QK

222

.H37

Hari>> John Hinchley

A botanist's ramble in Central
America y or, A trip to the
mainland

A BOTANIST'S RAMBLE

CENTRAL AMERICA;

OR,

A TRIP TO THE MAINLAND. *

6y

J. H. HART,

^ SUPERINTENDENT OE THE GOVERNMENT CI^TCHONA

^ PLANTATIONS, JAMAICA.

PRICE-^SIXPENCE.

JAMAICA :

MORTIMER C. DeSOUZA, PRINTER.
7, Church Street, Kingston.

1886.

A BOTANIST’S RAMBLE

IN

CENTRAL AMERICA;

OE,

A TRIP TO THE MAINLAND.

J. H. HART,

/ ( I ^

LIB!>ARY
r-iaw YORK
^■>TAr^CAL

(i.'.RDHiN

SUPEEINTENDENT OF THE OOVERNMENT CINCHONA

PLANTATIONS, JAMAICA.

PRICE— SIXPENCE.

JAMAICA :

MORTIMER C. DeSOUZA, PRINTER,
7, Church Street, Kingston.

1886.

CFAPTER I.

library

NE'V YORK

Voyage eeom Jamaica — Appearance of Old Providence — Island of San Andreas —
“ Captains”— “ Yankee Traders”— Trade of the Island— Cocoanuts — Currency
— Cocoanut Diseases — Animal Life.

CHAPTER II.

Fiest view of Mountains on Mainland— Bocas-del-Drago— Old Bank— Pro-
vidence Island— Character of Habitations — Weather — Temperature — Marine
Organisms Abundant— Mariana Creek — Alligator— Cattle— Provision Grounds
-“We-We”Ant— Plantains— Bananas— Sarsaparilla— Varieties of Cacao— Pro-
cess of Preparation— Quality of prepared Chocolate — “Wariha” or Wild Cacao,

CHAPTER III.

OECHIDS—Aroids— Ferns— The Peach Palm {Guilielma speciosa—Confivm.2iiion of
Humbolt’s observation on— Keeping qualities of the Fruit— Distribution of
Jamaica Plants— Browning’s Platyscopic Lens— Labour Question — Palms— The
“Arpoo” — The “ Raawa” — iErial Roots of — Character of Coast Rocks,
&c. — Whip Snake — Blunt Instruments used to destroy Snakes— Bocas-del-
Tora — Brassavola Kodosa — “Indian Ink.”

CHAPTER IV.

JouENBY TO Jessy Town on the Waei-biarea Rivee— Missionary Party— Size
and character of (Janoe — Thirty miles of open Sea — Crossing the Bar — The
Wari-biarra — Raphia tjedigera — Mon. Rothchild on the influence of Ve-
getation — ^Wallace’s description — Riley’s Ranch — “ Baboons” — Macaws-— Tou-
cans — Turkey Qualm {Penelope crlstata)—l^i\di Cane — The Rapids — Indian
Paint, source of — Mission House— Pimento Palm— Dogs— Silk Grass.

CHAPTER V.

Palms and Wild Plantains Maize— Preparation of Maize called

Bou-you — Curiosity of Indians at Photographic operations — Selaginellas

Contretemps in the River— Castilloa elastica- Superstitions and probable
explanations— Penelope, description and weight of— Flavour of.

CHAPTER VI.

Passifloeavitifolia. H.B.K.— Banana Plantations— Cultivation of the* Banana
and mode of Shipping — Rice — Canes— Soopa— Vanilla — Fodder grasses—
“ Guanga”— Mainland Cocoanuts inferior in flavour to Island growth— Re-
marks on healthiness of the District— Snakes and Snake cures, &c The

return Voyage— Use of the Mangrove— Bumping the Bottom— Arrival at Quar-
ters.

CHAPTER VII.

Visit to Nancy’s Cay— “ Poke-under-boy”— Samba Gum, probable source of—
Alsophila blechnoides— “Boques Mouth”— Naseberries (Achras sapota)— Shark
Stories— Indian figures— “ Eye-stones”— Fear of Snakes— Work of Land Crabs
—Crossing the Bull’s Mouth at Night— “ Bocatora”— Independence Day-
Fire arms — Cricket — Value of Local Currency. ^

CHAPTER VIII.

Afeican Oil Palm— Granadilla— Bromelia pita— Breadfruit— Cassava— Tobacco
— Limes — Oranges— “ Ackee”— Green skinned Cocoanut — Sloth— Smooth Ca-
yenne Pine— Climate of the Interior — Suitability for Cinchona — Tea, Coffee
&c.— Land Tenure— On the start for Home— Delays— Wreck of Schooners— The
Maggie B,— Colon— Disgusting state of the Streets— Advice to those about to
go There— Home in the Belize S. S.— List of Plants found— Professor Dyer’s
courtesy.

■. K- ■>>

A BOTANIST’S RAMBLE IN CENTRAL AMERICA ;

OK,

A TRIP TO THE MAINLAND.

Chapter I.

Voyage from Jamniaa — Appearances of Old Providence — Island of San Andreas
— Captains^’’ — "‘Yanliee Iraders^"' — Irade of the Island — Gocoanuts — Cur-
rency — Cocoaiiut Diseases — Animal Life.

f HE luxuriousness of the vegetation in many parts of Central
America had been described by Belt and other travellers of
a kindred nature to the author of The Naturalist in
Nicaragua” with such realistic vividness, that it offered an in-
ducement to anyone interested in Botanical research to seize
upon the first opportunity that presented itself to pay a visit to its
shores, to see for himself the wonders of a truly tropical flora.

The opportunity having occurred to the writer, through the
kind invitation of the Bev. Wm. Griffith to accompany him- on a
short missionary tour in and about the neighbourhood of the
great Lagoon of Chiriqui, was at once accepted.

Having taken our passage on the Atlas stmr. Arran, which
for some time past has been making regular trips to this coast,
we set sail from Kingston, Jamaica, on Sunday, Nov. 8th, at 5 in
the evening for our destination. We had not proceeded far
down the harbour, however, before we were compelled to come to
anchor, owing to a slight accident having happened to the ma-
chinery. This was repaired during the night, and at daylight
we were under weigh, and after dipping our flag at Port Eoyal
to'H. M. Guardship, we made for the open sea through the south-
ern channel. The concomitant disadvantages of a sea voyage
usually observed among landsmen for the first day or two, were
in this instance not particularly noticeable, for the weather was
beautiful, and the sea as smooth as if the ship had been in har-
bour. This unusual calm was said on all sides by those accus-
tomed to judge, to be too good to last, and though we have since
heard that their judgment was quite correct, still, while we were
on board the weather continued everything that could be de-
sired.

Early on Wednesday the 11th, the island of Old Providence
came dimly into sight on our starboard boWj presenting an out-
line in form somewhat the shape of a cottage loaf. This island,
the scene of many futile expeditions in search of buried trea-
sure supposed to be concealed in bygone years by Buccaneers,
was gradually passed during the morning, and soon after lunch
the island of San Andreas, or Saint Andrews, loomed in the dis-

H 4 liAM4iiiS IN t’isNTHAjj AMkliiyA J

tance. At 4 p.m. it was in full view, and the wreck of a large
vessel lying on a surf-covered reef demonstrated the dangerous
character of the approaches to the harbour for sailing vessels dur-
ing stormy weather. At 6 p. m. we had passed the entrance and
were snugly at anchor iu the harbour. The deck of the steamer
was soon crowded with Captains (all are Captains here) from va-
rious parts of the island, who had business with the Captain of
the Arran. I was introduced to one who politely informed me
that he ''kept a shop.’’ Two or three Captains of American ves-
sels lying in the harbour also boarded us. 1 was informed that
these gentlemen, otherwise ycleped "Yankee Traders” bring
down cargoes consisting of groceries, hardware, crocker}^ glass,
cotton and woollen goods, silks, and other articles of house-
hold economy, which they barter for the cocoanuts grown on the
Island, in some instances staying for several months, doing a good
retail trade with the Islanders. Capt. Brown of the Arran hav-
ing invited us to a seat in his boat, we next morning paid a visit
to the shore, landing at a place called " The Grolf” in the midst
of a handsome grove of cocoanuts, in fact wherever we had land-
ed, it must have been the same, for the Island is truly an Island
of Cocoanuts. We were introduced to one of the principal trad-
ers and entered his establishment, on one side of which were dis-
played his wares, and the other formed his " till,” by which
must be understood that the currency of the Island for the most
part of consists of cocoanuts, and a portion of the building had
to be set aside for their storage. The value of these at the time
of our visit was from ft25 to #30 per thousand.

I had made preparation for collecting, and in the short time
available filled my vasculum, with numerous Herbarium speci-
mens. The Flora of the Island, as was to be expected, resem-
bled in general characters that of Jamaica. A few provision
grounds were to be seen here and there between the splendid co-
coanut groves which are par-excellence the mainstay of the Is-
land. Fortunately for the growers, the many enemies to which
this tree is subject in other lands, appear there to be almost en-
tirely absent. The trees everywhere, although subjected to the
apparently universal drought prevalent for the past few years in
all the Caribbean Islands, were the picture of health and laden
with nuts, the size of which in general did not appear to be larger
than those grown in Jamaica, but they were decidedly heavier
for their size. Many trees were bearing enormous crops, some
of which were estimated to produce at one picking nearly a muler
cart load of ripe nuts.

No " borer” nor beetle is present I was informed, but on the
northside the trees appear to sufier slightly from a fungus which

A T31IJ’ TO THE MAIiqT-ANl).

7

is probably a species of Capnodium, and in some places whatjis
called blight/’ caused by the attacks of minute scale insects,
did some damage to the trees. In discussing the ravages of the
beetle” with a fellow-passenger hailing from the Mosquito
Coast, he mentioned that the insect was highly prejudicial in his
district, so much so that the cultivation was much restricted in
consequence. From his description and sketch the particular in-
sect which is so destructive, would appear to belong to the Cur-
cidionidce or snouted beetles, the whole family of which are des-
tructive to grain, fruit, and vegetable products in general.

Animal life was not abundant, except those belonging to the
genus Sus. These porcine quadrupeds were everywhere, and ap-
peared to thrive remarkably well. Not a single specimen of the
‘^Railsplitter” type, as they are called in America was visible, a
circumstance which is possibly accounted for by the abundance
of food afforded by the cocoanut. Charming little ponies, in
splendid condition were fairly numerous and appear to be very
useful in the transit of the staple product. Each rider when
coming into the settlement uses two coarse nets, slung in pack
saddle fashion behind him, for the purpose of carrying cocoanuts
to be used in payment for goods purchased.

Many of the reefs, otherwise barren, are planted up with co-
coanut trees, and yield their owners good crops, which are har-
vested at convenient times in fair weather, for in stormy weather
they are unapproachable on account of the heavy seas. Some
reefs lying far from land are also planted, which besides yield-
ing a profitable crop, are of great service to navigators, as when
so planted they can be seen at greater distances.

We left Saint Andrews shortly after 10 a. m. and then made
for Bocas-del-Tora, which hove in sight early next morning.

Chapter II.

M?^st View of Mountains on Mainland— Booas-del-Brago— Old Bank — Provi-
dence Island— Character of Habitations— Weather — leinperature — Marine
Organisms Abundant — Marianna Creek — Alligator— Cattle — Provision
Grounds — “ We Wd' ' Ant— Plantains'— Bananas — Sarsajmrilla — Varieties of
Cacao— Process of Preparation— Quality of Prepared Chocolate—'' Wariba'"
Wild Cacao.

In my last I should have said, sighted the land, for J3ocas-del-
Tora was yet some miles to the southward. We neared the
coast rapidly, and the long ranges of majestic mountains on the
mainland became clearly visible, one or tw^o of the peaks being
pointed out to us as being active Yolcanos. From the chart we
ascertained that one of these was 11,000 feet above sea level, and
that several reached a height of 7,000 feet and over.

We entered the Lagoon of Ghiriqui by a zig-zag course be-
tween an Island and a point of the Mainland through a passage

^ A liOTANT^T^'^ llAMMLB IN CENTltAT. AMEHIOA j

known to navigators as Bocas-del-Drago, or Mouth of the Dra-
gon, but locally known as Boque’s Mouth.” Once inside, a
broad expanse of water was before us, almost deserving the term
of inland sea ; for certainly the term Lagoon, as it is generally
understood is not an appropriate name for these waters. To our
left was Columbus Island, and on the right at some distance was
the large Island called ^^Goco Cay.” For some ten miles a
straight course was followed, when rounding a point of land with
the helm hard a starboard,” we reached the anchorage opposite
the settlement or town of Bocas-del-Tora. The town is situated
as its name denotes, near the passage of the BulTs Mouth.”
This consists of two entrances divided in the centre by Careen-
ing Cay,” which is a narrow slip of land supposed to represent
the tongue of the bull. The left passage is impassable for all but
small boats, while in the right there is sufficient water for the
entrance of the largest ships. We were met here by members of
Mr. Griffith’s Church, and as there was no Customs’ official to.
delay us, we had our traps transferred to a fine sailing boat and
were soon speeding across the Bull’s Mouth” to the settlement
of ^^Old Bank,” situated at the north-end of Providence Island,
which was to be our head- quarters for the time being.

On arrival we found that a house was set apart for the
use of the Minister and his friend during their stay. This was a
well erected w^ooden building, clean, well furnished, with polish-
ed floors, stained ceilings and papered walls, and was provided
with many conveniences not to be looked for in houses belonging
to the same class of people in Jamaica. It was to my mind dis-
tinct evidence in favour of the possibility of elevating in the
social scale the classto which its owner belonged. Kor was it a
solitary instance simply, for a large proportion of the houses in
the settlement were of the same character.

The weather was fine, and the heat was not at all oppressive ;
in fact, it appeared to me that it was much cooler than in Kingston,
which was probably owing to the sea breeze, for on consulting
the thermometer we found that the night temperature ranged
from 80 to 85 deg. Fahr.

It was arranged that we should pay a visit to the provision
grounds of some members of the settlement early the next morn-
ing, and for that purpose a boat or ''dug-out” capable of carry-
ing eight persons was to hand soon after daylight. Spme half-
hour afterwards we were afloat, and, propelled by two paddles
only, were soon gliding at a rapid rate dowm the Lagoon. There
being no Avind, the water was as clear as crystafl and at depths
of 10 to 15 feet we could see the bottom which was covered with
innumerable forms of marine organisms, to observe Ayhich af-

oii'i A it'liijj I’o 0

forded us constant amusement during the journey. An hour
spent in this delightful occupation, brought us to Mariana
Creek.’ This was a channel about ten. feet wide, which, at a
short distance away was scarcely observable. It was covered
with mangroves, and reminded one very forcibly of the descrip-
tions by Mayne Reid of the hiding places of Indians, in some cf
the tales of our boyhood.

We bad not proceeded far, however, before our olfactory
nerves were considerably affected by the stench arising from a
dead alligator, and all haste was made to pass this uninviting por-
tion of the route. Further inland the creek narrowed somewhat
and we passed through tracts of marshy lands covered with a
luxuriant growtii of the '' Swamp Fern”* Acrostichum (Chryso)
AUREUM, Linn. From the roots of a mangrove, some three feet
above water, we collected plants of .Brassavola nodosa, Lindl.
a fine white flowered orchid, which yielded such a delicate per-
fume as to effectually banish the thoughts of the dead alligator
we had recently passed. At the landing place I observed a fine
specimen of a coniferous tree (Finds Cubensis ?) On enquiry
I found this had been brought from Bluefields, on the Mos-
quito Coast, and planted here by one of the settlers.

On leaving the landing place we proceeded for some dis-
tance on gradually rising ground, through some fine pasture
land, a large tract of which was enclosed Avith fences constructed
of barbed wire. Inside this enclosure were grazing a small herd
of white and black-spotted cattle in splendid condition. They
Avere small but beautifully proportioned, obtained — I learnt from
our guides — from the Yalicnte” Indians who live on the main-
land.

Some half a mile onAA^ard Ave reached a cottage pleasantly
situated on a knoll overlooking the sea, in the midst of a splen-
did grove of cocoanut trees. We rested here aAvhile and then
made our way to the adjacent provision fields. Here Avere found
plantains, bananas, pumpkins, cassava, sweet potatoes, yams, &c.,
growing in the greatest profusion. The only enemy they ap-
peared to have to contend Avith being the ^We-Ave,” or Umbrella
Ant. This insect — although very destructive it is true- did
not appear to affect the general results of the cultiA^ation — and
the groves of Cacao on the outskirts of the field were in most
instances untouched by it.

We found large colonies of this insect in every district we
traversed and it is Avithout doubt in a great measure due to the
labours of these little creatures, assisted by the numerous land-
crabs, that the probably once barren coral rocks Avhich form the
foundation of these islands, are raised from sea level to become

10

A JiuTANlBT'S iUMJiLE IN UENTUAL AMKlUCA J

fertile fields adapted for the production of food for the human
race. Enormous trees, from 50 to over 100 feet high, were com-
monly met with. Wishing to procure seed of one of these large
trees, "l expended several cartridges from a good fowling piece,
in the endeavour to bring down a few seed pods, but fruitlessly,
for the lower branches must have been at least 90 feet from the
ground.

Plantains and bananas produce large bunches, which meet a
ready sale on the spot, at the hands of Captains of trading
schooners, running to and fro to the Isthmus of Panama. Sarse,”
the roots of a species of Smilax known to commerce as ‘’Sarsapa-
rilla,” also meets a ready sale, large quantities being grown at
various places in the Lagoon, and not a little is produced and
brought down by the Indians from the mainland.

The varieties of Cacao (Theoeroma Cacao.) were numerous
and may briefly be described as follows -1st, green-skinned ; 2nd,
red-skinned; 3rd, yellow-skinned; 4th, white-skinned; and 5th, one
we did not see, but described to us as a long tuberculated one, of
very superior quality. The most commonly cultivated were the
white and red-skinned varieties, but the green-skinned is a very
heavy cropper and produces beans of excellent quality^ — pods of
all these were collected and brought part of the way on our
homeward journey, but a delay of some days in Colon resulted
in tlieir entire loss which was much to be regretted, as they
would doubtless have proved fine additions to the varieties
already under cultivation here. The beans prcduced are large
in size, and of excellent quality which is proved by their
selling on the spot to American traders at the rate of 25cts.
per lb. (local currency.) The mode of preparation is simple in
the extreme, and easily managed. The beans are first placed in
a small covered vessel in the full sun, for two or three days to
ferment, and are then washed and dried without the application
of the “ claying process” in any form.

Chocolate of good quality is manufactured locally. The
beans are first roasted, then deprived of their skins and after-
wards ground on a small flat porous stone, the crushing instru-
ment, also of stone, being of a shape similar to a house-wife’s
rolling-pin. We had frequent opportunities for testing this pre-
paration and often declared, that if travellers of the olden time
tasted as good a mixture as it wns our fortune to drink, it was
no wonder that they described it as being “ Food for the gods”
which appellation, derived from Tiieos ‘ god’ and Broma food;
was the origin of the scientific generic name TjiEojmoMA.

QU, A 'HUr TO TIIK iSlATNl^AKO.

II

Another distinct species of cacao was met with, which though
of doubtful value as an economic plant, was of sufficient Botani-
cal interest, to induce us to spare no pains to introduce it into
this Island, in which endeavour I am glad to say we w’ere prima-
rily successful, as growing plants reached Kingston in safety, and
are now contributed to the Castleton Botanical Garden, where
with a congenial climate and under the care of the energetic Su-
perintendent of that establishment, it is to be hoped they will fur-
nish valuable material for future experiments. The plant has
been scientifically determined, and proves to be Theobhoma
nicoLOR Humb, AND BoNPL. Its local names are Tiger Cocoa,’’
Indian Chocolate’’ and Wariba.” The latter being the Indian
name for the tree, which would appear to suggest some connec-
tion with the W aid” or wild hog, of which large droves exist
on the Mainland. The tree itself is of a stout spreading habit,
its trunk and branches being much thicker than those of the
ordinary kinds ; but is not so erect in its mode of growth.
It is cultivated and used- -on a small scale onl}^ — by the In-
dians and Spanish half-breeds but is not esteemed by the Creole”
settlers on account of a peculiar flavour it is said to possess.
It produces a much larger pod than the common cultivated kind,
with a curiously netted and ribbed exterior shell, which consists
principally of woody material, requiring a strong cutlass or saw
to open. In the Cacao groves, we saw many trees of the ordinary
kind reaching a height of over 40 feet, while the Tiger
Cocoa” seldom reaches more than 15 or 20 feet.

Several plants of a tree locally known as the Wild Cocoa”
were met with in the forest, and botanical specimens duly
secured which proves the plant to bo, not a Cacao, but
a species belonging to the allied genus llerrama. The plant has
but a small single stem, its leaves resembling at a short distance,
those of the common Papaw (Oarica Papaya.) The pods are
small, ten ribbed, with roundish seeds, covered with a’ thick
sweetish pulp and is much sought after as a bush” delicacy by
the juvenile members of the community, but at present it does
not appear to possess any better recommendation, though as an
ornamental plant it would be deserving a place in any tropical
garden.

A UOTANIST’s ilAAlin.K IN ('KN'l'Il L AMKIUCA ;

Chapter II.T.

,>rjruh~- Arom^—Fbvm—The Pefioh Palm (Gmlielmti spedosa) Conjirmcithm of

Jumaicn Plaiits-Bnmiiinfs P/atj/scopw £ms-Laboi‘ Qoof wn -Palms- ^
"^Arpoo'' — llw 'Alaamid jPrial Moots of Character of Coast Rochs, . t)C.
Wkqj Snalie — Blunt Instruments^ used to destroy Snahes Boons- del- lor a
Brassm'ola Itodosa — ^Pndian InhP

The most plentiful orchid met with in our wanderings, was
Catasetuai tridExA'tatuai, Hook. There were numerous other
species, but as the generality of tnem were not in floAsci, they
were not so attractive as they would probably be at other seasons.
The Aroidje were v^ery abundant, and covered the trunks of
trees to the very top, one of these particularly noticeable on ac-
count of the bright scarlet colour of its spadix, though situated
at a height of 50 feet from the ground, was soon brought down
by one of our guides, who easily reached it by help of one of the
numerous '' liana’s” which surrounded the trunk.

Several Oarlitdovica’s also attracted attention especially a
small climbing one, with deeply 2-fid leaves, and also one of
larger growth, they are probably 0 . gracilis, Liep.m. and 0 .
LATIFOIAA, R. P.,— Carltihoahca Fluaiierit, kth. the ''Epiappa”
of Jamaica was also abundant.

Perns Avere plentiful, though the genera and species repre-
sented were few. One of the handsomest was Lvgodilm digita-
TUAi, Eat , a graceful climbing fern Avhich hung from the trees
in immense festoons in many places. Several Polypodiuai’s,
Adiantum’s, and Trichoaianes were found, among the latter the
curiously proliferous T. elegans, Avhich Avas met Avith in large
quantities in deep shady woods and in several localities. Lindsaya
(iUADRANGULARis, Dry, a tern indigenous to Jamaica, but rarely
found, Avas met Avith on our trip in one instance only. On our return
from the morning’s outing Ave examined the locality around the
settlement in Avhich Ave Avere residing and found that little
cultHation Avas attenapted near the clAvellings, but that groves of
Cacao and cocoanuts abounded eA^eryAvhere, Avhile many of the
inhabitants took great pride in showdng me their Soopa” trees.
This is a palm Avell known under tbe name of cf Gtiulielaia
speciosa, AiART., but iiov/ referred by the authors of the Genera
Plantaruai to the genus Bactris. Wallace in his Palais oe
THE Aaiazon” thus describes it. This most picturesque and
elegant Palm lias the stem slender, cylindrical, and thickly set
with long needle-shaped spines disposed in rings or bands. It
reaches sixty feet in height, and groAvs quite erect, though in ex-
posed situations it becomes curved and Avaving. The leaA^es are
very numerous, terminal, pinnate and drooping, forming a nearly
spherical croAvn to the stem ; and the leaflets groAving out of

A TliTj^ TO MOTE M ATN LAN 0.

the midrib in various directions and being themselves curled and
waved, give the whole mass of foliage a singularly plumy appear-
ance/” The fruit is the size of an apricot, of a triangular oval
shape and fine reddish-yellow colour. In most instances the seed
is abortive^ the whole fruit being a farinaceous mass.”

This Palm appears to be indigenous to the countries near
the Andes. On the Amazon and llio Negro, it is’never found
wild. It is mentioned by Ilumbolt’s as having a smooth polished
stem, which is a mistake.” With this last conclusion of the clever
author of the above quotations I am compelled to disagree as I
found numerous trees of the smooth-stemmed variety growing in
the same district, thus confirming Ilumboit’s observation. Though
producing fruit identical with each other, there is a difference in
the character of the foliage, which would by some be considered
of sufficient importance, to warrant a specific distinction being
made. The Palm according to Ilumbolt, was known to the
YeiiezUelan Indians under the name of Pirijao.” It is most
commonly knowm as the Peach Palm’” from the similarity of
its fruit, in size and colour to some species of the genus
Amygdalus, to which the almond, peach and nectarine belong.
The fruits are eaten either boiled or roasted and have a
flavour^ — to our taste — combining that of roasted Spanish chest-
nut and sweet potato. As they were said to be very wholesome
I ate several, and though I found them very satisfying on
account of the quantity of starch they contained, yet neverthe-
less their flavour was keenly enjoyed. They are said by Wal-
lace in the aforementioned work to be also groundup into flour
and made into cakes which are roasted like cassava bread ; or
the meal is fermented in water and forms a subacid creamy li-
quid. Parrots, Macaws and Monkeys eat them greedily, but the
latter gentry in wild state are prevented from obtaining
them by the prickly nature of the stem,” though this fact
would not apply to the non-aculeated variety and possibly
accounts for its greater scarcity. The trees were growing at
sea level, and as the temperature is similar, I believe it
would be an excellent plant to introduce for glowing on the
plains of Jamaica, especially in such districts as Black Piver
and the plains of St, Elizabeth. Only a few^ seeds were ob-
tainable and these have been carefully pdaced under suitable
conditions for germination, but in the season, large quanti-
ties could be procured. As an article of food, it would certainly
be a valuable plant to the poorer inhabitants of this Island, pro"-,
vided they Vould be induced to overcome their invariable preju-
dice against Buckra tings.” The fruit will stand transport
with great facility when ripe. I had a single one wEnch I kept

14

A llOXANr.sTV ItAMlVI.H lA’rKNTRAI. AMUliUA ;

for some 2o days^ aud then it w.as found in a comparatively sound
condition on my arrival in Jamaica, They are often carried os
Produce to Colon where they meet with a ready sale.

Eeturning to our quarters in the evening we distributed
among the peoploj a set of Economic plants we had brought with
us from Jamaica. The most desired appeared to be Nutmegs,
Pimento, and Mangoes of the No. 11 variety, only a few of the
coarser kinds of the Jatter fruit being under cultivation. The
Mango is a favourite object of attack with tne ‘‘ We-We’ or Um-
brella Ant and special means have to be taken to guard the trees
from their attacks. One of the most efficient methods, appeared to
be that of forming a tin trough around the tree, which was filled
to a depth of two or three inches with coal tar ; and this plan was
also adopted to preserve the dwelling bouses from the attacks of
wood ants, by placing the same kind of trough around the piles,
on which the majority of the houses were constructed.

The people were very eager to obtain notes as to cultivation
in regard to the plants distributed, as well as those in common
cultivation, and being asked to do so, I treated them to a short
exposition on the first principles of Horticulture, during which
considerable wonder was excited by showing them the dilferent
parts of a plant, as seen through Browning’s Platyscopic lens, an
indispensable article of outfit to the Naturalist and llotanist in
any part of the world.

The next day we visited other provision grounds situated in a
different direction, but found them similar in general appearance
to those mentioned. On enquiry into the question of labour,
it appeared that it was of. a somewhat intermittent character.
The heavier duties being performed by the Spanish and Indian
portion of the population. The rate for ordinary Creole labour
was 75 cents, per day and the others lower in proportion — the
residents of African descent thus being entirely masters of the
situation.

We met with several groups of large and highly ornamental
palms ; that locally known as the Aiipoo” which I take to be
a species of Iriartea being very plentiful, as was also the
''Eaawa,” Socratea (Iriartea) Exhoriza, Mart.

The stem of the former plant possesses a hardened exterior
which is about one and a half inches in thickness, very solid, and
straight in the grain. It is utilized for making rods, used in
striking the bawks-bill turtle ; an occupation which affords to the
inhabitants a means of emolument by no means to be despised seeing
that the tortoise-shell sells at the rate of per lb. on the spot.

0H| a TO TiiJi MAIHliAKI).

u

The rods are made of various lengths according to the pre-
ference or skill, of the individual who uses them. Along and
heavy rod in the hands of a skilful man is usually considered the
most destructive, hut the average length may I think be put at
about 10 feet. It has its largest diameter (IJ inches) at about
one-third of its length, and then gradually tapers to each end, at
the base to about three-quarters of an inch, and at the top to a
slender point. On the thickest end is placed a brass ferule, in-
side which is a small cavity for the reception of the barb or fang,
an instrument' laboriously made locally from large old three-
cornered files. It is about six inches in length with an arrow-
shaped head ^nd two or three rows of barbs formed from the
angles of the file at regular intervals. At the end nearest where
it is fitted to the ferule is a collar, around which is bound a strong
cotton cord, the thickness of a Cod-line.” This passes through
a loop fixed to the staff at its centre, and the remaining length
some 40-60 feet is neatly coiled down in the bows of the canoe.
When a turtle is struck the barb pierces the shell, and the rod
(detached by the force of the blow) acts as a float to indicate the
direction the game has taken in its attempt to escape.

Turtle are taken by this method only when found basking
in the sun on the surface of the water, the approach being made
very carefully by canoes, using paddles as a means of progres-
sion ; but they are also captured in large quantities by means of
the nets made by the female portion of the community, the un-
married members of which are for a great part of the year occu-
pied in this manufacture. The nets being let on shares” to the
turtle fishers, they form — for the makers — a very suitable means of
obtaining a livelihood ; in fact, almost the only means that is
open to single women, other than cultivating provisions, which,
however, is seldom attempted except by the poorest class.

The ^^Raawa” has a much thinner exterior than the Aii-
poo” and though sometimes used for the same purpose is not
considered so serviceable, and is therefore relegated to the subor-
dinate position of furnishing material for lathing and flooring of
native huts on the provision grounds.

What strikes attention to this tree, and renders it peculiar is
that the upper portion of each root is entirely above ground.
They spring out of the stem, each successive one higher up the
trunk than the last, and extend diagonally till they approach the
surface, when they ramify into smaller rootlets and enter the
ground. As fresh ones spring out from the stem, those which
previously supported the tree rot, or die oft in regular succession,
thus leaving the entire trunk (often 60-80 feet in height) entirely
supported by the concentric rings of outer roots, so that in old

Itl A BOTANIST-^ BAMnAK 4N iJiiNTlUJi A^lKiiKJAJ

trees a full grown man may stand erect beneath the bole.
The aerial part of the roots are thickly covered with tubercu-
lar prickles— which is without doubt a provision of Nature for
their defence against the attacks of lierbivorus animals , it
also serves the purpose of supplying the Indians with an efficient
natural grater, which enables them to reduce their Cassava to a
pulp.

Travelling over a considerable tract of country we reached
the east side of the Island, or that exposed to the full force of
the strong winds and currents so prevalent in the Caribbean seas.
In the words of Mrs. Ilemans,

The breaking waves dashed high on a stern and rock -hound coast,

And the woods against a stormy, sky their giant branches tossed.

which was literally true also of the place on which we stood, as
well as of that portion of the hemisphere farther north, on which
the Pilgrim Fathers landed.

The rocks were very hard, heavy, of dark colour, composed of
pebbles cemented together, forming what appeared to us to be —
on superficial examination only — a ferruginous conglomerate. They
were covered with marine mollusca, of many different species,
and abounded with crabs of all sizes, which were sporting hither
and thither over them, occasionally w'ashed off* by the spray from
the breakers. Passing a bluff, on a steep ledge of rocks, our guide
suddenly halted, and sang out in aloud tone of voice the single
word — snake ! On approaching the spot, he was found engaged in
chasing a whip snake,‘which he soon killed by a blow with the back
of the cutlass. I asked why he used the back instead of the edge
of the weapon, and found that the people always used a blunt in-
strument when brought in contact witli these reptiles, which was
caused by a popular idea, that if the head of a venomous snake
was severed from the body, the head itself retained a sufficiency
ol muscular power to effectually use its fangs. I preserved the
body of this one and on making an incision in the abdomen to
allow of the entry of the preservative fluid, I extracted from it
the body of a small lizzard. In length the snake measured three
feet nine inches, with a diameter of not more than half an inch.
It has been, together with some pretty little tree frogs, presented
to the Museum of the Jamaica Institute.

Approaching the Bull’s Mouth,’’ (Bocas del Tora) on our
homeward journey we turned a small headland, and found the
rocks there, abounding with enormous quantities of Brassavola
nodosa, Lindl., in full bloom ; in fact, the rocks were literally
white with the expanded flowers of this beautiful species. To cul-
tivators of orchids, it will be a fact of no little interest to note,

DB, A TBlB TO THB MAIKLANi). , 17

that these plants were growing on hard, barren rocks, washed at
times by sea-spray, and shaded only by the over-hanging cocoanut
and other trees that were scattered along the beach. The same
plant was also found making its home on the clean stems or roots
of trees, but nowhere was it found in suck luxuriousness as on
this rocky headland.

There was seen near this spot a specimen of. the same kind
of tree, from which I had formerly tried to detach seed with the
fowling piece ; but though equally inaccessible, I was glad to find
that it was in blossom and that some fairly perfect flowers had
fallen to the ground. These were duly secured, and from even
this scant material, the name of the tree has been determined.
I learnt that it produced a dye or pigment used by the’ Indians
for painting their faces, and it may therefore possibly prove of
economic value. It is locally known as the Indian Ink tree,”
but scientifically as Genipa Americana, L.

Chapter IY,

Journey to Jessy Town on the Wari-Marra River — Missionary Party — Size and
character of .Canoe — Ihirty miles of open Sea— Crossing thcBar—lhe Wari-
hiarra — Raphia, tcedigera—Mon. Rothcliild on the influence of Vegetation —
Wallace's descriation— Riley's Ranch — '‘Raboons" — Macaws — Toucans— lurhey
Qualm (Penelope cristata) — Wild Cane — The Rapids— Indian Paint source
of— Mission House— Pimento Palm— Dogs— Silh Grass.

A day or two afterwards we prepared for a journey into the
interior, to a place called Jessy Town. This was a mission station,
kept up and maintained solely by the local Methodist Free
Church for the Indians living on the banks of, and in the neigh-
bourhood of the Wari-biara or Wild Hog River.

A stock of provisions and the necessary camping material
having been duly provided, we set sail accompanied by a
Missionary party of four men and six women, whom, with Mr.
Griffiths and the writer made up a complement of 12 persons.
Our means of transit was a splendid canoe, beautifully built or
rather ^^dug out” of cedar (Cedrela odorata, L.). It measured
30 feet in length and 5 feet 6 inches in beam, having an added
gunwale of some 8 inches, and strengthened with ribs at intervals
of 18 inches. She was furnished with two masts, each of which
carried a sail of triangular shape, and were fitted with light and
portable booms, while to a short and stout bowsprit the gib was
made fast. When close hauled she was a good sailer, but
when before the wind she proved to be a regular Deer-hound.^*
We started with a fair wind at about 8 a. ra. and made our
way to the southward down the Lagoon, at mid-day landing at
Salm-wood point on the south-west extremity of Pope’s Island,
where we stayed but a few minutes only for refreshment, as we

IB A omm.ih AMj^EiUA I

were unxious to make the mouth of the river before darkness set
in. Getting under weigh again we had a tine and favourable
breeze to assist us in making our way over an open stretch of some
30 miles of water. We encountered several squalls, and numerous
others were seen in the distance, which made the sea very
lumpy, and at times occasioned a dash of water over the side.
W^e arrived off the bar at about 5 p.m. and found it covered
with surf, only a very narrow channel of still water being observ-
able, and on that also at times the rollers were breaking heavily.
Our Captain,” however, having made necessary preparations
and watching for a favourable opportunity, put his boat at it, the
remainder of the crew meanwhile^ — standing by — prepared for.
eventualities. . In a second or two, we were among the breakers,
and our boat grounded or bumped slightly on the bar, when the
crew immediattdy rose to their feet, and with all their force
commenced poling to get over, ere a breaker should burst upon
us. In this they were successful, and we had the satisfaction of
seeing the next roller break too far away to do anything but
assist us in clearing the shallows. W^e were now in smooth
water, and in a few minutes afterwards we entered the mouth of
the WahI'Biakra.

On entrance into the river we found it a swift flowing stream
some 50 yards in width, its banks on both sides completely
covered with a majestic palm locally known as the “ Silicoo.”
This tree is known to Botanists under the name of Baphia
TtEDIGERA, Mart., and according to the authors of Genera
Plantarum” it is the only American species of the genus, the
remaining five or six, which constitute all at present known, being
natives of Tropical Africa and Madagascar.

Messrs. Bentham and Hooker give the following as the
habitats of the genus : —

“ Africa tropida et Madagascarise incolm et una Americana
ab Amazonum ostia ad Nicaraguam extensa.”

It is a handsome and noble tree and appears to exult in the
swampy alluvial deposit which is a characteristic of the district
for some miles inland. The large quantity of trees and their lux-
uriant growth without doubt, form one of the provisions of nature
for rendering such tracts of country habitable for human beings,
and probably exert in this their own home an equally beneficent
inEuence on the hygiene of the neighbourhood, as do the Euca-
lyptus, and other trees of luxuriant growth, in situations where
from the dampness of the locality their presence is required to
absorb the superabundant moisture.- In an elegant illustrated
I rench work entitled Les Palmierb,” edited by Mon. Roth-

OH;, A TRTX’ TO TTIE MAINLAND.

19

chiHj the folIoMhng comment is made on the beneficial influence
exerted by members of the order Palma3, both in arid as well as
humid districts : —

Si, dans les contrees tropicales marecageuses les palmiers
favorisent Tassecheraent du sol, ils exercent aussi une bienfaisante,
influence sur Phygiene et la fertilite des contrees desertiques, re-
tardant I’evaporation trop rapide des eaux pluvials sous les rayons
du soleil, et conservant' ainsi plus longtemps au sol I’humidite
necessaire a la culture.

Grace au voisinage des tallies de chamgerops hdmilts, cer-
taines terres arides pu etre utilement cultivees en i^lgeria et en
Espagne.”^ •

It will be seen therefore that not only is vegetable life gene-
rally beneficial, but that it exerts its influence for the well-being
of man in more directions than one at the same time.

Wallace describes the Raphia as being one of the most strik-
ing of the noble palms which grow on the rich alluvium of the
Amazon, and after noting its local name of Jupati” he goes on to
describe it in the follov/ing manner : — ^^Its comparatively short
stem enables us fully to appreciate the enormous size of its
leaves, which at the same time are remarkable for their elegant
form. They rise vertically from the stem and bend out on every
side in graceful curves forming a magnihcient plume seventy
feet in height and forty in diameter.’’’ The leaves alone of those
we saw on the Warri-Biarra Ptiver were fully fifty feet in length
and about six to eight in width, forming as Wallace says, pro-
bably the largest sized leaf in the whole vegetable kingdom.”
The tree bears a fruit oval in outline, some three inches in
length, and two in diameter, which is covered with regularly im-
bricated brown polished scales, making it look at first sight, more
like the fruit of a coniferous tree than the seed of a palm. It
forms a very pretty ornament for the drawing room table when
fully ripe. For some two or three miles our route lay through the
district on which these trees were growing, but ere we had reached
their inland limit, we were overtaken by a perfect deluge of rain,
which effectually put a stop to our observations for the evening.
The storm continued for two or three hours during which we pro-
gressed but slowly, as v/e were now propelled by oars only, and
the gathering darkness made our journey anything but acomfort-

* If in swampy tropical countries palms favor draining of the soil, they ex-
ercise too a benehcient influence upon the Hygiene, and the fertility of desert
countries retarding rapid evaporation of the rain water bj'' the rays of the
sun, conserving to the soil for a long time, the humidity necessary for cultivation .

Thanks to the vicinity of copses of Chamasrops Humilis certain barren wastes
have been profitably cultivated in Algeria and Bpain.

20 A botanist’s ramble in central AMERICA

able one. However, sometime after dark we arrived at Biley’s
Banch,” a building situated on a banana plantation, and erected
for the convenience and shelter of the labourers engaged thereon.
We found this tenanted by numerous Indians and their dogs, but
as it was large and fairly watertight, we soon set to* work, slung
hammocks, changed clothes, &c., &c., and after a few fine brew of
steaming hot chocolate in addition to a substantial meal, we
sought the arms of Morpheus. We were disturbed at intervals
by the barking of the dogs, and the demoniacal howling of the
‘‘baboons” or monkeys* in the adjacent woods. These gentlemen
were very plentiful, but it was certainly my wish that before I
had made their acquaintance, they had been sufficiently evolution-
IZED to devote the night to sleep, instead of maintaining their
interminable orgies. The rain continued to pour in torrents all
through the night, but at daylight next morning the sky v/as
clear, and we again pursued our journey.

The river was now in high flood, which made it laborious
work for the men at the oars, but steady progress was made, how-
ever, and the hours glided rapidly by, taken up as they were by
observations on the many new and exciting objects which moment-
ly came into view. Several species of parrots were flying in large
flocks in different directions, a noticeable feature in their flight
being, that they were always in pairs flying side by side at a dis-
tance of one or two feet apart from each other. Macaws were
not common, though several were seen, but the yellow billed
“ Toucan” (Bhamphastus, Sp.) and a large black bird with yel-
low tail feathers, were very numerous. In passing a large level
piece of ground on which the “Baawa,” was very plentiful, we
found that on the seeds of this tree there was a large number of
birds feeding. These by their loud cries, were soon made out to
be what was there known as the “ Turkey Qualm.” From notes
and sketches taken afterwards, I believe this to be a species of
Penelope, probably Penelope grist ata. It much resembles
the curassow, Clox globicera, and like that bird has a fine crest
which it raises or depresses at pleasure. At a distance they were
similar in appearance to a turkey and almost as large. Being
described to us as excellent for food a stoppage was made for the
purpose of attempting to secure a specimen or two. The river
side, however, was very difficult, being covered for some yards by
a floating growth of grass, Panicum mvurus, Lam., and on the
banks with a strong growth of the wild cane, Arundo gcciden-
talis, Sieb., the necessary chopping to get through which,
resulted in the sudden departure of our feathered friends. Another

n A Possibly be identified with Myeetes Beelzebiw^ or the preacher monkey —
of Brazil and. Guiana.

OKj A TKIP TO THE MAI^’EAKD.

21

bird also described to us as being equally good for the table was
of similar appearance to the last but much smaller. It is called
the ^^Coco qualm Both these birds are, I think, mentioned by
Belt in The Naturalist in Nicaragua” as abounding in the dis-
tricts which were the scene of the labours of that able and en-
thusiastic naturalist. Numerous other birds were seen, of all sizes
and colours, in fact, to the sportsman or naturalist as well as to
the Botanist there was plenty of material to occupy their undi-
vided attention.

We had by this time approached the ^‘The Bapids” which
consisted of deep whirling eddies or pools interspersed with rocky
and shingly shallow banks over which but little water was run-
ning. The deepest part of the shallows was always chosen for
the passage, and the canoe bad to be hauled over by ropes
provided for the purpose. No sooner were we out of one difficulty
than we were into another, the principal danger lying in sunken
trees, which in the thick muddy water, caused by the previous
day’s downpour, were hard to detect. After passing the first of
these, we again came into deep water, with rapids of various
strength at intervals of one or two miles apart, but they were all
passed successfully and we reached Jessy Town about noon. It
was situated at a junction of two rivers, down which a number of
Indians had come to meet us. These people were universally
short in stature but very athletic and robust and appeared to us
to be inoffensive, peaceable and docile, but it is possible we saw
their best side only. Both men and women were painted on the
cheeks in different patterns in which squares and diamonds pre-
dominated, done in red and black paint. On enquiry I found
that they manufactured the black themselves from a fragrant kind
of gum (extracted from one of the native trees) called ‘^Bontapee
which appeared to resemble the Gtum Elemi of commerce.
The special tree afiording this latter product is a matter of
considerable doubt. Griesbach describes it as the produce of a
Dominican tree named Daciiyodes hexandra, Gr., while other
authors give it, as being obtained from Amyris balsamifera, L.,
and allied species. Of the genus Dacryodes, Benth and Hook, in
Gen. Plant, say, ‘^Genus imperfecte cognitum” ; so that it would
appear to be evident that at present little is known as to the tree or
its product. If the gum should prove to be produced by
Jamaican trees, it will add another to the list of minor products
which are in process of development, and if opportunity aiises
for inquiry into the subject, in the interest of cultivators gener-
ally it will not be lost sight of. There are three species of
Amyris indigenous to Jamaica, while a fourth, native of Cuba
and Trinidad, belongs also to the locality of which we write.
The gum readily ignites and burns freely, producing quan-

22 A BAMJ1LE IN CTINTIIAL AMEjU(lA j

titles of black smoke which deposit a very pure kind of lamp
black, which is the substance used. Bed ochre is purchased at the
stores, by the Indians when they come down to the settlements to
barter or trade for clothing and other necessaries, and forms the
contrasting colour with which the face is ornamented. The
colours are mixed with fat, and we were informed on the spot that
the article most preferred was obtained from cockroaches. That
abundance of these pests existed everywhere, and of a very large
size we were well satisfied, but the statement as to the use of' their
fat, was taken — cum grano salis.

The mission house was a large building constructed solely by
the Indians for use of the mission parties who.visit them regularly
once a month, and was built solely from the products of the
various palms so abundant in the neighbourhood. We took up our
quarters therein and found it airy and comfortable. The Indian
usually sleeps upon the ground, his bed being made of the leaves
of a plant known as the “pimento palm,’’ Acaxthouiza/aculeata.
The leaves of this are fan-shaped and when tied two together in
opposite positions they form an efficient shelter from the rain
when walking, for which purpose they are used by the Indians, as
well as for beds and thatching purposes.

Again the inevitable dog was present, and I witnessed a
curious instance of the affection of these people for the canine
race. They use, for carrying their children, goods and effects,
strong nets made of the fibre from leaves of Bromelia pita,
or silk grass — and on examining one of these bags hanging up
near the kitchen I found, to my surprise, a litter of young pups
about three or four days old, which had, I learnt, been brought
by one of the boys a distance of several miles.

Chapter Y.

Palms and Wild Plantains (Beliconiads)— Maize— Preparation of Maize called
Boii-y on— Curiosity of Indians at Photographic operations— Selaginellas—
Contretemps in the Kivei — Castilloa elastica— Superstitions and vrohaUe ex-
planation — Penelope, description of— weight of— Flavour of. ^

Around the IVXission House on all sides were growing large
quantities of several species of dwarf palms, mos1;ly belonging
to the genera Chamedorea and Geonoma. Among the latter,
was a very beautiful species with a thick plumose head. This
was in fruit, and well matured seeds were duly secured for the
Jamaica Gardens. There were also large quantities of several
different Heliconiads and other Genera of the Order Scitamince.
One of these locally known as “ Waaha,” struck our attention by
the presence of. a silvery glaucous tint on the underside of its
leaves, which when swaying with the wind gave the plant a most
peculiar appearance. It is nearly allied to a Jamaica plant

fell’

Heliconia Bihai, L. (the wild Plantain) but it is probably a
different species. Its leaves are used for thatching temporary
dwellings, and for tying up the food of the Indians. Maize is
grown as one of the principal food supplies. It is very
prolific and ripens at several periods of the year. It is now and
has been apparently from the most ancient times, the principal
food of the inhabitants of Central America. On the coast of Peru,
Darwin found heads of it^ along with eighteen recent species
of Marine shells, in a raised beach eighty-five feet above the level
of the sea ; and in the same country it has been found in tombs
apparently more ancient than the times of the Incas.f ^*In
Mexico it was known from the earliest time of which we have any
record in the picture writings of the Toltecs, and that ancient
people carried it with them in all their wanderings. In Central
America the stone grinders with which they bruised it down are
almost invariably found in the ancient graves, having been buried
with the ashes of the dead as an indispensable article of outfit for
another world.” X We did not disturb any places of sepulchre, but
had the good fortune to find in situ, a similar stone to those spoken
of in the above quotation in a clump of bush during the earlier part
of our journey. The method of bruising the maize spoken of
by Belt, and quoted by Mr. Morris in his work on British Tlon-
duras, did not come under our observation, but I saw some pre-
pared food which had been made in an entirely different manner,
and on enquiry among the Indians themselves by aid of an inter-
preter, I learnt that this method of preparation was in general
use among the Indians of the district. The method appeared to
be, to simply bruise the maize — without any previous boiling to
remove the skin of the grain as described by Belt — and then to tie
it up tightly in the leaves of the Waaha” and boil it until it
becomes a solid and somewhat glutinous mass, which is then car-
ried with them on their journeys, and is eaten cold, or warmed up
by another slight boiling. It is therefore probable, that the Mex-
ican method of preparing the grain into cakes called tortillas,
though stated by Belt to be common to Central America, did
notin reality extend so far South as the Province of Yeragua; or
that a more careless method of preparation has been adopted
since the time he wrote, (1874.) The preparation is called ‘^Bou-
you” in Spanish and Saa” in the Indian vernacular. I saw
some of it in the hands of the Indians, but to me it did not look
particularly inviting, as the outer skin of the grain rendered it to
all appearance somewhat chaffy. During the afternoon I had an

* “Geological Observations in South America, 1846,” p. 49, and “Animals and
Plants under Domestication,” vol. 1, p. 320.

t Von Tschudi, “Travels in Peru,” English Ed., p. 177.
t “ The Naturalist in Nicaragua,” p, 65.

A BOTANIST*iJ lUMBLE IN CENTliAL AMEiUCA ;

opportunity of taking a photographic group of these people; but I
was sorry to find afterwards that the damp had so affected my dry
plates as to render them entirely useless. The process of
changing the plates at night which has to be done with the
aid of a red lantern, excited considerable curiosity, and it
probably left among them an impression which I would rather
have avoided giving rise to, but we did our best to combat
this through the medium of our interpreters. The remaining
part of the day was spent in rambles in the woods in search
of specimens, and I gathered sufficient material to keep me
fully employed in securing it, for a great part of the evening. Of
the work done by my friend in another direction, it is not my
province to speak, but I may venture to say that his own
special work was entered into with indefatigable zeal and energy,
and let us hope, was productive of great good. Not only was he
truly zealous in his own work, but his untiring efiorts in the''
endeavour to assist my labours, were of the greatest service and
conduced in a great degree to the success of my mission. He
aided me to the utmost and many specimens were secured which
would otherwise have been passed by, had they not been detected
by the vigilant eyes of my companion. Among the specimens
here obtained were several species of Graminea?, and Cyperace^,
with some splendid large Selaginellas. Going to bathe in the^^
river alone one evening, I entered the stream near the mission
house at a shallow place, and was luxuriating in the delicious
coolness of the water, when I suddenly found myself off my feet,
and in a second was taken with a surprising swiftness into the
middle of a deep whirling eddy; fortunately, I was able to swim,
but still it required all my strength to make" the shore, which I at
length reached in safety after having suffered considerable alarm,
from the fact, that such places are the favourite resort of the
Alligator, which is common to the river. The bank on which I
landed was covered with the Selaginellas, and I found two
species, that had it not been for my little contretemps, would
probably have been overlooked.

On the banks of the river and in the adjoining forests were
seen several trees of Oastilloa elastica, from which is produced
the Central American rubber, but they were all young and in
consequence, were not bearing seeds. All the larger trees
have been destroyed by the rubber gatherers, and it is only in
localities several days’ journey inland that any trees exist of
sufficient size to produce rubber in any large quantity. The
localities are kept secret by the Spanish and Indian section of the
community, so as to prevent encroachment upon what they deem to ■
be their exclusive right to cut and manufacture the article. These
people bring down in canoes during the season, large quan-

on, A TRI? TO THE MAINLAKO.

25

tities of manufactured rubber, whicb is bartered for clothing and
provisions at the coast settlements. There are two classes of
rubber, the flat or cake manufactured rubber, and the scrap rubber,
which I was informed is collected when congealed in the incisions
made for bleeding the trees at the commencement of the season.

On passing a large branch of the Wari-Biarri on the way
up, I made enquiry as to wmere it led, and was informed that it
had never been successfully explored by any one. On making
further enquiries I found that extraordinary stories of the
demoniacal things to be seen and met with on this branch were
told, and believed in, but on sifting the matter further, I was led
to conclude that such things were the mere invention, of Indians
and Spanish-speaking rubber hunters, who by this means pro-
tected a fine ground for the pursuit of their avocation, and I
certainly should, had time at my disposal allowed, have made a
careful search up this branch of the river. ^

When the locality in which- these trees thrive is compared
with the climate and soil of Jamaica, it would appear to be doubt-
ful, if this rubber-producing tree could ever be successfully cul-
tivated on a commercial scale in this Island except in the moist
and humid situations, but nevertheless, it should be given, and is
well worthy of an exhaustive trial, as the vagaries of plants are of
such an arbitrary character, and it is often by this means alone
that their capabilities can be discovered.

The night was spent in the Mission House, and we found the
climate, though somewhat enervating in consequence of the
excessive evaporation, caused by the sun beaming upon the earth
so well-saturated by the rain of the previous day “not too bad.
The “ Baboons” again enlivened the woods with their horrible
howling ; but exhausted nature gained the battle, and therefore
the noise had no serious effect in preventing our slumbers. In
the early morning the Indians were moving and the woods again
resounded wdth the cry of its day-feeding inhabitants , among
these, the quick ear of the Indian detected the cry of the Pene-
lope, and being myself but partially dressed, one of our boat s
crew borrowed my gun and with the Indians proceeded to seek
out file locality from which the cries had proceeded. ^ soon

returned, bringing with them a male and female bird of this
splendid species. Before they were dressed, I took sketches or
the head and clutches, &c., and notes on the plumage, which has
led to its approximate determination, as the “ Penelope or (Tuan
(Penelope cristata)— This bird resembles both in appearance and
manners the Curassows, and seems like them, to be capable, wn
proper care and attention, of being added to the stock of donies-
ticated poultry. They are about 30 inches in length, the tail

2ij A. botanist’s B amble in central AMERICA :

being about 13. Upper parts dusky, black or bronze, glossed
about with green and olive ; fore part of neck and breast spotted
with white ; belly and legs, lower part of the back and under
tail coverts reddish ; cheeks naked and of a purple violet
our; bill dusky; on the head a thick rufhed crest w^hich
the bird can raise or depress at pleasure. Naked part of the
throat scarlet with an extensive fold of depending skin.
Their noise is extremely loud, and when any number are
collected at the same spot they make the Woods resound with
their clamorous cries. The bird when dressed had all the
appearance 6f a fine young turkey and probably weighed from 5
to 6 lbs. or more. The male we had boiled for dinner, and we
likened its flavour to something between turkey and pheasant.
The female bird was somewhat smaller than this. Remembering
the old adage that, turkey braized was turkey praised,” we had
it dressed in that manner and put by as a reserve for the home-
ward journey.

Chapter YI.

Passijlora vltifolia, II. B. K. — Banana Plantations — Cultimtion of the Banana
and mode of Shi 2 )pin{j — Rice — Canes — Soopa — Vanilla — Fodder grasses — ■
^’-QuangcV — Mainland Cocoamit inferior in flavour to Island growth — ' Reinarhs
on healthiness of the District — Snahes and Snahc cure, c^‘c. — 2he return Voyage
— Use of the Mangrove — Bumping the Bottom — Arr ival at Quarters.

We left the Mission on the Friday morning and proceeded
to make our way down the river. All the rapids were passed
successfully, but not without considerable trouble, as the river
which, on our wmy up, was swollen with the tropical rains of sev-
eral previous days, had now subsided to its ordinary level.
Specimens of a splendid scarlet Passifiora, Passiplora vitifolia,
H. B. ET K., were seen and collected at a bend of the river
where it overhung one of the eddying pools so frequently met
with. It is known to the natives as the Caboona,” but as this
name is applied indiscriminately to several species, it could not
alone be recognised by that appellation, I found several species
of this class of plants in difierent localities, one among them
being of special interest as it produced fine large edible fruit,
similar in appearance to that of Passiflora lafrifolta, L., the
Pome POr of the French West India Islands, but over twice the
size. This together with one very much smaller wms also known
as the Caboona.”

On reaching that portion of our route where the surrounding
district consisted of flat alluvial well raised above the river bed
we noted several extensive Banana plantations. These wm were

Treasury of Natural History.

OH, A 'iUiii? AO A.UH UAl^'iiAWfh. §7

informed were owned by American and G-erman gentlemen con^
nected with the New York fruit trade. We again landed at that
belonging to Mr. I^ilej^^ an American gentleman, who has been a
resident for some years. Here the banana was perfectly at home,
and I was informed on reliable authority that from the time of
planting to the production of fruit, only some nine or ten months
were required, and the plants from their thriving and luxuriant
appearance would assist to bear out this statement. They were
planted in straight rows some ten to twelve feet apart, and were
producing enormous bunches of splendid fruit at the time of our
visit. So productive are these plantations becoming on this and
other rivers in the locality that large steamers begin to come in
regularly to load for the American market, and when it is consi-
dered that the depth of water in the Lagoon is sufficient to allow
them to come within a distance of an hour, or a hour and a half’s
journey by canoe, from the ship to the plantation, it will easily
be seen what a profitable business it is likely to become in the
very near future. As the plantations are situated immediately on
the river banks the labour of shipping the cargo is reduced to a
minimum, and hands from the various settlements find it a pro-
fitable occupation to go down with the steamers to the anchorage
at the river’s mouth, to assist in the loading. The transit of the-
fruit from the plantations to the steamers is all performed by
large cedar canoes, similar to the one in which we travelled, or in
large- ones, dug out from the enormous cotton trees.

Itice was growing wild on the river banks and appeared to be
of good quality.

Several large cane fields were also seen and canes 15 to 20
feet high were common objects.

We landed about noon at Mr. Ptiley’s dwelling house, and
durino- the preparation of some refreshment we were invited to
take a walk along the adjacent property situated on the shores of
the Lao'oon. Here again we found the Soopa” was highly es-
teemed and numerous specimens were under cultivation. Yanilla
was also a common plant, as well here, as in the majority of places
visited, and though but little fruit was seen, the vines bore traces
of the recent abundant crops. It is cured by simply drying it in
the sun, the pods being gathered when ''full,” and^ before they
commence to turn yellow. We brought some home with us,
which in aroma, was far preferable to that usually purchased.
The pods were not so long as those of the ordinary commercial
kind, so that it is probably a different species to that producing
the commercial article.

Several ferns wore noticed, and the herbage on the beach

28

A BOTANlST^b llAMJiLE IN CKNTllAL AMElllCA I

consisted principally of the salt-loving sedges, interspersed with
Eleusine, and Stenotaphrum, both good pasture grasses.

N’ear the house was a large leguminous tree which was here
known as the Graunga” or ‘‘ Gauga'-’ but though it bore consi-
derable resemblance to the tree known under the former name in
Jamaica, it was not the sanje. It is a tall, umbrageous tree,, with
bijugate leaves, and brown, hairy pods, somewhat falcate in out-
line, and 6-8 in length. These when opened are found to contain
a sweet mucilaginous pulp enveloping the seeds, which, when
freed from their covering were of a chocolate colour. The pulp
much resembles that covering the seeds of Theobroraa, and has a
pleasant sub-acid taste.

There were also plenty of cocoanut trees, which found a con-
genial home in the sandy soil of the beach, hut on tasting their
produce as “ water cocoaiiuts” we found that they were much in-
ferior in flavour to those grown on the Islands in the Lagoon, but
their ripe nuts are equal in size and quality, to those grown in
other places.

The land near the house consisted principally of swampy al-
luvial, and, probably in consequence of the recent rains, exhaled
an odour anything but pleasant. On putting a question to Mr.
Eiley as to the healthiness of the locality, we were informed that
during a residence of .sixteen years he had suffered about two
hours’ illness only.

The people generally have a great dread of poisonous snakes
which led us to make enquiries of our. host as to the authenticity
of the numerous cases of snake-bite which we had had related to
us. He informed us that he always went into the forest without
fear of danger, but was careful to provide himself with heavy top
boots as a precautionary measure. He says that few persons
die from this cause and further enquiries confirmed his statement.

That deadly snakes are present on the Mainland, there can
be no doubt, and it is a singular fact that though they exist also
on some of the Islands in the Lagoon, other Islands not half a
mile distant, are happily free from these venomous reptiles. The
most dreaded snake is one known as the Tommy Goff.” The
treatment resorted to by Europeans is with Iodine and Ammonia
but with th*e other inhabitants many kinds of bush are used.
Among the most commonly reputed cures for snake-bite is a
trailing vine known as the L^ngua-Yipara” which from a small
leaf specimen I had brought me, I believe to be, a species of
Artstolochia, another is ‘^Guaco” the leaves of Mikania Guaco,
one of the Gomposit.e. Our informant told us that the Indian is
much more sensible to terror, than the creole, and his opinion was,

OH, A TklV ’x'O ‘i'HK MAINLAHD.

29

that many more persons die from this cause, or the effects of the
nostrums resorted to, than from the pernicious effect of the bite
itself. After a stay of some two hours we bid adieu to Mr. Eiley
with many thanks for his kindness and courtesy, and embarked
for our homeward voyage. The wind was light, and consequently
the bar at the river mouth was comparatively easy to cross.
When we were safely over (the wind being unfavorable) our
‘‘ Captain” decided to make the mainland,* to the southward of
^‘Baboon Cay” and to reach the point aimed at, we had to traverse
a stretch of water 25 miles in length. With an unfavourable
wind this was no mean task, but we had every confidence in the
capacity of our Captain” and his crew to take us safe to our
destination. The canoe headed therefore in the direction indica-
ted, but being close hauled” she did not make such headway as
we should have wished, which resulted in landing us in a shady
cove, on a firm sandy beach, near a turtle-fisher’s hut which had
been built near the margin of the forest. The boatmen were well
acquainted with the navigation of the Lagoon and it was decided
to await a change of the wind, which they from experience
knew would arise from the land, sometime after nightfall. It
had taken us from 2.30 to 6.30 p.m. to cross the stretch . of
water before alluded to, and consequently our commissariat ar-
rangement was for the moment our chief concern, we therefore
proceeded to satisfy the -wants of the body and here, the Penelope,
the bird formerly alluded to, came into requisition and we were
served with it cold. It was simply delicious, very tender, and
more like pheasant than the male bird we had formerly disposed
of. It was washed down with a bottle of Gringer Ale, and feeling
very happy in the bright moonlight we seated ourselves on a fallen
log, and fell into a discussion on the doctrine of Evolution and
other polemical subjects which helped to while away the hours.
Suddenly before we felt the wind, we had a call from the boat
which had anchored some distance out, to make preparations
for embarking, and ere we had time to do this, we found that a
splendid breeze had sprung up, but being too low down on a lee
shore we had to row up to the point before we could again make
sail. Once at the point, our progress was rapid, and our ^urse
lay for a passage between Pope Island and the Mainland. There
was' a very rough sea on, but the night was clear and cool, and
we proceeded merrily along. As we reached the passage t e
wind fell off and the oars had once more to be brought into requi-
sition. Through the passage, the Lagoon is studded with numer-
ous small Cays, consisting of mere coral rock covered with man-
grove trees. The mention of mangrove trees, here reminds me
that I have somewhere seen it mentioned, that these plants appeared
to be of little economic value, It was my fortune, however, to notice

30

A iiAHiiUs +N u5iNl'ltAij AMBiiiC-'A j

a use to which they were put by a creole settler, which to say the
least, was very suggestive of the benefit they can be made to pro-
duce,^ by a proper application of their powers of existence.

On an Island in the Lagoon, on the side affected by the most
prevalent winds, a settler had a number of cocoanut trees ; he
found that they were planted too near the water and that in con-
sequence they Avere becoming undermined, and washed away by
the surf. This Avas at- a point opposite to two small Islands or
‘‘Cays” covered Avith mangro.ve and situated about a stone’s throw
from the land. He appeared to haAm conceived the idea that if
he could plant a line of mangrove in the shallow Avater so as to
connect the two “ Cays” he would prevent the Avash affecting his
cocoanuts. He had therefore planted several rows of the tree in
calm Aveather, in the shalloAV Avmter and when 'Ave saw them, they
were thriving vigorously and promised soon to present an effectual
barrier to the wash of the sea Avaves.

To return to our homeAvard journey, Ave again found the Avind
amono* the Cays, but very A^ariable. There appeared to be no
select passage among these obstacles, and the boat Avas put at each,
opening that presented itself as the wind served. One of the
creAV stood up in the boAVS and kept a sharp look out for shallow
waters, nevertheless, Ave several times bumped heavily in making
the passage between these obstructions. We could hear the grind-
ing of the coral beneath the boat as she touched the b attorn, but
beyond somewhat alarming us, it did no further injury. After sev-
eral hours of this kind of progress I became so hardened to these
occurrences that I sank into sleep, and Avas only awakened as day
Avas breaking, by the stoppage of the boat at “ Palmer’s” boat
building establishment at the southern end of Providence Island.
Here we landed for a short time, but although invited, did not
stay to take “early coffee.” We therefore proceeded to make
our Avay up the Lagoon, but hero the wind again was dead ahead,
and Ave had to beat up against it. We reached our quarters, how-
ever, at about 9 a.m., after spending some 26 hours in an open
canoe on, not tire safest of Avaters.

Chapter YII.

Visit to Nancy's Cay— ^ Pali, e-unclcr-ljoi/' — Samla Gvm, yrobablc source of—
Alsopliila bleeJinoides—'Bocpus MoutlV — Naseberries ( Acliras sa})ota)—Shar'k
Stories— Indian figures— ' By Q-stones'' — Fear of Snalies—Worh of Land Crabs
— Crossing the BnlVs Mouth at Night — "'‘BocatorcC' — Independence Bay — Fire
arms — Cricket— Value of Local Currency.

•The folloAving day or tAvo was devoted to the drying of the
specimens already procured, but having fairly recovered from the
fatigue of our late journey, we Avere invited early one morning to
“ take a walk.” This must not be understood literally, for “ taking

on, A TRIP TO 'i;ilE !SrAINLAK3:).

Bl

a walk” consists in taking a paddle in a canoe, probably for some
miles. We accepted the invitatiori, however, and we found that
our guides intended to show us the provision grounds, &c., situated
on ••Nancy’s Cay,” named in the chart Solarte Cay.” Here
almost as soon as we landed we came upon thickets of Bactris
horrida, the Poke-and'dough boy” or Poke-under-boy,” of
the colonists.. This name appears to extend for some consider-
able distance in Central America, but its origin is involved in no
little doubt. From the use to which the plant is put, in the
district we traversed, it would appear to be pretty certain — that
to that use — it owes its derivation. The stems of the palm are
strong, hard, and some 12 to 15 feet in length, and about one
inch, to one and a half inches in diameter, and are the favourite
rods used for propelling canoes wdien in shallow water, hence —
“poke-under-boy” — the rods being used in a similar manner to
the punt pole of- English rivers.

Specimens of these rods w^ere kindly forwarded for me by
D. Morris, Esq., late Director of the Department of Public Gar-
dens and Plantations, to W. Thistleton Dyer, Esq,, C.M.G., now^
Director of Kew Gardens, This gentleman was kind enough to
place them in the hands of English manufacturers, who have
most favourably reported on them, for use in the walking stick
and umbrella trades, and further enquiry is now being made at
the various sources from whence the supply can be obtained as to
the supply available, and the cost of production.

Here we met with another Geonoma, a small but handsome
palm, very similar to those we saw on the Wari-Biarra.

We also procured seeds of the “ Samba Gum” tree. These
were about the size of small nutmegs, and like them, were cov-
ered with a reddish arillus, or fleshy covering, much resembling
the mace of commerce. The “Samba Gum” when first. produced
from the tree, is a yellowish creamy-looking liquid, which after
a time becomes hard and somewhat resinous, and wPen in that
condition resembles the “Hog Gum” of Jamaica, the produce of
Symphonia globulieera, L., Fil, if indeed, it is not the produce
of the same tree, for it has not ^mt been our fortune to obtain seeds
and Botanical specimens of the Jamaica plant. And fiowers^ and
fruit were not obtainable where the gum and seeds were obtained.

There were several tree ferns, and Selagiiiellas, but the most
curious, was the singular climbing Alsoi^iiila blechnoides, this
was present in large quantities. In the single frond, it very
much resembles Oleanra nodosa, Prl. of the Jamaica fern
flora, but the distinction is, however, very apparent, upon closer
examination. We also gathered Eyania speciosa V. belonging

32 ' A ROTA??IST’s KAMBLIS IN CENTRAL AMERICA |

to a genus closely allied to the Passiflore.^, . and a curious
Anonaceus plant, probably a Xylopia which exhales a perfume
very similar to the allied Oanaga odorata, which gives the name
to the celebrated ^^Canaga Water’' sold by perfumers. Here
was a- so found the new. Tree Fern named by Mr. Baker,
Hemitelia Hartii, Bak.

A day or two afterwards we bent our way, by canoe of course,
to the settlement of ^^Boques Mouth,” formerly mentioned as the
local name of what is known to navigators as Bocas-del-Drago, or
Mouth of the Dragon. This settlement consisted of a few houses
onl}q but its thriving condition will be indicated when it is men-
tioned that at the time of our visit a Chapel was in course of
erection capable of seating over 200 people, and that, without any
extraneous help. The building placed on piles near the shore
was. being very neatly built with American pitch pine, and the
workmanship would compare very favourably with similar erec-
tions in Jamaica, in fact, I found a Jamaica carpenter engaged in
the work. The weather here again proved very unfavourable for
Botanical work, but we managed to get out a little at times, and
added some novelties to the collections. We noticed on the sea
beach an enormous tree of Achras sapota, the Sapadilla” or
^^Zapatilla” locally, but the ^^Naseberry” of Jamaica, which was
laden with fruit of very large size. Sea Grapes and Mangroves
abounded in the more swampy districts immediately on tlie beach,
but the inner lands were dry, and were producing vegetation of
the general tropical character before described. During our stay
here we heard some wondrous shark stories. They were such as I
had never before heard, or even read of, and it so excited our
curiosity, that we afterwards endeavoured to test what amount of
truth they contained by introducing the subject apparently in an
inadvertent manner, in the several districts we afterwards visited.
But there was no apparent contradiction in any of the several
stories h^ard ; they all agreed in the most important particulars,
and were lastly confirmed by the Captain of a trading schooner
who could not possibly know what we bad previously been told,
and therefore, if I give his description it will suffice for all. He
told us, that when sailing his schooner on the Bluefields Coast, that
on a calm clear day in a smooth sea, he was seated in the after-
part of his vessel, when he saw over the side, what at first appeared
to be a siioal ; in consequence he started up for the purpose of
altering his course, when the object was discovered to be an enor-
mous shark. The schooner was over 40 feet in length and he
declaied topis, that the shark w^s of equal dimensions. It came
alongside, rubbing itself against the side of the schooner for
several minutes. He said to us, that it struck him that he could
XI 1 it with a magazine rifle he had on board, but on second

‘ on, A TRTn TO THE MATNLAN O.

thoughts, he decided not to trouble the gentleman, as it might in-
jure his schooner. In a short time afterwards it graduailj dis-
^ appeared as quietly as it had come, and to his great joy, was seen
1 no more. We expressed some surprise at the enormous dimen-
sions of the brute, which resulted in his calling aft the mate of the
schooner, when he asked him the following leading question :
^^G-eorge, what size was that shark’s jaw you saw cut up at Blue-
fields ?” Well, sir,” says he, ^'it w^as a big ’im, and I seed ’em
' put it over four men standing upright without touching ’em.”
From this and the other stories, it would appear to be almost
certain that sharks of a large size abound on the coast, and are at
times rather troublesome neighbours. The season of the year
: they are most frequent is at the time that the Hawk’s-bill turtle

abound. The flesh of this reptile is not used for food by the
turtle^fishers, and their carcasses are, when stripped of the shell,
thrown into the sea, and it is this carrion that probably attrac
h the sharks at one particular season.

Seeing a small figure in one of the houses we visited which
was shaped like a toad, we asked where it had been obtained, and

■ were told that it had been found in the woods adjoining the set-
tlement. It was made of baked clay and though very rudely
made fairly resembled a toad in its various proportions. We also
heard that articles of earthenware of this class were frequently

I found and sometimes articles of gold also. But none of the latter
I were produced.

Among the people here in constant requisition wns ’what are
called Eye-stones.'” They appear to be the operculum of some
small mollusc, and are used for removing specks of dirt or other
objects from the eye. They are nearly flat on . one side with a
slightly spiral line decreasing to the centre, and on the other
boldly convex. They va>’y in size from to of an inch in dia-
meter. They are placed beneath the eyelid, and worked backwards
and forwards until the object is removed, which I proved by ex-
periment could be done without pain or inconvenience.

Leaving Boques Mouth, we came down the Lagoon to the
haul over” near Bocas-del-Tora on Columbus Island, here

■ we left our boatmen, and made our way on foot to the homestead
of Pedro Lopez, Esq., one of the principal residents, to pay him
a visit. We were very courteously received, and after an inspec-

I tion of his cane mills, and a drink of cane juice, we went up to
I the house, and were introduced to tho ladies of thefamil}^ After
yt some refreshment we proceeded on a visit of inspection to the
Cane and Banana fields, and afterwards for a stroll through the
bush. Columbus Island being noted for its poisonous snakes we
asked our host whether there was any danger of coming across

A nOTANTST’.^ RAMBLK IN CENTRAL AMERICA j

anv of these reptiles. Not much,” said he, I have no fear ”
but at the same time, we noticed that he took good care, that one
of his Indians walked in front of him with a long Cuban cutlass”
(here called Collin’s cutlass, from the maker’s name) making at
the same time a great noise by hitting the bushes as Ave walked
along.

We collected many specimens in the woods, the most inter-
esting being a Pteris, a Trichomanes of very minute proportions,
and Si Alchornea. This latter was growing in a pasture at sea
level, and appeared to be the same species which is indigenous to
the Jamaica hills, but is never found on the plains of this Island.
This instance has a parallel, in the plants found by Mr. Morris
grooving on the sea shore in British Honduras, which in Jamaica
are only to be found in the highest mountains. The fact has not
been explained, but it is probable, that were a careful search
made into the microscopical structure of these plants it would be
found that their cells are constructed, so as to render them more
dependent upon a regular supply of moisture, than upon a higher
or loAver degree of temperature. The humid character of the at-
mosphere is nearly constant in the localities in which these plants
are found and the rainfall in the two places, is believed to be-
nearly equal, in annual average.

The Banana Plantations on this gentleman’s property were
examples of good cultivation. The ground selected for their
growth, consisted principally of a stiff yellow clay coA^ered Avith
black alluvial, intermixed with innumerable sea shells, and through
Avhich, the land crabs are exer bringing up the subsoil to the
surface, thus raising it gradually, higher and higher above sea
level.

After a short trip through the Avoods, Ave again returned to
the house and Avere entertained at dinner, the good things keep-
ing us so late, that it Avas almost dark ere Ave reached the boat
house, canoe house I suppose would be the more correct term, hoAA"-
ever Ave soon Avere afloat and two athletic Indians rapidly took us
across the bay to Bocas-del-Tora. Here Ave were furnished AAuth
a canoe by Mr. Pobinson Lopez, the brother of our late host, Avho
had accompanied us and Ave Avere soon speeding home-
AAmrds towards Old Bank.” The Bull’s Mouth is not the best
of places to pass in a dark night, and at the time Ave crossed, the
Avaves Avere running very high, and Ave sank and rose alternately
some 10 or I5 feet at a jump, but our canoe seemed a thing of life,
and our boatmen as unconcerned as if they Avere on shore. After
some tAAmnty minutes of this style of progression, Ave found our-
selves safely once more on ierra firma, but although the confi-’

Oli, A Tint TO THK MAINLAND,

3b

denc3 of tliG boatmen tended to give us considerable nerve, wo
felt much safer on s'loro than in crossing the boiling cauldron of
the Bull’s Mouth, and we were very thankful to have succeeded
in crossing without mishap.

Next day we again wont on a visit to Solar te Cay” and
discovered a very handsome dwarf palm known locally as the
‘•'Kiss-Kiss.” It has a small stem 2-3 inches in diameter and
somewhat in appearance like a sugar cane. It has pinnate leaves
finely cut at the base, and abruptly terminated at the apex. It
has a large spreading panicle, which before expanding is enclosed
in a short, smooth, boat shaped spathe. Here we found several
Adiantum’s, a Pteris and another Trichomanes, and procured
seeds of the small swallow tail palm seen on our last visit.

Next day we crossed to the town of Bocas-del-Tora, locally
“ Bocotora,” Avith the intention of paying a visit to Senor Pardou,
the “ Political Judge” or person in authority for the district.
On our arrival we found tlie town in holiday fig, on account of its
being Independence day for the State of Panama. There were
processions of various classes in which the negro appeared to be
allowed to hob-nob freely with the citizens of higher grade.
Everything appeared to be conducted Avith utmost good temper
and politeness, but the frequent pop of the revolver and ride Avas
not a reassuring feature, but we Avere assured that it Avas only
on such occasions as these, that the people were alloAved to carry
and discharge fire arms in the streets, and that in consequence
they used the opportunity for practising ball firing, &c.

The members of two Cricket Clubs Avere parading the streets
and the excitement Avas running high, as to which side^ would
come off the victor. Either side has its special colours, with the
monogramic title of its club embroidered on the cap, Avhich, in
appearance wms similar to those used in England and Jamaica
during the game of cricket.

AMe Avere politelA’ shown to the house of benor Pardou by
a bystander, and were Avell received. Although a resident as he
informed us, for some forty years, he had not become acquainted
Avith the English language, but the Senorita Pardou spoke
fluent English, and was the medium of communication between
us. We found that the gentleman Avas engaged in commercial
pursuits, as indeed was nearly everyone in this settlement, or toAvn.
It consists of one long wide winding street, covered AVith grass,
well drained on each side by trenches, which carry off the ram
water Not a vehicle of any kind was seen ; in fact, they are not
required, for the trade and communication from one part to
anothcr/is performed by the ever-present canoe. Before leaving

36 A BOTAis'lST-S iiAHBLB IN CENTRAL AMBIUCA J

we visited Clias. Fitzgerald, Esq., who is the local agent of the
Atlas Company, and from whose conversation we gathered that
the trade of the colony had received a considerable impetus, by
the increased cultivation of Bananas and Cocoanuts, and that the
town was likely to become an extensive and important depot, in
the not distant future.

A great diJSiculty in the way of trade is the varying charac-
ter of the local currency. All sorts of coins of the South and
Central American Republics are current, and the silver Peso”
or Sol” has about the same purchasing power as 3/l^d. of En-
glish, or the same value of American money.

Chapteh YIII.

Afvwan Oil Palm- Granadilla—Bromelia ]}U a— Breadfruit — Cassara — ToVaceor—
Lim es — Oranges — "'A cTi,ee'' — Green- shin ned Cocoanut — Sloth — Smooth Cayenn e
Pine — Climate of the Interior — Suitahility for Cinchona — Tea^ Coffee, —
Land 'J enure — On the start for Home — Belays — Wreck of Schooners — Ihe
Maggie B. — Colon — Bisgusting state of the Streets — Advice to those aJjout to go
there— Home in the Belize S. S. — List of Plants found — Professor Byer's
couHesy.

The remaining days of our visit were spent mostly indoors
on account of the very inclement weather which prevailed at the
time, but even during this time I was fully occupied in drying and
properly preserving the specimens! had already secured. Though
too unfavourable for ourselves to^seek the woods, we had the will-
ing aid of the inhabitants who brought to us every bit of dower-
ing bush” which they found in their journeys to and fro, from
their provision grounds. One of the specimens thus brought to
us was the fruit of a Passiflora, called the ‘‘ Wild Granadilla”
locally. It was a ripe fruit one inch in diameter, bright scarlet
in colour, having a very thin papery pericarp with light coloured
transverse and longitudinal markings. It contained a very pleas-
ant, sweet pulp, and being fully ripe, seeds were duly secured
and I am glad to say safely transported to this Island, where they
are now growing freely. It is a pretty species, and was found
on a small Island called “ Careening Cay” forming the tongue of
the Bull’s Mouth. Another plant of interest of which seed was
brought us was Elais Guineensis, or the African Oil Palm,
which has probably been introduced into these islands, in a simi-
lar manner as it was into Jamaica, (viz.,) brought by emigrants ?
from the Coast of Western Africa. We also had a fruit of the
true Passiflora quaaranqularis brought to us, under the name
of “ Granadilla. I had not seen the fruit of this plant for some
twenty years, but it has often occurred to me that the name
Granadilla was probably applied indiscriminately to the
two Kinds, Lc., PassifIjOra -macrocae pa and Passiflora quad-
RANG ULARis— -the former of which is known and grown in Jamaica,
as the Gianadilla. Ihc difference between the two varieties isi

Qlt, A TKli> TO THE MAINLAKi).

ar

not so mucli in the size and shape of the leaves^, which are very
similar, but in the diherent form, size and flavour of the fruit.
The fruit of P. Qijadrangularis is in size about one-third less
than that of P. Maorocarpa, more oval in shape and of a darker
green colour, and it is much superior to the ordinary fruit known
as the Grranadilla.’’ The two species are not accepted as distinct
by Grisebach and other botanists. The fruit of Bromelia pita,
was also brought to us. This is the Silk Grass’^ of the district,
and is the plant from which all the Indian hammocks, bags, &c.,
are manufactured. It has leaves sometimes over 10 feet in length,
in appearance not unlike those of the Penguin” of Jamaica, but
the fruit of the plant is much more like the pine apple, as it rises
on a stem 3 or 4 feet long from the crowm of the plant, and the
pips are aggregated together in a similar manner as in that fruit.
The bracts are much more distinct, bright scarlet and close
together, and the pips are much smaller than those of the pine
apple and not of such a succulent nature. It is very handsome,
and were it not for the somewhat unweildy proportions of the
plant producing it, would be of some interest as an ornamental
fruit.

The Breadfruit was a tree we found abundant in all the
Islands, and was tended in every place with much care, as it is
one of the favourite plants selected by the^^ We-We” ant for the
display of its depredatory powers. It nevertheless thrives well
and produces fruit in abundance. Cassava” as a rule is not so
prolific as in some of the drier districts in Jamaica, but it is gen-
erally cultivated by both Creoles and Indians. Tobacco is grown,
but is of very inferior quality. Limes are plentiful, but Oranges
are scarce, rendered so, by the constant attacks of the ^^We-
We” upon the leaves of the tree.

The Star Apple was fairly common and several trees of
Blighia Sapida, the ''Ackee,” were in cultivation near the set-
tlements.

There is- a variety of Cocoa-nut grown here that is de-
serving of special mention. It is called the green skinned,”
and though in outward appearance it is often smaller than the ordin-
ary kind, it is found tnat.when denuded of its husk, the nut is
very much superior in size. It is apparently quite as prolific,
the trees are as quick in growth, and quite as hardy as the ordin-
ary variety. The nut when ripe is about one-third larger and
much handsomer than the common one. As water cocoa-nuts
they contain a very large quantity of liquid, one we had given u»
produced sufficient to fill a soda-water tumbler 1^- times, and we
were informed was not selected for its extra size. It would be
well for those who intend cultivating the Cocoa-nut in Jamaica,

38

A B0TA2^1ST‘'s KAMJ’>LE IN CENTKAL AMEKICA ;

if they were to seek a supply of this special kind, as without any
doubt it is very much more valuable than the common variety,
and would command a much higher price in the various markets.
It is believed that plants of this klnJ producing fruit, are
now growing in Jamaica, and it is worthy of enquiry whether any
facts are known as to its suitability for the Jamaica climate.

A destructive animal in the provision grounds is the Sloth,”
which is fairly numerous. It is a disgusting looking creature,
specially adapted in form for living in the branches of trees, &c.
It is to be seen occasionally at mid-day perched upon the top of a .
bunch of Bananas or Plantains leisurely eating them without any
apparent regard to external objects, never leaving the bunch
until it is entirely consumed.

Pine Apples of the several commoner kinds are in cultivation
on the provision grounds, but just as we were leaving, we were
presented with two enormous fruits ‘’of a superior variety. I
immediately recognized this as being the tree '’Smooth Cayenne”
a variety which I have not as yet seen in Jamaica. En-
quiring into the history of its ^introduction into the Islands,
we were told that the plants were introduced from Jamaica. It
is one of the best varieties that can be grown and is highly es-
teemed even when produced under artificial cultivation in English
hot-houses. If to be found in Jamaica, it is strange it should not
have made its appearance among the numerous varieties shown at
the Kingston Horticultural Show, and that body would do well
to offer a special prize for its production, in the hope of calling
increased attention to the cultivation of another valuable variety
of this delicious fruit.

I cannot take leave of this country without mentioning the
immense tracts of land on the interior mountains which without a
doubt possess a climate somewhat similar to the Jamaica hills.
Hence it follows that there is plenty of room for the cultiva-
tion of such products as Cinchona, Coffee, Tea, &c., &c., while the
coast districts are suitable for the growth of nearly all kinds of
tropical products, &c. Cacao, is at home in the tracts near the
coast, and produces a much finer bean naturally, than can be ex-
hibited by many other countries which expend a large amount of
capital and labour in its production.

• The great drawback to the development of the country is the
insecurity of the land tenure. We heard of instances in which,
what is called a “forced loan” had been exacted from individuals
(presumeably by the Government), in cases where the person
had become obnoxious to the opposite political party. The taxes,
and imposts, &c., appear to be regulated by no fixed law, but left

ORj A TRIP TO THE iMiAXNLAND.

to arbitrary settlement of the party in power, frorn which there
appears to be but little chance of obtaining justice on appeal,
unless supported by that most substantial argument of modern
days, viz : plenty of money.

We had made arrangements to return to Jamaica by way of
Colon, but a Norther’’ having set in with considerable force it
resulted in wrecking the schooner on her way from Colon,
that was engaged to take us to that port. Other arrangements
had therefore to be made and another small schooner was engaged,
our traps put on board, and we prepared to start. Several little
unaccountable delays took place, however, and while we were thus
waiting, another ^^Norther^’ set in, when unanimously the people
declared minister” could not go in that boat, as she was
not sufficiently sea worthy to stand any rough weather.^ Our
traps in consequence were again brought ashore, and we
had to await another opportunity. During the gale, how-
ever, a schooner ran in for shelter, and anchored off Bocas-del-
Tora. She proved to be the Maggie B.” a trader between Port
Limon and the Ishtmus. The Captain to escape the gale had run
in for shelter and to fill up with provisions for sale in Colon.
We engaged a passage in her and the storm having subsided,
we set sail.

The wind which for several days previously had been almost
a hurricane now subsided, to nearly a dead calm. The current
was running, we were told, som© three miles an hour and was in
our favour, so that we progressed leisurely, with sails flapping
idly except for the few '' cats’ paws” that now and then struck
them. As we neared Colon, however, a breeze sprang up and
we ran in to the anchorage without any trouble, Here we
took our leave of the Maggie B.” She was a tight little schooner
with a low freeboard, fine lines and tall raking masts, and consi-
dered the finest sailer on the coast. Her Captain was a Norwe-
gian and was owner of the vessel, which though now a trader had
formerly rejoiced in the title of yacht. As a rule it is only ^^great
men” who are able to keep a yacht, but in the case of the ^Alaggie
B.” it was otherwise, as it was for one of the smallest men that
ever lived that this vessel was designed and built, and he no less
a personage than Gteneral Tom Thumb.

We landed in Colon in a pelting shower and had the misfortune
for the first two or three days, to meet a continuance of the same
weather I had heard much of Colon, but I never expected to see
anything so bad as the state of affairs we found existing. It was
not possible to cross the streets, without the help of the numer-
ous old packing cases, planks, &c., that were lying in every direc-

* She was lost at sea with all hands on her return trip to Colon.

40

A ramiu-e in oknthal amkktca j

lion. The streets Avere the receptac?le for every deseription of rub*
bish, and the rain had reduced them into rivers of liquid mud, into
which the drivers of drays, &o., Avere compelled to plunge, to en-
able them to pass along, as the raihvay track in the centre of the
street did not permit of their crossing only at certain points. In
many places the streets AA^ere, for often as much as a hundred yards
in length, from two or three feet deep in mud, and I frequently
saw mules in drays sunk up to their shoulders, in this abominable
filth. It rained at intervals during the nights and immediately after
a downpour, the smell arising from the disturbed surface of the
saturated ground, and the numerous mud pools, was very hard to
put up with, but nevertheless it had to be borne, as Ave had to
Avait for six days to get a ship to Jamaica.

The Royal Mail steamer Belize’^ then made her appearance,
and Ave engaged a passage in her, nothing loth to leaAm this pesti-
lential hole and return to our home in Jamaica. Punch’s advice
to those about to marry, is equally applicable to those who are
about goingto Colon, Don’t.”

A short vo^^age landed us in Kingston on a Saturday OA^ening
after an absence of six weeks. The subjoined lists giving the re-
sults of our journey in a strictly Botanical sense, the plants haAung
all been accurately determined by the Staff of the Royal Herba-
rium, KeAV, through the kindness of Professor Dyer, O.M.Gr.,
Director of the Royal Gardens, Avho is always ready to extend
his sympathy and assistance to all interested in the progress of
Botanical Science.

J. II. HART.

41

Plants collected in Chiriqui Lagoon and leiglibourhood,

BY J. EL. BLA.BT.

Ferns & Lycopods.

17 Alsophila blechnoides, Hook

46 A eloLgata,, Hook.

29 Hemitelia miiltifLoia, R.B.

43Hemitelia Hartii, Bak.
N. sp.

63 Trichomanes piinctatum,

41 T muscoides, var. an-

gustifions. Fee.

1 T elegans, Rudge.

38 T sinuosum, Rich.

T macilentunij V.D.B.

15.39 Adiantum intermedium, Sw.

26 A tetraphyllum Willd.

36 A — — obtusum, Desv.

52 Hypolepis repens, Presl.

42 Asplenium cultrifolium. L.
51 Hephrodium molle, Desv.

14 H cicutarium, Bak.

pilose variety.

62 Polypodium crasifolium, Sw

56 P crenatum Sw.

55 P tetragonum, Sw.

54 P incanum, Sw.

22 P piloselloides, L.

3 P percussum. Car.

7 Gymnogramme gracilis
Heward ?

45 Acrostichum sorbifolium; L;
var. yapurense. Mart.

53 AcrosticMin osmundaceum.

Hook.

32 Lygodium digitatum, Eaton
59 Lycopodium linifolium, L'
11 Selaginella erythropus.
Spring.

2a S fiabellata. Spring

2.33 S geniculata. Spring

61 S anceps, A Br.

22a: 37 S radiata. Baker

26a. 27 I g eurynota, A Br.

Flowering Plants.

134 Tetracerasp.

96 Herrania sp.

135 Pavonia Typhalea, Car.

161 Theobroma bicolor, H.B.K.

Flowering Plants.

132 Ryania speciosa, Yahl.

108 Erythrina, sp.

177 Desmodium near Barclay!,
Bth. '

99 Lonchocarpus sericeus,
H.B.K.

103 Lonchocarpus ?

182 Dalbergia Amerimnum,
Benth.

112 Passiflora laurifolia, L ?

140 p vitifolia H.B.K.

104 P sp.

121 Terminalia (Bucida) Buce-
ras. L.

174 Calia prunifolia, H.B.K.
176 Cosmos caudatus, H.B.K.
138 Mikania sp. “ Guaco.”

131 Genipa Americana, L. “ In-
dian Ink.”

109 Rustia occidentalis, Hemsl.

119 Psychotria, sp.

144 Sabicea, sp.

113 Gonzalia spicata D.C.

110- Terminalia “ Wine wood.”

129 Posoqueria Panamensis,

Walp.

114 Cordia ulmifolia, Juss.

120 Solanum leucocarpon. Rich?

136 Ardisia=Seeman 59.

127 A sp.

153 Chrysophyllum glabrum,
Jacq.

115 Macfadyena uncinata, D.C.
117 Citharexylum caudatum, L.

98 Rhabdadenia biflora, Jacq.

128 Prestonia, sp.

166 Ocymum basilicum, L.

175 Scoparia Dulcis, L.

167 Stemodia

105 Lippia nodiflora, Rich.,

142 Columnea, sp.

130 Aphelandra, Sinclairiana,

Nees.

186 Belophorone carthaginensis
Jacq.

106 Thevetia nitida, D.C.

168 Pisonia, sp.

137 Philoxerus vermiculatus,

R.Br.

141 Kectandra villosa, Kees.

124 Piper (Stiftensia) sp.

126 P -auritum H.B.K.

97 Croton cfr. Eluteria, Sw.

42

Plants collected m Chiriqui Lagoon, (continued.)

126 C maritimus, Walt.

140 Castilloa elastica, Cerv.

100 Pinus cfr. cubensis, Grisb .
122 Alchornea, sp.

95 Aristolochia cfr. glandulosa
179 Zamia Skinneri, Warsc,
(male)

178 Epidendrum stenopetaliim,
Hook.

172 E near nocturnum

145 E near rigidum

133 E near rigidum, (Sw.)

102 } flowers

111 Brassavola nodosa, Lindl.

173 JEchmea (Platysechmea)
Ohiriqnensis. Baker, N. ep.

101 Carludovica Plumieri,
Kunth.

116 Xiphidium floribunduni,
Sw.

Grasses & Sedges.

8<) C37periis Lazulse, Rottb.

75 C Compressus L,

7<> Dichronema piibera, Palil.

68 Fimbristylis polymorpha,
Kunth.

79 Kyllinga aphylla, Kunth.

82 K monocephfila, Rottb.

85 Scleria melaleuca, Reich,

71 Orthoclada laxa, P.B.

77 Pharus brasiliensis, Raddi

83 Oplismenus loliaceus.Spreng

74 O Burmanni, P.B.

91 Erayrostis sp.

93 Eleusine indica, Gsertn
67 1

r70 Leptochloa virgata, P.B,

183 Stenotaphrum americanum>
Schrad.

66 Chloris radiata, Sw.

69 1 .

72 Wchnanthus, pallens, P.B.
89 J

84 Panicurn near maximnm,
Jacq,

64 P sp.

37 P trichanthum, Nees.

*Most of these are now growing
when sufficiently advctmed.

78 P fuscum, Sw.

94 P barbinode, Trin.

73 1

g0 1 P tenuiculmum Meyer

02 Paspalum pusillum, Vent,
gg j- P paniculatum, L .

189 P — -setaceum, Michx.

81 P conjunatum, Berg.

Palms.*

148 Bactris Sp.

4 Geonoma Sp.

5 “ “

8 “ “

9 « “

171 “

Acanthoriza aculeata
Chameedoiea, sp.

Pla7its collected in the Island of
San Atidreas.

164 Malvastrum tricuspidatum,
A.Gr.

161 Rhynchosia minima, D 0.
160 Dtsmodium incanum, D.C.
159 Cassia Tora, L.

147 )

I Casearia ramiflora, Vahl.

157 ('?uphea epilobiifolia, Koehne
164 Hanielia patens, Jacq.

149 Alibertia edulis. Rich.

169 Tabernoemontana citrifolia,

Jacq.

151 Tournefortia gnaphalioides,

R.Br.

150 Dichondra repens, Forst,

162 Echites umbellata, L.

170 Bunchosia Swartziana,

Griseb. ?

148 Avicennia nitida, Jacq.

146 1

155 vOapraria biflora, L.

163 )

152 Brassavola grandiflora,

Lindl.

90 Digitaria marginata, Link.

m Jamaica and, will he determined later on

Garden Library

New York Botanical

QK 222 .H37 gen

Hart John Hinchley/A botanist’s ramble

3 5185 00038 0491