wi a neal COT: 5 Sie tests Fee emt ra eel ~ Bee-Keepers Guide: MANUAL OF THE APIARY, BY A. 5 COOK, Professor 7 Entomology IN THE MICHIGAN STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE. EIGHTH EDITION, REVISED, ENLARGED, MOSTLY RE-WRITTEN AND BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED. SENS TOUSEN Pica, Vids .\ IGz 0) JF Weegee - Boer a » No. & j WF FE WASHING! LANSING, MICHIGAN, 1883. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, b iar ; ALBERT J. COOK, xy In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, ; 4 ; } ad if - , Ps F 4 so 7 i i i ~ Seon PRINTED BY MYERS BROS., CoLUMBUS, OHIO. ee « , ; 3 5 rt Tis ‘ <... s6s:.01.0.ceasvsecsesusrdessexsnevsyoresosaeveeke dudes diese eatiattennae The Cover Of the HVE c.c..acecessserecorenssgscassensocensenoats ta, -uastes pease eanaaaaae A. Block for making PYrames) iocicicicsccessccasesooascescecaccueacesceewe asonustsecedeenren 134 — COVED LOLA TANIES. oss ..0s cecasess susvasncosceesoctesteaavensertaseiiescsacdussscenseeeteneem oueveces 135 DiViSiON. 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CHAPTER XXI. : Ee Ba Calendar and AXIOMS... ...6....s.scccsse ss ity, Work for Different Months. ‘ . DP TINDELY Sidacncccctadeasss ean sav agsinud canioxedoclstncee sata casctecatteenerieaeeeten ord . .§ ROD Y UA NY) «oa vcs isos csvscs set avecceasesacunenscuducsertecsagey-aneadsSeees eee sees Mareby 0.2: wi sedsaatieonoantneyeasshonasd tueebdanenpiles ni acter iee eee ea Wi May.........- BET h Pipette ra rea tbe bs Lhndnspviad scheasaoee ns ee 4 ane ste ith. PRANAB OE cet Neri Se: fy Sth fence DU Yivigsr act see sanshscsccaterstecedanut sscevess suas sense voseassanyecenseterse ad eget = x AUIBAIBG occ obeisce Le Scsnsustpsutecctecslevsiuen gio desen dace avcestacsacs siveencetenesien tan MOVLEMUDOIs aceccssasssesscarce ab cstdergivesdeestatostesere eee esssveee A met OCtObene aise. poeple Bats / November... el December... ‘Axioms........ : ~ ‘ \ “ ‘ , j & i ~ d “ - \ Pr ODUCTION. WHO MAY KEEP BEES. SPECIALISTS. Any person who is cautious, observing, and prompt to do whatever the needs of his business require, with no thought of delay, may make apiculture a specialty with almost certain prospects of success. He must also be willing to work with Spartan energy during the busy season, and must persist, though sore discouragement, and even dire misfortune, essay to thwart his plans and rob him of his coveted gains. I make no mention of capital to begin with, or territory on which to locate; for men of true metal—men whose energy of mind and body bespeak success in advance—will solve these ques- tions long before their experience and knowledge warrant their assuming the charge of large apiaries. AMATEURS. Apiculture, as an avocation, may be safely recommended to those of any business or profession who possess the above named qualities and control a little space for their bees, either a yard a few rods from street and neighbor, or a flat roof where hives may securely rest (C. F. Muth, of Cincinnati, keeps his bees very successfully on the top of his store, in the very heart of the city), and who are able to devote a little time, when re- quired, to the care of their bees. The amount of time will of course vary with the number of colonies kept, but with proper - management this time may be given at any period of the day or week, and thus not interfere with regular business. Thus residents of country, village, or city, male or female, who may wish to associate with and study natural objects, and add to 2 Introduction. their income and pleasure, will find here an ever waiting oppor- tunity. To ladies, shut out from fresh air and sunshine till pallor and languor point sadly to departing health and vigor, and to men whose business precludes air and exercise, apicul- ture cannot be too highly recommended as an avocation. WHO ARE SPECIALLY INTERDICTED. There are a few people whose systems seem to be specially susceptible to the poison intruded with the bee’s sting. Some- times such persons, if even stung on the foot, will be so thor- oughly poisoned that their eyes will swell so they cannot see, and they will suffer with fever for days, and, very rarely, individ- uals are so sensitive to this poison that a bee-sting proves fatal. I hardly need say that such people should never keep bees. Many persons, among whom were the noted Klein and Gunther, are at first very susceptible to the poison, but if spurred on by their enthusiasm they persist they will soon become so inoculated that they experience no serious injury from the stings. It is a well-recognized fact that each succeeding sting is less power- ful to work harm. Every bee-keeper is almost sure to receive an occasional sting, though with the experienced these are very rare and occasion neither fear nor anxiety. INDUCEMENTS TO BEE-KEEPING. RECREATION. Among the attractive features of apiculture, I mention the pleasure which it offers its votaries. There is a fascination about the apiary which is indescribable. Nature is always presenting’*the most pleasurable surprises to those on the alert to receive them, and among the insect hosts, especially bees, the instincts and habits are so inexplicable and marvelous that the student of this department of nature never ceases to meet with exhibitions that move him, not less with wonder than with admiration. Thus bee-keeping affords most wholesome rec- reation, especially to any who love to look upon the book of nature and study the marvelous pages she is ever waiting to present. To such, the very fascination of their pursuit is of itself a rich reward for the time and labor expended. I doubt if there is any other class of manual laborers who engage in Inducements to Bee- Keeping. | 3 their business, and dwell upon it, with the same fondness as do bee-keepers. Indeed, to meet a scientific bee-keeper is to meet an enthusiast. A thorough study of the wonderful economy of the hive must, from its very nature, go hand-in-hand with delight and admiration. I once asked an extensive apiarist, who was also a farmer, why he kept bees. The answer was characteristic: ‘‘ Even if I could not make a good deal the most money with my bees, I should still keep them for the real pleasure they bring me.” But yesterday I asked the same question of Prof. Daniels, President of the Grand Rapids schools, whose official duties are very severe. Said he: ‘‘ For the restful pleasure which I receive in their management.” I am very sure that were there no other inducement than that of pleasure, I should be slow to part with these models of in- _ dustry whose marvelous instincts and wondrous life-habits are ever ministering to my delight and astonishment. Some years since I received a visit from my old friend and college class-mate, O. Clute. We visited the apiary, with which he was much pleased. He took the ‘‘ Manual” home with him and at once purchased several colonies of bees. This new work brought great pleasure and recreation, which culmin- ated in that most fascinating book, ‘‘ Blessed Bees.” Though a work of fiction, this can but be read with great pleasure and profit, by every person, whether apiarist or not. PROFITS. The profits of apiculture urge its adoption as a pursuit. When we consider the comparatively small amount of capital invested and the relatively small amount of labor and expense attending its operations, we are surprised at the abundant re- ward that is sure to wait upon its intelligent practice. I do not wish to be understood here as claiming that labor—yes, real, hard, back-aching labor—is not required in the apiary. The specialist, with his hundred or more colonies, will have, at certain seasons, hard and vigorous work, but this will be both pleasant and healthful, and will go hand-in-hand with _ thought, so that brain and muscle will work together. Yet this time of hard, physical labor will only continue for five or six months, and for the balance of the year the apiarist has, or may have, comparative leisure. Nor do I think that all will succeed. The fickle, careless, indolent, heedless man will . 4 Profits of Bee-Keeping. as surely fail in apiculture as in any other calling. But I repeat, in the light of many years of experience, where accurate weight, measure, and counting of change exclude all conjec- ture, that there is no manual labor pursuit where the returns areso large when compared with the labor and expense inyolved. An intelligent apiarist may invest in bees any spring, in Michigan, with the absolute certainty of more than doubling his investment the first season; while a net gain of 400 per cent. brings no surprise to the experienced apiarists of our state. This of course applies only to a limited number of b, colonies. Nor is Michigan superior to other states as a loca- tion for the apiarist. During the past season, the poorest I ever knew, our fifteen colonies of bees in the College apiary have netted us over $200. In 1876, each colony gave a net return of $24.04, while in 1875, our bees gave a profit, above all expense, of over 400 per cent. of their entire value in the spring. Mr. Fisk Bangs, who graduated at our College one year since, purchased last spring seven colonies of bees. The proceeds of these seven colonies have more than paid all ex- penses, including first cost of bees, in honey sold, while there are now sixteen colonies as clear gain, if we do not count the labor, and we need hardly do so as it has in no wise interfered with the regular duties of the owner. Several farmers of our state who possess good apiaries and good improved farms, have told me that their apiaries were more profitable than their farms. Who will doubt the profits of apiculture in the face of friend Doolittle’s experience? He has realized $6,000 in five years, simply from the honey taken from fifty colonies. This $6,000 is in excess of all expenses except his own time. Add to this the increase of stocks, and then remember that one man can easily care for one hundred colonies, and we have a graphic picture of apiarian profits. Bee-keeping made Adam Grimm a wealthy man. It brought to Capt. Hetherington over $10,000 as the cash receipts of a single year’s honey crop. It enabled Mr. Harbison, so it is reported, to ship from his own apiary eleven car-loads of comb-honey as the product of a single season. What greater recommendation has any pur- suit? Opportunity for money making, even with hardships and privations, is attractive and seldom disregarded; such oppertunity with labor that brings, im itself, constant delight, is surely worthy of attention. f Excellence for Amateurs and Women. D EXCELLENCE AS AN AMATEUR PURSUIT. Again, there is no business, and I speak from experience, that serves so well as an avocation. It offers additional funds to the poorly paid, out-door air to the clerk and office-hand, healthful exercise to the person of sedentary habits, and superb recreation to the student or professional man, and especially to him whose life-work is of that dull, hum-drum, routine order that seems to rob life of all zest. The labor required in keeping bees can, with a little thought and management, be so planned, if but few colonies are kept, as not to infringe up- on the time demanded by the regular occupation. Indeed, I have never been more heartily thanked than by such persons- as named above, because. I had called them to consider—which usually means to adopt—the pleasing duties of the apiary. ADAPTATION TO WOMEN. Apiculture may also bring succor to those whom society has not been over-ready to favor—our women. Widowed mothers, dependent girls, the weak and the feeble, all may find a bless- ing in the easy, pleasant and profitable labors of the apiary. Of course, women who lack vigor and health can care for but very few colonies, and must have sufficient strength to bend over and lift the small-sized frames of comb when loaded with honey, and to carry empty hives. With the proper thought and management, full colonies need never he lifted, nor work done in the hot sunshine. Yet right here let me add, and emphasize the truth, that only those who will let energetic thought and skillful plan, and above all promptitude and persistence, make up for physical weakness, should enlist as apiarists. Usually a stronger body and improved health, the results of pure air, sunshine and exercise, will make each successive day’s labor more easy, and will permit a corresponding growth in the size of the apiary for each successive season. One of the most noted apiarists, not only in America but in the world, sought in bee-keeping her lost health, and found not only health but reputation and influence. Some of the most successful apiarists in our country are women. Of these, many were led to adopt the pursuit because of waning health, grasping at this as the ‘last and successful weapon with which to vanquish the grim monster. 6 Adaptation to Women. That able apiarist, and terse writer on apiculture, Mrs. L. Harrison, states that the physicians told her that she could not live ; but apiculture did for her what the physicians could notdo, restored her to health, and gave her such vigor that she has been able to work a large apiary for years. Said ‘“‘Cyula Linswik”—whose excellent and beautifully written articles have so often charmed the readers of the bee publications, and who has had five years of successful experi- ence as an apiarist—in a paper read before our Michigan Con- vention of March, 1877: ‘‘I would gladly purchase exemp- tion from in-door work, on washing-day, by two days’ labor among the bees, and I find two hours labor at the ironing-table more fatiguing than two hours of the severest toil the apiary can exact.” I repeat, that apiculture offers to many women not only pleasure but profit. Mrs. L. B. Baker, of Lansing, Michigan, who has kept bees very successfully for four years, read an admirable paper be- fore the same Convention, in which she said: ‘‘But I can say, having tried both, (keeping boarding-house and apicul- ture,) I give bee- -keeping the preference, as more profitable, healthful, independent and enjoyable. * > > T find the labors of the apilary more endurable than working over a cook- stove in-doors, and more pleasant and conducive to health. * = * | believe that many of our delicate and invalid ladies would find renewed vigor of body and mind in the labors and recreations of the apiary. * * * By beginning in the early spring, when the weather was cool and the work light, I became gradually accustomed to out-door labor, and by midsummer found myself as well able to endure the heat of the sun as my husband, who has been accustomed to it all his life. Previously, to attend an open-air picnic was to return with a head-ache. * * * My own experience in the apiary has been a source of interest and enjoyment far exceed- ing my anticipations.” Although Mrs. Baker commenced with but two colonies of bees, her net profits the first season were over $100; the second year but a few cents less than $300; and the third year about $250. ‘The proof of the pudding i is in the eating ;” and such words as those above show that apiculture offers special inducements to our sisters to be- come either amateur or professional apiarists. “1 Affords Mental Discipline. IMPROVES THE MIND AND THE OBSERVATION. Successful apiculture demands close and accurate observa- tion, and hard, continuous thought and study, and this too, in the wondrous realm of nature. In all this, the apiarist re- ceives manifold and substantial advantages. In the cultiva- tion of the habit of observation, a person becomes constantly more able, useful, and susceptible to pleasure—results which also follow as surely on the habit of thought and study. It is hardly conceivable that the wide-awake apiarist, who is so frequently busy with his wonder-working comrades of the hive, can ever be lonely, or feel time hanging heavily on his hands. The mind is occupied, and there is no chance for ennui. The whole tendency of such thought and study, where nature is the subject, is to refine the taste, elevate the desires, and ennoble manhood. Once get our youth, with their sus- ceptible natures, engaged in such wholesome study, and we shall have less reason to fear the vicious tendencies of the street, or the luring vices and damning influences of the saloon. Thus apiculture spreads an intellectual feast that even the old philosophers would have coveted ; furnishes the rarest food for the observing faculties, and best of all, by keeping its votaries face to face with the matchless creations of the All Father, must draw them toward Him ‘‘who went about doing good,” and ‘‘in whom there was no guile.” YIELDS DELICIOUS FOOD. last inducement to apiculture, certainly not unworthy of mention, is the offerings it brings to our tables. Health, yea, our very lives, demand that we should eat sweets. It is a truth that our sugars, and especially our commercial syrups, are so adulterated as to be often poisonous. The apiary, in lieu of these, gives us one of the most delicious and whole- some of sweets, which has received merited praise, as food fit for the gods, from the most ancient time till the present day. To ever have within reach the beautiful, immaculate comb, or the equally grateful nectar, right from the extractor, is certainly a blessing of no mean order. We may thus supply our families and friends with a most necessary and desirable food element, and this with no cloud of fear from vile, poison- ous adulterations. 8 Contributes to the Nation’s Wealth. ADDS TO THE NATION’S WEALTH. An excellent authority places the number of colonies of bees in the United States, in 1881, at 3,000,000, and the honey production, for the year, at more than 200,000,000 Ibs. The production for that year was not up to the average, and yet the cash value of the year’s honey crop exceeds $30,000,000. We may safely add as much more as the value of the increase of colonies, and we have a grand total of $60,000,000, nearly enough to pay the interest on the national debt, were the bonds all refunded. And yet all this is but gathered nectar, which would go to waste were it not for the apiarist and his bees. We thus save to the country. that which would other- wise be a total loss. Apiculture then, in adding so immensely to the productive capital of the country, is worthy, as an art, to receive the encouragement and fostering care of the State. And the thought that he is performing substantial service to the State, may well add to the pleasure of the apiarist, as he performs his daily round of labor. WHAT SUCCESSFUL BEE-KEEPING REQUIRES. MENTAL. EFFORT. No one should commence this business who is not willing to read, think, and study. To be sure, the ignorant and un- thinking may stumble on success for a time, but sooner or later failure will set her seal upon their efforts. Those of our apiarists who have studied the hardest, observed the closest, and thought the deepest, have even passed the late terrible winters with but slight loss. Of course the novice will ask, ‘‘How and what shall I study?” EXPERIENCE NECESSARY. Nothing will take the place of real experience. Commence with a few colonies, even one or two is best, and make the bees your companions at every possible opportunity. Note every change, whether of the bees, their development, or work, and then by earnest thought strive to divine the cause. Requisites to Success. 9 LEARN FROM OTHERS. Great good will also come from visiting other apiarists. Note their methods and apiarian apparatus. Strive by con- versation to gain new and valuable ideas, and gratefully adopt whatever is found, by comparison, to be an improvement upon your own past system and practice. AID FROM CONVENTIONS. Attend conventions whenever distance and means render this possible. Here you will not only be made better by social intercourse with those whose occupation and study make them sympathetic and congenial, but you will find a real conserva- tory of scientific truths, valuable hints, and improved instru- ments and methods. And the apt attertion—rendered possible by your own experience—which you will give to essays, dis- cussions, and private conversations, will so enrich your mind that you will return to your home encouraged and able to do better work, and to achieve higher success. I have attended nearly all the meetings of the Michigan Convention, and never | yet when I was not well paid for all trouble and expense by the many, often very valuable, suggestions which I received. AID FROM BEE PUBLICATIONS, Hyery apiarist should take and read at least one of the many excellent bee publications that are issued in our country. It has been suggested that Francis Huber’s blindness was an advantage to him, as he thus had the assistance of two pairs of eyes, his wife’s and servant’s, instead of one. So, too, of the apiarist who reads the bee publications. He has the aid of the eyes, and the brains, of hundreds of intelligent and observing bee-keepers. Who is it that squanders his money on worse than useless patents and fixtures? He who ‘‘ cannot afford” to take a bee-journal. _ It would be invidious and uncalled for to reeommend any one of these valuable papers to the exclusion of the others. Each has its peculiar excellences, and all who can may well secure all of them to aid and direct their ways. _ American Bee Journal.—This, the oldest bee paper, and the only weekly publication devoted exclusively to apiculture in 10 The Bee-Papers. the world, is not only peculiar for its age, but for the ability with which it has been managed, with almost no exception, even from its first appearance. Samuel Wagner, its founder and long its editor, had few superiors in breadth of culture, strength of judgment, and practical and historic knowledge of apiculture. With what pleasure I remember the elegant, really classic, diction of the editorials, the dignified bearing and freedom from asperities which marked the old American Bee Journal as it made its monthly visits fresh from the editor- ial supervision of Mr. Samuel Wagner. Some one has said that there is something in the very atmosphere of a scholarly gentleman that impresses all who approach him. I have often thought, as memory reverted to the old Journal, or as I have re-read the numbers which bear the impress of Mr. Wagner’s superior learning, that, though the man is gone, the stamp of his noble character and classical culture is still on these pages, aiding, instructing, elevating, all who are so for- tunate as to possess the early volumes of this periodical. I» am also happy to state that the Journal is again in good hands. Mr. Newman is an experienced editor, and a man of excellent judgment. As an editor he has fought adulteration with great energy, has done much to exalt the honey market, and has given powerful aid in the work of organizing bee-keepers’ con- ventions. He has an active mind and is quick to lay hold of that which will aid the bee-keeper; and when I add that he brings to his editorial aid the most able, experienced, and educated apiarists of the world, I surely have spoken high but just praise of the American Bee Journal, whose enviable repu- tation extends even to distant lands. It is edited by Thomas G. Newman, at Chicago. Gleanings in Bee Cultwre.—This periodical makes up for its brief history of six years by the vigor and energy which have characterized it from the first. Its editor is an active apiarist, who is constantly experimenting; a terse, able writer, and brimful of good nature and enthusiasm. I am free to say that in practical apiculture I am more indebted to Mr. Root than to any other one person, except Rey. L. L. Langstroth. _ I also think that, with few exceptions, he has done more for the recent advancement of practical apiculture than any other person in our country. This sprightly journal i is edited by A. I. Root, Medina, Ohio. Bee-Papers, and Books. re 11 Bee-Keepers’ Magazine.—I have read this periodical less than the others, and hence know less of it. It is well edited, and cer- tainly has many very able contributors. It is edited by A. J. King, New York City. Bee-Keepers’ Exchange.—The Exchange is an able journal. The four years of its life, and the vigor with which it is con- ducted, give promise not only of permanence, but of influence as one of the moving forces in the future of apicultural pro- gress in this country. It is edited by Houck.& Peet, Cana- joharie, New York. Bee-Keepers’ Guide.—This paper has been one of the motive powers in the advancement of apiculture for the last few years. It is edited by an experienced bee-keeper, and is doing its part as one of the auxiliaries to apiarian progress in our country. It is edited by A. G. Hill, Kendallville, Indiana. Kansas Bee-Keeper.—The ability with which this paper is edited, and the able contributions to its pages from many of the first bee-keepers in the country, have given it more than a state circulation, and entitle it justly to a broader name. It is edited by Seovell & Anderson, Columbus, Kansas. The California Apiarist.—This, though the youngest of our bee-papers, shows the vigor of manhood. It is edited by an experienced bee-keeper, and an able writer, and will certainly meet a felt need among the bee-keepers of the Golden State. Its ability has already pushed it beyond the limits of its own state, and it is exerting a wholesome and valuable influence among the bee-keepers of the East. It is published by the California Apicultural Publishing Co., Oakland, California. BOOKS FOR THE APIARIST. Having read very many of the books treating of apiculture, both American and foreign, I can freely recommend such a course to others. Hach book has peculiar excellences, and may be read with interest and profit. Langstroth on the Honey Bee.—This treatise will ever remain a classic in bee-literature. I cannot over-estimate the benefits which I have received from the study of its pages. It was a high, but deserved, encomium, which J. Hunter, of England, in his ‘‘ Manual of Bee-Keeping,” paid to this work: ‘‘It is unquestionably the best bee-book in the English language.” 12 Books for the Bee-Keeper. The style of this work is so admirable, the subject matter so replete with interest, and the entire book so entertaining, that it is a desirable addition to any library, and no thoughtful, studious apiarist can well be without it. It is especially happy -in detailing the methods of experimentation, and in showing with what caution the true scientist establishes principles or deduces conclusions. The work is wonderfully free from errors, and, had the science and practice of apiculture remained stationary, there would have been little need of another work; but as some of the most important improvements in apiculture are not mentioned, the book would be a very unsatisfactory guide to the apiarist of to-day. Quinby’s Mysteries of Bee-Keeping.—This is a plain, sensible treatise, written by.one of America’s most successful bee- keepers. The work has just been revised by L. C. Root, who has fully maintained its excellent character. The admirable style and eminent practicality of this work have lost nothing in the revision. Mr. Root is the son-in-law of the late Mr. Quinby, and was fully advised of the latest views and dis- coveries of the great bee-keeper. To these he has added the rich results of his own experience, as well as the latest dis- coveries and methods of the most progressive apiarists. Kings Text-book.—This work is plain, explicit, fresh, and, partly owing to its cheapness, has had, certainly, next to Langstroth’s work, the largest sale of any book of its kind in the ‘country. It has been, therefore, especially in former years, one of the very first agencies in developing and further- ing the interests of bee- keepers. It is not so full as my own work, Langstroth’s, Quinby’s, or the ‘‘A B C of Bee Culture,” but 3 is an excellent compendium of the art of bee-keeping. _ A BC of Bee-Culture.—This work is by the editor of Gleanings in Bee Culture. It is arranged in the convenient form of our cyclopedias, is printed in fine style, on beautiful paper, and is well illustrated. JI need hardly say that the style is pleasing and vigorous. The subject matter is fresh, . and embodies the most recent discoveries and inventions per- taining to bee-keeping. That it may be kept abreast of apiar- ian progress, the type is to be kept in position, so that each new discovery may be added as soon as made. Bees and Honey. —This work is by the editor of the American Bee Journal. It is smaller than others, but contains an epitome Books for the Bee-Keeper. 13 -of the science and art of bee-culture. Like all of the other works it has its peculiar excellences, and may well find a place in the library of every progressive apiarist. Blessed Bees.—This fascinating romance is full of practical information, and contagious enthusiasm. FOREIGN PUBLICATIONS. The British Bee Journal, as the exponent of apiarian methods ~ and practices, is interesting and valuable to American bee- keepers. It shows that in many things, as in the method of organizing and conducting conventions, so as to make them highly conducive to apicultural progress, we have much to learn from our brothers in Britain. FOREIGN BOOKS. Bevan, revised, though but little changed, by Munn, is exceedingly interesting, and shows by its able historical chap- ters, admirable scientific disquisitions, and frequent quotations and references to practical and scientific writers on bees and bee-keeping, both ancient and modern, that the writers were men of extensive reading and great scientific ability. The book is of no practical value to us, but by the student it will be read with great interest. ‘‘ The Apiary, or Bees, Bee-Hives, and Bee Culture,” by Alfred Neighbour, London, is a fresh, sprightly little w ork, and as the third edition has just appeared, is, of course, up with the times. The book is in nice dress, con- cise, and very readable, and I am glad to commend it. A less interesting wouk, though by no means without merit, is the ‘‘Manual of Bee-Keeping,” by the late John Hunter, London. This is also recent.. The ‘‘ Bee-Keeper’s Guide Book,” by Tho. Wm. Cowen, is a small book of considerable merit. very prodigal of wax, and thus may possess a prospective com- mercial importance in these days of artificial comb-foundation. In this genus the basal joint of the tarsus is triangular, and they have two submarginal cells, not three, to the front wings. They are also smaller than our common bees, and have wings that do not reach the tip of their abdomeng. Another genus of stingless- bees, the genus Trigona, have the wings longer than the abdomens, and their jaws toothed. These, unlike the Melipona, are not confined to the New World, but are met with in Africa, India, and Australasia. These build their combs in tall trees, fastening them. to the branches much as does the Apis dorsata, soon to be mentioned. Of course insects of the genus Bombus—our common bumble-bees—helong to this family. Here the tongue is very long, the bee large, and thesting curved, with the barbs very short and few. Only the queen survives the winter. In spring she forms her nest under some sod or board, hollowing out a basin in the earth, and after storing a mass of bee-bread—probably a mixture of honey and pollen—she deposits several eggs in the mass. The larve, as soon as hatched out, eat out thimble- shaped spaces, which in time become even larger, and not un- 28 Species of Wild Bees. like in form the queen-cells of our hive-bees. When the bees issue from these cells the same are strengthened by wax. Later in the season these toarse wax cells become very numer- ous. Some may be made as cells and not formed as above. The wax is dark, and doubtless contains much pollen, as do the cappings and queen-cells of the honey-bees. At first the bees are all workers, later queens appear, and still later males. All, or nearly all, entomologists speak of two sizes of queen bumble-bees, the large and the small. The small appear early in the season, and the large late. A studentsof our College, Mr. N. P. Graham, who last year had a colony of bumble- bees in his room the whole season, thinks this an error. He believes that the individuals of the Bombus nest exactly cor- respond with those of the Apis. The queens, like those of bees, are smaller before mating and active laying. May not this be another case like that of the two kinds of worker-bees which deceived even Huber, an error consequent upon lack of careful and prolonged observation ? In Xylocopa, or the carpenter-bees, which much resemble the bumble-bees, we have a fine example of a boring insect. With its strong mandibles or jaws it cuts long tunnels, often one or two feet long, in the hardest wood. These burrows are divided by chip partitions into cells, and in each cell is left the bee-bread and an egg. Species of Xylocopa often do no slight damage by boring into the cornices, window casings, ete., of our houses and othtr buildings. I have also seen them slit long tubular flowers like those of the wild bergamont. I have often seen honey-bees visiting these slitted flowers, the nectar of which was thus made accessible to them. The mason-bee—well named—constructs cells of earth and gravel, which by aid of its spittle it has power to cement, so that they are harder than brick. The tailor, or leaf-cutting bees, of the genus Megachile, make wonderful cells from variously shaped pieces of leaves. These are always mathematical in form, usually circular and oblong, are cut—the insect making scissors of its jaws—from various leaves, the rose being a favorite. I have found these cells made almost wholly of the petals or flower leaves of the rose. The cells are made by gluing these leaf-sections in con- centric layers, letting them over-lap. The oblong sections form the walls of the cylinder, while the cireular pieces are Tailor and Mason Bees. 29 crowded as we press circular wads.into our shot-guns, and are used at the ends or for partitions where sevéral cells are placed together. When complete, the single cells are in form and size much like a revolver cartridge. When several are placed together, which is usually the case, they are arranged end to end, and in size and form are quite like a small stick of candy, though not more than one-third as long. These cells I have found in the grass, partially buried in the earth, in crevices, and in one case knew of their being built in the folds of a partially-knit sock, which a good house-wife had chanced to leave stationary for some days. These leaf-cutters have rows of yellow hairs underneath their bodies which aid them in carrying pollen. I have noticed them each summer for some years swarming on the Virginia creeper, often called woodbine, while in blossom, in quest of pollen, though I never saw a single hive-bee on these vines. ‘The tailor-bees often cut the foliage of the same vines quite badly. I have often reared beautiful bees of the genus Osmia, which are also called mason-bees. Their glistening colors of blue and green possess a luster and reflection unsurpassed even by the metals themselves. These rear their young in cells of mud, in mud-cells lining hollow weeds and shrubs, and in burrows which they dig in the hard earth. In early summer, during warm days, these glistening gems of life are frequently seen in walks and drives intent on gathering earth for mortar, or digging holes, and will hardly escape identification by the ob- serving apiarist, as. their form is so much like that of our honey- bees. They are smaller; yet their broad head, prominent eyes, — and general form, are very like those of the equally quick and active, yet more soberly attired, workers of the apiary. Other bees—the numerous species of the genus Nomada, and of Apathus, are the black sheep in the family Apide. These tramps, already referred to, like the English cuckoo and our American cow-blackbird, steal in upon the unwary, and, though all unbidden, lay their eggs; in this way appropriating food and lodgings for their own yet unborn. ‘Thus these insect vagabonds impose upon the unsuspecting foster-mothers in these violated homes, and these same foster-mothers show by their tender care of these merciless intruders, that they are miser- ably fooled, for they carefully guard and feed infant bees, which with age will in turn practice this same nefarious trickery. 30 Genus of the Honey-Bee. I reluctantly withhold further particulars of this wonderful bee family. When first I visited Messrs. Townley and Davis, of this State, I was struck with the fine collection of wild bees which each had made. Yet, unknowingly, they had incorpo- rated many that were not bees. Of course, many apiarists will wish to make such collections and also to study our wild bees. I hope the above will prove efficient aid. I hope, too, that it will stimulate others, especially youth, to the valuable and in- tensely interesting study of these wonders of nature. I am glad to open to the reader a page from the book of nature so replete with attractions as isthe above. NordoI think I have taken too much space in revealing the strangeand marvelous instincts, and wonderfully varied habits, of this highest of in- sect families, at the head of which stand our own fellow-labor- ers and companions of the apiary. THE GENUS OF THE HONEY-BEE. The genus Apis includes all bees that have no tibial spurs on the posterior legs. They have three cubital or sub-costal cells (1, 2, 3, Fig. 3)—the second row from the costal or an- IDTGhos: A.—Anterior Wing of a Bee. 1, 2, 3.—Sub-costal or Cubital Cells. B.—Secondary or Posterior Wing; a, hooks to attach to Primary Wing. terior edge—on the front or primary wings. On the inner side of the posterior basal tarsus, opposite the pollen baskets, in the neutérs or workers, are rows of hairs (Fig. 26, e) which are probably used in collecting pollen. In the males, which do no work except to fertilize the queens, the large compound eyes meet above, crowding the three simple eyes below (Fig. 4), while in the workers (Fig. 5) and queens these simple eyes, called ocelli, are above, and the compound eyes wide apart. The drones and queens have weak jaws, with a rudimentary The Genus Apis. 31 Fig. 4. Head of Drone, magnified. Antenne. Compound Fyes. Simple Eyes. IIE. 15: Head of Worker, Magnified. Antenne. Compound Eyes. Simple Hyes. tooth (Fig. 24, a, b), short tongues, and no pollen baskets, . though they have the broad tibia and wide basal tarsus (Fig. 20, p). there is some doubt as to the number of species of this genus. It is certain that the Apis Ligustica of Spinola, or Italian bee, the Apis fasciata of Latreille, or Egyptian bee, are only varieties of the Apis mellifica, which also includes the German or black bee. Mr. F. Smith, an able entomologist, considers Apis dorsata of India and the East Indies, Apis zonata of the same islands, Apis Indica of India and China, and Apis florea of India, 832 Other Species of Apis. Ceylon, China, and Borneo, as distinct species. He thinks, also, that Apis Adansoni and Apis nigrocincta are distinct, but states that they may be varietiesof Apis Indica. Some regard Apis unicolor as a distinct species, but it is probably a variety of Apis dorsata. As Apis mellifica has not been found in India, and is a native of Europe, Western Asia, and Africa, it seems quite possible though not probable that several of the above may turn out to be only varieties of Apis mellifica. If there are only color and size to distinguish them, and, indeed, one may add habits, then we may suspect, with good reason, the validity of the above arrangement. If there is structural difference, as Mr. Wallace says there is, in the male dorsata, then we may call them different species. ‘The Italian certainly has a longer tongue than the German, yet that is not sufficient to separate them as species. Apis zonata and Apis unicolor, - both of the East Indies, are said to be very black. . In the Autumn of 1879, Mr. D. A. Jones, of Beeton, On- tario, Canada, inaugurated the grandest.enterprise ever under- taken in the interests of apiculture. This was nothing less than to visit Cyprus, Syria, and the more distant India and the East Indies, for the purpose of securing and introducing into America such species and races of bees as gave promise of superior excellence. Mr. Jones procured the services of Mr. Frank Benton, a graduate of Michigan Agricultural College, a fine linguist and skilled apiarist, to aid in ‘this great under- taking. After visiting the principal apiaries of Eurone, these gentlemen located at Larnica, in the Island of Cyprus, where they established a large apiary composed of Cyprian and Syrian bees. The Cyprian bees were purchased on the Island, while the Syrians were procured personally by Mr. Jones in Syria. The following June, Mr. Jones returned to America with several hundred queens of these two races. Mr. Benton re- mained at Larnica to rear and ship more queens to Europe and America.- The following winter Mr. Benton visited Ceylon, Farther India, and Java, as Mr. Jones was determined to as- certain if there were better bees than those we already had, and if so to secure them. Apis dorsata was the special object of the quest, and as this bee was known as the ‘‘ great bee of Java”, Mr. Benton visited that island, in hopes to procure these bees. But to the sore disappointment not only of those who had the enterprise in charge, but of all progressive apiar- Description of Apis Dorsata. 30 ists, the bees in question were not to be found on that island. Mr. Benton learned at great cost that this bee is rare in Java, but common in the jungles of Ceylon, Hindoostan, Farther India, Sumatra, Borneo, and Timor. In Ceylon, Mr. Benton saw many colonies, most of which were in inaccessible places, though he'secured, after great laborand hardship, four colonies. ‘These bees usually suspend their great combs, which are often six feet long and four feet wide, to overhanging rocks, or to horizontal branches of trees. In one case, Mr. Benton found them in the crevice of a rock, nearly surrounded by the same. This indicates that they may be kept in hives. The combs hang side by side as do those of our common bees, but are one half inch apart. Mr. Benton found the tops of the combs, which contain the honey, from three to six inches thick, while those where brood is reared are one and one half inches thick. The drones and workers are all reared in the same cells, which are about the size of the drone-brood cells of our honey- comb. The worker bees, some specimens of which I have re- ceived from Mr. Jones, in size and general appearance much resemble our Italian queens. They have blue black wings, black bodies, which are ringed very much as are our Italians, only the yellow largely predominates. Mr. Benton writes me that in form and style of flight they much resemble wasps. They are the same size as the drones, varying from three-fourths to seven-eighths of an inchin length. They are easily handled -by aid of smoke, and are very, clumsy in their attempts to sting. ‘Their sting is no larger than that of our common bees, while the pain from their sting, Mr. Benton says, is not so great. The drones aré dark brown, marked with yellow. Strangely enough, they only fly, unless disturbed, after sun- down. ‘This is unfortunate, as with the same habits we might hope to mate them with our common bees, and thus procure a valuable cross. This may be a developed peculiarity, to pro- tect them from birds, and so might very likely disappear with - domestication. The queens are leather colored, and smaller, as compared with the workers, than are our common queens. The queens are more restless than are the workers while being handled. While procuring these bees, Mr. Benton was prostrated with a fever, and so the bees, during their long voyage to Syria, were neglected. Strange to say, one colony survived the long confinement, but perished soon after reach- 9 oO 34 Other Species of Apis. ing Syria. We can not call this journey a failure, as we now have the information that will render a second attempt surely successful. What has been learned will make the enterprising bee-keeper more desirous than ever to secure these bees. Their large size, long tongue, and immense capabilities in the way of wax secretion, as well as honey storing, give us great reason to hope for substantial benefits from their importation. We can but rejoice that the characteristic energy and enterprise of Mr. Jones are still apparent, as he does not propose to rest till Apis dorsata is in the possession of American apiarists. Mr. Benton also found A. Indica and A. florea on the Is- land of Ceylon. I have received some of the bees and comb of the former species. The comb is very delicate, the cells” being only one-sixth of an inch in diameter. The workers are less than one half of an inch long, brown in color, and their entire abdomens are beautifully rmged with brown and yellow. The drones are black, and very small. The one I have measures an eighth of an inch less in length than does the worker. The queens are leather colored, and very large as compared with the workers. They are as large as are ourcommon queens. These bees are very quick and are domesticated on the Island of Cey- lon. The workers of A. florea are also banded, and are more beautiful even than those of A. Indica. From, Mr. Benton’s description it must bea sort of ‘‘albino.” The sting of these two species is very small. From the small amount of stores which they gather, the tendency which they have to swarm out, and their inability to stand the cold, these two species promise little of value except from a scientific point of view. One colony of A. florea was brought by Mr. Benton to Cyprus, but it swarmed out and was lost. It seems strange that the genus Apis should not have been native to the American continent. Without doubt there were no bees of this genus here till introduced by the Caucasian race. It seems more strange, as we find that all the continents and islands of the Eastern hemisphere abound with represent- atives. It is one more illustration of the strange, inextricable puzzles connected with the geographical distribution of animals. SPECIES OF OUR HONEY-BEES. The bees at present domesticated unquestionably belong to the Apis mellifica. The character of this species will appear Apis Mellifica—Gierman Bee. 30 in the next chapter, as we proceed with their anatomy and physiology. As before stated, this species is native exclusively to the Eastern hemisphere, though it has been introduced wherever civilized man has taken up his abode. VARIETIES OF THE HONEY-BER. German or Black Bee. The German.or black bee is the variety best known, as through all the ages it has been most widely distributed. The name German refers to locality, while the name black is a misnomer, as the bee isa gray-black. The queen, and, ina less degree, the drones, are darker, while the legs and under- surface of the former are brown, or copper colored, and of the latter light-gray. The tongue of the black worker I have found, by repeated dissections and comparisons: made both by myself and by my pupils, is shorter than that of the Italian worker, and generally less hairy. The black bees have been known no longer than the Italians, as we find the latter were known both to Aristotle, the fourth century B.C., and to Virgil, the great Roman poet, who sung of the variegated golden bee, the first century B.C.; and we can only account for the wider distribution of the German bee by considering the more vigorous pushing habits of the Germanic races,. who not only over-ran and infused life into Southern Europe, but have vitalized all chrtstendom. Ligurian or Italian Bee. The Italian bee is characterized as a variety, not only by difference of color, habits, and activity, but also by possessing a little longer tongue. These bees were first described as distinct from the German race by Spinola, in 1805, who gave the name Ligurian bee, which name prevails in Europe. The name comes from a province of Northern Italy, north of the Ligurian Gulf, or Gulf of Genoa. This region is shut off from Northern Europe by the Alps, and thus these bees were kept apart from the Geta bees, and in warmer, more genial Italy, was developed a distinct race, our beautiful Italians. In 1843, Von Baldenstein procured a colony of these bees, which he had previously observed as peculiar, while stationed as a military captain in Italy. He published his experience ~ 36 The Italian Race. in 1848, which was read by Dzierzon, who became interested, and through him the Italian became generally introduced into Germany. In 1859, six years after Dzierzon’s first importa- tion, the Italian variety was introduced into England by Neighbour, the author of the valuable treatise already referred to. The same year, Messrs. Wagner and Colvin imported the Italians from Dzierzon’s apiary into America; and in 1860, Mr. 8. P. Parsons brought the first colonies that were imported direct from Italy. The Italian worker is quickly distinguished by the bright- yellow rings at the base of the abdomen. If the colony is Abdomen of Italian Worker. pure, every bee will show three of these golden girdles. The two first segments or rings of the abdomen, except at their posterior border, and also the base or anterior border of the third, will be of this orange-yellow-hue. The rest of the back or dorsal surface will be much as in the German race. Under- neath, the abdomen, except for a greater or less distance at the tip, will also be yellow, while the same color appears more or less strongly marked on the legs. The workers have longer ligule or tongues (Fig. 22, t) than the German race, and their tongues are also a little more hairy. They are also more active, and less inclined to sting. The queen has the entire base of her abdomen, and sometimes nearly the whole of it, orange- yellow. The variation as to amount of color in the queens is Cuprian and Syrian Bees. 37 quite striking. Sometimes very dark queens are imported right from the Ligurian hills, yet all the workers will wear the badge of purity—the three golden bands. . The drones are quite variable. Sometimes the rings and patches of yellow will be very prominent, then, again, quite indistinct. But the under side of the body is always, so far as I have observed, mainly yellow. A variety of our Italian bees which has the rows of white hairs (Fig. 6, J, K, L, M) unusually distinct is being sold in the United States under the name of Albinos. They are not a distinct race. In fact, I have otten noticed among Italians the so-called Albinos. THE.SYRIAN AND CYPRIAN RACES. Through the enterprise of Messrs. D. A. Jones and Frank Benton, we now have these races in our country, and have proved ‘the truth of the assertion of noted European apiarists, that the Cyprian is a distinct race of bees. ' Mr. Benton, than whom no one is better fitted to express a correct opinion, thinks that the Cyprian bees are the offspring of the Syrian. This opinion is strengthened by the close resemblance of the three races, and by the fact that migrations of all kinds have gone westward. A similar argument would make it presumable that the Cyprians gave rise to the Italians. The Cyprian bees resemble the Italians very closely. They may be distinguished by the bright leather-colored lunule which tips their thorax posteriorly, and by the fact that the under side of their bodies is yellow to the tip. They are more active than are the Italians, and the queens are more prolific. The good qualities of the Italians seem all to be exaggerated in the Cyprian, except the trait of amiability. The Cyprian bees are second only to the Egyptian in irritability. That they will become less cross with handling is to be expected. The Syrian bees are a very well marked race. The Syrian queens are remarkably uniform. Their abdomens above are, like the little A. Indica, beautifully banded with yellow and black. They are very quick and remarkably prolific. They do not cease laying even when the honey flow ceases. The workers closely resemble those of the Italian race, only that they are more yellow beneath, and when first from the cells, or a hatched, they are very dark, owing to the fact that the 38 Races of Bees. body rings seem pushed together. From the admirable way in which they defend their hives against robbers, the ease with which they are shaken from the combs, their great activity, their great tendency to remain in the hive on very windy days, the wonderful fecundity of the queen, her persistence in laying during a dearth of nectar secretion, and their great superiority for queen rearing, I feel sure that these bees are a very great acquisition to American apiculture, and I believe are the best bees that have as yet been domesticated. I have now tried these Syrian bees for three years, and have found them gentle and easy to handle. My thirty students went among them freely last summer, handling them with no protection, and one of our students, who had never handled bees before in his life, took all of the honey away from them in the fall, and received almost no stings. The comb-honey of Syrians is said to have very thin capping, and so not to be salable. I have not observed this peculiarity. OTHER RACES. The Egyptian bees are very yellow, intensely cross, and frequently have fertile workers. These are probably the bees which are famous in history, as having been moved up and down the Nile, in rude boats or rafts, as the varying periods of nectar-secreting bloom seemed to demand. The heath bees of Northern Germany are much like the common German bees, of which they are a variety, except that they are far more inclined to swarm. The Carniolan bees of South-western Austria are like the heath variety, but are specially noted for their very gentle dispositions. Some European bee-keepers claim that this race or variety is much superior to the common German bees. The Hungarian bees are longer than the typical German race, and are covered with gray hairs. During the poor season of 1875 m Europe, these bees, like the Carniolans, were found superior even to the Italians. The beautiful Dalmatian bees are slim, wasp-like, and very black. The rings of their abdomens are banded with lightish yellow. Their honey is even more white and beautiful than that of the German race. Some of the best European bee-keepers claim that they are superior to the Italian bees. “Akin to the Dalmatian bees are the Herzegovin- ian variety, which comes from the mountainous region of Eu- Bibliography. | 39 ropean Turkey bordering on the Adriatic Sea. a7 Longevity and Function of Queen. 17 they rear a new queen, before all the worker-eggs are gone, and then destroy the old one. It sometimes happens, though rarely, that a fine-looking queen, with full-formed ovaries and large spermatheca well- filled with male fluid, will deposit freely, but none of the eggs will hatch. Readers of bee-papers know that I have frequent- ly received such for dissection. The first I ever got was a remarkably fine looking Italian, received from the late Dr. Hamlin, of Tennessee. All such queens that I have examined seem perfect, even though scrutinized with a high power ob- jective. We can only say that the egg is at fault, as fre- quently transpires with higher animals, even to the highest. These females are barren; through some fault with the ovaries, the eggs grown therein are sterile. To detect just what is the trouble with the egg is a very difficult problem, if it is capable of solution at all. I have tried to determine the ultimate cause, but without success.. The function of the queen is simply to lay eggs, and thus keep the colony populous, and this she does with an energy that is fairly startling. A good queen in her best estate will lay two or three thousand eggsaday. I have seen a queen in my oberving hive lay for some time at the rate of four eggs per minute, and have proved by actual computation of brood cells that a queen may lay over three thousand eggs in a day. lLangstroth and Berlepsch both saw queens lay at the rate of six eggs a minute. ‘The latter had a queen that, laid three thousand and twenty-one eggs in twenty-four hours, by actual count, and in twenty days she laid fifty-seven thou- sand. This queen continued prolific for five years, and must have laid, says the Baron, at a low estimate more than 1,300,- 000 eggs. Dzierzon says queens may lay 1,000,000 eggs, and I think these authors have not exaggerated. Yet, with even these figures as an advertisement, the queen bee cannot boast of superlative fecundity, as the queen white-ant—an insect closely related to the bees in habits, though not in structure, as the white-ants are lace-wings and belong to the sub-order Neuroptera, which includes our day-flies, dragonflies, ete.— is known to lay over 80,000 eggs daily. Yet this poor help- less thing, whose abdomen is the size of a man’s thumb and composed almost wholly of eggs, while the rest of her body is not larger than the same in our common ants, has no other 73. Feeundity of Queen. amusement; she cannot walk; she cannot even feed herself, or care for her eggs. What wonder then that she should attempt big things in the way of egg-laying? She has noeaige else to do, or to feel proud of. Different queens vary as much in fecundity a as do different breeds of fowls. Some queens are so prolific that they fairly de- mand hives of India rubber to accommodate them, keeping their hives gushing with bees and profitable activity ; while others are so inferior that the colonies make a poor, sickly effort to survive at alf, and usually succumb early, before those ad-— verse circumstances which are ever waiting to confront all life on the globe. The activity of the queen is governed largely by the activity of the workers. The queen will either lay sparingly, or stop altogether, in the interims of storing honey, while, on the other hand, she is stimulated to lay to her utmost capacity when all is life and activity in the hive. This refusal-to lay when nectar is wanting does not hold trie, apparently, with the Cyprian and the Syrian bees. It would seem that the queen either reasons from conditions, is taught by instinct, or else that without her volition the general activity of the worker-bees stimulates the ovaries, how we know not, to-grow more eggs. We know that sucha stimulus is born of desire, in case of the high-holder already referred to. That the queen may have control of the activity of, her ovaries, either directly or indirectly, through reflex nervous action induced by the general excitement of the bees, which always follows active storing, is not only possible but is quite likely. The old poetical notion that the queen is the revered and admired sovereign of the colony, whose pathway is ever lined by obsequious courtiers, whose person is ever the recipient of loving caresses, and whose will is law in this bee-hive king- dom, controlling all the activities inside the hive and leading the colony whithersoever it may go, is unquestionably mere fiction. In the hive, as in the world, individuals are valued for what they are worth. The queen, as the most important individual, is regarded with solicitude, and her removal or loss is noted with consternation, as the welfare of the colony is _ threatened; yet, let the queen become useless, and she is despatched with the same absence of emotion that charac- terizes the destruction of the drones when they have become The Drones. 79 supernumeraries. It is very doubtful if emotion and ‘senti- mentality are ever moving forces among the lower animals. There are probably certain natural principles that govern in the economy of the hive, and anything that conspires against, or tends to intercept, the action of these principles, becomes an enemy to the bees. All are interested, and doubtless more united than is generally believed, in a desire to promote the free action of these principles. No doubt the principle of an- tagonism among the various bees has been overrated. Even "the drones, when they are being killed off in the autumn, make a sickly show of defense, as much as to say, the welfare of the colony demands that such worthless vagrants should be exterminated. The statement that there is often serious antagonism between the queen and workers, as to the destruc- tion or preservation of inchoate queens, yet in the cell, is a matter which may well be investigated. It is most probable that what tends most for the prosperity of the colony is well understood by all, and without doubt there is harmonious action among all the denizens of the hive to foster that which - will advance the general welfare, or to make war on whatever may tend to interfere with it. If the course of any of the bees seems wavering and inconsistent, we may rest assured that circumstances have changed, and that could we perceive the bearing of all the surrounding conditions, all would appear consistent and harmonious. ~ THE DRONES. These are the male bees, and are generally found in the hive only from May to November; though they may remain all winter, and are not infrequently absent during the sum- mer. ‘Their presence or absence depends on the present and prospective condition of the colony. If they are needed, or likely to be needed, then they are present. There are in nature several hundred in each colony. The number may and should be greatly reduced by the apiarist. The drones (Fig. 19) are shorter than the queen, being less than three- fourths of an inch in length, are more robust and bulky than either the queen or workers, and are easily recognized when flying by their loud, startling hum. As in other societies, the least useful make the most noise. This loud hum is caused by the less rapid vibration of their large, heavy wings. Their 80 Description of Drones. flight is more heavy and lumbering than that of the workers. Their ligula, labial palpi and maxille—like the same in the queen bee—are short, while their jaws (Fig. 24, a) possess the rudimentary tooth, and are much the same in form as those of the queen, but are heavier, though not so strong as those of the workers. Their eyes (Fi ig. 4) are very prominent, meet above, and thus the simple eyes are thrown forward. Their posterior legs are convex on the outside (Fig. 20), so, like the queens, they have no pollen baskets. The drones are without the defensive organ, having no sting, while their ~ special sex-organs (Fig. 12) are not unlike those of other insects, and have already been sufficiently described. | Bie. 20. Drone Bee, magnified. Part of Leg of Drone, magnified. t—Tibia. p—Broadened tibia and basal tarsus. ts—Joints of Tarsus. . ce—Claws. : It was discovered by Dzierzon, in 1845, that the drones hatch from unimpregnated eggs. This strange phenomenon, | Drones from Unimpregnated Eggs. 81 seemingly so incredible, is, as has been shown in speaking of the queen, easily proved and beyond question. These eggs may come from an unimpregnated queen, a fertile worker— which will soon be described—or an impregnated queen who may voluntarily prevent impregnation. It is asserted by some that the workers can change a worker egg to a drone egg at will. When the workers are able to abstract the sperm cells, which are so small that we can only see them by using a high power microscope, then we may expect to see wheat turn to chess. Such eggs will usually be placed in the larger hori- zontal cells (Fig. 31, a), in manner already described. As stated by Bevan, the drone feeds six and a half days as a larva, before the cell is capped. The capping of the drone-cells is very convex, and projects beyond the plane of the same in worker-cells, so that the drone brood is easily distinguished. from worker, and from the darker color—the wax being thicker — and less pure—the capping of both drone and worker brood- cells-enables us easily to distinguish them from honey-cells. In twenty-four days from the laying of the eggs, the drones come forth from the cells. Of course, variation of tempera- ture and other conditions, as variable amount of: diet, may slightly retard or advance the development of any brood, in the different stages. The drones—in fact all bees—when they first emerge from the cells, are gray, soft, and appear gener- ally unsophisticated. Just what the longevity of the male-bee is, I am unable to state. It is probable, judging from analogy, that they live till accident, the worker bees, or the, performance of their natural function causes their death. ‘The worker-bees may kill off the drones at any time, which they do by constantly biting and worrying them. They may also destroy the drone- brood. It is not very rare to see workers carrying out imma- ture drones even in mid-summer. At the same time they may destroy inchoate queens. Such action is prompted by a sudden check in the yield of honey, and in case of drones is only com- mon at the close of the season. The bees seem very cautious and far-sighted. If the signs of the times presage a famine, they stay all proceedings looking to the increase of colonies. On the other hand, unlimited honey, rapid increase ef brood, crowded quarters—whatever the age of the queen—are sure to bring many of the male bees, while any circumstances that 6 82 Longevity and Function of Drones. indicate a need of drones in the near future, will prevent their destruction even in late autumn. ; The function of the drones is solely to impregnate the queen, though when present they may add animal heat. That their nutrition is active, is suggested by the fact that, upon dissec- tion, we always find their capacious stomachs filled with honey. Impregnation of the queen always takes place, as before stated, while on the wing, outside the hive, usually during the heat of a warm sunshiny day. After mating, the drone organs adhere to the queen, and may be seen hanging to her for some hours. The copulatory act is fatal to the drone. By holding a drone in the hand, the ejection of the sex-organs is often produced, and is always followed by immediate death. As the queen only meets a single drone, and that only once, it might be asked why nature was so improvident as to decree hundreds of drones to an apiary or colony, whereas a score would suffice as well. Nature takes cognizance of the importance of the queen, and as she goes forth amidst the myriad dangers of the outer world, it is safest and best that her stay abroad be not protracted, that the experience be not repeated, and, especially, that her meeting a drone be not delayed. Hence the super- abundance of drones—especially under natural conditions, isolated in forest homes, where ravenous birds are ever on the alert for insect game—is most wise and provident. Nature is never ‘‘ penny wise and pound foolish.” In our apiaries the need is wanting, and the condition, as it exists in nature, is not enforced. The fact that parthenogenesis prevails in the production of the drones, has led to the theory that from a pure queen, however mated, must ever come a pure drone. My own ex- perience and observation, which I believe are those of all apiarists, have confirmed this theory. Yet, if the impure mating of our cows, horses, and fowls, renders the females of mixed blood ever afterward, as is believed and taught by many who would seem most competent to judge—though I must say I am somewhat skeptical in the matter, then we must look closely as to our bees, for certainly, if a mammal, and especially a fowl, is tainted by impure mating, then we may expect the same of insects. In fowls such influence, if it exists, must come simply from the presence in the female generative organs of the sperm-cells, or spermatozoa, and in Worker-Bees. 83 mammals, too, there is little more than this, for though they are viviparous, so that the union and contact of the offspring and mother seem very intimate. during fetal development, . yet there is no intermingling of blood, for a membrane ever separates that of the mother from that of the fetus, and only the nutritious and waste elements pass from one to the other. To claim that the mother is tainted through the circulation, is like claiming that the same result would follow her inhaling the breath of her progeny after birth. If such taint is pro- duced, it probably comes through the power of a cell to change those cells contiguous to it. That cells have such power is proved every day in case of wounds, and the spread of any disease. I can only say, that I believe this whole matter is - still involved in doubt, and still needs more careful, scientific and prolonged observation. THE NEUTERS, OR WORKER-BEES. These, called ‘‘the bees” by Aristotle, and even by Wild- man and Bevan, are by far the most numerous individuals of the hive—there being from 15,000 to 40,000 in every good colony. Ii is possible for a colony to be even much more populousthan this. (Lubbock says that there are often 50,000 worker-ants in a nest.) These are also the smallest bees of the colony, as they measure but little more than one-half of an inch in length (Fig. 21). We, PAL, Worker- Bee, magnified. The workers—as taught by Schirach, and proved by Mlle. Jurine, of Geneva, Switzerland, who, at the requestof Huber, sought for and found, by aid of her microscope, the abortive ovaries—are undeveloped females. Rarely, and probably very rarely except when a colony is long or often queenless, as is frequently true of our nuclei, these bees are so far developed 84 Fertile Workers. as to produce eggs, which, of course, would always be drone eggs. Such workers—known as ‘‘ fertile”—were first noticed by Riem, while Huber saw one in the act of egg-laying. Paul L. Viallon and others have seen the same thing often. Several fertile workers, sent me by Mr. Viallon, were examin- ed and the eggs and ovaries were plainly visible, though no spermatheca was to be seen. Except in the power to pro- duce eggs, they seem not unlike the other workers. Huber supposed that these were reared in cells contiguous to royal cells, and thus received roya] food by accident. The fact, as stated by Mr. Quinby, that these occur in colonies where queen-larvee were never reared is fatal to the above theory. Langstroth and Berlepsch thought that thesebees, while larve, were fed, though too sparingly, with the royal aliment, by bees in need of a queen, and hence the accelerated develop- ment. Such may be the true explanation. Yet if, as some apiarists aver, these appear where no brood has been fed, and so must be common workers, changed after leaving the cell, as the result of a feltneed, then we must conclude that develop- ment and growth—as with the high-holder—spring from de- sire. The generative organs are very sensitive, and exceed- ingly susceptible to impressions, and we may yet have much to learn as to the delicate forces which will move them to growth and activity. Though these fertile workers are a poor substitute for a queen, as they are incapable of producing any bees but drones, and are surely the harbingers of death and ex- tinction to the colony, yet they seem to satisfy the workers, for usually the workers will not brook the presence of a queen when a fertile worker is in the hive, nor will they suffer the existence in the hive of a queen-cell, even though capped. They seem to be satisfied, though they have very slight reason to be so. These fertile workers lay indifferently in large or small cells— ~ often place several eggs in a single cell, and show their in- — capacity in various ways. Fertile workers seem to appear more quickly and in greater abundance in colonies of Cyprian and Syrian bees, after they become hopelessly queen- less, than in Italian colonies. The maxille and labium of the worker bee are much elongated (Fig. 22). The maxille (Fig. 22, A, ma, ma) are deeply grooved, and are hinged to the head by strong chiti- nous rods (Fig. 22, A, ¢, c, St, St), to which are attached the Tongue of a Worker Bee. 85 muscles which move these parts. The gutter-like extremities (Fig. 22, A, /, 1) are stiffened with chitine, and, when approx- IRIRER ee GAAAOMLLE VRE i ae Mate LEGS, CSE EER) = SRRLAARY LELUNILLL LY IAS S\N} prow fel’ B Tongue of a Worker-Bee, much magnified. A—Maxillx and Jabium. mx, mz—Maxillx. mp,mp—Max. palpi. k, k—Labia palpi. ¢, c—Cardos. o—Sub mentum. 4 t—Tongue. St, St—Stipes. m—Mentum. f—Funnel. 1, i—Laciniz. Pp, p—Paraglosss. B—Ligula, with sack distended. . s—Colorless membrane. f—Funnel. R—Tubular rod. ‘ C—Cross-section of ligula. S—Sheath. R—Tubular rod. s, s—Colorless membrane. (The above fig. is drawn to same scale as Fig. 17.) a ) 86 Mouth Parts of Workers. imated, form a tube which is continued by a membrane to the mouth opening of the pharynx, just between the bases of the jaws. This tube forms the largest channel through which nectar passes to the pharynx. The labium varies in length from .23 to .27 of an inch. By the sub-mentum (Fig. 22 A, o) and two chitinous rods (Fig. 22, A, 6, 6) it is hinged to the maxille. The base or mentum (Fig. 22 A, m) is tubu- lar. The lower part of the tube is thick with chitine, the upper part membranous. This tube opens into the pharynx and extends into the tengue. From the mentum extend the tongue or ligula (Figure 22, A, t), the paraglosse (Fig. 22, A, p, p), Whose sack-like bases connect with the tube of the mentum, and the labial palpi (Fig 22, k, k), which, in arrange- ment, form and function, resemble the maxille., The tongue consists of an annulated sheath (Fig. 22, B and C, S) which is slitted along its under side to near the end. This is very hairy. Within this is a tubular rod (Fig. 22, B, and C, R) which is also slitted along its under surface. This extends beyond the sheath, where it becomes an imperfect funnel (Fig. 22, f). A thin colorless membrane (Fig. 22, C, s, s) connects the slitted margins of the rod with those of the sheath. This, with the sheath, forms a sack which may be distended (Fig. 22, B) with nectar, asit has connection with the tube of the mentum, though it is closed anteriorly. The tubular rod connects with the sack and with the tube of the mentum at the base of the ligula. While the bee is sipping liquid food, the tongue alternately pushes out and draws back for a short distance, which motion is effected by muscles at its base. This may be analogous to swallowing. When not in use the tongue is partially drawn into the mentum, and with the labial palpi and maxille is bent under the head. When bees can get at nectar in quantity, they suck it through the extemporized tubes formed by approximating the maxille and labial palpi. Deep down in flowers they only sip through the funnel and tubular rod. When a liquid is spread out thin, I think they lap or wipe it up, when it passes through the slit into the tubular rod, and thence to the pharynx. Connected with the tube in the mentum, and thus with the mouth, is a tube which leads to two pairs of glands Salivary Glands and Jaws. ~ 87 A B oS mo “ih ayo rennin, Q > 09; a Ssqgor on & OOO B—Part of glands show- ing Epithelial cells. A—Glands. g—Thoracic glands. d—Duct of thoracic glands. e—Ducts of cephalic glands. sm—Sub mentum. b—Opening to mouth. m—Mentum. a—Opening to paraglosse. (Fig. 23, A), one pair in the head, the other in the thorax. These glands are compound, and are lined with epithelium (Fig. 23 B). This apparatus was first discovered by Mr. Justin Spaulding, from whose article I get my diagram. From these glands comes the so-called salivary juice, which 88 Jaws of Drone and Worker. aids in kneading wax, etc., as already described. It also probably aids in modifying the sugar while the nectar is in the bee’s stomach, and, as I have shown elsewhere, in push- ing out the tongue. This is done by crowding the liquid into © the closed tubular sheath (Fig. 22, C, 8). The jaws (Fig. 24, ¢) are very strong, without the rudimen- tary tooth, while the cutting edge is semi-conical, so that when the jaws are closed they form an imperfect cone. Thus these are well formed to cut comb, knead wax, and perform their various functions. Their eyes (Fig. 5) are like those of the queen, while their wings, like those of the drones, attain the end of the body. These organs (Fig. 3), as in all insects with rapid flight, are slim and strong, and, by their more or less _ rapid vibrations, give the variety of tone which characterizes their hum. Thus we have the rapid movements and high pitch of anger, and the slow motion and mellow note ef con- tent and joy. a—Jaw of drone. b—Jaw of queen. c—Jaw of worker, On the outside of the posterior tibia and basal tarsus is a cavity, made more deep by its rim of hairs, known as the pollen basket (Fig. 25, p). In these pollen baskets is compacted the pollen, which is gathered by the mouth organs, and carried back by the four anterior legs. Opposite the pollen baskets are regular rows of golden hairs (Fig. 26, e), which probably aid in storing and compacting the pollen balls. ; On the anterior legs of the workers, between the femur and tibia, isa curious notch (Fig. 27, C) covered by aspur (Fig. 27, B). For several years this has caused speculation among my students, and has attracted the attention of observing apiarists. Some have supposed that it aided bees in reaching deeper down into tubular flowers; others, that it was used in scrap- ing off pollen, and still others, that it enabled bees to hold on Legs of Workers. 89 Fig. 25. Fie. 26. Outside. Inside. it INS, Hh Hig mie N Vy, wy} yi) eee Part of Posterior Leg of Worker, much magnified. é—Tibia. . /—Rim of hairs. p—Pollen basket. ¢s—Joint of tarsi. e—Claws. e—Rows of hairs. when clustering. The first two suggestions may be correct, though other honey and pollen-gathering bees do not possess it. The latter function is performed by the claws at the end of the tarsi. The worker bees possess an organ of defense, which they Anterior Leg of Worker, magnijied. are" quickfto use if occasion demands. This organ is straight, not curved as is the sting of the queen. The poison, which is emitted in stinging and which causes the severe pain, is an 90 Sting of the Bee. acid fluid, which is secreted by a double gland, and stored in a muscular sack (Fig. 28, C), which is about the size of a flax- seed. This sack is connected by a tube (Fig. 28, M) with the reservoir of the sting. The sting is a triple organ consisting of three sharp hollow spears, which are very smooth and of exquisite polish. If we magnify the most beautifully wrought Fie. 28. 0) ie | rT’ Sting with Lancets drawn one side, cross-section of Sting,and a Lancet, much magnified. O—Poison sack. M—Tube from sack to reservoir. 8—Reservoir. A—Awil. B, B —Lancets. E, E—Valves. U, U—Barbs. | 0, O—Openings from hollowin H—Hollow in awl. I, I—Hollows in lancets. lancets. T, T—Ridges in awl. T’—Groove in lancet. steel instrument, it looks rough and unfinished; while the parts of the sting, however highly magnified, are smooth and perfect. The true relation of the three parts of the sting was accurately described by Mr. J. R. Bledsoe, in the American Sting of the Bee. 91 Bee Journal, vol. 6, page 29. The action in stinging and the method of extruding the poison, are well described in a beau- tifully illustrated article by Mr. J. D. Hyatt, in Vol. I, No. 1, of American Quarterly Microscopical Journal. The larger of the three awls (Fig. 28, A) usually, though incorrectly, styled a sheath, has a large cylindrical reservoir at its base (Fig. 28, S) which is entirely shut off from the hollow (Fig. 28, H ) in the more slender part of the awl, which latter serves no purpose whatever, except to give strength and lightness. The reservoir connects at its base with the poison sack, and below, by a slit, with the opening (Fig. 28, ) made by the approximation of the three awls. The other two awls (Fig. 28, B, B), which we will call lancets, are also hollow (Fig. 28. I, I). They are barbed (Fig. 28, U, U) much like a fish-hook, except that there are eight or ten barbs, instead of one. Five of the barbs are large and strong. These barbs catch hold and cause the extraction of the sting when the organ is used. Near the base of each lancet is a beautiful valvular organ (Fig. 28, H, E). The hollow inside the lancets (Fig. 28, J, I), unlike that of the awl, is useful. It opens anteriorly in front of the first six barbs (Fig. 28, 0, 0), as shown by Mr. Hyatt, and posteriorly just back of the valves into the central tube (Fig. 28, N), and through it into the reservoir (Fig. 28, S). The poison then can pass either through the hollow lancets (Fig. 28, J, J) or though the cen- tral tubes (Fig. 28, N), between the three spears. The lancets are held to the central piece by projections (Fig. 28, T, T) from the latter, which fit into corresponding grooves (Fig. 28, 7’) of the lancets. In the figure the lancets are moved one side to show the barbs and valves; normally they are held close together, and thus form the tube (Fig. 28, N)— The parts of the sting are moved by muscles connecting the basis of the parts and extending from the parts to the large chitinous supports (Fig. 28, d). The fact that muscles connect the various parts, and the muscular character of the sack, explain how a sting may act, even after the bee is apparently lifeless, or, what is even more wonderful, after it has been extracted from the bee. - The barbs hold one lancet as a fulerum for the other, and so long as the muscles are excitable, so long is a thrust possible. Thus I have known 92 Worker Larva: ‘a bee, dead for hours, to sting. A wasp, dead more than a day, with the abdomen cut off, made a painful thrust, and stings extracted for several minutes could still bring tears by their entering the flesh. In stinging, the awl first pierces, then the lancets follow. As the lancets push in, the valves close the central tube, when the poison is driven through the lancets themselves and comes out by the openings near the barbs (Fig. 28, 0, 0). The drop of poison which we see on the sting when the bee is slightly irritated, as by jarring the hive on a cold day, is pushed through the central opening - by the muscular contraction of the sack attendant upon the elevation of the abdomen and extrusion of the sting. The young microscopist will find it difficult to see the barbs, as it is not easy to turn the lancets so that they will show. Pa- tience and persistence, however, will bring success. The honey-stomach, or crop, in the workers (Fig. 11, 0) is well developed, though no larger than that of drones. Whether it is more complex i in structure or not, I cannot state. The workers hatch from impregnated eggs, which can only come from a queen that has met a drone, and are always laid in the small, horizontal cells (Fig. 31, ¢). These eggs are in no wise different, so far as we can see, from those which are laid in the drone or queen-cells. All are cylindrical and slightly curved (Fig. 29, a, b) and are fastened by one end to the bottom of the cell, and -a little to one side of the centre. As in other animals, the eggs from different queens vary preceptibly in size. As already shown, these are voluntarily fertilized by the queen as she extrudes therh, preparatory to fastening them in the cells. These eggs, though small—one-sixteenth of an inch long, may be easily seen ‘by holding the comb so that the light will shine into the cells. With experience they are detected almost at once, but I have often found it quite dif- ficult to make the novice see them, though very plainly visible to my experienced eye. The egg hatches in three days. The larva (Fig. 29, d, e, f), incorrectly called grub, maggot—and even caterpillar, by Hunter—is white, footless, and lies coiled up in the cell till near maturity. It is fed a whitish fluid, though this seems to be given grudgingly, as the larva never seems to have more than it wishes to eat, so it is fed quite frequently by the mature workers. It would seem that the workers fear an a nl ad PTs atta ; o3 Development of the Bee. — 93 Fig. 29: Development of the Bee. excessive development, which, as we have seen, is most mis- chievous and ruinous, and work to prevent the same by a mean and meager diet. The food is composed of pollen and honey. Certainly of pollen, for, as I have repeatedly proved, without pollen no brood will be reared.’ Probably some honey is incorporated, as sugar is an essential in the nutrition of all animals, and we could hardly account for the excessive amount of honey consumed, while breeding, by the extra amount consumed by the bees consequent upon the added exercise required in caring for the brood. M. Quinby, Doo- little, and others, say water is also an element of this food. But bees often breed very rapidly when they do not leave the hive at all, and so water, other than that contained in the honey, etc., cannot be added. The time when bees seem to need water, and so repair to the rill and the pond, is during the heat of spring and summer, when they are most busy. May this not. be quaffed for the most part to slake their own thirst ? In eight days from the laying of the egg, the worker cell, like the queen cell, is capped over by the worker-bees. This cap is composed of pollen and wax, so it is darker, more 94 Longevity and Function of Workers. porous, and more easily broken than: the caps of the honey- cells; it is also more convex (Fig. 29, k). The larva, now full grown, having lapped up all the food placed before it, surrounds itself with a silken cocoon, so excessively thin that it requires a great number to appreciably reduce the size of the cells. These always remain in the cells after the bees escape, and give to old comb its dark color and great strength. Yet they are so thin that cells used even for a dozen years, seem to serve as well for brood as when first used. In three days the insect assumes the pupa state (Fig. 29, g). In all insects the ‘spinning of the cocoon seems an exhaustive pro- cess, for so far as I have observed, and that is quite at length, this act is succeeded by a variable period of repose. The pupa is also called a nymph. By cutting open cells it is easy to determine just the date of forming the cocoon, and of changing to the pupa state. The pupa looks like the mature bee with all its appendages bound close about it, though the color is still whitish. In twenty-one days the bees emerge from the cells. The old writers were quite mistaken in thinking that the advent of these was an occasion of joy and excitement among the bees. ‘All apiarists have noticed how utterly unmoved the bees are, as they push over and crowd by these new-comers in the most heedless and discourteous manner imaginable. Wildman tells of seeing the workers gathering pollen and honey the same day that they came forth from the cells. This idea is quickly disproved if we Italianize black bees. We know that for some days these young bees do not leave the hive at all, except in case of swarming, when bees even too young to fly will attempt to go with the crowd. These young bees, like young drones and queens, are much lighter colored when they first leave the cell. The worker-bees never attain a great age. Those reared in autumn may live for eight or nine months, and if in queenless stocks, where little labor is performed, even longer; while those reared in spring will wear out in three months, and when most busy will often die in from thirty to forty-five days. None of these bees survive the year through, so there is a limit to the number which may exist in a colony. As a good queen will lay, when in her best estate, three thousand eggs daily, and as the workers live from one to three months, it might Function of Workers. 95 seem that forty thousand was too small a figure for the num- ber of workers. Without doubt a greater number is possible. That it is rare is not surprising, when we remember the numerous accidents and vicissitudes that must ever attend the individuals of these populous communities. _ The function of the worker-bees. is to do all the manual labor of the hives. They secrete the wax, which forms in small scales. (Fig. 30, w) under the over-lapping rings under the abdomen. I have found these wax-scales on both old and. young. According to Fritz Miller, the admirable German observer, so long a traveler in South America, the bees of the genus Melipona secrete the wax on the back. The young bees build the comb, ventilate the hive, feed the larvee and cap the cells. The older bees—for, as readily seen in Italianizing, the young bees do not go forth for the first two weeks—gather the honey, collect the pollen, or bee- bread as it is generally called, bring in the propolis or bee- glue, which is used to close openings and as a cement, supply the hive with water (?), defend the hive from all improper intrusion, destroy drones when their day of grace is past, kill and arrange for replacing worthless queens, destroy inchoate queens, drones, or even workers, if circumstances demand it, and lead forth a portion of the bees when the conditions impel them to swarm. When there are no young bees, the old bees will act as house-keepers and nurses, which they otherwise refuse to do. The young bees, on the other hand, will not go forth to glean, even though there be no old bees to do this necessary part of bee-duties. An indirect function of all the bees is to supply animal heat, as the very life of the bees requires that the temperature inside the hive be maintained at a rate consider- ably above freezing. In the chemical processes attendant upon nutrition, much heat is generated, which, as first shown by Newport, may be considerably augmented at the pleasure of the bees, by forced respiration. The bees, by a rapid vibration of their wings, have the power to ventilate their hives and reduce the temperature when the weather is hot. Thus they are able to moderate the heat of summer, and tem- per the cold of winter. 96 Swarming. : CHAPTER IIl. SWARMING, OR NATURAL METHODS OF IN- CREASE. The natural method by which an increase of colonies among bees is secured, is of great interest, and though it has been closely observed, and assiduously studied for a long period, and has given rise to theories as often absurd as sound, yet, even now, it is a fertile field for investigation, and will repay any who may come with the true spirit of inquiry, for there is much concerning it which is involved in mystery. Why do bees swarm at unseeming times? Why is the swarming spirit so excessive at times and so restrained at other seasons? These and other questions we are too apt to refer to erratic tendencies of the bees, when there is no question but that they follow naturally upon certain conditions, perhaps intricate and obscure, which it is the province of the investigator to dis- cover. Who shall be first to unfold the principles which govern these, as all other actions of the bees? In the spring or early summer, when the hive has become populous, and storing very active, the queen, as if conscious that a home could be overcrowded, and foreseeing such danger, commences to deposit drone-eggs in drone-cells, which the worker-bees, perhaps moved by like considerations, begin to construct, if they are not already in existence. In fact, drone comb is almost sure of construction at such times. No sooner is the drone brood well under way, than the large, awkward queen-cells are commenced, often to the number of ten or fif- teen, though there may be not more than three or four. The ‘Cyprian and Syrian bees often start from fifty to one hundred queen-cells. In these, eggs are placed, and the rich royal jelly added, and soon, often before the cells are even capped—and veru rarely before a cell is built, if the bees are crowded, the hives unshaded, the ventilation insufficient, or the honey-yield very bountiful—some bright day, usually about ten o'clock, after an unusual disquiet both inside and outside the hive, a large part of the worker-bees—being off duty for the day, and having previously loaded their honey-sacks—rush forth from the hive as if alarmed by the cry of fire, the queen among Swarming. 97 the number, though sne is by no means among the first, and frequently is quite late in her exit. It is often asserted that bees do no gathering on the day they swarm, previous to leav- ing the hive. Thisis nottrue. Mr. Doolittle thinks they are just as active as on other days. The assertion that bees always cluster on the outside preliminary to swarming, is not true. The crowded hive makes this common, though in a well managed apiary it is very infrequent. The bees, once started on their quest for a new home, after many uproarious gyrations about the old one, dart forth to alight upon some bush, limb, or fence, though in one case I knew the first swarm of bees to leave at once for parts unknown, without even waiting to cluster. After thus meditating for the space of from one to three hours, upon a future course, they again take wing and leave for their new home, which they have probably already sought out. Some suppose the bees look up a home before leaving the hive, while others claim that scouts are in search of one while the bees are clustered. The fact that bees take a right-line to _ their new home, and fly too rapidly to look as they go, would argue that a home is preémpted, at least, before the cluster is dissolved. The fact that the cluster remains sometimes for hours—even over night—and at other times for a brief period, would lead us to infer that the bees cluster while waiting for anew home to be found. Yet, why do bees sometimes alight _ after flying a long distance, as did a first swarm the past season upon our College grounds? Was their journey long, so that they must needs stop to rest, or were they flying at randoni, not knowing whither they were going? If for any reason the queen should fail to join the bees, and perhaps rarely when she is among them, they will, after having clustered, (they rarely fail to cluster) meee to shee old hone, The youngest bees will remain in the old hive, to which those bees which are abroad in quest of stores will return. The presence of young bees on the ground immediately after a swarm has issued—those with flight too feeble to join the rovers—will always mark the previous home of the emigrants. Soon, in seven or eight days, often later, if Italians, the first queen will come forth from her cell, and in two or three days she will, or may, lead a new colony forth; but before she does this, the peculiar note, known as the piping of the queen, 7 98 After-Swarms. may be heard. This piping sounds like ‘‘ peep,” ‘‘peep,” is shrill and clear, and can be plainly heard by placing the ear to the hive, nor would it be mistaken. It is followed by a lower, hoarser note, made by a queen still within the cell. This piping is best heard by placing the ear to the hive in the evening or early morning. If heard, we may stirely expect a swarm the day following, unless the weather is too unpleasant. Some have supposed that the ery of the liberated queen was that of hate, while that by the queen still imprisoned was either of enmity or fear. Never will an after-swarm leave, unless preceded by this peculiar note. At successive periods of one or two days, one, two, or even threé more colonies may issue from the old home. Mr. Langstroth knew five after-swarms to issue, and others have reported eight and ten. These last swarms will all be heralded by the piping of the queen. They will be less particular as to the time of day when they issue, as they have been known to leave before sun-rise, and even after sun-set.. The well-known apiarist, Mr. A. F. Moon, once knew a swarm to issue by moon-light. They will, as a rule, cluster farther from the hive. ‘The after-swarms are accompanied by the queen, and in case swarming is delayed may be attended by a plurality of queens. Berlepsch and. Langstroth each saw eight queens issue with a swarm, while others report even more. These virgin queens fly very rapidly, so the swarm will seem more active and definite in its course than will first swarms. The cutting short of swarming preparations before the — second, third, or even the first swarm issues, is by no means a rare occurrence. ‘This is effected by the bees destroying the queen-cells, and sometimes by a general extermination of the drones, and is generally to be explained by a cessation of the honey yield. It is commonly observed that while a moderate yield of honey is very provocative of swarming, a heavy flow seems frequently to absorb the entire attention of the bees, and so destroy the swarming impulse entirely. Cells thus destroyed are easily recognized, as they are torn open from the side and not cut back from the end. Swarming out at other times, especially in late winter and spring, is sometimes noticed by apiarists. This is due to famine, mice, or some other disturbing circumstance which makes the hive intolerable to the bees. Products of Bees. 99 CHAPTER LV. PRODUCTS OF BEES; THEIR ORIGIN ee SD. FUNCTION. * Among all insects, bees stand first in the variety of the useful products which they give us, and, next to the silk- moths, in the importance of these products. They seem the more remarkable and important, in that so few insects yield articles of commercial value. ‘True, the cochineal insect, a species of bark-louse, gives us an important coloring material ; the lac insect, of the same family, gives us the important element of our best glue—shellac ; ‘the blister-beetles afford an article prized by the physician, while we are indebted to one of the gall-flies for a valuable element of ink: but the honey- bee affords not only a delicious article of food, but also another article of no mean commercial rank, namely, wax. We will proceed to examine the various products which come from bees. HONEY. Of course the first product of bees, not only to attract atten- tion but also in importance, is honey. And what is honey? We can only say that it is a sweet substance gathered from flowers and other sources, by the bees. We cannot, therefore, give its chemical composition which would be as varied as the sources from which it comes. We cannot even call it a sugar, for it may be, and always is, composed of various sugars, and thus it is easy to understand why honey varies so much in richness, color, flavor, and effects on digestion. Nectar of flowers and honey are quite different. The former contains more water, is neutral instead of acid, and the sugars taken from the flowers are much modified while in the alimentary canal of the bee in transit from flower to comb. Nectar consists of sucrose or cane sugar from: twelve to fifteen per cent., and mellose, or uncrystallizable sugar ten per cent. The remainder is mostly water, though there is always a small amount of nitrogenous material. In honey the cane sugar is largely changed to a substance chemically like glucose: the mellose seems also somewhat modi- fied. There is a little mannite, probably the result of chemi- 100 - Character of Honey. cal change in the bee’s stomach. The acid condition of honey is plainly recognizable by the taste, as all lovers of honey. know. I have fed bees pure cane sugar, and when stored the late Prof. R. F. Kedzie found that much of this sugar was transformed in much the same way that the nectar is changed which is taken from the flowers. It is probable that the large compound racemose glands in the head and thorax of the bees (Fig. 23, a) secrete an abun- dant ferment which hastens these transformations which the sugars undergo while in the stomach of the bee. Probably the stomach juices also aid in these changes. Much of the water escapes after the honey is stored. The method of collecting honey has already been described. The principles of lapping and suction are both involved in the operation. When the stomach is full, the bee repairs.to the hive and: regurgitates its precious load, either giving it to the bees or storing it in the cells. Mr. Doolittle claims that the bees that gather give all their honey to the other bees, which latter store it in the cells. This honey remains for sometime un- capped that it may ripen, in which process the water is partially evaporated and the honey rendered thicker. If the honey remains uncapped, or is removed from the cells, it will generally granulate, if the temperature be reduced below 70°. Like many other substances, honey, if heated and sealed while hot, will not crystallize till it is unsealed. In case of granula- tion the sucrose and glucose crystallize in the mellose. Some honey, as that from the South and some from California, seems - to remain liquid indefinitely. Some kinds of our own honey erystallize much more readily than others. The only sure test of the purity of honey is that of the polariscope. This is not practical except in the hands of the physicist. ‘The most practi- cal test is that of granulation, though this is not wholly reliable. Granulated honey is almost certainly pure. Occasionally genu- ine honey refuses, even in a zero atmosphere, to crystallize. When there are no flowers, or when the flowers yield no sweets, the bees, ever desirous to add to their stores, frequently essay to rob other colonies, and often visit the refuse of cider mills, or suck up the oozing sweets of various plants or bark- lice, thus adding, may be, unwholesome food to their usually delicious and refined stores. It is a curious fact. that the ‘Secretion of Wax. 101 queen never lays her maximum number of eggs except when storing isgoing on. In fact, in the interims of honey-gather- ing, egg-laying not infrequently ceases altogether. The queen seems discreet, gauging the size of her family by the probable means of support. Again, in times of extraordinary yields of honey the storing is very rapid and the hive becomes so filled that the queen is unable to lay her full quota of eggs; in fact, I have seen the brood very much reduced in this way, which, of course, greatly depletes the colony. This might be called ruinous prosperity. The natural use of the honey is to furnish the mature bees with food and, when mixed with pollen, to form the diet of the young bees. WAX. The product of the bees second in importance, is wax. This is a solid, unctious substance, and is, as shown by its chemical composition, a fat-like material, though not, as some authors assert, the fat of bees. As already observed, this is a secretion formed in scales, the shape ofan irregular pentagon Fig. 30. ‘Wax Scales in situ, magnified. w—Wax-scale. (Fig. 30, w), underneath the abdomen. These scales are light- colored, very thin and fragile, and are secreted by and molded upon the membrane towards the body from the wax-pockets. Neighbour speaks of the wax oozing through pores from the stomach. This is not the case, but, like the synovial fluid about our own joints, it is formed by the secreting membrane, and does not pass through holes, as water through a sieve. There are four of these wax-pockets on each side, and thus there may be eight wax-scales on a bee at one time. This wax can be secreted by the bees when fed on pure sugar, as shown 102 Secretion of Wax. 2 by Huber, whose experiment I have verified. I removed all — ~honey and comb from my observing-hive, left the bees for twenty-four hours to digest all food which might be in their stomachs, and then fed pure sugar, which was better than honey, as Prof. R. F. Kedzie has shown by analysis that not only filtered honey, but even the nectar which he collected right from the flowers themselves, contains nitrogen. The ‘ bees commenced at once to build comb, and. continued for several days, so long as I kept them confined. This is as we should suppose; sugar contains hydrogen and oxygen in pro- portion to form water, while the third element, carbon, is in the same or about the same proportion as the oxygen. Now, ~ the fats usually contain little oxygen and a good deal of car- bon and hydrogen. Thus the sugar by losing some of its oxygen would contain the requisite elements for fat. It was found true in the days of slavery in the South that the negroes of Louisiana, during the gathering of the cane, would become very fat. They ate much sugar; they gained much fat. Now, wax is a fat-like substance, not that it is the animal fat of bees, as often asserted—in fact it contains much less hydrogen, as will be seen by the following formula from Hess: ORO, Fi sktvccovcssssiienss seoadcnesnangstdes>eassendensacsuecy meme sttrceeaataeeeee 7.00 MAI ONI 8. ooo ss sec lobedscocalicsbees ox ceudectcasecdeen ce acti eae ene 79.30 TTP OR OD sisis.cosdescccscesaSasateascesectcassaatecesceetsaca\tincnceeeaecetteeeeeens 13.20 —hbut it is a special secretion for a special purpose, and from its composition we should conclude that it might be secreted from a purely saccharine diet, and experiment confirms the con- clusion. It has been found that bees require-about twenty \ pounds of honey to secrete one of wax. The experiments of ; Mr. P. L. Viallon show this estimate of Huber to be too va great. My own experiments would sustain Huber’s statement. In these experiments the bees are confined, and go the conclu- 3 sions are to be received with caution. We cannot know how | much the results are changed by the abnormal condition in a which the bees are placed. That nitrogenous food is necessary, as claimed by Langstroth 4 and Neighbour, is not true. Yet, in the active season, when | muscular exertion is great, nitrogenous food must be impera- a tively necessary to supply the waste and give tone to the © body. Secretion of wax demands a healthy condition of the ea Second Story of Hive. 129 two-story hive, with the upper story (Fig. 41, 6) just like the lower (Fig. 41, ¢), this may join the lower by a miter-joint, while a cover (Fig. 41, a), two inches high, may join this with a similar joint. If the upper story shuts over the lower and rests on a shoulder (Fig. 38, f) it may still be made to take the same sized frame, by nailing pieces one-half an inch square to the corners, whose length shall equal the distance from the rabbet in the lower story to the bottom board. We then nail to these upright pieces, parallel to the rabbeted faces below, a three- eighths inch board as wide as the pieces are long. The top of these thin boards will take the place of the rabbet in the lower story. This style, which is adopted in the two-story hives as made by Mr. Langstroth (Fig. 36), will permit in the upper story the same frames as used in the lower story, while two more can be inserted. Upon this upper story a shallow cover will rest. Such covers, if desired, may be made roof-like Fie. 42. (Fig. 42), by cutting end pieces (Fig. 42, b) in form of the gable of a house. In this case there will be two slanting boards (Fig. 42, a, a), instead of one that is horizontal, to carry off the rain. The slanting boards should project at the ends (Fig. 42, d), for convenience in handling. In such covers we need thin, narrow ridge-boards (Fig. 42, c), to keep all perfectly dry. These covers look neat, are not so apt to check, and will-dry much quicker after a rain. : If we secure comb-honey in crates, and winter out-doors— in which case we shall need to protect in the Northern States— it will be convenient to have a box (Fig. 38) of the same general form as the main body of the hive, from six to eight inches deep, just large enough to set over the body of the hive and rest on shoulder-strips, and without top or bottom; this to have such a cover as just described. Such is the arrangement of the noted apiarist James Heddon, Southard and Ranney, of Kala- 9 130 Frames. midzoo, and many others, which, on the score of simplicity and convenience, has much to recommend it. Mr. Heddon makes his crate serve this purpose, and has his hives well shaded. In the above I have said nothing about porticos (Fig. 36). If hives are shaded as they should be, these are useless, and I believe that in no case will they pay. To be sure, they are nice for spider-webs, and’a shady place in which bees may cluster ; but such are inconvenient places to study the wondrous fabrics of the spider, even were he a friend of the bees, and the most successful apiarist will not force his bees to hang in idle clusters about the hive. Mr. George Grimm, however, thinks much of the portico. He practices moving his bees frequently, and in cool weather has to give no other ventilation than that secured by nailing wire gauze over the portico. THE FRAMES. The form and size of frames, though not quite as various as Fia. 43. _ 184 12 ‘ . . QUINBY. PS AMERICAN, See 17% ~) LANGSTROTH. « ADAIR, 19% CLOSED END QUINBY. [2 the persons who use them, are still very different (Fig. 43). Some prefer large frames. I first used the Quinby frame, and The Gallup frame. 131 afterward the Langstroth (Fig. 43). The advantage claimed for large frames ds that there are less to handle, and time is saved; yet may not smaller frames be handled so much more dexterously, especially if they are to be handled through all the long day, as to compensate, in part at least, for the num- - ber? ‘The advantage of the shallow frame is, as claimed, that the bees will go into boxes more readily; yet they are not con- sidered so safe for out-door wintering. This is the style recom- mended and used by Mr. Langstroth, which fact may account for its popularity in the United States. Another frame in common use, is one about one foot square. I use one eleven and one-fourth inches square. ‘The reasons that I prefer this form are, that the comb seldom breaks from the frame, the frames are convenient for nuclei and save the expense of con- structing extra nucleus hives, and these frames permit the most compact arrangement for winter and spring, and thus enable us to economize heat. By use of a division board, we ean, by using eight of these frames, occupy just a cubic foot of space in spring, and by repeated experiments I have found that a hive so constructed that the bees always cover the combs during the early cold weather, always gives the best results. Dr. Tinker, of Ohio, showed by ample statistics, that in the severe winter of 1882-3 the Gallup frame did prove by far the best. As the honey season comes on more can be added, till we have reached twelve, as many, I think, as will ever be needed for brood. This was the size of frame preferred by Mr. Gallup, and is the one used by Messrs. Davis and Doolittle, Dr. Tinker, and many others of our most successful apiarists. That this size is imperative is, of* course, not true; that it combines as many desirable points as any other, I ‘think is true. For apiarists who are not very strong, especially for ladies, it is beyond question superior to all others. That we shall ever have a uniform frame used by all apiarists, though exceedingly desirable, is too much to expect or even hope. I do not think that there is sufficient advantage in any form to warrant us to hold to it, if by yielding wecould secure this uniformity. As will be seen in the British Bee Journal, 1882, p. 243, our British brothers are striving for this, and have adopted a frame eight and one-half by fourteen inches. Our North American Association might move in the same direction. Nor do I think the form and size so material cA. 132 Frame-Making. to success as to make it generally desirable for the apiarist to change all his hives to secure a different style of frame. HOW TO CONSTRUCT THE FRAMES. In this description, I shall suppose that the frames desired are of the form and size (Fig. 44) which I use. It will be easy, for any who may desire, to change the form at pleasure. a RN SS N N | ¢ Frame, also Cross-Section of Top-Bar. For the top bar (Fig. 44, a) of the frame, use a triangular strip twelve and one-half inches long, with each face of the triangle one inch across. Seven-eighths of an inch from each end of this, form a shoulder, by sawing from one angle to- within three-eighths of an inch of the opposite face, so that when the piece is split out from the end, these projections shall be just three-eighths of an inch thick throughout. The top bar of the frame should be large and strong so as never to break or even bend when in use. For the side pieces (Fig. 44, b, b), take strips ten and three-fourths inches long, seven- eighths of an inch wide, and one-fourth of an inch thick. Tack with small brads the end of two of these strips firmly to_ the shoulder of the top-bar, taking pains that the end touches squarely against the projection. Now tack to the opposite ends or bottoms, the ends of a similar strip (Fig. 44, d), eleven and a-fourth inches long and one eighth of an inch thick. We shall thus haye a frame eleven and one-fourth inches square, outside measure. If comb-foundation is to be used, and certainly it will be by the enterprising apiarist, then the top bar (Fig. 45, a) should be twelve and one-half inches by three-eighths by one Frame-Making. 133 inch, with a rectangular, instead of a triangular, projection below (Fig. 45, 6), which should be one-fourth by one-eighth inch, -the longer diameter up and down. This should be entirely to one side of the center (Fig. 45, ¢), so that when the foundation is pressed against this piece it will hang exactly from the center of the top-bar. If preferred, the bottom of the frame (Fig. 45, e) need not be more than half as wide or thick as described above. Very soon all will use wire frames, for foundation, and the top bar will be a plain rectangle. Mr. D. A. Jones, with many others, prefers that the end bars of the frames project downward (Fig. 46) and that the bottom bar project at each end. It is thought that this saves the lives of bees, when the frames are being rapidly handled. Fie. 46. SSUES : a alli Hint i ~ D.Aiy a) HN) _ilitinae 4 FAI INNA ST HURL ll ANAC TONORA T H NA = i q eA SMA AANA | UT = ——<— Eo = ——w"" Jones’ Chaff Hive, Frame, Frame for Sections, Division Board and Perforated Zine Division Board. It is now quite the fashion to wire the frames (Fig. 110). This insures perfect safety if we wish to ship our bees, and secures against sagging or bulging of the foundation. If the foundation is-put on with a press, No. 36 wire is used; if pressed on by hand No. 30 wire is better. The timber for frame should be thoroughly seasoned, and of the best pine or white- wood, Care should be taken that the frame be made so as to hang vertically, when suspended on the rabbets of the hive. To ~ secure this very important point—true frames that will always hang true—they should always be made around a guide. 154 Gauge for Frame-Making. A BLOCK FOR MAKING FRAMES. This may be made as follows: Take a rectangular board ig. 47) eleven and one-eighth by thirteen and a-quarter inches. On both ends of one face of this, nail hard-wood pieces (Fig. 47, e, €) one inch square and ten and three-fourth inches long, so -that one end (Fig. 47, g, g) shall lack three-eighths inch of reaching the edge of the board. On the other face of the board, nail a strip (Fig 47, ¢) four inches wide and eleven and three-eighths inches long, at right angles to it, and im such position that the ends shall just reach to the edges of the board. Midway between the one inch square pieces, screw on another hard-wood strip (Fig, 47, d) one inch square and four inches long, parallel with and three-fourths of an inch from the edge. To the bottom of this, screw a semi-oval piece of hoop-steel (Fig. 47, b, 6), which shall bend around and press against the square strips. The ends of this should not reach quite to the bottom of the board. Near the ends of this spring fasten, by ’ rivets, a leather strap an inch wide (Fig. 47, a), which shall be straight when thus riveted. These dimensions are for frames eleven and one-fourth inches square, outside measure, and must be varied for other sizes. Instead of the iron and strap, some use two pieces of wood with a central pivot. The upper ends of these levers are united by a strong elastic cord, so that the lower ends are constantly pressed against the side pieces of the block. To use this block, we crowd the end-bars of our frames between the steel sptings (Fig. 47, 6, 6), and the square strips (Fig. 47, e, e); then lay on our top-bar and nail, after which we invert the block and nail the bottom-bar, as we did the top-bar. Now press down on the strap (Fig 47, a), which will loosen the frame, when jt may be removed, all complete . and true. Such a gauge not only insures perfect frames, but demands that every piece shall be cut with great accuracy, and some such arrangement should always be used in making the frames. . The projecting ends of the top-har will rest on the tins (Fig. 41), and thus the frame can be easily loosened at any time without jarring the bees, for it will not be glued fast, as it would be in case it rested on the wooden rabbets. The danger’ of killing bees is also abolished by use of the tins, Cover for the Frames. 135 When the frames are in the hive there should be a three- eighths inch space between the sides and bottom of the frames, and the sides and bottom of the hive. A much wider space would very likely receive the comb, and be troublesome. Frames that fit close in the hive, or that reach to the bottom, ° are very inconvenient and undesirable. To secure against this, our lumber must be thoroughly seasoned, else when shrinkage takes place our frames may touch the bottom-board. Fic. 47. The distance between the frames may be one-half of an inch, . though a slight variation either way does no harm. Some men, of very precise habits, prefer nails or wire staples in the side of the frames (as already stated, Mr. Jones prolongs the sides and bottom of the frame for the same purpose) at top and bottom, which project just a quarter of an inch, so as to maintain this unvarying distance; or staples in the bottom of the hive to secure the same end. Mr. Langstroth so arranged his frames, and Mr. Palmer, of Hart, Michigan, whose neat- “ness is only surpassed by his success, does the same thing. I have had hives with these extra attachments, but found in them no special advantage. I think we can regulate the distance with the eye, so as to meet every practical demand, and thus save the expense and trouble which the above attachments cost. COVER FOR FRAMES. — In summer I prefer oil-cloth to cover the frames. This is used with the glazed. or enameled side down, and should be Re os ee +. "
  • i eh | x Apiary Grounds, 153 a small, neat, inexpensive house, in the centre of the apiary grounds, is indispensable. This will serve in winter as a shop for making hives, frames, etc., and as a store-house for honey, while in summer it will be used for extracting, transferring, storing, bottling, etc. In building this, it will be well to con- struct a frost-proof, thoroughly drained, dark, and well- ventilated cellar. To secure the thorough ventilation, pass a tube, which may be made of tile, from near the bottom, through the earth to the surface; and another, from near the bottom, to the chimney or stove-pipe above (see chapters XVIII and XIX). PREPARATION FOR EACH COLONY. Virgil was right in recommending shade for each colony. _ Bees are forced to cluster outside the hive, if the hives are subjected to the full force of the sun’s rays. _ By the intense heat, the temperature inside becomes like that of an oven, and the wonder is that they do not desert entirely, I have known © hives, thus unprotected, to be covered with bees, idling out- side, when by simply shading the hives, all would go merrily to work. The combs, too, and foundation especially, are lable, in unshaded hives, to melt and fall down, which is very damaging to the bees, and very vexatious to the apiarist. The remedy for all this is to always have the hives so situated that they will be entirely shaded all through the heat of the day. This might be done by constructing a shed or house, but these are expensive and inconvenient, and, therefore, to be discarded. If the apiarist has a convenient grove, this may be trimmed high, so as not to be damp, and will fulfill every requirement. So arrange the hives that while they are shaded through all the heat of the day, they will receive the sun’s rays early and late, and thus the bees will work more hours. I always face my hives to the east. If no grove is at command, the hives may be placed on the north of a Concord grape-vine (Fig. 68), or other vigorous variety, as the apiarist may prefer. Thisshould be trained to a trellis, which may be made by setting two posts, either of cedar or oak. Let these extend four or five feet above the ground, and be three or four feet apart. Connect them at intervals of eighteen inches with three galvanized wires, the last one being at the top of the posts. Thus wecan 154 Preparations for Hives. <7 egg | have shade and grapes, and can see for ourselves that bees do | not injure grapes. If preferred we may use evergreens for | this purpose, which can be kept low, and trimmed square and close on the north. These can be got at once, and are super- Fie. 68. 2 t eh pad we \ eat . Mae LG, ” sa 9 a Ay iat giing x Sl Let ick Seca Fiche eas wl ida cay oe Nucleus and Simplicity Hive Shaded by Grape-vine. ior in that they furnish ample shade at all seasons. Norway . o spruce is the best. These should be at least six feet apart. 4 A. I. Root’s idea of having the vine of each succeeding row eel divide the spaces of the previous row, in quincunx order (Fig. , Grape-vine Apiary. 155 Fia. 69. Grape-vine Apiary. 156 Preparations for Hives. 69), is very good; though I should preter the rows in this. ease to be four, instead of three feet apart, especially with ever-greens. Until protecting shade can be thus permanently secured, boards or tent cloth covers should be arranged for temporary protection. Many apiarists economize by using fruit trees for this purpose, which from their spreading tops answer very well. Mr. A. J. Root’s idea of having sawdust under and about the hives is, I think, a good one. The hives of the Michigan Agricultural College (Fig. 70) are protected by evergreens, trimmed close on the north side. In the figure the artist has | made a deciduous tree, and so it appears too spreading. A space four feet by six, north of the shr ubs, was then dug out to a depth of four inches, and filled with sawdust (Fig. 70, f), underlying which were old bricks, so that nothing would grow up through the sawdust. The sawdust thus extends one foot back, or west of the hive, three feet north, and the same distance to the east or front side of the hive. This makes it neat about the hive, and largely removes the danger of losing the queen in handling the bees ; as should she fall outside the hive, the sharp-sighted apiarist would be very likely indeed to see her. Mr. J. H. Nellis, long the able Secretary of the North- Eastern Bee- ‘Keepers Association, objects to sawdust, as he thinks it rots too quickly, may take fire, and blows about badly. He would use sand or gravel instead. I have found another objection to the above plan. The grass-comes up too freely. Having to change our apiary grounds, I dug the hole as above described, ‘and covered the bottom with a thin layer of coal tar, upon which I placed a layer of brick, which I covered with conerete, and all with a thin layer of ‘eravel. This work can be done after the busy season is over. The cost is very light, and we have a neat and permanent founda- tion for each hive. After the evergreens are well started, all the space between the sawdust areas should be in grass, and kept neatly mown. This takes but little time, and makes the apiary always pleasant and inviting. Hive Shaded by Evergreen. Fie. 70. tl “< i itinid “lity, Nn li 157 Haste A Two Story Hive Shaded by Evergreen. 158 Transferring Bees. CHAPTER VII. TO TRANSFER BEES. As you may have purchased your bees in box hives, barrels, or hollow logs, and so, of course, will desire to transfer them immediately into movable-frame hives, or, as already suggest- ed, you may wish to transfer from one movable-frame to another, I will now proceed to describe the process. Among the many valuable methods which Mr. Heddon has given to the bee-keeping public not the least valuable is that of transferring. By his method the work may be done at any season whenever the bees are on the wing. After blowing a little smoke into the hive, sufficient to alarm the bees, we set it a little aside, and put in its place our new hive full of wired foundation. We now turn the old hive, whatever it may be, bottom side up, and place a box over it. If the bees are suf- . ficiently smoked, it will make no difference even if the box is not close fitting to the old hive. We then with a stick or hammer rap on the hive for from ten to twenty minutes. The bees will fill with honey and go with the queen into the upper box and cluster. If towards the last we carefully set the box off once or twice, and vigorously shake the hive, and then re- place the box, we will hasten the emigration of the bees, and make it more complete. I got this suggestion from Mr. Bald- ridge. A few young bees will still remain in the old hive, but these will do no harm. We next take the box which contains the queen and nearly all the bees, and shake the bees all out in front of the hive, already placed on the old stand. The bees will at once take possession, draw out the foundation in a surprisingly short time, and will give us a set of combs which will surpass in beauty those procured in any other way. Should the bees be unable to gather any honey for some days, of course we must feed them, but as we shall see in the sequel, this will pay, even were it unnecessary. We set the old hive aside for twenty-one days, when the young bees will all come from the cells. Should the weather be cold, we might have to put this in a warm room, so the L ded Old Method of Transferring. 159 brood will not chill. We now drum out these bees as before, kill the queen, which has been reared, and unite the bees with the others, or form a separate colony as before—except that we supply them with a queen—as the number of bees deter- mines. We can now split out the corners of the old hive, split the gum, or separate the staves of the barrel, so as not to break the comb. This should be carefully cut loose, and the honey extracted by use of the wire comb-holder (Fig. 92) and the comb melted into wax for foundation. The only loss in this method is the time which the bees require to draw out the foundation, and this is far more than made up in the su- perior combs which are secured. I think the time expended in melting up the combs, ete., is more than made up by the time saved in transferring. THE OLD METHOD. If one has no foundation, or desires to give the bees the comb and honey at once, even at the cost of unshapely combs, he then should drum the bees out as before, and put the box containing the bees on the old stand, leaving the edge raised so that the bees whieh are out may enter, and so all the bees ean get air. This method is difficult, except in spring, and is best done about noon when the bees are busy on the fruit bloom. If other bees do not trouble, as they usually will not if busily gathering, we can proceed i in the open air. If they do, we must go into some room. I have frequently transfer- red the comb in my kitchen, and ofteninabarn. Now knock the old hive apart, as already described, cut the combs from the sides, and get the combs out of the old hive with just as little breakage as possible. Mr. Baldridge, if transferring in spring, saws the combs and cross-sticks loose from the sides, turns the hive into the natural position, then strikes against the top of the hive with a hammer till the fastenings are broken loose, when he lifts the hive, and the combs are all free and in convenient shape for rapid work. We now need a barrel, set on end, on which we place a board fifteen to twenty inches square, covered with several thicknesses of cloth. Some apiarists think the cloth useless, but it serves, I think, to prevent injury to comb, brood, or honey. We now place a comb on this cloth, and a frame on the comb, and cut out the comb the size of the inside of the 160 Fastening Comb in Frames. frame, taking pains to save all the worker brood. Now crowd the frame over the comb, so that the latter will be in the same position that it was when in the old hive; that is, so the honey will be above—the position is not very important—then fasten the comb in the frame, by winding about all one or two small wires or pieces of wrapping twine. To raise the frame and comb before fastening, raise the board beneath till the frame is vertical. Set this frame in the new.hive, and proceed with the others in the same way till we have all the worker-comb— that with small cells—fastened in. To secure the pieces, which we shall find abundant at the end, take thin pieces of wood, one-half inch wide and a trifle longer than the frame is deep, place these in pairs either side-the comb, extending up and down, and enough to hold the pieces secure till the bees shall fasten them (Fig. 71), and secure the strips by winding BiG. 0/2. ee —— Transferring Clasp. Transferred Comb. with small wire, just below the frame (Fig. 72), or by use of small rubber rings, or else tack them to the frame with small tacks. Some bee-keepers use U-shaped pieces of wire or tin to hold the comb in the frame. Captain Hetherington has invented and practices a very neat method of fastening comb into frames. In constructing his frames, he bores small holes through the top, side, and bottom-bars of his frames, about two inches apart; these holes are just large enough to permit the passage of the long spines of the hawthorn. Now, in transferring comb, he has but to stick these thorns through into the comb to hold it se- curely. He can also use all the pieces, and still make a neat and secure frame of comb. He finds this arrangement conve- nient, too, in strengthening insecure combs. In answer to my Transferring without Drumming. 161 inquiry, this gentleman said it paid well to bore such holes in all his frames, which are eleven by sixteen inches, inside measure. I discarded such frames because of the liability of the comb to fall out. Having fastened all the nice w vorker comb into the frames —of course all other comb will be melted into wax—vwe place all the frames containing brood together in the centre of our new hive, especially if the colony is weak, or the weather cool, and confine the space by use of the division board, adding the other frames as the bees may need them. We now place our new hive on the stand, pushing it forward so that the bees can enter anywhere along the alighting board, and then shake all the bees from the box, and any young bees that may have clustered on any part of the old hive, or on the floor, or ground, where we transferred the comb; immediately in- front. (They will enter at once and soon be at work, all the busier for hav- ing passed ‘‘from the old. house into the new.” In two or three days, remove the wires, or strings and sticks, when we shall find the combs all fastened and smoothed off, and the bees as busily engaged as though their present home had always been the seat of their labors. iy practicing this method, many proceed at once to transfer without drumming out the bees. "In this case the bees should be well smoked, should be driven away from the side of the old hive where the combs are being cut loose, by use of the smoker, and may be brushed direct from the old combs into the new hive. This method will be preferred by the ex- perienced, though I think the beginner will find it more easy and pleasant to first drum out all thie bees before he commences to cut out the combs. Of course, in transferring from one frame to another, the matter is much simplified. In this case, after thoroughly smoking the bees, we have but to lift the frames and shake or brush the bees into the new hive. Fora brush, a chicken or. turkey wing, a large wing or tail feather from a turkey, goose, or peacock, or a twig of pine or bunch of asparagus twigs, serves admirably. Now cut out the comb in the best form to accommodate the new frames, and fasten as already suggested. After the combs are all transferred, shake all remaining bees in front of the new hive, which has already been placed on the stand previously occupied by the old hive. 11 162 Hunting Bee Trees. Sometimes bees from trees in the forest are transferred to | hives and the apiary. HUNTING BEE TREES. Except for recreation, this is seldom profitable. It is slow and uncertain work. The tree when found is not our own, and though the owner may consent to our cutting it, he may dislike to do so. The bees, when found, are difficult to get alive; it is even more difficult to get the honey in good con- dition, and when secured, the honey and bees are often almost worthless. The principle upon which bees are ‘‘lined” is this; that after filling with honey, a bee always takes a direct course—‘‘a bee- line”—to its hive. To hunt the bee trees we need a bottle of sweetened water, a little honey-comb, unless the bees are gathering freely from forest flowers, and a small bottomless box with a sliding glass cover, and a small shelf attached to the middle of one side on the inside of the box. A shallow tra or piece of honey-comb is to be fastened to this shelf. If the bees are not found on flowers, we can attract them by burning a piece of honey-comb. If on a flower, set the box over them - after turning a little of the sweetened water in the comb or tray on the shelf. It is easy to get them to sipping this sweet. Then slide the glass, and when they fly, watch closely and see the direction they take. By following this line, we come to the bee tree, or more likely to some neighbor's apiary. By getting two, lines, if the bees are from the same tree, where the lines meet, there the tree will be. We should be careful not to be led to apiaries, and should look very closely when the bees fly, to be sure of the line. Experience makes a person quite skillful. When a tree is found, we must use all possible Deer to get the combs whole if we wish to transfer the ees. Feeding and Feeders. 163 CHAPTER VIII. FEEDING AND FEEDERS. As already stated, it is only when the worker-bees are stor- ing that the queen deposits to the full extent of her capability, and that brood-rearing is at its height. In fact, when storing ceases, general indolence characterizes the hive. This is pecu- liarly true of the German and Italian races of bees. Hence, if we would achieve the best success, we must keep the workers active, even before gathering commences, as also in the in- terims of honey secretion by the flowers; and to do this we must feed sparingly before the advent of bloom in the spring, and whenever the workers are forced to idleness during any part of the season, by the absence of honey-producing flowers. For a number of years, I have tried experiments in this direc- ction by feeding a portion of my colonies early in the season, and in the intervals of honey-gathering, and always with marked results in favor of the practice. Mr. D. A. Jones has truly said, that if feeding in the autumn be deferred too long, till the queen ceases laying, it often takes much time to get her to resume, and not infre- . quently we fail entirely. Every apiarist, whether novice or veteran, will receive ample reward by practicing stimulative feeding early in the season ; then his hive ‘at the dawn of the white clover era will be re- dundant with bees, well filled with brood, and in just the trim to receive a bountiful harvest of this most delicious nectar. Feeding, too, is often necessary to secure sufficient stores for _winter—for no apiarist, worthy of the name, will suffer his faithful, willing subjects to starve, when so little care and expense will prevent it. HOW MUCH TO FEED. If we only wish to stimulate, the amount fed need not be -great. A half pound a day, or even less, will be all that is necessary to encourage the bees to active preparation for the good time coming. For information in regard to supplying stores for winter see Chapter X VIII. 164 What and how to Feed, WHAT TO FEED. For this purpose I would feed granulated sugar, reduced to the consistency of honey, or else extracted honey kept over from the previous year. ‘The price of the latter will decide which is the more profitable. Honey, too, that has been drained or forced out of cappings, ete., is good, and only good, to feed. To make the syrup, I use one quart of water to two of sugar, and heat till the sugar is dissolved. Many advise feeding the poorer grades of sugar in spring. My own experience makes me question the policy of ever using such feed tor bees. The feeding of glucose or grape sugar is even worse policy. It is bad food for the bees, and its use is dangerous to the bee-keeper’s reputation, and injurious to our brother bee-keepers. Glucose is so coupled with fraud and adulteration that he who would ‘‘avoid the appearance of evil” must let it severely alone. In all feeding, unless extracted honey is what we are using, we cannot exercise too great care that such feed is not carried to the surplus boxes. Only let our customers once taste sugar in their comb-honey, and not only is our own reputation gone, but the whole fraternity is injured. In case we wish to have our combs in the sections filled or capped, we must feed ex- tracted honey, which may often be done with great advantage. : HOW TO FEED. The requisites of a good feeder are: Cheapness, a form to admit quick feeding, to permit no loss of heat, and so arranged that we can feed at all seasons without in any way disturbing the bees. The feeder (Fig. 73) which I have used with good satisfaction, is a modified division-board, the top-bar of which (Fig. 73, 6) is two inches wide. From the upper central por- tion, beneath the top-bar, a rectangular piece, the size of an oyster-can, is replaced with an oyster-can (Fig. 73, 9), after the top of the latter has been removed. A vertical piece of wood (Fig. 73, d) is fitted into the can so as to separate a space about one inch square, on one side, from the balance of the chamber. This piece does not reach quite to the bottom of the can, there being a one-eighth inch space beneath. In the top-bar there is an opening (Fig. 73, e) just above the smaller space below. In the larger space is a wooden float (Fig. 73, f) full of holes. On one side, opposite the larger chamber of the Bee-Feeders. — 165 ean, a half-inch piece of the top (Fig. 73, ¢) is cut off, so that the, bees can pass between the can and top-bar on-to the float, where they can sip the feed. The feed is turned into the hole in the top-bar (Fig. 73, e), and without touching a bee, passes down under the vertical strip (Fig. 73, d) and raises the float (Fig. 73, f). The can may be tacked to the board at the ends near the top. Two or three tacks through the can into the vertical piece (Fig. 73, d) will hold the latter firmly in place ;- or the top-bar may press on the vertical piece so that it cannot move. Crowding a narrow piece of woolen cloth between the - can and board, and nailing a similar strip around the beveled edge of the division-board, makes all snug. The objection to Fig. 73. ‘ Division-Board Feeder. ’ Lower part of the face of the can removed, to show float, ete. this feeder is that it can not be placed just above the cluster of bees. On very cold days in spring the bees can not reach their food in any other position. The feeder is placed at the end of the brood:chamber, and the top-bar covered by the quilt. To feed, we have only to fold the quilt over, when with a tea-pot we pour the feed into the hole in the top-bar. If a honey-board is used, there must be a hole in this just above the hole in the division-board feeder. In either case, no bees can escape, the heat is confined, and our division-board feeder is but little more expensive than a division-board alone. Some apiarists prefer a quart can with finely perforated cover. This is filled with liquid, the cover put on, and the 166 - Bee-Feeders. whole quickly inverted and set above a hole in the cover just above the bees. Owing to the pressure of the air, the liqnid will not descend so rapidly that the bees cannot sip it up. The objections to this feeder are, that it is awkward, raises the cushions so as to permit the escape of heat, and must be removed to receive the feed. . The Simplicity feeder (Fig. 74), invented by Mr. A. I. Root, is shown on its side in the illustration. This is used at the entrance, and so is not good for cold weather. As the feed is exposed it can only be used at night, when the bees are not flying. Fie. 74. Simplicity Bee- Feeder. Fig. 75. Shuck’s Boss Bee-Feeder. The Shuck feeder (Fig. 75) is a modification of the Simplic- ity, and a great improvement. This is used at the entrance of the hive or by nailing two together so that the sides mark- ed D will face each other. We can use it above the bees. We then would place the opening D, above a hole in the cloth cover, or honey board, turn the feed in at C, and the bees would come up at D, pass under the cover, and down into the saw-cuts (Fig. 75, A, 4) when they would sip the Snuth Bee-Feeder. = LG7e feed, and then crawl up on the partitions. Thisfeeder works ad- mirably, but it is patented, costs too much, and is improved in the SMITH FEEDER. _ This feeder was sent me by my friend, John Smith, of Massachusetts. I have used it two years, and think it,fills every requirement of a perfect feeder. : This feeder (Fig. 76) is larger than the Shuck, and}is covered all aver with wire gauze (Fig. 76, a), which is raised by the wooden rim, so that the bees can pass readily over the partitions, (Fig. 76). The central saw-cuts’ (Fig. 76) do Fie 76. Smith Feeder. not reach the end of the feeder, so there is a platform left (Fig. 76, 6) through which a hole (Fig. 76, ¢) is made. This rests above a hole in the cloth below, and is the door through which the bees reach the feed. When in position just above the bees, it may be covered by a shingle or piece of paste-board, and all by the chaff cushion. To feed, we have only to raise the cushion and the paste-board, and turn the food through the gauze. No bees can get out, there is no disturbance, no danger from the robbers, and we ean feed at ay ens and can feed very rapidly if desired. r. D. A. Jones and many others with tight bottom boards use no feeder, but turn the feed right into the hive. Even had I such hives I think I should still prefer to use such a feeder as that just described. The best time to feed is just at night-fall. In this case the 168 Winter Feeding. feed will be carried away before the next day, and the danger to weak colonies from robbing is not so great. In feeding during the cold days of April, all should be close above the bees to economize the heat. In all feeding, care is requisite that we may not spill the feed about the apiary, as this may, and very generally will, induce robbing. If, through neglect, the bees are found to be destitute of stores in mid-winter, it is not best to feed liquid food, but solid food, like the Viallon candy or the Good mixture of honey and sugar, which will be described under the head of shipping queens. Cakes of either of these should be placed on the frames above the cluster of bees. Rearing Queens. 169 CHAPTER IX. QUEEN REARING. Suppose the queen is laying two thousand eggs a day, and that the full number of bees is forty thousand, or even more —though as the bees are liable to many accidents, and as the queen does not always lay to her full capacity, it is quite prob- able that this is about an average number—it will be seen - that each day that a colony is without a queen there is a loss equal to about one-twentieth of the working force of the col- ony, and this is a compound loss, as the aggregate loss of any day is its special loss, augmented by the several losses of the previous days. Now, as queens are liable to die, or to become ‘impotent, and as the work of increasing colonies demands the absence of queens, unless the apiarist has extra ones at his command, it is imperative, would we secure the best re- sults, to ever have at hand extra queens. So the young apiarist must éarly learn HOW TO REAR QUEENS. As queens may be needed early in the spring, preparations looking to the rearing of queens must commence early. As soon as the bees are able to fly regularly, we must see that they have a supply of bee-bread.. If there is not a supply from the past season, and the locality of the bee-keeper does not furnish an early supply, then place unbolted flour, that of rye or oats is best, in shallow troughs near the hives. It may be well to give the whole apiary the benefit of such feeding before the flowers yield pollen. Yet, I have found that here in Central Michigan, bees can usually gather pollen by the first week of April, which I think is as early as they should be allowed to fly, and in fact as early as they will fly with sufficient regularity to make it pay to feed the meal. I much question, after some years of experiment, if it ever pays at this place to give the bees a substitute for pollen. If one’s locality demands this early. feeding of meal, the bees can be induced to work readily at storing the material by dropping _ a little honey on it.* 170 Securing Queen-Cells. The best colony in the apiary—or, if there are several col- onies of equal merit, one of these—should be stimulated to the utmost, by daily feeding, and by increase of brood taken from other colonies. As this colony becomes strong, a comb con- taining drone cells should be placed in the centre of the brood nest. Very soon drone eggs will be layed. I have often had drones flying in early May. As soon as the drones commence to hatch out, remove the queen and all eggs and uncapped brood from some good, strong colony, and replace it with eggs or brood just hatched from the colony containing the queen, from which it is desired to breed. By having placed one or two bright, new, empty combs in the midst of the brood nest of- this colony, four days beforehand, we shall have in these combs just such eggs and newly hatching brood as we desire, with no brood that is too old. ; If we have more than one colony whose excellence warrants their use to breed from, then these eggs should be taken from some other than the one which has produced our drones. This will prevent the close in-breeding which would of neces- sity occur if both queens and drones were reared in the same colony; and which, though regarded as deleterious in the breeding of all animals, should be practiced in case one single queen is of decided superiority to all others of the apiary. The queen and the brood that have been removed may be used in making a new colony, in a manner soon to be deserib- ed under ‘‘dividing or increasing the number of colonies.” This queenless colony will immediately commence forming queen-cells (Fig. 78). Sometimes these are formed to the number of fifteen or twenty, and in case of the Syrian and Cyprian races, fifty or sixty, and they are started in a full, vigorous colony; in fact, under the most favorable conditions. Cutting off edges of the comb, or cutting holes in the same where there are eggs or larvee just hatched, will almost always insure the starting of queen-cells in such places. It will be noticed that our queens are started from eggs, or from larve but just hatched, as we have given the bees no other, and so are fed the royal pabulum from the first. Thus, we have met every possible requisite to secure the most superior queens. By removal of the queen we also secure a large number of cells, while if we waited for the bees to start the cells prepar- atory to natural swarming, in which case we secure the two tie N Seeuring Queen-Cells. 171 _ desirable conditions named above, we shall probably fail to se- - cure so many cells, and may have to wait longer than we can afford. Even the apiarist who keeps black bees and desires no . others, or who has only pure Italians, will still find that it pays to practice this selection, for, as with the poultry fan- cier, or the breeder of our larger domestic animals, the aplarist is ever observing some individuals of marked superi- ority,.and he who carefully selects such queens to breed from, will be the one whose profits will make him rejoice, and whose apiary will be worthy of all commendation. As will be patent to all, by the above process we exercise a care in breeding which is not surpassed by the best breeders of horses and cattle, and which no wise apiarist will ever neglect. It is often urged, and I think with some truth, that we shall secure better queens if we wait for the queen-cells to be started naturally by the bees, under the swarming impulse; and by early feeding and adding brood from other colonies we can hasten this period; yet, if we feed to stimulate, whenever the bees are not storing, and keep the colony redundant in bees of all ages by adding plenty of capped brood from other col- onies, we shall find that our queens are little, if any, inferior, even if their production is hastened by removal of a queen from the hive. If these directions are closely followed, there will be little brood for the bees to feed, and the queen-cells will not suffer neglect. Mr. Quinby not only advised this course, but he recommended starting queen cellsin nuclei; but he emphasized the importance of giving but very little brood, so nearly all the strength of the nurse bees would be expended ~. on the queen-cells. After we have removed all the queen-cells, in manner soon to be described, we can again supply eggs, or newly-hatched larvee—always from those queens which close observation has shown to be the most vigorous and prolific in the apiary—and thus keep the same queenless colony, or colonies, engaged in starting queen-cells till we have all we desire. Yet we must not fail to keep this colony strong by the addition of capped brood, which we may take from any hive as most convenient. We wust be cautious that our cells are started from only such brood as we take from the choicest queen. I have good reason to believe that queen-cells should not be started after Pe Forming Nuclei. the first of September, as I have observed that late queens are _ not only less prolific, but shorter lived. In nature, late queens — are rarely produced, and if it is true that they are inferior, it — might be explained in the fact that their ovaries remain so long inactive. As queens that are long unmated are utterly worth- less, so, too, freshly mated queens long inactive may become enfeebled. However, some of our best queen-breeders think late queens just as good. Possibly they may be if reared with the proper cautions. In eight or ten days the cells are capped, and the apiarist is. ready to form his NUCLEI. A nucleus is simply a miniature colony of bees—a hive and - colony on a small scale, for the purpose of rearing and keeping queens. We want the queens, but can afford to each nucleus only a few bees. The nucleus hive, if we use frames not more than one foot square, need be nothing more than an ordinary hive, with chamber confined by a division-board to the capacity of three frames. If our frames are large, then it may be thought best to construct special nucleus hives. These are small hives, which need not be more than six inches each way, that is, in length, breadth, and thickness, and made to contain from four to six frames of corresponding size. These frames are filled with comb. I have for several years used the first named style of, nucleus hive. and have found it advantageous to have a few long hives made, each to contain five chambers, while each chamber is entirely separate from the one next to it, is five inches wide, and is covered by a separate, close-fitting board, and the whole by a common cover. The entrance for . the two end chambers is at the ends near the same side of the hive. The middle chamber has its entrance at the middle of the side near which are the end entrances, while the other two chambers open on the opposite side, as far apart as is possible. The outside might be painted different colors to correspond with the divisions, if thought necessary, especially on the side with two openings. Yet I have never taken this precaution, nor have I been troubled much by losing queens. They have almost invariably entered their own apartments when returning from their wedding tour. These hives I use to keep queens in during the summer. Except the apiarist engages in queen- Forming Nuclet. lie rearing extensively as a business, I doubt the propriety of building such special nucleus hives. The usual hives are good property to have in the apiary, will soon be needed, and may be economically used for all nuclei. .In spring I make use of my hives which are prepared for prospective summer use, for my nuclei. Mr. E. M. Hayhurst, one of our best queen breeders, uses the full size Langstroth frame, in full sized hives, for queen- rearing, while Mr. Root uses the same frames in small special hives which hold three frames. These (Fig. 68) he fastens high up on his grape-vine trellises, just back of his other hives, which can be used for seats as he works with the nuclei. We now go to different hives of the apiary, and take out three frames for each nucleus, at least one of which has brood, and so on, till there are as many nuclei prepared as we have queen-cells to dispose of. -The bees should be left adhering to the frames of comb, only we must be certain that the queen is not among them, as this would take the queen from where she is most needed, and would lead to the sure destruction of one queen-cell. To be sure of this, never take such frames till you have seen the queen, that you may be sure she is left behind. It is well to close the nucleus for at least twenty-four hours, so that enough bees will surely remain to cover the combs, and so prevent the brood from becoming chilled. If any desire the nuclei with smaller frames, these frames must of course be filled with comb, and then we can shake bees immediately into the nuclei, till they shall have sufficient to preserve a: proper temperature. Such special articles about the apiary are costly and inconvenient. I believe that I should use hives even with the largest frames for nuclei. L. C. Root who uses the large Quinby frame uses the same for his nuclei. In this case we - should need to give more bees. Twenty-four hours after we have formed this nucleus, we are ready to insert the queen cell. We may do it sooner, even at once, but always at the risk of haying the cell destroyed. To insert the queen-cell—for we. are now to give one to each nucleus, so we can never form more nuclei than we have capped queen-cells—we first cut it out, using a sharp thin-bladed knife, commencing to cut on either side the base of the cell, at least one-half inch distant, for we must not im the least compress the cell, then cutting up and out for two inches, then across opposite the cell, This leaves the cell 174 - Inserting Queen-Cells. attached to a wedge-shaped piece of comb (Fig. 77), whose apex is next to the cell. A similar cut in the middle frame of the nucleus, which in case of the regular frames is the one containing brood, will furnish an opening to receive the wedge containing the cell. The comb should also be cut away be- neath (Fig. 77), so that the cell cannot be compressed. Mr. Root: advises a circular cut (Fig 78). If two or more fine cells} are so close together that separation is impossible, then all may be inserted ina nucleus. By close watching afterward we may save all the queens. If we have used bright new comb as advised above, we can see the queen move in the cell if she is ready to come out, by holding it between us and the sun, and may uneap such cells, and let the queen run in at the entrance of any queenless hive or nucleus at once. In selecting combs for queen cells, we should reject any that have drone comb. Bees sometimes start queen cells over drone larvee. Such cells are smoother than the others, and of course are worthless. After all the nuclei have received their cells and bees, they have only to be set ina shady place and watched to see that sufficient bees remain. Should too many leave, give them more by removing the cover and shaking a frame loaded with bees over the nucleus; keep the opening To Prevent Undesirable Mating. 175 nearly closed, and cover the bees so as to preserve the heat. The main caution in this 1s to be sure not to get any old queen in a nucleus. In two or three days the queens will hatch, and in a week longer will have become fertilized, and that, too, in Fie. 78. Queen Cell with Hinged Cap. case of the first queens, by selected drones, for as yet there are no others in the apiary. I cannot over-estimate the advantage of always having extra queens. To secure mating from selected drones, later, we must cut all drone-comb from inferior colonies, so that they shall rear no drones. If drone larve are in uncapped cells, they may be killed by sprinkling the comb with cold water. By giving the jet of water some force, as may be easily done by use of a fountain pump, they may be washed out, or we may throw them out with the ex- tractor, and then use the comb for starters in our sections. It is very important that those who rear queens to sell shall have no near neighbors who keep bees, and shall keep only very superior bees, that undesirable mating may be prevented. If drones are flying from undesirable colonies, they can be kept from leaving the hive by use of the entrance guards (Fig. 79). These are made of the perforated zinc, and while they permit the passage of the workers, they restrain the queen and drones. By shaking all the bees in front of the hive, we can, by use 176 Lamp Nursery. of these, soon weed out all the drones. With these in front of a hive, we can keep the queen from leaving with a swarm. Occasionally a queen will crowd through. By keeping empty frames and empty cells in the nuclei, the bees may be kept Fic. 79. Entrance Guard. active ; yet with so few bees, one cannot expect very much from the nuclei. After cutting all the queen-cells from our old hive, we can again insert eggs, as above suggested, and obtain another lot of cells, or, if we have a sufficient number, we can leave a single queen-cell, and this colony will soon be - the happy possessor of a queen, and just as flourishing asif the even tenor of its ways had not been disturbed. If it is pre- ferred, the bees of this colony may be used in forming the nuclei, in which case there is no danger of getting a queen in any nucleus thus formed or of having the queen-cells destroyed. We can thus start seven or eight nuclei very quickly. QUEEN LAMP NURSERY. This is a tin hive, with two walls enclosing a water tight space an inch wide, which, when in use, is filled with water through a hole at the top. Each nursery may hold from six to eight frames. Some prefer to have special frames for this nursery, each of which contains several close chambers. The queen cells are cut out and put in these chambers. Itis claim- ed that with no food the queens will not attack each other, and so several cells may be put in each chamber. By use of a common kerosene lamp placed under this nursery, the temperature must be kept from 80° F. to 100° F. By placing the frames with capped queen-cells in this, the queens hatch as well as if in a hive or nucleus. If as soon as hatched the young queens are introduced into a queenless colony or nucleus, as first shown by Mr. Langstroth, they are usually well received. Unless one is rearing a great many queens, this lamp nursery is not desirable, as we still have to use the nucleus to get the young queens fertilized, have to watch _ Clipping Queen's Wing. 11% carefully to get the young queens as soon as hatched, must ‘guard it carefully as moths are apt to get in, and, finally, unless great pains are taken, this method will give us inferior queens. Mr. W. Z. Hutchinson, one of our best queen breed- _ ers, thinks very highly of the lamp nursery. Some bee-keepers use a cage (Fig. 80) with projecting pins which are pushed into the comb, so that they hold thecage. A — Hig. 80. + ANON ES I it i SY Rios cell is put into each of these, and then they may be put into any hive. Of course the bees can not destroy the cell, as they can not get atit. Dr. Jewell Davis’ queen nursery consists of a frame filled with such cages which can be hung in any hive. JT have tried both and prefer this to the lamp nursery. SHALL WE CLIP THE QUEEN’S WING? In the above operation, as in many other manipulations of the hive, we shall often gain sight of the queen, and can, if we desire, clip her wing, 2f she has met the drone; but never before, that in no ease she shall lead the colony away to parts unknown This does not injure the queen, as some have claimed. Gen- eral Adair once stated that such treatment injured*the queen, as it cut off some of the air-tubes, which view was approved by so excellent a naturalist as Dr. Packard. Yet I am sure that this is all a mistake. The air-tube and blood-vessel, as | we have seen, go to the wings to carry nourishment to these members. With the wing goes the necessity of nourishment, and the need of the tubes. As well say that the amputation - 12 178 Clip the Queen’s Wing. ~ of the human leg or arm would enfeeble the constitution, aa = — it would cut off the supply of blood. Many of our best apiarists have practiced this clipping: of ~ -"s% the queen’s wings for years. Yet, these queens show no dimi- nution of vigor ; we should suppose they would be even more vigorous, as ‘useless organs are always nourished at the expense of the organism, and if entirely useless, are seldom long con- tinued by nature. The ants set us an example i in this matter, ~ as they bite the wings off ‘their queens, after mating has tran- eg spired. They mean that the queen ant shall remain at home, nolens volens, and why shall not we require the same of the queen bee? Were it not for the necessity of swarming in na- ture, we should doubtless have been anticipated in this matter by nature herself. . Some of our first apiarists think that queens with wings clipped are not as acceptable to the other bees. I have now had experience for ten years in this practice, and have yet to see the first indication that the above is true. Still, if the queen essays to go with the swarm, and if the apiarist is not at hand, she will sometimes be lost, never regaining the hive; - . but in this case the bees will be saved, as the y will return with- out fail. I always mean to be so watchful, keeping my hives shaded, giving ample room, and dividing or increasing, as to prevent “natural sw arming. Sometimes, however, with the closest vigilance swarms will i issue; then we may save much labor and yexation if we have the wing of the queen clipped. Some apiarists clip one primary wing the first year, the see- ondary the second year, the other primary the third, and if age of the queen permits, the remaining wing the fourth year. Yet, such data, with other matters of interest and importance, better be kept on a slate or card, and firmly attached to the hive, or else kept in a record opposite the number of the hive. The time required to find the queen is sufficient argu- ment against the ‘‘queen-wing record.” It is not an argu- ment against*the once clipping of the queen’s wings, for, in the nucleus hives, queens are readily found, and even in ‘full colonies this is not very difficult, especially if we heed the dic- tates of interest and keep Italians. It will be best, even though we have to look up black queens, in full colonies. The loss of one good colony, or the vexatious trouble of sep- arating two or three swarms which had clustered together, or Fertile Workers. 179 the hiving of a colony perched high up on some towering tree, would soon vanquish this argument of time. To clip the queen’s wing, which we must never do until she commences to lay eggs, take hold of her wings with the right thumb and index finger—never grasp her body, especially her abdomen, as this will be very apt to injure her—raise her off the comb, then turn from the bees, place her gently on the left hand, and press on her feet with the left thumb sufficiently to hold her. Now with the right hand, by use of a small, deli- eate pair of scissors, cut off about one-half of one of the front or primary wings. This method prevents any movement of legs or wings, and is easy and quick. Some apiarists complain that queens thus handled often re- ceive a foreign scent, and are destroyed by the bees. I have clipped hundreds, and never lost one. I believe that the above method will not be open to this objection. Should the experience of any one prove to the contrary, the drawing on of a kid glove, or eyen the fingers of one, might remove the difficulty. FERTILE WORKERS. We have already described fertile workers. As these can only produce unimpregnated eggs, they are, of course, value- less, and unless superseded by a queen will soon cause the de- struction of the colony. As their presence often prevents the acceptance of cells or a queen, by the common workers, they are a serious pest. The alfsence of worker brood, and the abundant and care- less deposition of eggs—some cells being skipped, while others have received several eggs—are pretty sure indications of their presence. The condition that favors these pests, is con- tinued absence of a queen or means to produce one. They seem more common with the Cyprian and Syrian bees. To rid a colony of these, unite it with some colony with a good queen, after which the colony may be divided if very strong. Simply exchanging places of a colony with a fertile worker, and a good strong colony, will often cause the destruc- tion of the wrong-doer. In this case, brood should be given to the colony which had the fertile worker, that they may rear @ queen ; or better, a queen-cell or queen should be given them. Caging a queen in a hive, with a fertile worker, for 180 Apiary Register. thirty-six hours, will almost always cause the bees to accept her. Shaking the bees off the frames two rods from the hive, - will often rid them of the counterfeit queen, after which they will receive a queen-cell or a queen. But prevention is best of all. We should never have a colony or nucleus without either a queen or means to rear one. It is well to keep young brood in our nuclei at all times. In all manipulation with the bees we need something to loosen the frames. Many use achisel. I have found an iron scraper (Fig. 81), which I had made by a blacksmith, very Fic. &] convenient. Itserves to loosen the frames, draw tacks, and ~ scrape off propolis. It would be easy to add the hammer. QUEEN REGISTER, OR APIARY REGISTER. With more than a half-dozen colonies it is not easy to know just the condition of each colony. Something to mark the date of each examination, and the condition of the colony at that time, is very desirable. Mr. Root furnishes the Queen Register (Fig. 82). With this it is very easy to mark the date of examination of each hive, and the condition of the colony at the time. Mr. Newman furnishes an Apiary Regis- ter which serves admirably for the’same purpose. Each hive is numbered. A corresponding number in the Register gives us all desired facts. We have only to note down at the time the condition of each colony and date of examination in the Register. 181 Queen Register. 82. 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This is a subject, too, that may well engage the thought and study of men of no inconsiderable experience. I believe that many veterans are not practicing the best methods in obtain- ing an increase of stocks. Before proceeding to name the ways, or to detail the meth- ods, let me state and enforce that it is always safest, and gen- erally wisest, especially for the beginner, to be content with doubling, or certainly with tripling, his* number of colonies each season. Especially let all remember the motto, ‘Keep all colonies strong.” There are two ways to increase: The natural, known as swarming, already described under natural history of the bee; and the artificial, improperly styled artificialswarming. This is also called, and very properly too, ‘‘ dividing. ” SWARMING. To prevent anxiety and constant watching, and to secure a more equable division of bees, and, as I believe, more honey, it is better to provide against swarming entirely by use of means which will appear in the sequel. But as this requires some experience, and, as often, through neglect, either neces- sary or culpable, swarms may issue, the apiarist should be al- ways ready with both means ‘and know ledge for immediate ac- - tion. Of course, necessary hives were all secured the previous winter, and will never be wanting. Neglect to provide hives before the swarming season-is convincing proof that the wrong pursuit has been chosen. If, as I have advised, the queen has her wing clipped, the matter becomes very simple, in fact, so much simplified that were there no other argument, this would be sufficient to recommend the practice of clipping the queen’s wing. Now, s \ Hiving Swarms. 183 if several swarms cluster together, we have not to separate them ; they will separate of themselves and return to their old homes. To migrate without the queen means death, and life ig sweet even to bees, and is not to be willingly given up ex- cept for home and kindred. Neither has the apiarist to climb trees, to secure his bees from bushy trunks, from off the lat- tice-work or pickets of his fence, from the very top of a tall, slender fragile, fruit tree, or other most inconvenient places. Nor will he even be tempted to pay his money for patent non- swarming hivers or patent swarm catchers. He knows his bees will return to their old quarters, so he is not perturbed by the fear of loss or plans to capture the unapproachable. It requires no effort ‘‘to possess his soul in patience. ” If he wishes no increase, he steps out, takes the queen by the remaining wings, as she emerges from the hive, soon after the bees commence their hilarious leave tak- ing, puts her in a cage, opens the hive, destroys, or, if he wishes to use them, cuts out the queen cells as already deserib- ed, gives more room—either by adding boxes or taking out some of the frames of brood, as they may well be spared, places the cage enclosing the queen under the quilt, and leaves the bees to return at their pleasure. At night-fall the queen is liberated, and very likely the swarming fever is subdued for the season. Tf it is desired to hive the absconding swarm with a nucleus colony, exchange the places of the old hive containing the caged queen, and the nucleus, to which the swarm will then come. Remove queen-cells from the old hive as before, give some of the combs of brood to the nucleus, which is now a full colony, and empty frames, filled with foundation, or if you have them empty combs, to both, liberate the queen at night and all is well, and the apiarist rejoices in a new colony. If the apiarist has neglected to form nuclei, and so has no extra queens—and this is a neglect—and wishes to hive his swarms separately, he places his caged queen in a hive filled with frames of foundation, with which.he replaces the old hive till the bees return; then this new hive, with queen and bees, and still better, with a frame or two of brood, honey, etc., in the middle, taken from the old hive, is set on a new stand. The old hive, with all the queen-cells except the largest and finest one rgmoyed, is set back, so that the apiarist has fore- 184 To Prevent Swarming. stalled the issue of after-swarms, except as other queen-cells ‘are afterward started, which is not likely to happen. If it is found too hard to move the hives, we can place a sheet over the old hive, place the caged queen on this, just in front of the entrance, which is covered by the sheet, and when the bees return and have all clustered about the queen, we have only to carry them to the new hive and turn them in front of the entrance. The old queen is liberated as before, and we are in the way of soon having two good colonies. Some apiarists cage the queen and let the bees return, and then divide the colony as soon to be described. Some extensive apiarists, who desire to prevent increase of colonies, cage the old queen, destroy cells, and exchange this hive—after taking out three or four frames of brood to strengthen nuclei—with one that recently swarmed. Thus a colony that recently sent out a swarm, but retained their — queen, has probably, from the decrease of bees, loss of brood and removal of queen-cells, lost the swarming fever, and if we give them plenty of room and ventilation, they will accept the bees from a new swarm, and spend their future energies in storing honey. If the swarming fever is not broken up, we shall only have to repeat the operation again in a few days. Still another modification, in case no increase of bees but rather comb honey is desired, is recommended by such apiar- ists as Doolittle, Davis, and others. We cage the queen ten days, then destroy the queen-cells in the hive, and liberate the queen, and everything is arranged for immense yields of comb honey. - In this case the queen is idle, but the bees seem to have lost not one jot of their energy. Dr. C. C. Miller, instead of caging the queen, places her with a nucleus on top of the old hive, thus keeping her at work, by exchange of frames. After ten days he destroys the queen-cells in the old hive and unites the nucleus with it. Here the queen is kept at work, the swarming impulse subdued, and a mighty colony made ready for business. If the apiary is sonre distance from the house, a simple di- aphragm telephone will inform the bee-keeper when swarming occurs. The roar of the telephone caused by the . bees strik- ing the wire gives the warning. Two objections are sometimes raised right here. Suppose several swarms issue at once, one of which is a second swarm, Hiving Swarms. 185 which of course has.a virgin queen, then all will go off to- gether, and our loss is grievous indeed. I answer that second swarms are unprofitable and should never be permitted. We should be so vigilant that this fate would never befall us. If we will not give this close attention without such stimulus, then it were well to have this threatening danger hanging over us. Again, suppose we are not right at hand when the swarm issues, the queen wanders away and possibly is lost. Yes, but if unclipped the whole colony would go, now it is only the queen. Usually the queen gets back. — If not, a little looking will find her within a ball of friendly workers. At night-fall, smoke these bees, and by watching we learn the hive which swarmed, as the bees about the queen will repair at once to it. HIVING SWARMS. But in clipping wings, some queens may be omitted, or trom taste, or other motive, some bee-keepers may not desire to ‘‘de- form her royal highness.” Then the apiarist must possess the means to save the would-be rovers. The means are, good hives’ in readiness, some kind of a brush—a turkey-wing will do—and a basket-with open top, which should be at least eighteen inches in diameter, and so made that it may be attached to the end of a pole, and two poles, one very long and the other of medium length. Now, let us attend to the method: As soon as the cluster commences to form, place the hive in position where we wish the colony to remain, leaving the entrance widely open, which with our bottom-board only requires that we draw the hive forward an inch or more over the alighting-board. As soon as the bees are fully clustered, we must manage as best we can to empty the whole cluster in front of the hive. As the bees are full of honey we need have little fear of stings. Should the bees be on a twig that could he sacrificed, this might be easily cut off with either a knife or saw (Fig. 85), and so care- fully as hardly to disturb the bees; then carry and shake the ‘bees in front of the hive, when with joyful hum they will at once proceed toenter. If the twig must not be cut, shake them all into the basket, and empty before the hive. Should they be on a tree trunk, or a fence, then brush them with the wing into the basket, and proceed as before. If they are high up 186 Hiving Swarms. on a tree, take the pole and basket, and perhaps a ladder will also be necessary. Always let ingenuity have its . perfect work, not forgetting that the object to be gained is to get just as many of the bees as is possible on the alighting-board in front iG ear. of the hive. Carelessness as to the quantity might involve the loss of the queen, which would be serious. The bees will not re- main unless the queen enters the hive. Should a cluster form where it is impossible to brush or shake them off, they can be driy- en into a basket, or hive, by holding it above them and blowing smoke among them. All washes for the hive are more than Several Swarms at Once. 187 useless. It is better that it be clean and pure. With such, if they are shaded, .bees will generally be satisfied. But assur- ance will be made doubly sure by giving them a frame of brood, in all stages of growth, from an old hive. This may be inserted before the work of hiving is commenced. Mr. Betsinger thinks this will cause them to leave; but I think he will not be sustained by the experience of other apiarists. He certainly is not by mine. I never knew but one colony to leave uncapped brood; I have often known them to swarm out of an empty hive once or twice, and to be returned, after brood had been placed in the hive, when they accepted the changed conditions, and went at once to work. This seems unreasonable, too, in view of the attachment of bees for their nest of brood, as also from analogy. How eager the ant to convey her larve and pupze—the so called exps—to a place of safety, when the nest has been invaded and danger threatens. Bees doubtless have the same desire to protect their young, and as they cannot carry them away to a new home, they re-~ main to care for them in one that may not be quite to their _ taste. When a atlas swarms, the impulse seems to be general, and often a half dozen colonies will be on the wing in a trice. These will very often, generally in truth, cluster together. In this case, to find the queens is well nigh impossible, and we can only divide up the bees into suitable colonies, and as soon as we find any starting queen cells, give them a queen. Of course we may loose every queen but one. In view of this trouble, and the expense of the various swarm catchers in vogue, | would say clip the queen’s wing. If it is not desired to increase, the bees may be given to a colony which has previously swarmed, after removing from the latter all queen-cells, and adding to the room by putting on the sections and removing some frames of brood to strengthen nuclei. We may even return the bees to their old home by taking the same precautionary measures, with a good hope that storing and not swarming will engage their at- tention in future ; and if we exchange their position with that of a nucleus, we shall be still more likely to succeed in over- coming the desire to swarm; though some seasons,” usually when honey is being gathered each day for long intervals, but not in large quantities, the desire and determination of some 188 ‘To Prevent Swarming. ky colonies to swarm is implacable. Room, ventilation, changed position of hive, each and all will fail. Then we can do no better than to eratify the propensity by giving the swarm a new home, and make an effort TO PREVENT SECOND SWARMS. As already stated, the wise apiarist will always have on hand extra queens. Now, if he does not desire to form nuclei (as already explained), and thus use these queen cells, he will at once cut them all out, and destroy them, and give the old colony a fertile queen. The method of introduction will be given hereafter, though in such cases there is very little danger incurred by giving them a queen at once, and by thoroughly smoking the bees, sprinkling with sweetened water, and daub- ing the new queen with honey, we may be almost sure of suc- cess. If desired, the queen-cells can be used in forming nuclei, in manner before described. In this way we prevent our colony from being virtually queenless for at least thirteen days, and that in the very height of the honey season, when time is money. If extra queens are wanting, we have only to look carefully through the old hive and remove all but one of the queen-cells. A ‘little care will certainly make sure work, as after swarming, the old hive is so thinned of bees that only carelessness will overlook queen-cells in such a quest. TO PREVENT SWARMING. As yet we can only partly avert swarming. Mr. Quinby offered a large reward for a perfect non-swarming hive, and never had to make the payment. Mr. Hazen attempted it, and partially succeeded, by granting much space to the bees, so that they should not be impelled to vacate for lack of room. The Quinby hive already described, by the large capacity of the brood-chamber, and ample opportunity for top and side- storing, looks to the same end. Mr. Muth says if we always have empty cells in the brood nest, swarming will seldom oc- cur. Yet he says, ‘‘seldom. ” We may s safely say that a per- fect non-swarming hive or system is not yet before the bee- keeping public. “The best aids toward non- -swarming are shade, ‘ventilation, and roomy hives. But as we shall see in the sequel, much room in the brood-chamber, unless we work for extracted honey—by which means we may greatly repress 3 _ Artificial Division of Colonies. 189 the swarming fever—prevents our obtaining honey in a desir- able style. If we add sections, unless the connection is quite free—in which case the queen is apt to enter them and greatly vex us—we must crowd some to send the bees into the sec- tions. Such crowding is almost sure to lead to swarming. I have, by uncapping the combs of honey in the brood-cham- ber, as suggested to me by Mr. M. M. Baldridge—causing the honey to run down from the combs—sent the bees crowding to the sections, and thusdeferred or prevented swarming. Those who have frames that can be turned upside down, say that the same end may be gained by simple inversion of the frames. . By placing our sections in the.brood-chamber till the bees commence to work on them, and then removing them above, or by carrying brood up beside the sections, the bees are gen- erally induced to commence working in the sections. The brood in this last case should be returned as soon as the bees show a willingness to accept the sections, else the comb built in the sections will be dark, especially if the brood is in dark comb. Mr. B. Walkerhas his section rack so made that it can be lowered, between the brood frames, and then raised above as soon as the bees begin to work in the sections. It is possible that by extracting freely when storing is very rapid, and then by freely feeding the extracted honey in the interims of honey secretion, we might prevent swarming, se- cure very rapid breeding, and still get our honey in sections. My experiments, in this direction, have not been ds success- ful as I had hoped, and I can not recommend the practice, though some apiarists claim to have succeeded. The keeping of colonies queenless, in order to secure honey without increase, as practiced and advised by some even of our distinguished apiarists, seems to me a very questionable practice. Dr. C. C. Miller's method already described, ac- complishes the same object, and keeps all the queens at work all the time. I would advise keeping a queen and the workers all at work in every hive, if possible, all the time. HOW TO MULTIPLY COLONIES WITH THE BEST RESULTS. We have already seen the evils of natural swarming, for, even though no stock is too much reduced in numbers, no colony lost by not receiving prompt attention, no Sunday quiet disturbed, and no time wasted in anxious watching; yet, 190 How to Increase Artificially. at best, the old colony is queenless for about two weeks; @ — state of things which no dpiarist can or should afford. The true policy then is to practice artificial swarming, as just described, | where we save time by cutting the queen’s wing, and save loss by permitting no colony to remain queenless, or still better to DIVIDE. This method will secure uniform colonies, will increase our number of colonies just to our liking, will save time, and that when time is most valuable; and is in every respect safer and -more desirable than swarming. I have practiced dividing ever since I have kept bees, and never without the best results. HOW TO DIVIDE. By the process already described, we have secured a goodly number of fine queens, which will be in readiness at the needed time. Now, as soon as the white clover harvest is well commenced, early in June, we may commence operations. If we have but one colony to divide, it is well to wait till they become pretty populous, but not till they swarm. Take one of our waiting hives, which now holds a nucleus with fertile queen, and place the same close along side the eolony we wish to divide. This must be done on a warm day when the bees: are active, and better be done while the bees are busy, in the middle of the day. Remove the division-board of the new hive, and then remove five combs well loaded with brood, and’ of course containing some honey, from the old colony, bees and all, to the new hive. Also take the remaining frames and shake the bees into the new hive; onlu be sure that the queen stull remains in the old hive. Fill both the hives with empty frames—if the frames are filled with empty comb it will be still better, if not, it will always pay to give full frames of ~ foundation—and return the new hive to its formet position. The old bees will return to the old colony, while the young ones will remain peaceably with the new queen. The old col-. ony will now contain at least seven frames of brood, honey, ete., the old queen, and plenty of bees, so that they will work on as though naught had transpired, though perhaps moved to a little harder effort, by the added space and five empty combs or frames of foundation. These last may be all placed at one end, or placed between the others, though not so as to i < » gi hill A ad ~ Dividing. 191 greatly divide brood. The new colony will have eight frames of brood, comb, ete., three from the nucleus and five from the old colony, a young fertile queen, plenty of bees, those of the pre- vious nucleus and the young bees from the old colony, and will work with asurprising vigor, often even eclipsing the old colony. If the apiarist has several colonies, it is better to make the new colony from several old colonies, as follows: Take one frame of brood-comb from each of six old colonies, or two from each of three, and earry them, bees and all, and place with the nucleus. Be swre that no queen is removed. Fill all the hives with empty combs, or foundation, as before. In this way we increase without in the least disturbing any of the colonies, and may add a colony every day or two, or per- haps several, depending on the size of our apiary, and can thus almost always, so my experience says, prevent swarming. By taking only brood that is all capped, we can safely add one or two frames to each nucleus every week, without adding: any bees, as there would be no danger of loss ‘by chilling the brood. In this way, as we remove no bees, we have to spend no time in looking for the queen, and may build up our nuclei into full stocks, and keep back the swarming impulse with great facility. These are unquestionably the best methods to divide, and so I will not complicate the subject by detailing others. The only objection that can be urged against them, and even this does not apply to the last, is that we must seek out the queen in each hive, or at least be sure that we do not remove her, though this is by no means so tedious if we have Italians or other races of yellow bees, as of course we all will. I might give other methods which would render unnecessary this cau- tion, but they are to my mind inferior, and not to be recom- mended. If we proceed as above described, the bees will sel- dom prepare to swarm at all, and if they do they will be dis- covered in the act, by such frequent examinations, and the work may be cut short by at once dividing such colonies, as first explained, and destroying their queen-cells, or, if desired, using them for forming new nuclei. 192 Superiority of Italians. CHAPTER XL. ITALIANS AND ITALIANIZING. The history and description of Italians have already been considered, so it only remains to discuss the subject in a prac- tical light. The superiority of the Italians seems no longer a mooted question. I now know of no one among the able apiarists in our country who takes the ground that a thorough balancing of qualities will make as favorable a showing for the German as for the Italian bees, though I think that the late Baron of ‘ Berlepsch held to this view. _I think I am capable of acting as judge on this subject. I have never sold a dozen queens in my life, and so have not been unconsciously influenced by self-interest. In fact, I have never had, if I exce ept two years, any direct interest in bees at all, and all my work and experiments had only the promo- - tion and spread of truth as the ultimatum. Again, Lhave - kept both blacks and Italians side by side and carefully observed and noted results during eight years of my expe- rience. I have carefully collected data as to increase of brood, rapidity of storing, early and late habits in the day and season, kinds of flowers visited, amiability, ete., and I believe that to say that they are not superior to black . bees, is like saying that a Duchess among short-horns is in no wise superior to the lean, bony kine of Texas; or that our Essex and Berkshire swine are no whit better than the caday- erous, lank breeds, with infinite noses, that, happily, are now so rare among us. The Italians are far superior to the Ger- man bees in many respects, and thougk I am acquainted with — all the works on apiculture printed in our language, and have an extensive acquaintance with the leading apiarists of our country from Maine to California, yet I know not a man that - has had opportunity to form a correct judgment, that does not give strong preference to the Italians. The black bees are in some respects superior to the Italians, and if a bee-keeper’s methods cause him to give these points undue importance, in . 4 « eee wns ‘ Sy Superiority of Italians. 198 forming his judgments, then his conclusions may be wrong. Faulty management, too, may lead to wrong conclusions. ' The Italians certainly possess the following points of supe- riority : * — First. They possess longer tongues, and so can gather from flowers which are useless to the black bee. This point has al- ready been sufficiently considered. How much value hangs upon this structural peculiarity I am unable to state. I have frequently seen Italians working on red clover. I never saw a black bee thus employed. It is easy to see that this might be, at certain times and certain seasons, a very material aid. How much of the superior storing qualities of the Italians is due to this lengthened ligula, Iam unable to say. Mr. J. H. Martin has a very ingenious tongue measurer by which the length of the tongues of bees in the several hives can be quick- ly and accurately compared. I have made a very simple and convenient instrument to accomplish the same end; two rec- tangular pieces, one of glass and the other of wire gauze, are so set in a frame that the glass inclines to the gauze. At one end they touch ; at the other they are separated three-fourths of aninch. Honey is spread on the glass and all set in the hive. The bees can only sip the honey through the gauze. The bees that clean the glass farthest from the end where it touches the gauze have the longest tongues. This gives only relative lengths, while Mr. Martin’s register tells the absolute length. Second. They are more active, and with the same oppor- tunities will collect a good deal more honey. This is a matter of observation, which I have tested over and overagain. Yet I will give the figures of another: Mr. Doolittle secured from two colonies, 309 lbs. and 301 lbs. respectively, of comb honey, during the past season. These surprising figures, the best he could give, were from his best Italian stocks. Similar testi- mony comes from Klein and Dzierzon over the sea, and from hosts of our own apiarists. Third. They work earlier and later. This is not only true of the day, but of the season. On cool days in spring, I have seen the dandelions swarming with Italians, while not _a black bee was to be seen. On May 7th, 1877, I walked less than half a mile, and counted sixty-eight bees gathering from dandelions, yet only two were black bees. This might 13 194 Superiority of Ttalians. be considered an undesirable feature, as tending to spring dwindling. Yet, with proper management, to be described while considering the subject of wintering, I think this no ob- jection, but a great advantage. Fourth. They are far better to protect ihen hives against robbers. Robbers that attempt to plunder Italians of their hard-earned stores soon find that they have ‘‘ dared to beard the lion in his den.” This is so patent that even the advo- cates of black bees are ready to concede it. Fifth. They are almost proof against the ravages of the bee-moth’s larvee. This is also universally conceded. This is no very great advantage, as no respectable bee-keeper would dread moths, even with the black bees. Sixth. The queens are decidedly more prolific. This is probably in part due to the greater and more constant activity of the workers. This is observable at all seasons, but more especially when building up in the spring. No one who will take the pains to note the increase of brood will long remain in doubt on this point. Seventh. They are less apt to breed in winter, when it is desirable to have the bees very quiet. Eighth. The queen is more readily found, which is a great advantage. In the various manipulations of the apiary, it is frequently desirable to find the queen. In full colonies I would rather find three Italian queens than one black one. Where time is money, this becomes a matter of much import- ance. Ninth. The bees are more disposed to adios to the comb while being handled, which some might regard a doubtful compliment though I consider it a desirable quality. Tenth. They are, in my judgment, less liable to rob other bees. They will find honey when the blacks gather none, and the time for robbing is when there is no gathering. This may explain the above peculiarity. Eleventh. In my estimation, a sufficient ground for pref- erence, did it stand alone, is that the Italian bees are far more amiable. Years ago I got rid of my black bees, because they were so cross. A few years later, I got two or three colonies, — that my students might see the difference, but to my regret ; for, as we removed the honey in the autumn, they seemed perfectly furious, like demons, seeking whom they might de- » Walshe Poeun Bisel Bees 195 vour, and this, too, despite the smoker, while the far more numerous Italians were safely handled, even without smoke. The experiment at least satisfied a large class of students as to superiority. Mr. Quinby speaks in "ae book of their being cross, and Captain Hetherington tells me that if not much handled they are more cross than the blacks. From my own experience, I cannot understand this. Hybrids are even more cross than are the pure black bees, but otherwise are nearly as desirable as the pure Italians. I have kept these two races side by side for years; I have studied them most carefully, and I feel sure that none of the above eleven points of excellence are too strongly stated. The black bees will-go into close boxes more readily than Italians, but if we use the sections for comb honey and on other grounds we can not afford to do otherwise, we shall find, with the more ample connection between the brood-chamber and sections, that even here, as Mr. Doolittle and many others have shown, the Italians still give the best returns. There is no question but that the German bees produce nicer, whiter comb honey than do the Italians. This superi- ority is due to thicker cappings.. This, however, is too nice a point to count very greatly in their favor. The comb honey produced by Italians does not have to go begging in the mar- kets. I have some reason to think that the blacks are more hardy, and have found many apiarists who agree with me. Yet, others of wide experience think that there is no differ- ence, while still others think that the Italians are more hardy. The Italian bees are said to dwindle worse in spring, which, as they are more active, is quite probable. As I have never had a case of serious spring dwindling, I cannot speak from experience. If the bee-keeper prevents early spring flying, which is very detrimental to either black or Italian bees, this point will have no weight, even if well taken. _ The advantages of the Italians, which have been considered thus fully, are more than sufficient to warrant the exclusion of the German bees from the apiary. Truly, no one needs to be urged to a course that adds to the ease, Pronbe and agree- ableness of his vocation. q 196 Introducing Queens. THE NEW RACES OF BEES. All of the valuable characteristics of the Italian bees are exaggerated in the Syrian bees, except that of amiability. This feature, irritability, would not be an objection to an ex- perienced bee-keeper. I believe, after two years’ experience with the Syrians, that they will soon be as pleasant to manage and handle as are the Italians. They are not subdued with smoke, and require careful handling. They are astonishingly prolific, antl keep up the brood rearing whether there are nec- tar-secreting flowers or not. For queen rearing they are super-excellent. The comb honey of these bees is said to be quite inferior, because of thin caps; a point I have failed to observe. The Cyprian bees are in no way superior to the Syrians, so far as I can learn, though I have had no experi- ence with them, and they are considerably more irritable. WHAT BEES SHALL WE KEEP? The beginner certainly better keep Italians. If the Syr- ians maintain their apparent superiority, I would certainly ad- vise the experienced bee-keeper to give them a trial. HOW TO ITALIANIZE. From what has been already explained regarding the natural history of bees, it will be seen that all we have to doto change our bees is to change our queens.. Hence, to Italianize a col- ony, we have only to procure and introduce an Italian queen. The same of course is true of Cyprianizing or Syrianizing. If we change the queen we soon change the bees. HOW TO INTRODUCE A QUEEN. In dividing colonies, where we give our queen to a colony composed wholly of young bees, it is safe and easy to intro- duce a queen in the manner explained in the section on arti- ficial swarming. To introduce a queen to a colony composed of old bees requires more care. First, we should seek out the old queen and destroy her, then cage our Italian queen in a wire cage (Fig. 84), which may be made by winding a «strip of wire-cloth, three and one-half inches wide, and containing fifteen to twenty meshes to the inch, about the finger. Let it” lap each way one-half inch, then cut it off. Ravel out the ner * oa us? Introducing Queens. 197 half inch 0n each side, and weave in the ends of the wires, forming a tube the size of the finger. We now have only to put the queen in the tube and pinch the ends together, and the queen is caged. The cage containing the queen should be Fie. 84. Queen Cage. 2 ig - inserted between two adjacent combs containing. honey, each of which will touch it. The queen can thus sip honey: as she needs it. If we fear the queen may not be able to sip the honey through the meshes of the wire, we may dip a piece of clean sponge in “honey and insert it in the upper end of the cage before we compress this end. © This will furnish the queen . with the needed food. In forty-eight hours we again open the hive, after a thorough smoking, and also the cage, which is easily done by pressing the upper end at right angles to the di- rection of the pressure when we closed it. In doing this do not remove the cage. Now keep watch, and if, as the bees en- ter the cage or as the queen emerges, the bees attack her, secure her immediately and re-cage her for another forty-eight hours. I have introduced many queens in this manner, and have very rarely been unsuccessful. At such times if the queen is not well received by the bees, then she is ‘‘ balled,” as it is termed. By the expression ‘‘ balling the queen,” we mean that the work- er bees press about her in a compact cluster, so as to form a real live ball as large as a good sized peach. Here the queen is held till she dies. By smoking the ball or throwing it into water the queen may be speedily liberated. Mr. Dadant stops the cage with a plug of wood (Fig. 84), and when he goes to liberate the queen replaces the wooden stopple with one of comb, and leaves the bees to liberate the queen by eating out the comb. Mr. Betsinger uses a larger cage, open at one end, which is pressed against the comb till the mouth of the cage reaches the middle of it. If I understand him, the queen is thus held by cage and comb till the bees liberate her. 198 Introducing Queens. If, upon liberating the queen, we find that the bees ‘‘ ball” her, that is, gather so closely about her as to form a compact cluster, we must at once smoke the bees off and re-cage the — queen, else they will hold her a prisoner till she is dead. The Peet cage (Fig. 85), which is not only an introducing but a shipping cage, is a most valuable invention. The back > R SS S => AN BN BN Z°8 = s ZS aN a aN aN aN aN EN ZaN of the cage is tin, and as seen in the figure may be drawn out, which leaves the back of the cage entirely open. The tin points, which turn easily, are turned at right angles to the cage as shown in the figure. The cage is pressed close up to a smooth piece of comb containing both brood and honey, where it is held by the tin points, and then the tin back is with- drawn. The bees will soon liberate the queen and almost al- ways accept her. I have had such admirable success with this cage that I heartily recommend it. The food in the cage will keep the queen, even though the. bees do not feed her through the wire, and there is no honey in the comb. Judge Andrews, of Texas, states a valuable point in this con- nection, which, though I have not tried, I am glad to give. The reputation of Judge Andrews and the value of the sug- gestion alike warrant it. He says queens will be accepted just as quickly when caged in a hive with a colony of bees, even though the old queen is still at large in the hive. Such caged queens, says the Judge, after two or three days, are AY Introducing Queens. sal tohs) just as satisfactory to the worker bees as though ‘‘ to the man- or born,” and even more safe when liberated—of course the old queen is first removed—as the bees start no queen cells, if the old queen has remained in the hive until this time, and the presence of queen cells agitates the newly liberated queen, which is pretty sure to cause her destruction. Here then we — may cage and keep our queens after they have been fertilized in the nuclei, and at any time can take one of these, or the old queen, at pleasure, to use elsewhere, though if the latter, we must liberate one of the caged queens, which, says the J udge, *¢will always be welcomed ‘by the bees.” When bees are not storing, especially if robbers are abund- ant, it is more difficult to succeed, and at such times the ut- most caution will occasionally fail of success if the bees are not all young. Sometimes a queen may be safely introduced into a queenless colony by simply shaking the bees all down in front of the hive, and as they pass in, letting the queen run in with them. If the queen to be introduced is in a nucleus, we can almost always introduce her safely by taking the frame containing the queen, bees and all, and setting it in the middle of the hive containing the queenless colony. A young queen, just emerging from a cell, can almost al- ways be safely given at once to the colony, after destroying the old queen. A queen cell is usually received with favor. If we use a cell we must be careful to destroy all other queen-cells that may be formed; and if the one we supply is destroyed, wait twenty-four hours and introduce another. If we wait seven or eight days, and then destroy all their queen-cells, the bees are sure to accept a cell. But to save time I should always introduce a queen. If we are to introduce an imported queen, or one of very great value, we might make a new colony, all of young bees. We simply place two or three combs of rapidly hatching brood in a hive, and the queen on them. By night-fall there will be a goodly cluster of young bees. Unless the day and night are warm the hive must be set in a warm room. The entrance should be closed in any case. This keeps the queen from leaving and robber bees from doing harm. As the num- ber of bees warrant it, more brood may be added, and by adding capped brood alone we may very soon have a full sized colony. 200 ~=Comb Stands. By having a colony thus Italianized in the fall, we may commence the next spring, and, as described in the section explaining the formation of artificial swarms, we may control our rearing of drones, queens, and all, and ere another autumn have only the beautiful, pure, amiable, and active Italians. I have done this several times, and with the most perfect sat- isfaction. I think by making this change in blood, we add certainly two dollars to the value of each colony, and I know of no other way to make money so easily and pleasantly. VALENTINE’S COMB STAND. In the work of finding queens, and in other manipulations, it is often desirable to take out frames. If these are set down beside the hive they are liable to injury. J. M. Valentine has given us a valuable ‘‘comb stand” (Fig. 86). As will Fic. 86. 5D; feteceasege: Valentine’s Comb Stand. be seen this holds two frames. The platform is handy to re- ceive tools, and the drawer serves well to hold scissors, knife, queen cages, etc. ; Mr. M. G. Young has invented an ‘‘ Easel” (Fig. 87) for e 4 How to get Queens. 201 the same purpose. This will hold several combs. Of course it will not do to leave combs thus exposed, except when the Fig. 87. Young’s Easel. bees are busy in the field; or we will have great trouble with robber bees. TO GET OUR ITALIAN QUEENS. At present the novice, and probably the honey producer who prefers to purchase rather than rear his queens, better send to some reliable, experienced breeder, and procure ‘‘dol- lar queens.” Unless these are impurely mated, which will rarety happen with first-class breeders, they are- just as good as ‘‘tested queens.” Testing only refers to the matter of pure mating. — I have felt, and I still feel, that this cheap queen traffic tends to haste, not care, in breeding, and that with ‘‘dollar ‘queens” ruling in the market, there is lack of inducement for that careful, painstaking labor that is absolutely requisite to give us the best race of bees. It is justly claimed, however, in favor of the ‘‘Dollar Queen” business, that it has hastened the spread of Italian bees, gives those who rather buy than rear 202 Shipping Queens. their queens a cheap market in which to purchase, and, best of all, weeds out of the business all but the most skillful, cautious, and honest breeders. Only skillful men can make it pay. Only cautious, honest men can find a market for their stock. We know that men are making a handsome profit in the business and at the same time are giving excel- lent satisfaction. This is the best argument, in favor of any business. I repeat, then, that the beginner better purchase ‘*dollar queens” of some reliable breeder—one who has made queen rearing a success for years, and given general satisfaction. I have feared that this ‘‘cheap queen” traffic would crush the hard effort, requiring study, time, money, and the most cautious experiment and observation, necessary to give us a very superior race of bees. There is reason to hope now that it will, at most, only delay it. Enterprising apiarists see in this the greatest promise for improved apiculture, and already are moving forward. Enterprising bee-keepers will purchase and pay well for the bee of the future that gives sure evidence of superior excellence. One thing is certain, ‘‘dollar queens” are in the market, and are in demand ; so, whether the busi- ness tends to our good or evil, as rational men we must accept the situation and make the most of things as they exist. Let me urge, however, upon the progressive apiarist, that there is no possible doubt but that the bees of the future will be immensely superior to those of to-day. Man can and will ~ advance here as he’ has in breeding all other stock. If the obstacles in the way are greater because of the peculiar nat- ural history of the bee, then the triumph, when it comes, will be greater, and the success more praiseworthy. TO SHIP QUEENS. For shipping queens the character of the shipping cage and of the food are of first importance. Nothing serves better for a cage than Peet’s cage (Fig. 85), already mentioned. As will be seen the bees are covered with a double screen— one of wire, the other (removed in the figure) of wood. These are separated one-fourth of an inch. The food should never be honey. This may daub the queen and cause her death. If the food consists of hard candy, then the cage must contain a bottle of water, the cork of which has a small opening, through which is passed a small cotton string. Food for Shipping. 208 These bottles are not satisfactory, and so our queen breeders have discovered a moist candy which makes them unnecessary. VIALLON CANDY. This candy, suggested by Paul L. Viallon, keeps moist for a week or more. ‘To make it, we take twelve ounces of powder- ed white sugar, four ounces of brown sugar, one tablespoonful of flour, and two of honey. Stir these well, adding enough water to make a stiff batter, then boil for a moment, and longer if we added too much water, after which we stir till it begins to thicken, when we turn it into the eage. The cage (Fig. 88) should be long enough to receive two half-inch au- Fig. 88. @ gesemaccatecsesess Serie SSS ———— (———S=——_ ATTN "=. \ \ REPT HY FTC EEECUCUTETN VY ELIE VOTO TTT "x Peet Cage. ger holes in the wood and at the end, which should be cut half way through the block, so near the chamber as to cut away an opening large enough for the bees to get at the food. The candy should be turned into these holes. The wire gauze should cover these holes, as well as the chamber for the bees. THE GOOD CANDY. This consists of granulated sugar moistened with extracted honey. We are indebted to Mr. I. R. Good for this cheap and excellent food. The only caution required is to get it just moist enough to keep it soft and not so moist that it will drip at all. The end of the cage (Fig. 88) to contain this should extend one and one-half inches beyond the cham- ber made for the bees. Through this end, lengthwise not crosswise, bore one or two three-eighth inch holes. Fill these with the candy, and insert a wooden cork into the holes at the end of the cage. The fault with this candy is that it crum- bles, as the honey is sipped from it, or evaporates. With the 204 Mailing Queens. holes as suggested above, we find this is obviated. With this candy I have had queens on the road two weeks without the - loss of a single bee. PREPARATIONS TO SHIP. The tin on the back of the cage has one corner cut off a little, so if we draw it back slightly we make a small opening. We now hold the cage in the left hand with the thumb over the hole, to keep the bees in, and with the right hand pick up the queen and eight or ten worker bees—bright ones, neither very young nor old—by grasping the wings with thumb and index finger, and put them into the cage. Close the opening by pushing in the tin slide, nail on the wooden screen (Fig. 85) and our queen is ready to mail. In this work we can make good use of the comb stand (Fig. 86). We should send queens by mail.. They goas safely as by express and it costs but a centor two. No one should presume, on any account, to send a queen by mail, unless the queen-cage is covered by this double screen and is provisioned as directed above, imstead of with honey. If shippers neglect these precautions, so that the mails become daubed, or the mail agents stung, we shall again lose the privilege of sending queens by mail. An order excluding bees from the mails will in the future be beyond recall, hence any carelessness that endangers this privilege will be virtually criminal. TO MOVE COLONIES. Should we desire to purchase Italians or other colonies, the- only requisites to safe transport are: A wire-cloth cover for ventilation, secure fastening of the frames so they cannot possibly move, and combs so old that they shall not break down and fall out. If the colony is very large, andthe weath- er very warm, there should be an opening in the bottom of the hive covered with gauze, or the bees may smother. The entrance ought to becovered with gauze. Ifcombs are built from wired foundation they will not break down even if new. Bees thus shut up should never be left where the sun can shine on them. In the cars the frames should extend lengthwise of the cars. I would never advise moving bees in winter, though it has often been done with entire safety. I should wish the bees to have a flight very soon after such disturbance. : _ The Honey Extractor. 205 CHAPTER XII. EXTRACTING, AND THE EXTRACTOR. The brood-chamber is often so filled with honey that the queen has no room to lay her eggs, especially if there is any neglect to give other room for storing. Honey in brood- combs is unsalable, because the combs are dark, and the size undesirable. Comb is very valuable, and should never be taken from the bees, except when desired to render the honey more marketable. Hence, the apiarist finds a very efficient auxiliary in the HONEY EXTRACTOR. No doubt some have expected and claimed too much for this machine. It is equally true that some have blundered quite as seriously in an opposite direction. For, since Mr. Langstroth gave the movable frame to the world, the apiarist has not been so deeply indebted to any inventor as to him who gave us the Mel Extractor, Herr von Hruschka, of Germany. Even if there was no sale for extracted honey—aye, more, even if it must be thrown away, which will never be necessa- © ry, as it may always be fed to the bees with profit, even then I would pronounce the extractor an invaluable aid to every bee-keeper. The principle which makes this machine effective is that of centrifugal force, and it was suggested to Major von Hruschka by noticing that a piece of comb which was twirled by his boy at the end of a string, was emptied of its honey. Herr von Hruschka’s machine was essentially like those now so common, though in lightness and convenience there has been a marked improvement. His machine consisted of a wooden tub, with a vertical axle in the centre, which revolved in a socket fast- ened to the bottom of the vessel, while from the top ef the tub fastenings extended to the axle, which projected, for a distance above. The axle was thus held exactly in the center of the tub. Attached to the axle was a frame or rack to hold the comb, whose outer face rested against a wire-cloth. The axle with its attached frame, which latter held the uncapped comb, was made to revolve by rapidly unwinding a string 206 Honey Extractor. which had been previously wound about the top of the axle, after the manner of top-spinning. Replace the wooden tub with one of tin, and the string with gearing, and it will be seen that we have essentially the neat extractor of to-day. The machine is of foreign invention, is not covered by a patent, and so may be made by any one who desires to do so. Fie. 89. Fig. 90. The first American honey extractor was that made by Mr. Peabody. This was without gearing, and served admirably in | its day, but has since been greatly improved, till now we have several machines, each with itsspecial excellencies, and all effect- ing the desired results with more or less ease and rapidity. DESIRABLE POINTS IN AN EXTRACTOR. The machine (Fig. 89) should be as light as is consistent with strength. It is desirable that the can be made of tin, as Honey Extractor. 207 it will be neater and more easily kept sweet and clean. The ean should be stationary, so that only a light'frame (Fig. 90) shall revolve with the comb. In some of the extractors (Fig. 90) the walls of this frame incline. This keeps the frames from falling in when the machine is at rest, but varies the centrifugal force at the top and bottom of the comb, which is urged as an objection. Of course this difference in force is very slight. It is desirable that the machine should run with gearing, not only for ease, but also to insure or allow an even motion, so that we need not throw even drone larve from the brood- cells, while in the act of extracting. In some machines the erank runs in a horizontal plane (Fig. 89), in others in a ver- tical plane(Fig. 91). Both styles have their friends. Ithink there is little choice between them. The arrangement for exit of the honey should permit a speedy and perfect shut-off. A molasses gate is excellent to serve for a faucet. I also pre- fer that the can should hold 30 or 40 pounds of honey before it would be necessary to let the honey flow from it. In ease of small frames, like the ones I have described as most desirable to my mind, I should prefer that the comb bas- ket might hold four frames. The comb basket should be placed so low in the can that no honey will be thrown over the top to daub the person using the extractor. I think that Fic. 92. a wire attachment with a tin bottom (Fig. 92, a, b) and made to hook on to the comb basket, which will hold pieces of comb not in frames, is a desirable addition to an extractor. Thecan, if metal, which is lighter and to be preferred to wood, as it does not sour nor absorb the honey, should be of tin, se 208 Use of the Extractor. % as not torust. A cover (Fig. 91) to protect the honey from dust, when not in use, is,very desirable. The cloth cover, gathered around the edge by a rubber, as made by Mr, A. I. Root, is excellent for this purpose. As no capped honey can be extracted, it is necessary to uncap~it, which is done b shaving off the thin caps. To do this, nothing is better than Fie. 93. Fig. 94.. is beveled to the edge. It is, perhaps, sometimes desirable to have a curved point (Fig. 94), though this is not at all essen- tial. USE OF THE EXTRACTOR. Although some of our most experienced apiarists say nay, it is nevertheless a fact, that the queen often remains idle, or extrudes her eggs only to be lost, simply because there are no empty cells. The honey yield is so great that the workers occupy every available space, and sometimes even they become unwilling idlers, simply because of necessity. Seldom a year has passed but that I have noticed some of my most prolific queens thus checked in duty. It is probable that just the proper arrangement and best management of frames for sur- . plus would make such occasions rare; yet, I have seen the brood-chamber in two-story hives, with common frames above ~ —the very best arrangement to promote storing above the brood-chamber—so crowded as to force the queen either to idleness or to egg-laying in the upper frames. This fact, as When to use the Extractor. 209 also the redundant brood, and excessive storing that follows upon extracting from the brood-chamber, makes me emphatic upon this point, notwithstanding the fact that some men of — - wide experience and great intelligence think me wrong. extracted honey—in poor seasons, when he could get very little, if any, in sections or boxes. By use of the extractor we can avoid swarming, and thus work for honey instead of increase of colonies. By use of the extractor, at any time or season, the apiarist can secure nearly if not quite double the amount of honey that he could get in combs. It requires much more skill to succeed in procuring comb honey than is required to secure extracted. The beginner will usually succeed far better if he work for extracted honey. The extractor enables us to remove uncapped honey in the fall, which, if left in the hive, may cause disease and death. By use of the extractor, too, we can throw the honey from our surplus brood-combs in the fall, and thus have a salable article, and have the empty combs, which are invaluable for use the next spring. If the revolving racks of the extractor have a wire basket attachment (Fig. 92) as 1 have suggested, the uncapped sec- tions can be emptied in the fall, if desired, and pieces of drone- comb cut from the brood-chamber, which are so admirable for starters in the sections, can be emptied of their honey at any season. By use of the extractor, we can furnish, at one-half the price we ask for comb- -honey, an article which is equal, if not superior, to the best comb-honey, and which, were it not for appearance alone, would soon drive the latter from the market. Indeed, extracted honey is gaining so rapidly in public favor that even now its production is far in excess of that of comb- honey. “WHEN TO USE THE EXTRACTOR. If extracted honey can be sold for fifteen cents, or even for ten or twelve, the extractor may be used profitably the sum- mer through; otherwise use it sufficiently often that there may always be empty worker-cells in the brood-chamber. It is often required with us during the three great honey 14 210 : ' To Purify Honey. ~ harvests—the white clover, basswood, and that of tall flowers. I have always extracted the honey so frequently as to avoid much uncapping. If the honey is thin, I would keep it in a dry warm room, or apply a mild heat, that it might thicken, and escape danger from fermentation. Many have sustained loss by extracting prematurely, so perhaps the beginner better not extract till after the bees have commenced to seal the honey. The labor of uncapping, with the excellent honey knives now at our command, is so light that we can afford to run no risk that the honey produced at our apiaries shall sour and become worthless. If the honey granulates, it can be reduced to the fluid state with no injury, by heating, though the temperature should never rise above 200° F. This can best be done by placing the vessel containing the honey in another containing water, though if the second vessel be set on a stove, a tin basin or pieces of wood should prevent the honey vessel from touching | the bottom, else the honey will burn. As before stated, the best honey is always sure to crystallize, but it may be prevented by keeping it in a temperature which is constantly above 80° F. If canned honey is set on top of a furnace in which a fire is kept burning, it will remain liquid indefinitely. The fact that honey granulates is the best test of its purity. To be sure, some honey does not crystallize, but it is so rare. that we may pretty safely decide that granulated honey is un- adulterated. To render the honey free from small pieces of comb, or other impurities, it should either be passed through a cloth or wire sieve—I purposely refrain from the use of the word strainer, as we should neither use the word strained, nor allow it to be used, in connection with extracted honey—or else draw it off into a barrel, with a faucet or molasses gate near the lower end, and after all particles of solid matter have risen to the top, draw off the clear honey from the bottom. In case of very thick honey, this.method is not so satisfactory as the first. I hardly need say that honey, when heated, is thinner, and will of course pass more readily through common toweling or fine wire cloth. Never allow the queen to be forced to idiots for want of empty cells.. Extract:all uncapped honey in the fall, and the ~ honey from all the brood-combs not needed for winter. The - Comb Box. 211 honey should also be thrown from pieces of drone-comb which are cut from the brood-frames, and from the uncapped comb in sections at the close of the season. HOW TO EXTRACT. The apiarist should possess one or two light comb boxes or baskets (Fig. 95), of sufficient size to hold all the frames from a single hive. These should have convenient handles, and a close-fitting cover, which will slide either way. Now, go to Fig. 95. | Comb Box. two or three colonies, and take enough’combs, and of the right kind, fora colony. The bees may be shaken off or brushed off with a large feather, pine twig, or other brush. If the bees are troublesome, close the box as soon-as each comb is placed inside. Extract the honey from these, using care not to turn so hard as to throw out the brood. If necessary, with a thin knife pare off the caps, and after throwing the honey from one side, turn the comb around, and extract it from the other. If the combs are of very different weights, it will be better for the extractor to use those of nearly equal weights on opposite sides, as the strain will be much less. Now take these combs to another colony, whose combs shall be replaced by them. Then close the hive, extract this second set of combs, and thus proceed till all the honey has been extracted. At the close, 212 Bee Tent. the one or two colonies from which the first combs were taken shall receive pay from the last set extracted, and thus, with much saving of time, little disturbance of bees, and the least invitation to robbing, in case there is no gathering, we have gone rapidly through the apiary. Some apiarists take the first set of combs from a single- colony and leave that colony without combs till they are through for the day. In case the bees are not gathering, we shall escape robbing and stings by use of the tent (Fig. 96). This covers the hive Fig. 96. A LTT Z Sh eT LAL Bee Tent. and operator. The one figured is,very ingenious in its con- struction, is light and cheap. Mr. Root sells it all made for use for one dollar. TO KEEP EXTRACTED HONEY. Extracted honey, if to be sold in cans or bottles, may be run into them from the extractor. The honey should be thick, and the vessels may be sealed or corked, and boxed at once. If large quantities of honey are extracted, it may be most conveniently kept in barrels. These should be first-class, and To Keep Extracted Honey. 213 ought to be waxed before using them, to make assurance doubly sure against any leakage. To wax the barrels, we may use beeswax, but paraffine is cheaper, and just as efficient. Three or four quarts of the hot paraffine or wax should be turned into the barrel, the bung driven in tight, the barrel twirled in every position, after which the bung is loosened by a blow with the hammer, and the residue of the wax turned out. Economy requires that the barrels be warm when waxed, so that only-a thin coat will be appropriated. Large tin cans, waxed and soldered at the openings after being filled, are cheap, and may be the most desirable recep- tacles for extracted honey. Extracted honey should always be kept in dry apartments. If thin when extracted, it should be kept in open barrels or cans in a warm dry room till it has thoroughly ripened. 214 Working for Comb-Honey. < CHAPTER XIII. WORKING FOR COMB-HONEY. While extracted honey has so much to recommend it, and is rapidly growing in favor with American apiarists, still such reports as that of Dr. C. C. Miller, who the past season in- creased his 174 colonies to 202, and took 16,000 pounds of comb honey in one pound sections, which netted him very nearly $3,000, and that of Mr. Doolittle, who has secured nearly 100 pounds of comb-honey per colony for a long series of years, may well lead us not to ignore this branch of our busi- ness. The showy horse, or the red short-horn, may not be in- trinsically superior to the less attractive animals ; but they will always win in the market. So comb-honey, in the beautiful one pound sections, will always attract buyers and secure the highest price. As more embark in the production of extract- ed honey, higher will be the price of the irresistible, incom- parable comb-honey. Well then may we study how to secure the most of this exquisite product of the bees, in a form that shall rival in attractiveness that of the product itself, for very likely the state of the market in some localities will make its production the most profitable feature of apiculture. POINTS TO CONSIDER. To secure abundance of comb-honey the colonies must be very strong, and the brood combs full of brood at the dawn of the honey harvest. The swarming fever must be kept at bay or cured, before the rapid storing commences, and the honey should be secured in the most attractive form. TO SECURE STRONG COLONIES. By feeding daily, whenever the bees are not storing, com- mencing as soon as the bees commence to store pollen, we shall almost certainly secure this result. We should also use the division board, and keep the bees crowded, especially if weak in the spring. Only give them the number of combs that they can cover. Keep them warmly covered above and on To Avoid Swarming. 215 the sides. True, Mr. Heddon objects to this work of feeding and manipulating division boards, and makes much honey and money. I have often wondered what his genius and skill” would accomplish should he vary his method in this respect. Instead of feeding by use of the Smith (Fig. 76) or other feeder, we may uncap a comb of honey and with it separate combs of brood as the bees get two or three full frames of the latter. This will stimulate the bees, and as they will carry the honey from the uncapped cells the queen will be impelled to most rapid laying. By turning around the brood combs, or sepa- rating them by adding combs with empty cells as the colonies gain in strength, we hasten brood rearing to the utmost. TO AVOID THE SWARMING FEVER. This is not always possible by any method, and has been the obstacle in the way of successful comb-honey production. The swarming impulse and great yields of this delectable pro- duct are entirely antagonistic. Mr. James Heddon, Davis, and others let the bees swarm. They hive these swarms on foundation, and hope to have this all done, and both colonies strong, in time for the honey harvest. Some of our best Mich- igan and New York hee-keepers, with Dr. Miller, let the bees swarm, and return them, either caging the queen or placing her in a nucleus for nine days, then return her to the bees, after cutting out the queen cells. This takes nothing from the energy of the bees, and will doubtless work best of all methods in the hands of the beginner. If increase is desired, however, then Mr. Heddon’s method should be followed. The yield of comb-honey in this last case will not usually be so great, though in excellent seasons it may be greater. Some very able bee-keepers manipulate so skillfully, by ad- ding empty combs to the hives, as to keep this swarming im- pulse in check, and still keep the bees increasing most’ rapid- ly. Others divide the colonies, and so hold at bay the swarm- ing fever. All must practice as their own experience proves best, as the same method will not have equal value with differ- ent persons. We must work as best we can to secure strong colonies, and check or retard the swarming fever, and while learning by experience to do this, may well work the most of our bees for extracted honey, which is more easily secured, 216 Starting Sections. and is sure to be in demand, even though the price is less. The quantity may more than compensate for lower price. ADJUSTMENT OF SECTIONS. As before suggested, 4 wide space between bottom-bars of sections—three-eighths inch—is desirable. The sections should be on at the very dawn of each honey harvest, as white clover, bass-wood, ete. At first the full set of sections better not be added, but as soon as the bees commence to work well in them, then all should be added, on side and top, if side storing is practiced, and if we wish to tier up, the crate of sections first added should be raised and others added below. As already stated it is best not to have the sections too closely shut in. Slight ventilation is desirable. If the queen troubles by entering the sections, use may be made of the perforated zinc (Fig. 60) to keep her from them. As already suggested, we must arrange the form and size of sections as the market and our hives and apparatus make most desirable. We may vary the size and form of our sections so as to make them smaller and yet use the same crates or frames that we used with larger sections. Small sections are most ready of sale, and safest to ship; yet with their use, we secure less honey. If we can get nice straight combs by having them less thick without using separators in the sections, so that these latter can be readily placed side by side in shipping crates, then we, by all means, better omit the separators. If we use separators, we can use wood or tin. Wood is cheapest, and I find that in practice it serves as well as tin. GETTING BEES INTO SECTIONS. The crowded hive or brood-chamber,. with no intent to swarm, the wide spaces between sections, and a rich harvest of nectar, will usually send the bees into the sections with a rush. If they refuse to go, a little drone brood, or the exchange of sections temporarily from above to the brood-nest, or the moy- ing of a brood-frame up beside the sections for a short time, as before described, will frequently start the bees into the sections: Some apiarists have their crates with sections so made that they can be placed between the brood frames till the bees commence to work in the sections; others accomplish the same end by in- | Removing Sections. 217 verting the frames. With experience will come the skill which can accomplish this, simply by management of the bees with- out resort to such measures as just described. E REMOVAL OF SECTIONS. The three-eighths inch space between the upper as well as the lower bars of the sections enables us to see quickly the condition of each section just by removal of the cover. Each — section should be removed as soon as capped, if we would have it very nice. Any delay will make it dark and hurt its sale. During the harvest we should add other sections to take the place of those removed. Towards the close of the harvest we should not add other sections, for, by contracting the space, the last sections will be moré surely filled and quickly capped. To remove the bees from single sections taken from frame or crate, we have only to brush them off. If we take a full crate at once, we can set it in a dark box or room, with some small opening for the bees to escape. If the hole is at one side and is covered by wire cloth, which should be separated from the box three-eighths of an inch, by placing lath between it and the box, and made to extend three inches above the opening, out- side bees will fail to enter while those within will readily pass out. I have used a box with no cover, and by spreading a sheet on this the bees would collect on the sheet. I would occasionally turn the sheet over. With the old boxes, such ar- rangements were more necessary. Now, with smokeand brush we can often dispense with other aids. As comb-honey is in better condition for market if it is stored for a few days where the air can circulate freely about it, it is always well'to fumigate it by burning sulphur in a close room or box. It is well to do this, even though the honey is to be immediately shipped. 218 Handling Bees. CHAPTER XIV. HANDLING BEES. But some one asks the question, shall we not receive those merciless stings, or be introduced to what ‘‘ Josh” calls the ‘‘business end of the bee?” Perhaps there is no more cause- . less or more common dread in existence than this of bees’ stings. When bees are gathering, they will never sting unless provoked. When at the hives—especially if Italians—they will rarely make an attack. The common belief, too, that some persons are more liable to attack than others, is, I think, erroneous. With the best opportunity to judge, with our hundreds of students, I think I may safely say that one is almost always as liable to attack as another, except that he is more quiet, or does not greet the usually amiable passer-by with those terrific thrusts, which would vanquish even a prac- ticed pugilist. Occasionally a person may have a peculiar odor about his person that angers bees and invites their darting tilts, with drawn swords, venom-tipped, yet, though I take my large classes each season, at frequent intervals, to see and handle the bees, each for himself, I still await the first proof of the fact that one person is more liable to be stung than another, providing each carries himself with that composed and dignified bearing that is so pleasing to the bees. True, some people, filled with dread, and the belief that bees regard them with special hate and malice, are so ready for the battle that they commence the strife with nervous head-shakes and beating of the air, and thus force the bees to battle, nolentes volentes. I be- lieve that only such are regarded with special aversion by the bees. Hence, I believe that no one need be stung. Bees should never be jarred, nor irritated by quick motions. Those with nervous temperaments—and I plead very guilty on this point—need not give up, but at first better protect their faces, and perhaps even their hands, till time and experience show them that fear is vain; then they will divest themselves of all such useless encumbrances. Bees are more cross when they are gathering no honey, and at such times, black bees and hybrids especially, are so irritable that even the expe- rienced apiarist will wish a veil. Bee Veil and Gloves. 219 THE BEST BEE-VEIL. This should be made of black tarlatan, sewed up like a bag, a half yard long, without top or bottom, and with a diameter of the rim of acommon straw-hat. Gather the top with braid, so that it will just slip over the crown of the hat—else, sew it to the edge of the rim of some cheap, cool hat, in fact, I prefer this style—and gather the bottom with rubber cord or rubber tape, so that it may be drawn over the hat rim, and then over the head, as we adjust the hat. Some prefer to dispense with the rubber cord at the bottom (Fig. 97), and have the veil long so as to be gathered in by the coat or dress. If the black tarlatan troubles by coloring Fie. 97. the shirt or collar, the lower part may be made of white net- ting. When in use, the rubber cord draws the lower part close about the neck, or the lower part tucks within the coat or vest (Fig. 97), and we are safe. This kind of a veil is cool, does not impede vision at all, and can be made by any woman at a cost of less than twefty cents. Common buck-skin or sheep-skin gloves can be used, as it will scarcely pay to get special gloves for the purpose, for the most timid person—I speak from experience—will soon consider gloves an unneces- sary nuisance. Special rubber gloves are sold by those who keep on hand apiarian supplies. It is reported that heavily starched linen 220 Ladies’ Dress. is proof against the bees’ sting, and so may be used for gloves or other clothing. Some apiarists think that dark clothing is specially obnoxious to bees. It is certainly true that fuzzy woolen, and even hairs on one’s hands are very irritating to bees. Clothes with a heavy nap should be rejected by the bee- keeper, and the Esaus should singe the hair from their hands. For ladies, my friend, Mrs. Baker, recommends a dress which, by use of the rubber skirt-lift or other device, can be instantly raised or lowered. This will be convenient in the apiary, and tidy anywhere. The Gabrielle style is preferred, and of a length just to reach the floor. It should be belted at the waist, and cut down from the neck in front, one-third the length of the waist, to permit the tucking in of the veil. The under-waist should fasten close about the neck. The sleeves should be quite long to allow free use of the arms, and gathered in with a rubber cord at the wrist, which will hug the rubber gauntlets or arm, and prevent bees from crawling up the sleeves. The pantalets should be straight and full, and — should also have the rubber cord in the hem to draw them close about the top of the shoes. Ne Mrs. Baker also places great stress on the wet ‘‘head-cap,” which she believes the men even would find a great comfort. This is a simple, close-fitting cap, made of two thicknesses of coarse toweling. The head is wet with cold water, and the cap wet in the same, wrung out, and placed on the head. Mrs. Baker would have the dress neat and clean, and so trimmed that the lady apiarist would ever be ready to greet her brother or sister apiarists. In such a dress there is no. danger of stings, and with it there is that show of neatness and taste, without which no pursuit could attract the attention, or at least the patronage, of our refined women. TO QUIET BEES. In harvest seasons, the bees, especially if Italians, can almost always be handled without their showing resentment. But at other times, and whenever they object to necessary familiarity, we have only to cause them to fill with honey to render them harmless, unless we pinch them. This can be done by closing the hive so that the bees cannot get out, and then rapping on the hive for four or five minutes. Those within will fill with honey, those without will be tamed by surprise, and all. The Smoker. 921 will be quiet. Sprinkling the bees with sweetened water will also tend to render them amiable, and will make them more ready to unite, to receive a queen, and less apt to sting. Still another method, more convenient, is to smoke the bees. A little smoke blown among the bees will scarcely ever fail to quiet them, though I have known black bees, inautumn, to be very slow to yield. The Syrian bees are maddened rather than quieted by use of smoke. I find, however, that with handling they soon become more like Italians. Deliberation is specially desirable when we first open the hive of Syrian bees. Dry cotton cloth, closely wound and sewed or tied, or, better, pieces of dry, rotten wood are excellent for the purpose of smoking. These are easily handled, and will burn for a long time. But best of all isa BELLOWS-SMOKER. This is a tin tube attached to a bellows. Cloth, corn-cobs, ‘or rotten wood (that which has been attacked by dry rot is the Fie. 99. Fig. 98. a best) can be burned in the tube, and will remain burning a long time. The smoke can be directed at pleasure, the bellows ‘easily worked, and the smoker used without any disagreeable effects or danger from fire. 222 To Smoke Bees. THE QUINBY SMOKER. re This smoker (Fig. 98, a) was a gift to bee-keepers by the late Mr. Quinby, and not patented; though I supposed it was, and so stated in a former edition of this work. Though a similar device had been previously used in Europe, without doubt Mr. Quinby was not aware of the fact, and as he was the person to bring it to the notice of bee-keepers, and to make . it so perfect as to challenge the attention and win the favor of apiarists instanter, he is certainly worthy of great praise, and deserving of hearty gratitude. This first smoker has been improved (Fig. 98, 6) in what is now sold as the Improved Quinby. Mr. Bingham was the first to improve the old Quinby smoker in establishing a direct draft (Fig. 99). Mr. Clark next added the cold draft (Fig. 100). Fia. 100. There are now several smokers on the market, each of which has its merits and its friends. No person who keeps even a single colony of bees, can afford to do without some one, of them. TO SMOKE BEES. Approach the hive, blow a little smoke in at the entrance, then open from above, and blow in smoke as required. If, at any time, the bees seem irritable, a few pufts from the smoker will subdue them. Thus, any person may handle his bees with perfect freedom and safety. If, at any time, the E Treatment of Stings. 223 fire-chamber and escape-pipe of the smoker become filled with soot, they can easily be cleaned by revolving an iron or hard- _ wood stick inside of them. CHLOROFORM. Mr. Jones finds that chloroform is very useful in quieting bees. He putsa dry sponge in the tube of the smoker, then a sponge wet in chloroform—it takes but a few drops—then puts in another dry sponge. These dry sponges prevent the escape of the chloroform, except when the bellows is worked. Mr. Jones finds that bees partially stupified with chloroform receive queens without any show of ill-will. As soon as the bees begin to fall, the queen is put into the hive, and no more of the vapor added. I tried this last summer with perfect success. This was recommended years ago in Germany, but its use seems to have been abandoned. It is more than like- ly that Mr. Jones’ method of applying the ansethetic is what makes it more valuable. The smoker diffuses the vapor so that all bees receive it, and none get toomuch. I should use ether insteadof chloroform, as with higher animals it is a little more mild and safe. TO CURE STINGS. In case a person is stung, he should step back a little for a moment, as the pungent odor of the venom is likely to anger the bees and induce further stinging By forcing a little smoke from the smoker onto the part stung, we will obscure this odor. The sting should be rubbed off at once. I say rubbed, for we should not grasp it with the finger-nails, as :that crowds more poison into the wound. If the pain is such as to prove trouble- some, apply a little ammonia. The venom is an acid, and is neutralized by the alkali. A strong solution of saltpetre I have found nearly as good to relieve pain as the ammonia. Ice cold water drives the blood from any part of our body to which it is applied, and so it often gives relief to quickly immerse the part stung in very cold water. In case horses are badly stung, as sometimes happens, they should be taken as speedily as possible into a barn (a man, too, may escape angry bees by entering a building), where the ‘bees will seldom follow, then wash the horses in soda water, and cover with blankets - wet in cold water. \ 224 Bee Tent. THE SWEAT THEORY. It is often stated that sweaty horses and people are obnoxious to the bees, and hence almost sure targets for their barbed arrows. In warm weather I perspire most profusely, yet am scarcely ever stung, since I have learned to control my nerves. I once kept my bees in the front yard—they looked beautiful on the green lawn—within two rods of a main thoroughfare, and not infrequently let my horse, covered with sweat upon my.return from a drive, crop the grass, while cooling off, right in the same yard. Of course, there was some danger, but I never knew my horse to get stung. Why, then, the theory? May not the more frequent stings be consequent upon the warm, nervous condition of the individual? The man is more ready to strike and jerk, the horse to stamp and switch. The switching of the horse’s tail, like the whisker trap of a full beard, will anger even a good-natured bee. I should dread the motions more than the sweat, though it may be true that there is a peculiarity in the odor from either the sensible or insensible perspiration of some persons, that angers the bees and provokes the use of their terrible weapons. Often when there is no honey to gather, as when we take the last honey in autumn, or prepare the bees for winter, the bees are inordinately cross. This is especially true of black bees and hybrids. At such times I have found an invaluable aid in THE BEE TENT. This also keeps all robbers from mischief. It is simply a tent which entirely covers the hive, bees, bee-keeper and all. The one I use (Fig. 101) is light, large, and easily moved, or folded up if we wish to put it in the house. The sides are rectangular frames made of light pine strips, well placed (Fig. 101, 6, 6), and covered with wire cloth. The top and ends are covered with factory cloth, except at one end, where it is fastened at will by rings which hook over screws. The sides have no permanent connection of wood except at the ends (Fig. 101, ¢, ¢). The small strips which connect at these places are double, and hinged to the side frames, and the two parts of each hinged together. Thus these may drop, and so permit the side frames to come close together when we wish to ‘‘fold our tent.” The sides are kept apart by center cross- Bee Tent. 225 é strips at the ends (Tig. 101, a, a), from which braces (Fig. 101, i, i) extend to the double cross-strips above. These Fia. 101. Y} 4) (pi 1} yy VAT MEY Mh WAY DUM KI, LO y Bee Tent. center strips, with their braces hinged to them, are separate from the rest of the frame except when hooked on, as we spread the*tent. After use of this’ tent one season, I can not praise it too highly. I have already referred to a cheap tent made by Mr. A. I. Root (Fig. 96). 15 226 Comb Foundation. CHA PTE RX. COMB FOUNDATION. Every apiarist of experience knows that empty combs in frames, comb-guides in the sections, to tempt the bees and to insure the proper position of the full combs, in fact, combs of almost any kind or shape, are of great importance. So every skillful apiarist is very careful to save all drone-comb that is cut out of the brood-chamber—where it is worse than useless, as it brings with it myriads of those useless gormands, the - drones—to kill the eggs, remove the brood, or extract the honey, and transfer it to the sections. He is equally care- ful to keep all his worker-comb, so long as the cells are of proper size to domicile full-sized larve, and never to sell any comb, or even comb-honey, unless a much greater price makes it desirable. No wonder, then, if comb is so desirable, that German thought and Yankee ingenuity have devised means of giving the bees at least a start in this important, yet expensive work of comb-building, and hence the origin of another great aid to the apiarist—comb foundation (Fig. 102). HISTORY. For more than twenty-five years the Germans have used im- pressed sheets of wax as a foundation for comb, as it was first made by Herr Mehring, in 1857. These sheets are four or five times as thick as the partition at the center of natural comb, which is very thin, only 1-180 of an inch thick. This = American Foundation. 227 is pressed between metal plates so accurately formed that the wax receives rhomboidal impressions which are a fac simile of the basal wall or partition between the opposite cells of natural comb. The thickness of this sheet is no objection, as it is found that the bees almost always thin it down to the natural thickness, and use the shavings to form the walls. AMERICAN FOUNDATION. Mr. Wagner secured a patent on foundation in 1861, but as the article was already in use in Germany, the patent was, as we understand, of no legal value, and certainly, as it did nothing to bring this desirable article into use, it had no virtual value. Mr. Wagner was also the first to suggest the idea of rollers. In Langstroth’s work, edition of 1859, p. 873, occurs the following, in reference to printing or stamping combs: ‘‘Mr. Wagner suggests forming these outlines with a simple instrument somewhat like a wheel cake cutter. When a large number are to be made, a machine might easily be constructed which would stamp them with great rapidity.” In 1866, the King Brothers, of New York, in accordance with the above suggestion, made the first machine with rollers, the product of which they tried to get patented but failed. These stamped rollers were less than two inches long. This machine was use- less, and failed to bring foundation into general use. In 1874, Mr. Frederick Weiss, a poor German, invented the machine which brought the foundation into general use. His machine had lengthened rollers—they being six inches long—and shallow grooves between the pyramidal projections, so that there was a very shallow cell raised from the basal im- pression as left by the German plates. This was the machine on which was made the beautiful and practical foundation sent out by ‘‘ John Long,” in 1874 and 1875, and which proved to the American apiarists that foundation machines, and foun- - dation, were to be a success. I used some of this early foun- dation, and have been no more successful with that made by the machines of to-day. To Frederick Weiss, then, are Ameri- eans and the world indebted for this invaluable aid to the aplarist. . In 1876, Mr. A. I. Root commenced in his energetic, enthu- silastic way, and soon brought the roller machine and foundation into general use. These machines, though a great aid to api- 228 Dunham Machine. culture, were still imperfect, and though sold at an extrava- gantly high price—through no fault of Mr. Root, as he informs me—were in great demand. Next, Mrs. F. Dunham greatly improved the machine by so making the rolls (Fig. 103) that Fic. 103. the foundation would have a very thin base and high thick walls which, in the manufacture, were not greatly pressed. These three points are very desirable in all foundation—thin base and thick, high walls, which shall not be compactly pressed. Mrs. Dunham is not only entitled to gratitude for the supe- rior excellence of the machines she manufactured, but by put- ting so excellent a machine onto the market at a lower price, all roller machines had to be sold more reasonably. Mr. Van- dervort also improved the rollers, so that his machine secures the same results as does Mrs. Dunham’s, while the form of the foundation is somewhat more natural, though not preferred by the bees I think. Another form of foundation—that with flat bottom—is made by the VanDeusen mill. This has a very thin base, and is very handsome. It was made to use with wires. In mf experience this flat bottom foundation is not as acceptable to the bees as the other kinds. Mr. Root has kept his machine abreast with the latest improvements. Mr. Pel- ham has invented rolls that are made in rings or sections, Press for Foundation. 229 each ring the width of a cell. Such rolls, if they work well, and I see no reason why they should not, will reduce the price of machines so that all—even small apiarists—can afford to own them. THE PRESS FOR FOUNDATION. Mr. D. A. Given, of Illinois, has given a press (Fig. 104) that stamps the sheets by plates and not by rolls, which, at Fie. 104. present, is giving better satisfaction than even the improved roller machines. This shuts up like a book and the wax sheets, instead of passing between carved metal rollers, are stamped by a press after being placed in position. The advantages of this press as claimed by its friends—which seem to number all who have used it—are that the foundation has the requisites already referred to, par excellence, that it is easily and rapidly worked, and that foundation can at once be pressed into the wired frames. Rubber plates have also been made but as yet have not won general favor or acceptance. All of these improved machines give us foundation of exquisite mold and with such rapidity that it can be made cheap and 230 Foundation Making. practical. As Mr. Heddon says, the bees in two days, with foundation, will do more than they would in eight days with- out it. Every one who wishes the best success must use founda- tion not only in the brood chamber but in sections. Whoever has 100 colonies of bees may well own a machine for himself. HOW FOUNDATION IS MADE. The process of making the foundation is very simple. Thin sheets of wax, of the desired thickness, are pressed between the plates or passed between the rolls, which are made so asto stamp either drone or worker foundation as desired. Worker is best I think even fér sections. The only aifficulty in the way of very rapid work is that from sticking of the wax sheets to the dies. Mr. Heddon finds that by wetting the dies with concentrated lye the wax is not injured and sticking is pre- vented. Mr. Jones uses soap suds with excellent success for the same purpose. - Think of two men running through fifty pounds of foundation in an hour! That is what I saw two men do at Mr. Jones’, with a Dunham machine by use of soap suds. The man who put in the wax sheets was not delayed at all. The kind of soap should be selected with care. Mr. Root prefers common starch to either lye or soap-suds. New machines are more liable to trouble with sticking than are those that have been used for some time. TO SECURE THE WAX SHEETS. The wax should be melted in a double walled tin vessel, “with water between the walls, so that in no case would it be burned or over heated. To form the sheets a dipping board of the eae and length of the desired sheets, is the best. It should be made of pine, and should be true and very smooth. This is first dipped into cold water, then one end is dipped quickly into the melted wax, then raised till dripping ceases—only a second—this end dipped into the cold water, grasped by means of a dextrous toss with the hands and the other end treated the same way. The thing is repeated if necessary till the sheet is thick enough, Twice dipping is enough for brood combs, once for sections. We now only have to shave the edges with a sharp knife, and we can peel off two fine sheets of wax. This is Mr. Jones’ plan and is better than to dip only one end of the board, as in that case the wax runs down the board and the sheets are : } o Soot * Pr. 2 ~ Use of Foundation. ; 231 thickest at one end. With the device of Mr. Jones the wax runs to the ends, and to make the middle as thick, the board is lowered in the melted wax below the centre. At Mr. Jones’ I saw one man dip the sheets as fast as two men could run them through the machine. Mr. Heddon, who has used nearly all of the roller machines, thinks Given’s press can be used more easily and rapidly than any of them. This seems to me hardly possible, yet we must remember that the press puts the founda- tion right into the wired frames. Surely Mr. Jones’ accom- plishment with the Dunham Mill leaves little to be desired. For cutting foundation, nothing is so admirable as the Car- lin cutter (Fig. 105, a), which is like the wheel glass-cutters Fig. 105. Fig. 106. sold in the shops, except that a larger wheel of tin takes the place of the one of hardened steel. Mr. A. I. Root has suggested a grooved board (Fig-105, b) to go with the above, the dis- tance between the grooves being equal to the desired width of the strips of comb foundation to be cut. For cutting smaller sheets for the sections the same device may: be used. I saw Mr. Jones cut these as fast as a boy would cut circular wads for his shot-gun, by use of a sort of modified cake cutter (Fig. 106). USE OF FOUNDATION.. An empty frame should never be put in the brood chamber. Even if foundation was one dollar a pound it still would pay richly to use it. It is astonishing to see how rapidly the bees will extend the cells, and how readily the queen will stock them with eggs if of the right size, five cells to the inch. 232 “ How to use Foundation. aes: The foundation should always be the right size either for worker or — drone-comb. Of course the latter size would never be used in the brood-chamber. I much doubt if it is wise to use it at all. The advantage of foundation is, first, to insure worker- comb, and thus worker-brood, and second, to furnish wax, so 3 that the bees may be free to gather honey. We have proved in our apiary repeatedly, that by use of foundation, and a lit- tle care in pruning out the drone-comb, we could limit or even exclude drones from our hives, and we have but to examine ; the capacious and constantly crowded stomachs of these idlers oil to appreciate the advantage of such a course. Bees may oc- ; casionally tear down worker-cells, and build drone-cells in their place; but such action, I believe, is not sufficiently extensive to ever cause anxiety. I am also certain that bees that have to secrete wax to form comb, do much less gathering. Wax — secretion seems voluntary, and when rapid seems to require quiet and great consumption of food. If we make two artifi- cial colonies equally strong, supply the one with combs, and withhold them from the other, we will find that this last sends far less bees to the fields, while all the bees are more or less engaged in wax secretion. Thus the other colony gains much more rapidly in honey, first, because more bees are stor- ing; second, because less food is consumed. This is undoubt- ae edly the reason why extracted’ honey can be secured in far : greater abundance than can comb-honey. i) Unless the frames are wired, the foundation should only touch the top of the frame where it is securely fastened. If i wired, the frames should be full. a It also pays remarkably well to use foundation in the sec- tions. With proper care, all talk about ‘‘the fish bone” need not frighten any one. Foundation for the sections should be about seven feet to the pound, while that for the brood-chamber is better at five feet. The foundation should fill the sections. Of course, foundation for the sections—in fact all foundation— should only be made of nicest, cleanest wax. Only pure, clean, unbleached wax should be used in making foundation. We should be very careful not to put on the market any comb-honey where the foundation has not been properly thinned by the bees. Perhaps a very fine needle would enable one to determine this point without injury to the honey. With our present foun- dation there is little danger. 2 To Fasten Foundation. 233 TO FASTEN THE FOUNDATION. In the thin sections, the foundation can best be fastened by use of the melted wax. To accomplish this, I have used a block made thus: Saw a board that is one-half of an inch thinner than half the depth of the section, so that it will just exactly fit in the section. Screw this to a second board, which is one-half inch broader each way, so that the larger under board will project one-quarter of an inch each side the top board. Now set the section over the top board, place the foundation, cut a trifle shorter than the inside of the section, within, close to the top and one side of the section, and cause ~ it to adhere by running on a little of the melted wax, which, by use of a kerosene lamp or stove, may be kept melted. If the basin is double-walled, with water in the outer chamber and wax in the inner, it is much safer, as then the wax will never burn. A warm iron run on the foundation just at the edge, will also glue it to the section. If the tops of the sections are thick, they may be grooved, and by crowding the foundation into the groove, and, if neces- sary, pressing it with a thin wedge, it will be securely held. This last method will work nicely in case of fastening into the brood-frames. But I have found that I could fasten them rapidly and very securely by simply pressing them against the rectangular projection from the top-bar already described. In this case a block (Fig. 107, a) should reach up into the frame from the side which is nearest to the rectangular projection— it will be remembered that the projection (Fig. 45) is a little to one side of the center of the top-bar, so that the foundation shall hang exactly in the center—so far that its upper surface would be exactly level with the upper surface of the rectangu- lar projection. This block, like the one described above, has shoulders (Fig. 107, ¢), so that it will always reach just the proper distance into the frame. It is also rabbeted at the edge where the projection of the top-bar of the frame will rest (Fig. - 107, 6), so that the projection has a solid support, and will not split off with pressure. We now set our frame on this block, lay on our foundation, cut the size we desire, which, unless strengthened, will be as long as the frame, and nearly as wide. The foundation will rest firmly on the projection and block, and touch the top-bar at every point. We now take a board as thick as the projection is deep, and as wide 234. To Fasten Foundation. (Fig. 108, d) as the frame is long, which may be trimmed off, so as to have a convenient handle (Fig. 108, e), and by wetting the edge of this (Fig. 108, d) either in water, or, better, starch-water, and pressing with it on the foundation Fig. 107. " Fig. 108. above the projection, the foundation will be made to adhere firmly to the latter, when the frame may be raised with the block, taken off, and another fastened as before. I have prac- | ticed this plan for years, and have had admirable success. I have very rarely Known the foundation to drop if made of good wax, though it, must be remembered that our hives are — shaded, and our frames small. The above methods are successful, but probably will receive valuable modifications at the hands of the ingenious apiarists Fig. 109. ‘ of our land.” If we have frames with the V shaped top-bar (Fig. 44), we may easily break the foundation and press it on, as shown in Fig. 109. : Wired Frames. : 235 WIRED FRAMES. But as foundation does sometimes fall or sag, so that many cells are changed to drone-cells, or warp into awkward shapes, especially if the hive is unshaded, or receives a full colony of bees with all its frames full of foundation, and as the wax is sometimes so brittle that it will not hold together, however well fastened, wired frames (Fig. 110) are rapidly coming into Fie. 110. use. Another point strongly in favor of such frames is, that they can be handled or shipped, and there is not the least danger of their combs fallmg from the frames. -The wires should be two inches apart, and the extreme wires not more than one- half inch from the side of the frame. They may be fastened by passing through holes in the top and bottom bars of the frames, which must be exactly in the center, or they may be hooked over little hooks, such as’may be made by driving a staple into the frame after we have cut one limb of the staple off near the curve. If holes are to be made through the top bars of the frame, they can be easily formed by use of sharp awls. If these are set in a strong block like an iron rake, each bar can be pierced at one stroke by use of a lever press. If the foundation is to be stamped in the frame by the Given Press, then the wire should be No. 36; if it isto be put on by hand, then No. 30 must be used. Tinned wire should be used. Some, even with the Given Press, prefer to put the foundation onto the wires by hand. In this case the foundation should be warmed till quite soft, then laid on the wires, and by use of a shoe-buttoner, with a longitudal groove cut into the con- vex side of the curve, pressed onto the wires. This work is easily and rapidly performed. f SAVE THE WAX. As foundation is becoming so popular, it behooves us all to be very careful that no old comb goes to waste. Even now 236 ’ To Save the Wax. the supply of wax in the country is scarce equal to the demand. Soiled drone-comb, old, worthless worker-comb, all the comb in the old hives if we use Mr. Heddon’s method of transferring, and all fragments that cannot be used in the hives, together with cappings, after the honey is drained out through a coarse bag or colander—which process may be hastened by a moderate heat, not sufficient to melt the wax, and frequent stirring— should be melted, cleansed, and molded into cakes of wax, soon to be again stamped, not by the bees, but by wondrous art. METHODS. A slow and wasteful method is to melt in a vessel of heated water, and to purify by turning off the top, or allowing to cool, when the impurities at the bottom are scraped off, and the process repeated till all impurities are eliminated. A better method to separate the wax is to put it into a strong, rather coarse bag, then sink this in water and boil. At intervals the comb in the bag should be pressed and stirred. The wax will collect on top of the water. To prevent the wax from burning, the bag should be kept from touching the bottom of the vessel by inverting a basin in the bottom of the latter, or else by using a double-walled vessel. The process should be repeated till the wax is perfectly cleansed. But as wax is to become so important, and as the above methods are slow, wasteful, and apt to give a poor quality of Bree, Wie piu Swiss Wax Extractor. wax, specialists, and even amateurs who keep as many as ten or twenty colonies of bees, may well procure a wax extractor (Fig. 111). This is also a foreign invention, the first being Wax Extractors. 236 made by Prof. Gerster, of Berne, Switzerland. These cost from five to seven dollars, are made of tin, are very conveni- ent and admirable, and can be procured of any dealer in api- arian supplies. The comb is placed in the perforated vessel, and this in the larger can, which is set on a kettle of boiling water. The clean, pure wax passes out the spout. Mr. Jones has improved the common wax extractor (Fig. 112). This is what he Fie 112. : TIT eat il Doria a : he | sult fini th nt says of it: ‘‘ Put extractor on stove in the same manner as an ordinary pot, having beforehand filled lower tank with water, and the perforated basket above tank with broken comb or whatever material you wish to extract wax from. The steam passes through perforated metal walls of basket, melting every particle of wax from the crude material; the wax runs out of a spout for the purpose, turned downwards; under this spout have a receptacle, which have slightly oiled, to keep wax from adhering to its walls. The tube turned upwardsserves two very important purposes, viz.: to fill water into lower tank, and to 238 ; To Secure Wax. see if tank requires replenishing, without taking out the basket above. Keep everything but tube for wax closed, in order to © lose no steam and give it full force. When not in use as an extractor it is excellent as a capping can; the cappings drop into basket, the honey drains off, leaving the remainder just where you want them to extract from.” By this invention all the wax, even of the oldest combs, can be secured, in beautiful condition, and as it is perfectly neat, there is no danger of provoking the ‘‘best woman in the world,” as we are in danger of doing by use of either of the above methods—for what is more untidy and perplexing than to have wax boil over on the stove, ‘and perhaps get on the floor, and be generally scattered about! All pieces of comb should be put into a close box, and if any larvee are in it, the comb should be melted so frequently that it will not smell badly. By taking pains, both in collect- ing and melting, the apiarist will be surprised at the close of the season, as he views his numerous and beautiful cakes of wax, and rejoice as he thinks how little trouble it has all cost. Marketing Honey. 239 CHAPTER XVI. MARKETING HONEY. No subject merits more attention by the apiarist than that of marketing honey. ‘There is no question but that the supply is going to continually increase, hence, to sustain the price we must stimulate the demand, and by doing this we shall not _ only supply the people with a food element which is necessary to health, but we shall also supersede in part the commercial syrups, which are so adulterated as not only to be crowded with filth the most revolting, but are often even teeming with poison. (Report of Michigan Board of Health for 1874, pp. 75-79.) To bring, then, to our neighbor’s table the pure, wholesome, delicious nectar, right from the hive, is philan- thropy, whether he realizes it or not. Nor is it difficult to stimulate the demand. I have given special attention to this topic for the last few years, and am free to say that not a tithe of the honey is consumed in our country that might and should be. HOW TO INVIGORATE THE MARKET. _ First. See that no honey goes to market from your apiary that is not in the most inviting form possible. Grade all the honey thoroughly, and expect prices to correspond with the grade. See that every package and vessel is not only attract- ive, but so arranged as not to make the dealer any trouble or cause him any vexation. One leaky can or crate may do great injury. Second. See that every grocer in your vicinity has honey constantly on hand. Do all you can to build up a home mar- ket. The advice to sell to only one or two dealers is, I think, wrong. Whether we are to buy or sell, we shall find almost always that it will be most satisfactory to deal with men whom we know, and who are close at hand. Only when you out- grow your home market should you ship to distant places. This course will limit the supply in large cities, and thus raise the prices in the great marts, whose prices fix those in the country. Be sure to keep honey constantly in the markets. 240 Extracted Honey. Third. Insist that each grocer make the honey very con- spicuous. If necessary, supply large, fine labels, with your own name almost as prominent as is that of the article. Fourth. Deliver the honey in small lots, so that it will be sure to be kept in inviting form, and, if possible, attend to the delivery yourself, that you may know that all is done “*decently and in order.” Fifth. Instruct your grocers that they may make the honey show to the best effect, and thus captivate the purchaser through the sight alone. Sixth. Call local and general conventions, that all in the com- munity may know and practice the best methods, so that the markets may not be demoralized by poor, unsalable honey. It is of the greatest importance to encourage State, inter- State, and National Associations. Happily, our civilization makes every person effected by the acts of each person. Self- ishness, not less than Christianity, urges us all to be interest- ed in each other. The honey traffic reaches from State to State. Bee-keeping will never be perfect as an art till all bee- keepers act as one man. He is short-sighted that decries con- ventions. It is the experience of the world that they are val- uable in other arts. Bee-keeping is no exception. Let usall urge that the associations act in unison, from the local to the general, that all other apiarian interests no less than the mar- kets shall be in the highest degree fostered. Each associa- tion, from the most local to the most general, has its special mission which no other can perform. PREPARATION FOR MARKETS. Of course, the method of preparation will depend largely upon the style of honey to be sold, so we will consider these kinds separately. EXTRACTED HONEY. As before intimated, extracted honey has all the flavor, and is in every way equal, if not superior—comb itself is innutri- tious and very indigestible, to comb-honey. When people once know its excellence—know that it is not ‘‘strained”— then the demand for this article will be vastly increased, to the advantage both of the consumer and the apiarist. Explain to each grocer what we mean by the word extract- ea wh Ro Honey Receptacles. 241 ed, and ask him to spread wide the name and character of the honey. Leave cups of honey with the editors and men of in- fluence, and get them to discuss its origin and merits. I speak from experience, when I say that in these ways the reputa- tion and demand for extracted honey can be increased to a sur- prising degree, and with astonishing rapidity. HOW TO TEMPT THE CONSUMER. First. Havyeé it chiefly in small cups or pails. Many per- sons will pay twenty-five cents for an article, when if it cost fifty cents they would not think of purchasing. Second. Study the kinds of receptacles that will take best with the buyers. Some persons will prefer such vessels as jel- ly cups or glass fruit jars, etc., that will be useful in every household when the honey is gone. Others will prefer more ree is: showy vessels, like the Muth one pound and two pound jars (Fig 113), even though they cost more. At present the neat tin pails (Fig. 114) holding from one-half pound to twelve pounds, are very popular in the markets. The covers shut BiG roti a Co hu TET Stine i ———— i i D Ne UU A Yi Cae UT inside, and if the honey is granulated they are very excellent. The bails make them more convenient and salable. Mr. Jones has a pail that is easily sealed with wax strings, and is beautifully decorated with chromoed labels. Such pails are 16 242 ; Honey Receptacles. o cheap, convenient, and leave little to be desired. Their beau- ty aids the sale. Mr. A. I. Root pronounces them the best” receptacle for extracted honey. If the honey is to be sent to a distant market it should be in soft wood—spruce, pine, or hemlock—kegs (Fig. 115). TG: TS) These are lighter than barrels, and by thorough soaking in water before use they need no waxing. Hard wood barrels must be waxed, then if the honey granulates the hoops must be loosened to take out the head. This cracks the wax and a leak results. _ Third. Explain to the grocer that 1f kept above the tem- perature of 70° or 80° F., it will not granulate, that _granula- tion is a pledge of purity and superiority, and show him how easy it is to reduce the crystals, and ask him to explain this to his customers. If necessary, liquify some of the granulated honey in his presence. Put on the labels directions for reli- quifying candied honey. Honey, like many other substances, will not granulate if heated to 200° F., and then sealed while hot. This does no injury to the honey, but it is trouble, and makes the honey less convenient to ship, though at times it may pay till we educate our patrons in reference to the excel- lence of. granulated honey. Lastly. If you do not deliver the honey yourself, be sure that the vessels will not leak in transit. It is best, in case jelly cups are used, that they be filled at the grocery. And do not forget the large label, which gives the kind of honey, grade, and producer’s name. If the honey is extracted before it is fully ripened—before the bees cap it—it should always be kept in an open can or barrel, covered with cloth, and in a warm room. Thus ar- ranged it will thicken as well as in the hive. No honey shold ever be kept in a cool, damp room. The admirable work of Mr. C. F. Muth in Cincinnati, ed- > To Market Comb-Honey. 243. ucating people in reference to extracted honey, fighting all adulteration, pushing it into the candy, tobacco, and confectiona- ry establishments, deserves our hearty evatitude. Mr. Muth’s market has become stupendous, and graphically shows what this trade is to be in the near future, when all our cities have a Muth to work for us. I would also recommend to all the very valuable little pamphlet of Mr. Chas. Dadant, on the production and sale of extracted honey. It is most interest- ing reading to the honey producer, and shows what enerey and thought may accomplish in this direction. COMB-HONEY. This, from its wondrous beauty, especially when lght- colored and immaculate, will always be a coveted article for the table, and will ever, with proper care, bring the highest price paid for honey. So it will always be best to work for this, even though we may not be able to procure it in such © ample profusion as we may the extracted. He who has all kinds will be able to satisfy every demand, and will most surely meet with success. RULES TO BE OBSERVED. This, too, should be chiefly in small sections (Fig. 55) for, as_hefore stated, such are the packages that surely sell. Sec- tions from three to six inches square will just fill a plate nicely, and look very tempting to the proud housewife, espec- ially if some epicurean friends are to be entertained. The sections should surely be in place at the dawn of the white clover season, so that the apiarist may secure the most of this irresistible nectar, chaste as if capped by the very snow itself. They should be taken away as soon as capped, as delay makes them highways of travel for the bees, which always mars their beauty. ’ When removed, if demanded, glass the sections, but before this we should place them in hives one upon another, or special boxes made tight, with a close cover, m which to store ‘either brood-frames in winter or sections at any season, and fume them with burning sulphur. This is quickly and easily done by use of the smoker. Get the fire in the smoker well to burning, add the sulphur, then place this in the top hive, or top of the special box. The sulphurous fumes will descend 244 - Shipping Crates. and deal out death to all moth larvee. This should always be done before shipping the honey, if we regard our reputations as precious. It is well to do this immediately upon removal, and also two weeks after, so as to destroy the moth larve not hatched when the sections are removed. If separators have been used, these sections are in good con- dition to be glassed, and are also in nice shape to ship even without glass, as they may stand side by side and not mar the i comb. | The shipping-crate (Fig. 116) should be strong, neat and cheap, with handles as seen in Fig. 116—such handles are also Rie uiG: y 1 y convenient in the ends of the hives, and can be cut in an in- stant by having the circular-saw set to wabble. With handles the crate is more convenient, and is more sure to be set on its bottom. The crate should also be glassed, as the site of the .- comb will say: ‘‘Handle with care.” tae Mr. Heddon makes a larger crate (Fig. 117), which is neat and cheap. Muth’s erate is like Heddon’s, only smaller. It may be well to wrap the sections in paper, as thus break- age of one will not mean general ruin. In shipping in freight cars, it is desirable that the sections a be set lengthwise of the cars, as the danger from the shocks of ~ a starting and stopping will be much less. : In groceries, where the apiarist keeps honey for sale, it will pay him to furnish his own boxes. These should be made of white wood, very neat and glassed in front to show the honey, and the cover so fixed that unglassed sections—and these, probably, will soon become the most popular—cannot be punched or fingered. Be sure, too, that the label, with kind of honey, grade and name of apiarist, be so plain that - ‘the who runs may read.” Selling Queens. 245 Comb-honey that is to be kept in the cool weather of autumn, or the cold of winter, must be kept in warm rooms, or the comb will break from the sections when handled. By Fig. 117. keeping it quite warm for some days previous to shipment, it may be sent to market even in winter, but must be handled very carefully, and must make a quick transit. Above all, let ‘‘taste and neatness” ever be your motto. MARKETING BEES. Before leaving this subject, let me say a word about selling bees. SELLING QUEENS. . a As queen rearing and shipping have already been sufficient- ly described, it only remains to be said that the vender of queens can not be too prompt or fair or cautious. Success no less than morality demands the most perfect honesty. If, for any reason, queens can not be sent promptly, the money should at once be returned, explanation made, and, if reason- able, delay may be requested. The breeder who by careful selection, and care in following the rules of breeding, shall secure a type of bees pronounced in excellence, has won in the - race. I have described shipping bees. The rules just given should guide here also. 246 Vinegar from Honey. SELLING BEES BY THE POUND. This is now quite a business. The bees are put, by use of a large tin tunnel, into a cage (Fig. 118) made of sections as 4 LL7LT LIS A AQQQUUUUELLULAMGANA ALATA CA shown in the figure. The handle makes it easy to carry them, and they get careful handling without any special request. VINEGAR FROM HONEY. Mr. T. F. Bingham utilizes the cappings secured while ex- tracting, to produce wax and a most excellent quality of yvin- egar. The honey is drained from the cappings, which are then covered for an hour or two with water. The cappings from 1,000 pounds of honey will sweeten enough water for 45 gal- lons of vinegar. The water is now drained into an open bar- rel, which should be kept covered with cloth. The scumshould be removed as it rises.. In about a year the change to first- class vinegar will have been accomplished. After the water is drained from the cappings they can be converted into pure wax, as already described. FAIRS AND THE MARKET. Our English friends have demonstrated that large honey ex- hibitions are a most powerful aid. in developing the honey market. Till within two years our American honey exhibits haye been a disgrace and a hindrance, and they are largely so to- day. A little second-rate honey sandwiched in with sugar a Fairs. 247 and syrups, and supplemented by a cake or two of black dirty wax, describes the honey exhibit at most of our fairs to- day. The premiums range from. twenty-five cents to fifty cents. WHAT SHOULD WE HAVE? Our industry demands a separate building, filled with tons, not pounds, of honey, and exhibiting every thing that is valu- able in modern apiculture. In one corner of the building there should be a room (Fig. 119) partitioned off with mesqui- Hig. 119: | / Mises i ie Me — to netting, or wire cloth, where the bees should be exhibited, and where daily manipulation at a certain time should take place. Openings through the wall of the building (Fig. 120, B. C. ete.) should permit the bees to fly entirely outside the building, or if the building is at the margin of the grounds entirely outside the limits of the fair. It should be arranged with the managers that sales of honey and all apparatus be 248 Fairs. made at any time at this building, on conditions that the ex- hibit should be in nowise interfered with. The premiums Fie. 120. es eae On SDS A! ee ee a ee ee should range from one dollar to twenty, and the total should reach to the hundreds. We find here in Michigan that all that is necessary to effect this grand and invaluable transformation is a little life and energy on the part of the bee-keepers. EFFECTS OF SUCH EXHIBITS. They would show that apiculture is no second rate business. They would attract attention and educate as nothing else would. They would go hand in hand with local conventions in instructing bee-keepers so that no inferior honey would go onto the markets. They would enable bee-keepers to see and buy just what they need in the more intelligent prosecution of their business. They would scatter the little pint, half-pint,- and gill pails of honey into thousands of homes, and develop a knowledge and taste that would stimulate the honey market A most powerfully. Tons of honey have been sold at the Toronto - = Fairs, the influence of which has been a lasting surprise even to the most enterprising producers. I believe that the great quartet that is to advance apiculture is fairs, associations, planting for honey, and improved bees. Tulip Tree Louse. 249 Ci A PAM: XO VAT HONEY PLANTS. As bees are dependent mainly upon flowers for honey, it of course follows that the apiarist’s success will depend largely upon the abundance of honey-secreting plants in the vicinity of his apiary. True it is that certain bark and plant lice secrete a kind of liquid sweet—honey of doubtful reputation— which, in the dearth of anything better, the bees seem glad to appropriate. I have thus seen the bees thick about a large bark-louse which attacks the tulip tree, and thus often destroys one of our best honey trees. _ I have described this insect (Fig. 121) under the name of Lecanium,. Tulipifera. In 1870 it did no small injury to our Fie. 121. Tulip-Tree Bark Louse. 1—Scale on Twig. 2—Under side of Scale. 3, Mees Lice. 6—Antenna. eg. 250 Larch Louse. tulip trees here at the college. It has seriously injured this — tree in the states bordering the Ohio river. The tulip is often _ called poplar, which is quite incorrect. The poplar belongs to the willow family, the tulip to the magnolia. This louse is of double interest to bee-keepers. It ruins one of our best honey trees, and supplies a poor substitute for plant nectar to the f bees. All bark lice, which include the orange tree scale lice ii of the south, are best destroyed by use of whale oil soap— strong solution—or kerosene oil. This latter is best applied in - ; F the form of an emulsion, with soap solution or milk. Whit- i man’s Fountain Pump is admirable for making such applica- i. tions. F Ss I have also seen the bees thick about several species of plant er lice. One, the Evisoma imbricator, Fitch, works on the beech : tree. Its abdomen is thickly covered with long wool, and it~ : makes a comical show as it wags this up and down uponthe = least disturbance. The leaves of trees attacked by this louse, Bae: as also those beneath the trees, are fairly gummed with a 4 sweetish substance. I have found that the bees avoid this substance, except at times of extreme drouth and long pro- tracted absence of honeyed bloom. P ; Another species, Thalaxes ulmicola, gives rise to certain soli- “= tary galls, which appear on the upper surface of the leaves of E the red elm. These galls are hollow, with a thin skin, and a within the hollows are the lice, which secrete an abundant a sweet that often attracts the bees to a feast of fat things, asthe = = gall is torn apart, or cracks open, so that the sweet exudes. This sweet is anything but disagreeable, and may not be un- a wholesome to the bees. The larch louse, Lachnus larieis, se- - cretes a liquid that is greedily taken by the bees. Another of the aphides, of a black hue, works on the branches of our willows, which they often entirely cover, and thus greatly damage another tree valuable for both honey and pollen. Were it not that they seldom are so numerous two 43 years in succession, they would certainly banish from among us one of our most ornamental and valuable honey-producing trees. These are fairly thronged in September and October, and not unfrequently in spring and summer if the lice are abundant, by bees, wasps, ants, and various two-winged flies, all eager to lap up the oozing sweets. This louse is the Lach- nus dentatus, of Le Baron, and the Aphis salicti of Harris. Sycamore Louse. : 251 _ The past summer I have received from apiarists of Indiana and Ohio, a very large, dark gray, plant louse which worked on the sycamore, and is reported from both states as keeping the bees actively employed for some weeks. This louse is one- fourth of an inch long. The winged lice measure three- eights of an inch to the tips of their wings. : The veins of the wings, as also the short nectaries—the tubes at the posterior part of the abdomen—show that this louse (Fig. 122) belongs to the Genus Lachnus. The lice of the Genus Aphis—of which there are innumerable species—have Fig. 122. Female. Male. Female. . Male. longer nectaries (Fig. 123), from which ooze large drops of nectar. This is much relished by the ants, which often care for these lice as tenderly as for their own young. 252 Honey Dew. A. _ Doubtless many have supposed that the bees were gathering a real honey dew, when closer inspection would have shown that some species of plant lice was wholly responsible. I think that very often this nectar from plantlice isentirely wholesome and unobjectionable. REAL HONEY DEW. Bees also get, in some regions, a sort of honey-dew, which enables them to add to their stores with surprising rapidity. Fig., 124. & Cow Pea. a, a—Glands. b—F lower. c—Pods. I remember one morning while riding on horseback along the Sacramento river, in California, I broke off a willow twig Bees and Grapes. 253 | beside the road when, to my surprise, | found it was fairly decked with drops of honey. Upon further examination I found the willow foliage was abundantly sprinkled by these delicious drops. These shrubs were undisturbed by insects, nor were they under trees. Here then wasa real case of honey- dew, which must have been distilled through the night by the leaves. I never saw any such phenomenon in Michigan, yet others have. Dr. A. H. Atkins, an accurate and conscientious observer, has noted this honey-dew more than once here in Central Michigan. Many bee-keepers have noticed the same thing. Mine plants, like the Cotton and Cow Pea (Fig. 124) of the South, have extra floral glands which secrete nectar. In case of the Cow Pea these glands are on the peduncles or flow- er stems, just at the base of the flowers (Fig. 124, a, a). Prof. Trelese thinks that this nectar serves the plant by at- tracting bees, wasps, etc., which keep injurious insects from attacking it. SWEET SAP AND JUICES. Bees often gather much nectar from the stubble of wheat that is cut early, while the straw is yet green. The sap from the maple and other trees and plants also furnishes them sweets. They gather juices of questionable repute from about cider mills, some from grapes and other fruit which have been crushed, or eaten and torn by wasps and other insects. That bees ever tear the grapes is a question of which I have failed to receive any personal proof, though for years I have been ~ carefully seeking it. I have lived among the vineyards of California, and have often watched bees about vines in Mich- igan, but never saw bees tear open the grapes. I have laid crushed grapes in the apiary, when the bees were not gather- ing, and were ravenous for stores, which, when covered with sipping bees, were replaced with sound grape-clusters, which in no instance were mutilated. I have even shut bees in emp- ty hives on warm days and closed the entrance with grape clusters, which even then were not cut. I have thus been led _ to doubt if bees ever attack sound grapes, though quick to improve the opportunities which the oriole’s beak and the stronger jaws of wasps offer them. My friend Prof. Prentiss suggests that when the weather is very warm and damp, and 254 Valuable Honey Plants. the grapes very ripe, the juice may ooze through small open- ings of the grapes and so attract the bees. It is at just such times that attacks are observed. Still, Dr. C. V. Riley feels sure that bees are sometimes thus guilty, and Mr. Bidwell tells me he has seen bees rend sound grapes, which they did with their feet. Yet, if this is the case, it is certainly of rare occur- rence, and is more than compensated by the great aid which the bees afford the fruit-grower in the great work of cross-fer- tilization, which is imperatively necessary to his success, as has been so well shown by Dr. Asa Gray and Mr. ‘Chas. Dar- win. It is true that cross-fertilization of the flowers, which can only be accomplished by insects, and early in the season by the honey-bee, is often, if not always, necessary to a full yield of fruit and vegetables. In diecious plants, like the willows and most nut bearing trees, the stamens that bear the pollen or male element, are on one plant, and the pistils that grow the ovules—the female element—on another. Here then insects must act as ‘ marriage priests” that fructification may be accomplished at all. In other plants where the organs are all in the same flower, fertilization is wholly dependent on insects. In cases like the red clover where fertilization is possible without aid, my colleague, Prof. Beal, has shown that unless insects are present, the yield of seed is meager in- deed. The seeds in the uncovered blossoms were to those in the covered as 236:5. There is then entire reciprocity between the bees and flowers. The bees are as necessary to the plants as are the plants to the bees. I am informed by Prof. W. W. Tracy, that the gardeners in the vicinity of Boston keep bees that. they may perform this duty. Even then, if Mr. Bidwell and Prof. Riley are right, and the bee does, yarely— for surely this is very rare, if eyer—destroy grapes, still they are, beyond any possible question, invaluable aids to the pomol- ogist. That bees ever injure blossoms and thus effect.damage to the fruitage of such plants as buckwheat—or to any plants —as is sometimes claimed, is utterly absurd and without foun- dation. But the principal source of honey is still from the flowers. WHAT ARE THE VALUABLE HONEY PLANTS? In the northeastern part of ourcountry the chief reliance, for May, is the fruit-blossoms, willows, and sugar maples. In be" res fhe maint: ae oak Pon sk. ind» i@) Valuable Honey Plants. 255 June, white clover, Alsike clover, and raspberries yield large- lv of the most attractive honey, both as to appearance and flavor. In July, the incomparable basswood makes both bees and apiarist jubilant. In August, buckwheat offers a tribute, . which we welcome, though it be dark and pungent in flavor, while with us in Michigan, August and September give us a profusion of bloom which yields to no other in the richness of its capacity to secrete honey, and is not cut off till the autumn frosts—usually about September 15. Thousands of aeres of golden rod, boneset, asters, -and other autumn flowers of our new northern counties, as yet have blushed unseen, with fragrance wasted. This unoccu- pied territory, unsurpassed in its capability for fruit produc- tion, covered with grand forests of maple and basswood, and spread with the richest of autumn bloom, offers opportunities to the practical apiarist rarely equaled except in Texas and the Pacific States. In these localities one or two hundred pounds a season to the colony and its increase, is no surprise to the apiarist, while even four or five hundred are not isolated cases. In the following table will be found a list of valuable honey plants: Those in the first column are annual, biennial, or perennial; the annual being enclosed in a parenthesis thus: (_); the biennial enclosed in brackets thus: [ ]; while those in the second column are shrubs or trees; the names of shrubs being enclosed in a parenthesis. The date of the commencement of bloom is, of course, not invariable. The one appended, in — ease of plants which grow in our State, is about average for Central Michigan. Those plants whose names appear in small capitals yield very superior honey. Those with (a) are use- ful for other purposes than honey secretion. All but those with a * are native or very commonin Michigan. Those writ- ten in the plural refer to more than one species. Those fol- lowed by a 7 are very numerous in species. Of course I have not named all, as that would include some hundreds which have been observed at the college, taking nearly all of the two great orders, Composite and Rosacee. I have only aimed to give the most important, omitting many foreign plants of no- toriety, as I have had no personal knowledge of them. : x . ; ‘ * Py . ’ > bse Mata ¢ eo. » As 7 om 256 Honey Plants. et ae Date. Annuals or Perennials. = = . Ni 0) Gi SER Se ree ee Skunk Cabbage. 2 - Apriland May............. Dandelion. a Apriland May..... ..| Strawberry. (a) April and May... “BALL, BLACK OR BLUE SAGE—California. WHITE SAGE—California. ..|(Seven-Top Turnip). *Horehound—California. “Sumac—California. “Coffee Berry—California. .*HORSE M1intT—South. .| False Indigo. May and June te May and June... May and June...... May to August......... Ground Ivy or Sill. May to Fall............... Cow Pea.) (a)—South. DRIVE Jo 5s o-Ps ssssceeusssen tenes Stone Crop, South. June Mammoth Red Clover. (qa) June.. *California Figwort—California. June (Hemp). (a). : pune tO July sok WHIfE CLOVER. (a) PUNE OU yre Hee ce ce ALSIKE CLOVER. (q@) June to July *[SWEET CLOVER. |] June to July orehound. MITE DO LY, aceon encevees "Oeyed Daisy—Bad Weed. TLS” DOs I RU oh delsscusgsts Bush Honeysuckle. ume ang DP wlys. cies ees «(Partridge Pea). June to August............ Matrimony Vine. June to August.. .... "Sage. June to August.. Mother- on, ' June to frost.. orage). June to frost. ....|"(Cotton). (a). JMMetOLrOSte ei cc.ses Silk or Milk Weeds. JtIME LO PLOSE ascii ses (Mustard)+ IME UOMMLOstia.s-.5lecsccete *(Rape). (a). TINGS TOVEPOSH:..:..c.fetscenss St. John’s Wort. PUNE FO LVOSt es. cece ccs cve (MIGNONETTE). (a) DHMU ae teccceasesonts dats ces snue “eee (a) Pi aaa ek .*(Teasel). (a) July to August. eievteg shia Basils or ‘Mt. Mint. July to August pee Catnip. (q@) July to August............ Asparagras. (a) July to August........ *(Rocky Mountain Bee Plant). July to August ........ .*Viper’s Rugloss (Blue Thistle). July to August, ..:...:...2: Blue Vervain or Verbena. July to AUeust, .......0. White Vervain or Verbena. July to August Pe roan: Marsh Milk-Weed. SEE Y? DO MLOSTics< aos s0shnsze- Boneset. LY DO EROS ti nis- tasers cece Bergamot. Oiley= TOMrost.n fs snk. Figwort. NM EO TVOSE..-2202. 18). tes. Giant Hyssop. July to frost.......... Malva. | Iron Weed. .| Culver’s Root. Indian Plantains. July to frost. July to frost. July to frost PAIRS Tole e sts cceienencs ete "(Buck wheat). (a) ; ; August... Rice gas eaceepere ste cence (Snap-dragon). 7 AMO UISE 3c .sckecnten teed ses Touch Me Not or Swamp Balsam). PAIS UIB Te eos cae uae Great Willow Herb Fire Weed.) August to September.) Golden Honey Plant. p August to September ..| Large Smart Weed. August-to frost ........... “(SPIDER FLOWER). -August to frost ............ (GOLDEN ROpD). ¢ August to frost ............ ASTERS. August to frost ............ Marsh Sunflower. + ; MUCISE LO CTOSticcc cst sees Tick-Seed. + Neti August to frost. ............ Beggar-Ticks. + ae August to frost ............ Spanish Needles. + ° > August to frost ....0....... Rattlesnake Root or Tall White Lettuce. _ e 2 BL i ¥ > r) - » A iff / Bee Shrubs and Trees. 257 Date. January to May January to May ....... February to June..... March April and May... ee and May May and June May and June.. May and June May and June May Ciiay3 Be SF a epee eee May and June June “TSOTSI eee AQUI 10) dT eee ee neee ay July to August July to September. August August to September .. August to frost ........0... August to December ... August to January.... = i Shrubs oy Trees. *Manzanita—California. “(Willow) +—California. - (Gall Been mule .“Orange, South Box Elder or Ash-Leaf Maple. Red or Soft Maple. (a) Poplar or Aspen. Silver Maple. Judas Tree—South. Willows) j also Trees. ‘Judas Tree—South. .(Shad-Bush). .|( Alder). | Maples-Sugar Maple. () | Crab Apple. (Hawthorns). Fruit Trees—Apple, Plum, Cherry, Pear, ete. (@) Currant and Gooseberry). (a) f*(Wistaria Vine—South). ‘\(Chinese Wistaria (RES Sta (Japan Privet)—South. | Varnish Tree—South. .. Acacia—South. .| Black Gum—South. (Bladder Nut). Persimmon (@)—South. SAw PALMETTO—South. Buckeye. (Barberry). ..|(Grape- Vine). (a). Tulip-tree. (Sumac). Buch Thorn—South. BLACK MANGROVE—Florida. | Magnolias—South. Honey Locust. .| Wild-Plum. .(Black Raspberry). (a) .| Locusts. .(RED RASPBERRY). (a) (Blackberry). *Sourwood—South. (Button Bush). BASSWOOD. (a) (Virginia Creeper). (a) ‘CABBAGE PALMETTO—South. “Blue Gum—California. Catalpa. (a) *Pepper-tree—California. “(St. John’s Worts). (Late Sumac). Indian Currant or Coral Berry. Red Gum—California. Japan Plum—South. ..|(Germander or Wood Sage). 258 Bee Pasturage. DESCRIPTION, WITH PRACTICAL REMARKS. As this subject of bee pasturage is of such prime import- ance, and as the interest in the subject is so great and wide- spread, I feel that details with illustrations will be more than warranted. We have abundant experience to show that forty or fifty Geel Zoe His é Sugar Maple. colonies of bees, take the seasons as they average, are all that a single place will sustain to the greatest advantage. Then howsignificant the fact, that when the season is the best, full three March and April Plants. 259 times that number of colonies will find ample resources to keep all employed. So this subject of artificial pasturage be- comes one well worthy close study and observation. The subject, too, is a very important one in reference to the loca- tion of the apiary. It is well to remember in this connection, that while bees do sometimes go from five to seven miles for nectar, two or three miles should be regarded as the limit of profitable gathering. That is, apiaries of from fifty to one hundred or more colonies, should not be nearer than four or five miles of each other. MARCH PLANTS. In Florida the orange gives early bloom, and the thousands of trees in that land, not only of flowers but of honey, will have no small influence in building up the colonies for the grand harvest of mangrove and palmetto soon to follow. The gall-berry of the south commences to bloom even in February, and yields abundant nectar. In Florida thisshrub gives the main supply of honey during the swarming season. APRIL PLANTS. As we have already seen, the apiarist does not secure the best results, even in the early spring, unless the bees are en- couraged by the increase of their stores of pollen and honey; hence, in case we do not practice stimulative feeding—and many will not—it becomes very desirable to have some early bloom. Happily, in all sections of the United States our de- sires are not in vain. Early in spring there are many scattering wild flowers, as skunk cabbage, Symplocarpus fotidus, which supplies abund- ant pollen and some honey; the blood-root, Sanguinaria Can- adensis, liver-leaf, Hepatica acutiloba, and various others of the crow-foot family, as also many species of cress, which be- long to the mustard family, and the gay dandelion, Tarazxa- cum dens-leonis, which keeps on blooming for weeks, ete., all of which are valuable and important. The maples (Fig. 125), which areall valuable honey plants, also contribute to the early stores. Especially valuable are the silver maples, Acer dasyearpum, the red or soft maples, Acer rubrum, and the box elder or ash-leaf maple, Negundo aceroules, as they bloom so very early, long before the leaves 7 = 260 April Plants. appear. The bees work on these, here in Michigan, the first week of April, and often in March. They are also magnifi- cent shade trees, especially those that have the weeping habit, Their early bloom is very pleasing, their summer form and fo- Fie. 126. Judas Tree. Willow. liage beautiful, while their flaming tints in autumn are inde- scribable. The foreign maples, sycamore, Acer pseudo-plata- nus, and Norway, Acer platanoides, are also very beautiful. Whether superior to ours as honey plants, I am unable to say. The willows, too, (Fig. 126) rival the maples in the early period of bloom. Some are very early, blossoming in March, while others, like the white willow, Salix alba (Fig. 126), bloom in May. The flowers on one tree or bush of the willow are all pistillate, that is, have pistils but no stamens, while on others they are all staminate, having no pistils, On the former, bees can gather only honey, on the latter only pollen. ~ That the willow furnishes both honey and pollen is attested by the fact that I saw both kinds of trees, the pistillate and the staminate, thronged with bees the past season. The wil- low, too, from its elegant form and silvery foliage, is one of our finest shade trees. It grows everywhere in the United States. May Plants, 261 In the south of Michigan, and thence southward to Ken- tucky, and even beyond, the Judas tree, or red-bud, Cercis Canadensis (Fig. 127), is not only worthy of cultivation as a honey plant, but is also very attractive, and well deserving of attention for its ornamental qualities alone. This blooms from March to May, according to the latitude. The poplars—not the tulip—also bloom in April, and are freely visited by the bees. The wood is immaculate, andfis used for toothpicks. Why not use it for sections? In California, the unique and exquisite Manzanitas (species of Arctostaphylos) together with the willows and many other flowering plants keep the bees busy from January till May. MAY PLANTS. In May we have the grand sugar maple, Acer saccharinum (Fig. 125), incomparable for beauty, also all our various fruit trees, peach, cherry, plum, apple, etc.; in fact all the Rosaceze Fie. 128. @ Se SSBF /) cnx oe American Wistaria. family. Our beautiful American Wistaria, Wistaria frutes- . cens (Fig. 128), the very ornamental climber, or the still more lovely Chinese Wistaria, Wistaria sinensis (Fig. 129), which has longer racemes than the native, and often blossoms twice in the season. These are the woody twiners for the apiarist. 262 May Plants. The barberry, too, Berberis vulgaris (Fig. 180), comes after fruit blossoms, and is thronged with bees in search of nectar Fig. 130. Barberry. Chinese Wistaria. in spring, as with children in winter, in quest of the beautiful scarlet berries, so pleasingly tart. In California, the sumac, the horehound, the famous black _sage (Fig. 131), Audibertia Palmeri, or more correctly Trechostema lanatum, (there are two other species less common, ) with its most beautiful and delicious honey, and the more common, and hardly less excellent white sage,