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A HAND-BOOK

OF THE

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THE BUXTON MINERAL WATERS.

'HENRY ROB^fSON, M.D.

NOW CONSULTING
BA-ra
I SPIT

By WILLIA

FORMERLY SENIOR PHYSICIAN, AND

PHYSICIAN ScpJtHE-BUXTON BAKU CHARITY

EIGHTH EDITION:

WITH PANORAMIC VIEW OF BUXTON AND NEIGHBOURHOOD ;

A GUIDE MAP OF WALKS AND DRIVES; A MAP OF THE ENVIRONS;
ELEVATIONS AND GROUND PLANS OF THE BATHS,

WELLS, ETC. ;

Botanical 6ommentartj & Pistol Plants

BY THE LATE MISS HAWKINS ;

AN ACCOUNT OF SPORTS, AMUSEMENTS, ETC., IN BUXTON
AND THE DISTRICT (COMMUNICATED) ;

AND A DIRECTORY OF THE INHABITANTS, HOTELS, INNS, LODGING-
HOUSES, AND TRADES IN BUXTON, ETC., ETC.

BUXTON :

JOHN GUMMING BATES, “ADVERTISER” OFFICE;

W. ROBINS, DEVONSHIRE COLONNADE ; W. D. SUTTON, SPRING GARDENS.

LONDON : W. KENT & CO., PATERNOSTER ROW.

MDCCCLXXII.

PRICE 2s. M.; FREE BY POST, 2s. 10cZ.

CONTENTS.

Preface and introduction

Page.

. 3

Ancient historical records of Buxton and its Baths. — Popula-

tion returns, &e. — Eminent natives of Derbyshire 15

Physical character, Itinerary, and Archaeology of Buxton and
the Peak of Derbyshire 56

Extent and boundaries of limestone and gritstone formations.

— Climate. — The Buxton Season 150

Origin and cause of the heat of the Thermal Spring of Buxton 167

General properties of the Buxton tepid waters. — Results of suc-
cessive analyses. — Commentary on their composition, in
reference to their medicinal effects 182

The Crescent, and the ranges of bath buildings. — Estimated
flow of the tepid waters. — The natural and hot baths, douches,
wells, &c 218

Primary, secondary, and alterative effects of the Buxton tepid
waters.— Morbid conditions for the relief which they are
useful. — Circumstances which contra-indicate their use. —
Rules for the use of the batiks, and for drinking the tepid

waters

233

Analysis, character, and uses of the chalybeate water 253

The supply of gritstone water for domestic and ordinary purposes 256

History, progress, position, and usefulness of the Devonshire
Hospital and Buxton Bath Charity 259

Botanical Commentary 266

Classified List of Plants 267

Account of Sports, Amusements, &c., in Buxton and the district
(communicated)

Directory of Inhabitants, Hotels, Inns, Lodging-Houses, &c.. .
Index

286

289

309

PREFACE AND INTRODUCTION.

ppf HE want of such a work as the present has been so
g||j continually and urgently complained of, that I hope
this volume may prove to be acceptable. I have made
occasional use of my work on Buxton and its Waters. The
present handbook is, however, of a much more extensive
character ; at the same time it is not intended to answer all
the more strictly medical purposes of the older publication.
I am so much indebted to Miss Hawkins, for the excellent
botanical commentary and catalogue ; to Mr. Smithers, the
able and indefatigable agent to His Grace the Duke of
Devonshire, for valuable suggestions, and kind and efficient
assistance in every way ; and to Mr. Henry Currey, the
architect of the new baths and principal buildings, for per-
mission to use the elevations and plans ; that it is my
grateful duty to record the obligations and express my
thanks.

June, 1854.

I he additions to this work, which have been made in its
successive editions, may be left to speak of the principal
extensions and improvements which have been made in Bux-
ton fiom 1854 to the present time. Buxton has advanced
with the times, and in direct proportion to the facilities of

4

RAILWAY EXTENSIONS TO BUXTON.

access which have been afforded by railway extensions. It
might have been expected that a place mainly dependent on
the curative value of its Mineral Waters, would be especially
influenced by a readier communication with other places ;
and more particularly, when the curative value applies chiefly
to the crippling effects of rheumatism. The immediate effect
of the railway extensions to Buxton upon the class of patients,
the severity of the cases, and the distances of the localities
from which they are derived, admitted year by year to the
benefits of the Buxton Bath Charity and its Devonshire
Hospital, has exemplified the influence thus exerted on the
usefulness and prosperity of Buxton and its Waters. Degrees
of suffering and disablement, which would have rendered
the removal to Buxton, even from the adjacent towns,
difficult, hazardous, or impossible, are now found to be easily
brought to the Hospital from the more distant parts of the
kingdom. As a rule, travelling by railway seems to task
very slightly the strength or sensitiveness of invalids ; and the
roomy carriages and rapid transit lessen suffering and fatigue
to a degree that scarcely could have been anticipated.
Whether as regards the applicability of the Buxton Waters
to a more severely afflicted class of invalids than could have
previously travelled to Buxton, or their use by invalids from
more distant places than heretofore, the effect of the railways
upon their medical character and value, is probably capable
of indefinite development. This, however, by no means
embraces the whole matter in all its bearing. The upland
district of Buxton and the mountain limestone represent a
vast sanatorium, where sufferers from the atmosphere and
occupations of the larger towns, and from places of lower
elevation and damper soil, might easily seek renewal of

SANATORY VALUE OF DERBYSHIRE UPLANDS.

health and strength. Increasing railway facilities, and
increasing outward pressure from the manufacturing towns
which surround the Derbyshire uplands on all sides, must
cause the district to become more and more utilized : to be
selected as a locality in which the more delicate children may
be reared, as a fitting district for schools, as the best location
for the houses of those engaged in business in the larger
towns day by day, and to which those unable to reside at a
distance from their place of occupation, might easily resort
for rest or recreation : supplying the best of restoratives for
the weak or exhausted machinery of mind or body. With
such views and expectations, it is gratifying to know that
there are these vast and dry uplands, with millstone grit or
mountain limestone as their subsoil, at a varying elevation
from a few hundred to nearly two thousand feet, and with
an average diameter of some thirty miles ; and which must,
eventually, become the physical safeguard of the dense
populations that surround it on all sides. But, although the
two great geological formations which meet at Buxton, and
form the upland country of which Buxton is the centre, are
thus mentioned together, it must not be inferred that they
are considered to have an equal value in a sanatory point of
view.. I believe, on the contrary, that there is a value in
the air which is on the secondary limestone, and belonging
to a residence on this formation, that is peculiar to it,=and
not elsewhere obtainable. I think, that, other things being
equal, the chances of health and streugth and life are greater
on the secondary limestone than on the millstone grit;
although it may be at least as true, that these chances are’
greater on the millstone grit than on any less elevated and
ess iy formation. On the other hand, districts covered by

6

KAILWAY FACILITIES.

the primary rocks may offer situations equal or superior to
the gritstone. But the mountain limestone not only affords
a dry subsoil, hut it is thinly covered with a layer of soil
mainly composed of its own detritus, and offers neither
vegetative decay to taint, nor stagnant waters to infect its
atmosphere. The claims of Buxton to be chosen as a place
of residence or resort by others than those who seek the use
of its mineral waters, rest upon its geological position ; but
especially, as I think, on the condition, that, on at least two
of its sides, the mountain limestone supplies sites for
indefinite extension, and covers a district of country large
enough to give a special character to the atmosphere and
climate.

A great part of the Peak of Derbyshire is within easy
distance from any district of Great Britain, now that exten-
sions of the Midland and the London and North-Western
Railways are completed to Buxton. These important
constructions were opened to the public in June, 1863 ; and
they represent respectively the triumph over great engineer-
ing difficulties. Carried through the valleys of the
Derbyshire limestone, slicing and tunnelling the rocks of
this formation, to secure the directness or the gradients of
its course, the Midland Railway, from Ambergate to
Buxton, traverses some of the loveliest scenery that this
picturesque district has to offer, opening to the tourist
the woods and valleys of Alderwasley, Matlock Bath, Darley
Dale, Rowsley, Chatsworth, Haddon, Bakewell, Hassop,
Longstone, Ashford, Monsal Dale, Cressbrook, Millers Dale,.
Chee Tor, and Ashwood Dale. The railway route from
Ambergate to Buxton is 27 miles in longth. The branch
railway from Blackwell Junction to Buxton is rather more

HAILWAY FACILITIES.

7

than three miles in length. The main line of the Midland
Railway to Manchester is continued from the Blackwell
Junction at the end of Great Rocks Dale ; follows the val-
ley of Great Rocks, and reaches the valley of Chapel-en-le-
Fritli through a tunnel nearly two miles in length. With
the exception of the bare and confined route through Great
Rocks Dale, the Midland route from Blackwell Junction to
Manchester is interesting, — passing close to the town of
Chapel-en-le-Frith, and through various and fine valley
scenery at Chapel-en-le-Frith, Bugsworth, New Mills,
Marple, Guide Bridge, &c. The Buxton extension of the
London and North Western Railways forms another but less
picturesque route from Buxton to Manchester. In its short
course of nine miles from Whaley Bridge, it passes through
the beautiful valley of Chapel-en-le-Frith, and presents
commanding views through the greater part of it.

Previously to the days of extensive railway communication,
which may be dated from 1835 to 1845, or from twenty to
thirty years since, Buxton was situated on the old main line
of road between the West of Scotland, Manchester, and
London, and had been passed through daily by mail and
stage coaches, carriers’ wagons, &c., enjoying the full
advantage of being on one of the greatest thoroughfares of
the kingdom. At the time in question, the London and
Glasgow mail coach passed through Buxton daily, to and fro ;
there were two well-known coaches, “ the Bruce ” and “ the
PevenI,” between Manchester and London, passing to and
horn, every day ; and also two daily coaches between Man-
chester and Nottingham, “the Lord Nelson” and “the Lady
Nelson.” These coaches were appointed in the best manner,
were drawn by the best horses, and were timed to travel at

RAILWAY FACILITIES AND DETOURS.

from eight to ten miles an hour. There was also a con-
siderable number of small carriers to and from the neigh-
bouring towns, Ashbourne, Derby, Bakewell, Chesterfield,
Sheffield, Macclesfield, Manchester, &c. ; and there were
extensive carriers, whose large wagons and teams passed
along this great commercial highway. Buxton had thus
immemorially a directness and facility of communi-
cation with other places, much greater than was due to its
own relative importance. The effect of the introduction of
the railway system was to place Buxton at much disad-
vantage in this respect, during many years. It was not
until 1863, or until virtually after a lapse of a quarter of a
century, that Buxton became in any adequate degree
restored to its due level of easy communication with other
places ; and, even now, so far from being placed at the
comparative advantage which it had originally enjoyed, it
suffers much from difficulty of access in any but the two
directions traversed by the existing railways. In order to
reach Ashbourne, or Leek, or Macclesfield, or Congleton, or
Castleton, or Sheffield, or the intervening or more distant
districts in the directions of those towns, large circuits have
to be made, and so much increased mileage has to be
travelled over. But time which has seen and done so much
will see and do more. After having been dragged round a
circuit of some fifty miles, in order to reach a railway route
to London, the traveller now, strange to say, proceeds by a
railway which follows almost exactly the old highway route
to the Metropolis; and so, after making detours of some
fifty miles in the different instances, in order to reach
Sheffield, or the Potteries, or Birmingham, or Lichfield, he
will, by and by, be again taken by the same routes that were

ADVANTAGES OF KAILWAY COMMUNICATION.

9

followed by the Pack-horses or rude vehicles of bygone ages,
to the great manufacturing centres of iron and coal, cutlery,
pottery, and hardware. A new branch of the London and
North Western Railway may probably hereafter open to
Buxton the districts ot Peak Forest, Castleton, Edale, Hope,
Ashopton, Hathersage, Sheffield, and the adjoining districts
of the West Riding of Yorkshire; and a new railway to
Leek will also, by and by, it is hoped, equally open, or re-
open, the ready communication into the Pottery districts
and the great Birmingham districts beyond them. And the
Midland Railway is about to connect Buxton with Sheffield
much more nearly by a line from Hassop, which will by so
much facilitate the communication with the West and East
Ridings of Yorkshire.

In the meantime, thinking of the years between 1836 and
1863, the Buxton district has already a large amount of
valuable railway communication for which to be thankful.
It is already placed within easy railway reach from Liverpool
and Manchester, and the whole intervening districts, and
also from Ireland, Wales, and Cheshire, the West of
Scotland, Cumberland, and the Lake district, on the one
side ; and, on the other side, within easy reach from London,
via Bedford, Wellingboro’, Leicester, Hitchin, Derby,
Ambergate, Matlock, Rowsley, and Bake well. As has been
said, the Midland Railway system now connects Buxton with
Chapel-en-le-Frith, New Mills, Glossop and Manchester ;
and the same system now connects Buxton still more imme-
diately with the Capital. Even as it is, Buxton is within a
five hours’ journey from London; Derby is reached in less
than an hour and a quarter ; Nottingham in two hours ;
Bristol in seven hours ; Cheltenham in five and a half hours ,-

10

TOUKISTS’ TICKETS.

Norwich in eight and a half hours ; Peterboro’ in fire hours ;
Birmingham in four hours ; and so forth, by the Midland
Railway ; and, by both the London and North Western and
Midland Railways, Buxton is placed at little more than one
hour’s distance from Manchester, and little more than two
and a half hours’ distance from Liverpool. With easier
gradients, and under the pressure of competition, and with
shorter routes in some instances, the facilities will be in-
creased, and the time shortened, to a degree that will be
probably important.

There are two railway stations at Buxton, belonging
respectively to the London and North Western and the
Midland Company. They are unfortunately separated by a
roadway from one another ; and, there can be no question
that, in the interest of the Companies, and for the reasonable
accommodation of the public, the roadway between the
stations should be roofed over, so that the passage of
passengers from one station to the other might be accom-
plished without exposure to the weather. In all other
respects, the stations are quite equal to the wants of the
public. The platforms are extensive, and well lighted and
protected ; the offices and waiting rooms leaving nothing to
be desired.

An interesting feature in the railway management, as
regards the interests of Buxton and its visitors, is the issue
of what are called “ tourists’ tickets,” which provide for the
double journey, from almost every part of England, Scotland,
and Ireland, and back again, at little more than the charge
for the single journey, with permission to remain in Buxton
during any shorter time than four weeks without extra
charge, and beyond four weeks at a moderate extra per

SUMMARY OF RAILWAY ITINERARIES. 11

centage. Facilities are, moreover, given, in the instance of
families, to enable one ot the members to return home as
frequently during the month as may be desirable, on very
moderate charges. A drawback to this judicious liberality
on the pai’t of the Eailway Companies, is that it is limited
to the time of year, from June to October, inclusive. If the
privilege were extended throughout the year, it would be
eventually as much to the advantage of the Railway
Companies, as it would be obviously advantageous to Buxton
and its visitors. Such an unrestricted arrangement has
been long in operation in regard to the “ Lake District,”
and it is to be supposed with advantage to all the parties
concerned. Why should it not be extended to the Buxton
district ?

The railway facilities are of great value to all visitors and
tourists, as affording ready access to many of the most
interesting places in the locality. A return ticket to the
Miller’s Dale station gives easy access to Millers Dale,
Chee Dale, Chee Tor, and even to Tideswell ; a ticket to
Monsal Dale station makes it easy to explore Monsal Dale
and Cressbrook ; a ticket to Longstone station brings within
easy access all the hills, valleys, &c., in that vicinity ; a ticket
to Hassop places the traveller within easy distance from
Chatsworth, and at no great distance from Eyam, Stony-
Middleton, and Baslow ; a ticket to Bakewell enables the
bearer to see Bakewell, the Yale of Haddon, Haddon Hall,
the scenery of the river and valley of the Lathkil, Youl-
greave, and the most interesting archaeological collection
of the late Mr. Bateman, at Lomberdale House, near
Youlgreave ; a ticket to Rowsley places the bearer near to
the opening scenery of Darley Dale, the extensive grounds of

12

SUMMARY OF RAILWAY ITINERARIES.

Sii Joseph Whitworth, not far from the South Eastern boundary
of Chats worth Park, and at the point of junction between
the river Derwent and the Wye ; a ticket to Darley Dale
takes the bearer close to the church, with its old yew tree of
immemorial distinction; a ticket to Matlock Bath gives
ready access to Matlock with its river, and rocks, and heights,
and interesting Via Gellia, and other walks and drives, with
Willersley and its grounds, &c. Even Derby, with all its
points of interest ; — Chesterfield, with its crooked church-
spire, collieries, iron works, &c. Sheffield, with its vast
founderies, steel works, and cutlery manufacture, are all
within easy accessibility during an ordinary summer day •
and the same may be said in regard to the more important
of the houses, gardens, and parks in the neighbourhood of
Derby, — those of Lord Vernon at Sudbury, of Lord Scarsdale
at Kedleston, and of the Earl of Harrington at Elvaston
the old manorial ruin of South Wingfield, near the Wingfield
Station, between Ainbergate and Chesterfield ; Hardwick
Hall, a beautiful Elizabethan house, belonging to the Duke
of Devonshire, between Chesterfield and Mansfield, and near
to the finely situated castle of Bolsover, belonging to the
Duke of Portland. The London and North Western
Railway does not reach Buxton through a country of similar
character to that opened to it by the Midland Railway ; but
it is of no small advantage to be able to reach, at little cost
of time or money, Chester or Liverpool, Manchester or
Stockport, or Whaley Bridge with the Roosdych close to it,
or to see, from the Dislev Station, Lyme and its mansion
and park.

By the combined assistance of a carriage and the Railways,
Leek and Alton Towers and Alton Woods, — Macclesfield,

SUMMARY OF ITINERARIES. 1&

Trentham Hall, Stoke and the Pottery district, — Chapel-en-
le-Frith and Glossop, Castleton, Edale, and the Yale of
Hope, — Chelmerton, Arbor Low, Monyash, the valley of the
Lathkil and Youlgreave, — are so many available objects of
interest which may be seen without difficulty during a long
day. But, to see the whole of this most interesting district
to the best advantage, Worksop, Ashopton, Matlock, Buxton,
and Ilam, might be wisely made so many points of depart ure ;
any one of which might be made the pleasant place of
sojourn during as many days as time and circumstances
would justify. Thus, from Worksop might be seen the
extensive association of parks and park lands locally known
as the Dukeries, containing the finest remains of the great
Sherwood Forest, including of course Clumber, and Welbeck,
and Thoresby ; while from the same point Nottingham and
Mansfield, Hardwick and Newstead Abbey, might be readily
seen; from Ashopton, all the High Peak district, more-
strictly so called, would he easily reached, including1
Castleton, Hope, Hathersage, Edale, and the Woodlands,
containing some of the grandest scenery of the Derbyshire
Moorlands ; while Matlock and Buxton would supply
convenient centres for seeing different parts of the Scarsdale-
and High Peak districts ; and Ilam is at one end of Dove
Dale, from which Dove Dale, Ilam Hall, Ashbourne, Alton
Towers, Tissington, Winster, the Kowtor Bocks, and Arbor
Low might be conveniently seen.

The details of much that has been indicated are given in
the subsequent pages. Few districts are more rich in
materials for geological and botanical investigation, in varied
scenes of archaeological and historical interest, in singular
and various beauties of scenery. Whether to the traveller-

14

SUMMARY OF ITINERARIES.

by railway or by road, or to the pedestrian who is at an
infinite advantage above the others, there is no part of the
High Peak valleys or uplands that has not its strong point
of interest, or peculiar claim to consideration. Every mile,
every turn of road, every ascent and descent, has its charm,
or lends its variety. A pedestrian expedition alone can do
justice to such a field; and the practised eye and hand of
the geologist and botanist, the quickened senses of the
scholar, historian, and antiquarian, and the educated eye of
the artist, would be needful to exhaust the opportunities
presented by such a tour through the Peak of Derbyshire.
The grey rocks, the dark or richly tinted moorlands, the
extensive uplands, the stream-channelled gorges, the lime-
stone caverns, the untouched or traceable antiquities, and
the historical associations, give the stamp of single or mul-
tiplied interest to every place. The valley and river scenery
of the Dove, the Derwent, the Wye, the Lathkil, the Goyt,
the Dane, and the Manifold, — the hills and valleys of Glossop,
Hathersage, Stony Middleton, Eyam, Peak Forest, Flash,
Longnor, and Darley,— the rocks and caverns of Castleton,
Matlock, and Ludchurch, — are only some of the indexes to
extensive detail.

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^ Altwn?|

A HAND-BOOK

TO THE

PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE,

AND TO THE

USE OF THE BUXTON MINERAL
WATERS.

CHAPTER I.

ANCIENT HISTORICAL RECORDS OF BUXTON AND ITS BATHS.
POPULATION RETURNS, ETC. — EMINENT NATIVES OF
DERBYSHIRE.

UXTON is situated on the western side of the
north part of the county of Derby, in a tract of
elevated, uneven, and hilly moorland, called, therefore, the
Sigh Peake, or the Peake Sundred.

The Peake is about fourteen or sixteen miles broad from
the south-west to the north-east side ; its whole length, from
the north-west to the south-east, may be twenty miles ; and
it is supposed to contain one -fourth part of the whole county,
or 170,000 acres.

16

THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE.

“ This region of high land is the southern extremity of
the ridge or chain of mountains and hills, that extends from
the Cheviot Hills, in Scotland, nearly through the middle of
the island, and terminates in the north part of Derbyshire.
As this range of eminent land runs through the middle of
the north of England, as the Apennine does through Italy,
it has been called the English Apennine.

“The British Apennine may be reckoned, for the sake of
forming a general conception of it, from fifteen to twenty
miles broad. Near Scotland, it is much broader ; and as the
island to tne north of Derbyshire contracts itself considerably
in bieadth, this tract of high lands bears no small proportion
to the breadth of the north part of England.

The whole length of this ridge of land appears to be
about a hundred and forty miles.”

The above is a quotation from a large work, in two octavo
volumes, by Dr. Pearson, an eminent physician and chemist
of the time, and published in 1784 JBut the upland country,
on which Buxton is situated, must have much larger dimen-
sions assigned to it. From Ashbourne, on the south, at a
distance of twenty miles, to beyond Glossop, on the north, at
a distance of seventeen miles, (Buxton being placed almost
centrally, in reference to these boundaries,) the hill eouutry
rises from the lower districts of Derbyshire and Staffordshire,
on the one side, and of Lancashire and Cheshire, on the other.
Arising, again, from Staffordshire and Cheshire, on the west,
to the east of the towns of Leek, Cougleton, and Macclesfield,
at a distance of about twelve miles from Buxton, the upland
'Country extends eastward into Yorkshire, stretching at length
■into Scotland. The upland district, which is virtually the
Peak district, and almost in the centre of which Buxton is

HISTORY OF THE BUXTON BATHS.

17

placed, may be said to have a diameter of between thirty and
forty miles, in all directions. Presenting' a varying elevation,
from a few hundreds to nearly two thousand feet higher than
the level of the sea, — and nearly the whole of this great
surface of country being divided, and almost in equal propor-
tions, between the formation of millstone grit and that of
secondary limestone, — the scenery is characterised by large
outlines, massive boldness, and great variety ; the mountain
masses, sloping hill-sides, broad basin-like valleys, and moor-
land summits of the gritstone, contrasting with, and varying,
the more abrupt and fantastic grandeur, the summits of bare
and rugged rock, and sharp outlines, and the narrow and
rocky valleys of the mountain limestone. Overlooking the
lower districts around it, in all directions, and offering
numberless pictures of more confined character, in its own
valleys, shut in by its own hills, — many of these scenes,
however, having an extent of many miles, —this great
upland region is deservedly considered to be one of the most
picturesque and beautiful districts in Great Brittain.

According to the statement of Messrs. Lysons, in their
History of Derbyshire, the word Buxton was written Bawke-
stanes, in the time of King Henry the III. ; and they add,
“ it seems probable that it was originally written JBaclestanes,
deriving its name from its stone baths.”

Dr. Short, in his “History of Mineral Waters,” presented
and dedicated to the Eoyal Society, and published in 1734,
states that, “ without all dispute,” the Buxton Baths must
have been well-known to the Romans. It seems that, in 1709,
Sir Thomas Delves, of Cheshire, in memory of having been
cured by these waters, caused an arch to be erected over one
of the springs, “ twelve feet long, and twelve feet broad, set

18

ANCIENT WELLS AND BATHS AT BUXTON.

round with stone seats on the inside and “ in the middle
of this dome, the water sprung up in a stone basin, two feet
square above.” In preparing the site for this erection, which
in its turn had to be removed when extensive buildings were
erected, in 1780 — 1784, “ an ancient Koman brick wall, about
St. Ann’s Well,” had to be removed. “ In 1698, when Mr.
White, then of Buxton Hall, was driving up a level to the
Bath, fifty yards east of St. Ann’s Well, and fourteen yards
north of Bingham Spring, the workmen found, buried under
the grass and corn-mould, sheets of lead, spread upon great
beams of timber, about four yards square, with broken ledges
round about, which had been a leaden cistern, and not unlikely
that of the Romans, or some other ancient batb, which had
beeu supplied with water from Bingham Well. Thirdly, the
Roman highway from Burgh (Brough), a small village twelve
miles east to Buxton, a great part whereof remains entire to
this day, reaches within half a mile of Buxton Hall ; and not
improbably it took a turn from Brough to Castleton, two
miles north-west : for, above this, on the top of Maniton, is
remaining a very beautiful and strong camp. All for two
miles below, is a fortified station, four square ; the town, a
garrison; and the castle above it, a fort, armoury, oi watch-
tower, to answer the camp. Fourthly, that it was of gieau
repute in the darkest distant times is undeniable, from the
chapel here dedicated to St. Ann, whose foundation was
likewise discovered,, and a large piece of its wall dug up, in
driving the aforesaid level.”

Dr. Leigh, who seems to have died about 1671, and who
was one of the numerous writers on the subject of the Buxton
waters, says, that, in his time, a wall was to be seen near St.
Ann’s Well, which he believes to have been of Roman erection.

ANCIENT WELIS AND BATHS AT BUXTON. 19

He describes it as cemented with plaster, red and hard as
brick, but very different from anything at that time in
common use, having more the resemblance of some kind of
tile than of any other substance. The ruins of an ancient
bath, too, he says, were then visible, composed of matters
similar to the wall, and so perfect in every part as to present
to an observer every one of its dimensions. Mr. Pilkington,
in a work published in 1781, observes, that, “ when the
foundations of the Crescent were dug, the shape and dimen-
sions of this bath (speaking of one mentioned in Bishop
Gibson’s edition of ‘ Camden’s Brittannia,’ as visible near
St. Ann’s Well) might be very easily discerned. Its form
was that of an oblong square : it measured thirty feet from
east to west, and fifteen feet from north to south. The spring
was at the west end of the bath ; and at the east end there
had evidently been a flood-gate for letting out the water.
The wall was built of limestone, and appeared to be of rude
workmanship. On the outside, it was covered with a strong
cement, supposed to have been for the purpose of preventing
cold water from mixing with the warm spring supplying the
bath. The floor was formed of plaster, and appeared to have
been uninjured by time. On the top of the walls were laid
strong oak beams, which were firmly connected together at
the four corners ; and the bath had the appearance of having
been exposed to the air.”

Dr. Jones, who published a work entitled, “ The Benefit of
the Ancient Baths of Buckstones,” in 1572, says : “ Joyning
to the chief spring, between the river and the bath, is a very
goodlj house, four-square, four stories high, so well compact
with houses and offices underneath, and above, and round

about, with a great chamber, and other goodly lodgings to

c

20

ANCIENT KOADS AT BUXTON.

the number of thirty, that it is, and will be, a beauty to
behold, and very notable for the right honourable and
worshipful that shall need to repair thither, as also for
others ; yea, and the poor shall have lodgings and beds hard
by, for their uses only. The baths, also, are bravely beautified
with seats round about, and defended from the ambient air,
and chimneys, for fire, to air your garments, in the bath
side, and other necessaries most decent. And truly, I
suppose, that if it were for the sick, a sanctuary, during
their abode there, for all causes, — saving sacrilege, treason,
murther, burglary, and robbing by the highway-side, with
also a license for the sick to eat flesh at all times, and a
Friday market, weekly, and two fairs, yearly — it should be,
to the posterities, not only commodious, but also, to the
Prince, great renown and gain.”

Such are some, out of many, of the curious and not
uninteresting accounts of Buxton iu its more ancient days.
There seems to be every probability that, at least, two of
the great ancient roads met at Buxton. One of these has
already been noticed in the quotation from Dr. Short’s
important work — between Brough, or Burgh, a Roman
station near Hope, and Buxton. This road was traced by Mr.
Pegge, in the year 1779. It seems to have extended from
Buxton and Brough, to York and Aldborough. The part
between Buxton and Brough is still called Batham Gate.
Another of these great roads extended from Manchester to
Buxton, and thence southward, under the names, in different
parts, of High-street, Street Fields, Street Lane, Old Gate,
&c. The parts of this road, which are still noticeable, extend
from Bollington, about thirteen miles from Buxton ; cross
the higher grounds, by Pym’s Chair, and descend thence to

ANCIENT BOADS AT BIJXTON.

21

the Valley of the Goyt ; being' continued as far as Goyt’s
Bridge, within three miles from Buxton. The road may
have been continued up the valley, by the side of the Kiver
Goyt, to Goyt’s Clough; or, more probably, was carried
across the river, and up the opposite hill-side, near to, or on
the site of, the existing Goyt’s Lane. Immediately to the
south of Buxton, this road is again noticeable near to Cote-
heath, close to the high road to Ashbourne ; and again,
about five miles from Buxton, near the “ Duke of York ”
public-house, on the same side of the same road.

In the year 1862, an ancient inscribed stone was discovered
close to Upper Buxton. It is supposed to be part of a
Homan milestone; and although most of the inscription is
so far defaced as to render its complete decipherment a
matter of infereuce and question, enough remains to mark
the distance between Buxton and some place, perhaps the
Roman Station Brough, as xi. or xii. miles. Mr. Jewitt, in
the Reliquary, expresses his belief that no fewer than seven
ancient roads diverged from the important and central station
of Buxton. These roads were usually made in straight lines,
from one station to another, with little regard to natural
obstacles. The solidity of the construction was fully equal
to the boldness of the design ; and many of the roads formed
by the Romans have actually borne a traffic of nearly two
thousand years, without material injury. The Roman
engineers were painstaking and particular in securing a firm
foundation for the work; which was done, when necessary,
by covering the ground with small stones, fragments of brick
&c. ; over this preparation, a pavement of large stones was
often firmly set in cement, the stones being fitted to one
another more or less carefully. Even when the substratum

22

ANCIENT EOADS AT BUXTON.

has been washed away, such a road-surface has been found
to be firm and unaffected. The extensive trade with the
mining district of Derbyshire, no doubt gave early import-
ance to means of communication with it ; and it would seem
that the Britons had made a road called the Rykneld, which
traversed the county of Derby from its Staffordshire to its
Yorkshire boundary. This road seems to have been repaired
by the Romans. It enters Derbyshire near to Williugton,
over Monk’s Bridge, between Burton-on-Trent and Tutbury,
on the Southern border of the county, and pursuing a north-
easterly route, passes near Little Over, and to the west of
Derby, Breadsall, Morley, Horley, Ripley, South Wing-
field, Clay Cross, North Wingfield, Chesterfield, and Staveley,
The great North Derbyshire Roman road already referred to,
as having traversed the Peak district from Manchester and
Bollington, by Pym’s Chair and Errwood, to Buxton, and
thence by Foxlow, Brierlow, and the Duke of York Inn,
Newhaven, Brassington, Mugginton, and Duffield, probably
joined the great Rykneld road near Breadsall. This road
would be the main channel of traffic for North Derbyshire,
as the Rykneld was for the southern and eastern parts of
the county, and would be supplemented by the important
road from Buxton to Brough, by Fairfield and Bradwell, which
was probably extended from Buxton on the south-west to
Cong'leton and Middlewich. The difference in degree of
relative importance of different parts of Derbyshire in the
ancient and modern times, is curiously indicated by the
position of the ancient Rykneld and of the Roman road
through North Derbyshire. The whole of the districts, now
so important, which lie between these main roads, may be
supposed to have been in those days wild forest, little

ANCIENT EOABS AT BUXTON.

23

traversed, and almost unpeopled ; the drier uplands, with
their woods and their mines, being then the more important
and more populous districts. There would seem to have
been, moreover, an ancient road from Melandra Castle, near
Glossop, to Chapel-en-le- Frith and Buxton ; and there may-
have been also an ancient road from Buxton to Macclesfield,
and thence to Deva (Chester) ; and also an ancient road from
Buxton to Leek, and thence to Mediolanum (Chesterton,
near Newcastle, in Staffordshire).

Whether these roads were originally constructed ex-
clusively for military purposes, for effecting the conquest,
■or more complete subjugation, of the people of the country,
— or whether they may have only been the means of
communication between important places,— it seems to be
evident that they would bring into notice, if they were not
constructed for the convenience of, the places through which
they might pass ; and the Buxton waters, with their elevated
temperature, large flow, and medicinal value, would acquire
repute at very remote periods of time. That, at periods so
remote from our own, large baths should have been con-
structed of such a durable and costly character as a framework
of wooden beams, lined with lead, is one instance ; and, in
another, of masonry, floored with concrete, and most carefully
protected outside with thick and strong cement, (even
although these structures may have been uncovered and
exposed to the open air,) cannot fail to astonish us. Now
that modern roads and modern railways have served to bring
distant places so much more within reach of one another, the
Peak of Derbyshire is still sometimes thought to be too
remote from the southern parts of England ; and it may
well be thought wonderful that sufficient numbers of people

24

BUXTOH TEMP. QUEEH ELIZABETH.

should have made the pilgrimage to Buxton, in those early
times, in search of health from the use of its waters, to have
led to the formation of such baths as these. Even now, in
the baths which have been re-constructed, and so much
extended, the largest of them is twenty-six feet long and
eighteen feet wide ; and we find the measurement of one of
these old baths, probably tbe work of the Romans, to have
been thirty feet long, by fifteen feet wide. The bath of lead
and oak seems to have been of older date than this, and, at
least, twelve feet square : and either will tell a tale full of
import as to the enterprising spirit of a time so distant from
our own, as to the estimation in which the Buxton waters
were then held, and as to the still more ancient period at
which they must have begun to be famous for their medicinal
qualities.

In the midst of all this activity of hand, and skilled labour,
there was no printing press, and there were few scribes ; the
affairs of remote provinces had no historians ; traditions and
public report were the histories and newspapers of the age ;
and, but for accidental discoveries of such magnitude, the
ancient use of the Buxton waters and their ancient fame
would have been unknown to us. And, even down to the
age of Queen Elizabeth, there is no history of Buxton, nor
account of its waters ; although the reputation of their
curative efficacy had become so considerable, that the accom-
modations of the place were no longer equal to the wants
and demands of the people resorting to it ; and a large
building was, in consequence, erected by the Earl of Shrews-
bury— at that time the principal proprietor of Buxton and
the estates adjoining. This building, so quaintly described
by Dr. Jones, in the quotation already given, must have

BUXTON TEMP. QUEEN ELIZABETH. 25

been regarded as a fine and imposing edifice, even in that
less ancient time. It supplied accommodation to some of
the principal personages of that age, who visited Buxton for
the use of its waters.

Mary, Queen of Scotland, visited Buxton at least four
different times, while in the custody of the Earl of Shrews-
bury. These visits must have occurred between the years
1570 and 1583, inclusive. There is a curious account of the
circumstances leading to, and connected with, these visits,
in Lodge’s “ Illustrations of British History.” From this
authority we likewise learn, that the Buxton waters were
used for the relief of their ailments, by two of the greatest
men of those times,— viz., the Earl of Leicester and Lord
Burleigh. Miss Strickland’s edition of the “ Letters of Mary
Queen of Scots, and Documents connected with her Personal
History,” may also be referred to. One of the visits of the
great Lord Burleigh is noticed in one of these letters. This
visit took place at the time when Queen Elizabeth was
sojourning at Kenilworth. In a letter, dated Buxton, August
10th, 1579, Queen Mary mentions the benefit which she had
derived from the use of the baths, in relieving a severe pain
in the side. The Queen’s last visit to Buxton seems to have
been in the year 1583. When the statements contained in
these letters are considered, as to the condition of the places
in which the poor Queen was confined, — the extremely damp
state of the grounds, and buildings, and even of the apart-
ments, at Tutbury, which this royal lady was made to occupy,
affording even an inadequate shelter from the weather, — it
seems to be probable that her ailments were of rheumatic
character ; and, for the relief of such, the use of the baths
and waters at Buxton would be of no mean value.

26 EARLY RESORT OF IMPOTENT POOR.

The Queen is said to have scratched on a pane of glass, in
a window of the room she occupied, the following classical
and kindly farewell : —

“ Buxtona, quse calidse celebrabere nomine lymph re,

Forte mihi posthac non adeunda, vale !”

It is stated, in “ Camden’s Britannia,” that this distich is
an adaptation to Buxton of Caesar's verses upon Feltria. The
relief afforded to Queen Mary’s case, appears to have induced
both Lord Burleigh and the Duke of Sussex to resort to
Buxton for the cure of their ailments. As Lord Burleigh
visited Buxton, at least twice, — viz., in the years 1577 and
1580, it seems to be a justifiable inference that the baths
were of use to him. The visit of the Duke of Sussex is
mentioned as having occurred in July, 1580.

It is difficult to realise the various circumstances and
position of times so remote as even those of Queen Elizabeth,
and to picture the condition of Buxton, and of the inhabitants
of the town and the adjoining hamlets, in those days. There
is, in the Chapel of the Rolls, the original record of “ A
Grant to Thomas Dakyn and the Inhabitants of the Chapelry
of Fairfield,” dated the thirty-seventh of Queen Elizabeth,
a.d. 1595, which illustrates, curiously, the state of Buxton
at that time, and contrasts very much with what obtains at
present. Fairfield is a pretty village and chapelry adjoining
to Buxton ; and it is, in the present day, much indebted to
its close proximity to Buxton for an enhanced value of its
land, and as affording a ready sale for its agricultural produce
— the village, moreover, being advantaged by affording
lodgings to some of the visitors of Buxton. In those days,
however, the people of Fairfield appear to have suffered more
from the poor frequenters of Buxton, than they gained, either

EABLY EESOET OF IMPOTENT POOE. 27

directly or indirectly, from being so near a place of such
resort ; and, accordingly, the inhabitants humbly supplicated
the Queen for a grant to support a “minister or chaplain,”
pleading, in the supplication, among other weighty reasons
justifying tbe royal bounty, that the Inhabitants aforesaid
had fallen into extreme poverty,” stating that the said poverty
was in part “by reason of the frequent access of divers poor,
sick, and impotent persons repairing to the Fountain of
Buxton, in the county aforesaid, within the neighbourhood
of the Chapel aforesaid, for whose maintenance and relief
the Inhabitants aforesaid are daily charitably moved to apply
their own goods, by which the aforesaid Inhabitants of the
Chapelry aforesaid are not only rendered unable to sustain
and maintain the Minister or Chaplain aforesaid, but also,
by reason of their poverty, the aforesaid Chapel has fallen
into great ruin and decay, and thus the Inhabitants aforesaid
will be altogether deprived of all Divine Serviee and Spiritual
Instruction, unless a speedy remedy, in this behalf, shall be
provided by us, wherefore they have humbly supplicated us,
that we, being piously inclined, should be pleased to found
and establish, within the town of Fairfield aforesaid, one
perpetual Chapel, for our Minister or Chaplain to celebrate
divine service there, for all the Inhabitants, within the
Chapelry of Fairfield aforesaid, for ever to remain.” I am
indebted for this interesting reference to the kindness of the
late Mr. Goodwin, of Pigtor ; and it furnishes a curious
picture of the times : illustrating the difficulties with which
poverty and disease must have had to contend in so much
greater a degree, when the means of travelling from remote
distances must have been most tedious and expensive, and
when the journey of a poor sick person to Buxton must

28

BUXTON TEMP. THE REFORMATION.

indeed have been a difficult and severe undertaking. It
shows, however, how much the use of these waters must
have been valued even at that remote period, when such
difficulties and severe privations had not so checked the
visits or kept down the numbers of these poor seekers after
health, but that they should have proved to be so great a
tax and burthen to the inhabitants of surrounding hamlets.
The poorest can now find means of transport ; and the visit
to Buxton is never, in these days, the weary and trving
pilgrimage which it must have been to poor sufferers in the
days of Queen Elizabeth. Two years after the grant above
mentioned, in the thirty-ninth year of the Queen’s reign,
perhaps in consequence of the supplication from the people
of Fairfield, perhaps from increasing resort to Buxton, and
further supplications, it was enacted, “ that none resorting to
Bath or Buxton Wells should beg, but should have relief
from their parishes, and a pass under the hands of two
justices of the peace, fixing the time of their return, nor
were they to beg there under pain of incurring the penalties
of that Act.”

Previous to the period of the Reformation, the medicinal
effects of the Buxton waters had been ascribed to the saintly
influence of their great patroness, St. Ann ; and the walls
of a chapel, that was dedicated to her, had been decorated,
from time immemorial, with the crutches of those cripples
who had been cured by the use of these baths, and who no
longer required them. In the earlier years of the reformed
religion, Buxton was made to suffer on account of the super-
stitious errors of its earlier patrons. Conceived to aid in
keeping up a belief in the Romish doctrine of saintly inter-
ference in human affairs, these interesting memorials of

BUXTON TEMP. THE REFORMATION.

2E>

gratitude for restored health were destroyed ; and, indeed,
so bigoted had the national feeling, or rather, perhaps, the
feeling of the dominant party, become, against everything
connected with the unpopular faith, that the waters were
for a short time prevented from being used by public
authority. The following document, in regard to this, is
too curious to be omitted. It is addressed to Lord Crom-
well by one of the agents employed by him, for the
suppression of all establishments connected with the Romish
faith : —

“Right Honourable and my inespecial Good Lord, —

“ According to my bounden duty, and the tenor of your
Lordship’s letters lately to me directed, I -have sent your
Lordship, by this bearer (my brother), Francis Bassett, the
images of St. Ann, of Buckston ; and Saint Andrew, of
Burton-upon-Trent ; which images I did take from the
places where they did stand, and brought them to my house
within forty-eight hours after the contemplation of your
said Lordship’s letters, in as sober a manner as my little and
rude will would serve me. And, for that there should be
no more idolatry and superstition there used, I did not only
deface the tabernacles and places where they did stand, but
also did take away crutches, shirts, and shifts, with wax
offered : being things that allure and entice the ignorant to
the said offering; also giving the keepers of both places
orders that no more offerings should be made in those places
till the King’s pleasure and your Lordship’s be further
known in that behalf.

“My Lord, I have locked up and sealed the baths and
wells of Buckston, that none shall enter to wash there till

30 BUXTON IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.

your Lordship’s pleasure be further known. Whereof I
beseech your good Lordship that I may be ascertained again
at your pleasure, and I shall not fail to execute your Lord-
ship’s commandments to the utmost of my little wit and
power. And, my Lord, as touching the opinion of the
people, and the fond trust they did put in those images, and
the vanity of the things, this bearer can tell your Lordship
better at large than I can write ; for he was with me at the
doing of all this, and in all places, as knoweth good Jesus,
whom ever have your Lordship in his precious keeping.

“ Written at Langley, with the rude and simple hand of
your assured and faithful orator, and as one and ever at your
commandment, next unto the King’s, to the uttermost of
his little power.

“ WILLIAM BASSETT, Knight.

“ To Lord Cromwell.”

The shutting up of the baths and wells would not appear
to have been long enforced, nor the reputation or the waters
to have been much influenced by these arbitrary and pre-
judiced proceedings. In truth, the cures which had been
effected, during so many ages, could not be set aside and
ignored ; and, as they were no longer to be considered as
attributable to saintly influence, they began to be ascribed
to the properties of the waters themselves.

The Hall, “ at that time (1572 and previously) reckoned
a fine mansion,” — a “ very goodly house, four-square, four
stories high,” — appears to have been well frequented, and
has been extensively added to from time to time. The more
important of these additions, and certainly the oldest of them,
were erected about the year 1670, by William, the third

BUXTON IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. 31

Earl of Devonshire. There is extant an engraving of the
old building, “four square,” with two rows of four windows
each on the opposite sides, at different heights, so as to con-
stitute “ the four stories high.” It was surrounded by a
high wall, evidently strong enough to resist a common attack
by robbers, or the like ; the walls of the house near the
ground being pierced by loop-holes, which might have been
used for observation, or the discharge of missiles. There
was also an observatory on the top of the house, no doubt
intended for the same purposes of defence and protection.
Some staples on which gates or doors were hung still
remain in the centre of the building ; and there are parts
of the ancient windows ; but the present west front of the
building was no doubt added in the year 1670 ; the eastern
front of the Hall has been added much more recently, and
the centre of the south front has been covered within the
memory of the present generation. This mansion, with
many alterations and very considerable additions, is still
a principal hotel in Buxton, and is still called the Hall.
Speaking of this building, and its surroundings, Dr. Short,
writing sixty years after the time of its alteration, says : —
“ Buxton Hall is situated on the south brink of the rivulet
Wye or We, from the union of three springs, a short mile
west of the house, called I, Thou, He, which, being united,
obtain the plural We. On the north side of the river is a
steep mountain, covered chiefly with heath, under which is
a black moss, or peat heath ; below that, a shale ; then clay
and coal ; and lead in some places. The surface here is very
barren ; and, therefore, return we to the south side, which,
for about two miles, is a mountain of an easy ascent. The
ground, all about the warm springs, on the south side of the

32

BUXTON IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTUET.

livei, is very dry, fruitful, and pleasant; being a tbin, warm,
fertile mould, lying upon limestone; the grass, though short,
is very sweet and fattening : hence they have the most
delicious beef and mutton. Snow lies a much shorter time
here than in the lower country.* Here is good store of
hares and foxes, several wild rabbits of the rocks, partridges,
moor game, of two sorts : one, a large black cock, weiirhinsr
five pounds a piece ; the other, a brown, and much less, tho’
more plentiful. The small river, which runs from west to
east, abounds with fine trout, grellin (grayling), crayfish,
and silver eels. A little east of St. Ann’s Well, over the
ditch or level which carries the warm water from the bath,
is made a curious natural hotbed ; and, upon the rest of this
canal, might be made the finest greenhouse in the northern
kingdoms. Mr. Taylor, of the Hall, has also taken in several
new gardens, with planting, and several curious walks. The
garden stuff has a peculiar grateful flavour. Up one pair of
stairs, in the Hall, is a beautiful dining-room, seventeen yards
long, and nineteen feet wide; seven other entertaining rooms,
eleven lodging rooms, with single beds and closets ; twenty-
nine other lodging-rooms. This one house affords sixty beds
for gentlemen and ladies, besides suitable accommodations
for their servants, and all other proper or useful offices.”

In the front of the Hall was “a pleasant warm bowling
green, planted about with large sycamore trees;” and, on
the north side of the green, was a grove of trees, which
extended on the north side of the Hall, and on the south
bank of the river: sheltering the bowling green, the Hall

* This evidently applied to the small closes of land in which the warm
springs arose, the ground in the neighbourhood of the outflows being warmed
by the water. This land is now covered by the Crescent and the buildings
and walks around it.

BUXTON IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTUKY.

33

itself, and the wells and baths, from the northerly winds.
St. Ann’s Well was situated on the east of the great bath,
and very near to it; as nearly as might be, on the spot
where the St. Ann’s Drinking Well was erected, in 1852 :
and, therefore, some yards to the west of the well removed
at that time, which was situated at the foot of the Terrace
Walks of St. Ann’s Cliff, opposite the Crescent. Close to
the river, and the grove of stately trees, at the back of the
Hall (probably near to the site of the western end of the
Crescent), were the gardens, which appear to have been, at
one time, so well managed and productive ; and, beyond, to
the south and south-east of these gardens, the valley was
divided into closes, or small fields, in which the different
wells were situated. In a work, published in the year 1646,
entitled, “A Prospect of the Most Famous Parts of the
World,” under the head “ Darbyshire,” is the following.—
“ Things of strange note are the hot water springs bursting
forth of the ground at Buxton, where, out of the rocke,
within the compasse of eight yards, nine springs arise : eight
of them warm, but the ninth very cold.” The street, called
the Spring Gardens, evidently obtains its name from the
gardens of the Hall, which were so famous in the time of
Dr. Short.

Lord Macaulay, in the first volnme of his “History of
England,” page 345, says England, however, was not,
m the seventeenth century, destitute of watering places!
The gentry of Derbyshire, and of the neighbouring counties,
repaired to Buxton, where they were crowded into low
wooden sheds, and regaled with oatcake, and with a viand
which the hosts called mutton, but which the guests stfongly
suspected to be dog. ” Lord Macaulay gives, as his authority

34

BUXTON IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.

for this statement, a “Tour in Derbyshire, by Thomas
Browne, son of Sir Thomas.” It has been seen, however,
that, from a much earlier time than that mentioned by Lord
Macaulay, Buxton was not only a watering place of much
importance and resort, but that its principal hotel was a
large and commodious house, supplied with all the comforts
and requirements that were then to be obtained anywhere ;
and, indeed, that during, at least, three centuries before the
period at which Buxton is thus stigmatised, the wants and
expectations of the public had been provided for in the
fullest manner, by an amount and excellence of house
accommodation, and bathing accommodation, that must
have been considerably in advance of most other places of
the same kind. The excellence of the mutton, so vaunted
by Dr. Short, and so well known in our own times, gives to
the stigma a still more marked ironical character.

The resort of large numbers of invalids to Buxton must
have rendered the place unequal to supply adequate house
accommodation to its visitors long before the Crescent was
finished in 1784. The Duchess of Portland derived benefit
from the Buxton Baths in 17G6, and resorted to the place
during many successive years. Mrs. Delaney, in a letter,
dated 4th September, 1766, thus writes: “I rejoice that
our amiable friend the Duchess of Portland has found so
much benefit from Buxton, and hope no perplexities will
undo what she has gained so dearly ; for, by all accounts,
Buxton is a shocking place : but the blessing of health is
worth a state of trial.” A similar account of the limited
capabilities of the place is given much more at large, m a
letter which was written from Buxton to the Honourable Mi s.
Grenville, by Mrs. Stapylton, who was born in the year 1728,.

MRS. STAPYLTON S LETTER.

35

and died in the year 1815. The letter was found, among other
papers, after Mrs. Stapylton’s decease, and was kindly given
for publication in this work, by her nephew, the late Viscount
Combermere. Itseems,from the internal evideneeofthepersons
mentioned in it, to have been written between the years 1750
and 1761, when the writer would have been from twenty-two
to thirty-three years of age. The MS. seems to be a copy of
the original that was kept by the writer ; and it is without a
date as to the year in which it was written. “ My dear
Mrs. Grenville. You are now to Receive an Account of us
from a more Intolerable Prison than We Left in Town. We
were prepar’d by what we had heard from Several People to
meet with every thing as Bad as it was Possible to Expect,
but the Place and Accommodation exceeds Imagination or
description verv Much Indeed. It is a fuller Season than
usual, which is not an advantage in any Respect, as we have
not been fortunate enough to meet with any Body we know
Little more than by Sight. The Bishop of St. Asaph &
Mrs. Drummond went away the morning after we came,
much regret’d by all They left as well as ourselves. But
our Seeing them a few hours the Night we Came was the
Greatest Comfort in the World. For they Inform’d us
Perfectly of the Manners and Customs of this delightful
Place, Recommend’d Doer. Harding as the Doctor Fanny
shou’d Consult as to the necessary Preparatives to Drinking
the Waters, &c., &c., who is a Darbyshire Man, & has been
acquaint d with this Spring above Thirty Years. He is here
at Present upon Mr. Spencer’s acct. I believe he came with
Them. I know Mrs. Spencer only by Sight, but Mrs.
Drummond very Obligingly introduc’d us to her, & her
Sister, [they expect their Brother Next Week] & Miss
r>

36

MBS. STAPYLTON’S LETTEB.

Cowley. I will tell you every Body We have besides, that I
think Naming can inform you of. Ld. chief justice Wills, a
Daughter & Son, Sr. John & Lady Ramsden, Mr. Brookes
and Lady Barker, Mr. Sutton, Mr. Gordon, Mr. Devolles,
Mr. Townshend, (brother, I believe, to the Lady that was at
Windsor, He looks as if he wou’d Die amongst us,) & Col.
Sebright. Lady Mary Coke leaves on Monday. She looks
better than when I saw her in Town. She has a great
Opinion of the Water. She has Receiv’d the most Benefit
in the time that it’s Possible for any Body. She says she
was Extremely 111 when she came ; she had a Cough, a Pain
in her side, & Good knows what besides — too many Com-
plaints for me to Recount. She went yesterday to Bakewell
where the Duchess of Norfolk was to meet her, but she was
prevent’d by a Fever she had for two or three days : not a
dangerous one as I understand. Lady Mary does not seem
the most unhappy of our house, wh. I can only account for
from the Pleasure Novelty may afford Her, for she must, I
imagine, be as much out of her Element as it is Possible,
for she has not an apparent Comfort more than all of us.
She dines at the Common Table of wh. I think you can have
no Conception unless you have heard a description of it. If
Lady Egremont ever saw it you must, & has no other Place
but the worst of Bed Rooms to spend her time in when she
wou’d be by herself. Writing for Lodgings makes Little
difference, for here are some people who have wait’d Six
Weeks & are not better off than we are, which is being
bless’ d with one Garret (it deserves No other Name) with
Three extreme Dirty Beds in it, a Broken Table, One Glass,
& Four Chairs, besides not having any Place, except the
Public Room, but this I have described to be in. The

MES. STAPYLTON S LETTEE.

37

Weather, I am told, as we have found ever since Saturday,
is always so bad you must spend more time in the House
than anywhere. Without being too Hot we Breakfast in a
very Low & not a Large Room, with a Fire, by wh. the
Maids who attend us are toasting & buttering what we are
to Eat, from which, you will judge, it must be Rather Cool
for Augt. & it Rains every Day. At Twelve o’clock we have
Prayers in the Room we dine in, which is at Two, then we
drink Tea, Play at Cards, Sup at Eight, & dance till Eleven
if you can, but it is with difficulty a set is to be made up,
for it is not approv’d of for those who Come for their health,
and there are not many here upon any other acc. The
Windows of the Room, where so much is done, are hardly
ever open’d because of the Damps and Cold, &c. It’s
impossible to Let yon know half the joys till I have the
Pleasure of telling ’em to you; but, if it answers the
Purpose of our coming, we can desire no more. Doer.
Harding gives us Great hopes. He Order’d her to Repeat
her Fifteen Grains on Sunday, & she began to drink the
Water yesterday in the most cautious way. He does not
propose to Let her Bathe these Ten Days at Least. The
Water is not Purgative — I thought it had, and it cannot, I
think, be call’d Warm Bathing— it is only not Cold. ’Tho
I said I wou d not, I went into the Bath ys morning, but
I do not propose to make a Practice of it. We are more in
the midst of mountains than in any part of Wales I have
been in, tho’ to speak fairly & honestly, less Rocky : but then
j ou may go here from mountain to mountain without having
anything Like a Prospect— not a Tree, hardly a Bush ; and,
instead of Hedges, Toad Walls as we call ’em : for here and
there we have the same, but it is Twenty miles from Ash-

38

ERECTION OE THE CRESCENT, ETC.

burnham (qy. Ashbourne) to ys Place, and there is Nothing
to be seen the whole way besides. Compts. as usual.

Augt. ye 19. I am, &c., &c.”

Additional accommodation was much required, and in
the year 1780, according to Mr. Bray, the foundations of
the great pile of building were laid, called, from its form, the
Crescent : the architect having been the celebrated Mr.
Carr, of York. This beautiful structure, which was iinished
in 1784, is still the finest crescent-shaped elevation in Eng-
land, and, probably, in Europe.

By the erection of this building, all the immediate localities
of the river, baths, wells, roads, &c., were much altered. The
high road from Manchester, which seems to have passed near
to the Hall previously, was turned, and made to pass at the
back of the large new pile of buildings. The greater part
of the grove or avenue of trees was cut down : those only
being left which surrounded the bowling green of the Hall,
and protected this piece of ground on the north, many of
which probably still remain. The river was enarched the
whole way from the Hall to some distance beyond the eastern
end of the Crescent ; and the space occupied by this arch, by
the large part of the avenue of trees that had been cut down,
and by some of the springs which had emerged near to the
south bank of the river, and by the closes of land on the
river side, between the river and a rocky mound called St.
Ann’s Cliff, was occupied by new buildings, forming the
Crescent and the Square. And, in course of time, the rocky
bank, or rounded and considerable eminence, fronting the
Crescent, and said to have been a most unsightly-looking
foreground to so palatial a structure, was forced into form
and usefulness by the taste and skill of Sir J effery Wyatville,

BUXTON SIXTY YEARS SINCE.

39

and formed into ranges of terrace walks, with intervening
grass banks, adorned with vases of form, and style, and size,
to correspond with the Crescent : the whole being made into
a foreground of pleasing and ornamental character.

The following account, containing, it may be noticed, no
complaint of the quality of house or hotel accommodation,
— such cause of complaint having been removed by the
completion of the Crescent, — is taken from a History of
Derbyshire, by the Rev. D. P. Davis, published in the year
1811 : — “Buxton lies in a hollow, surrounded by dreary hills
and extensive barren heaths; and so uninviting and cheerless
is the scenery around it, that were it not for the deserved
reputation of its mineral waters, it would never have attracted
any notice, and, perhaps, never have become the residence of
human beings. On approaching this celebrated watering
place, the country appears naked and forlorn ; and nothing
but extensive tracts of bleak, elevated moor-lands present
themselves to the eye. Long before Buxton is approached,
its site may be discovered by the singular appearance of the
hill a little beyond, whose declivity is scarred by innumerable
limestone quarries — the rubbish from which contrasts strik-
ingly with the black heath around, and produces a very
remarkable effect. Owing to the hills, which rise to a
considerable height all around, the town is not discovered
till it is almost reached : and its appearance, when the public
walks and rides are thronged with carriages, persons on
horseback, and parties of gay pedestrians, must produce a
striking effect upon a stranger, who, after travelling several
hours over moors and sterile heights, suddenly advances,
within view of this sequestered spot, rendered gay and lively
in its appearance by its stately buildings, and its showy,
dashing, temporary, inhabitants.”

40

BUXTON SIXTY YEARS SINCE.

Gradually, in addition to the pile of building formed by
the Crescent, the Hall, and the Square, a row of bouses on
the west side of St. Ann’s Cliff, called the Hall Bank, an inn
— the George, and another inn — the Grove, in addition to a
church, built at much cost by the Duke of Devonshire, the
noble owner of the baths and adjacent property — in addition
to a large range of building, erected on the rising ground on
the north, and at the back of the Crescent, for stables and
coach houses, &c., now the Devonshire Hospital — a street
came to be formed on the south bank of the river, beyond
the enarchment of the stream which is covered by the
Crescent. All these buildings, however, with no exception
of any importance but the Hall, are comparatively modern.
Buxton, more strictly so called, distinguished now-a-days
from the part of the town above mentioned, which is called
Lower Buxton, by being called Upper Buxton, — this, the old
town of Buxton, is on a level with the summit of St. Ann’s
Cliff, and has an elevation of upwards of seventy feet above
the lower and more modern part of the town. Higher
Buxton, or Upper Buxton, contains a much older and smaller
church, dissenting chapels, a spacious market place, a market
house, a cattle market, police station, the Eagle Hotel, (a
large house which has been long in repute,) and many inns,
and a great number of lodging houses.

But, for a long time after the Crescent had been built, and
after many other additions and improvements had been made,
to meet the wants of those resorting to it, chiefly for the use
of the baths, Buxton had to contend with many local disad-
vantages. The town had been situated in the midst of a
bare and barren tract of country ; there was hardly a tree
within miles of it, unless at the bottoms of the more im-

3X1X1011 SIXTY YEAES SINCE.

41

portant valleys ; the land was, for the most part, unenclosed
uncultivated, and unsheltered from the winds ; and the whole
district must have looked wild, dreary, and inhospitable.
Even within the memory of old inhabitants, there was
neither cultivation nor enclosure within twelve miles, in the
direction towards Ashbourne, unless in rare and isolated
patches ; and nearly the whole of the valley of Buxton, on
the south-west and west of the town, and within a stone’s
throw of the old bowling green and new church, was un-
touched moorland. And yet, induced by the great and well
deserved reputation of its healing waters, the invalided from
all parts had been content to visit and sojourn in this region
of wild and barren, if picturesque and mountainous beauty ;
and so great were the benefits derived, that, without most of
the usual supplementary watering place attractions, the
Buxton waters supported and added to their celebrity.

At length it was found, between fifty and sixty years ago,
that, in this mountainous and large featured district, which,
in the ancient times, had been well timbered, and formed
part of the great midland forest of England, trees would
grow, if they were planted. It had been thought, notwith-
standing the fine old hawthorn trees to be seen placed here
and there, in all sorts of situations, elevations, and exposures,
in different parts of the district, that the hawthorn would
not thrive in the locality ; and, therefore, that hedgerows
could not be substituted for stone walls, as fences for the
fields. Many hundreds of acres have been planted from that
time to this; and, accordingly, although such a country as
this ought always to be characterised by the bold and massive
grandeur of its scenery, it no longer conveys a sense of bleak
desolation, which it must have done half a century ago ; and

42

BUXTON FIFTY YEAES SINCE.

the country around Buxton is now universally allowed to
be beautiful. That Buxton should have been yearly resorted
to by thousands of invalids, under such disadvantageous
circumstances, may be accepted in confirmation of the power
of its waters, in relieving and curing disease.

These descriptions convey an all-sufficient idea of the
efforts which have been made from the beginning of the
century to the present time, to render the town and district
of Buxton worthy to be the site of the mineral waters. Mr.
Heacock was the resident agent of the Duke of Devonshire,
during nearly fifty years ; and to him Buxton and its district
owe much. Duriug Mr. Heacock’s agency, the extensive
plantations were made throughout the district, which have
done so much to clothe, embellish, and shelter the town and
valley of Buxton. During this agency, St. John’s Church
was finished ; the pile of houses, called the Square, was
erected ; the older terrace and plantation walks were formed ;
the pure water of gritstone springs was brought from a mile
to the north-west of the town for the domestic supply of
some of the principal buildings — a supply eventually extended,
during the same agency, to a large part of the town ; hot
baths, for the use of the mineral waters at a higher tem-
perature than the natural degree of warmth, were made ;
the Old Church, in Upper Buxton, was restored ; a building
was converted to the uses of the Endowed School ; a new
church was built at Fairfield ; the greater part of the street
called the Spring Gardens was built ; Gas Works were estab-
lished ; and the means and position of the Buxton Bath
Charity were greatly extended.

But much had still been left undone. A larger amount of
house accommodation had been afforded from time to time,

BUXTON IN 1851 TO 1856.

43

but below the wants of the public ; additional baths had
been made at distant Intervals of time, but even this essential
requirement was not adequately provided ; public walks and
pleasure grounds had been laid out, and planted, and
maintained in order, with a princely liberality, for the use of
the inhabitants and visitors ; but embellishment, drainage,
and extensions were still required. It was under these
circumstances that the late Mr. Smithers succeeded to the
ducal agency in the year 1851. Under the energetic advice
and superintendence of Mr. Smithers, many extensions,
additions, and improvements were made or planned : and
with a success which has been subsequently shown to have
been entire. During the five years (1851-6) the supply of
the tepid waters to the baths was considerably increased ;
both the Natural and the Hot Baths were reconstructed and
greatly extended, and provided with many accessories for
comfort and advantage ; new baths were erected for the use
of the patients of the Buxton Bath Charity ; the analyses of
the waters by Dr. Lyon Playfair were obtained ; a park of
more than a hundred acres was laid out and planted for
ornamental and building ground, from plans by Sir Joseph
Paxton ; a wooded upland with southern aspect (Corbar Hill)
the site of old gritstone quarries, was intersected by pictu-
resque walks of remarkable character; and a large public
subscription was obtained towards the cost of a Hospital for
the patients of the Buxton Bath Charity.

On the decease of Mr. Smithers, in the year 1856, the late
Mr. E. Woollett Wilmot succeeded to the Buxton agency.
In the eight years of this agency a Market Hall was
erected by a public company ; Gas Works were extended to
the out-lying districts of Fairfield, Burbage, and Cote Heath;

44

BUXTON DUEING THE LAST TWELVE YEABS.

a new Church was erected in Burbage, and two new Chapels
in Buxton ; a new Cattle Market was made by which
much occasional inconvenience to the town was got rid
of; and, much more than all besides, Buxton was placed
within the provisions of the “ Act for the Local Government
of Towns ; ” its main drainage and sewerage were
accomplished under the plans and supervision of Mr.
Rawlinson; and a local executive authority was obtained,
by which new houses and streets, roads, footpaths, &c., &c.,.
are planned or supervised. Mr. Wilmot died in the year
1864 ; since which time Mr. Drewry has held the agency for
the Buxton district. Miss Hawkins also died in the year
1864 ; to whom this work owes so much for the botanical
commentary and the classified list of the plants which grow
in the neighbourhood of Buxton. There are details as to
the drainage of Buxton, and the completeness of its sanitary
provisions, that remain to be executed. The outlet which
had been allowed to terminate in the river Wye, at little
more than half a mile from the town, and much too near to
occupied houses, has more recently been made to terminate
at this point in deposition-tanks, which are covered over,
and furnished with ventilating shafts ; the outflow being-
conveyed thence by drain-pipes, to a natural fissure in the
limestone, at a distance of a mile from the town, the overflow
alone being permitted to pass into the river. This system
may be eventually found to be capable of further improve-
ment ; but in the meantime it is an important advance upon
the previous conditions. The drainage from many of the
houses is not yet satisfactorily carried out ; and there are
still local nuisances of minor character which ought to be
abated. But surely the ventilation of the question should

BUXTON during the last twelve years. 45

be enough to direct attention, and enforce speedy execution,
as to what is vital to the best interest of Buxtou ; and the
greater and much moi’e costly conditions of which have been
already accomplished. Within the last ten years therehas been
a rapid increase in the number of lodging-houses — connecting
Buxton with Fairfield, in one direction ; with Northern End,
in another direction ; with Cote Heath, in a third ; and with
Burbage, in the fourth direction. An important Terrace
Walk has been made, which is 581 yards long. A most
suitable and valuable building, by the munificent kindness
of the late Duke of Devonshire, has been granted to the use
of the patients of the Buxton Bath Charity, under the name
of the Devonshire Hospital. The railway extensions of both
the Midland%nd the London and North-Western Railways,
were opened to Buxton, in June, 1863. In the year 1867,
not only were these railway extensions to Buxton completed,
but a new line to Manchester was opened by the Midland
Railway Company ; and a large Hotel was finished, on a
commanding and excellent site, very near to the railway
stations, by a public company, from the able plans of Mr,
Henry Currey. This, which is called the Palace Hotel,
from its size, character, capabilities and position, is well
supported, and of much public value. Many detached and
semi-detached villas, and rows of houses, in convenient and
picturesque positions, on the terraces, slopes, and various,
approaches to the town, in all directions (either recently
built or in course of erection) have added very much to the
attractiveness and capability of the place.

During the year 1871, the present and future prosperity
of Buxton have been promoted in a very important degree
by the operations of the Buxton Improvements Company,

46

THE BUXTON IMPEOVEMENTS COMPANY.

This Company was primarily instituted in order to obtain
money for the payment of the band of musicians, which had
always been important to the interests of the place, and had
been during a very long time supported at the sole cost of his
Grace the Duke of Devonshire. As the number of smaller
freeholders of Buxton increased, and the proportion of pro-
perty belonging to the Duke of Devonshire became relatively
smaller and smaller, it became less and less justifiable that
the whole of this considerable outlay should be made by the
principal owner ; and during more recent years a subscription
of £100 yearly on the part of the Duke of Devonshire had
been supplemented by donations and subscriptions from
residents and visitors. The sum required, ^nounting to
about £500, was obtained, but with an increasing difficulty.
To obviate this, it was kindly proposed on the part of the
Duke of Devonshire to convey to a Public Company twelve
acres of land, chiefly garden-grounds and plantations, from
about forty acres still left free to the use of the public as
pleasure-grounds and plantation- walks ; the conveyance being
made without charge, on the conditions that the twelve acres
should be enclosed, that the enclosure should be embellished
by landscape gardening, that a suitable building should be
provided in which the band might play in unpropitious
weather, and that the Company should pay the members of
the band from the receipts for admission to the grounds.
These conditions have been fulfilled under the able advice
and supervision of Mr. Edward Milner, in the most satis-
factory manner. A large Pavilion has been erected, in glass,
iron, and wood, with central hall, corridors, and terminal
conservatories, 120 yards in length, and of proportionate
width and height, with a terrace-promenade in front of it

THE BUXTON IMPROVEMENTS COMPANY. 47

having the same length and width, the whole facing the
south, with grassy slopes and gravel walks down to the
river Wye, which intersects the grounds. The river is
crossed by a handsome iron and stone bridge, ornamented
with flower-vases and gas-lamps. The bridge leads to a
central band-stand, from which another bridge crosses orna-
mental waters, and leads to broad walks, artistic rock- works*
an extensive croquet-ground, gardens, lawns, &c. The river
and ornamental waters are crossed by three other bridges,
and by two culverts of tasteful rock-work. The ornamental
waters are varied with two very small islands, disposed and
arranged with considerable judgment and effect ; and raised
and undulating banks and borders, with flower beds, and
rosary, and a Dutch and an American garden, give much
effective variety, and add to the apparent acreage. The
building when needful is warmed by hot water pipes, and is
brilliantly lighted with gas. The walks throughout these
grounds, which are not less than two miles in length, have
been carefully constructed and drained in the best manner j
and a succession of floral beauty at different seasons of the
year has been secured by extensive forcing pits. All these
works were executed within less than a year ; and the Com-
pany has obtained a financial success, notwithstanding the
outlay of a considerable capital, the cost of the band, the
cost of labour, and very low charges for admission. The
financial success under such circumstances supplies conclusive
proof of the prosperity of Buxton as a place of public resort ;
and these buildings and gardens supply a valuable addition
to the advantages of the town. The sheltered and warmed
promenade in ungenial weather is of evident value; the
multiplication and improved condition of the walks is an

48

POPULATION STATISTICS.

important feature of the undertaking ; and, last and by no
means least, the character of the music has been improved
to a degree at least on a par with the pecuniary prosperity
of the Company.

In addition to the details as to the more recent history of
Buxton, which have been given, the reports of the Registrar-
General furnish conclusive data as to the progress of the
place.

The ten years from 1851 to 1861, showed a great increase
in the population of the Buxton district. This district, in
the Reports of the Registrar- General, includes Buxton, Fair-
field, and Burbage, or the parochial districts of Buxton,
Fairfield, and Hartington Upper-Quarter, and contains an
area of 5,741 statute acres. The population, according to
the census taken in 1851, was 2,702; and, according to the
census of 1861, was 4,142 ; showing an increase during the
ten years of 534 per cent. As in the words of the Regis-
trar-General, the “rate of increase in the last decennium
had been 12 per cent, throughout England and Wales,” the
increase of population in the Buxton district had been nearly
4i times greater than that of the country at large. This
shows a very large and unusual amount of immigration, and
is not only of importance as evidencing an exceedingly rapid
growth, but as affecting the conclusions to he drawn from
the returns of the death-rate of the district. The immi-
grant population which thus swell the census return, and
increase so rapidly the number of the residents, are chiefly
made up of the trading and labouring classes required for
the wants of the invalids who resort to Buxton chiefly for
the use of the mineral waters, — and of masons, carpenters,
&c., employed in the erection of new houses, — and of quarry-

POPULATION STATISTICS.

49

men and others engaged in the rapidly increasing lime-
W'orks, &c., in the immediate neighbourhood— and, in
1860 to 1866, of the navvies, engaged in construct-
ing the railways, with their wives and children. The
addition of this large population, consisting in a consider-
able proportion of men engaged in laborious, exposed, and
hazardous occupations, may well be supposed to affect the
death-rate, and to disturb the inference from it as to the
relative healthiness of the district. In addition to this
element of difficulty, there is a large increase of the popu-
lation of the district from temporary residents, and more
particularly during the months of June, July, August,
September, and October ; amounting at times to not less
than 3,000 persons, probably averaging 1,000 persons during
the five months, and giving a larger or smaller addition of
such temporary residents throughout the year. These tem-
porary residents are, moreover, for the most part more or
less invalided, and include the patients of the Devonshire
Hospital. It may be impossible, under such circumstances,
to arrive at an accurate account of the death-rate of this dis-
trict ; but enough is made out to satisfy all practical purposes.
According to the annual reports of the Registrar-General
for the ten years, 1851 to 1860 inclusive, the deaths in the
district amounted to 620, or an average of 62 per year. If
the population of 1851 and that of 1860 are added together
and multiplied by 5 and divided by 10, a mean population
is obtained of 3,422 ; and the mean death-rate being 62, the
annual death-rate is nearly 18 per thousand ; and as the
death-rate for the whole kingdom was found to range from
23 to 18 per thousand, “the densest districts being still the
unhealthiest,” and the latter smaller number being only

50

POPULATION STATISTICS.

applicable to the most healthy localities, a sufficiently
favourable result is obtained. But the circumstances of the
population of the Buxton district are so extraordinary, in
regard to the immigration of residents, and in regard to the
sojourn of temporary visitors, that even this favourable
estimate does not appear to represent the actual condition ;
and it seems probable that the estimate kindly supplied by the
late Mr. Henry B. Bates, for “the Guide to the Use of the
Buxton Waters,” ot less than 17 per 1000, would be a more
accurate return of the death-rate of Buxton. Even in the
“Enumeration Abstract” of 1841, of the 1,569 inhabitants
of the “Chapelry of Buxton,” 541 persons had been born
elsewhere, or were immigrants; constituting more than
one-third of the whole population, instead of from one-twelfth
to one-fifth, as would obtain in most other rural districts ;
and the addition to the population, at the census of 1861, of
nearly five times the number that the births would account
for, confirms the estimate of the extensive immigration, and
increases the difficulty of obtaining a correct death-rate. In
the year 1863 the deaths in the Buxton district amounted to
101 ; but of these 43 have to be deducted as belonging to
temporary or recent residents, leaving 58 deaths only to
represent the mortality of the native and longer resident
population; or, the total 101 deaths may be derived from
the total probable population during a considerable part of
the year of more than 6,000, which would again leave the
probable death-rate of the district at less than 17 per 1,000.

The census returns for 1871 have been published since
these important statistics were published ; and they fully
support these satisfactory conclusions. Buxton Proper had
a resident population in 1851 of 1233 ; in 1861 the number

POPULATION STATISTICS.

51

had risen to 1875 ; and in 1871 had further increased to
2531. The population of Fairfield, for all practical purposes
a part of Buxton, had been only 574 in 1851, had increased
to 1074 in 1861, and to 2003 in 1871, or had nearly quad-
rupled in the twenty years. The population of Hartington
Upper-Quarter, also practically a part of Buxton, had been
892 in 1851, was 1190 in 1861, and 1695 in 1871. The
total population of Buxton and its outskirts, which had
been 2699 in 1851, was 4139 in 1861, and 6229 in
1871, or had more than doubled in the twenty years. The
population of the surrounding parishes or hamlets, as
Chapel-en-le-Frith, Chinley, Bugsworth and Brownside, and
Peak Forest, had either remained nearly stationary, or had
decreased during the ten or twenty years. To the numbers
which represent the resident population of the Buxton dis-
trict, as the census returns are obtained so early in the year
as to include very few other prople, must be added the cor-
respondingly progressive increase in the numbers of the
visitors, who reside in the district during a few days or a
few weeks only : a number which may vary from some very
small proportion during the middle of the winter, to more
than double the number of the whole resident population
during some parts of the months of summer and autumn.
The total deaths in the Buxton district during the three
years from October, 1868, to October, 1871, have been 379,
or a yearly death-rate of 126 and one-third. It has been
ascertained by the Registrar of the district that of these
deaths at least 105 must be deducted as those of strangers
or visitois, or recent residents, which reduces the death-rate
of the resident population to 91 and one-third. This would
show a death-rate of less than 15 per thousand. But if the

E

52

EAINFALL AT BUXTON.

average total population of residents and visitors throughout
the year could be obtained, a still lower per-ceutage would
be the result. A rapid increase of population, a rapid ex-
tension of buildings, a rapid improvement in the character
of the houses that have been built, and the more and more
efficient carrying out of the great and all-important sanitary
provisions, have been followed by the reduction of a small
death-rate to one still more favourable to the character of
the Buxton district.

The rainfall of the district is of much interest, not only
as to its climatorial character, but in a sanitary point of
view. The amount of the rainfall is regularly ascertained
at the Buxton Devonshire Hospital by Mr. E. J. Sykes, the
dispenser, who is a Fellow of the Meteorological Society,
and is furnished with instruments for all meteorological ob-
servations of the best description. As might be expected
from the one thousand feet elevation of Buxton above the
level of the sea, and from the still more elevated ranges of
hills on all sides of it, as well as from its considerable dis-
tance of not less than fifty miles from the sea both on the
east and on the west, and very much further than this on
the north and south, the rainfall of the Buxton district
during 1870 was 45 inches. The registered rainfall at
Buxton in 1867 was 65-09 inches, number of days on
which rain fell 193 ; in 1868, 66'95 inches, in 191 days ;
in 1869, 54‘6 inches, in 209 days ; and in 1870, 45'38
inches, in 189 days. This may be said to be nearly
or more than twice the amount of rain which fell during
those years in the neighbouring districts of Derby, Notting-
ham, Sheffield, Chesterfield, or Macclesfield, and considerably
more than the rainfall of Manchester ; while, on the other

MEAN TEMPERATURE AT BUXTON.

53

hand, it is not more than from two-thirds to one-third of
the rainfall of some parts of Cumberland. The comparison
of the number of days on which rain falls seems to be rather
more favourable to the Buxton district than the aggregate
rainfall would have rendered probable ; and the number of
days throughout the year in which there are many hours
without rain seems to be still more favourable to the district.
But the amount of rain which may fall yearly does not seem
to be disadvantageous to the sanitary character of any dis-
trict ; and indeed may orobablv have a favourable influence.
The wettest seasons have been often known to have been
the most healthy, both as to amount of disease and the
lowering of the death-rate throughout the kingdom. Rain
carries away impurities both from the atmosphere and from
the surface of the earth ; and in a district like Buxton,
where there are no stagnant waters to become sources of
impurity, nor amount of vegetation, nor depth nor character
of soil to produce noxious emanations, the rainfall can pro-
duce no after-results to be of any importance in a sanitary
point of view.

The mean temperature of Buxton, as registered by Mr.
Sykes, was 44| degrees, farenheit, in 1871, 44 and one-tenth
in 1870, and 46| in 1869. This result is from 3 to 4 de-
giees lower than the mean temperature of England during
the three years, and from 4 to 5 degrees below the mean
temperature of London and its environs. The effect of
temperature upon climate and upon health must be much
modified by the intensity and direction of the prevailing
winds, and also by the rainfall. The climatorial character
of Buxton cannot, however, from the results of these obser-
vations, be held to be so very different as to temperature

54

EMINENT NATIVES OF DERBYSHIRE.

from that of the metropolis as it has been heretofore sup-
posed to be.

Derbyshire has given birth to several distinguished men.
John Flamstead, the great astronomer, was born at Denby,
near Belper, and died in 1797. Samuel Richardson, the
novelist, was born at Derby, in 1689, and died in 1761.
Joseph Wright, the eminent painter, was born at Derby,
and died in 1797 ; and also William Hutton, well called the
English Franklin, successively stocking maker, bookbinder,
and bookseller, and eventually historian and poet, was born
at Derby, in 1723, and died in 1815. Anna Seward was born
at Eyam, in 1747 ; and Dr. Thomas Denman, the eminent
physician, and father of the late Lord Denman, was born at
Bakewell, and died in London, 1815; and James Brindley,
the illustrious engineer — the virtual creator of the system of
inland navigation, “ was born in a humble cottage standing
about midway between the hamlet of Great Rocks and that
of Tunstead, in the liberty of Thornsett, some three miles
to the north-east of Buxton. The house in which he was
born in the year 1716, has long since fallen to ruins : the
Brindley family having been its last occupants. The walls
stood long after the roof had fallen in, and at length the
materials were removed to build cowhouses; but, in the
middle of the ruins, there grew up a young ash tree, forcing
up one of the flags of the cottage floor. It looked so
healthy and thriving a plant that the labourer employed to
remove the stones for the purpose of forming the pathway to
the neighbouring farmhouse spared the seedling, and it grew
up into the large and flourishing tree, six feet nine inches in
girth, standing in the middle of the croft, and now known
as ‘ Brindley’s Tree.’ This ash tree is Nature’s own me-

EMINENT DENIZENS OF DERBYSHIRE.

55

morial of the birth place of the engineer, and it is the only
one as yet raised to the genius of Brindley.” — Lives of the
Engineers, hy Samuel Smiles. Sir Francis Chantrey, the
eminent sculptor, and perhaps the most distinguished
sculptor of portrait busts, in any age or country, was born
in Derbyshire, at Norton, near Sheffield, in 1782.

Of persons connected with Derbyshire by eminent or
successful lives, may be mentioned Sir Bichard Arkwright,
the great inventor of “ the Spinning Jenny,” and founder
of the cotton manufacture of Great Britain ; — Mr. Strutt,
also eminent as a great inventor of industrial machinery,
and also founder of a wealthy and distinguished family, one
of whom gave the great Arboretum to the town of Derby ;
Dr. Darwin, the author of “The Zoonomia,” also an eminent
physician; — and Sir Joseph Paxton, the creator of crystal
palaces, and renowned landscape gardener and horticulturist.
On the banks of the Derbyshire river Dove, talked and
wrote and angled Izaak Walton and his friend Charles
Cotton ; and some of the greatest of the poems of Thomas
Moore were written at Sloperton Cottage, near Ashbourne.

CHAPTER II.

PHYSICAL CHAEACTEE, ITINEEAEY, AND AECHIEOLOGY
OF BUXTON AND THE PEAK OF DEEBYSHIEE.

HE lowest pai’t of the town of Buxton is at an
elevation of one thousand feet above the level of
the sea. It is, however, surrounded on all its sides by hills
of greater elevation ; and it occupies the north-eastern ex-
tremity of an oblong basin, the bottom of which is between
two and three miles long, and about half a mile in breadth.
The surrounding hills rise from the bottom of the valley by
shelving sides, which give to the upper margin of the basin a
diameter of from four to eight miles, in different directions.
The hills which bound the valley of Buxton, rise from it with
different degrees of abruptness. On the north and north-
west, within little more than a mile from the town, to the
north-east of the road to Manchester, Black Edge, the highest
part of Comb’s Moss, has an elevation of 1670 feet. On
the west, at the distance of between two and three miles,
and to the right of the Leek road, and to the left of the roads
which branch from this road to Congleton and Macclesfield,
the highest part of the chain of hills has an elevation of
nearly 2000 feet. This is a well known and commanding
ridge, called Axe Edge. On the south, the highest part of
a chain of hilly grounds has an elevation of 1435 feet.
These are covered with what are known as the Grin Planta-
tions, and were formerly, and at their more distant extremity

VALLEY OF BUXTON.

57

are still, the site of extensive lime kilns. The nearest part
of this range of high grounds is within less than a mile from
the town. On the south-east, Chelmerton Low forms the
highest part of the range of hills. This Low, probably one
of the many stations for signal fires in ancient times in these
upland districts, has an elevation of 1474 feet. Chelmerton
Low is at a distance of five miles from the town, to the left
of the road to Ashbourne, and to the right of the road to
Bakewell. But between Chelmerton Low and Buxton, there
is a considerable elevation of high laud called Stadon.
Almost due east from Buxton, at a distance of six miles, is
the village of Taddington, with an elevation of 1122 feet.
The high grounds of the village of Fairfield, flank and rise
above the town of Buxton on the north-east ; beyond which,
at greater and greater distances, rise the higher and higher
grounds of Peak Forest, Mam Tor, and Kinderscout, These
surrounding ranges of more elevated ground, not only pro-
tect Buxton in a considerable degree from the more severe
effects of prevalent winds, bnt the more or less steep ascents
and declivities of the sides of the oblong basin represented
by the valley of Buxton, offers a great variety of scenic
beauties. Several hundreds of acres of the valley N to the
west and south-west of the town, present swells and undu-
lations of great capability, much of the land sloping gently
towards the south. These grounds have been partially turned
to much account, more particularly within the last few years.
The Buxton park occupies 120 acres of this part of the
valley ; and contiguous to the park, the principal public
terraces, pleasure grounds, gardens, and plantation walks
have been made. The higher grounds, which surround the
valley on all its sides, are for the most part crowned with

58

ELEVATIONS.

plantations, which not only serve to enrich the landscape,
but must assist greatly in tempering the severity of the
mountain winds.

The whole of the town of Buxton, as has been said, lies in
a valley, and is surrounded by hills of greater elevation than
its own level. This applies more particularly to the lower
part of Buxton, which is immediately protected on the south
by St. Ann’s cliff— now more commonly called the Crescent
Terrace Walks, and on the north by the rising grounds on
which St. John’s Church, the Devonshire Hospital, and the
house and grounds of the Buxton Palace Hotel Company are
placed. This part of the town is well sheltered inall directions.
It is more immediately protected by plantations on the west ;
and on the east by the higher grounds of Fairfield, and the
rocks which bound the valley through which the road to
Bakewell passes, close to the town. The upper part of
Buxton is much less sheltered ; the higher grounds are
situated at greater distances, and its position is by so much
one of greater exposure. There is a difference of elevation
between the carriage road in front of the Crescent and the
centre of the Market-place, amounting to 76 feet 9 inches;
and the elevation of Upper Buxton may therefore be said to
be 1080 feet, the elevation of St. John’s Church being 1029£
feet. In regard to the degree of shelter afforded to Upper
Buxton, there is, however, within less than a mile, on the
south, a range of ground which is 350 feet higher ; and at
nearly the same distance, on the east and on the north, are
grounds of as great or greater elevation. On the west, the
two miles in length of the Buxton valley intervene between
the upper part of Buxton and the higher grounds in that
direction.

ELEVATIONS ESTIMATED BY ANEEOID BAEOMETEE. 59

These several elevations, and the various elevations of the
different more important positions throughout this distiict,
have been obtained either from the excellent suiveys pub-
lished under the authority of her Majesty s Boaid of Oid-
nance, or from private surveys which have been kindly made
in reference to this work, and the accuracy of which may
be relied upon. But an approach to relative accuracy may
be obtained in a most interesting and ready manner, in
regard to any locality, whether upland or valley, by the use
of the very ingenious instrument — the Aneroid barometer.
Barometers are used to indicate the pressure of the air ; and
therefore they may be had recourse to not only as weather-
glasses, but inasmuch as they fall with the higher ground,
and rise with the lower ground — the weight of the superin-
cumbent atmosphere, by so much diminishing in the one case,
and increasing in the other — they act usefully in obtaining
the relative elevations of different places above the level of
the sea. The Aneroid barometer is sufficiently portable to
be conveniently made use of for this purpose. In using this
instrument, it is only necessary to have obtained the elevation
of any given object in a district ; as, for instance, that of St.
John’s Church, at Buxton. This is to be taken as the
standard of the comparative observations, and the index of
the Aneroid barometer is to be accurately read and noted on
any given day, when the relative elevation of any other part
of the district is wished to be ascertained. Every inch on
the index of the instrument is divided into forty spaces, and
every one of these spaces may be considered, with a sufficient
approach to accuracy to satisfy most observers, to signify
.twenty-one feet. If any of the neighbouring eminences be
then ascended, the index of the barometer will be found to

60 ELEVATIONS ESTIMATED BY ANEEOID BAEOMETEE.

fall more and more, as the higher and higher ground is
attained; and by multiplying the number of spaces thus
indicated by twenty-one, a sufficiently near approximation
may he made to the relative elevation of any part of the
district. Thus, for instance, it may he learned that there is
a range of the index of nine and a half points between the
level of the New Church and that part of the road to Man-
chester which is about three-quarters of a mile distant from
the church, a little beyond Northern, or, so called Nithen End.
Multiplied by twenty-one, a higher elevation is shown of 1991-
feet; or, if added to!0291 feet, theelevation ofthechurch above
the level of the sea, the elevation of this part of the road is
shown to be 1229 feet. Again, between the level of the
church and that of the highest part of the same road, called
the top of Long Hill, the index shows a fall of eighteen
points, which when multiplied by twenty-one, gives a higher
elevation of 378 feet, or a total elevation above the sea level
of 1408§ feet. In a district which presents so many different
elevations of country, this instrument supplies an interesting
and valuable resource to the tourist and the inquirer. It
should be remembered, however, that such an estimate,
although sufficiently near for most purposes, is only an
approximation to the truth : the attainment of absolute
accuracy by means of barometrical observations, requires
some deductions for variations of temperature, and other
influencing ciacumstanees, and necessitates a somewhat
intricate process of mathematical calculation.

Buxton is situated on the south-western edge of an
extensive formation of mountain limestone. The formation
presents the usual characteristics of the secondary limestone.
The surface of the country is remarkably undulating ;

MOUNTAIN LIMESTONE POEMATION. bi

broken in the course of the streams into bold ravines, which
are bounded by lofty and precipitous crags, having deep,,
time-worn, perpendicular fissures, with frequent horizontal
cracks, often of great length, and as straight as if foimed
by art. These cracks often extend deeply beyond the mere
surface of the rocks; and in many places, time or ait has
removed in part the upper layer or layers, and left broad
shelvings of rock, which illustrate very well this chaiactei
of the formation. In the instance of a well-known rock in
this formation, Chee Tor, the appearance is as if the upper
part of the vast mass had been carefully cut off the subjacent
layers, and accurately replaced in the same position. The
long and winding valleys of this formation, with bright
trout streams rippling and tumbling over their rocky
bottoms, — with beetling, precipitous, cleft, and time-worn
crags, of pale-grey colour, bounding their sides, — and the
mountain-ash, yew, pine, hazel, and thorn, partially clothing,
without concealing, their romantic and various ruggedness,
— while the anemone, orchis, saxifrage, forget-me-not, &c.,
embellish them with minuter features of beauty ; contrasting,
asthese valleys do so very remarkably, with the large-featured
upland scenery of this district, on which the eye wanders for
miles, until in one or two instances it almost distrusts the
evidence of its impressions, and on which the lights and
shadows of the clouds are often mapped with a curious and
exquisite distinctness, and where the distant storm or distant
sunshine may be traced at different points in a single view,
— cannot but be admitted to give a variety and character to
this locality, which can be met with in few places in this
country.

One remarkable characteristic of the mountain limestone

MOUNTAIN LIMESTONE FORMATION.

formation, is well exemplified in that of the Peak of Derby-
shire. It contains many large natural caverns. These
caverns, the more important of which are at Castleton,
Matlock, and Buxton, are entered by natural arches or
fissures, at different elevations of the sides of the hills in
which they are situated, and lead to alternate passages and
chambers, which differ much as to height, windings, and
length; the chambers being in one or two instances of
palatial size, and of noble height and proportions ; in some
cases roofed with a flat surface of rock, in others with arches
of diffeient forms and sizes. In the great Peak cavern, at
Castleton, these arches, from their height, span, proportions,
and harmony as to character and extent with the chambers
which they canopy, fill the mind with a sense of grandeur
and beauty, scarcely inferior to that produced by the interiors
of some of the cathedrals. In some instances, the constant
diipping of water from the roofs of these caverns, charged
with calcareous matter,— in others, the constant oozing and
welling of such water over large faces of the rocky sides of
the caverns, have, in process of time, formed stalactites of
great size and curious variety, or produced surfaces of crys-
talline character. In the Blue-John cavern, at Castleton,
■the crystalline surface resembles a great cascade, and pre-
sents, when well lighted up, a remarkably intricate and
beautiful variety of surfaces and reflections. It is remark-
able, and adds much to the effect of these caverns, that a
stream of water passes through the larger number of them.
Some geologists have expressed an opinion, that such streams
may, during the lapse of ages, have produced these great
excavations ; but this is not possible. It would be difficult
to infer such an amount of effect from a flow of water, that

IGNEOUS EOCKS.

63

is in general small and unimportant ; while the alternation
of vast chambers and narrow passages would render the
hypothesis untenable. And, moreover, there are chasms,
and arches, and caverns, in this formation, which show no
evidence of having been water-channelled at any time ; and,
therefore, there can be no doubt, that the whole of these
have been equally the effect of disruptions, piobably the
immediate consequences of volcanic action.

That volcanic action has been in extensive operation in
this district, at some remote period of time, is not only
shown in this way ; and not only, in having probably formed
the fissures, through which the tepid mineral waters of the
district find their way to the surface ; and not only, in the
displacements, and shatterings, and extensive disruptions of
the limestone strata; but evidence is given, that molten
rocks have, in some places, overflowed the ordinary strata, _
— thus covering, or underlying, or mixing with the limestone
which had not been acted upon by fire. Sir Henry T. de la
Beche, in his great work, “The Geological Observer,” says,
— “In Derbyshire the observer will again see igneous rocks
associated with ordinary deposits ; in this case with lime-
stone, known as the carboniferous or mountain limestone, in
such a manner, that their relative geological antiquity can be
ascertained. Careful investigation shows that in that area,
at least, and probably much beyond it (beneath a covering of
the sands, shales, and coals, known as the millstone grit and
coal measures), and after a certain amount of these lime-
stones had been accumulated, there had been an outburst
and overflow of molten rock, irregularly covering over por-
tions of them. And further, that after this partial overflow,
the limstone deposit still proceeded; probably spreading

'04

IGNEOUS EOCES.

fiom other localities, where the conditions for its accumula-
tion had continued uninterruptedly. Occasionally water
action upon the igneous products may be inferred prior to
the deposit of the calcareous beds upon them, if not also a
certain amount of decomposition of the former, the lime-
stones immediately covering them containing fragments
(some apparently water -worn), and a mingling of the sub-
jacent rock, such as might be expected if calcareous matter
had been thrown down upon the exposed and decomposed
surfaces of the igneous rock. In some parts of the district
another outflow of the same kind of igneous rock again took
place, and was again covered by limestone beds, so that in
such portions of the area, two irregularly disposed sheets of
once molten rock are included among the mass of the lime-
stone beds.” The same excellent authority adds, that, of
these igneous rocks, locally known as toadstones, “natural
sections (many of which are excellent) and mining operations
show that as regards thickness these overflows vary con-
siderably, so much so as to aid the observer in forming some
estimate of the localities whence the molten matter, when

ejected, may have been distributed around.”

In the case of Derbyshire, though there may have been a
removal of a portion of the igneous beds by the action of
water upon their exposed surfaces (and an attentive exam-
ination of the upper overflow shows a quiet adjustment of
the limestone beds formed upon it), no deposits resembling
the ash and lapilli beds above mentioned as found in Devon
and Cornwall, Wales and Ireland, have yet been detected.
There is no evidence showing an accumulation of ash and
cinders in the manner of subaerial volcanoes. It may readily
Jiave happened, therefore, that the igneous matter was

IGNEOUS BOOKS.

65

thrown out in a molten state, without anj accompaniment
of ash and cinders ; and this might have taken place as well
beneath the level of the sea as above it. These are some
of the wonderful phenomena of primeval nature ; and they
furnish an interesting illustration of the simple way in which
they may often be studied and explained. They show the
gradual and perhaps slow formation of the limestone rocks
at the bottom of the sea, and the occasional disturbances
produced by volcanic outbreaks, modified in their degree and
effects by the superincumbent ocean, which would probably
not only moderate the violence of such action, but circum-
scribe its effects ; the deposition and accumulation of the
calcareous strata being only interrupted during the time that
the volcanic outbreak might be going on, and possibly to no
very great distance beyond the immediate locality of such
outbreak. “ Upon examining the structure of the igneous
rock, it is found to be partly solid, and confusedly well
crystallised, a compound of felspar and hornblende, with
sometimes, sulphuret of iron. It is partly vesicular, in some
localities highly so : the vesicles, as usual, filled with mineral
matter of various kinds (carbonate of lime, as might be ex-
pected, being very commonly present), where the rock has
remained unaffected by atmospheric influences, but exhibiting
the original and vesicular state of the molten rock where
these have removed the foreign substances in them. In
some localities the scoriaceous character of the rock is as
striking as amid many volcanic regions of the present day.
Like more modern igneous products, also, it will often be
found decomposed in a spheroidal form. There is an ex-
ample of this decomposition at Diamond hill, on the south
side of, Millar’s dale, where the concretionary structure has

66

IGNEOUS BOOKS.

been developed somewhat on the minor scale, and the size of
the spheroidal bodies is about that of bomb-shells and
cannon-balls.” — Sir Henry T. de la Beche.

The outflow of these igneous products in the district
more immediately around Buxton, may be compared to the
tortuous meanderings of a mountain stream. These mean-
derings of toadstone extend from Fairfield to the Water
Swallows, where there is a much broader and more consider-
able outflow ; the narrower meanderings of the toadstone
continuing thence to Peak Forest, and thence to Tideswell,
Wormhill, Miller's dale, Litton, Ashford, Chelmerton, and
Buxton. The toadstone varies much in its density and
general physical character ; but it always presents the dis-
tinctive difference from the limestone, which likewise varies
much in its density, that the action of fire has deprived it
more or less entirely of the stratified character of rocks
formed by deposition. In different places and specimens,
the toadstone shows varying evidence of igneous action,
from a friable, light, and porous, lava-like tufa, to a dense,
and much more fully vitrified, and compact rock. There
are sections of toadstone on both sides of the Ashbourne
road, to the south of Upper Buxton, beyond Sherbrook ;
and on the Bakewell road, rather more than two miles from
Buxton ; and on the sides of the valley from Miller’s dale
Station to Chee dale ; and at Green Fairfield, on the Foot-
road to Wormhill, about two miles from Buxton ; and of
course in many other places.

The mountain -limestone contains a great variety of fossil
shells ; and such may be said to constitute a large proportion
of the rock and marble of which it is composed. The
common grey marble of this district, is evidently altogether

LIMESTONE FOSSILS.

67

composed of dense masses of shells ; and a dark-eolonred
marble, known as the bird’s-eye marble, is in a great degree
composed of shells. It needs no taste for geological pursuits
and but little acquaintance with the wonders, as to the
formation and early history of our globe, which geology
teaches, to make this a matter of curious interest to every
one. The limestone rocks, in all directions in the neigh-
bourhood, show, on their abrupt and craggy surfaces, dense
masses of these primeval shells ; indicating a time when
this high range of country was submerged in ocean ; and
when, as it should seem, by the agency of ‘myriads of these
marine creatures, such masses of rock were altogether or in
large degree produced. These fossil shells differ essentially
from those of the existing species; and differ from one
another as much in size and form, as the marine shells of the
existing species differ from one another. As to size, some
of the fossil shells are several inches in diameter, and others
so small as to be altogether invisible to the naked eye.
Lamarck well says “ in producing living bodies, what nature
seems to lose in size she fully regains in the number of
individuals, which she multiplies to infinity, and with a
readiness almost miraculous. The bodies of these minute
animals exert more influence on the condition of the masses
composing the earth’s surface, than those of the largest
animals, such as elephants, hippopotami, whales, &c., which,
although constituting much larger individual masses, are
infinitely less multiplied in nature.” As the coral reef,
rising in the midst of the ocean, in our times, comes at
length to emerge above the level of the waters, and to form
a new land, on which birds may alight, and alluvial soil be
formed, and to which seeds may be wafted, and where vege-

F

68

limestone fossils.

tables may grow and flourish; and all this marvellous
sequence, involving the formation and completion of a new
and habitable country, be referable to the labours of myriads
of coral insects ; so, by means of myriads of marine creatures,
requiring and producing these coverings of shells, was this
formation of secondary limestone in great degree produced,

to be at length upheaved, probably by volcanic influence,
from the bed of the ocean, — to be partially vitrified by the
heat, its organic structure being so far destroyed, and a
crystalline or an amorphous character substituted for it, —
to become partially mixed with products of volcanic action,
— in part to form rugged and broken masses of precipitous
rock, to be worn by the storms of ages, — in part to show
marks of disrupted stratifications, the shakes and displace-
ments, which tell even now, in the strongest language, of
the convulsions by which such masses were upheaved, — in
part to become extensive surfaces of undulating country, —
in part to form the rocky sides of valleys, between which
the streams from the mountains may find their way to the
sea. Such are the rocks, the uplands, and the valleys of the
Derbyshire limestone.

Upwards of one hundred classified and named species of
fossil shells are obtained from the limestoue formation. It
forms a very interesting series. The fossils are principally
found in the upper beds of the limestone, as might perhaps
have been expected : time, or pressure, or possibly elevated
temperature, having more completely obliterated all traces
of organisation in the lower beds. Different species of
crinoidea are abundant in most parts of the formation ; the
brachiopoda offer the largest number of species, and abound in
the rocks around Buxton ; and cephalopoda and gasteropoda,

MILLSTONE- GEIT EOEMATION.

69

although more rare, are by no means uncommon. To com-
plete the series of the fossils of the district, those found in
the coal measures and in the millstone grit should of course
be obtained ; the whole forming what might be called a
carboniferous series. There ought to be a public collection
of the entire series in every town of the district, where
residents and tourists might study these remains of primeval
creation.

The sojourner who can gather such food for thought in
his walks about the neighbourhood of Buxton, has before
him in this locality abundant additional materials foi1 his
inquiries. Leaving the mountain-limestone formation, on
the very edge of which he finds himself when he passes to
the north and north-west of the town, — and crossing the
narrow bed of shale, which he does on commencing the
ascent of the Manchester road, — he immediately steps to
the adjoining formation of millstone-grit, which tells of a
less remote period in the world’s history. In a quarry of
valuable stone for building purposes, about half a mile from
the town, on the right-hand side of the road, are occasionally
found the fossil remains of fruits and monocotyledonous
stems, which show that, at some remote period, the climate
of these now colder regions of the world, must have been
at least as warm as that of the intertropical countries of
modern times. These fruits and stems show, that plants
which only grow and flourish within the limits of the torrid
zone, must at one time have attained a large size in this
locality. How strange, and yet with what a strong1 pro-
bability of truth, to think that possibly this gritstone
formation was, at some remote period, part of a land of
much lower level than that which it now occupies, the tern-

70

MILLSTONE-GBIT FORMATION.

perature of which was that at which palms and the like can
grow and flourish ; while the adjoining formation of secondary
limestone was at the bottom of the sea, or perhaps in process
of being formed by myriads of shell-fish !

The contiguity of the limestone and gritstone formations
affords much matter of curious observation, as to the
difference of vegetative power and character of these
different soils.

The moorland character of the uncultured higher grounds
of the gritstone formation, — the peat soil, — the existence in
many places of such considerable thicknesses of hog-earth
overlaying the gritstone, as to have contained large trunks
of trees completely buried and preserved, for periods
probably beyond recorded time, — illustrate remarkably the
very different early history of the limestone and gritstone
formation. At those remote periods, these parts of the
gritstone formation must have been covered with a dense
vegetation ; layer upon layer of which, buried by new
growths, to he in turn buried by successive growths, at
length formed great depths of impervious hog-earth, which
retain the rains in a chill and unproductive excess of moisture,
and form a surface only capable of supporting heaths and
kindred plants, until subjected to such dressing and drainage
as alter its character and condition. At these remote periods
of time, the limestone may have been at the bottom of the
sea, or in the last stages of its formation ; and at all events
must have been so far differently circumstanced, that it had
no vegetative growth of similar character to that of the
gritstone formation.

The vegetation of the pasture lands differs much on these
formations ; there are marked differences in the broader

VALE OF GOVT.

71

features of the landscape ; and some trees, and plants, and
wild flowers, which thrive on the one, do not thrive on the
other. These differences in the characters and productions
of the two formations, are especially remarkable in their
respective valleys. There is a valley on the gritstone forma-
tion, which begins at a short distance from Axe Edge, and
extends several miles. This valley, called the vale of Goyt,
from the mountain stream — the Goyt — which runs through
it, exhibits throughout its course a remarkable richness and
variety in its vegetative growths. This is in part due to the
gritstone detritus, which constitutes necessarily much of its
soil, and in part to coverings, or admixtures, or detritus, of
peat or bog earth, of varying thicknesses and proportion.
Trees grow with great rapidity on the sides of this valley.
There is scarcely a wild fruit which grows in any part of
these kingdoms, that is not to be found growing in this
valley, or on the adjoining uplands and moors, — from the
cloudberry, clustcrberry, cranberry, and bilberry of the
moorland, to the blackberry, strawberry, and raspberry, of
the valley and its sides. Errwood valley, leading from the
vale of Goyt to Errwood Hall, with the hill sides, almost
from their summits, to the banks of a mountain streamlet,
clothed with a close undergrowth of rhododendrons, forms a
feature in this district of much too great beauty, and of too
unique a character, to justify omission from this catalogue
of the main features of the scenery of these hills and dales.
In the month of June, when the sides of the valley of
Errwood are covered with the many shades of colour, that so
many varieties and thousands of rhododendrons produce, the
beauty of the scene surpasses description. But, to return :
there is a great and readily observable difference in the

72 COMB’S MOSS. — CHAPEL-EN-IiE-FEITH. — FAIEEIELD,

character and general appearance and form of the surface,
in the shape of the hills, in the appearance of their sides,
curves, and eminences, and in the whole character of the
vegetation of the gritstone and limestone formations.

There is a magnificent and much broader valley, within
the same distance from Buxton, on the north ; being divided
from the valley of Buxton by Comb’s Moss. The town of
Chapel-en-le-Frith, which is six miles from Buxton, is
situated in a part of this wide and undulating valley, or
extensive basin, which consists almost entirely of the grit-
stone formation. There are few finer scenes than the view
of this valley from the north-western edge of Comb’s Moss,
at the distance of somewhat less than three miles from
Buxton. The explorer may turn off the Manchester road to
the right, at the first milestone from the town, follow the
bridle-road for about half a mile, and then ascend the higher
grounds on the right. A stout pedestrian, however, should
explore the whole of this valley, as well as that of the Goyt.

At a distance of about half a mile from Buxton, on the
north-east, is the hamlet of Fairfield, with its fine com-
manding upland position, its church, and its extensive com-
mon— the old Buxton racecourse. The road from Buxton
to Fairfield is a steep ascent ; presenting on the left, a very
good view of the whole valley of Buxton, backed and begirt
by Axe Edge, Grin Edge, and Comb’s Edge ; with Lower
Buxton, and its Crescent, and church, and hospital, and the
adjacent park, occupying the centre of the scene. The village
of Fairfield is prettily situated on this upland ; and beyond
it lies the common, which affords admirable ground for
horse-exercise. The road which leads to Chapel-en-le-Frith,
passes at right angles, less than a mile beyond the common,.

BATHAM GATE. — MARVEL-STONES. EILDON HOLE. /3

part of the old Roman road called Batham gate. The un-
doubted antiquity of this road, together with the name it
has immemorially borne, help to prove the ancient use and
importance of the Buxton baths.

If this old road, with its less evidently ancient continu-
tions, be followed for about two miles, the so-called Marvel-
stones will be seen on the rig'ht. This is a curious and
somewhat extensive cropping out of limestone rocks, which
are raised two or three feet from the surface. The less
zealous explorer will however hardly think himself repaid by
their appearance, for the trouble of his journey to the spot.

Immediately beyond the Marvel-stones, lies the small
mountain village of Peak-Forest, with its chapel, which
enjoyed, so recently as in the course of the last century,
the cebbrity and supposed privileges of an English Gretna-
Green. Very near to Peak-Forest village, there is an ex-
traordinary natural opening or fissure in the limestone,
called Eildon-Hole. The depth of this fissure, and its
irregularity, must be great; inasmuch as, on throwing stones
into it they often fall and rebound from side to side, until
the re'erberation comes to be heard more and more faintly,
the soand seeming to be at length lost in the greater and
greater distance. There may be some degree of deception in
this natter, owing to the echoing effect of the reverberation
in tb contracted and rocky channel ; but it is probable that
the cepth of the chasm is really very considerable.

A>out a mile beyond the junction of Batham Gate with
the Chapel-en-le-Frith road, at Dove-Holes, is one of the
remirkable water-swallows, of which several are met with in
thisdistrict. A larger or smaller stream of water descends
by i fissure into an under-ground natural channel, and

74

DOVE HOLES. — WATER SWALLOWS.

emerges from the surface at a greater or less distance -in
some cases amounting to several miles. The most important
of the Derbyshire water-swallows are those which occur in
the course of the rivers Hamps and Manifold, at the Water-
houses, and Wetton Mill, respectively. Large volumes of
the waters of these streams are engulfed; the Hamps pur-
suing an underground course of some six miles, and the
Manifold more than four miles ; the two streams emerging
in the grounds of Ilam Hall, within a few yards of one
another, and presently uniting to form a tributary to the
river Dove. There is also an important illustration of these
water-swallows at Sparrow Pit, in the Peak-Forest district,
wheie the surface-stream dashes into fissures and caverns,
and thence traverses an underground channel, until it re-
appears in the Speedwell Mine, at Castleton, whence it again
reaches the open air. There is a minor illustration of this
curiosity of nature at Sherbrook, near Buxton, and also
at ater Swallows, near Fairfield. In many instances,
when the streams are full, the swallow is unable to leceive
the whole of the water, and the diminished flow coiiinues
its course along the surface : whereas, in dry weather,
the swallow receives the whole of the water, ant the
farther water-course is left dry.

One mile beyond Dove-Holes, the road joins the nain
road, which leads from Chapel-en-le-Fritli to Castleton.
The main road descends rapidly towards Chapel-en-le-Fdth,
which is about a mile and a half from the junction of tiese
roads, and six miles from Buxton. The small town of Chajel-
en-le-Frith is prettily situated and sheltered. Iminediaely
beyond the town, the valley in which it is situated opens >ut
to a considerable width, presenting bold and fine elevatims

CHAPEL-EK-LE-EEITH. — THE PEAK. — MAM-TOE. 75

towards the north and south, and enclosing1 beautiful and
productive lands on both sides of the road. This road joins
the high road from Buxton to Manchester, about three miles
from Chapel-en-le-Frith, and six miles from Buxton, at
Horridge End, and close to the hamlet of Whaley.

To the north of Chapel-en-le-Frith are the districts and
towns of Hayfield and Glossop ; and to the east of Hayfield
is the grefit range of elevated country, which is dignified
more especially by the name of the Peak ; having Kinder-
Scout on its western, and Ashop Moor and Edale on its
eastern extremity, — the higher grounds having an elevation
of nearly 2000 feet above the level of the sea. These moun-
tain slopes and summits, with their covering of heath, and
bold irregularities of surface, with rocky eminences of time-
worn gritstone, and a more or less considerable waterfall
after recent rains, and with extensive views on the north and
south over a beautifully undulating upland country, consti-
tute a very remarkable feature in this picturesque district.
The massive denuded and storm-roughened boulder stones
on the ridges of the highest elevations give to the scene a
look of antiquity that is very impressive. These uplands
and the beautiful valleys which surround them are ap-
proached by the interesting line of railway from New Mills
to Hayfield. A free access to these moorlands by the tourist
is said to have been forbidden of late by the owner of the
property. - Such exclusive action must be widely re-
gretted, and deserves re-consideration. The beautiful
valley of Edale, than which even this district has few finer
scenes to offer, separates this extensive range of high lands
from Mam Tor, which, although only 1709 feet above the
sea-level, from overlooking Edale on the north, and the more

76

CASTLETON CAVEBNS.

extensive valley of Hope on the south-east, is often consi-
dered to be, as would be implied from its name, the greatest
of these eminences. Immediately at the foot of Mam Tor
lies the old village of Castleton, crowned on its southern side
by the smaller, but steep and commanding eminence, on
which are the ruins of the castle of the lords of the Peak in
the olden times. The view from these ruins is extensive, and
very fine and varied ; and indeed the whole district supplies
such a number and variety of scenes, that every half mile of
a journey furnishes a new and extensive picture.

Close to the village of Castleton is the Great Peak Cavern,
— the most remarkable of all the Derbyshire caverns, — which
is entered by a natural arch, forty-two feet high, and one
hundred and twenty feet wide ; this imposing hall of entrance
being three hundred feet in depth. Beyond this hall, a
narrow low passage, almost separated from the farther
interior by water, which is either crossed by ah artificial
footpath, or by means of a boat, conducts the explorer into
a spacious cavernous chamber, some parts of which are esti-
mated to be two hundred and ten feet in width, and one
hundred and twenty feet in height ; the whole being en-
arched, with a magnificence of general effect, and a beauty
and variety of detail, which baffie all description.

A lead mine, no longer worked, called the Speedwell
Mine, is another of the wonders usually explored by the
visitor at Castleton.

The Blue- John Mine, whence the curiously beautiful spar
called Blue- John is obtained, is well worthy of a visit. Vast
spaces of the sides of this cavern are covered with sparry
incrustations of great variety, reflecting most beautifully the
lights of the candles and crimson and blue fibres, by which,
the cavern is illuminated by tbe guides.

GEOIOGY OF CASTLETON.

77

The following is taken from an interesting paper on the
geology of Castleton, by Mr. John Taylor, F.G.S., in the
Geologist, Yol. V., No. 5.— “The flora of the locality is
particularly interesting, especially that of the lower class.
Maidenhair, spleenwort, and rue-leaved spleenwort, grow
upon almost every wall; and the cystopteris in several
species is also common, whilst the adder’s-tongue and the
little moonwort are exceedingly plentiful in the richei pas-
tures. The number of mosses is exceedingly great. The
beautiful Pryum dendroides and others abound in the
moister spots of the Cave dale. In fact, the botanical
character of the vegetation hereabouts is so peculiar to the
three formations which are found, as to form a geological
map to the underlying rocks, coloured by nature herself 1
The limestone clothed with its short and beautiful carpet of
green ; the black shales of the Yoredale rocks covered by
their stunted and brown vegetation ; and the millstone-grit
in the glowing summer time quite purple with the flowers
of the heather, present well-defined surface outlines. And
for land shells no other locality can compete with it. From
the robust Helix aspersa to the diminutive Pupa, numer-
ous species intervene ; some of them, such as Clausilia and
Pupa, being more numerous in individuals than any other
place that I have visited.

“But to the geologist, the rocks present treasures of
fossils most beautifully preserved. I have found the Tere-
hratula hastata retaining its purple-coloured bands as
beautifully as when alive in the carboniferous seas ; and in
some places every slab that is turned up is matted with
Retepora and Fenestrella. Coming here from Manchester,
along the new road from Chapel-en-le-Frith, the first place

78

GEOLOGY OF CASTLETON.

where we meet with the limestone is about a mile and a
half distant from the town. This hill, Trecliflf, is about six
hundred feet in height, and the dip of the beds is about 25
degrees in a direction N.N.E. It is in this hill that the
‘ Blue- John’ mines are situated ; and this is the only locality
in the country where this peculiar mineral is met with. It
lies in ‘pipe-veins,’ having the same inclination as the rocks
which the veins traverse. One of these veins lies in a sort
of clayey stratum, and another seems to be embedded in the
nodule state in a mass of indurated dSbris. Besides these,
the whole of the limestone masses are fractured and cracked,
and, in addition to the pipes, the sides of the cavities are
lined with the most perfect and beautiful sky-blue cubes of
fluor, and the rhombic crystals of caleite. I remember
scarcely anything with greater pleasure than an adventure
in search of minerals a year or two ago, in one of these
caverns, which was richly rewarded. Witherite, fluor-spar,
varying in colour from transparency to rose, blue, violet and
other colours, selenite, and occasionally phosphate of lead,
are all found in the lead mines of the neighbourhood. Some
varieties of calc-spar have the property of double refraction,
like Iceland spar.

“Nearly all the characteristic fossils of the carboniferous
limestone abound, as may be seen by glancing at the names
of the localties given in Professor Phillip’s ‘Geology of
Yorkshire.’ The richest localities for obtaining them is just
below the ‘ Blue- John Cavern,’ and in the gorge at the back
of the town, which goes by the name of the Cave Dale. In
geologizing along the side of Trecliflf hill, one cannot but be
struck with the various groups of fossils which the different
beds present. The lower beds contain great quantities of

GEOLOGY OP CASTLETOtf.

79

Phillipsia — beads, carapaces, &c., being very frequently met
with, and occasionally found whole. Just as we should
have expected from knowing that the family of Trilobite
died out with the mountain limestone, as we continue our
researches higher up in the beds we find their remains
becoming more scanty, until at the top they are exceedingly
rare. One bed is rich in zoophytes, another in goniatites,
whilst another is composed of the broken fragments of
Sanguinolaria, and the whole of the beds contain numbers
of Spirifer imbricatus, which connects them like a huge
bracket from top to bottom. Some rare geologizing may be
had along the lower beds ; almost every stroke of the ham-
mer lays open something novel.

“The remarkable fissures which occur in the limestone of
Derbyshire have afforded matter of speculation to the curious
for centuries ; the most remarkable one is called the Winnats,
and is about a mile distant from Castleton. It gives rise to
the most sublime scenery, for the fissure is caused by the
splitting of a hill in twain, and the deep precipices on either
hand for the distance of a mile and a half, resemble the ruins
of old towers and buttresses, in some places clad with ivy,
and tenanted by bats and owls. Another such fissure is at
the back of the town, and has been already referred to. In
some places the passage at the bottom of this is not above
three yards in width, and is much of a character, in other
respects, with the Winnats. Much speculation has arisen as
to the origin of these rents; they occur at nearly right
angles to the line of strike, and have doubtless been formed
in the first instance by the upheaval and desiccation of the
rocks. Subsequent to this they have been worn and chan-
nelled by atmospheric and aqueous action. They have been

80

HATHEK6AGE.

attributed to plutonic agency, but it needs little geological
knowledge to see that the above theory is the true one.
Along the lower beds in the Cave Dale there is another good
spot or two for the geologist. Here are found numbers of
trilobites, some quite entire ; groups of entomostracan
Cyiliercea, and that rare fossil the Cyclas radialis. One bed
seems quite a nest of Pleurorhyncus armatus, although they
are very fragile and require great care to extract them with
the cone entire. Plutonic action has not been absent in the
neighbourhood, for at the top of this fissure are beds of
greenstone, and an imperfectly columnar basalt, whilst the
limestone around seems to be somewhat crystallized by the
heat to which it has been subjected by the intrusion.

“ Old Mam Tor, the * Shivering Mountain,’ in geological
position lies just above the limestone. The shales which
compose it are speedily decomposed by atmospheric agency,
and hence have given rise to the popular name which the
mountain beat’s. The inclination of its beds is E.N.E., and
the intensity of their dip about 40 degrees. These beds can
be traced through Hope on to Hathersage ; and along the
brook side, below Mam Tor, a good section is displayed,
where they are seen abutting against the lower limestones.”

Such are some of the readings of the district of the High
Peak obtainable by the geologist ; it is no less interesting
to the botanist, as may be inferred from Mr. Taylor’s obser-
vations ; while the influence of elevation and of soil and
subsoil on vegetation, rainfall, temperature, &c., would
justify and reward even more general and special inquiry.

The whole of the valley to Hope and Hathersage, and the
great extent of hills, and moorlands to the north, east, and
south, are well worthy of being explored.

HATHEKSAGE.

81

Hathersage is said to have keen the birth-place of Robin
Hood’s celebrated henchman, Little John. “ In the church-
yard is a grave said to he that of Little John ; and the
cottage in which that worthy is said to have been born is
not far away.” “ The grave of Little John is on the south
side of the church. It is marked by two small stones, one
at the head and the other at the foot. In 1728 it was
opened, and bones of an enormous size found in it. Some
years ago it was again opened, and a thigh bone measuring
32 inches taken out.” — “Black’s Guide to Derbyshire,” edited
by Llewellynn Jewitt, F.S.A., &c. Sir Gardner Wilkinson
writes, in the “ Reliquary,” a most interesting quarterly
periodical, specially devoted to local antiquities, and to which
this work is much indebted, that “Of antiquities, Hathersage
possessess its full share — in the camp called ‘ The Carl’s
Work,’ and the less important one near the church ; in the
rocking stones, and numerous rock-basins ; in the circles
near Longshaw and Evam ; and in the rocks above Derwent,
known as ‘The Cakes of Bread,’ and ‘The Salt Cellar,’ with
others named from their peculiar forms. The drive from
Hathersage to Derwent is highly picturesque, and derives
an additional charm from the contrast of its wood and water
with the moorland heights above the valley ; aptly illus-
trating the name Derwent (Der Gwent), ‘ fair water,’ and
fulfilling the expectations raised by an appellation of such
high promise. The hope, however, of finding Druidical
remains, which some might entertain from the name of the
so-called Cakes of Bread,’ and other objects indicated in the
ordnance survey of the hill above Derwent, is not so well
repaid ; these being simply natural rocks of fantastic shape,
the fust of which, consisting of layers of gritstone, lying one

82

HATHEBSAGE.

upon the other, have the same character as the masses of
granite that compose the Cheesewring in Cornwall, and
similar irregular pillars of rock on Mistor, and other heights
of Dartmoor. Neither these ‘ Cakes of Bread,’ nor the other
works of whimsical shape upon the Derwent hills, in Cornwall,
or on Dartmoor, are attributable to the Druids ; and it must
be admitted, that, if from being in the neighbourhood of old
British remains, any superstitious feeling was attached to
them, this could only have arisen from the strangeness of their
shape, as they are evidently not formed by human agency.
The small earthwork called * Cam Green,’ near the church
of Hathersage, once surrounded by a ditch, is said to be
Danish ; but its position and entourage argue in favour of
its being British, connected as it is, in strategical point of
view, with ‘Card’s Work,’ and the command of the approaches
from the eastward. For the one would be ineffectual without
the other ; and the earthwork was necessary to watch the
southern approach on that side, at the same time that it
guarded the western valley, and communicated with the
heights of Eyam Moor, all of which were masked from ‘ The
Carl’s Work.’ The church, with the vallum of earth en-
closing the camp, the churchyard, famed as the burial place
of Little John, the companion of Robin Hood, and the sur-
rounding scenery, present many pleasing views ; but as little
remains of the camp itself, I proceed to notice the more
striking peculiarities of ‘the Carl’s Work.’ This bears the
marked characteristics of an ancient British fort. It occu-
pies one end of an isolated hill, rising above the plain below,
and is a site admirably chosen, from its position and the
nature of the ground. The vallum is here about 17 or 18
feet in thickness ; its outer face, or scarp, fronted with a

WINNATS. — EBBING AND FLOWING WELL.

83

well-built wall of masonry, of which some of the stones are
50 inches in length ; and it extends nearly in a straight line
across the gorge of the hill, which is here about 150 feet in
breadth. One of the most remarkable features in this part
is the gateway on the south side. It is 7 feet 2 inches in
breadth ; and as the road ascending from the valley below
passed between the two curvilinear faces of the wall, which
formed the entrance passage, an enemy advancing to force
the gate was exposed to the missiles of the besieged on both
sides ; while the portion of it to the west, projecting like a
round tower, raked the face of the wall to the right and left,
and formed an advance work over the ascent.”

The whole of the district from Hathersage, on the east, to
Ludchurch and the Bodies, on the west, including of course
Peak Forest, Buxton, and Flash, and extending thence
southward, across what are now called the Sheffield and East
Moors, to Worksop, Eetford, Mansfield, and Nottingham,
was wild forest land in the mediaeval periods of history, the
haunt of Eobin Hood and all the outlaws and plunderers of
whom Eobin Hood is the quasi-historical representative.

The traveller, in going from Buxton to Castleton and
back, will act wisely to go on the one occasion by the road
which passes the foot of Mam Tor, and on the other to pass
through the Winnats or Wind-gates. The view through
these great rocky portals presents a dioramic scene of
magnificent extent and beauty.

About five miles from Buxton, by the side of the road to
Castleton, at the upper part of the valley of Bar-moor Clough,
through which the road passes, is the most remarkable of the
intermitting springs of this district. It is called the Ebbing
and Flowing Well. The frequency with which this inter’-

G

84

TIDESWELL. — EYAH.

mittent flow occurs, depends upon the amount of rain which
may have fallen recently. After much rain, the flow may be
as frequent as every ten or fifteen minutes. The quantity of
water poured out at a time must be considerable. The ebb
and flow may be due to a curved conduit, through which the
supply of water has to pass. One limb of such conduit might
become gradually filled with water as it drains from the
surface ; at the same time the water would rise to the same
level in the other limb of this natural syphon ; and when
the second limb had become filled to its farther extremity,
the flow would take place, and continue until both limbs of
the conduit were emptied, when the flow would cease, and
the curved conduit have to be again filled.

Seven miles to the north-east of Buxton is the town of
Tideswell, — at one time a place of considerable importance, —
the market town of the lead-mining district of Derbyshire.
These lead mines have been comparatively little productive
for many years. The church of Tideswell is a large and
interesting building, — erected in the 14th century, — of some-
what mixed style, — but on the whole, of handsome and
imposing ecclesiastical character, with a lofty tower, and
containing the monument of .Robert Pursglove, Prior of
Gisburne Abbey, in the reign of Queen Mary, and that of John
Foljame, also a benefactor to the church, of the date 1358.
The “ Brasses ” are excellent specimens of mediffival work.

There is an effort being made by the present energetic
vicar to restore this interesting and valuable structure. It
deserves a visit of inspection from all lovers of ancient
ecclesiastical architecture ; and the results of a worthy
restoration must commend themselves to every one.

Four miles to the north-east of Tideswell is the village

EYAK.

85

of Eyam,— famous on account of its desolation by plague, in

the year 1666, and from the devoted heroism and affecting

history of the pastor and his wife.

“Among the verdant mountains of the Peak
There lies a quiet hamlet, where the slope
Of pleasant uplands wards the north winds bleak ;

Below, wild dells romantic pathways ope ;

Around, above it, spreads a shadowy cope
Of forest trees : flower, foliage, and clear rill
Wave from the cliffs, or down ravines elope ;

It seems a place charmed from the power of ill /

And many are the pilgrim feet which tread
Its rocky steeps, which thither yearly go ;

Yet, less by love of Nature’s wonders led,

Than by the memory of a mighty woe,

Which smote, like blasting thunder, long ago,

The peopled hills. There stands a sacred tomb

Where tears have rained, nor yet shall cease to flow ;
Becording days of death’s suhlimest gloom ;

Mompesson's power and fame, — his beauteous Catherine’s
doom.” — The Desolation of Eyam, by W. &-M. Hoioitt.

At the time of the plague-visitation, the Rector of Eyam
was but a young man, — his wife, Catherine, a young and
lovely woman ; and they had two children, a boy and a girl,
respectively three and four years of age. Until the spring
of 1666, Eyam had escaped the plague-visitation ; which
had, during the preceding year, attacked the inhabitants of
London and other places so severely; and, indeed, at this
time, had in a great degree declined in those places. It had
been in the month of May, 1665, that the plague had begun
to occasion serious apprehension in the city of London ; but
London does not seem to have been free from it during many
previous years. Even in 1647, or eighteen years previously,
3597 persons are recorded to have died from it ; the plague
mortality having fallen to 611, in 1648, — to 67, in 1649, — to
15; in 1650, and having fallen to 6, in 1664. But in May,
1665, a single occasional death from plague rose to 14 and

86

EYAM.

17 deaths weekly; in June, to 267; in July, to 1843; in
August, to 6102 ; in September, to 7165 ; gradually declining
to 281, in the last week of the year. In the spring of the
year 1666, according to Dr. Mead, a box of clothes was sent
to a tailor in Eyam, who resided near to the church. Within
this box the pestilence seems to have been imprisoned. The
person who opened this box is reported to have been its first
victim. In the course of a few months, five-sixths of the
inhabitants of the village had died from the disease. The
church and church-vard were closed. The dead were buried
hastily in the fields and gardens, and in a grassy upland
near to the village. The public services of the church were
performed by the devoted pastor from a perforated mass of
rock, since called Cucklet Church. At the commencement
of the epidemic, Mrs. Mompesson besought her husband to
leave the place with her and their children ; but he could not
be induced to desert his flock, and she could not be induced
to leave her husband. They resolved to abide together the
consequences of the pestilence ; and they sent away their
children. Believing that to assemble the people together in
the church, would but help to spread the disease, he caused
them to meet on the grass before the rock pulpit ; and
there, twice during the week, and twice every Sunday, the
rector performed his public duties. When the plague first
broke out, Mr. Mompesson wrote to the then Earl of Devon-
shire, residing at Chatsworth, some five miles from Eyam,
stating that he thought he could prevail upon his parishioners
to confine themselves within the limits of the village, if the
surrounding neighbours would supply them with necessaries,
leaving such provisions as should be required, at appointed
times, on specified parts of the hills around. The proposal

EYAM.

87

was punctually complied with ; the self-imposed condition
was never broken : not a single inhabitant passed the
boundary line ; although, in that rocky and open countiy, it
is said that a regiment of soldiers could not have kept them
within it against their wills. The plague was stayed within
the limits of the self-devoted place ; not one of the neigh-
bouring hamlets, no single house beyond the limits of Eyam
village, became infected, although the frightful disease raged
within it nearly seven months, destroying as has been said
five-sixths of the entire population. Three of Mr. Mom-
pesson’s letters are extant. In one of them he writes :
“My ears never heard such doleful lamentations, and my eyes
never beheld such ghastly spectacles. There have been 76
families visited in my parish, out of which 259 persons died.”
It was in August, he had to write to his poor children, that
his dear wife had been one of the victims of the pestilence.
The harrowing date, 1666, is said to have been often met
with, some few years ago, on many detached stones that had
been used in and about Eyam for ordinary building purposes;
but the tomb of Mrs. Mompesson, with its inscription —
Cave Nescitis Horam — exists in Eyam churchyard, near to
an ancient cross; and an elevated piece of ground, near the
village, is still marked by the gentle swellings of the turf
which covers the graves of many of the victims of the
epidemic; and some stones, on the upland, still tell the tale,
that a whole family of seven persons, bearing the name of
Hancock, died within one week, from the 3rd to the 10th
of August, 1666. The graves above referred to are on the
hill- side, near to the north-eastern end of the village, sur-
rounded by a wall ; and they should be visited not only on
account of the memorial they present of this most affecting

88

STONEY HILDDETON.

history, but on account of the commanding' view of Chats-
worth with its surrounding hills and valleys which is
obtained from the site. Near to the opposite or south-
western side of the village is the valley or ravine, containing
and commanding the very curious and interesting enarched
and covered rocks, called Cucklet Church. The valley
and the rocks and the high grounds on the south should be
visited. The key of the entrance to these grounds is
kindly lent to applicants at the Hall, which is in the centre
of the village. It would be difficult to exaggerate the
interest which attaches to Eyam with its history, and posi-
tion, and the scenery which surrounds it.

Beyond Tideswell, at a distance of some five miles, on the
east, and near to the village of Eyam, is the small town,
Stoney Middleton; chiefly remarkable from having a spring
of tepid water, with a temperature of some 65 degrees of
Farenheit, for the use of which baths were erected by the
late Lord Denman. As their temperature is so much cooler
than that of the warm springs of Buxton, the waters are
believed to have by so much less of medicinal influence.
Their use should be beneficial, in some degree, to the same
classes of ailments as the waters of Buxton. It should be
said, however, that there is no evidence as to any impreg-
nation of the water with nitrogen gas ; and therefore there
is no inference as to medicinal influence, beyond the degree
of the temperature, and the probably calcareous saline
constituents.

The whole course of the Derbyshire river Wye, from
Buxton to its junction with the Derwent, at the village of
Bowsley, beyond the town of Bakewell, presents a great
variety of valley scenery of remarkable beauty. The road

SHERBROOK DELL. — ASHWOOD DALE.

from Buxton to Bakewell passes through Ashwood Dale,—
the nearest of these valleys to Buxton. This valley is rathei
more than four miles in length ; and the road passes close
to the right bank of the river about three-fourths of this
distance. Near to Buxton, the valley is bounded by abrupt
limestone rocks of considerable height, and much bold and
rugged character. Several smaller valleys open from Ash-
wood Dale ; and one of these, from its remarkable and
picturesque beauty, deserves to be particularly mentioned.
This is Sherbrook Dell, opposite to the first milestone from
Buxton. The sides of this dell are extremely abrupt and
lofty rocks, which hem in the narrow gorge completely ;
and as the ravine bends suddenly within a few yards from
the road, the explorer finds himself at once surrounded by
much untouched and majestic natural beauty; the rapid and
bubbling streamlet, by which its bottom is channelled in
the winter time, and after heavy rains, — the little cascade
which tumbles into the dell at its upper end, — and the wild
plants and shrubs, by which every cranny and crevice are
taken possession of, — all serve to embellish this dell very
much.

The greater part of Ashwood dale is planted on both
sides, almost to the summits of the rocks. This has been
so far interrupted, and in some large degree defaced, as to
afford room for the embankment of the Manchester, Buxton,
and Midland Railway. With its straight line, its bulky
embankment, its great width in proportion to that of the
once natural and rock-walled and river-bottomed valley, the
railway is for the most part a cruel despoiling of some of the
finest scenery of this picturesque district. Here and there,
indeed, the rocky bases have been lowered, perpendicular

ASHWOOD DALE. — DEOPPING LOACH.

chasms and rock faces have been rendered more bold and
more deep, and bridges or rather viaducts of great span and
height have helped to justify the tampering with such grand
scenery as this. But the relief to the eye, when, here and
there, at intervals and for periods only too few and far
between, the railway line is lost in a cutting, or in a short
tunnel, will still convey to those who were not happy enough
to have traversed these valleys in earlier times, how great
has been the malign influence of the railway, to which the
inhabitants of these districts must otherwise owe so much.
The embankment is commonly in a great degree or exclu-
sively composed of broken limestone rock, and uncovered by
any vegetation. It would be an act of kindly consideration
on the part of the railway authorities, and indeed only a
conscientious attempt to amend the injury done to the
scenery of these valleys, if judicious efforts were made to
cover the stony embankment with grass, or ferns, or ivy, or
gorse, or whatever else would thrive and flourish on an
exposed and soilless surface.

A little beyond the third milestone from Buxton, the
highroad ascends rapidly the steep hill side, leaving the valley
and its river and scenery, and gaining after a climb of two
miles in length, the elevated grounds near Taddington and
Chelmorton. Maintaining the route by the river side along
a rough cart road, at Blackwell mill, four miles from Buxton,
we come to the junction of the railway with the main line of
the Midland route to Manchester; from this the scenery
becomes more rugged, the rocky masses in some parts
overhang the pathway, and oozing and dripping from the
uplands, form the mass or masses locally known as the
Dropping Loach. Beyond this the walls of the valley rapidly

CHEE TOE.

91

rise into a grander beauty ; tbe wooded sides, broken with,
rocky masses, tbe gradually enlarging river,— and even the
frequent railway bridges, as the railway crosses and recrosses
the valley, now lost in tunnels, now following its rock
channelled path,— these bridges often presenting much
boldness and beauty, or lightness, and adding to the general
effect, from the loftiness, or the form, or the simplicity of
their construction in stone or in iron, — combine to give the
charm of variety, and add to the general effect of the
successive valley scenes. At a distance of little more than a
mile from Blackwell mill, the scenery of Chee Dale is
approached. The pathway crosses the river, ascends the hill
side, follows the curve of the valley, and divides into a path
which leads to the summit of these uplands, from which the
general effect of uplands, valley, railway route, and river
may be seen; and over which the track leads to a point of
the valley about a mile lower down, and so much nearer to
the Miller’s Dale Station; or a downward path conducts to
the river, and to the farther valley scenery of Chee Dale,
with its magnificent mass of almost circular and abrupt and
lofty crag, called Chee Tor, abutting upon it, on the right
bank of the river. This vast mass of rock is of considerable
height, but necessarily seems to be of greater height than it
is, from its perpendicular sides, which are as straight as if
cleft with care by the hand of man. The curious horizontal
fissure near the summit of this rock has been already noticed.
The perpendicular cliff towers above the dale on one side ;
the bright stream occupies the bottom of the valley; on the
left, the hill side is embellished with scattered and over-
hanging trees and bushes ; and an appearance of isolation is
given to the scene, by a bending of the valley to the left and

92

CHEE DALE. — PKIEST-CLIFF.

then to the right, in order to skirt the rounded projection of
the Tor, — the valley being thus shut in on all its sides.

The path which leads to the summit of the higher ground,
and over the uplands, descends thence on the opposite side
of the hill to the farther valley, where the river is crossed
by a foot-bridge, and the river is followed, at the bottom of
the valley, to Miller’s Dale. There is the option of a rail-
way ticket to Miller’s Dale Station, and returning to Buxton
on foot by the river’s side, a distance of some seven miles ;
or going to Blackwell mill, a distance of four miles, in a
carriage, and walking thence through the valleys to Miller’s
Dale, and returning to Buxton by railway ; or of going and
returning from Miller’s Dale Station by railway, walking
from the station through Chee Dale by the river side, and
returning to the station over the summit of the hill.

Passing from Chee Dale and its great Tor, there is a steep
but practicable footpath up to the village of Wormhill ;
and from the upper part of this path, a fine view across the
valley is obtained. The river now passes below Priest-cliff,
a gently sloping and rounded hill, which is for the most
part planted, as are the sides of the farther valley, which
here takes the name of Miln-house or Miller’s Dale. At
this point is one of the greatest of the railway viaducts; and
it is probable, that many might judge the effect of the bold
engineering work to have been an improvement on the tamer
character of the scenery, at this reach of the river and the
valley. But, even if it were so, which is by no means
granted, the long and straight railway, on the right side of
the river’s course, through what was once the open and quiet
and lovely valley of Miller’s Dale, could hardly gain for-
giveness from one who knew and loved the scenes in other

MILLER'S DALE. — CRESSBROOK.

93

days; even if the greatest of engineering triumphs had been
produced, and the finest viaduct that the art and power of
man could raise. Miller’s Dale is an open valley, with slop-
ing sides; patches of plantation and juttings of limestone
rock varying the surface. The river is here of a considerably
wider and more imposing character; and the scenery is less
like that which commonly characterises the limestone valleys,
and is more like the valley scenery of other parts of England.

At the end of about two miles, however, the valley again
contracts; the river becomes again confined within narrower
bounds ; the sides of the valley, although clothed with trees,
are again more precipitous, and the characteristics of the
limestone formation are again strongly exemplified. This
part of the valley is called Cressbrook. If the growth of
water-cresses might justify the name, it is deserved at least
equally by the reach of the river below Chee Tor. The
bold, abrupt, and rocky banks are crowned at Cressbrook
with the most picturesque and varied uplands, on which are
the house and grounds of Mrs. Me. Connell, and the mills and
cottages of an extensive factory ; presenting perhaps the
prettiest known location of an industrial community, and
giving attractive views from road and from railway. It may
not be without interest to mention, that Mrs. Mc.Connell’s
house contains a very large number of pictures by the most
eminent British artists. Emerging from the narrowed valley
of Cressbrook, the river enters the broader and more slopingly-
sided valley of Monsal Dale, with natural plantings of hazel,
&c., and a great degree of richness and beauty. The Monsal
Dale Railway Station will be found to give very convenient
access to the valleys of Cressbrook and Monsal Dale. After
a course through Monsal Dale of two or three miles, the

94

MONSAL DALE.

river again meets the high road opposite to the eighth
milestone from Buxton to Bakewell. On the side of this
valley are two natural sections of toadstone, one above
the other. Whenever met with, much interest always
attaches to the observation of these ancient lava-formations;
and the two layers, with the great shell-depositions of moun-
tain limestone above and below them both, cannot but offer
interesting suggestions, as to successive submarine volcanic
outbreaks. It may also be noticed, that, in some places, the
toadstone, instead of presenting the appearance of shapeless
unstratified rock, that had at one time been subjected to
intense heat, and probably liquefied, is found in the form of
rounded masses of larger or smaller size. The size of these
irregular spheroids varies from that of bomb-shells and
cannon-balls, as found on the side of Miller’s Dale, to that of
the larger rounded and somewhat twisted forms seen in a
railway cutting in Ashwood Dale, close to Buxton. This is
not only interesting from the resemblance to some of the
masses thrown out by modern volcanoes, serving to confirm
the opinion that they also are lavas; but as illustrating, in
common with them, the violence with which the melted rock
was ejected through the spaces left by the disruption of the
strata nearer to the surface, as shot becomes twisted and of
irregular shape from the friction and force with which it is
driven from the barrel of the gun.

Mention has been made of the facilities afforded by the
Miller’s Dale and Monsal Dale Bailway Stations, as points of
departure to the explorers of these valleys. The facilities
afforded by the station at Longstone are even more consider-
able. Within an easy walk from Monsal Dale, and with an
upper and lower footpath on the eastern side of the valley, to

LONGSTONE EDGE. — HASSOP HALL.

95

the lofty eminence Fin Cop at its southern extremity, and
with a pathway or pathways on the western side of the val-
ley, either of which may be used on going1 and returning,
additional means are thus offered of exploring thoroughly the
valleys of Monsal Dale and Cressbrook. The railway viaduct
and embankment are also worthy of notice, not only on ac-
count of their magnitude and proportion, but as being mainly
composed of broken masses of the black marble of the district.
Again, from the Longstone Station, an easy walk leads to the
pretty villages of Great and Little Longstone ; and a rapid
ascent from the former village leads to the commanding range
of high land, Longstone Edge, with several existing or ex-
hausted lead workings, and offering a surrounding panorama
of hills and valleys which contain the towns of Taddington,
Ashford, Bakewell, Bowsley, Edensor, Baslow, Stony-
Middleton, Eyam, Tideswell, &c., and embracing altogether
most extensive and various scenery. From the distant or
eastern extremity of Longstone Edge, the descent to Hassop
is easy, giving the opportunity of seeing the park and
grounds of Hassop Hall, with their stately trees, bold
undulations, and sheltered beauty. The return journey is
readily made from the Hassop Eailway Station ; and the
distance from the Longstone Station, through the village of
Great Longstone, over Longstone Edge, through the grounds
of Hassop, and to the Hassop Station, may be probably
estimated at six or seven miles.

The Hassop Eailway Station is commonly the point of
departure for Edensor and Chatsworth, by travellers from
Buxton. It is 21 miles from Edensor, and 3 miles from
Chatsworth.

The Bakewell and Eowsley Eailway Stations are not only

96 YOULGREAVE. — LOMBERDALE HOUSE MUSEUM.

used as being conveniently near to Edensor and Chatsworth,
but as affording easy access to Youlgreave, Upper-Haddon,
and Winster, with all tbe varied scenery of the valley of the
Lathkil, Rooter Rocks, Bradford valley, &c., with the church
of Youlgreave, and Lomberdale House and its museum of
priceless local interest, as the ultimate objects. A walk of
seven or eight miles would embrace the most of these objects
of great and varied interest, over and along roads and foot-
paths traversing some of the most beautiful scenery in
North Derbyshire ; — from Bakewell over Upper Haddon,
through the Lathkil valley to Youlgreave, and thence along
the high road commanding the valley of the river Bradford
to Lomberdale House, and thence to the pretty village of
Middleton, and the adjoining gorge or chine with its rocks
and water ; returning thence to Youlgreave, with its ancient
church, its imposing tower, ancient font, Norman arches,
and curious monuments ; ranking as a whole second only
to the church of Tideswell; and thence proceeding to the
Rowsley Station by the road skirting Pickering Wood, or
by a wider circuit over Stanton, and by Stanton House,
with its fine commanding uplands. The circuit by the
carriage roads would be considerably longer. Lomberdale
House, the residence of the late Mr. Bateman, who achieved
an enviable distinction as an explorer of the ancient tumuli
of North Derbyshire, contains the collection of local and
other antiquities which was obtained at the cost of many
years, and much industry, on the part of Mr. Bateman and
his predecessors. The collection embraces many skulls, and
even some entire skeletons, that were found in the ancient
tumuli of the district, ornaments and implements of various
kinds and materials, and probably offers more suggestions as

LOMBEEDALE HOUSE. — TADDINGTON. 97

to the lives and habits of the Ancient Britons than can be
derived from any other source. It is impossible to have
examined this extensive collection without offering1 a tribute
of respect for the memory of the collectors, without a high
estimate of the long time and great labour it must have
cost to gather so much together after the lapse of so many
centuries, without a strong feeling of the value of the col-
lection in a historical as well as a scientific point ot view,
without a sense of local pride that the district should have
proved to be so rich in pre -historic memorials , and without
a mixed feeling that the collection ought to remain for ever
where it now is, and yet that, in the interest of the people
generally, it ought to belong to the nation, and form part of
the British Museum. Lomberdale House commands from
its windows a very fine view of the valley of the Bradford.
Permission to view the museum is obtained on application
at the house.

At the third milestone from Buxton, the road to Bakewell,
unfortunately made to quit the level of the river Wye, ascends
rapidly to the high grounds of these elevated lines of country.
Some little compensation, however, is given for the scenery
left behind, and for all that is commonly thus left unseen, by
a wide and varied range of scenery on the left ; the districts
of Blackwell, Wormhill, and TidesweU, being overlooked
from the road ; and, on nearing Taddington, which is six
miles from Buxton, the higher grounds of Chelmerton Low
are on the immediate right ; and the road to Monyash is so
much higher than the village of Taddington, that a view
may be commanded from it of the high grounds of the East
Moor, &c., at a distance of ten or twelve miles. From the
village, the road rapidly descends, and enters the valley of

98 T ADDINGTON VALLEY. — BAKEWELL.

Taddington, which is bounded on both sides by lofty eleva-
tions of much beauty, and some occasional grandeur. The
sides of the dale are clothed by natural plantations of hazel,
hawthorn, &c. After a descent of two miles, the road again
joins the course of the river ; and passing the end of Monsal
Dale, and crossing and re-crossing the stream, it leads
through the pretty village of Ashford, to the neat and clean
and pleasant town of Bakewell.

Bakewell is an important market town, at the distance of
twelve miles east from Buxton. It is situated at the foot of
a hill, on the western bank of the river Wye. The town is
undoubtedly of much antiquity ; and the ramparts or earth-
work of an ancient fort, said to have belonged to Edward,
surnamed the Elder, king of the West Saxons, and eldest
son of King Alfred the Great (a.d. 901 — 912), are still
traceable on the hill close to the town. Its tepid waters,
having a temperature of 60 degrees, Farenheit, seem to have
had a very ancient reputation ; and from bath and well or
spring, its name was obviously obtained. In the Domesday
book, a.d. 1086, it is called Badaquelle, or Bauquelle. A
bathing house was erected over the spring in the year 1697.
The waters are probably of similar character and efficacy to
those of Stoney Middleton. The church, much of which has
unhappily had to be re-built since the year 1840, has been
well and fully described by the late Eev. Dr. Plumptre, the
master of University College, Oxford. As given in “Black’s
Guide to Derbyshire," — “In the angle between the south
transept and the chancel stands what has been termed a
Runic cross, somewhat resembling that at Eyam. On
the west side are sculptures in relief; and, on the three
others, are the ornamental scrolls, so prevalent on Saxon

BAKE-WELL.

99

crosses. The sculptures, though now almost obliterated,
have been ascertained to illustrate the life, death, burial,
resurrection, and ascension of Christ. On the bend of the
cross is a representation of the entry into Jerusalem. The
existence of this cross, and the remains of several others
of like make, seem to prove that a burial-place existed here
long before the Conquest ; and if a burial-place, it is almost
certain that a church, existed also. In the Domesday Book
it is stated that two priests officiated in the church at Bake-
well. It is very difficult, notwithstanding these facts, to
trace the history of the church. Of its original foundation
we know absolutely nothing ; though, by local tradition, the
building of the nave, which, with the exception of the west
end and tower, is the oldest part remaining, is ascribed to
King John, while Earl of Morton. In 1192, he gave it,
with its prebends, to the cathedral of Lichfield ; the dean
and chapter of which have still the patronage of the living.
It is recorded that, in 1305, a charity was endowed by Sir
Godfrey Foljambe and Avena his wife. In the south side of
the nave is their monument, with two half-length upright
figures. The present nave was probably erected about the
year 1110. To the east of the transept is the Vernon chapel,
in the later decorated style, founded, in 1360, “upon the
walls of the former chapel.” In this chapel were buried the
families of Vernon and Manners, the occupiers of Haddon
Hall. I he most interesting monument is a representation,
in alabaster, of Sir Thomas Wendesley, in plate armour, who
was mortally wounded at the battle of Shrewsbury, in 1403.
In 1841, the restoration of this fine old church was found to
be necessary ; and on excavating the foundations of the
ancient buildings, a considerable number of Saxon remains

H

100

BAKEWELL.

were discovered, including a coped tomb, and several rudely-
sculptured coffin lids. “They consist, in part, of several
fragments of stone, carved with interlacing bands, and other
devices, so closely resembling those on the cross in the
churchyard, and more especially those on the cross at Eyam,
that there can be no doubt they may all be referred to the
same period, whatever that period may be determined to be.”
In Glover’s interesting History and Gazetteer of Derbyshire,
it is collated that — “ in the reign of King John, the church
was granted to the canons of Lichfield ; and in return for
this grant, one of the prebendaries of that cathedral was to
say mass for the soul of the King and his ancestors. In a
decree of the Archbishop of Canterbury, for repairing and
ornamenting chapels belonging to parish churches, which
was dated in the year 1280, complaint was made that the
deacon and subdeacon of Bakewell were obliged to beg for
their bread. The archbishop therefore ordered that they
should eat at the table of the vicar. To provide for such an
increase of expense, the vicar, who, before, had twenty marks,
was ordered an additional allowance of ten marks for the
support of two priests, with a deacon, subdeacon, and clerk,
at his table ; and, besides, one mark annually for the deacon,
and ten shillings for the subdeacon, were allowed for the
purchase of clothes. The archbishop also ordered, that ten
scholastic clerks, whose occupation consisted chiefly in
carrying about the holy water on the Sundays and festivals,
in the church and chapels of the parish, should be chosen and
maintained out of the donations of the parishioners. He also
insisted that the chapels of Taddington, Longstone, and
Baslow should be supplied by the chapter with fit priests,
and that the chapter and the parishioners should contribute

BAKEWELL. — VALE OF HADDON. — HADDON HALL. 101

in equal proportions for their maintenance, each, paying at
least ten marks and a half.”

Bakewell has been much frequented on account of the
trout-fishing in the river Wye. It has the advantage of
being in the immediate neighbourhood of Haddon Hall and
Chatsworth House, the Yale of Haddon, Darley Dale, Mat-
lock Bath, and Monsal Dale, and of having a first-class
station on the Manchester, Buxton, and Midland Railway.

Beyond Bakewell, the road still maintains its position by
the banks of the Wye, through the Yale of Haddon ; passing
the fine old mansion of Haddon Hall, on the left, about two
miles from Bakewell. In this broader valley, although the
railway stretches its direct way throughout its length, broken
only where it passes through a short tunnel behind Haddon
Hall, the scenery seems to be little if at all spoiled by its
embankment ; and the growth of grass and shrubs may
hereafter cause it to be well nigh lost sight of altogether.

Haddon Hall has been again and again described, and has
been delineated by ablest artists. It deserves a volume of
description. It is almost unique, as an untouched specimen
of the houses that were occupied by the aristocracy of Eng-
land in the olden times. Situated finely on the side of the
broad valley, — with its bridge of three arches, — its time-
worn gateway and court-yard, — its massive construction and
irregular walls, — its ancient chapel, — its kitchens, buttery,
and hall, — its recessed withdrawing room, — its long and well-
lighted gallery, its varied yet congruous mediaeval eleva-
tions,— its garden-terraces and yew trees’ shade, Haddon
Hall richly deserves all the notice which it receives. Erected
at various remote periods, the greater part of the structure
may probably be referred to the eleventh century.

102

EOWSLEY. — EDENSOE.

Beyond Haddon Hall, road and railway soon lead to the
cheerful village of Rowsley ; during some years the terminus
of the railway, and having’ still a first-class station. The
village has been much and long resorted to by anglers. At
this place, the river Wye loses its identity, and becomes in-
volved in the larger stream of the Derwent. There is here
an interesting small Norman church and mortuary chapel,
of recent erection ; the latter containing an altar tomb to the
memory of the late Lady John Manners and her infant child.
There is on the tomb a very beautiful recumbent figure of
Lady John Manners, exquisitely graceful, and expressive of
extreme sweetness and repose. On one side lies the figure
of the infant ; on the other is sculptured a broken lily, in
bold relief. This great work of art is by Mr. Calder Mar-
shall, R.A. The tomb is of the hard and fine gritstone of
Darley Dale, and is enriched with well executed carvings.
The flooring of the chapel is inlaid with Derbyshire marbles,
spars, &c , and probably contains the whole of them. This
floor is the work of Mr. Tomlinson, of Ashford. Leaving
the railway route, crossing the river, and proceeding north-
ward, towards the village of Edensor, Chatsworth Park is
soon reached : the princely domain of the Duke of Devon-
shire.

Edensor is situated within Chatsworth Park. In the
chancel of Edensor church there was a monument to the
first Earl of Devonshire; also, a curious monument, with
two recumbent figures, one representing a person in the cos-
tume of the period, the other representing a skeleton: a
strange way of pointing the great moral lesson ! — and also a
monument to the celebrated Elizabeth of Hardwick, daughter
and co-heiress of John Hardwick, one of the richest women

103

TOMB OF THE LATE DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE.

of the time of Queen Elizabeth. She was married four
times; obtaining a large accession of wealth by every
marriage ; leaving children only by her second husband, Sir
William Cavendish; their second son being eventually
created first Earl of Devonshire. The monuments were
necessarily disturbed for the time by the restoration, or
rather rebuilding, of the church, at the expense of the
Duke of Devonshire, under the able direction of Mr.
Gilbert Scott. It is a worthy restoration, painstakingly
carried out, full of elaborate, beautiful, judicious, and
faithful details, worthy alike of architect and of patron.
In the churchyard, on its southern and sloping grassy side,
is a plain altar-tomb, surrounded by a plain iron railing,
surmounted by a massive cross, in full relief, of the
length of the tomb, the ends bearing also crosses in relief.
The tomb is without any inscription. It covers the mortal
remains of William Spencer Cavendish, the late and sixth
Duke of Devonshire, to whose liberality and enlarged
charity Buxton and its Hospital are so much indebted.
The absence of all inscription is in fulfilment of the wish
of the deceased nobleman. It conveys an affecting lesson.
In the centre of vast landed possessions, inherited from a
long succession of illustrious predecessors, and close to the
palatial home which he had so greatly enlarged and em-
bellished, and in which he had enshrined the most priceless
works of art that had been produced within his time, and
to which he had added the greatest triumphs of landscape
decoration and garden decoration that had ever been achieved,
this tomb without inscription now stands to point a moral
that may well leave its impression upon every mind.

“ The history of Chatsworth does not date farther back

104

THE LATE SIE JOSEPH PAXTON.

than the conquest, when William Peveril held it for the
crown. In the Domesday Book it is written Chetesuoi’de,
and ‘no doubt took its name from Chetel, one of its Saxon
owners mentioned in that survey.’ The property is pur-
chased, in the 16th century, by Sir William Cavendish,
husband of the celebrated Countess of Shrewsbury. By Sir
William a mansion was begun, which, after his death, was
completed by his widow. This was one of the prisons of the
unhappy Mary of Scotland, who, out of the seventeen years
she lived a captive in England, spent portions of the years
1570, ’73, ’77, ’78, and ’81 at Chatsvvorth. The mansion in
which she was confined, which has entirely disappeared, was
a quadrangular building, defended by towers. ‘ Her second
letter to Pope Pius is dated from Chatsworth House, Oct.
31, 1570, nearly seventeen years before the sanguinary man-
date of Elizabeth sent her to the block. Hear the river,
and not far from the house, is * Queen Mary’s Bower,’
which is an object of attraction to visitors. It is a raised
‘ bower ’ or garden, strongly built of stone, and surrounded
by a moat, and here, it is said, the Queen passed most of
her time.” — . Black's Guide to Derbyshire. The north wing
has been added to Chatsworth House since 1826.

It is impossible to mention, however cursorily, the Peak
Palace and its wonders, without alluding to the man who,
acting under a magnificent prince, full of artistic tastes, con-
tributed so much to the high character of the whole, serving
eventually what may be well called national interests. Sir
Joseph Paxton spent the greater part of his active life in
the employment of the late Duke of Devonshire, designed
and planned the magnificent arboretum, the vast rock-works,
some of the greatest of the waterworks, and, last not least,.

105

CHATSWOETH. — ME. HENBY CAVENDISH.

the orchid houses and great conservatory, which originated
the Crystal Palace, and the Eoyal Conservatory at Kew,
with all the attendant and consequent changes, as to the
successful cultivation of tropical plants in this country, and
as to architectural innovations which may end in a new
style of art-construction if it have not already done so.
There is scarcely a railway structure, however large or
costly, scarcely a horticultural construction, however unpre-
tending, in which the genius and Chatsworth experiences
of Sir Joseph Paxton may not be said to be more or less
traceable, from the ridge-and-furrow roof to the mixture
of glass and iron which are their special characteristics,
together with the extensive clear span of their roofs, and
the general breadth and boldness of the designs.

Chatsworth House is remarkable from its great size, its
adaptation to the scenery which surrounds it, — its upland
background of dark woods, which shelter an arboretum of
much botanical value,— its gigantic fountains and water-
works,— its great rock-works, — its conservatories, orchid-
houses, gardens, and pleasure-grounds, its Italian fa9ades, —
its princely suites of rooms, — its choicely filled sculpture
gallery, — its paintings and drawings of great masters,
ancient and modern, — and its extensive and valuable library,
collected by successive generations of patrons and lovers of
letters, and in part by the eminent philosopher, Henry
Cavendish, to whom science owes so much.

Mr. Henry Cavendish was born on October 10th, 1731. He
was the grandson of the second Duke of Devonshire. He
lived retired, was never married, and devoted himself to
scientific pursuits, and more especially to mathematics, and
their application to chemistry. He discovered that water is

106

ME. HENBY CAVENDISH.

composed of oxygen and hydrogen; he discovered that
nitiogen is an essential constituent of both atmospheric air
and nitric acid ; he investigated, with mathematical precision,
the properties and combinations of these important gases,
demonstrating his results both analytically and synthetically.
“ A French writer admits (we should say affirms) that he
furnished Lavoisier with the materials of his system ; and
Sir Humphry Davy, in a lecture delivered shortly after the
death of Cavendish, speaks as follows : — ‘His processes were
all of a finished nature, perfected by the hand of a master ;
they required no correction ; and though many of them were
performed in the very infancy of chemical science, yet their
accuracy and their beauty have remained unimpaired amidst
the progress of discovery.’ The discoveries of Cavendish
were finished ; he proved his conclusions both by analysis
and synthesis; he ascertained that the weight of the product
was the sum of that of its components, and determined its
specific gravity. He was the first who carried the mind and
methods of a mathematician into the field from which the
alchemist had not long retired, and in which the speculator
still remained. And when we say the mind and method of
a mathematician, we do not deny that the inductive philo-
sopher had been already there ; but it was to remark
phenomena, and not to measure quantities.” — Fenny
Cyclopaedia. He has been well called the Newton of
chemistry : advancing the practical chemistry of the age
in which he lived, as much as Newton advanced the science
of light and of optics, and the knowledge obtainable from
the study of the stars.

A mere catalogue of the contents of Chatsworth House
would form a bulky volume, and would be by no means

CHATSWOETH.

107

without interest to any educated person. In addition to
the extensive and unrivalled library, containing- the most
valuable and rare works and editions of works, there is a
sculpture gallery, which, as to size, and proportions, and
contents, can have few equals. It contains many of the
greatest of the works of Canova, as well as some of the
most celebrated works of Thorwaldsen, Wyatt, Westmacott,
Gibson, and others of no less eminence ; and it contains,
moreover, some gigantic art-creations in foreign and Derby-
shire marbles, granites, spars, and alabasters. Leading from
an orangery more than a hundred feet in length, and of ade-
quate other proportions, and to suites of rooms of palatial
size, and eminently artistic decorations, containing many of
those wonderful carvings in wood, ascribed to Grinling
Gibbons, and, whether executed by him or not, exceeding
all imaginable wonders of the carver’s art ; holding, more-
over, some of the greatest pictures that have ever been
painted, more particularly Sir Edwin Landseer’s well-known
and priceless picture of Bolton Abbey in the Olden Time ;
and furthermore containing probably two-thirds of the draw-
ings made by the great Claude de Loraine for or from his
pictures, and called by him his ‘ Liber Veritatis’ ; surrounded
by grounds and gardens on a scale of princely size, and for
which even the genius of Paxton could do no more as to
taste and design, with waterworks on so grand a scale as to
have anticipated not unworthily those at the Crystal Palace,
the Palace of the Peak defies description, and must be seen
to be done justice to. The rock- works are so large as to
justify wonder that even wealth and perseverance could
accomplish such results. The great conservatory is still ad-
mitted to be a stupendous creation of glass, iron, and wood ;

108

CHATSWOETH. — DAELEY DALE.

and, thanks to the lightness of the material, and the ridge-
and-furrow surface, by no means without a character of
beauty ; covering nearly an acre of ground ; heated by six
miles of hot-water pipes; roofed by upwards of 70,000 square
feet of glass ; and containing the gigantic vegetations of the
tropics in most luxuriant health and beauty. The fountains
in the grounds are supplied by tubes 6,200 feet in length,
and fed by a reservoir on the high ground of the East Moor
at an elevation above them of 380 feet ; the jet of water
from the principal fountain rising to the height of 260 feet.
A special order should, if possible, be obtained to see the
kitchen gardens, containing the house in which the Victoria
Eegia was first made to flower in this country, containing
one of the largest and finest collections of orchidaceous
plants, and in every way interesting to lovers of horticulture.
The kitchen gardens are at a distance of three-quarters of
a mile from the house.

Chatsworth is two miles from Eowsley, ten miles from
Matlock, and fifteen miles from Buxton. Immediately be-
yond the north-eastern boundary of Chatsworth Park, is the
prettily situated village of Baslow, with its turreted church,
and ancient bridge over the river Derwent. Baslow is four
miles from Bakewell, twelve miles from Sheffield, and eight
miles from Chesterfield.

From Eowsley to Matlock, the road and the railway
follow the farther course of the river Derwent, through the
beautiful gritstone valley of Darley Dale. The breadth of
the dale is sufficient to prevent the railway from marring
the beauty of the scenery. About midway between Eowsley
and Matlock, on the right of the road, is Darley Dale church,
by the side of which stands one of the oldest yew trees in

MATLOCK BATH.

10»

England : said to be the growth of many centuries, and to-
measure 33 feet round its stem. In the church is a fine
altar-tomb, and there are also some interesting monuments.
Not far from the church is the Stancliffe Hall estate, now-
the property of Sir Joseph Whitworth, the celebrated inventoi
of the Whitworth rifle, and long distinguished as a mechani-
cian. On this estate is one of the most remarkable free-
stone quarries in the kingdom, which is now, however,
reduced to a decorative position in Mr. Whitworth s extensive-
and tasteful walks and pleasure grounds ; forming stupend-
ous rock features, and foregrounds to the valley scenery, of
most picturesque and romantic character.

Matlock village is eight miles from Bakewell, and nearly
five miles from Rowsley ; and between tbe village and Mat-
lock Batb, which has usurped the name of Matlock, there is-
a distance of nearly two miles by the road. The road passes
near to the river, with a now broader and deeper stream -
and the valley rapidly becomes walled in by loftier and more
precipitous limestone rocks, until Matlock Bath is reached ;
the rocks surrounding the town, and extending a short
distance beyond its principal buildings ; separating Matlock
Bath from the adjacent village of Cromford.

Matlock Bath is the fourth of the localities in Derbyshire,
in which there are springs of tepid water. The temperature
of these warm springs is 68 degrees of Farenheit. They are
similar in their medicinal influence to those of Bakewell and
Stony Middleton ; being probably by so much more effica-
cious as they are eight degrees warmer ; and being inferior
to the tepid springs of Buxton in temperature, and as to
gaseous impregnation. The Matlock Bath waters are known
to have been in use and repute for medicinal purposes, since-

110

MATLOCK BATH.

the year 1698. There are three important springs, which
have the same temperature and character.

Matlock Bath is, however, more remarkable from its
picturesque and sheltered position, than on account of its
tepid waters. Three great natural caverns are found here,
which deserve to be seen. The Cumberland Cavern con-
tains a gallery 300 feet long, and 18 feet high ; the Boyal
Butland Cavern contains great chambers, arcbes, and lofty
dome-like roof; and the Devonshire Cavern has an extensive
chamber, with a remarkable flat roof. The High Tor is a
mass of limestone rock, which rises perpendicularly from the
side of the river to the height of 400 feet. The Heights of
Abraham, another of the mountain masses which surmount
the sides of the valley, crown the summit of Masson Hill,
and are said to be 1000 feet in height. The abrupt and
gigantic rockiness of Matlock Bath gives to it a picturesque
character that is quite unequalled by any other town in the
district. These rocks and eminences on both sides of the
valley are easily reached by well kept paths, every step
offering an infinite variety of view, and adding to the
general attractiveness of the place. The river Derwent,
near to the town, is sufficient for the use of boats ; and pur-
suing its devious way through the bottom of the valley,
through a broader or a more contracted channel, — and
placidly and turbulently as may be, — the river, the plantations,
the limestone rocks, the position of the houses at various
heights on the sides of the valley, combine to render Matlock
Bath one of the prettiest places in the kingdom. The rail-
way, fortunately, owing to its high elevation, the frequent
tunnelling, and the breadth of the valley, interferes very
little with the natural beauties of the place.

VIA GELLIA. — WILLERSLEY.

Ill

Near to Matlock Bath, on the road to Hopton, traversing
a valley with well wooded and steeply sloping sides, called
the Via Gellia from the name of the owner of the estate, is
probably the best known and most extensive natural habitat
of the most beautiful of our spring flowers— the Lily of the
y alley. It grows on the sides of this valley in the wildest
profusion. It is met with in some other paits of the king-
dom, and even sometimes in the upper parts of the valley
of the Goyt, near Buxton, when fenced from shebp pasturage
and it grows in the valley of the Lathkil and in Monsal
Dale ; but the Yia Gellia towards the end of the month of
May claims an easy pre-eminence as to profuse production
of this interesting plant.

Having passed Matlock Bath, the road emerges from this
extraordinary portion of its course, through two great rocky
sides, to the village of Cromford ; and thence, still occupying
one or other bank of the river, passes on to the town of
Belper, an important seat of the cotton manufacture, — goes
through the pleasant village of Driffield,— and reaches Derby,
with its fertile surroundings, at the distance of 38 miles from
Buxton. The railway, having passed Matlock Bath, and
presenting an interesting peep of the grounds of Mr. Ark-
wright, at Willersley, traverses the woods and valley of
Alderwasley, and, after a course of six miles from Matlock
Bath, joins the main trunk of the Midland railway at
Ambergate.

Derby is a very ancient town ; although but few signs of
its great antiquity are left for observation. It was probably
in existence before the invasion of the Bomans ; the Boman
station, Derventio, was in its immediate neighbourhood ; it
was inhabited by the Danes, and the theatre of contests

112

DEEBY.

between the Danes and the Saxons ; a.d. 917, 942. It is
called “Villa Regalis” in the writings of the Venerable
Bede, in the early part of the eighth century. Derby was a
royal borough in the time of Edward, the Confessor, in the
tenth century. The Roman station, Derventio, was on the
-site of Little Chester, a hamlet immediately beyond the
boundary of the borough, on the other side of the river;
and Dr. Stukeley, in the early part of the last century, was
able to trace its wall quite round, and to ascertain that the
inclosure had been oblong, and contained five or six acres.
Coins of brass, silver, and gold, have been found from time
to time ; other ancient remains are occasionally met with ;
foundations of buildings are sometimes laid bare ; and there
are the foundations of a Roman bridge over the Derwent at
this point, which may be seen when the water is clear.

In the time of the Saxons, Derby was called Northwige;
and the name of Deoraby was given to it by the Danes. It
is probable that the names of the town, of the neighbouring
village Darley, of the Roman station Derventio, and of the
river Derwent, are all derived from the same ancient word,
dwr, water; — with the addition of the adjective, gwen,
bright, when applied to the river ; and of bye, habitation,
when applied to the town.

Before the time of the Norman Conquest, there was a
castle of some considerable size and importance at Derby ;
at this time, or soon after, it seems to have fallen into decay ;
the town itself becoming less important ; and its annals
offering few matters of historical interest. It was held by
the Parliamentary troops during the Protectorate ; the gar-
rison having been removed in 1645, probably in consequence
-of the town becoming infected with the plague. In 1665,

DERBY.

113

Derby was again visited with the plague, while London was
being scourged by this fearful epidemic. Accoiding to the
account given by Hutton, the town was forsaken, the farmers
ceased to frequent the market, and the market-place became
°*rass grown. (*To prevent famine, the inhabitants elected,
at the top of Nun’s Green, one or two hundred yards from
what is now the Friargate, four quadrangular steps, covered
in the centre with one large stone ; the whole being nearly
five feet high. It was called Headless Cross. I knew it in
perfection. Hither the market people, having their mouths
primed with tobacco, as a preservative, brought their pro-
visions, stood at a distance from their property, and at a
greater distance from the townspeople, with whom they
were to traffic. The buyer was not suffered to touch any of
the articles before purchase ; but when the agreement was
finished, he took the goods, and deposited the money in a
vessel filled with vinegar, set for that purpose.” On De-
cember 4th, 1745, the town was entered by the Young
Pretender, with his army, and occupied until the following
day ; and thence began the disastrous retreat, on the approach
of the royal forces under the Duke of Cumberland.

The manufactures of Derby have been chiefly of silk and
cotton, marble, porcelain, and iron. The silk and china
manufactures were at one time of pre-eminent excellence
.and importance ; and the iron manufacture is now of high
character and value.

The tower of All Saints’ Church, built in the reign of
Queen Mary, is a very beautiful architectural feature of
Derby. It is 180 feet in height, and admirably proportioned.
All Saints’ Church contains monuments to William, Earl of
Devonshire, and to the celebrated Countess of Shrewsbury.

114

CHELMEBTON.

The Arboretum, a magnificent gift to the town, from the
late Mr. Joseph Strutt, containing several acres of ground,
laid out in walks, and planted, with a view to the recreation
and instruction of the people, is deservedly one of the
principal features of Derby.

The Derby railway station is a great central point of the
Midland Railway system.

Beyond Upper Buxton, on the south side of the town, is
the old road to London, via Ashbourne and Derby. This is
the most exposed and least interesting of the roads near
Buxton. Passing the beautiful rising grounds of Stadon
Low, near to the town, — and the upper end of Deep Dale,
at the distance of nearly three miles, — a road to the left,
immediately beyond Brierlow toll-gate, leads to the village
of Chelmerton. Chelmerton is five miles from Buxton.
The village is situated at the foot of Chelmerton Low, in an
open valley. Chelmerton church possesses some degree of
ecclesiological interest. There appears to have been a chapel
here as early as the year 1111. This date at all events is
said to be on a beam in the chancel, now cased over. The
church is probably of considerable antiquity. At present,
the church is in a state of sad dilapidation. But, whenever
it may be restored, its ancient peculiarities should be pre-
served with jealous care. The different levels of the
flooring are particularly note-worthy, as also the east
window. There is an ancient carved stone font ; and there
are three carved tomb-stones in the churchyard, of inter-
esting character, bearing the date 1541. According to the
survey of the Board of Ordnance, this church seems to stand
at a higher elevation than any other in the country.

The chancel of this interesting church was restored with

I

TISSINGTON. 115

much care, at considerable cost, since the last edition of this
work was published, and many interesting features of the
structure were discovered and renewed. The whole structure
deserves the consideration of wealthy ecclesiologists.

From the Brierlow tollgate, the road to Ashbourne passes
over uplands of bare and tame character to Newhaven, the
scenery of the adjoining county of Stafford being shut out
from the view by the rising grounds on the right ; and
beyond Newhaven there is little improvement in the scenery
until some fourteen miles from Buxton, when the village of
Tissington lies on the left, with its old trees, and wells, and
enriched Old-English character of scenery ; the road to Dove
Dale is on the right ; and the fertile lower g’rounds of the
Ashbourne district are overlooked and travelled through
from this point to Derby.

The wells of Tissington are celebrated as perennial springs;
resembling so far, although cold, the tepid springs of Buxton,
Bakewell, Matlock, and Stony Middleton; and, like them,
issuing from the limestone close to the edge of the formation.

The perpetual flow of the springs at Tissington is said to
have originated the time-honoured annual festival of deco-
rating the wells of the village with flowers on Ascension
day. According to the tradition, the flow of the springs
was unaffected at a time when all the springs of the sur-
rounding district were dried up ; and they are said to have
been dressed with flowers ever since on Ascension day, in
grateful commemoration of so signal a blessing. There
are several wells situated in different parts of the verv
pretty village ; and these are more or less surrounded or
covered with wooden boards, of various shapes, plastered
with a somewhat thick coating of moistened clay ; butter-

i

116

LIMESTONE SPEINGS.

cups and daisies, with any other flowers obtainable, — and
also pine-cones or any other material available for colour, or
contrast, being stuck into clay, so as to form a Mosaic work,
which is vivid in its colouring, and often tasteful in its
design. Texts from Holy Scripture, and devices of various
pattern, are thus produced ; and when the artist’s ambition
does not lead him to attempt too much, the effect is ex-
tremely good and pleasing. The service for the day in the
quaint country church, and a procession of villagers and
strangers, headed by the clergyman, from well to well, after
the service of the church, the appointed psalms being read
at the several wells, render this a very interesting country
festival. The custom of well-flowering has been borrowed
by other places in Derbyshire, as by Buxton, Youlgreave, &c.,
but the well-flowering at Tissington maintains an easy pre-
eminence.

The scarcity of springs is one of the characteristic con-
ditions of the limestone formation. In some parts of this
tract of country, the inhabitants are entirely dependent on
the rainfall for their supply of water, which they collect in
tanks, &c., for their domestic purposes, and for their cattle
and farm purposes in round surface ponds, locally called
meres, with conduits leading to them from the rocks and
uplands. The springs which exist are usually found to be
near the margin of the formation, or where there are
fissures or dislocations in the strata, with or without toad-
stone. On the adjoining formations of gritstone and new
red sandstone, the springs are much more numerous. This
is the more remarkable in regard to the gritstone formation,
as it is for the most part of a higher level than the lime-
stone. Moreover, all the Derbyshire rivers, — the Derwent,

HIGH WHEELDON. — LONGNOE.

117

the Wye, the Dove, the Dane, the Manifold, and the Goyt,
— take their rise from the gritstone ; and the five last-
mentioned from different parts of Axe Edge, near Buxton.
The Derwent arises at the extreme north-eastern border of
Derbyshire, to the north of Ashopton. The Goyt and the
Dane eventually terminate in the Mersey ; all the other
rivers fall into the Trent.

If, instead of following the high road just noticed,— the
merits of which, for excellence of condition, deserve a
passing word of praise, — the traveller diverges from it to the
right, when between two and three miles from Buxton, he
ascends at once the invidious range of higher ground, which
separates him from the scenery of Staffordshire. He passes,
on his right and left, many oddly shaped, and bold, and
picturesque hills; especially Tor Rock, Swallow Tor, and
Chrome Hill, on the right. He may go through the village
of Earl Sterndale, ascend the conical hill called High-Wheel-
don, and see all these hills before and below him, and an
extensive and picturesque reach of the county of Stafford,
lying on the other side of the river Dove, which divides
Derbyshire and Staffordshire. The more distant of the
Staffordshire scenery is divided from that which is nearer, by
successive ridges of hills, over which the eye travels, and
upon which the lights and shades of the clouds produce the
most picturesque and rapid changes. A descent and ascent
through interesting and ever varying valley scenery, with a
crossing and re-crossing of the river Dove, here a stream of
no pretension, leads to the little market town of Longnor,
at a distance of six miles from Buxton. Passing thence to
the left, through a picturesque valley, which winds around
the base of High-Wheeldon, the traveller regains a road

118 HAETINGTON. — BEBESEOBD. — DOVEDAEE.

which leads to the village of Hartington. Hartington, by
the more direct road, is about nine miles from Buxton.
There is little scenery worthy of remark on the road from
Eai’l Sterndale to Hartington, until within half a mile from
Hartington, whence a higher level of road commands a view
of the river Dove, with a much improved description of
scenery bordering its course. Hartington is an unpretending
and quiet village ; and, within about half a mile, the river
Dove passes through the first part of the remarkable scenery
which has rendered it so famous. Beresford Dale is a little
gem of beautiful scenery. The more matured beauties of
that part of the river’s course which is more strictly called
Dove Dale, if here somewhat less bold in character, are
crowded together into a small space, giving the sense of
finished beauty which an exquisite miniature conveys, and
which may compensate in some degree for any deficiency in
the boldness and character, which might distinguish a paint-
ing of more pretension, and on a larger scale. Here, too, is
the fishing lodge, which was erected for the accommodation
of the venerable Izaak Walton ; here is the domain that be-
longed to his disciple, and friend, and expounder, Charles
Cotton ; here is the stream, from which those lessons in
angling were obtained, and by the banks of which those
thoughts and maxims and gossip were formed, and embodied
in simple and quaint phrase, which still serve to edify and
please all the lovers of nature, as well as those who practice
the “ gentle art and every one may well feel that this is
indeed a fitting place for such thoughts and musings.

Some few miles of bare scenery border the course of the
Dove from thence to Dove Dale. ' Dove Dale is separated
into several almost distinct portions, every one of which is

dovedale.

119

■distinguished by its own peculiar and characteristic beauties.
Tbe first of these is a somewhat open valley, with a rippling
and shallow stream, and grassy banks and bottom, and
shelving sides, — with but little of rocky and limestone
character. This is the less adorned entrance to the more
enriched scenes beyond. Passing over some higher ground,
which serves to shut out this first compartment from that
immediately beyond, the eye is arrested by a mass of rock,
which rises abruptly, standing in relief, and with much
grandeur, on the right side of the valley. On the left, a
little beyond this mass of limestone, is an expanded arch, of
fine form and proportion, leading to a shallow cavern.
Beyond this, on the left side of the valley, is a marvellous
specimen of the peculiarities and capabilities of the mountain
limestone. A rock, standing out boldly from the mountain
side, at an estimated elevation of between two and three
hundred feet from the bottom of the valley, is completely
perforated by an arch of some yards in depth, and said to be
about forty feet in height, and eighteen feet wide. Through
this archway is a space, open to the sky, which might be
likened to the small court-yard of a mountain stronghold ;
and which leads to a narrow cavern in the higher hill-side.
This curious archway, which has become detached from the
farther cavern, situated as it is at so considerable a height,
admitting the light of day freely through it, and presenting
the view of the space and cavern beyond it, is one of the
most picturesque of the rocky wonders of the limestone form-
ation. The view of the valley from above, as seen through
the archway from the upper cavern, is sufficiently beautiful
to repay fully the toilsome ascent by which it has to be
attained.

120

AXE EDGE.

The dale immediately beyond becomes much narrower;
the sides become precipitous and rocky ; the river becomes
narrowed, and less quiet in its character, and enters a nar-
rower and darker gorge between two great rocky portals.
On one side is a column of insulated rock, which rises
abruptly, and in massive grandeur ; on the other side is a
bold mass, projecting from the side of the valley. What a
scene of “hurly-burly,” and what gigantic action, must have
produced and attended the dislocation and upheaving of these
mighty masses ; and what a tale this scene tells, in the midst
of the beauty which is now so solemn and so still, of the
agency by which the earth’s strata were made to produce
the diversified surfaces, so needful for the wants, and so
conducive to the uses, the health, and the happiness of the
human race !

The valley below has again a more open and more en-
riched character ; with a more quiet and broader stream,
bounded by more sloping hill-sides ; broken at intervals by
masses of rock, scattered in vast fragments, or projecting,
as though they had only just escaped from being hurled
into the valley which they overhang.

The town of Leek, a principal seat of the silk manufacture,
is at the distance of twelve miles from Buxton, on the
south-west. The road rises rapidly from the valley of Buxton,
passing over the ridge of elevated ground, of which Axe
Edge is the highest point. The first part of the road is wild
and bold in its scenery ; the pointed and oddly-shaped hills,
near Longnor, lying at some distance from the road, on the
left ; the right being bounded by the higher ground of the
ridge of Axe Edge. When the summit of the high ground
is at length attained, an extensive view is presented ; and

121

CHAPEL-EN-LE-FEITH. — LYME HALL.

from thence to the town of Leek, the scenery is of com-
manding and varied character.

Macclesfield is at the distance of twelve miles from
Buxton, on the west. The highest part of the road, close to
a small road-side inn (the “Cat and Fiddle,”) offers a view
which is circumscribed in breadth, but which extends in
length to a distance of forty or fifty miles. The river Mersey,
near Liverpool, may be seen from this point, when the air is
free from haziness, as after rain ; the looking at objects so
distant being even painfully fatiguing to the eye. From
this point to Macclesfield, the road descends; ottering an
extensive view over this part of Cheshire, and leading to an
idea of the town of Macclesfield, which must be admitted to
be beyond its deservings. Macclesfield is a well-known and
very important seat of the silk manufacture.

Branching from the Macclesfield road, on the left, about
three miles from Buxton, is the road to Congleton, a small
town, at the distance of fifteen miles. The road is wild, and
less interesting than the road to Leek, or than that to
Macclesfield.

On the north-west of Buxton is the city of Manchester, at
the distance of twenty-four miles. The road from Buxton
after ascending for a distance of two miles, has the valley of
Chapel-en-le-Frith on the right hand, and that of the river
Goyt on the left ; no part of the one, however, and but little
of the other, being visible from the road. The village of
Taxal, and, almost contiguous to it, that of Whaley, are six
miles, and that of Disley is eleven miles from Buxton. Close
to the left of the village of Disley is the extensive park of
the Lyme Hall estate, the property of Mr. Legh’s family
during several centuries. The Hall, to which the public are

122

LYME HALE.

kindly permitted to have access, forms one of the attractions
of the district. The house is interesting from its associa-
tions, and contains much that is of historical, and much that
is of intrinsic importance.

Lyme ITall contains many very fine specimens of the
beautiful wood carving attributed to Grinling Gibbous. The
ancient entrance hall is very striking and handsome, and
contains the arms worn by Sir Perkin Legh at the battle of
Crecy, when he was knighted for his valour by Edward the
Third. The great drawing-room is extremely handsome and
interesting; it is wainscoted, and the roof is richly orna-
mented. The whole character and effect of this room, and
the staircase, the long gallery, the Stag Parlour, and the
chapel, are very impressive, and suggestive as to the archi-
tectural conditions and wants of what are called the medioe-
val times. There is some very interesting ancient furniture
in this house ; more particularly a very handsome old oak
bedstead, said to have been slept in by Edward the Black
Prince. Much of the extensive park around the house is
left in the untouched wildness of nature; and the celebrated
breed of wild white cattle has been preserved in the park
from time immemorial, and is said to have been indigenous
in the district.

Six miles beyond Disley, or seventeen miles from Buxton,
is the town of Stockport, — which, only seven miles from
Manchester, strictly so called, is becoming little less than an
extension of the great metropolis of the manufacturing
districts of Lancashire and Cheshire.

The London and North-Western extension line of railway
from Manchester and Stockport to Buxton, passing through
Disley and Whaley Bridge, and by Horwich End, and near

CEESCENT WALKS.

123

to Chapel-en-le-Frith, Dove-Holes, and Fairfield, does not
interfere with, nor bring into view, much of the more re-
markable sceuery of the High Peak district. It shows,
however, as has been said, from commanding elevations,
considerable portions of the fine valley of Chapel-en-le-Frith,
the south side of which it skirts.

As will have been inferred from the account which has
been given of the Buxton district, the walks and drives
in the more immediate neighbourhood of the town are
interesting.

The walks opposite the Crescent, already mentioned as
having been formed on the site of an originally unsightly
cliff, by Sir Jeffery Wyatville, offer a valuable resource to
those who are more especially invalided, from their proximity
to the principal hotels and lodging-houses. These walks are
cut out of the limestone rock, and are accordingly remarkably
dry. Arranged in a succession of terraces, a series of level
walks is obtained, with the advantage of giving occasion for
climbing at pleasure, or as lameness may diminish, or
strength increase, to a higher and higher terrace walk ; and
thus these successive terraces have long been popularly
recognised, as supplying indications of restored power and
capability, in regard to the crippled limbs and enfeebled
state of those resorting to Buxton for the use of its waters.

Almost contiguous to these walks, at the west end of the
Crescent, opposite to the Hall and the Square, are the
grounds and gardens already described in the first chapter
of this work, which now belong to the Buxton Improve-
ments Company ; and beyond these are still more extensive
walks and plantations, maintained and kept in order for the
free use of the public. These walks are carried through a

124 CAVENDISH TEEEACE.

— SEBPENTINE WALKS.

long belt of plantation, on both sides of tbe river Wye ; the
stream being crossed and re-crossed by rustic bridges,
diversified by waterfalls, and in other ways subjected to the
requirements of ornamental grounds. These walks are
sheltered and pleasant, and are much resorted to. They are
sometimes called the Serpentine Walks, and sometimes the
Winding Walks; and they furnish a circuit of dry gravelled
footpaths, of considerably more than a mile in extent.

A terrace walk, called Cavendish Terrace, of considerable
breadth, and with the advantage of being almost level,
extends from the bottom of the Hall Bank to what is called
the Tonic Bath, in the direction of Poole’s Cavern. This
walk is one-third of a mile in length, is dry and well made,
offers views of the gardens, plantations, Park, Corbar Wood,
and Burbage and Burbage Edge, and has proved to be a
most valuable addition to the many similar advantages of
Buxton.

Only separated from the Serpentine Walks by the high
road to Macclesfield, is the Park, which occupies more than
a hundred and twenty acres of greensward, and slopes towards
the south, having walks and drives carried through it. And,
again, only separated from the Park by the high road to
Manchester, there is a great extent of walks, of extreme
beauty and variety, through a plantation which occupies the
site of old gritstone quarries, and covers the greater part of
Corbar Hill side. Occupying the south side of this com-
manding- eminence, winding through plantations of adequate
growth, and traversing the picturesque inequalities of old
quarries, — all their rude handiwork covered over long ago
with wood, and undergrowth, and ferns, and foxglove, and
more recently with rhododendrons, and the like, — and pre-

BUXTON PAKK. — COEBAE WOOD.

125

senting- vistas of Buxton, and its valley, and of the hills
which surround it,— these walks are a much valued and most
picturesque addition to the attractive features of the locality.
The more energetic pedestrians should ascend beyond the
highest limits of the Corbar Wood Walks, pass through an
upper plantation, and reach the summit of Corbar Hill,
which commands an extensive view of Buxton and Fairfield.

The Terrace Walks, opposite the Crescent, Cavendish
Terrace or the Broad Walk, the Serpentine Walks and plea-
sure grounds, the roads through the Park, and the walks
through Corbar Wood, may be moderately computed to sup-
ply an extent that must amount to several miles. To this it
should be added, that, gradually, all the roads, within reason-
able distance from the town, have been provided with broads
well gravelled, and dry footpaths ; by which the extent of
the walks in the immediate neighbourhood of the town may
be fairly said to have been doubled, within the last few years.
And not only throughout the Terrace Walks, the plantation,
walks, and Corbar Wood Walks, but, at longer or shorter
distances, on the footpaths by the sides of the roads, seats
are occasionally placed. This consideration for the comfort
of weak or disabled sojourners might be wisely commended
to those in authority, as capable of being increased and
maintained with great advantage to the general interests,
of the place.

The road to Bakewell, winding, as it does, through Ash-
wood Dale, and near to the south side of the river Wye, and-
leading to much that is interesting, affords a very favourite
walk. The x’oad is continued near to the south bank of the
stream, for a distance of three miles ; but beyond this, as
has been mentioned, there is the footpath, or rather bridle-

12C

WALKS NEAB BUXTON.

road, beyond Blackwell Mill, as far as the Dropping Loach,
and thence to Chee Dale and Miller’s Dale.

On the south side of the commencement of the Bakewell
road, close to the eastern extremity of Lower Buxton, foot-
paths lead through the plantation which covers the southern
side of Ashwood Dale at this point. The paths are carried
back again to the road, at the distance of somewhat less than
half a mile, The road may be left at this point by a narrow
footpath on the south ; and this leads, by a continued foot-
path, through fields, to Upper Buxton. If the Bakewell
road is followed a few yards farther than the footpath now
indicated, a road, that is somewhat narrower than the high
road, leads tqJQpper Buxton by Sherbrook and Cote Heath,
and gives circuit of rather more than two miles. This,
which is commonly called the Duke’s Drive, is found to be a
favourite walk, and likewise a favourite short drive, in much
request by those who make use of pony carriages and bath-
chairs.

A little distance nearer to Buxton than the first milestone
on the Bakewell road, a stile and footpath lead to a wooden
bridge across the river, whence a pathway or sheep-track,
under a railway bridge, leads up the opposite side of the
valley, by the northern end of a plantation. On reaching the
north-eastern corner of the belt of plantation, the sheep-
track may be left, and the eastern edge of the plantation may
be followed for about a quarter of a mile or less, when the
top of the lofty and abrupt rocks which bound the northern
side of Ashwood Dale will be found to have been reached,
and a bird’s-eye view obtained of the road, and the river, and
the railway, and all their verv picturesque and beautiful
surroundings. If the sheep-track shall have been followed,

WALKS NEAK BUXTON.

127

or be now returned to, it will be found to lead to a green
and broad way on the west, called Tongue-lane, which leads,
pleasantly over the uplands to Fairfield; whence Buxton may
be returned to, by the high road or otherwise.

Sherbrook Dell, or Lover’s Leap, opposite the first mile-
stone on the Bakewell road, has been already mentioned, and

should of course be explored.

By proceeding along the Bakewell road to the biidge
beyond the roadside inn, called the Devonshire Arms, cross-
ing the bridge, and returning through Fairfield to Buxton
by a valley to the left, called Cunning Dale, a pleasant walk
of about five miles circuit is obtained ; or, having crossed the
bridge referred to, the pedestrian may climb the upland road
before him, called Ashe’s Bank, cross a field at the top, and
reach an old bridle road, along which he may return through
Fairfield to Buxton, over the high and open country called
Bailey Flat.

If the Bakewell road be followed through the first toll-bar,
and the steeply inclined valley immediately on the right be
followed along its bridle road, a high range of country is
reached by Cowdale and Rock Head ; and a footpath from
thence across the fields will be readily found, leading over
Stadon, and by Sherbrook and Cote Heath, to Buxton, after'
a circuit of about five miles.

If the Bakewell road be followed a few yards farther, and
the lodge gate on the right be passed through, and the road
followed to the opposite uplands, the old road to King Stern-
dale is soon reached, close to a small church which has been
recently erected ; and thence, by turning to the right, after
a walk of about naif a mile, where the road is crossed by the
road from Cowdale to the Ashbourne high road, the return

128

WALKS NEAR BTTXTON.

to Buxton may be by turning to the left and gaining the
Ashbourne road, — or to the right and regaining the Bakewell
road, passing by Bock Head, — or by walking across the
fields over Stadon to Sherbrook, — or the excursion may be
extended by following the foot road across Deep Dale to
Chelmerton.

There are an upper and lower road from Upper Buxton to
the first mile on the road to Macclesfield, the one passing by
Poole’s Hole and Burbage, the other by Wye Head; and
returning thence to Lower Buxton by the Macclesfield road,
gives a circuit of about two miles. This distance may be
shortened by following a footpath across the fields, — leading,
in the instance of the upper road, from Poole’s Hole to
'Cavendish Terrace, and as to the lower road, from Wye Head
to the Plantation walks opposite to the Square and the Hall.

There is a pleasant ramble by the footpath now referred
to, or by Cavendish Terrace, from Lower Buxton to the Grin
plantations above Poole’s Hole, and through these plantations
by a cart road, to the summit of Grin Low, marked by a
mass of loose stones originally put together to resemble at
a distance some ancient ruin. There is a good view of the
valley of Buxton from this point.

A satisfactory long walk is gained by skirting Fairfield
Common on the right, pursuing a footpath over the uplands,
which leads to an old road or lane, in the same north-easterly
direction, over the district called Green Fairfield, — skirts the
western side of Great Rocks Dale, — and leads to the Bake-
well road over a bridge, at the distance of nearly three miles
from Buxton. This comprises a journey of seven or eight
miles.

On the summit of Grin Low, to the south-west of the so-

WAIiKS NEAR BUXTON.

129

called tower, there is a somewhat curious limestone cavern,
called the Fern Cave, from the ferns which used to hang in
clusters from the roofing of the entrance, few of which have
however been left by the busy hands of explorers.

At the back of Grin Low are the extensive works of the
Buxton Lime Company. The extent of these works, the
machinery for crushing unburned limestone, and the mode of
blasting the limestone rock, by which masses of 2000 or 3000
tons in weight are detached, and the contrast in colour of
the newly exposed surfaces of rock to that of the long-
exposed crags, are all worthy of notice.

The second milestone on the Leek road, immediately be-
yond the toll-bar, is close to the base of the somewhat steep
eminence of high ground, called Axe Edge, from its lofty and
commanding position. From the summit of Axe Edge a
good view is afforded of the Buxton valley and its surround-
ing elevations.

The road to Fairfield, with its upland position and exten-
sive common, its fine and bracing air, and the view of Buxton
and its valley obtained from it, is one of the pleasant short
walks near to the town ; and there is a footpath across the
fields on the left by which the return to Buxton may be
diversified, as well as the routes on the right already spoken
of, by which the Bakewell road may be reached opposite to
the first or the second milestone, as a shorter or longer walk
may be wished for.

There is a long walk of about seven miles, which offers a
great variety of beauty and scenery, — from Goyt’s Clough,
about two miles from Buxton, on the old Macclesfield road,
by the banks of the river Goyt, along the moorland bridle
road, into the valley of the Goyt, and as far as Goyt’s Bridge,

130 WALKS NEAE BUXTON. — POOLE’S CAVEEN.

and thence across the bridge, and up the steep old road
called Goyt’s-lane, to the Manchester road, about two miles
from Buxton ; — or the course of the river may be followed by
the road as far as the Powder Mills, where the road crosses
the stream, and leads to the Manchester road near the fifth
milestone from Buxton ; — or, what is much more noteworthy,
the farther course of the river, beyond the Powder Mills,
may be followed by a footpath, and the woods and valley of
Taxal with very interesting woodland and upland scenery
brought to view, the highroad being reached about six miles
from Buxton, whence the return to Buxton may be from the
little distant Whaley Bridge railway station.

Another long walk of much interest, is obtained by leaving
the Manchester road at the first milestone, traversing the
neglected bridle-road as far as White Hall, descending thence
by an old road to the bottom of the valley on the north -T
thence bearing to the right, and reaching Dove Holes, and
thence Fairfield and Buxton, after a journey of about eight
miles.

Poole’s Hole, within about a mile from the town, well
deserves a visit from those who are fond of exploring natural
wonders. Close to the left-hand side of the entrance to
Poole’s Cavern, on the 24th of November, 1854, a number
of human and other bones were discovered, in the course of
widening and levelling the sides and bottom of the opening.
They are described by Mr. Bateman to have comprised the
bones of “ three individuals, accompanied by stags’ horns and
numerous pieces of corroded iron, consisting of buckles,
staples, clench bolts, (an inch and three-quarters long,) nails,
(one with a globular head, three inches long,) and a slender
sheath or ferule (four inches long.”) Fragments of stags

poole’s cavern.

131

horn, seeming to have belonged to animals of large size, ancl
some human and other teeth, one of the latter being of large
size, are now shown at the cavern. In addition to the above,
ancient coins and a bronze brooch, in very perfect preserva-
tion, have more recently been discovered within the cavern,
imbedded in the sparry incrustation, and no doubt thus pre-
served from the action of the air ; and bones similarly
imbedded are frequently discovered, in the course of the
operations for rendering the different parts of the cavern
more easily accessible. This is one of the more considerable
of the caverns in the mountain-limestone formation. The
entrance on the side of Grin Low, below the plantations, is
extremely contracted ; but, after a few yards, it becomes
more lofty, and leads to extensive chambers, through the
bottom of which a narrow streamlet channels its way, and
over which are roofings and arches of imposing extent and
character ; stalactites hanging from the roof in some places,
and large crystalline masses having accumulated on the
flooring of the chambers in many places, from the dropping
and welling of the water charged with calcareous matter.
Much has been done to make the entrance to the cavern
more accessible, and to improve the pathways through its
interior. It is, moreover, lighted throughout with gas.
No fewer than 250 gas-lights are now placed at convenient
distances, so as to display its most curious arches and
roofings, and irregularities, and great-size, and incrusted
surfaces. As it may be emphatically said, that this remark-
able cavern was never seen before, either as to its extent, or
its curious characteristics, it may be regretted that it is the
only one of the great natural caverns of the Derbyshire
limestone formation that is so lighted.

K

132

DEITES HEAR BUXTON.

The drives in the neighbourhood of Buxton are likewise
very interesting.

There is a pleasant drive over Fairfield, and by Dove Holes
and Barmoor Clough, to Chapel-en-le-Frith, and thence to
Horwich End, on the Manchester road, and thence to Buxton.
This is a distance of about fourteen miles. If furnished
with a steady horse and strong carriage, to make a steep and
rough road safe, the high road may be left about half a mile
from Chapel-en-le-Frith, and the road taken to Lydgate,
with Bradshaw Hall on the left; and thence, gaining the
high ground close to Eccles Pike, leaving the carriage, and
climbing the ridge, a view of two extensive and beautiful
valleys is obtained; and returning to the carriage the journey
is pursued by Ollerenshaw to Horwich End.

The village of Wormhill is reached by a road across the
Fairfield common, somewhat to the right of the road j ust
mentioned. The carriage may be left on the road near to
Wormhill Hall, while the great rock, Chee Tor, and the
valley which it abuts upon, are being explored. Returning
to the carriage, the road may be followed thence to the end
of Miller’s Dale, opposite to Priest-cliff, whence the return to
Buxton may be by the road which joins the Bakewell road
at the fifth milestone. This presents a very interesting
circuit of about fourteen miles.

An interesting long drive, about twenty-eight miles in
circuit, full of variety as to the objects and scenery, is ob-
tained by following the Ashbourne road from Buxton, until
within a few yards from Brier Low tollgate, between two
and three miles from Buxton ; following the road to the
right, leading through Hind Low tollgate, with the higher
upland of Brier Low on the left, the elevation of which is

Reservoir

miJKSilDffiTjES

ABOUT

/j'OW Race .Stand

2rsxh ly Kemy B Bates

Russia Mere

Coxbaxsnde,

Watford.

tf'Wyf' Rouse
Asylum

0*i A rue;
Jitlvcn hud

Stone Bench
\ ^yc‘ House

Gas Works

STATIONS

Re d^ ate Barns

Ed^Xbof/

\ ~-

Plex. House

Bailer Plat

Silverlands

C attic
Market

Wje |HeacL

Christ

’on. shire

Toll Mar

’poles Cavern'

Tufa Quarry

S'herJuook

Sberbrook

^Eonsc

ifoiiteul

-LiiG.e.JV'prlcs

’l Fox'li

Solomons0

Teinjilc

:ern Mouse

.;ulmanlf<w

/ Tho Credent

2 The Quadrant

3 The Viearttgc

S' Sf'&pTut, Chursll
3 Devonshire Villas

6 Zee Du oil Hofei

7 Corbar Villa.

■9 A'orf/m nod I'oflayt
i) Dri orislure //oust'

10 Corbartfanlt

11 Murbaoe House

12 Jfye House

toufiterscLuV

Heaihru'U Hook

.

DRIVES NEAR BUXTON. 133

1481 feet : the road passing thence under an archway of the
High Peak Railway, and thence, at a higher point, present-
ing views, on the right hand, of the extraordinary, twisted-
looking, pointed, jagged, and irregularly shaped hills, Tor
Rock, Swallow Tor, and Chrome Hill; and, as the road
descends rapidly to the hamlet of Glutton, leaving Earl
Sterndale and High Wheeldon on the left. Near to Glutton,
the road passes through a hold rocky gorge; and imme-
diately beyond Glutton tollgate, the river Dove, here a
stream of inconsiderable size, is crossed by a bridge. The
river, at this place, passes near to the edge of the gritstone
formation, and separates Derbyshire from Staffordshire.
The road continues on the gritstone to Longnor, and thence
to Warslow. The road ascends rapidly from Glutton to
Longnor, and affords a fine view, on the left hand, of the
valley of Aldery, Glutton, or Crowdecote, so called, as to its
different parts, with its gritstone bottoms, and its limestone
hills on the north and east, and gritstone hills on the south
and west. Near to Longnor, the valley of Hollins Clough
is seen from the road, backed by the swelling hill sides, and
sharply defined bill tops, of this part of Staffordshire.
Having passed through Longnor, the road is continued
through interesting and various scenery to Warslow, at
which place the mountain limestone formation is again met
with. Immediately beyond Warslow is the Ecton mining
district, on the limestone formation; the hill sides showing
indications of the extent and importance of the mining
operations which were at one time carried on there. The
Ecton mines yielded, about half a century ago, great quan-
tities ot copper ; and they are still worked on a small scale.
Good specimens of the ores of lead, copper, and zinc, are

134 WETTON LOW AND THOE’s CATE.

readily found. Immediately beyond Ecton the river Mani-
fold, an important tributary of the river Dove, which arises
near to Longnor, and falls into the Dove at Ham, becomes
a stream of some importance, and the course of the river
becomes exceedingly beautiful. From Ecton to Wetton, a
distance of about three miles, the road near to the river side,
although occasionally somewhat rough, is to be followed;
and the clear and bright stream, and the meadowed banks,
and bold valley sides, offer, along the winding course of the
river, some beautiful scenery. On the right, the entrance
to a remarkable cavern, on the side of Wetton Low, is seen
from a considerable distance. The effect of the entrance to
this cavern, as seen from the road, is marred by the regula-
rity of its arch, which is often supposed to have been either
formed or modified by art, and might be mistaken very
readily for a much misplaced work of masonry. From the
part of the road which is nearly opposite to it, the cavern is
readily reached on foot. The arch of the entrance is forty,
feet in width, and it is probably about sixty feet in height.
The entrance is effectively lighted to a considerable depth,
owing to a second entrance on the right, almost as lofty as
the principal entrance, but much narrower; and almost
opposite to this, there is a column of bold massiveness,
supporting arches which extend farther inward; and the
effect of the light, and of the size and proportion of the
arches, on returning to the entrance, is very beautiful. This
cave was carefully examined during the years 1864 and 1865,
under the judicious supervision of the late Mr. Samuel Car-
rington, in the hope of discovering remains of extinct animals,
or anything of antiquarian interest. The flooring of the cave
was found to consist of successive layers of dried mud inter-

WETTON LOW AND THOR’S CAVE. 135

mixed with ashes, animal bones, and fragments of pottery.
In the wide part was found a bed of ashes at the depth of
two feet, in which were many animal bones and potsherds.
At the pillar, below one foot of the mud or clay, was a bed
of charcoal more than one foot in thickness, and under this
at a farther depth of one foot was a second bed of charcoal
of similar thickness ; and beneath this again, and under
another intervening foot of the dried mud, was a third bed
of charcoal ; these beds containing also bones and potsherds,
some curious instruments of iron of indeterminate use, be-
sides arrow heads, knife blades, ornamented implements of
horn, bronze ring-pins, &c. Near to the pillar, a depth of
seven feet seems to have been removed ; and near to the end
of the cave, no less than twenty-seven feet were cleared out,
without evidence of the true or natural floor of the cave
having been reached. It appears to have been an interesting
exploration, worthily undertaken, and honestly carried out.
On leaving the cavern, the Low should be climbed for the
sake of the completely panoramic view from the top, which
can have few equals. The borders of Wales are believed to
be visible on one side, the range of country between Ash-
bourne and Derby is seen on the other side, and the hills
near Longnor on the other, and the country more immediately
around is various and beautiful. A walk of about a mile
leads thence to the village of Wetton, where the carriage
may be conveniently rejoined ; and a drive of about four
miles, through interesting scenery, leads from Wetton to
Beresford and Hartington ; and Beresford Dale should be
seen, if time permit. The return to Buxton, notwithstanding
somewhat rough roads, should be through Sheen to Longnor,
over an upland road, whence there is an extensive view of

136

HIGH WHEELDON. — FLASH.

the scenery that has been passed through, and from which
Longnor, and the whole of the valley of Crowdecote, with
their mountainous surroundings, may be seen to advantage.

Another circuit, of about fourteen miles, is obtained by
again following the Ashbourne road nearly as far as the first
toll-bar, thence turning to the right, passing through Earl
Sterndale, and over the road which skirts the eastern side
of High Wheeldon. The carriage should be left at this
point, and High Wheeldon climbed, for the sake of seeing
the extensive view fl’om the summit of its great and curious
conical elevation ; and then, having returned to the carriage,
the journey is continued, by Crowdecote, to Longnor, re-
turning to Buxton by Glutton Bridge, regaining tho
Ashbourne road at the same poinfj at which it had been left.

The first six miles of the road to Leek present a hilly
road and wild scenery, and from this point the descent pre-
sents views of great extent and much beauty and interest.
Leaving the Leek road about five miles from Buxton, the
small hamlet of Flash, with its church, is soon reached ; and
thence a rapid descent, along a tolerably good road, passing
near to the bank of the river Dane, here a small stream,
although of some beauty in parts of its still early course,
leads to Quarnford, with a bridge across the river Dane, and
thence to the small hamlet of Gradbach. The explorer’s
intention must now be determined. The cai-riage, which
may be eight miles from Buxton, may remain at Gradbach
until the return from Ludchurch and the Castle Bocks ; or
the driver may be directed to return to Quarnford, and thence
drive to the inn at Bramcott, or to the Royal Cottage Inn,
both on the road from Buxton to Leek. The toui-ist walks
westward through Gradbach, passes an old mill, crosses a

CASTLE KOCKS. — LTJDCHTJKCH. ‘

couple of fields, and finds himself in a charming gritstone
valley. There is a wooden bridge across the stream, and the
footpath ascends the opposite hill side into Gradbach planta-
tions, with the Castle Rocks immediately on the west. The
footpath presently leads to a forest road, which is to be
followed about half-a-mile, until the Castle Rocks are almost
reached. These rocks are a curious and commanding land-
mark, which will have been visible all the way from Flash,
and form one of the bold features of this remarkable distiict
of country. From the vicinity of the Castle Rocks, the
whole of the valley, with its wooded steeps, jutting masses
of rock, and the view in the direction of Flash, are seen to
advantage. Thence a road branches to the south-east, and
presently leads to the commencement of the rocky wonders
of what has long been locally known under the name of
Ludchurch. Placed near to the western extremity of a very
extensive district of moorlands, uplands, and ancient forests,
and offering the means of shelter and concealment to outlaws
and disaffected people, the name may have been given to it
as affording a natural sanctuary to criminals and rebels.
Tradition assigns to Ludchurch the services of Friar Tuck
in the presence of Robin Hood and his merry men ; and there
is every probability that, throughout the historical periods,
these rocks and caverns have been, from time to time, the
resort and shelter of those who had become placed in any
way beyond the pale of the laws. The entrance is almost
enarched by inclining rocks, leading to an almost circular
first compartment, surrounded by bold rocky masses of con-
siderable height ; the path conducting from this down some
rude time-worn steps to a long and narrow way with lofty
sides of abrupt and rugged rock, adorned here and there

138

LTTDCHURCH.

with lichen and moss and tufts of fern and other vegetation.
This rocky defile extends in the south-easterly direction, and
is left at the farther end by a flight of rugged steps.*
There are fissures of considerable depth at the bases of the
cliffs. The whole shows evidence of remote volcanic action.
The opposite sides of the defile show in many places that
they have been torn from one another by this gigantic power,
fracturing their rigid substance, and only no longer allowing
a linear re-adjustment if the detached surfaces were brought
together again, owing to the wearing effects of ages after
ages of time and weather. From the south-eastern ex-
tremity of these rocky eminences, and from the summit of
the still higher moorland elevation immediately beyond, is
obtained a good view of the plantations and valley of Grad-
bach ; and from the west of these uplands there is an
extensive view of Cheshire scenery, with the park and woods
of Swithamley in the foreground, and Congleton and the hills
and valleys of Cheshire in the distance ; and, in extremely
clear weather, with the neighbourhood of Chester and the
Welsh hills on the western horison. A track or pathway
conducts over the summit of a long ridge of rocks in the
same south-easterly direction, commanding views on both
sides. At a distance of a mile or less from Ludehurch, these
rocky summits begin to assume the strange shapes and
characters which have long given to them the distinctive
name of the Roches. Extending along a distance of several
miles, the rocky summits varying in shape, in surface, and in

* Mr. Sleigh, in his History of Leek, says that Ludehurch is by measure
208 yards long, and from 40 to 50 feet deep, the sides of which so overhang
that snow often remains therein through the Bummer. “Whereof was a
signal proof on Leek fair-day, the 17th July, at which time a Wharnford
man brought a sack of snow there, and pour’d it down at the mercat cross,
saying I could help thee to a hundred loads.” — Dr. Plot's History of Stafford-
shire, 1686.

THE EOCHES. — MONSAL DALE.

139

size ; some of them being channelled with the winds and the
rains of hundreds of years ; others evidently corresponding
exactly to masses at a distance of yards apart from them ;
while view after view of the less elevated country is obtained
throughout the whole extent; will be admitted to render this
one of the most interesting expeditions even in this neigh-
bourhood. A little attention to the map of the district will
show the possibility of returning from the whole or from any
part of this expedition, either through Gradbach, or by the
Royal Cottage Inn, or by Bramcott, at discretion.

Six miles on the road to Macclesfield, near to the roadside
inn, the “ Cat and Piddle,” is the very remarkable view
already mentioned over Lancashire and Cheshire, which
probably extends over a distance of fifty miles.

A very beautiful long drive is obtained, by leaving the
Bakewell road, near to the fifth milestone, — proceeding
thence by the road to Miller’s Dale, — keeping on the lower
road near to the river, as far as Litton Mill, — passing thence
over Cram-side to Cressbrook, and thence into Monsal Dale;
and, at the part where Monsal Dale bends suddenly to the
west, either remaining with the carriage and leaving the
valley scenery, and proceeding in the carriage to Ashford,
and thence to Buxton,— or leaving the carriage at the bend
of the valley, and crossing the river, to ramble through the
remainder of Monsal Dale, and regain the Bakewell road,
and rejoin the carriage after it has made the circuit by
Ashford, opposite to the eighth milestone from Buxton.

Bakewell, Chatsworth, Haddon Hall, Matlock, Tideswell,
Eyam, Middleton Dale, Castleton, Beresford Dale, and Dove
Dale, form severally, as will have been already inferred, most
interesting objects for excursions from Buxton; and the most

140

ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE HIGH PEAK.

distant of them can hardly he said to he beyond the limits
of a long day’s drive. Middleton Dale, about twelve miles
from Buxton, is a limestone valley of considerable beauty.

Sheffield is twenty-six, Chesterfield twenty-three, Not-
tingham thirty-five, and Ashbourne twenty miles from
Buxton.

The many and various archaeological remains in the
different parts of the district, also supply interesting objects
for excursions. This mountain range of country must have
had, in most ancient times, a degree of importance that may
be conceived with difficulty, when seen through the vista of
the historical periods of time : when life and property were
insecure, when the morasses of districts on lower levels were
undrained and unhealty, when the means of subsistence
were obtained chiefly from the chase and from the flocks,
when the whole land was but thinly peopled, when lead
mines and forest lands would add to the employment-finding
capabilities of this mountain district, it is probable that it
was at least as fully peopled as other parts of the Midland
Counties; and it might be expected that, at least, the local
landmarks of names, and the vestiges of such of the ruder
constructions of the period, as might be large enough to
defy the destroying influence of time, would be found scat-
tered here and there. And, accordingly, although the map
of the district so ably and so accurately constructed by the
Royal Engineers, under the Board of Ordnance, was by
no means primarily intended to afford instruction in such
matters, the frequent occurrence of such names as Pike
Low, Knight’s Low, Bee Low, Arbor Low, High Low,
Great Low, Nine Ladies, Andie Stone, Rowtor Rocks, King’s
Stone, Stone Barrow, and Tumuli, in many districts and

i

ARBOR LOW.

141

positions,— and of snch words as goit, dough, tor, gill,
slack, &c., — serve to mark places where those persons who
prize such ancient records, may expect to meet with materials
for investigation.

Of such remains, probably the most interesting and perfect
is Arbor Low, which has been called “ The Great Druidical
Temple of North Derbyshire,” and is the site and only
record of what was, in all likelihood, one of the rude but
massive constructions for the barbarous religious purposes
of the ancient inhabitants of this country. Similar gigantic
ruins are found elsewhere : as the one on Salisbury Plain
(Stonehenge), and the one near Avebury, likewise in Wilt-
shire. The ancient circle of stones at Arbor Low is on the
left-hand side of the turnpike road from Buxton to Ash-
bourne, beyond Parsley Hay, about nine miles from Buxton*
It will be found without difficulty by following the road to
the left from Parsley Hay, a little beyond the eighth mile-
stone from Buxton, and then following the first road to the
right, about half a mile. The remains with the embank-
ment will be noticed on the top of the second upland field
on the right : consisting of a circle of large unhewed stones,
rough, most of them from six to eight feet long, and three
or four feet broad in the widest part, but of variable thick-
ness, and extremely irregular shape. There may probably
be said to be, at the present time, about thirty in number ;
but this may be doubtful, as several of them have evidently
been broken. These are blocks of limestone ; and they are
all now lying upon the ground ; many of them in an oblique
position. Within the circle are some smaller stones, scattered
ii regularly ; and near the centre are three larger stones,
conjectured by some, probably without sufficient reason, to

142

ARBOR LOW.

have formed part of a cromlech, or altar. The circle is
surrounded by a deep ditch, outside of which is a mound,
hank, or vallum. The area encompassed by the ditch is
about fifty yards in diameter ; the width of the ditch is
about five yards ; and the height of the vallum, although
probably much reduced by time, is still from four to six
yards. The whole circumstance is cemputed to be about
270 yards. There are two entrances to the area, of the
width of several yards, opening towards the north and south.
Numbers of the stones which originally formed this ancient
structure have gradually become buried under the accumu-
lations of hundreds of yeai’s. The irregular surface of the
whole area, and some stones only partly covered over, prove
the truth of this statement. It is confirmed by the well
known circumstances that all ancient constructions become
thus buried in tbe course of ages. Successive cities are
found to have been built upon tbe present site of London ;
and the ancient city of Uriconium,near Shrewsbury, has been
passed over by the plough ; and Nineveh, and other cities of
bygone histories and people, are discovered at considerable
depths below the surface. The wonder may well be, that
the ancient circle of Arbor Low should have been left, so
far as it is, unburied, after the lapse of more than two thou-
sand years ; that its vallum should still be tracable, and its
fosse not entirely filled. This may be mainly due to its
position on a rock, grass-grown, and sequestered upland.

A harrow of extreme antiquity, on the eastern side of the
southern entranco, was opened by the late Mr. Bateman, in
the year 1845, and confirmed the ancient character of the
whole adjacent structures. The tumulus was cut across,
from the south side to the centre, and a shoulder blade and

ANCIENT TUMULI OE BAEEOWS.

143

antler of the large red deer were found in the excavation -r
and beneath the highest part of the tumulus a flat slone was
discovered, about five feet long by three feet wide, lying
horizontally ; on removing which a small six-sided cavity
was exposed, formed by ten stones, and having a flooring of
three similar stones neatly jointed. Within this space was
found a quantity of calcined human bones, and also a rude
kidney-shaped instrument made of flint, a pin made from,
the leg-bone of a small deer, and a piece of spherical iron
pyrites. At the west end were also found two urns of coarse
clay : the one of rude form ; the other of a beautiful artistic
shape. As an illustration of the contents of the tumuli or
ancient barrows in this district, the description is interesting ;
but more particularly as adding to the evidence of the anti-
quity of the remarkable circle at Arbor Low. In some of
these tumuli there have been found one or more human
skeletons, more or less entire, together with urns, vases,
incense-cups, drinking-cups, spear-heads, necklaces, enamels,
&e. : some of them of extremely tasteful character and
design, while evidencing the rude means of their manufac-
ture. About quarter of a mile to the west of this Arbor
Low circle is a conical tumulus, known under the name of
Gib Hill, which is connected with the vallum of the circle
by raised earth, and has been likened to what is called the
avenue of the great ancient circle at Avebury.

There is also a small stone circle, probably of similar an-
tiquity and character, on Harthill Moor, between Winster
and Youlgreave, in a field called Nine Stone Close. The
circle is obout 13 yards in diameter, and now consists of only
seven rough and irregular stones ; the largest being about
eight feet in length, and nine feet in circumference. On

J.44 ANCIENT CIECLES. — BOOKING STONES.

Stanton Moor also, between Winster and Rowsley, there is a
smaller circle, eleven yards in diameter, called the Nine
Ladies, consisting of nine stones, from three to four feet in
height ; near to which are several harrows, most of which
have been examined. At the east end of Abney Moor, ad-
joining High Low Moor, is also a small circle of stones,
thirty-three feet in diameter, surrounding four larger up-
right stones, the whole enclosed within a vallum. On Eyam
Moor, on Froggatt Edge, and on Hathersage Moor, are still
the remains of smaller circles, with tumuli or barrows
evidently connected with them.

Rightly or wrongly, many isolated rocks of fantastic
shape, or noticeable from some peculiarity of character,
have been described by writers of different periods as being
archmologically interesting, and as possibly having been used
in the worship of the aboriginal inhabitants of Britain.
Such are the rocks called Rowter or Rooter rocks, or rocking
stones, near Winster. Mr. Bateman describes them as being
“a remarkable assemblage of rocks, which extends in length
between seventy and eighty yards, and rises to the height of
about forty or fifty yards. Near the east end is a large
block of an irregular shape, which several writers have
noticed as a rocking stone, which could be shaken by the
hand ; now, however, it requires the whole strength to put
it in motion, through having been forced from its equilibrium
by the mischievous efforts of fourteen young men, who
assembled for that purpose -on Whit Sunday, in the year
1799. It has been restored to its former situation, but the
exact balance it once possessed is entirely destroyed. Its
height is about ten feet, and its circumference in the widest
part is about thirty; its base has a somewhat convex form}

HOCKING STONES.

145

and the rock on which it stands appears to have been
hollowed to receive it. At a little distance northward, is a
second rocking stone, not very dissimilar to an egg laid on
one side, which may be moved by the strength of a single
finger, though twelve feet in length, and fourteen in girth.
More directly north is another rocking- stone, resembling
the latter both in figure and facility of motion, and at the
west end are seven stones piled one over another, various in
size and form, but two or three very large, all of which may
be shaken by the pressure of the hand : the effect being
produced by the application of the hand to various points.
Nearly a quarter of mile west of Row Tor rocks is another
assemblage of large rocks, called Bradley Tor ; on the upper
part of which is a rocking stone thirty-two feet in circum-
ference, of an orbicular shape, and raised above the ground
by two stones, having a passage between them. Near the
south-west side of Stanton Moor is an elevated ridge, which
rises into three craggy eminences, respectively named Cardiff
Rocks, Craned Tor, and Durwood Tor, upon all which are
excavations or cavities, imagined to be rock basins, and no
doubt produced by natural causes.”

Referring the reader for additional information on these
ancient remains to the work of the late Mr. Bateman, it may
be added that a second work was published by him in the
year 1861, entitled “Ten Years’ Diggings in Celtic and Saxon
Grave Hills:” the barrows opened by him, or found to have
been previously opened and emptied, having been found in all
parts of the upland district around Buxton; including Buxton
and Fairfield, Ladmanlow, Pigtor, Stadon, Woolow, Eildon
Hill, Longnor, Hollinsclough, Warslow, Ecton, Wetton,
Haitington, Sheen, Middleton, Youlgreave,Hopton, Chester-

146

CONTENTS OF ANCIENT TUMULI.

field, Bakewell, Ashford, Eyam, and Tideswell. Sometimes
there were found entire human skeletons ; with or without
urns, which in some instances contained burned bones, in
others were empty. The skeletons were somtimes found in
a sitting position, but more usually lying on one side, and
much doubled up, so as to occupy a smaller space. The
interiors of the barrows were formed of rough stones, placed,
side by side, or end to end, so as to form a flooring and
sides, with two or three flat stones laid loosely over the top.
Such instruments or ornaments as beads, chain-work, spear-
heads, daggers, swords, celts, axes, arrow-heads, cups, &c.,
formed of bronze, iron, gold, glass, flint, and bones, being
occasionally met with in these ancient tombs. The number
of the localities mentioned will serve to prove the statement
that the district around Buxton must have been peopled in
remote times; and perhaps more particularly the district on
the south-east, of Buxton. The times referred to are ante-
cedent to other trustworthy historical records that ean be
gathered from the burial places of the people, or from the
rude circles of unhewn stones that seem to have been to
some degree indestructible by time.

As coeval with the Roman period of our history, Mr.
Bennett, of Chapel-en-le-Frith, describes in “The Reliquary,”
an ancient embanked course, which he considers to have been
formed during the time when Britain was occupied by the
Romans, and to have been intended for the chariot races,
and similar sports, known to have been so much in use
during the later centuries of the great Roman Empire.
“At the distance of half-a-mile north-east of Whaley Bridge,
in the parish of Chapel-en-le-Frith, upon the estate of
Thomas Guy Gisborne, Esq., and near to Horwich House,

EHEDAGUA AT HOEWICH END.

147

is one of these Rhedagua. It has always borne the name
of Roosdyche, and is now in a very perfect state of preser-
vation, and might, at this moment, over a considerable part
of it, be used as a race-course. It is an artificially formed
valley, averaging in width 40 paces, or 83 Druid cubits, and
1300 paces, 2228 Druid cubits, in length. It is in a
great measure cut out of the side of the hill, to a depth of
from ten to thirty feet, but where it is not so, it is enclosed
on both sides with banks of earth. The sides of that part
which has been excavated are covered with oak and other
trees, which form a noble avenue, and invest it with a majes-
tic and sombre character. At the east end of tlio course is
the goal, and at the west end are the remains of the metce,
and other tumuli, and also several other valleys, of smaller
dimensions than the Rhedagua, where it is probable the
chariots and horses, not actually occupied in the race, were
placed until their turn arrived to engage in the noble strife.
The spectators were doubtless ranged upon the sides or
banks, on each side of the course, all along its length ; and
many thousands might easily have found accommodation.”

It is curious that such a cursus should also have been
found in connection with the great ancient circle at Stone-
henge ; and this might occasion a doubt whether the cursus
should not be referred to a still earlier date than that of the
Roman occupation of the country ; and yet it is not difficult
to suppose that the site for public games and sports might
have been fixed near to that of structures which would have
been resorted to by the people, perhaps during many previous
centuries. Leaving the road from Buxton to Whaley, at
Horwich End, and following the road to Chapel-en-le-Frith
for a very short distarc0, a steep narrow and curved road to

L

148 BUXTON CHURCHES AND CHAPELS.

the left is to be followed, which soon leads to this ancient
cursus. A wall that has been built across the course may be
reasonable matter of regret ; Mr. Bennett’s description will
be found to be by no means overdrawn ; and the view from
the top of the southern embankment is rather pretty and
extensive.

With the exception of what may be gathered from the
details already given, Buxton and the townships immediately
around it may be said to be destitute of either buildings or
other remains of archaeological interest, or even of mediaeval
antiquity. The Old Hall Hotel is the only building, any
part of which can be said to be more than two hundred years
old, unless an older date can be assigned to a small church
in the higher part of the town, called the Old Church, which
had been long used as a schoolroom until it was restored in
the year 1840, by the kindness of the late Duke of Devon-
shire. The date of this church is unknown; but it can
hardly be sufficiently old to give importance to any inquiry.
There is in existence a brass plate, bearing the date 1674,
containing a list of benefactors towards the salary of the
schoolmaster, and towards the repairs of certain highways.
There was a chapel, dedicated to St. Ann, in connection with
the baths and wells, before the time of the Eeformation ;
and there were records and valuable memorials preserved in
it ; but these were all destroyed, together with so much else
throughout the kingdom, the loss of which is irreparable.

It may perhaps be conveniently stated here, that, in
addition to this small, and comparatively old church, there
is St. John’s Church : a costly building, without either
ecclesiastical character, or architectural consistency ; there
is the church at Fairfield, re-built in 1839; there is the

BUXTON CHUECHES AND CHAPELS. 149

church of Burbage, a small but very pretty church, of Nor-
man architecture, with a peal of bells, erected in 1861 ; and
there are Wesleyan chapels in Buxton, Fairfield, and Bur-
bage ; a very handsome building, with a spire, called the
Congregational Church, belonging to the Independents ; and
a small neat Gothic chapel, belonging to the Roman Catholics.
There is also a small chapel at the top of the Hall Bank,
with the date 1725, belonging to the Unitarians. There is,
in St. John’s Church, a very handsome pulpit of alabaster
and marble, erected in 1867, from designs by Mr. Henry
Currey, to the memory of Bishop Spencer. There are also,
in this church, handsome mural monuments to the memory
of Mr. Smithers and Mr. Wilmot, successive agents to the
Duke of Devonshire’s estates in the district of Buxton. A
third church, St. James’s Church, has been recently erected.
It supplies accommodation to seven hundred persons, and
all the seats are free and unappropriated. It is a pleasing
ecclesiastical structure, notwithstanding that the architect’s
design has been thus far left without the spire. It was
designed by Messrs. Taylor, of Manchester, and does them
great credit. Both exterior and interior are full of careful
and well-considered detail. It is situated uear to the west
end of the Cavendish Terrace, or the Broad Walk, and very
near to the Old Church, which is now used as a mortuary
chapel.

CHAPTER III.

EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES OE LIMESTONE AND GRITSTONE
FORMATIONS. — CLIMATE. — THE BUXTON SEASON.

£|'HE mountain-limestone formation, to winch the dis-
H trict of the High Peak of Derbyshire owes so
much of its character, is of considerable extent. Its greatest
length, from the Blue John Mine, near Castleton, which is
on its extreme margin on the north, to Sally Moor (near
Wootton, about two miles to the noi’th of Alton Towers),
the extreme margin on the south, is nearly twenty-three
miles, Its greatest width is from twelve to fourteen miles ;
the narrowest part, from Middleton-by-Youlgreave to Har-
tington, is five miles across, These measurements are given
geographically, without reference to the windings of roads.
The average addition of one-sixth will give a sufficiently
near approximation to the distances by the roads.

Buxton is on the north-western margin of the limestone
formation ; and its boundaries may be readily traced from
thence. Pairfield and its common are likewise on the margin
of this formation ; the higher grounds of Corbar and Black
Edge being on the gritstone. The Water Swallows, at Dove
Holes, are on the edge of the limestone. The road from
thence to Castleton passes very near to the margin of this
formation ; the Blue John Mine, to the right of the road, at
the upper end of Hope Dale, as has been said, being on the
limestone formation : and Mam Tor, on the immediate left.

LIMESTONE AND GKITSTONE FORMATIONS. 151

and the whole of the districts of Chapel-en-le- Frith, Glossop,
Kinderscout, and Edale, being beyond this formation. The
town of Castleton is beyond the edge of the limestone ; and
consequently, the great cavern of the Peak is on its very
margin. Middleton Dale is near to its margin ; Evam,
Stony Middleton, Baslow, and Bubnell, are beyond its mar-
gin. Bakewell and Ashford are on the limestone, but close
to its margin. The Yale of Haddon, Rowsley, Edensor, and
Chatsworth, are beyond the limestone margin. Youlgreave
and the adjacent hamlets of Middleton, Elton, and Winster,
are on the margin of the limestone. The village of Matlock
is on the adjoining formation ; Matlock Bath and its valley
are on the limestone formation, but close to its margin.
The villages of Brassington and Tissington are on the edge
of the limestone formation. The considerable hill, Thorpe
Cloud, at the southern extremity of Dove Dale, is on the
edge of the limestone. Ilam Flail is on the margin of this
formation.

The limestone formation is surrounded by the great for-
mation of millstone grit, interrupted occasionally by limestone
shale ; and this formation surrounds the limestone, in almost
all directions, with ground of higher elevation than its own
high level ; the difference sometimes amounting to between
eight and nine hundred feet. The gritstone formation is
particularly extensive on the north and west sides, but gives
a boundary to the limestone formation of several miles in
breadth on the east. On the south, there is a very narrow
and irregular edging of gritstone, which separates the
limestone from the new red sandstone formation.

The climate of the district is necessarily much affected
by the physical conditions which have now been shown to

152

CLIMATE OE THE HIGH PEAK.

obtain throughout this extensive tract of elevated country *
and which extends from Buxton to an average distance of
from twelve to twenty miles, in all directions.

The elevation of the lowest part of Buxton may be said
to be 1,000 feet above the level of the sea, the level of St.
John’s Church having been ascertained to be 1,029§ feet.
The mean density of the air is by so much less than it is in
most places. In the words of Mr. Whitehurst, “The column
of quicksilver in the barometer tube is always an inch lower
at Buxton than at Derby, at the same time and under similar
circumstances.” This difference in the degree of atmospheric
pressure has much effect on the human system ; and renders
the removal of invalids to this district from places that are
situated at a lower level, either eminently advisable or other-
wise, according to the nature or the stage of the ailment.
The effect of a change to this mountain air, on comparatively
healthy people, is exciting and invigorating, — promoting cir-
culation, appetite, and digestion, and increasing the buoyancy
of the feelings and the general energies of the system. In
the instance of the invalided, the probability of sucb excite-
ment, the degree of which may be increased by the mobility
which so often attends severe or long- continued morbid
action, may render inadvisable the removal to such an air as
that of Buxton. This observation is more especially likely
to be applicable to those who are suffering from more acute
morbid states ; and especially when attended by much
mobility of circulation, and great susceptibility of tissue.
On the other hand, the mere debility and relaxation, which
are so often consequent upon the removal or mitigation of
acute disorders ; and the mixture of debility] and congestive
torpidity, which so often accompanies protracted convales-

CLIMATE AND SANITARY CHARACTER. 153

cence, and so often attends protracted indisposition of
chronic character, are much relieved by removal to the
thinner and less oppressive air of this elevated district.

The physical character of this mountain country may
help to explain the comparative immunity, which is enjoyed
by its inhabitants, from epidemic and endemic diseases. The
dry and absorbent soil, which distinguishes almost the whole
of the limestone formation, and the greater part of the grit-
stone formation, — assisted, as this is, by their elevated posi-
tion,— must conduce much to this result, by diminishing the
amount of stagnant water, and other sources of miasmatous
impurity. Even the ordinary exanthematous epidemics —
measles, scarlatina, and the like — are usually of singularly
mild character in this district ; and typhus, and even com-
mon continued fever, rarely, occurs, unless when brought
into the district by persons who have been sojourning in less
favoured places ; and when thus met with, has very seldom
been known to have extended to a second case. It has to be
said, moreover, that no case of epidemic cholera has occurred
in Buxton during any of the visitations of this fearful disease.

If all this were truly written when the present work was
first issued, or so long ago as the year 1838, when the work
entitled “ Buxton and its Waters ” was first published, it
may be hoped that more confidence must be felt as to the
sanitary condition of Buxton, Fairfield, and Burbage, since
they have been placed within the provisions of the Act for
the Local Government of Towns, and since, in connection
with this important measure, the main sewerage and drainage
of the place have been so far secured, under the able direction
and superintendence of Mr. Rawlinson. There is only too
good reason for the opinion, that intestinal or typhoid fever.

154 SANITARY CHARACTER OF THE BUXTON DISTRICT.

with all its disastrous consequences, depends on the poison
of sewage emanations ; and the only security against this
fearful risk to health and life, must be derived from the
complete manner in which such impurities are at once re-
moved from houses, streets, and drains. It were well, if a
security of this important kind could be obtained for every
town and village in the kingdom ; and if such a measure, in
the local and national interest, could be forced upon every
tenement, whether in town or in country districts. It were
at least well, if every watering-place, the resort of the toil-
worn for recreation, or of invalids in search of health, were
compelled to present such a diploma for the security of its
visitors ; and it were at least wise and prudent, that no such
watering-place should be visited, until after such inquiry as
to its sanitary character had been made, and been replied to
satisfactorily. There is no doubt, that one effect of change
of air is to increase the sensitiveness of the animal system,
to render it more susceptible to all external influences,
whether morbific or otherwise ; and that it is therefore more
important, if such were possible, that there should be no
poisonous taint in the air of a place resorted to for change of
scene, or the use of a mineral water, than that there should
be no such taint in the air to which use may have habituated
the individual system. The wretched prisoners, who breathed,
during weeks or months, the mephitic air of the gaols, in
the mediaeval times, often escaped an attack of the disease,
which they carried with them in their clothes, to spread the
seeds of disease and death through the courts where they
were tried, or the houses to which they returned on their
acquittal ; and sailors have often escaped the fever or the
dysentery, to the risks of which they had been exposed

SANITARY EFFECT OF ELEVATION. 155

during a voyage in an impure sliip, to carry pestilence to
the inhabitants of the town at which they have landed.

The bearing which the high elevation of Buxton above the
level of the sea appears to have upon the probability of its
exemption from cholera is very interesting and curious. It
was announced by Mr. Farr, in the admirable report on
cholera for 1849, and has been since confirmed by farther
statistical experience, that the mortality from this dreadful
malady increases as the level of places in an affected district
is lower ; and not only that localities of higher level have a
less liability to the disease, but that the degree of immunity
may be measured by the degree of the elevation. This law
must be liable to contradiction or disturbance under very
powerful local exciting- and predisposing circumstances, and
would not be held to justify in any case the neglect of the
common principles and conditions of public hygiene; but it
is curious as a great truth, derived from extensive statistical
data, and interesting in regard to the climatorial and hygienic
character of the Buxton district. And this may help to
explain the observation, that influenza is believed to have
been a much milder ailment in Buxton than in most other
places, both as to its immediate severity, and its ulterior
consequences. The importance of this could hardly be over-
stated, when it is remembered how much more frequently
the visitations of this great catarrhal epidemic have occurred
of late years ; and that they are believed, either directly or
indirectly, to have resulted in a greater amount of fatality
than any other epidemic disease. In forming an estimate of
the degree of fatality which attends influenza, “It is neces-
sary , as the late Dr. Theophilus Thompson well said, in the
able volume compiled by him for the Sydenham Society,

156

SANITARY EFFECT OF ELEVATION.

entitled “Annals of Influenza,” “to extend our consideration
to the fact that during- the prevalence of epidemic catarrhal
fever, the mortality is usually increased, often to a very re-
markable degree. The cause of influenza, independently of
its agency in producing characteristic symptoms, appearing
to exert a power to modify any pre-existing disease with
which it may combine, to impair extensively the vital energy,
so as to increase in the population of an infected district, the
liability to contract other diseases, and also to lessen the
ability to resist any degree of fatal tendency which such
concurrent diseases may possess.” Such is, beyond all ques-
tion, the explanation of much of the indirect fatality, which
is referable to all the more severe epidemic diseases. To
form a true estimate of their effects, the mortality that can
be directly estimated must be considerably added to. And
when it is considered that, according to the able and trust-
worthy reports of the Registrar-General, nearly one-fifth of
the total mortality of England is referred to “epidemic,
endemic, and contagious diseases,” too much importance can
hardly be attached to the physical and sanitary character of
any locality, in which a considerable degree of exemption may
be obtained from these fatally influential classes of disease.
If the mortality from all such diseases may be estimated,
with much probability, to be in the ratio of one in twenty of
those who are attacked, the smaller amount of sickness, pro-
tracted indisposition, and resulting debility, which a large
degree of exemption secures to the inhabitants of this district,
in addition to the lower rate of the probable mortality, de-
serves to be prominently mentioned in this work. It cannot
be disputed that a remarkably high average of health is
enjoyed by the inhabitants of this district; the generally

SANITARY EFFECT OF DRAINAGE.

157

healthy aspects of the children are the subject of frequent
observation ; and the large number of people who live to an
advanced age has always been noticed. Such popular statis-
tics, however, if unfounded on precise data, are not to be
received with implicit trust ; but that there is an important
degree of exemption from endemic and epidemic diseases,
that they are generally of comparatively mild character when
they do oecur, and that all disease throughout the district is
commonly of very mild and simple type, is the universal
experience of the medical residents.

But positive data exist in regard to the sanitary character
of the Buxton district, and these have been already recorded
in the earlier part of this work. It is reasonable to expect
that these results will’. become of still more satisfactory char-
acter, as the effect of the main drainage and sewerage of'
the Buxton district, in the year 1860. In regard to the
sanitary condition of the town and district, in regard to the
comparative immunity from epidemic and endemic disease,
in regard to general healthiness and probable longevity, the
inhabitants have indeed much for which to be thankful ; and
in regard to the climatorial and hygienic conditions offered
by the district to occasional residents, and more especially in
regard to the desirability of the district as a resort for the
purposes of health or recreation, by the residents of the less
elevated and more populous districts, no stronger testimony
can be adduced than is to be derived from the facts and
figures of such statistical investigations.

The mountain position of Buxton and the surrounding
districts renders the whole locality colder than lower situa-
tions in the same latitude. The inland position, moreover,
renders the mean annual temperature less equable than in

158

CLIMATE OF THE HIGH PEAK.

places which are more within the influences of the oceanic
temperature. There are two circumstances which deduct
considerably from these disadvantages. The one of these is
the degree of shelter from prevailing winds, which is afforded
by surrounding grounds which have a still higher elevation.
There is an appreciable difference of temperature between the
upper and lower parts of Buxton in cold weather, and more
especially if accompanied by high winds, blowing from the
north or north-east ; and there is a much greater difference
of temperature between Buxton and the surrounding villages,
which are less sheltered. But within these forty years
many hundreds of acres have been covered with plantations,
now of an advanced and important growth ; which serve, not
only to clothe and embellish the scenery of this large-featured
country, but to shelter it from the winds in an important
degree. The second modifying circumstance referred to is
the relative dryness of the air of a place, which greatly sub-
tracts from the effects of an absolute lowness of temperature.
Dr. Kilgour says that “cold moist air, compared with cold
dry air, abstracts caloric from the body in the ratio of three
hundred and thirty to eighty degrees,” or more than four
times as rapidly. In other words, the chilling effect of the
cold moist air is four times greater than that of cold dry air ;
and therefore the absolute lowness of temperature at Buxton,
compared with the temperature of less elevated places, may
be sometimes fully, if not more than compensated, by the
dryness of its atmosphere. The dry air of the Buxton dis-
trict is one of the most interesting of its characteristics : it
is in general singularly free from fogs and exhalations, and
remarkably clear ; enabling the objects of distant scenery to
be seen with most defined distinctness. This is partly due

CLIMATE OE THE HIGH PEAK. ISO'

to the altitude of the place; partly, to the attraction of the
clouds and condensed vapours in the higher regions of the
air, by the more elevated grounds in the neighbouihood ;
and partly, to the comparatively small amount of aqueous
exhalation, charged with organic contamination, owing to
the absorbent nature of the limestone and gritstone soils.
It should likewise be said, that immediately after the heaviest
rains, the grounds and walks and roads in the town and
neighbourhood are found to be dry to a degree which excites
the surprise of all strangers. And, therefore, although, as
in most mountain districts, more rain falls in the High Peak
of Derbyshire than in most places of less elevation, the effeet
of the rain is less observable or inconvenient. But the
Buxton district does not receive the whole of the rain, which
its mountains may be the means of collecting. It is some-
times observable, that clouds which are collected around Axe
Edge are precipitated on the adjacent districts of Cheshire
and Lancashire, when there is no rain near Buxton. The
enclosure of thousands of acres, which were unenclosed and
bare of pasture within the memory of the present generation,,
and the drainage of extensive districts for agricultural pur-
poses, are progressively influencing the climate and scenic
character of these upland districts. It is almost difficult to-
imagine how recently a large proportion of the country
around Buxton, and within many miles of it on all sides, was
without an enclosure, and covered with heath, gorse, and
rank vegetation, the trees having been as yet unplanted
which now so much embellish the landscape in all directions.

The beneficial effects of the air of Buxton upon some of
the invalids who resort to it cannot be wholly explained even
on the ground of its mountain elevation, or on that of its

160 EFFECT OF LIMESTONE ON THE ATMOSPHERE.

dryness. It sometimes happens that invalids from the
neighbouring- gritstone districts, of an elevation at least as
considerable as that of Buxton, are more benefited, and more
rapidly benefited by removal to the limestone formation
than the mere change of air, or any other concomitant cir-
cumstances can serve to explain. There is indeed usually
an amount of stimulating effect produced by the limestone
atmosphere upon those not accustomed to it, which neither
the elevation of the place, nor the dryness of the air, can be
held to explain. It frequently happens that invalids, who
are strangers to the place and district, and who state that
the remark has not been derived from any second person’s
suggestion, affirm explicitly that they can smell the air of
the limestone. On inquiry, it has seemed that they have
experienced a tingling sensation in the nostrils from the air,
rather than that the air has been really odorous to them.
That there may be important atmospheric differences, which
are not appreciable by chemical re-agents, is universally
admitted ; and it is not too much to suppose that the air
may be influenced by passing over or resting upon extensive
districts, either according to their vegetative surface, or their
geological character. There is some such effect produced on
the air of this district by the great limestone formation;
and the result of this is, more particularly, to add to its
stimulating influence on the human system.

The spring in Buxton is unusually late, and proportionably
short; the summer is of the average duration; and the
autumn is long. The spring can seldom be said to have crept
from the arms of winter until the month of April ; and, in
general, April is near its close before the winter can be said
‘to be fairly got rid of. From the middle of May to the end

THE SEASONS IN THE HIGH PEAK.

1G1

of October, — and in some seasons until considerably later, and
almost to the end of the year, — may be said to constitute
the real spring, summer, and autumn of Buxton. July and
September are apt to be wet months throughout England.
The latter end of May, the whole of June, of August, and of
October, are usually the least changeable periods of the year.

The Buxton waters, whether used as baths or internally,
are equally efficacious at all periods of the year ■* and those
who are suffering severely from those ailments in the relief
of which they act so powerfully, make use of them at any
time throughout the year. But people who have a choice,
generally prefer the summer and autumnal months for
migrating to watering-places ; for the obvious reasons, that
the country always looks best when nature has donned her
livery, when the sun is bright, and the weather warm ; and
that exercise, which is so valuable an auxiliary to all medicinal
treatment in chronic cases, can then be taken most pleasantly,
and perhaps with most advantage, It is difficult, however,
to understand, why Buxton should not be as full in its in-
valided visitors in June and July, as it is in August and
September. This may have arisen from fashion and secondary
■circumstances; but time and common sense must one day
show its absurdity. The comparatively cold evenings and
mornings of autumn, and the greatly shortened days, render
the exercise which can be taken at this time of the year, less
continuous than that which may be taken in the later spring
months and the summer months, and make the disposal of
his time irksome to many an invalid, in whom indisposition

. ,, The usual season for drinking the waters is from the beginning of May,
o e latter end of October ; but if the patient requires a longer perseverance,
emay safely use them all the winter, as thoy are found, upon repeated trials,
to jo equally good m all seasons.”— Hr. Hunter’s ‘ Buxton Manuel, or Treatise,
on the nature and virtues of the Waters of Buxton,” York, 17G5.

162

THE BUXTON SEASON.

may have spoiled the taste of reading, and for whom the
excitement of much society may be necessarily disadvanta-
geous. When invalids visit Buxton during the months of
June or July, the days being then long, and dusk and bed-
time but little divided from one another, the cheerfulness is
more likely to be maintained, and the spirits and feelings
made conducive to the effects of the mineral waters, rather
than suffered tfl interfere with them ; for it need not he said
that the influence of the mind upon the body, at all times
paramount, is more especially important for good or for evil
when the latter is affected with disease.

I have used the word “ continuous ” with reference to
exercise ; and it may be well to embrace this opportunity of
expressing my opinion, that every one, and invalids especially,
should take the quantum of exercise, not only regularly, but
in divided doses, at different times of the day, rather than
endeavour to do as much as can be done at one time, by
which fatigue is induced, the blood is determined almost
unduly to the surface of the body, the internal organs are
disturbed, and the nervous energies are inconveniently, and it
may be injuriously expended. This deserves to be seriously
considered in regard to invalids, who may be enfeebled by
indisposition, and whose systems may be predisposed to be
acted upon by causes apparently the most unimportant. On
such persons it cannot be too strongly urged, that they
should not attempt to walk far at one time ; but rather, that
a number of short walks should be alternated by rests. This
kind of exercise, which may be taken within an hour or two
after breakfast, and continued for longer or shorter times,
with longer or shorter intervals, almost until bedtime in the
summer months, is that which will be found to be most useful,

THE BUXTON SEASON.

163

to nearly all invalids, which will employ the mind most fully
throughout the day, lessening the chance of the time seeming
to be hanging heavily on their hands • while a more constant
exposure to the genial and tonic influence of the air will be
promoted : a point which, in regard to the value of Buxton
as a watering-place, deserves, perhaps, a higher degree of
importance than has yet been assigned to it.

But there is even a stronger reason to be advanced, why
invalids should resort to Buxton as soon as the return of
warmer and more settled weather permits them to leave
home with comfort. There is more general activity in the
system at this time of the year than at any other season ;
and a correspondingly greater natural effort made for the
relief of the more chronic ailments than at any other period.
This will have been noticed by most persons, as well as bj
medical men. The return of spring, of warmer weather and
brighter days, not only stimulates the dormant vegetation,
and arouses the life of plants into a renewal of activity ;
but acts upon animal life likewise, and includes man in its
effects ; notwithstanding the artificial condition, and the
artificial wants, which civilization has given rise to. The
effect of such stimulus on the human system is seen, in a
very obvious and painful degree, in the instance of those who
are suffering the extreme stages of disease. The warmer air
is too stimulating for the irritated and wasted tissues ; and
it has to be predicated of many such cases, that the more
early the return of the season which is the more genial to
the healthy, the sooner will the slender thread be divided by
which such invalids cling to life. And it is no less observable
in other cases, in which the effect of such stimulus is not to
destroy life, but to aid in the restoration of strength and

104

THE BUXTON SEASON.

the removal of disease. It lias often been suggested, in the
instance of sufferers from the most chronic and. obstinate of
the disordered conditions, in the relief of which the Buxton
waters are found to be so generally useful, that, in order to
obtain the greatest amount of effect from their use, the
earlier periods of the year should be taken advantage of,
when the efforts of the system, thus stimulated by the
season, will be most likely to aid and confirm their effects.
This stimulating effect of spring upon the human system
may be increased by the periodical type, which all the opera-
tions of nature are found to assume. There is a remarkable
tendency to periodicity in all vital phenomena. It is not
merely in regard to the seasons, the succession of day and
night, and the alternation of repose and activity ; but this
law extends to all natural phenomena. And this great law
may be supposed to aid in producing the development of all
the vital efforts, which is so observable in spring, and which
is found to be of so much practical importance in regard to
disease. The dryness of the air of Buxton is the probable
cause of one singularly valuable peculiarity, which is observ-
able in regard to the place. Invalids hardly ever take cold
at Buxton. They may have only just quitted the bedroom
to which they had been confined by serious and protracted
indisposition, have travelled to Buxton closely muffled and
packed in wrappings and multifarious envelopments ; and,
almost immediately on arrival, have ventured into the open
air, have sat down on the benches with which the walks are
abundantly supplied, and have spent hour after hour in this
indulgence, which in most places would prove to be so dan-
gerous ; but here it is hardly ever followed by any unpleasant
consequences ; and, on the contrary, contributes to restore

EFFECT OF CHANGE OF AIE.

105

health and vigour to the enfeebled system. When it is con-
sidered that this observation has reference to a place which
is resorted to for the use of tepid and hot baths, from the
effects of which the vessels of the surface would be rendered
unusually susceptible, its importance in a medical account of
Buxton will be admitted to be great. The statement, how-
ever, must not be made use of to justify rashness, and sudden
and violent changes in regard to exposure and clothing on
the part of invalids ; but it shows that to be justifiable which
would otherwise be unsafe ; and it illustrates strongly a
valuable character of the air which superincumbs the moun-
tain limestone.

Change of air is well known to be capable of producing
much effect on the health of man. The amount of such
effect is usually in proportion to the degree of the change,
provided that it is not too great for the powers and suscep-
tibilities of the system to endure without injury, and that
the change is from a less pure to a purer air, and from an
air that is damp to one that is dry. There are important
disordered conditions in which the removal to a damper air
is indicated, and in which a low and well sheltered situation
should be preferred. But these cases are the exception to
what applies to the majority of disordered states. It cannot
be wondered at, that the removal to such a locality as
Buxton should be followed by beneficial results, in many of
the diseases from which the inhabitants of low and damp
iocalities suffer so severely. It must indeed be admitted,
that change of air of any kind often does good. The
secondaiy influence of mind and its associations may often
justifiably assign a preference to such a change of air, as
might seem to be less suitable to the generality of cases.

166

EFFECT OF CHANGE OF AIE.

There is, for instance, a virtue in the air of the native place,
which may be inexplicable, unless the indirect effect of
memory and association be allowed for. It has been said, that

“ Custom moulds

To every clime tlie soft Promethean clay :

And he who first the fogs of Essex breathed,

(So kind is native air) may in the fens
Of Essex from inveterate ills revive,

At pure Montpelier or Bermuda caught.” — Armstrong.

If this were so, the “custom” would probably have little
to do with the result. The effect would have to be ascribed
to the mental stimulus : to the influence of the scenes of the
younger days on the mind, and through the mind on the body.

But, waving a consideration of such influence of mind, and
of such special or exceptional cases as have been referred to,
and of the cases in which disease may have so nearly done
its worst, that an exposure to the ordinary breath of heaven
could hardly be undergone with impunity, and to which the
mildest and blandest air may alone be suitable, it may be
affirmed that the locality in which the air is the most dry
and pure, and the inhabitants are most free from disease,
will be most useful to the generality of invalids, and that
Buxton deserves to be ranked among the places which claim
so high a character.

CHAPTER IV.

OKIGIN AND CAUSE OF THE HEAT OF THE THEK3IAL
SPRINGS OF BUXTON.

HE temperature of the Buxton tepid waters is the first
of their characteristics to be noticed. It is one of
the most important of their sensible properties ; for,
although no one who had been witness to their medicinal
effects could ascribe them to the temperature of the waters,
yet this temperature must aid and increase such effects, and
facilitate the admission of the saline and gaseous constituents
into the systems of those who make use of them.

There are few subjects which have given rise to more
speculation and inquiry than the cause of the elevated tem-
perature of hot springs. Although there are only two
districts in which such springs are found in England, they
are by no means rare in most other countries. More than

forty such springs are reported to exist in Portugal alone ;
the temperature of which ranges from 68 degrees to 150
degrees. Between sixty and seventy of these springs are said
to exist in France ; the temperature ranging from 70 degrees
to 212 degrees. Switzerland and Italy are likewise rich in
this respect. But the springs of Germany have far out-
stripped all the others in medical importance, which may
be ascribed, in some degree at least, to the personal efforts
of the highly gifted people of that country. The baths of
Aix-la-Chapelle, Wiesbaden, Ems, Baden, and several others.

108

ORIGIN OF THE TEPID WATERS.

are as well known by reputation in this country as to the
Germans themselves.

Before directing attention to the causes which may pro-
duce the elevated temperature of hot springs, it may be
endeavoured to be shown whence the water is derived with
which these springs are supplied.

The water of all springs is derived from the atmosphere,
or from large subterranean reservoirs, or from the ocean.

The water of most springs is derived from the atmosphere.
The aerial vapours are condensed on the surface of the earth,
in the form of rain, hail, or snow. The water percolates
through the softer strata, finds its way through fissures or
faults in the denser strata, until its progress is stopped by
an impermeable bed of clay, &c. It is forced over the surface
of such a stratum by the pressure of the superincumbent
water, until it is carried once again to the surface of the
earth, through a breach in the stratification above it, and
forms a spring. But miners say, that the lower they descend
below the surface the less water they meet with. Indeed,
these waters can hardly be supposed, under ordinary cir-
cumstances, to penetrate very far without being absorbed
by the strata through which they pass, or arrested, and
again brought to the surface, by meeting with an imper-
meable stratum. Whereas boiling water is poured out by
volcanic agency, at an elevation of many thousands of feet,
on the confines of perpetual snow ; and, consequently, the
depths at which large collections of water may be supposed
to exist may be inferred to be very considerable.

There seem, then, to be reasons for believing that there
are reservoirs, or large collections of water, situated at very
considerable depths in the bowels of the earth ; while it

ORIGIN OF THE TEPID WATERS.

169

must be added, that such collections of water can hardly be
so considerable as to be independent of supplies from other
sources, and to be capable of pouring out the immense
volumes of water which are discharged from depths to
which the atmospheric waters cannot be supposed to pene-
trate, under ordinary circumstances ; or such discharges of
water, in quantities so considerable, would materially increase
the quantity of water contained in the atmosphere and in
the ocean. It has been inferred that such subterranean
reservoirs cannot be of such extent as to afford this large
supply, from calculations by which a specific gravity is
assigned to the globe of nearly five times that of water, and
a third more than the mean density of its rocky crust. Such
inferences, however, are without adequate foundation. The
Andes, with their elevation of 25,000 feet above the level of
the sea, have been well said to bear no greater proportion to
the size of the earth than the roughness on the rind of an
orange to the size of the fruit; and yet, compared with this,
how little is the greatest depth to which man has penetrated.
We can be little justified with such facts before us, in form-
ing conclusions as to the composition or character of the
internal structure of the earth.

But when we take into account the amount of volcanic
agency, which is still going on in various parts of the earth’s
surface ; when we consider that thermal waters spring, with
few exceptions, in the neighbourhood of either recent or
extinct volcanoes, or of such disrupted stratifications as are
the results of volcanic action; when we couple with this the
amount of volcanic power which is manifested in the ocean,
the islands that have been upheaved from its depths,
within the memory and authenticated traditions of men,—

170

ORIGIN OF THE TEPID WATERS.

and the shocks that are often experienced far out at sea ;
when we connect these facts with another singular fact, that
thermal springs, and indeed that volcanoes, are very rarely
found at any great distance from the sea, — and, indeed, when
so found, are believed to derive their waters from great
inland lakes, or inland seas ; and when to these considera-
tions it is added that columns of watery vapour, and showers
of boiling water, are among the principal phenomena of active
volcanoes, it is surely not too much to connect intimately the
waters of the ocean with thermal springs, and to conceive
that the ocean is the probable source from which the waters
of these springs may be derived. It does not appear to be
too much to conceive that, through disrupted strata, or faults,
at the bottom of the ocean, through chasms created by vol-
canic outbreaks, water would be forced by the enormous
pressure of the mass of waters above ; or that this should,
under such pressure, and with the facilities created by the
strata having been disrupted by the volcanoes, penetrate much
deeper than we can conceive the atmospheric waters to pene-
trate. It may be conceived that, in this way, water may
arrive at a centre of volcanic agency; and that there, urged
by the heat that exists in the depths of the earth, this water
may be converted into steam; and that, when the steam
thus formed can find no vent, it may at length accumulate
such power as to upheave the masses of strata above it, and
in its turn become the active element of a volcano ; or that,
when the steam can find a vent for itself, by passing through
strata already disrupted, it may be gradually condensed and
cooled, until it may emerge at length on the surface of the
earth, in the condition of a hot or of a tepid spring, according
to the length of the channel through which it has had to pass

ORIGIN OF THE TEPID WATERS.

171

This is perhaps little more than theory ; but it is theory
founded on such an association of facts, as seems to justify a
strong opinion of its probability. If it be denied, it is difficult
to assign any satisfactory reason why thermal springs are
not found as commonly in the interior of vast continents, as
in the neighbourhood of the ocean ; why thermal waters are
so constantly found to be connected with existing or extinct
volcanoes; and why water, in the form of steam, or at a much
elevated temperature, is so constantly associated with every
volcanic outbreak. But this supplies an explanation of several
circumstances, which form singular and interesting matters
in the history of thermal waters. It gives a key to the sur-
prising fact, that thermal springs flow in unvarying quantity,
and at an unvarying temperature, from age to age ;* and
that, as far as can be ascertained, their constituents have
been unmodified by time. If the waters with which these
springs are supplied, were derived from the same source as
that of the generality of springs, viz. : the waters condensed
on the surface of the earth from the atmosphere, they would
necessarily be subjected to the same vicissitudes. In a par-
ticularly dry season, the supply would be diminished, or would
temporarily cease : and on the other hand, after an unusually
large fall of rain, the quantity discharged from them in a
given time would be greatly increased. But in regard to

* “ The springs in Greece still flow at the same places as in the Hallenic
times : the spring of Erasinos, on the slope of the Chaon, two hours’ journey
to the south of Argos, was mentioned by Heredotus ; the Cassotis at Delphi,
now the well of St. Nicholas, still rises on the south of the Lesche, and its
waters pass under the temple of Apollo ; the Castalian fount still flows at the
foot of Parnassus, and the Pirenian near Acro-Corinth ; the thermal waters of
iEclepsos in Euboea, in which Sylla bathed during the war of Mithridates, still
exist. I take pleasure in citing these details, which show that, in a country
subject to frequent and violent earthquakes, the relative condition of the strata,
and even of those narrow fissures through which these waters find a passage,
has continued unaltered during at least two thousand years.” — Cosmos (Lieut*
•Col. Sabine's Edition). Vol. I.

172 ORIGIN OF THE TEPID WATERS.

thermal springs, these causes have no influence. In winter
and in summer, in dry seasons and in wet seasons, a certain
number of gallons per minute are poured out with an unde-
viating regularity. Moreover, if these waters were derived
from the atmosphere, the colder the season, the lower would
be their temperature ; and certainly, likewise, the larger the
quantity of the water poured forth, the lower would be its
temperature. But, through long series of years, not only
does the quantity of water poured out by these springs in a
given time remain the same as it was at the most remote
record, but their temperature remains steadily the same as
when first noticed. Supposing the ocean to be the source
from which these springs derive their supply of water, the
definite quantity may be forced through the fissures, either
by its gravity, or by the pressure of the superincumbent
waters, — this definite quantity may be converted into steam,,
by the means presently to be noticed, — the steam may be
condensed, and cooled to a definite degree, by passing through
a definite space, — and supposing no waste to arise, from
leakage or otherwise, 129^ gallons of water per minute, con-
taining the same gaseous and saline constituents as now and
heretofore, may continue to supply the natural baths of
Buxton throughout ages to come.

The absence of sea-salt in any of the thermal springs-
might at first be considered to be fatal to the above views..
But it has been sufficiently proved by direct experiment, that
sea water is deprived of its saline constituents, by passing
through a certain thickness of sand, &c. ; and, therefore, the
passing through we know not how many miles in depth of
various strata would necessarily deprive it of all its saline
matters, even if the hypothesis of its conversion into steam.

CAUSE OF THE HEAT OF THE WATERS. 17&

and consequent separation from every foreign ingredient,,
were thrown aside.

Knowing as we do the gigantic extent of the processes of
nature, and the uniformity of the means used to effect the
same results, in different places and at different times, it may
probably be inferred that the same cause, which produces
the supply of water in the instance of any one of the thermal
springs, might equally serve to account for it in the others.
Some general source, which may equally serve in regard to
all thermal springs, is therefore sought for. But in regard
to the Buxton thermal springs, the circumstance obtains
that, in various situations, at no far removed distances, in
the limestone formation, surface springs are swallowed up by
fissures or cracks in the strata; some of which are found to
re-appear at the surface, at different distances from what is
locally called the swallow ; and the whole of these may or
may not so re-appear. It could not be thought to be im-
possible, that such swallowed up spring or springs should
travel through such fissures, and serve to supply some vast
subterranean reservoir, from which the supply of water to be
vaporised might be obtained.

The cause of the elevated temperature of thermal springs
is a question of still more immediate interest.

As has been said, thermal springs are always found in the
greatest abundance, in the neighbourhood of active or recently
active volcanoes ; and volcanoes are hardly ever found to
exist, without giving rise to springs of tepid water. In those
situations where no traces of yolcanic agency can be detected
in the neighbourhood of tepid springs, these waters are found
to issue from the primary rocks, either directly, or from beds
of inconsiderable thickness, which evidently form merely a

174

CAUSE OF THE HEAT OF THE WATERS.

crust over rocks of the primary class: In some instances,

the tepid springs are found in the midst of chains of moun-
tains, or close to their base ; in other instances, a succession
of such springs is found in the same direction as that in
which a mountain chain extends ; sometimes, they “ gush
•out at or near to the line of junction between the granite or
•other igneous products, and the stratified rock resting upon
its flanks, which from its highly inclined position would seem
to have been upheaved; whilst in a few cases where they
occur in the midst of the granite itself, patches of stratified
rock are found contiguous. Thus the same agent which
forced up the granite through the axis of the chain, may
have given rise to the hot springs which accompany it first
along the line of the disruption. ***** In many
instances where the general aspect of this country does not
so forcibly impress upon the mind the idea of volcanic forces
having been in active operation, there is something in the
particular circumstances of the locality indicative of the
same kind of agency.” — ( Professor Daubenyon Volcanoes.)

Professor Daubeny goes on to cite the tepid spring at
Clifton, as gushing out of a narrow fissure of hard rock,
bounded by abrupt cliffs, with an enormous fault near to the
north of the spring “ which has thrown down the limestone
beds one hundred and twenty feet,” serving to justify the
•opinion that a mighty force has at some period rent these
rocks in sunder, and opened the passage for the tepid water
from deeply-seated strata; he cites Matlock “from the
abruptness of the cliffs which bound the defile on either side,
and from the existence of an enormous fault, much of the
same description as that of Clifton,’ and justly adds that
the volcanic rocks which are found in many parts of Derby-

CAUSE OF THE HEAT OF THE WATERS. 1?*>

shire afford an additional presumption that the tepid waters
of that country owe their origin to volcanic heat he cites
the warm springs of Carlsbad, as emerging from “ a kind of
conglomerate, composed of broken masses of granite united
together by a siliceous cement, leading to the inference of
riven rocks and shattered fragments and disrupted strata ; —
he cites the warm springs of Pfeffers, in the Grisons, bursting1
forth from the side of an extraordinary chasm in a limestone
rock; adding that “the other thermal springs in Switzerland
appear under circumstances for the most part similar,” and
that “ the situation of the thermal waters in the beautiful
mountain region of Virginia, west of the Blue Ridge, which
I visited in 1838, strongly corroborates the views above
enunciated;” “in short, out of fifty-six springs more or less,
thermal, forty-six are situated on, or adjacent to, anticlinal
axes; seven on or near lines of fault or inversion; and
three, the only group of this kind yet known in Virginia,
close to the point of junction of the Appalachian with the
Hypogene rocks,”

The position of the different tepid springs in Derbyshire
confirms these views strongly. Not only do the broken and
shattered strata, and the abrupt cliffs, and frequently occurring
patches of toadstone, tell of volcanic action and riven rocks,
and account for fissures by which such springs could find
egress ; but the springs occur near to the edge of the lime-
stone formation in every instance; and in such situation, the
continuity would be more likely to be broken through, down
to more deeply seated strata.

Connecting these facts together, the conclusion seems to
be justifiable, that thermal springs arise from beneath rocks
of the primary class, through disruptions which have been

176 CAUSE OF THE HEAT OF THE WATEES.

caused by volcanic agency; and granting that thermal
springs arise from terrestrial depths below all the strata
which have been the subject of geological knowlege, it
would remain to be shown whether the temperature of the
interior of the earth may be adequate to raise large quanti-
ties of water, brought into successive contact with it, to the
boiling temperature.

It has been observed in many countries of high latitude,
that when the atmospheric temperature falls below a certain
point, the temperature of the spring in those countries ceases
to fall in the same ratio ; and, in fact, that their temperature
often exceeds that of the air. Nor have these singular
observations been confined to the springs of the countries
referred to. It is well known that a certain elevation of
temperature is essential to the life of plants, and that different
plants have different ranges of temperature within which they
can live. It is said to have been ascertained that rye re-
quires for its growth a temperature of not less than 46
degrees : and yet, owing to the internal temperature which
emanates from the earth, independent of the solar influence,
this grain is grown and ripened in Sweden, where the atmos-
pheric temperature is little more than 36 degrees. It would
seem indeed that the mean terrestrial temperature exceeds
the atmospherical in many northern districts, if not in
northern countries generally; and that it is owing to this
that nearly the whole of Siberia, the upper parts of Finland,
and some parts of Sweden, afford harvests and sustenance to
the inhabitants, under a degree of atmospheric temperature
which would be insufficient for these purposes, but for the
inherent temperature of the earth. That this cannot be
■owing to the absorption of the solar heat during the warmer

CAUSE OF THE HEAT OF THE WATERS.

177

months, appears to have been proved by experiments, show-
ing that six months are required for the absorption of heat
to the comparatively trifling depth of thirty feet. But this
is proved even still more conclusively by the ascertained fact,
that the atmospheric temperature at the equator is higher
than that of the perennial springs.

These observations would go far to establish an opinion
that the earth possesses a considerable degree of internal heat,
which would almost necessarily become more considerable
the greater the distance from the surface. But it is by the
results of experiments which have been made in mines that
it has been established as a fact, that the deeper we penetrate
beneath the surface of the earth the higher the temperature
is, and that we are enabled to form some idea of the depth
at which the earth may be at so high a temperature as would
suffice for the conversion of water into steam.

In the ancient quarries below the observatory at Paris, at
the depth of only ninety-two feet, the temperature is nearly
2 degrees higher than that of the mean temperature of the
■country. If the temperature of subterranean springs be
taken as a guide to indicate the mean temperature of the
earth as we penetrate more deeply below its surface, it has
been found, to cite one out of many such observations, that
in the copper mine of Dolcoath, in Cornwall, at the depth
of 1440 feet, the temperature of the spring is 82 degrees,
while the mean temperature of the country is only 50
degrees; or, to mention another instance, that in the silver
mine of Guanaxuato, in Mexico, at the depth of 1713 feet,
the temperature of the springs is more than 98 degrees, and
the mean temperature of the country little more than 60
• degrees.

178

CAUSE OE THE HEAT OF THE WATERS.

But it is chiefly by ascertaining the temperature of th&
rock itself, at different depths, that a fixed conclusion may
be arrived at as to the rate of increase in the temperature...

as we descend more and more deeply into the bowels of the
earth. And the result of such observations, many of which

have been made with great care, and possible sources of

fallacy watchfully guarded against, is that the earth becomes
warmer by one degree for every forty -four feet of depth j
and, consequently, at a depth of little more than /000 feet
below the surface of the earth the temperature would be
sufficient to raise water to the boiling point, and convert it

into steam : a depth which bears no greater proportion to
the diameter of the globe than a few inches bear to a mile.*
It must be admitted that this would be sufficient to
account for the elevated temperature of thermal waters,
were their temperature the only particular which distin-
guishes them from other water. The intimate connection
that there is between these waters and volcanoes has, how-
ever, led to repeated suggestions, that these may or must
have something more to do with the production of these

* “Hot springs,” writes Baron Humboldt, “issue from rocks of every
kind; The hottest permanent springs yet known are tli os e !

the strata, by contac , . noon T?ncr1ish feet or above two geo-

probably situated at a depthof of Jorulla

TunkMwn before my American

ordinary rainwater sinking to a great depth, where it acquire ^
afterwards appears at the ,8?rf?oe ^ t d * a of 1682 English feet

her, 1759, Jorulla was Rio de Cutimba

IKS »«.”«£«“£ S°V',™a t. be 1504 deg»«

Cosmos.

CAUSE OF THE HEAT OF THE WATERS.

179

waters than merely the having1 forced the channel by which
they escape to the surface. Snow, to the depth of two feet
and a half, remained unmelted on Vesuvius, after the erup-
tion had lasted two days, in 1822 ; and the observers were
able to keep their naked hands on the margin of the lava
stream without inconvenience, at a time when the centre of
it was still in a fluid state. This proves how slowly heat
passes through the volcanic products ; and it has been urged
that it is possible there may be masses of melted material,
thus crusted over, of enormous size, situated at great depths
in the bowels of the earth ; and that such masses may have
retained a highly elevated temperature, during periods long
anterior to any of our records ; and that currents of water,
passing close to, or near, these masses, would he vaporised
by them, and might form hot springs, the temperature of
which might not necessarily undergo any perceptible dimi-
nution during hundreds of years.

With satisfactory proof of the astonishing fact, that at a
few thousands of feet below the earth’s surface, its strata
are at a great elevation of temperature, it would seem need-
less to indulge in speculation as to any other cause for the
heat of waters, which are known to proceed from great
depths, and probably from greater depths than geology has
made us acquainted with, and at which no other cause than
the temperature of the globe itself would be needful to
convert water into steam *

fr^quwi^andn^1(3e^t^0Theiratt*Ve V°lcanoe^ or wh«re ewthquakeTTre most

The'volum'e o^water^also given^T] ' atTearthquaTe!
cause With the excention nflir ^ms ^een sometimes affected by the same

N ’

180

CAUSE OE THE HEAT OE THE WATERS.

But, in truth, the ingredients of mineral waters, both
gaseous and saline, being identically the same as the ma-
terials discharged from the bowels of the earth in volcanic
eruptions, it is impossible to avoid the conclusion that these
waters proceed from volcanic centres, and probably derive
from volcanism all their characteristics. It should be
remembered that we are not driven to this conclusion, on
account of any difficulty in explaining the elevated tempe-
rature of thermal waters, which might be due to the internal
heat of the depths of the earth, but on account of the
chemical characters and distinctions of all thermal springs.
Chlorine, chiefly in combination with hydrogen, as muriatic
acid, — sulphur, in combination with oxygen, or with hydro-
gen,— carbonic acid, — the chlorides of soda and lime,
and oxydes of iron variously combined with carbonic acid,
<jfcc., — are all the common products of volcanoes, and the
ingredients most commonly found in mineral waters. And
indeed all thermal waters may thus be grouped into one

great family, probably identical in origin, singularly alike
in chemical characters, and entirely independent of local

causes, in regard to their temperature, their flow of water,
and the amount of their saline and gaseous impregnation.
Whereas the other kinds of springs, even although their

saline ingredients may be similar to those which are contained
in some of the thermal waters, are dependent on local in-
fluences, are affected by wet or by drought, and by variations

Xetf assume period, however remote, the theatre of violent

earthquakes." — Lyell’s Geology.

CAUSE OE THE HEAT OE THE WATERS.

181

in the local temperature ; and their geological and geogra-
phical positions are materially different from those of the
thermal springs. It seems to be an unavoidable conclusion,
that the cause of volcanic action, so uncertain as to time,
degree, and duration, must be chemical. The heat, the
steam, the evolution of gases, all denote the operation of
chemical affinities, new combinations, disturbed forces, pro-
duced and operating on a gigantic scale, and with propor-
tionate and vast consequences. It seems to be only necessary
to infer that such chemical action should be moderated in
degree, by dilution of the re-agents, or by the constraining
influence of mechanical difficulties or hindrances, in order
to explain a more regular series of similar phenomena of
less violent character ; or such moderated action might
follow, and be continued for long periods of time, after the
chemical changes had been accomplished in regard to the
substances of more powerful affinities, or presenting greater
mechanical facility for their display. It may well be, that
such gradations of action are equal to produce columns of
boding water or seas of melted lava, to eject them with
enormous force, or fearful violence, amid the cold desolation
of Iceland, or from the summit of Vesuvius,— or to charge
so much water with gaseous and saline constituents, and
produce a certain elevation of its temperature, and cause it
to be poured forth as a thermal spring.

CHAPTER V.

GENEEAL PEOPEETIES OF THE BUXTON TEPID WATEES.
EESULTS OF SUCCESSIVE ANALYSES. COMMENTAEY
ON THEIE COMPOSITION, IN EEFEEENCE
TO THEIE MEDICINAL EFFECTS.

tepid mineral waters of Buxton are bright and clear
HH Hsl in a remarkable degree. When seen in a glass vessel,
IlS? ag dispensed to the drinkers of the waters, or

when seen in the flows and conduits, their brilliancy is very
noticeable. There is, moreover, a perceptible shade of colour
in the waters — a faint tinge of blue — which is peculiar to
them, and serves to distinguish them from the ordinary waters
of the district. It is strange that this tinge of colour should
have been denied by Dr. Pearson; but he did not enjoy the
same opportunity of observing it which we now possess. In the
old and imperfectly lighted baths the great transparency of
the waters could be noticed, but their brilliancy was wholly
unobservable, and this tinge of colour was necessarily not
noticeable. In the well-lighted apartments which now con-
tain the baths the mass and depth of the water exhibit the
transparency, brilliancy, and colour, in the best manner.
The colour has been supposed, at different times, to be ue
to various mineral ingredients believed to be contained m
the waters, but not in sufficient quantity to be detected. At
an early period copper was thought to be the colouring
ingredient ; in more recent times, iodine was inferred to be a

GENERAL PROPERTIES OF THE TEPID WATERS. 183

probable cause of the colour. The only purpose served has
been to indicate, that the colour has always been a subject of
remark, even in remote times. Attention has been directed
to all the different causes to which it might be referable ;
and unless it could be due to the small proportion of iron,
which has now been ascertained to be among its constituents,
the cause of the blue tinge is still unknown. The brilliancy
is due to the large quantity of gas which it holds in solution,
and which is given off from it in the form of minute bubbles.
If a bottle of transparent glass is filled with the water, and
held between the eye and the light, the water will be seen
to be charged with these bubbles; most of them being
exceedingly small, but clustered quite close together. In
the largest of the natural baths, at the instant of the escape
of the waters from the bowels of the earth, and from the
great pressure to which it must there be subjected, much
larger bubbles of gas are given off, somewhat irregularly ;
sometimes as large as a billiard ball, and sometimes in con-
siderable numbers. The gas forming these large bubbles,
which are so much more noticeable than the minute bubbles,
bears a very small proportion to the quantity of gas which is
given off more slowly in the form of the small bubbles. The
greater proportion of the gas quickly escapes when the water
is exposed to the air ; but if carefully bottled, corked, and
sealed, it would contain much of the gas for an indefinite
time. The appearance of the large bubbles of the gas, rising
like soap bubbles through the masses of the water in the
bath, is curious and beautiful. The quantity of gas with
which the water is charged, giving it much the appearance
of the artificially aerated waters after the first violence of
their effervescence has subsided, adds much to the buoyancy

184 BUOYANCY OF THE TEPID WATERS.

of the water in the baths. Feeble invalids have to be
cautioned as to the buoyant character of the water, as it
renders care, and having the handrails or the bath chains
in ready grasp, to be needful in the instance of infirm or
feeble bathers. When limbs are more or less paralysed, or
even much enfeebled, there is sometimes a difficulty in
keeping them under the surface of the water. In extreme
cases of diminished command over the limbs, or of great
debility, the affected parts, and sometimes even the whole
body, have to be held by attendants under the surface of the
water. Unless in such extreme conditions of system, the
buoyancy of the water in the baths is simply an enjoyable
characteristic, and greatly facilitates the use of muscular
exercise during the immersion.

The effect of the temperature of the natural water on the
bathers is somewhat different from what might have been
expected. The degree of shock commonly experienced at the
instant of immersion is usually greater than would be looked
for from bathing in water of so much higher temperature
than that of the air. When the bath is made use of under
proper circumstances, the shock and sense of chill are only
momentary effects, being immediately followed by efficient
reaction. If judiciously used, there ought to be no return of
chill during the stay of the bather in the water ; nor should
there be any chilliness, unless for a single moment, on leaving
the bath. The reaction should be maintained during the
whole of the time that the bather remains in the water, after
the primary and momentary shock ; and it should be main-
tained, and indeed it is desirable that it should increase
for some hours after leaving the bath. The reaction often
continues throughout the whole remainder of the day, some-

SHOCK AND KEACTION FROM BATHING. 185

times lasts throughout the followingnight, and is occasionally
found to be continued during the whole of the subsequent
day. These latter cases are rare ; and, it may be observed,
these extreme effects usually show that the warmer baths
would be more suitable for such cases than the natural
baths ; and that baths of these waters, of any temperature,
should be used with much caution and moderation as to the
time of remainiug in the water, and as to the frequency of
using the bath. Such cases are, although comparatively
rare, sufficiently numerous to form an important feature in
the history of the effects of these waters upon the human
system. And in regard to the cases in which the shock
occasioned by the bath is not merely momentary, but con-
tinues more or less during the time of immersion, or even
afterwards, it may likewise be said that the natural bath is
seldom used judiciously, or even without risk, under these
circumstances. The use of the warmer baths will commonly
be found to be preferable in these cases. The stimulating
effect of these baths is not only observable in regard to the
degree of reaction, or glow of increased warmth; and, in the
exceptional cases, by the feverish heat which follows their
use ; but also in regard to the system generally. The spirits,
the digestion, and the appetite, are all so much stimulated,
as to convince those bathers who may have been previously
the most sceptical as to the powerful and extraordinary
action of the baths of these waters upon the animal economv.
In the course of the last thirty-five years a very large number
of medical men have been led to make trial of the Buxton
baths for the relief of their own ailments ; and many of
these gentlemen had their trust in the medicinal value of
the water much influenced by the older analyses, and ex-

186 STIMULATING EFFECT. — THE WATER FEVEE.

pressed their scepticism in sufficiently unqualified terms
before using the bath. But this want of belief in the
peculiar and remarkable character of the waters has never
failed to be removed by the use of the bath, even on the
first time of bathing. The gaseous character of the waters,
so evident when bathing in them — and the marked degree
of excitement which follows the use of the bath — have
invariably produced a complete recantation of all preliminary
doubts and disparaging opinions.

The stimulating effect produced by the bath usually lasts
during the subsequent twelve or fourteen hours. In cases of
disordered action, the use of the bath is sometimes followed
by an increase of feverishness, pain, or stiffness, according to
the nature of the ailment. This effect may begin to be felt
from six to twelve hours after bathing, and may continue in
greater or less degree, from a few hours to twenty-four hours,
or longer. It is almost always desirable that this effect
should be allowed to subside before the bath is made use of
again. There is a more lasting effect of this kind, which
frequently follows the use of several baths of this water, and
which is well described as the water-fever. This is often to
be regarded as an indication that the baths are acting upon
and influencing the system and the morbid condition, and
that the use of them will be eventually beneficial ; the ques-
tion for consideration being, perhaps, whether their use
should be interrupted, or whether they should be used more
sparingly, or whether the use of the warm baths should be
substituted for that of the natural baths, either temporarily
or otherwise. These more powerful effects of the baths are
usually controlled by using them only every second, or every
third day, or on two successive days with the interruption of

SECONDARY EFFECT OF THE BATHS.

187

the third day ; and by regulating1 the time of remaining in
the bath, according to the strength, excitability, or other
peculiarities of individual cases. Such restrictions have,
moreover, an additional object. Whether the primary ex-
citement from the use of the baths is considerable in its
degree or otherwise, and whether the water-fever is evidenced
, strongly or otherwise, a course of these baths is almost
always followed by some degree of general debility. This is
first noticeable in the circulation : the pulse at the wrist, and
the heart’s action become more feeble ; but it is early marked
by languor and feebleness, and indisposition to make any
exertion, despondency, diminished appetite, and disturbed
or lethargic sleep. The degree of this secondary effect of the
baths is usually inconsiderable ; and it is generally of short
duration, when the baths are made use of with the inter-
ruption of certain days, when the course is not unwisely
prolonged, and when the several immersions have not been
for too long a time. But it is right to say that when such
precautions are not used, these effects are sometimes so
great as to be of serious importance. It would not be to
give a fair account of the medicinal effect of the Buxton
baths, nor to offer a caution which is often needful, as to the
nse of the baths, if this were not thus stated in unqualified
teims. It often happens, that strong and otherwise healthy
individuals, suffering only from localised rheumatism of some
part of the trunk of the body, or of the limbs, referable to
exposure to cold and wet,— as in the instance of miners,
who frequently have to lie down at their work, with one or
botli legs, and perhaps one hip, and perhaps even one side
of the body, covered with water, and this during days and
oven weeks in succession— are tempted, from an anxiety

188

HISTOEY OF SUCCESSIVE ANALYSES.

to obtain relief, and to return to their homes as soon as
possible, to bathe more frequently than is advised, or to
remain longer in the bath than is directed, with the conse-
quence of a sudden and great prostration of power, sometimes
resulting in important and serious disease. Within a single
week, such strong and even athletic patients, without appre-
ciable disturbance or deranged function of any internal viscus,
with an ascertained healthy condition of the circulation,
respiration, membranes, and faculties, have presented them-
selves in a state of much languor and exhaustion, evidenced
by the condition of the heart’s action, and every other least
mistakeable indication ; and all this extreme effect has been
referable only to the use of the bath daily, and the having
remained in the bath every time from five to fifteen minutes
longer than had been ordered.

Such effects as these are not experienced after the use of
baths of ordinary water at any temperature, or repeated or
continued to any extent ; and the inquiry is naturally and at
once suggested, as to the cause to which these effects are to
be ascribed. The chemical constitution of these waters has
therefore been a subject of speculation and inquiry, from the
earliest records. It can be no subject of surprise, that every
generation of men, seeing the great and marvellous healing
powers of these waters, should have become dissatisfied with
the investigations as to their chemical ingredients which had
hitherto been made, feeling their utter inadequacy to explain
so considerable an amount of medicinal effect. And thus,
during the long space of three hundred years, have
these waters been the subject of anxious and painstaking
investigation, to the successive generations of chemists and
medical men ; leaving every succeeding race of investigators

SPECULATIVE INFERENCES OF UR. JONES.

189

virtually as unable as before to explain satisfactorily and
conclusively the effect of tbe waters, by reference to their
ascertained composition. Aud yet the confidence expressed
by the successive medical observers, has been unvarying ;
and the kinds of disease for the relief of which they are
found to be so useful, are the same as in the earliest times.
The temperature, and the flow, and the clearness and bright-
ness, and the freedom from smell or very marked taste, have
been no less unvarying, than the effects on certain morbid
conditions of the human system, and than the chemical con-
stituents, whatever these may be.

After the imperfect investigation which the state of science
in that age enabled him to make, Dr. Jones, in his curious
book (published in the year 1572), is obliged to content him-
self with the conclusion, that the qualities of the water are
due to the presence of “some excellent ore, rather than either
brimstone, alum, bitumen, iron, copper, or any such like, for
then it should in drinking be perceived by the taste. Albeit
true it is, as affirmeth Galen, all such hot baths of such
minerals have force of drying, but in these you have no such
sense, but so fair, so pleasant, and so delectable, that it would
seem to be a dulce bath, made by art, rather than by nature ;
howbeit the effects declare brimstone to be therein. Sea
water often strained through sand, becomes sweet, and so
may these waters being strained through the earth, lose their
mineial taste, but retain great virtue both manifest and
hidden. Here may be remarked, even in those earlier days,
when analytical chemistry could do so little, the full admis-
sion as to the powerful effect of the waters upon disease, that
this effect must be ascribed to some medicinal constituent,
and the conjecture that the constituent may be sulphur, or

190 dr. lister’s and de. leigh’s investigations.

some similar agent, deprived by filtration, or some equally
powerful means, of its taste or smell, but being left in other
respects in an efficient condition. Of the long catalogue of
strangely named ailments, for which this water was then said
to be curative, Dr. Jones places “Rheums” (rheumatism) at
the head, as is done at the present time; and in the list,
there are female weakness and irregularities, relaxed and
irritable states of the mucous membranes, with their many
and various morbid consequences : most clearly indicating,
that the large proportion of the invalids at that time resorting
to the Buxton baths, were suffering from the same disordered
conditions of system, as the greater number of those who
make use at them at this time for the relief of their ailments.

Dr. Lister, the second in date of the ancient investigators
of the Buxton water, any traces of whose works have been
preserved, describes the medicinal effects of the baths as
being stimulating ; and states that, if too long continued,
they produce wasting, feverishness, and debility ; referring
the effects to the small proportion of iron, which he affirms
that he could taste, but could not otherwise detect; and
stating, moreover, that the water contains a small propor-
tion of common salt, and of calcareous earth.

Dr. Leigh, who wrote previously to 1671, testifies to the
“surprising effects” which he had observed from the use of
the baths in cases of rheumatism. He says, “persons that
could not go before without the help of crutches came from
thence to Manchester on foot without them, viz., sixteen
miles.” The distance, according to the modern measurement,
is twenty-four miles; and it will be noticed that ancient
authors generally, in mentioning the distances from place
to place in the district, state them as being two-thirds of

DK. shout’s investigations.

191

the distances as estimated by modern measurement. Dr.
Leigh ascribes the medicinal effect of the water to maiine
salt, and the sal catharticum amarum, with the nitrum
calcarium.”

Dr. Short, in 1733, made a much more careful chemical
examination of the Buxton tepid water than any which had
been made previously. He says, in his preface : “ Many
of the (mineral) waters in use have been so superficially
examined, that it is impossible to draw any certain conclusion
concerning their contents, or what they are or are not ; and
therefore they should be more thoroughly searched and sifted.
Buxton, for instance, which though it has justly maintained
its character these two thousand years, yet has there no pains
been taken to discover its impregnating principles, except by
Dr. John Jones (a Welshman, who lived some time at King’s
Meadow, near Derby), near two hundred years ago ; and a
transient visit made to it by Dr. Lister. Matlock, though
much frequented of late years, yet the world are strangers
to its contents, though some would have us believe that its
virtues are exactly the same with those of Bristol (Clifton) ;
but offer neither argument nor experiment to support their
opinion.” He says: “Since these waters continually bring
up so large and numerous bubbles with an impetuous force
from the bowels of the earth, then must their interstices be
richly stored with this fine air;” and he seems to have been
inclined to refer the medical action of the waters, either
directly or indirectly, to this air ; but would not appear to
have endeavoured to estimate the proportion of the air con-
tained in the waters, nor to ascertain its character. He
ascribes the principal effects of the water to “its warmth and
mineral spirit stating that he could not refer the medicinal

192

DR. short’s INVESTIGATIONS.

effects to the solid chemical constituents, which he computed
to be only 26 grains in the imperial gallon, of which he
estimated 13 grains to be calcareous, and the remainder to
consist of marine salt and nitre in equal proportions. Dr.
Short testifies to the good effects which he had seen from the
use of the baths in cases of gout and rheumatism; and then
says, that he would refer the medicinal action of the waters
to “a subtle mineral principle or spirit, wrapt up in the air
(contained in them).” He mentions the favourable effects
from these baths in cases of contraction and stiflhess of the
limbs, the consequence of “ rheumatic and arthritic pains.”
He concludes that the water is highly impregnated with a
mineral stream, vapour, or spirit, containing a most subtle and
impalpable sulphur ; herein following the idea suggested by
Dr. Jones so long before ; but not seeming to be conscious
that he had borrowed the theory from any preceding writer,
although he had quoted largely from Dr. Jones’s work. Dr.
Short mentions the effects which he had witnessed from
the use of the baths in relieving uterine obstructions, in
removing periosteal thickenings, in removing the effects of
old sprains, in affording relief to certain disordered conditions
of the kidneys and bladder ; and he advises that both the
baths and the drinking of the waters should be used with
discrimination ; by no means always or necessarily drinking
the waters and using the bath at the same time, or in all
cases; but drinking the waters in some cases, bathing in
others, and in some cases using the waters in both ways.
Dr. Short says also, “let me add once for all, that as this
water is of such a nature as I have mentioned, so it is not
to be trifled with, for if it be unnecessarily used it will
certainly do harm ; and he judiciously adds, that the use of

DBS. HUNTER, PERCIVAL, AND HIGGINS’ ANALYSES. 193

the waters is not advisable in inflammatory cases, nor “in
consumptions attended with a rapid motion of the blood,
and weak pulmonary vessels.”

Dr. Hunter published a “Treatise on the Nature and
Virtues of the Waters of Buxton” in 1765. The results of
his analysis are nearly the same as those of Dr. Short. His
estimate of the proportion of “calcareous earth” is some-
what larger than that of Dr. Short, and of the proportion of
“sea salt” and “native alkali” is somewhat smaller; but
his total results, as to the amount of the saline constituents
and their nature, are nearly the same.

Dr. Percival made “Experiments and Observations on the
Buxton Waters,” which were published in the sixty-second
volume of the “Philosophical Transactions.” The estimate
of the total saline constituents deducible from these experi-
ments is nearly the same as that of Dr. Short; and they
are referred to the headings — sea salt, calcareous earth, and
alkali.

Dr. Higgins published an analysis of the Buxton waters
in 1782, and, so far as the solid constituents of the water,
the analysis is singularly successful. With the needful
correction, to make the result correspond with the imperial
gallon of water, it would be as follows

Sea Salt

Calcareous earth, combined with acidulous gas. .

Sulphate of lime

Chloride of magnesium

Iron, combined with acidulous gas

Grains.

4-6

151

2-0

1-6

0-6

Saline constituents in an imperial gallon.. 23 9
This appears to have been the only instance, previously to
Dr. Lyon Playfair s analysis, in which any trace of iron was
detected in these waters.

194

dr. Pearson’s analysis.

In 1784 Dr. Pearson published his great and excellent
work entitled “Observations and Experiments for investi-
gating the Chymical History of the Tepid Springs of
Buxton.” It is to this analysis that the discovery of the
nature of the gaseous impregnation of the waters is to he
referred. The following paragraph is a summary of the more
important of Dr. Pearson’s observations and discoveries
which may be supposed to be still of general interest, or to
bear upon the character and properties of the water in the
present day.

“The water is of crystalline transparency, and is colour-
less. When a large bulk of it is viewed together, as that
contained in the baths, where it is four or five feet deep, it
is colourless, and objects may be seen through it. This
crystalline fluid exhibits bright bubbles, of the size of the
smallest pin’s head, adhering to the sides of any vessel con-
taining it, or whatever is immersed in it. The baths contain
these bubbles in every part of them, especially upon a little
agitation. Moreover, streams or clusters of these bubbles
of various sizes, from the magnitude of the smallest pin s
head to the bulk of a cherry, or even sometimes of a billiard
ball, every now and then break out from the floorings of the
baths, and dart perpendicularly upward through the whole
thickness of the water. In a portion of the water that has
ceased to manifest bubbles in a temperate heat, by exposing
it to a greater degree of heat, they will ogain appear.
There is no smell from this fluid, nor will it become fetid by
standing, as some have asserted. It is perfectly insipid ; in
particular it has not the slightest acidulous taste. The
temperature is 81f to 82 degrees, according to Fahrenheit’s
scale. There is every Teason to believe that this water has

SUMMARY OF DR. PEARSON’S OBSERVATIONS. 195

been at precisely the same temperature for many hundred,
perhaps many thousand years. It has certainly been of the
same heat since this property was first determined by the
use of specifically graduated thermometers, more than thirty
years ago (1750-53). When the bath is agitated, as by the
plunging of the bathers, the transparency of the water is
changed to that of turbidness ; but as soon as the commotion
subsides it becomes instantly clear as before. This turbid
appearance has been ascribed to impurities or to sedimentary
matters deposited on the pavement of the bath, and stirred
up and mixed with the water ; but it certainly is not occa-
sioned by this circumstance, because it may be produced at
all times, even immediately after the bath has been thoroughly
cleansed and re-filled, and when there is no sediment either
observable or by any possibility present. Moreover, when
glass vessels were filled with this turbid water it appeared
perfectly clear, nor did it deposit any sediment on standing.
(This muddy appearance is no doubt referable to the large
quantity of gas that is mixed with or suspended in the
water.) The medicinal qualities of this water chiefly depend
upon a permanent vapour. This permanent vapour (gas) is
inodorous, is not acidulous, occurs in exceedingly minute
bubbles, which are diffused throughout the whole bulk of
the water, and are not by any means merely adherent to the
sides of the vessel containing it. This vapour (gas) is elastic,
yielding to pressure, and recovering its former volume when
the pressure is removed. It continues as a vapour at all
temperatures, and is colourless. It cannot support com-
bustion. The gleam of a taper introduced into it was
constantly extinguished. Animal life is supported by it, or

maintained in it, during a much shorter time than if allowed

o

196

DE. PEAESON’s EXPEEIMENTS.

to respire an equal amount of atmospheric air. Many kinds
of water contain more atmospheric air than this water, and
many kinds of water contain more carbonic acid gas ; but
none appear to contain the same amount as this water, of
this peculiar, elastic, and aeriform principle. We are in-
structed, as the results of many experiments, that this water
does not contain any impregnation which is evidenced to the
senses, except the permanent vapour, which is not carbonic
acid gas, nor any vapour which is odorous — that the heat of
the water much exceeds the temperature of the ordinary
springs of the district ; the temperature of such springs
being usually about 48 or 50 degrees and that the water
contains acid of vitriol (sulphuric acid) and marine acid
(muriatic acid), combined with lime and alkali, and carbonic
acid combined with lime, in addition to its impregnation with

the permanent vapour.”

Dr. Pearson estimated th’e gaseous impregnation to be only
one-fourteenth part of the bulk of the water, at ordinary
temperature, and under ordinary pressure ; and the following
was the result of his analysis of the solid ingredients

Chloride of sodium
Sulphate of lime . .
Carbonate of lime .

In the Imp. Gallon.
Grains.

2-333

3-333

14-000

Total solid ingredients per imperial gallon 19'666

or 19 i grains.

In the year 1819, or thirty-five years after the date ot Dr.
Pearson’s analysis, Sir Charles Scudamore and Mr. Garden
jointly examined the Buxton tepid waters, with the appliances
and greater accuracy of the more advanced state of science^
According to the careful and excellent analysis performed

ANALYSIS BY SIR C. SCUDAMORE AND MR. GARDEN. 197

by these gentlemen the imperial gallon of the waters was
estimated to contain : —

Grains.

Chloride of magnesium ’773

Chloride of sodium 3'200

Sulphate of lime ‘800

Carbonate of lime 13'8G6

Extractive matter '666

Loss '693

19-998

or 20 grains of solid or saline matter.

The examination of the gaseous impregnation of the water
served to confirm Dr. Pearson’s discovery as to the nature of
the gas. In the words of Sir Charles Scudamore, “Dr.
Pearson found that the proportion of carbonic acid, in the
Buxton water, did not exceed the half of what is found in
many common springs. He had the merit of discovering
the separate existence of azote in this water, a principle which
had never been detected by any preceding chemist in any
water. In the imperfect state of chemistry, thirty-six years
ago (1783-1819), the nature of azote was unknown, and he
described it ‘ as being a permanent vapour, composed pro-
bably of air and phlogiston.’ The present analysis gave
about one-fifth more of azote in a gallon than appears from
Dr. Pearson’s conclusions.’’*

According to Sir Charles Scudamore’s and Mr. Garden’s
analysis the imperial gallon of the waters appeared to con-
tain of gaseous impregnation : —

n , . . , Cubic Inches.

Carbonic acid o-oo

Nitrogen «.«q

Total .
The proportion

8T8

of nitrogen was supposed to be rather

* A Treatise on Mineral Waters. 2nd Edition. Lon Ion, 1833.

198

DE. ETON PLAYFAIB’S ANALYSIS.

more than three times that of the carbonic acid contained in
the waters.

In 1852 the water was analysed by Dr. Lyon Playfair,
with the subjoined result : —

Analytical Report on the Water of the Thermal Springs
of Buxton, by Dr. Lyon Playfair, C.B., F.R.S.
“Museum of Pbactical Geology and Govebnment
School of Mines.

“ London, July 24ith, 1852.

“To Sidney Smithees, Esq.

“Sir> — In consequence of a request made by you, on
behalf * of His Grace the Duke of Devonshire, I visited
Buxton on the 8th and 9th of April, for the purpose of
collecting the water of the thermal spring for analysis.

“ The water was collected partly in glass-stoppered bottles,
and partly in earthenware jars. The gas, as it issued from
the crevices of rock and bubbled through the water, was
caught by an inverted funnel, and collected in glass bottles
filled with the thermal water itself. These bottles were then
sealed on the spot; and the evidence derived from the gas
contained in them shows that the precautions used for
preventing the access of air were quite successful.

“ It is not necessary for me to describe the physical con-
ditions under which the thermal springs appear at Buxton.
It may be sufficient to state, that they issue from fissures m
the limestone, and are accompanied by frequent but inter-
mittent bursts of gas, which escapes partly as large bubb es,
and partly in innumerable small bubbles, giving to wa er
freshly collected in glass vessels, all the appearance of soda

The water is clear, sparkling, inodorous, and when cool

DE. LYON PLAYFAIR’S ANALYSIS. 199

is almost tasteless. Its temperature is 82 degrees Fahren-
heit, and its specific gravity 1‘0003.

“ Two points had specially to be attended to in the analysis
of the waters, — firstly, to ascertain the nature and quantities
of the ingredients in solution ; and, secondly, the character
and composition of the gas accompanying them.

“In order to be sure that every ingredient came under my
observation, I caused 100 gallons of the water to be evapo-
rated down to about half a gallon, and examined the deposit
and residual solution for bodies which might be present in
such small quantity as to escape detection in the unconcen-
trated water. The precaution was found to have been
necessary, for, in addition to the ordinary constituents of
the waters, two more rarely occurring bodies — viz., fluorine
and phosphoric acid — were found to be present, although
only in minute quantity. The amount of fluorine was, how-
ever, sufficient to etch glass when applied with proper pre-
cautions. Neither iodine nor bromine could be detected.

“ The following analysis gives the amount and nature of
the solid ingredients in one imperial gallon of the water at
60 degrees : —

Grains.

Silica 0-666

Oxide of iron and alumina 0'240

Carbonate of lime 7-773

Sulphate of lime 2‘323

Carbonate of magnesia 4'543

Chloride of magnesium 0’114

Chloride of sodium 2'420

Chloride of potassium 2 '500

Fluorine (as fluoride of calcium) trace

Phosphoric acid (as phosphate of lime) trace

20-579

On examining the water, there were found present car-

200

de. lyon playfaib’s analysis.

bonic acid and nitrogen, in addition to the solid ingredients.
It was important to estimate the amount of the former in
an exact manner. Some of the water was received from the
spring into a glass -stoppered bottle, and the stopper was
immediately inserted and secured. One gallon of the water
was found to contain altogether 13T64 grains of carbonic
acid ; but of this quantity, 5'762 grains were due to the car-
bonates of lime and magnesia, and therefore only 7'402
grains could in any sense be considered as free. Again, the
carbonates of lime and magnesia are present as bicarbonates,
or carbonates dissolved in carbonic acid, and 5-762 grains of
carbonic acid would require to be added for this purpose.

Hence of the 7"402 grains, or 15 66 cubic inches of gaseous
carbonic acid in the water, only T640 grains, or 3'47 cubic
inches, can be considered as wholly free and uncombined.

“ The nitrogen in the water could only be present in solu-
tion, and not in combination ; and as there is no very accurate
method for ascertaining the precise quantity of this gas in
the water at any given temperature, it was considered chiefly
important to ascertain accurately the composition of the
escaping gas, as this would indicate that of the gas held in
solution. The following are the analyses of two portions of
the gas collected as formerly described, the analyses being
given according to volume

i.

Carbonic acid. . . . 1'169

Nitrogen 98-831

Oxygen trace

n.

1-164

98-836

trace

Mean.

1-167

98-833

trace

100-000 100-000 100-000
“ The gas, therefore, consists entirely of carbonic acid and
nitrogen ; for the oxygen, which did not amount to one-tentli
per cent., may be viewed as quite accidental, arising probably
from the corks used to close the bottles.

de. LYON playfaie’s analysis.

201

“Judging from the analysis and proportion of the gases,
it is assumed that at the moment of issue, the water is
charged with 206 cubic inches of nitrogen, and 15'66 cubic
inches of carbonic acid. This assumption is founded upon
the proportional relation of the two gases. The proportion
of carbonic acid in the water being determined, and the
proportion of carbonic acid to that of nitrogen contained in
the water being T2 to 98-8, the amount of nitrogen con-
tained in the water at the moment of issue may fairly be
assumed to be 206 cubic inches per gallon.

“ Before remarking further on the above analysis, it may
be useful to refer to that by Scudamore. The analysis given
by him was upon the wine gallon, which is one-fourth less
than the imperial gallon. Correcting for this difference
Scudamore found twenty grains of solid matter in a gallon—
a result not materially different from that detailed above.
The solid ingredients do indeed differ to some extent in the
two analyses ; but it must be recollected that analytical
chemistry is now in a much more advanced state ; and instead
of being surprised at the differences, we are rather inclined
to admire the precision with which the points had been
made out.

“ From a consideration of the previous analysis, I am
inclined to ascribe the medicinal effects of the water almost
entirely to its gaseous constituents. The water, deprived of
its gases, has the composition of an ordinary spring water,
with the exception of the fluorine and phosphoric acid, both
of which are present in mere traces ; and it is therefore
difficult to conceive that they can have any medicinal effect
when the water is used for baths. The gases are, however,
nearly of the same composition as those of the thermal

202

DR. SHEBIDAN MTJSPEATT’s ANALYSIS.

spring at Bath, and there is no reason to doubt that dissolved
carbonic acid and nitrogen may exert important physiological
effects. At all events, the singular chemical character of
the Buxton tepid water must be ascribed to its gaseous and
not to its solid ingredients.

“ Sir,

“ I have the honour to be,

“ Your obedient and faithful servant,

“LYON PLAYFAIR, F.R.S.”

In the year 1860, Dr. Sheridan Muspratt, of Liverpool,

published the following analysis of the Buxton tepid waters :

Grains in the

Carbonate of lime

Carbonate of magnesia ......

Carbonate of protoxide of iron

Sulphate of lime

Chloride of calcium

Chloride of magnesium

Chloride of sodium

Chloride of potassium

Silica

Nitric acid

Organic matter •

Fluoride of calcium

Phosphate of lime

Imp. gallon.
8-541
3-741
0-082

0- 330

1- 227

0- 463

2- 405
0-260

1- 044
trace
0341

trace

Total per gallon _• 18-434

Free carbonic acid 3'5 cubic inches

Nitrogen ®04 0 ,,

The different analyses of these waters, which have been
made at different and distant periods down to the present
time, have thus been set forth, in order to indicate the
difficulties which have at all times attended the rationale of
their effects in disease ; and to show how early the opinion
came to be entertained, that these effects might be ascribed,
in a principal or important degree, to the. character and
quality of the gas or permanent vapour, which is contained

USES AND IMPOBTANCE OF NITEOGEN.

203

in the water. It is admitted to be still difficult to determine
the precise nature or extent of the effects of uncombined
nitrogen, when introduced into the human system, whether
by absorption through the skin, or through the mucous
membrane of the stomach. It may even be true, that the
whole of the medicinal effect of the water is not due to the
nitrogen which it contains. It may be in part referable to
some constituent, which even the greatly advanced state of
modern chemistry has not been able to detect. But it is
just to indicate that the medicinal action of nitrogen may
not be unequal to produce great medicinal effects, when so
exhibited as to be absorbed into the system with great readi-
ness, and in large amount. The effect of nitrogen through-
out the economy of the earth is now known to be very
great and all-important. The agent which, only a few years
ago, was considered to be simply a great diluent of the
oxygen in the atmosphere, and to have only the effect of
lessening the action of this great stimulating and oxydising
principle, nitrogen is now ascertained to be an important
component of many animal snbstances, and an indispensible
element iri the nutriment of animal life. There is no single
particular in which the laborious and successful investigations
of modern chemists, and the application of the results to
physiology and pathology, have been so influential and im-
portant, as in the development and elucidation of the
importance of nitrogen, in its multiplied combined relations
to the phenomena of life. The high authority of Baron
Liebig may be quoted in support of this statement, in
lefeience to its different and important bearings, by adducing
a succession of sentences from his works. “ All parts of the
animal body which have a decided shape, which form parts

204

USES AND IMPORTANCE OF NITROGEN.

of organs, contain nitrogen. No part of an organ which
possesses motion and life is destitute of nitrogen. — “All
kinds of food fit for the production either of blood, or of
cellular tissue, membranes, skin, hair, muscular fibre, &c.,
must contain a certain amount of nitrogen. “ Water and
common fat are those ingredients of the body which are
destitute of nitrogen. Both are amorphous or unorganised,
and only so far take part in the vital process as that theii
presence is required for the due performance of the vital
functions.”— “All such parts of vegetables as can afford
nutriment to animals contain certain constituents which are
rich of nitrogen ; and the most ordinary experience proves
that animals require for their support and nutrition less of
those parts of plants, in proportion as they abound in the
nitrogenised constituents.”— “ The chief ingredients of the
blood contain 17 per cent, of nitrogen, and no part of an
organ contains less than 17 per cent, of nitrogen. All
experience proves that there is, in the organism, only one
source of mechanical power ; and this source is the conversion
of living parts into lifeless, amorphous compounds.”— “ No
part of the body, having an organised or peculiar form, con-
tains, for 8 equivalents of carbon, less than one of nitrogen.

“Out of the newly formed blood, those parts of organs

which have undergone metamorphoses are reproduced. The
carbon and nitrogen of the food thus become constituent
parts of organs. Exactly as much sulphur, carbon, hydrogen,
and nitrogen is supplied to the organs by the blood— that is,
ultimately, by the food— as they have lost by the transfor-
mations attending the exercise of their functions. —“The
flesh and blood consumed as food ultimately yield the greater
part of their carbon for the support of the respiratofy pro-

USES AND IMPORTANCE OF NITROGEN.

205

cess, while the nitrogen appears as urea or uric acid, the
sulphur as sulphuric acid. But previous to these final
changes, the dead flesh and blood become living flesh and
blood ; and it is, strictly speaking, the combustible elements
of the compounds formed in the metamorphoses of living
tissues, which, with some other substances to be more
particularly mentioned hereafter, serve for the production
of animal heat.”

These quotations may serve to illustrate and justify the
degree of importance ascribed to nitrogen, in the phenomena
of life — in the nutrition and expenditure of the animal
economy. Every movement of the animal machine involves
the expenditure of some portion of the existing and living
tissues; and every such expenditure involves the consumption
of a given proportion of nitrogen, and demands its restoration
in the form of aliment, in the composition of which nitrogen
is an essential element. The nitrogen, to be thus useful,
must be combined with other elementary substances, and
combined in certain proportions ; but such compounds do
not exist without nitrogen ; and this element is essential to
organic structure, to animal function and movement, and to
nutrition.

Moreover, to return to the words of Baron Liebig,
“Medicinal or remedial agents may be divided into two
classes, the nitrogenised and the non-nitrogenised. The
nitrogenised vegetable principles, whose composition differs
from that of the proper nitrogenised elements of nutrition,
also produced by a vegetable organism, are distinguished,
beyond all others, for their powerful action on the animal
economy. The effects of these substances are singularly
varied ; from the mildest form of the action of aloes to the

'206 USES AND IMPORTANCE OF NITROGEN.

most terrible poison, strychnia, we observe an endless variety
of different actions. With the exception of three, all these
substances produce diseased conditions in the healthy organ-
ism, and are poisonous in certain doses. Most of them are,
chemically speaking, basic or alkaline. No remedy, devoid
of nitrogen, possesses a poisonous action in a similar dose.
This consideration, or comparative view, has led to a more
accurate investigation of the composition of picrotoxine, the
poisonous principle of cocculus indicus ; and Mr. Francis has
discovered the existence of nitrogen in it, hitherto overlooked,
and has likewise determined its amount.”

In these instances, likewise, the nitrogen is in combination ;
and it is in virtue of the proportions of such combination
that the resulting compounds are thus powerful in their
effects on the animal economy ; but the nitrogen is essential
to the result, and it is not a mere diluent.

Once again — ■“ Disease occurs when the sum of vital
force, which tends to neutralise all causes of disturbance (in
other words, when the resistance offered by the vital force),
is weaker than the acting cause of disturbance.” — “In
medicine every abnormal condition of supply or of waste, in
all parts or in a single part of the body, is called disease.” —
Baron TLiebig.

Such illustrations, cited from such authority, manifest the
great importance of nitrogen in the economy of life, and in
the production and the cure of disease.

“The Edinburgh Medical and Surgical Journal,” No.
193, October, 1852, in an elaborate and able analytical review
of my “Letter to Dr. Lyon Playfair,” contains the following
passage, and also the well-selected quotation from Dr. Sutro’s
excellent “Lectures on the German Mineral Waters.”

USES AND IMPOETANCE OF NITBOGEN. 207

“The thermal spring of Wildbad in the Black Forest
contains, with a minute amount of saline matters, a large
amount of nitrogen, 80 per cent. ; and to the presence of
this gas, the German physicians and Dr. Sutro ascribe the
curative effects which the use of the Wildbad water exerts
upon chronic rheumatism, rheumatic gout, and stiffness and
nodosity of the joints. So also the waters of Pfeffers in the
Canton of St. Gallen in Switzerland, and that of Gastein in
the mountains of Salzburg, contain, the former a small pro-
portion of nitrogen, the latter a good deal more (2'02 in 10G
parts of water.) It seems therefore quite natural to ascribe to
the presence of this gas very notable effects upon the human
organism ; though in what exact manner these effects are
produced, it is not easy to understand and explain.

“ The opinion of Dr. Sutro is given in the following pas-
sage:— ‘Without oxygen we should suffocate, without nitrogen
we should starve. I should not go so far as to attribute a
nourishing property to the nitrogen introduced into the
absorbent vessels with the highly -diluted water. But when
it is admitted, on all hands, that our tissues constantly dis-
charge wasted particles in proportion to the regular additions
provided by the arterial supplies ; and when we know a great
part of this waste to issue from our cutaneous pores in a
gaseous form, would it not be reasonable to attribute some
restoratory function to the contact and combination of the
gas with organic particles? We know that, in old age,
earthy or inorganic formations prevail in the reproductive
sphere. Limbs become more rigid, the joints less pliable,
secretions retarded, excretions diminished, vital elasticity
and resisting power impaired. Substances ordinarily carried
rapidly along the vascular canals in a dissolved state, are now

208

GASEOUS CONSTITUENTS OF THE WATEES.

precipitated out of the slowly moving mass, and deposited
in spaces where they further impede voluntary movement.’

“ If we see the use of a mineral water, causing distinct
retrogression of these anti- vital phenomena ; if we perceive
gouty concretions to proceed towards absorption ; if we
observe contracted limbs gradually to relax again, and to try
feeble efforts of long-forgotten exercise ; if we find cutane-
ous harshness and rigidity to diminish, and to give way to a
former softness ; if we behold a resuscitated desire for mus-
cular exertion and for mental work in a prostrate individual,
and we know the spa, the originator of these changes, to
possess a great quantity of nitrogen, is it not legitimate to
attribute to this gas part of the efficacy ? ”

It is evident, then, that the results of Dr. Playfair’s and
Dr. Muspratt’s analyses justify a much enlarged expectation
as to the medicinal value of the Buxton tepid waters, based
upon what is known as to their chemical constitution. The
great and unlooked for discovery, that these waters may be
fairly assumed to contain 206 cubic inches of nitrogen per
gallon, at the moment of their issue, according to the analysis
by Dr. Playfair, and 504 cubic inches per gallon according
to that by Dr. Muspratt, leads to unavoidable inferences as
to their medicinal value and importance. And as the chem-
istry of healthy structure and function, and of diseased con-
ditions, attains a more advanced and influential and confirmed
position, it is probable that so great an elementary principle
as nitrogen, poured forth in such vast quantity, and with
such ceaseless rapidity, and in a form so readily available for
internal or external use as the Buxton tepid waters, may
acquire a greater and greater value ; adding to the prestige
and the fame due to their ascertained effect on disease, the

GASEOUS CONSTITUENTS OF THE WATERS. 209

confirmation and precision of sound theoretical data ; and
enabling their use to be extended to any and all the various
forms of disordered action, in which the direct supply and
influence of nitrogen to the fluids, or the tissues, or affected
organs of the body, might be ascertained to be a direct mode
of antagonising disease. It seems to be probable, that the
great effect of these waters upon some diseases, which has
been so long known, and so largely appreciated, may be thus
accounted for; and it may probably be hoped, that, in its
turn, the effect of introducing so much free nitrogen into the
system may help to explain the nature of the diseases on
which these waters act so energetically. So long as 818
cubic inches of nitrogen per imperial gallon were supposed
to be the whole amount of this important element contained
in the waters, it appeared to be difficult or impossible to
ascribe to it the great medicinal effect produced by the use
of the Buxton baths, or by drinking these waters. The recent
analyses have placed this question in a very different position.

Instead of 2 cubic inches of carbonic acid in the imperial
gallon of the waters, which was the result in the immediately
preceding analysis, Dr. Playfair’s analysis shows that there
are 3'47 cubic inches of this gas in the gallon, after having
deducted for every form in which the remaining 1219 cubic
inches obtained from it may be supposed to be held in com-
bination. The result of Dr. Muspratt’s analysis is 3'5 cubic
inches of free carbonic acid, per imperial gallon. But free
carbonic acid, even when contained in very large proportion
in mineral waters, is not found to have much medicinal effect.
Carbonic acid is chiefly valuable in mineral waters as a solvent
for more powerful ingredients, and as a means by which the
more rapid absorption of the waters, either through the skin

210

GASEOUS CONSTITUENTS OF THE WATERS.

or through the stomach, is secured. The effect of carbonic
acid in these less direct ways is by no means unimportant ;
and, so far, the larger proportion of this gas, now ascertained
to be contained in the waters, is worthy of notice ; but, after
all, the amount of carbonic acid contained in the waters is
small, when compared with that which is contained in many
mineral waters.

That no less than 206 cubic inches of free nitrogen may
be fairly assumed to be present in the imperial gallon, is a
much more extraordinary and interesting fact ; and no less
extraordinary and interesting when viewed in connection
with the great flow of the waters than when compared with
the results of the previous analysis. Confining the argument
to the results of Dr. Playfair’s analysis, and supposing, as
may be probable, that the whole flow of the waters is 300
gallons per minute, the amount of free nitrogen discharged
along with them is 61,800 cubic inches, or nearly 36 cubic
feet per minute ; and if, at a moderate estimate, 150 gallons
of the waters pass every minute through the baths and wells,
then 30,900 cubic inches per minute of this important ele-
mentary principle, with whatever medicinal action nitrogen
may subserve, are offered in an available form for either
external or internal use. And if the free application of un-
combined nitrogen to the surface of the body, or to the lining
membrane of the stomach, is capable of influencing the
human system in any degree, the medicinal effect of these
waters cannot but be held to be so far fully explained. The
proportion is so much greater than had hitherto been claimed
as being contained in any other mineral waters whatever,
that the belief in their medicinal character cannot but be so
far strengthened in an important degree. These waters have

SALINE CONSTITUENTS OF THE WATEES.

211

been more frequently compared and likened to the important
mineral waters of Wildbad, in Wurtemburg, than any other
of the great continental thermal waters, inasmuch as they
seem to be used with success in many of the same disordered
states of system, and inasmuch as the saline constituents
of the two waters are in many respects similar, and as the
Wildbad waters contain a considerable proportion of nitrogen.
But whereas 100 parts of the gas obtained from the Buxton
waters contain little more than one part of carbonic acid, and
only a trace of oxygen, nearly 99 parts consisting of free
nitrogen, 100 parts of the gas obtained from the Wildbad
waters contain 12| parts of carbonic acid, and parts of
oxygen, 79£ parts only being nitrogen ; and of this smaller
proportion of nitrogen, 36 parts, or nearly one-half must be
deducted as corresponding with the parts of oxygen, and
representing so much atmospheric air. The absence of oxy-
gen in the gas obtained from the Buxton waters enhances
the estimate of the nitrogen obtained from it, inasmuch as
the nitiogen is thus left free, and available for any purpose,
medicinal or otherwise, that so much free nitrogen may be
supposed to serve. And, according to Dr. Playfair’s analysis,
the Buxton waters are assumed to contain more than half
the proportion of free nitrogen that the well-known Seltzer
waters contain of carbonic acid : a statement which conveys
fully and. clearly a notion of the very large proportion of
nitrogen which is contained in the waters of the Buxton
tepid springs. But if the statement of Dr. Muspratt, that
these waters contain 504 cubic inches of nitrogen per gallon,
be admitted, the claims of the Buxton tepid water must be
held to be increased almost in the proportion of five to two
or to be considerably more than doubled; and the above

p

212

SALINE CONSTITUENTS OF THE WATERS.

statements and inferences must be held to be strengthened
by so much, until analysis shall have justified a tantamount
claim for some other mineral water of kindred chemical
character, and with similar effects upon specified morbid
states. It may seem to be invidious to compare these waters
with other warm mineral waters ; but it is surely just to set
forth its claims, not only to a distinguished, but, as it would
thus far appear, to a first position, in regard to the amount
of its impregnation with free nitrogen gas, and in regard to
whatever medicinal value may be believed to attach to it on
this account.

As to the solid constituents of the water, it is only in-
directly that the result of the more recent analyses can be
said to be of much importance. It is indeed needful, and
only the just due of a mineral water, to which the long-
continued and large resort of sufferers from rheumatism,
gout, &c., attach much importance, that the more advanced
state of chemistry should be brought to bear upon it from
time to time, in order to determine whether, or to what
extent additional discoveries as to the substances which enter
into its composition may bear out, explain, or extend its
usefulness and applicability in different diseases. Tbe result
is that silica, oxide of iron, alumina, fluorine, and phosphoric
acid have been for the first time ascertained to be among the
substances dissolved in the waters. The proportion of the
ingredients is indeed small. But since the presence of these
ingredients in the waters had not been detected, even by tbe
analysis which was made with so much care and skill by Sir
Charles Scudamore and Mr. Garden, at a time comparatively
so recent, and with all the means and appliances which chemis-
try then possessed, it seems to be an unavoidable inference,

COMPABISON OF THE BECENT ANALYSES.

213

that as this rapidly advancing science attains greater and
greater perfection in its processes and teachings, it may help
ns to explain more and more satisfactorily the means, by
virtue of which these waters act so usefully in the relief of
disease. Such explanation may prove to be derivable exclu-
sively, from the effect that may be referred to the direct
introduction of so much free nitrogen into the animal
economy, by the use of these waters, whether externally or
internally ; or it may be assigned, in part, to the introduc-
tion, in a peculiarly available state of combination and
dilution, of the solid ingredients already ascertained to be
contained in the waters; or it may come to be partially
referred to a constituent or constituents which have not
hitherto been detected in it. Looking at the great advance
which has been made in the science of chemistry, in the
minute accuracy of its manipulations and results, in the
closeness of its reasonings, the breadth of its deductions,
the value and bearing of its inferences, and its extensive and
much extended influences on all collateral branches of science,
both in medicine and the arts, it is impossible to doubt that
moie certainty may be obtained as to the modus operandi of
these waters in disease than we now possess. And vet the
facts already ascertained are so important and conclusive, in
legard to the solid and gaseous constituents of the waters,
as to warrant a full a priori confidence in its medicinal
character. By Dr. Pearson’s analysis, carbonic and sulphuric
acids, chlorine, sodium, lime, and free nitrogen, were ascer-
tained to be contained in them; this analysis was confirmed,
and the presence of magnesium detected by Sir Charles
Scudamore and Mr. Garden; and by Dr. Lyon Playfair’s
analysis, the presence of silica, iron, alumina, potassium,

214 RESULTS AND INFERENCES FROM ANALYSES.

fluorine, and phosphorus was ascertained. So large an
amount of additional information commands additional con-
fidence, and serves to confirm and establish the character
and value of the waters, independently of theories, and in
aid of the immemorial experience of their medicinal efficacy.

Dr. Muspratt’s analysis so far differs from that by Dr.
Playfair, as to give a larger proportion of silica, a much
smaller proportion of sulphate of lime and of chloride of
potassium, and two grains less of total saline constituents in
the gallon of water. Inasmuch, however, as Dr. Playfair’s
analysis was obtained from the residue of 100 gallons of
the water reduced by boiling to about half a gallon, it may
be probably held to be the more authoritative analysis, so far
as regards the saline constituents of these waters. What is
much more interesting is, that Dr. Muspratt obtained from
the waters an appreciable proportion of organic matter.
Although only amounting to one-third of a grain per gallon,
and therefore not justifying the slightest imputation of
impurity, more particularly as found in waters that must
arise from vast depths, and must have percolated great beds
of strata, this small proportion of organic matter may have
an important degree of influence on the absorption of the
waters through the pores of the skin during the immersion
in the baths, and may contribute to or produce the remark-
able emollient effect on the skin that is produced by the
bathing in these waters.

It seems to be sufficient, and to be as much as consists
with the present state of information, to have learned that
these waters contain these saline and gaseous constituents,

to ascertain what effects the use of the waters, as baths

and internally, produces on the human system m health, and

ESTIMATE OF AN AMMONIACAL HYPOTHESIS. 215

in different disordered or diseased conditions — and to assume
that the effects must be referable to what has been ascertained
as to the constituents of the waters. It would have been
impossible to infer a priori, that a certain proportional
combination of three or four elementary substances would
produce an alimentary substance, a certain other combined
proportion of the same elementary substances would produce
a substance having valuable medicinal properties, a third
proportional combination of the same substances produce a
virulently poisonous compound, and a fourth compound 0£
the same ingredients produce a substance that would be
neither alimentary, nor medicinal, nor poisonous, but a sub-
stance insoluble in the gastric secretions, and altogether
inert when received into the human stomach. And yet the
chemistry of organic substances furnishes many instances of
this remarkable character, which the present amount of our
information leaves unexplained. The same component ele-
ments, in different proportions, form the most powerful of
the vegetable tonics (quinine), the most active of the veget-
able narcotics (morphia), the most powerful of the vegetable
poisons (picrotoxine), and the most valuable of alimentary
restoratives (animal and vegetable fibrine). The effects of
these compounds are no less certain, and the grounds for
their use are no less trustworthy and defined, because the
reason of such difference in property cannot be ascertained.
The admission, that the degree of effect or the kind of effect
on the system of the Buxton tepid waters, could not be pre-
dicated from the nature of their chemical constituents, is no
invidious or singular admission of limited knowledge ; nor
can it affect the trust which science attaches to experience,
when the peculiar character of the tepid mineral waters is

216 ESTIMATE OE AN AMMONIACAE HYPOTHESIS.

thus established. An important amount of medicinal value
may be claimed for them, on the exclusive ground of their
chemical constitution.

It has been advanced, as a mode of explaining the action
of the Buxton tepid waters upon the animal economy, that
the absorption of the nitrogen with which they are so largely
charged, leads to the formation of so much ammonia, by in-
volving the decomposition of a due proportion of water to
furnish the required amount of hydrogen; and that the am-
monia thus formed, and brought to bear immediately upon
the blood and tissues, is the essentially curative principle of
these mineral waters. There is no foundation for this hypo-
thesis ; the supposed conversion of the nitrogen into
ammonia is entirely conjectural, and extremely unlikely ; and
even if it were otherwise, the action of ammonia would be
inadequate to explain that of the Buxton waters. These
waters are more stimulating and more alterative in their
effects, than could be accounted for in this way. This am-
moniacal hypothesis is attempted to be supported by a state-
ment, that the diseases for which the action of the Buxton
waters is known to be remedial, are marked by a deficiency
of ammonia in the secretions. Animal chemistry, however,
demonstrates the incorrectness of this assertion. Even the
urine of healthy persons does not contain so much ammonia
as serves to neutralize the acids which it contains, and urine
ought always to show a slight excess of acidity ; and in
almost all the diseases of excitement, or of inflammatory
character, the urine is likewise, in at least an equal degree,,
characterised by predominant acidity. But the ammonia
which characterises urine is, for the most part, formed by
the putrescence of the urea, and other highly animalised

ESTIMATE OF AN AMMONIACAE HYPOTHESIS. 217

matters contained in it, long- after it has been discharged
from the system. If the remarkable similarity in composi-
tion of carbonate of ammonia and urea be considered ; and
the fact, that a considerable proportion of the excess of uric
acid in gouty and rheumatic conditions, would seem to be
obtained at the expense of the urea, and to be the consequence
of an imperfect decarbonisation of the blood during the pro-
cess of respiration, as ably urged by Dr. Gairdner in his
excellent treatise on Gout ; the utter fallacy of this ammo-
niacal view, as to the action of the Buxton waters, either as
regards the effects of ammonia, or the condition of disease,
is fully demonstrated. Medical men need not be told that
ammonia is equally inadequate for the relief of gout or the
cure of rheumatism, in whatever form it may be used.

CHAPTEK VI.

THE CRESCENT, AND THE RANGES OF BATH-BUILDINGS.
ESTIMATED FLOW OF THE TEPID WATERS. THE
NATURAL AND HOT BATHS, DOUCHES,

WELLS, ETC.

|HE mineral waters are situated in the lower part of
Buxton, emerging from several natural openings in
the limestone rock, very near to the edge of the
mountain limestone formation. The baths, wells, Ac., are
necessarily placed as near as may he to the fissures from
which the waters issue, and had to be constructed at the
somewhat low level to which the waters rise. The baths
are contained in two wings, at the east and west ends of the
Crescent.

The range of bath buildings at the east end of the
Crescent contains the hot-bath establishment, Ac. The range
at the west end of the Crescent contains the St. Ann’s Well,
the Chalybeate Well, and the ranges of baths in which the
waters are used at the natural temperature of 82 degrees.

“ The diameter of the inner circle on which the Crescent
is built is about two hundred and forty feet, that of the outer
one, three hundred ; and the breadth of each wing is about
fifty-seven feet, making the length of the whole building
nearly three hundred and sixty feet. The upper stories in
the front are supported by an arcade, within which is a paved
walk, about seven feet wide, where the company may take

THE CKESCENT.

219

•air and exercise without being incommoded by bad weather.
The area in front is a smooth gravel plot, some feet below
the level of the arcade, well supplied with garden chairs for
the accommodation of the walkers.

“The building has three stories. The arcade is of the
rusticated character. Above the arches, an elegant balus-
trade extends along the whole front and the ends of the
fabric. Over the piers of the arcade arise fluted Doric pilas-
ters, that support the architrave and cornice. The trygliphs
of the former and the rich underpart of the latter have a
beautiful appearance. The termination above the cornice is
formed by another balustrade, that extends along the whole
building. The front contains forty-two pilasters, and two
tiers of windows above the arches, thirty-nine windows in
each tier ; to these add the lower windows, those in the ends,
and in the back of the building, and there arises a total of
three hundred and seventy-eight windows.”— Jewel’s His-
tory of Buxton, 1811.

The Square is connected with the Crescent by a colonnade ;
the colonnade extends along three sides of the Square ; and
the colonnade which skirts the internal area of the Crescent
and the external area of the Square, forms a covered walk of
a hundred and seventy-live yards in length.

Both the great ranges of bath buildings are covered, and
their interiors are well lighted. Due ventilation is secured
by shafts and other appliances of the best modern construc-
tion. When the amount of watery vapour necessarily
discharged from the warm waters, as they are poured into
the reservoirs, and thence into the baths, in such vast
quantities, is considered, and the amount of heat which is
given out from the waters, and the quantity of nitrogen and

220

RANGE OE NATURAL BATHS.

carbonic acid gases constant! y disengaged from them, are
taken into account, — the importance of a free ventilation at
all times, and a command over the means of adding to its
degree at pleasure, will be appreciated, and felt to be
peculiarly needful.

The western or natural bath department, occupies a space
of ground between the Crescent and the Hall, and has a
comparatively small extent of frontage. This limited space
is occupied by an elevation of dressed stone, surmounted by a
balustrade, aud presenting five compartments. Of these, the
three in the centre are occupied by domed, semi-circular,
recessed, and fluted spaces, of windowed size and shape ; the
base of every recessed space being formed of a vase, from the
centre of which a jet of water may be made to play. ( See

the ilhistration.) This architectural front has been adapted
in its style to the Crescent, with which it is connected, and
to the uses of the building it appertains to ; and it serves to
illustrate the suitableness of the stone of the adjoining grit-
stone formation for ornamental building — its fine and beau-
tiful grain, and the smooth surface and bold and sharp edges
with which it may be finished and carved, either in relief or
otherwise.

The elevation of the eastern, or hot-bath department, is
not interfered with by any other building, and forms a
decorated and substantial example of what must be called
the Crystal-Palace style of architecture, — a style which is one
of the great creations of our times, and which is calculated
to produce, directly or indirectly, a most important change
in the character and details of modern architecture. ( See the
illustration.) Presenting frontages of glass and iron, on the
south and the east ; every enarched compartment having a

EANGE OF HOT BATHS. — ST. ANN S WELL.

221

breadth of four feet six inches ; the building1 is nearly 30
yards in width, and more than 60 yards in depth. It is
placed substantially on a base of wrought and smoothed stone.

.Both these departments of baths are approached from the
colonnades of the Crescent and the Square by contiguous
1 arcades • and there is a roofed passage of communication
from the Hall.

At the south-west corner of the Crescent, entered from
the Crescent Colonnade, is the St. Ann’s Well for the use of
the drinkers of the water. This more recent well is on the
site of the oldest St. Ann’s Well that is on record, and close
to the spot at which the spring emerges by which the well is
supplied. The apartment containing the well is entered from
the colonnade, without exposure to the weather. The well
room is lofty, and lighted from above; the well in the centre
being surrounded by a ledge of marble, on which to place the
glasses,— supported by a partition, from within which the
water is dispensed to the drinkers.

On the north side of the entrance to the St. Ann’s Well*
and close to it, is the entrance to the gentlemen’s department
of the natural baths ; next to this is the entrance to the ladies’
department of the natural baths; and next to this, and opening
from the Crescent Colonnade in the same way is the well for
the supply of the chalybeate water to the drinkers.

The size of the room containing the chalybeate well is
twenty-two feet by sixteen feet, and lighted from above.
The chalybeate water is poured from three orifices into an
ornamental basin, in the centre of this apartment.

Every one of the baths in the natural-bath and the hot-
bath departments is separately supplied with the mineral
waters, from closed reservoirs, in which the tepid waters are

CHALYBEATE WELL. — BATH RESERVOIRS.

000

collected, as they are poured from the fissures in the lime-
stone rock. The separate supply thus afforded to every one
of the haths is so large, that the temperature of from 80
degrees to 82 degrees is maintained, and the gaseous and
chemical properties of the waters are preserved. In regard
to the natural baths, there is not only this separate supply of
the mineral waters, but the waters are constantly running
into and out of them ; the supply for every bath being
received directly from the reservoir which feeds it, and
carried away at once through the waste pipes into the river.
As in the instance of the other baths, the haths which are
devoted to the use of the patients of the Hospital have
likewise this independent, untouched, and abundant supply
of the tepid waters.

The flow of the tepid waters is amply sufficient for every
purpose ; and the amount which is discharged altogether is
even considerably greater than the very large quantity which
is now made use of. Were the whole of the flow to he
determinable — thus constantly discharged — in unvarying
quantity — of the unvarying temperature, at the moment of
issue, of a fraction of a degree more than 82 degrees Fah-
renheit— and of unchanging chemical character — the whole
quantity poured forth would probably be found to be not less
than 250 or 300 gallons per minute.

Dr. Short, writing in the year 1734, says, “ all these four
springs together,” viz., those of the inner bath, the outer
bath, St. Ann’s Weil, and Bingham’s Well, “throw forth in
a year 97,681,860 gallons of water, besides the waste water
that gets out of the bath, and the strong spring rising up in
the middle of the bath level beyond St. Ann’s Well, and the
warm water which rises up in the hot and cold spring, and

AMOUNT OF FLOW OF THE TEPID WATEKS. 223

lastly the two small warm springs which rise up in the low
ground between the hot and cold spring in the sough, with
several other oozings of warm water in sundry other places,
the whole added together will be nearly double this compu-
tation.” But even this estimate, which Dr. Short states to
have been the earliest which had ever been made, gives 185
wine gallons, viz., 139 imperial gallons per minute as the
flow of the four springs; which he was induced to estimate
as only half that of the amount of tepid water actually dis-
charged, if the whole had been collected, and none permitted
to run to waste. The flow of Bingham’s Well and of St.
Ann’s Well, according to Dr. Short’s estimate, being de-
ducted from the above, amounting to 261 gallons per minute,
would leave a flow of 1121 gallons per minute for the supply
of the natural baths in the year 1734, i.e., forty-six years
before the foundations of the Crescent were laid. Fifty years
after this estimate had been made by Dr, Short, an estimate
of the flow supplying the natural baths, exclusive of that
of the other wells and springs, was made by Dr. Pearson.
This estimate was made in the year when the Crescent was
completed, viz., 1784; and the flow is stated as having been
“nearly 140 ale gallons per minute,” which would be 116|
imperial gallons. These estimates confirm one another very
remarkably, and justify our great confidence in the state-
ments of these observers.

Much of the flow of the tepid waters supplying the natural
baths would seem to have been lost between the years 1784
and 1851 ; as according to a report which was made to Mr.
Smithers, by Mr. Eddy and Mr. Darlington, the engineers,
in November, 1851, the amount of flow which supplied the
natural baths at that time was only S4§ imperial gallons

224

DEPTH OF NATURAE BATHS.

per minute. In the process of levelling and excavation for
the formation of the new natural baths, a larger amount of
flow was regained than that which had thus gradually come
to he wasted ; and 129^ imperial gallons per minute of these
tepid waters are now poured forth for the supply of the
natural baths exclusively, in addition to the flow by which
the hot baths, and that by which the drinking wells are
supplied. It will be observed that this flow is greater to
the extent of 17 gallons per minute than the quantity of
water supplying these baths in 1734; and greater by 13
gallons per minute than the supply in 1784.

The depth of water in all the gentlemen’s natural baths
is 4 feet 8 inches; and the depth of water in the ladies’
natural baths is 4 feet 2 inches. These baths are therefore
used in the erect position, in order to admit of free exercise
and movement during the period of immersion. This is
essential in baths of water, at the natural temperature of the
Buxton tepid springs, viz., 82. degrees Fahrenheit. Although
the temperature of 82 degrees constitutes a bath of tepid
character, and may be said to be about 20 degrees higher
than the temperature of river water in the summer season,
in these high latitudes, it is nevertheless 16 degrees below
the temperature of the internal organs of the human body,
and 13 degrees to 14 degrees below that of the surface of
the body. A bath of 82 degrees would therefore be unwisely
made use of in the recumbent position. The degree of
muscular action which is involved in the maintenance of the
body in the erect position, lessens the risk of chill attend-
ing or resulting from the use of the baths, even when the
limbs are not kept in more or less active movement during
the time of bathing. Crippled and paralysed conditions

EXEECISE AND EKICTION WHILE BATHING.

225

sometimes preclude any such movement of the limbs, or any
very important amount of muscular exercise during the use
of the bath. But, in most cases, active exercise is not thus
precluded or interfered with during immersion in the water ;
and the erect position in which the baths are used leaves the
trunk of the body and the limbs under full command, and
renders every desired degree of exercise usually obtainable.
The baths are of sufficient size, as well as sufficient depth,
for this important purpose; and they are, moreover, sur-
rounded with handrails, and supplied with swinging chains,
in order that the bather may obtain any desired amount of
exercise during the use of the bath.

It is by no means exclusively on account of the tempera-
ture of the water, that as much muscular exercise as is
otherwise expedient and practicable should be taken during
the use of these mineral baths, The absorption of the water
through the skin into the system seems to be indispensable
to the effect of bathing in any mineral water. This absorp-
tion is secured and promoted by bodily exercise, and friction
of the surface of the body, during the use of the bath. Very
little absorption of the water is believed to take place through
the skin, if the bather remains quiescent while immersed in
the bath ; and the greater the amount of friction of the skin,
and the more active and general the degree of the muscular
exertion which is made, the greater the amount of absorption
under the same circumstances. This is applicable to baths
of any temperature; but it is more particularly important
in using baths of mineral waters; and more especially of
those mineral waters, which may be chiefly dependent, for
their medicinal action, upon the amount of the gaseous
impregnation which they contain.

226 CUTANEOUS ABSORPTION WHILE BATHING.

The degree to which the skin is absorbent has been the
frequent subject of experiment and discussion. Some sub-
stances are more readily absorbed than others ; and many
substances, as mercury, show, from their medicinal action,
that they are absorbed, although not amenable to chemical
tests. An increase in the amount of the secretion from the
kidneys is almost always experienced after the use of the
Buxton baths ; and the secretion is usually lowered in its
specific gravity, and rendered less acid in its character. If
not absorbed, the action of these waters when used as baths
is inexplicable : — a character and amount of effect upon
rheumatic and other local and general conditions, that may
be held to be one of the strongest arguments in favour of
the absorbent powers of the skin, as to these and certain
other medicinal agents, if assisted by friction, or by exercise
during immersion. The alkaline character of the waters,
and their emollient and detergent effects, must aid the de-
gree to which they are absorbable through the skin; and
the gaseous constituents of the waters may be considered to
add to this effect. The relaxed and moist state of the skin,
generally and locally, of persons afflicted with rheumatism,
gout, &c., may aid the degree of the absorption, and help to
explain the medicinal results.

All the baths are supplied with douches, or continuous jets
of water, made to issue with a considerable amount of force,
and which may be directed against, and played upon any part
of the body, limbs, or joints, which may be more particularly
affected. The douche is an exceedingly valuable remedy in
many chronic localised ailments. Sprains and similar in-
juries of the textures near to the surface — the seats of
re-united fractures and reduced dislocations, which are often

DOUCHES OF THE WATEES.

227

left for a long time after such injuries in a very imperfect
and painful condition — cases of spinal weakness, and localised
chronic infirmities of rheumatic or gouty character — and
local forms of paralysis, sometimes traceable to exposure to
cold and wet, sometimes to the effect of lead and other
mineral poisons — are found to derive much greater or more
rapid effects from the use of the hath when combined with
the douche than when used without it.

The medicinal value of the douche is due to the greater
degree of absorption of the mineral waters, through the skin,
by the parts submitted to its action ; the effect of the impulse
and percussion of the jet of water being tantamount to active
friction with pressure. The readiness with which the degree
of this friction may be controlled, by regulating the force of
the jet and the time of the application ; the much greater
amount of this kind of friction that may usually be borne,
without inconvenience at the time, or discomfort afterwards,
than of rubbing with anything of harder character than the
water itself; the amount of pressure with which the jet acts
on the part submitted to it, answering the full purpose of
most efficient shampooing ; the perfect adaptation and equa-
lisation of the pressure and friction over the whole surface
douched, notwithstanding any curves or inequalities of the
body or limbs, while the medicinal properties of the water
aie absorbed and brought to bear immediately upon the part
or parts which may be more particularly affected— are the
evident reasons why the douches of the mineral waters prove
to be of such great value in the treatment of many localised
and disabling ailments. And it is not too much to say, that
some of the most wonderful and gratifying instances of relief
obtained from the use of the Buxton waters have been refer-
Q

228 LOCAL EFFECT OF THE BATHS AND DOUCHES.

able to their use in the form of douches. A noble duke had
his foot trodden upon by a horse. The foot was not appa-
rently injured after the primary irritation had subsided.
There was no perceptible swelling of the foot, nor thicken-
ing- of the bones or ligaments of the arch of the foot,
which had been injured. But there was much crippling,
and some occasional pain. To walk was difficult ; and to
take- an amount of walking exercise adequate to the wants
and duties of life was impossible. Months passed away ;
the most skilful surgical opinions and appliances were found
to be useless. In three weeks, under the use of the baths
and douches of the Buxton water, the patient was enabled to
walk three miles continuously, without lameness at the time,
or inconvenience aftewards, Such cases might be multiplied
to any extent. This case is cited, because, from the high
position of the sufferer, considerable attention was attracted
to it at the time ; and because it is one of many such cases
of local injury, in which a cure by the use of the baths and
douches of these mineral waters may be looked for with much
confidence.

But the effect of the baths alone, without the use of the
douche, upon local lesions, even of remote date, is most-
curious and conclusive : evidencing their great influence on
the deeply seated and dense fibrous tissues, which are so
rarely remediable by ordinary means of treatment. The sites
of fractures or other serious injuries, that have happened in
the earlier years of life, become sensitive when these baths
are used in mature and even advanced life ; and stiffness and
imperfect use are often removed, that have been of many
years’ duration. An elderly lady made use of the baths on
account of rheumatism of both knees, not only with satis-

LOCAL EFFECT OF THE BATHS AND DOUCHES. 229

factory relief to the rheumatism, but with the effect of
restoring use to one of the hands which had been injured by
a fall thirty years before, and which had been so contracted,
that she had been unable to open it from the time of the
accident. There was the evidence of her son and her niece,
both of mature age, as to the contracted state of the hand
from the time of the injury ; and the restored power was seen
by numbers of people. Minor instances of this kind are so
common, that cases of injury, and consequent diminished
power of movement, should resort to the baths without
reference to the lapse of time, as affording- a reasonable chance
of recovery, it there have been no destruction or extreme
displacement of the injured textures. While such cases
supply the most gratifying proofs of the action of the waters,
the question is often asked why they do not act as promptly
and as conclusively upon the cases of constitutional ailment
attended by local lesions of similar character, and involving
a similar disability of movement ? The reply is, that the
removal of local lesion without any constitutional bias or
complication, must be a smaller result than the cure of a
morbid condition which may be traceable to hereditary
influences, and may have impaired the restorative powers of
the system. It is not too much to infer, and experience
supports the inference, that the same means, which, in a
shorter time, can remove such lesions when not complicated
with constitutional conditions, may, in a longer time, afford
a probability of removing them when by so much less
amenable to the action of remedies.

The gentlemen’s department of the natural baths is entered
by a corridor, which is sixty feet in length, and of an ample
width and height; and which gives access to two large

230

THE NATURAL BATHS.

public baths, to the private baths, and shower baths, of the
water at the natural temperature.

The “Gentlemen’s Public Bath, No. 1,” or “Two Shilling
Bath,” is contained in an apartment which is nearly fifty-one
feet long, more than thirty-three feet wide, and upwards of
twenty feet high, from the top of the water in the bath to
the ceiling of the room. The bath itself is twenty-six feet
in length, and eighteen feet in width. This large apartment
contains suitable dressing closets, and all other desirable
comforts and conveniences ; and is lighted by means of a
double tier of windows. This bath is on the site of the oldest
of the baths ; but the new bath is two feet longer, and two
feet and a half wider than the former one ; the apartment is
nearly double the height ; it is well lighted (instead of being
somewhat dingily dark), and dry, and well warmed and
ventilated (instead of being more or less close and damp at
all times).

The “Gentlemen’s Public Bath, No. 2,” or “One Shilling
Bath,” likewise furnished with dressing closets and all other
comforts and conveniences, is twenty-seven feet long, and
fifteen feet wide. The apartment is not so lofty, nor so well
lighted as the No. 1 bath ; but it is larger, and better lighted
than this bath used to be ; and the area is well warmed
and ventilated.

The gentlemen’s private baths are eleven feet long, and
five feet wide, with private dressing rooms, and shower baths,
and every comfort and accommodation.

The ladies’ department of the natural baths is likewise

entered by a separate corridor.

The “Ladies’ Public Bath” is contained in an apartment
which is thirty -nine feet long, and thirty-nine and a half feet

< ci fi to ft] p hj o tzi g tr1 ft m y p p ft tJ Q td >

GBOUND PLAN OF NATUBAL BATHS, WELLS, ETC.

llefercnce to Ground Plan of
Natural Baths.

THE NATURAL BATHS.

231

wide. The bath itself is twenty-three feet long, and eighteen
feet wide. There are dressing closets, and all desirable and
comfortable appurtenances.

The “Ladies’ Private Bathe” are eleven feet long, and five
feet wide, and supplied with douche apparatus ; there are
also shower baths connected with these baths ; and they are
furnished with separate dressing-rooms, and every accessory
to comfort.

The baths of the waters at the natural temperature, pro-
vided for the use of the patients of the hospital, are equal
in every essential particular to those already mentioned.

The Men’s Charity Bath is contained in an apartment
which is twenty-sis feet six inches long, and twenty feet
wide ; the bath itself being twenty feet long and fifteen feet
wide. There are dressing boxes and every needful comfort,
douche apparatus, &c.

The Women’s Charity Bath apartment is thirty feet long
and twenty feet wide ; the bath being twenty feet long’ and
fifteen feet wide. There are dressing boxes, douche pump,
&c., &c.

It is mentioned by the late Dr. J oseph Denman, in a work
entitled Observations on the Buxton Water,” published in
1801, in strong terms, as a great disadvantage to the use-
fulness of the Buxton waters, that no provision had been
made for supplying baths of the mineral water at any higher
degree of temperature than the natural heat. It was not
until the year 1818, or seventeen years after the publication
of this decided opinion in favour of warmer baths of the
mineral waters, that this deficiency was in any degree sup-
plied. But Dr. Denman could not have foreseen, nor could
any adequate anticipation have been formed, as to the amount

THE HOT BATHS.

of benefit which would accrue from the use of artificially
heated baths of the Buxton tepid waters, and the conse-
quently greater and greater demand for these baths on the
part of the public.

Much apprehension has been always entertained, lest the
raising of the temperature of these waters, in ever so small a
degree, might have the effect of impairing the medicinal
qualities. Such an apprehension might seem to be the more
justifiable, inasmuch as the opinion has come to be more and
more generally held, that the medicinal effect of the waters
depends, to an important extent, upon the gases which they
hold in solution, and which might be likely to be more and
more driven off, as the temperature of the water is more and
more raised. It has to be remembered, however, that the
whole of the waters poured forth from these springs, and
supplied to the baths, have naturally the elevated tempera-
ture of 80 degrees or upwards ; and that the very larg-e
proportion of the water in a bath is unmeddled with, until
the moment of introducing the relatively small quantity of
the same water heated, which is necessary to raise the water
of the bath to such higher temperature as may be required.
Supposing the temperature of common spring or river water
to be about 50 degrees, a bath of 95 degrees would require
the addition of so much hot water as would elevate the tem-
perature of the water 45 degrees ; whereas, in the instance
of the tepid waters of Buxton, the difference of temperature
would be only 15 degrees, and the addition of one-tliird only
of the proportion of heated water to the bath would be
necessary. So small a proportion of heated water has to be
added to the natural water, to raise its temperature to that
of any ordinary hot bath, that it has often been impossible.

HOT BATHS.

COMPARATIVE EFFECTS OF THE HOT BATHS. 233

when these baths have been in very great demand from
morning' till night, to prepare a bath in the hot-bath depart-
ment, at a lower temperature than 88 degrees, or even
sometimes than 90 degrees ; the heat of the marble sides and
floorings of the baths, and of the pipes conveying the hot
water, &c., being sufficient to raise by so much the tempera-
ture of the natural water, without the addition of any heated
water at all. It may be justifiably advanced, that the tem-
perature of these mineral waters affords the greatest facility
for their use in the form of baths, at any required degree of
temperature, with the least possible risk of impairing their
effects. In a very large proportion of the cases in which
these baths are required, the natural temperature is precisely
that which would be desired. The degree of heat is that at
which the slightest degree of shock would be given on im-
mersion, and a due amount of .reaction be rendered the most
certain to follow the use of the bath,— at which the good,
without the evil effects of cold bathing, would be experienced.
At any higher temperature, the regular use of the baths
would be more likely to be attended by debilitating effects.
Whereas, as has been stated, any such higher degree of heat
for a bath may be obtained most readily, by the addition of a
very small proportion of heated water ; and with so much less
risk of diminishing the amount of the medicinal properties of
the waters. It may be advanced, that, if the Buxton waters
had been of so much higher a degree of natural heat,
the water would have had to be lowered in its temperature,
bj the addition of cold or cooler water to it, in order to adapt
its heat, for the purpose of bathing’, to the requirements of a
large number of invalids; more of the medicinal properties
must have been diminished by such addition, or such exposure,

234 COMPARATIVE EFFECT OF THE HOT BATHS.

than takes place under present circumstances ; and if this
water had been at such a natural degree of heat, that it could
not have been used in any case without having been previ-
ously eooled by addition or exposure, the disadvantage and
loss of properties must have been very important. But the
proportion of invalids who use the natural baths is greater
than that of those who use the heated baths ; and those who
use the heated baths have, as nearly as may he, the full ad-
vantage of the medicinal properties of the waters, to the extent
to which the water used in the baths is in its untouched and
natural state ; the bath being only affected in that proportion
in which hot water is added, and in which the whole of the
water in the bath may be supposed to be influenced by being
mixed with so small a proportion of heated water, and by
the temperature of all the water in the bath being raised any
given number of degrees above the natural heat. The
principal difference in effect between the heated and the
natural water is, in all probability, due to the difference of
temperature ; and this difference cannot be so important as
might have been supposed to be probable, for the reason that
so little of the water has to be made hot, in order to raise the
temperature of a bath of 82 degrees to any required degree
of heat up to 95 degrees ; beyond which temperature, it is
rarely found to he either needful or expedient in any case, to
raise the temperature of the water in these baths. It follows,
that the greater the extent to which the mineral waters have
to be heated, the greater the degree to which the medicinal
efficacy is diminished. But when the above statements are
carefully considered, it must be admitted to be wonderful
that so small an addition of heated water to the natural water
as is required should influence the medicinal effects in any

COHPAEATIVE EFFECT OF THE HOT BATHS.

235

appreciable degree ; and the usual estimate, that three baths
of the water at the temperature of 95 degrees are only equal
to two natural baths, is at all events as high an estimate of
the difference between the amount of relative effect as is
justifiable. And, accordingly, numbers of cases, in which the
use of these heated baths has to be trusted to exclusively, the
use of the colder natural bath being contra-indicated by any
individual circumstance of such cases, are found to be re-
lieved or cured as completely as if the natural baths had
been made use of. Many periosteal, neuralgic, spinal,
paralytic, and atonic cases, — many cases of rheumatism and
gout, attended with much debility,— many cases, in which
acute or active morbid action has been recent, or perhaps
may have imperfectly subsided, — many cases, in which dis-
turbance or irritation of the heart’s action, or of the mucous
or the fibrous tissues, or of any of the great viscera, may
render the shock of a bath of 82 degrees inexpedient or
hazardous, and a less active agent than the unmodified baths
of the Buxton tepid waters to be preferable, whether in the
first instance, or throughout the course of the baths— such
cases, and they are very numerous, find in these hot baths,
adapted in temperature, &c., to the individual indications,
the means of using these waters without risk, and with
every probability of benefit.

The hot-bath department, placed, as has been said, at the
east end of the Crescent, occupying a frontage to the south
of 90 feet, and to the east of 180 feet, is connected with
the Crescent, the Square, the Hall, and the natural baths,
by a colonnade ; and is divided into two separate parts, one
of which is devoted to ladies, and the other to gentlemen.
None of the baths in this department have had to be placed

230

ABBAN GrEMENT OF THE BATHS.

beneath existing structures, as has had to be done in regard
to two of the public baths in the other department ; a suffi-
ciently extensive and unoccupied space of ground has been
covered throughout by a ridge-and-furrow roof, and arranged
internally in the best and most efficient manner.

The gentlemen’s hot-bath department, to which a colon-
nade in the south front of the building, eighty feet in length,
gives access, is entered by a corridor which is likewise eighty
feet long. The several baths are entered from this corridor.

The range of private baths is extensive and complete, with
separate dressing-rooms, with shower baths, and with every
other appliance which may conduce to comfort or advantage.
These baths are prepared of any heat that may be desired.

The hot baths are lined throughout with marble, or with
the patent white porcelain-covered bricks. The douches in
the hot baths are served at any required temperature. The
hot baths are shallow, and used in the recumbent position.

The ladies’ hot-bath department corresponds exactly with
that appropriated to gentlemen. It is entered by its separate
corridor, eighty feet long, from the arcade on the south front
of the building ; the baths being likewise extensive and com-
plete, with separate dressing-rooms, and every accessory
arrangement for convenience or comfort.

This great building likewise contains the hot baths for the
use of the patients of the hospital. These baths are ap-
proached by an entrance on the north of the building. There
are separate bath-rooms for men and for women, each con-
taining two baths, with dressing-closets, douche-closet, &c.,
and entered from a comfortable waiting-room.

The account which has been given of the baths of .Buxton
may be more clearly understood, and the character and

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ABKANGEMENT OF THE BATHS.

237

amount of bathing accommodation be more completely ap-
preciated, by reference to the ground-plans. The arrange-
ment, the size, the number, and the convenient position of
the baths will be thus understood, and the amount of
provision which has been made for the wants of the public
may be in some degree estimated. But the lightness, and
elegance, and comfort of the interiors, and the happy adap-
tation of the construction to the purpose must be seen and
experienced to be adequately valued.

It will be seen at once, from an examination of the
annexed plans, that the corridors of the ladies’ and
gentlemen’s ranges of natural baths are entered from the
colonnades at the west end of the Crescent, as are like-
wise the apartments containing the St. Ann’s Well and the
Chalybeate Well, and that the corridors of the ladies’ and
gentlemen’s ranges of hot baths are entered from the colon-
nade at the east end of the Crescent. In order to realise
their position and general effect, the natural-bath and hot-
bath departments are to be considered to represent, respec-
tively, west and east wings to the important structure with
which they are connected, and with the architectural
character of which they have been made to harmonise as far
as possible. An attentive examination of the plans, in con-
nection with a reference to the engravings at the beginning
of the volume, will enable persons at a distance to understand
the arrangements. The large building which contains the
hot baths is also partly occupied by offices, shops, engine
house, &c.

CHAPTER VII.

PRIMARY, SECONDARY, AND ALTERATIVE EFFECTS OF THE
BUXTON TEPID WATERS. MORBID CONDITIONS FOR THE
RELIEF OF WHICH THEY ARE USEFUL. CIRCUM-
STANCES WHICH CONTRA-INDICATE THEIR
USE. RULES FOR THE USE OF THE BATHS
AND FOR DRINKING THE TEPID
WATERS.

HE effects of the baths of the Buxton tepid waters
upon the human system may be classed as primary,
secondary, and alterative.

The primary effects include the shock immediately
experienced on immersion in the water at the natural
temperature, and the reaction which should immediately

follow the shock ; whether the degree of the reaction be no
greater than is necessary to restore the general balance of
the circulation, or continue during many hours afterwards;
such an amount being included in the primary effects,
although it may produce a very important degree of stimu-
lation on the nervous and muscular systems. The secondary
effects, which are seldom experienced until several baths
have been taken — or in any very important degree unless
they have been taken during several successive days, or
unless the immersion has been continued during an unusual
length of time, or unless the bath lias been made use of by
those suffering from special morbid conditions— do not show

PKIMAEY EFFECTS OF THE BATHS. 239*

themselves until some hours after the bath has been used ;
and are then characterised by excitement, at times amount-
ing to a feverish state. The alterative and ultimate effects
are not usually produced until several baths have been taken ;
and are then characterised by more or less of general depres-
sion and languor, and their accompanying indications.

Under the head of the primary effects of these baths is
the degree of the shock which attends their use at the natural
temperature ; and this is believed to be so far peculiar, that
it is greater than would be occasioned by a bath of common
water at this tepid degree of heat. This greater degree of
shock is probably due to the large proportion of gases : a
proportion which, as there are 277f cubic inches of water in
an imperial gallon, and 2021 cubic inches of free carbonic
acid and nitrogen gases in the gallon, according to the
analysis by Dr. Lyon Playfair, or 5071 cubic inches of these
gases in the gallon according to the analysis by Dr. Mus-
pratt, would amount to a charge of the waters with nearly
their ownbulk,or with more than twice their own bulk of gases.
Usually, if the bath has been used under proper circum-
stances, the shock is of very short duration ; and is followed,
after a few seconds, and duriug the immersion, by a vigorous
reaction. The degree of reaction is commonly greater than
the degree of the shock which had preceded it, and much
greater than would attend the use of a bath of ordinary water
at the same temperature. The reaction, involving a general
glow of heat over the whole body and limbs, a somewhat
accelerated circulation, and a remarkable buoyancy of the
feelings, usually continues during several hours after the
bath, and is attended by an increase of appetite, and a marked
degree of excitement of the spirits. The special effect of the

240

SECONDARY EFFECTS OF THE BATHS.

baths, in regard to the primary shock, and the reaction
which immediately follows it, is however chiefly one of degree;
the same effect, hut less in its amount, being commonly
experienced after bathing in common water. The warm baths
of the mineral waters produce necessarily less shock, in pro-
portion as the water of the bath is more nearly of the same
temperature as that of the human body ; and the degree of
the reaction is usually less, other things being equal, than
that which follows the use of the natural baths ; but it is
usually greater, to a very marked extent, than commonly
follows the use of a warm bath of ordinary water.

The secondary effects of the baths are of a still more
peculiar character; differing much more from that which
follows the use of a bath of ordinary water, at any tempera-
ture. Seldom manifested until from eight to sixteen or
eighteen hours after the use of the bath ; and seldom, unless
under specially excitable and morbid conditions, until after
several baths have been made use of; the degree of the
secondary effects is added to, by the longer time that the
bather has remained in the bath, by the more frequent
repetition of the bath, and by the morbid or the constitutional
susceptibility of the system to become unduly stimulated.
The secondary effects include the increase of gouty and
rheumatic pains, so commonly experienced at the commence-
ment of a course of these baths, in such conditions of system ;
and likewise the thirst, restlessness, loss of sleep, feverish
symptoms, and less active state of the secreting organs,
•during the course, and especially during the earlier part of
the course, of the baths ; for, as the course is continued
longer and longer, the secondary effects gradually subside,
-and are succeeded after a longer or shorter interval, which

ALTEBATIVE EFFECTS OF THE BATHS.

241

varies much in different cases, by the alterative effects : the
feverish condition sometimes subsiding altogether ; hut in
most cases, in the first instance, alternating with the indi-
cations of the alterative action — alternating with the depres-
sion, languor, and eventual debility, which mark the full
alterative action of these mineral waters.

The alterative action of the baths is then essentially
characterised by symptoms of debility; and such symptoms
— apart, of course, from the relief of pain, the partially or
entirely restored use of crippled limbs, or the generally im-
proved state of the several organic functions — constitute the
great and conclusive proof of their full medicinal action. And
it may be strongly said, that the full effects can seldom be
considered to have been obtained, until some indications of
diminished general power have been shown. It is often of
some importance, in cases where much morbid condition has
to be removed, to determine how far the alterative action of
the baths should be continued ; and in most such cases the
course has to be interrupted and resumed many times. Some-
times two courses, and more rarely three courses may be
advisedly used in the course of the same year ; interrupted
bj a sufficient interval of time, to enable the powers and
general balance of the system to be so far restored as to
justify the lesumed use of so powerful an alterative as these
waters are. It is often a great mistake to infer, that the full
benefit derivable from their use is certain to be obtained from
one or two, or even more courses of the baths. I have seen
in the course of the 36 years during which the effects
of these waters have been under my observation — very many
cases in which a large and even unlooked for degree of
benefit has been obtained; but in which, after a persevering

242

DISEASES BELIEVABLE BY THE BATHS.

use of tlie baths through two or three courses, they have
been abandoned ; because they had not proved to be com-
pletely curative, although they had been so largely remedial.
I have seen the bed-ridden sufferers from gout and from
rheumatism enabled to walk about again, with the aid of
crutch, or stick, or both ; and enabled, contrary to any rea-
sonable expectation that could have been entertained, to
resume the horse exercise, which had been impracticable for
months or years ; and yet the hopeful continued use of these
waters has been abandoned, because a more rapid and entire
relief has not been afforded. It cannot be too early, or too
anxiously impressed on the minds of such sufferers from the
most severe forms of gout or rheumatism, that a strong
constitutional bias, the gradual result of hereditary predis-
position, or of the misdoings of years, and unchecked morbid
action, may not be entirely curable, even by the use of such
a great agent as these waters ; or, if curable, may only prove
to be so after a long, persevering, and patient use ; and that
a certain amount of relief, the degree of which may be even
beyond all reasonable hope, ought to afford an amply sufficient
motive for their continued use.

The diseases for the relief of which the Buxton baths are
found to be the most eminently useful are rheumatism, gout,
neuralgia, and certain forms of spinal, uterine, and dyspeptic
affections. Many of the disordered conditions which are
incidental to old age — much of the deranged health inciden-
tal to middle age in females — much of the uterine irregu-
larity and disturbed condition incidental to females at various
periods of life— much of the nervous weakness, that is
indicated by tic-doloureux in its various forms, sciatica, &c.
—much of the functional derangement of the kidneys, which

CONDITIONS CONTKA-INDICATING THE BATHS. 243

is consequent upon exposure, intemperance, or advanced life
— much of the disordered and painful conditions of the
bladder, &c., dependent on old age, gout, &c. — much of the
local loss of nervous, and thence of muscular power, depen-
dent upon the poisonous effects of lead, mercury, &c. — are
usually remediable, and in an important degree, by the use
of these mineral baths. And, as has been previously urged,
the painful or crippling consequences, which often follow
such injuries as fractures, dislocations, sprains, bruises of
tendons and ligaments, and the like, are commonly influ-
enced and relieved by the use of these baths, in the most
satisfactory degree.

The piesence of acute inflammation, and the existence of
organic disease in any of the great organs essential to life,
usually contra-indicate altogether the use of these baths.
The intimate connection between paralysis and disease of
the brain, or spinal chord, or their immediate envelopments
—the equally intimate connection between rheumatism and
affections of the heart— the frequent occurrence of pains of
rheumatic character, in connection with the general derange-
ment of health, consequent upon affection of the liver or
the kidneys— the connection between gout and visceral con-
gestion, and all the important bearings and consequences of
such congestion-the degree of liability there is, in acute
or subacute gouty and rheumatic states, to metastasis— are
severally, cogent reasons for the exercise of care and judg-
ment in the use of the baths. It cannot be said too strongly
that no invalid should leave his home in order to make use
of these baths without the express advice and sanction of
his usual medical attendant, and medical men cannot be
made too fully cognizant of the stimulating and alterative

244

EFFECT OF THE WARMER BATHS.

character of these mineral waters. And, moreover, as no
medical man who has not personally been concerned in the
use and effects of the waters can know so much about them
as those who have their effects under their continual obser-
vation, it may be said, with equal truth and emphasis, that
no person ought to use these waters without the sanction
and direction of a medical man resident in Buxton. It is
my duty to state this in so many words, and to urge it upon
public attention; and the seniority of my position enables
me to do this with a less chance of misconstruction, and
justifies me in doing so.

The warmer baths of the Buxton waters are weaker, less
stimulating, and less alterative in their effect, in the same
proportion as They are raised in their temperature above that
of 82 degrees ; and inasmuch as, when not heated beyond
the temperature of 95 degrees— that is, when no more of
the same water heated is added to a much larger bulk of the
water at the natural temperature than is required to raise
the whole water in a bath to 95 degrees, or less— not only a
sufficiently large, but a definable proportion of the medicinal
effects is retained ; inasmuch as the shock, with its risks, in
the cases of feeble and excitable invalids, is thus got rid of;
inasmuch as the primary stimulation, and the secondary
febrile state, and the ultimate alterative effects are thus
modified ; the use of these warmer baths frequently serves
as a valuable introduction to the after use of the natural
baths, and as a very useful substitute for them m cases where
debility, or excitability, would render the use of the natural
baths unwise or unsafe.

Neither the natural nor the warmer baths ought to be
used every day. When so used, the alterative effects are

EUXES FOE BATHING.

245

very liable to be manifested suddenly, and in excess. Strong
men who have ventured to bathe in these waters every day,
have often become suddenly and very unnecessarily debili-
tated ; and in the case of rheumatism and other ailments
having been the occasion for using these baths, the disad-
vantage has arisen that the bathing has had to be discontinued
for a time, and sometimes for months ; the full, and otherwise
realisable degree of relief, not having been obtained. The
impatience to secure the benefit from the use of the baths in
as short a time as possible, and the anxiety to return to their
homes and occupations, lead many to make such excessive
use of them, and supply ample and conclusive experience as
to their powerful character. Generally the baths are to be
used every other day ; or on two successive days, their use
being omitted on the third day.

The time of the day for bathing is a question of much
importance. The baths have usually most effect when used
before breakfast, and are commonly the best borne about
three hours after breakfast. The system is found to be
more susceptible to the action of medicinal agents, before
breakfast ; probably because the nervous and vascular powers
are more vigorous at that time, and the tissues are then in a
more absorbent condition. It is well known that stimulants
produce greater effect when taken before breakfast, and
tonics are seldom wisely directed to be taken at that time ;
and, on the same principle, the baths of these mineral and
stimulating waters are not by any means always wisely
ordered to be used before breakfast ; and, on the contrary,
many invalids are unable to bathe with comfort or even
safety before breakfast, who do so without discomfort
between breakfast and dinner. The time for using the baths

24G

RULES FOR BATHING.

after breakfast, depends muck upon the kind and amount of
the breakfast, and the rapidity of digestion. The larger and
heavier the meal, and the more slow the digestion, the longer
should the bath be deferred. And, on the other hand, in the
cases of much enfeebled persons, and of those who from
habit, or want of appetite, or general debility, eat but
sparingly at breakfast, and of the most easily assimilated
kinds of food, the use of the baths may not be wisely deferred
beyond the end of the second hour after breakfast, as the
complete digestion of the food in the stomach is apt to be
followed by an unmistakable degree of languor, and the bath
is not so well borne under such circumstances. It is gene-
rally advisable to use the baths between breakfast and
dinner, at the commencement of the course ; and in some
cases to use them before breakfast afterwards, when the
effects shall have been proved to be moderate, and the extra
effect obtained by bathing before breakfast may even be
thought to be desirable. Usually, more baths have to be
taken during a course, if the baths are used aftei bieakfast,
than if used before breakfast. The more feeble the person,
the more excitable the individual constitution, and the more
febrile or inflammatory the nature of the ailment, the less
desirable it is to bathe before breakfast ; and the less sus-
ceptible the individual system, the stronger the system, and
the more obstinate and unimpressible the nature of the
ailment, the more desirable it is that the baths should be
used before breakfast. The time during which persons
should remain in the baths varies very much ; but should
seldom if ever equal the long periods which are found to be
expedient in using many of the continental mineral baths.
From one minute, or less, to ten minutes, and very rarely to

RULES EOR BATHING.

247

fifteen or twenty minutes, is usually found to be a sufficient
time for the immersions in the natural baths : and from three
minutes to twenty minutes, and very rarely longer than the
latter time, in the warmer baths. Generally, the time of
immersion should be longer in the warmer than in the
natural baths ; and longer, the higher the temperature of the
warmer baths may be. Usually, if the temperature of the
warmer baths is not gradually reduced, in order to bring the
case more and more within the influence of the medicinal
effects, or in order to prepare the patient to commence the
use of the natural baths, the time for remaining in the baths
should be increased. It is seldom wise to begin the course
of either the warmer or the natural baths, by remaining in
the water for the same time which may properly be allowed
after several baths have been taken, and the system has
become somewhat accustomed to the stimulating effects of
the waters.

"W hen the warmer baths are not indicated — either as pre-
paratory, or as being exclusively adapted to the individual
case— and the use of the natural bath might be justifiably
begun at once, the use of the warmer baths may be depre-
cated as involving exactly as much loss of time, as these
baths are less powerful in their effects than the natural baths,
besides being in some instances less suited, or even occasion-
ally altogether unsuitable. This often applies to dyspeptic
conditions to cases of gout, rheumatism, &c., attended by
cutaneous irritation, with or without the scorbutic character

to relaxed states of the female constitution, without visceral
congestion or obstruction— and to such cases of spinal de-
rangement as are not marked by irritation, but by general
or local relaxation, and consequent diminution of power and

248

ETTLES FOE BATHING.

defective function. There are many cases of hysteria, chorea,
facial tic, &c., in which the warmer baths are either used
without advantage, or even disadvantageous^ ; and in which
the use of the natural bath is attended with the best effects.

But there is a much larger number of morbid conditions,
in which the use of the natural baths is unsafe or unjustifi-
able, and in which the use of the warmer baths is beneficial.
Such are cases of gout, rheumatism, or neuralgia, accompa-
nied by marked irritability of the general system, or by an
evident tendency to assume an inflammatory character. Such
are cases in which there is irritation or disturbance of the
heart’s action ; cases in which there is a congestive or irri-
tative condition of the mucous membranes ; cases of hepatic
congestion, irritation, sluggishness, or disturbance of func-
tion ; and, generally, cases of congestion or irritation of any
of the great internal organs ; such congestion or irritation
not being sufficient in degree, or in the importance of its
bearings or connections, to justify the withholding the baths
when otherwise strongly indicated for the relief of the special
conditions in which these baths are useful.

The effect of the warmer baths is modified satisfactorily in
some of the more severe morbid conditions, by varying the
degree to which the body is immersed. When the body is
only covered to the height of the arm -pits, it is called a three-
quarter bath ; when only to the waist, a half bath ; and when
to the hips, a quarter bath. In this way, any degree of
pressure from the water on the trunk of the body may be
avoided ; and, which is sometimes of importance, the gaseous
emanations from the water are kept at so much greater a
distance from the mouth and nostrils. By this modified use
of the baths, the range of cases for which they are otherwise

KUXES FOE BATHING.

249

indicated, and to which they are thus rendered applicable
without risk or disadvantage is much increased. When the
variety of visceral conditions with which gout, rheumatism,
&c., may be complicated, is considered, the value of such a
means of modification may be inferred to be important. The
longer or shorter interval of one or more days between the
baths ; the longer or shorter time of the immersion, from
one minute to twenty minutes, or longer; the use of the
warmer baths, or of the baths at the natural temperature ;
and the degree of heat of the warmer baths, from 95 degrees,
or higher, to 88 degrees ; and the use of the quarter bath,
or half bath, or three-quarter bath, or whole bath, according
to circumstances ; supply an extensive power of adaptation
to different cases.

The baths should not be made use of after dinner ; and not
later than three or four hours after breakfast, if the system
is very excitable, or there is any reason to infer a probability
that the baths may disagree. The most convenient times
for bathing, when not thus contra-indicated at those times,
are before breakfast, and an hour before dinner. It is neces-
sary, in almost all cases, to return to the lodging as soon as
possible after leaving the bath, and to remain within doors
during two or more hours afterwards, according to the season
and the weather. In dry and warm weather, one hour will
generally be sufficient for this purpose ; but in cold and damp
weather, it may be advisable to remain in the house three or
four hours, or even during the whole remainder of the day.
Remaining thus quiet during so long a time after bathing,
not only diminishes the risk of taking cold afterwards — for
the degree of excitement produced by the baths renders this
unlikely, and of rare occurrence— but it lessens the chance

250 BULES FOR DRINKING THE WATERS.

of undue excitement of the system after the bath, and is
therefore to be generally and strongly advised in proportion
to the relative excitability. On the other hand, in excep-
tional cases, the primary effect of the bath is depressing, and
followed or accompanied by more or less chilliness. This,
if not sufficient to forbid the use of the bath, would justify
increased caution in its use, and probably indicate that exer-
cise should be taken immediately after. The tendency to
go to sleep after using the bath, which is often great, should
be resisted in all cases. Sleeping, until some hours after
using the baths, almost always deranges, and excites, and
adds to the risk of congestion, and should be watchfully
avoided.

Drinking these waters produces much the same effect on
the system as is produced by the baths ; they are, however,
more immediately stimulating, and less eventually alterative
in their effects. They act occasionally as an aperient ; but
this is uncertain and unsatisfactory, and rather indicates
irritation than relief, suggesting their discontinuance until
some corrective medicine has been made use of, such as may
relieve the congestive or morbid condition of the abdominal
organs and secretions, upon which this effect from the inter-
nal use of the waters almost always depends. They ought
to act upon the kidneys ; and their value as a diuretic, and
corrective of some morbid conditions of the urine is very
great. They ought not to occasion headache, or thirst, or
loss of appetite, or broken or disturbed sleep, or feverishness ;
but they ought, on the contrary, to promote appetite and
digestion. Their use is often of great value in such cases as
the baths would be prescribed for, but from circumstances
contra-indicating their use. The internal use of the waters is

BULES FOE DRINKING- THE WATERS. 251

eminently auxiliary to the effect of the baths ; and they should
always be taken in connection with baths when not contra-
indicated. The degree of excitement immediately occasioned,
however, makes it needful to forbid their use in many cases
in which the baths may be used without any disadvantage.
This remark applies to a large number of cases of gout.
The waters should not be drunk either immediately before,
or immediately after the use of the bath. It is desirable
that the possibility of the twofold excitement, caused by
using the waters in both ways, without some interval of time,
should be avoided. If the bath is not used before breakfast,
the first glass of the waters, and in some cases two glasses of
the waters, may be taken before breakfast ; and the second
or third glass may be taken, when not interfering with the
time of the bath, three hours after breakfast. Or the second,
or third, or fourth glass of the waters may be taken two or
three hours after the bath, or an hour before dinner, or three
hours after an early dinner. It is seldom necessary to take
more than two half pints of the water every day. There are
three differently sized glasses at the St. Ann’s Well ; the one
containing a quarter of a pint, the second one-third of a pint,
and the largest half a pint. It is generally advisable that
the smallest glass should be used at the beginning of the
course ; increasing the dose again and again, at the interval
of a day or two, if no contra-indication should occur. The
waters are so fully charged with gas, and until the system
has become accustomed to its use, the gas is so apt to occa-
sion some degree of giddiness or even headache, that it is
piudent at first to drink the water by sips, and even to hold
the glass in the hand a few seconds before beginning to drink
it ; but this seldom applies to more than the few first times

riOZ BUIES EOE DRINKIHG THE WATERS.

of drinking the waters; and afterwards it is desirable, in
order to secure the whole of the gas, or as much of it as may
be, to drink the water as rapidly and immediately as possible,
after receiving it from the attendant at the well. It is de-
sirable, if possible, to walk after drinking the water, in order
to expedite its absorption from the stomach. The amount
of walking found to be desirable on this account varies from
ten minutes to an hour, or more. The expediency of re-
maining within doors, during one or more hours after using
the baths, and of walking for some little time immediately
after drinking the waters, is an additional reason why the
use of the baths and the drinking of the waters should, if
possible, be at different times of the day. The water should
seldom be drunk later than four or five o’clock in the after-
noon. When more than two glasses of the waters during
the day are indicated, the additional quantities may be taken
from half an hour to an hour or more after the previous
glass, according to the readiness with which the waters are
found to be absorbed from the stomach. The internal use of
these waters is often extremely useful, in cases of bronchial
irritation and relaxation, urinary affections, and irritation of
the bladder, in which the use of the baths may or may not
be advisable.

CHAPTER VIII.

ANALYSIS, CHAEACTEH, AND USES OF THE CHALYBEATE

WATEE.

ETWEEN the limestone and gritstone formations at
Buxton, there is a narrow bed of shale, containing
a considerable proportion of iron ; and from this
arises a very useful chalybeate spring. This water has been
long and extensively used and valued. It is an excellent
chalybeate ; fortunately, as nearly as may be, free from alum.
It is therefore as little astringent in its effects as possible,
and acts as a mild and efficacious tonic, producing the usual
effects of iron upon the constitution, and in the perfectly
satisfactory way that only chalybeate waters attain : being
more certain in the effect, more secui-e of absorption, and
less apt to heat the system, or engorge the membranes or
viscera, than any artificial way of exhibiting iron medicinally.
This water has a distinct chalybeate taste, is colourless and
inodorous, and is of the ordinary temperature of the atmos-
phere. It was analysed by Dr. Lyon Playfair, in the year
1852, with the following results. The imperial gallon was
found to contain : —

Grains.

Pro-carbonate of iron 1-044

Silica ; i-i60

Alumina trace

Sulphate of lime 2 '483

Sulphate of magnesia 0-431

Carbonate of magnesia 0"303

Sulphate of potash 0-147

Chloride of sodium l-054

Chloride of potasium 0-460

7-082

a 54

THE CHALYBEATE WATER.

The value of such an excellent and simple chalybeate water
is necessarily very great, in a place which is resorted to by
such large numbers of invalids, for the use of the baths of
the tepid waters, or for the benefit of the great and useful
change of air, which the mountain elevation, and the lime-
stone and gritstone soils of the Buxton district, afford to
important classes of invalided conditions. There are great
numbers of invalids who use the Buxton baths advanta-
geously, in whose cases the internal use of the tepid waters
is not advantageous, and in whom the internal use of the
chalybeate water proves to be eminently serviceable. There
are many cases in which the use of the tepid waters is not
indicated, either as baths or internally, that take the chaly-
beate water with advantage ; and there are some cases, of
not unfrequent occurrence, in which the chalybeate and tepid
waters are mixed together, and so taken with much benefit.
It is curious, that when so mixed, they are often found to
have a laxative effect ; whereas the tendency of the chalybeate
water alone, and in some degree the tendency of the tepid
water, is to produce a constipated rather than a laxative effect.

The chalybeate water should not be taken before breakfast.
When so taken, it is liable to induce headache, and feverish-
ness, and gastric disturbance, in cases where it suits well
when taken at other times. The best times for drinking the
chalybeate water are as soon as may be after breakfast and
after dinner, when two or more glasses, of larger or smaller
size, may be taken at intervals of one or two hours. The
quantity taken at a time may be from a quarter of a pint to
half a pint. It should not occasion headache or feverishness ;
it should promote appetite and digestion, and not interfere
■disadvantageously with either. If it should occasion thirst,

THE CHALYBEATE WATEK.

255.

or uneasiness, or sense of distension of stomach, it should
probably be discontinued. It is advisable, if possible, to.
walk after drinking the water.

The chalybeate water is of much value as a collyrium, in
many cases of weakness and chronic irritation of the eyes.
It is of more use as an eye-water than might have been ex-
pected from a reference to its composition. It should be
applied by means of the usual eye-glass adapted to this pur-
pose, and it should be used freely.

The chalybeate water is extremely valuable as an applica-
tion, auxiliary to the baths and douches of the tepid waters,
for the relief of indolent swellings of the joints, &c., so often
left after the subsidence of rheumatic conditions. When
poured over the joints affected, in directed and regulated
quantities, once, or twice, or three times a day, it has ap-
peared to stimulate the absorbents to a much greater degree
than has been found to attend the similar application of
common water at the same temperature. This success has
led to its use by means of sponging and friction, in similar
cases, and with good effect ; and this, to the use of the affu-
sion of this water down the spine, and to sponging and fric-
tion of the back with it, in some forms of spinal weakness
and irritation, with good effect. In some paralytic conditions,
likewise, whether dependent on cerebral or spinal affection,
the use of the affusion of this water, or of sponging and
friction with it, over the head, or down the back, according
to the nature of the case, has often been attended with good
effect.

CHAPTER IX.

THE SUPPLY OP GRITSTONE WATER FOR DOMESTIC AND
ORDINARY PURPOSES.

HERE are not many questions winch are of greater
importance in regard to the health of people in
different localities, or which have met with less full
and practical consideration than the extent and the character
of the water supplied for domestic and ordinary purposes.
Use has been made of the advantageous position of Buxton,
in regard to this important particular. There is an abundant
supply of remarkably pure water. The water of calcareous
districts generally is more or less objectionable for domestic
uses, inasmuch as, according to its degree of hardness, the
solvent power of the water is lessened; and all cleansing
and washing purposes so far interfered with, and the infusion
of tea, the boiling of vegetables, &c., so much less readily
completed. And, moreover, even persons who reside
habitually in calcareous districts are occasionally found to
suffer from the calcareous matters contained in the water,
-and more especially from their astringent effect ; and
strangers, not accustomed to the use of such waters, suffer
much more frequently, and to a greater degree. It is one
of the valuable circumstances referable to the gritstone
formation which adjoins Buxton, that the water supply for
domestic purposes is derived from it. The water is brought
from three sources : two, of higher level, locally known as

THE GRITSTONE WATER.

257

the colcl springs, arising near to Comb’s Moss, on the right
of the Manchester road, about a mile from Buxton ; the
third, from a stream in the lower grounds, nearly a mile to
the west of this place. The waters from these places were
examined by Dr. Lyon Playfair, with the following results : —

“ Buxton , 3 Oth August, 1852.

•‘Dear Dr. Robertson,

“I have examined the water with which
Buxton is now supplied (for domestic and ordinary purposes),
and find it to be pure and soft, such as is indeed to be ex-
pected from a water flowing from the millstone grit. Its
hardness is of two degrees ; that is te say, it is of the same
hardness as would be given to one gallon of distilled water,
by dissolving in it two grains of chalk (carbonate of lime).

“The water from the brook, which is intended to be used
for the further supply of Buxton, is 4'35Q (41 degrees) of
hardness. This is also a soft water, though twice as hard
as the previous sample.

“Perhaps you may judge better of the relative qualities
of these waters, by contrasting them with the water of the
river Thames, which is about 13 degrees of hardness.

“ I am, very sincerely yours,

“LYON PLAYFAIR.”

A curious circumstance connected with the use of this
water by strangers is, that it is occasionally found to be too
pure. The taste of the water is considered to be vapid by
some, who have been accustomed to use waters impregnated
strongly with earthy or saline matters ; and the change to
the use of this water, from that of less pure water has been
known to produce some degree of discomfort in very delicate
and highly sensitive systems. In such cases, the water of

258

THE GRITSTONE WATER.

the cold calcareous springs has been desirably substituted for
the gritstone water ; and Buxton is variously and sufficiently
supplied with water of this kind, from pumps and otherwise.
The brook which runs across the field from Wye Head,
forming the succession of ornamental ponds, is chiefly of this
kind of water. There are two pumps connected together by
an arch, opposite the west end of the Crescent. One of these
pumps is supplied with the tepid water, the other with the
cold calcareous water.

Occasionally, after heavy rain, the gritstone water becomes
more or less discoloured, from mixture with surface water
that has passed over the summits of Comb’s Edge and
Comb’s Moss. This might be rectified by deposition tanks
of sufficient depth, or by filtering beds. The brightness of
the water is readily restored by filtration.

CHAPTER X.

HISTOBY, PEOGEESS, POSITION, AND USEFULNESS OF THE
DEVONSHIBE HOSPITAL AND BUXTON BATH CHAEITY.

HE Buxton Bath Charity ancl Devonshire Hospital
is under the former of these names an institution
of considerable antiquity. It arose by degrees,
from very small beginnings, to its present position of exten-
sive usefulness. It is recorded by Dr. Jones, in his work
so often cited, that Buxton was much resorted to by poor
afflicted persons, in the middle of the sixteenth century; and
indeed the petition which has been previously mentioned,
from the inhabitants of the adjoining village of Fairfield,
which was addressed to Queen Elizabeth, in the year 1^)5,
for a grant from the Royal bounty for the maintenance of a
chaplain, on the ground that they were too much impover-
ished to do this for themselves, by reason of the urg'ent and
continual claims for relief on the part of the many poor
sufferers, resorting to the Buxton baths, confirms the opinion
that the numbers of poor persons who then made use
of the waters must have been very considerable. It may be
fairly gathered from the various ancient writers on these
waters, that these poor persons had been so far aided, from
time immemorial, as to have had the use of the baths allowed
to them gratuitously. Dr. Jones indeed speaks of “the
treasury of the bath” as being partly devoted “to the use

of the poor that only for help do come hither;” but whether
s

260

BATH CHARITY AND HOSPITAL.

this is said in reference to a fund that had been already in
existence, or only by way of suggestion for the formation of
such a fund, does not clearly appear. Dr. Jones adds, how-
ever, an appeal that deserves to be quoted in all works that
may he written concerning the waters of Buxton : — “If any
think this magisterial imposing on people’s pockets, let them
consider their abilities, and the sick poor’s necessities, and
think whether they do not in idle pastimes throw away in
vain twice as much yearly; it may entail the blessing of
them that are ready to perish upon you, and will afford a
pleasant after reflection. God has given you physic for
nothing ; let the poor and afflicted (it may be members of
Christ) have a little of your money ; it may be the better for
your own health. Heaven might have put them in your
room, and you in theirs ; then a supply would have been
acceptable to you.”

Jt would seem, then, that the invalided poor, resorting to
Buxton for the use of its baths and waters, had thus early
met with aid as to their gratuitous use, and also with a kindly
solicitude and attention from medical men in attendance at
the baths ; for it would appear to have been the custom, in
earlier times, as it is said to be even now in some of the con-
tinental watering-places, that the medical attendants were
wont to afford their instructions in the bath apartments, and
personally superintend the fulfilment of their directions. So
much is left in obscurity, as to periods of time less remote
from our own than that now referred to, that it is little
wonder the early history of Buxton should have left no more
traces than these of the origin of the Buxton Bath Charity ;
and it cannot but be regretted, that the ancient records,
which appear to have been kept at these baths by the medical

BATH CHARITY AND HOSPITAL.

261

attendant when he was present, and by the bath-keeper in
the absence of the physician, of the “name, place of abode,
coming1 thither and departure, condition, calling1, disease, and
symptoms, and the benefit received,” should have been des-
troyed. A more curious and interesting record than such
an ancient register would now be, cannot well be imagined.
It is not, however, known at what distant period of time
baths were first provided at Buxton for the gratuitous use of
the poor ; nor is it even known when baths were first pro-
vided for the separate and exclusive use of the poor bathers.

I am in possession of a printed document, which bears the
date of 1785, in which it is stated that a pecuniary fund for
the assistance of poor bathers had originated in the year
1779; and this paper is evidently a copy of an annual report
of this charity, which has probably been issued regularly from
that time to the present ; although I have not been able to
meet with any copies of these reports between the years 1785
and 1818. It is not known when “the poor treasury,” if
such really had existed, ceased to be supplied with funds ; but
enough has been said to show that the Buxton Bath Charity
may claim to be one of the most ancient charitable institu-
tions in the kingdom. The fund which has, at all events
since the year 1779, been regularly provided by charitable
persons, for the assistance of poor bathers, must have been
at first of a very moderate amount, as the number who were
to receive pecuniary relief from it was limited to “ sixteen
objects at one time,” and it was only given during the six
summer months. It was stated in my work on “Buxton
and its Waters,” published in the year 1838, that of 14,906
patients admitted to the benefits of the institution in the
eighteen years previously, 12,608 were dismissed as cured or

202

BATH CHARITY AND HOSPITAL.

much relieved; the remainder having been either little
relieved or no better at the time of dismissal. From that
time to the beginning of September, 1858, 23,319 patients
were on the books of the institution ; and of these it may be
gathered from the reports that 16,575 were cured or much
relieved, 5,859 were only relieved in some degree, and 885
only were no better when dismissed.

During the last thirteen years, 1859 to 1871, the patients
have been most comfortably lodged and provided for in the
Devonshire- Hospital. This building presents a remarkable
instance of the successful conversion of a range of magnifi-
cent stables to the purposes of hospital accommodation and
requirement ; offering spacious, well warmed, and thoroughly
ventilated dining hall, day rooms, and dormitories, ample
kitchen, &c., &c.— an excellent master’s house, consult-
ing rooms, dispensary and dispenser’s rooms, lodge, &c. —
accommodation for the servants ot the establishment, and
145 beds for patients— in addition to a ward for cases of
accidental injury. The central position of the buikiing on a
commanding eminence, close to the church, the Crescent,
the baths, and the wells— with a southern and western expo-
sure, presenting views from all the windows of the park and
walks, surrounded by its own grounds, and with a costly
colonnade and parterre in its centre — furnishes an affecting
evidence, as is recorded on a stone over the door of the
hospital, written, not long before his death, by the late Sir
Francis Darwin, formerly one of the physicians, of “ the last
munificent charity of William Spencer, 6th Duke of Devon-
shire, K.G., who allowed these buildings to be converted to
the use of the sick poor, January, a.d. 1858.”

In the 13 years, the hospital has had 14,791 patients under

BATH CHAEITY AND HOSPITAL.

203

treatment ; all the beds were occupied, and the admission of
many applicants had to be refused or deferred, during many
weeks of those years ; the cases of 13,007 were treated bene-
ficially, only 1,784 of the patients having derived no benefit
during their stay; and 1,779 of the patients, or about one-
eighth of the whole number, were not suffering from any
of the forms of rheumatism, but were such as are ordinarily
met with in hospitals, and required medical treatment ac-
cordingly. On the average of the nine years, the patients
remained under treatment less than 25 days ; and 13,012 cases
of rheumatism, embracing every conceivable variety of this
distressing malady, and for the most part cases of severe and
obstinate character, were in so short a time, and with little
aid from other means than the Buxton waters, treated with
such satisfactory results.

The institution deserves to be still more amply supported.
Means should be provided for its extension to the whole of
the building, of which it now occupies so considerable a por-
tion ; the number of its beds might thus be easily doubled ;
and the suffering and disabled poor might be relieved in
a corresponding degree.

The patients are supplied with a liberal dietary, medical
advice, and medicines, and have the use of the baths and
waters. Annual subscribers are entitled to recommend a
patient for three weeks to the full benefit of the institution
for every guinea subscribed. Casual subscribers have the
same privilege on the payment of thirty shillings. Life-
subscribers have the same annual privilege for every twenty
guineas. Four out-patients may be recommended instead of
one in-patient. Out-patients receive medical advice, medi-
cines, and the use of the baths and waters. In addition to

264=

BATH CHARITY AND HOSPITAL.

the subscriber’s recommendation, the fitness of every patient*
as an object of charity, is expected to be satisfactorily certified
by the officiating minister, or by the churchwardens or other
parochial officers. Letters respecting the admission of patients
are to be sent to the secretary, Mr. Joseph Taylor,
Devonshire Hospital, Buxton, Derbyshire. It is advisable
to obtain notice of the day on which there will he a vacancy
in the hospital, before a patient is sent from home. Dona-
tions, subscriptions, &c., should be made payable to the
treasurer, Mr. Samuel Turner, Buxton, Derbyshire. It
need only be added, in support of the claims of the institu-
tion to a universal sympathy, in addition to the statistical
statement of the curative results, that every patient costs the
institution £1 11s. d., notwithstanding the gratuitous ser-

vices of the medical officers, and the most pains-taking and
constant supervision.

Extending over so many years as from 1820 to 18/1, and
embracing such large numbers of cases, the records are ample
enough to satisfy the most sceptical inquirer. And as to the
nature of the ailments, in regard to which so great a degree
of success has been obtained by the skilled use of the Buxton
waters, it should be stated that a very large proportion of the
cases have been those of rheumatism— and of rheumatism*
for the relief of which hospital and dispensary appliances, and
the efforts of the private practitioner, have been tried in vain *
and, moreover, that the results have been obtained, for the
most part, by the use of the Buxton baths and waters for
average periods of only from three to four weeks. The chronic
and obstinate character of the generality of these cases is
sufficiently explained by the difficulty with which poor people
are enabled to leave their homes ; and hy the fact, that, not-

BATH CHARITY AND HOSPITAL.

265

withstanding the assistance afforded by the institution, and
the provision of medical advice, medicines and baths, few
poor persons are enabled to defray the cost of a journey to
Buxton and back, at a less outlay from their own resoui’ces,
than from ten shillings to three pounds sterling. This cir-
cumstance, moreover, causes attempts to impose upon public
liberality on the part of healthy persons, or of persons suffer-
ing from less severe or less obstinate forms of ailment, to be
too unprofitable, to be of frequent occurrence. That many
much afflicted poor persons should, notwithstanding this
expenditure, from scanty funds, contrive to visit Buxton
every year, or almost every year, as the only means which
they find to be effectual in warding off such a degree of
crippling of the limbs, as would prevent them from pursuing
the occupation by which they earn their livelihood, may be
regarded as supplying evidence of the medicinal value of the
baths and waters.

APPENDIX.

CATALOGUE OF PLANTS WHICH GROW IN THE NEIGHBOUR- .

HOOD OF BUXTON, WITH A BOTANICAL COMMENTARY.

BY THE LATE MISS HAWKINS.

HE following' list was prepared previously to the year
1854 ; and many of the plants have been disturbed
by the cuttings and embankments of the railway.
It is hoped, however, that most of them will be found to be
in or near their old localities : —

Proceeding along the road from Buxton to Bakewell, the
first plant worthy of particular notice is the Golden Saxifrage
(Chrysoplenium oppositifolium). It grows very near the river,
and flowers in May. Near the same place may be found the
Bed and Black Currant (Bibes rubrum and B. nigrum), and
also the Gooseberry (Ribes grossularia). But though it is
natural for these shrubs to grow in damp soil, near a river,
it is possible that the spot where these are found may be the
remains of a former garden.

A little farther, on the opposite side of the river, is a
Willow, not very common — the Sweet Bay-leaved Willow
(Salix pentandra), producing its blossoms in June or July.
Still farther, on the other side of the river, and nearly oppo-
site to the Lover’s Leap, is a beautiful shrub, the Bird Cherry
(Prunus padus), putting out its elegant spray of white blos-
soms in May. The ground beneath is covered with bright
blue patches of the Great Water Scorpion-grass (Myosotis

BOTANICAL COMMENTARY.

267

palustris), flowering from June till August, and the White
Wood Anemone (Anemone nemorosa), which flowers in April
and May.

At the Lover’s Leap, following the bed of the little stream
which runs between high rocks, there will be found, in May
and June, a great quantity of Broad-leaved Garlick (Allium
ursinum) ; and at the upper end of the rocky bed of the
rivulet, it is overhung by a beautiful deep pink Rose (Rosa
villosa). This rose grows also in many places on the opposite
bank of the river Wye, together with the Common Dog
Rose (Rosa canina), and the White Trailing Dog Rose (Rosa
arvensis).

In all the plantations, on each side of the road, may be
found the wild Raspberry (Rubus idasus).

Passing the Lover’s Leap, on the rocks on the right hand,
is a plant not found in any other place in England, except
near Malham Cove, in Yorkshire, the Blue Jacob’s Ladder, or
Greek Valerian (Polemonium CEeruleum), flowering in June.
Other plants on the side of the road are common everywhere.
Smooth Speedwell (Veronica serpyllifolia), Germander Speed-
well (Veronica chamaedrys), Procumbent Speedwell (Veronica
agrestis), Wall Speedwell (Veronica arvensis), Ivv-leaved
Speedwell (Veronica hederifolia), all flowering from April till
June, or even later ; the Round-leaved Bell-flower (Campa-
nula rotundifolia), flowering in July and August ; the Field
Scabious (Scabiosa arvensis), flowering in July ; Small Sca-
bious (Scabiosa columbaria), which is much more rare than
the former, and flowers from June till August. Cuckoo-
flower (Cardamine pratensis), flowers in April and May. Herb
Robert, or Stinking Cranesbill (Geranium Robertianum),
Shining Cranesbill (Geranium lucidum), Dovesfoot Cranes-

268

BOTANICAL COMMENTAEY.

bill (Geranium molle), all flower from May to August.
Near the river the Butterbur (Tussilago petasites) grows in
profusion, producing larger leaves than any indigenous plant
in Great Britain.

Beyond the mill, on the left hand of the road, the bridge
leads to a bushy bank of small extent, skirting a footpath,
leading to Fairfield ; on which bank, besides the Prunus-
spinosa (Blackthorn, or Sloe), flowering in .April or May, the
Raspberry (Rubus idseus), Common Blackberry (Rubusfruti-
cosus), also flowering in April or May ; the Dog’s Violet
(Viola canina), and Common Cowslip (Primula veris), and
some rarer plants are to be found. Hei’e are the Green
Hellebore (Helleborus viridis), flowering in April or May ;
Clustered Bell-flower (Campanula glomerata), Bloody Cranes-
bill (Geranium sanguineum), flowering from July to Sep-
tember; Hairy Violet (Viola hirta), flowering in April;
Common Dwarf Cistus (Cistus helianthamum), and Hairy St.
John’s Wort (Hypericum hirsutum), both flowering in July
and August. Bushes of a very beautiful deep pink or red
Rose (Rosa tomentosa), also grow on this bank. Close to
the river, a little farther on the opposite side, is the Common
Dame’s Violet (Hesperis matronalis), flowering in May and
June.

Between the bridge and the turnpike, are found on the
rocks, on the right hand— as also in many of the pastures—
the Grass of Parnassus (Parnassia palustris), flowering in
September and October; Ivy-leaved Wall Lettuce (Prenan-
thes muralis), flowering in July ; Common Wall Cress (Arabis
Thaliana), flowering in April; Hairy Wall Cress (Arabis
hirsuta), flowering in May. The Nottingham Catchfly (feilene
nutans) used to grow on this bank ; but in taking materials

BOTANICAL COMMENTARY.

269

for repairing the road, it seems to have been destroyed : it
grows in the end of Miller’s Dale, and in Dove Dale.

Beyond the turnpike, in the wet ground on the left hand,
are the Common Marsh Marigold (Calthapalustris), flowering
in March and April : Common Water Cress (Nasturtium offi-
cinale), flowering in June and July ; and by the road side,
chiefly on the inner side of the wall, is the Blue Meadow
Cranesbill (Geranium pratense), flowering in June and July.
Still farther, past the bend of the road, are Small Marsh
Valerian (Valeriana dioica), flowering in June; Wild Angelica
(Angelica sylvestris), flowering in July ; Great Hairy Willow-
herb (Epilobium hirsutum), flowering in July. This last plant
grows on the bank dividing the fishpond from a small branch
of the river, mixed with large patches of Blue Scorpion-grass,
the Common Cow Parsnip (Heracleum sphondylium), flower-
ing in July. On the right hand of the road, before reaching
this bend of the road, are the Small-flowered Hoary Willow-
herb (Epilobium parviflorum), flowering in July; Brooklime
(Veronica Beccabunga), Mouse-ear Chickweed (Cerastium
vulgatum), and Silverweed, or Wild Tansy (Potentilla
anserina), all flowering from May to July.

On approaching the third milestone from Buxton, the
limestone is interrupted by loadstone, and as far as this
extends, a beautiful little plant grows in the crevices of the
stones, the Common Butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris), flower-
ing in May and June. In many parts of the river grows the
White Floating Crowfoot (Ranunculus aquatilis), showing
its white flowers in May. On the rocks on the right hand,
going up the hill called Topley Pike, grows a sweet-scented
plant, the Common Kidney Vetch, or Ladies’ Finger ( An thyl-
lis vulneraria), flowering in June and July ; and higher up,

270

BOTANICAL COMMENTARY.

on those rocks, the Stone Bramble (Rubus saxatile), flowering
in June. In the valley below the road, on rocks close to the
river, there are a few plants of the White Beam Tree (Pyrus
Aria), flowering in May. The Giant Bellflower (Campanula
latifolia) grows near the road, going on to Ashford.

The plants to be found near Buxton, farther from the
public road, are the Common Privet (Ligustrum vulgare),
growing on rocks in a dale near the bottom of Topley Pike,
flowering in May and June ; where may also be found the
Common Buckthorn (Rkamnus catharticus), flowering in May
and June also. And in a dale leading to Chelmorton, the
Burnet-leaved Rose (Rosa spinosissima), grows amongst the
loose stones on the side of a hill.

Amongst the rocks and shrubs in other places are two
plants which used to be considered doubtful natives of Britain
— the Cinnamon Rose ( Rosa cinnamomea) and the Mountain
Globeflower (Trollius Europaeus) — both flowering in May and
June. Other more common plants are to be found in almost
every meadow and road side. Such are the Common Corn
Salad, or Lamb’s Lettuce (Fedia olitoria), flowering from
April to June-; Devil’s-bit Scabious (Scabiosa succisa),
flowering from August to October; Cross Wort Bedstraw
(Galium cruciatum), flowering in May ; Smooth Head Bed-
straw (Galium saxatile), flowering from June to August ;
Yellow Bedstraw (Galium verum), flowering in July and
August; Cleavers, or Goosegrass (Galium Aparine), flower-
ing all the summer; Greater Plantain (Plantago major).
Hoary Plantain (Plantago media), having a very pleasant
scent, and flowering from Jnne to August; Great Burnet
(Sanguisorba officinalis), flowering in June and July ; Com-
mon Wall Pellitory (Parietaria officinalis), flowering from

BOTANICAL COMMENTARY.

271

June till September: Common Ladies’ Mantle (Alchemilla
vulgaris), flowering from June to August ; Field Ladies’
Mantle, or Parsley Piert (Alchemilla arvensis), flowering
from May to October ; Procumbent Pearlwort (Sagina pro-
cumbens), flowering from May till October ; Annual Small-
flowered Pearlwort (Sagina apetala), flowering in May or
June.

\

Common Primrose (Primula vulgaris), flowering in April ;
Autumnal Gentian (Gentiana amarella), flowering in August ;
Perennial Blue Flax (Linum perenne), flowering in June and
July; Mill Mountain (Linum catharticum), flowering from
June to August; Smooth Cow Parsley (Chierophyllum syl-
vestre), flowering in May ; Sweet Cicely (Myrrhis odorata),
flowering in May, not very common; Common Earth, or
Pignut (Buniuni flexuosum), flowering in May or June;
Common Goutweed (iEgopodium podagraria), flowering in
June; Sheep’s Sorrel (Rurnex acetosella), flowering in June-
and July; Broad Smooth-leaved Willow-herb (Epilobium
montauum), flowering in July ; Bilberry, or Black Whortle-
berry (Vaccinium myrtillus), flowering in May ; Common
Ling (Calluna vulgaris), flowering in June and July; Cross-
leaved Heath (Erica tetralix), flowering in July and August;
Fine-leaved Heath (Erica cinerea), flowering from July to
October; White Meadow Saxifrage (Saxifraga granulata),
flowering in June; Rue-leaved Saxifrage (Saxifraga tridacty-
lites), flowering in May; Mossy Saxifrage, or Ladies’ Cushion
(Saxifraga hvpnoids), flowering in June; Common Chick-
weed, or Stitchwort (Stellaria media), flowering all the year ;
Vernal Sandwort (Arenaria verna), flowering from May to
August; Orpine, or Livelong (Sedum telephium), flowering
in August; Biting Stonecrop, or Wall Pepper (Sedum acre),

BOTANICAL COMMENTAEY.

flowering1 in June; Common Wood Sorrel (Oxalis acetosella),
flowering in April and May ; Corn Cockle (Agrostemma
githago), flowering in June and July; Meadow Lychnis, or
Ragged Robin (Lychnis flos cuculi), flowering in June; Red
‘ Campion (Lychnis dioica), flowering in May and June ; Com-
mon Houseleek (Sempervivum tectorum), flowering in July;
Meadow Sweet (Spiraea ulmaria), flowering in June and July;
Spring Cinquefoil (Potentilla verna), flowering in April and
May ; Strawberry -leaved Cinquefoil (Potentilla fragarias-
trum), flowering in April • Water Avens (Geum rivale),
flowering in June and July; Dwarf Cistus (Cistus helianthe-
mum), flowering in July and August ; Lesser Celandine
(Ranunculus ficaria), flowering in April ; Bulbous Crowfoot
(Ranunculus bulbosus), flowering in May; Creeping Crowfoot
(Ranunculus repens), flowering from June to August; Com-
mon Bugle (Ajuga reptans), flowering in May ; Common
Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea), flowering in April and
May; Red Dead Nettle, or Archangel (Lamium purpureum),
flowering in May ; Common Marjoram (Origanum vulgare),
flowering in July and August ; Wild Thyme (Thymus ser-
pyllum), flowering in July and August; Common Self-heal
(Prunella vulgaris), flowering in July and August; Common
Yellow Rattle (Rhinanthus cristagalli), flowering in June;
Common Eyebright (Euphrasia officinalis), flowering from
June to September; Knotty-rooted Figwort (Scrophularia
nodosa), flowering in July; Purple Foxglove (Digitalis pur-
purea), flowering in June and July ; Common Whitlow-grass
(Draba verna), flowering in March and April; Speedwell-
leaved Whitlow-grass (Draba muralis), flowering in April and
May: this is considered rather a rare plant; Rock Hutchinsia
(Hutchinsia petrsea), flowering in April ; Common Shepherd’s

BOTANICAL COMMENTARY.

273

Purse (Thlaspi bursa pastoris), flowering all the summer;
Common Milkwort (Polygala vulgaris), flowering in June and
July, in a variety of colours- — blue, white, and lilac ; Common
Purse, or Gorse (Ulex Europmus), flowering in May ; Common
Bitter Yetcb (Orobus tuberosus), flowering in May and J une ;
Tufted Vetch (Vicia cracca), flowering in July and August ;
Lesser Yellow Trefoil (Trifolium minus), flowering- in June
and July ; Common Bird’s-foot Trefoil (Lotus corniculatus),
flowering from June to September ; Greater Bird’s-foot Tre-
foil (Lotus major), flowering in July; Common Perforated
St. John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum), and Imperforate
St. John’s Wort (Hypericum dubium), both floweringin July
and August ; Hairy St. John’s Wort (Hypericum kirsutum),
flowering in June and July; Yellow Goat’s Beard (Trago-
pogon pratensis), flowering in June; Corn Sow Thistle (Son-
chus arvensis), flowering in August; Bough Hawkbit
(Apargia hispida), flowering in July; Common Mouse-ear
Hawk Weed (Hieracium pilosella), flowering in June; Musk
Thistle (Carduus nutans), flowering in July and August;
Spear Plume Thistle (Cnicus lanceolatus), flowering from
June to September; Marsh Plume Thistle (Cnicus palustris),
flowering in July and August; Meadow Plume Thistle (Cnicus
pratensis), flowering in June; Woolly-headed Plume Thistle
(Cnicus eriophorus), flowering in August ; Coltsfoot (Tussi-
lago farfara), flowering in March and April; Common Bag
Wort (Senecio Jacobtea), flowering in July and August ; Moon
Daisy (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum), flowering in July;
Common Yarrow, or Milfoil (Achillea millefolium), flowering
in July; Black Knapweed (Centaurea nigra), flowering from
June to August ; Greater Knapweed (Centaurea scabiosa),
flowering in July and August ; Common Salad Burnet (Pote-

274

BOTANICAL COMMENTARY.

rium sanguisorba), flowering in July; Perennial Mercury
(Mercurialis perennis), flowering in April and May ; Rough
Hawksbeard (Crepis biennis), flowering in July ; Spotted
Cats-ear (Hypochmris maculata), flowering in July.

On Axe Edge are found, besides the three common heaths
(Calluna vulgaris, Erica tetralix, and Erica cinerea), the
Black Crowberry or Crakeberry (Empetrum nigrum), a plant
in appearance very like a heath, but of a very different class,
as it bears the blossoms and the fruit on separate plants;
the former appearing in May*, and the latter, which is a
black berry, like a small black current, ripe about August.
It is said, that in former times a sort of wine was made from
this fruit in Iceland and Norway. The Bilberry (Yaccinium
myrtillus) grows there in abundance, and also the Cowberry,
or Whortleberry (Yaccinium vitis idcea), flowering in June,
bearing a red berry. Cranberry, or Marsh Whortleberry
(Yaccinium oxycoccus), flowering in June; the fruit of which
is, in an early state, pale coloured with red spots ; but when
fully ripe of a deep red. The Mountain Bramble, or Cloud-
berry (Rubus chammmorus), which in June bears one very
elegant white flower, on a slender stalk ; the fruit resembles
a small white raspberry. The Wild Rosemary, or Marsh
Andromeda (Andromeda polifolia), flowering in June.

The plants of the Orchis tribe, near Buxton, are the Early
Purple Orchis (Orchis mascula), flowering in April and May;
Spotted Palmate Orchis (Orchis masculata), flowering in
June and July; Aromatic Palmate Orchis (Orchis conopsea),
flowering in June; Prog Orchis (Orchis viridis), on the high
ground above the hospital at Buxton, and flowering in
June and July; Green Man Orchis (Aceras anthropophera),
flowering in June; Common Twayblade (Listera ovata),
flowering in June.

BOTANICAL COMMENTARY.

275

Plants of the Fern tribe, immediately near Buxton, are
the Common Polypody (Polypodium vulgare) ; Rigid Three-
branched Polypody (Poly podium calcareum) ; Male Shield
Fern (Aspidium filix mas), Broad Sharp-toothed Shield Fern
(Aspidium dilatatum) ; Female Shield Fern (Aspidium filix
foemina) ; Brittle Bladder Fern (Cyathea fragilis) ; Common
Maidenhair Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes) ; Green
Maidenhair Spleenwort (Asplenium viride), much more rare
than the Common Spleenwort; Wall Rue Spleenwort (Asple-
nium ruta muraria); Common Hart’s Tongue (Scolopendrium
vulgare) ; Northern Hard Fern (Blechnum horeale) ; Com-
mon Ovate Adder’s Tongue (Ophioglossum vulgatum).
Common Moon Wort (Botrychium lunaria) is said to grow
near Corbar Wood.

The Common Brake (Pteris aquilina) grows in abundance
near Ashford, and the grounds at Chatsworth.

T

CLASSIFIED LIST OF PLANTS.

LASSIFICATION of Plants, which grow in the
neighbourhood of Buxton ; and most of which
grow within the district immediately around the

town : —

Diandria.-

Ligustrum vulgare
Fraxinus excelsior
Yeronica serpyllifolia
beccabunga
anagallis
officinalis
cliamaidrys
agrestis
arvensis
hederifolia
Pinguicula vulgaris

-Monogynia.

Common Privet
Common Ash
Smooth Speedwell
Brooldime
Water Speedwell
Common Speedwell
Germander Speedwell
Procumbent Field Speedwell
Wall Speedwell
Ivy-leaved Speedwell
Common Butterwort

Triandria.-

Valeriana dioica .

Fedia olitoria
Scabiosa succisa .

,, arvensis .

,, columbaria
Galium cruciatum
,, saxatile .

,, pusillum
,, verum
„ aparine .

-Monogynia.

Marsh Valerian
Common Lamb’s Lettuce
Devil’s-bit Scabious
Field Scabious
Small Scabious
Cross Wort Bedstraw
Smooth Heath Bedstraw
Least Mountain Bedstraw
Yellow Bedstraw
Goosegrass

CLASSIFIED LIST OF PLANTS.

277

Plantago major .

•

Greater Plantain

„ media .

•

Hoary Plantain

Sanguisorba officinalis .

•

Great Burnet

Cornus sanguinea

•

Wild Cornet Tree

Parietaria officinalis

•

Wall Pellitory

Alcbemilla vulgaris

•

Common Ladies’ Mantle

,, arvensis

•

Field Ladies’ Mantle

Tetrandria.-

— Tetragynia.

Sagina procumbens

•

Procumbent Pearlwort

, j apetala • •

•

Small-flowered Pearl Wort

Petandria.-

— Monogynia.

Myosotis palustris

•

Water Scorpiongrass

„ sylvatica

.

Upright Wood Scorpiongrass

Cynoglossum officinale .

.

Common Hound’s Tongue

Symphytum officinale .

.

Common Comfrey

Primula veris

.

Common Cowslip

„ vulgaris .

.

Common Primrose

Polemonium casrulum .

•

Greek Yalerian

Campanula rotundifolia

.

Bound-leaved Bellflower

,, latifolia

•

Giant Bellflower

,, trachelium

•

Nettle-leaved Bellflower

„ glomerata .

.

Clustered Bellflower

Yiola hirta .

•

Hairy Yiolet

„ canina

•

Dog’s Violet

,, lutea .

.

Yellow Mountain Violet

Bhamnus catharticus .

.

Common Buckthorn

Bibes rubrum

•

Common Currant

,, alpinum

•

Tasteless Mountain Currant

,, nigrum

.

Black Currant

„ grossularia .

.

Common Gooseberry

Hedera helix

Q

Common Ivy

278

CLASSIFIED LIST OF PLANTS.

Pentandria. — Digynia.

Chenopoclium Bonus Henricus
Gentiana amarella
,, campestris
Chasrophyllum sylvestre
Myrrhis odorata .

Bunium flexuosum
JE gopodium podagraria
Angelica sylvestris
Heracleum sphondylium
Pimpinella magna

Pentandria,
Parnassia palustris
Linum perenne
,, catharticum

Mercury Goosefoot
Autumnal Gentian
Piekl Gentian
Wild Chervil
Sweet Cicely
Common Earthnut
Common Goutweed
Wild Angelica
Common Cow Parsnip
Greater Burnet Saxifrage

, — Tetragynia.

Common Grass of Parnassus
Perennial Blue Plax
Mill Mountain

Hexandna. — Monogynia.

Allium ursinum . . . Broad-leaved Garlick

,, vineale . . . Crow Garlick

Juncus lampocarpus . . Shining Jointed Kush

H exandria . — Trigynia.

Kumex sanguineus
„ acetosa
,, acetosella .

Octandria.

Epilobium hirsutum

,, angustifolium
,, parviflorum
,, montanum .

Yaccinium myrtillus .

,, vitis idasa .

„ oxycoccus

Bloody-veined Dock
Common Sorrel
Sheep’s Sorrel

-Monogynia.

Hairy Willowherb
Kose-bay Willowherb
Small Willowherb
Broad Smooth Willowherb
Bilberry

Red Whortleberry
Cranberry

CLASSIFIED LIST OF PLANTS.

279

Calluna vulgaris . . . Common Ling

Erica tetralix . . . Cross-leaved Heath

„ cinerea . . . Fine-leaved Heath

Octandria . — Tetragynia .

Paris quadrifolio . . . Common Herb Paris

Decandria. — Monogynia.

Andromeda polifolia . . Marsh Andromeda

Decandria. — Digynia.

Chrysoplenium alternifohum Alternate-leaved Golden Saxi -

frage

,, oppositifohum Opposite-leaved Golden Saxi-

frage

Saxifraga granulata . . Meadow Saxifrage

,, tridactylites . . Eue-leaved Saxifrage

,, hypnoides . . Mossy Saxifrage

Decandria

Silene nutans
Stellaria media
Arenaria vema

Decandria.-

Sedum telephium

„ acre ....
Oxahs acetosella .

Lychnis flos cuculi
,, dioica
Cerastium vulgatum
Spergula nodosa .

Dodeeandria.

Trigynia.

Nottingham Catchfly
Common Chickweed
Vernal Sandwort
-Pentagynia.

Orpine Livelong
Biting Stonecrop
Common Wood Sorrel
Meadow Lychnis
Bed or White Campion
Mouse-ear Chickweed
Knotted Spurrey
— Dodecagynia.

Sempervivum tectorum . Houseleek
Icosandria. — Monogynia.
Prunus padus . . . Bird Cherry

,, spinoSa . . . Sloe Blackthorn

I

280

CLASSIFIED LIST OE PLANTS.

Icosandria. —
Mespilus oxyacantha .

Pyrus aucuparia .

,, aria ....
Spiraea filipendula
„ ulmaria

Icosandria

Eosa cinnamomea
,, spinosissima
„ villosa
„ canina
„ arvensis
Eubus fruticosus
,, idseus
„ corylifolius
„ saxatilis
„ chamfcmorus
Potentilla anserina
„ verna .

,, fragariastrnm

Genm urbanum .
rivale

-Di-Pentagynia.

Hawthorn
Mountain Ash
White Beam Tree
Common Dropwort
Meadow Sweet

Polygynia.

Cinnamon Eose
Burnet Eose
Soft-leaved Eose
Common Dog Eose
White-trailing Eose
Blackberry
Easpberry

Hazel-leaved Bramble
Stone Bramble
Cloudberry
Silverweed
Spring Cinquefoil
Strawberry-leaved Cinquefoil
Common Avens
Water Avens

Polyandria

Cistus helianthemum .

Polyandria.

Aquilegia vulgaris

Polyandria
Anemone nemorosa
Eanunculus ficarius

n bulbosus .

,, repens

Trollius Europasus

— Monogynia.

Common Cistus

, — Pentagynia.

Columbine

Polygynia.

Wood Anemone
Crowfoot

Bulbous Crowfoot
Creeping Crowfoot
Mountain Globe Flower

CLASSIFIED LIST OF PLANTS.

281

Helleborus viridis
,, fcetidus

i

Caltlia palnstris .

Didynamia

Ajuga reptans
Glechoma hederacea
Lamium purpureum
Origanmn vulgare
Thymus serpyllum
,, acinos .

Prunella vulgaris

. Green Hellebore
. Stinking Hellebore
. Marsh Marigold

— Gymnospermia.

. Common Bugle
. Ground Ivy
. Red Dead Nettle
. Common Marjoram
. Common Thyme
. Basil Thyme
. Self-heal

Didynamia. — Angiospermia.
Rhidanthus cristagalli . . Yellow Rattle

Euphrasia officinalis . . Eyebright

Scrophularia nodosa . . Knotty Figwort

Digitalis purpurea . . Purple Foxglove

Draba verna
,, incana
,, muralis
Hutchinsia petrosa
Thlaspi bursa pastoris

Tetradynamia. — Siliculosa.

. Common Whitlowgrass
. Twisted-podded Whitlowgrass
. Speedwell-leaved Whitlowgrass
. Rock Hutchinsia

\

. Shepherd’s Purse

Tetradynamia. — Siliquosa.

Cardamine impatiens .
Cardamine pratensis .
Nasturtium officinale .
Hesperis matronalis
Arabis thaliana
„ hirsuta

. Ladies’ Smock
. Cuckoo Flower
. Watercress
. Dame’s Yiolet
. Wall Cress
. Hairy Wall Cress

Monodelphia. — Decandria.
Geranium pratense . . Blue Cranesbill

282

CLASSIFIED LIST OF PLANTS.

Geranium Robertianum

. Herb Robert

,, lucidum

. Shining Cranesbiil

,, rnolle .

. Dovesfoot Cranesbiil

,, sanguineum

. Bloody Cranesbiil

Diadelphia. — Oetandria.

Polygala vulgaris

. Common Milkwort

Diadelpbia. — Decandria.

Ulex Europseus .

. Common Furze

Anthyllis vulneraria

. Kidney Vetch

Orobus tuberosus

. Common Bitter Vetch

Yicia sylvatica

. Wood Vetch

Vicia cracca

. Tufted Vetch

Hippocrepis comosa

. Horseshoe Vetch

Trifolium minus .

. Lesser Yellow Trefoil

Lotus corniculatus

. Birdsfoot Trefoil

„ major

. Greater Birdsfoot Trefoil

Polydelpbia. — Polyandria.

Hypericum perforatum

. Perforated St. John’s Wort

„ dubium

. Imperforated St. John’s Wort

,, montanum

. Mountain St. John’s Wort

,, birsutum .

. Hairy St. John’s Wort

Syngenesia.-

— Polygamia asqualis.

Tragopogon pratense .

. Yellow Goatsbeard

Picris bieracioides

. Hawkweed Ox Tongue

Sonckus arvensis

. Corn Sow Thistle

Prenantbes muralis

. Ivy-leaved Wall Lettuce

Leontodon taraxacum .

. Dandelion

Apargia bispida .

. Rough Hawkbit

Hieracium pilosella

. Mouse-ear Hawkweed

„ murorum

. Broad-leaved Wall Hawkweed

„ umbellatum

. Narrow-leaved Hawkweed

Serratula tinctoria

. Common Saw Wort

CLASSIFIED LIST OF PLANTS.

283

Carduus nutans .

„ acantkoides
Cnicus lanceolatus
„ palustris .

„ eriopkorus
„ keteropkyllus .
Carlina vulgaris .
Eupatorium cannabimun

Musk Tkistle
Welted Tkistle
Spear Plume Tkistle
Marsk Plume Tkistle
Woolly-keady Plume Tkistle
Melanckoly Plume Tkistle
Carkne Tkistle
Hemp Agrimony

Syngenesia — Polygamia superflua.

Tussilago farfara .

,, petasites
Senecio vulgaris .

,, Jacobasa .

,, tenuifolius
Solidago virgaurea
Belks perennis

Ckrysantkemum leucantke-
mum .

Ackillea millifolium

Coltsfoot

Butterbur

Common Groundsel
Common Rag Wort
Hoary Rag Wort
Common Golden Rod
Common Daisy

Ox-eye Daisy

Milfoil

Syngenesia. — Polygamia frustranea.
Centaurea nigra . . . Black Knapweed

,, scabiosa . . Greater Knapweed

Gynandria. — Monandria.

Orckis bifolia
„ pyramidalis
,, mascula
1, viridis
„ maculata .

,, conopsea .

Aceras antkropopkera
Listera ovata

Butterfly Orckis
Pyramidal Orckis
Early Purple Orckis
Frog Orckis
Spotted Palmate Orckis
Aromatic Palmate Orckis
Green Man Orckis
Common Twayblade

284

CLASSIFIED LIST OF PLANO'S.

Momecia.-

Urtica dioica

Bryonia dioica

-Tetrandria.
Great Nettle

Momecia.

Arum maculatum
Poterium sanguisorba .
Corylus Avellana .

Monascia. — Pentandria.

. . Bed-berried Bryony

-Polyandria.

Cuckoo Pint
Salad Burnet
Common Hazel Nut

Difficia.-

Salix pentandra .

,, caprea ....

,, alba ....

-Diandria.

Bay-leaved Willow
Round-leaved Willow
Common White Willow

Empetrum nigrum

Dicecia. — Triandria.

. . Black Crowberry

Dkecia. — Enneandria.

Mercurialis perennis . . Perennial Mercury

Disecia. — Monadelpnia.

Taxus baccata . . . Common Yew

FERNS.

Crypotogamia. — Filices.

Polypodium vulgare
„ calcareum .

Aspidium Filix mas
,, aculeatum
„ lobatum
,, dilatatum
,, Filix fcemina
Cvstea fragilis
,, dentata

Common Polybody
Rigid Three-branched Polybody
Male Shield Fern
Prickly Shield Fern
Close-leaved Prickly Shield F ern
Sharp-toothed Shield Fern
Female Shield Fern
Brittle Bladder Fern
Toothed Bladder Fern

CLASSIFIED LIST OF PLANTS.

285

Asplenium Trichomanes
,, viride .

,, ruta muraria

,, Adiantum nigrum

Scolopendrium vulgare
Blechnum boreale
Pteris aquilina
Botrychium lunaria
Ophioglossum vulgatmn
Equisetum limosum

Spleenwort

Green Maiden-hair Spleenwort

Wall-tree Spleenwort

Black Maiden-hair Spleenwort

Common Hartstongue

Northern Hard Ferns

Common Brakes

Moonwort

Adder's Tongue

Smooth Naked Horsetail

SPORTS, AMUSEMENTS, &c.

SPOKTS, AMUSEMENTS, ETC., IN BUXTON AND THE DISTEICT.

( Contributed.)

HIS locality is far from deficient in sports and
outdoor amusements.

The High Peak Haeeiees, under the manage-
ment of R. W. Nesfield, Esq., Bakewell, is a first-rate pack;
established about twenty-one years ago, and, until within the
last ten years, hunted by W. P. Thornhill, Esq. The coun-
try lies to the south and east of Buxton, and there is not a
finer harrier country in England — almost entirely grass, and
the ground as sound as a bowling-green ; the fences, for the
most part stone walls, and practicable, and the hares very
“stout;” always within reach of Buxton one day in the
week; the nearest meets being — Duke of York, 6 miles;
Parsley Hay, miles ; Plagg, 7 miles ; Taddington, 6 miles ;
Brierlow, 21 miles : Monyash, 8 miles, &c., &c.

The Buxton and Peak Foeest Haeeiees hunt the
Peak Forest and Chapel-en-le-Frith districts. It is a very
good and fast pack. This district is also at times visited by
the Oldham and Rochdale Harriers.

Shooting. — Until within the last fourteen years, the Buxton
moors were open to any tolerably respectable person applying
for a ticket, for the first day of the season ; and for that day
as many as 200 tickets have been issued. This plan, however,

SPOETS, AMUSEMENTS, ETC.

287

was not found to answer, the crowd that assembled for the
day doing but little real good to Buxton. The manor has
therefore been let, and has since been shot over by subscrip-
tion, the number of guns being limited to what the moor is
found to bear, and the time extended from the single day to
the first two weeks of grouse shooting. The moor has now
become very popular, and the sport is usually very good for
the extent, somewhat over 5,000 acres; so that it is reason-
able to suppose that it is well managed and preserved. —
Joseph Perks is the head keeper.

Hawking. — On the Cheshire and Derbyshire moors, a
few miles to the west of Buxton, this ancient sport has been
successfully revived, as described by “Peregrine” in The
Field.

Fishing. — The river Wye, for five miles below Buxton, is
preserved, and for its length is perhaps the most beautiful
and romantic river in England. Trout abound, but do not
attain any great size. Grayling, too, are occasionally taken.
Tickets are issued at a moderate price for the day, week,
month, or season.— Mr. Sumner, 4, Terrace Road, is the
water keeper, and will afford every information. The fishing
might be much improved by artificial ponds and waterfalls.
Any reasonable expenditure would be amply returned by an
increased number of anglers. This length of the river
affoided excellent sport within living memory, and might
easily, at a small cost, be restored to a satisfactory condition.

The Buxton Band is engaged by the Buxton Improve-
ments Company. It is ably conducted by Mr. Julian Adams,
and the members are well selected and capable performers.
The band performs twice every day, from April or May until
November. The usual hours for the musical performances

988

SPOUTS, AMUSEMENTS, BTC.

are from 11 to 1 o’clock, and from 7 to 9 o’clock. In fine
weather, the morning performances are usually given in the
centre of the gardens; when the weather is wet or cold,
both morning and evening performances take place in the
central hall of the Pavilion. The grounds and gardens and
conservatories of the Company are very successful additions
to the attractions of Buxton. The croquet ground is
extensive, and well made and well drained. Concerts are
frequently given in the building, and are well supported and
successful. The gardens are well kept, and supplied with
successions of bulbs and bedding plants. The payment for
admission to the grounds and musie is only threepence, and
is still less in proportion when weekly, monthly, or season
tickets are taken.

There are Billiard Rooms at the Palace Hotel, St. Ann’s
Hotel, the George Hotel, and the Shakespeare Hotel.

The large, handsome, and admirably proportioned Ball
Room in the Crescent is used for concerts and other public
entertainments, and balls take place in it occasionally.

A large building at the hack of the Crescent contains the
Court House, the offices of the Buxton Local Board, and the
Buxton Estate Offices. The Petty Sessions, County Court
business, and meetings of the different public officials of the
town are held in the Court House.

DIRECTORY, &c.

DISTANCES, ROUTES, RAILWAY STATIONS, HORSES AND
CARRIAGES FOR HIRE, MAGISTRATES, CLERGYMEN
AND MINISTERS, LIST OF HOTELS, INNS,
LODGING-HOUSES, TRADES, ETC.

•

UXTON is 159 miles from London, 38 miles from
Derby, 22 miles from Matlock Bath, 12 miles from
Bakewell, 26 miles from Sheffield, 23 miles from
Chesterfield, 15 miles from Chatsworth, 13 miles from Eyam,
10 miles from Castleton, 6 miles from Chapel-en-le-Frith,
25 miles from Manchester, 17 miles from Stockport, 11 miles
from Disley, 12 miles from Macclesfield, 12 miles from Leek,
and 20 miles from Ashbourne.

The Midland Railway, via Miller’s Dale, Hassop, Bakewell,
Darley Dale, Matlock, and Ambergate, to Derby, for the
south — and to Chesterfield, for the north — affords the more
convenient route for London, Norwich, Peterborough, Bristol,
Cheltenham, Worcester, Birmingham, Leicester, &c., and
also for the Chesterfield, Sheffield, and Nottingham districts.

The London and North-Western Railway gives the more
convenient route, via Chapel-en-le-Frith, Whaley Bridge,
and Stockport, for South Wales, Shropshire, and the Pot-
teries;—for Liverpool and Manchester, for all parts of
Lancashire, Cheshire, Westmoreland, Cumberland, the West
of Scotland, and Ireland.

As to post horses, and closed and open carriages drawn
by one or two horses, pony carriages, donkey carriages, and
bath chairs, there is every variety f6r hire, by the day, hour,
or mile, according to will.

290

DIEECTOBY.

THE BATHS.

The attendants at the Gentlemen’s Natural Baths are Mr.
W. H. Wellings and Mr. Joseph Sutton ; at the Ladies’ Natural
Baths are Miss Pidcock, Miss Hill, and Mrs. Bobson ; at the
Gentlemen’s Hot Baths are Mr. George Smith, senior, and Mr.
George Smith, junior ; at the Ladies’ Hot Baths are Mrs. Cum-
ming, Mrs. Kirk, Mrs. Ward, and Mrs. Lomas. It is only just
to indicate that the invalided visitors owe very much to the
civility, activity, and experienced attention of these attendants
— the value of whose services is enhanced, in regard to the
baths of the mineral waters, by the necessity for care in their
use as to the time and temperature of the baths. — Bath
tickets are sold at the stationers’ in the Colonnade.

Attendants at St. Ann's Well Mrs. Birch, Mrs. Chappell,
Mrs. Mortin, Mrs. Renshaw, and Mrs. Littlewood. Attendant
at the Chalybeate Well:— Mrs. Barker.*

LOCAL MAGISTRATES.

Grimshawe S., Esq., Errwood Hall
Darwin Reginald, Esq., The Fern, Buxton
Robertson W. H., Esq., M.D., 6, The Square, Buxton
Slack Dr., Chapel-en-le-Frith

Renshaw H. C., Esq., Bank Hall, Chapel-en-le-Frith
Ashton R. H., Esq., Castleton
MEMBERS AND OFFICERS OF THE LOCAL BOARD.
Hobson Mr. G., Queen’s Head Inn, High-street, chairman
Barnard Mr. G. F., wine and spirit merchant, Spring Gardens,

vice-chairman

* At St. Ann’s Well the water is supplied to the public by persons elected
annually at a meetiug of the ratepayers. The money received at the Weil is
divided among the persons so elected. The payment— -the amount of t'hich
is optional— may be made either daily, or at the end of the course. The Well
is opened from the beginning of May to the end of September, from six
o’clock in the morning until seven o’cloclain the evening ; during the month
of October from seven o’clock in the mornffig until six o clock in the evening ,
during the months of November, December, January, and February, liom
eight o’clock in the morning until four o’clock in the afternoon ; during the
months of March and April, from seven o’clock in the morning until six
o’clock in the evening; and on Sundays at the same hours as ordeied for
the different times of the year, excepting from ten in the forenoon to one in
the afternoon, and from half-past two o’clock to halt-past four o clock in the
afternoon - closing at six o'clock during the summer months. Any complaints
to be made, by letter, addressed to the Chairman of the Buxton Local Botud.

At the Chalybeate Well a small charge is made.

DIBECTOEY.

291

Mortin Mr. Joseph, builder, South-street
Turner Mr. Samuel, of His Grace the Duke of Devonshire’s
Estate Office

Milligan Mr. John, draper, Spring Gardens
Bradbury Mr. James, Shakespeare Hotel, Spring Gardens
Walton Mr. I., Sheffield and Rotherham Bank, The Quadrant
Bates Mr. J. C., “Advertiser” Office, Hot Bath Colonnade
Duke Mr. R. R., architect, Manchester Road
Goodwin Mr. W., coach builder, Dale-street
Taylor Mr. Josiah, clerk, Bridge-street
Simpson Mr. John, surveyor, Fairfield Road
Stevenson Mr. T. J., inspector of nuisances, St. Ann’s Square
CLERGYMEN.

Eddy Rev. S. Ray, M.A., vicar of Buxton, Devonshire Park.
Brookes Rev. J., B.A., curate, 16, Cavendish Terrace
Mitchell Rev. H., B.A., curate, Devonshire Lodge
Smith Rev. Charles, M A., vicar of Fairfield
Stamper Rev. J. G. H., vicar of Burbage
Twist Rev. T. Howard, B.A., vicar of King Sterndale
MINISTERS.

Shaw Rev. Thomas, Wesley Chapel, Eagle Parade. Residence
Wesley Villa, West Parade

Potter Rev. T. G., Congregational Church, Hardwick-street.
Residence — Corbar Bank

Robinson Rev. R., Primitive Methodist Chapel, London Road.
Residence — London Road

Cooper Rev. J. T., Presbyterian Chapel, Hall Bank. Residence
17, Bath-street

O’Driscoll Rev. M. J,, St. Ann’s Catholic Church, Buxton

THE CRESCENT.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

J- Smilter Mr. John, Crescent Hotel

Harrison Mr. John, St. Ann’s Hotel private lodging house
Bright Messrs. S. & Co., silversmiths and jewellers

-Harrison Mr. John, St. Ann’s Hotel

Old Hall Hotel. — Mr. Brian Bates, proprietor
tr

292

DIRECTORY.

GEORGE STEEET.

Hall Mr., George Hotel

The Buxton Estate Office

The Buxton County Court and Court Boom

The Local Board of Health Office

HOT BATH COLONNADE.

Bates Mr. John C., bookseller and stationer, “Advertiser”
office

Turner Mr. James, spar museum
Potter Mr. J. W., hosier, &c.

Milligan Mr. J., draper, &c.

DEVONSHIEE COLONNADE.

Woodruff Mr. T., spar museum
Sutton Mr. W. D., bookseller and repository
Barnett Mr., pharmaceutical chemist
Robins Mr. W., bookseller and fancy repository
Bates and Lawson, wine and spirit merchants
Clayton Mr. W. E., woollen draper and tailor

THE SQUARE.

1 1 Shipton W. P., Esq., M.R.C.S., consulting surgeon to

2 J Devonshire Hospital

3 Thompson Mrs. and Langton Miss, milliners, &c., private

lodging house

4 Broomhead Mr. Joseph, plumber, private lodging house

5 Clayton Mr. W. E., tailor, private lodging house

6 Robertson W. H., Esq., M.D., consulting physician to

Devonshire Hospital

HALL BANK.

1 1 Turner Mr. James, joiner, spar museum, private lodging

2 j house

3 Hoyle Miss, private lodging house

4 Private residence

5 Clayton Mrs. John, private lodging house

6 Bates Mrs. M. E., private lodging house

7

8 Bratt Mr. R. K., private lodging house

DIRECTORY.

293

Hall Bank continued.

9 Miller Mr. Joseph, Shampooer, private lodging house

10 Noel Mr. J., spar museum, private lodging house

11 Clint Mr., confectioner, private lodging house

12 Buckley Mr. J., “Journal” Office, stationer, private lodging

house

Stubbs Mrs., King’s Head Inn Wine and Spirit Vaults
CAVENDISH TERRACE.

Barnard Mr., wine and spirit merchant, private residence

1 Smith Mr. George, 1, Cavendish Villas, manager of the

Gentlemen’s Hot Baths, private lodging house

2 Norton Mrs , 2, Cavendish Villas, private lodging house

3 Gwinnell Mr., 3, Cavendish Villas, private lodging house

4 Thackabery Mr. J. D., 1, Grosvenor Terrace, classical

schoolmaster, private lodging house

5 Bates Mr. Brian, 2, Grosvenor Terrace, private lodging and

boarding house

6 Eecles Miss, 3, Grosvenor Terrace, private lodging house

7 Newton Mrs., Holly Bank, private lodging house

8 Liddall Miss E., private lodging house

9 Thompson Mr J., Milton House, private lodging house

10 Bailey Mr. Henry, Cavendish House, private lodging house

11 Reid Miss, Derby House, private lodging house

12 Bagshaw Mr. R., 1, Stanley Villas, private lodging house

13 Ward Mr. James, 2, Stanley Villas, private lodging house

14 Bentley Mr. W., photographer, 3, Stanley Villas, private

lodging house

15 Raynor Mi'. George, farmer, 1, Lake Villas, private lodging

house

16 Liddall Miss, 2, Lake Villas, private lodging house

17 Goodwin Mr. George, Dalton House, private lodging house

18 Castleton Miss, 1, Cambridge Villas, private lodging house

19 Platt Miss, 2, Cambridge Villas, private lodging house

20 Jackson Mr. George, Westminster House, private lodging

house

21 Connelly Mrs., Eton House, private lodging house

22 Armitage Miss, Carlisle House, private lodging house
Woodruff Mr. Thomas, Tonic Bath House

294

DIBECTOBY.

HARTINGTON STREET
Bates Mr. John Cumming, Thorncliff Cottage
Malvern House Hydropathic Establishment ; Mrs. Lomas,
matron

Hyde Mr, Shaftesbury House, private lodging house
Webster Mr. T., 1, Prospect Villas, private lodging house
Tliackabery Miss, 2, Prospect Villas, private residence

FOUNTAIN STREET (Off Cavendish Terrace.)
Shelmerdine Mr. Joseph, Wesley Villa, private lodging
house

Lodge Mr., Hornby House, private lodging house

Dalby Mr., private residence

Police Station ; Mr. Barson, inspector

THE PARK (St. John's Road).

St. John’s Chinch ; Rev. S. R. Eddy, vicar
Whalley Mr., Combermere House, shampooer, private
lodging house

Redfearn Mrs., Hawthorn Villa, private lodging house
Litherland Miss, Wye Brook House, private lodging house
Dawn Mr. John, Alexandra Villa, private lodging house
Jones Miss, The Hollies, private lodging house
Adams Mr. Julian, 1, Portland Villas, professor of music,
leader of the Buxton Improvements Company's Band
Owen Mr. J., 2, Portland Villas, private lodging house
Brown Mr. James, Portland Villas, builder

THE PARK (Manchester Road).

Robins Mr. W., The Limes, private lodging house
Eddy Rev. S. R., M.A., The Vicarage, the vicar of St. John’s
and St. James’s Churches

Cheetham Mrs., 1, Athelstane Terrace, private lodging
house

Glauert Mr., 2, Athelstane Terrace, private lodging house
Turnell Mr., 3, Athelstane Terrace, private lodging house
Rodgers Mr. J., 4, Athelstane Terrace, private lodging house
Poulson Miss, 1, Devonshire Villas, private lodging house
Todd Miss, 2, Devonshire Villas, private lodging house

DIRECTORY.

295

The Parle continued.

Lee Wood Hotel— Mr. foian Bates, proprietor.

Eley Mrs., private residence

Darwin Capt. E. L., private residence

Hunt Mr. B., Park Nook, private residence

DEVON SHIEE PAEK.

Webster Mr. E., Clarendon House, private lodging house
Braybrook Mr., Devonshire Lodge, private lodging house
Darnton Mr. W., 1, Beaufort Villas, private lodging house
Lockett Miss, 2, Beaufort Villas, private lodging house
Duke Mr. E. B., Park House, surveyor, &c.

Lampard Mr., Thorn Bank, joiner, private lodging house
Brindley Mr. James, 1, Plint’s Bank, private lodging house
Metcalf Mr. T., 2, Flint’s Bank, private lodging house

DEVONSHIEE EOAD.

Devonshire Hospital ; Mr. Broomhead, master
Palace Hotel Company, Limited. — Chairman, E. Tootal,
Esq., The Weaste, near Manchester; secretary, Mr. E.
E. Duke, Devonshire Park, Buxton; Manager, Mr.
Hoadly

Shepherd Mrs., 1, Northleigh Villas, private residence
Thexton Miss, 2, Northleigh Villas, private residence
Wellings Mr. J., 1, Lismore Villas, manager of the Gentle-
men’s Natural Baths, private lodging house
Breivogel Mr. A., 2, Lismore Villas, private lodging house

COEBAE.

Dickson Mr. T., Corbar Hill House
Iloldsworth Mrs., Northwood House, private residence
Vavasour M., esq., Northwood House, private residence
Ilibbert Mr. G., Corbar Side Farm

White Mr. John, Corbar Side, farmer, private lodging house

Broomhead Mrs., Devonshire House

Dickson Dr., Hillside Villa, private residence

Potter Eev. T. G., Corbar Bank

Dickson Dr. F., Wye House Asylum

DIEECTOEY.

296

THE QUADRANT.

Turner F., Esq., M.R.C.S., L.A.C., Grafton House, surgeon
to Devonshire Hospital

1 Walton Mr. Isaac, manager of the branch of the Sheffield

and Rotherham Bank

2 Adams Mr. C., hoot and shoe warehouse, private lodging

house

3 Bentley Miss, private lodging house

4 Rushworth Mr. James, grocer and wine merchant, private

lodging house

5 Acton Mr. J., chemist, private lodging house

6 Bentley Mr. B. W., photographer, private lodging house

7 Hanson & Co., hairdressers

8 Potter Miss, young ladies’ school, private lodging house

9 Percival Miss Christine, postmistress, private lodging house

10 Fidler Mrs. Samuel, private lodging house

SPRING GARDENS.

(Left-hand side from the Crescent).

Wood Miss, Grove Hotel

Royal Hydropathic Establishment; Miss Atkins, matron
5 Milligan Mr., draper
7 Todd Mrs., private lodging house
9 Hulley Mr. E. H., tailor and woollen draper

11 Furniss Mr. Austin, hairdresser

13 Francis Mrs, confectioner, private lodging house
15 Sutton Mr. W. D., “Herald'’ Office, stationer, private
lodging house

^ | Barnard Mr. G. F., wine and spirit merchant

21 Hole Miss, refreshment rooms, private lodging house
23 Debiolel Mr. Francois, grocer
25 Brittain Mr. G., Manchester House, draper
27 Davids and Surtees the Misses, fancy repository, and British
and Foreign Bible Society's Depot
29 Waddington Mr. J., refreshment rooms, private lodging
house

31 Duke Mr. R. R., surveyor, business offices

DIRECTORY.

297

Spring Gardens continued.

33 Dodd Mr. T., draper, private lodging house
35 Pheasey Mr. John, refreshment rooms, private lodging
house

37 Smith Mr J., refreshment rooms, private lodging house
39 HeUiwell Mr. K., jeweller

41 Platts Mr. George, Cherry Tree Inn, greengrocer

43 Street Mr. John, saddler

45 Barnard Mr. G. F., wine and spirit vaults

47 Warclle Mr., boot and shoe maker

49 Pidcock Mrs. S., private lodging house

511

gg Heathcote Mr. 0., private lodging house

55 Anzani Mr, private lodging house
57 Anzani Mr., Royal Rocking Horse Bazaar
59 Plant Mr., butcher ; Chantrey Mr., greengrocer
61 Plant Mr., private lodging house
63 Coe Mr. G., joiner, private lodging house
65 Pidcock Mr. 0., joiner, private lodging house
67 Hambleton Mr., boot and shoe maker, private lodging house
69 Howe Mr., private lodging house
71 Raynes Mr., basket maker, private lodging house
73 Broomhead Mr. E., private lodging house
75 Warclley Mr., of the Duke of Devonshire’s Estate Office
77 Hulley Miss, private lodging house
79 Bates the Misses, mixed school, private lodginghouse
Livery and Bait Stables, Mr. Brian Bates, proprietor

(Right-band side from the Crescent).

2 Lawson Mr. John, wine and spirit vaults
4 Lees Mr. W., private residence
6 Hutohinson Mr., chemist
8 Vickers Mr. J., private lodging house
10 Flint the Misses, confectioners
12 Oram Mrs., fruiterer, greengrocer and fishmonger
Villdnson Mr. C., glass and china warehouse

16

^ ?i.?enson Mr*’ baker and Provision dealer, &c.

20 Millward Mr., butcher

298

DIEECTOEY,

Spring Gardens continued.

26 Flint Mr. T., draper
28 )

g0 - Bradbury Mr. James, Shakespeare Hotel

32 Slack Mr. S., tobacconist and news-agent

34 Nall Mr. James, coach proprietor, private lodging house

36 Wrigley Mr., draper

38 Turner Mr. T., fishmonger, private lodging house
40 Simpson Mrs., refreshment rooms, private lodging house
Brunt Mr., baker, 1, Longden Court
Moinahan Mrs., 2, Longden Court

Baines Mr. Arthur, 3. Longden Court, painter and sign
writer

Skidmore Mr. Thomas, 4, Longden Court, private lodging
house

42 Pitts Mr. J., private lodging house

44 Martin Mrs., private lodging house

46 Bushworth Mr. Thomas, grocer and wine merchant

48 Widdowson Mr. John, blacksmith, private lodging house

50 Bobinson Mr., private lodging house

52 Bowland Mr. P., tin-plate worker

54 Emmerson Mr. F., engine fitter, private lodging house

56 Wheatcroft Mrs., Spring House, private lodging house

58 Mortin Mr., stonemason, private lodging house

60 Bates Mr. Jesse, White Lion Hotel

62 Skidmore Mr. J., gardener, private lodging house

64 Wheeldon Mr. W., private lodging house

BBIDGE STBEET.

(Left-hand side from end of Spring Gardens).

1 Whitcomb Mr. J., Eastwood House, bellhanger, private
lodging house

3 Marsden Mr. G., musical repository, private lodging house
5 Worrall Mrs. and Gregg Miss, grocers and confectioners,
private lodging house
7 Mellor Mr., private lodging house
9 Taylor Mrs., private lodging house
11 Smedley Mr. G., gas manager, private lodging house
Buxton Gas, Coke, and Coal Company’s Works

DIRECTORY.

299

Bridge-street continued.

(Right-hand side).

2 Taylor Mr. Josiah, 1, Wilmot Villas, clerk to the Local
Board, &c., private lodging house
4 Gregory Mr. T., butcher, private lodging house
6 Lees Mr. W., private lodging house
Harris Mr. Charles, Railway Hotel
10 Rose Mr., plumber, &e., private lodging house
12 Colbert Mrs., Rose Villa, private lodging house
Evans Mr. Thomas, private lodging house
SYLVAN PARK.

1 Wiltshaw Mr. T., private lodging house

2 Mr. Samuel Turner, Eastwood Cottages, of the Duke of

Devonshire’s Estate Office and treasurer to the Devon-
shire Hospital, private residence

3 Emmerson Mr. Frank, senior, locomotive inspector (Midland

Railway) , private residence

4 Harris Mr., organist of St. John's and St. James’s Churches

and teacher of the organ, pianoforte and singing

5 Turner Miss, private residence

6 Barnett Mr., Stanley Cottage, chemist, private lodging house

HARDWICK STREET.

(Left-hand side from Spring Gardens).

1 Allen Mr. George E., Hardwick House, draper, private

lodging house

3 Hulley Mr. E. H., tailor, &c., private lodging house

5 Taylor Mr. Joseph, secretary to the Devonshire Hospital,

private lodging house

(Right-hand side from Spring Gardens).

2 Flint Mr. Thomas, draper, private lodging house

4 Bennet Robert, Esq., M.D., M.R.C.S., surgeon to Devon-

shire Hospital and coroner for the district

6 Tyzack Mr., Burlington House, grocer and wine and spirit

merchant, private lodging house
8 Hall Miss, Montgomery Plouse, private lodging house
10 Bennett Charles, Esq., M.R.C.S., secretary to the Buxton
and Peak Forest Hunt
12 Crabbe Mrs., private lodging house
14 Hull Miss, private residence

300

DIRECTORY.

LOWER HARDWICK STREET.

Terrace Road.

1 Hobson Mr. Edmund, private lodging house

2 Oldfield Mr. John, private lodging house

HARDWICK TERRACE.

Terrace Road.

Congregational Church, Rev. T. G. Potter, minister *

1 Taylor J. W., Esq., solicitor, office and private residence

2 Fisher Mrs., Norman House, private residence

3 Mycock Mr. B., private lodging house

Whittaker Mrs., Hardwick Villa, private lodging house
Plant Mr. Aaron, Holker House, shampooer, private lodging
house

Sanderson Mr., 1, Hardwick Mount, private lodging house
Eaton Mrs., 2, Hardwick Mount, private lodging house

TERRACE ROAD.

(Left-hand side from the Crescent).

1 Lawson Mr. John, private residence

2 Lees Mr. W., private residence

3 Ibeson Mr. H., watchmaker

5 Sumner Mr. R., boot and shoe maker. Tickets for fly fish-

ing in the river Wye are obtained from Mr. Sumner

6 Flint W. H., Esq., M.R.C.S., L.R.C.P., surgeon to the

Devonshire Hospital

7 Campbell Mr. and Mrs., shampooers, private lodging house

8 Potter Mr. J. W., London House, linen and woollen draper

9 Hackney Mr., Rock Bank, private lodging house
Rowland Mr. J., ironmonger

10 Thompson Mrs. E., 1, Terrace Villas, private lodging house

11 Goddard Mr. J., 2, Terrace Villas, private lodging house

12 Meggison R. G., Esq., 1, Victoria Villas, solicitor

13 Binns Mr., 2, Victoria Villas, artist, private lodging house

14 Clayton Mr. W. , private lodging house

15 Hardy Mrs., private lodging house

16 Glossop Mrs., private lodging house

17 Mc.Nish Mrs., private residence

18 Woodruff Mr. W., joiner, private lodging house

19 Yates Mrs., private lodging house

DIRECTORY.

801

Terrace Road continued.

20 Worthy Mr., private lodging house

21 Turner Mr. George, farmer and quarry proprietor, private

lodging house

Johnson Miss, private lodging house
Hobson Mr. George, New Inn

27 Shawe Mr. W., ironmonger

28 Faulkner Mrs. J.

29 Hobson Mr. George, grocer and provision dealer

BELMONT TERRACE.

(Right-hand Side of Terrace Road from the Crescent).

1 Lumley Mrs., private lodging house

2 Bacon Miss, private lodging house

3 Garle Mrs., private lodging house

4 Sleigh Miss, private lodging house

5 Shawe Mr. W., ironmonger, private lodging hous9

6 Baxter Mrs., private lodging house

7 Anzani Mr. George

ST. ANN’S SQUARE.

(Continuation of Belmont Terrace).

1 Backhouse Miss, confectioner, private lodging house

2 Stevenson Mr. T. J., auctioneer, grocer, &c., private lodging

house

MARKET PLACE.

Market Hall

Stubbs Mrs. Mary, King’s Head Hotel

DUNMORE SQUARE.

Market Place.

1 Mc.Donald Mr, provision dealer

2 Pidcock Mr. John, poulterer, game dealer, and greengrocer

4 Smith Mr. Samuel, boot and shoe maker

5 Bentley Mr. William, photographer

6 Jones Mr. Robert, plumber, private lodging house

7 Jones Mrs

8 Evans Mr. Thomas

9 Evans Mr. Joseph, greengrocer
12 Nall Mr. G., tobacconist

302

DIBECTOBY.

EAGLE STREET.

Market Place.

“Buxton Advertiser” Printing Office, Mr. John C. Bates,
proprietor

EAGLE PARADE.

Market Place.

2 Jones Mr. Morgan, grocer, Italian warehouseman, &c.

3 Hargreaves Mr., glass and china warehouse, fancy goods, & c.
Buxton Endowed School, Mr. Mill, schoolmaster

4 Bentley Mr. B. W., photographer, Mr. Latham, manager;

private lodging house

5 Woodruff Mr. Wm., painter, dealer in fancy goods, &c.,

private lodging house

6 Cumming Mrs., manager of the Ladies’ Hot Baths

7 Sellors Mr. Job, private lodging house
Thompson Mr. Robt., Eagle Hotel

9 Town Hall ; Eire Brigade engine shed
10 Wheeldon Mr. James, private lodging house
Wesleyan Chapel, Rev. T. Shaw, minister
12 Joiner’s Workshop, Mr. Woodruff, proprietor

^ l Ball Mr. E., chemist, private lodging house

SOUTH STREET.

Wild Mr. Anthony, builder

Ardern Mr. William, inlayer of marble : workshop
Mortin Miss, Scarsdale Gardens, private lodging house
Oldfield Mr. G., stonemason, private lodging house
Kirk Mrs., private lodging house
Mortin Mr. Joseph, joiner, private lodging house
Mills Mr., schoolmaster and secretary to the Buxton Im-
provements Company, Limited
Buxton Industrial Co-Operative Society, manager, Mr. Lomas
Burton Mrs , 1, Priory Terrace
Sumner Mr. J., 2, Priory Terrace, milkman
Stainfortk Mr., 3, Priory Terrace
Buckle Mr., 4, Priory Terrace, musician
Fidler Mr. Joseph, 5, Priory Terrace

DIEECTOEY.

303

South-street continued.

Marson Mr., 6, Priory Terrace
Fogg Mr. H., cab driver
Nadin Mr. James, plumber, &c.

Fidler Mr. M.

Sellers Mrs, lodging bouse

Knowles Mrs, lodging house

Martin Mr. W., gasman

Sutton Mr. W., shoemaker, lodging house

Fearn Mr. S., stonemason

Thornley Mr. James, decorative painter

Bagshaw Miss H., lodging house

Bland Mr. B., joiner, private lodging house

Nall Mrs. R., Nall’s Cottage, private lodging house

Buxton Mr. George, farmer

MARKET STREET.

1 Hobson Mr. George, grocer, private residence

2 O’Driscoll Rev. M. J., priest of St. Ann’s Catholic Church

3 Oldfield Mr., private lodging house

CONCERT PLACE.

1 Clough Mr. Henry, private lodging house

2 Hartle Mr., joiner : workshop

3 Eyre Mr. J.

4 Harrison Mr. Joseph, joiner, private lodging house

6 Fletcher Mr. Robert, joiner

7 Evans Mr. John

8 Wood Mr., quarry man

9 Street Mr. R., carter

10 Buxton Mrs., mangle house

11 Hartle Mr. T., joiner

12 Sumner Mr. R., boot and shoe maker

SCARSDALE PLACE.

1 Yates Mr. W., butcher

2 Newton Mr. J., private lodging house

3 Holmes Mr. J., farmer, private lodging house

4 Bilson Mr., private lodging house

304

DIBECTOBY.

Scarsdale Place continued.

5 Kenworthy Mrs., private lodging house

6 Mortin Miss E. E., private lodging house

7 Mill Mrs , private house

8 Evans Mr. Prank, plumber, private lodging house

9 Brocklehurst Mr. J., plasterer, private lodging house

10 Dunn Mrs., private lodging house

11 Nadin Mr. J., stonemason, private lodging house

12 Lockett Mr., Scarsdale House, hosier and draper, private

lodging house

Bramhall Mr., fancy bazaar

13 Lomas Mr. H., bath chair drawer, private lodging house

14 Bradshaw Mr. T., bath chair drawer, private lodging house

HIGH STREET.

(Left-hand side.)

1 Wilson Mr., private lodging house
3 Butler Mr. R., chimney sweeper, private lodging house
5 Smith Mr. Richard, stonemason, private lodging house
7 Worrall Mrs., private lodging house
9 Bennett Mr. R., tailor and draper, private lodging house
Hopkinson Mr. Henry, gardener

Jg ^ Wood Mr., grocer and provision dealer

15 Fearn Mr., private lodging house
17 Edge Mr. T., private lodging house

19 Henshaw Mr. S., baker, private lodging house

21 Littlewood Mr. William

23 Mortin Mrs. H., private lodging house

25 Joule Mrs., private lodging house

27 Hobson Mr. M., grocer and provision dealer

Stages Mr., Ash wood View, private lodging house
Pendlebury Mr. Thos., plumber, private lodging house
Wheeldon Mr. R., Ashwood View, fishmonger, private lodg-
ing house

Hobson Mr. T., Ashwood View, joiner, private lodging house
Drabble Mr. Geo., Ashwood View, private lodging house
29 Ball Mr., draper

DIRECTORY.

305

High-street continued.

Needham Mr., saddler
Cowlishaw Mr. J., Sim Inn

39 Pidcook Mr. John, Richmond House, butcher, private lodg-
ing house

Sutton Mrs. Mary, Cheshire Cheese Inn
‘ 43 Pearson Mr. J., 1, Temple View, fishmonger, private lodg-
ing house

45 Newham Mr. P., 2, Temple View, private lodging house
47 Holmes Mr. Job, 3, Temple View, private lodging house
49 Saxton Mr. R. H., 1, Alpha Place, private lodging house
51 Lewis Mrs., 2, Alpha Place, private lodging house
53) Prime Mr. H , 3, Alpha Place, watchmaker, private lodging
55 j house

(Right-hand side.)

2 Lawrence Mr, upholsterer

4 Roberts Mr. John, sub-post office, tailor, refreshment rooms,
private lodging house
6 Goddard Mr. G. B , musical repository
8 Brunt Mr. R., painter and decorator
10 Steeple Mrs., confectioneer, private lodging house
Hobson Mr. George, Queen’s Head Inn
14 \

16 1 Street Mr. John, grocer, private lodging house
18 Vernon Mrs., private lodging house
29 j- White Mr. Edward, butcher
24 Pinder Mr. John, plumber

26 Ward Mr. G., Alford House, private lodging house
Charlton Mr. H., Dog and Partridge Inn
32 )

34 j Nall Mrs., greengrocer, private lodging house

36 Brunt Mr. Thomas, junr., private lodging house
38 Brunt Mr. Isaac, private lodging house
Nall Mr. Robert, Swan Inn

12 Wildgoose Mr. Richard, smallware dealer, private lodging
house

44 Wheoldon Mr. W., fishmonger

46 Widdowson Mr. Samuel, blacksmith, private lodging house

306

DIEECTOBY.

High-street continued.

48 Eaton Mr. John, private lodging house
50 Brunt Mr. Thomas, joiner : workshop
52 Bramhall Mr. William, lodging house
54 Barnsley Mr. J., saddler
56 Kitchen Mr. Geo , lodging house
Nall Mr. Matthew, London Road Inn
DALE STREET.

(Left-hand side from end of High-street).

I Greaves Mr. W., private lodging house

3 Bates Mr. Robt., junr., letter-press printer, private lodging

house

5 Goodwin Mr. Wm., coach builder, private lodging house

(Right-hand side).

4 Pyle Mr. T., private lodging house

6 Lees Mr. W., private lodging house

8 Lee Mrs., private lodging house

10 Fearn Mrs., shopkeeper, private lodging house

12 Hayes Mr., book-keeper

CHAPEL STREET.

(Off Eagle Parade).

Platts Mr., Queen’s Villa, private lodging house
Infant School, Miss Stevenson, schoolmistress
Boardman Mr., joiner: workshop

TORR STREET.

(Left-hand side from Chapel-street).

3 Mc.Kay Mr., private lodging house

5 Oldfield Mr. W., stonemason, private lodging house

7 Salt Mr. James, joiner

9 Downes Mr. J., Hyde Cottage, tailor, private lodging house

II Clayton Mr. J. H., joiner, private lodging house

13 Worrall Mr. Wm., stonemason, private lodging house

15 Ward Mr. T., bath chair proprietor, private lodging house
17 Cundy Mr., butcher

(Right-hand side).

4 Drabble Mr. John, private lodging house

6 Mycock Mr. H., private lodging house

8 Hobson Mr. Geo., joiner, private lodging house

DIRECTORY.

307

WEST PARADE.

(Off Chapel-street).

Shaw Rev. T., Wesley Villa, Wesleyan minister
Boardman Mr. J., joiner, 1, Park Terrace, private lodging
house

Cooke Mr. W.,2, Park Terrace, engine driver, private lodg-
ing house

Grice Mr. R,, 3, Park Terrace, engine driver, private lodg-
ing house

Simpson Mr. Joseph, 4, Park Terrace, stonemason, private
lodging house

Henshaw Mr. John, 5, PajjJt Terrace, bath chair proprietor,
private lodging house

Chappell Mr. George, 6, Park Terrace, bath chair proprietor,
private lodging house

BATH STREET.

(Off High-street).

1 Knight Mr. Thomas, greengrocer, lodging house

3 Chappell Mrs. John, laundress
5 Bentley Mr., joiner

7 Holland Mr. John, plumber and gasfitter
9 Farmer Mr., private lodging house
11 Brunt Mrs., private lodging house
13 Harrison Mr. H., tailor, private lodging house
15 Sutcliffe Mr., private lodging house
17 Cooper Rev. J. T., Presbyterian minister
19 Harrison Mr. W., private lodging house
21 Graham Mr. H., private lodging house
23 Smith Mr. Wm., private lodging house
St. James’s Chiu-ch, Rev. S. R. Eddy, vicar

BATH TERRACE.

(Left hand side end of Bath-street).

1 Bramwell Mr. Robert, engineer at the Buxton Hot Baths

private lodging house

2 Noel Mr., spar museum

■i Wardle Mr. W., grocer and provision dealer

4 Wardle Mr. Isaac, private lodging house

x

308

DIRECTORY.

CHURCH STREET.

(Off Bath-street).

Turner Mr. R., hath chair proprietor, private lodging house

Buxton Mr. W., private lodging house

Baguley Mr. John, Wheat Sheaf Inn

Fidler Mr. William, bath chair drawer

Holmes Mr. George, tailor

Derbyshire Mrs.

Scott Mr. E., boot and shoemaker

Evans Mr. James

Lomas Mr. Robert, blacksmith

Kitchen Mr. Samuel, private lodging house

Robson Mr. Thomas, boot and shoemaker

Ardem Mrs., lodging house

Hibbert Mr. George, inlayer of marble

WEST STREET.

(Left-hand side).

Wood Mrs., private lodging house
Higginbottom Mrs., private lodging house

1 Smith Mr. S., boot and shoe maker, private lodging house

3 Perkin Mr. William, clerk of St. John’s and St. James’

Churches

5 Robinson Mr. Joshua, private lodging house

7 Ward Mr. Samuel, cab proprietor, private lodging house
9 Fidler Mr. Richard, contractor, private lodging house
11 Smith Mr., bath chair drawer

13 Plowright Mr., bath chair drawer, private lodging house
Bakewell Mrs , Hartington House, private lodging house
33 Drake Mrs., shopkeeper, private lodging house
35 Needham Mr., private lodging house
39 Brunt Mr. T., joiner
41 Wiltshaw Mrs., private lodging house
43 Davenport Mr., stonemason, private lodging house
45 Renshaw Mrs., shopkeeper, private lodging house
(Right-hand' side).

2 Hill Mr. T., glass and china dealer, private lodging house

4 Dicken Mr. W., tin-plate worker, private lodging house

6 Cantrell Mr. J., private lodging house

DIRECTORY.

309

West-street continued.

8 Buxton Mr., private lodging house
10 Mil ward Mr., railway porter, private lodging house
12 Bramhall Mr., private lodging house
14 Fidler Mr. T., private lodging house
16 Dicken Mr. T., grocer, &c., private lodging house
18 Cantrell Mr. W., Baker’s Arms
20 Gyte Mrs., shopkeeper, private lodging house
LONDON BOAD.

(Left hand side from High Street.)

O’Hara Mrs., milliner and dressmaker, private lodging house
Mellor Mr., private lodging house
Hobson Mr. W., joiner, private lodging house
Biley Mrs., Clarence Villa, private lodging house
Boseoe Miss, 1, Osborne Villas, private lodging house
Sumner Mr. W., 2, Osborno Villas, private lodging house
Bobinson Mr. Bichard, coach proprietor, private lodging house
Pearson Mr. J., spar and marble worker, fern collector, &c.
Mycock Miss, private lodging house
Goodall Mr. G., builder, private lodging house
Martin Mr., Beech Grove Cottage, private lodging house
Dineley Mr., 1 and 2, Brighton Terrace, private lodging
house

Lunt Mrs., Chester House, school
Lee Mr. .J., stonemason
Wood Mr. W., gamekeeper

Chapman Mr., Heath Cottage, private lodging house

Fidler Mrs., private lodging house

Lindop Mrs., private lodging house

Beady Mr. S. B., Bose Cottage, private lodging house

Hardy Mr., Albert House, private lodging house

Heywood Mr., Manchester Arms

Flint Mrs., lodging house

Baynor Mr. C., Heath House, farmer, private lodging house
(Right hand side from High Street.)

Piimitive Methodist Chapel; Bev. R. Bobinson, minister
Robinson Bev. R., private residence

Potter Mr. J., Bock House, railway porter, private lodginghouse

810

DIRECTORY.

London-roacl continued.

Hill Mrs., Oak House, private lodging house
Bennett Mr. T., Lincoln House, private lodging house
Hardy Mr. Joseph, 1, Derwent Terrace, private lodging
house

Farnsworth Mr., 2, Derwent Terrace, contractor
Shaw Mr., Manchester House, grocer, &c., private lodging
house

FAIRFIELD ROAD.

(Left hand side from the end of Spring Gardens.)
WOODLAND VIEW : —

1 Sims Mr., coach proprietor, private lodging house

2 Fisher Mr., coach proprietor, private lodging house

3 Guest Mrs., private lodging house

4 Cooke Mr. J., draper &c.

5 Kettle Mr., private lodging house

VICTORIA TERRACE : —

1 Magennis Mrs., hosier, private lodging house

2 Headington Mr. J., grocer &c., private lodging house

3 Turner E., bath chair proprietor, private lodging house

4 Sellors Miss, dressmaker, private lodging house

5 Newbold Mr. H., private lodging house

6 Clarke Mr., coach proprietor, private lodging house

7 Pilkington Mr. John, coal agent, private lodging house

8 Bates Mr. Francis, coach proprietor, private lodging house

(Right hand side from the end of Spring Gardens.)
Midland Hotel.— Mr. W. Lees, proprietor
Boughen Mr., Midland Villa, Midland stationmaster
Marsh Mr., builder, Prince of Wales Hotel

MIDLAND TERRACE : —

1 Bagshaw Mr. Samuel, shoemaker, private lodging house

2 Barrow Mr. J., cabinet maker

3 Richardson Mr., foreman porter, private lodging house

4 Sykes Mr. C., private lodging house

5 Smith Mr. R., private lodging house

6 Grant Mrs, private lodging house

7 Howard Mr. C., printer, private lodging house

DIRECTORY.

311

F airfield -road continued.

8 Townley Mr., plasterer, private lodging house

9 Sutton Mr., hath attendant, private lodging house

10 Bates Mr. Bobert, private lodging house

11 Mellor Mr. John, butcher, private lodging house

12 Gough Mr., lodging house

13 Clayton Mrs., private lodging house

14 Gregory Mr., bath chair drawer

15 Watson Mr. J., blacksmith, Horse Shoe Inn

STONE BENCH : —

Elliott Mr., platelayer

Smith Mr. J., private lodging house

Philips Mr. J., labourer, lodging house

Naden Mr., post office, grocer and provision dealer

Eyre Mr., Badcliffe Place, private residence

BOCK VILLAB : —

1 Maycock Mr. A., private lodging house

2 Bobinson Mr. J., platelayer, private lodging house

3 Collier Mr. J., private lodging house

Pearson Mr., Beard Villa, cab proprietor, private lodging house
MATLOCK VILLAS : —

1 McClaughry Mr., private lodging house

2 Shore Miss, private lodging house

WESTON VILLAS : —

1 Gyte Mrs , private lodging house
^ 2 Smith Mr. S., ale & porter merchant, private lodging house
Goodwin Mr. J., Bock House, farmer private lodging house
Hinch Mr. P., Middleton House, joiner, private lodging house
Taylor Mr. J. C., Clifton House, private lodging house

CLABENCE COTTAGES : —

1 Wall Mr. A3 sop, private lodging house

2 Simpson Mr. J. D., surveyor to the Buxton Local Board,

private lodging house

Green the Misses, Scarborough Villas, private lodging house

BELLE

faibfield.

TrTTTn (Left hand side from Fairfield Boad.)
vue terkace: — '

1 and 2 Harrop Mr., private lodging house
- Owen Mrs,, private lodging house

812

DIRECTORY.

Fairfield continued.

CLIFTON BANK : —

1 Bailey Mr. B., private lodging house

2 Dakeyne Miss, young ladies boarding school

3 White Mrs., private lodging house

4 House of Best for Convalescent Females
Barton Mr. Thomas, Ivy Cottage

CHURCH HILL VIEW : —

1 Bailey Mr. C., private lodging house

2 Fanshaw Mr., clerk of Fairfield Church, inlayer of marble,

private lodging house

Swann Miss, Elm Cottage, private lodging house
Goodwin Mr. T.

Wood Mr. G., Bose Cottage, private lodging house

Wood Mrs. E., private lodging house

Somerset Mr. B., coal agent

St. Peter’s Church. — Bev. C. Smith, vicar

Smith Bev. C., The Vicarage

Watson Mr. W. blacksmith

Fairfield Endowed School.— Master, Mr. Griffiths ; mistress,
Mrs. Griffiths

Harrison Mr. W., greengrocer

Millett Mr. B., joiner

Simpson Mr. B., tailor

Kitchen Mr. J., Devonshire Arms Inn

(Right hand side from Fairfield Road.)

Collins Mr. P., private lodging house
Baguley Mr., farmer, private lodging house
Chapman Mr., Bose Bank Cottage, shoemaker, private lodging
house

Midgley Mr. J., shopkeeper, lodging house

Walton Mr. J., butcher

Swinscowe Mr., lodging house

Heath Mr. Samuel, Bull’s Head Inn

Brittain Mr. T. W., auctioneer, 1, Alma Cottages

Adams Mr., 2, Alma Cottages

Green Mr. T., plasterer

Watson Mrs , private lodging house

DIBECTOBY.

313

F airfield-road.

Maycock Mrs., private lodging house
Land Mr. F., shopkeeper and coal agent
Fanshaw Mr. G. W., spar worker
Wild Mr. G., platelayer, private lodging house
Dakin Mr. W., The Cottage, private residence
Mycock Mrs., private lodging house
Slater Mr. Joshua, George’s Villa, private lodging house
Smith Mr. J., Hawthorn House, farmer, private lodging house
Lomas Mr. John, Fairfield Villa, farmer, registrar of births and
deaths for Buxton and neighbourhood, private lodging
house

Slater Mr. Joshua, grocer and provision dealer, &c.

Slater Mrs. Hannah, Mount Pleasant, private lodging house
Griffiths Mr., Mount Pleasant, schoolmaster, and clerk to the
Fairfield Local Board
Flint Miss, Ash Cottage, private residence
Frith Mr., 1, Pleasant View, private lodging house
Brunt Mrs., 2, Pleasant View, private lodging house
Slater Mr. T., farmer, private lodging house
Wainwright Mr. Joseph, farmer

Bennett Mr. H., Stoney Knolls Cottage, private lodging house
Slater Mr. Joseph, Fern Cottage, farmer, schoolmaster
HoUinshead Mr. Joseph, slater, 1, Heaton Place
Shirt Mr. James, farmer, timber merchant, &c.

BURBAGE ROAD.

Hogg Mr. Adam, Serpentine Lodge, gardener
Badger Mrs., West Cottage, private residence
Mackereth Mr. , private lodging house
Leader H., Esq., Wyelands

BURBAGE.

Spencer Mrs. Trevor, Edge Moor
Stamper Rev. J. G. H., the Vicarage
Tattersall — Esq.

Eyre Mr. H., post office, joiner, Eglantine Cottage
Norton Mr., Plex House

314

DIEECTOBY.

Burlage continued.

Hubbersty A. A., Esq.

Willoughby Mr , School House, schoolmaster

Raynor Mr. Robert, general provision dealer

Redfem Mr. Frank, proprietor and guide to Poole’s Cavern

Glew Mr. Samuel, Green Lane, fern collector

Swindells Mr. N., Duke of York Inn

Holmes Mr. Geo., Red Lion Inn

INDEX TO CONTENTS

-:o:-

Page.

Analyses of Buxton Tepid Waters

.. 188

Ancient roads near Buxton

20

Ancient wells and baths at Buxton

18

Arbor Low . .

141

Archreology of the High Peak . .

140

Arrangement of baths, &c., at Buxton

236

Ashwood Dale

89

Axe-edge

129

Bakewell

93

Baslow

108

Batham Gate

73

Bathing, effects of, in Buxton waters

184

Bateman’s, the late Mr., museum, &c.

96

Barrows, ancient

142

Beche, Sir H. de la, on geology of Derbyshire

63

Beresford Dale

118

Botanical commentary

266

Buoyancy of waters in Buxton Baths

184

Buxton Baths

. . 17, 184

Buxton Bath Charity . .

259

Buxton churches and chapels . .

148

Buxton Lime Works . .

129

Buxton Park . .

0

125

Buxton season

.. 162

Buxton, temp, the Beformation

28

Buxton in 17th Century

.. 30

Buxton in 18th Century

34

Buxton 60 years since

39

Buxton a.d. 1851 to 1856

.. 43

Buxton a.d. 1856 to 1872

44

Buxton Improvements Company

46

Castle rocks . .

.. 136

Castleton aud its caverns

. . 76

Cavendish Mr. Henry

105

Caverns in Derbyshire limestone

61, 76, 110

Chalybeate water of Buxton . .

253

31(3

INDEX TO CONTENTS.

Change of air, effect of

Page.

165

Chapel-en-le-Pritli

75

Chatsworth

105

Ckee Tor and Dale

91

Chelmerton . .

114

Circles, ancient

143

Climate of the High Peak

152

Comb’s Moss

72

Corbar Wood Walks . .

125

Darley Dale . .

• •

108

Davis, Rev. D. P., on Buxton, a.d. 1811. .

• •

39

Derby

• •

112

Devonshire Hospital at Buxton

259

Directory of Inhabitants, &c. . .

289

Diseases relievable by Buxton Baths

# #

242

Douches in the Baths at Buxton

227

Dove Dale

118

Dove Holes . .

. #

74

Drainage, sanitary effect of

# #

157

Drives near Buxton

# #

132

Dropping Loach

, ,

, .

90

Early resort of impotent poor to Buxton

• ,

• •

26

Ebbing and Plowing Well

. .

83

Ecton Mines

# ,

133

Edale • • .. •• . •

# ,

75

Edensor

102

Effects of Baths at Buxton

. .

238

Eildon Hole . .

, ,

. .

73

Elevations, &c., neal- Buxton, estimated by Aneroid Barometer

58

Elevations, sanitary effect of . .

155

Errwood, Valley of

. .

71

Eyam

• •

• •

84

Fairfield

, .

. .

72

Plash

. .

136

Fossils, limestone, &c.

• .

. . 66, 77

Gaseous constituents of Buxton Waters

• ,

208

Geological position of Buxton Thermal Springs

175

Geology of Castleton

• .

• .

77

Goyt, Vale of

• .

71

Gritstone water at Buxton

• •

. .

256

Ground Plans of Baths, &c., at Buxton

• •

237

Haddon Hall

. .

• •

101

Hartington . .

• •

118

Hassop Hall . .

• •

95

Hatkersage . .

• •

• •

SO

Heat of Buxton Springs, cause of

• •

- •

173

High Wlieeldon

. .

• •

117

History of Analyses of Buxton Waters . .

• •

• •

188

Hot Baths at Buxton . .

• •

220, 231

244

INDEX TO CONTENTS.

317

rer visits to Buxton

Igneous Rocks

Introduction . . . • • •

Jones, Dr., on Buxton, and inferences as to ingredients of
Buxton Waters

Leek • • .. •• •• •• •

Leigh, Dr., on Buxton, and Analysis of Buxton Waters
Limestone, effect of, on Atmosphere
Limestone Fossils
Limestone Springs, their scarcity
Lister, Dr., on Buxton Waters
Longnor

Lomberdale House Museum
Longstone Edge
Ludchurch
Lyme Hall
Macclesfield
Mam Tor

Manifold, the river
Marvel Stones
Mary Oueen of Scots,

Matlock Bath
Millers Dale
Millstone Grit
Monsal Dale
Mountain limestone formation

Muspratt’s, Dr. Sheridan, Analysis of Buxton Waters
Natives, eminent, of Derbyshire

Natural Baths at Buxton . . . . . . 220

Nitrogen, uses and importance of
Origin and cause of heat of Buxton Waters
Paxton, the late Sir Joseph
Peak of Derbyshire
Peak Cavern at Castleton

Pearson’s, Dr., Analysis of Buxton Waters

Physical character, itinerary, archaeology of Buxton and
the Peak of Derbyshire
Physical properties of Buxton Waters
Pilkington, Mr., on Buxton

Playfair’s, Dr. Lyon, Analysis of Buxton Waters' '

Plague, the, at Eyam
Plants, classified list of

Population, statistics of . , '

Preface, &e.

Priest-cliff

Railway Extensions to Buxton' '

Railway Facilities for Travellers
Rhedagua at Whaley Bridge . . ‘ '

Roads, ancient, near Buxton
Roches, the ..

Page.

63

3

19, 189
120
18, 190
160
66, 77
116
190
117
96
95

137
121
121

75, 80
134
73
25
109
93
69

94, 139
60
202
53

224, 230
203
167
104
15, 75
76
194

56

182

19
198

85

276

48

3

92

3

7

147

20

138

318

INDEX TO CONTENTS.

Rocking Stones

Roman Milestone found at Buxton
Rowsley

Rules for bathing at Buxton . .

Rules for drinking Buxton Tepid Waters
Saline constituents of Buxton Waters . .

Sanatory value of Derbyshire Uplands . .

Scudamore’s, Sir C., and Mr. Garden’s Analysis of Buxto
Waters ..

Seasons, the, in the High Peak
Serpentine Walks at Buxton . .

Sherbroolc Dell
Short, Dr., on Buxton, and his Analysis of Buxton Water
Source of Derbyshire Rivers
Sports, &c., account of
Stapylton’s, Mrs., letter written at Buxton about a.d. 175o
Stony Middleton
Taddington ..

Tideswell
Tissington

Tourists’ Railway Tickets
Valley of Buxton
Valley of Chapel-en-le-Frith . .

Valley of Darley
Valley of Goyt .. ..

Valley of Haddon
Valley of Taddington . .

Via Gellia
Walks near Buxton
Warslow

Water Swallows in Derbyshire limestone
Well Dressings in Derbyshire . .

Wetton Cave and Hill
Willersley

Winnats at Castleton
Wye, Derbyshire River
Youlgreave . .

Page.
144
21
102
225, 245
250
211
4

196

161

124

89

17, 191
116
286
34
88

97
84

115

10

56

74

108

71

101

98
111
126

133
74

115

134
111

83

88

96

WORKS BY DR. ROBERTSON, OP BUXTON,

8 vo,, cloth, price 10s. Gel,

THE

NATUEE AND TEEATMENT OF GOUT.

“Dr. Robertson’s work is the most complete monograph on the
subject of gout with which we are acquainted. We think that he
has not only succeeded in placing together, to the best advantage,
the chemical facts illustrative of the pathology of gout, which
have, of late years, been adduced, but also in giving a very complete
and useful and general history of the disease from his own obser-
vation. The work is evidently the result of considerable practical
acquaintance with gout in its various forms.” — Medical Gazette.

“Replete with information, brought down to the latest period,
and of a very practical character. . . . It is difficult to specify

any one part of the volume as more deserving attention than another,
for all are ably done. . . . The scenes which he describes he

has evidently often witnessed. In the chapter on ‘ treatment,’ his
observations on the use and abuses of different medicines, and their
appropriate mode of administration, are valuable, and should be
studied with great attention.” — Edinburgh Medical and Surgical
Journal.

“ This work is evidently the production of a physician practically
acquainted with the subject on which he writes, and the result of
much experience and reflection. . . The knowledge acquired

during the last half century is not lost sight of, and the light
which modern chemistry, and modern researches generally, have
thrown on various questions in physiology and pathology, is clearly
traceable in the pages of Dr. Robertson’s work. . . The ample

means of observation which the author has evidently enjoyed, and
made use of, invest this portion of his subject (the history and
treatment of gout) with an interest and authority which cannot
fail to render it generally useful to those who are less favourably
situated. . . The observations on the effects of colchicum on the

fibrous tissues, on its use in gout, and on the general principles of
treatment of the disease, and the remarks on the diagnosis of gout
from rheumatism, and on the connection of the former disorder
with cachectic and disordered states of the system, will well repay
a careful perusal ; and we cannot conclude this notice of Dr.
Robertson’s treatise without cordially recommending it as a sound
practical work, fitted for reference both as a work of information
on subject and as a guide to practice,” — Provincial Medical
aud Surgical Journal.

“Bears evidence of being the production of a man of unusually
extensive experience in the management of gouty affections.” — The
Half -Yearly Abstract of the Medical Scienve.

DR. ROBERTSON’S WORKS CONTINUED.

“ Of considerable value as a book of reference. . , The light

thrown upon this,, in common with other diseases, by chemistry
has made it requisite to be considered in new aspects; and, we
think, that it will be conceded that the author has, in this respect
given a value to his labours greatly superior to that of former
treatises upon this subject.” — The Retrospective Address , delivered
at the Fourteenth Anniversary Meeting of the Provincial Medical
and Surgical Association.

Also, in two volumes, post 8 vo., cloth, pp. 355 and 353, price 12s.,

A TREATISE ON DIET AND REGIMEN;

Fourth Edition, re-written and much enlarged, embracing the more recent
Views, Facts, and Discoveries of Chemistry and Statistics.

“ The first edition of this work appeared so long back as 1835.
The treatise was short, condensed, sensible, and perspicuous ; and
contained a view of dietetics, in which, with close adherence to
scientific principles, information on all topics relating to dietetic
and hygienic management was conveyed in a popular and interest-
ing form. Since that time, the work has passed through three
editions, in each of which the author has studied to introduce all
those improvements which the gradual progress of science, during
the interval, and his own experience in a situation where he has
occasion to observe much of the effects of diet, have enabled him
to do.

“ The present is in all respects a greatly improved form of the
work. It is manifest that Dr. Robertson has been at no ordinary
pains in explaining the scientific principles of diet, according to the
most recent and most approved chemical and physiological doctrines.

. . In conclusion, we have only to say that, while the medical

reader seeking information will peruse this volume with advantage,
it must prove highly useful to the general reader, and invalid or
dyspeptic, in warning whatto avoid and whatto choose.” — Edinburgh
Medical and Surgical Journal.

“A sensible and useful work. . , It is written in a plain,

unaffected manner, and contains much valuable information.” —
British and Foreign Medical Review.

“A good work.” — Medico- Chirurgical Review.

“It is scarcely necessary that we should add our hearty recom-
mendation of Dr. Robertson’s treatise, not merely to our medical
readers, hut to the public over whom they have an influence. It is
one of the few books which is legitimately adapted, both in subject
and manner of treatment, to both classes.” — British and Foreign
Medico- Chirurgical Review.

“ This valuable work, by the physician of the Buxton Bath Charity
is now in its fourth edition. Well worthy the attention of parents
and guardians, as well for their own sakes as for the health and
happiness of those entrusted to their care.” — Morning Post.

DR. ROBERTSON’S WORKS CONTINUED.

“ We noticed the appearance of the first volume of this work, on
a former occasion, with approval. We have since read the second
volume and find reason to repeat our approbation. . . A work

which is creditable to his judgment, and calculated to prove service-
able to his readers; we, therefore, feel no hesitation in recommend-
ing these volumes to every one desirous of accumulating a choice
medical library.” — Dublin Quarterly Journal of Medical Science.

“ The author has displayed considerable industry and research,
affording much information and many useful directions. . . .

The treatise will form a valuable addition to our stock of knowledge
on the subject of whieh it treats, brought up, as it is, to the present
state of chemical science.” — Lancet.

“As it has been wholly re-written, and the view given on the
subject brought up with the current of science, it may be regarded
as a new work. ... It deserves to be characterised as a very
sensible book ; plainly the production of a man of much intelli-
gence, of extensive reading, and of large experience in his profes-
sion. . . Altogether, the work is worth the attention of the

public as well as of the profession.” — Monthly Journal of Medical
Science.

“ The great recommendation, in our eyes, to this work, is, that
there is no quackery in it — no overdoing you with wisdom; no
panaceas. Its language is that of a friend speaking to a friend, in
plain, intelligible, modest, but impressive language, on subjects of
all but the highest importance to every one that feels that he is an
intelligent and acknowledges himself to be an accountable moral
agent. ’ ’ — Nottingham Me rcury .

This book which it would not be too much to call a supole-
mentary volume to the reports of the Sanitary Commissioners, and
to characterise as being fully as necessary to be studied ere the
social condition of the people can be rightfully understood, or
efficiently rectified — ought to be read attentively by all who would
deal beneficially with the health ofthe country.”— Preston Chronicle.

“It would be found an admirable adjunct to the labours of the

i l)rol3j°thig an improvement in the sanitary condition

of the empir e.—Bath Herald.

“ Wise and weighty . Demands the attention of the 1 Powers
la e‘ • • , • Robertson has proved that a wise man can

^Derb^Leporter^ abstlUS0 scientific subject perfectly readable.”

in therian°gX^^-iXMatiSe ^ Di6t Re®imen’ is equalled

DR. ROBERTSON’S WORKS CONTINUED.

“We must conclude our brief notice of Dr. Robertson’s work
and we do so by strongly recommending it to tlie reading public’.
Its matter is valuable, and, in many respects, original. It is a
work in winch common sense, aided by experience, is applied to
subjects of the greatest consequence to our well-being, and to sub-
jects which are seldom treated except in a narrow and bigoted
spirit. The author is an observer and thinker for himself, and we
may say for him —

‘Nullius adictus jurare in verba magistri
— huic erit mihi magnus Apollo.’ ”

— Constitutional Magazine.

Also, 12 mo., cloth, price 2s. 6 d.,

BUXTON AND ITS WATERS:

AN ANALYTICAL ACCOUNT OF THEIR MEDICINAL PROPERTIES
AND GENERAL EFFECTS.

“An interesting and judicious performance.” — The Edinburgh
Medical and Surgical Journal.

“Will prove useful to the general as well as the professional
reader.” — Medico-Chirurgical Review.

Also, in a cover, price Gd.,

A GUIDE TO THE USE OF THE BUXTON
WATERS.

Seventeenth Edition, revised.

“The recent work of Dr. Robertson puts the reader in possession
of the cases most benefited by these waters, better than I can do,
from his long experience.” — Dr. Seymour on several severe Diseases
of the Human Body.

“ To those who think to pay Buxton a visit, or may propose to
send patients there, we can recommend this little pamphlet, as
giving very useful information respecting the use and curative
effects of its tepid waters.” — Lancet.

“ We have derived much satisfaction from a perusal of this little
pamphlet, which will be found a necessary companion to all who
are inclined to pay a visit to the Buxton springs.” — Medical Gazette.

Also, a New and Revised Edition, price 2s. 6 d.,

A HAND-BOOK TO THE PEAK OF
DERBYSHIRE,

AND TO THE USE OF THE BUXTON WATERS ;
With Elevations and Plans of the Baths ; a Botanical Appendix,
by the late Miss Iiawkins, and a Directory of Distances,
Routes, Hotels, Inns, and Lodging-Houses.

DR. ROBERTSON’S WORKS CONTINUED.

Price Is.,

A LETTER TO DR. LYON PLAYFAIR,

C.B., F.R.S.,

BY DR. ROBERTSON, OF BUXTON.

Being a Medical Commentary on the Results of the Recent Analysis
of the Buxton Tepid Water; to which are prefixed a Statement
of the Improvements now in Progress in Buxton ; and Dr.
Playfair’s Analytical Report.

“Dr. Robertson is well and favourably known to the profession
by his previous writings ; and he is fortunate on the present occa-
sion in dealing with a subject at once novel and important. It
appears that Buxton has had, of late years, such an increasing
influx of invalids, that the town and baths could not properly
accommodate them, and the owner of the baths and adjacent pro-
perty, the Duke of Devonshire, has consequently made great im-
provements to meet the public wants, under the superintendence of
Sir Joseph Paxton. In connection with these alterations, which
have quite transformed the facilities for bathing, the Duke requested
Dr. Playfair to make an analysis of the thermal springs, which,
it will he seen, has resulted in a discovery of great consequences
to the reputation of the celebrated waters. It was found that every
imperial gallon of the waters contained 206 cubic inches of nitro-
gen ; and upon this gaseous element Dr. Playfair considers the
medical properties of the Buxton waters entirely to depend. We
ma7 judge of the importance of this discovery by the circumstance
stated by Dr. Robertson that hitherto only 5'57 cubic inches per
gallon were supposed to be the proportion in which this important
element was contained in these waters. As 120 gallons are dis-
charged from these springs per minute, the whole discharge of
nitrogen per minute amounts to 24,720 cubic inches.

“■^r; Robertson, after lucidly comparing the analysis of Dr.
Playfair with other analyses, and with the analysis of other ther-
mal waters, looks forward to new discoveries, and thus concludes
his interesting pamphlet : —

f J Zn w!!ld r?tUre 1° reit,eratf’ as a possibly needful corollary to
the above statements and inferences, the opinion that all the

X,‘,T1 B“‘»» tepid water, Jld e^oiauj itTgre.t

Hnn nf iactl0u’ scarcely be ascribed even to the large propor-
tion of nitrogen which it must now be held to contain (significant
and vaiuabie as it must be admitted to be), but may still be referable
this mfv bTtbe°f S°Te hlth.ert0 undetected constituent. However
and TYb ’n ^T1 aLd TgUlarly laSting effects of these baths,

putable h The™ USe i* thf Wateic’ are unquestionable and india.

of most'™ J al.most 8Pfcific for the relief or alleviation

the ntfi t o rheumatism, and of many cases of gout, for which
the use of other means and appliances has been sought and tried

DR. ROBERTSON’S WORKS CONTINUED.

in vain. In proof of this, the fact may he adduced that large
numbers of poor handicraftsmen, who have proved the effect of
this water on their suffering and imperfectly useable limbs, are
known to undergo great privations in order to secure its use at
stated intervals, from finding that no other means within their
reach enable them to maintain such a state of their joints as is
needful to enable them to follow their employment. The yearly
reports of the Buxton Bath Charity certify, that of 15,497 patients,
for the most part sufferers rheumatism, admitted to the benefit of
the institution, from the year 1838 to 1851, only 613 had to be sent
home as being ‘no better,’ the large proportion of 11,740 having
been discharged as ‘cured’ or ‘much relieved.’

“ These are great results, and may vie with any of the vaunts of
the thermalists in Germany. They should attract our invalids to
this beautiful locality in preference to the continental watering-
places.” — The Lancet , Oct. 2nd, 1852.

ALEXANDER BARNETT,

Pjannacmital Cjmitbt,

(By Examination,)

5, DEVONSHIRE COLONNADE,

PECIAL attention is devoted to the DISPENSING OP
PRESCRIPTIONS; every care is exercised to secure

accuracy, and all articles connected with the business are
of the choicest quality.

fterfumenj and Toilet Requisites,

By the Best London Houses, in great variety.

agent for

LEATH AND BOSS’S HOMEOPATHIC MEDICINES.

A. Barnett is the only Chemist in Buxton who has gained the
Pharmaceutical Society’s highest certificate.

In one vol. 4 to., Price 2s. 6<L, by post 2s. 8ci!.,

HADDON H ADD:

AN

ILLUSTRATED GUIDE AND COMPANION TO THE
TOURIST AND VISITOR,

WITH NOTICES OF

BUXTON, BAKEWELL,ROWSLEY, MATLOCK-BATH,

And other places in the neighbourhood,

BY

8. C. Hall, F.8.A., & Llewellynn Jewitt, F.8.A.

“This is a compendious and popular account of the Hall and its
neighbourhood.” — Athenanim.

“Not only the building itself, but its noble owners for the last
seven hundred years, are duly described, while the pencil frequently
comes to the aid of the letterpress in making everything plain
beyond dispute. The volume is neatly printed on toned paper, and
the wood engravings are numerous and carefully executed.” — Man-
chester Examiner and Times.

“ The book is pleasantly written and profusely illustrated, the
woodcuts (more than fifty in number) being very gems of the
engraver’s art. Altogether, it supplies a want that has long been
felt — a convenient and instructive hand-book, free from the stilted
exaggerations of ordinary guides — that will in after years serve to
assist and refresh the memory,” — Manchester Courier.

“At length Haddon Hall has had justice done to it in a guide
book worthy of its manifold beauties and of its intense interest.
* * * The illustrations to the book are fifty in number, and are

exquisitely executed, and printed in the highest style of the art.
Altogether the book has been intended to serve as a worthy souvenir
of Old Haddon, and it is truly pleasant to see that it has been so
well received by the public, and by the press, as it has been ."—The

Reliquary. . . ,

“ The illustrations are very numerous considering the size ot the
work, and give faithful representations of most of the objects of
interest, including many which cannot be photographed. The
greater portion of the work is confined to Haddon HaU, but a tew
words are added descriptive of Buxton, Bakewell Church, Matlock
Bath, and Rowsley. We heartily commend the book, and hope that
sufficient encouragement will pe given the publisher to induce him
to prepare similar sketches of •’other parts of the county. JS ot -

tingham Daily Guardian.

U

BUXTON :

JOHN CUMMINS BATES, “ADVERTISER” OFFICE.