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LIBRARY

OF THE

MASSACHUSETTS

AGRICULTURAL

COLLEGE

SOURCE- SF

221
A54
v,9

' 1673

A W"^'

DATE DUE

IT" I re, s T

ANNUAL REPORT^

Butter 3 Cheese Exchange

OF isTE^v^^ yoiik:.

TO WHICH IS APPENDED ITS

CHARTER AND BY-LAWS.

JylNTH ANNUAL REPORT

OF THE

American Dairymen's Association,

TRANSACTIONS AND ADDRESSES AT THE ANNUAL MEETING,

LIST OF MEMBERS, LIST OF FACTORIES,

FACTORY REPORTS, Etc.

Published under the Auspices of the Butter and Cheese Exchange.

18 7 4:.

L 37. 6 C

HEPOET

OF TfiE

BUTTER AND CHEESE EXCHANGE

In presenting its first Annual Report, the Butter and Cheese
Exchange of IMew York believes that none more important could be
issued from any similar institution in the United States. It represents
a new commercial organization which the natural laws of trade and
economy have, for a quarter of a century been forcing to a culmina-
tion, and which must inevitably be the nucleus of vast and powerful
influences that, through this or a similar proposition, are destined to
work a speedy revolution in the movements of merchandize in New
York. It represents, also, the American Dairymen's Association, one
of the first in prominence, and undoubtedly the first in usefulness of
all the Agricultural Societies in this country. To the President of
that Association, Hon. Horatio Seymour, the Exchange is indebted
for the suggestion that the reports of the two organizations should be
published together ; a suggestion which the Exchange hopes to carry
out regularly in the future, thus furnishing an annual document for
the dissemination and preservation of statistical and other informa-
tion pertaining to the leading branch of agriculture represented by
the two organizations, which will be invaluable to all connected there-
with. The Exchange regrets the absence from its own report of more
comprehensive statistical matter, but this omission, which will be
avoided in its future reports, is the less serious in the present instance
by reason of the completeness of the compilations accompanying the
report of the Dairymen's Association in the following images.

Although a year has elapsed since its organization, the Butter and
Cheese Exchange has been in practical operation only since Septem-
ber 10th, 1873, the date of the opening of its rooms for the transaction
of business. Yet in its infancy this institution represents through its
membership annually, more than one hundred millions of our com-

merce in agricultural products, and already numbers among its mem-
bers representatives of several steamship and railway lines, and of
prominent banking institutions. Daring its last session, the Legisla-
ture of the State granted the Exchange a most liberal charter, which
endows it with judiciary powers enjoyed by but one other Exchange
in New York, and which contains other provisions for the establish-
ment and government of an institution which shall be second in
strength to none in the country. The opposition of individual inter-
ests was such that the legislation sought by the Exchange, was likely
to be defeated by selfish influences, unless the significance and import-
ance of the movement were disguised under what was generally, though
fallaciously, regarded as a subordinate branch of the produce trade, at
, least so far as related to that trade as a leading element in the estab-
lishment of a general Exchans^ft. Foi* this reason the new organiza-
tion was called the "Butter and Cheese Exchange." The merchants
connected with this movement are engaged chiefly in the trade in dairy
products, and the original step was but the organization of this trade.
They are, however, also engaged largely in the traffic in bread-stuffs
and provisions, and, while the prominence which rightly belongs to
the dairy interest, and which through the influence of this organiza-
tion is now for the first time being accorded to it, will ever be pre-emi-
nent in this institution, yet it is intended under its charter to extend
it into a General Exchange, under such a comprehensive title as may
be adopted by all branches which may avail themselves of its advan-
tages.

This movement for the establishment of a general Commercial Ex-
change in the metropolis, found its origin in a vital necessity to its whole
commerce. Concurrent with the evidence that New York was not keep-
ing pace with the increase of the commerce of the country, in domes-
tic products, while Boston, Montreal, Baltimore, and other cities were
gaining, came the agitation of producers in the West for relief from the
burden of taxation on the movement of their crops to and through the
different markets. The transportation companies were attacked and
charged with the whole responsibility. A closer investigation, how-
ever, developed the most glaring evidence that this port, the chief
in exports and imports, both domestic and foreign, was tolerating the
most outrageous system of storage, exchange and transfer of agricul-
tural products that existed in America, and which was equivalent to a
prohibitory tax that must continue the diversion of this and other
branches of commerce, to ports affording more economical facilities.
It became apparent, further, that minor and individual interest were
solely responsible for this state of affairs, so thoroughly opposed to the
general interest. The speculative era that reigned and exhausted
itself in Wall street had extended to the Exchanges for breadstuffs and
provisions in New York and Chicago, and still continues to an extent
that renders the dealings so largely in contracts for delivery months
ahead, that it is hazardous for a western shipper outside of a clique to
risk a transaction in any leading commodity. The same is true of
merchants who supply consumers in a legitimate way in this market.
At the same time, " the produce trade of New York " has been repre-
sented in the market reports, throughout the press and by all other
departments of business as being mainly constituted of the flour and
grain trade. The staples of food are of the first necessity, and the
laws of the exchange and the distribution of them — the most sensitive

and confined to the law of economy — are the first in operation to enforce
themselves. An analysis of the produce trade of New York and the
nature of the staples constituting it, is essential in order to demonstrate
its controlling elements with reference to an Exchange, and to show
the fundamental and powerful influences that have led to the establish-
ment' and location of this institution. A view of the magnitude and
nature of the trade in dairy products alone, will demonstrate the
strength of the proposition.

The greatest progress ever made in any branch of agriculture has
been in the development of the staple products of the dairy. The
value of the entire production in the United States and Canada, is up-
wards of 500,000,000 dollars. It is important to note that the produc-
tion and traffic in butter is fully 800 per cent, greater than that in
cheese, and is the controlling element of the whole trade in dairy
products. It is being forcibly demonstrated that throughout all civi-
lized countries it is becoming better understood that these products
are the most natural, nutritious and economical of all articles of food.
More butter and cheese and less bread, is being consumed. Dairy
products require no expense of preparation for food, are concrete and
more economically transported than bread-stuffs. Corn in the Western
states given to milch cows yields a two-fold better result than by ship-
ment in its original state. The cost of transporting corn from Chicago
to New York has been 33c. per bushel. The cost of transporting butter
has been Ic. per lb. One bushel of corn fedsto cows yields two pounds
of butter, which is equal to sending corn to\New York at two cents
per bushel, leaving to the producers the profits of their industry, which
now are. corasumed in transporting the products of their labor. It is
proper to remark in this connection the wonderful improvement in the
manufacture of butter that has taken place during the past year in
the Western states bj" the introduction of the factory system. The re-
sult of this improvement has been that the prices current during the
past season has been about -JO per cent, higher than those of the previ-
ous year, and at these prices the crop has gone steadily into consump-
tion. The increasing importance of butter as a staple of food, is shown
by the fact that the average prices during the past year in all of the
markets of the world have ruled higher than ever before, and at the
same time foreign countries have taken, it is estimated, 225,000 pack-
ages ofAmerican butter during the year. This includes direct exports
from Canada, which are, in their bearing upon this question, the same
as if exported from New York, as Canada has been compelled, for years
jjast, to resort to American markets for the disposition of a portion of
her crop. New York is now the controlling market of the world for
both butter and cheese. The domestic trade in butter in this market
is, however, more than three times gi-eater in value than the total ex-
port trade in cheese, hence the leading influence of this branch of the
trade, in the matter of locating an exchange established, primarily, for
these products. The relative position of the two staples and the pre-
ponderance of the domestic trade is shown by the fact that the home
trade in butter is upwards of 200,000,000 dolhu's, while the total pro-
duction of cheese is represented by a valuation of 25,000,000 dollars and
the export trade in the latter commodity is from §10,000,000 to 6!l2,-
000,000. As butter is forcing its way into all countries and climates
more rapidly than cheese, the markets for dairy products are controlled

6

by the volume of its production. Confiuing the production of these
commodities to the present sources of supply, with the current export
and domestic demand for cheese a materially short crop of butter ini
the United States, would force foreign markets to an advance in this
staple proportionate with the deficiency in butter, since a scarcity of
the latter at once attracts milk from the manufacture of cheese. ' The
commerce on these products is, therefore, inseparable and can only be
properly regulated and conducted on the basis of their natural similar-
ity and the recognition of the fact that the pre^wnderance of capital
invested in the production of, and commerce in butter, together with
other powerful influences, render it the controlling power in the trade
in dairy products.

This comparison, setting forth the greater magnitude of the butter ■
trade as compared with cheese, is essential in order to promote the
great and growing interest of the manufacture of the latter, which has
been heretofore the most enterprising and the first in forming associa-
tions ; in the establishment of factories and the application of science and
skill, which has resulted in extraordinary strides of improvement.
This has justly given this branch of dairying the gi'eater prominence
in the interior, and the Dairymen's Association had its origin in the
heart of the cheese making section of the State of New York, where it
has revolutionized the system of manufacture, and is therefore the
prominent and leading feature of agriculture there, from the benefits
of which, lands have greatly enhanced in price. But throughout the
"Western states, where these associations and improvements are being
adopted, this increase should be encouraged by capital, for which there
is no safer or more profitable channel for investment. It is an im-
portant step in this direction to cause it to be more generally under-
stood that the production of butter and cheese and the commerce in
them are essentially one interest, and as relates to capital, that the pro-
duction of cheese should have for its support and encouragement, the ben-
efit of the powerful influence of the immensely greater capital invested
in the manufacture and trade in butter. Capital has been deterred
from entering into the production of cheese, by a misapprehension of
the relations of the trade in the New York market, where the chief
feature is in the export, a branch of the trade which was formerly and
is still, to a great extent, confined to a half dozen buyers for foreign ac-
count, operating on the Produce Exchange, and who also operate large-
ly in breadstuft's and provisions which, as a whole, makes an important
business and gives prominence to the merchants conducting it. But
this credit and influence has, heretofore, been accredited more to bread-
stuffs and provisions than to dairy products. In the eye of the public
the cheese trade proper was regarded as comparatively insignificant,,
while the still more important trade in butter had no representation at
all in the management and influences of the Produce Exchange, until
after the^establishment of the Butter and Cheese Exchange, which has-
tened a movement to have this interest recognized in the former insti-
tution. But it was too late. This position of affairs enabled the influ-
ences of the grain trade for a long time to define and limit the status
of the butter and cheese trade, disguise its importance and absorb from
it capital that would otherwise have been indirectly, to a greater
extent, invested in the more profitable pursuit of dairying'. The move-
ment of the merchants of this department of trade in organizing and
leading in the Exchange, reverses this order of things and will soon
realize the fullest advantages of it.

The entire vast tonnage of dairy products arriving in New York is
delivered on the piers of the Hudson, and from these piers is re-ship-
ped to both foreign and domestic markets. The same law of economy
that has fixed the termini o! all the steamships and railway companies
on the Hudson, has forced the localization of the butter and cheese
trade in this vicinity. Fully three-quarters of the merchants in the
trade are now located west of Broadway, while the remainder still clus-
ter around the Produce Exchange on the East Eiver, and are compel-
led to cart their produce an average distance of two or three miles from
the piers upon which it is landed, and after selling it for either foreign
or domestic markets, to return it the same distance for re-shipment.
Dairy products which are exchanged almost as economically and close-
ly as specie, will not bear this tax. The export and domestic trade in
cheese is undergoing a revolution under the operation of the factory
system, and is being forced rapidly to the basis of rigid economy. The
English markets are becoming Americanized, and the more uniform
quality of our dairy products has removed a prejudice that formerly exis-
ted abroad, and gave a wide range to prices and an irregular standard
of qualities that was taken advantage of by cunning operators, and led
to unsettled and unreliable reports and quotations, and did not, as a
whole, yield satisfactory results. The immediate tendency is to a cor-
rection of these evils "by the adoption of open and accurate market
reports to producers and consumers, and a just and economical commis-
sion to the merchant.

The assertion has come from prominent and influential sources,
that the necessity for the new Exchange did not exist, and that the
Produce Exchange already had all the facilities requisite for the con-
ducting of this trade. Since this assertion might mislead a large por-
tion of the public interested in, yet not throughly conversant with
the details of the commerce in domestic produce at this port, it is not
inappropriate to set forth in this report, a refutation of the argument
as opposed to the establishment of this Exchange.

As has already been shown almost the entire tonnage of do-
mestic produce lands at, and is shipped from the piers on the North
Eiver. Even the canal tonnage passes these wharves, and is eventu-
ally returned to them for foreign shipment, after making an expen-
sive and extended tour to the remote storehouses on the East Eiver.
In order to make available the facilities of the Produce Exchange, the
butter and cheese merchants must cart their goods, easily injured by
exposure to heat, an average distance of two or more miles to the
vicinity of that Exchange for storage and sale, and then, return them
for European, Eastern or Southern shipment. The export trade, from
this inconvenience, has suffered a needless tax, which if saved, would
be nearly equal to a just and reasonable profit to the trade. This
branch of the business has been conducted, heretofore, mainly by Eng-
lish merchants who had little interest in the economical movement of
produce, or in improved facilities for its exchange and transfer, and at
present have no interest in the immense domestic trade in butter,
which, as has been shown, governs both branches. These merchants
were naturally indifferent to the establishment of a new Exchange,
though nearly all of them have become members of this institution,
and will, beyond question, soon unite forcibly with the great majority
of merchants who conduct the immense domestic trade in these
staples, and centre around the Butter and Cheese Exchange. Economy

will rapidly enforce this concentration. The export trade in dairy
products and provisions, as well as breadstuflfs, is subordinate to the
domestic trade, being mainly an office business, like that of Insurance
and Exchange, which can, at trifling expense, accommodate itself
readily to the centres of trade in merchandize that is arbitrary and
bulky in nature, and cannot be economically transported any distance
merely for the purpose of storage and exchange. Butter, cheese and
provisions are especially of this nature, and all centre in the vicinity
of this Exchange. Transactions in these articles can only be effected
by actual inspections by the merchants, and, being articles of daily
consumption, they engage the attention of a greater number of mer-
chants than any other lines of produce. It may be safely estimated
that more than 2,000 merchants are compelled to visit this centre of
business daily, to make transactions in these articles alone, who at the
same time require supplies of flour and grain, which is arriving and in
store in vast amounts in the immediate vicinity, but owing to the fact
that there has been no Exchange convenient for the offering of sam-
ples, buyers and sellers alike have been compelled to travel to and
from the Produce Exchange, some two miles distant, to consummate
transactions. When two or three of the leading flour and grain mer-
chants shall recognize this irregularity, and place their samples on the
new Exchange, a practical step toward reform will have been taken.
This can be accomplished at a very trifling expense to the receiver,
. and instead of a tax on the time of 3,000 merchants of a two or three
mile journey each day, the few leading grain receivers on the East
side, united with the numerous receivers located in the vicinity of this
Exchange, would consolidate and economize the movement of a vast
amount of produce.

The result of concentrating the trade in dairy and kindred products,
together with sample goods of all descriptions, would lead at once to
the establishment of branch or main office business in Insurance, Ex-
change and Freights convenient to all the vast commerce at this centre
of railway and steamship traffic, and other immense interests located
upon the piers of the Hudson, and surrounding the Butter and Cheese
Exchange. It would also be a recognition of the final settlement of a
question that has, by natural laws of trade, settled itself — namely, the
centre of exchange for agricultural products in New York. This ac-
complished, and new improvements in local terminal facilities would
at once be forced, and a blighting tax removed from our whole com-
merce. The pressure for cheap transportation in New York, and
throughout the country, the diversion of our grain trade, and the
clamor for improved terminal facilities are arousing the merchants of
New York to action, and the organization of the Butter and Cheese
Exchange will soon be more generally recognized as a most important,
and the first practical step toward a remedy of these causes of
complaint.

The magnitude and importance of the trade in Dairy Products, as
compared with that in Breadstufi's, Provisions, and other articles, is
aptly illustrated by the detailed estimate of family expenditures, given
by a Boston economist, who shows, by a careful calculation, that the
proportion of expenditures in the average family is as follows : Dairy
products, |y5 ; Flour and meal, $25 ; Groceries, 147. Thus it Vill be
seen that in the commerce in agricultural products, those of the dairy
hold a leading position, and this trade is, therefore, properly the chief

9

element iu carrying out the proposition of an Exchange. In connec-
tion with it, too, there is an immense agricultural interest," Avith an in-
fluence and power exceeding that of any other department of business.
The co-operation of the American Dairymen's Association, and local
organizations of a similar character now forming in the Western
States with this Exchange, furnishes the first instance of the practical
co-operation of agricultural and commercial interests, and forms the
most powerful constituency that could exist for the organization and
carrying out of the purposes of an Exchange for all brauches of busi-
ness, and in which the interests aud rights of agriculturists in com-
merce could be represented and protected. The Butter and Cheese
Exchange is open, under its Charter, to representatives of all branches
of trade in K^ew York, and throughout the country. Its initiation
fee is only twenty-five dollars, Avhich places its beuefitd within
the reach of all branches, and affords the dairying and other agri-
cultural interests of the United States and Canada, an opportunity
to gain a representation in this metropolis, for the protection of their
own interest. The one thousand dollar initiation fee of the Produce
Exchange, necessarily prohibits a general membership of all merchants,
and consequently hinders the growth of an institution of this kind
which should, by low fees, concentrate within itself a large and com-
plete representation of all trades, aud which would honor New i'ork
city, and be a credit to her commerce.

The Exchange acknowledges the early recognition of its importance
by the Hon. Horatio Seymour, President of the American Dairymen's
Association, his Excellency Gov. Dix, the Hon. Wm. F. Havermeyer,
Mayor of New York, Hon. Thomas Eaines, State Treasurer, Hon.
Erastus Brooks, Hon. Reuben E. Fenton, and other distinguished
men, and their subsequent efibrts in behalf of the enterprise. Its ac-
knowledgments are esi:)ecially dne to the Governor and the Legislature
of Xew York for the prompt passage of the Charter bill, which, to the
commerce of New York, is the most important act of its session. This
Charter is a standing protection to our trade in agricultural products.
It protects it from monopoly in the exchange of these products which,
from a false policy of limited individual interest, has retarded im-
provements in our facilites for the economical storage and transfer of
merchandize, and by exorbitant fees has restricted the benefits of the
existing facilities to the po^verful few, to whom the far greater aggre-
gate interests of tlie majority are subservient. It opens the door to the
agricultural for co-operation with the commercial interests for mutual
benefit, and lays the foundation for such aninstitution as the metropolis
has long required. Senators Jacobs and Fox, Gov. Alvord and others,
are entitled to the thanks of the Exchange for their eloquent advocacy
and support of the bill, which was subjected to the closest scrutiny
during its passage, and was opposed strongly under the plea of "special
legislation," from which aroS3 one of the most severe contests of the
session. It is to the credit of the Governor and Legislature, however,
that it finally passed with more unanimity than any other bill oflered.

OFFICE RS

BUTTER AND CHEESE EXCHANGE,

011" NB^-W YORK,

IT'OPS. 1873-74r

PRESIDENT :

WALTER S. FAIRFIELD.

First,
Second,
Third,
Fourth,

TIOE PEESIDENTS :

JOEL D. HUNTER.

- JNO. M. WEBB.
M. FOLSOM.

- R. S. DOTY.

TEEASXTKEE :

HENRY N. MORGAN.

SECEETAEY :

J. M. PETERS.

EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE :

WALTER S. FAIRFIELD, Chairman.

JOEL D. HUNTER. M. FOLSOM.

H. ARMSTRONG. " RUFUS L. COLE.

A. C. LITTELL. W. WINSOR.

OHi^RTER

OF THE

BUTTER AND CHEESE EXCHANGE

OF XEW YORK.

Section 1. The members of the Butter and Cheese Exchange of
NcAv York, of which Walter S. Fairfield is President, and Joel D. Hun-
ter, John M. Webb, Mancelia Folsom, and R. S. Doty are vice-
presidents, and Henry N. Morgan, treasurer, and all persons who shall
hereafter be associated with them under the provisions of this act, are
hereby created a body corporate under the name of The Butter and
Cheese Exchange of ISew York. The said corporation shall have per-
petual succession, with power to sue and be sued, to make and use a
common seal, and alter same at pleasure.

Sec, 2. The objects of said corporation shall be to provide and reg-
ulate a suitable room or rooms for an Exchange in the city of New
York; to foster trade; to protect it against unjust or unlawful exac-
tions ; to reform abuses ; to diffuse accurate and reliable information ;
to settle differences between members, and to promote among thtm
good fellowship, and a more enlarged and friendly intercourse. The
said corporation shall have power to make and adopt a constitution,
by-laws, rules and regulations for the admission, government, suspen-
sion, and expulsion of its members ; the collection of fees and dues ;
the number and election of its ofiicers, and to define their duties for
the safe-keeping of its property and management of its affairs, and,
from time to time, alter, modify, and change such constitution, by-
laws, rules and regulations, provided the same be not contrary to the
laws of the State of New York, or of the United States.

.,Sec. 3. Said corporation shall have power to acquire, by lease or
purchase, a suitable building, library and furniture, for the use of the
corporation; to borrow money for such purposes, and issue bonds
therefor, and to secure the same by mortgage ; and generally to ac-
quire and take by gift, purchase, devise and bequest, subject to the

12

provisions of the law relating to devises and bequests, by last will and
testament, or otherwise, real and personal property to an amount not
exceeding five hundred thousand dollars ; and to hold, sell, convey,
lease and mortgage the same, or any part of such real and personal
property, as may be necessary for the objects and carrying into effect
the purposes of such corporation.

Sec. 4. The property, affairs, business and concerns of the corpora-
tion hereby created shall be managed by the president, the four vice-
presidents, the treasurer and nine members of the Exchange, who, to-
gether, shall constitute an executive committee, to be elected annually
at such time and place as may be provided by the by-laws ; and the
present officers of said Exchange, at the time of the passage of this
act, shall continue to hold their respective offices as officers of this
corporation, with the powers and duties prescribed therein by the con-
stitution and by-laws of said Exchange, until their present term of
office shall expire and their successors be elected and insti,illed, and in
ease of any previous vacancy among such officers it shall be filled in
the manner prescribed by the constitution and by-laws already adopted
by said Exchange, or as the same may, in conformity therewith, be
altered or amended by this corporation ; and the present constitution
and by-laws of said Exchange shall be the constitution and by-laws of
said corporation, until so amended or altered by said corporation.
All vacancies which may occur in the said executive committee, by
death, resignation or otherwise, shall be filled by said executive com-
mittee, and a majority of the members of such executive committee
shall constitute a quorum for the transaction of business.

Sec. 5. The executive committee shall annually elect by ballot,
eight members of the Exchange, who shall not be members of the
executive committee, and appoint four members of the executive com-
mittee, who, together, shall constitute a committee of twelve, to be
known and styled the committee of arbitration of the Butter and
Cheese Exchange of New York. The members so elected and ap-
pointed shall thereupon classify themselves byjot into four classes, of
three members each, in such manner that each class shall have one of
the four members appointed by the executive committee, who shall be
chairman of such class, and each class so designated shall constitute a
quarterly committee of arbitration, to serve at such times as provided
by the by-laws already adopted by said exchange, or as the same may
be altered or amended by this corporation. The executive committee
may, at any time, fill any vacancy or vacancies that may occur in said
committee, for the remainder of the term in which the same shall
happen.

Sec. 6. It shall be the duty of said quarterly committee of arbitra-
tion to hear and decide, at the earliest moment, any controversy
which may arise between the members of the said corporation, or any
person acting by, through, or under them, and as may be voluntarily
submitted to said quarterly committee for arbitration ; and such
members and persons may, by an instrument in writing, signed by
them and attested by a subscribing witness, agree to« submit to the
decision of such committee, any such controversy, which might be the
subject of an action at law or in equity, except claims of title to real
estate or to any interest therein, and that a judgment of the Supreme
Court shall be rendered upon the award made pursuant to such sub-
mission.

13

Sec. 7. Such quarterly committee of arbitration shall hare power to
appoint a time and place of hearing of any such controversy, and ad-
journ the same from time to time, as may be necessary, not beyond
the day fixed in the by-laws for rendering their award, except by con-
sent of parties ; to is"sue subpcenaes for the attendance of witnesses
residing or being within the counties of New York, Richmond and
Kings. All the provisions contained in title fourteen, part third,
chapter eight of the He vised Statutes, and all acts amendatory or in
substitution thereof, relating to issuing attachments to compel the at-
tendance of witnesses, shall apply to proceedings had before the said
arbitration committee ; witnesses so subpoenaed as aforesaid, shall be en-
titled to the fees prescribed by law for witnesses in the Courts of
Record in this State.

Sec. 8. It shall not be competent for any number less than the full
number of said quarterly committee, to hear the proofs and allegations
of the parties, and an award by a majority of said quarterly committee
shall be deemed the award of the committee of arbitration, and shall
be valid and binding on the parties thereto. Such award shall be
made in writing, subscribed by the members of the committee concur-
ring therein, and attested by a subscribing witness. Upon filing the
submission and award in the office of the clerk of the Supreme Court
of the city and county of New York, both duly acknowledged or
proved in the same manner as deeds are required to be acknow^ledged
or proved in order to be recorded, a judgment may be entered therein
according to the award, and shall be docketed, transcripts filed, and
execution issued thereon, the same as authorized by law in regard to
judgment in the supreme court. Judgments entered in conformity
with such award shall not be subject to be removed, reversed, modi-
fied, or in any manner appealed from by the parties thereto, except for
frauds, collusion, or corruption of said committee of arbitration, or
some member thereof.

Sec. 9. This act shall take effect immediately.

BY-L^'WS.

Hevised and. AiTLended. Adopted, April 15, 1874r.
to tal^e effect June 3, 1874t.

ARTICLE L

TITLE.

Sec* 1. This Association sliallbe called and known as " The ButTee
AND Cheese Exchange of New York.

ARTICLE IL

objects.

Sec. 1. The objects of this Association shall be to provide and regu-
late a suitable room or rooms for an Exchange in the city of New
York; to foster] trade ; to protect it against unjust and unlawful
exactions; to reform abuses ; to diffuse accurate and reliable informa-
tion ; to settle differences between members, and to promote among
them good fellowship and a more enlarged and friendly intercourse.

ARTICLE III.

members.

Sec. 1. Applicants for membership must bear a good mercantile
character. Their application, stating the nature of their businessj
must be presented by one member, seconded by another, and subse-^
quently remain conspicuously posted in the Exchange for two weeks
before final action is taken upon it by the Executive Committee, by
whom the application may be approved or rejected, at their discretion :
if approved the applicant will subscribe to the charter, by-laWs, and
rules of the Exchange, and agree to abide by all amendments thereto,
and pay an initiation fee of $25, or present a duly transferred certifi^
Gate of membership, When he shall become a member.
Sec. 2. Every regular member shall pay annually in advance a fee

15

of twenty-five dollars ; but one-half of tliis amount shall be remitted
dn members joining during the last six months of the year.

Sec. 3. Every person who shall be elected a member of this Ex-
change shall be furnished with a card of admission to the rooms of the
Exchange after paying his dues, and shall be entitled to receive a prop-
erly engraved certificate of his membership, duly executed by the sig-
natures of the President and Secretary and bearing the corporate seal,
which certificate shall be transferable upon the books of the Exchange,
to any person eligible to membership, upon payment of all unpaid
assessments thereon, anda transfer fee of live dollars. The certificate
of a deceased member may be transferred by his legal representatives.

Sec. 4. No persons except members or the partner of a member shall
be admitted on the floor of the Exchange for the purposes of business.

Sec. 5. Honorary members of the Exchange, may be elected at any
meeting of the Exchange, on the nomination of the Executive Com-
mittee. They shall be entitled to all the privileges of regular mem-
bers, except the right to vote. And they shall be exempt from the
payment of any dues.

ARTICLE IV.

ANNUAL election.

Sec. 1. The annual meeting for the election of officers shall be
held on the first Wednesday in June, except when that day shall be a
holiday, in which case it shall be held on the preceding Tuesday. A
majority of all the votes cast shall be necessary to a choice. The polla
shall be kept open on the day of the annual election from 12 o'clock
noon untill 2. p. m., and the Inspectors of Election shall make such
arrangements as shall best facilitate the prompt dispatch of the Election
and afford every member an opportunity to vote.

Sec. 2. Every member of the Exchange who shall hold in his ot/u
name a certificate or card of membership upon which all fees and
assessments have been paid, and who has performed all other oblio-ations
incumbent upon him as a member of the Exchange, shall be entitled
to vote.

ARTICLE V.
inspectors of election.

Sec. 1. At each annual election there shall be elected by ballot
three Inspectors of Election, who, before entering upon the duties of
their office, shall be required to severally take or subscribe to the fol-
lowing oath or affirmation :

" I, A B, do solemnly swear (or affirm) that I will execute the duties of au In-
spector of Election for this Exchange, with strict impartiality, and according to
the best of my ability." *

Sec. 2. It shall be the duty of the Inspectors of Election to receive
the votes at each and every election, to canvass them immeduitely after
each election, and make a return thereof to the President and a'dupli-
cate to the Secretary (who shall at once post it in the Exchange) and
to send a certificate of election to each of those members who may be
elected to office.

16

Sec. 3. The President, or, in his absence, the remaining Inspectors
present, shall have power to fill any vacancies that may occur amon^
the Inspectors of Election, either by death, resignation or failure to
elect or appear at any election.

ARTICLE VI.

EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE.

Sec. 1. The property, afiairs, business and concerns of the Exchange
shall be vested in an Executive Committee consisting of the Presi-
dent, four Vice-Presidents, Treasurer and nine members of the Ex-
change, who shall be elected in the manner provided in the Charter
and By-Laws, and be subject only to the provisions thereof. The
members of the said Committee shall enter upon the performance of
their duties on the first Monday succeeding their election, and shall
continue in office until the first Monday following the election of their
successors. Any vacancies that may occur in the Committee by death,
resignation, or otherwise, may be filled by themselves. They shall not
receive pay for their services, except when acting as members of com-
mittees, or as hereinafter provided.

Sec. 2. The Executive Committee shall provide and regulate suita-
ble rooms for an Exchange, and cause them to be supplied with news-
papers, market reports, telegraphic and statistical information, and
do such other proper and needful things as in their judgment will tend
to promote the usefulness of the Exchange, and carry out the purposes
of the Charter. They shall appoint such Clerks, Attorneys, Counsel,
and other agents, as they shall deem necessary to protect the interests
.of the Exchange and of its membersj shall fix the compensation for
their services, and may, in their discretion, require from any such
appointees a good and suflicient bona, to be executed and made payable
to the President and his successors in office, for the faithful perfor-
mance of their duties.

Sec. 3. Kegular meetings of the Executive Committee shall be held
on the first Tuesday of each month, except when those days shall fall
upon a holiday, in which event it shall be held on the preceding Mon-
day; but the President may, when he deems it necessary,' or, at the re-
quest of three members of the Committee, call special meetings
of the Executive Committee. At all meetings of the Executive Com-
mittee,[eight members siiall constitute a quorum for the transaction of
business.

Sec. 4. At all meetings of the Executive Committee the following
order of business shall be observed, and no business shall be taken up
out of the regular order except by unanimous consent.

1. Calling the roll of members"

2. Reading the minutes of the preceding meeting.

3. Eeport of the Treasurer.

4. Eeports of Standing Committees.
0. Reports of Special Committees.

6. Unfinished Business.

7. Miscellaneous Business.

Sec. 5. If any member of the Executive Committee shall absent
himself from two (2) consecutive regular meetings of the Committee,

17

without having been previously excused, or without sending a commu-
nication to the President stating liis reason for so doing, or communi-
cating a resignation of his office, his seat in the Committee may be
declared vacant.

Sec. 6. No officer or member of the Executive Committee shall
contract any debt on behalf of the Exchange, or in any manner or to
any extent render the Corporation liable for the payment of any sum,
unless the same shall first have been directed by the Executive
Committee.

Sec. 7. The Executive Committee shall not buy, sell or exchange
any real estate in the name of this corporation, issue any bonds of
indebtedness against the Exchange, or change the location of the place
of meeting without the approval of the Exchange, obtained at either a
regular meeting or a special meeting called for the purpose, and a two-
thirds vote of the members present shall be necessary to approve.

Sec. 8. Should the Executive Committee make any rules or regula-
tions not in conformity with the spirit of the Charter and By-Laws,
or should they order anything to be done that meets with the disap-
proval of the membership generally, the President, or, in his absence,
one of the Vice-Presidents, shall — at the request of fifty members —
call a special meeting to consider the matter, and should two-thirds of
those present and voting disapprove of the acts of the Executive
Committee, the said acts, rules, regulations, or orders, shall be declared
null and void by the President, and referred back to the said Com-
mittee, and ordered repealed. The Secretary must give each member
ten days previous notice in writing of such special meeting, and the
said notice must state the nature of the business to be transacted, and
one hundred members shall be necessary to form a quorum for this
special meeting.

ARTICLE VIL

committees.

Sec. 1. At the first meeting of the Executive Committee, after their
election, the President shall, subject to their approval, make the fol-
lowing appointments, viz. :

1. A Secretary, who shall also be secretary of the Exchange, but
shall not be a member of the Exchange, and who shall hold office
during the 2)leasure of the Committee.

2. A Finance Committee, to consist of three members of the Execu-
tive Committee.

3. A Law Committee, to consist of three members of the Executive
Committee.

4. A Committee on Rooms, Property and Membership, to consist of
three members of the Executive Committee.

5. A Complaint Committee, to consist of three members of the Ex-
ecutive Committee. One member of this Committee shall retire at
each regular meeting of the Executive Committee, and the President
shall thereupon appoint another member of the Executive Committee
in his place.

G. A Committee on Trade, Information and Stati.sties, to consist of
three members of the Executive Committee.
2

18

These several Committees shall hold office at the pleasure of the
Executive Committee, and perform such duties as may be necessarily
incident to the purposes of their appointment, as hereinafter prescribed,
and such as may be required of them from time to time by the Execu-
tive Commitee. t -^^r^r^-fr,^ ;:::':/:. :'^

Sec. 2. Special Committees, and all Committees required [by^Jthe
Eules and Eegulations made by the Executive Committee for the gov-
ernment of the different branches of trade carried on by the members
of the Exchange, shall be appointed by the President, subject to the
approval of the Executive Committee, unless directed to be chosen
by ballot, and shall consist of such number as may be ordered|at the
time of their appointment, or provided in the Eules and Eegulations
before mentioned.

Sec. 3. Eeports of Committees shall be made in writing to the Ex-
ecutive Committee, and signed by a majority of the members thereof.
Minority reports may, however, be submitted. A majority of any
Standing or Special Committee shall constitute a quorum forHhe
transaction of business, and a majority decision of such quorum shall
be valid. Vacancies that occur in any of the Committees shall be
filled in the same manner that such Committee was originally formed.

AETICLE VIII.

DUTIES OF OFFICERS.

Sec. 1. The President shall preside at the meetings of the Exchange
and of the Executive Committee, and shall be a member ex officio of
all Committees (except the Arbitration Committee). He shall, also,
at the annual meeting of the members of the Exchange, and at such
other times as he shall deem proper, communicate to the Exchange, or to
the Executive Committee, such matters, and make such suggestions,
as may, in his opinion, tend to promote the prosperity and welfare and
increase the usefulness of the Exchange, and shall perform such other
duties as are necessarily incident to the office of President of the Ex-
change.

Sec. 3. In case of the death or absence of the President, or of his
inability from any cause to act, the First Vice-President shall perform
the duties of the President ; and in case of the absence of both Presi-
dent and First Vice-President, then the next Vice-President in the
order ol seniority shall perform the duties of the President ^for the
time being.

Sec. 3. The Secretary shall hold office during the pleasure of the
Executive Committee, and shall keep a record of the proceedings of
the Executive Committee, and of all meetings of the members of the
Exchange, and shall immediately post conspicuously upon the bulle-
tins of the Exchange, all reports from the Inspectors of Election, and
shall, under the direction of the Executive Committee, take charge of
the details of the work of that Committee, and of the various stand-
ing and special committees thereof, keeping and preserving in an or-
derly and systematic manner all the books and documents of the Ex-
change, so that they shall at all times be accessible and convenient for
reference. He shall collect and pay over to the Treasurer all moneys
due the Exchange. He shall have charge of the Exchange building.

19

and all other buildings and rooms which are or may hereafter be oc-
cupied by the Exchange, and shall cause them to be supplied with
necessary stationery, and to be properly heated, cleaned, ventilated,
and kept in order and repair. He shall have charge of the bulletins of
the Exchange, and shall cause all information, statistics, and notices
pertaining to the business of the Exchange to be posted thereon in a
correct, neat, and orderly manner. He shall, with the advice and con-
sent of the Executive Committee, appoint such assistants as he may
deem requisite and necessary to aid him in the performance of his
duties ; and, with a view to the greatest economy consistent with
efficient service, shall organize them in separate departments, for the
]n-oper working of each and all of which he shall be held responsible.
He shall report fully in writing to the Executive Committee each reg-
ular meeting thereof, and shall perform such other duties incident to his
office as may, from time to time, be required of him by the Executive
Committee.

Sy.c. 4. The Treasurer shall receive all sums due to the Exchange,
and under the direction of the Executive Committee shall invest, de-
posit, and disburse the same. He shall not pay out any of the funds
of the Exchange unless authorized by the Executive Committee, under
the direction of the Finance Committee. All disbursements shall be
made by checks signed by the Treasurer and countersigned by the
President. He shall keep regular books of accounts, and carefully pre-
serve all vouchers for the payment of money, and all bonds and secur-
ities of every kind belonging to the Exchange. He shall render a
monthly account at each regular meeting of the Executive Committee,
and an annual report to the Exchange at the annual meeting thereof,
all of which reports shall be audited and approved by the Finance
Committee before presentation. The funds, books, vouchers, and se-
curities in his hands shall at all times be under the supervision of the
Executive Committee, and subject to its inspection and control. He
shall have custody of the corporate seal, and shall, with two sufficient
.sureties approved by the Executive Committee, execute a bond to the
Exchange in a penal sum to be fixed by the Executive Committee for
the faithful performance of his duties ; and at the expiration of his
term of office shall transfer all funds, books, papers, and other proper-
ty of the Exchange in his possession to his successor, and his compen-
sation shall be fixed by the Executive Committee.

ARTICLE IX.

ARBITRATION COMMITTEE.

Sec. 1. The Executive Committee shall, as soon as practicable after
its organization, elect by ballot eight members of the Exchange who
shall not be members of the Executive Committee, and appoint four
members of the Executive Committee who together shall constitute the
Arbitration Committee, and who shall hold office until the election
of their successors. A majority of the whole Executive Committee
shall be necessary to constitute a choice, and the various branches of
business transacted in the Exchange shall, as far as practicable, be
represented in said Committee.

The members so elected and appointed shall thereupon proceed
to classify themselves by lot into four classes of three members each,

20

in such manner that each class shall have one of the four members
appointed by the Executive Committee, who shall be chairman of such
class, and each class so designated shall constitute a quarterly Com-
mittee of Arbitration to serve at such times as provided by these by-
laws. The Secretary, either in person or by clerk, shall act as clerk
for such quarterly committee.

Before entering upon the duties of their office the members of said
committee shall be required to take, or subscribe to, the following oath
or affirmation, viz :

You do severally swear that you respectively will faithfully and fairly hear and
examine the matters in controversy which may come before you during your ten-
ure in office, and to make a just award therein according to the best of your un-
derstanding, so help you God.

Sec. 3. All persons who may desire the services of the Arbitration
Committee shall file with the Secretary of the Exchange an agreement
in writing to submit their case to the Committee, and to be bound by
its decision, which agreement shall be signed by the parties thereto,
and attested by a subscribing witness. On the filing of such agree-
ment the Secretary shall call a meeting of the Committee, to be held
as soon thereafter as may be convenient to the parties concerned, to
hear and decide such controversy. The Committee shall have poAver
to adjourn the hearing of any case from time to time as circumstances
may require. All awards by said Committee shall be rendered in con-
formity with Sections 5, 6, 7, and 8, of the Charter.

Sec. 3. The proceedings of the Arbitration Committee shall be
recorded in a book to be kept for that purpose, in which shall be enter-
ed a summary of each controversy submitted for the decision of the
Committee, the award made thereon, and the grounds for such award.
Said book shall be the property of the Exchange, and subject to the
inspection of its members, on application to the Secretary.

Each member of the Arbitration Committee who shall be present at
the hearing of any case shall be entitled to a fee of five dollars for
each sitting, to be paid by the party against whom the decision shall
be rendered, except in such cases as the Committee, at their discretion,
shall otherwise order. '

ARTICLE X.

COMPLAINT COMMITTEE.

Sec. 1. Any member of the Exchange who shall be accused of wilful
violation of the Charter or By-LaAvs, or of fraudulent breach of con-
tract, or of any proceeding inconsistent with just and equitable princi-
ples of trade, or of other misconduct, shall, on complaint, be sum-
moned before the Complaint Committee, when, if he desire, he shall be
heard in his defense. Should the Committee be unable to conciliate
the di&i)utants, or induce them to arbitrate, and the circumstances
seem to Avarraut, the complaint shall be referred to the Executive Com-
mittee, when both plaintiff and defendant shall have an opportunity to
be heard again in person, prior to final action in the case ; and if, in
the opinion of the Committee, the charge or charges against said defen-
dant be substantiated, it may, by a vote of not less than two-thirds of
all the members present, either censure, suspend, or expel him from
the Exchange.

21

All complaints which maybe made against members of the Exchange
shall be made in writing and addressed to the Chairman of the Com-
plaint Committee, who shall cause a copy thereof to be transmitted to
the member against whom the complaint shall have been entered, pre-
vious to his being summoned to appear before said Committee, as pro-
vided for in this section.

Six dollars shall be paid to the Committee by the complainant at
the time of filing his complaint, which sum shall be equally divided
among the members of the Committee who shall take part in the hear-
ing.

Sec. 2. To reinstate an expelled member it shall require the affirma-
tive vote of three-fourths of all the members of the Executive Com-
mittee present and voting at the meeting at Avhicli the application for
such reinstatement shall be acted upon ; but a suspended member may
l^e reinstated by a majority vote at any meeting of the Executive Com-
mittee.

AETICLE XL

FIXANCE COMMITTEE.

Sec. 1. The Finance Committee shall audit all bills or claims against
the Exchange, shall direct all payments, deposits, and investments
authorized by the Executive Committee, shall audit the accounts of the
Treasurer monthly, and also his annual account.

AETICLE XIL

LAAV COMMITTEE.

Sec. 1. The Law Committee shall have charge of all Legislation
that may be required by the Exchange, including the presentation of
Memorials to the State Legislature, to the City, or to the General
(Tovernment. They shall nominate to the Executive Committee for
their approval suitable Counsel to represent and protect the interests
of the Exchange in any suits at law that may nrise, or for the exam-
ination of titles to Real Estate of which the Exchange may become
possessed. Any Amendment proposed to the Charter and By-Laws
shall be submitted to them for their consideration, and they shall re-
port on the same to the Executive Committee.

ARTICLE XIIL

COMMITTEE OX ROOMS, PROPERTY AND MEMBERSHIP.

Sec. 1. The Committee on Rooms, Property, and Membershij), shall
have supervision over the real estate of the Exchange, see that the
same is kept in proper repair and preservation, and attend to the pur-
chase of all necessary supplies. They shall have a general supervision
over the rooms used by the Exchange during Change hours, see that
proper order is kept, and that no unauthorized persons are admitted

22

on the floors of the Exchange. All applications for membership to
the Excliange shall be referred to them, and they shall report on the
same to the Execntive Committee for their action.

AETICLE XIV.

COMMITTEE OK TRADE, IKFORMATION" AND STATISTICS.

Sec. 1. The Committee on Trade, Information and Statistics shall,
unless otherwise directed, have charge of all matters pertaining to
supply of newspapers, market reports, telegraphic and statistical
information for the use of the Exchange ; and it shall be the duty
of said Committee to organize plans for obtaining regularly, and
at the earliest moment, such reliable information as may affect
the value of articles dealt in by the Exchange. They shall organize
and maintain a system for recording, in books to be provided for
the purpose, such statistics of the movement and prices of Pro-
duce at this and other points as may be of interest to the members of
this Exchange, or may have any bearing on the question of transpor-
tation as identified with the interests of our city and State ; and they
shall consider, and from time to time report to the Executive Com-
mittee, for its action, such rules and regulations as to the purchase,
sale, transportation, and custody of articles of Produce, as they may
consider would be beneficial to the interests of the members of the
Exchange. They shall, so far as practicable, establish relations with
similar associations at leading commercial points in our own and other
countries, to the end that uniformity of practice and usage may be
attained in all matters of common interest.

ARTICLE XV.

EXPENSES AND LIABILITIES.

Sec. 1. All necessary expenses and liabilities that may be incurred
with the approval of the Executive Committee, shall also be binding
on the whole membership of the Exchange, so far as to warrant the
Exchange in paying them from the Treasury, and if there be not
sufficient funds on hand applicable for the purpose, the Executive
Committee shall have power to assess each member pro rata, and to
collect such assessment at once; and any member defaulting after five
days' notice to pay, may be suspended from membership until the
same be paid, provided, however, that no such assessment exceeding
five dollars per member shall be levied, and this not to exceed twice in
one year, without the consent of the membership, said consent to be
obtained by ballot. At the taking of such ballot, a majority of votes
cast shall be considered as expressing the decision of the membership.
The vote shall be received at such time as may be appointed by the
Executive Committee.

ARTICLE XVL

KESIGNATIONS.

Sec. 1. Any member wishing to resign from the Exchange shall
present his resignation, in writing, to the President, by whom it shall

23

be referred to the Executive Committee, who shall have power to ac-
cept or reject such resignation.

Sec. 2. Members of Standing Committees, wishing to resign, shall
present their resignation, in writing, to the Chairman of their respec-
tive Committees, (stating their reasons therefor,) by whom it shall be
referred to the Executive Committee, who shall have power to accept
or reject such resignation.

ARTICLE XVII.

PENALTIES FOR NOX-PAYMENT OF DUES.

Sec. I. Any member who shall neglect, after due notice, to pay
dues for a period of more than three months, shall be deemed to have
resigned^ and the Executive Committee may, at its discretion, either
suspend the privilege of such member, or strike his name from the
rolls.

ARTICLE XVin.

MEETINGS OF THE EXCHAKGE.

Slc. 1. The Annual Meeting of the members of the Exchange shall
be held at their rooms, on the last Tuesday in IMay, (excepting when
that day shall fall upon a holiday, when it shall be held on the pre-
ceding Monday), at three o'clock r. m., (of which at least one week's
previous notice shall be given by the President), for the purpose of
receiving tiie reports of the Executive Committee and the Treasurer,
and for the transaction of such other business connected with the
affairs of the Exchange as may be presented for consideration.

Sec. 2. The President may and upon the written request of a majority
of the Executive Committee, or twenty-five members of tlie Exchange,
shall call special meetings of the members of the Exchange, for the
transaction of business directly connected with the afliiirs of the
Exchange, of which at least twenty-four hours' notice shall be
given by the President, Such notice shall state explicitly the object
of such meeting, and at such meeting such business only shall be
transacted as shall have been mentioned in the call. Meetings for
other important purposes may be called by the President upon the
written request of a majority of the Executive Committee, similar
notice being given and observed.

Sec. 3. At all meetings of the members of the Exchange, twenty-
five members present shall constitute a quorum for the transaction of
business, and a less number shall have power to adjourn to a future
time, which time shall be stated.

ARTICLE XIX.

BXCHANGK OPEN.

Sec. 1. Tlie Exchange shall be open for business daily, except Sun-
days and legal holidays, during such hours aud under such rules and
regulations as the Executive Committee may establish ; but the

24

Exchange may adjourn for one day at any one time, by a vote of three-
fourths of the members present at a meeting of the Exchange called
for that purpose, as provided for in Article XVIII, Sec. 2.

ARTICLE XX.

NOTICES.

Sec. ]. Notices of meetings of the Exchange, and of all other mat-
ters intended for the information of members, shall be given by post-
ing the same conspicuously on the bulletin boards of the Exchange ;
and no notices shall be posted upon the bulletin boards of the
Exchange, except such as relate to the affairs of the association,
unless by the consent of the Floor Committee.

ARTICLE XXL

VISITORS.

Sec. 1. No person except members shall be admitted on the floor of
the Exchange for purposes of business. Members, however, may intro-
duce their friends as visitors, by entering their respective names in a
book to be kept for that purpose, and may obtain for such visitors a
card of admission for seven consecutive days in each current year.
This privilege shall not be extended, except with consent of the Floor
Committee ; and should any person so introduced violate the rule ol
the Exchange by the transaction of business, the member introducing
sucli person shall become liable to pay a fine not less than twenty-five
dollars, nor more than fifty dollars, for each offence, at the discretion
of the Executive Committee, and be subject to the same penalty for
non-payment as provided for in Article XVII.

ARTICLE XXII.

RULES.

Sec. 1. All rules adopted by the Executive Committee shall, after
having been posted on the bulletin of the Exchange ten days, be in
force and binding on the members ; and the rules in force shall govern
all cases to which they may be applicable, provided they do not con-
flict with any specific provisions of a contract.

Sec. 2. Any of the several branches of Trade that do business on
the Exchange may make their own rules and regulations governing
their own line of trade, subject to the consent and approval of the
Executive Committee.

ARTICLE XXIIL

APPROPRIATfONS.

Sec. 1. There shall be no appropriation of money voted, either by
the Executive Committee or by the Exchange, except for strictly
legitimate business of the Exchange.

25
ABTICLE XXIV.

AMENDMENTS TO THE BY-LAWS.

Sec. 1. These By-Laws shall not be altered nor amended except by
a vote of two-thirds of the Executive Committee, and such alterations
or amendments shall not take effect until ratified by a vote of two-
thirds of all the members present and voting at a meeting of the
Exchange called for tliat purpose, of which ten days' notice shall be
given by posting it conspicuously in the Exchange, and it shall state
the proposed alteration.

ARTICLE XXV.

OTHER LAWS NULL AND VOID.

Sec 1. All laws heretofore in existence which may be in conflict
Avith the foregoing shall be considered null and of no effect.

NINTH ANNUAL REPORT

OF THE

j^MERIC^]Sr

Dairymen's Association,

WITH

TRANSACTIONS AND ADDRESSES AT ANNUAL MEETING— LIST

OF CHEESE FACTORIES— LIST OF MEMBERS— REPORTS

OF FACTORIES, AND OTHER PAPERS OF

VALUE AND INTEREST,

FOPl THE TTE^A.!?, ISrS.

TO THE

NINTH ANNUAL REPORT

OF THE

AMERICAN DAIRYMEN'S ASSOCIATION.

Officers for 1874, 7

Articles of Association,- ------ 8

Prefatory Rcmarlis, ..-._-- 9-10

List of Members, ..--__-- 11

List of Butter and Cheese Factories, . - . . . 13

Transactions of Ninth Annual Convention, . • . - . 25

Butter-making, by O. S. Bliss, - - - - - - 2G

Necessity for Discussion — Relation of Dairy Products to popu-
lation— Effect of Soil and Drainage on Butter, - - - 26-31
Discussion — Food for the Dairy and its condition . . - 32-33
Making and Marketing Butter, by L. T. Hawley, - - . 34
Methods of making Butter — Cleanliness — Handling Milk — Pre-
serving and Packing Butter for Market, . - - 34-35
Discussion — Cooling Milk — ^Salting and Packing Butter, - - 36-38
Butter-making, bv H. C. Green, ------ 39

Merits of Butter compared with Cheese — Ratio of Production —
Faulty Practices — How taint affects Cream — Worthless tests, 39-42
Discussion — Deep Setting — Creamery Practice — Taints and Acids, - 42-43

Experience in making Cheese from Milk delivered once a day, with

Facts and Figures, by C. L. Sheldon, . . - - 43-4(5

American Dairy Interest — Its relation to Trade and Commerce, by

Butter and Cheese Exchange, ----- 4(5

Importance of Dairy Interest — Comparative value of Butter
and Cheese — Domestic and Export Trade compared — Capital
invested — Defects and Remedies — Diversion of Produce Trade
from New York and Why — Proposition to improve movements
in Produce — Market Reports, ----- 46-52

Discussion-^Butter and Cheese Exchange, - - - - 53

Butter-making, by O. C. Blodgett, ------ 54

Two classes of Butter — Healthy Butter best — Natural laws in
feeding — Animal odor — Who makes fine Butter ? — Kind of Cows
for Butter and food for tliem — Ground feed — Profits from feed-
ing Grain — Crump's opinion on the food for Cows — Effects of
hot sunshine, - - - - - - - 54^59

6

Discussion — Meal and ground food for Cows, _ - _

General Dairy Interests, by J. H. Reall, - - -

Cheese a wholesome food — Skimming Milk poor Policy — Box-
ing Cheese — Coloring Cheese — Early made Cheese — Amount
produced — Influences of price on consumption — Shipping — Dis-
posing of Cheese — Its consumption — Exporting — Value of Dis-
cussion, .--..---
Fallacies in Cheese-making, by T. D. Curtis, - - - -

Reply to Fallacies in Clieese-making, by A. Holdridge, . - -

Grazing and Dairying in the West and South-west, by X. A. Willard,
Influence of soil on Dairy Products — Dairying in California,^
Arkansas and Nebraska — Grasses in Colorado — Red Top in Col-
orado— Nutritive properties of Native Grasses — Butter Dairying
in the Canons of Colorado— Co-operative Dairying among the
Mormons, - - - -

Testing Milk with Lactometer, by S. A. Farrington,

Tests for Adulteration and Dilution — Importance of Specific
Gravity in Testing — Fleishman's experiments — Variations in
Specific Gravity — Lactometer in Court — Lactometer and Cream
Gauge to be used in connection, . - . - -

Testing Milk — With Illustrating and Experiments, by Hon. H. Lewis,
Discussion — Value of Specific Gravity in testing Milk, - - ^

Report of Committee on Butter and Cheese Exchange,
Creamery Practice and Experience, by W. L. Hunt, - - -

Nature of Milk — Loss of Cream in making Cheese greater than
supposed— May be remedied — Saving effected by removing cream
on night's Milk — Replacing Butter-milk a question— Butter-
milk equal to skim-milk — Large pans better than pails to set
Milk in — Better Butter made from acid Cream — Working, salt-
ing and coloring, how done — Cooling low — Washing, packing,
&c., -...-.-.

Feeding at a Mark, by Prof. E. J. Wickson, - - - -"

Theory and Practice — Why and How we Feed at a Mark — Imita-
tion of Natural Processes — The Staircase of Progressive Organi-
zation— The Doctrine of Residues — The Doctrine applied — An
Argument by Analogy — Theory as such — Albumen, Casein and
Fibrin — Artificial Food — Duty of the Practical Man,
Influence of Organization, by Hon. H. Seymour, - - -

Curing Cheese, by Wm. Blanding, . . . - -

Experimental Farm, by J. V. H. Scoville,

Agriculture and Education connected — School of Hohenheim —
School of Weihenstphen — Agricultural College of Massachu-
setts, Pennsylvania and New York — Plan suggested — Reasons
for demanding Appropriations, for the Dairy interest, -
Remarks on exclusive Agricultural Education, by Hon. H. Seymour,
Sunday Cheese-making, by B. B. Moon, -----

Report of Committee on Dairy Utensils, - ' -

Questions and Replies, -...---

Dairying in the North-west, by Chester Hazen,

Dairying in Iowa, by N. Eldred, ...---

Cost of Producing a Pound of Cheese, by Hon. J. Shull,

Abortion among Cows, by A. L. Fish, - . . . .

Milk — Its Typical Relations, &c. — An Address delivered before the Ver-
mont Dairymen's Association, by Dr. E. L. Sturtevant,
Cheese as Food, by E. W. Stewart, Editor of Live Stock Journal, -
Cheese Factory Reports, -------

Butter Factory Reports, ------

Condensed Reports, - - - - - - -

60
60

60-72
72
77
80

80-86

86-89
89
90
91
92

92-97
98

98-109
109
110
111

111-120
120
121
122

123-124
125
127
128
132

132-148

143-150

151

158

154

OFFICERS OF THE ASSOCIATION,

FOR 1 8 7 4r.

PEESIDKNT :

Hon. HORATIO SEYMOUR, of Oneida.

VICE PEE6IDBNT6 :

Hon. T. G. ALVORD, of Onondaga, New Yoek.

X. A. WILLARD, of Hkkkimee.

T. D. CURTIS, of Oneida, New Yoek.

O. S. BLISS, OF Veemont.

S. A. FARRINGTON, of Cattaeaugus.

JOHN G. CAHOE, of Chautauqua, New Yoek.

DAVID W. LEWIS, of New Yoek City.

M. FOLSOM, OF New Yoek City.

C. E. CHADWICK, of Canada.

ALEX. MoADAM, of Montgomeey, New Yoek.

S. FAVILLE, of Wisconsin.

CHARLES C. HOUSE, of Lewis, New Yoek.

G. B. WEEKS, of Onondaga, New Yoek.

WM. BLANDING, of Become, New Yoek.

L. R. TOWNSEND, of Feanklin, New Yoek.

DAVID HAl^ILIN, of Jeffeeson, New Yoek.

Gen'l B. F. BRUCE, of Madison, New Yoek.

L. R. SMITH, OF Ebie, New Yoek.

H. FARRINGTON, of Canada.

J. LEWIS, OF Cattaeaugus.

Dr. GEO. F. COLE, of St. Laweenoe, New Yoek.

E. S. MUNSON, of Delawaee, New Yoek.

J. M. WALDEN, of Minnesota.

Dr. L. L. WIGHT, of Oneida, New Yoek.

JOHN T. ELLSWORTH, of Baeey, MASSAcnussTTS.

W. A. JOHNSON, of Eeie, New Yoek.

S. STRAIGHT, of Ohio.

A. B. LAMOUNT, of Tompkins, New Yoek,

CHESTER HAZEN, of Wisconsin.

EDWARD NORTON, of Fakmington, Massaohusetts.

DAVID H. BURRELL, op Heekimee, New Yoek.

seoeetaey :
L. B. ARNOLD, Roohestee, New Yoek. *

assistant seoeetaey:
E. J. WICKSON, Utioa, New Yoek.

TEEA8UEEE :

Hon. HARRIS LEWIS, Feankfoet, Hkbkimee County, N. Y.

ARTICLES OF ASSOCIATION.

Whereas, It is deemed expedient to merge the New York State
Cheese Manulacturers' Association, which was organized in January,
1864, into an American Association, through which, as a medium,
results of the practical experience of dairymen may be gathered and
dissemminated to the dairying community ; therefore,

Resolved, That we, the undersigned, do hereby associate ourselves
together for mutual improvement in the science of cheese-making,
and more efficient action in promoting the general interest of the
dairy community. •

Article 1. The name of the organization shall be The American
Dairymen's Association.

Art. II. The officers of the Association shall consist of a Presi-
dent, Vice-President, Secretary and Treasurer.

Art. III. The President, Vice-Presidents, Secretary and Treasurer,
shall constitute the Executive Board of the Association.

Art. IV. The Officers of the Association shall be elected at the
regular annual meeting, and shall retain their offices until their suc-
cessors are chosen.

Art. V. The regular annual meeting shall occur on the second
Tuesday in January of each year, and at such place as the Executive
Board shall designate.

Art. VI. The payment of one dollar shall admit any person to all
the sessions of an Annual Meeting — and the additional payment of
seventy-five cents shall entitle him to the Annual Keport for the cur-
rent year.

Amendment. — The Secretary is hereby empowered to appoint an
Assistant Secretary to assist during the sittings of the Convention,
and discharge such other duties as may be assigned to him, and, m
case of the absence or inability of the Secretary to act, to temporarily
discharge the duties of that office ; it being distinctly understood that
no compensation is attached thereto.

[One dollar constitutes a person not attending an Annual Con-
vention a member of the society for one year, and entitles him to the
Annual Report.]

11^^ The next annual Meeting will begin at Utica, N. Y., on
Tuesday, January 12th, 1875.

PREFATORY REMARKS.

The Ninth Annual Report of the American Dairymen's Association
is submitted with the belief that it will prove, both to dairymen and
otliers,.an interesting document. The numerous addresses are mostly
short but sound and pithy papers. In the preparation of these papers
more than the usual consideration was given to the subject of butter-
making. In preparing entertainment for the convention it was deemed
proper to direct more attention than had been customary to the man-
ufacture of butter, because of its relative importance. Three-fourths
of all the milk in the country is devoted to the production of butter.
A national Dairymen's Association which should not give prominence
to a branch of the dairy interest having such a preponderating import-
ance, Avould evidently fail in the scope of its labors. It is therefore
hoped that this new turn in the discussions of the convention, giving
increased attention to the leading division of Dairy Husbandry, will
be approved by the friends of the Association.

During the past year another new feature has been developed in the
labors of the Association. Allusion is made to its connection with
the Butter and Cheese Exchange of New York. It seemed appropri-
ate that these two organizations, one laboring to produce the best goods,
the other to facilitate their passage to the consumer with the least
possible friction and delay — both national in their field of labor and
influence — shonld act in unison ; and through the action of their
respective Executive Boards they have become so fitr united as to com-
bine their annual reports in one volume, the publication of which has
beeen assumed by the Exchange.

Considerable delay in the publication of this Report has been occa-
sioned by reason of the connection Avith the Exchange, but it is hoped
that the union will prove satisfactory to all concerned and that miitua
good will flow from it.

10

It has long been well understood by dairymen that much of
their profits depend upon the successful marketing of their
goods. Sharp practices and distorted reports of the market, not
only make sad inroads upon individual incomes, and render transac-
tions irregular and unreliable, but they depress the whole interest in
which they occur. It became evident to the members of the conven-
tion upon becoming acquainted with the labors and purposes of the
Butter and Cheese Exchange, that its existence and influence tended
to correct such abuses ; that its accurate and reliable market reports,
open alike to all, and the effort it is making, and the aid it is rendering
to make transactions fair and honorable, are doing much to smooth
and perfect the channels of trade in dairy products, and that it is
therefore worthy of the countenance and support, not only of the
American Dairymen's Association but of dairymen generally. It is
equally evident that while the Exchange is promoting the welfare of
dairymen, its own prosperity is fostered and enlarged by the prosperity
of the dairy interest and hence that it is eminently proper that the two
should harmonize in their labors. From the address presented. by the
Exchange through delegates who appeared on the floor of the Conven-
tion at our solicitation, and its first annual report on the preceeding
pages, the reader may gather valuable hints in regard to the course of
trade in the products of the dairy.

The facts presented in the paper by C. L. Sheldon in regard to the
effect upon quality and yield of cheese from milk delivered once or
twice a day, are commended to the attention of dairymen as indicating
the possibility of a diminution of labor in the transportation of milk
to factories.

The general tenor of discussion was not much different from that
of previous meetings. The large number of addresses shortened
somewhat the time for oral debate. Considerable attention, as usual,
was given to the practice of making butter and cheese from the same
milk without settling the question definitely in the minds of the dis-
putants.

Following the discussions will be found some interesting communi-
cations and selections.

A brilliant entertainment for the whole Convention was prepared on
the evening of the second day of the session, at Bagg's Hotel, under
the auspices of the Central N. Y. Dairymen's Association and Board
of Trade, which was intensely enjoyed by all the participants, and
which will ever be remembered with pleasure by the invited guests.

As heretofore, the Secretary is under obligations to the Utica Morn-
ing Herald, from which he has drawn freely in making up this Report.

L. B. ARNOLD, Secretary.
ESTER, N. Y., June, 1874.

LIST OF MEMBERS

AMERICAN DAIRYMEFS ASSOCIATION,

FOE THE YEAR 1874.

Anderson, Chaa. H., North Greenfield, Saratoga

CO., N. Y.
Andrews, J. P., Attica, Wyoming co., N. Y.
Ayers, E. A., Patterson, Jeiferaon co., N. Y.
Arnold, L. B., Rochester, Monroe co., N. Y.
Austin, P., Brewerton, Onondaga co., N. Y.
Blair, Wm., Truro, Nova Scotia,
Blanding, Wm., Hawleytown, Broome co., N.Y.
Brewer, JohnR., Commonwealth Ave., Boston,

Brown, Geo. H., Tilton, N. 11.
Bussey, A. P. Westernville, Oneida co., N. Y.
Blanding, F., Brookfleld, Madison co., N. Y.
Blanchard, F., Jamestown, Chautauqua co.,

N.Y.
Brayton, A. A., Poland, Herkimer co., N. Y.
Brockway, H. C, Richfield. Otsego co., N. Y.
BrowTi, Morgan L., South Brookfleld, Madison

CO., N. Y.
Barker, Abel, Angelica, Allegany co., N. Y.
Burrell, David H., Little Falls, Herkimer co.,

N.Y.
Babcock, C. J., Newport, Herkimer co., N. Y.
Brown, Wm. L., Unadilla Forks, Otsego co.,

N.Y.
Burrell, Isaac, Salisbury, Herkimer co., N.Y.
Budlong, Wm., West Schuyler, Herkiiner CO.,

N.Y.
Brown, James P., Utica, Oneida co. , N. Y.
Bradley, E; P., Delta, Oneida co., N. Y.
Blodgett, O. C, Fredonia, Chautauqua co.,

N. Y.
Bumham, Asahel, Sinclairville, Chautauqua co.,

N.Y.
Bro\vn, S. R., Newport, Herkimer co., N. Y.
Bliss, O. S., Georgia, Vt.
Balantyme, Thomas, Sebringville, Ont., Canada.
Carr, Walter 37 Pearl street, N. Y. city.
Camp, Geo. Sidney, Owego, Tioga co., N. Y.
Cahoe, J. G., Fredonia, Cattarai^gus co., N. Y.
Chapman, Wm. H., Utica, Oneida co., N. Y.
Clark, James H., South Albion, Oswego co.,

N. Y.
Clark, F., Verona, Oneida co., N. Y.
Curtis, T. D., Syracuse, Onondaga CO., N. Y.
Caswell, Edwin, Ingersol, Ont., Canada.
Chadwick, C. E., Ingersol, Ont., Canada.
Carter, S. E. & Co., Paincsville, Lake co.,Ohio.
Davis, Geoige W., Yorkshire, Cattaraugus co„

N.Y.
Davison, J. W., Frankfort, Herkimer CO., N. Y.
Daniel, Rev. John, Knoxville, Knox co., Tenn.
Dean, James, Ilecla Works, Oneida Co., N. Y.
Do3ie, Thos., Constableville, Lewis co., N. Y.
Davis, Geo. A., Mes;ico, Oswego co., N. Y.

Douglass, C. A., Franklin, Delaware co., N. Y.
Daniels, Geo. B., French Creek, Cattaraugus

CO., N. Y.
Eldred, N., Iowa Falls, Hardin CO., Iowa.
Ellis, E. G., Utica, Oneida co., N. Y.
Freeman, Henry O., Sherburne, Chenango co.,

N.Y.
Farr, M. J., Pierpont Manor, Jefi'erson co., N.Y.
Foster, E. B., Stockbrjdge, Madison co., N. Y.
■Farrington, S. A., Franklinville, Cattaraugus

CO., N.Y.
Freel, Garrattsville, Otsego co., N. Y,
Farrington, H., Norwich, Oxford CO., Ontario,

Canada.
Foot, J. A., Chagrin Falls, Cuyahoga co., O.
Fitch, H. W., Vernon, Oneida CO., N. Y.
Forbes, O. P.,Lindenville, Ashtabula co., O.

Guller, Gilbert, Foristel, St. Charles co.. Mo.

Goodenough, A. A., Parisville Centre, St. Law-
rence CO., N. Y.

Green, H. Cooley, Lines Hollow, Crawford co..
Pa.

Gray, A. M., Hcikimer, Herkimer co., N. Y.

Gardiner, Henry D., North Marshfield, Plym-
outh CO., Mass.

Gould, C. W., Elgin, Kane Co., Ill,

Goodell, J. W., Cauistota, Madison co., N.Y.

Gillet, Harris, Sidney Plains. Delaware co., N.Y.

Gates, Wm. M.. Whitesboro, Oneida co., N. Y.

Gilberts, James, Jamestown, Chautauqua co.,
N.Y.

Graham, K., Belleville, Ont., Canada.

Golden, R., Little Falls, Herkimer CO., N. Y.

Gold, T. S.. Cornwall, Ct.

Hotchkiss, J. F.. Cedar Rapids, Linn co., Iowa.
Henderson, S., Madison, Madison CO., N. Y.
Hildreth, H. D., Canton, St. Lawrence co.,

N. Y.
Hall, S. P. Sherman. Chautauqua co., N. i .
Hayward, Geo. W., Bufi"alo, Erie co., N. Y.
House, Charles C, Uoiiseville, Lewis co., N. V.
Hills, Ed^ar, Verona, Oneida co., N. Y.
Ilorton, L. L., Holland, Erie co., N. Y.
Hawks, Moses, Dunton, Cook co.. 111.
Hunt, Walter L., Rome, Oneida co., N. Y.
Holdridge A., West Burlington, Otsego co.,

N. Y.
Ileglcr, J. C, Ingcrsel, Ont.. Canada.
Higgins, .John, Si)eedsville, Tompkins co., N.Y.
Hazen, Chester, Ladoga, Fon du Lac co.. Wis.
Hetz, John, Washington, D. C.
Johnson, Wm. A., Collins Centre, Eric co., N.Y.
Kenyon, T. H., Tazewell C. H., Tazewell co.,Va.

12

Kast, Joseph, North Litchfield, Herkimer co.,

N. Y.
Keny«n, J. H., Kcllogsville, Cayuga co., N. Y.
Kane, Nelson, Newport, Herkimer co,, N. Y.
Lewis, Hon. Harris, Frankfort, Herkimer co.,

N. Y.
Lamont, A. B.. McLean, Tompkins co., N. Y".
Lewis, David W., New York City.
Losee, H. S., Norwichville, Ont, Canada.
Mason, E. D., Richmond, Vt.
Morris, H. W., Tiskilwa, Bureau co.. 111.
McMahon, B. W., Aylesford, Nova Scotia, Can-
ada.
Merril, R. F., Norwich, Chenango co., N. Y.
Miller, S. T., Constableville, Lewis co., N. Y.
Maynard, G. N., Sanford's Corners, Jefferson

CO., N. Y.
Munson, E. S., Franklin, Delaware co., N. Y.
Murry, Geo., Verona, Oneida co., N. Y.
Moon, B. B., Norway, Herkimer co., N. Y.
Mallory & Co., M., Elgia, Kane co., HI.
McAdam R., Lee Centre, Oneida co., N. Y.
Norton Edward, Farmington, Hartford co..

Conn.
Osgood, W. B., Verona, Oneida co., N. Y".
Pierce, S. D., Belmond, Wright co., Iowa.
Prescott/Thomao, Walesville, Oneida co., N.Y.
Palmer, Walter R., Wattsbury, Erie co.^ Pa.
Page, C. J., Earlville, Madison co., N. Y.
Perkins, J., Bramau's Corners, Schenectady co.,

N. Y.
Phillips, I. F., Cherry Creek, Chautauqua co.,

N.Y.
Porter, Geo. A., Syracuse, Onondaga co., N. Y.
Parsons, G. A., Presque Isle, Aroostook co..

Me.
Robinson, S., Grand Opera House, N. Y. City.
Raht, Wm. L.. Parksville, Polk co., Iowa.
Richardson, Calvin C, 32 Fayette street, Utica,

N.Y.
Richardson, C. H., Herkimer, Herkimer co.,

N.Y.

Reall. J. H., 37 South Water street, Philadel-
phia, Pa.
Simpson, Wm. Jr., West Farms, Westchester

CO., N. Y.
Sheldon, G. L., Lowville, Lewis co., N. Y.
Sails, E. B., Canton, St. Lawrence co.. N. Y.
Sperry, B. A., Hartfield, Chautauqua co., N. Y.
Scoville, J. V. H., Paris, Oneida co., N. Y.
Strong. E. B., Allegany, Cattaraugus co., N. Y.
Schemmerhorn, J. M., North Gage, Oneida co.,

N.Y.
Sage, E. A., New Berlin, Chenango co., N. Y,
Smith, B. P.. Black River, Jefferson co.,N. Y.
Shull, Josiah, Ilion, Herkimer co., N. Y.
Schemmerhorn, Cornelius, North Gage, Oneida

CO., N. Y.
Stone, J. D., Syracuse, Onondaga co., N. Y.
Scott, William, Milford, Otsego co., N. Y.
Seymour, Hon. Horatio, Utica, Oneida co., N.Y.
Shapley & Wells, Binghamton, Broome co.,

N. Y.
Thorne, John D., Littleton, N. C.
Thompson, T. N., Richmond Hill, Susquehan

nah CO., Pa.
Van Duser, J. S., Horseheads, Chenango co.,

N.Y.
Vroman, Eugene E., Delta, Oneida co., N. Y.

Wells, Sheply I.. Binghamton, Broome co., N.Y.
Winsor, W., 144 Chambers St., [New York.
Wilbur, J. H., North Easton, Washington co.,

N.Y.
White & Co., A., Sherburne, Chenango co.,

N- Y.
Wing, L. J., Unadilla Forks, Otsego co., N. Y.
Wilmarth. J., Ritchfield, Otsego co., N. Y.
Willard, X. A., Little Falls, Herkimer co., N.Y.
Wight, L. L., Whitesboro, Oneida co., N. Y.

Toung, Theo. J., Andover, Sussex co., N. J.
York, Warren D., Forestville, Chautauqua co.

N.Y.
Yates, Wm. S., Belleville, Ont, Canada.

13

LIST OF CHEESE Al^D BUTTER FACTORIES.

ONEIDA COUNTY.

Rome C. M. A.
Excelsior Factory,

Greenfield'' B do

Cady's do

D. D. Carpenter's do
Dick's do
Squires do
Ridge Mills, do
T. D. Roberts' do

E. Lewis' do
Tanner's do
Mitchell's do
Thomas' do
Star Hill do
Weeks' do
Fitch's do
Burrell's do
Verona Central do
Willow Grove, do
W. W. Wheeler's do
J. C. Owens' do
Powell's do
Whitaker'B do
Wight's do
Bagg's, do
Deerfield «!fc Marcy do
South Comers, do
Vienna do
West Vienna do
Blossvale do
Glenmore do
Bagg's do
J. G. Cotes' do
J. F. Pierce's do
G. W. Palmer's do
Deansvillc do
Hills do
Williams' do
Waldo's do
Kirkland do
Wallace's do
Countryman s do
J. L. Dean's do
Lowell do
Wood's do
Snxton's do
Charton's do
Capron'B do

Tattle Factory,

Hiram Brown's do

A. R. Sage's do

Holmcsi & Co.'s do

George Bucl's do

Sherburne do

Smyrna do

Billings' do

Plymouth do

Buckleys & Co.s do

Harrisville do

White & Son's do

Cnyler Village Factory,

Cold Spring do

Isbeirs do

Keeler's do

Cayler Hill do

New Boston do

L. Sears' do

Kenney do

Beattic's do

East Homer do

Wiglitnian's do

Potter & Barber's do

Blodgett Mills, do

No. of Cows. 1

No. of Cows.

Rome,

650

N. W. C. M. A. Factory,

N. Western,

do

600

Crill's

do

do

do

Bronson's

do

do

do

300

Verona Landing,

do

Higginsville,
do

400

do

600

Dostater's

do

250

do

L. S. Davis'

do

Florence,

500

Delta,

Cold Spring
Mad River,

do

do

400

Ridge Mills,

300

do

do

250

do

300

Vernon

do

Vernon,

720

Deei-fleld,

900

Vernon & Verona

do

do

Oriskany,

700

Clark's

do

do

500

Remsen,

200

M. Sueirs

do

do

300

do

400

Bronson & Co.

do

Vernon Centre,

300

do

100

W. Canada Creek

do

North Gage,

500

Verona,

800

A. Blue's

do

do

150

do

J. C. Blue's

do

do

700

do

400

Brigg's

do

Marcy Hill,

do

300

Wood'

do

Turin,

Trenton,

1000

Shepard's

do

do

do

350

Franklin

do

F. L-on Works,

500

do

550

Camp's Factory

do

Westmoreland,

400

do

Cheney's

do

do

250

do

250

Hampton C. M. A

do

do

500

Whitesboro,

900

Marshall's

do

Waterville,

700

Stittville,

700

Curtis'

do

do

250

Utica,

400

Shearman's

do

New Hartford,

500

Vienna,

400

Hampton

do

Stauwis,

500

do

350

Schuyler's

do

do

300

West Vienna,

Foster's

do

Durhamville.

425

Blossvale,

406

J. H. Brook's

do

Steuben,

590

Annsville,

500

Chuckery

do

Paris,

450

Holland Patent,

500

Wilcox

do

do

do

400

A. S. King

do

Sauqnoit,

do

550

A. Sessions

do

do

N. Bridgewater,
Deansvfile,

600

A. Tucker's

do

do

350

700

S. Thomas'

do

Cassvillc,

300

Westernville,

200

E. A. Palmer's

do

Clayville,

200

do

200

Union Grove,

do

Camden,

150

do

350

Harvey's

do

Boonville,

Kirkland,

200

Reed & Co.

do

do

500

W. Branch,

400

Kuoxboro

do

Knoxboro,

400

do

Rathbun's

do

New London,

400

Hccla,

200

N. London C.M.A

.do

do

300

Lowell,

600

Ray's

do

North Bay,

Lee Centre,

560

Spinning's
G. M. Wood's

do

Taberg,

do

300

do

Stokes,

do

400

Hurlburt's

do

Ava,

do

Jones'

do

do

CHENANGC

) COUNTY.

Columbus,

2;m

L. Andrews Factory,

South Otselic,

do

400

Holmcsville

do

Holmesville,

650

N. Berlin Centre

800

Daniels'

do

McDonough,

600

Columbus,

600

Lincklaen

do

Lincklaen,

500

King Settlement

GOO

Wheeler's

do

do

Sherburne,

700

Harrington

do

do

Smyrna,

Norwich C. M. Co

.do

Norwich,

500

do

Frink's

do

do

Plymouth,

Leach's

do

do

Oxford,

Sage's

do

S. New Berlin,

Sherburne,

350-

Rich's

do

do

do

Brown, Sage «£Co.,

do

860

CORTLANI

) COUNTY.

Cnyler,

600

Raymond's Factory,

Preble,

600

do

300

Kitt's

do

do

425

do

250

Homer C. M. Co.

do

Homer,

600

do

200

Tuttle's

do

Freetown,

400

do

450

Cincinnatus

do

Cincinnatus,

400

do

200

S. Cortland

do

S. Cortland

DeRuyter,

6.50

Jlcecliam's

do

Marathon,

300

Tni.xton,

1,000

Brown's

do

Taylor,

400

do

400

Kccncy Scttlcm'nt do

K. S.,

700

East Homer,

400

Whitniarsh

do

do

Marathon,

4.50

H. H. Smith's

do

Apulia,

Scott,

:i00

Harford

do

Harford

Blodgett'8 Mills, 150

Cold Grove Farm Creamery, Cincinatus,

14

MADISON COUNTY.

Norton's Factory,

Morse's do

W. Eaton do

Pecksport do

Erieville do

Seymour's do

Smith Valley do

Hill's do

Cazenovia do

C. Bridge do

Blodgett's do

Perkm's do

Clockville do

N. Cazenovia do

Chittenango do

Lebanon do

Allard's do

Quaker Basin do

Torpy's do

Mack's do
Brown & Co.'s do

Beech & Co.'s do

Fletcher's do

Stafford's do

Solsville do

Pine Woods do

Baker's do
Chenango Valley do

Cowasalon do

"Walrath's do

Hunt's do

Keith's do

East Boston do

Adams,

Alexander's,

Antwerp,

Ayers,

Babcock's,

Barber's,

Bonfoy & Bettinger,

Belleville,

Bent,

B. P. Smith,

Brownville,

Brown,

Benjamin & Co.'s,

Carter Street,

Cascade,

Champion Village,

Cooper's,

Cooper's, B'hNo. 1 do

Cooper's. " No.2do

Cold Spring,

Cold Spring,

Cold Spring,

Campbell's,

Dry Hill,

Davis'

Eames'

East Rodman,

Earll,

Ellis ville,

Evans Mills,

Excelsior,

Excelsior,

Farr,

Foreman's,

Qriswold Si Tleed,

Gardner's,

Grinnell & Co.

Olin &.Smead'BFactory,
Southville do

Richville, do

Jones' do

Potsdam, do

Hailsboro do

Sprague Corners, do
Russell Village, do
Bul)cock & Merrill's
butter do

Eaton,

Chapman's Factory,

Oneida Lake,

300

do

600

Hart's

do

do

250

W. Eaton,

500

Morrell's

do

do

150

Bouckville,

450

Cole's

do

Munnsville,

350

Erieville,

700

Lincklaen

do

DeRuyter,

300

Lebanon,

408

DeRuyter

do

do

600

do

600

Fletcher's

do

Peterboro,

750

Oneida Castle,

700

Valley

do

Stockbridge,

450

Cazenoviaj

600

Adams

do

do

do

N. Woodstock

do

New Woodstock,

800

do

200

Hunt's

do

Hubbardsville,

200

do

Lamunion & Co.

do

Morrisville,

400

Clockville,

500

Morrisville,

do

do

600

Chittenango,

300

Gaige & Son

do

Nelson,

600

do

Ellison's

do

Brookfleld,

200

LeonardsVille,

500

Excelsior

do

do

350

Georgetown,

150

York

do

do

225

do

300

Union

do

do

200

do

150

S. Brookfleld

do

South Brookfleld,

250

do

160

Bridgeport

do

Bridgeport,

300

do

500

Lakewood

do

273

do

175

Fort Bushnell'B

do

Lakeport,

400

do

200

Gifford's

do

do

Fenner,

200

Tucker's

do

Mile Strip,

300

Solsville,

700

Lennox C. M. A.

do

Canastota,

500

Pine Woods^

600

Merrill's

do

Madison,

Earlville,

300

Madison C. M. A.

do

do

do

Siloam

do

Siloam,

400

Wampsville,

500

Pratt's Hollow

do

Pratt's Hollow,

250

do

Shedd's Corners

do

Shedd's Corners,

250

Hamilton,

Downing's

do

Pine Woods,

North Brookfleld

Decker' b

do

Oneida Valley.

East Boston,

JEFFERSOI

'^ COUNTY.

Adams,

Hadsall's

Felts Mills,

Henderson,

Heath's,

Adams Centre,

Antwerp,

950

Hamlin,

Rutland,

325

Watertown,

Harper's Ferry,

Rutland Centre,

Champion,

Henderson,

Henderson,

Philadelphia,

Howard,

Stone Mills,

300

Mannsville,

Lorraine Central,

Lorraine,

300

Belleville,

Limerick,

Dexter,

300

Antwerp,

Lefflngwell,

Henderson,

Black River,

Mannsville,

Mannsville,

775

Brownville,

400

Maple Grove,

Lorraine,

Watertown,

Musc^llonge,

Dexter,

Camp's Mills,

Muzy's,

Smithville,

Stone Mills,

Pillar Point,

Dexter,

Rutland,

Philadelphia,

Philadelphia,

Champion,

Pitkins,

Lorraine,

250

Evan's Mills,

350

Rodman,

Rodman,

Evansvil'.e,

470

" Branch

Burrvllle,

Sanford's Corners 500

Rogers,

Ellisburgh,

700

Watertown,

Rogers,

Lorraine,

Belleville,

Rutland Valley,

Watertown,

Robert's Cornei'Si,

Sherman's,

Watertown,

South Rutland

150

Springer's,

Redwood,

Watertown,

Smithville,

Smithville,

Smithville,

South Champion,

South Champion

450

Rutland,

250

Springside,

Dexter,

East Rodman,

Sterlingbush,

Antwerp,

Carthage,

Tiffts,

Lorraine,

Ellisburgh,
Evan's Mills,

Timmerman's,

Orleans 4 Corners,

1000

Warner,

Adams Centre,

Perch River,

Wescott,

Watertown,

375

South Champion

Whitesville,

East Rodman,

Pierrepont Manor, 225

Wicks,

Antwerp,

Woodville,

Wilson,

Watertown,

Lorraine,

Wright,

Depauville,

Watertown,

Woodville,

Woodville,

Pieirepont Manor, 300

Worth,

Worthville,

500

ST. LA^

/"RE^

rCE COUNTY.

Canton,

675

Franklin & Conroy do

Brier Hill,

524

Southville,

200

Beech Grove Factory,

Russell,

500

Richville,

640

W. Canton

do

Canton,

do

South Canton,

do

Crary's Mills,

450

Potsdam,

500

DeKalb

do

DeKalb,

700

Gouverneur,

600

Gouverneur

do

Gouverneur,

500

Shingle Creek,

600

Pike's

do

Shingle Creek,

Russell,

500

W. Fowler

do

Hermon

do

Hermon,

Mitchclsville,

300

Barker's

do

Rushville,

15

HERKIMER COUNTY.

Ilerk. Co. U'n Factory,

Manheim Centre do

Manlieim Turu. do

Manheim do

Snell's Bush, do

Newville C. M. A. do
Kice, Broat & Co.'s do

G. W. Davis' do

Cold Spring do

Top Notch do

Van Allen's do
Fairfield Associa'n do

No. Fairfield do

Old Fairfield do

Eatonville do

Locust Grove do

Mohawk Valley do

RichardBon'e do

Budlon^'s do

Warren's do

Fort Herkimer do

Bellinger's d

Beckwith'8 do

Cold Spring do

Stewart's do

Howard's do

Cedarville do

Smith's do

A. G. Norton*s do

Frankfort Centre do

Russell's do

Wetmorc's do

D. Hawn'S do

Snell's do

Nash's do

Tlider's do

Stuart's do

Richardson's do

M. Pierce's Factory,

Gilbert Mills do

Dick's do

Volney Center do

Whittcmore's do

Ingell & Smith's do

E. Sandy Creek do

Robbins & Co.'s do

Suydam's do

Trumbull's do

Hall's do

Cold Spring do

Jones' do

L. Willis' do

Blunt" 8 do

Union do

Union do

Weygint's do

Bamaska's do

Morton's do

Sweet's do

Smith's do
Hastings C. M. Co. do

Oswego Center do

Bowen's Corners do

Wilco.x's do
W. Monroe C. M. A. do

Titus & Wilson do

Gardner's do

WalworHi Factory,

Butler Center do

Williamson do

I'almyra do

Sa fiord's do

South Butler do

Maccdon do

BTry Batter Factory,
Moria " do

Keelcr " do

Cold Spring Butter do
Ihiioii "• do

\Vt•^l tian;^or •' ilo
So. Bangor •' do

Little Falls,

700

Skinner's Factory,

So. Columbia,

do

600

Kling's

do

Paine' s Hollow,

do

500

Middleville

do

Middleville,

700

do

6.50

Northrup's

do

Lit'hfteld,

300

do

550

Kinney's

do

do

600

do

860

Walrath's

do

N. Litchfield,

300

do

900

Van Hornsville

do

Van Hornsville,

215

do

600

Young's

do

do

do

Lackey's

do

W. Winfield,

300

do

450

H. C. Brown's

do

do

400

do

Wadsworth'B

do

do

200

Fairfield,

1000

W. Palmer's

do

do

do

600

Edick's

do

Mohawk,

225

do

900

Mort's

do

do

Eatonville,

600

If. Clark's '

do

Winfield,

5 0

do

150

N. Bartlett's

do

do

300

B. Schuyler,

450

N. Winfield

do

N. Winfield,

700

do

860

Moon's

do

Russia,

300

W. Schuyler,

300

Poland Cheddar

do

Poland, I

4.50

Warren,

400

Herkimer

do

Herkimer,

700

Fort Herkimer,

400

Herkimer Union

do

do

250

do

400

G. W. Pine's

do

do

600

Cedarville,

300

Newport

do

Newport,

do

Morey's

do

800

do

White Creek

do

do

300

do

Cold Creek

do

do

6fi0

do

300

Cook, Ives & Co.

do

Salisbury,

500

Frankfort,

800

Stratford

do

do

250

do

Old Salisbury

do

do

600

do

Avery & Ives

do

Salisbury Centre

500

Russell's Hill,

Brockett's Bridge

do

Brockett's Bridg

j,600

do

Brockett & Fecter do

do

250

Starkville,

800

Keys'

do

do

500

Russia,

606

Norway Associa'n do

Norway,

600

Frankfort Centre

J. D. Ives'

do

do

Cedar Lake,

Columbia Center

do

Columbia Center

Cedarville,

J. Russell's

do

Graefenberg,

' 360

W. Schuyler,

OSWEGO

COUNTY.

So. Richland,

300

Fairdale Factory,

Fairdale,

Gilbert Mills,

430

McMullen's

do

Hinmanville,

Pennellville,

Mead's

do

E. Sandy Creek,

Volney,

310

Bauder's

do

Caughdenoy,

Scriba,

500

Smith's

do

New Haven,

200

Volney,

375

Daggett's

do

do

400

E. Sandy Creek,

Donnelly's

do

North Scriba,

400

do

600

S. W. Oswego

do

do

400

Vermillion

do

Vermillion,

500

Pulaski,

270

Smith's

do

Volney,

500

do

300

Hubbard's

do

250

do

300

Jennings'

do

Palermo,

100

South Richland,

400

East Scriba,

do

200

do

300

Sweet's

do

Schroeppcl,

200

Orwell,

150

Gregg's

do

do

260

Colosse,

400

P'irst National

do

Pha-nix,

475

Mexico,

500

Central Square

do

Central Square,

1.30

Prattville,

530

West Manuel

do

225

Phoenix,

Granby Center

do

220

Orwell,

000

Rhodes

do

Scriba,

150

Phcenix,

Union

do

Sandy Creek,

230

Hastings,

Union

do

Scriba,

325

do

Amboy
Smith 8

do

Amboy Corners,

300

Oswego Center

400

do

Fulton,

Bowen's Corners,

Loornis'

do

Palermo,

Oswego Falls,

Clough & Co.'e

do

Constantia,
Richland,

West Monroe,

Cold Spring

do

Hannibal.

P. Wyman's

do

Orville,

S. Hannibal,

WA

YNE

Molino

COUNTY,

do

Molino,

Walworth,

300

Wilbur's Factory,

Newark,

Butler Center,

240

Lincoln

do

W. Walworth,

Williamson,

Marion

do

Marion,

I'altnyra

Lee & Shcftield's

do

Rose,

400

Savannah,

175

Alloway

do

Lyons,

500

South Butler,

i Naings

do

do

Maccdon,

FRA>

300

fKLII

NT COUNTY.

Malone,

300

Bnrncp Butter Factory,

Moria,

200

Moria,

200

Williamson

do

Malone,

200

Malone,

250

Barley Spring

do

Chateugay,

250

do

.300

Belmont

do

do

300

Biuicor,

.•KKJ

1 LuderV

d(.

do

■400

do

300

Uicutt

do

I'.elmout.

■200

do

UWI

16

Hudson Factory,

George Hoyo'e Factory,

Java Village do

North Java, do

Stryker & Co.'a do

Empire do

Arcade C. M. A. do

Nile do

Bennington do

Bast Bennington do

Arcade do

Wells' do

Castile do

Gardlant's do

Chapman's do

Stephens' do

North Bend Factory,

North Bend do

Granville do

Fort Ann do

Sanborn C. M. Comp'y,
Johnson Creel;: do

Maine Factory,

Hawleyton do

Killawog do

Cold Spring, Factory,
Flint Creek do

Stickney's Factory,

W. G. Huntington do'

North Concord do

First Collins do

Collins Center do

Brant Center do

Marehfleld do

Morton's Corners do
Richmond & Co.'s do

Glen wood do

Dick & Co.'s do

North Collins do

Kirby's do

Young's do

Wheelock's do

Staffin's do

W. Smith's do

Ballard's do

Hensler do

Cotesworth do

North Boston do

Boston Center do

Cold en do

Marilla do

Kimball's do

Cheese M, A. do

OencseeValley Factory,
Riga do

A. P. Cook's Factory,
Throopsville C.M.A. do
Moravia do

Sennett do

Carpenter's do

Drydcn Union Factory,
Groton do

Ellis Hollow do

McLean Associa'u do

COLUMBIA COUNTY.

Hudson, I Chatham Factory,

WYOMING COUNTY.

Chatham Center,

Attica,

Tozier's Factory,

Johnsonburg,

Java Village,

450

Sheldon C. M.A.

do

Sheldon,

North Java,

Wyoming

do

Wyoming,

do

Chapman's

do

Perry,

Java,

400

Hermitage

do

do

OraugeviUe

do

Grangeville,

600

Nile,

Wilder & Co.'s

do

do

Bennington,

400

Strykersville

do

Strykersville,

East Bennington

, 875

E.Coy

do

Pike.

Arcade,

500

Lillibridge

do

do

do

Empire

do

EAst Pike,

Castile,

400

Oatka

do

Gainesville,

Attica,

Cowlesville

do

Cowlesville,

Paris Center,

Java Lake

do

350

Dale,

WASHINGTON COUNTY.

N. Granville,

S. Granville Factory,

South Granville,

Middle Granville

250

Middle Granville

do

Middle Granville

500

Granville,

450

Greenwich

do

Greenwich,

135

Fort Ann,

Hawley's

do

Fort Edward,

NIAGARA

COUNTY.

Sanborn,

300

Middleport Factory,

Middleport,

Johnson's Creek

J. C. Francis'

do

do

BROOME

COUNTY.

Maine,

250

Squires' Cr. Factory,

Kirkwood,

275

Hawleyton.

Page Br'k Valley

do

North Fenton,

500

Killawog,

ONTi

VRIO

COUNTY.

West FarmingtoE

,450

B. Bloomfleld Factory,

East Bloomfleld.

Flint Creek,

ER

IE C

OUNTY.

Collins,

1,000

Boston Factory,

Boston,

400

Pontiac

800

Concord Center,

do

Woodward's Hoi

500

Concord,

Wales

do

Wales,

450

800

Paxton's

do

Eden,

600

Collins Center,

1,100

Sisson's

do

Shirley,

600

Brant.

550

North Evans

do

North Evans,

600

Collins Center,

1,100

Angola

do

Angola,

360

Morton's Corners

, 600

Stickney's

do

Brant,

400

Sardinia,

500

Springville
Blakeley's

do

Springville,
East Aurora,

1,300

Glenwood,

400

do

Willink,

350

Jackson's

do

East Hamburg,

300

Shirley,

Hamburg

do

Hamburg,

300

do

North Evans

do

North Evans,

250

Alden,

800

East Evans

do

East Evans,

350

300

Eden Corners

do

Eden Corners,

350

Collins.

200

Sardinia Valley

do

Sardinia Valley,

450

300

Newton

do

Sardinia,

250

350

Hosraer's

do

de

Grand Island,

150

Wales Center

do

Wales Center,

400

do

100

Fuller's

do

do

450

South Wales

do

Wales,

450

350

Elma

do

do

300

Colden,

300

Burroughs & Co.

do

do

Marilla,

Francis

do

Lancaster,

Farringtou's

do

Holland,

Spring Brook,

Moul ton's

do

Protection,

MONROE

COUNTY.

Sonyea,

300

Mendon Factory,

Mendon,

Riga,

Perinton,

do

Fairport,

CAYUGA

COUNTY.

Cato,

300

Ira Factory,

Ira,

Throopsville,

450

Lincoln's

do

Conquest Center,

400

Moravia,

250

P.ByronC.M.Co.'

sdo

Port Byron,

Sennett,

400

Meridian

do

Meridian,

200

New Hope,

Montezuma

do

TOMPKINS

) COUNTY.

Etna,

(iOO

Slaterville Factory,

Slaterville,

Groton Hollow,

500

Peru

do

Peruville,

Ithaca,

Ridgew'y Cream'y do

Caroline Depot,

McLean,

700

Excelsior Butter

do

Caroline,

300

17

ORANGE COUNTY.

Circleville Factory,
Collaburg do

Rockville do

Unionville do

Walkill A830cia''n do
D. Mullock's do

Orange Co. M. A. do

do do

Gouge & Co. do

Bates & Co. do

Gouge & Youngs' do
T. J. Taylor's do

Carpenter Howell do

do do

Sanford & Smith do
H. Milburn do

T. Durland do

Brown, Bailey & Co do
Foster Clark's do

W. H. Clark & Co. do
Barton Spring do
Parlor do

Towner's Factory,

Hunter's Cream'y do

Simpson's Factory,

Reservoir do

Rushford do

Forsythe's do
S. Sherman & Co do

Richburg do

Curtis' do

I). T. Burnick's do

Greene's do

Friendship, do

Centerville, do

Ackerley's do

Barns' do

Andover do

Black Creek, do

Oramel do

Kiel do

Wellsville do

Lyndon do

Pettibone's do

Dodge's Creek do

Jackson's do

Italy Hollow C. M. A.,

400

Wood's Factory,

Chester,

200

220

Kidd's

do

Walden,

Middletown,

200

J. F. Vail & Co.

do

450

250

Bro^vn, Lane & Co. do

:50

375

Wawanda

do

376

Middletown,

250

J. B. Halsey & Co

. do

300

Michigan,

550

E. Bull's

do

Chester,

159

Chester,

325

Bankers Bro.'s

do

do

200

Hamptonburgh,

600

F. Davis'

do

do

125

do

250

P. Holbert's

do

Middletown,

275

Florida,

400

Mapes & Co.

do

do

425

do

175

Jas. Hulse

do

do

250

Amity,

415

Wm. Mead & Co.

do

do

250

Warwick,

350

Christee & Co.

do

Unionville,

300

do

300

0. F. Green

do

GreenvUle,

300

do

250

H. Reamy

do

do

125

do

150

Finchville

do

Otisville,

375

Edenville,

400

J. A. Wood's

do

Slate Hill,

300

Wickham's Pond

, 350

Howell & Co.

do

Monroe,

400

Minisink,

300

Sugar Loaf

do

Sugar Loaf,

550

Monroe,

100

Union Con'd Milk Co.

New Milford,

Blooming Grove,

GREENE

COUNTY.

Jewett,

Smith's Factory,

Ashland,

do

Kirkland

do

Durham.

ALLEGAN^

i^ COUNTY.

New Hudson,

600

Morley's Factory,

Whitney's Crossing,

Seymour,

600

Flanagan's

do

Cole Creek,

Rushford.

1^000

Crandall's

do

Dodge's Corners,

Whitesville,

200

Belvidere

do

Belvidere,

Nile,

125

Rice's

do

do

Richburg

100

Granger

do

Granger,

do

Little Genesee

do

Little Genesee,

Alfred,

400

Carr Valley

do

Almond,

400

do

A. Congdon's

do

West Clarksville,

250

Friendship,

400

Babbit's

do

Hume,

350

Centerville,

400

Phillips Creek,

do

Philips Creek,

450

Rushford,

600

Vandermarsh

do

Scio,

275

Filmore,

700

R Smith's '

do

Cuba,

350

Andover,

350

West Almond

do

West Almond,

Black Creek,

400

G. West's

do

Alfred Center,

Oramel,

450

J. Wilcox's

do

Wirt Center,

150

250

^\'iscoy

do

Wiscoy,

200

Wellsville,

300

Genesee

do

Little Genesee,

120

Cuba,

700

Elm Valley

do

Andaver,

150

Alfred,

Angelica

do

Angelica,

Portville,

Olean

do

Olean,

356

Belmont,

McHenry Valley

do

Alfred Center,

300

YATES COUNTY.
Italy Hollow.

PUTNAM COUNTY.

Borden's Condensed Milk Factory, Brewster.

OTSEGO COUNTY.

Wykoff'e Factory,

Bush's do

E. D. Lamb's do

Center Brook do

Stocker & Pox's do

Casler & Andrews do

Hartwick do

PittCushman's do

Ool. Gardner's do

Ed. Gardner's do

Benj. Smith's do

Brockway's do

Smitn & Wilber do

Fly Creek do

Park's do

Parley Phillips' do

Wm. L. BrouTi's do

Clark's do

Edmeston Center do

Warren Chase's do

Joseph King's do

George Clark's do

Nearmg & Co.'s do

Mariaville Factory,

2

Richfield Springs, .300

do
Unadi 11a Forks, 350
Otsego, 300

East Springfleld, 300
Springfleld Center,450
Hartwick, 200

Edmeston Center, 200
Burlington Flats, 150

do 150

Spooner's Coru'rs,400
Richfield, 400

West Exeter, 400

Fly Creek, 200

Burlington Green, 350
Unadilla Forks, 200

do 200

Schuyler's Lake, 201
Edmeston Center, 750
W. Edmeston. 250

Burliui,'t((n Green 200
Hyde P.-u-k, 300

Butternuts.

Russell Bo wers'Factory,

Perkin's do

Hind's do

Hosie's do

do do

R. L. Warren's do

West Burlington do

Parker's do

Pope's do

L. N. Brown's do

Ed. Loorais' do

L. O. Vebber's do

H.&S. Smith's do

J. H. Pratt's do

Lyman Johnson do

Coleman's do
Newel N. Talbot's do

Hartwick Union do

Chamberlain's do

Cherry Valley do

Tuttle's do

Rider's do

Baker's do

Exeter, 300

do
Cooperstown,

do
Unadilla Forks.
East Springfield,
West Burlington, 300
S. Edmeston, 400

do 300

W. Edmeston, 600
Richfield, 150

Exeter Center, 600
W. Exeter, 300

do 400

Burlington Flats, 500

do 200

do
Cooperstown,
Richfield Springs,
Cherry Valley. 300
South Edmeston, 350
Schuyler's Lake, 100

do 600

SCHENECTADY COUNTY.

I Rotterdam Factory,

18

GENESEE COUNTS.

Batavia Union Factory,

Batavia,

Darien Center Factory,

Darien Center,

400

do C. M. A

do

do

500

Oakfield

do

Oakfield,

Byron

do

Byron,

W. Bethany

do

West Bethany,

Eichville

do

Pembroke,

East Bethany

do

East Bethanj',

Linden

do

Linden,

Foster's

do

Batavia,

Staflbrd

do

Stafford,

FULTON

COUNTY.

Stuart's Factory,

Oppenheim Center,

Cold Brook Factory,

Brockett's Bridge

,

Fuiton

do

do

)

Brockett's Bridge

do

do

Cross Roads

do

Johnstown,

350

Penh Center

do

Perth Center,

300

Stollar's

do

do

Slate Hill

do

Epharth

600

SARATOGA COUNTY.

Ballston Factory,

Ballston Center,

Galaway Factory,

Galaway,

Empire

do

South Gallaway,

250

Charlton

do

Charlton,

CATTARAUGUS COUNTY.

Welch's Factory,

Dayton

Farmersville Factory,

Farmersville,

400

Perrysburgh

do

Perrysburgh,

550

Cook & Brothers'

do

do

Ticknor's

do

Versailles,

500

Napaer

do

do

Slab City

do

Slab City,

J. K. Button's

do

do

Leon Center,

do

Leon Center,

Ischua

do

Ischua,

Randolph

do

Randolph,

200

Portville

do

Portville,

First Collins

do

Gowanda,

700

Olean

do

Olean,

Stebbiu's

do

Cattaraugus,

Hinsdale

do

Hillsdale,

Waverly

do

Waverly,

Rockspring

do

Franklinville,

600

Safford's

do

East Otto,

Union

do

EUicottville,

600

Union

do

do

McMahou

do

do

Tiffs

do

do

400

Meadow Valley

do

do

Crump's

do

do

Little Valley

do

Little Vallej',

Ashford's

do

Ashford,

tJOO

Great Valley

do

Great Valley,

Westville

do

Westville,

Merrilly's

do

Napoli,

West Ashford

do

Ashford Hollow,

Lyndon

do

Lyndon,

Machias Corners,

do

Machias Corners

Cadiz

do

Cadiz,

■850

Woodworth's

do

Yorkshire,

450

New Ashford

do

New Ashford,

400

Maple Ridge

do

Fairview,

660

\ ork shire Center

do

Yorkshire Ceutei

, 500

Gowauda

do

Gowauda,

550

New Albion

do

do

600

D wight's

do

do

Jenk's

do

Gowanda,

1,000

Allen's

do

Eddyville

350

Pigeon Valley

do

do

369

Maple Grove

do

EllicottviWe,

200

West Valley

do

West Valley,

E. Ashford

do

East Ashford.

550

Ballard

do

do

Follet's

do

Machias,

4U0

Bigelow's

do

Ashford,

Lewis & Haskeir

<do

Sandusky,

Vedder Corners

do

do

Elton

do

Elton,

400

Gamp's

do

Ashford Hollow,

Rawson

do

Ra^\son,

LEWIS (

BOUNTY.

SulphurSpring Factory,

Lowville,

590

Barnes Cornr's Factory,

Pinckney,

G. Austin's

do

do

500

Bigham Brothers

do

Harrisburgh,

300

Lowville

do

do

850

Campbell's

do

do

100

Union

do

do

2i0

G. C. Youngs'

do

do

170

West Lowville

do

do

500

W-W.^tA-D-Vorcedo

do

270

8. Harrisburgh

do

do

370

Copenhagen

do

do

280

Alexander's

do

do

100

N. Clark's

do

do

200

Harrisburirh

do

Harrisburgh,

600

■ J. M. Wallace's

do

Denmark,

425

G. D. Ryel's

do

Copenhagen,

285

Stony Brook

do

do

800

Lanphere's

do

do

200

Hadcock's

do

do

370

River Street

do

do

250

Wm. Glenn's

do

Watson,

400

Houseville

do

Houseville,

650

Lyon's

do

Lyon's Falls,

150

Orrin Carpenter's

do

Turin,

200

Martinsburgh

do

Martinsburgh,

700

Welsh Hill

do

do

330

E. G. Dodge's

do

do

250

Turin

do

do

550

John Smithling's

do

do

308

Horatio Phillips'

do

do

500

Wm. Williams"

do

do

750

J. T, Miller

do

Constableville,

1,000

W. Martinsburgh

do

do

500

M. Donald's

do

do

3ti0

Union

do

do

400

Valley

do

do

550

John Rees'

do

do

200

H. C. Markham

do

West Turin,

Crystal

do

New Bremen,

340

Closmer's

do

High Market,

Cold Spring

do

do

500

C. & G. Plummer

do

do

400

Joseph Shears

do

do

200

Wilder's

do

400

Beaver Falls

do

Croghan,

2^0

Sugar River

do

Leyden,

500

Michael Baker

do

do

200

Leyden Cheese A

do

do

520

Iris Creek

do

do

350

D. D. Carpenter

do

Pinckney,

DUTC

100

)HES^

5 COUNTY.

Sheldon'

Factory, Stissing.

CLINTON COUNTY.

i Smith Dale Factory,

Piatt's Factory, Plattsburg,

Rouse's Point do Rouse's Point,

ORLEANS COUNTY

Cooley & Thompson's Factory, Albion.

Peru .

19

STEUBEN COUNTY.

Spalding's

Factory,

Howard,

400

J. Davis' Factory,

Greenwood,

250

Beniiett'8

do"

do

500

Mason's

do

North Cameron,

400

Kiinona

do

Kanona,

300

Spalding & Co.

do

Avoca,

"Wiug's

do

Campbell,

Sitterly's

do

Bath,

ONONDAGA COUNT Y-

L.H. Webster's

Factorv,

Fabius,

500

Belle Isle, Factory,

Belle Isle,

Delphi

do'

Delphi,

450

Sherwood's

do

Brewerton,

Salisbury's

do

Apulia,

600

DeWitt C. M. A.

do

DeWitt,

300

Coppernoll's

do

Lysander,

Talbot

do

Fabius,

400

Edward's

do

Manlius,

Euclid

do

Euclid,

Hopper's

do

CoUamer,

160

Navarino

do

Navarino,

140

Hiscock's

do

Jamesville,

Kirkville

do

Kirkville,

450

Seneca

do

Bald«dnsville,

150

Camp's

do

Otisco,

200

Spafford

do

Spafford,

Little Utica

do

Little Utica,

300

Loumis"

do

Cicero,

Cole Settlement

do

Fabius,

150

Van Bramer's

do

do

Block School Ho.

do

do

Sternbe:g'8

do

Cicero Center,

Southard's

do

Pompey Center,

Delphi

do

Delphi,

Palmer C. M. A.

do

Oran,

250

Elbridge

do

Elbridge,

400

Plainville

do

Plainville,

400

TuUy

do

Tully,"

Young's

do

Euclid.

Jack,s Riffs

do

Jack's Riffs,

Marcellus

do

Marcellus.

SCHUYLER COUNTY.

Havana, | Alpine Factory,

CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY.

Hamlet,

Bust!,

Fredouia,

Sinclairville,

Forrestville,

Villanova,

1.100
(iHO

roo

1.049
400
400

Brainard's
Coon's

do
Canadawa
Gerry
Cassadaga

Factory,
do
do
do
do
do

Hamlet.

(3) Mina,

Sherman,

Arkwright,

Gerry,

Cassadaga.

650
1,250
4.50
680
500
400

CHEMUNG COUNTY.

Chemung,
Millport,

2.50 1 H.C.Hoffman's Factory,
750 1 Van Duzer & Son's do

Horseheads,
do

650
4u0

TIOGA COUNTY.

Speedsville,

Jenksviile
Armstrong

Factory,
do

Jenksviile,
do

200
100

SCHOHARIE COUx^TY.

Sharon Center,

Seward.

Hiudsville,

Gardnersville,

Cobleskill,

250

200
200

Argusville
Carlisle
Barneyville
Esperance,

Factory,
do
do
do

Argusville,
Carlisle,
Barneyville,
Esperance.

60U

300
200

Cook & Co.'s Factory,

Hamlet Factory,

J. E. Robertson's do"
Clear Spring oo

Burnham's do

J. S. Hulberf s do
Villanova do

J. S. Holberf s Factory,
Bunnell &. Horton's do

Speedsville Factory,

Sharon Center Factorj',
Seward Valley do
Hindsville do

Gardnersville do

Cobleskill do

RENSSELAER COUNTY.

Matteson's Factory, South Berlin.

MONTGOMERY COUNTY.

Charleston 4 Corners
Smith Creek Factory

Dunkle's do

Root's do

Empire Cheddar do

Florida do

Hallsville do

Freys Bush do

Hessville do

Cold Spring do

Watcrville do

Flat Creek do

Brookman & C!o. do

Ford's Bush do

Cayadutta do

Bates, Suell & ( 'o. do

St. Johnsville do

Charleston do

Charleston Union do

S. ZoUer's do

Wm. Dunchell's do

Sand Hill do

Seeber Lane (lo

Elm Dale do

Van Epps do

Maple Grove do

Bates do

A. Smith & Co. do

Alpine.

Factory,

400

Root

Factory

Fort Plain,

300

Wier's

do

do

Glen

do

do

Diefendorf's

do

Burtonville,

300

W. Green's

do

do

400

Dorn's

do

Hallsville.

400

Florida

do

Freys Bush,

fiSO

Miuaville

do

Sprout Brook,

270

Switzer Hill

do

Stone Araba,

250

Schuyler's

do

Ames.

600

Mohawk Valle)

do

Flat Creek.

450

Cold Spring

do

Fort Plain,

6(10

Union

do

Mindcn

150

Failing's

do

Fonda

600

Gatesvillc

do

St. Johnsville

3.50

Mother Creek

do

do

600

Buel

do

Charleston

350

Mapletowu

do

do

250

Kilts

do

200

Zimmerman Creek do

350

Klock & Nellis

do

330

Slate Hall

do

•TOO

Christman

do

240

Spraker

do

15p

Grove

do

200

Dairyman

do

400

Scotch Church

do

450

Pawling

do

Root,

500

do

Glen.

400

Amsterdam,

300

do

do

Minaville,

do

450

Fonda,

350

do

do

250

Palatine Bridge,

do

5S0

do

Randall,

St. Johnsville,

350

Buel,

550

Canajoharie.

330

350

350

650

250

400

200

300

300

.300

20

Oliio.

GEAUGA COUNTY.

Rocky Dell

Factory-,

Bissell's

250

Spring Brook Factory,

■Welchfleld,

300

Andrews'

do

do

800

Grove

do

do

300

Bartlett's

do

Chester X Roads,

8011

Munson's

do

Fowler's

410

do

do

Mulberry Corners

,300

Pope's

do

"Welchfleld,

600

Hood's

do

Auburn,

500

Randall's

do

Burton,

700

Odell's

do

do

600

Hall's

do

Claridon,

400

Smitli'8

do

Ford,

600

Armstrong

do

East Claridon,

700

Freeman's

do

South Newberrj',

500

Smith & Co.'s

do

Parkman,

600

Hall's

do

Fowler Mills,

600

Armstrong's

do

Huntsburgh,

800

Murray's

do

Chardon,

800

Randall's

do

Montville,

800

Riindall's

do

do

-TOO

Murray's

do

do

500

Russell's

do

500

Smith's

do

Thompson.

506

Colton & Co.

do

Nelson,

PORTAGE COUNTY.

E. B. Higley, "Windham.
Horr & Risden, Shalersville,
H. S. Johnson, Garrettsville.
Hurd & Bro., Aurora.
T. C. Bradley, Mantua.
I. C. Scram, Ravenna.

H. F. Hudsou, Ravenna.
Beman Spring,
Hinkley's Mantua.
Burrows. Freedom.
Aurora Grove, Aurora.
Anderson's Ravenna.

LAKE COUNTY.

S. E. Carter, Lero}', Painesville, P. O.

H. N. Carter, Perry.

R. Freeman & Co., Madison.

Hitts, "Willoughby.

Bartlett & McKee, South Kirtland.

ASHTABULA COUNTY.

S. E. & H. N. Carter, "Windsor.
Lattimer's, New Lyme.
Osborne's, Morgan.
G. C. Dolph, "V^'est Andover.
Austinburgh, Austinburgh.
Morley Bros., Andover.

"Wire's, Austinburgh.
"Weldon & Brown, Conneaut.
Pierce's, Eagleville.
Harrington & Randall, Morgan.
Elderny, New Lyme.

250

400

500
800

300

400

TRUMBULL COUNTY.

T. M. Trew, Newton Falls.
B. H. Peabody, Kinsman.
Cold Spring. do

Caldwell & Lewis, W. Farmington.
Farmington Center.
E. C. Cox, Mesopotamia,
do N. Bloomfield.

HENRY COUNTY.

Ridgeville Factory, Ridgeville Corners.

FAIRFIELD COUNTY.

Royalton Factory, Royalton.

LORAIN COUNTY.

Baldwin's Fowler.

Cortland. Bazetta.

Raymond's Mesopotamia.

Cowdery & Crafts, Bazetta.

Sager & House, Bristolville.

harshman's & McConuell's Southington.

Camden Cheese Company, Kipton.
Mussey & Viets, Elyria.
Horr & "Warner, Huntington.
Magraugh & Whitlock, Wellington

Snows's Huntington.
G. H. "V\"agnen & Co., North Eaton.
Corning & Hance, Grafton.
Penfield, "V^^ellington.

MEDINA COUNTY.

McDowell Bros', Medina.

Fellows, Chatham,

Benedict and Brooker, Litchfield.

Crane & Co., Sharon.
Colbetzes & Co., Spencer.
Chatham, Chatham Center.

Twinslmrg Cheese Association
"Wui. "Wilcox, 'I'winsburg.
S. Straight & Co., Twinsburg.
do do Hudson.

Drake, Eaton & Co.'s, Sullivan.

Haviland Conant, Greenwich.
J. W. Jenne, New London.

A, J. Lockwood, Bedford.
J. Q. Lander, Solon.

SUMMIT COUNTY.

Twinsburg. Richfield, "W. Richfield.

; Straight & Co., St etsboro.
Oak Hill, Peninsula.
M. D. Call, Hudson.

ASHLAND COUNTY.

I Clark & Bailey, Sullivan.

HURON COUNTY.

I Wakeman Cheese Co., "Wakeman.

CUYAHOGA COUNTY.

I Wyait's, Breckville.

21

Illinois.

Hainesville Factory,

Burchard's do

Patterson & Mis do

Wm. Keeney's do

W. C. Richard's do

"W. A. Ciark's do

Wanzer & Co. do

R R. Stone's do

do do
Thompson & Ab-
bott do
Huntley Grove do
Marengo do
Greenwood do
Marsh & Jackson do
Boies do
Sugar Grove do
Dunton do
Keunicott do
Cameron do
Perry do
Williams do
Gould & Hammond' s do

Hainesville, Lake co.
Sumner,Kamk'kee co.
Momence, do 800
Mjintino, do 800

Momence, do 100
!Shcrbai-aville,do 200
Herman, Kane co.
Richmond, McHen-

ry CO. 800

Spring Grove,

Greenwood, do 500

Huntley, do 250

Marengo, do 300

Woodstock, do 300

Union, do 500

Kingston,DeKalb, 200

Aurora, 3i0

Dunton, 250

do 250

do 200

do 200

do 150

Hanover. 425

Gould & Ham-
mond's Factory,

Tuttle'8 do

Barber & Co. do

Albro & Co. do

Wiuslow do

Kilbor's do

Buckland's do

Jones' do

Conn's do

Woodstock do

Riley do

Buena Vista do

Spring Grove do
Garde'n Prairie do

Mead's do
Milk Condensing Co.
Rockton Factory,

Stuart Bros. do

Oneida do

Belvidere do

Hale do

Wanzer" 8 do

do do

Cameron do

Elgin, 425

Lodi, 350

Polo, 300

Wayne. 600

Shirland, 400

Richmond
Ringwood,
Heb'ron,

do
W'dstock,McH'nry co
Riley, do

Huntley. do 350

Richmond, do 300
Garden Prairie,
Hebron, 300

Elcin,

Rockton, 400

Hebron.McH'y co. 500
Rockford,

Belvidere, Boone co.
Hale, Ogle co.
Hanover,
Elgin,
Northfield.

Is/T assaotiusetts-

WorcesterCo. Factory,
Union do

New Braintree do
Barre Cent'l Cheese Co.
Barre Cheese Co.,
South West Factory,
Hardwick Center do
Boise's do

Williamstown do
West Brookfleld do
Lanesboro do

North Marlboro do
Lenox do

Hardwick Union do ■
Warren do

500

542

Warren,
Hardwick,
New Braintree,
Barre Center,
Barre, 375

do 125

Hardwick, 500

Blandford,
Williamstown,
West Brookfleld,
Lanesboro,
North Marlboro,
Lenox,
Gilbertsville,
Warren.

New Lenox Factory,
Cheshire do

Petersham Cheese Co.,
Cheshire do

Westboro do

Lewis Milk C. Factory,
Coy's Hill Cheese Co.,
S. Williamsfu Factory,
Walker's do

Dana C. M. C.
Putnam's do

Slater's do

Greylock do

Pierce's do

Greenfield do

Lenox,

Cheshire,

Petersham,

South Adams,

Westboro.

W. Brookfleld,

Warren, 300

S. Williamstown,

Greenwich,

Dana,

Belchertown,

Tyringham,

SouthAdams,

Peru.

Greenfield.

Vermont.

East Berkshire Factory,
Enosburgh Factory Co.
N. Eiiosburgh Factory,
East Franklm do

Middletown do

Rose do

West Pawlet do

Hill do

West Tinmouth do
Norton's do

Valentine's do

Otter Creek do

Billing's do

Sheldon's do

Wickham's do

Camp's do

M ssisquoi do

Gleason's do

East Berkshire,

Enosburgh,

N. Enosburgh.

East Franklin,

Middletown,

West Kupert,

West Pawlet,

Middletown,

Wet Tinmouth,

Wells,

Tinmouth,

Center Rutland,

Rutland.

West Rutland,

Pawlet,

Stowe,

North Sheldon,

Shrewsbury,

400
600
400
6C0
600
525
475
100

125
200

Mason's

Valley

East Poultney

Wallingford

Williams

Rutland

West Orwell

East Orwell

Hosford's

Milton

Milton Falls

Fcrrisburgh

New Haven

Shoreham

Union

Mankton Pond

Lewis Creek

Factory,
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do
do

Richmond, 80

Hinesburg, 550

East Poultney, 300

Wallingford,

Danby,

Rutland,

Orwell, 450

do 350

Charlotte, 350

Milton, ,
Milton Falls,
Ferrisburgh,
New Haven,
Shoreham,
Hinesburgh,

do

do

lo'wa.

Smith's Factory,
Hickling's do

Wyoming do

Clear Lake do

Mason City,

do
Wyoming, Jones Co.
Clear Lake,

Strawb'ryPt. Factory,
Kidder's do

Pierce's do

Fayette Co.
Epworth. Dubuque Co
Belmoud.

Isrorth Oarolina.

Elk Mountain Factorv. Buncomb Co.

22

"Wisoonsm.

C. H. Wilder' s

Factory,

Evansville,R'ckCo400

A. J. Smith's Factory,

Fon &.1 Lac, 75

Spriugvale

do

Nanaupa,

Ellsworth 8

do

Rosendale, 150

Eldredge

do

Afton, 200

•Johnson's

do

Kenosha,

Elkhorn

do

Elkhorn, 200

Long's

do

do

Rosendale

do

Ros'le, F.duLacCoSOO

Pierce & Simons

do

do

Hazen's

do

Ladoga, do 800

Truesdell's

do

do

Hazen & Co's

do

Brandon, 250

White's

do

do

t^parta

do

Sparta. 200

Ft. Atkinson

do

Ft. Atkinson,

Favil's

do

Lake Mills, Jeff. Co.

Spring Mills,

do

Somers,

Barrett's

do

Burnett Station.

Bullock's,

do

Rockton,

Coolidge

do

Windsor, Dane Co.

Cold Spring

do

Whitewater,

Wtiterville

do

Wat. vvaukeslia Co.

Coburn's

do

do

Boynton's

do

Waupan,

Drake's

do

Lake Mills,

Howard's

do

do 300

Gilbert & Co.'s

do

Hazel Green,

Johnson's

do

do

Tappan's

do

Morrison,

Downey's

do

do 175

Wilbur & Co.'s

do

Wilmont,

Carpenter's

do

Kenosha,

Strong & Co.'s

do

Oakfield,

Holt's

do

do

Cochran's

do

BeaverDam, Dodge

J. Comb's

do

Ripon, 300

Reigart & Ross

do

Beloit.

Hodge's

do

125

Fairley

do

Lake Mills,

D. Treleven's

do

Fond du Lac, 150

IvlioliigeLii.

St. Clair

Factory,

St. Clair,-

450

Mason

Factory,

Mason,

Fairfield

do

Fairfield,

700

Irish's

do

Grand Lodge,

Hortou's

do

Adrian,

Spring Brook

do

Farmington,

400

Hoadley's

do

Oakford,

Gilt Edge,

do

do

400

Saunder's

do

Trenton,

Ionia

do

Ionia

Smith's

do

Augusta,

Reading

do

Reading,

450

White's

do

Ceresco,

Fowler & Co.

's

do

do

Maple Grove

do

Farmingtou,

COO

Adrian C. M.

do.

do

Adrian,

Canton

do

Canton,

400

Ames'

do

Hudson,

Seal's

do

Rolliu,

'^awin's

do

Mattison,

Clayton

do

Clayton.

. Utica

do

Utica,

I sham's

do

Wellsville,

Walton's

do

No. Adams,

DeLano's

do

Oxford,

Hillsdale

do

Hillsdale.

IPennsvlveLiiia,.

Springville Factory, Springville, Susq. Co., 158
Bridgewater, do Bridgewater do 200

Gase do do do 200

Worth's do Marshalltown, Chester Co.

Damascus Creamery, Damascus, Wayne Co.
VVoodcock First Premium Factory, Woodcock,

Crawford Co.
Woodcock Boro' Creamery, Woodcock Boro',

('rawford, Co.
Keystone Factory, North Richmond, Crawford

Co.

Cook's Factory. Saegartowu.

Logan & Co.'s ^factory, Hartstown.

Venango do Venango, Crawford Co.

Cambridge do Rockdale. do

Ellis & Smith's do Waterford, Erie Co.

New Milford Creamery. N. M., Susq. Co., 200

Spring Hill Factor}', S. H., Bradford Co., 150

Earl's do Carthage.

Edinboro do Ediuboro.

Nash's do Crossingville.

Bentlcy & Co.'s do Randolph.

IMiiniiesota,.

Anderson Factory, Mower City,

Wells do Wells,

Star do Rochester.

Owatonua Factory, Owatona,
Havana do Havana,

Dodge City, do Dodge Citj'.

Virginia.

Holston B'actory, Saltville, Smith Co. | Old Dominion, Hamilton.

Hickory Grove Creamery, Foristell,

IX^issouri.

300 I Kcllog's

Factory, Cameron,

28
Tennessee.

Stratton's Factory, Crossville, Cumberland County.

]Ka,nsas.

Americus Factory, Americus.

Oonneotiout.

Eagle Cheese Company, North Colebrooke.

Indiana,.

L. B. Merrill's Factory, Merrillsvlllc. i Brockmau's Factory, Crown Point.

Canada.

Smith & Sou's, Norwich, Oxford Co., C.W.

Galloway's, Ingcrsoll, do

Josiah Collins, Mount Elgin, do

Moyer's West Zorra, do

Wade's, Coburg, do

Adams', Missouri, do

James Harris, Tngersoll, do

do Branch, Ingersoll, do

H. Farringtou's, Norwich, do

do

Branch, Norwich, do

Chas. Banbury's, St. Mary's do

Harris & Adams, Mt. Elgin, do

Scott's. Lobo, do

Ballard's, Norwichville, do

Ballantyne's, Sebringville, do

Ontario, Norwich, do

Pioneer, do do
E. Missouri Factory, Ingersoll, do

400
150
350
100
450
450
400
200
300
200
300
250

300
400
300
550

Helena Butter B'actory, Trout Run,
People's Factory, Norwich,

Lossing
Kearn's
Dodge's,
Silverthorn's,
Tho. Abram's
G. Dunkin's
Wm. Bailey's

do
do
do
do
do
do
do

Durham,
Oxford,

do

do

do

do

do

C. W.
do
do
do
do
do
do

Andrew Plckert.Lowville, Halton Co., do
Richard Carter. Brampton, Peel Co., do
Wilmont's, Milton, Hilton Co., do

Campbell's do do do

Cochrane's, Compton, C. E.,

Lawson's, Salford, Oxford Co., C. W.

Degeer's, Queensville,
Pearce, Tyconnell, Elgin Co.
Middlesex Factory, Bowood, C. W,

250
200
200
70
275
200
125
150
175
250
200
250
450

TR^isrs^OTioisrs

AT THE

NINTH ANNUAL CONVENTION

OF THE

AlERIOAI DAIE,TIEI['S ASSOOIATIOI,

HELD IN UTICA, N. Y.,

TUESDAY, WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY,

January ISth, Hth and 15th, 187Jf.

The convention assembled in Association Hall, and was called to
order by the President, Hon. Horatio Seymour, of Utica, N. Y., at 11
a. m.

On motion of S. A. Farrington, of Cattaraugus county, the chair
was empowered to appoint the usual committees.

The following committee on the order of business was then an-
nounced by the president, with the request that they meet at once and
proceed to business, and report at the opening of the afternoon session.

S. A. Farrington, of Cattaraugus ; E. T. Wickson, Oneida ; Hon.
Josiah Shull, Herkimer; F. Blanchard, Chautauque, and J. H Keall,
of Philadelphia.

Adjourned till 2 P. M.

TUESDAY AFTEKNOOK

The convention was called to order at the appointed hour, Mr. Sey-
mour in the chair. The committee on order of business, reported as
follows, through its chairman, Mr. Farrington : For

TUESDAY AFTERNOON.

0. S. Bliss, secretary of the Vermont Dairymmen's Association,
subject, " Butter-Making."

L. T. Hawley, of Syracuse, subject, " Making and Marketing
Butter."

26

TUESDAY EVENING.

H. C. Greene, of Pennsylvania, subject, " Butter-making in Cream-
eries."

0. 0. Blodget, secretary of the Western New York Butter-Maker's
Association, subject, " Butter-Making."

WEDNESDAY MOENING.

C. L. Sheldon, of Lewis county, subject, " Experiments in Cheese-
making."

William Blanding, of Broome county, subject, " Curing Cheese."
J. V. H. Scoville, of Oneida county, subject, " Scientific Agricultural
Education, and Experimental Farm."

WEDNESDAY AFTEENOON.

X. A. Willard, of Little Falls, subject, " Dairying and Grazing in
the West and South-west."

S. A. Farrington, of Cattaraugus county, subject, '' Testing Milk."
T. D. Curtis, of Sj'racuse, subject, " Fallacies in Cheese-making."

WEDNESDAY EVENING.

J. H. Eeall, of Pliiladelphia, subject, " General Interests of Dairy-
men."

B. B. Moon, of Herkimer, subject, " Sunday Cheese-making.

Eeception of Utica Dairymen's Board of Trade to the convention, at
Bagg's Hotel.

THUESDAY MOENING.

Edward J. Wickson, of the Ucica Herald, subject, ''Feeding at a
Mark."

Hon. Harris Lewis, of Herkimer, subject, " Milk."

Hon. Josiah Sliull, of Ilion, subject, " Cost of producing a pound of
cheese.

THUESDAY AFTEENOON.

Mr. Hunt, of Eome, subject, " Butter and cheese from the same
milk."

The opening paper was read by 0. S. Bliss, of Vermont, on Butter-
Makmg, as follows :

Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemen : — I am invited at this time to
discuss the specialty oi butter production, a subject which has always
been subordinated to other specialties in the conventions of this asso-
ciation, and one that I would gladly have been excused from again
presenting here, not because it is lacking for interest or importance,
not because it is not entirely worthy of my best efibrts, but because I
have so often and so inefiiciently presented the subject before. I rec-
ollect, when attending one of the earlier conventions of this associa-
tion, expressing surprise that this subject did not elicit so much as a
casual notice during the entire session. A gentleman occupying a

27

prominent position in the association replied : " Butter-making," said
he, " is a fixed science. Everybody knows all about butter-making ;
it is of no use to bring that subject up here." . And that, Mr. Presi-
dent, was the prevailing sentiment among dairymen throughout the
country at that time. It was not more characteristic of the dairymen
who came here to discuss cheese-making, than of those who staid at
home and made a specialty of butter-making. The apathy of butter-
makers was heart-sickening. The demand for better butter at higher
prices, or fancy prices, as many persons were disposed to call them,
was, however, beginning to make an impression here and there, and
butter-makers were beginning to inquire what they could do to so im-
prove upon their product as to enable them to supply that demand.
To feel the need of improvement in science or art, as well as in morals,
is the first step toward the improvement. The improvement in my
own section, the most popular butter region in New England, took its
first impulse from a very simple incident. I need not pause
here to review the improvements which have been made in the last five
or six years in this department, but I am confident they are far greater
than most persons would be willing to believe. I am told by leading
dealers that the average product at the joresent time is fully equal in
quality to the very best thrown upon the market not more than six or
seven years ago.

I have said that very marked progress has been made in this depart-
ment of dairy husbandry, despite the apathy and conceit of the mass
of butter-makers. It might be profitable to inquire how this
result has been attained, had we the data at hand upon which to pred-
icate an investigation. Unfortunately, however, the larger part of the
experiments and investigations which have been conducted with
especial reference to the subject, have been so loosely made, and so in-
definitely recorded, that but little good can result from any retrospec-
tive view of the subject. The data upon which theories and practices
have been founded, have frequently been found faulty or entireb' false,
though in many cases vouched for by men in Avhom we have had the
utniMst confidence. This is probably the result in most cases of ac-
cepting ai^pearances for facts. In illustration of this point I need only
refer to the contest that has been going on for several years upon
the subject of deep and sliallow setting of milk for the ])roduction of
butter. I do not know who first enunciated the theory that dee]) set-
ting affords as good results as sliallow, but I do know that it has been
indorsed by hundreds of men ; that many who now practice deep set-
ting are still its advocates ; and yet I have never known a case where
thorough and careful experiments have been conducted, that has given
results confirmatory of the theory. Any number of test glass exiDeri-
ments and experiments in the dairy too, have shoAvn that just as
mucli or more cream can be raised when the milk is set deei:) as when
set shallow, and upon such experiments the theory of deep setting is
founded. But when the cream has been put into the churn and made
into butter the result has, in every case of which I can find a record,
shown the theory entirely erroneous. There is no standard for cream,
and we call it cream all the same whether it contains '"25 per cent, or 75
per cent, of butter. When raised upon deep vessels it is more dilute, and
contains less butter than when raised upon shallow ones, and we per-
mit ourselves to be imposed upon by false appearances, and, instead of

28

probing the matter to the bottom and getting at the facts, we accept
the appearance for the fact, and pass it to our neighbors as such.

Lacking, then, the data for a profitable retrospect, I invite your at-
tention to a few suggestions upon the subject — not, liowever, in the
form of an exhaustive essay or discussion of the subject, but rather in
the nature of desultory propositions intended to elicit discussion, and
incite to experiment.

I repeat the remark which I have often made here, that the produc-
tion of good butter has never been equal to the demand, and that there
is no prospect that it will be so during this or the next generation.
With all the tremendous stimulus which cheese production has re-
ceived in the past fifteen years, and with all the stimulus to the pro-
duction of good, and fancy, and gilt-edged butter, the dairy interest as
a whole, in this country, has not kept pace in its growth with the in-
crease of population. According to the census of 1870, there are in
this country in its entirety over 4^ persons to each milch cow, without
any reference to whether she is employed in the dairy or runs at large,
affording only the milk to feed her own oifspring. In 1850, there were
only about 3^ persons to each cow. It is probable, however, that the
dairy products at the two periods would show much less discrepancy.
It would most certainly be very discreditable to us, with all the im-
provements which we claim to have made, if such were not the case.
And, yet, when we come to go abroad over the land, and see how very
few of the cows, as compared with the great whole, are of improved
breeds, or of the highest order of the common breed, we cannot see
very much reason for supposing that the increase in the average
product per cow of the unmanufactured material, has been very con-
siderable. But it is asserted, .and there are many good reasons for
believing that the assertion is well founded, that the consumption of
dairy products by the American people, per capita, has largely in-
creased, and we have the most indubitable evidence that the exporta-
tion has also increased. If these premises are correct, by the simplest
arithmetical process, we reach the inevitable conclusion that by better
methods of manipulation, we are able to get much larger returns from
the same amount of the raw material than heretofore. To cut a long
story short, we may as well concede at once that these improved
methods of manipulation are chiefly the result of the interest incited
by the investigations and discussions of the members of this and kin-
dred organizations in this country. May we not, however, without the
appearance of being hypercritical, suggest that we are giving, relatively,
too much attention to the manipulation of the raw material to the
neglect of the principles whicli underlie its production. It seems to
me that such is the case, and I have not reached this conclusion has-
tily. I think we have discussed the theories of manipulation until we
can afford, for a time at least, to remand this whole feature of the bus-
iness to the experimenters, while we take up and investigate the sub-
ject of producing the milk from which the butter is to be made. I
am aware that the theory prevails that only in certain favored locali-
ties can butter, of anything like a fair quality, be made at all, and I
have often heard it said by men, who, in many respects, are accepted
as authority in all that pertains to the dairy interest, that good butter
cannot be made in the most popular cheese producing counties of this
State. I know the whole theory of the " dairy belt," and of the cli-
matic and other " limitations to successful dairying," and yet I reiterate

29

the statement, which I have on several occasions heretofore made upon
this floor, that good butter can be profitably produced wherever good
beef or good cheese can. My position has been ably controverted
here, and yet, with wider observation and more extended opportunity
for investigation, I am more than ever confirmed in that opinion ; and
not only am I confirmed in the opinion, but I learn that others, who
have in the past been active promoters of a counter theory, are begin-
ning to concede all, and even more, than I have ever claimed on this
point. That some soils are more natural to the production of butter
than others, none will deny. That such soils, clothed with indigenous
or cultivated herbage, though in limited areas, do exist as models for
the study and imitation of all farmers who have the necessary enter-
prise and intelligence to succeed in business, is one of the most marked
evidences of the beneficence of the Creator. Man was sent forth to
" till" the ground, not simply to stretch forth his hand and eat what
he might find growing upon it. To gather what only grows sponta-
neously, and to cultivate only such crops as are indigenous to the soil,
are characteristic of the savage state. To adapt the soil to the suc-
cessful and profitable production of such articles as are demanded by
a higher civilization, and make two blades of grass grow where but one
grew before, are not only evidence of enlightened progress, but abso-
lutely essential conditions to such progress.

A farmer of ordinary tact and skill, who desires to enter upon the
profitable production of butter, recognizing the necessity of adapting
himself, his farm and his a})pliances especially to the business, will
study the peculiarities of the establishment, where the business is
already successfully conducted, and apply suitable remedies to any de-
fects in his own. Only such men as are willing thus to merit success,
can reasonably hope for it. To expect to gather grapes from thistles,
or figs from thorns, would not be more unreasonable tban to expect to
make good butter without making suitable provision for it.

The amateur farmer complained that all his land was Avrongside up,
and had to be turned over before he could get a good crop. That is
too often the case with our dairy farms ; few, very few of them even in
the "most favored regions are in the best, or even in suitable condition
for the most profitable butter production. The theory that the quality
of the food does materially aflect the quality of the milk, that is to say
— the relative proportions of butter and cheese — is unquestionably
correct, but that it does very sensibly affect the quality and the tex-
ture, and the flavor of butter, is equally true. It is true, more-
over, that the abstract quality of butter is very largely att'ected by
the quantity and the quality of the food consumed by the cow. I am
confident that very great and important improvements will yet be
made in this respect, as we learn to experiment more exactly and
thoroughly. Indeed I think we are upon the very brink of a very
great reformation in the feeding of our dairy stock. Go where we
may, up and down the country, the evidence accumulates that the
highest excellence, and the greatest profit are attained, only on the
best drained, and the best cultivated lands. Adopt what subterfuges
we may, and evade the issue as we can, I believe it is fairly upon us,
that thorough drainage and thorough culture are destined to do
more toward the elevation and improvement of the dairy interest, but
more especially this branch of it, during the next decade than any and
all other appliances. I believe the majority of dairy f\irmers would be

30

better off to-day to sell one-half of their farms and invest the proceeds
in improving by drainage and cultivation, the other half, chiefly with
a view to improving the quality of their product.

Upon nearly every dairy farm in the country, however excellent in
the main, there is somewhere in the pasture or runway, one or more
noisome sloughs or swales where, during the long drought which we
are sure to get, as often as two summers out of three, the cows eat
enough coarse ill-flavored herbage to aff'ect the flavor and perhaps the
color of the butter. They resort here, too, in fly time, and often after
standing in the mud and filth for an hour or two, turn around and
sup up the slough water charged with various forms of impurity
which are certain to make their mark on the milk and butter. It is
idle to argue that an abundance of good water elsewhere will obviate
these evils, cows frequently acquire morbid appetites, aud prefer the
filthy to pure water. There is but one way to guard against the
evil,"and that is to remove the temptation wholly and entirely. To
put a few rods of drain tile into such a place and then draw off the
water and then to burn oft' the coarse swale grass and weeds, and har-
row it over thoroughly and sow on a mixture of pasture grass seed, or
even of June grass alone, which is of all others the one most valuable
grass for the production of butter, at an expense of a very few dollars,
so few as hardly to be missed, will sometimes have a most striking
eflect upon the quality of the product of a whole dairy. Nor is that
the onlv advantage. It will produce enough more and better feed to
pay the whole expense in a very short time. It is not always necessary
to resort to thorough drainage in order to relieve pastures of their more
obnoxious features in this respect, but it is necessary in that manner,
or by open ditches, or in some other way, to remove all sloughs of
stagnant and pool water, and the vegetation that grows out of such, in
order to be entirely sure that the butter produced shall be tine flavored
and of good texture, especially when the cows are by reason of drought,
forced into them for either food or drink. I have known instances
when the laying of 30 or 40 rods of tile has converted an acre of land
that was a nuisance, a pest, an eye sore, into an acre of most valuable
land, and supplied a herd of 40 cattle with all the pure water they
wanted to drink in the dryest season. (The butter produced from
hay and grain grown upon drained land, is also better in every res-
pect than that produced from the fodder grown upon undrained land.)
This is especially true of the texture of the butter. I have several
times, in this connection, alluded to the texture of butter, and it
may seem to some of my hearers that I am laying undue stress upon
that. Such is not the case. The quality of butter is very largely de-
pendent upon texture — in fact, texture constitutes quality, and the
quality of the food consumed by the cow has fully as much to do with
it as with the aroma. Butter may have an excellent and entirely sat-
isfactory aroma, and yet, if greasy, salvy and lacking texture, it will
be deficient in flavor — will lack that especially delicious "quality
which gratifies the palate."

But I need not detain you to enumerate the advantages which re-
sult from a system of thorough drainage and thorough culture, but
will sum them up in the general statement that I have never known
a judicious attempt to adapt a farm, by drainage and cultivation, to
the profitable production of good butter, that has not proved a suc-
cess. I would not be understood as taking the very radical position,

81

however, that all lands need draining, but think, nevertheless, that a
much larger proportion of all need it, than the mass of farmers are
willing to believe. Nor is the drainage such a tremendous bugbear as
most farmers believe it. Let them begin with tlie worst places first,
and follow the system up, year by year, till all the land which needs
it is drained, and in nine cases out of every ten it will be found that
the drainage has paid for itself before it is finished. Many a field has
paid for its drainage in the second crop, and in the third or fourth
has paid for draining another of its own size.

Upon a thoroughly drained farm there will be at the same time less
occasion and more opportunity for the successful cultivation of soiling
crops. This subject — soiling — has elicited moi'e or less attention
at most of our meetings here, and I do not propose to enter
upon its discussion at this time, farther than to say that for the pro-
duction of butter forage, additional to that gathered in the pasture by
the cow herself, should be dried or partially dried before being fed.
Pasture grasses are short, sweet and luscious, being chiefly leaves of
grasses instead of stalks, but soiling plants are all, in their green state,
too succulent, and the juices are immature and not in the chemical
condition necessary to healthful digestion. Drying not only removes
superfluous water, but it tends to aid digestion by breaking down and
ripening the sap and adapting it to that process. Upon this subject
there is much that is inexplicable and not understood. We know that
many kinds of grain and grass and straw, and we infer that all kinds
are more healthful and nutritious according to the period of time
which has elapsed from their harvesting. Old oats, old corn and old
hay are more nutritious and more lattening than new, and animals
will do more work upon them, and cow^s will produce more butter
from them. I am aware that these statements do not accord with the
prevailing ideas upon this subject, but they are facts nevertheless. I
suppose when a farmer is carrying his milk to the factory to be ac-
counted for by the quantity without any reference to the quality, he
will justify himself in extending his milk as much as possible by the
nse of any and every kind of green food and slops; but if tlie most
and best butter is what he is after he will avoid everything of the kind.

I have not sufficient knowledge of the business to speak advisedly
upon the subject of steamed or cooked food, but unless it is cooked
quite dry, it is not probable that any particular advantage will result.
1 know from experiment that dry shipstufts and meals are better than
wet. The chopping or chaffing of dry fodder and mixing it with
pulped mangold and meal or bran, and laying it away in messes for a
few days till it begins to develop heat, is an economical, and I believe a
most excellent method of preparing food for a butter dairy. The mass
becomes homogeneous, and is eaten more freely, and digested more
perfectly than when fed in separate parcels. If it is necessary to give
the cows any fodder of a low quality, it can as well be hidden here as
in the steamed mass, especially if the mass is left till it gets quite
warm. I believe in giving cows all the food they will eat. We hear a
great deal about the evils of over-feeding and "pampering," but ac-
cording to the best information I can get, there are a thousand that
are not fed enough Avhere one is over-fed. It is always wiser to use a
machine to its full capacity, and when it is used up to get another,
than to keep it along to rust out. I would not be understood that
there is no such thing as over-feeding. Of course I would not argue

39

for indiscriminate stuffing with rich food, but I do insist that there is
no such thing as over-feeding with an appropriate food.

An abundance of clean water is necessary for cows, but I have yet to
learn that "pure soft water" is any better than "hard limestone
water" for a butter dairy. The cows may relish one kind better than
the other, but I think that is much with them as with the human
family, the result of habit.

Mr. Hawley, of Onondaga — I would inquire the reader's experience
in feeding dry food. I have heard a different theory on that subject.
I have heard that dry food goes directly to the fourth stomach, and
hence is not properly digested.

Mr. Bliss — The same objections are advanced against wet as dry
food. Where do slops go to ?

Mr. Moon, of Herkimer — The gentleman objected to wet food, and
yet advises further on in his paper, to feed wet food.

Is not this a little mixed ? He objects to feeding slops and wet
food, and yet recommends mixing meal and cut hay with pulped or
sliced roots, and letting the whole stand till it becomes moist. I have
found it advantageous not only to wet the meal and cut feed, but to
let them lay heaped up till they begin to heat.

Mr. Bliss — In the case of roots, meal, and hay, the moisture is not
enough to do any harm. They do not become warm. I know that
dry meal gives more butter than the same in slops. My experience is
largely in favor of dry fodder.

Mr. Curtis, ol Onondaga — The reason why food goes to the fourth
stomach is because of its fineness. Concentrated food should be
mixed with coarse fodder.

The point is to get the fine and coarse food mixed, rather than their
wet or dry condition. They then go together into the first stomach.

Mr. Scoville, of Oneida — Is cut food more economical than other
kinds ?

Mr. Bliss — I think it is. Dr. Sturtevant, of Massachusetts, says
the simple cutting of the fodder increases its feeding capacity some 20
per cent.

Dr. AVight, of Oneida — I understand Mr. Bliss to say that dry fodder
is the best. I would ask is it best for producing milk ?

Mr. Bliss — It is.

Dr. Wight — I inferred from Avhat was said that the older the fodder
the better ; but I think there should be some restriction. Is hay two
years old, better than hay one year old ?

Mr. Bliss — I think it is, if it is in good preservation. I know that
old oats are best, and corn three years old is excellent.

Mr. Curtis — Mr. Bliss says the older the oats or corn, the more pork
or butter it will produce. Is this fact not due to the drying out of the
moisture, and hence the obtaining of more fodder?

Mr. Bliss — I argue that the juice in the stalks of plants is injurious
to butter making, so that if it becomes necessary to feed any stalk food,
it is better to dry it.

Mr. Hawley — This is rather a strange doctrine, and seems to conflict
with the general experience of dairymen, who find that young and ten-
der grass makes the most and best butter and cheese, and is still very
succulent. I have always regarded any green grass as succulent food,
and have supposed it to be better than when dried. Does Mr. Bliss

33

mean to say that my impressions are wrong in this matter ? and that
dry food is the best ?

Mr. Bliss — I use the term succulent, to signify excessive juiciness in
plants : grass and the leaves of plants generally, would not be compre-
hended under the term. The leaves of green corn I ^ould not con-
sider succulent, but I would regard the stalk, which contains an ex-
cess of unripe sap, as succulent food, and better fed dry than green.

Mr. H. Farrmgton, of Canada West — We all see that straw is taking
the place of hay. 1 do not understand about meal going to the fourth
stomach. I think there is a misunderstanding about this, for I am
feeding straw as a coarse fodder, and about two quarts of dry joea or
oat meal to each cow, and the cows are all doing well.

Mr. Hunt, of Madison — My plan of feeding is three pecks of potatoes
in the morning, not quite a quart of meal, and a little hay each. In
the evening each cow gets a quart of meal and a little more hay.

Mr. Curtis — I would like to make a suggestion with reference to
feeding meal. It is better to feed it dry than wet, for the animal is
thus compelled to masticate it. The reason of the passage of food un-
digested into the fourth stomach, is from a lack of gastric juice.

Mr. Arnold, of Rochester — I commenced feeding meal in a similar
manner to that of Mr. Farrington, of Canada. The result was excel-
lent. Then I threw the meal on wet straw, and fed it, and the result
was better. Then I discontinued, and the cows fell back to their
original condition.

This experiment was repeated several times with like results. By a
series of experiments in fe.eding animals just before they were to be
slaughtered, I found that the meal when fed alone, always went directly
to the fourth stomach, and that when fed mixed with coarse food, it
went into the first. I have found that in feeding, both for milk and
beef, that my cows could eat more meal when mixed, without produc-
ing scouring, than when fed alone, because it is, by going into the first
stomach, more easily and thoroughly digested. It is the undigested,
or raw meal that produces scouring. I found that my cows could di-
gest more meal when fed mixed, than when fed alone.

Mr. Hawley — Mr. Hunt's use of potatoes, corresponds with my
views of their good qualities for feeding cows. 1 think they are un-
dervalued.

Mr. Bliss — I don't know aboub meal going to the fourth stomach.
Tlie offal of cows under the microscope, where two quarts of meal had
been fed, did not reveal any meal.

Mr. Arnold — A small quantity of meal passing directly into the
fourth stomach may be perfectly digested, or so far altered as not to be
recognized as meal in the offal, but when a larger quantity of meal was
fed, it would appear distinctly in the offal. I have proved this by care-
ful inspection.

A member — How much meal may be fed alone, without loss in
digestion ?

Mr. Arnold — That Avill depend on tlie size and constitution of the
animal. Kative cows, of medium size, will digest two quarts of corn
meal so fully that it will disappear in the offal, but if fed mixed, the
result will show better in the milk. A cow that can digest two
measures of meal when eaten alone, will digest' three when mixed.

Mr. Farrington — I have heard it argued as a good way to feed horses,
U> have their hay or straw cut and wet, and their ground food mixed

34

with it, as this new doctrine recommends for cows ; but I did not
know that it was on account of any peculiarity of the stomach. I
suppose the advantage, if any, arose from some other circumstance.
How is this with regard to horses ? Are they as much benefited as
ruminants ? I, would like to be enlightened on this point.

Mr. Curtis explained the formation of the stomachs of ruminants
and non-ruminants. In the former, there are four compartments, in
the latter, one. The natural course of food in the former, is to fall
into the first apartment, which is the largest one, and which serves as
a temporary receptacle, where it is soaked and softened, and slightly
fermented. From the first division it goes to the second, and from
the second, to the mouth, for re-mastication, and thence to the third
apartment, to the action of which it is for a long time subjected.
From the third it goes directly to the fourth, where the work of diges-
tion is completed. The work which is divided between these four di-
visions in the ruminant, is all done in a single sack in the non-
ruminant. It would be the same to the horse, whether fed mixed or
alone, if all other circumstances are equal. But to feed a cow with
food in such a shape that it will fall into the last division only of her
compound stomach, and miss the other three, is to cut off such food
from the aid that nature designed the other parts of the stomach to
render in the labor of digestion, and hence it is not so rapidly or
thoroughly done.

Mr. Moon, of Herkimer — I allow the hay, straw and meal mixed and
wet, to remain twelve hours before feeding.

Mr. Arnold — The digesting process is hastened by feeding moist
meal. The point is to make the cow digest as much as possible. I
used cold water, but warm would have been better.

Mr. Bonfoy — I thought it was always advantageous to wet very dry
hay.

Mr. Arnold — My experiment showed an increase in the quantity of
butter and cheese.

Mr. Farrington — Are your pastures, Mr. Bliss, composed of June
grass entirely, or of white clover and June grass mixed.

Mr. Bliss — I cannot speak understandingly about that; but I can
say that June grass pastures always produce the best butter.

A paper was then read by Mr. L. T. Hawley of Onondaga, on
" Making and Marketing Butter." It was as follows :

For the production of butter there are many ways. The two prin-
cipal ones only will I treat, viz. : One from cream, and the other from
all the milk. Both are claimed to produce superiority in quality. But
the latter may well produce some six per cent, more in quantity. The
churning in either mode should be slow. The time for churning
cream in warm weather should be from an hour to an hour and a
quarter, and that of all the milk from three to four hours. The fol-
lowing is in part a quotation of an article of mine published in 1867 :
The manufacture of a perfect article of butter requires that everything
connected with it should be done with neatness, and at the proper
time. The first thing of importance is the selection of cows noted for
the richness, rather than the abundance of their milk. The next
requisite is to keep them in good, healthy condition, by good pasture
and plenty of pure water. Cows should not be allowed to drink from

35

putrid or stagnant ponds. The milking should be done when the cow
is in a natural state, and not overheated from any cause, in a clean
yard or shed, free from decaying vegetables or other matter giving
rise to offensive odors. If the cow's bag is not clean, it should be
made so, and the hands of the milker should be both clean and dry.
The practice of wetting the hands when milkmg, either in milk or
water, is most pernicious.

All the utensils of the dairy should be kept thoroughly clean at all
times, as anything left from the milk, cream or buttermilk possessing
nitrogenous matter, is liable to be effected by the slightest influence,
and will not fail to impart to the neutral fats of which butter is com-
posed, its injurions influence.

Milk should be kept in a clean, cool place, and free from all odors
emitted from drains, swill pails or tubs, and decaying matter which
has a strong smell. Skim as soon as the milk is slightly soured, and
churn immediately at a temperature of from fifty-five to sixty-four,
and varying with the state of the atmosphere. In small dairies,
where churning is not convenient every day, the cream should be kept
at a temperature of 50 degrees, and stirred up as often as new cream
is added to it. New cream should not be mixed with old just before
churning. Drain off the buttermilk with as little handling as possi-
ble, and then wash (with pure soft cold water if attainable,) from the
butter every remaining particle of milk, working it slightly between
the washings. From two to three washings will cleanse it. When the
working is perfected, salt with Onondaga factory filled dairy salt at
the rate of one ounce to the pound, more or less, varying with the
amount of water in the butter at the time of salting in warm weather.
Set the butter in a cool, clean place until the next morning, and then
work it over, adding more salt if needed, being careful not to overwork
so as to break the grain. Overworking makes butter salvy, and more
liable to become rancid. In cold weather pack immediately after work-
ing and salting.

The milk of a dairy should be strained into one large vessel and
thoroughly stirred before being put into pans, so that the cream may
be taken from the milk at the same time.

Having examined carefully the various directions for making butter
for the last 20 years, I discover but little to be added to what has been
already said and published.

Professor Caldwell, in his essay on the causes of fermentation and
putrefaction before this association, proved that the immediate cooling
of milk, as soon as drawn from the cow, was sure to prolong its sweet-
ness. And also another important fact that it is necessary to use
boiling water for the last cleansing of all vessels for holding milk.

The perfect preservation of butter is of equal importance with its
perfect manufacture, and depends very much of it, if not wholly, in
the manner in which it is packed, and the condition of the tubs and
firkins. None but perfectly air-tight firkins, at least one-third heavier
than the usual make, should be used for packing. To neutralize the
odor and sap of the wood, and to drive from the c^lls of tbc wood the
air which taints the butter, tbe firkins ought to be thoroughly soaked
in hot brine made from the same kind of salt with which the"butter is
cured, and not used over and over again until the bitter taste of the
wood has destroyed the use of the brine, but thrown away after each
firkin is salted. After the firkin is thus prepared, pack the butter sol-

36

idly, putting on the top of it a clean white cloth, and cover the cloth
with a layer of the same kind of salt used in salting, about an inch in
thickness. Fill to the top of the salt with saturated brine, and place on
top of the tub a clean flat stone. Then put the butter in a dry cellar hav-
ing no connection with'any vegetable or other matter that imparts odor.
If removed to market to be sold, as the price shall warrant involving
its storage, the firkin or tub should be placed in a barrel_, and sur-
rounded with salt. In this way you can preserve it from the efiects of
hot weather, unventilated storehouses, and damp cellars, and keep it
sweet, (if well made,) for years.

In the paper read, was an article giving the mode of making butter
from suet, which was listened to with interest by the convention.

Mr. Bonfoy asked which was better, fast or moderate cooling.

Mr. Hawley thought cooling rather slow was most desirable, and re-
ferred to Mr. Arnold, whose experiments showed slow cooling to be
best for quality of milk.

Mr. Bonfoy referred to Professor Caldwell, who took the ground that
milk which was cooled the soonest, would keep the longest.

Mr. Hawley — My idea is that you can cool milk as fast as you can
milk it, by having your cans properly fixed.

Mr. Greene, of Pennsylvania — I am aware that a great deal of water
used in cooling milk at our factories is wasted. The water only cools
the top and bottom. We need a more rapid cooling. I do not believe
in cooling milk instantly, but we will not cool it too rapidly with
spring water. If we cool milk too rapidly, we retard the progress of
maturity. I believoi in cooling milk as rapidly as it is milked, with
spring water. I advise cooling from the bottom.

Mr. Hawley — I find that the cooling process is fastest from the top.
I find that cooling is done in large masses. When milk is drawn a
long distance it should be thoroughly cooled, and it should be cooled
from the top. The cooling of milk as it comes from the cow, is very
desirable. I advise moderate stirring of the milk.

Mr. S. A. Farrington — I do not think that it is the cooling so much
as the airing of milk that is to be considered. We depend too much
upon the cooling by factorymen, when it should have first been aired
by the patron. Cooling will not rid it of impurities,

Mr. Munson, of Delaware county — I have somewhere seen that the
cooling of milk for butter must not be commenced until it can be
placed at rest for the rising of the cream. The fact of its being once
cooled and warmed again, injures it for butter-making, it is argued. I
wish to understand whether we are not confounding the manufacturing
of butter with that of cheese.

Mr. Hawley — There is no necessity of heating milk if you keep a
cool cloth around it.

Mr. Greene — I do not see any difierence between the manufacturing
of butter and that of cheese, as regards this question. Milk can be
cooled better at the dairy than at the factory.

Mr. Arnold — The circumstances in cooling milk for butter and
cheese are diflFerent. The odor in milk is condensable in a liquid form.
By driving ofi" the vapor with heat, it can be condensed again into a
volatile oil, with a slight color. At 60 degrees it becomes solid. If we
take milk from the cow, and cool it to 55 degrees, we have the oil in
the milk to do its mischief. It is necessary, therefore, to let the

37

milk be above sixty for some lime to allow the odor to escape,
have known cases where milk was cooled in twelve hours time, that it
would keep sixty hours. Again, cream will rise more rapidly when the
milk is kept warm. If you cool the milk down to oo" there are some
portions of the cream that do not rise. Another advantage is that
fats expand more by heat than does water. Hence they will be kept
down when cool, by the friction of the thick portions of the milk. If
a system could be 'invented to raise the temperature of the milk to
ISQo and then cool, the odor would nearly all escape, and the cream
nearly all rise. The speaker gave a very interesting experiment that
he made to test this point. Three pans of milk were used. One was
placed upon the snow, the other kept in the milk-room, and the third
heated. The last pan showed a comjilete rise of the cream, and es-
cape of the animal odor. The other two showed the presence of animal
odor, and a retarding in the rise of the cream. The pan placed upon
the snow showed very little cream, and a strong animal odor. Other
odors in the milk it was claimed may be driven off by heating.

Mr. X. A. Willard read an English circular of the prices of butter
brought into London. The Swedish make was the highest. This
method adopts the cooling of milk with ice-water. The cooling
is done immediately after the milk is brought to the factory.

Mr. Stewart, of the American Agriculkirist — I do not think it is so
much the cooling of the milk as it is the feeding that makes the Swe-
dish butter higher priced. I think that the heating of milk is advisa-
ble. I would like to say a word concerning artificial butter. I inter-
viewed that thing in New York. The stuff" is hot butter ; does not taste
like butter. It is granular and gritty. It gets the butter flavor from
the sour milk. They who sell the stuff as butter, are liable to the law
against fraud. I do not advise you to sell your cows and go to making
butter from the suet of oxen. [Applause.]

Mr. Curtis and Mr. Bliss both agreed with Mr. Stewart in this
matter. Mr. Bliss thought that the favorable reception of suet butter
came from the perverted taste of those who eat it. He did not think it
very dangerous to butter-makers.

Mr. Greene — Does Mr. Hawley advocate the salting of butter with
brine ?

Mr. Hawley — 1 did not advocate it, although I think it is a o-ood
plan.

Mr. Greene — I do not think it is the best plan. The use of brine
does not retain the salt in the butter. The salt should dissolve after
the packing of tlie butter. The use of brine gives no chance for any
salt to dissolve. Butter-buyers like to see the sweat upon the trier.

Mr. Hawley — Butter should never be worked with the hands. Salt-
ing in the brine gives it a fairer appearance to the New York buyer.
In the making of butter I would again advise cleanliness.

Mr. F. Blanchavd, of Chautauqua — Tiiere is comparatively but a
small quantity of prime butter in the State of New York. This sub-
ject of cleanliness is talked about year in and year out, and yet dairy-
men do not make good butter. We know how, but do not live up to
our knowledge. Money is what every farmer is after. If we do as
well as we know how to do, we shall make more money.

Mr. J. H. Reall, of Philadelphia — I think that the gentleman is mis-
taken in the amount of good butter made. There is mure good butter
made in this country than in any other country. The best butter sold

38

in London brings 34 cents. We get 45 cents for good butter here. If
foreign butter is better than ours, why not import it here ? We ought
to take some credit to ourselves, and then try to do better.

Mr. F. Blanchard — If I had been from any other State I should not
have dared to say what I did. I think that New York State is the
best butter State in the Union ; but I feel that we need drumming up.
I still maintain that there is not enough prime butter made by us.

Mr. Eeall — I believe in doing the best you can, but not in looking for
imaginary evils in the matter.

Mr. Hawley— There is a useless loss of 820,000^000 by dairymen in
this State from not making butter properly.

Mr. Blanchard — If every dairyman in the State would live up to his
knowledge, every mortgage on every farm in the State would be raised.

Mr. Curtis — I wish to ask what is the reason that butter is some-
times gritty. It has occurred to me that salting with brine
might do away with this. Another point I wish to make is the pack-
ing of butter. It should be as nearly air tight as possible. I recom-
mend a covering of salt on the top of the tub ; or leaving room in the
tub for brine.

Mr. Bliss said that, at the Vermont convention, a delegate stated
that some butter he had seen placed upon one stone of the cellar, was
tainted, while some butter placed at the same time upon a second
stone, was in good condition.

Mr. Stewart — Even in a well-cemented floor there is an earthy ema-
nation from the bottom of the cellar.

Bad air is heavier than pure, and falls to the bottom of a room or
cellar. One tub being elevated, stood in pure air, while the one on the
cellar bottom stood in foul air, and this made the difference in keeping,

Mr. Hawley referred to the cellar of the late Zadock Pratt. It was
as sweet smelling as any parlor.

A member — It is a good plan to salt cream that is not to be churned
while fresh. It prevents change, and does no harm, as it works out in
the buttermilk.

Mr. Hunt — Salt with coarse salt if you want to feel grit, and, (turn-
ing to Mr. Hawley,) and if you want it to keep, salt with Ashton,
[Cheers.]

Mr. Hawley sprung to the floor in defense of Onondaga salt. There
was no salt any purer. Salt was the same everywhere. It was chlo-
ride of sodium the world over, and nothing else. Salt became objec-
tionable from what was mingled with it, and Ashton salt was more ex-
posed to impurities than some others. He referred to the experiment
of dividing the butter at each churning, and salting one part with
Ashton, the other with Onondaga F. F., the butter in the several
dairies thus tested being equal, as decided by judges, who knew nothing
of the salting.

Preference in the use of salt is to a great extent a matter of fancy.
The English go to France to get their best salt. The French to the
Meditterranean, and the Yankees to England.

Mr. Blanchard — Mr. Hawley, do you advocate working butter but
once?

Mr. Hawley — In Cold weather.

Mr. Hunt — I think that the grit iound in butter is due to the use of
coarse salt.

The convention took a recess until seven o'clock in the evening.

39

EVENING SESSION.

The convention was called to order by Vice-president Gardner B.
Weeks of Syracuse. The presiding officer read the following list of
committees :

Committee on Nominations — T. D. Curtis, of Syracuse ; H. C.
Greene, of Pennsylvania; 0. S. Bliss, of Vermont; W. W. Fitch, of
Oneida ; H. H. Brayton, of Herkimer.

On Finance — B. B. Moon, of Herkimer ; T. H. Kenyon, of Virginia;
T. H. Thompson, of Pennsylvania.

On Exhibition of Dairy Utensils — L. L. Wight, of Oneida; J. G.
Calioe, of Chautauqua ; A. M. Gray, of Herkimer.

After the reading, a paper from H. C. Greene, of Pennsylvania, was
announced in order, but Mr. Greene was absent at the moment.

To till the hiatus in the programme, Mr. J. H. Reall volunteered to
read some extracts from an article in Harper's Magazine, concerning
^' Dairying in California." The reading was listened to with interest.

Mr. Greene, of Pennsylvania, entertained the convention with the
following interesting address on

BUTTER-MAKING IN CREAMERIES,

Mr. President : — In responding to the invitation of your secretary
to address this convention briefly upon some topic relating to butter-
making, I regret only that I am not able to treat my theme more fully
and concisely, and, therefore, more profitably. I congratulate myself
on being enabled to enjoy the privilege of listening to the discussions
of this body, and hope to profit by what I may hear. It is no small
sacrifice that is made by the members of the American Dairymen's As-
sociation in their annual pilgrimage to this city, for a grand reunion,
for mutual interchange of ideas, for mutual profit, and for extending
and strengthening the basis of one of the most important of American
industries.

There is a class of manufiicturers who do not need the assistance of
the American or any other dairymen's association. They have at-
tained to the length and breadth, the bight and depth of their art ;
and what care they for the science ? For them there is nothing more
to learn. In their estimation, tlie theories, the science, the wis-
dom, and the counsels of the most enlightened, pass for naught. The
interchange of views by practical men is a mere waste of words, and
they would not go across the street to attend any dairymen's conven-
tion. We have conversed with too many of this class. No doubt wis-
dom and the mysteries of our art will die with them.

The merits of butter compared with cheese, as a source of profit, should
be carefully and thoroughly considered. During the two or three seasons
last past, there has seemed to be in some sections a growing disposition
to shrink from butter-making, and turn more exchisively to cheese-
making. This feeling arose from the fact that the demand for fall
skim cheese failed to keep pace with the supply, and it therefore de-
clined in value to a very low figure. This declension of prices was
due in a great measure to the inferior quality of a large proportion of
the make.

For many years I have been favorable to creameries, and notwith-
standing the apparent tide setting against them in some quarters, I

40

still have an unshaken faith that it is profitable to make butter and
skim cheese. (To what extent milk should be skimmed must, how-
ever, depend upon the relative prices of the two products.) When the
production of each is rightly balanced, and other conditions corres-
pond, [there is a pretty uniform ratio of one to the other. When
cheese nets the dairyman 10 cents, butter should net him 25 cents,
and this ratio of price as 1 to 2-|, is balanced by a ratio in yield of 2-^
to one. When this is the case the market is in its normal condition,
and any considerable deviation is incidental and abnormal. It is safer
to base calculations upon the rule, than upon the exceptions to the
rule. During a part of the seasons of 1871 and 1872, and in June of
1873, there was such a deviation. The result was that in 1871 and
1872, creameries generally fell somewhat behind full milk cheese fac-
tories in their net returns to patrons — especially such as skimmed
most heavily, while those that skimmed lightly, during the periods of
low prices in butter, redeemed themselves. The season of 1873, taken
early and late, showed a decided advantage in skimming, making a
net gain of ten to twenty cents per hundred pounds of milk in favor of
creameries. I am not saying that butter-making ought to supercede
cheese-making. By no means. I will venture the opinion, however,
that whenever the experiment shall be tried, under fair and equal con-
ditions, and for a series of years, well managed creameries will show a
better net profit to patrons than the best managed cheese factories. In
most seasons this would be the case were butter made exclusively,
feeding the sour milk to swine, but I believe it is generally more
profitable to make skim cheese also.

(It is well known tiiat the finest grades of butter are made at cream-
eries, or m private dairies, managed essentially upon the creamery
principle.) Each season shows a finer and more decided discrimina-
tion in qualities of butter in the markets, and proves that fastidious
tastes appreciate the pure flavor of creamery butter. The market re-
ports never show a superabundance of fine butter, and there is abso-
lutely no danger from overproduction.

The question is not whether we shall make butter, but how shall we
improve the quality of our butter. May there not be a sufficient
amount of fine butter produced to force down the price of the detesta-
ble stuff* that constitutes so large a proportion of the entire product,
and discourage its production ? The question is not whether we shall
make skim cheese, but how shall we make better skim cheese ? The
fact is that much greater skill, much closer attention and much bet-
ter command of expedients is required in making skims, than in
making whole milk cheese. Many a successful operator of a full milk
cheese factory might fully satisfy himself on this point by making the
trial. There seems to be in skimmed milk a natural tendency to the
extremes of dryness, or of premature decay, and to keep between these
extremes in all cases, I venture to say, has not been the good fortune
of any manufacturer. Those who have acquired the greatest skill, if
honest, will confess that they acquired it only after having made re-
peated failures and plenty of worthless cheese, and that even now
they sometimes meet cases that baffle their skill. One of these stated
to the writer that he sacrificed in a single season $500 worth of cheese.
These are simply plain, unvarnished facts in regard to the manufac-
ture of skim cheese.

41

When the necessary attention shall have been given to creamery op-
erations, when dairymen learn to appreciate the importance of taking
proper care of their milk, then will creameries become more popular
than now, because more profitable. At present, success in conducting
creameries, means a superintendent with skill, quick percejition, quick
decision, prompt action, and an amount of energy sufficient to coun-
teract, at least, in a measure, the damaging effects of negligence on the
part of the dairyman. When all milk shall be subjected to a process
of aeration, as well as cooling, then will the character of both butter
and cheese, but particularly of butter, be greatly improved. AVhen
milk becomes tainted, either from the food of the cow, the health of
the cow, from the stable, or from standing too long in close confine-
ment, the cream partakes tenfold more of those taints, than the milk.
In such cases the cheese would be better without the cream than with
it. While butter made from the cream of that character, would show
the taint to an extent that would render it worthless for the table. It
is a fact too little appreciated, that the quality of butter is more sensi-
bly affected than that of cheese, by diflference in breeds, difference in
soil and pasturage, by the habits of the people, and in short, by what-
ever influence is exerted upon the character of milk, so that in many
cases very fair cheese may be made, where you could make only a very
inferior quality of butter.

Only the most superficial investigation is required to verify this
statement, but I do not propose to prove it by going into detail. I
have proved it in my experience, and thousands of others have no
doubt done the same. I therefore beg to be excused from butter-
making in such cases, as it is neither gratifying to me, nor profitable
to patrons to make inferior butter.

I apprehend no permanent deficiency will ever occur in the product
of either butter or cheese, by an over-production of the other. The
natural and inevitable law of supply and demand will be potent to
correct errors of this kind, by enhancing the price of the article whose
supply is deficient, and thereby enhancing also the profit of the fewer
producers. Should one-half the butter-makers proceed at once to
convert their milk into cheese, the error would very soon be apparent
to those who committed it. An advance in price of any coommodity
is simply nature's call for more of that commodity. Let us borrow no
anxiety on this point, and while I declare in favor of my favorite, I
should regret nothing more than that every dairyman and every facto-
ryman should at once become converts to my views, as disaster would
inevitably follow. I repeat that I contend not for more butter, but
for better butter, or, if you please, for more good butter. Great dam-
age has resulted to the dairy public from the published statements of
experimental tests, a large proportion of which are entirely unreliable,
being so imperfect in detail as to render them fit only to mislead the
unwary who may place confidence in them. Take for instance the
matter of deep or shallow setting for milk in butter making. Many
so called tests have been published, some proving in favor of one
practice, aud some for the other. Now the probability is that not one
per cent, of these tests was so conducted as to prove anything else so
clearly as the superficial knowledge and the prejudice of the experi-
menter. Though made in good faith they yet lack the essential ele-
ments of a complete test.

42

No test can be valuable that is not based upon a homogeneous mass
of milk equally divided while in a state of agitation, taking into the
account every condition, however remote, that could affect the ulti-
mate result, and even this must be oft repeated under a variety of cir-
cumstances to prove of great value. The practice of deep setting, has
a great advantage in economy of space, but it has the counter disad-
vantage of vast expense and heavy labor. Inventive genius must soon
supplant it with something more generally acceptable. We recog-
nize in butter-making, nothing of the nature of a fixed science. We
regard it as along neglected science that has just arisen from a state
of slumber, as it were, and that shall progress with its handmaid,
until, in a few years hence, we shall be surprised to turn back and re-
call the state of progress that seems to us now quite encouraging. Let
us investigate carefully, applying to our individual practice every prin-
ciple that is really progressive, and the result will be highly gratify-
ing. By much practicing, however, and little application, we can
never reach the point of excellence at which we aim.

Mr. Scoville asked how many pounds of milk were necessary to make
a pound of butter.

Mr. Greene — We have not tried to exhaust the milk, but leave
enough in it to make a blue skim cheese. As we work we get a pound
of butter to thirty pounds of milk. Thirty pounds of milk would
make two pounds of cheese and one pound of butter.

Mr. Willard — Do you prefer shallow or deep setting ?

Mr. Greene — That is a matter about which I am not fully convinced.
I have never had time enough to test the question under all its con-
ditions.

Mr. Willard — Which kind do you favor ?

Mr. Greene — I favor "deep setting." I think perhaps in creameries
the case of deep setting balances the better results from the shallow
setting.

Mr. Moon — How does your skim cheese compare in price with full
milk cheese ?

Mr. Farriugton — Did not your Pennsylvania creameries sell skim
cheese last year within one cent of the price of full milk cneese ?

Mr. Greene — I believe they did. Manufacturing thirty pounds
of milk into one pound of butter and two pounds of cheese costs
twenty-six cents. The average difference between creamery cheese
and full milk cheese would be about two and one-half cents.

Mr. Moon spoke strongly against the double treatment of the milk
in creameries as a movement toward the deterioration ot the cheese of
the country. It turns out a mass of skim cheese in the spring, which
clogs the market all summer. Prices are restrained and held down.
Consumption is lessened.

Mr. Greene replied that consumers did not know the difference
between full milk and skim cheese as well as Mr. Moon thought, and
it went readily into consumption.

J. E. Chapman, of Madison — I feel anxious to know something about
these creameries. They are increasing in our vicinity. There are
customers for our best cheese ; it is bought even before it is made.
There is a second class of cheese made with poor feed and poor water,
for which there is a market. There is another class of cheese, and
that is tlie half skimmed kind. That is the kind I have made. I
never had but three floating curds. Three miles from me they have a

43

run of floating curds. One factory had one hundred and thirtv float-
ing curds last summer. Our secretary, Mr. Arnold, says the floating
curd comes from the sun shining on the side of the cow. [Mr.
Arnold ascribes tainted milk and floating curds to a heated condition
of the cow's blood, whether produced by sunshine, or fe^erishness
from the use of bad Avater, or over eating, or worrying, or other
cause.] I believe it comes from stinking water. It may be the water
is heated by the sun inside the cow or in the pond, but I believe the
floating curd comes from bad Avater. My half skimmed cheese sells
better than the whole milk make of my neighbors. It is because I
have better patrons, and they live on better soil. There is another
style of skim cheese which is made in creameries. Some of them use
a tremendous excess of rennet. It is like India rubber, and has a
peculiar smell. That is what you call skim cheese. I would not eat
a quarter of a pound of it for one hundred dollars.

The infelicity of our cheese-making is because the price depends
upon the Liverpool quotation. The price of butter depends upon its
intrinsic value.

Mr. Hawley asked Mr. Arnold if it was true that the acid in sour
cream could destroy the butter.

Mr. Arnold replied that acids, even when very strong, act indiflerently
on butter; that when the fermentation of milk was far advanced
alchohol was formed in small quantity m it and this might take up the
cream ; that alcohol was formed quite freely in whey, and under favor-
able circumstances would consume all the cream that rose on it. It
forms so freely that swine are sometimes made drunk with the alcohol
taken in the whey. It is a question whether some other yet unknown
product is not formed in sour milk that acts on the cream.

The chairman suggested the propriety of a short meeting, because
of the exceedingly low temperature of the hall, and called upon Mr. 0.
L. Sheldon to read his paper upon his experience in making cheese
with milk delivered but once a day. Mr. Sheldon read as follows :

ME. Sheldon's experience.

Mr. President and Members of this Association — In complying with
the request of your worthy secretary to prepare a paper for this associ-
ation, I have chosen to give you the results of a " practical experience
in the manufacture of cheese from milk delivered but once a day."
During the season of 1872 some of the patrons furnishing milk at my
factory were desirous of being relieved of the labor of delivering milk
twice a day, and requested of me the liberty to keep their milk home
at night, agreeing to care for it in a suitable manner, and bring it in
good condition in the morning; in some instances the night's and
morning's milk together, and in other instances, where the messes
were larger, in separate cans. These patrons had abundance of cool
runniug water in which they might set their cans during the warm
weather, and, as it would save them a journey of four or five miles
'each day, I readily acceded to their request. In fact, I was desirous of
the opportunity that would thus be afforded to test the practicability
of delivering milk but once a day. Throughout the season the condi-
tion of tills milk which was delivered but once a day was fully up to
the average standard of the milk brought twice a day, as far as it could
be determined without an actual test by working separately. The

44

season closed leaving upon my mind an impression favorable towards
delivering milk but once a day for the manufacture of cheese.

At the commencement of the cheese-making season of 1873 we
expressed our willingness to receive milk but once a day from all who
would care for it in a proper manner, and bring it in good condition,
unskimmed, to the factory. We gave such instruction, from time to
time, as seemed needful, particularly insisting upon a thorough airing.
Nearly one-third of the milk brought to the factory, came but once a
day ; those furnishing the other two-thirds pi'eferred the delivery to the
care of the milk, or were unfavorably disposed toward the once a day
system. Some of this latter class claimed that in addition to the extra
delivery, they sustained a loss in having their milk made up with the
once a day milk. To satisfy them as well as to carry out an original
purpose, i instituted a series of experiments, working each class of
milk by itself, noting the amount of cheese from each, as also its qual-
ity, probable value, and percentage of shrinkage. The first experiment
was made July 12. The temperature of the atmosphere at sunrise,
was 50°, and the evening previous, some ten degrees warmer. The
day's milk was worked in three vats. For convenience we will desig-
nate them as No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3 ; No. 2 being the vat in which in
this and the following experiments, the once a day milk was worked.

No. 1 vat with 3,919 lbs. milk was taken up four and one half hours
from the time of setting ; No. 3 vat of 3,797 lbs. milk was taken up
five hours after setting ; the two vats producing 847 lbs. cheese, and
requiring 9.109 lbs. milk per pound of cheese ; No. 2 vat of 3,662 lbs.
milk was taken up fi\^e and one- half hours from time of setting, making
390 lbs. cheese, using 9.389 lbs. milk per pound of cheese ; a loss in
that milk, as compared with the other vats, of 11 lbs. cheese, or 2.S2
per cent. The cheese of the 2d vat were dryer and firmer than the
other cheese.

Sept. 24, seventy-three days from the press, these cheese were weighed
again. No. 2 vat had lost 33 lbs., or 8.46 per cent; Nos. 1 and 3 had
lost 69 lbs., or 8.1 4 per cent. Seven days later these cheese were weighed
again : 2d vat had lost 3 lbs. since last weighing, or 9.23 per cent., 1st
and 3d vats had lost 6 lbs., or 8.85 per cent., being a shrinkage of 38.100
of one per cent, more on the firm, dry cheese, from the milk delivered
but once a day, than on the more open and less valuable cheese made
from the milk delivered fresh from the cow both evening and morning ;
this result was not expected.

July 15, the second experiment was made. The temperature of the
previous night had been such as to try the keeping qualities of the
milk; that, kept at the factory was standing at 66 and 68 degrees,
before the morning's milk was added. No. 1 vat, with 3,759 lbs. milk
was taken up three hours after, making 392 lbs. cheese, using 9.589 lbs.
milk, per pound of cheese ; the acid had become very sharp at the
time of taking up the curd. No. 2 vat, with 3,582 lbs. milk was taken
up five hours after setting, making 373 lbs. cheese, using 9.603 lbs.
milk, per pound of cheese. No. 3 vat, five hours from setting, with'
3,790 lbs. milk, made 399 lbs. cheese, using 9.498 lbs. milk per pound
of cheese. In this experiment, the once a day milk lost 2^ lbs. as com-
pared with the other, being a loss in quantity of 63-100 of one per
cent. Seventy days from press, these cheese were weighed again. First
vat had lost 32 lbs. being 8 16-100 per cent. Second vat, 27 lbs. or
7 21-100 per cent. Third vat, 32 lbs. or 8 02-100 per cent. Seven days

45

later these cheese were weighed agaiu. No. 1 had lost 4 lbs., or 9 18-100
per cent. No. 2 had lost nothing since previous weighing. No. 3 had
lost 1 lb. Nos. 1 and 3 had lost 8 72-100 while No. 2 had lost but
V 21-100 per cent., being in this instance, a difference in shrinkage of
1 51-100 per cent, in favor of milk delivered once a day. No. 1 vat, in
this, having firmness and quality in excess of the other two, lost
9 18-100 per cent, being 1 97-100 per cent, in excess of the second vat.

The third experiment was made Aug. 7. The temperature of the
atmosphere was 68° in the morning ; the previous evening 72'^. The
vats were standing at 59° and 60°. No. 1, with 3,553 lbs. milk, made
378 lbs. cheese, using 9,399 lbs. milk per pound of cheese ; No. 2, with
3,036 lbs. milk, made 328 lbs. cheese, using 9.256 lbs. milk per pound
of cheese ; and No. 3 vat, with 3,438 lbs. milk, made 368 lbs. cheese,
using 9 3-42 lbs. milk per pound of cheese. In this instance for the
first time the once a day milk makes the most cheese, being a gain over
the other vats of 1 2-10 per cent. The curds worked quite uniformly,
and came up about five hours from the time of setting. The once a
day milk, though not quite so close and meaty as No. 1 vat com-
pared favorably with the average of the other two. Forty-seven
days after these cheese had lost — No. 1, 23 lbs. or 6 08-100 per cent; No.
2, 20 lbs. or 6 09-100 per cent. ; No. 3, 21 lbs. or 5 70-100 per cent.
Twenty-five days after they had lost — 1st vat, 41bs., or 7 14-100 per cent,
from the press; No. 2, 4 lbs., or 7 31-100 per cent.; 3d vat, 5 lbs., or
7 06-10 per cent.

The fourth and last experiment was made August 11. The previous
night had been cool. No. 2 vat, with 3,006 lbs. milk, made 334 lbs.
cheese, using 0 lbs. milk per pound of cheese. Nos. 1 and 3, with
6,757 lbs. of milk make 756 lbs. of cheese, using 8.937 lbs. milk per
pound of cheese. In this instance there is a loss in the once a day
milk of 59-100 of one per cent. Forty-three days after the second
vat had lost 17 lbs. or 5 08-100 per cent. ; 1st and 3d vats, 46 lbs. or
Q 08-100 per cent. Twenty-five days later the second vat had lost 7
lbs. or 7 18-100 per cent.; the Lst and 3d, 6 lbs. or 6 87-100 per cent.
Here is a marked instance of uneven shrinkage, the cheese from
the once a day milk in the first forty-three days shrinking, one per
cent less than the other cheese ; and, in the next twenty-five days
shrinking, 136-100 per cent, the most.

It would seem from these experiments that the diyer, firmer cheese,
requiring the most milk for their production, also shrink the most.
These experiments have raised in my mind the inquiry whether or not
in the manufacture of cheese there is a point which, if we pass, we
not only lessen the product, but also increase its shrinking capacity,
as well as a point which, if we do not arrive at, we increase the product,
and, at the same time, diminish the capacity to shrink. Also the
question, will there not be a time when these firm cheese, that show
tlie larger percentage of shrinkage, will cease to shrink, or shrink in a
less ratio than the others with which they have been compared ?
Similar to the instance of uneven shrinkage as noticed in last experi-
ment.

As to the aggregate result of these experiments regarding quantity
(jf cheese produced, the once a day milk used on an average 9.323 lbs.
milk per lb. of green cheese and 10. U3 lbs. milk per lb. cheese as last
weighed, showing a shrinkage of 7.789 per cent. The other milk used
3.29 lbs. per lb. of green cheese, and 10.035 lbs. per lb. of cheese as

46

last weighed, losing 7.929 per cent. The shrinkage is 14-100 of one
per cent, less on the milk delivered but once a day than on the other,
but there is a loss in quantity of 684-1000 of one per cent, to charge
to the once a day system. But when we come to the market value,
this percentage of loss is offset by the superior quality of second vat
in July 13 experiment; so good a judge of cheese as R. Bamber, of
New York, placed it one-half cent per lb. ahead of those made that day
in Nos. 1 and 3 vats ; figuring these cheese at 13^c., and the balance of
the cheese at 13c., the once a day milk brings $0.01299 per lb., the
other milk $0.01295 per lb. ; being a difference of three cents on 100,000
lbs. of milk in favor of the once a day system.

In making these experiments, each cheese was weighed separately,
and marked what it weighed in pounds " up weight." Perhaps the
results would have been modified, had a more accurate system of
weighing been adopted. The general result of these tests accords with
our observation and practice for the season, and we think we can safely
say that no losses were sustained by any patron, because of this manner
of delivering milk, while to those who availed themselves of this plan
some 5,000 miles travel, were saved during the one hundred and fifty-
one days we were making cheese.

Mr. Scoville — Would a smaller cheese shrink more in proportion
than a large one ?

Mr. Sheldon — I think so.

Mr. Arnold — Did cheese in one case he mentioned in his experiments
cure faster than the other ?

Mr. Sheldon — I think the cure was more rapid in the "once a day
milk."

Mr. Farrington, of Canada — Was the milk kept over night agitated ?

Mr. Sheldon — It was.

Mr. Farrington — A man in Canada practiced the once a day plan,
and attributed his success to the fact that the patrons were able to keep
the milk m better condition than he could.

At this point the chairman spoke the sentiments of the meeting
when he said that the room was too cold for further discussion, and an
adjournment was eSected on motion of Mr. Lewis, till 9 A. M. Wednesday.

WEDNESDAY MORNING.

The second day's meeting of the Dairymen's Convention opened
well in a chilly atmosphere in Mechanics' Hall yesterday morning,
Gardner B. Weeks, of Syracuse, in the chair.

Hon. Harris Lewis announced that the display of dairy utensils and
products v/ould be spread in Association Hall, and could be viewed
there by the members of the convention.

The first address to the convention was from the New York Butter
and Cheese Exchange, presented by the committee from that organiza-
tion, consisting of Messrs. Folsom, Snell and Windsor. The address
was read by Mr. Folsom, the chairman of the committee, and was as
follows :

THE AMERICAN DAIKYING INTEREST AND LTS RELATION TO THE PRO-
J)UCE TRADE AND TO COMMERCE.

The American Dairymen's Association represents one of the most
important producing interests of the United States. This organiza-

47

tion is comparatively new and may be said to have, as yet, occnpied
but a small part of its wide field of operation, and yet the results of its
beneficial iniiuence are immense, and furnish an example of the
advantages of such institutions in counection with agricultural pur-
suits. The almost wonderful increase of the products of the dairy,
and the great improvement in their quality within the past few years
throughout tlie country, may be attributed largely to the infl^uence of
this association. It has been instrumental in the introduction and
application of the sciences, especially that of chemistry, in the
improvement of the manufacturing process, and is still engaging the
attention of science and practical minds. This information, acquired
and dissemiuatedjhas tended not only to improve the quality and increase
the production of these commodities in the United States aud Canada,
but also, by improving the quality of the products, to greatly increase
their consumption both here and in Europe. There would seem to be
no grounds for fears of over production, so long as improvement in
quality continues. The English people have led in the discovery of
the value of cheese as an article of food for all classes of people, and
are being followed by other countries in its use. Since the introduc-
tion of the factory system, which is continually improving the quality,
England has increased her demands for American cheese, and the same
is true of the United States and other countries. But the United
States have the lead and advantage in the manufacture, with the world
for a market. There appears to be no Innit to the demand for these
staples, excejjtwhen of inferior quality. It is, therefore, to the interest
of every man, through this association, to make known all discoveries
and improvements in the process of producing or manufacturing,
since it is true that if the few only, produce fine, and the many, inferior
qualities, the consumption for all is checked.

COMPARATIVE VALUE OF PRODUCTION OF BUTTER AND CHEESE.

While the demand for cheese has constantly increased, so has it also
for butter, which has heretofore been more extensively used in the
United States than in any other country, but there is evidence that
other countries are increasing the use of it, and will take all of our
surplus.

Dairymen investing their capital and labor in the production of but-
ter and cheese, have essentially a common interest, and it would be
detrimental to both branches to regard it as otherwise. The capital
invested in the production of, and commerce in, butter is estimated as
nearly double that to cheese. This association, in carrying out its
objects, should give prominence to this fact, and in its co-operation
with dairymen should foster and encourage any measures that tend to
improve and increase the manufacture of this chief product of the
dairy, which is now becoming a more important article of export, as
supplied from the surplus of the Western States, where, with cheap
lands in sections adapted to gi-azing, great progress is being made in
the production of butter; and by the ai)plicatioii and use of inibrma-
tiou that may be alforded l)y this association, as to the l)est methods of
manufacture, much can be accomplished toward commanding foreign
markpts for any surplus, at prices remunerative, yet lower than the
cost of production in other countries where lands are expensive.

While this preponderance of capital and the numbers of dairymen
and merchants employed in the production and trade in butter exists,

48

this branch of the business will exert a controlling influence in the
commerce in dairy products, which regulates the production and prices
of cheese according to the price of butter. At any time when the
prices of butter indicate a better profit than can be realized to the
dairy for cheese, the latter can be diminished. Thus butter leads and
ultimately controls the trade in dairy products. This important fact
has to a great extent been overlooked, much to the detriment of the
whole dairying interest and the commerce arising from it.

THE MAGNITUDE OF THE DOMESTIC AS COMPARED WITH THE EXPORT

TRADE.

In former years, as it became more important as an article of export,
foreign houses established their agents in New York for the purchase
of American cheese. The manner in which the business was conducted
gave it the appearance of being on a cash basis, and no credit was cus-
tomary, as in the domestic trade. To a great extent this is still the
system, but the factoryraen must furnish the cheese and through the
merchants deliver it on shipboard as a basis for 60-day bills drawn
against it by exporters through foreign bankers, before cash is paid.
This delivery, on however short time, was taking all the risk of credit
and at the same time depriving the great producing industry of the
facilities of credit and capital. The export business in cheese consti-
tuted a prominent feature in the commerce in dairy products in ISiew
York, not many years ago, and was regarded as a matter ol leading
importance in connection with the entire American dairy interest.
But now, with a population of 40,000,000 as consumers of these staples,
especially of butter, of which nearly twice the value is used as com-
pared with cheese — and a rapid increase in the consumption of the
latter, renders the export trade of cheese of comparatively less import-
ance. While this trade aggregates a value of ^10,000,000, the value of
the products of the dairy, throughout the United States, is estimated
to be $500,000,000.

CAPITAL DIVERTED FROM THE DAIRYING INTEREST — CAUSES AND

REMEDY. '

The effect of giving prominence to the export trade in cheese, con-
ducted in the manner in which it had been, was to prevent capital
from entering into the trade, and thus increasing production and
commerce in these staples. The exporter purchasing cheese from the
merchant on terms that require its delivery on shipboard, and draw-
ing bills against it through foreign bankers, invests no. capital in this
department of trade here. The only capital required in the operation
is furnished by merchants and factorymen who supply the cheese.
The result of apparently a cash system, in New York, has been to cre-
ate the impression that the trade in dairy products was upon a cash
hasis, and consequently a great iudusti-y and vast commerce arising
from it, involving an investment of hundreds of millions of dollars
actual capital by producers and merchants has not, for years, made
available the credit allowed in other departments of business.

But as the foreign demand for cheese increased, substantial English
liouses, identified with Araericaus m this trade, were established in
New York. Instead of foreign agents investing no capital, as was the
case formerly, we have in the trade well established foreign houses
with capital to invest, and whose interests are identified with those of
the merchants of New York and of the dah-ymen.

49

Since New York has become the chief market of the world for dairy
products, the English and other foreign merchants rely upon its ad-
vices for a guide to operations, and are governed by the situation here,
as has been demonstrated in several instances during the past season,
when this market was led in an advance or a decline. Another illus-
tration of our growing independence of foreign markets is the fact
that, at the close of the season. New York houses in connection with
factor^^men took the bulk of the stock and held it for distribution at
steady and fair prices, thus protecting factorymen and merchants in
all markets in their prudent investments.

In the competition for capital seeking an investment, nearly all
branches of trade, industry and commerce have made credits available
to a greater extent than the produce interest in all its branches, and
yet it is the most important trade of the country and its metropolis.
But in this respect a change is forcing itself. All other branches of
trade and investments, including those of Wall street, are shown to be
not only no safer channels for capital, but they are wholly dependent
upon the prosperity of the producing interests and the commerce
growing out of them, for their very existence,

DIVERSION OF THE PRODUCE TRADE FROM NEW" YORK.

The lack of adequate facilities for the transportation, storage and
exchange of produce in New York, is now commanding the earnest
attention of her merchants from the fact that this trade, and with it
all others, is being diverted from the metropolis in the proportion that
these facilities fail to keep pace with our rapid increase of production.
The produce merchants of New York are largely responsible for the
loss of her share of this increase of commerce. The expenses of light-
ering, carting and storing breadstuffs are excessive. Besides this,
there is in the exchanging of these products a heavy tax on the time
of merchants arising from the distance of the exchange from the
points at which produce is landed. These causes, with heavy freight
rates, account for the diversion of the produce trade, and lead to still
more serious evils. Owing to their existence flour and grain, and
other produce seeking a -market, come to New York only as a last re-
sort, and often at an unnecessary loss to the original shipper. This
trade is becoming a huge speculation, carried on between New York
and Chicago operators, who concentrate the capital and credit of the
business in a few hands, and hold the majority of merchants at their
mercy. The state of the markets can only be guessed by watching
their mysterious movements through brokers on the exchanges which
they control. A few leading speculators with high credit, command-
ing the capital for immense and controlling operations, by accepting
sight drafts, force all smaller merchants with less capital, though often
equally res ponsibie, to the same system. Bankers and capitalists here
and in the interior, who, previous to the speculative period of the war,
legitimately loaned capital on time for the movement of crops later,
and to a great extent are still loaning their funds into these specula-
tive channels.

The result of this system of conducting the produce trade of New
York has been to limit the credit, capital and enterprise that would
otherwise liberally promote the growth of our commerce in agricul-
tural products. It has resulted in forcing the whole western trade in
butter, cheese and other products to a cash basis and a pernicious
4

50

sight draft system, and it is an evidence of the soundness of our mer-
chants that they could conduct this vast business without the use of
its proportion of credits. The butter and cheese produce merchants
oi New York carry on a business of over one hundred millions of dol-
lars annually, and there is no safer channel for capital and proper
credit.

It has been said that commerce rules the world, and this fact is
more and more demonstrated as civilization progresses. The natural
laws of commerce are immutable, perpetual and jiist, and in their op-
erations, stronger than governments which rank in power in propor-
tion to the magnitude of their commerce, and the extent to which
their people enjoy the benefits of its free intercourse. On the other
hand the decline and downfall of governments, administrations, cor-
porations and monopolies, is certain when they attempt to restrict its
movement, or violate its laws by unjust' duties, taxes or statutes. The
material wants of mankind, and the supplying of those wants, consti-
tute the operations of commerce, to which the carrier and the mer-
chant are as indispensable as the producer or consumer, since all le-
gitimate pursuits are for the general welfare. You hear at times the
term middlemen applied to merchants or traders in any capacity,
which is accompanied with a prejudice that they are a source of
injury, and stand between the producer and consumer. Such is not
the fact. When trade and industries are prosperous, we hear nothing
about middlemen; it is only when commerce languishes, and both
producer and consumer are burdened, that this occurs, and the causes
are found to be deeper. The origin of the term " middlemen," was
in connection with the land monopoly in Ireland, where there was a
system of laws that resulted in the control of the soil by the few, who
parceled it out at exorbitant rents to the peasantry, who were half
starved by the exactions permitted by these laws. This term, in its
original significance, is not applicable to any agent or trader in this
country, where lands are free from monopoly, and all pursuits are
open to competition, which regulates the following of them. Mercan-
tile, agricultural or professional occupations may be at times unprofit-
able, but under the free operation of the law of supply and demand are
self-regulating, and all are benefited by the most free competition.
Every individual bears a relation to commerce, and the dairymen, who
manufacture and dispose of the vast amount of their productions, are
merchants themselves — in one sense. The only diff"erence between
the merchant and the farmer is that the one employs his labor, skill
and capital in the field and dairy, while the other, for ultimately the
same purposes, is engaged in his office and warehouse. These pur-
suits are alike legitimate and for the common welfare, and should be
directly co-operative. The fact that agricultural pursuits are the
foundation of our national prosperity, is becoming more generally re-
cognized, and the branch represented by the American Dairymen's
Association is one of the most prominent in the channels of trade. It
is creditable to this organization that it was one of the first instituted
for the promotion and development of an interest so essential to, and
closely identified with the material welfare of our country.

BUTTER AND CHEESE EXCHANGE OF NEW YOEK.

Certainly a kindred institution is the Butter and Cheese Exchange
of New York, established " to foster trade, to protect it against un-
iust or unlawful exactions, to reform abuses, to diifuse accurate and

51

reliable information, to settle differences between members, and to
promote among them good fellowship, and a more enlarged and
friendly intercourse."

Every factory and merchant throughout the country connected with
this branch of trade, should be represented by a membership in this
institution. Especially would factory men be benefited by becoming
members of the exchange, and they should favor making transactions
only with merchants and agents who are also members. While this
would protect them from imposition or unfair dealing, it would also
provide them with a proper representation in the New York market,
which is of the first consequence to them, especially in view of the
changes likely to occur in the manner of conducting trade in New
York and throughout the country.

A registry in the New York Butter and Cheese Exchange of the
names of all the factories in the United States having stock for sale,
would place them at once in prominence before buyers from all other
markets, and ultimately lead to great convenience and economy in the
transaction of their business. The commission merchants of the ex-
change could then, at any time, ofier factories from all dairying sec-
tions, and where factorymen were members of the exchange with their
commission merchants, fair dealing would be insured by its regula-
tions and rules. All consignors of butter and cheese to this market,
by becoming members, can protect themselves, and have a remedy for
fraudulent transactions, through the complaint and arbitration com-
mittees. Instances are constantly occurring where irresponsible or
unprincipled operators, by exaggerated and false market reports, in-
duce shipments, and sacrifice them to the injury of their victims, and
of all honorable merchants.

Consignors by co-operating with the merchants of the exchange,
through a membership in that institution, can soon eradicate an evil
which, to the credit of the great majority of merchants, is practiced
only by the few, but occurs to a sufficient extent to require the co-
operation of all reliable merchants to prevent their department of
business in this chief market from falling into disrepute. Besides
correcting these evils, factorymen and merchants in the interior, can,
by becoming members of this exchange, have the advantages of an in-
stitution led by, and identified with the dairy interest that will give
their department its proper influence as a most prominent branch of
the produce trade, and will eventually absorb other branches that are
conducted on a larger scale in the vicinity of its location.

PROPOSITION TO IMPROVE AND ECONOMIZE THE MOVEMENTS OF
PRODUCE MORE.

The Butter and Cheese Exchange is established and located in the
center of the produce and provision trade of New York, and is wholly
identified with the movement to economise and improve the fiicilities
for traffic in produce. The merchants of the exchange receive annu-
ally over 300,000 tons of dairy product and other produce that moves
in the same channels of trade, every ton of wliich lands on the piers
surrounding the exchange; and from the same piers are shipped to
Europe, to the East and the South. All provisions and two-thirds of
the breadstutfs arrive at the same piers. Economical storage, transfer
and exchange facilities in this vicinity are the great wants of the
whole commerce of Ncav York. To lighter or cart any material quan-

52

tity of this produce from the piers of the Hudson to a distance of two
or three miles for storage and back again for re-shipment, is equivalent
to a ruinous tax here on the movements of produce, that is diverting
this trade, and with it the same proportion of all other trade from
New York.

The first practical step toward a remedy was the establishment of
this exchange for the convenience of merchants in the vicinity, and
from all quarters, who are interested directly or indirectly in this
trade. At this exchange may be exhibited for sale samples of all
classes of produce sold by sample, while the merchants dealing in the
bulky articles of butter, cheese, provisions, &c., not sold by sample,
have a place of meeting for their exchange near to the landing of these
heavy freights. The most important branch of the produce trade is
that in dairy products, and by the law of economy it has been com-
pelled to concentrate in this vicinity, and will ultimately attract all
other branches, since the products of the dairy are articles of prime
•daily necessity, and engage the time and attention of a greater number
of merchants than any other branch of the produce trade, and involve
as much capital.

At a small expense railway and terminal facilities for storing and
transhipment of cheese can be provided, which would dispense with all
the expense of store rents and of carting, and only office rents in the
vicinity of the exchange would be necessary. This saving of the ex-
pense of store rents, and of the time of merchants buying and selling
these staples, would increase the thrift of the trade.

MAEKET REPORTS,

The magnitude and nature of the trade in dairy products forced the
merchants into organization and the establishment of the exchange.
New York had become the principal distributing market in the world
for these staples. The merchants of foreign and domestic markets, as
well as dairymen, all look to the New York market and its daily trans-
•actions, as a guide to their operations. Previous to the organization,
it was impossible to obtain a reliable and consistent report of its situ-
ation, transactions and quotations. Reporters were often misled by
complications and conflicting interests. Contradictory private circu-
lars and advices were circulated. Various devices were adopted. Un-
principled and irresponsible parties, by exaggerated reports in circu-
lars, letters and telegrams, having no other policy than to make any
representations of the market to get consignments of goods in their
hands, were more likely to get them than reliable houses reporting the
situation truthfully, Eeliable merchants would have their reports in-
serted in country papers, and unreliable merchants would adopt the
same system, and with the apparent indorsement of a local paper in
the district, dairymen were induced to rely on these reports to their
cost. The consequence was that merchants and bankers in foreign
and distant domestic markets, dairymen, and our own merchants were
at a great disadvantage from these causes. To remedy this evil the
merchants of the Butter and Cheese Exchange adopted the system of
reporting transactions, quotations and the situation as taken from all
the merchants of the exchange by its reporters. These reports, when
made up, to insure accuracy, arc revised by a committee of the ex-
change, and issued daily under its authority.

The committees are subject to correction for any error in reports
through the complaint committee of the exchange. The result of

53

this system thus far has been a uniformly consistent and reliable
market report from the exchange, and the leading journals, with vigi-
lant reporters canvassing the market, could only confirm these reports.
As a result, throughout all the channels of the trade, the busiuess and
investments of all reliable merchants are protected from the evils of
false market reports, the authors of which are the only ones opposed
to a correct system. This combined effort of merchants for a truthful
market report, recognizes the fact that both producers and consumers
have their rights in the commerce of their principal market as well as
the merchant, and that just reports and just commissions are the only
basis of their thrift. In pursuance of this idea, information is solicited
by the exchange, from all interested, relative to markets, market re-
ports, statistics of productions and consumption, for dissemination
through the Commercial Record of the exchange. Any incorrect in-
formation or wrong quotations that occur in the report may be cor-
rected by any merchant or dairyman making it known by letter, or
otherwise addressing " The Butter and Cheese Exchange of New
York." Much can be accomplished toward the suppression of false
market reports by returning them to the exchange for exposure, as
has already been done in some instances.

Mr. Munson, of Delaware — I have been in doubt whether the But-
ter and Cheese Exchange was in the interest of the producer or not.
I have thought the exchange might be a combination of buyers against
the producer. For instance, do they not bring a pressure to bear upon
producers to market their manufacture during the summer months.
I may sell my goods at low summer price in accordance with that
pressure, and my neighbor may hold his goods contrary to the advice
of the exchange, and get the high fall price. Can a grievance of this
kind be arranged by the exchange ?

Mr. Folsom— I would say to the gentleman that in the cheese trade,
which is my specialty, most money has been obtained by those who
sold out their product from week to week. The exchange does not
prophesy, it states current prices, and the seller may draw his conclu-
sions therefrom. It is the aim of the exchange to search out and pun-
ish all dishonest dealers.

Mr. Hawley, of Syracuse, did not believe the statement that the
butter-makers were aided by any treatment which the product receives
in New York city. There is more butter sjjoiled by New York treat-
ment than is improved. The way is for the producer to sell his pro-
duct at his own door.

Mr. Farrington, of Canada — I tliink the exchange should be looked
into with scrutiny. In these days ol combinations, political and in-
dustrial, in these days of rings, every combination must be looked into.
The })roducer should know more about the exchange.

Mr. Folsom described the operations of the exchange, stating that
there was no pressure or combmation to force sale. A man could
offer his product and sell it or not. The systems of trade guard
against dishonest transactions.

Mr. Munson asked whether a commission dealer could take his con-
signment and buy it himself, and return a bill of sale.

Mr. Folsom said tlie commission dealer would report the price
which tlie product would gain, and lie would inform the producer,
lie might take the consignment less his commission, or sell it to an-
other at the same price.

64

Mr. Farriiigton, of Cattaraugus^Is the membership of the exchange
confined to New York dealers ?

Mr. Folsom — The doors are open to all.

Mr. Farrington — Are not the producers at liberty to join the ex-
change and control its operations ?

Mr. Folsom — Certainly the producers may secure control of the ex-
change; there is no method to keep them out.

Mr. Scoville — What are the fees on the exchange ?

Mr. Folsom — The initiation fee is 125, the annual dues $25.

Mr. Scoville — I move that a committee of three be appointed to con-
sider and report upon the subject matter of Mr. Folsom's address.

Mr. Farrington — I second the motion.

Mr. Arnold advocated the appointment of the committee. The
measure Avas adopted. The following committee was appointed :

Dr. L. L. Wight, of Oneida, D. H. Burrell, of Herkimer, H. Far-
rington, of Canada.

0. 0. Blodgett, of Chautauqua, read the following paper on " But-
ter-Making " :

Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemen : — The first step in the inves-
tigation of our branch of dairying, must be to divide the butter-
makers into two classes. Those who make fine butter, and those who
make butter that is not fine. This must be done, because many rules
that would apply to one class, would not apply to the other. For in-
stance : One man is producing butter from a kind of feed costing a
given sum, and receives a net profit. He produces fine butter, — gets
a corresponding price. Another attempts the same mode, and pro-
duces a poor quality of goods, receives, (or ought to,) a corresponding
price, and j-eports that such a course does not pay a net profit. Out
of the hundreds of millions of dollars worth of butter produced in
this country, only " a small per cent, of this amount is really prime in
quality," (to use an expression of a member of the New York But-
ter and Cheese Exchange.) Dealers differ in their opinion as to the
relative amount of fine butter produced. But for our present pur-
pose we will say that two per cent, of the butter is fine. This would
be one package in fifty, fine, or we might say one butter maker in
fifty, makes "absolutely faultless butter." Whether this estimate is
too high or too low to suit the opinions of my hearers, it'makes no
diS'erence in this argument, as each can shift the scale to suit his
views.

Now we have two problems before us : 1st — In what manner is the
faultlessly fine goods produced ? 2d —In what manner is the butter
produced that is not fine ?

This seems a very simple matter to unravel. All you have to do is
0-0 out among the butter makers and take the testimony. But what
adds to complexity of these problems is the fact that almost every
butter maker believes his goods among the small amount that is fine,
and that the poor butter is made by somebody else. Therefore, in
takiu"" the average testimony on "How to make fine butter," you
would really get forty-nine statements that ought to be labeled, "Rules
for making poor butter," to one correct statement that would be au-
thoritv for making butter fine.

55

Again, as but one-fiftieth of the butter is produced fine, we might
infer that when the public is called upon to settle any disputed point
about fine butter-making, it would not be best to decide the point "in
favor of the weight of testimony," as the chances are that forty-nine
would hold misguided opinions, to one who possessed the bottom fact.
Is it any wonder, then, that the world says, that butter-makers are at
loggerheads on almost every point ? The man who possesses the bot-
tom fact is not going to yield. The spokesman for the forty-nine will
not give up, for he has the majority to back him — a suflBcient evidence
to his mind that he is right. We must, therefoi'e, look to some other
source for information. The first question to ask is — What is fine
butter ? If we interrogate the market, we are answered that it is the
butter that commands the Inghest price. If we " interrogate Nature,"
(as they say at Cornell University,) we are answered that it is healthy
butter — that it is the product, or the result of a close following of Na-
ture's laws of health, from the soil upon which the animals are fed, up
to the feeding and care of the animals. This careful regard of all and
every law of health must be observed. The result is, perfectly healthy
animals, healthy milk, healthy cream, healthy butter. That is Na-
ture's answer. And it happens to agree with the answer given by the
market, for this is exactly the quality that brings the highest price in
New York, Boston, Philadelphia, or I^ondon. Again, in observing
these laws, and their results, we find that the healthiest grasses and
grains, — the most perfect of their kind, are produced upon soils neither
the poorest nor the richest. We infer that vegetable life requires to be
neither starved upon the barren desert, nor gluttonously fed upon the
richest alluvials. Will this rule hold true with the feeding of animals?
Shall we feed them the greatest amount of food that it is possible to
get them to eat ? Shall this food be of the most faulty nature, that is,
the largest amount possible, containing the smallest amount of life-
supporting material ? This appears to be about the sum of the advice
given by the majority of agricultural speakers and Avriters in this
country. And this rule is followed to some extent — at least it appears
to be accepted as the true theory by a great many dairy farmers.

Does nature teach us that this gluttonous course is the true course
to follow in search of that perfectly healthy condition that our animals
must be in, in order to produce healthy milk ? Nature teaches us
that a moderate proportion of plant food produces the most perfect
grass and grain. Gluttony is not preached to us as a step toward
health in the human family. Now what shall we conclude in regard
to these domesticated, milk-producing animals, remembering that na-
ture's laws pervade all time and space with the same unerring pre-
cision, knowing no great, or small, or high, or low. The law that
shapes the dew, or tear drop, rounds the planet.

The following is quoted from Judge Gould's recent admirable ad-
dress before the State Dairymen's Association at Sinclearville, Chau-
tauqua County, N. Y. :

But there is something else in it, as those who manufacture con-
densed milk for the market can fully and freely testify. If we stand
at the mouth of the tube from whence the condensed products of evap-
oration flow, we shall find that the odor is as hideous as anything
that can be well conceived ; it seems co combine the separate odors of
sweat, urine and excrement, somewhat intensified in the mixture.

56

This odor is discoverable when the milking has been performed Id
the cleanest manner, when it has been properly strained, and when it
has been cooled as soon as possible after leaving the udder of the cow.
It would seem that the milk glands of the cow do not perform their
functions in the most proper manner, and that they secrete froin the
blood along with the lacteous fluid other matters, which physiologists
have supposed were exclusively separated by the sudorific glands, the
kidneys and the bowels.

It is possible that the lacteal glands of the cow only perform this
vicarious function under the conditions incident to her domesticated
state, and that her milk in her wild state would be perfectly free from
these contaminations. Whether this is so or not, it is certain that
anything that changes the normal condition of the cow, increases this
smell in a marked degree.

The above contains a fact, and a suggestion. The fact that the
milk produced by the animals in question is imperfect. The sugges-
tion is, that perhaps the milk produced from the cow in her wild
state, or as we might say, in a state in which she follows more closely
the imperative laws of health, would then be in a perfectly healthy
condition, from which butter may be produced that would also be per-
fectly healthy, or as they say in the market, " absolutely faultless in
quality,"

We must assume one of tAvo positions. First, that Nature does not
work perfectly, or that we do not understand those laws and those
conditions, or understanding them, do not apply them in the manage-
ment of cows. There is either a jar in Nature, (in the sale of imper-
fect milk,) or there is a botch job on our part in the care of those
animals, — in the conditions with which we surround them.

The position that nature does not work perfectly in producing
milk under any circumstances, would be somewhat stronger if it was
not for the fact that butter is now produced that is pronounced
" absolutely faultless in qualitv."

Practically, then, the question remains. In what manner is this
produced ? Who produces it ? What is their practice ? Upon what
general principles do they rely to carry them safely through to the
result of a "faultless product?" What is the radical diflFereuce be-
tween the views of this small class of fine butter producers, and the
large class who produce the common grade of goods ?

To assist us in the unraveling of this complex problem, the Western
New York Buttermaker's Association have instituted a system of
gathering the names and residences of those among them who pro-
duce that faultless quality of butter that makes its way to market.
After making their practice our study, is it not safe to assume that
the teachings of those who succeed in any branch, is about the best
authority that we can get on that particular subject ? So far as we
have gone in this investigation, we can safely say that the teachings
of such have always kept tally with the plain laws of health in the
care of animals. Then in the manufacture of butter from milk, there
are two fundamental rules to lay down that covers the whole ground —
" Perfect cleanliness, and doing things in season." These appear to
be very easy terms to comply with, yet in detail, the matter becomes as
complex as the question, " Who makes fine butter ?" Why everybo(iy
think they do — so everybody practices " perfect cleanliness " — that is,
according to their idea of cleanliness. The man who tells you that the

57

correct way to do is to put on new garments, and never change them
till they are worn out, will boast more of his cleanliness than Dio Lewis,
who changes his socks seven times a week.

The student of Nature has observed in the care of his animals, that
cleanliness is one of the very necessary conditions conducive to their
perfect health. That high order of cleanliness comes in play now in
the care of milk, cream and butter. And so interwoven is this high
sense of cleanliness with the knowledge of Nature's laws of perfect
health, and extended are they over so broad a field of enquiry, that the
index of their possession by an individual, may be set down as a ••'high
order of intelligence." Or, in other words, you who know how to
make fine butter, must of needs possess as high an order of intellect
•ds is required to successfully perform any branch of industry carried
on in this or any other country.

What is this high order of cleanliness, if it is not the result of a
perfectly healthy condition of the senses ? Observe, if you j^lease, this
shifting scale of " cleanliness " as possessed by the different races of
men, beginning with the Digger Indian, up to the New Englander.
"But is there no other way," do you ask, "whereby to increase the
quantity of fine butter produced in this country, except by educating
more people up to this high sense of cleanliness, and more perfect
knowledge of Nature's laws of life and health ?" My answer is,
that I know of no shorter way to learn a grasshopper-eating Digger
Indian how to make fine butter, than to elevate his intellectual powers.
Teach him the laws of Nature that govern life and health — give him
the same knowledge of the physical sciences. In short, put as good a
set of brains in his head as is possessed by the New Englander. He
will never blunder into the right course. A jiackage of butter was
never made by accident.

About the kind of cows, their feed, the manner of making butter,
I propose to make a few suggestions which will tend to show in what
direction we are drifting upon these points. And also to make a few
inquiries about some of the many points upon which there is a great
diversity of opinion.

It appears that the smaller breeds of cows, fed upon the hillsides,
where grass does not grow rank or abundant, but more sweet and
delicious, where the animals are on the move the greater part of the
day, are conditions more favorable for the production of milk in its
perfect purity, than when produced from the larger breeds — more
ponderous animals — that must of needs be fed upon more al)undant
pasturage, eat their fill and lie down longer to rest than the smaller
animals. The indications seem to point plainly toward the Alderney
as the coming butter cow of this country. Don't go home and report
now " that I said that fine butter can only be made from Alderneys,
;ind that fine bu iter cannot be made from short horns." That would be
spreading it on too thick. I do not say but that the larger animals can
be handled in that skillful manner, observing all these necessary
requisites. But I should say, upon general principals, that it would
require the greater skill to strike that happy mean in their manage-
ment, the result of which is that desired condition of " perfect health,"
than in the more lithe, and smaller animals.

But that it can be done was proved by a skillful breeder of short-
horns in Chautauqua county (Mr. Ira Young.) who made butter this
jmst autumn from his lu'rcl of thoroughbreds that was pronounced

58

"faultless by experts in New York city. Assuming that perfect phys-
ical happiness is the index of perfect physical health, which would
most likely enjoy an all-day trip up the hillsides after the grass, the
sixteen hundred pound Durham cow or the more active Alderney ? and
which would be most likely to come back at night overtired and over-
heated ? Which would be most likely to convert a trip up Pike's
Peak into a pleasure excursion — Barnura's fat woman, or the female
celebrity who rode up in the rain, on horseback, astride, to see the
sun rise ?

An addition of grain, (finely ground) to the daily feed of a cow,
improves the quality and increases the quantity of her product. It
pays a better net return to feed corn meal to cows with grass, than
with hay — better with cornstalks than with hay. It pays better to feed
the meal and hay at different hours of the day, rather than to chop
up the hay and mix meal, hay and water in an insejoarable mass.
Why? Because hay is harder to digest than meal; takes longer.
This is the reason that nature passes meal at once to the fourth
stomach.

Some people express an alarm when they discover that meal is
passed to the fourth stomach, thinking that something ought to be
done about it. Is it not safe to assume that nature understands her
business until proven to the contrary by better authority ?

But does it j)ay all butter makers to feed grain ? Perhaps not.
But it pays for those who keep good cows — who handle their milk so
as to get all the cream, and from the cream all the butter, and this of
good quality — then, with still enough left to market his goods so as to
get their full value.

To illustrate at short-hand :

A buys grain at $4 per cwt., cares for and feeds his cows skill-
fully; same with the milk, cream and butter ; ships to his commis-
sion-house, and sells for 40 cts. per pound. Pays.

B buys grain at same price, cares for animals, with cream and butter,
unskillfully ; goods poor, sell for 25 cents. Does not get his money
back.

Conversing with a successful dairyman, near Chautauqua Lake,
recently, he gave me the following experience : He had kept an account
of his farming operations for years, and could readily refer to figures
for any given season : " Since I have been adding grain to the daily
summer feed of my cows, I have increased their product in quantity,
and so far improved its quality that my present sales exceed my former
sales sufficiently to more than cover the expense." He recapitulated
as follows :

Grain feeding —

1. Improves quality of product.

2. Increases quantity.

3. Improves quality and quantity of manure, thereby improves the
farm.

4. Could keep more animals on a given number of acres ; and saved
a better net profit after squaring up all around.

Another public educator made the following statement to a gentle
man recently, during his visit to Chautauqua county : "Your people
have no business to feed grain to cows in a country where such sweet
delicious grasses are grown, as here upon l-he beautiful hillsides of

59

Chautauqua county. Your farmers should not fool away then* money
for ' line ground meal,' as they call it. They should feed more grass."

Why, my dear sir, we do feed all the grass that we can coax out of
those " beautiful hillsides " — every spear of it. " But you must feed
still more," says he. We'll do it, but we must wait till more grows —
next year.

The question then stands, while feeding all the grass that grows,
can we purchase corn of the West, and, with this life-supporting ma-
terial added, enhance the value of our butter crop sufiiciently to pay
the West for her corn, and have a greater net profit left us (for labor
and capital invested) than when we feed the grass from the hillsides
alone ? The general result of our experiences is best answered by the
fact, that the farmers, after carefully noting the result on this point
for years, are steadily increasing their jjurchases from the West from
year to year.

Mr. Crump objects to feeding grain to cows, upon the grounds
*'that 'taint natural." He argues that she is made for the express
purpose of extracting her living from such food as contains the smallest
proportion of life-supporting material in proportion to its bulk.
Grass-straw, (after threshing,) corn-stalks, (after husking,) roots, &c.
That is Crumiys opinion, and he means to stand to it. Well, let him
stand, while we interrogate nature on this point. Do we not read
from the physical construction of the cow, that she is provided with a
complex chemical laboratory for digesting all the different kinds of
food in question ? First, grain (say fine meal,) easily digested. Other
animals can digest this, that have but one stomach, (process easily
effected,) so that nature sends it at once to the fourth stomach.
(Would do the same with toast and tea.) Now feed hay or straw, harder
to digest, requires a longer and more complicated process, passes through
more stomachs. Perhaps the mastodon, that lived on still grosser
food, branches of trees, had still more stomachs.

Again, turn a cow into a field containing ripened grain and grass,
will she eat the grass and straw and leave the grain untouched, giving
as a reason, that it is not " natural for a cow to eat grain," or will she
eat both grass and grain ? An experiment has been defined as asking
nature a question. The result of that experiment, the answer that
nature gives you. Now, when the Western New York Butter-makers,
the .State Dairymen's Association, or the American Dairymen's Asso-
ciation, or even good Mr. Crump himself, gives us one answer and na-
ture gives us an opposite answer, which shall we receive ?

One sure rule for producing poor milk in extreme hot weather, is to
have no shade for cows in pasture. Mr. Crump wants to know what
that has to do about it. He argues that when animals have convenient
shade that " they will fool away too much time enjoying themselves,
when they ought to be eating grass." Mr. Crump is a fictitious char-
acter, but I quote him often, because I like his style, and because he is
the representative type of many agricultural writers and speakers in
this country. He is partly right about .the eating. Animals that
have no shade will feed more at such times than those that can get
out of the broiling sun. Tbey eat because they can't think, of any-
thing else to do.

Observe animals closely upon such days, and you will find that they
go out into the sun a i'ew moments and feed, then return to the shade.
Place your hand upon their backs at this time. Tliey will be oppress-

60

ively hot. If she has no shade, her blood becomes heated. Nature's
process of digestion and assimilation is thrown oflF its balance — result :
an unhealthy or not perfect product of milk, cream and butter.

An addition of grain for feed at such times, morning and night,
saves her the necessity of spending more time in the hot sun than she
has a mind to. Final result, a healthier product.

We listen to the discussions and interesting details from our cheese-
making friends. Now gentlemen, this thing of butter-making, is
some like sliding down hill. When you have got to the top with your
sled, the rest is all fun — you go right along. So when cleanliness is
gained, a pure, rich quality of milk is obtained. The process is very
simple. Set your milk in a Avay that comes the nearest to keeping it
from 62" to 65° in light and pure air. Skim in the right time soon
as sour. Churn in the right time, say from 12 to 24 hours. Wash
witfi plenty of water ; more water the better, but stop washing just as
soon as the buttermilk is all separated; press out the water; salt with f
Oz. Ashton salt to the pound ; work just enough to mingle salt and
butter, and let stand 12 hours ; work a little just enough so that it
may not be streaked, and also to expel what water may remain. Pack
in a clean, sweet package, and you have got what everybody should
have to eat, gilt-edge butter.

Now, gentlemen, if firm butter may be called healthy, can you say
that the opposite quality is sick ? I won't say it — if I should the
newspapers would be twitting me of it— but if you will say so, I'll
standby you. The poorer the quality of butter when comj)leted, the
faster it runs down. As John Eandolph said of the new constitution
of Virginia, "■ It is born with the sardonic grin of death upon its
countenance."

Mr. Bliss, of Vermont — Sticklers for the natural method of feeding,
proclaim for feeding Indian meal. There is no Indian meal in nature.

Mr. Lewis — I would like to ask when the Lord put his grist-mills in
nature ?

Mr. Blodget — The grist-mill is the teeth of the cow. Tlie meal is
first corn in the ear, the cow makes meal of it.

Mr. Bliss— That is a different matter. I do not object to feeding
corn so that the cow must masticate it, but I do object to feeding raw
ground meal.

Mr. Lewis — That is my position.

Mr. Hawley spoke of the superior advantages of nutritious grasses
and good pastures, and the importance of maintaining these pastures.

The next speaker to claim the attention of the convention was J. H.
Eeall, of Philadelphia. He spoke of the "General Interests of
Dairymen." The following is his address :

IS CHEESE A WHOLESOME ARTICLE OF FOOD ?

Your true friend, a gentleman who has done noble services, not
only suggesting valuable ideas for your consideration with his pen
and by public speeches, but who has, as the reports of your meetings
prove, labored incessantly to promote your interests, delivered an ad-
dress upon this subject a few years since, which exhausted the matter
in almost every particular. We refer toL. B. Arnold, Esq., your very
efficient secretary. Your Association proved its intelligent apprecia-
tion by adopting that essay as the prize article ; therefore, that Cheese

61

is a wholesome article of food, you believe as we do, most decidedly,
aud we believe it, not on account of any chemical analysis, but because
we know it to be from actual experiment. There is, we are sorry to
say, a great prejudice against the use of Cheese in the minds of a large
majority of the American people, not because they have found it un-
wholesome, but it is because many of our physicians and others who
know nothing practically of the matter, say that it is.

We shall not attempt to argue upon scientific grounds, but shall
look at the subject in a practical light.

That milk contains all the elements necessary to sustain and sup-
port life, you are aware. No other article does this. Pare (Jheese,
(we mean full cream cheese,) contains all the elements of milk, but
water and some of the sugar. It is perfectly wholesome. Look at the
English people : where do you find a more healthy race. They eat
just 100 2)er cent, more cheese than we do, and had they the mean^ of
obtaining it they would eat twice as much more. (Cheese may not be
wholesome for a poor, miserable dyspejitic, or for those who spend
their lives in idleness, but all active, healthy men may eat it with
benefit.) Before the English can get our cheese, however, no less than
four different classes of men must have a profit from it, besides f of a
cent per pound being paid for ocean transportation, and 5 per cent,
more of other charges; and yet we export nearly one-half of all we
make. We are highly gratified that we have an English demand, and
we believe everything possible should be done to encourage it, but we
need most seriously a greater lionie demand ; and the question is, how
shall we obtain it ? Not by croaking about cheese being, unwholesome, or
by our silence on the subject, (admitting that it is,) but by publicly aud
privately, at all times, and upon all suitable occasions, doing our best
to induce more people to use it. It may seem to you that we could ac-
complish but little in this way, but the large number of us engaged in
manufacturing and selling cheese can do a great deal by each one of
us talking on the subj ct. Every reform, every invention and every
great political party, bus been introduced in the same way. We are di-
rectly interested in this matter; and let us try and teach others to en-
joy the blessing of knowing that an excellent and cheap article of food
invites us to take advantage of its use. Get your newspapers to talk-
ing on the subject. Almost any one of your local papers can do as
much as all of us together in this direction, and they will aid you will-
ingly. We have no better friend to-day than the public press. It is
the engine of intelligence, the father and controller of public opinion,
and more than all things else, the protector of our rights.

The Utica Herald of this city, and the Little Falls Journtd and
Courier, are recognized as representative dairy organs throughout this
country. Their reports are consulted by all the leading cheese and
butter houses of the United .States. The Observer of this city, is also
a champion of this interest. These, and all your local newspapers
should be liberally supported. They are the cheapest and best object
upon which we can spend our money. Those gentlemanly journal-
ists, the Hon. X. A. Willard and T. D. Curtis, Esq., of Moore's Rural
Neiv Yorker, and the Syracuse Daily Standard, respectively have been
of great service to you for years back, by the many valuable ideas they
have suggested for your advancement m dairy science, and the general
interest they have displayed in your behalf; therefore, the press is
your friend, and it can render you invaluable service.

62

It is possible that more cheese would bo used in this country if a
better quality were universally offered. It is a fact, that right where
cheese is made, little good cheese is offered at retail by the merchants;
it seems as if the poorest is sold at home, and the best sent off. In
our visits to cheese factories, we have rarely found a good cheese cut
for use. When the patrons want some cheese one of the poorest ia
generally divided. This should not be so. It would probably be bet-
ter to throw the poor cheese away, rather than never cut a good one at
home. The increasing emigration to this country must naturally
create a larger demand here, unless we continue the practice of offer-
ing so much inferior stock at home ; but we trust and believe our
home demand will increase, though we do not encourage it as we
should, and that the English demand will also greatly enlarge. If we
improve the standard of our productions it certainly will. There is
now much more cheese used in the west and south-west, than in the
Eastern States. lUiuois, Wisconsin, Michigan and Iowa produce con-
siderable amounts, which are mainly used ac home, while large quan-
tities are annually sent west from Ohio and New York State.

We do not know the proportion of prime to poor cheese made in
this country, but we are proud to say a large number of factories both
iu New York and Ohio, have attained a very high degree of excellence.
Not being a cheese maker it will not appear egotistical in us to say
that much of the cheese made in these States is as fine as that pro-
duced anywhere else. We exhort those who have attained this envia-
ble position, to keep it. In a great many factories, however, much
improvement can yet be made. If we had the knowledge to tell you
how to make better cheese, we would not here have the time. Most,
if not all of those to whom I am speaking, have come here fresh from
the dairy and cheese factory, and are, as the proceedings thus far
prove, fully capable of enlightening each other in this and other impor-
tant matters. Practical ideas, based upon experience, are always the
most reliable. It is for your own interests, and for the interests of
every dairyman, that each factory should produce only good cheese.

Now, however rich your grass may be, or sweet your mountain
streams, or superior the stock of your cows, or rich the milk, without
a person who thoroughly understands his business you cannot make
good butter or cheese. Your grass, water, breed of cows and quality
of milk are all essential, but to produce a good quality of either butter
or cheese it requires great skill. There are incapable men in all trades
and professions. We see this among our ministers, lawyers and phy-
sicians, mechanics, merchants and farmers, and we observe the infe-
rior quality of the work they turn out. So there are poor cheese and
butter makers, and we doubt if they do not cause more injury than do
the incapable of almost any other class.

Cheese and butter are made from an exceedingly sensitive article,
and unless they are of prime quality, they are of comparatively little
worth. It is difficult to make either butter or cheese as it ought to
be made, and, therefore, only those who are thorough masters of the
art should be employed. The large amount of inferior cheese and
Initter produced every year prove the great number of incapable work-
men, while the large amount of really choice goods manufactured
each season also proves that there are many who are proficient, or as
near so as can be in their calling. These latter should be encouraged
by liberal pay for their services, and every dairyman and factory owner

63

should do all in his power to stimulate to a higher standard of excel-
lence, those who have the capacity to learn. It would pay much bet-
ter to give a good experienced hand $100 per month to take charge of
a factory or creamery, than let an inefficient man work for nothing.
We have a friend who lost nearly $5,000 the year before last through
incompetent cheese makers.

We now come to the matter of skimmed milk, and while we expect
no less than severe criticism from some quarters, we can truly say
that in discussing this and other questions, we express our honest
opinions, and have only for our object, in taking strong grounds
against skimming milk, the interests of every dairyman.

SKIMMING MILK.

You are aware that the factorymen in some sections are now experi-
menting in making a prime article of both Cheese and Butter from the
same milk. In making good butter they may succeed, as it must
always be composed of the same element, and is only effected either
way by the original quality of the milk and the manner in which it is
made. That prime cheese can be made at all seasons from milk, from
which a greater or less portion of the cream has been taken, Ave do not
believe. The profits of skimming may appear larger than where the
cream is all made into cheese, but that they really are, admits of seri-
ous doubt. Most of those who have practised the system are extensive
manufacturers, and we are of the opinion that the few who have suc-
ceeded in making money, can attribute their success more to the great
volume of business they have done and the speed they have employed
in selling, than to the fact that they skimmed their milk and made
butter. The leading firm that pursues this plan in Ohio has a large
trade with the South where a dry skimmed cheese appears to resist the
heat better than full cream, but a rich cheese sells there much the
best. Other manufacturers, however, must market their cheese in the
East and North where the quality cannot be too good, and where,
unless there is a scarcity of cheese, as sometimes is the case, in the
summer months, only full meated cheese will sell advantageously.
There are times as we have just suggested when this quality of cheese
will sell at a profit, but it often remains on hand while full cream
cheese sells readily, and eventually has to be sold at from one-half to
three-fourths the value first placed upon it. All dealers know that
skimmed cheese will not keep nearly as well as full cream. It is
affected by any dampness of the atmosphere that may exist during the
summer, and is at all times very sensitive. We have known it t()
depreciate over 50 per cent, in 30 days, and in CO to become entirely
worthless, both from wet and dry atmosphere. We have seen skimmed
cheese put in a cellar and in a month have an accumulation of ani-
malculae with the appearance of brown dust a quarter of an inch in
thickness over the top.

In fine, unless used at once, some one eventually loses money on
skimmed cheese of this description. Put upon the market and sold as
good cheese it nominally brings the same price at times, but it is not
frequently sold promptly. If the commission merchant to whom it is
sent does not find immediate sale for it, it spoils upon his hands and
he is severely blamed, while the shipper is very much disappointed in
the price realized. If, on the other hand, he succeeds in selling it,
unless the buyer gets it off his hands for consumption at once, he

64

loses money and confidence besides. For this reason many leading
grocery houses in the different cities that could sell a large amount of
cheese will not deal in it at all ; and thus the trade is more or less
restricted, and good cheese suffers indirectly in consequence. But
this is not alL No shipper can, with safety, send this quality of cheese
to Europe. There is too much risk of its spoiling on the way there,
and more risk of its not suiting the European markets. The English
people will pay good prices for good cheese nearly all the time, but
ordinary stock must be sold low to get it into use. Their whole cry is
for fulhmeated, close-made cheese. They want it full-meated that it
will sell, and close-made to withstand a warm atmosphere. An English
shipper will not pay within three cents per pound for cheese made in
factories where butter is churned as he will for full cream stock ;
neither will the English markets pay as much by 10 to 15 per cent.,
as we have learned by actual trial. Therefore, we are convinced that
trying to make good butter and good cheese from the same milk does
not, m the end pay: and the sooner it is discontinued the better. If
continued to any extent the cheese market will be so effectually injured
that many factories will have to close. 'J^he demand will decrease just
as the quantity of this grade of cheese increases. If you wish to
make butter, do so, but don't undertake to get too much from one gal-
lon of milk. While you may make butter exclusively, you can work
up your extra milk into common skimmed cheese and sell it as such,
but do not make a counterfeit article. We put the matter upon a
pecuniary basis entirely, and believe it does not pay financially to pur-
sue the course referred to ; but looking at it morally, it is certainly
wrong to sell cheese as full cream that in reality is only half. If the
merchant were to sell sugar that was half sand, or cloth as wool that
was half cotton, he would be cheating, and if a man makes coin one-
half brass and the other gold and passes it for the genuine article, he is
punished for counterfeiting. Misrepresentation should not pay and
rarely does — -never, in the lung run.

As has been often said, good cheese will always sell. There has never
been too milch made yet. It is not the quantity but the quality that
most seriously affects prices. Skimmed stock is generally forced on
the market, and all who handle it until it reaches the consumer feel
that they must get it off their hands as soon as possible, and thus
prices are reduced. It is generally offered so miTch cheaper than really
prime cheese that the latter is neglected at once, and before it can be
sold its price must be reduced. Poor cheese, therefore, not only makes
a loss to the party producing, but frequently depreciates the price of
prime stock.

Our experience in handling cheese has been mostly with Ohio stock,
and our opinions formed thereon. We believe that skimming here is
less general, less radical ; much fine cheese is made in Ohio, but we
fear too many have already learned the art of skimming.

As to best description of cheese, we believe that firm, close, full,
cream-made cheese well scalded, are by far the safest kind to make.
They sell better and keep better than other cheese at all times, and
more especially in the. summer. Porous cheese often sells at from 3 to
5 cts. per lb. less than close made.

BOXING,

In boxing, we think a box a little bit larger than the cheese should
be used, just so that the cheese may be taken out and turned if neces-

65

savy, and the cover not too close to the cheese. In trimming, a little
space should be left, otherwise the lid sticks to the scale board, the two
to the cheese, and often it is impossible to get the lid off without
breaking the cbeese badly. Besides, from being put on tight the top
and bottom of the cheese obtain a bad color from not having breath-
ing room. The cover should be sufficiezitly close to prevent the box
from breaking in shipping, but no closer.

We would here enter a strong protest against using green boxes.
Factory men are often unable to obtain well seasoned ones just when
they need them, and then green ones are used. This should never be
done. Eather than put cheese in a green box we would keep it home,
for if it does not become injured before the factorj'man receives his
pay for it, it probably will before it is used. We are of the opinion
that many thousand pounds of cheese are badly damaged each year by
being packed in unseasoned boxes. There should be every pains taken
to obviate even the seeming necessity of using such packages. Your
cheese box makers are, in many instances entirely too slow, but where
it is possible, a large number of well dried boxes should always be kept
on hand.

We notice that some gentlemen recommend putting scale boards on
the cheese before it is cured. Against this we earnestly advise factory
men. The practice is not founded either upon good theoretical or
practical principles. Scale boards were only invented to preserve the
clear bright appearance of the surface of a cheese, and to prevent it
stickiug to the box. We have seen brown paper used for the same
purpose and accomplish the result.

By placing a scale board on the cheese when green, you obstruct the
necessary ventilation which every cheese needs, and thereby prevents
its curing properly. You also greatly injure its appearance, A bright
surface on a cheese aids its sale very materiall3\ As only good cheese
has a bright appearance, many have come to judge the quality very
much by this.

Last Spring a prominent spice manufacturer of Philadelphia who
owns a large dairy farm in Delaware, started a cheese factory. His
foreman, who was supposed to understand his business, worked a scale
board carefully in each end of the cheese when he pressed it. In due
season the cheese were sent to our market. At that time good stock
was worth 13 to 14 cts. per lb., and large prices were expected for this,
soon after their arrival. We were asked to l)uy tliem, and made an
offer of 4 cts. per lb. The party could not accept and therefore held
the cheese two or three weeks, doing his best to get more offered.
They were as poor stock as we ever saw, with a most disagreeable odor.
Our offer was at last accepted and was sent to Liverpool. Our friend
there writes that they are very poor, and we fully agree with him.
We do not say that all cheese scale boarded when green would be thus
seriously aifeeted, but we believe the practice would result in great
loss and injury to the trade.

COLORIXG CHKESE.

We need say little upon the subject of coloring. The increasing
intelligence of dealers and consumers has had the desired effect in
correcting the prejudice in favor of highly colored cheese, ^lot only
the different markets of our own country changed very materially in
their views of this matter in the past two ur three years, but many of
5

66

those in England have learned that a light cheese is as good as a deep
yellow one, the conditions being the same. Yon all know now that no
more desirable one can be produced than a straw shade, and light
cheese if perfect in other particulars brings a full price generally.

EAKLT MADE CHEESE.

There are two great difficulties connected with early made cheese.
The first is, that the large proportion of the cheese made before the
cows are pastured, unless they have been well fed, is almost worthless ;
and the second is to make summer cheese so that it will keep. In our
opinion unless a farmer can afford to feed his stock no cheese should be
made until the grass comes. April and May cheese, besides being
very poor, is generally skimmed closely, and hence in a short time is
unfit for use. Thousands of such cheese are put upon the market
each year, and we are sure they do not pay, while we believe they inter-
fere with the consumption of good stock later in the season. That
some of our best cheese, though made in June, July and August,
rarely bring their actual cost, is a fact. Knowing that it will not keep,
you are forced to put it on the market, and the quantity being so very
large, prices are reduced to a ruinous figure. If this could, in some
way, be obviated, a large amount of money would be saved to factory-
men each season. Not only is the price often far below the worth of
the goods in the summer of every year, but large quantities become
damaged and have to be sold at half their worth. Out of the total
amount of cheese marketed nearly one-fourth of the entire season's
make is marketed in August, and one-half in July and August, while the
other half has some months in which to be sold.

Though we greatly deplore this condition of affairs, we must advise
factorymen not to hold any cheese made prior to August 15th a longer
time after that date than is necessary for it to cure, until a remedy
can be found for this difficulty. We have never known it to pay to
hold early made cheese. However much mild cheese may advance in
the fall and winter, the earlier productions generally sell as low or
lower in the spring than when first ready for use, while the interest on
the money and a great shrinkage in weight is lost. The only remedy
we can suggest is a lighter production duing the summer months, and
we think during that time it would pay to make butter for winter use
providing you have the facilities for keeping it good.

AMOUNT PRODUCED.

The production of butter and cheese has increased each year fully
in proportion to the most prominent of our agricultural productions.
According to the last census taken in 1870, there were 3,133 men and
415 women engaged in the manufacture of cheese and butter. There
were 8,935,322 milch cows, of which New York had 1,450,667, Ohio
5,654,390, Pennsylvania 706,437, Illinois 640,321, and the aggregate
value of live stock was 11,525,276,457. In 1850, before the factory
system was introduced, there were made 105,535,893 lbs. of dairy
cheese. In 1870, 53,492,150 dairy, 109,435,229 lbs. factory; total,
162,927,382; an increase of about 50 per cent. In 1850, 314,000,000
lbs. of butter were made; in 1860, 460,000,000; in 1870, 514,000,000.
An increase of 40 per cent, in 20 years. Our exports have grown in
like proportions. From $3,321,631 in cheese exported in 1861, the
amount had, increased to $7,752,918, or over 100 per cent, in 1872.

67

New York produced in 1870, 107,147,526 lbs. of butter and 108,776,012
lbs. cheese. Ohio 50,266,372 of butter and 23,353,876 of cheese.
Pennsylvania, 60,834,644 of butter and 1,145,209 of cheese. Illinois
36,083,405 in butter and 1,661,073 in cheese. The States of Illinois,
Wisconsin, Iowa and Minnesota alone produced last year 110,000,000 of
cheese from 250 factories.

Our exports of butter however, have decreased instead of increased.
In 18f51 they amounted to $2,355,985, while in 1872 they were only
$1,493,812, a little more than one-half. This is a somewhat remark-
able fact, for while our exports were so very light last year the supply
at home was scarcely equal to the demand. Indeed, the supply last
spring was more nearly exhausted than for many years before. During
the year 1873 a large amount was exported, and to a very good advan-
tage. There was a steady demand from England, and medium grades
could be sent there to advantage most any time. From many indica-
tions we think the supply in the spring will prove unequal to the
demand. Prices have been high all the fall and winter — some 20 per
cent above last year.

It seems to us that making butter offers a splendid opening to dairy-
men, as the demand seems to be increasing much more rapidly than
the supply.

We have exported but comparatively little butter, and yet we have
run short each year. We do not know but it would pay well to give
more attention to producing butter, excepting during excessively hot
weather. It certainly pays much better than cheese when it brings 30
to 40 cts. at the dairy or creamery as it has this year.

INFLUENCE OF PRICES ON CONSUMPTION.

The popular belief that low prices induce larger consumption is an
erroneous one. Because it seems as if this should be so, reasoning
from natural laws, Ave take it for granted that it is true. The fact is
that there are more goods consumed at a medium price than at an ex-
tremely low one. This may seem to many like an impossible state-
ment, but let us examine it briefly. Take any article of produce and
let the price become very low from an over supply, and the demand
greatly decreases. Let the price begin to advance, and how speedily
the article is bought up. Cheese often gets down to 9 or 10 cts. per
lb. in the summer, and scarcely any one will buy it. When, however,
it advances to 11 or 14 cts., nearly everybody wants it. As proof of
this, last year fruits were very plenty and low, and there was very
little demand. Green apples would hardly sell at S3 per bbl., and
held all winter at $2.75. Dried fruits were plenty, and extremely
low. Peaches 4 and 5 cts. per lb. ; apples, 3 and 5 cts., and fewer
were used than ever before in our recollection. In the summer a for-
eign demand sprung up, and prices advanced in less than 90 days
over 100 per cent, on all descriptions. Peaches are now worth 11 and
12 cents, and apples 9 and 10 cents, and triple the amount has al-
ready been sold since the commencement of the season, that was used
all last winter and spring. These are only a few of the instances
known to ourselves, and we say most emphatically that low prices do
not increase consumption. It seems as if when an article of produce
gets below its actual worth or cost of production, a prohibitory curse
goes with it, that should teach all that agriculture, upon which man-
ufacturing, banking, commerce, wealth, government and all other in-

68

terests depend, must and shall be properly supported. Where would
our large cities, our elegant buildings, large works, great railroads, the
fine arts, and every necessity and comfort of life be, without the pro-
duce of the earth.

We do not advocate high prices, nor desire that any class of goods
should command more than their real worth. We believe high jorices
are generally detrimental to all classes, even in the end to the one who
receives the apparent benefit ; and yet we see no advantage m offering
any article of produce below its intrinsic value. A medium in all
things is the most desirable, A fair day's wages for a fair day's work;
a fair price for every article that man uses, a fair price for your farm-
ing implements, a fair price for your land, and a fair price for your
productions in return. Every man should be paid for his labor, but
when cheese or any other manufactured article is below its real value,
the labor of many is lost. Therefore, make your cheese so that it will
keep — make it good. Give value for value, but don't sacrifice your
property in order to increase the demand. If you do so, the probabili-
ties are you will at last be in the potter's field. Give every man a
chance, and take one chance for yourself.

Within the limited territory of this country, embraced within a
narrow belt running through a few States adapted to dairying, there
is no danger of an over production as long as our commerce with for-
eign countries remains unmolested. While beef is worth 20 to 25
cents per pound in our home markets, and brings much greater prices
in England, and cheese can be produced for less, and is of so much
greater value as a substantial article of food, its consumption must in-
crease. Look at tlie magnitude it has attained in the few years the
factory system has been employed, and the comparatively few years
before that cheese was made to any extent in the dairy, and say
whether you can make too much. We consider it one of the greatest
interests of this country, and no interest bids more favorably for a
prosperous future. While the article is cheap to the consumer, the
dairy farmer is the most prosperous of any agricultural class. A more
thrifty class of men does not exist upon the face of the earth than the
dairymen in New York State and Ohio, and your lands instead of be-
coming poorer, increase in richness each year.

The panic, happily, did but little permanent injury to agricultural
and mei'cantile interests. It was a terrible thing while it lasted, and
with the stock gamblers many good men Avent down.

But our country learned a good lesson. The trouble came at the
right time. With our National Banking system, we felt secure, and
when our rulers, those at the head of the government and the treasury
department, refused to lend the aid of the government to those who
had been strong personal friends of these officials, but who had un-
luckily caused the panic, we felt that our interests would be protected.
When President Grant declined to issue the government reserve, we
think he exhibited a moral courage fully equal to the physical bravery
he had heretofore displayed.

We believe our country now stands in a better condition than ever
before. We are nearly to a specie basis ; our manufacturers have re-
commenced operations ; our produce is wanted in Europe. The con-
tinent needs all our grain ; so much so that for months it has been
difficult to obtain vessels sufficient to carry it abroad.

69

We have now all the Eailroads we need, and while we enjoy the un-
bounded facilities of the great number which connect our country in
all its parts, let us not be too severe in censuring those who have over-
done the matter in their efforts to promote rapid and easy communi-
cation. Hereafter money will seek real estate and commerce for in-
vestment, rather than stocks. We shall be able to conduct our busi-
ness affairs more promptly, and with less trouble ; considering the
number of railroads that have been built, it is a wonder that any
money has been left on which producers and merchants could operate,
but we should remember that every dollar spent in any improvement
is distributed in a thousand diff'erent channels before settling, eventu-
ally Ijenefiting all classes.

By comparing our exports of butter and cheese with other articles
of produce, we find that we export twice as much cheese as we do
lard, and one-third as much as we do bacon and hams together, one-third
as much as we do corn, one-fifth as much as we do wheat, and nearly one-
half as much as we do flour. Our exportations of grain will be very
large for 1872, but calculating up to 1872, the exports of cheese had
increased 133 per cent, in ten years, while grain had only increased
about 38 per cent In 1861 our total exports of merchandise were a
little over $200,000,000. In 1872, something over $525,000,000. An
increase of over 162 per cent. Onr imports were $335, 650, 133 for
1861, and $573,479,587 for 1872 ; an increase of only 70 per cent. Our
exports have therefore increased 92 per cent more than our imports,
which is a most gratifying condition of affairs.

The price ol cheese has ruled almost exactly the same this year as
last from the 1st of September ; while gold has been from 4 to 5 per
cent, lower this year, and exchange but 1, which would make the price
of cheese actually f to 1 cent per pound higher this season than last,
in the face of the panic. This is very encouraging.

SHIPPING.

It may seem unnecessary for us to make any suggestions about ship-
ping cheese, as the matter seems so simple that we might think every-
one understood it. That every man who ships cheese knows when and
how it should be done, we do not doubt, but the fact is patent to every
receiver of cheese, thao many fine lots are most seriously injured in
transportation. In New York State, we believe, most of the railroads
are now running fast trains for the accommodation of this trade.
This is tlie right move in the right direction, and shows the intelli-
gence of your railroad men while it reflects credit on the enterprise of
those who obtained the change. You need fast trains above all things
else, and in those sections where you are deprived of this great advan-
tage you should endeavor to obtain it. While, however, you may have
fast trains, you can't expect to take any advantage of the privilege
unless you ship in car load lots. In the summer season you should
never put cheese in a car that is not billed directly through to its des-
tination. That is, you should always load a car or join with some one
dse in shipping. Where 35, 50, 100, or 150 boxes are sent separately,
the chances are that they will linger along the road a long time, while
a full car load would go directly through. Your own judgment and
ex])erience will teach you how green it may be shipped. We believe it
ahuuld be well cured.

70

DISPOSING OF CHEESE.

After you have your cheese made, with many of you it is a matter
of great moment as to how you can best dispose of it. You naturally
want to get all it is worth ; and whether you sell at home or consign
to some one's care you want to feel sure that you will get your pay,
and that as promptly as possible. These are matters of much import-
ance, and if you ship your cheese away you wish also to send to the
best market.

With regard to disposing of your cheese we cannot advise you.
There are many who believe that it pays to sell at home, and there
are in most localities gentlemen who make a business of buying and
shipping. Others think they make the most by sending it ofl" on their
own account. In some sections, however, it often happens that the
resident buyers will only purchase your cheese when they can make a
large profit, and, therefore, during the early part of the season you are
often compelled to avail yourselves of the commission merchant's
service.

Our opinion is that it pays a large factory owner to consign his cheese,
while smaller ones may do best by selling at home. Considered in
either light, however, it is an important matter with you, many fac-
tories in diflFerent sections have been swindled out of thousands of
dollars by the rascality of those to whom they have sold their cheese
on credit, while others have lost equally as much by sending to irre-
sponsible and dishonest commission merchants. But other trades
have just as many rascals as this. There are always plenty of scheming
scoundrels who live off of the labors of others. It is your duty, how-
ever, to be cautious in your transactions ; you can no more afford to be
cheated out of your pay for your cheese than the laboring man of his
wages, as your profits at most are small.

Those of you who prefer selling at home should sell for cash or on
short credit, and only trust such men as you know will pay you.
There are plenty of men whose word is as good as their bond. You
should credit only those in whose honor you have the fullest confidence.
Those with small means are sometimes the best men whom you can
sell to. We would much rather credit a man of moderate means who
appreciates the great trust he holds when he owes a debt, than the
man who has large means but does not. There are many of both
classes everywhere. Look out for speculators. When you see a man
buying everywhere and trying to control the markets, sell to him only
for cash. If you trust him and he fails in his calculations, you may
have to stand the loss ; while if he does well, you had better have kept
your cheese and reaped the harvest yourself. On tlie other hand do
not copy after the tradesman who wanted the cake and penny both.
Try to get the worth of your goods but do not drive a buyer off by
asking more than their value. Give a good buyer all the advantages
you can. While you are careful to whom you consign to in cities 300
to 500 miles away, where you cannot be to see or know anything of
what is going on. We wonder that as much confidence exists in com-
mission merchants as shippers display. It is a confidence that should
be very highly appreciated and no advantage ever taken of it. But as
there are rogues in every profession so there are in the commission
business, though it seems as if such scamps are like mushroons, up
and gone in a day. There have been men who have gone into the

71

business to get a few consignments and keep the proceeds, as there
have been other bogus concerns, and as there will be again, but they
do not long continue in one place. These rogues do a great deal of harm
in a short time, and shippers should be most careful not to get into
their hands. There are plenty of good men in the business in every
market of importance, and they should be patronized ; but before
trusting your goods to any man you should be fully satisfied as to hig
honesty, capability and responsibility — the three essentials. A man
may be both honest and responsible, but if he does not fully under-
stand his business he may occasion a shipper much loss either by sell-
ing his goods too low or by keeping them when they should be sold.
It may be said that you cannot find out these points, living at a dis-
tance from the parties as you do, but you can if you take the trouble
to make enquiry through your banks or your mercantile friends.

In the commission business there have always been too many
unskilled persons. A large number have gone into the trade without
any knowledge of its requirements, and lacking entirely the ability to
conduct it right. It is just as important for our merchants to under-
stand selling goods as for a manufacturer to understand making them.

These suggestions, with regard to disposing of cheese, apply equally
to butter, but manufacturers of cheese are most interested as their
business is more extensive. Those who make a business of producing
and shipping butter have already learned the importance of getting
their goods to market promptly, and placing them in the hands of
good parties. Butter should always be shipped by express during the
warm weather, and in the spring and fall it requii-es extra care in this
particular, as to save expense you are often tempted to ship by
freight when you should send by express. Too much care cannot be
taken to prevent butter being affected by the heat. It injures the
quality very materially, often depreciating its value 50 per cent. The
refrigerator cars are a good thing, but we are not prepared to endorse
them unequivocally. We are of the opinion that where butter is to be
held any length of time after arriving in market, it should not be
shipjjid in this manner. The change of temperature has an injurious
effect upon butter. When intended for immediate sale, however, we
believe it a very good plan to ship in refrigerator cars, although there
is yet much room for improvements in their construction.

CONSUMPTION OF CHEESE.

While it IS important that we should do our best to increase our
home consumption, it is of equal importance that we retain our for-
eign trade. Without an export demand there would be no outlet for
half the cheese made in this country. We cannot appreciate this
trade too highly, and instead of desiring its decrease, we should do our
best to make our export business double what it now is. During the
months of June and July of the past year the receipts of cheese at
New York city averaged about 100,000 boxes per week, while the ex-
ports averaged about 75,000 weekly, or three-fourths of the total
amount from that market alone. Not only does England take our
cheese and butter, but our cotton, Avheat, corn, pork, lard, etc.

EXPORTING.

While we argue so strongly in favor of sustaining the export de-
mand, we cannot advise direct shipments abroad. We have been often

72

advised by others that it would not pay, but we were not satisfied
until we gave the matter a fair test ourselves. We find the charges
exhorbitant, averaging 15 to 18 per cent., including freight, which is
usually less than 5. Besides a commission of 5 per cent., our English
friends charge rent, advertising, unloading, postage, dock and town
dues, double rates of insurance, and other items which make the ex-
penses fearfuly high. How are our friends who make a business of
shipping obtain a profit we cannot say, unless like the man who sold
his goods below cost, they can afford it because they do a large busi-
ness. They certainly work on a very small margin, and we may here
say of them there is no more clever class of merchants. The gentle-
men who carry on the business of shipping, each have a connection
abroad, or ship on orders. That they could not make the business
pay if they Avere subject to the high charges that outsiders are we feel
satisfied.

The only way the business can be done successfully then is^ through
a branch house in one of the English markets, and until we establish
one there, we cannot do better than sell our cheese at home to ship-
pers, when they want it. Circumstances are generally such that one
man cannot produce the article and place it in the hands of the con-
sumer direct, unless he be in some very small business ; and, hence,
the necessity of merchants of different kinds.

There was nothing that did as much to neutralize the effects of the
late panic as our export business. Europe had to have food, and she
gave us the cash for our produce. But, as it was, we suffered suf-
ficiently to prove how great was our dependence upon her support.
After the 18th day of September cotton declined to 6 cents per pound
on account of the inability of shippers to sell, exchange and make
shipments, which, made a difference in the value of that staple of over
$50,000,000 on the aggregate amount in this country. Grain also de-
clined, and cheese was somewhat affected, though the dairy products
stood the crisis better than any other kinds of produce of the same
magnitude. This proves its great importance as an article of food for
the laboring classes of England.

This is one of the most pleasant and profitable meetings of any kind
we have ever attended. You have an excellent Association, and we
only use the words of your own members, and very true ones they
are, when we say this is a highly intelligent gathering of ladies and
gentlemen. You cannot too highly appreciate these annual meetings.
The value of such an interchange of thought and experience which
they bring about cannot be over estimated. We hope you will after
leaving here retain all your former interest, and that you will appreciate
the importance of your Association more and more each year. We
shall ourselves look forward with great pleasure to your next annual
gathering, and in the meantime, we wish you all most sincerely the
fullest degTee of prosperity in all departments of life.

As Mr. Eeall closed the reading of his able and comprehensive pa-
per, the chairman announced Mr. T. D. Curtis, of Onondaga, who
spoke as follows :

ME. CUKTIS' ADDRESS.

As short papers are declared in order, I have endeavored to select a
shcrt subject, and one that nobody else would be likely to touch. It

73

is announced as " Fallacies in Cheese-Making." During the past
summer, I found the following singular paragraph paraded authorita-
tively through tiie agricultural press of the country :

" Certain parties in New York, who have manufactured the rectan-
gular cheese for two or three years past, have been eminently success-
ful, and the cheese has sold for a better price than that received for
the usual round shape. That a radical change in the shape of cheese,
from round to square, should meet with opposition and prejudice, Avas
to be expected ; but we see no good reason why the square or rectan-
gular shape should not be as well received by consumers as the others.
Indeed, in cutting, it has decided advantages, as there is less waste,
and the pieces are in a more comely shape for the table. Again, in
putting up for market, square packages are much less expensive than
round, while they take up less space in storing, or in being carried to
market."

Now, I have great respect for the press. It is a powerful instru-
ment for good, when properly used, and an equally powerful one for
evil, when improperly used. I consider it improperly used in circu-
lating such a paragraph as I have just read — one calculated to deceive
many, and lead them to needless expense and disappointment. There
is scarcely a word of truth in it; and what could be the object of any
writer in putting forth such a paragraph is more than I can conceive
— provided he knew what he was talking about.

In the first place, it is asserted " that certain parties in New York,
who have manufactured the rectangular cheese for two or three years
past, have been eminently successful." This will be news to Mr. Hol-
dridge, of Oswego, who patented the process of making square cheese.
Possibly he still has faith in his invention, but I do not believe he will
contend that he has been " eminently successful." On the contrary,
the speculation has been a losing one. He has got an extra price for
a few of his cheeses, partly because of their novelty, but more because
they were small, and it costs more to make them. Every one who
makes small cheeses of any shape expects a higher price for them, or
he would not make them. Mr. Holdridge has worked hard to intro-
duce his idea, and has induced many to try it; but most, if not all,
have met disappointment and returned to the old style of cheese. So
far as Mr. Holdridge is concerned personally, I very much regret this.
He is a worthy man, devoted to his calling, and earnest in his pursuit,
l)ut his idea, which was at first so striking and taking, has proved fal-
hicious. This is no discredit to him. Others have suffered in the
same way, and inventive minds will continue to suffer. I hope to
show, before I get through, why he failed with his square cheese.

The paragraph I have just quoted, next proceeds to intimate to us
that there is a prejudice, an unreasonable opposition, to square
cheeses, in the minds of both manufacturers and the public. So far
from it, I venture the assertion, that nine out of ten were favorably
struck with the idea of square cheeses ; but success was too problem-
atical for them to rush into the manufacture of this style of cheese.
T'his was no prejudice. It was sound wisdom that made them cling
to the sure thing until they were convinced that there was something
better for them to take hold of. Men of reason and good judgment
do not run after every new idea because it is taking at first sight ; and
i am free to say, after several years of intercourse with them, that the
dairymen are not devoid of either sound sense or laudable enterprise.

74

"Indeed," says the writer of our text, "in cutting it, [the square
cheese] has decided advantages, as there is less waste, and the pieces
are in a more comely shape for the table." This is conspicuously er-
roneous. As to shape, that depends altogether on how you cut. Bat
when the writer says there is less waste, he is mathematically wrong.
The form which exposes the least surface, is the globe. The next is
the cylinder, not less in length than its own diameter. The common
cheddar cheese is in shape the section of a cylinder. The form ex-
posing the next least surface is the cube — precisely what the long
square cheese is not. Indeed, excepting a quite thin jfiat cheese, the
square cheese made by Mr. Holdridge presents the most surface for
the bulk of any form of cheese made. There is, therefore, more rind,
and consequently more waste.

This, however, is not the worst of it. The philosophy of the square
cheese is fallacious. Mr. Holdridge has theoretically very correct ideas
about how a cheese cures. But in practice, he fails lamentably when
he makes square cheese. The idea suggested in curing them is that
of drying. One of his arguments in their favor was that they need be
turned only a quarter of the way over, leaving near the surface, at the
side, to dry out, the moisture which had settled to the bottom, instead
of turning it to the top, to settle back again through the cheese, as he
said is the case when we turn the common cheddar. This supposi-
tion that drying is any necessary part of the curing process, is sheer
fallacy. But it is not one peculiar to the inventor of square cheese.
It has been, and is now entertained by others. Our curing rooms are
quite as often called " drying rooms." This is a misnomer, and has
its origin in a mistaken idea of the process of curing. The more
cheese is dried the less it is worth. A western gentleman, whose
name I forget, tried the making of square cheese. He indorsed Mr.
Holdridge's statement, made before one of the conventions of this as-
sociation, that the square cheese dries more the first thirty days than
the cheddar-shaped, but less afterward. "Mine," he said, "got so dry
at the end of thirty days that it was impossible for them to get any
drier." This will always be the case with long square cheese not ex-
ceeding thirty pounds in weight. If nmde soft enough so that they
will not dry up like bricks, they will rot like carrion. And I must say
that I have never yet seen a square cheese of as sweet flavor, nor a
small cheese of any kind as well cured, rich and buttery as a large
one. The trouble is that they "dry up " instead of "cure down."

The curing of a cheese requires a peculiar kind of fermentation.
For this reason it ought to be kept at. an even temperature of about 72
degrees. If it is lower, it generates vinegar ; if it goes much higher,
it generates alcohol, or something worse. Vibrating between the two
extremes, as it does, the character of the fermentation is uncertain,
and the quality of the cheese undecided. It may be good, bad, or in-
different, but is seldom right. The curing room should therefore be
kept at an even temperature, and not too dry, but well ventilated. The
cheese, too, should be of considerable size. I think it should weigh not
less than 50 pounds, and I prefer one that weighs 80, and even 100
pounds, for good curing. In such a cheese there is some rich meat,
and as with the melon, the heart is the best. If I were to make square
cheese at all, I would make cubes of not less than ten or twelve inches
in diameter. These would cure much the same as the cheddar of
nine or ten inches hight.

75

But I would not make square cheeses. They would be bad to han-
dle, and too expensive to box, while there would always be great dan-
ger of knocking the corners off — the dry, hard corners — for they M^ould
surely dry instead of cure. The paragraph with which I opened my
paper concludes : " Again, in putting up for market, square packages
are much less expensive than round, while they take up less space in
storing or in being carried to market" — all of which is fallacious, save
that they would occupy less space. No form of wooden box is so
strong, cheap and light as the round cheese-box. It is made of
quarter-inch stuff, but the cylindrical form, making its sides a series
of arches, enables it to resist a great pressure. A square box would
have to be made of much heavier stuff, and be put together at every
angle with heavy nails or screws ; whereas, our cylindrical box is fas-
tened at but one place, and a few soft tacks are all that are needed.
And then the handling ! Imagine yourself boxing, carrying to the
door and loading square cheeses ! There would be no roll to them —
nothing but dead weight, sharp corners and lugging lifting. Now
you flop your box on its side, give it a kick, and away it rolls, to your
great relief and satisfaction. I do not think you wish it square. And
as to room, you can get on a load of cheddar shapes, and do not much
mind the spaces between the boxes. They cost nothing, and weigh
nothing. So much for square cheeses.

At the risk of occupying more than my share of the time, I must
touch upon another great fallacy in cheese-making. To my astonish-
ment, I read as follows, in the Rural Neiv Yorher, about the partially
skimmed cheese exhibited at the Central New York Fair, by the
Blanding Brothers — gentlemen whom I respect, and who know their
business and on which side their bread is buttered. You could never
make them believe their bread is buttered when it is not; yet, what I
have to quote would lead one to suppose they could:

" It has been asserted that good cheese cannot be made from
skimmed milk, but no better proof of the fallacy of this notion could
be offered than the skim cheese which Mr. Blanding presented for
inspection at the fair. Some of the experts who cut it with the iron
pronounced it prime, declaring it would sell equally well with good,
whole-milk cheese in any market. Under the thumb and finger it was
mellow and apparently full of meat, while its flavor was clean, sweet
and nutty. Here, then, was demonstrated what intelligence and skill
in the manipulation of milk are able to accomplish, viz.: that two pro-
ducts, butter and cheese, can be produced from the same milk, placed
in separate packages, each proving excellent, and comparing favorably
with ))roducts where the milk is treated exclusivelv for the one or the
other."

This is most remarkable ! But I will not call in question the sin-
cerity of the author. He probably wrote as he understood. What he
says about the butter, is true enough. The disposal of the milk after
skimming has no sort of influence upon the product of the cream, I
can assure you, although the closing sentence of my quotation might
lead one to think otherwise. But that their cheese on exhibition was
})rime, or would deceive John Bull, or any capable buyer for the English
market, I venture to say the Blanding Brothers never dreamed. Tliev
did not enter it for flne cheese, but for the best display, and succeeded
in getting the second premium.

76

There is a limited'''demaiid for that kind of cheese, because it stands
the hot climate of the_,South better than richer cheese, and they there-
fore succeed in getting a good price"^ for it. Indeed, it was excellent
for its kind, and was not skimmed to'the extent that the reader of the
quoted paragraph might be led to suppose. But it plainly showed the
skimming, to even an ordinary judge of cheese.

It is possible, late in the season and with very rich milk, to take off
a portion of the cream, and still make a cheese of average quality ;
but if the per cent, of cream is reduced below ten or twelve, the pro-
duct will be so impoverished that it will not pass muster, as prime, in
the English market. And I think that the practice of skimming has
already become so common that it is doing serious evil in two ways :
It lowers the standard and the price of American cheese abroad, and
it discourages and decreases consumption at home, where we should
find our greatest and best market. I speak from observation, and from
experience in my own family. Put a plate of rich, fine cheese on my
table, and it soon disappears ; but if a skimmed or any way inferior
article is placed there, it remains, and appears meal after meal, until it
is dried harder than a square cheese. Persons often say to me, as they
sit at my table, " This is the best cheese I ever ate ; where did you get
it ? I never get hold of such cheese." Of course, I give them the best
information I can, and assure them, as I do you, that the best cheese
made is none too good for me. This shows to me that if really fine
cheese were as plenty in market as poor cheese is, consumption would
be doubled. But it we are carried away with the fallacy that people
cannot tell skimmed cheese from cream cheese, we shall continue to
have a preponderance of unpalatable cheese in the market. People
may not know what the matter is, but you cannot convince them that
they relish it.

And, after all, supposing skimming did not deteriorate the quality —
as it most assuredly does — what would be the great gain in eating less
butter in your cheese and more on your bread ? The human system
requires a certain amount of the ftits, as well as of the nitrogenous
elements, and one of the most healthful and agreeable forms of fat, is
butter. Why not eat it with your cheese, as nature designed, and do
less skimming and churning ? Taking the cream from milk to be
made into cheese is a way of robbing Peter for the benefit of Paul,
that will be found, in the end, a losing game. For this is a world of
compensations, and we can not rob nature in any shape Avithout being
robbed in turn. If we prey upon her in one direction, she will strike
a balance by preying upon us in another, and thus an exact equilibrium
is preserved. The rhymster thus ludicrously expresses the idea of
compensation in nature :

Great fleas have little fleas

Upon their backs to bite 'em ;
And little fleas have lesser fleas,

And ^0 ad infinitum.

The great fleas themselves, in turn,

Have greater fleas to go on,
While these again have greater still,

And greater still, and so on.

It is better to be honest with nature as well as with men, and not
bite if we do not want to be bitten. If we take the butter out of our

cheese, we lessen the quantity and lower the quality, while we increase
the amount of butter and correspondingly diminish the price. If we
make tallow into a substitute for butter, we correspondingly diminish
the demand for real butter, which is already small enough, and put up
the price of tallow by creating a new demand for it. In this way a
balance is struck ; and though here and there an individual may be
benefited, others are equally injured, and there is no real gain to the
public.

MR. HOLDRIDGE's ADDRESS.

Mr. President: — I am at loss to understand why this unwarranted,
mahcious and entirely unexpected attack is made upon me and upon
the cheese I have for live years past made with success and profit. I
have never brought this subject before this convention and would not
now care to do so, but self defence requires that I meet the inisrepre-
sentations of this pretended Ajax of Agriculturists. And I shall
attempt to show by a few facts, that the article from which Mr. Curtis
has quoted, is true in every respect. I am not a public speaker, not
even like the gentleman, a writer of fancy theories. I have been a
practical cheese maker for more than 20 years, have learned my theories
in the vat, press, and curing room, and although I must yield to my
friend in " dress parade," I am not yet prepared to sit at his feet for
cheese making wisdom.

I do not pretend that all square cheese made has been good cheese,
no more than will my friend insist that all round cheese is of first
quality. But few parties have made this cheese, and I have yet to
learn of a single instance where the cheese proved to be poor beccmse
this shape tvas adojyted, and in several instaiices I know where cheese of
an inferior grade brought a fair price when in this shape, and the
buyer informed me, that had the same cheese been made in common
form and size, he could not have bought it at all. It is a new thing. I
admit it is worth a little more to make it than to make large round
cheese, but it can be made very much cheaper than any round cheese
of same weight.

My factory is a small one. Yet I have for the past five years aver-
aged nearly or quite two cents more per pound for my cheese, than have
the neighboring factories for large round cheese, and my percentage of
cheese to number of pounds of milk used has been fully equal to
theirs.

Mr. PittCushman of Edmeston, N. Y., made this cheese with success
and profit, and Messrs. Sage Bros. & Co., of Ncav Berlin, N. Y., have
made and have used much of it, and last fall their orders for it far
exceeded the supply, and I respectfully refer any dairymen here, who
care to investigate the truth or fairness of Mr. Curtis' statement, to
these gentlemen.

I have labored for years to make a cheese that would keep well, and
to de\ise some form in which small cheese could be profitably made and
handled, and I believe I have discovered the proper form and size, and
I have protected my invention by Letters Patent, but I have never sold
patent rights, and have labored diligently to perfect my plan.

The gentleman has made this attack wholly on his own assumption
without any foundation in fact, for some sinister purpose best known to
himself, and without taking the trouble to seek information upon the sub-
ject ; perhaps that is the way he can write best, and possibly he knows

78

all matters relating to clieese making by intuition. How he learned
that the speculation had been a losing one is a mystery to me, unless
it be that the loss of his patronage, and the advantage of Ms great
experience in cheese making, are irreparable losses to me. I have man-
aged to make cheese and live by it without these great advantages. It
pays me and my patrons to make this cheese. 1 make it myself, so I
know the extra work required, and I receive the money from the milk
of from 30 to 35 cows, and I know I get more money than I could get
for large round cheese.

Had Mr. Curtis chosen to make inquiries as to boxes he would have
learned that my boxes cost 20 cts. per 100 lbs. of cheese, are compact,
strong, easy to handle, and every way preferable to the round boxes he so
delights to kick, and for whose system of " kicks and flops," so large a
bill IS annually paid for cooperage. The gentleman graciously admits
that " dairymen are not devoid of either sound sense, or laudable enter-
prise," and if he will permit them to retain those admirable qualities,
X have no fear for the future of my form of cheese. If it pays to make
it they will adopt it.

We all know that even here in this great dairy centre, bad cheese is
made, and sometimes by good makers, and I do not believe there is a
cheese maker here who will not admit that even he, has at times,
made cheese that was not faultless — aad they were " large, round
cheese, too " — and when bad cheese is made, a scape-goat is usually
looked for, and one is ready to believe almost anything to blame but
himself.

Now, I had the pleasure of visiting the cheese factory of the " Wes-
tern gentleman," whose name Mr. Curtis eo conveniently forgets. He
was making some square cheese and some round cheese, and very
much poor cheese. iSome were hard — some very soft, and the hard
cheese were by no means all square ones. Some of the round ones
were almost as hard as a grindstone, and some of the square cheese
would hardly hold together. He had some of the square cheese on a
shelf in his curing room directly under, and about 18 inches from a
heated stove pipe, and 1 submit to any dairyman if that were a proper
place to cure cheese — or if such a maker's experience is of much ac-
count. I was there when the parry came who purchased this man's
cheese, or most of it, and we tried many of the cheese, both round and
square, and the purchaser said, (whac any one could see,) that the
square cheese were the best cured, and the best cheese — and in several
instances, cheese round and square had been made from the same curd.
Now this maker, like the gentleman here, was one of these talking
cheese makers, — could discourse learnedly on cheese-making, but
couldn't make a decent cheese, no matter in what shape he pressed it.
He needed a scape-goat, and might as well have added that the square
cheese made all the round ones m the same room, hard and of inferior
quality.

As Mr. Curtis has gon.e so far out of his way to more than answer
the obnoxious paragraph, permit me to refer to his cheesc-making
theories, or a few of them, that we we may see how much his opinion
is really worth, and how we are to measure it ; whether we are to take
it at 16 ounces to the pound, or whether we ought not to alloio a
little.

I will consume no time in combating his theory of curing cheese.
I believe my cheese is well cured. I have one here made last June,

79

which I wish you to examine, as to all dairymen and dealers, a good
taste of it will do more to satisfy them, than all the theories written.

My friend prefers large, round cheese, and says he has " never seen
,1 small cheese of any kind as well cured, rich and buttery, as a large
one." This statement not only shows profound ignorance, but is
quite on a par with his other assumptions, by which he wishes dairy-
men to draw inferences prejudicial to square cheese, since almost ev-
erybody who pretends to any knowledge in cheese matters, knows that
the Stilton cheese — notorious the world over for its richness and ex-
cellence— is. a small cheese, weighing less than ten pounds, the weight I
have adopted. There are also other small cheeses, like the Edams,
which have a world-wide reputation. It is an easy matter for men to
make assertions, but not so easy always to find their proofs. And I
ask the gentleman for the proofs of what he asserts. I have named
dealers and makers of the square cheese who are in this convention,
and who will bear me out in my statements. Will the gentleman do
the same? Surely in this large convention he ought to find some one
to sustain his assumptions, if they be correct. And I appeal to this
convention, if Mr. Curtis ought not, seeking the high position he
afltects as a leader and teacher of us dairymen, to have apprised me of
this intended attack, or that the matter would be discussed in this
convention ; but I fear that fair discussion of the matter is not what
the gentleman desires. Again, if his theory as to large, round cheese,
be a correct one, why are factories gradually reducing the size of their
cheeses ? Has not all experience shown that large cheese cannot be
cured so well, and will not keep their flavor so well as small ones ?
And is it not a problem we have long tried to solve as to how we
could best and profitably make small cheese ? And I ask whether
this advice for dairymen to return again to the making of large cheese
be sound, or whether the adviser he a safe man to follow 9 Is the dan-
ger of loss in making a few square cheese so very great as to alarm
the country, and require such a tremendous heavy blast of warning
from this watchman of dairying interests ?

He says if he were to make square cheese he'd make them cubical
in shape. I don't doubt that that is consistent. That form has been
well tried, and was a total failure — the cheese would not keep their
shape, and did not cure so well as in the oblong form I have adopted.
Yet I don't imagine these little objections would deter my agricultural
friend from making " cubes."

I have already occupied too much time — much more than I intended
to, to answer this attack, but I feel that I have been unwarrantably
abused " in the house of my friends," by one, of whom I had a right
to expect better things, and you must excuse me for my warmth in
repelling his assumptions and false statements.

I shall not attempt to refute the onslaught on my friend Mr. Blan-
ding, and the cheese on exhibition at the Central New York Fair.
Doubtless the same spirit that prompted the one attack, prompted the
other, Mr. Islanding is here, and able to defend his case, but is prob-
ably at as much of a loss as I am to understand why we two were
singled out for slaughter. But it seems to me the whole animus of
the wanton and uncalled for address of the gentleman Avill be seen in
the two verses of rhyme which he gives as a closing shot, followed by
this singular paragraph: "It is better to be honest with nature as
well as with men, and not bite if we do not want to be bitten." The

80

gentleman seems to be in a biting mood, but whether he is the " great
tiea," or the " little one/' referred to in his poetry, I am unable to
determine.

I hope my invention will not harm the dairymen of New York or
elsewhere, and I hope none of them will make square cheese unless it
pays them to do so. The demand for the cheese is increasing, and I am,
v/illing to bide my time, make square cheese, just as good cheese as J
can make, and join hands with all my brother dairymen in promoting
our common welfare, and I trust I may never come beiore this conven-
tion to wrong a brother dairyman, or to endeavor to create distrust
and prejudice against the cheese he may manufacture.

WEDNESDAY AFTEENOON.

The first reader of the afternoon was Hon. X. A. Willard, of Herki-
mer. His subject was:

A DIVERSITY OF SOIL ADAPTED TO DAIRYING.

The idea that the dairy business can be successfully prosecuted only
in a few favored localities and upon a certain kind of soil has, for
some years, been gradually giving way, as knowledge and experience
have from time to time abundantly demonstrated the fallacy of this
notion. Before the factory system was introduced, and when the art
of making fine butter and cheese was confined to a comparatively few
people, and to certam sections of the country, the failure to produce a
good article in new localities was, naturally enough, attributed for the
most part to the soil, or some defect in the food which it produced.

It is true the food which the cow eats has something to do with the
quality and flavor of the goods made from ber milk; but it has been
found that good milk can be produced from a great variety of grasses
and other foods, and is not confined within the narrow limits which
was at one time supposed.

It was Mr. Harding, the great exponent of Cheddar cheese-making
in England, who first announced the proposition, I believe, that good
cheese could be made from the milk of cows pastured on any kind of
soil that would grow good grass. He was employed by the Scotch ag-
ricultural societies to go into Scotland and introduce the Cheddar
method of cheese manufacture, and he found that quite as good cheese
could be made by this process in Scotland as in Somersetshire, Eng-
land, although in some instances the milk required skill, and a wide
difierence in its handling.

He concluded, therefore, that good cheese could be made from the
milk of cows pastured on a diversity of soil, by skill in manipulating
the milk, and that the not unfrequent failures, experienced by old
dairymen, in making a fine product, when changing from one locality
to another, were due, in a great measure, to want of variation in the
handling of milk, and in not adapting their process of manufacture to
meet circumstances, or the new conditions of the locality where they
were placed. These views are, without doubt, in a great measure cor-
rect, if climate and water be suitable to dairying. That an opposite
opinion prevails among many on this question, I am aware. Hon.
John Stanton Gould, in his recent address at the New York State
Dairymen's Convention, in Chautauqua county, referring directly to
the points of the question as I have thus presented, says as follows :

81

"This statement, though very probably true, is diametrically opposed
to the conclusions that I have drawn from the observations of my
whole lifetime. I have never seen butter,*' he says, " that would keep
sweet for many months that was made on soils where hard water pre-
vailed. 1 did not suppose it was j^ossible to make as delicious butter
in Onondaga county as is made in Delaware. I am entirely deluded
in my judgment if a glass of milk from cows pasturing on the red soil
of Delaware county, is not sweeter and more delicious than that
from any other portion of the State. If cheese have been made in Or-
leans or Niagara counties equal in flavor to those made in Herkimer
and Otsego, I have never tasted them. * * * The deliberate con-
clusion chat I had come to was, that the first-class dairy productions
could only be obtained upon certain special soils," &c., &c.

Mr. Gould subsequently admitted that the milk, the butter and the
cheese of Chautauqua county, as he saw and tasted them during the
convention, were of such excellence as to be fatal to conclusions held
previously to his coming into the county. He would have been equally
surprised, I think, by comparing the cheese made at the Plymouth
factory, Chenango county, and that at the Eushford factory, Alle-
gany, with the best of that made anywhere in the State. Of course it
must be understood that my remarks have reference to soils in cli-
mates suitable to dairying, and where there is no impediment from
lack of good fresh water. Climate and water have a controlling influ-
ence on the production of fine dairy goods. Intense and long con-
tinued heat, even though it may be overcome by artificial means in
the care and manipulation of milk, cannot be so Avell guarded against
in the udder of the cow, or during its secretion. Nor can the best
character of milk be expected from animals that are continually teased
and worried by swarms of flies and insects. Again, some grasses are
doubtless better for milk than others, but if certain grasses are not
found indigenous to a soil, it is not proof that the soil is unadapted to
the particular grass, or that it will not grow with great luxuriance, if
the seed be once planted in it.

I have seen it stated that the blue grass of Kentucky is not indige-
nous to the region where it grows in such perfection, but that it was
introduced there by the early settlers, and thus found a most con-
genial soil and climate for its growth. This adaptability of soils for
certain plants, not indigenous to it, is by no means uncommon, for
we are constantly being made acquainted with the fact in our practical
experience. Again we are accustomed to speak of certain grasses and
plants, which we think are best adapted to the production of fine fla-
vored goods.

Yet we are told there are 6,000 known varieties of grasses, and if our
farmers have knowledge of, and have experimented with only half a
dozen varieties, how can we say that these varieties are the best? I
am of the opinion that some of our^,native grasses, not yet common in
the soils of New York, are quite as nutritious for stock, and quite as
well adapted to the production of fine flavored dairy goods, as those
grasses which, in the limited experience and observation of many of
our farmers, are now pronounced the best.

But that the character of dairy products is not so much influenced

by soils as has been commonly supposed, is proved by the continued

approximation which different sections are making from year to year,

tv> a high standard of excellence in both butter and cheese. A few

6

82

years ago Ohio cheese had a bad name in the home and foreign mar-
kets. But of late it has been so improred, that some of our eastern
markets, like Boston and Philadelphia, find it quite equal to that ob-
tained from New York.

Two years ago, I made an examination at Wellington, Ohio, of a
large quantity of cheese. The tests were made in company with sev-
eral well known dealers, among whom may be named that very excel-
lent expert, Mr. David H. Burrell, of Little Falls, and we found a
number of factories which were exceedingly fine. Mr. Burrell and
myself made a similar test of cheese, last winter, in Michigan, and we
were both greatly surprised at the excellency of the product.

Fine cheese is also produced in IlUnois and in Wisconsin. Canada has
so improved her product, that it begins to be greatly desired in the
English markets, and prices are obtained for it, not inferior to that
obtained for much of the NeAV York make.

These facts, I think, must prove that the dairy may be carried over
a broader extent of country than many have supposed, and that where
climate and water are favorable, we may reasonably hope to make dai-
rying successful on a varie .y of soils — if they are fertile and arable —
by a proper manipulation of the milk.

In 1 870, I examined some of the butter dairies of California, situ-
ated on the coast range, the most noted of which are those on the es-
tate of Howard and the Shafter brothers at Port Reys. The estate
embraces 75,000 acres, and about 3,000 cows were then in milk, the
dairies being divided up into ranches, with herds numbering 150 cows
each. The grass depended upon is the bunch grass and wild oat
grass, and the quality of butter manufactured is very fine in texture,
color and flavor. The climate here ranged at about 60" the year round.
I need not speak of the superiority of Point Eeys butter, as it has
been fully tested in eastern markets, and has been pronounced
excellent.

During the past summer I went out with the New York agricul-
tural editors, in an excursion through Virginia, Missouri, Kansas,
across the Indian Territory to Texas, and returning to Kansas City,
we took our way westward to Colorado, Wyoming and Utah. There
is much fine dairy land in West Virginia, in Missouri and in Kansas,
Northern Texas is a grass growing section, but the climate appeared
to me to be too warm for the successful production of dairying during
the summer months.

The Arkansas and Nebraska valleys in Kansas are pretty well
watered, grass is abundant, and Kansas is a good dairy State. The
dairy lands of Colorado are at the foot of the Rocky mountains, and in
the canons and parks of this wonderful region. Here it seemed to
me that fine butter could be made successfully and upon a large scal&.
The Rocky mountains run in a northerly and southerly direction
across Colorado, cutting the territory nearly in the center. The
mountains are not a simpJe ridge or range, but embrace several, and
are in some places from 200 to 300 miles across. The parks are vast
grassy plains within the mountains. They have an elevation from
8,000 to 9,000 feet above the sea level, and the mountains that enclose
them are from 4,000 to 5,000 feet higher. Some of these parks are
over 100 miles long by 80 miles broad, or the size of some of the New
England States.

The canons and parks are well watered by sweet, cold water, com-
ing from the melting of the snow and ice from the mountains.

83

But the parks, enfolded within the windings of the mountains, are,
perhaps, the most distinctive and remarkable feature of the whole for*
mation. Valleys of rich fertilitj^ and exquisite beauty, mortised as it
were into the rugged mountains, and lifted aloft thousands of feet
above the sea ; they are as marvellous as they are unique. They open
upon the traveler, at frequent intervals, in charming unexpectedness,
rich with grass and water, with trees and flowers, with soft beauty of
outline, and warm beauty of color, in most admirable contrast to the
rough rocks and white snow of the high ranges around.

The climate of Colorado in summer is dry and comparatively cool,
especially during the night, and as you approach the foot-hills and the
mountains. The winters of Colorado are mild, and the absence of
deep snows, together with the dryness of the climate, prevents the de-
cay of grains, and allows them to cure on the ground, retaining all
the nutrition, and enabling stock of all kinds to live and fatten by
grazing the year round. Old stock-men with wiiora I have conversed
claimed that the mild climate during winter, especially in central and
southern Colorado, obviated the necessity of artificial protection to
stock during any season of the year, while others thought it advisable
to provide places of shelter with some storing of fodder in case of se-
vere storms, which occasionally occur, and when it is diflficult for
stock to pick their living from the plains.

It is evident that a country like that of Colorado, where stock at
most require but little artificial protection, and but a small quantity
of food stored up above that which is obtained from growing, to carry
it through from one end of the year to the other, must have great ad-
vantages over the East, where the cost of raising and storing a supply
of winter fodder, is a serious drawback on the farmer's income.

GRASSES.

The most esteemed grasses on the j^lains, are the Buffalo grass, the
Mesquit or Gana grass of the West, and the bunch grass. Nearer the
mountains there is, in addition to the Mesquit, a kind of grass, which
has the local name of " blue grass," and another called " blue-joint,'"
both of which are very nutritious, and are highly esteemed.

Mr. Stone, of Pueblo, whom I met on my way to Colorado Springs,
assured me that timothy, red top and clover were indigenous to the
country, and that large patches of these were found growina: wild in
the canons and parks. It is true, in my subsequent journeys m the
canons, I saw patches of timothy grass in growth, and I also saw it
growing above Wilson's, near Bergen Park, but I am not satisfied that
this grass is indigenous, but susj^ect that whenever it is found grow-
ing without cultivation, if indeed it does so grow, the seed must have
been introduced by teamsters in traveling over the mountains.

CURIOUS FACT ABOUT RED TOP.

Red top grows with great vigor and yields enormous crops both in
Colorado and Utah, especially on irrigated grounds, and it is a curious
fact, at least curious to me, that these alkaline soils seem particularly
well adapted to the growth and perfection of this grass. At Salt Lake
I saw very heavy crops of red top on the lower benches of land, without
any s})ecial irrigation, though the land received moisture from the waste
water used in the culture of crops on liigher land. In the instance
referred to, the lands had never been bi'okeu up, but red top seed had

84

simply been scattered on the surface of the ground in its natural state,
and yet it had taken root, and was yielding enormous crops. The
Mormons told me that the alkaline lands seemed specially adapted to
the growth of red top, and the crops which I saw seemed to prove that
statement.

NUTRITIVE VALUE OF NATIVE GRASSES.

The native grasses of Colorado, whether on the plains or at the foot
of the mountains, are very nutritious. This is proved by the sleek,
thrifty condition of the numerous herds feeding upon her natural
pastures.

The testimony of every stock raiser and farmer of whom I inquired, and
they were numerous, was that the native grasses were more nutritious,
and better relished by stock, than the cultivated grasses of the East,
Men of undoubted integrity who were brought up farmers in New
York, Pennsylvania and the New England States, and who had been
living in Colorado for some time, engaged in cattle raising and other
kinds of farming, all seemed to agree upon this question.

Some farmers who were raising the cultivated grasses, asserted that
they had repeatedly tried the experiment of placing the timothy and
other cultivated grasses nicely cured into hay before cattle, and at the
same time hay made from the native grasses, and the beasts invari-
ably would take to that made from the native herbage first.

The grass on the plains grows sparsely, and does not form that thick
solid turf, as in the pastures of New York and New England, and it is
hard for an Eastern farmer on his first view of. the plains to reconcile
the idea of these grasses, in many places brown and crisp in August,
as afibrding good pasturage for stock. And yet all the cattle which he
meets look sleek, thrifty and fat, and the beef furnished at table i&
tender, juicy and delicious. It is true, the herds at present have
immense ranges. Still, after duly weighing all the facts, one gradually
comes to the conviction that the natural grasses of Colorado are more
than ordinarily nutritious.

BUTTER DAIRYING,

So far as dairying is concerned, the country along the base of the
mountains, at the entrance of the canons, and at various places along
the sides of these deep gorges and in the parks, butter dairying can
be carried on with every prospect of success. The cool climate, the
pure, sweet, cold water, the nutritive grasses, all seem better to adapt
it to that specialty than to cheese making.

Again, the ever increasing population in " the mines " already gives
a vast demand, a permanent and enduring market, which must continue
to grow larger and larger from year to year.

There are only a few farm cheese dairies in Colorado, no factories yet
being established. Mr. Rand, whose farm is located about half way
between Golden and Denver, near the foot-hills, says he has kept on
an average as many as 25 cows since 1862, and sometimes 40 head.
During that time he has not fed 1100 of extra feed in addition to pas-
turage. His cows run out in winter and feed entirely upon grass.
He believes, however, it would be economy to raise corn fodder and
roots, and feed cows as occasion required. His cows run on the same
range during summer and winter. Two acres of his grass, as it is
now — the natural prairie grass — will afford sufficient food for a cow.

85

The natural pastures, he says, grow better from year to year as they are
fed by cattle.

If the grass lands were irrigated, one acre of natural pasturage, he
says, would keep a cow supplied with food for the year. By irrigation,
the Buffalo grass, the mesquit and blue-joint, he says, form a perfect
mat, and make as good a turf as he ever saw East.

Last year according to a statement made to me by W. F. Stone, of
Pueblo, Dr. Wm. A. Bell, an Englishman of wealth and enterprise,
residing at Colorado Springs, carried out the experiment of establish-
ing a dairy in the West Mountain valley, for the manufacture of cheese,
with marked success. About 5,000 pounds of cheese were made last
season, and found a ready market at 40c. per lb., and Mr. Stone says :
" So long as in this country milk brings 10 cents per quart, and butter
and cheese 40 and 60 cents per pound, with only the expense of herd-
ing, in addition to milking and manufacturing, this branch of industry
certainly ought not to be neglected."

In Utah, (the soil, climate and grain of which are similar to those
of Colorado,) quite a number of farm dairies, with two or three cheese
factories have been started, and are in successful operation. The
statistics of the Territory show an average production of hay from
wild grass at the rate of one and a half tons to the acre, and from cul-
tivated grasses, two tons.

But the Mormons propose to work out another problem, and from a
brief trial already made, with every prospect of success. It is to con-
duct the dairy business in all its branches upon the co-operative plan.
The plan proposed, is for the farmers of a neighborhood to put their
farms and live stock together, the whole to be managed as a company.
Thus for instance, a dozen farmers unite in this movement : one has 50
acres and 10 cows; another has 80 acres and 13 cows; another 100
acres and 20 cows, and so on, each farmer furnishing a certain number
of cattle in proportion to the size and quality of his farm. A cheese
or butter factory is now built in the most convenient spot for the
accommodation of the lands, taken as a whole together, and the expense
is borne by the members of the association pro rata, or in proportion
to the land and cows furnished by each — scrip of course being issued,
entitling each to a certain amount of stock in the concern. Then the
whole track is put under the superintendence of an experienced and
skillful farmer and manager, and the business is operated throughout
as a company matter, in the same way that other companies manu-
facturing and operating large enterprises are managed. The Mormons
claim that co-operative associations can be made to work in dairy farm-
ing quite as successfully as in other branches of business, and that the
profits are very much larger on the average for each stockholder, than
when each one operates separately. Under this system they say the
work goes on with regularity, and in a more perfect manner, under the
high skill of the best managers, while there is immense economy in
tools, in machinery, in labor, and in all the appurtenances required to
carry on farming.

George Q. Cannon, the present delegate to Congress from Utah,
gave me several instances where this plan had been adopted with suc-
cess, and he was of the opinion that the dairy business of the Terri-
tory would be largely conducted on this system. Doubtless to many
Eastern farmers the plan presented must seem very impracticable ; but
so was the associated dairy system of New York considered a few years

86

ago. No long-er ago tlian 18f)0, the majority of dairymeD in Kew York
were strongly opposed to cheese and butter factories, and predicted that
the associated dairy system must soon fall into disfavor and be aban-
doned.

As its advantages have been better understood, it has continoed to»
gain strength, and is now firmly established throughout our land^
while European nations are ackno¥/ledging its advantages and adopt-
ing it.

Perhaps the Mormons may be able to solve a gi'eat problem in agri-
culture, and show us that co-operative farming may be adopted with
equal success, and with equal advantages with that of our cheese fac-
tory system.

President Seymour suggested that the evening meeting be omitted
and that the whole time be devoted to the social reunion at Bagg's
Hotel, The president called for the vote of the convention on his sug-
gestion. The convention adopted the pi'esident's suggestion.

Mr. Sehermerhorn, of Oneida — Mr. Willard, do you think that the
western grassess you mentioned in your paper would grow in this
climate ?

Mr. Willard — I think they would, moat of them,

TESTING MILK,

Mr. S, A. Farrington, of Cattaraugus^, delivered a very iuteresting
practical address upon testing milk with the lactometer. The address
WBS illustrated by the presentation of the instruments to view and was
in part an explanation of those instruments. It is impossible for us
to reproduce this illustrated effort. SuJEfice it to say that Mr, Farring-
ton expressed and gave good reasons for a trust to the lactometer tests,
if they are used under favorable conditions and intelligently. The
lectvire was heard with marked attention. The following is

MR, FAKEINGTOli'S ADDRESS.

Mr. President and Members of the Association : I think I am en-
tirely safe in saying that in the management of our factories there is
no one thing so much neglected, and so little thought of, as that of
" Testing Milk," not only as to its natural relative value, but whether
or not it has been adulterated or diluted.

I shall not at this time describe the different methods that may be
adopted to determine the value or purity of milk, but will only refer to
the lactometer or the lactometer and cream gauge.

Throughout the entire length and breadth of the dairy section of
this country, the opinion almost universally prevails that there is "no
instrument whereby adulterated or diluted milk can be detected ;"■ '
and not a few factory patrons think the lactometer is a humbug, kept
by cheese and butter manufacturers for the purpose of making them
believe that it is possessed of some magic or other undefinablepower^ by
which they they are enabled to determine the quality of milk, thereby
endeavoring to take advantage , of the credulity of the ignorant.
Others think that if there is any real virtue in the lactometer it is so
complex and intricate, and requires so much experience and skill in
handling, that only the scientific man is competent to use it, and hence
is of no practical value in our factories. Now, both of these positions
are entirely erroneous, as there is or can be nothing more simple. As
was remarked by the eminent counsel, Judge Earl, at the celebrated

87

milk suit tried at Herkimer, N. Y., in the spring of 18G7, " God has
revealed Himself to man in two ways, by nature and by revelation, and
one is just as true and undeniable as the other." Now, the law of
gravitation (by which law the lactometer is solely and entirely govern-
ed) can no more be changed than any other law of nature. The lacto-
meter or hydrometer (as they are the same in principle) is used simply
to ascertain the specific gravity of liquids, water being taken as the
standard. Upon the same principle that the hydrometer determines
the " proof" of liquors and the saccharometer the amo.unt of sugar in
grape juice (or any other saccharine liquids) does the lactometer detect
the pressure of water in milk. As is well understood, a cubic foot of dis-
tilled water (or rain water) at a certain temperature weights 1,000
ounces, and a cubic foot of pure milk at the same temperature weighs
1,0.32 ounces. Having ascertained that the lactometer, when immer-
sed in water, will settle at a certain point, that point will always be the
same in pure water at the same temperature. Now, if it is immer-
sed in a liquid of a greater specific gravity (like that of milk) at the
same temperature, of course it will not sink so far. And the differ-
ence between the two extremes will be the difference between water
and milk, and hence I iissert, without fear of successful contradiction,
that having ascertained the point at which the lactometer will stand
in pure milk, it will always (or substantially so) stand at the same
point when immersed in milk at the same temperature that the in-
strument is regulated at, if the milk hasn't been tampered with. It
should be borne in mind that the samples of milk being tested, are all
pure and from healthy cows from the same locality and at the same
time, and produced from substantially the same food. It may be
thought that I have interposed so many conditions, that the use of the
lactometer is virtually destroyed for all practical purposes, but not so,
as I will endeavor to show, and for that purpose let me give the exper-
iments of Dr. Fleischman: He personally inspected the milk of 13
different dairies in the vicinity of Linden, Germany, containing in the
aggregate, 123 cows. He noted the specific gravity of the milk of each
cow separately and upon each day, m balk, with the following results :
"The mean specific gravity from the whole 123 cows is 1.031G908."
'• The maximum s'pecific gravity from any one of the 123 cows is
1.034300, and the minimum specific gravity from any one of the 123
cows is 1.029500," " The milk of 9 per cent, of the cows exceed 1.033
in specific gravity." "The milk of 89 per cent, of the cows ranged
from 1.033 to 1.030 in specific gravity, and the milk of 2 per cent, of
the cows was below 1.030 in specific gravity." " The mean si)ecilic
gravity of the milk from the 13 dairies ranged between 1.03005 and
1.03285, or in round numbers, between 1.031 and 1.033." You will
observe that this is a very slight variation. After these experim&nts,
says Dr. Fleisciunan: " We incur no charge of rashness if we assert
that no winter milk (obtained in sheds of at least six cows) shows a
specific gravity below 1.030 or above 1.033, and on the other hand, any
such milk which exceeds these limits in either direction is watered or
both watered and skimmed." Dr. Fleischman says further: " When
sufficient statistics have been collected as to the fluctuations in the speci-
fic gravity of milk yielded by certain breeds of cattle in certain districts,
the indications of the lactometer afford very useful and trustworthy
basis for judging of its quality." '"AH recent observations tend, in
common with our own practical experiments, to prove that the compo-

88

sition of milk is mainly dependent on the individuality of the cows and
on the breed to which they belong, and in a subordinate degree only
on the quality of the food, provided always that this be sufiicient for
the animal's wants." He says: "The specific gravity of milk having
regard only to healthy beasts kept exclusively for milking purposes, is
by no means so subject to fluctuation as people were inclined to be-
lieve." " We often hear it asserted,", continues the doctor, " that milk
which is very rich in fat runs the risk of failing under the tests of the
lactometer, because its larger proportion of fat lessens its specific gravi-
ty. This assumption is, generally speaking, a false one." Our exper-
ience has not yet reached far enough to enable us positively to deny
that a cow may somewhere be found whose milk shall be abnormally
rich in butter-fat, and yet so, relatively speaking, poor in all other
fixed constituents as to show a markedly low specific gravity. But a
case of this sort is certainly of greatest rarity, if indeed, it ever occurs
in a healthy beast. Much rather is it the rule with us that a milk very
ricli in fat is also rich in all other fixed constituents, and so still exhi-
bits a high specific gravity."

These experiments of Dr. Fleischman give evidence of having been
performed with great care and skill, and to my mind are very valuable
to the dairy public, and especially as they agree so nearly with the ex-
periments and observations of all of our most experienced factorymen
who have given their attention to the matter. At the milk suit refer-
red to, there were several eminent writers and speakers on the dairy,
and a large, number of our most practical and experienced cheese man-
ufacturers, called as witnesses with regard to the validity of the lacto-
meter as a milk testing instrument, and not one single factoryman
testified against its validity ; but, on the other hand, agreed in saying
that they regarded it a perfectly reliable and sure detective in the hands
of a careful operator. And the witnesses, both for and against the
defendant, who had given any attention to the subject, testified that
in their experience and observations in testing milk, with the lacto-
meter they had never found milk, that they knew to be pure, from a
whole dairy, to vary from that of any other dairy in the same neighbor-
hood at the same time, more than 2^ per cent. Observe how nearly
this agrees with Dr. Fleischman's experiments. And right here let
me refer to the fact that great pains have been taken to publish to the
world that the lactometer is not and cannot be taken as a legal test, or,
in other words, that a person accused of watering milk, can not be
convicted in a court of justice upon the evidence of the lactometer,
and that the verdict of the jury at Herkimer was in accordance there-
with. The turning point with that jury in its verdict has been entire-
ly overlooked or purposely withheld. The (question was not (with the
jury) whether the milk in question was watered or not, for (I state
what I know) not one of that jury, or Judge Foster, who presided, had
a single doubt of its being watered, but the point was who put in the
water, and that the lactometer did not tell — a very important feature
in the case, as the law of this State requires that before a person can
be convicted of watering milk it shall be proved that the accused
" either did it himself or knew of its being done." Allow me to say
further, that just a year from the time the first milk suit was tried at
Herkimer, there was another suit at the same place, before the same
judge. No other evidence was produced against the accused except
the lactometer, and that jury brought in a verdict of guilty. The only

89

difference in the two cases was that m the last one, when the accused
was away from home his milk came " all right " — which was evidence
to the jury that he put in the water. Here is one case at least where
the lactometer has been admitted as " competent evidence " in court,
and where conviction was tlie result of its evidence solely ; but this is
not an isolated case of the kind. As in Switzerland, the tests of the
lactometer, when properly conducted, are regarded as trustworthy, and
so much so, that in Swiss law courts all disputed points as to the qual-
ity of milk are settled by the evidence of the lactometer and cream
gauge, and from them there is no appeal. The objection is often
urged against admitting the lactometer as legal evidence, that " the
innocent may be caused to suffer." " As for instance, a person may
have a malicious and evil disposed enemy who, wishing to ruin his
character, does it by watering his milk. The objection, with equal
force, may be urged against all circumstantial evidence. But the lac-
tometer has not to depend upon circumstances for its efficiency, as its
virtue is based entirely upon a natural law and scientifie principles.
Another objection urged against the reliability of the lactometer, is
that the milk of different cows vary so much that therefore it can not
be trustworthy. Now it seems to me that Dr. Fleischman (with the
experience of every factoryman who has paid any attention to the mat-
ter) has answered this objection very satisfactorily and conclusively by
saying that milk from whole herds in the same vicinity, at the same
time,- don't vary materially. But for the sake of the argument we will
suppose that a case may occur where one patron has a herd of cows
that give milk exceedingly rich in butter, and of course the specific
gravity will vary from that of the milk of other patrons, but be it re-
membered that the same variation will be shown by the lactometer, all
through the season, consequently this objection falls to the ground.
I do not presume to say that all milk that may be pronounced pure by
the use of the lactometer, is pure, by any means, for the reason that it
may be watered, and the specific gravity restored by the addition of
sugar, salt or chalk, but that is not a question to be decided by the lac-
tometer. The question to be determined is simply this, when milk varies
from its own standard from time to tmie from 8, 10, 15, and as is some-
times the case, 25 per cent, without any assignable cause, is it pure ?
We say no, common sense says no, and science says no. In case milk
has been both skimmed and watered, it may be very easily ascertained
by using the cream gauge in connection with the lactometer. It has
been for the purpose of awakening an interest and calling • ut discus-
sion upon this matter, rather than expecting to impart any particular
information that I have taken up this subject, and if this shall be the
result, my object will have been attained.

The subject was further discussed hy Hon. Harris Lewis, of Herki-
mer. The speaker illustrated the respective amount of water, butter,
cheese and salts in a pound of milk, by different sized cubes. We
give some of the principal points of his witty and instructive address.
He expressed strong disapprobation against using the milk of sick
cows. He also impressed upon the audience, by anecdote and ilhistra-
tion, the necessity of clennliness in milking. He gave a series of
experiments showing tho ad visabihty of cooling and airing milk. The
speaker agreed with Mr. l'';,r .ington in his praise of tlio accuracy of
the lactometer. He claimed that no factory in his section had been run
ten years without finding some black sheep" among the patrons. When

90

the lactometer shows a difference in a patron's milk, one of the two
things is sure: either that milk is rich in cream or it is watered. The
way to detect the former is to compare it with some other milk, after
the cream has risen on each. If the suspected milk shows the most
cream, it is all right. If it does not show the most cream, then take a
jar of the suspected milk and test it with the lactometer. Take a jar
of milk that is all right and test that. Then pour from a gauged jar
enough water into the good milk to reduce its density to that of the
suspected milk. The per cent, of water taken from the water jar will
show to a dot the per cent, of water added to his milk by the dishonest
patron.

Mr. H. Farrington said that in an experiment made by Dr. Fleisch^
man, the milk of 123 cows was found to vary only 5-1000. The
speaker claimed that when milk showed a light density, therefore, it
was a pretty sure sign that it had been watered.

Mr. Schermerhorn, of Herkimer, claimed that if salt was used to
raise watered milk to its proper density, it might be detected by the
taste. If chalk was used, it could be detected as a sediment.

Mr. Hawley — The salinometer will detect any salt in milk.

A. L. Fish, of Herkimer — I have long since abandoned the lactome-
ter as a certain test, because the specific gravity of milk changes under
certain circumstances. Again, the friction of the milk in going to the
factory prevents the cream from rising in the proof glasses. The
density of the milk depends upon the food of the animal. Hence,
starch will produce more casein ; carrots, more cream. Corn feeds
upon gross material. In its early stages of growth, it is hurtful to
cows. It contains a great deal of alkali, unfit to be eaten by cattle.
The flowers of a plant contain the most starch. Hence, fodder should
be gathered in the flower, when food for cheese making is required.
The speaker pursued this line of argument to show that the density of
milk could be regulated by feeding.

Mr. Moon — In my opinion the virtues of the lactometer are approx-
imate. In dry seasons the lactometer shows more water.

Mr. S. A. Farrington — I am sorry to hear a man of Mr. Fish's experi-
ence, express a lack of confidence in the lactometer. I admit that
circumstances will vary the density : but the variation is very slight.
If one man's milk varies from the standard, his neighbor's will also
vary the same. In order to detect milk that has been both skimmed
and watered, we take a jar of pure milk and let the cream rise. Then
we take the suspected milk and let the cream rise. We then skim both
of them, and test with the lactometer, and it will tell the per cent, of
water added.

Mr. Butler, of Herkimer — I know a man who watered his milk and
was detected by the lactometer, and punished for his dishonesty. And
yet, the next day he watered his milk, took it to the factory, and was
asked, " Why didn't you always bring such good milk ?" [Laughter.]
I think this shows that the lactometer is not a sure test.

Mr. Schermerhorn — The manufacturers must know something about
their business, and should not depend wholly upon the lactometer for
inlormation concerning cheese making.

H. C. Greene — I think the mistakes that have risen with reference
to the lactometer, are due to the ignorance of lactorymen.

Mr. Curtis — There is one source of poor] milk not yet mentioned,
and that is poor, half fed cattle.

91

Mr. S. A. Farriiigton — I take the broad ground that no man has a
right to be in a factory if he does not understand all of his business,
[x^pplause.]

Mr. Arnold — I wa& subpcenaed as an expert in a case tried in New
Jersey. A man had been sued for watering his milk, when it appeared
on evidence that the reason why his milk Avas less dense than that of
his neighbors, was because he lived nearest the factory, and had deliv-
ered his warm milk. Again, I know of cows that run in swamps
giving thin milk. The fact is that factorymen must use some judg-
ment in using the lactometer.

Isaac Burrell, of St. Louis — ^Allow me to add my testimony to the
efficacy of the lactometer. I have no doubt that in factories any
maker of common sense can detect watered milk with the lactometer.
I find that a far more simple test is to take a drop of milk upon my
•thumb nail. If there is one particle of water in it, the drop will roll
off my thumb, otherwise it will not.

THURSDAY MORNING.

The convention came to order at ten o'clock, with Vice-President
Curtis in the chair. The first business in order was the report of the
committee to consider the New York Butter and Cheese Board of
Trade matter, through the chairman. Dr. L. L. Wight. The report
was as follows :

" The committee to whom this convention referred the subject of the
New York Butter and Cheese Exchange, respectfully report that, in
the time at our disposal to investigate the matter,, a conference was
held witli the members of the said Butter and Cheese Exchange; and
after as thorough an investigation as was possible under the circum-
stances, we conclude that the establishment of such a board in New
York city must be of advantage to dairymen throughout the country,
on the general principle, (which we fully indorse,) that all Boards of
Trade and conventions held in the interests of any industry, serve to
enlighten communities, and thereby facilitate transactions between the
producer and consumer. And we, therefore, recommend that this con-
vention recognize the new organization, and urge all the co-operation
on the part of members of this body that they can consistently give.

L. L. WIGHT,
D. H. BURRELL,
H. FARRINGTON."

The report was accepted and adopted.

T. D. Curtis, chairman of the committee on nominations, reported
the following officers for the ensuing year:

President — Hon. Horatio Seymour, of Oneida.

Vice-Presidents — X. A. Willard, of Herkimer; T. D. Curtis, of
Onondaga, New York ; 0. S. Bliss, of Vermont ; John G. Cohoe, of Chau-
tauqua, S.A.Farrington, of Cattaraugus, New York; David W. Lewis, M.
Folsom, of New "i!ork city; C. E. Chadwick, of Canada; Alex. McAd-
ams, of Montgomery, New York; S. Favil, of Wisconsin ; Charles
C. House, of Lewis, G, B. Weeks, of Onondaga, Wm. Blanding, of
Broome, L. R. Townsend, of Franklin, David Hamlin, of Jefferson,
Gen. B. F. Bruce, of Madison, L. R. Smith, of Erie, New York; Har-
vey Farrington, of Canada ; J. Lewis, of Cattaraugus, Dr. G. F. Cole,

92

of St. Lawrence, E. S. Mnnson, of Delaware, New York ; J. M. Wal-
den, of Minnesota; Dr. L. L. Wight, of Oneida, New York; John T.
Ellsworth, of Barry, Massachusetts ; Wm. A. Johnson, of Erie, New
York ; S. Straight, of Ohio ; A. B. Lament, of Tompkins, New York ;
Cheater Hazen, of Wisconsin ; Edward Norton, of Farmingham,
Mass. ; David H. Burrell, of Herkimer, New York.

Secretary — L. B. Arnold, Rochester, N. Y.

Treasurer — Hon. Harris Lewis, of Frankfort, N. Y.

Committee — T. D. Curtis, Syracuse, N. Y. ; H. C. Green, of Penn-
sylvania ; 0. S. Bliss, of Vermont ; W. W. Fitch, of Oneida ; H. H.
Brayton, of Herkimer.

When the names of Hon. Horatio Seymour, Hon. Harris Lewis and
Mr. L. B. Arnold were read, they were applauded.

The report of the committee was accepted and adopted.

Mr. J. V. H. Scoville wished to introduce the following amendment
to the articles of agreement of the association :

" The secretary is hereby empowered to appoint an assistant secretary,
to assist during the sittings of the convention, and discharge such
other duties as may be assigned to him; and, in case of the absence or
inability of the secretary to act, to temporarily discharge the duties of
that office ; it being distinctly understood that no compensation is
attached thereto."

Mr. Harris Lewis moved that the matter be referred to Messrs.
Scoville and Wight of Oneida, and Mr. Moon of Herkimer. Car-
ried.

Mr. J. V. H. Scoville, chairman of the committee on the Centennial
Exhibition, reported progress.

On motion, the committee was continued for another year.

The following paper on " creameries," was read by W. L. Hunt, of
Eome.

A degree of embarrassment may well be felt by me when I reflect
how severely those gentlemen who have touched upon the subject of
making butter and cheese from the same milk, have been criticised by
this association. With all due deference and respect to this body, the
following paper is submitted, with the wish that it may be useful to some
dairymen :

This contains the results of experiments, the actual figures of which
I am very sorry I am not able to lay before the association. I did not
expect to see an interest, hostile though it be, which I find, or I should
have given a more definite basis to this part of the paper. I am giving
the results of observation and experience, not of experiments, which,
however, I did not neglect to make, but did neglect to save, not think-
ing there would be such a dearth of definite facts on this subject.

How to make our farms yield the most produce and profit, has oc-
cupied, and will, for obvious reasons, continue to occupy, in the fu-
ture, a large share of the attention, not more of intelligent farmers,
than of patriotic statesmen and agricultural writers. Varro, an
ancient Roman, says "nature has shown two paths by which a knowl-
edge of farming may be gained — experience and imitation."

This is as true, to-day, as it was 1,900 years ago, and, judging by
the experience of a few pioneers and experiments of the past and
present, the average tiller of the soil does not attain perfection in his
system of agriculture, and consequently cannot reach that hight of

93

pecuniary prosperity of which he is caj)able. To attempt to describe
the most fortunate manner of raising stock for the sliambles, grain
for distant markets, or grass for home consumption, would be to en-
croach too much upon your patience, not less than upon my own
ability ; the proper manner and management of which must depend,
in a large measure, upon the quality of soil, and nearness to market.
But it is thought an effort may be made to show that by the present
popular management of our dairies and factories, we do not receive as
much profit from the milk as it might be induced to yield if treated
in a different manner, when it is to be manufactured into a condensed
food. Milk appears to be the only natural food, which contains in it-
self all the constituents necessary to the proper supply of all the tissues
of the human body; and, therefore, capable of sutaining life for an
indefinite period of time. It necessarily follows that it should be
composed of a large number of constituent elements. We find, while
it contains numerous proximate principles, including water, its chief
value as a nutritive agent and for commerce, depends on the quantity
of casein, butter and sugar mechanically and chemically held in the
lacteal fluid. By quantitative analysis of one hundred pounds of
milk, it is found to contain 4.4 of casein, 3.1 of butter, and 4.? parts
of sugar. In the manufacture of cheese, a portion of butter is lost in
various ways, apparently more being wasted when the night milk is
retained in the vat until morning, and mixed with the morning mess,
than there is when the milk is manufactured into cheese immediately
on its reception at the factory, and before the butter globules, which
are only mechanically entangled in the fluid, have had time to rise to
the surface by their inferior specific gravity, and become attached to
each other, and somewhat dry. It is permitted to escape with the
whey, by neglecting to agitate the surface of the milk while it is on
the point of being coagulated by the rennet, by too much, or too long-
continued agitation, and by improperly stirring the curd while it is
cooking ; and in various ways there is considerable loss, even under
the most perfect caution and judicious manipulation of the milk and
curd. This is proved by the fact that when the vat, in the process of
cooking the curd, is allowed to remain at rest for a moment, more or
less oil is found upon its surface, and tiie quantity is very much in-
creased whenever the milk becomes slightly turned, or acidity devel-
oped in they whey. Early in spring, or late in the fall, the immediate
waste from imperfect coagulation accumulates upon the surface of the
vat, and becomes quite a source of annoyance to the tidy manufac-
turer. And I am quite sure, even the most careless observer has no-
ticed the large quantities of cream which accumulate upon the whey,
in the whey vat, at all seasons of the year, favorable to its separation
from the whey. The loss, I am confident, is at all times greater than
most dairymen are aware of. These facts are noticed by every atten-
tive observer, and they have been repeated only to be remembered by
all. The first step towards the true solution of a problem, is to ascer-
tain where the difficulty lies : but if any one should inquire if some
plan to prevent all loss during the handling of a curd, had been found
successful, the answer would be in the negative. Still the waste may
be rendered very much less, and in an age like the present, in which
there is such an imperative demand for moncA^ for the pocket of the
farmer, with which he must pay for his land, educate his children,
and raise himself higher in society, the most trivial loss may, and

94

should be carefully looked after, and no apologies need be offered in
attempting to show that more money will return from a given quan-
tity of milk by removing part of the cream, and manufacturing both
butter and cheese from the same milk, than by any other method with
which we are acquainted, (except the manufiicture of condensed milk,)
while the cheese do not lose near as much in value, quality, and rich-
ness, as is commonly supposed, which fact has led us to think a sav-
ing is really effected, when the cream on the night milk is removed for
butter. One-half of the whole milk is usually delivered in the eve-
ning, and being placed in our milk vats, will, under ordinary favorable
circumstances yield, as an average amount for the whole season, 2|
pounds of butter from each hundred of milk, by being set for the
cream from 9 o'clock in the evening until four or five o'clock the fol-
lowing morning, the milk being in the meantime perfectly at rest,
and every facility afforded the cream to rise. We will assume this to
be the only mess from which cream will be taken, and we have now
from the night mess removed 80 pounds of butter and replaced the
buttermilk, tlie whole amount to be manufactured into cheese, with
the moi-ning milk on its arrival at the creamery. We have removed
from 8,000 pounds, 80 pounds of butter, which leaves the fluid still
rich enough to make a pound of cheese from ten and one-half pounds
of milk, (a long season requiring less, and a short season more milk,)
or 686 pounds of cheese. Our butter and cheese Avill bring clear of
expense of making, 304 for the former, and 104 per pound for the
latter, or a total of 192.60, as a nett result from the milk. The same
quantity of milk manufactured into cheese exclusively, will give a net
sum from our sales of 180.00, a balance in favor of butter and cheese
against cheese alone, of $12.60 per day, or nearly 1400 per month.
This ray experience assures me is not a fancy sketch, but is rather
under than over-drawn. This yield of butter from the night milk, is
a fair average for six months, May and June yielding more, and July
and August may give less than this. The removal of this quantity of
butter does not materially change the quantity, or the quality of the
subsequent product, of the milk. 1[ the cheese are well made, the
purchaser will be usually unable to detect any very material difference
m the quality; I can only account for this by assuming that Ave have
saved from the milk a large share of the waste by ordinary handling,
and partly by a lack of nicety of discrimination on the part of the pro-
fessional cheese buyer. It is in most creameries a question whether
the buttermilk should be returned to the vat or thrown away. This
should depend on its sweetness and flavor, which is usually good in
spring and fall, but in hot weather wiU require the utmost skill and
care on the part of all who handle the milk to preserve it good. As a
rule, it should be returned to the vat, for manufacture into cheese,
not alone, but with the remainder of the milk. It is economy to do
so. It contains the same amount of nitrogen as new milk. It does
make a larger quantity of curd, but does not improve its quality.
Each butter globule has in a natural state a coat of albumen, as
claimed by some, of casein by others, which is beaten off in the pro-
cess of churning. If it is the latter, we may have as much curd minus
the butter, of which some always remains, as from new milk. It prob-
ably has the value of skim milk. It is profitable to use it. and should
be divided among the vats as evenly as may be convenient. When a
large quantity is placed in a vat, containing sweet milk, the curd is

95

foiuid to be nnnsually tender, and with the more than usual waste of
curd. When, on the contrary, but a small quantity is placed in each
vat, )rom which the cream has been removed, the whey is usually clear
and free from particles of curd. In order to achieve the best results,
a fair share of energy and intelligence is required. How the milk
should be set for the cream to rise, is a very important matter, and
will be most carefully looked after in a well conducted creamery,
when, as is usually the case, it is desired to get the greatest amount of
cream in the shortest time. The patrons should be taught to bring
their milk early in the evening, and it certainly is for their interest to
do so. The Chenango pan, or something similar, is more economical
of time in raising cream, more labor-saving, and far preferable to pails,
or indeed to any utensil for simply raising cream. Our cheese vats
make an excellent substitute, howevw, and will answer every purpose
when it is wished to skim the night mess only. From twelve to
twenty hundred may be placed in a vat, and even more, liable only to
the objections urged against pails, that the milk is too deep for much
cream to reach the surface, and would in this case occupy too much
time in cooling. If too shallow, we shall be annoyed in removing all
of the cream. On its reception at the factory, it should be placed im-
mediately in the vats, and cooled to a safe temperature as soon as pos-
sible, aftet which it must remain perfectly at rest in order to achieve
the best result. The most favorable temperature is from ()2 to 68 de-
grees. While the ventilation should be free and thorough, no currents
of air should be permitted to ripple the milk, nor should odors be
wafted, gently or otherwise, through the building. The milk should
be left ac rest as early as possil)le in the evening, and remain undis-
turbed as lung as can be in the morning. The cream is usually thin
in is consistence, and always requires an imperforated skimmer in its
removal. An ordinary curd scoop, made long and wide, with high
sides, and having the handle inverted in .the back at an angle which
which wjU keep the operator's hand out of the milk, makes a good
skimmer. The operation sliould be conducted in a manner which
tends to leave the vat as undisturbed as possible. Some persons. will
get from ten to twenty pounds more butter from the same vat, than
others can, by reason of the care and skill shown in the act. Cream
should not be allowed from carelessness or laziness to spill from the
skimmer into the vat, and the surface of the milk should remain
without a ripple until the operation is over. When the buttermilk is
returned to the vat, the churn should be started very early in the
morning, and the last churning finished by the time the morning
mess is all received, so that the vac need not be delayed by the churn.
It is said that better butter, and especially better keeping butter can
be produced from cream which has become slightly acid. There seems
to be good reason for tliis opinion. An acid state of the cream
serves to partially digest the caseous envelope of the oil globule, ren-
dering it lender and easily broken. We accordingly find butter is ob-
tained quicker from sour cream, and the yield will also be greater
from cream, when acid, if the churning of the sweet cream is not suf-
ficiently prolonged by churning, at a low temperature, so as to allow
all of the oil to become entirely detached from its tough protein envelop,
before the butter accumulates in lumps by means of its adhesive
properties. The effect Avhich lactic acid could have on the oil would
be more cheaply gained by allowing the butter to stand for twenty-

P6

four hours after salting, before the final working, as is the usual cus-
tom, when the expelled buttermilk will be found sour. It is found
that butter meets a readier sale when colored than uncolored, and it is
of the utmost importance that the different churnings should be of
the shade of color chosen by the buyer and consumer. With this end
in view, the anattoine should be prepared of uniform strength
throughout the season, and it will be found accurate and convenient
to have a graduated glass beaker, for measuring out the fluid, and use
a certain definite quantity for every hundred or fraction of one hundred
pounds of cream. The temperature of cream should be brought, by
the liberal use of ice, during the greater part of the season, as low as
forty-eight degrees Fahrenheit, as it is found that more and better
butter is gained by as low a temperature as this than by a higher one.
The mass will increase in heat by the friction consequent on the mo-
tion of the cream against the side of the churn, several degrees. At
this temperature one hour will be occupied in the process of churning,
and the motion will even then need to be very rapid.

The churn should be large, that the cream may have room to swell
and some space left, and the nearer air-tight the better. The motive
power may be either water or steam ; any one who has used the latter
for churning, will be convinced of its superiority to the former. There
should be plenty of power; an engine of three-horse power would be
sufficient for most factories. W^hen the grains of butter first begin to
show, the motion should be gradually reduced until the churn is com-
pletely stopped, at which time the butter should be in lumps of the
size of an egg. If the operation is conducted too long, the butter be-
comes mashed and salvy, and the delicate grain is gone entirely past
recovery. Butter is made good or bad in the churn. It may be
spoiled in working, while poor butter cannot be made good by subse-
quent management. The butter is usually salted when taken from
the churn, at three-fourths of an ounce to the pound. In working the
butter to remove the buttermilk, a square strip of new soft cheese ban-
daging should always be used to soak up the milk. It saves manipu-
lation of the butter to some extent, efiects a saving of time, and leaves
the article drier and in a better state for shipment, and for retaining
its good qualities.

One great point is to remove all of the milk, and nothing for this
purpose is equal to a porous cloth. It should be frequently rinsed,
first in hot water to clear out the pores, and then in cold water, to
keep the cloth as cool as possible. The art of butter-making is almost
like cheese-making, in that it is a trade by itself, and should be learned
as such.

I have not intended to give a complete description of the best mode
of making the best kind of butter, but I have intended to call your at-
tention to a few points which my experience leads me to think are
very essential ones, and which may not be sufficiently prominent in a
more elaborate essay.

If I have succeeded in drawing attention to the combined manufac-
ture of cheese and butter, in the factories of this country, my object
in coming before this honorable association will be happily accom-
plished.

While I do not think it may be advantageous for every factory to
make butter, a very large number can and will find it to their interest
to do so, especially as increased attention is drawn to the subject.

97

Allow me to thank you, in conclusion, for your patience, and to
hope I have been partially successful in paying a debt, for knowledge
received in the past, from the American Dairymen's Association.

Mr. Bliss rose to commend the paper Just read. He was pleased to
^ee experiences take the place of theory advanced by too many readers.

Mr. Greene said he did not find that he made more out of milk that
had just reached the factory, than from milk that had stood twelve
liours. Sweet cream produces butter in less time than sour, also giv-
ing it a finer grain and more delicate flavor. The sour cream butter
is more firm, however.

Mr. Curtis Avas glad to see the association attend more to butter-
making, as less was known about this than cheese making. Mr. Curtis
then called upon Hon. John Shattuck, of jSTorwich, a fellow butter-
maker, to give his experience.

This gentleman dissented from the reader in suggesting annatto to
color butter. The great trouble in its use is that people do not use it
Jur^iciously. He claimed that there were certain persons as well as
certain farms that were not adapted to butter-making. He did not
wish to advocate the keeping of any particular breed of cows, but
advised a liberal sprinkling of Alderneys. He thought that good grass
Avas the best of all feed for cattle. He was opposed to separating
cream from cheese. He had never seen any cheese too good for him
to eat or to sell. If you allow slight skimming, patrons will be too
greedy and skim too much. Butter-making should have'strict atten-
tion. Washing sore udders Avith milk was the worst thing that
could be done. Warm Avater and clean grease were the most effective
remedies. Butter should not be Avorked too much, as it breaks the
grain. His theory was that sweet cream butter did not keep so Avell as
sour cream. He took the cream off as soon as the milk began to
thicken at the bottom of the pan. If you wait until the Avhey comes
around the edges of the pan, curd will arise and mix with the cream
and you cannot get it out. The least you can handle butter and get
the milk out, the better. We wash our butter in Avater in small quan-
tities. We salt Avith a pound of salt to twenty pounds of butter'. I
used to use Ashton salt, bat now use Onondaga. I think the latter
has a little sharper flavor. The only objection we ever had to it Avas
that there Avas too much lime in it. The temperature at churning
should be about 65'^. When the butter begins to curdle thickly around
the dasher, stop the power, and finish by hand. A churning should
take half an hour's time. The cream should not stand too long after
it is removed from the pans. Plaster soAA^edin pastures may give a
l)etter yield for a fcAv years, but Avhen used steadily it is not much of
a benefit. The speaker never plowed his pasture Avhen it ran out. He
did not pack butter for some time after working it. He used the old
fashioned dasher churn. The dasher should make forty strokes a
minute. Mr. tSliatluek-s statements were principally in answer to
'luestions asked him.

Mr. Greene offered the folloAA'ing resolution :

Resolved, That the convention tender its thanks to the National
Dairymen's Board of Trade, and the Citi^^ens of Utica, for the exceed-
ingly elegant entertainment provided for us at Bagg's Hotel, and that
we interpret it as an evidence of respect for, and appreciation of, the
object and efficiency of our labors.

7

98

Specimens of sugar made from milk, specimens of artificial butter,
and specimens of solid milk and sugar, in the form of a cake, were
passed around and examined.

The committee on the amendment to the article of agreement,
reported in favor of the same.

The following paper upon " Feeding at a Mark," was then read by

EDWARD J. WICKSO^S" OF THE UTICA HERALD.

About thirty-five years ago a German chemist, Justus Von Liebig,
collected the results obtained by a score of eager chemical analysis,
viewed them separately and collectively, and, from the evidence thus
afforded, educed a theory of tlie manner in Avhich the animal organism
applies the food, which is furnished it, for the purposes of mainten-
ance, growth and reproduction. This theory brought to its originator
great honor. It has received, since his proclamation of it, alternate
approval and rejection. It has been the base ground upon which later
treatises of animal chemistry have raised their v/onderful superstruc-
tures. There were a number of years in which it seemed a fashion to
denounce Liebig and ridicule his conclusions. But these have passed
away, and when, at last, the time came for the old scientific hero to
undergo a final process of sublimation, he could look about him and
behold the chemists and physiologists of 1873 treading and exploring
the paths which he marked out thirty-five years before. It was Liebig's
thought that certain vegetable substances performed special duties in
building up the animal structure. "Working as he did at the begin-
ning, and with the full flush of an original idea lending, perhaps, an
undue warmth to his assertions — working at the beginning, and with
the tendency to err which must always be present to one who discovers
an unknown land, it is surprising that his work is so free from blem-
ishes, and tliat his positions embraced so few that later research has
proved untenable. In inviting your attention to a few facts concerning
animal chemistry, I have thought it not inappropriate to speak of him
from whom the science takes its origin. During the last year he has
died, full of years and of honors, and has been buried with ceremonies
befitting his high accomplishments and valuable public services.

THEORY AND PRACTICE.

Experience, the true scientific teacher, has taught agi'iculturists that
some substances are better fitted than others to serve the purposes and
answer the demands of the animal economy. Carefully, eagerly watch-
ing the results obtained by the use of certain methods and the employ-
ment of certain materials, he has learned to a,dopt the better and reject
the v/orse. This process is essentially scientific, and may become
wholly scientific, so soon as the practitioner learns the reasons for his
successful procedure. A perfect knowledge of these reasons is not yet
attainable, but there are many finger posts along the way which point
out the direction in which perfect understanding lies. It is my task
to present for your consideration a few of these indications. I do
not claim the ability to add an item to your course of procedure. I
only aim to sketch the natural methods, in ministering to which your
success has been attained. By varying and compounding the nutri-
ment which you have placed before your animal, you have aff'orded the
animal the opportunity to exercise its peculiar ability for your profit.

"With diverse ends in view you have learned to vary your methods te
attain those ends. The marksman varies his charge according to the
character of the ganie he wishes to bring to his feet; the stock-grower
varies his vegetable ammunition according to the physical character he
wislies to impart to his amimal. It is because the animal economy
within certain limits, admits of a choice of ultimate purposes, to the
attainment of Avhich its capabilities may be directed, that I have cred-
ited the stock-grower with " feeding at a mark.'-

WHY WE FEED AT A MARK.

Sharpshooting in the matter of agriculture is now, as never before,
demanded of the man whose skill and talents are enlisted in this branch
of industry. A constantly increasing population calls for a fullness o
production. It is to minister to this demand, that the necessities o
the day call upon the farmer to make such skillful use of his ra,w
material as shall secure the largest and best results in the finished
product. Tliis condition of affairs, which Vv^ill be recognized by all
farmers, and impressed upon them by the increased cost of living,
which they, with other classes of citizens, endure, declares that from
the animal, as from the field, the returns must be the greatest possi-
ble. As special feeding has been proved, by experience, to be instru-
mental in reaching profitable results, it tiius demonstrates its claim to
the study and understanding of the producer. But there is another
and stronger claim than duty for the enlistment of skill and scientific
research into the conditions and capabilities of the animal economy.
It is profitable. The animal, taking the raw material in its food, fixes
upon it the trade mark of its peculiar manufacture and places in the
owner's hand a profit above the cost and toil of its care and mainten-
ance. A man who stores up two pounds of chicken and three pounds
of turkey by a AVeek's special feeding of the birds, feeds at a mark, by
gaining the price which those extra pounds command, and creates a
value by turning to his uses the vital abilities which nature has placed
under his direction. Again, by passing the products of the field
througli the workshop of tlie animal, the producer gains a concentra-
ted product, one which ties up great value in little space, and thus he
frees liimself, to a degree, from the vexing demands for transportation
expenses. The perplexing question which has been forced upon the
consideration ot the country by the unfortunate condition in which
our western agriculturists find themselves placed, indicates to us that
he who concentrates his value is the one who alone can obtain fair
return for his labor, until competition and fair management cheapen
the expense of movement. Clonccrning the advantage of a concentra-
ted product, a recent writer has said: "Cotton was king only because
it could bear transportation, its value being great in proportion to its
bulk. Hay would wear the crown if, instead of one cent it were worth,
twenty cents a jiound. Transportation of cotton one hundred miles
by wagon (at W cents per ton per mile,) would cost only one-nine-
teenth of its value. Carriage a like distance would cost about half
the value of wheat, and more than the whole value of potatoes or hay.
At o cents per ton per mile by railroad, the entire value of potatoes
(at 54 cents,) would pay for transportation GOO miles ; of hay (at ^22
per ton) 733 miles; of wheat (at UM. a bushel) 1,377 miles; of
tobacco (8 cents a pound) 5,533 miles; of sugar (10 cents a pound)
G,GG(j miles, and of cotton (at J 9 cents a pound) l"-i,G69 miles."

100

Thus it appears that concentration of value enables the product to
stand the cost of movement. If to this list we add cheese, which in
1873 averaged in New York about 15 cents a pound, we have a product
which just less than old king cotton can bear transportation, for at
averaged railroad rates it can be moved nearly 10,000 miles l^efore its
value can be exhausted. By feeding at a mark in the transportation
of the cheaper and bulky products of the farm into the concentrated
form of cheese, we see that the advantage in the question of transpor-
tation is upon the side of the dairyman. But I hasten over these
introductory advantages, which doubtless you have anticipated me in
assigning, to consider the natural and scientific truths which make
special feeding possible, and upon which any plan of administering^
or any manner of food selected, must rely to achieve the results which
its advocates claim for it.

HOW WE FEED AT A MAEK,

It is conceded that in the economy of nature the function of the
herbiverous or gramniverous animal is to store up in its body food
for the sustenance of the carniverous animal. An indication of this
function appears in this extended apparatus with which the plant-
eating animal is furnished for the digestion of the disseminated nour-
ishment which the plant draws from the soil, and in the lesser appa-
ratus which prepares the carniverous animal for acting upon the
concentrated food which the flesh of the plant-eater affords him. We
see, then, that there are three stages, speaking generally, which the
life sustaining material from mother earth may occupy. From the
earth to the plant, from the plant to the plant eater, and from the
plant eater to the flesh eater — these three transpositions constitute the
series. Before Liebig and his co-laborers promulgated their theory of
food-changes, their prevailed a belief that nutrition was a mysterious
process, and that man was not only unable to explain the causes, but
was wholly incompetent to describe its methods, except as the act was
wholly done and the active and well-favored growth attained. The
half century of modern chemistry which preceded the publication of
Liebig's theory of nutrition, recorded the results of many careful analy-
ses of food material, but there was little thought of the uses to which
these results could be placed, when the mind, competent to arrange
them in a system, should appear. The almost superstitions reverence,
for a something which, it was thought, alone could arrange the combi-
nations which appear in the flesh of animals, seemed to close a heavy
door upon scientific progress in this direction. But the time came for
breaking down the barriers which imagination had raised,and the thought
seized uj)on men that the Creator intended to teach His power by per-
mitting an elevating understandin g of His methods, rather than by enforc-
mg a distant and depressing contemplation of a finished work. The pro-
gress which has been made in animal chemistry during the last twenty-
live years, although it has proved some of Liebig's minor inferences
unsound, has been, in the main, in the direction pointed out ; and no
single investigator since his day has contributed any nearly so valuable
onward push as the impetus which he gave to the science at its begin-
ning.

IMITATION OF "'NATUKAL PROCESS."

The success which chemists attained in building up outside of thg
body the complex substances which are found in tlie body, first led

101

the tliouglit that the so-called vital processes might be watched and the
steps of the mystic transformations demonstrated. Elements were
placed in contact upon the laboratory table, under conditions which
imitated vital conditions, and the elements sprang together in com-
pounds identical with those in the body. This was a great step toward
the exploration of the J^unknown. Successfnl in his attempt to imi-
tate nature, he made bold to inquire whether nature held any mysteri-
ous letters patent upon.^her processes. His examination and his con-
tinued success in artificially producing more and more complex sub-
stances, led to the thought that, though he might learn the reasons
for the changes in matter as it passed into the living structure, he
could point out the [methods ol the changes and advance or repress
them for his profit. Hence arose the theory of special feeding. Select-
ing such materials as his experiment declared fit for union or trans-
formation, he ordered the animal to do his work. Generally the ani-
mal obeyed the command, because it was strictly in harmony :.with
its nature and it could not do otherwise. Special feeding is then a
natural method of procedure, dependent upon natural laws, and suc-
ceeding or failing as it conforms to those laws or transgresses them.
AA'^ith all his wisdom the student of animal chemistry has reached
the conclusion that food substance, in passing from the palate to the
flesh, is not torn wholly asunder, as we may say, into the simple ele-
ments of which it is composed, but that two or more elements may
pass into the animal frame through digestive apparatus, with the bonds
which unite them unbroken. It was the old theory that all a man
could do was to blindly toss into the body organic material and trust
to the mystery of vital force to appropriate what it desired. It was
further believed that every substance, which went into the body, was
resolved into elements by this vital force, and that no compounds,
existing in the food, were able to stand against the disintegrating
machine in the animal. The idea was that digestion was a mill of the
gods and that it ground exceeding small. The view which is now
upheld by scientific men, is that the economy of nature orders that
where the animal finds a material ready-made for its use, it must take
it, and though it may be obliged to perform certain easy modifications,
it need not undo all the work which the plant has accomplished before
passing the nutriment to its service. The process of construction
which the animal employs, may be compared to the building of a house
with chiseled stone. Each block has been measured and cut in the
quarry, and when the derricks raise one to its place in the wall, it is
possible that the workman may be called upon to chip away a projecting
spot or he may have to fill a depression with cement, but, in the main,
the stone is ready for its place, and little labor is necessary for those
upon the scaffold. Such construction bears a certain analogy to that
which progresses in the animal. As the food emerges from the diges-
tion, and takes its way to the parts which for its reviving influence, it
may have lost a useless part, or it may have been furnished with one to
fill its lack, but still the great strength of combination is preserved.

^ THE STAIllCASE OF PKOGRESSIVE ORGAXIZATION^. f

In order to a consideration of this doctrine of " easy changes,'" as we
may call it, from the substance of the food to the bones, tissues and
fats of the animal, I must ask your attention to the plan in its con-

102

nection with the general law of natural changes which is now advocated
by scientific men. It must be remembered that the simple elementary-
substances which are found in the flesh are found also in the vegetable,.
and those in the yegetable are found in the soil. Although identical
elements are discovered in all branches of creation, distinct combina-
tions of these elements are found in each, and these distinct classes o-f
combinations rise one above another, increasing in complexity and
decreasing in durability. To express the idea in a diagram, 1 have
adopted a plan set forth by Prof. Le Conte, We may write the classes
of creation thus :

Animal.

Yegetable,

Mineral,

Elements.
'Now, it is impossible to rise from one to another of these classes
without passing through the intervening. The progress upward of
matter is constant and unexceptional. You cannot feed a plant with
elements until they have been drawn up and acted upon by chemical
force and combined in minerals. You cannot sustain animal life by
minerals unless they have been acted upon by vegetable force. In
each upward step there is a gain of force, and it is a gain which is
never wholly lost or wasted. Combination is the result of the peculiar
force of each class of matter, and it is a eomibination essential to the
progress. Two members of the element class, carbon and oxygen, are
drawn up by chemical force and combine in carbonic acid. Another
compound is drawn in, and we have carbon, oxygen and hydrogen^
which may take yegetable form in sugar. Sugar is raised from the
vegetable to the animal and may take the form of fat. Each change
proceeds with the material offered by the next lower class. The
accumulating combination, without breaking up entirely the bonds of
union which are formed in the stage below, is thus seen to be general!
throughovit nature. The union and growth is by the taking up matter
in compound and not in elementary form.

THE DOCTRINE OI" EESIDFES,

This retaining the bonds of union is in accordance with what is de-
nominated the " doctrine of residues ;" and as this theory of residues
is one upon which theory and practice of special feeding must rest, I
have thought it fitting to discuss it with such illustrations as seems
most appropriate. I need bi^t remind you in the beginning, that the
chemist selects the smallest conceivable quantity of simple elemen-
tary matter, and calls it an atom. We may have an atom of metallic
iron, because metallic iron is an element and not capable of analysis,,
hut we cannot have an atom of salt, chemically speaking, for salt is a
compound made of two simple elements. Instead of saying an atom
of salt, we say a molecule of salt, a molecule being composed of a
number of atoms, generally of different kinds of elements.

Applying this explanation of terms to the belief expressed that sub-
stances are used in the animal economy, without breaking all the
bonds of combination, we are led to conclude that the process of
forming the parts of the body is, by the coming together of molecules.
Groups of atoms, arranged in molecules, pass through the digestion of
the animal without coming apart, as we may say, and, perhaps, meet
other groups of atoms also kept well together, and these two families

103

or molecules, being introduced by the elements of water, or some other
agent, clasp hands and rush together to build up the tissues, the
bones and the products of the animal. Does it not appear that this
arrangement is one of infinite wisdom? There is no longer the use-
less expenditure of force employed in tearing combinations apart, as
the old theorists would have us believe, nor is there the loss which the
falling apart of atoms, if that were possible, would occasion. The
pent-up force which the plant has taken from the sunbeam and im-
prisoned in its vegetable fiber, is still pent-up force, carefully pre-
served to serve a purpose in the animal structure. One division of an
all-wise creation is enabled to build on at the point where a lower di-
vision has left off" building, and there is continual progress, a contin-
ual conservation of force, and never a complete re-building — because
nothing is built amiss. But let us examine a little more closely into
this doctrine of residues. Chemists have determined tliat the higher
and more complex forms of organic or living structure are composed
of aggregated molecules, or collected families of atoms, as we have
seen. There has been great progress made in weaving together these
molecules artificially m the laboratory. Let me give 3'ou an instance
of molecular change: If we take tlie leaves and bark of the .young wil-
low and bruise them, we obtain a peculiar bitter substance, which the
boy who has nibbled the bark from a willow twig will remember.
This bitter substance is called salicin, and when the willow is distilled
and the liquid concentrated, it takes the form of white, needle-like
crystals. If now we take some of these white needles and allow them
to absorb water, we find that it is salicin no longer. Tlie molecule of
salicin, we discover, really contained the germs of two less complex
molecules, which only needed the presence of the elements of water to
enable them to spring forth in full form. The result of the action
may be thus expressed :

Salicin, Water, Saligeuin, Grape Sugar. C,5 H,3 0, plus H^ 0=C,
Hg 0, plus C« H,., 0«.

From this it appears that although the bitter willow bark contained
the germs of mligenin and grape sugar, it needed something before it
could separate into these two substances. The necessary something
proved to be water. We say then, that the bitter willow bark con-
tained the residues of grajie sugar and saligeuin, that is, it contained
the greater parts of each. If we were to represent these two substan-
ces as molecules combined in the more complex molecule of salicin,
we would not write them as two complete circles with the edges touch-
ing, but rather as two incomplete circles locked together; as each one
needs a part of the elements of water before it can assume the fullness
of an independent molecule.

I have shown one of the simplest of the steps in wliich the chemist
has found himself able to imitate tlie works which nature performs,
because in the limits which I may claim to day, there will be little
more than space to point out the direction in which modern acliieve-
ment is speeding. As the molecule of the extract of willow bark has
been shown to coutain residues which pure water could force apart
into full and distinct substances, so more and more complex bodies
liave been made to disclose their secrets as soon as the agent appears
to fill their deficiencies, or to remove something which prevented a sep-
aration. The bonds which unite the more complex organic substances
resemble the bonds of western matrimony. The bound ones are ever

104

on the alert to avail themselves of new unions. They only consent to
break partnerships when more powerful affinities present themselves.
Sometimes they part to meet again. But the separation, unlike that in
divorce cases, is by whole families. The disrupture of a complex or-
ganic molecule is like a fire in a boarding-house — every boarder car-
ries out his own wife and children, and leaves the landlady to jump
out or burn up.

THE DOCTRINE APPLIED.

And now let us bring this idea of the movement of compound sub-
stances to bear upon the nutritive process of the animal. It is well
known that the vital force is able to transform for its use, many sub-
stances. This capability of the animal is not only a safeguard against
its starvation in case any single kind of food should fail, but it is also,
in part, the key to the possibility of special feeding. There is a wide
range from which to choose nourishment. Experience and theor}'
agree that all nutritive materials are not of the same nutritive value.
It is the theory of special feeding that the feeder may choose that
which requires the least change in the process of digestion and assim-
ilation. If we say, then, that the animal force can most easily take to
itself that which requires least change, and add to this tlie well estab-
lished belief that in making necessary changes there is no complete
tearing to pieces of the work of foregoing forces, we have a summary
of the reasons why feeding at a mark is possible.

Let me illustrate the ease with which the animal can transform the
nature of a food substance, and then examine the theory that claims
there may a direct assimilation without a change of form. The chem-
ist has succeeded in the artificial production of fatty matters from
starch or sugar. Both these substances contain carbon oxygen and
hydrogen, and the proportion of parts of each element in each com-
pound, varies but slightly. There is good reason for believing that
the animal changes the sugar which it may obtain from several food
sources, notably in the beef, into the fat which lies in soft layers be-
tween its muscles, or gathers about the kidneys. I have endeavored
to show upon the diagram the change which must occur in starch or
sugar that it may become fat. I represent outside the body, in a
manner which does not pretend to scientific accuracy, the elements
which compose the sugar which is found in beet-root and sugar-cane,
and inside the body the elements which compose the solid fat of the
animal. Thus

Outside the body. Inside the body.

i' "i i 1^ . j r j

1 LJ

L

Sugar. Oxygen. Fat.

It will appear that in passing to the fat of the body a great quantity
of oxygen is taken from the compound and made to serve otlier uses
in the animal economy, but the general characteristics of the com-
pound arc retained. The proof that sugar may serve this purpose in
the animal is established in practice, for food made up largely of starch
or sugar, will produce a fattened condition, and will sustain life by

105

virtue of the adaptability imparted by tlie vegetable force. The ser-
vice done by the vegetable cannot be dispensed with, for a diet of
charcoal and water, though holding the same simple substances as
sugar, would never prepare an animal for the market.

WITH EVE]Sr LESS CHA^STGE.

We see, then, that sugar needs but little repairing or rebuilding be-
fore it is ready to become the solid fat, and that it retains the shaping
which the vegetable placed upon it. But there are other substances
which seem even better fitted; make better joints, as the mechanic
would say, with the animal structure. The early students of animal
chemistry laid great stress upon this transformation of sugar into fat,
which I have described, because they regarded it as the only source
whence the animal could draw its supply of oily matter. More recent
examinations have shown that the vegetable stores oils in seeds,
grains and fodder. This fact is too well known to need comment.
The oils of fat-making grains are believed to pass the digestion with
their smooth globules unbroken, and to take their way then directly
to the frame of the animal, for the fat there found is identical in com-
position with the oil in the food. This is the theory which is called
into account for the good results attained by feeding Indian corn, oil
cake, and other oily matter.

AN ARGUMENT BY ANALOGY.

It is natural to think that things which are so similar as. to make
distinction very difficult, may be considered identical. This is not a safe
rule by which to proceed in chemistry, or sometimes things of identi-
cal composition are Avidely different in form and characteristics. But
when we arrive at substances which agree in their composition, in
their form and appearance, and are analogous in the work they per-
form, the desire to link them together in identity, is almost irresisti-
ble. The close likeness between plant and animal has been carried so
far by careful observers, that we are brought to consider whether or
not tiia plant does not minister to all parts of the animal with ready-
made repairing material. If we rise one point higher than the sugar
and fat, which we have mentioned, and to the carl)on oxygen and hy-
drogen, which they contain, add one element more, namely, nitrogen, we
reach a group of substances which are nitrogenous. Upon these com-
plex combinations the animal depends for the repairing of its tissues,
for the strengthening of its muscles, and for imparting a framework
to its mlk. All this service is done by means of the blood, which
acts as a common carrier, moving the products of digestion to those
parts of the body which are ready to consume them at the least possible
expense, and ujjon a pro-rata basis, we doubt not. In the healthy an-
imal this common carrier, probably, is furnished with a plain way bill,
and moves the packages to their proper destinations with accuracy
and dispatch. The theory upon which " feeding at a mark " dejiends,
teaches that the substances which are loaded upon this ti-ain and
marked for the extremities or intermediate points, are indeed pack-
ages carefully tied together and unloaded with great facility to cheer
and renew the parts to which tliey are consigned by the central force.
It Avill be im})ossible to treat of these nitrogenous substances in their
complexity of combination, because I am speaking very generally to-
day, and more with an idea to lead my hearers to a study of the sub-

106

jects touched upon, than to furnish anything like a scientific explana-
tion of them. I may, however, instance three nitrogenous compounds
which alike exist in the animal and in the food, and point out the
little differences in their composition, which lead to the belief that the
force which the vegetable expended in their manufacture, is not wasted
by the animal, but is utilized in its process of reconstruction, and in
the manufacture of products, useful to man.

ALBUMEN, CASEIlSr AND FIBRIN.

If we slice potatoes, and mash them gently in cold water, to which
a little sulphuric acid has been added, a substance w^ill be dissolved
from the vegetable. If the water be then heated, a white substance will
be seen forming in the fluid, and settling upon the bottom of the jar. —
This is vegetable albumen. As the food enters the animal, mashed
by mastication, and encountering the acids of the stomach, the condi-
tions resembling our treatment of the potato, the \egetable albumen
Avould seem to be ready to perform its peculiar offices, and when we
find in the animal albumen closely resembling the substance in the
plant, we infer that is one of the cut stone, needing but little change
to take its place in the animal building.

[The speaker showed by colored diagrams the close resemblance in
composition of animal and vegetable albumen, and of the animal and
vegetable fibrin, animal and vegetable casein of which mention is made
afterward.]

It will be seen that the main features of the molecule of albumen are
well preserved, and the resemblance is so striking that it seems im-
probable that nature in'the animal should have thrown away all the
advantage which nature in the vegetable had secured, but rather that
with some slight chipping away, and with a little cement to fill a par-
tial depression, the stone was ready for its place, and filled it. The
readiness shown in the case of albumen may be shown in another com-
pound, which exists both in plant and animal.

If peas, beans, and some other products of vegetable force, be crush-
ed and heated in water a thick scum forms upon the surface of the
water, as occurs when milk is heated. If the water be treated with a
little vinegar, coagulation takes place as with milk. If a little sugar
be added, and the mixture be set aside for a time it becomes sour and
curdy, emits an offensive smell, and is attended with the formation of
lactic acid. The close resemblance to the behavior of milk in its vari-
ous treatments is noticeable. We have gained from the. beans vegeta-
ble casein, and by adding sugar, we attained an action like that in
milk, because we counterfeited the actual composition which the an-
imal imparts to its milk. If then these substances so closely resemble
each other in action, it is little wonder that they agree so closely in
composition. Here then we have another cut stone, needing a slight
treatment similar to that in the case of albumen, and preserving, like
albumen, the integrity of its general composition. Let us visit the
vegetable quarry once more. If we take fine barley meal or oatmeal
and make it into a thin paste with water, and then allow it to stand un-
disturbed for a time, the paste will be seen to have separated into two
parts, one of whicli will be a solid, light colored mass at the bottom,
and l:he other a slightly colored li(iuid above it. The mass at the bot-
tom will be starch ; the liquid holds in solution a substance which we

107

wish to examine. If the liquid be drawn off and boiled, we shall secure a
threadlike material, which is vegetable fibrin in a nearly pure state.
Xow, if fresh blood be stirred with a twig and the matter which clings
to the twig be washed for a time in water, it will be found to be com-
l)osed of whitish threads which are •A\\mvA\ fibrin. Tiie outward re-
semblance of the fihrin obtained from the grain and from the blood is
very close and its chemical composition is not less so. The composi-
tion of animal and \Qg(ih\h\Q fibrin approach each other more closely
than that of the other compounds which we have compared. Like
them, it seems a substance made for a special purpose and that pur-
pose a place in the animal structure.

THE THEORY AS SUCH.

It is bv keeping in mind the " doctrine of residues," which teaches
that there may be transformation of vegetable substances with out
complete destruction, or tearing to pieces of them, and adding to this
the belief that certain matters may pass into the flesh and milk of the
animal with but little change, that we conclude that there are reasons
for believing that, within certain limits, feeding at a mark is possible.
As I have said, experience has proved the truth of this position. The
very fact that intelligent farmers are studyiiig the influence of certain
foods; and that they have attained results which lead tliem to advocate
special methods and materials, is proof that there is a tide in the affairs
of animals which taken at its flood leads on to profit. The ability of
the animal to transform food material, as in the case of the change
from sugar into fat, is not certainly proof that the transformation is
necessary, but that it may be one of the safeguards whicli the animal
economy possesses against starvation or reduction in case any certain
food fails. A man may light a fire by rubbing two sticks together, but
he will not resort to this exhausting process unless he has no easier
way of striking a light. To transform sugar into fat requires force,
more force than to take the oil from the vegetable, and stow it away as
oil in the body. It is for the saving offeree that the feeding of oily
grains or oil cake is resorted to, and the success which is reached
seems to point to the accuracy of the method. The idea of adaptation
is the one which calls for the fullest examination. It is not my inten-
tion to discuss it to-day, because it is a volume in itself, and I have
aimed only to point out the basis upon which adaptation rests and is
enabled to operate.

ARTIFICIAL FOOD.

Wlien the study of the adaptation of things Avhich grow is conclud-
ed, the thought presents itself, as to whether man can prepare artifici-
ally food-substance at a cheaper rate than vegetable force can produce
it, it seems likely that man can do this profitably, only so far as refuse
matter, which Avould otherwise be wasted anil lost, can be made to
serve a purpose. My time to-day, will only permit me to allude to ex-
])eriments which have been recently made Avith the solid substance
which remains after taking the extract of beef, as it is called, from the
flesh of the thousands of animals, which are shiughtcred for their hides
in the great cattle producing countries of South America. Eecent
reports from the Washington Agricultural Bureau describe experi-
ments which have been made with this refuse matter. It has heen
ground up into a powder, which is called '• flesh meal." This " flesh

108

meal " has been fed to cows with good results, it is said. Analysis of
the meal shows that it contains seventy-two parts of one hundred
which are capable of transformation into the nitrogenous substance of
the animal, and twelve parts of fat. As otherwise the material would
go to waste, it can doubtless be produced cheaply. I mention this oa-
ly as a matter of news, for experiment has not been thorough enough
to warrant a judgment upon it. It would be in keeping with the the-
ory of special feeding, for it would seem that the material of this
ground flesh, having once learned the way to the parts of the animal,
might pursue the course again ; as the practiced guide can trace a path
through a forest which, to the inexperienced rambler, might seem
trackless.

THE DUTY OF THE PRACTICAL MAK.

Thus I have endeavored to show how there may be " through
tickets," as we may say, from the food to the tissues, organs and pro-
ducts of the animal. As I remarked before, it was my purpose to
illustrate, not to recommend. The limits of this paper would
not permit me to proceed through the long list of fodders, grams and
prepared messes, and to note the probable action of each. Nor would
there arise any great benefit from such a comprehensive theoretical
showing. Science is knowing, not dreaming, although one fact- may
sometimes point to where a hundred lie concealed. What I have said
in a general way to day, rests upon the nearest approach to a demon-
stration now available. It is the duty of the farmer to write the
science of the tarm, and he does write the best of it. An experiment
which some farmer makes is told at the farmers' club, the reporter fixes
it in the types, the newspaper carries it to the agricultural chemist,
and upon the laboratory table that little farm experiment is spread
out like a map of an unknowu land. Its bearings are carefully taken,
and the next edition of a scientific agriculture contains a theory built
upon the results which that farmer attained in his field, his orchard or
his stall. So, my friends, it lies with you to demonstrate the full truth
of what I have said to-day. The greater part of it rests upon records
of such experini'^nts as that, the history, of which I have traced, but
there are many things still unknown in the animal economy, and the
behavior and the condition of animals under certain conditions of food
and care, it is your duty to those who will till these acres after you, to
study and recor results. Gentlemen, the science of the farm must go
forward. No other branch of industry numbers so many intelligent,
thinking experimenters.

WHY AND HOW.

Sometimes we are told that there are mysteries in these life process-
es which we shall never fully understand until we rise above them.
So indeed there may be. " The wind bloweth where it listeth and thou
hearest the sound thereof, but can'st not tell whence it cometh or
whither it goeth." But our hilltops are capped with signal stations.
Machines are flung out which record the velocity and direction of the
gale. Great canvas wings are spread upon the sea to catch and utilize
the force which the stranger carries with him on his journey. Great
wings are spread upon the land and the onward energy in the air
whirls them about and turns a shaft which pumps water to the arid
unlands, or turns the stones whence issue life sustaining powders. Be-

109

cause we do not know the wind we do not sit idly by and wait some
mystei'ions introduction to it. We seize upon its strength and study
ways by which it may be worked for us. Thus it should be with our
view and treatment of the animal force and life. It is a stranger like
the wind. Like it, it is powerful and attended by great accomplish-
ment. Not knowing exactly " why " should not detain us from ascer-
taining " how." " Why," is the question which the student of abstract
science may ask, and we honor his earnest, persistent inquiry. " How,"
is the question which the practical, industrious scientific man may
search into and it will yield him a profit for his labor.

Hon. Horatio Seymour addressed the convention, in substance, as
follows : At this tmie, there is an unusual interest felt about agricul-
ture, and it has led to many great movements among the farmers. I
do not mean to discuss these movements ; but there is one suggestion
which I wish to make. There is but one certain reliance that the far-
mer has ; that is, the skill of the farmer himself. This is our ninth
meeting. We have come from all parts of the country to discuss a
branch of agriculture of the most dignified extent. It is the first time
that you have come from so great a distance to this convention. It is
the first time you have drawn so largely upon all classes of men for
addresses. What does this show ? It shows the lead dairymen take
over other farmers. You have made your industry a feature of foreign
commerce. You have beaten Great Britain on her own grounds. No
In'anch of industry shows the union of producers and consumers so
closely.

The blackboard in our Board of Trade rooms is a wonderful institu-
tion. Upon it are recorded the prices of the world. In grain, cotton
and other products the question is, what are they worth at the market
where they are offered ? In selling cheese, however, it is asked what
is this Avorth in London ? The cable, freights and metropolitan prices
all regulate sales. The reason of this is that the dairymen are more
perfectly organized. There is no other instance where men are educa-
ted as you are educated. You are educated to the laws, habits and
wishes of other people. This intelligence is, therefore, more broad and
varied than of any other agriculturalist. I speak of this because it is
a just source of congratulation in the present and pride in tbe future,
and productive of hopes that tbe dairy interest will be the greatest in
the country. You must remember that'your power in legislation and in
your business must depend upon earnest co-operation and comparison
of views. By doing this, the dairymen have placed themselves above
their fellows. There is another good result that has flowed from this
association. It is the out springing of numerous other organizations
throughout the land. As ,we grow in strength and prosperity from
our intelligence our conventions Avill become larger. We may hear
something old each year, but we hear much that is new. I trust no
one will grow weary of this seeking for intelligence; for this body is
one of the arteries of our national progress.

The convention took a recess until 2 p. m.

THURSDAY AFTERNOON.

Upon re-assembling at 2 P. M.. Mr. J. V. H. Scoville offered the
following resolution:

110

Resolved — That when this convention adjourns, it adjourn to meet
at the city of Utica, on the second Tuesday of January, 1875, and con-
tinue in session three days.

Mr. Harris Lewis moved an amendment that the convention adjourn
to meet at tlie court-house in Herkimer. The present convention liad
been subject to some inconveniences, and some other phxce might be
better to hold the convention.

Mr. 0. S. Bliss invited the association to meet in A'^ermont next
year. The people in that State would make it pleasant for them.

Dr. L. Wight thought that there was no more advantageous place in
the United States for holding the convention than Utica.

Mr. Scoville thought that the hotel accommodations were too limited.

Mr. Curtis, of Onondaga, invited the convention to meet at Syra-
cuse, but still thought that Utica was the most central location, and
the best place of meeting.

Mr. Hawley of Onondaga, thought Utica Avas the best place.

Mr. Bliss and Mr. Lewis withdrew their amendments, and the reso-
lution of Mr. Scoville was carried unanimously.

The first remarks of the afternoon Avere by Mr. Blanding, of Broome.
He presented a few facts in refutation of Mr. Curtis' argument against
skim milk cheese. At his factory he merely skimmed the milk to
save wastage. He said that the extract on sicim milk cheese at the
central New York fair, from the Rural Neto- Yorker, to which Mr.
Curtis took exception, was true, and. that in his article Mr. Curtis
misrepresented the decision of experts that gave the second premium
to the cheese. He did not, ask any one to adopt his plans, but main-
tained that the skim milk cheese of his manulacture had value, rich-
ness and quality in it, and sold well in foreign markets.

After the introductory statements, Mr. Blanding spoke as follows t

CURING CHEESE.

Mr. President, and Memhers of the As^ociatioii .'-—I feel incompe-
tent to treat the subject beiore us, with that thorough practical
knowledge which its importance demands, but will throw out some
suggestions, as they appear from my standpoint, as a cheese man-
ufacturer.

I believe that much of oar cheese composed of good stock and well
made, is seriously injured in quality by improper and imperfect curing.
For the truthfulness of the statement, I would refer to the experience
of a large majority of our cheese manufacturers in all our dairy sec-
tions. The annoyance and perplexity to which they are subject, with
improperly constructed and enclosed curing rooms, especially for the
early and late make of cheese. The unsatisfactory condition of a
large part of this class of goods when ready for the market is a con-
stant source of anxiety to tb.e maker, who desires to excel in his or
her profession. Our climate is so uneven, with such constant rever-
sions of heat and cold, and cold and heat, it becomes difficult to se-
cure those favorable conditions by which curd is changed to cheese.
This difiiculty is referred to in a letter Ironi John Morrell & Co., of
Liverpool, to our former secretary, in which they say : " You require
to be most particular in the construction of your factory building, so
as to secure as far as possible an even temperature. In this respect,
Mr. Morrell, when in the United States, found great fault with many

Ill

of your factories ; and until these deficiencies are overcome, it will be
quite impossible to prevent some of the defects in your cheese, such
as porous and bad keeping qualities, Avhich are both caused in a
measure by unevenness of temperature. Many of our friends know
by experience, that these faults are a great drawback on goods for this
market ; and until your association remedies this, your factories will^
do well as a rule to sell, or ship their cheese as soon as ready, as the
depreciation in quality, loss of weight, and interest of the money, will
rarely be compensated for, except the advance in price is very great,"
From the judgment and conclusion of such men as we have quoted,
being sustained by our own experience, it seems that there is a large
loss to our dairymen by not providing rooms properly adapted for
curing their cheese. The manufacturer has much to contend with.
He receives milk, some in good, in different and bad condition, some-
times already impregnated with tlie seeds of putrefaction and decay,
and sometimes reeking with an abundance of animal odor ; and his
skill is taxed to its utmost capacity to manufacture a prime article of
goods. He succeeds in a fair measure, and places his cheese on the
shelves with a sigh of relief; but soon finds his work is not yet ac-
complished. He turns, and rubs, and greases his cheese, while the
cold winds, and rains, and perhaps snows, of early spring and winter
howl defiance at liim through every crack and crevice of the rickety
and barn-like curing-house. - 8ome manufacturers .seem to tiiink that
their care, anxiety and watchfulness ends when the cheese goes to the
press. After that, the cheese will almost take care of itself; but with
good curing rooms fitted with all the appliances of artificial heat and
thorough ventilation, much care must be exercised in the treatment of
the cheese on the shelves. We have witnessed in our own experience,
10 per cent, gain in quality in the same goods, by extra care of the
cheese while curing. Therefore, let this association, through its
officers and members, urge upon the stockholders and owners of fac-
tories, the importance of suitable curing rooms, with the necessary
heating and ventilating apparatus, so that in the curing as well as the
making, we may secure such goods as shall not only be sought after in
our own and European markets, but acknowledged by all as the best
in the world.

Mr. X. A. Willard substantiated the statements of Mr. Blanding
made in refutation of Mr. Curtis,

EXl'EKIMESTAL FAKM — ADDKESS OF J. V. H, SCOYILLE.

Two or three years since, a distinguished Vice-President of tliis or-
ganization, urged the importance of an experimental farm in connec-
tion with the dairy interests of this State; and subsequently a com-
mitttee was apiiomted from among this body, to more particuhirly
call the attention of tlie Legislature to tiic necessity of this measure,
and urge its adoption in practical form. The subject to which your
attention is invited, is the natural outgrowth of this action, and hence-
we enter upon its discussion without embarrassment, and under cir-
cumstances which at the present time may be regarded as auspicious.

That we find the facilities for agricultural education and improve-
ment in so disorganized a condition, so far as regards any practical ob- ■
servations and experiments under scientific direction, is a matter
greatly to be regretted, but is suscei)tible of speedy relief, if only we
move forward witii united purpose, keeping steadily in view the grand
old motto of "United we stand, divided we fall."

112

While the main subject to be considered is the necessity and import-
ance of an experimental farm, as a means to aid in the more thorough
practical education of the agriculturist ; yet it must be admitted that
there is scarcely to be found an experimental station, not more or less
connected with educational facilities, and consequently the two sub-
jects seem to be closely allied, and will be jointly considered.

I shall enter upon the consideration of the subject, by presenting as
briefly as possible, some items of interest, drawn from the practical
working of some of the leading agricultural schools and experimental
stations in Europe, of which there are more than three hundred.

I shall first introduce to your notice the celebrated school of Hohen-
heim, founded by one Schwertz, who nobly devoted his life to this un-
dertaking, towards the close of the year 1818. It is admitted to stand
at the head of the agricultural schools of Europe, after which nearly
all of the others are more or less modeled. The following extract
from the pen of Mr. Charles L. Flint, is a vivid illustration of its ap-
pearance in 1863 :

" Hohenheim is some seven or eight miles from Stuttgart, the capi-
tol of the kingdom of Wiirtemberg, the road lying through vineyards,
and orchards, and royal forests. Long before my arrival at heaclquar-
ters, it was easy to see that I was riding through the fields of the in-
stitute. The fruit trees Avere labeled and numbered, the fields and
the rotation upon them were indicated by stakes and cords, and every-
thing gave evidence of thrift and skill, and scientific ^nanagement.
What capital roads ! Nothing but a royal decree could have lined
them everywhere with cherry and apple, and pear trees, stretching
away as far as the eye could reach.

Islo fences mar the open landscape, either along the highway, or on
the division lines. But here we are at the very door, at this fountain
liead of agricultural science.

Forty-five years have now passed away, and from the weak seed then
planted, a strong, fruit-bearing tree has developed its wide extended
branches. From eight pupils of 1818, the number has increased to
150 in 1863 ; and from one great professor, the number has grown to
twelve. This institute has three distinct departments.

1st — The institute or school of agriculture for young gentlemen.

2d — The school of forestry.

3d — The school of practical farming for the sons of peasants.

The domain consists of about 835 acres, not including a vast forest
of over 5,000 acres, belonging to the government. Since the estab-
lishment of the institute, it has sent out no less than 2,944, including
those in the school of forestry, or 2,322 agriculturists, and 622 foresters,
not including several others in special courses. To speak of the regu-
lar curriculum of the college courses would lead too far, but I shall
briefly refer to the special courses, as indicative of the great service
such institutions may be to the great botly of the people. In 1844,
•was established the school for gardening. In 1850, a course for or-
chardists, of five weeks in the spring, but owing to the crowd of appli-
cants in this department, it has been found necessary to hold three
and four courses in a year.

A five week's course upon the technical management of meadows,
held in the spring of each year, has been regularly continued since
1855. Also since 1855 a course for shepherds during February, lasting
four weeks. Also courses upon silk culture, bee culture, and on the
nursery business.

113

Instruction in these several courses is given partly by the regular
professors of the institute, and partly by persons from abroad, who
make a specialty of certain pursuits, and go to Hohenheini for the
purpose, and the arrangement is such that the pupils are occupied the
whole of each day, partly in hearing lectures and partly in demonstra-
tions in the field, in the stalls, in the collections, or in excursions, and
partly in the solution of prescribed tasks. There is also a course for
master wheelrights and smiths, and in 1852 and 1853, after essential
changes in the laws regarding distilled liquors, the courses were given
upon the processes of distilling, attended by over sixty officers of the
government.

Concerning the herd of cattle at this station I find this mention.
" It was thought that no race of cattle, that did not unite the different
good qualities in the highest degree, would be adapted to the wants of
Hohenheini ; and no race prominent for one quality, as for instance,
for milk, the yoke, or beef, would answer the necessity. After a fair
trial of the Dutch, the English, the black and white Berneese, the
Schwitzer, the Monta Foner, the Allgiiuers, the Hungarians, the
Triesdorfer, the Ansbacher, the Haller and the Limburger, it was
found that the qualities most desired, were united in the greatest de-
gree of perfection in the Simenthalers. Since their first introduction
in 1825, they have constantly increased, and now the whole herd, ex-
cept one of 80 to 100 head, are either j^ure, or nearly pure Simentha-
lers. The Allgjiuers are admitted to be better for milk : but taking
color and all other characteristics into consideration, the Simenthalers
carried the day."

The average weight of these cattle is 1,200 pounds, and the yearly
average weight of milk per cow, is four times the live weight, or 4,810
pounds. It is a remarkable fact that none of the breeds named above
have any familiarity, as those common amongst us.

The sheep, however, are regarded as the most profitable branch of
the farm, of which about 1000 are kept.

The institution is not entirely self supporting. It receives ten thou-
sand florins a year from the government, which is equivalent to about
%4000.

The Agricultural school of Weihenstphen holds the first rank in
Bavaria. The estate lying in connection with it comprises about 650
acres. A noted feature of this institution are the annual excursions
of the students through- the kingdom, in company with one or two
professors, and each student is assigned to write upon some sjoecial
subject as seen in the excursion — such as hop culture, bee culture,
grass, grain, fruits, breeds of cattle and sheep, management of mea-
dows and pastures, &c. &c., which accounts written by the students
themselves are published in the reports of the Institution. The an-
nual excursion also includes an attendance upon the great meeting of
Bavarian formers atNuremburg, forthe discussion of Agricultural top-
ics. The brewery is regarded as the most profitable branch of the es-
tablishment, without wliich it would probably not ])e self supporting.
In 1863, it used 3,668 Bavarian scheifel, or about 11,000 bushels of
malt, and also in the distillery about 1,000 bushels of potatoes.

In this, as in nearly all the other Institutes in Europe, much of the
instruction is by practical demonstrations in the field, the barn, the

8

114

workshop, the nursery, and other parts connected with the establish-
ment.

In connection with nearly all the numerous experimental stations
in Germany, are conducted monthly journals of agriculture, which con-
tain accounts of the various experiments made, and analyses of com-
mercial fertilizers. At some stations, several hundred analyses, some-
times six or seven hundred, are annually made.

A manufacturer of commercial fertilizers is obliged to connect him-
self with one of these stations, where his product is frequently analyzed
and he is also compelled to print a warranty of the ingredients found
therein, and any customer purchasing thereof, can have it analyzed,
and if found wanting, can recover heavy damages.

The great majority of these stations are either aided or supported by
the government.

But time does not permit me to refer to other schools and experi-
mental stations in Germany, France or England, and but incidentally
to remark, that these stations seem to occupy an intermediate position,
and are adapted to the instruction of those already engaged in agri-
'Culture.

With this cursory review of the methods adopted in the govern-
ments of Europe to advance the cause of agriculture, I turn to a con-
sideration of our own wants and condition. ]S'early all that has been
done in this country in the aid of scientific agriculture, has been ac-
complished within the past twenty years, and I shall pass entirely over
the intervening period, to the act of Congress of 1862.

In 1862, was passed an act by the Congress of the United States, entitled
" An Act donating lands to the several States, which may provide colleges
for the benefit of Agriculture and the Mechanic arts "; giving to each
State according to its representation in Congress, to each representa-
tive 30,000 acres, and New York with its 33 representatives received as
its proportion 990,000 acres.

With the practical working of several of the agricultural colleges in
the different States which this liberal grant greatly aided, I am parti-
cularly pleased with the Massachusetts Agricultural college, and can
point you with pride to the noble example set for our emulation by
our sister State, Pennsylvania, with its three exijerimental farms.

But lest my words should convey a false impression, I would be un-
derstood as commending the action of Pennsylvania and Masschusetts
only, because more is being accomplished in the matter of field exper-
iments than in New York. As a scientific school, Cornell University
excels all the other so called Agricultural colleges, in proportion as its
endowment is more liberal and extensive. With this explanation I
continue the subject.

Listen for a moment to a few words uttered by him whose voice has
but recently been hushed in the silent embrace of death — the lamented
Agassiz. It was on the occasion of the graduation of the first class of
the Massachusetts Agricultural College. He says : " He had been very
solicitous in regard to the success of this experiment in agricultural
education, but after what he had seen, he was entirely satisfied. In-
finitely more had been done than could have been expected. The far-
mer might now be an educated man, the equal of the scholar and the
philosopher. There need no longer be aiiy difference between the ed-
ucation of the city and the country. He was sure all present would
agree with him in pronouncing the college a complete success." The

115

college farm consists of 3834- acres, and was purchased for ^29,'y?8,-
40-1,00, with a portion of the proceeds of the sale of the land scrip.
In 1S71, for the first time in his annual message, the Governor Jiighly
complimented the Institution, and the Legislature with remarkable
unanimity voted an appropriation of $50,000 for its immediate wants,
and $100,000 for the increase of its permanent fund. The State has
already in various grants, given the large sum of $430,000. My object
in calling attention to these grants is to show hereafter, that we are
justified in asking of our Legislature similar gratuities. One great
benefit which the peojile of Jiassachusetts enjoy, and which brings
them into nearer relations to the institution, is from the fact that the
State Board of Agriculture constitute its board of managers.

Of the Agricultural College of Pennsylvania, I propose to say little,
except that ladies are admitted on the same terms as gentlemen, and
an important feature which arrested .my attention, was the granting
of a prize to that female student, who excels in the duties of the kitch-
en and laundry. Like all other colleges which received the congres-
sional grant, military tactics form part of the instruction. The college
domain consists of about four hundred acres, one hundred of which is
set off and kept as a model farm and designated as the central experi-
mental farm, the otliers being in Chester and Indiana counties, of one
hundred and one hundred and twenty acres, respectively termed cen-
tral, eastern and western experimental farms. They are " directed by
law to be established as model, ftirms, equipped with the most conven-
ient kind of buildings and apparatus, and farmed in the best manner by
hired labor, to serve as examples in successful practical agriculture;
and also experimental farms, to test by experiments in sufficient ser-
ies, and to decide, by results, those numerous doubtful questions, as to
modes of culture, relative value of manures, kinds of seeds, succession
of crops, qualities of live stock, &c., which perplex the farmer and to
make known the results when sufficiently verified, to the public."

An elaborate system of experiments, extending through a series of
years, has been adopted by the board of trustees, under the scientific
direction of the Professor of Agriculture, which the superintendents of
each farm are instructed to carry out. The care with which this is
done is evidenced by the fact, that the superintendent of the eastern
farm was yearly changing his experimental plots, which being contrary
to programme, the result was single experiments determining nothing.
This the Professor of Agriculture remedied and reduced all to harmon-
ious action. On the central experimental farm, the system of soiling
is practiced. All the cattle of the farm are kept the entire year in en-
closures at the barn. Plots of ground have been Set apart for raising
forage, and a rotation of crops is pursued upon them, having reference
to this object. On this ftirm, contiguous to the college, is held each year
in July, a three days trial of mowers and reapers, and other agricultur-
al machines, which are largely attended, evincing much interest, and
during the evenings there are addresses by the faculty and others. It
may not be out of|place here to remark that all the students, below the
Junior year, arc required to labor ten hours a week upon the farm.
The system of mixed husbandry is the one adopted, with the intention
of illustrating every method of agriculture, and afford the student the
opportunity of becoming acquainted with all the details of farming.

One of the foremost objects in view in the selection of the western
farm in Indiana county, was to experiment upon drainage. Owing to

116

the want of funds little has, however, yet been accomplished. How
provident and beneficent is this measure, when we have so large an
area of land which needs draining, which is neglected by our farmers
from want of familiarity with the details and the cost of these improve-
ments. The superintendent of the eastern farm says : We have now
under trial nearly one hundred diversities in wheat, inclusive of the
programme plots. We are giving the horticultural department of the
farm more than usual attention. We are striving to renovate the large
pear orchard by cultivation, manuring, &c., making various experi-
ments in fertilizing, modes of trimming, &c., and in keeping a record
of the productiveness, quality of fruit, growth of trees, &c., of the
various varieties. The same remarks apply to our vineyard and other
fruits. We have given a fair share of our energies to the general
improvement of the farm and its appurtenances, and we flatter our-
selves that there is a marked improvement, not only in the fertility,
but in the general appearance of the farm. I herewith append the
results ot some experiments ; others were made in the dairying and
stock feeding departments, which for want of proper meterological
apparatus and other appliances, were not deemed sufliciently accurate
to publish.

From an examination of the reports of these experimental farms for
the last two years, it seems almost incredible that so much has been
accomplished with so limited means. The annual appropriation to
these farms by the Commonwealth is $6,000.

Professor Hamilton says : The appropriation of $3,000 per year to
each of these farms, in addition to all they can raise themselves, is, in
my opinion, sufficient to carry them on successfully. The trustees
report both to the Legislature of the State, to the Secretary of the
Interior of the United States, and the Pennsylvania Agricultural
Society.

It is with no ordinary feelings that I raise the outlook, and survey
the wants of agriculture in the State of New York, I have no desire
t.0 say anything derogatory concerning Cornell University, called into
existence as it was by the land grant of 1862, the apportionment to
this State being 990,000 acres, a territory in itself more than one-
third larger than the county of Oneida, in which we are to-day assem-
bled. With this magnificent endowment as a basis, we naturally
raised high expectations of immediate results which would flow from
this source ; but that it is possible to build up a successful Agricultural
Institute in connection with a great University, is a subject on which
the best minds of Europe are about equally divided.

That Cornell University is doing a vast educational work for the
youth of the Empire State no one will possibly deny ; that it is doing
for agriculture what it ought, very few can conscientiously affirm.
At such institutions the student upon entering finds the scientific
courses more attractive and under more cfiective organization, and
to this cause is attributed the small number of students in the agri-
cultural departments.

It is reported on good authority that the Illinois Industrial Univer-
aity, which received the benefit of the Congressional land grant, has
thirty students in the agricultural classes, out of 418 in attendance,
and that it has in reality no Professor of Agriculture, the work being
performed by piecemeal by the other professors.

117

Take for instance, the result as presented in the last annual cata-
logue of Cornell University, and we observe that agriculture claims
but 13 students, and the mechanic arts 24-, making a total of 39 stu-
dents out of 537 in the various departments, and these were the two
specially referred to in the Act of 1862.

In this connection I cannot avoid presenting the following brief
extract from the Live Stock Journal of Buffalo, evidently from the
pen of Mr. E. W. Stewart, in the number of July last. He says :
" During 1872, a gentleman holding the nominal position of Professor
of Agriculture, was accustomed to lecture to three students, and the
Professor of Agricultural Chemistry instructed only six or eight in
that branch. Here certainly is something that needs explanation.
The great endowment fund of the University furnishes instruction to
40 out of 525 students." It will be observed that this is the year
previous to which I have referred, there then being 16 students in agri-
culture, and 24 in mechanic arts.

If Ave attempt to account for this discrepancy by asuming that
parents will not send their children to enjoy the benefits of these
advantages, it presents a sad and mornful picture. Is there not some
truth to the objection that the income of the farm Avill not permit it ?
It has been boastfully proclaimed that the days wherein it was said,
that a farmer needed no education have passed away. Is there no
vestige of this sentiment still remaining? There is a period between
the ages of 16 and 22 that no farmer who can possibly afford the
means, should be indifferent to the education which his children,
receive, but let it be the very best. We may keep them at home and
work and delve upon the farm, and by this means give them a little
more money perchance, but an education is something which cannot
be squandered or wasted.

Within the period named is the golden opportunity, after which
follow the cares and perplexities of life.

Recently said a keen observer of the fluctuations in Wall street :
"Not more than ten per cent, of those engaged in business, but
what eventually pass through bankruptcy,"

Witness the numerous failures and frightful defalcations. Can we
wish them to be ours ? Rather let us educate our sons to be farmers
and mechanics, and our daughters to be farmers' wives.

The few facts which I have presented above, indicate the futility of
awaiting the slow process of natural education. Why cannot "the
scope of usefulness be enlarged by the adoption of that system so
successfully inaugurated at Glasnevin in Ireland ?

A correspondent in the Lojidon Field thus presents it : The system
of agricultural education and model farms now in operation in Ireland,
comprises more tlian 200 separate establishments witii tlie Agricultural
College at Glasnevin at their head. The entire cost to the nation of
the whole list, is stated as less than £6,000 a year, or about $30,000 in
our currency. Most of the model farms are said to make a consider-
able yearly profit; that at Glasnevin averaging over £600 a year, not-
withstanding the yearly rental of £4 per acre for the land.

I may be asked, " Is not the farm connected with Cornell University
sufficient to meet our wants as an experimental station?" In my
opinion it is entirely inadequate. Apparently it has no recognized
communication with, and does not report to" the State Agricultural
►Society. In 1871, its officers reported to the Department of Agricul-

118

ture that " Ko experiments have been made and no special system of
labor has yet been adopted." "What may be said concerning it in the
last report, is as effectually sealed from mortal vision as though it were
securely locked in the vaults of some bank, for when I made applica-
tion for a copy, Commissioner Watts replied, that there were none for
" general distribution." Our loyal Congressmen, after having perpe-
trated what has been ironically termed the *•' salary steal," in their
desire to be economical, so cut down the appropriations to the Depart-
ment of Agriculture, that only 1300 reports could be printed for use in
this great country.

I would suggest the following plan, which, to my mind, seems fea-
sible, both adapted to our wants, and most likely to give the greatest
satisfaction to all. Let 100 acres be set off from the domain, as is
done in Pennsylvania, to be used as a model experimental farm. Let
the State Agricultural Society constitute its executive committee, to-
gether with the president and dean of the agi'icultural faculty, and the
oflficers of this association, a Board of Agriculture^ and let them, from
time to time, fix the programme, plots, and the rotation upon such
experimental stations as we may have. For convenience, let the col-
lege farm be called the " Western," and I look upon the time as not
far distant when we shall have an experimental dairy farm, in the
heart of the dairy regions, which may, with propriety, be denominated
the " Central Farm."

This plan would certainly be of great advantage in having, at 1
two stations, where practically the same experiments could be tested
by comparison, the one in the grain growing district of the State, the
other m the dairying regions. Let this farm be located, if possible,
contiguous to some thriving village, easy of access to visitors and
strangers, and required by law to be kept as a model dairy farm, an
example of thrift and enterprise.

Let there be located upon it a cheese factory which may receive the
milk of the surrounding section, and also a creamery; and let the per-
son in charge of this department be a skillful manipulator, competent
and willing to instruct others ; let it be, in fact, a school where those
who desire to perfect themselves in the art of cheese-making may go,
and by the payment of a moderate tuition receive instruction.

Here let the usefulness of the various grasses, valuable in dairy
husbandry, be carefully tested, and the system of seeding and cultiva-
tion carefully noted. All will admit that single experiments are not
so valuable as those made under scientific direction extending through
a series of years.

It is a universally conceded fact, that the numerous experimental
stations, so common in Germany, have paid back many times their
cost to the government. Should we not in Central New York, have
the facility of developing the beet-sugar industry, as the people of our
sister State of Massachusetts are now doing, upon their agricultural
farm at Amherst ? Can the Empire State afford to stand still and be
outdone by either Pennsylvania or Massachusetts ? The importance
of this industry must be apjjarent even to dairymen, when it is shown
that even in a small district of France, the introduction of beet cul-
ture has increased the number of oxen from 700 to 11,500, and the
annual yield of wheat from 976,000 bushels to 1,168,000.

From the five acres of beets raised upon the college farm at Am-
herst, under the direction of Prof. Goessman, was manufactured sugar

IIP

of the finest quality — white coffee, granulated and loaf— and this result
is arrived at: that "there would be little difficulty in obtaining one
ton of sugar per acre on the better class of tillage lands in Massa-
chusetts.

But I may be asked, How can we obtain a suitable farm to form the
basis of these desired results ? I believe I shall show, if I have not
already done so, that we have a right to ask of the Legislature an ap-
propriation for this object.

But in case the appropriation should be inadequate to purchase so
desirable a farm as wp. would wish, why could not the Jesse Williams
fund be used for that purpose ? Jesse Williams was a plain, practical,
intelligent farmer, and upon the farm was gained those achievements
which bave rendered his name illustrious. Would not the appropria-
tion of this fund in this manner be of far greater benefit to dairymen,
than if turned over to some already existing collegiate institute ? Con-
sidering the circumstances, I feel justified only in throwing out the idea
as a suggestion for future action.

In how far the enterprise we hope to found should be educational,
may properly be left'to the enabling act, but the appropriation,! trust,
will be worthy the Empire State. Though it may be no more than
Pennsylvania appropriates to one of her farms (12,000), let us show
the sincerity of our wishes and the honesty of our intentions, by a
faithful administration of the trust.

. Need I recall the names of those States which have made large ap-
propriations in the aid of an industrial education, with the f\irm as
the basis for observation and experiment ? Illinois, Michigan, Mis-
souri, Maine, Iowa, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, is there need to ex-
tend the list further? Is there not here furnished sufficient justifica-
tion for the course now proposed for adoption ?

At the recent meeting of the State Board of Agriculture of Con-
necticut, virtually the same subject was under consideration, which I
have thus imperfectly endeavored to present to your consideration ;
and it was unanimously decided to appoint a committee to memorial-
ize the Legislature, and obtain 810,000, which it was estimated would
be suflicient for a commencement, and that thereafter an annual ap-
propriation of five or six thousand dollars would be sufficient to con-
duct the enterprise successfully.

Need I argue that the dairy interest is entitled to due consideration,
when such counties as Chautauqua, Chenango and Delaware, each
produce more tban five million pounds of butter per annum, and St.
Lawrence more than eight and a half million, while Herkimer county
leads the list with 15,000,000 pounds of cheese ?

That the State Board of Assessors considered the dairying counties,
in the great majority of cases, as capable of bearing more increased
burdens of State government, is unmistakably evident, if we consider
that of the $-15,4:30,520 deducted from and added to other counties,
$37,802,742 was from the county of Kings alone, which, in 1870, is re-
ix)rted as having produced only 1,540 lbs. of butter, and no cheese. Of
the amount added to the assessed valuation of real estate, Herkimer
county, with its estimated value of farms at 833,432,152, producing
therefrom 1,212,051 lbs. of butter, and 5,101,654 lbs. dairy cheese, re-
ceives as its share, $594,582 ; and Oneida county, with its farms valued
at 840,106,660, producing 3,051,127 lbs. of butter, and 1,328,459 lbs. of
dairy cheese, comes in for the largest share, 87,636,038.

120

This prolific yield indicates an enormous drain upon the vital ele-
ments oi the soil, and as our hillsides and valleys have become de-
nuded of their forests, and from continual cropping exhausted of
much of their original elements, the fine grasses which once had undis-
puted possession of the soil are no longer to be seen, especially upon
our uplands, and it becomes painfully evident if we desire to retain
the high reputation we have formerly enjoyed, agriculture must needs
receive the helping hand of science. The question is no longer, how
can we cut down expenses, and thus create a margin for profit, but
the great question of the hour is, how can we obtain better crops, and,
if dairymen, an enlarged product of butter and cheese without materi-
ally enhancing the cost of production ?

The system of " experimental stations," which has been found such
an efficient aid in Germany, naturally forces itself upon our attention.

1 propose to consider for a moment, the burdens which this measure
imposes, and I am done.

The great majority of farmers in this State would scarcely be called
upon to pay more than one cent per annum for this measure.

Were the annual appropriation, $7,000, it would require an assess-
ment of 13,000 to make an annual tax equivalent to one cent.

The number of acres of land assessed in the State of New York, i»
27,876,223 acres, and the assessed value of real estate $1,<^92,533,071,
and the assessed value of personal estate is $437,102,315, making a
sum total of 12,129,625,386.*

President Seymour arose to impress upon the convention the neces-
sity of "more learning in agriculture. It needed the dignity of en-
lightenment. Washington, Jefferson, Adams, and many early states-
men of our country, were agriculturists as well as great men. In
England, wealth and power leads to country life. Wealth in this
country, leaves the farm for the city. In England, the agriculturists
are a power ; in this country, the civilian is powerful. Agriculture
should have students from all classes. Hence the reader's statements
should be qualified a little. It is not a fault in an agricultural insti-
tution that other than agricultural branches are taught. We need a
liberal education in agriculture as well as in any other profession.
The great interests of agriculture demand that all our people should
be acquainted with agriculture. Therefore, the idea should not go out
from tlie convention that none but farmers should be educated at
agricultural schools. What we want to do is, to create a taste for
rural life in the country. We shall thus give it a dignity and a power,
that now characterize that branch of knowledge in agricultural Eng-
land. And, after all, the greatest education comes from our inter-
course with one another. We must, above all, bear in mind that we
should not demand an exclusive education for ourselves, but let all
classes be benefited by our knowledge.

A paper was read by B. B, Moon, of Herkimer, on

SUNDAY CHEESE MAKING.

At a former session of this association, a committee appointed on
this subject of Sunday cheese-making reported, suggesting the plan of
making up the Saturday night's milk by itself, and preserving the

*The Agricultural College has a full Board of Trustees. The State Board of Agriculture of
Massachusetts, has only advisory action.

121

Sunday morning's milk for the purpose of making cheese on Monday.
This plan is open to two serious objections :

1st. It would iuTolve night labor for those who were required to
labor during the day, and this night labor would necessarily be fol-
lowed by devoting the hours of the ensuing day to sleep, and hence
the person would still be deprived of that recreation which all stand
so much in need of.

2d. All persons engaged in the factory not specially interested in
producing a good quality of cheese, Avould naturally hurry the opera-
tions, and this, in conjunction with the acknowledged difficulty of
making a first quality of cheese from milk recently drawn from the
cow, would naturally result in producing an inferior grade of cheese,
a consummation that we must guard against at all hazards. Perhaps
if this plan were carefully pursued, it might be preferable to the pres-
ent method. But it does not, as we have seen, give us the perfect rest
we desire, and we should incur a great risk of pecuniary loss in its
general adoption.

Others have proposed that all patrons of factories keep their Sunday
milk at home and make butter or cheese, as it is more convenient to
each. It is urged in favor of this plan that many farmers pursue a
system of mixed farming, and keep but a small dairy, say of fifteen or
twenty cows, and that the necessities of their families require about
the amount of butter that could be made from the Sunday milk. So far
as this class of farmers is concerned, this plan would be practicable ; but
there is another class who would produce more from their Sunday
milk than they readily could dispose of at home, hence they would be
compelled to incur the vexation and extra expense of seeking a distant
market for a comparatively small quantity of product, and again many
would fail of securing a good quality of product, and hence would pre-
fer to employ the skilled manufacturer at the factory. In point of
fact, one cause of the great popularity of our factory system is this very
exemption from Sunday labor of great numbers of our dairymen and
dairywomen. To require them to make up their Sunday milk would
be to return to the old ways that have been tried and found
unsatisfactory.

We come now to the consideration of another plan, and I M'ill re-
mark in passing, that it was tried by various farmers, under the system
of isolated dairies, and while it worked successfully in some cases it
did not in other, for want of that skill in handling large quantities of
milk that is now attainable under the factory system. The plan is
this, that all the fixctories that now make cheese only shall arrange
for making butter, and that all that part of the Sunday milk that can
not be made into whole milk cheese shall be made into butter. It Avill
require but a little additional expense for each ftictory to prepare for
butter-making. We would urge, in the adoption of this plan, that
there be no skim milk cheese made in those sections where cheese-
making is the leading pursuit. Let us produce nothing but first qual-
ity cheese or first quality butter. Incidentally, I must here allude to
my conviction of the truth of the proposition that those properties of a
first quality cheese, known as " body," " keeping quality " and " melt-
ing in the mouth,'' are largely due to the presence of cream in the milk ;
and hence, if we desire tosecure these elements of value in our pro-
duct, we must make whole milk cheese and feed our skim milk to the

122

calves and hogs, whose very birthright it is to receive it. The adoption
of this plan of making oiir Sunday milk into butter will, in practice,
transfer the burdensome portion of our Sunday labor mto the other
days of the week.

It will aiford abundant supplies of superior butter and superior
cheese for home consumption, and it is becoming well understood
that too little attention has hitherto been'^devoted to this class of con-
sumers. With the practice of non-skimming, it will give us cheese of
better eating and better keeping qualities, thus aflFording a more con
stant supply of the better grades, inducingincreased consumption, and
the consequent better average remuneration. Well, did our associa-
tion at its session last year resolve that American dairymen do noth-
ing to deteriorate the quality of our dairy products. The course I have
pointed out will tend to improve the quality of the product ; it will aid
the material interests of society ; it will give that rest and refreshment
that the physiological necessities of a large and increasing class of citi-
zens demand ; it will accommodate both those who desire to furnish their
own family supplies, and those whose great convenience it is to employ
the skilled manufacturer. It is reasonable and practicable and finally
it will tend to range the great dairy interest of our country in more
harmonious relations with the dictates of our nature and the require-
ments of an enlightened Christianity.

On motion of Mr. Green of Pennsylvania.

Resolved: That this convention tenders its thanks to the Dairymen's
Board of Trade and the citizens of Utica for the very elegant enter-
tainment provided for us at Baggs' Hotel, and that we interpret is as an
evidence of respect for, and appreciation of the object and efficiency of
our labors.

The report of the treasurer, B. B. Moon, wasjthen read. The report
showed a balance of $1.33 in the treasury. The secretary's report
showed a balance due him of $469.09.

Mr. J. H. Eeal, of Philadelphia, presented the following resolution,
which was unanimously adopted :

Resolved, That the thanks of the American Dairymen's Association
are hereby tendered to the representatives of the Utica Herald and
Utica Observer, for the full and reliable reports they have published of
the proceedings of this convention.

The committee on dairy apparatus and products, through the chair-
man, L. L. Wright, reported as follows :

f 'I Your committee on dairy apparatus and implements of husbandry,
would respectfully report :

1. The gang-press of Frazer & Fowler, we would confidently recom-
mend as far preferable to any other cheese press known to us.

2. The milk aerater of A. P. Bussey, furnishes a very convenient
mode of airing milk before sending it to the factory, and your com-
mittee deem the airing of milk by some method, as indispensable to
the highest success in cheese and butter-making.

3. The Jewett milk pan is too well known to require any commen-
dation from us. The Orange county milk pan is easy to be cleaned,
and allows the water to cool the side as well as the bottom of the
milk.

4. Seeger's empire cheese vat for low pressure steam, dry, has unusual
facilities for equalizing the temperature of the milk.

5. Gilberts & Harris' butter pail is worthy of favorable mention.

123

6. The Anderson steam boiler, exhibited by "Whitman & Burrell,
merits notice for the following considerations: 1. The rapidity with
which steam can be generated by it. 2. The easy method of supply-
ing it with water without the use of a pump. 3. The saving of fuel.
4. The water feeder is self regulating. Your committee were favorably
impressed with its mode of operation.

7. Charles Miller & Son's new method of heating milk in cheese vats
by steam, presents some novel features, among which is the extraordin-
arily small quantity of Avater required ; the great saving of fuel ; the
avoidance of sedimentary deposits ; the absence of the necessity of
watching gauge cocks, and obviating the trouble of blowing off. Ex-
periment would, however, be necessary to prove its general utility,

8. Two samples of dairy salt, one from the American Dairy Salt
Company, and one from Stone & Spencer, of Syracuse, appeared to be
very fine specimens of salt.

Your committee w^ould be exceedingly w^ell pleased to be able at all
times to obtain as good qualities for use, and we would earnestly urge
all American salt companies to raise the qualities of their productions
to as high a standard as the samples exhibited.

9. A model post driver, exhibited by Williamson & Allen, impresses
us very favorably as a labor-saving implement.

L. L. Wight, )

A. M. Gray, >• Committee.

J. G. COHOE, )

There was some denunciation expressed by several members against
the quality of Onondaga salt, which was not at times up to the stand-
ard. The manufacturers can make a good salt, if they choose, it
was claimed, but they did not always choose to do so.

Mr. Hawley thanked the gentlemen for their criticisms and would
thank them for any information they might hereafter give with refer-
ence to any falling off in quality.

Governor Seymour announced that Secretary Arnold, in exercise of
the power granted him by Mr. Scoville's amendment to tlie constitu-
tion of the association, had appointed Edward J. Wickson, of the Utica
Herald, assistant secretary.

Mr. 0. S. Bliss invited the members of the association to meet with
the Vermont Dairymen's Association at its convention, next Wednes-
day.

The convention adjourned.

The following contents of the question drawer, from a crowd of
business, failed to receive attention. Brief answers are here appended:

Is feeding the surplus whey of a factory to a herd of cows, injurious
to the product obtained from the milk of said cows ?

Answer — It is ; for the reason that it becomes sour and stale before
it can be fed. The slow process of making cheese in factories usually
renders the whey unfit for feeding before it is all separated from the
curd. Whey is very sensitive and quickly spoils. Whatever taint or
other fault it may acquire is sure to reappear in the milk if fed to cows.
If used as soon as it could be dipped off from the curd, it would prob-
ably not be injurious.

Question — Why is it that there is so great a diversity of standards
on the part of the largest dealers, in regard to the quality of cheese?

Answer — One reason is, because large dealers often buy for different
markets, each of which is best suited with some particular varietv.

124

Another reason is, buyers are very apt to make their standards for
excellence conform to their own tastes, which are frequently quite
different.

Should like to hear the experience of factorymen who have tried to
heat their curing rooms with steam. J. VAN DUZEN.

Experiments in this method of heating have proved very satisfactory.
The temperature is easily controlled, and the heating cheaply and con-
veniently done.

. Question — Why ought not the exhibition of samples of cheese and
butter of all grades, to be made a leading feature of these conven-
tions ?

Answer — Such an exhibition would form a very profitable and inter-
esting feature in all conventions of the kind, and it is earnestly hoped
that the American Dairymen's Association will in future adopt it.

Question — Why does creamy butter fail to keep as well as dairy
butter ?

Answer — iFirst : Because the milk is generally carried to the cream-
ery warm and closely covered, and receives injury thereby. Second :
Because it is often cooled so rapidly and so low, as to condense the
odor into a liquid and retain it in the milk, that also injures the keep-
ing of the butter. Third : Because that condensed vapor from the
atmosphere often collects on the top of the cream, by reason of the
wide difference in temperature between the water in the pools and the
air above them, in just the same way that sweat collects on a pitcher
of ice water in a hot day. The infection thus given to the cream goes
into the butter, which is thereby injured for keeping. Fourth : By
mixing the milk of diflFerent herds together, the infectious quality,
which may chance to occur in the milk of any cow in any of the herds,
is imported to the whole. The chances of receiving injury in this
way increases with the number of cows.

Query 1st : How does the action of light change the color of
cream ?

Query 2d: Would butter be just as yellow if milk was set in the
dark ?

To Query 1st — The first effect of light on cream is supposed to
increase oxydization, deepening the color. The second effect, by the
development of organic germs, induces decomposition and diminishes
color, rendering the butter pale.

To Query 2d — Where milk is set in the dark, color is not developed
and the butter is pale. But milk should not be exposed to a strong-
light, or only for a short time, as it will soon grow pale by such expos-
ure. The best color is obtained by setting milk in a moderate light.

COMMUKICATIONS AND EXCERPTS,

DAIRYING IN WISCONSIN.

Ladoga, Wia.^, January oth, 1874.
L. B. Arhold, Esq., Rochester, N. Y. j

Dear Sir : — In writing on tlie subject of the dairy interests of Wis-
consin, its progress both in quality and quantity, I shall step back a
few years, to about the time we commenced making cheese in Fon du
Lac Co., and I believe 1850 was the date. At that time there was but
three or four dairies in the county that made cheese, and those dairy-
men were from New York state — most of them from Lewis Co. That
was my native county. At tliat time there was very little sale for
cheeae, and no way of getting it to market except with teams. As
there was but a limited demand of course, the dairy products did Jiot
increase very fast. There was another objection in the way of develop-
ing that branch of husbandry. That was the entire absence of the
cultivated grasses. Dairy cows did not do first rate on our prairie
grass, and the farms were new, and there was very little land stocked
down with the cultivated grasses. One reason was the soil, although
it was very rich and productive with prairie grass or grain 5 there was
too much alkali in it to ])roduce a good crop of hay, or pasture for a
term of years. The alkali in the soil appeared to be just what was
needed for a good crop of wheat, but the absence of it was necessary
for a good crop of grass.

From this cause originated the idea that this soil is not adapted to
the raising of the cultivated grasses- This idea was, 20 years ago cor-
rect, but at present it is not.

Perhaps I can explain the cause of the difference in the soil l)etter,
by giving the reason why there was so much alkali in the soil.

It came there by the l)nrning of tlie prairie grasses and other vege-
tation for centuries past, until the ashes from the burnt vegetation had
become a part of the soil. When the country became settled, and the
fire was not allowed to run over the prairies, the supply of ashes was
cut off, and it gradually disappeared from the soil that remained uncul-
tivated, and much more so in the cultivated soil, until our land has
become virtually changed, so far as its adaptation to the production of

126

the grasses is concerned. As this change was going on a change in the
order of crops was necessary, and with this change came the increase
of dairy products. The longer our lands has been cultivated and pas-
tured the better they become adapted to dairy husbandry.

At present date there are but a small proportion of the farmers that
make dairying a specialty. Many more possess a mixed course of
farming. They raise wheat and coarse grain, some stock, some wool,
some pork, &c.

In 1864, I commenced running the first cheese factory in this part of
the State, and I believe the first one of any amount in the State.
Commenced with 100 cows. Have increased in amount nearly every
year since then. At present I have the milk in the warmest weather
of about 1000 cows, but don't average for the season 800, and a major-
ity of this, number are kept by farmers that make raising grain their
principal business, and pay but little attention to the dairy.

As ihe demand for dairy products increased, and facilities forgetting
it to market have been much improved, farmers have turned their
attention to the dairy, which has increased steadily the last six to eight
years.

We have at present 130 cheese factories in the State, and have manu-
factured the past season about 10,000,000 pounds of cheese.

Two years this winter we organized a State Dairymen's Association.
Since that time there has been a great improvement in the quality of
our Wisconsin cheese. We are making cheese that sells readily in any
of the markets at fair prices — I believe up to the standard of prime
New York State factory cheese.

Our Wisconsin cheese has been sold in New York three or four sea-
sons at good prices, and some factories have shipped direct to Europe.

Michigan, Illinois and Minnesota are on three sides of us, and the
dairy products are increasing in them. I think in about the same
proportion as in Wisconsin, at least in Illinois and Minnesota, which
cuts off a portion of our local trade, and makes it necessary for us to
ship a portion of our cheese East. We have to sell our dairy products
when we can, at best advantage notwithstanding. X. A. Willard thinks
we ought to sell it all here in the West.

New York State has some advantages over Wisconsin as a dairy
country, and Wisconsin has some advantages over New York. New
York fs nearest the cheese markets of the world. She has been in the
dairy business as a specialty for a long time, which is a great advan-
tage over beginners, and those who are a long distance from the markets.

Land is cheaper in Wisconsin, does not require as much capital to
start a dairy farm, and has a much richer soil than New York. We can
keep more stock on the same number of acres, and can produce more
hay. We can raise three bushels of corn and two bushels of oats to
one in New York, that is, on same number of acres, and land can be
bought for less money, which I consider gives Wisconsin the preference.
We get our cheese shipped from nearest railroad station for $1 per 100
lbs. to New York city.

Our dairies that are well cared for make from 500 to 600 lbs. of
cheese per cow in a season. One dairy in Kenosha Co. has made on
an average for six years past, 600 lbs. cured cheese to the cow, from a
dairy of 60 cows.

I should have attended the American Dairymen's Convention at
Utica this winter, but circumstances prevented me from doing so.

127

I have manufactured this season in Ladoga factory 240,692 lbs.
cheese, and in Brandon factory 45,000 lbs. cheese.
Truly Yours,

CHESTER HAZE^,
President Wis. State Dairymen's Society.

Iowa Falls, Iowa. January 27th, 1S74,
L. B. Arnold, Esq., Eochester,"]Si'. Y. :

According to your request I send you a condensed report of the
present dairy interests of this State :

The dairy interest of Iowa is yet in its infancy. It is about ten
years since attention first began to Ije turned to dairying, and the
growth of this branch of husbandry has been slow.

There are, I should estimate twenty-five or thirty small factories in
Northern Iowa. Of the dozen or so that I know, either personally or
by reputation, most have maintained a sickly existence for the past
two to six years, making only from X' 0,000 to 30,000 lbs. of cheese per
Season. Three or four have expired from want of nourishment (pat-
ronage,) and I presume those located beyond the bounds of my
acquaintance have not fared very much better. When I look for the
cause of this partial failure, I find it partly in our climate, which is
subject to extreme heats and drouths, partly to the poor milking qual-
ities of the cows, partly to reliance being made entirely on the native
grasses for summer feed, and partly that our farmers are not practical,
dairymen, but much more to the system of agriculture adopted by
them. Grain raising is made the leading branch of agriculture, next
stock growing, and last and least dairying. I will illustrate.

A farmer owns 160 acres of land, 100 of it fenced, this he plows and
crops with wheat, oats, barley and corn, depending entirely on the com-
mons for his pasture and his hay. He has 10 or 12 cows and 30 head
of young cattle, these feed on the commons during summer, sometimes
near home, but more often one, two, or three miles away. He is anx
ious to have a cheeae factory started, as he has no use for his milk
after the middle of June, except to make butter at ten cents per pound,
" store pay." Some one is induced to build a factory, he gets but little
milk till June, as the calves must all be raised, and then when the
summer drouths come on in July and August, the milk rapidly falls
off and taints are almost of daily occurrence, owing to mismanagement
on the part of the factory. In the Autumn the farmers finding the
income from their cows rmich less, nwd the labor and trouble much more
than they expected, many of them give up the business in disgust.
This picture may be overdrawn for the eastern and older counties of
the State, but for the central and newer counties, I think it is not.
My largest patron milking 40 cows, drives them three miles to pasture
every day from May to October, and not a green tiling can they get for
the first two and a half miles, and not a feed of anything do Uiey get
at home during the entire season. His cows make' him a little more
than 200 pounds of cheese each for the season of a little less than six
months. I look for only a moderate increase of the dairy interest in
this State for some years to come.

128

Northern Iowa is very well adapted to the production of the culti-
vated grasses, except the drawback of liability to drouths, and when
farmers can be induced to give up grain raising and seed down their
lands and make dairying a specialty, then dairymen and factorymen
will prosper.

My receipts of milk for 1873 were 628,084 ; cheese sold, 73,936
milk for one pound cheese 9.82 lbs.

List of cheese factories so far as I know :

N. Eldred, Iowa Falls, Hardin Co., Iowa.

Beardsley, Alden, Hardin Co., Iowa.

Pearce, Belmond, Wright Co., Iowa.

Foster, Empire, Wri^it Co., Iowa.

Coffin, Fort Dodge, Webster Co., Iowa.

Gilbert's, Wyoming Valley, Jones Co., Iowa.

Knowles', Spring Vale, Humboldt Co., Iowa.

Name not known, Nevada, Story Co., Iowa.

Name not known, Marshalltown, Marshall Co., Iowa.

Two at Clear Lake, Cerro Gordo Co., Iowa.

One at Mason City, Cerro Gordo Co., Iowa.

One at Charles City, Floyd Co., Iowa.

I was awarded the first premium on cheese at the State Fair, but do
not think it any great recommend, as the cheese exhibited was poor,
(13 samples.) Truly Yours,

N. ELDEED.

COST OF PRODUCING A POUND OF CHEESE.

BY HON. J08IAH SHULL, OF ILIOJST,
Prepared for the American Dairymen's Association.

The first question that suggests itself to the dairy farmer, as also
is the case in any pursuit, '' will it pay ?" How and in what way, or
how can dairying be conducted to pay best ?

There has been an impression, prevailing to some extent, that the
best way to get a fortune in a very few years, was to go into dairying.
The fact is, that, to make dairying ^Jrt^, the most scrupulous economy
and the best skill in the management of the details must be observed.

But too few of our farmers keep accurate accounts of receipts and
expenditures of their farming operations. If more of our farmers should
keep farm accounts, a greater degree of success would be the result.
They sell their product at what they suppose to be a good price, and
conclude they are making money. When the year comes round, and
the products have all been sold, and the expenses paid — it is found
there is no money laid up.

It may be the case that a farmer may have all the help within his
own family to carry on tlie dairy. Without counting the expense, he
may be making money. It is said " the laborer is worthy of his hire."
If so, then the family is to be used in the account. It is not reasona-
ble to be supposed that the possessor of a family would be willing they
should receive nothing for their services. In estimating the expense
then, every item of labor, of wintering, pasturage, interest, and depre-
ciation of stock, must be brought into the account.

129

I will assume the dairy as an independent item in the transactions of
the farm. Whatever of grain or other products of the farm, shall be
produced outside of the dairy, will go to the support of the members
of the family.

I will assume as a basis of my calculations, a dairy of twenty cows,
estimating their value in the spring, at the opening of the season, and
their keeping for a full year, aud requiring for supervision, feeding,
milking, and carrying the milk to the factory, the services of one man,
one-half his time for the year.

EXPENSES — 1873.

Keeping to hay twenty cows, 180 days, (17tbs. per day for each — at

$20 per ton) at $30.60 each $612 00

Pasturage for the season at $15.00 300 00

Labor of man, including board, at $1.25 per day, one-half his time 228 12

Interest on 30 cows, at $40 each, $800,00. 56 00

Depreciation, 15 per cent 120 00

Total $1,316 12

PRODUCT.

Four hundred pounds to a cow, is the usual product of cheese made
at the factory in a season. In addition to this amount, the product of
milk obtained before the opening and after the closing of the factory,
reduced to cheese, will be about forty-eight pounds to a cow. The value
of the deacon skin and the manure, reduced in value to pounds of
cheese, and we have thirty-seven pounds more. These items added
make four hundred and eighty-five pounds, the total amount of cheese
product to each cow. In a dairy of twenty cows this makes nine thou-
sand and seven hundred pounds of cheese. The amount, one thousand
three hundred and sixteen dollars and twelve cents, the expenses of a
dairy of twenty cows, divided by nine thousand seven hundred, the
number of pounds, and we have (13,568) thirteen cents and five hun-
dred and sixty-eight one-thousandths of a cent, the cost of a pound of
cheese.

The Frankfort cheese factory, in the county of Herkimer, owned
and conducted by C W. Smith, the past season, (1873) manufactured
(332,132) three hundred and thirty-two thousand one hundred aud
thirty-two pounds of cheese from (814) eight hundred and fourteen
cows ; producing (415) four hundred and fifteen pounds to each cow.
This lactory was run about fifteen days beyond the usual time for run-
ning. It will be seen that in extending the time the average Avas fifteen
pounds more than the quantity shown in the foregoing statement. The
cheese of this factory sold on an average, for the season, at (13.42) thir-
teen cents aud forty-two one hundredths of a cent a pound. Deduct
the expenses of manuiiicture and boxes, and the patrons received net
(11.17) eleven cents and seventy-seven one hundredths of a cent per
pound.

In 18G7, Mr. Peter B. Myers, of Herkimer county, at a meeting of
the Little Falls Farmers' Club, made a statement of the receipts and
expenses of his dairy for that year. His dairy consisted of forty-five
•^•ows, producing eighteen thousand pounds of cheese, which sold at
* 14.30 per hundred pounds; aggregating two thousand five hundred
and seventy-four dollars. His expenses for labor, taxes, interest on
land, interest aud depreciation of the dairy, keeping teams, repairs of
•buildings and utensils, and incidental expenses, amounting to two
9

130

thousand six hundred and seventy-six dollars. His cheese cost
(14.866) fourteen cents and eight hundred and sixty-six one thou-
sandths of a cent per pound, or $1486^ per hundred pounds. The
total amount of his expenses exceeded the receipts by one hundred and
two dollars.

At this meeting the Hon. E. C. Eice, of the county of Herkimer,
made a statement of receipts and expenses of Ids dairy. Mr. E. is re-
garded as a very careful and successful farmer, whose estimates were
very carefully made. He kept a dairy of fifty cows, which yielded
twenty thousand pounds of cheese ; at fourteen cents a pound, it
brought two thousand eight hundred dollars. He charged as expen-
ditures, interest on cows, taxes, repairs, insurance, hired help, and
making and boxing cheese, two thousand five hundred and forty-four
dollars, leaving a profit of two hundred and fifty-six dollars. This re-
sult made a pound of cheese cost (12.72) twelve cents and seventy-two
one hundredths of a cent per pound.

By Mr. Eice's statement it will be seen that the receipt was more
than a cent per pound — more than the cost, while all the other state-
ments make the opposite appear.

At this meeting, Mr. Eice gave it as his opinion, that a pound o
cheese could be made for seven cents. Being called on to give the
items, the footings gave the figures as before stated.

At a meeting of the Central New York Farmers' Club, held in No-
vember, 1870, the subject of the cost of a pound of cheese was under
discussion. Dr. L. L. Wight, of Oneida county, made a very careful
account of all the items of expense, and made a pound of cheese cost
fourteen and two-thirds cents. This was about the average of the best
factories, during the season. The above price included the manufac-
ture and boxes. Deducting this cost, we have thirteen cents, the cost
of a pound of cheese for that year. The net receipts by patrons, for
the season, was (12.363) twelve cents and two hundred and sixty-three
one-thousandths of a cent per pound.

The average price the btst grade of cheese sold for in .New York, in
1872, was (15.23) 15 cents and twenty-three one-hundredths of a cent
per pound. From which deduct the cost of boxes and manufacture,
and the freight and agencies, and Ave have left (12.83) twelve cents
and eighty-three one-hundredths of a cent per pound. It is to be
borne in mind that this price is the very top of the market for the very
best of the product. Take in consideration that every factory will
have a few lots of hay make, or late ends of cheese that are sold for
twelve or thirteen cents, or even for less per pound, the price will be
reduced from one-fourth to one-half cent on a pound for the entire
make of the season. In making this allowance, it will be seen that
twelve and one-third cents was the average price per pound of the best
factory make, which the dairyman received for the cheese product for
the season.

The average of all grades of cheese sold in New York, in 1873, was
(14^) fourteen and one-fourth cents per pound. Deducting the ex-
pense of manufacture, boxing, and freight, and agencies, and we have
left (11.85) eleven cents and eighty-five one-hundredths of a cent per
pound. It will appear from the foregoing, and a comparison of the
prices received for the year 1872 and 2873, that the product of 1872
brought nearly one-half cent a pound more than that of 1873. Much!

131

of this difference may be accounted for by the panic occurring in Sep-
tember, the effect of which was felt the remainder of the year.

COMPARISON".

By a comparison of the several statements it is found the^ receipt
and expense accounts of the dairy, per cow, a year, are as follows :

statement. Year, Eec'ts per cow. Expense per cow. Difference.

First .....1873 $58 44 $65 80 $7 3«

2d. Frankfort Factory 1873 57 14 65 80 8 66

3d. Myer's Statement 186? 57 20 59 47 2 27

4th. Rice's Statement 1867 56 00 50 88 5 12

5tlj. Wight's Statement 1870 54 47 63 05 3 58

The expense of wintering varies according to the price of hay, in
the year. In 1867, hay was worth fifteen dollars per ton; in 1870 and
in 1873, it was worth twenty dollars per ton. Reduce the price of
hay to $15,00 a ton, for wintering the dairy of 1873, and we find the
cost of wintering reduced to $23.95 each; a difference in favor of the
dairy of $7.65 ; leaving the receipt about equal to the cost of the pound
of cheese.

The receipt and cost of a pound of cheese, condensed from the fore-
going statement, are as follows:

Frankfort Factory — 1873 — received net for patrons, (11.77) eleven
cents anc' seventy-seven one-hundredths of a cent per pound : — Cost,
13.568 cents. Dr. Wight's statement— 1870— received (12.663) twelve
cents and sixty-six one-hundredths of a cent per pound: — Cost (13)
thirteen cents per pound. Mr. Myers' statement — 1867 — received
(14.3) fourteen cents and three-tenths of a cent per pound: — Cost,
(14.866) fourteen cents and eight3'-six one-hundredths of a cent per
pound. Mr. Rice's statement — 1867 — received (14) fourteen cents per
pound: — Cost, (12.72) twelve cents and seventy-two one-hundredths
of a cent per pound.

Tabulate all these, and we have the cost and price received per
pound, with the profit or loss, as follows :

Cost. Received. Profit or loss.

First Statement ..13.568 11.850 1.718 loss

Frankfort 13.568 11.770 1.798 loss

Myer's 14.866 14.300 0.566 loss

Rice 12.720 14.000 1.280prf't

Wight 13.000 12 263 0-737 loss

It is not my intention to discourage the dairy business. On the
contrary, I believe it the best business the farm can be appropriated
to, in this part of the country, provided it can be done in the best
manner.

Comparing the cost with the receipt of a pound of cheese, we find
the average cost to be about one cent a pound more than it sells for.
The question may arise how a dairyman indebted for part of the pur-
chase money of his farm is to pay for it, if it costs as much or more to
produce a pound of cheese than lie receives therefor. The only way I
see to reconcile this point is that, the producer, with his family, raises
enough from the farm in various kinds of produce to feed and clothe
the family, who do all the labor attendant on the dairy. He turns all
the odds and ends of his farming operations to the best account, taking
care, in the selection of the best breed of cows for milkers and for beef,
and in good attendance to the care and feed of the stock, to secure the
largest yield, and the largest price for his products.

132
ABORTION.

BY A. L. FISH, OF HERKIMEK.
Prepared for the Anaerican Dairymen's Association.

All the facts that have been brought before the public relating to
abortion in cows, seem short of determining the true cause. 'Those
who have been the greatest sufferers, having the best opportunity to
investigate the subject, are still in doubt. The most plausible theo-
ries yet advanced, have been as often met by opposing theories, based
upon facts.

Professor Briggs is the only man I ever met who assumed to know
the true cause, and proffers a remedy to the public. To prove the
truth of his theory, I procured strong glasses, and examined aborting
cows, on their being slaughtered, and aborted calves, but found no
worms in the parts affected, but in all cases, the tissues connecting the
calf with mother, were in a dropsical condition, which is good evidence
to me that such a decaying condition is from cause, or causes, either
of which may not alone have produced abortion, but when connected
with other inducing causes would prove fatal — assuming that there
are many inducing causes that are controllable by judicious practice.

I will mention some of them : Feeble and overworked condition of
the sire; sudden change from low to high keeping, or vice versa;
surfeiting — especially with unhealthy, decayed food ; high degree of
excitement from any cause ; excessive milking upon unnutritious
food ; drying up the milk too suddenly ; too high temperature in ill-
ventilated stables, with loose, soaky floors, that retain the liquid
refuse till it becomes acrid poison, and emits poisonous exhalations ;
surfeit of cold water from untimely access to it. All of which are in-
ducing causes, and either of which, in excess, may be sufficient to pro-
duce abortion at a critical period of fatal development, and when their
combined influence is brought to bear upon the generative organs, as
it often is, it is not strange that abortion ensues. During thirty years
of practical experience with from thirty to sixty cows, it has been my
aim to avoid such influences, and to feed my cows sulphur with salt,
in spring and fall, to keep their blood in healthy condition, and never
have had abortion in my herd. Eecent observations have convinced
me that abortion may be arrested after the usual symptoms are appa-
rent, by a free use of Briggs' Eemedy. I have recently witnessed a
case where four young cows aborted in quick succession ; a fifth, (a
heifer with her first calf,) showed unmistakable signs, (by premature
growth of bag and bearing,) that she was affected like the others. As
an experiment, an ounce of sulphur was given, followed by two ounces
of Briggs' Eemedy, every other day, till four doses were given. All
the usual signs have disappeared, and she appears sound and healthy.

MILK:

ITS TYPICAL RELATIONS, AC. — BY E. LEWIS STURTEVANT, 31. D.
Of Waushakum Farm, South Framingham, Mass.
BREED TYPES,

We will first consider milk in connection with its yield. In general
terms, the quantity supplied by the cow has a determinate relation to

133

the type of the breed. In the cow, in a state of nature, we see an
animal incapable of yielding much more milk than is required by her
calf; and the surplus furnished over this amount is increased with
the degree of domestication, and the skill and art of the breeder who
seeks to secure the fulfillment of uses.

In our domesticated breeds we have a variety of types, in accordance
with the views of the owners of many generations, and the require-
ments of locality. The gray Swiss cow, useful for draught, and ac-
customed to feed on Alpine pastures, differs widely in form from the
Short-horn, a breed nurtured with the most artificial care, and supply-
ing in perfection an artificial demand, and these in turn, from the
Ayrshire cow, the symbolization of the dairy type.

Each sejDarate breed has not only its own type, but also includes in-
dividuals who depart more or less from the typical form. Under one
aspect this type may be considered as the average of all the superior
cows of the breed. This, in the Short-horn, is the brick-set-on-edge
form, with the head, tail and legs added more from necessity than de-
sire of the breeder, and with certain other requirements suited to the
fancy or supposed needs. The type of the dairy cow is the wedge
shape that results from the superior development of those parts con-
cerned in the production of milk. These two forms may be considered
the most perfect representation of animals fitted for the two require-
ments of civilization ; cheap and therefore abundant meat, and cheap
and therefore abundant milk.

In describing a breed, therefore, we must describe the typical an-
imal, and not the exceptional cow which departs from these shapes.

The typical cow, again, is an embodiment of the forms considered
the most profitable by the owner ; or in other words, is an expression
of the average opinion of the best breeders, of the form which is co-
related with their uses. The corollary to this proposition is, that the
more simple are the requirements of uses, the better defined is the
tyi^e of the breed in its shapes. For illustrations we may bring for-
ward the well known breeds. The Short-horn, massive and square
built, is designed by his breeder for beef, and Ave have accordingly the
form most ecojiomical for that purpose. When a family of this breed
has been bred for generations for the dairy, we have a departure from
this massiveness of form, and an approach towards the type of the
dairy breed. In the Ayrshire cow we have the form most economical
for the production of milk, and this form is one of great uniformity
except in localities where, under the influence of the ideas of beauty
adapted for 8hort-horn breeders, the fancy has allowed a deviation
from type.

DAIRY BREEDS.

The marvelous pliability of the animal to meet the requirements of
humanity, is not confined merely to external shape, but is also as
markedly in the functions ; and changes in this respect are as note-
worth\% aWiouf/k generally/ overlooked, as the more obvious changes of
form.

Let us now examine a few of the leading breeds, with reference to
dairy uses, expressing facts rather than opinions, remembering to ap-
ply our facts to the type of the breed, ratlier than to the excei)tional
cow ; and as we are limited for tmie, we will consider but a few of many
features. Let us first describe the typical udder of our breeds.

J 34

UDDEE.

Ih the Ayrshire cow the glands of the n cider are flattened and held
Urmly to the belly by a fibrons, and in part elastic tissue. The teats
are small, cylindrical^ and set far apart. The teats are a prolongation
of the gland structure, in order to foi-m an outlet for the secretion.
As the gland is flattened, the affinity seemingly required by structure
is, that the teat . should be rather short and flattened ; that is, cylin-
drical, rather than cone shaped. This shape of teat is a feature of the
Ayrshn-e cow, dependent on the structure of the ndder glands ; and
therefoi-e when fault is found with the shortness of the Ayrshire teat^
we are really complaining, through the teat, of that Avhich in the Ayr-
shire cow is a feature of her iisefulness. Howerer, although a flattened
gland is to be desired, yet we would not wish the organ spread out
" too fhin,^' and consequently we do not wish the teats too small, but
far smaller than is admissible in the type of some other breeds. It is
the proportion between the teat and the gland, that is sought, and the
perfect gland is furnished with a teat, short, to be sure, but of suffi-
cient length.

In the Jersey breed, the glands of the udder are pointed, and the
teats are cone shaped. They partake in form of the elongation of the
gland. The glands are not held as close to the body as^in the Ayr-
shire, but are more pendent. The glands are seldom of equal size,.
and the teats are closely set together.

The Holstein breed of cattle — and by Holstein I mean those known
in America by this name, the large black and white cattle from Hol-
land— have an elongated udder. There seems a hereditary want of
tone in the tissues, as it is usually quite pendant. The glands are
elongated, and in turn the teats are elongated cones.

Such are a few of the variations in the form of the milk glands,
consequent on breed, and the breed has been determined in a large
measure, as we have suggested, by the external influences within
which it has been, and is, being evolved. In a like manner, changes
have been produced in the milk, and the milk of the typiml animal of
each of these breeds has its own peculiarities, which render it better
suited for some purposes than for others,

MILK.

Milk is a well known, white opaque fluid, of an agreeable sweetish
taste. Its • proximate elements are Butter, Cheese, Sugar of Milk^,
Salts and water.

The water present is on the average, about eighty.seven per cent. ;
and the consideration of this constituent, nor that of the Salts, need
detain lis. The Sugar of milk occurs in about the same proportion as
the Caseine. I am not aware of its ever having been extracted as a
commercial operation in this country; the milk sugar nsed in the
United States being imported from Switzerland, where it is made on
an extensive scale.

The Caseine or Cheese, in its natnral condition in the milk is fiiuid,
and is recognized by being rendered insoluble, by the addition of acid
or rennet. It is very similar in composition to flesh, and is the nitro-
genous constituent of the milk.

The Butter, the proportion of which is very variable, occurs in the

135

milk in the form of small globules enclosed by an enveloping mem-
brane, and these globules are what give color to the milk, and affect
in a large degree, its weight. As they occur separated in the most
complete manner from the milk, their specific gravity is 983 at 62o F.,
the specific gravity of cream taken by weight. On the other hand,
when a drop of milk is dropped in a glass of pure water, the milk may
be seen to fall through the water till it ])rings up at tlie bottom, and
therefore cream has been called heavier than water.

The explanation of these discrepancies of interpretation are illustra-
tive of the discrepancies which are apt to occur and mislead when a'
complex and variable fluid is treated as a simple one.

It is a fiict that milk not only varies in each sample in the propor-
tions of its various constituents, but more than this, there is a varia-
tion in the size and grouping of the butter element, the milk globule,
and the recognition of this change is not without importance in the
business cf the dairyman.

I desire to present the following facts:

1st. The butt«r globules of the milk show a certain and definite re-
lation between the quality of the milk and the breed.

2d. The breed determines to a large extent, the composition of the
butter.

3d. The breed determines to a large extent the most economical
and advantageous manufacture of cheese.

My conclusions are derived from a series of experiments carried on
during the year 1873, and I have had the co-operation of my neigh-
bors in furnishing samples of milk from their herds, and in yielding
me the privileges of their dairies. In the Ayrshire and Jersey breeds
my'experiments have been fairly complete; in the Dutch or Holstein
breed more limited.

That my generalizations may not seem to have been made in a care-
less manner, I would say that by actual count I find recorded on my
note book considerations involving the recognition of 9623 milk glob-
ules, without taking into account other recorded observations which
have influenced me more or less.*

Fig. 1. X 813.

The milk globule of the Jersey breed is
larger than is the corresponding globule of
the other breeds mentioned, and there are
fewer globules under a certain size, say
jTOoo inch, and such for convenience I shall
call granules. See Fig. 1.

*NoTE. To observe the difference between these milks, as given in the text, be careful to
compare samples taken from the same relative position in the milk : i. e., observe the top layer of
cream in each sample, or the lower layer, or milk from the same distance below the surface of
samples which were obtained from the cow, and set aside at rest at the same time.

By doing otherwise the observations are not comparable as between the samples. Granules
will be found in each of the three milks under consideration, but in the Ayrshire alone do they
.•issume prominence.

136

Fig. 2. X 813,

The milk globule of the Ayrshire breed
is smaller than that of the Jersey, and
intermediate in size between those of the
Jersey and Holstein, and the milk from
individual cows of the Ayrshire breed can
be grouped into two classes or grades,
according to the size and distribution of
the globules. This milk abounds in gran-
ules. See Fig. 2.

The milk globule of the Holstein is the
smallest of the three. The globules are
more uniform in their size than in the
Ayrshire milk, and there are fewer granules.
See Fig. 3.

These globules determine some of the physical characteristics of the
milk. If samples of the Jersey, Ayrshire and Dutch milk are placed
in a percentage glass under like conditions, it will be noticed that the
cream will rise in each sample with a different rapidity ; the larger
globules on account of their less specific gravity reaching the surface
first.

As a matter of experiment some Jersey milk threw up its cream in
four hours, leaving a blue skim-milk ; some Ayrshire samples in about
ten hours, leaving a white skim-milk scarcely recognizable as such ;
some Dutch milk in about five hours, leaving a blue skim milk.

The larger milk globules and few granules being in part the expla-
nation of the first; the evenness of size of milk globules and few
granules, the interpretation of the reaction of the third, and the
numerous granules and unevenness of size of globule offering a solu-
tion for the appearance and action of the second sample.

As we suggested a few lines back, the Ayrshire breed maybe divided
into two classes, according as they have been bred for butter or cheese
purposes. The globule to the milk of the butter family of this breed
is larger than is the corresponding globule in the cheese family, and
consequently the cream rises more quickly to the surface of the milk,
and other consequences follow, which will be developed hereafter.

Suppose now Ave attempt to mix the cream again with the milk. It
was done with the utmost readiness with a sample of Dutch milk,
with more difficulty, yet perfectly, in the Ayrshire sample, and only
after considerable agitation with that from the Jersey cow.f

tNoTE. — In trying this experiment the cream should not be too old, nor should the surface be
condensed by evaporation. The experiment was tried by me, in bottles carefully corked, and
after about ten hours standing, the bottle was carefully reversed a number of times, and the pro-
gress of the mixing noticed. I unfortunately omitted to take notes ou this trial, so can give no
more exact particulars.

137

CHURNING.

The milk of these different breeds acts differently in the churn.
The larger the globule, the quicker is the butter produced from the
milk ; and the more uniform the size of the globule, the larger the
yield of butter from a given quantity of cream of equal richness by
analysis. The globules of similar size appear to be evenly affected by
the process of churning, and break at about the same time. This was
well illustrated by an experiment made of churning a portion of milk
from two cows separately, and weighing the produce. The amount of
butter was largely in excess of that gained by churning the same quan-
tity of the same milk mixed, and the microscope revealed the cause.

BUTTER.

COLOR.

The butter from cows of the same breed, and on similar feed, and
giving the same quality of milk, made frome the same milking, and at
the same time, does not necessarily present the same color. The color
for the Jersey breed, I think is yellow, more or less deep and tinted
with orange. That from the Ayrshire cow made similarly is yellow,
often a deep yellow, yet the orange tinge is lacking, so far as I have
observed. The Dutch butter^ speaking Irom one sample only, is a pale
yellow. In the Jersey and Ayrshire, and probably in other breeds, the
relation between the color of the oil excreted from the skin, and the
color of the butter is definite ; and between these facts and the appear-
ance and action of the milk, through its globules, there appears to be
a relation, which on account of the difficulty of identifying colors at a
distant period, I prefer to indicate rather than explain.

KEEPING QUALITY.

Pots of "butter from each of these three breeds were placed in a
cupboard near a steam heater, in order to test their relative keeping
qualities. There was one sample of Dutch butter, one of Guernsey,
seven of Jersey and two of Ayrshire. A few days later another pat
of Ayrshire butter was added.

Tiie Guernsey butter was very high colored ; melting point 96°, had
an oily rather than waxy look, but Avas very attractive. It moulded in
spots in about a month.

The Jersey butters in about seven Aveeks were all slightly rancid.
One sample lost its color in spots, the white spots left resembling tallow
in color and taste; no butter flavor.

The Ayrshire butters had lost all flavor, were poor, very poor, but
scarcely rancid.

The Dutch sample, the best preserved of the lot.

This experiment, carried on in such a warm place, showed that in
practice any or all of these butters would have kept as long as required,
under favorable conditions.

When Jersey batter is shaken up in hot water, and the foreign mat-
ter enclosed is Avashed out, a sediment is deposited from the heated
water, which has been in my experiment, more flocculent in character,
and more abundant than that which was similarly washed from the
Ayrshire butter. Theoretically, I suppose the larger amount of this
nitrogenous matter would unfavorably affect the keeping quality.

138

CHEESE.

From what I have said of the milk it is seen that different samples
are differently constituted. Considered with reference to their globules
alone, the breeds all give milk of pecuhar properties. Prima facie,
that milk most economical for the cheese manufacturer to use, is the
one which will allow the globules to remain in the cheese, giving to it
richness and flavor. Which breed will best supply this quality of milk
will be indicated in our Practical Considerations.

Dr. Voelcker, it will be remembered, states that the price of cheese
is usually influenced by the quantity of butter contained therein ; yet
in another place he says " The rich appearance of old cheese, however,
is by no means attributable entirely to a very large proportion of but-
ter, nor is the poor condition of new or badly made cheese referable
solely to a deficiency of butter. One of the chief tests of the skill of
the dairy maid is the production of a rich tasting and looking, fine
flavored, mellow cheese from milk not particularly rich in cream.
That this can be done is abundantly proved by the practice of good
makers."

In the accounts of cheese making that we obtain from the Trans-
actions of Dairymen's Associations, we find both concordant and con-
flictiug testimonies. Some makers advocate taking the cream of one
milking for the purpose of butter making, and deny any injurious
influence therefrom, on the cheese, while others deprecate this course.
M. Gardner B. Weeks has sold from his creamery skim-milk cheeses
in quantity, at a j^rice within a cent and a half a pound of the highest
quotation of whole milk cheese. All writers unite in testifying to a
loss of butter in the whey, and processes are patented for the extrac-
tion of this whey butter for family use.

The discussions on these points although of great value, yet are
one-sided. The complex nature of the fluid dealt with is entirely
ignored, and the opposing observations of careful experimenters are
not necessarily conflicting; but may be, and are probably, caused
by the differences in the richness or physical conformation of the milk.
The mixed milk of many cows does not always indicate to chemical
appliances the actual or potential value to the dairyman, for lie deals
not alone with composition but with structure, in the processes of
either butter or cheese making.

During the ripening of cheese, a portion of the caseine or curd suf-
fers decomposition, and is partially changed into ammonia; the latter,
however, does not escape, but combines with fatty acids produced in
course of time from the butter. The peculiar mellow appearance of
good cheese, though due to some extent to the butter which it contains,
depends in a higher degree upon a gradual transformation which the
caseine or curd undergoes in ripening.

Such being the process, it is quite evident that an even distribution
of the fatty matter through the curd is" desirable, in order that each
particle of ammonia, as set free, may at the moment, be in contact
with the fatty acid which is supplied from the globule. . Consequently
that milk which is the richest by analysis, and yet which throws
up the least cream upon standing, most nearly fulfills the desired con-
ditions. Even another efl'ect may be noticed. When the ammonia is
in excess in parts, we have the force of the gas exerted to escape from
its surroundings, and a puffy cheese may result; unevenuess of struc-
ture is generated, and other undesirable features.

> 139

The same care used in making cheese, from milk of the breeds we
are considering, will show a different quality in the separate cheeses.
The cream of a few hours, may be taken from the milks before the
manufacture, and the cheeses so made will be of widely different quali-
ties, some selling as skim, others as full milk cheeses; and even in the
manufacture of the whole m\lk, the differences will be perceived in
accordance with the structure of the milk, and such differences will
very probably be developed to a still greater extent in the ripening.

Let me repeat, the milk theoretically adapted for cheese is one of a
small globule, the smaller the better, approaching granules even, in
size, yet furnishing abundant fat to analysis.

PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS.

TYPES.

As there is a breed difference in the product from the iidder, and
this is as marked for the typical cow, as is the type of the udder, it is
certainly a practical consideration that we should recognize types, and
if they are good types, not breed away from them through ignorance.

The Ayrshire breeder, who seeks to put the large coneshaped teat
on his Ayrshire heifers, is breeding away from the type of the breed,
and could never receive commendation in a Scotch show-yard, tor there,
the connection between the shapes of the udder and the yield, receives
unbounded consideration. The Jersey breeder, in seeking the cylindri-
cal and widely-set-apart teat, is breeding outside the type of the breed;
<md whether this which is so desirable for quantity of milk should be
persisted in, depends on the relation between the shape and the butter
quality, a relation, which has not yet, I think, been investigated.

JEKSEY MILK.

The Jersey milk separates its cream more completely than either
the Ayrshire or Dutch milks, and its cream usually churns into butter
more readily. The variation between the time occupied in churning,
is determined by the milk globule, and we find that the cream with
the largest globule takes less time to churn. The globule varies in
size, according to circumstances affecting the same cow, and we thus
have an individual' as well as a breed variation, but, as f\ir as I have
determined, within defined limits. Should milk be desired for the sup-
])ly of families, the Jersey milk, from these qualities which give it value
for butter, is unfitted. The cream finding its M'ay to the surf\ice so
speeclily and completely, allows a different quality of product to be fur-
nished to consumers out of the same can. If each customer received
the same quality each day, this would make less difference, but he who
receives a quart of cream to-da}', is dissatisfied Avitli the quart of blue
milk received at another time, and is apt to talk mysteriously about
''trout" and "presumptive evidence." . This feature of delivery, per-
haps, can be obviated by increasing care on the part of the man wlio
delivers, but this trouble is present, and is a necessity.

Again : this quality would seem to render the milk of the Jersey
cow unsuited for the cheese manufiicturer. As I gather from the con-
versation and writings of these people, there is a difficulty experienced
in retaining the cream in the cheese. A certain quantity rising to the
surface in the intervals of manipulation, will not again*^ mix with the
milk, in the ordinary process of making, and is accordingly lost to the

140

cheese. A milk whose globule rises quickly and completely, would
seem to aggravate this trouble, wherever used.

For butter, the Jersey milk is well suited. The cream rises quickly
to the surface, and churns with great facility under favorable circum-
stances, and little of the butter remains in the skim-milk. The size
of the globule, however, allows a large amount of nitrogenous matter
to remain entangled with the butter, and theoretically this would af-
fect its keeping qualities, as ordinarily made. The butter is usually of
an orange yellow color, and a judgment can be formed of the depth of
color the cow will give to her butter, by examining the wax secretion
of the ear. This secretion, it will be remembered, like the butter,
changes color by exposure to the air, and is probably afiected by the
"feed" of the cow. Some experience, and a knowledge of physiolog-
ical reasons, is required to interpret this indication correctly.

AYRSHIKE MILK.

The milk of the Ayrshire cow is habitually used in Scotland for the
manufacture of either butter, or cheese, or both. The effect of this on
her breeding has been to build one class of cows which are excellent
butter makers, and another class better suited to the production of
cheese. The cow which occupies a place between these two extremes,
is valuable both for the production of butter and cheese, although not
equal to the typal extremes for the production of either product alone.
This division "is nol only indicated by experimental practice, but also
by the appearance of the milk globules under the microscope. The
butter family of Ayrshires are large milkers, and their milk shows a
globule not equal in size to that from Jersey milk, yet large enough to
indicate excellent butter qualities. The butter is of a yellow color,
often deep, yet not possessing that peculiar orange tinge which is often
characteristic of the product of the Jersey cow. Its quantity is large
at the period of greatest flow, and as far as our facts indicate, the cow
of this division yields a large annual product.

The cheese family of Ayrshires furnish a large secretion of milk, con-
taining a small globule, and more numerous granules, than does the
milk from the butter family. The cream rises to the surface less
completely, and mixes again more readily. A practical difference be-
tween the milk of the two families being the greater uniformity of con-
stitution of the milk, after standing, in the one case than in the other.

The predominant feature of the Ayrshire milk from all the animals
of the breed, is the occurrence of abundant granules or extremely small
globules, .which gives a white rather than a blue appearance to the
skim-milk.

HOLSTEIN MILK.

The Dutch milk has a small globule, smaller than in the Ayrshire,
more uniform in their sizes, and a far less number so small as to be
called granules. Tlie cream accordingly rises somewhat slower than
does the Ayrshire cream, and leaves a blue skim-milk. The cream
seems to mix with the skim milk quite readily by agitation.

Our statements in regard to this milk may seem paradoxical. The
cream rises quicker than does Ayrshire cream, when considered with
reference to the whole amount ; for there is always a larger number of
granules left in the Ayrshire milk, for which there is not time between
the setting and coagulation, for gaining the surface. On the other

141

hand a certain amount of the Ayrshire cream rises to the surface quick-
er than does the Dutch cream. When the two milks are placed in per-
centage glasses, side by side, the Ayrshire milk will throw up five per
cent, while the Dutch milk is throwing up four; while the Dutch milk
will have thrown up ten per cent. Avhile the Ayrshire milk has thrown
up eight; while perhaps if both milks are left to the last moment be-
fore coagulation, the Dutch milk will show but ten per cent, while the
Ayrshire milk may show twelve. This statement is not an exact, but
a suppositions one, for the purpose of illustration, beiug founded on
impressions of mine rather than on proof. The butter family of Ayr-
shires will throw up the same percentage of cream quicker, than will
the Dutch milk I have used in my trials.

From a single experiment, the butter made from this milk Avas of a
pale 3'ellow, deficient in orange. It was of a firm, yet not waxy texture,
and displayed great keeping qualities. The milk was a long time in
churning, as would be expected from the size of the globule. The
quality of the globule fits this milk well for the cheese maker, yet the
absence of the granule in numbers, as indicated by the blue skim-milk,
renders it inferior to the Ayrshire milk for this purpose.

SUMMAKY.

The breeds can be aranged in the order of the average size of the
milk globule, as follows :
Jersey.

Ayrshire (butter family.)
Ayrshire (cheese family.)
Holstein or Dutch.

Likewise we can arrange the breeds, in accordance with certain pro-
perties of the milk.

The rapidity with which the cream rises. Jersey, Ayrshire, Dutch.

The rapidity with which the cream churns. Jersey, Ayrshire,
Dutch,

The completeness with which the cream rises. Jersey, Dutch, Ayr-
shire.

The value of the milk for cheese. Ayrshire, Dutch, Jersey.

Qualities desirable for the milk retailer. Ayrshire, Dutrli, Jersey.

It is thus seen that the Ayrshire milk occupies a middle place, ap-
proaching in one type the Jersey, in the other the Dutch milk, and
superior to either for cheese, by the presence of granules which cannot
1)6 separated from the skim-milk. As these summaries are those only
which are derived from my own experiments, I have not classified the
breeds for butter value, as I have as yet no clear indications of the
superiority of the Jersey milk over the Ayrshire milk for the quantity
of butter ; and as the quality is a matter of taste and preference, it is
unwise to express an opinion. Which of the two breeds are prefera-
ble, is more a question of locality and otlier circumstances, than one
to be answered by the examination of the milk merely.

IN GENERAL.

A curious feature brought out by experiment, is that the mixed milk
from two breeds, will not produce as much butter as will the same milk
churned separately. The explanation, is in the variation in the sizes
of the globitles. When a large globuled milk and a small globuled
milk is churned together, the larger globul'^s separate first into butter,

142

and the breaking of the smaller globules appear to be retarded. When,
therefore, a Jersey cow is kept in an Ayrshire or Dutch herd, for the
purpose of influencing the color of the butter, the large globules of the
Jersey milk are broken first in the churn ; and while the smaller glo-
bules are being broken, the butter which first came, is being over-
churned, and theoretically, at least, the quality of the result is impair-
ed, if not the quantity lessened. When a few Ayrshire or Dutch cows
are kept in a herd of Jerseys, and the milk churned together, both
theoretically and practically, a large portion of the butter of the small
globuled milk is left in the butter-milk, in the state of globules.

A like appUcation may be made to herds of native or grade cows.
Unless there is uniformity within certain limits, in the milk globule,
there is a loss of product. When uniformity is so seldom found in ex-
ternal shapes of a grade or native herd, it is not probable that any
.greater uniformity exists between their functional productions.

The bearing of these hicts of the physical construction of the- milks
on practical questions, such as the depth of setting milk for cream, etc.,
are obvious. It is unsafe to arrive at empirical conclusions, and enun-
ciate such as law, when scientific conclusions can be attained. Thus,
in reference to deep cans for the butter dairy : with Jersey milk when
the cream rises rapidly, they muy be the best, but with other milk
coagulation may occur before the smaller globules have reached the
surface. Again, the quality of the cream of the different risnigs is
widely different in the churn, and this complicates the question. It
it thus seen that both those who claim and those who deny the benefits
of deep setting of milk may be equally right from the standpoint of
their own practice, while both may be equally wrong in applying their
conclusions to other people's practices ; for the resnlts are afiected by
the physical conformation of the milk, a sufficient cause for differing
conclusions, and a cause whose influence has thus far been entirely
overlooked in dealing with such apparently simple, yet really complex
problems.

FINALE.

MILK REQUIREMENTS.

For Butter -.—That the globule should be of good size, of uniform
size, and should be in abunclance ; or expressed otherwise, a large per-
centage of cream.

Requirement Hst fnlfilled by the Jersey, Ayrshire (butter family.) _

For Cheese:— That the globule should be so small as to remain
mixed with the milk under all circumstances; i. e. a white and not
a blue skim-milk.

Requirement fulfilled by the Ayrshire.

That the globule should be easily mixed with the milk again after

rising.

Requirement best fuIfiUed by the Dutch and the Ayrshire.

For the Milk Retailer : — That the globule should remain for a
sufficient period mixed with the milk, so that an evenness of quality
may occur during delivery to customers.

Requirement best fulfilled by the Ayrshire and Dutch.

Farmer's Eequirement: — An abundance of yield under given
circumstances.^

Requirement fulfilled in the order Ayrshire, Dutch, Jersey.

jNoTE That the applications are those which are shown under the circumstaaces of aame local-
Sty and known treatment.

143

BKEED ADAPTATIONS.

We have in this essay indicated the following results for breeds :

The Ayrshire coiu is superior in those shapes which indicate milk
production, to the Dutch or the Jersey cow.

The Ayrshire cow, butter family, is especially fitted for the dairy
faamer wlio packs his butter, and sells at the market quotations.

The Ayrshire cow, cheese family, is especially fitted for the cheese
manufacturer, as she possesses his requirements in such excess, that
reasonable skimming of the vats may be practiced, without injury to
the saleability of the product.

The Ayrshire cow, without regard to the branch she belongs, will
average well for butter or cheese, or both, without possessing either
quality in such excess, as do the cows of that family of the breed
which have been solely bred ior either purpose.

2'he Jersey coiu is superior to the other two breeds in those qualities
of milk which indicate quick churning, and, (in those markets which
have been educated to the orange 3'ellow color and waxiness,) a large
price.

The Jersey cow is fittted by the quality of her milk, for the village
resident, the suburban locality which has special facilities for the dis-
posal of butter, and for the amateur farmer.

The Dutch cow possesses a milk neither pre-eminent for butter or
cheese, yet possessing qualities which will allow of the manufacture of
either, but not to the best advantage. The products of this cow re-
quire further study, as the keeping quality of the butter in my own
experiment was so remarkable as to indicate strongly the direction of
her usefulness.

LOCALITY ADAPTATION'S.

Jersey breed. Local and Suburban.
Ayrshire breed. Cosmopolitan and Universal.
Dutch breed. Preference, limited by Locality.

CHEESE AS A FOOD.

BY E. W, STEWART, IJT LIVE STOCK JOURNAL.

Xo more important questions can occupy the attention of the stu-
dent of social science than those relating to human food. The ad-
vancement and development of the race depend primarily upon its ali-
tnent. And as man is the ultimate of all created earthly beings, so
food should be combined of the most progressed elements in eartlily
production. Vegetables contain all the elements composing the
bodies of animals, but in a lower state of organization. The cow eats
grass and finds in it all the elements necessary to build up and sup-
port her own system, and these she concentrates and progresses into a
higher order of food for man.

The muscles, nerves and brain power of man must be supported by
nitrogenous food, and the more progressed and highly organized this
food IS, the more perfect will be the muscular power, the more delicate
the nervous sensations, the keener and more profound the mental pen-
etration. The subtle mind of Shakespeare fathomed all this, for hr
makes Cassius say :

Now iu the uame of all the gods at ouce,
Upon what meat docs tliis our Cjesar feed,
Tliat he has grown so great ?

144

Our ideas of digestion and nutrition become much simplified as we
progress in chemical knowledge. It was once thought that the animal
stomach possessed the power of metamorphosing its food into such
elements as the system required, and therefore it was not material of
what elements the food was composed, so that it be eaten with relish.
But later science has demonstrated that the animal has no power of
changing one element into another, and can merely use what it finds
ready formed in its food. The vegetable elaborates — the animal ap-
propriates. It then becomes of the highest moment that one should
understand the elements of the food we use, and learn so to combine
these as to produce the highest development of health, strength and
personal beauty; thus attaining mental and moral culture.

All writers upon hygiene take milk as the best standard of human
food. It possesses all the requisites of a perfect food for the young
animal or the young child — all the elements of blood in solution, ready
for assimilation. Cheese is concentrated milk ; all the elements are
retained save its sugar, which is supplied abundantly by other food.

ITS HISTOKY.

The riiilk of sheep, goats and cows was one of the earliest resources
of human food. The earliest human history dwells lovingly upon the
pastoral life of the old patriarchs, and poetry celebrates the pleasures
of the keepers of flocks and herds. The graceful, beautiful heifer,
with mild eye, small head, slim, tapering neck, capacious sides, tail
sweeping the ground, was a pleasing theme of the ancient pastoral
poet.

The mention of cheese dates back as far perhaps as any authentic
history. It is obtained by a somewhat more complicated process than
butter, and probably was not as early known as a separate product of
milk. Yet we find Job referring to it thus :

Hast thou not poured me out as milk,
And curdled me as cheese ?

In 1 Sam. xvii, 18, Jesse commanded his son Dand to "Carry these
two cheeses unto the captain of their thousand, and look how thy
brethren fare, and take their pledge."

And they brought " honey and butter, and sheep, and cheese of
kine, (cow milk cheese), to David and the people that were with him,
to eat ;" 2 Sam. xvii, 29. The most highly favored of all lands, was
one floAving with milk and honey.

Wliat these Orientals probably knew as cheese, was merely pressed
curds formed in the shape of a sugar loaf, and yet were considered by
them as a great delicacy. In Barbary, at the present day, they press it
in rush baskets or vats.

Those highly developed and luxurious old Greeks were acquainted
with this delicacy in food, and Homer celebrated its virtues in the
feasts of warriors and victorious heroes.

There thrice within the year the flocks produce,
Nor master there, nor shepherd ever feels
A dearth of cheese, of flesh, or of sweet milk
Delicious drawn from udders never dry.

— Odyssey, (Cowper Trans.) Book 4, lines 105 -S.

Cheese was a common article of food among the Romans.
The Laplanders at an early period made cheese of the milk of rein-
deer, which was not only used as an important part of their food, but

145

as a medical remedy. When, imfortunately, a limb is frozen, they
anoint it with melted cheese and it soon recovers. For coughs, colds,
and diseases of the lungs, they boil cheese in fresh deer's milk and
drink the decoction in large, hot draughts, several times a day.

ITS CHEMISTKY,

Physiologists all admit the indispensable aid of chemistry to dietet-
ical science. It is not enough to know that a food is agreeable to the
palate and easily digestible, but what are its constituents, and what
part of the system it builds up. The human system is complex in its
elements, and its food must be likewise complex and various. The
proper mingling of carbonaceous and nitrogenous matters in our food,
together with their digestibility and easy assimilation, is the great art
of dietetics. Liebig well says : " There is a law of nature which regu-
lates these things, and it is the elevated mission of science to bring
this law home to our minds ; it is her duty to show why man and an-
imals require such admixture in the constituents of their food for the
support of the vital functions, and what the influences are which de-
termine, in accordance with natural law, changes in the admixture.
The young animal receives in the form of casein (cheese) the chief
constituent of the mother's blood. To convert casein into blood, no
foreign substance is required ; and in the conversion of the mother's
blood into casein, no elements of the constituents of blood have been
separated. When chemically examined, casein is found to contain a
much larger proportion of the earth of bones than does blood, and
that in a very soluble form, capable of reaching every part of the body.
Thus even in the earliest period of life, the development of the organs
in which vitality is, in the carniverous animal, depends on the supply
of a substance identical in organic composition with the chief constit-
uent of its blood."

The following is an average of 8 analyses of milk, 21 analyses of
whole-milk cheese, and five analyses of skim cheese, by Professor
Voelcker :

Whole-Milk Skim

Milk. Cheese. Cheese.

Water 86.84 34.80 37.35

Fat or Butter 3.80 27.50 21.91

Casein or flesh-formers 3.95 29.30 31.48

Milk sugar 4.60 3.80 4.52

Saltsorash 81 4.60 4.74

100.00 100.00 100.00

Percentage of dry matters 13.16 65.20 62.65 -

Liebig says the ashes of casein consist principally of phosphate of
lime or potash, which are requisite to build up and supply the waste of
the osseous system of man. Let us compare cheese with other forms
of animal food :

• Albuminoids, Fat-fonnin<^, Saltsorash,

Water. per cent. per cent. per cent.

Lean beef 73.0 19.03 3.6 5.1

Fat beef 51.0 14.08 29.8 4.4

Lean mutton 72.0 18.30 4.9 4.8

Fat mutton 5.3.0 12.40 31.1 3.5

Fat pork .39.0 9.80 48.9 2.3

Poultry 74.0 21.0 3.8 1.2

Eggs 74.0 14.00 10.5 1.5

White fish 78.0 18.00 29 1.0

Salmon 77.0 16.10 5.5 1.4

10

146

It will be seen if we compare lean beef, or lean mutton, or lean
poultry, with skim-milk cheese, that one pound of this cheese is equal
in supplying muscular force to one and three-fourths pounds of beef
or mutton, and one and a half pounds of poultry ; is superior in fat or
heat-producing power, and has more than double the nutriment per
pound. And a comparison of whole-milk cheese with fat beef, mutton
or pork, shows it more than twice as rich in muscular force, and not
inferior except to pork in heat or fat-producing qualities. It is more
than twice as valuable per weight as eggs.

Let us compare it to the farinaceous grains ,

Albuminoids, Fat-forming, Salts crash,

Water. per cent. per cent. per cent.

Wheat flour 15.0 10.8 72.5 1.7

Rye meal 15.0 8.0 75.2 1.8

Indian meal 14.0 11.1 73.2 1.7

Barley meal 15.0 6.3 76.7 2.0

Oatmeal 15.0 12.6 69.4 3.0

Rice 13.0 6.3 80.2 0.5

Peas 15.0 23.0 59.5 2.5

Potatoes 75.0 2.1 22.2 0.7

Here still we find cheese to contain two and a half times as much
muscle-forming food as either of these farinaceous grains, except peas.
But when we compare the carbonaceous matter of these grains,
(starch, sugar and fat,) with cheese, they appear to have the advantage.
But one pound of fat is reckoned by physiologists equal to two and
one half pounds of starch or sugar as food ; and thus the fat in cheese,
instead of being represented by 27.50, would be represented by 68.75,
making it equal to the starch in wheat flour. And here the dietetic
philosopher will perceive the true use of animal and concentrated
food. There is no source from which we may derive the carbonaceous
elements of human food as cheaply as from the farinaceous grain6.
Many of these are relatively deficient in the nitrogenous elements —
giving muscular force and power. They are also less easily digested
than animal food, and produce their results more slowly ; but when
proj)erly mingled with more nitrogenous food, such as milk, cheese,
beef, mutton, fish and other flesh, they form a diet leaving nothing to
be desired in respect to health or agreement with taste. A small
quantity of cheese taken with farinaceous food would make a proper
balance of constituents to build and sustain all parts of the system.
Less than half as much cheese would be required as beef, or mutton,
or eggs.

Cheese, therefore, among the foods easily obtained, appears, chemi-
cally, to be the most energetic in sustaining the vital force of the hu-
man system.

ITS HEALTHFULNESS.

As milk is the most perfect standard of human food, cheese, its
most important product, must be healthful, unless it shall have
changed its elements or condition in the process of manufacture.

Cheese contains all the elements of milk except sugar (whey.) The
loss of its sugar cannot render it less healthy or digestible, but only
deprives it of this supporter of heat and respiration ; which is easily
supplied in other food, such as bread, potatoes and other vegetables.
The oil of the milk is supposed to add to its digestibility, and this is
nearly retained in the cheese. The best proof of its healthfulness is
found in the fact of its common use among all civilized people.

147

It has been regarded, generally, as an excellent condiment, and used
as such at the end of dinner, as a digester of other food, and this has
given rise to the couplet :

*' Cheese is a surly elf,

Digesting all things but itself."

But Dr. Kitchner says this couplet contains " an absurd and vulgar
error."

Dr. Beaumont, whose remarkable experiments upon St. Martin, the
opening into whose stomach enabled him to determine the time it took
different food to digest, found cheese to require three and one-half
hours; and good wheaten bread, boiled j^otatoes and turnips, fried fish
and roasted beef, each required the same time. Therefore, judging
from its actual digestibility, it must be wholesome food.

Surgeon-General Hammond, in his work upon hygiene, says:
" Cheese is a wholesome article of food if used before it has become
old or undergone those putrefactive changes which, though they add
to its flavor, render it indigestible and irritating." This opinion is
quite opposite to other authorities, who regard it more digestible as it
grows old ; but this is presumed to be in accordance with his personal
experience, in extensive prescriptions in the army, and this view is
more in accordance with chemistry, as great age must render it more
insoluble, and like fermentation in other nitrogenous substances, dis-
sipa-te much of its nutriment.

Old cheese, after it has undergone partial decomposition, acts as a
ferment on the contents of the stomach, and thus hastens digestion.
It probably acts much like yeast in the housewife's dough, and this is
the cause of the re^Dutation of cheese as a digester at the end of dinner.
The luxurious Englishman, at the end of his huge dinner, "takes a
morsel of ripe ' Stilton.' "

Dr. Austin Flint, one of our most erudite physiologists, says : " Old
cheese taken in small quantity toward the close of a repast, undoubtedly
facilitates digestion by stimulating the secretion of the fluids, particu-
larly the gastric juice." Here its efl"ect is attributed to a diflerent
principle than that of its fermenting quality ; but an active ferment
may also increase the effect of the gastric juice. Dr. Flint seems to
coincide with the view of Dr. Hammond, when he says : " New cheese
is a highly nutritious article, as is evident from its composition."

The long experience of the English, Scotch and Irish laborer proves
cheese to be a most wholesome as well as nutritious food. A small
quantity of cheese, with them, takes the place of a larger quantity of
meat, and enables them to endure such hard labor as the American
thinks he can only perform upon a generous meat diet. In Germany,
farm laborers depend largely upon the curd of milk after being
skimmed for butter. This curd is frequently used in a fresh state,
and makes an important part of the laborer's diet.

PRODUCTIVE OF GREAT STRENGTH AXD LONG LIFE.

We will refer to some individuals who have used cheese as a steady
article of diet for many years or a lifetime :

It is related of a certain Dane that he could carry a stone so heavy
that it required ten men to lift it on his shoulders; that he performed
such wonderful feats of strength upon a diet consisting of large quan-
tities of thick sour milk, tea and coffee. His enormous strength must
have been sustained by the curd of the milk. This case refutes the
common error, that milk does not furnish a diet for vigorous manhood.

148

There are numerous cases in which a millv diet has sustained the sys-
tem under the most exacting labor. Wm. Vincent of Stonington, Ct.,
in a letter to Dr. Alcot, says : " I have lived principally on bread,
cheese and butter, with a few vegetables, for more than 24: years." He
entirely abstained from animal flesh.

Dr. Benjamin Rush, speaking of Ann Woods, who died at the age of
96 years, aays : " Her diet was simple, consisting chiefly of weak tea,
cheese, butter, milk and vegetables. .Meat of all kinds disagreed with
her stomach."

Ephraim Pratt, of Shutesbury, Mass., lived to the age of 117 years,
and made his diet mostly upon milk; and his son, Michael Pratt, lived
to the age of 103 upon the same diet. Athenseus, the Grecian, says one
Phabrinus lived more than 100 years, drinking milk for his only food.

Pliny states that Zoroaster remained twenty years in a desert, " liv-
ing on a small quantity of cheese only." Whether this be literally true
or not, it shows a strong opinion of the healthfulness and complete-
ness of cheese as a food.

Old Parr lived to the age of 153 years, and his diet was solely cheese,
coarse bread, milk, and a little small beer.

John Bailies, of England, who reached the great age of 123 years,
lived principally upon brown bread and cheese, and discarded flesh.

Prof. Adam Ferguson, for 40 years ate no flesh, but lived upon veg-
etable food, cheese and milk.

The American Encyclopedia says : " The peasants of some parts of
Switzerland, who seldom ever taste anything but bread, cheese and but-
ter, are a vigorous people."

Our American women take too little nitrogenous food, owing, per-
haps, to their great predilection for the finest flour and much pastry.
Their vitality is, confessedly, much lower than the better class of En-
glish women. Women are not such flesh eaters as men, and with their
love of sweetmeats, the nervous system becomes illy nourished. They
may almost be said to be made of starch and sugar. If they would make
cheese a more constant article of diet, and use more unbolted flour,
with more open air exercise, they would soon become the most health-
ful and robust, as they are now the most beautiful women in the world.

Cheese is less liable to putrefactive changes than flesh, and thus
much less likely to develop in the human system those scrofulous dis-
eases attributed to animal food.

Thus, on a review, it appears evident that the casein of milk is a
highly important alimentary principle, and proves equally healthy and
invigorating, whether taken in the liquid state of milk, or in the con-
centrated form of cheese.

ITS ECOiiOMT.

Our examination of cheese, chemically, renders it evident that one
pound of cheese is as valuable for human food as two pounds of beef.
This opinion has been often expressed by writers upon food.

Prof. A. J. Bellows, in his " Philosophy of Eating," says : " Cheese
has more than twice the amount of food of any other known substance.
It must, therefore, be used in small quantities, and with such articles
as fruits, or fine flour, which contain little nitrogen." Again he says :
"Cheese which contains the concentrated nutriment of milk, is seldom
seen on our tables, while butter, which contains not a particle of food
for brain or muscle, is on every table, at all times of day."

14P

The American people, although most favorably situated for the pro-
duction ot cheese, have never learned to use it as a daily diet. A crit-
ical examination into its economy as a food leads us to inquire into the
comparative cost of its production. A good average cow will produce
400 lbs. of cheese, besides a small amount of butter, per annum. And
if we estimate one pound of this cheese equal in food value to two
pounds of beef, then it appears that an average cow will yield food equal
to 800 lbs. of beef. And the average dressed weight of well-fed beeves,
sent to New York city, is estimated at 750 lbs. each. It thus appears
that a cow will produce in human food, annually, more than a grown
bullock. Yet it takes, on the average, three and one- half to four years,
to produce the bullock making 750 lbs. of dressed beef. The cow, then
produces as much food in one year, in milk, as can be grown in flesh
in three and one-half years. Does not this demonstrate the great
economy of cheese over beef? for the extra labor in producing the cheese
during one year will only offset the labor of caring for the bullock four
years, and the cost of keeping the cow one year is not more than one-
third that of keeping the bullock four years. Let us see what would
be the aggregate of production if this were made the leading dairy por-
duct of the whole country. By the census of 1870 the number fo
milch cows is stated at 1 1,008,925. Suppose 5,000,000 cows were de-
voted to making cheese, at 400 lbs. to the cow, they would produce an
aggregate of 2,000,000,000 lbs ; and this estimate as before, would be
equivalent to 5,000,000 of bullocks averaging 800 lbs. net weight each.

Mr. L. F. Allen, in his able work on '• American Cattle," estimates
the whole number of beef cattle consumed in the United States as
5,000,000 head per annum ; and thus it appears that the cheese pro-
duct from less than half of the cows kept would equal, m food value,
these 5,000,000 beeves. He estimates these beef cattle at SGO per
head, or 8300,000,000 ; and if we estimate this supposed cheese pro-
duct at fifteen cents per pound, it will amount to the same sum.

If now, Ave examine the question of economy in reference to present
comparative prices in market, we find the retail prices of cheese in
cities to range from sixteen to twenty-two cents per pound, which is
very nearly the price of beef; thus showing cheese to be only half as
expensive as beef according to its real value. And if we compare it
with pork or mutton, or fish, we snail find it the cheapest food. There
is no waste to cheese — it is all equally valuable, while beef is one-
eighth bone. It also has the advantage of requiring no cooking, and
thus in the warm season saves the poor the expense of fire. Of all
forms of animal food it is undoubtedly most economical.

OUR UNDEVELOPED HOME MARKET.

Estimating our ordinary increase since 1870, our population is now,
in round numbers, 43,000,000. Should each inhabitant eat one-half
ounce of cheese per day, it would require 488,000,000 lbs. per year.
Yet the quantity of cheese made in the United States as per census of
1800 was only 105,875,135 lbs.; the census of 1870 returns 114.154,-
211, but this is no doubt inaccurate, and has been more correctly es-
timated at 240,000,000, and if we supi)ose the present make to be 300,-
000,000 lbs., this would give less than seven pounds per year, and only
thirty-two hundredths of an ounce per day to each of our population.

This will serve to show us how slight an increase of consumj^tion
will create an active home market for our entire production. Indeed,

150

we think the home market, during the last three years, has developed
faster than the increase of production. We anticipate that the pro-
duction of cheese will be doubled during the next ten years, but see
no cause of alarm in this prospect, for as the people become better ed-
ucated in the food value of cheese, its home consumption will more
than keep pace with its production. We expect to see the largest pro-
portional increase in the Northwestern States, as they will find it even
more profitable tlian to grow bullocks, and the cost of shipping to a
distant market is much in favor of cheese.

Another consideration, likely to influence a larger home consump-
tion of cheese, is the growing dislike in cultivated minds to the taking
of animal life to supply human food. This may be regarded as the
sentiment of eflTeminacy and weakness, but it has influenced some of
the noblest and most accomplished intellects from the earliest times.
If it be weakness, then was that noble old Greek, Pythagoras, very
weak, for it was a cardinal principle in his morals. So likewise must
we class those other great masters of ancient wisdom, Socrates, Plato,
Zeno, Epicurus, Xenophon and Plutarch. These all nourished their
bodies, and sustained their great intellects with milk and cheese, the
fruits and grains — they loathed the flesh of a dead animal. And
among those gross old Komans, we find Plautus, Virgil, Cicero, and
Pliny, celebrating the virtues of the fruits of the earth, and the milk
and cheese of their flocks and herds.

St. Matthew, according to Clement, eschewed flesh, and nourished
his gentle spirit upon vegetable and milk. Dr. Dick says: " To take
the life of any sensitive being, and to feed on its flesh, appears incom-
patible with a state of innocence."

Pope, the poet, strongly insists that all the evil passions and diseases
of the human race are attributable to their eating the flesh and blood
of animals.

Homer, three thousand years ago, did not fail to observe that the
Homolgians, those milk and vegetable eaters, were the longest-lived
and most honest of men.

Dr. Franklin testified that his clearness of mind and progress in
science were greatly aided by abstaining from animal flesh.

We do not mention these opinions to enforce a theory of our own —
it is not our theory ; but this prejudice of the most cultivated minds
against animal flesh as a food, seems to be so extensive that we may
properly take notice of it, and point out to them cheese as the most
perfect substitute. Cheese contains all the constituents of meat, as
highly organized, and in more soluble and easily assimilated condition.
One-half of the quantity of cheese usually taken of meat, will abun-
dantly nourish the system, and save all qualms of conscience to the
flesh eater.

Everything now points to a more liberal use of this most nutritious
food, and as the dairyman is stimulated to its more perfect manufac-
ture and greater production, let us hope that his best customer will
soon be — the American people.

FACTORY REPORTS FOR 1874.

As the reports of factories are valuable for the iuformatiou they con-
tain, and useful as a means of reference, for which purpose they are
often used, it is very much to be regretted that more are not sent in
to be embodied in the annual report. It is but a small task for the
officers of a factory to make up a summary of the year's operations
and forward it the Secretary, or hand it in at the convention. The
result of such little efforts Avould, in the aggregate, be of much inter-
est and use to dairymen and others. To the few who have favored us
%vith reports thanks are returned. Most of the reports of New York
factories have been copied from the Utica Hdrald. Those from Massa-
chusetts were taken from from the Neiu England Farmer.

FACTORIES IN NEW YORK.

Weeks^ Factory, Verona. — Season began April 2d, closed November
8th, 1873. Whole number of cows, 850 ; average number, perhaps
SCO; pounds of milk received, 2,674,843; which made in cured cheese
267,286 lbs.; pounds of milk required to make one of cured cheese,
10 ; average price obtained for the cheese during the season 13.524 cents
per pound ; net to patrons per 100 pounds of milk was §1.18.

G. Merry.

Merry\<i Factory, Verona. — Season began April 15th, closed Oct.
-Ust. Whole number of cows, 400 ; pounds of milk received, 1,151,310 ;
which made in cured cheese, 116,069 lbs. ; pounds of milk required to
make one of cured cheese, 9.91 ; average price obtained for the cheese
during the season, 13.42 cents per pound ; net to patron per 100
pounds of milk, 81.18. G. Mekry.

We have also a creamery here in town of 250 cows. N. W. Fitch,
Proprietor.

152

Ver7i07i Cremn Factory. — Season commenced March 24th, closed
Dec. 1st. Whole number cows, 530 ; average, perhaps, 480 ; No. lbs.
milk received, 1,737,888; No. lbs. cured cheese, 178,749; taking
9.72 lbs. milk to one of cheese ; cheese sold at an average price per lb.
of 13.36 cents ; net to patrons per 100 lbs. milk, $1,186. E. Hills.

Ferwow ajid Verona Factory, Vernon. — Season commenced April
7th, closed Nov. 7th. Whole number cows, 428 ; average, perhaps,
380; No. lbs. milk received, 1,102,721 ; No. lbs. cured cheese, 113,084;
lbs. milk to one of cheese, 9.75 ; average price obtained for cheese
12.96 cents per lb.; net value of 100 lbs. milk to patrons, 11.1514.

E. Hills.

Simpson Cheese Factory, New Hudson. — This factory received dur-
ing the season of 1873, 1,576,056 pounds of milk, from which was made
2,771 boxes, or 163,247 lbs. of cheese, which sold for $20,491.38.

Wm. SlMPSOIiT, Je.

Qlensdale Factory, Glensdale. — I send you herewith a statement of
transactions of the Grlensdale Cheese Factory for the season of 1873.
It was under the supervision of A. W. Johnson, who is an experienced
and thoroughly competent cheese maker. Amount of milk received,
1,210,653 lbs. ; amount of cured cheese sold, 125,621 lbs.; No. lbs.
of milk for one pound cured cheese, 9.63 ; average price per lb. for
cheese, 12|^c. ; average price per lb. for milk, 1.27c. ; No. of cows, 350;
No. lbs. cheese per cow, 357. Factory opened May 5th and closed
October 24th. A. G. Holmes, Salesman and Treasurer.

J. D. Ives^ Factory, Norway. — No. lbs. milk received from March
17th to Dec. 15th, 2,172,421 ; No. lbs. milk to a lb. of cured cheese,
9.61 ; No. lbs. cured cheese, 225,948 ; amount cash sales, $30,455.96 ;
Cost of making, furnishing and insurance, $3,866.61 ; amount of
dividends to patrons, $26,589.35 ; average price received per 100 lbs.
milk, 1.402 ; average net price received by patrons per 100 lbs. milk,
1.224. B. B. Mooif, Secretary.

Fulton Factory, Oppenlieim. — I herewith enclose a statement of the
proceedings of Fulton Factory for the season of 1873, situated in the
town of Oppenheim, Fulton county. This factory was under the
management of G. H. Bacon, and commenced operations March 20,
making every other day till April 15, skimming the night's milk till
May 20 ; commenced skimming the night's milk September 15, and
every other day October 20 ; three days November 9, closing Novem-
ber 24, using the milk from about 370 cows. Whole amount of milk
received, 1,115,765 lbs., making 1,923 cheese, weighing about 58 lbs.;
the whole amount of cheese manufactured, 110,838; milk to pound of

153

cheese, 10.06 : "whole amount of cheese manufactured sold for
$14,628.67 ; milk worth to patrons per pound, .0114; average price per
lb. of cheese, 13.3c. G. H. Bacon, Salesman. F. Mosher, Secretary.

SmalVs Bush Factory. — Factory opened April 2, and closed Decem-
ber 5, 1873. Whole number pounds milk, 1,082,958 ; whole number
pounds cheese, 107,523 ; number of cheese sold, 2,004 ; pounds'' of
milk for one pound of cured cheese, 10.07 ; number of sales, 20 ;
amount of cash received, $14,053.14; cost of manufacturing, 11,935.64;
cost of making, per 100 pounds, $1.75 ; apportionment to patrons,
$12,117.50; average price per pound of cheese, .1307; average weight
of each cheese, 52.65 ; average price per pound of milk, .0129. — Adam
Casler, Proprietor and Manufacturer. Chas. H. Dore, Treasurer.

Frey's Biish Factory. — The following is a report of the Frey's Bush
cheese factory for the year J 873. The cheese were made, and factory
managed by Gasharee Watts. Cheese-making commenced March 11,
and closed November 28. Highest number of cows, 415 ; pounds of
milk received, 1,463,634; pounds of cured cheese made, 145,860;
pounds of milk to one pound of cured cheese, 10 ; average worth of
milk per lb., .01293 ; total amount received from sales, $18,961.80 ;
whole number of cheese made, 2,939 ; number of sales made, 24 ; av-
erage price of cheese per lb.. 13 cents; paid G. Watts, (making and
furnishing,) per cwt, $1.75.

The following is a summary of the operations of the factory from
March 11 : The milk was delivered at the factory once in two days ;
three milkings out of four were skimmed when delivered at Victory,
until May 6. From May 6 till May 25, the milk was delivered once"a
day, and one milking skimmed when delivered. From May 25 till
September 15, the whole milk was manufactured into cheese. From
September 15 to October 23, the milk was delivered once a day, and
one milking skimmed when delivered. From October 23 to Novem-
ber 28, milk was delivered once in two days, and three milkings out of
four were skimmed when delivered. No card-milk or grinder was
used in factory. — Peter Fake, Salesman ; John J. Lambot, Secretary.

J. Boot Factory, Fort Plain. — The following is the report of the J.
Boot Cheese Factory, at Fry's Bush, for the year of 1873. The fac-
tory is managed by John A. Root. Cheese-making commenced March
18, and closed November 14,1873. Whole number of patrons, 19;
number of cows, 300 ; amount of milk received, 994,522 pounds ;
amount of cheese made, 100,865 ])ounds ; number of cheese made,
1,670; average price per pound for cheese, .1269; total amount re-
ceived for clieese, $12,803.02; pounds of milk required to make one
pound of cheese, 9.8.09.

Perry shurg Factory. — Account of milk received and cheese made at
Perrysburg factory, Cattaraugus county, N. Y,, during the season of

154

1873 : Factory opened March 25, and closed November 15. Highest
number of cows, 840; full amount of milk received, 2,126.49; full
amount of cheese made, 210,574 ; pounds of milk to one pound of
cheese, 10.0 ; amount of money received for cheese, 126,512.74.

The'cheese was sold at 17 different sales, at an average price of 12.625c.
per pound. The season's net price of milk to patrons was 1.08c.
per pound. Patrons paid $1.67 per cwt. for manufacturing. —
RoBEET McCuBBiN, Manager ; Reuben White, Salesman.

HaioUy Cheese Association. — Amount of milk received, 253,854
pounds ; amount of cured cheese sold, 25,050 pounds ; average price
per lb. for cheese, 13.63 ; net price per lb. to patrons, 11.07 ; net price
per lb. milk, .0190. Factory opened June 3, and closed October 7. —
Edward Hawley, Treasurer and Salesman.

Neiu Lo?idon Cheese Association. — The amount of milk received at the
factory was 1,400,021 pounds ; number of lbs. of cheese manufactured,
143,000. The association charges the patrons the sum of $1.70 per
hundred pounds, amounting to $2,418.61. Paid Reuben Wright for
making, $1,142.64. Average price of cheese through the season, 13
cents per pound, amounting to $18,105.26. Fifteen per cent, was di-
vided among the stockholders, leaving a balance of $91 in the treas-
urer's hands.

William Fuller Factory, Orishany. — I send you herewith, a state-
ment of transactions of the William Fuller cheese factory, at Oriskany.
It was under the supervision of Mrs. Fuller, who is an experienced
and competent cheese-maker. The factory was opened April 16, 1873,
and closed November 3.

Amount of milk received, 1,043,927 lbs. ; amount of cured cheese
sold, 102,439 lbs.; number lbs. milk for 1 lb. of cured cheese, 10.19;
average price per pound for cheese, 13.34. L. Sweet, Treasurer.

Talerg Factory. — The following is the report of the Taberg cheese
factory run by E. C. Spinning. The factory commenced May 12, and
closed November 1, 1873. Whole number of patrons 60 ; number of
cows, 500; amount of milk received, 1,124,956 pounds, amount of
cheese made, 116,397 pounds; number of cheese made, 2,033; lowest
sale, 12^0 ; highest sale, lo^c; average price per pound, 12.60c; total
amount received for cheese, $14,548,23; milk required to make one
pound of cheese, 9.74 pounds.

T. B. Allanson, Salesman and Treasurer.

Lee Centre factory. — The following is the report of the Lee Centre,
Oneida county, cheese factory, 1873: Greatest number of cows, 900 ;

155

total milk received, 2,425,744 lbs; pounds cured cheese, 250/719;
pounds milk to one pound cured cheese, 9.G7 ; number of cheese made,
3,509; highest price, 15jC.; lowest, 12:jC.; average price, IS^c; total
amount from sales, $33,206.38 ; paid Eobert McAdam for making and
furnishing, 1.55 per pound, $3,88'?.14 ; net worth of milk per gallon,
8^ lbs., 10.27c. E. F. Wextworth, Salesman and Treasurer.

Oneonta Creamery. — During the season of 1873, the Oneonta
Creamery, owned by S. Sabin & Son, used 576,453 pounds of milk, and
made 20,448 pounds of butter, and 34,784 pounds of cheese. The but-
ter brought best Orange county prices, through the season, and the
cheese an average of 10c. per pound at the railroad depot.

Aville Oreamery, Ellington. — I herewith send you my report for
1873, of the Aville Creamery, located in the town of Conewango,
Cattaraugus county, N. Y. Creamery opened April 13. and closed
November 15: Number lbs. milk received, 2,017,129; number lbs.
butter made, 530,004^; number lbs. cheese made, 167.736; number lbs.
milk make lb. of butter, 38.056 ; number lbs. milk to make lb. of
cheese, 12,025 ; amount of money received for butter, $16,301.27 ; to-
tal receipts, 838,806.02; Average price of butter per lb., .30923 ; Aver-
age price of cheese per lb., .10482 ; value of one lb. of milk, .019759 ;
net value of one lb. of milk, .014128. F. M. Biglow, Secretary.

Baton Creamery. — Factory opened April 5, and closed Nov. 15,
highest number of cows, 650 ; amount of milk received, 1.562,538 :
amount of cheese made, 130,329; amount of butter made, 26,374; full
amount of product, 15o,703 ; amount of milk to one pound of product,
9.9 ; amount of money received for cheese, $10,313.41 ; amount of
money received for butter, 66,907.39 ; full amount of money, $17,220.80 ;
l)aid by patrons for manufacturing cheese, per CAvt., S1.75; paid by
liatrons for manufacturing butter, per cwt., 3.00 ; the season's net
price of milk to patrons was 11 2-10 mills per pound. J. B. Badger,
Salesman. James McAdam, Manufacturer.

MASSACHUSETTS.

Barre, {South) Cheese Factory.— OA\\\tn\ invested, $4600: began to
make cheese, April 30; finished Nov. 8; amount of milk used, 806,-
072 lbs.; amount of cheese made, 81,237 lbs ; milk for a pound of
cheese, 9.92 lbs.; net price paid to milk contributors, per lb., 12c.; en-
tire expenses at factory per lb.,, 2 cts., 2 mills ; expenses of freight and
marketing, $588.88, or 724 cts! per hundred; amount of help employ-
ed, 2 men, 5 months, 1 man, 1 month ; mode of heating, Kalph vats
and Avood fires; size of cheese, 16 inch hoop, 6^ deep ; weight of cheese,
57 lbs.; cost of boxes, $355.85.

156

Green-field Cheese Factory. — Capital invested, 12700 ; began to make
cheese, May 15, finished Sept. 12; amount of milk used, 152,439 lbs.;
amount of cheese made, 15,169 lbs.; milk for a lb. of cheese, 9.83 lbs.;
net price paid to milk contributors per lb., lOcts; entire expenses, 3
cts., 9 mills a lb.; amount of help employed, 1 man; entire cost of help,
$341 ; mode of heating, Chas. Miller & Son's heater ; cheese kept at
factory from one to three months ; size of cheese, 15 inches in diame-
ter ; weight of cheese, 30 to 50 lbs.; no expense for freight or market-
ing, or boxes, as the cheese was sold at home.

Cliesliire Cheese Factory. — Capital invested, 13,050 ; began to make
cheese April 15, finished Dec. 6 ; amount of milk used, 294,949 lbs. ;
amout of cheese made, 99,016 lbs. ; milk for a lb. of cheese, 10 lbs. ;
net price paid to milk contributors per 100, $10.54 ; entire expenses
at factory, 2 cts. ; amount of help, one man and wife, and hired girl
half of the time ; mode of heating, sheet iron boiler ; cheese kept at
factory from one to two months ; size of cheese, 16 inches in diameter ;
wheight of cheese, 60 to 70 lbs. ; cost of boxes, 25 cts.

Hardwich Centre Cheese Factory. — Capital invested, $4,250 ; began
to make cheese in March, finished in November ; amount of milk
used, 1,689,407 lbs. ; amount of cheese made, 174,137 lbs. ; milk for a
pound of cheese, 9.644 lbs. ; net price paid to milk contributors per
pound, 12.04 cts. ; entire expenses at factory, 2.54 cts. ; amount of
help at factory, two men and one woman ; entire cost of help, $1,176.67 ;
mode of heatibg, Ralph vat ; cheese kept at factory 6 weeks ; size of
cheese, 8 by 18 inches ; weight of cheese, 63 lbs.

Worcester County {Warren.) — Capital invested, $5,200; began to
make cheese April 1, finished Aug. 12 ; amount of milk used, 798,275
lbs.; amount of cheese made, 77,349; milk for a pound of cheese,
10.32 lbs. ; net price paid to milk contributors, per lb., 12.29 cents ;
entire expenses at factory, 2:^ cts. per lb. ; expense of freight and mar-
keting, 90 cts. to a 100 lbs. ; amount of help employed, one man and
woman, and extra hand several weeks ; mode of heating, steam ; size
of cheese, 18 inch hoop ; weight of cheese, 60 to 75 lbs.

Neio Braintree Cheese Factory. — Capital invested, $7,500 ; began to
make cheese April 15, finished Nov. 14 ; amount of milk used, 1,339,922
lbs.; amount of cheese made, 130,722 lbs.; milk for a lb. of cheese,
10.25 lbs.; net price paid to milk contributors, per lb. 11 cts.; entire
expenses per lb., 1.92 cts.; expenses of freight and marketing,
$1,143.57 ; amount of help employed at factory, two men ; entire cost
of help, $801 ; mode of heating, steam; weight of cheese, large size,
G7 lbs., small size, 40 to 45 lbs. ; cost of boxes, $499.24.

157

Barre Central Cheese Factory. — Capital invested, 88,000 ; began to
make cheese April 10, finished November 15 ; amount of milk used,
1,531,437 lbs. ; amount of cheese made, 153,851 lbs.; milk for a pound
of cheese, 9.7 lbs. ; net prices paid to milk contributors, per lb,, 11.87
cts. ; entire expenses per lb., 1.9 cts. ; expenses of freight and mar-
keting, S618.52 ; amount of help employed, equal to one man 14 months,
one woman 'l^ months; entire cost of help, $1,003.15; mode of heat-
ing, Ealpli vats ; cheese kept at factory 30 to 50 days ; size of cheese,
18 inches ; weight of cheese. 40 to 75 lbs. ; cost of boxes, $540.

MICHIGAN.

Gilt Edge Cheese Factory, Livonia. — Commenced April 1, and closed
Dec. 31 ; capital invested $6,000; No. patrons, 30; No. cows, 350:
whole number pounds milk received, 1,233,641 ; w^iole number pounds
cheese made, 121,845 ; whole number cheese made, 2,360; average
weight per cheese, 51.62; No. lbs. milk for one of cheese, 10.042;
Avhole amount received for cheese, $14,683.49. I made butter from the
first of May until the close of the season from the night's milk received,
and set in the cheese vats. Quite a number of the patrons delivered
but once a day and made their own butter. Whole number pounds
milk received, 456,256 ; whole number pounds butter made, 2,705f :
cash for butter, $665.48. — D. Wildy, Maker and Proprietor; A. B,
8mith, Salesman.

CANADA.

Newburg Factory. — Mr. Robert M. Madden, of Newburg, Ontario,
furnishes the following summary of the operations of the Newburg
factory, during the season of 1873. The season was of six months'
duration, and the factory is under the management of Mr. Madden,
He receives a commission of 24^c. per pound for making and furnish-
ing everything, drawing the milk to the factory, drawing the whey to
the patrons, and delivering the cheese at the point of shipment. The
following is the record of the season: Pounds of milk received,
1,473,110; pounds of cheese made, 153,664; pounds of milk to pound
of cheese, 9.58; average price of cheese, 11 cts.: total receipts from
sales, $16,903,04.

158

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