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A BOOK OF THE WILDERNESS
AND JUNGLE
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“THE WATCHFULNESS OF THE ARGALI.”
oat
A.BOOK OF
THE WILDERNESS
AND JUNGLE
EDITED BY
F. G. AFLALO, F.R.G.S.
AUTHOR OF ‘‘OUR AGREEABLE FRIENDS”
ILLUSTRATED IN COLOUR AND BLACK AND WHITE
BY E. F, CALDWELL
oa
+
LONDON
S. W. PARTRIDGE & CO.,.LTD.
OLD BAILEY
ee
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
I. THE WILDERNESS
Il. THe CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS
III]. THE VENGEANCE OF THE WILD
IV. THe TAMING OF THE WILD
V. Tue PASSING OF THE WILD
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
IN COLOUR
‘©THE WATCHFULNESS OF THE ARGALI”
‘* FULL ON A GREAT MOOSE” : -
‘‘ THe BOAR THINKS LITTLE OF DRINKING
AT THE SAME WATERHOLE ” A -
‘* FROM THE CATTLE TO THEIR DRIVER
WAS BUT A STEP” : ; : s
“CLEAN THROUGH A HERD OF HARTE-
BEEST ”” ; ; ci é ; :
**So as TO BREAK THE LIoNn’s JAW” .
IN BLACK AND WHITE
‘* Anp HissED SAVAGELY AT THE BOAR ”
‘Back CAME THE ELEPHANT IN NO END
OF A Hurry” . 3 a : :
‘““’THe AFRICAN RHINOCEROS USES ITS
HorRN FOR TOssING ITS ENEMY” ‘
A RARE ANTELOPE é . ‘
THE MEAL THAT MIGHT HAVE BEEN
‘*It MANAGES TO JUMP ON THE JAGUAR’S
Back” : : ‘ , : é
Frontispiece
Facing page 28
74
104
156
192
PREFACE
A PREFACE usually explains, or professes to
explain, why a book is written. It may, asa
rule, be taken as read that scores of friends
have urged the author not to keep his know-
ledge from the world. These friends then
expect copies of the book when it appears. I
cannot plead any such wholesale mandate. The
book was written at the invitation of the pub-
lishers, and for reasons not unwelcome to those
who write books.
Yet I would not have set about it if it had
not seemed to filla gap. It attempts, in fact,
to be a kind of Nature-study book on the larger
scale, an introduction to the study of big game
in our overseas possessions. It is not merely
a book of adventure with wild animals, though
its pages contain many thrilling stories of actual
encounters told by those who took part in them.
But it aims at something over and above this
sensational treatment of the subject.
Many volumes have been published during
9
10 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
the last few years on what is known as Nature-
teaching. Some of these are very good, others
only good, and further grades need not be
specified. All of them attempt, more or less
successfully, to rouse an interest in wild life,
animal and vegetable, and to moderate the
thirst for destroying it. The rare fern is treated
as respectfully as the rare butterfly. There can
be no doubt whatever that the excellent Boy
Scout movement has in great measure been
responsible for this literature, for there is
obvious necessity for encouraging this combi-
nation of observation and restraint in an
immense body of youngsters suddenly turned
loose, often without the embargo of trespass,
in the most peaceful corners of England.
Therefore book after book appears in which
the Boy Scouts (and other boys who are too
lazy to scout) are taught to watch squirrels
without catapulting them and count the eggs
in the blackbird’s nest without taking them.
This is very admirable doctrine, and, so far as
England is concerned, it could not be bettered.
All lads are not, however, destined to stay in
England. Many—one might say most—of the
best and brightest turn their eyes to other
PREFACE II
lands, either in adventurous ambition to see
the world, or from sheer compulsion to make
their way in life with greater opportunities
than they can find in the Old Country.
Necessity, then, and choice combine to send
thousands of young fellows every year to India,
Africa, Canada, or those farther colonies that
lie on the other side of the world. In one
sense, no doubt, the Mother Country is the
loser by this steady drain on the best of her
blood, and it has even been compared with the
loss of the strongest and bravest of her man-
hood in war. Yet there is this difference that,
whereas those who fall in battle are gone for
all time, many who make a career overseas
return home to end their days. This is true
of practically all who, as soldiers, civil servants,
or planters, go to India; and those who, in
the kinder climates of other outposts of the
Empire, settle permanently in their adopted
home, remain loyal at heart to the old country
and rally round her when she needs them.
This book, then, is intended as an introduc-
tion to Nature Study in those vast territories
beyond the seas over which the British flag is
still kept fiying. How different are they from
12 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
this little ‘‘Great” Britain of ours—of the
quiet meadows with their moles and rabbits,
little woods that would scarcely hide an
elephant, rivers that are mere rills, lakes that
might be ponds, and mountains little more than
anthills when compared with the splendid
majesty of Himalaya or the Rockies. Instead
of such miniature scenes, we have to consider
the Wilderness—desert, jungle, or mountain—
vast, mysterious, in parts still untrodden by
man, and the last stronghold of many beautiful
or interesting creatures on the verge of dis-
appearance.
Here also, with some exceptions, the spirit
of moderation should be encouraged, and
something is said of this in the concluding
chapter. The Passing of the Wild is inevit-
able, but it may be indefinitely delayed by
well-framed game-laws, which should limit the
bag in the case of all animals save those which
are dangerous, and which should entirely
protect such species as are threatened with ex-
tinction. The ‘‘Society for the Preservation
of the Wild Fauna of the Empire” has chosen
a clumsy title, but does admirable work in this
direction, and an equally satisfactory spirit of
PREFACE 13
protection has, even at the eleventh hour,
become apparent in the nation which drove the
wild buffalo of the prairies off the face of the
earth.
At the same time, it is necessary to use
common sense in framing these regulations
and to recognise that the injunction to spare
life cannot be worded as peremptorily in the
African or Indian jungle, as, for instance, in
Epping Forest. For one thing, many of the
wild animals are exceedingly savage and
dangerous. The lion, tiger, and leopard, to
quote only three, do not hesitate to attack
natives and annually destroy immense quantities
of cattle, sheep, goats, and poultry. Euro-
peans, it is true, are, as a rule, not molested
by these animals unless they wound them first,
though even to this immunity there are excep-
tions. But Europeans are morally responsible
for the safety and well-being of those whose
birthright they administer, and they should
consider themselves bound to shoot every lion
or tiger they may come across, even at some
personal risk and discomfort. In the chapter
entitled ‘‘ Vengeance of the Wild” the reader
will find details of terrible encounters with
14 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
infuriated wild animals, many of them ending
in the sportsman’s death, others involving
escapes little short of miraculous. No one,
after reading these stories, is likely to plead for
the protection of lions and tigers, at any rate,
though there are, no doubt, people who hold it
wicked to kill a flea.
Again, it must be borne in mind that those
who travel in the heart of a country like Africa,
even where sport is not the primary object of
their expedition, must provide meat for their
native followers as well as for themselves, and
the negro eats a deal of meat when on the
march. It would be ridiculous to forbid the
shooting of antelopes, or even of an occasional
giraffe or hippopotamus, with so many mouths
to feed. It is easy for stay-at-home folk, with
a butcher’s shop round the corner, to preach
such comfortable doctrine, but out in the wild
places life is measured by other standards than
those that suffice the complacent folk of cities.
Last, but not least, there is the freedom of
sport. I am not going to insist, in the thrilling
language of a florid prospectus recently issued
with a sporting work of reference, that ‘‘our
national games make national heroes,” for I
PREFACE 15
am of those unappreciative people who believe
that a man may be a hero even though he has
never watched a football match or shot a pigeon
out ofatrap. At the same time, there can be
very little doubt that those who have the
courage and endurance to go into the jungle
after tiger, or into the Himalaya after wild
sheep, learning, as ‘they go, the virtue of
dogged patience and the arts of woodcraft,
stalking, intercourse with native tribesmen and
getting over difficult country in quick time—
these men must be valuable assets to their
country in the hour of their country’s need.
While, therefore, sportsmen should be sub-
jected to fair and reasonable restraint, made to
pay for their amusement, debarred from killing
more than a strictly limited number of beasts,
and utterly prohibited from shooting the
females of some and both sexes of others, it
would be a bad day that should see the sport
of big game hunting unconditionally forbidden
or, worse still, losing its attraction for English-
men abroad. This book does not pretend to
offer information as to camping requisites or
rifles, though hints as to season and locality
will here and there be found. Many adven-
1 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
tures with dangerous game are related in its
pages, and most of these have been specially
contributed. There is, however, no account of
shooting either giraffe or hippopotamus, for
these should be shot only when meat is needed
for the natives, and such grisly necessity does
not fall under the head of sport. There is a
single interesting story of an elephant hunt in
Rhodesia. If the admission of this narrative
should be at variance with the view expressed
elsewhere in the book on the pity of slaying so
grand a creature for its ivory, it must be re-
membered that, when wounded at any rate,
and sometimes even without provocation, an
elephant is one of the most terrible of all wild
animals, and, as will be seen in Chapter ITI,
only one other, the lion, has killed so many
men in the history of African sport and explo-
ration.
There will also be found an exciting narrative
of the manner in which the native Arab hunters
ride down the giraffe, killing the animal with
their wonderful two-handed swords. This kind
of hunting has not often been witnessed by
Europeans, and this account, contributed by an
officer who actually took part, was too interest-
PREFACE 17
ing to omit. Moreover, though we rightly
regard the giraffe as a creature worthy of pro-
tection from the tourist’s rifle, it is perfectly
legitimate for these native swordsmen to kill it
by such means for the sake of its meat, as the
animal is bagged only after an arduous chase,
not wholly free from danger.
There is a third possibility in our relations
with the wild creatures in addition to the alter-
native of either killing them or leaving them in
peace. We can tame them, and the subject is
fraught with such interesting traditions in the
past and such curious possibilities for the future
that it has been thought worthy of a short
chapter to itself, dealing not so much with the
horse, dog, and other domestic animals familiar
at home, as with the camel, reindeer, yak, and
such beside as still exist in the wild state.
There are, it is true, wild horses in a restricted
area of Western Asia, and, in a sense also,
there are wild dogs, but the relationship is less
close than in the case of those named above.
For the uninspired descriptions of some
aspects of the Wilderness, which form the
subject of the opening chapter, I am humbly
apologetic. My sense of futility in making this
B
18 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
unavoidable attempt is the more disheartening
because I actually have been in such places
and even made notes of what most impressed
me at the time and on the spot. None the less,
they beat me, utterly. Perhaps those describe
them best who know them least. I understand
that the most lifelike pictures of battle and the
most realistic accounts of executions have been
achieved by gifted men who never witnessed
either, and I know one writer, at any rate, who
has given us the most convincing pictures of
the wilderness without ever having set foot
within a hundred miles of it. Such imagina-
tion is a blessed gift which my fairy godmother
withheld from me and which would have been
better than my equipment of pencil and note-
book and the desire to see realities. Yet I can
only offer the wares that are in my pack.
My heartfelt thanks are due to those who
have helped me in the writing of this book.
First and foremost I must thank the Editor and
Proprietors of Zhe Feld for kind permission
to quote from its teeming pages anecdotes of
shtkar, and the Secretary of the Royal Colonial
Institute for having placed at my disposal the
files of many African and Indian periodicals.
PREFACE 19
Then I must record my obligations to the
sportsmen who have so generously contri-
buted their experiences, including Mr. Edwin
Arnold, Mr. H. A. Bryden, Lord Egmont, Sir
Godfrey Lagden, k.c.m.c., Major Stevenson
Hamilton, Major Edgar Herapath, p.s.o.,
Colonel S. J. Lea, c.3., Sir William Lee-
Warner, G.c.s.1., Dr. Tom Longstaff, Professor
Lloyd Morgan, Major Murray, Mr. H. C. de
la Poer, Mr. Percy Reid, Sir Henry Seton-
Karr, c.M.G., Colonel Nevill Maskelyne Smyth,
v.c., Colonel Williamson, Major F. G. Talbot,
D.s.O., and many others.
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THE WILDERNESS
It is by no means easy, in the midst of this
built-over, cultivated, and thickly peopled
England of ours, to realise the great spaces of
the wilderness. So destructive of other effects
and impressions are the conditions of civilisa-
tion, that there is difficulty, even for those of
us who have known the wild places, to recall
their appearance once we are back in cities.
With church spires and factory chimneys
cutting the sky in every direction, we are apt
to forget the grander symmetry of bamboo and
teak. The shriek of the locomotive survives
the song of rivers, and the hum of crowds
brings unwelcome forgetfulness of Nature’s
silence. Here and there, even in modern Eng-
land, in such corners of Salisbury Plain as are
not overrun by our brave defenders, or on the
lonely heights of misty Dartmoor, away from
the trail of the tourist, it is still possible to
sense something of the sweeter solitudes ; but
such opportunities, already few, are dwindling
every year.
23
24 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
The wilderness eludes me when I try to de-
_scribe its grandeur, and I realise with profound
humiliation the vanity of trying to introduce
the reader to the baffling mystery of the forest
or the haunting glare of the desert. The
witching hour in the forest is that of dawn,
and I have loved the cold silence of its waking
away in the dreary timberlands of Canada and
Russia, as well as in the luxuriant jungle of
the Eastern tropics. Such virgin forest gives
precious isolation from the little worries of
men, and its desolate beauty provides a fitting
frame for the last years on earth of many noble
animals that are making their final stand against
the march of civilisation in these all but im-
penetrable thickets. It may seem a paradox,
but lifelessness is the keynote of these forest
scenes.
Sir Henry Seton-Karr tells me that he once
walked right on an old bull buffalo asleep in
the open plains of Africa, getting to within five
yards of the animal before it woke up. This
he regards as a very unusual case, the only one,
indeed, within his wide experience of many
continents. Indeed, even where not much
hunted, and, in consequence, not afraid of
man, this curious alertness is typical of all
the wild creatures.
Though animals of the open plain depend
mainly on their eyesight for keeping out of
THE WILDERNESS 25
danger, the jungle creatures owe their safety
to scent or hearing. Sir Henry Seton-Karr
thinks that jungle game rarely move until
absolutely certain of the danger. He tells me
that he once rode, in the heart of the Rocky
Mountains, within a hundred yards of a black-
tail buck, which stood among some trees and
there, no doubt, thought itself hidden from
view. The party did not happen to want the
animal and so rode on. The buck stood so
motionless that it might have been carved in
stone. Just as the rest were riding out of
sight, Sir Henry pulled up and looked steadily
at the buck, which in a flash bounded out of
sight. He also remembers having a driven
red-deer hind pass him within twenty yards as
he sat on a log in the heart of a Norwegian
pine-forest. Had she got wind of him, she
would have sprung high in the air and galloped
off in another direction. Yet the cunning of
woodland deer, when aware of danger, is
almost uncanny. Sir Henry once saw a stag
deliberately lie down in a pine-forest, wait
until the drivers had passed it, and then quietly
return to the woods and so out of danger.
Harmony with surroundings, or what is
sometimes, though less satisfactorily, called
**protective colouring,’’ is very characteristic
of many jungle creatures. The same sports-
man assures me that even so large an animal
26 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
as the Scandinavian elk, a greyish black deer
standing twenty hands and weighing 1500 lbs.,
is often exceedingly difficult to see in its native
pine-forests. The elephant of the African
cedar-forest fits its background so perfectly
that a sportsman has before now been known
to see nothing of one till he suddenly became
aware of its trunk waving gently almost over
his head. On one occasion, indeed, Sir Henry
himself, while hunting in an African water-
course, nearly sat on a sixteen-feet python.
‘*But,”’ as he quaintly adds, ‘‘the African jungle
is full of surprises.”
Those who have never wandered in the
jungle, knowing it only in books of ad-
venture, picture it alive with animals that show
themselves at all hours. The truth is that
they are all in hiding, and can be seen only in
one of two ways, by either watching silently,
or by driving the forest with a host of beaters.
The latter, which is the more usual method
with those in a hurry, gives only a fleeting
glimpse of the jungle-folk under most unnatural
conditions, as they fly panic-stricken for their
lives. He who sits up at night in a machan
comes nearer to the truth.
I remember such a daybreak, in the depth
of winter, in a Russian forest a hundred and
fifty miles from St. Petersburg. To reach this
outlandish spot, it had been necessary to drive
THE WILDERNESS 27
from the nearest station on the Trans-Siberian
Railway in an open country cart over miles of
snow and ice, and to be ferried, cart and all,
across a half-frozen river at the hour of mid-
night. It was not what might be called
luxurious travel. Nor, at journey’s ending,
was there soft luxury in the little hut of snow
and boughs in which I was presently enclosed
with my rifle and bidden to crouch till break
of day, not even daring to smoke for fear of
scaring the game. In the sequel, the game
showed no appreciation of my self-denial and
stayed away. Nota sign did I see of anything
more terrible than a hare, though this vast
Government forest is well stocked with bear,
elk, wolves, and other wild animals. Yet I
am quite as certain now as I was even in the
disappointment and discomfort of the moment
that the awakening of that far northern forest,
as little birds broke into song and the feeble
sun crimsoned the sparkling branches, more
than repaid me for the cold and sleepless night
that went before.
Less rigorous, and even more attractive, is
another picture I recall of daybreak, one
summer’s morning, in a lonely forest of New
Brunswick, camped on the left bank of the
singing Miramichi. Here, in untrodden back-
woods, I stayed for ten days, far from the
haunts of man, poling down the stream in a
28 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
crazy dug-out, camping each night beside some
likely salmon pool, bathing, fishing, dozing, as
I watched the wild creatures of an evening,
living in unconditional surrender to the irre-
sistible spell of the wilderness. That was the
forest primeval that Longfellow sings of in
‘‘Evangeline,’’ and through it ran the turbulent
river, singing loudly as it wound along to the
Gulf of St. Lawrence, babbling of the voyageurs
and the coureurs des bots who are gone. Fir
and larch and spruce and pine, with patches of
hardwoods between, shot up tall, straight, and
slender along both banks, and modest wild
flowers made the clearings gay with colour.
It is true that few of the trees showed great
stature, for forest fires have taken heavy toll of
the Lower Provinces, and most of the timber
now standing is second growth, yet the peace
of the Canadian wilderness is white magic.
Its stillness deafens ears accustomed to the
roar of traffic. As I lay down at night on the
aromatic bed of fir-boughs piled by the guide,
and lazily blinked at the last dying embers of
the camp fire, the still darkness seemed to
reverberate with sound, and it was not until
after some interruption in the shape of a clumsy
porcupine nosing among the stores, or a
startled deer dashing through the clearing, that
the silence made itself felt. The most en-
trancing waterways in the backwoods are the
ve @ 3. « EVEL (ON A GREAT MOOSE; at
THE WILDERNESS 29
brooks tributary to the main river and running
to it from hill or lake beneath a lattice archway
of greenery. Gliding silently down such a
brook, my canoe shot one evening round a
bend and full on a great moose that was busy
crunching the lily-pads. So intent was the
clumsy deer on its summer salad that a few
moments elapsed ere the ugly head went up,
- and then, with a defiant snort of anger at being
disturbed, the giant went full gallop up the
steep bank, and turned again on a hill-top to
snort again before crashing away into the
timber.
Very different from these northern forests,
yet akin with the spirit of the wilderness, is
the eastern jungle, with its massive pillars of
teak and bamboo and deodar, its fern-clumps
and giant rhododendrons, and the serpentine
creepers gay with gorgeous blooms. Here,
too, are veritable seas of high grass, and the
carpet is woven of ragwort, thistle, violet,
cineraria, and other homelike flowers. Perched
amid the hills in the forest are native villages,
and down in the plains are ruined temples,
steaming paddy-fields, and deserted tanks.
The light in the eastern jungle is mystic. A
strange, impressive gloom, in extraordinary
contrast to the blinding glare in the open,
pervades the aisles and transepts of Nature’s
temples. There are times when this unearthly
30 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
light looks green, then blue, like that of a sea-
cavern, and there is indescribable beauty in the
changing effects as the sunlight filters through
the leafy screen. Over all these tropical
scenes, over cool forest and burning desert,
broods the pitiless brazen sky, of copper hue
throughout the day, but passing morning and
evening through every shade of blue, indigo,
turquoise, and back to ultramarine, violet as
the sun goes down over the edge of the desert,
and, just at the last, an uncanny green. I
have noticed this strange green ending to the
day in two arid regions, Egypt and Arizona,
just after the going of the sun, and never in
the open elsewhere.
Another scene, almost within the tropics,
not beautiful, perhaps, but with a picturesque-
ness of its own, is to be found among the
swampy Keys of Florida. In the early part of
the year, when the sun still tempers strength
with mercy, and the mosquitoes are not yet
alive to their opportunities, this is a very
pleasant land to do nothing in. Laziness is
its creed. Like the alligators and the turtles,
mankind in that region moves only under com-
pulsion, and always unwillingly. In these
mangrove swamps millions of fiddler-crabs
lie basking in the sun, scuttling back to their
burrows when disturbed with a noise like that
of rushing water. Heavy reptiles lurk in the
THE WILDERNESS 31
rank vegetation, and through evergreen cur-
tains peep the herons and the egrets which
Audubon described so well a hundred years
ago, but which, alas! have been so ruthlessly
destroyed by those who trade in feathers that
the well-meant efforts of American societies
organised for their protection come too late.
Here also are bears and jaguars, though I did
not, even in the wildest nooks of the Ever-
glades, get a glimpse of either. Here, in the
silent swamps, we used to dig out alligators
amid the music of mocking-birds and the piping
of quails, looking up from our labours at the
heavy flight of pelicans and turkey-buzzards
over the beaches and the more graceful soar-
ing of fish-hawks out over the teeming
waters.
Very similar, and to the careless eye identical,
are the mangrove swamps of tropical Queens-
land. Here, however, we knew that there was
no wild creature fiercer than the native ‘‘cat,”’
little more formidable than our English weasel.
The animals most conspicuous out on the burn-
ing plains behind the mangroves were the kan-
garoos and wallabies, grotesque objects which,
bounding out of reach of gun or rifle, look as
if, embalmed in the Australian bush, they are
survivals from some antique period before the
dawn of history. The wooded tracts of tropical
Queensland, as far north as Albany Pass and
32 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
Whitsunday Passage, are very beautiful, and
the same may be said of the vegetation of
New South Wales in the foothills of the Blue
Mountains. Yet Australian scenes inevitably
breathe a sadness that cannot be a figment of
imagination, since it appeals to all except those
who have made happy homes in the bush and
who affectionately regard it as the most in-
spiring forest landscape in all the world. The
visitor, on the other hand, who has no such
ties of sentiment to guide his judgment, finds
horrible sameness in the miles of gums and
wattles, with little or no undergrowth beneath ;
and indeed wherever the eucalyptus has been
given a new home in India, it has irretrievably
ruined the native scenery. No one will blame
Australians for their patriotism any more than he
would those loyal Dutchmen who would vote the
sand-dunes of Holland more impressive scenery
than the Trossachs. Yet if the wild Australian
bush has its chief attraction for Australians, the
splendour of the Botanic Gardens in the cities
shows that.the native flora affords material that
Adam’s art can weave into fairy scenes unfor-
gettable after twenty years. Not even the
famous gardens at Buitenzoorg, in Java, or the
better-known Cinnamon Gardens of Colombo,
rich in spreading fig-tree and feathery bamboo,
are more lovely than the Botanic Gardens of
Australia.
THE WILDERNESS 33
All through the heat of the day silence is
the most memorable quality of the wilderness,
jungle, or desert, for only morning and even-
ing, or in the time of darkness, do the beasts
and birds make themselves heard. When the
sun burns overhead in the pitiless sky, all
Nature is silent, too exhausted to move. In
early morning, it is true, the jungle is alive
with bird-voices, and as darkness falls swiftly
on the scene, with none of the lure of our
northern twilight, jackals bark plaintively in
the foothills, and a sudden scream of pain
stabs the gloom as some tiger or leopard comes
by its own.
The jungle is less perilous than some people
imagine. Beasts of prey lurk in it, no doubt, but,
so he be well gaitered against sudden snakes,
the European may walk there as safe as in an
English wood. People at home find it hard
to realise the lack of adventure. Those who
write of their experiences are compelled, if
they would hold the reader’s interest, to choose
the days on which something happened. The
other days, with nothing to distinguish one
from another, are left out of the reckoning and
are as if they had not been. It is as if we were
to recall only the battles in a country’s past and
ignore the interludes of peace.
Darkness is another feature of the forest
which must be known to be appreciated. Even
c
34 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
the heart of a wood at home is cool and shady
on the hottest, brightest day of summer, but
the giant trees of the tropical jungle, many of
them two or three hundred feet in height, so
effectually shut out the light of day that the
effect is, as already remarked, suggestive of
the light of sea-caves, green and ghostly ; and
perhaps it is this dim, religious light, recalling
old cathedrals, that has invested the forest
with its uncanny associations. It is silent,
solemn, wide and cold, ever reminding us of
those submerged coal forests of ancient
Britain, in the gloomy recesses of which
primeval crocodiles and other vanished reptiles
dozed beneath the spreading foliage of club-
mosses. Of such impressive age are its
greatest trees that the passing of nations leaves
them unmoved. Unhappily, this restful effect
of permanence belongs only to the forest
primeval where the wasteful hand of man has
not yet swung the axe and laid the monarchs
low. The majesty of these tree giants, as I
remember it at Wawona and elsewhere in
California, beggars description. The great
sequoias stand around silent and contemptuous.
They were drinking in the sunshine five thou-
sand years ago, and the monstrous dinotherium
may have ended its days in their shadow, tong
before the coming of man. What, compared
with the lifetime of such timber, are the few
THE WILDERNESS 35
years that we call history? What other vitality
do we know, animal or vegetable, equal to
theirs, seeing that they live even after coaches
are driven through their trunks? The outpost
sentinels of the Californian forest are mere
shrubs, a hundred feet or so in stature—balsam,
cedar, fir, and pine—but some of the veterans
measure a hundred feet round their base and
tower nearer three hundred feet than two into
the clear atmosphere of that beautiful region.
Even here the visitor is impressed with the
monotony inseparable from pine forests, which
are green all the year and irresponsive to the
changing seasons. The balm of their resin
may be wholesome, yet is less agreeable than
the mingled bouquet of English woods. Their
groves are not made happy with the song of
little birds. Yet they are a grand and exalting
sight, these noblest trees on earth, and it is
well that the American Government has
stationed patrols of cavalry to see that no
injury is done them. Thus, a national posses-
sion, may they stand for all time against the
greed of the builder!
The wilderness, as figured in these pages,
embraces all the wild places, from the dried-up
veldt under the Southern Cross to the eternal
snows of the Himalaya, and another aspect of
it is the desert, the Garden of Allah, which,
according to a tradition of the Bedawin, Allah
36 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
made out of the rubbish left over at the
Creation, planted it with prickly pear and
aloes, peopled it with vipers and such-like
vermin, and then laughed at the horror of its
ugliness. This is a dreadful legend, yet it has
in it an element of truth. There are, no doubt,
books in which you may read of the beauty of
the desert, since beauty is, after all, a matter
of taste, and those whose acquaintance with
the merciless sand comes from picture galleries
may find it beautiful, even as comfortable lands-
men, watching a stormy sea from the safety of
the cliffs, find it entertaining. But ask the
Arabs or the seamen. They will tell another
story. On canvas, there may be splendour in
the magic of a blood-red dawn, long before
which the Arab has folded his tent in the
moonlight and stolen away on his trek. There
is wonder in the mirage, with its false imagery
of trees and caravans that have no being
where they seem. Yet this loveliness of the
desert is Dead Sea Fruit to its own folk. To
the veiled Tuaregs of the Sahara, to the
dignified nomads beyond the Jordan, the dawn
means another day of merciless heat, the
mirage is an illusion that drives thirsty men to
the verge of insanity, the sandstorm is a torture
to any creature less resisting than a camel.
The superstitious children of the desert look on
it fearfully as the abode of evil jinns that love
THE WILDERNESS 37
to torture weak mortals. With some little
difference of local colour, there is a dreadful
sameness about the ‘‘bad lands”’ all the world
over. Here is the Great Thirst : in the Plateau
of Gobi, in the Sahara, in the burning sands of
Arizona, or the ‘Never Never” of Australia,
everywhere the cloudless, brazen skies, the
pitiless sun, the parched earth. The Gardener
has planted this waste with spiteful vegetation,
spinifex and algarobo scrub, wait-a-bit thorn,
saltbush, cactus, and aloes. Ghoulish vultures
wheel in the blue on the look-out for some
fallen camel, and lazy sand-vipers bask in the
sun, scarcely distinguishable from the earth
they lie on. The desert may be beautiful in
pictures or in poetry, but the reality of it is
horrible, and its beauty is the beauty of death.
Each type of scenery has its characteristic
creatures, and the influence of the soil, climate
and vegetation on their form and character is
part of the interesting and much-misunderstood
subject of environment, any discussion of which
is outside the scope of these pages. What we
can at any rate appreciate is the association of
jungle, desert, plain and mountain each with its
Own appropriate group of wild animals. We
should not, for instance, expect to find the
majority of monkeys far from the forest. We
should not look for a grazing animal like the
bison in the desert, nor should we seek alpine
38 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
animals like the sheep and goats in the plains.
Every part of the wilderness has its appointed
tenants, though some overlapping inevitably
arises out of temporary changes of home on the
part of migrants. Thus, though nothing seems
to attract the wild sheep down to the plains,
we find all manner of lowland game, like the
bison and the elephant, climbing thousands of
feet into the hills in search of cooler weather,
fresh pastures and a respite from biting insects,
which, if not wholly unknown, are at least less
aggressive at the higher levels. The tiger is
also encountered at an altitude of six or seven
thousand feet, though with what object it
performs such journeys is not apparent.
The manner in which many of these creatures
have developed certain features, among which
various forms of foot are conspicuous, is also of
the greatest interest. Thus we find the camel
and giraffe with just the type of spreading foot
suited to rapid and sure movement over the
stony soil of the desert, and the caribou trusting
to its splay feet to bear it at top speed over the
snow and ice, so that it can outdistance even
Indians on their snow-shoes without fear of
crashing through the frozen crust in the manner
so often fatal to the moose of the same region.
Speaking generally, and with the aforemen-
tioned allowance for wanderings, we expect to
find types like the tiger, leopard, deer, bison,
THE WILDERNESS 39
bear and elephant in the forest; the lion and
rhinoceros, with antelopes and other horned
game, in the open grass plains; the giraffe,
with antelopes and gazelles, in the desert ; and
the wild sheep and goats, with bears, above the
timber on the mountain-sides. The distinction
in environment between the lion and tiger is
sufficiently illustrated by their respective haunts
in Asia. The Asiatic lion is confined to Persia,
Mesopotamia and a single forest in Kathiawar.
The lions of Gir (Kathiawar) are commonly
spoken of as the last surviving Indian members
of the species, a statement which implies that
lions were at one time common elsewhere in that
peninsula. This, however, far from being
assured, is exceedingly improbable, for the
steaming jungles of the East are far more suited
to the tiger. The lion, on the other hand,
prefers the moderately dry regions of which it
finds such choice in Africa, though it is not
partial to the arid desert tracts of that con-
tinent in which the giraffe finds sanctuary from
its most dreaded natural enemy.
Everywhere we shall find the wild creatures
perfectly adapted to their surroundings; not
one single mistake in Nature’s menagerie.
The abnormal extremes of flood or drought
may occasion temporary suffering, but these
are met, where possible, by migration to kinder
conditions. The kangaroo is at home on the
40 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
open plains. Were it driven into forest land,
it would break its neck against low branches.
The climbing powers of the squirrels and
monkeys would be wasted in the plains, so we
find them only in the jungle. The keen sight
of the vulture is baffled by dense foliage, and
the bird soars over open country suited to its
strongest sense. The elephant’s trunk and the
long neck and tongue of the giraffe are clearly
adapted to stripping branches of their leaves.
Whether these striking types were so created
from the beginning, seeking the kind of environ-
ment in which they were best qualified to find
their food, or whether the elephant developed
its trunk, and the giraffe stretched its neck, as
circumstances demanded, is a matter of opinion.
Each view has its supporters confident of their
own case. The wisest man is he who is least
sure.
THE CREATURES OF THE
WILDERNESS
II
THE CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS
Ir all Englishmen could spend their lives at
home, even supposing that the prospect at-
tracted them, they would have no reason to
complain that their own country provided them
with too little opportunity for either sport or
nature-study, since, thanks in great measure
to wise laws and also to the exclusion from
great private estates of what our American
friends pleasantly call ‘‘ game-hogs,” the shoot-
ing and fishing in these islands, if in some
respects a little artificial, are equal to those of
any other country in Europe and superior to
the sport of most. Few animal stories are
more interesting than those of the fox, the
otter, or the red deer; few birds are more
attractive to the naturalist and sportsman than
the red grouse; few fishes are more exciting
to the angler, or more puzzling to the student,
than the salmon. No continental country
affords finer deer-stalking or salmon-fishing
than Scotland, and in none, certainly, is the
sport of fox-hunting better understood or more
43
44 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
enthusiastically enjoyed than in England. In
their early boyhood, therefore, and also in the
autumn of life, after long years of work given,
it may be, to the service of their country under
other skies, Englishmen with a taste for these
country pleasures are singularly blest. In
middle life, however, a large number must, at
one time or another, go abroad, and the burden
of exile is considerably lightened by knowing
something of the wilderness and its animal life.
Nor, in these days of rail and steamer, is it a
very far cry from the elms and oaks of English
spinneys to the deodars of the Himalaya, the
teak forests of Burma, the cold and silent back-
woods of Canada, or the steaming jungle of
Central Africa. «Jt takes but a couple of weeks
of turbine and Iécomotive to transport us from
quiet English“fields to the rolling prairie, the
limitless veldt, the bleak steppes, or the in-
exorable desert. Arrived at those scenes, which
we have known hitherto only in our boyhood’s
books of adventure, we shall find the animals
worthy of their setting. In place of the badger
and weasel, we are confronted with the ponder-
ous elephant and rhinoceros, the savage lion
and tiger, the broad-antlered moose and grace-
ful antelopes, heavy and treacherous wild cattle ;
in fact, with all manner of beasts, birds, and
reptiles, great and small, fierce or timorous,
harmless or venomous.
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 45
An attempt is made in the present chapter
to give some account of the habits and appear-
ance of some of the most interesting, preference
being given to those which the sportsman is
most likely to encounter, either accidentally
or of set purpose, in the wilds of India, Africa,
Canada and other regions to which Englishmen
commonly emigrate. This exile to foreign
parts is usually looked upon as the penalty of
the younger sons ; yet those who have travelled
far and wide, shooting or fishing, or merely
keeping their eyes and ears open to gather
what impressions they may, find themselves
pitying not so much the younger sons com-
pelled to see the world as the eldest son
privileged to stay at home.
The first chapter of this book endeavoured
to give some sort of picture of the wild places,
no easy task to one whose pen fails when
called upon to reproduce the wonders he has
seen. We have now to consider the creatures
which inhabit these solitudes, and we must,
before all, try to keep a sense of proportion,
for when we lose that we lose also all hold
on the realities of life. Goldsmith, the poet,
once dared to twit the great Dr. Johnson by
saying that, if he had tried to write a dialogue
between little fishes, he would have made them
talk like whales. In a book that finds some-
thing to say of both, every attempt has been
46 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
made not to let the rats talk like the elephants,
but to keep each in its right place is not as
easy as perhaps it looks. Another difficulty
is to show the animals in their wild surround-
ings, and not as they are in the Zoological
Gardens or Natural History Museum. I can
assure the reader, from experience, that an old
moose suddenly raising its immense and hideous
face from the lily-pads, as a canoe shoots
silently round the bend of a river and almost
to its feet, looks not less than twenty feet high,
as it dashes off into the forest with a crash
like that of an avalanche. I can say this, for
I have sat in that canoe. It is also important
to guard against deceptive impressions formed
under unusual conditions. There are, as a
case in point, Indian birds gifted with voices
which, though not perhaps equal to the night-
ingale’s best, are by no means unpleasant
when heard in an aviary, for the listener can
go away when he has had enough. It is a
very different matter for Anglo-Indians com-
pelled to listen to these noisy fowl day after
day as they lie sweltering in their hammocks,
goaded by the heat and irritation of exile in
the East; and it is hardly surprising that they
should have dubbed one of the most familiar
of these unconscious offenders the ‘‘ brain-fever
bird.”
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 47
1 INDIA
Even were it not supremely interesting for
the size, variety and abundance of its big game,
India would surely be entitled to the first place
in any English account of the creatures of the
jungle, since it is to India that the vast majority
of Englishmen turn for a career—military, civil,
or mercantile—after finishing their education
at home. Thanks partly to the religious
objection entertained by many of the natives
for taking life in any form, and partly to wise
game laws enforced of recent years by the
British rulers of the country, the wild animals
have survived in India as in no other region so
densely populated.
The extent to which Indian wild animals
have survived in the midst of a civilisation
thousands of years old is really remarkable,
though it is a fact with which we have grown
so familiar that we do not always appreciate
its significance in the relations between wild
creatures and the natives, looking on such
episodes as no more extraordinary than if they
happened in newly developed districts of
British East Africa, which, down to a few
years ago, were unreclaimed wilderness. The
following is a case in point.
Early in the present year (1912) a full-grown
panther, prowling on a much-used line in Berar,
48 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
got caught in the cow-catcher of a passenger
train. The driver stopped the locomotive, but
the brute would not, or could not, descend
from its awkward position. One of the pas-
sengers then climbed over and emptied five
chambers of a revolver into the panther, which,
however, merely snarled with rage, but still
did not leave the train. Then someone fetched
an iron bar, which was likewise ineffectual.
There was nothing for it but to proceed, and
when the train had gone a short distance the
panther got clear. It was tracked and shot
next day, and it was found to have all five
revolver bullets in it and to have lost one of his
paws. This shows remarkable vitality, but
what is still more singular is the fact of the
animal having stayed on the line to be caught
up in this fashion. Was it a case of fearless-
ness or panic ?
Those with a liking for natural history or
sport, or, better still, for both, could hardly
have their lines cast in more pleasant places.
The opportunities of exciting adventure with
dangerous game, or the milder pleasure of
scraping acquaintance with the most attrac-
tive bird population to be found anywhere
in the world, more than compensate for the
drawbacks of exile in a trying climate, and
I never yet heard a sportsman grumble of
the years he spent in India. If he grumbled,
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 49
it was after returning home, coming back to a
land that had forgotten him and that offered
the best of its sport only to those with deep
purses. Interesting as are the smaller children
of the jungle to the naturalist, very little is said
of them in these pages, and there is only
incidental mention of Indian birds, which in-
clude the grotesque hornbills, the tuneful sun-
birds, the gorgeous peacock, dancing adjutant,
and hideous vulture. Indian birds are, thanks
to the native practice of leaving them in peace,
singularly fearless and may therefore be studied
more easily than the feathered folk of some
other countries in which, alas! man has been
the enemy and not the friend, and those who
want a really interesting handbook by way of
introduction cannot do better than procure a
copy of Mr. Douglas Dewar’s F¥ungle Folk,
.in which the author gives a most amusing
account of his Indian friends. It is as enjoy-
able a book on birds as any I remember
reading. We are here concerned rather with
the elephant and tiger, with rhinoceros and
buffalo in the long grass of the lowlands, with
the cunning ‘‘bison,”’ trusting sambur, and
fighting wild boar that live in the cool forest
glades, with the graceful blackbuck that scour
the plains, with the black and brown bears of
the foothills, and with the magnificent Hima-
layan wild sheep and goats, whose branching
D
50 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
horns sportsmen seek in the eternal snows of
the mountain-tops and value above all other
trophies of the chase, if only because so much
more time and toil have gone to their winning.
It cannot be said that sport in India is as good
as it was in the old days. Wild animals are
scarcer, and wild tourists are more plentiful.
Yet good sport is still to be had for those who
will take the trouble to look for it, and sports-
manship is better and cleaner in India than
anywhere else out of England. The pot-hunt-
ing that goes on in Africa, in spite of the
vigilance of game-wardens, would be an
impossibility in a densely populated, well-
governed land like India, where, to give only
one reason for the difference, there are no
ivory-hunters, native or European. Of Ameri-
can sport I say nothing. Americans like my
friend Mr. Hornaday, superintendent of the
Bronx Animal Park, have said enough and to
spare, and the scarcity of wild animals in the
United States speaks for itself. Compare the
condition of big game in India with that of
the United States which, with, roughly, twice
the area, have not one third of the population.
Yet, save in a few outlying districts and
Government Reservations, the land is all but
denuded of its wild animals. With India we
may bracket the neighbouring countries of
Ladak and Tibet, as well as the island of
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 51
Ceylon, which, while possessing many large
animals in common with the mainland, has no
tiger, no rhinoceros and no brown bear.
The immense numbers of wild animals in
India survive even the slaughter encouraged by
Government for the purpose of saving human
life in the jungle. Even with such precautions,
the death-rate of natives killed by wild animals
is terrible, and in rgto alone no fewer than 2400
are officially recorded as having perished in this
way. People in India declare that many of
these so-called deaths from wild beasts are the
work of poisoners, but we must remember the
great difficulty of getting reliable evidence,
even on oath, in communities that do not set a
very high value on truth; and wild beasts may
occasionally furnish a convenient explanation
of tragedies wrapped in mystery. In the same
year, it may be mentioned, the death-roll among
wild beasts in the official records included 1421
tigers, 5029 leopards, 2292 bears, and over
90,000 deadly snakes. With an annual
slaughter on such a scale, it seems surpris-
ing that there should be any wild animals
left in India at all.
THE INDIAN ELEPHANT
The elephant is the greatest of Indian
animals. Clever people, who like a little
Latin with their natural history, call it maxz-
52 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
mus (i.e. biggest), which is interesting, but
wrong, for the African elephant, which, as will
presently be seen, is different from its Indian
cousin in many other respects, is also much
the larger and heavier of the two. Still, the
clever people say maxzmus, and there’s an end
of it. Yet even the Indian elephant is no
pigmy, for specimens have been known to
measure eleven feet at the shoulder. In case
you should ever want to know the height of
a tame elephant when there is no ladder handy,
it is useful to remember that twice the circum-
ference of the forefoot gives the animal’s height
within an inch or two. I have tested this more
than once, and it is at once simpler and more
accurate than the American formula for reckon-
ing the weight of the big fish called tarpon
with a tape measure. I mention this only for
the sake of comparison. The formula itself is
a nightmare. The forefoot of the elephant has
five nails, and the hindfoot only four.
The most conspicuous possessions of the
elephant are its trunk and its tusks. The only
difference is that, whereas every elephant has a
trunk, many, both male and female, are with-
out tusks, and the tusks of the female are, if
present at all, generally short and insignificant-
looking. The elephant’s trunk is, without a
doubt, the most wonderful limb, or organ, in
all nature, a kind of nose and arm in one.
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 53
That of the Indian elephant has a sort of
finger at the tip, and there are two of these
“fingers” in the trunk of the African kind.
With the help of the finger, the Indian elephant
is able to pick up all but the smallest articles
off the ground, and those still smaller, such
as grains of maize, are simply sucked into the
trunk. So that the trunk is not merely a nose
and an arm, but alsoa natural vacuum-cleaner,
which takes trifles off the ground much as the
cleaner going over a dusty drugget. Nature
turns out curious noses, particularly in the
birds, which, so to speak, have their nose and
mouth in one, as well as in some of the fishes,
which also combine the two, but I doubt
whether there is such another combination tool
as the elephant’s trunk. It even serves as a
powerful weapon now and then, for, though
they do not commonly put this sensitive organ
to such violent uses, elephants have been
known, as will be shown in an anecdote on a
later page, to seize men in their trunk and to
fling them to the ground. At the same time,
some of the artists who flourished in the simple
days when cameras had not yet recorded the
facts used to allow their imagination to run
away with them, and represented infuriated
elephants flinging hapless men about like so
many golf balls. That is what elephants do
only in books. Indeed, the trunk is usually
54 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
spared unnecessary strain, and the Govern-
ment elephants in the Burmese teak forests,
rolling and stacking logs with infinite patience
and wonderful judgment, use the trunk, as a
rule, only in steadying each log on their tusks.
Why, indeed, should the elephant hurt his
trunk when it is so easy to gore or trample
his little enemy, man? That great hunter,
F. C. Selous, was once knocked off his
frightened horse by a wounded elephant,
which then stood over him, where he lay
helpless, and drove its tusks into the earth
close to his body, one of the most extra-
ordinary escapes on record. ‘‘Charlie,” a
tame elephant at the Crystal Palace some
years ago, was teased by a man with a spear
and just trod the man to death and went quietly
back to his quarters. For this ‘‘ Charlie’ was
executed, which may have been the proper
penalty for taking the law into his own feet,
but which seemed hard lines, all the same. One
would not have thought a mere spear could do
much against an elephant’s hide. Elephants
have been executed in India also for this offence,
and I remember hearing of a case at Mhow.
The culprit was a hundred years old, and
several rajahs wished to ransom him, but he
had killed many natives, so the authorities
would not hear of reprieve. In hot weather,
or when persecuted by flies, elephants stand
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS $55
in water and use their trunk to squirt it over
their backs. I have watched this performance
on hot evenings with feelings of envy, for the
flies troubled me also, and such a shower bath
must have been very refreshing.
The tusks of the elephant are true teeth in
the upper jaw. It should be remembered that
they are quite distinct from the horn of the
rhinoceros, or even from the tushes of the wild
boar. The baby elephant has ‘‘milk-tusks ”
just as we ourselves have ‘‘ first” teeth. How
long the tusks go on growing, no one seems to
know for certain, though the theory in India is
that they do so all through the animal’s life.
As an elephant may live considerably more
than a century, this kind of statement must be
taken on trust, unless, of course, the yearly
measurements of the tusks were handed on
from father to son, which has not hitherto been
done, but it seems inconceivable that this con-
tinuous growth should be the case, as in even
middle-aged Indian elephants tusks have been
recorded measuring nearly 10 feet and weigh-
ing over 100 lbs. Such figures, however, were
always unusual, and to-day they would be very
rare. Even in Africa, where single tusks have
been taken weighing more than 150 lbs., most
of the best have long since been made into
billiard balls and brush handles. The tusks of
the cow elephant in India are small. There
56 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
are also many males without tusks at all, and
in Ceylon, indeed, tuskers, though not un-
common formerly, are nowadays the exception.
The appearance of the Indian elephant is
familiar to most of us. In colour, the skin is
black and nearly hairless, though there are
bristles on the tail. The tail itself is not
decorative, and sometimes it is much dis-
figured. One historic ‘‘rogue”’ elephant, shot
some years ago in the Bangalore Ghats, was
minus half of its tail, and the natives say that
this is done in fighting other elephants. They
must therefore bite their antagonist’s tail off,
though they must surely have some difficulty
in getting hold of such a wretched little object.
‘ In Burmah there are so-called ‘‘ white” ele-
phants. These are not in reality white at all,
but a dirty flesh colour. Still, they have been
called white for so many years that tourists in
the Far East are bitterly disappointed not to
find them as white as Polar bears. I sug-
gested above that an ordinary spear should make
very little impression on the elephant’s hide,
but I ought to have remembered the misery
these huge creatures endure from biting flies,
to escape from which they not only stand for
hours up to their eyes in muddy water, with
only the tip of the trunk above the surface, but
also clamber far up into the hills, being better
climbers than one would think possible of such
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 57
monsters. It must not be supposed that
escape from their insect tormentors is the only
purpose which prompts elephants to migrate
to the mountains, for they also climb to great
heights in search of suitable food when sup-
plies fail them at the lower levels, but they
certainly make shorter journeys above the
plains when the flies are most troublesome.
When, choosing the other alternative, they
seek a water cure, they are sometimes unable
to find depth enough to submerge animals of
their height, and at such times they squirt the
water out of their trunks, as mentioned above,
and plaster themselves over with mud. This
makes them look disgusting objects, but it
certainly gives them peace from the tsetse and
other venomous flies on the look out to suck
their blood, and I am not sure that those who
fish on Canadian rivers in summer, and suffer
torments from the blackflies and midges, might
not follow the elephant’s example and plaster
a little mud on their face and hands. Such an
experiment might be worth trying, at any rate
when the ‘‘dope’” has given out.
With its immense body, long and tapering
trunk, curling tusks and straight, massive legs,
the elephant is an extraordinary creature,
different in size and shape from any other in
1 A chemical preparation sold for bathing the face and
hands and keeping biting flies at a distance.
58 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
existence, though a pigmy compared with
some of the mammoths that once roamed the
frozen steppes of Siberia. I have seen the
remains of one of these in the Natural History
Museum at St. Petersburg. It could not, in
life, have been a large specimen, but, with the
hairy skin, it must have been an uncouth
object and much more terrifying in appearance
than even the elephants of our day.
The senses of the elephant are much as those
of other wild animals. It relies chiefly on its
scent, and the trunk tells it of the approach of
the enemy more often than either its wicked
little short-sighted eyes or even the huge ears,
which, in the African kind, are simply enor-
mous, but which are also, in many elephants,
quite incapable of hearing. It is curious,
indeed, that the largest ears in all creation
should belong to an animal that is almost deaf,
but it is a fact. The sense of smell, on the
other hand, is wonderful, and the sportsman
stalking a wild elephant has to exercise the
greatest caution, as, if the wind should sud-
denly shift, blowing from him to the animal,
it will at once smell him and either bolt away
into the jungle or charge outright.
The cow elephant is devoted to her young
one, and always ready to put herself between
it and danger. It must be confessed, on the
other hand, that my lord, the elephant, puts the
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 59
safety of his own skin before every other con-
sideration. When a herd gallops out of
danger, the bulls manfully lead the way, leav-
ing the rest of the family to do as best they
can. Yet even in this sauve guz peut the
females never desert their calves. In fairness
to the males, we should perhaps admit that
they may realise, either from experience or by
hearsay (who knows, after all, what tales they
may tell each other ?), that they, and not their
wives or children, are the chief object of the
sportsman, though ivory-hunters in Africa
make little or no difference between them,
shooting all and sundry with marketable tusks.
The daily life of a herd of elephants varies
according to the season of the year. In the
rains—I speak, of course, of the Indian ele-
phant—they climb into the hills, glad to get
out of the valleys, which are then alive with
flies. They are always on the move, be the
weather wet or dry, for it will easily be realised
that creatures of such immense size and such
hearty appetite soon exhaust the food supply,
and in order to get sufficient juicy grasses,
tender stems of young bamboo, and wild plan-
tains to stay their hunger, they must travel
far, crashing their way through the jungle,
ripping off great strips of bark with their
tusks, digging up trees by the roots, trampling
down shrubs, spreading havoc and ruin in the
60 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
ryot’s crops and gardens, spoiling whole planta-
tions of tea and coffee, pulverising the native
huts, and doing terrific damage, much of it in
aimless frolic. In the heat of the day they
rest beneath some clump of banyan trees or in
other shade, ears flapping, bodies swaying,
first one foot and then the other being lifted
off the ground. At the hottest time of the
year they seek shelter in some forest of ever-
greens, and when asleep they do not, as some
artists still prefer to picture them, lean against
the trunks of trees, but lie on their sides like
men and horses and many other tired animals,
both wild and tame. We have got so accus-
tomed to these elephants leaning against trees
that I almost hesitate to destroy belief in the
habit, but it is best to have the truth, even
though it be less picturesque than fiction.
For all its great size and colossal strength,
the Indian elephant has an abject fear of man,
and, considering what a puny figure of a man
the average mahout, or driver, is, this docile
submission says a good deal for the thorough-
ness with which the natives of India have
tamed these giants. Of this more will be said
in a later chapter. The readiness with which
wild elephants caught in keddahs are, with the
help of tame ones, reduced to obedience is
extraordinary. It is ludicrous to watch one of
these tremendous brutes taking its punishment
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 61
meekly from some little undersized native
whom, if it but knew its strength, it could
crush as we crush a wasp. That is the ele-
phant subdued by man. Yet a wounded wild
elephant at close quarters is a terrible adver-
sary, and a solitary ‘‘rogue” (or gunda) will
terrorise a whole district for weeks together,
so that the woodmen are afraid to go far into
the jungle and the villagers are held up as if
undergoing a siege. Not every lonely ele-
phant, it should be remembered, is a ‘‘rogue,”’
for the tuskless males (or makuas) are at times
so bullied by their more fortunate brothers with
tusks that they prefer, though not necessarily
vicious, to separate themselves from the herd
and lead a solitary existence.
How and why an elephant turns ‘‘ rogue ”’ is
an interesting question that is always being
argued, but rarely answered in a satisfactory
manner. Clearly his case is not on all fours
with that of the man-eating tiger, which we shall
discuss later. Nor must permanent roguery be
confused with the passing madness known in
India as must, under the influence of which
one of these animals will sometimes run amok,
as it is called, in the bazaars, killing all who do
not get out of its way. There is an even worse
type of elephant than the wild ‘‘rogue,’”’ and that
is a once tame elephant that, impatient of its
bondage, has escaped back to the jungle. Such
62 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
an elephant at large is a dreadful fellow, for,
like the house cat that takes to poaching in the
woods at home, it is far more cunning than its
wild cousins and is moreover indifferent to man,
since in this case familiarity seems to have bred
contempt. The only cure for such is a rifle
bullet through the brain. As to the making of
‘‘rogue”’ elephants, no one knows exactly how
this comes about, though many causes have
been suggested. My own idea, which I offer
only for what it may be worth, is that bad
shooting may have had something to do with
it. This theory may, at first sight, look
rather far-fetched, but let me explain my
meaning. We know, from accounts furnished
by former travellers on the White Nile and
other inland waters, both river and lake, of
Central Africa, that the hippopotamus was in
those days a more peaceful, fearless and frolic-
some creature than it is nowadays, when
trippers have invaded those regions and have
taken to the curious pastime of pumping lead
into every hippopotamus that comes to the
surface to breathe within range of their guns.
This is a disgraceful practice and one that
should be severely dealt with. Unfortunately,
these holiday ‘‘sportsmen ” regard the wilder-
ness as their own, and, not satisfied with
desecrating its sanctuary with their uncouth
presence, they must needs slaughter every
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 63
creature that comes within their reach. What
is the result? Simply, as might be expected,
that the once inoffensive hippopotamus, smart-
ing from its wounds (since these miserable
marksmen rarely kill outright), has lost its
temper, which is hardly surprising.
Many of the aggressive acts on the part of
the hippopotamus arise, in Sir Henry Seton-
Karr’s opinion, from the mother’s anxiety to
protect her calf. The wooded islands above
the Victoria Falls have long served as a hippo-
nursery, and the mothers apparently resent the
presence of canoes.
My reason for supposing that some such
grievance may have had its share in the manu-
facture of ‘‘rogues” is that, with very rare
exceptions, elephants reveal, when cut up, the
wounds and even bullets of former encounters
withman. This is why I regard bad marksman-
ship as a possible factor in having soured their
tempers and driven them to brood over their
troubles in a solitude that only makes them
more morose and anxious to avenge themselves
on those that persecute them. Now, there is
an objection to this suggestion of mine which,
in fairness, I must not overlook. The truth is
that, save in such jungles as those of Mysore
and Travancore, the native rulers of which
give occasional permission to distinguished
guests to shoot an elephant, these animals
64 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
have not been shot in India for many years.
Yet, as we know that elephants live for a
hundred years or more, and as ‘‘rogues”’ are
rarely in their first youth when shot, this
objection does not seem insuperable. Some
doubt exists on the question of whether the
‘‘rogue”’ elephant is bodily expelled from the
herd in the first instance, and the episode has
never been actually witnessed, or has, at any
rate, not been described by anyone who pre-
tends to have seen it. It is, however, well
known that ‘‘rogues” often try to rejoin the
polite society of their kind, but that they are not
readmitted to the community, being regarded
by their fellows as outcasts for life. General
Hutchinson’s view of the ‘‘rogue” is that he has
become solitary and morose because no longer
attractive to the females, and is, so to speak,
cut out by the younger generation.
Of the mind of the elephant we know, as in
the case of other animals, less than we do of
its body. There is, in fact, considerable
difference of opinion as to whether it should
be regarded as clever or stupid. Some even
of those who know it in its own home look
with grave doubt on the many stories told of
its marvellous intelligence as gross exaggera-
tion. They point, in support of their less
flattering opinion, to the small size of its brain
and to the readiness with which it allows itself
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 65
to be caught in keddahs or pitfalls. Yet even
men occasionally fall into the latter, and I
imagine that, in elephants as in ourselves,
there are differences and that one may be
more intelligent than its fellows. Two of the
most striking proofs of the cleverness of some
elephants that I remember reading were com-
municated to the Fze/d by Mr. C. W. A. Bruce,
a Forest Officer in Burma. Mr. Bruce often
watched one of them break off a branch and
use it in its trunk to scratch some part of its
back or sides otherwise out of reach. Still
more remarkable was the behaviour of a run-
away female that escaped, dragging her chain.
No sooner did her attendant give chase than
she promptly seized the loose end of the chain
in her trunk, clearly with the twofold object of
saving herself from tripping over it and of pre-
venting the man from catching hold of it. It
is impossible to attribute any less intelligent
reason to her action, and, if this was not clever,
I should like to know what is.
I am much indebted to that distinguished
sportsman, Sir William Lee-Warner, G.c.s.1.,
for the following interesting notes on sagacity
and memory in elephants. After reading what
he has to say, it is not easy to entertain any
reasonable doubt of the cleverness which these
animals sometimes display, and if, on other
occasions, they seem to fall short of what we
E
66 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
should have expected of them, it is always
fair to remember that we may possibly misin-
terpret their motives and overlook reasons for
their conduct which, though not always ap-
parent from our limited point of view, may
appear perfectly sound to them. I give the
evidence in his own words :
**In the cold weather of 1870, I was camped
out in the District of Nasik, in the Bombay
Presidency. At that time, the military depart-
ment maintained a number of elephants, some
of which were employed on what may be called
civil duties, such as the clearance of forests,
the destruction of wild beasts, ceremonial
occasions of a political character, and so forth.
A certain contingent of elephants had, on the
occasion of Lord Mayo’s visit to Ajmer, or
some similar function, to be sent north. Three
elephants, one from Ahmednagar, a second
from Khandesh, and a third from Poona, were
to meet near my place of encampment and to
march in company to their appointed station.
On the arrival of the Khandesh elephant,
which had recently been employed in tiger-
killing operations, it was at once noticed that
something was seriously wrong. The animal
was clearly ill at ease. Next morning when
one mahout had mounted his elephant, and
another was about to mount the second, the
Khandesh elephant suddenly broke loose
before being mounted, roughly pushed away
his neighbour, and, taking the mahout in his
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 67
trunk, knocked the man’s head against the
ground, after which he tossed the body from
his forearm to his hind leg and stamped the
life out of his victim. Meanwhile his own
mahout promptly mounted the elephant whose
mahout had been killed and, with the third
elephant and mahout, hurried away a distance
of a few hundred yards and then halted to see
what would happen. What did happen, to the
surprise of everyone, was that the riderless
elephant came up as quietly and meekly as
possible, and when his own mahout spoke to him
from the neck of the animal he was riding, he
readily obeyed the customary words of com-
mand. So he descended, and his own elephant
assisted him to mount, as usual, showing that
the fit of rage was over. Such extraordinary
conduct on this occasion was subsequently
explained by the records of the dead mahout’s
service. He had taken this Khandesh elephant
to the Abyssinian War, in 1867, and from that
campaign the poor brute returned in a terrible
condition and covered with sores. The mahout,
on getting back to India, was given leave and
was subsequently given charge of another
elephant at a distant station, never again
meeting with the animal he had ill-treated
until this affair in 1870. He had forgotten
the elephant, no doubt, but the elephant had
neither forgotten the discomforts of the Abys-
sinian service nor forgiven the author of them.
‘¢ Another remarkable instance of the sagacity
of elephants came under my notice in Mysore
in 1905, when Lord Elgin was going to
68 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
witness a Khedah, in which wild elephants
are driven into a series of stockades. Sir
Sheshadri Ayer, the Minister, was remarking
on the comparative failure of the present Indian
head of the Khedah establishment as con-
trasted with the success formerly achieved in
that position by G. P. Sanderson. It ap-
peared that the Indian director, inspired by
humanitarian motives, avoided the destruction
of any elephant that was seen turning back or
escaping from a stockade. Sanderson, on the
other hand, used invariably to shoot all such,
on the sound principle that dead men tell no
tales. That his view was in all probability the
correct one is sufficiently proved by an incident
that was related to me on this occasion. A fair
number of elephants had been driven right
up to the outer stockade, and one or two had
entered by the concealed gate. Suddenly a
fine tusker advanced to the gateway and took
up his position under the suspended gate,
where he proceeded to resist the entrance of
other elephants, beating them off for a con-
siderable time and finally leading them in a
wild rush that broke the line of beaters. Then
someone present remembered that on a pre-
vious occasion an elephant, apparently the same
one, had escaped from the outer stockade, and
it seemed reasonable to assume that the intelli-
gent animal had remembered and used his
experience so as to prevent others from falling
into the same trap.
‘*A step further is reached when an elephant
reasons not from experience, but from fore-
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 69
sight. I once saw an elephant in Canada
engaged in intercepting the logs and trunks of
trees that were floating down a river and stack-
ing them on the bank. The precision with
which the logs were laid, and the ingenuity
with which, as the stack rose in elevation, logs
were rolled up an incline made by the elephant
for the purpose, were remarkable. But the
feat that astounded me most was when the ele-
phant, while dragging a tree out of the swift
stream in his trunk, suddenly observed another
log coming downstream so rapidly that it must
inevitably have swung out of reach before he
had time to deposit his burden on the bank.
In an instant the animal pushed the descending
log, with his foot out of the rapid current,
slightly upstream, and so into the slack water
under the bank; after which, quickly depositing
the tree on land, he caught up the log with his
free trunk before it could sweep past him.
‘*It seems, however, that there are times, par-
ticularly when they have done wrong and are
ashamed of themselves, when elephants lose
their heads. A mahout, passing through
Sangli in 1886, went into a cottage and set
a child in his own place on the elephant’s neck.
The elephant resented this pleasantry, killed
the child, and made off. The villagers raised
a hue-and-cry just as I happened to be riding
through the place, and some police with fixed
bayonets were hastily collected and marched
with slow and regular step to where the animal
stood. The elephant backed slowly until it
reached the stump of a tree, where heel-chains
70 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
and other fetters had been prepared for it. It
was then secured without offering the slightest
opposition, and if it was minded to resist cap-
ture it certainly neglected an obvious precau-
tion which experience might, one would have
thought, have suggested as the obvious means
of escape.”
Those who give the elephant less than its
due credit for intelligence will, I think, be
inclined to reconsider their verdict after reading
these very interesting anecdotes, which illus-
trate the memory, ingenuity, and remorse of
which these mighty creatures are evidently
capable.
I have already mentioned the fact that,
ordinarily speaking, there is no longer ele-
phant shooting to be had in India. The only
chance for the sportsman in that country is to
be asked to shoot a ‘‘rogue”’ or an elephant in
must. The only fatal shot that can be relied
on to kill outright is through the brain. When
shooting from the front, the rifle is aimed at
the ridge, or bump, midway between the eyes ;
but in shooting from either side it is necessary
to know the exact position of the brain, which
is very small in proportion to the size of the
head. All manner of diagrams have in conse-
quence been published with a view to assisting
the novice in making the critical shot. What
the novice invariably does, diagram or no
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 71
diagram, is to empty the contents of his rifle
all over the elephant’s surface and to send it
off screaming. There is not much time to
lose, for if the wounded brute does not hurry
out of range it will charge in the opposite
direction, in which case the sportsman usually
moves off the scene without further delibera-
tion. A charging elephant comes on at a
surprising pace, trunk curled high in the air,
little eyes gleaming, great ears flapping, alto-
gether a tremendous picture of rage and
strength. The obstinate bravery of elephants
fighting against odds is never more grandly or
more pathetically illustrated than in their not
infrequent encounters with railway trains. The
fate of ‘‘Jumbo,” who met his death in this
way at a time when his weight exceeded six
tons, will long be remembered in England,
where he had been made the hero of somewhat
hysterical sentiment on the occasion of his sale
to an American showman.
Collisions of the sort between trains and
elephants are not uncommon in India, and in
the Malay Peninsula they were at one time
of constant occurrence. On one occasion, the
driver of a goods train, seeing a big tusker on
the line ahead, first slowed down and then
stopped his train altogether. Even this defer-
ence to his majesty did not satisfy the elephant,
which at once charged the engine, dashing at
72 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
it again and again with terrific force and doing
considerable damage. Each time the driver
made an attempt to continue the journey, the
enraged elephant charged with new fury, and
the man hesitated to go full speed ahead for
fear of derailing his train. At length, though
not until after his head had been severely bat-
tered, the elephant tried other tactics and
charged backwards. Asa passenger train was
due to follow, the driver felt that no more time
must be lost, so he let his engine go. One of
the wheels went over the elephant’s leg, putting
him out of action, and he was subsequently
shot dead by the guard of the train that
followed.
Such is the Indian elephant. For all its
occasional roguery, its fits of must, and of
rage as blind and stupid as that just narrated,
I always like to think of it as by far the most
impressive of living animals, the type of a
massive dignity that should command the re-
spect of little folk like ourselves, even though
we have tamed it and invented rifles with
which to destroy it. This is why, quite apart
from the possible, not to say probable, cruelty
involved in the training, I dislike seeing circus
elephants made to stand on their hind legs and
beat drums. Such foolish tricks should be
taught to animals of less dignity, and I would
almost as soon have contemplated the late
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 73
Mr. Gladstone dancing a breakdown in the
Monkey House at the Zoo.
THE RHINOCEROS
We know all manner of rhinoceroses best
by the horn, or horns, on their snout. There
are three different kinds of these animals in
Asia and two in Africa, but as this chapter
does not pretend to describe every animal,
the so-called ‘‘ great” rhinoceros of Assam,
Kooch Behar and Nepal may do duty for the
Eastern species. It is a huge, blundering
creature, standing about six feet high and
carrying on its nose a single pointed horn a
foot or more in length. The so-called ‘‘horn”
of the rhinoceros is absolutely different from
those of goats or cattle, being really a growth
of hardened skin. It can, in fact, be removed
without leaving more than a scar, which
rapidly heals, and this actually happens to
these animals in captivity, for they occasion-
ally rub off their horns against the bars. Both
sexes carry this formidable weapon, but,
as a matter of fact, the Indian rhinoceros
fights only with its teeth, the horn being used
only in tearing up roots. So long as they are
not molested, these animals are usually in-
offensive, and when they have been known to
charge without provocation, it has been a case
74 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
of nerves. They are short-sighted and hard
of hearing, and when they suddenly get wind
of a man they are apt to charge blindly, for
fear of being surrounded. In parts of India,
the high grass is both board and lodging to
the rhinoceros, which lives in it and feeds on
it, and must, therefore, be shot from elephant-
back, as it is not possible for anyone on foot
to get a shot. The rhinoceros of Sumatra is
a smaller animal, with hairy ears. It is not
particularly courageous, but is very destructive
in the plantations.
THE WILD BOAR
This animal is the joy of Indian sportsmen,
particularly of soldiers stationed in that land,
who find pigsticking one of their favourite
amusements. Nowhere else do boars show
such fight. I have seen them pretty nasty
when maddened by spear-thrusts in the cork-
woods near Tangier, but an old Indian boar,
which stands some thirty inches at the shoul-
der, is the incarnation of pluck, tushes brist-
ling, little red eyes flashing, charging times
and again, even with spears broken in its
body. Though considered a dainty by both
tigers and leopards, and, doubtless aware of
their fondness for his flesh, the boar thinks
little of drinking at the same waterhole as
THE BOAR THINKS LITTLE OF DRINKING AT THE SAME WATERHOLE
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 75
they, and these creatures must be hungry in-
deed to molest him.
I am indebted to a well-known sportsman for
a remarkable illustration of the dread in which
the wild boar is held by even the fiercest
animals in the best of condition. There are
people who disbelieve the accounts of how the
pig will drink unconcernedly at a pool with
tigers standing by, but the following ex-
perience leaves no shadow of doubt of its
superiority in courage to, at any rate, a
panther :—
_My informant was shooting in the Kinwet
Reserve, Berars (N.W. of the Nizam’s
Dominions), in the month of May, 1g06. On
this particular occasion he was seated in a
machan in a solitary tree overlooking the
Doderi Nullah, a boulder-strewn watercourse.
A buffalo calf had been tied up as bait for
the notorious Gari tiger, an immense light-
coloured and very cunning old tiger that had
been known for more than ten years to the
officers of Gordon’s Horse, but had never got
caught in a beat. Even his pug-marks were
well known, being distinguishable not alone
by their great size, but also by the peculiarity
of the near fore-paw being turned slightly
inwards.
This gentleman has no high opinion of the
practice of shooting tigers at night from a
76 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
machan, but admits that, in the case of hardened
man-eaters or cattle-slayers, it is the one and
only method offering any reasonable prospect
of success.
The redoubtable skzkarz Dafadar Taman
Sing, of Gordon’s Horse, had installed him
at an early hour in his machan, and for two
hours he had kept silent vigil. Nothing was
moving in the vicinity of the unsuspecting
boda until about seven in the evening. Then,
just as the sun was going down under the
horizon, a big, solitary old boar came into
view a quarter of a mile away, feeding quietly
as he moved from point to point, and little by
little approaching the watercourse, which at
that point would have been some two hundred
yards wide. Finally the boar came within
twenty yards on the leeward side of the calf.
Then something quite unexpected happened.
To the horror of the watcher overhead, the
boar faced towards the calf and, with a series
of defiant grunts, showed every sign of charg-
ing across the intervening boulders. It looked
as if a tragedy was about to be enacted, and
my correspondent, supposing that the boar had
scented the calf and mistaken it for an enemy,
looked round in the direction of the bait. Then
he saw the meaning of the boar’s hitherto
puzzling behaviour. There lay a large panther,
which had so far contrived to keep out of sight
“| | | AND HISSED SAVAGELY AT THE BOAR.”
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 77
and which, having stalked to within a few feet
of the calf, was only waiting for the darkness
that would precede the rising. of the moon in
order to make a meal of it.
A battle between these warriors of the jungle
seemed imminent, but the panther was not
equal to it. It squirmed its way to the top of
a boulder and hissed savagely at the boar, but
that was all; and it was just turning to make
off, in spite of the fact that the ground was of
a nature to have given it the advantage, when
a shot from the 8-bore in the machan rolled
it over on the far side of the boulder. The
boar apparently took in the situation at a
glance and, after one triumphal snort, tripped
contentedly away.
A thunderstorm broke during the night,
which gave the watcher the agreeable choice
between remaining in his tree and taking his
chance with the lightning, or descending to
earth and chancing acollision with the Gari tiger.
Next morning he visited, with proper caution,
the spot at which he had last seen the panther,
but it lay dead on the further side, and death
had evidently been instantaneous. Its length,
native measurement (i.e. liberally stretched),
was g ft. 34 in. In any case, it was a large
specimen, and as it was in excellent condition,
such pusillanimous conduct, even in face of a
boar, seems inexcusable.
78 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
Indeed, there are stories enough of the Indian
boar’s pluck and vitality to fill a book by them-
selves, though none perhaps more significant
than one told in an old book of a boar and
tiger being found dead side by side. As an
illustration of the strength and vitality of these
die-hards, the following story has struck me as
remarkable. A sportsman came suddenly on
an old boar in the jungle and took a snapshot,
hitting it too far back. (It should be mentioned
that it is etiquette in British India to shoot
boars only in jungle-country where they cannot
be ridden after.) The animal at once charged,
and in such a desperate hurry that the man
had no time to reload, but instinctively held
his rifle, a heavy weapon, crosswise before him
to take the shock of the charge. The boar
took the narrow neck of the weapon, near the
trigger, between its teeth and bit clean through
it. Then it knocked the sportsman over and
started ripping him with its tusks, but it was
too badly hurt itself to do much damage, and
soon went a little distance and sat down,
breathing heavily, and evidently in a bad way.
This encounter took place towards sunset quite
near the sportsman’s bungalow, and to this he
now managed to crawl without the boar show-
ing further fight. Next morning he went in
search of it, taking another rifle for safety’s
sake, though fully expecting to find a dead
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 79
boar. What he found was a very lively boar,
in the same spot where he had left it, that
actually charged him again with great fury.
This time, however, he finished it off. Few
other animals could lie up severely wounded
for a whole night and then charge, apparently
as fresh as ever, next day. Colonel William-
son tells me that he once had a lucky shot at a
boar, which he could only see indistinctly in
a clump of so-called wild arrowroot. On this
occasion also the bullet struck it too far back
to do mortal injury, and out it came straight
for him. The Colonel took a hurried shot
at close range, and then, catching his feet in
some roots, fell on his back, expecting every
moment that the boar would be on him and
would score his body with some of those
L-shaped gashes that the tusks always make.
As he jumped up he found the animal lying
dead at his feet, the shot having penetrated
to the brain just over the left eye.
Like many other really brave animals, the
boar is no bully. Leave him alone, and he
will give you the path. I recollect riding
one moonlight night right up to an old boar,
with his sow and his litter, and the pigs,
which were digging up truffles or some other
delicacy when I came suddenly upon them,
just galloped back to the hills, the old gentle-
man covering their retreat. An elephant, on
80 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
the other hand, would have shown the way.
A wild boar strikes one as about the last
creature on earth to make a pet of, but I
remember hearing of a lady in India who
brought up a small wild sow that became
much attached to its owner. The adopted
one even slept under her bed and did quite
as well as a watch-dog, rushing at all intru-
ders. It used also to go out with the dogs
when the sahib went shooting, and was in-
variably first on a dead bird. There was,
indeed, only one slight drawback to the value
of this otherwise admirable pointer, and that
was that it always ate the bird before the
sahib could get to it.
[The plan on which this book is written
precludes any detailed account of European
wild animals, but a note may be of interest on
the prevalence of the wild boar, which has
been extinct in Britain since the days of Queen
Elizabeth, in Belgium and France. As a
matter of fact, this animal roams over most
of Europe, though is not apparently found in
either Holland or Scandinavia. In all rideable
country in India it is etiquette to kill it only
with the spear, shooting it merely in ravines
or in jungle where the sport of pigsticking
would be out of the question. At Howara,
also, near Tangier, it has for many years been
killed with the spear, and I remember a Spanish
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 81
nobleman with large estates in Spain assuring
me some years ago that he fully intended pre-
serving it for the same purpose on his property,
though whether he ever carried out his inten-
tion I have never heard.
Belgium is overrun with wild boars, mostly
from the Ardennes, in hard winter weather,
and these audacious brutes even invade the
villages round Verviers during the heavy snow-
storms, seeking what they may devour. Indeed,
on one occasion a farmer was charged by one
in broad daylight in the streets of Jalhay ; and
the boar is so ruinous to Belgian farmers that
it may be shot at sight without licence or
hindrance. Occasionally it gives good sport
when hunted with hounds. I remember an
occasion on which, not far from Bievre, a
falconer, who was abroad at daybreak in search
of a lost hawk, came on an immense boar in
apineclearing. The boar having been located,
the local pack was quickly turned out, and the
boar gave them a first-rate run over the snow,
through Fleurifoy and along the banks of the
little river that runs past it. At length the
boar got desperate and suddenly turned on
the horse ridden by the Master, the Baron
de Crawhez. The Baron, however, snatched
his horse on one side and subsequently gave
the boar the coup de grace, though not before
several of his best hounds had been killed by
F
82 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
the infuriated animal. On another occasion
a drove of no fewer than thirteen boars was
seen in the moonlight in the outskirts of
Esneux, a village in the province of Liége.
Shooting boars is not a very dangerous
sport, because they do not, for all their pluck,
charge unless wounded, and also because care
is taken to post the guns in such safe spots
that it would not much matter if they did.
Still, accidents do occasionally happen, in spite
of these precautions. One day the veteran
Prince Regent Luitpold of Bavaria was shoot-
ing hogs, and one of his guests missed a boar.
The boar did not miss him, however, but laid
him on his back and so ripped his legs that he
was disabled for weeks at Schloss Rohrbrunn.
The technical name for these animals in
French venery is Jétes nozres (which suggests
blackbeetles), and there is in that country a
very dangerous practice of making pitfalls to
catch them in. These traps, concealed by
branches, are a constant source of danger to
hunting-men. Count Joseph Lahens_ used
to keep a pack of the famous Piqu’ Hardi
Gascon Batards solely to hunt wild boars in
the Landes and Gironde. These are long-
eared, powerful hounds, standing twenty-four
inches, and they hunt the boar with wonderful
scent and with a courage that almost matches
its own. |
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 83
HORNED GAME
There is great variety of horned game in
India, including the ponderous ‘‘ bison” and
buffalo, the splendid goats and sheep in the
mountains, with sambur in the forest and ante-
lopes on the plains. Some of the mountain
sheep must be endowed with enormous
strength to endure life at such altitudes. Dr.
Longstaff tells me that, in Tibet, he has seen
burrhel up to eighteen thousand feet, and even
higher, and the gradients that these creatures
have to climb for their daily food are simply
appalling. Of all the trophies, sportsmen most
prize the spreading horns of Ovzs polz and
Ovis ammon, or the spiral horns of the mark-
hor, a wild goat found in the mountains of
Kashmir and Ladak. Like the burrhel, these
sheep inhabit tremendous heights above sea-
level, and they gallop over the rough and
broken ground at an amazing pace, never
seeming to miss their footing even when hotly
pursued. The first two sheep grow horns
measuring seventy-five inches and fifty inches
respectively, and the black and twisted horns
of the markhor may exceed sixty inches. This
animal is found at the highest limit of the pine
forests, along the edge of which its flocks
graze early and late, resting during the heat
of the day. This also is the way of the so-
84 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
called ‘‘ ibex,” a beardless goat of the Nilgiris,
and a ewe is always posted as sentinel while
the rest of the herd feed or rest. The faithful
ewe takes up a commanding position and never
slumbers at her post, though how she is per-
suaded not to feed or lie down with the rest is
one of those mysteries of animal life that we
are never likely to solve. Is it done under
compulsion, with all manner of pains and
penalties for carelessness, or is it a labour of
love ?
The high places of Asia have their wild ox
as well; the famous yak, which inhabits Tibet
at altitudes of fifteen thousand feet or more.
Many herds, indeed, rarely descend below that
level. It is found in the tame state as well as
in the wild; butin Ladak, at any rate, there have
been no wild yak since 1887. How, with such
miserable fare as is provided by the starved
grasses of the mountain-tops, the yak manages
to grow so big and strong is a problem, yet
there are few wild oxen finer than this massive
brute of the mountains, standing nearly six feet
high, with its long black horns and hair. The
yak has been domesticated for centuries, and
among the eccentricities of the pure-bred
animal mention may be made of a distaste for
corn, which it is never able to overcome. | It is
less keen-sighted than most animals of the
peaks, and, like the sheep and goats of the
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 85
same lofty region, it rarely looks for trouble
from above, so that sportsmen often make a
long and tiring stalk so as to get above the
game and fire down on it. The herd is always
on the move, inspired by a restlessness which
there is no difficulty in understanding when we
remember how scanty Nature’s larder must be
at those frozen heights.
The lowland cousins of the yak are the gaur
(which Anglo-Indians call ‘‘bison’’) and the
buffalo. The ‘‘bison”’ likewise clambers into
the teak and bamboo forests in the hills, feed-
ing up to a height of six thousand feet. Most
people are familiar with the animal, at any rate
in the Zoo: a powerful black ox, with a greasy-
looking hide, small feet and slender white-
stockinged legs, neat ‘*‘breedy”’ head, and
powerful yellow horns tipped with black. The
finest of these horns measure over forty inches
across. The gaur, as, with all deference to
sporting nicknames, I prefer to call it, stands
fully six feet at the shoulder, and is perhaps the
most massive of all the wild cattle, as a big
bull, in good condition, will weigh not far short
of a ton. It does not love its neighbour as
itself, more particularly when the neighbour is
a European, but is one of the first among the
wild and timid jungle-folk to desert its old
haunts when these are invaded by civilisation,
and to seek solitudes still more remote in which
86 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
it can hide from the eyes (and bullets) of man.
It has a remarkably keen sense of smell, and a
solitary old bull will get wind of his pursuer at
an almost incredible distance. If unwounded,
he will take the opportunity of galloping off
out of harm’s way, but, if hurt, he will lie in
ambush with extraordinary cunning, and for
this reason the gaur is one of the most danger-
ous creatures to follow up in high grass, more
than one sportsman having paid with his life
for underrating the strength and tactics of the
enemy. It even turns hunter, circling round
the sportsmen as at times lions do, stalking him,
in fact, and then charging with confusing sud-
- denness from an unexpected quarter. It has
also, now and then, been known to charge
before a single shot is fired, but this is a risk
to be feared rather by the silent, bare-footed
native than by Europeans, whose substantial
tread as they go through the crackling under-
growth generally advertises their approach in
time for the wild creatures to make tracks, as,
indeed, most of them, given the chance, are
only too willing to do. The Indian buffalo,
which flourishes in Assam and some neigh-
bouring countries, is a very different looking
animal, greyer in colour and almost hairless,
with a wider spread of horns. Unlike the
gaur, it has no fancy for the jungle, but spends
most of its life in the high grass of the plains
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 87
and is very fond of wallowing in swamps and
waterholes, as its splay feet are of wonderful
assistance when it wants to get quickly over
soft ground. This furnishes a favourite subject
for heated argument as to whether the animal
gradually developed splay feet because it liked
walking in treacherous places, or whether, on
the other hand, it took to marshes because it
realised that its feet were suited to such
conditions. To some extent, no doubt, such
discussions show intelligence, but the ques-
tioners would show more if they did not always
supply the answer according to their own fancy,
and as positively as if the matter admitted of
no further doubt. It is a pity to be drawn into
taking up this cocksure attitude, and is far
better to keep an open mind. Someone has
remarked that dogmatism is puppyism grown
up. Anyway, it is a vice best avoided early, or
it soon grows on us. There are so many
clever people in the world who know everything,
that a few of us can well afford to be ignorant
and own up to it. Like most wild oxen, the
buffalo has amazing vitality. Unless killed
outright by the first or second shot it dies very
hard. Major Talbot tells me that on one
occasion he saw one of these animals knocked
down four times in succession, and each time it
scrambled to its feet and charged again. When
at length the old warrior was skinned, its body
88 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
was found to contain no fewer than thirteen
Paradox bullets, and most of these had ‘* mush-
roomed ” under the skin on the further side.
Even experienced sportsmen have been puzzled
by the unconcerned way in which some animals
receive bullets in vital parts of the body.
Indeed, these sometimes seem to take so little
effect that beginners, who imagine that they
held their rifle straight, are disheartened by
the conviction that they must have missed
altogether. I recollect the case of an old bull
elk in Sweden, which was hit four times, after
which he trotted quietly off into the forest.
Yet it was afterwards discovered that two of the
bullets had gone clean through the animal’s
brain and two through the shoulder blades !
The remaining horned game of India com-
prises all manner of deer and antelopes, though
it is not the purpose of this book to include a
full list. As examples of the deer, we may take
the sambur and barasingh, while the most
attractive and best known of the Indian ante-
lopes is undoubtedly the blackbuck. The
sambur, known to sportsmen in Ceylon as the
‘elk,’ is a splendid creature, though its antlers
do not show the ten points of our Scotch stags,
having, in fact, no more than three. As, how-
ever, the sambur’s antlers may measure fifty
inches, they make a beautiful trophy. The
animal does not appear to shed them regularly
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 89
every year like our European deer, but some-
times carries them for two or three seasons.
All manner of explanations of this curious
habit have been suggested, but no one really
knows the reason. It is just guesswork. In
colour, the sambur is light brown when young.
The hind, indeed, retains the lighter colour
throughout life, but the stag grows gradually
darker, till old stags are nearly black. When
angry or alarmed, this deer has a singular trick
of making the hair on its back and neck stand
on end, as ours is supposed to do when we see
ghosts. The sambur is a child of the jungle,
hating the glare of the Indian sun and hiding
away all day in the cool bamboo glades. Like
many other deer, it feeds up in hilly country,
climbing to a height of fully eight thousand feet
above sea-level. It is less suspicious than most
of its tribe, and often, indeed, offers an easy shot
because of the silly curiosity with which, instead
of taking to its heels, it will stand and stare at
the intruder. It is also less thirsty than other
of the jungle-folk, and is found at times some
distance from water. The majority of wild
animals, on the other hand, are sought by
sportsmen in the neighbourhood of river-banks
and waterholes, and native hunters in both India
and Africa do much damage by sitting up on
moonlight nights, close to well-known drinking
places, and blazing away at everything that
g0 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
comes down to the brink, killing few, but
wounding many. Some people always raise an
outcry whenever anything is said against allow-
ing natives to carry arms, but, as will presently
be shown, it is these armed natives who, more
particularly in Africa, are chiefly responsible
for the disappearance of the very animals that
we aim chiefly at protecting, so as to save them
from the irrevocable edict of extermination,
which has already gone forth against more than
one beautiful and interesting wild animal in
that continent.
Colonel Williamson, several of whose varied
memories of Indian sport I am privileged to
relate in these pages, has often seen cases
in which the well-known lack of scent in
the majority of young animals has_ been
the means of saving their lives. In sup-
port of this. view, he recalled an experience
with a young sambur. Accompanied by half a
dozen natives from Ootacamund and _ their
pariahs, which ran in company with his own
spaniels, he had been shooting in some of the
sholas (evergreen coverts which clothe the
lovely ravines of the Nilgiris), and, having
beaten one of them, had crossed, with the
whole party of men and dogs, an open grassy
space in order to try another, when he learnt
that a woodcock had just left this second shola
and flown across the open land to the one that
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS o1
had already been beaten. No one willingly
lets a woodcock off in India any more than at
home, so back they went through the long
grass, almost doubling on their own tracks,
and there lay a young sambur calf, wideawake,
but crouching close to the earth. The hind
had doubtless hidden it there and told it in her
own fashion to lie still, whatever happened.
The barasingh, or swamp-deer, is a smaller
animal, but its antlers carry many more points,
and the brow-tines (which may be compared to
the lowest branch of a tree) are very large and
conspicuous. Its colour is red along the back
and sides and white beneath. It does not,
like the sambur, keep to the densest portions
of the jungle, but is more often to be found
in the high grass in open spaces between two
woods and nowhere very far from water, which
it needs regularly and at short intervals. For
this reason, it is one of the worst sufferers by
the native practice referred to above. These
men are not first-class shots, and their arms
and ammunition are primitive. Europeans,
with their modern rifles and knowledge of how
to use them, are less objectionable, yet even
they might occasionally set the natives a better
example than they do. At the same time, the
worst enemy of the sambur, at any rate, is not
man, black or white, but the dhole, or wild
dog, with which most people must be familiar
92 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
in Kipling’s stories, a handsome villain that
runs down its prey in packs. From the moment
these deadly hunters get on his trail, the stag is
doomed and knows it, and in such terror do
these deer go of wild dogs that they at once
desert a district at the first sign of them. For-
tunately, the wild dog is not afraid of man, so
that there is not as a rule much difficulty in
shooting it, an opportunity of doing which
should never be missed, as these animals are
among the worst poachers in India. Although,
as will presently be shown, the wild dogs of
Africa utter a note not unlike that of a fox-
hound, the ordinary cry of these creatures is
more like a howl, barking being an accom-
plishment acquired in the tame state, though
there is no record of when or how it was
learnt. These dholes occasionally go mad, like
elephants in must, and in that condition they
sometimes run amok in the villages, biting men
and goats and even, in lonely districts, attack-
ing and killing coolies. They are not carrion-
eaters, like the jackal, but kill their own food.
To return, after this digression, to the bara-
singh, it is also known as the Kashmir
stag and is regularly shot by sportsmen in
October, when its horns are in good con-
dition and the herds are migrating eastwards
through the passes and nullahs of the Hima-
laya. The hinds and fawns, realising perhaps
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 93
that they have nothing to fear, feed close to
the villages of the hillmen, but the old stags
show great caution and remain on higher
ground, where they are among the most diffi-
cult of all animals to stalk.
Of Indian antelopes, the handsomest and
best known is the blackbuck. By the way,
only the old bucks are actually black. Young
males and does of all ages are yellow, but as
the buck alone is shot for the sake of its black,
corkscrew-shaped horns, which measure about
twenty inches in a good head, the distinction of
colour is not widely appreciated. Though this
antelope is a dweller in the plains, occurring
almost all over India, from the foot of the
Himalaya to the sea coast, it is also found in
forest country in the Central Provinces, and it
is here, in fact, that the finest trophies are
bagged, those from the Madras Presidency
being much poorer. The blackbuck is regarded
as a very difficult animal to stalk, which is
remarkable, considering how it makes itself at
home among the crops and in the midst of the
native population. It may be that, in this case,
the neighbourhood of man has taught it caution.
This is the antelope which the rajahs and
nabobs used to hunt with tame ‘‘ cheetahs,”
or hunting-leopards, and some of them used
lynxes for the same sport, but these are no
longer employed, and even the hunting-leopard
94 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
has gone out of fashion in most parts of India.
The cheetah was blindfolded and taken in a
cart until within sight of a herd of buck. Then
its eyes were uncovered and it was launched on
the herd, from which it at once singled out
a victim, hurling itself in its direction at so
tremendous a pace as often to overtake it at
the first onslaught. If it failed, the perform-
ance was over, for the cheetah is not one of the
persistent try-try-try-again order of animals, but
sulks if baulked of its prey and does not dream
of making another effort to catch it. It must
be admitted that it shows wisdom in this, for,
with such a start, the fleet-footed blackbuck
would never allow itself to be caught. The
hunting -leopard is nowhere very plentiful
nowadays, though one well-known sportsman
mentions having encountered no fewer than
five of these animals in a district in which he
was after bison.
LION, TIGER, AND LEOPARD
Coming now to the carnivorous animals of
India, passing mention must be made of the
Indian lion. Not everyone seems to realise,
indeed, that there are lions anywhere out of
Africa. The American puma, it is true, is
known by that name in its own country, but it
is no more a true lion than its neighbour, the
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 95
jaguar, is a tiger, though known as such.
But there are real lions in India, or at any rate
in the forest of Gir, in Kathiawar. They are
small but very fierce, and have yellow manes.
The Nawab of Joonagur strictly preserves these
interesting animals, though occasionally allow-
ing distinguished visitors to shoot them. Thus,
Ranjitsinhji, now Jam of Nawanagar, was lucky
enough to bag one in 1904. Another hunt was
planned for the Governor of Bombay a few years
ago, and on this occasion one of the party,
Major Carnegy, was killed. It is usual to
speak of Kathiawar as the last Indian strong-
hold of this lion of Asia, which is much more
plentiful in the neighbouring countries of Persia
and Mesopotamia, but as a matter of fact there
is no evidence to show that it was ever very
widely distributed in India proper, where, in-
deed, the steaming swamps and gloomy jungle
are quite unsuited to the needs of an animal
that, if we may judge by the haunts of its
African relative, loves sunshine and dry soil.
It is a curious fact that tigers are all but un-
known in the district inhabited by lions, which
makes it impossible to say which of the rival
monarchs would be the victor in a fight under
natural conditions, although in menageries the
tiger has generally proved the better of the two.
The lions of India need not further detain us.
They do no damage outside of the preserve in
96 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
which they are left in peace, and they are in-
teresting chiefly as the probable descendants of
the lions of Bible story in the lives of Samson
and Daniel.
The great cat of India is the tiger, commonly
acclaimed Lord of the Jungle. His lordship is
not, however, undisputed. I remember read-
ing a story in the Rangoon Gazette of a tame
elephant pluckily rescuing its mahout from a
tiger. Considering how mahouts often treat
their beasts, it was an act of touching devotion.
The man had washed the elephant as usual and
was driving it to its feeding-ground, the animal
walking a little in advance, when, all of a
sudden, a tiger charged out of the jungle and
knocked him over. The tiger then began to
bite, and the man screamed for help. Back
came the elephant in no end of a hurry, kick-
ing the tiger into the air with such force that,
on reaching the ground again, it fled for dear
life, coughing up blood as it ran. Yet, in the
great open-air menagerie. which we call the
jungle, even the elephant is not always master,
but goes in deadly fear of the rhinoceros, which,
as Dr. Longstaff reminds me, fights differently
from its African cousin. The African charges
head down and tosses a man ora horse on its
horn without difficulty. The Indian rhinoceros,
on the contrary, charges head up and inflicts
such fearful bites with the sharp teeth of the
‘BACK CAME THE ELEPHANT IN NO END OF A HURRY.”
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 97
lower jaw as to lame even an elephant in a few
moments.
The tiger may be less courageous than the
lion. Several anecdotes in illustration of
cowardice in both animals will be told in
these pages, and, on the whole, the reputa-
tion for greater bravery remains with the lion. .
The tiger may even, in some districts, be less
dreaded by the natives than its tree-climbing
cousin, the leopard. Yet it remains, all the
same, the most terrible creature in Asia. The
natives of India hold it, as a rule, in such rever-
ence’ that they rarely allow themselves to men-
tion its name, even in a whisper. The jackal,
in its master’s presence, utters a terror-stricken
note utterly different from its usual howl. Even
Europeans, armed with the latest rifle and
ammunition, treat ‘‘Stripes” with respect, and
those who know him best take fewest liberties
when he is prowling around. He is the yellow
peril of the jungle, and when he comes gliding
sinuously through the undergrowth there is
great commotion among the lesser brethren.
Squirrels scritch and monkeys chatter with
terror, peacocks and jungle-fowl scream, small
deer fly panic-stricken out of harm’s way. I
have seen it suggested that the dislike which
many otherwise courageous people have for
cats is to be regarded as a survival of the dread
in which their monkey ancestors held tigers!
G
98 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
This curious. fear which many people have of
comparatively harmless animals, though quite
indifferent to others larger and more danger-
ous, seems to call for explanation. Earl
Roberts, hero of a hundred fights, is often de-
scribed as being afraid of a cat ; and I recollect
a case of a lady lion-tamer, who played with
bears and lions as if they had been so many
kittens, confessing that she ran in terror from
a blackbeetle! This only shows how difficult
it is to call anyone either brave or cowardly
without closer inquiry. Fancy anyone who
happened to see the hero of Kandahar shrink
from a cat calling him acoward! (As a matter
of fact—I have his own authority for the correc-
tion—Lord Roberts is not afraid of cats, but
merely has an intense dislike of them.) Fancy,
even, making the same mistake about a lady
who toyed with lions, merely because you
happened to see her in full flight before a cock-
roach !
It is not often that one comes across a story
in which the tiger is written of with sympathy,
as a fellow-creature and not as vermin, but I
am able to include one such view, for which I
have to thank Mr. Edwin Arnold.
‘* Sometimes,” writes Mr. Arnold, ‘‘I fancy
the wild animals know more about human
nature than we know of theirs. All the wild
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 99
creatures’ instincts and perceptions are in their
native freshness, whereas ours are dulled by
centuries of artificial surroundings. At any
rate, | am convinced that they possess an acute
power of recognising sympathy, on the few
occasions when man shows any for them, and
that they entertain a profound, childlike be-
lief in his power to give and to take, to help, or
to destroy, as he pleases. We must, in fact,
seem to the beasts of the field something like
those implacable spirits, always dreadful,
always to be propitiated when possible, with
which our own far-off ancestors peopled their
woods and hills. Whenever the man-spirit
deigns to come down from his pedestal, for-
getting his superiority for a little while, and
approaching the humbler creation with that
mesmeric and infectious goodwill that the
animals are so quick to recognise, he finds him-
self arriving at an understanding of animals’
ways and thoughts that he would before have
deemed impossible. There is no need for him
to be a sentimentalist. Hiawatha, who knew
the heart of every wild thing, ,alternately
caressed and used his bow. I have gone
many a time into the jungle with my gun and,
on coming up with my intended victims, have
forgotten my errand, sitting openly among
them, delighting in their gambols and piecing
together such fragments of their conversation
as seemed intelligible. It is true that I re-
turned home empty-handed, but I was well
content that it should be so. :
‘‘ In the man with an inborn gift of sym-
100 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
pathy, the animals do not resent bloodthirsti-
ness, for that, they know, is part of all Nature.
Even though they still dread his power, they
no more think of rejecting his friendship than
a child would think of refusing the love of a
parent who has both the will and the ability
to chastise. It is not to be denied that there
are occasions on which their belief in your
puissance may be embarrassing and their ,
craving for your sympathy inopportune. The
following experience will, I think, illustrate a
case in point.
‘‘T was walking home through the Indian
jungle in the gathering dusk of evening and,
when still several miles from any human habi-
tation, I became suddenly aware of a gentle,
measured footstep keeping pace with mine
about a dozen yards away in the undergrowth.
I had no weapon with me more formidable
than a white umbrella and so proceeded
quietly, wondering as to my companion’s
identity. It was dark now, and a plaintive
mewing suddenly removed all doubt. It was
a full-grown tigress. This I knew, of course,
from the voice, as the tiger speaks from further
down in his throat, with a wholly different
effect on the practised ear. To run, even had
I been so minded, would have been absurd ;
‘to climb a tree, equally futile. There was
nothing therefore to be done but to walk
quietly on, and I did it. Step by step, follow-
ing each winding of the little path, absolutely
invisible in the shadows, the great beast ac-
companied me through the forest, every now
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 1o1
and again giving one of those piteous, long-
drawn mews so impressive in the silence. Just
at first, I was a little nervous. I remembered
having seen the half-eaten remains of brown
men and women in that jungle, killed and left
by tigers, and it was not by such a process
that I wanted to go into eternity. In a few
minutes, however, my nerves troubled me no
longer. As I walked more slowly and listened
to her voice, I became convinced that my in-
visible friend was in trouble of some sort, and
that she was telling me all about it and asking
my aid. Indeed, I felt quite certain of this
by the time we had gone half a mile, and, as
if in response to my silent sympathy, she came
a yard or two nearer. It may have been that
her cub had got into difficulties—fallen in some
waterhole, from which she could not rescue it,
or starving in some cleft in the rocks of yonder
peak, the inky outline of which, showing dimly
through the tree-tops, made a barren space in
the starlit sky.
‘* For all the rest of that long, lonely tramp,
I was aching to help her, but that was clearly
impossible. I could obviously not wander
about a jungle all through the night and at
the tail of a disconsolate mother, whose sorrow
was possibly vague and uncalled for. Mewing
gently every few moments, the tigress accom-
panied me on my homeward way, up the slopes
and down into the hollows, her great velvet
paws now and then cracking a twig, and over
the rivulets, where she would pause to drink,
never giving me a glimpse of her, but ever
102 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
asking my help in that strange and melancholy
voice. At last the lights of my camp-fires
showed in the next dip. I walked on some
fifty yards, to where the forest ended in a clear-
ing, and then I stopped and listened. The
mewing and footfalls had died away, and I
knew, as well as if I could see her, that the
tigress was sitting on her haunches in the
last clump of bushes, sorrowfully watching
me pass out of reach of her appeals. Poor
creature! My heart went out to her in her
nameless grief. It seemed as if she might be
saying—
*¢* You all-powerful; you, who can give and
take ; you to whom nothing is impossible, who
know my harmlessness and have recognised
my grief; you who perhaps have cubs of your
own, and yet will not come with me a little
way—it is such a very little way—to do that
which you could do so easily! You sympa-
thetic? You to call yourself half-friend of the
things that run and fly? Bah! I might as
well have asked help from the cobra under
that stone, or from the monkey coughing in
the big fir-tree! See! My mood changes ;
my tail twitches ; come back out of the moon-
light into the shadows, and, lord though you
be of the red fires there in the hollow, and of
the thing that sends death over the hill-sides
and nullahs, I will give you a tiger’s thanks
for your discourtesy !’
‘* Poor tigress! I could do nothing for her,
so I went sadly back to camp, but her troubles
spoilt my evening, and I lay awake at a late
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 103
hour wondering what help she had wanted and
despising myself for having failed her.”
The tiger is found in most parts of India,
but it is absent from the extreme north-west
of the peninsula, and is also unknown in
Afghanistan and Ceylon. In appearance, it
is utterly different from the lion, though both
are members of the cat family. It has black
stripes, not unlike those of zebras, on its
orange coat, and the orange grows paler
with age. The tail has no tuft at the end,
like that of the lion, and the tiger is also
without the lion’s mane, though the male
wears a handsome ruff on his neck. A full-
grown tiger may measure close on eleven
feet from the tip of its snout to the tip of
its tail, and, though there has been much
talk of tigers measuring twelve feet, none has,
so far, been recorded.
The tiger’s larder is very varied. Large deer
and small antelopes, tame cattle, jungle-fowl,
peacocks, and even crocodiles’ eggs all figure in
his bill of fare. His natural food is wild game,
and with that he was doubtless satisfied in olden
time before men and their cattle came on the
scene to teach him other tastes. Nowadays,
however, tigers are divided by Anglo-Indians
under three heads—game-eaters, cattle-eaters,
and man-eaters. As a matter of fact, not even
104 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
the foregoing list by any means exhausts the
tiger’s choice of food, for it is known to prey
on bears, leopards, and even other tigers, as
well as on buffalo, young elephants, and tapirs,
the last being, perhaps, its favourite food in
the Malay jungle.
The education of the cattle-eating and
man-eating tiger suggests problems not un-
like that of the ‘‘rogue” elephant, already
noticed, but the process is less wrapped in
mystery. Antelopes are hard to catch, and
young elephants have big mothers to defend
them. What, as Americans would say, was
wrong with a tender heifer from a tame flock ?
Enterprising tigers. tried the experiment with
the most satisfactory results. It must have been
so easy to creep silently up to the herd, or,
better still, to lie in ambush beside some rock
commanding the road along which the native
herdsman drove his charges every evening at
sundown. To pick out a victim, spring at its
head, grip it by the throat and break its neck,
must have been child’s play to a tiger. Then,
when the rest of the herd stampeded, and the
panic-stricken native was probably half way up
a tree, the dead beast would be dragged away
to the jungle and there gradually devoured,
the tiger returning to the kill more than once
and scattering the jackals and vultures that
ravened in his absence. So hearty a meal,
FROM THE CATTLE TO THEIR DRIVER WAS BUT A STEP... .”
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 105
without the fatigue of a chase or the risk of
a fight, must have been acclaimed a vast im-
provement on the old-fashioned way of doing
things, and from that day forth the tiger would
be aconfirmed cattle-eater, never more troubling
about other food that could be procured only
by means less simple. There is therefore
no difficulty whatever in understanding how
tigers came to be educated to a taste for beef,
and the evolution of the man-eater is as evi-
dent, since from the cattle to their driver was
but a step, and the first man-eater may have
killed his human victim accidentally when
springing on one of the herd. Yet, in spite
of this easy explanation of the man-eater as he
is to-day, all sorts of theories have been sug-
gested to account for him. The least fantastic
of these is that man-eaters are aged animals,
too slow and too feeble to hunt swifter or
stronger game, no longer able to catch black-
buck or to pull down a sambur, and therefore,
in their hunger and extremity, forced to prey
on the unarmed ryots and woodmen of the
jungle. There is no doubt that, with wild
animals as with tame (man included), oppor-
tunity sometimes makes the thief, and the
sight of these inoffensive peasants passing and
repassing his lair might, we may easily im-
agine, put the idea of eating one into a hungry
tiger's head. There are, however, one or two
1066 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
undeniable facts which do not, as we shall see,
bear out this theory of the man-eating habit.
The first of these is that the majority of man-
eaters are females the recognised offender is, in
nine Cases out of every ten, a tigress. Another
fact, even more hostile to this view, is that
man-eaters, when at length they meet the
doom they so richly deserve, are by no means
always old or infirm animals, but may, on the
contrary, be in the prime of life and in splendid
condition. Abundance of human food might,
to some extent, account for their condition,
but even such fare could hardly make an old
tiger young again, and the man-eater does
not, there is good reason to suppose, eat a
great many men in the course of each year.
A third objection to the old-age theory is the
fact of man-eaters being practically unknown
in the Nilgiris and in some other parts of
India. Yet we must surely assume that tigers
grow old in these districts as well as in those
infested by man-eaters, even though they do
without human food to the end of their lives.
It might possibly be shown that the natives
of the Nilgiris are more courageous than those
elsewhere, or that they do not go about their
work unarmed. I have no further information
on the subject, but such an explanation would be
of great interest. In its absence, we must cer-
tainly find the foregoing theory unsatisfactory.
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 107
Not every tiger, or lion, that eats a man is a
man-eater by habit. The true man-eater stalks
and kills its victims without provocation. Ifa
wounded tiger should charge and kill a man
and then devour him, the animal was not
necessarily a man-eater before, though such an
experience might make one of it henceforth.
It is somewhat remarkable that the natives of
Africa also regard man-eating lions as old and
worn out, and Livingstone quotes them as
saying of an old lion, ‘‘ His teeth are worn; he
will soon kill men.” As a matter of fact, lions
take to man-eating less often than tigers, and
leopards more rarely still, The man-eating
lions, with which, as told in that extraordinary
book of his, Zhe Man-eaters of Tsavo, Colonel
Patterson had so much trouble while engaged
on railway construction in Africa, took dreadful
toll of his coolies, but the leopards destroyed
only his sheep and goats, one of them killing a
whole flock in a single night. If the leopard,
with its facility for climbing trees and lying
in wait over the jungle-paths, should take
regularly to man-eating, it would indeed be
a terrible scourge. It may be that this power
of climbing saves man from its appetite, for it
is able to catch abundance of monkeys, which,
though much appreciated, usually escape the
jaws of the tiger. Now and then, it is true,
tigers do stalk monkeys, and in some parts of
108 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
India the natives make use of this taste to get
a tiger within shot. In order to do this, the
native climbs into the higher branches of a tree
close to the tiger’s lair and begins to chatter
and to break off twigs just as monkeys do.
This business is kept up until a stir in the
bushes beneath betrays the tiger’s presence and
interest in the proceedings, and then the native
suddenly drops a bundle on the ground and
screams. The tiger, thinking that, as some-
times happens, a baby monkey has fallen out
of its mother’s arms, rushes out into the open,
and a rifle, posted in an adjoining tree, covers
it before it has time to realise its mistake.
Tigers stalk their prey with extraordinary
cunning, but now and again, like all animals,
they make a mistake which may, if turned to
account, cost them dear. An instance of such
an error was reported some time ago in Zhe
Field. A sportsman was sitting one moonlight
night in his machan, which is a platform
erected in a tree, from which sportsmen shoot
tigers and other game at night, and he was
able to watch, himself unseen, the novel and
interesting sight of a tiger stalking a sambur
hind. He could not get a shot for a long time,
for the simple but sufficient reason that the
tiger kept in deep shadow. Then, quite
unexpectedly, it made the last mistake of its
life, for it came out into the bright moonlight.
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS tog
Off went the sambur, and crack went the rifle,
so that the tiger lost its meal and its life at the
same moment. It is always desirable to take
note of these mistakes made by the jungle-folk.
They should increase our admiration for them
instead of lessening it. Some people pretend
to believe that the lower animals never make
mistakes. They are so used to saying that
‘*to err is human” that they come to regard
man as the only creature capable of miscalcu-
lation. Yet animals, both wild and tame, are
by no means infallible. Professor Lloyd
Morgan, who has made a lifelong study of the
mind of animals, calls my attention to the
interesting case of some pheasant chicks cross-
ing an open road near a wall. Suddenly, they
stood as if struck motionless. At the same
moment, a sparrow-hawk dashed over the top
of the wall and easily secured one of the brood.
Someone asked the Professor why the little
creatures did apparently just the wrong thing
in the circumstances. His answer was that the
chicks had learnt to keep quite still on hearing
a warning note from their mother and that,
under ordinary circumstances, that would be
the very best thing to do in presence of an
enemy, as to run about would only betray their
presence by the disturbance of the grass. In
the open road, where, even keeping still, they
were very conspicuous, running away into the
110 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
grass was, on the other hand, their only chance
of escape, but they could not know this, their
instinct not taking the altered circumstances
of the case into account. ~ This may be com-
pared with Colonel Williamson’s story of
the young sambur in long grass, though
Professor Lloyd Morgan does not offer the
same suggestion of defective scent as an aid
to self-preservation. Then, again, we have
the well-known case of tame dogs hunting in
India, which, though they ought to learn
better, never miss a chance of attacking
cobras and other dangerous snakes. The
manner in which leopards pursue monkeys in
trees has been referred to. If the monkeys
would take the simple precaution of roosting
only in trees with near neighbours, so that, in
case of attack, they could jump from one tree
to the next, they would seldom be caught by
leopards. But they are foolish enough to go
to sleep in solitary trees, with the result that
escape is impossible, particularly as a couple of
panthers sometimes hunt in company, one of
them climbing into the tree and scaring the
monkeys so that they presently lose their heads
and jump to the ground, only to be caught by
the ally in waiting at the foot of the tree.
Major F. G. Talbot, p.s.o., told me a similar
story, in which the fact of a tree standing alone
prevented an Indian squirrel from getting away
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 111
from a most aggressive rook, which attacked
the little animal vigorously. Realising that
escape was out of the question, the squirrel kept
up the fight for an hour, when an unlooked-for
interruption came in the arrival of two doves,
which immediately drove the rook off and sent
it in headlong flight. It is not easy to under-
stand why the doves took the squirrel’s part,
unless, of course, they had a nest in that tree,
though even so the squirrel would have been as
likely a poacher as the rook. It may, of
course, have been dictated by a chivalrous im-
pulse to protect the weaker side, or it may,
again, have been just love of a fight for
fighting’s sake, though that is not a taste we
usually associate with doves.
Reference was made above to the machan,
and the success of shooting from these plat-
forms, such as it is, is due to another error of
instinct. The tiger, though one of the most
careful and suspicious of wild beasts, rarely
looks up to see if there is danger overhead.
The majority of wild beasts have the same
peculiarity, and as, in the natural state, they
have nothing to apprehend in that quarter, they
never seem to learn to be on the look out for it,
though the leopard, itself a climber, generally
scans the trees for any sign of an enemy.
From repeated reference to leopards climbing
trees, the impression might be given that tigers
112 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
are in all cases unable to do so, but this is not
the case. Some tigers undoubtedly climb
trees, but it cannot be regarded as a common
habit with them as with the leopard. The
climbers may, of course, be particularly active
tigers. This is where so many of us are apt to
go wrong in our ideas of wild animals. We
do not make allowance for differences in
individuals. We speak of a tiger being able
to do this, or of an elephant as unable to do
that, as if the physical and mental powers of
every tiger or every elephant in existence were
precisely the same. Why no individuality?
Surely no one would dream of describing a boy
as a two-legged animal able to turn head over
heels or sing in tune, for, as we know, there
have been millions of boys unable to do either.
Why, then, ignore the same difference in four-
footed animals? To do so in the case of
dangerous creatures like tigers may have
disastrous results. Some tigers, for instance,
whether actually able to climb trees or not,
seem able, when standing erect on their hind
legs against the trunk of a tree, to reach much
higher than others of apparently the same
stature. When building a machan, it is of the
utmost importance to ensure the sportsman’s
safety by realising the height to which a tiger
can reach, for, though twelve or thirteen feet
would be more than the height of the average
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 113
tiger in that position, the machan should be
fully twenty feet from the ground, so that its
occupant may take no chances.
Passing mention has been made of the
curious note of the jackal in presence of a
tiger. It is very peculiar and is quite different
from the ordinary serenade of jackals in their
own company. Europeans look upon it as a
note of kindly warning to the forest animals
that the monarch is approaching and that they
_had best clear out of his way while there is yet
time for escape. The jungle-men know better.
They know that, whatever may be the jackal’s
virtues, kindness of heart is not one of them.
It is clearly to the advantage of this humble
hanger-on that the tiger should not be baulked
of his prey, for when he is gorged the jackal
has some chance of feeding on crumbs from
the royal table. Yet we are asked to believe
that the unselfish, tender-hearted jackal de-
liberately does itself out of a meal by warning
the small deer that their enemy is near. No;
the ‘‘tiger-cry”’ of the jackal is probably a
howl of uneasy terror, which it cannot help
any more than tame dogs can help howling
when frightened by anything uncanny. It is,
indeed, only in moments of fear or pain that
our domestic dogs forget their civilised trick of
barking and revert to the dismal howl of their
wild ancestors.
H
114 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
As a matter of fact, experienced sportsmen
are able to tell at once whether their spaniels
or pointers are barking at dangerous game,
such as tiger or leopard, or at monkeys, deer,
or jungle fowl. The note in the case of the
former is much sharper and more suggestive of
mingled excitement and fierceness. It is not
therefore surprising that a similar difference of
note should be remarked in a wild cousin of
the dog like the jackal.
Time was when the jackal was regarded
as the provider of the meal for lions, tigers,
and other royal patrons, but we know now
that he follows instead of showing the way.
With reference to what was said above of
the manner in which the jackal is supposed
to warn the weak creatures of the wilderness, I
am aware that cattle-birds may, from one point
of view, be regarded as betraying to the hunter
the whereabouts of hidden buffalo; but it must
be remembered that they likewise warn the
buffalo of the presence of the hunter, and that,
after all, is their natural purpose.
The tiger is a fine swimmer and always
keeps in the neighbourhood of water. The
leopard, on the other hand, is not a very
thirsty animal and, being but a poor swimmer,
rarely, even when pursued, takes to deep or
swift water. In Northern India tigers are
mostly shot from the back of an elephant, as
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 115
sport from a howdah affords most of the excite-
ment, with very little of the risk, the worst that
may happen (and it is quite bad enough) being
that the elephant should take fright and
stampede into the jungle, brushing its occu-
pant off its back and tumbling him on the
ground, with an infuriated tiger somewhere
handy. This, however, is of fortunately rare
occurrence. It is remarkable how easily two or
three men on an elephant seem time after time
to escape the notice of tigers and other wild
animals on the ground. This, no doubt, is
partly due to the tiger’s failure to look for
danger from overhead, an omission already
alluded to, but it is also, we may assume, the
result of his mistaking a single elephant for a
wild one, and therefore taking very little notice
of it. When a number of elephants are used in
beating up tigers, the latter are fully aware of
the danger that threatens them, but a single
one does not seem to excite their suspicion
until the first shot is fired.
Though a terrible fellow to come across
at close quarters when wounded, the tiger
is, under ordinary circumstances, an arrant
coward. Give him a chance to slink away and
he will do so. (Do not give a lion the same
chance, for, though he does not always do
so, he is quite likely to slink in your direc-
tion, which is a very different matter.) Unless
116 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
provoked, the tiger takes good care to keep
out of the way of Europeans ; and, hard as it
is to make the ‘‘ Griffin” (i.e. the new-comer)
believe it, he is probably, unless a cool shot,
far safer in the forest without a rifle than with
one, and all the protection he needs is a pair of
leggings and a good stick for the snakes. In
point of fact the jungle is in reality a much
less terrible place than our stay-at-home
friends picture it. Half its dangers are the
result of imagination, and most of the other
half are the result of lying on the part of
those who cannot bear to return home with-
out having enjoyed, on paper at any rate,
their share of wild adventure. The method
of shooting tigers from a machan has been
mentioned. This entails tying up a goat or
some other animal for bait, and also sitting
up all night. The sounds and sights of the
jungle on a warm Indian night are not without
their attraction, but the results are not as arule
very satisfactory, as some little mistake may
warn the tiger to stay away, or, when it comes
in sight, the darkness may be so intense that
it is impossible to take aim. There are even
intrepid sportsmen who shoot tigers on foot,
which is not a recreation for anyone with
‘‘nerves”; and in the winding waterways of the
Sunderbunds it is occasionally possible to get
a shot at one from a boat. Now and again,
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 117
indeed, these terrible animals have been killed
with simpler weapons. Sir James Outram
slew one with a spear, and Colonel Duff was
equally successful with a dagger.
We are even assured that it is possible for
anyone who may suddenly come unarmed on a
tiger to quell the brute by staring at it. This
is one of the thrilling experiences I prefer read-
ing about. It suggests memories of the re-
doubtable Major Corker in ‘‘ Aliph Cheem’s ”
amusing Lays of Ind, in which, as you may
remember, the Major says:
**T laid my Purdey down, to my shikaree’s great surprise,
And crossed my arms and calmly stared the tiger in the
9 ee ae
a treatment which the valiant warrior repeated
till the tiger lay dead in its den. Mesmeric
powers of this order are sometimes claimed by
vain and foolish natives, invariably with un-
pleasant results. Thus, a Sepoy of the 33rd
Sikhs made the experiment at the Calcutta
Zoo not long ago, and lost most of his face for
his trouble; and a Hindu of Bangalore was
badly mauled on another occasion, when
several villagers, interested spectators of the
great man’s demonstration of his occult powers,
suffered even more serious injuries than he did
himself. In these days of long-range rifles,
hunter and hunted rarely come face to face at
118 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
sufficiently close quarters to allow of these
hypnotic attempts, yet one or two have been
brought to my notice. A case of the sort, re-
ported in Zhe Field, actually occurred as
recently as 1910. A sportsman was out with
his shzkarz (native gillie) in the Himalaya, and
the man was walking about ten paces ahead,
carrying his master’s *450 rifle. They were
proceeding slowly through a thick forest of
cedars when, of a sudden and without warning,
the man stopped dead. The Englishman
stopped also, and observed that the man,
without turning his head, was beckoning him
and holding out the rifle. On going up to the
shtkarz, he saw a great panther sprawling on
a rock some thirty feet below them. The
panther was gazing intently at the native, who
never once took his eyes off it, and the animal
certainly seemed either unable or unwilling to
move. The suspense seemed to last for several
minutes, but was in reality a matter only of
seconds, though time enough to enable the
sportsman to slip in his cartridges, take careful
aim and shoot the panther dead, with a bullet
between the shoulders. He did not feel it a
particularly creditable achievement to shoot an
animal apparently mesmerised, but the panther
in question had achieved an unenviable noto-
riety in the district as a cattle-thief, so it was
better dead than alive. What he puzzled over
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 119
afterwards was as to what would have happened
if he had not had his rifle handy. Would the
panther have slunk off, or would it have
looked away, so as to break the spell, and then
charged the native? The question is such an
interesting one that it was almost a pity it had
to remain unanswered. But in all probability
the native preferred his employer’s solution to
any other. One or two lion stories, bearing on
this same influence of the human eye, will be
told in their proper place. How far such
power may be effectual in the wilderness
remains an open question, but it may, in pass-
ing, be remarked that its failure in menageries
is no criterion whatever, since captive lions and
tigers have, for obvious reasons, become so
familiar with human beings as to have lost that
fear of them which may, for aught we know,
inspire those in the wild state that are rarely
brought face to face with man.
For an unarmed native to kill a tiger in its
cave must be an unusual occurrence, but a case
was communicated to Zhe Fzeld in which this
actually happened, and it was certainly turning
the tables with a vengeance. The natives in
some parts of India have a great liking for
roast porcupine, and, speaking from experience,
I can say that they might do worse. When,
therefore, they come to one of the small caves
in which porcupines commonly lie up during
120 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
the day they sometimes light a fire at the mouth
of it and watch for a drowsy, half-suffocated
porcupine to emerge. A native, with this ob-
ject in view, once set fire to a great heap of
brushwood piled in front of a likely looking
cave and took up a position from which he
could see what happened. Nothing did hap-
pen, and, although the natives of India are
patient beyond most men, he gave up his vigil
at last, and tramped home disappointed with
his bad luck. Next day he passed the cave
again, out of curiosity, and was amazed to find,
lying just inside the entrance, a young tigress
suffocated to death. She dared not make a
dash for liberty through the smoke, not only
because she was probably afraid of the flames,
but for the still sounder reason that she knew
that her charge must inevitably have carried
her over the edge of the rock to a drop of at
least fifty feet into a deep waterhole below.
Now and again tiger-cubs are captured
after the death of the mother, and I am in-
debted to a correspondent for an account of
two such occasions, on the second of which,
as will be seen, the smoking-out method was
also applied, though far more scientifically
than in the case recorded above. It played
no part, however, in the capture of a brace
of cubs during a Christmas shoot in 1905, in
H.H. the Maharajah’s reserve at Sacribail,
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 121
Mysore. My informant was walking along
a jungle-path a couple of hours before day-
light hoping to get a shot at sambur stags at
dawn, when he and his two shzkarzs were
suddenly arrested by the sound of animals
moving in the dry bamboo leaves close by.
They crouched down on the chance of getting
a shot at the animals, whatever they might
be, as they crossed a small open space imme-
diately ahead. Suddenly they saw a tiger
circling the party, with the object of getting
behind and above for a spring. The English-
man immediately put up his *500 express and
fired at the tiger’s right shoulder, whereupon
it vanished down a deep nullah. Just before
daylight, a cub showed up in the tiger’s tracks
and then retired again. Then the day came,
and they set about following the tiger up.
They were not long in coming on the animal,
which proved to be a tigress. She had gone
only a hundred yards and had then died, sit-
ting up for all the world like one of the lions
in Trafalgar Square and holding in her mouth
a huge bunch of grass that she had seized in
her rage. She must, indeed, have been in the
act of springing when fired at, for the bullet,
instead of penetrating behind the shoulder,
had entered the centre of the chest, raked the
heart and come out behind the ribs.
It now remained to secure the cubs, and
122 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
that afternoon they got some nets and drove
the valley into them, capturing a fine pair of
cubs the size of mastiffs. As soon as the nets
were over them the villagers placed the ends
of long bamboo poles on the cubs and sat on
the ends of the poles so as to hinder them
from struggling, while men went close up and
secured them with ropes. The cubs were
eventually presented to His Highness and
found their way to the fine Zoological Gardens
at Mysore.
Within the year, two more cubs were cap-
tured by the clever tactics of Dafadar Taman
Sing and four other members of Gordon’s
Horse during a shoot in the Kinwet Reserve,
Central Provinces, under the following circum-
stances. An officer in that regiment had shot
and mortally wounded a tigress that was sun-
ning herself, half asleep, in the mouth of a
cave. She managed, however, to dash out for
a hundred yards, along the edge of a steep
declivity, before a second shot rolled her over,
dead, on the rocks forty feet below. At the
same moment a well-grown cub was seen to
leave the cave and to go back into it, and
arrangements were accordingly made to build
up the exit, and, if possible, to get the cub
next day. Further investigation revealed no
fewer than eight caverns, each of which pos-
sibly communicated with the rest, and there
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 123
were numerous tracks of tiger, bear, and
hyena.
Taking all necessary precaution against a
sudden charge, the party built up the eight
entrances securely with rocks and_ timber.
Next morning the entrance in which the cub
had been seen overnight was carefully opened,
and it was found necessary, after making a
chevaux de frise of hog-spears, to enlarge this
entrance by excavating the floor to a depth of
more than a foot. It was then found, on
probing the interior of the cavern, that there
was an outer chamber, about fifteen feet in
diameter, from which an entrance two feet
square led to an inner chamber of considerable
depth so far as could be judged. In the
course of these operations, a deep growl from
the interior announced that a tiger was at
home, but whether it was the full-grown male
or merely a cub could not at once be deter-
mined. Two of the regimental shzkarzs, Naik
Athman Sing and Sowar Jeimal Sing, now
entered the outer chamber armed with hog-
spears and made certain that there were no
other exits. A number of bundles of dry grass
were now cut and pushed, with the aid of a
twenty-foot bamboo, into the inner chamber,
and a torch was next lit and thrust in on the
bamboo, while the mouth of the cavern was
completely covered with blankets held in place
124 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
by the cavalry sowars. Smoke soon began to
issue through the crevices and the cave was
soon full of it.
more than once seized bathers in the sea.
Crocodiles and alligators show extraordinary
boldness in many Indian tanks and rivers,
probably because, being held sacred, they get
a very poor idea of human beings. Now,
sharks, on the other hand, rarely, if ever, attack
a party of swimmers bathing and splashing
together. It is the solitary swimmer only who
runs serious risk from these monsters. In
more than one tropical sea I have bathed in
company, with the fins of large sharks cleaving
the surface just outside the reef. I do not pre-
tend that I liked it, but none of the others
seemed to mind, and it was no good making a
fuss. Moreover, the weather was hot, and the
water was cool, so there were temptations.
Such liberties must not, however, be taken
with alligators. Not very long ago, the native
crew of a liner anchored in the Hooghly were
swimming round the ship, when suddenly an
officer on deck noticed a huge mugger paddling
silently up to them, its long snout showing just
above the surface. Next instant the brute shot
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 145
among the bathers with a terrific commotion,
and pandemonium reigned while the lascars
squealed and scrambled for the ladder, up
which the last of them only just managed to
clamber as the alligator snapped its jaws just
clear of his feet. Meanwhile the officer was
busy emptying the chambers of his revolver all
round the brute, which evidently realized that
it had been defrauded of its meal, since it
lashed the water furiously with its great tail,
showing every sign of disappointed rage.
146 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
2. AFRICA
If we still call Africa the ‘‘ Dark Continent,”’
it is from force of habit, for this is no longer
anything but a courtesy title that has survived
from the days of Livingstone and Mungo Park.
Africa has long since been brought within
reach of the tourist. Ladies even travel alone
beyond rail-head in machzdlas, i.e. litters carried
by native bearers. The Uganda Railway
affords intimate glimpses of the Great Rift
Valley and its big game, and it will not be
long, at the present rate of development, before
we have the Sleeping Car Company running
week-end trips to Timbuctoo. Busy cities,
with telephone and electric light, stand to-day
where, fifty years ago, pioneers camped in the
wilderness and heard the lion roaring for his
prey. All this opening up of Africa by those
who dig for gold or diamonds has not been
without its effect on the wild life, which has
been driven back, little by little, until, even
within the memory of Selous and other living
sportsmen, the buffalo and antelopes have for-
saken haunts in which, not many years back,
they still abounded. Nevertheless, in spite of
the inexorable march of civilisation, which, in
the New World, swept the buffalo and Red
Man off the prairie in order that Americans
might grow wheat to cram the elevators on the
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 147
lake shores, Africa is still a marvellous museum
of living specimens. It is not many years
since its forests yielded the okapi, a large
beast, suggestive of zebra and giraffe in one,
hitherto unknown to Europeans and a mystery
even to the natives. Many African animals,
including the hippopotamus, zebra and giraffe,
are found nowhere outside of the continent.
The spell of the African forest is distinct
from that of the jungle in India. The equa-
torial region is more mysterious and further
from civilisation. India has been’ under
European rule for more than a century. Its
jungle supports a dense human population, and
the natives, though superstitious as all Eastern
races are, know a good deal of the wild crea-
tures and their ways. Railways penetrate in all
directions, even high into the hills. There is a
little insect in Africa known as the tsetse-fly—
there are several kinds, but I refer to the one
associated with the terrible disease known as
sleeping sickness—which must always, so far
as we Can see at present, exclude Europeans
from thousands of square miles, but there is no
such scourge in India.
Even where this poisonous carrier of infec-
tion is unknown, the climate of Africa is, in
many parts, almost intolerable. It is less a
question of darkness than of glare. Then,
again, the natives are in every respect, save
148 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
that of colour, different from the Indians.
Most of them are negroes. Their knowledge
of natural history amounts to very little. A
few make brave and skilful trackers of elephant
or lion, but of the habits of wild animals the
vast majority know little and care less. They
would rather have them dead than living, for
they eat every bird, beast, and reptile in the
land, and the traps in which they capture them,
from the great hippopotamus down to the
smallest gazelle, are primitive and cruel. Of
the arts of taming wild creatures and making
them perform useful work they have no notion.
Cattle, sheep, and goats they keep, of course,
and occasionally one hears of a wild dog being
trained for the chase; but as for training an
elephant to haul timber, or a cormorant to
catch fish, they would scoff at the idea.
Elephant and cormorant alike go into the pot.
Different as are the wild animals of the two
regions, they have also some features in
common. Each has its lion, leopard, rhino-
ceros, buffalo, wild boar, and monkeys. On the
other hand, India has no giraffe, and Africa no
deer. India has no zebra, and Africa no bear.
India is poor in antelopes, but rich in wild
sheep. Africa has but one wild sheep (of no
great account), but a grander assemblage of ante-
lopes than all the other continents put together.
But that this book aims at giving most of its
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 149
space to those creatures which, for purposes of
sport, we call Big Game, first place in any
account of African animals should belong by
right to the great manlike apes, the gorilla and
chimpanzee, the long-armed gibbons and dog-
faced baboons. These ‘‘wild men of the
woods” are, with the red-haired orang-outang
of Borneo, the most human of all the lower
animals. They are consequently of supreme
interest to every naturalist who recalls the
poet’s injunction that ‘‘the proper study of
mankind is man.’’ In one respect, indeed, the
apes even have the advantage. They are not
four-footed, but four-handed, a boon which is
best appreciated at moments when, with both
hands full, we find ourselves seriously handi-
capped for want of a third. Christmas shop-
ping may be suggested as one of the occasions
on which two or three more hands would be
welcome. The apes do not go shopping, but
they are able, at any rate, to move at great
speed in the tree-tops, swinging from bough to
bough with a grace and agility that must be
seen to be believed.
The most familiar monkeys in South Africa
are the baboons, terribly destructive brutes,
killing sheep, goats, and poultry wholesale,
and damaging standing crops beyond all hope
of recovery. So costly are their depredations
that every now and then the farmers are com-
150 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
pelled to muster and to slaughter all the baboons
they can find, just as the farmers of Devon-
shire organise shooting parties in the spring
to slaughter the woodpigeons that eat their
young clover. An old male baboon is a
savage customer absolutely devoid of fear.
One of these animals has been known to enter
a lonely farm building in broad daylight, and
when a fierce mastiff was sent to tackle the
intruder, it was the dog that got the worst
of the encounter. No one will blame the
farmer for destroying these greedy and danger-
ous neighbours of theirs, but even though not
sacred as in India, monkeys should never be
shot for sport. They are, above the majority
of small animals, interesting to watch, and there
is, or should be, something sympathetic about
a monkey, whether in its native tree-tops or on
a hand-organ. Moreover, these alert and
nervous little creatures are at times of service to
the sportsman, for, ever on the look out for
danger, they are quick to notice the least move-
ment of a leopard or other dangerous animal in
the undergrowth, and their frightened chatter
frequently betrays the whereabouts of big game
that might otherwise escape notice.
THE LION AND LEOPARD
The grandest animal in all Africa, indeed
the acknowledged king of beasts, is the lion.
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 151
Its black mane (there are maneless lions as
well) and splendid head give it a noble appear-
ance, which has perhaps inspired poetical
notions of its character ; but a full-grown lion,
measuring, it may be, nearly six feet along the
body, with another three feet of tail, is, to my
mind, a more imposing sight than a tiger. Yet
comparisons between the two are perhaps un-
necessary. There is room in the world for
both, and it is only in Persia that the two
meet on common ground. Those who prefer
to regard the Bengal tiger as the more royal
beast of the two are free to do so, and the
impression of its sovereignty owes much to
the superstitious reverence in which it is held
by the natives of India. The negro has his
debil-debil and his voodoo, but he has no such
veneration for Nature as we find in the more
sensitive and intelligent people of India. He
will run from a lion as fast as his legs will
carry him, but veneration is no part of his
character.
The cowardly behaviour of the tiger, which
is rarely known to give battle without provoca-
tion, is too generally admitted to need further
evidence. It seems to be less widely known
that the lion is also capable of showing the
white feather at times, and it may be of interest
to give one or two stories in which the king of
beasts has shown himself anything but a king.
132 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
Colonel D. F. Lewis, c.s., tells me that
he was travelling in the Sudan one night in
February, 1903, with a small caravan, con-
sisting of twelve donkeys, eight mules, two
or three armed Sudanese, and half a dozen
transport servants. Suddenly, at about eleven
p.-m., when the moon was rising over the scene,
a lion crossed in front of the caravan, not more
than forty yards away, and stood gazing at it.
Colonel Lewis halted the caravan, but being
unable in the dim light to see the foresight
of his carbine, he would not fire for fear ot
merely wounding the animal and endangering
the life of his followers. The lion, having
satisfied its curiosity, walked quietly off into
the forest. Yet, after all, this experience does
not show the lion to be a greater coward than
its Indian cousin, for the average tiger would
not have come out of hiding at all until the
caravan had passed. Not the most desperate
and famished man-eater in the Indian jungle
has ever been known to display the same
cunning and audacity as the famous lions of
Tsavo, one of which actually dragged a sleep-
ing man through the window of a railway
carriage. Both lions and tigers doubtless
differ in courage, and one may be more care-
less of danger than another. There are,
however, occasions on which even lions seem
to recognise man as their master. A sports-
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 153
man suddenly found himself face to face with
four full-grown lions. He dared not fire, for
at most he might have killed one of the party,
and, for aught he knew to the contrary, the
others might have set upon him to avenge
their comrade. So, with extraordinary presence
of mind, he unstrapped his field-glasses, rushed
at the lions with a loud yell, and flung the
glasses at them. So terrified were the brutes
by his extraordinary behaviour that all four
turned tail and bolted into the bush. It must
have needed remarkable nerve to run towards
four lions in this way, and anyone less brave
would have fired wildly at the lions or run
away from them, either of which mistakes
might have cost him his life.
Another adventure of the kind, still more
desperate in some ways, befell Mr. Percy
Reid. He had fired at a lioness and wounded
her, having mistaken her, in the long grass,
for an antelope of some kind. Next moment,
to his horror, out came the wounded lioness,
with two others and a lion. Here, indeed,
was a pleasant moment, the kind of moment
in which a man sees all his past. The wounded
beast charged, but for some reason she swerved
to one side and missed him, looking over her
shoulder and growling savagely as she went
by. Then the others moved away. Mr. Reid
asked Selous what he would have done in the
154 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
circumstances, and that mighty hunter gave it
as his opinion, from long and unique experience
of these animals, that if he had managed to
shoot one of the animals dead, the rest would
in all probability have bolted, but that if he
had only wounded it badly, they would have
been just as likely to charge.
Perhaps the most convincing case of coward-
ice in lions is one for the story of which I am
indebted to Mr. H. C. de la Poer (of the
Warwickshire Regiment), and which may be
told in his own words :—
‘‘One morning, about eleven, when shooting
in the Northern Territories of the Gold Coast,
I climbed a steep, rocky hill to get a better
view of the bush-covered plain below, and on
reaching the summit, moving silently over the
rock in felt-soled boots, I blundered right into
a small party of lions asleep. The lion, with
one lioness, jumped up and trotted behind
some boulders about ten yards further on. As
my gun-bearers were some distance behind,
with both my rifles, I could do nothing but
stand there and gape; and while I was thus
occupied, a second lioness rose, literally at
my feet, stretched herself, gave me a long
stare, and finally walked slowly in the direc-
tion taken by her companions. When she
had gone a few yards, however, she stopped,
turned broadside to me, and stared again.
By wagging my hands furiously behind my
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 155
back, I managed to bring up one of the men
with a rifle, a single-barrelled weapon which,
in view of the presence of other lions, I pre-
ferred not to use first. My soldier orderly
had to make a second trip to get the other,
a double ‘450, for the other gun-bearer was
too scared to bring it himself. All this time
the lioness kept her position, showing no sign
of uneasiness, and not even stirring when I
took a step forward and sat down on a stone
so as to take steady aim. The shot knocked
her, dying, down the hillside, and at this the
other two began growling and ‘ wuffing,’ but,
to my disappointment, they did not show up.
I gave them a few moments’ grace, and then
went very cautiously in their direction. Coming
round a huge boulder, I came suddenly on the
lioness, but could see only her tail, the rest
of her being hidden behind the rock. The
tail was nearest to me, but just as I caught
sight of it it gave such a swing that I feared
the lioness must have turned and might be
waiting to strike me down as I passed. In
order to avoid this, I turned back and climbed
the boulder quickly in the hope of seeing her
below me, but, alas, I never saw her again.
Almost immediately, however, we had a view
of the lion trotting away in the plain below,
some two hundred yards away, but the bush
was so thick that a shot was out of the
question. I saw him once again, some three
or four hundred yards away, and, marking
him as best I could by the trees, I left the
hill and ran after him, but the grass was very
156 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
high, and I saw no more of him until, a long
way off, I saw him bounding along clean
through a herd of hartebeest, which made
way for him, but faced him, heads lowered.”
This curious and interesting experience
shows that some lions at any rate think
discretion the better part of valour. Well,
other kings have done the same before now!
Just as a cow-elephant is more likely to make
an unprovoked attack on man than a bull, soa
lioness is far more likely to fight for her consort
than her consort for her. Acting on this well-
known fact, Sir Henry Seton-Karr recom-
mends anyone coming on a lion and lioness
together to shoot the latter first. If the lion
be killed, the widow usually charges at once ;
but the death of the lioness is not always re-
sented in such violent fashion by the survivor.
I have to thank Mr. Percy Reid for two
other stories, of which the first, at any rate,
shows the lion in a character anything but
heroic. Still, this may have been a cowardly
lion, and anyone who should emulate. the
recklessness of Mr. Reid and his companion
might, with a braver individual to encounter,
pay for his temerity with his life. Mr. Reid
was out one morning along the banks of the
Majdi River and presently he saw, silhouetted
on the horizon, what at first glance he took to
’ “ig Seasag, aa
“CLEAN THROUGH A HERD OF HARTEBEESTE.”
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 157
be a fine wildebeest, as it had the curious
appearance of being all neck and shoulders
familiar in that eccentric-looking antelope.
On looking more carefully, however, Mr. Reid
saw that what he had taken for a wildebeest
was in reality a magnificent lion, evidently re-
turning from its night’s hunting to lie up in
one of the reed-beds at the river-side. He ran
along with the object of cutting off the lion’s
retreat, but it was too quick for him, and he
had only time for a hurried shot at about
120 yards range, at the moment when it
reached shelter. He distinctly heard the thud
of the bullet, and the wounded lion sprang into
the reeds with a loud grunt, It was obviously
useless to follow it alone into its hiding-place,
so he went back to camp and, with a friend,
turned out the dogs and native boys, the latter
numbering about forty and being armed with
knives and assegais. The sportsmen had their
rifles, and the whole company set out to beard
the lion in his den. Mr. Reid reminds me
that all this happened many years ago, when
he was young and hasty, and I am bound to
confess that he and his friend seem to have
behaved on this occasion with a want of caution
which, with the average wounded lion at bay,
would have given them a poor chance of es-
caping with their lives. The reed-bed was an
isolated patch covering rather more than an
1s8 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
acre, and the stems stood ten or twelve feet
high. The first proceeding was to guard every
likely exit through which the lion might break
and to send the dogs in after it. The fun
soon began; lion roaring, dogs baying, and
every moment the men posted outside expect-
ing the furious animal to charge. But some-
thing quite different happened. A sharp yell
of pain came from one of the dogs, and out
came the pack with their tails between their
legs. They had had enough of it. Only one,
the best hound of them all, stuck to the enemy,
and he, poor brute, presently limped in view
with his back broken. It is not surprising
that, after such an experience, nothing would
induce the dogs to face the lion again, so Mr.
Reid and his friend decided that there was
nothing for it but to go in after the lion them-
selves. A start was made, and the plan de-
termined on was to cut two main paths at
right-angles and then to beat each quarter of
the covert in turn. Cutting down those tough
reeds, each the thickness of a man’s wrist, was
laborious work, but half a dozen of the boys
went at it with a will, the two Englishmen
following at their heels, rifles cocked and
senses alert. When the party had got about
half way, a terrific roar shook the reeds, and
back jumped the boys, all but knocking Mr.
Reid and his friend over in their anxiety to get
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 159
away, and flinging their assegais about with
so little regard for what they might hit, that
there was worse to fear than the lion, which
never once showed so much as its nose. They
spent the whole day in that reed-bed with the
brute, which often made itself heard, but was
never seen. Once, indeed, it did break a
short way out of covert, but quickly turned in
again. And so the sun went down, the party
were dead tired, and they had to give it up,
hoping that the lion might still be in posses-
sion next morning. They were back again at
daybreak, but the lion’s tracks were now seen
leading unmistakably away from the _ reed-
bed, and, although they followed the spoor for
a mile or more, they never set eyes on the
animal again. That particular lion was un-
questionably a coward, believing in the policy
of living to fight another day, and on this
account the more interesting by way of contrast
with the many lions that have faced tremen-
dous odds and died fighting.
On the second occasion, Mr. Reid was
luckier, though here also he ran great risk of
being mauled, if no worse. It was in Barotse-
land this time, and about the hour of sunset.
He was sitting in camp and had, in fact, re-
placed his boots and gaiters with a pair of
slippers, previous to cooking his supper, when
one of the camp boys came running up with
160 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
the pleasing information that lions were after
the donkeys. Snatching up his rifle and cart-
ridge-belt, he ran off, followed, as luck would
have it, by three or four of the dogs, which
took up the scent of a lion before they had run
a couple of hundred yards and dashed off full
cry into the bush, with Mr. Reid at their heels.
As he proceeded, the bush became thicker and
thicker, and at last he had to stoop and crawl
under it as best he could. It was so dense,
indeed, that he could only push on with the
greatest difficulty, though he could hear the
dogs baying the lion in the distance. More
than once the lion managed to break away
from them, only to be brought to bay again a
little farther on. The light was failing by
now, and Mr. Reid was just thinking of giving
up the hunt when he realised, from the sounds
of the fray, that he must be getting very near,
and suddenly he came on a fine lioness lying
facing him, under a bush about ten yards away,
with the dogs round her. It was much too
dark to see the rifle-sights, so he took the best
aim he could and fired. Fortunately, the bullet
caught the lioness in the mouth and dropped
her dead where she lay, but, with a less lucky
shot, the result of the encounter might have
been very different.
It might have been thought that the disturb-
ing spectacle of a man on a bicycle would, in
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 161
the old days, at any rate, have been enough to
send most wild beasts, even lions, into hiding.
If I remember right, a well-known traveller in
Morocco, who is now dead, once bicycled right
against a wild boar and was charged. Nowa-
days, no doubt, with the opening up of Africa,
even the rare and timid okapi is familiar with
the sight of cyclists, but twenty years ago a
. bicycle must have been an unusual apparition
in the African forest, and it was about that time
that a cyclist had a very narrow escape indeed
between Blantyre and Namazi. The story was
as follows: It was late in the evening and dark-
ness was falling swiftly, as it does in Africa,
with only the faint illumination of a young
moon. The man had dismounted and was
pushing his machine uphill, when, suddenly,
he heard a heavy animal of some kind moving
in the bush close to the road. He thought
that, at the worst, it might be a buffalo moved
by curiosity to keep step with him, as these
animals sometimes will. Still, the sensation
of any wild animal of such size so close to him
was sufficiently unpleasant to make him hurry
as much as was possible on a bad road. When
he was about half way up the hill, something
prompted him to look round. It was well that
he did so, for there, standing broadside across
the trail and looking straight at him, was a
full-grown lion. Even as he looked back, it
L
162 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
charged, growling savagely as it came bound-
ing up the road. He made a frantic attempt
to mount his bicycle and failed ; then failed a
second time, the lion gaining on him all the
while; and at last succeeded, though the
machine wobbled so from side to side that
the distance between man and beast dwindled
every minute. After what seemed an inter-
minable delay, he reached the top and flew
down the other slope, his machine finally
jumping a culvert, on coming to which the
lion fortunately gave up the chase. It was,
however, a near thing, and the cyclist made
up his mind to indulge in no more moonlight
rides in that neighbourhood.
Even the motor-cycle has no terror for the
lion. A lady and gentleman, riding on these
machines in Central Africa, were recently
chased by two of these animals over a distance
of five miles. The lions showed no fear what-
ever of the noise made by the engines, but
galloped after them with evident intent to kill.
The riders outdistanced them and eventually
reached home much shaken by so trying an
experience.
Like its little cousin, the tame cat, the lion
keeps its claws sheathed except in battle, so
that its footprints never show the claw-marks.
This fact has not always been honoured by
artists in their realistic pictures of wild life, but
er eee .
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 163
they would do well to take note of it so as to
escape the reproach of having tracked their
lions only in the studio. The lion’s roar
does not impress everyone alike, since some
of us are more sensitive to sound than others.
Thus, some folk are curiously disturbed by the
scritching of bats, while others do not even
hear it. Much of the terror commonly in-
spired by the voice of the lion depends on the
circumstances in which it is heard. Those
who hear it in the Zoo, knowing themselves
perfectly safe, cannot be troubled by it as were
the Christian martyrs waiting for their dreadful
death in the Roman amphitheatre. Heard at
night in the forest, or on the veldt, its vibra-
tion shakes the earth, yet some travellers have
found it no more terrible than the booming
note of the ostrich, and even in the lower
animals familiarity with lions may soon breed
contempt. The elands and buffaloes that live
in the paddocks close to the Lion House in
the Zoological Gardens at Regent’s Park
munch their hay, perfectly indifferent to the
terrific roaring close by, paying no more at-
tention to it than they do to the strains of the
band, though on their native veldt such music
would send them scampering in headlong
flight. The lion has several notes, purring on
ordinary occasions like the great cat it is, but,
when angry or wounded, coughing and ‘‘ wuff-
1644 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
ing’? in much the same way as the tiger. Like
other cats, it stalks its prey in silence, creeping
and circling till close enough for the final
spring. When one lion roars in the night,
another often takes up the proud challenge.
Then, like rival stags in a Highland glen, they
may meet and fight it out. Colonel Andrew
Haggard, p.s.o., tells a good story of how, on
one occasion, in Abyssinia, this habit of
answering the challenge nearly brought about
a disaster in his camp. He had with him at
that time an Egyptian staff officer, who bragged
so continuously of his own bravery, and more
particularly of his disdain for lions, which
apparently had no terror for him, that the
other natives, tired of always having to listen
to this self-praise, set a trap for him. It so
happened that one of the Colonel’s Abyssinian
servants was a wonderful mimic, and his reper-
toire, an extensive one, included a remarkably
realistic imitation of a lion’s roar. This sug-
gested an opportunity of putting the valiant
Egyptian’s boasted courage to the test. One
night, when the party were seated round the
camp fire, a terrific roar suddenly sounded out
of the darkness only a few paces away. So
real was it, indeed, that even Colonel Haggard,
who had been waiting for it, and who had also,
by way of precaution against stampede, had
the goats and camels tied up, gripped his
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 165
revolver. As for the Egyptian, he fled into
the night, leaving the party convulsed with
laughter. So far, all had gone well, and
everyone was much pleased with the not un-
foreseen result of the experiment. Then the
laughter suddenly ceased, for another roar,
even more terrible than the first, sounded
close to the camp. The ventriloquist had
been sitting with the rest, but he was now
as panic-stricken as they, for this time it was
a real lion that had taken up the challenge,
and he was the last to appreciate so practical
a tribute to his talent for imitation. Fortu-
nately, the brute was driven off before doing
any mischief, but the evening’s comedy might
easily have been turned to tragedy.
Although the lion may ungrudgingly be
acclaimed the king of beasts, there is no
need to believe all the rubbish written about
its nobility of disposition and, in particular, its
alleged reluctance to kill an unarmed man. It
is neither noble nor magnanimous, nor has its
life on the veldt taught it any belief in plain
living and high thinking. It is just a cat that
hunts zebras, or even an occasional young
hippopotamus when it can find one on land
without its parents, instead of mice, and it is
often a hungry cat—savage, greedy, and cun-
ning.
Lions are partial to a young’ giraffe, but as
166 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
the two do not flourish in the same parts of
Africa, the giraffe liking dry desert, where
water is too scarce for the comfort of lions,
they cannot often gratify their taste. Mr.
H. A. Bryden tells me that full-grown giraffes,
like other heavy game, sometimes manage to
dislodge lions that have leapt upon them by
brushing them off against the timber, and he
saw one giraffe, at any rate, which showed
unmistakable signs of such an encounter.
The most extraordinary case of escape from
lions was that of the giraffe seen by the great
hunter of the eighteen-fifties, Andersson. It
was attacked by no fewer than five lions at
once, but was rescued by his natives, who
drove the lions off.
The African leopard has much the same
habits and appearance as its Indian namesake,
and, unless it be slightly smaller, may be
regarded as the same animal. It is, as in
India, the most destructive of all big game,
and kills sheep and goats for the sheer pleasure
of killing, and without any thought of eating
its victims. The natives therefore hate it even
more than they do the lion. A whole flock of
sheep may be found dead at daybreak, each
animal with a single bite in its throat and not
one of the number devoured, the marauder
having just slaked its thirst for blood and gone
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 167
its way. It is not surprising, then, in view of
its habits, that gun, trap, and poison should be
employed against it. Yet, although given to
slaying farm stock in this way, it will, in the
jungle, return to a kill again and again in the
same way as the lion and tiger. The only
animals which we know to act differently are
the hunting-dogs, which, after eating a small
portion of each kill, commonly leave the rest
to the vultures and go after other prey. The
leopard is, as has been said in connection with
these animals in India, quite distinct from the
cheetah, or hunting-leopard, and the two are,
in fact, sworn foes. A fight between them
was once witnessed in the Government Game
Reserve on the Crocodile River. The cheetah
appears to have killed an antelope and was
eating it when a leopard came on the scene
and killed the cheetah in its turn. The African
cheetah seems to be even scarcer than its
Indian namesake and is rarely encountered by
sportsmen, though one was shot during one of
Lord Delamere’s trips in Somaliland.
HUNTING-DOGS AND HYENAS
The hunting-dog, which ranges over Africa
from the Sahara to the Cape of Good Hope,
is at times even more destructive than the
leopard. These animals vary so much in
168 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
colouring that, in fact, hardly two can be found,
even out of the same pack, exactly alike.
When on the trail they show the same indiffer-
ence to the presence of human beings as the
Indian dhole, and occasionally they even attack
natives. On the other hand, cases have been
known in which the negro, as an exception to
his curious incapacity for taming wild creatures,
has captured a young hunting-dog and trained
it (like the Indian cheetah) to course antelopes.
These dogs hunt their prey chiefly at night and
entirely by scent, but they have also been seen
chasing antelopes in broad daylight. They
will run down the heaviest roan or sable, hunt-
ing mute and snapping at the fugitive’s hocks
till at last they are able to pull it down. The
natives of the Gold Coast credit the hunting-
dog with great courage and ferocity. Once,
they say, a pack gets on the trail it never
leaves it until it has killed, and they go so far
as to assert that even lions and young ele-
phants are hunted by these brutes. It may be
that, owing to the scarcity of hunting-dogs in
that region of Africa, they assume the terrors
of the unknown in native eyes ; but Mr. de la
Poer tells me that he knew of one native, at
any rate, who had been hunted and treed by
them, and he himself had an encounter with
a pack which was quite exciting enough for
the average taste. He came on about forty
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 169
of them unexpectedly when they were lying
down round a roan antelope that they had
killed, and the whole pack immediately sur-
rounded him and his orderly, snarling, barking,
and making little jumps towards him, but
never coming nearer than seven or eight yards.
He was, as he readily admits, thoroughly
scared, and no wonder, for, as his second gun-
bearer had bolted at the first alarm, he had
only one weapon—a single *400—and, as any-
thing short of a Maxim would have been
useless against such numbers, it would have
been madness to fire. After about ten
minutes of what seemed interminable suspense,
they drew off, and he bagged one at ninety
yards. On his return to camp, the dogs fol-
lowed and made a ring round the men of about
three hundred yards radius, calling to each
other incessantly with a note much like a fox-
hound’s. Then, at last, they cleared off. Mr.
de la Poer quaintly remarks that, in his opinion,
if they had not had their kill, his orderly’s in-
vocations to Allah might not have been heard
in time.
Of hyenas Africa has three kinds—spotted,
striped, and brown—all of them less attractive
even than the hunting-dogs, since they are
cowardly brutes, terrified of man, though bold
enough to kill a sleeping native. Like the
kea of New Zealand, hyenas have learnt their
170 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
taste for mutton from opportunity, for before
such food was to be had on the veldt they
must have been content with carrion. These
hideous ghouls always gather in the wake of
retreating armies. Large numbers appeared
along the line of march when the forces of the
Mad Mullah were retiring before our cara-
vans, and when the bloodthirsty Zulu chief,
Chaha, had in the course of his depreda-
tions, laid waste vast areas of South Africa,
hyenas simply swarmed over the battlefields
and feasted on the naked dead. In the ordin-
ary way, hyenas are creatures of darkness, but
they are sometimes seen abroad during the
day. Major Kennard once witnessed a terrific
battle between two striped hyenas in India, in
a nullah not far from Muttra. So occupied
were the combatants with each other that they
took no notice whatever of him, so he shot one
of them dead. Then the other began to worry
it, and he shot that as well. This curious
failure of instinct is very common in wild
animals that fight in presence of man and
allow themselves to be shot rather than take
the more sensible course of forgetting their
quarrel for the moment and escaping from the
common danger so as to fight it out in safety
another day. The case of duelling stags is
a familiar one, and many a fight to the death
has been witnessed by keepers in the High-
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 171
lands. Where hyenas feed, there also gather
the vultures. I have seen them come round
a carcase in the most astonishing fashion,
dropping out of the blue sky in a few minutes,
though there was no sign of one _ before.
Either the eyesight of these scavenging birds
must be something quite beyond our concep-
tion, or else they are gifted with some sixth
sense of which we know nothing. The fact
remains that unless a newly killed animal is
instantly and effectually concealed under
branches, the vultures are certain to mark it
for their own long before it is cold.
THE AFRICAN ELEPHANT
In considering the appearance and _ habits
of the African elephant, it will not be possible
to treat the subject at the same length or from
the same point of view as in the case of its
Indian cousin, for, unfortunately, our attitude
in respect of the two is quite different. The
Indian elephant has long been the faithful ser-
vant of man, and, from close association with
its mahout, much of its life is an open book.
In consequence, there are numerous interesting
and authentic stories of its memory and saga-
city, such as those related on an earlier page
by Sir William Lee-Warner. The African
elephant does not come before our eyes in the
same intimate fashion. It has, unhappily,
172 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
been regarded by mankind chiefly as the source
of ivory, and has been killed first and studied
afterwards, so that, while we know something
of its body, its mind is shrouded in mystery,
and whether it be more or less intelligent than
the Indian kind none can say from experience.
Reference has already been made to the fact
that, in spite of the word maxzmus being the
approved scientific distinction of the Indian
species, it should by right belong to the
African, which is much larger. Thus, the world-
renowned ‘‘Jumbo” stood 11 feet high and
weighed 64 tons, and wild elephants standing
113 feet have been recorded from Abyssinia.
More attention has been given to the length
and weight of the tusks, which have been
taken measuring over 11 feet and weighing
upwards of 230 lbs.
Something has already been said of the
differences between the two kinds, and by way
of recapitulation it may here be mentioned
that the chief points to note in the African
elephant are—
Larger size,
Larger ears,
Longer and heavier tusks,
Females bearing tusks equal to those
of the males,
Trunk less tapered and with two
‘*fingers’’ instead of only one.
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 173
The African elephant is said by those who
know both to be much fiercer and more savage
than the Indian animal, which is hardly to be
wondered at when we remember that the
moment an African elephant is seen outside of
a Government reserve it becomes a target for
all and sundry, native and European alike.
It is a great traveller in search of food, and
its wanderings take it high above the plains
and far up the green slopes of Mount Kenia.
It is also a coarser feeder than the Indian
kind, using one of its tusks, generally the
right one, to prise up mimosa and other trees,
from which it then strips twigs, leaves and
bark. Its huge ears, at all times conspicuous,
assume a frightful appearance when it is
charging, for they then stand out at right
angles to the head like the wings of some
angry demon, and at such moments its trumpet-
ing is nothing less than deafening. Its powers
of eyesight and hearing are only moderately
developed, but it has a very keen sense of
smell.and must be stalked very carefully up-
wind. If suddenly disturbed at close quarters,
it is apt to charge before a shot is fired, and on
such occasions the female is considered the
more dangerous of the two.
In some parts of Africa, elephants with only
one tusk are not uncommon, and these are
invariably the worst-tempered in the herd, per-
174 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
haps because they smart under the handicap
imposed on them by the want of a second tusk,
or possibly from actual pangs of toothache.
Mention has been made of the fact that, in
the ordinary way, elephant -shooting is no
longer permitted in India, and even in Africa
the Powers, waking, as is their habit, a little
late to their responsibilities, are at last framing
regulations to save the remnant of these splen-
did animals. In some districts, however, the
big game hunter may, after taking the pre-
scribed licence, still enjoy the supreme excite-
ment of an encounter with the greatest animal
on earth, running risks that not even the most
perfect rifles can ever quite eliminate, and
Major V. R. Whitla sends me the following
account of a ‘‘right and left’ at these animals in
North-Eastern Rhodesia, from which it will be
gathered that he did not get his ivory for the
asking :
‘One Christmas, not long ago, I was camped
near Ndombo’s village in North-Eastern Rho-
desia. I had left Broken Hill, just over two
thousand miles from Cape Town and at that
time the terminus of the railway, early in July,
and, after a very pleasant six months up country,
was now on my way down to Mpika, from
which spot a three weeks’ march would take
me back to Broken Hill and civilisation. The
heavy rains had set in on December 12, turning
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 175
every small stream into a howling torrent and
so spoiling the shooting that I had decided
to go back. One morning, however, saw an
abrupt change in all my plans, as my tracker,
a local savage named Makale, brought me
word that two of his friends had seen three big
bull elephants a day or two before at a place
not much more than twenty miles east of where
we were encamped. I confess that, just at
first, I was much inclined to doubt the story,
as Makale, who had been with me about a
month, had proved himself not only a first-rate
tracker, but also a persistent liar. The friends
were, however, produced and strenuously cross-
examined separately by my headman Benjamin,
and their accounts agreed so accurately that
there seemed no further room for doubt.
‘* The first step was to take out a new licence,
costing £25, as all game licences in that dis-
trict expire on December 31, and this entailed
two long marches to Mpika, one of the stations
in North-Eastern Rhodesia at which licences
are issued by the authorities.
‘*The next thing, which proved more labori-
ous, was to get across the Nyamadzi River,
then in full flood, as the elephants had been
sighted near a village called Kafwimbi, about
twenty miles away on the other side. At other
times of year this river may be forded without
difficulty, but the heavy rains had swelled it
to formidable proportions, and, as no dug-out
was to be had locally, there was nothing for
it but to build a boat for ourselves. My men
set to, selecting a particular tree with thick
176 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
but flexible bark, and then removing a piece of
this bark of the required length in one piece
without felling the tree. The ends were then
folded across and sewn together, the crevices
being filled with clay, a split bamboo being
sewn round the top to form a gunwale, and
two or three cross-pieces being attached to
stiffen the frame and lessen any tendency to
collapse. Asa result of this ingenious carpen-
tering, I was presently in possession of a light
and watertight canoe, about 12 feet long and
3 feet broad, capable of holding six or seven
men. At the first launch we found that the
current was too strong to allow of either poling
or paddling, but my porters soon rigged up a
long rope of plaited bark, which was fastened
to trees low down on either bank by a man
who managed to take one end of it and swim
across, and by this means we got the porters
and their loads across without accident.
‘“We now had to make two marches to
Kafwimbi, as the going *was bad, several
streams, insignificant during the dry season,
being now so big that it was found necessary
to halt while trees were felled and laid across.
On the second day’s march I came upon fairly
fresh spoor of cow elephants, as well as fresh
spoor of three rhinos, which are common in
that part of the country. These, however, we
did not follow, as I did not want to frighten
the elephants away by firing at other game.
‘On reaching Kafwimbi’s, I interviewed the
chief, who told me that some of his men had
seen the spoor of a very big bull elephant not
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 177
far off the day before, and he offered to come
with us next day to show me the ground.
‘‘Next morning I was called at 4 a.m., but it
was raining heavily, so that I did not make a
start until 7, by which time the rain had
ceased, though the sky looked threatening.
Up to 10, we could find no fresh tracks, but
we then met two natives who, in going from
one village to another, told us that they had
crossed fresh tracks of three bulls only about a
mile back. We set off in that direction, and
easily picked up the spoor in the soft ground.
Owing, however, to the quantity of rain that
had fallen during the night, it was hard to say
exactly how old it was. I judged it to be not
more than from twelve to eighteen hours old,
and well worth following up, particularly as
one, at any rate, was the spoor of a very big
bull, the prints of his forefeet measuring just
over 21 inches from toe to heel, whilst the other
two measured 18 and 184 respectively.
‘‘Owing to the water-logged state of the
country, the going was bad and tiring, and
much time was lost in crossing the numerous
streams in our way, but the spoor was very
plain and we were never at fault. After going
a few miles, we came to a low bank of soft
earth which bore the distinct impressions of
the bodies of all three elephants, showing that
they had rested there during the night or very
early that morning. ‘This was a very interest-
ing sight to me, as I had often been told by
hunters that elephants never lie down to rest,
but sleep standing or else leaning against trees,
M
178 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
Yet here was undeniable evidence of their lying
down, and, as a matter of fact, I had come
across similar proof of this habit when tracking
a solitary elephant a month earlier.
‘* After their siesta, the three bulls had moved
on, feeding at intervals, as was apparent from
the way in which, though always moving in
one direction, the tracks kept diverging and
recrossing. We stuck to the spoor of the
biggest, which was very easy to follow, and
kept to it until three in the afternoon, when it
was evident from various signs that the ele-
phants were not far away. Soon afterwards I
saw an elephant standing in a comparatively
clear patch about 200 yards away on our left
front, and at the same moment I descried a
single zebra grazing his way slowly across this
patch towards the forest on the far side. We,
therefore, halted immediately under cover, so
as to let the zebra move on, as these animals
have a most irritating habit, the moment they
see the hunter, of galloping wildly round in
circles, about 150 yards distant, unavoidably
giving the alarm to all other wild animals in
the neighbourhood, and spoiling all chance of
ashot. This annoying habit is shared by the
kyang, or wild donkey, of Tibet and Ladak,
which has in such fashion ruined many a care-
ful stalk of mine after antelope or Ovis
Ammon.
‘¢Tt was fully a quarter of an hour before we
deemed that the wretched zebra had got far
enough into the forest to make it safe to pro-
ceed, and during this trying interval the
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 179
elephant must have got slight wind of us, as
he twice faced in our direction, with ears
cocked and trunk extended, and finally moved
slowly off, fortunately up-wind. I had, in the
meantime, had ample opportunity of examining
him through my Zeiss glasses, and made him
out to be a bull of ordinary size with tusks of
apparently about 30 lbs. each, but I could not
see whether the other two were in the forest
beyond. I concluded, however, that it was
best to follow him, on the assumption that,
even if they were not with him, he would
certainly be making his way to rejoin them,
and this luckily proved to be the case, for
when he had gone another mile he suddenly
halted in some fairly thick cover, in which I
was able to make out the tails and _ hind-
quarters of two others.
‘*T now made the four natives with me go
back some distance and sit down, as I knew
none of them well enough to trust him with a
second rifle, and I preferred to advance alone,
carrying my double ‘400 cordite ejector, to-
wards the cover, which was straight up-wind.
As I proceeded, the elephants went slowly for-
ward, and on reaching the spot where they
had previously stood, I found that the thick
patch extended only some 50 yards farther,
and that beyond it lay an open patch of some
three or four acres. To my surprise I now
saw, standing in this, within about 4o yards
of the nearest trees, not three, but four ele-
phants, one of them much bigger than the
rest, and evidently the animal whose spoor I
18 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
had been following the whole day. They were
halted in close order, the head and shoulders
of the big one being covered from a shot by
the body of one of its fellows. I therefore
sat down just inside the edge of the cover and
examined them carefully through my glasses,
and soon made out that they were all bulls.
The tusks of the big one were disappointing,
and I did not estimate them at over 50 or 60 lbs.
apiece. Then came a tuskless bull, the first I
had seen during six months in that part of
Rhodesia. Of the other two, the one that I
had first sighted alone seemed to carry short
tusks of about 30 lbs. each, and the fourth had
longer and thinner tusks which would prob-
ably weigh 40 lbs. each.
‘‘T had to wait about a quarter of an hour
at the edge of the clearing before I could get
a shot at the head of the biggest, but at last he
faced in my direttion, and I took aim between
the eye and earhole and fired. He fell to the
shot, struggled half-way to his feet, and then
my left barrel knocked him over again. Until
I fired the second shot, the other elephants,
which were standing close together, had
scarcely moved; but on hearing the second
report one of them turned tail and bolted,
going nearly straight away from me, while the
other two came at a rapid pace right for the
little tree against which I was standing. I
seemed to be in for a charge by the two un-
wounded elephants, and the prospect was not
a pleasing one, for there was not a solitary
tree of sufficient size to have afforded shelter,
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 181
or one that an elephant would not have knocked
down without effort. Mature reflection after-
wards convinced me that the animals had never
meant charging at all, but were merely panic-
stricken and trying to escape, choosing my
direction by mere coincidence. Had they really
meant mischief, they would have come on
screaming and with trunks. curled in the air.
They did neither, but came with trunks down
and without uttering a sound. All the same,
there was no time for these comforting reflec-
tions at the moment, for in a very few seconds
they were almost on top of me, leaving me
barely time to reload one barrel of my rifle,
the ejector of which fortunately worked well.
I then fired at the chest of the leading bull,
the one with the long, thin tusks, with the idea
of turning him on one side. The shot was a
lucky one, as it went through the trunk and
lodged at the juncture of chest and neck. On
firing, I jumped on one side, but quite un-
necessarily as it proved, for on being hit he
stumbled to his knees, then, immediately re-
covering himself, went off faster than ever,
followed, to my intense relief, by the tuskless
one. A little later we found him stone dead
about 150 yards from the spot, and I afterwards
found that, when hit, he had been within ten
paces of me!
‘‘It was too late to cut out the tusks that
evening, as we were a long way from camp,
which I reached, very wet and tired, about
seven in the evening, having covered in all
some twenty-five miles, much of it through
182 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
heavy mud. Next morning, my porters, sixty
in number, accompanied by practically all the
villagers, marched the ten or eleven miles and
proceeded to cut up the elephants. I did not
accompany them on this occasion, knowing
from experience what a disgusting spectacle
it would be, and confident also that my head-
man would see the tusks cut out without
injury. They were all away till the following
morning, when they straggled back to camp
with the tusks and meat. The tusks were as
follows :—
Length. Girth. Weight.
Big Elephant—Right tusk . 5 ft. 8} in. 16}in. 52 lbs.
Left ,, . 4.8 in. 162m. 49 Ibs.
Small _,, Right ,, . 5 ft. 1 in. 4154in. 36 Ibs.
Left: °: 302-308 fh © 40. 155 I0.- 97 Tos.
‘*It must be confessed that the tusks of the
big elephant were disappointing, as the animal
was an uncommonly big one, and, judging
from the appearance of his skin, of great age.
They had evidently been broken off at some
period, and the left one, more particularly, was
very short. On cutting him up, the men
found two native bullets of hammered iron in
him.”
The concluding remark in Major Whitla’s
interesting story bears out what was said on an
earlier page. Few elephants attain any great
age without having been shot at and wounded,
and these encounters doubtless have their
effect on the victim’s temper.
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 183
Only one kind of African elephant has
hitherto been generally known, but a year or
two ago the Zast African Standard published
particulars of a somewhat mysterious ‘‘ water-
elephant,” as it was called, discovered by a
Frenchman in a lake in the Congo. It seems
to be of smaller build than the ordinary kind,
with short ears and no tusks. Further evi-
dence, however, seems desirable before taking
this creature very seriously, though, in view of
the recent discovery of the okapi, it is unsafe
to predict that Africa may not have other sur-
prises in store.
RHINOCEROS
There are—perhaps it would be more accu-
rate to say there were—two kinds of African
rhinoceros. The white, or square-mouthed
kind, also named after Burchell, is all but
extinct, and only the black kind survives in
any numbers in the wild state.
As a matter of fact, the ‘‘ white” rhinoceros
of Africa no more deserves its name than the
‘‘white”’ elephant of Burma, for it is grey,
and the same may be said of the ‘‘black”’
kind. Each of them carries two horns on the
snout. In the square-mouthed rhinoceros the
fore-horn has been known to measure over
62 in., whereas the longest recorded fore-horn
in the black rhinoceros was only 44 in. In-
184 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
deed, it is only in South and East Africa that
it has horns of even that length. The second
horn in both kinds is always smaller and grows
straight, whereas the other is curved, usually
backward, though in some specimens it points
forward. No doubt the animal knows how to
turn it to account, whichever way it grows,
and, as has been mentioned above, the African
rhinoceros uses the horn for tossing its enemy,
whereas the Indian fights chiefly with its teeth.
The rare ‘‘white” rhinoceros is the taller
and heavier beast of the two, standing a little
over 6 ft. at the shoulder, whereas the largest
known black rhinoceros would be _ several
inches shorter. The most conspicuous differ-
ence between the two, however, is in neither
size nor colouring, but in the shape of the
upper lip, a sure cluie to the food preferred by
the animal. In the black, the upper lip over-
hangs the lower like a finger. In other words,
the animal is ‘‘prehensile-lipped,” or able to
pick leaves off bushes, browsing on acacia and
other low trees within its reach. Burchell’s
rhinoceros, on the other hand, has a square
mouth and is a grazing animal, living out on
the open plains, and not in the forests which
are the home of the other. Its day is done.
Its old haunts know it no more, and even
Selous, greatest of living hunters, would be
puzzled to find one to-day in the length and
”
“THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS USES ITS HORN FOR TOSSING ITS ENEMY.
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 185
breadth of South Africa. It must be looked
for in East Africa, and should be strictly pre-
served. Unfortunately, Mr. Roosevelt and his
son shot nine between them. No one can
fairly blame these American sportsmen for
availing themselves of the invitation to shoot
all manner of game in British territory, but
let us hope that those nine may be the last to
fal] to the rifle for many a long year.
The black rhinoceros may still be described
as fairly plentiful as far north as Abyssinia.
Those who have shot and watched these
animals in the two continents where they are
still found (time was, before the dawn of the
period we call history, when they roamed over
Europe) are unanimous as to their character,
describing them as_ stupid, short-sighted,
blundering brutes, much given to attacks of
nerves, easily panic-stricken, and at such
moments apt to charge blindly the moment
they get wind of the hunter, not so much in
malice as for fear of being surrounded. There
will always be differences of opinion about the
character of the lion and tiger, but no such
uncertainty seems to invest that of the rhi-
noceros. Fortunately its eyesight is so poor
that its charge can easily be avoided at the
last moment.
Much nonsense has been written about the
thickness of the animal’s hide, which has been
186 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
described as capable of turning bullets even
at short range, and it may be that these fables
date from the days of primitive guns and in-
sufficient charges of powder, which may have
had no more effect on these thick-skinned
animals than a peashooter on a pig. Modern
ammunition, however, makes short work of
the rhinoceros; moreover, apart from such
vulnerability, we must remember that its hide
cannot even withstand the attacks of the tsetse-
fly, which feeds greedily on its blood. It is,
nevertheless, an immensely powerful animal,
and few others are so hard to kill ; for it dies so
slowly that very often, when one is seemingly
dead from spear or bullet wounds, it will rally
and either charge the enemy or gallop away
out of reach. The rhinoceros is said to be
irresistibly attracted by fire. A creature of
such bulk hardly seems comparable to a moth
flying into the candle-flame, but it is a fact
that, attracted in some unaccountable fashion,
the rhinoceros sometimes charges right into a
camp fire. Elephants have a similar habit of
trampling on fires, with the result that they
occasionally spread the embers, and have even
been known in this way to set fire to native
villages.
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 187
HIPPOPOTAMUS
The hippopotamus is one of those few really
ugly beasts in Nature which, if we did not
know it to be real, we might think of as a
creature seen only in nightmares. When we
come to think of it, there are not very many
quadrupeds at all events so disgusting to look
at. The wart-hog is another, and the Tas-
manian devil a third. In its way, however,
the hippopotamus is without a rival, since not
only is its face, particularly with the jaws open,
among the most uncouth in all creation, but,
seeing that it weighs, when full-grown, three
or four tons, and that its length and girth are
about the same, or approximately twelve feet,
it has also the most ungainly figure in existence,
being, in fact, three times as long as it is high.
The hide is devoid of hair and studded with
warts. The eyes are small, as are also the
ears, which stand erect. Our name for the
animal means ‘‘ river-horse,” and the Germans,
with their usual passion for detail, call it by a
word meaning ‘‘ Nile-horse” ; yet it is about as
unlike a horse as any creature well could be.
There is a much smaller kind in West Africa,
a fairy-like creature weighing only three or
four hundredweight, and little seems to be
known of its habits. The larger species is no
longer to be found in South Africa, where it
188 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
was common in the old days, but still exists
in the lakes and rivers of Central Africa, where
tourists are unfortunately permitted to shoot it
without making the least attempt to recover
the body. This wickedness should be strictly
forbidden by the captains of steamers on the
Upper Nile, whether on Government boats or
not. In view of the reception the hippopotamus
meets with on coming to the surface, it is not
surprising to learn that it spends most of its
existence underwater, being able to remain
below for five or ten minutes and actually
walking on the bed of the river. A man
standing on the edge of a swimming-bath with
a loaded gun would soon teach even the most
reluctant pupil to swim under water, and refer-
ence was made on an earlier page to the un-
fortunate effect which such treatment has had
on the once-serene temper of these water-
babies. I have seen it suggested by apologists
of the tourist that this is also the work of the
trap with which the natives of the Congo and
Zambesi regions catch these creatures, a device
which, while it would be unpardonably cruel
in the hands of white men with firearms, is
quite legitimate for unarmed blacks who have
to keep themselves from starvation as_ best
they can. This trap is constructed as follows :
An immense block of wood, into the heavier
end of which is welded a long metal harpoon,
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 189
is hung from a tree over a spot on the bank
where these animals are known to be in the
habit of coming ashore. A long line, with a
buoy at the end, is also tied to the harpoon
and a rope is fastened across the path so that
the animal, forcing its way past the obstacle,
automatically releases the weighted harpoon,
which falls on its back and pierces the hide.
The unfortunate creature, now in great pain,
dashes back into the water and makes frantic
but futile efforts to rid itself of the instrument
of torture, which, however, sticks fast, like a
banderilla in a bull. As its movements under
water are betrayed by the tell-tale buoy, it has
no chance of escaping from its enemies, who
follow in their canoes, thrusting a spear into it
whenever it comes up to breathe. Then the
end comes, and the great carcase is cut up
and divided among the hungry hunters. It is
a horrible, if necessary, business, but I do not
believe that the practice has spoilt the temper
of a single hippopotamus, for the simple reason
that the victim never escapes alive. The stray
bullet of the tourist is quite another matter, for
it wounds the poor beast just enough to madden
itand no more. The ‘‘sportsman” then goes
on his way, and one more furious hippopotamus
is added to the long list of those thirsting to
avenge themselves on the tyrant man.
The hippopotamus feeds chiefly on the water-
190 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
plants of its native river or lake, but it also
clambers on shore and makes extensive raids
on any cultivated land in the neighbourhood,
making short work of any plantation in its
path and trampling underfoot what it does not
eat. Crops over which a hippopotamus has
wandered are of no great value that season.
Farmers at home, who cry out now and then
when any follower of hounds may “‘accidentally”’
cut off a corner of a field, should try a hippo-
potamus or two. The hippopotamus at the
Zoo looks peaceful enough, even when it opens
its fearful mouth for buns and biscuits, but it
shows a nasty temper at times. I remember
an occasion on which it, or its predecessor,
killed a terrier that had got into its enclosure.
Whether it actually ate the dog, I forget; but
if its appetite is as accommodating as that of its
cousin the pig, there is no reason why it should
not have done so.
GIRAFFE AND ZEBRA
The extraordinary resources of Africa as a
storehouse of strange and interesting wild
animals could hardly be more strikingly
illustrated than by the fact that it is the only
continent producing at once the hippopotamus
and the giraffe, the one modelled on a baggage-
van, the other an Eiffel Tower of an animal
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 191
and incomparably the most graceful of all big
game. The height of the giraffe always as-
tonishes those who see it for the first time, and
I always remember the amusing fascination
which one at the Zoo had for some Moors
whom I once showed round the Gardens, for
although natives of the same continent, they
had never even suspected the existence of a
creature half again as tall as the biggest
elephant, or eighteen feet from the ground to
the tips of its make-believe horns. The giraffe
is, in fact, one of those animals that could
never be mistaken for any other, with its brown-
splotched skin covering the little imitation
horns, the long face and melting eyes, the
black tongue, slender legs, and insignificant
tail. It is with wild animals as with human
beings. Some are full of character, while
others are just negative, and on the whole
the latter have the happiest time of it.
The large eyes of the giraffe, like those of
some fishes which inhabit the abysmal gloom
of the deep sea, suggest keen eyesight, and
may be contrasted with the large and erect
ears of the little fennec which dwells in the
same region. Keen eyesight would be useless
to so short an animal as the fennec, and, on
the other hand, a creature with its nose so far
from the ground as the giraffe has little use
for highly developed powers of scent, though
192 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
the giraffe is by no means deficient in that
sense. Still, it always sees the enemy first.
It is usual to post notices in menageries
requesting that no food be given to the
giraffes. This is done at our own Zoo. It
is certain that the authorities do not discourage
the practice without good reason, for, so long
as the recipients of such gifts do not suffer,
there is no objection to the public amusing
itself and at the same time paying some of the
food-bill. The giraffe, however, is a delicate
and costly animal, and care has to be taken
with its digestion. At the same time it is
a very fastidious creature, feeding in captivity
on the best clover hay, with an occasional
onion, bunch of tares, or lump of sugar. I
have been told that one, at any rate, was
known to refuse an apple out of which its
keeper had taken a bite. Without taking the
responsibility of this reflection on the keeper's
teeth, I should think it very likely that a dis-
criminating giraffe might take exception to
the taint of tobacco. At any rate, it is to be
hoped that, even on Bank Holidays, visitors
will respect the notice and keep their buns and
nuts for less delicate stomachs, as the loss of
a giraffe is a very serious item in the year’s
accounts.
Out on the rolling veldt, or in the cooler
glades of the African forest, the giraffe is a
. «= . +. SO AS TO BREAK THE LION'S JAW . . .
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 193
very different personality from the sluggish,
fearless animals in the paddock at the Zoo.
It travels far and wide in search of mimosa
leaves, its favourite food, reaching as far as
it can and stripping the branches with its long
tongue, so that trees pollarded in this fashion
to a kind of high-water mark are a common
feature of giraffe country. The giraffe is
fragile in appearance and timid by nature, yet,
when suddenly attacked by a lion, it some-
times manages to kick with such terrific force,
with hind or fore feet, as to break the lion’s jaw.
More often, no doubt, the lion that manages
to get close enough for a spring must kill and
eat his prey, but such retribution has been
known to fall on the tyrant more than once.
When fighting among themselves, half in
play, or at any rate without intent to do any
very serious damage, giraffes often butt with
their heads and fence with their false horns,
which are occasionally damaged in the fray.
The giraffe’s most effective weapon is the fore-
leg, with which it chops downwards. John
Stromboom, a well-known trader round Lake
Ngami many years ago, was, Mr. Bryden tells
me, nearly killed by a wounded giraffe in this
way. He had ridden up to it when it sud-
denly reared on end and struck at him with
both forelegs, missing by only a matter of
inches. Had the blows got home, both he
N
194 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
and his horse would have been done for, as
the force of such strokes from an animal that
weighs nearly a ton must be immense.
Unless there is urgent need for meat, these
beautiful and inoffensive animals should never
be shot. There is no trophy even to justify
such ‘‘sport,” for the so-called horns are little
better than knobs under the skin, and shoot-
ing a giraffe is so devoid of risk as to have
little savour for the true sportsman. During
Mr. Roosevelt’s African trip, a cow giraffe
even showed so little fear of the party that
several of them were able to get up to within
fifteen feet and pelt her with sticks and stones,
at which she walked slowly away. That,
surely, is not the sort of animal to shoot for
sport! True, this particular cow was spared,
but nine other giraffes were shot by members
of the party. Why?
If giraffes must be killed, as they must, no
doubt, at times for meat, why not hunt them
in the splendid manner of the Arab sword-
hunters, killing them with cold steel after they
have had a good run for their lives? Readers
of Sir Samuel Baker’s inspiring book on the
Nile Tributaries of Abyssinia will recall the
prowess of the Agagzr, or sword-hunters, of
the Hamran tribe of Arabs. Alas, the mighty
are fallen! This once great tribe has, in the
course of two generations, been all but exter-
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 195
minated in the tribal warfare of Mahdiism and
in border forays with the Abyssinians, and
even as far back as 1899, when the benefits
of British protection reached the Eastern Sudan,
only one family of the Hamran clan had out-
lived the terrible era of fire and sword, and
was dragging out its existence in the neigh-
bourhood of Gedaref. It is now, however,
well known that the Agar, or sword-hunter,
was not the monopoly of the Hamran tribe,
but an institution in most of the noble, horse-
riding Arab clans east of the White Nile, while
to the west of that river, in Kordofan and south
of Darfur, there are also mounted hunters,
who use the sword less than the spade-bladed
stabbing spear called £zbdzs. These intrepid
sword-hunters, whose tactics contrast curiously
with those of the cautious stalker armed with
the newest pattern of rifle, use their cold steel
on lion, elephant, or rhinoceros indiscrimi-
nately. They usually hunt in parties of three,
one acting as decoy and galloping in front
of the quarry, while the other two gallop
behind. One of these then dismounts, when
going full speed, and hamstrings the animal
on foot, using the sword double-handed, and
it is then comparatively easy to finish even an
elephant off, so helpless is it after the stroke.
For lions they have another stroke that cuts
clean through the spine. The giraffe, on the
196 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
other hand, is hamstrung from the saddle by
a cut delivered forwards and downwards, sword
and arm in line, a few inches above the animal’s
near hind hock. It is well known that in battle
the Arab never loses a chance of hamstringing
the enemy’s horses and camels. In the mélée
he always strives to detach his adversary’s
bridle and to fell the horse with a cut between
its ears. In fact, many of the Dervish horses
captured at the Battle of Firket, in 1896, were
found to have lost their ears in Arab warfare,
and this mutilation had clearly been the work
of the sword-cutting at the bridle headstall,
to protect which some horses wore head armour.
The truly daring and magnificent sport of the
sword-hunter has without a doubt declined from
various Causes, among which may be reckoned
the game laws promulgated of late years in the
Sudan, as well as the large number of firearms,
licensed or otherwise, now in use throughout
that. region. Yet there are men still living
who, armed only with cold steel, have laid
low the African elephant, and, whatever regret
may be felt at seeing so huge an animal
destroyed in any circumstances, much of the
reproach is removed when it is conquered with
such weapons. The ability to keep calm and
collected in face of great danger is commonly
claimed by some nations of Northern Europe
and America as their birthright, but those
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 197
know better the equality of human nature
under all skies who have shared the dangers
and hardships of hunting wild beasts in the
company of men of such mettle as the Arab,
the Sikh, or the Indian Mussulman. Among
the hardest and most skilful mounted hunters
in the Eastern Sudan are some of the loyal
Abu Ref tribe, as well as the fanatical Kinana
of Sheikh Fadl el Moula and the Beni Hussein
clan. In addition to these, there are also, in
the big game grounds of the south-west, the
Rizeigat of Ahmed Wad Egeil, the Humr,
the Habbaniya, and some Bagara clans.
The cutting power of the straight, two-edged,
cross-hilted sword of these Arab hunters is
amazing. In the hands of a powerful and
skilled swordsman, such a weapon is capable
of penetrating the hide and severing the muscle
of the largest elephant, and Ahmet Wad Idris,
a veteran hunter of the Beni Hussein, who
formerly lived at Singa and who, I believe,
accompanied Count Joseph Potocki on his
expedition in the Eastern Sudan, was actually
known to have cut off the hind leg of a giraffe
above the hock at a single blow, a feat that
might almost be deemed impossible. There
was another mighty hunter of the kind, one
Ramadan, son of Sheikh Abu Shetal of
Roseires, who hunted the wild buffalo with
hound and spear, harpooned the hippopotamus,
1988 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
and, without firearms of any sort, slew the lion,
elephant, and every kind of dangerous game
in his country. This is sport indeed, and
beside it our civilised pastime of shooting wild
beasts with long-range rifles makes tame read-
ing. At the same time, it must be borne in
mind that these wild Arabs are brought up
to such work, that their faith makes them
more indifferent to death and pain than the
men of other creeds, and that, even among
them, only a few picked men are equal to
these feats.
Comparatively few Englishmen have taken
part in these tribal hunting expeditions, but
I am indebted to one of the few, a cavalry
officer, for a most interesting account of a
giraffe hunt, which is, however, related in
these pages for the sake of a remarkable epi-
sode of peculiar interest to those who love
horses. It proves beyond doubt that the
animal, a high-caste Arabian and the property
of the sportsman who sent me the story, first
knew that it had incurred blame and then
sought to redeem its character for courage,
which it eventually did.
This is the story in his own words :—
‘It was in the year 1900 that a small party
set out from Fakki Mohammed Osman, on
the River Dinder, the principal affluent of the
Blue Nile, to hunt big game with spear and
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS gg
sword. In the time of those well-loved
Governors of the Sudan, Baker and Gordon,
both banks of the Dinder were lined with a
continuous succession of villages, the teeming
population of which cultivated broad acres
of cotton, corn, and the oil-bearing sesame.
These nations had, however, followed the arts
of peace, neglecting what Bacon calls ‘the
most certain oracle of time,’ infected with the
canker of prosperity, and blind to the necessity
of armed combination. As a result, the entire
riverine population was wiped out within a few
years, so that the acacia stretched its gaunt
arms over the ashes of their villages, and the
wild elephant trampled underfoot the last grue-
some evidences of their downfall. As, more-
over, the laws of Mahdiism precluded the use
of firearms in hunting, there was a marked
increase of wild animals in the Sudan between
1883 and 1898, and it was here, in the de-
populated area reclaimed by the wilderness,
that the sword-hunters found their opportunity.
**On the first day out, four wart-hog boars
were the reward of an early start. On the
second day, the party entered the elephant
country and bivouacked, with no other water
available than that which was carried in skins
on the backs of two camels. Next morning,
leaving the camels and a spare horse in bivouac,
the hunters set out, leading their horses. There
were Ahmet, the veteran lightweight of the
Beni Hussein tribe, with his black Galla pony,
‘Shansun’; then an Arab sheikh, with his smart
grey, ‘Bishtena’; next, two Agagzr, and myself
200 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
with a favourite high-caste chestnut Arabian
horse called ‘Bashom’ (i.e. the fox); and,
lastly, two footmen carrying waterskins. We
had gone an hour from camp without finding
any fresh traces of elephant, so we took up the
tracks of three giraffe that crossed the line
at right angles. The forest consisted mainly
of gum-bearing acacias, each about thirty feet
high, and at every mile or two we would pass
a watercourse, its lower level marked by the
luxuriant verdure of large tamarind, ebony and
adansonia trees; and the first rains, early in
June, had carpeted the undulating slopes of
hard loam with springy turf and wild flowers.
“¢ After an hour’s tracking at quickened pace,
during which we passed fresh tracks of other
feeding giraffe, Ahmet gave the signal by
springing into the saddle, and ‘Bashom’
pricked up his ears as three frightened giraffes,
which, though fully five hundred yards away,
had, as usual, seen the hunters before them-
selves being sighted, began striding towards
each other and then broke away to the left
at a swinging canter. The riders, however,
had a good start, and the horses were soon
skimming over the yielding ground as if they
were on a racecourse. One cow led away left-
handed and was unsuccessfully ridden by the
sheikh. The two larger animals, a light tawny
cow and an unusually big bull with conspicu-
ously black tessellated markings, bore straight
on abreast. The ground now became harder
and was covered with long dead grass, as well
as with occasional low thorns that explained
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 201
the pieces of leather tied over the knees and
thighs of the Agagzr. And now it was that
‘Bashom,’ having outdistanced the barb
horses of the rest, had drawn within five yards
of the bull’s near hind leg, when a powerful
backward kick from that limb gave his rider
a useful hint to ride wide that he was prompt
to act on. The sword was now unsheathed
from its place under the near flap of the saddle,
but the giraffe, after delivering other backward
kicks just out of reach of the sword-blade,
managed to forge ahead. It was enabled
to do so by the altered nature of the ground,
which was now of that heavy black mould,
intersected in every direction by fissures, which
the Arabs call mushkok, and which is not
unlike the black cotton soil of India. This
kind of going, while suited to the large feet
of the camel or giraffe, is very liable to bring
a horse down unless he is extended at a free
gallop. For this reason ‘Bashom’ was unable
to get abreast of the giraffe’s hock, the point
of which is more than four feet from the heel.
So the giraffe drew ahead and vanished in the
forest. The Agagzr now came up from behind
and unsaddled their horses, and when, in half
an hour, the party was joined by the two foot-
men, who had followed on their tracks, man
and beast drank with relish, though sparingly.
The veterans now surveyed the Arabian horse
and sadly gave it as their conviction that his
failure to close with his first giraffe was due to
timidity. He might, they admitted, be gifted
with a surprising turn of speed, but he lacked
202 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
spirit; and they even went as far as to say
that his cowardice would make him not only
useless, but a source of danger, if he were
again allowed to accompany the Agagzr.
‘““Now ‘Bashom,’ in common with most
high-caste Arabians, possessed what Arabs
call the ‘human eye,’ the type of eye, that is,
with white surrounding the dark pupil. Those
who know and love horses and dogs are familiar
with this type of eye. It is the eye that smiles,
that listens, that mourns. At this appalling
insult from the Agagzr, ‘Bashom’s’ eye was
as if fired with understanding. He, the com-
rade of Arabs from his foalhood, knew the
sting of their taunt, and for a moment there
was reason in his glance. Read the sequel.
‘*That same afternoon the hunters once
more took up the tracks of the giraffes, and
the camp was moved. On the advice of Ahmet,
I now rode my second horse, and ‘ Bashom’
brought up the rear with the camels and
Agagir, some two hundred yards behind. The
party had just crossed a valley, when suddenly
a giraffe was seen stalking across the front,
not two hundred yards ahead. It took the
beast an appreciable time to turn, and the two
horsemen were riding it before it was in its
stride. But, in less time than it takes to tell,
there was a third in the race, coming up from
behind. In a few strides, ‘Bashom’ was
alongside his master. In vain the Hamran
Arab who rode him tried to steady him. In
negotiating a watercourse, the man was de-
posited on the ground, and ‘ Bashom,’ taking
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 203
his own line, headed straight for the giraffe,
brushing through the thorns as if they were
bullfinches, and taking every fallen tree-trunk
in his stride. A new element was now intro-
duced into this extraordinary chase in the
shape of four hartebeest, of dark chestnut
colour, which, startled out of a patch of scrub
by the fugitive giraffe, joined in the procession
until the strong running of the riderless Arabian
scattered them to right and left. Ahmet, once
more to the fore, now feared that the runaway
might cross him at the critical moment and
made one or two futile cuts with his hide-whip
in the hope of turning the animal from his
course ; but ‘ Bashom,’ with a snort of defiance,
rushed headlong at the giraffe as if he meant
to ride it off to the right from the near side.
The terrified creature did, in fact, swerve to
the right, but, in so doing, managed to deliver
a knock-down blow with its near hind leg,
which came home on the shoulder with such
effect that poor ‘ Bashom’ turned over on his
back as if he had been shot. Yet he had
achieved his object, for the giraffe’s turn to the
right undoubtedly sealed its fate. It was
overtaken, the sword flashed from its scabbard,
and a sweeping blow from the blade severed
the hamstring, while a simultaneous twist to
the left saved ‘ Blue Fire’ from being crushed
as the bull toppled over. As the hunters dis-
mounted to give the coup de grace, a sorry
object trotted past the fallen foe. It was
‘ Bashom,’ dead lame, covered with mud, and
with the saddle turned round on his left flank,
204 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
but he was proud in the knowledge that he
had shown his mettle and retrieved his reputa-
tion.
‘‘Twelve years are gone, and ‘ Bashom’ has
a happy home in the green fields of Essex,
enjoying the rest that he earned so well in
those strenuous days. It may be that, now
and again, as his ‘human eye’ gleams with
gratitude to his benefactress, he recalls the
fierce scent of the battle-smoke and the flash
of the sword.”
The zebra, another exclusively African type,
is a wild horse in a tiger’s skin, or as such, at any
rate, it impresses all who see it for the first time.
Time was, not long ago, when Africa produced
four different kinds of zebra. But the Boers
(being as fond of zebra meat as lions are) ex-
terminated one of these knownas the quagga, the
last survivor dying in captivity in 1883, so that
(as in the case of the Little Nigger Boys) there
are now only three. One, the mountain zebra,
is also called the common zebra, though, as
a matter of fact, it is very scarce, being found
only in the high mountains of Cape Colony,
where it is strictly preserved. Else it might
have gone the way of the quagga. The two
others are named after Burchell and Grévy.
The last named, which has its home in
Abyssinia, is also very rare, and it was said
at the time that the market value of a fine pair
A RARE ANTELOPE.
The Bongo is the largest of the West African bushbucks. Little is known of its
habits, save that the animal lives in the forest and is nocturnal.
al a a Mc ee
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 205
presented to Queen Victoria by Menelik could
not have been less than £1000. Of the domes-
tication of the zebra, which has never been very
successful, more is said in another chapter.
I know of one that was driven in a trap by
a lady living near Abergavenny, and a more
famous team was that belonging to Mr. Lionel
Rothschild ; but the zebra in harness is a prob-
lem that needs patience. Sportsmen shoot
zebras only, as a rule, when their camp boys
want meat, as the animal’s flesh, though. un-
appreciated by Europeans, is a delicacy to the
negro, who is also an admirer of crocodiles’
eggs and buzzards. Apart from this occasional
necessity, the zebra interests the sportsman
chiefly on account of its annoying habit of
galloping wildly round him when he is stalk-
ing better game and thereby giving the alarm
to all and sundry, spoiling many a good shot
by its eccentric behaviour.
ANTELOPES
The antelopes, which carry solid horns, are
regarded in the museum as furnishing a link
between the goats and oxen, and are, in fact,
related to both groups, a cousinship best
appreciated when we look at the gnu, or
wildebeest, which is much more like an ox
than an antelope. The variety and importance
206 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
of Africa’s antelopes have already been referred
to. Asia has half a dozen of no great size,
and the two which occur in America are
eccentric rather than attractive; but Africa
_ has close on a hundred different kinds, ranging
in size from the great eland, which may weigh
two thousand pounds, down to the tiny blue-
buck and dik-dik, which may be weighed in
ounces. In the great hunting days of such
pioneers as Roualeyn Gordon Cumming and
Cornwallis Harris, vast herds of antelopes
blackened the veldt, troops of them wheel-
ing and galloping over the emerald-green of
the plains with an effect that those who know
the lifelessness of those scenes nowadays find
it hard to believe. They are gone now, and
their haunts have passed to the Afrikander.
Yet the commoner kinds are still abundant in
tracts like the Kalahari, where they can always
enjoy comparative immunity from man. The
horns of these beautiful animals furnish most
of the attractive trophies of shzkar, and the
corridors and staircases of more than one
London club, and notably of one in St. James’s
Square, absolutely bristle with horns of every
type, including the straight, spiral horns of
the eland, the sweeping weapons of the beisa
and gemsbok, the magnificent curves of the
roan and sable, the V-shaped crown of the
hartebeest, and many others. There is also
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 207
much character in the faces of these antelopes,
and it would be difficult to confuse the pied
black and white countenance of the gemsbok,
the mournful face of the hartebeest, and the
fringed forehead of the addax. Naturalists
were long exercised by the apparent anomaly
of so magnificent an animal as the eland
thriving in an all but waterless waste like the
Kalahari, which even smaller kinds seemed to
avoid. It was Selous who, with his usual
genius for getting information out of the natives,
who for the most part are either reticent or
misleading, found that the Kalahari produces
not only water-melons and a bulb that is full
of moisture, but also a certain bush, the leaves
of which form the eland’s favourite food. Even
the smallest antelopes, though feeble-looking
little creatures, sometimes show wonderful
courage and endurance; and Sir Godfrey
Lagden tells me that he has known even the
little steenbok and duiker draw hounds away
from their young and sacrifice themselves so
as to save the family; and he once saw a
mountain rhebok, with one leg broken, get
away on the other three, and actually escape
from a pack of dogs in hot pursuit.
The most grotesque of all the antelopes are
the gnus, or wildebeests. Of the two kinds,
one has a black tail and the other a white.
To anyone unfamiliar with their identity they
208 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
suggest wild oxen out of drawing, and their
habits are as strange as their appearance.
Troops of them come prancing and curveting
about trek waggons and caravans in a manner
that would alarm anyone unaccustomed to
their ways, as there is something ferocious in
the aspect of their bristling faces and thick
manes, while their comic appearance is en-
hanced by the bushy tail and slender legs.
As a matter of fact, though less formidable
than they appear, these animals are anything
but sweet-tempered in captivity, and their
keepers in menageries generally learn to treat
them with distant respect.
That antelopes, as, in fact, most wild game,
rely for protection on scent rather than on
either eyesight or hearing is generally recog-
nised, though the theory is accepted by the
majority of sportsmen that animals living on
the open plains depend on their sight more
than those inhabiting jungle, where they would
be warned of the enemy’s approach by getting
wind of him or by hearing the crackle of the
undergrowth. That even creatures in the
open, however, smell the enemy rather than
see it is strikingly demonstrated by a very
interesting episode recently communicated to
The Field by Mr. Reginald Sharpe.
Mr. Sharpe was watching a herd of reedbuck,
about twelve in number, in an open glade near
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 209
the Lujenda River, in Portuguese Nyasaland,
when he saw a lion walking towards them
up-wind without the slightest attempt at con-
cealment. ‘Though the lion passed within ten
or twelve yards of one of the bucks, and in
full view, this animal, like the rest of the herd,
merely stared at the intruder, but made no
attempt to get away and showed no sign of
alarm. Then the lion went on his way along
a dry watercourse, disappearing from view.
By now, however, the wind was blowing from
him to the antelopes, which immediately dashed
away to safety. From this curious sequel
Mr. Sharpe reasonably concludes that they did
not recognise the lion as a dangerous animal
until they got wind of him.
BUFFALO
The Cape buffalo, though rather smaller
than the Indian ‘‘bison,”’ is, if anything, even
more dangerous when wounded, so that with
sportsmen who prefer a little give and take in
such encounters it is a great favourite. Un-
fortunately, much of the best buffalo country,
which lies on the east coast round the mouth
of the Zambesi, is ‘‘fly” country, and very
unhealthy besides, so that sportsmen can shoot
there only in the autumn. On the other hand,
the drawbacks of the climate act as a more
O
210 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
effectual protection of the buffalo than any
game laws. Often the buffalo gives more than
he gets, and, as will be related in a later chap-
ter, more than one sportsman has been killed
by these animals. An old bull buffalo is black
and hairless, but the younger males are red.
The ears are large and hairy, and the horns
are wide and massive, with a helmet, or boss,
protecting the forehead between. The largest
known buffalo measured g ft. without the tail
and stood over 44 ft. at the shoulder. The
horns measured 53 in. round the curve and
nearly 48 in. from tip to tip. But such
figures are quite exceptional.
Like other wild oxen, the African buffalo is
fond of wallowing in water and of plastering
its body with mud as protection against the
bite of the tsetse-fly, which is said to derive
from this source the parasite of the dreaded
disease called rinderpest, which infects the tame
herds and ruins the farmers, who, in conse-
quence, clamour for the extermination of buffalo
in their district. As one of the tsetse-flies also
conveys the microbe of sleeping-sickness, an
even graver plea has been raised for the destruc-
tion of the buffalo and other big game.
Opinions on the subject differ considerably,
even among those qualified to write of it.
Selous regards the buffalo and tsetse-fly as
inseparable. Others, on the other hand, have
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 211
gone so far as to declare that these flies, like
mosquitoes, are only bloodsuckers by prefer-
ence, and that, when unable to drink blood,
they readily feed on vegetable juices. For this
remarkable assertion there seems to be too
little evidence, but there is, at any rate, some
reason for thinking that these water-haunting
insects may exist on the blood of cormorants,
crocodiles, and other neighbours that share
their haunts, without being in any way depen-
dent on the buffalo. If this can be demon-
strated, then it is obviously futile to hope that
the extermination of the buffalo would have
the desired effect of freeing Africa from the
tsetse-fly, and, short of such result, the total
suppression of so fine an animal would be a
matter for regret. ;
A story is told of an encounter between a
Belgian sportsman in the Congo and a solitary
old male buffalo, which reads less like a hunt-
ing incident than an episode from the Spanish
bull-ring. It seems that the Belgian had fired
at the buffalo and missed it. His native carrier
chose that particular moment (not a bad one)
to bolt with the other gun and all the cartridges.
The bull chose the same moment to charge.
Most men of ordinary temperament would
have made for the nearest tree; but the brave
Belgian, scorning to turn his back on the foe,
preferred to catch the buffalo by the horns and
212 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
pull it to the ground, where he seems to have
held it till his followers ran up and put an end
to it. As the animal probably weighed five or
six hundredweight, those may believe the story
who like. No wonder Cesar calls the Belgians
‘very brave” !
WILD SHEEP AND WART-HOG
Allusion has already been made to Africa’s
one wild sheep. Richer in antelopes than the
rest of the world, it has but this single insig-
nificant mountain sheep, the aoudad (wrongly
called ‘‘moufflon”’) of the Atlas Mountains.
This animal, which is much more like a goat
than a sheep, has long reddish hair, black in-
curved horns, measuring about 25 inches over
the curve, and a regular bib and apron round
its neck, and it stands a little over 3 feet at the
shoulder.
It is one of the sportsman’s disappointments.
Common in almost every Zoo, from Berlin to
Bronx, its quest in its native hills is like that of
a needle in a haystack. I write feelingly on the
subject, for I have not yet forgotten a hot
summer thirteen years ago in which I clambered
nearly 6000 feet above sea-level in its tracks
and found no more than I might have looked
for on the beach at Mogador. I am told that
the high Algerian Tell is a more likely region
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 213
to seek it in, and hope that this may be the
case ; but I shall not pursue it again. I should,
in fact, as soon expect to come across the wild
elephants that used to walk along the beach
near Tangier in the time of Hanno the Car-
thagenian. Yet I could not have been far
from the haunts of the aoudad, for a native
guide pointed to a high peak, near the Castle
of Gundafi, from which, he told me, a severe
snowstorm had once driven a flock to take
refuge in an outhouse, where, half-starved and
frozen, they were presently secured by the
Kaid’s men and held captive. In fact, few
wild animals are more easily tamed.
Of wild pigs, the most remarkable in Africa
is the wart-hog, which, with its enormous
flattened head, warty face, and great tusks in
both jaws, is certainly the ugliest pig on earth.
Young wart-hogs are less grotesque and more
graceful than their parents, yet even they are
not beautiful. The wart-hog stands about
30 inches at the shoulder, and the tusks would
measure, in a large specimen, 25 inches.
The wart-hog is not as savage as it looks,
lacking the pluck of the wild boar, though not
hesitating to charge dogs, which stand a poor
chance against a double array of tusks. Per-
haps the trick which most disconcerts sports-
men unused to it is that of bolting out of its
burrow head over heels, looking as if it were
214 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
charging backwards. This is very amusing to
read of, but less satisfactory when the perform-
ance is witnessed by someone standing over
the burrow, who is apt to find that these gym-
nastics bring the wart-hog’s tusks disagreeably
near his own shins.
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 215
3. CANADA AND SOUTH
AMERICA
The countries in the New World of chief
interest to Englishmen seeking a career abroad
are first Canada, and then British Guiana and
neighbouring countries of South America. To
the sportsman, on the other hand, it is Canada,
and more particularly the western section of it
known as British Columbia, which constitutes
one of the most wonderful summer playgrounds
for trout-fishing and winter playgrounds for big-
game shooting in all the world. There is sport
also, however, in the eastern provinces. The
salmon rivers of Newfoundland, New Bruns-
wick, and Quebec have a reputation unrivalled
by even those of Scotland or Norway, and the
caribou of Newfoundland, with moose and
deer in New Brunswick, also attract numbers
of sportsmen every autumn. ‘Those who go
for the winter shooting, and not for the fishing
in July, must, no doubt, face the rigours of a
Canadian winter, but they are, at any rate, free
from the terrible flies which make life all but
unbearable in the backwoods down to the end
of July. As the salmon-fishing of the Resti-
gouche and other famous rivers of the North
Shore ends by the middle of August, it is im-
possible to keep clear of the black fly, which,
216 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
with the midge and mosquito, is an even worse
pest in Newfoundland.
British Columbia has, thanks to the in-
accessible sanctuaries high up in the Rocky
Mountains, become the last refuge of many of
the finest North American animals, and there
the grizzly bear, wapiti, and bighorn still hold
out against the rifle and other resources of a
greedy civilisation, their survival being en-
couraged by the Canadian Government, as
well as by the provincial game wardens, who
do all they can to punish poachers and to
regulate the destruction of the wild game. The
Canadian National Park at Banff, of which
something is said in the concluding chapter of
the book, is a model for all such establish-
ments, and reflects the greatest credit on
Canadians in general and on those responsible
for its control in particular.
OXEN, SHEEP AND GOATS
The musk ox is the nearest Canadian relative
of the bison, or buffalo, and the latter, existing
as it does only under protection, is more
appropriately referred to elsewhere. The musk
ox is a native of the dreary Barren Grounds
and the desolate shores of the Great Slave
Lake. This wild ox of the frozen north
stands 4} feet at the shoulder, and is, like
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 217
other North American types, a peculiar mixture
of several families. Though it goes by the
name of ox, it is almost as closely related to
the sheep, or perhaps it would be still more
correct to regard it, strictly, as quite distinct
from either group. Its long body is covered
with a thick coat of very long hair, and the
horns, which average a little over 24 inches,
are very solid and curve downwards in a way
unusual in horned animals. It is hunted with
dogs and then shot while the dogs hold it at
bay, a very poor sort of sport, if such slaughter
can be called sport at all.
The bighorn sheep, though still found
throughout the Rocky Mountains, as far
south as Mexico, is at its best in British
Columbia, and has, in fact, so far as the
United States are concerned, retired to all but
inaccessible height in Wyoming and Montana,
where its powers of climbing have so far averted
the fate meted out to the buffalo of the plains.
The ram stands a little over 40 inches at the
shoulder, and the massive, wide-curved horns
have been known to exceed 50 inches over
the curve. They are often broken off at the
tips, which probably occurs in fighting, though
certainly not, as was formerly believed, by
these animals jumping over precipices and
alighting on their horns! This animal is pro-
tected in British Columbia by a close time, as
218 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
well as by licences limiting the bag. Like
other mountain sheep, it is always on the look
out for danger, and can, as a rule, be shot
only from above.
The Rocky Mountain goat is not a goat at
all, but rather an antelope. As its horns never
exceed 12 inches they are a wretched trophy
compared, for instance, with those of the big-
horn, and if sportsmen still go after the animal
at all, it is on account of the well-known diffi-
culty there is in reaching its haunts, which can
be arrived at only by the most arduous clamber
over terrible ground far above the timberline.
Thus, whereas the bighorn is an exceedingly
wary and difficult creature to stalk, the ‘‘ goat,”
once found, offers no further difficulty or in-
terest, being one of the most foolish wild
animals in creation. It has a characteristic
crouching attitude that is very peculiar, and
quite unlike that of any other animal of its
kind or size, and, though a wonderful climber,
it lacks the quickness of movement and agility
of other mountain game.
An animal of the United States that must
stand alone is the pronghorn antelope, the only
living animal with hollow horns that are shed
annually as deer shed their antlers. These
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 219
horns measure about 17 inches. There are
also peculiarities about the hair on the neck
and body. If the bighorn is sought for its
horns, and the ‘‘goat”’ for its inaccessibility,
the pronghorn is shot for its flesh, which is
delicious eating, even in summer, when so
much other game is not worth the cooking.
Unfortunately’ it is being fast exterminated,
and the time cannot be far distant when, like
the bison, it will survive only in protected
parks; and even in the Yellowstone, where
it is safe from the sportsman, it is being de-
voured by wolves. The true home of the
pronghorn is on the open grassy plains from
Manitoba southward to Nevada and California,
and it was even found in the Colorado desert,
as far from regular supplies of water as the
eland of the Kalahari. It is a delicate animal,
and even suffers from severe winter weather.
It is also a wary creature and must be stalked
with infinite patience. Even so, in the absence
of cover on the plains, it must generally be
shot at long range.
DEER
The deer of Canada are of great importance
to the sportsman, including as they do the
moose, caribou, wapiti, mule deer, and white-
tail, or Virginian, deer. The greatest of all
220 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
living deer is the moose, and a bull moose will
stand over 6 feet at the shoulder. The record
antlers measure 554 inches, with 4o points.
This is the same animal as the European elk,
which is chiefly shot in Norway and Sweden,
but which also ranges through Russia to the
Caucasus. In Canada it is found chiefly in the
Lower Provinces, i.e. New Brunswick, Quebec,
and Nova Scotia. Besides being the largest, it
is also without doubt the ugliest of deer, its
hairy throat, flat and spreading antlers and
huge snout giving it an ungainly and _ for-
bidding appearance, particularly if seen sud-
denly and unexpectedly at close quarters. In
colour, the bull goes from black to grey, and
the antlers are shed in the depth of winter.
The moose feeds chiefly on young shoots of
the birch and spruce and, in summer time, on
lily pads, wallowing in the cool brooks and
tearing these up wholesale, so intent on gather-
ing its salad as to be oblivious of approaching
canoes. As, however, the summer close time
is strictly enforced, it runs, or should run, no
risk of being shot with anything worse than a
camera. I regret to say that it is precisely in
the summer months, when the game wardens
are off duty, that the poachers are most
active, particularly in Madawaska County.
The authorities do all they can to prevent
such breach of the law, and not long ago a
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 221
man was fined £40 for killing a cow and
a calf. Yet the moose is holding its own in
some districts, and even increasing in a few,
in spite of the fact that the number shot law-
fully by licence-holders in 1910 amounted in
New Brunswick alone to no fewer than 2052.
The usual way of shooting moose is by call-
ing the bull within range of the rifle. This
can be done only in early autumn, and the
services of a professional caller, who uses a
birchbark trumpet for the purpose, must be
engaged. It is not, in any case, a very high-
class amusement, and indeed, Colonel S. J.
Lea, c.B., to whom I am indebted for the follow-"
ing reminiscence of moose-calling, regards it
frankly as ‘‘about the most poaching form of
sport” he ever took part in. He describes it
thus :-—
‘*Tt was at the first full moon after Septem-
ber 15, some years ago, that I found myself
with two Micmac Indians in a birchbark wig-
wam near a lake in the backwoods, not far
from Windsor (N.S.). There were duck on
the lake, snipe in the marshes, and ruffed
grouse in the woods, yet not a shot was fired
at any of these, as one of my guides had come
across signs of moose. Our camp was pitched
in the timber on the lake shore, and after
dinner the guide, whose name was Andrew,
shaped a conical horn out of birchbark, which
222 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
he then put to his lips, and, lo! the dull-
throated roar of a bull moose echoed through
the still forest, rising and falling in wonderful
imitation of the creature’s challenge. We
listened intently, but in vain, for no answer-
ing roar came in response. Then, after wait-
ing for a quarter of an hour, the call was
repeated, but again without result, so we turned
in and lay down on the fragrant beds piled high
with tips of hemlock.
‘‘Next evening Andrew called again, and
now indeed there came from afar the answering
call. Then, after another wait, which seemed
like an hour but could only have been a matter
of minutes, he called once more, and again the
answer reached us, this time from much closer
at hand. The next sound we heard was that
of the moose thrashing his way with his antlers
as he came through the undergrowth. Fortu-
nately the wind was in the right quarter, and
still he came in our direction, when suddenly,
perhaps a hundred yards from where we waited,
we heard him no more, and concluded that he
must have stopped. And now Andrew gave
just one low grunt on his trumpet, and I
slipped back the catch of the rifle, staring
anxiously into the gloom, where the moonlight
threw such fantastic shadows that it was easy
to mistake the boughs of trees for spreading
antlers. Suddenly, John, my other Indian,
touched my arm and pointed towards the
darkness. He, of course, could see the moose,
but my eyes were not those of a Micmac, and
it took me a moment longer to make out the
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 223
great Roman nose and broad antlers of a large
moose standing head on. In that dim light
I dared not risk a shot at the animal in that
position, but in a few minutes it turned and
gave me the chance of a broadside. I fired,
and the moose fell to the shot, but, although
it had a very fine head, and although my
licence allowed me to shoot four moose, this
one was the first and last I cared to kill by
such means!”
In spite of its great strength and stature,
the moose is said to leave a district when the
smaller white-tailed deer comes into it, while
the caribou, in its turn, retreats before the
moose. The latter statement bears the stamp
of probability, but it is not easy to believe
that an animal of such fighting weight as a
moose would give way before another much
smaller member of the same family. A deer
would not scale more than one-eighth the
weight of a moose.. Yet we are asked to
believe the lighter animal capable of driving
the other before it. Facts, no doubt, are
facts, and it seems established that the same
district is not suited to both kinds. Yet
there may be some other explanation than that
commonly accepted. Is it, for instance, not
possible that there are periodical changes in
the vegetation, or other conditions, of a district
224 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
which may simultaneously make it suitable to
the needs of the smaller animal and no longer
habitable for the larger ?
The moose is known in Europe as the ‘‘ elk,”
but the ‘‘elk,” so-called, of America is a very
different animal, more correctly known as the
wapiti, a magnificent deer, and second in size
only to the moose itself. A big stag may
stand 54 ft. at the shoulder, and the record
antler is over 60 in., twenty-pointers having
been known. The wapiti is also found in the
Caucasus and in Manchuria. It used to be
common on the east side of America, but has
long been exterminated there, and now has
its last refuge in the Rocky Mountains, both
on the Canadian side and in Colorado and
Montana. The finest are found in Vancouver
Island and in the hills on the mainland
opposite. In other days, when these animals
were more plentiful and less suspicious of man,
they could be ridden down and shot with re-
volvers, much as Mr. Winans occasionally
rides down his park deer. Nowadays, how-
ever, the wapiti must be stalked and shot at
comparatively long range. The herd rests
during the greater part of the day, but also
feeds at intervals, and the easiest time to shoot
the stags is when they are challenging each
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 225
other to battle royal. The wapiti does not,
like some other deer, hide away in the gloomy
depths of the forest, but, where not disturbed,
prefers the edge of the timber, with open
clearings to feed in. It grazes and browses,
eating all manner of grasses, as well as leaves
and twigs.
The case of a sportsman (Sir Henry Seton-
Karr) coming right on a sleeping buffalo has
been quoted, and he also draws my attention
not only to the extraordinary watchfulness of
deer, but also to the curious habit of wapiti
and others, when in herds, leaving the sentinel
duty to the females. The cow wapiti is aware
of danger in an instant. When uncertain of
its nature or direction, she gives a warning
bark, but the least scent, even if only picked
up by a straggler, sends the whole herd away
at top speed, as if moved by a single impulse,
and always in the direction of safety. More-
over, deer are usually able and willing to help
one another. By way of illustrating this, Sir
Henry recalls the following experience: ‘‘I was
once stalking a good stag ona far-away island
of Norway. I had watched it feed into a
deep hollow. During the stalk, a smaller
stag, some distance away, got wind of me.
Now, instead of immediately bolting, as it
might reasonably have been expected to, the
smaller animal did his best to warn the other
P
226 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
of his danger by trotting up to him and trying
to attract his attention. Unfortunately for the
big stag (but fortunately for myself), the great
depth of the valley into which his big friend
had fed thwarted his gallant attempt.”
The caribou of Canada (also found in some
of the northern States) is the same animal as
the European reindeer, though Americans in-
sist on distinguishing two different kinds, the
Barren Ground and the Woodland caribou, the
latter being much larger and more southern
in its range. A full-grown stag may stand
4% ft. at the shoulder, and in Newfoundland
even taller examples have been shot. The
longest recorded antler is 62 in. As in the
reindeer, both sexes carry antlers, and both,
of course, cast them each season.
Caribou feed on moss and lichens, also on
cranberries and other wild fruits. The Wood-
land caribou keeps in the same district as a
rule, though restless at some seasons of the year;
but the Barren Ground kind band together in
immense herds and perform long migrations
east and west at regular intervals, a habit
taken advantage of by those who shoot them.
This animal has, as already mentioned, splay
feet, which enable it to run at great pace over
CREATURES OF THE WILDERNESS 227
soft ground or snow, without crashing through
the surface crust in the manner that so often
proves the undoing of a moose when pursued
by hunters. It is, in consequence, when only
slightly wounded, a difficult animal to follow
up.
The two other deer of North America are the
mule deer, also called black-tailed deer, and
the Virginian, or white-tailed, deer. The
mule deer is found only on the western side,
and the true black-tailed deer is restricted to
the Pacific Slope. 49, 116
Jungle Book, The, 131
Kadiak Island, Brown bear of,
232
Kalahari, Elands thriving in
the, 207
Kangaroo shooting, 239
Kashmir, 83; game laws of,
329; “stag” of, 92 ; bears in,
136, 137
Kathiawar, Lions in, 39, 252
Keddah, 65
Kipling, 131, 283
Krait, Bite of the, 139
Ladak, 50, 83
Lagden, Sir Godfrey (quoted),
207
Lays of Ind, 117
Lea, Col. S. J. (quoted), 221
339
Le Breton, Mr. (killed by a
tiger), 250
Lee-Warner, Sir William (on
intelligence in elephants), 65-
70
Leopard as a pet, 132 ; cannibal
tastes of, 129; destructiveness
of, 13, 129, 166; different
kinds of, 127; fight between
cheetah and, 167; man-eat-
ing, 128; method of catch-
ing monkeys adopted by, 110;
narrow escape from, 260;
preying on dogs, 128, 131;
sportsmen killed by, 260
Lewis, Col. D. F. (encounter
with lion), 152
Lions, Alleged magnanimity of,
165; and giraffe, 166; com-
pared with tiger, 97, 151;
destructiveness of, 13, 304;
female braver than male, 156 ;
Indian, 95; in the Bible, 106 ;
man-eating, 107; maneless,
150; occasional cowardice of,
151-9; pursuing cyclists, 161,
162; range of, 39; remark-
able adventure with, 253, roar
of, 163; slaughtered by Boers,
303; sportsmen killed by,
250-3
Livingstone, 146, 246
Llama, 238, 287
London, Draught-dogs in, 292
Longden, Mr. Gerald (killed by
an elephant), 256
Longstaff, Dr. T. (quoted), 83,
96, 132, 228
“Lost Man’s Friend,” The, 303
Lyall, Sir Alfred (quoted), 304
Machan, Shooting from a, 26,
76, 77, 108, 111, 248, 249
Machilla, Travel by, 146
McClintock, Sledge-dogs used
by, 291
Madeira, Cruelty to bullocks in,
289
340 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
Mahout, 60, 66, 67, 2773; res-
cued from tiger by elephant,
97
Mammoth, Siberian, 58
Man-eater, Evolution of the,
104-7; scarce in Nilgiris,
106 ; sex of, 106
Man-eaters of Tsavo, The, 107,
251
Mancions lions, 150
Mangrove swamps, Animal life
in the, 31
Markhor, Horns of the, 83
Marsh Deer, 237
“ Maximus” wrongly applied
to the Indian elephant, 52
Méhari (swift camel), 285
Mesmerising tigers, 117
Mesopotamia, Lions in, 95
Mhow, Elephant executed at, 54
Migrations, Animal, 38, 85, 86
Miramichi, The River, 27
Mistakes made by animals, 109
Moffatt (narrow escape from
cobra and lion), 246
Molony, Lieut. (mauled by lion),
252
Mongoose, Tactics of the, 140
Monkeys betray the where-
abouts of big game, 150;
preyed on by tigers, 108; by
leopards, 110
Moose, Calling, 221-3 ; disturb-
ing a, 29; evicted by white-
tailed deer, 223 ; food of, 220;
identical with European elk,
220; poached in summer
months, 220
Morgan, Prof. Lloyd (quoted),
109
Mosquitoes in Newfoundland,
216
Mountain transport, Elephants
used for, 279 ; yaks for, 288
Mule deer, Range of, 227
Muntjac as a pet, 133; teeth of,
133
Murray, Colonel (quoted), 249
Murray, Major (quoted), 257
ote ox, Method of hunting,
217
“ Must” in elephants, 61
Mysore, Elephant shooting in,
63
Nandi lion-hunters, 243
Nansen, Sledge-dogs used by,
291
Nature-teaching, Io, II
Neave, Mr. (killed by a sloth
bear), 261
Negro, Ways of the, 14, 148, 151,
276, 277, 296, 307, 319
Nepal, Rhinoceros in, 73
“Never Never,” the, 37
Neumann, Mr. Arthur (gored by
an elephant), 256, 320
New Brunswick, Game laws of,
328
Newfoundland, Mosquitoes in,
216
“ Nile-horse,” 187
Nilgiris, Game laws in the, 329
Okapi, Discovery of the, 147
Oswell (tossed by black and
white rhinoceros), 246
Otter trained to catch fish, 295
Outram, Sir James (adventure
with a tiger), 117
Ovis ammon and O. poli, 83
Panther afraid of wild boar, 75 ;
and hyena sharing same cave,
129 ; on a railway, 47
Park, Mungo, 146
Patterson, Colonel, to
Peary, Sledge-dogs used by, 291
Penang, Crocodiles on the
coast of, 144
Penguins, Fearlessness of, 273
Persia, Lions in, 95
Pet animals, 80, 132, 133, 136,
274
Pigsticking, 74, 80
Pioneer Mail (quoted), 128, 259
—
INDEX
Pitfalls for wild boar, 82
Poer, Mr. H. C. de la (adven-
ture with lions), 154
Porcupine in camp, 28 ; protec-
tion of, 305
Pronghorn antelope in the Yel-
lowstone, 219
Protective colouring, 25
Puma, Alleged friendliness of,
236; enmity between jaguar
and, 237; hunting with dogs,
* 235
Python, Encounter with a, 26
Quagga exterminated by Boers,
204, 313
Queensland, Mangrove swamps
in, 31
Railway trains, Encounters be-
tween wild animals and, 47,
48, 71,72
Rangoon Gazette (quoted), 96
“ Ranjitsinhji” bags an Indian
lion, 95
Rat, A tame, 274
Red Bear, 137
Reedbuck and lion, 208
Reid, Mr. Percy (adventures
with lions), 153, 156-60
Reindeer, Taming of the, 17,
289, 290
Restigouche, Salmon-fishing in
the, 215
Rhinoceros, attracted by camp
fires, 186; elephant afraid of,
96; horns of, 73, 183; im-
mune from rinderpest, 309 ;
methods of fighting, 73, 184 ;
nervousness of, 75, 185;
slaughter of, 321; square-
mouthed, 184, 185
Rhodesia, Elephant-shooting in,
16, 174-82
Rifles andammunition, Perform-
ances with modern, 247, 321
Rinderpest, Depredations of,
308, 309
341
Roberts, Lord (and cats), 98
Rocky Mountain goat, Foolish-
ness of the, 218
“Rogue” elephants, Theories
concerning, 61-4, 295
Rook and squirrel, Fight be-
tween, III
Roosevelt, Giraffe shot by, 194 ;
rhinoceros shot by, 185, 321
Rospoli, Prince (killed by an
elephant), 194
Royal Colonial Institute, The,
18
Royal Society for Prevention of
Cruelty to Animals, 289, 292
Russell, Mr. Robert (killed by
a buffalo), 263
Russian forest, Daybreak in a,
26, 27
Sable antelope, Native killed by
a, 264
Salisbury Plain, Solitude of, 23
Salmon-fishing, 43
Sambur, Antlers of, 88; young
(escaping notice), 91
Sanctuaries for big game, 301,
311
Sandbach, Major (killed by a
lioness), 250
Saunders, Capt. A. (bitten by a
lion), 252
Sea, Crocodiles attacking bath-
ers in the, 144
Selous, F. C. Mr.,_ early
memories of, 146 ; encounters
with wild beasts, 184, 244,
246, 252, 262; on armed
native question, 319; on
buffalo and tsetse-fly, 210; on
character of buffalo, 264; on
eland flourishing in the Kala-
hari, 207
Sense of proportion, Importance
of a, 45
Senses of wild animals, 24, 25
Sentinels, Wild animals as, 84
Seoni, 131
342 THE WILDERNESS AND JUNGLE
Seton-Karr, Sir H. (quoted),
24, 25, 26, 63, 156, 225
Sharpe, Mr. Reginald (quoted),
208
Sheep, Domestication of the,
273, 275; wild, 83, 217
“‘ Ship of the desert,” 283
Sledge-dogs and Eskimo chil-
dren, 277, 291
Sleeping Sickness, Ravages of,
147
Sloth bear as a pet, 136; food of,
136; inappropriate name of,
135
Snake-charmers, 141
Snakes, Venom of, 140
Snow-leopard, 127
Society for the Preservation of
the Wild Faunaof the Empire,
12
Somali herdsman a fighter, 276
South America poor in big
game, 234
Spain, Camels in, 287, 296;
game laws of, 324
Sport, The freedom of, 14
Squirrel and rook, Fight be- |
tween, III
Stags, Duels between, 170
Steinbok, Courage of the, 207
Steller’s Sea-cow, Extermina-
tion of, 314
Stevenson - Hamilton,
(quoted), 306, 31
Stigand, Capt.
leopard), 260
Stromboom (encounter
giraffe), 193
Suakin Field Force, 287
Sunderbunds, Tiger-shooting in
the, 116
Swamp-deer (see Barasingh)
Sweden, Elk in, 88
Swiss Lake Dwellings,
dences of the, 271
Switzerland, Game laws of, 324
Sword-hunters, Arab, 16
Syria, Tame buffaloes in, 277
Major
ee
(killed by
with
Evi-
Talbot, Major (quoted), 87, 110,
141, 257 ;
Taming, Meaning of, 274
Tangier, Pigsticking near, 74
Teale, Mr. (killed and eaten by
a lion), 251
Thomson, Mr. (tossed by a
buffalo), 262
Thomson-Seton, Mr. (quoted),
288
Tibet, 50, 84
Tiger, able to climb, 112 ; and
swim, 114,
—, Adventures with, 258, 259
— as pet, 132
—, Cowardice of, 115
— cubs taken alive, 120
—, Destructiveness of, 13
- —, Food of, 103
— in the Sunderbunds, 116
— killed by unarmed native,
119; with spear and dagger,
117
—, Lion compared with, 97
—s method of catching mon-
keys, 108; and of eating
victim, 128
—, Mesmerising a, 117
— routed by elephant, 96
— shooting in Mysore, 121
—, Sportsmen killed by, 257
—s, two, at one shot, 126
“Tiger-cry” of the jackal,
113
Todas and their buffaloes, 277
Transvaal, Extermination of big
game in the, 318; Game Re-
serve, 306
Travancore, Elephant-shooting
in, 63
Travel, Easy conditions of mo-
dern, 44.
Trophies, Greed for, 332
Tsavo, Man-eating lions at, 107,
152
Tsetse-fly, The, 147, 309
Turkey, Game laws of, 324;
Treatment of horses in, 289
INDEX
Uganda Railway, 146
United States, Game laws of
the, 326
Van der Byl, Mr. P. B. (adven-
ture with a leopard), 260, 261,
Venom of lizards, 142; of,
snakes, 140
Ventriloquist, An Abyssinian,
164
Virginian deer in Canada, 227
Von Koppenfels (killed by a
buffalo), 263 \
Vulture, Marvellous eyesight of
the, 171
Wahlberg (killed by
elephant), 256
Wapiti-shooting, 224
Warfare, Camels in, 285, 286;
elephants in, 278
Wart-hog, Appearance
habits of, 213
Waterbuck, Man killed by a, 264
“ Water-elephant,” Newly-dis-
covered, 183
an
and
343
“White” elephant, 56; rhino-
ceros, 183
hide ats Mr. Caspar (quoted),
262
Wild boar, dog, sheep, etc. (see
Boar, Dog, Sheep)
Wildebeest and cheetah in Paris
Zoo, 294; grotesque appear-
ance of, 208; protection of
black, 317
Wilderness, The, 17
Williamson, Colonel (quoted),
Se et 110, 124, 132, 133, 134,
I
3
Wolhuter, Mr. (remarkable ad-
venture with two lions), 253
Wolves attacking man, 233
Yak in Canada,” 288; size and
strength of, 84; taming of, 17,
84, 288
fa Mr. (killed by anelephant),
25
Zebra, 204, 205; in harness, 297
BY THE SAME AUTHOR
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