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Accession No VS'.^WS*.

Bulletin 105 January, 1904

NEW HAMPSHIRE COLLEGE

Agricultural Experiment Station

FRUIT GROWING

WITH A

SELECTED LIST OF VARIETIES

FOR NEW HAMPSHIRE

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Variety Plum Orchard ( College).

BY F. WM. RANE

NEW HAMPSHIRE COLLEGE
OF

AGRICULTURE AND THE MECHANIC ARTS

DURHAM

NEW HAMPSHIRE COLLEGE

OF

AGRICULTURE AND THE MECHANIC ARTS

AGEICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION

DURHAM, N. H.

BOARD OF CONTROL

Hon. JOHN G. TALLANT, Chairman, Pembroke.
Hon. GEORGE A. WASON, New Boston.
CHARLES W. STONE, A. M., Secretary, East Andover.
Hon. WARREN BROWN, Hampton Falls.
Pres. WILLIAM D. GIBBS, ex-officio, Durham.

STATION COUNCIL

WILLIAM D. GIBBS, M. S., Director.
FRED W. MORSE, M. S., Chemist and Vice- Director,
CLARENCE M. WEED, D. Sc, Entomologist.
FRANK WILLIAM RANE, B. Ag., M. S., Horticultur-
ist.
FREDERICK W. TAYLOR, B. S., Agriculturist.
EDWARD L. SHAW, B. S., Associate Agriculturist.
IVAN C. WELD, Dairyman.

ASSISTANTS

H. H. SCUDDER, B. S., Assistant Chemist.
HARRY F. HALL, Assistant in Horticulture.
JOHN C. BRIDVVELL, B. S., Assistant Entomologist.
PERCY A. CAMPBELL, Farm Foreman.
MABEL E. TOWNSHEND, A. B., Stenographer.

I.

CONDITIONS ESSENTIAL TO SUCCESS IN FRUIT CULTURE

F. WM. RANE

Soils adapted for growing almost any kind of tillable crops
and in good heart will grow fruits. The mistake is often
made that the best of our farm fields are too good for fruit
and should be retained for agriculture. No land is too good
for fruit growing, and when one realizes that the profits
derived from fruits usually average from two to ten times that
of general agricultural crops on the same area, why should
they not be given first place? Fruits do and will grow on
our rocky hillsides and worthless fields, but this does not
prove that for best results they should be planted in such situ-
ations. When preparing the soil to receive fruits, extra
attention should be given it. The deeper the soil is stirred
and the better its physical and mechanical condition the better
the results to be obtained. When the trees or bushes are set
they must have continued care and attention. The appear-
ance of the trees and bushes themselves usually tells the story.
If the plants are given proper nourishment and culture, they
will make quick growth and rapid development, but it
allowed to shift for themselves, they become stunted and eke
out a miserable and usually an unprofitable existence. Many
plow up a field and set out a fruit plantation one season ; the
next it is in sod and forgotten. In about eight years, when
apple trees, for example, should be coming into bearing, in-
stead of picking fruit, it is often a hard matter to find the trees
themselves. Fruit trees, like animals, are living things, and
unless fed and cared for they are not to blame for not doing
their best. Animals can forage for themselves, if neglected,

SPRAYING AND DRAINAGE 5

to some extent, while plants cannot, hence the more care
needed.

Pruning and training should be well understood. Have in
mind the shape and form desired, and conform the plant to it
by regular, annual pruning. By never allowing ill-shaped
limbs or branches to become established, the cutting off of
large limbs is obviated.

Spraying for both insect enemies and fungous diseases is a
part of the fruit business. If one does not intend to post him-

Fig. x. — Varieties of Pears.

self on how to combat these foes, he had better not attempt
fruit growing at all. Considering the amount of literature
and general information so readily available, there is little
-excuse for not being informed about the commoner troubles.

Good drainage, natural or artificial, is essential to success.
Drained soils give ideal conditions for root development.
They can be worked earlier in the spring, and in either wet
or dry seasons are little affected and give uniform condi-
tions.

6

SUCCESS IN FRUIT CULTURE

The kind and amount of tillage for fruits are debatable-
questions. Tillage is a means to an end. The main thing
desired is fruit production, and in order to get results the
trees or bushes one is growing for that purpose must be con-
sidered in that light. Clean culture, the Hitchings method, or
any other culture or method, is good in proportion as to-
results obtained. When trees are young they must not be
allowed to become dwarfed. Sufficient tillage or proper
mulching, fertilizing, and handling to ensure proper growth

Fig. 4. — Varieties of Pears.

if the tree is young, or for sustenance and fruitfulness if a
mature tree, are what is wanted. Become a good judge ot
plant life, and the question of tillage will naturally solve itself.
Conditions, soils, locations, etc., vary so much that definite
recommendations are impracticable. When and how often to
plow, cultivate, fertilize, etc., therefore, will depend upon
one's best judgment. Only be sure that one exercises and
executes this and results will be in proportion.

Soils that are well drained and land that is deeply worked

COVER CROPS AND TILLAGE 7

offer inducements for trees to send their roots deep down and
fortify themselves against drought. The habits of orchards
are established according to their earlier treatment, hence this
should be done well.

Generally speaking, all cultivation of fruit plantations
should stop as early as the latter part of summer. Our New
England winters are cold, and fruit trees should be well
matured to withstand them. By slightly rounding up the
soil, rendering good surface drainage at the last cultivation,
giving it time to become firm and well compacted, conditions
result by which the trees will come through the winter in
good shape. The sowing of some green crop, such as clovers,
vetches, etc., the so-called cover crop, for keeping the soil

Fig. 5. — Burbank Plums (Japan).

from washing, and serving as a protection in winter, is rec-
ommended.

Can we afford to grow other crops in our orchards or fruit
plantations? When the plants are young and do not require
the full use of the land, good judgment seems to tell us that
cultivated crops are allowable, and will assist in paying for
the expense of cultivation and investment. Whenever the
crop grown is in any way detrimental to the fruit plantation
it is a mistake. A hoed crop is preferable to any cereal or
grass crop. The latter usually robs the trees of moisture and
does not allow of cultivation. Even hoed crops should not

8

SUCCESS IN FRUIT CULTURE

stand above the tree roots, and should be grown early in the
season only. When crops are grown among fruits they should
not take from the food supply of the soil, but leave it in better
condition than before. Feed the land for both crops. I have
seen orchards that have been under such high culture that
they produced both a profitable hay and apple crop at the
same time for a period of years, but these are exceptional.
When the trees reach maturity they should not divide their

Fig. 6. — Chabot Plums (Japan).

nourishment with other crops, but conserve it for fruit pro-
duction.

The best fertilizers for the young fruit plantation are those
rich in all the essentials of growth, as our barn manures and
complete fertilizers, but bearing plantations do best when a
liberal application is made of fertilizers composed largely of
potash and phosphoric acid. These latter ingredients go
largely to supply the tree or bush with elements necessary for
fruit production. While it is growth that is wanted in case
of the young tree, it is fruit that is desired in the mature tree,

FERTILIZERS FOR FRUITS

and comparatively little growth. Ashes and muriate of pot-
ash are the most common sources of potash. One to two
tons of wood ashes, or 400 to 800 pounds of muriate of pot-
ash, are considered a good application per acre for bearing
orchards.

Phosphoric acid is the fertilizer next in importance to pot-
ash, and the bone fertilizers, plain high-grade superphosphate,
and Thomas slag are the common sources. Three to five
hundred pounds is a good dressing.

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Fig. 7. — A Chabot Plum Tree in fruit. Currants and gooseberries grown between

the rows.

Nitrogen promotes growth. Be cautious, therefore, to use
but little of it for fruiting plants. Sufficient nitrogen can be
obtained through tillage, and nitrogenous green manures.
Green manures apply humus to the soil and improve its
fertility.

In a nut shell, fruit culture is growing fruits under rational
methods and giving the plants under consideration as near
ideal conditions as we can. Culture, adaptable varieties,
spraying, fertilizing, etc., must be studied, and practised if
we expect results.

IO

SUCCESS IN FRUIT CULTURE

II. WHAT VARIETIES TO PLANT

There is much inquiry at the present time for information
from the Experiment Station as to what varieties of fruits are
the best for planting. To answer this demand to the satis-
faction of all is not an easy task. There are many varying

Fig. 8.— Grand Duke Plums.

conditions that enter into the case, as adaptable soils, loca-
tions, tastes, etc., rendering the task a perplexing one. After
having been connected with the horticultural interests of the
state for some time, however, the writer feels he can make no
mistake in offering the following recommendations :

These are only suggestive and while, in our judgment, they
are the best, they may be somewhat altered to meet one's con-
ditions and tastes. They will form a good foundation to work
from.

VARIETIES OF FRUITS

II

We little realize as yet the possibilities of New Hamp-
shire as a fruit state. The writer has traveled from one
end of the state to the other, and is willing to go on record
as saying that profitable fruit of some sort or other can be
grown on every farm in the commonwealth. Many fruits
are sadly neglected which, if their culture were better under-
stood, would not only contribute to pleasant and gainful occu-
pations but provide us with the good things that are ours by
right. We need not depend upon western New York for
our grapes entirely. Mr. J. E. Bachelder of Wilton has been
growing a few acres for years at a good profit. Peaches are
a profitable crop in a number of sections where tried in the
southern part of the state, and doubtless could be made a
success in many others, if attempted under modern methods.
Apples grow everywhere, even in the White Mountains, pro-
vided proper selections are made and culture given. The
Baldwin is tender in the northern portion of the state, but
here the Bethel, Wealthy, and other hardy varieties of Rus-
sian blood or origin are substituted. Cherries, even the old-
time hardy sour vari-
eties, are seldom seen
while thev can be

J

•easily grown. Plums
are coming in, but
should receive more
attention. Pears have
a straggling exist-
ence, but are seldom
■grown as a com-
mercial crop. Small
fruits of all kinds do
well everywhere in

Fig. 9. — Bradshaw Plums.

the state, and our markets are too often filled with black-
berries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, and strawberries
largely from without the state, when they should be coming
from our own farms and gardens.

It is not our intention to go into the discussion of fruit
culture in detail at this time, as much is to be had from the
current literature along this line. If special information is

12

SUCCESS IN FRUIT CULTURE

desired, it is best to write to the Experiment Station direct,
and we can then recommend the books or bulletins best treat-
ing the case in question.

If any one has varieties of fruits such as apples, the names
of which they do not know, send a few specimens to the Ex-
periment Station, and see if they can be identified. The hor-
ticultural class in fruit growing here at the college had over
one hundred varieties of apples for study the present season.
Sometimes varieties are wrongly named also.

Above all, let us set out enough fruit trees for our family
use, if for no other purpose, and take a little pride in having
a variety of them. Our farm homes are what we make them,
and if we do not have plenty of fruits it is our own fault.

In making the following list we realize that there are many
splendid varieties that ripen at the same time as those listed,
and compete with them closely. We have selected the lists
with the idea of season and market as well as home consump-
tion, and limited the varieties to as few as we could and at the
same time meet all requirements. In strictly commercial or-
chards we should recommend that the list be reduced to a very

few varieties, not
using more than
from one to three
varieties fro m
each list. The
mistake of select-
ing too many va-
rieties is a com-
mon one. For
family use a few
trees of apples,
for example, can
be grafted with
as many varieties as one cares for, thus allowing the remain-
ing trees of the orchard to be alike.

Fig. io. — Niagara Plums.

THE APPLE

Our list of apples for general recommendation is the' fol-
lowing, named in order of importance:

VARIETIES OF APPLES

J3

Summer

Williams,
Red Astrachan,

Oldenburg.

Autumn and Early Winter

Gravenstein,
Mcintosh,

Wealthy,

Winter

Baldwin,

Spy,

R. I. Greening,

Red Canada (Nonesuch),

Roxbury Russet,

King,

Hubbardston,
Grimes Golden.

Ben Davis,
Jonathan,
Pewaukee,
Granite Beauty,
Bethel.

Wv

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41

Fig. ii. — Wyant Plums.

For a sweet apple the Tolman, although green in color, we
believe to be the best.

For the northern part of the state I would substitute Bethel
for Baldwin to head the list of winter varieties with Pewaukee
second. •

From consultation with leading commission men and apple
buyers we find that a red apple is preferred upon the market
to any other. While there are occasional exceptions, other

H

SUCCESS IN FRUIT CULTURE

things being equal, red varieties will bring from fifty cents to
one dollar and a half more per barrel.

Standard apple trees should stand about 40 by 40 feet apart
when mature. Some varieties do not grow as large as others,
and may be set closer but this is usually a mistake.

Fig. 12. — A branch of the Mountain Rose Peach Tree, as growing in New

Hampshire.

Fillers, or apple trees that come into bearing at an early
age, "are being set quite commonly of late. These are set
equidistant between the standard trees and are cut out before
the latter become crowded. The peach, plum, dwarf pears,
etc., are also more or less used for the same purpose.

VARIETIES OF PEARS

'5

THE PEAR

The list of pears we recommend for planting is as fol-
lows :

Anjou, Vermont Beauty,

Bosc, Onondaga,

Sheldon, Lawrence,

Clairgeau, Duchess,

Seckel, Bartlett.

Fig. 13. — The Alexander and Triumph Peaches (Early Varieties).

Pears are either dwarfs or standards. Dwarfs are the results
of budding pears on quince stocks.

Standards are planted twenty to thirty feet apart each way,
depending on the vigor of the variety. Dwarfs are planted
ten to fifteen feet apart each way.

Dwarf varieties are " coming in " in many fruit sections.
Early bearing, ease of pruning, spraying, and picking, etc.,
are some of the claims made for them.

i6

SUCCESS IN FRUIT CULTURE

For commercial purposes choose fewer varieties and hence
have more of the same kind. Pears, especially dwarfs, enjoy
high culture.

PLUMS

Plums are grown in a limited way in most sections of the
state. There are many varieties to select from, all of which

Fig. 14. — The Moore's Early Grape (Dark Blue color).

do well. The plum is very valuable for canning as well as a
dessert fruit. The following list we recommend :

Burbank,

Abundance,

Lombard,

Bavay (New Green Gage),

Wickson,

Chabot,

Pond,

Golden Drop,
Grand Duke,
Bradshaw,
Niagara.

Jar for the curculio, cut out and destroy the black knot,
and spray with the Bordeaux mixture.

For the colder sections of the state the following varieties
are recommended :

VARIETIES OF PLUMS

17

Stoddard,

Quaker,

Surprise,

Hawkeye,

Wyant,

Cheney.

A few plum growers recommend the growing of the York
State and Fellenberg prunes as plums, claiming that they are'

Fig. 15. — Varieties of dark colored grapes: Worden, Concord, Eaton, and Early

Ohio.

preferred on account of the easy removal ot the pits and less
.acidity.

i8

SUCCESS IN FRUIT CULTURE

The distance for setting plums varies according to the
variety, from 12 to 25 feet each way.

Fig. 16. — First three red or wine color and last white. Brighton, Wyoming,

Delaware, and Green Mountain.

CHERRIES

This is a crop well deserving of more attention in the state.
The sour or canning cherries can be easily grown, and the
demand is far greater than the supply. The following varie-
ties are recommended: Montmorency, Morello, Brusseller,
Braune, Bessarabian.

PEACHES 19

The sweet or heart-shaped cherries are successfully grown
only in a limited way in the southern part of the state. These
are very delicious fruit, and the following are some of the
better varieties: Black Tartarian, Coe's Transparent, Gov-
ernor Wood, Napoleon, Windsor, Yellow Spanish.

Sour cherries are set from 16 to 20 feet apart each way.
Sweet varieties require more room, and should be planted 30
feet apart. The cherry-tree slug is one of the worst insects.

Fig. 17. — The Green Mountain Grape (White color).

Control it by spraying. Other insects and diseases peculiar
to the plum also affect the cherry.

PEACHES

Throughout the southern half of the state peaches can be
grown more or less successfully. Doubtless this fruit suffers
from neglect as much as any grown. When given good cul-
ture, we believe that the peach can be made quite an impor-
tant crop in the state. We have an example of one tree about
fifty years of age and bearing a good crop of fruit.

20

SUCCESS IN FRUIT CULTURE

The two varieties that I have found most generally planted
and giving good results are the Early Crawford and the Moun-
tain Rose. Oldmixon is also more or less common. The
Elberta is highly thought of, and is being quite largely
planted. The Triumph is giving good results for an early
variety. Foster, Crosby, Stump, Alexander, etc., are also
planted more or less.

The usual distance for peaches is 16 to 20 feet apart each

Fig. 18.— The Niagara Grape (White).

way. Clean culture and renewed plantations every six to ten
years are recommended for best results.

QUINCES

This fruit is little grown here. Now and then a bush is
found on the older estates. The quince is perfectly hardy,
with a long season for marketing, not perishable, and if given
a little care and modern culture, we believe it will be a suc-
cess. Fire-blight is the worst disease of the quince. This
rshould be cut out and burned whenever detected. Spray for

GRAPES AND BLACKBERRIES 21

the codling moth and leaf-blight, and for the curculio. Borers
also must be looked after.

The Orange or Apple variety is the only variety commonly
planted. The Champion is a much later variety, but often
too late for many seasons in this climate. The Rea is larger
than the Orange, but the bush is small and not so productive.
The distance recommended for planting is usually 8 to 12 feet
each way. If one has plenty of ground, 15 feet is still better.

GRAPES

With some little care in getting the young plants well es-
tablished, after the first three years of growth the hardier and
earlier varieties do well in New Hampshire. If well cared for,
the Concord can usually be made to ripen, while those varie-
ties earlier than the Concord can usually be depended upon.
Moore's Early, Worden, Eaton, and Early Ohio are among the
best black or blue varieties ; Wyoming Red, Brighton, and Del-
aware among the red varieties ; and Green Mountain or Win-
chell, Niagara, and Diamond are the best white varieties.

Grapes are planted 8 to 12 feet apart each way. The com-
mon way of training is to use two wires upon posts, the first
being eighteen inches to two feet from the ground, and the
second two to three feet above this. Number 12 wire is most
commonly used. Clean culture, intelligent fertilizing, proper
pruning and training, and careful spraying is almost sure to
bring results in grape growing.

BLACKBERRIES

This excellent fruit should be planted in rows at least six
feet apart, with plants four feet apart in the row. The varie-
ties we should recommend are Ancient Briton, Snyder, and
Tyler. These are hardy, productive, and good. The Early
Harvest and Wilson are productive varieties and very valu-
able, but need winter protection.

Blackberries, raspberries, and other bush fruits are usually
given annual primings. The nature of the bush fruits is to
renew themselves with new growth, at which time the old
canes should be taken out. This work can be done any time
after fruiting, but is usually delayed until the following spring,

22

SUCCESS IN FRUIT CULTURE

before growth starts, when the broken and winter-killed parts,
etc , can also be taken out.

RASPBERRIES

The variety of red raspberries that stands without any equal
and most commonly planted is the Cuthbert. The Marlboro
is an old variety that ripens early, and comes next to the
Cuthbert as a profitable fruit. The Golden Queen is rich
yellow in color, and is sometimes sought after. It is a seed-
ling of the Cuthbert.

Of the blue canes the Shaffer and Columbian are the best.
These are supposed to be crosses or hybrids between the red

Fig. 19. — Three valuable varieties of Red Currants : Cherry, Wilder, and Fay.

and black cap raspberries. They are very productive, or
deep purple color, hardy, and late.

The black cap varieties are not very generally grown,
although it is believed they can be made a profitable crop in
most sections of the state. Strange to say, they seem to be in

CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES

23

nearly as great demand locally where grown as the red varie-
ties. The main varieties are Kansas, Gregg, Palmer, Souhe-
gan, Older, and Tyler. Plant reds 3 by 6 feet, and others
3 by 8 feet apart.

Fig. 20. — Varieties of English Gooseberries : Columbus, Chatauqua, and Red

Jacket.

CURRANTS

This fruit, while more or less commonly found in gardens,
nevertheless is as much neglected as any fruit we grow. It is
commonly recognized that no matter how one mistreats the
currant, it still has value. If it will flourish without care,
what can we expect from it if given proper culture?

The best varieties of red currants are Wilder, Cherry, and
Fay ; white, White Grape ; black, Black or English currants,
Black Naples, Champion, and Lee. The red varieties are
what are usually wanted, although we have found the English
currants very profitable of late. The currant is best set 4 by 6
feet. Keep the currant worm ofF with hellebore, and give
high culture.

GOOSEBERRIES

Practically the same culture and general handling is re-
quired by the gooseberry as given to the currant. The Down-

24

SUCCESS IN FRUIT CULTURE

ing and Houghton, together with improved seedlings, are the
principal varieties of American origin. Even the seedlings
Pearl and Champion, however, are small, and the varieties of
English origin bring the best prices in the market. The
drawback to the English varieties is the mildew, but this
can be overcome by spraying with liver of sulphur. The
Chatauqua, Columbus, Industry, Lancashire Lad, and Keep-
sake are a good list. The currant worm, if anything, makes
its attack on the gooseberry first, and needs the same treat-
ment as when on the currant. The plants are given the same
distance as currants, 4 by 6 feet.

STRAWBERRIES

We should recommend for the best list of strawberries the
following varieties, which Mr. Geo. F. Beede of Fremont,
our veteran New Hampshire grower, places in the following
order: Dunlap, Sample, Bubach, and Brandywine. The
first and last named are perfect flowering, and the other two
are imperfect, requiring a perfect flowering variety to be
planted with them for fertilization. Other varieties com-
monly grown are Clyde, Haverland, Lovett, Beverly, Mar-
shall, Glen Mary, etc. For further particulars regarding
strawberry culture, send for Bulletin No. 74 of this station,
which is sent free upon application.

Fig. 21. — Varieties of American Gooseberries: Houghton, Downing, and Pearl.

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