BY

“ VIKING."

K

54295

*

C TJL .K

22101911972

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

THE

ART OF FISHCURING.

By “VIKING.”

(*• /• DUTHIE, FISHERY OFFICER , LERWICK.)

ABERDEEN :

THE ROSEMOUNT PRESS.

i 9 i i.

WELLCOME INSTUUIt

LIBRARY

Coll.

welMOmec

Call

No.

WA

j<^? °i T

PREFACE.

The favourable reception accorded to the contents of this
book on their publication serially in the “ Fish Trades
Gazette ” has encouraged the author to issue them in more
permanent form.

He does so in the hope that they may be useful in some
degree as a test-book for those engaged in the fishcuring
industry ; and he is glad to avail himself of this opportunity
of gratefully acknowledging the valuable help received
from friends skilled in branchc^of the work which fall out-
side the limits of his personal experience.

CONTENTS.

Page.

Herring Curing in Pickle : Occasional Barrels . . 1

The Herring Curing Yard ...... 5

The Buying, Selecting, and Curing of Herrings . . 16

The Hebrides, Ireland, and Shetland .... 20

The Construction of an Out-Station .... 23

Out-Stations — Construction of Dwelling-Houses and

Cost of Stations ...... 27

Men’s and Women’s Wages in the Scotch Trade. The

Yarmouth Herring Fishing . . . .31

A Kippering House ....... 35

How to Make Bloaters and Red Herrings ... 45

Herring Curing on the Continent . . . . 49

Pilchard Curing ....... 53

Mackerel Curing . . . . . . .55

Cod Curing ........ 59

How to Pickle Cod for Lent ..... 63

To Cure Cod for Drying ...... 68

To Dry Salt Fish by Fires ..... 77

Preparing and Packing Dry Fish for the Market . . 83

Cod Curing — Fish Parasites ..... 85

Roes, Livers, and Offal ...... 87

V

Haddock Curing . . . . . . . 92

To Cure Finnon Haddocks ...... 96

To Cure Smokies or Close Fish ..... 103

To Fillet Fish ....... 105

To Kipper Salmon ....... 107

Staves for Barrel Making . . . . .109

Fishery Board Examinations . . . . .110

Advertisements . . . . . . .113

«

The Art of Fishcuring.

Chapter I.

HERRINC CURINC IN PICKLE: OCCASIONAL BARRELS.

This first chapter is intended solely for the guidance of
small fishmongers and dealers who may have had no pre-
vious experience of herring curing, but who, in the course
of business, may have an outlet for a few barrels of pickled
herrings.

In the inland wholesale markets, and at the smaller
fishing ports, the price of fresh herrings is usually too high
to permit the small dealer to cure profitably, but chances
of cheap fish are sure to come to him who waits. It is
wise, therefore, to keep a few good barrels in stock — whole
barrels, half barrels, firkins, or kits, according to trade
requirements — as well as sufficient salt for the purpose, so
as to be ready to take advantage of the chance when it
comes. If the operator is a novice to the trade and has no
skilled workers available, he had better be content with
one, or at most two, barrels at first ; or, even better, he
might commence by curing small balances left over from
the counter trade, provided the fish have not been kept
until they have become soft or stale. In the latter case,
however, he should select a barrel or kit which the herrings
on hand are likely to fill; remnants packed into the same
barrel on successive days do not make a good cure.

A back shop may be utilised for the curing of an occa-
sional kit or barrel of herrings, but if a dozen or a score
of barrels be aimed at, a good-sized cellar or a small back-
yard will be required. A supply of water is, of course,
essential, and a hard floor is best to work upon and easiest
to keep clean. The orthodox “ farland ” or receiving-box
can scarcely be looked for in the premises under considera-
tion ; but the herrings should first be lightly sprinkled or
roused with salt, and this may be done either by

9

2

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

spreading out the herrings on a cellar floor, throwing salt
over them, and turning them over with a wooden shovel,
or by emptying them slowly from one vessel into another
and throwing on salt all the time. “ Housing ” on a floor
is to be preferred, however, as the work can be most thor-
oughly done in this way.

If the barrels have not already been prepared, the curer
should now unhead as many as he is likelv to require,
and either fill or thoroughly rinse them with water. If
the barrels have previously been stored in a dry place, a
good soaking is absolutely necessary. An old barrel or other
good-sized vessel should be provided to hold the offal,
" Inch, by the way, should always be got rid of as quickly
as possible after each day’s work is finished. If the her-
rings are to be selected — and this should be done if they
show much difference in size and condition — a basket, tub,
or other vessel will have to be provided for each selection.

The knife universally used for the gutting of herrings
is a sharp-pointed, short-bladed knife with a fixed handle,
which should be obtainable at any ironmonger’s shop. The
extreme length of the blade is about 2\ inches, and the
handle is about 4 inches.

Scotch girls who are employed in the curing of herrings
wrap cotton or linen rags round the thumb of (lie right
hand and the thumb and at least the forefinger of the left
hand; and this is a good plan for any novice to follow to
lessen the risk of accidents.

In gutting, take hold of the herring about the middle
with the left hand, the thumb being over one side and the
rest of the fingers over the other, and the throat of the
fish exposed. Insert the knife through the gills, with the
edge towards the operator ; give the knife a sharp turn up-
wards, and draw the right hand outwards over the herring’s
head. If the operation has been entirely successful, the
gills and stomach, etc., will have been completely removed ;
if it has not, a second movement will be necessary. Gentle
pressure with the left hand assists the operation. In draw-
ing out the intestines, however, care should be taken to
draw the right hand outwards rather than upwards, as the
latter movement is apt to tear the fish if they are tender.
If the gutting is neatly and properly done, very little of
the fish will have been removed — only the pectoral fins
and upAvards to the gills.

In an emergency herrings might be gutted without a
knife, but the work would be sloAver and the results less
satisfactory.

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

3

The selection of herrings is more fully discussed in a
later chapter.

“ Rousing” and Packing. — The most important pro-
cess in the curing of herrings is known as “ rousing.” This
is best done by hand in a large tub. A few platefuls of
salt are first thrown over the gutted herrings, after which
the packer turns them up thoroughly from the bottom of
the tub, until every herring has come freely into contact
with the salt. They are now ready for packing. A tight
barrel or kit, damp inside, is placed beside the rousing tub,
and the packer lifts a couple of handfuls of the roused
herrings, shaking the salt freely from them, and drops
them gently into the barrel. Salt should not be spread in
the bottom of the barrel before the herrings are put in.
The packer commences by placing one herring on its back,
against the side of the barrel ; two others are placed against
it, their heads to the sides of the barrel, and their tails
meeting or overlapping; a middle herring is placed in front
of the tails of the last two, followed by two more with
their heads to the sides of the barrel, and so on till the
tier is complete. The herrings should be set well up on
their backs, and the tier should be tight. Salting is an
important matter. The exact amount of salt to be used
on each tier should depend on the size and strength of the
fish, the strength of the salt, the market the herrings are
destined for, and the length of time they are likely to be
l^ept in stock. Large-sized herrings require more salt to
each tier than small, and full herrings more than spent,
but in no case should the herrings be buried in salt. As
a general rule, one barrel of salt will be required to cure
three barrels of herrings.

Upon the heads of the herrings of the first tier two
herrings (known as “ head herrings ”) are laid at each side,
and above these the second tier is laid, the herrings crossing
the first tier at right angles. Salt is again sprinkled over
the tier, head herrings laid, and the third tier crossed over
the second, and so on till the barrel is filled. Usually the
herrings are packed above the level of the barrel, as' they
sink rapidly in the salt. On the following or second morn-
ing the herrings should be filled up level, the ends put in
and tighted, ’ and the barrels laid on their sides. Before
this filling-up it is usually advisable to lift off the top tier
of the original, and wash the herrings in pickle, to remove
any discolouration resulting from exposure to the air.
Aftei the barrels have lain on their sides for eight or ten
days they should be bored in the bilge, set on end, the

4

THE ART OE FISHCUBXNG.

heads taken out, and the pickle run off through the bung-
hole. A barrel of herrings will be required to fill up five
oi six barrels, and the filling-up should be done, when
possible, with the same fish as those being filled up. Be-
fore starting to fill the barrels, the herrings in each barrel
should be pressed down with the hands, and this will be
most easily done while the pickle is being run off. The
herrings to be used for upfilling should be well washed in
clean pickle in a large-sized tub. A ring of herrings laid
round the sides of the barrel, with their backs to the wood,
will ensure firmness in the packing. The filling-up should
be done in the same way as the original packing, except
that each herring should be handled separately, and
pressed into the proper shape for its position in the tier.
Great care should be taken with the top tier, which, to^
make a full barrel, should show above the chimb of the
barrel in packing. Each herring should be pressed be-
tween the thumbs and fingers of the packer, so that the
belly of the fish will oe flattened out, and the herrings
should be set straight up on their backs. When the tier
is complete the heads of the herrings should be pressed
down, and three head herrings laid at each side. These
also should be set straight on their backs. Very little salt
should be laid between the tiers in the upfilling, and none
at all on the top tier. A little clear pickle thrown over
the top tier improves the appearance of' the fish'. Pressure
is required to get the head in, the cooper usually having to
get up on the barrel and bring his own weight to bear
on the end. When the barrel is “ tighted ” it should be
laid on its side and pickled at the bung, after which, if
care is taken that the barrel does not leak, the cure is
complete.

Chapter II.

THE HERRING CURINC YARD.

Before laying out money upon a fislicuring establishment,
every care should be exercised in the choice of a locality.
The experience of recent years seems to be that only the
large ports offer sufficient inducement to a curer to estab-
lish an expensive curing yard and buildings. The smaller
ports on the East Coast of Scotland are now mostly de-
serted, commodious stores and workshops are left vacant,
and grass is growing in yards that would be valuable in-
vestments for their owners if they could be removed to
the larger centres. The larger ports, no doubt, have had,
and still may have, their ups and downs, but with them
progress has been the rule, while the smaller ports are
being deserted. This state of matters will probably be-
come more pronounced in the future. Steam vessels can-
not work from the small ports, or, if they otherwise could,
they ^require facilities for coaling, watering, and occa-
sional repairs, which can only be found at the larger
centres.

Having selected the port that seems most suitable, the
next question that arises is the choice of the ground for
the yard. This should be within a convenient distance of
the harbour and fish mart, if at all possible. If it is an
existing yard, the intending purchaser or lessee should
satisfy himself that the drainage is above suspicion, and
that there is an ample supply of water and gas.

The size of the yard and buildings must, of course, be
determined by the curer’s requirements, present and pro-
spective, and the amount of spare capital available. But
as it is generally both inconvenient and costly to enlarge
an existing yard, it is well to provide room for a little ex-
tension of business in the future. If it can be arranged,
access to the street should be had from more than one side
of the yard.

This can be had by choosing a piece of ground extend-
ing all the way between two parallel streets, and if a corner

(i

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

site can be obtained, with streets on three sides, so much
the better. As to shape, a square or a right-angled paral-
lelogram is generally conceded to be best. If the ground
slopes, the gutting shed should, if possible, be erected on
the higher ground. All the heavy work, such as the
carrying of gutted herrings by the women, and the rolling
of barrels of cured herrings, will then be downhill, with
obvious advantages both to master and servants.

Small Herring Curing Yard. — For a curer who re-
quires a small place for the Scottish summer herring fish-
ing only, a cheap and simple plan of a curing yard is shown
on the opposite page; but in this case the curer would
have to be sure that the authorities would not object to
carts of herrings being backed and emptied into the gutting
shed from the street. A frontage of 80 feet and a length
of 120 feet would give over a thousand square yards of
ground, and might be conveniently worked by four coopers
and thirty women, or ten crews.

Gutting Shed. — This frontage, after allowing for a
gateway (1), would leave room for a gutting shed (2) of 05
feet to 70 feet in length and 14 feet to 16 feet in breadth,
with 7 feet to 8 feet of a side wall. This might be a wooden
building with permanent front and gables, but it would
require to be quite open on the inside, the roof being sup-
ported on wooden or brick pillars. If this building were
to be occupied as a cooper’s shop after the fishing season
was over, the inside wall would have to be made in sections,
which could be taken off and set aside when required.
Openings should be made in the front of a sufficient height
and breadth for the end of a cart to be backed in to empty
herrings. In the case of a wooden building, especially, it
is necessary that substantial blocks should be laid on the
ground to check the wheels. The “ farland ” or receiving-
box would run along the whole length of the shed, in one
or two sections as desired, but in either case two widths
should be arranged for, to suit heavy or light fishings. The
small size might occupy about a third, and the larger size
about the half of the width of the floor. Strong staples
and hooks at the ends, with short bolts fitting into sockets
in the floor along the front, are the usual fastenings. A
water tap, with india-rubber hose attachable, about the
middle of the inside of the shed, and a good supply of gas
for night work, would complete this building, unless a
small loft — little more than a shelf, in fact — in one end,
upon which to store lamps for outside work, spare barrel-
ends, rushes, etc., were to be added.

GROUND PLAN (No. i) OF SMALL HERRING CURING YARD.

(Say, 80 ft. by 120 to 150 ft.)

5. BARREL STORE, with SALT CELLAR in one end.

(If women’s lodgings have to be provided, there should be a loft in this store, divided off into

suitable rooms.)

6.

W.C.

9.

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HERRINGS.

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2. COOPERS’ SHOP AND GUTTING SHED. (Say, 65 ft. long by 14 or 15 ft. wide.)

3. BOLES, OR PORT-HOLES. Of sufficient size and height for a cart to back in.

STREET.

WALL OR WOODEN FENCE.

8

THE ART OF FISIICURING.

For a curer who intends to occupy the yard during the
short summer fishing only, and is not obliged to put up
women’s quarters, this is really the only building required,
with the exception of a small station office and tool store,
as at (10), and a w.c. for each sex (G).

In this case all the salt would have to be tilled into
barrels and stored three tiers high, as at (7), with the
empty barrels piled high above. The packing would be
done at (8), where there is provision for four selections if
necessary, and the filled barrels would be rolled out, as at
(9), three tiers high if required.

If barrel storage were required for the winter, and
women’s lodgings had to be provided for the summer, a
building running either wholly or partly across the far end
of the yard would best answer requirements. A loft above
could be fitted up into suitable rooms, and the lower por-
tion would serve as a barrel store and salt cellar.

The plan on the opposite page shows the ground plan of
a larger and more expensive curing yard, extending be-
tween two parallel streets, with a frontage of 150 feet to
200 feet to each street. From the main gateway (1) the
ground slopes in the direction in which the arrows point.

Dwelling-Houses. — Sites for dwelling-houses are sug-
gested at (2), partly as a promising investment and partly
because in some Scotch burghs it would be a condition of
the lease or feu charter that dwelling-houses up to a certain
specification should be erected along the front of the
ground. For outhouses, etc., sufficient space would have
to be allowed behind the dwelling-houses; and this space
would have to be walled off from the curing yard, as at
(3). A gate at X would close the yard at any time, with-
out inconvenience to the tenants of the dwelling-houses.

Gutting Shed and Cooper’s Shop. — A building situ-
ated in the middle of the yard as at (.G) would serve as a
cooper’s shop in the winter and as a gutting shed during
the fishing season. To give accommodation for fifteen
crews of women, it should be from 90 feet to 100 feet long
by 14 feet or 15 feet wide, with slated roof, supported on
pillars of brick or wood, 7 feet high. The gables might be
either of wood or masonry — preferably the latter — but the
side walls should be of wood, and made in sections, either
to hoist up inwards or be otherwise removed during the
fishing season. The side intended for the front of the
cooper’s shop would have to be well furnished with win-
dows, and these would have to be so fitted as not to inter-
fere with the hoisting or removal of the side sections.

GROUND PLAN (No. 2) OF HERRING CURING YARD.

B. STREET.

8.

GATEWAY.

7. BARREL STORE.

Preferably with Loft, to hold from 5,000 to 10,000 Barrels or more.

One end of this Store should be fitted up as a Salt Cellar, with floor of thick
pavement or battens, strong enough to bear a cartload of salt.

8.

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4. W.C.

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I BACK COURT AND OUTHOUSES.
DOORWAY.

MAIN

GATEWAY.

DWELLING-HOUSE.

A. STREET FRONT, say, 150 to 200 ft.

AY ALL, dividing from adjoining premises.

10

THE ART OE FISHCURING.

The farlands would extend from end to end of the shed,
say, two farlands, each 40 feet to 45 feet long by 6 feet to
9 feet wide; three, each 25 feet to 30 feet long, or four of
18 feet or 20 feet in length. In either case there should
be passages between the ends of the farlands, to allow the
women to carry herrings to the opposite side of the yard.

In the ground plan No. 1, the front of the
gutting shed served as one side of the farland,
but here a complete farland would be necessary.
It may be described as a shallow, oblong box, standing

about 2 feet high, with the sides and ends sloping inwards
to allow the gutters to stand the more easily when working,
as here figured. In the yard under discussion the farlands
would be set up along one side of the shed, close to the
pillars. The carts would be emptied at that side, and the
women would work at the other side of the farlands, well
under the roof of the shed.

Packing, etc. — Barrels of salt might be tiered up at
(9), for convenience; the packing would be done at (10),
and the barrels of herrings, when headed up, would be
tiered away at (11). Gateways (8) to street B would greatly
facilitate the work of carting away herrings for shipment,
etc. Instead of being parallel, (9), (10), and (11) might,
if preferred, be placed at right angles to (6). In this case,
however, (9) would be represented by a single pile of bar-
rels of salt on each side, placed at right angles to the
middle of the shed (6), and a selection of herrings (10)
would be packed on each side of the salt.

The Store. — The store (7) should be a substantial stone
and lime building with slated roof, made to hold from
5,000 to 10,000 barrels or more. As each barrel occupies
about 4| cubic feet of space, the curer would know pretty
accurately from his plans what the capacity of his pro-
posed building would be. One end of this store should be
fitted up as a salt cellar, but not necessarily divided off
from the rest of the store. The salt cellar should have a
floor of thick pavement or battens, strong enough to bear
the weight of loaded carts. In the inner wall of the store
— i.e., fronting into the curing yard — there should be at

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

II

least two sliding doors, liigli and wide enough to admit a;
loaded cart. One of these doors should be near enough to
the salt cellar to allow carts to be backed inside and
emptied. The store might have a loft running along its
whole length, if required. If not, a small loft in
one end would be useful for many purposes, such as
storing away tools, truss hoops, etc., during the fishing-
season, and keeping small stores throughout the year. It
is well to keep tools and truss hoops well away from the
influence of salt and pickle during the fishing season, other-
wise they are apt to rust. When preparing plans and
drawings for a store, it would be well to bear in mind that
a herring barrel is about 31 inches long by 21 inches in
extreme diameter, and the height and breadth of the store
should be calculated so as to have no serious loss of space.

Women's Lodgings. — If women’s lodgings had to be
provided in addition to the dwelling-houses (2), there
would have to be a loft in the store (7), divided into suit-
able rooms, to which there should be access by outside
stairs.

Minor Buildings would be a small office (12) inside the
gate and a w.c. for each sex. If (7) were to be used only
as a barrel store and salt cellar, (4) would be the best posi-
tion for the w.c.’s, to allow for an easy connection with the
drainage system for the dwelling-houses. Another useful
small building would be a trussing shed, in which to “fire”
the barrel’s. For a yard like this there might be two truss-
ing sheds, situated as near the cooperage door as possible,
with two or three “ firing berths ” in each. These trussing
sheds should be cheap erections of corrugated iron, well
ventilated at the apex of the roof, and so fastened that they
could be taken down and removed out of the way during
the herring fishing season. Six to seven feet would be a
sufficient height for the side walls, and the breadth need
be no greater than to allow a man to move comfortably
round his barrel when trussing.

Nothing has been said in this article about water or
gas, but it will be understood that an ample supply of
both should be provided at the gutting shed at least.
“ Gut barrels, ’ to hold the herring offal, might be set at
(13), which should be paved with concrete for cleanliness.

Gutting Shed and Coopers’ Shop. — Ground plan No.
3, which appears on the following page, shows a plan of a
large yard on a corner site, with streets on three sides,
the adjoining property being most probably another curing
yard. The ground slopes from street A in the direction

COOPERS' SHOP, with women's rooms above. MAIN 2. GUTTING SHED, say, 120 ft. long by 15 ft. wide, with

ES TRANCE. port-holes for emptying herrings from carts.

GROUND PLAN (No. 3) OF LARGE HERRING CURING YARD.

B. STREET.

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BARRELS OF HERRINGS,
tiered either in the
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10.

BARRELS OF HERRINGS,
tiered either in the
“Seastick” condition, or
when “finished" and
ready for shipment.

10.

BARRELS OF HERRINGS,
tiered either in the
“Seastick” condition, or
when “finished” and
ready for shipment.

10.

BARRELS OF HERRINGS,
tiered either in the
“Seastick” condition, or
when “ finished ” and
ready for shipment.

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GATE.

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

13-

in which the arrow heads point. Separate buildings are
here suggested, on opposite sides of the main entrance, for
the gutting shed and coopers’ shop ; hut it might be advis-
able to have the gutting shed longer, and the cooperage
shorter, than shown on the plan. The coopers' shop might
be so constructed as to serve as a gutting shed also during
the herring fishing season, if required. In this case, as in
Plan I., provision is made for emptying the herrings
through port holes in the front of the shed (2) facing the
street (A) ; and the inside wall would have to be made to
open from end to end, either by hoisting the sections in-
wards towards the roof, or by lifting them aside during the
fishing season. The latter would therefore have to be of
wood or corrugated iron, but the front wall and gables
should be of mason work, with a slate roof. The coopers’
shop (3) might be all of mason work, with an upper flat
fitted up as women’s quarters. The trussing shed (12)
might, in this yard, be a fixture.

Sites for dwelling-houses are suggested at (G), fronting
street B, and a large barrel store, with commodious salt
cellar in one end, and loft running the whole length of
the building at (5), fronting street C.

Doorways at (4) would be convenient, and they should
be wide enough to let a herring barrel be rolled through
easily. Gateways at (7), wide enough to let a lorry
through, would provide the best outlet for barrels of cured
herrings for shipment. If gate (7) at street B were used
by the tenants of the dwelling-houses, an inner yard gate
might be necessary at (13).

Barrels of salt piled up at (8) would be in a convenient
position, and the packing would be done at (9) on either
side of the salt. This would allow for the packing of four
selections. The two principal selections — i.e. , the kinds
that are most numerous — should be packed nearest to the
gutting shed, to give the women as little carrying as pos-
sible. The barrels of herrings, when “ tiglited,” would
be rolled to the lower half of the yard (10), where they
v ould lie till they were filled up, and, if necessary,
branded, and afterwards wait for shipment.

Packing Shed. — Nothing has hitherto been said about
a packing shed ; but where there is room and convenience
for it this is a most useful building to have in a curing
}aid. . On ground plan No. 3 there would be a very suit-
able site at 9x. The packing shed, in its simplest form, is
meiely a loof set upon pillars, inside of which packing may
be done in comfort in wet weather. In a yard like that

14

THE ART OK FISHCURING.

under discussion, however, the building (of which I here-
with give a sketch, showing construction of roof and sliding
doors) should be long and broad enough to allow two selec-
tions of herrings to be packed in it at once. The roof
should be of slate or corrugated iron, and should be well
supplied with skylight windows. For night work a good
supply of gas should be led along the joists iu the centre
of the building. The pillars might be 10 ft. or more in
height, and the building should be closed in all round, the
walls being made in sections, either to slide on pulleys or to
hoist up inwards. A building of this description would be
useful all the year round. In winter it would be used for
storing staves and heading, hoops, etc. ; and by opening
sections or doors on opposite sides of the shed a draught
would be created that would thoroughly season the wood
and keep it in good condition. Then, in the event of the
other buildings being filled up, a considerable number of
barrels might be stored in the packing shed instead of being
put outside, as is often the case during the spring or early
summer.

In ground plan jSTo. 1, if there were no store
in the upper end of the yard, its place might be taken by a
packing shed near and at right angles to the middle of the
gutting shed.

Occasionally a packing shed is constructed high enough
to have a loft in it. The only drawback to this arrange-
ment is that the packers can only get light from the sides;
and in a broad building such as this, the centre, where the
work is principally done, can only be well lighted from the
roof. A compromise between the two arrangements is to
leave a number of the flooring boards unfastened in the
centre of the loft, and to have windows in the roof directly
above, so that when the loft is empty the boards may be
lifted and the light admitted.

Plant. — The plant required for a business employing,

THE ART OF FISIICURING.

15

say, half a dozen coopers and fifteen crews of women (three
in each crew) would be as follows : — Each packer would
require four rousing tubs, making a total of sixty, at least,
for the yard. A rousing tub should be large enough to
hold as many herrings as will fill a barrel. A common
size is about 27 in. wide by 15 in. to 18 in. deep.

Each crew of women would require six carrying tubs
or other suitable vessels — for instance, a small “ spale ”
basket might be given to each woman instead of one of the
tubs. This would allow one carrying tub to each woman
for each of the two principal selections, and one between
them for each of the smaller selections. The carrying, tub
used in the Scotch trade is about 10 in. deep and of the
same width as the end section of a herring barrel, being
made in the smaller hoops of a barrel truss.

Each gutter would require either a small “ cog” or a
tin basin into which to throw the offal ; and each packer
should have a similar, or rather wider, vessel in which to
keep salt for laying on the tiers of herrings as she packed
them.

A vessel large enough to hold a barrel lengthwise, either
an oval tub or an oblong tank, is a very essential item in
a fishcurer’s outfit, and for a large yard there should be
two, one at each side. In these tubs the empty barrels
are immersed and tested as to their tightness before being
filled with herrings.

For a business of the above description, from 700 to
1,000 barrel covers should be provided for laying on the
tops of the “ upsets ’ or newly packed barrels. If many
half-barrels are likely to be used, there should also be a
supply of half-barrel covers. The covers should overlap
the barrels by about an inch all round. They are made
with two bars nailed across them, and should be well coated
with coal-tar on the upper side.

Small stores include a supply of gutting knives and
tin salt plates, “ flags ’ or rushes for tightening barrels,
spare hoops, both iron and wooden, for repairs, a torch
lamp for each packer, and a supply of oil (usually creosote
or paraffin). A wheel-barrow, a scavenger’s scraper, and
brooms are indispensable for cleansing purposes.

Chapter III.

THE BUYINC, SELECTING, AND CURING OF HERRINCS.

Buying. — When the curer has got his curing yard ar-
ranged to his mind, his next concern is the buying of his
herrings. This is a most important part of the business.
A capable, judicious buyer may make money in herring
curing when a less competent judge of herrings may find
it impossible to hold his own. Here, however, as in most
other walks in life, there is no royal road to success : a
curer has to learn by experience, and profit by his mis-
takes. But if he has in his employment a man who shows
any special ability in judging and buying herrings, that
man’s services should be duly appreciated and, if at all
possible, retained.

In the Scotch trade the fish are mostly sold by sample,
and as the quality, as a rule, varies greatly, much care
and judgment are" required on the buyer’s part, especially
after spent herrings begin to make their appearance. Each
sample purchased should then be counted in the salesman’s
presence, and the numbers of the different selections
marked on the docket; then, while the fish are being dis-
charged, the bulk should be tested, once or oftener, to
make sure that the fish are as good as represented. On
the Norfolk and Suffolk coast the quality is generally
much more uniform than in Scotland.

Rousing in the Fareand. — When the curer has made
his first purchase, the process of curing commences when
the herrings are being emptied out of the carts into the
fail a nds. A cooper should be in attendance to throw

platefuls of salt on the fish as they are emptied out. If
the herrings are to be gutted at once, a light, regular
sprinkling of salt will be sufficient: but if they have to
lie all night in salt, the “ rousing ” should be heavier, and,
if possible, the herrings should be turned over with a shovel
during the process. Apart, however, from fish which aie
likely to have to lie a good few hours in salt befoic being

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

IT

gutted, shovelling should be done sparingly, especially if
the herrings are soft. Rather than have much shovelling,
many curers prefer to “ rouse ” into barrels any fish that
are likely to lie overnight ; and they can be afterwards
emptied into the farland as required. This rousing must,
of course, be done at the boat’s side. Along with his
empty barrels, the curer brings down as many barrels of
salt as he is likely to require, according to the quantity of
herrings purchased ; an empty barrel is placed in a con-
venient position, and a cooper takes his place immediately
behind it with a salt plate, and a barrel of salt within easy
reach. When the fishermen lift a basket to empty the
herrings into the barrel, it is the cooper’s duty to see that
the fish are well and regularly salted. The fishermen
should empty the baskets slowly, stopping, when neces-
sary, till the cooper replenishes his salt plate. It is not
sufficient to sprinkle salt into the barrel, it is much better
to throw it over the herrings as they are leaving the basket,
and after each basket is emptied the barrel should be well
shaken to make sure that the fish are thoroughly roused.
If, as is usually the case, the gutting is done at only one
side of the farland, it is a good plan to have wooden shoots
to run the herrings across to the women’s hands. In a
gutting shed with port-holes these shoots may be fixtures,
and in other cases portable sections of boarding about the
breadth of a cart.

Selection. — The process of gutting has been fully de-
scribed in Chapter I., but nothing was said then about
selection. “ Trade mark ” curers — i.e., those who do not
use the Government or “crown” brand — have generally
standards of selection of their own, but it will be sufficient
for our present purpose if we take the Scotch Fishery
Board’s sizes.

“ Lafull.’’— Of these the first is the “ lafull ” selec-
tion. Herrings intended for the crown lafull brand must
be large full fish of not less than I1J in. in extreme
length ” when cured. If, on examination, more than
fifteen spent, torn, or broken, or more than fifteen under-
sized herrings are found in the original packing of a barrel,
or more than six in the filling up, the inspecting officer is
entitled to withhold the brand.

(( ^or ” brand the herrings should

jc ful l fish of not less than 10J in. in extreme length
when cured. . Fighteen objectionable herrings in the
oiiginal packing and nine in the filling up constitute the
limits allowed for this brand. For both the “ full ” and

3

18

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

“ lafull ” brands tbe herrings should be quite full of milt
or roe.

“ Matfull.” — “ Matfull ” herrings are 9j in. long
when cured, but in this case it is sufficient if milt or roe
is clearly visible at the neck or throat. If more than
twenty-one defective herrings are found on inspection in
the original packing of a barrel, or more than nine in the
filling up, the officer is justified in rejecting the fish.

“ La Spent.” — For the “ la spent ” brand the herrings
should be not less than 10j in. in extreme length when
cured. If more than eighteen objectionable herrings are
found in the original packing, or more than nine in the
filling up, the fish are not considered worthy of the brand.

“Spent.” — The crown “spent” brand is applied to
barrels of “ spent ” or empty fish of less than 10j in., but
not less than 9 in. in extreme length, provided not more
than eighteen objectionable herrings are found in the ori-
ginal packing, or more than nine in the filling up.

“ Mattie.” — The “ mattie ” brand is put upon barrels
of small-sized herrings that are ineligible for any of the
other brands. They must, however, be at least 9 in. long,
and the original packing should not contain more than
thirty, nor the filling up more than twelve, torn or other-
wise defective fish. To be eligible for this brand, how-
ever, the fish must not have been caught on the coast of
Shetland before the first of July, or on the Fast Coast of
Scotland before July 10; and the presence of an excess of
oil in the barrels may also disqualify the herrings for
the brand.

To assist in the selection, wooden gauges, with the
various lengths marked on them, should be kept beside the
farland — at least one gauge for every cooper. Notches
showing these lengths may also be cut on the upper edge
of the farland in front of each woman, for reference when
required. The men in charge of the packers can give
material assistance in the matter of selection by frequently
examining the herrings in the rousing tubs, and repotting
any defects. All fresh herring gauges should be a quarter
of "an inch, at least, longer than the regulation sizes for
the cured fish, to allow for shrinkage of the fish during the
process of cure.

“ Rousing.” — The necessity for having the herrings
thoroughly roused by the packers has been emphasised in
Chapter I., but the importance of this part of the work is
a sufficient excuse for reverting to it- AY hen the v omen
are kept busy, and especially when their hands begin to

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

19

^et sore, some of the packers may be found doing this part
of the work in a careless and slovenly manner. The cooper
in charge should, however, guard against any neglect of
this part of the work, as it is the rousing and pickling that
really preserve the fish. If herrings have not been properly
roused it will at once he seen in the condition of the fish
when the barrel is opened for inspection. The herrings
will then be found sticking together in the tiers, and when
separated they will be scaleless and discoloured, with a
brown gum adhering to the skin. Such herrings will not
taste so well as properly cured fish, and they cannot be
depended upon to keep for any length of time.

It may be worth remarking here that herrings should
not be allowed to lie longer in the rousing tubs than can
be helped, otherwise the salt drains them too much. Such
herrings, when at last packed, are usually found to have
lost their original pickle. The salt may be lying white
and undissolved between the tiers, and the herrings are
usually too hard cured. If, therefore, the foreman sees
a packer getting far behind her gutters with her part of
the work, he should insist that one of the latter should
come out to assist the packer until the rousing tubs are
emptied.

Chapter I. described the process of filling up. It should
be understood, however, that any objectionable herrings
seen during the filling up should be kept out; the selection
for the up-filling of a barrel should be perfect.

Cleanliness. — It is scarcely necessary to say that every
curing yard, and all curing utensils, should be kept as
clean as possible. In actual experience, however, the re-
verse is too often the case. Workers may be seen literally
wading in pickle, dirty salt, and fish offal, where an occa-
sional hour of a labourer with a scavenger’s tools would
keep the place dry, clean, and tidy. If men and women
have to work day after day in dirty, comfortless surround-
ings, it need not be wondered at if they lose interest in
their work and become careless and slovenly.

In the long run it will generally pay the curer well to
see that his yard is kept tidy. Coopers and women will
soon realise that the best they can do is expected from
them, and that nothing less than their best will satisfy.
Sooner or later the curer’s customers also, from the large
wholesale agent who buys his cured herrings on the Scotch
or English coast to the retail dealer who finally disposes
of them in the interior of Germany or Russia, will recog-
nise the merits of the curer’s brand, to his ultimate profit.

Chapter IV.

THE HEBRIDES, IRELAND, AND SHETLAND.

The herrings caught and cured in May and June at the
Hebridean and Donegal stations are known in the curing
trade as “ matjes.” Being delicate and generally costly
fish they have to be even more carefully cured than East
Coast herrings. They do not — or should not — contain
milt or roe, and they are much fatter than herrings in that
condition. Their stomachs are usually found filled with
such food as small shrimps, or other free-swimming crusta-
ceans, mackerel midges, small sand-eels, etc. It is neces-
sary that the gutting be carefully and thoroughly done,
otherwise the contents of the stomach and the fat adhering
to the long gut may cause the fish to deteriorate. “Matje”
herrings should be gutted as soon as possible after being
landed. They should never, if it can be avoided, be al-
lowed to lie long exposed to the sun. The women should
be prevented from setting carrying baskets upon the her-
rings in the farlands ; apart from the indispensable “ gut
cog,” no weight should be allowed to be put upon them.

Selection and Cure. — As a rule, there are only two
selections, large and medium; broken, torn, or very small
fish are thrown aside. Most curers use English salt (second
fishery) for rousing, and Spanish salt for laying on the
tiers. After the herrings have been well roused, the
rousing salt is shaken from them before they are lifted
out of the tub; then, as each tier is laid, a little Spanish
salt (only a few grains) is sprinkled over it. As the salt
shaken off after the rousing would soon accumulate in the
tubs, these should be emptied frequently to keep the her-
rings clean. All rousing tubs should, of course, have
several bungholes bored in their bottoms to allow the blood
to escape. This applies to both East and West Coast
curing.

Pickling. — Immediately after a barrel of “ matjes is
packed, a quantity of clean made pickle should be poured

THE ART OF FISIICUIUNG.

21

into it— about a bucketful to a whole barrel, and half that
quantity to a half-barrel. The usual rough-and-ready
method of making pickle is to dissolve salt in clean water
until the liquid is strong enough to float a fresh herring
or a potato, preferably the latter. A special form of hydro-
meter registering up to 40 per cent, is also used. Put iuto
the natural pickle which herrings produce in the process
of curing, this hydrometer usually shows a buoyancy of
about 20 per cent. For “ matje ” curing, pickle made
f rom Spanish salt is generally used ; and, as the curing
of the fish depends mostly upon the pickle, it should show
a buoyancy of 25 per cent.

Filling Up. — After standing on end for two nights,
West Coast “ matjes ” may be filled up for the first and
last time. The surplus pickle is usually poured off over
the chimb of the barrel, and not through the bunghole.
The barrels are never filled so hard as on the East Coast.
In the filling up it is scarcely necessary to say that all her-
rings which are in the least objectionable should be laid
aside.

If not intended for immediate shipment, “ matje ” her-
rings should be carefully covered up to protect them from
the sun. If there is no shed available they should be
covered either with empty barrels or with barrel covers.
When shipping, the curer should make sure that his barrels
are put into the hold, and not upon the vessel’s deck.
With the hot weather usually experienced in Tune, a deck
cargo of “matje” herrings may be fairly scalded on a
voyage from Ireland or the Hebrides to a German or Rus-
sian port.

Shetland Matjes. — In the Shetland herring fishing
there are points of similarity to both the East and West
Coast (of Scotland) fishings. The season is a long one, ex-
tending, roughly, from the beginning of May till the
middle of September, or later— the western stations being
the earliest in the district and the south-eastern the latest.
Until the middle of July, or later, the Shetland herrings
are generally all more or less of a rich oily nature ; and
though the larger proportion may contain milt or roe in
a more or less advanced state of development, there is
usually a fair proportion of “matjes” also. In fact,
curers who lay themselves out to cure “ matjes ” in Shet-
land can generally get a selection of this class of fish during
the greater part of the season. As showing the extent to
which “ matje ” curing is now carried on in Shetland, it
may be mentioned that the annual exports from the dis-

22

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

trict to St. Petersburg average over 100,000 barrels, where-
as the combined exports from Stornoway and Castlebay to
that port are generally less than half that quantity. The
fancy prices which are generally obtained in the Russian
port for best Irish and Castlebay matjes are never realised,
or even approached, for the Shetland fish ; but, as their
fresh herrings are bought much cheaper, the Shetland
curers appear to find the trade a profitable one, and it has
been extending.

Branding. — Very few herrings are selected for the
crown brand in Shetland till near the end of July. From
the beginning of August onwards, however (apart, of
course, from “trade markers”), branding becomes uni-
versal. The most noticeable difference between the Shet-
land herrings and those landed at the East Coast (of Scot-
land) stations is that the former are much larger, on an
average, than the latter. When selected for the crown
brand, therefore, the Shetland fish generally yield a large
proportion of lafull herrings, but very few matfulls or
matties.

American Trade. — While Shetland “matjes” have
been finding an increasing outlet by way of St. Petersburg,
Shetland large fulls have been quite as steadily growing
in favour in America. New York is the principal market
for them, but Boston, Philadelphia, and some other ports
also take supplies. There are no direct shipments to
America. The large herring wharves and stores which are
such important factors in the trade at the Baltic ports are
practically unknown in the United States, probably be-
cause the trade there is yet in its infancy. The cured her-
rings find their way, generally in lots of a few hundred
barrels or less from each sender, to Glasgow or Liverpool,
whence they are forwarded to their destination by the large
Atlantic liners. Gnly goods of the very best quality and
cure, not too heavily salted, are wanted in America, and
nothing else need be sent. Although Scotch curers “ con-
sign ” freely to the German and Russian markets, they are
generally chary about risking consignments to America,
preferring, if possible, to sell their herrings before ship-
ment. Seeing that the fish are mostly sold in small lots,
curers for the American markets have thus to be prepared
to hold up considerable quantities of their stock, often for
months together, waiting sales. This means the tying up
of capital, which many curers, with other fishings to pre-
pare for, cannot spare; so the American trade has hitherto
remained in comparatively few hands.

Chapter Y.

THE CONSTRUCTION OF AN OUT-STATION.

West Coast and Shetland stations differ from East Coast
stations in several important particulars. In the former
case the curer has to build his own wharf or landing-stage,
and generally also houses to accommodate his workers. The
selection of a site is, therefore, an even more important
matter than on the East Coast. Inside some well-sheltei'ed
harbour the curer has to find suitable depth of water, and
soft or, at least, clean bottom, where boats or vessels will
sustain no damage if they should take the ground. On
shore there must be nothing to prevent the curer from ex-
cavating and levelling the ground to the desired gradient
at a reasonable cost ; and the surroundings of the dwelling-
houses must be above suspicion from a sanitary point of
view.

Out-Stations in the Hebrides. — It was in the
Hebrides that these out-stations, as now understood, were
first constructed ; and they may be said to date from the
great development of the herring fishing at Castlebay about
the end of the “sixties” and the early “seventies.”
Before that period, curers at out-stations in the Hebrides,
Orkney, and Shetland had generally been content either
to utilise some existing pier, or to work upon open beaches,
where fishermen ferried their herrings ashore from the
anchorage in small boats, or ran their herring boats
aground abreast of the curing stations, and carried their
herrings ashore when the tide ebbed.

Shetland Stations. — Shetland began to attract atten-
tion about a dozen years later than Castlebay. Partly,
perhaps, profiting by their own or their neighbours’ ex-
perience at the Hebridean stations, and partly because of
the heavier fishings generally landed in Shetland, curers
have usually made their Shetland stations larger, their
sea-walls and landing-stages more substantial, and their
dwelling-houses more commodious than in the Hebrides.
But even in Shetland itself this process of development has

24

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

Plan A.

been evident : stations constructed in recent years being
generally larger, costlier, and more elaborate than for-
merly. A description of one of these modern Shetland
stations may be interesting, as they are probably the best
of tlieir class.

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

25

Size. — A. common size is from 150 feet to 200 feet of
frontage (occasionally 250 feet, or even larger), with the
right to go at least as many feet inland. Operations
should be commenced by the building of a retaining wall,
preferably of concrete, along the whole front of the ground
near or beyond the low-water mark. As this wall will he
subjected to great pressure from behind, and often exposed
to heavy surf in winter storms, it should be strongly built :
say, from 18 inches to 24 inches thick at the top, and from
4 feet to 5 feet thick at the foundation. It is the rule that
deep harbours have steep shores, so some excavation is
usually required to bring the station ground to the desired
level ; and the material thus dislodged is useful for filling'
up the space behind the retaining wall. A gradient of
1 foot in 14 feet gives a sufficient slope to make a dry
station, and not too much for convenience in working.

Wharf. — As it seldom happens that there is sufficient
depth of water at the edge of the retaining wall, this defect
is remedied by running out a wharf or landing-stage con-
structed of wood resting on iron trestles. Plan A, fig. I.,
shows the outer section of the frame of such a wharf. The
legs* or supports (1) and cross-heads (7) are constructed of
heavy rail iron with diagonals (2) of angle iron, 3 inches
by ^ inch, all securely fastened with inch screw-bolts. To
strengthen the frame of the wharf, and protect the iron
rails from being snapped by the sudden impact of a boat
or vessel, it is wise to set pitch-pine logs (3) outside the iron
rails of the outer trestle, a similar log being set in the
centre, outside the diagonals. These logs should be at
least 10 inches by 6 inches, and to prevent them from
being worm-eaten they should he dipped in creosote, and
covered with galvanised steel sheeting from about a foot
above high-water mark downwards. They should be
bolted to the iron rails with four 1-inch screw-bolts through
each leg. With these additional supports the wharf will
he better able to stand the chafing and strain of vessels
alongside, and there will be less vibration when there is
heavy traffic on the jetty. Similar logs might with advan-
tage be set up alongside the next two trestles. Cross
beams (4) of pitch pine, 10 inches by 6 inches, are neces-
sary to keep boats from getting under the wharf. These
should he outside the uprights, wooden and iron; and the
wharf would he improved by the addition of diagonal cross

This is meant to apply to the iron rail, which is drawn in the centre,
and (.1) to the pitch-pine log set outside the iron, with the close lines for
the iron rails inside.

2(>

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

beams (5) of the same material as at (4). The ends of the
four top “ stringers ” are shown at (6), and the ends of the
high-water stringers at (8).

Fig II. shows a lateral view of the frame of the wharf.
The iron rails forming the supporting trestles are shown
at (1). These stand 10 feet or 12 feet apart. No. (2)
shows the top “ stringers,” of which there are four, upon
which the cover or deck of the wharf rests. Another
stringer (3) runs along each side of the frame, about the
high-water mark. These stringers should be strong pitch-
pine beams, at least 12 inches bv (i inches. The slope of
the bottom is shown at (4), and the concrete retaining wall
along the front of the station is shown at (5). Cross beams
at (6) help to support the end of the jetty against pressure
from the seaward.

Fig. III. shows the construction of the top of the wharf.
The “ stringers ” already mentioned are shown at (1), and
at (2) the crossheads of the trestles upon which the stringers
rest. At (3) is shown the arrangement of the cover or
deck, with a gradual widening of the wharf as it meets
the front wall of the station. The cover is made of battens,
(>i inches by 2^ inches.

At (4) are shown two double lines of rails, which run
from the point of the wharf up to about the middle of the
station. These rails are fitted with a trolley each, the
trolley being large enough to hold eight baskets of her-
rings. Four boats’ crews can thus discharge their fish at
once, two crews getting a trolley between them and putting
on a cran each at a time. These rails are also useful for
the discharging of curing stock, etc., or for running down
barrels for shipment.

When boats were smaller and lighter, and before rails
were much used, these landing-stages were seldom more
than 15 feet wide, but nowadays a breadth of 18 feet to
21 feet is necessary.

Depth of Water. — A depth of 5 feet or 6 feet of water
at the outer end of the wharf at low tide is absolutely neces-
sarv under present conditions. If, however, a foot or two
more can be got by extending the wharf a dozen or twenty
feet farther, there should be no hesitation about the addi-
tional expense. From wharves where the water is shallow
most of the cured herrings have to be boated off for ship-
ment, at a cost of 2d. per barrel ; whereas, where the watei
is deep enough, cargo steamers will generally come in to a
wharf, even fora few hundred barrels. Fishermen, too, soon
come to know, and give the preference to, stations where they
run no risk of taking the ground and losing a night’s fishing.

Chapter VI.

OUT-STATIONS — CONSTRUCTION OF DWELLINC-
HOUSES AND COST OF STATION.

In the matter of the house accommodation provided for the
workers on these stations there has been much less uni-
formity than in the construction of wharves. All curers,
however, appear to be agreed that the dwelling-houses
should be built on the highest part of the ground, and that
their sites should be made as dry as possible. If there is
much excavation to be done to bring the station ground
to the desired gradient, the sites of the dwelling-houses are
usually left at the original elevation, the ground being
drained and levelled, and, if the surface is mossy, a hard
foundation is laid to keep the floors dry.

Some curers run a row of single-room huts across the
upper side of their ground. In other cases there may be
found substantial two-storey wooden buildings of double
width, with eight rooms above and eight below. The
principal objections to a house of this design are that it
is likely to be too noisy for comfort, and that the upper
rooms are less convenient for the storage of stock left over
at the end of the season than rooms on the ground flat. In
addition, these houses are often built in exposed situations,
and a low building is less likely to be damaged in very
stormy weather than a high one.

Women’s House. — Plan B shows plans of houses that
have been growing in favour with curers of recent years.
Fig. I. shows the front elevation, and fig. V. the ground
plan, of a dwelling-house for women, with accommodation
for sixteen crews. The house is double, with four rooms
on each side, and fitted to accommodate six women in each
room. The walls are made of good seven-eighths ploughed
wood, stoutly nailed upon a framing of battens 6 inches
by 2 inches. There is a substantial 1^-inch flooring, rest-
ing upon 6-inch by 2^-incli sleepers. The roof is of wood.

28

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

covered with corrugated iron. The chimneys are of brick,
each room having a separate vent (fig. V. c), otherwise the
house would probably be smoky. The partitions between
the rooms are of seven-eighths ploughed lining. In each
room there are two large beds made of strong deals, as
shown at b, fig. Y. Round the eaves there are heavy gut-

Plam B.

Fig ii. *

Fig. in.

[i —

[]

_c

m

in n

rrrfl

Mill

1 - -

— 1 —

Fig. iv. Fig.v.

5D

b

^ CJ

b

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■ wmn

-1

b

-<j

4 =0.

0

C 1

b

r i~tt» - . J

1

U U '

ters, with barrels at each gable to catch the rain water, as
water is often scarce and not of the best quality. Fig- III-
shows the framing of the gable. If the pitch of the roof
is fairly high, a room 14 feet by 12 feet, with 9 feet of a
side wall, may give the necessary space of 400 cubic feet
for each person occupying the room. A room 14 feet
square writh a 9-foot wall will certainly be large enough.

Coopers’ House. — Figs. II. and IT . show the front ele-
vation and the ground plan of a smaller house intended for
the accommodation of the coopers. It is half the size of

the art of fishctjring.

29

the women’s house, and is usually divided into three rooms.
A large room for the coopers occupies one-half of the build-
ing. The other half is divided in the same way as the
women’s house, one room being fitted up as an office and
bedroom for the manager, and the other being the house-
keeper’s room. Fig. III. shows the framing of the gable
for both houses. Closets are generally erected at the sea-
wall, on each side of the wharf, one closet being required
for every twenty-five workers of either sex.

Farland Sheds. — Salt cellars are not much in evidence
at these out-stations, the salt being almost invariably put
into barrels as it is discharged. Farland sheds are, how-
ever, of great service, and the wonder is that they are not
universally used. Only a roof set upon stout posts is
required, the roof extending 3 feet or 4 feet beyond the
farlands on either side. With a double line of rails, such
as were described in Chapter V. and shown on plan A,
the farland sheds would be erected about the middle of the
station, on each side of the rails. The women would stand,
when gutting, at the outside of the farlands — i.e., the sides
farthest from the rails. The rails, with the sides of the
farlands nearest to them, would thus be left clear for the
fishermen when discharging herrings. Wooden shoots
(referred to in Chapter III.) may be arranged to run the
herrings across the farlands to the women’s hands, and so
save shovelling. In this instance, these shoots may be
quite narrow, as only one basket is emptied at a time.

Cost. — One approaches with considerable diffidence the
qxiestion of the cost of a station such as has been described.
The amount of excavation necessary, and the nature of
the ground to be excavated ; the depth of the water and
consequent length of the wharf ; the quality of the material
used in the construction of the wharf and houses ; and the
thickness and strength of the retaining wall, will all be
important factors in the bill of costs. The dwelling-house
for women described might cost from £160 to £180, and
the coopers house half that sum. When wharves were
lighter in construction they used to cost about 20s. per
lineal foot., but at present, with the extra weight and cost
of material, they cannot be quoted below 30s., or perhaps
more. A landing-stage of 100 feet in length might, there-
fore, be estimated at £150 ; or, for 150 feet, £220. A con-
crete retaining wall, 200 feet long, 11 feet or 12 feet high,
and 2 feet thick at the top, by 3|- feet or 4 feet at the
foundation, would cost about £100 oi’ more. Two farland
sheds, one on each side of the rails, might cost £25 to £30

TIIE ART OF FISTIC U KING.

30

each. These might be 50 feet long by 14 feet broad, and
would simply be roofs of corrugated iron, or wood covered
by felt, set upon posts 7 feet high, with gables planked
over, but both sides open. Kails, trolleys, and closets
would be other items, besides the cost of excavating and
levelling the ground. The latter would depend entirely
upon the nature of the site. It might cost very little be-
yond the removal of the surface turf and the laying of a
good bed of stones and gravel, or it might cost several
hundred pounds, if much quarrying and excavating had
to be done. As mentioned before, where the shores are
high the water is generally deep, so what is saved off ex-
cavating has usually to be spent on a landing-stage. Where
the shores are level, these wharves are frequently 200 feet
or more in length. But from the above figures it will be
seen that from £600 to £1,000 would be required to con-
struct a curing station such as I have described ; and for a
larger station, with additional dwelling-houses, etc., the
cost might be a good deal more.

Chapter VII.

MEN’S AND WOMEN’S WACES IN THE SCOTCH TRADE.

THE YARMOUTH HERRING FISHINC.

Coopers’ Wages. — Barrel Making. — Before machin-
ery was introduced the standard rate for barrel making
in Scotland, when trade was good, was about Is. per barrel
—seldom much more or less. The introduction of machin-
ery has brought about certain changes and modifications.
Most curers now get their ends dressed by machinery, and
pay the coopers Id. per barrel less on this account. In
some cases the staves are also dressed by machinery, which
entails a further reduction in the rate, generally to 6d.
per barrel. As the coopers are able to turn out more
barrels per week, however, their gross earnings are not
affected. In steam factories everything is done by machin-
ery except the hooping of the barrels ; and for this part of
the work 3d. per barrel is considered fairly good wages.

One important point has to be kept in mind here, how-
ever By the introduction of Swedish spruce staves in-
stead of the harder and rougher varieties of wood formerly
used, and the substitution of iron for wooden hoops, barrel
making is now very much easier than it was. It is gener-
ally admitted that five barrels can nowadays be made as
easily as four could have been twenty-five years ago ; there-
lore, when trade is good, a cooper may now easily earn

per cent more than under the old conditions.

Coopers V ages during the Fishing Season. — For a
number of years coopers have been paid from 35s. to 40s.
per week during the fishing season at the principal Scotch
stations When going from home all travelling expenses
aie paid in addition. If no lodgings are available within

nrnvirl0nabl|e C1StanCf °f the °unng yard, the curer usually
pi ovules a house and pays a housekeeper’s wages; the men

then bearing an equal share of the housekeeping expenses

32

THE ART OF FISIICURING.

This is the usual arrangement at out-stations in Shetland
and the Hebrides.

Women’s Wages. — Women’s wages vary a good deal.
The usual rate per barrel gutted and packed is 8d., with
3d. an hour for all other work; but there are always sub-
stantial items in addition. At the East Coast stations a
retaining fee known as “ arles ” is usually paid to each
woman. It may range from £1 to £4, according to the
length of the season, the demand for female labour, and
the experience and skill of the worker. ^Vomen going to
work at out-stations get, in addition to the ordinary rates
per barrel and per hour, their travelling expenses, lodgings,
and fuel; and, instead of “ arles,” usually a weekly wage
of about 8s. Other terms are, of course, frequently agreed
to ; but, on the whole, payment partly by fixed wages and
partly by results seems to give most general satisfaction.
When neither arles nor weekly wages are paid women look
for Is. per barrel.

On the East Coast of Scotland, of recent years, the de-
mand for female labour has been so great that not only
have the Hebrides been drawn upon for workers, but Irish
and even Swedish women have been brought over for the

great summer fishing.

Curing Expenses. — Curing expenses include the price
of the barrel and salt, men and women s wages, harboui
dues and carting, rent and taxes, and sundries, such as
hoops, rushes, knives, tacks, lamps, oil, etc. As a rule,
it takes from 7s. 6d. to 8s. to cure a barrel of herrings, but
these figures are generally exceeded at the out-stations,
owing to the expense of transferring stock and workers.
Working expenses are, of course, least when coopers and
women can be kept fully employed, and greatest when
there is little or nothing for them to do.

Yvrmouth and Lowestoft Herring Fishing.—
Although the Yarmouth herring fishery is a very ancient
industry, curing in pickle for the Continental markets is
a comparatively recent development of the business on the
Norfolk and Suffolk coasts. At no other stations in .Britain,
however, has there been such rapid and steady extension
of the business as at Yarmouth and Lowestoft, ihe tact
that the East Anglian fishing season comes on after the
close of all the principal Scotch fishings has attracted
Scotch curers, with their experience and energy, their
skilled workers, their capital, and their stock. At Yar-
mouth and Lowestoft the pickling trade is almost entirely
hands of the Scotch curers. The English buyers

m

the

THE AH.T OF FISIICERUNTG.

33

give their attention mostly to the fresh trade, both with
the home markets and with Germany, and to the curing
of bloaters and kippers.

One or two points of difference between the Scotch and
East Anglian fishings may be worth noticing. In the
Moray Firth and along the East Coast of Scotland gener-
ally, rough, dark nights are always best for fishing ; but on
the Norfolk and Suffolk coasts the best results are usually
obtained on clear moonlight nights. Then, on the Scotch
coast the herrings appear to have deserted their old haunts
on the inshore grounds, and fishermen have had to go
farther and farther to seaward for them every year — often
80 to 100 miles or more. The English fishing, on the
other hand, is got in a comparatively small area, and
usually on the same ground year after year. The fishing
generally starts to the north of Yarmouth, and draws
southward as the season advances ; but occasionally this
order is reversed. To judge by the enormous quantities
landed at Yarmouth and Lowestoft in a good season, the
number of herrings congregated on the small fishing area
must be incalculable.

The Scotch cran has now almost entirely superseded
the old system of selling by count on the English coast.
In Lowestoft, however, after the herrings have been sold
by sample, the buyer provides kits or barrels into which
to discharge them ; whereas in Yarmouth the fish are gener-
ally discharged into swills provided by the salesmen, and,
on account of the expense incurred in keeping up these
swills, the Yarmouth salesmen give no discount to the
buyers.

Scotch curers who have tried both stations say that
the work is much easier in Yarmouth than in Lowestoft.
At the former station the carts are low, and can be loaded
quickly and easily. Much time and labour are thus saved
when discharging fresh herrings or shipping cured stuff.
In Lowestoft, on the other hand, the carts are very high,
to suit the high platform of the market, and the work is
thus heavier.

A larger staff of workers is required than on the Scotch
coast. The landing frontage is very extensive, especially
at Yarmouth, and this necessitates more men to attend to
the discharging of the herrings. Then, on account of
the keen demand for herrings for the fresh markets, prices
aie often so high that curers are compelled to stop buying
foi days, perhaps for weeks. TV hen, therefore, a big sup-
ply brings prices down to a figure that they can afford to

4

34

THE ART OE FISHCURING.

pay, curers must he prepared to buy a large quantity, in
order to make up for lost time, and this means the employ-
ment of a greater number of women than would be con-
sidered necessary at a Scotch station.

The curing is done after the Scotch method, and the
selections are made upon the lines of' the Scotch Fishery
Board’s Regulations; but there are practically only three
selections — full, matfull, and mattie. Few spent are got
at this fishing.

Second Fishery Liverpool salt is almost universally
used. It is mostly brought by rail, and costs about 23s.
per ton delivered.

Russia provides the great outlet for the herrings cured
at Yarmouth and Lowestoft. In the German markets the
Dutch are successfully maintaining their long-standing
connection, and as they are generally prepared to accept
somewhat lower rates than the British, the latter have
found it more profitable to exploit the Russian markets.

Coopers’ wages at Yarmouth and Lowestoft are much
the same as in Scotland, and the women get the usual
Scotch rates of 8d. per barrel gutted and packed, and 3d.
an hour for filling up, etc. As a rule, however, no
“ aides ” are paid for the English fishing. The women re-
ceive instead a weekly wage of 8s. or 10s., inclusive of
lodging allowance. As travelling expenses amount to
£2 5s. to £3 for each man and woman, or even more
for very long journeys, and the bill for stock freights is
usually a goodly sum, curing expenses are very heavy. In
an ordinary season they may be safely calculated at 10s.
per barrel cured.

Chapter "VIII.

A KIPPERING HOUSE.

Tor the erection of a kippering establishment little more
space is absolutely necessary than a site for the buildings.
If it is available, however, it is an advantage to have in
addition a small yard, at least large enough for a cart or
lorry to turn in and be loaded or unloaded, and with room
in the corners for storing empty fish boxes, barrels, or kits,
and for the accommodation of the offal barrels. A piece
of ground about 100 feet long by GO feet broad would give
ample room for the necessary buildings and these other
requirements, and a few barrels of herrings might be gutted
and packed in it, too, in an emergency.

Plan 1 (page 36) shows the ground plan of a kippering
house situated in a small yard of the above dimensions,
fronting the street at A. A wall or fence of rough f-incli
boarding 8 feet high (C) surrounds the yard, and separates
it from the adjoining property (B). The ground floor of
the fish house and shed should be of concrete, pavement,
or brick, and the floor of the kilns must be of brick, as
concrete would be damaged by the heat of the fires. The
fish house or splitting shed (D) is 42 feet long by 25 feet
wide and 10 feet high. Its floor slopes gently inwards to
about two-thirds of its breadth, where it is well drained,
trapped, and ventilated, and connected with the public
sewer.

E shows the plan of the kilns, of which there are five,
of two voids each. Each kiln is 18 feet by 8 feet, with
brick division walls (G) 7 feet high, and wooden partitions
extending from the top of the brick walls up to the roof.
I is a packing shed behind the kilns. It is 42 feet long by
16 feet wide and 10 feet high. As F will only occasion-
ally be used as a packing shed, the inner end of it may
usually be utilised as a chip store. A bench (H) about 42
feet long by 2 feet 9 inches broad ocmipies the whole front
•of the fish house. This bench is about 3 feet high, and in

THE ART OF FISHCVRING.

3()

front of it wooden gratings should be laid for the splitters
to stand on. These platforms should be so made as to
nullify the slope of the floor and provide a level footing
for the workers. K shows the yard gate, L a large sliding
door for the fish house (D), and M a smaller door for the
store (F). The position and arrangement of the kiln doors
is shown at N in the fish house (D), and similar doors open
into the store(F). A stairway (0) leads up from the inner
end of the fish house to the packing loft above, a similar
stair leading up at P in store (F).

f

I

PLAN I.

YARD

“Mil

N

D ^

E

H

FISH HOUSE

42:0" *25 O'

E

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E

Ge=

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-J

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PACKING

SHEBf1

STORE i ^
42 0"» |o CT 1

YARD

J. K_ _

A K

Fig. 1 (page 37 ) shows the front elevation of the building.
Five windows (A), at a convenient height for the splitters’
bench, give light to the fish house. The packing loft above
has a door (C) in the centre, and two windows (13) on each
side of the door. Benches similar in height and breadth to
the bench in the fish house run along the front of the loft,
on each side of the door. Upon these benches the kipper
boxes are made, and, when full, are nailed up. The door
C is used for passing in box wood and passing out boxes
of kippers. The latter could be slid down a shoot; the
former would have to be handed or thrown rip from the
cart. This packing house is exactly the same size as the
fish house below, and in it most of the packing and box-
making would have to be done. Its roof (E) is of corru-
gated iron, and it should have three skylight windows (D),
each 4 feet by 4 feet. The kiln is roofed with tiles or
corrugated iron, and ventilated as shown on fig. 2 (F) (page

THE AET OF FISHCUEING.

37

Fig. 2 shows the end elevation of the building.
The door of the fish house is shown at A, a sliding door
large enough to admit a cart or lorry, but with a wicket
gate in it for ordinary traffic. B shows the position of the
loft front floor, and C a door at the end of the packing

loft. In working this loft it would probably be found most
■convenient to take in all the box wood at this door and store
it immediately inside it, while the bulk of the kippers
would be passed out at the front door (fig. 1, C), which,
being in the centre of the loft, would entail less carrying.

38

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

The position of the top of the brick walls which divide the
kilns is shown at E, and the position of the ventilators at
F. Gr and H show the positions of the door and window in
the store behind the kiln, and K and L the door and window
in the loft above, which would also have three skylight
windows in the roof, the same as in the roof of the" front
loft. With buildings of this size it should be possible to
kipper 60 or 70 crans a day, but if a smaller business were
contemplated — say, 40 to 50 crans — the back loft (X) would
not be required, and the roof (R) would rise from S. The
gutters and conductors from the roof of the kiln and lofts
are indicated at D.

Splitting. — The process of splitting is generally done
by women, and may be thus described : — A woman stands
facing the bench, with an empty barrel for offal at her
left side (but mostly under the bench) and a small basket
behind the barrel. Lifting a herring with her left hand,
she brings its head towards her and its back towards her
right hand, in which she holds a kippering knife. Pressing
the palm of her left hand down upon the herring to keep
it in position, she enters the knife about the middle of the
fish, just above the bone, taking care not to run the blade
out through the belly of the fish. First she draws the knife
up to, but not through, the upper lip ; then she reverses the
blade and runs it down near, but not through, the tail,
keeping the knife running close along the bone. With her
left hand she now opens the fish, and with the knife and
the thumb of her right hand she removes the gills and vis-
cera, which are slipped into the offal barrel, while with the
left hand the split herring is dropped into the basket. Care
should be taken to remove the silvery gland known as the
sound along with the rest of the offal, otherwise the appear-
ance of the finished kipper will suffer from its presence.

Washing. — The wash-tub should be placed near a water
tap and cesspool, and a short indiarubber hose should lead
the water into the tub. When herrings are being washed,
a constant flow of water should be allowed to run into the
tub, near the upper edge of which, and opposite the side
where the washer stands, there should be a large bunghole
to allow the overflow water to escape. A man carries the
split herrings from the bench to the wash-tub, leaving an
empty basket in place of the full one he removes. A wide,
shallow basket is kept floating in the wash-tub, and into
this each small basket of herrings is emptied. The washer
then grasps the washing basket by the handles, and gives
it a few rapid turns to right and left to rinse the herrings

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

39

thoroughly, but taking care not to leave them too long in
the water.' After this he lifts the washing basket on the
edge of the tub, and leaves it for a few seconds until the
water drains from the herrings, which are then emptied into
a carrying basket. A quarter-cran basket is a useful size
for this purpose.

Pickling. — The making of pickle has already been de-
scribed in Chapter IY. For pickling kippers large vats or
tanks should be used. A convenient size would be 6 feet
long by 3 feet wide by 2 feet 9 inches or 3 feet deep, and
three or four of these would be required. The time al-
lowed for pickling the herrings should depend to some
extent upon the state of the weather and the season of the
year. Soft herrings require longer time in pickle than
firm fish, and certain markets require more salt than others.
Half-an-hour may, however, be taken as a fair average
time.

When sufficient herrings have been emptied from the
carrying baskets into the pickling vat, the fish on the top
should be spread out, back up, and freely sprinkled over
with salt. This salt assists in curing the herrings on the
top, and helps to keep up the strength of the pickle. Pickle
for kippers may be used repeatedly, but not so often in
summer as in winter. On account of the heat of the atmo-
sphere and the fatty nature of summer herrings, pickle
turns sooner stale and sour in summer than in winter. The
strength of the pickle, however, should be tested regularly,
with a salimeter if possible, and salt added as required.

Troughs.— Half-a-dozen troughs will be required, each
3 feet 6 inches long by 11 inches or 12 inches deep by
1-j feet to 2 feet wide, fixed upon upright supports, each
with a notch at the top for holding a tenter. The upper
edge of the trough should be about 3 feet high, and the
tops of the supports 14 inches or 15 inches higher. The
trough should be tight, so that no pickle could leak
through, but it should be fitted with a false bottom — a
wooden grating laid on the bottom, which would help to
drain oft any pickle adhering to the herrings.

The tenters are wooden bars 4 feet long by 14 inch by
1 in®h. There are sixteen tenter hooks on each side of
the bar, so that a tenter will hold eight herrings on each
side. The hooks are in pairs 3^ inches or 34 inches apart,
according to the size of the herrings likelv to be got, and
about H inches between each pair of hooks. From 5,000
to 0,000 tenters would be required for a kiln of the above
dimensions.

40

THE ART OF FISHCVRING.

There are usually a few young girls as learners in a
kippering establishment, and when the first herrings have
been drawn from the pickle these learners commence to put
them on the hooks. Two girls (or four) stand on opposite
sides of a troughful of herrings; they lay a tenter along
the tops of the uprights, and lifting the herrings from the
trough they hang each upon a pair of hooks, the back of
the fish being towards the wood, and the hooks piercing
the herrings below the lug bones.

A pair of racks are placed inside the kiln in which the
first herrings are to be hung, and upon these racks the
full tenters are now laid. When the racks are full the
smoker and his assistants, commence to hang the herrings
up in the kiln. Care must be taken when hanging the
herrings to place each full tenter directly above the one
below it. The uprights or standards upon which are fixed
the stringers or framing upon which the tenters are placed
in the kiln will help the smoker to judge his distances; he
will see how many tenters he can place comfortably between
each pair of uprights. After the kiln is full the smoker
may easily see if the hanging has been properly done by
looking up through the kiln from below. There should be
a small clear space right up between each pair of tenters,
tier after tier, to allow the steam and smoke to go up freely.

With a few 1 earners tentering from the commencement
of the day s work, at least one kiln should be filled and the
fires set agoing before the splitting is finished. After that
the rest of the women should be turned on to the tentering,
when the full tenters will have to be taken straight from
the troughs to the kiln, and the smoker and his assistants
will be kept busy hanging until all the herrings are worked
up.

Racks. — The racks referred to above are 7 feet long by

feet high, with five rails 8 inches apart. Upon these
the tenters with the newly smoked kippers are placed when
they are taken from the kiln to allow the fish to cool. From
a dozen to a score of racks should be provided, the greater
part of them to be kept in the packing loft, and the rest
divided between the fish house and the store F (Plan 1 —
see page 36) behind the kilns.

Smoking. — A great deal depends upon the man who is
in charge of the smoking. Often through the want of ex-
perience and knowledge on a smoker’s part a houseful of
valuable fish may be scalded and lost. For smoking pur-
poses oak chips and oak sawdust are considered best, both
for colouring and flavouring. Generally six small fires

THE ART OF FISIICCRIXG.

41

are lighted in each kiln, three under each void. The fuel
consists of a small heap of chips covered over with a layer
of sawdust. The smoker iu charge should kuow by experi-
ence the quantity of sawdust necessary for the kind of chips
used, and for the ventilation of the kiln ; but he should
watch carefully lest the fires should burn up too quickly
and give off too much heat. A little additional sawdust
will keep the flames down. The smoker must also watch
how the kilns vent. With different directions of the wind
different results may be experienced. Sometimes the kilns
will draw up at oue end and not at the other. It would
then be the smoker’s duty to open, or partly open, the
doors at the side where the kilns are drawing well, so as
to send the draught back to the other side, and give all
the herrings in the kiln a fair share of the smoke and heat.

The first fire being burnt off, another has to be laid,
when, as a rule, a little more sawdust has to be used than
for the first fire, as less heat will now be needed. Without
a certain amount of heat herrings will not take on a proper
colour, but if the kilns should be overheated the fish will
be scalded, and fall off the hooks. Generally, therefore,
after the first fire, less heat and more smoke should be
aimed at.

When the second fire has burned off it will generally
be found that the herrings upon a few of the lower stringers
in the kiln are sufficiently smoked, and may be taken down
and set upon racks to cool. This will probably happen at
night, when only one man, or at most two, will be attend-
ing to the kiln. It would then be most convenient to have
the racks set on the ground floor, either in the store F
(Plan 1 — see page 36) or in the fish house, which would
now be empty. Before applying another fire the smoker
should try to judge what strength of a fire would be re-
quired to complete the smoking without overdoing it, and
regulate the quantity of fuel accordingly.

TV hen the third fire has burned off, a good many of
the herrings in the lower part of the kiln will be found
to be ready. These also should be removed and set upon
lacks in the packing loft, and fires should be applied until
the remaining herrings are also ready to be taken down.

nv herrings that are not ready when the packers com-
mence their work in the morning are left hanging in the
kilns, and allowed to cool there after the fires have burnt
•out.

A capable smoker should be able to take bis kippers all
■out about one colour. This may often be difficult, but it

42

THE AET OF FISHCURING.

should not be impossible if he studies his kiln carefully
and profits by his experience.

Packing. — Before commencing to pack, the herrings
must be allowed to hang on the racks long enough to cool
thoroughly, otherwise they are apt to sweat, and arrive
at the market in bad condition. But with the night staff
stripping the kilns as fast as the herrings are ready during
the night, there should be plenty of cooled herrings ready
for packing by the time the women arrive to commence
work in the morning. It is at this stage that the packing
stools prove useful, as they can be placed near the racks
where the kippers are hanging. This saves carrying each
tenter to the bench, and allows the work to go on quietly
and methodically. Placing an empty kipper box on the
stool, a women lifts a tenter of herrings from the rack with
her left hand, and with her right hand she takes off a pair
of herrings — one from each side of the tenter — bringing
them face to face as she takes them off the hooks on which
the herrings are hanging back to back. Each pair of
herrings is placed in the box as they are taken off the
tenters, the first tier being laid across the box with the
heads of the fish all to the same side. When the tier is
complete, two pairs, with their heads towards opposite ends
of the box, are laid across the tails of the first tier. The
second tier is laid in the same way as the first, except that
the heads of the herrings are laid the opposite way ; two
pairs are again crossed over the tails, and so on till the box
is filled. Each box, as soon as it is filled, is carried from
the packing stool to the bench, where it is covered with a
sheet of paper, and the lid is nailed over it.

Selection. — During the packing all broken or other-
wise defective herrings are selected out, to be afterwards
packed by themsleves as “ seconds.” A basket to hold
the “ seconds ” should be set near each packer.

Number. — The number of kippers in a box will, of
course, depend upon the size of the fish. As a rule, the
box should hold from sixty to seventy medium-sized her-
rings, but if the fish were very large, four dozen might fill
the box.

Weight. — Some curers weigh each box, especially for
exportation to the Colonies, in which case 14 lbs. of kippere
are, as a rule, put into each box.

Boxmaking and Marking. — The boxes always have the
curer’s name stencilled on them when they are made; often
the ends are so stencilled before they leave the sawmill. 1 he
wood, it is scarcely necessary to say, is cut at the mill to-

T7ZZZ7

THE ART OF FISHCURING. 43

FIG.I.

FIG. II.

FIG. III.

FIG. IV.

44

THE ART OF FISHC THING.

the exact sizes necessary for the various parts of the boxes.
These are made in the packing loft in spare time, and a wise
curer will aim at having a fair stock made and stored away
about his premises, to be ready for emergencies.

Glasgow Trade. — For a special-customer trade in Glas-
gow, kippers are sometimes cured rather differently from
the fish intended for the English markets. Large herrings
are preferred. They are split in the usual way, but, in-
stead of being merely rinsed through water in a basket,
each fish is taken in hand singly and carefully washed be-
fore being put into the pickle. * The fuel used in the kiln
is mostly white-wood chips and sawdust, the object being
to avoid giving the kippers too much colour. This is a
slower and more expensive process than the ordinary
method of cure, and, consequently, curers do not care to
spend time over it unless they have a fair prospect of higher
prices for the kippers.

Cost. — A kippering establishment such as has been
described, with the addition of a w.c. for each sex,
would cost upwards of £500, perhaps £520 to £550. The
plant required — pickle vats, wash-tub, troughs, packing
stools, racks, tenters, baskets, etc. — would bring the price
up to £600, apart from the price of stock, under which
heading might be classed salt, boxes, and fuel.

The sketches on page 43 show some of the plant re-
ferred to. Fig. I. is a drawing of a rack, T feet long
by 5^ feet high, with five rails 8 inches apart. Fig. II.
gives a representation of a trough, showing the notches at
A, across which the tenters are laid when the herrings are
being tentered. Instead of the double uprights, however,
single strong supports, with notches at the top, are gener-
ally used. Fig. III. shows a packing stool, which explains
itself. Fig. IV. shows the construction of a kiln door.
It is made in two parts, divided horizontally, the upper
half being in one piece. The lower half again is sub-
divided perpendicularly, and hinged so that either half
may be opened at will. This arrangement is necessary to
regulate the ventilation of the kiln. The lower halves are
lined with asbestos sheets, covered with No. 22 Birmingham
wire gauge galvanised sheet-iron, to protect them from the
fire.

Chapter IX.

HOW TO MAKE BLOATERS AND RED HERRINCS,

The bloater trade is more an English than a Scotch indus-
try. Scotch curers, and also English firms doing a smok-
ing business in Scotland, confine their attention principally
to the kippering business. The making of bloaters is,
however, a simpler and less elaborate process than the
making of kippers.

Salting. — If fresh herrings have to be dealt with, the
usual method of cui’ing is to rouse them well with dry
salt upon a brick or pavement floor, turning them over
with a wooden shovel during the process of salting, and
leaving them overnight in the salt. In the morning they
are washed through light pickle, and hung on spits or
tenters.

Hanging. — Spits, it may be as well to say, are rounded
wooden rods, 4 feet long, about the thickness of a man’s
finger, and sharpened at one end. As the wood is apt to
get blunted, tin cones with sharp points are often fixed
upon the points of the spits during the process of spitting.
Occasionally iron rods are used for spits, and these are
much thinner than the wooden ones. To spit herrings,
either for bloaters or reds, enter the sharp end of the spit
below the gill cover of the fish, and push it out through
the mouth. Hang the spits in the kiln — an ordinary
kipper kiln — in the same way as the tenters of kippers.

Pickling. — Curers who make preparations for doing a
large business in bloaters usually have vats or tanks, large
enough to contain great quantities of fish, constructed on
their premises — sometimes below the floors of their stores.
A\ hen herrings are plentiful and cheap, these vats are
filled with roused herrings (usually sea-salted), which are
then floated in pickle, and afterwards drawn out and
smoked at the curers convenience. A regular supply is
thus assured for a considerable time, even although prices
of fresh herrings should rise or the fishing come to an end.

i(i

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

Smoking. — Bloaters are smoked in much the same way
as kippers, but a fire of hard wood billets is usually pre-
ferred to chips and sawdust. The soft fuel gives rather
more colour than is desirable, as bloaters should be dried
rather than coloured in the smoke. Eight hours’ light
smoking will generally make the fish ready for market.

Packing. — Bloaters are packed across the box with
heads all to one side till the tier is complete ; then two or
four herrings with their heads to opposite ends of the box
are laid lengthwise across the tails of the fish in the tier.
The second tier is packed across the box like the first, but
with the heads of the fish to the opposite side of the box —
that is, over the tails of the fish in the lower tier. Herrings
are laid over the tails of the fish again, and so on till the
box is full.

A Small Kiln. — The fishmonger who may be left with
a balance of fresh herrings unsold — or anyone who wishes
to prepare a few dozen bloaters — may, instead of dry-salt-
ing, immerse the herrings in strong clean pickle, and leave'
them in it overnight. In the morning the fish will be
ready for hanging. It should be distinctly understood
that the smoking of fish does not depend upon the size of
the kiln. All round the Scotch coast, for instance, there
may be seen small smoke-houses, in which the fishermen s
wives smoke haddocks to perfection. They are generally
rough wooden buildings, often put together by the fisher-
men themselves, perhaps 4 feet square and 6 feet or 7 feet
high, with bars at opposite sides and suitable intervals
for supporting the spits or tenters. Dwarf walls of stones
or clay inside may protect the wooden walls from the fire.
Even a large cask, with both ends out and a few holes
bored in each quarter for ventilation, may be converted
into a kiln fit to smoke a few dozen bloaters. In this case,
it is necessary to put the fire in an iron vessel, and to spread
a sack or other heavy covering over the cask during the
process of smoking.

Red Herrings.

The trade in red herrings was formerly of much larger
■dimensions than it is now. To realise this, one has only
to look at the large substantial stone and lime buildings
which may be seen in any East Coast of Scotland tovn,
originally built and utilised for the curing of red herrings,
but now either used for some other purpose or standing
vacant.

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

47

Powerful steam fishing vessels that can keep the sea in
almost any weather, and rapid railway and steamer com-
munication between the principal fishing stations and mar-
kets, distribute such a regular supply of fresh fish all over
the kingdom that there is a much smaller demand for
hard-cured goods in Great Britain than there used to be.
A few thousand barrels of herrings are, however, still an-
nually manufactured into “reds,” and the business is
worth the attention of those who have the time and con-
venience for it. A brief description of the method of cure
may, therefore, not be out of place.

Curing.— Rouse the herrings well and pack them into
barrels, with plenty of salt about them, the fish being
packed much flatter than herrings cured for exportation
to the Continent. Herrings intended for “ reds ” are not
gutted, although gutted herrings are occasionally smoked
as an after- thought. After standing on end for two or
three days the barrels should be filled up, tighted, and
laid down. They should he allowed to lie on their sides
for at least ten days — some curers prefer to leave them six
weeks or more— care being taken to keep the herrings well
pickled.

The ciuing might also be done in the close tanks re-
ferred to in the notes on bloater curing. In this case the
herrings should be well roused on a floor, and turned over,
during the process of rousing, with a wooden shovel ; then’
when being put into the tanks, salt should be thrown over
them freely, and strong pickle afterwards poured in till
the herrings are afloat. Curing in barrels is, however, the
more satisfactory method.

Steeping — When the herrings are sufficiently cured
they should be taken out and spitted in the same wav as
doaters, the sharp end of the spit being entered under the

Aff C°iie- S funC i?US ied °1ut tlirou£h tlle mouths of the fish.
After this the herrings have to be steeped in water to ex-
tract some of the salt. The “ steeps ” used are generally
long, shallow vats, about 4 feet wide. Across these the
full spits are spread, the “ steeps ” are filled with water
and the herrings left to soak for a night. In the morning

fresh water 10U d ^ °ff’ and the vats refilled with

aboffiSrAf^r th® lierrings have been soaking for

water If TlT T should be removed from the
uatei It the weather be favourable the spits should bp

spread upon racks m the open air to allow the herrings to

‘ 17 “ »f‘er which they should he hung ”fp In

48

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

tlie kiln to be smoked. Should the weather be wet or
otherwise unfavourable for outside drying, the fish would
have to be hung up in the kiln at once after removal from
the steeps, but in that case they would have to be allowed
to “ drip ” for some time before the fires were applied.

Smoking. — The smoking is usually done nowadays in
modern kipper kilns. The herrings should first get the
smoke from a small billet-wood fire for one night, and then
be allowed to cool all the next day and night. The follow-
ing day and night another billet-wood fire should be ap-
plied, and the fish then allowed to cool again for twenty-
four hours. Afterwards fires of chips and sawdust should
be burned, the fish being smoked and cooled alternately
till the required colour and firmness have been obtained.
It might take from three to six weeks, according to the
requirements of the market for which they were destined,
before the fish were satisfactorily smoked.

Packing. — AVhen red herrings are put into small boxes
they are packed in the same way as bloaters, the tiers being
laid across the box, with four herrings lengthwise oyer the
tails of each tier. To pack into barrels commence with the
heads to the side of the barrel, and pack the herrings on
their sides till the opposite side of the barrel is reached,
when about a third of the bottom of the barrel should be
covered. Commence again with the heads to the side of
the barrel, but so that the tails of the herrings previously
packed will be completely covered, and pack as before till
the opposite side of the barrel is once more reached. Begin
again with the heads to the side of the barrel, and work
across till the tier is finished. Repeat this process tier
after tier till the barrel is full. The red-lierring barrel is
a wooden-booped, dry-ware cask, like the barrels in which
all the smoked haddocks used at one time to be conveyed
to market, and there should be from twenty to twenty-five
fair-sized herrings in each tier. The packing should be
fiat; that is, the herrings should be laid on their sides,
both in barrels and in boxes. It is scarcely necessary to
say that the fish ought to be allowed to cool thoroughly
before being packed, otherwise they will deteiioiate.

Chapter X.

HERRING CURING ON THE CONTINENT.

Dutch Herring Fishing.

The Dutch have the credit of being the pioneers of the
North Sea herring fishing. They caught and cured her-
rings long before the British, and, although their methods
of capture and curing may have improved, they have not
materially altered for centuries. Along with a number of
smart ketches, and a few steam vessels of a larger size
and tonnage than a British steam-drifter, they still send
out a great many of their old-fashioned bom-vessels, or
busses, every summer. These are, however, being out-
classed, and will probably all have disappeared and been
replaced by more modern craft within ten years, judging
by the present rate.

All their curing is done at sea ; they gut and pack the
herrings as soon as they haul them on board, the fish being
kept in ‘ bings on deck until gutted. Spent herrings
are selected by themselves (when plentiful and cheap they
are sometimes thrown overboard), and all others are packed
promiscuously. As soon as a barrel is packed it is “headed
up,” slung below, and stowed away in the hold.

On arriving in Holland the fish are sold by auction,
usually per seventeen “ kantjes.” The “ kantje ” is an
oak barrel with wooden hoops, a little shorter but rather
wider than, and thus almost equal in capacity to, a Scotch
barrel. After being sold, the herrings are either filled up
and sent away in the original packing, or selected and re-
packed into Scotch barrels. The selections are : — Superior,
of which there are from GOO to 650 herrings in a barrel •

St!ei,tennif0cf° 750 ; Prima> 800 to 850 ; and Small Full,
JUU to 1,000. Spent herrings and the few matties the Dutch
get are not repacked, but are always filled up and sent to
market in the original cure. Dutch barrels, with the ori-
ginal packing, are preferred in Western Germany— West-
phalia, Rhineland, etc., but in the middle and the eastern

5

50

THE ART OK FISHCTJ RING .

parts of Germany Scotch barrels are most in favour. Out
of seventeen “ kantjes ” you get thirteen Scotch barrels
after repacking. Seventeen “ kantjes,” sea-packed, are
calculated to contain a last of herrings.

The “ zinkband ” barrel h as been growing in popularity
in Holland. It is an oak cask, bound with galvanised iron
hoops, strong enough to be returned and filled repeatedly.
The Germans, who in their methods of fishing and curing
have followed closely in the footsteps of the Dutch, use a
similar iron-hooped cask, both at sea and on shore. They
pack promiscuously at sea, but select and repack all their
herrings on shore, making similar selections to those of
the Dutch.

Swedish Herring Fishing.

Seine Net Fishing. — The Swedes catch most of their
herrings in seine nets. These are strong nets, with narrow
meshes, which are worked by twelve or fourteen men with
two skiffs, the method of fishing being pretty much the
same as seine net fishing in the Firth of Clyde. The net
is run out in a circle, the ends are brought together, and
the lowTer rope is hauled up, thus enclosing any herrings
that may have been surrounded by the net. As the net
is hauled aboard one of the boats, the herrings are brought
up alongside until they can be scooped up with baskets.
The skiffs used are broad, open, strongly-built boats, such
as may be seen on board the Swedish vessels which pro-
secute the long line fishing off the Shetlands during the
summer months. The quantity of herrings enclosed by
these seine nets is often greater than the pair of skiffs can
carry. Generally, however, there are cruising in the
vicinity small carrying vessels known as “ yachts,” whose
crews are on the outlook for employment, and the her-
rings are transferred to these yachts and taken ashore to
market. When a loaded yacht is seen approaching, the
buyers frequently go out in small steam launches to meet
it, and buy the herrings before they are landed. The
Swedish seine net fishing was formerly confined to the Skiir-
garden, a piece of water sheltered by a stretch of islands
off Marstrand and neighbourhood ; but now it is mostly
carried on outside these islands, though at no great dis-
tance off. The herrings caught in the seine net are mostly
spent.

Drift Net Fishing. — A few of the Swedish fishermen
still follow the drift net fishing, and although working in

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

51

small open boats, with only five nets in each boat, they
are not afraid to go long distances to sea. The drift net
used in Sweden resembles the British net, and is often of
British manufacture. Unlike the seiners, the drift net
fishers catch mostly full herrings.

The Swedish fishing generally lasts from December till
the beginning of March, but depends very much on the
condition of the weather. The presence of ice might bring
the season to a premature close. Fishermen prefer to go
out and shoot their nets in the early morning and haul
after sunrise.

Fresh Herring Trade.— Most of the Swedish herrings
are sent fresh to Germany, the principal markets being
Altona, Hamburg, Liibeek, Kiel, and Stettin. They are
exported in boxes that contain two hectolitres, or about
half a cran of herrings, apart from the ice that is packed
along with them.

Herring Curing. — The curing is done after the Scotch
method, which was introduced by Scotch firms who went
across and carried on business in Sweden for a number of
years. The Swedish barrels are made exactly like the
Scotch. Most of them are manufactured at Udvalla Barrel
Factory. The wood is the same kind and quality as is
used in Scotland, and the price of the barrel may be quoted
at 2^ kroner, or scarcely 3s.

As the herrings are nearly all spent, the salting has
of necessity to be very light. Spanish salt is mostly used,
both for rousing and packing.

The cured herrings go mostly to Libau. The Swedes
have lost their hold of the German markets, owing to the
irregularity of the fishing. Buyers have so often had to
go elsewhere for their supplies, owing to the failure of the
Swedish fishing, that they have ceased to depend upon the
Swedish cure.

Norwegian Herring Fishing.

In Norway the herrings are mostly caught in a net
known as the “ Landvade,” which is a big net, one end of
which is fastened to the shore and the rest drawn round
until it encloses a fjord or bay. Large shoals are often
thus enclosed. Occasionally a shoal makes a movement
seaward and bursts the net, notwithstanding the fact that
it is made of specially strong material. More often,
however, the herrings are kept alive in the fjord inside
the net for weeks, or even months, the fishermen taking

52

THE ART OF FISHCURINU.

out the quantity required from time to time. Of recent
years the Norwegians have been trying to develop a deep-
sea herring fishery in the summer and autumn. The fjord
fishing comes on later in the year, like the Scotch “ loch ”
fishing.

Fresh Herring Trade. — A great many of the Nor-
wegian winter herrings are sent fresh to Huli and Billings-
gate, packed in ice in boxes similar to those in which the
Swedish herrings are sent to Germany. An extensive
kipper trade is done in these Norwegian herrings by British
firms.

Curing. — An important pickling trade is done in Nor-
way. This curing is carried on under Government super-
vision, as in Scotland, the barrel having to be a standard
size, with either wooden or iron hoops. Norwegian barrels
are fully a gallon smaller than the Scotch.

Gutting. — The gut is not so thoroughly taken out by
the Norwegians as it is done in Scotland; the throats of
the herrings are merely cut with a small pair of scissors,
so that the fish are bled rather than gutted.

Packing. — The packing is also different, being loose
and flat, and the barrels are not so well filled as the Scotch,
the Norwegian cured herrings being left almost floating
in the pickle. The herrings contain more fat than milt
or roe.

Selection. — The following marks are put upon the
Norwegian barrels: — M., which denotes the smallest size;
K., similar to, or a little larger than, the Scotch mattie ;
K.Iv., similar in size to a good matfull ; and K.K.K., which
is the mark for herrings at least as large as the Scotch
full.

There is a great outlet in Germany for these Norwegian
herrings.

Chapter XI.

PILCHARD CURING.

Pilchard fishing is, in some respects, the most interesting
and picturesque of all our British fisheries. The method
of capture has been graphically described by Couch in his
“ British Pishes,” and by other writers. The Cornish
coast is the chief seat of the fishery, and the fishing season
is the autumn and early winter. Drift nets are used, to
some extent, in the open sea, but the pilchard seine is the
principal means of capture. It is mostly used near the
shore. Like other surface fishes, the approach of a shoal
of pilchard can generally be easily discerned by experi-
enced fishermen. Watchmen or “ huers ” are, therefore,
placed at points of vantage along the coast to watch for
signs of the approach of the fish, and give intimation to the
rest of the fishermen. A change in the colour of the water
or the leaping of the fish on the surface may indicate the
dilection in which the shoal is moving. The object of the
fishermen is to intercept and surround the fish with their
seine nets, and in this they can be materially assisted by a
skilled huer. The pilchards having been successfully sur-
rounded, the lower rope of the net is gathered up in such a
way as to enclose the fish, which are then lifted out of the
water by means of baskets and loaded into the boats.
W hen the catch has been secured, the fishermen return to
port and run their boats upon the beach. As the tide ebbs
he fish are scooped up and poured over the side into box
hand-barrows called “ gurries,” in which they are carried
UP the beach by labourers and emptied out above high-
water mark. Here the fishermen’s families— old and
young, male and female alike — generally turn out to help
the crews to count the pilchards into thousands. The fish
are lifted in fours, and 83 fours are counted to the hundred
at some ports only 30), so there are really 1320 fish in a
thousand pilchards. An old man is usually told off to

54

THE ART OF EISHCl'RIN'G.

keep tally, a mark being made for every hundred ; so
“ Stroke, grandpa,” is a common call on such occasions.

When the fish are all counted, they are sold by public
auction, 15s. a thousand being reckoned a fair price for
them. The buyer then removes them to his curing
premises, where they are first well roused with salt. This
is done beside the tank in which they are to be cured. The
rousing is done upon a floor. Two men turn the fish over
with shovels, and a third throws salt on them — 2nd Liver-
pool or Spanish salt. When they are properly roused, the
pilchards are shovelled into the tanks, which are filled
quite full, and a layer of salt is spread over the top. They
are allowed to lie in these tanks, which are generally large
concrete structures, for three weeks. Being then con-
sidered sufficiently cured, they are taken out in baskets, to
allow the pickle to drain from them. Pilchards are not
gutted like herrings. They are simply taken from the
pickle and packed into dry casks by women. The packing
is flat, and no salt is laid between the tiers. Each cask,
when full, is placed under a screw press and subjected to
pressure to extract the oil from the fish, the oil escaping
through the interstices in the sides and ends of the cask.
Pilchards are very fat, and if the oil were left in them they
would deteriorate. After undergoing the first pressure
the casks have to be filled up, when they are once more put
under the press and then headed up for exportation, lhe
oil, as it escapes from the cask, is conveyed to a retaining
tank, and it is afterwards filtered before being sold. Most
of the cured pilchards are sent by direct steamer from
Newlyn to Genoa, where they find a ready market.

For home use pilchards are frequently cured in pickle,
like herrings, in which case it is advisable to gut them, to
prevent deterioration.

Chapter XII.

MACKEREL CURING.

For curing purposes, only mackerel that are quite fresh
should be used, and they should be split, washed, and
salted as soon after being landed as possible. Overday s
mackerel can never be made into a first-class cured article.

In taking delivery of mackerel care should he taken to
have the fish well spread out, so that there shall not he
too much weight pressing upon the lower fish. If at all
possible, they should he taken straight from the boat in-
side a shed, especially if the weather be warm, as mackerel
spoil very readily.

As the appearance of the fish when finally cured de-
pends greatly upon the splitting, too much attention can-
not he given to this important part of the work. To begin
with, the knives should he kept in the best of order — as
sharp and clean as it is possible to make them. The
splitting should be done on a bench of a convenient height
to suit the workers — a kippering bench, for instance.
Mackerel are split down the back, as close to the bone as
possible, and with one stroke of the knife. The fish is laid
with its head away from the splitter, who commences at the
snout, and runs the knife down above the bone to the tail.
The gills and intestines are then removed. After this the
fish is ploughed, or “ reamed ” — that is, a deep slit is made
in the thick part of the fish on each side. A vat or tub
of clean water should be set within reach, either at the
splitter’s side or at the opposite side of the bench ; and each
fish should be dropped into the water after it is “ reamed.”
Ragged or soft fish should be put aside in the splitting.
Some curers prefer to leave the “reaming” of their
mackerel until after the mackerel have been steeped in
water for some time.

In washing the fish great care ought to be taken to have
all traces of blood removed, especially from the bone.
Some curers use small brushes for this purpose ; others

5G

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

simply use their hands. Every fish should be carefully
handled, and in lifting a split mackerel before the process
of cure is completed, it is best to put the hand below the
fish, and thus lift without gripping it. The mackerel is
so delicate that great care must be taken that the “ flesh ”
is not broken in handling, otherwise it will have a ragged
look when cured. Should bones protrude, they should be
cut or plucked oft'. The black skin which lines the
stomach, and which is always scrubbed clean off haddocks,
cod, etc., when cured, must on no account be broken in
the case of the mackerel. As each fish is washed it should
be dropped into another vessel of clean water. If possible, -
a steady stream of water should be allowed to flow through
this vessel ; failing which, at least three changes of water
would be necessary. In the first water the fish should not
be allowed to remain longer than a quarter of an hour. So
much blood flows from the fish that the water soon becomes
dirty, and would discolour them if they were left too long
in it. They might be left a little longer in the second
water, and in the third they might be left for an hour or
longer.

After a short immersion in this second water, the fish
should be again carefully lifted, laid upon a clean bench,
and covered with loose salt before packing.

As in herring curing, the barrels should first be well
soaked with clean water, to ensure tightness and to aid the
process of curing. Only new barrels should be used for
mackerel curing, and the barrels should be of the best
material and workmanship. Barrels which have contained
salt beef or have a taint of saltpetre are specially objec-
tionable. Birch barrels are generally preferred, but lately
good Swedish spruce has been finding favour with Irish
curers. In either case, the best method of hooping is the
same — a stout iron hoop on each end, and four wooden
hoops on each quarter. Either the best or second quality
of fishery salt may be used. Some curers grind the salt
fine before using it. The Norwegians prefer Prepani salt
on the ground that it makes the cleanest cure.

In packing first cover the bottom of the banel with
salt, then lay the first tier of fish, the heads of the mackerel
being put to the sides of the barrel and the skin dow n-
wards. When the first tier is laid cover with salt. If
there is any vacancy in the centre of the barrel where the
tails of the mackerel meet, a single fish, or two if neces-
sary, should be laid to keep the packing level. Cover
these with salt, and proceed with the second tier, and so

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

57

on till tlie barrel is filled. There is thus no crossing of
tiers, as in the case of herrings. If the fish are fat, a
barrel of salt may be required to cure three barrels of
mackerel ; otherwise that quantity of salt might suffice for
four barrels of fish. The reason for the heavy salting is
that without it the mackerel would stick together, and, as
it would be impossible to separate them without tearing
the fish, they would be unsaleable. The barrel should be
filled to the croze with fish, and then filled up with strong,
clear pickle. Some curers leave their barrels standing
on end until the process of cure is complete— i.e., until the
mackerel have had time to assimilate the salt and harden
and set. It is better, however, as soon as the day's packing
is done to put the ends in, tighten the barrels, and lay
them on their sides. The time required for the process of
curing is from ten to twelve days. During this period the
barrels should be frequently examined — a tap on the bilge
with an adze or hammer will be enough— to make sure
that none of them is leaking. Should the fish be allowed
to lie dry they will become soft and discoloured.

In preparing the mackerel for shipment or for market,
they have to be emptied out of the barrels, washed in
pickle, and selected according to a uniform size and weight
into lots of 210 lb. to 215 lb. weight each, which should
give the required weight of 200 lb. on arrival at the mar-
ket. The fish should, of course, have been fairly well
selected during the first packing ; and, if so, the second
selection will give little trouble. In the final packing,
however, care must be taken to lay aside soft, ragged, or
discoloured fish. The process of packing is the same as
before, but a little less salt might be used, provided that
the fish are moderately well covered. The top three tiers
should be packed with the skin up, and should be a fair
and honest sample of the rest of the contents of the barrel.
There is no such thing as hard filling of the barrels, as is
done in herring curing. The requisite weight of 200 lb.
net scarcely fills an ordinary Scotch barrel. The packing
finished, the barrels should be at once “ tighted,” laid on
their sides, and filled with clear, strong pickle.

If these instructions are carefully attended to the re-
sults should be very satisfactory. Mackerel so’ treated
should turn out white, strong, well-cured fish.

Before shipment care should be taken that the barrels
are full to the bung with pickle, and the hoops well
tightened.

Each barrel sent to America should be branded with

58

THE ART OE FISHCUHING.

the curer’s or owner’s name, the uet weight, and the num-
ber of fish contained in it, otherwise it will not be admis-
sible for entry into the United States. Barrels containing
from 300 to 350 Irish mackerel are usually most favoured
by American buyers. For good, well-cured autumn fish,
£2 or more per barrel may be reasonably expected.

Norwegian mackerel have by far the best name in the
American markets, and, as a rule, bring much higher
prices than British-cured fish. Norwegian mackerel are
generally caught by hook and line, and thus taken on
board alive. As soon as they are taken on board the boat
they are split and put into water. The bleeding is thus
perfect, and little or no washing is required, while the fish
is whiter and firmer than if the splitting were left until
the fish were brought to land. In the selection and sizing,
again, the Norwegians are very careful, rigidly laying aside
every fish that is in the least ragged or thin. Irish carers
have a good deal to learn on these points. With net-
caught fish it is impossible to split the fish as soon as they
are caught, but strict attention to the sizing, so as to have
the desired numbers in the barrels, and the laying aside
of all thin or otherwise objectionable fish, would materially
raise the standard of cure and bring better prices.

Chapter XIII.

COD CURING.

Bleeding the Fish. — Cod which are destined for the
fresh market should be killed as soon as caught by a blow
on the back of the head. This makes them take on the
stiffness of death at once, and preserves their fresh appear-
ance, which would otherwise be spoiled, to some extent,
by their death struggles. The fish should then be laid on
shelves or in shallow boxes, instead of being thrown in a
heap in the hold, as is often done in sailing liners. Cod
that are likely to be bought for curing should be treated
differently. The first process in the curing of cod should
be the proper bleeding of the fish, and this can be best done
at sea by the fishermen. When fewer cod were sent to
market fresh, and curing was universal, it was a common
practice to cut the throats of the fish at sea, in order to
bleed them properly. ith the extension of the railway
system throughout the country, and a better demand for
fresh fish, this practice rapidly fell into disuse, as it de-
tracted from the appearance of the fish. But in these
days, when cod curers are depending more and more upon
trawlers for their supplies, the importance of bleeding the
fish at sea cannot be too strongly impressed upon fisher-
men. I he fish are usually put into ice as soon as thev are
taken from the net, and if, as generally happens, they are
caught on the distant fishing grounds, they may have to
lie for days, perhaps for weeks, in ice before they reach
the market. If so, the blood will be so thoroughlv con-
gealed in the bones of the fish that it will be next to im-
possible to extract it thoroughly. Such fish will never
make a first-class article when cured; their “ black lugs ”
and general discolouration will too plainly show their
quality, and indicate the condition in which the fish were
when they came into the carer’s hands. There is, how-
ever, no necessity for reverting to the obsolete and ob-

<50

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

jectionable practice of cutting the throats of the fish. Cod
may be very easily and satisfactorily bled when newly
caught by cutting one fold of the gill on each side of the
head. No doubt it would mean a little extra trouble, but
the fish would be so much improved by it that their market
value would eventually be increased, to the manifest ad-
vantage of the fishermen.

Heading ” the Fish. — The next process is the
“ heading ” — or, rather, the beheading — of the cod. This
should be done with a heavy knife with a long, straight
blade, the fish being laid over a small trestle or the edge
of a tub during the operation. The operator should lift
the fish with his left hand, grasping it about the side of
the head, or over the mouth, and laying its neck over the
trestle, with the throat up. The gili covers will then open
and allow the knife to be inserted easily between the gills
and the “ lugs or laps of the fish. Instead of cutting
straight down, however, the operator should turn his right
hand so as to curve the blade under the head, and take
off the scalp of the fish. If correctlv done, the result will
be as shown in Fig. 1. Thus the bones of the lugs and

shoulders will be left intact, and the muscles of the neck
will be left to strengthen the fish when afterwards split,
to say nothing of the slight saving in weight of fish. This,
though of no great account in the case of a single cod,
would mean something considerable upon a season’s cure,
and is worthy of a curer’s attention. If cut straight across,
the bones are apt to protrude and the fish to have a ragged,
broken appearance when split.

The “ heading” of cod should be done by pressure of
the knife. If hacking is resorted to, the fish will suffer
in appearance as well as lose in weight.

Opening and Gutting. — The opening and gutting
should be done with a much smaller knife; an ordinary

HIE ART OF FISHCUREN'G.

61

sheath knife suits very well. The fish should he laid on
its side upon a bench or table, its shoulders being towards
the worker and its throat towards his right hand. Taking
hold of the “ lugs ” of the fish with his left hand, the
operator should insert the knife at the throat and run it
down along the belly to the anal fin, the thumb and fingers
of the left hand following the blade and steadying the fish
during the operation. The opening should be done by one
forward sweep of the knife, and not by repeated cuts. Care
should be taken, too, not to run the knife deeper down than
is actually necessary to open the fish. There is no neces-
sity for liberating the contents of the stomach and scatter-
ing them over the bench ; nor, in the spring season, for
inangling a good marketable roe. After the opening, the
liver should first be removed with the left hand and placed
in a proper receptacle. Then the viscera should be re-
moved, the long gut being first cut away close to the vent,
and then the whole drawn up towards the shoulders with
the left hand, and where adhering separated with the knife.
A barrel for the offal should, of course, be within easy
reach, preferably at the worker's left hand, and partly
under the bench. When the roes are in season, care should
be taken not to cut or break them, First the gland lead-
ing to the vent should he cut as close to the fish as possible,
then the roe gently lifted with the left hand, and the fila-
ments at the ends cut, not broken away. They should
not be cut too close to the roe.

Knives. — It is scarcely necessary to say that a careful
purer will provide good knives and see that they are kept
m proper order. If the quality and condition of the knives
aie v hat they should be, the work will be better and more
expeditiously done than with indifferent and badly kept
tools. 1'ig. 2 shows a sketch of a useful heading "knife.

Fig. 2

Sjn 1S. 13 in; lo*S by in. at the broadest part; the

near the h^ ^ 1§ fln'ee-sixteenths of an inch thick
neai the handle, one-eighth thick at the centre, and sradu-
ally thinner towards the point. The handle should^” the
shaPe as ln Fl& 3- wbich shows a favourite form of

THE ART OF FISIICURING.

02

F,g.3.

a splitting knife. The blade of this knife should not be
less than 10 in. long by 2£ in. to 2£ in. broad at the
shoulder; but some curers prefer 11 in. to 12 in. in length,
with breadth in proportion, and thickness as given for Fig.
2. Good cast-steel knives of the above description may be
had at moderate prices, but a better blade is a composition
of steel and iron welded by hand. It may be described
as a ribbon of best German steel welded between two folds
of Lowmoor iron. Men who have used this knife almost
invariably prefer it to all others.

Chapter XIV.

HOW TO PICKLE COD FOR LENT.

Curers who lay themselves out for the pickling of cod for
Lent, particularly for the Ash Wednesday and Good Fri-
day markets, usually make their preparations pretty early
in the winter, so as to be ready to take advantage of any
chance of cheap fish that may come in their way. If once
properly cured, cod will keep in barrels for weeks, or even
months, so long as they are properly kept in pickle. On
the other hand, if a curer waits till near Lent before com-
mencing to buy, there is always the risk that prices may
be so high as to be prohibitory for curing.

Plant, etc. — The requisites for this trade are an or-
dinary fish-house, with bench and vats, a supply of good
fishery salt (second Liverpool generally preferred), and a
stock of cod barrels, which are a little smaller than or-
dinary herring barrels. Offal barrels, carrying baskets,
scrubbing brushes, and a set of good knives are, of course,
indispensable.

V ater. The water supply is a most important con-
sideration, as upon its purity the condition and appearance
of the fish when finally cured will largely depend. Spring
water containing a moderate solution of lime will usually
gne very satisfactory results, but brown, mossy water is
apt to leave a stain on the fish that will detract from their
value when offered for sale. So well are some curers
aware °f this that they will cart water in barrels consider-
able distances from suitable wells rather than use the pub-
lic water supply, if the latter does not answer their
requirements.

Gc riiNG, etc. The cod should be headed and gutted as
already described, and then put into clean water. They
may be washed and taken out of this water either immedi-
ately or after about an hour’s immersion; but they should
not be left too long in it.

(>4

THE ART OF FISIICURING.

Splitting. — The splitting cannot be too carefully and
neatly done. So much depends upon the appearance of
pickled cod when offered for sale that even greater care is
required in handling them than is necessary with fish that
are to be dried. Different curers’ methods of splitting
often vary in certain details; but the following is the
method followed by some successful North Country curers :
The gutted fish should be laid on the bench with its tail
towards the splitter, who should take hold of the upper
lug of the fish with his left hand, and with his right hand
enter the knife at the vent and draw it down above the bone
to the root of the tail. He should then give the fish a half-
turn— its tail outwards and its shoulders inwards till its
back is turned towards him — and, raising the lug with
his left hand, split the fish carefully from the bone from
the shoulder downwards, leaving as little fish on the bone
as possible, and at the same time trying to bring the fish
away perfectly clean and smooth. He should next give
the now split fish another half-turn, so that its shoulders
will be towards and its tail away from him. Then, steady-
ing the fish with his left hand, he should carefully run
the knife down under the bone so as to separate it from the
fish, and then cut the bone off about twenty or twenty-two
joints from the tail. In doing this he should cut through
two joints at once, so as to leave the appearance of the
figure 8 on the end of the remaining bone. The outer ends
of the rib bones, if still adhering to the fish, should be
carefully cut, not torn away.

To make sure that the remaining bone will be properly
bled, it should be pierced with the knife near the tail; or,
if preferred, it may be split down for two or three inches
from the point of separation.

Cleaning. — The black lining of the stomach should
next be removed, and any rags of fish or skin which may
be visible should be carefully cut away. The fish should
then be washed thoroughly, a hand brush being used both
inside and outside. The bone should receive special atten-
tion, to make sure that the blood is thoroughly removed.

Pressing. — After washing, some curers press the fish
for a couple of hours. This may be done very easily by
laying the fish on a bench with boards and weights above
them, the object being to drain off the water and any re-
maining blood from the fish. Other curers, again, object
to pressure being applied, on the ground that it makes the
fish look thin.

Salting. — The fish should then be salted into vats.

THE ART OF FISHCTJRING.

65

Good second fishery Liverpool salt is usually considered
best for this purpose ; but if a soft cure is desired, Spanish
salt is sometimes preferred. In either case the fish should
be completely covered with salt, and the salting should be
regular, otherwise the fish are apt to have a spotted appear-
ance when cured. The actual quantity of salt necessary
will, however, depend to some extent upon the length of
time that the fish are likely to be kept before being sent
to market, and this can only be.learned thoroughly by prac-
tical experience. Cod which are to be kept for some time
should be salted more heavily than fish that are to be dis-
posed of at once. Three-quarters of a hundredweight of
salt may be considered sufficient to cure a barrel of cod.

In salting, the fish should be laid in pairs, face to face,
just as kippers are packed. If laid otherwise, there is
always a risk that the inside of one fish may be discoloured
through contact with the pigment or natural colouring-
matter of the skin of the fish next to it. Extra salt should
be added to the top tier; and, as the fish make their own
pickle, weights should be put on them to keep them down.

Drawing, Washing, and Paring. — After lying in the
curing-vat for not less than forty-eight hours, the fish
should be drawn out of the pickle. During this process
they should be well washed, either in their own or in fresh-
made pickle. As each fish is washed it should be laid on
the bench in such a position that the pickle will drain
from it. After they are washed, the fish should be taken
one by one and carefully 'pared. Tbe anal fins should be
neatly cut away, and any rags of fish or skin that may
have been left about the sides or shoulders should be pared
off, so as to leave the fish perfectly clean and well trimmed.

Selection. — As the fish are trimmed they should be
assorted into two or three different sizes, each selection to
be afterwards packed into barrels by themselves. A note of
the number in each barrel should be kept, and marked on
the barrel.

Packing into Barrels. — If they are obtainable, birch
or other hard-wood barrels are preferable to fir. The latter
may impart a flavour of the wood to the fish ; the former
will not. The packer should lift and handle the fish care-
fully, so as not to damage them. The best way is to grasp
the tail of the fish with the right hand and the shoulder
with the left, the skin of the fish being downwards. The
fish will thus fall into a partial fold and allow of its being
put inside the barrel easilv. The bone of the fish should
be laid next the side of fhe barrel. Two medium-sized

6

(JO

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

fish will make a tier, laid head and tail alternately, as in
the drawing above, but overlapping when necessary. A
large fish might occupy the whole circumference of the
cask. With the exception of the upper tier, which should
be laid back up, the fish may nmv.be all packed with the
skin downwards, as with the two washings the slime and
pigment should be thoroughly removed from the skin.

Salting. — If the fish are destined for immediate con-
sumption, no salt will be required between the tiers, 'pro-
vided they are already well cured. This can, of course,
only be known by the touch of an experienced curer, who
will be able to tell by the firmness of the fish. As a general
rule, however, a light sprinkling of salt is advisable.

The barrels should be filled quite full and the ends
pressed in and “ tighted,” the barrels tiered on their sides
and bored on the bilge.

Pickling. — Pickle to put into the barrels should be
made a few days beforehand. As described in Chapter
IV., pickle is made by dissolving salt in clean water until
a potato will float, or until a salimeter immersed in it will re-
gister about 25 deg. As for the washing of the fish, so for the
making of the pickle — the clearer and purer the water the

the art of fishcuring.

GT

better will the cure be. But before being used, the pickle
should be strained once or oftener through flannel to make
it perfectly clean and free from sediment, after which the
barrels should be filled with it to the bung and kept so.

Repacking. — Should they have to lie on hand for a few
weeks, a careful curer will, before sending his fish to mar-
ket, open the barrels, take out the fish, and, if necessary,
wash and trim them again. After repacking, new pickle
should be put into the barrels.

The Small Dealer.— Although the foregoing notes
are intended as a description of the working ol a fair-sized
business, a small dealer who might be left with some fresh
cod unsold should easily manage to cure them in pickle at
very little cost by following the above instructions. A
couple of good-sized tubs, a clean, tight barrel, and 1 cut.
of fishery salt would be sufficient stock to start with.

When salting the fish in the tubs it would not be ad-
visable to put one day’s fish down upon the top of the
previous day’s cure. Each day’s fish should be salted in
a tub or tank by themselves. If the dealer had an outlet
for them, his fish would be ready for market after forty-
eight hours’ cure — or even twenty-four hours if they were
going into immediate consumption. If not, they might,
after being drawn, washed, and pared, be packed into the
same barrel, one day’s fish on the top of the other, as they
became “ due ” or ready. A little salt would have to be
sprinkled betiveen the tiers, clean pickle sufficient to cover
the fish would have to be poured into the barrel, and
weights would have to be laid on the top tier to keep all
the fish immersed until the barrel was full and the end
put into it.

Chapter XY.

TO CURE COD FOR DRYINC.

Although it is desirable that fish intended for curing
should be bled as soon as caught, and that they should be
headed and gutted as soon after being landed as possible,
some curers object to splitting what are known as “ live ”
fish (that is, fish landed the day they are caught), especi-
ally in winter. After heading and gutting they prefer
to leave such fish spread out upon a pavement floor for a
night or longer to let them “ shoot the gug,” as it is termed
— that is, to throw off the slime from the skin. Newly
caught fish are difficult to split ; the bone is not easily ex-
tracted, and the extra effort required to remove it is apt to
mangle the fish when the work is hurriedly done. It is
also difficult to remove the slime, which may thus be cured
along with the fish, with unpleasant results.

Other curers, again, hold to the opinion that the sooner
the fish are put into cure the better, and that any such
disadvantages as those enumerated above are more than
counterbalanced by having the fish cured in perfect con-
dition. As a matter of fact, however, regarding a good
proportion of the fish which go into cure at the principal
ports, the complaint often is that they ase not fresh
eftough.

Heading, etc. — The process of heading and gutting cod
was fully described in Chapter XIII. I or dry-curing it
is even more necessary than for curing in pickle that care
should be taken to scalp the fish properly when taking oft
their heads. xYs dry fish will have to be oftener handled,
both in the process of curing and afterwards, until they
finally reach the consumers’ hands, there is so much the
more "risk of their being broken and damaged. If the
muscles of the neck and shoulders are left intact, and the
lug bones kept well covered, the fish are much strongei
and less likely to be damaged in the handling than when
the neck is cut straight through. Ling are more difficult

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

69

to “ head ” than cod ; but after the throat is cut a jerk with
the left hand will usually break the neck over the trestle,
and allow the knife to go through without having to resort
to hacking, which disfigures the fish.

As in handling large quantities of fish, first on the
wharf or in the market, and then carting them to the cur-
ing-house, it is scarcely possible to keep them quite clean,
a slight rinsing through water is advisable at this stage.
This will keep the splitters’ bench clean, and will save
their knives from being blunted by sand, which might
otherwise be lifted with the fish.

Splitting. — The splitting is best done upon an open
bench. Often it is done in the open air, but a fish-house
is preferable. The latter affords protection from sun and
rain, both of which have a deleterious effect upon
fresh fish, and it can be lighted artificially when required.
For drying purposes larger quantities of fish have usually
to be dealt with by the splitters than for pickling in barrels,
hence speed in handling them is imperative. In this case
there is no time to trim and pare with the knife ; rapid and
dexterous work is what is wanted. Here, again, as in
preparing pickled cod for Lent, different curers’ methods
occasionally vary in certain details, but they follow the
same general lines. The fish is laid on its side, with its
tail towards the splitter, who grasps its upper lug with his
left hand, then with his right hand enters the knife at
the shoulder and runs it down above the bone to near the
tail. The fish should not be split through to the skin of
the back, as is sometimes done. At least half an inch of
fish should be left, otherwise the fish will be frail and
easily broken in the handling. To extract the bone, cod
should be turned round and the knife run neatly along
under the bone ; then, with the blade pointing in a slant-
ing direction towards the tail, the bone should be struck
below the blood cavity, cutting through two joints at once.
Grasping the cut end of the bone, the splitter should again
run the knife along under the bone to detach it from the
fish. In the case of a ling, the bone might be jiulled away
" ^h the left hand without applying the knife after it is
cut through. The part of the bone left in the fish should
be piicked near the tail with the knife to let the blood
escape. Curers usually object to splitting down the blood
bone of a fish that is to be dried, on the ground that it
makes the fish too fragile.

Washing.- At the opposite side of the bench from the
splitters there should be a trough full of clean, fresh water,

TO

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

into which the fish should be slid one by one as they are
split. This trough should have sloping sides, to facilitate
the operation of washing. The blood should be thoroughly
scrubbed from the bone, the black lining carefully removed
from the inside of the fish, and the slime washed as clean
off the skin and fins as possible.

Dripping. — After being washed, the fish should be laid
upon gratings, to let the water or any remaining blood
drain from them until the curer is ready to salt them. If,
for any reason, the curer is unable to salt the fish into vats
till the following day, a little dry salt should be powdered
over them when they are being laid out upon the gratings.

Salting. — The salting should be done in vats or tanks,
larger or smaller according to the extent of the curer’s
business. A common size is 6 ft. long by ft. wide by
3 ft. deep; but to accommodate big ling, one or two vats
of 8 ft. in length would be found useful. When put into
salt the fish should be laid perfectly flat, because whatever
shape they take in the vats they are likely to retain after-
wards. For this reason, when circular vats are used, the
fish have to be laid with their shoulders to the sides of the
vat, and their tails pointing inwards towards the centre.
They should be pretty heavily salted, and left for four or
five days if Liverpool salt is used, or a day longer if it is
Spanish salt. Perhaps 4-5 lb. of salt to cure 1 cwt. of dry
fish might be taken as a fair average, but skill in salting
can only be attained by experience. The salting may,
however, be fairly accurately tested when the fish are
drawn from the vats. A little salt should then be found
remaining, all through the vat, between the layers of fish..
If, however, say, half a barrel of salt were left in a 6-ft.
vat after the fish had been drawn from it, the inference
would be that more salt had been used than was necessary
to cure the fish. The fish should be filled, or rather
heaped, above the level of the top of the vat, and it is ad-
visable to turn the fish of the top tier back up. In a
couple of days they will be floating in their own pickle,
when stones should be placed upon them to keep them
immersed. If the vats are standing in the open air, they
should be fitted with roof-shaped covers to shelter them
from the sun and rain, fresh water being specially
objectionable.

Drawing from the Vats. — After the fish have been
in the vats from four to six days they may be drawn out.
All fish vats should have bungholes in them; but it is not
wise to run otf all the pickle before drawing the fish. By

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

71

the dissolution of the salt, a certain amount of chalky sedi-
ment is usually deposited upon the fish, and this should
be washed off in the pickle as the fish are drawn from it.

It seldom happens that a curer is ready to commence drying
his fish immediately after they are taken from the pickle,
so the fish are usually built into steeples, with a sprinkling
of dry salt between ‘the tiers. In these piles they might
be kept for two or three months if necessary ; but if so they
should be turned over again and sprinkled with more salt.

Dry Salting. — When fish are cured aboard vessels
—for instance, at the deep-sea fishing off Iceland — pickle
vats are not available, and the fish have to be dry salted.
For tliis purpose “ lockers are fitted up in the sides of
the vessels, and into these the fish are laid and salted in
the same way as into vats. More salt must be used in this
case, however, and care has to be taken to spread it freely
round the sides of the lockers, as well as over the fish, otliei-
wise the exposed parts of the fish may be imperfectly cured.
After lying for about a fortnight the fish should be turned
over and re-salted.

In shore curing, also, dry salting has sometimes to be
resorted to in an emergency; for instance, in the event of
a heavy fishing, when a curer’s vats may be all full. The
difficulty in this case is to get the exposed parts of the fish
salted so as to be thoroughly cured, and advantage should be
taken of the angle of a wall or any temporary partition that
can be fixed up, to help to keep in the salt, which should
be applied unsparingly.

The sketch on the next page shows the ground plan
of a cod-curing house 50 ft. long by 25 ft. wide, with walls
8 ft. high. A building of this size has accommodation for
curing a considerable quantity of fish ; for a small business
a much smaller place would suffice. The floor should be
of concrete or pavement strong enough to bear the weight
of a loaded cart, and a slight slope from the back towards
the front would help to keep the place dry. It should be
well drained and have a plentiful supply of water, with a
rubber hose long enough to reach all round the building.
If there were no loft above, the place would be best lighted
by skylight windows. If there were a loft the fish-house
below would have to be well supplied with windows on both
sides. Gas, for night work, should be led along the centre
of the rafters.

A large doorway through which the fresh fish would be
brought in is shown at (1), and at (2) the fish would be laid
out ready for the commencement of operations. At (X)

GROUND PLAN OF A COD-CURING HOUSE.

50 ft- long by 25 ft. wide, with walls 8 ft. high.

11.

Cl RED FISH drawn from vats
and laid in dry salt in steeples.

10.

10.

10.

f

12. DOORWAY.

(.RATINGS, FOR DRIPPING
FISH.

8.

WASHING TROUGH.

7.

SPUTTERS’ BENCH.

TROUGH of WATER
to rinse fish through.

5.

GUTTED FISH.

BENCH for OPENING and
GUTTING FISH ON.

HEADED FISH.

TRESTLES or TUBS,
for heading hsh.

X

2.

FISH, AS LANDED.

1. GATEWAY.

11.

CURED FISH drawn fromv
and laid in dry salt in steepl :

10.

—

10.

10.

FRONT.

FRONT.

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

73

there would be trestles or tubs upon which to “ head ” the
fish, which would then be laid out at (3). A labourer
would lift them from (3) to the bench at (4), where they
would be gutted and then laid out at (5). From (5) they
would be passed through a trough of water (6), and thence
to the splitters’ bench (7), over the back of which they
would be slid, when split, into the washing trough (8).
After being washed they would be laid out upon the grat-
ings (9) till ready to be salted into the vats (10). After
being the necessary time in pickle, the fish, if not to be
immediately dried, would be laid in “steeples” with a
sprinkling of salt about them at (11). Xo. (9) might either
be simple gratings laid on the floor, or large, shallow
troughs raised upon legs to about the height of a bench.
If more vats were required, they would be set either along-
side (10) or extended in linel — towards the front of the
building. Through the doorway (12) salt would be brought
in and salt fish passed out.

Washing out of the Salt. — Before being laid out to
dry salted cod have to be very carefully washed. The blood
bone should receive special attention ; all black skin should
be removed from the inside of the fish, and any slimy
matter adhering to the skin should be thoroughly brushed
off.

Drying. — Beach drying is the oldest method, and it is
still extensively practised in summer where suitable
beaches are available. For fish drying a beach should be
composed of good-sized stones, which should be perfectly
clean ; and it should be open enough to benefit by every
wind that blows. A beach of fine gravel is quite unsuit-
able for fish drying. Artificial beaches are frequently to
be met with at some of the northern curing stations. These
are rough causeways of good-sized stones laid down to imi-
tate beaches where none formerly existed suitable for fish
drying.

Scalding. — In beach drying the first danger to be
guarded against is the scalding or blistering of the fish by
the sun. This risk is greatest during the first few days of
exposure. Curers should, therefore, avoid laying their
fish out when the stones are very hot, or when the weather
conditions are such that the beach is likely to become very
hot during the day. A day •when there is a fresh sea breeze
and when the sun is not too strong is best.

The fish should be laid out first on their backs, but as the
process of drying goes on frequent turning is advisable.
I oi the first day or two it is sufficient when night approaches

74

THE ART OF FISIICURING.

to gather the fish, hack up, into small bundles or clamps.
As the fish get harder, these heaps should be increased in
size, and protected from the damp by tarpaulins or other
suitable covers.

Sweating. — After about a fortnight’s drying the fish
should be gathered together and built into large steeples,
which should be carefully covered. Upon these stacks
planks with stones or other weights should be laid, to press
the fish flat and give them a smooth, compact, and uniform
appearance. Unless the fish are thus pressed during the
process of drying they are apt to shrivel up at the edges
and suffer in appearance. In these steeples the fish should
be left for ten days or a fortnight, but if the beach were
occupied with another supply of wet fish they might be
left longer. This process is known as the sweating or pin-
ing of the fish, and it should be carefully attended to, other-
wise the cure will not be complete, and the fish will very
likely turn damp and spoil when stored.

When sufficiently sweated the fish should again be
turned out and dried for about a week, after which a second
sweating for a few days would be advisable. A couple of
days’ drying after this should complete the cure. The
whole time occupied in drying the fish would thus be about
six weeks under favourable conditions; if otherwise, it
might be much longer.

Storing. — When gathering the fish from the beach for
the last time the curer should make sure that the)' are col-
lected in a cool state. If taken warm from the beach there
is a risk of deterioration in the store, which should be a
clean and substantial building. While in the store the
fish should be carefully covered up to exclude air and dust.

Flake Drying. — Flake drying has much to recommend
it. Beaches are not always available, but any piece of
waste ground may be utilised for the erection of flakes. On
the whole, however, a piece of a grass field may be considered
best, as there is least risk of dust blowing there. If the
risk of blowing dust is guarded against, flake drying may
be depended upon as an absolutely clean process. Then
the risk of scalding or blistering the fish under a hot sun
is reduced to a minimum ; and owing to the fact that the
air can act on the fish from beneath as well as from above,
fish can be sooner dried on flakes than upon a beach.

Wooden Flakes are constructed as follow: Four
runners, each 12 feet long by H inches square, are fastened
at equal distances apart to four bars, each 2 feet long by
3 inches broad by f inch thick. This gives a flake 12 feet

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

10

long by 2 feet wide. If preferred, the flake might be 3 feet
wide, in which case there would he five 12-feet runners
nailed upon four 3-feet bars. The bars might be a little
stronger — say, 4 inches broad by ^ inch thick. For stand-
ards or supports for the flakes stout posts are driven into
the ground, and stout beams G feet long are fixed across
them. Three of the narrower or two of the broader flakes
can be stretched across a couple of these supports.

Wire Flakes are also used. These are sheets of very
strong galvanised wire netting, G feet wide, with five stout
wires running through them, the edging also being of
strong wire. These wire flakes have this advantage, that
they occupy little space when stored away at the close of
the drying season.

Fixed Wires. — Sometimes a fixed wire framing is
erected. Standards 5 feet or G feet wide are set up at inter-
vals of 12 feet, and across them strong galvanised
wires are stretched, about 9 inches apart. These fixed
wires may be of any length that the ground will allow, and,
like the portable wooden and wire flakes, they should be
raised about 24 feet above the ground.

Between the rows of flakes or wires passages have to
be left of sufficient width to permit of the necessary traffic
involved in laying out and gathering in the fish.

Small Lots. — The retail dealer who might wish to cure
a few fish should not, with ordinary care, find it a very
difficult matter. A small vat, a supply of fishery salt, a
knife, and a hand brush would be all the plant required.
In connection with the drying of the fish there might be
some difficulty. His back yard might be so built round
as to exclude the wind, which is so essential a factor in
the drying of fish. Or, on the other hand, there might
be a risk of dust blowing or soot falling so as to spoil his
chances of making a successful cure. But, given a clean,
airy yard, no matter how small, it should be possible to pro-
duce perfectly cured fish by flake drying. The flakes
would, of course, have to be made to suit the available
space, and empty barrels would make convenient supports
for them. It may be worth noticing that, in spreading out
fish to dry, space can generally be saved by laying them
head and tail alternately.

For the benefit of anyone who does not know the rela-
tive weights of wet and dry fish, it may be mentioned that
about 3 cwt. of live fish will be required to produce 1 cwt.
of dry salt cod . Of gutted fish it would take about 2£ cwt. ,
and of wet salted fish about 14 cwt.

7<;

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

To Cure and Dry Flake (Dog-Fish).

Some time ago information was asked as to the
curing of dog-fish or flake, as it is now called in
the markets. Half a century ago or less, fisherwomen on
the east coast of Scotland used to cure dog-fish for home
consumption, and the method of cure was as follows : — The
fish were first headed and then split down the back, com-
mencing at the shoulders of the fish, and keeping the knife
running along the upper side of the back-bone, half of
a\ liich might afterwards be removed in the case of a large
fish, as in cod splitting. The offal was removed, and the
fish were well washed in clean sea-water, after which they
were spread out to dry upon the locks or beaches, as near
the sea as possible. Frequent turning was necessary,
especially the first day. As no salt was used in the curing,
special weather conditions had to be chosen before starting.
What was wanted was dry, breezy weather, preferably
with sea winds. The fish had to be taken indoors before
there was any risk of dew falling on them in the evening.
If showers fell on them, or if a spell of moist, warm weather
set in before the fish were thoroughly dry, they were apt to
become oily and dark coloured, in which case they were
usually thrown away. With a few days of suitable
weather, however, a very nice, palatable article was pro-
duced. The fish were generally roasted on a brander over
a clear fire, some people preferring to give them, in addi-
tion, a hasty scalding in boiling water. It is scarcely
necessary to say that fish cured in this way could not be
regarded as a safe article to store for any length of time, or
to send abroad. From twenty-four to forty-eight hours in
salt or pickle, according to the time they were likely to be
kept in store or the climate of the country to which they
were likely to be exported, would be required before dry-
ing, if the fish were to be kept long. Large quantities of
dog-fish are dry-salted on board Swedish line-fishing
vessels, these fish being regarded as a perquisite of the
crews. Hard curing, it is generally admitted, detracts
from the flavour of dog-fish and rays.

Chapter XVI.

TO DRY SALT FISH BY FIRES.

Although, as already described, salt fisb can, under fav-
ourable weather conditions, be satisfactorily dried either
on beaches or upon flakes, a curer who depends entii’ely
upon either system is seriously handicapped, since he can
dry his fish only during the spring and summer months, to
say nothing of the delay and loss he may suffer in a wet
season.

Before what is known as “ kiln ” drying became uni-
versal, all the cod and ling cured in autumn and winter, in-
cluding the proceeds of the autumn voyages of the vessels
engaged in the Faroe and Iceland fishings, had simply to
be stored away in dry salt till the approach of summer
allowed them to be exposed outside. The tying up of
capital for such a length of time would be a hardship to the
average curer nowadays, when all purchases have gener-
ally to be settled for weekly. The fact is, no one who is
doing, or who intends to do, a fair-sized business in fish-
drying, can consider his preparations complete unless he is
provided with suitable premises for the drying of his fish
by means of coke fires.

It is not absolutely necessary that a specially designed
building should be erected for this purpose. Almost any
ordinary store, with a brick or pavement floor as a safe-
guard against fire, can be converted into a drying shed
with comparatively little trouble and expense, always pro-
vided that the framework of the building is strong enough
to bear the strain caused by the weight of the fish. Such im-
provised drying sheds may be seen at any of the large fishing
and curing centres ; and the fittings are sometimes of the
simplest possible description. In buildings too low in the
ceiling to admit of more than one tier of fish being hung,
lows of tenterhooks have been driven into the joists, or lon°-
bars of urood with tenterhooks on each side have been fixed
across the joists at intervals of about 15 inches apart, and

78

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

fair quantities of fish satisfactorily dried ou them — fish
that would otherwise have lain on the curer’s hands for" half
a year in salt.

For the benefit of anyone who may wish for a few hints
as to the construction of a new building for the artificial
drying of fish, the following suggestions are offered, and
the accompanying plans submitted : —

Fig. 1 shows the ground plan of a drying shed 60 feet
long by 20 feet wide; fig. 2 gives a lateral view; and figs.

3 and 4 show the gable and the framework. The roof is
slated, and the side walls are 8 feet high. The floor and

4 feet of the walls, both sides and gables, are of concrete.
The floor slopes gently to one side, where there is a small
open channel or gutter, which is trapped and drained.

Up the centre of the building there are six strong
wooden pillars (fig. 1, E), which help to support the heavy

f

□

E

□

E

□

□ a

a a

□

E

1

WL

joists which run across the house from side to side (fig. 3,
F). Over these joists and about a foot above the top of the
side walls four strong beams run from end to end of the
building (fig. 3, I)) . Stout couples and diagonal stays
help to strengthen this framework and fit it to bear the
heavy weight of the fish when hung upon the tenters.

Upon the four long beams (fig. 3, D) pulleys are fitted
about a foot apart, and upon these pulleys the tenter frames
are suspended. There are four perpendicular rows of ten-
ters upon these frames, the rows being about 15 inches
apart. The tenters ( i.e ., tenter sticks) are in. by in.,
flat at the back but rounded at the front, where the hooks
are fixed. The latter are set about 5 inches apart. Each
tenter frame is double — that is, it has four rows of tenteis
facing each gable of the building.

Along the sides of the building, about 5 feet or 6 feet
from the ground, there are beams with cleats or other

THE ART OF FISIICURING.

7U

arrangements for fastening the ropes connected with the
pulleys. Similar beams and cleats run along both sides of
the central pillars at a corresponding height from the floor.
Some up-to-date drying sheds have small winches for hoist-
ino- and lowering the tenters. Since this house is divided
longitudinally by its central pillars, and the fittings oc-
cupy a good deal of space, the length of the tenter frames
would be considerably less than half the width of the build-
ing, and the fittings and arrangements on both sides would
be identical.

The rest of the plan requires little explanation. In
the roof there are three pairs of hinged skylights, fitted to
open with pulleys and cords (fig. 2, A) ; and in the walls

below there are three pairs of side lights, dead glazed with
rough plate (fig. 2, B). Cast-iron “ hit-and-miss” venti-
lators (fig. 2, C) — three on each side — regulate the draught
as required. Fig. 1, K, shows the approximate positions
of the chaffer furnaces, in which are the coke fires for dry-
ing the fish. These furnaces are simply wheelbarrow grates,
with radiating iron plates covering the fires. They are
usually set about 12 feet or 15 feet apart, and they are

80

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

frequently shifted to give all the fish an equal share of the
heat. For a building of this size six fires would be
required.

The cost of a building of this description, with fittings,
would probably be about £260 — more or less, according to
the locality and the cost of material.

Why a higher building is not recommended is that the
four rows of tenters described above can all be reached
from the ground when the frame is lowered. If the build-
ing were high enough to admit of, say, eight rows of ten-
ters on the frame, ladders or some other arrangement
would have to be used before fish could be hung on the
upper tenters. In the building described, when all the
tenters are filled and hoisted up, the lowest fish should be
about 5 feet from the floor.

Fish intended to be dried by fire are, of course, cured in
exactly the same way as fish which are dried outside.
When drawn from the pickle vats they should be laid out
to drain for a short time, preferably on a grating, and then
hung up on the tenters. If for any reason they cannot be
hung up for some time, they should be built in steeples,
with a powdering of dry salt over each tier of fish, and well
covered with matting or tarpaulin.

Tentering. — When the curer is not pressed for space
it is a common thing to hang all the fish up by their tails,
the tenter-hooks being inserted through the centre of the
fish near the root of the tail. If, on the other hand, space
has to be economised, they should be hung head and tail
alternately. By this means a considerable saving of room
is effected^ without the necessity of any additional heating.

Fuel and Heating. — The fuel used is gas coke, which
gives heat with a minimum of smoke. Both smoke and
dust have to be carefully guarded against lest the fish be
soiled and discoloured. The furnaces have, therefore, to
be filled and lighted outside, and the fires burnt red before
being taken in and set under the fish. As already ex-
plained, the furnaces should be set 12 ft. or 15 ft. apart,
but they should be frequently moved about so that all the
fish may get an equal share of the heat, and none of them
be overheated. As in beach drying, the greatest risk of
scalding the fish is during the early stages of exposure.
The fish are, of course, hung up wet, with the pickle drop-
ping from them, and although they are not so tender as
kippers or finnon haddocks, yet too high a temperature
would cause such a steam as would blister the fish, ant
some of them would probably fall off the hooks, \V hen

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

81

the fires are first applied the ventilators should all be
opened, and the temperature of the drying shed regulated
to about 60 deg. Should it mount up to TO it would be
advisable to wheel some of the furnaces outside for a time.
After the first day a temperature of 70 deg. would not be too
high, and during the final stages of drying 75 or even
80 deg. might be risked when the fish get hard.

One advantage of “ kiln” drying is that it can go on
continuously, day and night, a man being left in charge at
night to attend to the fires. Constant application of the
fires is not necessary, however; the fires may be allowed to
go out at night and be rekindled when desired ; but it is
generally considered advisable to keep them burning
constantly.

After about 48 hours' constant drying the fish should be
readv to be taken down and built up in steeples to pine or
sweat. They should be left thus for at least a fortnight,
but if it is not. convenient to hang them again at the end
of a fortnight, they might be left longer. For medium-
sized fish, other 48 hours’ exposure to the fires should com-
plete the drying. Before making the fish up for the mar-
ket, however, it would be as well to build them in steeples
again, with planks and stones or other weights over them
for a day or two. After this second pining extra large fish
would probably require at least other 24 hours’ drying to
make them hard enough for exportation.

As to the comparative merits of outside and inside dry-
ing, opinions differ. Some curers who have tried all the
methods of drying think that exposure to the open air pro-
duces really the best and most wholesome fish. It is just
possible, however, that they may overlook the fact that
when the drying was all done outside they generally got
fresher fish to handle than those available for curing now-
adays. Then the state of the weather brings such an
element of uncertainty into the business that not only may
much time be lost through unsuitable atmospheric condi-
tions, but it might be absolutely impossible for a curer to
get his fish dried to his mind outside. With a drying
shed, on the other hand, he is independent of the weather,
and can calculate to a day when his fish should be ready for
the market.

In the opinion of some experienced curers, the ideal
cure can be best obtained by drying and sweating the fish
outside until 24 hours “ kiln ” drying will make them as
firm as desired. The sulphury taint of the coke fires,
which is considered by many people to be objectionable, is

82

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

scarcely discernible after only 24 hours’ in the drying shed,
hut it is claimed that even in this short time the fumes of
the sulphur usually deter mites from attacking the fish
afterwards. The subject of fish mites will be referred to
later.

Cod Drying by Steam.

Cod drying by steam pipes is not unknown in the cur-
ing trade, but some of the firms that formerly used pipes
have discarded them in favour of the chaffer furnaces.
The reason why steam might be preferred in lofts with
wooden floors is probably that there is less risk of fire from
steam pipes than from open fires.

One northern firm had steam pipes led through a drying
shed many years ago, and found them useful enough for
drying up autumn-cured fish ; but when chaffer furnaces
came into use they took out the pipes and introduced the
furnaces, as being simpler and more satisfactory.

The pipes were led along the floor, as shown in the ac-
companying sketch.

They were generally wide pipes, perhaps 6 in. in dia-
meter, and they were laid about 2 ft. apart, sometimes

singly and sometimes in pairs. , .

The chaffer furnaces appear to have given most general

satisfaction.

Chapter XVII.

PREPARING AND PACKING DRY FISH FOR THE

MARKET.

In the making up of dry fish for the market, just as in
the curing of the fish, a tidy curer may find room for the
display of his taste. At this particular stage the more
attractive he can make his goods the better will be his pros-
pects of finding buyers.

Spain. — For the Spanish market, which takes a large
quantity of British-cured fish, cod are weighed out in lots
of 50 kilos, or about If lb. short of a cwt. These lots are
then packed up and sewn into pack-sheet covers. Ex-
porters generally find it convenient to use a sort of box
shape in which to make up these so-called cwt. lots. This
box has neither lid nor bottom. It is about 32 in. long by
18 in. broad and 11 in. deep, and has a handle at each end.
The packing is done as follows : — A pack-sheet cover, 48 in.
by 40 in., is spread upon the packing table, and on the
centre of this the box is placed. As each lot is weighed
out, the fish are carefully packed inside the box, with their
shoulders to its ends, after which the box frame is raised
and lifted off by means of the two handles at its ends. Over
the neat little pile of fish left, the pack-sheet cover is then
folded, and three stout lacings of cord are strapped round
the package — one round the centre and one near each end.
The sheeting at the ends of the package, which has hitherto
been left loose, is now folded in and sewn up in such a way
as to leave a “ lug ” or handle at each of the four corners,
by which to lift the package. This style of packing is said
to suit the requirements of the Spanish trade admirably.
The packages can be handled easily, and the covers protect
the fish from dust and damp. In a country where a good
deal of the traffic is still carried slung across the backs of
mules, these are important considerations.

Trade Marking. — In the Spanish markets the princi-
pal demand is for codfish, and these are often trade-marked
by the exporters. This trade-marking is an interesting

84

TIIE ART OF FISHCURING.

survival of the Government brand, which, early last cen-
tury, used to be applied to cured cod and ling/ under the
auspices of the Board of British Fisheries. At that time a
Government bounty was paid to curers for the encourage-
ment of the British fisheries. Unlike the present-day
system of branding cured herrings in Scotland, where only
a small percentage of the barrels is opened and examined,
each cod or ling was then passed through the hands of the
inspecting officer. If found worthy of the brand the fish
was laid upon a block and struck near the tail with a small
punching hammer, which cut the shape of a miniature
crown out of the fish. Modern trade marks are punched
in the same way.

Colonial Trade. — A limited trade in dry salt fish is
done with some of the British colonies — for instance, with
Cape Colony, Australia, New Zealand, and the West Indies,
although the AV est Indies and the South American States
perhaps draw most of their supplies from Newfoundland or
the United States. The duty'' on fish imported into some
of the colonies almost equals its selling price in this country.
Instead, therefore, of being a cheap article of food, dry fish
in these markets must be reckoned quite a luxury. As a
rule, the very best ling and cod are sent to the British
colonies. The fish are made up in cwts., but, instead of
pack-sheet or canvas covers, strong boxes, lined with tin
and hermetically sealed, are generally used. For the
packing of ling the box is usually 3 ft. long by 13 in. broad
and 11 in. deep. It weighs, when lined, from 20 lb. to
28 lb. The fish are packed head and tail alternately in this
box, as in the box frame used for the Spanish trade.

Home Markets. — Little need be said about the home
markets. Although, with the improved facilities for ob-
taining a regular supply of fresh fish, the demand for hard-
cured goods may be expected to decrease, there is still a
considerable outlet for dry fish, both in Great Britain and
in Ireland. So far as one can judge, cwt. parcels covered
with pack-sheet appear to be growing in favour, no doubt
for the same reasons that have led to their popularity in
the Iberian peninsula.

Chapter XYIII.

COD CURING.— FISH PARASITES.

Fish Mites. — As lias been already hinted, one of the
greatest dangers that a curer has to guard against in the
drying of salt cod, etc., is the risk of parasites attacking
the fish. The most common parasite is the ordinary fish
mite, which is apt to appear upon fish showing any signs
of damp. Fish that are “ mited ” look as if they had been
powdered over with coarse black pepper. Mites may
attack the fish either on the beach during the process of
drying or in the store, after the cure is complete. A com-
mon cause of the commencement of mites is when a sudden
fog comes down upon fish that are laid out to dry and the
curer cannot get them gathered and covered until they
have contracted damp. The drier the fish. are at the time
the greater will be the risk. Wet fish are not so liable to
suffer. During the final stages of the drying, therefore,
the curer should be specially careful not to lay out his fish
if the weather is not favourable, and should fog or rain
threaten he should gather and cover up the driest fish first.
If, in spite of his precautions, the fish get damp, he should
hang them up in a drying shed and apply fires for 24 hours.
This is generally believed to be sufficient to save the fish
from the ravages of parasites ; but when these appear some
curers take the additional precaution of washing and scrub-
bing the fish in strong pickle before giving them the final
24 hours’ drying.

To guard against mites in the store the curer should see
that his store is thoroughly clean, dry, and airy. He
should avoid taking in his fish when they are warm ; there-
fore, in hot weather he might find it advisable to remove
them from the beach or the flakes, either in the morning be-
fore they have become heated or late in the afternoon when
the heat of the day is past. On no account should he store
fish in damp weather. While kept inside the store they
should be carefully covered up. Some curers do not con-
sider it safe to uncover and handle dry fish even inside a
store if the weather oiitside is foggy or wet, lest the damp
state of the atmosphere should damage the fish.

86

THE ART OF FISIICURING.

Red F gngus. — Among other parasites that sometimes
appear upon cured cod is one that gives a red colour to the
fish, and which, though more uncommon than the ordinary
fish mite, is, perhaps, more dangerous, and certainly more
difficult to get rid of. A good many years ago the so-called
“ Red Cod ” were brought under the notice of the Fishery
Board for Scotland, and at their request Professor Cossar
Ewart, of Edinburgh University, examined the fish, and,
with the assistance of Dr. Ediugton, made an investigation
as to the cause of the discolouration. They found that the
red colour was caused by a minute fungus, which they
termed Bacillus rubescens. They found germs of this
fungus in some of the salt used for curing the fish, especi-
ally in Spanish salt; and they also came to the conclusion
that these germs might grow in the woodwork of the curing
houses or on board the fishing vessels. They were of
opinion that Bacillus rubescens did not thrive below 65 deg.
Fahr., but developed rapidly in hot and moist weather.
For this reason, no doubt, in fish which appear sound
enough during the process of cure these germs may develop
and spread rapidly when brought into more favourable
atmospheric conditions.

Precautions. — To prevent the growth of the fungus
these scientists recommended that the water used in fishcur-
ing should be as pure as possible ; that only clean salt
should be used ; that after salting, the fish should be dried
ps quickly as possible; that boracic acid should be used in
the curing, in the proportion of 3 per cent, of the water
used, and that the curing sheds, vessels, and implements,
when suspected of being infected, should be thoroughly
washed with a solution containing one part of corrosive
sublimate to a thousand parts of water.

With regard to the use of boracic acid there may be
differences of opinion, but there can hardly be two opinions
as to the necessity for scrupulous cleanliness in everything
connected with the curing of fish. The value of a good
supply of pure water has been repeatedly emphasised here.
At the close of each day’s work the fish-house and all its
utensils should be thoroughly washed ; and at least once a
year disinfectants should be used in the washing, whether
the presence of parasite germs be suspected or not. Every
utensil and implement should then be disinfected, from the
knives and brushes to the vats and flakes. The third of
the above recommendations — that the fish should be dried
as quickly as possible after salting— is generally complied
with nowadays by the use of drying sheds.

Chapter XIX.

ROES, LIVERS, AND OFFAL.

These by-products are by no means a negligeable quan-
tity in fishcuring. In the curing of cod and ling especially
they may be made to contribute very materially towards
the working expenses.

roes. — The popularity, and consequent value of good
fish roes are too well known to need much comment. Eoes
may be sold, and generally sold well, in almost any market
where fresh fish are offered for sale; so the curer who finds
himself in possession of cod or ling roes should have no diffi-
culty in disposing of them to his advantage. During the
spring months, when the roes are in season, all fish should
be opened very carefully in order to avoid damaging the
roes. (See Chapter XIII.)

As the roes are tender, they should be handled gently
and kept quite clean. Small kits or kegs would no doubt
carry roes most safely, but as it is not always convenient
to get these, kipper boxes may be recommended as a very
good substitute. Clean paper should be laid below and
above the roes to exclude dust and air ; and as roes are
heavier than kippers, the boxes should be more securely
nailed when the former are being carried. A piece of cord
might, if desired, be tied round the middle of the box.

If the roes have only to go an ordinary railway journey,
and are intended for sale on the following day, they need
no special treatment except to be kept whole and clean.
If they have to go a long joiuney and be subjected to fre-
quent handling, they should either be sprinkled with ice
or salt when packed or be washed through pickle before
packing.

To Cure Cod and Ling Roes.

A large and apparently growing trade is done at the
principal fishing ports in the curing of roes, which are
afterwards exported to France, to be used as bait for the
sardine fishery. The method of curing is simple enough.
The roes are usually washed in clean water — sea water

88

THE ART OF FISHCtTRING.

would be best if it could be got clean — and then salted into
tight barrels. They are cured in much the same way as
herrings, a layer of salt and a layer of roes alternately un-
til the barrel is full, the legs of the roes being spread out
in packing to allow the salt to penetrate them thoroughly.
When full, the barrels are headed-up, laid on their sides,
and kept for 10 or 12 days. The roes make their own
pickle, but the curer should, of course, see that his barrels
are tight and full of pickle. A small quantity of roes
might be salted down on the top of a vat of s'alted cod or
ling ; but curing in barrels is the more satisfactory method.
When drawn from the pickle, the roes are dry-salted on a
floor, where they are allowed to lie for a while to let the
pickle drain from them. Some curers prefer to turn them
over and give them a sprinkling of fresh salt during this
drying process. When quite dry and hard, they are
packed into light dry-ware casks, in which they are sent
to market. These casks somewhat resemble carrier barrels,
but they are fitted with two ends and have an iron hoop on
each end. ltoes are occasionally sent to market in the
seastick state — that is, in the original pickle ; but drv-
curing is the rule.

If a flavour of smoke were wanted, the roes would have
to be smoked in the same way as fish fillets — i.e., laid across
pairs of iron spits, or tenter-sticks without hooks, and
smoked in a kiln for a short time. The smoking of roes is,
however, a practice more honoured in the breach than in
the observance, since in the ordinary process of drying
the roes assume a dark, smoky appearance through expo-
sure to the air.

Livers. — If a curer can dispose of his fish livers to an
oil factory, it will, as a rule, be best for him to do so. He
will thus get them off his hands promptly, and will be rid
of the trouble of manufacturing the oil. The owners of
the factory, by making a special study of their business
and having a large turnover, would probably be able to
give as much for livers as the small curer could make out
of them, and still have a working profit for themselves.
Then, too, as the smell of boiling oil is a little offensive,
there might be objections on the part of the local sanitary
authorities to its manufacture on the curer" s premises. But
if there is no other way of disposing of his livers profitably,
and there are no objections to his boiling them on his own
premises, the curer ought certainly to make arrangements
for manufacturing oil.

There are two kinds of fish oil — medicinal cod liver oil
and brown or tannery oil.

THE ART OF FISIICUltING.

89

Medicinal Oil.— For the first, only perfectly fresh cod
livers should be used, and these should be manufactured as
soon as received. The making of cod liver oil, thoug 1
rather a tedious process, is not so difficult as many people
suppose. Anyone who may wish to extract the oil from
one or two good livers may do it in this way : Place the
livers in an old milk can and put on the lid. Put the can
in a pot of water, and boil the water steadily. The oil will
he drawn from the livers and will rise to the surface,
whence it may be skimmed or poured off from time to time.
From an hour and a half to two hours’ boiling should suffice
to draw off the oil, which will, however, still contain a good
deal of sediment. To purify it, the oil should be run
through double flannel filters. It is generally considered
advisable to chill, or, at least, cool, the oil before filtering,

(JU

THE ART OF FISHCtTRING.

and if no better arrangement can be made, the cooling may
be done by immersing a vessel containing the oil in a larger
utensil containing cold water. A simple and useful filter
is a cone-shaped flannel bag, with a stout wire ring at the
top to keep it open. Two of these bags should be used, one
hung above the other, as shown on the preceding page.
The oil should he poured into the upper filter and allowed
to run through it to the lower. A clean tub or other vessel
should he placed below to receive the filtered oil. The
“ foots ” or sediment left in the filters should not be thrown
away ; a good deal of brown oil may be extracted from it.

Larger quantities of livers may be treated on the same
principle in large double-jacketed pans, the jackets or
spaces between the pans being filled with water. Some-
times steam gear is fitted to the pans, with arrangements
for stirring the livers during the boiling, and thus hasten-
ing the process.

Steam is also used to cook the livers, and thus dispense
with the fire necessary for each pan. In this case the steam
is introduced by a pipe into the centre of a tank or vat con-
taining livers, through which it circulates and causes the
oil to rise. This is said to be one of the cheapest and most
effective methods of making medicinal oil.

For refining large quantities of oil, specially con-
structed filter presses are used.

Brown Oil. — The manufacture of brown oil is a simple
process. Indeed, were it not for the offensive smell caused
by the putrefaction of the livers, all that would be required
to get this class of oil would be to leave the livers in a tub
or tank, and the oil would gradually come to the surface,
when it might be skimmed off and put into casks. Such
a method, however, even if permissible, could hardly be
called satisfactory. To extract all the oil the livers
should be boiled, or, rather, roasted, over a fire in a single
boiler. The refuse from this and the other processes should
be pressed, so that no oil may be lost.

Offal. — The value or otherwise of the fish offal — that
is, the heads and intestines — will depend entirely upon the
locality where the curer may be working. At a few out-
stations fish offal is worthless, or the curer may even have
to be at the expense of removing it. As a rule, however,
there should be an outlet for the offal, either by selling it
to a guano manufacturer or to some enterprising farmer
who knows how beneficial fish manure will be to his land.
Cases are known where farmers year after year pay a good
price for manure of this description, and are then at con-

THE ART OF FISHCTJRING.

91

siderable expense for carting and railway freight before
getting it to its destination. This points to the possibility
of creating a market for the offal to the mutual benefit of
buyer and seller.

" As its prompt removal will be an aid to cleanliness, pre-
ference should be given to the buyers who can be depended
upon to take away the offal regularly.

Chapter XX.

HADDOCK CURING.

In attempting to describe the curing and smoking of had-
docks, it may be as well to take first the old style, by which
all the work is done by hand only, without the aid of
machinery. It is scarcely necessary to say that a good deal
of work is still done in this way, especially at the smaller
and the more remote stations.

Before the marvellous development of Aberdeen as a
trawl-fishing centre, haddock curing in Scotland was' en-
gaged in chiefly with a view to the requirements of the
Glasgow market. With the exception of those from some
of the Firth of Forth ports, Scotch fishermen then seldom
went to the English herring fishing in autumn. As soon
as they completed their engagements at the Scotch East
Coast herring fishing, they generally commenced the had-
dock fishing with small lines, at which they continued
until after the New Year at least, but often well into the
spring.

The fleet of small line boats was distributed round the
whole coast, and, though as a rule the fleet at each creek
was comparatively small, the quantity of fish landed and
cured along the coast reached a considerable total. The
bulk of those haddocks was cured for Glasgow, pale
smoked. A much smaller proportion, generally of the
smaller sized fish, was smoked a little harder and sent to
Edinburgh .

The favour in which those line-cauglit fish were held
was no doubt due to the fact that they were always landed
fresh, and cured in good condition. Glasgow buyers got
the credit of being both fastidious and discriminating, and
the curer who could produce a uniformly good article could
depend on getting the best market value for it.

The curing was often done in premises that were also
' used for kippering herrings during the herring fishing sea-
son, and the plant provided was practically the same for
both purposes. A large portable trough, however, in

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

93

which to put the fish for heading and gutting, is a very
useful addition to the ordinary kipper-house plant. The
accompanying sketches show the construction of such a

trough, 6 ft. long by 4 ft. wide, and with its top about
2 ft. 10 in. above the ground. In Fig. A the sides, ends,
and division, all of inch planking, are shown at E and F.
The four legs, 3 in. by 3 in., are marked G. The bottom
is a grating made of 3 in. by J in. spars screwed on 14 in.
by 1 in. bearers, the spars being f in. apart. Fig. B shows

H

J

1

;

s- - -

°F n

•»
j i

i ii

J

n$. b

riy c

the side elevation, and Fig. C the end elevation. H (Figs.
A and C) shows a 5 in. by 1 in. board for heading and
opening, and it might be as well to have one of these at
each side of the trough.

Heading and Gutting. — The process of heading and
gutting cod, having already been fully described, it will be
sufficient now to say that the haddocks are emptied into
one-half of this trough, where they are headed and gutted,
the board along the side of the trough being of service dur-
ing this operation. The black lining of the stomach, or as
much of it as possible, should be removed at this stage ;
and livers, roes, and oft’al should be put into separate
vessels.

The fish are now put into water and scrubbed outside
and inside, then passed on to the splitter’s bench.

Splitting. — The splitter lifts the haddocks one by one
with his left hand, laying each fish in front of him" with

94

THE ART OF FISIICURING.

its tail towards him. Taking a firm hold of the upper lug
of the fish with his left hand, he enters the knife above the
bone at the shoulder and draws it down to the root of the
tail, keeping the blade close to the bone during the pro-
cess, and taking care not to run the knife through the skin
of the fish. If the splitting has been perfectly done, the
fish is ready for the final washing. If the blood bone has
not been cut through, the fish should be turned round, and
as much of the bone chipped oft' with the point of the
knife as will expose the blood cavity. If a ragged combing
of bone has been left exposed along the edge of the back
bone, the protruding ends of the bones should be removed
by a sweep of the knife.

Washing. — The fish are now ready for the final wash-
ing, which is usually done in the same vats or tubs in which
the kippers are washed. In the case of haddocks, however,
each fish has to be treated separately and scrubbed with a
small brush. All marks of blood should be brushed off,
especially from the blood bone ; if there is any of the black
lining of the stomach remaining, it should be carefully re-
moved. and the outside of the fish should be brushed free
from slime.

Pickling. — After this washing the fish are ready for
the pickle, which is made as described in Chapter IV. In-
stead, however, of emptying the haddocks at haphazard out
of a basket into the pickle vat, it is better to lift them one
by one and spread them out in the pickle, so that all the
fish may be equally salted. Then, as the pickle is apt to
be weakened by the immersion of so many fresh fish, it is
advisable to throw a sprinkling of salt in between the tiers
now and again as the vat is being filled, to help to keep
the pickle up to the required strength. Half an hour is
the usual time allowed in the pickle, but sometimes a little
less or more, according to the size of the fish and the mar-
ket for which they are being prepared.

Hanging. — After being drawn from the pickle, the
haddocks are ready to be hung up in the smoke. Spits
were formerly used to hang haddocks — wooden spits about
as thick as a man’s little finger, and long enough to stretch
across the void of a kiln. When wooden spits were used,
small sharp-pointed tin cones, known as spit pipes, were
generally kept for fixing upon the ends of the spits and
facilitating the process of hanging. The haddock was
lifted in the left hand by the “ lugs,” partly folded, with
the inside outwards; the spit was inserted under the lug
bone at the soft side of the fish and run out at the same

THE ART OE ELSIICURING.

95

place on the bone side. As many haddocks were put on
as the spit would conveniently spread. Iron spits, about
the thickness of an ordinary pencil, by and by took the
place of the wooden ones, and these again are now being
mostly replaced by tenters. When tenters are used, the
haddocks are hung in exactly the same way as kippered
herrings. (See Chapter VIII.)

Smoking. — Oak chips and sawdust are used for smok-
ing; and about two hours are usually sufficient to turn out
pale-smoked haddocks for the Glasgow market. For
Edinburgh a higher colour is required, and this may take
from five to six hours.

A Shall Kiln. — Reference was made in Chapter IX.
to the use of a small kiln for smoking bloaters or kippers,
and Scotch fishermen’s small haddock kilns were then men-
tioned. It is unnecessary to repeat what was said in that
chapter, but it might be referred to by any small dealer
who may wish for hints as to the curing of a few dozen
haddocks.

Packing. — Before packing, the fish should be allowed
to cool, either in the kiln or on racks in the packing shed.
Not very long ago, barrels were solely used for the Glasgow
trade, the contents of the barrel representing cwt. to
2| cwt. of live haddocks. In packing, the fish were laid
upontheir backs, the bone side of the haddock being kept
to the side of the barrel. The barrels were hard filled and
the ends pressed in, the fish of the top tier being turned
back up. Nowadays the fish are almost all packed in
boxes, with paper above and below them. For the com-
mission market a 2-stone box is generally used ; for cus-
tomer trade the boxes range in capacity from 1 to 10 stones.

Although the Scotch trade alone has been here spoken
of, the method of curing pale-smoked haddocks is practi-
cally the same all over. In large ports, such as Grimsby,
however, time and labour-saving machinery has been util-
ised as much as possible. Some reference is made to the
use of machinery in the next chapter, which treats of the
curing of finnon haddocks.

Chapter XXI.

TO CURE FINNON HADDOCKS.

This special method of curing haddocks takes its name from
the village of Findon, near Aberdeen. It was at first quite
a home industry. Among the Kincardineshire villages the
crews employed at the small line fishing usually divided
each day’s catch of haddocks as soon as they landed. Each
fisherman then took his own share home, where the fish
were cured by the female members of the family, the smok-
ing being done in the kitchen chimney or “ lum,” which
was specially adapted for the purpose.

.Some of those fish were no doubt hawked through the
surrounding country, but the city of Aberdeen was the
principal market for them. The grocers bought
the “ finnon ” haddocks wholesale from the fisherwomen,
and, in addition to supplying their counter trade, they be-
gan to send supplies to shopkeepers in other towns. This
may be said to have been the beginning of the enormous
customer trade now done in Aberdeen. "With the increase
of orders, grocers and other dealers were induced to com-
mence curing on their own account ; and, on the other hand,
with the influx of the village population to the city, some
of the more enterprising fishermen gave up fishing and
started business as wholesale fishcurers and merchants.

In the enlarged premises that were found necessary,
machinery was soon introduced with a view to the saving
of time and labour, but in all kilns intended for the smok-
ing of “finnons” the idea of the “hanging lum" has
been retained, no matter how large the kilns may be. The
fish-houses need no special description. Their size, and
the amount of plant necessary, depend upon the extent of
the owner’s business.

Finnons are now mostly made from trawl haddocks.
The haddocks are brought from the market to the fish-
house in the ordinarv salesmen’s trunks, which contain
about 8 stones each, 'if they are “ live ” or ungutted fish,
they have first to be headed and gutted, which may be done

THE ART OF FISHCURIN G .

9T

at a fish trough, as described in last chapter. If the fisli
have been gutted at sea, they have only to be headed
now. In large establishments guillotines are a good deal
used. These are heavy knives fastened with a hinge to
a block at one end, and with a convenient handle at the
free end . The operator raises the knife by the handle with
his right hand, and with his left lavs a haddock over the
block with its throat up towards the knife. A downward
movement of the right hand severs the head from the body.
The head is thrown into the offal barrel ; the body of the
fish either drops into a basket or slides down a shoot, or
might be conveyed by a moving belt to the washer. Before
beiug washed, however, the black lining of the stomach
should be removed.

Washing. — In a modern haddock curing establishment
the washing troughs are long vats divided into water-tight
compartments about 2 ft. square. At the back of the wash-
ing trough there is a revolving shaft. In each compart-
ment a brush is fixed upon the shaft in such a position
that it revolves through the water that fills the troughs.
A hood of zinc covers the brush sufficiently to keep the
water from spraying over the place. A woman stands
opposite each revolving brush. Lifting a haddock, she
holds it to the brush, manipulating it so that all blood,
black skin, and slime are thoroughly cleaned off.

Splitting. — The fish is then passed over the crank in
front of the washer to a table on the opposite side, where
the splitter stands. Finnons are split a little differently
from Moray Firths. They are not split farther down than
within an inch of the tail, and a cut is then made on the
bone side of the fish. Entering the knife at the shoulder,
the splitter makes a deep cut through the small bones to
within an inch of the termination of the splitting. The
object of this cut is to make the fish look broader. The
haddocks as they are split are placed one by one upon a
moving belt, two of which generally revolve from the centre
outwards, towards opposite ends of the splitting table. The
belt is usually so arranged that each haddock is deposited
in a shoot, down which it slides into a receptacle at the end
of the washing trough. Here a woman takes the fish in
hand again and brings the blood bone lightly into contact
with a revolving brush, to clean the blood cavity.

The sketch on page 98 represents a plan of a combined
washing trough and splitting bench. The water-tight divi-
sions of the trough are shown at X, the position of the revol-
vmS brushes is seen at A, and the washers stand at B. The

8

JJ8

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

B

B

B

B

X

X

•

X

A

i

1

L

A

1

— Ti r\

“D

O

0

c c

E

other half of the sketch represents the splitting table 0,
and C shows the position of the splitters, of whom there
.would be one for every two, or perhaps three, washers.
The position of the moving belts is shown at I), and the
position of the revolving shaft at E. Oil engines are gener-
ally used for driving the shaft and belts.

Pickling. — After being split and washed the fish are
ready for the pickle, which is made of the usual strength
for herring curing. (See Chapter IV.) The time allowed
in the pickle, for trawl haddocks, is from 20 minutes to
half an hour, according to the size of the fish and the re-
quirements of the market for which they are destined.

Drying and Hanging. — After they are drawn from the
pickle the haddocks are laid upon “drippers” to
drouth, as it is termed in Aberdeen — i.e., to be partially
dried and put into shape before being spitted. The dry-
ing might be done in the open air under favourable
weather conditions, but if the work of curing is to be
carried on daily, in all weathers, a small drying shed is
almost indispensable. If no existing building can be
fitted up and ventilated for the purpose, the roof of a
building might be extended so as to form a shed, with the
sides wholly or partially open. The drippers might
either be supported upon portable racks or standards such
as are used to put tenters of kippers upon — (see Chapter
VIII.) — or a fixed framework of bearers might be erected
along the sides of the shed. The “ drippers” are planks
about 6 in. broad, and of a length to suit the drying shed —
say, 10 ft. or 12 ft., more or less. These planks are
bevelled, and when in use the rounded side is laid upper-
most. The supports for the planks are shown in the sketch
on page 99 at 1 and 2, and the planks upon which the split
fish are laid out to dry are shown in position at 3. The
fish are laid over the planks, or “ drippers,” as they are
called, as shown, with their lugs overlapping, the second
fish being laid so as to overlap the first, the third to overlap

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

99

ilie second, and so on. As a general rule, the haddocks
are allowed to lie overnight upon the “ drippers.” In
an emergency they may be spitted and hung right away ;
but, if so, there is more risk of fish falling off the spits
during the process of smoking than when they are
drouthed before being hung. Iron spits are used, and the
spit is pierced through only one lug — the lug of the soft,
or boneless, half of the fish. The position is shown bv
a dot on the fish in the above sketch. The full spits may
be hung upon standards, or racks, until as many are
ready as will fill a kiln. The latter may hold from 10 to
trunks of trawl haddocks. A trunk of trawl haddocks,
a tei being cured, usually yields about 51 stones of smoked
fish.

A Finnon Kiln. — The accompanying sketches show
the construction of a finnon kiln. Fig. 1 shows the front
view 1 he back wall, of brick, A, is shown in Fig. 2,
The funnel B (Figs. I and 2) is of sheet iron, with a hollow
revolving cone, or old wife’s hood, with wind vane C on
the top. „ I lie latter is most in favour with fishcurers. An
apron of sheet iron or wood, D, slopes outwards from
lo/er front of the funnel. The floor E is of brick.
About 2 ft. above the floor (Fig. 2) F, a row of bricks
projects about 2 in. from the back wall of the kiln, and

100

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

3

§c a / e .

THE ART OF FISHCURING .

101

five similar rows project at intervals of 1 ft. up to G at the
level of the lower edge of the apron. In the older kilns
stout cords with loops, and, in more modern kilns, chains
with large links at intervals of 1 ft. — H hang down fiom
the front of the apron, the loops or large links being at a
height corresponding to the rows of projecting bricks at
the back. The chains might be hung at intervals of 6 in.
to 9 in. apart. Between the chains H at the front and the
projecting bricks F f at the back (see Fig. 2) there is a
space equal to the length of a spit, say, 4 ft. Fig. 3
shows a brick hearth or floor bedded in concrete, 14 ft.
by 6 ft. Including foundation for back wall, a building
of this description might cost £45, more or less, according
to the locality and cost of materials. Although a length
of 14 ft. is given here for the front of the kiln, it should,
of course, be understood that kilns vary in size according
to the requirements of the curer and the ground space
available.

Some recently constructed kilns are a compromise be-
tween the above and an ordinary Moray Firth kiln. The
kiln is constructed like the void of an ordinary kipper kiln,
with walls on both sides, and width enough for two lengths
of spits. The kiln proper is, of course, much lower than
a kipper kiln, and it is surmounted by the usual bottle-
shaped funnel and cowl.

Smoking. — The spits of fish are hung as shown at Ia,
Fig 2. In order to impart the necessary high colour, peats
and soft wood sawdust are used for smoking ; and the time
required is from six to eight hours. The smoking of
finnons is mostly done by women. At least one woman,
but more often two, must attend the kiln constantly. The
peat is broken up into small pieces, spread along the wdiole
floor space below the fish, and ignited. When the fire
gets too hot it has to be smothered with sawdust. Con-
stant attention is required. Being hung near the fire, the
fish must be closely watched lest they get scalded, in which
case they would drop off the spits into the fire. If it is
found that the fish are being smoked faster at one end of
the spits than at the other, the spits must be turned end
for end until they are all coloured alike.

Sizing and Packing.- — When the fish are sufficiently
smoked, the spits are taken from the kiln and hung across
standards in the packing shed, where they are left until
the haddocks are perfectly cool. They are then run off
the spits upon benches, where they are “ sized ” and tied
up in bunches of three by pieces of cord or grass passed

102

THE ART OF FISIICURIXG.

through the openings in the lug made by the spits. To
take oil' any sawdust or ashes that may be adhering, the
haddocks are then rinsed through weak pickle and brushed
with a fine brush, after which they are ready for packing.
Boxes only are used for the packing of finnons. A 2-stone
box is the favourite size, but to suit the requirements of
customers boxes ranging in capacity from 1 to 10 stones
are generally kept in stock.

Chapter XXII.

TO CURE SMOKIES OR CLOSE FISH.

Gutting and Washing. — The haddocks are headed,
gutted, and washed in the usual way, hut they are not
split. On being washed they are laid upon a bench and
sized, after which they are tied two and two together by
the tails.

Pickling and Hanging. — They are then put into
pickle for from one-half to three-quarters of an hour, or
even an hour if the fish are large, the pickle taking longer
time to penetrate the fish than if they were split. When
sufficiently salted the fish are taken from the pickle, hung
over rods, and laid out to “ drip,” which may be best
done in a shed for drying finnons. The rods referred to
are made of a length to suit the kiln, so that the fish do
not have to be shifted when taken to the kiln to be smoked.

The Kiln.— The kiln may he constructed in either of
two ways. One way is to sink a pit under the level of the
ground, the sides and ends being built of brick. In this
kiln billet-wood is used for fuel, the wood being chopped
into small pieces. The other kiln is a brick tank built
above the ground, with two or three ventilating holes near
the ground. The walls might be about 4 ft, high. In this
kiln white-wood chips are chiefly used for smoking.

The size of the kiln varies according to the curer’s re-
quirements. A fair average might be about a dozen feet
long by 5 ft. to 6 ft. broad and 4 ft. high or deep. Some
are larger, others considerablv smaller.

Fires.— In the underground pit the billet-wood must
fii st. be laid in position and lighted, and the fire must be
clear before the fish are put in to smoke. In the other
kiln the chips are put in first, then the fish are laid in
position, and, finally, the fire lighted, a rod or two of fish
being lifted to permit of this being done.

Covers. In either case the kiln must be closely
covered, so that the smoke cannot escape. A fiat wooden

104

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

frame is usually made to fit the kiln, and this frame is
covered over with a heavy covering of bags or canvas.

Smoking. — These kilns do not require much attention
after the fires are lighted. Smoking is a very rapid pro-
cess, and the fish are taken out practically cooked as wel]
as smoked, after being exposed to the fire for perhaps
three-quarters of an hour or little more.

Packing. — The fish must be cooled after they are re-
moved from the kiln. They are generally packed in small
kipper boxes, containing a stone of fish each.

Chapter XXIII.

TO FILLET FISH.

Although tlie various details in the process of fish filleting
are practically performed in the same way, they are some-
times done in different order by different curers. The fol-
lowing may, however, he taken as a fair description of
this method of curing : —

Heading, Gutting, and Finning.— -The fish are headed
and gutted in the ordinary way, after which they should be
washed through clean water. The fins are taken off in the
following manner : Make an incision in the skin at the
lower end of the dorsal fins, and run the knife up along
each side of the fins along the back of the fish. The fins
should then come away easily. The ventral and anal fins
should be removed in the same wav.

Splitting. — Split the fish carefully, so as not to leave
any small bones on the fillets. It is best to enter the knife
at the vent and run it down to the tail, then, reversing the
blade so that the edge is uppermost, enter the knife at the
vent again and move it forward so as to separate the rib
bones from the fish. Turn the knife again, and, with the
edge downwards, enter it at the shoulder of the fish and
complete the splitting, separating the two halves of the
fish at the same time. The bone should be taken from the
other half of the fish in the same way. The lugs and the
adjoining thin part of the fish should next be cut away,
the part thrown away being thus a long, thin, triangular
strip, with the lug bone as the base of the triangle.

Skinning. Lay a fillet on the bench, with the skin
downwards. Take a firm hold of the tail with the left
hand, and enter the knife between the skin and the flesh.
Still holding the tail firmly with the left hand, run the
knife forward close above the skin until the fish is sepa-
rated and the fillet complete. Some curers skin and then
fillet, but the man who first splits and then skins generally
gets the best results, as his fish are firmer to handle, and
there is thus less waste as a rule.

106

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

Dyeing and Pickling. — Before being put into the
pickle the fish fillets are generally coloured with Annatto
dye. From a third to half a gallon of this dye might be
allowed to a bucket of clean water, but there is no fixed
rule. The quantity may be greater or less according to the
curer’s taste or the requirements of his customers. The
fillets are merely dipped into the dve and immediately with-
drawn. They are next put into clean made pickle (see
Chapter IV.), in which they are left for half an hour or
a little more, large fish usually getting rather longer in
the pickle than small.

Drying and Smoking. — After they are taken out of the
pickle the fillets are hung up in the kiln and dried for from
one to two hours, after which they are smoked for about
the same time over a fire of hardwood chips and sawdust.
Fish fillets are not tentered or spitted like other fish : they
are either hung over tenter sticks without hooks or
stretched across pairs of iron spits. In either case, very
careful balancing and handling are required, otherwise the
fillets are apt to fall off.

Cod and codlings, saith, and extra large haddocks are
the fish generally preferred for filleting ; small fish are un-
suitable. Although the process looks, at first sight, rather
elaborate and tedious, great skill and speed are acquired
by practice, aided, no doubt, by division of labour. One
expert skinner might keep four or free filleters and six
or eight finners going, and for a full day’s work a staff of
this size might fillet from 500 to (iOO stones of large cod
or saith. This implies that the skinner must be able to
skin a stone of fish per minute on an average ; yet some men
claim to be able to accomplish this.

Sheath knives, with blades about 5 in. long, are chiefly
used for finning, and these knives are often used for fillet-
ing and skinning also, especially if the fish are medium
sized. For large fish, however, longer knives are prefer-
able for filleting and skinning.

Chapter XXIV.

TO KIPPER SALMON.

Some time ago a subscriber to “ The Fish Trades Gazette ’r
wrote asking for instructions as to the kippering of salmon,
with the stipulation that the cure must be sufficient to pre-
serve the fish for a month or two, if required. As salmon
curing is not in the writer’s line, he has been obliged to-
apply to experts in this particular branch for the informa-
tion desired.

Scotch Method. — The Scotch method of kippering
salmon is simple enough : Wash and head the fish and split
it down the hack, removing the roe and intestines ; then
wash again to free it from blood stains, etc. Mix equal
quantities of strong fishery salt and brown sugar ; la}' the
fish in plenty of this mixture, and allow it to lie in it for
forty-eight hours. The fish might be well rubbed with the
preservative before being salted down in it. After forty-
eight hours, hang the fish up, either in the open air and
sun or in an ordinary kipper or finnon kiln. Three small
double-pointed sticks should he fixed through the skin at
intervals along the hack of the fish, to keep it spread out
during the process of drying. If dried in a kiln, a few
hours’ smoking is recommended. Some curers add a little
saltpetre to the salt and sugar.

M ith a fish so rich and fatty as the salmon, it is plain
that the above process can only be regarded as a temporary
cure ; and fish so treated will only keep for about the same
time as kippered herrings or finnon haddocks.

Norwegian Methods. — To a Norwegian friend the
writer is indebted for the following notes on the Norwegian
methods of kippering salmon : —

Mild Cure. — Cut the head off, and split the fish down
the back. TV ash it clean, and then put it in salt or or-
dinary pickle. After lving in the pickle for three days,
the fish is taken out and washed in clean, fresh water and
then stretched upon pieces of lath. These pieces of lath
are about an inch and a half broad, but quite thin. They

108

THE ART OF FISHCURING.

are cut to a length corresponding to the breadth of the
fish, and sharpened at the ends. One of these spits is put
across the back of the fish at the lugs ” or shoulders, an-
other about, half-way down, and, if the fish is very large,
another still farther down, the points of the spits being
stuck through the skin of the fish. The fish is then
“ tentered ” and hung up in a chimney, where it is smoked
over a fire of fir branches for a day and a half or two days.
Salmon cured by this process come out something similar
in appearance to an Aberdeen-cured haddock, but rather
darker in the colour. They are cut into collops and sold
for immediate use, generally at high prices.

Hard Cure. — Salmon meant to be kept for two or three
months are much harder cured. In this case the fish are
split into halves to facilitate the operation of curing, and
to make them easier to handle and to stow in the barrels.
These should be clean and tight, and preferably of hard
wood. Although not insisted on, it would he advisable
first to rub the fish well with a mixture of brown sugar
and fishery salt, as in the Scotch method, and a little of
the same mixture might be thrown in between the pieces
of fish as they are packed into the cask. Hard packing
should be avoided; sufficient room should be left to let the
pickle circulate freely. The barrel should be filled c j u i te
full of strong, clean pickle (which in this case had better be
filtered), the end put in and “ tighted,” and the barrel
laid on its bilge. If properly cured, salmon treated in this
way should keep for tivo or three months, or even longer
if required. The barrel should, however, be opened occa-
sionally and the fish examined. If there were any risk of
the pickle turning stale, it should be poured oft and fresh
pickle substituted, the fish being well washed in clean
pickle before being repacked. As a precautionary mea-
sure, the fish might be taken out, washed, and repacked
after being two or three weeks in cure, even if there were
no suspicion of staleness. hen required, the pieces of
fish should be taken out, well washed in clean, fresh water,
and smoked in the same way as the milder-cured fish.
( )wing to the rich nature of the fish, this is the only method
by which it seems possible to preserve salmon for any length
of time apart from tinning. Dry-curing would fail to pre-
serve such a fat fish. In Norway all the smoking is done
in the chimneys of dwelling-houses, in much the same v a \
as finnon haddock curing was originally done on the Kin-
cardineshire coast.

ERR ATU M.

Please note that in 10th line “ 16* gallons Imperial”
should read “ 13J gallons Imperial.”

Chapter XXV.

The staves used in barrel making have to be of good, well-
seasoned wood, which must be capable of retaining the
pickle.

The staves and ends of barrels and half-barrels, when
completed, must not be less than half an inch nor more
than three-quarters of an inch thick, and they must not ex-
ceed six inches in breadth. Head ends must contain not
less than three pieces and bottom ends not less than two
pieces. The liquid capacity of a barrel is 26§ gallons, and
of a half-barrel 16* gallons Imperial. Diagonal rods of
23 in. and 18* in. respectively are largely used in the
measurement of barrels and half-barrels, but liquid
measurement is the only strictly accurate test.

When Swedish spruce or other soft wood is used, the
following are the usual sizes of staves : —

Whole Barrels. Half Barrels. Firkins or Qrs.

Length ... 31* in. 24 in. 18 in.

rP li l plr 11 pcc 1 l 9 1

The following are the usual sizes of trusses, the increase
in size, to allow the hoops to pass, being 1 in. for barrels,
f in. for half-barrels, and f in. for firkins.

End Hoops ...
Raising Hoops
Quarter Hoops
Bilge Hoops

Barrels.

1 alf Barrels.

Firkins.

18

in.

14f in.

Hi

in

19

5 >

15* ,,

ii|

? 1

20

16* „

12*

5 9

21

> >

IT ,,

131

9 9

A cran measure has a capacity equal to 37* Imperial
gallons. The quarter-cran measure is a basket of the fol-
lowing dimensions : —

Interior diameter at bottom ...

Interior diameter at mouth

Diagonal measurement from inside the bot-
tom to inner side of mouth
Height inside ...

Rise in bottom

144 inches.

17* „

21*

14*

H

9 >
9 9

110

THE ART OF FISHCUHKMU .

Basket measures must be officially stamped with the
Crown brand before being used for tbe purchase or sale of
herrings.

Particulars for the information of candidates for the
situation of fishery officer under the Fishery
Board for Scotland.

The limits of age are from 21 to 26 years.

Candidates, who must be of sound health and good
character, have to furnish a certificate of their knowledge
and skill in fishcuring and coopering, and an extract from
the public register showing the date of their birth.

When a vacancy occurs in the Board’s staff, candidates
are allowed to compete in an examination on practical
knowledge, after which one or more candidates are nomin-
ated by the Board for examination by the Civil Service
Commissioners. The subjects of examination are: —

1. Handwriting.

2. Arithmetic (including vulgar and decimal fractions,

averages, percentages, long and cross tots).

3. English composition, including spelling.

4. Geography, with special reference to countries engaged

in the herring trade.

5. Digesting returns into summaries.

Candidates have to qualify in the five subjects, and the
order of merit is finally determined by the total number of
marks obtained in both examinations.

Form of certificate (to be written by the candidate) to be
lodged by persons wishing to be appointed fishery
officers : —

We do hereby certify that lias exercised the

trade of a cooper, and has been employed in the curing and
packing of herrings, and that, in our opinion, he is skilful
therein, and qualified to overlook the curing of herrings,
and to judge whether they are properly pined, cured, and
packed so as to be entitled to the official brand, according
to the directions of an Act passed in the forty-eighth year
of the reign of His Majesty George III., cap. 110, for the
farther encouragement and better regulation of the white

THE ART OF FISHCTJRING.

Ill

lierring fishery; also, that, from his education and prac-
tice in business, he is qualified to take and keep a regular
distinct account of salt, nets, barrels, and other stores
shipped or put on hoard vessels or boats for the herring
fishery, and of such articles or of the different kinds of fish
landed from vessels or boats on their return from the fish-
ing ; to administer declarations with due solemnity, to con-
duct correspondence respecting the business of any fishery
district to which he may be appointed, and generally to
execute the duties which will be required of him as an
officer of the fishery under the provisions of the various Sea
Fisheries Acts.

We do further certify that the said is a man of

good character.

[Date.]

[Signatures and Professions or Designations.]

ubpary

Advertisements.

BARRELS.

BARRELS.

BARRELS.

When in want of

First-class Herring Barrels,

kindly apply to

W. Slater & Sons,

POINT LAW, ABERDEEN,

PROPRIETORS OF

THE LERWICK BARREL FACTORY,

ALSO

THE YARE BARREL FACTORY,

GREAT YARMOUTH.

Telegraphic Addresses Slaters, Aberdeen.

Slaters, Lerwick.

Factory, Great Yarmouth.

TIVOLI I
TIVOLI I
TIVOLI I

“AS RECONSTRUCTED, NOW
RANKS AS ONE OF THE
BEST EQUIPPED HOUSES
IN THE COUNTRY.”

7 TWICE NIGHTLY. 9

A HIGH-CLASS
= VARIETY =
PROGRAMME.

SEATS BOOKED IN ADVANCE AT

MARR, WOOD, & CO., 183 Union Street.

Proprietors— THE TIVOLI (ABERDEEN), LIMITED.

Managing Director— WALTER GILBERT.

CASTLE’S

Wholesale and Retail List of the Fishing and

Allied Trades.

A COMPLETE DIRECTORY OF THE

Fish, Game, Poultry, and Rabbit Trades of Great
Britain and Ireland,

CONTAINING COMPLETE LISTS OF

FISH MERCHANTS,

CURERS,

FISHMONGERS.

GAME DEALERS,

In all Towns and Villages in Great Britain
and Ireland ;

ALSO,

All Senders of Fish, Game, Poultry, and

Rabbits.

Price 5s. 5d., Carriage Paid.

From the PUBLISHERS,

Castle’s Directories, Ltd.,

PRINTINGHOUSE SQUARE,

Whitefriargate, HULL.

ELLIS & M'HARDY,

Coal iYlerchants,

jwr 1 8

REGENT QUAY

ABERDEEN,

Are Large Importers of the Various

kinds of

ENGLISH & SCOTCH

COALS

They keep an efficient Staff of Workmen, Horses,
and Carts ; and are always in a position to
Bunker Steamers and Trawlers on the
Shortest Notice.

PRICES VERY MODERATE.

Telephone 2889.

ONLY THE BEST

FISHERY

SALT

Should be used for Curing.

USE ENGLISH SALT.

Avoid Impure Substitutes.

THE SALT UNION,

LIMITED,

LIVERPOOL ;

AND

STOKEIPRIOR, near Bromsgrove,

Cater expressly for the Fishery Trade.

They know what is best, and they supply it.

Londonderry Barrel and
Box Factory.

The Proprietors,

Messrs. BALLINTINE, LTD.,

LONDONDERRY,

BEG to call the attention of Herring
Curers operating in Ireland to above.
Extensive Stocks are carried at
Londonderry, Buncrana, Downings Bay,
Kincasslagh, Killybegs, etc.

All Barrels are hand-made of finest
selected Swedish Spruce. Contracts
booked for delivery where required in any
part of Ireland.

Curers passing through Londonderry
are cordially invited to call and see the
Cooperage and inspect the hygenic con-
ditions under which the employees work.

Telegrams — 11 Ball intine, ” Londonderry.
“Energy,” Buncrana.

n

established / 8;q

ph “BROWN, LERWICK"

Te'®» ,r, “BROWN, NORTHROE-.'

Add'' “BROWN.HILLSWICK'.’ '5Te«l

Qi

WHOLESALE & RETAIL

& offices — l to 15, Commercial Road,

\§r

ALL COMMUNICATIONS TO BE ADDRESSED TO THE
'OFFICES COMMERCIAL ROAD UNLESS OTHERWISE ADVISED,

Paints & Oils, Compositions, Nautical Instruments.
Bunting, Blacksmiths, Engineers & Woodworkers Tools.

NETS, BUOYS, ROPES,

AGENT FOR -0ILSKINS, CANVAS, COMPOSITIONS, frc&'.

Brown’s Line Haulers

Free field Ironworks, Lerwick.

These Line Haulers are well known, and are extensively used -by
British and ForeignSt'eam Liners, andall classes cf Line ^fhing Boahs
and Vessels, both ok home and abroad

Telephone- 1 1 54 Aberdeen

LIMITED

TELEGRAMS, BRILL

iTheJeadingAberdeen f

p,sH i

^'MERCHANTS 1
1 ' and CURERS. (I

White and Yellow Fillets and Finnans
a Speciality.

Prince Fist) of every Kind supplied to the trade where
Quality and Price is a Desideratum.

wm\

AN IMPORTANT HOME INDUSTRY.

DERIVED FROM BRITISH MINERALS.
PRODUCED BY BRITISH WORKMEN .

YOUNG’S PARAFFIN OIL

Has been extensively user! in all climates for over sixty years without causing
a single accident. Its minimum flash point is never less than 105’ Fahrenheit,
Abel Test. It is distinguished for safety, brilliancy, and economy.

YOUNG’S CANDLES

Are made from the Company’s own well-known manufacture of Paraffin, and
include, amongst many others, the following highly popular brands : —

BRITISH WAX.

ROMAN WAX.

ROYAL PARAFFIN,
RADIANT PARAFFIN.

CARRIAGE

BATHGATE SPERM.
DOMESTIC PARAFFIN.
SILVER PARAFFIN.
EXPORT PARAFFIN.
MOONS.

YOUNG’S LAMPS,

FOR BURNING PARAFFIN OIL OR PETROLEUM.

ARE SAFE. ARTISTIC, SUBSTANTIAL. AND MODERATE IN PRICE.

Every Variety, suitable for the Million and the Millionaire.

Court Central Air-draught Burners, in four sizes.

Duplex, Radiant, Brilliant, Comet, Victoria, and other Burners.

YOUNG’S NAPHTHA and MOTOR SPIRIT.

YOUNG’S NAPHTHA bears a High Reputation for LIGHTING and
for MANUFACTURING PURPOSES.

YOUNG’S MOTOR SPIRIT is in great demand both for PLEASURE
CARS and COMMERCIAL VEHICLES.

YOUNG’S FUEL OILS

Are suitable for all types of Internal Combustion Engines, Motor Launches
Fishmg Boats, Drifters, and for Farm and Dairy Machinery Engines. The

Catn alS° be USjC c,for buminR Lamps, and the heavy quality for
Rivet Heating Furnaces and Steam Boiler Firing 3 1 *

YOUNG’S PARAFFIN LIGHT & MINERAL OIL COMPANY

(LIMITED)

ne,tnsPi0The/r-f ^ Mi?eral u0il partly, and employs about 2,500
Proch A's ^0, lpa.n>’ has obtained the Highest Awards for its

Products at the principal International Exhibitions.

Registered Office = = 7 West George Street, Glasgow.

Aberdeen Office— 28 GUILD STREET.

ESTABLISHED 1815.

Aberdeen Savings Bank

(Certified under Act of Parliament).

Head Office— 19 UNION TERRACE.

BRANCHES.

Northern
Holhurn
Eastern .
Torry
Woodside

393 GEORGE STREET.

133 HOLBURN STREET.

3 KING STREET.

35 VICTORIA ROAD.

470 GREAT NORTHERN ROAD.

AU Offices (excepting Woodsitle) open

Daily, 9*30 to 3; Saturday to 12.
Monday and Thursday Evenings, 6 to 8.

Woodside Office open

Tuesday and Thursday, 9-30 to 3; Saturday to 1 2 j also
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday Evenings, 6 to 8.

ORDINARY DEPARTMENT.

Deposits received up to £50 in One Year, and £200 in all.

Friendly and Charitable Societies and Penny Banks may deposit all their
Funds. Interest— £2 10s. per cent.

SPECIAL INVESTMENT DEPARTMENT.

Depositors whose Accounts have reached the limit in the Ordinary Depart-
ment may deposit further amounts to the extent of £500. Interest
£2 15s. per cent.

GOVERNMENT STOCK.

Depositors may further invest in Government Stocks to the extent of £200
a year and £500 in all.

GOVERNMENT ANNUITIES.

Annuities from £1 to £100 may be purchased.

Total Funds— £1,800,000.

Accounts may be transferred from the Post Office, or any other Savings
Bank, without withdrawing the money.

Any business may be transacted through the Post.

Further information may be obtained on application to

THOMAS JAFFREY, Actuary.

RICHARD IRVIN & SONS,

LTD.,

WITH WHICH IS AMALGAMATED

W. H. LEASK, Peterhead,

Fish and Herring Salesmen, *
Steam Fishing Vessel Owners,

NORTH SHIELDS, ABERDEEN, PETERHEAD,
CREAT YARMOUTH, AND HARTLEPOOL.

SEASON BRANCHES.

Blyth, Lowestoft, Milford Haven, Lerwick, Stornowayr
Stromness, Castlebay, Mallaig, Buncrana, Downings
Bay, Scrabster.

SUPERINTENDENT ENGINEERS AT
ALL THE PORTS,

First-Class Storage for Spare Nets, etc.

Telegraphic / IRVIN, ABERDEEN. IRVIN, GREAT YARMOUTH:

Addresses, 1 IRVIN, NORTH SHIELDS. LEASK, PETERHEAD.

ABERDEEN.

Telegraphic Address — “Frozen, Aberdeen.’’
Telephone No. 562.

Telegraphic Adds. :

“ Hakon, London.”
“Viking, Aberdeen.
“Antonio, Lerwick'

Telephones :

London, 13110 Central.
Aberdeen, 1129 ,,

WILLIAMSON & CO.

WHOLESALE AND EXPORT

Fresh and Cured Fish and Provision Merchants.

LONDON OFFICE:

Killarney House, Monument Street, E.C.

FACTORIES :

The Esplanade, Aberdeen, Scotland.

“ Garthspool,” Lerwick, Shetland.

SPECIALITIES :

Sun-dried Salt Ling’, Cod, Saithe, Haddocks,
Tusk, etc.

Smoked Haddocks (Finnans), Kippers, Fillets,
Bloaters, Reds, Sprats, etc.

Tinned Goods of all descriptions.

Salt Herring’s in Barrels— half, quarter, eighth,
and sixteenth ; also in Tins.

All kinds of Wet or Dry-Salted Fish taken delivery of
from Smacks or Trawlers at Curing Stations in
Shetland or at Aberdeen.

ESTABLISHED 1783.

BY APPOINTMENT TO HIS MAJESTY THE KINC.

JOHN BLAIKIE & SONS,

Bon-Accord Street Metal Works,

CONTRACTORS TO

His Majesty’s Board of Works, the Admiralty Dock
yards, and the Aberdeen Corporation.

Q&ta^tetB, anft Qftrass jfcunbers, Copper;

smtffis, (]f)fum6m, (Baefttfers, dnft
££antfarp Jfrpectaftefs,

* * *

ELECTRIC LIGHT INSTALLATIONS.

FIRE AND WATER MAINS.

CHEMICAL FIRE EXTINGUISHERS.

BRASS AND COPPER WORK FOR DISTILLERS,
BREWERS, ENGINEERS, PLUMBERS, ETC.

Agents for —

The EOS Gas Plants and LUX OIL
and GAS LAMPS.

Telegrams—
BLAIKIE, ABERDEEN.

Telephones—

OFFICE AND SHOW-ROOM, 56.
STORES AND WORKS, 65.

The Key Stone of Success :

QUALITY.

A Business being built on these bricks

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Enterprise. Keen Prices.

THE

LIMITED,

ALBERT QUAY,

ABERDEEN,

Having now Amalgamated with the

Aberdeen & Tyne Boat Building Co.,

Will carry on Business in the following Branches at the
above Address:—

BOAT BUILDERS, ENGINEERS,
BLACKSMITHS,

SPAR AND BLOCK MAKERS,
SHIP CHANDLERS, SAILM AKERS,
SHIP PAINTERS,

NET MANUFACTURERS, ETC.
OTTER BOARDS AND ACCESSORIES*

Telegrams — 11 Irvin, Aberdeen Telephone — No. 12.^1 .

DECK AND ENGINE ROOM REQUISITES.

TRAWLERS’ COMPLETE OUTFITS, ETC.
MANUFACTURERS OF ACETYLENE GAS.
GENERATORS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR

STEAM TRAWLERS, DRIFTERS, ETC.

ESTIMATES GIVEN .

The Ships’ Stores and Repairing Co., Ltd.,

ALBERT QUAY, ABERDEEN.

Das deutsche Entsprechen.

Correspondence en Frangais.

Alexander Stephen,

Breeder, Importer, and Exporter

of Shetland Ponies.

'©'©/®/®/-

HORSE, CARRIAGE, HARNESS,

AND

GARDEN NETTING REPOSITORY,

LEMON PLACE,

ABERDEEN.

10

The Wholesale Supply Co.,

179 to 185 GEORGE STREET.

ABERDEEN.

CYCLE MAKERS AND AGENTS.

Large Stock of Latest Designs.

REPAIRS AND ACCESSORIES.

ENAMELS, OILS, TUBES, TYRES, SADDLES,
BELLS, CONE KEYS, PEDALS.

Agents for Famous Moto Reve Motor Cycle.

Winner of over ioo Gold Medals.

GARAGE.

179 to 185 GEORGE STREET,
ABERDEEN.

Families Going Abroad

Secure the Cheapest Fanes,
Comfortable Cabins, and
Heavy Baggage Shipped at Cargo Rates

IF BOOKED BY

35a UNION STREET.

*

ABERDEEN.

Luggage Despatched in Advance.

EVERYTHING FREELY EXPLAINED BEFORE STARTING.

Scots Parties regularly to

Canada, United States,

Australia, New Zealand,

etc., etc.

MACKAY BROTHERS & GO.,

35a Union Street, Aberdeen.

DAVID MYLES,

I

MANUFACTURER,

111 COLGATE
-Me DUNDEE. 3{h-

Axminster Tapestry and

Jute Squares, Rugs, etc.

Hessians, Paddings, Scrims, etc.

ALL KINDS OF

Canvas for Fish Curers.

Works : FOREBANK.

Representative— P. F. BYRON, 2 Crimon Place, Aberdeen.

A. & M. SMITH, Limited,

SALT=FISH CURERS.

ALL CLASSES OF COD, LING, SAITHE,
HADDOCK, Etc., CURED TO SUIT ANY
CLIMATE, AND PACKED IN ANY ’FORM
TO SUIT BUYERS’ REQUIREMENTS.

SPECIAL FACILITIES for LARGE QUAN-
TITIES AND RUNNING CONTRACTS.

PRESERVERS AND CANNERS OF ALL
CLASSES OF HERRINGS, HADDOCKS, Etc.

CHILLED FISH FOR FOREIGN AND
COLONIAL CONSUMPTION.

A. & M. SMITH, Limited,

ALBERT FISHCURING FACTORY,

ABERDEEN (Scotland).

Letter Orders Carefully and Promptly Attended to.

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STORES.

Beside Freefield Post Office,

A few Minutes’ Walk from Fish Market.

SUPERIOR FAMILY PROVISION DEPOT.

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CHARLES GOODALL,

fTish JVlepehant 8c Capep,

RAIK ROAD, ABERDEEN.

FILLETS a Speciality.

Turbot, Plaice, Lemons, Halibut,

And all kinds of Flat Fisii in season.
Quotations by IV ire or Post Card if desired.

Each Customer Specially Catered for.

A TRIAL ORDER SOLICITED.

CHARLES GOODALL,

F1SHCURER AND MERCHANT,

Rai k Road, Aberdeen.

Telegrams— “ Goodall, Aberdeen.”

’Phone 8.

The Crowning Dish
on the Dinner Table

NUTRINA

:: PUDDDING ::

You cannot give the Children
too much of it. They relish
Nutrina, and thrive on it.
Easily cooked. Easily digested.

Try it now !

Of all Grocers and Stores

In id., 2d., and 4d. Packets.

JOHN STRACHAN & SON,

GILCOMSTON MILLS, ABERDEEN.

The Glasgow Patents Co.,

LIMITED,

Wellington Works, Kinning Park,

GLASGOW .

MANUFACTURERS OF

“ELECTROID” Anti-corrosive and Anti-fouling
Compos, for Iron and Steel and Wood Vessels.

“CLUTHA” Composition for Bunkers, Holds,
Peaks, Tanks, etc.

Patent “ELECTROGENS” for Boilers.

Our “Electroid” Compositions have been used for the past 26 years on
every class of vessel, viz., Warships, Ocean Liners, River Steamers,
Cargo Vessels, Trawlers, etc., and we can guarantee the very best
, results.

We hold Stocks at every Leading Seaport in the World.

A TRIAL COATING IS SOLICITED.

Aberdeen Office: 48 MARISCHAL STREET.

Telephone 710.

J. B. LAWSON'S

Special Liqueur Whisky

Matured, Blended, and Bottled by

J. B. LAWSON, DUNDEE.

Mclennan & urquhart (limited),

BREWERS,

DALKEITH, EDINBURGH.

AGENT— D. T. BOYD, 121 Union Grove, Aberdeen.

R. & J. SHINNIE,

CARRIAGE AND MOTOR CAR WORKS,

UNION ROW, ABERDEEN.

SOLE AGENTS FOR

Delaunay- Belleville Automobiles, Albion Motor Cars and
Commercial Vehicles.

Any Make of Car Supplied at Maker’s Price.

All Kinds of Bodies made to suit Customers’ Requirements.

Repairs of every description to any make of car by skilled Motor
Engineers. Cars for Hire. Tyres, Petrol, and all
Accessories always in stock.

GARDNER” ( sy Marine ENGINES.

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Telegraphic Address — Shop Telephone 465.

“Hoops,” Aberdeen. House ,, 1299.

JAMES SHAND,

Wholesale Ironmonger and
Fishcurers’ Merchant, . .

51 VICTORIA ROAD, TORRY,
ABERDEEN.

'<§/©/

Agent for “Viking" Best Herring
Barrel Hoops.

IMPORTER OF AMERICAN HICKORY PASSER HOOPS.

COOPERS’ TOOLS A SPECIALTY.

— '§/©/ —

Rivets, Dowels, and Wire Nails, etc.— about
100 Tons always in Stock.

'©/®/

All Orders Dispatched by First Train or Steamer on

receipt of same.

JOHN BROWN & SON,

Fish Salesmen & Steam Trawl Owners,

ABERDEEN.

MANAGERS FOR

Che Aberdeen Steam Crawling and
Fishing Co,, Cimited,

Engineers, Boilermakers, Blacksmiths, Tin =
smiths, Ship Carpenters, Sailmakers,
Opticians, and Ship Chandlers,

&c., &c.

ICE MANUFACTURERS.

Manufacturers of Trawl Nets, and Dealers in
all kinds of Fishing Gear and Stores.

Vessels fitted up with Apparatus for making
Acetylene Gas.

Repairs of every description executed with despatch.

Telegraphic Address:

“TRAWL, ABERDEEN.”

Nat ional Telephone :

No. 2885.

Bankers : The Clydesdale Bank, Limited.

EMIGRANTS TO CANADA

AND OTHER PARTS

Who want a, Reliable

Saratoga Trunk, Cabin Trunk, Portmanteau,
or Gladstone Bag,

Will find the Largest Selection and Unsurpassed Value at

ALEX. CRAIG’S Trunk and Bag Warehouse,

53 SCHOOLHILL, ABERDEEN.

Special Attention given to Repairs.

Special Terms to Presentation Committees.

Trunks Removed on the shortest notice.

Saddler and Harness Maker.

Second-hand Harness of every description Bought, Sold, or Exchanged.

A Large Assortment of

New and Second-hand Ladies’ and Gent.’s Riding Saddles

and Bridles.

Show Harness and Harness for the Fish Trade a Speciality.
inspection corDlallg iinhteO. Quotations given.

Also Breeder and Importer of Shetland Ponies.

FARROW’S BANK, LTD.,

REGISTERED OFFICE— 1 CHEAPSIDE, LONDON ;

HEAD OFFICE FOR SCOTLAND— 164 BUCHANAN ST., GLASGOW;

56 BRIDGE STREET,

ABERDEEN.

Deposits, 3% to 4 %.
Current Accounts, 2j/0.

Steam Trawlers' and Drifters' Compasses Carefully Adjusted.

T. W. DAVIES

(Under my Personal Supervision),

Chronometer Maker, Marine Optician,

Compass Maker and Adjuster.

Over 25 Years’ Practical Experience.

Sextants, Binoculars," ^^-^an^Steam Gauges, etc., Repaired

Spirit Compasses a Speciality.

Chronometers Cleaned an& Mateo. Electric JGells ffitteC.

HENDERSON BUlTSTirSour Market Street,

UPPER QUAY, ABERDEEN

(Late of Gt- Y“ and “ * — -

Telegrams “ Davies, Compass Adjuster, Aberdeen,"

Telephone — 21 29.

The Candden Coal Company,

COLLIERY PROPRIETORS,

lOO Market Street, Aberdeen.

English and Scotch Coals of all kinds at Lowest Prices.
Speciality: FINEST SCOTCH HOUSEHOLD.

Telegrams : " CARRIDEN, ’ ABERDEEN. Telephone 1017.

TEETH.

TEETH.

DENTISTRY at Prices to Suit All.

a. m‘iNTosH m'BfliN

(Late A. C. CLARKE),

25GEORGE STREET, ABERDEEN.

Tel. Address: “EDMINSON.”

R. EDMINSON,

Ifocminj flDevcfoant

AND

GENERAL COMMISSION AGENT,

HAMBURG

AND

STETTIN.

JOHN T. KINDNESS,

THUbolesale jfresb anb CurcD jfieb /Ibercbant,
JBon=2lccor£> Curitici Mocks.

RUSSELL ROAD, ABERDEEN.

Specialities —

Sun-dried Salt Ling, Cod, Saithe, Haddock, Tusk, etc.
Smoked Haddocks (Finnans), Fillets, Bloaters, Reds,

Sprats, etc.

JOHN T. KINDNESS,

BON-ACCORD CURING WORKS,

ABERDEEN.

ARTIFICIAL TEETH.

ROBERT W. MURCHIE,

204— GEORGE STREET— 204

(Nearly Opposile Friendly Society Hall),

ABERDEEN.

Satisfaction guaranteed in any kind of Dental Work.
FBICES to suit all.

GUNTHER & ROHDE

HERRING EXPORTERS,

PETERHEAD.

Tel. Addr. : “Rohde.”

llepresented at all the Principal Pishing Ports

ii

ALEXANDER GARDEN,

LADIES' and GENT.'S TAILOR,

2a South esplanade east, Corrp,

ABERDEEN.

See my Latest Patterns before ordering elsewhere. Fit and
Workmanship Guaranteed.

R. W. WISHART,

Cabinetmaker anb 'Upholsterer,

19, 21, & 23 ROSE STREET,

ABERDEEN.

All kinds of Cabinet and Upholstery Jobbing.

Removals Carefully Conducted by Road or Rail.

linoleums, jfloorclotbs, Carpets, anb Rugs.

Central Cabinet Works - - LEADSIDE ROAD.
ESTIMATES FURNISHED. Telephone 617.

JOHN BISSET,

ESPLANADE SAWMILLS, ABERDEEN.

Maker of all descriptions of Boxes for Fish Trade, etc.

Barrel Staves and Heading cat from best quality
Foreign H ood.

Scotch Fir Staves and Heading cut at own Country Mills

Telegram*— “ Shamrock.”

Telephone 1187.

JAMES G. ADAM,

{[Wholesale Jfisb fIDercbant ant> Curer,

RIVERSIDE FISHCURING WORKS,

ABERDEEN.

Specialities— Kippers and Haddocks, Whitings, Codlings, and Fillets.
Telephone 1341.

Granite Monuments

DESIGNS AND PRICES ON APPLICATION.

LETTER-CUTTING done in Town and Country, at Moderate Prices.

MONUMENTS,

In all the different shades of Granite, at lowest possible
prices, forwarded to all parts.

SEND FOR ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF DESIGNS.

WISH ART BROTHERS,

22 St. Peter Street, ABERDEEN.

W. LESLIE & CO., LTD-

HERRING EXPORTERS, SHIP AND INSURANCE BROKERS,
AND COMMISSION MERCHANTS,

59 MARISCHAL STREET, ABERDEEN,

WITH BRANCHES AT ALL FISHING PORTS.

Consular Offices for Chill, France, Germany, Itn.y, the Netherlands, and Spain.

GRUTNESS STATION CO.,

f isbcurers and General merchants,

SUM BURGH, SHETLAND.

Telegrams—" Grutness Co., Sumburgh.'’ Code— Scott's.

Exports — Herring, Cod, Ling, Tusk, Haddock, and Saiihe.

Telegrams: “GANSONS,” Lerwick. 'Phone No. 11.

GANSON BROTHERS

CARRIAGE-HIRERS and CARTING CONTRACTORS,

Harbour Street,

LERWICK,

have always available a large Supply of Lorries, Floats, Carts, and \ ans
for Hire, close to Fish Mart, also all sorts of Driving Vehicles,

all on the Most Moderate Terms.

Q. B. own Stores and Offices near the Mart, and can supply
parks for Net spreading. They have the largest connection
in Lerwick with the Fish 1 rade in the above requirements,
and Clients can rely on being served to the best of their

ability.

, ...... t Webster, Pktbrhkap.

Telegraphic Address**: JWbbst1{Rj Marsh Road, Gt. YARMOUTH.

A & J. WEBSTER, Limited,

Head Office - 11 YORK STREET, PETERHEAD,

Timber Merchants, Builders, Barrel and Box Makers.
Proprietors of the Peterhead Barrel Factory, also the Great
Yarmouth Barrel Factory.

Always on hand for Immediate Dispatch against Order,

Whole Herring Barrels (!st quality Spruce). |

1 a ’ Carrier Barrels (Iron Hoop on Head End).

CHARLES W. GORDON,

SPRING GARDEN SAWMILLS,

ABERDEEN.

Maker of all Descriptions of Boxes for the

Fish Trade.

Telegraphic Address—" Catch, Aberdeen." Tel • No- 6

GEDDES & CO., Ltd.,

DRIFTER OWNERS,

Ship Cbanblers anb Outfitters,

Head Office-40 WALKER ROAD, TORRY,

ABERDEEN.

Branches —

COMMERCIAL ROAD, LERWICK;

77 SOUTH QUAY, GT. YARMOUTH.

Nets, Ropes, Cutch, Carbide, Buoys, Oils,

Varnishes, Paints, Engine Room Stores, &c., &c.

HAY & CO.,

Merchants, Fish Curers, Ship and Insur-
ance Agents, Importers of Coal,

Salt, Timber, etc.,

LERWICK, SHETLAND.

8"?p,li?Id expeditiously with Bunker Coal ex hulk “ Havana,” moored
position in Lerwick Harbour. -No Port Charges.

Vice-Consulates for France, Denmark, Spain, and Norway. Agents for Lloyds.
La Fonciere Cie d Assureurs, Paris ; et Comite des AsBUieurs Maritimes de Bo ideal]

convenient
Agents for

Telegraphic Address - HAY, LERYVICK.”

ANDREW SMITH & SCHUUTZE,

Sbipbrofcers anb Ibernno tocrcbants,

LERWICK.

Also at

PETERHEAD, FRASERBURGH, WICK,

and English Stations.

THORNYCROFT

MARINE OIL ENGINES

FOR FISHING BOATS, COMMERCIAL VESSELS,

AND LAUNCHES.

BRITISH-MADE THROUGHOUT BY BUILDERS TO THE ADMIRALTY.
ALREADY FITTED IN MANY FISHING* BOATS.

GRAND PROFIT EARNERS. START ON PARAFFIN (BY LAMP).
PROMPT START ALSO ON PETROL, WHEN DESIRED.

NO LIGHTED LAMPS IN CONTINUOUS USE.

NO PETROL NECESSARY. NO FRESH WATER FOR COMBUSTION.
FUEL, COMMON LAMP OIL— PARAFFIN.

LOWEST FUEL CONSUMPTION. HIGHEST SPEED.

THOROUGHLY RELIABLE.

FULL PARTICULARS OF APPLICATION TO—

JOHN I. THORNYCROFT, Caxton House, London, S.W. ;

OR TO

MACNAUGHTAN BROS., 190 West George Street, Glasgow,

SOLE AGENTS IN SCOTLAND.

WM. STEWART,

LICENSED AUCTIONEER AND FISHSALESMAN,
NEWHTtVEN, SCOTLAND.

Fishcurer Specialities :

Cured Anchovies. Cured Gaffelbltar. Cured Matjes.

Proprietor of

Stewart’s Imperial Brand Smoked Sprats.

,, ,, Queen Oysters.

Crayfish.

DUNCAN & JAMIESON,

COMMISSION AGENTS, SHIPBROKERS,

AND

H E B R I N G ZEE IXI IP O IEL T T±] IR, S ,

-O WICK. O-

Branches - - ABERDEEN, LERWICK, PETERHEAD, GREAT
YARMOUTH, and LOWESTOFT.

JOHN W. ROBERTSON,

Ship ant> 3nsurance Broker,

COAL MERCHANT & CONTRACTOR,

LERWICK.

FINEST STEAM COALS supplied expeditiously Stores

or Hulks.

JEngltsb aitO Scotch Ibouse Coals of Best Quality.

Erection and Repairs of Fishcurers’ Wharves and
Fishworkers’ Houses a speciality.

All classes of Carpentering and Sailmaking Work done
promptly and efficiently on the premises.

SLIPWAY FOR STEAM DRIFTERS, Etc.

Telegrams— “ Combine." Telephone No. 34.

ADAM BROTHERS, LIMITED,

42 REGENT QUAY, ABERDEEN;

AND AT

NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE AND LONDON.

Ship and Insurance Brokers, Steamship Owners, Coal
Merchants, Commission Agents, etc.

Branch Coal Office: PROVOST JAMIESON’S QUAY, ABERDEEN.

ALEX. MARR,

Ship Broker, Ship Chandler, and Ceneral Store Dealer,

55 MARISCHAL STREET, ABERDEEN.

Fishery and other kinds of Salt always in Stock.

MAEIWE SUEVEYOE.

Agent for Moray Firth Mutual Insurance Boat Club.

Telegrams: “MARR, ABERDEEN.” Telephone: 590.

Smith, Jameson, & Holmes,

. .jftsb Salesmen,

Owners and Managers of Steam Fishing

Boats,

ABERDEEN & FLEETWOOD.

Telegraphic Addre3S— “ Forward, Aberdeen.”

,, „ — “ Headway, Fleetwood.”

Aberdeen Telephone No. 1013.
Fleetwood ,, >, 105.

Special attention given to Stranger Boats visiting

either Fort.

N .

JOS. H. KING,

NOTTINGHAM,

HJK
N .

FISH, GAME, AND POULTRY SALESMAN,
SALMON MERCHANT,

HERRING CURER.

COWS/G/ViM£A/rS SOLICITED. XeG>

BEST PRICES REALISED.
ACCOUNT SALES AND CHEQUE DAILY.

I»r PLEASE WRITE FOR PARTICULARS.

Bankers — Nottingham & Notts Banking Co. Telegrams — “Salmon.”

A. HARPER & CO.,

auctioneers ano Valuators,

285 GEORGE STREET,

ABERDEEN.

All classes of Goods taken in and sold on Commission.

Sale conducted Town or Country.

Terms Moderate.

Proceeds Guaranteed.

MITCHELL & MUIL,

LIMITED,

purveyors to

Ibis /Ifcajestp.

S3? appointment.

Bread and Biscuit Manufacturers.

-

MITCHELL & MUIL’S

SHIP BISCUITS

ARE THE BEST.

The Highest Award obtained for Sea Biscuits at the International
Fisheries Exhibition, London, 1883.

Mitchell & Muil, Ltd

SCH00LH1LL and HARRIET STREET,

■ ! iJaX ABERDEEN. Ke^

DOUGLAS WESTLAND,

Wholesale Fish Merchant and Curer,

RAIK ROAD,

•-O ABEE/DEEN .

Smoked Haddocks (Finnans), Fillets, Kippers,
and all kinds of Fresh Fish in season.

PRICES ON APPLICATION.

DOUGLAS WESTLAND,

FISHCURER, ABERDEEN.

DAVID MACDONAkD & SOflS,

(ttlercflanfe, anb 3neurance t&genfe,

HERRING FACTORS & EXPORTERS,

Importers of Herring' Barrel Staves, Boxwood,

Wood and Iron Hoops, Salt, Cutch, &c.,

45 CLARENCE STREET,

WATERLOO QUAY.

Hgenq? of maritime insurance Co., XtO.

Telegraphic Address - - “MACDONALDS, ABERDEEN.”

Cod>.s : A B C, 4th and 5th Editions, Lieber, Zebra, and Private.

ANDREW CHRISTIE & CO.,

WHOLESALE FISH MERCHANTS AND CURERS,
VICTORIA CURING WORKS,

ALBERT QUAY,

ABERDEEN.

'©/©,

Smoked Haddocks (Finnans), Fillets,
Kippers, and all kinds of Fresh
Fish in season.

PRICES ON APPLICATION.

— *

Andrew Christie & Co.,

FISHCURERS,

JC3 ABERDEEN.

Telegrams— “ Piston, Aberdeen.”

Telephone No. 253.

RICHARD W. LEWIS,

ENGINEER,

Boiler Maker, General Blacksmith, and Ship
Carpenter, Spar and Block Maker,

NORMAL BUILDINGS, POINT LAW,

ABERDEEN.

Engine and Boiler Shops —

Clyde Street, Point Law.

Ships Docked for Survey and Repairs.

*

Otter Boards of all sizes
kept in stock.

Also Maker of Steam Winches , Windlasses ,
and Steering Gears.

Repairs Promptly Attended to. Estimates Given.

Costs less and is better for you
than either Tea or Cocoa.

Gained Highest Awards

wherever Exhibited.

“Scotland yet.”

DUTHIE’S FAMED

“Scotland ”

OATCAKES.

So light, crisp, delicious, so brittle and pure,

A treat and a tit-bit to all they insure,

SOLD BY

Grocers and Italian Warehousemen
Everywhere.

"Scotland Stef" BaKery,

UNION ROW,

ABERDEEN.

Telephone No.
1136.

ESTABLISHED 1887.

Telegrams :
“Tanoid,” Aberdeen.

ENTERPRISE STORES, Ltd.,

MANUFACTURERS
AND MERCHANTS,

183 ALBERT QUAY,

ABERDEEN.

LARGE CUTCH IM PORTERS.

SPECIALITY—

Our Famous “TANOID” Brand.

AGENTS FOR

TUCK & CO., Ltd., Liverpool.— Genuine Stamped Tuck’s Packing,
Engine Packings (every description), Leather and Batata Belting, Hose
Pipes, etc., etc.

WM. WISEMAN & SONS, New Adelphi Mills, Glasgow.—

Waste, Sponge Cloths, Wicks, Buntings, etc.

MACARTHUR & JACKSON, Glasgow.-All kinds of Lubricating,
Gas Engine, Cylinder, and Burning Oils; Antifriction Crease, Bar Tallow,
etc. , etc.

PARK STEEL CO., Sheffield — Files, Hammers, etc., etc.

Large Importers of every description of Household, Paint, and other

Brushes.

Dealers in Paint, Varnish, Carbide of Calcium, Manilla Ropes, Slings,
Polishing Felt, Steel Crane Ropes, etc.

ORDERS PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO.

A. TRAIL, Managing Director.

/

■*

*