■ ^^^^t-5TAr^ NORTH CAROLINA STATE UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES S00645616 S THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE DATE INDICATED BELOW AND IS SUB- JECT TO AN OVERDUE FINE AS POSTED AT THE CIRCULATION DESK. m ^^n 150M/01 -92— 920179 BEACH GRASS Y\^ M^ BEACH GRASS BY CHARLES WENDELL TOWNSEND Author of " Sand Dunes and Salt Marshes," "A Labrador Spring, " In Audubon's Labrador," etc. BOSTON MARSHALL JONES COMPANY 1923 COPYRIGHT • 1923 • BY MARSHALL JONES COMPANY All rights reserved Printed in September, 1923 PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERIC. CONTENTS Chapter Page I. Days and Nights in the Dunes ... i II. Tracks in the Sand 41 III. The Beach in Winter 80 IV. Ice and Snow in the Sand Dunes . . 95 V. Ice Formations in the Salt Marshes 102 VI. The Uplands in Winter iii VII. A Winter Crow Roost 135 VIII. The Forest 162 IX. Swallows at Work and Play .... 214 X. Hawking 227 XI. Courtship in Birds 248 XII. On Certain Humanities 277 Index 307 ILLUSTRATIONS PLATE FACING PAGE 1. Sand Dunes in Winter Frontispiece 2. The Vendome Dune Overwhelmed by Sand IN 1915 2 3. The Vendome Dune in 1918 2 4. The Camp Grove in 1913 3 5. The Camp Grove in 1921 3 6. Cirque Dune Changing to the Desert Form 4 7. a nunatak in the dunes 5 8. Desert Dune of the Camp Grove from the 5 North 5 9. Hudsonia in Blossom 8 10. Dusty Miller 8 11. The Dunes by Moonlight {twenty minute exposure) 14 12. Beach Grass 14 13. Young Long-Eared Owl 28 14. Ancient Willow 28 15. Night Herons' Nests 32 16. Night Heron's Nest with Eggs 32 17. Tracks of Deer Walking in Hard Sand . 42 18. Tracks of Same Deer Running in Soft Sand 42 19. Deer Tracks in Hard Sand 43 20. Deer Tracks in Hard Sand 43 21. Deer Tracks in Soft Sand 43 22. Tracks OF Doe and Fawn about Water-Hole 43 vii VIU ILLUSTRATIONS PLATE FACING PAGE 23. Fox Tracks and Ripple-Marks 50 24. Fox Diggings for Grubs 50 25. Dead Loon with Tracks of Crow, Skunk AND Fox 51 26. Caterpillar Tracks on Steep Side of Dune 51 27. Muskrat Tracks 62 28. Muskrat Tracks 62 29. Tracks of Woodchuck and Pheasant on February 6, 192 1 63 30. Rabbit Tracks 66 31. Gray Squirrel Tracks 66 32. Dead White-Footed Mouse and Tracks . 67 33. Seaside Goldenrod and Skunk Tracks . . 67 34. Cat Tracks 68 35. Skunk Tracks and Hole Dug for Grubs . 68 36. Tracks of a Horned Lark and of a Lazy Crow 74 37. Tracks of Crow and of Young Toads . . 74 38. Tracks of Ring-Necked Plover, of Toad, AND OF Crow Alighting 75 39. Tracks of Night Herons 75 40. Tracks of Herring Gull 78 41. Grasshopper and its Tracks and Tracks of Savannah Sparrow 78 42. Incipient Ice-Wall at the Beach, January, 1922 86 43. The Ice- Wall at the Beach, January 6, 191 8 86 44. Ice- Wall Undercut 87 45. Ice- Wall Honeycombed and Darkened with Sand 87 46. Ice- Wall, February 8, 1920 88 47. Ice- Wall, February 29, 1920 88 ILLUSTRATIONS IX plate facing page 48. 'Tuddingstone" Ice -Wall 89 49. "Cobblestone" Ice on the Beach .... 89 50. Ice- Wall and Pinnacled Rocks 92 51. Ice- Wall Battered BY THE Surf AT High Tide 92 52. Frost-Rime at the Beach 93 53. Ice Grotto 93 54. Dunes in Winter 96 55. Dunes after Ice- Storm 96 56. Snowdrift in Dunes 97 57. Stratified Drift of Sand and Snow ... 97 58. Frozen Sand Columns, "Toadstools" . . 98 59. Sand Kettle-Hole 98 60. Cracks in Sand over Snow 99 61. Frost Crack and Retreat of Dunes before the Sea 99 62. A Creek in Winter at Low Tide .... 102 63. Vendome Dune from the Frozen Estuary 102 64. The Marsh in Winter 106 65. The Marsh by Moonlight (seven minute exposure) 106 66. The Ice Ant-Eater 107 67. The Ice Bear 107 68. Birch Bent by Ice-Storm 122 69. Edge of "Forest" after Ice-Storm ... 122 70. Bushes and Trees in Ice-Storm. A Glacial Kettle-Hole 128 71. Apple -Tree Gnawed by Rabbits and Meadow-Mice 12S 72. Tracks of Crow Taking Flight 156 73. Crow Pellets Regurgitated 156 74. The "Forest" in 1906, Appearing above THE Grass 162 X ILLUSTRATIONS PLATE FACING PAGE 75. TiiE "Forest" in 192 i {from the same point) 162 76. The Lean-To in the "Forest," April 4, 1915 172 77. Ice Arch in Marsh 172 78. Outline Drawings of Hawks 234 79. The Eeler at Ninety 284 80. The Sand Schooner 284 81. The Last of the "Edward S. Eveleth" . 288 82. The Sander . 288 PREFACE IN "Sand Dunes and Salt Marshes" I made note of intimate studies of such regions in my sojourns at Ipswich, of the varied forms and movements of the sand, of the growth and origin of the salt marsh and of the life in the dunes and the marshes both animal and vegetable. In the following pages I have endeavored to set forth additional studies in these same regions. Chapters VII and XI appeared first in the pages of the Auk, Chapter IX and part of Chap- ter X in the Bulletin of the Essex County Orni- thological Club, to both of which publications I am indebted for permission to print here. As in my other books, the Index will be found to contain the scientific names of the plants and animals mentioned. The illustrations are from my own photographs. I have called the present volume by the title of xii PREFACE "Beach Grass", partly because this grass is so char- acteristic of the region and partly because of the meaning of its scientific name — A?nmophila arenaria — the sandy sand-lover. BEACH GRASS BEACH GRASS CHAPTER I Days and Nights in the Dunes ''There is a rapture on the lonely shore^ There is society^ where none intrudes^ By the deep Sea, and music in its roar.'' — Byron THE DUNES are constantly changing and always present scenes of interest and beauty. The surface ripple-marks formed in the bed of the wind and athwart its course like the ripple marks in the sandy bed of a stream, move with the current. The grains of sand hurry up the gradually sloping side to wind- ward, drop over the steeper leeward side and eddy in the trough. These rippling, corded markings are to be found wherever the sand is bare of vege- tation, and record the direction of the present or latest strong wind. Like snowdrifts, the sand 2 BEACH GRASS collects behind tufts of grass or bits of driftwood and builds up into dunes. The dunes devoid of binding grass or bushes — the desert dunes — move in the direction of the strongest winds, those of the winter months which blow from the north towards the south. Like magnified ripple- marks, the windward side is hard packed and slopes upward at a gentle angle of about nine de- grees, while the leeward side rests at the steeper angle of repose of the sand, an angle df thirty- two degrees. On this side each foot of the trav- eller sinks deeply into the soft sand and starts it rolling downward. The two most striking examples of this desert type of dune at Ipswich, described in my former volume, still continue their devastating career. The '"glacier" dune has buried still more of the living pitch pine grove and has uncovered more of the dead one. In its uncovering process, the bleached skeleton of a horse has ben exposed to- day, and its bones lie about among the relics of trees where the animal laid itself down to die, many years before. The other great desert dune, the one near the mouth of the Essex River, has THE VENDOME DUNE OVERWHELMED BY SAND IN IQl^ THE VENDOME DUNE IN I918 THE CAMP GROVE IN I9I3 THE CAMP GROVE IN I92 IN THE DUNES 3 swept on with greater rapidity, as a larger area is now devoid of binding vegetation and is open to all the winds of heaven. Little remains of the birch grove, and the camp therein will shortly be overwhelmed. The sand has doubtless advanced at times at a faster rate than five feet a month in winter, a rate formerly determined by measure- ment and markings of individual trees. Between these two, a dune has overwhelmed a fisherman's shanty which formerly bore a weather- beaten sign, — "The Vendome." Higher and higher crept the sand until nothing was left ex- posed but the ridgepole, and this finally disap- peared. By a further shift and advance of the sand, a bit of the ruins is now revealed on this Vendome dune. The reverse waves of sand, with their steeper undercut surfaces to windward, held in place by the binding roots and buried stalks of the beach grass, have continued to cut backwards. These I formerly called amphitheatre dunes, as they take the shape of large or small amphitheatres. A similar name, that of cirque dunes, might well be adopted, for, like the glacial cirques cut out of 4 BEACH GRASS the rocks of mountains, their progress is partly determined by undercutting and by "plucking," — not by ice, however, but by the wind. Some of these cirque dunes are changing to the desert type as larger areas of sand, free from vegetation on their windward sides, give freer scope to the wind. Irregular dunes, looking like snow-covered mountain tops, pyramidal dunes cut on all sides, and peaks well protected by the binding beach grass are all to be found. Some of the latter stand up like nunataks above the surface of a glacier, or monadnocks on a worn down plain. Eagle dune has constantly changed in outline, disappearing like snow in the hot sunshine on the windward northern side, to be built up to leeward. The outline of the beach itself is undergoing many changes. The building of a stone and cement breakwater opposite Little Neck at the mouth of the Ipswich River has caused many changes in its wake. The cove below, where one of the Christmas wrecks occurred in 1909, has lost an indention of at least a hundred yards and the A NUNATAK IN THE DUNES DESERT DUNE OF THE CAMP GROVE FROM THE NORTH \ IN THE DUNES 5 shore has become almost straight. Farther to the south, the rebound from this building out has carried away fifty or sixty feet of the end of a driveway to the shore, and exposed a cross section of dunes in a low cliff. In 1911, I found the distance from the northern corner of the light- house lot was a thousand and ninety feet from high water mark. In December, 1920, it was only six hundred and thirty feet. Warning tres- pass signs, like King Canute's commands, have been of no avail. They have been washed away by the advancing sea. In winter this cliff of sand, solidified by frost, is undercut by the waves, cracks a foot or two from the edge and long sections sink down. In this way the recession is rapid. The pathway from the lighthouse, after traversing the dunes, formerly passed through a broad stretch of low- lying upper beach. Now that the beach is cut back, the path over the dunes is shown in section like a U-shaped hanging valley. Still farther to the south the beach has built out on a shore line of about half a mile, and suc- cessive waves of dunes mark the old beach lines. 6 BEACH GRASS A great plane of wind-swept sand awaits the growth of beach grass and the building up of dunes, but may succumb to the waves before this occurs. Again the swing of the shore line beyond this plane has cut into the older dune-covered beaches and has revealed in section timbers of old wrecks, once on the shore, and the remains of a fisherman's dory long buried by the sand. Be- yond this the beach line is nearly straight, for the outlying Ipswich bar comes to an end, the swing of the river no longer exerts itself, its mean- ders have ceased and it has escaped to sea. It is dangerous to interfere with the course of a river. The consequences are far reaching. Although many bushes and trees are over- whelmed by the sand every year, the total amount of vegetation in the Ipswich dunes, de- scribed in the former volume, appears to be in- creasing. In the last ten years the groves of pitch pines have augmented very much in area, extending towards the south whither the pine seeds are carried by the strong northerly winds. Many of the cranberry bogs — natural ones, not man-made — have grown up to bushes, and here IN THE DUNES 7 I have added a new bush and a new tree to the list — the buttonbush and the red oak. The dusty miller, a naturalized emigrant to these shores, has increased and multiplied. The Hud- sonia is as beautiful at all seasons as ever. The two clumps of red birches and of rhodora still keep their station, but the few square feet of bearberry have disappeared from my ken, whether overwhelmed by the sand, or merely lost, I know not. It is devoutly to be hoped that no enthusiast will ever introduce foreign trees or shrubs to dis- turb the natural flora of these dunes. Such an event would be viewed by a naturalist almost in the nature of a calamity. Growing near the edge of the dunes at the foot of Castle Hill is a willow of great age, a veteran, with split and hollow bole, unable longer to hold up its great branches which rest on the ground. In touching the ground it has renewed its life like Antseus of old or like the banyan tree, and has taken root and sent up fresh and vigorous willow saplings. It is re- lated of the early colonists that they brought 8 BEACH GRASS over from England willow wands which they stuck in the ground to grow, and I like to think that Winthrop the younger, who owned all this region, may have planted this tree. There are three other willows of the same great age and de- crepitude but with the same vigor of renewed youth, two side by side higher up on Castle Hill, the other on the side of Sagamore Hill. The pair on Castle Hill are much broken with age. The trunk of one is fourteen feet, seven inches in circumference, the other seventeen feet nine inches in circumference — almost six feet in diam- eter. A mirage of the distant coast and of vessels on the sea is a common phenomenon at Ipswich beach as in all seashore regions. Cape Ann is often distorted by mirage and the low shores and houses of the New Hampshire coast are elevated so that they appear like lofty cliffs, interrupted with numerous water-falls. The distant Isles of Shoals, visible only on clear days, are raised up so as to look like a city, dominated by the lofty lighthouse column. Mt. Agamentacus in Maine resembles a huge and flattened inverted bowl. HUDSONIA IN BLOSSOM DUSTY MILLER IN THE DUNES 9 Sometimes it seems suspended between sky and sea. On days when the sea is dark blue and the sky pale blue, fading to white at the horizon, dis- tant shores and hulls of vessels often appear lifted up, and a narrow ribbon of white sky stretches beneath. All are familiar with the classical tale of mi- rage in the desert, which simulates a lake of water to the thirsty traveller. Several times I have seen a similar mirage at Ipswich beach. One was so perfect that I was completely de- ceived, and wondered how this lake of calm, un- ruffled water could have sprung up over night in the expanse of sand. The illusion was intensi- fied by some gulls who appeared to be wading and swimming in the water. As I approached, the lake receded and finally vanished. At night there is a gentle mystery and a sense of primeval grandeur in the sand dunes that sur- passes the mystery and the grandeur of the day. It is good for the soul to escape from the conven- tionalities of life and lose itself in darkness in this waste of sand. Like a wolf, turning and shaping his form in the grass before he lies down. lo BEACH GRASS so the dune-lover shapes his form in the sand, hollowing places for his shoulders and hips. Ly- ing thus in his mold, securely wrapt in his blanket, on the crest of a dune wave, he sees the sun set, the blue eclipse of the sky by the earth rise in the East, and the pink glow overhead and in the West gradually fade. Swallows in strag- gling bands and in great multitudes, hastening to their night roost, skim close by, sometimes within a hair's breadth of his face. The dark, ungrace- ful forms of night herons pass over with slow wing-flaps and discordant croaks, and the stars come out until the whole vault of heaven is aglow. Those who dwell in caves, in deep can- yons or in rooms in city streets, know not the brilliancy of the heavens as revealed to those who lie out under the stars. They know not : ''The silence that is in the starry sky. The sleep that is among the lonely hills''' The laughing cry of the loon comes to his ears from the sea and the noisy clamor of a great company of herring gulls, gossiping with each other as they settle down for a night on the IN THE DUNES 1 1 shore. Sandpipers and plovers whistle as they fly over, and the lisping notes of warblers, mi- grating from the sterile cold of the North, drop from above. Forming a continuous background to these voices is the boom and the crash of the waves on the sea beach. All too soon he sinks into a gentle slumber, to awake perchance in the night and hear the pass- ing birds still calling to each other, and the surf still booming, and to watch the flickering rays of the aurora waving its ghostly arms overhead, or a meteor as it streaks across the sky. At dawn he arouses himself and finds everything about him soaked in dew. The radiation into the clear cloudless sky has reduced the temperature many degrees with the consequent condensation of moisture. Beads of dew stand out over his blanket, the grass blades drip with it and pit the sand below, and his frying-pan, beside the cold, sand-quenched fire, is dotted with drops of water. He has covered his binoculars, note-book case and knife with his hat and has saved them from a soaking. The air is crisp and cold. Tree swallows and, 12 BEACH GRASS later, barn swallows rise up in clouds from the dune thicket near at hand and salute the sun which, although still invisible from the sand, lights up their plumage on high. The red glow in the East begins to pale. It loses its brilliant carmine hue, fades to rose and to yellow and to cold straw color, and the great globe of the sun appears above the horizon. It is time for him to arise if he would take advantage of the oblique rays of the sun to study the story of the night in the tracks in the sand. The sand is moist with dew and holds every faintest impression like molders' wax. The wind has not yet arisen to mar these impressions by drying and crumbling them, or by filling them with blowing sand. The oblique rays of the sun, casting shadows in the faintest indentations, bring out with startling clearness tracks that are all but invisible when the sun is overhead. Near at hand are tracks of small birds that have paused for a moment, but have departed in haste alarmed by the attributes of man. An unsuspecting white-footed mouse has jumped along, leaving the tracks of a miniature rabbit. IN THE DUNES 13 A plodding toad, patiently pursuing its direct course, has traced its footsteps near the head of the sleeper. A skunk, that knight of the night sans peur, on account of his armor of scent, and, in this case, at least, sans reproche, has ambled leisurely by. One may be sure that no fox or deer tracks will be found near, except perhaps on the windward side. The sense of smell in these animals is too keen to permit them to run any risks. At the time of the full moon the fascination of the sand dunes is increased to a superlative de- gree. The whiteness of the sand augments the brilliancy of the moonlight, just as is the case when the landscape is white with snow. Such a night was that of September 25 and 26, 1920. It was calm and warm, 68° Farenheit by the cricket thermometer.^ As I wandered alone about the dunes, listening to the voices of the birds passing overhead, and of those on the shore and sea, I was alert for a glimpse of night- wandering animals whose tracks were clearly vis- ible by moonlight. Exposing a photographic 1 See page 2oi. 14 BEACH GRASS plate for twenty minutes to the mysterious scene, I patiently waited and watched during this in- terval but saw no track-maker. The sky on the sandy horizon — on the crest of a sand wave — looked black in comparison with the white sand, but this starless darkness soon merged into the vault of the heavens with its suggestion of blue, studded sparsely with stars. Only those of greater magnitude showed in the brilliant light of the moon; the light of the lesser ones was quenched. We pay for the light of the full moon by loss of starlight just as we pay for sun- shine by loss of moonlight. About five in the morning the moon set large and red, and the lesser as well as the greater stars blazed out, and the path of the Milky Way appeared across the heavens. After a period of unfavorable wind or weather, ?. perfect night may come when the floodgates of bird migration are opened, and the pent-up mul- titudes, waiting for this chance, pour along the aerial channels. Such a night followed Septem- ber 9, 1916, and it was my good fortune to spend it in the dunes and on the beach. The air. THE DUNES BY MOONLIGHT {twenty mimite exposure) BEACH GRASS IN THE DUNES 15 blown as clear as crystal by a sparkling north- west wind, and illuminated by the full moon, and its reflection from the sea and white sand, made the night almost as light as day. There was a brilliancy and ethereal quality suggestive of fairyland. Such nights as these fill one with rapture at the marvelous beauty and mystery of the sand dunes. During the evening it was evident that a large migration of small birds was taking place along this highway by the seashore as the air was filled with bird calls that showered down from the sky, but, peer as I would, the birds themselves re- mained invisible, notwithstanding the apparent brilliancy of the air. Only as they cross the face of the moon are such small bodies to be discerned. The tide was at its lowest ebb and, on the hard, broad floor of wet sand scattered shore birds were feeding. The short sharp note of the sanderling, the rasping ai-ah of the turnstone and the double whistle of the ring-necked plover sounded from time to time above the roar of the waves. No need for these birds to migrate by night as they are well able to feed at that period. i6 BEACH GRASS 1 made a salty, springy bed of dried eel grass, thatch and Irish moss on the soft upper beach, on which I spread my sleeping bag. Although at evening and at morning the sea was separated from my bed by nearly a quarter of mile of beach, about midnight I was dimly aware that the waves were pounding and roaring ominously not far from my feet. At this uncertain time of night the bird calls above still proclaimed the passing hosts. When I awoke for the day I watched the sun rise over the sea, and I realized in the absence of bird calls that the flight for the night was over, and that the birds had settled for the day for rest and food. My steps were first directed to the nearest thicket, for it was evident that most of the birds would seek the shelter of trees and bushes. On the way I came upon some pipits that had ar- rived during the night, very probably from Lab- rador, and had found congenial surroundings on the bare sand amid tufts of beach grass. In a thicket less than half an acre in extent of alder and gray birch, with an undergrowth of bayberry, IN THE DUNES 17 wild rose, staghorn sumach and poison ivy, sur- rounded by a threatening mass of bare dunes, was an assembly of birds that made the day a red-letter one for me, and still thrills me with pleasure when I think of it. The trees and bushes and the bare white patches of sand be- neath seemed filled with birds — not a flock of one kind but of many different kinds. For several hours I wandered enchanted through this di- minutive grove, retracing and crossing my steps again and again, led on by the sight and calls of the birds. At times I looked down on the tops of the trees from the encoaching dunes, and at times I sat on the sand under the trees and watched the birds come and go about me. The interesting group of warblers took first rank in this assembly. Myrtle warblers and black-polls, both in their simple winter plum- ages, were abundant. One myrtle warbler was, however, in the full regalia of the spring. It is not surprising that the black-poll in the fall was at first unrecognized by Audubon and called the autumnal warbler. In the autumn the country is often flooded with them and their characteris- i8 BEACH GRASS tic call notes are to be heard on every hand. Their plumage at this time is entirely unlike that of the spring. A redstart, a Maryland yellow- throat, a Nashville and a parula warbler were of this company, and magnolia warblers, spreading their tails and showing the white median bands, were common. In a dark thicket, a splendid male black-throated blue warbler revealed him- self to me by the white spots on his wings. Pres- ently he hopped into the light where I could ad- mire his trig figure, black throat and blue back. The commoner black-throated green warbler in winter plumage with his black throat entirely concealed by white feather tips was represented by several individuals. I have left to the end three rarer species of warblers, any one of which is worth a long trip to see. One of these, the Tennessee warbler, is, in the adult stage, one of the most obscurely marked of all warblers, a plain gray and white bird, but the two individuals in this favored grove were young of the year, and so yellow that an observer, unfamiliar with this phase, would be sorely puzzled. The first time I saw this ju- IN THE DUNES 19 venile plumage was on a steamer bound back from Labrador, where, during a fog, a couple of young and very yellow Tennessee warblers flitted about the deck almost within arm's reach. The two other warblers are both strikingly marked birds in full adult male plumage, but are both difficult to recognize in their juvenile dress. One, the bay-breasted, in this phase resembles strikingly the black-poll warbler in its autumnal phase, but the individual who displayed itself to my delighted gaze and turned with great accom- modation first one side and then the other to me, showed a faint streak of reddish brown or bay on each side. The last of this group, a Cape May warbler, I saw at four different times and places in the grove, and I am still in doubt whether it was al- ways the same bird or four different ones. It is perhaps safe to say that there were at least two individuals. The Cape May warbler in juvenile plumage has but the faintest traces of the tiger- like markings on its face, and, with its spotted sides and yellow rump, it resembles rather closely the maiinolia warbler in the same stage. The 20 BEACH GRASS black spots are less black and the yellow of the breast less vivid than in the magnolia warbler, and, instead of having a subterminal band of white on its tail, the Cape May has white on the outside feathers only. Warblers are fascinating birds and form an in- teresting and clearly marked group. They are abundant not only in number of individuals but in number of species. In the full nuptial plum- age of spring and early summer many of them are as striking in the brilliancy of their coloring and markings as some of the tropical orchids. One would suppose they would be well known by those who live in or visit the country, but it is an astonishing fact that they are rarely seen except by those who look for them and have cul- tivated habits of observation. I am confident that many people would have walked through this grove of mine, filled with birds as it was, and seen none there, or have noticed a few "spar- rows." Sometimes a brilliantly arrayed war- bler, perhaps a redstart or a magnolia warbler, species which pour through our groves in thou- sands, suddenly pops out within a few feet of IN THE DUNES 21 such a person, directly in their field of vision so that they actually see it and can not help them- selves, and they report they have seen "a most extraordinary bird, doubtless a waif blown from the tropics." As to the call notes and song of warblers, they are as if they did not exist to such a person. Even if he is silent and does not drown out the bird voices by his own, his audi- tory apparatus appears to be insensible to the notes of warblers and of nearly all other birds. However, he does not realize his loss. In the group of thrushes, four representatives were present in this oasis, namely the robin and veery and olive-backed and gray-cheeked thrushes. The last named bird looked so small I am inclined to think it was a Bicknell's rather than an Alice's thrush. These two birds are alike in plumage with gray cheeks, but the Bick- nell's is a little bit smaller. A solitary vireo with his dark, slate-blue head and his white eye-rings appeared at close range. In the sparrow family, juncos with their twitter- ing notes and flashing white tail feathers were most in evidence. The whistling call of the 22 BEACH GRASS white-throated sparrow came out of the thicket and it was apparent they were present in consid- erable numbers. Although both of these birds have on rare occasions bred as far south as Essex County, it is unusual to find them in numbers at such an early date in the fall. A few Savannah sparrows and goldfinches completed the list of twenty-two different species in this circumscribed area. A half a dozen more species are, however, to be added as they were seen or heard as they flew over: namely, purple finch, tree and barn swallow, herring gull, pipit, and duck hawk. The hawk struck terror to all the birds in the grove as he skimmed low over the trees, but my presence, probably, prevented a catastrophe. Nearly all the twenty-eight species enumer- ated were birds that are not found in summer in this sand dune region and it is probable that even the Maryland yellow-throat, robin, song and Savannah sparrows, purple finches, and gold- finches, tree and bam swallows were also mi- grants from the North. Let it not be supposed that all my nights spent IN THE DUNES 23 in the sand dunes have been as poetical as the fore- going. Two stand out in my memory that were far from it. On one of these, in a summer of plentiful rains, I fashioned my mold in the lee of a clump of beach grass on the top of a dune and composed myself to sleep. But, alas, mos- quitoes in great multitudes gathered about my devoted head. Oil of citronella, plentifully ap- plied, failed to deter them — I could hear them splashing in it on my face. Their actions re- minded me of Labrador. A move to the breezy side of the grass in a seal-like manner, by squirm- ing and flopping in my sleeping-bag was equally unsuccessful. I then took up my bed and walked to what I considered the most wind- swept spot on the side of the dune. But, as grains of sand driven by the wind come to rest behind any obstruction, so the mosquitoes gath- ered in my lee and proceeded to the slaughter. I tried several equally unsuccessful moves during the night which was also enlivened by several showers. On another occasion when the wind was a gen- tle and a warm one from the southwest, I went 24 BEACH GRASS to sleep on the northerly side of a dune, very comfortably wrapt in a thin blanket. In a few hours I was awakened, chilled to the marrow of my bones by a strong wind from the cold north- west. Several times that night I moved, chased around the dune by the searching and changeable wind, and always cold. To complete my dis- comfiture, my mug of hot coffee at breakfast, which I had tasted only in anticipation, over- turned and the delectable fluid sank into the il- limitable sand. I must, however, have had con- siderable sleep on both of these nights as I felt fresh and rested the next day, and I suffered no ill effects in this germless air from being, on the second occasion, so thoroughly chilled. I was certainly cold but caught no cold. It has been said with truth that adventures are generally due to insufficient preparation. If I had brought a head-net on the first night and more bed clothing on the second, I should have had no adventures to relate. The most inspiring and exciting sound made by migrating birds is that which comes from a flock of Canada geese. In the distance a faint IN THE DUNES 25 sound is heard, it comes nearer and nearer — the sound of many voices — of hounds in the chase, of brazen instruments, the honking of geese, a multitude talking at once. The sound grows louder and louder. I rush out of a bushy thicket, where the trees obscure the sky, and climb to the peak of the nearest dune. Here come the birds, a hundred or more of them, now in a long line abreast, now in perfect V-shape, now massing together in a loose flock. They sweep on in glorious strength of wing and pass overhead and the babel of tongues is almost a deafening clangor, and the sight of the great birds, each with his long neck stretched eagerly towards his home in the northland, becomes an inspiration. The voices grow less loud, become faint and occasional and then cease. All is quiet again but the sight and the sound of this migrat- mg flock are long to be treasured in the memory. "How oft against the sunset sky or moon I watched that moving zig-zag of spread wings In unforgotten autumns gone too soon. In unforgotten springs! 26 BEACH GRASS ''Creatures of desolation! Far they fly Above all lands bound by the curling foam. In misty fens, wild moors and trackless sky These wild things have their home, ''Dark flying rune against the western glow It tells the sweep and loneliness of things, Symbol of autumns vanished long ago, Symbol of coming springs^ The work of the Audubon Societies is bearing fruit. No longer are the plumes torn from the nesting egret. The bird is increasing again in numbers and, after the breeding season in the South, occasionally wanders to the North. In the last dozen years there have been several incur- sions of this great bird from the South. On an October day in 1919 I was so fortunate as to flush one of these splendid birds from a bog in the dunes. Pure white with the exception of black legs and yellow bill, as large as the great blue heron, it was an impressive sight as it rose, slowly doubled up its long neck, extended behind its black legs, and flew out over the marshes. An hour later, from my house, I discovered it wad- IN THE DUNES 27 ing about in the tide on the marshes. Fifteen years ago this bird, if discovered by a gunner, would have been shot and taken to a taxidermist to be stuffed. Now-a-days these birds give joy to an increasing class of nature lovers, and they are able to repeat their visits. In the summer of iy2i, no less than six of these beautiful birds were to be seen in the salt marshes. An interesting migration day in the dunes fell to my lot in mid-March. Some six short-eared owls were tarrying on their way North. Never before had I seen more than two in a day's travel in the dunes. The seaside grasshopper and toad, the Ipswich sparrow and piping plover are well adapted to concealment in the sand, but the short-eared owl surpasses them all. Like them it is somewhat sandy colored, but it bears at times a most striking resemblance to a lichen-crusted stump or a snow-flecked bit of driftwood. An ornithological friend was enjoying with me the sight of these birds and commented on their close resemblance to stumps as they sat on the dunes amid tufts of beach grass. One of them we had watched and seen fly away, and, after we had re- 28 BEACH GRASS marked that an obvious stump near, with patches of snow on it, closely resembled a sitting owl, the stump opened its wings and flew away I That great owl from the white North, the snowy owl, I have been privileged to see a num- ber of times in the dunes, and have described some of these encounters in "Sand Dunes and Salt Marshes." On a January day in 1913 I saw one of these great birds, a rather dark in- dividual, sitting on a dune top near Eagle Dune. I stalked him within fifty yards, when he arose, and, in the strong wind, poised motionless like a kite. His great wings and tail were spread to the full extent and the tips of the larger feathers of the wings were bent up with the air pressure. Alternately gliding and flapping, he skimmed low over the beach grass, occasionally stretching his neck and lifting his great round head above the level of the back and looking about. Twice he alighted on the dunes, sitting not erect as this bird is usually depicted, but with body inclined at the angle of about forty-five degrees. The next December I watched another snowy owl in .;-i»lk'' ^'^-rW^ ' ^^^^^''V •■'•*^«' "^^\ ^ _,'»k .;^^n9P^ i ; ^:'Ml?i:'<- ■. ' YOUNG LONG-EARED OWL ANCIENT WtLLOW IN THE DUNES 29 the dunes mobbed by a large flock of snow bunt- ings that swirled about him and darted down toward him as he sat serene on a dune top. The only time I have seen this bird alight in a tree was on a December day in 1918 when one flew over the marshes within plain sight of my house, cHud perched on the tallest tree on a marsh island. In June, 1917, a pair of long-eared owls nested in the pitch pine grove to the northeast of Wig- wam Hill. They occupied an old crow's nest in a pine about twenty feet from the ground, and brought up three solemn looking young that were at first clad in white down. Their faces were dark and their downy ear tufts were plainly vis- ible even at this early age. One of the old birds flew anxiously about among the trees, uttering low, complaining notes which suggested the bark- ing of a puppy. The interesting fact about this family of owls was their diet, and of this they made a very good record in the numerous pellets of undigested food that they cast up and were found around the foot of the tree. Their habits were not hygienic, for the nest itself was covered, several layers deep, 30 BEACH GRASS like stratifications, with the fur, feathers, and bones of their victims. All of these I collected with care after the birds had left the nest, and sent them to the Biological Survey in Washing- ton for identification. The result was most sur- prising and is interesting to record here. This family of owls had been fed on two red-winged blackbirds, one each of the following kinds of sparrows — the sharp-tailed, Savannah, vesper and chipping — on two song sparrows, one che- wink, one pine warbler, one Maryland yellow- throat and two other unidentified warblers, two thrushes, a brown thrasher and four other small birds not identified; also on three short-tailed shrews, one white-footed mouse, eleven jumping mice, and eleven meadow mice. In other words, the refuse from the owl table showed that over thirteen different kinds of birds had been eaten and twenty-three individuals; also four species of mammals and twenty-five individuals. Fisher in his classic on the "Hawks and Owls of the United States" says: *'The Long-eared Owl is one of our most beneficial species, destroy- ing vast numbers of injurious rodents and seldom IN THE DUNES 31 touching insectivorous birds." This dune fam- ily belongs in another category, and Mr. E. \N'. Nelson of the Biological Survey, commenting on these findings, wrote me that "It is very unusual to find the long-eared owl feeding upon birds to such an extent. In a large number of pellets ex- amined from winter roosts of these birds, we have found the bird remains making up consid- erably less than ten per cent, of the total animal contents. The owls in question must have had exceptional opportunities to secure birds, and the breeding season may also have had some effect in producing this habit." The Ipswich dunes are, as I have always maintained, particularly good regions for birds, and these owls seem to have had the instincts of collectors. There are several heronries near Ipswich, one at Plum Island, one at Hamilton, one at North Beverly, but an interesting and, I believe, the largest is one I have watched from its beginning in a grove in the Ipswich dunes. This grove is composed almost entirely of pitch pines, but there are a few white birches and white maples among them. The fishing is good in the neigh- 32 BEACH GRASS boring creeks and estuaries, and night herons from distant heronries have been in the habit of taking their noonday siestas in these trees for many years. In the summer of 1916, I found several pairs had nested there, and counted twenty-five nests. In 1917, I counted one hun- dred and sixty-seven nests, and, as the number of birds was rapidly increasing, I determined, in 1918, to make a careful census of nests after the birds had flown. With the help of two boys, I began one cold December day to count the nests in each tree, and, that we might not count the same tree twice, we tied a white string around the trunk of each counted tree. This proved slow work and very cold for the fingers. As there was a light snow on the ground, we found that by stamping the snow at the foot of the trunk, we could quickly and effectually mark the tree. In this way the count was accurate as far as it went, but we probably overlooked a few trees on the periphery of the roost. Here are the results: 492 nesting trees containing one to eight nests each, and a total of 761 nests. The nests varied in size from thin, flimsy affairs to NIGHT HERONS NESTS NIGHT herons' NEST WITH EGGS 1 IN THE DUNES 33 thick bulky masses of twigs so completely inter- woven as to stand a good deal of rough handling without coming to pieces. The point of vantage from which to view the heronry at the height of the season is from the top of Wigwam Hill. Below stretch the green tops of the pines, dotted, as with splendid white blossoms, by the beautiful birds that stand on the tree-tops near their nests and brooding mates. When one enters the heronry on foot, the scene is not so enchanting, and one's ears are assailed by strange and discordant sounds, one's nostrils by odors ancient and hshlike. Everything is whitewashed here and one must be wary. By watching the actions of the nearly naked young birds that climb about the branches, one becomes convinced of their recent reptilian ancestry. Tragedies among the young are common as shown in the mummified corpses, caught by the neck in the crotch of branches and swinging as though from gibbets. Foxes get good hunting in this region. The inception and growth of this heronry has been most interesting and well illustrates the ad- 34 BEACH GRASS vantages of protection. A still more striking change has taken place in this region in the case of terns, the swallows of the sea. Fifty years ago terns of various species laid their eggs on the sand of Ipswich beach above the tides. Common, arctic and least terns formed an inter- esting colony which was described in 1870 in his ''Naturalist's Guide" by Charles J. Maynard, the discoverer of the Ipswich sparrow. Wanton per- secution by gunners, the shooting of the birds in sport and the taking of the eggs for food and as curiosities, and, above all, the systematic slaugh- ter for millinery purposes extirpated these birds here, and brought them to the verge of extinction along the whole Atlantic coast. As regards the subject of bird protection, it is interesting and encouraging to compare the state of mind and moral sense of people in general at that time and today. The sportsman, with a long autumn, winter and spring season, as a rule respected the close season for game birds, but for birds, whose value today is admitted to be largely aesthetic, he thought nothing. If he ex- terminated them, there was no regret. They IN THE DUNES 35 were of no use, and, if they afforded good flying marks, as did the terns, he had no scruples about shooting them and leaving their beautiful bodies, mangled and blood-stained, where they fell. He did not even take the trouble to kill wounded birds that had thus served as his target. If he had feminine friends or relatives who would ap- preciate the graceful wings for their hats, he felt even virtuous in destroying the birds for these trophies and the women thought no ill of the practice. TTie fact that it was the fashion to wear these wings in the hats dulled all thought on the subject. The men who went into the business of supplying the greedy millinery trade felt that the cruelty involved, if they thought of it at all, and the possible total destruction of the birds, was fully justified by the dollars received. If the adult terns were more easily shot when their nests were invaded or their young put in danger, then it was laudable to take advantage of these circumstances. Any one having scru- ples on this point was an unreasonable senti- mentalist and did not deserve the rewards of business. 36 BEACH GRASS Today all this is changed. Thanks to broader views and the teachings of ornithologists in gen- eral and of the Audubon Societies in particular, and by reason of laws enacted through their ef- forts, people are beginning to realize the justice and importance of preserving these birds. Their sense of moral fitness has been aroused, they be- gin to feel the value of the birds from a purely aesthetic point of view as adding beauty and in- terest to the landscape, although few realize the importance of preserving them as a sacred trust for future generations. In 1921, by the middle of May, terns had be- come common at Ipswich beach, arriving from the South. On June 12 there were over three hundred there, mostly the common species but a few roseate terns were to be seen. This latter species is easily distinguished from the common tern by its longer, slimmer shape, by its bill which is wholly black, instead of being red with a black tip, and by its voice, for it emits at fre- quent intervals a rather sweet double plover-like note — tu-wit — and a loud harsh scream that closely resembles that made by tearing cloth. IN THE DUNES 37 On this June day I sat on the sand within sixty yards of a flock of over a hundred terns that had alighted on the water's edge. It was at once apparent that the birds were preparing to breed, as many of them were engaged in active courtship. As the sexes are alike in plumage one could distinguish the males from the females only by their actions, but these actions were distinc- tive. With short mincing steps a male would strut before a demure female. His puffed out neck and his head were stretched up to the full extent, and his open bill was continually vibrat- ing as he uttered rasping crrrs. His long tail was cocked up between the wings which were ex- tended from the body so that the shoulders stuck out nearly horizontally. At times he side- stepped, at times he pirouetted. Sometimes two or more males were acting thus in a group by themselves, as if each were trying to outvy the others. Sometimes two would fly at each other on the beach like game-cocks and rise and con- tinue the flght in the air. Again a male would return from fishing with a sand-lance drooped from his bill, and, after eluding rivals who 38 BEACH GRASS sought to take the fish from him, he would alight close to his beloved one and present her with the choice morsel, following up his gift with court- ship antics. She, meanwhile, calmly and ap- parently without the least concern for him, swal- lowed the tidbit. I fully expected to find the terns laying their eggs above the beach after such actions, but, no, they left for other regions. I feel, however, that it is only a question of a short time before the terns return to their own. and again nest at Ips- wich beach. For many years I had enjoyed squatters' rights in the dunes in the possession of a camp. This was situated in the grove just described which had furnished such a wealth of migrating birds. It is near the southern end of the dunes, equi- distant from the sea beach on the outside and the beach of the estuary on the inside. In this camp, and in tents near at hand, my family, some young friends, a poll-parrot, a canary bird and I spent August in 1912. We lived to a certain ex- tent off the land and water. Fish, the common clams and the larger sea clams, furnished much IN THE DUNES 39 of our food, and blackberries were abundant. A pump in the camp brought us sweet, cold water from a driven well of thirty feet, in which the water level was just below the surface of the sand. Dead wood in the grove and driftwood on the beach furnished our fire. Our bathtub was the Atlantic ocean. We generally slept in our tents and in the camp in the grove, but at times, as the mood seized us, around our camp fire on the top of a dune, or on the edge of the sea beach. The gulls and terns and sandpipers were our constant companions. We lived a free and open-air existence on the sand and in the water, and we were well sunned, sanded, and salted. Many changes have taken place since that day. The squatters are banished and their camps are no more. Some of the shanties have been re- moved bodily or in pieces by water, others like 'The Vendome," have been covered by the blow- ing sand. A longer lease of life was granted to my camp, but, in its isolation, it had been bat- tered and looted by wandering clammers, and the dunes are rapidly advancing to its destruction. 40 BEACH GRASS The greater part of the grove of trees has dis- appeared— their dead tops may still be seen in places nearly a hundred yards off in the sterile dune. Already the sand is creeping close to the house, and it is doomed. But it is better so. There are all too few sea- shore regions that are unspoiled by the hand of man and those few are rapidly disappearing. The electric car and the automobile bring people in crowds to the seashore. A region of sand dunes is covered with summer houses, tin cans and Sunday newspapers, detestable to birds and bird-lovers alike. Fortunate indeed are the birds and bird-lovers who can wander in a region un- marred and "unimproved," and grateful are they to any one who can order such a state of affairs. May it always remain sol CHAPTER II Tracks in the Sand ''In the sand of the hillocks by the loud sounding ocean He followed their tracks at the break of the day.'' — Anon. IN "Sand Dunes and Salt Marshes" I had something to say of tracks and tracking in the dunes, illustrated by photographs. Since this book was published I have continued with ever increasing interest to track the deer and the fox, the skunk and the mouse, the gull and the crow, the toad and the grasshopper and others of their ilk in the dunes, and shall here record some of my findings. One never knows where one may come on an interesting story in the sand or one requiring some ingenuity to unravel. Deer tracks are common in the dunes. In 1913, I wrote that this animal "thanks to the well enforced protective laws, is more abundant in densely settled eastern Massachusetts than it has 41 42 BEACH GRASS been for over a hundred years, and it is possible that in some localities it is even more abundant than has ever been the case. For not only has white man ceased to persecute the deer, but he has eliminated its natural enemies, such as wolves, lynxes and panthers, as well as Indians." Since 1912, there has been an open season every fall of six days and the slaughter of deer at first was so great that they were all but exterminated from this region. In nine years two hundred and twenty deer were shot in Essex County. Of late years the deer have increased again, and, although rarely seen, give evidence by their tracks of much night wandering in the dunes. Sometimes the tracks go straight, as if the animal had his objective point clearly in mind. As he walks his split hoof — his third and fourth toes — curve together so that they nearly meet. Each hind foot falls so exactly into the track of the fore foot that a duplication of marks is rarely seen. When he runs and bounds, the split hoof spreads with the harder impact of the jumps, and the third and fourth toes make almost parallel or even diverging, instead of converging marks. At TRACKS OF DEER WALKING IN HARD SAND TRACKS OF SAME DEER RUNNING IN SOFT SAND DEER TRACKS IN HARD SAND DEER TRACKS IN HARD SAND DEER TRACKS IN SOFT SAND TRACKS OF DOE AND FAWN ABOUT WATER-HOLE TRACKS IN THE SAND 43 these times, especially if the sand be soft, the marks of the dew-claws, rudiments of hoofs on the second and hfth toes, reach the sand and leave their imprint, a reminder of the ancestral four- toed condition. The tracks of fawns show that they commonly run beside the doe but in a less sedate manner, taking side trips and returning, and occasionally, in the exuberance of their childish spirits, bound- ing up into the air, perhaps sideways, and coming down with all four feet near together. The study of the tracks of these creatures is interesting, even if one does not catch a sight of the makers. One July day I noticed the fresh tracks of a large stag near the lighthouse, and picked them up again two miles or more down the beach where the animal was trotting from the dunes towards the water. It was then nine o'clock in the morning and dead low tide. The tracks showed that the stag stopped at about six o'clock at the edge of the half ebbed tide. Turn- ing about he forded a little inlet, dry at low tide, but at six o'clock full of water as shown by the absence of tracks in its bed, and by the splash 44 BEACH GRASS and drop marks on the sand where he stepped out on the beach. I followed his tracks, which were as clear-cut as if in clay, in the damp sand, but merely shallow cup-shaped depressions without form in the hot dry sand. Instead of going inland he had skirted the edge of the dunes at the beach for nearly a mile, only once going back a few rods into the dunes. Passing the high peak of Eagle Dune, he turned abruptly down towards the water, and, at about half tide, his tracks disappeared in the wash of the waves. I searched farther down the beach for his re- turn tracks but, seeing none, I retraced my steps and found he must have walked back about fifty yards up the beach in the water, and had then trotted straight away from the beach, over the side of Eagle Dune and into the bogs and thickets of the interior. He had probably got the wind of some campers farther down the beach. Doubtless many times deer are passed unseen in bushy cranberry bogs. These afford good cover for restful days after nights of wandering, of play and of feeding. One June day I fol- TRACKS IN THE SAND 45 lowed the tracks of a moderate-sized deer in the dunes. It is a pleasant and harmless way to hunt deer and good sport. Over sand hills and through hollows they led me. The deer had ajv peared especially to enjoy splashing through pools of water. At last I started a doe from a clump of bushes in a cranberry bog, she threw up her white tail-flag and bounded off. Stop- ping on the side of a dune, a picture of ex- ceeding beauty in a setting of glistening sand, she watched me calmlyand unafraid, for she had lowered her flag. Suddenly her flag went up and away she sped. The white tail-flag is a sure indication of fear. In this case the sound of my approach may have frightened the doe. Later she paused to look at me, and, with her imper- fect sight, did not recognize her arch-enemy man. A passing breeze brought the scent and she at once displayed her warning. If any other deer saw it they would have understood and flashed the same signal. Further observa- tion and thought on this subject had more fully confirmed the views previously expressed that the white flag is a danger signal, and that it al- 46 BEACH GRASS ways advertises and never conceals its owner. On a February day, with wind in my favor, I watched a couple of deer trotting together through the dunes towards the beach. Looking over the last wave of sand towards the beach, they were evidently alarmed, perhaps by a fancied or real scent from a human being, to me invisible, threw up their flags, turned inland but changing their minds, trotted in my direction just inside the beach. I ran down to head them off but they passed me within eighty yards, bounding prettily over the beach grass. One of their leaps measured twelve feet. Such lovely pictures of wild life remain long in the memory. A few more are worth mention- ing. One afternoon in mid-summer while sail- ing at high tide down the Castleneck estuary we saw a beautiful doe, very red and large, walking slowly along the edge of the water by the Ven- dome dune. Soon she turned inland and dis- appeared beyond the dune. We landed and crept to the top of the ridge and looked over. There she stood, not over seventy yards away on the white expanse of sand with her tail to- TRACKS IN THE SAND 47 wards us and her head turned to look at us — a beautiful sight. She then trotted and bounded off but her tail was down; she was not frightened; she did not have our wind and she had not really seen us, — or did she recognize us as friends'? I discovered another doe on a September day, wandering about the marsh near the dunes to the windward of me and about three hundred yards away. She occasionally fed in the grass but kept looking up, once directly at me. From time to time she shook her tail nervously but never spread the alarm. Gracefully jumping a creek she startled a pheasant and watched it flying away. At last she disappeared in the thickets of the dunes. On a bright October day a doe emerged from a dune bog and stood within fifty yards of me to windward. As she slowly trotted off, two fawns followed her, walking most charmingly side by side. I said twins, but immediately afterwards appeared a third fawn. Could they have been triplets or were they merely friends, the children of two or three parents'? On a winter's day in a sunny nook of a pine 48 BEACH GRASS thicket in the dunes I was listening to the sizzling of bacon in my frying-pan. Suddenly I was aroused from my pleasant anticipations by the sound of crashing among the bushes, and, looking up, I saw the white tails of two deer vanishing in the gloom of the timber. Whether I saw the forms of the deer themselves or merely imagined I did, can not be set down here with certitude, but I doubt very much if I should have seen the deer at all, had it not been for their conspicuous alarm signals. On a cold February day I followed the tracks of a deer that ascended the narrow ridge of a dune. The other side of the dune went down steeply and was covered with glare ice, except in one place where hard snow gave my snowshoes a foot-hold. The deer, however, had kept on his course and had descended over the ice. There were deep and long furrows in the snows at the foot of the slide, scratches on the ice and an abundance of rubbed-off deer's hairs. It was plain he had fallen and slid on his side. Deer are not so very wise after all, I reflected; they are very human. TRACKS IN THE SAND 49 Foxes continue to be common in the Ipswich dunes and furnish food for thought in their tracks and actions. Their clean-cut footmarks with the two long pointed toes extending out in front are generally characteristic. In soft sand, however, where the imprint is not clearly marked, this feature is often lost and the print appears as round as that of an ordinary dog. In deep sand rarely, more often in deep snow, the fox occasionally leaves a mark made by the slight dragging of a foot. This mark is not made by the tail, which, as far as my observation goes, is always held tidily above the surface of the ground. His beautiful brush would be sadly worn if he allowed it to drag in the sand. With two of the habits of the fox, not before referred to by me, I have become familiar in the last few years. One of these is their habit of dig- ging for water. The water level in the dunes varies. In wet years all the deeper depression ponds, and the water is stained brown from vege- tation. In the depressions free from vegetation the water is clear and green. As the spring and summer advances the level of the water sinks, and 50 BEACH GRASS successive terraces of small rushes or other vegeta- tion mark the receding shore line. In dry seasons there is no water to be found in the dunes, but one needs to dig but a few inches in these hollows, and clean, sweet water seeps into the pit. The fox has also learned this trick and it is not uncommon to find small water-holes, dug by foxes as shown by their scratch-marks and tracks. These water-holes are taken advantage of by other creatures and deer tracks and crow tracks are often found near them. Another habit of the fox in the dunes is digging for grubs and cutworms at the roots of the grass. While the skunk makes a shallow, roundish hole, the fox is likely to make a deeper, narrow hole. I have seen a number of these holes together and plenty of fox tracks, showing clearly their origin. The habit does not seem to be as common as with the skunk that pits the dunes for this purpose much more extensively. All is game to the fox as my studies of the droppings previously related showed. One Febru- ary day I noticed many fox tracks near a curl- ing snow drift, a drop of blood, a tuft of rabbit's FOX TRACKS AND RIPPLE-MARKS FOX DIGGINGS lOR GRUBS W4^.h DEAD LOON WITH TRACKS OF CROW, SKUNK AND FOX CATERPILLAR TRACKS ON STEEP SIDE OF DUNE TRACKS IN THE SAND 51 fur and part of the entrails of that animal. A fox caught in a muskrat runway had his stomac h full of muskrat fur. On one occasion I was fol- lowing the tracks of a white-footed mouse. These were joined by those of a fox. There were some irregular jumps on the part of the fox and the mouse tracks vanished. Again I found the body of a herring gull on the beach with head torn off and much of the flesh gone. It was surrounded by tracks of both fox and crow, but I venture to affirm that these two were not companions at the feast. A dead creature on the beach always attracts the scavengers. A big loon thrown up at the top of the tide was surrounded by tracks in which those of crow, fox and skunk could easily be rec- ognized. The skunk had ambled up in the night from low water and was making for the dunes twenty feet to leeward of the loon; suddenly he stopped, "skidding" a little, turned at right angles and trotted directly to the loon. The loon was re- centy dead, a wounded bird, no doubt, that had escaped the clutches of the gunner. It showed no mark of tooth or claw, but had been inspected 52 BEACH GRASS only, and left until it was more tender eating. The fox had kicked up sand over it and there was the mark of his foot in the sand on the loon's back. As one follows fox tracks through the dunes one can sometimes notice the strong foxy odor resembling closely that of a skunk. It is not a pleasant odor, but, in recognizing it, one feels a primitive sort of satisfaction in the keenness of his perceptions. On a still cold day in the woods of Castle Hill I smelt the foxy odor very plainly, and noticed the fresh tracks of a fox in the light dry snow. It was a perfect day for tracking and I set out to follow. The chase led me up and down hill, through woods and thickets and open fields in the course of which I learned sev- eral things. The tracks were clear-cut and slen- der, pointed in front and showing the knob of a hind toe behind. The back feet were so exactly placed in the marks of the forefeet that the prints appeared to be of only one foot. There was no dragging nor scuffing. The signs at stumps on one side or the other of the trail showed that it was a male or dog fox that I was following. At TRACKS IN THE SAND 53 these places the foxy odor was particularly strong. His course was generally direct but he had turned aside to investigate every hole. He had examined both ends of a small culvert under- neath the wood-road and he had paused to drink at a brook. Arrived at a wire fence for sheep he had, without hesitation and very deftly, jumped through one of the small square openings between the wires. On emerging from the en- closure he had run up over the hill to the tracks of another fox. In these he stepped so carefully that the tracks appeared to be those of only one fox. After thirty yards of this Indian file, the tracks separated, one going to the left, the other to the right. I followed the latter, and from in- dications that were found later, it is evident that I had unwittingly abandoned the chase of the dog fox and was on the trail of a female fox or vixen. The lady soon turned aside and scratched away the snow and pine needles at the foot of a tree, and, if one were to judge from the feathers, she had discovered a crow and a dead one, tor there were no crow tracks near. Immediately 54 BEACH GRASS on leaving this find, the tracks showed a groove at intervals on the left side, as if the booty had dragged at times in the snow. Turning aside from the path, she had started up the hill in the open field. A disturbed place in the snow, nu- merous and irregular marks of foxes' feet and a multitude of crow's feathers scattered about, suggested that the fox had laid down the crow, and had partially or wholly devoured it. As there seemed to be something under the snow at this point, I dug down, and there in a smooth cup-shaped depression was — not the remains of a crow as I had expected — but the half of a freshly killed cottontail rabbit. The head and foreshoulders were gone, but the skin was as neatly rounded over the stump of the body, and the fur was as smooth as if an expert furrier had sewed up the gaping wound. After carefully covering up the half rabbit, the fox had trotted a few yards further, climbed a boulder in the field and sat down to survey her cache. From the rock she had jumped three or four feet to the ground, ambled across the field and entered the woods. There were now no TRACKS IN THE SAND SS side marks to distinguish her tracks which were soon lost in the maze of others among the trees. That the fox himself depends on his nose much more than on his eyes, I have often demonstrated but never so clearly as on a midwinter day when, walking along the beach at low tide, I made out a fox half a mile ahead of me, ambling about on the upper beach. Once he layed down in the sand and bit at his back as a dog does when hunting fleas. Soon he ran over the hard wet beach to the edge of the water, scanning every bit of seaweed or driftwood on his way. The wind was blowing from the sea to the dunes so that it would have been impossible to stalk him from the dunes. I therefore decided to test his eyesight and walked straight towards him along the beach where he would not get my wind. I was in plain sight, but, although he apparently looked at me as I approached, it was not until I was within a hundred yards of him that he sprang forward, ran up the beach like the wind and dis- appeared in the dunes. No tracks were to be seen on the hard surface of the sand until his initial spring. * S6 BEACH GRASS It may be said that this fox really saw me and was playing with me as foxes sometimes do, and thus allowed me to approach as I did. I hardly think this was the case, for, until the final spring and straightaway run, he showed no evidence of realizing what I was, and did not run along the beach ahead of me as would have been the case if he were trying to decoy me on in play. The beach is a good feeding ground for the fox, but his visits to this region at low tide — broad as it is and lacking in any shelter — are gen- erally made at night and are unseen in the dark- ness. If the tide is low in the night the tracks of foxes coming up from the beach are common the next morning. At ten o'clock one November morning, when the tide had been low at three and was then an hour in ebb, I came upon the tracks of four foxes that had trotted down from the dunes and were lost in the narrow strip of beach swept clean by the tide. Three of these had trotted down together, the fourth, some fifty yards further off. All four foxes returned to the dunes two or three hundred yards down the beach, TRACKS IN THE SAND 57 two of them side by side. It was probably a family party, and the young were full grown, as all the tracks were about the same size. I once had an opportunity to measure the speed of a fox. As I was motoring along the road one evening at Ipswich, with searchlights burning, a splendid red fox bounded ahead of the automobile, his white tail-tip glistening like a target. He was evidently confused by the lights and darted first to one side and then to the other side of the road, but finally, after a run of about two hundred yards, he turned in to the bushes on the left. In following the chase I had speeded up to thirty miles an hour, but did not gain on him. I have found, by measuring the tracks of another bounding fox, that his feet spread out in a line to a distance of three feet, and that the distance between the jumps was five to seven feet. On a June day I came across a fox's track in the dunes with a deep groove running along close beside it. I followed it for two or three hundred yards till it entered a thicket of poplars not more than thirty or forty yards in circumfer- 58 BEACH GRASS ence in a deep hollow. Before tracing the tracks and groove into the thicket I convinced myself that the groove did not emerge, although there were plenty of out-going fox tracks. On enter- ing the thicket I found a freshly killed night heron, much mangled. The entrails and breast had been eaten. Holding the heron by the body and carrying it five and six inches from the sand, I discovered that its heavy bill made a groove exactly like the one I had been following. The cause of the groove accompanying the fox tracks was evident, but it seemed worth while to discover all I could about this matter. Retracing my steps and the steps of the fox, I finally lost them in the middle of the grove of pitch pines, the seat of the great night heronry. In all, the heron had been carried forty-two hundred paces or fully three quarters of a mile. Now the heron showed by its plumage that it was an immature bird, hatched the year before. It perhaps did not have the cunning of the adults nor their advantageous position in the rookery and it may have been roosting on the ground and was sprung upon and killed by the fox. TRACKS IN THE SAND 59 Another very interesting fact developed. I noticed that there were the tracks of two foxes, one a little larger than the other, associated with the groove. As the tracks came out of the heronry on to the clear sand, it was the larger fox that was carrying the bird, while the smaller tracks ran first on one side then on the other. After about a hundred yards of this, the smaller fox took up the burden and carried it the rest of the way, although the larger fox ran along beside, generally very near but occasionally running a little wide. If we assume that the larger fox was the male or dog fox and the smaller one the female or vixen, then the male must have made the killing and, in true savage fashion, have given the booty to his squaw to carry home. It was very easy to follow the tracks with the groove, for although they went nearly directly towards their goal, they avoided all bushy and grassy places, and the groove was plainly visible on the sand. It would have been difficult to carry the body of a heron through bushes or even through grass. At one place the body had been 6o BEACH GRASS dropped on the sand and taken up again in such a way that the groove, which had been on the right side, was now on the left. Within a hun- dred yards of the hollow in which I found the heron, there were numerous tracks of young foxes some of which had come to meet the old ones, and followed them back to the hollow. At the verge of the hollow the heron had been placed on the sand before it was taken into the clump of trees. The whole story was as clear as if I had been present at the parents' return from the chase with the welcome booty, although I did not see hide or hair of this fox family. It was probable that their hole or earth was near by, but I failed to find it. Two young foxes were seen in the dunes a few weeks later by several of my family who had slept on the top of a dune. They awoke in the early morning to see these little creatures rolling over in play within a few yards of them. Suddenly the foxes perceived the human beings, and, with hair on end, they stamped their little feet and barked savagely at the in- truders. TRACKS IN THE SAND 61 On one occasion, I am inclined to think, I saved a pheasant from death by a fox. I was walking on snowshoes just below the brow of Castle Hill when I heard a sharp croak — it was almost a shriek and expressive of great fear — and a hen pheasant flew out of a low, bushy thicket di- rectly towards me. Immediately afterwards a fox ran out of the other side and disappeared over the hill. My explanation of the episode is this : the pheasant was feeding or dozing in the thicket, unmindful of a fox who was creeping to spring at her. The noise of my snowshoes aroused her and, looking up, she caught sight of the fox almost upon her. With a shriek she made off away from the fox, disregarding any other danger. Thus it happened that the pheasant flew towards me, and the fox, debarred of his prize, departed in the other direction. I imagined he looked very disgruntled and that he had the air of one swearing inwardly. Muskrat tracks, easily distinguished by the central groove made by the tail and by the webbed footprints, may occasionally be seen in the dry sand, when the wanderlust seizes these amphibi- 62 BEACH GRASS ous creatures and they travel from one bog to an- other. I have found their spectacular and deco- rative tracks even on the edge of the sea, an un- desirable pond of muskrats. Woodchuck tracks are not often seen in the dunes. The animal prefers to dig his hole in stiff glacial gravel and not in soft, shift- ing sand. The best tracks of his I ever saw in the dunes were in wet sand in a dune hollow — each claw, each wrinkle on the sole of the foot was distinct — but alas I I had no photographic film left with which to secure it. In walking lei- surely the footprints of a woodchuck are near together and the toes are frequently dragged. When in a hurry the animal jumps like a rabbit, although less actively, and the tracks are in fours, the larger hind feet side by side in advance, the ismaller ones back of these and one foot diago- nally behind the other. Not only are the front feet smaller than the hind feet, but they show the marks of only four toes, while the larger back feet have five toes. One of these large tracks I measured was two and a half inches long and one and a half inches broad. The distance be- vj. v ■ *r" « V> .■^ : >>*'vji ^:* ,f*%r ihi^.. ''"■»**fj *\. k ^v ^^- ^''^^MPMM i^^l /; o H < 0. Q < u u Q O o fan O c« U! o <: »; H TRACKS IN THE SAND 63 tween the jumps I found in one case to be two feet, four inches. Woodchucks hibernate in their holes during the winter, and are more consistent about it than skunks whose tracks are often to be seen in the snow on mild winter days. The only time I ever saw a woodchuck walking on snow was on March 14, 1920. There was still much snow on the ground and great icy drifts after a hard winter. On this day I saw a large woodchuck running over the snow near my house. He hid in some bushes but, on my approach, ran on the snow to the middle of the garden, sat still a moment on the drift and then disappeared into it. A round tunnel in the icy snow thirteen inches deep was continued in his hole in the frozen ground. How did he know, sealed up as he was, that it was time to bore through the icy snow and come out? The mild winter of 1920, 1921 was a favor- able one to test the saying that if the woodchuck or ground hog comes out of his hole on Candlemas Day — February 2 — and sees his shadow he goes back to his hole to escape the six weeks of cold and storms to follow — 64 BEACH GRASS "// Candlemas day he dry and fair^ The half o' winter s to come and mair; If Candlemas day be wet and foul^ The half o' winter's gane at Yule.'' Four days after Candlemas, which had been mild and pleasant, I was at Ipswich and dis- covered in a smooth patch of sand on Wigwam Hill the tracks of a woodchuck shown in the photograph. He had undoubtedly seen his shadow for the tracks were subsequent to a shower that had occurred in the morning just be- fore the sun shone. The haste of his progress — rabbit fashion — suggested that he was anxious to return to his hole for six weeks more sleep. The same day the weather grew colder and the following day it snowed, and it snowed occasion- ally afterwards, but on the whole, during the next six weeks, the weather was very mild and there were many days when the ground hog could ven- ture abroad in comfort, if he were not bound to abide by the prophesy of his shadow at the Can- dlemas season. March 6 was an exceptionally mild day, the glass reaching 60°, and the fresh TRACKS IN THE SAND 65 tracks of the ground hog were plainly to be seen. Here then was full proof that the ground hog and his shadow are not to be relied on! Thus are our cherished beliefs overthrown, our idols shattered I Tracks of cottontail rabbits are also uncommon in the dunes, but they are all too common in the snow in pastures and orchards of the upland. They are easily distinguished from those of other animals. The rabbit hops along and lands on his soft feet so disposed that the powerful hind ones are in front and the smaller fore paws between his thighs behind. The marks of the hind feet are side by side in front, those of the forefeet are in a line one behind the other. This pattern always distinguishes the tracks of a cot- tontail from those of a grey squirrel for in the latter case the forefeet like the hind feet are in pairs side by side. Besides this, in the case of the squirrel, the tracks often begin or end at a tree trunk. Rabbits do not climb trees. Like the deer, the cottontail flashes his white tail in fear. They are timid creatures and are always attacked with panic at the sight of man. 66 BEACH GRASS When at ease the tail is down, the white patch does not show. A rabbit on a cart path two hun- dred yards away trotted about at ease, although he apparently looked at me at times, but I doubt if he saw me for his tail was down. Later I came upon him suddenly, the tail went up and all the white hairs there and on his stern seemed to stand on end as in the case of the deer, and flashed out a most prominent signal. It was maintained by the late Abbott Thayer that this white signal, instead of advertising served to obliterate the rabbit by matching the white sky, as seen by the pursuing animal with his eyes close to the ground. One April day, as I was lying on the ground in an orchard, I heard the yapping of some dogs, and a rabbit ran across the field within fifty yards, prominent by reason of his white tail. I could not for a moment imagine this to be obliterative, although I had a dog's view of him. A minute later two terriers came along, following the trail by nose as is their wont and not by eye. There have been other occasions when the tail of the rabbit has been at the height of my eye, as on a side hill, but never did it ap- RABBIT TRACKS GRAY SQUIRREL TRACKS DEAD WHITE-FOOTED MOUSE AND TRACKS I ir J^^^^I^^^^^^^^^BKJ f . 1 1 Wmm •m^ 2^^-^:.y • ■' -5 f ^ . '^^ Y^m*^^ f^ .:y: I^Mfcfe 7^: 1,^^ i Ml '^ 1^- ' SEASIDE GOLDENROD AND SKUNK TRACKS TRACKS IN THE SAND 67 pear in the least obliterative. The cottontail often depends on his concealingly colored coat to escape detection, and we may pass him within a few feet and fail to see his motionless body among the dry leaves. The northern varying hare has no rear white signal and when he lopes off, he looks, to one used to a cottontail, like a cowed animal with tail between the legs. At the lower end of the sand dunes one may find the tracks of that world-wide traveler and pest of mankind, the Norway rat. I have no doubt he voyaged to these shores on sand schoon- ers and left by the convenient gangway. His tracks are in form like a squirrel and his naked feet make clean marks and show well the details. His naked tail grooves the sand at times. His canny nature was well shown one night when I had set traps for small native mice and had laid paths of cornmeal along the sand. The next morning showed the tracks of rats all about, but never nearer than eight or ten inches from the traps. A week later I visited the same locality and no rat tracks were to be found. They had deserted the dangerous region. 68 BEACH GRASS The white-footed mouse also makes tracks like a rabbit and he is apt to have runways or paths where many tracks are to be seen. In going up a slope, the tracks become linear, two together in each print, as if the pretty little creature were trotting. One midwinter day I noticed many tracks about an old ship's timber in the dunes. Beneath it was a nest of dry grass, the size of two fists, from which peeped a very sleepy, white- footed mouse. Tracks of the jumping-mouse are similar but smaller, and often show the tail, switched some- times to one side and sometimes to the other. I measured the tracks of one that had galloped at speed across the sand and made jumps at seven- teen or eighteen inches, and one at nineteen inches. Fortunately for the nesting birds, cats are rarely found in the dunes. One is generally kept at the lighthouse, and she has been so obliging as to make tracks in damp sand for me to photo- graph. About the size of a skunk's tracks, they are easily distinguished from those of any other animal to be met with in these regions by the ab- CAT TRACKS SKUNK TRACKS AND HOLE DUG FOR GRUIiS TRACKS IN THE SAND 69 sence of claw marks. The pads show distinctly, but the feline race keeps the claws concealed in sheathes until they are needed for execution. After a rain, the sand may be so hard packed that the tracks of lighter animals or birds do not show or show only at intervals, so that their interpretation becomes difficult. I have seen the characteristic tracks of a skunk arranged in close linear fashion as he ambled slowly along, or in diagonal lines of fours, as he quickened his pace, change to a single foot mark every two or three feet where the sand was so hard that it only oc- casionally showed an impression. Such a sand surface is well pitted by the rain, a condition shown in several photographs. On the beach sand, hard-packed by the waves, this state of things is not uncommon and a fox may trot along and leave no trace on the hard surface until he springs away in haste. The tracks of sanderlings are often invisible, but their recent presence is plainly shown by the series of curving lines of probings, which are sometimes nearly continuous furrows. A flock of plovers may leave nothing to mark their presence on the 70 BEACH GRASS hard beach but their occasional dabs or probings, irregularly scattered in the sand. Sandpipers keep their heads down and probe the sand system- atically; plovers run about with their heads up and dab here and there. Yellow-legs in the marsh keep their heads up and dab like plovers. In the case of the black-bellied plover, these dabs often show a partly opened bill. I have found the tracks of seals on Ipswich bar, — great grooves and depressions and flipper- marks. The seal still flourishes here, and as re- cently as December, 1919, I counted on the bar seventy-flve of these great animals taking their siestas. It is always a delight to watch these wild creatures, and their presence and numbers when pointed out to the stranger is always the oc- casion for surprise. Thoreau in his "Cape Cod" says : "The Boston papers had never told me that there were seals in the harbor. I had always as- sociated these with the Esquimaux and other out- landish people. Yet from the parlor windows all along the coast you may see families of them sporting on the flats. They were as strange to me as mermen would be." TRACKS IN THE SAND 71 On June 11, 1922, twelve years to the day after my delightful but remote observation of the new-born seal and its mother on a bar off Ipswich beach, related in "Sand Dunes and Salt Marshes," I found a young seal basking in the sun twenty feet above the tide on the beach itself. We saw each other about the same time, but, by quick action on my part, I was able to head him off from the water, and had, for the first time, a chance to study this interesting animal in a wild state at close range. He was a beautiful little creature, sleek and velvety, handsomely marked in black and grey, and ''speckled like a macreil" as were the mer- maids of the ancient arctic explorers. His eyes were large and lustrous, and he "looked ear- nestly" on me. Young as he was, his full upper lip carried a more than man-sized moustache of long, stout and curving bristles. He was thirty inches long and may have weighed twenty pounds. He growled gently when barred from the water, but made no attempt to bite, and allowed himself to be stroked. When I stood aside he made straight for the 72 BEACH GRASS water, arching his back as he lifted himself up on his front flippers which were bent so that his claws dug deep in the sand as he dragged his body along. His hind flippers were as useless for pro- gression as was his short tail. This three-in-one part of his anatomy swayed gently from side to side with his efforts at walking on his hands. The record of a leisurely walk from the water was shown by little flipper-marks in the sand that were only three inches apart, but in his hasty return his front steps, so to speak, were ten inches apart. A marvelous change came over the method of his departure when he entered the water of an incoming wave. The awkward caterpillar humping ceased, and the back flippers came into action so that the body was driven forward with great speed as by a screw propeller, and the seal at once disappeared under the surface. Later his small dark head bobbed up, but at once plunged like an expert swimmer's under a curling wave that was about to overwhelm him. It was a most interesting experience but I have two regrets. I pray for another opportunity to TRACKS IN THE SAND 73 wipe these out, and I trust I may not be obliged to wait for the passage of another twelve years. The first regret is that I did not observe whether the seal used or did not use his front flippers in swimming, when his back ones came into such powerful play, and the second regret is that, alas I I had left my camera at home. Bird tracks in the dunes are most abundant in fall and winter when great flocks of snow bunt- ings and horned larks spread their traceries over the sand. The horned lark always walks or runs and takes long strides, while the snow bunting takes shorter steps and may sometimes hop. The horned lark picks at the pointed stalks of grass from the sand while the snow bunting fre- quently perches on them. In both, as in the case of the Lapland longspur, the mark made by the hind toe and claw is long and well incised. The tracks of a flock of swallows that has rested on a dune top during the fall migrations are puzzling to the uninitiated. The birds do not wander far, as their short legs and long wings interfere with much pedestrian exercise. In fact, their method of locomotion on the ground 74 BEACH GRASS is largely by flutterings, a combined action of wings and feet, although they occasionally walk a few inches without the help of their wings. The feet are held well apart as they shuffle along. As the flocks are made up chiefly of tree swallows, the droppings on the sand generally contain a few bayberry seeds. The swallows often take sun baths, opening and shutting their wings in the early morning on the side of the dune, just as do barn swallows on the sunny side of a roof. Although tracks of shore birds and gulls are more common on the beach, flocks often settle in the dunes and spread their tracks over the sand. One may find in a short compass the tracks of ring-necked plover and herring gull, of skunk and fox, of crow and toad. Savannah sparrow tracks are common at all seasons but winter, while those of its cousin, the Ipswich sparrow are most common in spring and fall, and rare in winter. One would need to be a keen diagnostician to distinguish between the tracks of these two birds, but the Ipswich sparrow is slightly larger and is more of a walker than the -^:%^ 4-. TRACKS OF A HORNED LARK AND OF A LAZY CROW TRACKS OF CROW AND OF YOUNG TOADS n^^ TRACKS OF RING-NECKED PLOVER, OF TOAD, AND OF CROW ALIGHTING -X ■% «? - r "^ TRACKS OF NIGHT HERONS TRACKS IN THE SAND 75 Savannah and, unlike that bird, it very rarely hops. Crows' tracks are common at all seasons of the year and always characteristic. The * 'gouty" toe joints, the lazy habit of dragging one or more toes, the very rare hop, have all been mentioned in my previous publication. In alighting, the feet come down together and the hind toe and even the tarsus may cut the sand. In springing away, the feet together sometimes sink in deeply. In both acts the marks of the wing feathers are often plainly imprinted on the sand. While the adult crow rarely hops, the young do so fre- quently. Hopping is probably the primitive form of locomotion in arboreal birds that jump or hop from limb to limb, while the art of walk- ing is acquired later if the bird frequents the ground. I have watched an adult crow and four full grown young on the beach. The young fre- quently called for food and whenever this was found by the parent, the young, although gen- erally walking, would, at these times, hurry to her with long hops, aiding themselves by spreading their wings. This spreading of the wings to 76 BEACH GRASS glide when a bird hops must have been the prim- itive form of aviation in birds, just as it was the primitive form in man. The early gliding ex- periments of Lillienthal are historical. Near the heronry, the footprints of multitudes of night herons are in evidence, and rarely one comes across the much larger prints of the great blue heron. One of these birds, a sportive indi- vidual, took three broad jumps with feet together before taking flight. The tracks of this heron are more commonly seen on the beach or in the wet places in the dunes, but I retain the picture in my mind of one of these great birds standing like a Japanese bronze on a dune-top silhouetted against the sunset. Toad tracks are sometimes abundant in the dunes, but their numbers are dependent on the amount of water in the bogs in the tadpole sea- son. In August and September one may find multitudes of their curious tracks, most of them of small individuals. Their usual gait is by short jumps only two or three inches long or less, but I have measured the jumps of larger toads that were evidently in a hurry, and had cleared TRACKS IN THE SAND 77 eighteen and even twenty inches. They steer a surprisingly straight course, often over the high- est part of a dune wave. Where they hide themselves by day is always a problem, as it is the rarest thing to discover them in daylight. Even then, they are difficult to see, as they as- similate their color to the sand and are very grey and sandy. They may be found under a log or piece of a wreck, or buried in the sand. One may find in the morning a disturbance in the smooth surface of the sand and tracks of a toad leaving it. The toad must have buried 'himself in the sand in the early morning before, but his tracks lead- ing up to his hiding place were effaced by the wind of the day. That evening he made his exit for his night wandering and pursuit of in- sects, and his tracks of exit were still plainly to be seen in the morning, before the sun had dried the sand and the wind had blotted out the record. Insects weave a delicate tracery over the sand. The seaside locust or grasshopper, colored like the sand so as to be almost invisible when at rest, whirs a long distance away as one walks over the dunes in summer. The multiple footprints 78 BEACH GRASS of his six feet, the groove made by his body and the deep marks in the sand made by his powerful hind feet as he hops away are all characteristic. The tracks of caterpillars on the sand are cu- rious and at times very striking features. They are seen to best advantage when the surface of the sand is pit-marked by rain, for the passage of the caterpillar's body smoothes or planes the surface and the track shows well by contrast. A large woolly-bear caterpillar that I encountered in the dunes one August day was making a straight course with considerable speed over the dry but rain-marked . sand. Its track was half an inch wide and perfectly smooth, for his rough hairs brushed off the irregularities in the sand he traversed. At times a narrow central ridge showed, made by the interval between his pairs of false legs. Where he struggled up an incline, cross lines appeared made by the digging in of his vigorous true legs in front. When I attempted to examine him and put him through his paces on the sand, he curled up in a ball and played possum. It is evident that woolly-bear caterpillars de- TRACKS OF HERRING GUl.I. GRASSHOPPER AND ITS TRACKS AND TRACKS OF SAVANNAH SPARROW TRACKS IN THE SAND 79 pend on their clicvaux-dc-frisc to protect thcni from attack, but this does not always avail. During the fall migrations at Ipswich I once watched within a few feet a hermit thrush pick- ing at a woolly-bear caterpillar on the ground. I soon saw that the thrush's efforts were effec- tively directed, for the hairs were fast disappear- ing from the victim. At last a black, naked worm, entirely devoid of the thick coat of hairs, remained. The hermit thrush then picked his victim up in his bill, swallowed it, flew to a low branch, wagged his tail up and down in his characteristic manner, chucked a few times with satisfaction, and was off. On the steep side of a dune a caterpillar had made repeated efforts to ascend, but losing its foothold in the loose sand had rolled down. Yet, like Bruce's spider, it tried, tried, tried again. The picture in the sand suggested the outline of a jagged mountain range or a temperature chart. CHAPTER III The Beach in Winter ''The wind blew east; we heard the roar Of ocean on his wintry shored — Emerson THE winter of the great frost, so vividly described in Lorna Doone was a memo- rable one. The country people in the Doone Valley, depressed by the snow and cold, heard a hollow moaning sound which they at- tributed to a witch "cursing all the country from the caverns by the sea" and believed that the snow would last until they could catch and down her. "But the land being thoroughly blocked with snow, and the inshore parts of the sea with ice (floating in great fields along) Mother Will- drum (if she it were) had the caverns all to her- self, for there was no getting at her." Severe winters are sure to recur either singly or in a series and they are apt to shake the faith, 80 THE BEACH IN WINTER 81 temporarily at least, of those who say the climate is changing and is much milder than when they were young. Then, according to these wise ones, snow came regularly at Thanksgiving and there was sleighing until the end of March. Meteoro- logical records kept for many years show that mild winters and severe winters occurred a gen- eration ago as they do today, and that the snow- fall has varied irregularly. The average snow- fall in Boston for the winter is 44 inches, but in the winter of 1873-4 it was more than twice this, or 96.4 inches, a little over eight feet. Two years later it was 5.3 inches, the least on record. The winters of 1886-7, of 1903-4 and of 1919—20 were severe winters with a snowfall of 73 inches each year, while in 1888-9, 1900-1, 1908-9 and 1912-13 it was only 20 inches or less. That the arrival of snow did not average earlier a generation or more ago is shown by the fact that the average amount of snowfall up to December in twenty-one years from 1871 to 1892 was 1.8 inches, while in the twenty-two suc- ceeding winters up to 1913, it was 1.9 inches. In the same way if we delve into more ancient 82 BEACH GRASS records we find accounts of mild winters and severe winters, but in the long run, the cold and warm, the dry and wet balance each other, and the general average is the same. Meteorolo- gists believe that there has been no mate- rial change in the climate within historical times. Yet it is a common idea that the climate of New England is growing milder, and when we have much cold and snow, the older people speak of it as an ''old-fashioned winter." The human mind is prone to remember vividly and even to magnify unusual events and seasons, while or- dinary seasons of snowfall are forgotten. Then, too, a snowdrift three feet high, struggled through by a child, assumes gigantic proportions in the memory when the child has reached mature age and size. In our cities a generation ago, the snowfall was not managed as efficiently as it is now, when powerful snow ploughs and gangs of men clear the streets within a few hours of the storm. In former days the snow was allowed to accumulate and remained longer in the way of traffic. An- THE BEACH IN WINTER 83 other cause for self-deception exists with those who have spent their earlier years in inland towns or country where the snowfall is greater and comes earlier than it does in coastal regions. A very few miles often makes a considerable differ- ence. The winters of 1903-4 of 1917-18 and 1919-20 were unusually severe and afforded many interesting phenomena. That of 1917-18, oc- curring during the Great War, will long be re- membered. Captain Howard, the keeper of the light in the Ipswich dunes, was startled at night by loud boomings which shook the plates on his pantry shelves. Visions of German raiders bomb- ing the coast naturally came to his mind, but it was discovered later that the disturbance arose from great frost cracks forming in the sand of the dunes and extending for many yards. In this way miniature earthquakes are caused by the frost. The beach and the sea are of great interest in severe winter weather. Those who know these regions only in the summer have little idea of the changes wrought by the cold. As the tide 84 BEACH GRASS falls, the beach becomes coated with ice of fantastic design. Each receding wave is marked by an arc of frozen foam. In continued cold weather, the coating on the beach gradually builds up, augmented by the icy slush and cakes left by the ebbing tide. All is so solidly frozen to the sand that it remains a bottom ice at flood tide. A shelf of ice may extend a little way out over the water forming, what is called in arctic regions, an ice foot. At times great cakes of ice break away from their anchors and, buoyed up by the water, bring up sand, pebbles, and boulders. After the severe winter of 1917-18 the beach at Ipswich to a distance of two miles below the pebbly and boulder-strewn shore at the foot of Castle Hill, was dotted in places with pebbles and boulders. These must have been carried by the ground ice with the falling tide and dropped later on the sand. One unfamiliar with this winter phenom- enon might be at a loss to explain the presence of a boulder four feet long and about three feet thick that I found on the smooth sand beach, some two miles from the nearest boulder region THE BEACH IN WINTER 85 at the foot of Castle Hill. Two other boulders, nearly as large, were to be found on the beach in this two-mile stretch. How many disap- peared in deep water can not be told. One is apt to think that all boulders have been brought to their present position by glaciers or icebergs which are of glacial origin, but it is evident that they must have sometimes been carried in the past, as these examples show that they are in the pres- ent, by ice not of glacial origin. On the upper edge of the beach is to be found in severe winters the most interesting and strik- ing ice formation, the ice-wall. This is formed partly of small ice cakes and slush ice left at the top of the tide, and partly of snow. It is solidified by the sea-water thrown up by the waves, which, in freezing, cements together the component parts, and builds up the wall higher and higher as the spray and ice is thrown on top. At times the soft slush ice, newly formed on the surface of the ocean, is thrown on top of the wall and fills the hollows with a snow-white mantle which contrasts strongly with the old ice, often dark with sand. This mantle, at first as soft as 86 BEACH GRASS snow, later becomes solidified into a hard frozen mass by the percolating water. The steep side of the ice-wall faces the sea, while the land side slopes off gradually. In storms, and at unusually high tides the sea breaks over and forms a second or even a third ice-wall higher up the beach, but the lower wall is always the sharpest defined and most spectac- ular. Its height varies from a foot or two to ten or twelve feet, dependent on the length and severity of the frost. Against this solid barrier, the waves break at high tide as on a rocky shore, and, as in the latter case, they carve turrets and columns, overhanging shelves, chasms and grottos. Many of the grottos in the ice-wall are extremely beautiful, the walls irregularly honeycombed and studded with crystals and knobs of ice, and the roof hung with icicles. In places, pure white or delicately green or blue, the ice is apt to become soiled with sand thrown up by the waves. A brief thaw may remove the icy coating which holds the sand on the beach, and the waves soon change the color of the ice-wall from white to gray. The contrast between the sand beach. INCIPIENT ICE-WALL AT THE BEACH, JANUARY, I922 THE ICE- WALL AT THE BEACH, JANUARY 6, I918 ICE-WALL UNDERCUT ICE-WALL HONEYCOMBED AND DARKENED WITH SAND THE BEACH IN WINTER 87 smooth and as free from snow and ice as in mid- summer, and the ice-wall at its upper edge makes a surprising picture, but the wall is most beauti- ful when the beach is sealed by an icy coating, and the waves build up the wall undefiled by sand. On one memorable day in midwinter I was at the beach alone and had taken off my snowshoes in order to climb down the wall on to the beach. I found the snowshoes, which are four feet long, useful in the photographs I was taking to give an idea of the height of the wall. Without some measure of comparison, a photograph of a wall a foot high may appear ten times that height, and in the same way a wall of ten feet may appear in a photograph to be onh' a foot high. I have seen a photograph taken of a small cake of floe-ice from the distance of a few feet produce the im- pression on the beholder of an iceberg half a mile away. I was so busy photographing the ice-wall that I had not noticed the rising tide whose waves were almost stilled by their coating of slob ice. With each throb of the sea the 88 BEACH GRASS water was creeping nearer to me over the icy beach, but hidden from view under the soft slush floating on top, and I suddenly found my moccasined feet in the freezing mixture. The ice-wall, smooth and undercut, was unclimable except with ice axe and creepers, but a dash of a hundred yards brought me to a broken place in the wall where I easily ascended to safety. At times the upper edge of the beach is covered thick with flattened ovoids and spheres of ice from a few inches to a foot or two in diameter. Cobblestone ice is an appropriate name for this formation, as it is brought about by the rubbing together of ice cakes thrown around and rolled up and down the beach by the surf. The process is the same as in the much slower formation of cobblestones out of broken fragments of rock. On one occasion I found part of the sea-wall built up of these round pebbles of ice, some small, some large, all tightly cemented together with frozen sea-spray. It was a perfect conglomer- ate or puddingstone, similar in formation to the conglomerate made of beach pebbles in former ages. ICE-WALL, FEBRUARY 8, I92O ICE-WALL, FEBRUARY 29, 1 920 ( PUDDINGSTONE ICE-WALL THE BEACH IN WINTER 89 At the foot of the gravelly cliffs of Castle Hill, where it has been cut away by the sea, the beach is strewn with boulders. On these, in severe weather, ice caps build up still higher until the waves can reach no farther. The waves are arrested at their highest point and turned into pinnacles of ice. The sea itself is wonderfully changed under the influence of the intense cold. Long after the small fresh water ponds are fast bound up with ice, the sea keeps open. The restless waves prevent freezing and the larger body of sea water takes a long period of frost to cool it down to the freezing point, which is 28° Fahrenheit, not 32° as is the case with fresh water. In- stead of forming a thin skim of ice as in quiet regions, the surface of the sea, churned by the ceaseless throb of the waves, becomes milky and suggests sago gruel. The surface ripples vanish, as if quieted by oil, and the waves throb and break with a muffled and sullen roar on the icy beach. Their force is spent under the thick covering of snowy ice. If one scoops up a hand- ful of this he discovers that it is not formed of 90 BEACH GRASS rounded grains as he might imagine but of thin flakes and crystals broken up into small pieces. It is this icy mixture that is left by the receding waves in snowy windrows on the beach, and that serves to build up the ice-wall and fill its hol- lows. One may unexpectedly sink up to the hips in crevasses in the ice-wall filled with the snowy white mass before it is congealed by the cement of freezing water. As the cold continues, the flakes freeze to- gether on the water and form ice cakes of all sizes from an inch to several feet and later many yards in diameter, forming veritable floes. The con- stant heave of the sea prevents, at first, the for- mation of an extensive sheet, but these cakes, rubbing against one another, take on a more or less circular outline with elevated edges. This is the well-known pancake ice of Scoresby and other arctic explorers, — the lolly or slob ice of the Labrador Coast. On February 3, 1918, the ocean, as far as one could see from the beach, was covered with pan- cake ice with here and there a larger piece of solid floe. On some of these, seals were lying, adding THE BEACH IN WINTER 91 to the arctic character of the scene. On one piece of the floe were two seals and one splendid great black-backed gull. Lanes of steel-blue water intersected the snowy surface, and in these, red- breasted mergansers sported, pushing the smaller ice cakes out of their way as they swam. As I was watching a flock of seventy-five of these ducks, with their iridescent green heads and coral red bills, all adult males, — for nearly all the the brown-headed females and young winter in the South, — they laboriously rose from the water, leaving behind them an oblong patch of dark water. There was no wind and the ground swell was so nearly flattened by the ice that but tiny waves broke on the beach. In bits of open water close to shore one could see the ice coating of the beach extending out, beautifully green as seen through the clear sea water. But perhaps the most interesting arctic phe- nomenon of intensely cold weather at the sea- shore is the mist that arises from the sea water — the frost-rime of the older arctic explorers. Captain William Scoresby in his ''Journal of a voyage to the Northern Whale-Fishery" pub- 92 BEACH GRASS lished in 1823 defines frost-rime as "3. sort of fog that appears on the surface of the sea, in severe frosts, produced by the condensation of the vapor arising from the water in consequence of its being piuch warmer than the air." "The sea," he says, ''on occasions of frost-rime is generally about 20 degrees or 30 degrees warmer than the air." He goes on to say, 'T was long in doubt whether the freezing of the sprays and froth of the waves, or the evaporation of the sea, was the cause of the meteor. Having, however, taken a large shallow vessel of water into the open air, and placed it in a situation sheltered from the wind, at a time when the frost-rime was particu- larly dense, the thermometer being at zero, I ob- served that this water, though perfectly still and unruffled, soon began to discharge a thin vapor, resembling the frost-rime, which it continued to give out, until the surface was covered with ice. This experiment convinced me that the cause must be simply evaporation." The sea looks like the scene of a terrible con- flagration. Great smoke-like masses of dark vapor boil up, and lashed by the icy wind, roll in ICE-WALL AND PINNACLED ROCKS ICE-WALL BATTERED BY THE SURF AT HIc;H TIDE FROST-RIME AT THE BEACH ICE GROTTO THE BEACH IN WINTER 93 on to the shore. Here and there spirts of white vapor, resembling puffs of steam, rise up from the water against the background of dark clouds, spin around like water spouts and rapidly drift down wind. As they gradually fade away, they are often renewed by fresh bursts from below. The frost-rime is densest in the night and in the morning and evening hours when the cold is most intense. At midday, under the rays of the sun, except in below zero weather, the cloud disappears. At night, the frost-rime looks from a distance like a dark and sullen mountain range, but it is snow-capped and beautiful to behold when the tops of the range are touched by the rays of the full moon. As one watches from the shore the cloud blow in over the land, it seems to dissipate into thin air, but in reality it is transformed or congealed into countless crystals that sparkle and glow on every blade of dead grass, every dried spray of goldenrod, every branch of brush. On the ice- covered sand the crystals take advantage of every knob and every roughness to begin their growth. They are few and far between where 94 BEACH GRASS the surface of the ice is smooth, but they thickly beset the rough ice. As they build up they form rosettes, if the air is calm, shuttlecocks if there be a wind. The apex of the shuttlecock points down wind, the feathery crystals extending fan- shaped towards it. These rosettes and shuttle- cocks of feathery crystals of ice are of great beauty and scintillate in the bright sunlight. They are winter flowers, lovely in form and coloration. The icicles hanging from the stranded ice cakes and from the roofs of the grottos carved in the sea-wall are furred around with these deli- cate snowy crystals. The sea beach is interest- ing and beautiful at all seasons, and not least in winter. CHAPTER IV Ice and Snow in the Sand Dunes *'Come and see the north-wind's masonry^ — Emerson IT is very unusual for the dunes to be held down by such an unbroken coating of snow and ice, that the blowing of the sand ceases and dune growth and change are stilled. This state of affairs occurred, however, in the winter of 1919-20. The earlier snow- storms of the winter were heavy and wet; the snow fell quietly, coating the sand thickly and freezing into a solid sheet. Later storms added to the accumulation and the dry surface snow blew about and formed drifts that were, for the most part, spotless white and free from contamination with the darker sand which was held prisoner below. Winter is generally the season of greatest movement in the dunes, 95 96 BEACH GRASS for the winds are then the strongest and, as a rule, the snow and sand blow about together, forming gray drifts of mingled sand and snow. In the northern blasts, the conical dunes smoke at the top like wigwams, the cirque dunes are rapidly undercut and build up to leeward and the desert dunes deposit their load of snow and sand on the steep southern side. Often the snow and sand are segregated and form alternate layers, wavy lines and concentric circles, alter- nately gray and white, sometimes in patterns of considerable beauty. On the leeward side of a dune, the southern side in winter, where the sweep from the north is unobstructed by vegetation, masses of snow sometimes accumulate and are buried in successive layers of sand. One of these, which I called glacier dune, I described in "Sand Dunes and Salt Marshes" and told of finding snow there throughout the month of May. One may easily recognize these caches of snow as the spring comes on by the dampness and therefore darkness of the sand over them, but especially by the cracks in the sand. As the snow m.elts below, the sand -^M: ".K DUNES IN WINTER DUNES AFTER ICE-STORM SNOWDRIFT IN DUNES STRATIFIED DRIFT OF SAND AND SNOW ICE AND SNOW IN THE DUNES 97 is kept moist and so compacted that in sinking to take the place of the snow, the layer of sand cracks. In walking over the dunes in cold weather one may be startled by suddenly sinking through an inch or two of sand up to one's waist in clear snow. The wind plays strange pranks with the sand in winter. One formation, not uncommon, is that of an icy slab supported on numerous short columns of sand a few inches to a foot or more high. These structures look at times like minia- ture Grecian temples. Again there are columns devoid of a roof and toadstool-like structures. ^ The explanation of their formation is probably as follows : snow in melting has frozen into a sur- face coating of ice and has also percolated into the sand in spots and frozen there. The cutting wind has blown away the loose sand not cemented by the ice and has rounded oif into small pillars the harder combination of ice and sand. Oc- casionally one will find a large mushroom-like 1 The similarity in formation of these miniature wind-carved columns and those made by the sea waves in horizontal strata of limestone is striking. Compare this illustration with the one on page 60 of "A Labrador Spring." 98 BEACH GRASS structure with a covering thatch of grass and weed stalks. This pale yellow covering has not attracted the sun's rays but has protected the underlying ice-infiltrated sand, while the sun has melted the icy sand all about. The loose sand is carried off by the wind leaving a small tableland or butte of hard sand which is gen- erally undercut to the mushroom shape. It is not always so easy to discover an explana- tion for sand formations in freezing or thawing weather. One of the most curious is one that I have several times found at the end of a severe winter in shallow pools of water in the dunes, where mounds a foot or two across with rounded and irregularly curved slopes appear to have risen up above the water. The cracks in some of them early in the season point to underlying snow. They look like geological models. As the water of the pools sink, these mounds appear stranger still, surrounded as they are by ir- regular ridges and grooves of sand, that look as if a monster king-crab had been ploughing his way through the wet sand. Later in the season some of the pools are FROZEN SAND COLUMNS, "tOADSTOOLS' SAND KETTLE-HOLE CRACKS IN SAND OVER SNOW FROST CRACK AND RETREAT OF DUNES BEFORE THE SEA ICE AND SNOW IN THE DUNES 99 bordered by zones of small crater-like pits with as ragged edges as the craters on the moon. The cause and method of formation, at first obscure, was solved by digging in the soft sand of this zone. Then it was found that bubbles of gas from imprisoned and decaying vegetation formed, on bursting at the surface of the soft and watery sand, these miniature craters. In the spring one may find in hollows in the dunes circular depressions about a foot across and three or four inches deep, marked with con- centric and radial cracks in the sand. These are to be found singly or grouped in such numbers that they also suggest the craters on the moon. It is probable they are formed in the same man- ner as glacial kettle-holes and I have therefore called them miniature glacial kettles. Glacial kettle-holes occur commonly in the glacial drift or gravel throughout New Eng- land as well as in other parts of the glacier- visited world. They are pits a few feet to a hundred feet deep, and as many yards across and more or less circular in form. Their sur- rounding banks are as steep as the gravel will loo BEACH GRASS lie, and often grown up to bushes and trees. Generally dry in summer, they contain small ponds in the spring. A good example is not far from my house at Ipswich. They are believed to have been formed at the end of the last glacial period by the slow melting of detached masses of ice buried in the moraine. I had always some difficulty in picturing in my mind the formation of these familiar features in glacial landscapes until I came across a descrip- tion by John Muir of a kettle-hole in process of formation in Alaska. "I found a pit," he says, "eight or ten feet deep with raw shifting sides countersunk abruptly in the rough moraine mate- rial and at the bottom, on sliding down by the aid of a lithe spruce tree that was being under- mined, I discovered, after digging down a foot or two, that the bottom was resting on a block of solid blue ice which had been buried in the moraine perhaps a century or more, judging by the age of the tree that had grown above it. Probably more than another century will be re- quired to complete the formation of this kettle by the slow melting of the buried ice-block. The ICE AND SNOW IN THE DUNES loi moraine material of course was falling in as the ice melted, and the sides maintained an angle as steep as the material would lie." The "miniature kettles" in the dunes are damp and cracked, indicating melting snow beneath. The truth of this surmise is easily proved by- digging through the two or three inches of sand. Detached nodules of snow covered with sand in melting reproduce on a small scale the kettle- holes of the glacial period. When the snow is all melted the sand dries up, the cracks disappear, the dry sand slips down and blows into the hole and this interesting reminder of the great glacial period is obliterated. CHAPTER V Ice Formations in the Salt Marshes ''or to reside In thrilling region of thick-ribbed ice'' — Shakespeare THE salt marshes, intersected by winding creeks and cut by larger estuaries, are always scenes of beauty and interest in winter. Usually there are pools and veins of blue water which relieve the universal whiteness, but, in severe seasons, all alike is icebound. As far as the eye can see, all is glistening ice. At dead low tide, the smallest creeks are roofed over at the level of the marsh and the tide rushes and gurgles back and forth unseen below. Creeks a little larger are choked with huge cakes of ice that balance on their edges, fill their depths or form ice bridges at various parts of their courses. In the still larger creeks, the banks are capped, coated, pillared and buttressed in ice, while the body of the creek is covered with a 102 A CREEK IN WINTER AT LOW TIDE VENDOME DUNE FROM THE FROZEN ESTUARY ICE FORMATIONS IN MARSHES 103 thick sheet that rests on the flats at low tide and bridges the deeper channel, and at high tide floats at the level of the marsh. As one walks at low tide in the icy depths of these creeks, careful to avoid stepping on a loose cake that may conceal a deep hole in the channel below, one might be in the arctic regions, miles and ages removed from the veneer of civiliza- tion. No sign of human handwork is to be seen ; no smoke curling from chimneys; no bushes or trees or other evidences of the temperate zone. Each turn of the creek opens up new and strange visions of icy grandeur and beauty; overhead, the blue vault of the sky; underfoot, and all about, ice, ice — nothing but ice. Like a primi- tive man, one is dependent on wits and vigor. The illusion is strengthened if one wears Eskimo clothing, sealskin boots, sealskin mittens and fur koolatuk. Dressed in these, one may defy the cold and sit in comfort on an ice cake with the thermometer 10° F., below zero. My koola- tuk is of caribou fur and was made by Labrador Eskimos. It goes on over the head like a jumper and is provided with a hood. As 104 BEACH GRASS the fashion is in Labrador, the hood has a point behind. In Greenland, the same article of ap- parel is called a koolatah and is rounded behind, lacking the point. Althdugh it weighs but four and a half pounds it is warmer than many a modern fur coat weighing more than twice that amount. The reason is a simple one. Imagine two bags filled with hot air. One of the bags is slit down the front and buttoned up, the other is intact; the hot air is constantly escaping from the iirst, which represents the modem fur coat, and is held in the second, which represents the koolatuk. With hood fastened securely around the face, the thick fur is a bar to the escape of air above. The hot air is less likely to escape below, but, in very cold weather, one ties a rope around the waist over the koolatuk, and the warmth of the garment is sensibly increased. This trick I learned from Donald G. McMillan, the arctic explorer. Deep-sea fishermen in severe weather tie a rope around their jumpers for the same pur- pose and call it their "soul and body lashing,'' as it helps to keep soul and body together. A day taken from our modern steam-heated life ICE FORMATIONS IN MARSHES 105 and spent in playing Eskimo is refreshing to soul and body alike and helps to keep them to- gether I The ice floor of the creeks and estuaries is pushed up by the mighty hydraulic power of the tides for eight or nine feet twice in twenty-four hours, and twice it sinks back again. Long cracks parallel with the banks, through which at times the green sea water escapes, only to be frozen in solid lakelets, permits this up and down motion. In very cold weather, the solid ice rises and falls with surprisingly little disturbance. In places, pressure ridges form and the ice is sometimes forced up from all sides into hummocks. In the times of the full moon when there is an un- usually high course of tides, especially if the tide is urged farther landward by an easterly gale, the water breaks loose over the marshes and great cakes of ice are strewn about in wild confusion. Woe to the summer constructions of boat-land- ings and houses ! Everything must give way be- fore the mighty hydraulic pressure. The water freezing between the cakes later cements the whole into one solid mass. io6 BEACH GRASS At night when the moon is full, the ice-strewn marshes have a strange and unearthly beauty. One may wander over them as in a dream. The sparkling ice, which almost obliterates the shad- ows by its brilliant diffused light, makes an ex- cursion at that time one long to be remembered. Although everything seems as bright as day, the brilliancy is deceptive and distances and objects are difficult to judge and recognize. One may suddenly step down several feet where all seemed on the same plane. The brilliancy of the scene at the full of the moon is so great that a photo- graph may be taken which differs in no respect from that of a daylight photograph. The ex- posure needed, although longer, is surprisingly short owing to the brilliant reflections from the snow and ice. The accompanying plate is from a seven minutes exposure taken at nine in the evening. The large cakes of ice, stranded on the marsh assume at times curious forms. At first of nearly uniform thickness and rectangular on their broken sides, they become rounded, cavernous or arched and often take on strange and bizarre THE MARSH IN WINTER HE MARSH BY MOONLIGHT (scvm minutc cxposurc) THE ICE ANT-EATER THE ICE BEAR ICE FORMATIONS IN MARSHES 107 shapes. With a little imagination, I have been able to distinguish a polar bear and a lamb ami- ably and incongruously roaming the ice-fields to- gether. These suggest the curious shapes and cavernous structure seen in icebergs due to the undercutting and wash of the waves. It is evi- dent that undercutting by high tides is to some extent responsible for the formations, but some of them have not been reached by the salt-water since the time they were stranded. The melting of the lower, more salty layers of the ice cake while the upper fresh-water and snow-ice remain, are probable factors in their formation. The thin ice arch shown in the illustration suggests the bending of the plastic ice, but this form would require lateral pressure at the two ends. It bend- ing took place from gravity, a reversed arch would result, as the supports are at the two ends. It is probable, therefore, that the arch form is due, not to bending, but to undercutting and melt- ing of the lower salty ice. The arch is appar- ently a later stage of the cavern. As the ice melts from the marsh the large cakes endure the longest, and of these the ones that are io8 BEACH GRASS covered with thatch and marsh grass are slowest in melting. The pale yellow marsh grass shields the ice from the sun's rays, while the cakes that have ploughed up mud on the surface, attract the sun's rays and melt quickly. In the" severe winter of 1919-20 the salt marshes were early covered thick with ice frozen to the marsh, and the smaller creeks were all so securely roofed that the ice there remained at the level of the marsh even at low tide. A warm week in March, followed by a southwest rain, served to diminish this ice coating to a large ex- tent, and the ice disappeared from the marsh without the usual forcible disruption of storm tides and broken ice cakes. On March 14 only the larger creeks below Castle Island were open and showed dark water, — the broad marsh and the smaller creeks were still one universal white- ness. It was a cold day with a bitter northwest wind. All the surface water pools were smoothly frozen and walking over the marsh was unim- peded by ice cakes but had an element of danger. The roofs of the smaller creeks were generally intact, but had been so thinned by the sun and ICE FORxMATIONS IN MARSHES 109 rain above, and by the gradually warming waters below, that in places they were of paper thinness. One took chances in crossing them. Alpine rop- ing would have been desirable. In other places, the icy roof was eaten away into a delicate fret- work of lace, and, through the larger holes, one could see the swirling tide below. As a rule, however, with a little preliminary testing and good selection, the creeks could be crossed on safe bridges. When the marshes are free from ice, a snow- storm late in the spring may whiten them tempo- rarily, but an unusually high tide transforms them to a dark plane in a white setting of up- land. The marshes look particularly black at these times. The reverse or negative ot this scene appears in cold weather when there is no snow. The marshes are white with ice, while the setting of hills and fields is brown and bare. A heavy snowstorm in w^inter renders a cross- ing of the marshes an uncertain performance. One may meet some surprises. This happened to me in a February storm in 1916. I was taking a short cut across the marshes on snowshoes. I no BEACH GRASS and, on account of the blinding gusts of fine powdered snow, did not notice that the tide had filled one of the creeks in my path. The coat- ing of slush ice and snow concealed the water and, before I was aware of it, I was floundering in the mixture, but by kicking off my snowshoes, I managed speedily to reach shore. Two other surprises on this cross-marsh walk were more pleasing. Twice I flushed from a few inches in front of the tip of my snowshoe meadowlarks that had been hiding in well protected nooks in the snow-covered grass. Their bowers were drifted over by the light snow, through which they burst like bombs in flight. CHAPTER VI The Uplands in Winter ''Around the glistening wonder bent The blue walls of the firmament. No cloud above, no earth below, — A universe of sky and snowP' — Whittier ''Hast thou entered into the treasures of the snow?'' Job, XXXVll, 22 WHETHER careful statistics would confirm my observation or not I do not know, but it has often seemed to me to be a fact that weather has a habit of re- peating itself at intervals of a week. This was certainly the case in the early months of the year 1920. Every Saturday for eight or nine times in succession, there was a snow-storm, and as that was the day I went to Ipswich for the week-end, my friends offered me sympathy. Inwardly I re- joiced in great measure, for not only were my III 112 BEACH GRASS week-ends made the more interesting, but I al- ways secretly hoped that the storm would block the trains for my return and thereby prolong my stay. With snowshoes I was always able to walk to and from my house and the station, but trains are more easily blocked. In the early days of the snow, I had not prepared for this emergency and had left the shoes in the Ipswich house. Consequently late one Saturday afternoon in January, I found myself with a friend at the Ipswich railroad station, separated by three miles and a half of snow-blocked road from our des- tination and suitable foot gear, a distance that could not be traversed by either horse or motor. It had snowed intermittently for a week and two feet of snow on a level had fallen. For the last twenty-four hours it had blown a gale from the northeast and the air was filled with driving snow. The walk through the village streets, banked up with snow and embowered in great overarching elms, their branches snow-covered, glistening in the street lights, was pleasant and easy. In the lee of Heart-break Hill the snow THE UPLANDS IN WINTER 1 1 3 was falling softly and evenly, and was unbroken by any recent track of sleigh or man. Beyond we began to feel the great sweep of the wind from the north across the marshes, and its biting breath and sharp snow crystals made us pull our caps over our faces. At the farther side of Burnham\s Hill the road became impassable; it was packed with drifts from side to side. I knew from old experience that this condition must extend as far as the North-Gate Road, and that the only escape was to take to the fields to the north on the edge of the salt marsh. In the darkness and whirling snow, we had blundered into the drifts without seeing them, and only by slowly and pain- fully walking on our knees we were enabled to escape. Attempts to walk on our feet resulted in our sinking into the drift above our waists when progress was necessarily very slow. In the fields all recent snow had been instantly stripped off by the winds which went roaring by to deposit its burden in the road in the lee ot the stone wall and bushes, and a glossy crust, not strong enough to support us, and breaking at each step, here made our progress slow. It was a wild 114 BEACH GRASS night, but with a companion on whom I could depend and with assured shelter at the end, al- though there was none on the way, I had no need to worry about my ability to accomplish the task. We did not hurry and we stopped about halfway in the lee of some spruces to rest and ingest a few calories in the form of sweet chocolate. As we neared the end of our journey, the roar of the surf on the shore added to the tumult made by the wind. After our two hours struggle, the house looked inviting although it was dark and cold. As we entered the shed, a pheasant, shel- tered in its lee, went whirring off into the dark- ness and the storm. We soon had a hot fire and a hot supper and bid defiance to the storm, which shook the house and roared about us like a baffled beast. The Indian chieftain Rain-in-the-Face probably understood the pleasure and stimulation derived from the pelting of rain, and the still more pleas- ureable sensation of driving snow in the face : ''Give me to struggle with weather and wind Give me to stride through the snow; THE UPL.\NDS IN WINTER 1 1 Give me the feel of the dull on my checks And the glow and the glory within F' The Eskimos would call my hill-to]) on the sea- shore anoatok — the wind-loved spot. The sound of the winds hurrying by, the tone constantly changing is one of the pleasures of life, too little appreciated. In fact, most people complain of it and say they are wearied and all unstrung by it. It may be that this is a habit of mind that goes back to the time when our savage ancestors, poorly clad and housed, feeling the dire effects of the wind and of the struggle against it, endowed it with fierce and diabolical characteristics. An op- posite habit of mind, one of joy, of pleasure and of appreciation of the varied sounds of the wind is worth cultivation. ''Long ago was I friends with the wind ; J am friends with it yet.'' My usual route from the town to my house in winter is by an old road which leads north of Heart-break Hill and crosses Labor-in-vain Creek near its junction with the Ipswich River. I have ii6 BEACH GRASS often pictured the early settlers coming back to town in their boats from a day's fishing, painfully pulling at the clumsy oars against a head wind or tide, and mistaking the wide outlet of this creek for the m.ain river. In a few rods more, the rapidly narrowing creek would show them that their labor had been in vain. An English oak with small leaves and long peduncled acorns stands near here, a descendent perhaps of one planted by the early settlers. The rough and very little-travelled road be- yond the bridge through the salt marshes is over- flowed by the tide at the full of the moon, and I have occasionally been obliged to wade through icy waters. In winter when all is tight frozen my usual route is across the marshes and smaller creeks to the foot of Sagamore Pond, the upper end of which is within a third of a mile of my house. Towards night in severe weather, the ex- pansion of the ice in freezing, cracks it with loud, booming explosions which travel over the pond in all directions. It is an enjoyable sound, one of the interesting sounds of Nature. Aside from its associations with the broad expanse of frozen THE UPLANDS IN WINTER 1 1 ponds and with clear cold weather, its dee[) mel- low sound is pleasing. Short cuts are not always the shortest way, for the longest way round is often the shortest way home. I remember on a dark rainy ni^ht in Eebruary, when pools of water stood in every depression in the ice, I followed the old road for most of the way, but took a short cut across a bit of salt marsh. As I was striding along with my ruck-sack on my back, I struck just below the knee the single wire of a fence. The upper part of my body kept on its way until it landed face downward in an icy pool of water. But the worst is yet to come I Before I could recover from my discomfiture, my ruck-sack, which had also kept on traveling, but was held within limits by the straps, came down hard on my head. The situation was so comical that it saved the day. In future, however, I carefully avoided that wire. Another short cut was taken on a January day in 1907, an unusually mild day for midwinter. Frequent torrential rains had scoured the country clean of snow except in the deep woods and in the shelter of stone walls, where a few dwindling ii8 BEACH GRASS drifts still lingered. I had been prevented from taking the only Sunday morning train for Ipswich, but I managed to catch a later train for Manchester. From there I walked the twelve miles to my farm at Ipswich. The day was per- fect. Hardly a breath of wind stirred, and the warmth of the sun rendered a hat and coat un- necessary. The Essex Woods road, so often trav- ersed in summer by noisy automobiles and chat- tering driving parties, was silent except for the notes of winter birds that greeted me from time to time. Chickadees, golden-crowned kinglets and red-breasted nuthatches — three fast friends were all there. While I was watching these birds close to the ground at the foot of some lofty hem- locks, I noticed a few scales of cones dropping from above. Looking up I soon discovered the cause of the disturbance, in the form of white- winged crossbills who were busy at their feast. Traversing the broad salt marshes, I arrived on the shore of Birch Island opposite my house, from which, however, a creek forty yards wide separated me. The tide was at the flood, and was rushing in with so much force that the water THE UPLANDS IN WINTER 119 was turbid with sand and its depth could not be seen. I had made an erroneous calculation as to the time of the flood. There was no time to lose. Hastily removing my clothes, I tied thrm up in a bundle and holding them on top of m>' head I started to ford the creek. I was familiar with the lay of the bottom, and hoped to be able to cross without difficulty. It was necessary to feel the way carefully to avoid stepping suddenly into a deep hole. The water rapidly rose from waist high to my shoulders, and, in one parti- cularly deep spot, I felt the tide laving my beard. Should I turn back or push on'? Fortunately I took the latter course and soon came to shallower water and reached the further bank. I then had a run of several hundred yards to find a spot where I could jump and splash across a smaller creek. The run in bare feet on partly frozen marsh served to warm me up. I hastily rubbed myself down with a pocket-handkerchief and put on my clothes. Arrived at the house, where I hoped to surprise the family and find a warm fire and good dinner, I discovered that the door was locked and that the family were away dining somewhere 120 BEACH GRASS in the dunes. A cheese sandwich, however, tasted good to the last crumb and a sunny corner on the south side of the house was pleasantly warm. It is uncommon on this wind-swept coast for the snow to fall gently on the trees and bushes, and build up fairy palaces of beauty, or, if it does, it is soon blown away by a rising wind. Often, however, in sheltered nooks in the lea of higher ground, the trees and bushes are loaded with snow. Every branch, every twig bears its bur- den, and the evergreens are glorious in their white coating. If the snow is light and feathery, it does but little damage, for an overload bends down the branch and the snow falls off in a powdery spray. The slighest touch or a puff of wind causes a miniature snowstorm. If, however, rain and sleet have coated the trees with ice great damage may result from the tightly fastened load. But one may almost for- give the damage for the surpassing beauty of these ice-storms. I was therefore most fortunate in ar- riving in Ipswich at a week-end in February, 1920, just as one of these storms was clearing THE UPLANDS IN WINTER 121 away. Blown along by a cold northwest wind filled with icy particles I made rapid progress on snowshoes over the hard crust. As I reached the foot of Sagamore Pond, the sun burst from the dark clouds just before setting and illumined all the icy trees with a flame-colored glow, which made everything glisten and sparkle like a scene in fairy land. The drifts on Sagamore Hill were brilliantly prominent, each snow-wave burning in old gold, shading off to a salmon hue, while the sky above was rippled over with marvelous pink and golden bars. From my bed that night I could look over the white marshes, dimly lighted by the stars, to the ghostly waves of the sand dunes, the dark sea beyond and Cape Ann with its twinkling lights dominated by the steady red gleam from the lighthouse at Annisquam. The next morning I awoke at dawn. All the landscape was in shadow, all was as blue as the blue coverlid on my bed. I compared them care- fully— the hue of the snow and the coverlid exactly matched. Hog Island loomed up a round dark blue drumlin and the level marsh, all 122 BEACH GRASS ice covered, was equally blue — a deep indigo blue — everything was painted with it. As the sun rose over the rim of the earth, gleams of gold and flame shot out and at last illumined the whole scene. Every weed-stalk, every twig, every branch of bush and tree sparkled and glistened in the morning rays. I had intended to do some wood-chopping, but the fascination of the scene prevented all work. Its attraction was so great that I spent the entire day wandering from place to place, finding everywhere new scenes of beauty. From the top of Sagamore Hill the great sparkling ice-fields of marsh were spread below me. The trees of the wooded islands did not look dark against the ice as they do when bare, nor white as when loaded with snow, but they were of a delicate blue-gray and thickly beset with sparkling brilliants. Everywhere one turned, familiar trees and bushes were transformed as if by miracle. Twigs no larger than a lead pencil were covered with clear ice until they were three and even four inches in circumference. The long spikes of BIRCH BENT BY ICE-STORM I ■j ttiyi iip,.> jy^ PW rp^5^ ^^ EDGE OF "forest" AFTER ICE-STORM THE UPLANDS IN WINTER 123 beach grass looked like curving crystal saws with with narrow dark centers and long icicle teeth below. The last years' fruiting stalks of the sea- side golden-rod were thickly coated with ice. Every hip and berry had its natural color en- hanced through a covering of transparent ice, just as beach pebbles are made to glow by wet- ting or varnishing. Glace fruit adorned the trees and bushes. Each little knob on the pen- dant balls of the buttonwood trees could be seen through the ice. The clusters of barberries, the catkins of the birches and the great red torches of the staghorn sumachs were all encased in clear, transparent ice. The ice was thickest on the north and east sides whence the storm had come. Indeed the west and south sides of the tree trunks lacked the icy armor, but the berries and fruit as well as the smaller branches and twigs were for the most part completely encased. Careful scrutiny, how- ever, showed that the sumach torches and even some of the smaller fruits and seeds were vulner- able on the southwest side, the lea side, so that here the birds might get at their contents. Yet 124 BEACH GRASS the birds must have suffered greatly from the gen- eral sealing up of their food. Evergreen trees were but little changed in color, for the transparent ice, unless it caught the sun's rays, was almost invisible over the dark green needles, yet the trees were so changed in shape as to lose their proper outline. White pines were so heavily loaded that their branches slanted downward, and the trees resembled aged spruces in the northern wilds. The transfor- mation was remarkable. A balsam fir tree near my house, instead of holding its branches diag- onally upwards towards the sky, pointed them down, and the tree looked as if it had been trimmed to a pointed cone. Gray branches everywhere bent over in grace- ful curves till their tips touched the snow. In open places like the dunes they were all pros- trate to the south, frozen where the icy north wind had left them. They looked like Samari- tans at their devotions on the summit of Mount Genzim. Their innumerable small branches and fine divisions held such a load of silvery ice that they could no longer stand erect under it. In THE UPLANDS IN WINTER 125 sheltered places, clumps of birch trees had pros- trated themselves radially from the central point. United they stood, divided they fell. Rarely was a branch or twig broken, all had been pliant and yielding to the load. Not so in the case of the canoe birches, the white birch of the north. This tree, here at least, is less yielding, and broken and partly broken branches and stems were common. The tree that suffered most from this ice-storm was the white maple. Its soft and brittle wood was unable to bear the heavy load of ice, and the snow underneath was covered with branches and great limbs torn and splintered as if the trees had been through a German barrage. Poplars were also sadly broken and scarred as were to a less degree the elms and the lindens. The icy armor held the branches in a vise and they became as brittle as the ice under the strain. All the willows had become of the weeping variety. The sturdy oak and apple and cherry hardly bent to their burdens, much less broke, while native ever- greens as a rule were unharmed. Hickories, wahiuts, ashes and sumach — all with great com- 126 BEACH GRASS pound leaves — have no need for the fine branch- lets, and sprays such as the elm and birch need for the support of their little leaves. The mid- rib of the compound leaf is itself the branchlet, and, as this falls with the leaf at the beginning of winter, only the coarse, stubby branches are left. These trees, therefore, carry comparatively little ice and the damage among them was slight. The suggestion of Christmas trees, hung about with sparkling brilliants, is considerably increased in ice-storms like this by the presence of spots of red or blue or green light. I have seen these spots on various occasions glowing as clear as the lights of electric bulbs. They are due to the splitting up of the white rays of light in prism shaped icicles. By gradually moving one's po- sition, the light is made to change from red to orange, to green, blue and violet, while the re- verse order of the spectrum can be brought out by slowly returning to the first position. I have seen such an icicle hanging from the branch of a tree, that changed in color as the branch swayed back and forth in the breeze. THE UPLANDS IN WINTER 127 In a wind the musical tinkling of many ice- covered branches, and the jingle of falling pieces of ice is a pleasant sound, but one grieves at the breaking of twigs and the sharp reports and crash- ing of branches that snap without bending in their icy armor. The snow becomes covered with broken twigs and branches and with splinters of ice and molds of the branches an inch or more thick, all sparkling in the sunlight. Progress by walking through a field of tall grass and weeds, thus bedecked with ice, is attended with much crashing and musical jingling as the ice is broken from the stems and flung on the icy crust. The ice-storm of December 1921, which did such grievous injury to trees a few miles inland, was innocuous at Ipswich. In the severe winter of 1919-20 the meadow- mice and cottontail rabbits were hard put to it for food and played havoc with young trees. The devastation in young orchards was particu- larly severe and many thousands of apple, pear and other fruit trees were ruined. It is custom- ary to protect the lower foot or two of \oung orchard trees with wire netting or roofing paper, 128 BEACH GRASS as meadow-mice, working under the snow, are fond of tender bark. In this winter when seven feet of snow on a level fell during the season, and when drifts sometimes buried trees ten and fifteen years old to their tops, the work that went on under the snow was extensive and not re- vealed until the snow melted. Then it was dis- covered that many trees were completely girdled by the mice whose delicate teeth markings could be seen covering all the wood from which the bark had been removed. Many of the lower limbs were girdled in the same manner and stood out white and bare. The limbs showed also the larger tooth markings of the rabbits, and the leaf and flower buds were removed by their in- cisors as if they had been cut with a sharp knife. One ignorant of these matters, might be led to think that some enemy had, in spite, pruned off all the buds on the lower branches of his fruit- trees. Indeed when one stands under an apple- tree in spring and finds the buds cut off as high as the arm can reach, a human enemy rather than a diminutive cottontail is suggested. When the snow is gone it is difficult to realize the condition BUSHES AND TREES IN ICE-STORM. A GLACIAL KETTLE-TIOLF APPLE-TREE GNAWED BY RABBITS AND Ml ADOW-MU I THE UPLANDS IN WINTER 129 in midwinter. I took pains at that time to walk on snowshoes over the tops of some of my h)w spreading apple-trees of twenty years growth that were engulfed in a great drift in the lea of a bushy stone wall, but I found that when I stated this fact the following summer I was looked on with incredulity. There are some observa- tions made with exactitude that it is better not to repeat if one wishes to preserve one's reputation for veracity! The snow under these apple-trees was covered with rabbit droppings, and, as it melted, tunnels of tield-mice crossing each other and branching in all directions were spread out like a map. Not only were cultivated fruit- trees girdled but many of the native wild trees: wild black cherries, gray birch, sumachs and even evergreens. Many of these leaved out and blossomed as usual the next summer but the sum- mer after that they were dead ! Another result of the severe winters is shown in the creatures that have succumbed to cold and starvation. Dead crows and black ducks I have found, and twice I have picked up the frozen bodies of myrtle warblers. These birds arc un- 130 BEACH GRASS doubtedly able to survive much cold if they have plenty of food, but, in a dearth of calories they go to the wall. I have measured all the crows I have found dead and although there are not yet num- bers enough from which to draw conclusions, it would seem as if it were the small and weakly that fall first. Doubtless many creep into holes and die and are never found, or are eaten by prowling animals. As the bird population re- mains nearly constant and many young are reared each year it is evident that a large number must perish annually — but how few of their bodies are ever seen! It has been reported that in severely cold weather birds are found with their eyes frozen. I had always supposed that this took place only when the bird was much weakened from lack of food and was dying, or that it occurred after death, for northern birds, with their active cir- culation and high temperature, can stand much cold provided they have sufficient food. On May 31, 1920, after the severe winter, Mr. F. A. Saunders and I were walking along the inner beach of the dunes when we noticed a crow flying THE UPLANDS IN WINTER 131 towards us. It passed within thirty yards with- out swerving from its direct flight, and both of us noticed that the eye turned towards us was white. It is most unusual for a crow to fly within gun- shot of a man at Ipswich, and it is probable that the crow was blind in one or both eyes. Had they been touched by the frost or was it cataract? After a severe winter, drifts of snow on bare hills remain longest on the south side, some- times in a series of girdling zones. One would expect the snow to melt quicker on the southern exposures, but, in the northerly storms of winter, the snow collects in drifts to great depths on the lea or southern side of the hills, while it is blown off on the windward side. Although the sun is more powerful on the southern sides, it takes longer to melt the snow there on account of the far greater accumulation. Although the aurora borealis is not limited to the winter season, it is displayed to greatest per- fection at that time. One of the most beautiful auroras I have ever seen occurred one cold clear night in March, 1918, during the Great War, and the superstitious might well have read omens m 132 BEACH GRASS its display. A series of white streamers radiated from the zenith, constantly waving and changing their places. Whole sections of the sky glowed a blood red, as if it reflected a mighty conflagra- tion or a mighty slaughter, and the snow was tinged with the crimson flood. When this crim- son sky was crossed with bars of white with here and there patches of dark blue, it needed little imagination to picture a draping of the sky with Old Glory. On another occasion the whole sky was marked by waving, curving sheets of light, concentrated in spots or radiating from the zenith. The col- ors were varied and delicate, suggestive at times of the rainbow, at times of the lovely greens and yellows of the lunar moth. These rays and folds of color moved about with great speed and resembled the waving of soft silken draperies — a skirt dance of the skies. The Cree Indians call the aurora "the dance of the spirits." The climate in this part of the country varies irregularly not only from year to year, but also from day to day. A sunny, balmy day in winter, may be suddenly interrupted by a blizzard of THE UPLANDS IN WINTER 133 great severity, a warm rain may change to an icy snowstorm, or the coldest weather be succeeded by the greatest thaw. ''First it blew afid then it sneiv^ Then it friz and then it tJiew^ Then there ca?ne a shower of rain^ Then it friz and thew again.'' Variety is the spice of life, and these changes are interesting and even enjoyable — to one in the mood. The uplands are not always white with snow in winter. The variation is a wide one. The winter before this one of great snow was nearly snowless, and the winter following was mild and lacking in snowfall. On January 26, 1916, the Fahrenheit thermometer stood at 66° at 2 p. M. and 58° at midnight. On January 26, 1913 the temperature at noon was 58", there was no snow or ice to be found and there was no frost in the ground. The fields and marshes were brown and bare. Pheasants were crowing and meadowlarks singing. The persistency of winter and the variability 134 BEACH GRASS in the advent of spring in New England is well known. On April 17, 1910, I gathered a small mess of asparagus in my garden, the rhubarb was up eight or ten inches, and violets, houstonias and wild strawberries were in blossom. The larches were clothed in green and the beach plum blos- soms were nearly out. On May 7, 1918 the tem- perature was 89°, all the trees had leafed out and the lilacs were in full blossom. On May 6, 1917 there was a snowstorm at Ipswich the glass stood at 39° at noon, and not a leaf was to be seen except those of the wild currant. Not until May 20 did the maples and lindens begin to leaf out. Sunday, March 26, 1922, was a balmy day; the ground was free from snow and almost free from frost, and the glass reached 80°. The Sunday following, a fierce northeaster had cov- ered the ground nearly a foot deep with snow, and the temperature had fallen to 30°. Variety is the spice of life. Therefore New England weather is of the best I CHAPTER VII A Winter Crow Roost ''At break of day I crossed the wooded vale: And while the morning made A trembling light among the tree-tops pale, I saw the sable birds on every Itmb, Clinging together closely in the shade. And croaking placidly their surly hymn.'' — Van Dyke PRIOR to the winter of 1916-17, most of the crows of the eastern parts of Essex County, Massachusetts, spent the nights in roosts in the pine thickets at Annisquam and West Gloucester. Hither from all directions in winter afternoons these birds could be seen wend- ing their way. The general course of flight over the Ipswich dunes was from north to south. There were, however, several small roosts in the Ipswich region. One was in a grove of white pines and cedars on the south side of Heart-break 13s 136 BEACH GRASS Hill; another, which lodged about five hundred birds, was in one of the pitch pine thickets of the Ipswich dunes. In November, 1916, I discovered that the ground under and near the large thickets of evergreens and hard woods on the southerly side of Castle Hill close to Ipswich beach was covered thickly with crow pellets and droppings. I was not surprised, therefore, to find that the afternoon flight of crows was directed towards these thickets, and that the birds were passing over the dunes in an opposite direction to that taken in former years. Whether the great roosts at Annisquam and West Gloucester have been deserted or not I cannot say, but it is evident that the larger number of birds have transferred their winter nights' lodgings to Castle Hill. Twenty-five years ago the whole southerly side of Castle and High Hills was pasture and mowing land. The owner at that time began planting trees on a large scale. ^ At first barely visible in the grass these have grown to a height of thirty or forty feet, and there is now a re- spectable forest over twenty or thirty acres of 1 This was in 1892, and the owner was the late John B. Brown. The estate is now owned by Richard T, Crane Jr. A WINTER CROW ROOST i 37 land. The evergreen trees are largely European species — Scotch and Austrian pines with spruces and firs. There is a large grove of European larches, and there are patches of willows, maples, ashes, buttonwoods, and other deciduous trees. In the short winter afternoons the crows begin their flight to the roost long before sunset. By three o'clock or even as early as one o'clock, es- pecially in dark weather and in the short Decem- ber days, this bed-time journey begins, while in the latter part of February the flight is postponed until half past four or a quarter of five. From every direction but the seaward side the crows direct their course towards the roost. Three main streams of flight can be distinguished : one from the north, from the region of the Ipswich and Rowley "hundreds" — the great stretches of salt marsh that extend to the Merrimac River — a second from the west and a third — apparent!)' the largest of all, broad and deep and highly con- centrated— from the south. It was the last of these rivers that on a coUi December afternoon with a biting wind from tin- northwest I first studied in compan}' w'l^h Mr. 138 BEACH GRASS Francis H. Allen. It was an impressive sight. About three o'clock the crows began to appear, singly and in small groups, beating their way in the teeth of the wind towards the north. In fly- ing over the estuary of the Castle Neck River they kept close to the water as if to take advantage of the lee behind the waves; over the land they clung to the contour of the dunes. As we walked among these waves of sand, the crows often ap- peared suddenly and unexpectedly over the crest of a dune within a few feet of us. Silently for the most part, except for the silken rustle of their wings, they flew over in increasing num- bers until it was evident that they were to be counted, not by hundreds, but by thousands. Many of them alighted on the dunes to the south of the roosting place; sand, bushes and stunted bare trees were alike black with them. Others assembled on the bare hillside to the east. About sunset a great tumult of corvine voices issued from the multitude — a loud cawing with oc- casional wailing notes — and a black cloud rose into the air and settled in the branches of the bare trees to the west of the roost. From here A WINTER CROW ROOST i yj as it was growing dusk they glided into the evcr- greens for the night. The last day of the year 1916, I spent with Dr, W. M. Tyler in the dunes. The wind was fresh from the northwest — the temperature was 5° Fahr. at 6.30 a. m., 18° at noon and 20'^ at 6 p. M. As early as one o'clock in the after- noon a few crows were seen struggling north over and close to the surface of the dunes. Others were noticed flying high and towards the south. This southerly flight came from over Castle Hill to the north, passed the roost and continued on over the dunes. At half-past three some of these birds, which were apparently turning their backs on their usual night's lodging place, met with a large company coming from the south and all settled together in the dunes about two miles south of the roost. Some of the birds coming from the north, however, settled on the bare helds by the roost, and their numbers here were aug- mented by a stream from the west. This con- course on the hillside set up a great tunuilt ot cawings just before four o'clock. At live min- utes after four, the united multitude ot north- 140 BEACH GRASS erners and southerners rose from their meeting place in the dunes and flew low to join their noisy brethren on the hillside. This river of black wings from the south was a continuous one and it was joined just before its debouch on the hillside by the stream from the west. The river from the north had split into two layers: the lower flying birds came to rest on the hill — the higher flying ones favored by the strong north- west wind, continued on their way south, not- withstanding the great current of crows that was sweeping north below them. They joined their comrades in the dunes and retraced their steps. No signs of starvation and impaired vigor in these unnecessary flights, or in the games of tag in which two or more of the birds would at times indulge I The pace is now fast and furious. The birds are anxious to get within touch of the roost be- fore it is dark but none have yet entered it. At 4.15 p. M., 135 birds pass in a minute from the south on their way to join the concourse on the hillside. A little later this southern river be- comes so choked with birds that it is impossible A WINTER CROW ROOST 141 to count them. From our point of vantage in a spruce thicket on the hill we can see that this flock stretches for two miles into the dunes and it takes four minutes to pass. The sj^eed of flight, therefore, must be roughly about thirty miles an hour. At 4.15 p. m. the sun sets, but in the yellow glow of the cloudless sky the birds can be seen pouring by from the west and south. The bulk of the stream from the north now comes to rest on the hillside for only occasionally can a crow be seen flying to the south over the heads of the southern stream. At 4.35 P. M., Dr. Tyler and I again counted the southern stream for a minute as they flew silently between us and the lighthouse. One of us counted 160 the other 157 birds, so it is probable that our counts were fairly accurate. This con- stant watching of the black stream from the south against the white lighthouse produced in both of us a curious optical illusion. The light- house and dunes seemed to be moving smoothly and swiftly from north to south I At 4.37 P.M., a great cawing arose from the hillside and a black cloud of birds rose up, some 142 BEACH GRASS to enter the roost, others to subside on the hillside. It was evident that the birds from time to time had been diving into the roost. At 4.40 p. m. it was rapidly growing dark and the tributary streams were evidently dwindling. Only 50 went by the lighthouse in a minute. Five min- utes later it was nearly dark and only a few be- lated stragglers were hurrying to the concourse on the hill. At 4.45 p. M., Dr. Tyler and I walked around to the north of the roost, and, although we could see nothing in the darkness, we could hear the silken rustle of wings and feathers as the crows were composing themselves for the night's rest among the branches of the trees. The babble of low conversational notes that went up from the company suggested the sounds of a night heronry, although c awing s and earrings were in- terspersed with the kis and uks and ahhs. The odor was that of a hen-yard. The temperature in the grove, with its hundreds of corvine fur- naces breathing out air heated to 105° or there- abouts was probably distinctly higher than in the open. We refrained from entering the A WINTER CROW ROOST 143 thicket, for any attempt to do so aroused the hirds to flight. In the dim light we could make out that the hillside held between the roost and the sea was still blackened with birds that were continually rising up and entering the trees. Some of them perched temporarily on the bare tops of the hard woods where they were visible against the sky. The noise and confusion were great. It would seem as if the roost was so crowded that the birds had to wait their time for a chance to get in, and that a constant shifting of places and crowding was necessary before the crows could settle in peace for the night. Hence the pro- longed and varied conversation; hence the pro- fanity. It was an intensely interesting experience, this observation of the return of the crows to their night's lodgings, and one wished for eyes all about the head, well sharpened wits to interpret and a trained assistant to take down notes. How many birds spent the night in the roost '^ T\vM is a difficult question to answer, but a rough esti- mate can be made. There were three streams en- 144 BEACH GRASS tering the roost beginning at one o'clock and con- tinuing until a quarter of five. The largest of these was from the south, the next largest from the west and the smallest from the north. The greatest flight occurred in the hour before dark. From counts made in the stream from the south this flow averaged at least a hundred in a min- ute or 6000 in the hour. If we suppose that an equal number arrived in the combined western and northern streams there would be 12,000 oc- cupants in the roost, a very moderate estimate, I believe. Crows were not the only species that sought refuge for the night in these evergreens. At half-past four a starling was seen flying thither. But the great flight of starlings appeared shortly after four. There were about two hundred of them — a mere nothing compared with the enor- mous multitudes that are soon destined to in- habit these regions, for the European starling, introduced in some evil moment to these new lands of the Western Hemisphere, is increasing by leaps and bounds. This flock of two hun- dred starlings flew by with a whistling of wings A WINTER CROW ROOST 14^- straight for the roost, but, on its arrival, at once began a series of aerial evolutions which lasted for half an hour by the watch, before the flock finally entered the roost for the night. At times the birds would spread out like a mist on the hill- sides, at times they would combine to form a compact dark ball; again they would stream off like a whisp of smoke, and turn and twist and snap the whip in a most amazing manner. The ex'hibition of this troop of starlings was that of well trained performers executing difficult and intricate evolutions without hesitation and with- out fault. The rhythm and harmony of all their movements was perfect; the speed of action was so great that it was at times difficult to fol- low them with the eye. They opened or closed ranks, they deployed to the right or to the left, they descended or ascended as if impelled by a common mind or as if possessed of perfect tele- pathic intercommunication. One could hear no word of command and there appeared to be no leader. The spirit of play was in it all and the joy of untiring energy, of perfect mas- tery of the air and of consummate grace and skill. 146 BEACH GRASS It was a marvelous and mysterious exhibition. I have often watched from my house the western stream of crows go by, bound for the roost. With a strong northwest wind the greater number fly in the lea of the hill close to the marsh. A smaller number push their way in the valley to the north partly sheltered from the wind by the trees. It exposes himself to the full sweep of the wind over the top of the hill. When the wind is in the east the crows fly close to the marsh and follow the windings of Castle Creek. With a westerly breeze, however, the birds fly high and, silhouetted against the sunset glow, the birds pass over the hill at great speed, alternately flapping and sailing. Those that fly over the marshes keep at the level of the top of the hill instead of skimming close to the ground as they do in unfavorable winds. I have counted eighty and at times as many as one hundred and twenty passing in a minute in this western tributary to the roost. Sometimes they tarry at Birch Island and blacken the bare trees with their numbers, and fill the air with the din of their afternoon conversation. Of a sudden they A WINTER CROW ROOST 147 are off for their ni^ht roost on Castle Hill. In the early months of the year 1919 the roost was much disturbed by a great horned owl, and temporarily ceased to be, the crows goin^ else- where. The feathers of dead crows and great outcrys among the living attested the crime. Early in April, however, the crows returned as usual to the roost; the owl had evidently taken his departure for his breeding grounds. The afternoon of the twenty-second of Febru- ary, 1917, was cold and clear with a wind from the northwest. I made my way to the top of Castle Hill in order to watch the stream of crows from the north. The first arrivals came at half- past four o'clock. They were flying over the ice- filled marshes of the Ipswich and Plum Island rivers, on the lookout perhaps for a last scanty portion of food before bedtime. On reaching Castle Hill they flew up over its crest and glided down into the hard woods to the east and west of the evergreen roost. Here they took part in the regular noisy evening crow reception of the three streams before retiring for the night. At the full of the moon on the sixth of Janu- 148 BEACH GRASS ary I visited the roost at 9 p. m., a time when all well regulated crows should, I had supposed, be sound asleep. As I approached the roost, much to my surprise, I heard distant sleepy cries like those of young herons, and when I reached the edge of the roosting trees there was a tumul- tuous rush and bustle of crows flying from tree to tree and overhead. Strain my eyes as I would only occasionally could I catch sight of a black form, although the air was brilliant with the moonlight and the reflection from the snow. I turned back at once as I had no desire to disturb the birds' slumbers but it was evident that many, even at this later hour, had not settled down for the night. The morning flight from the roost takes less time than the evening return. As I approached it in the semi-darkness at 6.25 a. m., on Janu- ary 7, a distant cawing could be heard and a min- ute later nine crows were seen flying off to the south, and three minutes later, nine went off to the west. At half-past six, after a great uproar of caws and uks^ occasional rattles and wailing ahhhs^ a broad stream boiled up from the roosting A WINTER CROW ROOST 149 trees and spread off towards the west, obscurely seen in the dim light except when the birds stood out against the beginning red glow in the east or against the light of the setting moon in the west. As I stood concealed on the hillside among a grove of spruces, the crows passed over my head, noiselessly, except for the silken swish of their wings, fully a thousand strong. Then no more for over five minutes although the tumult in the roost continued in increasing volume. At 6.40 the roost boiled over again, but the birds, spreading in all directions, soon united into a black river that flowed over the dunes to the south. The settings for this black stream were the white sand dunes and the luminous glow in the east which had become a brilliant crimson, fading to orange and yellow and cut by a broad band of pink haze that streamed up to the zenith. The morning star glowed brightly until almost broad daylight. The sun rose at 7.14. At 7, I entered the roost and hurried away the few hun- dred remaining birds some of whom were in the bare tops of the hard woods ready to depart, while others were still dozing in the evergreens 150 BEACH GRASS below. The air was close and smelt like a hen- house. Pellets and droppings were everywhere. On the last day of 1916, Dr. Tyler and I watched the crows leaving the roost. We ar- rived at 6.40, too late to see the first departures. From time to time we counted the birds going by in the stream to the south and as our counts showed a remarkable agreement they may be taken as substantially accurate. At 6.45, 105 passed in a minute; at 6.50, 125 passed, at 6.55, 58 passed, at 6.58, 121 passed and at 7.00, 63 passed. The starlings left the roost at 7 o'clock and passed us with a chorus of shrill cries or perhaps it was the swish of their wings that we heard. They were intent on the day's hunt for food and did not waste time on setting-up evolutions. At 7.13 the sun rose and the roost was silent and deserted. In the early part of the winter there is plenty of food for the crows. The bayberry and stag- horn sumach bushes, the poison ivy, cat briers and red cedars are laden with their fruit. The salt marshes and beaches furnish a bountiful A WINTER CROW ROOST 151 supply of food in the form of mollusks and crutaceans as well as in dead iish and other car- rion brought up by the tides. In fact, it is these marshes and beaches that make such a great con- course of crows possible; — the inland country is able to support but a mere fraction of sucli a multitude. If the winter is a prolonged and severe one, the food problem becomes more and more difficult. All the bayberry bushes that are not covered with snow are stripped of their berries; the red flames of the sumach are battered and reduced to a spindling central stalk with but a few red furry seeds remaining. The upper beach, the source of so much food supply in dead fish, crabs and mollusks, is encased in ice and built up into a wall; the marshes with their wealth of small snails and mussels is sealed sev- eral feet deep in tumbled cakes of ice, and the tide rises and falls in the creeks and larger estu- aries under an unbroken icy mantle. All the uplands are buried in snow. It is difficult to conceive how this multitude of red-blooded, active birds can glean enough food umler these conditions. The number of food calories needed 152 BEACH GRASS by each crow must be large. But the crow, like the Indian and all creatures of nature, is well able to take care of himself and to utilize every possible source of food supply. Neither a feast nor a famine disturbs his equanimity, unless the latter is too prolonged. Although most of the birds appeared to be endowed with plenty of strength and energy, one at least on February 22 seemed to be suffer- ing from the hard times. This crow alighted in a feeble tottering manner on a post within forty yards of me, and balanced himself with difficulty. I walked to within thirty 3^ards of him when he wearily took wing only to alight in a similar way on another post a couple of hundred yards away. When flushed from this he managed to fly a few rods to the roosting grove. Two other crows previous to this incident were found dead near the roost. Both were normal in size as shown by measurements,^ and neither 1 In "The birds of Essex County," p. 243, 1 recorded the ex- amination of a crow found dead early in March, 1904. "The body was greatly emaciated, the intestines nearly empty, and the stomach contained only a husk of oats and a piece of coal ashes. There was no evidence of disease. The bird A WINTER CROW ROOST 15^ showed any signs of injury. One was very thin. The case of the other is worth recording in de- tail. It was on January first, 1917, that I dis- covered a crow in the topmost branch of a sk-ndrr fifty- foot ash tree on the edge of the roost. A string had in some way become entangled about one foot and the branch of the tree. Struggle as he would he could not free himself and, al- though he could perch at ease on the branch, he often hung head downwards from it, exhausted by his fruitless efforts. While I watched him and searched my brain for some means for his release, another crow repeatedly swooped down and passed within a few feet or even inches of the poor captive. Both birds were cawing vio- lently. As it was impossible to climb the slender tree I decided to go on to the beach, hoping that in my absence fortune would favor the bird, and that the string might become untangled. On m> return an hour later the victim was still tied fast, while on the ground a few yards from the foot of the tree and directly in my path, was the body of a crow still warm. No other crow was weighed only ten ounces and was small in every way, — a casj of the small and unfit perishing." 154 BEACH GRASS in the neighborhood. The dead crow was a male of normal size, as shown by measurements, its plumage was in good condition and it showed every evidence of perfect health. No injury could be found anywhere — there was no sign of hemorrhage under the skin, in the abdominal cavity or in the skull. Fat was present in con- siderable amount, especially about the viscera. In order to finish the story it may be recorded here that by the forcible bending down of the top of the slender ash so that the captive crow could be reached from another tree this unfor- tunate bird (of its sex I am ignorant) was re- leased only to die on the following day. I shall not attempt to answer the question as to the cause of the death of the crow whose autopsy I have related, but one is tempted to say that he died of grief for the captive one. On relating the case to the late Mr. William Brewster, he told me of a guinea fowl and an Egyptian goose that he had kept together from their hatching out. Having occasion to put chem in separate enclosures, he found that they both refused to eat and were constantly butting A WINTER CROW ROOST 155 their heads against the wire mesh that separated them. United in the same enclosure again, they proved to be most devoted friends, always in each other's company. At last the guinea fowl fell ill and died and the goose was found dead on the following day. An examination showed disease and emaciation in the case of the guinea fowl, but no signs of either in the case of the goose. In this connection the following incident is also pertinent. On a lawn near the sea at Mar- blehead, Mr. F. A. Saunders and I discovered the dead body of a Brunnich's murre, an arctic sea-bird of the auk family that occasionally wan- ders to our shores in winter. The bird had been dead at least a week. Within a stone's throw, just outside the breakers, swam a very live murre. Curiously enough, a correspondent in Rock- port related later a similar experience with a dead and living murre, and, on February 5, k;22, Mr. F. A. Saunders and I found a third instance. On the beach at Ipswich was a dead Brunnich's murre and not far away and close to the shore swam a live Brunnich's murre, a most 156 BEACH GRASS unusual bird on a sandy shore. There is certainly more than chance coincidence in these three instances, which, I believe point to the faithfulness of the survivor of a pair. During the greater part of the day the roost is deserted, but there is much to be learned of the ways of the crow even under these conditions. Pellets and droppings are everywhere on the ground under the trees as well as in the sur- rounding fields, and they are especially obvious when the ground is covered with snow. The fact that the snow in the fields near the roost is well trodden by the crows and spotted with drop- pings and pellets might lead one to think that the birds had spent the night there, but these studies have shown that the field was merely a reception room where the birds met before retir- ing for the night. The pellets which are ejected from the mouths of the birds after a meal and are composed of the useless and indigestible portions of the meal, are cylindrical in shape, rounded at the ends and measure one or two inches in length and about half-an-inch or more in diameter. In warm or TRACKS OF CROW TAKING FLIGHT CROW PELLETS REGURGITATED A WINTER CROW ROOST i ^-7 wet weather they speedily break up and iiiin