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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, .
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UNITED STATES OF ‘AMERICA.

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BHSFHSHSSHSSHFSHSHHSHESHEHSHECHHEHSCHSCHSHSSHSAL HES SEKEFSESSHHKESKEKEEHESD

— Bee-Culture;

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$=

OR.

SUCCESSFUL MANAGEMENT OF THE APIARY,

BY

THOMAS G. NEWMAN,

‘Editor of the American Bee Journal.)

PHF FHPSS SHS SHE HSSHSHHFSEHSHEHFHSFFHEFHSOHFFHOSHHFFEOFFH HOOF Y
(FE TR I ES EE ES SSE ROS OE

CHICAGO:
THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON,
972 & 974 West Madison Street.

Printed in both English and German; Price 4Qc. for either Edition.

PWUUEEEEKEREKERERERIEREEEERE PY ECEEEREREEER ERS EEEREEEEEEREEE EERE EERE EERE EXS

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BSSHSHSSHSHSHASHEHSHSHHHHEHHSHHHSHEHHSHHH SHH HHGEHHHHH HHH HH HM

PUBLICATIONS FOR THE APIARY,

FOR SALE AT THE OFFICE OF

The American Bee Journal,
9%4 West Madison Street, Chicago, Il.

COOK’S NEW MANUAL OF THE APIARY.

Thig.is a new edition of Prof. Cook’s Manual of the Apiary, entirely re-written
greatly enlarged and supurbly illustrated. :
_ Being new, it 16 fay up with the times on every conceivable subject that
interests the apiarist. Itis not only instructive, but intensely interesting. 5

It comprises a full delineation of the anatomy and physiology of the Honey-
Bee, illustrated with costly wood engravings, full descriptions of honey-pro-
ducing plants, trees and shrubs, &c., splendidly illustrated—and last, though not
least, detailed instructions for the successful accomplishment of all the various
manipulations necessary in the apiary.

This work is a masterly production, and one that no bee-keeper, however
limited his means, can afford to do without.

It is printed in the best style of the art, on fine book paper, and superbly illus-
peated pr OREHORS: Price, bound in cloth, $1.25, postpaid ; in paper binding, $1.00,
postpaid.

THE HIVE AND HONEY-BEE, by L.’L. Langstroth.
This is a standard volume, well illustrated and nicely printed. Price, $2.00.

MYSTERIES OF BEE-KEEPING, by M. Quinby.

The author has treated the subject of Bee-Keeping in a manner that cannot
fail to interest all who read this work. Price, $1.50.

THE DZIERZON THEORY; being a full elucidation of Scien-
tific Bee-Keepins. . ;

_ This “theory” presents in the form of distinct propositions, the fundamental
princlples of bee-culture, and in this work the late Baron of Berlepsch furnishes
acondensed statement of the facts and arguments by which these propositions
are demonstrated. Itis of untold value to beginners and all others who desire
to study the subject of apiculture. It is just what thousands want. |

It contains 50 pages and is printed on fine book paper. Price, postpaid, 20 cents,
or three copies for 50 cents. yy

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE, by the Editor of the
American Bee Journal.

This is a pamphlet of 24 pages, discoursing upon the Ancient History of Bees
and Honey ; the nature, quality, sources, and preparation of Honey for the Mar-
ket ; Honey, as an article of Food, giving recipes for making Honey Cakes,
Cookies, Puddings, Foam, Wines, &c.; and Honey as Medicine, followed by
many useful Recipes. It is intended for consumers, and should be scattered by
thousands all over the country, and thus assist in creating a demand for honey.—
Prices: Single copies, 10 cents postpaid ;15 copies for $1.00 by mail, postpaid ; 100
copies, with name and address of honey-producer pinte’ on them, $5.00 by mail,
postpaid ; 250 copies, by express, at'4 Gents each ; or more copies, by express,
at3centseach. Itis published in German also at the same prices.

WINTERING BEES; How to do it Successfully.

This contains all the Prize Essays on this impartant subject that were read
before the Centennial Bee-Keepers’ Association. The prize ($25 in gold) was
awarded to Prof. Cook’s Essay, which is reported in full in this pamphlet.

It contains 30 pages and is printed on fine book paper. Price, lo cents, or five
copies for 50 cents.

SPECIAL EDITION of the Journal,

Containing the Official Report of the Proceedings of the National Convention,
held in New York, Oct., 16-18, 1877, with all the Essays and Discussions,—together
with a description of the implements for the Apiary, on exhibition at the Ameri-
can Institute Fair.—Price 10 cents.

[2 Send by Postal Money Order, Draft or Registered Letter at oie risk.
THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON,
974 West Madison Street, Chicago, Ill.

¢

BEE
CULTURE:

SUCCESSFUL MANAGEMENT

OF

HtHE APIAR Y.

BY

THOMAS G. NEWMAN,

Editor of the “American Bee Journal.”

G49
CHICAGO: 7
THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON,
1879.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by
THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

ere A CE. .

ooo

It is now everywhere admitted that to be a profitable pur-
suit, Bee-keeping must be conducted on scientific principles.
The old manner of management, (or rather mis-manage-
ment,) permitting the bees to use log-gums, hollow trees, or
old boxes for hives, can no longer be tolerated... The con-
sumer, the retailer, and the wholesale dealer in honey, all
demand: that surplus honey shall either be extracted from
the comb upon scientific principles, by improved machinery,
or else be produced in single comb frames or boxes, in order
to attract the eye as well as to please the palate.

To induce the practice of scientific management of the

-apiary is the object of these pages, and to that end we shall

not only give our own views and experiences, but we shall
also quote from those who have repeatedly practiced with
success the plans and manipulations recommended.

This pamphlet is not designed to supersede or supplant
any of the valuable works on apiculture already published,
but will supply a want for a cheap work for the beginner.

When this is thoroughly perused, the enquiring mind is
directed to CooK’s MANUAL OF THE APTARY, for.a more
full treatise on Bee Culture. Prof. Cook isan entomologist,
a botanist, a passionate lover of the honey bee, and his
work of some 300 pages is the newest and most complete
ever yet produced, and receives the hearty endorsement of

THE AUTHOR.

vy
/

Fig. 58.—Alsike Clover.

C OAaN 42a Ni ES Se

NATURAL History OF THE HoneEY-BEE.
HTT EROITCETOU tae ek etek abe kek hee a hes AA? aie ee.

he Queens eer. ince sade hes e's wie dle a els es
he Drone Bee. os. ur. cs ds ee (oat c een enene

Pollen, voremce-mtead os. 0 Uae Oe ee oa ee ee
Propolis, or Bee Glue........ aes ae! 3 fay aa aes
Tue EsTABLISHMENT OF AN APIARY.

_ Situation, Stocking and Arrangement ............
Bee-Keeping a Scicucn). 2); Ate URN as
Who should” keep Bees: sa. fe 2
Bresole Location . 20 7.5.<5 0 VHs SRA,
Which way: should. hives:face..../.:.....89......
MW headto.commencetis, 2.22. ..4.5 8 ee eee.
How many Colonies to begin with...............
Remowns Bees aco Url. Ph oe a.
What kind of Bees to get..:..............0005.
Ea VEIN 5.5 see a ot ow ke aga Dit Pee ob
How to care for a first Colony..........2.......
Bees kept on Shares .......:....5.... SRE 5
Bees Marking their Location.............. eee
Changing emetic) Age
‘Preparation of Bees for Winter...... Mee he Lie
Clipping the Queen’s Wings ................4..
BSre PE MCIMNESU IE seba sire hse «eae oo wisi LL Sess pele
ibupk wor Science”). When? . seis feted) Jaen set cu’,
Will Bees: Injure Priiteis st lis. econ peace igh

IAD BeyHDLOUML 0S wa dos Gases ae vised Berend LL ‘

ag)

8 BEE CULTURE. ,

HIvEs AND SurRPLUS HonEY RECEPTACLES.

The: angstroth Hive .. ..:..5)2er meas oc 36
The Production of Choice Honey .2...... 2.eeeee 38
Making Hives and Surplus Boxes............... 43
How shall Honey be placed upon the Market? .... 45
Assort and Gtade the Honey.........:..2.- see 47
How to get Bees out of Honey Boxes............ 4T
Management of Comb Honey. . re
Tue Honey ExtTRAcToR AND ITS Use.
When to use the Honey Extractor .............. D0
How to Extract... 5.5232. .0c5-4 ++ 52
Comp FouNDATION AND ITs UsE.
Results of Experiments............1) -. 2a 53
New Comb is desirable... ...0. 0.42 ce « aid ae 54
Fastening Comb Foundation......... ... «<b eee . 55
How to cut it to desired sizes .... ........55 see dD
Should Comb Foundation be Thin or Thick? ...... 56
Comb Foundation in Surplus Boxes ........... .. 56
Are the Corrugations Advantageous? ............ D7
Preserve'the Wax? [acct oie: gelene ott telat ee DT
Facts worth Remembering . ........+. .'.+- + .c eee 58
ITALIANIZING AN APIARY. . |
4 Superiority of Italians). 5... 0. ips. oe eee wave OD
Introducing a Queen ........... wink) 60
Inserting a Queen-Cell.: 2. c..02. fence oe 62
Nucleus Colonies. ..........0.<'.'ssclei-s aie mins 64
Dividing the Colonies, :..5 1. .felesets »\./< ee 65
Swarming ; how.to Controlit. ........2-t0- ogee 67
How to Hive a Swarm. 2.30404 0.05. s ¢s08 eee 69
The Loss of the Queen... 0... +. -s,.). eee 69
What are Fertile Workers. ¢ 22%: s.s0 6 90 04h eae fa
Transferring Bees from Box Hives........... saa 12
Transferring Bees from Movable Frame Hives..... T4
*(, Uniting Weak Colonies... 22). 42+... 1-54. sae jet 1A
MANAGING AND QUIETING BEEs.
Feeding Bees.......... sts ot cvwie le ie eae it, Be
Robber Bees: .:...s.catre cae cbt anciee 26 ME ae 75
Quieting and Handling Bees... :.. wane net oe
Shipping Queens and Colanicn: wake anceatand: alk Wend OR

Bee Diseases icc sia 8 ce cena & oe igmlneek hy eee 79

x

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS,

PAGE.

Pe AOHBET DCG. WAST. «2 oss Bb oscars ARE We Siew o's dbl 14
2. ead of Queen, magnified... ct). 00 diwes oe 0 dbs be eaten. 14
3. Ovaries of the Queen, magnified....... mi cacvchiodh dk ct'ala Stele, 15
fe he JOTOneasee. MAONITER. <4. Cascade &.-Jaipicie ihe ases aiuraler et 16
#. ciead of the Drone, magnified. io. 5.6 wees c fae Cale ate o's 17
aeWorker bee, Magninied 25.00%}. c. cc cies sondnsicce me te DS
ie Head.of the Worker Bee, magnified... ...2....0..06. 18
8. Anterior Leg of Worker, magnified .................. 19
ears amd, DOO MAGNTIED .. oc as. seis siss ste ce ve leeees 19
10. Under Surface of Worker showing Wax.............. 20
Piper ona wrame Of ISrOOd so. Go. seks ok 0. oo Pe a. 23
fe olc-style Langstroth Hive... os. ds enc. cic bes a eler ce ones 36
Is. New-style Langstroth Hive.........0.cscccenccececene 37
AOI LORE ApAC Kap ov cents + <.ca o.« oro wide oes oo o's se cee ve 38
eat TIZe EVOMCY ESOK A, a pare alae <' a oats hc dhe hisses owas oteat ee 39
Peo Ve-Lalled SECtION Ei ais os,cc ae Suess bo. Soee ls eateleds os 39
Aig PALOONE |S, ONC DOIeis ssh ween sine baci Seren ce ps nutee ee 40
18. Case of Prize Boxes for Langstroth Hive............. 40
19. Case of Eight Small Sections for Langstroth Hive... 41
20. Shipping Crate to contain 12 Prize Boxes............. 41
pie isi oats tor Glassing BOXES sc 755. eas os be wo eels era's o's 42
Pe OOMUD ONO M OCALTION . ois oan chron Ree vin chee o's opines oe ee 42
Dat MODE OWE SAW oct s tacigs + acitwacenieine’s bese ase der neides 43
rae EACUIEUL SNIPES EAN, sic/0 0/26 als atqarertes v so a oe 6 Mebie’e a's on ae ome es 45
oo. EXCelsiorsHomey WXtractOr fo. css. kein Sve cs wkeeaes« 50
26. Strainer to cover Entrance to Honey Gate............ 51
27. Comb Basket of Excelsior Extractor................. 51
Pes Sconeid. Honey, Knee. . ca, cd. ce cwteinc’n wins aees ee eae 52
29. Comb Foundation ......... TE ete ea VS Fiscal sic x teed a 8 53
au. Comb FPoundauiom Macnine )... 2... co iaw cee cece eds 54
31. Bases and Cross-Sections of Cells .................... 54
Soa’ Ss: FOUNGAtIOM OULLER oc. su dew Sse eleres ie eWay wee e's 55
33. Grooved Board for Cutting Starters’.................. 56
See SMI SSaNY A XO UMN PE OL sic. fe oan ban MSS wit ed w Sjea's Kee 'taes 6 57
sa, Mandible of Queens Magnified. ol oP Pee ae es eee ba os 60
s6; Valentine’s Frame Stand .... 0.55. ..5 6.5. Ge HAO Gee ree 61
Stas ALOMIZer LOY Spraying BES 2.2 fo. yee oc ca edn es che se 62

BEE CULTURE.

PAGE
38. Finished Queen Cell, ceiled over ................0000- 63
oo. A tipe Queen Wells vo... lees ecde beeen cl een ee 63
40 DDiVISION BOAR 5, 6545 hia 2g ates eaters ov a ele 64
41. Davis’ Queen Nursery... boc. css: age Coot. ate 66
42. Queen Registering Slate. 2.264. - «cess s,- «tle eee 67
43. Legs of Italian Worker Bee... ....247....05 5222 70
44, Ovaries of a Fertile Worker............0.c0sesceesees 71
45. Frame of Transterréd Comb 2... ..5... 66% 420-5 se eee 72
46: Wired Siteks, for Transferring’: . >.>. <i.5¢ecesok eee 73
47. "Transterring. Boand so ese da we. wc oo cee ta ee ee 74
48. Van Deusen Bee-Feeder <...........0.. 0 ccs cenccecnaes 76
49. Method of Filling Van Deusen Bee-Feeder........... 76
50. ‘Simplicity Bee Feeder . 2... 063. oss... ne bss vie eee 76
51. Bingham Smoker .......... beddaislees beat out ogee ht
52. Bee Veil—complete face protection................... 77
58. Alsike Clover. i. ov2.5%4¥i st aetue s Jens - ohh. 4
54. Scovell Queen Cage... 6c. neti San cess sone eee 78
bos SIMDICILy Queen Games. isc cee e oe eee: «oe PR Ne ic 79
56

2 White Cloverieiuidies doe een evel Ue 10

Fig. 56.— White Clover.

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE,

INTRODUCTION.

Every apiarist should be well informed, not only on the
habits, but also on the Natural History of the Honey Bee.

Man’s primeval state, no doubt, absolutely demanded
honey—therefore to have neglected to produce such a crea-
ture as the Honey Bee, so essential to the comfort of man,
‘“‘for whom all things were made,” would have been totally
discordant with the well-known principles of universal and
Divine benevolence. Could any song of birds in Eden’s
enchanting bower surpass the mellifluous hum of the busy
Bee? Could any sportive gambol, circling flight, sudden
dart, or graceful curve of bird on the wing, equal the grace
and beauty, the action.and the science of her aerial sports
or daily duties ? Could the combined aroma and symmetri-
cal form of the thousands of “the flowers of Paradise’ com-
pare with the sweetness of her honey or the garniture of her
store house ? Could any portion of “the garden,’ which
Adam was directed to “dress and keep,’ present greater
attraction, or have stronger claims upon his protection and
care ?

While Honey was “from the beginning’’ among the first
of sweet things, and the sweetest of first things, given by the
Creator to man,—sugar is, separated from its source and

prepared for use by the hand of man, but of modern birth !—
For thousands of years Honey was man’s only sweet, and
source of nourishment,—but only for a short time has sugar
had its partial sway—and that alone in modern times. The
former was the creation and gift of God! The latter is”
the invention of man !

No historian has been able to transmit to our day, a

b

12 BEE CULTURE.

description of the rude home that Noah provided for the
bees that he carried into the ark, nor tell us if Abraham’s
bees were kept in log-gums or box hives, but it 7s recorded
that the land where Abraham dwelt—Canaan—was one
“flowing with milk and honey;”and when the old Patriarch,
because of the famine that prevailed there, sent his sons to
Egypt to buy corn, he sent as a present to the Egyptian
ruler some of Canaan’s famous honey.—Gen. 43: 11.

We may well conclude that Canaan’s honey was then as
famous as in subsequent ages was the honey from Mount
Hymettus, in Greece.

The earliest mention of honey as an article of commerce,
is, that the Jews were engaged in trading it at Tyre, that old
and honored mart of trade in Pheenicia.—Ezek. 27 : 17.

Sirach, who lived about the time of the re-building of the
Temple at Jerusalem, speaking of the necessaries of life,
mentions honey, with flour and milk.

The Persians, Grecians and Romans, used honey quite
extensively as an article of dict ; they also used it largely in
preparing their food, and by it, most of their beverages were
sweetened.

Ancient Sages, among whom were Hoes Herodotus,
Cato, Aristotle, Varro, Virgil, Pliny and Columella,
composed poems "extolling the activity, skill and economy of
bees, and in more modern times, among such authors have
been Swammerdam, a German natur alist ; Maraldi, an Italian
mathematician ; Schirach, a Saxon priest ; Réaumur, inventor
of a themometer ; Bonnet, a Swiss entomologist ; ‘Dr. John
Hunter ; and Francis Huber, who, though totally blind, was
noted for his many minute observations, by the aid of his
assistant, Burnens, which caused quite a revolution in
ancient theories concerning the Honey Bee. He was also
assisted by Mdle. Jurine, who, by delicate microscopic
examinations, rendered important service not only to Huber,
but also to future generations.

But space forbids us to enumerate all the apiarists of the
present age—prominent among whom we may mention
Dzierzon, Von Berlepsch, Leuckart, Von Siebold, Sir John
Lubbock, the Rev. L. L. Langstroth, Samuel Wagner, M.
Quinby, Adam Grimm, J. 8. Harbison, Capt. J. HE. Hether-

BEE CULTURE. ts

ington, Professor A. J. Cook, and a mighty host of others,
who, through faith in scientific research and devotion to
experiments and manipulations, have wrought wonders with
their Bees. ‘Pulling down the strong-holds”’ of old-fogy
opposition, they “waxed valiant in fight” against all forms
of ignorant and fossilized theories, consigning them to a
burial with the fallacies of past ages—and, as if by magic .
wand, they have bidden modern ideas and scientific manage-
ment of the Apiary to “ arise and shine,” sending its benign
influences to the very ends of the earth!

THE RACES OF BEES.

Of the different races of the Honey Bee, the German or
black bee is the most numerous, though it is not older than
the Italians, which were known to the ancients several hun-
dred years before the Christian era, and are mentioned by
Aristotle and Virgil. The Egyptian, Carniolan, Cyprian
and Javan bees are but little known in this country. The
Italian being the favorite because of its docility, activity and
captivating beauty.

A COLONY OF BEES.

In its usual working condition, a colony of bees presents
a scene of the most lively interest, not only to the naturalist,
but also to every curious observer. Such a colony will con-
tain a fertile Queen, thirty to forty thousand of workers, and
in some seasons, a few hundreds of drones.

THE QUEEN.

The Mother Bee, as she is called in many countries,
especially in Italy, is the only perfect female in the Colony,
and is the mother of it. Her only duty is to lay the eggs for
the propagation of the species. She is a little larger around
the body than the Worker, but not as large as the Drone.—
Her body is longer than the Worker, but her wings are only
about two-thirds of the length of the body, her abdomen
gradually tapering to a point. She has a sting, but uses it
only upon royalty.

The Queen usually leaves the hive only when accompany-
ing a swarm, and when a few days old, to meet the drones,

14 BEE CULTURE.

for the purpose of becoming fertile.. Once becoming such
she is so for life, though she often lives three or four years.
On her return to the hive, after meeting the Drones, if she
has been fecundated, the male organs may be seen attached

Fig. 1.—The Queen Bee, magnified.

to her abdomen. In about two days after thus mating with
the Drone she will commence to lay eggs, and she is capable
of laying two thousand, or more, eggs per day.

Instinct teaches the Workers the necessity of having a
Queen that is prolific, and should she become barren from

Fie. 2.—Head of Queen, magnified.

any cause, or be lost, they immediately prepare to raise
another to take her place. This they do by building Queen
cells, and if, when these are about one-half completed, the
Queen has not deposited eggs in any of them, they take

BEE CULTURE. 15

eggs from worker cells and supply them. By feeding tlie
embryo Queen with royal jelly, the egg that would have pro-
duced a Worker, had it remained in a Worker cell, becomes

a Queen.

The Ovaries of the Queen, occupying a large portion of
the abdomen, will be found to be two pear-shaped
bodies, composed of 160 to 180 minute tubes, the tubes
being bound together by enveloping air vessels. These are
the ovaries, of ‘which a highly magnified view is here given.

Fie. 3.—The Ovaries of the Queen.

The germs of the eggs originate in the upper ends of the
tubes which compose the ovary, and the eggs develop in their
onward passage, so that at the time of the busy laying season,
each one of the tubes will contain, at its lower end, one or
more mature eggs, with several others in a less developed
state following them. These tubes terminate on each side
in the oviduct, through which the egg passes into the
vagina ; and, in ‘the cut, an egg will be seen in the oviduct,
on the right. (Fig. 3). A globular sac will be noted,
attached to the main oviduct by a short, tubular stem.

A French naturalist, M. Audouin, first discovered the true

16 BEE CULTURE. °

character of this sac as the spermatheca, which contains the
male semen ; and Prof. Leuckart computes its size as suffi-
cient to contain, probably, twenty-five millions of seminal
filaments. It seems hardly possible that so large a number
should ever be found in the spermatheca, as it would require
nearly twenty years to exhaust the supply, if the queen
should lay daily 2000 eggs, 365 days in the year, and each
ege be impregnated. Bach egg which receives one of the
seminal filaments in passing, will produce a worker or queen,
while an unimpregnated ege will produce only a drone. The
spermatheca of an unfecundated queen contains only a trans-
parent liquid with no seminal filaments, and the eggs of such
a queen produce only drones.

The Queen usually lays from February to October, but
early in the spring she lays sparingly. When fruit and
flowers bloom, and the bees are getting honey and pollen, she
Jays more rapidly.

THE DRONES.

These are non-producers, and live on the toil and industry
of others. They are the males, and have no sting—neither

Fig. 4.—The Drone Bee, magnified.

have they any means of gathering honey or secreting wax, or
doing any work that is even necessary to their own support,
or the common good of the colony.

The Drones are shorter, thicker and more bulky than the
Queen, and their wings reach the entire length of their
body. They are much larger and clumsier than the
Workers, and are covered with a short but fine hair. Their

BEE CULTURE. 17

buzzing when on the wing is much louder and differs from
the others. Their only use is to serve the Queen when on
her “bridal trip.”

Not more than one in a thousand is ever privileged to
perform that duty, but as the Queen’s life is very valuable,
and the dangers surrounding her flight are numerous, it is
necessary to “have a sufficient number of them, in order that
her absence from the hive may not be protracted. After
mating, she returns to the hive a fertile Queen for life.

The Drone in the act of copulation loses his life, dying
instantly. At the approach of the swarming season they are

Fig. 5.—Head of Drone, magnified.

reared to fertilize the young Queens; after that is accom-
plished, they are mercilessly destroyed by the Workers.

Should a colony lose its Queen, the Drones will be
retained later; instinct teaching them that without the
Drone, the young Queen would remain unfertilized, and the
colony soon become extinct.

THE WORKERS.

These are undeveloped females, and they do all the work that
is done in the hive. They secrete the wax, build the comb,
gather the pollen for the young, and honey for all ; feed and
rear the brood, and fight all the battles necessary ‘to defend
the colony.

- Of the three kinds of bees, these are the smallest, but
constitute the great mass of the population. They possess

18 BEE CULTURE.

the whole ruling power of the colony and regulate its
economy.

The workers are provided with a sack or honey-bag ; there
isa small cavity on their posterior legs, (Fig. 43, A.) in which
they store the pollen of flowers in very small lumps, being ~

Fie. 6.—The Worker Bee, magnified.

the most convenient form in which to carry it home. They
are also provided with a sting, which they use only for
defense. . :

They gather honey, which is a secretion in many flowers—
pollen, which is the farina of various plants, and which is
largely used in forming bee-bread, and also propolis or bee-

Fie. 7.—Head of Worker, magnified.

glue, a resinous substance that is used in fastening the combs
to thé sides of hives, and to fill cracks or open places.

Many persons entertain the idea that the Worker bees live
many years. Their conclusion is drawn from the fact that
colonies inhabit the same hive for along period ; but the
natural life of the Worker honey-bee does not exceed six

BEE CULTURE. 19

months, and from recent experiments it is ascertained that it
does not exceed six or eight weeks in the height of the honey
season. Those reared in the fall, having little out-docr work
to perform, will live till the spring. None of them die of

Fie. 8.— Anterior Ley of Worker, magnified.

old age, but the majority work themselves to death, and many
are killed through other causes.

BROOD.

The egg is laid by the Queen, in the bottom of the cell ; in
three days it hatches into a small, white worm, called larva,
which being fed by the bees, increases rapidly in size ; when
this larva nearly fills the cell, it is closed up by the bees.

q

Fie. 9.—Eggs and Brood.

The time usually taken for this process is eight days for the
Worker or Queen, and 94 days for the Drone. |
The Workers will develop from the egg in 21 days; gath-
ering honey from about 16 days after emerging from the cell.
The Drones will hatch in 24 days, and if the weather is
propitious they will “fly” in a few days after. The Queens

20 BEE CULTURE.

mature in 16 days, and are able to fly in a few hours after
emerging from the cell.

Until the 17th day the workers seem only to be fit for the
work of the hive. Before that age they seldom leave the
hive—their labors being confined to the building of the
comb, nursing the brood, feeding the larvee, capping brood
and honey cells, &e.

PRODUCTION OF WAX AND COMB.

This subject is an intensely interesting study. Before
the time of Huber, it was generally supposed that wax was
made from bee-bread; but Huber fully demonstrated that
bees could construct comb from honey, without the aid of
bee-bread. But, oxygen, being the support of animal heat,
is essential to bees while building comb, because ar extraor-
dinary amount of heat must be generated, to enable them to
soften the wax and mould it into such delicate forms.

We herewith present a cut of the under surface of the Bee,
showing the wax formation between the segments :

_ Fie. 10.—Under surface of Worker, showing Waa in Segments.

Dr. Donhoff states that in new comb the thickness of the
sides of the cells is but the 180th part of an inch! Such
delicate work is hardly conceivable; and yet, bees often
make it in the dark, on cool, cloudy days, or in the night—
appearing never to rest.

Prof. Duncan, professor of Geology in King’s College,

BEE CULTURE. 21

London, in his work on the “ Transformation of Insects,”
remarks as follows on this interesting subject :

“The production of wax is one of the most remarkable
physiological phenomena of the organization of these Hy-
menoptera. It was generally thought, formerly, that the
bees disgorged their wax from the mouth, and Réaumur
certainly held this opinion ; but John Hunter discovered the
Manner in which the wax was formed ; and it is now evident
that the bees carry within themselves this important building
material. The segments of the abdomen of bees overlap
from before backwards, but when the margin of one is lifted
up, two broad and smooth surfaces will be noticed on the
uncovered surface of the next wing ; these surfaces maintain
during one part of the year two thin, white, and almost trans-
parent lamine, which are really composed of wax. The wax
Is really secreted by some small glands which are within the
abdomen, and it transludes through the soft and smooth
integument between the rings or segments. It would appear
that the sugary matters which are sucked and digested by
the bees are to a great extent transformed into wax, which
is to all intents and purposes a sort of fat.” )
- A writer in Seribner’s Monthly thus describes the manner
of comb building in a new swarm :

“When a swarm of bees is about to leave its old home
and seek another, each bee fills itself with honey. After
entering their new home, the gorged bees suspend themselves
in festoons, hanging from the top of the hive. They hang
motionless for about 24 hours. During this time the honey
has been digested and»converted into a peculiar animal oil,
which collects itself in scales or laminz beneath the abdomi-
nal rings. This is the wax. One of the workers, called the
_ founder, then draws from its own body, by means of its

clawed foot, a scale of wax. This it breaks down and crum-
bles, and works with its mouth and mandibles till it becomes
pliable, and it then issues from the mouth in the form of a
long, narrow ribbon, made white and soft by an admixture of
saliva from the tongue. Meanwhile the other bees are
making ready their material in the same way. On the ceiling
of the hive an inverted, solid arch of wax is built, and from
this the first foundation cells are excavated, all the subse-

22 BEE CULTURE.

quent ones being built up and around these, which are
usually three in number. The size and shape of the cell is
determined by its future use; but all comb is formed of two
sheets of cells placed back to back, the partition walls of the
two sheets always alternating with one another. If the
comb is intended for brood, 25 cells of worker-brood, and 16
of drone, go to the square inch.” |

Neighbour, in his work on “The Apiary,” says:

‘Wax is the animal fat of the bees, and to produce it
requires a considerable consumption of honey, to supply the
drain upon the system. To be capable of passing through
the pores of the abdomen, the wax must, no doubt, bea
liquid, oily matter, which, on making its appearance outside
the abdominal rings, thickens, and exudes from under the 4
medial ones, in flakes like fish-scales, one on each side ; so
that there are 8 of these secreting cavities, which are pecu-
liar to the worker, not being found either in the queen or
drone.

“The rapidity with which comb-building progresses would
lead to the supposition that there is a division of labor among
bees, just as laborers convey building material to the artisans
on the scaffold above. This work of comb-building is carried
forward in warm weather, for a cold temperature interferes
with the secretion of wax. Von Berlepsch declares that he
has known cases in which a colony has built 300 square
inches of comb in a single night!”

The Rey. L. L. Langstroth remarks as follows :

“Tt is an interesting fact, which seems hitherto to have
escaped notice, that honey-gathering and comb-building go
on simultaneously ; so that when one stops, the other ceases
also. As soon as the honey-harvest begins to fail, so that
consumption is in advance of production, the bees cease to
build new comb, even although large portions of their hives
are unfilled. When honey no longer abounds in the fields,
it is wisely ordered that they should not consume in comb-
building, the treasures which may. be needed for winter use.
What safer rule could have been given them ?”

With all our ingenuity and skill, we have been entirely
unable to equal the bees as builders. Only fancy what
delicate work it takes to produce comb, the 180th part of an

BEE CULTURE. 3

inch thick!! True, we take the wax they produce, melt it
up, spread it into sheets, and then configurate it, showing
the base or foundation of the cells—but there our inventive ©
genius, for the present at least, ‘takes a rest.’’ In compari-
son with their workmanship, ours is as a thick sheet of
wrapping paper to a delicate sheet of tissue paper !

It is estimated that it takes about 20 pounds of honey to
produce one pound of wax ; it is therefore all-important that
all good pieces of comb should be preserved and given again
to the bees. :

There are three kinds of cells inahive. The smaller ones
are hexagonal, and a little more than one-fifth of an inch in
diameter, and are called Worker cells ; the larger ones of the
same shape are one-fourth of an inch in diameter, and are

Fig. 11.—F'rame of Brood.

called Drone cells. These cells may be seen illustrated in
Fig. 11. The smaller or Worker cells being shown at the
top ; the larger or Drone cells, at the bottom. The other
cells, of different size and shape, (see Fig. 11.) are Queen
cells; one is shown in the centre of the engraving, and
four more on the left: They extend vertically or diagonally
downwards, and very much resemble a peanut in form and
size—they are simply the birth-place of Queens, and are

24 BEE CULTURE.

only built in swarming time, or when the colony is rearing a
Queen. The W orker or Drone cells are used not only for
brood-rearing, but also for storing honey and pollen, or hee-
bread.

At first when the combs are built, they are. generally trans-
parently white, but with age and use for brood-rearing they
become dark and opaque. “The thin cocoons lining the cells,
help to make them so; such are, however, just. as valuable
for breeding purposes for a long time, or until the size is
materially diminished, thereby causing dwarfed brood. It is
also valuable for storing honey, where the Extractor is used.

POLLEN OR BEE BREAD.

This is the fertilizing dust, or fine meal-like substance,
-which the bees procure from the stamens of flowers. When
deprived of bloom, they will take flour in lieu thereof. Bees
collect pollen and carry it in their pollen baskets (Fig. 43, A.)
to the hive and store it for daily or future use.

When mixed with honey it is used to feed the young ;
older bees use it also for food, to elaborate wax, &e.

Bees only gather one kind of pollen at a time. While
different bees may carry in several colors at the same time,
the pellets on any one bee will be all alike.

Bees require water when comb-building and brood-rearing
is going on, and should have access to it. :

PROPOLIS OR BEE GLUE.

This is also collected, like pollen, by the bees, from resin-
ous buds, and is used for fastening combs, coating uneven
surfaces, and filling up cracks within the hive. They also.
sometimes use it in hermetically sealing up any offensive
matter that may be too burdensome for them to remove from
their hives.

THE ESTABLISHMENT OF AN APIARY.

SITUATION, STOCKING AND ARRANGEMENT.

An enthusiastic admirer of the elegant habits of Bees,
presistently enquires, Did any one ever sufficiently admire—
did he, indeed, ever notice—the entire elegance of the
habits and pursuits of bees? their extraction of nothing but
the quintessence of the flowers; their preference for those
that have the finest and least adulterated odor ; their avoid-
ance of everything squalid (so unlike flies) ; their eager
ejection or exclusion of it from the hive, as the instance of
carcasses of intruders, which, if they cannot drag away, they
cover up and entomb ; their love of clean, quiet, and delicate
neighborhoods —thymy places with brooks ; their singularly
clean arrangement of so liquid and adhesive a thing as
honey, from which they issue forth to their work as if they
had nothing to do with it; their combination with honey-
making, of the elegant manufacture of wax, of which they
make their apartments; their orderly policy ; their delight
in sunshine ; their apparent indifference to anything regard-
ing themselves, apart from the common good ?

BEE-KEEPING A SCIENCE.

To succeed in any calling, we must first gain a reasonable
amount of knowledge of the science upon which are founded
the rules of that art. Bee-keeping is a science, having for
its object the attainment of a correct knowledge of all that
pertains to the habits and instincts of these wonderful in-
sects ; and a practical art which regards all the attainments
thus made as the only reliable basis of successful bee-culture.
Therefore, to make the pursuit both pleasant and profitable
we must possess the requisite knowledge of the laws that
govern these industrious creatures.

26 BEE CULTURE.

Reading and study as well as experience and observation
are essential to obtain this knowledge. The lacking of these
things will account for the many failures of those whose
enthusiasm is not supported by experimental knowledge! __

Hvery apiarist, therefore, must read and study, in order to
practice the art with pleasure and profit.

WHO SHOULD KEEP BEES ?

Many embark in this occupation who .should not; being
better adapted to some other. Only those should do so who
are fond of the study of nature, particularly of the nature and
habits of the honey bee! They must be willing to adopt the
valuahle improvements of the present day, and keep pace
with this progressive age ; they must be able to control them-
selves, in order to control their bees. Such only will suce-
ceed—while those who still cling to the brimstone and old
fogy notions of their fathers, and who are averse to progress-
ive bee-keeping, who shun the little pets on account of their
pungent weapons, and when stung retaliate with more ferocity
and less judgment than would become a mere animal—can
never succeed, and should avoid bee-culture.

The. careless, slovenly and lazy person should not keep
bees. The care of an apiary is more than it is usually con-
ceived to be—it is work / Work for the brain, as well as
the hands and feet !

SUITABLE LOCATION.

As this work is intended principally for beginners and
those unacquainted with the business of! bee-keeping, we.
shall not discuss those questions which alone interest the
advanced apiarist as to location, &&. We simply say: Get
a good location where fruit and flowers abound, and where
white clover and linden or basswood is found. Almost any-
where within the United States will be good.

One thing we would say: Don’t go where there are
already many other bee-keepers, for several reasons: 1st.—
If you should have Italians, you don’t want to have your
queens fertilized by impure drones. 2d. The pasturage
may not be sufficient to support more bees. 3d. Older bee-
keepers may think you are “treading on their toes,” and it
. may lead to unpleasant feelings, and a disastrous competition.

BEE CULTURE. 24

A territory of three or four miles all alone is quite a luxury,
if you intend keeping bees for profit.

Our apiary is located in Chicago, close to one of
the main thoroughfares and street-car lines, and the results
in both increase of colonies and honey has been exceedingly
satisfactory. Mr. Muth, of Cincinnati, has his apiary on
the roof of his store—and is successful with it.

We use saw-dust under and around the hives, to prevent
the springing up of grass to the annoyance of the bees.—
Some use sand or gravel for the same object, with success.

A timber range is very desirable, for a large portion of
their honey and pollen they gather from timber and shrubs.
Many good localities are found near rivers or streamlets,
where linden, sumac, maple, willow, cottonwood, and other
trees, shrubs and vines that yield honey and pollen abound.

The bees should be near the house, or where they can be
heard when they swarm. They should be so located that the
north and west winds would not strike them, where they can
have a warm, calm place to alight.

A hedge, high board-fence, or building on the north and
west are a protection against the strong winds which destroy
very many laboring bees in the spring, when one bee is worth
as much as a dozen in the latter part of summer, as they are
then much needed to care for the brood and keep it warm.

If, in April, the day has been rather warm and the evening
cool and windy, hundreds of bees may be found on the
ground in front of the hive, perhaps loaded with pollen, but
exhausted from the flight and chilled with cold. As they
approach the hive they relax their exertions, and a light
whiff of wind dashes them to the ground, from which they
are unable to arise, and before the sun could warm them up, the
next morning, they will be dead.

If you have no shade for your bees, it would be best to
plant fruit trees among them. These would not only supply
them with pollen and honey in blooming time, but acceptable
shade.in hot summer days. Another thing is apparent, 7. e.,
the fruit would be a remuneration. The bees would fructify
the trees and make them to bear plentifully—while in return,
the trees would afford to the bees that shade which they so
much require, from the hurning rays of the sun. |

28 BEE CULTURE.
WHICIT WAY SHOULD HIVES FACE.

There seems to be no facing superior to the one that allows
the sun’s rays to shine directly into the entrance of a hive
at 11:30 a.m. There is not a difference of any consequence
between a south, south-east or south-west aspect, and selection
may be made to suit the apiarist’s notion. Next to this, we
should say, face to the east ; if this is impossible, then west
—and when no other is available, submit to a north frontage.

WHEN TO COMMENCE.

The reason why many are unsuccessful is that they com-
mence at the wrong TIME. It may have been noticed that
about every third year has been a poor season for bees.
After such a season but few will commence; while, if the
next is a good one, many think the matter worthy of their
attention, and if this is followed by another prosperous year,
they then decide to embark. But alas, that is just the time
to meet the third year’s reverse. Those, therefore, who
engage in the business should not be discouraged at one
reverse.

Karly in the spring is the best time to begin—and thus
secure an increase of bees as well as honey the first year. |

HOW MANY COLONIES TO BEGIN WITH.

Purchase a colony from some reliable| breeder or dealer,
and in order to get experience, increase/ from one or two
colonies—not more.

As it is essential to know WHAT to do, WHEN to do it, and
HOW to do it, we cannot too strongly advise the beginner to
purchase a good manual of the apiary, and STUDY IT WELL.
This is absolutely essential to success.

REMOVING BEES.

After procuring the bees and selecting the location and
position in the apiary, the next thing is to know when and
how to remove the bees. In thespring or fall will be the best
time to remove them. In the hot weather the combs may be
broken down in transit, and general ruin may be the result.

In September or October they may be removed with safety,

BEE CULTURE. 25

but the best time to begin an apiary is in April or May.
Only strong colonies should be purchased, unless nuciei colo-
nies are desired in the spring to build up into strong ones by
the fall.

If the distance is less than half a mile, they should be
removed late in the fall, or the purchaser may lose heavily by
the bees going back to their old location. Only a few days
since, we heard of a man buying a few colonies of bees of
his neighbor ; and, to his surprise, only the young bees, brood
and Queen remained, after a few days—the old ones having

one back to their former location, and either died in trying
to find their old home or united with other colonies.

It is necessary, however, for their health that shortly after
completing their journey they should have one or two fine
days on which they can go out and relieve themselves. The
disturbance created by transport causes every bee to fill itself
with honey, and the condition thereby induced is unfavorable
to lengthened confinement. We can always calculate on a
fine day occurring after a short interval, in the fall—but one
suitable for bee flight may not happen in winter till after the
lapse of several weeks. If bees eat freely, and are constrained
by an inclement atmosphere to remain long within their hives,
evil consequences follow. This is what sometimes causes
destruction to colonies moved in winter.

WHAT KIND OF BEES TO GET.

Some prefer to purchase black bees in box hives, and then
transfer them to movable frame hives in order to get expe-
rience. In that case, they should be populous colonies with
the comb yellow or brown. Then the honey received will
help to pay for the cost of transferring.

The best satisfaction may be obtained by phivetiaaihis strong
Italian colonics in the spring. Such will, doubtless, in a few
seasons, pay for themselves, thus proving the cheapest in the
end, though a little more outlay is*required at first. One
such colony is worth two of the former.

To examine a BOX HIVE, incline it to one side, looking
from the bottom up, between the combs. By using a smoker,
the bees may be driven back, and one may discover if it has

30 BEE CULTURE.

capped brood, larvee and plenty of bees. It should have such.
to be considered in good condition.

BUYING “SWARMS.”

A first swarm is always to be preferred, and if possible
from a hive that swarmed the previous year, for then the old
queen will be in her second year, vigorous and at her best.
A small, second swarm should be passed by, in purchasing.
Arrange the frames 12 inches from centre to centre ; tilt the
hive forward, at an angle of 20 to 25 degrees, and they will
be almost certain to build straight on the comb-guides. If
an old hive is purchased, let it be a heavy one in the spring,
with straight comb coming entirely down to the bottom of
the frames.

HOW TO CARE FOR A FIRST COLONY.

If it comes by express or freight, from a dealer or bee
raiser—take it home carefully in a spring wagon. Be sure
that the combs run lengthwise of the wagon ; drive slowly
and handle with care. Place the hive in the position you
wish it to occupy, and let it remain till evening, when the
wire cloth that is usually nailed over the entrance may be
removed, and some board or other obstacle placed in front of
the hive, so that when the bees come out in the morning,
they will circle around and mark the logation, before going
to their work, and thus return in due time with safety.—
About mid-day, it may be well to open| the hive and see
whether any combs are broken down, and if so, get them
straightened up, and fastened either with twine or wire, until
the bees have secured them, when such fastenings ‘should be
removed. Be sure to smoke them well, before opening the
hive.

BEES KEPT ON SHARES.

As some may desire to keep bees ‘on shares’”—though
we never think it desirable to do so, as it so often leads to
misunderstandings and quarrels—we will give the usual
“terms” of such contracts :

It is usual for one party to furnish the hives of bees, and
the other party the care and labor. The expense of new
hives, surplus boxes, comb foundation and queens is usually

BEE CULTURE. . 31

divided equally, and at the end of the season the honey and
increase of bees are equally divided—leaving each to take all
chances of marketing, as well as wintering.

Always make a written contract, stating the agreement in
full, and then there will be less liability of a misunderstanding.

BEES MARKING THEIR LOCATION.

This is done through the sense of sight. A large per-
centage of the bees that fly out in the early spring are those
that have come into being during the winter and early spring ;
consequently they do not leave the hive in a straight line,
but only go a few inches, then turn their heads towards the
hive and oscillate back and forth in front of it ; then moving
further back, still hovering in front of the hive, with their
heads towards the entrance, occasionally advancing towards
it, asif to note more particularly the place of entrance and its
immediate surroundings, they then increase the distance,
taking a survey of buildings, trees, fences, or other noticeable
objects near by, after which they return to the hive, and start
in a direct line from it. On returning, they come directly to
the hive and enter ; the surrounding objects and the color of
the hive are all noted by the bees.

CHANGING THE LOCATION.

It is desirable not to change the location of hives, unless
it becomes absolutely necessary to do so. After the bees
have become familiar with their location, should the hive be.
moved a few feet, they will not notice it when departing on
’ their daily rounds, and if there are other hives near, they
may perish in attempting to enter other hives or in wander-
ing about, seeking their own home.

When it becomes necessary to move the hives, it should
be done gradually, not exceeding the breadth of the hive
each day. Or if they are to be moved several rods, alarm
them by smoke blown into the entrance, then close it, and
remove, placing some obstacle before the hive previous to
opening the entrance again. In moving half a mile or more,
the result is different ; they note the new locality and return
to it.

32 , ' BEE CULTURE.

PREPARATION OF BEES FOR WINTER.

The conditions for out-door wintering with success, are :—
Strong colonies, secured by late breeding, 30 pounds of good,
capped honey, and vigorous queens. ‘If hives are packed
with good, dry, absorbing material, with an air space of two
or three inches below them, and an opportunity given for
the moisture generated by the bees to gradually pass off,
without permitting a draft of air through the hives, there will
be no trouble with them, either in winter or spring.

T. B. Miner, an apiarist of considerable experience, says :
“When hives are set about a foot apart, upon low stands,
they may be protected by driving stakes on both sides of
them, (front and rear), and at the ends ; and then fill in
compactly all around them with hay or straw, two or three ©
inches thick, with a temporary roof of boards to keep the
straw dry. This protection is sufficient for any latitude,
however cold it may be, and enables the bees to winter with
as little loss generally as occurs under any other system.—
The passage-ways to the hives must not be obstructed by the
straw, as bees require an occasional flight in mild weather.
Another way is to have cheap, outside boxes made, open
at both ends, which are to be placed over the hives, and the
open space (two or three inches) on each/ side filled with
straw, packed in, firmly. A hole in each box, cut out in
front of the openings in the hives, havin something placed
in it to keep the passage-way from being shut up with straw,
will afford the bees egress and ingress, when it is safe to
allow them to take a flight. re

The requirements to. winter bees in cellars are, dryness
and darkness, with the thermometer ranging from 35 to 45
degrees ; prolific queens, 30 pounds of good, capped honey,
(no glucose, nor uncapped honey that will ferment,) a quilt
over the frames to absorb the moisture, and a free passage for
air all around and below the hives, to prevent dampness, and
a ventilator running to the bottom of the cellar, to carry off |
the impure air.

Mrs. Harrison remarks very pithily: “ The truth ina
nut-shell, with regard to wintering bees, appears to be this:
Confine the bees to as small a space as they can crowd into,
with a plenty of good food, pure air, warmth and dryness.”

BEE CULTURE. 33

If the cellar gets too warm, cool it ; if too cold, warm it.—
Let them remain until settled warm weather comes in the
spring, and thus avoid “dwindling,” by bees flying out and
becoming chilled, not being able to return to their hives.

CLIPPING THE QUEEN’S WING.

This is done to prevent her from leaving with a swarm. In
attempting to fly she will fall to the ground in front of the
hive, and the bees missing her, will return to the hive. This
must not be done until after the queen has met the drones,
or she will remain unfertile for life. To perform the opera-
tion, open the hive and lift the frame carefully, and avoid
jars ; when the queen is seen—with a pair of sharp-pointed
scissors, lift one of the front wings and cut off about one-half
of it. It is better that she be walking, or at least standing,
so that a leg be not cut off with the wing. She should not
be handled ; if it becomes -necessary to pick her up, be sure
not to take her by the abdomen. She may be held by the
wings without danger.

BEE ENEMIES.

The greatest enemy the bee has is man’s “ignorance.”
Strong colonies of Italians are proof against the moth, but
not against ‘‘ignorance’’ in their keeper.

LUCK OR SCIENCE ? WHICH ?

While some are said to be lucky with bees—others could
never have any luck with them. Some will not sell their
bees, others will not even give them away! Still others will
neither sell nor give them away, but will allow them to be
stolen, if sufficient money be left on the stand to cover their
value. Some superstitious ones contend that when a member
of the family dies, some one must go and whisper it to the
bees or they will do no good afterwards. A host of other
whims could be arrayed, belonging to the age of" superstition.

A vigorous writer correctly affirms that ‘“ practical knowl-
edge is the only secret of success.” Stock-growers tell us if
they want to raise good stock they must attend to them, take
pleasure in being with them, caring for and administering to
their wants. This is precisely the case with bees, and this
is the sole secret of success which the ignorant ‘and lazy
ascribe to good luck.

34 BEE CULTURE.

WILL BEES INJURE FRUIT ?

Bees never puncture fruit, and unless the skin has been
broken by other insects or birds, they never molest it. Any
one can easily determine whether bees injure grapes or not.
We know it is charged against them by some persons, but if
any one will take some grapes and hang them up in the apiary
where the bees have full access to them, the matter can be
easily demonstrated. This experiment has often been tried,
but we have never yet heard of a single instance where the
bees have punctured even one grape.

. HONEY BLOOM.

Nearly all the flowering trees and plants of the vegetable
kingdom yield honey and ‘pollen.

In earliest spring comes the bloom of myriads of fruit
trees, with the maples, poplar, Judas tree, dandelions, wil-
lows, &e.

In May we have the white sage, sumac, wistarias, bar-
berry, Xe.

During June, the white clover abounds; also the alsike
and melilot clovers, honey-suckle, white sage, motherwort
borage, cotton, milk- weeds, mustards, rape, St. John’s wort,
mignonette, okra, mints, tulips, elders, teasel, raspberries, ke.

July gives us the basswood, figwort, sour-wood bloom,
boneset, button-bush, catnip, ke.

While August and September presents‘is with buckwheat,
sunflowers, and myriads of golden rods and fall flowers,
generally.

Honey-dew is also a source of considerable honey i in some
sections of the eountry.

Kvery apiarist should acquaint himself with the honey-
plants of his locality, and with the time of their coming into
bloom. By so doing he may make calculations in advance,
and have the bees in condition to take advantage of the honey
harvests as they occur.

HIVES AND SURPLUS HONEY RECEPTACLES.

WHAT HIVE TO USE.

Indefatigable industry is the peculiar characteristic of the
Bees. During the height of their harvest, they often sally
forth even before the rising of the orb of day, and when the
short twilight of evening has cast its somber mantle over the
face of nature, they may sometimes be seen returning to
their homes laden with sweets, which, but for their industry,
would be forever lost. Neither the scorching rays of the
sun, nor wind, nor storm, will stop them ; they avail them-
selves of every moment that can be employed to advantage,
when the fields are decked with flowers containing the
precious nectar |

The Creator gave to the Bees no written law, but to guide
their labors, He imparted to them instinct to a surprising
degree. When the faded bloom and darkened horizon indi-
cate the approach of winter, they look to their hoarded stores
for sustenance till the early flowers of spring put in an
appearance. |

As they provide abundantly, their keeper may reasonably
call for the surplus, after supplying their own necessities.—
For this he should supply them with a neat and comfortable
home, having all the conveniences for storing the precious
nectar in convenient and attractive shape. It is, therefore,
a matter of some moment to decide what style of hive will
best accommodate them as well as their master. |

A good hive will give the apiarist complete control of the
frames of comb, and afford no harbor for moths. It must
give sufficient room for the breeding apartment as well as for
surplus honey, and must admit of close scrutiny and easy
manipulation. Almost the universal opinion is that the one
best adapted to all this is

Me

36 BEE CULTURE.

THE LANGSTROTH HIVE.

Though movable-frame hives were in use in Europe, in
rude form, as early as 1795, they were not at all practical
until the illustrious German, Dzierzon, invented a hive, in
1848, and our own distinguished and honored Langstroth, in
1852, presented the world with one that has, with his
system of management, completely revolutionized bee-keeping
everywhere, making it a practical science.

The patent which was issued to the Rev. L. L. Langstroth
in 1852 expired in 1873, and there is now no patent either on
his hive or frame.

With the movable-frame hive, all the combs can be taken
out and replaced, or exchanged with other hives at will,
without the least detriment to the bees. The combs having
a surplus of honey can be emptied with the Extractor, with-

Fria. 12.—Old-style Langstroth Hive.

out injury, and returned to the hive to be refilled,—thus
saving labor for the bees in making new combs, and honey
for their keeper.

The Queen can be found, examined, and, when necessary,
can be replaced by one more prolific, or one in some other
way more desirable ; and artificial colonies can be made at
will, as we shall see hereafter. If a colony be weak, it can
be strengthened by giving it a frame or two of brood from
some other hive. In fact, the movable frame makes the
bee-keeper “‘ the master of the situation.”

Hives without movable frames, in some form, are far
behind the times, and no scientific bee-keeper would fora -

QQ SSS=SS=

BEE CULTURE. 37

moment consent to use them. Drawers, moth traps, nails or
blocks to keep frames apart, stops to keep them from slipping,
&c., are generally useless. Nearly everything about a hive
that is valuable is now public property. Proper manage-
- ment of the bees, however, has much more to do with good
results than any-form of hive or size cf frame.

The Langstroth frame is now very generally used all over
the United States, and we must say we much prefer it, and
believe it will ere long supplant all others. The beginner,
therefore, can do no better than to adoptit. The old-style
Langstroth hive, (Fig. 12,) is now in general use, but from
the advantages presented in the new Langstroth Hive with
manipulating side, (Fig. 13,) we think it will soon become a
universal favorite with those who desire to manipulate their
bees with comfort and facility, and secure their honey in the
most approved manner. :

Z

Fig. 13.—The New Langstroth Hive.

This improvement on the old Langstroth Hive is exceed-
ingly valuable, as it allows the closest watching of a colony
with the greatest ease and comfort. By turning the thumb-
screw (L) and opening the movable side (which takes but an
instant) the frames can be examined, and by removing the
loose side-board (M), the bottom-board may be cleansed—
giving all the advantages of a loose bottom-board, without its
disadvantages. | |

This Hive is a combination of the Langstroth Hive and
North Star Hive—as patented June 5, 1877, by Sperry &

38 BEE CULTURE.

. Chandler, New- London, Minn.—and, no doubt, will receive
universal approbation as soon as its advantages are known.
The New Langstroth Hive is peculiarly adapted for the ©
production of comb honey—its Honey Rack (Fig. 14) is the
best in use, and perfectly adapted to the use of the Prize
Boxes. It’ holds 18 Prize Boxes, with the separators
between them, marked B B in the cut. The wedge (A)
holds all with a vise-like grasp. The outer boxes are glassed
(C C C) as they stand on the hive. By removing the wedge
(A) any box may be instantly removed, examined, returned,

Fie. 14.—Comb- Honey Rack.

or replaced by an empty one—the spaces between the rows
readily admitting the fingers for that purpose. ~ ;

THE PRODUCTION OF CHOICE HONEY.
In no country on the face of the canbe honey produced,
either in ancient or modern times, that can excel or even

equal that produced in America. Nature has supplied this

vast Continent with honey-sources as varied and plenteous as

can be found anywhere in the world. And within the past

few years, many improved methods and appliances have been

invented for the increased production of honey, as well as to

multiply the volume and vastly enrich the quality of this

product. Simultaneously with these improvements, we find ’
the consequent increased consumption. Heretofore it was a

luxury enjoyed only by a few—but it will, ere long, again

take its place among the staple articles in general use. Im-

provements in the management and culture, as well as

increased production, has brought the price down to that

which can be afforded by every family.

BEE CULTURE. 39

HOW TO PROCURE TILE BEST COMB HONEY.

Not only should we forsake the log-gums and rude straw
and box hives of our fathers, and give these busy little
workers a neater home with movable frames.to contain their
combs, but we should teach thein to store their surplus honey
in small sectional frames and boxes (Figs. 15, 16, 17,) so that
it can be easily taken from the hives when full, and marketed
in convenient shape, suited to the requirements of retail -
purchasers.

Fie. 15.—The Prize Honey Box.

This box (Fig. 15) is 54x64 inches outside—the sides are
+ of ae inch thick and 2 inches wide, while the top and bottom
are + of an inch thick; and 12 anthed wide, the whole weigh-
ing but 2 ounces. It is the favorite box for marketing comb
honey, and is made so that it can be glassed or not, as may
be demanded by the market. Honey in this box was awarded
the Thurber Gold Medal, in New York, October, 1877, by the
National Bee-Keepers’ Convention, then in session at Cooper’ s
Institute ; and honey in this box everywhere commands the
highest market prices.
_ The top and bottom being narrower allows room for the

glass, and when put on the hive, the space being then doubled
by two boxes coming together, leaves ample means es ingress
and egress for the bees.

Fie. 16.—Prize Honey Boz, not glassed.

The dove-tailed section (Fig. 16) is made of the same -
thickness at both ie and Biss nee about i aS

40 : BEE CULTURE.

of aninch, and being dove-tailed, can be put together without
nailing. The objection to them, is that they are much -
weaker than those nailed ; and if it becomes necessary to
nail them, there is no economy in their use. They are
intended to be used without glass.

Fig. 17. Moore’s Honey Box.

This is suited to the same or any other box that it is
desired to glass—the two glasses being placed loosely on
either side of the box, and then a neat cap, (Fig. 17) being
previously glued, is placed 0 e top and bottom of the
section, holding the glass in position, as well as being an
excellent protection from leakage when packed together.

Mid |

Fia. 18.—Case a Prize Boxes for ee Hive.

This case (Fig. 18) is made of 4 inch lumber, 2 inches
wide, and holds three Prize Boxes. Such an arrangement
must have a seven-inch story made for it, which may be
lifted on and off the hive in one piece. It holds 21 Prize
Boxes, and is used with success by many. Fig. 18 shows

BEE CULTURE. 41

the tin separators on the back, one of which is attached to
every case. This story and cases being a part of the hive—
only the boxes are sold with the honey.

Fie. 19.—Case of Hight Small Sections.

This arrangement shows a Case made similar to the above,
but of the ordinary size of a Langstroth frame, and holds eight
small sections (Fig. 19) with tin separators between them.
Such sections are too small to be practical.

These are used, one on each side of the brood chamber, to
induce the bees to start surplus storing early. When com-
menced, if one has a second story of the same size as the
breeding apartment, these may be placed in the centre of it
to induce the bees to go up there and work.

Thi.
Hi

HI i
Ki | Hl Hh
y hl
Mi z
, | |
= ss IIE —_ ——————————S—SSH_SsSVE
oS SSS

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NU s

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Fie. 20.—Shipping Crate to contain 12 Prize Boxes.

The favorite shipping crate is that shown in Fig. 20 ; and
honey packed in it is a staple article in cities, especially i in
the Hast. It holds one dozen of the before mentioned Prize
Boxes or two-pound Sections, (Figs. 15, 16, 17,) and isa
very convenient and attractive way of putting comb honey
upon the market. Hither the “crate ” or the “ boxes” may
be glassed, to protect the honey from the dust of a retail
store, and preserve it in its original condition for the con-
sumer’s use.

Prize Boxes with a tight top-bar (2 inches wide) are used
in the Comb-honey Rack, (Fig. 14) ; those used in Cases

!

42 BEE CULTURE.

(Fig. 18) have the top and bottom bars only 12 inches wide—
the Case being 2 inches in width, prevents any bees from.
going above it.

To glass the boxes, two tin points Gig. ai). should be in:
serted in the top bar of the section, 4 of an inch from the
edge, and the same in the bottom oe Between these the

Fie. 21.—Tin Points-for Glassing Bowes.
glass may be inserted, bending down the tin points closely to
it ; the Be boing full 2 inches in width, while the top and
bottom are 4 of an inch: less on either side—the glass will
just make all even, nice and attractive. .

The glass may be taken off, at pleasure, by simply straight-
ening up the tin points. ~ Some persons paste paper over the
joints, to keep the package air-tight. However desirable the
latter may be, the paper is a positive detriment, for it soon
becomes covered. with fly-specks and dirt, rendering it
unattractive to the purchaser.

The above directions are for those used in Cases. (Fig.
18). Those with the tight top-bar, used in the Comb-honey
Rack, (Fig. 14) have to be fastened with the tin points at the
bottom, as before described, an e top by having a tin
point inserted outside of the glass. | Z

iP =a

il ‘ i

i we ah a i:
Mi iN | = ces

M's

Fie. 22.—Comb- Shiey’ Carrier.

This is a very desirable thing for carrying ‘comb-honey
(Fig. 22) from the producer to a regular purchaser, and as

BEE CULTURE. 43

they can be returned to the producer free of charge, a few of
them will answer every purpose—affording a perfectly safe
and cheap way of transporting comb-honey in freight cars.—
The difference in expense between “express”’ and “ freight ”’
would soon pay the cost of such carriers, even on a very
small crop of honey. |

MAKING HIVES AND SURPLUS BOXES.

To save trouble and annoyance in making hives, boxes, &c., it
is best to get them cut, and ready tonail together. Should

——— TD
Sarit

tw =<
‘€.
=

maa ’
= 4 Se P
ar ay

7 Send *
Keni
NSA

Fig. 23.—Foot-Power Saw.

you intend to make them at home, a foot-power saw (Fig. 23)
will be very essential in order to saw the material for hives,
frames and boxes, so as to exactly fit.

44 BEE CULTURE.

The rapidity and accuracy with which these can be eut
out with such a saw is perfectly astonishing, if one has the
proper guages and appliances to do it.

Fig. 23 shows the combined circular and scroll saw ; its
price being $40 ; but either the scroll or circular saw alone
may be obtained at $35. These prices include one “rip”
and one “ cross-cut’ saw, 6 inches in diameter ; or 12 scroll
saws of assorted sizes—a!l being supplied, however, with the
combined machine. ‘The circular saws reach 2 inches above
the table. They can be “set wabbling”’ on the mandrel, to
cut any desired width of groove. Any person who has one
of these saws could not be induced to dispose of it. The
table is 28x28 inches, and stands 35 inches from the floor.—
The circular saw will cut inch pine-boards at the rate of 8
feet a minute, line measure, and will cut either thinner or
thicker lumber. We have two of these in use in our manu-
factory, and have sold several, every one of them giving
entire satisfaction.

The Hand Circular Rip Saw (Fig. 24) is of untold value for
making hives, and “ripping”’ out stuff for honey boxes, sec-
tions, &c. Its peculiar feature is that the saw, mandrel and
balance wheel, slide together on planed ways, similar to a
lathe. The saw is easily set to rip any width desired, and
for those making their own hives, honey-boxes, &Xc., it is
indispensable. It occupies but little-space, and is made of
cast steel and iron—only one piéce being of wood.

The price is only $50, and no one who has used one would
consent to do without it for many times that sum.

The lumber is placed between two feed rollers, ‘B. B.,”
which feed it to the saw. The feed can be made slow or fast
as the operator may desire, by the cone pulleys on feed rolls
ce Oh Ort

These rollers are self-adjusting to thick, thin, or uneven
lumber. The saw can be instantly set to cut any width
desired from a board or plank. The machine will feed to the
saw, stuff from 4 inch to 3% inches in thickness, and 4 inch
to 192 inches wide. With it, one man can do the work of
three using the old hand-saw. Unskilled operators can do
the work rapidly and truly. Unlike the hand saw, the work
is square and true as that done by steam or water-power

BEE CULTURE. 45,

saws, and as easily dressed with the plane. An operator with
ordinary strength and endurance can easily rip, line measure,
600 feet of 1 inch pine, per hour, or 6,000 feet in 10 hours.

By changing the feed to correspond with the thickness or
hardness of the lumber, hickory, maple, ash, walnut and
cherry can be sawed with ease, the speed cut (line measure)

Fie. 24.—Hand Rip-Saw.

varying from 150 to 600 feet per hour. These are not rates
‘given that a man can only follow fora few minutes, but
actual work, that can be followed up from day to day.

HOW SHALL HONEY BE PLACED UPON THE MARKET?

_ The marketing of honey is a subject that interests every
apiarist. In order that honey may be sold readily, it MUST BE.
ATTRACTIVE! Has it never occurred to the reader to
inquire why bolts of muslin are labeled with pictures of
luscious fruit ? Or why boxes of fancy toilet articles are
adorned with lithographs of enchanting faces with bewitching

46 BEE CULTURE.

smiles? Answers to such questions offer us instructive
lessons that will pay for the learning! Manufacturers know
full well that in order to have their goods sell readily they
must be attractive! No matter how “good the quality, nor
how cheap the price—they must att act and please the eye!

To-day, comb-honey is the preference for table use, and if
we would cater to the public want, we must produce that
article in the most attractive shape. This must necessarily
be arrived at by growth! We could not jump at once to
“the most desirable shape,’—but by steady, forward steps,
we hope to approximate perfection !

The larger boxes of yore with many combs are rapidly
going out of demand, and now it is difficult to dispose of
those having more than two combs, at any price. But
invention comes to the rescue, putting upon the market
single-comb boxes or sections, (Figs. 15, 16, 17) of suitable
size and shape to pack in a neat and cheaply
crate, (Fig. 20) containing a dozen combs.

In these boxes G. M. Doolittle sold 10 tons of comb tenes
to Thurber & Co., and was awarded the $50 Gold Medal
for ‘the best honey in-the most marketable shape,” at the
meeting of the National Convention, in October, 1877. This
fact suggested for it the name of the “ Prize Box.”

No product of field or farm varies so much in price as
honey ; and why? Because the engi he manner in
which some put it upon the market Causes it to be classed as
a second or third rate article.

In Thurber & Co.’s price list for Dew 1877, om honey, of
the best grade, is quoted at 25 cents per pound, in the Prize
Box and Crate, while the same honey in three-comb boxes is
quoted a 21 cents. These are facts that need no argument. ~

Tons of honey, in these Boxes, have already been exported
to Europe, and we have no doubt but that the demand will
increase a hundred-fold! It only requires to be attractively
put up, to find ready sale at remunerative prices. If we can
meet the requirements of consumers, there will be a demand
for all the honey that can be produced on this continent.

As the articles for sauce decrease in the fall, the thrifty
house-keeper looks around for something to take its place
besides canned fruit. Honey is just the thing she desires ;

_BEE CULTURE. 47

and it only remains for us to convince the millions of house-
keepers of that fact, for the demand to increase and grow to
astonishing proportions—if, indeed, the supply be kept up,
in good and attractive shape.

One great question, towering far above all others in import-
ance, is: ‘* How to dispose of honey to the best advantage.”
In vain do we talk of the best hives ; the best implements for
every department of the apiary. —In vain do we toil and labor
from morn till eventide, manipulating our pets and their sur-
roundings.—In vain do we tell of the large amount of honey
stored away in our honey houses.— Vain is all this, if we ©
cannot dispose of it to advantage and thus reap the
reward of our well doing !

ASSORT AND GRADE THE HONEY.

All honey should be graded, and a scale of prices be estab-
lished. Now, one compelled by his needs may sell honey at
the very commencement of the season for any price that may
be offered, and thus unintentionally break down the market,
by giving a start at too lowa rate. In this way, individual
action is seriously damaging to the many, and works in a
detrimental way to add honey producers. Organization could
and should help this state of affairs. Some State Conventions
have appointed committees to grade and then dispose of the
honey of its members. If this were done in every State or
district, we should hear no more of the markets being broken
down by premature and forced sales.

HOW TO GET BEES OUT OF HONEY BOXES.

Place the boxes bottom upwards on the cap of the hive
from which the boxes were taken, placing an empty box on
the top of each one. The bees will go up into the empty box
and cluster. They may then be shaken down in front of the
hives they belong to.

MANAGEMENT OF COMB HONEY.

“Comb honey in boxes,” says that excellent apiarist, G. M.
Doolittle, “should be taken from the hive as soon as it is |
finished, or as soon thereafter as possible. No apiarist can
expect to have his honey sell for the highest market price if

48 BEE CULTURE.

he allows it to stay in the hives for weeks after it has been
sealed over, allowing the bees to give the combs a dirty, yel-
low color, by constantly traveling over it. All box-honey
producers know that there always will be cells next to the
box that are partly filled with honey, but not sealed over, and
when taken from the hive, if the box is turned over sidewise,
the honey being thin, will run out, making sticky work. The
remedy for this is a small, warm room. Bees evaporate their
honey by heat, and therefore, if we expect to keep our honey
in good condition for market, we must keep it as the bees do,
in such a position that it will grow thicker, instead of thinner
all the while. Our honey room is situated on the south side
of our shop, and is about 7 ft. square, by 9 ft. high. We have
a large window in it, and the whole south side is painted a
dark color, to draw the heat. In it the mercury stands from
80° to 90°, while our honey is in it; and when we crate it for
market, we can tip our boxes as much as we please, and no
honey will drip, neither will any of the combs have a watery
appearance—all will be bright, dry and clean.

“But if we keep honey thus warm, the moth will make its
appearance, and make it unfit for market, by gnawing off the
sealing from our beautiful combs, and also by their sickening
appearance in the boxes. We will give the way we manage.
We build a platform on either side of our honey room, of
scantling, about 16 inches high, anon this we place the .
boxes, so that the fumes from burning sulphur can enter each
box, (the prize boxes pile admirably for this purpose); in
about two weeks we fumigate, by burning # of a pound of sul-
phur for every 200 cubic feet in the room. We take coals
from the stove and put them in an old kettle, so as not to get
anything on fire ; pour on the sulphur and push it under the
pile of honey, and shut up the room. Watch through the
window, and in 15 minutes after the last fly or bee that
chances to be in the room has died, open the door and let out
the smoke, for if it stands too long, the smoke may settle on |
the combs and give them a greenish hue. As there may be
a few eggs that have not yet hatched, we fumigate again in
about 10 days, after which the honey will be free from moths,
if you do not let millers into the room.”

THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE.

THE INVENTION OF THE EXTRACTOR.

Following closely after the increased knowledge concern-
ing the natural history of the Honey Bee came improvements
in bee hives and modern appliances for obtaining the
increased production of honey.

Major Von Hruschka, a retired Austrian officer, who was
then keeping bees in Italy, invented the Honey Extractor ;
and its great value is everywhere admitted by all progressive
bee-keepers. The original and complicated machine has
been greatly improved in this country—the latest and best
machine is illustrated by Fig? 25.

Extracted honey is obtained by the frames being uncapped
and placed in the basket or frame-holder of a Honey Extractor,
(Fig. 27), which being attached to a single rod in a large can
and revolved—the centrifugal force throws out the pure
honey from the combs, which runs down the sides of the can
and is drawn off and placed in jars or some other desirable
receptacle. Extracted honey is the pure liquid—minus the
comb.

Many Extractors have been invented, but the latest and best
is ‘ The Excelsior,” (Fig. 25), and it costs but $12. The
essential points to be obtained, being: one that can be easily
taken to pieces and cleaned—one that the shaft holding the
revolving basket in position, does not revolve in the honey—
one that has a strainer (Fig. 26) covering the entrance to the
honey gate—one that has sufficient room below the comb
basket to allow the honey to remain and ripen before drawing
off, leaving it clean and free from sediment, and fit for bot-
tling—one that has an over-motion and strong gearing so
essential to ease of operation and effective work—one that
has covers to protect the honey from insects—and one that

50 BEE CULTURE.

may be easily handled. Such are all combined in “The
Excelsior.”

Honey must be “uncapped” before extracting, therefore,
a good honey knife is'a necessity. Such is the Scofield,
honey knife (Fig. 28). It is made of the best steel, and is
strong at the bend near the handle, and wide enough to

allow the cappings to remain on the knife while running
across the comb. | )

WHEN TO USE THE HONEY EXTRACTOR.

- Honey can be extracted, if carefully done, without the
least injury to the bees or the comb; the latter may be

Fie. 25.—Excelsior Honey Extractor.

replaced into the hive, and such have often been refilled by the
bees within 3 or 4 days.

When the breeding apartment becomes so full of honey
that the queen has no room to lay, to extract it is a necessity.
By the Extractor, too, all the honey may be taken from
partly-filled boxes—a small comb-holder being furnished
with each extractor for that purpose, as well as extracting
from pieces when transferring. By its judicious use, many

BEE CULTURE. D1
pounds of honey can be obtained that would not be deposited
in boxes by the bees.

Empty combs in the spring are invaluable, and in the fall
there are usually many surplus brood combs. By extracting
the honey from these and carefully putting them away, you
not only have the honey for use or sale, but also the much-
desired combs in the spring.

Inexperienced bee-keepers are sometimes tempted to
extract too closely, and thus ruin the colony. The Extractor
should only be used when there is a rapid storing of honey,

Fig. 26.—Strainer to cover Entrance to Honey Gate.

and the outside frames of comb are nearly capped over.—
Capped: brood will not be injured, but there is danger in using
the extractor when the brood is uncapped.

To prevent swarming, the honey extractor is successfully
used by some. Its frequent use will usually control it.—

Fie. 27. —Comb Basket of an Extractor.

Many swarms and large yields of honey will not be shined
during the same season. The one will be at the expense of
the other.

Honey extracted: before it is capped is liable to become
sour. It needs ‘ripening ;’—if it be “well cured,” and
placed in a tight vessel, it will keep well.

52 BEE CULTURE.
HOW TO EXTRACT.

With a good “smoker,” blow some smoke in at the
entrance of the hive ; after awhile, open it and take out the
frames of honey you wish to extract from. Shake the bees
from each frame by one or two sudden jars, brushing the
remaining ones off, right over the frames into the hive, or ~
down in front of the entrance, with a large feather or small
turkey-wing.

Place empty combs or a frame furnished with comb foun-
dation in place of those taken from the first hive. A box, or
cearry-all, with legs and folding covers, capable of holding
about 10 frames, and having long projecting handles is very
convenient to carry the frames to the operating room. After
carefully removing the ‘‘ cappings”’ with a long, sharp knife
(Fig. 28), from one comb, place it into the comb basket of
the extractor, with the ‘uncapped side outwards; select
another of about the same weight, and repeat the operation.
A few turns of the crank throws out the honey. Then
remove these frames, uncap the other side, and after extract-

Fig. 28.—Scofield Hone: Knife.

+
ing the honey from them all as before escribed, placing them
back into the carry-all, take them/ to the next hive to be
extracted ; perform the same operation, using the frames just
“ extracted ” from, to fill the places of those taken from the
hive, and repeat the operation till auu the hives are treated
in the same manner that has a surplus of honey.

By this plan, much work is saved, each colony is handled
but once, the bees are less disturbed and will resume work
much sooner. If desired, the frames from the last hive may
be given to the first, after being emptied of the honey, instead
of empty frames—if no extra combs are at hand for that
purpose.

This is an additional reason why only ONE style of hive
should be used in an apiary—so that the frames may ALL be
interchangeable. In “dividing” too, it is very essential.

COMB FOUNDATION AND ITS USE.

It is estimated that the workers have to consume about 20
pounds of honey, to be able to construct 1 pound of comb.
This being true, 1 pound of comb is equal in value to 20
pounds of honey. If, therefore, honey is worth 15 cents per
pound, comb cost $3 per pound, when produced by the bees.
From this we may learn the value of comb foundation when
supplied to the bees.

The Comb Foundation (Fig. 29) consists of sheets of wax,
obtained by dipping wooden or metal plates into melted wax,
and upon being rolled threugh a machine (Fig. 30), indenta-
tions are made on both sides that form the foundation of
cells, which the bees readily accept, thin out, and work into
comb. These corrugations are made to correspond both with
the worker and drone cells—the latter being used for starters
in boxes for surplus honey. Fig. 31 shows the rhombs, pyra-

Fie. 29.—Comb Foundation.

midal bases and cross-sections of cells. Comb foundation,
when held up to the light, shows all these very plainly.

RESULTS OF EXPERIMENTS.

Asa result of several experiments, we will note the follow-
ing: A brood frame being filled with comb foundation in the
evening, was examined the next morning, and showed that in
12 hours about half of it had the cells built out sufficient for
the queen to lay in them, which she had done. In 24 hours
the comb was filled with eggs and the elongation of the cells

54 BEE CULTURE.

was rapidly going on. Within 8 days, 10 combs had been
built out, filled with worker brood, and sealed over. Only a
very few cells had been filled with honey. The beautiful and
recularly-built comb, with its thousands of little inhabitants,
was marvelous indeed! . To prevent sagging-and bulging, it

Fie. 30.—Machine for making Comb Foundation.

should not touch the bottom or sides ; it being better to leave
4 an inch of space on either side and an inch at the bottom.

NEW COMB IS DESIRABLE.

Bees bred in new comb are generally much larger than
those raised in old. The cells in the old) comb become smaller
every year, as every bee that is hatehgd in them leaves its
silky cocoon adhering to the walls of the cell, thus diminish-

.
x

Fic. 31.—Bases and Cross Sections of Cells.

ing its size, and, consequently, the size of the bee. When
drones are bred in worker-cells (not uncommon), they are
stunted in their growth.. To raise a queen the cell is enlarged,

BEE CULTURE. 5D

and the larva that would, if left in a smaller cell, have been a
worker, becomes increased in bulk, and being fed on royal
jelly, hatches out’ a queen—it is safe to say that if an en-
Jarged cell was not necessary to the enlarged size, the bees
would not so: So require the building of large queen
cells.

‘FASTENING COMB FOUNDATION.

It may be fastened by rubbing the edge HARD against, the
wood of the top-bar, with.some iron instrument, such as a
screw-driver, knife, &e.; a little honey will keep the tool from
sticking to the wax. Capt. Hetherington uses white milliner’s
glue for fastening it. KR. H. Joiner uses a cement made of
equal parts of wax and rosin. After placing the foundation

Fie. 32.—Carlin’s Foundation Cutter.

in position, top-bar downwards, the cement being melted over
a lamp, with a tin teaspoon bent to a small spout, he pours
. the cement on to the upper corner of the foundation, which
running down at the junction where foundation meets the top-
bar, sticks it so fast that it would be hard to pull it apart
again. Mr. Oatman has a new plan for using comb starters
in boxes. The operation he explained to a visitor by “ plac-
ing the honey box upside-down, then cutting the piece of
comb about an eighth of an inch longer than the depth of the
box, then running one edge of the comb through the lower
part of the blaze of alighted candle until partly melted. He
put this melted edge on the place where he wanted it to stay
on the bottom of the box (which, when righted, would be the
top), and crowded the other aca into place _Itis very pee
and easily done.” W

HOW TO CUT IT TO DESIRED SIZES. ye
Carlin’s Foundation Cutter is the neatest; cheapest, sake

best thing we know of, (Fig. 32:) It is simply. a ital 2
wheel of. tin, fastened into-a convenient handle. '* © :

56 BEE CULTURE. |

For cutting it into strips of uniform size, for starters in sec-
tions and boxes, Novice has suggested a grooved board (Fig.
33), the distance between the grooves corresponding to the
width of the strips desired to be cut. For starters in boxes

Fig. 33.—Grooved Board for cutting Starters evenly.

or sections, it is quite desirable. A strip 4 an inch wide is”
sufficient, making an excellent guide.

SHOULD FOUNDATION COMB BE THIN OR THICK?

We have just made the following experiment. We placed
a piece of thick foundation side by side with a piece of very
THIN in a brood frame in one of our colonies. Both were ac-
cepted readily, but the thick piece had the cells worked out
much deeper in the same length of time. Is it not reasonable
to conclude that as THICK foundation supplies the bees with
more MATERIAL to build the cells with it is the more desirable
for use in the breeding apartment?

COMB FOUNDATION IN SURPLUS BOXES.

As starters of 4 an inch in depth, it is desirable, as it in-
duces the bees to commence operations there much sooner
than otherwise But to put in more than that, will seriously
damage the market for comb honey. We have had some
honey in prize boxes that contains a regular “ fish-bone.”
Comb foundation was used from one-half to two-thirds of the
way down. Our customers frankly tell us they do not want
any more of it. We used some of it, and found, to our dis-
gust, that the complaint was well founded. Therefore let us
insist that comb foundation be not used for surplus honey, |
except for starters of about one-half an inch in depth.

BEE CULTURE. 57

Another lot of honey had natural-comb starters of liberal
size, and so DARK that it could be distinctly seen through the
honey. This is woRsE than the use of comb foundation, for
the flavor of the white clover honey was almost destroyed by
the old and blackened comb used for starters. If natural
comb be used in surplus boxes, it musT be new and nice,
Any other is but a damage to its sale as well as to its flavor.

ARE THE CORRUGATIONS ADVANTAGEOUS ?

The result of an experiment convinces us that they are an
advantage. We placed some plain wax sheets in a frame in
the brood-chamber by the side of a piece of comb foundation,
and the latter was accepted and built out into full cells before
the plain wax sheets were disturbed. The bees will use plain
sheets of wax, but PREFER the comb foundation.

PRESERVE THE WAX.

The use of comb foundation bids fair to use all the avail-
able wax in the country ; every bit of wax and old combs

a

ee

a

ML WOLUTN TY
fiilh aol =

“IMA
Fie. 34.—Swiss Wax Hxtractor.

should therefore be preserved. By the use of a Wax Extractor
(Fig. 34), even the oldest combs can be melted up and repro-
duced in comb foundation, and be given again to the bees.

A Wax Extractor costs, with a copper-bottomed boiler, only
$5.00, and will not only soon pay for itself, but afford infinite
delight to the apiarist. By its use all the old comb may be
saved, utilized, and restored to the bees in comb foundation to
-be worked out into beautiful comb, forming either the cradle
of bees or the receptacle of immaculately-pure honey.

58 BEE CULTURE.

FACTS WORTH REMEMBERING.

A-“chapter of well-settled facts” was written, we believe,
by Mr. M. Metcalf, an -apiarist of Michigan. From that
chapter we select and endorse the following : |
“1. All colonies of bees should be kept in strong numbers.—A
well garrisoned city may defy assault. ee

2. A. moderate increase of swarms will keep them strong, and
secure the largest yield of honey.—As the calves are raised at the
ee butter and cheese, so bees are multiplied at the expense of

oney.

3. Bees filled with honey are not inclined to sting.—As the rob-
ber’s knife is stayed by your purse, so bees are bribed with prof-
fered sweets. are !

4, In natural swarming, bees fill themselves with honey.—Emi-
pee “ : new country carry their treasures along, as capital to

egin with.

5, Bees, alarmed _with smoke or otherwise, instinctively seize
“pen their stores.—The householder, at the cry of fire, secures what

e can. | a

6. There should be no communication between occupied hives,
allowing bees of one to pass into the other.—‘* No house is large
enough for two families,’

7 A swarm of bees, destitute of a queen, fast dwindles away;
and unless supplied with one, soon perishes, either by robbers or
moths.—A country without a government, or a farm without an
owner, soon becomes ruined.

8. Colonies having combs insufficiently protected by bees, furnish
a retreat for millers and food for worms.—Unguarded treasures
invite thieves. :

9. An excess of drones. should be avoided by discouraging the
construction of the cells that produce them.—Drones are ‘‘ dead-
heads ” of the hive—the useless males in the farmer’s herds.

10: The building of drone comb may, to a\great extent, be pre-
vented by securing the construction of new/combs in hives con-
taining young queens; or by placing frames) to be filled, in other
" ves, near the centre.—** An ounce of prevention is worth a pound
of cure. . ook Jr

11. Queens are most economically reared in small colonies.—Who
would employ ten men to do what one would do better ?

12. SmalJl colonies, if united in the fall, will winter more safely,
and consume less honey.—*‘ In union these is strength.”

13. Bees of colonies containing. fertile and unfertile queens,
should not be put together without first ‘‘ breaking them up;”’ 4. e.,
inducing them to fill with honey, and destroying the unfertile
queen.

14, Natural swarming, always uncertain and perplexing, exposes
the bee-keeper to much loss of time and money; while artificial
swarming, or more properly, dividing colonies, securing at all times
the presence of a worker-laying queen, doing away with all watch-
ing and loss by flight to the woods, is both sure and economical.

HOW TO ITALIANIZE AN APIARY.

SUPERIORITY OF ITALIANS.

- In 1860 Italian bees were first introduced into this country.

The race is undoubtedly superior to the German or black
bees—though it is capable of improvement, and we think that
the American Italians, as reared in this country, with an eye
to ‘the improvement of the race,” will ere long be not only
renowned, but sought after, the world over! In Italy, “the
improvement of the race’’ is unthought of, and many of the
queens received from that country are nothing but “ scrub”
stock, or hybrids !

Briefly stated, the superiority of the Italians is demon-
strated by the following :

1. They have longer tongues and can gather honey from
flowers where black bees cannot.

2. They are more industrious and persevering, and with
the same opportunity will gather much more than black bees.

3. They work earlier and later in the day, as well as in
the season, often gathering stores when the blacks are idle.

4. They are better to guard their hives against robbers,
and all insects that are enemies to the honey bee, being almost
proof against the ravages of the bee moth’s larvee.

5. They are more “prolific, and raise thelr young more
rapidly in the spring than the black bees do, and are less liable
to breed in the winter.

6. Queens are more readily andl as they adhere more
tenaciously to the comb.

7. They are more amiable than the blacks, and it is much
easier to manipulate them.

_ For these and many other reasons we strongly recommend
Italianizing.

60 BEE CULTURE.

ITALIANIZING OF THE APIARY.

To do this, a tested Italian queen (Fig. 1) should be ob-
tained from some RELIABLE dealer or brecder, and introduced
into one of the best colonies of the apiary. or, as the queen
is the mother of the colony, to change queens is to change the
whole character of the colony in a short space of time. To
successfully

INTRODUCE A QUEEN

it will be necessary to find the queen to be superseded and
take her away. <A black queen being easily frightened, will
hide or run away to some corner, therefore it is best to pro-
ceed cautiously and without jarring.

In the middle of the day, when the old bees are at work,
open the hive, taking out the centre frame, examine both
sides, and if the queen is not there, proceed with the adjacent,
frames till she is found. If not successful the first time,

Fia. 35.— Mandible of Queen, greatly magnified.

close the hive an hour or two, till the bees become quiet, and
then repeat the operation. An Italian queen would be easily
found, but the blacks are more troublesome. When found,
either destroy her or make such other disposition of her as
may be desired ; cage the Italian queen and insert it between
two combs containing honey which the queen may be able to
reach at pleasure.

BEE CULTURE. 61

Fig. 36 gives a good illustration of a piece of furniture
that will be found very useful in an apiary. It isa stand on
which to hang the first frames removed from a hive, when an
examination of it is made. It was made by Mr. J. M. Val-
entine, who describes it so minutely that one can readily make
it. Usually the first frames are leaned against the hive,
standing upon the ground, and more or less bees are injured.
With this “Stand,” they are hung up, entirely out of danger.

2b,

%,

Ah

1 Ti Pe : Mp

fe

Fig. 36.—Valentine’s Frame Stand.

“The uprights are 1}x{, 24 inches high; a picce 1 inch
square runs across the top for a handle to lift it by and to hold
the top together. Two inches below the top-bar are hooks on
both sides, so as to hang on two frames if desirable. Four
inches below the bottom of the frames (when suspended on
the hooks) is a shelf 12 inches wide, to which the uprights
are nailed. This makes a nice place on which to lay cages,
etc. Under this shelf is a drawer 6x8, that draws out on
either side, in which I keep a dozen queen cages, a sharp-
pointed knife, and a small pair of scissors.”

In about 48 hours release the queen upon one of the combs,

62 BEE CULTURE.

and see how she is received. If she is attacked by the bees,
molesting her wings and legs, return her to the cage for
another 36 hours, after which she will, no doubt, be accepted.
Queen cells, if any have been started, should be destroyed.
Another plan, and one that is regularly practiced in our
aplary with uniform success, is to make the colony queenless
for 24 hours, and then with an Atomizer (Fig. 37) throw a
fine spray of peppermint water over both the queen and bees,
letting the queen loose upon one of the central combs, and
close up the hive, The pepermint water makes the "bees

Fig. 37.—Atomizer, for Spraying Bees.

and queen of the same scent, and, almost invariably, she is
received with favor. The spray is so FINE, that it is not the
least detriment either to the bees, comb,|brood or honey.
With a valuable queen, where it is not\ desired to take the
least risk, a new colony may be formed, \by taking hatching
brood from several hives. Being ALL young bees, the queen
will be unmolested. This may be done with perfect safety.

INSERTING A QUEEN CELL.

A ripe queen cell will almost invariably be received with
favor by a queenless colony. Of course all other queen cells
must be destroyod. 7

Fig. 38 shows a queen cell finished and sealed, containing
an embryo queen. ‘The orifice @ is capped, and the cell-walls
are thickened preparatory to being extended in the direction
of the dotted lines 6 0. :

When the embryo queen is nearly mature, within 12 to 16
hours of emerging, the bees begin to demolish the exterior
compartment (Fig. 38, 6 6), reducing it to a level with the
outer edge of the cap of the cell proper (Fig. 38, a). The con-

BEE CULTURE. 63

vex cap, being then very prominent, is liable to be injured ;
and, to protect it, the bees coat it with a fresh layer of wax,
making it nearly as thick as the cell walls. Fig. 39 shows
the cell as seen after the anterior compartment has been re-
moved, exhibiting the convex cap a.

Fig. 38.—Finished Queen Cell, sealed over.

The young queen pierces a hole through the edge of the
cover (Fig. 39, a) with her mandibles (Fig. 35), and then
makes a circular cut along its periphery. Being thus de-
tached from the cell walls, the cap drops, opening a circular
passage, through which the queen emerges.

To cut a queen cell out, commence on each side of the base
of the cell, not nearer than half an inch, and cut upwards a
wedge-shaped piece (see Fig. 11), being careful not to squeeze

Fig. 39.—A Ripe Queen Cell.

or even to handle the base of the cell. A similar wedge-
shaped piece must be cut out of the frame of comb that it is
desired to put the cell into. Then carefully place the cell
into the hole thus made, fitting it securely in position ; place
the frame into the hive and close it up.

64 BEE CULTURE.

NUCLEUS COLONIES.

Nuclei are made by taking two or more frames, as may be
desired (at least one of which should contain brood), with
adhering bees, and the frame already furnished as above de-
scribed, with a queen cell, and shaking into the hive bees
from one or more frames, so that there may be enough
young bees to remain after the old bees have returned to their
former hives, to keep the temperature sufficiently high to
hatch out the brood as well as to care for the emerging queen.
In making up nuclei colonies be sure not to take away the
queen with any of the frames, else the cell will be destroyed,
and all the labor lost.

It is better to use the regular frames for nuclei hives, and
either use the ordinary hives with a division board (Fig. 40)

Fia. 40.—Division Board

to contract the brood-chamber, and economize the heat, or
make small hives just to suit the number'of frames used for
the nuclei.

Many inquire whether there is any patent on the ordinary
division board or not. We say emphatically, Vo/ One man
has a patent on a division board fitted up with ‘ woolen,” or
‘“‘rubber strips,” at the sides, and “lugs,” or feet, at the bot-
tom. No one need fear to use the ordinary “division board.”
A board of one piece is neither patented nor patentable /

As the virgin queen emerges from the nucleus to meet the
drones, sometimes the bees will accompany her if they have
no unceiled brood. To prevent this, two or three days after
the queens are hatched, insert a frame containing eggs and
young larvee in each nucleus. If the queen should be lost

BEE CULTURE, 65

on her bridal tour, the materials will be on hand for the bees
to get another, should the fact be unnoticed by the apiarist.

When the nucleus colonies are formed, set them away in
the shade, and in two or three days the queen will be hatched,
and a week or ten days later will become fertilized, and be
laying ; this may be readily discovered upon examination.—
Now the apiarist is ready for the formation of new colonies,
without the inconvenience of natural swarming, by

DIVIDING THE COLONIES

Bees Swarm because it is their natural manner of increase.
By dividing them we secure the increase without swarming,
and save time in watching and hiving natural swarms. This,
however, must not be overdone. The beginner sometimes
imagines that by dividing he can make almost any number of
colonies from each one, forgetting that strong colonies are the
only ones that accomplish anything. Dividing should never
be done unless the colony be very populous and can well spare
the bees and comb. To more than doudle the number of
colonies each season is not good, unless increase is desired at
the expense of honey. Some divide their strong colonies
equally, or nearly so, carefully looking for the queen, putting
her into the new hive, placing bees and brood in the centre,
filling up with frames containing comb-foundation (Fig. 29)
removing the hive with the queen to a new location ; leaving
the queenless hive on the old stand, to rear for itself a queen
from the brood it contains. If thequeen bea choice one, and .
it is desired to get queens from her, this is a good plan to get
the queen cells started for the nuclei, before described.

But ordinarily we much prefer the nucleus plan of multi-
plying colonies. Take one of the nucleus hives before de-
scribed, which should be of the same pattern and size as those
to be divided, and remove the division board. Then take a
frame containing brood and adhering bees from each colony,
placing them into the nucleus until it is full. Be sure not
to take the queen away from any hive. The bees that will
hatch out in a few days will make that nucleus a populous
colony. Put a frame nearly filled with comb foundation (Fig.
29) into each hive from which the frame of brood was taken,
and in a few days they will have this all worked out into

beautiful comb, and in all probability filled with eggs.

66 BEE CULTURE.

The new colony having a young and fertile queen, and plenty .
of bees, will soon rival the old one in the vigor of its work
Hach of the nuclei can be built up in this way, giving a new
colony every few days—or, if the apiary be large, several every
_ day—and thus effectually prevent swarming. Increase being
secured in this way, none of the colonies are disturbed, and
the bees everywhere ‘‘pursue the even tenor cf their way.”
All being kept strong in numbers they are ready for the
honey harvest, and will work in boxes very willingly.

Dividing should be done in the middle of the day, when the
bees are busy in the fields and the yield of honey is abundant.

_ Another plan practiced with success, is to take away the
division board in the nucleus hive, fill the frames with comb
foundation (Fig. 29), and exchange places with a populous
colony, caging the queen of the nucleus for about 36 hours,
or until her acquaintance has been made by the strange bees
that come pouring into it from the fields—for bees will always
return to the exact spot occupied by their home.

Fig. 41.—Davis’ Queen Nursery.

To raise queens for the purpose of Italianizing an apiary,
the Queen Nursery (Fig. 41), invented by Dr. Jewell Davis,
may be used with success. Put into the cages of the nursery,
between the tins, a few cells of sealed honey, in new comb if
possible. Then cut from the combs of a pure Italian colony as
many queen cells, large and well developed, as you have pre-

BEE CULTURE. 67

pared cages with the honey, as above. Suspend one of the
cells in each of the cages. Good care should be taken to have
the best cells, and not injured by bruising, handling or jarring.
Having thus supplied each cage of the nursery with a queen-
cell and food—the food is thus supplied that the young queens
may not starve if the bees do not feed them, a thing they
often fail to do when there is a scarcity of honey in the flowers.
The nursery cages so prepared are adjusted in the nursery
frame. Then having removed a centre comb from a strong
black colony, the queen-nursery may be placed into the vacancy
made by the removal of the comb, there to remain until the
queens are hatched, which will be in 3 or 4 days, if the cells
were not cut from the combs too early, or before the 9th day.
When the queens have emerged from the cells, remove the
cage and introduce the caged queen to a black colony, libera-
ting her on the next day about sundown—if necessary, spray-

Fie. 42.—Queen-Registering Slate.

To remember dates every one has not the faculty, and yet
all the operations of queen-rearing require that it should be
done. For instance, the time when a choice colony was made
queenless, to have queen cells started—the time these cells
are given to the nuclei—the time of -hatching—when the
queens commence to lay, &c. To save time and trouble in
remembering these and other dates, a small slate (Fig. 42),
3x4 inches, with a hole in the center of the top, should be
hung on the hive by a small nail with all these dates written
thereon. A printed card tacked on to the inside of the cap
is used by some to advantage, in keeping track of such dates.

If the dividing of colonies be neglected, or if it is not
desired to practice that method of increase, the bees will
become greatly crowded for room, and will necessarily

SWARM.

For some days before swarnis issue the bees may be seen
clustering at the entrance of their hive, though some come

68. BEE CULTURE.

out where there are little or no indications of a swarm.
When honey is abundant, and bees plenty, look for them to
come forth at almost any time, from the hours of ten in the
morning to three in the afternoon (first swarms), second and
third from seven in the morning until four in the afternoon.
By examining the hive it can be ascertained whether they are
about to swarm or not. If queen cells are seen with eggs
or larvee nearly ready to be ceiled over, a swarm may be
expected within one or two days after the first cell is ceiled
over, or as soon after as the weather will permit.

‘A fees whirling a few minutes in the air, the mass of the
bees will cluster on the branch of some convenient tree or
bush—generally one that is shaded from the sun’s rays.

They should be hived as soon as the cluster is formed, else |
they may leave for the woods, or if another colony should
swarm while the first was clustered, they would probably unite.

Should the queen fail to join the bees, by reason of having
one of her wings clipped, or for any other cause, the swarm
will return to the hive, as soon as they make that discovery.
As the bees are gorged with honey, they may be handled
without fear of stings.

“After swarms” being unprofitable, all but one of the queen
cells should be destroyed, or cut out, as before described, for
nuclei—this will prevent any more swarms issuing. Within

eight days the first queen will issue, and finding that she has
no rival she will take possession, apparently having no idea
of swarming.

To ascertain that she has no rival she makes a peculiar
sound—called “piping.” If there is another queen in the
cell nearly ready to emerge, it will answer by a “ piping”
sound. If this queen still in the ccll is protected by the
bees, so that the first queen cannot find and destroy it,
she will also prepare to swarm in two or three days. After
the departure of this swarm and the emerging of the second
queen and her “ piping” is also answered by a third queen,
a third swarm may also issue.

If the desire to swarm is satisfied after the departure of
the first swarm, the queen cells will be all destroyed by the
first young qucen that emerges.

BEE CULTURE. 69

HOW TO HIVE A SWARM.

If the cluster be low, it is easily performed. The queen
is usually in the lower part of the cluster, and by finding
“her majesty,” and placing her into a hive, which should be
placed conveniently near for the purpose of hiving the swarm,
and with a dipper, or any other convenient vessel, place the
bees down in front of the hive on a sheet, or piece of paper.
They will then crawl into the hive, and, finding the queen,
be satisfied to remain. When the bees are in, place the hive
where it is to remain ; a shaded position will be the best. If
comb foundation (Fig. 29) be placed into the frames, it will
be of very great advantage in comb building.

If they have clustered on a branch or twig, a basket will
be quite essential, into which to shake or brush the bees. If .
on a wall or fence, or on the trunk of a tree, brush them into
the basket, and proceed to hive as before described.

A frame of brood and another of honey placed into the
new hive will be of much advantage to the bees. The
former will prevent the swarm from leaving the hive, and
should the queen be lost, it will give them the means of
raising another, and the latter will give them a good start.
By filling the other frames with comb foundation, (Fig. 29)
they will soon be in good condition and perfectly: at home in
their new quarters.

Sometimes a swarm will make for the woods without clus-
tering—but this is rarely the case.

The beating of tin pans, and all such old-fogy notions, is, of
course, of no avail; throwing a stream of water from a foun-
tain pump is often ‘done to bring down an absconding swarm,
and cause them to alight and cluster.

AN

THE LOSS OF THE QUEEN.

When the bees manifest a restless and uneasy disposition
by running about the front of the hive and signaling each
other, it is a sign that they have lost their queen, and they
should be examined at once.

Should a colony become queenless from any cause, three
weeks may be gained by having an extra queen to give it at
once. Upon examination, if no brood is found where the bees
are clustering, the colony is queenless. At any time during

70 BEE CULTURE.

the season, from March to October, this is a sure sign. Colo-
nies that lose their queens during the winter have a forlorn
appearance. The bees walk around the entrance listlessly
and without eagerness ; but few of them go in search of either
honey or pollen. |

No time should be lost in giving a queenless colony a comb
of eggs or young larvee, or both, from which to raise a queen.

Fie. 43.—Legs of an Italian Worker Bee.

Sometimes such a colony will refuse to raise queen cells: it
may be too weak ; its queen may be too old to lay, or they
may have a fertile worker. If it be too weak, it should be
united with another colony. If its queen be old, she should
be removed and the bees given a frame of brood from a pros-.
perous colony. If it has a fertile worker the most effective
way to get rid of it is to break up the colony, dividing it
among strong colonies having fertile queens.

BEE CULTURE. G1

Fig. 43 shows the legs of a worker bee. The two at the
left showing the outside ; while the two at the right exhibit
the appearance of the inside of the legs, 7. ¢., that part
nearest the body. Those at the top of the engraving are the
anterior, and the lower ones are the posterior legs; the latter
showing the “ pollen baskets” at A, A.

WHAT ARE FERTILE WORKERS ?

Worker bees being undeveloped females, it is not strange
that now and then one may be sufficiently developed to lay
eggs, Some account for this by the possibility that the larva

may have been adjacent to the queen cell and received some
of the royal pabulum, given so plentifully to the queen.

Prof. Leuckart remarks that “it results entirely from the
development of egg-germs and eggs in the individual ovarian
tubes—which proceeds precisely in the manner described in
the case of the queen.” As they are incapable of meeting
the drones and becoming fully fertilized, their eggs will only
produce drones. Fig. 44 presents a view of the genitalia of
such a bee. It differs from the queen merely in the more
advanced development of the ovaries. (Fig. 43, A A). Fer-
tile workers deposit the eggs in a very irregular manner,
caused by the tubes being very imperfectly furnished with
eges, ne

qaicngs oft 626 t BEE CULTURE:

TRANSFERRING BEES.

June is the month of swarming in the Northern States,
while in the Middle and Southern States the early and
abundant bloom signal its advent. The best time to transfer
bees from the common to movable-frame hives is about the
season of swarming, though it may be done on any warm
afternoon, when the bees are actively at work.

A transferring board (Fig. 47), about the size of the frame,
should be prepared in advance, by making grooves of about
one-half an inch wide and one-fourth of an inch deep, and
about 2 inches apart. The spaces between these grooves
should be cushioned with several thicknesses of cloth, to
prevent the brood from being injured when the comb is laid
upon it.

Transferring sticks (Fig. 46) should be prepared from some
light, tough wood, about one-half inch longer than the frames

Fie. 45.—Frame of Transfer ed. Comb.

are deep, and about one-fourth of an inch square. Fasten
two of these sticks together with a piece of fine annealed wire,
so as to leave about one inch of space between them, (Fig.
46) ; attach a piece of wire to the. other end of one of the
sticks, (Fig. 46, 6.) to be used in fastening when placed
around the frame of comb. (Fig. 45.) A small notch
should be cut to admit the wire, and prevent slipping.—
These sticks should be made in pairs, and be kept ready for
use. | | :
| TRANSFERRING FROM A BOX-HIVE.

After smoking the bees at the entrance of a box-hive,
remove it some distance from the old stand, leaving an
empty hive or box in its place, to receive the bees that

BEE CULTURE. oe te

return from the fields ; invert the hive, place an empty box
or hive over it, of the same size and shape, wrapping a sheet
or cloth around where they come together, leaving no cracks
large enough for a bee to escape. By gently tapping the
hive for some time, most of the bees, with the queen, will
enter the upper box. When they have nearly all left the
hive, place the upper box with the bees on the old stand.—
Being alarmed and filled with honey, they may be handled
without fear.

The old hive may now be removed to a convenient room or
building, and taken to pieces, by cutting off the nails with a
cold chisel and prying off the ends, cutting the combs when
taken out as near as possible to the'size of the frames to be
used, The transferring board (Fig. 47) should be placed
upon a table or box, to be in a convenient position for
working over it. Eeuirs :

The pieces of combs containing honey may be placed at
one side till some with brood are found ; this should be put
upon the transferring board (Fig. 47), so that when the frame |

eg
Fig. 46.— Wired Sticks for Transferring.

is placed in position over it, the brood may be nearly in the
same position as it occupied in the old hive and near the top
of the frame, as that will be the warmest position in the
hive. With a honey knife (Fig. 28) cut these combs to
make them fit. If more are wanted to fill the frame, use the
combs of honey first removed from the hive. Then push the
ends of the sticks, (Fig. 46, },) that have no wire.attached,
through the grooves, from the bottom of the frames, where
the combs may need support; the other sticks attached, place
on the top of the comb, and fasten the ends together at the top
of the frame, as seen in Fig. 45, to match the fastenings
below. Place this frame in the hive, and proceed in
the same manner with the next brood comb, and let it occupy
the adjoining position in the hive, giving the frames contain-
ing honey the outside position on either side. The honey
from pieces of comb not used, and especially from all drone
comb, should be removed with the Extractor (Fig. 25).

T4 BEE CULTURE.

Carry the new hive to the old stand, and empty the bees
out of the box on a sheet, in front of the hive. See that the
queen, as well as all the bees, enter it. To prevent robbing,
the entrance should be contracted ; and in two or three days,
when the bees have fastened the combs, the transferring
sticks should be removed. Always work slowly with the
bees, and avoid jarring.

TRANSFERRING FROM A MOVABLE-FRAME HIVE.

When it is desired simply to transfer from one style of
frame to another, smoke the bees well, and after finding the
queen and putting her in a tumbler or some secure place,
take a frame, and shake or brush the bees off into the new
hive ; place the frame upon the transferring board (Fig. 47)
and cut out the comb; place the new frame over it and cut

to suit that frame, in the best way possible. Then fasten as
before described with wired sticks, (Fig. 46); after thus
transferring all the combs, proceed to hive the bees as above
directed, letting the queen loose upon one of the brood combs
as soon as they are transferred.

UNITING WEAK COLONIES.

Weak colonies may be united after smoking them well, by
removing the combs with adhering bees and placing them
together in one hive, spraying them with peppermint water
by an atomizer (lig. 38), to give them all the same scent.
Give them ventilation and close the entrance’ till sunset,
placing them where the stronger of the two colonies diaod
Swarms issuing the same day can be united peaceably.

MANAGING AND QUIETING BEES,

ROBBER BEES.

If all the colonies are kept strong there is no danger of
robbing. It is only the weak ones that are robbed. Working
with bees at unseasonable times, leaving honey exposed in
the apiary, &c., induces robbing. Black colonies and nuclei
are usually the sufferers. Contracting the entrance, so that
but a single bee can pass, is usually a cure for robbing. In
times of scarcity of honey, the apiarist should be careful not
to keep a hive open long, or robbing may be the result. All
strong colonies maintain sentinels at the entrance in times of
searcity. Those of that colony are allowed to pass, but
strangers are ‘arrested on the spot.” If a colony is unable
to defend itself, close up the entrance with wire cloth and
remove it to the cellar, or some other convenient place, for a
few days, and when it is returned to the old stand, contract
the entrance to allow only one bee to pass at a time. This
can be done with ease in the new Langstroth hive (Fig. 13).

FEEDING BEES.

Feeding early in the spring is advisable to stimulate breed-
ing, and keep the colony strong, so that when the early bloom
comes it may be strong enough to gather the delicious nectar.
Whenever there is any necessity for it, feeding pays;
especially in the fall, before preparing for winter, if their
stores are insufficient, feed them ; each colony should have at
least 30 pounds of good capped honey.

Extracted honey, or coffee A sugar, reduced to the consis-
tency of honey, is best for feeding, in the absence of good
sealed honey. The poorer grades of sugar and glucose are
totally unfit for feeding bees. To stimulate in the spring
one-half of a pound per day is all-sufficient for a colony.

76 BEE CULTURE.

For feeding inside the hive, the Dunham feeder is good.
It is made of tin, and is of the size of a frame, with perforated
bottom, atmospheric pressure controlling the flow of food.

The Van Deusen feeder is also good (Figs. 48 and 49). It
consists of a tin can with a perforated cover. An air-tight

Fies. 48 and 49.—Van Deusen Bee Feeders.

ber. The food is poured into the tin can (Fig. 48), and is
inverted and placed over a hole in the top of the hive or
directly over the frames, bringing the perforated surface close
to the bees (Fig. 49); they can easily remove the food with-
out leaving the cluster. It does not ventilate the hive; it

can be used at any season, and is adapted to any hive.

Fie. 50.—Shuck’s Bee Feeder.

Shuck’s Bee Feeder feeds at the front entrance, any time
in the day, without danger from robbers, as the food can be
reached only from the inside of the hive ; it is placed on the
alighting board, with the side (D) nearly covering the entrance.
In the engraving, the top is cut away to show the wood divisions
(A A) in the feed-cup ; the food is poured into it without re-
moving, through the hole (c), which is covered with wire-
cloth. When done the cap (B) is closed overit, making all tight.

BEE CULTURE. VW

t

QUIETING AND HANDLING BEES.

Smoke is harmless and is the best thing to alarm and quiet
bees. With a good smoker (Fig. 51), blow a little smoke in
at the entrance before opening the hive. (Give them a little
more as you uncover the frames; if very cross repeat the
dose, until they yield obedience ; then they may be handled
with safety. Handle them gently and without fear, avoiding
all quick motions; such usually incite them to anger. When
honey is being stored rapidly Italians may be handled with-
out smoke ; when there is a scarcity it is not safe to do so.

Neale
Fie. 51.—Bingham Smoker. . Fig. 52.—Bee Veil.

To those who are commencing, and until familiarity causes
the loss of fear, a pair of good gauntlet gloves and a veil are
necessary, but after that fear has been overcome, a good veil
will be sufficient. Such may be placed over a hat, the bottom
of it coming down under the coat or vest, and when thus ad-
justed it is a complete protection for the neck and face (Fig.
52). It being made of white netting, it does not stain the
clothing, and as the piece over the face is black, it can be
seen through, nearly as well as if not worn. A good one
costs 75 cents, and is a yard long; common black ones, so
short as to be undesirable, can be obtained at a less price,
but are much dearer in the end.

78 BEE CULTURE.

A pair of gauntlet rubber gloves is best for those who need
such protection, while unaccustomed to manipulating bees.
The advanced apiarist prefers to have the free use of his
hands at all times. Leather gloves are used by some; such
can be obtained for one-half the price of rubber, but they are
NoT one-half as good. A friend very pertinently remarks
that “‘bees when gorged with honey are very peaceable ; when
often handled they become accustomed to the practice, and
when this is gently done, they will scarcely notice the dis-
turbance. By a careful study of their habits and instinct,
the practical apiarist may handle his bees with no more fear
than the farmer has from the heels of his favorite horse or
the milkmaid from her gentle cow.”

On being stung, if the poison-bag has not been emptied,
remove it with a sharp knife, or better still, with a pair of
tweezers so formed as to grasp the sting itself, without press-

Fie. 54.—Scovell’s Queen Cage.

ing on the bag. Common hair tweezers are just the thing.
This must, however, be done very quickly, or it will be of no
use. Grasping the bag and sting with the fingers only
squeezes the poison out of the bag and into the wound.
After the bag has been removed, suck the wound strongly,
and apply a poultice of moist mud.

SHIPPING QUEENS AND COLONIES.

Before colonies are shipped the frames should be secured so
that they cannot move. Old combs should be selected for ship-
ping; and wire cloth nailed over the entrance serves for ven-
tilation as well as to keep the bees in the hive. Of course a
strip of wood should be nailed each side, from the cap to the
bottom board, to keep the whole safely together.

BEE CULTURE. 79

To ship queens the Scovell Queen Cage (Fig. 54), or the
Novice Cage (Fig. 55), should be used. Inclose a few workers
with ‘Her Majesty” as “‘compagnons de voyage.” These
cages are already provisioned for the journey.

BEE DISEASES.

Dysentery in the latter part of winter and early spring is a
malady that affects some apiaries. The bees discharge their
excrements over the hives and combs, producing a dark ap-
pearance and offensive odor. The cause is either fermented
honey, improper food, or too warm and poorly ventilated |
quarters. Give them good capped honey and a cleansing

Fig. 55.—Simplicity Queen Cage.

flight. If too cold for this, out of doors, take the hive to a
warm room, make a box, front and top of wire cloth or mus-
quito netting, adjust it to the entrance, so the bees must
enter it on leaving the hive. This will usually prove an
effectual remedy.

Foul brood is the rotting of brood in a hive; the caps of
the sealed brood appear indented and shriveled, and the larve
and young bees in unsealed cells become putrid, emitting a
disgusting stench. With an atomizer (Fig. 37) spray the
hive, bees, brood, honey and combs with a solution of salicylic
acid, borax and rain water, repeated on the sixth day. Re-
move the diseased brood from the hive and give them good
capped honey, and if not too far advanced this may give relief.

ONT a) Se ee

PAGE.
ANCIENT HISTORY of Bees and Honeyl2
JAPEARY;, lOGAtlONOE. -ic2.,.cssanieueeccass 26
ARTIFICIAL COLONIES, how made..... 65
BEES, how to procure................00:: 8
how many colonies to begin with. . .28
how to get out of honey boxes...... 47
KEDU OMISHARES 2 oie ae -.c nisms eo cielnleie <i-isi é
kinds in gach colony................. 13
KINGS: FO. PUTCHASE. 0c eid) Se eee ee Sse 29
when to commence keeping........ 28
[AEM MEN EMME so B ccs ois aceineenorenerec oc 33
BER MRED DRS OF. cutee ce ool cane eeeacees ce 76
REIIIG TO WWAHI Sites i memrcmnans cely Ses eis sciearen 78
BEE KEEPING aScience................- 25
TERT IVIGTEN arnt let ayctetats ota aetsiardelo isles oa 48
BEE SMOKERS~—the use of.............. [7
BEE VEIL, complete face protection... .77
BEESWAX EXTRACTOR..........0...---, 5
CASES to hold “‘ Prize Boxes”’....... , 41
COLONTES— how to care for first........ 30
now and whenmay be moved....... 28
should always be strong............. 36
COMB HONS CARBINE. onc: 0 ond gece ce 42
COMB BUILDING, and Cells...... 22, 23, 54
new comb always desirable...... alee
NOW MAG ic5005. cedsees Sooo shoooacoaca
COMB TOUNDABIONG:. .... ck cccccc cescecs 53
are corruearon. advantageous ?. ..57
experiments With. ..........0...0c005 53
how cut and fastened................ =
should it be thick or thin ?..........
how to be used in Surplus Boxes.. 5
‘COMB FOUNDATION MACHINE.........
‘COMB HONEY, Ayperatas to secure... 38
exporting to pape Sandadnenacs -46
MANACEMICNE Ol. occ occ cscs cise eeslerms 47
VAT MORIN. actin wiaseieeinists o(cleinnie ssl « hats onic 45
DION) Meth, CURG FOR cic ss ciiec'stels siete 48
DISEASES Of BES... ..2. cc cicccscccsens 79
DIVIDING 'COBGONTES. occcccscnsscauecwe
TDEVISION (BOARD: 23 one cece cay sr vee dees op
DRONES, when necessary in a hive..... 17
DVSRN DRE oo cece cei towcchwve dames 79
HkKTRACTED: ELONEW?s fot... fac ce ces celts 49
FACTS worth Remembering............ 58
FEEDING, when and how to be done...75
HERTILE WORKERS! . ccc sacle crisis a 00 70
Foun Broop—Cure for................- 79
FRAME of Transterred Comb........... 72
Stand for............. HOU b Ra o JOO GIO 61
FRUIT TREES, do Bees injure them ?. .34
GLASSING BOKER ais cse)isicic re cle 10s vieiereleisie 2
HIVES, the New Langstroth............ 3h
a good one NeCessary........+-.-.0-: 35
box, how to examine........... Roane 29
bees marking location of............ 31
MARINE MEM ye isateeee re wwe tate lerevaieveters 43
MOVADIC-fLAMES is. cok cc cles ¢cise.e cept 38
nucleus colonies, how made......... 64
position in the Apiary............... 28
what Hive to use..........-...ee200- 35
HONEY Bloom.......... REM sue sere 34
honey boxes...........- -- eae iveste 39
CRETACDC GS, celee slcteeicide o ule cicisartesiercis 49
SLOTS DUCE aivic cs «\claic'e wicistala/sieie Yaliciaiatelcietestere 47
PACT eae vie aie eisiacle ines sails cisie 47
IN AT ROEM 5 ho iecsiate os epe's alsieeieeteontosone 47
HONEY EXTRACTOR. .............00000- 49
comb basket and strainer...........d1

AGE.

HONEY EXTRACTOR—continu ed,

how and when to use..... ....... 49, 51

knives £01, «0. 0. coe: ve ease sees

wire comb baskets for............... 51
HONEY "KNIFE. fo. cece eee eee 52
HONEY-PRODUCING PLANTS.......... 3:
INTRODUCTION of Queen Cell.......... 60
ITALIAN BEES... 2. 20. 2 eee 59
ITALIANIZING an Apiary............... 59
LANGSTROTH HIVE and FRAME....... 36
LOcATION—Cchanging, and marking it. .31
LOCATION Of Apiary... 2...) eeeeee nee 26
LUCK or SCIENCE? Which ?...........
MANDIBLE of Queen victtewaetamte Eo aite te 60
MARKETING TIONEY. >: f6.05 eee 46

crate for prize boxes................- 46
MOORE’s Honey Box....................40
MOVING COLONIES. 30.000 s. a youn ene 28
NATURAL HISTORY of the Bee........ 11
NATURAL SWARMS—how to eare for. .68

how to prevent them................ 65
NUCLEUS COLONIES—care of........... 65
POLLEN or Bee’ Breads eee 24
PROPOLIS or Bee Glue..............-.0-- 24
PRIZE HONEY Box—description of.39, 46
QUEEN (italian). 2. cen oc eee nee 13

cages (for shipping)

clipping wing of,............

development of......... ;

laying Of. 0... nctee ee
NEVE, LODE ADSENG.s 2c. - anette
OVALIES OES 6.0. 04.0 sone eee eee eeenee
piping of..
shipping of..

QUEEN CELLS :
aa OL Lv avimose wees sieves ae eleeeters 63

%
SHIPPING QUEENS and COLONIBES..... 78
SPRING DWINDLING................0-- 33
SPRAYING BPES with Atomizer........ 62
STARTING an Apiary... .:.ssneeeeeeeeee 25
STINGS... Bac cciiec's baile « Gaeeaee oye eeahats 78
SWARMING, how prevented............. 65
after-SWarMS .. «0.0. sae aneeeeeene .68
Hivine Swarms: -) 04. foe ee cee ee 69
PUPCHASING. 2.5 och Slee eee eee 30
TIN POINTS for gl peste honeyonseaee. 42
TRANSFERRING BEES........ccesccceees 72
best method of aoine ibs sccies seats 73
UNITING WEAK COLONIES............. .
VALENTINE’S FRAME STAND..........

WAX, how produced and secured. . .20, By
WAX. EXTRACTOR. =.... 1. -:eneeseeeeee 57
WINTERING, requisites to safe......... 32
WORKERS, figure and function of...17, a
pollen baskets Of..............-ce000

THE BEST IS THE CHEAPEST!
COnrin Barr yy 7S

EXCELSIOR HONEY EXTRACTOR!

From Eight to Fourteen Dollars.

Having made several improvements in the EXCELSIOR EXTRACTOR for
1879, it is now offered to the Bee-Keepers of America as the MOS’ PERFECT
MACHINE IN THE MARKET. The universal favor with which the EXCEL-
SIOR EXTRACTOR was received in 1878, has induced other manufacturers to
adopt several of itsimprovements. My experience and experiments of last sea-
son, with the assistance and suggestions of skillful workmen, have enabled me to
perfectan Extractor that cannot be excelled, and can only be equaled
by being closely imitated. 5

The Excelsior is made entirely of metal, and is conse-
quently very light, strong and durable, with lugs at the
bottom for firmly attaching to the floor if desired.

The strong over-motion gearing, so necessary to ease
in running and speedy operating, was designed and is
manufactured expressly for the Excelsior. A child
ten years of age can operate the machine as rapidly as
it can be supplied with combs.

The top or cross-band, to which is attached the gear-
ing, is wrought iron, three inches broad, with the ends

turned down in such manner as to thoroughly brace
and strengthen the can, and holding the basket firmly
in an upright position.

The Comb Basket having vertical sides, insures the
extracting power alike for top and bottom of frames.
The sides of the basket being movable and interchange-

able, greatly facilitate the operation of dusting before
and thoroughly cleaning after use if desired.
_ The basket can be taken from or replaced in the can
in a moment, there being no rusty screws to take out
or nuts to remove.

At the bottom of the can, and below the basket, is a
cone or metal standard, in the top of which revolves

{
|

" nt Wa
Hoh

|

ah IN} |
ma
TAY

the bottom pivot of the basket, thereby giving room for
sixty or seventy pounds of honey without touching the
basket or pivot below.

Nos. 3, 4and 5 have strainers covering the canal lead-
ing to the faucet, which obviate the delay of several
hours in waiting for the honey to settle, and the tedious
and wasteful process of skimming. The faucet being
below the bottom level of the honey, renders unneces-
sary the usual tipping and wrenching incident to draw- =
ing off the honey. These also have close-fitting metal
covers, which entirely exclude dust, dirt, flles and bees when not in use.

The baskets of Nos.4and5have no center rod running from top to bottom,
which will be found very convenient by those who uncap both sides of the comb
before putting in the basket, as they can be turned without removal.

The strong iron handles placed at the sides, a little above the center, are com-
pletely side-braced, and add much to convenience in handling. :

The wire baskets are very neat specimens of skillful workmanship, thoroughly
braced at every point where experience has proven it to be most requisite, and
nothing has been omitted that could add to its efficiency. an

The No. 4, for three frames, has a triangular basket, movable sides, no center
rod, runs smoothly regardless of number of frames, und is fast superseding the
demand for four-sided baskets.

A LOWER PRICED MACHINE.

A cheaper machine being called for by those having but few colonies, and not
making a specialty of bee-keeping, I have made a special size to take the Lang-
stroth frame, and one for the American, to sell at $8.00 each. These have no
covers or strainer, and are smaller than the $12.00 and $14.00 sizes, but for the
frames named are equal to the others for effective work, and are the best cheap
Extractors made.

Sizes and Prices:

No. 1.—For 2 Langstroth frames, 10x18 inches............... aie beeenaeee meld seeeeee $8 00
“* 2.—For 2 American frames, 13x13 inches.............02scaceceseecceeeees leisiees 8 00
‘* 3.—For 2 frames, 13x20 inches, or less (which embraces all standard sizes) 12 00
be 4.—For 3 3 be Ty Ty te v3 12 00
“ 5.—For 4 6e ity 6s 6s “ “ss 14 00

_ A liberal discount to dealers in Bee-Keepers’ _suppliesand to parties order-
ing in quantity. Address, Cc. C. COFFINE RY, Chicago, Ill.,

Or American Bee Journal, Chicago, Ill., where samples can be seen.

oy |

10 i

1

OAT

init
nh peer ULL

VienenfthcFe mit beweg:
lichen Gejtellen,

Honig-Gumpen,

Stalienifhe Vienenu, Koniginnen,
Sienen-Riudherer, Sienenfdleier, Gummi-
Handfdhuhe, Kiinfilide Gonigidheiben-
Fundamente, Saamen fiir Honig-
Pflanzen,
fowie Wes, was Bienengudter gebrauden.

—

~—6« Sou berfaufern bei:

shomas ©, Newman,
Herausgeber des
‘‘The American Bee Journal.’’

The American Bee Journal twird monatlic&h) berauss 2
gegeben und tojtet $. per Sabrim Boraus. Cs ift die”
Ne altefte Bienen=Zeitung in der Welt, pie erfolgreidften Arps
WA HN utd gebildetiten Bienenziicter in Curopa und Amerifa 2

@ ‘chreiben fiir ive Spalten.

Thos. G. Newman & Son, 974 W. Madison st., Chicago.

-

NEW LANGSTROTH GEE HIVE,

WITH MANIPULATING SIDE.

This Improvement in the
old Langstroth Hive is ex-
ceedingly valuable, as it al-
lows the closest watching of
a colony with the greatest
ease and comfort. y turn-
ing the thumpb-screw (L) and
opening the movable side
(which takes but an instant),
the frames can be examined,
fy TY and by removing the loose

Hime) side-board (M), the bottom-
i l. board may becleaned—giving
Nes all the advantages claimed
Hit MZ for a loose bottom-board,
hi WA without its disadvantages,

This Hive is a combination
of the Langstroth Hive and
the North Star Hive—as pat-
ented June 5, 1877—and, no
doubt, will gain universal a
probation as soon as its
vantages are known. —

The New Langstroth Hive is peculiarly adapted for the production of comb
hhoney—its Honcy Rack is the best in EAA

ase, 2nd is adapted to the use of
the Prize Boxes, It holds 15 Prize
Boxes, with the separators between
them, marked B’Bin the cut. The
wedge (A) holds all with a vise-like
grasp. Theouter poxeeare snared, i

as they stand on the hive (C

Ry removing the wedge (A) any box
may be instantly removed, exam-
ined, returned, or replaced by an
empty one—the spaces between the
rows readily admitting the fingers
‘for that purpose.

\.
SAMPLE NEW LANGSTROTH HIV E-—Nailed, Not Painted.
No. 1.—Biood Chamber, 10 frames, portico, 74-inch cap—nosurplus arrange-

TELM rae lta eee, Mae Meni aM hues eo diuta ada Deinelw « cweode de ne de pwewdaa dads $2 00
-No. 2.—Same as No.1, with Comb-Honcy Rack, complete, same as shown by

PUES AMEE VIS CES ain ot a8 ade cinioy os hc cele Fwd os, Ge GCP claw mee manera Pow atvals asioc¥ ve vantage 3 00
-No. 3.—Same as No. 1, but having 2( frames, and Comb-Honey Rack—a com- S

plete 3-story HM Ree a Ee aoe cna occ cat Bitin cs ei aca Fab es eaecd 5 aa
No. 4.—Brood Chamber, 10 frames, and 7-inch story, with 7 cases containing

Prize Boxes and tin ast torsurplus Honey, with 2-inch cap...... 0
No. 5.—Same as No. 4—but having 10 extra frames—a complete 3-story hive:. 3 75
No. 6.—Brood Chamber, with 10 extra frames, for extracting, and 2-inch cap, 3 00

ry (= If painted, add $1.00 each.

MATERIAL FOR NEW LANGSTROTH HIVES.
CUT, READY TO NAIL—(1414x183 inches inside).

In lots of 5....No.1—(one-story), $1 25 In lots of 5...,.No.6—(two-story>, $1 80
ee 0... 1 anere? 1 20 z we “ we I 0
a ae Wee Re le ee 110 ge pa ss 160
a mas co 1 05 es ar hit sr 153
es BOE 25 * . 100 a TOO RE bi 150

- MATERIAL FOR LANGSTROTH FRAMES.

CUT, RUADY TO NAIL—(9}4x17% inches outside).

‘100 frames......$150 | 1,000 frames..... $14 ¢0 | 5,000 frames, per 1,000..$12 00
42 Yor sale at wholesale and retail. Address

SPERRY & CHANDLER, 974 W. Madison St., CHICAGO,
Or atthe AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL OFFICE.

NY

Y

: ua

A Mf y;

Ra &
Ay SEFC aI

Re
Sa

-COMPRISING

’ ITALIAN QUEENS, |

FULL COLONIES,

Movable-Frame Hives

Honey Extractors,

BEE VEILS, RUBBER GLOVES,
ARTIFICIAL COMB FOUNDATION,
BEE SMOKERS,

seeds for Honey Plants,

—AND—
Everything used by Bee-Keepers, for Sale by

THOS. G. NEWMAN & SON, Chicago.

%

AND

Reliable * Bee-Paper

IN THE WORLD!

It is the best scientific and practical Journal
of APICUBTURE ever published.’ The most
successful and experienced Bee-keepers in
Europe, as well as America, write for it.

—:0: —.
TERMS: $1.50 PER ANNUM.
A Sample Copy sent for 10 cts.

Address, THOS. G. NEWMAN & SON,
CHICAGO, ILL.

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