GIFT OF

AGRiC. DEPT.

BULBS;

A TREATISE ON

HARDY AND TENDER BULBS
AND TUBERS.

BY

EDWARD SPRAGUE RAND, JR.,

Author of " Flowers for the Parlor and Garden," " Garden Flowers," &c.

BOSTON :

J. E. TILTON AND COMPANY.
1866.

.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866, by

EDWARD SPRAGUE RAND, JR.,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts.

STEREOTYPED BY C. J. PETERS & SON,
13 Washington St., Boston.

PRESSWORK BY JOHN WILSON & SON.

To

DR. WILLIAM R. LAWRENCE,

THIS VOLUME
IS CORDIALLY INSCRIBED.

INTRODUCTION.

THE plants of which the present volume treats are
among the most beautiful in the floral kingdom. While
comparatively few are indigenous to Northern climes,
and many are natives of the torrid zone, most of
them may be grown with but a slight outlay ; and the
garden, frame, and greenhouse may be gay at every
season of the year with their gorgeous blossoms.

Many of them are also admirably suited for window-
culture, and, though generally not ornamental in foli-
age, flower freely in the parlor, and stand well the
heat of furnaces, and the poisonous gas which impreg-
nates the air wherever gas is used for lighting. Dur-
ing their period of growth, which is the season at which
they are generally in the parlor, they will bear any
quantity of water; and therefore one of the great
mistakes in parlor-culture — over-watering — cannot
be committed.

Most of those ordinarily grown in the parlor bloom

6 INTRODUCTION.

in winter, and, in summer, need only to be dried off
in a cellar or on a closet-shelf.

They are subject to few diseases, and insects seldom
attack them. All these are great recommendations ;
and when we add that the blossoms are not only very
showy, but, in many species, also delightfully fra-
grant, we have said enough to cause them to be gen-
erally cultivated.

In the garden, also, they play an important part ;
beginning to bloom with the early snowdrop, which
looks out with timid eyes upon the storms of Feb-
ruary; and ending only with the adventurous col-
chicum, which, heedless of fading leaves and frowning
skies, thrusts up its delicate blossoms of purple or
white in the short November days, as if to bid a fare-
well to the dying year.

The culture of bulbs is yet in its infancy. As a
class, these plants are every year attracting more
attention; and the time is not far distant when the
skill of the hybridist and the researches of collect-
ors will greatly increase our number of species and
varieties.

If we may take the hyacinth for an instance, where,
from a single original species, all the numberless
forms now in cultivation have been derived, oiywhat

INTRODUCTION. 7

are, perhaps, better examples, the amaryllis and
gladiolus, where a few species have produced count-
less varieties, most of which excel any of the parents
in beauty, we see how wide a field is open ; while,
at the same time, it is impossible to predict the result,
or to imagine the improvements, which the future may
witness, or the beauty which may be born under the
skilful application of systematic culture. Perhaps
the most remarkable discovery in this class of plants
within the last few years is the golden-banded lily
(Lilmm auratum), the beauty of which it would be
difficiilt to describe ; but we see no reason to doubt
that future explorations may give us equally valuable
additions, though perhaps not in the lily family. This
same lily family offers a most tempting opportunity
for hybridization, both from the facility with which
it may be performed, and the beauty of the subjects ;
and in this field we may hope for great results in the
future. .

We must also bear in mind that many of the regions
most prolific in bulbs are, as yet, imperfectly explored
by botanists, and that scientific research may lead to
great developments.

South Africa has probably many valuable discov-
eries yet to yield, and the rich fields of California and

8 INTRODUCTION.

the Pacific coast are prolific of other treasures than
golden ore.

The want of a volume on this subject has long been
felt by culturists. The elaborate work of Mrs. Lou-
don was useful in its day, though wanting in practical
directions ; but it has long been out of print, and its
cost would render it inaccessible to the masses.

The learned treatises of Herbert can never be
excelled in elaboration of detail ; but they are too
scientific for the popular mind, and only cover a small
portion of the immense field upon which instruction
is required.

It is to meet this want that the present volume has
been undertaken. Its aim is to give a book of popular
culture, botanically correct as far as the science of
botany is within its scope, but generally adapted to
popular use, and intelligible to the large class who are
ardent culturists, but have little time for the study of
botany ; to make the culture of flowers a necessity,
feeling that the inquiring mind will turn from the
growing plant to study how it grows.

This volume is the third of a series of works on
popular gardening ; of which, two, " Flowers for the
Parlor and Garden," and " Garden Flowers," are al-
ready before the public. A volume of " Orchid Culture "

INTRODUCTION. 9

is already in press; and the other volumes on " Green-
house Flowers," " Wild Flowers," and " Ferns, Lich-
ens and Mosses," are in preparation.

Tae whole, when completed, will form a library of
practical culture, which the author trusts may be the
means of advancing the cause of floriculture, and
prove a practical benefit to horticultural science.

Many of the bulbs described as tender, and for
which greenhouse treatment is directed, may prove
hardy in the Middle States, and undoubtedly would
in all States south of the latitude of Washington.
The volume is written for the latitude of Massachu-
setts, and due allowance must be made by readers
living either North or South. As we have often had
occasion to observe, the proper application of the
word " hardy " is a source of great difficulty to the
horticultural writer, as the hardiness of a plant is reg-
ulated by so many circumstances other than mere
temperature. In many cases, the fact can only be
determined by experiment, and each must be his own
judge. A volume can lay down only general rules, to
which each reader may, perchance, find his own
exceptions.

There is no prettier culture than that of bulbs. To
watch the foliage and flower gradually developing

10 INTRODUCTION.

from the bulb is pleasing and instructive, and csn-
not fail to direct the thinking mind to the Author of
all, who, in so many diverse and yet ever-beaudful
and wondrous ways, has caused the earth to bring
forth abundantly all that can minister to the wants or
the gratification of man.

GLEN RIDGE, August, 18(56.

CONTENTS.

PAGB

WHAT ARE BULBS ? . . *. . 17

GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE •.,.... 26

PREPARATION OF SOIL. — APPLICATION OF MANURE ... 35

IV.

BULB CASES. — GROWTH OF BULBS IN WARDIAN CASES. — IN WATER.
— IN VEGETABLES. — IN Moss. — IN SAND. — CROCUS-POTS . . 42

V.

DISEASES AND INSECTS. — PREMATURE FLOWERING. — TABDY
FLOWERING. — RED SPIDER. — GREEN-FLY. — MEALY BUG. —

SCALE. — MILDEW. — ROT • . 51

11

12 CONTENTS.

VI.

PAGE

THE HYACINTH. — SCILLA,— URGINEA. — MYOGALUM.— NARCISSUS . 64

VII.
THE SNOWDROP. — THE LEUCOJUM. — THE CROCUS .... 98

VIII.

THE TULIP.— THE IRIS. — THE MOREA. — THE HERBERTIA. — THE
CYPELLA. — THE PHALOCALLIS. — THE VIEUSSEUXIA . . . 109

IX.
THE RANUNCULUS AND THE ANEMONE 132

X.

THE OXALIS. — THE IXIA. — THE BABIANA. — THE SPARAXIS. — THE
TRITONIA. — THE GEISSORHIZA

XL
THE LILY •

XII.
THE FRITTELARIA. — THE FERR ARIA. — THE ALLIUM. — THE ORNI-

THOGALUM

170

CONTENTS. 13

XIII.

PAGE

THE GLADIOLUS. — THE TIGEIDIA.— THE WATSONIA. — THE SYN-
NOTIA. — THE ANOMATHECA. — THE ANTHOLYZA. — THE BIGI-
DELLA . .179

XIV.

THE AMARYLLIS.— THE HIPPEASTRUM. — THE SPREKELIA.— THE
VALLOTA. — THE LYCORIS. — THE PYROLIRION. — THE NERINE.
— THE ZEPHYRANTHES .200

XV.

THE TUBEROSE. — THE CYCLAMEN. — THE DAHLIA. — THE COMME-
LIXA. — THE SALVIA, — THE ASCLEPIAS. — THE APIOS . . .215

XVI.

THE ERYTHRONIUM. — THE BULBOCODIUM.— THE COLCHICUM.— THE
ERANTIIES. — THE TROP^EOLUM. — THE OPERANTHUS. — THE Mus-
CAKI. — THE LACHENALIA.— THE STERNBERGIA . . . .230

XVII.

THE ARUM. — THE CALOCASIA. — THE ERYTHRINA — THE CANXA.—
THE DICENTRA. — THE SANGUINARIA. — THE EICHARDIA. — THE
TRILLIUM 238

XVIII.

THE CALADIUM. — THE CRINUM. — THE CLIVEA. — THE EUCHARIS.—
THE GRIFFINIA. — THE CYRTANTHUS. — THE H.EMANTHUS. — THE
BRUNSVIGIA.— THE EUCOMIS 248

14 CONTENTS.

XIX.

PAGE

THE ACHIMENES.— THE GLOXINIA. — THE GESNERA .... 259

XX.

THE PENTLANDIA. — THE HOMERIA. — THE HEXAGLOTTIS. — THE
TRICHONEMA.— THE GALAXIA. — THE LAPEYROUSIA. — THE HES-

PERANTHA. — THE WACHENDORFIA. — THE HYPOXIS. — THE

COOPERIA. — THE HAYLOCKIA. — THE ANDROCYMBIUM. — THE
BLANDFORDIA. — THE BRA VGA. — THE CALOSCORDUM. — THE
MILLA. — THE ELISENA. — THE ISMENE. — THE PANCRATIUM.—
THE CARPODETES. — THE DAUBENYA. — THE CARPOLYSA. — THE
HABRANTHUS. — THE IXIOLIRION. — THE PHYCELLA. — THE
CHLORETIS. — THE STRUMARIA. — THE COBURGIA.— THE GASTRO-
NEMA.— THE CHLIDANTHUS. — THE URCEOLINA.— THE STENO-
MESSON. — THE FOURCROYA. — THE EUCROSIA. — THE CALOS-
TEMMA. — THE EURYCLES. — THE GLORIOSA.— THE HYDROT^ENIA.
—THE HYMENOCALLIS. — THE GETHYLLIS. — THE LIDEBOURIA. —
THE VELTHEIMIA. — THE CYANELLA. — THE RHINOPETALUM. —
THE LIBERTIA. — THE PH^EDRANASSA.— THE BRODI.EA. — THE
MASSONIA. — THE PUSCHKINIA. — THE CALIPRORA. — THE CAMAS-
si^. — THE MELANTHIUM. — THE MONTBRETTIA. — THE BESSERA.
— THE NECTAROSCORDUM.— THE CALOCHORTUS. — THE CYCLO-
BOTHRA. — THE PLANTIA. — THE LEUCOCORYNE.— THE BELLE-
VALIA. — THE ALBUCA. — THE GAGE A. — THE BARNARDIA. — THE
HESPERASCORDIUM. — THE DRIMEA. — THE ERIOSPERMUM.— THE
SPATALANTHUS. — THE CONANTHERA. — THE CUMMINGIA. — THE
UROPETALON.— THE STREPTANTHERA. — THE TRITELIA . . 267

INDEX. 293

BULBS.

I.

WHAT ARE BULBS?

OTANICALLY speaking, a bulb is an
underground stem, and, though generally
considered a root, partakes more of the na-
ture of a seed.

Strictly, there are but three kinds of
bulbs, — the coated, such as the hyacinth and
onion, where the scales are large, and, fold-
ing around each other, form the bulb ; the scaly, of which
the lily is the familiar example, which consist of narrow,
fleshy scales, united at the base ; and the solid bulbs, or
corms, such as the gladiolus and crocus, which consist of a
solid, white, farinaceous mass, and which, perhaps, may be
considered as a sort of rounded tuber.

In popular parlance, however, almost any solid, under-
ground stem is called a bulb ; and under this name are
included many true tubers, which, in reality, possess little
of the bulbous nature.

2 17

18 WHAT ARE BULBS?

A familiar example of this is the well-known tuberose
(Polianthes tuberosci), called a tuberose from its tuberous
root, and not, as commonly conceived, from being a u rose
with a tube," and a true tuber, but which is usually consid-
ered a bulb.

As we have said, the bulb partakes more of the nature
of a seed ; that is, when planted, it sends forth roots into
the earth, and an ascending shoot to the upper air, as a seed
does in vegetation ; and, as in the case of a seed, the young
plant is nourished by the starchy matter contained in the
bulb, in the same manner as by that stored in the seed.
The seed, however, having given birth to the plant, wastes
away, and is lost ; but the bulb, to all appearance, re-
mains the same. This latter is, in truth, not the case.
Each year, the old tissue of the bulb is consumed by the
plant, and replaced by new, though often in such a way
that it is imperceptible to the careless eye.

A seed also sends up a stem which produces leaves and
branches, or rather buds, which become developed as such ;
but a bulb only sends up leaves and a flower-stem. There
are, however, some bulbs which produce little bulbs, or
bulblets, in the axils of the leaves.

The primary use of the bulb is to store up nourishment

WHAT ARE BULBS? 19

for the development of the leaves and flowers. The period
required to perfect this process, or, in gardeners' language,
to make the bulb " strong enough to bloom," is widely
different in different species, 'and even varies much in the
same species, according to mode of growth and favorable
or unfavorable circumstances.

Some bulbs and tubers require years before a sufficient
stock of feculent matter is accumulated : others in a few
months gain strength enough to nourish the flower. The
mode by which this store is laid up is by no means different
from that by which all plants assimilate to their own sup-
port the elements of earth, air, and water. It is effected by
means of the roots and leaves, or foliage, and only differs
in the place of deposit.

In all bulbs, tubers, and fleshy root-stalks, this nutriment
is laid up in the earth, and the leaves mostly die annually,
or take a season of rest : and hence we see the pertinence
and force of the old gardener's adage, " Fine flowers, large
leaves ;" as, without a full development of foliage, it is use-
less to expect a perfection of bloom. Were the leaves of a
bulb to be cut off as fast as they appear, the bulb would
perish : therefore, if we would allow them their full action
for the perfection of the bulb, they should never be cut off

20 WHAT ARE BULBS?

until they begiii to turn brown and wither, which is a sure
sign the circulation of the sap has ceased ; and then they
will readily come away from the bulb.

As our present treatise is for popular gardening, we shall
include under the general name of bulbs many true tubers,
to which the general rules of bulb-culture are applicable.
All bulbs require a season of rest : this takes place after
the plant has produced its bloom, stored up the nourishment
for the growth of the coming year, and ripened its seed.
The foliage turns yellow, and falls off (except in the case of
evergreen bulbs, which preserve them green, but without
growth) ; and the bulb, save its fresh, plump appearance,
preserves no sign of vitality. This season of rest varies
greatly in time and duration ; in some being very short, in
others very long. .-In some, we can change it indefinitely ;
as gardeners say, the bulb " forces well," that is, may be
forced into bloom at any season : while others " force
badly ; " that is, can only be had in perfection at certain
seasons.

Bulbs which flower in early spring, such as crocus,
Persian iris, frittelaria, snowdrop, tulip, and hyacinth,
rest from June or July until October, when their roots
begin to grow ; but the leaves do not appear until the next

WHAT ARE BULBS? 21

spring. Lilies go to rest immediately after flowering, and
seldom grow until late in the spring, except the white lily
(L. candidum) and its varieties, which make their growth
in the autumn preparatory to blooming in early summer.
Of this same nature are the many varieties of polyanthus
narcissus, and iris Susiana, one of the most beautiful of
the family, which in New England almost always make a
fall growth, and, unless very well protected, has the young
growth killed by the winter, and the b'ulb perishes.

Some bulbs, of which the colchicum is the best example,
bloom late in the autumn, and perfect their growth of
foliage and the seed the following spring. In some, as with
the well-known Jacobean lily (Sprekelia formosissima) and
Belladonna lily (Amaryllis Belladonna), the flower-stalk
springs from the naked bulb, and the growth of leaves
follows ; while in others — as, for example, the tall white
star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum pyramid-ale) — the flower-
stalk pushes up after the foliage has decayed.

In many bulbs, as the hyacinth and narcissus, the flower-
stalk springs from the centre of the crown of leaves, on^a
separate stalk ; in others, as in some amaryllis, it is pro-
duced from the side of the bulb, and the leaves from the
top : and these two modes of growth sometimes occur in the
same family.

22 WHAT ARE BULBS?

The flower may also be upon the same stalk with the
foliage, as in the well-known crown imperial (Frittelaria
imperialis) and many other well-known bulbs. In fact,
these peculiarities are infinite : and it is to these little differ-
ences that we owe much of the pleasure we derive in the
culture of flowers. A new interest is constantly upspringing
in the mind ; and the love of Nature insensibly intwines
around the soul, until it becomes a part of our nature.

As we have seen that each bulb has its season of rest, it
would follow that all bulbs should, during that season, have
nothing to excite their dormant powers and to urge them to
growth. With most bulbs, this is afforded by taking them
out of the earth, and preserving them in a perfectly dry
place, or with many bulbs grown in pots by withholding
water, and u drying them off."

Bulbs which preserve an evergreen foliage are, of course,
never wholly " dried off;" but water is given very sparingly,
and only enough to keep the leaves from fading and the
bulbs from shrivelling.

.Care must always be taken, in drying off bulbs, not to
dry them up, as thus many small bulbs perish. The bulbs
must be kept fresh and plump, but not excited to growth.
The degree of dryness each species or variety will bear is

WHAT ARE BULBS? 23

best learned by experience ; but an attempt will be made to
give the rules for each case, under its appropriate head, in
the following pages.

Some hardy bulbs do better if taken from the ground as
soon as they have matured their growth, and wrapped in
dry paper, and thus kept until the season for replanting :
this, indeed, is the general practice abroad with " Holland
bulbs." Others, again, do far better if left in the ground
undisturbed for years. Bulbs grown in water (if desirable
to preserve them) should be planted in soil as soon as the
bloom fades ; as, otherwise, the store of nourishment is
exhausted, no new nutriment is laid up, and the bulb
consequently perishes, or does not bloom again for years.
We have said that the old bulb is consumed each year, and
a new bulb formed. This is done in many ways. Some-
times it is formed in the centre of the bulb, as in the
hyacinth ; sometimes it appears on the side, as in the tulip ;
sometimes on top, as in the crocus and gladiolus ; and
sometimes on the bottom, as in the bulbous iris.

Thus the crocus grows out of the ground each year, the iris
buries itself, and the tulips move away from their original
position. Many fleshy root-stalks also move ; the new bud
being produced beyond the old one, and sometimes several

24 WHAT ARE BULBS?

inches distant. This is an additional reason for occasion-
ally taking up all bulbs, as many are annually lost from a
want of this simple precaution. Another reason is, that
the bulb, if left in the ground, is often too early stimulated
into growth. If, however, we do not care for the finest
bloom, but are content with a good display, all common
hardy bulbs may be left in the ground undisturbed for three
or four years, if once carefully planted.

Bulbs are propagated by offsets , or smalt bulbs, which
are produced at the base of the root, or parent bulbs,
and in the axils of the leaves, and occasionally as flower-
buds, and which soon produce flowering plants. They are
also raised from seed, which, however, seldom produces a
flowering plant in less than three years. The scaly bulbs
may be propagated by planting the scales in sand ; each
scale, in time, producing a new bulb. Hyacinths, gladiolus,
and some other bulbs, are occasionally increased by cutting
the old bulb into pieces ; each portion being forced to put
forth a new shoot and roots. The two former methods are
those used by Nature : the latter we owe to the skill of the
gardener.

All bulbs are monocotyledons or endogens : that is, the
embryo, or cotyledon, has but one leaf, and the leaves are

WHAT ARE BULBS? 25

almost always parallel-veined, without any, or very slight,
ramifications ; while those of dycotyledonous plants, or
plants having two seed-leaves, are strongly reticulated.

As a class, bulbs are most interesting, whether we regard
the facility with which they can be cultivated, or the variety,
profusion, and brilliancy of their flowers. A bulb-bed can
be gay every month, from early April to November ; and
the brilliancy of their bloom is unrivalled in the floral king-
dom. Their name is Legion, and many of the rarer species
are no less curious than beautiful. Their greenhouse and
parlor culture is very simple, and the flower well repays
the necessary care.

A bulb-case in a south window, and a bulb-bed under it,
will give us flowers from January to December, as we
begin the year with fragrant hyacinths, and enjoy, in turn,
the ever-welcome snowdrop, the gay crocus, the delicate
iris, the modest erythronium, the gaudy tulip, scented hya-
cinths, brilliant narcissus, stately lilies, gladiolus, tigridias,
and tardy colchicum, till the double Roman narcissus once
again bids us a merry Christmas and a happy New Year.

II.

GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE.

S we have seen that the bulb is renewed
yearly, it follows that the chief end of cul-
ture should be to facilitate this renewal,
especially if we wish the plant to grow
stronger year by year, or to increase by
offsets.

In ordinary house-culture, this end is
entirely lost sight of. The bulb is grown for the flower,
which, being already formed when the bulb is planted, is
only developed and brought to perfection. When the
flower has faded, the bulb is cast aside, and no further care
is given ; and as a natural consequence, even if the bulb
survives until another season, the flower (if it bloom at all)
is poor, weak, and worthless.

The primary rule in bulb-culture is, grow the foliage well.
The stronger and more vigorous the leaves are, the stronger
will be the bulb, and, consequently, the larger and finer

26

GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE. 27

the bloom. Neglect of this first rule is the cause of most
failures. To bloom the bulbs well the first year is easy :
you have only to develop what another has prepared : the
success can hardly be called your own. But if, the second
year, you can produce as fine, or even finer flowers, you
may well claim to possess skill in bulb-culture.

While, however, we may not care to take the trouble to
grow our bulbs well, so as to produce finer bloom year by
year, it may be well to know how to do it. The present
great mart for the more common bulbs is Holland, where
bulb-culture is. the business of many principal horticul-
turists, by whom the foreign market is supplied. This
business has been carried on so extensively for many years,
that certain exotic bulbs, such as tulips, hyacinths, and
crocus, are generally known as " Dutch or Holland bulbs."
These bulbs are raised in such quantities, and are so cheap,
that, in this country, it is easier to import bulbs than to
raise them : so that the bulbs which have flowered in the
winter are usually thrown away, or planted in some corner
of the garden, where they come up, and bloom year after
year, and occasionally produce fine flowers.

The rarer bulbs are more cared for, as they are much
more difficult to procure, and far more expensive. The

28 GENERAL RULES OP CULTURE.

same general rules of culture, however, apply to both,
whether they are hardy or tender.

Imported bulbs are often weak from being kept a long
time out of the ground : this is especially the case with
lilies and erythroniums, of which a large proportion never
survive the first winter : crocus and hyacinths, being of a
different nature, are seldom injured. The bulbs should be
planted at once in proper soil, according to the species :
if out of doors, in a well-drained bed ; if in doors, in well-
drained pots. There are few bulbs which need a wet situ-
ation, and all are impatient of standing water : therefore,
to secure good drainage is one of the points of primary
importance in bulb-culture. Hardy bulbs may be planted
as late as the ground keeps open ; and we have often set
them out when it was necessary to take off a thick crust of
frozen earth before we found ground soft enough to work.
In one instance, a lot of hyacinths and crocus, received
very late, were planted in the frozen ground (the holes being
made with a crowbar), and the next spring showed a fine lot
of flowers, but little later than, or inferior to, those planted
earlier. It should, however, be stated, that the winter was
most favorable to the winter-growth of the bulbs ; the earth
being covered with snow, and the frost never penetrating to

GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE. 29

any great depth : had the winter been " open," all the bulbs
would have perished. As a general rule, the bulbs should
be planted in October, that the roots may make a good
growth before the cold weather sets in.

The mode of planting must vary according to various
tastes ; but generally the bulbs should be so grouped as
to give the most effect when in blossom. Thus snow-
drops, crocus, erythroniums, Persian iris, and other small
bulbs, should never be planted singly, but always in clumps,
the larger the better ; the single bulbs about an inch apart
every way, or in triple lines as an edging to a bed.
Hyacinths, narcissus, and other large bulbs, may be planted
singly or in lines, but are far more effective planted in
threes ; that is, one at each point of a triangle, each bulb
about nine inches from the others. A combination of colors
may often thus be very prettily contrived.

The bulbs should never be mixed. Let each kind be
planted in masses by itself, if the full effect of each be
desired. We have often seen a mixture of crocus and
snowdrops by which the snowdrops were entirely lost,
their simple beauty being Avholly neutralized by the more
gaudy colors of the crocus. Hyacinths and narcissus do
not accord well together, nor do jonquils and frittelarias

30 GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE.

(F. meleagris). Crown imperials (Frittelaria imperialis)
should stand by themselves in clumps : if planted in
mixture with smaller bulbs, they cause them to appear
insignificant by their stately growth.

In arrangement, again, the smaller bulbs should be
planted in the foreground, the taller growers behind : thus
each, when in bloom, appears to the best advantage.

Much may be effected by a tasteful arrangement of
colors : clumps of white, blue, yellow, and purple crocus,
planted alternately with broad belts of snowdrops, are very
showy.

As a general rule, stakes marked with the names of
varieties are unsightly, as too conspicuous. Most bulbs are
low growers ; and while it may be interesting to know the
name of a showy variety, yet to have it forced upon the
attention by a painted stake robs the flower of much of its
effect. Where care has been taken in the selection of
varieties (and named varieties are always the best, and
give more satisfaction), it is well to preserve the names;
which may very easily be done by having a plan of the
bulb bed drawn on a sheet of paper, and the proper position
of each species and variety indicated by a figure refer-
ring to an index of names. In planting in the open ground,

GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE. 31

the general rule is that the crown of the bulb should be
placed an inch below the surface : if in a situation, how-
ever, where the bulbs would be liable to be thrown out
by the frost, an inch and a half will not be too deep.
The larger the bulb, the deeper it should be planted ;
and all lilies and crown imperials should be set three
inches below the surface, and even deeper if the bulbs are
very large. Crocus should be set deeper than bulbs of
the same size, as their tendency is to grow out of the
ground ; and iris rather higher, as they naturally bury
themselves : this upon the supposition that the bulbs are
not to be taken up annually. The bulb bed may be made
more effective if gently sloped from the back to the front :
if under a window, slope it toward the path ; but the
inclination should always be to the south, as thus, in winter,
it receives more sun, and the flowers bloom earlier in the
spring. There is often a difference of three weeks in the
blooming of bulbs planted at the same time under a south
and west window, the difference being in favor of the
former. If the house is stone or brick, or has a stone un-
der-pinning, it is a good plan to have a narrow border dug
close to the house. Fill this with snowdrops and yellow
cloth-of-gold crocus, or the pretty little striped Scotch

32 GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE.

crocus : the former, in a favorable season, will bloom in
February ; and the latter, very early in March.

The bulbs being planted (say about the middle of Octo-
ber), there is nothing more to be done until the ground
begins to freeze. But the bulbs are by no means idle :
no sooner are they planted than they begin to grow. A
crocus or hyacinth will in a few days throw out a root
an inch long, if in a moist soil ; the shoot also begins to
protrude, and in a few weeks the plant is fairly established.
As soon as the ground begins to freeze at night, the bed
should be covered with three or four inches of coarse
litter, which will prevent the earth from freezing very
deep, and thus allow the roots to grow all winter. Unless
the cold is very severe, the plants will continue to push ;
and, when the covering is removed, — which it should be
about the middle of March, or when the snowdrops push
up through the litter, — the bulbs will be found to have
made sprouts an inch or more in length. These, of course,
will be yellow, from not having been exposed to the light ;
but they will soon turn green. As soon as the flowers
have faded, all seed-vessels should be removed, unless it
is desirable to raise seedlings ; as the ripening of seed
weakens the bulb. If the spring is very dry, the bed should

GENERAL RULES OP CULTURE. 33

be occasionally watered, to prevent the premature ripening
of the foliage, and to encourage its growth.

As soon as the leaves have faded, they should be removed ;
and the bulbs should rest (if not taken up) until they
naturally begin to grow again. Showy annuals (such as
portulaca) planted through the bed will cover all bare
places during the summer, and do not send their roots
deep enough to injure the bulbs. As soon as the frost has
killed these, the bed should be cleared, carefully forked
(except where the bulbs are), and a coating of fine manure
supplied. It is a good plan to apply weak liquid manure ;
and an addition of powdered charcoal to the soil of the
bed will give additional brilliancy to the flowers.

Powdered bone or horn-scrapings are also excellent ma-
nures.

The culture of tender bulbs is, in a measure, similar
to that of the hardy species. Potted in well-drained pots,
they should be gently watered, and kept in a warm, shady
place, till they begin to grow ; then water should be more
freely given, and they should be placed in full sunlight,
and as near the glass as possible, to encourage a thick,
sturdy growth.

When in bloom, they should be kept cool, that the dura-
tion of the flower may be prolonged.
3

34

GENERAL RULES OP CULTURE.

During growth, copious syringing should be given, to
destroy the red spider, the great enemy of greenhouse bulbs.

They should not be allowed to ripen seed. After bloom-
ing, the leaves should be grown until the tips begin to
turn yellow ; when water should be less freely administered,
and the plants be« gradually dried off. When thus at rest,
the pots should be turned on their sides, placed on shelves
under the greenhouse stage, or in a shed or cellar, and so
remain until the season for repotting. Bulbs with ever-
green foliage should never be entirely dried of; but the
supply of water should be greatly reduced until the plants
again show signs of growth.

S a general rule, a soil with a proportion
of sand is best suited to the growth of bulbs.
Some even thrive in pure sand ; and there
are very few which will succeed in heavy,
close, clayey, or peaty soil.

This fact must be borne in mind in the culture of all bulbs.
Many require a rich soil, and some will bear manuring ;
but even these need light soil and well-rotted manures.
A good compost for the growth of common bulbs is one
part clean sand, one part leaf-mould 6r rich garden-loam,
and one part well-rotted cow-dung. A good substitute for
this latter is the bottom of an old hot-bed ; but it should be
very well rotted, so that its component parts cannot be dis-
tinguished, and such as will fall away like loam.

35

36 PREPARATION OF SOIL,

In the preparation of beds for hardy bulbs, the following
directions may be given : —

SITUATION.

This should always be sunny ; though, except for early-
blooming species, it need not face the south. There are, in
all the numerous family of bulbs, very few species that
delight in shade. Many of our best-known bulbs are
natives of countries where the sun is far hotter than in our
own ; where the year is divided into but two seasons, — the
rainy and the dry, — during the former of which the growth
is perfected, and, after blooming, the plant rests in a state
of perfect inactivity till called into growth again by the
return of the wet season, or, in some cases, sending up its
flower-stem, then followed by the growth. In this latter
case, however, the bulb is at rest ; the bloom being perfected
during growth, and only developed at a later period.

In the culture of bulbs, as well as in all other culture,
we must, by every means in our power, approximate to the
natural conditions of growth ; and, the nearer we attain this
end, the more perfect will be our success. Thus it follows,
that, while a bulb-bed should have plenty of sun, it should
not be so dry that a good supply of moisture cannot be

AND APPLICATION OP MANURE. 37

obtained during the growing season. These two conditions
we can seldom find ; and, even if we could, few soils are
rich enough for bulb-culture without further preparation :
and therefore, having selected a sunny exposure, where no
large trees may, by their branches, shade the bed, or, by
their roots, rob it of its richness, our next step is the

PREPARATION OF THE BED.

The bed should be at least thirty inches deep, of good
bulb-soil ; and must be well drained. As few situations
naturally fulfil these conditions, excavation is necessary.
First, throw off all the black loam in piles at the side, and
then cart away all yellow loam, sand, or gravel, to the
required depth. If the subsoil is gravel, the bed is ready
for filling ; letting the bottom, however, slope gently from
back to front, the front of the bed being the point of obser-
vation, or that from which it is seen to best advantage
when in bloom. If, however, we have a stiff clay subsoil,
or any that will retain water, it will be necessary to go
from six to nine inches deeper for drainage.

This space should be filled with small stones, laid to a
blind drain at the lowest part, to carry off all superfluous
water. The loam that was removed from the surface may

38 PREPARATION OF SOIL,

then be filled in, provided it does not more than half fill the
bed ; and the bed should then be filled up, some four inches
above the former level, with prepared soil, of equal parts
of loam, or leaf-mould, clean sand, and well-rotted cow-
manure, or old hot-bed. A few days should be allowed
before planting, that the soil may settle. It is always well
to have the surface of the bed an inch or more above the
surrounding soil ; and the surface should slope gently from
the centre to the sides, or from the rear to the front.

A most excellent compost for bulbs, especially for ranun-
culus and anemones, is made by taking the turfs of an
old pasture, making a heap of them, and letting them rot
for two or three years, turning them occasionally to pick
out any insects or hard foreign bodies.

The sand used should be clean and fine, or, as gardeners
say, " sharp ; " free fom all stones or earthy matter, and
fresh. If sea-sand is used, it should be well washed, to
take out the salt : there are but very few bulbs that flourish
in a soil containing salt.

POTTING.

In planting bulbs in pots, the same primary rules of
drainage should be observed. This is effected by filling the

AND APPLICATION OP MANURE. 39

pots with about an inch of broken potsherds, or " crocks,"
and then filling up with prepared soil. Small bits of char-
coal, about the size of a hazel-nut, make a very good drain-
age, and contribute to heighten the brilliancy of the flowers.

The chief care in the growth of bulbs in pots is to pre-
vent the soil from becoming sodden through imperfect
drainage, or too dry from want of sufficient water, during
the season of growth.

It must be borne in mind that the vigorous growth, once
begun, should never cease until the season of rest arrives ;
and any check received from neglect in watering, greatly
injures the bulb.

MANURES.

All manures should be well decomposed, or "rotted."
Fresh or very strong manures are injurious.

Cow-dung is the principal manure used ; but this should
always be a year old, and never be hot.

Horse-dung should never be used, unless perfectly de-
composed, and deprived of all heating principle.

Any manure should be clean, or " very fine ; " that is,
free from worms and slugs, and with no admixture of straw

40

or stubble. It should be in such a condition as to be
thoroughly incorporated with the soil.

In the formation of a bulb-bed, it should be well manured,
and will not generally require further manuring, except the
autumn top-dressing, for several years. If, however, it
becomes poor, liquid manure may be advantageously ad-
ministered. This should be made by mixing cow-dung and
rain-water ; and it should be applied at night, over the sur-
face of the bed, from the fine rose of a water-pot, when
the plants are not in bloom and in growth. Weak guano-
water may also be of service, but should be used with
caution. Powdered charcoal may be mixed with the soil
with advantage to the flowers. Ground bone is an excellent
manure for a bed of hyacinths. Horn-scrapings, or piths,
answer the same purpose.

Bulbs grown in pots need no manure if the soil has been
properly prepared. Waterings of weak manure-water may,
however, be given where a weak growth seems to require it.

Bulbs grown in water are greatly improved by the addi-
tion of a few drops of aqua ammonia to the water each
time it is changed.

In potting hyacinths and tuberoses, after the drainage,
it is our practice to fill in between one and two inches of

AND APPLICATION OF MANURE. 41

dried cow-droppings, collected from the pastures, and which
have been exposed to the weather during the winter.
These are crumbled up and pressed down, and the pot
then filled with prepared soil. In watering, this mass of
manure becomes soft ; and when the young root of the bulb,
pushing through the soil, comes in contact with it, the
effects are at once evident in the growth of the plant. By
this means, we have obtained remarkably fine spikes of
bloom.

These remarks must be understood as applying to plants
which are true bulbs, and as not being without exception.
A bed for gladiolus is best prepared by plentifully manur-
ing with stable-manure, digging it in about November, and
planting the bulbs* in early spring. Many lilies are rather
gross feeders, and will bear any manure which is not
heating. Tubers, or creeping root-stocks, such as dahlias,
cannas, and German iris, delight in a strong, rich, well-
manured soil, and do not thrive in sandy loam : but gener-
ally sandy loam is best suited to bulbs ; and, where they are
planted in a stiff soil, it is best to fill a handful of sand in
the hole made for the bulb, to prevent its rotting in winter
from too much dampness.

IV.

BULB CASES; GROWTH IN WATER, MOSS, AND SAND.

> NE of the most satisfactory modes of grow-
ing bulbs in the house is in a bulb case.
By this very simple contrivance, all the
objections to plants in pots are obviated,
and the plants thrive much better.

The bulb case is a simple oblong table,
as long as the window, where you wish to
grow the bulbs, is wide, and wide enough to accommodate
three medium-sized pots in each cross-row. A very good
size is four and a half feet in length by two feet in width
in the clear, so as to hold three rows of eight pots each.
Let the table be hollow, and eight to ten inches deep, all
thoroughly joined together, and well coated with white lead
on the inside, particularly around the joints. Into this table
fit a zinc pan of the same depth, with wire handles which
turn down inside at each end. The prettiest style of table
for a parlor is of oiled black walnut, with turned legs, pan-

43

elled sides, and as high as the sill of the window. It should
be fitted with strong castors, that it may run easily, and
be turned if the plants grow one-sided. If any other
form is employed, — and we give only the above form and
dimensions as being those most simply made, — the only
care is to see that it is so proportioned that there is no
"waste room on the inside ; that is, that it may accommodate
a certain number of pots without small bare places.

If the table is made circular, the whole top may turn
on a pivot. After the bulbs are potted in October, they
should be put in a dark cellar, and moderately watered,
for three weeks, to encourage the growth of the roots.
When the pots are filled with roots, or when they touch
the sides of the pot (which may easily be ascertained
by inverting the pot, giving the edge a sharp rap, when
the ball will come out entire, may be examined, and may
then be replaced in the pot without injury to the plant),
the pots may be brought from the cellar, and placed in
the bulb case. Fill the case with pots, and fill common
moss obtained in the woods, or sphagnum from the
meadows, into all the interstices, and as high as the
top of the pots ; then cover all the pots about half an
inch with the rich green moss which may be found ou

44 GEOWTH IN WATER, MOSS, AND SAND.

shady rocks in oak woods. The shoots of the bulbs will
soon push through the moss if the table is placed in a
sunny window ; and, if the moss is kept well watered, we
shall have a bed of hyacinths in a garden of moss.

Of course, with such constant watering, much water will
accumulate in the bottom of the pan : but this will produce
no bad effects ; the roots of the plants in time running
through the holes in the bottom of the pots, and luxuriating
in the wet moss. The plants placed in the case early in
November will bloom about Christmas. As soon as the
bloom fades, the pots should be taken from the case, placed
in a light cellar, watered to encourage the growth of the
foliage, and their places supplied with other pots brought
from the cellar. As the plants will not all bloom at once,
the case will always, by thus renewing, have plants in
bloom from Christmas to April.

To maintain this succession, a stock of from seventy-
five to one hundred bulbs should be potted ; and some atten-
tion should be paid to the period of flowering, as some
varieties bloom very early, and others always bloom late
and cannot be forced. The early-blooming varieties should
be brought forward in early winter, while the later should be
left in the cellar till February.

BULB CASES ; 45

The stock of bulbs may all be potted at the same time,
or at intervals of a month. Care must be taken not to
over-water them while in the cellar, as too much moisture
causes rot both of roots and tops. The larger bulbs
should be planted one in a pot ; but of smaller, such as
crocus, tulips, and jonquils, three may be placed in the
same pot.

A number of double Eoman narcissus should always be
potted for very early blooming : these will be out of
bloom by the middle of January, and may be replaced by
Polyanthus narcissus Gloriosa (one of the earliest and
best) ; and these in turn by the stronger and later varieties,
of which Grand Primo and Grand Monargue are the best.
The narcissus, being of tall habit, should be placed in the
middle of the case.

The accompanying plates may give a good idea of the
bulb case before it is filled and after the plants are in
bloom.

The great advantage of growing plants in cases is, that
all spilling of water or overflowing of saucers, and all risk
of overturning or breaking the pots, is avoided ; and thus
plants may be grown in the parlor without " making dirt."

46 GROWTH IN WATER, MOSS, AND SAND.

IN GLASS CASES.

Bulbs are sometimes grown in close glass or Wardian
cases.

The treatment is very simple ; being merely to plant the
bulb in the soil, and to give air enough to prevent rot or
mould.

We have, however, found that, in every case, the leaves
become tall or " drawn," and the flowers were lacking in
brilliancy.

IN WATER.

This popular mode of growing bulbs seldom gives very
fine flowers ; but its simplicity and pretty effect will always

BULB CASES;

recommend it. The bulb should be placed in the glass in
November ; the glass being filled with rain-water up to the
neck, so that the base of the bulb may just touch it. Place
the glasses in a warm, dark place, keeping them filled with
water, for three weeks, or until the glass is half filled with
roots ; then remove to the light, and gradually to full
sunlight.

After blooming, if it is desirable to preserve the bulb, it
should be taken from the glass, and planted in earth, to
strengthen it.

The water in the glasses should be changed every week,
or as often as it becomes cloudy (a bit of charcoal in the
water will, however, keep it sweet and clear) ; and, in

48 GROWTH IN WATER, MOSS, AND SAND.

renewing the water, care must be taken that that supplied
be of the same temperature as that taken away.

There are many forms and colors of glasses : those of
dark glass are best for the bulbs.

The accompanying figure shows some of the many attrac-
tive forms : —

The bulbs usually grown in glasses are hyacinths : but
we occasionally see English iris, tulips, and narcissus,
which make a pretty show ; the treatment required for them
being the same as for the hyacinth.

A few drops of glue or ammonia, added to the water in
which bulbs are grown, increases the brilliancy of the
flower, and strengthens the bulb.

BULB CASES; 49

IN VEGETABLES.

Hyacinths are sometimes grown in a carrot or turnip,
hollowed out, and filled with water. The bulb grows well ;
and a growth of young foliage springs from the top of this
novel flower-vase, and entirely conceals the bulb. In this
way, many pretty effects may be produced. The treatment
is the same required by bulbs in glasses.

IN MOSS.

Pots or glasses may be filled with moss, and bulbs grow
very prettily therein. The treatment is the same as that
required by bulbs in earth. A very pretty way is to make
a ball of moss, fill it with bulbs, wire it round, and hang it
in a warm, light place ; occasionally turning it to make an
even growth, and dipping it in water when it gets dry.
The shoots of the bulbs will cover the moss, and the roots
will run through the inside. The Jacobean lily (Sprekelia,
or Amaryllis formosissimus^ grown in this way, blooms
beautifully, and is a fine summer ornament.

50 GROWTH IN WATER, MOSS, AND SAND.

IN SAND.

This mode is popular, as sand is cleaner than earth, and
the contrast of the white sand and green leaves is very
pleasing. The only care necessary is to see that the sand
contains no salt, and that it never becomes dry. The other
treatment is the- same required by bulbs grown in earth.

CROCUS-POTS.

Crocus are often grown in fancy china-pots, represent-
ing porcupines. They are planted so that the leaves may
represent the quills of the animal. The pots may be filled
with earth, moss, or sand, and treated as directed for bulbs
thus grown. The great difficulty is to produce an even
growth, the effect generally being a porcupine with quills
in a very dilapidated condition ; and therefore this mode
of growth is not now as popular as formerly.

V.

DISEASES AND INSECTS.

ISEASES are not of fre-
quent occurrence in bulb
culture, if proper attention
is paid to the preparation

of soil, and the application of water ; and bulbs are subject

to the attacks of few insects, if reasonable care is taken.

The principal are red spider, green-fly, mealy bug, black,

brown, and white scale, mildew and rot.

PREMATURE FLOWERING.

Premature flowering — that is, the flowers of such bulbs
as hyacinths expanding without pushing up a flower-stalk —
is not strictly a disease, but is caused by improper culture.
This not unfrequently occurs when the bulbs are exposed

51

52 DISEASES AND INSECTS.

to light and heat soon after planting, and before they have
had time to put forth roots. As there are no roots to draw
nourishment from the earth, the bulb is thrown upon its
own resources, and the leaves and flower are produced at
the expense of the nutriment already laid up in the scales
of the bulb. There is no power or strength to throw up a
foot-stalk, and the flowers half expand down in the bulb.
Often, in such cases, we find, in the course of time, the
withered flowers elevated on a long foot-stalk ; showing that,
as soon as sufficient roots were matured, the bulb did all
that was necessary to produce a fine flower.

This same premature flowering sometimes occurs, even
where there are plenty of roots, if the room Avhere the plants
are grown is subject to great variations of temperature.
Where this is the case, the simple remedy of a more
equable temperature, and more air, will produce satisfac-
tory results.

It sometimes happens that a bulb will develop flowers
on a short foot-stalk, in spite of every care. This may be
the effect of too much direct sun and heat, or may be a
defect in the bulb. An easy course of treatment is to make
a cylinder of card-board, stiff brown paper, or some other

DISEASES AND INSECTS. 53

opaque substance, just large enough to fit over the shoot
of the bulb, and about eight inches long. Fit this over the
bulb, and it will cause the leaves and flower-stalks to grow
out of it to reach the light. As soon as both are sufficiently
long, the case may be removed.

TARDY FLOWERING.

This often occurs from want of sufficient light or heat.
In the former case, the leaves and flower-stem become drawn
and white, and the flowers are pale : in the latter, the plant
is somewhat stunted ; and the flowers die without expanding,
or are destitute of color. If the flower-stem is gone, the
only treatment is to grow the plant well, that the foliage
may mature a good bulb for another year, by giving plenty
of light and heat. If, however, the flower-buds have not
withered, the buds will, by removing the plant to a warm,
sunny situation, gain color, and give good bloom.

It is worthy of remark, that neither premature nor tardy
flowering occurs in open-air culture, but only attack house-
grown bulbs. The inference is obvious that they are
caused by our treatment not supplying some requisite of
growth which Nature affords.

54 DISEASES AND INSECTS.

RED SPIDER.

Some bulbs are especially liable to the attacks of this

pest of greenhouse culture. Those with soft leaves, such as

*
hyacinths and narcissus, are not generally troubled ; but

those with stiff, gladiate foliage, as most of the Cape bulbs,
seldom escape.

It will be noticed that this is usually a trouble in parlor
or greenhouse culture, out-door bulbs being seldom attacked.
The presence of the spider is easily known by the foliage
of the infested plants assuming a rough, scaly, reddish-
brown or white appearance ; or, in severe cases, being
covered with minute, hardly visible cobwebs, and inhabited
with myriads of small red spiders.

An examination of any foliage so infested, under a
microscope, shows a network of web covering the whole
leaf, and the presence of multitudes of insects, and this
even before the effect of their presence is perceived by the
naked eye.

These spiders feed upon the juices of the plant, and, by
sucking all life from the foliage, weaken, and eventually
destroy, the bulb. They also invest the scaly covering
and skin of those bulbs (such as amaryllis) which require
to be planted one-half above the surface of the ground.

DISEASES AND INSECTS. 55

Heat and drought are favorable to their growth and
development ; and they are most abundant in the warmest
and sunniest parts of the greenhouse, such as the top
shelves near the glass, where Cape bulbs are usually
grown to prevent them from becoming drawn.

The remedy is copious syringing, whenever the plants
are not in full sunshine. If the foliage can be kept moist
for a while, it is certain death to the spider.

This is the reason for the constant syringing of foliage
required in the culture of Cape bulbs, as, without great care,
they are sure to be attacked by spider. In this the old
maxim, " An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of
cure," well applies ; for if the red spider once establishes
himself, and browns the leaves, the beauty of the plant is
gone for the season.

While red spider is peculiarly a subject of in-door culture,
it sometimes, in times of drought, becomes formidable in
the garden. During the last two summers of extreme
drought (1864 and 1865), it has been very common on
gladiolus as well as on many garden-plants ; but, though
always to b.e found on garden-plants in summer, it seldom
produces any perceptibly injurious effects.

56 DISEASES AND INSECTS.

Where the spider is very plenty, a little flower of sulphur
may be dusted over the foliage to advantage.

A good preventive is to place a pan upon the flue of the
greenhouse, fill it with water, and dust into it a few hand-
fuls of flower of sulphur : the fumes arising from this when
the water becomes heated are death to the spider. Care
must be taken not to allow these fumes to rise upon very
delicate plants, as they are sometimes injurious.

The common remedy of putting sulphur on the flue
should^be used with great caution, as, though sure death to
the spider, it often kills the plants, or causes them to lose
their leaves.

In house-culture, the simplest remedy for spider is syrin-
ging, or, where this cannot be done, frequent sponging of
the foliage with pure water, or sulphur and water.

GREEN-FLY.

The green aphis, or fly, so common in greenhouses, is
often found on the foliage of bulbs.

The easiest and best remedy is a gentle fumigation of
the greenhouse, or of the infected plant under a barrel, as
in the ordinary treatment of house-plants for this pest.

DISEASES AND INSECTS. 57

The insects are stupefied by the smoke, fall from the foli-
age, and are easily washed away by a subsequent syringing.
This latter is important, as the tobacco seldom kills, but
only stupefies, the fly ; and if not washed off, and drowned
by the water, the insects crawl up on to the foliage again,
and the labor is lost. It is also useful to wash off any
which may still cling to the leaves.

MEALY BUG.

This enemy is much more difficult to conquer than the
two preceding, as no general application will be effective.
Fortunately, bulbs are but little infested. The remedy is to
pick or wash off the insects by a careful sponging of the
foliage. A touch of kerosene oil, applied to the bug with a
very fine camel' s-hair pencil, is instant death, and not injuri-
ous to the plant.

Where these insects infest the scales or skin of green-
house bulbs, as is not uncommon, they are with difficulty
extirpated. The treatment is to peel off so much of the old
skin as can be done without injury, and then carefully
remove all bugs that can be seen, and repeat the process as
often as any bugs can be found.

58 DISEASES AND INSECTS.

BLACK, BROWN, AND WHITE SCALE.

Bulbs that make an annual growth are seldom troubled
by these insects ; but they are not uncommon on those with
evergreen foliage.

The simple treatment of washing the foliage and leaf-
stalks of the infested plants with a sponge dipped in weak
warm soapsuds will be found effectual in all cases.

House-bulbs are seldom liable to be attacked by these
insects.

MILDEW

Sometimes attacks soft-foliaged bulbs, but is easily re-
moved by a sprinkling of flower of sulphur over the
diseased part, or by putting sulphur on the flue of the house
in a pan of water, as previously directed. It is caused by
too much moisture, and is especially prevalent in damp
warm weather.

EOT.

This disease attacks the bulb, and is not susceptible of
curative treatment. When a bulb is attacked by wet or
dry rot, if it has not progressed too far, or is not in the

DISEASES AND INSECTS. 59

core or heart of the bulb, cutting away the affected parts
with a sharp knife will sometimes save the bulb ; other-
wise a diseased bulb should never be planted, as it may
infect others.

Gladiolus are subject to a peculiar form of rot. The
surface of the bulb is covered with black specks, which
spread all over it, and finally dry up and kill the bulb.
Such bulbs should not be thrown away (especially if of
valuable varieties), as they sometimes recover; but should
be planted by themselves, that they may not infect sound
bulbs. We have noticed that bulbs in heavy soils were
more subject to this disease than those in soil of a light,
sandy nature ; and also that old bulbs are much more likely
to be affected than young ones.

A remedy, or rather preventive, may be to put a little
sand in the hole in planting the bulb, and to raise seedlings
instead of planting old varieties ; the latter to be especially
recommended, as our American seedlings are better than
imported varieties.

In the attention paid to the culture of the hyacinth in
Holland, several diseases have developed themselves, which
are best described in an article translated from the Dutch
for "The Gardener's Magazine," from which we give the
following extracts : —

60 DISEASES AND INSECTS.

" The hyacinth is liable to seven diseases : first, the
white rotz ; second, the black rotz ; third, the rot ; fourth,
mould ; fifth, consumption, or wasting ; sixth, shrinking ;
seventh, excess of offsets.

u First, The white rotz is known by a resin, which gen-
erally oozes from the upper part of the bulb, and also from
the side, about October ; and is of a hard consistency, not
unlike the resin that flows from trees. The white rotz also
assumes the appearance of a white, slimy substance, and
has a very unpleasant smell, which is particularly evident
when the bulb is cut open ; and bulbs in this state should
be thrown away without hesitation. The rotz has been
assumed to be incurable, and bulbs so affected are generally
thrown away : they should never be planted, as they infect
the ground to such a degree, that sound bulbs, planted in
the ground as late as three years after, become infected.
Where the diseased bulb is very valuable, if it is placed in
a place where snails abound, they will eat out the diseased
part, and the bulb often recovers and grows.

" Second, The black rotz is more difficult to know than
the white rotz, because, as soon as the bulb is taken out of
the ground and kept dry, the rotz dries up also. The stool,
or plate, of the bulb, — that is, the point from which the

DISEASES AND INSECTS. 61

roots proceed, — appears as if eaten out on the side ; and the
scales at that part have dry, black edges. When, therefore,
there is but little of this disease in the bulb, it is very diffi-
cult to be ascertained ; and it must be particularly looked
for when the bulbs are about to be put into the ground, as
it will not only destroy the infected bulb, but all those that
are healthy near it. A bulb so attacked, must, therefore,
be thrown away.

" Third, The rot is easily known when it is once fairly
begun. It is generally found in the scales near the heart
of the bulb ; and, to discover it, the point of the bulb should
be cut off horizontally with a sharp knife. If the bulb is
affected with this disease, a yellowish or brownish stripe
will be seen between the scales, and all the part thus dis-
colored should be cut away till it is completely eradicated ;
but, when it reaches farther than half of the bulb, it is past
remedy, and the bulb must be thrown away. Great care
must, however, be taken, in cutting off the point of the bulb,
not to injure the germ which has formed inside of it ; and,
when this is likely to be the case, the cuts should .be made,
not horizontally, but in a slanting direction, towards the
point of the bulb, so as not to run any risk of cutting off
the extremity of the incipient flower.

62 DISEASES AND INSECTS.

" It frequently happens that these stripes are but very
little distinguished from the color of the healthy part of the
bulb ; and therefore great attention is necessary, that they
may not be overlooked. When two, three, or more stripes
are seen round the heart of the bulb, it is generally past
recovery ; but if they are found far from the heart, and con-
sequently near the outer scales, they can all be cut away,
with the exception of such as have reached the root-plate
and attacked it. Above all, care must be taken that neither
the germ nor the root-plate of the bulb is injured ; but all
parts round them may be cut away.

" Fourth, The mould is found only on the outer or inner
part of the first four scales : it is not considered a danger-
ous disease, but must be removed by taking off those scales
that are attacked.

" Fifth) Consumption, or wasting, is indicated by never-
varying yellowish or brownish spots in the scales near the
heart. This disease is not a dangerous one, but is rather
an indication of a weak flower, and is very common with
several varieties. These spots may go through the whole
bulb without being injurious : therefore they are not to be
compared with the stripes of the rot.

" Sixth , Shrinking is indicated by spots similar to those

DISEASES AND INSECTS. 63

above mentioned, only they are much larger. This disease
generally draws the whole bulb in a slanting direction, and
a part of it appears as if eaten out. The bulb loses its
usual round form. This is similar to the disease called
wasting, but in a greater degree, and is with great difficulty
removed. It is better to throw away all bulbs attacked
with this disease.

" Seventh, Excess of offsets takes place only in bulbs
capable of producing flowers. The offsets come out at the
sides or through the stool or plate, and the parent bulb
becomes divided into a number of young ones.

" When this is the case, it is left exactly as it is, and
planted like the others ; and, although the bulb will not
flower, it will produce a great many young bulbs.

"Bulbs which have been cut to eradicate disease should
be planted within thirty-six hours after, as a further delay
may be conducive to the re-appearance of disease."

Bulbs in the open air are subject to few enemies. Crocus
are sometimes eaten by field-mice, and mice are also very
fond of tiger-flowers ; but the depredations thus committed
are few.

Careful preparation of the bulb-bed, and proper planting,
will almost always give a fine show of bulbs in the garden.

VI.

THE HYACINTH, SCILLA, URGINEA, MYOGALUM, NAR-
CISSUS.

THE HYACINTH.

HE many hundred varieties of hyacinth
known to our gardens have all descended
from one species, — H. orientalis ; which
is found wild in Asia, near Aleppo and
Bagdad.

In its wild state, it is generally blue,
sometimes pink, and, of course, single. It
is mentioned by Gerard, and must have
been introduced before 1596. Till the
beginning of the present century, though there were many
double varieties, the only colors known were white, blue,
and pink : the straw or lemon colored varieties were then
produced from seed ; and, at the present day, there is
scarcely any shade of any color which has not been pro-
duced in the hyacinth.

64

THE HYACINTH. 65

The soil suitable for the hyacinth is a light, friable,
sandy loam, from which all stones, sticks, and other coarse
material, have been removed. The soil should be coarse
enough to pass through an inch sieve ; and should never be
very fine, nor yet of a coarse, tenacious nature.

To such a soil, a liberal quantity of well-rotted cow-dung,
free from straw and coarse material, should be added ; and
a few bushels of clean soot, if for a very large bed.

This latter will act as a manure and improve the flower,
and also drive away any noxious grubs and worms. The
compost should be well mixed, and the parts thoroughly
incorporated. If, when prepared, it is so close as to cling
together when pressed, a few bushels of clean fresh sand
may be advantageously added.

This compost is all that is required for the growth of the
hyacinth, both in pots or in the garden.

SELECTION OF BULBS.

The bulbs should be clean, roundish, hard, and heavy.
Those bulbs presenting a surface of scales should not be
chosen, as they seldom give good bloom ; but those having
the surface covered with a thin, clean skin, should be
selected. 5

66 THE HYACINTH.

V

Size is no criterion ; for some varieties always produce
large bulbs, and others are usually small. Round, medium-
sized, plump bulbs, the base or root-stool flat, hard, free
from mould or decay, and not sunk, and the top formed of
small, closely-fitted scales, with perhaps a stout, strong
shoot just pushing, will give the best flower : those having
a hollow apex should be avoided.

Large, light, scaly bulbs seldom produce close, compact
spikes of bloom, though often throwing a fine mass of
foliage, and giving several loose spikes of bloom. Double-
crowned bulbs, though usually producing two spikes of
bloom, are not desirable, as the flowers are generally infe-
rior in size.

Bulbs should be selected as soon as imported : the expo-
sure to the air, and the handling they undergo in a florist's
shop, do not tend to improve them. If the bulbs are not to
be planted immediately, they should be kept in a cool, dry
place, laid singly, or wrapped in thin paper, and as nearly
as possible in a state of perfect rest. If kept too moist, the
roots are excited to growth ; and if too hot, the tops sprout.
If by chance the roots have started, the bulbs should at
once be planted. The single varieties produce the finest
spikes and more flowers ; the double, the finest single

THE HYACINTH. 67

blooms. Double varieties are not fitted for growing in
water or for very early forcing ; and generally, for growing
in the house, the single varieties are to be preferred.

PLANTING IN BEDS.

Hyacinths are most effective in the garden ; and, the beds
having been prepared of a proper compost, the bulbs may
be planted in October.

Varieties should not be mixed, as they vary greatly in
height, general habit, and time of blooming, so that a mix-
ture is sure to produce a bad effect. Therefore, whether
they be planted in lines or clumps, let each line or clump
be of one variety, and, of course, of one color.

The bulbs should be planted three or four inches deep,
according to the size ; the larger being planted deeper, and
about six inches apart, in lines or double lines ; a foot
being allowed between each line, and six inches between
each double line. A very pretty way is to fill the bed with
triangles of three bulbs of the same color, taking care to
let the colors of the different triangles contrast well, and
not to plant two triangles of the same color together ; the
two bulbs at the base of each triangle being nine inches

68 THE HYACINTH.

from that at the apex, and the same distance from each
other, and a foot being allowed between each triangle.

Hyacinths should always be planted in dry weather ; and
if set in common garden-soil, in which they sometimes do
well, a little clean sand should be placed round each bulb
to prevent rot. The bed should be covered with leaves or
litter as soon as the frost sets in, and remain covered till
the bulbs push in spring.

A writer in " The Cottage Gardener" gives the following
directions for the preparation of a common bulb-bed, which
will serve for those who have not time for more thorough
preparation : —

" When the beds [of the garden] are cleared of their
summer occupants, it is time to prepare them for planting
bulbs, to bloom in April, May, and the beginning of June.
Nothing is better than deep digging, or trenching, placing
at the bottom of each bed six inches of fresh or recently
fallen tree-leaves, which should be covered with a foot of
soil ; and they will serve to raise the beds considerably, and
allow water to drain away freely. In the course of a year,
the leaves will be pretty well decomposed ; and, on digging
in the succeeding autumn, they will be brought to the sur-
face, and thus the soil will be enriched by a not over-stimu-

THE HYACINTH. 69

lating manure. Fresh leaves being put in every autumn,
the beds annually receive a dressing of vegetable matter,
which saves dung, and, in dry summers especially, the roots
[of bedding-plants] lay hold of the decomposing leaves
when the plants are becoming exhausted by blooming.
The beds should slope from the centre to the sides ; and the
borders, from the back to the front."

PLANTING IN WATER.

As we have said, the single varieties are preferable for
forcing in water, sand, or moss. The heaviest bulbs, with
no offsets, or marks of imperfection or decay at the base,
should be chosen. They should be placed in the glasses
about the first of November ; the glasses being filled with
rain or river water, and the base of the bulb just touching
the water. They should then be placed in a dark place
where the temperature does not exceed 50°, and remain
about a month, or until the roots are three or four inches
in length. They may then be brought out to the light, and
gradually inured to full sunshine. As the water evapo-
rates, it must be supplied, and must be changed as often as
it becomes discolored or impure ; or it may be kept sweet

70 THE HYACINTH.

by the addition of a small bit of charcoal. The plants
should be kept at an even temperature, and the foliage
washed occasionally if it becomes dusty; and the glass
should be frequently turned, that the plants may not become
one-sided.

A few drops of hartshorn added to the water are bene-
ficial to the bloom ; and we have given liquid manure, say
ten drops, twice a week, with good results. After bloom-
ing, the bulbs should be placed in earth to mature their
foliage. Hyacinths grown in water will not bloom the
next year, but will the third season if grown in soil.

IN MOSS OR SAND.

Hyacinths grow well in moss or sand, and latterly have
been most successfully grown in England in cocoanut
refuse. The vessel, or pot, should have ajbout half an
inch of pounded charcoal placed at the bottom : on this the
moss or sand should be placed, and the bulbs planted up to
the apex. Place the whole in a dark place, as directed for
bulbs in water, previously giving a good watering ; and,
when brought to the light, plant little sprigs of Lycopodium
denticulatum between the bulbs, or cover the surface with

THE HYACINTH. 71

green moss from the woods. The plants will need to be
kept moist, and the leaves must be sponged to keep them
clean. Hyacinths may also be grown in turnips or carrots,
hollowed out as directed in a preceding chapter, and pro-
duce a pretty effect.

IN POTS.

As a general rule, a hyacinth should not be grown in a
pot less than twice the diameter of the bulb ; and, where
more than one bulb is grown in a pot, the distance between
each bulb should be equal to the diameter of the largest.

For single bulbs, pots six inches in diameter are suffi-
cient ; but, when they can be procured (and any potter
can easily make them), we prefer a bulb-pot four inches
wide, and from eight to. ten deep, which gives better room
for the development of the roots. Three hyacinths in a
pot look very well, and the same objections to combination
of color do not exist in house as in garden planting. A
very pretty effect is produced by a red, white, and blue
hyacinth in the same pot.

The pots being prepared by placing a crock on the hole
in the bottom of each, and the bulbs being ready, the offsets

72 THE HYACINTH.

and all loose scales having been removed, we proceed to
pot the bulbs ; the time being from the first of September to
the middle of November, according to the time at which we
wish them to bloom. Often, however, it is best to make
several plantings, at periods of from two to four weeks, to
secure a succession of bloom. And, first, place about half
an inch or more of dried cow-dung, such as may be picked
up in the pastures, crumbled fine, and free from wire-
worms or grubs, at the bottom of the pot; then fill in
with the prepared compost, placing the bulb so that its
apex is just above the surface of the soil, and the soil about
half an inch from the top of the pot at the side, and sloping
from the bulb. Give a good watering from the fine rose
of a watering-pot, and set the pots in a sheltered place, on
a bed of coal-ashes, if out doors or in a cellar. The ashes
will prevent earth-worms from entering the pots. The
object now is to promote the growth of roots before the
shoot develops, which is effected by " plunging " the pots,
or by putting them in a dark frame. By the former •
method, the pots are placed close together, and covered
with from four to eight inches of coal-ashes, tan, or any
material of similar nature ; and thus they are to remain
until the roots touch the sides of the pot, when they, or as

THE HYACINTH. 73

many as are needed to bring in, are taken out, and gradu-
ally inured to the light.

This same object is as well gained, however, by placing
the pots in a cool cellar, or in a cold frame darkened.

Hyacinths thus plunged in coal-ashes can be safely kept
all winter, and be taken out and forced into bloom in
early spring, as they are not injured by frost. They need,
however, to be protected from soaking rains.

Where hyacinths are required for bloom in early winter,
they require to be forced. For this purpose, about the 1st
of October, they are taken from the frame, and placed in a
gentle hot-bed made of horse-dung, and remain there till
the pots are full of roots, and the tops begin to start, which
will be in about a fortnight : they are then taken to the
greenhouse, and gradually forced into bloom by gradually
increasing the temperature, giving them plenty of air, keep-
ing them near the glass, and keeping the soil moist, but not
wet. They should have all the sun that can be given. The
temperature at its extreme should range from 55° to 70° ;
and care must be taken that the plants experience no sud-
den check.

By bringing in successive lots of hyacinths, a succession
of bloom may be had from Christmas to May Day. If the

74 THE HYACINTH.

grower has no greenhouse, he may grow the bulbs in a
parlor ; keeping them in the cellar until he wishes to bring
them forward, or in a cold frame as above directed.

As a general rule, hyacinths potted in September will
bloom in December ; those potted in October and Novem-
ber, in January, February, and March : but these seasons
may be greatly varied by forcing and retarding.

When coming into bloom, hyacinths should be watered
with weak liquid manure, unless potted with cow-dung as
before directed, in which case they will not need it.

We copy from an English work the following rules of
hyacinth-growing, and which apply well to all Dutch bulbs.
The essentials to success in growing hyacinths are, —

" First, Placing the bulbs in a cool situation until the
pots are filled with roots.

u Second, Keeping them near the glass ; for, the more
light, the greater is the elaboration of the food and the more
stiff is the foliage,, the more compactly are the bulbs
arranged, the stouter the stalk that supports them, and the
brighter the color of the flowers.

" Third, The size of the flowers, and the shortness, or
rather stiffness, of the spike, depend upon their having
plenty of air on all favorable occasions.

THE HYACINTH. 75

" Fourth, That they have no more heat than is necessary
to maintain the plant in a healthy growing state ; for, the
more naturally a plant is excited, the more satisfactory are
the results.

'-Fifth) A free, open soil, with plenty of vegetable
matter.

" Sixth, Perfect drainage, and being kept free from
worms.

" Seventh) A moist soil at all times, neither too wet nor
too dry ; but double the quantity of moisture may be
afforded when the truss is nearly developed, every alternate
watering being with weak liquid manure, at the tempera-
ture of the house or room.

" Eighth) When in bloom, their beauty will last much
longer if they are kept in an almost invariable temperature
of 40° to 45°, instead of a variable one ; but they must
be fully in flower, or the colors will not be so bright nor the
flowers so fine without a sufficiency of light and heat.

" Ninth) The hyacinth will bloom much more satisfacto-
rily in a house from which frost is only excluded than in
one where fire-heat is employed."

In selecting hyacinths for early blooming, some regard
must be paid to the variety, as some are always early, some

76 THE HYACINTH.

always late bloomers ; and it is as useless to attempt to
obtain a Christmas bloom from a late-blooming variety as
to obtain a satisfactory March bloom from a bulb which
naturally blooms early.

After blooming, water should be gradually withheld from
the plants until the foliage turns yellow, when watering
should be wholly discontinued, and the bulb allowed to rest.

Miniature hyacinths, now so popular, are only matured
small roots of named hyacinths, which bloom finely for their
size, and are well adapted for parlor culture.

PROPAGATION.

Hyacinths are propagated by offsets, by cross-cuts, by
hollowing, and by seed.

By Of sets. — The little bulbs, or offsets, should not be
pulled off of the parent bulb, but all should be planted
together ; and, when the offsets have produced a stool or
root-base, they may be removed, and treated like old bulbs.

By Cross-cuts. — Choose the strongest and healthiest
bulbs, and make four cross-cuts in the root-end half-way up
the bulb. This should be done when the bulb is taken up
in June. It should then be treated like the other bulbs ;

THE HYACINTH. 77

and the same autumn the cross-cuts will open pretty wide,
and send out young bulbs at the cut scales. They must be
planted in this state by themselves, and, the next year, are
separated and trimmed. While they are increasing in size,
very little foliage, or none at all, appears on the surface of
the beds, as the old bulb has no longer any influence, and
the young ones only exert their strength towards their own
increase.

By Hollowing. — This is usually done in August, if the
weather is dry. The manner is as follows : Place the
thumb on the root-end of the bulb, and cut round it with a
sharp knife, hollowing out the plate, or root-end, as far as
the middle of the bulb ; and, when the knife has passed in a
circular direction round the bulb, be careful to take it out
again where the incision began ; or rather so make the cut,
that the plate, extending half-way into the bulb, may fall
out of itself. As this operation causes a great deal of moist-
ure to flow from the bulb, and there is danger of rot, it
should not be undertaken in moist weather. The hollowed-
out part of the bulb should not be touched, but be placed on
dry sand on a board, and turned to the sun. After lying
some time, the heart, which extends as far as the point of
the bulb, and which was not removed when the bulb was

78 THE HYACINTH.

hollowed out, becomes detached by the heat of the sun, and
may be removed. After being properly dried, the bulbs are
planted as other bulbs.

When the operation proves successful, a great many
young bulbs are obtained ; but it generally takes four or five
years to bring them to perfection, while those obtained by
cross-cuts mature in three years. Like those obtained from
cross-cuts, they produce no leaves the first year.

By Seed. — Many varieties of hyacinth ripen seed freely,
which may be sown in pans of prepared soil when ripe, and
nursed in a cold frame till the seedlings are large enough
to be planted out in beds. Seedlings bloom the third or
fourth year. By the three former operations, approved
varieties are perpetuated ; by the latter, new varieties pro-
duced.

Of other species of hyacinth, there is H. ametliystinus, a
charming little plant, with blue bells, a native of Spain,
introduced in 1750, but very rare, and probably not hardy ;
and H. spicatus, an insignificant plant, with white-and-blue
flowers, a native of Greece, and not hardy, introduced in
1835, flowering in February.

The following list of fine hyacinths is compiled from the
best English authority. Those marked with a star, and all

THE HYACINTH.

79

the single varieties, are best for early forcing, and culture
in water.

DOUBLE BLUE.

Laurens Koster. Indigo ; bells large, closely arranged.
Van Speyk. Light blue, striped with deep blue ; fine
spike, large bells.

* Paarlboot. Bright pearly blue ; fine bells, and spike.
Pasquin. Pale blue ; fine spike, large bells.

* Comte de St. Priest. Light blue ; fine bells, large
spike.

Bloksberg. Fine marbled blue ; large bells.
Garrick. Intense deep blue ; good spike, with large
bells, closely arranged.

Rudolphus. Sky-blue ; good truss.

80 THE HYACINTH.

Prince Frederick. Porcelain-blue, or lilac-shaded ; large
bells.

Sir Colin Campbell. Light-shaded blue ; immense bells ;
fine spike.

Bouquet Constant. Porcelain-blue ; good bells and
spike.

Othello. Very dark ; small spike, but large bells.

DOUBLE RED.

* Duke of Wellington. Pale rose ; large bells, good
spike.

Jenny Lind. Deep rose ; good bells, and spike.
Milton. Fine deep red ; large bells, good spike.
Czar Nicholas. Rose ; good spike, fine bells.

* Waterloo. Pink at first, changing to deep red ; fine
spike, and bells.

Noble par Merite. Rose ; striped .carmine, large spike,
immense bells.

Groot Voorst. Pale rose ; fine bells.

* Princess Royal. Fine rose, striped with deep pink ;
fine bells, good spike.

Kohinoor. Salmon ; fine bells and spike, perfect form.

* Bouquet Royale. Deep rose, with pink eye.

THE HYACINTH. 81

Regina Victoria. Kosy pink ; fine large spike.
Susannah Maria. Salmon-rose ; fine spike.

DOUBLE WHITE.

* La Tour d'Auvergne. Pure white ; large spike.
Ne Plus Ultra. Large bells, and spike.

* Prince of Waterloo. Very fine ; large bells, and spike.
Sir Bulwer Lytton. White, purple eye ; large spike, and

enormous bells.

Anna Maria. Blush, with pink eye.
Sceptre d'Or. Pure white.
La Vestale. Beautiful white ; good spike.
Don Gratuit. Large bells ; good spike.
Triomphe Blandina. Blush ; deep-pink eye.
La Deesse. Fine spike ; medium bells.

SINGLE RED.

Josephine. Brilliant vermilion ; the best red ; good
spike, and bells.

Cavaignac. Salmon ; deep rose, stripes.
Howard. Orange-crimson.

82 THE HYACINTH.

Circe. Pink, striped with carmine.
Madam Hodgson. Pale pink ; very fine spike.
Pelissier. Scarlet ; immense spike.
Sultan's Favorite. Pale rose ; pink stripes.
Lady Sale. Deep red, suffused with purple ; light eye.
Victoria Alexandrina. Intense" crimson ; large bells,
fine spike.

Queen Victoria. Pale pink ; bright-red stripes.

Von Schiller. Salmon-pink ; very fine.

Florence Nightingale. Pale pink ; carmine stripes.

SINGLE BLUE.

Bleu Aimable. Violet ; shaded blue, fine.
Argus. Blue, white eye ; tube indigo blue.
Charles Dickens. Gray ; shaded blue.
Leonidas. Clear blue ; fine.
Regulus. Pale blue ; fine bells.
Madame Coste. Deep blue ; fine spike.
Grand Lilas. Azure-blue.
Thorwaldsen. Marbled blue ; immense bells.
Porcelain Sceptre. Porcelain-blue ; deep shaded.
Nimrod. Light blue ; fine spike, good bells.

THE HYACINTH. 83

SINGLE WHITE.

Queen of the Netherlands. Fine white.

Madame van de Hoop. Fine bells, and spike.

Snowball. Pure white ; fine bells, and spike.

Paix de 1'Europe. Pure white ; small bells, but fine.

Fair Maid of Denmark. Splendid white ; fine bells.

Alba Maxima. Pure white ; large bells, and spike.

Victoria Regina. Fine white ; very good.

Miss Burdett Coutts. Creamy blush ; very fine.

Gigantea. Blush ; fine spike.

Lady Franklin. Blush ; immense spike.

Grande Blanche Imperiale. Blush ; rose stripes.

Seraphine. Blush ; immense spike.

Elfrida. Creamy blush ; large bells.

SINGLE BLACK.

Gen. Havelock. Purple, changing to black.
Prince Albert. Fine bells on large spike.
La Nuit. Deep purple black ; fine.
Von Humboldt. Purplish black ; white eye.
Lamplighter. Purplish black, with white eye.

84 THE HYACINTH.

SINGLE YELLOW.

Ida. Fine yellow.

San Francisco. Deep yellow,

Victor Hugo. Fine bells, and spike.

Due de Malakoff. Straw-color, with a stripe of lake on
each segment.

Aurora. Straw-color ; the tube splashed with pink, the
segments with pink of a deeper hue on stripes.

Koning van Holland. Creamy yellow, shaded with
reddish orange.'

All these single varieties force well, and will do well in
water. Perhaps the earliest hyacinth is L'Ami du Coeur,
single red.

THE PROPERTIES OF A GOOD HYACINTH, AS A FLORIST
FLOWER, ARE,

1. Each pip, or flower, should be round, and not ragged.

2. The petals should be broad, thick, blunt at the ends,
not pointed, and reflexed enough to throw up the centre
well.

THE HYACINTH. 85

3. The foot-stalk should be strong, and hold the flower out
stiff in a vertical position, that is, facing the spectator ; and
by no means weak, to allow the pip to hang with the face
sloping towards the ground. The foot-stalks should also be
of a length to make the pips touch each other, and no more.

4. The pips should be large : for, unless the pips be large,
they cannot touch each other without very short foot-stalks ;
and the flowers would be so close to the stem, that the truss
itself would be no size.

5. Double flowers should have the rows of petals above
each other very regularly imbricated, so as to throw up the
centre.

6. The outer petals, therefore, of a double flower, need
not reflex, and should not reflex, so much as a single one,
because the centre is raised by the second and third rows
of petals.

7. The spike should be bold, round, compact, and pyram-
idal, with a number of flowers at the bottom, gradually
diminishing to a single flower at the top.

8. The flower-stem should be very strong and upright ;
and no part of it should be seen from the lowest flowers to
the top, in consequence of the closeness of the pips to each
other.

9. The colors should be bright, clear, and dense, what-

86

THE SCILLA.

ever the shade ; and any better approach to scarlet, blue, or
yellow, than those shades we now possess, would be highly
esteemed : flowers with dark eyes, very clear outsides, and
those with striped petals, would be held to be better than
selfs in general, but would give no point against form.

THE SCILLA.

This is a lovely genus of small bulbs, with blue, white,
or pink flowers. They are mostly very early flowering,
and are very effective as borders for bulb-beds or in masses.

The prevailing color is blue. The flowers are produced in
spikes, composed of from six to twelve pendent bells. The
bulbs are generally hardy enough to endure the winter with
the protection usually given to a bulb-bed, and require no
further treatment than to be planted from one to two inches
deep in October or November, in a rather light soil : that
usually prepared for bulbs suits them well. When once
planted, they should not be disturbed oftener than is
required for division.

As the individual bulbs are small, they should always be
grown in masses, or in double or triple lines, as otherwise
they are not effective. Each species should also be planted
by itself.

THE SCILLA. 87

Scilla Siberica is one of the most beautiful ; and no
word can convey an idea of the brilliant blue of the blos-
soms.

Scillas are well adapted for growth in pots, in earth or
sand, and only require to be planted in November, kept ill
a dark, cool place until they have made plenty of roots,
and then gradually inured to light and heat. They look
better in pans than in pots ; and the bulbs should be planted
about an inch deep, and about the same distance from each
other every way.

The principal varieties are

SCILLA SIBERICA. — This species is one of the hardiest
and best. As its name implies, it is a native of Siberia.
The flowers are brilliant, intense blue, and produced, one to
four, on a short spike.

SCILLA PR^COX. — This species has flowers of the same
brilliant blue color as the last. It is a native .of Germany,
and more tender than S. Siberica. It was introduced in
1790, but is not common.

SCILLA CERNUA. — This species bears a great resem-
blance to the English harebell (Hyacinthus, Scilla, or My-
ogalum, non scriptus), but differs slightly botanically. It
is a native of Spain, and has been long in cultivation. The

88 THE SCILLA.

flowers are drooping, pale pink, or purple. It requires
winter protection in the Northern States.

SCILLA CAMPANULATA. — This is one of the finest species ;
common and hardy, although a native of Spain. The
plant is very floriferous and effective : the color is blue ;
but there are pink and white varieties, of which the latter
is the best white squill in cultivation.

SCILLA PATULA. — This species has dark-purple, pink, or
white flowers, and greatly resembles $, cernua, but, unlike
it, has flowers all round the spike. It is a native of Spain,
and is generally hardy.

S. AMCENULA has starry, blue flowers, which are produced
before the leaves. It greatly resembles S. Siberica, and is
a native of the north of Europe. The bulb produces several
flower-scapes, which are from one to three flowered.

S. AMGENA. — This is one of the best species, and, though
a native of the Levant, is generally hardy. The flowers
are bright blue, produced on an erect spike. Introduced
in 1596.

S. VERNA. — This species is a native of England. The
flowers are blue, pink, or white, and fragrant. They do
best in moist, sandy soil.

S. AUTUMNALIS. — Another British species, growing freely
in sandy soil. Flowers pink in September.

THE SCILLA. 89

S. BIFOLIA. — A very pretty species, native of France,
with blue flowers, and white and pink varieties, all of
which are desirable. It requires no care beyond planting
in sandy loam.

S. PERUVIANA. — A fine species, native of Italy and
Spain. It has blue or white flowers, in large, erect trusses.
The soil must be light and sandy, and plenty of water must
be given when in growth. It is probably only half-hardy.

SCILLA ESCULENTA. — This plant is a native of Missouri,
and produces a spike of pretty blue flowers. It is not
hardy in New England.*

The following species are only valuable in a collection.
Most of them are tender, and none particularly desirable.

S. umbellata. — Native of Pyrenees, introduced in 1822 ;
flowers blue.

S. Lilio hyacinthus. — Native of south of Europe, intro-
duced in 1597 ; flowers blue.

S. brevifolia. — Native of Cape of Good Hope, intro-
duced in 1811 ; flowers white.

S. corymbosa. — Native of Cape of Good Hope, intro-
duced in 1793 ; flowers pink.

S. Italica. — Native of Switzerland, introduced in 1605 ;
flowers purplish.

* See Camassia escuknta.

90 THE UKGINEA. — THE MYOGALUM.

S. Lusitanica. — Native of Portugal, introduced in 1777 ;
flowers blue.

S. hyacinthoides. — Native of Madeira, introduced in
1585 ; flowers lead-color.

There are other species of little cultural value. *

THE TJRGINEA.

This plant is also known as Scilla maritima and Orni-
ihogalum maritimum. It is a native of the shores of the
Mediterranean, and is of some officinal value.

It is not uncommon in cultivation, but is not hardy.
The bulb is large ; the flowers, greenish-white, on a very
long spike, are produced in summer ; and the foliage grows
during the winter. The bulbs should be grown in sand ;
but they are hardly worthy of culture.

THE MYOGALUM.

This name has been given to the plant commonly known
as " British harebell," and botanically as Scilla, or Hya-
cinthus non scriptus.

The flowers are blue nodding, and somewhat resemble a

* See " Garden Flowers."

THE NARCISSUS. 91

hyacinth, and also are very like those of Scilla cernua. It
is an elegant little flower, requiring very little care, save to
be planted in a damp, shady spot, and left to take care of
itself. It is a well-known wild-flower in England, but is
little known in this country. The name "harebell" is a
strange misnomer ; although the flowers have a slight resem-
blance to the campanula, usually so called. There are
varieties with pink and white flowers ; but they are not as
desirable as the species. The plant would probably prove
hardy with slight protection.

THE NARCISSUS.

This is a very extensive family of well-known and pop-
ular garden-flowers. Their culture is very simple, as they

92 THE NARCISSUS.

thrive in any good garden-loam, and need little care after
planting. All the species are hardy in England, and most
of them thrive out of doors in the Middle and Southern
states ; but many of the most beautiful, and especially the
polyanthus group, are not hardy enough to perfectly stand
a New-England winter, though they often survive unin-
jured.

The hardy species should be planted in clumps, the bulbs
about two inches apart each way, and three inches deep, in
good garden-soil, in October ; and need not be disturbed
oftener than once in three or four years, and not then
unless they have crowded each other by the production of
offsets. If the soil is wet, they are benefited by the addi-
tion of a little sand placed around each bulb. They all
propagate well by offsets, and may also be increased by
seed, which, in most species, ripens plentifully.

Many species, especially those of the polyanthus tribe,
are often grown in the house for winter-flowering. They
may be successfully grown in water, sand, or earth ; and
require the same treatment as hyacinths.

The jonquil is a species of narcissus, easily grown in the
house or garden, and always a favorite for its bright, fra-
grant flowers. The chief species of narcissus are —

THE NARCISSUS. 93

N. POETICUS. — This very common and beautiful species
is a native of Southern Europe. There are many varieties,
including double and semi-double ; but all are easily dis-
tinguished from other species by the deep-purple ring in
the centre of the color, round the margin of the cup. The
flowers are solitary, white, with a yellow cup, bordered by
red, purple, or orange.

This species needs a deep, rather moist soil, and in such
never fails to expand its flowers. In poor soils, the flowers
are very apt to dry up in the bud-sheath, which they do not
appear to have strength to break. The double varieties
are more liable to this disease than the single. All the
varieties are perfectly hardy, and, once planted, may
remain undisturbed for years.

N. BIFLOKUS. — The origin of this species is unknown :
it has, however, been a garden-flower for several hundred
vears. It resembles the species last described, but is
readily distinguished by having two or three flowers on a
stem, and by the rim of the cup being white. The flowers
are handsome, and very fragrant. The species and vari-
eties are perfectly hardy, though not very common.

N. GRACILIS. — A common and pretty pale-yellow species,
with a deeper-colored variety : both hardy, and growing
freely in any garden-soil.

94 THE NARCISSUS.

N. BULBOCODIUM. — This is the well-known and hand-
some hoop-petticoat narcissus. The flowers are bright
yellow, with wavy margin, and are very ornamental.
Though a native of Portugal, it generally proves hardy,
but needs to be a little favored by planting it in a sheltered
situation.

There is another species nearly allied to this, known as
N. Cantdbricus, or Corbularia albicans, or Cantabricus,
which has white flowers, and which is desirable.

N. TENUIFOLIUS is a closely allied species of smaller
growth, which is rather tender.

N. PSEUDO-NARCISSUS. — This is the common daffodil,
too well known to need description. It sports into many
varieties, and is usually found in a double form. The bulb
only requires to be planted in good soil, and to be undis-
turbed.

N. MINOR. — A pretty little species, with many varieties,
as nanus, pumilus, minimus, all with bright-yellow flowers
and dwarf habit, perfectly hardy, and very ornamental ; na-
tive of Spain, but long an inhabitant of the garden.

N. BICOLOR. — This species differs from the common
daffodil by the difference of color between the cup and
remainder of the flower ; the former being all shades of

THE NARCISSUS. 95

cream or white in different varieties, the latter being yellow.
The stalk is round, while that of the common daffodil is
flat. It is hardy, and only requires simple garden-cul-
ture.

N. MOSCHATTJS. — A pretty species, with whitish flowers ;
in some of the varieties, very drooping ; often known as
white Spanish daffodil. It is hardy, but needs rich soil to
bloom well. Introduced from Spain in 1759.

N. MAJOR. — The species commonly called great yellow
Spanish daffodil has been very showy in our garden for
a number of years. It thrives in a deep sandy loam, and
is a great improvement on the common daffodil.

N. MONTANUS. — This is a beautiful species, with white,
graceful, drooping flowers. It is of rather difficult culture,
needing a deep, rich, moist soil, and a sheltered situation.
It is a native of the Pyrenees, and has long been known as
a garden-flower.

N. JONQUILLA. — This name is from juncus, a diminutive,
signifying " little rush ;" and the species is one of the most
popular of the family. The flowers of all the varieties are
bright yellow, fragrant, and freely produced. All are well
suited for window-plants, as the flowers seldom fail to ex-
pand, and continue a long time in perfection. A bulb-case

96 THE NARCISSUS.

planted with jonquils is a charming winter ornament for
the parlor.

N. TAZETTA. — Under this head we must include all the
varieties of the polyanthus narcissus. The name is a dimin-
utive, from tazza, " a cup ;" and its application is obvious.
The many varieties are all handsome, and only differ in the
colors of the cup and petals, and in sturdiness of growth.
The earliest variety is Gloriosa, white,with yellow cup. Other
fine varieties are JBazelman major, white, yellow cup ; Bazel-
man minor, white and yellow ; Bouquet-triompliant, white,
orange cup ; Grand monarque, white, citron cup ; Grand pri-
mo, white,, citron cup ; Grand soleil d'or, yellow, orange
cup ; Luna, pure white ; Newton, yellow ; Queen of the
Netherlands, very large, white ; Staten- General, lemon and
yellow.

When grown in the open air in New England, these bulbs
are apt to start in the autumn, and have the shoot killed
in the winter. The only remedy is to take them out of the
ground when the foliage has decayed, and keep them in a
cool place till November, when they may be replanted.
They also need a sheltered situation, and to be well covered
with leaves during the winter.

For house-culture they are charming subjects, requiring
the same treatment prescribed for hyacinths.

THE NARCISSUS. 97

N. ITALICUS. — This pretty species and its varieties are
not hardy. The flower is white and very pretty, but is sel-
dom seen in cultivation.

N. PAPFRACEUS. — This species, usually known as the
paper-white narcissus, is very ornamental, but not hardy.
It, however, does well in the greenhouse, and blooms very
early in the winter. The variety called " Double Roman "
has peculiar yellow and white mixed flowers, and blooms
about Christmas. It is very valuable as a parlor-plant
and for early forcing.

There are many other species,* — -Loudon enumerating
about fifty, — and innumerable seedling varieties : all are
worthy of cultivation, and will well repay the care of the
amateur. The fanciful divisions of the family proposed by
some botanists have not been adopted, and all are now
known as narcissus.

* See " Garden Flowers."
7

VII.

THE SNOWDROP, LEtJCOJUM, CROCUS.
THE SNOWDROP.

ONGr before the balmy breezes
of spring remind us that it cannot
be always winter, the snowdrop
wakens from its sleep, and glad-
dens our eyes by its simple beauty and sweet perfume. Later
in the season, when the garden is gay with flowers, it would
be almost unnoticed : but for long, dreary days, it is the
flower of spring ; and, as such, we love and cherish it.

The snowdrop thrives in any good garden-soil enriched
by well-rotted manure or leaf-mould. It will live and bloom
in almost any situation, and will endure a great amount of
hard treatment before it is finally killed : but few flowers
better repay care and good culture. The bulbs should be
planted in September or October, the earlier the better, to
enable them to make good roots and growth before the

THE SNOWDROP. 99

ground freezes up. They should be set about two or three
inches deep, and about an inch apart, in triple lines or in
clumps, as, if planted singly, they are not conspicuous. The
bulbs should not be kept long out of the ground, and are
not benefited by frequent transplanting. Some writers
advise annually replanting them after the foliage decays,
and the removal of all offsets. This may be advantageous
if increase is the object ; but our experience has shown
that it is best to disturb the clumps only when the increase
of offsets renders them too large or crowded, or when the
bulbs grow out of the ground, which they do in a few years
in a border, unless the soil is annually top-dressed.

The flowers of all species appear very early in the season ;
generally, however, in New England, not before the first of
February, even in most favorable situations and in most
sheltered places ; and continue in perfection a very long
time, closing in cloudy, inclement weather, and expanding in
sunshine. By planting in different exposures, a succession
may be had from February to May. The single variety
expands earlier than the double, and is followed by the
large Crimean snowdrop, which is larger than either.
The single snowdrop is a native of England, and is found
in shady woods where there is a rich deposit of vegetable

100 THE LEUCOJUM.

matter or leaf-mould. The double form is a garden variety.
The species are

G. NIVALIS. — The single snowdrop with double variety ;
and

G. PLICATUS. — The Crimean or Russian snowdrop, which
is twice as large as the common species, of the same color,
with broad leaves, and flower-stems nine inches high.

THE LEUCOJUM.

All the species of this plant are commonly known as
snowflakes, and differ but little save in the time of bloom-
ing.

The bulbs are rather large, and only require to be planted
in good garden-soil, where they take care of themselves, and
bloom freely every year. They propagate readily by offsets,
and also ripen seed : almost all are hardy enough to stand
a New-England winter. The species are

L. (ERINOSMA) VERNUM. — A very pretty bulb, much
resembling the snowdrop, but flowering a month later. It
is a little tender, and needs a rather peaty soil to bloom it
successfully. It is a native of Germany and Italy, and has
been in cultivation since 1596.

THE LEUCOJUM. 101

There is a variety sometimes called L. Carpathicum,
which differs from the species in having yellow spots on
the flower instead of green, and in having two flowers on
one stalk.

L. ^ESTIVUM. — This pretty plant is common in gardens.
The flowers are white, with bright-green spots, the foliage
having a yellowish tinge. It is a native of England and
other parts of Europe, and is perfectly hardy in any situa-
tion.

L. pulchellum is only a variety of this species.

The other species of Leucojum have been called Acis
by many botanists, and are readily distingushed from those
above described by the narrowness of the leaves and the
smallness of the flowers. They are by no means as orna-
mental as those above described, and are less hardy.

L. (Acis) AUTUMNALIS. — This is a pretty little species,
with pink flowers, produced in autumn before the leaves.
It is a native of Spain and Algiers, and requires green-
house treatment.

L. (Acis) TRICHOPHYLLUM. — This is a small species,
growing only a few inches high. The flowers are white,
and produced in spring. It requires greenhouse culture
and a sandy soil.

102 THE CROCUS.

L. (Acis) ROSEUM. — The flowers of this species are rose-
color, drooping ; produced, three or four in succession, in
autumn. It requires greenhouse protection, sandy loam,
and to be kept hot and dry when at rest.

A species called grandiflorum has large, white, drooping
flowers.

THE CROCUS.

This pretty spring-flowering plant is common in every
garden ; and like the snowdrop, which it succeeds in its
period of flowering, it will endure a vast amount of ill
treatment, but is none the less benefited by careful culture.

The crocus is primarily divided into two classes, — those
flowering in spring and those blooming in autumn. Of the
number of species, there is great question among botanists.
London enumerates sixteen. Mrs. Loudon, in her charming
work on " Bulbs," speaks of ninety species and varieties.
Sweet, in his "Catalogue of Plants," gives but twenty ; and
the catalogues of modern florists almost ignore the species,
but give us scores of seminal varieties. Indeed, such has
been the improvement in this flower since it came into the
culturist's hands, that the varieties exceed in beauty any of
the species, most of which are now found only in botanic

THE CROCUS. 103

gardens or with amateur collectors, if, indeed, many are
not lost to cultivation. The crocus is a native of Europe
and Middle Asia, but has from a very early period been
domesticated in the garden.

The culture is only to plant them in a rich, light, damp
soil, but where no water will stand around the bulbs, and
leave them to take care of themselves. They are, however,
benefited by an annual top-dressing of well-rotted manure.

The bulbs should be planted three inches deep, and
should not be disturbed oftener than once in three or four
years, and then only if they are growing out of the ground.

When it is necessary to remove them, it should be done
as soon as the foliage dies ; and the bulbs should be imme-
diately replanted. There are very few hardy bulbs that are
improved by the annual drying and transplanting process.

A bed of crocus does not arrive at its full beauty until
the second or third year after planting ; and, after that, it
will continue to improve for many years, if the bulbs were
not originally planted too close together, and thus become
crowded. The proper distance to plant the bulbs is one
inch apart each way. It is to be remembered, however,
that the crocus grows and increases upwards, and not
laterally.

104 THE CROCUS.

*
Crocus do not thrive well under the shade of trees, as

they do not seem to mature their foliage before the sunlight
is shut off from them.

Imported bulbs should be planted as soon as possible in
the autumn ; the earlier the better.

There is no better plant for clumps, lines, masses, or
even whole beds, for the early spring-garden ; and very
striking effects may be produced by judicious planting.
With this flower, as with most others, there is nothing
gained by mixing varieties or colors : each color should be
in a mass or line by itself, and should contrast strongly with
those on either side. We clip the following directions for
planting beds from an article in an English magazine : —

u Very fine beds may be formed by planting a double row
of Mont Blanc, white, six inches from the edge ; six inches
from that, again, a double row of Prince Albert, blue ; then,
at a like distance, Dutch crocus, yellow ; a fourth, of La
Hajesteuse, striped ; a fifth, of Othello, dark violet ; and
Giant Yellow in the centre. This will be splendid for a
circular bed seven feet across. For a border six feet
wide, we have the first row six inches from the edge ; a
double one, white, Queen Victoria: the others being, second,
Cloth of Gold, yellow ; third, Garibaldi, purple ; fourth,

THE CROCUS. 105

Aletta Wilheimena, white, flamed with violet ; fifth, New Large
Yellow ; sixth, Vulcan, deep purple. The second row is
one foot from the first, and so on ; early tulips being planted
between each. Again : we have a border twelve feet wide,
to be planted as follows, in twenty-four rows : Queen Vic-
toria, white ; Captain Cook, purple ; Cloth of Gold, yellow ;
Argus, violet, white margin ; David fiizzio, dark purple ;
Sulphureus, brimstone-yellow ; Mont Blanc, white ; Prince
Albert, purple ; Large Yellow ; Cloth of Silver, white, pur-
ple stripes ; Ne Plus Ultra, blue, tipped with white ; Yellow
Dutch ; Princess of Wales, dark purple ; Caroline Chisholm,
white ; New Large Yellow ; Albion, blue, white-and-blue
stripes ; Van Speyk, feathered, blue and white ; Yellow
Dutch ; Lord Raglan, dark blue ; Diana, white ; Cloth of
Gold / Lilaceus superbus, light violet, white margin ; Versi-
color, white, purple veins ; Large Yellow ; Grande Vedette"
If, after blooming, the crocus-bed is wanted for other
flowers, the bulbs may be removed in clumps, with balls of
earth, to a reserve garden, after blooming, and, in autumn,
be retransplanted to their original position. A good plan,
however, is to plant the crocus in double rows ; the first,
six inches from the edge of the border, and the next a foot
from the edge, and so on ; which leaves space for early

106 THE CROCUS.

tulips, which are done flowering in time to have their
places supplied by bedding-plants: and thus the crocuses
are not disturbed, and their foliage renders the tulips more
effective.

For house-culture the crocus is well adapted, and does
well grown in earth or water : bloomed in a pan of white
sand, the yellow and purple varieties are very pretty.

In England, there are glasses made especially for crocus
culture ; but we do not remember to have seen them in this
country.

Crocus, snowdrops, and similar bulbs, may be had in
bloom about Christmas by taking up the most promising
clumps from the border about the last of October, and pot-
ting them in small pots, in leaf-mould. Water them, and
keep them in a cold frame till well established ; then place
them in a cool greenhouse, on shelves near the glass, where
they can have plenty of air in pleasant weather. Water
them well ; and, about the last of November, remove them
to a light, airy shelf in a greenhouse, where the thermome-
ter registers 50° at night. If they do not advance suf-
ciently rapidly, increase the heat ; but always bear in mind
that air and light, and not too high a temperature, are
the conditions of success. Crocus are easily raised from

THE CROCUS. 107

seed, which ripens freely. The seeds should be gathered
just before the pods burst, kept about a month in the pods,
and then be sown in drills in the garden. If the soil is
rich (and it cannot be too rich), many will bloom the third
year. The crocus seeds under ground ; the pods coming
to the surface only when the seeds are ripe.

Some of the species which are the parents of the garden
varieties are

C. biflorus. — This species, commonly known as the
Scotch (though why would be difficult to say) or twin-
flowering crocus, is a native of the Crimea, and is very
hardy, and early flowering. It will grow with little care,
but is impatient of removal. The flowers are twin ; of a
white, striped with purple ; and remain long in perfection.

C. vernus. — This is the wild English species, though
probably only naturalized, and not indigenous. The flower
is pale lilac, varying to white and purple, but never yellow.
It ripens seed freely.

C. versicolor. — This is the parent of many of the fine
seedling varieties. The flower is purple and white, and
very fragrant.

C. Susianus. — The cloth-of-gold crocus has been an
inhabitant of the garden for many hundred years. The

108 THE CROCUS.

flowers are yellow inside, with dark lines on the outer part
of the petals : they expand early in spring, after the Scotch
crocus, and before the larger-flowered varieties. It is a
native of Southern Europe.

G. luteus. — This is the well-known large yellow crocus,
so effective from its brilliant color on sunny days in spring.
It is a native of the Levant, but has been in cultivation
since 1620.

In England, this species, as indeed all yellow crocus, is
attacked by sparrows, who, in a pure spirit of mischief, tear
the flowers to pieces, and spoil the beauty of the bed. In
this country, however, we experience little trouble from
this cause. There are many other species, among which
we may mention C. minimus, reticulatus, lagenceflorus,
sulphureus, suavolens, Imperati, and the autumn-flowering
species, sativus, or saffron crocus, producing the saffron of
commerce, which is the stigma of the flower ; G. serotinus,
speciosus, and autumnalis, which differ from the spring-
blooming species in the season of flowering, and require the
same general culture.

, EING- wholly destitute of the delicate grace
of many bulbs, the tulip is ever attractive
from its beauty, and brilliancy of color, and
delicate markings. Probably no flower was
ever a subject of commercial speculation, or rather gam-
bling, to such an extent ; and the history of the " Tulipo-
mania " in the latter part of the sixteenth and early part of
the seventeenth centuries, when as much as five hundred
pounds were paid for a single bulb, is a most readable
chapter o£ extravagant delusion. Although the mania has
long since been seen in its true light, yet, even at the pres-
ent time, larger sums are paid for tulips than for any other

109

110 THE TULIP.

bulb ; and the raiser of a new and really fine tulip is sure
to find a profit in the operation.

All our garden tulips, that is, " show varieties," are the
offspring of T. Gesneriana. The other species, however,
are very curious, and some very beautiful, and are well
worthy of a place in the garden.

While volumes have been written upon the culture of the
tulip, its successful growth is by no means difficult. The
beds are usually prepared four feet wide, and excavated
about thirty inches deep : about six inches of well-rotted
horse or sheep dung is placed in the bottom, and the bed
filled up, about four inches above the former level, with
light rich soil. In this the bulbs are planted in October,
six inches from each other, and so deep that the point
of the bulb is two inches below the surface ; the holes
being made with a common dibble, and filled in with fine
sand, in which the bulb is to be planted.

The bulbs should be set with reference to their habit ; the
tall growers in the middle, and those of lower growth on
the outside. During winter, the bed should be covered
with a layer of coarse litter or tan, to protect the bulbs
from severe frost. This should be removed in early spring,
and the surface of the ground gently stirred. As the

THE TULIP. Ill

plants come into bloom, they should be protected by an
awning, to preserve them longer in perfection. After the
flowers have faded, the awning should be removed, and
the plants allowed to ripen the foliage. When this is done,
the bulbs should be taken up carefully, dried, and kept in a
dry, cool place until the season for planting again arrives.
Tulips will, however, grow in any deep, rich, light soil.
They are very impatient of standing water, and do not im-
prove by being left in. the ground from year to year :
indeed, if not annually taken up, they " run out," to use
the gardener's term ; that is, the choicer and more delicate
varieties die out, and the stronger and coarser revert to
the old red color. Much that is curious might be written
upon the disappointed hopes of the raisers of seedling tu-
lips ; for the chances of success are very small, and those of
failure very great. Seedlings bloom in about five years,
and the modes taken to make them " break " are very curi-
ous. Tulips are divided into three classes, — bizarres, by-
bloemens, and roses. In the former, the ground-color is
yellow ; and in the two latter, white. A chief point of per-
fection is the purity of this ground-color : if at all marked
or cloudy, the flower is poor. The base of the flower
inside should be clear ; that is, none of the marking should

112 THE TULIP.

run down to the bottom of the cup. The stamens should
also be white or yellow, according to the class.

Each class is further divided, as regards marking, into
ei flamed and feathered." If the marking of the flower is
confined to the edge of the petals, it is feathered ; but, if a
dark broad stripe runs down the centre, it is flamed. In
every case, the colors must be well defined.

THE PROPERTIES OP A GOOD TULIP, AS A FLORIST'S
FLOWER, ARE,

1. The cup should form, when quite expanded, from half
to a third of a hollow ball. To do this, the petals must be
six in number, broad at the ends, smooth at the edges ; and
the divisions between the petals must scarcely show an
indenture.

2. The three inner petals should set close to the three
outer ones ; and the whole should be broad enough to allow
of the fullest expansion without quartering, as it is called ;
that is, exhibiting any vacancy between the petals.

3. The petals should be thick, smooth, and stiff", and
keep their form well.

4. The ground should be clear and distinct, whether

THE TULIP. 113

white or yellow. The least stain, even at the lower
end of the petal, would render a tulip comparatively value-
less.

5. Roses, bybloemens, and bizarres are the three classes
into which tulips are now divided. The first have a white
ground, and crimson or pink or scarlet marks ; the second
have white grounds, and purple, lilac, or black marks ; and
the last have yellow grounds, with any colored marks.

6. Whatever be the disposition of colors, or marks, upon
a tulip, all the six petals should be marked alike, and be,
therefore, perfectly uniform.

7. The feathered flowers should have an even, close
feathering all round ; and whether narrow or wide, light or
heavy, should reach far enough round the petals to form,
when they are expanded, an unbroken edging all round.

8. If the flower have any marking besides the feathering
at the edge, it should be a beam, or bold mark down the
centre, but not reaching the bottom, or near the bottom, of
the cup : the mark, or beam, must be similar in all the six
petals.

9. Flowers not feathered, and with flame only, must
have no marks on the edges of the flowers. None of the
color must break through to the edge. The color may be

8

114 THE TULIP.

disposed in any form, so that it be perfectly uniform in all
the petals, and does not go too near the bottom.

10. The color, whatever it may be, must be dense and
decided. Whether it be delicate and light, or bright or
dark, it must be distinct in its outline, and not shaded or
flushed or broken.

1 1 . The height should be eighteen to thirty-six inches :
the former is right for the outside row in a bed, and the
latter is right for the highest row.

12. The purity of the white and the brightness of the
yellow should be permanent ; that is to say, should stand
until the petals actually fall.

While a bed of choice tulips may be very expensive, a
fine show may be made with but a trifling outlay. The
following lists are given by the best English authority, —
the one, dividing the bulbs into classes ; the other, arran-
ging them according to color.

Those mentioned in the following list are not expensive,
and are of vigorous constitution.

BIZARRES.

Albion, Bizarre, Cato, Crusader, Duke of Devonshire,
Duke of Sutherland, Dr. Homer, Fabius, Garrick, Ibra-

THE TULIP. 115

him Pacha, Lord Raglan, Marshal Soult, Mr. F. Perkins,
Omar Pacha, Pilot, Polyphemus, Royal Sovereign, Vivid.

BYBLOEMENS.

Alexander Magnus, Addison, Bloemast, Chellaston Beau-
ty, David, Earl of Haddington, General Bamoselde, George
Glenny, Grace Darling, Lord Denman, Maid of Orleans,
Queen of Violets, Triomphe de Lisle, Victoria Regina.

ROSES.

Aglaia, Baron Gesdoff, Countess of Wilton, Camise de
Croix, Claudiana, Duchess of Kent, La Belle Nannette,
Lady Stanley, Madame Vestris, Naomi, Undine, Ponceau de
tres blanc, Triomphe Royal.

Many of the self or one-colored tulips are very showy in
masses ; and the double varieties, if of good color, are very
effective. The parrot-tulips are hybrids between T. cornuta
and T. sylvestris, and are well worthy a place in the garden.

The charming early Due Van Thol, both in the single and
double state, is an indispensable ornament of the early
spring-border.

116 THE TULIP.

Some of the smaller early tulips force well in sand and
earth, requiring the treatment already prescribed for narcis-
sus and hyacinths. We have in our garden a charming
little tulip of a vivid yellow, deliciously fragrant, and pro-
ducing two or three flowers on a stem, which we received
from Holland a few years since under the name of T.
fragrans. It is perfectly hardy, flowers freely, and remains
long in perfection.

The following list will be found useful to those who plant
tulips for general eflect of color : —

YELLOW.

Canary Bird. — Rich pure yellow ; nine inches high.
Potlebakker Yellow. — Yellow self; nine to twelve inches.
Due Van Thol. — Yellow, early, and dwarf ; four to six
inches.

Yellow Prince. — A good yellow ; nine inches.
Thomas Moore. — Orange, distinct ; nine inches.

WHITES.

Potlebalcker. — White, very fine ; nine to twelve inches.
Luna. — A fine variety.

THE TULIP. 117

Queen Victoria. — Small, fine form, white and crimson ;
nine inches.

Jagt Van Delft. — White self, fine form ; nine inches.
La Laitere. — White, with water-blue tint ; nine inches.

SCARLET.

Typlion. — Crimson-scarlet, fine ; nine inches.

Due Van Thol. — Scarlet ; six inches.

Cramoisi fidele. — Intense scarlet.

Gouleur Cramoisie. — Crimson-scarlet.

Vermilion brillant. — The best scarlet ; six to nine
inches.

La Belle Alliance. — Rich crimson-scarlet; six to nine
inches.

BLUE SHADES.

Florida. — Purplish violet ; nine inches.
Berangaria. — Purple, with a little mauve.
Archas. — Violet-purple, lilac belt.
Caiman. — Violet or puce, lilac margin.
La Plaisante. — Violet, slight rosy tint.
Wouverman. — Violet-purple.

118 THE TULIP.

FEATHERED, STRIPED, AND TINTED.

Due Van Thol. — Red, orange border, early ; four to six
inches.

Keizerkroon. — Yellow ground, flaked with vivid scarlet.

Standard Royal. — White ground, flaked with carmine.

Alida Marie. — White tipped, and flaked with cerise ;
very fine.

Bride of Haarlem. — White, bordered with crimson.

Eosa Mundi. — White-shaded rose.

Hose Luisante. — Rosy crimson, peach edges.

Due Major. — Rich red, margin orange-yellow.

Hose Tendre. — White feathered, and striped with crimson.

Roi Pepin. — White striped, and flaked with crimson.

Ma Plus Aimable. — Bronzy red, flaked with orange.

Standard of Gold. — Yellow, crimson tip.

DOUBLE TULIPS.

Tournesol. — Scarlet and yellow.
Yellow Rose. — Yellow.
La Candeur. — The best white.
Rex Rubrorum. — Crimson-scarlet.

THE TULIP. 119

Imperator Rubrorum. — Crimson-scarlet.
Peony Gold. — Golden-yellow, feathered with crimson.
Couronne Pourpre. — Rich crimson.
Mariage de ma Fille. — White-striped, violet-rose.
Overwinner. — White, barred and feathered, with violet-
purple.

Gloria Solis. — Crimson, yellow border.
Due Van Tliol. — Red and yellow.

Among the species of tulips we may enumerate

T. lifiora. — The smallest of the genus, with white flowers
and yellow centre ; a native of Russia, and perfectly hardy.

T. tricolor. — A fine species, with white flowers, tinged
with green and yellow. Native of the Altai Mountains.

T. Celsiana. — A handsome species, with yellow flowers.
Native of Siberia.

T. sylvestris. — A common yellow species, with drooping,
fragrant flowers. A native of France.

T. oculis solis. — A fine species, nearly allied to T. Ges-
neriana, but easily distinguished by the black centre. A
native of Italy and France.

T. suavolens. — This is the well-known Due Van Thol
tulip, so pretty and fragrant in early spring. There are

120 THE IRIS.

many varieties, all ornamental in the bulb-border. These
tulips are better adapted for forcing than any other species.
T. cornuta. — This is a very hardy species, more curious
than beautiful. A native of the Levant, and only requir-
ing to be planted in the border, where it will care for itself.

THE IRIS.

All the plants of this family are ornamental in flower,
and of very easy culture. They are divided into two classes,
— those with bulbous and those with tuberous roots. The
latter will thrive in any common garden-soil, and only need
the usual treatment given hardy, herbaceous plants ; that
is, slight annual manuring when the border is dug in the
spring, occasional resetting when the clumps grow out of
the ground, and division when the clumps become too
large. The former are generally hardy, and should be
planted in October, in a light, rich soil, and protected by
litter thrown over the bed in the winter. The bulbs should
be set about three inches deep, and, every third year, should
be taken up, and replanted ; as, the new bulb forming under
the old, the bulbs grow down, bury themselves, and are
lost. They may be transplanted as soon as the foliage

THE IRIS. 121

decays, and are freely propagated by seeds and by
offsets.

The following is a select list of the tuberous varieties,
mostly hybrids from /. Germanica, which may prove valu-
able in making a selection, as the number of varieties now
in florists' catalogues sadly puzzle the amateur : —

Nuncio. — Bright yellow, and reddish purple.

Archento. — Bright yellow, and black.

Gysels. — Blue and white, mottled.

Ariadne. — Purple and white.

Ahasuerus. — Light and dark purple.

Gonzales. — Straw, purple, and white.

Proserpine. — Yellow and chocolate.

Eeticulata. — White and purple.

Azurea. — Clear blue.

Eeticulata superba. — White, purple stripes.

Adonis. — Straw, purple, and white.

Nationale. — Deep purple.

Aurea reticulata. — Yellow, purple, and chocolate.

Duchesse de Nemours. — Purple and pearl-color.

Ant Indus. — Yellow and purple.

Spectabilis. — Yellow and brownish purple.

122 THE IRIS.

Salimon. — Yellow, buff, and imperial purple.

Aurea. — Light yellow.

Julia Grisi. — Purple and pearl.

Louis Van Houtte. — Deep purple.

Speciosa. — Deep purple.

Bougerie. — Purple.

Psyche. — Purple and white.

Chloris. — Mottled, purple and white.

Arlequin melanais. — Purple and white.

Comelie. — Purple and straw-color.

Harus. — Purple, and brownish white.

Album. — White, purple, and brown.

Murito. — Straw-color and white.

Alvarez. — Straw-color and purple.

Van Geertii. — Purple and brown.

La Tendre. — Yellow, brownish purple.

Vidorie. — Lemon-color.

Morpheus. — Purple and white, veined.

Agatha. — Dark purple.

Qelestina. — Blue.

Ignacita. — Purple and white.

Reticulata alba. — White, blue-veined.

Fleur de Marie. — Purple and white.

THE IRIS. 123

Calypso. — Purple, white, and blue.

Augustissima. — Orange and brown.

Apollo. — Deep purple and white.

A collection of these tuberous species is, in the latter part
of June, one of the most effective sights in a garden. They do
well, either in small clumps or in masses ; and, when the
colors are well combined, the effect of large beds is very fine.

Seed is freely produced, and is sown to raise new varie-
ties. The older sorts are propagated by division of the
roots in early spring, or when they have made their growth
in July.

In addition to the varieties above mentioned, there are
hundreds of others of the same class, flowering from the
first of June until the last of July, in some of the many
varieties.

There is also a class of spring-blooming species, all
of dwarf growth, and admirably suited for the edging of
spring-borders. The colors of most of these are light or
dark blue : the species all bloom freely, and are very hardy,
enduring ill treatment and careless planting, and flourishing
and blooming in every soil and situation. They seldom
ripen seed, but propagate very freely by division of the
roots. Indeed, the clumps often increase so fast as to ren-

124 THE IRIS.

der division necessary every two years. The foliage is
good, and remains green until autumn, though all the
growth is made in early spring. Among these early-bloom-
ing species we may mention

J. cristata. — Flowers pale blue in May ; three inches
high.

I. pumila. — Flowers dark blue or white ; three inches
high.

/. lutescens. — Flowers yellowish white ; six inches high.

We have in our garden a most beautiful variety of I.
pumila, which blooms rather later than the species, and
has dark-purple flowers, with a rich velvety lustre, with
shadings of orange-yellow.

The species of bulbous iris most commonly grown are

/. Xipliium. — This species, commonly called the Spanish
iris, and often found in the shops under the name of Iris
Hispanica, is perfectly hardy in our gardens. The flowers
are very handsome, and of various colors, fragrant, and
freely produced. This species propagates itself readily by
offsets : it also ripens seed in abundance, and hybridizes
freely with the English iris. Indeed, the florists' catalogues
give us hundreds of hybrid seedlings, which are indiscrimi-
nately called English or Spanish iris.

THE IRIS. 125

I. Xiphiodes. — The bulbs of this species much resemble
the last ; but they are larger and rounder. The flower is
large, and very handsome. The plant is of stout habit.
Although called the English iris, and sold under the name
of Iris Angelica, the plant is a native of the Pyrenees ; but
it has been in cultivation from a very early period. It
propagates very slowly from offsets, but produces seed
freely ; and thus the varieties are very numerous. The
species and all varieties are perfectly hardy.

/. Liisitanica. — This fine species is somewhat rare, and
less hardy than the two last mentioned. The flowers are
yellow, buff, and purple, and very handsome. The culture
is simple, and similar to the last : only a slight winter pro-
tection should be given.

/. Persica. — This is a little gem of a flower, perfectly
hardy, and coming into bloom with the early crocus.
We can hardly describe in words its delicate and yet
striking beauty, nor do justice to the pleasing contrasts
of color which it exhibits. The plant is a native of
Persia, and yet endures our severest winters without
protection.

/. tuberosa. — The snake's-head iris is a fine species,
with rich, velvety flowers. It is a native of the Levant, but

126 THE IBIS'

will generally endure our winters. The flowers are pro-
duced in May.

I. Susiana. — This species, like the last, has roots rather
tuberous than bulbous. The flowers are magnificent, and,
under careful culture, freely produced. In the greenhouse,
it blooms well ; and it is hardy enough to survive our
winters, but must be taken up as soon as the foliage de-
cays, as, if left in the ground, it makes a very early autumn
growth, which is killed by the winter, and the bulb perishes.
The soil for this species should be rather sandy.

Besides these, there are some fifty species of iris ; and we
know of no family of which all the species are so ornamen-
tal.* The only culture the iris requires in the garden is to
plant it like a tulip, and, after the leaves die, to take it up,
as most of the bulbous species slowly sink into the ground
by the production of new bulbs, bury themselves, and
are lost. This is not, however, the case with I. Susiana
and the tuberous species. Most of the species may be
successfully forced, as prescribed for hyacinths, either in
earth or water.

The following are the characteristics of a good iris : —

This flower is composed of three principal and three
secondary petals, or divisions. The three principal fall
* See " Garden Flowers."

THE IRIS. 127

down, and the others stand up. A glance at many of the
families will soon decide a very important property in some,
and deficiency in others, — the breadth of the three prin-
cipal petals. It will occur to the untaught child, that the
flower which presents the largest portion of rich surface is
the best. All who have grown the common iris know it has
narrow, mean-looking petals : but the kind which has been
propagated in England has a broad, rich-looking petal ; and
upon this feature does the beauty of the iris turn.

The three principal divisions, or petals, should be broad
enough to touch each other, and form an arch or graceful
curve, but described as one-third of a hollow ball or
reversed cup, level at the lower edge by reason of the
bluntness of the three petals at the outer end, which should
form a circular outline on looking down upon them. The
three smaller petals should stand up, and be perfectly clear
of the three that fall down.

The three lower petals should be of a rich velvety tex-
ture, and be thick, smooth on the edges, firm in their places ;
and whether self-colored, striped, mottled, shaded, or spot-
ted, the color should be well defined.

The three upper ones should be of a different color, and
of a smooth or enamel kind of texture : the greater the

128 THE MOREA.

contrast of color, the better. The iris is a dwarf-plant ; and
though three petals fall down and three stand up, and the
fall of the broad petals is too sudden, and, on looking down
on them, they hardly form any recognizable outline, it is
capable of being produced with a fall not so sudden, and a
curve perfectly graceful ; and the great advantage of this
^will be, that the entire surface may be seen at once, instead
of a portion only.

The flowers should open but one at a time, that the
beauty of the plant may be prolonged. The flower should
be eighteen inches from the ground, and, when full grown
and expanded, be four inches across.

THE MOREA.

This family was separated from Iris on account of the
nature of the bulb, which much resembles a corm. The
flowers are very brilliant, but fugitive. The family is not
hardy ; but many of the species do well in pots. The soil
should be a sandy loam, and the plants require frequent
syringings to keep them free from red spider. They are
mostly natives of the Cape of Good Hope ; and flower from
April to July, according to the species. The bulbs do not

THE HERBERTIA. — THE CYPELLA. 129

bury themselves like an iris, but produce the new bulb on
the top of the old, like a crocus : so they may be planted
deeper than iris.

M. sisyrinchium is a native of Spain, and might prove
hardy : the flower is very handsome, deep blue, white, and
yellow.

Loudon enumerates some twenty-five species, some of
which are very handsome.

Some of the finest species are M. sisyrinchium, M. Teno-
reana, white-and-blue flowers ; M. ciliata, yellow flowers ;
M. larbigera, crimson and yellow ; M. lurida, dark red ;
M. edulis, lilac ; M. angusta, white and purple.

THE HERBERTIA.

This beautiful and rare bulb is a native of South America,
near the Straits of Magellan. It should be grown in pots,
in a compost of loam, peat, and sand. The flowers some-
what resemble an iris, and are blue, white, and pink. The
chief species is H. pulcJiella. H. pusilla has striped flowers.

THE CYPELLA.

A very remarkably handsome bulb, of easy growth in
the greenhouse. The flowers are yellow, with a dark stripe
down each petal.

130 THE PHALOCALLIS. — THE VIEUSSEUXIA.

Our plants thrived well, planted in sandy loam, when im-
ported in autumn ; and bloomed freely in spring, each bulb
giving many flowers. The species is C. Herbertii.

THE PHALOCALLIS,

Another species of Cypella, often appears in nurserymen's
catalogues as C. plumbed, which should be P. plumbea. It
is a beautiful plant, with evergreen leaves, and fugitive lead-
color and yellow flowers, of which but one is produced from
the bulb ; the individual flowers, with every care, lasting
hardly a day. We have bloomed this plant most success-
fully in a compost of loam and sand. It usually blooms in
midsummer. The plant is a native of Mexico, and not
very common.

THE VIEUSSEUXIA.

These plants were formerly classed as Iris, and are
usually known as Peacock Iris.

They are all Cape bulbs, with slender, iridaceous foliage,
and very brilliant flowers.

They should be potted in peat-loam and sand, about an
inch deep, in autumn, and grown in an airy situation, with

THE VIEUSSEUXIA.

131

frequent syringings to prevent the attacks of the red spider.
The flowers will appear in spring and summer. After bloom-
ing, the bulbs should be gradually ripened, and then kept
dry till the season for replanting arrives.

The most common species is F. glaucopis, having bril-
liant white-and-blue flowers. There are also species with
yellow, red, and purple flowers ; but they are by no means
common.

The flowers of all the species are produced singly, and
are very transient.

IX.

THE KANUNCULUS AND ANEMONE.

LTHOUG-H florists' flowers, of
which the subjects of our pres-
ent chapter are familiar exam-
ples, are seldom grown 'to perfec-
tion in this country, yet they must receive a passing word.

This neglect is especially noticeable in regard to both the
ranunculus and anemone, as they can only be grown with
frame protection in New England, and are not hardy enough
to stand the winter unprotected.

We have many species of both of these plants, which are
well known, and valuable ornaments of our gardens, woods,
and fields : but the subject of the present volume confines us
to the consideration of the tuberous Ranunculus Asiaticus
and its varieties, and Anemone coronaria and A. hortensis;
132

THE RANUNCULUS. 133

these being the species from which the many varieties of
garden ranunculus and anemone have been derived.

THE RANUNCULUS.

It has always been a question with florists as to what soil
is best suited to this plant. While any good, light soil will
bloom the ranunculus, care in the preparation of a suitable
bed is rewarded by increased size and beauty of flower,
both in form, color, and substance.

A compost which is sure to grow them well may be thus
prepared : Cut from a good loamy pasture the surface sods,
three inches thick : let these be piled one on another in
ridges for a year, and then sliced down with a sharp spade
to form a crumbly mass. Turn this over carefully, and
pick out all wire- worms, grubs, and insects. Then pile it all
into a heap again, and let it remain another year ; by which
time, all the grass and herbage will have resolved itself into
vegetable mould. At the end of the second year, turn it
over again, and again pick out any worms or grubs as
before. In a soil of this nature which is now ready for
use, the ranunculus will grow well.

The ranunculus likes a stifler soil than the anemone, and
is very impatient of drought.

134 THE RANUNCULUS.

Many florists use stimulating manures ; but their effect is
bad on the tubers, causing rotting and disease, though often
the size of the flower is increased.

In forming beds, it is frequently the practice to place a
layer of well-rotted cow-dung about nine inches below the
surface, which operates in the twofold service of retaining
moistur eand supplying nourishment.

The compost given above will, however, grow the tubers
well, and give satisfactory bloom, without any manure.
The bed should be dug out about a foot deep, and filled in
with the compost, and the tubers be planted two inches
deep in November, the earth being pressed close around
them. On the approach of very frosty weather, the bed
should be covered with a frame filled with oak-leaves, and
this again with boards, to exclude the frost. Early in the
spring, remove the frame, and the plants will soon appear.
Keep them clear of weeds, and fork the earth loosely around
them, watering them thoroughly if there should be a season
of drought. As they come into bloom, and begin to color,
shade them from the sun by an awning. When the flowers
have faded, and the foliage turned yellow, take up the tubers,
and keep them in a cool place until the return of the plant-
ing season.

THE RANUNCULUS. 135

The roots may be kept over the winter, and planted in the
spring, as they are possessed of great vitality ; but they often,
become too dry, and more frequently mould.

No plant is more easily increased by seed, which may be
sown in February in light soil, in boxes, in the greenhouse,
where it will vegetate freely in about a month ; but none of
the seedlings will be like the parent plant or like each
other. The young tubers should be ripened off in July ; and,
treated like old plants, will flower the next June.

The properties of a good ranunculus, as laid down by the
best authorities, are, — the stem should be upright, eight to
twelve inches high, and strong enough to support the flower.
The form of the flower should be hemispherical, not less
than two inches in diameter, consisting of numerous petals,
gradually diminishing in size to the centre, lying over each
other so as neither to be too close nor too much separated,
but having more of a perpendicular than horizontal direc-
tion, in order to display the colors with better effect. The
petals should be broad, with entire, well-rounded edges ; the
colors dark, clear, rich, or brilliant, either of one color, or
variously diversified on a ground of cinerous white, prim-
rose-yellow, or flame-color, or diversified with elegant
stripes, spots, or mottling.

136 THE RANUNCULUS.

The ranunculus may be forced by selecting tubers which
•have been kept several months over the season of planting,
as these are more readily excited. Plant these in pots
about the first of August ; grow them in a cold frame with
plenty of air, light, and water ; and, by bringing them into the
greenhouse at different times, a bloom may be kept up from
October to February.

This plant will well repay careful culture, and does not
merit the neglect with which it has been treated in this
country.

As we have said, there are many hundred varieties : of
these, the following are good : —

Aigle noir. — Black.

Commodore Napier. — Yellow.

Cramoisi a cceur vert.

Hortense.

Jaune panachee.

Noir pourpre. — Black.

Hercules. — White.

Merveilleuse. — Yellow.

Scarlet Roman.

A collection of a hundred varieties ordered from any
Dutch florist would probably contain many very fine kinds.

THE ANEMONE. 137

THE ANEMONE.

The tubers should be planted late in October, in a bed
prepared by removing the old soil to the depth of sixteen or
eighteen inches. If the situation is cold and wet, drain it
well, and do not go so deep ; if dry and warm, the bed may
be made deeper. Fill in four to six inches of cow-drop-
pings, such as may be gathered in the pastures. Upon this,
place as much good fresh earth as will raise the beds to
their former level, or a little higher, to allow for settling.
On the approach of very frosty weather, cover with a
frame, and exclude the frost. In fine, the treatment is
exactly that prescribed for the ranunculus.

Any common, moderately light soil suits the anemone : a
wet, stiff soil rots the roots in winter.

If necessary to make a soil, take maiden-loam from the
surface of a pasture, turf and all : to every load of this
add one of cow-dung, and half a load of clean, sharp, fresh
sand. Form this into a ridge, and let it remain a year ;
turning it, and picking out insects, every two months. A
very good soil may be made of two parts garden-loam, one
part well-rotted cow-dung, and one-half part sharp sand.

The anemone is somewhat more hardy than the ranun-

138 THE ANEMONE.

culus ; but the roots will not bear being long kept out of the
ground.

They are easily forced, and may be had in bloom any
month in the year by a series of plantings.

Both the ranunculus and anemone are propagated, to pre-
serve varieties, by division ; to produce new varieties, by
seed.

Every part of the crown, or root, which has a bud, will
make a plant ; but it is not well to divide anemones too
much, as they flower very weak if too small. The usual
colors of anemones are red, white, and blue ; and the flow-
ers are single, semi-double, and double.

The raising of seedlings may be done as prescribed for
ranunculus, the seed being saved from the best single and
semi-double flowers.

The properties of a good single anemone are, —

The stem strong, elastic, and erect, not less than nine
inches high ; the flower at least two inches and a half in
diameter, consisting of large, substantial, well-rounded
petals, at first horizontally extended, and then turning a
little upwards, so as to form a broad, shallow cup ; the color
clear and distinct when variegated in the same flower, or
brilliant and striking if it consists of but one color.

THE ANEMONE.

139

A double anemone should have the outer petals quite
flat, the second series a little shorter, the third shorter still ;
and so on till the centre is quite full, when the whole
should form a rather flat hemisphere. Every double flower
should be of one full color.

Of anemones, there are about twenty species with tuber-
ous roots, and some forty herbaceous species. Many of
these are very fine : among which we may mention the
pretty wood-anemone (A. nemorosa) and the double variety ;
A. Appenina, with blue flowers ; A. narcissiflora ; A. Japon-

140 THE ANEMONE.

ica, and the white variety ; A. pusatilla, the well-known
Pasque flower ; and A. vernalis.

Of the varieties of A. coronaria and hortensis, the follow-
ing are good : —
Shakspeare, blue.
Azur incomparable, blue.
Cramoisi royal, scarlet.
Feu superbe, scarlet.
Grandeur Merveille, rose and white.
High Admiral, scarlet.
Josephine, scarlet.

Ornement de la Nature, blue, fine.

/
L' Eclair, scarlet.

Queen of the Netherlands, white and rose.
Hose surpassante, bright rose.
Salvator, orange.

X.

THE OXALIS, JXIA, BABIANA, SPARAXIS, TRITONIA,
GEISSORHIZA.

HILE many of the bulbs
of which we have hithero
spoken are suitable for
garden -culture, the sub-
jects of our present chapter thrive only in the greenhouse.
In England, however, they are planted in the open border,
and survive in sheltered situations with little protection.
But the flowers of all are very delicate, and liable to be
injured by storms or changeable weather : therefore they are
seen to much better advantage under glass, where, if well
cared for, they make a splendid display. The culture of all
the species mentioned in this chapter is the same. All
bloom in early spring ; though many of the oxalis may be

141

142 THE OXALIS.

had in flower at any season by forcing, and some few
species naturally bloom in summer or early autumn.

In potting these bulbs, and starting them into growth,
one of the primary rules of bulb-culture must be observed ;
that is, when the base of the bulb swells, or young roots
begin to protrude, the bulb should be potted and watered.
With a family so large as the oxalis, it is impossible to
prescribe any general rule for potting ; though most of the
species cultivated in our greenhouses require only the ordi-
nary treatment of Cape bulbs, and, with the other subjects
of this chapter, — ixias, babianas, tritonias, and other
Cape bulbs of like nature, — need only to be potted in Octo-
ber, in rich, light, sandy loam, in well-drained pots. After
potting, the bulbs should have a gentle watering, and be kept
in a cool, shady, airy place until they begin to grow : they
should then be removed to a light, airy shelf, and be grown
near the glass all winter, in full sunshine, to perfect a short,
sturdy growth. Water should be freely supplied with the
syringe to destroy red spider, with whom many of these
plants are especial favorites. As soon as the flower-stem
appears, a few waterings of weak liquid manure will be
found beneficial.

When the blossoms begin to expand, the pots may be

THE OXALIS. 143

removed to a less sunny and cooler situation, that the
flowers may longer remain in perfection. Many species
will need to have the flower-stems, and often the foliage,
tied up to neat stakes, in order better to display the full
beauty of the blossom. When the bloom is over, the foliage
should be gradually ripened ; and, when half the leaf has
turned yellow, the pots should be turned on their sides, and
the bulbs allowed to remain dry until the season for replant-
ing. Mice are very fond of some of these bulbs, and care
must be taken to put them to rest in a place not disturbed
by their ravages.

THE OXALIS.

This family is very numerous ; about one hundred species
being enumerated. The mode of growth is very different,
some being true bulbs, and thus coming immediately within
the scope of our volume ; while others have tuberous, or rath-
er thickened, fleshy roots, and are thus only mentioned here
on the score of relationship. Many have a true stem, and
produce the tuft of leaves and flowers from the top ; and
this stem may be either above ground, or subterranean.
Some species seem to combine the bulbous and tuberous
nature, the subterranean stem producing little bulbs at the

144 THE OXALIS.

extremities of rootlets. The bulbs are composed of fleshy
scales, either loose or closely imbricate.

Most of the species produce their flowers with the foliage ;
but a few bloom first, and then mature the leaves.

In some species, the new bulbs are produced at the end
of long, straggling roots, the old bulb dying. Generally, on
examination, a pot of oxalis will be found filled with strag-
ling roots, producing bulbs at the ends, or sometimes pro-
fusely along the sides, of the rootlets.

Many have thick, fusiform roots, which break from the
base of the bulbs, but which dry up and fall away when the
season's growth is finished.

The foliage is generally petiolate, and much resembles
clover, and has a sharp, sour taste ; whence the name of the
species. The flowers are mostly yellow, red, pink, or white,
and the various shades of these colors ; and are often fra-
grant. They open in the sun, closing in dull weather and at
night.

Seed is not easily ripened ; and propagation is effected by
the increase of bulbs, which takes place freely. We have
some native species, one of which is an annual ; and the
little oxalis which carpets our Northern woods ( 0. acetocella)
is well known to every observant White-mountain tourist.

THE OXALIS. 145

Many of the oxalis make admirable window -plants,
as they flower freely, and are remarkably free from in-
sects.

As all are of rather drooping, low habit, they are often
effective as drooping plants ; and one of the smallest species
(0. versicolor) is very effective for hanging baskets.

Of the many species, we can only mention the follow-
ing:—

0. Boweii, or Boweana. — A species producing large,
bright, rosy-red flowers during the whole autumn. The
bulbs should be potted in the latter part of August, in
rather large pots, six in a pot ; and will be in bloom by the
first of October.

0. cernua. — This is a pretty plant, bearing yellow flow-
ers in March, and requiring the general treatment of Cape
bulbs.

0. flava. — This is a favorite window-plant. It should
be potted in October, and will bloom from March to May.
The foliage is neat and pretty ; and the yellow flowers, which
are freely produced, are delightfully fragrant. There is a
double variety, which does not bloom as freely as the
species, and is not desirable except in collections.

0. versicolor. — This is a charming plant. The bulbs

10

14G THE OXALIS.

are very small, and should be planted in fine, light soil,
four or five in a pot, about half an inch deep, in October.
The plants will form a mass of foliage, and droop over the
pot, producing a profusion of little blossoms, tubular in bud,
but, in full sunshine, expanding fully ; the outside being
crimson-red, and the inside creamy-white.

O.floribunda. — A species with short, fleshy stems, just
serving to elevate the dense tufts of leaves and blossoms
above the soil, and with herbaceous roots. The plant
should be allowed to dry off during the winter, and be
bedded out in summer, when it will bloom profusely for
several months. The flowers are rosy-pink, and the plant
is a native of Chili.

0. lasiandra and many of the other herbaceous species
do well under the same treatment.

0. luxula and the variety alba are very pretty plants,
with foliage covering the pot, and large red or white flow-
ers, produced singly on stalks springing from the bulb. Pot
in sandy loam in September, and the plants will bloom from
November to February.

0. Deppii is a pretty pink, flowering species, the fleshy
tap-roots of which are often used as an esculent.

The following species are worthy of cultivation : —

THE IXIA. 147

AUTUMN-BLOOMING.

0. monopJiylla, Mauritiana, lobata, crenata, ambigua, Bra-
ziliensis, variabilis, tubiflora, sulphured, purpurata, rostrata,
tricolor, dentata, fallax, furcata, caprina.

WINTER AND SPRING BLOOMING.

0. miniata, compressa, bipunctata, multiflora, cuprea, incar-
nata, luteola, polyphylla, punctata, disticha.

SUMMER-BLOOMING.

(9. macropliylla, caprina, cuneata, elongata, pentaphylla,
fldbellifolia.

THE IXIA.

These bulbs are all natives of the Cape of Good Hope.
The family formerly included many other bulbs which have
been separated from it. At present, the genus consists of
about thirty species, which are distinguished from Sparaxis
by not having a jagged sheath, " from Babiana by having
a dry seed-pod instead of a berry, and from Tritonia by
having the stamens inserted at the bottom of the petals
instead of in the tube of the flower." The bulbs are small,
and look so much alike, that care must be taken to distin-

148 THE IXIA.

guish the species by proper labelling. They require only to
be planted in sandy loam, from four to eight bulbs, accord-
ing to the size, in an eight-inch pot, and to have the general
treatment of Cape bulbs. They bloom in March, and, if
well grown, make a splendid show. The different species
are propagated by the natural increase of the bulbs. Seed-
lings are easily raised.

J. viridiflora. — This is one of the most charming plants
we know. The color of the flowers — a peculiarly delicate
and yet vivid, indescribable green, with a dark, black eye
— produces an effect to which no words of ours can do
justice.

It is a strong-growing species, and blooms freely, but
often fails to perfect bulbs as large as those planted. It
can readily be imported, and is very cheap.

I.'erecta. — A fine species, with a long spike of white
flowers, with a dark eye. It produces plenty of offsets, and,
with the variety incarnata, should be in every collection.

I. monadelpha. — A pretty, free-blooming species, having
a peculiar, flattened bulb. The flowers are blue, with
green eye, and variously banded.

J. cornea. — A lovely and very showy species, with orange
flowers and crimson buds. As the flowers are very freely

THE IXIA. 149

produced, and very handsome, this species should be generally
cultivated.

/. maculata. — A very beautiful species, with flowers of
white and brown, and much resembling I. viridiflora in
habit. A variety ochroleuca, sometimes considered a spe-
cies, has large, creamy-white flowers, with a brown centre,
and long, slender tubes.

These species are rather difficult to keep.

/. scillaris. — A small species, with flowers varying from
purple to white. It flowers very early, and should there-
fore be potted in September. It is more tender than the
species previously described.

J. patens. — A species with bright-crimson flowers, and
of easy culture in loam and sand. In England, the species
is hardy enough to stand the winter, and probably would be
hardy in the Southern States. A bed of such a plant
would produce a most brilliant effect.

We may also mention I. capitata, white, with blue centre ;
I. crateroides, reddish yellow ; /. hylrida, white ; I. aristata,
pink ; I. odorata, yellow ; I. crispa, bright pink.

In fact, all the species are worth growing, and make good
window-plants. It is, however, better to grow the plants in
a pit or greenhouse, and, when in bloom, bring them into

150 THE BABIANA.

the parlor, as the foliage is not handsome, and the only
beauty of the plants consists in the brilliant blossoms.

These remarks apply with equal force to Bdbianas, Trito-
nias, and Sparaxis. Many fine seedling varieties of ixia
have been recently raised, which are even more beautiful
than the species. A small outlay will import a fine collec-
tion of these showy plants, and would give great satisfac-
tion to any amateur. It is strange that Cape bulbs are so
little grown.

«

THE BABIANA.

The roots of these plants are solid corms, covered with
hard, brown scales. A new corm forms every year from
the centre of the old one, which forms a hard, dry shell be-
neath it. These bulbs have very showy flowers, in form
somewhat between an ixia and a gladiolus.

They are not as hardy as ixias, and are very impatient of
wet, especially during the season of rest. A light, sandy soil
suits them well ; and, as the leaves are generally hairy and
plaited, they are even more subject to attacks of red spider
than the ixias. In general, however, they require - much
the same treatment, and a season of perfect rest, during
which they must be kept very dry. They are propagated

THE BABIANA. 151

by offsets and seeds, the latter of which bloom the third
season after planting. As window-plants they do well, but
do not flower as strongly as in the greenhouse.

There are about twenty species, all natives of the Cape ;
among which we may enumerate

B. rubro cyanea. — This plant is often sold by florists as
an ixia, but is easily distinguished by its broad, plaited
leaves. The flowers are among the most brilliant of the
bulbous tribe, and present a combination of brilliant ultra-
marine blue and dazzling crimson. The bulbs are small ;
but each produces three or four flowers, which remain in
perfection several days if kept in the shade. The plant is
of easiest culture, requiring only the usual treatment of
Cape bulbs.

B. villosa. — This is a showy species, with bright-crimson
flowers, freely produced in April. A large pot of this spe-
cies is very effective in the greenhouse.

B. strida. — A pretty species, with lilac-and-white flowers.

B. tubiflora. — A free-growing plant, with light or straw-
colored flowers, — often reddish. This species has done
better with us in the greenhouse than any except B. plicata.

B. sulphurea. — A fine species, with very large-spreading,
sulphur, cream-colored flowers.

152 THE SPARAXIS.

B. plicata. — A dwarf-growing species, producing an
abundance of blue, fragrant flowers.

We may also mention B. spathacea, purple flowers ; B.
bicolor, blue and white ; B. angustifolia^ blue, with choco-
late centre ; B. sambucina, rich purple, fragrant flowers. In-
deed, all the babianas are well worth growing ; and one can
hardly make a mistake in planting them.

THE SPARAXIS.

These plants, in their flowers, bear a great resemblance to
ixias ; and, indeed, only differ from them slightly botanically.
The flowers are usually more showy ; but the plants thrive
and bloom well under the same culture. The treatment after
blooming, and the modes of propagation, are essentially the
same.

There are about a dozen species, all natives of the Cape
of Good Hope.

S. tricolor. — A very brilliant flower, of bands of yellow,
black, and orange. It should be potted in October, in a
compost of two parts sand and one part each of yellow loam
and leaf-mould, and be regularly but moderately watered
during the winter. When the flower-buds form in spring,

THE SPARAXIS. 153

the supply of water should be increased until the flowering
season is over, when the bulbs should be gradually allowed
to go to rest. There are varieties with red, white, and
purple flowers.

S. versicolor. — A species somewhat resembling the last ;
the ground-color of the flowers, however, being crimson
instead of orange. It is also hardier, as in England it
stands the winter in the garden.

S. grandiflora. — This species has from one to five flow-
ers, purple inside, and whitish outside. There are two
varieties, — liliago, by some considered a species ; andsfna-
ta, the former with white and the latter with variegated
flowers.

All flower in spring, and require the same treatment as
the other species.

S. pendula. — This elegant species produces long, droop-
ing spikes of purple flowers. In growth and habit, it is un-
like all the other species. The spike is often four or five
feet long, springing from a tuft of long, reedy leaves. The
plant is a native of wet situations, and does best planted
out in the greenhouse, and allowed to take care of itself.
We have, however, grown it successfully in a pot, using a
compost of turfy loam and sand.

154 THE TRITONIA.

Some of the other species are S. anemoncftora^ white
flowers ; S. lineata, white and pink ; S. bullifera, yellow ;
S. stdlaris, purple ; S. frac/rans, yellow.

Many of the sparaxis have the curious property of pro-
ducing small bulbs in the axils of the leaves and on the
joints of the stem : these bulblets, when ripe, may be
planted, and in time produce flowering plants.

THE TRITONIA.

The members of this family differ strangely in appear-
ance ; some much resembling an ixia, others again being
like a babiana, some nearly approaching a gladiolus, while
others resemble none of these.

The plants are generally of dwarf growth, and rather
more tender than their near allies the ixia and gladiolus.
In growth, they are benefited by the usual treatment given
to Cape bulbs of weak growth ; that is, the application of
bottom heat to encourage the growth of roots before the
tops become largely developed.

A good plan is to plunge the pots in a weak hot-bed as
soon as the bulbs are planted ; the secret being, to allow the
temperature of the roots to be a few degrees higher than
that of the foliage.

THE TRITONIA. 155

"We extract from an English work a method of growing
these Cape bulbs which has been very successful, and
which might be practised in this country, certainly south of
Philadelphia, without difficulty : —

" Pot the bulbs in October, in light, turfy loam and sand,
with good drainage. Prepare a bed of dry old tan, mixed
with fresh hot litter from the stable, at least one foot deep
below the level of the garden ; and place a large frame
over it. In this plunge the pots : the more tender gladioli
at the back, as being the stronger growers ; and ixias, spa-
rax is, babianas, tritonias, in regular gradation to the front.
Give air when the weather will admit ; being careful not to
water so much as to induce damping off, and always by
banking and covering with mats and shutters to exclude
frost. The sparaxis, under this treatment, begin to show
bloom about April, and will be succeeded by ixias, babianas,
gladiolus, and tritonias, in succession. The plants should
be all removed to the greenhouse to bloom. After the
blooms have passed, replace them in the frame, continue wa-
tering to perfect the foliage, and form bulbs for the
ensuing season. Give full exposure to the sun until the
leaves have died away, that the bulbs may become thor-
oughly ripened."

156 THE TRITONIA.

There are about twenty-five species of tritonia, of which
those most commonly grown are

T. crocata. — This species is commonly known in green-
houses as orange ixia, and is one of the most floriferous of
Cape bulbs. It requires only to be potted, syringed for
red spider, and regularly watered ; and, in April, is sure to
give a profusion of its rich orange-flowers.

It propagates rapidly by offsets and by seed, which comes
true.

T. crispa. — The flowers are pale bluish color, and resem-
ble a babiana. The plant does not flower until very late
in the spring.

T. rosea. — A handsome but delicate species with rosy
flowers, having a deep pink tube.

T. longiflora. — The flowers are dirty white, and, as the
name indicates, have very long tubes : there are varieties
with straw-color and yellow flowers. The species grows
and flowers freely, and is, with the varieties, one of
the most satisfactory of the family for greenhouse cul-
ture.

T. fucata. — A very showy plant with yellow and red
flowers of a peculiar form. The species multiplies freely,
but is difficult to flower.

THE GEISSORHIZA. 157

T. Uneata. — A pretty species with pale-yellow and
orange flowers, finely pencilled with dark lines.

T. squalida. — A lovely species, not uncommon in collec-
tions, producing white-and-pink beautifully marked flowers.
Other species are T. fenestrata, orange-flowers ; T. flava,
yellow ; T. miniata, orange ; T. pallida, straw-color ; T.
purpurea, purple ; T. fiochensis, cream-color ; T. securigera,
brown ; T. deusta, reddish ; T. viridis, green ; T. aurea,
orange ; T. Capensis, white. T. aurea is now separated
from this family, and called Grocosmia aurea.

THE GEISSORHIZA.

A small family of tender bulbs, formerly classed with
ixia, mostly natives of the Cape of Good Hope, and re-

158 THE GEISSORHIZA.

quiring the usual treatment of Cape bulbs, except that the
soil in which they are grown should be very sandy. The
plants are commonly called " tile-root," from the tile-like
scales which cover the roots. None of the species are very
common. The best are

G. Eocheana. — A pretty little plant known as "plaid
ixia." The bulb is small, but the flowers very brilliant;
the colors being blue, white, and crimson.

G. obtusata. — A larger-growing species with straw and
buff flowers.

G. vaginata — A very showy species, flowering in Au-
gust. The flowers are yellow, tipped with dark purple or
black.

G. secunda. — A blue, flowered species, with a white
variety.

G. excisa. — A small-growing species known as Ixia
excisa. The flowers are white, lined with pink and with
a green centre, and open only in full sunshine.

There are about half a dozen other species which have
been introduced ; but they are rarely met with, and some are
probably lost to cultivation.

ESCRIPTION must fail to convey an idea
of the stately grandeur, the queenly purity,
and graceful habit, of this beautiful flower.
The lily is pre-eminently a garden-bulb ; there being very
few, which, with some slight protection, will not bear a New-
England winter, and many are among the hardiest garden-
flowers.

All lilies have scaly bulbs, and are propagated by offsets,
by seed, by stem-bulbs in some cases, and by separating the
scales of the bulb and planting each scale in silver-sand,
where it will soon make a small bulb. All the above
methods, except by seed, are for the perpetuating old estab-

159

160 THE LILY.

lished species or varieties : by seed alone, new hybrid varie-
ties are produced. The culture of the lily is very simple.
Most of the species like a deep, rich soil, enriched with well-
rotted manure ; but care must be taken that water does not
stand round the roots in winter, as this often rots the bulbs.
Many of the species like a sandy loam, and most are benefited
when first planted by placing in the hole a handful of sand.

The generally received opinion is that lilies should only
be transplanted in the autumn. In our experience, however,
they have done quite as well removed in early spring ; care
being taken to keep the bulb from drying, and not to injure
the young roots or shoots. In transplanting, the bulb should
be kept out of the ground the shortest possible time. It is the
drying process the bulbs have undergone which causes such
loss in imported lilies ; more than one-half of them, in spite
of every care, failing to come up the spring after planting.

Lilies once planted should be disturbed as seldom as pos-
sible, and only when rendered necessary by the increase of
bulbs : for most species, unless propagation is the object,
once in five years is often enough for the health of the plant.
As the bulbs cannot be disturbed after planting, the prepara-
tion of the bed becomes a matter of the first importance.
The soil should be deep, that the plants may not suffer from

THE LILY. 161

drought ; and be enriched with a liberal quantity of well-
rotted manure, which should be well worked in. Each
autumn, a top-dressing of well -rotted manure should
be carefully forked in between the rows ; and, on the ap-
proach of winter, the bed should be covered with clean lit-
ter or leaves, which covering should be removed in early
spring. The bulbs should be planted from three to six
inches deep, according to their size.

Many of the lilies force well in the greenhouse, particu-
larly L. candidum, speciosum, longiflorum, land folium, and
Japonicum ; but none are suitable for parlor culture. There
are about seventy-five well-known species and varieties ; and
new species are being discovered, and new hybrids produced,
every year.*

The characteristics of a good lily are as follow : —

LILY.

1. The plant should be only as high from the pot to the
bottom flower as it is from the bottom flower to the top
one. The leaves should be long, and plenty of them at bot-
tom, and gradually shorten and lessen in number as they
approach the bottom bloom.

2. The individual bloom should be large, and composed

* See " Garden Flowers."

162 THE LILY.

of broad petals reflexing in the form of a globe, without
separation at the points, or forming gutters or uneven ribs
in the petals, but showing a fair, round, even surface, and
exhibiting none of the backs of the petals.

3. The petals should be thick, rich in texture, free from
notches, or puckers, of pure ground-color or white. The
blooms should be on strong foot-stalks, the lower flower
farther off the stem than the upper ; and there should not be
less than seven in the truss, or spike, that should form a
tapering head of flowers.

4. The varieties speckled with the ruby-like spots should
be of pure white ground, and the spots bright scarlet : those
with pale rosy ground should have black spots ; and the
more and the larger, the better.

The species most commonly cultivated are

L. candidum. — This is the old-fashioned white or
Annunciation lily, one of the oldest inhabitants of the gar-
den, but always a favorite, and a plant of which no garden
can have too many. While thriving in common border-
soil, this species grows and flowers with wonderful luxuri-
ance in a richly prepared bed. In our own garden, such a
bed was a splendid object during the past season. The bed
was ten feet in diameter, excavated six feet deep in sandy

THE LILY. 163

soil, filled with rich loam and manure, and planted with
fifty bulbs of this lily ; and the effect, when in bloom, was
very fine. The species is a native of the Levant ; and there
are varieties with double flowers, with striped and spotted
flowers, and with foliage variegated with gold and silver
markings. All are of value in a collection ; but none are to
be compared with the species.

L. lulliferum. — This is the common orange-lily, hardy
in any situation, propagated freely by bulblets. It need not
be removed when once planted •; for it will take care of
itself, and flower freely year after year.

L. monadelphum. — The common yellow Caucasian lily
is not as common as L. bulbiferum, but is equally hardy,
and requires the same treatment. In growth, it resembles
the martagon lilies, and has been an inhabitant of our gar-
dens since 1800.

L. peregrinum. — This very handsome species is a native
of the Levant. It is perfectly hardy, and its white flowers
are very showy ; but it is not common.

L. croceum. — A very hardy species, with showy yellow
flowers, a native of the south of Europe, growing freely in
common garden-soil.

L. Canadense. — This, the species so common in rich

164 THE LILY.

meadows, producing drooping yellow flowers, is greatly
improved by cultivation ; the plant increasing in size and
in the number of flowers. The bulbs should be trans-
planted in autumn to a bed of peaty loam, where they may
remain undisturbed for years.

L. superbum. — This lily is not found wild in Southern
New England ; but, in New York and the Northern States,
is the common red drooping-lily of the meadows. In culti-
vation, it is a magnificent plant ; often producing a spike
with from twenty to thirty flowers. It requires the same
treatment as the last species ; and, like it, has white creep-
ing roots.

L. Philadelphicum. — The common upright red lily of the
pastures, producing one, rarely two or three, handsome red
flowers, spotted with black. The bulb is small and white,
and may be transplanted to the garden, where it grows vig-
orously. The soil should be rather light.

L. Catesbaei. — The Southern red lily much resembles
the last ; but the color is lighter. It is plentiful south of
Philadelphia ; and has even been found wild in Massachu-
setts, where it proves hardy in the garden.

L. martagon. — Of the Turk's-cap lily there are a dozen
varieties, with white, reddish, and purple flowers and

THE LILY. 165

whorled leaves. They are all of coarse habit, but look
well in the garden. The individual flowers are small ; but
many are produced on the spike. Most of the species are
hardy ; though, in New England, those with white flowers
require winter protection of leaves or litter, as they are
sometimes killed.

L. Pyrenaicum. — A fine species much resembling the
inartagon, but with yellow flowers, and leaves not whorled.
A native of the Pyrenees, and hardy.

L. Chalcedonicum. — A beautiful flower, commonly called
the scarlet martagon, generally hardy, and only requiring
to be planted in good soil. A native of Hungary.

L. longiflorum. — This splendid lily is hardy enough to
stand a New-England winter. The flowers are white, six
to nine inches long, and very fragrant. The bulbs should
be planted four inches deep in a well-prepared bed, which
should be covered during the winter with six inches of tan
or clean litter.

L. pumilum. — A lovely little species with red flowers ; a
native of Siberia ; hardy, but not common.

L. tenuifoliwn. — A pretty species with drooping red
flowers and fine-cut foliage ; a native of the Caucasus ;
hardy, but rare.

166 THE LILY.

L. atrosanguineum. — A species with orange-red flowers,
from Japan ; perfectly hardy in a light soil.

L. Kamschatkense. — A small-growing species with purple
flowers, hardy.

L. pomponium.- — A well-known red lily, a native of
Siberia, and long an inhabitant of the garden. Both
the species and a double variety are worthy a place in
the border.

L. speciosum and lancifolium. — These and the many hy-
brid varieties are the well-known Japan lilies of the garden,
once considered greenhouse species, but now known to be
perfectly hardy. The flowers are too well known to need
description ; and, indeed, no words can do justice to their
beauty. The hybrid varieties of the last five years far
exceed the species in beauty, and are now so cheap as to
be obtained by all. These plants delight in a rich deep
soil ; and, when well grown, are splendid objects in the
garden.

L. Japonicum. — This beautiful species is hardly hardy
in New England. The flower is large and bell-shaped,
the petals curving upward at the point. In the greenhouse,
it blooms well.

L. auratum. — This, the most magnificent lily known to

THE LILY. 167

cultivation, is not as hardy as L. lancifolium, and more
liable to disease. Bulbs left out in the open ground during
the winter will come up and do well at first ; but, after the
flower-buds are formed, they are very apt to die out, the
leaves turning yellow, and the whole plant rapidly failing.
This is not uncommon, even when they are kept in pots
and sheltered from severe frosts. The plant requires the
house treatment of L. lancifolium, but may be bedded out

in the border in summer. The flower is very large, white,

%

with deep yellow bands down the petals. There seem to be
varieties, differing in the intensity of the bands : the stalks
are many-flowered. The accounts of its size, beauty, and
fragrance, are not exaggerated. The credit of introducing
this splendid lily belongs to New England. It was
brought from Japan in 1860 by F. Gordon Dexter, Esq.,
who placed it in the hands of Francis Lee, Esq., by whom
it was bloomed in the summer of 1861. In the spring of
1862, Mr. Lee transferred it to Francis Parkrnan, Esq., a
zealous amateur, who exhibited it at the Massachusetts
Horticultural Exhibition on the 8th of July of the same
year, and described it in " The Gardener's Monthly." It
was bloomed in England this same year (1862) for the first
time.

168

THE LILY.

L. venustum. — This beautiful species is often imported
under the names of L. testaceum, superbum, and peregrinum;
and sending for any of these to Holland will bring a good
supply of L. venustum; and, indeed, one can scarcely have
too many. The plant is hardy, grows well in any garden-
soil, and produces large spikes of nodding buff or creamy
orange flowers. It likes a rich soil not too wet.

The greenhouse species are of easy culture in loam and
leaf-mould with a little sharp sand. They require large
pots ; plenty of water, light, and air, while in growth ; and

THE LILY. 169

are benefited by waterings of weak manure-water. Among
the tender species may be mentioned L. giganteum, a
very fine species from the Himalayas, with large white
flyers ; L. roseum, with rosy-purple flowers, from India ;
L. Thompsonianum, an Indian species, with rosy flowers ;
L. Wallichianum, from Nepaul, with greenish-white flow-
ers ; and L. concolor, a native of China, with brilliant red
flowers.

There are many other lilies in cultivation, and many
hybrids, to which it would be difficult to assign their true
position. Later years have shown many to be hardy
which were once reputed tender, and the future may show
further progress in the same direction.

The different species and varieties hybridize freely ; and
there is no flower which presents greater attractions for
the skill of the botanist or the experiments of the
amateur.

XII.

THE FBITTELARIA, FEBBABIA, ALLIUM, OBNITHOGALUM.
THE FRITTELARIA.

ARLY in the spring, the dark
blunt shoots of the crown .im-
pcrial (F. imperialist pushing
from the ground, give promise
of the crown of showy blos-
soms which a few weeks will develop. And, indeed,
in few flowers is the growth more rapid. Each sunny
day the plant grows apace, and soon unfolds its crown
of flowers, surmounted by the tuft of green foliage.
The crown imperial, which was the most ornamenta
of the frittclarias, has been separated from the genus,
and now forms a new family called Petilium, the species

being P. imperiale; but, as it is popularly classed with
170

THE FRITTELARIA. 171

frittelaria, we have thought best to describe it under that
family.

All the frittelarias do best in a deep, rich soil, and
are much benefited by top-dressings of well-rotted manure.
All the crown imperials are hardy, requiring no protec-
tion in winter : in summer they do not like a soil which
becomes very dry, as the bulbs suffer from drought. Many
of the smaller species of frittelaria, especially those with
white flowers, are less hardy, and in New England require
winter protection. Like the crown imperial, they are im-
patient of drought ; and none should be long kept out of
the 'ground when transplanted. All the species propagate
freely by offsets, and most ripen seed freely, which should
be sown and treated like other seedling bulbs. Seedlings
bloom the third year. '. ''

All the species may remain in the ground undis-
turbed for years, where they soon form large masses,
and are very effective.

All bloom in May, and contrast well with tulips and
the ^later hyacinths.

F. (PetiliuTn) imperialis. — This species is a native of
Persia, but has been an inmate of the garden since
1596. The bulbs are large, and have a rank, un-

172 THE FEITTELARIA.

pleasant smell, which, when the plants are in rapid
growth, is distributed over the whole plant, so that
the breeze blowing over a bed of crown imperials is
by no means pleasantly perfumed. The flowers, how-
ever, are fragrant : they are remarkable for the drops
of honey which stand in the petals of the flower, and
which shine with peculiar lustre. This property is
possessed in common by all the family, but in the
greatest degree by this species.

The ovaries, after the fading of the flower, become
erect, and produce abundance of seed.

This species should be planted six inches deep, in
a very rich soil. The stems appear early in spring,
but die away by the last of June ; and their place
may be occupied by bedding-plants. These plants look
well in a large bed composed of mixed varieties, of
which those with golden and silver striped foliage are
the finest-foliaged plants of early spring.

There are many varieties, of which the single red, yel-
low, and those with variegated foliage, are the best. The
double varieties are by no means as good as the single.

F. Persica. — This very handsome plant is as hardy
as the crown imperial, and requires the same culture.

THE FERRARIA. 173

When well grown, it is very showy ; for, although the
individual flowers are small and dull-colored, they are
produced on a long spike in great profusion.

F. meleagris. — This is the well-known guinea-hen
flower, and is a native of England. The bulb is
small, white, and flat, and produces one large nodding
flower. The species is perfectly hardy, and requires
only the same care as a crocus, except that it does
not need frequent replanting. There are other species,
of which we may mention F. latifolia and tenella, which
resemble F. meleagris, F. luted with yellow, and F.
oUigua with dark-purple flowers.

THE FERRARIA.

These are Cape bulbs, and are worthy of culture
by the amateur, though the flowers are dull-colored.
They require to be potted in October, in sandy loam,
with a little peat, moderately watered during growth,
and kept perfectly dry when at rest. They flower in
early spring, and then immediately lose their foliage.

The plants are all dwarf, and the bulbs small: in
growth, they need a light, airy situation.

174 THE ALLIUM.

They increase freely by offsets, and also ripen seed,
which may be sown when ripe, or kept until the fol-
lowing spring. In England they survive the winter,
planted in a warm, dry border.

The species are, —

F. antherosa, with green and brown flowers.

F. angustifolia, with brown flowers.

F. uncinata. — A curious species, with green flowers,
having a bright-blue mark in the centre.

F. atrata. — Very brilliant purple flowers.

F. divaricata. — Flowers purple and green.

F. elongata. — Dark-purple flowers ; a native of Monte-
video, flowering in July.

F. oUusifolia. — This is the largest species, growing
eighteen inches high, and throwing out branches. It
blooms in summer, and should be treated like summer-
blooming bulbs. It is showy, and produces a profusion
of brown flowers.

F. undulata. — A pretty species, with green and brown
flowers.

THE ALLIUM.

Although not suitable flowers for bouquets or for
parlor culture, many of the onions (allium) are very

THE ALLIUM. 175

ornamental in the border. Indeed, the family, probably
from prejudice, has been much neglected, when many far
less showy plants have found favor.

Many of the species are very ornamental, and are
perfectly hardy in common garden-soil, requiring no
particular care, and yearly producing masses of showy
flowers.

Out of some fifty species, we can recommend the
following for the garden. All increase readily by offsets.

A. moly. — A low-growing species, which in early June
produces a mass of golden-yellow flowers. A native of
the south of Europe, and one of the hardiest species.

A. cceruleum. — A pretty species, with bright-blue
flowers ; a native of Russia, and hardy.

A. senescens. — Flowers purple.

A. azureum. — Blue flowers,

A. angulosum. — Light purple or pink flowers.

A. longiflorum. — Very dark purple.

A. Neapolitanum. — A fine species, with a large umbel
of white flowers. Rather tender, and requiring green-
house treatment. There are many tender species, with
showy flowers, which may be easily grown where room
can be given them.

176 THE ORNITHOGALUM.

THE ORNITHOGALUM.

A family of very pretty bulbs, containing about a
dozen hardy and some fifty tender species, all familiarly
known as " star of Bethlehem." The prevailing color
of the flowers is white ; but many are marked with
green, and some are yellow. The hardy species require
the same treatment as a tulip, but may be left in the
border for years undisturbed. They will then flower
regularly every year, and increase largely by offsets.

The tender species require the usual treatment of Cape
bulbs ; and, in the greenhouse, flower from May to July.
These plants are natives of Europe, Africa, and America ;
but a large proportion come from the Cape of Good
Hope. Among hardy species we may mention

0. umbellatum. — This pretty species is very common in
gardens. The flowers are silvery- white, green outside, and
open only in sunshine. They are produced in great abun-
dance, and have a very pleasing effect. The species multi-
plies rapidly by offsets, and, having escaped from gardens,
seems disposed to become naturalized.

0. finibriatum. — A species with bluish- white flowers,
blooming in early spring. A native of the Crimea.

THE ORNITHOGALUM. 177

0. Narbonense. — A small-flowered and not very hand-
some species, the blossoms being small and straggling :
only desirable in a collection.

0. Pyrenaicum. — A green-flowered species of little
beauty.

0. nutans. — A pretty species, with drooping, white
flowers ; hardy if protected by leaves during the winter.

0. pyramidale. — A fine species, with a spike of white
flowers in June. The foliage is handsome, and appears
very early in spring, followed by the flower in June.

0. bulbiferum, comosum^ montanum, and marginatum, often
prove hardy. Many of the tender species are very beautiful,
and should always find place in a collection of Cape bulbs.

0. niveum has small snow-white flowers and grassy leaves.

0. revolutum. — An elegant species, with rich foliage
and showy flowers, which are white, with a rich yellow
centre, in a conical raceme.

0. corymbosum. — A native of South America, with
large, white, fragrant flowers.

0. conicum. — Flowers plure white, very large ; native
of the Cape of Good Hope.

0. lacteum. — A fine species, producing an abundance of
rich white flowers.

12

178 THE ORNITHOGALUM.

0. Aralicum. — This handsome plant is not uncommon
in collections. The flowers are large, whitish, with a dark
centre. It requires a very sandy soil.

0. auremn. — A beautiful species, with yellow flowers,
but of somewhat difficult culture ; not growing freely or
flowering well. It requires sandy loam, but often remains
dormant two years before sending up its foliage.

0. thyrsoides. — A fine plant, with yellow flowers, some-
what resembling the last, but of very much easier growth.
The plant is a native of the Cape, and only requires planting
in sandy loam, and the usual culture of Cape bulbs. A fine
variety, flavesccns, is of deeper color ; also a native of the
Cape, but introduced fifty years later than the species.

Many of the ornithogalums have insignificant flowers,
and are not worthy the room they would occupy in the
greenhouse.

Most of the species have the property of continuing to
expand their flowers when the spike is cut, and placed in
water, sometimes for several weeks, which renders them
valuable for parlor decoration. This is particularly the
case with 0. pyramidale, 0. caudatum, and 0. sulplmreum.

ROM the latter part of July, and during
the month of August, up to the time of the
early frosts, the bed of gladiolus is the
most showy portion of the flower-garden.
But all these which we commonly grow are the offspring
of two or three species, and are mostly hybrids ; being
varieties, and not species. There are, however, about fifty
distinct species, many of them among the most beautiful of
Cape bulbs, and requiring the culture usually given to that
class. They are, however, very rarely in cultivation,
though the reason would be difficult to find ; for a more
showy family, or one of easier culture, cannot be found
among bulbous plants. 179

180- THE GLADIOLUS.

There are, however, two gladiolus, natives of Europe
and Asia, which are hardy, and only require to be planted
in common soil in the bulb-border about two inches deep,
where they will flower, if undisturbed, for years, and
rapidly increase by offsets.

G. communis. — A native of the south of Europe, and
very common in gardens. The flowers are dull reddish-
purple, produced on one side of a short Malk. The plant
is perfectly hardy, and increases rapidly by offsets. There
are varieties with white and flesh-colored flowers, which are
desirable. While a clump of this species is very pretty, the
flowers are too small and dull-colored to make it very effec-
tive in the garden. Its great recommendation is its hardiness.

G. Byzantium. — This species, as its name implies, is a
native of the region near Constantinople. The flowers
much resemble those of G. communis, but are larger, are
produced on both sides of the stalk, and have yellow stripes
down the lower petals. The species is hardy, and requires
only common garden-culture, but does not increase readily.
Both this and G. communis need a sunny situation to bloom
well.

Of other fine species, many of which are hardy in
England, but with us are grown in the greenhouse, bloom-

THE GLADIOLUS. 181

iiig in June and July, we may enumerate a few ; only
premising, that, in pot-culture, the gladiolus requires a
rather large pot, with light, rich soil, good drainage, and
plenty of water when in growth, with frequent syringings
and spongings to keep off the red spider, which particularly
infests this plant. The bulbs should be planted at least
three inches deep, if of large size, as the new bulb is formed
on top of the old one ; and the plants should have a light,
airy position, to prevent them from becoming drawn.

G. cardinalis. — A common but very handsome species,
with scarlet flowers, marked with a white spot on each petal.
From this species many fine varieties have been raised, as it
hybridizes freely with many of the tender kinds. Both
species and varieties are very desirable.

G. cochleatus. — A curious species, with stiff leaves, and
white flowers stained with red, and having a peculiarly spoon-
shaped lip ; whence the name. A native of the Cape, flower-
ing in March, but not common.

G. versicolor. — A showy plant, the colors of which are
said to Change at sunset. It is a native of the Cape, and
rather rare in collections.

G. suavolens. — A pretty species, of dwarf growth, with
pale-yellow, fragrant flowers.

182 THE GLADIOLUS.

G. recurvus. — A very ornamental species, with violet
flowers tinged with yellow, and very fragrant. The stem
produces two to five flowers, " which, when they first
expand, are yellow, so dotted over with very small violet-
blue spots, that they look quite blue at a distance. In
this state, the flowers are very beautiful. In the course
of two or three days, however, the dots disappear, and
the whole flower becomes a pale and somewhat dull
violet-blue."

It is a native of the Cape, and was first grown in Eng-
land in 1760, being raised from seed.

G. carneus. — A fine species, with blush flowers, marked
with crimson and white.

G. llandus. — A species resembling the last, but with
white flowers slightly stained with red.

Many fine hybrids have been produced between this spe-
cies and G. cardinaUs.

G. albidus. — A fine species, with flowers nearly pure
white.

G. ramosus. — There is some question whether this plant
is a hybrid or a true species. The plant is tall and of
sturdy growth, producing a branching spike of rosy-red
flowers, the inferior petals marked with darker shades. It

THE GLADIOLUS. 183

sometimes does well planted out in the spring, but is infe-
rior in beauty to the fine hybrids of G. Gandavensis.

G. concolor. — A pretty species, with yellow flowers,
whictuare fragrant towards evening. The flowers vary in
number from two to eight, and are produced on the same
side of the spike.

G. viperatus. — A singular plant, with greenish - gray
flowers, with brown and dark stripes. The species is very
desirable from the peculiar color and the fragrance of the
flowers.

G. Colvelli. — A fine hybrid, produced in 1823 by cross-
ing G. concolor with G. cardinalis, and still maintaining its
place in collections. The flowers are scarlet, marked with
purple, produced on a close spike, and are fragrant. It
requires the same treatment as its parents.

We may also mention as desirable G. alatus, Algoensis,
and Namaquensis (sometimes considered varieties of ala-
tus), brevifolius, trichonemifoUus,tristis, Watsonius, recurvus,
Millerii, gracilis, edulis, and cuspidatus.

All these could probably be grown in this country under
the frame-culture mentioned in Chapter X., and would
well repay the care required. Most of them are moder-
ately hardy, and in the greenhouse should have a cool, airy

184 THE GLADIOLUS.

situation. We are inclined to believe that careless culture,
rather than any difficulty of a more serious kind, is the
reason we so seldom see any of this beautiful class in col-
lections.

We now come to the more hardy species, for which we
can give no better cultural directions than are laid down in
an article written by us a year ago for " The Horticultu-
rist."

Our garden gladiolus are mostly hybrids from G. Nata-
lensis and G. floribundus, or oppositiflorus, with a little of the
blood of G. cardinalis and ramosus in some of the fine vari-
eties. They are commonly known, in gardeners' parlance,
as " Gandaveusis hybrids," from the first hybrid raised,
and diifer much in habit and form from any of the species
we have before described.

The name Gladiolus, from the Latin, is a true diminutive
from gladius, " a sword," and therefore means a little sword :
its reference is to the shape of the leaves of the plant ;
and the same is found in the common name. " sword lily."
The name is generally incorrectly pronounced gladiolus,
with the accent on the o. Following the analogy of the
Latin, the word should be gladiolus, the accent on the i,
leaving the penult short ; a far more euphonious word.

THE GLADIOLUS. 185

Gladiolus floribundus, or oppositiflorus^ is a native of the
Cape of Good Hope, and was introduced to English gardens
about the year 1788. It is a well-known species, of easiest
culture, and will, even in New England, sometimes survive
the winter in the open ground. The best mode is to take
up the bulbs, which are small, soon after the frost has
killed the leaves, and preserve them in a cool, dry cellar,
free from frost, until spring. The flowers are produced
abundantly on opposite sides of the stem (whence the
names), and are of a whitish pink, with purple or lake
markings.

Gladiolus Natalensis, or psittacinus, was introduced in
1829. It is a plant of sturdy habit, flowers scarlet and
yellow, mottled ; too well known to need particular descrip-
tion. Although a native of the hot region of Port Natal, it
js often found hardy ; and in England, and some sections of
our country, is perfectly so ; the bulb requiring only to be
surrounded by sand to prevent its rotting in the winter.

While G.floribundus is still commonly cultivated, G. Na-
talemis, having been long since surpassed in habit and
color by hundreds of hybrids, is entirely neglected, and is
rarely met with ; and few indeed would imagine that the
introduction of this now-despised species threw the whole

186 THE GLADIOLUS.

horticultural world into a fever of excitement, and that the
bulbs commanded immense prices.

These being the original species, the first hybrid was G.
Gandavensis, so called from the town of Ghent. Its origin is
obscure ; the late Hon. and Rev. William Herbert, the best
authority on bulbs, declaring it impossible it should be a
hybrid between the two species mentioned above, as, with
all his skill in hybridizing, he had never been able to cross
those two species.

Be this as it may, certain it is that to G. Gandavensis
we owe all our fine hybrids ; this variety crossing freely
with all other varieties and some of the species, the seed-
lings sporting very much.

The color of the flowers of the variety is scarlet-red, with
deep or light yellow blotches on inferior petals. It is a
showy plant, and, although excelled by hundreds of seed-
lings, is worthy of cultivation.

GENERAL TREATMENT.

The bulbs should be planted as soon as the ground is
fairly dried in the spring and all danger of frost is over.
If deeply planted, a surface-frost does no injury. Plantings
may be made every two weeks, until the middle of June, for

THE GLADIOLUS. 187

a succession of bloom. Set the bulb from two to four
inches deep, according to the size (we have found deep plant-
ing advantageous in dry seasons) ; and cover lightly with
pulverized soil free from stones, pressing it gently down
with the palm of the hand. The plants will appear in
about ten days, and only require to be kept free from weeds :
a light hoeing occasionally is beneficial for keeping the
ground open, and allowing air and moisture to penetrate.
Do not water, unless in very severe drought, when the plants
are dying (except in the case of small bulbs, which are
often lost by drying up). Watering tends to bring both new
bulbs and roots to the surface, and is injurious.

When the plants are about four inches high, they should
each be tied to a neat, light stake, which should be of such
a height as to allow the whole bloom of the spike to project
above it : two feet six inches is a good length. As the plant
grows and the flower-spike pushes, new ties should be given,
as much danger is to be apprehended from violent winds or
heavy rains. If we do not desire to save seed, we should
cut off the flower-stalk as soon as the bloom is past. When
the frost has killed the leaves, or before, if the leaves, by
turning yellow, show the ripening of the bulb, the bulb
should be taken np, dried rapidly in full sunlight, the new

188 THE GLADIOLUS.

bulbs separated from the old, and the flowering bulbs (the
stalk being cut off about an inch from the crown of the
bulb) and the bulblets (which on some varieties are plenti-
fully produced) put up in paper-bags carefully labelled.
During the winter, the bulbs should be preserved in a dry,
cool cellar free from frost.

SOIL.

A rich light soil is best adapted to the plant. Our prac-
tice has been to dig into the beds late in the autumn a quan-
tity of well-rotted (at least two years') manure (cow-manure
is preferable to any other) ; then in the spring, just before
planting, dig the bed again, and pulverize the soil well. In
a deep clayey loam with clay subsoil, the plants seldom pro-
duce fine flowers. A gravel subsoil seems to suit the plant.
Our finest beds are where was formerly a pitch-pine wood.

SEED.

Most of the hybrids ripen seed freely ; but no dependence
can be placed upon its producing the parent : indeed, for it to
do so is the exception, and not the rule. As soon as the
seed is ripe, which is known by the bursting of the capsule,
it should be gathered, and may at once be sown in a frame

THE GLADIOLUS. 189

or greenhouse, or carefully dried and preserved until the
spring. The seed retains its germinating property about a
year.

, * SEEDLINGS.

Almost every seed will produce a plant. If sown as soon
as ripe, say in September, the plants soon appear, looking
like small blades of grass : they should be rapidly grown in
heat. About the first of March, they will die down : rest
should be given them, by withholding water, until about the
first of June. The little bulblets, which will be about the
size of peas, should then be replanted, in boxes, about three-
quarters of an inch apart : water moderately. They will
grow all summer, dying down about October : give a rest
until January ; then repot, an inch apart, and grow until
March ; rest again until June ; plant in beds of finely pul-'
verized soil in the open air, and the larger proportion will
bloom in September.

This rapid growth can be attained only where there are
greenhouse facilities. Ordinarily, the seed is sown in a box
or pot, set in a frame in the spring : the plants die down in
the autumn ; are wintered in the box in the cellar ; the next
spring, are planted in a prepared bed ; and, following the
same process, bloom the third year.

190 THE GLADIOLUS.

PRESERVATION OF VARIETIES.

As a bulb worth five dollars cannot, in the dry state, be
distinguished from one worth five cents, great care must be
taken to preserve varieties true to the name. For this, the
use of wooden labels, with the name written in black-lead, is
to be discouraged, as, aside from the danger of misplacing,
the name is often rendered illegible by the weather. We
have as yet seen no better way than our own, by which we
have preserved some hundreds of distinct varieties without
a mistake. The names are written with chemical ink on
both side& of a zinc label (such as are ordinarily sold for
fruit-trees) : these are attached to chestnut-stakes two and a
half feet long, pointed at the lower end, and bored at the
upper by a zinc wire (iron rusts, lead is too pliable, copper
eats the zinc).

In planting, we set the stake with the name attached when
we plant the bulb : as the plant grows, it is tied to the stake ;
and, in autumn, stake and bulb come up together. When
the bulb is dry enough to bag, the name from the stake is
first written on the bag ; then the bulb is cut off, cleaned, and
bagged, the stalk thrown away, and the stake put away for
the next year. All this takes time, and is troublesome ; but

THE GLADIOLUS. 191

the satisfaction of knowing that all varieties are true to the
name more than compensates. If this mode were followed
by growers, there would be no such general complaint as now
exists, of poor kinds being imposed for good varieties. Our
experience is, that, in this respect, the most culpable care-
lessness prevails, which yearly grows worse as varieties
increase.

PROPAGATION BY BULBLETS.

We have said that seeds seldom produce the parent : how,
then, can we multiply any variety in quantity ? By bulblets.
When we take up the bulb in the autumn, we see at the base
of the root more or less numerous bunches of black or white
hard bulbs, varying in size from a marble to a mustard-seed.
These, if we can get them to grow, produce the original
variety. Collect these carefully, bag and label them, and
lay them aside for eighteen months ; then sow them in the
open border in a prepared bed : they will come up in ten
days (not one will fail), and form bulbs which will bloom the
next summer. If, however, you plant them the next spring
after gathering (instead of keeping them over a season), not
one in a hundred will come up.

192 THE GLADIOLUS.

DISEASES AND ENEMIES.

A cold, damp soil, causing rot, is the greatest difficulty in
gladiolus culture : this may be in a degree remedied by
planting the bulb in sand. Rust is a disease of which the
cause is yet unexplained : the whole plant turns a dirty
spotted yellow, and the bulb is found to be eaten with white
spots. As soon as the disease is observed, dig up the bulb,
and throw it away. It seems more prevalent in damp soils,
appearing just as the plant shows bloom. A green cut-
worm often eats off the tender shoots in early spring : the
only remedy is to examine the base of each shoot at night,
and kill the worm. The skin covering the bulb is some-
times infested with mealy-bug: immediately burn every
bulb so infested, let the variety be choice as it may.

MULTIPLICATION OF VARIETIES.

This is an evil which will soon be felt. All the world are
raising seedling gladioli. At least one-half of the seedlings
are equal to or better than old-named varieties. Each
grower names his favorites ; and we are in danger of
having a confusion of synonymes which will rival the
palmiest days of pear-culture. How this can be remedied

THE GLADIOLUS. 193

other than by a gladiolus convention is an interesting
question.

We have said our native seedlings are better than
named varieties : we have reason to rejoice it is so, and we
see no reason for importing gladioli when we can raise far
better varieties than we can import.

The following are some of the finest varieties : —

El Dorado, Solfaterre, Lord Campbell, Vulcain, Pluton,
La Quintanie, Rembrandt, Madame de Vatry, Goliah," Ju-
non, Vesta, Sulphureus, Hebe, Penelope, Calypso, Madam
Binder, Mile. Souchet, Mrs. Vilmorin, La Poussin, Count
de Moray, Achille, Brenchleyensis, Anatole Levanneur,
Imperatrice, Ceres, Princess Clothilde, Osiris, Dr. Lindley,
Napoleon III., Mars.

The following varieties are very poor, and not worth
growing, except for massing : —

Mons. Georgeon, Charles Rouillard, Madame Pele, Ma-
dame Paillet, Keteleerii, Mrs. Couder, Gil Bias, Roseus,
Isabella, Burgraff d'Osterland, Mons. Blouet, Robert Blum,
Charles Michel, Dr. Margolin.

These lists might be infinitely increased, and the day is
not far distant when a large proportion of imported varieties
will be thrown out of cultivation by American seedlings.

13

194 THE TIGRIDIA.

THE TIGRIDIA.

This is a beautiful family, consisting of only two species
and two varieties. The plants are very tender, being
natives of Mexico ; and will not bear the least frost. They
need a deep, light, rich soil, free from stones. The bulbs
are small, but in growth throw down a fleshy tap-root to
a considerable distance. If the ground is not naturally
rich, an addition of well-rotted stable-manure will add
greatly to the size of the plant and the brilliancy of the
flower.

The bulbs should be planted, when the ground gets warm
in the spring, in beds or clumps : the plants will soon ap-
pear, and bloom in August and September. After the frost
has killed the foliage, the bulbs should be taken up, thor-
oughly dried, and preserved in a warm, dry cellar, out of
the way of mice, until time for planting.

They increase rapidly by offsets, and also ripen seed
freely.

The flowers are very brilliant, but transient, lasting only
one day ; but several are produced from the same stalk.

T. pavonia. — The colors are bright scarlet, spotted with
yellow and brown. Introduced in 1796.

THE WATSONIA. 195

T. conchiflora. — Flowers orange -yellow, spotted with
brown ; not so strong or free-flowering as T. pavonia. .

T. speciosa is a hybrid between these two, partaking more
of the nature of T. pavonia, and of a dull, red color.

T. Wlieeleril is also a hybrid, resembling T. conchiflora
more closely.

The plant sometimes seen in florists' catalogues under the
name of T. ccerulea is Plialocallis plumbea.

THE WATSONIA.

The plants composing this family were formerly known
as gladiolus, to which some of the species are nearly allied.
They are rather tall-growing plants, with showy flowers,
and of easy culture in light, rich soil. In England they
are • hardy, and receive the same treatment given to Cape
gladioli. With us they require a greenhouse and the usual
culture of Cape bulbs. The large-growing speeies should
have large pots, and all require careful attention to drain-
age. They propagate freely by offsets, and also ripen seed.
From some twenty-five species we may name

W. kumilis. — A dwarf and very desirable species, with
large, rose-colored flowers.

196 THE SYNNOTIA.

W. Meriana. — A beautiful species, with dark, flesh-
colored flowers.

W. fulgida. — A tall-growing, handsome species, with
bright-red flowers ; produced abundantly in September.

W. brevifolia. — Flowers bright orange.

W. rosea. — Bright, rosy flowers ; a tall, handsome plant.

W. marginata. — A noble species, with large, salver-
shaped, pink flowers. A native of low, sandy hills at the
Cape of Good Hope, where it is very abundant.

W. punctata, plantaginia, and spicata are singular plants,
with flowers having little resemblance to the rest of the
family.

All the Watson-las are subject to the attacks of red spider,
which must be carefully guarded against. All are hand-
some, and should be grown where there is room. ,

THE SYNNOTIA.

A family of only three species of Cape bulbs, of easy
culture in sandy loam,, and requiring only the usual culture
of Cape bulbs in the greenhouse. They are not handsome
enough to be generally cultivated, when we have so many
more showy species. The flowers somewhat resemble
gladiolus in appearance.

THE ANOMATHECA. 197

S. variegata. — Flowers dark blue, marked with yellow.

S. bicolor. — Flowers bright yellow, with the superior
petal tipped with purple.

S. galatea greatly resembles this.

These plants are also classed with ixia and gladiolus, and
are now generally referred to the latter family.

THE ANOMATHECA.

One of the most sparkling little bulbs for house-culture.
The bulbs are small, and should be potted in November, in
sandy loam : during the winter they will make a good
growth of bright-green foliage, and, beginning to bloom in
May, will produce a succession of brilliant, scarlet-crimson
flowers all summer. The plants should be allowed to rest
from September until the planting season. Propagated
'by offsets, which are freely produced, and by seeds
which bloom the second year, and vegetate without any
care.

The species are, —

A. cruenta. — Flowers very brilliant, and the best species.
We have grown this species in the open ground ; but the
flowers are so small, they do not appear as well as in a pot.

198

THE ANTHOLYZA.

A prettier plant for summer decoration of the conservatory
it would be difficult to find.

A.juncea. — A free-flowering species, with pink flowers,
stained with a dark spot at the base. Very pretty, but not
so showy as the last.

THE ANTHOLYZA.

A tall-growing family of Cape bulbs, usually too large for
greenhouse culture, and not hardy enough to stand our
winters.

The flowers are large, showy, and freely produced. The
plants are of easy growth under the ordinary treatment

THE RIGIDELLA. 199

given to Cape bulbs, and propagate readily by seeds and
offsets.

The principal species are, —

A. jEthiopica. — Dark-red flowers.

A. prcealata. — Yellowish-orange.

A. tnontana. — Brown, fragrant flowers. There are other
species of no special merit.

A. cunonia, quadrangularis, and splendens are sometimes
called ANISANTHUS.

THE RIGIDELLA.

A beautiful family, with only three species, of which R.
flammea, which grows about three feet high, with broad-
plaited leaves, is the best known. The flowers are dark
crimson, very handsome, drooping ; but the seed-pod becomes
erect after the fading of the flower.

The plant is of easy culture in rich, light soil, and should
be treated like a tigridia. It is a native of Mexico, and was
introduced in 1838. We have bloomed this plant very suc-
cessfully in a pot.

The other species are E. immaculata and orthantha, and
are of dwarfer habit.

XIV.

THE AMARYLLIS, HIPPEASTRUM, SPREKELIA, VALLOTA,
LYCORIS, PYROLIRION, NERINE, ZEPHYRANTHES.

THE AMARYLLIS.

HILE most of the species of this numerous
family are greenhouse bulbs, and tender,
a few bloom in summer in the garden.
We speak popularly, considering all the
families of Hippeastrum, Vallota, Spre-
Jcelia, as Amaryllis, to which family they
formerly belonged ; but the more recent
classifications have left but few true ama-

ryllis, and the old genus has been separated into many new

families.

The mode of culture to be pursued with the tender

species is given at length in a recent volume of " The

Cottage Gardener," from which we quote.

200

THE AMARYLLIS. 201

The Hippeastrums are, with few exceptions, natives of
the tropics ; but, owing to the different elevations at which
they are found, some are greenhouse and others stove plants.
In their native habitats they are inured to a period of almost
continual wet, and undergo a corresponding period of dry-
ness. The heat is most intense when the plants are ripen-
ing their bulbs, or at rest ; and least when making their
growth, or developing. In cultivation, they require abun-
dant moisture and nourishment when growing ; but, after the
foliage has attained to full size, they require no more water
than just sufficient to keep the leaves from flagging. Per-
fect drainage must be secured. The soil should be strong
yellow loam and sand. Leaf-mould and other vegetable
matter is to be avoided. Too much heat, when growing, is
injurious, as it creates drawn foliage, and injures the bulbs.
They require as much if not more heat when at rest than
when growing ; and, though this may seem the reverse of good
management, it is only what they receive in their native
habitats. The roots remain on the bulbs throughout the
year : taking them out of the pots when at rest, therefore,
robs the bulbs of that which Nature has supplied to collect
food for the support of the flower-scape.

The practice of taking the bulbs out of the pots, and stor-

202 THE AMARYLLIS.

ing them near the flues to ripen them, is faulty ; for, when
potted, the bulbs have immediately to be plunged into bot-
tom-heat, that new roots may be quickly formed to support
the flower-stem, as otherwise the flowers fail to expand.

Deep, narrow pots, eight inches in depth, and double the
diameter of the bulbs, are the best pots to grow them in.

Frequent potting and plenty of pot-room are not neces-
sary ; and potting a plant because the pot is full of roots
will frequently prevent its flowering. The pot can never
be too full of roots, as the bulbs flower all the better
for being cramped: and as long as the drainage is per-
fect, and the soil is sweet, it is immaterial how long the
plants are kept in the same soil and pots ; only the offsets
should be removed to prevent them from weakening the
parent.

The bulbs should be potted as soon as received in a com-
post of old, turfy, yellow loam, not sifted, but lumpy ; add
to this one-sixth of sharp sand, and in this pot the bulbs,
the neck being level with the top of the pot, and the soil
carefully put round the sides and pressed gently down, leav-
ing a hollow of half an inch at the top of the pot for water-
ing, the bulb being covered to the neck with soil. Finish
with a copious watering.

THE AMARYLLIS. 203

This same method is to be pursued in transplanting, tak-
ing care not to injure the roots. Perfect drainage must be
secured both in potting and repotting.

The newly received bulbs, having been potted, should be
placed in a hot-bed, under a flue or any dry place where
the temperature will vary little from 50°. Let them remain
for about six weeks, and receive no water after potting until
the leaves appear. They should then be plunged into a hot
bed of about 70° temperature. The bulbs will soon show
the leaves and flower-scape, when they must be slightly
watered, gradually increasing the quantity as growth pro-

In a few weeks the plants will be in flower, when they
may be removed to the parlor or conservatory. After the
bloom is over, remove them to the greenhouse, and keep them
duly supplied with water and liquid manure until the strong-
est growth is attained, which will be in July if the bulbs
have been potted in January, which is the most suitable
time. Then place the bulbs on a shelf near the glass, in
full sun, and gradually diminish the supply of water so as to
have them at rest by the beginning of October. They may
then be stored away in the pots near the flue so as not to
roast them, and no more water be given.

204 THE AMARYLLIS.

Some of them need no hot-bed treatment ; for example,
Sprekelia (Amaryllis) formosissimus, the well-known Jaco-
bean lily, and Hippeastrum vittatum : these do well in ordi-
nary greenhouse treatment, and are among the handsomest
of the family. The great rule to be remembered in amaryl-
lis-growing is never to water the bulbs until they show
signs of growth, unless they are plunged in bottom-heat,
but allow them a natural season of rest. They will begin
growing when they are ready ; and watering before the
leaves appear helps to produce decay in the bulb, and de-
stroys the roots. No set time can be given for starting
amaryllis into growth, or for repotting them. The bulbs
do not all start into growth at once, nor do all grow equally.
Some are late, some are early ; but, when the leaves cease
to elongate, the growth has been made. In general, the
plants start into growth in January, and attain their full
growth, and need repotting, in July ; but they never need
potting while the drainage is perfect and the soil is sweet.
After potting, the plants should be kept on a shady shelf
for a few days, to recover from the check produced by the
operation : they may then be removed to the shelf in the
greenhouse, near the glass, and treated as before directed.
The care to be taken is that the green foliage does not flag

THE AMARYLLIS. 205

for want of water. Any bulbs which seem disposed to
remain evergreen should not be forced into rest by with-
holding water ; but just enough should be given, and very
little will be required, to prevent the leaves from flag-
ging-

The temperature from January to June should be 55° to
60°, and, if plenty of air is given, may rise from 75° to 80°
in the sun. From June to October, from 60° to 65°, and
rising from 80° to 90°, will do no harm. From October to
January, a dry atmosphere, never below 50°, or exceeding
60°, suits them.

It not unfrequently happens, when the growth is made
early, say by May, and water gradually withheld after
that time, that the plants will rest at midsummer, lose a
number of leaves, and give a fine bloom in autumn, in
addition to flowering in spring. Any bulbs which seem
disposed to rest at midsummer should be encouraged to do
so, and water withheld, as continued waterings would only
produce a weak second growth.

Plants flowering twice will make a second growth after
the second flowering, Avhich must be well supported by
waterings of liquid manure, and abundance of water, until
perfected ; when the bulbs may be dried off, as before

206 THE AMARYLLIS.

directed. This treatment is proper for most of the family.
Any peculiar mode of culture required by any species will
be noticed in the description of that species.

Seed may be sown, as soon as it is ripe, in a mixture of
dry loam and leaf-mould. Place a seed in the centre of a
very small pot, and just cover it with sand. If the sowing
is in spring, or before June, place in a hot-bed, with a heat
of 70°, and keep moderately moist. When the seedlings
appear above the soil, water more abundantly, and keep
them growing as long as they seem disposed. They may
be kept evergreen for a couple of years, allowing only a
season of rest by giving less water when they seem least
disposed to grow. After the second season, they should be
treated as old plants ; and the greater part will flower the
third year. Seed sown in autumn should be kept on a dry
shelf until spring, and then started into growth in heat, as
above.

The following are species : —

Hippeastrum aulicum. — Green and scarlet ; Brazil.

H. aulicum platypetalum. — Orange; Brazil.

H. aulicum glaucophyllum. — Crimson and green ; Brazil.

H. psitticinum. — Green and red ; Brazil.

H. solandrceflorum. — White ; Guiana.

THE AMARYLLIS. 207

Var. rubro-striatum. — White and red.

Var. purpurascens. — White and purple.

H. calyptratum. — Green and red ; Brazil.

H. stylosum. — Coppery orange.

H. regince. — Scarlet and green.

H. reticulatum. — Purplish-red ; Brazil.

Var. striatifoUum. — Purple; Brazil.

H. crocatum. — Saffron ; Brazil.

H. equestre. — Scarlet ; West Indies.

Var. major. — Scarlet ; West Indies.

Var. plenum^. — Scarlet ; West Indies.

H. fulgidum. — Orange-scarlet ; Brazil.

H. ignescens. — Bright orange.

H. rutilum. — Scarlet.

H. vittatum. — White and red, striped ; Cape of Good
Hope.

Var. majus. — White and red, striped; Cape of Good
Hope.

H. ambiguum longiflorum. — White and red ; Lima.

If. anomalum. — Crimson and green.

H. Organense. — Crimson and white ; Brazil.

H. pulverulentum. — Orange ; Brazil.

H. princeps. — Scarlet ; Brazil.

208 THE AMARYLLIS.

The following are fine hybrid varieties : —

H. Ackermanni. — Crimson, two flowers on a scape. The
variety pulcherrima has larger flowers, and four on a scape.

H. Johnsoni. — Scarlet and white, a cross between regi-
nce and vittatum. The variety striata has clearer stripes.

H. brilliant. — Scarlet.

H. delicata. — A stripe down centre of the leaf ; flowers
scarlet and white.

If. Cleopatra. — Dark red, edged with white.

H. marginata conspicua. — White, with crimson stripes ;
one of the best.

H. Prince of Orange. — Bright orange.

H. ignea. — Brilliant scarlet.

H. crocea grandiflora. — Orange-scarlet, marked with
white.

AMARYLLIS BELLADONNA. — This exquisite species is a
native of the Cape. Its culture is very easy, if care be
taken to grow the foliage well. It thrives well under the
general treatment given above ; but will also bloom in the
border in the summer, if planted in June. The lovely spike
of flowers shoots up in August, followed by the leaves. As,
however, the foliage has no time to ripen before cut down
by the frost, it is well to plunge it in the border in a pot ;

THE SPREKELIA. — THE VALLOTA. 209

and, before the first frost, remove the pot to the greenhouse
to mature the leaves, as, otherwise, the bulb will not flower
the second year.

A. llanda. — A finer and larger species, but more tender,
requiring greenhouse culture, as we have directed above.
Flowers delicate blush-white, ; a native of the Cape.

A. pallida and latifolia are varieties of A. Belladonna.

THE SPREKELIA.

Sprekelia (Amaryllis) formosissimus. — A lovely species,
very different in form from the remainder of the family.
The flowers are most brilliant scarlet, and are produced
before the leaves. The bulbs of this species may be planted
in the open border in May. They will bloom in June, and
before October ripen their growth ; when they may be taken
up, and hung up in a frost-proof, dry cellar, until spring.
They may also be grown in pots, in water, or in moss.
The plant is generally known as Jacobean lily.

THE VALLOTA.

Vallota (amaryllis) purpurea. — This species is evergreen ;
and, as its flowers and leaves are seen together, it is one of

the most ornamental plants of the family. It is a native
14

210 THE LYCORIS. — THE PYROLIRION.

of the Cape, and is found in wet situations. The plants
grow freely in sandy peat and leaf-mould, and require
plenty of water. The offsets are produced so freely as
almost to choke the parent plant. The flowers are brilliant
scarlet, and are produced in great profusion in summer.
The usual treatment is to grow the bulb all the time, only
giving rather less water in winter.

This species is very common, and not unfrequently seen
growing in old bowls and pitchers in cottage-windows.

THE LYCORIS.

A very pretty family, nearly allied to Nerine, but natives
of China. All the species grow well in light, sandy soil.

L. aurea has bright-yellow flowers in August.

L. radiata has dingy-pink flowers in June, and is a shy
bloomer.

L. straminea has striped flowers in June.

All need greenhouse culture, and to be treated like Cape
bulbs.

THE PYROLIRION.

A family of two species of rare bulbs, with tubular flow-
ers, resembling zephyrauthes ; natives of Peru ; flowering in
summer before the leaves are fully grown, and requiring

THE NERINE. 211

rest from December to April. Soil, a sandy loam and leaf-
mould.

The species are P. aureum and flavum^ with orange and
yellow flowers respectively.

THE NERINE.

The general rule in the growth of this splendid genus is
briefly laid down by Mr. Herbert : " To promote the flower-
ing of the nerines, a vigorous growth of leaf must be encour-
aged in the autumn : the requisites are warmth enough to
excite them, and air enough to prevent their growing weak.
During the winter, they must not be allowed to lose their
foliage either by frost or drought. About May, they should
be allowed to rest by ceasing to water them. After about
three months' rest, they may be watered again to promote
their growth at the very beginning of September." "When
we add to this, that all the species require a light, sandy
soil, we have given full directions for the culture of the
nerine.

The flowers of many of the species are very beautiful ; but
many have the fault of blooming before the leaves.

Most are natives of the Cape ; but the Guernsey lily

212 THE NERINE.

comes from Japan originally, and N. undulata from
China.

None of the species are hardy with us, but require green-
house protection.

N. sarniensis. — This is the Guernsey lily so common in
England, producing its heads of red flowers before the
leaves. The bulbs are usually imported, just as they are
coming into bloom, from the Isle of Guernsey, where they
are grown in great quantities.

By growing the foliage well, the bulb will flower again in
a year or two ; but, in England, it is generally thrown away
after blooming.

N. rosea. — A fine species, with pink flowers.

3?. curvifolia. — A fine plant, with brilliant scarlet flow-
ers. This species flowers freely, and may be forced into
bloom any month in the year, although it naturally blooms
in September.

N. corusca. — A species producing large heads of salmon-
colored flowers, but not very free-flowering.

N. venusta. — A species much resembling N. sarniensis,
but producing leaves and flowers at the same time, and
blooming earlier than other species.

N. flexuosa. — A species with pink flowers.

THE ZEPHYRANTHES. 213

N. humilis. — A species with pink flowers and of low
growth.

All the species, of which there are ten, deserve more atten-
tion than they receive from amateurs. They seed freely, and
cross with each other ; but hybrids have not been produced
between them and any other of the Amaryllis family.

THE ZEPHYRANTHES.

A pretty genus, of which some species are common in
greenhouses. The flowers are delicately colored, and pro-

214 THE ZEPHYRANTHES.

duced one on a stem, but in great profusion. A turfy loam,
mixed with a half of pure sand, will grow them well.
They flower during the summer, and may be dried off in
winter by being placed on a shelf under the stage.

They increase rapidly by offsets, and in time will so fill
the pot as to burst it to pieces.

There are ten species, of which the most common are

Z. rosea. — A native of Cuba, very ornamental from the
profusion of rosy flowers produced all summer.

Z. Atamasco. — A lovely species; a native of Virginia,
where it is called the Atamasco lily, producing rosy flow-
ers, which, with age, turn to pure white, in spring.

2. Candida. — A* species with white flowers, much re-
sembling a white crocus. The leaves are flat and fleshy, and
both leaves and flowers are very showy.

It is a native of Buenos Ayres, blooming with us all
summer.

The other species, of which we may mention Z. carinata,
verecunda, tubespatha, and mesochloa, are all pretty.

XV.

THE TUBEROSE, CYCLAMEN, DAHLIA, COMMELINA, AND
VARIOUS TUBERS.

THE TUBEROSE.

HILE generally called a bulb, the
tuberose is properly a tuber ; but
this and some other plants of
similar nature may well find a
place in the present volume.

There are two species of tuberose, — that commonly grown,
Polianthes tuberosa, a native of the East Indies, and its
double variety, much more common but no handsomer than
the single ; and P. gracilis, a native of Brazil, with light
yellow flowers.

The whole secret of blooming the tuberose successfully is
in giving the roots plenty to feed upon, and in keeping them

215

216 THE TUBEROSE.

warm. The ordinary culture keeps the tops warm, and is
successful in producing a great amount of foliage.

The tuberose of the garden is a native of the East Indies,
and was introduced about 1630. Our dried roots are an-
nually imported from Italy, where they are grown in great
quantities for exportation. The day is probably not far
distant when we shall be able to grow tuberoses in this
country : the experiment has been successfully tried in New
Jersey, and bulbs quite as good as any imported have been
produced, some of which are now flowering finely in our
garden, with as stout spikes and as large flowers as the
imported bulbs beside them.

The bulbs for blooming should be carefully selected ;
those being chosen which are full and plump, and with a
sound heart. Pot them in eight-inch pots, singly, in a com-
post of well-rotted manure or the remnants of an old hot-
bed, sandy peat and loam or leaf-mould, with a little char-
coal dust ; leaving only the crown of the bulb above the soil.
Before filling in the compost, place a crock over the hole on
the bottom of the pot, and crumble it quarter full of old
cow-droppings which have been exposed to the winter in
the pasture.

All offsets should be removed previous to planting.

THE TUBEROSE. 217

Plunge the pots to their rims in a hotbed ; and, having
given a good watering, cover up the frames with the sash,
and cover the sash with a shutter. Examine them daily to
see that the heat is not too violent ; 75° to 80° is sufficient :
but they will not need any water until they begin to grow,
which will be in a few days. After they are fairly in
growth, remove the lights in fine weather, and give all the
sun and air possible ; but, in cold or frosty weather, keep
the sashes on.

The first planting should be about the middle of April ;
and plantings may be made for succession, at intervals of a
fortnight, up to the first of June. As the plants grow,
increase the water ; and, as summer advances, remove the
sashes entirely : the object is to get as sturdy a growth as
possible. There is no danger that a tuberose will not be tall
enough. Keep them in the pots, and keep the pots together
in the hotbed, until the spikes begin to expand their
flowers, when the pots may be removed to the piazza, or
parlor, or plunged in the garden.

In choosing the position for the hotbed, let it be in full
sunshine, and in the hottest possible place. If you supply
plenty of water, you cannot get a situation too hot ; but the
pots must always be shaded from the sun, which, if kept in

218 THE CYCLAMEN.

the hotbed, they are sure to be. By pursuing this treat-
ment, the flowers will begin to expand about the middle of
July, and continue until the first of November, or later,
if housed on the approach of frosty weather. The foliage
of the plant, if propagation is an object, should never be
touched by the frost ; and, in winter, the bulbs should be kept
in a warm, dry cellar. Propagation is effected by means
of offsets, which are freely produced, and should be planted
in spring, in rich, light soil, in a sunny exposure. Flowers
may be expected from them the third year.

THE CYCLAMEN.

There is no more ornamental plant for greenhouse or
parlor culture than the cyclamen. It grows readily, flowers
freely ; the foliage is neat, the flowers handsome, and last
long in perfection ; and, with all these merits, it has no
faults. From being long utterly neglected, the cyclamen
has recently attracted much attention in England : fine new
hybrids have been produced, and the horticultural journals
have been filled with reports of cyclamen culture.

The cyclamen thrives well in a soil composed of equal
parts of turfy loam, peat, leaf-mould, and silver-sand, well

THE CYCLAMEN. 219

mixed together, and not sifted. The autumn-blooming
species, such as Europceum, should be potted in August ;
the winter-flowering, in September or October. The pots
used should be three times the diameter of the bulb, well
drained, and filled with the compost ; so that the crown of
the bulb, when planted, will be level with the rim of the
pot, leaving about half an inch all around for watering.
Water slightly, to settle the soil ; and plunge the pots in
coal-ashes, in a cold frame, shading from the sun. Keep
them thus, with but little water, till growth begins ; then
give more water, and plenty of light and air, covering them
carefully when the nights become cold. They may be
grown in frames until the approach of very cold weather,
when they may be removed to the parlor or to the green-
house ; in either case, being placed in situations where they
may receive all possible supplies of light and air, and very
near the glass. The temperature should not be much
higher than 50° until they begin to bloom ; the secret of
cyclamen culture being light, air, and a low temperature.
In England, they are kept in frames all winter, being only
removed to the house when about to bloom ; but the severity
'of our winters would probably render such culture unsuc-
cessful in New England, as the plants might damp off when

220 THE CYCLAMEN.

shut np for many days in succession, as they might be dur-
ing a continuance of cold weather. When the foliage
begins to decay, water should be withheld, and discontinued
altogether after a few weeks. The pots may then be placed
in a cool, dry situation, out of direct sunshine, where they
can have pure air ; but the soil should never be allowed to
become dry as dust, or the bulb to shrivel. Some culti-
vators bury the bulb in the pot in the open ground ; and,
when uncovered in the autumn, the bulb is plump and
fresh.

The cyclamen is propagated by seed. The root is a
solid corm, and cannot be successfully divided ; and the
plants sometimes obtained by taking off the little crowns
of old bulbs are seldom strong and healthy. The seed
should be gathered as soon as ripe, dried, and sown in
February, in shallow pots or pans, rather thinly, in a com-
post of peat, loam, and sand, and the pans be placed in a
cold frame, or on a shelf in the greenhouse, near the glass.
The plants soon appear, and make a leaf and a bulb as
large as a small pea the first year. In spring, turn them
out of the pots into a shady place in the garden, and let
them remain until September. Then pot each separately in
small pots, in a compost of turfy loam, leaf-mould, and

THE CYCLAMEN. 221

silver-sand, placing the little bulb about half above the soil.
Place the pots on a light, airy shelf in the greenhouse,
watering moderately during the winter, and taking care
that the soil does not become sodden. Continue this culture
year by year, accommodating the size of the pots to that
of the bulbs. Seedlings bloom the third year.

C. coum. — Leaves bright green, with red on the under-
side ; flowers bright red, produced external to the leaves,
to which they form a margin. A native of the south of
Europe, blooming in February and March, but sometimes
earlier. It has no fragrance.

C. Neapolitanum. — Flowers red, or rosy pink, blooming
from October to Christmas, and succeeded by the foliage.
It goes to rest in April and May. A variety, album, has
white flowers. Neither is fragrant.

C. Eurnpceum. — A species with very variable foliage.
The leaves are heart-shaped, sometimes roundish, but never
as round as C. coum ; sometimes beautifully marbled. In
one variety they are very large, and the plant is almost an
evergreen and continuous blooming. . The bulbs are knotty
and irregular, but sometimes round, smooth, and flat. The
flowers are red, rose, or pure white, deliciously fragrant, and
produced in August.

222 THE CYCLAMEN. ,

G. repandum. — • This species resembles C. Neapolitanum,
but blooms in spring, showing bright rose-flowers in April.
It blooms later than any other species.

C. vernum. — This species resembles C. coum, but is
larger in every way : the flowers have a decided purple
shade, and the leaves a white marking. It blooms in
November, and continues in bloom until February or
March.

C. Atkinsi. — A hybrid, between C. coum and C. Per-
sicum. The leaves are large, often two and a half to
three inches by two to two and a half inches ; deep, glossy-
green, with a pale zone within the margin ; the under-side a
dull reddish-purple. The flowers are white, with crimson
eye : there are many varieties of all shades of white and
red. The flowers expand from January to April, and are
scentless.

C. Africanum is C. Neapolitanum, with larger foliage.

G. Ibericum has flat, heart-shaped leaves, deep green,
with gray band, and reddish-purple underneath. Flowers
pale rose, with a tinge of purple, with deep crimson spot at
base of the segments, extending through to the mouth.
Blooms in November, or through the winter, according to
treatment.

THE CYCLAMEN. 223

C. Persicum. — Leaves variously heart-shaped, toothed
at the edge ; deep green, with gray or white marbling, and
pale flesh-color on the under-side. Flowers on tall stalks,
white, blotched with crimson at the base, petals very long.
It flowers in autumn, winter, or spring, according to treat-
ment. The varieties are, —

C. Persicum rubrum. — Purplish crimson.

G. Persicum purpureum. — Purplish red.

C. Persicum stellatum. — White, with starry spots on each
petal.

C. Persicum delicatum. — White, pink centre.

C. Persicum album. — Pure white.

C. Persicum roseum. — Rosy red.

C. Persicum roseum coccineum. — Rose, scarlet centre.

C. Persicum odoratum. — White, rose-eye, fragrant.

C. Persicum odoratum rubrum. — Rosy red, fragrant.

C. Persicum striatum. — Striped and spotted rose, on white

19

ground.

(7. Persicum marginatum. — Shaded rose.

There are many other varieties, as seedlings vary very
much ; but those above given are the most distinct. The
above list has been condensed from a carefully written

224 THE DAHLIA.

article in an English magazine, which is the most satis-
factory statement of species we have seen.

The frame culture of cyclamen is worth a trial in this
country. How charming it would be, if, as in England, we
could grow cyclamen like Neapolitan violets !

THE DAHLIA.

This is still in England one of the most popular florists'
flowers, though in this country the hollyhock and gladiolus
have drawn away many of its admirers. The plant is a
native of Mexico ; and the original species, which are single-
rayed flowers, were introduced into cultivation about the
beginning of the present century.

These are, however, long lost to cultivation, unless they
exist in botanic gardens ; and indeed, though rather pretty
and curious, are not, as species, especially desirable. The
chief species are D. scapigera, crocata, frustranea^ excelsa,
lutea, superflua, and Barlcerice ; and from these the florists'
flowers of the present day have sprung.

The dahlia thrives best in a rich, deep, friable soil, which
should be trenched, and well manured with thoroughly decom-
posed manure. The plants should be set out in the latter

THE DAHLIA. 225

part of May, five feet apart every way ; and, as they grow,
be tied to tall stakes.

The best flowers will be produced in September, after the
nights become cool. After the frost has killed the tops,

the tubers should be taken up, and stored in dry sand until

*
spring.

The dahlia is propagated by cuttings of the young spring
shoots, which may be taken off and rooted in a frame in
spring, or by division of the roots ; every eye, with a portion
of root attached, making a plant. It may also be raised
from seed sown in April, in small pots, and the seedlings
transplanted.

The characteristics of a good dahlia as a florist's flower
are, —

1. The flower should be a perfect circle when viewed in
front ; the petals should be broad at the ends, smooth at the
edges, thick in substance, perfectly free from indenture or
point, and stiff to hold their form ; the flower should cup a
little, but not enough to show the under-surface. They
should be in regular rows, forming an outline of a perfect
circle, without any vacancy between them ; and all in the
circle should be the same size, uniformly opened to the same
shape, and not crumpled.

15

226 THE DAHLIA.

2. The flower should form two-thirds of a ball when
looked at sideways. The row of petals should rise, one
above another, symmetrically : every petal should cover the
joining of the two petals under it, — what the florists call
imbricating, — by which means the circular appearance is
perfected throughout.

3. The centre should be perfect : the unbloomed petals,
lying with their points towards the centre, should form a
button, and should be the highest part of the flower, com-
pleting the ball.

4. The flower should be symmetrical. The petals should
open boldly, without showing their under-side, even when
half opened ; and should form circular rows, uniformly laid,
evenly opened, and enlarging by degrees to the outer row
of all.

5. The flowers should be very double. The rows of
petals lying one above another should cover one another
very nearly : not more should be seen in depth than half
the breadth. The more they are covered, so as to leave them
distinct, the better in that respect : the petals, therefore,
though cupped, must be shallow.

6. The size of the flower when well grown should be
four inches in diameter, and not more than six.

THE COMMELINA. 227

7. The color should be dense, whatever it be ; not as if it
were a white dipped in color, but as if the whole flower was
colored throughout. Whether tipped or edged, it must be
free from splashes or blotches, or indefinite marks of any
kind ; and new flowers, unless they are superior to all old
ones of the same color, or are of a novel color themselves,
with a majority of the points of excellence, should be
rejected.

As in dahlias the newest varieties are supposed to be the
best, and as each year gives us many new varieties, the best
list can be obtained from florists' latest catalogues.

THE COMMELINA.

These pretty little plants are natives of America ; and
(some have tuberous roots, which are eatable.

They should be raised from seed from which they bloom
the first year. When the frost has killed the foliage, the
roots should be taken up, preserved in dry sand until spring
in a frost-proof cellar, and planted out like any tender
tuber.

The species are, —

G. codestis. — Flowers blue or white.

228 THE SAL VIA. — ASCLEPIAS. — APIOS.

C. communis. — Flowers bluish purple.

C. tuberosa. — Flowers blue.

There are many other species, mostly with blue flowers.

SAL VIA.

One species of the salvia, S. patens, has a tuberous root.
The seeds should be sown in the greenhouse or a frame in
April, and the plants pricked out into the garden, where
they bloom the first year. On the approach of cold weather,
they should be taken up, and treated as directed for comme-
lina.

ASCLEPIAS.

One species of the silkworts, or milkweeds, is a hardy
tuber.

Asclepias tuberosa is one of the most showy plants in the
garden in July. The flowers are deep orange. The plant
is hardy, and, once well established, will bloom freely for
years. It delights in a rich, deep, light soil, in which the
roots strike to a great depth.

APIOS.

A. tuberosa is a pretty, pea-like vine, with hard tuberous
roots, commonly known as " ground-nuts." The plant is

THE APIOS.

229

climbing, and in August produces large clusters of deli-
ciously fragrant, reddish-purple flowers.

A native of North America, and not uncommon in shady
thickets ; perfectly hardy ; and, once planted in good soil, it
will take care of itself.

OST generally called a violet, this plant * is a
true lily, and the smallest of the tribe. Why it
should be called a dog-tooth violet, who can
say ? «

All the species are natives of Europe and America, and
delight in a soil containing an abundance of decaying vege-
table matter. All bloom in very early spring, and have
ornamental foliage. The bulbs are very impatient of
drought, and, when transplanted, should be kept as short a
time as possible out of the ground. The best time for trans-
planting is just after the foliage has died away, which will
* Erythrouium.

THE BULBOCODIUM. 231

be in June ; but the plants should seldom be disturbed. As,
individually, they are small and low-growing, they should
always be planted two inches deep, in clumps, and on the
front of the bed.

E. dens canis. — This species is a native of the south of
Europe, and varies much,- from white to deep purple, in the
color of its flowers. It is perfectly hardy, and blooms early
in May. The foliage is beautifully variegated.

E. Americanum. — The well-known species of our woods,
with drooping flowers, brown outside, and bright-yellow
inside. It requires a rich, peaty soil, and a moist, shady
situation, to bloom well.

There are varieties of this with larger flowers.

THE BULBOCODIUM.

A pretty little plant, greatly resembling a crocus, and
thriving and flowering well in the spring border under the
same treatment.

The species are B. vernum, Caucasicum, and versicolor, all
spring-flowering and perfectly hardy. B. Caucasicum is
sometimes called MERENDERA CAUCASICA.

232 THE COLCHICUM.

THE COLCHICUM.

All plants of this family resemble the crocus, and are
commonly known as autumnal crocus, or meadow saffron.
The botanical difference consists in the crocus having three
stamens, and the colchicum six ; the colchicum also produ-
cing many more flowers from the same bulb.

All the family are natives of Europe or Asia. These
plants need only to be planted in common garden-loam, where
they increase very rapidly, and flower freely. All are per-
fectly hardy. The peculiarity of the plant is its producing
its flower in the autumn, and throwing up the foliage and
ripening its seed in the next spring.

C. autumnale. — A pretty species, throwing some six or
eight flowers from each bulb in November. The flowers
are purple, and there are white and double varieties.

C. Byzantinum. — A native of Turkey, with large bulbs,
— each producing sixteen to twenty flowers in autumn, —
succeeded by the leaves in May. The flowers are pur-
ple.

There are other species ; but they are seldom cultivated,
though perfectly hardy.

THE ERANTHES. — THE TROP^OLUM. 233

THE ERANTHES.

The winter aconite (Eravthes hyemalis) is a simple little
yellow flower, valuable for its early blooming, and contrast-
ing well with the snowdrops, which are the only flowers to
keep it company at the early season at which it blooms.

The flower is about three inches high, produced one on
each of a pair of flat-lobed leaves, which terminate the stalk.
The root is tuberous, and resembles a lump of hard peat-
earth.

It needs only to be planted in the border, and left to itself.
It is a native of England. There is another species, a
native of Siberia (E. Siberica), also with yellow flowers,
and equally hardy.

THE TROP^EOLUM.

The tuberous species of this family bear little resem-
blance to our common nasturtiums. They are generally
tender greenhouse-plants, of delicate growth, and proper
subjects for careful culture. They are natives of South
America ; and one, T. azureum, has flowers of the finest
blue in the floral kingdom.

The tubers should be potted when the thread-like stem is

234 THE OPERANTHUS.

seen starting from the top of the bulb, in rich, sandy loam,
in not over-large pots. The plants should be given plenty
of sun and air, and the hair-like stems daily twined round
a trellis. After the bloom has faded, the foliage turns
yellow, and the root should be allowed to rest. Growth
generally begins in autumn ; and the plant flowers in early
spring, resting in summer. The chief species are, —

T. brachyceras. — Flowers yellow.

T. Jarattii. — Flowers scarlet and yellow.

T. azureum. — Flowers blue.

T. tricolorum. — Flowers orange, red, and purple. These
are among the most graceful plants in the greenhouse ; free-
growers, with high-colored and very curious flowers, and, in
T. azureum, delightfully fragrant. Trained round a balloon-
trellis, they make fine specimens. A singular fact in their
growth is, that the stem, which, where it joins the bulb, is as
.fine as a hair, is often found to increase in size in its
growth, and, in a distance of several feet, may be three or
four times larger.

THE OPERANTHUS.

This little bulb is often found in florists' catalogues under
the name of Amaryllis lutea. It is also called yellow colchi-

THE MUSCARI. 235

cum. The flower resembles a yellow crocus, and is pro-
duced in October ; the foliage continuing to grow during
the winter.

In England it is hardy, and contrasts well with beds of
colchicum ; but it does not stand our winters, and there-
fore must be grown in a pot in the greenhouse. Soil,
common loam.

The species is 0. luteus, a native of Tangiers ; and there
is a variety with narrow leaves.

THE MUSCARI.

These plants, commonly known as musk or grape hya-
cinths, are common in every garden. They require no
particular culture, and increase and flower well year after
year. As they are rather dwarf, they should be planted in
the front of the flower-border. They propagate freely by
offsets or seeds.

M. moschatum. — This, the common musk-hyacinth, is
readily known by the strong smell of musk. The flowers
are purple when they expand, but gradually become
yellowish. A native of Turkey.

M. macrocarpum. — A more showy plant than the last,
and easily known by its large size and brilliant colors.

M. comosum. — The well-known tufted hyacinth, of easy

236

THE LACHENALIA.

culture in common garden-soil. The feathered hyacinth is
a variety of this species.

M. botryoides. — This is the best known and finest of the
family. The flower-spikes look like little bunches of grapes ;
whence the name of the family. From their peculiar
fragrance, the plant is often called "Baby's Breath."

There are light and dark blue, and an almost black
variety ; also a white one, which is very pretty, and, it is
said, a pink one. A native of Italy, and perfectly hardy.

THE LACHENALIA.

A family of Cape bulbs, of easy culture in the green-

THE STERNBERGIA. 237

house, under the usual treatment of Cape bulbs. They
require a sandy soil, and are often, when well grown, orna-
mental ; but the plants are small, and make but little show.
The foliage of some of the species is prettily variegated.

There are twenty or thirty species, all flowering in spring
or winter, of which the best are

L. pendula. — Scarlet and green flowers.

L. quadricolor. — Scarlet and green.

L. luteola. — Yellow.

L. tricolor. — Red, green, and yellow.

L. unifolia. — Green.

L. anguinea. — White, variegated foliage.

L. purpureo coerulea. — Blue and purple.

THE STERNBERGIA.

A family of autumn-blooming bulbs, with yellow flowers,
produced, one on a stalk, before the leaves. They grow
and flower freely in sandy loam, but are not very orna-
mental. Treatment the same as for Operanthus. The
species are S. colchiciflora and Clusiana, both with yellow
flowers ; the former a native of the Crimea, the latter of
Turkey.

XVII.

THE ARUM, CALOCASIA, ERYTHRINA, CANNA, DICENTRAj

THE ARUM.

OST of the plants of this family are
more curious than beautiful ; but the
foliage is generally effective, and the
flowers, from their peculiar appearance,
are worthy of a place in a large collec-
tion.

Some plants once classed with this
genus have been separated to form a
new family called ARIS^EMA, and some
of the large stove species are now known as ALOCASIA and
CALOCASIA. There are about a dozen hardy, and some
twenty greenhouse or stove species. They all thrive in

THE ARUM. 239

sandy loam, with a portion of peat ; and are propagated by

•
division, and rarely by seed. The plants begin to grow in

the spring, when they should be repotted : in the autumn
they rest, and should be allowed to dry off, but never to
become very dry. Some of the stove species, however, are
evergreen.

A. dracunculus is very showy when in bloom.

The most common species are, —

A. (Ariscema) dracontium. — The common green-dragon,
with tall, hand-shaped leaves, and bright-green flowers.
A native of North America, and hardy in any damp garden-
soil.

A. dracunculus. — The well-known dragon-plant, growing
several feet high, with a large, blackish-purple flower.
This species may be potted in autumn, and will bloom in
spring : it should have a rather large pot. With us it
requires greenhouse protection. It is sometimes grown as
a house-plant ; but its rank smell does not recommend it for
the parlor.

A. Italicum. — A small-growing species, with greenish-
yellow flowers, requiring greenhouse treatment with us, and
not very ornamental.

A. tenuifolium. — Also a. low-growing species, with white

240 THE CALOCASIA.

flowers ; a native of the south of Europe, and requiring the
same treatment as A. Itdlicum.

A. (Ariscewii) tripliyllum. — The common Indian turnip,
or Jack in the Pulpit, of our woods. The plant is curious
and ornamental, both in flower and berry. It thrives well
in deep soil, in a shady situation, and often grows very
large.

The stove species are seldom seen in collection.

THE CALOCASIA.

These plants have been separated from arum. They are
generally distinguished for their large leaves, and are grown
as foliaged plants. They require stove treatment. Most
of the species are evergreen ; but some of the deciduous
kinds do well in the border as bedding-out plants, and the
foliage is very ornamental.

C. esculenta. — This is a fine aroideous plant, throwing
up from a flat root, with a prominent tubercle on the top, a
crown of dark, rich green foliage. While in the greenhouse,
it will preserve its foliage most of the year : it does well in
the border as a bedding-plant. The tubers should be
planted in the latter part of May, in a rich soil, in a sunny
situation, about six inches deep. They will soon make

THE ERYTHRINA. 241

growth ; and, by the 1st of August, the plant will have a
crown of rich foliage, some of the leaves being two feet
long. If the roots are forwarded in pots, plunged in a
gentle hotbed, the plants become effective in the garden by
the 1st of July. As an ornament for the border of ponds,
this is a splendid plant.

The soil must be deep, rich, and rather moist, for the full
growth of the foliage. In autumn, take up the roots, dry
and clean them, and keep them in dry sand, in a frost-proof
cellar, until spring.

C. odorata. — This is a stove species, with noble foliage
and very fragrant flowers. The plant is evergreen and
caulescent, growing from three to six feet in height. The
flower is large, greenish yellow, and delightfully fragrant.
The plant requires plenty of room for its roots and leaves ;
and, where sufficient space can be given, it is a noble plant.

THE ERYTHRINA.

A most showy family of plants, which, usually grown with
stove-heat, do well bedded out in the summer.

Most of the family are natives of the tropics, and are
rapid-growing plants, with pinnate leaves, and pea-like flow-
ers of bright or dark red.
16

242 THE EEYTKP.INA.

The shoots proceed from a hard, woody root, in early
spring ; grow rapidly, producing large spikes of bloom in
August ; and, if allowed, will continue growing until the
plant becomes a shrub, or even a small tree. The proper
treatment, however, is to cut off all shoots close to the root,
and allow the plant to rest during the winter, starting it
into growth again in early spring.

The plant is singularly facile in its growth ; for by proper
application of heat, light, and water, it may be had in bloom
any month in the year.

Our plan is to treat it as a bedding-plant.

In April, the roots are planted in a frame, where they
soon make shoots.

When all danger of frost is over, and the chill is out of
the ground, the roots are carefully transplanted to a rich
border, where they grow vigorously, and bloom freely all
summer. When the frost has killed the foliage, the plant is
cut down ; and the roots, packed in dry earth, are preserved
in a warm frost-proof cellar until spring.

The flowers of all are red, dark or dull, or scarlet ; the dif-
ference being in color, foliage, and growth. The plants are
easily propagated by cuttings of the young shoots in spring,
or by cutting up the old flowering stem when ripe, and strik-

THE CANNA. 243

ing the cuttings in sand under a bell-glass, with strong hot-
torn-heat. Seed is also occasionally produced, and vegetates
freely. Within the last few years, the French florists have
raised some fine hybrid varieties, with very brilliant flowers ;
but they are not yet in general cultivation.

The principal species are L. laurifolia^ crista galli, Jierbacea^
speciosa, and macrophylla.

THE CANNA.

These plants, commonly known as Indian shot, are very
conspicuous in the garden as foliaged plants, and some of
the flowers possess no inconsiderable degree of beauty.
Raised from seed, which should be sown in pots, with
gentle bottom-heat, the plants make but little show the first
year ; but when the roots are large, and the plants become
strong, there is no more effective plant in the garden.

The object should be to encourage the growth of the seed-
ling-plants by pricking them out in rich deep soil in order
that the roots may become large. After the frost has killed
the tops, the roots should be carefully lifted, and, with what
little soil adheres to them, placed in flat boxes, and kept in a
dry, frost-proof cellar until spring. In April, place the

244 THE DICENTRA.

roots in a cold frame from which frost is excluded, cover-
ing them with a slight coating of loam, and water them.
They will soon begin to grow ; when they may be divided
into as many parts as there are shoots, and, in the latter
part of May, should be transplanted to the borders. They
are very effective in large beds, as the contrasts of the leaves
of the different species and their beautiful markings are very
fine. The flowers are red, yellow, crimson, or scarlet, in
long spikes. Some species grow six to eight feet long.

G. Nepalensis, viridiflora, gigantea, limbata, and Wars-
zewiczii are fine species. For a long list of species, with
height and color of flowers, see " Garden Flowers."

THE DICENTRA.

These plants, of which the best-known species is the well-
known D. (Dielytra) spectabilis, are hardy ornaments of the
herbaceous border. There are many species, mostly with
fleshy or bulbous roots. Some of our native species, as
D. cucullaria and Canadensis, are very ornamental, and do
well in a shady situation, in rich soil. D. spectabilis requires
only the treatment of common border-plants. If, however,
the plants are allowed to get very large, they decay in the

THE SANGUINARIA. — THE RICHARDIA. 245

centre : therefore they should be taken up and divided every
third year. The plant seeds sparingly, but may be increased
largely by division. There is a white variety. The Euro-
pean bulbous or rather tuberous species are not very orna-
mental or desirable.

THE SANGUINARIA.

This well-known flower, the bloodroot of our woods,
springs from a thick, creeping root-stock.

The flower is white, with a mass of yellow stamens in the
centre, and blooms in early spring ; the flower bud coming up
enveloped in a sheathing-leaf, which, after the fading of the
flower, becomes very large. The plant grows readily in the
border. We have a semi-double chance variety, and have
little doubt but that a double variety might be produced.
S. Canadensis is the only species.

THE RICHARDIA,

Formerly known as the calla, but now as R. ^EtTiiopica: this
plant is one of the best parlor-plants we have.

Its growth is stately ; the flower showy, fragrant, and
freely produced ; and it seems to defy all the injuries which
gas and furnace-heat inflict upon other plants.

246 THE TRILLIUM.

The root is a flattish tuber, and resembles that of other
aroideous plants. The only requisites for successful culture
are rich soil, plenty of water, and pot-room.

It propagates freely by suckers, which should be removed
if a single large plant is the object ; but the better plan is to
keep repotting as the old pot fills with roots, and allowing
all the suckers to remain : a very large plant will be the
result, which will never be out of bloom.

As a bedding-plant in the summer, the calla does well,
producing fine, healthy foliage, but not flowering freely.
In water-scenery, its foliage is very effective.

There is a variety, with foliage spotted with white, which
may be desirable in a collection of foliaged plants.

The plant is a native of Africa, and is killed by the least
frost.

THE TRILLIUM.

These plants are natives of rich woods, but grow well in
the garden, if in deep soil, and not in a very dry situation.
They are among the most beautiful of spring-blooming^
plants, and nothing can exceed the beauty of a large bed
of T. grandiflorum in full bloom. The corm is small,
roundish, and seamed, and generally deep in the ground.

THE TRILLIUM. 247

All are perfectly hardy. They are propagated by division
or by seed, which vegetates with difficulty, and may be
transplanted either in early spring, before blooming, or in
autumn, when the foliage decays. The fruit is a red or
purple berry. All are natives of North America. The
species are, —

T. cernuum. — Flower white, green, and purple centre,
nodding, and hidden beneath the leaves ; the least handsome
species, but very easily grown.

T. sessile. — A low-growing species, with dark-reddish
flowers and variegated foliage.

T. pictum or erythrocarpum. — Flower white, with lake
centre. Rather difficult to cultivate ; does best in moist
peat-soil.

T. grandiflorum. — A noble species, with large white
flowers, changing to rose-color.

T. erectum. — Flowers brownish purple, and with a dis-
agreeable odor.

There are also other species.

'TOVE bulbs and tubers are those which
require a greater heat than can be afforded
by a greenhouse. They are generally
=b natives of the swamps of tropical coun-
tries. During growth, they require heat and moisture, and,
if deciduous, a rest when the leaves begin to turn yellow at
a temperature not lower than 60° ; or, if evergreen, to have
only just water enough to prevent the leaves from flagging.
In the present volume, we propose only to describe a few
of those most commonly cultivated.

THE CALADIUM.

These bulbs were formerly considered arums ; the earliest
known being, even now, commonly called arum bicolor.

248

THE CALADIUM. 249

Those which are in cultivation are natives of the swamps
of the River Amazon, in the province of Para, and, among
foliaged plants, are pre-eminent for graceful growth, and
elegance and brilliancy of marking.

The tubers should be planted in peaty loam and sand, iu
medium-sized pots, when they show signs of growth : but
in this respect they are very accommodating ; for they can
be started into growth any month in the year ; and, by a
little care, a house may be gay with caladia at any season.
Some species continue growing the whole year ; but these
do better if a rest is given by withholding a portion of the
supply of water during three months in the year, and keep-
ing the plants rather cool. As soon as the plants are
potted, they should be set in a warm place, or, if possible,
plunged in a bark-bed, near the flue, to give them a little
bottom-heat, in order to obtain large roots before the tops
begin to grow. When the leaves once start, the plants
should be kept in the warm end of the house, and plenty of
water should be given. Indeed, the foliage grows larger,
and is more highly colored, if the pots are set in pans of
water, and every thing done to encourage large growth ; for,
as the beauty of the plant is the foliage, it should be well
grown. The flowers are poor, and not ornamental : there-

250 THE CALADIUM. -

fore, as soon as flower-buds appear, they should be picked
off. The plants should always be sheltered from the direct
rays of the sun.

The foot-stalks of some of these plants are sometimes
three feet long ; and the leaves nearly a foot long, and
eight inches wide. When the plants show a disposition to
dry off, reduce the supply of water, and, if all the leaves
die, for a time discontinue watering altogether, and let the
plant dry off ; but never keep it during rest in a temperature
lower than 60° to 65° : the tubers should never become
quite dry. If the leaves should not all die away, it is best
to give a little water occasionally, and keep up a weak
growth for a while ; and, after the season of rest, the plant
will throw up stronger foliage. If the temperature is too
low, and the soil wet, the tubers become of a pasty, soapy
cpnsistency, and perish. All the species are easily propa-
gated by dividing the roots just as growth begins. The
following are fine varieties : —

C. Surinamense. — Dark-green leaves, spotted with white.

C. marmoratum. — Dark green, marbled with cloudy
white ; grows all the year, and a small plant soon makes a
specimen.

THE CALADIUM. 251

C. pictum. — Leaves large and broad, spotted with pure
white spots.

C. hcematostigma. — Leaves dark green, with transparent,
red-and-white spots, and very slightly tinged with red in
the centre.

C. Humboltii. — Leaves covered with patches and spots
of transparent white.

C. pellucidum. — Dark green, the ends of the veins
touched with purple. Transparent white spots, with a
touch of red in the centre.

C. argyritis. — Dark-green leaf, marbled and spotted
with snowy white, so that the ground-color can hardly be
seen. A dwarf species, producing an abundance of
foliage.

C. Chantinii. — Leaves large, the veins and midrib of
intense red, shading to pink ; the dark-green of the leaf
blotched with rosy-white spots ; the border of the leaf pale,
yellowish green.

C. Neumann. — Dark-green leaf, with numerous irregu-
larly scattered spots of clear rose.

C. Brougniartii. — Leaves rich, velvety green, glaucous
on the under-side ; leaf-nerves very large, clear red. A
lovely species.

252 THE CALADIUM.

C. argyrospilum. — Shining green, spotted with irregular
blotches of pure white, with crimson centre.

G. VerscJiaffeltii. — Dark green, with rich vermilion
spots.

C. Houlletii. — Pale-green leaf, white nerves, marked at
the centre with faint red spots.

C. subrofamdum. — Shining green, with crimson lines and
veins.

C. liastatum. — Leaf hastate, of dark green, so marked
with numerous small white spots as to give it a powdery
white appearance ; veins slightly touched with red.

C. picturatum. — Leaf green, the veins beautifully bor-
dered with vivid rose.

C. Barraquinii. — Leaf all red, with a narrow border of
green. A very fine species.

C. bicolor. — The oldest species ; leaf green, with red
veins and centre.

C. atropurpurea. — A tall species ; leaf-stalks dark purple ;
leaves dark, blackish green.

C. Bellemeyii. — Dark green, marbled with dazzling
white.

C. poecile. — A pretty species, with neat foliage, but with
no vivid markings.

THE CRINUM. 253

There are many others which might be mentioned, and
some very rare, new varieties ; but a selection from those
above enumerated cannot fail to give satisfaction.

THE CRINUM.

A large family of amaryllis-like plants, with large foliage
and showy flowers. All of them delight in rich soil, and
require plenty of water when growing. The bulbs are gen-
erally large, and require plenty of pot-room. The species
cross freely, and many fine hybrids have been introduced.
Most of the species are stove bulbs ; though some thrive
under greenhouse culture, requiring the treatment given to
Cape bulbs.

C. australe. — Flowers white ; a greenhouse species, re-
quiring rest for six months in the year.

C. flaccidum much resembles a white lily.

C. Capense. — One of the hardiest of the family, which
may be treated as a Cape bulb : it should have plenty of
water while growing.

C. amabile. — A large but very fine species, requiring
stove culture, and flowering in spring and fall. The flowers
are dark rose-color, fragrant, and are produced on an im-
mense spike. The plant is evergreen.

254 THE CLIVEA. — THE EUCHARIS.

C. erubescens. — A stove species, with pale-white flowers
in July.

There are some dozen varieties.

All the family are ornamental, and will repay cultivation.

THE CLIVEA.

A splendid flowering bulb, nearly related to amaryllis,
from the Cape of Good Hope. It should be potted in rich
sandy loam ; have a high temperature and plenty of water
while growing, and less water and a lower temperature
when at rest. A good plan is to grow it in the stove,
and rest it in the greenhouse. The plant is evergreen,
and is difficult to flower. The flowers are red and yel-
low, very showy ; produced on a spike two feet high
in July.

C. nolilis is the only species.

THE EUCHARIS.

This splendid plant is of recent introduction. It is a
thick-leaved, evergreen, bulbous plant, of the amaryllis
tribe ; a native of Grenada ; requiring stove treatment, but

THE GRIFFINIA. 255

very free-flowering. The proper soil is fibry loam and a
little peat.

After potting, say in early winter, plunge the pot in
a slight bottom-heat in the stove, say at 70° to 75°,
to start it into vigorous growth, giving plenty of water.
When the growth is perfected, remove the plant to the
greenhouse, and give it all the sun possible until September.
Then diminish water to hasten the ripening, and by the end
of the month remove to a cool stove where the temperature
is from 50° to 55° ; giving only enough water to keep the
plant healthy.

It may be forced into bloom at any season. The flowers
are pure white, large, and showy, on foot-stalks just above
the leaves. The plant will grow, and we have bloomed
it, in the greenhouse ; but it does better in the stove.

E. Amazonica, or grandiflora, is the species, and is a native
of South America. It is one of the finest of the amaryllis
family ; and has the merit, which so few have, of blooming
with, and the flower seeming to conform to, the foliage.

THE GRIFFINIA.

A genus of stove-bulbs, from South America, which
thrive well with the general treatment of amaryllis.

256 THE CYRTANTHUS.

The soil should be peat and loam, with a little sand and
leaf-mould.

In growth, the plants should be kept at a temperature of
60° to 80°, and have plenty of water ; but, when at rest, the
heat should never exceed 50°.

Propagated by offsets and by seeds, which may be treated
as other seeds of the amaryllis family.

There are but three species, —

G. hyacinthina. — Flowers blue and white.

G. parviflora. — Pale-purple flowers.

G. intermedia. — Blue flowers.

THE CYRTANTHUS.

The plants of this family differ widely from each other,

THE ILEMANTHUS. — THE BRUNSVIGIA. 257

and are generally of difficult culture. A greenhouse is too
cold for them, and a stove too close.

They should be potted in strong, friable loam ; have
greenhouse culture from April to November, and an airy
situation in the stove from December to April. The decid-
uous species should be kept dry in winter.

G. obliquus and carneus are evergreen ; the remainder are
deciduous.

There are eight species, all natives of the Cape. G. obli-
quus, when it can be flowered, is very showy.

THE H^EMANTHUS.

Stove-bulbs, but flowering in the greenhouse ; growing
freely in sandy loam and peat ; natives of the Cape of Good
Hope. The bulbs are large, and flower in autumn, just
before beginning to grow. The flower is very showy,
but by no means handsome. The leaves are two, very
large, and grow all winter. When the leaves wither, the
plant should go to rest, and remain until August ; when it
may be repotted.

H. coccineus is the most common species, and there are
about twenty others.

THE BRUNSVIGIA.

A family of Cape bulbs, generally requiring stove heat.
17

258 THE EUCOMIS.

They are allied to amaryllis, and do well under the same
treatment. The soil may be loam and peat. They need a
season of perfect rest, which should be given in winter.
They flower from June to September, according to the
species. The flowers are large and showy ; but, the bulbs
of many species being very large, the plants occupy
more room than can be afforded, except in a large col-
lection.

B. grandiflora and JosepJiince are very fine species.

There are about a dozen species.

B. falcata and Coranica are also called AMMOCHARIS,
and may be grown in a greenhouse, as they are hardier
than the other species.

THE EUCOMIS.

These are large Cape bulbs, which bloom well both in the
greenhouse and the stove. The flowers are coarse, and not
very handsome ; of a green color, but fragrant.

They thrive with common treatment, resting in summer.
They bloom in early spring. There are five or six species,
none very desirable.

XIX.

ACHIMENES, GLOXINIAS, GESNERA.

NDER the head of Bulbs, we could hardly
treat of these plants ; but, as we have given
ourselves more latitude, we may include
them : and, for the decoration of the green-
house or conservatory in summer, there
are no plants so suitable as the subjects
of the present chapter. For ease of cul-
ture, beauty of growth, and delicacy of
bloom, they are unsurpassed ; and they
also remain a long time in perfection, so that the green-
house may be gay with them from June to October.

ACHIMENES.

This plant, though properly to be grown in a stove, does
well in the greenhouse in summer. The bulbs are small,

259

2GO ACHIMENES.

varying in shape in the different species. Early in Febru-
ary, the bulbs should be turned out of the old soil, and
carefully planted, about half an inch deep, in a compost of
decomposed peat, silver-sand, and leaf-mould. After a
gentle watering to settle the soil, the pans should be placed
in gentle bottom-heat, or over the flue in the stove, where
the temperature will be about 75°. Here they may remain
until the shoots are an inch high. Another mode is
to start the plants thickly in large pans, in bottom-heat,
and, when the plants are an inch high, to transplant them
to the blooming pans ; the advantage of which is, that no
bulbs fail to come, and you can so arrange the sizes by
planting the larger in the middle, and the smaller round
the side of the pan, as to form a mass of foliage and bloom.
The plants should then be placed in a house where the
temperature at night does not fall below 60°, and near the
glass, that they may grow sturdy. Let the soil be kept
damp, but not wet, and syringe occasionally. Should the
sun cause them to droop, shade a little at noon. When the
plants are about five inches high, they should be tied to
neat stakes, which should be as small as possible, and
painted green. Fill up the pots (which should not, till now,

ACHIMENES. 261

be quite full of soil) with a compost of loam, well decom-
posed cow-dung, and silver-sand.

In tying the plants, care should be taken to so place the
stakes, and tie the plants, that the whole pan may be a
symmetrical mass of green.

The plants will bloom by the middle of June ; when they
may be removed to the conservatory, and shaded, that the
flowers may last longer. As soon as the bloom opens, all
syringing should be stopped.

Plants potted a month later will succeed these in bloom ;
and, by a succession of pottings, the stage may be filled
with achimenes until wanted for winter-plants.

If the air of the house where they are grown is kept
moist, there will be no danger from red spider or thrips ;
and a gentle fumigation will destroy green aphis, if they
attack the plants.

After blooming, the plants should still be exposed to the
light, but should have less water ; and, when the leaves turn
yellow, the stalks may be cut off, and the pans placed in
a dry place where the temperature is about 45° : if upon a
damp floor, all the better, as thus the bulbs keep plump.
It is a bad practice to dry them too much, or to take them
out of the soil and put them away in paper-bags.

262 GLOXINIAS.

Some of the best kinds are, —

A. coccinea. — An old but good species; with bright-
scarlet flowers.

A. longiflora, and varieties major and alia. — Large blue
or white flowers.

A. Meteor. — Crimson-scarlet, yellow eye.

A. Dr. Hoff. — White, rosy, lilac centre.

A. Baumanni hirsuta. — Violet-purple.

A. Ignea. — Bright scarlet.

A. carminata splendens. — Brilliant carmine.

A. picta. — Yellow and scarlet, spotted leaves.

A. Margaretta. — White.

A. Ambroise Verscliaffelt. — White, marked with violet.

A. rosea elegans. — Bright rose.

A. Sir Tralierne Thomas. — Rosy carmine.

A. pidurata. — Rose, with dark spots.

A. Parsonsii. — Salmon-crimson, orange centre.

GLOXINIAS.

A family of lovely plants, from South America. The
original species have been lost in the multitude of fine hy-
brids which have mostly sprung from G. speciosa, maculata.

GLOXINIAS. 263

and caulescens. The bulbs are large, and, in general appear-
ance, resemble a cyclamen. They should be potted, one in a
pot, in good turfy loam and leaf-mould, with a liberal admix-
ture of well-rotted, rather dry cow-manure and silver-sand ;
the whole well mixed, but not very fine. The crown of the
bulb should be just covered with soil, which should not be
pressed in too close.

Pot as soon as the bulb shows signs of growth, but not
earlier than January. Treat them as recommended for
achimenes until the pots are filled with roots ; then repot in
a larger size, and continue the treatment until they flower.
When in bloom, remove them to the conservatory, and treat
as achimenes until the time for repotting.

They may be propagated by seed, by cuttings, by leaves,
or by dividing the root in spring.

By cutting a leaf up, and placing it in moist sand, every
part will make a small bulb ; or the leaf may be planted
entire, inserting it an inch or so in the sand. This latter
method makes very strong plants.

Seeds may be sown at any time ; but the spring is the
best season. The soil should be light and rich ; and, as the
seed is small, it can hardly be too lightly covered. Place
the pans in a frame, keeping the surface of the soil damp,

264 GLOXINIAS.

and the plants will appear in about ten days. As soon as
large enough, they may be pricked off into pans, and, in
due time, into separate pots. If kept in a moderate heat,
they will retain their leaves most of the winter ; and, if well
grown, will bloom the next season. The flowers are either
erect or drooping. Those marked with a * are erect.

The following list is of fine kinds : —

G. alba sanguinea. — White, carmine throat.

G. alba grandiflora. — Pure white.

G. Princesse de Lambelle. — Bright red, white throat.

G. Carlo Maratti. — White and violet-blue ; fine varie-
gated leaves.

* G. Donna Colonna. — White, violet rose.

G. Cartoni. — Carmine and pink.

G. Dr. Lindley. — White, and pale blue.

G. Wilsonii. — White and carmine.

G. Fifyana. — White and purple.

G. Maria Van Houtte. — White, pink, and lemon.

G. Tarragona. — Rich crimson and white.

G. Fulgens. — Rose tube, with crimson.

G. Princess Eoyal. — White, mottled-blue throat.

G. Lady K. Hamilton. — Tube and throat crimson,
shading to rose.

GLOXINIAS. 265

* O. Guido Eeni. — White, crimson centre.
G. Sir Hugo. — Violet-purple.

The characteristics of a good gloxinia are, the plant
should be healthy and vigorous, with sufficient foliage to
cover the top of the pot. The leaves should be broad,
thick, and velvety ; the lower ones growing in a horizontal
manner.

In drooping varieties, the tube of the flower should be
broad and stout ; the throat should be wide and even ; the
sepals slightly reflexed, smooth and round at the edges, and
of sufficient substance to retain their beauty. The color, if
a self, should be bright and distinct ; if spotted, splashed,
or striped, the markings should be very decided, and not
run together. The greater the contrast of colors, the better ;
the markings to be regular ; the three under-sepals should
always be marked alike, and of uniform size.

The plant must be a free-bloomer, the flowers standing
well up above the leaves ; and as the front, or inside, of the
flower is the handsomest part, it should be the most con-
spicuous.

The erect varieties should have a long, round tube, a
little swelled at the middle ; the throat to be the same color

266 THE GESNERA.

all round, the sepals the same, and the divisions scarcely
perceptible. The mouth of the tube should be perfectly-
round, and the sepals be blunt and smooth, forming another
circle.

THE GESNERA.

A family of beautiful stove-plants, that, by regulating
their season of rest, may be brought into bloom at any
season. The treatment is the same as prescribed for achi-
menes and gloxinias, except that much syringing should be
avoided. The foliage of many species is beautifully marked,
and looks like velvet : the flowers are in long spikes, scarlet,
red, or yellow, and often finely marked. They are propa-
gated as gloxinias. There are about fifty species, and
many fine varieties.

The families of TYDEA, MANDIROLA, LOCHIERA, and
SCIADOCALYX, are only sections of achimenes, and need
the same treatment.

HE previous chapters have treated at length
on the culture of those bulbs most gene-
rally grown ; but there are still many
which are little known, and rarely found
in cultivation. To treat of these fully
would occupy too much space ; but our
work would be manifestly incomplete did we fail to mention
them. A large proportion of them have never been in cul-
tivation in this country ; and some are known in England
only by descriptions of specimens once in cultivation, but
now lost. Of some we can speak fully, having grown and
* 267

268 PENTLANDIA. — HOMERIA.

flowered them ; but of others can only copy the description
offered us in botanical works or horticultural serials.

There are some bulbs which we have omitted entirely,
because, in many cases, their identity is difficult to establish,
as they are lost to cultivation ; and others are so rare, that
there is no probability of their ever coming into the posses-
sion of any reader of this volume.

PENTLANDIA.

Greenhouse bulbs, from Peru, allied to amaryllis. The
flowers are orange-red, pretty, but not remarkably hand-
some.

The plants grow freely in sandy loam and leaf-mould, and
propagate freely by offsets. They bloom during the summer
or early autumn. The species are P. miniata, lacunosa^ and
Sullivanica ; the first of which was for a long time in our
possession, and flowered freely every year under the ordi-
nary greenhouse treatment of an autumn-flowering bulb.

HOMERIA.

A family of Cape bulbs, worthy of more attention than it
receives. They produce an abundance of flowers, which con
tinue a long time in perfection, and are very brilliant
Blooming during the summer, they need not be potted

HEXAGLOTTIS. 269

until March, and require only ordinary greenhouse treat-
ment, — to be potted in peat, leaf-mould, and sand, and freely
watered when growing. They multiply very freely from
offsets.

H. lineata. — This is the most common species ; the flow-
ers are coppery red, with a metallic lustre, and are produced
in great abundance all summer.

We have had this species in bloom from June to Septem-
ber.

H. spicata. — A beautiful species, with orange-yellow
flowers.

H. collina. — Orange-scarlet flowers, very freely produced.

H. miniata much resembles //. lineata ; but the flowers
are darker and smaller.

Other species are H. aurantiaca and ochroleuca, both with
yellow flowers.

HEXAGLOTTIS.

Rather a pretty little yellow-flowering Cape bulb, requir-
ing a sandy soil, and perfect rest when not in growth.

The plant flowers in early spring, and should be allowed
to rest after flowering.

The species are H.flexuosa and virgata.

By many botanists, the family is united to Moraea.

270 TRICHONEMA. — GALAXIA.

*
TRICHONEMA.

A pretty family of bulbs, with ixia-like flowers ; natives
of the Cape and of the south of Europe. They require the
same general treatment as ixias.

The flowers are red, blue, yellow, purple, or rose, and are
produced in spring.

There are about twenty species, of which we may
mention

T. caulescens, roseum, tortuosum, speciosum, and cruciatum,
from the Cape.

T. bulbocodium, Columnce, and purpurascens, from the
south of Europe.

T. ccelestinum; a native of North America.

GALAXIA.

Small bulbs, from the Cape of Good Hope ; generally
with large, showy, yellow flowers, and requiring the usual
culture of Cape bulbs. Soil sandy peat and loam.

The species are G. graminea, grandiflora, mucronularis,
ovata, and versicolor ; all blooming about midsummer.

LAPEYROUSIA ; HESPERANTHA ; WAGHENDORFIA. 271
LAPETROUSIA.

A family of showy-flowering bulbs from the Cape, called
also PEYROUSIA and OVIEDA. They much resemble ixias in
their growth and flowers, and require the same general
treatment. The plants produce blue, white, violet, or pink
flowers in spring.

The species are L. aculeata, silenoides^ anceps, corymbosa^
fissifolia, falcata, fasciculata, Fdbricii.

HESPERANTHA.

A small-flowering bulb, from the Cape, thriving, in sandy
loam and peat, under the culture usually given bulbs of this
nature. The flowers are pretty, but not conspicuous. Like
most of the Cape bulbs, it propagates freely by offsets.

The species are H. falcata, cinnamomea, radiata, and
angusta, with white or violet, very fragrant flowers.

WACHENDORFIA.

A family of rather large-growing, free-flowering Cape
bulbs, requiring a soil of sandy loam and peat, and to be

272 HYPOXTS.

treated like ixias. They bloom in summer, and are very
showy. W. brevifolia, unlike most Cape bulbs, has ever-
green leaves, but must, nevertheless, have a season of rest
when the season's growth is over, induced by withholding
water, but not sufficient to allow the leaves to wither. We
have had a very fine show of these flowers in the conservatory
in summer. The species are W. paniculata, Herbert^ grami-
nea, tenella, and thyrsiflora, with straw or yellow flowers ; and
brevifolia and hirsuta, with purple-shaded blossoms.

HYPOXIS.

Bulbous plants, with thick underground stems ; natives of
every continent except Europe. Some are hardy ; but most
of those with ornamental flowers require greenhouse culture
in loamy peat.

The flowers of all are starry, mostly yellow ; but a few
white and blue.

While not very showy, they are worth growing where
there is room.

There are sixteen species, of which H. /mean's, stellata,
elegans, and alba are the best. H. erecta is hardy.

COOPERIA; HAYLOCKIA; ANDROCYMBIUM. 273

COOPERIA.

A North- American family of tender bulbs, with showy
flowers expanding at night. The flower-stem is erect and
stiff, each bulb producing but one at a time, crowned with a
single flower. Soil sandy loam. Propagated by offsets or
seeds, which should be sown in spring. The species are, —

C. pedunculata. — With white and yellow flowers.

C. chlorosolen. — White and evergreen.

C. Drummondii. — White and red flowers, natives of
Texas and Mexico.

HAYLOCKIA.

A little bulb, allied to Cooperia, with straw-colored
flowers, blooming in September, a native of Buenos Ayres,
thriving in sandy loam and leaf-mould. The leaves grow all
winter, and the plant rests in the spring. Propagated by
seeds or offsets. H. pusilla is the only species.

ANDROCYMBIUM.

A family of Cape bulbs, with green or white flowers, grow-
ing in loam and sand, and propagated by seeds and offsets.

A. eucomoides, melanthoides, volutare, are the species.
18

274 BLANDFORDIA ; BRA VGA ; CALOSCORDUM ; MILLA.
BLANDFORDIA.

A very interesting family of beautiful bulbs, from Austra-
lia, requiring to be potted in peat and loam, and to be
treated like ixias. Propagated by offsets and seeds. The
species are B. nobilis, flammea, grandiflora^ intermedia, mar-
ginata, Cunninghamii^ and Backliousii, with red, yellow,
crimson, and orange flowers.

BRAVOA.

A little Mexican bulb, allied to amaryllis ; flowering in
summer in ricli light soil. Increased by offsets.

B. geminiflora, with red flowers, which is the only species
that has flowered freely with us.

CALOSCORDUM.

A pretty bulb, allied to Milla, thriving in common soil.
The flowers are rose and purple.

C. nerinefolium, a native of Chusan, is the only species.

MILLA.

Small bulbs, with beautiful milk-white flowers, growing
freely in rich, light soil.

ELISENA J ISMENE ; PANCRATIUM. 275

The principal species, M. biflora, is a native of Mexico,
and is very ornamental. Propagated by offsets.

M. uni flora is known as Tritelia uniflora, and is a native
of Buenos Ayres.

ELISENA.

A very showy bulb, allied to Pancratium, with large white
flowers, resembling an Isinene . Soil very sandy loam ;
propagated by offsets.

E. longipetala, from Lima, is the only species.

ISMENE.

South-American bulbs, with white and yellow flowers,
somewhat resembling a daffodil. They flower in summer,
and may be bloomed in the border. They should be planted
in pure sand, and treated as directed for sprekelia. If the
soil is not sandy, they will not flower. The best way to
obtain bulbs would be to send to Peru, where the most com-
mon species, I. Amancces, is very abundant, near Lima,
There are eight species, of which 1. Amancces, calctthina, and
nutans are the best.

PANCRATIUM.

Rather an extensive family of greenhouse and stove bulbs,
growing in sandy loam, and propagated by seeds, or spar-

276 CARPODETES J DAUBENYA ; CARPOLYSA.

ingly by offsets. The flowers are generally white, fragrant,
and showy.

The greenhouse species are P. Illyricum, maritimum, rota-
tum, and Carolinianum, of which the first mentioned might
possibly prove hardy.

Of stove species, we may mention P. Canariense, amoenum,
biflorum, and acutifolium.

CARPODETES.

A Peruvian bulb, with yellowish-purple flowers, growing
in sandy loam, enriched with decomposed leaves or well-
rotted manure, with good drainage.

C. recurvata is the species.

DAUBENYA.

Yellow-flowering bulbs, from the Cape, thriving in rich
sandy loam, and blooming in summer under the usual treat-
ment. D. aurea and fulva are the species.

CARPOLYSA.

G. spiralis is a pretty little Cape bulb, with pink, starry
flowers, requiring the same treatment as an ixia.

HABRANTHUS J IXIOLIBION ; PHYCELLA. 277

HABRANTHUS.

A large family of amaryllis-like bulbs, generally natives
of South America. The flower-stem is thrown up before
the leaves in early autumn, and the leaves grow all winter.

They should be grown in sandy loam and peat, with good
drainage, and have perfect rest after the leaves fade.

They propagate by offsets or by seed, which should be
sown in spring, and have a gentle bottom-heat to start it
into growth. There are about' twenty species, and many
fine hybrid varieties, of which we may mention H. Ander-
som, and the varieties aureus and cupreus, bifidus, Bagnoldi^
roseus, intermedius, and kermisianus.

IXIOLIRION.

Rare and pretty bulbs, natives of Syria and Tartary,
with pale-blue flowers. They thrive in common soil, and
propagate by seeds or offsets.

/. montanum and Tartaricum are the species.

PHYCELLA.

South-American bulbs, with red or scarlet flowers, in
summer or early autumn, growing in good loam, with perfect
drainage.

278 CHLORETIS ; STRUMABIA J COBURGIA.

They should be planted in February, and taken up and
kept, dry, like tulips, when the leaves wither.

There are about a dozen species, of which the best are
P. crytanthoides, ignea, biflora, corusca.

CHLORETIS.

A family separated from CRINTTM by Mr. Herbert. C.
glauca is a native of Mexico, with large white flowers.

It grows in sandy soil, and needs a season of perfect rest.
It flowers in August.

STRUMARIA.

This genus requires the same treatment as Nerine, to
which it is nearly allied. The bulbs are of low habit, with
red, white, or pink flowers, and are natives of the Cape.

Some of the species are S. truncata, undulata, geminata,
and rubella.

COBURGIA.

A family of South- American, showy, flowering bulbs,
growing in sandy loam enriched with leaf-mould. They

GASTRONEMA; CHLIDANTHUS; URCEOLINA. 279

may be grown and flowered in the border, like the Jacobean
lily (Sprekelia). Propagated by offsets.

There are nine species, generally with red or orange
flowers, of which C. incarnata is the most common.

GASTRONEMA.

A family of two species of small Cape bulbs, with white
or rosy flowers, growing in loam and leaf-mould, with the
usual culture of Cape bulbs ; flowering in early summer.

The species are Gr. sanguineum and clavatum, both very
rare.

CHLIDANTHUS.

A pretty bulb, with fragrant yellow flowers ; native of
Buenos Ayres. The bulb grows freely in sandy loam,
and produces numerous offsets, which should be removed,
or the main bulb will not flower. Our bulbs flowered in
July. C. fragrans is the only species.

URCEOLINA.

A Peruvian bulb, growing in rich loam, and requiring
shade ; blooming in summer, and requiring perfect rest in

280 STENOMESSON ; FOURCROYA • EUCROSIA.

winter. Propagated by offsets. U. pendula, and aurea,
with yellow, red, and green flowers, are the only species.

STENOMESSON.

Pretty bulbs from South America, with orange, scarlet,
and yellow flowers, requiring complete rest in winter, and
plenty of moisture in summer, and to be grown in sandy
loam. They flower in spring before the leaves grow.
There are eight species, all natives of Peru, of which the
best are S. flavum^ curvidentatum, croceum, Hartwegii^ au-
rantiacum, and vitellinum.

FOURCROYA.

A family of enormous amaryllis-like plants, the stems
of F. longceva attaining the height of forty feet. They are
natives of Mexico, and are seldom found in collections.
The species are F. longceva and F, gigantea.

EUCROSIA.

A pretty bulb, native of the Peruvian Andes, growing in
rich, sandy loain. The flowers are bright vermilion ; but

CALOSTEMMA ; EURYCLES J GLORIOSA. 281

the plants, though often grown in the greenhouse, thrive
better in a stove. They bloom in spring, and should rest

in winter.

t

E. bicolor is the only species.

CALOSTEMMA.

New-Holland bulbs, of which there are five species, with
yellow, purple, or white flowers. They grow in sandy
loam, blooming in early summer, and " need abundance of
water to make them flower."

The species are G. purpureum, album, luteum, cameum,
and Cunninghamii.

EURYCLES.

Stove-bulbs, requiring sandy loam and leaf-mould, and
rest in winter.

The flowers are white, and produced in May. The species
are E. Amboinensis and Australasica.

GLORIOSA.

A family of bulbs, with climbing stems, allied to the
lily. They should be grown in a stove, in a compost of
peaty loam and leaf-mould, potted in March, trained to a

282 HYDROT^NIA J HYMENOCALLIS.

trellis as they grow ; and they will bloom in summer. The
flowers are yellow or orange, and very showy. Propagated
by separating the bulbs. Well-known species are O. Nepa-
lensis, superla, and virescens. They are also known as
CLINOSTYLIS.

HYDROTJSNIA.

A half-hardy bulb, " with the aspect of a Tigridia, and
flowers like a Frittelaria." Grow in light, rich, sandy loam,
and treat like a Tigridia ; taking it up in autumn, when the
leaves are killed.

The species are H. lobata, from South America, with yel-
low and purple flowers ; and H. meleagris, with yellow flow-
ers ; a native of Mexico.

HYMENOCALLIS.

A family of some thirty species of greenhouse and stove
bulbs, with large amaryllis-like flowers.

They grow in rich, sandy loam, and are propagated by
offsets ; blooming in summer.

H. adnata and rotata may be grown in the greenhouse.

The flowers of all are white, and resemble those of a
Pancratium.

GETHYLLIS; LIDEBOURIA ; VELTHEIMIA. 283

GETHYLLIS.

As Fourcroya is the largest of the amaryllis, so is Gethyl-
lis the smallest.

The species are little bulbs from the Cape, and grow
readily in sandy loam and peat. The flowers of all are
white, blooming in July ; and the plants are about six
inches high. Propagated by offsets and seeds. G. Afra,
spiralis, and ciliatris are the species most known.

LIDEBOTJRIA.

A rare bulb from the East Indies, allied to Bessera.
Soil sandy loam ; flowers greenish-white. The only species
is L. hyacinthina.

VELTHEIMIA.

A family of large Cape bulbs, not very handsome, but effec-
tive, and remaining long in blossom. Should be grown in
the greenhouse, in sandy loam. The plants rest all summer,
but bloom in December and January.

F. viridiflora is the most common species : with us it
has ripened seeds freely. The plants rarely make offsets.

F. glauca and intermedia are the other species.

284 CYANELLA ; RHINOPETALUM J LIBERTIA J ETC.
CYANELLA.

Small Cape bulbs, with white, blue, yellow, and red
flowers, which do well treated like ixias. Some of the
species are G. alba, lutea, odoratissima, and Capensis. They
generally bloom in July and August.

RHINOPETALUM.

A small bulb, with pink-spotted flowers ; native of the
Ural, flowering in January. Soil sandy peat and loam.
E. Karelini is the only species.

LIBERTIA.

Pretty little bulbs, with white flowers, allied to VIEUS-
SEUXIA, blooming in early spring ; generally natives of
Australia. Soil sandy loam, with a little leaf-mould. The
species are L. formosa, grandiflora^ pulchella, and paniculata.

PH.EDRANASSA.

South-American bulbs, allied to Coburgia, and requiring
the same treatment. They may be made to rest either in
winter or summer. The species are P. chloracea and obtusa.

BRODLEA; MASSONIA; PUSCHKINIA; CALIPRORA. 285

both from Peru, of which the former has produced its crim-
son flowers in our collection.

BRODI^A.

Showy bulbs, with blue flowers in summer ; natives of
the western coast of North America. Grown in sandy
peat, they bloom in summer.

B. congesta has bloomed finely with us. The other species
are B. grandi flora and Calif arnica.

MASSONIA.

Small Cape bulbs, of little importance, with white flowers,
flourishing in sandy loam and peat. M. Candida, grandiflora,
and violacea are among the species.

PUSCHKINIA.

A solitary species, with bluish-white flowers, resembling
a Scilla ; native of Siberia, and hardy on sandy loam. P.
scilloides is the species.

CALIPRORA.

A little California bulb, with yellow flowers in August,
growing in peat. In England it proves hardy, but would
probably require protection with us. 0. lutea is the only
species.

286 CAMASSIA; MELANTHIUM ; MONTBRETTTA; ETC.

CAMASSIA.

A native of the north-western part of America, where it
is very common. We have flowered the bulbs in the green-
house ; but they would probably prove hardy planted in
spring, and taken up in the autumn. The flowers are pur-
ple, produced in July. Soil, sandy peat, and a shady situ-
ation. G. esculenta is the species.*

MELANTHIUM.

Mostly natives of the Cape of Good Hope. They do well
planted in peat and sandy loam, and treated as ixias ; gen-
erally flowering in spring. M. junceum and uniflorum are
the best known species.

MONTBRETTIA.

A*small Cape bulb, with yellow flowers, resembling an
ixia, and requiring the same treatment. The species are
M. flexuosa and virgata.

BESSERA.

Mexican bulbs, with beautiful flowers, blooming in Sep-
tember, and requiring a sandy peat soil. Propagated by
offsets. The species are B. elegans, flowers scarlet ; B.
Herbert^ flowers purple and white ; B. fistulosa, purple.
* See also Scilla.

NECTAROSCORDUM; CALOCHORTUS ; CYCLOBOTHRA. 287

NECTAROSCORDUM.

A curious bulb, native of Sicily, with long pendulous pur-
ple, green, and white flowers. It grows in common light
soil, and blooms in June. N. Siculum is the only species,
and is rare in collections.

CALOCHORTUS.

Very beautiful California bulbs, blooming in summer.
Most of the finest species are lost to cultivation, as they are
very difficult to grow. It would be difficult to convey an
idea of the beauty of the flower. Soil sandy peat.

C. elegans, luteus, nitidus, venustus, splendens, and mar
crocarpus are the species. The flowers are white, purple,
or yellow.

CYCLOBOTHRA.

The flowers of these plants are drooping, and very orna-
mental. They are, like the last genus, very difficult to cul-
tivate. They bloom in August. Perhaps they might
succeed better as bedding-bulbs than in the house.

The species are G. alba, white flowers, pulchella and
monophylla, yellow flowers, from California ; and C. lobata

288 PLANTIA ; LEUCOCORYNE ; BELLEVALIA.

and lutea, also with yellow flowers, and purpurea, with green-
and-purple flowers, from Mexico. They may b,e propagated
by little bulbs, which are produced on the stem.

PLANTIA.

A little Cape bulb, with yellow flowers, growing in rich,
sandy loam, and propagated by offsets or by seeds, which
should be started in spring with bottom-heat.

P. flava is the only species.

LEUCOCORYNE.

Very fragrant little South-American bulbs, growing in
sandy loam, and blooming in autumn.

The species are L. alliacea and odorata with white, and
ixioides with lilac flowers.

BELLEVALIA.

Commonly known as the Roman squill, as it much re-
sembles a Scilla. The plants require the treatment of the
tender Scillas, and bloom in May. B. operculata, or Romanat

ALBUCA; GAGEA; BARNARDIA; ETC. 289

has white flowers ; and B. Syriaca has orange-and-blue
flowers.

ALBUCA.

A large family of bulbs, with whitish or greenish-yellow

flowers of very little beauty ; mostly natives of the Cape.

t
There are some twenty species, which may be grown

like ixias ; mostly flowering in spring.

GAGEA.

A family of about twenty species of small bulbs, with yel-
low flowers. Natives of Europe. All hardy in England,
and many of them might stand the winters here. They
are not handsome enough for greenhouse culture.

BARNARDIA.

A pretty bulb from China, with pale-blue flowers, requir-
ing the same treatment as a tender SCILLA. The species is
B. scilloides.

HESPERASCORDIUM.

Pretty plants from California, allied to allium ; growing
in sandy loam. They bloom in July, and are propagated

19

290 DRIMEA J ERIOSPERMUM ; SPATALANTHUS J ETC.

by offsets or seeds. The species are H. hyacinthinum with
blue, and H. lacteum with white flowers.

DRIMEA.

Not very showy Cape bulbs, requiring the same treat-
ment as ixias ; generally flowering in August. D. villosa,
altissima, and elata are the best of a dozen species.

ERIOSPERMUM.

A genus of Cape bulbs, comprising eight species ; flower-
ing before the leaves. The flowers are not ornamental,
being generally greenish-white or blue. They grow in
sandy peat, and propagate by offsets.

SPATALANTHUS.

A rare and delicate Cape bulb, allied to Trichonema. The
flowers are red, with a star of yellow and black in the centre.
It should be grown in turfy loam, sand, and peat. The
species is S. speciosus ; but it is a very rare plant even in its
native country.

CONANTHERA.

A very rare bulb from Chili, of difficult culture. The
plants grow in winter, and rest in summer, flowering in

CUMMINGIA ; UROPETALON ; STREPTANTHERA. 291

April. The soil should be sandy, and the pots be well
drained. C. bifolia and Simsii are the two species, both
with blue flowers.

CUMMINGIA.

Another South-American genus, not very easy to grow.
Soil sandy loam. Propagated by offsets. The family was
formerly classed with CONANTHERA. The species are C.
campanulata, tenella, and trimaculata ; the two former bear-
ing blue flowers in autumn, the latter in December.

UROPETALON.

A genus of plants, with flowers of little beauty, growing
in light loam, and propagated by offsets. These plants are
only desirable in large collections. U. serotinum is a native
of Spain. U. longifolium is from Mozambique. U. glau-
cum, fulvum, and viride are from the Cape of Good Hope.

STREPTANTHERA.

A genus of Cape bulbs, with showy flowers, now united
to gladiolus. S. cuprea and elegans were the only species.

TRITELIA.

A very pretty family of American bulbs, with blue or
white flowers, growing in sandy loam, and blooming in July.

292

TRITELTA.

They are very showy plants if well grown, and do well with
greenhouse culture.

The species are, —

T. laxa, flowers blue, in large umbels.

T. uniflora, flowers sky-blue. This latter species is a ?ery
pretty plant when several bulbs are grown in a pot. It has
flowered thus with us very prettily.

INDEX.

INDEX.

PAGE

ACHIMENES 259

" THE CULTURE OP 261

" LIST OF SPECIES 262

Acis, THE 101

ACONITE, WINTER 233

ALBUCA, THE , 289

ALLIUM, THE 174

" SPECIES OF 175

ALOCASIA, THE 238

AMARYLLIS, THE 200

" CULTURE OF 201

" TEMPERATURE FOR 205

" SECOND FLOWERING OF 205

" SEEDLING 206

" BELLADONNA 21, 208

" LUTEA 234

AMMOCHARIS, THE 258

ANDROCYMBIUM, THE 273

ANEMONE, THE 137

" PREPARATION OF BED 137

" PROPAGATION 138

" PROPERTIES OF A GOOD 138

" VARIETIES 139

ANISANTHUS 199

ANOMATHECA, THE 197

ANTHOLYZA, THE 198

APHIS 56

295

296 INDEX.

PAGE

APIOS, THE 228

ARIS.EMA, THE 238

ARRANGEMENT OF COLORS 30

ARUM, THE 238

ASCLEPIAS, THE 228

ATAMASCO LILY 214

BABIANA, THE 150

" TREATMENT 150

" SPECIES 151

BABY'S BREATH 23G

BARNARDIA, THE 289

BELLADONNA LILY 21 , 208

BELLE v ALIA, THE 288

BESSERA, THE 286

BLANDFORDIA, THE 274

BLOODROOT, THE 245

BRAVOA, THE 274

BRODLcEA, THE 285

BRUNSVIGIA, THE 257

BULB-BED, AUTUMN COVERING 32

" PREPARATION OF 37

" SITUATION OF 31, 36

BULB-CASES 42

BULBOCODIUM, THE 231

BULBS, WHAT ARE THEY? 17

" KINDS OF 17

" MODE OF FLOWERING 21

" DRYING OFF • 22

" NEW FORMATION OF 23

<! PROPAGATION 24

" TENDER POTTING 33, 38

" POTTING 38, 43

" TREATMENT AFTER POTTING 43

" TIME OF POTTING FOR WINTER 44, 45

" IN WARDIAN CASES. .. 40

INDEX. 297

PAGB

BULBS IN WATER 46

" IN MOSS... 49

" IN VEGETABLES 49

" IN SAND 50

CALADIUM, THE 248

" CULTURE OF 249

" SPECIES OF 250

CALIPRORA, THE 285

CALLA LILY, THE 245

CALOCASIA, THE 240

CALOSCORDUM, THE 274

CALOSTEMMA, THE 281

CAMASSIA, THE 286

CANXA, THE 243

CAPE BULBS, GENERAL TREATMENT 142-155

CARPODETES, THE 276

CARPOLYSA, THE 276

CHLIDANTHUS, THE 279

CIILORETIS, THE 278

CLINOSTYLIS, THE 282

CLI VEA, THE 254

COBURGIA, THE 278

COLCHICUM, THE 21, 232

" YELLOW 234

COLOCHORTUS 287

COLORS, ARRANGEMENT OF 30

COMMELINA, THE : 227

COMPOST FOR BULBS 35

CONANTHERA, THE 290

COOPERIA, THE 273

CORAL TREE, THE (ERYTHRINA) 241

CORBULARIA, THE 94

COVERING OF BULB-BED 32

CRINUM, THE 253

CROCUS, THE 20, 31, 102

298 INDEX.

PAGE

CROCUS, SPECIES AND VARIETIES 102, 107

" CULTURE 103

" PLANTING BEDS 104

" REMOVAL AFTEK BLOOMING 105

" HOUSE-CULTURE 106

" FORCING 106

" SEEDLING 107

CROCUS-POTS 50

CROWN IMPERIAL 31, 170, 172

CUMMINGIA 291

CY ANELLA, THE 284

CYCLAMEN, THE 218

' ' POTTING 219

" PROPAGATION OF 220

" SPECIES AND VARIETIES ...'. 221

CYCLOBOTHRA, THE 287

CYPELLA, THE 129

CYRTANTHUS, THE 257

DAHLIA, THE 224

" PROPERTIES OF A GOOD 225

DAUBENYA, THE 276

DEPTH OF PLANTING 31

DICENTRA. THE 244

DIELYTRA, THE 244

DISEASES 51

DOGTOOTH VIOLET, THE 230

DRAGON-PLANT 239

DRIMEA, THE 290

DRYING OFF BULBS 22

DUTCH BULBS 27

ELISENA, THE 275

ERANTHES, THE 233

ERIOSPERMUM, THE 290

ERYTHRINA, THE 241

INDEX. 299

PAGE

ERYTHRONIUM, THE 230

EUCHARIS, THE 254

EUCOMIS, THE 258

EUCROSIA, THE 280

EURYCLES, THE 281

FEATHERED HYACINTH 236

FERRARIA, THE 173

" SPECIES 174

FRITTELARIA, THE 20, 22, 30, 170

" CULTURE 171

" SPECIES OF 171

FOURCROYA, THE 280

GAGEA, THE 289

GALAXIA, THE 270

GASTRONEMA, THE 279

GEISSORHIZA, THE 157

" SPECIES 158

GESNERA, THE 266

GETHYLLIS, THE 283

GLADIOLUS, DISEASES OF 59

" MANURING 41

" THE 179

" HISTORY OF 180-185

" POT-CULTURE 181

" TENDER SPECIES 181

" CULTURE OF HARDY 184

" GENERAL TREATMENT 186

" SOIL FOR 188

" SEEDLING 189

u PRESERVATION OF VARIETIES 190

" PROPAGATION BY BULBLETS 191

" DISEASES AND ENEMIES 192

" MULTIPLICATION OF VARIETIES 192

" VARIETIES OF HARDY ... 193

300 INDEX.

PAGE

GLORIOSA, THE 281

GLOXINIA, THE 262

" CULTURE OF 263

" LIST OF VARIETIES 264

" PROPERTIES OF A GOOD 265

GRAPE HYACINTH 236

GREEN DRAGON 239

GREEN-FLY 56

GRIFFINIA, THE , 255

GROUND-NUT, THE 228

GUERNSEY LILY 212

GUINEA-HEN FLOWER I 173

HABKANTHUS, THE 277

H^EMANTHUS, THE 257

HARDY BULBS, PLANTING 28

HAREBELL, BRITISH 90

HAYLOCKIA, THE 273

HERBERTIA, THE 129

HESPERANTHA, THE 271

HESPERASCORDIUM, THE 289

HEXAGLOTTIS, THE 2C9

HIPPEASTRUM, THE 200

" CULTURE OF 201

" SPECIES OF 206

" HYBRIDS OF 208

HOLLAND BULBS 27

HOMERIA, THE 268

HYACINTH 20, 29, 40

" DISEASES OF 60

" HISTORY OF, THE 6t

" SOIL FOR 65

" SELECTION OF BULBS 65

" PLANTING IN BEDS 67

" " " WATER 69

" " " Moss... 70

INDEX. 301

PAGE

HYACINTH, PLANTING IN SAND 70

" « " POTS 71

11 FORCING 73

" RULES FOB GROWING 74

" TREATMENT AFTER BLOOMING 76

" MINIATURE 76

" PROPAGATION 76

" SPECIES 78

" LIST OF VARIETIES 79

" PROPERTIES OP GOOD 84

" GRAPE OR MUSK 236

" FEATHERED 236

HYDROT.KNIA, THE 282

H YMENOCALLIS, THE 282

HYPOXIS, THE 272

INDIAN SHOT 243

INDIAN TURNIP 240

INSECTS 51

IRIS, THE 31, 120

" GENERAL TREATMENT 120

" LIST OF TUBEROUS 121

" PROPAGATION 123

" EARLY-BLOOMING SPECIES 124

" BULBOUS 124

" SPANISH 124

" ENGLISH 125

" PERSIAN 20, 125

" SUSIANA 21, 126

" PROPERTIES OF FINE 126

" PEACOCK 130

ISMENE, THE 275 •

IXIA, THE 147

" TREATMENT 148

" SPECIES 148

IXIOLIRION, THE 277

302 INDEX.

PAGE

JACK IN THE PULPIT 240

JACOBEAN LILY 21, 49, 204

JONQUIL, THE 92, 95

LACHENALIA, THE 236

LAPE YROUSIA, THE 271

LEUCOCORYNE, THE 288

LEUCOJUM, THE , ico

" PLANTING 100

" SPECIES 100

LIBERTIA, THE 284

LIDEBOURIA, THE 283

LILIUM CANDIDUM 21, 162

LILY, ATAMASCO 214

" WHITE 21, 162

" THE 21, 31, 159

" THE PROPAGATION OF 159

" THE CULTURE OF 160

" THE TRANSPLANTING 160

" FORCING « 161

" PROPERTIES OF 161

" SPECIES OF 162

" ANNUNCIATION 162

" GUERNSEY 212

LOCHIERA, THE 266

LYCORIS, THE 210

MANDIROLA, THE 266

MANURE, LIQUID 40, 48

MANURES FOR BULBS 33-39, 48

MASSONIA, THE 285

MEALY BUG 57

MELANTHIUM, THE 286

MERENDERA 231

MILDEW 58

MILLA, THE 274

INDEX. 303

PAGE

MONTBRETTIA, THE 286

MOREA, THE 128

' ' SPECIES 129

MUSCARI, THE 235

MUSK HYACINTH 236

MYOGALUM, THE 90

NAMES OF VARIETIES, PRESERVING 30

NARCISSUS, THE 29, 91

" PLANTING 91

«' HOUSE-CULTURE 92

" SPECIES 92

1 ' POL YANTH US 21 , 96

" " VARIETIES 95

" DOUBLE ROMAN 45, 97

NECTAROSCORDUM, THE 287

NERINE, THE 211

" SPECIES OF 212

OPERANTHUS, THE 234

ORNITHOGALUM, THE 21, 176

" SPECIES OF 177

OVIEDA, THE. 271

OXAHS, THE 143

" POTTING 142

" SPECIES 145

PANCRATIUM, THE 275

PKACOCK IRIS 130

PENTLANDIA, THE 268

PERSIAN IRIS 20, 125

PETILIUM, THE 170-172

PEYROUSIA, THE 271

PH^DRANASSA, THE 284

PHALOCALLIS, THE 130, 195

PHYCELLA, THE . 277

304 INDEX.

PAGE

PLAID IXIA 158

PLANTIA, THE 288

PLANTING, HARDY BULBS 28

" PROPER DEPTH 31

" RULES FOR 29

POLIANTHES TUBEROSA 18

POTTING BULBS 38, 43

" TENDER BULBS 33, 38

PREMATURE FLOWERING 51

PUSCHKINIA, THE 285

PYROLIRION, THE , 210

RANUNCULUS, THE 132

" SOIL FOR 133

" TREATMENT 134

" SEEDLINGS 135

" PROPERTIES OF A GOOD 135

" FORCING 136

" VARIETIES 136

RED SPIDER 54

REST, SEASON OF 20, 21

RHINOPETALUM, THE 284

RICHABDIA, THE 245

RIGIDELLA, THE 199

ROT 58

SALVIA, THE 228

SAND FOR BULBS 38

SANGUINARIA, THE 245

SCALE 58

SCIADOCALYX, THE 2G6

SCILLA, THE 86

" PLANTING 86

" SPECIES 87

SEASON OF REST 20, 21

SITUATION OF BULB-BED 31, 36

INDEX. 305

PAGE

SNOWDROP, THE 20, 98

" PLANTING 99

" FORCING 106

" SPECIES 100

SNOWFLAKE, THE 100

SOIL, PREPARATION OF 35

SPARAXIS, THE 152

" SPECIES 152

SPATALANTHUS, THE 290

SPREKELIA 21, 49, 200, 204, 209

STAR OF BETHLEHEM 21, 176

STENOMESSON, THE 280

STERNBERGIA, THE 237

STREPTANTHERA 291

STRUMARIA, THE 278

SYNNOTIA, THE 196

SYRINGING 34, 55

TARDY FLOWERING 53

TIGER FLOWER 194

TIGRIDIA, THE 194

" SPECIES OF 194

TILE-ROOT 158

TRICHONEMA, THE 270

TRILLIUM, THE 246

TRITELIA, THE 275, 291

TRITONIA, THE 154

" TREATMENT 154

" SPECIES OF 156

TROP.EOLUM, THE 233

TUBEROSE 18, 40

" THE CULTURE OF 215

" SELECTION AND POTTING 216

TULIP, THE 20, 109

" PREPARATION OF BEDS 110

" CLASSES OF Ill

20

306 INDEX.

PAGE

TULIP, AS A FLORIST'S FLOWER 112

" LISTS OF FINE 114. 116

" FORCING 116

" DOUBLE 118

" SPECIES OF 119

TYDEA, THE 266

URCEOLINA, THE 279

UPvGiNEA, THE 90

UROPETALON 291

VALLOTA, THE 200, 209

VELTHEIMIA, THE 283

VIEUSSEUXIA, THE 130

WACHENDORFIA, THE 271

WATSONIA, THE 195

" SPECIES OF 196

WEST- WIND FLOWER 213

WINTER ACONITE 233

ZEPHYRANTHES, THE 213

Ornamental China and Glass.

The subscriber has constantly on hand a carefully selected stock
of

CHINA AND GLASS WAKE.

He is prepared to decorate CHINA to order, guaranteeing per-
fect satisfaction, and can, without delay, furnish complete sets
with INITIALS, CRESTS, &c. ; or will decorate a single piece, if
desired, to match up sets on hand.

He pays particular attention to

FINE GLASS WARE,

having special facilities for getting up any article required.

CRESTS, MONOGRAMS, INITIALS, &c., engraved in the most
elegant manner.

Such of his goods as are of foreign manufacture are imported by
himself, and he offers all at the lowest possible prices.

Always on hand an elegant variety of

Flower Glasses, Stands, &c.,

RICHARD BRIOOS.

137 Washington St.f corner School St., BOSTON.

DUTCH BDLBOIIS FLOWER-ROOTS,

Sent by Mail, Post-paid, at Catalogue Prices.

IB. IKI. BLISS,

SEEDSMAN AND FLORIST,

SPRINGFIELD, MASS.

Just received from Holland a large and well-selected assortment
of the above, from the same source as those heretofore sold by him,
and giving such perfect satisfaction.

The assortment embraces the finest varieties of DOUBLE AND
SIXGLE HYACINTHS, POLYANTHUS NARCISSUS, DOUBLE AND
SINGLE EARLY AND LATE TULIPS, DOUBLE AND SINGLE
NARCISSUS, JONQUILS, CROCUS, CROWN IMPERIALS, IRIS,
SNOWDROPS, SCILL^E, HARDY GLADIOLUS, RANUNCULUS,
ANEMONES, JAPAN AND MANY OTHER LILIES.

ALSO A FINE ASSORTMENT OF

GREENHOUSE BULBS,

Comprising CYCLAMENS, IXIAS, OXALIS, SPARAXIS, TRITOMAS,
ACHIMENES, GLOXINIAS, &c., &c.

His new ILLUSTRATED AUTUMN CATALOGUE, con-
taining fine engravings of the celebrated LILIUM AURATUM,
Hyacinth, Ranunculus, Anemone, Tulip, Crocus, Cyclamen, Japan
Lily, &c., with accurate descriptions, and explicit directions for the
culture of each variety, will be mailed to all applicants enclosing
Ten Cents.

Collections containing a fine assortment of all the leading varie-
ties of the above will be mailed, post-paid, as follows : Collection
No. 1, $20.00; No. 2, $10.00; No. 3, $5.00; No. 4, $3.00. For
the contents of cash collection and further particulars, see Cata-
logue.

The following varieties of his selection will be mailed, post-paid,
to any address in the Union upon receipt of price affixed : —

Per doz.

Hyacinths, Double or single, fine named varieties $3 50

Hyacinths, Double or single, fine unnamed varieties 2 00

Hyacinths, Parisian, Double and single mixed 1 50

Tulips, Early double, fine named varieties 1 50

Tulips, Early double, fine mixed 75

Tulips, Early single, fine named varieties 1 50

Tulips, Early single, fine mixed 75

Tulips, Parrot, Fine mixed 1 00

Tulips, JSybloemen, Bizarres and rose, fine named 3 00

Tulips, Bybloemen, Fine mixed 1 00

Tulips, Various sorts mixed 75

Crocus, Mixed, blue, white, yellow, and striped 25

Crocus, Finest named varieties 50

Polyanthus Narcissus, Finest named varieties 2 50

Polyanthus Narcissus, Fine mixed 1 50

Jonquils, Double 1 50

Jonquils, Single, sweet scented 75

Iris, English, Fine mixed varieties 1 00

Iris, Spanish, Fine mixed varieties 75

Ranunculus, Fine mixed varieties 50

Anemones, Fine mixed varieties 50

Gladiolus, Hardy, fine mixed varieties 1 00

Snoivdrops, Double 75

Snowdrops, Single 40

Hyacinthus, Fine mixed varieties 75

Croivn Imperial, Fine mixed varieties 5 00

Lilium Auratum, A new superb variety from Japan, each . 5 00

Japan Lily, Red and White, each 50 cts., per doz 5 00

White Lily (Lilium candidum) , . . . 1 50

White Lily, Double, each 40 cents, per doz 4 00

White Lily, Striped, " 40 " " 4 00

Lily of the Valley 2 oo

Pteonies, Twenty varieties 4 00

No orders will be filled at these prices for less than the number
specified.

J. E. TILTOX & CO/S PUBLICATIONS.

THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

BY W. C. STRONG.

" This book, in all that relates to its mechanical execution, is simple
elegant; and of the matter and manner of the author we can also speak in
very high terms. He is evidently a practical vigneron, and, for the guid-
ance of the inexperienced, has aimed to give plain, simple, concise rules,
not novel, but practical and approved. His opening chapter is historical.
The second treats of the vine in a botanical point of view. The third and
fourth contain all that one need know to enable him to increase his stock
of vines, either by cuttings in the open air, or in hotbeds, or by layering
and grafting. The next four chapters are upon soil, situation, planting,
and training. There is a new mode of training, mentioned as in course of
experiment, and therefore not given as a decided success, to which we call
particular attention.

" In the chapter upon manures, which gives a long catalogue of such as
are suitable, the reader will find one fact, of greater importance than any
other, about fertilization, stated in these words : ' The mechanical con-
dition of the soil is quite as important a consideration as its fertility.'
Potash (in wood-ashes), lime, and bone-dust take the lead of all fertiliz-
ers, in the opinion of Mr. Strong. Coal-ashes are also recommended for
the sulphate of lime they contain, and also for their mechanical effects
upon a soil somewhat stiff. Ashes, lime, bone, he prefers composted with
peat, or similar earth ; and, if stable-manure is applied, let it be put on in
autumn.

" The closing chapter is one of the most valuable, if not altogether the
most so, in the book; and it is all the more valuable because it contains
matter which will offend a good many readers, who find their pet varie-
ties in the rejected list, or see it boldly and authoritatively stated that
one sort is only some other well-known sort figuring under a new name."
— New -York Tribune.

J. E. TILTON & CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

" This is an elegantly printed volume of 350 pages, embellished with
illustrations designed to aid those using- it in the better execution of the
work of vine planting, trellising, and culture. It is a work we can confi-
dently recommend to all our readers in pursuit of knowledge in relation
to the culture of the Grape, as it regards propagation, layering and graft-
ing, soil and situation, planting, modes of training, distances and trellises,
management and pruning, methods of hastening maturity, manures, dis-
eases, insects, miscellaneous items, culture under glass, — comprising also
a description of varieties, both hardy and exotic, with lists of each for
amateurs. A new book, with such contents, by a highly intelligent, practi-
cal, and successful vine-grower, one who is experimenting with all the
new varieties, and growing the best old ones, cannot but be just what
every amateur and beginner needs, and should have."— Cultivator.

" It is real pleasure to read this book. The information with which it
abounds is conveyed in a clear and easy style, analyzed so carefully as to
make the volume a vine-grower's manual, and yet so agreeably imparted,
that an ordinary reader would peruse the book with interest. With every-
thing that pertains to the history and culture of the Grape, the book is
furnished ; the illustrations are abundant and intelligible ; and the excel-
lence of the typography, paper, and engraving, makes it quite a contrast
to ordinary agricultural works." — New -York Observer.

Price in muslin, extra . . $3.00 Half calf, or half morocco . $5.00
Full turkey $6.00

J. E. TILTON & CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

Garden Flowers, and How to Cultivate Them,

BY EDWARD S. RAND, JR.,

AUTHOR OF " FLOWERS FOR THE PARLOR AND GARDEN."

" J. E. Tilton & Co. have added two more books to the very valuable
books on Gardening already published by them. One of these is ' Garden
Flowers, and How to Cultivate Them.' The author is Mr. E. S. Rand, jun. ;
and the book is a treatise on the culture of hardy, ornamental trees, shrubs,
annuals, herbaceous and bedding plants. The book is elegantly printed
and bound, and has many delicate illustrations. It is in the form of an
alphabetical index, which gives the name of the plant, its varieties, a de-
scription of each, and such information as may further the design of the
author in imparting accurate knowledge of a subject interesting1 to every
one who has a garden or a lawn, or who cultivates flowers, shrubbery, or
trees. The book supplies a want long felt, and which other treatises have
only partially met. It explains the conditions under which plants live
and thrive ; and, in short, gives to every reader the abundant knowledge
possessed by the writer. Mr. Rand is already known to the public by his
work on ' Parlor Gardening.' A third volume from his pen, describing
' Greenhouse Plants,' is now in press. The three volumes are essential
both to the florist and amateur." — Com. Adv.

" This is a work, which, much as it was needed, has never before been
placed before the public. It is a full, comprehensive book of garden flow-
ers, for the use of all who cultivate them, conveying the very sort of knowl-
edge that amateurs will seek, — the preparation of soil, the application of

J. E. TILTOX & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS.

manures^ the sowing of seed, the formation of hotbeds, and an immense
list to select from, of hardy perennial, biennial, annual, and bedding
plants. All the plants mentioned are alphabetically named, with their dif-
ferent varieties, height, length, and other peculiarities, and founded on the
best authorities. This bids fair to become a popular and standard horticul-
tural publication." — Chicago Journal.

" This elegant book is a credit to American agricultural literature. It is
a work of 384 pages, beautifully printed on tinted paper, and illustrated by
many appropriate engravings.

"It was undertaken, as the author says, to supply the want, which has
long been felt, of a trustworthy hand-book of garden flowers; one which
should comprise a short treatise on the culture of hardy perennials, bien-
nials, and annuals, as well as the more showy family of bedding plants.
The volume, therefore, contains concise directions for the culture of every
plant usuaiiy met with in the garden, including trees, shrubs, and climbers.

" This, it must be seen, is an extremely interesting field of practical in-
vestigation; and the author is entitled to the thanks and the patronage of
the community for the complete and able manner in which he has entered
upon and presented it. We can cheerfully commend the work to florists
and gardeners, and to all others interested in the subject." — Mass.
Ploughman.

Price, cloth $3/>0 Half calf, or half morocco . $5.00

Turkey morocco $0.00

J. E. TILTOX & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS.

THE PARLOR GARDENER.

A Treatise on the House Culture of Ornamental Plants. Translated
from the French, and adapted to American use. By CORNELIA J. RAN-
DOLPH, of Virginia. With eleven illustrative cuts.

A bijou of a book. Every lady who cultivates flowers will want a copy.
It will teach them how to bring a bit of nature into all their homes, and give
them in their parlors some of the pleasures of out-door life. It contains
minute directions for " the mantle-piece garden," the " etagere garden,"
" the flower-stand garden," " the portable green-house," " the house aqua-
rium," the garden upon the balcony, the terrace, and the double window,
besides describing many curious and interesting experiments in grafting.
The book is neatly printed, beautifully illustrated, and is just the size for a
pocket companion.

Price $1.00

po

<* »,* •

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY