. SEAS ERS o AB @ OK OF. THE Wi LDERN ESS” AND JU NGLE | BR.GL AK LALO BuRwWG lS. av) seshanie me vias 3 need at ae ae a ie so ahs Ab a f “ » Gg ll Dea Portal wih ii bi Digitized by the Internet Archive ine in 2007 with funding from a Microsoft Corporation ld “st Mepis = + wort, Sori . ae ca a — whe. = Beat 3 ee ap om oo ae ee i | : :/www.archive.org/details/bookofwildernessO0aflauott | ee ee ae Se A BOOK OF THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE ’ J Ls Pala (6 0g ae \ 7 Cua edd a> 4 ic \ : “THE WATCHFULNESS OF THE ARGALI.” oat A.BOOK OF THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE EDITED BY F. G. AFLALO, F.R.G.S. AUTHOR OF ‘‘OUR AGREEABLE FRIENDS” ILLUSTRATED IN COLOUR AND BLACK AND WHITE BY E. F, CALDWELL oa + LONDON S. W. PARTRIDGE & CO.,.LTD. OLD BAILEY ee CONTENTS CHAPTER I. THE WILDERNESS Il. THe CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS III]. THE VENGEANCE OF THE WILD IV. THe TAMING OF THE WILD V. Tue PASSING OF THE WILD LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR ‘©THE WATCHFULNESS OF THE ARGALI” ‘* FULL ON A GREAT MOOSE” : - ‘‘ THe BOAR THINKS LITTLE OF DRINKING AT THE SAME WATERHOLE ” A - ‘* FROM THE CATTLE TO THEIR DRIVER WAS BUT A STEP” : ; : s “CLEAN THROUGH A HERD OF HARTE- BEEST ”” ; ; ci é ; : **So as TO BREAK THE LIoNn’s JAW” . IN BLACK AND WHITE ‘* Anp HissED SAVAGELY AT THE BOAR ” ‘Back CAME THE ELEPHANT IN NO END OF A Hurry” . 3 a : : ‘““’THe AFRICAN RHINOCEROS USES ITS HorRN FOR TOssING ITS ENEMY” ‘ A RARE ANTELOPE é . ‘ THE MEAL THAT MIGHT HAVE BEEN ‘*It MANAGES TO JUMP ON THE JAGUAR’S Back” : : ‘ , : é Frontispiece Facing page 28 74 104 156 192 PREFACE A PREFACE usually explains, or professes to explain, why a book is written. It may, asa rule, be taken as read that scores of friends have urged the author not to keep his know- ledge from the world. These friends then expect copies of the book when it appears. I cannot plead any such wholesale mandate. The book was written at the invitation of the pub- lishers, and for reasons not unwelcome to those who write books. Yet I would not have set about it if it had not seemed to filla gap. It attempts, in fact, to be a kind of Nature-study book on the larger scale, an introduction to the study of big game in our overseas possessions. It is not merely a book of adventure with wild animals, though its pages contain many thrilling stories of actual encounters told by those who took part in them. But it aims at something over and above this sensational treatment of the subject. Many volumes have been published during 9 10 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE the last few years on what is known as Nature- teaching. Some of these are very good, others only good, and further grades need not be specified. All of them attempt, more or less successfully, to rouse an interest in wild life, animal and vegetable, and to moderate the thirst for destroying it. The rare fern is treated as respectfully as the rare butterfly. There can be no doubt whatever that the excellent Boy Scout movement has in great measure been responsible for this literature, for there is obvious necessity for encouraging this combi- nation of observation and restraint in an immense body of youngsters suddenly turned loose, often without the embargo of trespass, in the most peaceful corners of England. Therefore book after book appears in which the Boy Scouts (and other boys who are too lazy to scout) are taught to watch squirrels without catapulting them and count the eggs in the blackbird’s nest without taking them. This is very admirable doctrine, and, so far as England is concerned, it could not be bettered. All lads are not, however, destined to stay in England. Many—one might say most—of the best and brightest turn their eyes to other PREFACE II lands, either in adventurous ambition to see the world, or from sheer compulsion to make their way in life with greater opportunities than they can find in the Old Country. Necessity, then, and choice combine to send thousands of young fellows every year to India, Africa, Canada, or those farther colonies that lie on the other side of the world. In one sense, no doubt, the Mother Country is the loser by this steady drain on the best of her blood, and it has even been compared with the loss of the strongest and bravest of her man- hood in war. Yet there is this difference that, whereas those who fall in battle are gone for all time, many who make a career overseas return home to end their days. This is true of practically all who, as soldiers, civil servants, or planters, go to India; and those who, in the kinder climates of other outposts of the Empire, settle permanently in their adopted home, remain loyal at heart to the old country and rally round her when she needs them. This book, then, is intended as an introduc- tion to Nature Study in those vast territories beyond the seas over which the British flag is still kept fiying. How different are they from 12 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE this little ‘‘Great” Britain of ours—of the quiet meadows with their moles and rabbits, little woods that would scarcely hide an elephant, rivers that are mere rills, lakes that might be ponds, and mountains little more than anthills when compared with the splendid majesty of Himalaya or the Rockies. Instead of such miniature scenes, we have to consider the Wilderness—desert, jungle, or mountain— vast, mysterious, in parts still untrodden by man, and the last stronghold of many beautiful or interesting creatures on the verge of dis- appearance. Here also, with some exceptions, the spirit of moderation should be encouraged, and something is said of this in the concluding chapter. The Passing of the Wild is inevit- able, but it may be indefinitely delayed by well-framed game-laws, which should limit the bag in the case of all animals save those which are dangerous, and which should entirely protect such species as are threatened with ex- tinction. The ‘‘Society for the Preservation of the Wild Fauna of the Empire” has chosen a clumsy title, but does admirable work in this direction, and an equally satisfactory spirit of PREFACE 13 protection has, even at the eleventh hour, become apparent in the nation which drove the wild buffalo of the prairies off the face of the earth. At the same time, it is necessary to use common sense in framing these regulations and to recognise that the injunction to spare life cannot be worded as peremptorily in the African or Indian jungle, as, for instance, in Epping Forest. For one thing, many of the wild animals are exceedingly savage and dangerous. The lion, tiger, and leopard, to quote only three, do not hesitate to attack natives and annually destroy immense quantities of cattle, sheep, goats, and poultry. Euro- peans, it is true, are, as a rule, not molested by these animals unless they wound them first, though even to this immunity there are excep- tions. But Europeans are morally responsible for the safety and well-being of those whose birthright they administer, and they should consider themselves bound to shoot every lion or tiger they may come across, even at some personal risk and discomfort. In the chapter entitled ‘‘ Vengeance of the Wild” the reader will find details of terrible encounters with 14 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE infuriated wild animals, many of them ending in the sportsman’s death, others involving escapes little short of miraculous. No one, after reading these stories, is likely to plead for the protection of lions and tigers, at any rate, though there are, no doubt, people who hold it wicked to kill a flea. Again, it must be borne in mind that those who travel in the heart of a country like Africa, even where sport is not the primary object of their expedition, must provide meat for their native followers as well as for themselves, and the negro eats a deal of meat when on the march. It would be ridiculous to forbid the shooting of antelopes, or even of an occasional giraffe or hippopotamus, with so many mouths to feed. It is easy for stay-at-home folk, with a butcher’s shop round the corner, to preach such comfortable doctrine, but out in the wild places life is measured by other standards than those that suffice the complacent folk of cities. Last, but not least, there is the freedom of sport. I am not going to insist, in the thrilling language of a florid prospectus recently issued with a sporting work of reference, that ‘‘our national games make national heroes,” for I PREFACE 15 am of those unappreciative people who believe that a man may be a hero even though he has never watched a football match or shot a pigeon out ofatrap. At the same time, there can be very little doubt that those who have the courage and endurance to go into the jungle after tiger, or into the Himalaya after wild sheep, learning, as ‘they go, the virtue of dogged patience and the arts of woodcraft, stalking, intercourse with native tribesmen and getting over difficult country in quick time— these men must be valuable assets to their country in the hour of their country’s need. While, therefore, sportsmen should be sub- jected to fair and reasonable restraint, made to pay for their amusement, debarred from killing more than a strictly limited number of beasts, and utterly prohibited from shooting the females of some and both sexes of others, it would be a bad day that should see the sport of big game hunting unconditionally forbidden or, worse still, losing its attraction for English- men abroad. This book does not pretend to offer information as to camping requisites or rifles, though hints as to season and locality will here and there be found. Many adven- 1 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE tures with dangerous game are related in its pages, and most of these have been specially contributed. There is, however, no account of shooting either giraffe or hippopotamus, for these should be shot only when meat is needed for the natives, and such grisly necessity does not fall under the head of sport. There is a single interesting story of an elephant hunt in Rhodesia. If the admission of this narrative should be at variance with the view expressed elsewhere in the book on the pity of slaying so grand a creature for its ivory, it must be re- membered that, when wounded at any rate, and sometimes even without provocation, an elephant is one of the most terrible of all wild animals, and, as will be seen in Chapter ITI, only one other, the lion, has killed so many men in the history of African sport and explo- ration. There will also be found an exciting narrative of the manner in which the native Arab hunters ride down the giraffe, killing the animal with their wonderful two-handed swords. This kind of hunting has not often been witnessed by Europeans, and this account, contributed by an officer who actually took part, was too interest- PREFACE 17 ing to omit. Moreover, though we rightly regard the giraffe as a creature worthy of pro- tection from the tourist’s rifle, it is perfectly legitimate for these native swordsmen to kill it by such means for the sake of its meat, as the animal is bagged only after an arduous chase, not wholly free from danger. There is a third possibility in our relations with the wild creatures in addition to the alter- native of either killing them or leaving them in peace. We can tame them, and the subject is fraught with such interesting traditions in the past and such curious possibilities for the future that it has been thought worthy of a short chapter to itself, dealing not so much with the horse, dog, and other domestic animals familiar at home, as with the camel, reindeer, yak, and such beside as still exist in the wild state. There are, it is true, wild horses in a restricted area of Western Asia, and, in a sense also, there are wild dogs, but the relationship is less close than in the case of those named above. For the uninspired descriptions of some aspects of the Wilderness, which form the subject of the opening chapter, I am humbly apologetic. My sense of futility in making this B 18 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE unavoidable attempt is the more disheartening because I actually have been in such places and even made notes of what most impressed me at the time and on the spot. None the less, they beat me, utterly. Perhaps those describe them best who know them least. I understand that the most lifelike pictures of battle and the most realistic accounts of executions have been achieved by gifted men who never witnessed either, and I know one writer, at any rate, who has given us the most convincing pictures of the wilderness without ever having set foot within a hundred miles of it. Such imagina- tion is a blessed gift which my fairy godmother withheld from me and which would have been better than my equipment of pencil and note- book and the desire to see realities. Yet I can only offer the wares that are in my pack. My heartfelt thanks are due to those who have helped me in the writing of this book. First and foremost I must thank the Editor and Proprietors of Zhe Feld for kind permission to quote from its teeming pages anecdotes of shtkar, and the Secretary of the Royal Colonial Institute for having placed at my disposal the files of many African and Indian periodicals. PREFACE 19 Then I must record my obligations to the sportsmen who have so generously contri- buted their experiences, including Mr. Edwin Arnold, Mr. H. A. Bryden, Lord Egmont, Sir Godfrey Lagden, k.c.m.c., Major Stevenson Hamilton, Major Edgar Herapath, p.s.o., Colonel S. J. Lea, c.3., Sir William Lee- Warner, G.c.s.1., Dr. Tom Longstaff, Professor Lloyd Morgan, Major Murray, Mr. H. C. de la Poer, Mr. Percy Reid, Sir Henry Seton- Karr, c.M.G., Colonel Nevill Maskelyne Smyth, v.c., Colonel Williamson, Major F. G. Talbot, D.s.O., and many others. revwies Whe So BLN =f a ; § - 2 a TH ¢ Ae re : we é ee ee ee eee i ers a7) Ad .! ; Py I THE WILDERNESS It is by no means easy, in the midst of this built-over, cultivated, and thickly peopled England of ours, to realise the great spaces of the wilderness. So destructive of other effects and impressions are the conditions of civilisa- tion, that there is difficulty, even for those of us who have known the wild places, to recall their appearance once we are back in cities. With church spires and factory chimneys cutting the sky in every direction, we are apt to forget the grander symmetry of bamboo and teak. The shriek of the locomotive survives the song of rivers, and the hum of crowds brings unwelcome forgetfulness of Nature’s silence. Here and there, even in modern Eng- land, in such corners of Salisbury Plain as are not overrun by our brave defenders, or on the lonely heights of misty Dartmoor, away from the trail of the tourist, it is still possible to sense something of the sweeter solitudes ; but such opportunities, already few, are dwindling every year. 23 24 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE The wilderness eludes me when I try to de- _scribe its grandeur, and I realise with profound humiliation the vanity of trying to introduce the reader to the baffling mystery of the forest or the haunting glare of the desert. The witching hour in the forest is that of dawn, and I have loved the cold silence of its waking away in the dreary timberlands of Canada and Russia, as well as in the luxuriant jungle of the Eastern tropics. Such virgin forest gives precious isolation from the little worries of men, and its desolate beauty provides a fitting frame for the last years on earth of many noble animals that are making their final stand against the march of civilisation in these all but im- penetrable thickets. It may seem a paradox, but lifelessness is the keynote of these forest scenes. Sir Henry Seton-Karr tells me that he once walked right on an old bull buffalo asleep in the open plains of Africa, getting to within five yards of the animal before it woke up. This he regards as a very unusual case, the only one, indeed, within his wide experience of many continents. Indeed, even where not much hunted, and, in consequence, not afraid of man, this curious alertness is typical of all the wild creatures. Though animals of the open plain depend mainly on their eyesight for keeping out of THE WILDERNESS 25 danger, the jungle creatures owe their safety to scent or hearing. Sir Henry Seton-Karr thinks that jungle game rarely move until absolutely certain of the danger. He tells me that he once rode, in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, within a hundred yards of a black- tail buck, which stood among some trees and there, no doubt, thought itself hidden from view. The party did not happen to want the animal and so rode on. The buck stood so motionless that it might have been carved in stone. Just as the rest were riding out of sight, Sir Henry pulled up and looked steadily at the buck, which in a flash bounded out of sight. He also remembers having a driven red-deer hind pass him within twenty yards as he sat on a log in the heart of a Norwegian pine-forest. Had she got wind of him, she would have sprung high in the air and galloped off in another direction. Yet the cunning of woodland deer, when aware of danger, is almost uncanny. Sir Henry once saw a stag deliberately lie down in a pine-forest, wait until the drivers had passed it, and then quietly return to the woods and so out of danger. Harmony with surroundings, or what is sometimes, though less satisfactorily, called **protective colouring,’’ is very characteristic of many jungle creatures. The same sports- man assures me that even so large an animal 26 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE as the Scandinavian elk, a greyish black deer standing twenty hands and weighing 1500 lbs., is often exceedingly difficult to see in its native pine-forests. The elephant of the African cedar-forest fits its background so perfectly that a sportsman has before now been known to see nothing of one till he suddenly became aware of its trunk waving gently almost over his head. On one occasion, indeed, Sir Henry himself, while hunting in an African water- course, nearly sat on a sixteen-feet python. ‘*But,”’ as he quaintly adds, ‘‘the African jungle is full of surprises.” Those who have never wandered in the jungle, knowing it only in books of ad- venture, picture it alive with animals that show themselves at all hours. The truth is that they are all in hiding, and can be seen only in one of two ways, by either watching silently, or by driving the forest with a host of beaters. The latter, which is the more usual method with those in a hurry, gives only a fleeting glimpse of the jungle-folk under most unnatural conditions, as they fly panic-stricken for their lives. He who sits up at night in a machan comes nearer to the truth. I remember such a daybreak, in the depth of winter, in a Russian forest a hundred and fifty miles from St. Petersburg. To reach this outlandish spot, it had been necessary to drive THE WILDERNESS 27 from the nearest station on the Trans-Siberian Railway in an open country cart over miles of snow and ice, and to be ferried, cart and all, across a half-frozen river at the hour of mid- night. It was not what might be called luxurious travel. Nor, at journey’s ending, was there soft luxury in the little hut of snow and boughs in which I was presently enclosed with my rifle and bidden to crouch till break of day, not even daring to smoke for fear of scaring the game. In the sequel, the game showed no appreciation of my self-denial and stayed away. Nota sign did I see of anything more terrible than a hare, though this vast Government forest is well stocked with bear, elk, wolves, and other wild animals. Yet I am quite as certain now as I was even in the disappointment and discomfort of the moment that the awakening of that far northern forest, as little birds broke into song and the feeble sun crimsoned the sparkling branches, more than repaid me for the cold and sleepless night that went before. Less rigorous, and even more attractive, is another picture I recall of daybreak, one summer’s morning, in a lonely forest of New Brunswick, camped on the left bank of the singing Miramichi. Here, in untrodden back- woods, I stayed for ten days, far from the haunts of man, poling down the stream in a 28 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE crazy dug-out, camping each night beside some likely salmon pool, bathing, fishing, dozing, as I watched the wild creatures of an evening, living in unconditional surrender to the irre- sistible spell of the wilderness. That was the forest primeval that Longfellow sings of in ‘‘Evangeline,’’ and through it ran the turbulent river, singing loudly as it wound along to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, babbling of the voyageurs and the coureurs des bots who are gone. Fir and larch and spruce and pine, with patches of hardwoods between, shot up tall, straight, and slender along both banks, and modest wild flowers made the clearings gay with colour. It is true that few of the trees showed great stature, for forest fires have taken heavy toll of the Lower Provinces, and most of the timber now standing is second growth, yet the peace of the Canadian wilderness is white magic. Its stillness deafens ears accustomed to the roar of traffic. As I lay down at night on the aromatic bed of fir-boughs piled by the guide, and lazily blinked at the last dying embers of the camp fire, the still darkness seemed to reverberate with sound, and it was not until after some interruption in the shape of a clumsy porcupine nosing among the stores, or a startled deer dashing through the clearing, that the silence made itself felt. The most en- trancing waterways in the backwoods are the ve @ 3. « EVEL (ON A GREAT MOOSE; at THE WILDERNESS 29 brooks tributary to the main river and running to it from hill or lake beneath a lattice archway of greenery. Gliding silently down such a brook, my canoe shot one evening round a bend and full on a great moose that was busy crunching the lily-pads. So intent was the clumsy deer on its summer salad that a few moments elapsed ere the ugly head went up, - and then, with a defiant snort of anger at being disturbed, the giant went full gallop up the steep bank, and turned again on a hill-top to snort again before crashing away into the timber. Very different from these northern forests, yet akin with the spirit of the wilderness, is the eastern jungle, with its massive pillars of teak and bamboo and deodar, its fern-clumps and giant rhododendrons, and the serpentine creepers gay with gorgeous blooms. Here, too, are veritable seas of high grass, and the carpet is woven of ragwort, thistle, violet, cineraria, and other homelike flowers. Perched amid the hills in the forest are native villages, and down in the plains are ruined temples, steaming paddy-fields, and deserted tanks. The light in the eastern jungle is mystic. A strange, impressive gloom, in extraordinary contrast to the blinding glare in the open, pervades the aisles and transepts of Nature’s temples. There are times when this unearthly 30 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE light looks green, then blue, like that of a sea- cavern, and there is indescribable beauty in the changing effects as the sunlight filters through the leafy screen. Over all these tropical scenes, over cool forest and burning desert, broods the pitiless brazen sky, of copper hue throughout the day, but passing morning and evening through every shade of blue, indigo, turquoise, and back to ultramarine, violet as the sun goes down over the edge of the desert, and, just at the last, an uncanny green. I have noticed this strange green ending to the day in two arid regions, Egypt and Arizona, just after the going of the sun, and never in the open elsewhere. Another scene, almost within the tropics, not beautiful, perhaps, but with a picturesque- ness of its own, is to be found among the swampy Keys of Florida. In the early part of the year, when the sun still tempers strength with mercy, and the mosquitoes are not yet alive to their opportunities, this is a very pleasant land to do nothing in. Laziness is its creed. Like the alligators and the turtles, mankind in that region moves only under com- pulsion, and always unwillingly. In these mangrove swamps millions of fiddler-crabs lie basking in the sun, scuttling back to their burrows when disturbed with a noise like that of rushing water. Heavy reptiles lurk in the THE WILDERNESS 31 rank vegetation, and through evergreen cur- tains peep the herons and the egrets which Audubon described so well a hundred years ago, but which, alas! have been so ruthlessly destroyed by those who trade in feathers that the well-meant efforts of American societies organised for their protection come too late. Here also are bears and jaguars, though I did not, even in the wildest nooks of the Ever- glades, get a glimpse of either. Here, in the silent swamps, we used to dig out alligators amid the music of mocking-birds and the piping of quails, looking up from our labours at the heavy flight of pelicans and turkey-buzzards over the beaches and the more graceful soar- ing of fish-hawks out over the teeming waters. Very similar, and to the careless eye identical, are the mangrove swamps of tropical Queens- land. Here, however, we knew that there was no wild creature fiercer than the native ‘‘cat,”’ little more formidable than our English weasel. The animals most conspicuous out on the burn- ing plains behind the mangroves were the kan- garoos and wallabies, grotesque objects which, bounding out of reach of gun or rifle, look as if, embalmed in the Australian bush, they are survivals from some antique period before the dawn of history. The wooded tracts of tropical Queensland, as far north as Albany Pass and 32 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE Whitsunday Passage, are very beautiful, and the same may be said of the vegetation of New South Wales in the foothills of the Blue Mountains. Yet Australian scenes inevitably breathe a sadness that cannot be a figment of imagination, since it appeals to all except those who have made happy homes in the bush and who affectionately regard it as the most in- spiring forest landscape in all the world. The visitor, on the other hand, who has no such ties of sentiment to guide his judgment, finds horrible sameness in the miles of gums and wattles, with little or no undergrowth beneath ; and indeed wherever the eucalyptus has been given a new home in India, it has irretrievably ruined the native scenery. No one will blame Australians for their patriotism any more than he would those loyal Dutchmen who would vote the sand-dunes of Holland more impressive scenery than the Trossachs. Yet if the wild Australian bush has its chief attraction for Australians, the splendour of the Botanic Gardens in the cities shows that.the native flora affords material that Adam’s art can weave into fairy scenes unfor- gettable after twenty years. Not even the famous gardens at Buitenzoorg, in Java, or the better-known Cinnamon Gardens of Colombo, rich in spreading fig-tree and feathery bamboo, are more lovely than the Botanic Gardens of Australia. THE WILDERNESS 33 All through the heat of the day silence is the most memorable quality of the wilderness, jungle, or desert, for only morning and even- ing, or in the time of darkness, do the beasts and birds make themselves heard. When the sun burns overhead in the pitiless sky, all Nature is silent, too exhausted to move. In early morning, it is true, the jungle is alive with bird-voices, and as darkness falls swiftly on the scene, with none of the lure of our northern twilight, jackals bark plaintively in the foothills, and a sudden scream of pain stabs the gloom as some tiger or leopard comes by its own. The jungle is less perilous than some people imagine. Beasts of prey lurk in it, no doubt, but, so he be well gaitered against sudden snakes, the European may walk there as safe as in an English wood. People at home find it hard to realise the lack of adventure. Those who write of their experiences are compelled, if they would hold the reader’s interest, to choose the days on which something happened. The other days, with nothing to distinguish one from another, are left out of the reckoning and are as if they had not been. It is as if we were to recall only the battles in a country’s past and ignore the interludes of peace. Darkness is another feature of the forest which must be known to be appreciated. Even c 34 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE the heart of a wood at home is cool and shady on the hottest, brightest day of summer, but the giant trees of the tropical jungle, many of them two or three hundred feet in height, so effectually shut out the light of day that the effect is, as already remarked, suggestive of the light of sea-caves, green and ghostly ; and perhaps it is this dim, religious light, recalling old cathedrals, that has invested the forest with its uncanny associations. It is silent, solemn, wide and cold, ever reminding us of those submerged coal forests of ancient Britain, in the gloomy recesses of which primeval crocodiles and other vanished reptiles dozed beneath the spreading foliage of club- mosses. Of such impressive age are its greatest trees that the passing of nations leaves them unmoved. Unhappily, this restful effect of permanence belongs only to the forest primeval where the wasteful hand of man has not yet swung the axe and laid the monarchs low. The majesty of these tree giants, as I remember it at Wawona and elsewhere in California, beggars description. The great sequoias stand around silent and contemptuous. They were drinking in the sunshine five thou- sand years ago, and the monstrous dinotherium may have ended its days in their shadow, tong before the coming of man. What, compared with the lifetime of such timber, are the few THE WILDERNESS 35 years that we call history? What other vitality do we know, animal or vegetable, equal to theirs, seeing that they live even after coaches are driven through their trunks? The outpost sentinels of the Californian forest are mere shrubs, a hundred feet or so in stature—balsam, cedar, fir, and pine—but some of the veterans measure a hundred feet round their base and tower nearer three hundred feet than two into the clear atmosphere of that beautiful region. Even here the visitor is impressed with the monotony inseparable from pine forests, which are green all the year and irresponsive to the changing seasons. The balm of their resin may be wholesome, yet is less agreeable than the mingled bouquet of English woods. Their groves are not made happy with the song of little birds. Yet they are a grand and exalting sight, these noblest trees on earth, and it is well that the American Government has stationed patrols of cavalry to see that no injury is done them. Thus, a national posses- sion, may they stand for all time against the greed of the builder! The wilderness, as figured in these pages, embraces all the wild places, from the dried-up veldt under the Southern Cross to the eternal snows of the Himalaya, and another aspect of it is the desert, the Garden of Allah, which, according to a tradition of the Bedawin, Allah 36 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE made out of the rubbish left over at the Creation, planted it with prickly pear and aloes, peopled it with vipers and such-like vermin, and then laughed at the horror of its ugliness. This is a dreadful legend, yet it has in it an element of truth. There are, no doubt, books in which you may read of the beauty of the desert, since beauty is, after all, a matter of taste, and those whose acquaintance with the merciless sand comes from picture galleries may find it beautiful, even as comfortable lands- men, watching a stormy sea from the safety of the cliffs, find it entertaining. But ask the Arabs or the seamen. They will tell another story. On canvas, there may be splendour in the magic of a blood-red dawn, long before which the Arab has folded his tent in the moonlight and stolen away on his trek. There is wonder in the mirage, with its false imagery of trees and caravans that have no being where they seem. Yet this loveliness of the desert is Dead Sea Fruit to its own folk. To the veiled Tuaregs of the Sahara, to the dignified nomads beyond the Jordan, the dawn means another day of merciless heat, the mirage is an illusion that drives thirsty men to the verge of insanity, the sandstorm is a torture to any creature less resisting than a camel. The superstitious children of the desert look on it fearfully as the abode of evil jinns that love THE WILDERNESS 37 to torture weak mortals. With some little difference of local colour, there is a dreadful sameness about the ‘‘bad lands”’ all the world over. Here is the Great Thirst : in the Plateau of Gobi, in the Sahara, in the burning sands of Arizona, or the ‘Never Never” of Australia, everywhere the cloudless, brazen skies, the pitiless sun, the parched earth. The Gardener has planted this waste with spiteful vegetation, spinifex and algarobo scrub, wait-a-bit thorn, saltbush, cactus, and aloes. Ghoulish vultures wheel in the blue on the look-out for some fallen camel, and lazy sand-vipers bask in the sun, scarcely distinguishable from the earth they lie on. The desert may be beautiful in pictures or in poetry, but the reality of it is horrible, and its beauty is the beauty of death. Each type of scenery has its characteristic creatures, and the influence of the soil, climate and vegetation on their form and character is part of the interesting and much-misunderstood subject of environment, any discussion of which is outside the scope of these pages. What we can at any rate appreciate is the association of jungle, desert, plain and mountain each with its Own appropriate group of wild animals. We should not, for instance, expect to find the majority of monkeys far from the forest. We should not look for a grazing animal like the bison in the desert, nor should we seek alpine 38 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE animals like the sheep and goats in the plains. Every part of the wilderness has its appointed tenants, though some overlapping inevitably arises out of temporary changes of home on the part of migrants. Thus, though nothing seems to attract the wild sheep down to the plains, we find all manner of lowland game, like the bison and the elephant, climbing thousands of feet into the hills in search of cooler weather, fresh pastures and a respite from biting insects, which, if not wholly unknown, are at least less aggressive at the higher levels. The tiger is also encountered at an altitude of six or seven thousand feet, though with what object it performs such journeys is not apparent. The manner in which many of these creatures have developed certain features, among which various forms of foot are conspicuous, is also of the greatest interest. Thus we find the camel and giraffe with just the type of spreading foot suited to rapid and sure movement over the stony soil of the desert, and the caribou trusting to its splay feet to bear it at top speed over the snow and ice, so that it can outdistance even Indians on their snow-shoes without fear of crashing through the frozen crust in the manner so often fatal to the moose of the same region. Speaking generally, and with the aforemen- tioned allowance for wanderings, we expect to find types like the tiger, leopard, deer, bison, THE WILDERNESS 39 bear and elephant in the forest; the lion and rhinoceros, with antelopes and other horned game, in the open grass plains; the giraffe, with antelopes and gazelles, in the desert ; and the wild sheep and goats, with bears, above the timber on the mountain-sides. The distinction in environment between the lion and tiger is sufficiently illustrated by their respective haunts in Asia. The Asiatic lion is confined to Persia, Mesopotamia and a single forest in Kathiawar. The lions of Gir (Kathiawar) are commonly spoken of as the last surviving Indian members of the species, a statement which implies that lions were at one time common elsewhere in that peninsula. This, however, far from being assured, is exceedingly improbable, for the steaming jungles of the East are far more suited to the tiger. The lion, on the other hand, prefers the moderately dry regions of which it finds such choice in Africa, though it is not partial to the arid desert tracts of that con- tinent in which the giraffe finds sanctuary from its most dreaded natural enemy. Everywhere we shall find the wild creatures perfectly adapted to their surroundings; not one single mistake in Nature’s menagerie. The abnormal extremes of flood or drought may occasion temporary suffering, but these are met, where possible, by migration to kinder conditions. The kangaroo is at home on the 40 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE open plains. Were it driven into forest land, it would break its neck against low branches. The climbing powers of the squirrels and monkeys would be wasted in the plains, so we find them only in the jungle. The keen sight of the vulture is baffled by dense foliage, and the bird soars over open country suited to its strongest sense. The elephant’s trunk and the long neck and tongue of the giraffe are clearly adapted to stripping branches of their leaves. Whether these striking types were so created from the beginning, seeking the kind of environ- ment in which they were best qualified to find their food, or whether the elephant developed its trunk, and the giraffe stretched its neck, as circumstances demanded, is a matter of opinion. Each view has its supporters confident of their own case. The wisest man is he who is least sure. THE CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS II THE CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS Ir all Englishmen could spend their lives at home, even supposing that the prospect at- tracted them, they would have no reason to complain that their own country provided them with too little opportunity for either sport or nature-study, since, thanks in great measure to wise laws and also to the exclusion from great private estates of what our American friends pleasantly call ‘‘ game-hogs,” the shoot- ing and fishing in these islands, if in some respects a little artificial, are equal to those of any other country in Europe and superior to the sport of most. Few animal stories are more interesting than those of the fox, the otter, or the red deer; few birds are more attractive to the naturalist and sportsman than the red grouse; few fishes are more exciting to the angler, or more puzzling to the student, than the salmon. No continental country affords finer deer-stalking or salmon-fishing than Scotland, and in none, certainly, is the sport of fox-hunting better understood or more 43 44 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE enthusiastically enjoyed than in England. In their early boyhood, therefore, and also in the autumn of life, after long years of work given, it may be, to the service of their country under other skies, Englishmen with a taste for these country pleasures are singularly blest. In middle life, however, a large number must, at one time or another, go abroad, and the burden of exile is considerably lightened by knowing something of the wilderness and its animal life. Nor, in these days of rail and steamer, is it a very far cry from the elms and oaks of English spinneys to the deodars of the Himalaya, the teak forests of Burma, the cold and silent back- woods of Canada, or the steaming jungle of Central Africa. «Jt takes but a couple of weeks of turbine and Iécomotive to transport us from quiet English“fields to the rolling prairie, the limitless veldt, the bleak steppes, or the in- exorable desert. Arrived at those scenes, which we have known hitherto only in our boyhood’s books of adventure, we shall find the animals worthy of their setting. In place of the badger and weasel, we are confronted with the ponder- ous elephant and rhinoceros, the savage lion and tiger, the broad-antlered moose and grace- ful antelopes, heavy and treacherous wild cattle ; in fact, with all manner of beasts, birds, and reptiles, great and small, fierce or timorous, harmless or venomous. CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 45 An attempt is made in the present chapter to give some account of the habits and appear- ance of some of the most interesting, preference being given to those which the sportsman is most likely to encounter, either accidentally or of set purpose, in the wilds of India, Africa, Canada and other regions to which Englishmen commonly emigrate. This exile to foreign parts is usually looked upon as the penalty of the younger sons ; yet those who have travelled far and wide, shooting or fishing, or merely keeping their eyes and ears open to gather what impressions they may, find themselves pitying not so much the younger sons com- pelled to see the world as the eldest son privileged to stay at home. The first chapter of this book endeavoured to give some sort of picture of the wild places, no easy task to one whose pen fails when called upon to reproduce the wonders he has seen. We have now to consider the creatures which inhabit these solitudes, and we must, before all, try to keep a sense of proportion, for when we lose that we lose also all hold on the realities of life. Goldsmith, the poet, once dared to twit the great Dr. Johnson by saying that, if he had tried to write a dialogue between little fishes, he would have made them talk like whales. In a book that finds some- thing to say of both, every attempt has been 46 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE made not to let the rats talk like the elephants, but to keep each in its right place is not as easy as perhaps it looks. Another difficulty is to show the animals in their wild surround- ings, and not as they are in the Zoological Gardens or Natural History Museum. I can assure the reader, from experience, that an old moose suddenly raising its immense and hideous face from the lily-pads, as a canoe shoots silently round the bend of a river and almost to its feet, looks not less than twenty feet high, as it dashes off into the forest with a crash like that of an avalanche. I can say this, for I have sat in that canoe. It is also important to guard against deceptive impressions formed under unusual conditions. There are, as a case in point, Indian birds gifted with voices which, though not perhaps equal to the night- ingale’s best, are by no means unpleasant when heard in an aviary, for the listener can go away when he has had enough. It is a very different matter for Anglo-Indians com- pelled to listen to these noisy fowl day after day as they lie sweltering in their hammocks, goaded by the heat and irritation of exile in the East; and it is hardly surprising that they should have dubbed one of the most familiar of these unconscious offenders the ‘‘ brain-fever bird.” CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 47 1 INDIA Even were it not supremely interesting for the size, variety and abundance of its big game, India would surely be entitled to the first place in any English account of the creatures of the jungle, since it is to India that the vast majority of Englishmen turn for a career—military, civil, or mercantile—after finishing their education at home. Thanks partly to the religious objection entertained by many of the natives for taking life in any form, and partly to wise game laws enforced of recent years by the British rulers of the country, the wild animals have survived in India as in no other region so densely populated. The extent to which Indian wild animals have survived in the midst of a civilisation thousands of years old is really remarkable, though it is a fact with which we have grown so familiar that we do not always appreciate its significance in the relations between wild creatures and the natives, looking on such episodes as no more extraordinary than if they happened in newly developed districts of British East Africa, which, down to a few years ago, were unreclaimed wilderness. The following is a case in point. Early in the present year (1912) a full-grown panther, prowling on a much-used line in Berar, 48 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE got caught in the cow-catcher of a passenger train. The driver stopped the locomotive, but the brute would not, or could not, descend from its awkward position. One of the pas- sengers then climbed over and emptied five chambers of a revolver into the panther, which, however, merely snarled with rage, but still did not leave the train. Then someone fetched an iron bar, which was likewise ineffectual. There was nothing for it but to proceed, and when the train had gone a short distance the panther got clear. It was tracked and shot next day, and it was found to have all five revolver bullets in it and to have lost one of his paws. This shows remarkable vitality, but what is still more singular is the fact of the animal having stayed on the line to be caught up in this fashion. Was it a case of fearless- ness or panic ? Those with a liking for natural history or sport, or, better still, for both, could hardly have their lines cast in more pleasant places. The opportunities of exciting adventure with dangerous game, or the milder pleasure of scraping acquaintance with the most attrac- tive bird population to be found anywhere in the world, more than compensate for the drawbacks of exile in a trying climate, and I never yet heard a sportsman grumble of the years he spent in India. If he grumbled, CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 49 it was after returning home, coming back to a land that had forgotten him and that offered the best of its sport only to those with deep purses. Interesting as are the smaller children of the jungle to the naturalist, very little is said of them in these pages, and there is only incidental mention of Indian birds, which in- clude the grotesque hornbills, the tuneful sun- birds, the gorgeous peacock, dancing adjutant, and hideous vulture. Indian birds are, thanks to the native practice of leaving them in peace, singularly fearless and may therefore be studied more easily than the feathered folk of some other countries in which, alas! man has been the enemy and not the friend, and those who want a really interesting handbook by way of introduction cannot do better than procure a copy of Mr. Douglas Dewar’s F¥ungle Folk, .in which the author gives a most amusing account of his Indian friends. It is as enjoy- able a book on birds as any I remember reading. We are here concerned rather with the elephant and tiger, with rhinoceros and buffalo in the long grass of the lowlands, with the cunning ‘‘bison,”’ trusting sambur, and fighting wild boar that live in the cool forest glades, with the graceful blackbuck that scour the plains, with the black and brown bears of the foothills, and with the magnificent Hima- layan wild sheep and goats, whose branching D 50 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE horns sportsmen seek in the eternal snows of the mountain-tops and value above all other trophies of the chase, if only because so much more time and toil have gone to their winning. It cannot be said that sport in India is as good as it was in the old days. Wild animals are scarcer, and wild tourists are more plentiful. Yet good sport is still to be had for those who will take the trouble to look for it, and sports- manship is better and cleaner in India than anywhere else out of England. The pot-hunt- ing that goes on in Africa, in spite of the vigilance of game-wardens, would be an impossibility in a densely populated, well- governed land like India, where, to give only one reason for the difference, there are no ivory-hunters, native or European. Of Ameri- can sport I say nothing. Americans like my friend Mr. Hornaday, superintendent of the Bronx Animal Park, have said enough and to spare, and the scarcity of wild animals in the United States speaks for itself. Compare the condition of big game in India with that of the United States which, with, roughly, twice the area, have not one third of the population. Yet, save in a few outlying districts and Government Reservations, the land is all but denuded of its wild animals. With India we may bracket the neighbouring countries of Ladak and Tibet, as well as the island of CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 51 Ceylon, which, while possessing many large animals in common with the mainland, has no tiger, no rhinoceros and no brown bear. The immense numbers of wild animals in India survive even the slaughter encouraged by Government for the purpose of saving human life in the jungle. Even with such precautions, the death-rate of natives killed by wild animals is terrible, and in rgto alone no fewer than 2400 are officially recorded as having perished in this way. People in India declare that many of these so-called deaths from wild beasts are the work of poisoners, but we must remember the great difficulty of getting reliable evidence, even on oath, in communities that do not set a very high value on truth; and wild beasts may occasionally furnish a convenient explanation of tragedies wrapped in mystery. In the same year, it may be mentioned, the death-roll among wild beasts in the official records included 1421 tigers, 5029 leopards, 2292 bears, and over 90,000 deadly snakes. With an annual slaughter on such a scale, it seems surpris- ing that there should be any wild animals left in India at all. THE INDIAN ELEPHANT The elephant is the greatest of Indian animals. Clever people, who like a little Latin with their natural history, call it maxz- 52 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE mus (i.e. biggest), which is interesting, but wrong, for the African elephant, which, as will presently be seen, is different from its Indian cousin in many other respects, is also much the larger and heavier of the two. Still, the clever people say maxzmus, and there’s an end of it. Yet even the Indian elephant is no pigmy, for specimens have been known to measure eleven feet at the shoulder. In case you should ever want to know the height of a tame elephant when there is no ladder handy, it is useful to remember that twice the circum- ference of the forefoot gives the animal’s height within an inch or two. I have tested this more than once, and it is at once simpler and more accurate than the American formula for reckon- ing the weight of the big fish called tarpon with a tape measure. I mention this only for the sake of comparison. The formula itself is a nightmare. The forefoot of the elephant has five nails, and the hindfoot only four. The most conspicuous possessions of the elephant are its trunk and its tusks. The only difference is that, whereas every elephant has a trunk, many, both male and female, are with- out tusks, and the tusks of the female are, if present at all, generally short and insignificant- looking. The elephant’s trunk is, without a doubt, the most wonderful limb, or organ, in all nature, a kind of nose and arm in one. CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 53 That of the Indian elephant has a sort of finger at the tip, and there are two of these “fingers” in the trunk of the African kind. With the help of the finger, the Indian elephant is able to pick up all but the smallest articles off the ground, and those still smaller, such as grains of maize, are simply sucked into the trunk. So that the trunk is not merely a nose and an arm, but alsoa natural vacuum-cleaner, which takes trifles off the ground much as the cleaner going over a dusty drugget. Nature turns out curious noses, particularly in the birds, which, so to speak, have their nose and mouth in one, as well as in some of the fishes, which also combine the two, but I doubt whether there is such another combination tool as the elephant’s trunk. It even serves as a powerful weapon now and then, for, though they do not commonly put this sensitive organ to such violent uses, elephants have been known, as will be shown in an anecdote on a later page, to seize men in their trunk and to fling them to the ground. At the same time, some of the artists who flourished in the simple days when cameras had not yet recorded the facts used to allow their imagination to run away with them, and represented infuriated elephants flinging hapless men about like so many golf balls. That is what elephants do only in books. Indeed, the trunk is usually 54 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE spared unnecessary strain, and the Govern- ment elephants in the Burmese teak forests, rolling and stacking logs with infinite patience and wonderful judgment, use the trunk, as a rule, only in steadying each log on their tusks. Why, indeed, should the elephant hurt his trunk when it is so easy to gore or trample his little enemy, man? That great hunter, F. C. Selous, was once knocked off his frightened horse by a wounded elephant, which then stood over him, where he lay helpless, and drove its tusks into the earth close to his body, one of the most extra- ordinary escapes on record. ‘‘Charlie,” a tame elephant at the Crystal Palace some years ago, was teased by a man with a spear and just trod the man to death and went quietly back to his quarters. For this ‘‘ Charlie’ was executed, which may have been the proper penalty for taking the law into his own feet, but which seemed hard lines, all the same. One would not have thought a mere spear could do much against an elephant’s hide. Elephants have been executed in India also for this offence, and I remember hearing of a case at Mhow. The culprit was a hundred years old, and several rajahs wished to ransom him, but he had killed many natives, so the authorities would not hear of reprieve. In hot weather, or when persecuted by flies, elephants stand CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS $55 in water and use their trunk to squirt it over their backs. I have watched this performance on hot evenings with feelings of envy, for the flies troubled me also, and such a shower bath must have been very refreshing. The tusks of the elephant are true teeth in the upper jaw. It should be remembered that they are quite distinct from the horn of the rhinoceros, or even from the tushes of the wild boar. The baby elephant has ‘‘milk-tusks ” just as we ourselves have ‘‘ first” teeth. How long the tusks go on growing, no one seems to know for certain, though the theory in India is that they do so all through the animal’s life. As an elephant may live considerably more than a century, this kind of statement must be taken on trust, unless, of course, the yearly measurements of the tusks were handed on from father to son, which has not hitherto been done, but it seems inconceivable that this con- tinuous growth should be the case, as in even middle-aged Indian elephants tusks have been recorded measuring nearly 10 feet and weigh- ing over 100 lbs. Such figures, however, were always unusual, and to-day they would be very rare. Even in Africa, where single tusks have been taken weighing more than 150 lbs., most of the best have long since been made into billiard balls and brush handles. The tusks of the cow elephant in India are small. There 56 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE are also many males without tusks at all, and in Ceylon, indeed, tuskers, though not un- common formerly, are nowadays the exception. The appearance of the Indian elephant is familiar to most of us. In colour, the skin is black and nearly hairless, though there are bristles on the tail. The tail itself is not decorative, and sometimes it is much dis- figured. One historic ‘‘rogue”’ elephant, shot some years ago in the Bangalore Ghats, was minus half of its tail, and the natives say that this is done in fighting other elephants. They must therefore bite their antagonist’s tail off, though they must surely have some difficulty in getting hold of such a wretched little object. ‘ In Burmah there are so-called ‘‘ white” ele- phants. These are not in reality white at all, but a dirty flesh colour. Still, they have been called white for so many years that tourists in the Far East are bitterly disappointed not to find them as white as Polar bears. I sug- gested above that an ordinary spear should make very little impression on the elephant’s hide, but I ought to have remembered the misery these huge creatures endure from biting flies, to escape from which they not only stand for hours up to their eyes in muddy water, with only the tip of the trunk above the surface, but also clamber far up into the hills, being better climbers than one would think possible of such CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 57 monsters. It must not be supposed that escape from their insect tormentors is the only purpose which prompts elephants to migrate to the mountains, for they also climb to great heights in search of suitable food when sup- plies fail them at the lower levels, but they certainly make shorter journeys above the plains when the flies are most troublesome. When, choosing the other alternative, they seek a water cure, they are sometimes unable to find depth enough to submerge animals of their height, and at such times they squirt the water out of their trunks, as mentioned above, and plaster themselves over with mud. This makes them look disgusting objects, but it certainly gives them peace from the tsetse and other venomous flies on the look out to suck their blood, and I am not sure that those who fish on Canadian rivers in summer, and suffer torments from the blackflies and midges, might not follow the elephant’s example and plaster a little mud on their face and hands. Such an experiment might be worth trying, at any rate when the ‘‘dope’” has given out. With its immense body, long and tapering trunk, curling tusks and straight, massive legs, the elephant is an extraordinary creature, different in size and shape from any other in 1 A chemical preparation sold for bathing the face and hands and keeping biting flies at a distance. 58 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE existence, though a pigmy compared with some of the mammoths that once roamed the frozen steppes of Siberia. I have seen the remains of one of these in the Natural History Museum at St. Petersburg. It could not, in life, have been a large specimen, but, with the hairy skin, it must have been an uncouth object and much more terrifying in appearance than even the elephants of our day. The senses of the elephant are much as those of other wild animals. It relies chiefly on its scent, and the trunk tells it of the approach of the enemy more often than either its wicked little short-sighted eyes or even the huge ears, which, in the African kind, are simply enor- mous, but which are also, in many elephants, quite incapable of hearing. It is curious, indeed, that the largest ears in all creation should belong to an animal that is almost deaf, but it is a fact. The sense of smell, on the other hand, is wonderful, and the sportsman stalking a wild elephant has to exercise the greatest caution, as, if the wind should sud- denly shift, blowing from him to the animal, it will at once smell him and either bolt away into the jungle or charge outright. The cow elephant is devoted to her young one, and always ready to put herself between it and danger. It must be confessed, on the other hand, that my lord, the elephant, puts the CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 59 safety of his own skin before every other con- sideration. When a herd gallops out of danger, the bulls manfully lead the way, leav- ing the rest of the family to do as best they can. Yet even in this sauve guz peut the females never desert their calves. In fairness to the males, we should perhaps admit that they may realise, either from experience or by hearsay (who knows, after all, what tales they may tell each other ?), that they, and not their wives or children, are the chief object of the sportsman, though ivory-hunters in Africa make little or no difference between them, shooting all and sundry with marketable tusks. The daily life of a herd of elephants varies according to the season of the year. In the rains—I speak, of course, of the Indian ele- phant—they climb into the hills, glad to get out of the valleys, which are then alive with flies. They are always on the move, be the weather wet or dry, for it will easily be realised that creatures of such immense size and such hearty appetite soon exhaust the food supply, and in order to get sufficient juicy grasses, tender stems of young bamboo, and wild plan- tains to stay their hunger, they must travel far, crashing their way through the jungle, ripping off great strips of bark with their tusks, digging up trees by the roots, trampling down shrubs, spreading havoc and ruin in the 60 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE ryot’s crops and gardens, spoiling whole planta- tions of tea and coffee, pulverising the native huts, and doing terrific damage, much of it in aimless frolic. In the heat of the day they rest beneath some clump of banyan trees or in other shade, ears flapping, bodies swaying, first one foot and then the other being lifted off the ground. At the hottest time of the year they seek shelter in some forest of ever- greens, and when asleep they do not, as some artists still prefer to picture them, lean against the trunks of trees, but lie on their sides like men and horses and many other tired animals, both wild and tame. We have got so accus- tomed to these elephants leaning against trees that I almost hesitate to destroy belief in the habit, but it is best to have the truth, even though it be less picturesque than fiction. For all its great size and colossal strength, the Indian elephant has an abject fear of man, and, considering what a puny figure of a man the average mahout, or driver, is, this docile submission says a good deal for the thorough- ness with which the natives of India have tamed these giants. Of this more will be said in a later chapter. The readiness with which wild elephants caught in keddahs are, with the help of tame ones, reduced to obedience is extraordinary. It is ludicrous to watch one of these tremendous brutes taking its punishment CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 61 meekly from some little undersized native whom, if it but knew its strength, it could crush as we crush a wasp. That is the ele- phant subdued by man. Yet a wounded wild elephant at close quarters is a terrible adver- sary, and a solitary ‘‘rogue” (or gunda) will terrorise a whole district for weeks together, so that the woodmen are afraid to go far into the jungle and the villagers are held up as if undergoing a siege. Not every lonely ele- phant, it should be remembered, is a ‘‘rogue,”’ for the tuskless males (or makuas) are at times so bullied by their more fortunate brothers with tusks that they prefer, though not necessarily vicious, to separate themselves from the herd and lead a solitary existence. How and why an elephant turns ‘‘ rogue ”’ is an interesting question that is always being argued, but rarely answered in a satisfactory manner. Clearly his case is not on all fours with that of the man-eating tiger, which we shall discuss later. Nor must permanent roguery be confused with the passing madness known in India as must, under the influence of which one of these animals will sometimes run amok, as it is called, in the bazaars, killing all who do not get out of its way. There is an even worse type of elephant than the wild ‘‘rogue,’”’ and that is a once tame elephant that, impatient of its bondage, has escaped back to the jungle. Such 62 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE an elephant at large is a dreadful fellow, for, like the house cat that takes to poaching in the woods at home, it is far more cunning than its wild cousins and is moreover indifferent to man, since in this case familiarity seems to have bred contempt. The only cure for such is a rifle bullet through the brain. As to the making of ‘‘rogue”’ elephants, no one knows exactly how this comes about, though many causes have been suggested. My own idea, which I offer only for what it may be worth, is that bad shooting may have had something to do with it. This theory may, at first sight, look rather far-fetched, but let me explain my meaning. We know, from accounts furnished by former travellers on the White Nile and other inland waters, both river and lake, of Central Africa, that the hippopotamus was in those days a more peaceful, fearless and frolic- some creature than it is nowadays, when trippers have invaded those regions and have taken to the curious pastime of pumping lead into every hippopotamus that comes to the surface to breathe within range of their guns. This is a disgraceful practice and one that should be severely dealt with. Unfortunately, these holiday ‘‘sportsmen ” regard the wilder- ness as their own, and, not satisfied with desecrating its sanctuary with their uncouth presence, they must needs slaughter every CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 63 creature that comes within their reach. What is the result? Simply, as might be expected, that the once inoffensive hippopotamus, smart- ing from its wounds (since these miserable marksmen rarely kill outright), has lost its temper, which is hardly surprising. Many of the aggressive acts on the part of the hippopotamus arise, in Sir Henry Seton- Karr’s opinion, from the mother’s anxiety to protect her calf. The wooded islands above the Victoria Falls have long served as a hippo- nursery, and the mothers apparently resent the presence of canoes. My reason for supposing that some such grievance may have had its share in the manu- facture of ‘‘rogues” is that, with very rare exceptions, elephants reveal, when cut up, the wounds and even bullets of former encounters withman. This is why I regard bad marksman- ship as a possible factor in having soured their tempers and driven them to brood over their troubles in a solitude that only makes them more morose and anxious to avenge themselves on those that persecute them. Now, there is an objection to this suggestion of mine which, in fairness, I must not overlook. The truth is that, save in such jungles as those of Mysore and Travancore, the native rulers of which give occasional permission to distinguished guests to shoot an elephant, these animals 64 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE have not been shot in India for many years. Yet, as we know that elephants live for a hundred years or more, and as ‘‘rogues”’ are rarely in their first youth when shot, this objection does not seem insuperable. Some doubt exists on the question of whether the ‘‘rogue”’ elephant is bodily expelled from the herd in the first instance, and the episode has never been actually witnessed, or has, at any rate, not been described by anyone who pre- tends to have seen it. It is, however, well known that ‘‘rogues” often try to rejoin the polite society of their kind, but that they are not readmitted to the community, being regarded by their fellows as outcasts for life. General Hutchinson’s view of the ‘‘rogue” is that he has become solitary and morose because no longer attractive to the females, and is, so to speak, cut out by the younger generation. Of the mind of the elephant we know, as in the case of other animals, less than we do of its body. There is, in fact, considerable difference of opinion as to whether it should be regarded as clever or stupid. Some even of those who know it in its own home look with grave doubt on the many stories told of its marvellous intelligence as gross exaggera- tion. They point, in support of their less flattering opinion, to the small size of its brain and to the readiness with which it allows itself CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 65 to be caught in keddahs or pitfalls. Yet even men occasionally fall into the latter, and I imagine that, in elephants as in ourselves, there are differences and that one may be more intelligent than its fellows. Two of the most striking proofs of the cleverness of some elephants that I remember reading were com- municated to the Fze/d by Mr. C. W. A. Bruce, a Forest Officer in Burma. Mr. Bruce often watched one of them break off a branch and use it in its trunk to scratch some part of its back or sides otherwise out of reach. Still more remarkable was the behaviour of a run- away female that escaped, dragging her chain. No sooner did her attendant give chase than she promptly seized the loose end of the chain in her trunk, clearly with the twofold object of saving herself from tripping over it and of pre- venting the man from catching hold of it. It is impossible to attribute any less intelligent reason to her action, and, if this was not clever, I should like to know what is. I am much indebted to that distinguished sportsman, Sir William Lee-Warner, G.c.s.1., for the following interesting notes on sagacity and memory in elephants. After reading what he has to say, it is not easy to entertain any reasonable doubt of the cleverness which these animals sometimes display, and if, on other occasions, they seem to fall short of what we E 66 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE should have expected of them, it is always fair to remember that we may possibly misin- terpret their motives and overlook reasons for their conduct which, though not always ap- parent from our limited point of view, may appear perfectly sound to them. I give the evidence in his own words : **In the cold weather of 1870, I was camped out in the District of Nasik, in the Bombay Presidency. At that time, the military depart- ment maintained a number of elephants, some of which were employed on what may be called civil duties, such as the clearance of forests, the destruction of wild beasts, ceremonial occasions of a political character, and so forth. A certain contingent of elephants had, on the occasion of Lord Mayo’s visit to Ajmer, or some similar function, to be sent north. Three elephants, one from Ahmednagar, a second from Khandesh, and a third from Poona, were to meet near my place of encampment and to march in company to their appointed station. On the arrival of the Khandesh elephant, which had recently been employed in tiger- killing operations, it was at once noticed that something was seriously wrong. The animal was clearly ill at ease. Next morning when one mahout had mounted his elephant, and another was about to mount the second, the Khandesh elephant suddenly broke loose before being mounted, roughly pushed away his neighbour, and, taking the mahout in his CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 67 trunk, knocked the man’s head against the ground, after which he tossed the body from his forearm to his hind leg and stamped the life out of his victim. Meanwhile his own mahout promptly mounted the elephant whose mahout had been killed and, with the third elephant and mahout, hurried away a distance of a few hundred yards and then halted to see what would happen. What did happen, to the surprise of everyone, was that the riderless elephant came up as quietly and meekly as possible, and when his own mahout spoke to him from the neck of the animal he was riding, he readily obeyed the customary words of com- mand. So he descended, and his own elephant assisted him to mount, as usual, showing that the fit of rage was over. Such extraordinary conduct on this occasion was subsequently explained by the records of the dead mahout’s service. He had taken this Khandesh elephant to the Abyssinian War, in 1867, and from that campaign the poor brute returned in a terrible condition and covered with sores. The mahout, on getting back to India, was given leave and was subsequently given charge of another elephant at a distant station, never again meeting with the animal he had ill-treated until this affair in 1870. He had forgotten the elephant, no doubt, but the elephant had neither forgotten the discomforts of the Abys- sinian service nor forgiven the author of them. ‘¢ Another remarkable instance of the sagacity of elephants came under my notice in Mysore in 1905, when Lord Elgin was going to 68 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE witness a Khedah, in which wild elephants are driven into a series of stockades. Sir Sheshadri Ayer, the Minister, was remarking on the comparative failure of the present Indian head of the Khedah establishment as con- trasted with the success formerly achieved in that position by G. P. Sanderson. It ap- peared that the Indian director, inspired by humanitarian motives, avoided the destruction of any elephant that was seen turning back or escaping from a stockade. Sanderson, on the other hand, used invariably to shoot all such, on the sound principle that dead men tell no tales. That his view was in all probability the correct one is sufficiently proved by an incident that was related to me on this occasion. A fair number of elephants had been driven right up to the outer stockade, and one or two had entered by the concealed gate. Suddenly a fine tusker advanced to the gateway and took up his position under the suspended gate, where he proceeded to resist the entrance of other elephants, beating them off for a con- siderable time and finally leading them in a wild rush that broke the line of beaters. Then someone present remembered that on a pre- vious occasion an elephant, apparently the same one, had escaped from the outer stockade, and it seemed reasonable to assume that the intelli- gent animal had remembered and used his experience so as to prevent others from falling into the same trap. ‘*A step further is reached when an elephant reasons not from experience, but from fore- CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 69 sight. I once saw an elephant in Canada engaged in intercepting the logs and trunks of trees that were floating down a river and stack- ing them on the bank. The precision with which the logs were laid, and the ingenuity with which, as the stack rose in elevation, logs were rolled up an incline made by the elephant for the purpose, were remarkable. But the feat that astounded me most was when the ele- phant, while dragging a tree out of the swift stream in his trunk, suddenly observed another log coming downstream so rapidly that it must inevitably have swung out of reach before he had time to deposit his burden on the bank. In an instant the animal pushed the descending log, with his foot out of the rapid current, slightly upstream, and so into the slack water under the bank; after which, quickly depositing the tree on land, he caught up the log with his free trunk before it could sweep past him. ‘*It seems, however, that there are times, par- ticularly when they have done wrong and are ashamed of themselves, when elephants lose their heads. A mahout, passing through Sangli in 1886, went into a cottage and set a child in his own place on the elephant’s neck. The elephant resented this pleasantry, killed the child, and made off. The villagers raised a hue-and-cry just as I happened to be riding through the place, and some police with fixed bayonets were hastily collected and marched with slow and regular step to where the animal stood. The elephant backed slowly until it reached the stump of a tree, where heel-chains 70 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE and other fetters had been prepared for it. It was then secured without offering the slightest opposition, and if it was minded to resist cap- ture it certainly neglected an obvious precau- tion which experience might, one would have thought, have suggested as the obvious means of escape.” Those who give the elephant less than its due credit for intelligence will, I think, be inclined to reconsider their verdict after reading these very interesting anecdotes, which illus- trate the memory, ingenuity, and remorse of which these mighty creatures are evidently capable. I have already mentioned the fact that, ordinarily speaking, there is no longer ele- phant shooting to be had in India. The only chance for the sportsman in that country is to be asked to shoot a ‘‘rogue”’ or an elephant in must. The only fatal shot that can be relied on to kill outright is through the brain. When shooting from the front, the rifle is aimed at the ridge, or bump, midway between the eyes ; but in shooting from either side it is necessary to know the exact position of the brain, which is very small in proportion to the size of the head. All manner of diagrams have in conse- quence been published with a view to assisting the novice in making the critical shot. What the novice invariably does, diagram or no CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 71 diagram, is to empty the contents of his rifle all over the elephant’s surface and to send it off screaming. There is not much time to lose, for if the wounded brute does not hurry out of range it will charge in the opposite direction, in which case the sportsman usually moves off the scene without further delibera- tion. A charging elephant comes on at a surprising pace, trunk curled high in the air, little eyes gleaming, great ears flapping, alto- gether a tremendous picture of rage and strength. The obstinate bravery of elephants fighting against odds is never more grandly or more pathetically illustrated than in their not infrequent encounters with railway trains. The fate of ‘‘Jumbo,” who met his death in this way at a time when his weight exceeded six tons, will long be remembered in England, where he had been made the hero of somewhat hysterical sentiment on the occasion of his sale to an American showman. Collisions of the sort between trains and elephants are not uncommon in India, and in the Malay Peninsula they were at one time of constant occurrence. On one occasion, the driver of a goods train, seeing a big tusker on the line ahead, first slowed down and then stopped his train altogether. Even this defer- ence to his majesty did not satisfy the elephant, which at once charged the engine, dashing at 72 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE it again and again with terrific force and doing considerable damage. Each time the driver made an attempt to continue the journey, the enraged elephant charged with new fury, and the man hesitated to go full speed ahead for fear of derailing his train. At length, though not until after his head had been severely bat- tered, the elephant tried other tactics and charged backwards. Asa passenger train was due to follow, the driver felt that no more time must be lost, so he let his engine go. One of the wheels went over the elephant’s leg, putting him out of action, and he was subsequently shot dead by the guard of the train that followed. Such is the Indian elephant. For all its occasional roguery, its fits of must, and of rage as blind and stupid as that just narrated, I always like to think of it as by far the most impressive of living animals, the type of a massive dignity that should command the re- spect of little folk like ourselves, even though we have tamed it and invented rifles with which to destroy it. This is why, quite apart from the possible, not to say probable, cruelty involved in the training, I dislike seeing circus elephants made to stand on their hind legs and beat drums. Such foolish tricks should be taught to animals of less dignity, and I would almost as soon have contemplated the late CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 73 Mr. Gladstone dancing a breakdown in the Monkey House at the Zoo. THE RHINOCEROS We know all manner of rhinoceroses best by the horn, or horns, on their snout. There are three different kinds of these animals in Asia and two in Africa, but as this chapter does not pretend to describe every animal, the so-called ‘‘ great” rhinoceros of Assam, Kooch Behar and Nepal may do duty for the Eastern species. It is a huge, blundering creature, standing about six feet high and carrying on its nose a single pointed horn a foot or more in length. The so-called ‘‘horn” of the rhinoceros is absolutely different from those of goats or cattle, being really a growth of hardened skin. It can, in fact, be removed without leaving more than a scar, which rapidly heals, and this actually happens to these animals in captivity, for they occasion- ally rub off their horns against the bars. Both sexes carry this formidable weapon, but, as a matter of fact, the Indian rhinoceros fights only with its teeth, the horn being used only in tearing up roots. So long as they are not molested, these animals are usually in- offensive, and when they have been known to charge without provocation, it has been a case 74 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE of nerves. They are short-sighted and hard of hearing, and when they suddenly get wind of a man they are apt to charge blindly, for fear of being surrounded. In parts of India, the high grass is both board and lodging to the rhinoceros, which lives in it and feeds on it, and must, therefore, be shot from elephant- back, as it is not possible for anyone on foot to get a shot. The rhinoceros of Sumatra is a smaller animal, with hairy ears. It is not particularly courageous, but is very destructive in the plantations. THE WILD BOAR This animal is the joy of Indian sportsmen, particularly of soldiers stationed in that land, who find pigsticking one of their favourite amusements. Nowhere else do boars show such fight. I have seen them pretty nasty when maddened by spear-thrusts in the cork- woods near Tangier, but an old Indian boar, which stands some thirty inches at the shoul- der, is the incarnation of pluck, tushes brist- ling, little red eyes flashing, charging times and again, even with spears broken in its body. Though considered a dainty by both tigers and leopards, and, doubtless aware of their fondness for his flesh, the boar thinks little of drinking at the same waterhole as THE BOAR THINKS LITTLE OF DRINKING AT THE SAME WATERHOLE CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 75 they, and these creatures must be hungry in- deed to molest him. I am indebted to a well-known sportsman for a remarkable illustration of the dread in which the wild boar is held by even the fiercest animals in the best of condition. There are people who disbelieve the accounts of how the pig will drink unconcernedly at a pool with tigers standing by, but the following ex- perience leaves no shadow of doubt of its superiority in courage to, at any rate, a panther :— _My informant was shooting in the Kinwet Reserve, Berars (N.W. of the Nizam’s Dominions), in the month of May, 1g06. On this particular occasion he was seated in a machan in a solitary tree overlooking the Doderi Nullah, a boulder-strewn watercourse. A buffalo calf had been tied up as bait for the notorious Gari tiger, an immense light- coloured and very cunning old tiger that had been known for more than ten years to the officers of Gordon’s Horse, but had never got caught in a beat. Even his pug-marks were well known, being distinguishable not alone by their great size, but also by the peculiarity of the near fore-paw being turned slightly inwards. This gentleman has no high opinion of the practice of shooting tigers at night from a 76 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE machan, but admits that, in the case of hardened man-eaters or cattle-slayers, it is the one and only method offering any reasonable prospect of success. The redoubtable skzkarz Dafadar Taman Sing, of Gordon’s Horse, had installed him at an early hour in his machan, and for two hours he had kept silent vigil. Nothing was moving in the vicinity of the unsuspecting boda until about seven in the evening. Then, just as the sun was going down under the horizon, a big, solitary old boar came into view a quarter of a mile away, feeding quietly as he moved from point to point, and little by little approaching the watercourse, which at that point would have been some two hundred yards wide. Finally the boar came within twenty yards on the leeward side of the calf. Then something quite unexpected happened. To the horror of the watcher overhead, the boar faced towards the calf and, with a series of defiant grunts, showed every sign of charg- ing across the intervening boulders. It looked as if a tragedy was about to be enacted, and my correspondent, supposing that the boar had scented the calf and mistaken it for an enemy, looked round in the direction of the bait. Then he saw the meaning of the boar’s hitherto puzzling behaviour. There lay a large panther, which had so far contrived to keep out of sight “| | | AND HISSED SAVAGELY AT THE BOAR.” CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 77 and which, having stalked to within a few feet of the calf, was only waiting for the darkness that would precede the rising. of the moon in order to make a meal of it. A battle between these warriors of the jungle seemed imminent, but the panther was not equal to it. It squirmed its way to the top of a boulder and hissed savagely at the boar, but that was all; and it was just turning to make off, in spite of the fact that the ground was of a nature to have given it the advantage, when a shot from the 8-bore in the machan rolled it over on the far side of the boulder. The boar apparently took in the situation at a glance and, after one triumphal snort, tripped contentedly away. A thunderstorm broke during the night, which gave the watcher the agreeable choice between remaining in his tree and taking his chance with the lightning, or descending to earth and chancing acollision with the Gari tiger. Next morning he visited, with proper caution, the spot at which he had last seen the panther, but it lay dead on the further side, and death had evidently been instantaneous. Its length, native measurement (i.e. liberally stretched), was g ft. 34 in. In any case, it was a large specimen, and as it was in excellent condition, such pusillanimous conduct, even in face of a boar, seems inexcusable. 78 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE Indeed, there are stories enough of the Indian boar’s pluck and vitality to fill a book by them- selves, though none perhaps more significant than one told in an old book of a boar and tiger being found dead side by side. As an illustration of the strength and vitality of these die-hards, the following story has struck me as remarkable. A sportsman came suddenly on an old boar in the jungle and took a snapshot, hitting it too far back. (It should be mentioned that it is etiquette in British India to shoot boars only in jungle-country where they cannot be ridden after.) The animal at once charged, and in such a desperate hurry that the man had no time to reload, but instinctively held his rifle, a heavy weapon, crosswise before him to take the shock of the charge. The boar took the narrow neck of the weapon, near the trigger, between its teeth and bit clean through it. Then it knocked the sportsman over and started ripping him with its tusks, but it was too badly hurt itself to do much damage, and soon went a little distance and sat down, breathing heavily, and evidently in a bad way. This encounter took place towards sunset quite near the sportsman’s bungalow, and to this he now managed to crawl without the boar show- ing further fight. Next morning he went in search of it, taking another rifle for safety’s sake, though fully expecting to find a dead CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 79 boar. What he found was a very lively boar, in the same spot where he had left it, that actually charged him again with great fury. This time, however, he finished it off. Few other animals could lie up severely wounded for a whole night and then charge, apparently as fresh as ever, next day. Colonel William- son tells me that he once had a lucky shot at a boar, which he could only see indistinctly in a clump of so-called wild arrowroot. On this occasion also the bullet struck it too far back to do mortal injury, and out it came straight for him. The Colonel took a hurried shot at close range, and then, catching his feet in some roots, fell on his back, expecting every moment that the boar would be on him and would score his body with some of those L-shaped gashes that the tusks always make. As he jumped up he found the animal lying dead at his feet, the shot having penetrated to the brain just over the left eye. Like many other really brave animals, the boar is no bully. Leave him alone, and he will give you the path. I recollect riding one moonlight night right up to an old boar, with his sow and his litter, and the pigs, which were digging up truffles or some other delicacy when I came suddenly upon them, just galloped back to the hills, the old gentle- man covering their retreat. An elephant, on 80 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE the other hand, would have shown the way. A wild boar strikes one as about the last creature on earth to make a pet of, but I remember hearing of a lady in India who brought up a small wild sow that became much attached to its owner. The adopted one even slept under her bed and did quite as well as a watch-dog, rushing at all intru- ders. It used also to go out with the dogs when the sahib went shooting, and was in- variably first on a dead bird. There was, indeed, only one slight drawback to the value of this otherwise admirable pointer, and that was that it always ate the bird before the sahib could get to it. [The plan on which this book is written precludes any detailed account of European wild animals, but a note may be of interest on the prevalence of the wild boar, which has been extinct in Britain since the days of Queen Elizabeth, in Belgium and France. As a matter of fact, this animal roams over most of Europe, though is not apparently found in either Holland or Scandinavia. In all rideable country in India it is etiquette to kill it only with the spear, shooting it merely in ravines or in jungle where the sport of pigsticking would be out of the question. At Howara, also, near Tangier, it has for many years been killed with the spear, and I remember a Spanish CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 81 nobleman with large estates in Spain assuring me some years ago that he fully intended pre- serving it for the same purpose on his property, though whether he ever carried out his inten- tion I have never heard. Belgium is overrun with wild boars, mostly from the Ardennes, in hard winter weather, and these audacious brutes even invade the villages round Verviers during the heavy snow- storms, seeking what they may devour. Indeed, on one occasion a farmer was charged by one in broad daylight in the streets of Jalhay ; and the boar is so ruinous to Belgian farmers that it may be shot at sight without licence or hindrance. Occasionally it gives good sport when hunted with hounds. I remember an occasion on which, not far from Bievre, a falconer, who was abroad at daybreak in search of a lost hawk, came on an immense boar in apineclearing. The boar having been located, the local pack was quickly turned out, and the boar gave them a first-rate run over the snow, through Fleurifoy and along the banks of the little river that runs past it. At length the boar got desperate and suddenly turned on the horse ridden by the Master, the Baron de Crawhez. The Baron, however, snatched his horse on one side and subsequently gave the boar the coup de grace, though not before several of his best hounds had been killed by F 82 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE the infuriated animal. On another occasion a drove of no fewer than thirteen boars was seen in the moonlight in the outskirts of Esneux, a village in the province of Liége. Shooting boars is not a very dangerous sport, because they do not, for all their pluck, charge unless wounded, and also because care is taken to post the guns in such safe spots that it would not much matter if they did. Still, accidents do occasionally happen, in spite of these precautions. One day the veteran Prince Regent Luitpold of Bavaria was shoot- ing hogs, and one of his guests missed a boar. The boar did not miss him, however, but laid him on his back and so ripped his legs that he was disabled for weeks at Schloss Rohrbrunn. The technical name for these animals in French venery is Jétes nozres (which suggests blackbeetles), and there is in that country a very dangerous practice of making pitfalls to catch them in. These traps, concealed by branches, are a constant source of danger to hunting-men. Count Joseph Lahens_ used to keep a pack of the famous Piqu’ Hardi Gascon Batards solely to hunt wild boars in the Landes and Gironde. These are long- eared, powerful hounds, standing twenty-four inches, and they hunt the boar with wonderful scent and with a courage that almost matches its own. | CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 83 HORNED GAME There is great variety of horned game in India, including the ponderous ‘‘ bison” and buffalo, the splendid goats and sheep in the mountains, with sambur in the forest and ante- lopes on the plains. Some of the mountain sheep must be endowed with enormous strength to endure life at such altitudes. Dr. Longstaff tells me that, in Tibet, he has seen burrhel up to eighteen thousand feet, and even higher, and the gradients that these creatures have to climb for their daily food are simply appalling. Of all the trophies, sportsmen most prize the spreading horns of Ovzs polz and Ovis ammon, or the spiral horns of the mark- hor, a wild goat found in the mountains of Kashmir and Ladak. Like the burrhel, these sheep inhabit tremendous heights above sea- level, and they gallop over the rough and broken ground at an amazing pace, never seeming to miss their footing even when hotly pursued. The first two sheep grow horns measuring seventy-five inches and fifty inches respectively, and the black and twisted horns of the markhor may exceed sixty inches. This animal is found at the highest limit of the pine forests, along the edge of which its flocks graze early and late, resting during the heat of the day. This also is the way of the so- 84 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE called ‘‘ ibex,” a beardless goat of the Nilgiris, and a ewe is always posted as sentinel while the rest of the herd feed or rest. The faithful ewe takes up a commanding position and never slumbers at her post, though how she is per- suaded not to feed or lie down with the rest is one of those mysteries of animal life that we are never likely to solve. Is it done under compulsion, with all manner of pains and penalties for carelessness, or is it a labour of love ? The high places of Asia have their wild ox as well; the famous yak, which inhabits Tibet at altitudes of fifteen thousand feet or more. Many herds, indeed, rarely descend below that level. It is found in the tame state as well as in the wild; butin Ladak, at any rate, there have been no wild yak since 1887. How, with such miserable fare as is provided by the starved grasses of the mountain-tops, the yak manages to grow so big and strong is a problem, yet there are few wild oxen finer than this massive brute of the mountains, standing nearly six feet high, with its long black horns and hair. The yak has been domesticated for centuries, and among the eccentricities of the pure-bred animal mention may be made of a distaste for corn, which it is never able to overcome. | It is less keen-sighted than most animals of the peaks, and, like the sheep and goats of the CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 85 same lofty region, it rarely looks for trouble from above, so that sportsmen often make a long and tiring stalk so as to get above the game and fire down on it. The herd is always on the move, inspired by a restlessness which there is no difficulty in understanding when we remember how scanty Nature’s larder must be at those frozen heights. The lowland cousins of the yak are the gaur (which Anglo-Indians call ‘‘bison’’) and the buffalo. The ‘‘bison”’ likewise clambers into the teak and bamboo forests in the hills, feed- ing up to a height of six thousand feet. Most people are familiar with the animal, at any rate in the Zoo: a powerful black ox, with a greasy- looking hide, small feet and slender white- stockinged legs, neat ‘*‘breedy”’ head, and powerful yellow horns tipped with black. The finest of these horns measure over forty inches across. The gaur, as, with all deference to sporting nicknames, I prefer to call it, stands fully six feet at the shoulder, and is perhaps the most massive of all the wild cattle, as a big bull, in good condition, will weigh not far short of a ton. It does not love its neighbour as itself, more particularly when the neighbour is a European, but is one of the first among the wild and timid jungle-folk to desert its old haunts when these are invaded by civilisation, and to seek solitudes still more remote in which 86 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE it can hide from the eyes (and bullets) of man. It has a remarkably keen sense of smell, and a solitary old bull will get wind of his pursuer at an almost incredible distance. If unwounded, he will take the opportunity of galloping off out of harm’s way, but, if hurt, he will lie in ambush with extraordinary cunning, and for this reason the gaur is one of the most danger- ous creatures to follow up in high grass, more than one sportsman having paid with his life for underrating the strength and tactics of the enemy. It even turns hunter, circling round the sportsmen as at times lions do, stalking him, in fact, and then charging with confusing sud- - denness from an unexpected quarter. It has also, now and then, been known to charge before a single shot is fired, but this is a risk to be feared rather by the silent, bare-footed native than by Europeans, whose substantial tread as they go through the crackling under- growth generally advertises their approach in time for the wild creatures to make tracks, as, indeed, most of them, given the chance, are only too willing to do. The Indian buffalo, which flourishes in Assam and some neigh- bouring countries, is a very different looking animal, greyer in colour and almost hairless, with a wider spread of horns. Unlike the gaur, it has no fancy for the jungle, but spends most of its life in the high grass of the plains CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 87 and is very fond of wallowing in swamps and waterholes, as its splay feet are of wonderful assistance when it wants to get quickly over soft ground. This furnishes a favourite subject for heated argument as to whether the animal gradually developed splay feet because it liked walking in treacherous places, or whether, on the other hand, it took to marshes because it realised that its feet were suited to such conditions. To some extent, no doubt, such discussions show intelligence, but the ques- tioners would show more if they did not always supply the answer according to their own fancy, and as positively as if the matter admitted of no further doubt. It is a pity to be drawn into taking up this cocksure attitude, and is far better to keep an open mind. Someone has remarked that dogmatism is puppyism grown up. Anyway, it is a vice best avoided early, or it soon grows on us. There are so many clever people in the world who know everything, that a few of us can well afford to be ignorant and own up to it. Like most wild oxen, the buffalo has amazing vitality. Unless killed outright by the first or second shot it dies very hard. Major Talbot tells me that on one occasion he saw one of these animals knocked down four times in succession, and each time it scrambled to its feet and charged again. When at length the old warrior was skinned, its body 88 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE was found to contain no fewer than thirteen Paradox bullets, and most of these had ‘* mush- roomed ” under the skin on the further side. Even experienced sportsmen have been puzzled by the unconcerned way in which some animals receive bullets in vital parts of the body. Indeed, these sometimes seem to take so little effect that beginners, who imagine that they held their rifle straight, are disheartened by the conviction that they must have missed altogether. I recollect the case of an old bull elk in Sweden, which was hit four times, after which he trotted quietly off into the forest. Yet it was afterwards discovered that two of the bullets had gone clean through the animal’s brain and two through the shoulder blades ! The remaining horned game of India com- prises all manner of deer and antelopes, though it is not the purpose of this book to include a full list. As examples of the deer, we may take the sambur and barasingh, while the most attractive and best known of the Indian ante- lopes is undoubtedly the blackbuck. The sambur, known to sportsmen in Ceylon as the ‘elk,’ is a splendid creature, though its antlers do not show the ten points of our Scotch stags, having, in fact, no more than three. As, how- ever, the sambur’s antlers may measure fifty inches, they make a beautiful trophy. The animal does not appear to shed them regularly CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 89 every year like our European deer, but some- times carries them for two or three seasons. All manner of explanations of this curious habit have been suggested, but no one really knows the reason. It is just guesswork. In colour, the sambur is light brown when young. The hind, indeed, retains the lighter colour throughout life, but the stag grows gradually darker, till old stags are nearly black. When angry or alarmed, this deer has a singular trick of making the hair on its back and neck stand on end, as ours is supposed to do when we see ghosts. The sambur is a child of the jungle, hating the glare of the Indian sun and hiding away all day in the cool bamboo glades. Like many other deer, it feeds up in hilly country, climbing to a height of fully eight thousand feet above sea-level. It is less suspicious than most of its tribe, and often, indeed, offers an easy shot because of the silly curiosity with which, instead of taking to its heels, it will stand and stare at the intruder. It is also less thirsty than other of the jungle-folk, and is found at times some distance from water. The majority of wild animals, on the other hand, are sought by sportsmen in the neighbourhood of river-banks and waterholes, and native hunters in both India and Africa do much damage by sitting up on moonlight nights, close to well-known drinking places, and blazing away at everything that g0 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE comes down to the brink, killing few, but wounding many. Some people always raise an outcry whenever anything is said against allow- ing natives to carry arms, but, as will presently be shown, it is these armed natives who, more particularly in Africa, are chiefly responsible for the disappearance of the very animals that we aim chiefly at protecting, so as to save them from the irrevocable edict of extermination, which has already gone forth against more than one beautiful and interesting wild animal in that continent. Colonel Williamson, several of whose varied memories of Indian sport I am privileged to relate in these pages, has often seen cases in which the well-known lack of scent in the majority of young animals has_ been the means of saving their lives. In sup- port of this. view, he recalled an experience with a young sambur. Accompanied by half a dozen natives from Ootacamund and _ their pariahs, which ran in company with his own spaniels, he had been shooting in some of the sholas (evergreen coverts which clothe the lovely ravines of the Nilgiris), and, having beaten one of them, had crossed, with the whole party of men and dogs, an open grassy space in order to try another, when he learnt that a woodcock had just left this second shola and flown across the open land to the one that CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS o1 had already been beaten. No one willingly lets a woodcock off in India any more than at home, so back they went through the long grass, almost doubling on their own tracks, and there lay a young sambur calf, wideawake, but crouching close to the earth. The hind had doubtless hidden it there and told it in her own fashion to lie still, whatever happened. The barasingh, or swamp-deer, is a smaller animal, but its antlers carry many more points, and the brow-tines (which may be compared to the lowest branch of a tree) are very large and conspicuous. Its colour is red along the back and sides and white beneath. It does not, like the sambur, keep to the densest portions of the jungle, but is more often to be found in the high grass in open spaces between two woods and nowhere very far from water, which it needs regularly and at short intervals. For this reason, it is one of the worst sufferers by the native practice referred to above. These men are not first-class shots, and their arms and ammunition are primitive. Europeans, with their modern rifles and knowledge of how to use them, are less objectionable, yet even they might occasionally set the natives a better example than they do. At the same time, the worst enemy of the sambur, at any rate, is not man, black or white, but the dhole, or wild dog, with which most people must be familiar 92 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE in Kipling’s stories, a handsome villain that runs down its prey in packs. From the moment these deadly hunters get on his trail, the stag is doomed and knows it, and in such terror do these deer go of wild dogs that they at once desert a district at the first sign of them. For- tunately, the wild dog is not afraid of man, so that there is not as a rule much difficulty in shooting it, an opportunity of doing which should never be missed, as these animals are among the worst poachers in India. Although, as will presently be shown, the wild dogs of Africa utter a note not unlike that of a fox- hound, the ordinary cry of these creatures is more like a howl, barking being an accom- plishment acquired in the tame state, though there is no record of when or how it was learnt. These dholes occasionally go mad, like elephants in must, and in that condition they sometimes run amok in the villages, biting men and goats and even, in lonely districts, attack- ing and killing coolies. They are not carrion- eaters, like the jackal, but kill their own food. To return, after this digression, to the bara- singh, it is also known as the Kashmir stag and is regularly shot by sportsmen in October, when its horns are in good con- dition and the herds are migrating eastwards through the passes and nullahs of the Hima- laya. The hinds and fawns, realising perhaps CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 93 that they have nothing to fear, feed close to the villages of the hillmen, but the old stags show great caution and remain on higher ground, where they are among the most diffi- cult of all animals to stalk. Of Indian antelopes, the handsomest and best known is the blackbuck. By the way, only the old bucks are actually black. Young males and does of all ages are yellow, but as the buck alone is shot for the sake of its black, corkscrew-shaped horns, which measure about twenty inches in a good head, the distinction of colour is not widely appreciated. Though this antelope is a dweller in the plains, occurring almost all over India, from the foot of the Himalaya to the sea coast, it is also found in forest country in the Central Provinces, and it is here, in fact, that the finest trophies are bagged, those from the Madras Presidency being much poorer. The blackbuck is regarded as a very difficult animal to stalk, which is remarkable, considering how it makes itself at home among the crops and in the midst of the native population. It may be that, in this case, the neighbourhood of man has taught it caution. This is the antelope which the rajahs and nabobs used to hunt with tame ‘‘ cheetahs,” or hunting-leopards, and some of them used lynxes for the same sport, but these are no longer employed, and even the hunting-leopard 94 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE has gone out of fashion in most parts of India. The cheetah was blindfolded and taken in a cart until within sight of a herd of buck. Then its eyes were uncovered and it was launched on the herd, from which it at once singled out a victim, hurling itself in its direction at so tremendous a pace as often to overtake it at the first onslaught. If it failed, the perform- ance was over, for the cheetah is not one of the persistent try-try-try-again order of animals, but sulks if baulked of its prey and does not dream of making another effort to catch it. It must be admitted that it shows wisdom in this, for, with such a start, the fleet-footed blackbuck would never allow itself to be caught. The hunting -leopard is nowhere very plentiful nowadays, though one well-known sportsman mentions having encountered no fewer than five of these animals in a district in which he was after bison. LION, TIGER, AND LEOPARD Coming now to the carnivorous animals of India, passing mention must be made of the Indian lion. Not everyone seems to realise, indeed, that there are lions anywhere out of Africa. The American puma, it is true, is known by that name in its own country, but it is no more a true lion than its neighbour, the CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 95 jaguar, is a tiger, though known as such. But there are real lions in India, or at any rate in the forest of Gir, in Kathiawar. They are small but very fierce, and have yellow manes. The Nawab of Joonagur strictly preserves these interesting animals, though occasionally allow- ing distinguished visitors to shoot them. Thus, Ranjitsinhji, now Jam of Nawanagar, was lucky enough to bag one in 1904. Another hunt was planned for the Governor of Bombay a few years ago, and on this occasion one of the party, Major Carnegy, was killed. It is usual to speak of Kathiawar as the last Indian strong- hold of this lion of Asia, which is much more plentiful in the neighbouring countries of Persia and Mesopotamia, but as a matter of fact there is no evidence to show that it was ever very widely distributed in India proper, where, in- deed, the steaming swamps and gloomy jungle are quite unsuited to the needs of an animal that, if we may judge by the haunts of its African relative, loves sunshine and dry soil. It is a curious fact that tigers are all but un- known in the district inhabited by lions, which makes it impossible to say which of the rival monarchs would be the victor in a fight under natural conditions, although in menageries the tiger has generally proved the better of the two. The lions of India need not further detain us. They do no damage outside of the preserve in 96 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE which they are left in peace, and they are in- teresting chiefly as the probable descendants of the lions of Bible story in the lives of Samson and Daniel. The great cat of India is the tiger, commonly acclaimed Lord of the Jungle. His lordship is not, however, undisputed. I remember read- ing a story in the Rangoon Gazette of a tame elephant pluckily rescuing its mahout from a tiger. Considering how mahouts often treat their beasts, it was an act of touching devotion. The man had washed the elephant as usual and was driving it to its feeding-ground, the animal walking a little in advance, when, all of a sudden, a tiger charged out of the jungle and knocked him over. The tiger then began to bite, and the man screamed for help. Back came the elephant in no end of a hurry, kick- ing the tiger into the air with such force that, on reaching the ground again, it fled for dear life, coughing up blood as it ran. Yet, in the great open-air menagerie. which we call the jungle, even the elephant is not always master, but goes in deadly fear of the rhinoceros, which, as Dr. Longstaff reminds me, fights differently from its African cousin. The African charges head down and tosses a man ora horse on its horn without difficulty. The Indian rhinoceros, on the contrary, charges head up and inflicts such fearful bites with the sharp teeth of the ‘BACK CAME THE ELEPHANT IN NO END OF A HURRY.” CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 97 lower jaw as to lame even an elephant in a few moments. The tiger may be less courageous than the lion. Several anecdotes in illustration of cowardice in both animals will be told in these pages, and, on the whole, the reputa- tion for greater bravery remains with the lion. . The tiger may even, in some districts, be less dreaded by the natives than its tree-climbing cousin, the leopard. Yet it remains, all the same, the most terrible creature in Asia. The natives of India hold it, as a rule, in such rever- ence’ that they rarely allow themselves to men- tion its name, even in a whisper. The jackal, in its master’s presence, utters a terror-stricken note utterly different from its usual howl. Even Europeans, armed with the latest rifle and ammunition, treat ‘‘Stripes” with respect, and those who know him best take fewest liberties when he is prowling around. He is the yellow peril of the jungle, and when he comes gliding sinuously through the undergrowth there is great commotion among the lesser brethren. Squirrels scritch and monkeys chatter with terror, peacocks and jungle-fowl scream, small deer fly panic-stricken out of harm’s way. I have seen it suggested that the dislike which many otherwise courageous people have for cats is to be regarded as a survival of the dread in which their monkey ancestors held tigers! G 98 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE This curious. fear which many people have of comparatively harmless animals, though quite indifferent to others larger and more danger- ous, seems to call for explanation. Earl Roberts, hero of a hundred fights, is often de- scribed as being afraid of a cat ; and I recollect a case of a lady lion-tamer, who played with bears and lions as if they had been so many kittens, confessing that she ran in terror from a blackbeetle! This only shows how difficult it is to call anyone either brave or cowardly without closer inquiry. Fancy anyone who happened to see the hero of Kandahar shrink from a cat calling him acoward! (As a matter of fact—I have his own authority for the correc- tion—Lord Roberts is not afraid of cats, but merely has an intense dislike of them.) Fancy, even, making the same mistake about a lady who toyed with lions, merely because you happened to see her in full flight before a cock- roach ! It is not often that one comes across a story in which the tiger is written of with sympathy, as a fellow-creature and not as vermin, but I am able to include one such view, for which I have to thank Mr. Edwin Arnold. ‘* Sometimes,” writes Mr. Arnold, ‘‘I fancy the wild animals know more about human nature than we know of theirs. All the wild CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 99 creatures’ instincts and perceptions are in their native freshness, whereas ours are dulled by centuries of artificial surroundings. At any rate, | am convinced that they possess an acute power of recognising sympathy, on the few occasions when man shows any for them, and that they entertain a profound, childlike be- lief in his power to give and to take, to help, or to destroy, as he pleases. We must, in fact, seem to the beasts of the field something like those implacable spirits, always dreadful, always to be propitiated when possible, with which our own far-off ancestors peopled their woods and hills. Whenever the man-spirit deigns to come down from his pedestal, for- getting his superiority for a little while, and approaching the humbler creation with that mesmeric and infectious goodwill that the animals are so quick to recognise, he finds him- self arriving at an understanding of animals’ ways and thoughts that he would before have deemed impossible. There is no need for him to be a sentimentalist. Hiawatha, who knew the heart of every wild thing, ,alternately caressed and used his bow. I have gone many a time into the jungle with my gun and, on coming up with my intended victims, have forgotten my errand, sitting openly among them, delighting in their gambols and piecing together such fragments of their conversation as seemed intelligible. It is true that I re- turned home empty-handed, but I was well content that it should be so. : ‘‘ In the man with an inborn gift of sym- 100 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE pathy, the animals do not resent bloodthirsti- ness, for that, they know, is part of all Nature. Even though they still dread his power, they no more think of rejecting his friendship than a child would think of refusing the love of a parent who has both the will and the ability to chastise. It is not to be denied that there are occasions on which their belief in your puissance may be embarrassing and their , craving for your sympathy inopportune. The following experience will, I think, illustrate a case in point. ‘‘T was walking home through the Indian jungle in the gathering dusk of evening and, when still several miles from any human habi- tation, I became suddenly aware of a gentle, measured footstep keeping pace with mine about a dozen yards away in the undergrowth. I had no weapon with me more formidable than a white umbrella and so proceeded quietly, wondering as to my companion’s identity. It was dark now, and a plaintive mewing suddenly removed all doubt. It was a full-grown tigress. This I knew, of course, from the voice, as the tiger speaks from further down in his throat, with a wholly different effect on the practised ear. To run, even had I been so minded, would have been absurd ; ‘to climb a tree, equally futile. There was nothing therefore to be done but to walk quietly on, and I did it. Step by step, follow- ing each winding of the little path, absolutely invisible in the shadows, the great beast ac- companied me through the forest, every now CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 1o1 and again giving one of those piteous, long- drawn mews so impressive in the silence. Just at first, I was a little nervous. I remembered having seen the half-eaten remains of brown men and women in that jungle, killed and left by tigers, and it was not by such a process that I wanted to go into eternity. In a few minutes, however, my nerves troubled me no longer. As I walked more slowly and listened to her voice, I became convinced that my in- visible friend was in trouble of some sort, and that she was telling me all about it and asking my aid. Indeed, I felt quite certain of this by the time we had gone half a mile, and, as if in response to my silent sympathy, she came a yard or two nearer. It may have been that her cub had got into difficulties—fallen in some waterhole, from which she could not rescue it, or starving in some cleft in the rocks of yonder peak, the inky outline of which, showing dimly through the tree-tops, made a barren space in the starlit sky. ‘* For all the rest of that long, lonely tramp, I was aching to help her, but that was clearly impossible. I could obviously not wander about a jungle all through the night and at the tail of a disconsolate mother, whose sorrow was possibly vague and uncalled for. Mewing gently every few moments, the tigress accom- panied me on my homeward way, up the slopes and down into the hollows, her great velvet paws now and then cracking a twig, and over the rivulets, where she would pause to drink, never giving me a glimpse of her, but ever 102 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE asking my help in that strange and melancholy voice. At last the lights of my camp-fires showed in the next dip. I walked on some fifty yards, to where the forest ended in a clear- ing, and then I stopped and listened. The mewing and footfalls had died away, and I knew, as well as if I could see her, that the tigress was sitting on her haunches in the last clump of bushes, sorrowfully watching me pass out of reach of her appeals. Poor creature! My heart went out to her in her nameless grief. It seemed as if she might be saying— *¢* You all-powerful; you, who can give and take ; you to whom nothing is impossible, who know my harmlessness and have recognised my grief; you who perhaps have cubs of your own, and yet will not come with me a little way—it is such a very little way—to do that which you could do so easily! You sympa- thetic? You to call yourself half-friend of the things that run and fly? Bah! I might as well have asked help from the cobra under that stone, or from the monkey coughing in the big fir-tree! See! My mood changes ; my tail twitches ; come back out of the moon- light into the shadows, and, lord though you be of the red fires there in the hollow, and of the thing that sends death over the hill-sides and nullahs, I will give you a tiger’s thanks for your discourtesy !’ ‘* Poor tigress! I could do nothing for her, so I went sadly back to camp, but her troubles spoilt my evening, and I lay awake at a late CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 103 hour wondering what help she had wanted and despising myself for having failed her.” The tiger is found in most parts of India, but it is absent from the extreme north-west of the peninsula, and is also unknown in Afghanistan and Ceylon. In appearance, it is utterly different from the lion, though both are members of the cat family. It has black stripes, not unlike those of zebras, on its orange coat, and the orange grows paler with age. The tail has no tuft at the end, like that of the lion, and the tiger is also without the lion’s mane, though the male wears a handsome ruff on his neck. A full- grown tiger may measure close on eleven feet from the tip of its snout to the tip of its tail, and, though there has been much talk of tigers measuring twelve feet, none has, so far, been recorded. The tiger’s larder is very varied. Large deer and small antelopes, tame cattle, jungle-fowl, peacocks, and even crocodiles’ eggs all figure in his bill of fare. His natural food is wild game, and with that he was doubtless satisfied in olden time before men and their cattle came on the scene to teach him other tastes. Nowadays, however, tigers are divided by Anglo-Indians under three heads—game-eaters, cattle-eaters, and man-eaters. As a matter of fact, not even 104 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE the foregoing list by any means exhausts the tiger’s choice of food, for it is known to prey on bears, leopards, and even other tigers, as well as on buffalo, young elephants, and tapirs, the last being, perhaps, its favourite food in the Malay jungle. The education of the cattle-eating and man-eating tiger suggests problems not un- like that of the ‘‘rogue” elephant, already noticed, but the process is less wrapped in mystery. Antelopes are hard to catch, and young elephants have big mothers to defend them. What, as Americans would say, was wrong with a tender heifer from a tame flock ? Enterprising tigers. tried the experiment with the most satisfactory results. It must have been so easy to creep silently up to the herd, or, better still, to lie in ambush beside some rock commanding the road along which the native herdsman drove his charges every evening at sundown. To pick out a victim, spring at its head, grip it by the throat and break its neck, must have been child’s play to a tiger. Then, when the rest of the herd stampeded, and the panic-stricken native was probably half way up a tree, the dead beast would be dragged away to the jungle and there gradually devoured, the tiger returning to the kill more than once and scattering the jackals and vultures that ravened in his absence. So hearty a meal, FROM THE CATTLE TO THEIR DRIVER WAS BUT A STEP... .” CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 105 without the fatigue of a chase or the risk of a fight, must have been acclaimed a vast im- provement on the old-fashioned way of doing things, and from that day forth the tiger would be aconfirmed cattle-eater, never more troubling about other food that could be procured only by means less simple. There is therefore no difficulty whatever in understanding how tigers came to be educated to a taste for beef, and the evolution of the man-eater is as evi- dent, since from the cattle to their driver was but a step, and the first man-eater may have killed his human victim accidentally when springing on one of the herd. Yet, in spite of this easy explanation of the man-eater as he is to-day, all sorts of theories have been sug- gested to account for him. The least fantastic of these is that man-eaters are aged animals, too slow and too feeble to hunt swifter or stronger game, no longer able to catch black- buck or to pull down a sambur, and therefore, in their hunger and extremity, forced to prey on the unarmed ryots and woodmen of the jungle. There is no doubt that, with wild animals as with tame (man included), oppor- tunity sometimes makes the thief, and the sight of these inoffensive peasants passing and repassing his lair might, we may easily im- agine, put the idea of eating one into a hungry tiger's head. There are, however, one or two 1066 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE undeniable facts which do not, as we shall see, bear out this theory of the man-eating habit. The first of these is that the majority of man- eaters are females the recognised offender is, in nine Cases out of every ten, a tigress. Another fact, even more hostile to this view, is that man-eaters, when at length they meet the doom they so richly deserve, are by no means always old or infirm animals, but may, on the contrary, be in the prime of life and in splendid condition. Abundance of human food might, to some extent, account for their condition, but even such fare could hardly make an old tiger young again, and the man-eater does not, there is good reason to suppose, eat a great many men in the course of each year. A third objection to the old-age theory is the fact of man-eaters being practically unknown in the Nilgiris and in some other parts of India. Yet we must surely assume that tigers grow old in these districts as well as in those infested by man-eaters, even though they do without human food to the end of their lives. It might possibly be shown that the natives of the Nilgiris are more courageous than those elsewhere, or that they do not go about their work unarmed. I have no further information on the subject, but such an explanation would be of great interest. In its absence, we must cer- tainly find the foregoing theory unsatisfactory. CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 107 Not every tiger, or lion, that eats a man is a man-eater by habit. The true man-eater stalks and kills its victims without provocation. Ifa wounded tiger should charge and kill a man and then devour him, the animal was not necessarily a man-eater before, though such an experience might make one of it henceforth. It is somewhat remarkable that the natives of Africa also regard man-eating lions as old and worn out, and Livingstone quotes them as saying of an old lion, ‘‘ His teeth are worn; he will soon kill men.” As a matter of fact, lions take to man-eating less often than tigers, and leopards more rarely still, The man-eating lions, with which, as told in that extraordinary book of his, Zhe Man-eaters of Tsavo, Colonel Patterson had so much trouble while engaged on railway construction in Africa, took dreadful toll of his coolies, but the leopards destroyed only his sheep and goats, one of them killing a whole flock in a single night. If the leopard, with its facility for climbing trees and lying in wait over the jungle-paths, should take regularly to man-eating, it would indeed be a terrible scourge. It may be that this power of climbing saves man from its appetite, for it is able to catch abundance of monkeys, which, though much appreciated, usually escape the jaws of the tiger. Now and then, it is true, tigers do stalk monkeys, and in some parts of 108 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE India the natives make use of this taste to get a tiger within shot. In order to do this, the native climbs into the higher branches of a tree close to the tiger’s lair and begins to chatter and to break off twigs just as monkeys do. This business is kept up until a stir in the bushes beneath betrays the tiger’s presence and interest in the proceedings, and then the native suddenly drops a bundle on the ground and screams. The tiger, thinking that, as some- times happens, a baby monkey has fallen out of its mother’s arms, rushes out into the open, and a rifle, posted in an adjoining tree, covers it before it has time to realise its mistake. Tigers stalk their prey with extraordinary cunning, but now and again, like all animals, they make a mistake which may, if turned to account, cost them dear. An instance of such an error was reported some time ago in Zhe Field. A sportsman was sitting one moonlight night in his machan, which is a platform erected in a tree, from which sportsmen shoot tigers and other game at night, and he was able to watch, himself unseen, the novel and interesting sight of a tiger stalking a sambur hind. He could not get a shot for a long time, for the simple but sufficient reason that the tiger kept in deep shadow. Then, quite unexpectedly, it made the last mistake of its life, for it came out into the bright moonlight. CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS tog Off went the sambur, and crack went the rifle, so that the tiger lost its meal and its life at the same moment. It is always desirable to take note of these mistakes made by the jungle-folk. They should increase our admiration for them instead of lessening it. Some people pretend to believe that the lower animals never make mistakes. They are so used to saying that ‘*to err is human” that they come to regard man as the only creature capable of miscalcu- lation. Yet animals, both wild and tame, are by no means infallible. Professor Lloyd Morgan, who has made a lifelong study of the mind of animals, calls my attention to the interesting case of some pheasant chicks cross- ing an open road near a wall. Suddenly, they stood as if struck motionless. At the same moment, a sparrow-hawk dashed over the top of the wall and easily secured one of the brood. Someone asked the Professor why the little creatures did apparently just the wrong thing in the circumstances. His answer was that the chicks had learnt to keep quite still on hearing a warning note from their mother and that, under ordinary circumstances, that would be the very best thing to do in presence of an enemy, as to run about would only betray their presence by the disturbance of the grass. In the open road, where, even keeping still, they were very conspicuous, running away into the 110 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE grass was, on the other hand, their only chance of escape, but they could not know this, their instinct not taking the altered circumstances of the case into account. ~ This may be com- pared with Colonel Williamson’s story of the young sambur in long grass, though Professor Lloyd Morgan does not offer the same suggestion of defective scent as an aid to self-preservation. Then, again, we have the well-known case of tame dogs hunting in India, which, though they ought to learn better, never miss a chance of attacking cobras and other dangerous snakes. The manner in which leopards pursue monkeys in trees has been referred to. If the monkeys would take the simple precaution of roosting only in trees with near neighbours, so that, in case of attack, they could jump from one tree to the next, they would seldom be caught by leopards. But they are foolish enough to go to sleep in solitary trees, with the result that escape is impossible, particularly as a couple of panthers sometimes hunt in company, one of them climbing into the tree and scaring the monkeys so that they presently lose their heads and jump to the ground, only to be caught by the ally in waiting at the foot of the tree. Major F. G. Talbot, p.s.o., told me a similar story, in which the fact of a tree standing alone prevented an Indian squirrel from getting away CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 111 from a most aggressive rook, which attacked the little animal vigorously. Realising that escape was out of the question, the squirrel kept up the fight for an hour, when an unlooked-for interruption came in the arrival of two doves, which immediately drove the rook off and sent it in headlong flight. It is not easy to under- stand why the doves took the squirrel’s part, unless, of course, they had a nest in that tree, though even so the squirrel would have been as likely a poacher as the rook. It may, of course, have been dictated by a chivalrous im- pulse to protect the weaker side, or it may, again, have been just love of a fight for fighting’s sake, though that is not a taste we usually associate with doves. Reference was made above to the machan, and the success of shooting from these plat- forms, such as it is, is due to another error of instinct. The tiger, though one of the most careful and suspicious of wild beasts, rarely looks up to see if there is danger overhead. The majority of wild beasts have the same peculiarity, and as, in the natural state, they have nothing to apprehend in that quarter, they never seem to learn to be on the look out for it, though the leopard, itself a climber, generally scans the trees for any sign of an enemy. From repeated reference to leopards climbing trees, the impression might be given that tigers 112 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE are in all cases unable to do so, but this is not the case. Some tigers undoubtedly climb trees, but it cannot be regarded as a common habit with them as with the leopard. The climbers may, of course, be particularly active tigers. This is where so many of us are apt to go wrong in our ideas of wild animals. We do not make allowance for differences in individuals. We speak of a tiger being able to do this, or of an elephant as unable to do that, as if the physical and mental powers of every tiger or every elephant in existence were precisely the same. Why no individuality? Surely no one would dream of describing a boy as a two-legged animal able to turn head over heels or sing in tune, for, as we know, there have been millions of boys unable to do either. Why, then, ignore the same difference in four- footed animals? To do so in the case of dangerous creatures like tigers may have disastrous results. Some tigers, for instance, whether actually able to climb trees or not, seem able, when standing erect on their hind legs against the trunk of a tree, to reach much higher than others of apparently the same stature. When building a machan, it is of the utmost importance to ensure the sportsman’s safety by realising the height to which a tiger can reach, for, though twelve or thirteen feet would be more than the height of the average CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 113 tiger in that position, the machan should be fully twenty feet from the ground, so that its occupant may take no chances. Passing mention has been made of the curious note of the jackal in presence of a tiger. It is very peculiar and is quite different from the ordinary serenade of jackals in their own company. Europeans look upon it as a note of kindly warning to the forest animals that the monarch is approaching and that they _had best clear out of his way while there is yet time for escape. The jungle-men know better. They know that, whatever may be the jackal’s virtues, kindness of heart is not one of them. It is clearly to the advantage of this humble hanger-on that the tiger should not be baulked of his prey, for when he is gorged the jackal has some chance of feeding on crumbs from the royal table. Yet we are asked to believe that the unselfish, tender-hearted jackal de- liberately does itself out of a meal by warning the small deer that their enemy is near. No; the ‘‘tiger-cry”’ of the jackal is probably a howl of uneasy terror, which it cannot help any more than tame dogs can help howling when frightened by anything uncanny. It is, indeed, only in moments of fear or pain that our domestic dogs forget their civilised trick of barking and revert to the dismal howl of their wild ancestors. H 114 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE As a matter of fact, experienced sportsmen are able to tell at once whether their spaniels or pointers are barking at dangerous game, such as tiger or leopard, or at monkeys, deer, or jungle fowl. The note in the case of the former is much sharper and more suggestive of mingled excitement and fierceness. It is not therefore surprising that a similar difference of note should be remarked in a wild cousin of the dog like the jackal. Time was when the jackal was regarded as the provider of the meal for lions, tigers, and other royal patrons, but we know now that he follows instead of showing the way. With reference to what was said above of the manner in which the jackal is supposed to warn the weak creatures of the wilderness, I am aware that cattle-birds may, from one point of view, be regarded as betraying to the hunter the whereabouts of hidden buffalo; but it must be remembered that they likewise warn the buffalo of the presence of the hunter, and that, after all, is their natural purpose. The tiger is a fine swimmer and always keeps in the neighbourhood of water. The leopard, on the other hand, is not a very thirsty animal and, being but a poor swimmer, rarely, even when pursued, takes to deep or swift water. In Northern India tigers are mostly shot from the back of an elephant, as CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 115 sport from a howdah affords most of the excite- ment, with very little of the risk, the worst that may happen (and it is quite bad enough) being that the elephant should take fright and stampede into the jungle, brushing its occu- pant off its back and tumbling him on the ground, with an infuriated tiger somewhere handy. This, however, is of fortunately rare occurrence. It is remarkable how easily two or three men on an elephant seem time after time to escape the notice of tigers and other wild animals on the ground. This, no doubt, is partly due to the tiger’s failure to look for danger from overhead, an omission already alluded to, but it is also, we may assume, the result of his mistaking a single elephant for a wild one, and therefore taking very little notice of it. When a number of elephants are used in beating up tigers, the latter are fully aware of the danger that threatens them, but a single one does not seem to excite their suspicion until the first shot is fired. Though a terrible fellow to come across at close quarters when wounded, the tiger is, under ordinary circumstances, an arrant coward. Give him a chance to slink away and he will do so. (Do not give a lion the same chance, for, though he does not always do so, he is quite likely to slink in your direc- tion, which is a very different matter.) Unless 116 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE provoked, the tiger takes good care to keep out of the way of Europeans ; and, hard as it is to make the ‘‘ Griffin” (i.e. the new-comer) believe it, he is probably, unless a cool shot, far safer in the forest without a rifle than with one, and all the protection he needs is a pair of leggings and a good stick for the snakes. In point of fact the jungle is in reality a much less terrible place than our stay-at-home friends picture it. Half its dangers are the result of imagination, and most of the other half are the result of lying on the part of those who cannot bear to return home with- out having enjoyed, on paper at any rate, their share of wild adventure. The method of shooting tigers from a machan has been mentioned. This entails tying up a goat or some other animal for bait, and also sitting up all night. The sounds and sights of the jungle on a warm Indian night are not without their attraction, but the results are not as arule very satisfactory, as some little mistake may warn the tiger to stay away, or, when it comes in sight, the darkness may be so intense that it is impossible to take aim. There are even intrepid sportsmen who shoot tigers on foot, which is not a recreation for anyone with ‘‘nerves”; and in the winding waterways of the Sunderbunds it is occasionally possible to get a shot at one from a boat. Now and again, CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 117 indeed, these terrible animals have been killed with simpler weapons. Sir James Outram slew one with a spear, and Colonel Duff was equally successful with a dagger. We are even assured that it is possible for anyone who may suddenly come unarmed on a tiger to quell the brute by staring at it. This is one of the thrilling experiences I prefer read- ing about. It suggests memories of the re- doubtable Major Corker in ‘‘ Aliph Cheem’s ” amusing Lays of Ind, in which, as you may remember, the Major says: **T laid my Purdey down, to my shikaree’s great surprise, And crossed my arms and calmly stared the tiger in the 9 ee ae a treatment which the valiant warrior repeated till the tiger lay dead in its den. Mesmeric powers of this order are sometimes claimed by vain and foolish natives, invariably with un- pleasant results. Thus, a Sepoy of the 33rd Sikhs made the experiment at the Calcutta Zoo not long ago, and lost most of his face for his trouble; and a Hindu of Bangalore was badly mauled on another occasion, when several villagers, interested spectators of the great man’s demonstration of his occult powers, suffered even more serious injuries than he did himself. In these days of long-range rifles, hunter and hunted rarely come face to face at 118 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE sufficiently close quarters to allow of these hypnotic attempts, yet one or two have been brought to my notice. A case of the sort, re- ported in Zhe Field, actually occurred as recently as 1910. A sportsman was out with his shzkarz (native gillie) in the Himalaya, and the man was walking about ten paces ahead, carrying his master’s *450 rifle. They were proceeding slowly through a thick forest of cedars when, of a sudden and without warning, the man stopped dead. The Englishman stopped also, and observed that the man, without turning his head, was beckoning him and holding out the rifle. On going up to the shtkarz, he saw a great panther sprawling on a rock some thirty feet below them. The panther was gazing intently at the native, who never once took his eyes off it, and the animal certainly seemed either unable or unwilling to move. The suspense seemed to last for several minutes, but was in reality a matter only of seconds, though time enough to enable the sportsman to slip in his cartridges, take careful aim and shoot the panther dead, with a bullet between the shoulders. He did not feel it a particularly creditable achievement to shoot an animal apparently mesmerised, but the panther in question had achieved an unenviable noto- riety in the district as a cattle-thief, so it was better dead than alive. What he puzzled over CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 119 afterwards was as to what would have happened if he had not had his rifle handy. Would the panther have slunk off, or would it have looked away, so as to break the spell, and then charged the native? The question is such an interesting one that it was almost a pity it had to remain unanswered. But in all probability the native preferred his employer’s solution to any other. One or two lion stories, bearing on this same influence of the human eye, will be told in their proper place. How far such power may be effectual in the wilderness remains an open question, but it may, in pass- ing, be remarked that its failure in menageries is no criterion whatever, since captive lions and tigers have, for obvious reasons, become so familiar with human beings as to have lost that fear of them which may, for aught we know, inspire those in the wild state that are rarely brought face to face with man. For an unarmed native to kill a tiger in its cave must be an unusual occurrence, but a case was communicated to Zhe Fzeld in which this actually happened, and it was certainly turning the tables with a vengeance. The natives in some parts of India have a great liking for roast porcupine, and, speaking from experience, I can say that they might do worse. When, therefore, they come to one of the small caves in which porcupines commonly lie up during 120 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE the day they sometimes light a fire at the mouth of it and watch for a drowsy, half-suffocated porcupine to emerge. A native, with this ob- ject in view, once set fire to a great heap of brushwood piled in front of a likely looking cave and took up a position from which he could see what happened. Nothing did hap- pen, and, although the natives of India are patient beyond most men, he gave up his vigil at last, and tramped home disappointed with his bad luck. Next day he passed the cave again, out of curiosity, and was amazed to find, lying just inside the entrance, a young tigress suffocated to death. She dared not make a dash for liberty through the smoke, not only because she was probably afraid of the flames, but for the still sounder reason that she knew that her charge must inevitably have carried her over the edge of the rock to a drop of at least fifty feet into a deep waterhole below. Now and again tiger-cubs are captured after the death of the mother, and I am in- debted to a correspondent for an account of two such occasions, on the second of which, as will be seen, the smoking-out method was also applied, though far more scientifically than in the case recorded above. It played no part, however, in the capture of a brace of cubs during a Christmas shoot in 1905, in H.H. the Maharajah’s reserve at Sacribail, CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 121 Mysore. My informant was walking along a jungle-path a couple of hours before day- light hoping to get a shot at sambur stags at dawn, when he and his two shzkarzs were suddenly arrested by the sound of animals moving in the dry bamboo leaves close by. They crouched down on the chance of getting a shot at the animals, whatever they might be, as they crossed a small open space imme- diately ahead. Suddenly they saw a tiger circling the party, with the object of getting behind and above for a spring. The English- man immediately put up his *500 express and fired at the tiger’s right shoulder, whereupon it vanished down a deep nullah. Just before daylight, a cub showed up in the tiger’s tracks and then retired again. Then the day came, and they set about following the tiger up. They were not long in coming on the animal, which proved to be a tigress. She had gone only a hundred yards and had then died, sit- ting up for all the world like one of the lions in Trafalgar Square and holding in her mouth a huge bunch of grass that she had seized in her rage. She must, indeed, have been in the act of springing when fired at, for the bullet, instead of penetrating behind the shoulder, had entered the centre of the chest, raked the heart and come out behind the ribs. It now remained to secure the cubs, and 122 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE that afternoon they got some nets and drove the valley into them, capturing a fine pair of cubs the size of mastiffs. As soon as the nets were over them the villagers placed the ends of long bamboo poles on the cubs and sat on the ends of the poles so as to hinder them from struggling, while men went close up and secured them with ropes. The cubs were eventually presented to His Highness and found their way to the fine Zoological Gardens at Mysore. Within the year, two more cubs were cap- tured by the clever tactics of Dafadar Taman Sing and four other members of Gordon’s Horse during a shoot in the Kinwet Reserve, Central Provinces, under the following circum- stances. An officer in that regiment had shot and mortally wounded a tigress that was sun- ning herself, half asleep, in the mouth of a cave. She managed, however, to dash out for a hundred yards, along the edge of a steep declivity, before a second shot rolled her over, dead, on the rocks forty feet below. At the same moment a well-grown cub was seen to leave the cave and to go back into it, and arrangements were accordingly made to build up the exit, and, if possible, to get the cub next day. Further investigation revealed no fewer than eight caverns, each of which pos- sibly communicated with the rest, and there CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 123 were numerous tracks of tiger, bear, and hyena. Taking all necessary precaution against a sudden charge, the party built up the eight entrances securely with rocks and_ timber. Next morning the entrance in which the cub had been seen overnight was carefully opened, and it was found necessary, after making a chevaux de frise of hog-spears, to enlarge this entrance by excavating the floor to a depth of more than a foot. It was then found, on probing the interior of the cavern, that there was an outer chamber, about fifteen feet in diameter, from which an entrance two feet square led to an inner chamber of considerable depth so far as could be judged. In the course of these operations, a deep growl from the interior announced that a tiger was at home, but whether it was the full-grown male or merely a cub could not at once be deter- mined. Two of the regimental shzkarzs, Naik Athman Sing and Sowar Jeimal Sing, now entered the outer chamber armed with hog- spears and made certain that there were no other exits. A number of bundles of dry grass were now cut and pushed, with the aid of a twenty-foot bamboo, into the inner chamber, and a torch was next lit and thrust in on the bamboo, while the mouth of the cavern was completely covered with blankets held in place 124 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE by the cavalry sowars. Smoke soon began to issue through the crevices and the cave was soon full of it. more than once seized bathers in the sea. Crocodiles and alligators show extraordinary boldness in many Indian tanks and rivers, probably because, being held sacred, they get a very poor idea of human beings. Now, sharks, on the other hand, rarely, if ever, attack a party of swimmers bathing and splashing together. It is the solitary swimmer only who runs serious risk from these monsters. In more than one tropical sea I have bathed in company, with the fins of large sharks cleaving the surface just outside the reef. I do not pre- tend that I liked it, but none of the others seemed to mind, and it was no good making a fuss. Moreover, the weather was hot, and the water was cool, so there were temptations. Such liberties must not, however, be taken with alligators. Not very long ago, the native crew of a liner anchored in the Hooghly were swimming round the ship, when suddenly an officer on deck noticed a huge mugger paddling silently up to them, its long snout showing just above the surface. Next instant the brute shot CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 145 among the bathers with a terrific commotion, and pandemonium reigned while the lascars squealed and scrambled for the ladder, up which the last of them only just managed to clamber as the alligator snapped its jaws just clear of his feet. Meanwhile the officer was busy emptying the chambers of his revolver all round the brute, which evidently realized that it had been defrauded of its meal, since it lashed the water furiously with its great tail, showing every sign of disappointed rage. 146 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE 2. AFRICA If we still call Africa the ‘‘ Dark Continent,”’ it is from force of habit, for this is no longer anything but a courtesy title that has survived from the days of Livingstone and Mungo Park. Africa has long since been brought within reach of the tourist. Ladies even travel alone beyond rail-head in machzdlas, i.e. litters carried by native bearers. The Uganda Railway affords intimate glimpses of the Great Rift Valley and its big game, and it will not be long, at the present rate of development, before we have the Sleeping Car Company running week-end trips to Timbuctoo. Busy cities, with telephone and electric light, stand to-day where, fifty years ago, pioneers camped in the wilderness and heard the lion roaring for his prey. All this opening up of Africa by those who dig for gold or diamonds has not been without its effect on the wild life, which has been driven back, little by little, until, even within the memory of Selous and other living sportsmen, the buffalo and antelopes have for- saken haunts in which, not many years back, they still abounded. Nevertheless, in spite of the inexorable march of civilisation, which, in the New World, swept the buffalo and Red Man off the prairie in order that Americans might grow wheat to cram the elevators on the CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 147 lake shores, Africa is still a marvellous museum of living specimens. It is not many years since its forests yielded the okapi, a large beast, suggestive of zebra and giraffe in one, hitherto unknown to Europeans and a mystery even to the natives. Many African animals, including the hippopotamus, zebra and giraffe, are found nowhere outside of the continent. The spell of the African forest is distinct from that of the jungle in India. The equa- torial region is more mysterious and further from civilisation. India has been’ under European rule for more than a century. Its jungle supports a dense human population, and the natives, though superstitious as all Eastern races are, know a good deal of the wild crea- tures and their ways. Railways penetrate in all directions, even high into the hills. There is a little insect in Africa known as the tsetse-fly— there are several kinds, but I refer to the one associated with the terrible disease known as sleeping sickness—which must always, so far as we Can see at present, exclude Europeans from thousands of square miles, but there is no such scourge in India. Even where this poisonous carrier of infec- tion is unknown, the climate of Africa is, in many parts, almost intolerable. It is less a question of darkness than of glare. Then, again, the natives are in every respect, save 148 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE that of colour, different from the Indians. Most of them are negroes. Their knowledge of natural history amounts to very little. A few make brave and skilful trackers of elephant or lion, but of the habits of wild animals the vast majority know little and care less. They would rather have them dead than living, for they eat every bird, beast, and reptile in the land, and the traps in which they capture them, from the great hippopotamus down to the smallest gazelle, are primitive and cruel. Of the arts of taming wild creatures and making them perform useful work they have no notion. Cattle, sheep, and goats they keep, of course, and occasionally one hears of a wild dog being trained for the chase; but as for training an elephant to haul timber, or a cormorant to catch fish, they would scoff at the idea. Elephant and cormorant alike go into the pot. Different as are the wild animals of the two regions, they have also some features in common. Each has its lion, leopard, rhino- ceros, buffalo, wild boar, and monkeys. On the other hand, India has no giraffe, and Africa no deer. India has no zebra, and Africa no bear. India is poor in antelopes, but rich in wild sheep. Africa has but one wild sheep (of no great account), but a grander assemblage of ante- lopes than all the other continents put together. But that this book aims at giving most of its CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 149 space to those creatures which, for purposes of sport, we call Big Game, first place in any account of African animals should belong by right to the great manlike apes, the gorilla and chimpanzee, the long-armed gibbons and dog- faced baboons. These ‘‘wild men of the woods” are, with the red-haired orang-outang of Borneo, the most human of all the lower animals. They are consequently of supreme interest to every naturalist who recalls the poet’s injunction that ‘‘the proper study of mankind is man.’’ In one respect, indeed, the apes even have the advantage. They are not four-footed, but four-handed, a boon which is best appreciated at moments when, with both hands full, we find ourselves seriously handi- capped for want of a third. Christmas shop- ping may be suggested as one of the occasions on which two or three more hands would be welcome. The apes do not go shopping, but they are able, at any rate, to move at great speed in the tree-tops, swinging from bough to bough with a grace and agility that must be seen to be believed. The most familiar monkeys in South Africa are the baboons, terribly destructive brutes, killing sheep, goats, and poultry wholesale, and damaging standing crops beyond all hope of recovery. So costly are their depredations that every now and then the farmers are com- 150 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE pelled to muster and to slaughter all the baboons they can find, just as the farmers of Devon- shire organise shooting parties in the spring to slaughter the woodpigeons that eat their young clover. An old male baboon is a savage customer absolutely devoid of fear. One of these animals has been known to enter a lonely farm building in broad daylight, and when a fierce mastiff was sent to tackle the intruder, it was the dog that got the worst of the encounter. No one will blame the farmer for destroying these greedy and danger- ous neighbours of theirs, but even though not sacred as in India, monkeys should never be shot for sport. They are, above the majority of small animals, interesting to watch, and there is, or should be, something sympathetic about a monkey, whether in its native tree-tops or on a hand-organ. Moreover, these alert and nervous little creatures are at times of service to the sportsman, for, ever on the look out for danger, they are quick to notice the least move- ment of a leopard or other dangerous animal in the undergrowth, and their frightened chatter frequently betrays the whereabouts of big game that might otherwise escape notice. THE LION AND LEOPARD The grandest animal in all Africa, indeed the acknowledged king of beasts, is the lion. CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 151 Its black mane (there are maneless lions as well) and splendid head give it a noble appear- ance, which has perhaps inspired poetical notions of its character ; but a full-grown lion, measuring, it may be, nearly six feet along the body, with another three feet of tail, is, to my mind, a more imposing sight than a tiger. Yet comparisons between the two are perhaps un- necessary. There is room in the world for both, and it is only in Persia that the two meet on common ground. Those who prefer to regard the Bengal tiger as the more royal beast of the two are free to do so, and the impression of its sovereignty owes much to the superstitious reverence in which it is held by the natives of India. The negro has his debil-debil and his voodoo, but he has no such veneration for Nature as we find in the more sensitive and intelligent people of India. He will run from a lion as fast as his legs will carry him, but veneration is no part of his character. The cowardly behaviour of the tiger, which is rarely known to give battle without provoca- tion, is too generally admitted to need further evidence. It seems to be less widely known that the lion is also capable of showing the white feather at times, and it may be of interest to give one or two stories in which the king of beasts has shown himself anything but a king. 132 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE Colonel D. F. Lewis, c.s., tells me that he was travelling in the Sudan one night in February, 1903, with a small caravan, con- sisting of twelve donkeys, eight mules, two or three armed Sudanese, and half a dozen transport servants. Suddenly, at about eleven p.-m., when the moon was rising over the scene, a lion crossed in front of the caravan, not more than forty yards away, and stood gazing at it. Colonel Lewis halted the caravan, but being unable in the dim light to see the foresight of his carbine, he would not fire for fear ot merely wounding the animal and endangering the life of his followers. The lion, having satisfied its curiosity, walked quietly off into the forest. Yet, after all, this experience does not show the lion to be a greater coward than its Indian cousin, for the average tiger would not have come out of hiding at all until the caravan had passed. Not the most desperate and famished man-eater in the Indian jungle has ever been known to display the same cunning and audacity as the famous lions of Tsavo, one of which actually dragged a sleep- ing man through the window of a railway carriage. Both lions and tigers doubtless differ in courage, and one may be more care- less of danger than another. There are, however, occasions on which even lions seem to recognise man as their master. A sports- CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 153 man suddenly found himself face to face with four full-grown lions. He dared not fire, for at most he might have killed one of the party, and, for aught he knew to the contrary, the others might have set upon him to avenge their comrade. So, with extraordinary presence of mind, he unstrapped his field-glasses, rushed at the lions with a loud yell, and flung the glasses at them. So terrified were the brutes by his extraordinary behaviour that all four turned tail and bolted into the bush. It must have needed remarkable nerve to run towards four lions in this way, and anyone less brave would have fired wildly at the lions or run away from them, either of which mistakes might have cost him his life. Another adventure of the kind, still more desperate in some ways, befell Mr. Percy Reid. He had fired at a lioness and wounded her, having mistaken her, in the long grass, for an antelope of some kind. Next moment, to his horror, out came the wounded lioness, with two others and a lion. Here, indeed, was a pleasant moment, the kind of moment in which a man sees all his past. The wounded beast charged, but for some reason she swerved to one side and missed him, looking over her shoulder and growling savagely as she went by. Then the others moved away. Mr. Reid asked Selous what he would have done in the 154 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE circumstances, and that mighty hunter gave it as his opinion, from long and unique experience of these animals, that if he had managed to shoot one of the animals dead, the rest would in all probability have bolted, but that if he had only wounded it badly, they would have been just as likely to charge. Perhaps the most convincing case of coward- ice in lions is one for the story of which I am indebted to Mr. H. C. de la Poer (of the Warwickshire Regiment), and which may be told in his own words :— ‘‘One morning, about eleven, when shooting in the Northern Territories of the Gold Coast, I climbed a steep, rocky hill to get a better view of the bush-covered plain below, and on reaching the summit, moving silently over the rock in felt-soled boots, I blundered right into a small party of lions asleep. The lion, with one lioness, jumped up and trotted behind some boulders about ten yards further on. As my gun-bearers were some distance behind, with both my rifles, I could do nothing but stand there and gape; and while I was thus occupied, a second lioness rose, literally at my feet, stretched herself, gave me a long stare, and finally walked slowly in the direc- tion taken by her companions. When she had gone a few yards, however, she stopped, turned broadside to me, and stared again. By wagging my hands furiously behind my CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 155 back, I managed to bring up one of the men with a rifle, a single-barrelled weapon which, in view of the presence of other lions, I pre- ferred not to use first. My soldier orderly had to make a second trip to get the other, a double ‘450, for the other gun-bearer was too scared to bring it himself. All this time the lioness kept her position, showing no sign of uneasiness, and not even stirring when I took a step forward and sat down on a stone so as to take steady aim. The shot knocked her, dying, down the hillside, and at this the other two began growling and ‘ wuffing,’ but, to my disappointment, they did not show up. I gave them a few moments’ grace, and then went very cautiously in their direction. Coming round a huge boulder, I came suddenly on the lioness, but could see only her tail, the rest of her being hidden behind the rock. The tail was nearest to me, but just as I caught sight of it it gave such a swing that I feared the lioness must have turned and might be waiting to strike me down as I passed. In order to avoid this, I turned back and climbed the boulder quickly in the hope of seeing her below me, but, alas, I never saw her again. Almost immediately, however, we had a view of the lion trotting away in the plain below, some two hundred yards away, but the bush was so thick that a shot was out of the question. I saw him once again, some three or four hundred yards away, and, marking him as best I could by the trees, I left the hill and ran after him, but the grass was very 156 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE high, and I saw no more of him until, a long way off, I saw him bounding along clean through a herd of hartebeest, which made way for him, but faced him, heads lowered.” This curious and interesting experience shows that some lions at any rate think discretion the better part of valour. Well, other kings have done the same before now! Just as a cow-elephant is more likely to make an unprovoked attack on man than a bull, soa lioness is far more likely to fight for her consort than her consort for her. Acting on this well- known fact, Sir Henry Seton-Karr recom- mends anyone coming on a lion and lioness together to shoot the latter first. If the lion be killed, the widow usually charges at once ; but the death of the lioness is not always re- sented in such violent fashion by the survivor. I have to thank Mr. Percy Reid for two other stories, of which the first, at any rate, shows the lion in a character anything but heroic. Still, this may have been a cowardly lion, and anyone who should emulate. the recklessness of Mr. Reid and his companion might, with a braver individual to encounter, pay for his temerity with his life. Mr. Reid was out one morning along the banks of the Majdi River and presently he saw, silhouetted on the horizon, what at first glance he took to ’ “ig Seasag, aa “CLEAN THROUGH A HERD OF HARTEBEESTE.” CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 157 be a fine wildebeest, as it had the curious appearance of being all neck and shoulders familiar in that eccentric-looking antelope. On looking more carefully, however, Mr. Reid saw that what he had taken for a wildebeest was in reality a magnificent lion, evidently re- turning from its night’s hunting to lie up in one of the reed-beds at the river-side. He ran along with the object of cutting off the lion’s retreat, but it was too quick for him, and he had only time for a hurried shot at about 120 yards range, at the moment when it reached shelter. He distinctly heard the thud of the bullet, and the wounded lion sprang into the reeds with a loud grunt, It was obviously useless to follow it alone into its hiding-place, so he went back to camp and, with a friend, turned out the dogs and native boys, the latter numbering about forty and being armed with knives and assegais. The sportsmen had their rifles, and the whole company set out to beard the lion in his den. Mr. Reid reminds me that all this happened many years ago, when he was young and hasty, and I am bound to confess that he and his friend seem to have behaved on this occasion with a want of caution which, with the average wounded lion at bay, would have given them a poor chance of es- caping with their lives. The reed-bed was an isolated patch covering rather more than an 1s8 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE acre, and the stems stood ten or twelve feet high. The first proceeding was to guard every likely exit through which the lion might break and to send the dogs in after it. The fun soon began; lion roaring, dogs baying, and every moment the men posted outside expect- ing the furious animal to charge. But some- thing quite different happened. A sharp yell of pain came from one of the dogs, and out came the pack with their tails between their legs. They had had enough of it. Only one, the best hound of them all, stuck to the enemy, and he, poor brute, presently limped in view with his back broken. It is not surprising that, after such an experience, nothing would induce the dogs to face the lion again, so Mr. Reid and his friend decided that there was nothing for it but to go in after the lion them- selves. A start was made, and the plan de- termined on was to cut two main paths at right-angles and then to beat each quarter of the covert in turn. Cutting down those tough reeds, each the thickness of a man’s wrist, was laborious work, but half a dozen of the boys went at it with a will, the two Englishmen following at their heels, rifles cocked and senses alert. When the party had got about half way, a terrific roar shook the reeds, and back jumped the boys, all but knocking Mr. Reid and his friend over in their anxiety to get CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 159 away, and flinging their assegais about with so little regard for what they might hit, that there was worse to fear than the lion, which never once showed so much as its nose. They spent the whole day in that reed-bed with the brute, which often made itself heard, but was never seen. Once, indeed, it did break a short way out of covert, but quickly turned in again. And so the sun went down, the party were dead tired, and they had to give it up, hoping that the lion might still be in posses- sion next morning. They were back again at daybreak, but the lion’s tracks were now seen leading unmistakably away from the _ reed- bed, and, although they followed the spoor for a mile or more, they never set eyes on the animal again. That particular lion was un- questionably a coward, believing in the policy of living to fight another day, and on this account the more interesting by way of contrast with the many lions that have faced tremen- dous odds and died fighting. On the second occasion, Mr. Reid was luckier, though here also he ran great risk of being mauled, if no worse. It was in Barotse- land this time, and about the hour of sunset. He was sitting in camp and had, in fact, re- placed his boots and gaiters with a pair of slippers, previous to cooking his supper, when one of the camp boys came running up with 160 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE the pleasing information that lions were after the donkeys. Snatching up his rifle and cart- ridge-belt, he ran off, followed, as luck would have it, by three or four of the dogs, which took up the scent of a lion before they had run a couple of hundred yards and dashed off full cry into the bush, with Mr. Reid at their heels. As he proceeded, the bush became thicker and thicker, and at last he had to stoop and crawl under it as best he could. It was so dense, indeed, that he could only push on with the greatest difficulty, though he could hear the dogs baying the lion in the distance. More than once the lion managed to break away from them, only to be brought to bay again a little farther on. The light was failing by now, and Mr. Reid was just thinking of giving up the hunt when he realised, from the sounds of the fray, that he must be getting very near, and suddenly he came on a fine lioness lying facing him, under a bush about ten yards away, with the dogs round her. It was much too dark to see the rifle-sights, so he took the best aim he could and fired. Fortunately, the bullet caught the lioness in the mouth and dropped her dead where she lay, but, with a less lucky shot, the result of the encounter might have been very different. It might have been thought that the disturb- ing spectacle of a man on a bicycle would, in CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 161 the old days, at any rate, have been enough to send most wild beasts, even lions, into hiding. If I remember right, a well-known traveller in Morocco, who is now dead, once bicycled right against a wild boar and was charged. Nowa- days, no doubt, with the opening up of Africa, even the rare and timid okapi is familiar with the sight of cyclists, but twenty years ago a . bicycle must have been an unusual apparition in the African forest, and it was about that time that a cyclist had a very narrow escape indeed between Blantyre and Namazi. The story was as follows: It was late in the evening and dark- ness was falling swiftly, as it does in Africa, with only the faint illumination of a young moon. The man had dismounted and was pushing his machine uphill, when, suddenly, he heard a heavy animal of some kind moving in the bush close to the road. He thought that, at the worst, it might be a buffalo moved by curiosity to keep step with him, as these animals sometimes will. Still, the sensation of any wild animal of such size so close to him was sufficiently unpleasant to make him hurry as much as was possible on a bad road. When he was about half way up the hill, something prompted him to look round. It was well that he did so, for there, standing broadside across the trail and looking straight at him, was a full-grown lion. Even as he looked back, it L 162 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE charged, growling savagely as it came bound- ing up the road. He made a frantic attempt to mount his bicycle and failed ; then failed a second time, the lion gaining on him all the while; and at last succeeded, though the machine wobbled so from side to side that the distance between man and beast dwindled every minute. After what seemed an inter- minable delay, he reached the top and flew down the other slope, his machine finally jumping a culvert, on coming to which the lion fortunately gave up the chase. It was, however, a near thing, and the cyclist made up his mind to indulge in no more moonlight rides in that neighbourhood. Even the motor-cycle has no terror for the lion. A lady and gentleman, riding on these machines in Central Africa, were recently chased by two of these animals over a distance of five miles. The lions showed no fear what- ever of the noise made by the engines, but galloped after them with evident intent to kill. The riders outdistanced them and eventually reached home much shaken by so trying an experience. Like its little cousin, the tame cat, the lion keeps its claws sheathed except in battle, so that its footprints never show the claw-marks. This fact has not always been honoured by artists in their realistic pictures of wild life, but er eee . CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 163 they would do well to take note of it so as to escape the reproach of having tracked their lions only in the studio. The lion’s roar does not impress everyone alike, since some of us are more sensitive to sound than others. Thus, some folk are curiously disturbed by the scritching of bats, while others do not even hear it. Much of the terror commonly in- spired by the voice of the lion depends on the circumstances in which it is heard. Those who hear it in the Zoo, knowing themselves perfectly safe, cannot be troubled by it as were the Christian martyrs waiting for their dreadful death in the Roman amphitheatre. Heard at night in the forest, or on the veldt, its vibra- tion shakes the earth, yet some travellers have found it no more terrible than the booming note of the ostrich, and even in the lower animals familiarity with lions may soon breed contempt. The elands and buffaloes that live in the paddocks close to the Lion House in the Zoological Gardens at Regent’s Park munch their hay, perfectly indifferent to the terrific roaring close by, paying no more at- tention to it than they do to the strains of the band, though on their native veldt such music would send them scampering in headlong flight. The lion has several notes, purring on ordinary occasions like the great cat it is, but, when angry or wounded, coughing and ‘‘ wuff- 1644 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE ing’? in much the same way as the tiger. Like other cats, it stalks its prey in silence, creeping and circling till close enough for the final spring. When one lion roars in the night, another often takes up the proud challenge. Then, like rival stags in a Highland glen, they may meet and fight it out. Colonel Andrew Haggard, p.s.o., tells a good story of how, on one occasion, in Abyssinia, this habit of answering the challenge nearly brought about a disaster in his camp. He had with him at that time an Egyptian staff officer, who bragged so continuously of his own bravery, and more particularly of his disdain for lions, which apparently had no terror for him, that the other natives, tired of always having to listen to this self-praise, set a trap for him. It so happened that one of the Colonel’s Abyssinian servants was a wonderful mimic, and his reper- toire, an extensive one, included a remarkably realistic imitation of a lion’s roar. This sug- gested an opportunity of putting the valiant Egyptian’s boasted courage to the test. One night, when the party were seated round the camp fire, a terrific roar suddenly sounded out of the darkness only a few paces away. So real was it, indeed, that even Colonel Haggard, who had been waiting for it, and who had also, by way of precaution against stampede, had the goats and camels tied up, gripped his CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 165 revolver. As for the Egyptian, he fled into the night, leaving the party convulsed with laughter. So far, all had gone well, and everyone was much pleased with the not un- foreseen result of the experiment. Then the laughter suddenly ceased, for another roar, even more terrible than the first, sounded close to the camp. The ventriloquist had been sitting with the rest, but he was now as panic-stricken as they, for this time it was a real lion that had taken up the challenge, and he was the last to appreciate so practical a tribute to his talent for imitation. Fortu- nately, the brute was driven off before doing any mischief, but the evening’s comedy might easily have been turned to tragedy. Although the lion may ungrudgingly be acclaimed the king of beasts, there is no need to believe all the rubbish written about its nobility of disposition and, in particular, its alleged reluctance to kill an unarmed man. It is neither noble nor magnanimous, nor has its life on the veldt taught it any belief in plain living and high thinking. It is just a cat that hunts zebras, or even an occasional young hippopotamus when it can find one on land without its parents, instead of mice, and it is often a hungry cat—savage, greedy, and cun- ning. Lions are partial to a young’ giraffe, but as 166 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE the two do not flourish in the same parts of Africa, the giraffe liking dry desert, where water is too scarce for the comfort of lions, they cannot often gratify their taste. Mr. H. A. Bryden tells me that full-grown giraffes, like other heavy game, sometimes manage to dislodge lions that have leapt upon them by brushing them off against the timber, and he saw one giraffe, at any rate, which showed unmistakable signs of such an encounter. The most extraordinary case of escape from lions was that of the giraffe seen by the great hunter of the eighteen-fifties, Andersson. It was attacked by no fewer than five lions at once, but was rescued by his natives, who drove the lions off. The African leopard has much the same habits and appearance as its Indian namesake, and, unless it be slightly smaller, may be regarded as the same animal. It is, as in India, the most destructive of all big game, and kills sheep and goats for the sheer pleasure of killing, and without any thought of eating its victims. The natives therefore hate it even more than they do the lion. A whole flock of sheep may be found dead at daybreak, each animal with a single bite in its throat and not one of the number devoured, the marauder having just slaked its thirst for blood and gone CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 167 its way. It is not surprising, then, in view of its habits, that gun, trap, and poison should be employed against it. Yet, although given to slaying farm stock in this way, it will, in the jungle, return to a kill again and again in the same way as the lion and tiger. The only animals which we know to act differently are the hunting-dogs, which, after eating a small portion of each kill, commonly leave the rest to the vultures and go after other prey. The leopard is, as has been said in connection with these animals in India, quite distinct from the cheetah, or hunting-leopard, and the two are, in fact, sworn foes. A fight between them was once witnessed in the Government Game Reserve on the Crocodile River. The cheetah appears to have killed an antelope and was eating it when a leopard came on the scene and killed the cheetah in its turn. The African cheetah seems to be even scarcer than its Indian namesake and is rarely encountered by sportsmen, though one was shot during one of Lord Delamere’s trips in Somaliland. HUNTING-DOGS AND HYENAS The hunting-dog, which ranges over Africa from the Sahara to the Cape of Good Hope, is at times even more destructive than the leopard. These animals vary so much in 168 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE colouring that, in fact, hardly two can be found, even out of the same pack, exactly alike. When on the trail they show the same indiffer- ence to the presence of human beings as the Indian dhole, and occasionally they even attack natives. On the other hand, cases have been known in which the negro, as an exception to his curious incapacity for taming wild creatures, has captured a young hunting-dog and trained it (like the Indian cheetah) to course antelopes. These dogs hunt their prey chiefly at night and entirely by scent, but they have also been seen chasing antelopes in broad daylight. They will run down the heaviest roan or sable, hunt- ing mute and snapping at the fugitive’s hocks till at last they are able to pull it down. The natives of the Gold Coast credit the hunting- dog with great courage and ferocity. Once, they say, a pack gets on the trail it never leaves it until it has killed, and they go so far as to assert that even lions and young ele- phants are hunted by these brutes. It may be that, owing to the scarcity of hunting-dogs in that region of Africa, they assume the terrors of the unknown in native eyes ; but Mr. de la Poer tells me that he knew of one native, at any rate, who had been hunted and treed by them, and he himself had an encounter with a pack which was quite exciting enough for the average taste. He came on about forty CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 169 of them unexpectedly when they were lying down round a roan antelope that they had killed, and the whole pack immediately sur- rounded him and his orderly, snarling, barking, and making little jumps towards him, but never coming nearer than seven or eight yards. He was, as he readily admits, thoroughly scared, and no wonder, for, as his second gun- bearer had bolted at the first alarm, he had only one weapon—a single *400—and, as any- thing short of a Maxim would have been useless against such numbers, it would have been madness to fire. After about ten minutes of what seemed interminable suspense, they drew off, and he bagged one at ninety yards. On his return to camp, the dogs fol- lowed and made a ring round the men of about three hundred yards radius, calling to each other incessantly with a note much like a fox- hound’s. Then, at last, they cleared off. Mr. de la Poer quaintly remarks that, in his opinion, if they had not had their kill, his orderly’s in- vocations to Allah might not have been heard in time. Of hyenas Africa has three kinds—spotted, striped, and brown—all of them less attractive even than the hunting-dogs, since they are cowardly brutes, terrified of man, though bold enough to kill a sleeping native. Like the kea of New Zealand, hyenas have learnt their 170 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE taste for mutton from opportunity, for before such food was to be had on the veldt they must have been content with carrion. These hideous ghouls always gather in the wake of retreating armies. Large numbers appeared along the line of march when the forces of the Mad Mullah were retiring before our cara- vans, and when the bloodthirsty Zulu chief, Chaha, had in the course of his depreda- tions, laid waste vast areas of South Africa, hyenas simply swarmed over the battlefields and feasted on the naked dead. In the ordin- ary way, hyenas are creatures of darkness, but they are sometimes seen abroad during the day. Major Kennard once witnessed a terrific battle between two striped hyenas in India, in a nullah not far from Muttra. So occupied were the combatants with each other that they took no notice whatever of him, so he shot one of them dead. Then the other began to worry it, and he shot that as well. This curious failure of instinct is very common in wild animals that fight in presence of man and allow themselves to be shot rather than take the more sensible course of forgetting their quarrel for the moment and escaping from the common danger so as to fight it out in safety another day. The case of duelling stags is a familiar one, and many a fight to the death has been witnessed by keepers in the High- CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 171 lands. Where hyenas feed, there also gather the vultures. I have seen them come round a carcase in the most astonishing fashion, dropping out of the blue sky in a few minutes, though there was no sign of one _ before. Either the eyesight of these scavenging birds must be something quite beyond our concep- tion, or else they are gifted with some sixth sense of which we know nothing. The fact remains that unless a newly killed animal is instantly and effectually concealed under branches, the vultures are certain to mark it for their own long before it is cold. THE AFRICAN ELEPHANT In considering the appearance and _ habits of the African elephant, it will not be possible to treat the subject at the same length or from the same point of view as in the case of its Indian cousin, for, unfortunately, our attitude in respect of the two is quite different. The Indian elephant has long been the faithful ser- vant of man, and, from close association with its mahout, much of its life is an open book. In consequence, there are numerous interesting and authentic stories of its memory and saga- city, such as those related on an earlier page by Sir William Lee-Warner. The African elephant does not come before our eyes in the same intimate fashion. It has, unhappily, 172 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE been regarded by mankind chiefly as the source of ivory, and has been killed first and studied afterwards, so that, while we know something of its body, its mind is shrouded in mystery, and whether it be more or less intelligent than the Indian kind none can say from experience. Reference has already been made to the fact that, in spite of the word maxzmus being the approved scientific distinction of the Indian species, it should by right belong to the African, which is much larger. Thus, the world- renowned ‘‘Jumbo” stood 11 feet high and weighed 64 tons, and wild elephants standing 113 feet have been recorded from Abyssinia. More attention has been given to the length and weight of the tusks, which have been taken measuring over 11 feet and weighing upwards of 230 lbs. Something has already been said of the differences between the two kinds, and by way of recapitulation it may here be mentioned that the chief points to note in the African elephant are— Larger size, Larger ears, Longer and heavier tusks, Females bearing tusks equal to those of the males, Trunk less tapered and with two ‘*fingers’’ instead of only one. CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 173 The African elephant is said by those who know both to be much fiercer and more savage than the Indian animal, which is hardly to be wondered at when we remember that the moment an African elephant is seen outside of a Government reserve it becomes a target for all and sundry, native and European alike. It is a great traveller in search of food, and its wanderings take it high above the plains and far up the green slopes of Mount Kenia. It is also a coarser feeder than the Indian kind, using one of its tusks, generally the right one, to prise up mimosa and other trees, from which it then strips twigs, leaves and bark. Its huge ears, at all times conspicuous, assume a frightful appearance when it is charging, for they then stand out at right angles to the head like the wings of some angry demon, and at such moments its trumpet- ing is nothing less than deafening. Its powers of eyesight and hearing are only moderately developed, but it has a very keen sense of smell.and must be stalked very carefully up- wind. If suddenly disturbed at close quarters, it is apt to charge before a shot is fired, and on such occasions the female is considered the more dangerous of the two. In some parts of Africa, elephants with only one tusk are not uncommon, and these are invariably the worst-tempered in the herd, per- 174 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE haps because they smart under the handicap imposed on them by the want of a second tusk, or possibly from actual pangs of toothache. Mention has been made of the fact that, in the ordinary way, elephant -shooting is no longer permitted in India, and even in Africa the Powers, waking, as is their habit, a little late to their responsibilities, are at last framing regulations to save the remnant of these splen- did animals. In some districts, however, the big game hunter may, after taking the pre- scribed licence, still enjoy the supreme excite- ment of an encounter with the greatest animal on earth, running risks that not even the most perfect rifles can ever quite eliminate, and Major V. R. Whitla sends me the following account of a ‘‘right and left’ at these animals in North-Eastern Rhodesia, from which it will be gathered that he did not get his ivory for the asking : ‘One Christmas, not long ago, I was camped near Ndombo’s village in North-Eastern Rho- desia. I had left Broken Hill, just over two thousand miles from Cape Town and at that time the terminus of the railway, early in July, and, after a very pleasant six months up country, was now on my way down to Mpika, from which spot a three weeks’ march would take me back to Broken Hill and civilisation. The heavy rains had set in on December 12, turning CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 175 every small stream into a howling torrent and so spoiling the shooting that I had decided to go back. One morning, however, saw an abrupt change in all my plans, as my tracker, a local savage named Makale, brought me word that two of his friends had seen three big bull elephants a day or two before at a place not much more than twenty miles east of where we were encamped. I confess that, just at first, I was much inclined to doubt the story, as Makale, who had been with me about a month, had proved himself not only a first-rate tracker, but also a persistent liar. The friends were, however, produced and strenuously cross- examined separately by my headman Benjamin, and their accounts agreed so accurately that there seemed no further room for doubt. ‘* The first step was to take out a new licence, costing £25, as all game licences in that dis- trict expire on December 31, and this entailed two long marches to Mpika, one of the stations in North-Eastern Rhodesia at which licences are issued by the authorities. ‘*The next thing, which proved more labori- ous, was to get across the Nyamadzi River, then in full flood, as the elephants had been sighted near a village called Kafwimbi, about twenty miles away on the other side. At other times of year this river may be forded without difficulty, but the heavy rains had swelled it to formidable proportions, and, as no dug-out was to be had locally, there was nothing for it but to build a boat for ourselves. My men set to, selecting a particular tree with thick 176 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE but flexible bark, and then removing a piece of this bark of the required length in one piece without felling the tree. The ends were then folded across and sewn together, the crevices being filled with clay, a split bamboo being sewn round the top to form a gunwale, and two or three cross-pieces being attached to stiffen the frame and lessen any tendency to collapse. Asa result of this ingenious carpen- tering, I was presently in possession of a light and watertight canoe, about 12 feet long and 3 feet broad, capable of holding six or seven men. At the first launch we found that the current was too strong to allow of either poling or paddling, but my porters soon rigged up a long rope of plaited bark, which was fastened to trees low down on either bank by a man who managed to take one end of it and swim across, and by this means we got the porters and their loads across without accident. ‘“We now had to make two marches to Kafwimbi, as the going *was bad, several streams, insignificant during the dry season, being now so big that it was found necessary to halt while trees were felled and laid across. On the second day’s march I came upon fairly fresh spoor of cow elephants, as well as fresh spoor of three rhinos, which are common in that part of the country. These, however, we did not follow, as I did not want to frighten the elephants away by firing at other game. ‘On reaching Kafwimbi’s, I interviewed the chief, who told me that some of his men had seen the spoor of a very big bull elephant not CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 177 far off the day before, and he offered to come with us next day to show me the ground. ‘‘Next morning I was called at 4 a.m., but it was raining heavily, so that I did not make a start until 7, by which time the rain had ceased, though the sky looked threatening. Up to 10, we could find no fresh tracks, but we then met two natives who, in going from one village to another, told us that they had crossed fresh tracks of three bulls only about a mile back. We set off in that direction, and easily picked up the spoor in the soft ground. Owing, however, to the quantity of rain that had fallen during the night, it was hard to say exactly how old it was. I judged it to be not more than from twelve to eighteen hours old, and well worth following up, particularly as one, at any rate, was the spoor of a very big bull, the prints of his forefeet measuring just over 21 inches from toe to heel, whilst the other two measured 18 and 184 respectively. ‘‘Owing to the water-logged state of the country, the going was bad and tiring, and much time was lost in crossing the numerous streams in our way, but the spoor was very plain and we were never at fault. After going a few miles, we came to a low bank of soft earth which bore the distinct impressions of the bodies of all three elephants, showing that they had rested there during the night or very early that morning. ‘This was a very interest- ing sight to me, as I had often been told by hunters that elephants never lie down to rest, but sleep standing or else leaning against trees, M 178 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE Yet here was undeniable evidence of their lying down, and, as a matter of fact, I had come across similar proof of this habit when tracking a solitary elephant a month earlier. ‘* After their siesta, the three bulls had moved on, feeding at intervals, as was apparent from the way in which, though always moving in one direction, the tracks kept diverging and recrossing. We stuck to the spoor of the biggest, which was very easy to follow, and kept to it until three in the afternoon, when it was evident from various signs that the ele- phants were not far away. Soon afterwards I saw an elephant standing in a comparatively clear patch about 200 yards away on our left front, and at the same moment I descried a single zebra grazing his way slowly across this patch towards the forest on the far side. We, therefore, halted immediately under cover, so as to let the zebra move on, as these animals have a most irritating habit, the moment they see the hunter, of galloping wildly round in circles, about 150 yards distant, unavoidably giving the alarm to all other wild animals in the neighbourhood, and spoiling all chance of ashot. This annoying habit is shared by the kyang, or wild donkey, of Tibet and Ladak, which has in such fashion ruined many a care- ful stalk of mine after antelope or Ovis Ammon. ‘¢Tt was fully a quarter of an hour before we deemed that the wretched zebra had got far enough into the forest to make it safe to pro- ceed, and during this trying interval the CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 179 elephant must have got slight wind of us, as he twice faced in our direction, with ears cocked and trunk extended, and finally moved slowly off, fortunately up-wind. I had, in the meantime, had ample opportunity of examining him through my Zeiss glasses, and made him out to be a bull of ordinary size with tusks of apparently about 30 lbs. each, but I could not see whether the other two were in the forest beyond. I concluded, however, that it was best to follow him, on the assumption that, even if they were not with him, he would certainly be making his way to rejoin them, and this luckily proved to be the case, for when he had gone another mile he suddenly halted in some fairly thick cover, in which I was able to make out the tails and _ hind- quarters of two others. ‘*T now made the four natives with me go back some distance and sit down, as I knew none of them well enough to trust him with a second rifle, and I preferred to advance alone, carrying my double ‘400 cordite ejector, to- wards the cover, which was straight up-wind. As I proceeded, the elephants went slowly for- ward, and on reaching the spot where they had previously stood, I found that the thick patch extended only some 50 yards farther, and that beyond it lay an open patch of some three or four acres. To my surprise I now saw, standing in this, within about 4o yards of the nearest trees, not three, but four ele- phants, one of them much bigger than the rest, and evidently the animal whose spoor I 18 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE had been following the whole day. They were halted in close order, the head and shoulders of the big one being covered from a shot by the body of one of its fellows. I therefore sat down just inside the edge of the cover and examined them carefully through my glasses, and soon made out that they were all bulls. The tusks of the big one were disappointing, and I did not estimate them at over 50 or 60 lbs. apiece. Then came a tuskless bull, the first I had seen during six months in that part of Rhodesia. Of the other two, the one that I had first sighted alone seemed to carry short tusks of about 30 lbs. each, and the fourth had longer and thinner tusks which would prob- ably weigh 40 lbs. each. ‘‘T had to wait about a quarter of an hour at the edge of the clearing before I could get a shot at the head of the biggest, but at last he faced in my direttion, and I took aim between the eye and earhole and fired. He fell to the shot, struggled half-way to his feet, and then my left barrel knocked him over again. Until I fired the second shot, the other elephants, which were standing close together, had scarcely moved; but on hearing the second report one of them turned tail and bolted, going nearly straight away from me, while the other two came at a rapid pace right for the little tree against which I was standing. I seemed to be in for a charge by the two un- wounded elephants, and the prospect was not a pleasing one, for there was not a solitary tree of sufficient size to have afforded shelter, CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 181 or one that an elephant would not have knocked down without effort. Mature reflection after- wards convinced me that the animals had never meant charging at all, but were merely panic- stricken and trying to escape, choosing my direction by mere coincidence. Had they really meant mischief, they would have come on screaming and with trunks. curled in the air. They did neither, but came with trunks down and without uttering a sound. All the same, there was no time for these comforting reflec- tions at the moment, for in a very few seconds they were almost on top of me, leaving me barely time to reload one barrel of my rifle, the ejector of which fortunately worked well. I then fired at the chest of the leading bull, the one with the long, thin tusks, with the idea of turning him on one side. The shot was a lucky one, as it went through the trunk and lodged at the juncture of chest and neck. On firing, I jumped on one side, but quite un- necessarily as it proved, for on being hit he stumbled to his knees, then, immediately re- covering himself, went off faster than ever, followed, to my intense relief, by the tuskless one. A little later we found him stone dead about 150 yards from the spot, and I afterwards found that, when hit, he had been within ten paces of me! ‘‘It was too late to cut out the tusks that evening, as we were a long way from camp, which I reached, very wet and tired, about seven in the evening, having covered in all some twenty-five miles, much of it through 182 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE heavy mud. Next morning, my porters, sixty in number, accompanied by practically all the villagers, marched the ten or eleven miles and proceeded to cut up the elephants. I did not accompany them on this occasion, knowing from experience what a disgusting spectacle it would be, and confident also that my head- man would see the tusks cut out without injury. They were all away till the following morning, when they straggled back to camp with the tusks and meat. The tusks were as follows :— Length. Girth. Weight. Big Elephant—Right tusk . 5 ft. 8} in. 16}in. 52 lbs. Left ,, . 4.8 in. 162m. 49 Ibs. Small _,, Right ,, . 5 ft. 1 in. 4154in. 36 Ibs. Left: °: 302-308 fh © 40. 155 I0.- 97 Tos. ‘*It must be confessed that the tusks of the big elephant were disappointing, as the animal was an uncommonly big one, and, judging from the appearance of his skin, of great age. They had evidently been broken off at some period, and the left one, more particularly, was very short. On cutting him up, the men found two native bullets of hammered iron in him.” The concluding remark in Major Whitla’s interesting story bears out what was said on an earlier page. Few elephants attain any great age without having been shot at and wounded, and these encounters doubtless have their effect on the victim’s temper. CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 183 Only one kind of African elephant has hitherto been generally known, but a year or two ago the Zast African Standard published particulars of a somewhat mysterious ‘‘ water- elephant,” as it was called, discovered by a Frenchman in a lake in the Congo. It seems to be of smaller build than the ordinary kind, with short ears and no tusks. Further evi- dence, however, seems desirable before taking this creature very seriously, though, in view of the recent discovery of the okapi, it is unsafe to predict that Africa may not have other sur- prises in store. RHINOCEROS There are—perhaps it would be more accu- rate to say there were—two kinds of African rhinoceros. The white, or square-mouthed kind, also named after Burchell, is all but extinct, and only the black kind survives in any numbers in the wild state. As a matter of fact, the ‘‘ white” rhinoceros of Africa no more deserves its name than the ‘‘white”’ elephant of Burma, for it is grey, and the same may be said of the ‘‘black”’ kind. Each of them carries two horns on the snout. In the square-mouthed rhinoceros the fore-horn has been known to measure over 62 in., whereas the longest recorded fore-horn in the black rhinoceros was only 44 in. In- 184 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE deed, it is only in South and East Africa that it has horns of even that length. The second horn in both kinds is always smaller and grows straight, whereas the other is curved, usually backward, though in some specimens it points forward. No doubt the animal knows how to turn it to account, whichever way it grows, and, as has been mentioned above, the African rhinoceros uses the horn for tossing its enemy, whereas the Indian fights chiefly with its teeth. The rare ‘‘white” rhinoceros is the taller and heavier beast of the two, standing a little over 6 ft. at the shoulder, whereas the largest known black rhinoceros would be _ several inches shorter. The most conspicuous differ- ence between the two, however, is in neither size nor colouring, but in the shape of the upper lip, a sure cluie to the food preferred by the animal. In the black, the upper lip over- hangs the lower like a finger. In other words, the animal is ‘‘prehensile-lipped,” or able to pick leaves off bushes, browsing on acacia and other low trees within its reach. Burchell’s rhinoceros, on the other hand, has a square mouth and is a grazing animal, living out on the open plains, and not in the forests which are the home of the other. Its day is done. Its old haunts know it no more, and even Selous, greatest of living hunters, would be puzzled to find one to-day in the length and ” “THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS USES ITS HORN FOR TOSSING ITS ENEMY. CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 185 breadth of South Africa. It must be looked for in East Africa, and should be strictly pre- served. Unfortunately, Mr. Roosevelt and his son shot nine between them. No one can fairly blame these American sportsmen for availing themselves of the invitation to shoot all manner of game in British territory, but let us hope that those nine may be the last to fal] to the rifle for many a long year. The black rhinoceros may still be described as fairly plentiful as far north as Abyssinia. Those who have shot and watched these animals in the two continents where they are still found (time was, before the dawn of the period we call history, when they roamed over Europe) are unanimous as to their character, describing them as_ stupid, short-sighted, blundering brutes, much given to attacks of nerves, easily panic-stricken, and at such moments apt to charge blindly the moment they get wind of the hunter, not so much in malice as for fear of being surrounded. There will always be differences of opinion about the character of the lion and tiger, but no such uncertainty seems to invest that of the rhi- noceros. Fortunately its eyesight is so poor that its charge can easily be avoided at the last moment. Much nonsense has been written about the thickness of the animal’s hide, which has been 186 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE described as capable of turning bullets even at short range, and it may be that these fables date from the days of primitive guns and in- sufficient charges of powder, which may have had no more effect on these thick-skinned animals than a peashooter on a pig. Modern ammunition, however, makes short work of the rhinoceros; moreover, apart from such vulnerability, we must remember that its hide cannot even withstand the attacks of the tsetse- fly, which feeds greedily on its blood. It is, nevertheless, an immensely powerful animal, and few others are so hard to kill ; for it dies so slowly that very often, when one is seemingly dead from spear or bullet wounds, it will rally and either charge the enemy or gallop away out of reach. The rhinoceros is said to be irresistibly attracted by fire. A creature of such bulk hardly seems comparable to a moth flying into the candle-flame, but it is a fact that, attracted in some unaccountable fashion, the rhinoceros sometimes charges right into a camp fire. Elephants have a similar habit of trampling on fires, with the result that they occasionally spread the embers, and have even been known in this way to set fire to native villages. CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 187 HIPPOPOTAMUS The hippopotamus is one of those few really ugly beasts in Nature which, if we did not know it to be real, we might think of as a creature seen only in nightmares. When we come to think of it, there are not very many quadrupeds at all events so disgusting to look at. The wart-hog is another, and the Tas- manian devil a third. In its way, however, the hippopotamus is without a rival, since not only is its face, particularly with the jaws open, among the most uncouth in all creation, but, seeing that it weighs, when full-grown, three or four tons, and that its length and girth are about the same, or approximately twelve feet, it has also the most ungainly figure in existence, being, in fact, three times as long as it is high. The hide is devoid of hair and studded with warts. The eyes are small, as are also the ears, which stand erect. Our name for the animal means ‘‘ river-horse,” and the Germans, with their usual passion for detail, call it by a word meaning ‘‘ Nile-horse” ; yet it is about as unlike a horse as any creature well could be. There is a much smaller kind in West Africa, a fairy-like creature weighing only three or four hundredweight, and little seems to be known of its habits. The larger species is no longer to be found in South Africa, where it 188 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE was common in the old days, but still exists in the lakes and rivers of Central Africa, where tourists are unfortunately permitted to shoot it without making the least attempt to recover the body. This wickedness should be strictly forbidden by the captains of steamers on the Upper Nile, whether on Government boats or not. In view of the reception the hippopotamus meets with on coming to the surface, it is not surprising to learn that it spends most of its existence underwater, being able to remain below for five or ten minutes and actually walking on the bed of the river. A man standing on the edge of a swimming-bath with a loaded gun would soon teach even the most reluctant pupil to swim under water, and refer- ence was made on an earlier page to the un- fortunate effect which such treatment has had on the once-serene temper of these water- babies. I have seen it suggested by apologists of the tourist that this is also the work of the trap with which the natives of the Congo and Zambesi regions catch these creatures, a device which, while it would be unpardonably cruel in the hands of white men with firearms, is quite legitimate for unarmed blacks who have to keep themselves from starvation as_ best they can. This trap is constructed as follows : An immense block of wood, into the heavier end of which is welded a long metal harpoon, CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 189 is hung from a tree over a spot on the bank where these animals are known to be in the habit of coming ashore. A long line, with a buoy at the end, is also tied to the harpoon and a rope is fastened across the path so that the animal, forcing its way past the obstacle, automatically releases the weighted harpoon, which falls on its back and pierces the hide. The unfortunate creature, now in great pain, dashes back into the water and makes frantic but futile efforts to rid itself of the instrument of torture, which, however, sticks fast, like a banderilla in a bull. As its movements under water are betrayed by the tell-tale buoy, it has no chance of escaping from its enemies, who follow in their canoes, thrusting a spear into it whenever it comes up to breathe. Then the end comes, and the great carcase is cut up and divided among the hungry hunters. It is a horrible, if necessary, business, but I do not believe that the practice has spoilt the temper of a single hippopotamus, for the simple reason that the victim never escapes alive. The stray bullet of the tourist is quite another matter, for it wounds the poor beast just enough to madden itand no more. The ‘‘sportsman” then goes on his way, and one more furious hippopotamus is added to the long list of those thirsting to avenge themselves on the tyrant man. The hippopotamus feeds chiefly on the water- 190 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE plants of its native river or lake, but it also clambers on shore and makes extensive raids on any cultivated land in the neighbourhood, making short work of any plantation in its path and trampling underfoot what it does not eat. Crops over which a hippopotamus has wandered are of no great value that season. Farmers at home, who cry out now and then when any follower of hounds may “‘accidentally”’ cut off a corner of a field, should try a hippo- potamus or two. The hippopotamus at the Zoo looks peaceful enough, even when it opens its fearful mouth for buns and biscuits, but it shows a nasty temper at times. I remember an occasion on which it, or its predecessor, killed a terrier that had got into its enclosure. Whether it actually ate the dog, I forget; but if its appetite is as accommodating as that of its cousin the pig, there is no reason why it should not have done so. GIRAFFE AND ZEBRA The extraordinary resources of Africa as a storehouse of strange and interesting wild animals could hardly be more strikingly illustrated than by the fact that it is the only continent producing at once the hippopotamus and the giraffe, the one modelled on a baggage- van, the other an Eiffel Tower of an animal CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 191 and incomparably the most graceful of all big game. The height of the giraffe always as- tonishes those who see it for the first time, and I always remember the amusing fascination which one at the Zoo had for some Moors whom I once showed round the Gardens, for although natives of the same continent, they had never even suspected the existence of a creature half again as tall as the biggest elephant, or eighteen feet from the ground to the tips of its make-believe horns. The giraffe is, in fact, one of those animals that could never be mistaken for any other, with its brown- splotched skin covering the little imitation horns, the long face and melting eyes, the black tongue, slender legs, and insignificant tail. It is with wild animals as with human beings. Some are full of character, while others are just negative, and on the whole the latter have the happiest time of it. The large eyes of the giraffe, like those of some fishes which inhabit the abysmal gloom of the deep sea, suggest keen eyesight, and may be contrasted with the large and erect ears of the little fennec which dwells in the same region. Keen eyesight would be useless to so short an animal as the fennec, and, on the other hand, a creature with its nose so far from the ground as the giraffe has little use for highly developed powers of scent, though 192 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE the giraffe is by no means deficient in that sense. Still, it always sees the enemy first. It is usual to post notices in menageries requesting that no food be given to the giraffes. This is done at our own Zoo. It is certain that the authorities do not discourage the practice without good reason, for, so long as the recipients of such gifts do not suffer, there is no objection to the public amusing itself and at the same time paying some of the food-bill. The giraffe, however, is a delicate and costly animal, and care has to be taken with its digestion. At the same time it is a very fastidious creature, feeding in captivity on the best clover hay, with an occasional onion, bunch of tares, or lump of sugar. I have been told that one, at any rate, was known to refuse an apple out of which its keeper had taken a bite. Without taking the responsibility of this reflection on the keeper's teeth, I should think it very likely that a dis- criminating giraffe might take exception to the taint of tobacco. At any rate, it is to be hoped that, even on Bank Holidays, visitors will respect the notice and keep their buns and nuts for less delicate stomachs, as the loss of a giraffe is a very serious item in the year’s accounts. Out on the rolling veldt, or in the cooler glades of the African forest, the giraffe is a . «= . +. SO AS TO BREAK THE LION'S JAW . . . CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 193 very different personality from the sluggish, fearless animals in the paddock at the Zoo. It travels far and wide in search of mimosa leaves, its favourite food, reaching as far as it can and stripping the branches with its long tongue, so that trees pollarded in this fashion to a kind of high-water mark are a common feature of giraffe country. The giraffe is fragile in appearance and timid by nature, yet, when suddenly attacked by a lion, it some- times manages to kick with such terrific force, with hind or fore feet, as to break the lion’s jaw. More often, no doubt, the lion that manages to get close enough for a spring must kill and eat his prey, but such retribution has been known to fall on the tyrant more than once. When fighting among themselves, half in play, or at any rate without intent to do any very serious damage, giraffes often butt with their heads and fence with their false horns, which are occasionally damaged in the fray. The giraffe’s most effective weapon is the fore- leg, with which it chops downwards. John Stromboom, a well-known trader round Lake Ngami many years ago, was, Mr. Bryden tells me, nearly killed by a wounded giraffe in this way. He had ridden up to it when it sud- denly reared on end and struck at him with both forelegs, missing by only a matter of inches. Had the blows got home, both he N 194 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE and his horse would have been done for, as the force of such strokes from an animal that weighs nearly a ton must be immense. Unless there is urgent need for meat, these beautiful and inoffensive animals should never be shot. There is no trophy even to justify such ‘‘sport,” for the so-called horns are little better than knobs under the skin, and shoot- ing a giraffe is so devoid of risk as to have little savour for the true sportsman. During Mr. Roosevelt’s African trip, a cow giraffe even showed so little fear of the party that several of them were able to get up to within fifteen feet and pelt her with sticks and stones, at which she walked slowly away. That, surely, is not the sort of animal to shoot for sport! True, this particular cow was spared, but nine other giraffes were shot by members of the party. Why? If giraffes must be killed, as they must, no doubt, at times for meat, why not hunt them in the splendid manner of the Arab sword- hunters, killing them with cold steel after they have had a good run for their lives? Readers of Sir Samuel Baker’s inspiring book on the Nile Tributaries of Abyssinia will recall the prowess of the Agagzr, or sword-hunters, of the Hamran tribe of Arabs. Alas, the mighty are fallen! This once great tribe has, in the course of two generations, been all but exter- CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 195 minated in the tribal warfare of Mahdiism and in border forays with the Abyssinians, and even as far back as 1899, when the benefits of British protection reached the Eastern Sudan, only one family of the Hamran clan had out- lived the terrible era of fire and sword, and was dragging out its existence in the neigh- bourhood of Gedaref. It is now, however, well known that the Agar, or sword-hunter, was not the monopoly of the Hamran tribe, but an institution in most of the noble, horse- riding Arab clans east of the White Nile, while to the west of that river, in Kordofan and south of Darfur, there are also mounted hunters, who use the sword less than the spade-bladed stabbing spear called £zbdzs. These intrepid sword-hunters, whose tactics contrast curiously with those of the cautious stalker armed with the newest pattern of rifle, use their cold steel on lion, elephant, or rhinoceros indiscrimi- nately. They usually hunt in parties of three, one acting as decoy and galloping in front of the quarry, while the other two gallop behind. One of these then dismounts, when going full speed, and hamstrings the animal on foot, using the sword double-handed, and it is then comparatively easy to finish even an elephant off, so helpless is it after the stroke. For lions they have another stroke that cuts clean through the spine. The giraffe, on the 196 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE other hand, is hamstrung from the saddle by a cut delivered forwards and downwards, sword and arm in line, a few inches above the animal’s near hind hock. It is well known that in battle the Arab never loses a chance of hamstringing the enemy’s horses and camels. In the mélée he always strives to detach his adversary’s bridle and to fell the horse with a cut between its ears. In fact, many of the Dervish horses captured at the Battle of Firket, in 1896, were found to have lost their ears in Arab warfare, and this mutilation had clearly been the work of the sword-cutting at the bridle headstall, to protect which some horses wore head armour. The truly daring and magnificent sport of the sword-hunter has without a doubt declined from various Causes, among which may be reckoned the game laws promulgated of late years in the Sudan, as well as the large number of firearms, licensed or otherwise, now in use throughout that. region. Yet there are men still living who, armed only with cold steel, have laid low the African elephant, and, whatever regret may be felt at seeing so huge an animal destroyed in any circumstances, much of the reproach is removed when it is conquered with such weapons. The ability to keep calm and collected in face of great danger is commonly claimed by some nations of Northern Europe and America as their birthright, but those CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 197 know better the equality of human nature under all skies who have shared the dangers and hardships of hunting wild beasts in the company of men of such mettle as the Arab, the Sikh, or the Indian Mussulman. Among the hardest and most skilful mounted hunters in the Eastern Sudan are some of the loyal Abu Ref tribe, as well as the fanatical Kinana of Sheikh Fadl el Moula and the Beni Hussein clan. In addition to these, there are also, in the big game grounds of the south-west, the Rizeigat of Ahmed Wad Egeil, the Humr, the Habbaniya, and some Bagara clans. The cutting power of the straight, two-edged, cross-hilted sword of these Arab hunters is amazing. In the hands of a powerful and skilled swordsman, such a weapon is capable of penetrating the hide and severing the muscle of the largest elephant, and Ahmet Wad Idris, a veteran hunter of the Beni Hussein, who formerly lived at Singa and who, I believe, accompanied Count Joseph Potocki on his expedition in the Eastern Sudan, was actually known to have cut off the hind leg of a giraffe above the hock at a single blow, a feat that might almost be deemed impossible. There was another mighty hunter of the kind, one Ramadan, son of Sheikh Abu Shetal of Roseires, who hunted the wild buffalo with hound and spear, harpooned the hippopotamus, 1988 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE and, without firearms of any sort, slew the lion, elephant, and every kind of dangerous game in his country. This is sport indeed, and beside it our civilised pastime of shooting wild beasts with long-range rifles makes tame read- ing. At the same time, it must be borne in mind that these wild Arabs are brought up to such work, that their faith makes them more indifferent to death and pain than the men of other creeds, and that, even among them, only a few picked men are equal to these feats. Comparatively few Englishmen have taken part in these tribal hunting expeditions, but I am indebted to one of the few, a cavalry officer, for a most interesting account of a giraffe hunt, which is, however, related in these pages for the sake of a remarkable epi- sode of peculiar interest to those who love horses. It proves beyond doubt that the animal, a high-caste Arabian and the property of the sportsman who sent me the story, first knew that it had incurred blame and then sought to redeem its character for courage, which it eventually did. This is the story in his own words :— ‘It was in the year 1900 that a small party set out from Fakki Mohammed Osman, on the River Dinder, the principal affluent of the Blue Nile, to hunt big game with spear and CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS gg sword. In the time of those well-loved Governors of the Sudan, Baker and Gordon, both banks of the Dinder were lined with a continuous succession of villages, the teeming population of which cultivated broad acres of cotton, corn, and the oil-bearing sesame. These nations had, however, followed the arts of peace, neglecting what Bacon calls ‘the most certain oracle of time,’ infected with the canker of prosperity, and blind to the necessity of armed combination. As a result, the entire riverine population was wiped out within a few years, so that the acacia stretched its gaunt arms over the ashes of their villages, and the wild elephant trampled underfoot the last grue- some evidences of their downfall. As, more- over, the laws of Mahdiism precluded the use of firearms in hunting, there was a marked increase of wild animals in the Sudan between 1883 and 1898, and it was here, in the de- populated area reclaimed by the wilderness, that the sword-hunters found their opportunity. **On the first day out, four wart-hog boars were the reward of an early start. On the second day, the party entered the elephant country and bivouacked, with no other water available than that which was carried in skins on the backs of two camels. Next morning, leaving the camels and a spare horse in bivouac, the hunters set out, leading their horses. There were Ahmet, the veteran lightweight of the Beni Hussein tribe, with his black Galla pony, ‘Shansun’; then an Arab sheikh, with his smart grey, ‘Bishtena’; next, two Agagzr, and myself 200 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE with a favourite high-caste chestnut Arabian horse called ‘Bashom’ (i.e. the fox); and, lastly, two footmen carrying waterskins. We had gone an hour from camp without finding any fresh traces of elephant, so we took up the tracks of three giraffe that crossed the line at right angles. The forest consisted mainly of gum-bearing acacias, each about thirty feet high, and at every mile or two we would pass a watercourse, its lower level marked by the luxuriant verdure of large tamarind, ebony and adansonia trees; and the first rains, early in June, had carpeted the undulating slopes of hard loam with springy turf and wild flowers. “¢ After an hour’s tracking at quickened pace, during which we passed fresh tracks of other feeding giraffe, Ahmet gave the signal by springing into the saddle, and ‘Bashom’ pricked up his ears as three frightened giraffes, which, though fully five hundred yards away, had, as usual, seen the hunters before them- selves being sighted, began striding towards each other and then broke away to the left at a swinging canter. The riders, however, had a good start, and the horses were soon skimming over the yielding ground as if they were on a racecourse. One cow led away left- handed and was unsuccessfully ridden by the sheikh. The two larger animals, a light tawny cow and an unusually big bull with conspicu- ously black tessellated markings, bore straight on abreast. The ground now became harder and was covered with long dead grass, as well as with occasional low thorns that explained CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 201 the pieces of leather tied over the knees and thighs of the Agagzr. And now it was that ‘Bashom,’ having outdistanced the barb horses of the rest, had drawn within five yards of the bull’s near hind leg, when a powerful backward kick from that limb gave his rider a useful hint to ride wide that he was prompt to act on. The sword was now unsheathed from its place under the near flap of the saddle, but the giraffe, after delivering other backward kicks just out of reach of the sword-blade, managed to forge ahead. It was enabled to do so by the altered nature of the ground, which was now of that heavy black mould, intersected in every direction by fissures, which the Arabs call mushkok, and which is not unlike the black cotton soil of India. This kind of going, while suited to the large feet of the camel or giraffe, is very liable to bring a horse down unless he is extended at a free gallop. For this reason ‘Bashom’ was unable to get abreast of the giraffe’s hock, the point of which is more than four feet from the heel. So the giraffe drew ahead and vanished in the forest. The Agagzr now came up from behind and unsaddled their horses, and when, in half an hour, the party was joined by the two foot- men, who had followed on their tracks, man and beast drank with relish, though sparingly. The veterans now surveyed the Arabian horse and sadly gave it as their conviction that his failure to close with his first giraffe was due to timidity. He might, they admitted, be gifted with a surprising turn of speed, but he lacked 202 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE spirit; and they even went as far as to say that his cowardice would make him not only useless, but a source of danger, if he were again allowed to accompany the Agagzr. ‘““Now ‘Bashom,’ in common with most high-caste Arabians, possessed what Arabs call the ‘human eye,’ the type of eye, that is, with white surrounding the dark pupil. Those who know and love horses and dogs are familiar with this type of eye. It is the eye that smiles, that listens, that mourns. At this appalling insult from the Agagzr, ‘Bashom’s’ eye was as if fired with understanding. He, the com- rade of Arabs from his foalhood, knew the sting of their taunt, and for a moment there was reason in his glance. Read the sequel. ‘*That same afternoon the hunters once more took up the tracks of the giraffes, and the camp was moved. On the advice of Ahmet, I now rode my second horse, and ‘ Bashom’ brought up the rear with the camels and Agagir, some two hundred yards behind. The party had just crossed a valley, when suddenly a giraffe was seen stalking across the front, not two hundred yards ahead. It took the beast an appreciable time to turn, and the two horsemen were riding it before it was in its stride. But, in less time than it takes to tell, there was a third in the race, coming up from behind. In a few strides, ‘Bashom’ was alongside his master. In vain the Hamran Arab who rode him tried to steady him. In negotiating a watercourse, the man was de- posited on the ground, and ‘ Bashom,’ taking CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 203 his own line, headed straight for the giraffe, brushing through the thorns as if they were bullfinches, and taking every fallen tree-trunk in his stride. A new element was now intro- duced into this extraordinary chase in the shape of four hartebeest, of dark chestnut colour, which, startled out of a patch of scrub by the fugitive giraffe, joined in the procession until the strong running of the riderless Arabian scattered them to right and left. Ahmet, once more to the fore, now feared that the runaway might cross him at the critical moment and made one or two futile cuts with his hide-whip in the hope of turning the animal from his course ; but ‘ Bashom,’ with a snort of defiance, rushed headlong at the giraffe as if he meant to ride it off to the right from the near side. The terrified creature did, in fact, swerve to the right, but, in so doing, managed to deliver a knock-down blow with its near hind leg, which came home on the shoulder with such effect that poor ‘ Bashom’ turned over on his back as if he had been shot. Yet he had achieved his object, for the giraffe’s turn to the right undoubtedly sealed its fate. It was overtaken, the sword flashed from its scabbard, and a sweeping blow from the blade severed the hamstring, while a simultaneous twist to the left saved ‘ Blue Fire’ from being crushed as the bull toppled over. As the hunters dis- mounted to give the coup de grace, a sorry object trotted past the fallen foe. It was ‘ Bashom,’ dead lame, covered with mud, and with the saddle turned round on his left flank, 204 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE but he was proud in the knowledge that he had shown his mettle and retrieved his reputa- tion. ‘‘Twelve years are gone, and ‘ Bashom’ has a happy home in the green fields of Essex, enjoying the rest that he earned so well in those strenuous days. It may be that, now and again, as his ‘human eye’ gleams with gratitude to his benefactress, he recalls the fierce scent of the battle-smoke and the flash of the sword.” The zebra, another exclusively African type, is a wild horse in a tiger’s skin, or as such, at any rate, it impresses all who see it for the first time. Time was, not long ago, when Africa produced four different kinds of zebra. But the Boers (being as fond of zebra meat as lions are) ex- terminated one of these knownas the quagga, the last survivor dying in captivity in 1883, so that (as in the case of the Little Nigger Boys) there are now only three. One, the mountain zebra, is also called the common zebra, though, as a matter of fact, it is very scarce, being found only in the high mountains of Cape Colony, where it is strictly preserved. Else it might have gone the way of the quagga. The two others are named after Burchell and Grévy. The last named, which has its home in Abyssinia, is also very rare, and it was said at the time that the market value of a fine pair A RARE ANTELOPE. The Bongo is the largest of the West African bushbucks. Little is known of its habits, save that the animal lives in the forest and is nocturnal. al a a Mc ee CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 205 presented to Queen Victoria by Menelik could not have been less than £1000. Of the domes- tication of the zebra, which has never been very successful, more is said in another chapter. I know of one that was driven in a trap by a lady living near Abergavenny, and a more famous team was that belonging to Mr. Lionel Rothschild ; but the zebra in harness is a prob- lem that needs patience. Sportsmen shoot zebras only, as a rule, when their camp boys want meat, as the animal’s flesh, though. un- appreciated by Europeans, is a delicacy to the negro, who is also an admirer of crocodiles’ eggs and buzzards. Apart from this occasional necessity, the zebra interests the sportsman chiefly on account of its annoying habit of galloping wildly round him when he is stalk- ing better game and thereby giving the alarm to all and sundry, spoiling many a good shot by its eccentric behaviour. ANTELOPES The antelopes, which carry solid horns, are regarded in the museum as furnishing a link between the goats and oxen, and are, in fact, related to both groups, a cousinship best appreciated when we look at the gnu, or wildebeest, which is much more like an ox than an antelope. The variety and importance 206 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE of Africa’s antelopes have already been referred to. Asia has half a dozen of no great size, and the two which occur in America are eccentric rather than attractive; but Africa _ has close on a hundred different kinds, ranging in size from the great eland, which may weigh two thousand pounds, down to the tiny blue- buck and dik-dik, which may be weighed in ounces. In the great hunting days of such pioneers as Roualeyn Gordon Cumming and Cornwallis Harris, vast herds of antelopes blackened the veldt, troops of them wheel- ing and galloping over the emerald-green of the plains with an effect that those who know the lifelessness of those scenes nowadays find it hard to believe. They are gone now, and their haunts have passed to the Afrikander. Yet the commoner kinds are still abundant in tracts like the Kalahari, where they can always enjoy comparative immunity from man. The horns of these beautiful animals furnish most of the attractive trophies of shzkar, and the corridors and staircases of more than one London club, and notably of one in St. James’s Square, absolutely bristle with horns of every type, including the straight, spiral horns of the eland, the sweeping weapons of the beisa and gemsbok, the magnificent curves of the roan and sable, the V-shaped crown of the hartebeest, and many others. There is also CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 207 much character in the faces of these antelopes, and it would be difficult to confuse the pied black and white countenance of the gemsbok, the mournful face of the hartebeest, and the fringed forehead of the addax. Naturalists were long exercised by the apparent anomaly of so magnificent an animal as the eland thriving in an all but waterless waste like the Kalahari, which even smaller kinds seemed to avoid. It was Selous who, with his usual genius for getting information out of the natives, who for the most part are either reticent or misleading, found that the Kalahari produces not only water-melons and a bulb that is full of moisture, but also a certain bush, the leaves of which form the eland’s favourite food. Even the smallest antelopes, though feeble-looking little creatures, sometimes show wonderful courage and endurance; and Sir Godfrey Lagden tells me that he has known even the little steenbok and duiker draw hounds away from their young and sacrifice themselves so as to save the family; and he once saw a mountain rhebok, with one leg broken, get away on the other three, and actually escape from a pack of dogs in hot pursuit. The most grotesque of all the antelopes are the gnus, or wildebeests. Of the two kinds, one has a black tail and the other a white. To anyone unfamiliar with their identity they 208 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE suggest wild oxen out of drawing, and their habits are as strange as their appearance. Troops of them come prancing and curveting about trek waggons and caravans in a manner that would alarm anyone unaccustomed to their ways, as there is something ferocious in the aspect of their bristling faces and thick manes, while their comic appearance is en- hanced by the bushy tail and slender legs. As a matter of fact, though less formidable than they appear, these animals are anything but sweet-tempered in captivity, and their keepers in menageries generally learn to treat them with distant respect. That antelopes, as, in fact, most wild game, rely for protection on scent rather than on either eyesight or hearing is generally recog- nised, though the theory is accepted by the majority of sportsmen that animals living on the open plains depend on their sight more than those inhabiting jungle, where they would be warned of the enemy’s approach by getting wind of him or by hearing the crackle of the undergrowth. That even creatures in the open, however, smell the enemy rather than see it is strikingly demonstrated by a very interesting episode recently communicated to The Field by Mr. Reginald Sharpe. Mr. Sharpe was watching a herd of reedbuck, about twelve in number, in an open glade near CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 209 the Lujenda River, in Portuguese Nyasaland, when he saw a lion walking towards them up-wind without the slightest attempt at con- cealment. ‘Though the lion passed within ten or twelve yards of one of the bucks, and in full view, this animal, like the rest of the herd, merely stared at the intruder, but made no attempt to get away and showed no sign of alarm. Then the lion went on his way along a dry watercourse, disappearing from view. By now, however, the wind was blowing from him to the antelopes, which immediately dashed away to safety. From this curious sequel Mr. Sharpe reasonably concludes that they did not recognise the lion as a dangerous animal until they got wind of him. BUFFALO The Cape buffalo, though rather smaller than the Indian ‘‘bison,”’ is, if anything, even more dangerous when wounded, so that with sportsmen who prefer a little give and take in such encounters it is a great favourite. Un- fortunately, much of the best buffalo country, which lies on the east coast round the mouth of the Zambesi, is ‘‘fly” country, and very unhealthy besides, so that sportsmen can shoot there only in the autumn. On the other hand, the drawbacks of the climate act as a more O 210 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE effectual protection of the buffalo than any game laws. Often the buffalo gives more than he gets, and, as will be related in a later chap- ter, more than one sportsman has been killed by these animals. An old bull buffalo is black and hairless, but the younger males are red. The ears are large and hairy, and the horns are wide and massive, with a helmet, or boss, protecting the forehead between. The largest known buffalo measured g ft. without the tail and stood over 44 ft. at the shoulder. The horns measured 53 in. round the curve and nearly 48 in. from tip to tip. But such figures are quite exceptional. Like other wild oxen, the African buffalo is fond of wallowing in water and of plastering its body with mud as protection against the bite of the tsetse-fly, which is said to derive from this source the parasite of the dreaded disease called rinderpest, which infects the tame herds and ruins the farmers, who, in conse- quence, clamour for the extermination of buffalo in their district. As one of the tsetse-flies also conveys the microbe of sleeping-sickness, an even graver plea has been raised for the destruc- tion of the buffalo and other big game. Opinions on the subject differ considerably, even among those qualified to write of it. Selous regards the buffalo and tsetse-fly as inseparable. Others, on the other hand, have CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 211 gone so far as to declare that these flies, like mosquitoes, are only bloodsuckers by prefer- ence, and that, when unable to drink blood, they readily feed on vegetable juices. For this remarkable assertion there seems to be too little evidence, but there is, at any rate, some reason for thinking that these water-haunting insects may exist on the blood of cormorants, crocodiles, and other neighbours that share their haunts, without being in any way depen- dent on the buffalo. If this can be demon- strated, then it is obviously futile to hope that the extermination of the buffalo would have the desired effect of freeing Africa from the tsetse-fly, and, short of such result, the total suppression of so fine an animal would be a matter for regret. ; A story is told of an encounter between a Belgian sportsman in the Congo and a solitary old male buffalo, which reads less like a hunt- ing incident than an episode from the Spanish bull-ring. It seems that the Belgian had fired at the buffalo and missed it. His native carrier chose that particular moment (not a bad one) to bolt with the other gun and all the cartridges. The bull chose the same moment to charge. Most men of ordinary temperament would have made for the nearest tree; but the brave Belgian, scorning to turn his back on the foe, preferred to catch the buffalo by the horns and 212 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE pull it to the ground, where he seems to have held it till his followers ran up and put an end to it. As the animal probably weighed five or six hundredweight, those may believe the story who like. No wonder Cesar calls the Belgians ‘very brave” ! WILD SHEEP AND WART-HOG Allusion has already been made to Africa’s one wild sheep. Richer in antelopes than the rest of the world, it has but this single insig- nificant mountain sheep, the aoudad (wrongly called ‘‘moufflon”’) of the Atlas Mountains. This animal, which is much more like a goat than a sheep, has long reddish hair, black in- curved horns, measuring about 25 inches over the curve, and a regular bib and apron round its neck, and it stands a little over 3 feet at the shoulder. It is one of the sportsman’s disappointments. Common in almost every Zoo, from Berlin to Bronx, its quest in its native hills is like that of a needle in a haystack. I write feelingly on the subject, for I have not yet forgotten a hot summer thirteen years ago in which I clambered nearly 6000 feet above sea-level in its tracks and found no more than I might have looked for on the beach at Mogador. I am told that the high Algerian Tell is a more likely region CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 213 to seek it in, and hope that this may be the case ; but I shall not pursue it again. I should, in fact, as soon expect to come across the wild elephants that used to walk along the beach near Tangier in the time of Hanno the Car- thagenian. Yet I could not have been far from the haunts of the aoudad, for a native guide pointed to a high peak, near the Castle of Gundafi, from which, he told me, a severe snowstorm had once driven a flock to take refuge in an outhouse, where, half-starved and frozen, they were presently secured by the Kaid’s men and held captive. In fact, few wild animals are more easily tamed. Of wild pigs, the most remarkable in Africa is the wart-hog, which, with its enormous flattened head, warty face, and great tusks in both jaws, is certainly the ugliest pig on earth. Young wart-hogs are less grotesque and more graceful than their parents, yet even they are not beautiful. The wart-hog stands about 30 inches at the shoulder, and the tusks would measure, in a large specimen, 25 inches. The wart-hog is not as savage as it looks, lacking the pluck of the wild boar, though not hesitating to charge dogs, which stand a poor chance against a double array of tusks. Per- haps the trick which most disconcerts sports- men unused to it is that of bolting out of its burrow head over heels, looking as if it were 214 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE charging backwards. This is very amusing to read of, but less satisfactory when the perform- ance is witnessed by someone standing over the burrow, who is apt to find that these gym- nastics bring the wart-hog’s tusks disagreeably near his own shins. CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 215 3. CANADA AND SOUTH AMERICA The countries in the New World of chief interest to Englishmen seeking a career abroad are first Canada, and then British Guiana and neighbouring countries of South America. To the sportsman, on the other hand, it is Canada, and more particularly the western section of it known as British Columbia, which constitutes one of the most wonderful summer playgrounds for trout-fishing and winter playgrounds for big- game shooting in all the world. There is sport also, however, in the eastern provinces. The salmon rivers of Newfoundland, New Bruns- wick, and Quebec have a reputation unrivalled by even those of Scotland or Norway, and the caribou of Newfoundland, with moose and deer in New Brunswick, also attract numbers of sportsmen every autumn. ‘Those who go for the winter shooting, and not for the fishing in July, must, no doubt, face the rigours of a Canadian winter, but they are, at any rate, free from the terrible flies which make life all but unbearable in the backwoods down to the end of July. As the salmon-fishing of the Resti- gouche and other famous rivers of the North Shore ends by the middle of August, it is im- possible to keep clear of the black fly, which, 216 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE with the midge and mosquito, is an even worse pest in Newfoundland. British Columbia has, thanks to the in- accessible sanctuaries high up in the Rocky Mountains, become the last refuge of many of the finest North American animals, and there the grizzly bear, wapiti, and bighorn still hold out against the rifle and other resources of a greedy civilisation, their survival being en- couraged by the Canadian Government, as well as by the provincial game wardens, who do all they can to punish poachers and to regulate the destruction of the wild game. The Canadian National Park at Banff, of which something is said in the concluding chapter of the book, is a model for all such establish- ments, and reflects the greatest credit on Canadians in general and on those responsible for its control in particular. OXEN, SHEEP AND GOATS The musk ox is the nearest Canadian relative of the bison, or buffalo, and the latter, existing as it does only under protection, is more appropriately referred to elsewhere. The musk ox is a native of the dreary Barren Grounds and the desolate shores of the Great Slave Lake. This wild ox of the frozen north stands 4} feet at the shoulder, and is, like CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 217 other North American types, a peculiar mixture of several families. Though it goes by the name of ox, it is almost as closely related to the sheep, or perhaps it would be still more correct to regard it, strictly, as quite distinct from either group. Its long body is covered with a thick coat of very long hair, and the horns, which average a little over 24 inches, are very solid and curve downwards in a way unusual in horned animals. It is hunted with dogs and then shot while the dogs hold it at bay, a very poor sort of sport, if such slaughter can be called sport at all. The bighorn sheep, though still found throughout the Rocky Mountains, as far south as Mexico, is at its best in British Columbia, and has, in fact, so far as the United States are concerned, retired to all but inaccessible height in Wyoming and Montana, where its powers of climbing have so far averted the fate meted out to the buffalo of the plains. The ram stands a little over 40 inches at the shoulder, and the massive, wide-curved horns have been known to exceed 50 inches over the curve. They are often broken off at the tips, which probably occurs in fighting, though certainly not, as was formerly believed, by these animals jumping over precipices and alighting on their horns! This animal is pro- tected in British Columbia by a close time, as 218 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE well as by licences limiting the bag. Like other mountain sheep, it is always on the look out for danger, and can, as a rule, be shot only from above. The Rocky Mountain goat is not a goat at all, but rather an antelope. As its horns never exceed 12 inches they are a wretched trophy compared, for instance, with those of the big- horn, and if sportsmen still go after the animal at all, it is on account of the well-known diffi- culty there is in reaching its haunts, which can be arrived at only by the most arduous clamber over terrible ground far above the timberline. Thus, whereas the bighorn is an exceedingly wary and difficult creature to stalk, the ‘‘ goat,” once found, offers no further difficulty or in- terest, being one of the most foolish wild animals in creation. It has a characteristic crouching attitude that is very peculiar, and quite unlike that of any other animal of its kind or size, and, though a wonderful climber, it lacks the quickness of movement and agility of other mountain game. An animal of the United States that must stand alone is the pronghorn antelope, the only living animal with hollow horns that are shed annually as deer shed their antlers. These CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 219 horns measure about 17 inches. There are also peculiarities about the hair on the neck and body. If the bighorn is sought for its horns, and the ‘‘goat”’ for its inaccessibility, the pronghorn is shot for its flesh, which is delicious eating, even in summer, when so much other game is not worth the cooking. Unfortunately’ it is being fast exterminated, and the time cannot be far distant when, like the bison, it will survive only in protected parks; and even in the Yellowstone, where it is safe from the sportsman, it is being de- voured by wolves. The true home of the pronghorn is on the open grassy plains from Manitoba southward to Nevada and California, and it was even found in the Colorado desert, as far from regular supplies of water as the eland of the Kalahari. It is a delicate animal, and even suffers from severe winter weather. It is also a wary creature and must be stalked with infinite patience. Even so, in the absence of cover on the plains, it must generally be shot at long range. DEER The deer of Canada are of great importance to the sportsman, including as they do the moose, caribou, wapiti, mule deer, and white- tail, or Virginian, deer. The greatest of all 220 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE living deer is the moose, and a bull moose will stand over 6 feet at the shoulder. The record antlers measure 554 inches, with 4o points. This is the same animal as the European elk, which is chiefly shot in Norway and Sweden, but which also ranges through Russia to the Caucasus. In Canada it is found chiefly in the Lower Provinces, i.e. New Brunswick, Quebec, and Nova Scotia. Besides being the largest, it is also without doubt the ugliest of deer, its hairy throat, flat and spreading antlers and huge snout giving it an ungainly and _ for- bidding appearance, particularly if seen sud- denly and unexpectedly at close quarters. In colour, the bull goes from black to grey, and the antlers are shed in the depth of winter. The moose feeds chiefly on young shoots of the birch and spruce and, in summer time, on lily pads, wallowing in the cool brooks and tearing these up wholesale, so intent on gather- ing its salad as to be oblivious of approaching canoes. As, however, the summer close time is strictly enforced, it runs, or should run, no risk of being shot with anything worse than a camera. I regret to say that it is precisely in the summer months, when the game wardens are off duty, that the poachers are most active, particularly in Madawaska County. The authorities do all they can to prevent such breach of the law, and not long ago a CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 221 man was fined £40 for killing a cow and a calf. Yet the moose is holding its own in some districts, and even increasing in a few, in spite of the fact that the number shot law- fully by licence-holders in 1910 amounted in New Brunswick alone to no fewer than 2052. The usual way of shooting moose is by call- ing the bull within range of the rifle. This can be done only in early autumn, and the services of a professional caller, who uses a birchbark trumpet for the purpose, must be engaged. It is not, in any case, a very high- class amusement, and indeed, Colonel S. J. Lea, c.B., to whom I am indebted for the follow-" ing reminiscence of moose-calling, regards it frankly as ‘‘about the most poaching form of sport” he ever took part in. He describes it thus :-— ‘*Tt was at the first full moon after Septem- ber 15, some years ago, that I found myself with two Micmac Indians in a birchbark wig- wam near a lake in the backwoods, not far from Windsor (N.S.). There were duck on the lake, snipe in the marshes, and ruffed grouse in the woods, yet not a shot was fired at any of these, as one of my guides had come across signs of moose. Our camp was pitched in the timber on the lake shore, and after dinner the guide, whose name was Andrew, shaped a conical horn out of birchbark, which 222 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE he then put to his lips, and, lo! the dull- throated roar of a bull moose echoed through the still forest, rising and falling in wonderful imitation of the creature’s challenge. We listened intently, but in vain, for no answer- ing roar came in response. Then, after wait- ing for a quarter of an hour, the call was repeated, but again without result, so we turned in and lay down on the fragrant beds piled high with tips of hemlock. ‘‘Next evening Andrew called again, and now indeed there came from afar the answering call. Then, after another wait, which seemed like an hour but could only have been a matter of minutes, he called once more, and again the answer reached us, this time from much closer at hand. The next sound we heard was that of the moose thrashing his way with his antlers as he came through the undergrowth. Fortu- nately the wind was in the right quarter, and still he came in our direction, when suddenly, perhaps a hundred yards from where we waited, we heard him no more, and concluded that he must have stopped. And now Andrew gave just one low grunt on his trumpet, and I slipped back the catch of the rifle, staring anxiously into the gloom, where the moonlight threw such fantastic shadows that it was easy to mistake the boughs of trees for spreading antlers. Suddenly, John, my other Indian, touched my arm and pointed towards the darkness. He, of course, could see the moose, but my eyes were not those of a Micmac, and it took me a moment longer to make out the CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 223 great Roman nose and broad antlers of a large moose standing head on. In that dim light I dared not risk a shot at the animal in that position, but in a few minutes it turned and gave me the chance of a broadside. I fired, and the moose fell to the shot, but, although it had a very fine head, and although my licence allowed me to shoot four moose, this one was the first and last I cared to kill by such means!” In spite of its great strength and stature, the moose is said to leave a district when the smaller white-tailed deer comes into it, while the caribou, in its turn, retreats before the moose. The latter statement bears the stamp of probability, but it is not easy to believe that an animal of such fighting weight as a moose would give way before another much smaller member of the same family. A deer would not scale more than one-eighth the weight of a moose.. Yet we are asked to believe the lighter animal capable of driving the other before it. Facts, no doubt, are facts, and it seems established that the same district is not suited to both kinds. Yet there may be some other explanation than that commonly accepted. Is it, for instance, not possible that there are periodical changes in the vegetation, or other conditions, of a district 224 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE which may simultaneously make it suitable to the needs of the smaller animal and no longer habitable for the larger ? The moose is known in Europe as the ‘‘ elk,” but the ‘‘elk,” so-called, of America is a very different animal, more correctly known as the wapiti, a magnificent deer, and second in size only to the moose itself. A big stag may stand 54 ft. at the shoulder, and the record antler is over 60 in., twenty-pointers having been known. The wapiti is also found in the Caucasus and in Manchuria. It used to be common on the east side of America, but has long been exterminated there, and now has its last refuge in the Rocky Mountains, both on the Canadian side and in Colorado and Montana. The finest are found in Vancouver Island and in the hills on the mainland opposite. In other days, when these animals were more plentiful and less suspicious of man, they could be ridden down and shot with re- volvers, much as Mr. Winans occasionally rides down his park deer. Nowadays, how- ever, the wapiti must be stalked and shot at comparatively long range. The herd rests during the greater part of the day, but also feeds at intervals, and the easiest time to shoot the stags is when they are challenging each CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 225 other to battle royal. The wapiti does not, like some other deer, hide away in the gloomy depths of the forest, but, where not disturbed, prefers the edge of the timber, with open clearings to feed in. It grazes and browses, eating all manner of grasses, as well as leaves and twigs. The case of a sportsman (Sir Henry Seton- Karr) coming right on a sleeping buffalo has been quoted, and he also draws my attention not only to the extraordinary watchfulness of deer, but also to the curious habit of wapiti and others, when in herds, leaving the sentinel duty to the females. The cow wapiti is aware of danger in an instant. When uncertain of its nature or direction, she gives a warning bark, but the least scent, even if only picked up by a straggler, sends the whole herd away at top speed, as if moved by a single impulse, and always in the direction of safety. More- over, deer are usually able and willing to help one another. By way of illustrating this, Sir Henry recalls the following experience: ‘‘I was once stalking a good stag ona far-away island of Norway. I had watched it feed into a deep hollow. During the stalk, a smaller stag, some distance away, got wind of me. Now, instead of immediately bolting, as it might reasonably have been expected to, the smaller animal did his best to warn the other P 226 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE of his danger by trotting up to him and trying to attract his attention. Unfortunately for the big stag (but fortunately for myself), the great depth of the valley into which his big friend had fed thwarted his gallant attempt.” The caribou of Canada (also found in some of the northern States) is the same animal as the European reindeer, though Americans in- sist on distinguishing two different kinds, the Barren Ground and the Woodland caribou, the latter being much larger and more southern in its range. A full-grown stag may stand 4% ft. at the shoulder, and in Newfoundland even taller examples have been shot. The longest recorded antler is 62 in. As in the reindeer, both sexes carry antlers, and both, of course, cast them each season. Caribou feed on moss and lichens, also on cranberries and other wild fruits. The Wood- land caribou keeps in the same district as a rule, though restless at some seasons of the year; but the Barren Ground kind band together in immense herds and perform long migrations east and west at regular intervals, a habit taken advantage of by those who shoot them. This animal has, as already mentioned, splay feet, which enable it to run at great pace over CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 227 soft ground or snow, without crashing through the surface crust in the manner that so often proves the undoing of a moose when pursued by hunters. It is, in consequence, when only slightly wounded, a difficult animal to follow up. The two other deer of North America are the mule deer, also called black-tailed deer, and the Virginian, or white-tailed, deer. The mule deer is found only on the western side, and the true black-tailed deer is restricted to the Pacific Slope. 49, 116 Jungle Book, The, 131 Kadiak Island, Brown bear of, 232 Kalahari, Elands thriving in the, 207 Kangaroo shooting, 239 Kashmir, 83; game laws of, 329; “stag” of, 92 ; bears in, 136, 137 Kathiawar, Lions in, 39, 252 Keddah, 65 Kipling, 131, 283 Krait, Bite of the, 139 Ladak, 50, 83 Lagden, Sir Godfrey (quoted), 207 Lays of Ind, 117 Lea, Col. S. J. (quoted), 221 339 Le Breton, Mr. (killed by a tiger), 250 Lee-Warner, Sir William (on intelligence in elephants), 65- 70 Leopard as a pet, 132 ; cannibal tastes of, 129; destructiveness of, 13, 129, 166; different kinds of, 127; fight between cheetah and, 167; man-eat- ing, 128; method of catch- ing monkeys adopted by, 110; narrow escape from, 260; preying on dogs, 128, 131; sportsmen killed by, 260 Lewis, Col. D. F. (encounter with lion), 152 Lions, Alleged magnanimity of, 165; and giraffe, 166; com- pared with tiger, 97, 151; destructiveness of, 13, 304; female braver than male, 156 ; Indian, 95; in the Bible, 106 ; man-eating, 107; maneless, 150; occasional cowardice of, 151-9; pursuing cyclists, 161, 162; range of, 39; remark- able adventure with, 253, roar of, 163; slaughtered by Boers, 303; sportsmen killed by, 250-3 Livingstone, 146, 246 Llama, 238, 287 London, Draught-dogs in, 292 Longden, Mr. Gerald (killed by an elephant), 256 Longstaff, Dr. T. (quoted), 83, 96, 132, 228 “Lost Man’s Friend,” The, 303 Lyall, Sir Alfred (quoted), 304 Machan, Shooting from a, 26, 76, 77, 108, 111, 248, 249 Machilla, Travel by, 146 McClintock, Sledge-dogs used by, 291 Madeira, Cruelty to bullocks in, 289 340 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE Mahout, 60, 66, 67, 2773; res- cued from tiger by elephant, 97 Mammoth, Siberian, 58 Man-eater, Evolution of the, 104-7; scarce in Nilgiris, 106 ; sex of, 106 Man-eaters of Tsavo, The, 107, 251 Mancions lions, 150 Mangrove swamps, Animal life in the, 31 Markhor, Horns of the, 83 Marsh Deer, 237 “ Maximus” wrongly applied to the Indian elephant, 52 Méhari (swift camel), 285 Mesmerising tigers, 117 Mesopotamia, Lions in, 95 Mhow, Elephant executed at, 54 Migrations, Animal, 38, 85, 86 Miramichi, The River, 27 Mistakes made by animals, 109 Moffatt (narrow escape from cobra and lion), 246 Molony, Lieut. (mauled by lion), 252 Mongoose, Tactics of the, 140 Monkeys betray the where- abouts of big game, 150; preyed on by tigers, 108; by leopards, 110 Moose, Calling, 221-3 ; disturb- ing a, 29; evicted by white- tailed deer, 223 ; food of, 220; identical with European elk, 220; poached in summer months, 220 Morgan, Prof. Lloyd (quoted), 109 Mosquitoes in Newfoundland, 216 Mountain transport, Elephants used for, 279 ; yaks for, 288 Mule deer, Range of, 227 Muntjac as a pet, 133; teeth of, 133 Murray, Colonel (quoted), 249 Murray, Major (quoted), 257 ote ox, Method of hunting, 217 “ Must” in elephants, 61 Mysore, Elephant shooting in, 63 Nandi lion-hunters, 243 Nansen, Sledge-dogs used by, 291 Nature-teaching, Io, II Neave, Mr. (killed by a sloth bear), 261 Negro, Ways of the, 14, 148, 151, 276, 277, 296, 307, 319 Nepal, Rhinoceros in, 73 “Never Never,” the, 37 Neumann, Mr. Arthur (gored by an elephant), 256, 320 New Brunswick, Game laws of, 328 Newfoundland, Mosquitoes in, 216 “ Nile-horse,” 187 Nilgiris, Game laws in the, 329 Okapi, Discovery of the, 147 Oswell (tossed by black and white rhinoceros), 246 Otter trained to catch fish, 295 Outram, Sir James (adventure with a tiger), 117 Ovis ammon and O. poli, 83 Panther afraid of wild boar, 75 ; and hyena sharing same cave, 129 ; on a railway, 47 Park, Mungo, 146 Patterson, Colonel, to Peary, Sledge-dogs used by, 291 Penang, Crocodiles on the coast of, 144 Penguins, Fearlessness of, 273 Persia, Lions in, 95 Pet animals, 80, 132, 133, 136, 274 Pigsticking, 74, 80 Pioneer Mail (quoted), 128, 259 — INDEX Pitfalls for wild boar, 82 Poer, Mr. H. C. de la (adven- ture with lions), 154 Porcupine in camp, 28 ; protec- tion of, 305 Pronghorn antelope in the Yel- lowstone, 219 Protective colouring, 25 Puma, Alleged friendliness of, 236; enmity between jaguar and, 237; hunting with dogs, * 235 Python, Encounter with a, 26 Quagga exterminated by Boers, 204, 313 Queensland, Mangrove swamps in, 31 Railway trains, Encounters be- tween wild animals and, 47, 48, 71,72 Rangoon Gazette (quoted), 96 “ Ranjitsinhji” bags an Indian lion, 95 Rat, A tame, 274 Red Bear, 137 Reedbuck and lion, 208 Reid, Mr. Percy (adventures with lions), 153, 156-60 Reindeer, Taming of the, 17, 289, 290 Restigouche, Salmon-fishing in the, 215 Rhinoceros, attracted by camp fires, 186; elephant afraid of, 96; horns of, 73, 183; im- mune from rinderpest, 309 ; methods of fighting, 73, 184 ; nervousness of, 75, 185; slaughter of, 321; square- mouthed, 184, 185 Rhodesia, Elephant-shooting in, 16, 174-82 Rifles andammunition, Perform- ances with modern, 247, 321 Rinderpest, Depredations of, 308, 309 341 Roberts, Lord (and cats), 98 Rocky Mountain goat, Foolish- ness of the, 218 “Rogue” elephants, Theories concerning, 61-4, 295 Rook and squirrel, Fight be- tween, III Roosevelt, Giraffe shot by, 194 ; rhinoceros shot by, 185, 321 Rospoli, Prince (killed by an elephant), 194 Royal Colonial Institute, The, 18 Royal Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, 289, 292 Russell, Mr. Robert (killed by a buffalo), 263 Russian forest, Daybreak in a, 26, 27 Sable antelope, Native killed by a, 264 Salisbury Plain, Solitude of, 23 Salmon-fishing, 43 Sambur, Antlers of, 88; young (escaping notice), 91 Sanctuaries for big game, 301, 311 Sandbach, Major (killed by a lioness), 250 Saunders, Capt. A. (bitten by a lion), 252 Sea, Crocodiles attacking bath- ers in the, 144 Selous, F. C. Mr.,_ early memories of, 146 ; encounters with wild beasts, 184, 244, 246, 252, 262; on armed native question, 319; on buffalo and tsetse-fly, 210; on character of buffalo, 264; on eland flourishing in the Kala- hari, 207 Sense of proportion, Importance of a, 45 Senses of wild animals, 24, 25 Sentinels, Wild animals as, 84 Seoni, 131 342 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE Seton-Karr, Sir H. (quoted), 24, 25, 26, 63, 156, 225 Sharpe, Mr. Reginald (quoted), 208 Sheep, Domestication of the, 273, 275; wild, 83, 217 “‘ Ship of the desert,” 283 Sledge-dogs and Eskimo chil- dren, 277, 291 Sleeping Sickness, Ravages of, 147 Sloth bear as a pet, 136; food of, 136; inappropriate name of, 135 Snake-charmers, 141 Snakes, Venom of, 140 Snow-leopard, 127 Society for the Preservation of the Wild Faunaof the Empire, 12 Somali herdsman a fighter, 276 South America poor in big game, 234 Spain, Camels in, 287, 296; game laws of, 324 Sport, The freedom of, 14 Squirrel and rook, Fight be- | tween, III Stags, Duels between, 170 Steinbok, Courage of the, 207 Steller’s Sea-cow, Extermina- tion of, 314 Stevenson - Hamilton, (quoted), 306, 31 Stigand, Capt. leopard), 260 Stromboom (encounter giraffe), 193 Suakin Field Force, 287 Sunderbunds, Tiger-shooting in the, 116 Swamp-deer (see Barasingh) Sweden, Elk in, 88 Swiss Lake Dwellings, dences of the, 271 Switzerland, Game laws of, 324 Sword-hunters, Arab, 16 Syria, Tame buffaloes in, 277 Major ee (killed by with Evi- Talbot, Major (quoted), 87, 110, 141, 257 ; Taming, Meaning of, 274 Tangier, Pigsticking near, 74 Teale, Mr. (killed and eaten by a lion), 251 Thomson, Mr. (tossed by a buffalo), 262 Thomson-Seton, Mr. (quoted), 288 Tibet, 50, 84 Tiger, able to climb, 112 ; and swim, 114, —, Adventures with, 258, 259 — as pet, 132 —, Cowardice of, 115 — cubs taken alive, 120 —, Destructiveness of, 13 - —, Food of, 103 — in the Sunderbunds, 116 — killed by unarmed native, 119; with spear and dagger, 117 —, Lion compared with, 97 —s method of catching mon- keys, 108; and of eating victim, 128 —, Mesmerising a, 117 — routed by elephant, 96 — shooting in Mysore, 121 —, Sportsmen killed by, 257 —s, two, at one shot, 126 “Tiger-cry” of the jackal, 113 Todas and their buffaloes, 277 Transvaal, Extermination of big game in the, 318; Game Re- serve, 306 Travancore, Elephant-shooting in, 63 Travel, Easy conditions of mo- dern, 44. Trophies, Greed for, 332 Tsavo, Man-eating lions at, 107, 152 Tsetse-fly, The, 147, 309 Turkey, Game laws of, 324; Treatment of horses in, 289 INDEX Uganda Railway, 146 United States, Game laws of the, 326 Van der Byl, Mr. P. B. (adven- ture with a leopard), 260, 261, Venom of lizards, 142; of, snakes, 140 Ventriloquist, An Abyssinian, 164 Virginian deer in Canada, 227 Von Koppenfels (killed by a buffalo), 263 \ Vulture, Marvellous eyesight of the, 171 Wahlberg (killed by elephant), 256 Wapiti-shooting, 224 Warfare, Camels in, 285, 286; elephants in, 278 Wart-hog, Appearance habits of, 213 Waterbuck, Man killed by a, 264 “ Water-elephant,” Newly-dis- covered, 183 an and 343 “White” elephant, 56; rhino- ceros, 183 hide ats Mr. Caspar (quoted), 262 Wild boar, dog, sheep, etc. (see Boar, Dog, Sheep) Wildebeest and cheetah in Paris Zoo, 294; grotesque appear- ance of, 208; protection of black, 317 Wilderness, The, 17 Williamson, Colonel (quoted), Se et 110, 124, 132, 133, 134, I 3 Wolhuter, Mr. (remarkable ad- venture with two lions), 253 Wolves attacking man, 233 Yak in Canada,” 288; size and strength of, 84; taming of, 17, 84, 288 fa Mr. (killed by anelephant), 25 Zebra, 204, 205; in harness, 297 BY THE SAME AUTHOR Our Agreeable Friends The Times.—‘... a volume which should be a delight to any boy who is fond of animals.” The Pall Mali Gazette.—‘‘ Mr. Aflalo is one of those authors to whom the experienced reader yields his perfect confidence, both as a naturalist and as a writer, and to no one could we send young people to learn about animals with so strong an assurance that they will be taught in the most pleasant, as well as the most educative way.” The Daily News.—“ Such a collection of animal stories as this is for all time.” Freeman’s Journal,—‘‘ This is a charming book of anecdotes about animals... . The stories are charmingly told.” The Sheffield Daily Telegraph.—‘. . . Nobody tells animal stories better than Mr. Aflalo.” | teTBunf pue sseuropTTM ey} FO A00d V v | (*pe) e8z0ep yoTrepety ‘OTeTIY Z 86093T vt SANNA y yak ee een x ; ax SOY : vi, ¢ i ‘ Neen ee f : OSCE SG ATS ; i Na } ‘ y ee w waht Me, : st fi Uy IPaNNA a FX AN as ei AVE ins Kes UTA ie tr as