f'^M ^p Iflr. -^SoIIcfi. LAND OF THE LINGERING SNOW. Chron- icles of a Stroller in New England from Jan- uary to June. i6mo, J1.25. AT THE NORTH OF BEARCAMP WATER. Chronicles of a Stroller in New England from July to December. i6mo, ^1.25. FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY, AND OTHER PAPERS. i6mo, jSi.25. HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO. Boston and New York. [FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY AND OTHER PAPERS BY FRANK BOLLES SbfUiD^ifirj|3wg BOSTON AND NEW YORK HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY 1894 Copyright, 1894, By ELIZABETH QUINCY BOLLES. All rights reserved. The Riverside Press, Cambridge, Mass., U. S. A. Electrotyped and Printed by H. O. Houghton & Co. NOTE. The following papers, with the exception of the first four, which are Mr. Bolles's latest work, are arranged in the order in which they were written and first published in different periodi- cals between the years 1890 and 1894. They are now reprinted in their original form, although this involves a certain amount of repe- tition which would doubtless have been avoided had Mr. Bolles himself revised them. Barred Owls in Captivity and the two papers that follow appeared originally in " The Auk," Bird Traits in " The New England Magazine," the next two as well as the first four in " The Atlantic Monthly," Ways of the Owl and the two closing papers in "The Popular Science Monthly." E. Q. B. CONTENTS. From Blomtdon to Smoky 1 Ingonish, by Land and Sea 38 The Home of Glooscap 56 August Birds in Cape Breton .... 82 Barred Owls in Captivity 106 Sapsuckers and their Guests .... 131 Young Sapsuckers in Captivity .... 156 Ways of the Owl 176 Bird Traits 206 Individuality in Birds 219 Birds at Yule-Tide 237 Up the Chimney 247 The Humming-Birds of Chocorua .... 260 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. Against the Bay of Fundy, with its fogs and turbident waters, Nova Scotia presents a bokl front of bastion and moat combined. The bas- tion is called North Moimtain, and is a well- wooded ridge rimning parallel to the southeast shore of the Bay of Fundy for nearly its entire length. The moat consists of St. Mary's Bay, the Annapolis Basin, and the Basin of Minas, and their tributary rivers, all lying within the line of North Mountain. Parallel with both bastion and moat, and presiding over the well- tilled fields which border the several basins, is South Mountain, from whose height can be ob- tained the finest views of the land of Evan- geline, and its impressive central figure, the spruce-covered, storm-haunted Blomidon. When we landed at Yarmouth, far down near the southern tip of Nova Scotia, and saw the monotonous coimtry which is characteristic of that part of the province, something very much like gloom settled upon our spirits. We took an early morning train, and started eastward and northward towards Blomidon. Rain, miles 2 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. of larch and spruce swamp, burned woodland given up to tangles of fireweed and briers, and cheerless, rock - rimmed ponds in low woods haunted us until we reached Digby. True, our escape from the railway at Meteghan station, and our five hours with Mr. Sheehan, the royal mail carrier and hospitable hotel keeper, bright- ened us somewhat ; but there was nothing at the railway to tell us of the quaint French set- tlement of Meteghan which lay concealed, be- yond ridge and woods, on the pleasant shores of St. Mary's Bay. As we left Digby, late in the afternoon of this first long day in Nova Scotia, the clouds broke, the setting sun struggled for the mastery of the sky, and all the heavens were filled with shifting masses of storm and charging columns of golden light. The bank of vapor which had rested upon the Annapolis Basin at North Mountain — vapor brewed, no doubt, in the Bay of Fundy — suddenly lifted, and we saw under it not only the vivid greens of forest and field on the mountain, but Digby Gut, a narrow, steep-walled cleft in the mountain lead- ing straight out to the golden glory of the bay of storms. Through that rift in the hill ro- mance and the French had sailed in as long ago as the first years of the seventeenth century ; and though the French sailed out again, romance re- mained behind to dwell forever in Port Royal's placid basin. FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 3 As our train nearecl Port Royal, long ago called Annapolis, and rolled along the southern shore of the basin, the beauty of the scene in- creased, thanks largely to the brilliant effects of cloud-masses and an ardent setting sun. The mountain seemed high, its top not being clearly defined, and the wild scenery near Bear River, where the train passes over a high curved trestle, became doubly striking in the sunset lights. Every few rods a blue heron flew from the sands and flapped away from the train. Marvelous flocks of peep rose, careened, flashing like silver, wheeled, and alighted once more on good feeding-ground. Shadows nestled amongst the weirs running out at short intervals from the shore ; darkness began to gather in the valleys and the woods, and soon we reached Annapolis with its ancient earthworks, and found something akin to comfort in its best but unpretentious inn. It was on the afternoon of the next day, our second on the peninsula, that I saw Blomidon, — saw it first from the Kentville slopes, and again, after we had followed down the dashing, dancing Gaspereaux for several miles, from the heights above Wolfville. The Gaspereaux Val- ley had been charming by reason of its wooded hillsides, in parts holding the river closely be- tween dark banks of spruce and fir, but later 4 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. giving it freer range througli well-tilled mead- ows and undulating fields. Evening, heralded by rolling masses of dark clouds, seemed to be upon us, as our horses slowly climbed the steep slope of the Gaspereaux back of Wolfville. The air grew cold, and when we reached the crest of the ridge a strong wind wrestled with us, and carried a chill from Fundy to the very marrow of our bones. Then it was that, gaining the edge of the northern slope, we suddenly saw the marvelous panorama of the Cornwallis Val- ley, North Mountain, Blomidon, the Basin of Minas, the Acadian dike lands including Grand Pre, and the mouth of the Gaspereaux, spread before us under the sunset lights and the em- phatic contrasts of speeding wind clouds. The tide was out, and miles of basin bottom lay red and shining in the sunlight. The dike lands were intensely green, the sands, or mud, all shades of terra cotta, the shallows strange tones of purple, and the deeper waters varying shades of blue. Color ran riot in meadow, mud, and bay. Above and beyond all, directly in front of us, miles away, at the extremity of a grand sweep of shore which curved towards it from our left, was a dark red bluff crowned with evergreens. Its profile was commanding. From the edge of its forest it fell one quarter of the way to the sea in a line perfectly perpen- FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 5 clicular. Then, relenting a little, the line sloped to the waves at a gentler angle, but one still too steep for human foot to ascend. This was Blomidon, simple, majestic, inspiring. The distant northern shore of the basin was plainly indicated by a line of blue moimtains, the Cobequid range, and we knew that between us and its rugged coast-line the mighty, pent-up tides of Fundy raced each day and night into the comparative calm of Minas, and spread themselves there over the red sands and up to the dikes which the Acadian peasants had built round about Grand Pre. After receiving the image of Blomidon into the deepest corners of our memories, we looked next at Grand Pre, and, looking, gave up all previous impressions of it gained from Longfellow's poem. The Grand Pre which he imagined and painted without ever visiting the Gaspereaux coimtry is not the dike land of reality. Both are charm- ing, but around the vast level of green grass which lay below us there were no whispering pines or hemlocks, no suggestion of the primeval forest. To the low undulating or level fields which bordered the Gaspereaux, the Pereaux, the Grand Habitant, and other rivers of this region, the Acadian farmers added by degrees marsh lands naturally swept by the tides, but from which they carefully and permanently ex- 6 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. eluded all salt water. Longfellow's picture is o£ salt meadows flooded annually by the sea, and surrounded by a forest country, romantic in character. We saw forests far away on Blomidon, and back of us in the upper reaches of the Gaspereaux ; but near the Basin of Minas and the dike country of Grand Pre the apple-tree and the willow are, in this generation at least, kings among trees. To flood Grand Pre with salt water would be to carry ruin and desolation to its fertile acres, and sorrow to the hearts of its thrifty owners. Its best lands are worth four hundred dollars an acre, and require no enrichment. When the sea floods them, as it occasionally does, owing to the breaking of a dike, three years are required to bring the land back to even fair condition. The next afternoon a pair of Kentville horses carried us speedily towards Blomidon. We crossed the Grand Habitant or Cornwallis River at Kentville, and then followed the general direction of the shore of the basin until we had crossed in order the Canard, Habitant, and Pereaux rivers, and gained the North Mountain. Striking a ravine in its side, we ascended a well- made road to the summit at a point called " the Look-off." I know of no other hill or mountain which gives the reward that this one does in proportion to the effort required to climb it. FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 7 Many a rough White Mountain scramble up three thousand feet yiekls nothing like the view which this hill affords. The Nova Scotian fflories in the fact that from it he can see into seven counties, and count prosperous farms by the score and apple-trees by the hundred thou- sand. From the shores of the basin westward through the valley between the North and South Moun- tain well-tilled farm lands reach towards An- napolis as far as the eye can see. It is a patch- work of which the provinces are and may well be proud ; that quilted landscape, with grain and potatoes, orchard and hayfield, feather-stitched in squares by zigzag pole fences. Were this the whole or the essence of the view from the Look-off, it would not be worth writing about, for farm lands by themselves, or with a frame of rounded hills, are neither novel nor inspiring. That which stirs, in this view, is the mingling of Minas Basin, its blue water and dim farther shores, with Grand Pre and the other dike lands and with the red bluffs of Pereaux. The patch- work and hills serve only as contrast, back- ground, filling, to the pronounced features of sparkling sea, bright green meadows cleft from the sea by dikes, terra-cotta sands and bluffs, and the forest-covered ridge leading towards half- concealed Blomidon, the monarch of this gay 8 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. and sunlit realm. It was dreamlike to see the tide creeping in over the shining red sand and ooze, and changing their vivid tints by blending with them its own colors to make tones strange both to sea and sand. The wide expanses of mud left bare by the tide told in their own way the story of the Acadian dike builder. No man of the soil could see the riches exposed daily to view without wishing to keep them for his own tillage. Even the man of to-day, who lay be- side me on the turf of the Look-off, told of his visions of a new dike many times greater than any that the simple Acadian farmer had built, and which is some day to snatch a million dollars' worth of land from Minas Basin, and make it into a part of the prosperous Nova Scotia of the future. Listening to the dike builder, and wondering at the absence in this exquisite place of the hotels, pushing railways, dainty steamers, and other machinery which at home would long ago have been applied to give this spot to the madding crowd, it suddenly came over me that this was not a part of the United States, but a sleepy corner of Greater Britain. Even the great dike must be built on paper in London before it intrudes on Minas Basin. The next time that I fully realized Nova Scotia's bondage was two days later, in Halifax FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 9 on Sunday morning. It was a warm day at best, but when we had fairly pelted up a narrow street set on the earth at an angle best adapted to tobogganing, and gained the gateway of a chapel yard, all nature seemed melting. The hot air was moved, not by a vulgar breeze, but by the tramp of military men, and by the scampering of women and children who gazed upon the military men, and grew redder in the light reflected from their uniforms. There was morning service in the garrison chapel, and the redcoats were out in force to attend it. They marched lightly, quickly, and with an elastic step pleasant to see. They were good-looking boys, as a rule, and when seated, hundreds strong, in the wooden pews of the chapel, they looked tidy and good enough to be mothers' own boys safe at home in the wayside chapels of the old country. Above them, in the walls, were set a score of marble tablets commemorative of British officers who had died in or near Halifax. The ages of these fallen heroes seemed to range from seventeen to about twenty-four. No won- der England is a power on the earth, when her fighters begin life in childhood, and her states- men keep on ruling until near fourscore and ten. The red-coated youths joined heartily in the Church service, singing, responding, and listen- 10 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. ing attentively to the sermon, which was manly and direct. A young officer read the lessons, and when a cornet added its ringing tones to the choir the Church miHtant seemed complete in its equipment. It was when the prayer for the Queen and the Prince of Wales was reached that I suddenly realized the full meaning of the scene which surrounded me. This was a garrison church, owned by a foreign power and occupied by foreign soldiers. These soldiers were not Nova Scotians, but Englishmen, planted here as much to watch the Nova Scotians as to serve any other purpose. I could not help remember- ing the time, long ago, when Massachusetts dis- pensed with redcoats, and in the very act of driv- ing them away from her coast gained new life which has animated her to this day. Nova Scotia men are good enough and true enough to defend Nova Scotia soil. When the redcoats sang " God save the Queen," at the close of their service, I joined with them ; but the words I knew, and which I sang as vigorously as jDrudence and courtesy per- mitted, made no reference to their distant sover- eign. Still, the tune was the same, we were brothers in music, and there was no shadow of unkindness in my feeling towards the manly sol- diers as we trooped out of chapel together. While they formed in ranks on the green, I met FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. Jl and chatted with their commanding officer. Sud- denly the twelve o'clock gun was fired from the citadel above us. The general started visibly, but almost at the same moment his betrayal of nervousness was covered by the band, which struck up " Ta-ra-ra, boom de ay," putting spring into the soldiers' heels, and broad grins upon the spectators' faces. The next day, after a little patient pulling of red ta^je, I gained admission to the great citadel of Halifax, popularly supposed to be the key to its defenses. The works were in poor repair ; the guns in sight wei-e old in style, and not of a calibre to alarm an enemy's shijis in the outer harbor ; but the equipment was amjjly sufficient to keep Halifax itself in order, or to deal effect- ively with an insurgent army attempting to ap- proach the city. Against the attack of a strong foreign enemy the citadel would be of use mainly as a refuge for the women and children of Hali- fax. The real defenses of the city are earth- works in or near the harbor, and an elaborate system of mines and torpedoes underlying the channel. The citadel has one unquestioned merit which all the world, red or blue, can enjoy : it gives from its ramparts, or from the open grassy slopes just outside the bastions, an excellent view of Halifax and all its picturesque surroundings. 12 FEO^f BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. This view and the winning hospitality of the Halifax people were fresh and bright in our memories as we took the Intercolonial train northward on Tuesday morning. Outside the train, scanty forests, growing over a country which appeared to have been bombarded with rocks, offered no encouragement to an inquisitive gaze. Inside, motley humanity invented many ways of distracting us in more senses than one. Salvationists sat three in a seat and played con- certinas ; a company of maroons, the big negroes of the country, disported in their best clothes ; dozens of young Christian Endeavor delegates hobnobbed together ; while some Nova Scotia militia-men, by their calf-like antics, made us think more kindly of the British garrison left behind. If the scenery failed to charm, the names of places did not fail to astonish us. Acadie, Tracadie, Shubenacadie, rang in my ears for days, and so did the less harmonious refrain of Tignish, Antigonish and Merigomish. When I heard of Pugwash the climax seemed attained. It did not seem possible that any swain could go a-courting a girl from Pugwash. The day wore on. Names became places and faded back to names again, and then ft began to rain. It was in the rain that we first saw the hills of Cape Breton looming up on the further side of the Gut of Canso. We had expected to FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 13 be impressed by this strait and its bold shores, but its proportions as seen through slowly falling mist were disappointing. Had we not known what it was, it woidd have seemed undeniably commonplace. It was about three o'clock on the afternoon of August 1 that we crossed the Strait of Canso and first touched Cape Breton soil. A boy with baskets of freshly picked cultivated strawberries welcomed us to the island. Our mental calendar rolled back from August to June, and we enjoyed those berries as though they were the first of the season. Each berry marked a mile of wet forest scenery, and by the time they were gone we were well on our way to the Bras d'Or lakes. From 6.45 A. M. to 5.15 P. M. is a long day's ride in a Nova Scotia car, and we sighed with relief when the train rolled slowly over the seven-span iron bridge at Grand Narrows, and then slid away up the shore of the Bras d'Or towards Sydney, leaving us to take a funny little steamer for Baddeck. Cape Breton is shaped a good deal like a lob- ster's claw open towards the north, and this claw holds in its grasp the grotesquely iri-egular arm of the sea known as the Bras d'Or lakes. Com- ing by rail from the Strait of Canso to Grand Narrows, we had given up, or rather avoided, a trip by steamer up the whole length of the Big 14 FROM JiLOMIDON TO SMOKY. Bras cVOr. Had the afternoon been pleasant the voyage would have been charming, for the placid inland sea, with its picturesque shores now close in view, and again below the horizon, is one of the chief beauties of Cape Breton. As the afternoon was shrouded in fine rain, the Big Bras d'Or would have been no more attractive than any other chilly fog-bank, and the voyage through it would have consumed all the remain- ing hours of the day. As matters stood, we had two hours of daylight before us ; the rain had al- most ceased ; an occasional gleam of golden light wandered over the shores of the Little Bras d'Or ; and we were about to embark on a steamer which would take us through a portion of the lakes where both of the hilly and picturesque shores would be uninterruptedly in sight. Had we seen this charming landscape immedi- ately after bidding farewell to Chocorua, it would have failed to make the strong impression upon us which as a matter of fact it did produce. So much of Nova Scotia between Yarmouth and Halifax, and so nearly the whole of the country between Halifax and Grand Narrows, had been of a kind which every one sleeps through or scowls at in the States 'that the Bras d'Or was a paradise in comparison : a lake, yet the sea with its restless jellyfish ; the sea, yet a land-locked basin sur- rounded by graceful hills, trim farm lands, and FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 15 dark foi'ests of spruce and balsam. Many of the hills, rising from the water with resolute lines, wore the dignity of mountains ; and so perfect were their proportions that bays only half a mile in length often seemed like far-reaching thorough- fares worthy of a voyager's exploration. Grad- ually the Grand Narrows bridge faded away, until it looked like a line of tatting work against the gray sky. Then the most distant hills north- ward rose into well-rounded summits, and at last two noble headlands invited us to turn westward between them, and to approach Baddeck, masked by an island, spruce-grown, heron-haunted, and capped by a tiny lighthouse whose gleaming eye now emphasized the gathering gloom. The traveler who expects anything picturesque in an American village, town, or city, whether it be seen from the sea, a lake, a plain, or a hilltop, will in nine cases out of ten be wholly disap- pointed. Box-shaped wooden warehouses, shops, dwellings, and churches, whether arranged in parallelograms or hurled together in true Marble- head fashion, whether painted white, pink, green, yellow, or red, or not painted at all, generally lack the power of pleasing the eye. They are cheap, comfortless in appearance, temporary in nature, and essentially vidgar in design. Bad- deck, as we anticipated, consisted of the usual conglomeration of wooden buildings, rickety 16 FRO^r BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. wharves, and country roads ; and when we crept round the island, and saw it hank and gawky be- fore us, we felt as though we had seen it many times before. It made for vis a good point of de- parture, and as such we used it, for a few walks into its thickets after birds and plants, and for long trips to the Margaree rivers, and northward to Cape Smoky. We took our first walk that evening, soon after landing and getting settled at the Dunlops'. During that walk we learned several distinguish- ing characteristics of Baddeck. In the first place, Baddeck's streets are not lighted. In the second place, what in the darkness appear to be sidewalks are only plank coverings above deep gutters or brook beds which border the way ; and as the continuity of this platform depends upon the personal whim of the abutter, it is not surprising that when Rory's sidewalk ceased we fell into Torquil's part of the ditch. The soil of Baddeck is so composed of clay and other sub- stances that rain either runs to the Bras d'Or, or stands till heaven takes pity on it and draws it skyward again. The third fact we learned that night was that cows in Baddeck all wear bells, sleep in the highways, and are never allowed in- side a fence. Whenever and wherever we turned, a sudden " tinkle-tankle " would show that we had nearly fallen over a prostrate cow : therefore, FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 17 after half an \\o\\v of darkness, ditches, and cows, we returned to the hotel and its comforts ; but all night long- the cowbells tinkled through our dreams. For the Margaree drive we took three days, starting from Baddeck early on Thursday, Au- gust 3, in a top buggy behind a six-year-old horse named Jim. The first day we drove twenty-six miles, the second twenty-two, and the third ten, fortunately catching a steamer at Whycocomagh, and so coming back to Baddeck alive, and with Jim still able to feel the whip. We had been told that the Margaree country was entrancing ; but when the trip was over we had reached the conclusion, af tei-ward confirmed by a Cape Breton veteran, that salmon had first drawn the husbands to the Margaree and made them enthusiastic about it, and that later, when the wives invaded the region, they had been taught to find consola- tion in the pretty scenery. In our three days' trip we found but two spots which in the White Mountains would be deemed worthy of special notice. One of these was Loch o' Law, and the other Loch Ainslie. We came to the former near the close of our first day's drive. Worn and weary with flogging Jim, and insisting twice each minute on his return to the middle of the deeply rutted and often dangerously washed road, I had lost all interest in everything save the dim 18 FROM HLOMIDON TU SMOKY. prospect of food and bed, when suddenly I saw the gleam of water directly before us, and the next moment we came out of the woods upon the shore of a long, narrow lake held close to the heart of lofty hills. Our road followed the western margin of the tarn, and the dark forest which overhung us made premature twilight for us to jog through. Beyond the lake, on its east- ern side, three impressive hills stood shoulder to shoulder, one of rock, one of turf, one of forest. They were so steep, it seemed as though only goats could find a foothold upon their flanks. Between the hill of rock and the hill of turf lay a great gorge, overhung by cliffs and full of shadows. The hills themselves were bathed in warm sunlight, and the water was partly in shadow and partly in light. A mother loon and her smart little chick were swimming down the lake, and seven or eight great blue kingfishers flew up and down its borders, sounding over and over again their watchman's rattles. This was Loch o' Law, a gem worthy of its rare setting and of its place near the heart of Cape Breton. From it the escaping waters rush downward to help form the Northeast Margaree River, and the road we were following led us down with the stream to the j)leasant intervale where geese wander in flocks up and down the roads, and salmon swim proudly in the bright waters of their favorite river. FR03f BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 19 From Northeast Marg-aree to Margaree Forks, and from the Forks up the Southwest Margaree to Loch Ainslie, the scenery was not equal to the task of dispossessing Jim of the foremost place in our minds. Jim shied, stumbled, sweated, until we thought disintegration was near at hand, and, worse than all, required unremitting guid- ance to keep him in the road. Had the natural, beauties of the country been as great as we ex- pected, I doubt not that Jim would have tipped us into the swift-flowing waters of the Southwest Maraaree lonjx before Loch Ainslie was reached. Had Jim been the horse he might have been, we should have enjoyed much more the pretty glimpses of moving water, the deep pools tempt- ing a passing cast, the meadows thick with spikes of splendid orchids, and the rounded hillsides thickly clad with woods. Loch Ainslie is a beautifid sheet of water, covering in all about twenty-five square miles, and surrounded by good farm land running back upon high hills. Highlanders settled the country, and their descendants, who still own the farms, are eager, like so many of our New England farmers, to sell their places, and try life under less picturesque but more profitable conditions. We were welcomed to a Highlander's home, and told where we could fish to advantage from three o'clock till dark. Lon"- before tea time we had 20 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. caught more trout than we could eat for supper and breakfast, and by nightfall Loch Ainslie had impressed itself upon us as the most beautiful part of the Margaree country. This it did mainly at sunset, when, from near a grove of lofty pines, we watched the most delicate tints come and go in the sky, on the distant western hills, and in the fair lake itself, with its miles of rippling water blushing and paling in sympathy with the heavens. While the sunset lasted we thought more of color than of form in our beautiful sur- roundings ; but after the passing away of orange, yellow, pale green, violet, and finally blue itself, we were soothed by the lovely contour of the beach, the silhouettes of the pines, the sweep of hill crest, the pallid lake, and the mystery of the unfathomable sky. Next day, August 5, we drove from Loch Ains- lie to Whycocomagh, called by the natives " Hogomah," and there, with a sigh of relief, put Jim, the buggy, and ourselves upon a steamer, and returned to Baddeck without further wea- riness of sj)irit. This part of the Bras d'Or is like the rest of the great labyrinth of inland sea, charming at every point. At times so narrow as to be more river than lake, it winds around high wooded hills, curves into countless bays, and then expands proudly to meet the Little Bras d'Or at Baddeck. FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 21 Early on the following Monday morning, having in the mean time eaten wild strawberries picked in the larch swamps and spruce thickets back of Baddeck, we set out for Cape Smoky. Theoretically we were going on foot, but it so chanced that the kindest and most entertain- ing of friends found it convenient to carry us eighteen miles northward to Englishtown, on St. Anne's Bay. Sullen clouds hung over Bras d'Or, as we drove for a mile or two along its shore before entering the woods and beginning the long and easy ascent to the watershed be- tween lake and bay. Gradually the sky as- sumed a more threatening aspect, and when at last the height of land was reached, and we saw before us St. Anne's Bay, narrow at first among the trees, and growing broad as it met the sea and f^ced boldly northward towards Newfound- land, huge black clouds rolled eastward, pouring cold rain upon movuitain, bay, and road. We drove faster as the tingling drops splashed upon us. Dashing through dark spruces, spin- ning down steep grades, round sudden curves, over frail bridges which spanned foaming brooks, and then out into the open, we found the bay on our left, and beyond it, showing dimly through the storm, a large mountain. It was Barasois (or Smith's) Mountain, and from its left North River emerged to empty into a broad 22 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. arm of the bay, while behind it, further north, the Barasois River, winding through primeval forests, flowed eastward to reach the sea ahead of lis outside of the mouth of St. Anne's Bay. Soon we saw Engiishtown a mile or two in fi-ont of us, on the eastern side of the bay, and then we noticed, apjiareutly running from shore to shore, a narrow white bar which separated bay from sea. Now the clouds began to break and roll away, and far, far beyond the bar we could see headlands of various degrees of dignity and grandeur looking seaward. The last of them, very distant, very high, cloud-capped, with a front like Blomidon's steepest face, filled us with a yearning to reach it and worship at its mighty shrine. It was Smoky, the monarch of the northern sea. Glorious yellow sunshine poured down upon Barasois Mountain and the heaving waters of St. Anne's Bay as we entered the little fishing village of Engiishtown. The worst of the storm was passing beyond us, and myriad perpendicu- lar lines of falling rain were ruled from sea to sky across the north. With latent impatience we rested, ate, and said good-by to our friends. Then our feet tramped the muddy road, our noses sniffed the atmosphere of drying cod on the flakes, our ears listened to the song of the juncos, and our eyes gazed forward, northward, FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 23 toward Smoky. The head of the great cape was cloud-capped, but this made it seem all the more heaven-reaching. Turning to the left from the road, we de- scended to the shore of the bay, and found our- selves just opposite the long white cobblestone bar which we had seen afar off. Between us and its tip lay a deep channel which connected St. Anne's Bay with the ocean. On the shore was a boat, and an impatient ferryman stood by it watching us descend. " Where are you go- ing?" he asked, his keen eyes searching us. " Northward," I answered. " Like the wild geese," he said, with a mocking laugh, and pushed off into the current. He was Torquil McLean, well known to all who travel on the North Shore, and holding in his face many a suggestion of the Highland stock from which he is descended, and the wild north country in which he lives, and its counterpart in which his race was moidded. His strong arms soon brought us to the bar, upon which two wagons, several people, and a sheep were awaiting his arrival. A road, scarcely perceptible at first glance, lay along the bar towards the beginning of the North Shore country into which we were ventur- ing. Between us and the north pole there was nothing legally definable as a hotel. This vague 24 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. track over the cobblestone beach led to the mainland, and then, past farm and fisherman's hut, thirty - four miles to Ingonish Bay, and thirty-six miles more to Cape North. Our lodg- ing-places must be the simple homes of Gaelic- speaking Presbyterians, in whose eyes we should be foreigners, not to say heathen. Letters from James Dunlop, of Baddeck, addressed to various members of Clan McDonald, were our principal hope of hospitality. The dimly marked road and the cobblestone reef, wheeling, shrieking terns, pounding waves from the northern ocean, and a sight of new and strange plants combined to thrill us with a sense of charming novelty and wildness. It was still early in the after- noon, and as we did not care how far we ad- vanced, having already been carried as far as we originally planned to walk that day, we strolled slowly along the bar, enjoying the mere fact of living. Among the plants growing upon the loosely packed, egg-shaped stones was one quite unfa- miliar and of most uncommon appearance. Its succulent and glaucous leaves were bluish-gray in color, and set thickly upon prostrate stems which radiated like devilfish tentacles from a common centre. The leaves diminished rapidly in size as they left the root, and at the extremity of each stem there were uncoiling: clusters of FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 25 exquisite flowers somewhat resembling those of the forget-me-not. Flowers fully developed were delicate blue, while buds and half-opened blossoms were pink. It seemed to me that I never saw a plant more perfectly in harmony with its surroundings. Lifting no surface for the storm winds to seize upon, it nevertheless covered much ground. Its delicate leaf tints sympathized with those of the polished stones and sea-bleached driftwood upon which it grew, yet its flowers drew from sky and sea a more pronounced beauty of color sufficient to allure the butterfly and attract the bee. The botanical name of this charming plant is Mcrtensia mari- tima., though why Gray's manual calls its flowers white is more than the Cape Breton plant can answer. As we neared the mainland, stunted spruces and firs grew more abundant and bolder, flowers more numerous, and the road plainer and less rocky. Birds other than the weird terns flew before us, or sang to us from their cover. When we reached the higher ground, the sense of novelty and isolation faded, and the world seemed more like its old southern self. The road ran along the shore as closely as it could without much winding, and as we progressed northward we left St. Anne's Bay behind us, and gained a view southeastward along the coast 26 FJiOM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. towards Sydney and the entrance to the Bras d'Or. Still the Leanty of St. Anne's followed ns, for the glimpses which we had now and then of its slowly diminishing shores were of sturdy momitains with forests reaching to the waves, valleys in which the shades of evening were gathering, and farm lands upon which the short thick grass lay like velvet in the slanting rays of the sun. The view eastward was more rugged. Strong faces of rock turned towards the sea and fought the waves which had crumbled them, and torn away all but the hardest cliffs and ledges. One long finger of rock reached into the ocean, and pointed to a group of islands which may once have been a j)art of it. They were not green isles with sandy margins, but huge angu- lar masses of rock with high cliffs, under which storms might rage for centuries without drag- ging down the grim ramparts. We passed a few farms, with houses and barns standing far back from the road, as is the fashion of these Highlanders, but most of our way lay between pastures, mowing-fields with short grass partly cropped by the scythes, and woodland where black and white spruces and balsam firs grew densely together. Upon a meadow bordering a salt creek a flock of yellow- legs were whistling noisily, and back and forth over them kingfishers were flying with their FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 27 usual cry. As the sun drew near the hills, we stopped at a house and blacksmith shop and presented the first of our letters. William McDonald lived here, and our request was that he should drive us on our way to Indian Brook, where, at Angus McDonald's, we hoped to spend the night. William had only a two- wheeled sulky, which could scarcely carry three ; so it was a relief to all of us when we saw, coming from the bar, a youth in a wagon, driv- ing a sprightly nag at a rattling pace. After a brief conversation in Gaelic, William announced that the youth would take us twelve or fourteen miles up the coast to French River, where we were sure of a good bed at Sandy McDonald's. A moment later we were packed in, three on a seat, and dashing northward as fast as the pony could tear. The youth would have done credit to a Spartan mother. I never met any one of his age and intelligence who knew so well how not to talk. He answered my questions with the fewest possible words, but asked nothing in return. He knew the names of capes, islands, birds, animals, trees, and many flowers, but it took a separate question to drag each item from him. Meanwhile he kept the horse spinning. We had no time to shiver over holes in bridges ; tlie horse knew his business, and jumped the holes, at least, if he could not jump the whole 28 FROM BLOMIDON TO RMOKY. bridge. Ruts ancl gullies were ignored, and we learned that, if taken quickly, two ruts and a gully are almost as good as a level. Twilight was growing upon the earth, and far away over the pale sea the light off Cape Dau- phin, on the Ciboux Islands, was flashing its mes- sage of mingled hope and warning, when suddenly we plunged into gloom, wheeled around a dizzy curve, and crossed a long iron bridge. Below us a river's dark waters reflected the waning glory of the sky. This was the Barasois, one of the salmon rivers of which we had heard fisherman's tales at Baddeck. Two miles more brought us to Indian Brook, and again a great curve and a dash through the woods prepared us for another angle and a sharp descent to a long bridge so full of holes that we felt as though only angels could have kept our pony's flying feet out of them. A vision of cliffs, deep black pools, and distant mountains with serrated spruce forests against the sunset sky made us determine that Indian Brook should not be passed on the gallop when we returned from Ingonish, if indeed that happy day ever came. Darkness having taken full possession of the earth, our charioteer urged his horse to even wilder efforts, and we shot through dim dangers with teeth set and eyes vainly scanning the gloom to see what next impended. It was in this fash- FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 29 ion that we tore across a field towards tlie cliffs, apisarently with certain death before us, whirled under a steep bank, and found ourselves on the ocean's edge, in front of a long, unpainted build- ing, before which, standing or sitting upon the loaded fish flakes, were a dozen or more men. Half an hour later, the telegraph operator at the goverment office, a mile up the road, ticked to Baddeck the following message given by our Jehu : " Them Yanks, the man and woman, are at Sandy McDonald's this night." " Them Yanks," stiff, stunned, sore, hungry, cold, and petrified with astonishment, stood on Sandy McDonald's doorstep and silently gazed up and down upon land and sea. Truly they had been cast upon as unique a shelter as this world had ever yet offered them. The long, low house clung upon the edge of the bluff, with only the width of the fish flakes between it and a sharp descent to the ocean. Behind it rolling- grass land cut off the west. Southward a line of bold rocky cliffs overhung a narrow beach, upon which the waves broke and cast foam from many fragments of ledge which dotted the shore. Through a similar line of bluffs on the north French River had cut its way, but instead of reaching the ocean directly it was turned aside by a huge cobblestone barrier raised by storms, and so was compelled to flow nearly parallel to 30 FROM RLOMIDON TO SMOKY. the shore for many rods, finally reaching the sea JTist at the foot of the fish flakes and in front of the house. Eastward and northward, as far as the eye could see, lay the open ocean. The only distance not sky or sea was the broken shore near Cape Dauphin and Point Aconi, which limited the view towards the southeast and south. Just below the fish flakes were several fisher- men's huts, crowded together upon uncertain foundations above high-tide mark. Boats, great tubs for oil, more flakes thickly strewn with split fish, masses of seaweed and fish heads, big frag- ments of rock worn round by the waves, oars, sails, ropes, nets, lobster pots, and nameless rel- ics of storm and shore lay in wild confusion at the foot of the bank. All the odors of Bil- lingsgate rose to salute our trembling nostrils, and stronger than all sights and smells came in ceaseless iteration the singing and sobbing of the great waves. Sandy McDonald gave us a hearty welcome, and ushered us into a cosy parlor, from which opened a tiny bedroom. Simple food, reading by McDonald from a Gaelic Bible, a long breath of ocean air, and the benediction of the stars fitted us for early and profound sleep. It was not until gray dawn that I awakened, and, throwing a blanket over my shoulders, stole to the door and looked out over the sea. The fishermen were FROM BLOMIDON TO 8M0KY. 31 already afloat ; several boats were a mile from shore, and others, with sails flapping- and oars thumping, were working their way towards the east. Across the far horizon lay a long, low bank of white fog. The sun came slowly from it and looked at the drowsy world with its one red eye. Its light touched each wave as it broke, and through the thin green-combing of the breaker the sun's glow was rose-colored and exquisitely beautiful. So, too, the rosy light lay in the thin water which ran back across the shin- ing sand, as each wave subsided after breaking on the beach. Cape Dauphin and its islands floated as rosy castles in a distant haze, and the bluffs close to me put on soft and alluring tints, soon to be lost, however, as the sun grew clear, and by whiter light robbed the scene of most of its peculiar charm. It was not until after another period of sweet sleep that we began our walk of fourteen miles from French River over Cape Smoky to Ingonish. The day was warm and clear. Smoky stood up boldly against the north, facing eastward towards the open sea with a front as steep as Blomidon's, and nearly three times as high. For about two hundred feet above the ocean the mountain's face was reddish rock ; thence for a thousand feet low trees clothed the rampart with soft green. The top, running inland a long distance, appeared 32 FJiO,]f BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. to be level, and either wooded or covered with bushes. Between us and Smoky two minor bluffs pointed into the sea ; but they were dwarfed by the loftier cape, and served only as milestones to cheer us on our way. After walking a mile or more we met two men, who addressed us pleasantly, and turned to walk with us on our way. The older of the two was over eighty, and told of his far-away birthplace in the Isle of Lewis. The younger, a man of sixty, was very tall, and saw this world through but one eye. We soon found that it was his son who had been our laconic charioteer the evening before, and as the talk progressed it became evident that Big Rory, as this canny man is called from Baddeck to Cape North, was not in favor of our walking over Smoky, when his horse and wagon could be earning more American dollars by carrying us. We withstood his arguments, however, and en- joyed his flow of genial and intelligent conver- sation. I felt sure that had Cape Breton been called upon to take an active or courageous part in this world's doings while Big Rory was young, he would have been a power in her life. True, he is that in a way now, politically ; but provincial politics are so lacking in all that is pure, patriotic, or intelligent that neither Big Rory nor any other strong man has much FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 33 chance to make head against the undertow of corruption and prejudice. By noon we had reached one of the last houses on the southern side of Smoky. Here we sought dinner, but found, alas, what too many of the North Shore people live upon, — sour bread, boiled tea, sour milk sweetened and watered, and berries. Our hosts could probably have added salt fish, eggs, and oatmeal porridge, had they felt like it. But we made the best meal we could off the food offered, and asked for no ad- ditions, feeling that what we ate might be seri- ously diminishing their own dinners. Upon rather insufficient rations, therefore, we advanced against Smoky, and began the ascent by following inland a noisy stream which flowed seaward alons; the mountain's southern border. After carrying us deep into the forest, which was by far the most lofty and vigorous growth of trees we had thus far seen on the island, the road crossed the torrent and turned seaward again, ascending by easy grades through a dense birch growth. On the whole, the road was well made, and showed skill on the part of those who planned it. When we reached its highest point, we found the top still unconquered ; so, strik- ing through bushes and over steep ledges, we clambered to the undisputed summit, and there paused to survey the panorama below us. 34 FROM liLOMIDON TO SMOKY. It was assuredly a magnificent view, and one wliicli will in time lead many feet to the ledges now mainly enjoyed by berry-pickei's, bears in- cluded. To the west lay barrens similar to those which are said to cover the interior of this part of Cape Breton. Rocks, bushes, bare ledges, and hollows filled with sphagnum or pools of amber water were the prevailing elements in a country which now and then sustained a patch of low spruces or a larger body of mixed woods. The east was ocean, limitless and blue. But at our feet were the wild details of the great preci- pice which fell away from us twelve hundred feet to the waves. Over it several large black birds were sailing, and the first croak which came echoing up the cliffs from them disclosed their identity : they were not crows, but ravens. I had been told that when I reached Smoky I must keep an eye open for ravens ; and true enough, here they were. Our view northward was limited by the fact that the foreground was filled by the great mass of mountain which we were next to cross in order to look down upon Ingonish. Nevertheless, a wide expanse of ocean showed in the northeast, and the heads of distant mountains crowded to- gether in the northwest. Between sea and moun- tains we could catch one glimpse of a nearer head- land, with a church steeple rising from a village at FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 35 its heel. It was the southern view which held us enchanted even when we felt that we must pause no longer. From the foot of Smoky back to the far seclusion of St. Anne's Bay the cliff-lined coast we had traversed lay in profile before us. Headland after headland pointed eastward, and valley after valley wound back among the hills and forests. From St. Anne's Bay the coast turned eastward and ran away into distance, coming out boldly at Cape Dauphin and Point Aconi, and retreating; a^aiu at the mouth of the Bras d'Or and the entrance to Sydney Harbor. Later in the afternoon Smoky gave us one more view, which, by reason of marvelous lights and shadows in the sky, was even more beautiful than any other picture which Cape Breton or Minas Basin revealed to us. We had descended many a steep slope, and passed through a fine primeval forest where lofty beeches, yellow birches, hemlocks, and spruces presented much the same aspects which I love so well to see on the Lost Trail. We had rounded one shoulder of the mountain where the edge of the road had slipped down four or five hundred feet into a brook bed, leaving only room for a wagon to pass between the unguarded edge of the ravine and the gravel bank which rose from the road on its other side. A horse having already plunged down there, I, even on my own feet, 36 FEOAf BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. (lid not like the sensation of i)assing this spot. AV'hen I heard that the mail carrier went by it in his sulky or sleigh night after night, summer and winter, I wished that the highway connnis- sioners for this district could he compelled to travel with him on his dangerous way. Soon after leaving this place, the road came out on an open hillside commanding an uninterrupted view of all that part of Cape Breton lying north of Cape Smoky. The coast in profile extended northward until its details were lost in dis- tance. Bays, headlands, islands, sandy beaches, lighthouses, cosy villages, passing ships, sailing ravens, and sparkling waves shone on the right, while on the left mountain after mountain, all heavily wooded, though showing many a bare cliff or sculptured summit, filed away from fore- ground to distance in mighty ranks. A huge mass of storm cloud, sent down from the Bay of St. Lawrence, was sweeping proudly across the sky from west to east. At some points it was inky black and quivering with lightning, at others it -was white or gray, while on the edges of the thunderlieads golden reflections from the hidden sun gleamed as the banners of the cloud army which slowly spread across the j^lains of blue. In the north there arose the dim out- line of a high mountain. We linew that it must be very near to Cape North, and we fancied that FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 37 from its summit Newfoundland's gloomy crags might be seen across the sea. One of the nearer mountains attracted our notice by its strange outline. As it lay against a background of black cloud, its profile of naked rock was sharply cut, and high up on its precip- itous face a slender column of stone projected from the mass, as a ship's figurehead leans for- ward from the bows. It was like a human form poised over a black abyss, yet lifting its weak arms towards heaven. From among the nearer mountains a river could be seen winding towards the sea. It came along the foot of Smoky, spread into a landlocked basin, yet found a narrow chan- nel for itself between a lighthouse and a bar, and so gained the outer bay. This outer bay was cut in twain by a slender rocky promon- tory, with picturesque outlines, high cliffs, and deep clefts in its side. On the northern margin of the farther bay was Ingonish village, and along the western border of the nearer bay — on the bar, in fact, or close to it and the lighthouse — was another hamlet, called Ingonish South Bay. It was to this nearer village at our feet that we looked with most interest, for it was our ultima Thule. INGONISH, BY LAND AND SEA. Under the northern shadow of Cape Smoky there is a double bay, cut in two by a rocky pe- ninsula called Middle Head. Into the half of the bay next to Smoky, and chafing restlessly against the foundations of its richly colored cliffs, runs the Ingonish River, which comes from the al- most impenetrable forests and morasses of the in- terior of northern Cape Breton to pour its clear waters into the ocean. No bridge crosses the stream, and the traveler who descends from the heights of Smoky towards the fishermen's ham- let of Ingonish South Bay, which he sees scat- tered upon a sandy spit at his feet, finds himself halting upon the edge of deep, swift water, with cove on his left and bay on his right, and never a sign of a way across. If his voice is strong and clear, he may waken the fishermen's dogs on the other shore, and, what is more to the purpose, bring a red-haired, blue-eyed lad to the flatboat on the sand, and to the big sweep which will presently urge it across to the foot of the red cliffs. The people of Ingonish are in part of Irish parentage and in part of Scotch, but they are INGONISII, BY LAND AND SEA. ?>0 almost all members of the Roman communion, and made of different stuff from the blue Pres- byterian Highlanders who dwell along the coast between Cape Smoky and the head of St. Anne's Bay. In the best of the houses, which stand one beyond another on the South Bay beach, lives Mr. Baker, whose hospitality makes a journey beyond Smoky a possibility, and more than that, a pleasure. Here may be laid aside the stoicism needed to sustain life during the journey up the north shore ; and here, in the midst of restless ocean, tawny sands, red cliffs, undulating forests, and brooks alive with trout, can be found all that nature can give to stimulate happiness or to lull the troubled mind, and all that the reason- able wanderer can expect to find to make his weary flesh comfortable. In the days which we spent at Mr. Baker's we learned to love Ingonish more and more, as we explored it by land and by sea. I. BY LAND. The breath of fire floated In the air, making it hazy, softening the mountain contours, giving a wicked look to the sea, and filling me, through its perfume, with the same feeling of unrest that the moose and caribou have as they feel the smoke of burning- forests tinfrlinir in their nostrils. 40 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. Looking inland, I saw the hills marshaled along the river, rank behind rank, with their relative distances clearly defined by the smoke. The mercury was above 90° Fahrenheit, and moim- tain climbing was not to be thought of. Middle Head, seen across the waves, suggested cool breezes, and towards its lean, half -grassy, half- rocky finger, pointing ever eastward, we took our way. From Mr. Baker's, half a mile of sandy road runs northward parallel with an ideally beautiful beach. Then the road bends to the left, inland, while the beach curves to the right, seaward^ rising soon into sandy banks, which in turn change to sculptured cliffs at whose foot the sea murmurs. Terns with black-tipped wings skimmed close to the restless waves, and over the fretted sand where the ripples had left the marks of their lips. No one walked upon the road where man had scratched together badly the same sand which nature had made perfect by the tides. When I looked at Ingonish beach as it was, silent, lonely, serene, and pure, I thought what it might some day be made if fashionable men and women, on pleasure bent, chanced to dis- cover it and to feel the thrill of its sun-tempered tide, which is as mild as that of their favorite but more southern shores. Now, at least, the absence of hotels where such men and women INGONISn, BY LAND AND SEA. 41 might be fed and put to bed, if by chance the sea or their own feet cast them upon these dis- tant sands, makes it certain that they will not come to banish Eden by their presence. Between the sand beach and the road there rises a massive wall of rounded stones, varying in size from a goose egg to a hmnan skull. Can waves alone have raised such a dike ? The same question came to me as I studied a similar wall running along the seaward side of the bar which well nigh makes St. Anne's Bay a lake, and Torquil McLean's ferry a superfluity instead of a somewhat malodorous joy. Perhaps the fact that often, in winter, the ice comes stealing across from Newfoundland and the seas that lie beyond it, and packs itself against St. Anne's bar and all the north coast of Cape Breton, may explain these walls. The thrust of the ice could scour the shallows for miles, and bear along loose stones to the first beach whose sloping face would receive them. The density of the ar- rangement of these stones, and the abruptness of the front which they present to the sea, point to ice action rather than to that of waves alone. The wall is so high that those walking or driv- ing along the road cannot see the beach, while those bathing cannot see the country inland. Shut in between shingle and sea, we walked the length of the sand, and then climbed to the top of the bluffs of Middle Head. 42 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. The evening before, while watching meteors from the Leach, we had seen the sky above Middle Head suddenly lighted up l)y a bright fire. It lasted ten or fifteen minutes, then died away so quickly that we felt sure no building could have been destroyed. Now, on the nar- row path leading along the edge of the cliffs, we met three men. They bowed and touched their caps with the smiling politeness characteristic of most of the natives, Gaelic or Irish. I asked them what and where the fire had been ; and in a few words they said that Rory This had bought the right to cut grass on Sandy That's land, but that after the hay was made a dispute arose as to the price ; so the hay had been burned to quiet the trouble. I confess I could not reason out the process by which either Rory who had labored, or Sandy who had owned the grass, could find comfort in putting match to the hay. Some of the rock which supported Sandy's scorched hayfield, and which formed portions of the cliffs of Middle Head, contrasted strik- ingly with the prevailing red syenite of the Ingonish region. It was white ; not, however, like newly fallen snow, but like that which this world has somewhat soiled. Gypsum, or " plas- ter," as Cape Breton calls it, occurs in many places on the Bras d'Or and along the north INGONISn, BY LAND AND SEA. 43 coast. It suffers much more from the action of water and frost than the liarder rocks surround- ing it, so that where it appears on the surface there are sure to be odd depressions in the soil, " sink holes," into which earth and trees have settled ; or, in cliff faces, deep hollows, coves, or caverns. The path along Middle Head follows closely the trend of the shore, and from it we found ourselves looking down into the most sug- gestive little cove that smugglers would care to own or story- writers to dream over. Its open- ing to the sea was narrow, and all its walls were high and steep, yet it had a tiny sand beach where a boat could land easily even if storm waves beat angrily on the stern cliffs outside. About halfway out on the Head we came upon a spring, — a cup-shaped hollow in the mud, filled with sun-warmed watei*, — which tempted lis to rest near it under the low pines and spruces, where Cape Smoky could be seen across the bay, its richly toned cliffs wonderfully worn by waves, and its lofty head resting in the haze that gives the mountain promontory its name. Its outer point, which cuts in twain waves unchecked from the Grand Banks, is called " the Bill of Smoky." From this point back to the Ingonish light the syenite crags rise supreme above waves or ice. Near the light- house the lines of Smoky grow more gentle. 44 FRO^f BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. The forest, wliich above the ]3ill is but a narrow line next the sky, sh)pes downward to the placid water inside the bar, and rolls on westward to join otlier expanses of spruce and birch, hem- lock and maple, which clothe the mountains and fill the river valley with soft foliage. While dreamily watching this fair northern picture, as it quivered in the heat of a half-tropical day, we were startled by a sudden cry which came from the waves far below. Then a man, with a coil of rope on his arm, passed us, and went cau- tiously to the edge of the precipice, over which he peered and made signals. Thoughts of smug- glers, of hidden wines brought by night from St. Pierre, of a discovery by the smugglers that we knew of their landing-place, and finally of the consequences of their discovery, floated through our minds, already saturated with the romantic elements of Ingonish scenery and life. Then more men came, and passed. They too crept to the edge and looked into the dizzy waves beneath. One of them lowered the rope over the cliff, and seemed to be trying to lasso something many feet below. Our curiosity prevailed over our timidity, and we drew near to the edge of the rock. The vision of smuggled champagne faded, and in its place was put the truth : that a sheep had gone over the cliff to a narrow shelf more than halfway down to the sea, and that these INGONISII, BY LAND AND SEA. 45 men were trying to rescue him alive, while a boy in a boat tossed by waves below shouted advice to them. Middle Head, and many a mile of coast north of it, is the home of the raven, or " big crow," as the Ingonish people call him. Close to the smuggler's cove a long, ragged point juts out from the cliffs. At its extremity huge masses of broken rock lie in the wash of the tide. As we passed this point, I saw an uncanny shape squatted upon its outer rock. It was a bird, web-footed, gaunt, black, vidture - headed, yet with a sac, a hideous skinny object, fitted like a pelican's pouch beneath its beak. A native pass- ing said it was a " shag," which meant nothing to me until I found that " shag " and " cormo- rant " were two equally expressive names for this same nightmarish bird of rock and wave. I crept out upon the point, first skulking behind wild rose bushes and goldenrod, and then coast- ing down a sandy slope, out of sight of the spec- tre I was stalking. Gaining the water's edge, I clambered along among huge rocks upon which seaweeds grew and trailed their fingers in the tide, and so came nearer and nearer to the shag. Suddenly I looked up as a huge shadow swept over me, and saw, black and big against the hot sky, a passing bird which watched me with keen eyes. Growing from the rocks which overhung 46 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. me was a hunchbacked pine, the sport of every mocking wind that harried this rough coast, and in its bent branches sat five ravens. They croaked, but did not fly, satisfied to watch me as I squirmed over the rocks towards the black beast with a throat sac. In coloring and shape they were like crows, yet I knew they were not crows ; something in the shape of the head was different; they did not treat me as crows woidd have done. I felt that they were strangers. When I reached the last rock which could by any chance shield my body from the cormorant, I raised my head very slowly until my eyes came upon a level with the rock's upper surface. About twenty feet away, clasping with its hide- ous feet the last rock left naked by the tide, sat the shag. It seemed to me that it might be a bittern which, having offended against the gods, had been condemned to leave its beloved meadows and thickets, whispering rushes and perfumed grasses, in order to pass ages upon the shores of a sobbing ocean in which it should find no peace and no abiding-place. Its garb looked as sack- cloth and ashes might well look after a thorough soaking in salt water. When it craned upwards its skinny neck and panted, it reached the climax of its loathsomeness, for the livid sac pulsated under its distressed breathing. I had watched the horrid fish-eater long enough, so, rising to my INGONISII, BY LAND AND SEA. 47 full height, I had the satisfaction of seeing the monster shrink into itself with fear, turn its ugly countenance seaward, and then flap away over the hot, sparkling waves until almost out of sight. When half a mile out, it turned and flew slowly along the crest of the waves towards the rocky cliffs of Middle Head, and then dropped suddenly into the water, upon which it remained bobbing like a duck. Free from this incubus, I looked once more upon the home of the ravens, — the hunchbacked pine, the shattered rocks, and, far above them, the cliffs upon whose inaccessible ledges young ravens first see light. The surroundings were those of a sturdier bird than the crow. There were no gently sighing forests, waving corn-fields, or placid lakes here, but instead the stern crags, rude sea, and broken rocks, — makers of deep, angry music, harsh discords, and wild, sorrow- ful refrains. The crow boasts from the moment his loud voice first comes back to his ears from the echoing hillside, he steals from the time he sees the corn blades start from the furrow, and he shuns danger as often as the tread of man or deer snaps a dry twig in the forest. The raven's croak can wake no echo to match the sea's cho- rus, his food is not won by theft, and dangers which come from sky and tossing wave are not such as to stimulate craft or to inculcate wari- ness. 48 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. 11. BY SEA. All (lay long heat had quivered in the air and sparkled on the sea, but now, at evening, there was coolness creeping in from the ocean, past crag and sand, banishing ennui and tightening strong muscles as they tugged at the oars. The coolness and the wind seemed to have little to do with each other ; for the wind was westerly, and came down river from the forest-clad moun- tains, while the coolness came in from the east mider the deep shadow which the red cliffs of Smoky cast upon the bay. Thump, thump, the oars pounded forward and back upon the thole- pins, and the boat moved slowly forward inside the bar towards the gut. The heavy sail did us no service ; merely made me more alone in the twilight, as I sat in the bow, with my back to the mast, and watched the waves heave under us. We were turning our backs to the hills now, and heading straight out through the gut. On the right was the lighthouse with its newly lit red star glowing inside the polished lenses. Above it towered the beginning of Smoky's cliffs, still deep red in the twilight, or green where the forest far above caught the last rays INGONISII, BY LAND AND SEA. 49 of a fair smiset glow. On the left, the long beach and bar ended in a pier, with fish-houses and boats, men smoking, cod drying on the flakes, lobster pots piled up for the season, and collie dogs watching life go by on the tide, or dream- ing as they lay on the dry nets. Dead ahead, a fisherman's boat was coming in close to the pier, its oars splashing in the chojipy sea where inner and outer waters wrestled in the nar- row pass. Our oars thumped louder, and we shot through the swirl, and out past light- house, pier, boats, rocks, and the residue of land and life, towards where the sea, the sky, and Smoky lived in a great dream together. Surely this place was beautiful, and to-night, as I sat in the bow alone, the flapping sail behind me, the rise and fall, the heave, surge, and wash of the sea lent a magic joy to the voyage we were taking out to the Bill of Smoky. I looked far ahead and strained my eyes to see what was beyond ; and then I thought, what matters it to look, to strive to see an end, a goal, when there is no end, no goal, to see ? This is no mountain, with ridge after ridge to surmount, and an ultimate j)eak to conquer, with all its prizes of prostrate earth and nearer clouds to look upon. This is only the sea with its monoto- nous level, having in its endlessness no incen- tive to action, no stimulus to struggle. Still I 50 FRO^f BLOMIDU.S TO SMOK i'. ke})t f^azing out into the distance;, and wonder- ing- whetlier some dim sail would not apj)ear in the gloom, or some rock rise from among the hillows for our l)oat to hreak itself against. As we glided on our undulating path across the restless water, the dark mass of Cape Smoky- attended us on our right like a shadow. The waves splashed incessantly upon the broken rocks at the foot of the cliffs, and sometimes in the hollow of a wave not far from us a jagged mass of rock flashed menacingly for a moment before the water slid over it again and hid its threat from our eyes. The hand of time falls heavily upon the red sandstone, and every year huge pieces of rock drop into the sea and be- come the sport of the tide. At one point a but- tress of rock protruded into the bay, and through it I could see light. The busy waves and frosts had carved an arch in the stone, through which birds could fly and storm winds blow. Far up the cliff a brook, which had worked patiently downward from the soil on the summit of the mountain, appeared in a circular opening, and dashed its small spray seaward. Most brooks must fight their way over boulders and fallen trees, through dark ravines, by hot waysides and sleepy meadows, at last to win only a right to merge their lives in the greater life of the river. This brook had gone straight to its mother ocean. INGONISfl, BY LAND AND SEA. 51 unchecked, unturned, and when its clear, cool drops fell towards the sea they were as pure as when they left the sky. The brook seemed symbolic of some lives, which, though living out their appointed time, go back to the source of life without ever having been polluted by society, or lost in its sullen and ill-regulated current. Thump, thump, thump, the oars worked with their clumsy rhythm, urging us eastward, and out towards the line of rough water beyond the Bill. The swell grew stronger, and now and then the boat rose so high or fell so low that my dream was interrupted by the emphasis of the motion. Far behind us the red eye of the lighthouse glared at the mouth of the harbor, and marked upon each wave's edge the path by which we had come, close under the shelter of the cliffs. A few strokes more and we were abreast of the Bill, that idtimate wedge of rock which Smoky thrusts into the northern sea, piercing the cold waves, and dividing the fierce storm currents beating down from Newfoundland. The wind was fresher in the unprotected sea, and the lighthouse with its nestling lights upon the bar seemed much farther away than it had a mo- ment or two before. A sense of loneliness, al- most of danger, crept over us, and by common consent the boat was turned backward into the 52 FROM BLOMIDON TO SMOKY. sliclter of the great rock, and the homeward voy- age begun. It was now my turn at the oar, and a thrill passed through me as I grasped the great sweep and wrestled over it with the waves. Night had fallen. All color had died on the red cliffs of Smoky. Stars had burned their way into the dark blue sky, and among them stray meteors fell seaward, or glided athwart the constellations. A year before, I had spent the long hours of the night on the peak of Chocorua, watching these wayward waifs of sjDace as they danced behind the cloud curtains of the storm. Now, with all a Viking's zeal, I tugged at my big oar, pounded my tholepin, made deep eddies chase each other in the dark water, and breathed joy- ously deep breaths of the salt northern air. What contrasts man may make for himself, in his life, if he jaelds to the spirit of restlessness within him ! The Vikings yielded to it, and swept the northern seas, and I felt in my weak arms something of their strength and wanton- ness as I urged the boat homewards under Smoky's shadow. Black rocks, placid sea, bright stars, dancing meteors, and breath of the north- ern ocean, — I had them all, even as the Norse- men had them. A faint protest came from the other side of the boat. We were not rowino; a race : there INGONISH, BY LAND AND SEA. 53 was no hurry ; and if I cut inshore any farther we should go on the rocks. So I eased my frantic stroke, and watched the phosphorescence play in my oars' eddies. In the sky, bright masses ploughed their way through our air, im- pelled by an unknown force, driven from an unknown distance, and aiming for an unknown fate. In the sea, bright atoms ploughed their way through the water and glowed in soft splendor. The meteors are inorganic, dead mysteries. The jjliosphorescence is an organic, living mystery. Yet it is no more impossible to imagine the history and future of a body per- petually traveling through endless space than to try to count the numbers of these phosphor- escent myriads. Generally I have the feeling that science is bringing us nearer to a perception of what the vast creation is which surrounds us, but at times the greater truth flashes before my eyes, — that what we are really learning is not more than a drop in the limitless ocean of fact. The row back to the lighthouse seemed shorter than the voyage out, partly because we really went faster, and partly because we had less detail to look at, now that the night had covered the beauties of the many-toned cliffs and the distant mountains. When we shot through the gut from the bay to the inner basin. 54 FROM BLOMIDON TO BMOKY. the air became damper and the darkness more intense. AVith caution and frequent peering ahead we rowed towards the creek in which we were to land. Here a shoal had to be avoided, there a fisherman's boat passed by. Now in the gloom we could discern a mass of willows in which the kingfishers had been sounding their loud call during the day, and be- yond them loomed up the timbers of the old mill whose wreck was to be our pier. Poor old mill, it had been starved to death by tariffs, a grim punishment for its slaughter of many a good king of the forest. We landed, and in the soft stillness made our stumbling way across field and pasture to the cosy Ingonish parlor, where, in strange contrast to rugged coast, and stern mountain, and the general simplicity of the fishermen's houses on the shore, we had found refinement, comfort, and open hospitality. Beyond the great wall of rounded stones, raised by ice and storm, lay the beach. The rippling waves played softly upon the firm sand, making dainty lines across it. We could hear the murmur of those waves and the faint rustle of the breeze in the shrubbery. All was peace and gentleness, yet under that kindly music those who knew Ingonish Bay could hear other voices. High in the air the powers of the storm were holding council, and deep in the sea the INGONISU, BY LAND AND SEA. 55 tides were planning to hurl themselves upon the shore. It is always so by the northern ocean ; and when the waves break most lovingly ujjon Smoky, the old mountain and his children the fishermen are most alert for the tempest which is to follow. THE HOME OF GLOOSCAP. There are siren voices at Ingonish. I can say this with confidence, because I heard one, and it rings in my ears now, and will ring there as long as memory lasts. I was lying on the sun- lit sand outside the cobblestone wall of Ingonish South Bay beach, dreaming. To my right rose the red, forest-capped wall of Smoky, on my left was Middle Head, and behind me many a mountain side walled in the valley. Suddenly, the heavens, the bluffs, and the mountains gave out a sound which made my heart stand still. It had the force of thunder and the pitch of agony. I was told afterwards that the first time the sound startled Ingonish was at night, and that people fled from their houses or fell upon their knees, thinking the day of reckoning had come. Springing to my feet, I saw, coming slowly past the cliffs of Smoky and towards the lighthouse at the pier, a good-sized steamer. It was the Ilarlaw, from Halifax via the Bras d'Or lakes, on her way to Newfoimdland. As I lay upon the sand, I hjid been dreaming of a voyage across those sixty miles of sea to the rock-bound THE HOME OF GLOOSCAP. 57 island just out of sight below the ocean's cheek. The Harlaw's siren had banished the dream in more senses than one. To take the steamer now was imj)ossible, and only by that steamer could I go to Newfoundland. The next morning, consequently, we turned our faces towards home, and started southward. Mr. Gillies also turned his face towards home, and started southward ; the difference being that in his case home was at Ingonish, north- ward, and that he faced it across a painful snarl of his own legs and arms, as he hung for dear life to the back of the wagon-seat, while I wal- loped his thin horse and enjoyed the comforts of the driver's cushion. Over the ferry, up Smoky, away from the home of the raven and the sweet charms of Ingonish, on, on, on we went, mile after mile, until the thin horse wearied of life, and the snarls in Mr. Gillies's legs caused him to groan aloud. At times I ventured on conver- sation with Mr. Gillies. When I spoke, and my quavering intonations reached his ears, a re- verberating " Sorr-r-r ? " was usually hurled at me with such force as to banish, momentarily, all idea of what it was I meant to say. An opinion from me was always indorsed by Mr. Gillies in one of two ways : warmly, by " Jist ; " less confidently, by "Aye — yi — yi," uttered with outward fervor. In an endeavor to learn 5