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CASSELI'S
POPULAR GARDENING.
EDITED BY
er oe iS.
ASSISTED IN TEE PRESENT VOLUME BY
Mr. EDWARD W. BADGER, Dein JES. BGS Mr. RICHARD DEAN, ZLZaling, W.
Mr. JAMES BRITTEN, F.L.S., British Mu- | MR. WILLIAM EARLEY, Jord, Essex.
Seum. Mr. WILLIAM HUGH GOWER, WNurseries,
Mr. WILLIAM CARMICHAEL, date Gardener Tooting.
to H.R. the Prince of Wales. Mr. JAMES HUDSON, Zhe Gardens, Gunners-
Mr. WILLIAM COLEMAN, Zhe Gardens, bury Louse, Acton, W.
Eastnor Castle, Ledbury. Dr. MAXWELL T. MASTERS, F.R.S.
Mr. WILLIAM WILDSMITH, Zhe Gardens, Heckfield Place, Winchfield, Hants.
C@ith numerous Jllustrattons.
F9 66%
Seal ELL Cae COUN A N Ya Limi Te pe
LONDON, PARTS, NEW YORK & MELBOURNE.
[ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ]
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INDEX OF CONTENTS.
COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS:
The Rock Rose—Lychnis—Globe Flower—-Po py
PAGE GLASS STRUCTURES AND APPLIANCES:
PAGE
Bell-glasses, Cloches, and Hand-lights—Glass and
—Potentilla Sap : bea ee OU Earthenware Protectors... sah Sse He 3
Barrenwort— Gentian—Ger So a eanso. Garden Frames 135
phylla—Achillea—Campanula or Hare.-bell 139 Pits 291
Sweet Peas—Scabious—Megasea—A merican Cows-
lip — Jacob’s - Ladder — Evening Primrose — GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS:
Sunflower 253
mioubeceriaw or P ie ee é Te opwort or Clianthus- -Cobcea—Coronilla—Corrzea— Crinoden-
Meadow-Sweet—The Catch-fly—The Ragwort dron— Crowea— Daphne - Dillwynia — Draco-
(Senecio) 343 phyllum—Dryandra—Eccremocarpus-—Eutaxia 51
Epacris—Erica as ; a : eS
Pere cton a= inacale atid _Gustaan — Gane is—
THE DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS: Genista— Gnidia—Gompholobium—Greyillea—
Introduction—Materials—Management and Pre- _Habr othamnus — Haworthia — Heliotropium—
. servation oot ap 125 “Hovea—Humea—Hydrangea 168
Dinner and other Table Decoration ... to 204: Tnantophylum — Knightia — Lapageria — eorottes
Drawing-room and Boudoir—Entrance Halls aa naultia—Leucopogon—Lisianthus — Lomatia—
Corridors—Single Plants for Rooms 275 Luculia—Macleania—Magnolia — Mandevilla—
Personal Decorations —Bouquets 336 Mesembryanthemum—Mitraria—Mutisia 244
Myrsiphyllum — My) rtus — Nerium — Passiflora —
FERNS: Pentapterygium — Phzenocoma — SO
Pimelexa— Plumbago — Polygala — Primula —
Alsophilas — Actiniopteris — Anemias — Todeas — Psammisia en - 315
Acrostichums—Lomarias ... —.. 61 Pultenza— Bowden dvonBithardia’- Solute.
The Ppedanthes ~Gleichenias—Pteris 194 Statice — Stenocarpus — Tacsonia — Tecoma
Hymenophyllums—Trichomanes 286 Testudinaria — Tetratheca—Thibaudia—Vacci
The Onocleas—The Lygodiums 372 num 361
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS: THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN:
Z Importance of Fruit—Site, Soil, and Shelter 26
ee o8 Arrangement 122
pee 70 The Apple: Propagation 162
The Gloxinia The Hollyhoek The paar 188 Apples—Planting ... sa 249
The Pelargonium—The Pentstemon ... 292 Apples—Pruning and Forming... 320
The Petunia—The Phlox-—-The Pink .. 361
THE KITCHEN GARDEN:
eee 40 WEE CARDEN: Salsafy—Scorzonera—Sea-Kale—Spinach 56
Vases and Baskets... 48 New Zealand Spinach—Tomatoes—Turnips 105
Winter Bedding 85 Simultaneous Cropping ... a2 185
Spring Bedding—Spring lower 174 Monthly Calendar of Work to be mans 238
Keeping and General Culture _.. 202 Monthly Calendar (continued) ... 309
iv CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS: PAGE THE PINE-APPLE (continued) : PAGE,
Cells and Vessels ... Eat He Se ae wre 8) Cultivation (continued) ... es bs 261
Roots and Root-stocks ... ae a a ee Insects which affect the Pime — Varieties of
The Leaves and What They Do ae as a) OS Pines”... i ee ae one ae ... 349
What the Leaves Do—The Sap... as Fo was
Growth fei be se ihc a5 ae we 300 z
ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING:
ORCHIDS: : General Principles of Construction ... aE Ee i
Alpine Plants hs ie on es 5h ed
Introduction—Acanthophippium—Acineta — Acro- Alpine Plants eared). ed s fe .. 154
pera—Adda—Aerides Beh see, see ce List of Alpine Plants ... 0 i. ss)
Anmtochilus—Angracum—Anguloa... 88 List of Alpine Plants (continucd) ... . +» 326
Ansellia—Arpophyllum—Barkeria — Batemannia—
Bletia—Bolbophyllum — Bollea —- Brassavola—
Brassia—Broughtonia—Burlingtonia ... ae ANS THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE:
Calanthe—Catasetum—Cattleya— Chysis— Cimrho- Pruning Roses = ee ae ue a os 9
petalum—Ceelogyne ... Fe ‘ sss Bee Training... 5 oe as a
Colax — Comparettia — Coryanthes — C y casnee Roses on Walls, ia 4 Walls of E Roses . ao = 2B
Cymbidium—Cypripedium... = as ... 299 Roses for Pillars, Pyramids, Arches and
Cyrtopodium—Dendrobiun _... ae Ba ag (O10 Arbours ... Ve = aN jee ae wee OOU
THE PINE-APPLE: THE VINE AND ITS FRUIT:
Introduction—Pine-houses 533 si ne 33!) Diseases of the Vine — List of Remarkable
Propagation—Cultivation ses sap ae ... 146 Vines... ae 3% x aus ae Set ee
CAS othe i 5
PoPULAR GARDENING.
ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD
GARDENING.
GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF CONSTRUCTION.
=
‘i
AY; to be mistaken for it, while
providing all the most foster-
ing growing conditions pos-
sible to the highest art, may
be described as the perfection
of rock building and furnish-
ing. In the majority of
rockeries there is an excess
of stone or other hard mate-
rial, and a sad scarcity of
suitable soil for the culture
of the plants. The rock is
too often made the main
thing, the earth and the
plants the secondary. This is a structural error
that can hardly be remedied afterwards, and
has smitten thousands of artificial rocxeries with
a barrenness that has robbed them cf the major
portion of their interest and beauty. An excess of
stone, lava, or other hard material is as improvident
as it proves unsuccessful. It costs money, as wellas
invites or insures failure. Not seldom tons upoy
tons of rock material have been purchased and
carted from long distances, and piled up into mounds
or raised into spiky pinnacles, at enormous cost,
while far more effective and suitable base-lines
could have been formed on'the spot. Earth of some
sort —soil or subsoil, chalk, gravel, or rock —is
always present, and this can be thrown into the
most erratic forms, and disposed into an irregularity
of surface that shall render repetition or monotony
impossible.
The Base.—The earth is at once the cheapest,
most stable, and suitable base for rock-work of all
25
sorts and for all purposes—whether for Alpines only
mixtures of Alpines, herbaceous plants and shrubs:
ferns; or a mixture of ferns and flowering plants.
As a rule, not only is there too much rock used, and
visible—alike on artistic and cultural grounds—
but the effect is frittered away in a multiplicity of
tiny elevations and depressions that degrade the
rock-work into the depths of puny insignificance.
Too much is attempted in the limited area. A few
bold smaller mounds and deeper depressions, a little
rolling ground, and a few rugged rough rocks, would
give dignity to the smallest rockery, and raise the
larger to somewhat of the grandeur and sublimity of
nature. But the attempt to crowd the rich variety of a
hill or country-side into a few square yards converts
the most imposing attempts at the sublime into the
actually ludicrous. One tiny hill or rugged cliff
well formed and furnished, gives more satisfaction
than a hundred little goes, each as like to the other
as two peas, and all resulting in a rockery that is a
mockery of nature and a burlesque on art.
The Rock.—Instead of piling up stones, brick-
bats, clinkers, or lava in cart or barrow-loads, as the
base of rockeries, no hard materials should come on
to the ground till the general outline of the rockery
is already well and truly laid. Of course, where
very large stones are used, some of them may be
placed during the process of laying the earthy bases of
the rockery. But these and the whole of the so-called
rocks should be so placed as to crop out of, rather
than form the substance or base of the rock-work.
It is astonishing how far the rocky matters will go
when thus treated and managed. Each piece care-
fully posted may go farther than several cart-loads
on the higgledy-piggledy, hap-hazard style.
But it is not all who begin thus with the earth that
manage to finish an artistic rock-work. On the con-
trary, some of the worst samples seen by the writer
have been sc formed that the earth and every step of
the process can be traced for all future time. A regu.
lar or irregular earth-bank or series of tiny momiuils,
2 _ CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
resembling Brobdignagian mole-hills, are covered
with.a series of rocky pockets, as nearly as may be
of one uniform size, shape, and character. These
hideous pockets, as a rule, are far more conspicuous
than the plants that are supposed to fillthem. In
many examples they are far too shallow; in others
much too large for their occupants. Nota few of
these rockeries haunt our memory as we write—
they look as if a shower of slaty pieces of rock or
sandstone had fallen down on the semi-even ground-
line of the rockery, and had arranged themselves into
squares of equal or unequal sides nearly all over the
area occupied. Seen froma distance, the rock-work
somewhat resembles the worked-out ground-line of
a worn-out quarry. Approach nearer, to see the
plants, if any, and all the hideous deformity of the
pocket system run to seed becomes painfully manifest.
A perfect rockery, be it large or small, should
more resemble the sides than the floor of a quarry,
exhausted or otherwise. The rocks should rise
boldly—project here, recede there, and in places
boldly assert themselves. For though the chief use
of artificial rockeries is to afford picturesque-growing
sites for beautiful plants and flowers, yet the rocky
character of the base should be more prominently
apparent here and there. The attempt to utilise
each foot or yard of space, and to cover the whole of
the rocks with flowers or foliage, is as great a
mistake as the opposite one of having ten times more
rock than vegetable covering.
_ Regularity of form and of clothing is the ruin of
the majority of artificial rockeries. Nature, by her
various tiltings, upheavals, and depressions, varies to
infinity the rocky foundations of the earth. And
one of the chief charms of artificial rockeries con-
sists in choosing for our imitation specimens of
her most erratic performances. And yet where any
particular strata is chosen for imitation, in most
cases sufficient variety may be obtained in the
dips or tiltings of that particular formation, with-
out travelling far beyondit. But of course this is
more applicable to rockeries of great extent, and .
such as are seldom attempted in this country.
Most of our garden rockeries are a mixed lot,
formed of all sorts of odds and ends that can be col-
lected in the demesne or neighbourhood. Where
these- are not available, spar, iron clinkers, slag,
spoilt brick, fused pottery, cement, and various
compositions are employed. As a rule, the greatest
variety of rocky substances will be found in the
smallest rockery, and the absurd mixture of stone,
spoilt brick, flints, spar, refuse of glass works, old
gas retorts, clinkers, suffices to rob such rockeries of
any pretence to propriety or artistic taste.
Many of the evils arising from the use of excessive
variety of materials in rock-work may be hidden or
mitigated by the simple expedient of coating the
whole over with Portland cement, after being placed
in position. This converts the whole into rock of
one colour and character, and effectually hides up
the commonplace character of the materials em-
ployed.
But rock-work of artistic and imposing character
may be formed without any hard materials at all.
The base of the rockery may be formed of earth
only, and these earthy masses cased over on the spot
with cement. This can be moulded into any desired
form, and pinnacles and stalactites worked in or on
for effect where desired. It can also be faced, just
before setting, with smashed spar or ground stone,
of any desired sort or colour. How much can be
very well done in this way with a very slender ex-
penditure of time and money, cannot be known
without making trial of the system.
This mode of converting mere earth into rocks,
large or otherwise, at will, needs considerable know-
ledge and experience. But these acquired, it is
comparatively easy, and becomes one of the most
fascinating of all horticultural pursuits. The rocks
grow up, as it were, under the hand of the master,
and are fashioned into endless varieties of form and
style, as he lists.
Solidity.—This is of especial importance: the
earth should be moulded into the desired shape several
months or a year before the rocks are fashioned on
its surface. The necessity of great solidity of base
is of course apparent, and notwithstanding all that
may be done by ramming and treading, time, after
all, is the great consolidator. Earth-banks, hills,
and dales—even overhanging ledges and rugged
ravines—will stiffen into permanent shape more
thoroughly under a year’s shine and shower, frost
and thaw, than by any possible amount of mechani-
cal pressure in their making or afterwards. Care-
fuliy made and moulded, and left so for a year to
settle, the earth will seldom subside much after-
wards ; and should it slightly give way, most of the
artificial rocks of some two inches or more thick
will have strength sufficient to stand alone.
Other advantages arise from waiting, besides the
gain of solidity. The surfaces of the mounds will
thus be mellowed into greater sweetness and enriched
into a higher fertility. It is almost impossible te
over-estimate the importance of this; for the surface
that forms the bases of our rocks also furnishes the
plants with deep, rich, and amply sufficient root-runs.
For it must be observed that, as a rule, the pockets
made in the rocks are bottomless ; at all events, they
are not bottomed with rocks, but with soil of such ~
quality as shall sustain the vigour and fully develop —
the beauty of the plants grown on or beside the rocks.
Depth of Soil.—It is absolutely needful that the
goil should be deep and suitable; a depth of two feet
_or a yard is by no means excessive for Alpine plants.
' One of the most mischievous fallacies in regard to
these is that they need but little soil. As they are
- found apparently clinging to the sides of hard, hot
‘rocks, it: is too readily assumed that their root-runs
are shallow, hot, and dry. The very opposite of all this
- is more generally true. The roots run deep, into
deep fissures and seemingly unfathomable crevices,
and these are cool, as a rule, as well as deep. The
fact of their being crevices keeps them cool, for they
are full of air or water, both of which conduct heat
slowly, and though the sun may beat on the rock, a
few inches or a foot distant the roots in the crevices
are cool as the bracing air of morning in the early
spring-tide: Another cooling agency of great
: force is almost constantly at work to preserve the
_ roots of the plants cool. Many of them are deni-
q zens of mountain ranges, inhabiting regions less or
more removed from the snow-line. And thus it
happens, while their tops may be blooming against
_ the heated rocks, their roots are growing in snow-
‘a water, that is,in a temperature but little removed
_ above 32°. It is of course impossible to mete out all
these exact conditions to the roots of Alpine plants
under cultivation ; but the nearer we can approach
_ them in regard to the depth and coolness of the root-
_ runs, the better the plants will thrive.
_ Finally, the roots mnst be kept moist, as well as
_ cool. No doubt, even under natural conditions there
are exceptions to this rule. Not a few Alpine plants
- not only ‘‘lay their beauteous checks against the
_ thick-ribbed ice, and bid the dewdrops nurse them,”
but have little better or more liberal fare for their
4 roots. These will hold on to the barren rock, or live
_ in what seems mere stone, dust, or rocky débris.
_ But these are exceptions, and the rule is far other-
_ wise. The flow of water over the surface or through
the hidden fissures of rocks is seldom wholly arrested,
q unless in climates where the dry seasons wither into
forced rest all vegetation. The natural sites of
_ most Alpine plants insure a constant supply of watcr
for their roots, and it is almost impossible to over-
_ water the majority of such in dry weather, provided
_ always the drainage is ample and perfect. The
_ water must be kept in motion—moving water in
_ plenty and pure air, as far as may be obtained, being
the breath of life to these wild and free children of
Stagnant water and sooty, stuffy air is
nature.
' the touch of death to them; and yet not a few
_ nice collections of these plants may be found in or
_ near London, Manchester, Birmingham, Liverpool,
Glasgow, Edinburgh, Dublin, York, and other
_ large towns.
_ With proper root-runs, at once deep, cool, moist,
ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING. 3
and the tops frequently washed clean with garden
engine, syringe, or sponge—for cleanliness is the
parent of health in the garden as well as in the
home, the workshop, the counting-house, foundry,
or mine—the whole distance between the health
and beauty and disease and deformity of many
plants is included in the one word sanitation, or
cleanliness. It may almost be said that all things
are possible to the cultivator who keeps his plants
clean. How often this truth finds forcible illus-
tration in the homes of the poor! In one home
dirt reigns supreme, and the plants are jaun-
diced and their leaves stricken, killed by the suffo-
cating incubus of dirt. Next door the boards of the
floor, though rotten and rickety, shine through sheer
scrubbing, and the plants in the broken window
look as bright and healthy as those in the duchess’s
boudoir.
So vitally important is cleanliness to the health
of plants, that even Alpines may be successfully
cultivated wherever a bit of blue sky can be seen,
provided always that they are liberally fed and kept
scrupulously clean. Iirtand drought are their greatest
foes, and not a few 1ockeries are so constructed
as to intensify to the uttermost the evils of both.
Set in the teeth of the sun and of every wind
that blows, with cramped root-runs that hold only a
pinch of soil on an excessively pervious or wholly
impervious bottom, the roots are either in a state of
flood or of absolute want, and the plants droop and
die of necessity.
Never was the art of judging by appearances
farther from the truth, nor the cause of more absolute
failures, than in the case of Alpine plants. Compara-
tively few of them are even rock plants; accidents
of stature or of character have placed them where
they are found, that is, as a rule, in a well-watered
garden, with rich and varied root-runs, composed of
the denudation of rocks and the decomposition of
their own remains through a long series of years.
Hugging the snow-line for coolness and _ fo1
moisture, and to escape the shade of taller or
what is termed superior vegetation, they form a
fringe of verdure and of colour, and a connecting
link of matchless beauty between the vegetable and
mineral kingdoms. Within their zone they reign
supreme over nature—veritable vegetable queens,
alike superior to the rocks among and above them,
and the taller herbaceous plants, grasses, shrubs, and
trees lower down.
All this is most suggestive to the would-be suc-
cessful cultivator of such plants. The plants
themselves, and not the artistic piling up or esthetic
effects of the rocks, must be the chief points. In
the design and execution of the majority of rockeries
not only are there far more rocks than plants, but
4 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
the former dominate or dwarf the latter. The
highest art in this form of garden architecture or
landscape—for it is both—is so to introduce and
dispose of the rock as to improve the setting,
enhance the beauty, or add to the vigour or robust-
ness of the plants. The plants are nature’s jewels ;
the rocks—at least the artificial ones—are the setting
used to throw them up or out to higher purpose or
vantage.
Starting and holding on with vice-like tenacity to
this general principle would revolutionise many, and
improve nearly all, of the artificial rockeries in the
kingdom. And there would be this tangible benefit,
that whatever else failed, the plants would thrive
In Fig. 1 the plant is considerably overhung by the rocks, and is dwarfed in size in consequence.
te oe
did to the gems of art which they well-nigh extin-
guished by their enormous weight and gaudy giitter
of golden gilding. No more rock than is needfin!
for the setting, and our Alpineries and ferneries
would become gems of art, sensibly adding by their
verdure, brilliance, and grandeur to the artistic
enrichments of the garden, instead of, as now, so
often being the one unpleasant blot that mars its
whole character, and drags it down to the low level
of sheer vulgarity.
The Soil for Rock Plants.—Be its quality
what it may, its depth is of more importance than
its width, the roots of many Alpines boring more
)
Fig. 3.
But by
placing the plant slightly in advance of the rock, these evils are less apparent than if the plant had been
placed directly against its base.
grows the better on that account.
and be in health. It is not given to every one—
only, in fact, to very few—to observe and appropriate
to artificial uses nature’s tit-bits of rockscape; but
almost any one who starts on the firm, safe ground
that every plant must have good soil and plenty
of water to grow it to perfection, is on the high
road to cultural success. So vitally important
is the latter, and such horrid abortions are many
rockeries, that one is ready to exclaim, ‘“‘ Perish the
rocks, if the plants will only live, thrive, and
flower!” Some of them will do far better without
rocks than with, on, or among them; and some of
the most effective banks, mounds, borders, and beds
of Alpine plants have been wholly rockiess.
But this is written not to discourage rockeries,
but to give emphasis to the advice to consider the
plants first and last. If this is always done, rocks
may be introduced among them with less injury,
and probably to the improvement of the general
effect. But so many rockeries bear the same rela-
tion to the plants, ferns, &c., with which they
are facetiously said to be clothed, as the enormously
heavy and monstrously gildedframes, once so common,
In Fig. 2 the upstanding rock is placed almost vertically, and the plant
Fig. 3 shows the rock tilted over away from the plant.
than spreading. A yard deep should be looked
upon as the minimum needed to grow these
to anything like perfection; the deeper, in fact,
the better. Even the quality of the soil is of ©
less moment than its depth, for its function in
not a few cases is more of a water-holder than a
plant-feeder. This holds out good prospects of —
success to those who would try water-culture for
Alpines. Hence, too, almost any soil that can be
kept moist without becoming sour may be used for
them. Ina state of nature, the earth they grow in
is very much mixed. The débris of rocks and decom-
posed grasses, mosses, leaves, stems, with particles of
soil or silica, these form the natural compost for
Alpines; and the nearer this mixture can be imitated
by artificial means the better. The nearest practical
approach to this natural mixture is sandy loam, with
a third of leaf-mould and a liberal addition of
smashed sandstone or other stone. A few prefer
peat, but these.are comparatively few. Where leat-
mould is not obtainable, peat may be substituted for
it. Some cultivators even recommend a slight addi-
tion of thoroughly decomposed manure, but this is
rh
Zi x
a
ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING. 3)
wholly unnecessary, and generally injurious. ‘The
mere fact of its being utterly unnatural is strong
presumptive evidence against its use, while ex-
perience shows that it does far more harm than
good.
The rage for rough turfy loam, though right
in the main,is not seldom carried to extremes
in the ‘cultivation of particular plants. For ex-
ample, in the cultivation of Alpines the necessity
for thorough drainage is so apparent that this
object is sought to be obtained through excessive
looseness and roughness of the soil; but any
one who has dug up an Alpine plant in its natural
habitat must have been struck with two features of
its root-run, its hardness and its fineness. ‘The soil
is mostly the slow and gradual accretion of ages,
formed a few grains or particles at a time; and
time, the great consolidator, compacts it into hard
\ K st .
AW
LE
a ili)
MTS 72 2
WL) ETN
are essential to their life, vigour, and luxuriance, and
hence the importance of so placing the rocks as in
no way to interfere with those natural refreshers and
invigorators. Figs. 1, 2, and 3 give illustrations of
the different modes of placing rocks so as to avoid
the evils of overlapping, and get all the advantages
of a free sweep and full exposure to atmospheric in-
fluences. ;
The proper disposal of rocks under the roots of
plants is of equal or more importance than their sky-
line. Asarule, all the pockets or artificial fissures
should cleave boldly downwards rather than spread
out horizontally, and they should never on any
account run upwards, unless they have an opening
at the top into the external air (see Fig. 4, n, c).
But the best form of fissure is that shown at 2, in
Fig. 4, while the worst is illustrated by a, in the
same figure, which may be described as a trap
ais
\\\ 1) ji
WH Ai
WAG
Fig. 4.- CREVICES FoR Rock PLANTS.
masses. The porosity of the soilis maintained by
the addition of rocky débris or other matters—semi-
imperishable matter—to it. Thesame rule should
be observed in the artificial formation of root-runs
for rock plants. Fresh turfy loam should be laid
up for a year or more before use, as fresh vegetable
fibre can hardly be at once utilised by the roots.
It would also be benefited by one or more turn-
ings and by the addition of fifteen per cent. or so
of pure silica, or clean sharp silver sand, if not
sufficiently sandy; five or so of leaf-mould, sweet
and well rotted, and from fifteen to twenty per cent.
of smashed stone. The latter is to be preferred to
crocks, potsherds, shells, or charcoal. The soil in
all cases should be on a layer or base of drainage
from two to six or more inches in depth. In cases
where plants are grown in pockets in rocks, it is
essential to success that these should either be bot-
tomless, or have one or more free outlets from their
lower sides or bottoms, for it cannot be too often re-
peated that stagnant water means disease or death to
all such piants. They cannot well have too much
water during the growing and flowering periods, if it
is kept in constant motion. This suggests a point of
great importance. In planting choice plants among
rocks, the latter must on no account be so tilted over
as to overhang the plants. The sun and the rain
to kill plants, as no moisture can reach the roots
in such a crevice. Of course, between a and 4
there may be a great variety of gradation, and
so long as the line of the fissure is sufficiently
downwards to convey moisture freely from top
to bottom, it may diverge widely from the vertical
line without injury to the plants. For example,
a crevice or fissure like c might answer almost
as well as £, for the successful culture of rock plants.
Drainage and Water.—Assuming that the
major portion of the rockery—all its base, in fact
—is formed of soil, and that the top of the earth-
mound provides a dual surface, one of drainage from
four to six inches in depth, and the other of good
soil, such as that already described, a yard or so in
thickness: it is necessary for the outlet for the
drainage, where the base of the rockery is greatly
varied, to be at the lowest point.
In Fie. 5, for example, the lower portions at
a, b, e would be converted into swamps, unless
outlets for the water were provided at the lowest
points of these rolling valleys or ravines. Unless
this were done, semi-aquatic plants would have
to be planted in such positions; but the combina-
tion of a bog-fernery, and Alpinery in one is sel-
dom very effective. The one very properly succeeds
al
6 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
the other in tolerably close proximity, as thus the
effects of all will be heightened alike literally and
figuratively, for from the water-line to the top of
the tallest rock is of necessity the greatest possible
difference of altitude within reach. The smooth
water also contrasts sharply with the rough and
rugged rocks, and the contrast would be heightened
were the rocks to plunge rather abruptly from the
highest point to the surface of the miniature pond or
lake, however small. The effect would be still more
striking were the rocks crowned with such stiff and
formal plants as Echeverias, Yuccas, Draceenas,
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within the limits of a few yards. All that is needful
is to place the sun-loving subjects on the southern
and the shade-loving ones on the northern sides of
the up-towering rocks, such as those shown in the
illustrations.
In planting into the soil itself, as here recommended,
great care must be taken in the placing of the rocks
afterwards, to afford the free access of rain to the
roots. With sufficient drainage beneath, there is no
fear of any excess of rain from above; but if stones
are so placed as to throw it off the roots, the Alpine
plants must needs droop and suffer in consequence.
‘i Ses
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b
Fig. 5.—BAsis oF ROCK-WORK.
1, Original earth base; 2, drainage; 3, strata of good soil; 4, rocks.
Palms, tall Ferns, or Aloes, and the latter furnished
with Water Lilies, Irises, or Musk Marigolds. But
mere swamp—that is, neither good rock, bog, nor
clean water—at such points as a, 4, and e would be
alike objectionable on grounds of taste and culture.
Shade and Shelter.—The system of forming the
bases of rockeries of earth-mounds of considerable
boldness, also affords the utmost possible diversity of
site and aspect within a limited area. This is of great
importance in the cultivation of Alpines as well as of
ferns. It is too generally assumed that the former
thrive best in full sunshine, and the latter in the
shade ; but the fact is that not a few of both families
of plants thrive best in the sun and others in the
shade. With a rolling-bank running north and
south, sun and shade may be provided at pleasure,
and thus each family of plants be provided with, as
far as possible, its natural conditions. Even where
“mere. pieces of rock are set up, as in Figs. 1, 2,
and 3, shade and shine may each be commanded
Keeping the Crowns well above the Soil.
—Though most of these plants enjoy an abundance
of moisture, few of them can endure water resting
on their crowns. The crowns are not only the chief
centres of beauty in rock plants, but also their
source of weakness. They are keenly susceptible
of cold, and easily injured by any excess of water.
Considering from whence they come, it may seem
absurd to affirm that any of these plants should
succumb to the cold of our climate; but they do.
They miss their snow coverlet, which seldom sinks
much below 32°, and their slightly warmer bath of
snow-water a few degrees above it ; and hence, when
exposed to five, ten, or fifteen degrees of frost, not a
few of them perish from cold. They suffer all the
more if the frost comes down upon them in a very
wet state; hence one powerful reason why the
crowns should be slightly elevated above the sur-
rounding surface.
One great objection to common pocket-planting is
that, as a rule, the sides of the pocket must of
ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING. ts
necessity be elevated somewhat above the soil they
contain. When formed of cement or other com-
position, these sides are generally waterproof ; hence
the water at times floods the crowns of the plants.
This is sufficiently injurious in favourable weather,
but absolutely fatal to health or life during pro-
longed spells of frost. But with their crowns
elevated: slightly above the surrounding level, and
the soil in which they are growing thoroughly
drained at all points, most of them bear the severities
of our climate with impunity. Those that do
succumb to it are killed by the sudden changes from
cold to heat and drought to saturation, more fre-
quently than from any absolute want of heat.
We have nothing, however, equivalent to the
snow covering to which Alpines have been accustomed
in their native habitat. Perhaps the simplest and
best substitute for this is a thickish sprinkling of
roughish cocoa-fibre refuse over their crowns during
frosts of unusual severity. This is at once ight and
porous, and hence most efficient as a heat-preserver,
while doing but little injury to the plants. Instead
of harbouring slugs, its semi-harshness and rough-
ness is a partial antidote to them, while its decom-
position adds a useful ingredient to the feeding
properties of the soil.
Slugs and Woodlice. — One might almost
suppose that rock plants were unnatural food for
these. It seems impossible for many slug pests
to live in the hard and sterile soils and regions
where such most do congregate and thrive;
but if so, the British slugs betray a wonderful
fondness for such exotic fare. They pounce upon
and devour choice plants with such avidity as if to
the manner born; and a water-cordon, which is
often practicable, is the best of all barriers to ex-
ternal attacks. But slugs seem to spring up out
of the very earth with extraordinary rapidity.
To prevent this, and in cases where Alpines are
grown on a small scale, the soil used might be
charred or burnt before use. This would get rid of
the slug pest from within, from whence it is most
‘troublesome; and thus, with a water-cordon—the
wider the better, though a few inches will suffice
(the writer has seen a common roof-trough on its
back prove effective)—the rockery can be made pest-
proof. On larger scales, the lake around the base of
the rock-garden may be made the most interesting
part of it; but watchfulness will still be needful.
Though these pests can neither crawl nor fly over
the water, they enter the rockery nevertheless, and
a slug-hunt at early morn and dewy eve will mostly
result in a few finds, and is the surest means of pre-
Serving choice plants from being unseasonably de-
voured root and branch.
Simpler Means of forming Small Rock-
eries.—In many gardens and demesnes natural
banks by the sides of streams, mounds, and dells are
to be found. Nothing can be easier than to convert
such into rockeries by the insertion of stones, brick
refuse, boulders, and other rock-ike materials.
These should be erratically grouped rather than
regularly placed or planted all over the surface. It
is the latter that imparts that monotony to rockeries
which has done so much to bring them into contempt.
Not only must every yard, or even foot, of ground
have its plant, but its rock likewise. This is a huge
mistake. Let there be soil without rocks, and rocks
with little or no soil. Unless in her regular strata,
we never find nature scattering her detached rocks
about with any regularity; neither should we in
our artificial rock-making. The less regular, the
more artistic and effective.
Another simple way is to throw up the earth, and
build in and up the rock-work simultaneously. This
is perhaps the best way where such rock-materials as
brickbats, clinkers, &c., are used. Heaps or masses
of these worked in with the soil—taking care to leave
sufficient spaces for soil, and to coat all over-head
with a layer of cement, coloured and finished to
taste by additions of stones or smashed spar—pro-
duce strikingly beautiful masses of rock-work at a
cheap rate.
Again, it is very easy to throw up mounds of earth
at different angles and of various forms against walls,
and to face such with rock-work, varying the breadth
and height of these at pleasure. Perhaps in no
position can rock-work prove more useful than in
hiding straight walls, and substituting for them flow-
ing or irregular lines of verdure and beauty. Rocks
may often be thus disposed against walls so as to
convert the bonndary-lines of gardens into features
of the most absorbing interest and scenes of the
most surpassing loveliness. ‘The whole character of a
house or garden may be changed and maryellously
improved by the use of a few loads of stones, and
fifty or a hundred choice plants and ferns.
Rocks and Water.— The margins of water,
woods, and shrubberies form admirable sites for rock-
eries, clothed with either Alpines or ferns, or, better
still, a mixture of both, and other herbaceous and
foliage plants. Naturally as rocks seem to associate
with water, yet one seldom sees the two combined
to good taste or purpose by art. The most common
mistakes arise from the attempts constantly made to
force the water over rocks when the two are placed
together. Few things are more pleasing and im-
posing than natural waterfalls. The music of
falling water 1s also among the softest as well as the
stormiest notes in nature ; and the sight of its gentle
8 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
trickling over rocks, or of its wild, leaping, headlong
plunge that converts the stream and river into a
mere cloud of spray, are among the most pleasing
and thrilling that can be imagined. But just
because these sights and sounds of falling water are
so satisfying, the mere squirts, or ledges, or stairs of
waterfalls that one meets with even at Chatsworth
and the Crystal Palace, and in so many other places,
are grievously disappointing. Unless, in fact,
nature can assist art with a waterfall, this imposing
feature had better be dispensed with, or confined
to a mere dripping fountain or trickling of water
among the rocks.
But rocks are quite as effective in water at rest as
under or beside it in motion. And where rockeries
are placed against a lake or stream, they should rise
boldly out of the water at certain points, and the
coast-line, however limited, should be distinguished
by the utmost possible variety—now boldly advancing
into the water, and anon retreating into a cosy recess
landwards.
Instead of this artistic disposition of rock and
water, one often meets with lakes, long and straight
as a canal, with smooth grass banks on either side,
and, beyond the banks, rockeries or ferneries formed
on the grassy base. ‘Such arrangements tempt one
to wish that an earthquake might swallow up the
long straight lines of turf, and allow the water and
the rock-work to become mixed up together in the
irregular mode of procedure common to those great
upheavers and disturbers of nature. What would
thus be lost in symmetry would be gained in artistic
fitness and variety.
Foreign Robbers.—By planting rockeries
in secluded nooks and corners in front of shrub-
beries and woods, much might be done to break
up the monotony of boundary-lines, by no means,
as a rule, overflowing with beauty, and to add
new interest and beauty to the scene. One
ereat practical difficulty presents itself here at
starting, and that is, the entrance of the roots of the
trees and shrubs into the rockery, and the conse-
quent exhaustion of the soil and starving of the
plants. So imminent and so great is the danger,
that some strong measures must be taken to pre-
vent or mitigate it. The roots of an Ash or an
Elm will travel a hundred yards, and form a per-
fect mat of roots at that distance, in any good soil
it penetrates. How the roots scent out the new
larder remains a mystery; but that they do, and
make great speed to empty it, is patent to any one
who has either disturbed old ground or placed new
anywhere near to established trees or shrubs. Not
that all roots travel so fast or so far as those of the
Elm or the Ash. But the roots of all plants make
vigorous and mostly successful efforts to reach and
exhaust any new soil laid over or placed near them.
There are two means of preventing foreign roots
from using up and exhausting the soil of the
rockery. The first is to make the original surface
root-proof before building the rockery upon it; and
the second, by planting in pockets in the rocks, the
base of such not to open into the soil. In the former
case the roots could not rise into the new material,
and in the latter, though they would rise and hug
closely the base of the rocks, they would be unable
to get into the pockets that supported the rock
plants. Though bottomless pockets are best for
general purposes, those with impenetrable bases may
be used when needful to baulk the roots of trees, but
they must be pervious to the outlet of water or the
plants will die.
A layer of common or gas-tar concrete over tree-
roots will prevent their coming through, and like-
wise form a barrier against worms and slugs.
Neither is it found that such root-coverings, unless
carried too close to the plants, greatly injure estab-
lished trees or shrubs. But where this is feared, and
large stones are abundant, either these or artificial
stones may be used, that have no further connection
with the ground than merely resting upon it. Into
the pockets of these all the more choice and delicate
plants should be placed, while the spaces between the
rocks could either be left vacant or furnished with
stronger-growing ferns or other plants, that could
hold their own in the struggle for existence with the
roots of trees and shrubs,
Rockery against Dwelling-houses.—It is
often convenient to place it here, alike for ready
access and for purposes of shade, shelter, or verdure,
or the shutting out of unsightly buildings or other
objects. The one thing wanting in not a few gardens
is shade. The smaller villas and suburban gardens are
the hotter,as a rule. Their glitter and glare at times
are wellnigh intolerable. A raised bank six or more
feet high, covered with rocks and foliage or flowering
plants, might be so placed as to afford shade at any
time desired. If a rustic alcove arch could be
worked into the rockery, so much the better. Such
a cool and welcome retreat could be commanded at
all seasons, that would often combine more taste,
and prove more conducive to health and comfort,
than the whole garden besides.
Rock-work also affords a short and easy cut to the
solution of the most difficult problem that is ever
pressing urgently for solution, viz., the best mode of
shutting out unsightly objects, or of insuring as
much privacy and seclusion as possible. In thou-
sands of spots, where neither shrubs nor trees can be
grown to any effective purpose, rockezies might be run
THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE. 9
up, and clothed with verdureand beauty at once. This
jast is a wonderful point in their favour. No hedge
nor screen-plants, nor trees and shrubs, ever grow so
slowly as those wanted at once to screen out the
east winds, or the prying eyes of inquisitive neigh-
bours. But a rockery may be built in a day, and
furnished on the morrow, that shall for ever shut
out all such annoyances, and itself be converted
into a thing of beauty and a joy for ever into the
bargain.
It is not only an effective but a substantial barrier.
A screen of leaves may be pushed aside, or fall at
the touch of winter, but the rockery abides, even
should its verdure and beauty fade ; its substance as
a screen and blind and shelter remains. The ladies
of the house, even invalids, can see or visit these
home rockeries in all weathers ; and if well furnished
and skilfully managed, their clothing plants are ever
unfolding some new feature of interest and beauty ;
they never pall by their sameness nor weary through
their monotony.
Rockeries may often form convenient connecting
links of interest and beauty between the garden and
stables, or other parts of the demesne. In conserva-
tories attached to the dwelling-house or dining-
room windows, they form the most effective furnishing
for the end or other wall in view of the window. In
larger houses, one end of the conservatory is often
connected with a rockery, clothed with ferns and
other plants, through which a passage may be led
into the external air, as is done with admirable taste
at Wolverstone Park, Suffolk. The outside fernery
there is on a cliff of the Orwell, a natural site
commanding almost every merit needful, and these
have been utilised to the utmost by the highest art .
_ and most cultured taste, the result being such as
is seldom or never met with elsewhere.
Beware of climbers on rockeries, especially those
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SInGLE DAHLIAS (STELLATE CHARACTER).
up in a green-house, putting on a little fire to dry
_ wUpany moisture that may be in the pod; in due
time the seeds must be rubbed out, put into bags and
s cleaned at leisure ready for sowing in spring. In
4 March the seeds should be sown in pots, and put
into a cucumber frame, where they will freely
germinate ; then potted off, and grown on to put out
Of doors early in June to flower.
The Dahlia is a gross feeder, and if fine flowers
are required the soil in which the plants are to grow
must be made very rich. The soil should be deeply
trenched and thrown up rough during the winter, or
as soon as it can conveniently be done. It is not
necessary to dig in manurethen. At planting-time,
which should not be earlier than June, the ground
should be marked out for each plant, and they
35 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENIN G.
should be at least four to six feet apart; three or
four spadefuls of soil should be taken out, and the
same quantity of rotten manure added, mixing it
thoroughly with the soil. Then planting should be
done, placing some fine soil about the roots, and
pressing the whole firmly about them. At the time of
planting a centre stake should be placed against each
plant, and three short stakes at a triangle, about a
foot from it, as by tying the matting to the centre
stake, thence to the plant, and fastening to the
shorter stakes, it is made quite secure against harm
from winds. It is a great advantage to grow on the
plants in pots before planting out, giving them two
or three shifts if necessary, and so encouraging
them to root strongly.
During the month of July they should make
considerable progress, and if the cultivator desires
fine blooms, the principal things to attend to are to
keep the plants well watered, which should be
done at night with soft water, over the foliage, and
looking well after insects. Earwigs eat the young
foliage as well as the blooms of Dahlias, and the old
plan of placing a small flower-pot with a little moss
in it inverted on the principal stake is a good one,
as earwigs find a place of refuge in it, and can be
easily trapped. ‘The surface of the soil between the
plants should also be raked over occasionally and
made loose. In August, those who want some
blooms of fine quality, thin out superfluous shoots,
doing it with judgment so that much foliage be not
cut off ata time. There is a great difference in the
varieties; some require to have all their wood and
buds reserved for some time; others require to have
a great deal of the wood cut away early. These are
matters of experience which cultivators of Dahlias
for exhibition purposes have to find out in the course
of their practice. Even in growing Dahlias for
ordinary border purposes some thinning out is
requisite, or the flowers will be small and unsatis-
factory. As the plants make growth it is necessary
to keep the branches securely tied to the stakes; and
during hot dry weather the plants will be greatly
benefited by having the soil about them slightly
loosened, and a mulching of short well-rotted manure
placed over it. A good soaking of water at the
roots should be given twice a week, and a little over
the foliage every night.
“Thinning out” and “disbudding” are terms
employed by cultivators of the Dahlia for show
purposes ; let us try and ascertain what they mean.
How many main branches mayremain? The larger
the flowers, the greater the number of branches
allowed to a plant. In the case of varieties pro-
ducing large and moderately-sized flowers, six
should be left ; in the case of those producing smaller
flowers, four only. Which of the shoots are to be
pinched off ? The centre of the plants should be kept
free and unencumbered; and therefore lateral growths
may be pinched off the shoots nearest to the maix.
stem; but seeing that leaves exercise an important
function in maintaining the health and vigour of the
plants, the leaf at the axil from which the shoot pro-
ceeds should be allowed to remain. Te pinching
off of young shoots is to be preferred to the removal
at a later period of large stems, by which the plant
cannot fail to lose large quantities of sap, to the
manifest detriment of the coming flowers. And in
pinching out shoots those should be reserved that
help the formation of a well-proportioned plant.
These principles are general in their application,
which varies according to the characteristics of the
variety.
Then as to the “disbudding”’ of the clusters of
blossom-buds on various parts of the plant: which
are to remain, and which to be removed? Buds are
generally formed in groups of three; of these, the
one occupying the centre is earliest, and generally
produces the largest bloom. Ordinarily, the two side
buds may be removed; the exception to this rule,
with regard to very uncertain varieties, is in the
case of a sort that produces flowers in plenty, but
few good ones. In these cases a little patience is
necessary to enable the cultivator to ascertain which
buds must, from their formation, produce faulty
flowers, and these should be removed as soon as their
true character is ascertained, but not until then. In
sorts producing large flowers the removal of the two
side buds can be done, except in the case of very free
bloomers; but in the case of varieties habitually
yielding small and compact blooms, especially where
buds are produced in enormous quantities, whole
clusters may be cleared away without remorse, and
only those single buds left which point outwards.
Writers on the cultivation of the Dahlia for ex-
hibition purposes are found recommending the free
use of stimulants, and especially liquid manure.
But they should not be applied until the plant has
nearly completed its growth, say three weeks or a
month before flowers are wanted. The object in
applying this is to get large, full blooms. Manure-
water may then be applied twice a week, taking care
not to wet the foliage, and it is best applied in wet
weather. Though recommended by some, it is not
a good practice to put soot into water before using
it for watering overhead; only pure, clear water
should be so used.
The time for lifting the roots in the autumn must
depend upon the weather; if the tops are quite
destroyed by frost, the roots should be lifted on the
first dry day; but should the season be favourable
and there be no frost, two objects will be gained by
allowing them to remain in the ground for a time,
FLORISTS’
viz., more seeds, and a shorter winter to preserve
the roots in. One danger in storing Dahlia roots
has to be guarded against. It is the practice to cut
away the main stem to within six inches or a little
more of the root. ‘This stem will be found to be
hollow, and it is apt to become filled with moisture,
which, if allowed to remain, is likely to cause rot to
set in. When wet appears the roots should be turned
upside down to allow the moisture to run out. ‘The
roots must be covered up securely during frosty
weather.
In the cases of the bouquet and the single Dahlhias,
these being grown mainly for the flowers they
supply, the act of cutting constantly, operates in
much the same way as thinning and disbudding
does with the show varieties. But the plants should
be well cared for, mulching with manure about the
roots, and keeping them well watered, and tied
securely to stakes to prevent them from being blown
about by the wind.
The Cactus Dahhas so called, of which the Mexican
D. Juarezii is the original type, are becoming very
popular, and appear likely to take the place of the
single’ varieties for cutting and general decorative
purposes. It must not be supposed all are seedlings of
D. Juarez : indeed, it would appear that anything
of a semi-double character has been regarded as a
Cactus Dahlia; but of late there is being introduced
a number of varieties of attractive appearance, that
are remarkably free of bloom, and afford great quan-
tities of flowers. They need similar culture to the
single varieties. The best sorts are Empress of India,
crimson; Constance, white; Flambeau, scarlet; Lady
E. Dyke, yellow; Lady Marsham, bright salmon ;
and Mrs. Hawkins, sulphur-yellow. There is no
necessity for disbudding the Cactus Dahlias; cutting
the blooms answers the same purpose.
At present, perhaps, the greatest danger in the
cultivation of single Dahlias is that of getting them
too large, which seems to destroy the refinement of
the flower. The efforts of florists are therefore de-
voted to the perpetuation of a race of small or
moderate-sized compact flowers. These again differ
in their character in various ways. Some have
petals highly reflexed or curled back, while others
are flat; in some the petals fill up a disc, while in
others they are narrower, and give a more stellate
character to the blooms. There are also self-
coloured, “‘fancy,”’ and striped flowers. Some of
the choicer and smaller flowers are much sought for
cutting purposes. Our illustrations represent two of
Mr. Ware’s fine varieties, the striped variety being
a small flower, with petals white, beautifully edged
with scarlet.
Not a few lovers of the Dahlia prefer the pretty
bouquet or pompon varieties, with their compact,
FLOWERS. cg
symmetrical double flowers, to the single types,
because they are more durable in a cut state, and
produced with greater freedom. ‘The single flowers
are much used in the way of decorating epergnes,
vases, &c., for table and house work; but they should
always be used sparingly, and especially such as are
of bright and striking colours.
The bouquet and single varieties are in some in-
stances tall growers, but their height can be reduced
by giving the stems a slight twist when the plants
are eighteen inches or so in height, which will cause
them to recline on the ground ; a peg should then
be placed to each plant to keep them in position,
and they will soon take on an upright growth,
bloom as freely, and be as effective as if they had
not been dwarfed in their proper stature.
The bedding varieties, being of dwarf growth,
very profuse of bloom, and having the habit of
throwing their flowers on erect stems, are very useful
for filling beds, and for placing singly in borders,
It is necessary to. keep the decayed flowers removed
to encourage the production of fresh ones, and to
make the plants look as attractive as possible. The
height of any tall-growing varieties of either section
can be shortened by gently bending down the stem
when the plant is young, and pegging it securely to
the ground, as recommended in the case of the single
varieties. This tends to bring the lower branches
to the earth, covering it, and forming a dense growth.
In planting a large bed the tallest should be put in
the centre and the dwarfest at the outer edge, pegging
down the plants where necessary.
SELECTIONS OF DAHLIAS.
Show Varieties.
. Joseph Ashby (Turner).
Joseph Green (Keynes).
Lady Gladys Herbert
(Keynes).
Miss Cannell (Eckford).
Mr. G. Harris (Rawlings).
Bendigo (Turner).
Burzundy (Turner).
Buttercup (Fellowes).
Clara (Rawlings).
Colonist (Keynes).
Constancy (Keynes).
Flag of Truce (Wheeler). Mrs. Foster (Turner).
Georgiana (Keynes). Mrs. Gladstone (Hurst).
George Kawlings (Raw- Mrs, Glasscock (Rawlings).
lings). Mrs. Harris (Harris).
Goldfinder (Fellowes). Mrs. Langtry (Keynes).
Harry Keith (Keynes). Mrs. Shirley Hibberd (Raw-
lings).
Prince Bismarck (Fellowes).
Prince of Denmark (Fel-
lowes).
R. T. Rawlings (Rawlings).
Sunbeam (Fellowes).
William Rawlings (Raw-
lings).
Henry Walton (Keynes).
Herbert Turner (Turner).
J. B. Service (Keynes).
James Cocker (Keynes).
James Stephen (Keynes).
John Neville Keynes
(Keynes).
Jonn Standish (Turner).
Fancy Varieties.
James O’Brien (Keynes).
John Forbes (Keynes).
Laura Haslam (ellowes),
Mrs. H. Halls (Rawlings).
Mrs. Saunders (Turner).
Peacock (Turner).
Annie Pritchard (Keynes).
Charles Wyatt (Keynes).
Fanny Sturt (Pope).
Gaiety (Keynes).
George Barnes (Keynes).
Grand Sultan (Keynes).
Henry Eckford (Rawlings). Professor Faweett( Keynes).
Henry Glasscock (Keynes). Rev.J.B.M.Camm (Keynes).
Hugh Austin (Keynes). ; W. G. Head (Turner).
-
40 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
Bedding Dahlias.
Carl Mendel, brightcrimson. : Marguerite Bruant, white.
Cloth of gold, yellow. i Rising Sun, scarlet.
Crimson Gem, crimson. Royal Purple, purple.
George Thowpson, pale yel- Yellow Pet, pure )ellow.
low. | Zelinda, crimson-purple.
John Wyatt,crimson-scarlet }
Bouquet or Pompen Dahlias.
Comtesse von Sternberg,
yellow and white.
Lady Blanche, pure white.
Little Duchess, white, edged
Coquette, orange, erimson.
Dora, primrose and white. Louis Rodani, deep shaded
EK. F. Jungker, amber. lilae.
Favourite, dark maroon. Mabel, bright blac.
Fireball, orange-red. Nymph, yellow, tipped with
Gazelle, yellow, edged ma- red.
genta. Prince of Lilliputians, very
Gem, rich scarlet. dark maroon,
German Favourite, crimson- Princess Sophie Sopieha,
lake. shaded lake.
Grass an Wien, shaded buff. Titania, yellow, tipped with
Hedwig Polwig, orange- bronze.
scarlet. Wilhelm Nitsche, red, tip-
Isabel, bright orange-scarlet. | ped with white.
Single Dahlias. ;
(The following are we'l-known and serviceable varieties,
but many new ones are being raised every year.)
Alba, pure white. Mrs. Bowman,
Amos Perry, shining ma- magenta.
roon, Mr. Kennett, striped.
Coccinea, bright scarlet. Norah, bright pink.
Dorothy, white and peach. Paragon, rich maroon and
Firefly, pale crimson. purple.
Harlequin, rose and purple. Rosamond, bright rosy pink.
Mauve Queen, pale lilac. Sunset, bright crimson.
Miss Mary Anderson, crim- Yellow Dwarf, yellow.
son scarlet, | Yellow Queen, deep yellow.
\
purplish
The rich semi-double Cxctus Dahlia, D. Juarezii, should
‘nlso be ineluded in this collection.
THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS.
By Dr. MaxweEtt T. Masters, F.R.S.
NUTRITION,
1 N JE have now passed in review the principal re-
serve organs in which food is stored for the
use of the plant when growth begins. In a general
way we have indicated the nature of the change from
the insoluble reserve-material, useless as such, to the
soluble food capable of being utilised in the growth
of the plant. We are, therefore, now in a position
to follow up the life-history of the plant, to see in
what growth consists, what circumstances promote
it, what the plant feeds on, how it obtains its food,
and what it does with it. Growth consists essen-
tially in the formation of new “tissue” or sub-
stance, and this is effected at the growing points
before mentioned. This new tissue or substance is
composed of aggregates of minute bladders called
“cells” (Fig. 31), generally more or less globular, but
subject to great variations in form. The study of
cells demands the exercise of the keenest powers of
the trained botanist and chemist. In this place it is
proposed only to deal with a few leading facts and
phenomena concerning them of special importance
to the cultivator, leaving those who desire to pursue
the subject further to consult some of the more re-
cently published text-books.
_Cells, their Structure and Office.—For our
present purpose it suffices to say that the cell exists
in various forms and phases, but that in its perfect
condition it consists of an outer bag of membrane
called the ‘cell-wall,” and of certain contents,
of which the most important is the substance known
as “protoplasm.” The other contents—the cell-sap,
the vacuoles, the nucleus, &c.—cannot be advan-
tageously treated of in this place. The cell-wall is,
as has been said, a bag of membrane, for the most
part closed, so that one cell is isolated from its
A\ AE SA
i
Fig. 31.—_Aggregation of Cells constituting Cellular Tissue,
shown cut across.
neighbour, but not so much so as to prevent all pas-
sage of some of the contents of one cell into the
cavity of another. That passage may be effected
either by endosmosis, which is the most ordinary
method, or by the direct passage of the protoplasm
of one cell into another.
Endosmosis is the term applied to that process
by means of which a thin fluid, say water, passes
through an intervening membrane, even though
there be no visible pores in it, to mix with a thicker
fluid, say syrup. This process may easily be exem-
plified by stretching a piece of bladder over the broad
end of a funnel (a, Fig. 32), inverting it and pouring
into it through the narrow tube (B) some sugar and
water. This done, the funnel may be placed, with
the broad end downwards, in a vessel of water as in
the figure, the tube of the funnel being secured by
means of a ring and screw to a stand. After a
short time, varying according to temperature and
the strength of the syrup, it will be found that the
water from the vessel will pass through the bladder,
causing it to be distended, and the fluid in the
funnel, becoming more abundant and more and
more diluted, rises in the tube. It is, therefore, by
ys
protoplasm is by far the
THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS. 41
osmosis or endosmosis that the water outside a celi
passes through the membrane into its cavity. And so
if the thin watery contents pass out by exudation or
by pressure from one cell, they may pass by osmosis
into another adjacent cell with thicker contents.
This passage of fluid from cell to cell is manifested
principally by the ‘cell-sap,’ which is of a thin
watery character.
The “protoplasm ”’ differs from the membranous
cell-wall, and from the
cell-sap, in being a thick
viscid fluid containing a
proportion of nitrogen, and
sometimes a little sulphur
and phosphorus, in addition
to the carbon, oxygen, and
hydrogen, of which cell-
membrane is composed. The
most important part of the
plant. Though seemingly
a mere translucent, jelly-
like substance, it is the seat
of all the life-work done in
and by the plant. With it
and by it the plant lives ;
without it, itis dead. The
essential part of animal
structure is practically iden-
tical with vegetable proto-
plasm, so that in this
wonderful combination all
the phenomena of life,
vegetable or animal, are
manifested. Until recently,
it was supposed that (with a
few exceptions) the proto-
have seen, essentially consists in the increased for-
mation from the old material of protoplasm and
cell-membrane, and to insure this new formation
certain conditions must be complied with, and com-
plied with, too, at the proper time. These conditions
are, a favourable amount of temperature and light,
and an adequate provision of suitable food, especially
of water.
As to the amount of heat required, that varies
within wide limits. Arctic
snows do not absolutely
banish vegetation ; tropical
heat does not destroy it
(provided water be sup-
plied). On the other hand,
excessive cold or excessive
heat will either of them
destroy the protoplasm.
Each plant thrives best at a
certain temperature, and is
destroyed by too high or too
low a temperature, the exact
degree being determined
only by practical experience
in each case. Even the
separate functions of the
plant are regulated in the
same way, as has been
mentioned at an_ earlier
page (vol. i., p. 23). The
general principle is easy to
understand, but when the
gardener wishes to reduce
the principle to practice in
individual cases, nothing
but experience and obser-
vation can guide him satis-
plasm of one cell, in the
factorily, because “ circum-
adult condition, was abso-
lutely cut off from that in
the adjoining cell by
means of the walls of the two cells; but it has
now been shown that there is frequently a pas-
Sage of minute threads of protoplasm from one cell
to another through apertures in the cell-walls of
extreme minuteness. The passage is revealed by
treating the protoplasm with some chemical re-agent
which stains it, and thus renders the threads visible
under the highest powers of the microscope. In
this manner, the “‘continuity of the protoplasm” has
been demonstrated in so many instances as to lead to
the inference that it is a general phenomenon ; and,
if this prove to be so, many other points of physio-
logy, at present obscure, will be rendered intelligible.
Conditions of Growth.—Growth, then, we
Fig. 32.—Endosmometer,
stances alter cases’? so very
materially.\ Fortunately, in
most cases the range is so
wide that comparatively little difficulty is expe-
rienced ; but in other cases great nicety is demanded,
and in plants which have but little power of adapting
themselves to circumstances, in forcing-operations, in
the proper ripening and colouring of fruits, and the
like, practical instruction and personal observation
are matters of primary importance to the cultivator.
We may, however, point out that while a knew-
ledge of the climatic conditions may be, and often
is, of the highest importance to the cultivator of a
plant derived from a particular locality, yet it
does not necessarily follow that the gardener will
‘obtain the best results by imitating, or even at-
tempting to imitate, in this country, those parti-
cular natural conditions. In fact, plants are very
42 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
accommodating—some much more so than others—
and hence they are enabled to thrive under circum-
stances very different from those which are natural
to them. Again, while it is easy to imitate some of the
natural conditions, say temperature, it is often quite
out of our power to reproduce the attendant phe-
nomena of brilliant light or abundant atmospheric
moisture. The home cultivator, while thankful for
any climatic indications with which the meteorolo-
gist and traveller can supply him, must study rather
to insure the particular combination and adjust-
ment of circumstances which will enable him to
grow the plant here. It is rarely possible to secure
the same combination of propitious circumstances
as exist in the native country of the plant. For
these reasons we refer to the practical articles in
this volume, for indications as to the effect of tem-
perature on growth more directly useful than can be
obtained from a discussion of the-matter.from the
point of view of the physiologist or meteorologist.
It may suffice to repeat in general terms what has
been said under the head of germination, that heat
and moisture are the two principal factors in pro-
moting growth. Light is less directly beneficial,
its most potent influence being exerted in other di-
rections, more especially in the nutritive processes.
It is obvious that, if growth is to be continued, some-
thing more than heat and moisture will be required,
because the reserve stores of food will sooner or later
be used up, and heat and moisture alone will not
suffice to build up new protoplasm or to accumulate
fresh stores of food. The moisture supplies only
two ingredients of the protoplasm (hydrogen and
oxygen); the heat itself supplies none, but simply
acts asa stimulant. It becomes necessary, there-
fore, to consider the food of plants, its nature and
sources, and this will involve the consideration of
the work done in the cells in general, and in those
of the root and leaf especially.
The Work of the Cell.—The general structure
of the cell has been already alluded to. The work
it does may be briefly summarised. As all plants
and all parts of plants are aggregates of cells, it
follows that the work done by the plant as a whole
is merely the sum of that done by individual cells.
The cell absorbs and exhales moisture and gases,
but it is incapable of absorbing solid matters, at
least no such material can pass the cell-wall. It
changes and modifies the substances it absorbs ;
under the agency of heat and light it effects
changes at once more subtle and more vast than
the chemist has yet been able to bring about in his
laboratory; it contracts and expands; the old cell
divides and develops new ones. All this is effected
by the agency of the protoplasm. The cell-wall does
indeed act the part of a membrane in the purely
physical process of osmosis, and it may serve as a
shield and a protection ; but all the more important
work of the cell is done in and by the protoplasm.
Some of the cells remain unchanged, or at least
comparatively so, while others in course of growth
develop into fibres, vessels, and other elements of
plant structure which are told off, as it were, for
various offices, and correspondingly equipped.
It is not consistent with our plan to go into detail
as to the form of cells; but as we shall have frequent
occasion to mention them hereafter, we must allude
to one or two modifications.
In the first place, we must again remind the reader
that the cell may exist without any membranous
cover at all, that at one stage of its existence anaked
and separate mass of protoplasm constitutes the
whole cell—the whole organism, in fact. Masses of
protoplasm of this character do not, asa rule, long
remain in this condition. They contract, or they
throw out long “feelers,” as it were; they be-
come, moreover, clothed with hair-like processes of
extreme tenuity,- called “cilia.” By these means
they are enabled to move from place to place. At
other times masses of this character run together and
become incorporated into one mass, as invariably in
the reproductive process, and sooner or later each
one becomes clothed with a membranous covering, as
above mentioned. When this happens the cell is
perfected, and its activity is in a measure arrested.
Chlorophyll. — The first is the cell with
* chlorophyll.” Some cells contain no green colour-
ing matter at all, such are the cells constituting the
fungi at all periods of their life. Others, especially
those exposed to the light, contain in greater or less
proportion the green colouring matter called chloro-
phyll, the exact chemical nature of which is stilla
matter of dispute, although no such difference of
opinion exists as to its extreme importance. We
shall have to allude to it at greater length in con-
sidering the subject of leaf-action, and may, there-
fore, now confine ourselves to the general statement
that the special office of the cell containing chloro-
phyl] is to absorb carbonic acid gas from the atmo-
sphere, to break up that combination of carbon and
oxygen, to utilise the carbon, and set free the oxygen.
The cell without chlorophyll retains the oxygen and
gives out carbonic acid gas, as in the act of breathing.
Wood-cells.—Another cell, to which we must
here allude, is the wood-cell. It is generally
elongated in form and thickened in the interior
with woody deposit. Aggregations of such cells go
to form the skeleton, as it were, of the plant, stiffen
it, and enable it to support itself, and to resist the
Mate
Py
GLASS STRUCTURES AND APPLIANCES. 43
influence of wind. Cells of this character form the’
bulk of timber and of fibrous matter like hemp or
flax. (Fig. 33.)
‘Vessels.—Vessels constitute another modifica-
tion of cells, generally elongated, and with one
or more fibres coiled up in the interior. These
fibres are deposits from the protoplasm, similar
to the woody matter, but not spread in layers
over the whole inner surface of the cell. The fibre
GLASS STRUCTURES AND
APPLIANCES.
BELL-GLASSES, CLOCHES, HAND-LIGHTS,
HE fickleness and severities of our climate com.
pelled the horticulturist to have recourse to
protecting structures of some sort or other at very
early times. ‘The higher the culture and the more
beautitul and valuable the plants grown, the greater
\
Fig. 33.—Woody
Fibre, magnified.
may readily be seen by breaking across a leaf-stalk
of the Strawberry, when the fine fibres may be
pulled out. They either form complete coils, or
are broken up into sepaiate fragments, producing an
appearance of more or less regular bars, or pits, the
pits being really the interspaces between the ends of
the bars. All true flowering plants have spiral ves-
sels (Fig. 34). Ferns are remarkable for the posses-
sion of scalariform vessels, in which the bars are so
regularly arranged as to resemble the rungs of a
ladder. Usually they require the aid of the
microscope to render them visible. The vessels vary
in character in different cases, but it is not neces-
sary for our purpose to go into further detail.
Fig. 34.—Spiral Vessels between
Pith-cells and Wood-cells.
Fig. 35.—Striated and Punctated
Vessels of Melon.
the need of such structures to protect them from
sudden destruction. Hence the growing demand
for more “glass,” and better glass, may be said to
have run parallel with the advancement of horticul-
ture. Several counter-influences, however, checked
that demand. Among these the more potent were,
that its use was but imperfectly understood, its price
was high, its quality inferior. It was not until the
excise duty on glass was swept away that it was set
free and made fit for horticultural purposes. Long
before the era of Crystal Palaces, however, glass—
albeit it was mostly green rather than white—was
more or less freely used for horticultural purposes.
The vital importance of shelter without shadow was
44 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
then but very imperfectly realised; it can hardly be
said to be yet perfectly understuod. Any glass, the
thicker the better, was gladly welcomed by the cul-
tivator to protect his plants from the injurious
and destructive influences of cold. As these
plants were from the necessity of the case generally
or invariably in the open ground, it followed that
the glass had to be carried to the plants—not the
plants to the glass, as is now so generally done.
Hence the origin of bell-glasses, hand-lights, glass
boxes, frames, and all the smaller glass protectors and
appliances now so common and so useful in horti-
cultural practices. They carried protection to the
Fig. 1.—Movable Top.
Fig. 2.—With Knob.
. unless unusually well made, mostly admits more or
less of the surrounding air to the atmosphere it
encloses. Hence, for purposes of propagation, i-
which the production and maintenance of a semi-
saturated atmosphere is indispensable, bell-glasses
are best; while for the mere purposes of protection,
hand-lights are generally equally good, and even
in more general use.
However, the distinction here made between bell-
glasses and hand-lights is not always found to exist
in practice, for though bell-glasses as a rule are
mostly cut or moulded in one piece, considerable in-
genuity and expense have been expended on them to
Fig. 3.—Without Knob.
BELL-GLASSES.
plants, and enabled them to bridge over climatic
severities in safety, thus earning the well-merited
description of portable green-houses and conserva-
tories in miniature; and they are such, if function
rather than area is to be accepted as the basis of our
descriptive names. Hence it may prove as logical
as convenient to begin our notes on green-houses and
conservatories with these more humble glass struc-
tures and appliances.
Bell-glasses. — Horticultural history is silent
on the point of whether the bell-glass or the
hand-light was the first in the field asa plant pro-
tector. Most probably the former. The most vital
difference between them is that the one is run or
moulded in one piece; the other is formed or made
of several. This is not a mere distinction without a
difference. The bell-glass seals the enclosed atmos-
phere hermetically, cutting off all contact with the
external air. The hand-glass, on the contrary,
make the top movable at will (see Fig. 1) for pur-
poses of ventilation and the moderating of extremes
of temperature. By removing the super glass
that seals the opening in the crown, the enclosed
temperature can be adjusted to a nicety and any
amount of air admitted. This obviates the necessity
of moving the glass bodily, which is objectionable on
the ground of inconvenience in. the case of large
glasses, and also because, when frequently moved,
the glass seldom sits so closely on its base as to
render it wholly air-proof at that point, a matter
of more importance in propagation than for protec-
tive purposes.
The major portion of bell-glasses have, however,
always been, and are still, made in one piece, and
hence, if placed on an even and level base, hermeti-
cally seal the enclosed area. They are made of dif-
ferent sizes, from two inches to twelve inches or
more in diameter. They may also be had with or
without knobs (see Figs. 2 and 3). We had almost
GLASS STRUCTURES AND APPLIANCES. - 46
written that the former are bell-glasses and the
latter cloches. But this would hardly be correct,
though the majority of cloches are knobless. They
are more easily made and consequently cheaper, and
take far less space to pack and store, without knobs.
Against this must be placed the greater convenience
for lifting and removal furnished by the knobs.
Hitherto in this country the use of bell-glasses has
been chiefly confined to purposes of propagation (see
Fig. 4) and the protection of tender plants. Useful
and indispensable as they
are in regard to these,
they are still more valu-
able as stimulants to cul-
tivation. In France and
other parts of the Con-
tinent they are so gene-
- rally used, and that in so
wholesale a way, that it
is no exaggeration to say
that in certain seasons and
localities each caulifiower,
AGATA ARES
.
SSE S
<
ANAS TSS SK
Fig. 4.—CuTTINGS UNDER BELL-GLASSES.
aa, Bell-glasses ; b, hot-bed; c, hot-water pipes to
lieat b; d, walls of the pit.
They not merely protect seeds from the ravages
of birds, but hasten their germination and carry the
young plants through the danger period with a
rush.
Hand-lights.—Of these we furnish illustrations
of several varieties (Figs. 5, 6, 7), all used for simi-
lar purposes to cloches and bell-glasses, and very
frequently as substitutes for them. For the pur-
poses of fostermg growth and the protection of
semi-tender plants they
are equal or superior to
either, while their. larger
: size enables them to cover
AN CERSAIY)| larger plants and enclose
wider areas. Unless par-
Sk ticularly well made and
WSN VV, Yi, carefully used they are
\S Ay, sever so close as the
ee cloche or bell-glass, and
hence not so well adapted
for purposes of propaga-
Fig. 5.—Copper Frame in one piece.
Fig. 6.—Ivon Frame in one piece.
Fig. 7.—Movable Top placed to
admit air.
HAND-LIGHTS,
lettuce, and endive or salad plant has its cloche ; and
the large, sweet, crisp produce from under them
affords the highest possible testimony to their fos-
tering power in accelerating and enlarging growth.
Their effect on quality is equally striking, perhaps
even more so, while they reduce the time from the
start to the finish to the shortest possible limits.
Hitherto the stimulating influences of cloches and |
bell-glasses have been mostly confined to the culti-
vation of salads and such vegetables as Cucumbers
and Cauliflowers in the open air. Probably they
have a yet greater field of usefulness before them in
the future, in connection with the fostering of early
spring flowers and the protection of semi-tender
plants, and perhaps the culture of hardier varieties of
Melons in the open air. Their usefulness in raising
seeds in the open has long been recognised.
tion, unless for such common things as Pinks,
Cloves, and Carnations, pipings of which root rapidly
under hand-lghts.
The old-fashioned hand-lights (Figs. 5 and 6)
were made in one piece, the ribs being formed of
iron, copper, zinc, or lead. On the whole, iron is
best as being the most durable, but copper was
generally used at one time, the base and the upper
side of the vertical portion being formed of iron.
Now the entire framework is generally formed of
iron, the upper side of the sash-bars being rebated sa
as to receive the glass. But dry glazing in horti-
culture was first applied to hand-glasses, and is still
practised in the formation of such caps or hand-
glasses as those illustrated in Figs.5 and 6. Inall
these, and several other forms that might be de-
scribed, the whole of the hand-light, when finished,
46 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
is in one piece, and hence it must be lifted off bodily
to give access to the plants, or partially from its base
to admit air to them.
To prevent the trouble and inconvenience of this,
the hand-light in two pieces (Fig. 7) was invented,
the base or vertical portion being in one part and
the roof or sloping portion in another. This form
insures that the base of the light shall always be
air-tight, a cultural point of great importance, as
chills there seriously affect growth. Air can be
freely admitted by tilting up one side, and that
the sheltered one of the top, or by turning it
slightly or boldly out of the square, asin Fig. 7.
By lifting the top off wholly, free access is had to
the plants for purposes of top-dressing, culture,
training, &c. The tops are held firmly in position
Marrow, and many other purposes, such as the fos-
tering and the growth of seeds and plants; and no
garden can be properly furnished with horticultural
appliances without several hand-lights. In large
gardens the supply ranges from two to five or even
twenty dozen.
MISCELLANEOUS PROTECTORS.
Glass and Barthenware.— Various other con-
trivances have been adopted to run abreast with or
fs SS
SS . SSS’ 5
WSN
Fig. 8.—Glazing combined with Hollow Bricks or Tiles.
by their own weight: but in very windy or exposed
positions, projections peoceed from the cap or cover-
ing part of the light, that overlap the bottom por-
tion. These hold the two together as in @ vice, and
render any displacement quite impossible, while the
specific gravity of the top insures its vertical se-
curity.
Hand-lights are made of different sizes, and are of
the greatest possible use in horticultural practice.
Perhaps the most useful are those of fifteen or
eighteen inches square, with a height of level side
of six or nine inches, and a total height of fifteen or
eighteen inches. These are admirably adapted for
the wintering of Cauliflower plants, each light hold-
ing five; placing over ridge Cucumbers or Vegetable
supersede cloches and hand-lights. These have all
been useful in assisting cultivators in their incessant
warfare against climatic severities. One of the
simplest of these is an inverted flower-pot. Being
opaque, these of course have to be removed or tilted
up in the day-time. They are, however, extremely
useful for the protection of such plants as Dahlias,
Cauliflowers, &c., in the early summer, as they re-
sist all the late spring frosts with perfect ease and
success.
Attempts used to be made to render them more
useful and to convert them into day protectors as
well as night, either by enlarging the holes in the
bottom, or by knocking the bottom out and placing
a sheet of glass over it, keeping the latter in posi-
GLASS STRUCTURES AND APPLIANCES. 47
tion in windy weather by placing a pebble or other
stone or weight on the top of it. These partially
transparent pots proved very efficient protectors,
with far more cold-resisting powers than either
cloches or hand-lights.
This probably led the late Mr. Rendle, the author
of the tank system of heating—and now chiefly
known in connection with a new method of dry
glazing—to his successful attempts to combine the
cold-resisting qualities of earthenware with the
transparent properties of glass in a new and more
ambitious method of protecting fruits, flowers, and
vegetables in the open air. Hollow or solid tiles
were used for the sides, which could be built up of
any height, finishing with a groove on the inner
We YQ
WEE, WA
BREN
shows the glass overlapping where it joins, thus
making the whole almost waterproof.
It is obvious that,.by heightening the sides and
increasing the width, sufficient area may be provided
for the culture of Roses, fruit-trees, dwarf shrubs,
Peas, French Beans, or other plants or flowers. In
such cases bricks on the flat do well for the base,
the groove-tiles being merely reserved for the top.
Of course, as the area is extended, the strength of
the glass must also be increased, to enable it to bear
the weight and wear-and-tear of use; but the most
useful sizes range from four to twelve inches deep in
front, from six to twenty-four at back, and from
nine to thirty in width.
By curving the back tile in the form of a C, as in
\\\ oN
\ —
Fig. 9.—Large Protector for Vine or Cordon Fruit-trees.
side of the top tile for the reception of a square of
stout glass. This system enables areas of any needed
size to be enclosed with the utmost facility and
safety.
The system has now been in use for some years,
and though it has not superseded bell-glasses nor
cloches, has proved most useful in the culture and
protection of salads, the earlier maturation of French
Beans and Tomatoes, the growth of Cucumbers, the
forwarding of bulbs and other spring flowers, the
efficient protection of Plum and other cordon fruit-
trees, and even the growth of Vines in the open
air (see Fig. 9).
For most purposes the tiles are merely straight or
hollow ones, terminated with a groove upon their
upper edge (Fig. 8), which are admirably adapted
for the protection of Cauliflowers or the culture of
Lettuces or other salad plants. The hollow tiles
are certainly lighter, and are said to be warmer than
the solid ones.
Fig. 8 gives a full illustration of those most use-
ful appliances, and explains how the stout square of
glass is fitted into the groove of the tiles; it also
Fig. 9, more space, as wellas more warmth, is pro-
vided. These have been used most successfully for
the growth and ripening of Grape-vines, and, as
already remarked, are equally well adapted for the
protection and successful cultivation of cordon fruit-
trees, Maréchal Niel, and other rather tender Roses.
Fig. 10 isa special protector, not unlike a section of
a large sewage or water-pipe, only that it is fur-
nished around a considerable portion of its upper
side with a groove for the reception of a square of
glass ; being, in fact, a great improvement on the
inverted flower-pots with their bottoms knocked out,
already adverted to. This is a most useful form for
placing over tender trees, shrubs, or other plants,
such as Fuchsias, Tree Peonies, Hydrangeas, &c., to
carry them safely through’ severe winters in cold
localities. This formis also admirably adapted for
placing over the crowns of Rhubarb in the open,
after the more severe frosts of the spring have passed
away. The heat of the sun passes freely through
the glass, and that heat is retained by the thick
earthenware case, the result being a rapid produc-
tion of edible produce. One great advantage of
43 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
these protectors over cloches and hand-lights arises
from the opacity of their earthenware sides. This,
and the enclosed atmosphere well stored with caloric,
render them frost-proof in ordinary weather. In
seasons of severe frost the semi-level or gently sloping
surface of their roof may readily be covered with
litter, mats, boughs,.or other cold-resisters, thus in-
suring the safety of the plants. Beli-glasses and
hand-lights are not only sooner cooled down to the
standard of the surrounding atmosphere, but their
peculiar forms render it difficult, almost impossible,
to cover them effectually, unless indeed sufficient
litter is used to reach as high as their crowns.
Protectors with wooden sides, grooved on their
upper inner edges for the reception of glass, have
also been very success-
fully used. These ab-
sorb less heat than the
earthenware ones, but
they also part with it
more slowly, so that
virtually the sides of
such are proof against
the ingress of cold. The
chief objection to the
use of wood thus placed
on or in the damp
earth is that it very
soon rots; otherwise no
protectors can be more
simply made, put up, or
used. A six-inch-wide
board in front, one inch
thick, a foot-wide one at
the back, placed a foot apart, the distance being
spanned with a sheet of 21-oz. glass, will carry
numbers of salad and other plants safely through the
winter. The sides of old packing-boxes, without
top and bottom, placed on the soil with one or more
sheets of glass over them, form rough-and-ready, yet
very safe and useful protectors, that must be within
reach of all. We have even heard of old hat, bon-
net, and ribbon boxes—those made of paper and of
shavings—deep punnets, and other forms of basket
and of wicker-work, doing good service as pro-
tectors in the early spring and autumn. Calico,
canvas, and felt protectors, tightly strained on any
sort of rough wood or wire frames, are also very
efficient.
But these last-named contrivances bring us in
close proximity to the one-light frame, itself per-
haps the most useful appliance within the whole
range of horticultural practice, and the germ of
all our magnificent glass-houses for horticultural
purposes, which will form the subject of our next
chapter.
¢
Fig, 10.—Special Protector of Glass and Earthenware.
THE FLOWER GARDEN.
By WILLIAM WILDSMITH.
VASES AND BASKETS.
S adjuncts to the various styles of flower gar-
dening, and of summer bedding in parti-
cular, vases are indispensable; but, like everything
else connected with gardening, good judgment is
requisite, as to what number, size, or shape shall
be employed, and what positions they are to occupy.
All of these conditions can only satisfactorily be
dealt with according to the standpoint or style of
each garden. Thus, the question of vases and
baskets becomes to a large extent a personal matter. —
But for all that it may be well to indicate the line of
procedure to best insure
a good result ; and first
as to the extent to which
this form of floral decora-
tion should be carried.
Number.—A severely
formal parterre may most
appropriately have the
largest number of vases,
but even in this connec-
tion their use may be,
and often is, excessive.
On the pedestals of steps,
and principal angles of
balustrades, and also on
the turf as dividing-
marks, so to speak,
between the varying
designs of beds—to this extent only ought they to
be used. Those having any doubt as to whether
more or less should be employed, may soon decide
the point by temporarily placing either vases, or
their representatives in the form of blocks of wood
or large flower-pots; and if, after surveying the
garden from all points, it has the appearance of
being over-weighted with ornament, or if the vases ~
cut up or intersect the view of the beds, their
number should be reduced till such appearances are
imperceptible. In small gardens their number
should be confined to the pedestals of steps at
the entrance to the house, and as centres on the
grass-plot.
Size and Shape.—These points also are only
determinable after taking into account the character
and surroundings of the garden. Obviously vases
of large size would look quite out of place in a small
garden, and vice versa; whilst as to shape, the
simplest designs are ever the most pleasing, and—
what is of greater importance—are generally better
oe, Dies oe
- THE FLOWER GARDEN. 49
adapted to the growth of plants than the more fanci-
ful shapes. Utility rather than ornamentation should
be a prime consideration, if the growth of plants is
to be of a satisfactory nature.,
Baskets.—These may be said to be forms of
vases on a large scale, and are better suited for
certain positions than ordinary vases are. A basket-
formed bed, in fact, looks well in almost any spot
where a flower-bed does not look out of place; and—
constructed of wicker or strong wire according to
the taste of the operator. Baskets of this character
are most appropriately placed in quiet nooks among
shrubs, or as a terminus to walks where it is desired
to have flowers. On a small scale they look ex-
ceedingly well in old-fashioned gardens of hardy
flowers, and being just as appropriately filled with
this class of flowers as with summer bedders, there
is no reason why they should not be assigned a
place in such gardens; certainly they ought to
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BASKET-BED aT H&ECKFIELD PLACE, WINCHFIELD.
what to some is a great consideration—such can
be constructed of home materials. The stump of an
old tree hollowed out, and handles of wicker or
wire-work over it for climbers, makes a basket-vase
equal in appearance to the finest stone or cement
work, and is certainly preferable to the latter for
placing in distant parts of the pleasure-grounds,
or indeed in any part except in a “ dressed” garden
which abounds in stone-work.
Another kind of basket-bed that looks exceedingly
_ well is that formed by cutting up Larch or Spruce
_ Fir poles into regular lengths of, say two feet,
_ which,
_ ground close together, to the form the bed is desired
_ to assume (round looks best), then to be filled in
_ with soil to the height of the wood, and handles
after being pointed, are driven into the
28
be far preferred to vases of a dressy and formal
pattern.
Basket-beds intended for the parterre, as a matter
of course, must be of a more elaborate description.
The one shown in the illustration is made of
Portland cement, in imitation of stone, the design
being of a true basket description. It stands two
feet six inches above the ground-level, is sixteen
feet long, and eight feet wide at the middle, and
gradually tapers to five feet at the ends, the shape
being what may be described as a well-halanced
oval. The position this bed occupies is the centre of
the turf on a terrace-garden, on each side of which
there are beds of geometric design; this, and
smaller baskets of similar design, allowing when
necessary of such beds being planted after the most
50 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. ee.
rigidly formal pattern, without their really appearing
so, solely by reason of the informal style of planting
the baskets.
These large basket-beds are well suited to occupy
the most conspicuous positions in any type of
geometrical garden, and are every way an advance
on what may be termed the “stone and statuary
- gardening,” which is a far too invariable accom-
paniment to gardens of this character. The latter,
viewed from an architectural point of view, may be
in good taste, and quite proper, but so far as
gardening is concerned, deserve entire exclusion in
favour of the useful yet appropriate substitutes here
named. This same description of basket-bed may
be of any desired shape or size to suit any given
spot. We have them oval, round, and square, and
of various sizes. The round occupies a central
position on turf, surrounded with beds of circular
outline; the square, the like position surrounded
with beds square in outline; and the ovals serve
really as a set of beds to divide two other sets of beds
—oblongs and rounds—which without such division
would present a depressingly formal appearance.
Soil and Planting.—It is almost needless to
add that good soil is of greater importance in vase
and basket culture than for flower-beds, the confined
space, exposure to sunshine, and other artificial con-
ditions, rendering good soil an imperative necessity.
A good holding loam and well-rotted cow-manure is
the best description of soil for nearly every kind of
flowering plant ; but all cannot obtain this descrip-
tion of soil, and it must therefore suffice to say, use
the best at command. If light, press it the more
firmly together; if poor, add a greater quantity of
manure ; and, above all, well drain.
As to planting, or arrangement of plants, person-
ally we prefer mixtures both for vases and basket-
beas.
desirable in regard to small vases, though even with
these we would never have less than twe kinds of
plants—one for upright growth, and the other to
droop over the sides. This latter is a much-neg-
lected point in the furnishing of vases, but only
requires a very moderate amount of thought, or,
better still, a practical comparison of the two modes
—with and without drooping plants—to make the
practice general.
The following are given as fair samples of mixtures
we would advise for the generality of vases: a tall
Fuchsia, surrounded with Pelargoniums, flowering
and variegated alternate, and edged with Ivy-leaved
Pelargonium to droop over the sides. Another: a
central plant of Grevillea robusta, surrounded with
scarlet and rose-coloured Pelargoniums, edged with
blue Lobelia and Pelargonium Manglesii variegata
A departure from this rule may, perhaps, be.
alternate. Another: a central plant of variegated -
Abutilon, surrounded with dark-flowered Fuchsias
and tall variegated Pelargoniums alternate, and
edged with scarlet Zropeolum Lobbianum. Another:
a central plant of Albizzia lophantha, surrounded with
variegated Pelargonium (Lady Plymouth), and pink
Pelargonium (Christine), and edged with variegated
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums and Viola Blue-bell.
Basket-beds being so much larger, the variety of
mixtures can be of unlimited extent, only great care
should be exercised in the disposition of the plants,
that when full-grown they may present a somewhat
even balance as to height over the whole basket, the
highest point being at the centre. The planting of
the basket shown in the illustration is as follows :
the tall plants are Abutilons, Cannas, Marguerites,
and single Dahlias; the intermediate size being
Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Marvel of Peru, Petunias,
and Heliotropes; the smaller and outer line oz
plants are Lobelias, Verbenas, Violas, Stocks, Asters,
variegated Pelargoniums, &c. The drooping plants
are Tropeolum, Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, Japanese
Honeysuckle, Cobe@a scandens, Maurandyana Bar-
clayana, and Clematis.
These examples will suffice to show the manner of
arrangement of dressed vases and baskets; that of
rustic vases and baskets may be of a simpler de-
seription and of hardier plants, with a view to
permanence of effect. Shrubs of the Retinospora or
Cupressus order may be used as centres, and the
edgings of Ivy, Periwinkles, Japanese Honeysuckle,
and Violas, whilst the handles may be climbing
Roses, Clematis, and Tropzolums; scarlet Pelargo-
niums intermixed with these in the summer season
are really all that is needed to make an excellent
summer arrangement. Should it be wished to plant
these rustic-formed beds with flowering plants, the
same as the more dressy baskets, they may of course
be so planted, but a few small shrubs dotted over
them, and variegated Ivy and Periwinkle as
droopers, ought to be used with the flowers, to bring
them into greater harmony with the surrounding
shrubs, which position, we repeat, is the best for
beds of this description.
The winter arrangement of vases and baskets
must necessarily be done with shrubs of suitable size
and description, and by following out the same rule
of arrangement as for the summer, particularly in
regard to overhanging plants; Ivies, Periwinkles
(Vincas), Japanese’ Honeysuckles, and Cotoneasters
being excellent plants for that purpose.
Watering and Keep.—Good soil and perfect’
arrangement are valueless if after-attention be want-
ing. The first requisite, after planting, is a good —
watering to well settle the soil about the roots; next
\
4
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 51
a mulching or surfacing of leaf-soil, decayed ma-
nure, or cocoa-fibre refuse (this last the neatest),
which prevents cracking of the soil, and renders it
unnecessary to water so frequently, though when
this is done it
should be _ tho-
roughly, and not
in daily driblets.
’ Of course in hot
dry weather. the
smaller vases re-
quire watering
daily, and even
twice a day; yet it
should not be for-
gotten that frequent
watering is an evil,
often an unavoid-
able one; but to
some extent sur-
face-mulching pre-
vents this, and
therefore ought to
be renewed when-
ever it is needed.
: Next to watering
and mulching, is
the necessity of
picking off all
seed-pods and de-
' cayed flowers.
These quickly ex-
haust the plants,
_ growth is checked,
and continuous
flowering becomes
an impossibility.
7 The effort there-
ir fore should be
_ made to pick over the plants at least once each week,
4 and to apply manure-water once in the same period.
f
VE Ba Je Z \
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.
By WitiiAm Hucu Gower.
Clianthus. — Pea-flowering plants of noble
“4 aspect, well deserving a place in every green-house.
_ The soil should consist of loam and peat in equal
| parts, with alittle sand added. All the kinds
| require an abundant supply of water, but it must
ca not be allowed to stagnate about the roots, and in
| summer the syringe must be freely used in order to
| prevent the attacks of red spider.
©. puniceus—the first species introduced to culti-
yyy —f
CLIANTHUS DAMPIERII.
vation—is a native of New Zealand, where, from the
appearance of the flowers, it gets the name of
Parrot’s- bill. The pinnate leaves are some six
inches long, and dark green; above, paler, and
slightly hairy be-
low; flowers pro-
duced in large
pendulous clusters
from the axils of
the leaves; deep
reddish - crimson,
the individual
flowers being up-
wards of three
inches in length.
This plant requires
frequent pinching
in order to produce
a bush, as from its
natural habit it is
more adapted to
train upon a pillar
or trellis-work. In
many places the
Glory Pea, as it is
sometimes called,
forms a_ beautiful
object planted out
and trained upon a
wall in the open
air, but im very
severe weather it
should have protec-
tion. Cuttings and
seeds. May and
June. 1831.
CO. Dampierit
(Dampier’s Glory
Pea) is a_ less
robust-growing plant than the last-named kind. It
is a native of the arid desert regions of Australia,
and, like so*°many plants from such habitats,
proves very troublesome to cultivate; nevertheless,
the flowers are so gorgeous that when brought to
perfection it well repays any amount of care.
Hitherto this plant has only been increased by seeds,
and appears to be more of a biennial than a peren-
nial species. The seeds should be sown singly and
should be re-potted in the large flowering-pots at
once, as it cannot suffer repeated shifting. The
stems and leaves are all covered with long grey
hairs, which gives it quitea hoary appearance.
Flowers larger than in C. puniceus; produced in
drooping racemes of five or six in a cluster; vivid
scarlet, with a large black blotch at the base. It
flowers during the summer months.
52 ‘
Cobeza.—A genus of climbing plants belonging
to the Phlox-worts. In appearance, however, they
have nothing in common with the other members of
the order. Cobseas are perennial plants of very
rapid growth, it being recorded that a plant of C.
scandens has been known to make two hundred feet
of growth in a single season, so that if any one re-
quires the roof of a green-house or conservatory
to be rapidly
covered, this is
by all means the
best plant to use
for the purpose.
They thrive best
in a somewhat
stiff soil. Propa-
gation either by
seeds or cuttings.
C. scandens.—It
is about a hun-
dred ‘years ago
since this rapid-
growing and
beautiful climber
first opened its
flowers in this
country; in its
native country it
is called the
sa Waoleb ° avy.”
Its leaves are
pinnate, usually
being three pairs
of pinne, the
midrib termi-
nating -n a long
tendril, by which
it becomes firmly
fixed to anything
within its reach.
Flowers large,
bell-shaped, on
long foot-stalks,
from the axils of the leaves; when young, green,
changing to rich deep violet-purple when fully
expanded; stamens much exserted. It blooms
during the entire season. Mexico.
C. scandens variegata.—An exact "counterpart of
the preceding species, but the leaves are all beauti-
fully margined with creamy-white, which renders it
very attractive. These plants are valuable as
green-house climbers on account of their freedom
from all kinds of insects. Summer months.
C. macrostemma.—A smaller-growing species than
C. scandens, but very similar in appearance. The
flowers, however, are much smaller and far inferior
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
in beauty. When young they are green, but they
change to yellow with age. Summer months.
South America.
Coronilla.—The plants comprising this genus
derive their name from the arrangement of the
flowers, which form a corona or crown on the points
of the branches. The species here quoted is in-
valuable for
green-house deco- ©
ration. The soil
should be two
parts loam and
one peat, with a
little sand added.
During the grow-
ing season give
plenty of air, and
if removed out-
doors after
growth is finished
it will be -very |
beneficial. Cut-
tings in sandy
soil.
C. glauca. — A
fine - growing
shrubby plant,
with pinnate
glaucous leaves;
flowers Pea-
shaped, bright
yellow, and fra-
grant. There is
a variety with
variegated leaves.
which affords a .
pleasing contrast
to the normal
form. South of
Europe. 1772.
CoBRA SCANDENS.
Correa.—
These are often called Australian Fuchsias, although |
they are not related in any way to that popular
genus of plants, the habit of growth and droop-
ing tubular flowers no doubt giving the first
settlers at the Antipodes a pleasant reminder of
the flower they had left behind in the old country.
There are numerous species, but many new and
handsome forms have originated in English gardens
from cross-breeding. The usual method of propaga-
tion is by cuttings, but some of the kinds are weak
rooters,and hence to improve the constitution these
are frequently grafted upon a strong-growing species ~
called C. alba, the flowers of which are not showy.
=
>< ae ee OE
Fay RS eet . ¥
ee a
3 2 os
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS,
I); :
ee
GROUP OF CoRREAS.
53
AN CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
A mixture of two parts peat, one of light loam, and
one of sharp sand suits them admirably ; drain well,
and water abundantly, but carefully. Correas soon
grow into handsome specimens if a little care is be-
stowed upon them. Re-pot before the shoots begin
to start, or when the young growths have made one
or two joints; look carefully over the plants and
pinch out the points in order to encourage laterals,
by which means bushy plants will be obtained.
When somewhat established in their new pots, they
will be much benefited by removal to the open air,
choosing a position in which they can be protected
from rough weather, and where the full power of
the sun is tempered with a little shade. In autumn
remove them in-doors, where their beautiful flowers
will enliven the green-house throughout the dull
months of winter. All are natives of Australia,
chiefly in the southern and eastern parts.
C. Brilliant.—F lowers bright crimson, very fine.
C. cardinalis.—One of the finest and most showy
kinds. Flowers bright scarlet, tipped with green.
This plant naturally makes but few leaves, and re-
quires frequent stopping in order to obtain laterals,
or it will present a somewhat naked appearance.
C. Jardin @ Hiver.—F lowers bright scarlet. A very
desirable plant, and one that is well furnished with
foliage.
C. magnifica.—A robust kind; flowers large, white.
C. pulchella.—A twiggy-growing species, and very
handsome. Flowers crimson. 1824.
C. speciosa.—F lowers crimson, tipped with green.
1806.
Crinodendron.— A family belonging to the
Lindenblooms or Tiliacee. Thereis but one species
known, and this appears to be rare, even in its
native country, where it is called ‘‘ Chequehue.” It
should be grown in a mixture of good rough peat
and loam, with some sharp sandadded. Drain the
pots well, and supply liberally with water during
the growing season.
C. Hookerianum.—This is the only species, but is
also known by the name of C. Patagua. The leaves
are opposite or alternate, oblong lanceolate, and
acute, slightly toothed on the edges, bright green
above, paler below. The flowers are produced singly
or in pairs, on long pendulous foot-stalks. They are
bell-shaped, thick and fleshy in texture, and rich
rosy-crimson in colour. It is a very handsome
dwarf-growing shrub, well deserving a place in every
collection of green-house plants. Spring months.
Southern Chili. The correct name of this plant is
Tricuspidaria hexapetala.
Crowea.—A small family of Rue-worts, all
natives of Australia. And, as so many of the
plants from that country are spring bloomers, it
behoves the cultivator to encourage such plants
as the various species of Croweas, which follow
them, and continue to maintain a succession of these
handsome flowers right into the autumn. Croweas
are not, however, as a rule, seen in our plant-houses
in the happiest condition, for the reason that too
many cultivators treat them more as stove plants
than green-house subjects. This system never fails
to produce a lax growth and sickly yellowish-green
foliage ; but give them a situation in the green-house
where they are not overcrowded, free ventilation,
and full exposure to the light, and Croweas will
grow into handsome specimens, which in due time
will contribute their share to the beauty of the
garden.
The soil should consist of ood peat and light
loam, in the proportion of three of the former to
one of the latter, with a liberal addition of sand ;.
drain well, and water carefully. To form good
bushy and shapely specimens, the points of the
shoots should be frequently stopped and any gross
shoot cut quite out, or the symmetry of the plant
will be spoiled. This stopping, however, should not
be carried to excess, or the points with the flowers
will also be destroyed.
C. elliptica.—Leaves simple, ovate, and dotted,dark
green. The flowers are produced in whorls of five,
star-shaped, and beautiful bright pink in colour.
June to end of autumn.
C. latifolia —Leaves narrowly ovate, and bright —
green, like all the family prettily dotted on the upper
side ; flowers purple. Summer to end of autumn.
C. saligna (the Willow-leaved Crowea) has bright
pink flowers, produced all through the summer and —
autumn months.
Daphne.—A widely-distributed family of plants,
most of which are distinguished for the delicate
fragrance their flowers emit. It is rather remarkable
that, although the various species are distributed
over most of the temperate and tropical parts of the —
world, none have been found in Africa. Daphnes ©
will thrive and flower well under similar treat-
ment to, and in the company of, Camellias; indeed,
the largest and best we have seen have always been
growing with them. When established they pro-
duce an enormous quantity of flowers.
These plants thrive best in soil composed of two
parts good turfy loam, one part fibrous but not
spongy peat, and one part sharp sand. The pots must
be well drained, and a liberal supply of water given
during the growing season. These plants are usually
slow-growing, and are generally grafted upon other
stronger-growing kinds.
D. indica alba.—Leaves oblong laneeeinees smooth,
and bright shining green; racemes terminal, many-
a ee Se ss
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. | 55
flowered, white, and deliciously fragrant. Winter
and early spring months. China.
D. indica rubra.—A more robust grower than the
preceding, but in other respects it is similar to it ;
the heads of flower are reddish-pink on the outside
instead of pure white; they are very fragrant. It
blooms during the winter and early spring months.
China.
Dillwynia.—This genus contains many hand-
some species ; they are Pea-flowered plants, and re-
quire about the same treatment as Chorozemas. They
bloom during spring and early summer, and continue
in full beauty for a considerable time. All are natives
of Australia.
D. ericefolia.—F lowers yellow, in short racemes
‘or clusters; frequently found in collections under
the name of D. floribunda. 1794.
D. parvifolia.—Flowers borne in terminal clus-
ters; pale yellow, stained with red at the base.
1800.
D. pungens.—F lowers bright yellow. 1825.
D. sanguinea.—¥ lowers deep red and yellow.
D. scabra.— A fine species, producing terminal
corymbs of bright red flowers. 1850.
_ D. speciosa.—F lowers yellow and crimson.
D. splendens.—F lowers orange and red.
1838.
Dracophyllum.—Nearly related to Epacris;
the various members are distributed throughout New
Zealand, New Caledonia, and Australia. The solitary
species we quote here is a handsome and very de-
sirable green-house shrub; it is a slender-stemmed
and somewhat straggling-growing plant, and is seen
to best advantage when trained upon a trellis. It
should be potted in a compost of nearly all peat and
sand, but a small portion of light loam added will
be found advantageous; in potting, press the
mould down very firm, as the plant will not touch
root in loose soil. Cuttings root tolerably free
inserted in sandy soil and placed under a bell-
glass.
D. gracile.—Leaves small, subulate, dark green ;
stems slender, the points bearing a compact head of
snow-white flowers; these are produced about the
month of May, and last a month or six weeks in full
beauty. Australia.
Dryandra.—A genus of Proteacee containing
many species, the majority of which are more to be
admired for the beauty of their leaves than their
flowers. ‘These, like many other Proteaceous plants,
have not found so much favour of late years in the
horticultural world as they did in the earlier part of
the present century, but they well deserve the atten-
tion of those having large collections, as they afford
a beautiful contrast of foliage, which is particularly
delightful during winter when there is a scarcity of
flowers to divert the eye. The genus commemorates
the services of Dr. Dryander, a celebrated botanist
and librarian to Sir Joseph Banks. They are nearly
allied to, and require the same treatment as, Banksia.
All are natives of the south and south-western parts
of Australia.
D. armata.—A small-growing shrub with deeply
pinnatifid leaves, which are about three inches long,
with sharp-pointed triangular lobes, dark green ;
flowers yellow, not conspicuous.
D. aretcides.—A_ pretty little species, seldom ex-
ceeding two or three feet in height; leaves three to
four inches long, pinnatifid, divided almost to the
base; lobes linear, deep green above, clothed with a
white silky tomentum beneath; flowers yellow,
small,
D. nervosa.—A dwarf plant, with deeply pin-
natifid leaves, segments linear, lanceolate, some-
times inclining to falcate, deep green above,
reddish-brown beneath, where the veins are very
prominent.
D. nivea.—One of the most elegant members of
this family, seldom exceeding one or two feet in
height; leaves densely set, three to six inches long,
linear and pinnatifid, divided into small triangular
segments; they are dark green, but the under surface
is of a uniform pure white, which renders it very
attractive.
D. plumosa.— Whole plant very elegant and
feathery ; leaves six to eight inches long, pinnatifid,
with obtuse triangular lobes, deep green above,
white beneath. .
D. seneciifolia.—A dense compact species, some
three feet in height when mature ; leaves about three
inches in length, linear in outline, and divided into
narrow segments, which are dark green above, but
white beneath.
Eecremocarpus.—A small family of climbing
plants belonging to the Bignoniacee, natives of the
cooler parts of Chili and Peru, and although suffi-
ciently hardy to grow in the open air in this country
during the summer months, they must nevertheless
be looked upon as green-house plants, as under such
treatment their beauties are displayed to the greatest
advantage.
The requirements of these plants are very few, and
their management very simple, as they will grow in
almost any soil. When grown as border plants
Eccremocarpus are usually treated as annuals, and
raised from seed every year, the best time for sowing
being about the middle of February or beginning of
March, but when grown from cuttings they flower
both earlier and more profusely.
56
E. longiflorus—A handsome plant with tripinnate
leaves, the segments being oval and entire; raceme
drooping, bearing three to four long tubular flowers ;
calyx large, bright red; tube orange-yellow tipped
with green. Summer months. Peru.
E. scaber—known in some collections by the
name of Calampelis scabra—is a very ornamental plant,
attaining a height of about twelve feet; leaves
bipinnate, segments
somewhat cordate,
toothed at the
edges, bright sreen;
tlowers tubular,
orange and scarlet,
very showy. Sum-
mer months. Chili.
Butaxia. — A
smail family of Pea-
flowered plants
nearly allied to
Pultenea and Dill-
wynia, but, inde-
pendent of the
slight differences in
the formation of
their flowers, they
may at once be dis-
tinguished from
them by their op-
posite leaves. All
are natives of
Australia. The soil
and general treat-
ment are the same
as for Chorozema ;
doing best in a mix-
ture of about two
parts peat, one of
sharp sand, and one
of loam. Like those
also, they are
chiefly propagated
by cuttings, and require careful pruning back as
soon as the flowering season is over. If these points
are attended to, no- difficulty will be found in their
cultivation. '
E. myrtifolia.—A shrubby plant with slender
stems; leaves somewhat Myrtle-like; flowers yel-
low, situated in the axils of the leaves, in pairs, and
producing long racemes of bloom which are very
effective. Spring and early summer.
E. pungens.—A_ slender-growing plant, with nar-
row verticillate sharp-pointed leaves; flowers bright
orange and yellow, crowded into dense terminal
corymbs. Spring and early summer.
DRYANDRA ARCIOIDES.
CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING.
THE KITCHEN GARDEN.
By WILLIAM Harey.
Salsafy (Tragopogon porrifolius). French, Salsifis ;
German, Hafer-Wurzel ; Italian, Scorzonera bianca ;
Spanish, Astra vegetal._—This plant is a hardy peren-
nial, and a native of England, sometimes called
“ Oyster plant,” as the Spanish name shows. The
roots are long and
tapering when well
grown, of a white,
fleshy nature, al-
though, as the re-
sult of indifferent
culture in rich soil,
it is often produced
as a mere bundle of
small roots, knotted
together, and is
then little short of
useless for culinary
purposes. —
To grow the root
well a light mellow
soil should always
be chosen, at least
ten inches. deep.
When si preparing
such soil for the re-
ception of the seed,
so treat it, either by
means of shallow
trenching or very
deep digging, as to
place a layer of
good manure at a
depth of at least
eight inches below
the surface. This
can be easily done
by having a very
open trench in pro-
cess of deep dig-
ging, and placing the manure at the bottom of each
trench as the work proceeds.
Seeds should be sown in drill-rows during the
month of April or May, such drills to be drawn
moderately shallow, and about nine inches asunder.
Rake the seeds in neatly by drawing the rake trans-
versely across the rows. During the month of June,
when the plants have attained to three or four inches
in height, thin the rows out, so that five or six
inches space exist between each plant. Occasional
deep hoeings are alone requisite during the remain-
der of the summer. The crop is generally sufficiently
advanced for drawing, commencing during the month
\
ars 7 Bb ie ay
ae bi
Ne 8 eee een ee eS Se
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 57
of August, such a quantity only being drawn as are
required for use .each time. The plant, being so
thoroughly hardy, will be best left in the open ground
throughout the winter.
The young spring-formed shoots are used as a
green vegetable. Cut them off so soon as they attain
to sufficient size, and before seed-stalks are formed,
after which the plants are useless, and should be re-
moved to the rubbish-heap.
Seorzonera (Scorzonera hispanica). French,
Scorzonere ; German, Scorzoner ; Italian, Scorzonera.
—This plant, known also as “ Viper’s Grass,” is a
hardy perennial, a native of several distinct parts
of Southern Europe. The
roots are pure white with-
in, the rind or coating of a —
black colour, some of the
points of the extreme roots
being enlarged, or tapering,
though the general dia-
meter is the same through-
out. Owing to this pecu- Ss
liarity it has received the Wi SS
name of Viper’s Grass, as Ss yy,
the roots alone are supposed Ek A, pe
to resemble that reptile. | Cy
It thrives best in a deep J
sandy soil, having manure
placed at the depth of ten
or twelve inches below the
surface of the ground
only. Sow the seed upon
ground so prepared in
drills about one and a
half inches deep, and twelve inches between the
rows, early in the month of April. So soon-as the
plants are large enough, thin them out to six or seven
inches apart in the rows, keeping them well and
deeply hoed during the whole summer subsequently.
J
\\
4\
\y
Ni Jf
The roots are generally large enough for use early in ©
the month of September. Such as remain in the
ground until the month of December, take up, and
store away for use in the same manner as carrots are
stored for winter. This rootis often found to be un-
duly bitter when cooked; to neutralise this, scrape
off the outer rind, and place them in cold water for
an hour or two before cooking.
Sea-kale (Crambe maritima). French, COrambe
maritime; German, Seekohl, Meerkohl; Spanish,
Breton de Mar ; Italian, Crambo.—This is a hardy
British perennial, found in many parts of the country,
on the shores around our sea-coast. It is generally:
cultivated for the use of its young shoots in a per-
fectly bianched state, and it is a singular fact that it
has been found and collected for use in such blanched
state by the inhabitants resident near our western
shores, from a time anterior to any history we possess
as to the origin of the practice. Buried beneath the
sand blown upon its dormant roots during winter,
it pushes up through such sand in the early spring, at
which time the inhabitants referred to watch for its
advent, and collect the blanched shoots so formed.
Its successful culture as a permanent crop depends
greatly upon the proper preparation of the bed where-
in itis to be grown, the site it occupies, and such
perfect drainage as insures to the root-base immunity
from excessive moisture during the winter months.
The best site for it is a fully-exposed one, facing
the south, and if with pro-
tection from easterly and
north - easterly winds so
much the better. The soil
should be trenched to a
depth of at least two feet
or more, preparatory for
seed-sowing or root-plant-
ing, both being employed
more or less, as may be
most convenient.
An inhabitant of the
sea-shores, it delights in a
sandy soil. Where, there-
fore, sea-sand can be pro-
cured it should be used
abundantly in forming the
bed. And it is well to ob-
serve that a bed, well made
and planted, will continue
_ to give excellent crops for
eight and even twelve years. The writer has, indeed,
maintained a bed, with its original plants, in full
bearing for fourteen years, even though he forced the
plants upon this bed by the aid of fermenting mate-
rials each year during that period.
Where sea-sand is not obtainable the existing
soil must be treated more or less in accordance with
its native lightness or tenacity, as the case may
happen to be. Very light soils resting on gravel, or
a porous subsoil, will certainly be benefited by the
addition of stiff soil to it, and abundant manure
buried at the bottom of each trench, and in successive
strata, though intermixed with the soil as much as
possible throughout. Such soils, even when they
have been prepared thus far, being naturally poor
and light, should also have a good dressing of decayed.
manure spread over the surface, and forked in, even
after the trenching work has been finished.
Heavy, tenacious soils will be benefited by the
addition of road-scrapings, any kind of sand ob-
tained locally, and old dry mortar rubbish, along
aS CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
with manure in plenty. Especially is it necessary,
in connection with these latter, to place sandy mate-
rial, old mortar rubbish, or such ightening material,
near to the surface, so that the plants are more or
less embedded in it. If this be not done, and the
“stools,” with their crowns, lie with an excess of
moisture enveloping them throughout the winter,
they are liable to canker and its attendant decay, one
of the greatest enemies the plant is subject to.
Sea-kale is propagated both by means of seeds and
division of the growing roots. To raise it from
seeds, select a warm aspect and soil similar to that
recommended. As it is usual, and often most conve-
nient, to sow nursery beds whereon plants are to be
grown for ultimate transplanting on to the more per-
manent bed, the most convenient plan to follow is to
sow in drill-rows, for which purpose a generous and
free soil will generally suffice without such an amount
of preparation as is needful for permanent beds.
Draw shallow drill-rows with the corner of the hoe
one foot apart, and drop the seeds, which are large,
therein in such manner as to insure germination and
plant-formation at distances of not more than eight
inches apart. The first week in the month of April
is the best date to do so. So soon as the young
plants are well through the soil, hoe carefully and
well between them, doing so periodically through-
out the summer months, so as to insure the soil being
loose and free around them. Liquid manure given
to them during the month of July is a great aid to
free and fine growth. These young plants, having
remained in the ground through the winter months,
may be carefully taken up in the spring, and trans-
ferred into permanent plantations, at distances apart,
&c., in all ways similar to that recommended below
for bed-formation by means of direct seed-sowing.
Or they may be permitted to remain in the rows to
perfect a second summer’s growth, aided by a nice
dressing of decomposed manure, occasional waterings
of liquid manure, deep hoeings, &c. By these means
they form nice crowns for forcing during the follow-
ing winter, and should be taken up carefully, and
transferred to such proper places to insure this as are
recommended below.
To form permanent plantations by means of direct
seed-sowing, the site intended for permanent planta-
tion, having the soil trenched and prepared as re-
commended, should be carefully levelled and raked
over towards the end of the month of March. During
the first week in April mark out the whole space into
rows two feet asunder. Stretch the line along the
first row, and sow, at distances of two feet apart in
the rows, three pairs of seeds. These must be in-
serted at a uniform depth of two inches, in pairs,
about seven inches apart, at angles with each other.
Again stretch the line across the ground for the
second row, sowing in precisely the same way as for
the former triple pairs of seeds, but in such manner
that the sowings in this row be sown at angles with
the sowings in the previous one. The third row,
being at angles with this latter, will occupy a similar
place transversely to what the first-sown row does.
Br continuing thus the whole bed will be furnished
with separate ‘ stools,” at equal distances apart
throughout, giving to all the greatest possible
amount of space whereon to make repeated per-
manent summer growths.
As, however, “‘Sea-kale pots” vary in dimensions
in different places, and sowing seeds in triples, as ad-
vised, is intended to form as many crownsas possible,
to place each pot over for forcing and for blanching,
it may be convenient to take the measurements of the
pots on hand, and to sow the seeds at angles apart in
such manner as to insure that the plants, when grown
in the future, can be properly covered by them, which
may vary the measurement given.
When the young plants have formed, remove each
duplicate one in all instances where more than one
seed has germinated, giving all attention during the
following summers in regard-to hoeing, neatly torking
the surface of the ground over during the following
spring, &c.
Propagation by means of division of the roots, a
method often followed by growers for market who
are anxious to make the most of things, is very
simple. When the main roots are dug up for forcing,
a system generally followed by them also, every por-
tion of broken root, from the size of dry straight-
stick maccaroni upwards, is preserved for this pur-
pose. These are cut into uniform lengths of about
five inches, and dibbled, or laid in drill-rows chopped
out for them, with the thick ends just level with
the surface of the soil, in such manner that they form
buds, grow, and ultimately, after a summer or two,
perfect crowns, which in turn are used for forcing.
To make a plantation which shall give quicker re-
sults than by means of seed-sowing at angles, as
advised above, or by waiting to grow and perfect
the needful crowns for so doing in the home gar-
den, it is only necessary to prepare the bed, as ad-
vised, during the winter months, and to purchase a
hundred or two crowns about the month of February
for planting therein. These are always obtainable
from seedsmen, and at a very reasonable rate, and are
far more economical than seed-buying, sowing, and
waiting the result.
Preparing Sea-kale for use, whether this consist
of forcing, blanching, or retarding, is very simple,
though generally expressed under the term “‘foreing”
only. The original practice was to grow the plants
in beds or plantations, as recommended above, to then
place pots over the crowns, covering them with stable
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 59
litter, or fallen tree-leaves, &c.; such materials in
process of ferment giving heat for the earlier supply
about Christmas, bringing it on gradually about the
months of March and April without fermentation,
and, in the same way, retarding it during the month
of May. To insure the latter, however, it is only
necessary to place such cold materials over it before
signs of growth occur.
The all-important considerations connected with
this process are as follows :—For early forcing, to
produce a supply during the month of December, a
somewhat great heat will be requisite. To insure
this with safety, the materials should be first thrown
up into a conical heap, where they will, in process of
fermentation, become very hot. Meantime, the sur-
face of the bed should be neatly raked over, and
small mounds of sandy materials placed over the ma-
terials ; finely-sifted ashes will do, where the former
does not exist. The object of this is to protect the
more tender parts of the crowns from injury by any
excessive heat or steam which arises. Then the
pots must be fixed firmly upon the soil, so as to pre-
clude steam from ingress beneath them over the
crowns, placing the fermenting materials over as
many of the pots as are likely to be needed in a state
of production at one and the same time. Such
materials should be about two feet in height during
moderately temperate weather, and three feet high
during very severe frost and snow-weather. It
should not be of greater width at any one time than
is requisite to cover over three rows of crowns, con-
sidering always that the outside pots within the ma-
terial should have several inches against them on the
outer sides. Place a test-stick or two centrally down
to the bottom of the material, and should signs
of heat beyond 80° to 85° exist in the mass, removea
few forkfuls from the centre, to neutralise such ex-
cess, returning such as need be subsequently to renew
and maintain the heat when it begins to wane.
The maximum heat recommended is only necessary
when forcing is undertaken during the months of
November, December, and early in January. In a
week or ten days the crowns will start into growth.
So soon as this is observed reduce the heat to a
maximum of 60°, maintaining it as nearly as possible
at this uniformly. All fluctuations of temperature
cause the produce to be tough and stringy. As cut-
ting advances, remove the pots, and place them upon
other crowns in advance, placing the fermenting
material also thereon, with a little fresh added as
required, to maintain the necessary heat. As the
season advances, and the outer temperature rises, the
natural season of growth of the crowns being nearer,
less and less heat will be requisite, until during the
months of April and May probably no heat will be
requisite at all to insure excellent produce.
The other plan, most generally employed by
growers for market, as well as many others, is to dig
the grown and prepared roots up, shorten their ex-
.tremities, and bury them in soil or other material,
either in a Mushroom-house or other warm place,
according to the season; the only necessity being
the maintenance of such heat as previously suggested,
a nice supply of latent moisture around them, with
pertect exclusion of both light and air. The latter is
most important, any departure therefrom producing
red or green growth, in lieu of the necessary blanched
and perfectly white state. ;
When gathering the crop, cut each growth off with
a portion of the hard root-rhizome attached; this
will not only assist in keeping it fresh until used, but
enable its being pruned or trimmed with a better
base for the culinary purpose. When the crop is all
gathered remove the pots and materials, throwing a
little light litter over the wounded crowns to protect
them until about the first week in the month of May.
This also should then be removed; all pieces of
crowns which are above the ground-level cut down
to such a level, and a little manure be placed be-
tween the rows and just prickea in. In other words,
deep digging must not be resorted to, as the roots
generally traverse the ground horizontally, and would
by such a practice be cut in twain and injured. ~
One other important matter must be noticed. On
no account must any of the plants at any stage
be permitted to push up flower-stems. Immediately
these are observed—and they should be periodically
sought for—it is necessary to cut them out at the
ground-line. Where these are permitted to form, the
plant becomes blind as regards future produce, no
young crowns being capable of forming; the result,
a loss of the proper supply. :
Particulars regarding varieties cannot be much
depended upon in connection with this crop. There
exists, however, a variety which, for convenience, we
will name White variety, the young leaves, and old,
upon which have no trace of that pink margining so
characteristic of the plant. When forced, this white
varicty is of purer white, such pink traces being
entirely absent; for which reason it were well to
seed and otherwise increase such. To secure seeds,
permit the first growth upon any cluster of plants to
grow, when they will be formed abundantly. The
seeds are invariably encased in a large outer case.
Such case must not be removed; all seeds should be
sown, therefore, entire as grown.
Dwellers in towns, possessing no gardens whatever,
may, by purchasing two-year-old roots by the hun-
dred or more, readily grow the crop in boxes or bins,
in their cellars, or other dark, airless places, thereby
producing annual crops of an expensive vegetable,
cheaply.
60 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea). French, Epinard ;
German, Spinat ; Spanish, Espinaca ; Italian, Spinaci.
—There exist several distinct types of Spinach or
“< Spinage,’’ as written by old authors, a name de-
rived from the peculiar prickly seeds. The present
form, surnamed oleracea, or pot-herb, is, however,
that most generally grown and, consequently, most
popular. It is a hardy annual, sufficiently hardy, in
fact, by a proper system of seed-sowing and culture
to withstand the inclemency of British winters. Its
original home is not known. It has, however, been
cultivated in this country mere than three centuries.
The species under consideration consists of two dis-
tinct varieties, distinguishable by having a dissimi-
larity both in the form of their leaves and seeds.
One, possessing round or heart-shaped leaves, has
also round seeds; the other, oblong triangular-
leaved, having prickly seeds. In other words, the
remarkable fact exists that the leaves and seeds of the
plant possess identical characteristics. The harsh or
severer development of the leaves in the prickly-
seeded variety goes even further than this. It has
proved itself less profitable as a summer variety, is
the more hardy of the two, and has, therefore, been
termed the “‘ winter variety,” being that invariably
sown in the autumn for the winter and earliest spring
crop.
In the matter of culture, as the only real merit
these peculiar comestibles can possess consists of ex-
treme freedom of growth and its attendant succulency
of leaf, it is impossible to accord them too generous
treatment. Yet to insure this a really deeply-prepared
soil is not always essential, beyond the consideration
that the richer the soil is deep down below, so
much greater is its capacity to retain latent mois-
ture in uniform abundance, by which the whole is
favourably influenced, to say nothing of the fact that
the roots will work down in search of food during
arid- weather periods, where it exists, though this
plant is but of shallow root-formation. A free
highly-enriched soil is essential. As the crop is of
very quick growth and of short duration, during
summer-time, it is well to exceptionally enrich the
ground for it, even upon consideration that a suc-
ceeding crop may occupy the ground and benefit
thereby.
The practice which gains precedence consists in
growing the crop in drill-rows. This is not the best
plan to follow, as it invariably leads to the plants
being too thickly grown together; an error, this,
which cannot be too severely condemned, and owing
to which good produce is rarely obtainable. It
should be quite needless to remark here the simple
fact that to grow a plant well, to insure fine large
leaves, it should grow singly ; yet all but invariably
is Spinach grown so thickly as to entirely controvert
such a fact: It is thereby hastened off to seed,
wretchedly indifferent seed-stalk produce being the
result. Wherever drill-rows are sown, therefore,
seed should be sown very thinly, thinning the young
plants out so soon as they have each two pairs of
leaves, to four or five inches apart. Better is it,
however, to sow broadcast upon rich soil, and to sub-
sequently hoe out the plants to distances of about
six inches apart, treating them in a similar way to
what broadcast-sown turnips are treated. For the
summer crops the first sowing should be made during
such mild weather as may prevail about the first
week in February; for this first sowing, a sheltered
sunny situation. So soon as this sowing is up and
thinned out, make another sowing, continuing after
the month of March has arrived to make small
sowings once a fortnight, according to the demand,
until July, at which time it is not desirable to make
any more until the winter crops are sown, as the
plant succeeds indifferently only during the dry
months of August and September.
About August lst prepare a liberal space for the
winter crop, choosing particularly for it adry quarter
of the garden, exposed and open to such winter sun-
shine as is experienced. Though even this is not all;
the nominal or cloud-screened light of the sun even
at such a season exerts its influence beneficially. To
save the young plants from excessive ground-moisture
during the winter months, a moderate quantity only
of manure should be employed. A few wheelbarrow-
loads of old mortar, rubbish, &c., could also be bene-
ficially dug into the ground upon which it is to be
sown. For convenience of hoeing, gathering the
crop, &c., drill-row sowing will at this season be pre-
ferable. Draw shallow drills across the space to be
sown, ten inches asunder, and make sowings as near
to August 5th and August 11th as possible. Make
the larger sowing at the latter date. When the young
plants are large enough, thin them out to five inches
apart in the rows. Hoe amongst the crop periodically
at fine weather intervals; such a process is of im-
mense aid. Should any make a good growth, con-
tinue to pick for use in accordance. This prac-
tice, whilst it furnishes supplies, also checks too
robust growth, and assures in advance the hardiness
of the crop for severe weather, should it follow.
For the summer crop the most common practice
is to sow rows of Spinach between the rows of
Peas. Such space can only be occupied by a quick-
growing and yielding crop, and as Spinach is such,
the practice is good from an economical point of
view. It is as important in this case as in all others
to well thin out the young plants. or the produce
will be of a very low order.
Under somewhat the same name we haye the
following :—
FERNS. 61
Spinach, Green Mountain or Orach
(Atriplex hortensis). French, Aroche ; German, Mel-
dekraut ; Italian, Atrepice.— We possess herein a
singular plant asa hardy annual, and indigenous in
Tartary. It is a robust plant, growing rapidly to
some feet in height, the leaves of which are gathered
and used in the same manner as those of Spinacia
oleracea. ‘This variety is more esteemed on the Con-
tinent than it has been hitherto in this country.
Tt delights in a deep, rich, and somewhat moist soil,
fully exposed
to sun and
air. It may
be cultivated
both in rows
and by broad-
cast sowings.
A single row
about ten
yards long
will afford
a moderate ~
supply.
Seeds should
be sown dur-
ing the
month of
August, to
insure a spring and summer
supply up to the beginning of
the month of July. Thin the
plants out from this sowing to
about six inches apart only, to
insure a sufficient quantity in
the spring, following the exi-
gencies of winter, attention in =
the matter of hoeing, &c., being
the only further aid needed to
secure the crop. For the main
Summer supply, similar sowings should be made
during the months of April and May, for which
an additional supply of manure should be dug
into the ground. The young plants which result
from these sowings should be thinned out to nine
or ten inches apart in the row. When the plants
are well grown they give a successional supply
of leaves as they progress in height, which only
need to be picked off to be ready for use. As
the plant tends te run very rapidly to seed .
in hot weather if neglected, and is only worth
eating when the leaves are picked young and
tender, it is very essential that the regular supply
provided be regularly drawn upon and kept
down. Disappointment will follow any want of
this precaution to keep a succession of young
leaves.
ALSOPHILA EXCELSA.
FERNS.
By JAmEs Britten, F.L.S.
The Alsophilas.—In point of number of species
the genus Alsophila is the most important of the
genera of Polypodiaceous Ferns, which are included
in the tribe Cyathee. It stands alone, too, in that
tribe, in the absence of any involucre to the sori.
The Alsophilas have the general habit and aspect. of
the Cyatheas and Hemitelias, but both these genera
are readily
distinguished
from Also-
phila by the
distinct in-
volucre with
which the
sori are fur-
nished. They
are dis-
tributed
principally
throughout
the warmer
regions _ of
both hemi-
spheres, and
nearly a hun-
dred species are described in the
“« Synopsis Filicum.”
#
Ks
:
43
..
FERNS.
surfaces, from four to twelve inches long by three-
quarters to one and a half inches broad. ‘The fertile
frond is narrower than the barren one, and on a
longer stem. In a wild state the widely distributed
tropical A. sorbifolium has a thick woody rhizome,
often thirty to forty feet in length, and clasps the
trunks of the trees on which it grows, like a cable.
The simply pinnate, somewhat leathery fronds are
from twelve to eighteen inches long by six to twelve
inches in breadth. This makes a fine subject in the
tropical fernery for training
over tree-fern stems, or for
clothing any piece of damp
stone- work. 4. tenwifoliwn,
from the Mascarene Islands
and Natal, is well distin-
guished from all the others
by its compound fertile pinne ;
it has a widely rambling,
slightly scaly rhizome, and
simply pinnate barren fronds,
three to five feet long by
twelve to eighteen inches
broad. The bipinnate fertile
fronds have a longer stem than
the barren ones.
Cultivation.—As nearly all
the
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74 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
prominent, and the pollen plentiful. In select-
ing flowers for crossing with each other, it ought
always to be borne in mind that those bearing
seed will communicate their habit of growth and
general character to their seedlings. Having se-
lected the flowers to operate upon, the stamens
should be cut out as soon as they open; and
when the blossoms are fully expanded, the pollen
from the pollen parents must be applied, and the
flowers so operated upon should have something tied
round their stems to distinguish their seed-pods.
When they are ripe, the seed can be separated from
the pulp which surrounds them by washing them
in clear water; the good seed will sink to the
bottom.
The seed can be sown in spring, in a pan or pot of
light soil, which can be placed in a green-house.
>
on
one we have re-
cently put in
practice, and
which proved at
both seasons as
effective as the
most exacting
taste could de-
sire. The Eche-
veria in No. 3 is
the only doubt-
ful plant as to
withstanding the
winter: and in
nine seasons out
of ten it would
stand if planted
a little sloping,
or on edge, to
throw off rain,
72 76
Winter Planting.
Same as summer.
Same as summer.
. Same as summer. which. lodging:
? 3 re]
. Erica carnea, and small Golden Holly as on the crowns of
a centre.
. Sedum Lydium (green). and centre plant the Pp lants.
of Retinospora pisifera aurea.
. Central plant of Cupressus erecta viridis,
surrounded with the green Euonymus.
. Sedum corsicum (grey).
. Golden variegated Euopymus.
proves far more
destructive to
the plants than
does frost.
The central bed, which in summer is marked
to be planted with Tree Succulents, such as Sem-
pervivum arboreum, Sempervivum Hendersonii, and
others of similar habit, is one of the most novel and
telling features of the arrangement. The carpeting
or undergrowth to the tall succulents may be either
tufty-growing Sedums, or the flowering Mesembry-
anthemum conspicuum. Having tried both plants, we
certainly give preference to the former, flowers
THE FUOWER GARDEN. 87
seeming quite out of character with succulents, even
though the flowering plant itself belongs to that
order. The most suitable kinds of shrubs for the
winter planting of this central bed are upright
growers; not clipped to make them unnaturally
formal, but such as Thuja aurea, Cupressus Lawsonii
erecta, and golden Retinosporas; and the carpeting
may either be that of the summer or variegated Ivy,
Euonymus, Stachys lanata, or variegated Thyme.
Taking this arrangement as a whole, and taking into
account the gloom of winter, it is proportionately as
bright as that of the summer; add to this the fact
of how little labour and how comparatively few
plants are needed to so transform the bed, and the
merits of winter bedding become conspicuously ap-
parent.
The same principle of arrangement 1s applicable to
the simplest or the most varied of gardens, and what
is another advantage, it can be done wholly or in
part, according to the material at command. Even
half the beds filled in winter would certainly look
better than all being empty; for so accustomed are
we to sce bare beds at that season, that the halt
which must remain empty, if necessary, owing to
lack of plants, would not appear particularly objec-
tionable. But we must again repeat that there is
such an abundance of material to be had at a very
cheap rate as will, when coupled with the desire to
carry out winter bedding on the lines here indicated,
render it a very easy matter indeed to fully furnish
the whole of the beds.
List of Plants.— Keeping in view the first essen-
tial condition to the successful practice of this duplex
method of planting, viz., that of using in the summer
arrangement as many hardy plants as possible suit-
able for association with the various descriptions of
summer bedding plants, the list of these is placed
first.
Evergreen shrubs, in small plants for middles
and angles of beds, to relieve objectionable flat sur-
faces and dense masses of colour :—
Retinospora obtusa densa.
R. filifera.
R. pisifera.
R. pisifera argentea.
R, plumosa aurea.
R. squarrosa.
Thuja aurea.
Thujopsis borealis.
Cupressus Lawsonii aurea.
C. Lawsonii argentea.
C. Lawsonii erecta viridis.
Euonymus macrophyllus
-variegatus.
E. japonicus albo-variegatus.
Juniperus hibernica.
J. japonica alba variegata.
Osmanthus ilicifolius varie-
gatus.
And all other smail Conifers that bear transplanta-
tion well. The following are also suitable :—
Aralia Sieboldii. P. tenax variegata.
Bambusa Metake. Yucea gloriosa.
Y. filamentosa.
Y. recurva.
B. Fortunei.
Phormium tenax,
Of suitable small-growing hardy plants that nar-
monise well with summer bedders for use as ground-
works and divisional lines, the name is legion.
Amongst the best are many kinds of Saxifragas,
Sedums, Sempervivums, and others of like growth and
habit, that are too well known to be particularised
here. In addition to the shrubs, &c., here named as
suitable for use in summer—and, as a matter of
course, throughout the winter—the following may be
added as effective winter kinds :—Green and varie-
gated Aucubas for massing; variegated Hollies, as
standards amongst masses of Berberis Aquifolium, B.
Japonica, or other greenery ; Cotoneaster microphylla,
a plant most suitable for large vases, as a Companion
plant for the green and variegated Ivies, and Peri-
winkles (Vincas) for drooping over the edges; and it
also makes a good dot-plant, on a ground-work of
the broad-leaved Vinca elegantissima variegata. 'The
golden variegated Yew is another good plant for
either grouping or as single plants, and no shrub
bears the frequent transplantation that. winter bed-
ding entails as do this and the common Yew, un-
less perhaps it be Box, both green and variegated,
which are also invaluable for winter decoration. The
Japanese Honeysuckle, Portugal Laurels, Skimmia
japonica, and Kalmias complete the list of shrubs ;
but there are numerous other plants that, if common,
are in their way just as valuable. Amongst them
are Ajuga reptans purpurea, Stachys lanata, common
and variegated Thymes, Heaths, Veronica incana, and
Veronica rupestris. Here, then, is an ample array of
material with which, combined with the will, labour,
and ground, our gardens can be made as attractive in
winter as In summer.
To get up a stock of plants of course takes time,
but when once had they are comparatively a per-
manency, which is more than can be said about sum-
mer bedders; whilst, as compared with these, they
do not involve a tithe of their cost, if houses, fires,
labour, and short duration be placed in the balance,
with the piece of ground that is required as a reserve
garden for the transfer and increase of shrubs, &c.,
during the spring and summer.
To be effective at once, Sedums and other dwarf
eround-work plants should, at the winter season, be
lifted in turf fashion, and be pressed down in their
allotted positions. To this end it is necessary to divide
them in spring time, and plant out in beds of con-
venient width for paring off without treading on the
plots. In districts where Heather is plentiful, that
which has been nibbled close by rabbits makes the
most perfect setting, or ground-work, for all descrip-
tions of shrubs ; and if this cannot be had, or any of
the other ground-work plants mentioned, a surfacing
of cocoa-fibre refuse will prove of immense service by
imparting a finished and neat appearance.
88 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
ORCHIDS.
By WIiLiiam HucH GOWER.
Anzectochilus.—A small genus of terrestrial
Orchids, which, in the island of Ceylon, is called by
the Cingalese the King of the Woods; they have
slender-jointed rhizomes, and grow but a few inches
high. They are natives of the continent of India as
well as the Indian Islands, and there is little doubt
that many very fine forms remain undiscovered up to
the present time. Aneectochilus are remarkable for
the extreme beauty of their leaves, but their flowers,
though curious, are small and inconspicuous. These
plants have up to the present time sorely troubled
their admirers, inasmuch as they have hitherto
proved very precarious and uncertain in their nature,
and extremely difficult to keep alive for any length
of time. Several reasons may be given to account
for this: and, first, we think they have always been
kept in much too high a temperature; secondly, we
are of opinion that they have been treated to the in-
fluence of light too freely; thirdly, we believe that
naturally they are not long-lived, but are produced
freely from seed. To support our views respecting
thest piants, let us take into consideration where
they grow. A friend of ours who has collected these
plants in their wild hemes says, ‘‘ Anzectochilus are
found at an elevation of from 3,000 to 4,000 feet, and
most frequently in ravines near mountain streams.
Though the temperature must fall much below
freezing in winter, the plants are never exposed to
the direct influence of frost, being sheltered by trees.
The maximum temperature probably never exceeds
70°, and this can only be for an hour or so in the day.
They grow freely in a temperature of 65°, and rot
off very quickly if any decayed vegetable matter or
mildew is allowed to accumulate about the stem.
They should never be allowed to dry up, though free
drainage is undoubtedly essential. The soil in
which they are found growing is a combination of
peat and vegetable mould.”
To imitate the seclusion these plants grow in
naturally, they should be placed under bell-glasses
or in a small hand-frame. The pots used for them
should be small and thoroughly drained, the soil to
consist of one part fibrous peat, one part living
sphagnum moss, a small portion of sharp sand, and
a little finely-broken charcoal; this must not be
pressed down very firmly, and the whole should be
surfaced with some live moss chopped small. This
is important, as the Anzectochili grow so much freer
when the roots are surrounded with vegetation.
During the summer season they enjoy an abundant
supply of water, but avoid watering much over the
leaves. ‘They require but little rest, and certainly
no drying off, but during the months of November,
December, and January the supply of water must
be greatly reduced. In the month of February
re-pot, as it is best to give them fresh soil at least
once a year. Place them in a shady secluded corner
in the Brazilian House.
A. Bullenii.—Leaves ovate-lanceolate, two to three
inches long, dark bronzy-green, with three bold
stripes of coppery-red traversing them. Borneo.
A. Dominii.—Leaves somewhat ovate, the centre
tawny-yellow, margined with dark olive-green, the
principal veins being whitish. A garden hybrid,
obtained between A. xanthophyllum and Goodyera —
discolor.
A. intermedium.—Leaves ovate, or cordate when
the plant is vigorous, some two and a half inches
long, ground-colour intensely dark and velvety,
main ribs bright sparkling gold colour, netted
between with fine lines of the same brilliant hue.
Java.
A. Lowwi (correct name Dossinia marntorata).—
Leayes broadly ovate-lanceolate, three to five
inches long and two to three broad; ground-colour,
deep reddish olive-green, traversed by golden
veins, which fade to some extent as the leaves
get old. There is another form of this species
with the ground-colour of the leaves a_ bright
green, which is sometimes named A. Lowii virescens.
Borneo.
A. Lobbii.—Leaves ovate, the ground-colour deep
olive-green, midrib silvery white, with finer trans-
verse reticulations. Java.
A. Nevillianum.—Leaves ovate-lanceolate, deep
rich velvety-green, marbled with orange. Borneo.
A. Petola.—The correct name of this beautiful
plant is MJacodes Petola, but it so much resembles
Anetochilus, and is so often called by that name,
that we retain it in the list for convenience. Leaves
oval, bright velvety-green, clouded with a slightly
deeper hue, and beautifully netted over the entire
surface with sparkling golden lines. Java.
A. Ruckerii—This, together with Bullenii and
Nevillianus, has only been brought to this country
upon one occasion, and at the present time they are
very rare in cultivation; their extreme beauty, how-
ever, Should induce lovers of this family to obtain
them-again. ‘The leaves are broadly ovate, ground-
colour bronzy-green, beautifully spotted or marbled
over the whole surface. Borneo.
A. setaceum.—This is the “Wana Rajah,” or King
of the Woods, of the Cingalese. Leaves roundish
ovate, upwards of two inches long, and about an
inch and a half broad; ground-colour of a rich deep
coppery hue and velvety, main ribs broadly striped
with bright gold, the intermediate spaces beautifully
netted with the same. Ceylon and several of the
East Indian Islands. '
——
ORCHIDS. 89
A. setaceum, var. cordatum.—As its name implies,
the leaves of this variety are distinctly heart-
shaped ; the ground-colour is slightly greener, and
deep green, with a broad central band of white
tinged with gold. Java.
A. canthophyllum.—This beautiful species has
ANGRECUM EBURNEUM VIRENS.
the golden reticulations are broader.
tremely beautiful and rare. Ceylon, &c.
A. striatum—sometimes and more correctly
named Monochilus regiwm—a somewhat taller plant
than the majority of the Aneectochilus. Leaves
narrow-lanceolate, some three inches long; margins
it? is exe
broadly-ovate leaves, some two and a half inches
long, and nearly two inches in breadth, with a broad
central band of orange, clouded with green, densely
netted with brilliant gold; the margins are dark
olive-green, also covered with a network of gold.
Ceylon.
JOR. CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
Angrecum.—This isa large family of epiphytes,
but many of the species produce such small flowers
that, judging them from a decorative point of view,
they are not worth the trouble and expense entailed
in their cultivation, whilst others produce larger
flowers than any family in the order.
Angrzecums have their leaves arranged in a two-
ranked (distichous) manner, and are quite destitute
of pseudo-bulbs to
support them, so
that it is necessary
to exercise care in
carrying them
through the resting
season; for if not
subjected to a
period of rest, very
few flowers will be
produced, whilst if
it is carried to ex-
cess the leaves will
shrivel and fall off,
thus rendering the
plants naked and
unsightly.
These plants are
all natives of vari-
ous parts of Africa
or the African
Islands, and are all
found in the hottest
latitudes, saving
one or two excep-
tions, such as A.
felcatum, from
China and Japan,
and 4. funale, from
the West Indies.
The latter is a
very curious and
interesting plant,
being both stem-
less and leafless, the entire organism consisting of a
mass of cord-like roots, from the centre of which
it produces flowers. They all enjoy sun, air, and
light to the fullest extent. The larger kinds succeed
best under pot culture; the smaller ones thrive
better in hanging baskets or on blocks of wood ;
indeed, the requirements of Angrecums are about
the same as already laid down for the culture of
Zirides. Kast Indian House for all the species except
A. faleatum, and this thrives best in the Peruvian
House.
A. Chailluanum.— This handsome and distinct
species is named in honour of M. du Chaillu, who
found it when on one of his celebrated gorilla expe-
ditions. The leaves are distichous, leathery in tex-
ture, six to eight inches long, and upwards of an inch
broad ; unequally two-lobed at the apex, and deep
green; racemes axillary, about the same length as
the leaves; flowers white, and bearing a very lung
yellowish-green spur. May and June. Gaboon
and Nun rivers, Western Africa. —
A. citratuwn.—An elegant small-growing plant. The
leaves are from
three to six inches
long, oblong lanceo-
late, with an acute
point and con-
tracted base, bright
shining green on
the upper side, paler
beneath ; raceme
from six to twelve
inches long, many-
flowered ; flowers
closely set, nearly
an inch across,
white, suffused with
pale citron - colour ;
spur short, pale
yellow. Spring
months. Madagas-
car. .
A. eburneum.—
A large bold-grow-
ing species, which,
under the name of
FLOWER OF A. VIRENS (natural size).
A. superbum, the
late Mr. Ellis de-
scribes as so abun-
dant on the out-
skirts of the forests
on his journey from
Tamatave to Anta-
vanarivo, the capi-
tal of Madagascar ;
plant erect; ‘leaves
distichous, from one to two feet in length, some-
times more ; bright light green in colour; spike erect,
as long or longer than the leaves; flowers about two
inches in diameter; sepals and petals ight green; lip
large, ivory-white, tinged with green at the base.
January to March. Madagascar.
A. eburneum, var. virens.—A plant similar in habit,
but somewhat less robust than the species, from
which it is easily distinguished by its intense deep
green leaves; sepals and petals green, as also is the
spur; lip white, tinged with green. January to
March. Madagascar.
A. EllisiiitThis species was introduced by the
late Rey. W. Ellis, to whom we are indebted for so
ORCHIDS. 91
many beautiful plants from that wonderful island
he loved so well. The leaves are distichous, about a
foot long, upwards of two inches wide, lobed at the
apex, dark green above, paler beneath; spikes eighteen
to twenty-four inches long, arcuate, many-flowered,
pure white, very sweet-scented; spur straight, slender,
some six inches or more long, buff-coloured; the
petals are much reflexed, and the side view of the
flower presents a very striking likeness to a cockatoo
with its crest up. Spring months. Madagascar.
A. RKotschyi—A plant similar in habit to the
oreceding ; the leaves, however, are broader, and
aot lobed at the apex; racemes long and pendulous,
many-flowered; flowers ivory-white; spur very
long, much. twisted, and reddish-brown in colour.
October and November. Eastern Africa.
A. sesquipedale, an erect-growing, handsome species,
producing enormous flowers. Mr. Ellis, who first
introduced it in a living state, says respecting it :—
“ Angrecum sesquipedale does not grow in the moist
and thickly-wooded parts of the lower districts of
the island, but generally on the straggling trees
along the edges of the forests.” ‘‘ Itseemed to grow
most freely where there was plenty of light and air.”
“In its native state, the plant most frequently pre-
sented a starved appearance and straggling habit.
In this state the flowers were abundant, and deeper
in creamy colour than when growing in the shade.”
Again he says:—‘‘ The largest plants were found
about twelve or twenty feet from the ground, and
smaller ones often higher up; but I once found the
trunk of a tree lying quite rotten on the ground, and
Angraecum sesquipedale growing at intervals along its
entire length. The roots, which had penetrated the
decayed vegetable fibre of the tree, were compara-
tively white, short, and fleshy; the leaves larger,
of a darker green, and more succulent; but there
were no flowers.”? This latter remark proves the
necessity of a short season of rest to produce flowers.
Under cultivation, this grand species has produced
flowers as large, or even exceeding the dimensions
which its name records. Leaves two-ranked, closely
imbricating at the base, broadly oblong, about a foot
long, bluntly lobed at the apex, intense deep green
in colour; peduncles axillary ; two to five-flowered ;
flowers pure ivory-white, in some varieties becoming
creamy, measuring six to seven inches across, and its
long greenish spur upwards of a foot in length ; sepals
and petals nearly equal in size, broad at the base,
and tapering upwards to a point; the lip is ovate,
and also pointed, slightly serrate on the edges.
Madagascar.
Other species of Angraecum, most of them of
recent introduction, and all bearing white flowers,
are A. cryptodon, descendens, fastuosum, fuscatum, and
modestum, all from Madagascar; A. candatum,
erenatum, and Hichlerianum, from Western Africa;
and A. Scottianum and 4. Leonis, from the Comoro
Islands.
Anguloa.—-A genus of terrestrial plants, con-
taining but a few species, all of which are, however,
well deserving the attention of lovers of orchids.
They are named in honour of Angulo, a famous
Spanish naturalist, and produce large, stout, erect
pseudo-bulbs, which attain a height of six to nine
inches; leaves usually in pairs, some twelve to
eighteen inches long, broad and _plaited; scape
produced from the base of the pseudo-bulb, about
one foot long, erect, leafy, bearing on the summit
a single large and fleshy flower.
Anguloas like deep shade, and should be potted
in rough peat and sphagnum moss. When grow-
ing they enjoy an abundant supply of water to
the roots, and the atmosphere should also be well
charged with moisture; but it is during this stage
only that such a moist regimen holds good. After
the pseudo-bulbs are finished, avoiding any sudden
changes, the supply must be gradually withheld if
the plants are to thrive. Peruvian House.
A. Clowesvi.—This is the most robust of the known
species. The flowers come up with the young shoots,
and expand when the growth is about half com-
pleted. The scapes bear one large and Tulip-like
flower, which is rich yellow in colour, with the
perfume of a medicine-chest. On account of the
great substance of the sepals and petals, the flowers
last a long time in perfection. June and July.
Columbia. .
A. eburnea.—Less robust in growth than the
preceding, but similar in appearance; pseudo-bulbs
deep green; flowers large, pure white, in some
varieties slightly dotted with pink on the labellum.
June and July. New Grenada.
A. Ruckerii.—The pseudo-bulbs of this grand
species are some three or four inches ‘high, oblong-
ovate, deep green. The broad flag-shaped leaves are
light green; flowers large; sepals and petals rich
brownish-orange, plain outside, but the inner surface
profusely spotted with crimson ; lip greenish-yellow.
June and July. Columbia.
A. Rucherii, var. sanguinea.—Rather less robust in
habit than the typical plant, but producing flowers
equally as large. These are tawny-yellow or
greenish on the outside, but inside the sepals and
petals are of a uniform deep blood-colour. Junc
and July. Columbia.
A. uniflora—This is the smallest species of the
genus yet introduced. The flowers are very beauti-
ful, being pure white or creamy white, spotted with
pink. In some varieties the spotting is very pro-
fuse. June and July. Columbia.
92 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS.
By Dr. MaxweE.t T. Masters, F.&.S.
NUTRITION.—ROOTS AND ROOT-STOCKS.
ROM what has been said in previous chapters,
it will be evident that the popular concep-
tion of a root is widely different from that enter-
taimed by
the botanist.
To the ordi-
nary obser- Re
ver any por-.
tion of the
plant that is
beneath the
soil is a root.
But, quite ir-
respectively
of the acci-
dent .of po-
sition, the
botanist re-
cognises the
root as a dis-
tinct organ
by its exter-
nal confor-
mation and
internal
structure, by
its mode of
growth, and
more espe-
cially by the
work that it
has to do.
There are,
however, cer-
ceding organs on the one hand, and roots taken in a
general sense on the other, nor in this place is it at
all necessary to attempt to do so. ‘They vary in
form in different plants, and serve as means to dis-
criminate between different species, on which ac-
count alone they should be carefully noted by the
student, while as furnishing indications for appro-
priate modes
of cultiva-
tion they are
of the high-
est import-
ance. Gene-
rally, they
are under-
ground
stems or
branches,
more or less
elongated
vertically or
horizontally,
or develop-
ments of the
caulicle (see
Wel: Sika:
87); usually
rather thick,
sometimes
slen dier;:
branched, or
rarely un-
branched;
having no
true leaves
underground
but merely
little mem-
branous
tain organs
more or less
scales, which
intermediate
between
roots and
stems, and to
some extent
having the
properties of both, to which a few words may with
advantage be at this point devoted.
Root-stocks.—Closcly allied, indeed, both in
structure and in function to the bulbs, tubers, and
other underground developments of which mention
has already been made, are the “rhizomes” or
*‘root-stocks,”” or, as they are sometimes called, the
“stocks.” It is impossible to draw any sharply-
defined line of definition between these and the pre-
Fig. 36.—Subterranean Stem of Carex, with shoots produced in succession during four
years, and giving off roots from the under surface.
represent
leaves In an
undeveloped
and = fune-
tionless con-
dition. They
eive off true root-fibres, and therefore are often con-
founded with roots; but, apart from other distinc-
tions of minute structure and mode of growth, it
may be pointed out that, as a rule, no true root pro-
duces leaves or even leaf-scales. The root-stocks
frequently produce a tuft of leaves at the upper end
or ‘crown,’ as may be seen in a Strawberry plant,
in the Carrot, or in the common Plantain (Plantago).
The gardener’s term “ parting the root” applies to
the subdivision of the crown of the rhizome. By
THE LIFE-HISTORY OF PLANTS. 93:
this mode of propagation one or more buds are sepa-
rated from the parent stock and form new plants.
“Parting the root,’ then, is only another way of
taking cuttings.
Another form of root-stock is exemplified by what
gardeners call “ creeping roots,” as in the common
Bindweed (Oonvolvulus) or the Couch-grass (Triti-
cum repens). Why these are not strictly roots will
be understood from what has already been said.
Such forms of rhizome are an unmitigated nuisance
to the gardener and farmer. There are, however, in-
stances where this mode
of growth is very advan-
tageous, as on sandy sea- \\
shores or dunes, where
these so-called creeping
roots render inestimable
service in partially fixing
the sand and preventing
its dispersal over the
neighbouring country.
By their means, planting
with Broom,
Furze, and
in
some nurse-
ries and gar-
dens it is
FERNS. 197
where it is a common fern. ‘The variety alpina,
from the high mountains of Tasmania, New Zealand,
and the islands of the Malayan Archipelago, differs
from typical G. dicarpa in being very much smaller
and more compact in habit, and in the ferruginous
rachis being clothed with chaffy scales. The entire
fronds in this form only measure from three to
twelve inches in height, and the plant is one of the
best for the cool fernery and for an in-door rockery
of limited extent.
G. dichotoma is a most distinct
species, with
zigzag, repeat-
edly dichoto-
mously or
.even. trichoto-
mously bran-
ched _ stipes,
the ultimate
branches bear-
ing a pair of
forked pinne;
a distinct pair
of pinne also
x i arises from
“Ciplass ' ff f the base of
WLS: al aN t the forked
ren i 1) \s “te i sy
Lon UE i Ry, branches (not
OD Tess XS of the frond).
g % The segments
are never de-
current. The
fronds vary in
length from
two to four
found under
feet, and are
the names of
bright green
G.microphylia, above and
G. semives- glaucous be-
ti r : :
ita, and G GLEICHENIA CIRCINATA. neath : This
Spelunce. G. species is al-
Cunningham, most universal
from New Zealand, has from two to four cap-
sules in a sorus, and erect, leathery, fan-shaped
fronds, which attain a height of about three or four
feet ; in colour these are a bright green above and
very glaucous bencath. In its native country this
fern is known as the Umbrella Fern. Unfor-
tunately this handsome species is somewhat rare,
owing to the difficulty experienced in propagating
it, or even in establishing imported roots. G. di-
carpa has scandent, dichotomously divided fronds ;
the branches are pinnate, and the pinne are di-
vided into small orbicular segments, with recurved
margins. The capsules are about two in number,
and are concealed within the almost slipper-shaped
lobes. It is a native of Australia and New Z2aland,
in tropical and sub-tropical regions in both the Old
and New Worlds, and occurs as far north as Japan.
As might be expected, on account of its very wide
geographical distribution, a considerable number of
slightly varying forms are met with; they differ im
the size of the pinnz and the shape of the segments,
in being more or less glabrous or densely tomentose
beneath, in the texture of the fronds, &c.; but the
pairs of accessory pinne at the base of a fork are
invariably present. Perhaps G. dichotoma succeeds
best in a stove temperature, but it grows well under
cool treatment. G. flabellata, from Australia, Tas-
mania, and New Zealand, has sub-membranous,
dichotomously fan-shaped branches, and very pro-
liferous fronds, which sometimes attain a height of
198 CASSELL’S PUPULAR GARDENING.
five feet and a circumference of about twelve feet.
It is of tolerably easy culture, and makes a very fine
exhibition plant. G. longissima is a magnificent
species, recently introduced from Japan, with tall,
branched, gracefully drooping fronds of a delicate
light green on their upper surfaces, and glaucous
beneath. The young growths are densely clothed
. with very dark chaffy scales. In addition to Japan,
G. longissima is found in China, Bengal, the Malay
_ Islands and Peninsula, the Sandwich Islands, West
Indies, New Grenada, Mexico, and Guatemala.
Just as G. dichotoma is the solitary representative
of one well-marked section of the genus, so is G.
pectinata of another. It is common everywhere in
tropical South America, and is not to be confounded
with any other species. The stipes are zigzag,
branched, the branches bearing from one to three
pairs of forked divaricating pinne. The segments,
as in G. dichotoma, are never decurrent. It is
hardly so strong a grower as the species just named,
neither are the fronds so many times divided, but
they are much more glaucous beneath. Stove treat-
ment seems best adapted to attain success with G.
pectmata. 'The South African G. polypodioides is a
comparatively recent introduction to British gar-
dens: the lobes of the pinne are ovate, and the
capsules, three or four in number, are sunk in a
cavity forming a flat-topped sorus. Both on account
of the beautiful light green of the upper surface of
the beaded fronds, and the slender graceful habit,
this is readily recognised and distinguished from
any other of the Gleichenias in cultivation. G.
pubescens, unfortunately a somewhat rare plant in
British gardens, is abundant enough in tropical
America, and is a rather variable species; the lobes
of the frond are more or less decurrent, and the
branches and rachises are either naked or clothed
with woolly tomentum and scales, the latter condi-
tion being that most generally met with in gardens.
In the tropical fernery this grows rapidly, and soon
forms a specimen of great beauty. G. rupestris,
from Port Jackson and North-west Australia, has
glabrous fronds of coriaceous texture; in habit it is
more dense and symmetrical than most other species.
The reddish-purple stems contrast rather strikingly
with the beautiful rich green of the upper, and the
very glaucous colour of the under surface of the
fronds.
Cultivation.—Except for the species which are
specially mentioned as doing best in the temperature
of a stove, all the Gleichenias thrive well in a cool,
airy house in which the temperature during winter
is not allowed to descend below 45° Fahr. Even
some of the thoroughly tropical kinds succeed fairly
well in company with, and under the same treatment
as, those which require to be grown in the cool
fernery. During the period of growth very liberal
supplies of water are necessary at the root, buc
syringing overhead should not be practised at any
time. With an atmosphere fairly moist such a
course is not needed, and the fronds last much
longer than when periodically wetted. As the
species are evergreen and frequently last half a
dozen years or more, increasing in size the whole
time, owing to the development of the buds in the
axils of the forks of the branches, it is important to
prevent injury to them, and to keep the plant clear
of scale, which is sometimes a cause of considerabic
trouble, particularly in warm houses. When grown
in cool, airy, light structures, scales and other insec*
pests do not prove nearly so troublesome. Most of
the Gleichenias thrive best in fibrous peat and silver
sand ; and as allare shallow rooters, they should be
grown in well-drained pans, in preference to pots.
The stronger growers like an admixture of good
fibrous loam and pieces of charcoal. As a rule pro-
pagation is effected by dividing the clumps, but
Messrs. Veitch have been successful in raising stocks
of G. circinata, G. rupestris, &c., from spores. ae
Such suggestions are made subject to fine-weather _
periods, as it is always desirable, so far as is possible, —
to sow such main crops of seeds during fine weather,
and when the ground is in nice, dry, working order.
Sow also at a similar date seeds of Ridge Cucum-
ber, or Gherkins, and Vegetable Marrow, in pots —
for early transplanting into the open ground; also —
such tender herbs as Bush and Sweet Basil, Knotted
Marjoram, Summer Savory, &c., in pots to under-
go a similar process ; a bed of Borage being sown in
the open ground, along with such successions of
Radishes, Lettuces, and smaller Salads as may be
necessary.
Make new plantations of Asparagus, the best —
time to do so being when one-year-old plants com- —
mence showing signs of growth in their seed-bed.
Seedling Cabbages, Lettuces, and Cauliflowers,
whether autumn or spring-sown, transplant finally
or into nursery beds, according to age and size of —
the seedlings. Procure young crowns of Sea-kale —
for planting where desirable, or sow seeds moderately —
thick in a seed-bed to form plants for next spring ~
planting.
Carefully fork between plantations of Sea-kale and
Rhubarb, so soon as the young growth shows where
the rows which have been forced are. Do not fork
deeply, so as to injure the roots, but in such man-
ner alone as to free the surface of the soil and |
check seedling weed formations. Should the month |
prove a dry one the various young seedling plants
will require root-waterings, especially Celery trans- —
planted on to a mound of fermenting material,
covered over with rich soil. Having advised plant-
ing Potatoes early or during the preceding month, it
is only necessary to say here that where, owing to
the exigencies of weather, this has not been done, it
will be well to do so as early as possible during the
present.
Give especial attention to the hoeing of all crops.
Such aid is always very beneficial to growth, owing
to the process of soil-stirring over their roots, &c. —
Besides which, the season has again arrived when
it is absolutely necessary to do so, to check weed- —
growth. ; q
Make up Mushroom-beds with the materials pre- |
viously collected, as advised, and sweetened by dry- —
ing or fermentation. The only good position for —
them at this season is out of doors under the ex- —
treme branches of trees, or against dry walls, &c., —
and where, should a rainy season follow, a certain —
\ a
THE KITCHEN GARDEN.
amount of protection from such rainfall exists. It
is a matter of little importance what shape they are,
providing the material is from two to three feet
‘deep at its central or thickest part. Cover the beds
over, when made, with a sufficient depth of litter or
straw to keep them quite dry during the six weeks
or so in which the spawn is working within them.
Give air very freely during fine warm days to
Cucumbers. Witn the thermometer at 75° Fahr.
in the sun, and a warm air, it will be well to raise
the sashes high at the back. Keep all the laterals
pinched back at one leaf beyond where fruits show.
Sprinkle the plants over with tepid water about
3 p.m., shutting the sashes down close, but again
giving half an inch of air at the back towards
7p.m. Take this air off about 6 o’clock the next
morning for an hour or so; then commence air-
giving for the day, according to its warmth or other-
wise. Attend to the linings of the frames when the
crop is frame-grown. About the end of the month
it may be necessary to renew the linings either back
or front, and in doing so to damp the drier mate-
rials within them, adding a little fresh fermenting
material in process, as a slight bottom heat will be
required for some time yet.
May.
Sow during the first week in the month Dwarf
Kidney Beans, making if possible a small sowing
upon a warm sunny-aspect border and a general one
in the open quarter. Sow also successional crops of
Peas, Broad Beans, Turnips, and all kinds of salad-
ing, also a successional sowing of Walcheren Broc-
coli, Cauliflower, and Coleworts, of which the
Rosette variety is a desirable one.
The month is at once a busy and a highly im-
portant one from a culturist’s point of view. The
hoe should be freely worked amongst all growing
crops, especially those consisting of young seedlings.
This is desirable after nice growing showers of rain.
In connection with this beneficial practice of hoe-
ing, or soil-stirring, comes the equally important one
of crop-thinning, or ‘setting out,” as growers have
_ been wont to describe it. Thus in process of hoeing
the young seedling crops of Onions, Turnips, Pars-
nips, Carrots, &c., may be rapidly thinned by the
intelligent use of this handy tool. It is important
to complete this thinning out process as soon as
possible after the young seedlings are large enough
for the purpose, and in doing so use every effort to
save the strongest young plants for this purpose.
This probably is more important in connection with
such root-crops as Carrots, Parsnips, and so on,
the strongest young plants upon which possess the
most robust under-ground growth. Nevertheless
the needful thinning out of Onions, Turnips, &c.,
%
243
requires also to be done when the plants are young,
to obviate their being drawn and weakened by too
close contact too long a time. When hoeing such
crops, do not be satisfied with simply chopping up
weeds, or thinning out the seedling plants only, but
take care to hoe somewhat deeply, and so move the
soil as well as possible all amongst the crops.
Habitually cold nights with more or less frost are
experienced until the 20th of the month. It will be
desirable, therefore, to wait until such date is past,
then to plant out into their summer quarters such
plants of the following as have been sown in pots,
potted off, and duly hardened in readiness—i.e.,
Tomatoes, which succeed best against warm walls,
or fences, Ridge Cucumbers, Vegetable Marrows,
Capsicums, Chilis, &c. Take care to prepare the
ground for all of these some time before the time of
planting arrives. Too frequently this matter is
wholly neglected. Should cold winds, &c., prevail,
some slight temporary protection may with advan-
tage be placed over them. When due preparation
as above has not been made, by sowing seeds of
Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows in pots, seeds of
such may be inserted into the prepared spaces about
the same date. Make second sowings of Brussels
Sprouts, Veitch’s Giant Cauliflower, Snow’s Winter
White, Grange’s and Sprouting Broccoli also
towards the middle of the month. ‘Such sowings
will produce nice thrifty-growing young plants, in
readiness for finally transplanting on to such vacant
spaces as are formed by the removal of early summer
crops, and they will prove more thrifty than the
older ones, should any remain in seed-beds from the
earlier sowings. So soon as the young seedling Leeks
are large enough, transplant on to deeply enriched
ground, Continue to prick out and bring on Celery
plants, so as to insure a nice lot of forward ones in
readiness for finally planting out anon.
Do not omit to thoroughly root-water all growing
vegetables should the weather prove dry. Good
vegetables are only secured by this means, and able
culturists make a point of giving all one good root-
watering per week during all dry-weather periods.
Where this aid is proffered, however, let it be given
freely and well, else it will do more harm than good.
Earth up Potatoes. First of all hoe deeply on both
sides of each row, then draw such loosened soil freely
up to the sides. Immediately plants from the early
sowing's of Cabbages, Lettuces, &c., are large enough,
thin the largest ones out from amongst their kind
and transplant either permanently or in nursery
beds. he chief object in connection with all good
vegetable-growing should be to give all a free and
uninterrupted growth throughout.
Cucumbers treated as directed last month will re-
quire beyond, during this month, to have a thorough
244
overhauling. Cut away all oid ripened leaves not
needed, so as to make room for succeeding young
ones. At the same time, should a free growth be
made, and abundant haulm, with free fruiting, an
occasional length of aged haulm, which has done
its duty, may be cut away altogether. This done,
add a surfacing of fresh soil to the whole inter-
nal surface of the bed, an operation which it is well
to do. Tying up Lettuces and Endive, drawing
Radishes immediately they are fit for use, covering
over the heads of Cauliflowers forming their bloom-
heads, drawing them in good time for use, picking
Peas immediately they are ready, sweeping and
rolling walks, &c., all require periodical attention.
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.
By WiLitiam HuGH Gower.
Imantophyllum.—A genus of Amaryllids of
great beauty, now merged into Clivia. They are
robust-growing plants, with stout lorate leaves, which
are arranged in a two-ranked fashion (distichous),
and sheath at the base ; colour deep green.
These plants should be potted in rich loam, and
during the growing season an abundant supply of
water is necessary to their well-being; but when
growth is complete it should be partially withheld. '
The name is sometimes written Jmatophylium and.
also Himantophyllumn.
I. cyrtanthifiorum.—A very fine plant, with erect
scapes, longer than the leaves, many-flowered ;
flowers tubular, drooping, reddish-orange in colour.
Various seasons. South Africa.
I. Gardenvi.This is a winter-blooming variety,
bearing large umbels of tubular flowers, which are
drooping, much curved, and rich orange-red in:
colour. Natal.
I. miniatum.—Flower-scape erect, longer than the
intense deep green leaves; umbels many-flowered ;
flowers broadly campanulate, pale red and orange.
There are several varieties of this species, of which
we may enumerate miniatum superbum, and Martha
Reimers, the latter a magnificent form; but all are
good. Spring and early summer. Natal.
Knightia.—A genus of Proteacee, which con-
tains but one species, which is a tall thin tree,
attaining a height of from eighty to a hundred feet.
Its wood is esteemed for its colour, which is red and
brown, curiously mottled, and which takes a good
polish, and is extensively used in cabinet-work. It
requires the same treatment under cultivation as
Banksia and Dryandra.
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
K. excelsa.—“The New Zealand Honeysuckle.”
Leaves linear-oblong, entire, upwards of six inches
in length, and more than one inch in breadth, and
bluntly toothed at the edges; the texture is hard
and harsh, dark green above, somewhat ferruginous
beneath ; flowers in dense axillary racemés, velvety-
brown. In a young state this plant is extremely
ornamental. Northern Island of New Zealand.
Lapageria. — This genus contains only one
species, and with the genus Philesia comprises the
order Philesiacee (now merged into Liliacee). Lapa-
geria is a climbing plant, and perhaps one of the
most beautiful ever introduced to cultivation.
In some parts of England it has proved hardy,
but although it is a lover of a very cool and moist
situation, there are few places that will suit it
without protection. The soil should be used very
rough, and consist of equal parts of loam and peat. —
It is nearly related to the Smilax family, and, like
the members of that genus, must have the most open
drainage it is possible to provide.
LI. rvosea.—This beautiful scandent plant succeeds
admirably on a north wall in a cool green-house,
but if grown in a pot it should be trained on either
a large balloon or umbrella-shaped trellis ; the leaves
are hard, alternate, cordate in shape, and dark
shining green above, paler beneath; flowers large,
produced from the axils of the leaves, thick and
fleshy in texture, bell-shaped, with a spreading
mouth, rich rosy-crimson in colour, spangled with
white on the inside. It blooms during summer and
autumn, several months in succession, and lasts a
long time in full beauty. Chili.
I. rosea, var. alba.—A variety of the preceding,
from which it differs in nothing but the colour of
its flowers, and these are pure waxy-white. It is a
most exquisite plant. Chili.
Leschenaultia.—A small but very ornamental
genus belonging to the order Goodeniacee ; they are
soft in texture, with closely-set, dark green, Heath-
like leaves, and brilliant flowers; they also much
resemble the Heaths in the treatment they require
in order to produce good specimens; there is, how-
ever, a little difference necessary in their manage-
ment, for although they enjoy plenty of free air and
light, full exposure to the sun in the open air does
not suit them. During the winter Leschenaultias —
must be kept near the glass so as to prevent the
shoots from drawing, all superabundant moisture
must be guarded against, and if the weather proves
dull and heavy, an occasional dusting with sulphur
will tend to prevent mildew from fixing upon the ©
foliage.
The soil should be very sandy peat, with just
\
f
{
'
:
:
|
:
_GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 245
a small portion. ot light loam dusted amongst it ;
in potting, press the soil firmly down, for, like most
very fine-rooted plants, they cannot grow in loose
soil. In the matter of watering, follow the instruc-
tions given for the hard-wood Hricas.
All are natives of South Australia.
L. Baxterii.—Flowers deep salmon-colour.
and July.
L. biloba major, sometimes called L. grandifiora.—
A rather strong-growing species for the family, with
rich deep blue flowers. May and June.
L. formosa.—A dwarf and close-growing plant;
flowers bright orange-scarlet. May and June.
LT. splendens. —A
somewhat robust
' kind; flowers bright
June
scarlet. June and
July.
Leucadendron.
—A genus of Pro-
teaceous plants; all
natives of the Cape
of Good Hope and
its neighbourhood ;
they require the
same treatment as
Banksia,
L. argenteum.—We
give this species only.
It is a very beautiful
plant, though seldom
seen in our gardens;
it is the Silver Tree
of the colonist, and
was called “ Witle-
bloom” by the early
Dutch settlers; it is,
however, becoming scarce in its habitats through
being cut down for firewood.
The leaves of this plant are narrowly-lanceolate,
closely set upon the stems, both surfaces being
densely clothed with pure white, shiny, silky hairs;
the flowers are yellow, borne on large terminal
globose heads.
Leucopogon.—A large genus belonging to the
Epacris family, which may be treated in a similar
manner. The name is derived from the white-
bearded flowers; they are very hardy, and are
valuable for cutting, as the flowers last a long time
in water, and are well adapted for bouquet-making.
Leucopogons are robust-growing plants, attaining
a height of from four to twelve feet in their native
country ; the leaves are mostly lanceolate, hard, and
bright green ; the flowers of all the species are white,
LAPAGERIA ROSEA ALBA,
produced on axillary racemes in great abundance,
The following are the most ornamental species :—
LL. australis.—Winter months. South Australia.
L. ericoides.—_Spring months. New South Wales.
L. guniperoides.— Winter and spring. New South
Wales.
L. lanceolatus.—Winter and spring. New South
Wales.
LI. Richei.—Winter and spring. ‘Tasmania.
L. verticillatus. — Winter to midsummer.
South Wales.
New
Lisianthus.—A smal! family of plants belong-
ing to the Gentian-
worts, consisting of
handsome flowering
under-shrubs, which,
however, have always
been found extremely
difficult to cultivate ;
but whatever labour
or care may be ex-
pended in order to
bring them to per-
fection is amply
repaid by their inde-
scribable beauty.
Many of the spe-
cies are annuals only,
but LZ. Russellianus
(named in honour of
the Duke of Bedford)
is a biennial; it may
be perpetuated by
cuttings; seedlings,
however, make the
best plants.
This plant, though
included in the green-house division, in reality re-
quires a little more than green-house treatment,
yet cannot suffer to be confined in the stove; the
old-fashioned hot-bed, however, will suit it ad-
mirably during the time that it requires a little
bottom heat.
L. Russellidnus attains a height of between two
and three feet; the leaves are opposite, ovate,
smooth, and glaucous-green ; flowers axillary, with a
funnel-shaped tube, and five-parted spreading limb
of the most beautiful purplish-blue.
The best season to sow the seed is some time in
the month of March. The soil should be composed
of equal parts of light loam, leaf-mould, peat,
thoroughly decomposed manure, and sharp sand; it
should be used in rather a rough condition in all
stages of the plant’s growth. The seeds sown on this
soil should not be covered with mould, but have a
246 ,
bell-glass placed over them until germination takes
place. When the plants are sufficiently large to
handle without injury, put them singly into small
pots, using the same soil as before recommended.
A hot-bed is the best for them from this time up to
the autumn, when a warm corner in the green-
house, with plenty of light, will prove to be the
best winter quarters ; during this time careful water-
ing is very requisite, and special attention will be
_ required to keep away mildew.
When the plants are about twelve months old, shift
them again, this time into the flowering-pots, using
the same compost, and remove back to the hot-bed.
Treated in this manner they will produce their
beautiful flowers about midsummer, and continue in
full beauty for a considerable time. As the plants
decline, attention should be paid to preserving the
seed. Mexico.
L. princeps.—This truly exquisite plant, always
rare has very nearly again slipped out of cultivation.
As will be seen by our figure, it is totally different
in shape to the preceding species, and is one of the
very grandest plants known.
The leaves are ovate-lanceolate, and deep green ;
flowers, several together, on the points of the shoots;
these are tubular, some five inches or more long,
swollen in the middle, with a spreading five-lobed
limb; the colour is rich crimson-lake, passing into
golden-orange at both ends, the segments of the
limb being vivid green. It blooms during the
summer months. New Grenada.
Lomatia.—aA genus of Proteaceous plants, more
_ remarkable for the beauty of their foliage than their
flowers. They have pinnate, or more frequently
bipinnate and tripinnatifid leaves, the segments
being finely toothed, and thick and leathery in tex-
ture. They make handsome bushes, and are simply
invaluable for cutting, as they last a very long time
in the open air when used with button-hole flowers.
For soil, use sandy loam and peat in equal parts ;
drain weil.
Lomatias are rather slow-growing when young,
but after they have attained some age and strength
they bear cutting well.
LI. elegantissima.—A dwarf plant, having thick,
leathery, bipinnatifid, Fern-like leaves, which are
bright dark green above, slightly paler below. New
Zealand.
L. ferruginea.—Leaves much divided; segments
ovate, with trifid ends, dark green above, rusty-
brown beneath. Chili.
L. silaifolia.—The leaves of this species are very
prettily veined and bipinnatifid; segments wedge-
shaped; dark green on the upper side, glaucous
beneath: South Australia.
CASSELL'S POPULAR GARDENING.
Luculia.—A family of
bold - growing Nepaulese
trees, attaiming a height
of twenty to thirty feet,
and belonging to the
order Cinchonacee. On ac-
count of their great size
they are more satisfactory
when planted out in the
conservatory border, or
in the green-house, where
they succeed well upon a
back wall. They do, how-
ever, In some cases flower
in quite a young state.
The soil should be peat
and loam in equal pro-
portions, with a little
sand added in order to
keep it porous.
L.gratissima.—A very
handsome and strong
grower, having large,
opposite, ovate, acumi-
nate leaves, furnished
with stipules;
dark green above,
and slightly downy
beneath; the flowers
are produced in
dense terminal
cymes, soft rosy-
pink in colour,
giving off a
grateful fra-
erance. This
plant is in
bloom dur-
ing the winter
months.
L. Pinceana. — Similar in general appearance to
)
LISIANTHUS PRINCEPS, .
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS, 247
the preceding. The individual flowers, however,
are much larger, and the limb is pure white. Winter
months.
Macleania.—Handsome shrubs, nearly related
to Thibaudia and Vacciniwmn. They, like all the
allied plants, are extremely handsome when in
flower; but, as before remarked, rather difficult to
cultivate. For treatment see Ceratostema.
M, pulchra.—An evergreen plant, with large, alter- |
nate, deep green leaves, yee are tinged with rosy-
pink when young;
flowers on axillary
racemes, long and
tubular; tubes angu-
lar; orange-scarlet,
tipped with yel-
lowish- green. May °
and June. New
Grenada.
M. speciosissima.—
A pendulous shrub,
with ovate leathery
leaves, which in the
young state are of a
beautiful port-wine
tint, changing to -
deep green as they
acquire age; flowers
tubular, drooping,
sharply angled, bril-
lant scarlet, tipped
with yellow. Spring
months. Columbia.
Magnolia.—This
genus of magnificent
hardy trees contri-
butes one or two
species, towards the ornamentation of our green-
houses and conservatories.
They thrive in a mixture of rich turfy loam and
good peat.
M. Campbellii.—This ee species, after many
failures, was first introduced in a living state about
the year 1865.
It is described as being a fine deciduous tree, at-
taining a height of 100 to 150 feet, and producing
its very large crimson and white flowers before the
leaves appear. Although asserted by some to be
hardy in this country, there is no doubt that it
will always require the shelter of the green-house or
winter garden. Native of the mountains of Sikkim.
M. fuseata.—A dwarti-growing plant, with small
oblong leaves, which are bright green. The young
branches are clothed with a ferruginous tomentum ;
‘
LUCULIA GRATISSIMA.
the flowers are rather small, but deliciously fragrant.
Spring months. China. Now called Michelia fuscata.
Mandevilla.—A genus belonging to the Apocy-
nee or Dogbanes, containing a single species only,
and this is a very handsome plant. When first in-
troduced it came to us under the name of the ‘‘Chilian
Jasmine.”
The soil for its cultivation should be composed
of rough loam and peat in about equal parts.
M. suaveolens.—One of the finest of green-house
climbers when
planted out, but no
amount of care or
attention has yet
proved of any avail
in the efforts to in-
duce it to grow and
flower as a pot-plant ;
it should therefore be
planted in the border
and encouraged to
make a good free
growth. In autumn
the long shoots may
be pruned back hard;
treated in this man-
ner, about the month
of June the points of
the shoots will be
covered with’ their
large trumpet-
shaped, pure white,
and fragrant flowers.
Buenos Ayres.
Mesembryan-
themum.—A large
family of succulent
plants, popularly known as “‘ Fig Marigolds” and
“ Hottentot Figs,” many of which are of great
beauty. The majority of the species are natives of
the Cape of Good Hope, their natural habitats being
dry sandy plains and barren rocky places, the thick
fleshy leaves enabling them to withstand unharmed
the severe drought which surrounds them.
The generic name comes from two Greek words,
which signify ‘“‘ Mid-day Flower,” as the blooms
always remain closed in the absence of sunshine.
One species, IL. crystallinum, is a rambling member
of the family, being a native of Greece and the
Canary Islands, as well as South Africa. Its leaves
are gathered in large quantities, and from them is —
obtained an alkali much esteemed in the manufac-
ture of glass. It is known in English gardens by the
name of ‘Ice Plant,” on account of the leaves being
248
covered with large watery pustules or blisters, which
glisten in the sun as if frozen into ice. ‘This pro-
duces a very cool and refreshing effect, and hence
the plant is extensively grown for garnishing pur-
oses. .
: Amongst the numerous species of this family may
be found plants to suit the tastes of all lovers of
nature ; thus, those who love bright and showy
flowers can here indulge their fancy; again, those
whose chief delight is the tasteful arrangement of
the geometrical beds in the parterre can here find
numerous species admirably adapted to their wants.
‘1f no other situation for their culture is available
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. i Pa a
water sparingly ; in winter little or none is neces-
sary. At this season the atmosphere must be kept
free from damp, and at all times expose them to the
full benefit of sun and light, with abundance of air.
The following list contains some of the most beauti-
ful and curious species :—
M. albidum, i M. imbricans
M. barbatum, : M. latum.
M. blandum. | M. lingueforme.
M. calamiforme. ! M. lupinum.
M. candens, | M. maximum.
M. caninum. t M. minimum.
M. caulescéns. M. murinum.
M. cordifolium variegatum. M. mustellinum.
M. conspicuum. | M. nuciforme.
M. curviflorum. ‘ M. obcordellum.
= SS
— ee
= ——— SS
———s DV SS
MESEMBRYANTHEMUM Minimum,
but the cottage window, Mesembryanthemums will
adapt themselves to the circumstances, and bloom as
freely as if situated in the best-constructed green-
house; whilst those who delight in the curious can
here find structural grace and beauty ad libitum, for
amongst the smaller-growing kinds we have leaves
resembling the mouths of wolf, tiger, leopard, fox,
dog, cat, weasel, and mouse; then there are long
tongues, blunt tongues, great tongues, and soft
tongues; club leaves, hatchet leaves, and finger
leaves; bulls’ horns, herons’ beaks, and hedgehogs ;
white eyes, and golden eyes, and a host of other ex-
traordinary forms too numerous to mention in the
limits of this article.
The cultivation of Mesembryanthemums is of the
simplest.- As before mentioned, they delight in dry,
arid situations, and this knowledge should give the
cultivator the key to their management. For soil
use light sandy loam and old brick rubbish, broken
tolerably=small ; drain well, and during the summer
M. crystallinum. M. octophyllum.
M. densum. M. polyanthum.
M. digitiforme. M. prepingue.
M. dolabriforme. M. refiexum.
M. echinatum. M. retrofiexum.
M. emarginatum. M. roseum.
M. faleatum. M. rostratum.
M. felinum. M. rubricaule.
M. fibuliforme. M. scalptratum.
M. fissum. M. spectabile.
M. formosum. M. stillatum.
M. geminatum. } M. taurinum.
M. glaucum. M. tigrinum.
M, grandifiorum. i M. uveeforme.
M. Haworthii. M. vulpinum.
Mitraria (IZ. coccinea).—The only known species
of the genus, which belongs to the Gesnerads. It is
a very handsome plant, requiring the warmest end
of the green-house, and should be potted in equal
parts of peat and loam, and about an eighth part
of sharp sand. The plant is dwarf and compact
in habit, with small, closely-set leaves, which are
usually opposite and deep green. The flowers are
borne singly on long pedicles, and are tubular,
THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 249
bright scarlet, and very showy. It blooms during
the summer months. Chiloe.
Mutisia.—A singular genus of climbing Compo-
sites, which are very ornamental when trained upon
a pillar and well grown; otherwise they do not make
a favourable impression. Mutisias require a cool
part of the green-house, and indeed so little require
heat that we believe they will be found hardy in some
sheltered positions in
the West of England,
but are well deserving
the attention of all
lovers of plants, as or-
naments to the green-
house and conserva-
tory. They should be
potted im rough peat
and light loam, in about
equal parts, withasmall
portion of sand added.
If these simple require- —
ments are attended to,
and the necessity for a
rather cool air be borne
in mind, they require
very little attention ex-
cept as noted below.
M. decurrens.—This
species attains a
height of six to eight
feet; the stems are
not much branched,
and it, therefore,
should be frequently
stopped at the points
to induce the growth
of laterals. Leaves
entire, oblong-lanceo-
late, decurrent; they
are deep green above,
shghtly glaucous be-
neath, and furnished
at the ends with a long tendril, by which they attach
themselves to surrounding objects. Flowers pro-
duced singly from the axils of the leaves, measuring
upwards of four inches in diameter, and rich deep
orange in colour. Summer months. Chilian Andes.
M. ilicifolia.—Like the preceding, the leaves of this
plant are ertire, and furnished with a long tendril,
by means of which they support themselves. They
are sessile and sometimes decurrent, deep green on the
upper side, tomentose beneath, and furnished with
spines on the edges; flowers produced singly from the
axils of the leaves, about three inches'in diameter ;
soft pink. Summer and autumn months. Chili.
MiITRARIA COCCINEA.
THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.
By D., T. Fisu, assisteD BY WILLIAM CARMICHAEL.
APPLES.—PLANTING.
ie so far as planting is affected by sites, soil, sorts,
it has already been treated with considerable
-fulness. But such vital factors to success as pre-
paration of the soil, time and distance to plant, and
methods of planting, will form the subject of this
chapter, and sufficient
will be found in them
to explain the causes
of many orchards not
thriving as had been
hoped and expected.
Preparation of
the Soil.—The im-
portance of drainage
has already been
pointed out. Apples
cannot thrive with
their roots in sour soil
or water, but the oppo-
site extreme of exces-
sive drought must also
be guarded against,
and the Apple, as a
rule, will not be found
to thrive for long
together, nor reach to
the stability of a per-
manent crop, in locali-
ties where the rainfall
fails to reach twenty-
five inches in the year.
The farther south Ap-
ple-cultivation travels,
the greater the risk of
injury from drought;
the farther north, the
ereater the danger
from excess of water.
It is most important to bear this in mind in the
choice of a site and the preparation of the ground for
Apple-culture. Apples might perish from drought
on the summit of rising ground in the South, while
finding sufficient moisture half-way down, or in the
trough of the valley. ‘Whereas in the North, where
the rainfall may be double, the same site would
drown the trees, and the highest available point
could not prove too dry for them. Hence the
importance of regulating the character and extent
of drainage by the rainfall of the locality as well as
the quality of the land to be drained.
Having selected a site for the Apple garden,
250 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
sheltered if possible from the east and north, and
with a good depth of (say) two or more feet of
’ calcareous slightly-holding loam, as free from iron
as possible, the next point is to proceed to trench it
over. The soil should, however, first of all be
tested by chemical means if needful, but practically
by the last crop grown upon it.
chances are that the loam is rather too lean for
Apples. In that case a liberal dressing of well-
rotted farmyard manure may be trenched into the
soil. When this is necessary it will, however, be
better to crop the ground very widely with Potatoes,
say a row four feet apart. Early varieties should
be chosen, so as to get them up and well work
the ground before the planting season commences.
Mangolds or Swedes may be substituted for Pota-
toes, only they cannot be cleared off the ground so
early, and hence are not nearly so efficient as cleans-
ing, sweetening, and manure-mixing crops.
As arule, however, no manure is needful. But if
the ground is fresh brought under cultivation, it is
good practice to take a green crop off it the first
year, as this, by its sweetening and ameliorating
influence, hastens the growth and is more favour-
able to the health and longevity of the Apple-trees.
These first crops are not only useful mechanically,
but for removing the grosser feeding substances out
of the soil. Rank growths are not to be fostered
in Apple-trees either by the richness of maiden soil,
or by adding strong manure. For such growths
mostly run into sterility, or degenerate into canker,
serious drawbacks to the pleasant or profitable cul-
ture of the Apple or other fruit-trees.
In the trenching of the ground over either with or
without manure, the first point to be determined is
the depth to trench it. This must be largely deter-
mined by the soil itself. Supposing the suitable soil
is only a foot deep, it would be folly and wholly
injurious to force its depth, as is sometimes done, by
incorporating another foot of barren or worthless sub-
soil with the surface tilth. On the contrary, where
sand, clay, or gravel is found so near to the surface
this should be removed, and an additional foot of
good loam added to that on the spot. This will give
an average depth of two feet, which may be safely
accepted as the mean depth for Apple -trees, though
on dry sites from six inches to a foot in addition, or
a total depth of a yard, will not prove excessive.
it is important, however, that on level ground, or
sites with a regular fall, the depth should be uniform
throughout. Hence, in trenching, if the surface
tilth proves of an irregular depth, as it often does,
the subsoil should be removed, and the good earth
supplemented by fresh loam to make up the Apple
tilth to a depth of two feet or thirty inches. Before
dismissing the question of depth it may be added
If that is poor, the.
that the drier the site and the climate the deeper tha _
soil should be, the more moist the shallower. In |
Cumberland or Westmoreland a foot or fifteen inches
may suffice to grow good Apples; in Devonshire and
Cornwall a yard, in Kast Angha a yard or more, may,
not prove excessive
In trenching NE secure uniformity of depth it is
also important that the top of the subsoil should
be made as even as the surface. Any hills found on
the subsoil should be levelled down, also the valleys
filled up, and the whole be left as hard and smooth
as its quality will allow. Where the quality is
very bad, such as sand or sheer clay, barriers may
need to be placed between it and the surface soil.
Simple concrete is most frequently used for this
purpose, and it answers well. But other methods
are sometimes employed, such as mounding and
ridge-planting. By adopting this form the evil
day when the roots will plunge into injurious sub- —
soils is deferred, and in not a few cases prevented
altogether.
Uniformity of quality of soil should be aimed at as
well as regularity of depth. This comes of thorough
mixing and blending in the process of trenching.
Some, however, recommend placing the richer por-
tion of the soil a foot or eighteen inches below the
surface. The roots as they penetrate will thus find
fresh supplies, as those on the top get more or less
exhausted. But on the whole it is better to have
the soil, as nearly as may be, of one uniform quality
throughout.
Time to Plant.—Nature and experience, theory
and practice agree that. the time to plant Apple,
and most fruit and other trees, is the month of
November. The leaves are just about to fall, or
have fallen, the former being the best state for
insuring success. Vital force, never at rest, is
in November comparatively active, especially root-
wards (see the Lirz-Histcry oF Puxants, which
renders it needless to dwell at any length on the
physiology of the subject here). Neither is the
solar heat of the summer and autumn yet exhausted.
Even November fogs, by reducing evaporation to
a minimum, assist the plant to suddenly re-establish
itself, and recommence growth in its root-quarters.
The drizzling rains, as well as the fogs, are useful
to the semi-detached roots, as they are conservative
of the vital forces of the tops of the Apple-trees.
Even the unfallen leaves, under such genial con-
ditions, exert a certain semi-resuscitating force, and
tend to quicken the production of fresh roots. The
latter. are in an unusually active state in November.
Various reasons have been assigned for this, but the
planter is most concerned with the fact rather than
the causes of it. And of the fact there is no doubt
. of the tree.
THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 251
whatever.
themselves sooner than at any other season. So
generally is this known and acted upon by prac-
tical men, that not a few of those who cannot plant
their Apple or other trees in November, neverthe-
less lift them during that month, and lay them
in temporarily by the heels to lie there till placed
in their permanent quarters. The roots are merely
covered with earth, and roots and tops crowded
more or less closely together while in this transition
state. Occasionally leaf-mould, or other compost,
is scattered over the roots in order to intensify and
develop to the full the root-forming tendency of
the November season.
The chief drawback to this intermediary planting
arises from its success in developing roots, Thése
are produced in such numbers, and grow with such
freedom, as to induce a most dangerous degree of
succulency and crispness of growth. Hence, when
the laid-in trees are removed to their permanent
quarters, not a few of their best and newest roots
are broken off or bruised out of useful condition,
the net result being a loss of time as well as of
force through the laying in by the heels of Apple or
other fruit-trees in November. But by planting
them in their permanent quarters at once the full
advantages of their abnormal root-activity are reaped
without any such drawback. To derive the fullest
possible advantages, however, from November plant-
ing, it is of importance to preserve the growing
roots from being severely frozen. This may be ac-
complished by covering them with from six to nine
inches of soil, or, better still, planting them as near
the surface as may be desired, and placing a mulch
of any long litter over them to a depth of from
six inches to a foot. Such a mulch, or surface
covering, is as conservative of moisture as of caloric,
and is one of the surest and simplest means of
commanding success in planting.
Distance to Plant.—Fifty years ago or less
there were but two distances: twenty feet for wall-
trees or espalier, and thirty for orchards and stan-
dards. At times, however, and on strong soils and
sheltered localities, these distances were extended
to twenty-five or thirty feet for espalier and wall-
trees, and forty for those in orchards. The first dis-
tances can hardly be improved for the same sorts of
trees at the present day.
The tendency, however, is to place the trees closer
together. The question of distance has now become
mixed up with that of stocks, as well as the character
Thus, for example, Apple-trees for walls
or espalier on the Paradise stock may be planted as
closely as from ten to twelve feet, while the same
_ Apples on the Crab might be the better for a clear
Those moved in November re-establish.
space between them of twenty or twenty-five feet.
The same rule will hold good with pyramidal or
columnar trees. Worked on the Crab, from eight to
ten feet will prove suitable distances ; worked on the
Paradise, from four to five feet will suffice. An-
other disturbing modern element also comes in to
upset the older distances. This is root-pruning, the
purport of which is to concentrate the fruiting force
of Apple and other fruit-trees into the most limited
area possible. Trees root-pruned may be planted
almost as close again as those not subjected to this
‘latest device for the husbanding of space as well
as of force, and for the development of fertility.
Assuming that root-pruning will be more or less
resorted to, as well as dwarfing stocks, such as the
English or French Paradise, pyramidal Apples on
these may be planted at distances of from four to
six feet apart, six feet between the rows and four
from tree to tree being a useful distance for trees on
the French Paradise. Those on the English Para-
dise may have eight feet between the lines and six
from tree to tree. Vase-shaped trees or bushes
may be planted at almost equal distances, or six feet
apart each way, or six feet by four. On poor soils
good results have been reaped by planting small
bush Apples in rows four feet apart, the plants being
only three feet from each other in the rows. Ver-
tical and oblique cordons may range from eighteen
inches to thirty or even thirty-six apart, twenty-
four inches being a useful mean. Diamond cordon
Apples dc well two feet or thirty inches apart.
These form largish squares that allow of a free ex-
posure of the leaves and fruits to sun and air, and
result in fruit of the finest quality. Spiral or
waving cordons must have space proportioned to
their size. Those with an open centre a yard in
area should be seven or eight feet from centre to
centre. Horizontal cordons on the French Paradise
need not be more than four feet apart. Even on
these stocks, however, six feet is better for the
trees that are expected to last for several years, and
the double cordons should never be planted closer
than six feet, which only gives each half of the
cordon a yard run.
Planted thus closely with fertile trees, it is quite
astonishing what enormous quantities of fruit can
be gathered from limited areas.
The centre walks may either be planted with
espaliers, on the usual method or trained over the
walks to form arbours; or the arch or pyramidal
trees may be planted in lines up to within six feet or
so of the walks, and then a line of horizontal cordons
run along as a super-edging to tiles or Box. Such
arrangements have a charming effect, and no method
of planting produces so much fruit in such a short
time and from such limited areas of ground.
252
Method of Planting. — This resolves itself
into a matter of depth, diameter, disposition, des-
patch, and the solidarity of the roots. The proper
depth to plant is a vexed question, on which more
trees have been wrecked than perhaps any other.
Plant too deeply, growth is checked; plant too
fleetly, the tree is crippled, if not killed. The
tree-stem affords the only safe guide as to depth.
‘The original ground-line is clearly marked upon
it, and that line ought to be followed to a hair’s
breadth. It is nature’s sure and certain index
as to depth. All above it is stem fitted for the air;
all below it is under-ground stem or root; and there
is nothing that trees and woody shrubs cling to
with more tenacity than this natural dividing-line
between earth and air.
But as the roots seldom proceed from this line,
the average depth of root-covering may be accepted
as six inches from the surface. But the roots often
proceed from the root-stock at lower planes, and
hence the holes for planting Apples may generally
be dug out to a depth of a foot or eighteen inches.
For older and larger trees they may have to bea
yard in depth. But for young trees, say a year or
at most two from the graft, a foot or eighteen
inches will suffice.
The diameter of the hole may vary from a yard to
six feet, according to the size of the trees and the
number of their roots. Neither is it needful to make
the hole circular; a square hole will do just as well
or better. The form is of lttle matter; that it
should be wider than the largest root is of vital
importance, so as to allow of each being spread out
to its utmost length, while still leaving a clear
space of several inches between it and the unmoved
earth at the sides of the hole.
The base of the hole should be made firm and
slightly elevated in the centre, and over this base an
inch or so of compost should be sprinkled, unless
indeed the whole of the soil has been worked or
ameliorated into a root-tempting medium by the pro-
cess already recommended. .
The next step in planting is the disposition of the
roots. If the tree is young, and the roots almost
wholly in one horizontal plane, this is very simple.
A stout stake should be placed in the centre of the
hole, to which loosely tie the tree, to keep it upright.
This simple process saves the necessity for another
hand in planting. Place the tree in the hole, spread
out the roots regularly, and with a sharp knife cut
off any that are wounded or bruised, or any excess of
roots. ‘Then sprinkle over them a little fine com-
post, or the choicest soil that has been removed,
scattering the earth on to the roots from the bole
outwards all round until the whole of the roots are
covered.
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
All clods or lumps should be broke with the —
spade before placing the earth over the roots, as the —
attempt to break them afterwards would probably
break or bruise the roots as well. If all the earth is
returned the root-space will bea little higher than
the surrounding surface. But this will approximate
to the general level as time, the great consolidator,
does its work. The surface of the soil is best left
heat and insures the conservation of vapour, loose
soil in fact acting in a similar manner, though not
to the same extent, as a surface mulch of cocoa-fibre
refuse, moss, or straw litter.
Should any of the trees have roots at different
levels on the root-stock, the operation of planting
becomes more complicated, and should proceed
tentatively. The hole must be dug sufficiently deep
for the lower roots, and as soon as these are dis-
played carefully and covered, another layer will be
displayed, and so on, till the process is completed.
In practice, however, the process is at times more
difficult; the roots proceed from the root-stock most
irregularly, one here and another there, and it is
important that each should proceed from the root-
stock at right angles or nearly so. The result of
this careful disposition of the roots is that each
is separated from the other, with its own special
covering of soil, and all crushing or overcrowding is
avoided.
To escape the trouble of planting Apple or other —
trees rooted at different levels, the lower layer of
such roots may be cut off where there are a sui-
ficiency at a higher level, and then the trees may be
planted in the usual way.
Despatch.—This is half the secret of success in q
planting. The old-fashioned plan of making all the
holes for Apple or other fruit-trees several months in
advance has never been bettered. It proved a great
saving of time at the planting season, as well as
thoroughly prepared the soil; sun and shower mel-
lowing the earth into the best possible condition for
nourishing the newly-made roots.
Not a moment should be lost from the time the
Apple or other tree is out of the ground until it is
planted again; and it is here that the great advan-
tage of raising one’s own trees where practicable is
obtained. Having everything in readiness, the trees
may be lifted under such favourable circumstances and
re-planted so promptly as—to use the common phrase
of practical men—never to look behind them. In re-
ceiving trees from a distance the case is of necessity
somewhat different.
nurserymen, florists, and tree-growers lift and pack
them, that they take comparatively little harm in the
bundles. But it is when undone and dangled in the
i
‘rather loose, as this acts as a barrier to the escape of
,
So carefully, however, do most |
COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS. 243
air, perhaps during bright sunshine, or in the teeth of
a sharp cutting wind, that the most serious injury is
done to the roots. Exposure of the roots to the air
at all is most unnatural, and consequently injurious,
and every means should be used to curtail the period
of exposure to the uttermost. The roots of even the
hardiest trees, such as the Apple, are most sensitive
to injury from cold and drought. A minute’s expo-
sure to an east wind may check the growth of the
roots for weeks, or injure them for life. Hence the
great importance of expert planting.
Solidarity.—This term is used to denote stability
of top and solidity of bottom. There are several
means of securing the latter. The oldest-fashioned
and worst plan is that of treading the trees in. So
soon as the roots were covered, boot-heels were down
upon them, and the process was repeated several
times in the process of filling up the holes, while the
finish consisted of a firmer and more persistent
surface-treading. This doubtless consolidated the
roots, and also ruptured, bruised, and broke off many
of them as well.
Water is a much safer and more subtle, though a
slower consolidator than boot-heels or the tread of
the foot. Where trees are of considerable size, and
the weather or soil is dry, there is no better mode
of consolidation and of running the earth home and
down solid than that of flooding the roots home.
First of all, cover the roots all over with three or
four inches of fine soil. Then water so freely and
fully as to flood the soil over with water. The
result will be the filling in of every crevice and
encasing of every root and fibre with soil. Leave
the holes to settle for half an hour or so, and then
place the remainder of the earth over the flooded
portion, and planting is complete. This is far better
than the filling in of all the earth before flooding the
roots home.
The best consolidators are time and natural
showers. These do their work more slowly, but
surely and well. Trusting to these, the earth is
simply filled in over the roots, and neither treading
nor watering given. The roots probably lose a little
time by this mode of planting, but it is the most
favourable for leaving the soil in the best mechanical
condition for their well-doing in the end. Roots,
however, seem to be unable to bite loose soil, and on
very friable soils slight mechanical compression or
aqueous consolidation quickens ‘their ‘fresh grip of
the soil and fosters top growth.
, Stability of top is, however, as essential to suc-
cessful planting as solidity of root-run. Hence the
advice to stake before planting or immediately after-
wards. The tops of trees left unsupported become
the free sport of every passing breeze, which converts
their tops into levers for the displacement or snap-
ping asunder of every new-made root almost as fast
as the latter is formed. Henge, while freshly-
planted trees should be so fixed as to have the
power of sinking as the earth subsides or consoli-
dates into less bulk, they should have no power of
motion from side to side, till the new roots have
rendered the tree immovable in its new root-run.
Perfect fixity of tenure and immobility as far as
practicable are essential to the rapid re-establish-
ment of the newly-planted tree, and its permanent
health and fruitfulness. Root-disturbance or cur-
tailment may indeed be needed as surgical opera-~
tions in the future career of the tree, but these come
within the range of special and exceptional treat-
ment for particular purposes, and in no way affect
our present argument in favour of solidarity on the
heels of planting.
COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.
Everlasting Pea and Sweet Pea (Lathyrus).
—There are certain common forms of Lathyrus that
are weeds in our fields and hedgerows, and they are
known as Vetchlings. This comes from vetch (Latin,
vicia), “bind,” from its twining habit. Of these we
may mention L. pratensis, the Yellow Meadow
Vetchling; JL. sylvestris, the Narrow-leaved Ever-
lasting Pea; L. palustris, the Blue Marsh Vetchling ;
LI. maritimus, the Sea-side Everlasting Pea, and. a
few others. While they are not considered choice
enough for ordinary garden purposes, they are yet
very pretty in the highways, fields, and woods.
But we may remark of the Yellow Meadow Vetch-
ling (ZL. pratensis), which is known also as the Tare
Everlasting, that it was called in Parkinson’s time
“the Ramping Wild Vetch by the country people,
because it is the most pernicious herbe that can
grow on the earth, killing and strangling corne or
any other good herbe it shall grow by.” Yet in
recent times it has been recommended for cultiva-
tion as afodder. It is said that cattle eat it with
great avidity, hence it is spoken of as valuable to
be grown on very dry soil; but, owing to the creep-
ing nature of its roots, it should be grown only as
a permanent crop. This is why it is called the
Meadow Pea.
L. latifolius is the Everlasting Pea of our gardens,
and it is so named because of its perennial character.
It is also known as the Broad-leaved Everlasting
Pea. Itisa plant that grows naturally in woods,
but rarely in Britain in a wild state. There is no
doubt that what is now grown as the Everlasting
Pea represents varieties that have been greatly im-
254
proved by means of seeds. “ The ordinary form of
L, latifolius is one of the most ornamental of hardy
plants, flowering nearly ali the summer and most
valuable to cut from. The flowers are of a bright
deep rose or rosy-crimson. We have seen two or
three very fine varieties, larger in the flower and
richer in the colour, but we think locality and soils
have a good deal to do with producing these dif-
ferences. There is a white variety also, known as L.
latifolius albus ; 1t is not so common as the purple-
flowered form, and though it produces seed it is not
to be relied upon as coming
true when sown, aS many
will revert to the old type.
There is a beautiful new
variety, produced during
1884, named delicata ; in this DN us Gi.
JEr\\Mhw)
case the flowers are of a
beautiful soft pink, pencilled
with rose—really a lovely
form. The foregoing are all
climbing plants, and should
be planted against something
that they can attach them-
selves to by means of their
tendrils; and they do well
for covering stumps of old
trees, rooteries, &c. Ek
grandifiorus (the Large-
flowered Lathyrus) is a fine
form; it is very handsome,
the flowers much larger than
those of the common Ever-
lasting Pea. It is sometimes
known as L. biflorus. We
may say of this that it is the
finest of all the Everlasting
Peas. The flowers are very
bright crimson-scarlet, produced with great freedom,
and earlier in point of time than the preceding.
It does well on banks and hedges, in which it will
run freely through low bushes; also in borders on
low trellises, or root-work, rock-work, &c. While the
common Everlasting Pea will flourish in almost any
garden soil, L. grandiflorus does best in a deep sandy
loam or on.a gravel subsoil. L. californicus is the
Californian Everlasting Pea, dwarfer-growing than
the others, having lilac, purple, and white flowers,
and does well in ordinary flower borders. L. rotundi-
- folius is the Round-leaved Vetchling, from the Cau-
casus and Southern Russia. It is a small but
handsome Everlasting Pea; it is alittle delicate,
however, and should be planted against the foot of |
walls or houses, where it can trail over low shrubs.
L. Drummondit is a very distinct and showy species,
most probably from California; it is a very strong
- CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
LATHYRUS LATIFOLIUS.
grower, and probably the earliest of all the Ever- —
lasting Peas to bloom. The flowers are of a rich
cerise, deepening to carmine, and produced with
wonderful freedom. Unfortunately, it is not so
well known as it deserves to be, and consequently
not nearly somuch grown. A strong plant makes a
very free growth indeed, and covers a great space.
No garden may be said to be complete without L.
latifolius, L. grandifiorus, and L. Drummondit.
Of the annual Sweet Peas there is now a large
group. These are varieties of Lathyrus odoratus,
which came to us from Sicily
about the year 1700. There
are now a large number of
very beautiful varieties; and
during the last two or three
years such pretty new forms
as Princess Beatrice, the
Queen, Blue Beard, Bronze
Prince, Fairy Queen, Violet
Queen, have been produced.
All the varieties are so pretty
during the summer months,
and so useful for cutting
from, that no garden may be
said to be complete without
them. One very pleasing
way to grow them is to sow a
line of seeds of mixed colours,
just as one would of ordinary
garden Peas, and stake them
with sticks or supports in the
same way. ‘The seeds should
be sown in March, in deeply-_
dug, rich ground, and then
the plants will flower pro-
fusely all through the sum-
mer. Some persons sow the
seed in August, under a warm wall or hedge, where
they will come up in autumn and stand through the
winter, having a little protection if necessary; and
these plants will flower in May, some days before
those plants raised from seeds sown in March; the
flowers will be finer and more freely produced, be-
cause the plants have a longer time to thoroughly
establish themselves.
Some gardeners sow in pots at the end of August
or early in September, placing a half-dozen seeds in
each; these are put into a cold frame and kept there
until the beginning of February, when they should
have stakes placed against them, and be tuken into a
warm green-house, where they flower abundantly in
early spring, and are very useful. But gardeners
of all grades generally sow their Sweet Peas too
thickly, and make no allowance for their natural
free- branching habit. There is one beautiful
COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.
annual Pea, namely, L. sativus, but generally sold as
L. azureus ; it is not fragrant like L. odoratus. It
is of dwarf growth, and bears profusely charming
pale blue blossoms. It does well in good garden
soil.
The Seabious (Scabiosa).—The generic name
(Seabiosa) means Scurfy, from scabies, “scurf,” in
allusion to the scaly pappus of its seeds, which, on
the doctrine of signatures, led to its use in leprous
diseases. Scabies is also rendered “the itch”: this
plant being considered by our forefathers a certain
cure for that eruptive disease. The Scabious is in-
cluded in the order Dipsacacee, which also compre-
hends the Teasel—both the cultivated and the wild
varieties. The former (Dipsacus fullonum) is very
useful in that the heads are employed by fullers to
raise the nap on woollen cloths. For this purpose
they are fixed round the circumference of a cylinder,
which is made to revolve against the surface of the
cloth, and raise the nap, by their hooked, stiff, spiny
bracts; and this they do better and more effectively
than any mechanical contrivance hitherto invented.
In the clothing districts of Somersetshire and York-
shire, the cultivation of the Teasel is a matter of
consideration. This plant is a native of the South
of Europe, and may also be found wild in England,
but it cannot be regarded as indigenous, having, in
all probability, escaped from cultivation. The wild
Teasel is Dipsacus sylvestris, a stout herbaceous plant,
with an erect prickly stem, and large bright green
leaves, which are prickly underneath, and united at
the base, and often contain water. It is common
by roadsides and in hedgerows. The bracts of this
species are not hooked at the points, and therefore
the heads are not adapted to the use of clothiers.
The leaves, uniting at the base, and forming a basin
round the stem, collect water, and the country people
regard the water as a cure for warts, a remedy for
bleared eyes, anda beauty-wash for the face—hence
it is called Venus’ Bath. There is another curious
custom practised by the country people of England.
Tf the heads are opened longitudinally in September
or October, there is generally found a small worm in
each: only one is found in each head. People collect
three, five, or seven of these—always observing to
make an odd number—and sealing them up in a quill,
wear them as an amulet against the ague (Hoge’s
“Vegetable Kingdom”). Of the British species
the best known is S. succisz, the Devil’s Bit Scabious.
“It is commonly called,” says Gerarde, “ Morsus
diabolt, or Devil's Bit, of the root (as it seemeth)
that is bitten off—for the superstitious people hold
opinion that the Devil, for envy that he beareth to
mankind, bit it off, because it would be otherwise
good for many uses.’ This is a perennial; is in
bo
or
Or
flower from August to October, and it grows in
grassy, rather moist pastures, The Field Scabious
is Knautia arvensis. It was named so in honour of
Dr. Knaut, a physician and naturalist of Halle, in
Saxony. Arvensis, “field,” frequently refers to the
usual plan of growth. In addition to being commonly
known as the Field Scabious, in some parts of the
North it is known as the Great Blue Capes, or Caps,
from its tuft of blue flowers. It is a well-known
plant in corn-fields, where it is injurious; but in
pastures, as it produces a large amount of herbage
which is readily eaten by all the farming stock, it is
not so objectionable. The whole plant is slightly
bitter and astringent, and has been recommended as
remedial in various disorders, both internal and ex-
ternal; ‘‘but,” says Dr. Martyn, ‘“‘ woe be to him
who trusts on such broken reeds.”’ The flowers, if
fumigated with tobacco-smoke, have their delicate
blue colour changed to a bright green. ‘This is
caused by the ammonia contained in the smoke.
The cultivated Scabious are all hardy herbaceous
perennials; the best known in our gardens are the
varieties of S. major, of which there are tall-growing
and dwarf-growing sections, both double and single.
There is a very fine dark purple form, known as
S. atropurpurea, which came from the East Indies;
and there is a rich scarlet variety from Germany,
named atrococcinea. What are known as the
German Scabious are greatly improved garden.
varieties of different colours; all being very fine
and showy. S. caucasia, the Caucasian Scabious, is
one of the handsomest hardy perennials we possess,
and one which should be grown by everybody, if
only for the sake of its flowers for cutting, a use to —
which they are particularly well adapted. They
last for a long time in water, and their peculiar
soft lilac-blue shade is charming. It grows two
feet or so in height, forming a spreading dense
tuft, and thriving well in any open place in ordi-
nary garden soil. It is a vigorous grower, tho-
roughly hardy, and very free-blooming. This is a
native of the Caucasus and Armenia, in arid places.
It can be propagated by a division of the root, or
from seeds, as in the case of the German and other
garden varieties. All that we have named succeed
well in ordinary garden soil. There are a few other
species, such as 8S. graminifolia, the Grass-leaved
Scabious, from the mountains of Italy and Switzer-
land, which should be grown in sandy loam on the
margins of warm borders; S. ochroleuca, the Yellow
Scabious, from Germany, requiring a similar position
and soil; and S. Webbiana, Webb’s Scabious, from
Phrygia, also needing a warm border and sandy
loam. But the cultivation of these is mainly in
botanic gardens, where collections of species are
preserved.
256 | CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
Megasea (Sazifrage).—The Megaseas were for-
merly included among the Saxifrages, but they now
form a group by themselves. There are not many
of them, but they are a valuable group of very in-
teresting hardy plants, closely allied to the Saxi-
frages, it is true, but very distinct in general ap-
pearance. The foliage consists of large, bold leaves,
from six to twelve inches in length, very thick, and
usually evergreen. They flower in spring, some
earlier than others; the blossoms are in numerous
panicles, about a foot in height, and from six to
eight inches in circumference. They are all more
or less distinct in foliage and flower, and well worth
growing in summer borders and in pots; and most
of them do well in smoky
atmospheres. They are all
hardy perennials. One of
the best known is M. (Sazi-
fraga) cordifolia. This is a
very large-leaved evergreen
perennial, and it blooms pro-
fusely in early spring; the
flowers are rose-coloured.
There are some good varieties
of this. One is named pur-
purea, because of the rich
purple colour of the flowers,
and it is perhaps the very
best of the group. MM. cras-
sifolia is the Thick-leaved
Saxifrage, and is very closely
allied to the foregoing, but it
is considered, on the whole,
superior. Both are natives
of Siberia, and they are
admirably adapted for planting in the spring
garden, where they flower very freely indeed. I.
ciliata, or ligulata, 1s a very early variety also,
and may be used in pots in early spring for a
cold - house with great effect. There are several
pleasing varieties of this. JI. orbdicularis has thick
leathery foliage, and heads of rose-coloured flowers ;
it is later in flowering than the preceding. MM.
Stracheyi is a fine plant, producing large spreading
panicles of white flowers of great beauty. Being
plants of strong growth and also free - flowering,
they should be planted in a good deep loam, trenched
and well manured, and have some top-dressings of
manure in early spring. All the Megaseas can be
propagated by division of the roots.
We have alluded to M. cordifolia doing well in
smoky atmospheres. It is an admirable plant for
forecourt gardens in towns; it stands all weathers,
and as soon as the reviving influences of spring are
felt it unfolds its leaves and develops its flowers: a
charming spring plant of unusual attractiveness.
Mil
MEGASEA CRASSIFOLIA.
American Cowslip (Dodecatheon\.—The Doc
decatheons make up a small genus of Primrose-
worts. According to Chaucer, ‘‘ wort” was a term
applied to all cultivated plants. These American
Cowslips grow freely in woods in North America,
where they are known by the name of Shooting
Stars. “ They are all perennial, and perfectly hardy
in this country, requiring a cool situation, and light
loamy soil, though they grow as freely in peat or
leaf-mould, but a proper situation is the principal
point in their cultivation. All grow freely, and
soon form large tufts, which require division every
third or fourth year. The best time to perform this
operation is the latter end of January or beginning
of February, when the roots
are becoming active, taking
care not to divide them into
too small pieces, as in that
case they are in danger of
losing the plants while in a
weakly condition” (Garden).
The species and varieties in
cultivation are as follows :—
D. Meadia, the common Ame-
rican Cowslip, the flowers of
which are of a pale purple,
and fragrant, and produced
in umbels on erect, slender
stems, twelve to fifteen inches
high. Of this there are several
distinct varieties, differmg
more or less in size of flower,
colour, and height of plant.
Among the best of these may
be mentioned D. giganteum,
elegans, albiflorum, and violacewm. D. Jeffreyanumis
the Giant American Cowslip, the largest of the group ;
the foliage is long and erect; the stems are twenty
inches in height, supporting large umbels of droop-
ing, rose-coloured flowers, with yellow centres. In
rich, moist, loamy soil the plant grows vigorously in
an ordinary border, but it succeeds best when par-
tially shaded from the mid-day sun. It is thoroughly
hardy, and one of the best of our border perennials.
D. integrifolium is the Entire-leaved American Cow-
slip; being, perhaps, the most lovely of the genus,
and an excellent rock-plant. Its foliage begins to
make its appearance in March, and when well grown
attains a height of from four to five inches, sup-
porting four to ten Cyclamen-like blooms, of a
deep crimson colour. It is a perfect little gem for
a cool, shady spot.
Jacob’s Ladder (Polemoniwm).—This plant is
usually supposed to have derived its name (Jacob’s
Ladder) from its successive pairs of leaflets. It is
COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS,
also known as the Greek Valerian, which appears
to be a name of uncertain origin. The generic
name is from polemos, “ war;” and according to
Pliny a dispute about its discovery led to a war.
P. ceruleum, which is usually regarded as the Jacob’s
Ladder, is an old garden favourite, with its tender
Coe
» js
l;
7 i
()
267
that it has become a tavourite bedding plant, also for
the rockwork, and for edgings, but when used in
this manner the flower-spikes should be kept cut
away. In good garden soil, the variegated form,
known as P. ceruleum variegatum, is easily cultivated,
but it 1s apt to go off on a very wet clayey ground,
DODECATHEON JEFFREYI,
green leaves, and rather showy blue flowers, and is
widely diffused over the northern regions of the
world. It is a British plant, but abounds also in
Siberia and Northern Europe. It is a fine border
_ plant, producing panicles of blue flowers in early
summer, and doing well in ordinary garden soil.
There are several varieties of this species, and one
has white flowers (P. cwrulewm album) and forms a
handsome and attractive plant. The striking beauty
of the variegated variety is so generally recognised
41
while it will flourish in a deep, rich, well-drained
loam. As regards its propagation, it is effected by
simply digging up well-established old plants, pulling
them in pieces, and then planting them immediately
in a nursery bed of good soil. This is best done in
early autumn, so that the young plants may be
nicely established before mid-winter. P. reptans, the
creeping Polemonium, is a low spreading kind, and
a valuable spring-flowering species, with panicles of
blue flowers. This is a native of North America,
258
and it can be propagated by division and by seeds.
P. Richardsoni is a little-known but very beautiful
hardy perennial, allied to the old Jacob’s Ladder, but
far superior in every respect. It is a native of Arctic
North America, consequently is thoroughly hardy ;
and as it is will thrive in almost any soil or situa-
tion, and is also a fine decorative plant, it should be
universally cultivated. The flowers are of a lovely
sky-blue colour, with golden-yellow anthers, forming
a striking contrast, and are produced in large lax
heads. It grows about two feet in height, and
flowers in May or June. There is quite a large
group of species and their varieties, but those we
have named are best deserving of a place in gardens.
They are also very free of
bloom, lasting for some
time in flower.
The Evening Prim-
rose (Gnothera). — The
common Evening Prim-
rose is (Cnothera biennis,
a tall and stout herbaceous
plant, with long, lght
green, smooth leaves, and
large, pale yellow, fragrant
flowers; and it is called
the Evening Primrose be-
cause its flowers open about
six or seven o’clock in the
evening, and, as Parkinson
observed in 1629, ‘‘ consist-
ing of four pale yellow
leaves, smelling somewhat
like unto a Primrose, as the colour is also, which
hath caused the name.”
It isa native of North America, but has become
quite naturalised in many spots in the British
Islands, and also in many countries on the Continent
of Europe.
There is this peculiarity about the Evening Prim-
rose, that it appears to open its flowers very sud-
denly, because the points of the calyx are hooked
together, and the lower part is burst open some
time before the growth of the corolla is sufficient
to force apart the hooks, but when once this is
effected, the yellow corolla seems to spread itself out
suddenly.
In reference to its generic name, it is found in
Theophrastus, Dioscorides, and Pliny, and is de-
rived from the Greek words, onios, ‘“ wine,” and
thera, ‘‘imbibing,” because the plant to which
they applied the name provoked thirst, and a
desire for bacchanal indulgence. It was a pink-
flowered plant, and does not seem to have been
at all related to our genus Enothera. The specific
¥
WGA’
(ENOTHERA TARAXACIFOLIA.
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
mame refers to its being a biennial — sown in
one year, it blooms and perfects its seeds in the
next or second year. (. biennis will grow well
in ordinary garden soil, and is increased by means
of seed.
There are several very fine hardy perennial forms
of the Evening Primrose; foremost is @. acaulis,
a neat Alpine species, forming dwarf little tufts
of greyish foliage, which produce an abundance
of large white flowers; it is very distinct, and a
most useful plant. It is a native of Chil. G@.
eximia (syn. G. marginata) is the Large Evening
Primrose, introduced from North America some
It is a very fine kind, growing from
nine to twelve inches in
height, blooming as nobly
as.any luxuriant native
of tre tropics, the indi-
vidual flower being four
to five inches across, of
the purest white, chang-
ing as the flowers become
older to a very delicate
rose, the blooms coming
full above the toothed or
jagged leaves as the even-
ing approaches, and re-
maining in all their glory
during the night, emitting
a delicious Magnolia-like
odour. It is a true peren-
nial, quite hardy, and
increased by suckers from
the root, which are freely
produced. It can also be increased by cuttings.
It begins to flower in May, continuing till the
weather gets hot about July, when it seems to like
a rest, and again blooms in September and October.
Young vigorous specimens in rich ground would
probably flower continuously throughout this period.
The following accounts for its introduction to this
country :—‘“ Mr. Robert Stark, of Edinburgh, a
well-known lover and cultivator of rare hardy
plants, obtained roots of this when in Canada from
a botanist in the Western States of America, and it
is to him we are indebted for its introduction to our
gardens.”’ (. macrocarpa is in reality a broad-leaved
form of G@. missouriensis, the Missouri Evening
Primrose., It is a native of the dry hills on the
Missouri, and the banks of the river. It isa noble
and most useful herbaceous. plant, with prostrate,
rather downy stems, entire leaves, their margins
and nerves covered with silky down, and bears rich,
clear golden-yellow flowers from four to five inches
in diameter. It is a very showy plant, growing in
almost any soil or situation. As the seed is but
years ago.
Wi
HO. =P)
DAS
; Me) at Ww
COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS.
rarely perfected, it is better increased by careful
division, or by cuttings made in April. The flowers
open best in the evening. G. speciosa is the Tall
White or Showy Evening Primrose, and is a native
of the southern parts of North America. It is a
free-growing hardy perennial, two feet in height,
forming neat tufts composed of many erect stems,
which are covered from June to October with nume-
rous large, white, fragrant flowers. It is increased
by division, cuttings, or seeds, but does not seed
freely in this country; and it flourishes vigorously
in well-drained rich loam. In Paris this species is
extensively used for bedding purposes, for which it
is well adapted, and as a border plant few can be
found to equalit. @. taraxacifolia (in reality a form
of G. acaulis) is one of the prettiest of the dwarf
Evening Primroses, forming prostrate tufts of
deeply-divided foliage, and therefore called the
Dandelion Cinothera. The plant is quite hardy and
perennial, but on some very cold soils it perishes in
winter. Where it does well the plant is much ad-
mired, and it should be raised annually from seed.
It will thrive in almost any garden soil, but best in
one rich and deep, and it is very effective in the
rock-garden. It is a native of Chili, flowering all
the summer and autumn, and seldom rising more than
six inches above the ground. @. Youngi is one of the
most ornamental of the perennial Evening Primroses.
Growing about two feet in height, and producing a
profusion of deep yellow flowers, it makes a first-class
border plant. It isa Canadian species. G@. Drummondi
is a sulphur-yellow-flowered variety, growing a foot
in height, but smaller in the blossoms than the pre-
ceding species. It isa native of Texas. There isa
dwarf variety of this named nana, and a white-flowered
form named alba, both what are termed garden
varieties, They make excellent hardy plants.
Gi. Lamarckiana (correct name @. biennis grandi-
flora) is a hardy biennial, also from Texas. It-is a
noble plant, growing three to four feet in height,
producing many long spikes of very large yellow
flowers. Seeds should be sown every year to secure
successional plants. It flowers all the summer, and
onwards until quite late in the season.
There are a few annual varieties that are quite
hardy. The best are G. bistorta Veitchiana, very
dwarf, bright yellow, very free; @. rosea, rose, very
pretty; G. Sellowi, yellow, free, and pleasing ; and
G. tetraptera, white, very free and attractive. These
annual varieties can be raised from seeds, it being
necessary simply to sow them in the open ground.
The most notable localities for the Evening Prim-
rose in a semi-wild state in Britain are on the coasts
of Lancashire, and sand-banks a few miles north of
Liverpool; and also near the east coast, at Wood-
bridge, in Suffolk.
259
Sunflower (Helianthus) —The common Sun-
flower of our gardens is H. annuus ; the specific name
is from helios, ‘the gun,” and anthos, ‘a flower,” in
reference to the opinion that this flower turns round
after the sun. It is also named Sunflower from its
“resembling the radiant beams of the sun,’ as
Gerarde states, and not as some of our popular poets
have supposed, from its flowers turning to face the
sun, which they never do.
There are annual and perennial varieties, and of
the former the most generally grown are the
Californian, H. caiifornieus, a fine tall-growing
variety ; the Dwarf, also yellow, and about three feet
high; the Leviathan and the new Double Orange,
both very fine garden varieties, the former single
and very large; and the common Tall Sunflower,
which came to us years ago from South America.
The common Sunflower, apart from its ornamental
character as a conspicuous object in gardens and
shrubberies, is also a much more important plant
than it is generally ‘supposed to be. In France, the
leaves are used for forage for cattle, which are said to
eat them with great relish and avidity. The stalks
make an excellent fuel, and yield a large quantity of
potash after they are burned; or, if not wanted for
that purpose, the ashes may be used as manure by
sowing them over the land, or mixing in the manure
heap. In Portugal the seeds are used to make a
wholesome and nutritious bread, and, when roasted,
they form an excellent substitute for coffee; in some
parts of the Continent a kind of bowilli (boiled or
stewed meat) is made of them, which serves as food
for infants. They also yield by expression a fixed
oil, little if at all inferior to olive oil, which is used
in some parts of Europe both for burning in lamps
and other domestic purposes to which olive oil is
apphed, and for making soups. As food for poultry
they have been found to be very nutritious. One
acre will produce fifty bushels of seed, yielding fifty
gallons of oil, and about 1,500 lbs. of oil-cake; and
the stems will yield about 10 per cent. of potash
(Hogg’s “ Vegetable Kingdom”). It need scarcely
be stated that the Sunflower is a very accommodating
plant, but the richer and better the soil, the finer the
flowers. Of late years the Sunflower has become
very popular, the prevalence of what are termed
zesthetical ideas having given a great impetus to
its culture. The tall-growing varieties, both the
double and single, are very suitable for the backs
of flower borders, and the verges of shrubbery
borders.
There are several very fine perennial species and
varieties of Sunflowers well worthy a place in the
garden, some double and some single-flowered—ahl
growing freely and flowering abundantly. H.angusti-
Solius, the Narrow-leaved North American Sunflower,
260 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
HELIANTHUS MULTIFLORUS FLORE-PLENO. .
is a rare and interesting species, remarkable for being
the dwarfest of the perennial group, producing a tuft
of spreading, dark green, glossy leaves, and slender
stems two and a half feet high, bearing numerous _
flowers one and a half inches across, arranged in ©
a long leafy raceme. This species flowers abun-—
dantly in September and October. H. multifiorus, —
the Perennial Single Sunflower, or the Many-—
Z
t
THE PINE-APPLE. 261
flowered Sunflower, is a vigorous-growing peren-
nial, four feet in height, producing large deep
yellow flowers from June to October, very useful
for cutting, and one of the best of our autumn-
flowering perennials, either for massing or for
single specimens in the border, and it is one of
the few plants that will thrive in a smoky atmo-
Sphere. H. muiltiflorus flore-pleno is a double
variety oftener met with than the single form, and
produces large double yellow flowers of a hand-
some character. A variety named maximus, the
Great Perennial Single Sunflower, is an enormous-
growing variety, attaining the height of six to nine
feet, and producing immense golden-yellow flowers,
almost as large as those of the annual species.
Other useful species are H. decapetalus, H. occiden-
tale, and H. orgyalis, but they are not nearly so much
grown as the forms of H. multiflorus, which are
decidedly the best. H. rigidus, better known as
Harpalium rigidum, is one of the best of our autumn-
flowering perennials ; the flowers are very large and
of a bright golden-yellow colour, with a striking
black disc. It grows about three feet in height,
flowers very fully, and formsa very attractive object.
It is a native of North America, and has roots
which spread about very much. Like all the peren-
nial Sunflowers, this does well in ordinary borders,
in which, from its rapidly-spreading habit, it will
require annual division.
The forms of H. multiflorus are being much grown
by gardeners, as they are found so useful for cutting
from for decorative purposes, and yellow flowers
being in much demand at the present time, their
growth is deserving of encouragement on this ground
also.
The Jerusalem Artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus) is
a Sunflower. Artichoke isa name which Diez de-
rives from the Arabic Ardischauki, “ Earth-thorn,”’
and which was introduced with the plant by the
Moors of Spain. This particular plant is called
Artichoke from the flavour of its tubers, and Jeru-
salem, which has puzzled many, from the Italian
Girasole, “ Turn-sun,”’ that is, a sun that turns about.
Unlike the other Sunflowers, it very seldom blos-
soms; it will sometimes flower in this country,
after a short dry summer like that of 1884, when
several instances of its doing so are recorded.
There is not sufficient heat in our climate to mature
the seeds: but M. Vilmorin, of Paris, states in the
Lon Jardinier that he has obtained seeds and raised
several varieties. This species produces tubers in
the soil, and they are baked, roasted, boiled, and
served up with milk and butter, and in various
other ways.
It is found wild in Upper Canada and the United
States.
TPE ein Pee Pi i.
By Wi.iu1am CoLteman.
CULTIVATION (continued).
Resting.—By the beginning of August, the ma-
jority of the plants will be firm, stocky and well
matured, with plenty of white, healthy roots, working
round the insides of the pots, and through the
drainage. The growing season, if they are to start
into fruit at the time we have named, will be nearly
over, and the next two months will be devoted toa
gradual reduction in the supply of heat and water.
By gradual it must be understood that the transition
from active growth to comparative rest must be so
steady as to prevent the possibility of a premature
check, which may lead to the most promising plants
throwing up their fruit in mid-winter, when, in the
case of Queens, the labour of the past season would
be thrown away. Therefore the supply of water to
the roots, and in the air of the house, must be regu-
. lated by the state of the weather, and the condition of
the bed. If the chilly, foggy nights which charac-
terise the month of September prevail, the reduced
supply of water to the roots and in the atmosphere
must be given early in the day; plenty of air during
the hours of sunshine will then carry off superfluous
moisture, and an external covering of some kind,
while economising fire-heat, will, to a great extent,
prevent the condensation of moisture under the glass
at a time when drip will be most hurtful to the plants.
Unless the weather is very bright and fine in October,
no more water must be given tothe roots; but if, on
examination, the lower part of the plunging-bed is
found to be at all dry, it will then be prudent to
water between the pots until the whole of the tan
is moderately moist, and capable of feeding instead
of robbing the roots during the season of rest.
By the end of October the bottom heat should be
brought down to about 75°, and the day and night
temperatures proportionally low—say, 65° as the mini-
mum, and 75° as the maximum—with air whenever
the sun raises the house to 70°. Through November
and December a further all-round reduction of 5°
may be made; but lower than thisit will not be safe
to go, unless the weather is very severe, when a fall
of a few degrees through the night, and on dark
days, will be preferable to sharp firing, which will
render a corresponding supply of moisture absolutely
necessary to counteract its parching influence. Ifall
has gone well, the plants will not require a drop of
water through December; neither must the fire-
heat, which is often necessary at this period, be so
severe as to rob the plants and pots of the stored-up
moisture, which will soon be again set in motion. To
counteract its influence on the roots, the watering of
the old tan may be repeated, and when it has thrown
262
off a little of the vapour, a quantity cast up with a
hand-fork round the sides and over the tops of the
pots will keep them quite safe until early in the new
year, when they will be transte:red to other quarters
as “Fruiting Plants.”
Fruiting Plants.—Assuming that the set of
plants under treatment occupy the hip-roofed house
(Fig. 2), and that the lean-to (Fig. 1) is the struc-
ture into which they are to be taken for the comple-
tion of their course, in order to have the bed ready
for them by the first week in January, it will be ne-
cessary to go back to the beginning of December to
commence operations with the plunging material for
giving a retaining bottom heat. If leaves can be
obtained, well harvested and well worked, there is
something about them which places them before tan
in the estimation of many for swelling and finishing
off the fruit of the Pine. But this part of the subject
having been touched upon in a previous chapter, it is
only necessary to say the material, be it leaves or tan,
should be placed in the pit in time for the heat,
which invariably revives after disturbance, to settle
down to a temperature averaging from 85° to 90°,
when plunging may be commenced without further
delay. As the plants, which have been some ten or
twelve weeks at rest, will now be divided into two
sections, the first to start into fruit without making
a growth, and the second to make a growth before
they start, and so forma succession, some discrimina-
tion and judgment will have to be brought to bear
upon the selection of the first set of plants.
First Section.—As a rule, plants having the
thickest stems, which have shown the greatest dis-
position to throw out suckers, and with a number of
narrow, sharply-pointed leaves in their centres, will
be found the most certain starters. All of them,
even when selected by an experienced person, may
not throw up their fruit at once; but the majority
will do so, and any that miss can be taken out, and
replaced with others from the second set, which,
contrary to expectations, may afterwards start with-
out making a growth. For very early work, and to
give a supply of ripe fruit in May and June, the time
when Pines are in the greatest demand, and as a
natural consequence of most value, imported fruit
being out of the market, Queens will be the least
likely to disappoint, as they are most sensitive, and
swell and ripen off their fruit quickly. A few plants
of other good summer kinds, as Rothschilds, Fairy
Queens, and the always excellent Smooth-leaved
Cayenne, may also be taken in for growing fruit,
which will form a link between the first and second
batches, but Queens should form the majority.
Formerly it was the custom to tie up the leaves as
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
often as the plants were moved; but this barbarous
treatment has been given up by all good Pine-growers,
and very wisely too, as plants of any age, when
allowed to take their natural form of growth, cannot
be so treated without receiving considerable injury,
and when they arrive at the age of fruiters, with
short, stiff, inflexible leaves radiating from the
centre, the trouble of tying up is a considerable
addition to the labour of removal. When a sufficient
number of plants have been marked for removal, a
few of the lower leaves must be stripped from the
stems, and all loose inert soil removed as they are
taken out of the bed, preparatory to top-dressing with
pieces of rough fibrous loam, which must be firmly
rammed round the collars to keep the plants steady,
and to prevent water from hanging in suspension
about the surface roots.
Plunging.—Having determined on the distance
the plants are to be placed apart—two feet to two
feet four inches will not be too much—let each plant
be plunged with the side which formerly grew to the
light again facing the sun. The depth in the bed
must be regulated by circumstances, created by the
quantity and condition of the plunging material :
for instance, if the heat is obtained from a heated
chamber entirely under control and there is no
danger of its rising much above 85°, the rims of the
pots at the back may be on a level with the tan,
as there will be no fear of burning; but if all the
heat is derived from tan-or leaves, then loose or
shallow plunging will be the safest plan, until such
time as the heat is a little below 90°, when the
plunging material may be pressed closely about the
pots. When it is borne in mind that all the valuble
roots are coiling round the insides of the pots, and
through the drainage, and that the most important,
in fact the most vital point will be their preservation
in a fresh, healthy, and very shortly a most active
state, too much care and watchful attention cannot
be devoted to the regulation of bottom heat.
When all the plants have been plunged, they must
be supplied with water of a stimulating nature at a
temperature of 80°, and in sufficient quantity to
moisten every particle of the soil. Atmospheric
moisture in moderation at first (as too much will start
some of the plants into growth) must be provided by
damping the paths and walls, but not the surface of
the bed. Later on this may be done; but for the
present the excitement must be due to bottom heat,
and a moderate quantity of water about the house.
Monthly Treatment.—The temperature dur-
ing this first month may range from 60° at the
beginning to 65° at the end by night, and 65° to 79°
by day, when fire-heat is the only moving power.
THE PINE-APPLE. 263
On bright sunny days, which sometimes prevail in
January, the maximum may touch 80°, air being
given when the glass registers 76°.
February.—It the past month has been bright and
fine, the plants may now have another watering with
weak guano-water, or diluted liquid manure, at a tem-
perature of 80°. Atmospheric moisture, still in mode-
ration, should be provided by damping the paths and
walls and filling the evaporating pans with diluted
liquid. When feeding Pine plants, it is a good plan
to vary the liquid as much as possible, where animal
as well as artificial manures can be obtained.
Manure-waters of all kinds should be quite clear
when used. The night temperature may be steadily
raised from 65° at the beginning to 70° at the end
of the month, and that by day from 70° to 76°.
When the latter point is reached, give sufficient air
to allow a rise to 80° under the influence of sunshine.
Close early to economise fire-heat, and run down the
blinds at night. If the plants are satisfactory, some
of them will begin to show fruit by the end of the
month, when a little more water may be given with
advantage, and the surface of the bed syringed on
bright afternoons. If the bottom heat varies, take
steps to reduce or raise it to about 85°; but be careful
as to the disturbance of fermenting beds, as sun-heat
in March sometimes causes a sudden rise of several
degrees, which might be hurtful to the plants at a
time when all their energy is needed to force the
fruit well out of the foliage, and aid in the rapid
development which will take place during the next
two months.
March.—Karly in this month, all the plants which
have responded to the autumn rest will be throwing
up fruit, and suckers will be starting from the stems
of the Queens and other free kinds. As stock of these
is always plentiful, not more than two of the best
need be kept to grow on. All the others, as well as
the gills, which form just below the fruit, should be
removed as soon as they can be seen, otherwise they
will take away the strength which should be thrown
into the fruit.
As this is a very trying month, a portion of the
day often being very bright, with sharp piercing
winds, followed by cold, arid nights, the minimum
and maximum temperatures from fire-heat should
not be much increased; but sun-heat must be
husbanded to the fullest extent, by closing in time
to run up to 90° for a short time, with atmospheric
moisture, which is best produced by syringing the
walis and floors and occasionally the surface of the
bed. Overhead syringing must not be indulged in
until after the flowers on all the pips have set.
Cross - fertilisation.—If cross-fertilisation is
contemplated, the time is now at hand, and early,
and adda thin surfacing of tan or leaves.
spring-started plants will be found the best, as the
seeds will be ripened under the most favourable
conditions which this climate affords. Should the
month be unusually bright and dry, watering with
stimulating liquid must be more frequent; but of
two evils it is best to err on the side of dryness,
provided the soilis kept in a fairly moist growing
condition and atmospheric moisture is liberally’
supphed. To counteract the rapid escape of heat
and moisture, the blinds should be let down
during the hours of darkness, when the front
brick ventilators may be opened to let in a chink
of fresh air.
April:—Under the favourable influence of mild,
gleamy days, the night temperature should range
from 75° at banking time to 70° in the morning, and
the maximum from 80° to 85° by day. Air must be
given at the apex when the thermometer touches
78°, and steadily increased to an extent that will
allow the mercury to rise to 85°. When it begins
to decline, reducing must also have timely attention,
as rapid forcing with plenty of solar heat and
moisture on fine afternoons is in every way prefer-
able to early firing to catch the night heats. Imme-
diately after the house is closed, the plants should
be regularly dewed overhead with water at a
temperature of 80°, and a little thrown into the
axils of the lower leaves will feed the stem-roots;
but the latter practice, while keeping them moist,
should not be carried to an extent that will load
them with water and so increase the size of the
crowns to the detriment of the fruit. As the latter
are now swelling fast, neat sticks firmly placed in
each pot and rising a little above the tops of the
crowns will be needed as supports to keep them
upright. In lean-to houses, the fruit is apt to lean
with the plant to the south, when the crown gets
drawn out of the perpendicular.
May.—Any fruits that were not tied up last month
will now require attention, as nothing looks worse
than a crooked crown. When all have been tied up,
examine the beds; if dry, water between the pots,
using soot or lime-water where worms have found
an entrance. If free from these pests, clear diluted
liquid is preferable to pure water, as it throws off
ammonia at a time when stimulants in moderation are
constantly needed. If the fermenting material has
left the sides of the pots, replace it, set the pots level
Gentle
stimulants at every watering will do good service,
until the most forward fruits have attained their
size, when root-feeding must be discontinued. Some
Pine-growers lay great stress on certain animal
manures, such as deer or sheep dung; but for all
round, general purposes there is nothing better than
weak solutions of guano, and the contents of the
264
ordinary liquid-manure tank, into which the drainage
from stables, cow-sheds, or the frame-ground is con-
veyed. These should be used alternately, as plants,
like animals, benefit by change of diet.
If the weather is genial and bright, the Pines will
now make very rapid progress, as the houses can
be ventilated early, and have a moderate supply
of air through the early part of the day, while the
declining sun will not be so hot as to delay closing
in the afternoon. As sun-heat with an abundance of
atmospheric moisture can then be bottled up and kept
for some hours before fires are needed, the tempe-
rature may range about 90° with perfect safety ;
indeed, where time is an object, it is no uncommon
thing to run Pine-stoves up to 100° on bright sunny
afternoons in May.
June.—lf any of the fruit commenced colouring at
the end of last month, the proper course would have
been to remove them toa drier house to ripen up ; but
as the majority would not be so far advanced, June
may be taken as the great ripening month. Therefore,
when the lower tips of the fruit assume a lighter
colour, the flavour must have full consideration, as
fine Pines deficient in flavour are of little value.
This important feature can be obtained in two ways,
either of which must be decided upon by the purpose
for which the fruit has been grown. If for an early
market, then simultaneous maturity, or what is
termed a glut, being no impediment, the whole house
may be treated to more air with plenty of heat, and
less moisture both in the atmosphere and the soil.
If, on the other hand, the Pines are wanted for pri-
vate use, then the treatment, though practically the
same in its application, must be different in its result,
as a constant supply of ripe fruit extending over the
longest possible period will be the object held in
view. ‘To secure this, and to give late starters, and
the few later kinds, which were recommended for
forming the connecting link, the best possible treat-
ment, all the early Queens should be lifted out
bodily as they begin to change, and placed in a dry,
light, airy house, where they can have the benefit of
a partially-spent bed for plunging them in; thus
doing away with the necessity of watering, and
securing sufficient heat to avoid a check from cold.
Another advantage which attends the early removal
of ripening fruit from a hot, moist stove, is the
increased length of time which can be devoted to
the ripening process, and the superior condition of
fruit so ripened for keeping after it is fit for use.
Retarding and Keeping the Fruit.—In the
absence of a suitable compartment for this purpose,
a Vinery from which ripe Grapes are being cut
answers very well, as partial shade from the Vines
protects the bright golden fruit from the direct rays
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
of the sun, and the free circulation of dry warm air,
so essential to the Grapes, is just what is needed for ~
ripening and retarding as well as giving high flavour
to the Pines.
When the season is further advanced, and settled
summer weather has set in, it will be no longer
necessary to use a house for retarding purposes, as
Pines can be ripened up and kept in an airy Grape-
room, where they will remain in good condition for
several weeks. In this way Pines can frequently be
kept a month or six weeks longer than under the
best management in the fruiting-house.
Second Section of Plants.—After the first
set of plants were drawn for starting in January,
those left behind, as being the least likely to start
without first making a growth, should be re-arranged
in the old bed, where they can be kept quiet during
the succeeding two months. In the meantime, a span-
roofed house being at command, preparations should
at once be taken in hand for getting the fermenting
material well worked and settled down into a steady
bottom heat of 85° to 90° ready for their reception
by the end of February. As was anticipated, a
portion of these plants will make a growth before
they start, and so prolong the supply, by producing
the finest Queens of the season, while the Cayennes
and Rothschilds will carry it on from the end of May
until the beginning of December. The preparation
of the plants and their treatment will, in almost every
particular, be precisely the same as that recommended
for the first section. They will, however, as may be —
readily understood, require less fire-heat, more air
and atmospheric moisture through the early stages,
and a fair proportion of them being Cayennes and
Rothschilds, two varieties which always take more
water than Queens, a more liberal supply of this
element in a stimulating form will also be necessary.
Should any of these plants miss fruiting and con-
tinue growing, in defiance of all the checks that may
be brought to bear upon them, the best plan is not to
throw them away, 1n conformity with an old custom,
but to keep them on the high-and-dry principle until
a newly-prepared plunging-pit, with a bottom heat of
90°, has been made ready for the reception of a set
of suckers or successions, and to cut them off at the
base close to the soil. With one stroke of the knife
they will again be reduced to the condition of very
large suckers, ready for potting and treating in the
usual way, except that the pots should be from nine
to ten inches in diameter, as they will not receive
or require another shift into a larger size. Having
stripped off a few of the lower leaves, they should be
firmly potted in rough fibrous loam, and plunged up
to the rims in the hottest part of the bed, where they
can be pretty closely shaded from bright sunshine,
THE PINE-APPLE. 265
and havea slight syringing daily until they are fairly
rooted. When treated in this way, every particle of
the soil being fresh and sweet, they very soon throw
out an abundance of active roots, and become stout,
vigorous plants, capable of finishing excellent fruit
within a few months, as the check causes every one
of them to “show ’”’ in a few weeks after the cutting
down.
Summer Suckers.— In order to completely dis-
pose of the first set of plants, which have been carried
on through the different stages of their growth, from
the sucker to the ripe fruit, it may not be out of place
to return to the fruiting-house, where they were left
standing as stools, with one or two suckers on each,
ready for detachment. ‘The manipulation and pot-
ting of suckers having been discussed, it is only ne-
cessary to say that the general move forward to fill up
the house they have occupied will make room in the
sucker-pit for their reception; and, as the majority
of them will be large and well ripened at the base,
they will form the first batch for growing on through
the winter. and shifting into truiting-pots early in
the spring. When all the best of the suckers have
been taken off and potted, the shy kinds, with which
the reader is now well acquainted, will require special
treatment to set the latent or dormant buds in mo-
tion, as well as to bring forward any small suckers
on the Cayennes, which may be considered too small
for placing in single pots. With some it is the prac-
tice to water the old stools thoroughly, and plunge
them in a strong bottom heat to force the growths
forward; but space at command, as a rule, being
limited, it is in several ways advantageous to shake
them out, and re-pot in smaller pots, as the fruiting-
sized pots are then set at liberty. The old roots are
stimulated by being placed in new compost ; feeding
liquid can be more frequently supplied, and a great
number of stools can be plunged with more ferment-
ing material between them than will be the case
when the large, unwieldy fruiting-pots are retained.
Having shown that the first set of plants, which
ripen their fruit in May and June, furnish suckers
that will supply the earliest fruiters twenty months
later, it follows that the second batch, which ripen
their fruit through August and September, will give
the suckers that will succeed them. But as Queens
cannot be had in first-rate condition through the
winter months, other kinds, of which little has yet
been said, must be brought forward, for giving the
late winter and early spring supply.
Winter and Spring Pines.—Reference to the
descriptive list of varieties will show that the Smooth
Cayenne, Black Jamaica, Lord Carington, Beatrice
Lambton, and Rothschild are considered suitable
kinds for giving a supply of winter and spring fruit ;
but the last-named being better adapted for autumn
and early winter use, and Beatrice Lambton being
a very large variety, more suitable for special re-
quirements than general private use, the first three
stand unrivalled for giving high-class Pines, which
are always good, and can be kept for a considerable
time after they are ripe. Two sets of these should
be grown where space admits, and, to treat them pro-
perly, separate compartments should be used; the
warmest and driest being devoted to the Jamaicas
and Caringtons, the coolest and most airy to the
Cayennes.
It is now an acknowledged fact that houses of
moderate dimensions are preferable to large ones
for the growth of Pines in general, and for winter
fruit in particular. The facilities afforded by small
houses or compartments for covering up the glass at
night must not be reckoned amongst the smallest
advantages gained by keeping the different kinds
of winter Pines under distinct and, as a matter
of course, proper treatment. Therefore, assuming
that the lean-to house, which is better than the full-
span roof for winter culture, is divided into two
equal parts, with an abundance of piping for giving
top and bottom heat, the pits should be prepared
for the successions—that is, the full-sized autumn-
rooted suckers, by the time the general stock is ready
for shifting into fruiting-potsin February. No diffi-
culty is experienced in getting a sufficient number of
Jamaica suckers for potting up in August; but with
the always shy Cayenne matters stand in a more un-
favourable light, consequently propagation from dor-
mant eyes, crowns, and gills may have been going on
for a year or two before plants raised from such
small pieces can be considered large enough to be
treated as good suckers in the autumn. Should this
be the case, strong fruiting plants, carrying perhaps
one or two really good suckers, may be divested in
October before the fruit is ripe. But instead of the
stock so obtained being kept cool and dry through
the winter months, a compact span-roof pit (Fig. 5),
some five degrees warmer than the general sucker-
pit, will be found suitable for growing them steadily
on in six-inch pots until they are well rooted and fit
for shifting with the others in February, or it may be
early in March. Late suckers never root so quickly
and freely as those usually taken in September, and
shifting before they are ready is quite as bad as
allowing the balls to become matted.
With the bottom heat standing at 85°, a sufficient
number must be selected, and potted precisely as
the Queens —the Jamaicas into ten-inch and the
Cayennes into twelve-inch pots, the two sizes in
which they will remain until the fruit is ripe.
Their treatment through the spring will not differ
266 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
from that recommended for Queens; but they will
require a little more room after the beds have been
renovated in the autumn, and the Cayennes all
through their treatment will take more water and
atmospheric moisture than would be good for Queens
and Jamaicas. Having elevated all the plants well
up to the light, they must have as much water and
moisture as will keep them steadily progressing
through the winter. To secure this, the bottom heat
should range from 75° in November to 80° by the
end of January, and that of the house from 60° at
night to 70° by day. To economise fire and husband
moisture, so very importaut in the maintenance of
a humid, growing atmosphere, the covering must not
be neglected.
In twelve months from the time the suckers were
potted, they will be large enough for fruiting; but
as this cannot be secured without a spring growth,
give more top and bottom heat through the early
months, followed by a decided check to the Jamaicas
in June, and a little drier treatment to the Cayennes;
nearly all the plants will be ready to throw up from
July to the end of September.
It invariably happens that the selection of a given
number of suckers for a special purpose leaves a
weaker set behind, and as they will require more
time than the first lot to grow into a fruiting state,
the one-shift system is not so well adapted to their
culture. Many of these plants having been raised
from dormant buds and gills of the preceding spring,
the pots in which they are wintered will not exceed
five inches in diameter; and, although the top and
bottom heats have been favourable to constant pro-
gress, the pots used for the February shift cannot
well exceed eight inches in diameter. In these,
constantly plunged in a brisk bottom heat of 80°,
with their heads close to the glass in the span-roof
pit, they soon fill the small stratum of soil with roots,
and are fit for the final shift into ten to eleven-inch
pots, which are quite large enough for winter-fruiting
Cayennes and Jamaicas, by the end of April. The
object being to grow this set of plants from the
sucker to the fruit without a check, a close, compact
pit, with full command of top and bottom heat, must
be available, otherwise the attempt to swell the fruit
through the winter months will end in disappoint-
ment, and the entire loss of a number of plants, to
which a great deal of time and patience has been de-
voted. Unless the young practitioner has a fair stock
of plants to fall back upon, his attempt at starting
Pines after September should be confined to a few
Jamaicas and Caringtons at first, as there is no diffi-
culty in obtaining suckers of these varieties, and
they can be induced to swell off excellent fruit in
nine-inch pots, provided they are well fed when water
in winter is required.
From the foregoing remarks on winter Pines, it
will be seen that the only way in which their man-
agement differs from that of summer fruiters consists
in the maintenance of conditions, as regards heat and
moisture, favourable to steady growth through the
winter months, when Queens are in a comparative
state of rest.
The Open-bed System.—We are indebted
to Mr. Mills, at one time gardener at Gunnersbury,
for bringing into prominence the planting - out
system (as it is generally called), and there are a
few places in this country where it is now prac-
tised, the most successful being the Royal Gar-
dens, Frogmore, where, as in other large estab-
lishments, the Queens and tender varieties are still
grown in pots. The Smooth-leaved Cayenne, which
seems to do the best, can be grown to great perfection
on this principle, but not better than a number of
advocates of the pot system can produce them; and
as plants in pots are easily moved from place to place,
either to be pushed forward or retarded, cultivators
having limited space at command will find that the
planting-out system is not the best for giving a con-
tinuous and steady supply of ripe fruit. The usual
method of growing the Smooth-leaved Cayenne out
of pots is over hot-water pipes placed in chambers or
dry rubble. The tank system is not so well adapted,
as the moisture constantly rising from the open
gutters in course of time affects the soil, and the
roots do not seem to take hold of the lower stratum,
which, under ordinary conditions, is considered the
best. At Frogmore bottom heat is obtained from a
bed of fermenting Oak-leaves, the best of all mediums
for forcing vigorous growth; and it is, doubtless,
to the use of this material in an immense decaying
body that the wonderful luxuriance and colour of the
plants must be attributed. The suckers, as may be
supposed, are large and good when they are taken off
and planted over the beds of rich fermenting leaves
in the sucker-pit. In due course they are removed
to the succession or fruiting-pit with large forks,
where they are placed in rows from two to three feet
apart, and earthed up with large, rough, turfy pieces
of loam and peat, leaving them standing in ridges a
foot or so in height.
When passing through the gardens at Gunnersbury
many years ago, the process of shifting the succession
plants forward from one pit to another was going on.
Large flakes of half-decayed leaves were hanging
from the roots, which, despite the greatest care, natu-
rally received a check, and were thus predisposed
to form their embryo fruit, apparently simulta-
neously, judging from the equal size of the Pines
then swelling off in another house. Since that time
the planting-out system has made some progress;
THE PINE-APPLE.
but there can be little doubt that this drawback to
the otherwise simple mode of growing Pines has kept
it in check even in large places, where a constant
supply of good fruit is of the first importance. Some
cultivators have modified the system by growing
young stock in pots, and turning them out into the
beds when they would otherwise receive their final
shift into fruiting-pots; but itis questionable if the
space gained by growing the plants closer together
through the first season will compensate for the un-
certainty which attends their fruiting, and the possi-
bility of the majority of the Pines becoming ripe at
one time.
In order to place the plants in the best condition
for producing large fruit, pots should be dispensed
with altogether, as it very often happens that the bed
is not ready for their reception before they become
pot-bound, when one of two things takes place after
they are turned out—either many of the roots perish,
and the plants are reduced to the condition of suckers,
or some of them start prematurely into fruit, and
become useless. Therefore, to avoid these mishaps,
the Pine-grower whose space is limited should have
a good pit, large enough to hold as many young
plants as will keep the fruiting-house furnished
with successions. If bottom-heat pipes do not exist,
then fermenting leaves firmly trodden will produce a
genial bottom heat, over which suckers will soon form
roots and grow on firm and stocky, till the fruiting-
house can be properly prepared for their reception.
To insure a constant bottom heat of 80°, hot-water
pipes should be laid in a chamber, or in dry rubble,
with space for a foot of leaves and the soil, to raise
the level to within eighteen inches of the glass in
front, and from three to four feet at the back of
the pit.
The planting-out system may be commenced at
any season, provided the plants can be thoroughly
established before the dead months set in. Early
spring is, however, the best, as newly harvested
leaves are then at hand, and autumn-rooted suckers
are in good condition for moving, with every chance
of their taking to the new compost, and starting
away at once. When the fruiting-pit has been pre-
pared, and the compost, similar to that recommended
for pot culture, is ready, it should be placed loosely
in ridges running across the pit to get properly
warmed, turned, and aérated, when planting may be
proceeded with in the following manner. ‘The best
variety, as has been stated, being the Cayenne, the
largest plants should be placed in a row, two feet
six inches apart, along the back, with a few pieces of
rough turf under the balls to raise them to the
proper level, and firmly packed with compost, so as to
leave a deep furrow between the plants from back to
front. Then will follow the second row, two feet
267
from the first, ani so on until the pit is full. After
planting, the house should be kept close and the at-
mosphere well supplied with moisture for a few days,
when ordinary treatment as to air, heat, and slight
shading for an hour or two on bright days will follow.
If the soil is in nice friable condition, no water must
be given to the roots until they have started fairly
into growth; neither must the plants have more
than an occasional slight dewing over with the
syringe, as the new leaves and soil will give off an
abundance of moisture for a considerable time. If
larger plants from pots are used, the balls should be
slightly crushed, and the roots carefully unwound, so
as to bring them into immediate contact with the
new soil, and to prevent the old compost forming a
hard, dry substance, impervious to water during the
summer.
When Pines are turned out into warm ridges
of fresh fibrous turf, it is astonishing how quickly
the white roots begin to force their way to the
sides, and the broad short leaves spread out to
catch every ray of sunshine and light, giving them
quite a distinct character as compared with the same
varieties when confined to pots. When once estab-
lished, the treatment as to heat, air, and moisture
will be the same as for plants in pots, with perhaps
a little more solar heat to penetrate the ridges after
the pit is closed for the day. When watering is
found necessary, it should be liberally supplied, and
great care should be observed in the use of the
syringe, otherwise the large quantity of soil will hold
more water in suspension than is good for Pines. If
the plants are intended to start into fruit early in
the spring, no water must be given after September,
and the atmosphere must be kept drier than would be
considered safe for plants resting in pots; but the
Cayenne being more valuable as a succession to early
Queens, by modifying the winter treatment, and
fully developing the root system, much finer fruit
will be obtained from plants which are allowed to
grow themselves into a fruiting condition.
Renovation of the Bed.—When hot-water
pipes are found sufficient to keep up the proper
degree of bottom heat, it is not considered necessary
to turn out the pit and replenish the bed every year,
as plants can be taken out after the fruit is cut and
replaced with others from the reserve, which will, of
course, have a little fresh soil given to them at the
time of planting. In course of time the soil and
leaves get too far away from the glass, the plants
become irregular, and the general appearance of the
house suggests the propriety of making a new start
with everything fresh and clean. The best period for
this is immediately after'a large proportion of the
plants have finished their fruit, and there are but few
268. CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
that have not started on the way. If these are care-
fully lifted, and replaced in the back row when the
bed has been renovated, they will start as freely as
cut-over pot plants that miss fruiting. At places
like Frogmore, where leaves are the principal, if not
the entire, source of bottom heat, annual renovation
is a necessity, which comes round as regularly as the
crops of fine Pines are cut from the plants; and if
those who have not embarked in the planting-out
system are to judge from results, the question will
undoubtedly be decided in favour of the extensive
use of Oak-leaves, both for giving bottom heat and
swelling off the fruit.
From the preceding pages it must not be supposed
that the Smooth-leaved Cayenne is the only Pine
which does well when planted out. Its free, hardy
constitution undoubtedly places it at the head of the
list ; but other varieties, including the Queen, can be
equally well grown, as was proved by the late Mr.
Fleming, of Trentham, who produced Queens quite
as remarkable for size and quality as the finest
Cayennes that have yet been grown. And others
have frequently grown them in quantities averaging
over six pounds each, in pure loam, of a calcareous
nature, which many would consider too heavy for
Pines. This particular soil was obtained from a
paddock in which ewes and lambs are kept in the
spring, and was placed over leaves and hot-water
pipes in a succession pit, where the top heat is barely
sufficient to keep Cucumbers alive throughout the
winter months.
There are other systems, including the Meudon,
which at one time brought the French growers into
prominence, and stimulated our own countrymen
into action. But it is not too much to say that the
supreme excellence of the produce of our Pine-stoves
of the present day will enable British growers to
challenge any country in the world to which the king
of fruits is not indigenous.
————e
ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD
GARDENING.
ALPINE PLANTS.
By Epwarp W. Bancer, F.R.H.S.
List of Plants.—In the following list the
plants which require least skill to grow them suc-
cessfully are distinguished by an asterisk (*) ; the
others will be found to require some special treat-
ment as to soil, situation, &c., and are consequently
a little more difficult to grow successfully. There
are, however, very few of the plants named which
will not thrive admirably if the directions given are
carefully followed.
*Acena microphylla (Rosy-spined Aczena).—A
minute-leaved, very dwarf, trailing plant. It pro-
duces a number of insignificant flowers in round
heads. As the flowers fade the sepals elongate into
bright rosy spines, which are persistent and pretty,
and render the plant very conspicuous for several
months. Should be planted in an exposed position
away from larger plants. It blooms from June to
August and sometimes later; is easily propagated
by division; thrives in any good soil, but should
be well supplied with moisture during the summer
months. This plant is sometimes known as JA.
Nove Zealandia. A native of New Zealand.
*Alyssum saxatile (Yellow Alyssum).—A most
valuable early-flowering plant, producing an abun-
dance of bright yellow flowers. Wall grow in almost
any soil and position, but a dry exposed part of the
rockery suits it best. Readily propagated by cut-
tings or from seed. A very dwarf variety is known
as A. s. compactum. Native of Southern Russia.
Andromeda tetragona (Square-stemmed Andromeda).
—A very distinct and choice little plant, the correct
name of which is Cassiope tetragona, growing from
six to eight inches high, bearing pure white bell-
shaped flowers in April and May. Should be grown
in sandy peat kept very moist during the summer.
Propagated by careful division of the roots in spring.
Native of Northern Europe.
Androsace carnea (Rosy Androsace).—A lovely
alpine with rosy flowers, which may be grown with
only moderate care provided it be supplied with
plenty of water during the summer, and is planted
in a peaty soil mixed with sandy loam. Propagated
from offsets and seeds. European Alps.
Androsace Chamejasme (Rock Jasmine).—A most
desirable plant for the choice rockery. Should be
grown in a fully-exposed position where there is
plenty of root-room and the soil is a good sandy
loam. The surface of the soil should be covered
with nodules of sandstone to prevent too rapid
evaporation of moisture. Plenty of water must be
given during the growing months. Propagated by
division. \
ia oe
Richardia ethiopice (the
Fig.6.—A Stanp or Por PLANTS ARRANGED IN AN IMPROMPTU STYLE, FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE INTERMIXED,
ENTRANCE-HALLS AND CORRIDORS.
In dealing with floral arrangements for these,
there is an excellent opportunity for exercising
one’s abilities in the grouping together of bold
the spring months, bearing in mind the addition of
appropriate foliage as previously advised. Later on
the larger forms of Dafi dils could be turned to
a good account; these in turn being followed by
278
numbers of herbaceous plants, such as the showy
panicles of the Delphiniuuis, with the distinct spikes
of the Funkias, and their own handsome foliage.
Following these there are the hardy Liliums (Lilies),
as L. candidum, L. chalcedonicum, L. longifiorum, L.
Humboldtii, and the forms of JL. lancifolium or
speciosum for the autumn. Before the last of these
are fit to use there will be plenty of Gladiolus spikes
to be had; these form excellent subjects for side-
board decoration. At the same season, too, there are
the single Dahlias, whilst the smaller forms of Sun-
flowers (Helianthus), chiefly of the herbaceous
section, will have been useful for some time. Then
we have the Guernsey and Belladonna Lilies, that
will take us on till the late autumn flowering varieties
of Salvias are fit for use (chiefly the forms of Salvia
splendens\. After these are past there will be an
abundant choice of Chrysanthemums, which will
afford for several weeks an excellent variety in both
colour and form. When these are over and gone
there will be the spikes of Epacris in various shades,
and Schizostylis coccinea, with Eucharis amazonica,
which should be used when the last two or three
flowers are about developed, so that there’ is no
waste by taking off the spike. The Eucharis can of
course be worked into use at other seasons of the
year, in unison with the richly-coloured forms of
English and German Iris in particular, also with
Vallota purpurea, and the Amaryllis which flower
early in the season.
In this manner the year can be bridged round
with suitable subjects for bold and striking arrange-
ments, which in such positions are more appropriate
than any other form of decorations. In the place of
fresh flowers when these may be scarce, or to use in
addition to them, we have choice of the graceful
plumes of the Pampas Grass (Gynerium argenteum),
and the silvery Arundo (Arundo conspicua). The
ears of Indian Corn, too, can be turned to good
account, so also can the species of Typha or Cats’-
tails. ‘These latter would be a good contrast to the
plumes of the Pampas. Very effective, too, are well-
grown examples of Celosia pyramidalis. We manage
to secure these after the plants have done their turn
in the conservatory, and show signs of decay in the
roots and stem, the tops being still fresh and bright.
Flowers that are comparatively small, and only to be
had with short stems, are not so well suited for these
methods of grouping. The majority of the examples
that we have given will only be seen on one side in
either entrance-halls or corridors ; the best and most
effective way of arranging them therefore will be
“to one face,” in which manner some most striking
arrangements can be made, that with a little prac-
tice can soon be improved upon by those who have
not attempted much in this direction before. It is
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
necessary, however, to have vases with a firm
footing, to avoid any danger of toppling over after
being filled.
SINGLE PLANTS FOR ROOMS.
There are many plants which can be advantageously
used in the various apartments of the bouse, im-
parting in many instances a characteristic appearance
with the surrounding objects in each room, and in
unison too with the decorations of the same. Of such
plants, those that are grown for the beauty of their
toliage will, as a general rule, be found the more
suitable. These may be divided, we think, with ad-
vantage into two divisions: first, those which can be
grown with tolerable success for a portion of the
year at least in the said rooms; and, secondly, those
which are handsome objects for decorations of a tem-
porary character, but by reason of their susceptibility
to be injured if allowed tc remain for any length of
time, should not be employed as permanent orna-
ments. Itis morally impossible to grow with success
those plants which require the maximum of heat and
moisture for their proper development. In rooms,
the plants have no congenial atmospheric conditions,
no genial dew at night to invigorate their foliage
for the retention of health in the same, and as an aid
to the perfecting of future growths. This, combined
with the scarcity of light that is obtainable in some
positions (for plants often get placed in out-of-the-
way nooks and corners) is the frequent cause of
failure. If we for a moment glance at these plants,
which in their native climes revel in heavy dews and
considerable rainfall, we shall see the struggle they
have to maintain life under such disadvantageous
conditions. Everything that can be done to counter-
act these drawbacks to successful culture, should be
acted upon by preparing the plants beforehand for
these uses, gradually inuring them to the changes
they have to go through.
No plants should be used in room decorations that
have been recently re-potted into larger pots, or by
reducing the size of the ball and putting them back
again into the same pot. All plants should be
thoroughly well established in the pots they occupy
before being used. Our reason for this is, that they
will then more readily absorb the moisture from the
soil than when taken into use soon after a shift has
been given. The roots that are freshly made in new
soil are tender, and quickly suffer when the plant is
not in a growing atmosphere. The soil then becomes
cold and sodden, ending in the roots dying at the
extremities through these not being able to assimi-
late the necessary food from the soil, and the latter
then becomes what is termed sour and inert, by
reason of the excess of moisture. We advocate in all
possible cases the charge of the plants being in the
DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS.
hands of the cultivator, whatever position they may
occupy. It is extraordinary what superficial know-
ledge some have who are not practically acquainted
with the requirements of plants. They will, per-
haps, say, “‘ Oh! we watered our plants a little every
morning, and they cannot have suffered in. that
way.” Itis this dribbling system that is the evil,
the soil nearly always being saturated with water.
_Or, on the other hand, we may see the opposite ex-
treme of neglecting to water for days together, and
then giving a quantity to make up for deficiencies.
During the late autumn, the winter, and the early
spring months, the plants in rooms should be care-
fully shielded from draughts and the cold exterior
atmosphere. We often see plants placed in windows,
or near them, and no better place either, taken as a
whole; in the early morning, however, the windows
are thrown up when cleansing operations are being
carried on, quite irrespective of the plants and
the state of the weather outside, with, perhaps, a
few degrees of frost or a biting wind. No wonder
that plants should suffer when thus exposed. To
remedy this, remove them to a table or other con-
venient spot till the window can again be partially
closed. Windows with plants in or near them should
be opened at the top, not at the bottom, so that the
cold air will not strike right on to the plant.
Ornamental vases or pots can be obtained of many
varied designs to suit the taste ; those with a hole in
the bottom to let off the water that drains from the
pot will be found the best; such generally have an
ornamental saucer to accompany them. Rustic
stands or baskets to hold a small group are very
pretty when carefully filled, with a carpeting of
fresh green Moss placed between them. With such
as these, a few plants of drooping habit will be of
use around the edges, or some nice fresh tufts of
Selaginella denticulata or S. c@esia.
The following list of plants may be taken under
the first division hinted at as being good durable
room plants; those marked with (*) being capable
of effective use as dinner-plants as well. Of foliage
subjects: Aspidistra lurida variegata, from China,
one of the best, thriving in unfavourable posi-
tions as well or better than the Ficus elastica
(India-rubber Plant); this, too, must be included,
being an excellent subject for a high window
when the plant reaches three or more feet in height,
Stenocarpus sinuatus, a little-known plant with pin-
natifid foliage, and very pretty in a small state.
Aralia Sieboldii and its variegated forms are hand-
some objects for large-sized vases, both distinct and
durable. A. reticulata is also a good plant, with
narrow leaves, unlike most of the Aralias. Of the
green-house Dracenas, two or three of the green-
leaved forms are very useful, being also of good consti-
279
tution. D. congesta,* with narrow leaves of medium
length, is one of the hardiest ; D. »wbra,* with broader
foliage, is equally useful. Hurya latifolia variegata,
best described as resembling a Camellia with varie-
gated foliage, is very ornamental. Farfugium grande,
or the Variegated Coltsfoot, is a good dwarf plant.
Grevillea robusta * is coming to be better known since
it has been raised from seed; its Fern-like foliage is
very ornamental and distinct. Ophiopogon Jaburan
variegata, with grass-like leafage and pretty spikes
of porcelain-blue flowers, is a good lasting plant.
Rhopala corcovadensis, with its rich brown tomentose
stems and younger leaves, is very ornamental as well
as of good lasting properties; R. elegantissima* is
another handsome kind; &. De Jonghii, with more
massive foliage, is also good.
Several of the hardier kinds of Palms are among
the most ornamental plants for room decoration.
The following list comprises the best adapted for re-
maining any time in rooms and other positions in the
house :— Areca sapida (Rhopalostylis sapida), A. Baueri
(Rhopalostylis Baueri), Chamerops humilis, C. excelsa
(Trachycarpus excelsus), K. Forsteriana* (Howea For-
stervana), Latania borbonica (Livistona chinensis),
Pheniz reclinata, P. rupicola,* P. tenuis, P. dactylifera,
Rhapis flabelliformis, and Seaforthia elegans* (Ptycho-
sperma Cunninghamiana) ; these being all cool-house
species, with good lasting foliage that does not so
easily suffer from exposure. There are not many
stove plants adapted for remaining many days out of
their quarters; the green-leaved Pandanus, as P.
graminifolius,* P. utilis, and P. Vandermeerschii,* are
about the best. We have, however, several Ferns
that succeed for months together, provided they have
a favourable position with an average amount of
light. Adiantum pubescens, Asplenium bulbiferum, A.
Jlaceidum, A. lucidum, Cyrtomium faleatum, Davallia
canariensis, D. Mariesii (comparatively new), Dictyo-
gramma japonicum, Lastrea Sieboldii, L. Standishii,
Nephrolepis exaltata, N. pectinata, N. tuberosa, Nipho-
bolus lingua, Phlebodium aureum, Platyceriwm alcicorne,
Platyloma faleatum, Pteris cretica, P. longifolia, P. ser-
vulata (or Ribbon Fern), P. tremula, and P. umbrosa.
These Ferns would give greater satisfaction than the
more delicate forms. The Maiden-hair (Adiantum
cuneatum)* is often attempted, but generally creates
disappointment, growing less day by day.
Some few plants are well adapted when in a
large state for situations of considerable extent;
such, for instance, as Phormium tenax, and its va-
riegated varieties; and the tall-growing Draczenas,
D. australis, D. mdivisa, and D. lineata* (these
three are really Cordylines), with the greenhouse
species of the genus Yucca; these plants in a small
state are not generally so useful, Dracena aus-
tralis being the best of them when young. Many
280
of the other subjects that we have named are also
very ettective in a large state; the Palms more par-
ticularly, most of which are of stately growth and
bold contour. There are some few flowering plants
that succeed well in rooms, especially in windows.
One of the very best is Campanula fragilis, which we
have seen cultivated the year round by a lady in her
drawing-room; C.
garganica is another
pretty species.
Several of the Cacti
are also easily
grown, though not
desirable when of
extra size. Space
forbids us to enu-
merate other genera
of suitable flower-
ing plants, though
many may be at-
tempted with toler-
able success.
Of foliage plants
belonging to the
second division, we
have a wealth of
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
have long yet fairly broad leaves, and are all well-
tried sorts with good colour, but, although so well
known under the name of Croton, belong to a quite
distinct genus, viz., Codieum :—C. Queen Victoria,* C.
undulatus,* C. Weismanni,* C. Nevillee,* and C. Anei-
tumensis.* The broad-leaved section are highly
ornamental in a small state; the best are C. Baroness
J. de Rothschild, C.
Comite de Germiny, |
C. Dayspring, C.
Evansianus,* C.
Mortvi, C. pictus,*
C. variegatus, C.
Andreanus.* The
best of the trilobe
types are C. Dis-
raeli* and C. Earl
of Derby. Next to
these we will enu-
merate a few of the
best coloured Dra-
czenas; these make
splendid decorative
plants, some with
narrow and linear
foliage, others with
broad and noble
choice wherewith
to beautify and
adorn the apart-
ments for special
occasions, either in-
dividually or col-
lectively. Several
stove plants can
here be brought
into use with advan-
tage. Some of the
best are in the fol-
lowing list, viz. :—
Acalypha tricolor,* a
plant that lights up
well; Alocasia metal-
hea,in.a small state ;
Ananassa sativa
varvegata* (Variegated Pine-apple) ; Aralia elegantis-
sima,* A. Veitchii gracillima,* and A. leptophylia,
three distinct plants both light and pretty ; Aspara-
gus plumosus nanus,* described in a previous chap-
ter, also A. tenuissimus; Begonias with ornamental
foliage ; Caladiwms, in variety, C. argyrites in parti-
cular. Crotons in a small state are very ornamental
when well coloured. The following are some of
the best, viz.: C. angustifolius,* C. Brageanus (new),
C. Johannis,* C. majesticus,* C. nobilis,* C. caudatus
tortilis, C. Warrenii,* and C. Sinitzinianus, all having
narrow pendulous foliage. The following kinds
Fig. 7.—A Sranp oF Pot Puiants, ForraGe SuBsECTS ONLY.
leaves. Of the
former, D. termi-
nalis,* D.Cooperii,*
D. Bausei,* D. ju-
cunda,* D. elegan-
tissima,* D. nigro-
rubra,* and JD.
Mooreana,* are
distinct and
good. Of the
broad - leaved sec-
tion, D. Youngii is
one of the most
noble and effective,
so also is D. Bap-
tistii. D. amabilis,
D. stricta, and D.
Thompsonii are likewise fine varieties. D. gracilis, with
green foliage and a margin of purplish-bronze, is
quite distinct (all the preceding, however, are not
now known as Dracznas at all, but are forms of one
or two species of Cordyline). There is also D. Gold-
ieana, with its curiously - barred leaves. Cyperus
alternifolius* and its variegated variety are very
handy plants, especially for grouping. Ficus parcellt
is distinct, so also is Erythrina marmorata, a plant
that bears a good amount of rough usage. Of the
variegated Pandanus, P. Veitchii* is far away the
best, and always in request. For carpeting work or
DECORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS. 281
edging of groups Panicum variegatum (Oplismenus
Burmanni variegatus), Fittonia argyroneura, the Tra-
descantias, and the Sonerilas are all good in associa-
tion with the Club Mosses or Selaginellas. Consider-
able aid is also obtained from Palms of more tender
constitution. The following varieties will all be of
the greatest service either as individual specimens, or
for using collectively in groups. Of the so-called
Arecas, A. aurea* (Dictyosperma album), A. lutescens*
(Chrysalidocarpus
lutescens), and A.
_ Verschaffeltii (Hyo-
phorbe Verschaf-
feltii) are all dis-
tinctand handsome
species. Calamus
ciliaris* is also a
beautiful Palm.
Among the Geono-
mas there are G.
pumila,* G. graci-
lis,* G, Schottiana,*
and G. intermedia,*
all of elegant
growth. Demono-
rops fissus,* Euterpe
edulis,* aud Thri-
nax elegans* are
each of them excel-
lent decorative
plants. Cocos Wed-
delliana,* is a well- SG W Ss POND
S S NY s
known Palm that GW \< op
l Sve BN Me Yf YY
scarcely needs any Wess aN) He
= SA > SO % / Mh
recommendation, SG Wise
being a_ general =e
favourite. The fol-
lowing kindsare ail
of tall, slender, and
plume-like habit,
which causes them
to be of great ser-
vice in groups or in
any position where their beautiful heads of feathery
foliage can be effectively displayed, viz., Cocos plu-
mosa, C. Romanzofiana, Chamedorea elegantissima,* C.
graminifolia,* C. glaucifolia, and Oreodoxa regia. All
of these thrive in the most limited size of pot, pro-
vided they are well supplied with water. Of hardy
plants, or nearly so, there are the fine laciniate or cut-
leaved varieties of Japanese Maples (mostly forms of
Acer palmatum), some with deep green, others with
bronzy-red foliage. These have a beautiful effect
under artificial light, with a few flowering plants
interspersed amongst them. The variegated Acer
Negundo (more correctly Negundo aceroides variegatum)
Fig. 8.—A WELL-PROPORTIONED PALM FOR A VASE.
is also a useful plant when grown in pots for in-door
decoration. The hardy Bamboos are likewise excel-
lent subjects for these uses, Bambusa Metake (Arun-
dinaria japonica) and Arundinaria falcata being the
best. LHulalia japonica* and Gymnothrixz latifolia are
two valuable Grasses; the variegated variety of the
former, when grown under glass, being a choice plant
for groups.
The choice of flowering plants is so large that but a
cursory glance can
be given. Avoid
the use of trained
plants of formal
and stiff outline in
every ‘case where
beauty of arrange-
ment is the prim-
ary consideration.
Rather choose such —
as are of slender
growth, as Richar-
dia ethiopica, Lili-
ums and Gladiolus
of various sorts,
Lucharis amazon-
ica, with Pancra-
tiwm fragrans (Hy-
menocallis ovata),
and Amaryllis of
many kinds, for the
central portions of
a groups, whilst a-
> \ \\\saf round the margins
‘) small pots of Glox-
Fe inias and other
UNE ae g Z AQ plants, each in their
season, will be very
effective, with the
addition of some
Maiden-hair Fern.
In all groups let
every flowering
plant be placed so
that its beauty is seen distinctively. The mistaken
notion of overcrowding pot plants is as much to be
condemned as is a crowded arrangement of cut flowers.
Massing of several plants of any given variety must
be done with caution. Pots of Spirea japonica
(Astilbe japonica) and Lilies of the Valley make pretty
groundworks amongst the taller-growing plants.
Rhodanthes, in variety with the Aquilegias, can be
used ina similar way. Of plants with sweet perfume,
besides those named, among the cut flowers, there are
the scented-leaved Pelargoniums, and Aloysia citri-
odora (Lippia citriodora), called also Sweet-scented
Verbena, or Lemon Plant.
Mention must also be |
282 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
made of Boronia megastigma ; the aromatic fragrance
of its singular flowers should cause it to be grown by
lovers of odoriferous plants. Ifa window which ad-
mits a goodly quantity of sunlight is available, that
would be a very suitable place for a pot of Musk
(Mimulus moschatus) through the summer months.
Fern or Wardian cases should also be accorded a
similar position, but slightly screened from the
direct rays of the sun during its greatest height each
day. A bow-window would be an excellent position
to choose for one of these cases, guarding, as pre-
viously hinted at, against injury from excessive or
cold currents of air. ‘This branch of the subject
will, however, be treated more in detail in a series
of articles upon Wixbow anp House GARDENING.
THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE.
By D. T. Fisu.
ROSES ON WALLS, AND WALLS OF ROSES.
HE title may savour of tautology, but it is really
not so, as the two things are totally distinct.
Roses have doubtless found a place on walls from
their first introduction, but a wall of Roses is a novel
modern invention, the number of examples of which
may yet be counted on our fingers. To plant a
tender Rose on a dwelling-house or wall is a very
different matter to clothing a whole wall, fifty, one
hundred, or five hundred yards long, with Roses.
And this is what we are coming to in the not distant
future; for, commercially, Roses pay better than
fruit, and they also yield a richer and more durable
“revenue of pleasure.
Some Roses, such as the Daisy or Banksian—
which, by the way, are also Roses without thorns—
and some of the more tender Noisettes, such as the
Cloth of Gold (akas Chrometella) or La Morgue,
have always needed the genial shelter of warm walls
to enable them to thrive and bloom in our climate.
It would almost seem, too, as if our climate or some
of our Roses had changed for the worse. Five-and-
twenty years ago the Cloth of Gold, contrasted with
the general rarity of Roses, was common. I have
seen a plant of it in Suffolk covering the front of a
large mansion, which it goldened o’er with a profusion
of Roses that could hardly be exceeded by its great
successor and superseder, Maréchal Niel. But now—
well, itisnowhere. Not that it is extinct, for it lives,
mayhap flowers here and there, but it is hardly ever
seen or, indeed, heard of; and yet this Cloth of Gold
in perfection is quite equal to Maréchal Niel, which
has not only superseded it, but apparently so under-
mined its constitution that the Cloth of Gold will
hardly live where it ‘used to grow like a weed.
Since the introduction of Maréchal Niel it has
become the favourite golden Rose for warm walis.
It has, however, faults of its own from which the
Cloth of Gold was free. It blooms almost too
early for our climate, and is subject to gout in
its stems, that ends its career suddenly and pre-
maturely. The merits of this Rose are, however,
so great, and it flowers so profusely, that it has
already become the most popular of all Roses for
walls.
But writing of Roses on walls rather than walls of
Roses, it will be our duty and pleasure to note some
of the old favourites. First and foremost among
these ranks the Banksian or Daisy Rose, introduced ~
from China by Sir Joseph Banks in 1807. These
Daisy Roses have also the merit of being without
thorns. They flower in clusters like white and
golden Daisies already gathered into posies. The
white is fragrant—a sort of half-and-half of Prim-
rose and Violet ; the yellow has little or no odour.
Both are great favourites, and bloom freely on a
south or west wall. The variety introduced by Mr.
Fortune and bearing his name has much larger and
pure white flowers, which so far spoils a Banksian
Rose. ‘There is also an improved yellow Banksian,
with finer foliage than the common, and a deeper-
coloured, richer yellow bloom. These are, however,
seldom seen in gardens, whereas trees of the
common white and yellow of enormous size and
floriferousness are not uncommon. To flower these
Roses freely, a free growth should be encouraged,
and they should be pruned sparingly, and that only
once a year, about midsummer, so soon as the flowers
fade. The whole of the long sprays made after-
wards should be left, and these result in wreaths of
bloom in tiny clusters from a foot to two yards
long, drooping and draping and even hiding the
front of a wall.
The Macartney Rose (Rosea bracteata) was also a
great favourite on walls when the old China, the
Boursault, and Ayrshire, with a few others, were
almost the only competitors. These are still among
the most interesting of all Roses, though, considering
that they were introduced from China as early as
1795, they are far from common. The foliage, wood,
and stem are peculiar as well as the flowers, the
leaves large and shining; the stems of at least one
being rough, with a sort of suppressed spines as those
of a hedgehog, and the flowers pure white, of a pecu-
liarly pleasing odour. ‘There is a double variety
now, but the single was the most common in the —
olden times.
The Musk Rose-—This was one of the first to
be introduced into this country, supposed io have
been received from Persia or India as early as the
year 1596. It was well known to the early poets, as
THE ROSE AND
Shakespeare refers to it several times in the Mid-
summer Night’s Dream, thus :—
*€ Some to kill cankers in the Musk Rose buds,
* * * * * * *
And stick Musk Roses in thy sleek, smooth hair.”
This species of Rose with its varieties is still largely
erown in Spain, Persia, and Africa, and is supposed
to be the Rose from which the famous Otto of Roses
is manufactured. It is somewhat tender, and flowers
im clusters in the autumn. Musk scent is less popular
than it used to be, and it would almost seem that
the Musk Rose had dropped part of its perfume to
be in harmony with the times. Certain it is that
it now needs a moist atmosphere, a still air, and
acute olfactory nerves to perceive the odour of Musk
in these Roses. There are several varieties now,
among the best of which are White Fringed, the
Double White, the flowers having a dash of yellow
in them; the Princesse de Nassau, the sweetest of
all modern sorts, of a yellowish-pink colour; and
Rivers’ Musk, a creamy-white with a dash of pink in
the cream. The original species (Rosa moschata) was
single, and was the one generally grown on walls
or in warm borders long, long ago. In favourable
situations and on warm walls the Musk Rose grows
freely, and a few are well worth growing for their
associations as well as their intrinsic merits. Ad-
ditional interest attaches to the Musk Rose, inasmuch
as it is thought to have been one of the parents—
the other being the Chinese—of the Noisette Rose, so
called after Philippe Noisette of North America, who
introduced that family into Europe in 1817. The
small and curious-leaved Rose microphylla was also
occasionally met with, and other species, the Bour-
sault, Ayrshire, and Evergreen Roses, being fast
climbers, were lkewise largely employed as wall-
clothers.
Those who could appreciate the persistent flower-
ing properties of the common and other varieties of
the China Rose, that earned for it the well-deserved
character of “monthly” in the olden time, also
frequently backed it up against walls with the
happiest results. Roses being scarce, and empty
walls plentiful, all Roses were often placed against
them, and one of the most pleasing visions of the
past is that of a trio of the oldest Moss, Provence,
and Alba Roses, planted thus—a Maiden Blush
in the centre, supported by the old Cabbage and
the old Moss to the right.and left of it. These
had enwreathed the entire front of a cottage, which
they clothed with beauty and steeped in fragrance
every summer-tide, and furnished a good illustra-
tion of the fact that all Roses will climb if you give
them time. This is worth remembering in these
days of feverish hurry and haste, and when so many
vigorous-growing Roses are marshalled ready to our
ITS CULTURE. 283
hand, warranted to reach the summit of the highest
post, arch, or wall in the shortest time.
Varieties.—Any favourite Rose, either of the
past or the present, may be planted against walls; and
those who wish to retain something of the character
of the old-fashioned wall Roses, while using more or
less of new material, can hardly do better than add to
the old Roses, already indicated, such selections from
the Moss, Hybrid Chinas, Chinas, Bourbons, Nois-
ettes, and Hybrid Perpetuals, as follows :—
MOSS.
Perpetual Moss.—Pure white, flowering in clusters.
Madame Moreau.—Bright red, striped with white.
James Veitch.—Deep violet, with crimson shading,
large and double.
Mrs. Wim, Paul.—One of the best and brightest of
the Perpetual Moss Roses.
HYBRID CHINAS.
Blaivw No: 2.
Coupe d’Hébé.—This is far the best of its class,
grows vigorously, flowers in clusters, exquisite in
bud, of the deepest pink, continues in flower for two
or more months.
Chenodole.—Brilliant crimson, very large.
Fulgens.—Bright crimson-scarlet.
Madame Plantier.—Pure white.
Miss Ingram.—Pure white, with pinky centre.
Paul Ricaut.—Rich crimson, one of the most vivid.
Paul Verdier.—Bright rose, large and full.
Vivid.—Rich crimson, free and showy.
CHINAS.
Common Red and Pink.
American Banner.—Y ellowish-white, grand colour,
with rose magenta stripes.
Oramoisie Supérieure.— V elvety-crimson.
James Sprunt.—A climbing sport from the above.
BOURBONS.
Gloire de Rosamene.—Brilliant in bud, though not
much more than semi-double when full.
Souvenir de la Malmaison.—-One of the best of the
pale flesh or blush Roses. .
NOISETTES.
Avmée Vibert.—Pure white, very fine.
America,—-Pale salmon-pink, shaded, in large
clusters.
Celine Forestier.—Pale or primrose- yellow, in
clusters.
Coquette des Blanches.—Extra pure white, large
and free.
Jaune Desprez.—Bronzy-yellow and buff, change-
able, very vigorous.
Lamarque.—Pale lemon, pure white in buds,
flowers in large clusters, one of the best.
éve d’ Or.—Deep yellow, large and full.
284 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
Triomphe de Rennes.—Pale yellow, very free and
good, especially so in the autumn.
William Allen Richardson.—Small orange-yellow
flowers, striking.
HYBRID PERPETUALS.
These are so beautiful, and most of them such
good growers, that the whole family might be backed
up against walls, which they would speedily clothe
with verdure and beauty. Hence the difficulty of
selection is as great as it seems almost needless.
But the following may be warranted as among the
best wall-clothers.
First of all there are the climbing varieties of such
well-known Roses as—
Captain Christy, Charles Lefebvre, Edouard Morren,
Jules Margottin, Bessie Johnson, Mdlle. Eugénie
Verdier, and Victor Verdier.
Anna Alexeff.—Bright rose, large and free.
Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild.—A bright rosy-
crimson.
Brightness of Cheshunt.—Bright scarlet, fine form.
Boule de Neige.—The very best white Perpetual
for a wall, small but exquisite in form and frag-
rance, flowering in bunches throughout the season.
Baroness Rothschild—Pale rose, shaded white,
robust, but not a fast grower.
Baron Bonstetten.—Rich dark velvety-crimson.
Camille Berardin.—Light crimson, often shaded
with white, striking and most effective.
Charles Lefebvre.—As good, though not quite such
a rapid grower, as the climbing variety of the best of
all the darkest red or velvety-purple Roses.
Comtesse de Serenzi.—Light rosy-pink, fine form,
large.
Countess of Rosebery.—Rich soft carmine-rose.
Duchesse de Vallombrosa.—Soft rosy-peach, melting
with age into French white; good.
Duke of Connaught.—Rich velvety-crimson, very
brilliant, rather small.
Duke of Edinburgh.—This well-known, popular,
rich vermilion Rose is,an excellent grower, with
clean and beautiful foliage.
Emily Laxton.—Bright rose-coloured.
Edouard Morren.—Large, deep cherry-coloured.
Fisher Holmes.-—Brilliant scarlet, rich, open.
Glory of Cheshunt,—Rich and vivid shaded crimson.
General Jacqueminot.—One of the oldest and still
the best among the brilliant crimson-scarlets.
Helen Paul.—Good white, occasionally suffused
with pink.
John Bright.—Pure glowing crimson.
Jules Margottin.— Bright carmine, one of the
finest and best autumnal Roses on walls.
John Hopper.—Delicate rosy-crimson; a general
favourite.
La France.—The best of all the silvery - pink
Roses, and in bloom on a wall from May to Decem-
ber; an ever-growing, long-bloon=rg, almost ever-
green Rose, combining in itself the fragrance of all
the others; no wall must be without this Rose, and
if there is only room for one Rose, let La France be
that one.
La Duchesse de Morny.—A soft mixture of rose
and silver.
Madame Vietor Verdier—Large and full, deep
carmine.
Madame Clémence Joigneaux.—Very sweet rose,
shaded lilac, large and full.
Madame Lacharme.——Pure white, large and full;
needs a wall in many localities to do it justice.
Madame Nachury.—Light silvery -rose, deeply
cupped.
Malle. Annie Wood.—ULarge and full, rich clear red.
Maréchai Vailiant.—Bright crimson, very profuse
bloomer.
Marchioness of Exeter.—Clear bright cherry-rose.
Maurice Berardin. — Rich vermilion, very tine, and
similar to Ferdinand de Lesseps, Sir Garnet Wolse-
ley, and Exposition de Brie; the number of aliases
in this instance being proofs of excellency.
Monsieur Noman. — Perfect form, large, rose-
coloured.
Merveille de Lyon.—The best and most vigorous of
all the white sports from the Baroness Rothschild.
Better than the White Baroness or Mabel ‘Morrison.
Mr. Harry Turner.—Bright crimson-scarlet, with
rich maroon shading.
Paul Neron.—The largest of all Roses, coarse in
summer, but worth a wall for the more moderate-
sized and good-shaped bloom it yields in autumn;
deep rose-coloured.
Prince Arthur.—Deep rich crimson, rather small,
but brilliant and beautiful.
Prince Camille de Rohan.—This is too well known
as the deepest, darkest, and most fragrant of all the
black-crimson velvet Roses to need further descrip-
tion.
Red-Gauntlet.—Scarlet-crimson, shaded rose.
Souvenir de Mons. Boll.—Bright cerise, large, full.
Star of Waltham. —Deep crimson, with very firm
foliage.
Robert Marnock.—Brownish - crimson, rich and
good.
Sultan of Zanzibar.—Dark maroon, a sort of in-
termediate colour and character between Duke of
Edinburgh and Reynold’s Hole, and equal to either,
excepting in size. Reynold’s Hole should also be
grown.
Thomas Milis.—One of the brightest and freest of
the bright crimson Roses, not very large.
Violette Bouyer.—.! lmost pure white.
ea a
THE ROSE AND ITS CULTURE. 285
W. Wilson Saunders.—Intense crimson, good and
showy.
OTHER KINDS.
Among hybrid Teas, Cheshunt Hybrid, a rich, free-
flowering, rampant-growing, cherry-carmine Rose, is
a host in itseif.
Reine Marie Henriette has been called a red Gloire
de Dijon, and is a Rose of similar character, and of
a deeper cherry-red. The buds are also longer and
more pointed.
Cannes la Coquette.—Light salmon-pink, some-
thing in the way of La France,
Some of Mr. Bennett’s pedigree Roses promise to
be useful for walls, though several of them have
wholly failed in the open air. The following are
the most promising and latest additions to these,
though they have far more of the Tea than the
Hybrid Perpetual in their character and constitu-
tion :—
Countess of Pembroke.—A cross between President
and Charles Lefebvre; of a soft rose-colour and
fully scented.
Lady Mary Fitzwilliam.—A cross between Devoni-
ensis and Victor Verdier; a delicate flesh-coloured,
good Rose.
Distinction.—A cross between Mme. de St. Joseph
and Mdlle. Kugénie Verdier; soft shaded peach; a
good grower.
Princess of Wales.—A cross between Adam and
Eliza Sauvage; colour a unique rosy-yellow; long,
pointed buds; opens well, good form.
The Tea Roses shall have a wall to themselves ;
suffice it to name among Roses on walls the Climbing
Devoniensis, Gloire de Dijon, and Gloire de Bordeaux,
or Pink Glory, as it is often called. These possess
a vigour and power of blooming that enable them
to mount and cover the loftiest walls in the briefest
space of time. The bulk of the family of Teas
are, however, reserved for furnishing whole walls of
Roses.
Walls of Roses.—The building of new walls
for, and the devoting of old ones wholly to Roses,
is one of the latest developments of taste, civilisation,
and commercial enterprise in horticulture. Like
many fashions, however, it is less of a new invention
than a revival. he furnishing material is more or
less novel, but floral walls are, or were, one of the
oldest features of English horticulture. Jasmines,
Honeysuckles, Clematis, or other plants too fragile or
tender to stand alone, were aided by the strength
and nurtured by the warmth of stone and brick walls.
To help the plant the better to battle successfully
against climatic difficulties, these walls were not
seldom heated. By such means magnificent displays
of all the more tender as well as the best species of
Magnolias, and other tender shrubs or trees, have
been grown and bloomed successfully.
Varieties.—No plant, or flower, can better de-
serve a wall than the Tea Roses, while none can
match them in fragrance or beauty. And there are
many of them, such as Marie Van Houtte, Catherine
Mermet, &c., that eclipse the golden riches of
Maréchal Niel by their delicacy of colour and per-
fection of form.
Anna Ollivier.—Rosy flesh-colour, large and fuli.
Adrienne Christophe.—Rich mixture of copper,
apricot, and peach.
Alba rosea.—White, with rose centre; one of the
hot Amazons, elegant, deep lemon-coloured; bud
valuable for cutting.
Aline Sisley.— Purple and bright red colour—
almost new.
Belle Lyonnaise.—Deeper than Gloire de Dijon.
Beauté de V Europe.—Deep yellow, reverse of petal
coppery. [de Dijon.
Bouquet @ Or.—Deep fawn and yellow, like Gloire
Bride.—A pure white Catherine Mermet.
Catherine Mermet.—A lovely variety, large and
perfect in form, light flesh-coloured.
Comtesse de Nadaillac.—Rich apricot-yellow.
Comtesse Riza du Parc.—Pink with coppery base,
best as a rule on a wall.
Coquette de Lyon.—Sott canary-yellow, fine form.
Devoniensis.—Grows more freely on a wall; no-
thing can exceed its soft mixture of rose and cream,
nor its exquisite fragrance. Also the climbing
variety.
Duchess of Edinburgh.—The deepest-coloured of
all Teas, crimson, very floriferous, in the way of the
old China.
Eliza Sauvage.—Large and fine, yellow-rose, witb
orange centre.
Etoile de Lyon.—Bright sulphur, excellent form.
Homere.— Blush, mottled with pink, very vigorous,
covers the highest wall in a very short time.
Honourable Edith Gifford—Something like De-
voniensis; white, tinted rose, extra fine.
Innocente Pirola.—Pure white, tinted rose, chaste
and charming.
Isabella Sprunt.—One of the most profuse bloomers,
thin when open, but exquisite in bud, most useful
for button-holes, deep yellow colour.
Jean Ducher.—Uarge, full, of good form, yellow
and salmon, splashed with peach.
Jules Finger.—This fine Rose has been called a red
Catherine Mermet.
La Boule d’ Or requires a south wall fully to develop
its beauty ; pale yellow, with deep orange centre.
Le Mont Blanc.—White, slightly suffused with
yellow.
286
Letty Coles—A pink sport of one of the most
beautiful of all Tea Roses, of the Madame-Willermoz
type.
Madame Angele Jacquier —Copper-coloured yellow,
with bright pink centre.
_ Madame Bravy.—aA very rich and beautiful variety,
cream-coloured.
Madame Berard.—tUarge reflexed flower of a
shaded salmon-colour.
Madame Falcot.—Rich orange-yellow, better than
Safrano, best in bud.
Madame Weich.—Light yellow, with orange centre.
Madame Denis.—White, with sulphur centre, one
of the most vigorous.
Madame Eitvenne Levet.—Deep red, with coppery-
yellow centre, one of the richest and best.
Madame Cusin.—Light purple, the base of each
petal being yellow, pretty pointed bud, very distinct.
Madame Willermoz.—One of the finest of all the
Teas, white, with salmon centre, very double, and of
perfect form.
Madame Eugéne Verdier—One of the richest and
deepest-coloured of all the Gloire de Dijon sports or
seedlings.
Madame Hippolyte Jamain.-—White, with yellowish
centre.
Madame Margottin.—Deep crimson, with rich rosy-
peach centre.
Madame Maurin.—White, shaded with salmon,
full and large.
Madame de Watteville—A fine new rose, tulip-
shaped, salmon, bordered with rose.
May Paul.—A red Tea; a refined and more fiori-
ferous Gloire de Bordeaux.
Monsieur Furtado.—A decided improvement on
Narcisse; soft pale yellow.
Marie Sisley. — Yellowish-white, fringed with
rose.
Marie Van Houtte.—The richest and most delicate
combination of yellow and peach to be found among
Roses.
Maréchal Niel.So deep and full of gold and of
fragrance as to deserve the whole of any wall to
itself.
Niphetos.—W orthy to run abreast with the Maré-
chal Niel as the finest pure white Rose in-doors or
out. Grown on a south or west wall, it blooms
most profusely, and the outside of its Magnolia-
like shaped and substantial petals is often surface-
- painted with pink that even adds to their beauty.
Niphetos is generally described as pale yellow, but
in the garden or under glass the yellow is blanched
out of it, and it is the whitest of all white Roses, as
well as the best.
Perfection de Monplaisir.—Very free - flowering ;
deep yellow.
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
Perle de Lyon.—Rich yellow, large and full.
Perle des Jardins.—This rather new, bright straw-
coloured Rose is so beautiful as to warrant its ambi-
tious name.
Rubens.— Something in the way of Adam and Pre-
sident, which are so nearly alike as to have become
one in show- stands, but having more white and
less rose in it than either; Rubens also grows and
blooms freely.
Safrano is still one of the most popular and fiori-
ferous of the orange-yellow Roses.
The coppery-red Rose, Safrano a Fleur Rouge, is
almost equally worthy of a place on the wall, both
being perfect in bud. :
Sombreuil.—still one of the best pure white Roses,
flowering in large bunches.
Souvenir d’ Elise.--The very best of all the cream
and rose Teas, though these may be said to be the
prevailing colours among Roses.
Souvenir de Madame Pernet.—Large, globular, rose-
coloured.
Souvenir de Paul Neron.—Fine, double, yellowish,
bordered with rose.
Souvenir d’un Amt.—One of the best selfs among the
Teas; almost a pure rose-colour, with a dash of salmon.
Souvenir de Thérése Levet.—A crimson Niphetos.
Triomphe de Guillot jils.— Large and fragrant;
fawn, tinted with salmon.
Vicomtesse de Cazes.—A rich mixture of yellow and
orange, fringed with copper.
New fragrant pedigree Roses for walls :—Countess
of Pembroke, pinkish; Earl of Pembroke, crimson;
Heinrich Schultheis, pink-rose ; Mrs. John Laing, soft
pink; The Puritan, yellowish- white; Viscountess
Folkestone, creamy-pink ; William F. Bennett, crimson,
lemon-scented. Other Roses worth trying on walls,
not fragrant :—Her Majesty, Princess Beatrice, and Ye
Primrose Dame. Two other new and fragrant Roses :—
Lady Helen Stuart, h.p., crimson-scarlet, and Triomphe
des Noisettes, bright Roses, flowering in clusters.
FERNS.
By James Britten, F.L.S.
The Hymenophyllums.—Probably but few
plant-lovers would be found to dispute the asser-
tion that in the whole kingdom of ferns there are
no more beautiful and interesting plants than
the Hymenophyllums and their near allies, the
Trichomanes. The two genera just named, and
Todea—which has already been treated in this work
—constitute what are popularly known as “filmy
ferns.’ Now that the general requirements of these
wonderfully delicate-fronded subjects are better un-~—
derstood, there seems no reason to doubt that before
FERNS. 287
long their cultivation will extend considerably. A
large collection can be grown in a comparatively
small structure, and will thrive with very little
attention, provided that the essential conditions
obtain, viz., continuous shade and moisture.
Hymenophyllums are found in all temperate and
tropical climates, and, according to the “Synopsis
Filicum,” there are about eighty species. Various
authors, however, with very different views as
to the limitation of genera and species, consider
that Hymenophyllum and Trichomanes—as under-
stood here—comprise no less than some two dozen
genera; the eighty species of Hymenophyllum, too,
are by the same writers multiplied into more than
five times that number. Many of the species are
almost ubiquitous—the two representatives of the
genus in the British flora may be cited as exam-
ples—and, as is almost sure to be the case, they
exhibit a very considerable range of variation in
size, habit, &c., according to the widely-different
conditions as to temperature, &c., under which they
exist. These purely geographical forms are regarded
as distinct species by many botanists.
The principal character by which Hymenophy]l-
lum may be distinguished from Trichomanes, resides
in the involucre; that of the first-named genus being
two-valved, whilst in the latter it is united into a
cup. Both affect moist, shady places, near water-
falls, trunks of trees, and dripping rocks.
The following selection comprises some of the
best and most distinct species in cultivation.
Hf. eruginosum is a rare’ species, a native of the
island of Tristan d’Acunha; the tripannitifid, co-
piously hairy fronds measure some two or three
inches in length, by an inch or less in breadth; in
outline they are lanceolate or ovate-pointed.
Hi. asplenioides, from tropical America, is easily
recognisable by its peculiar habit of growth; it has
rather large pendulous fronds, oblong in general
outline, and pinnatifid to within a short distance of
the rachis; the stipe is from one to two inches
long, and the frond from two to four inches long, by
half an inch to an inch broad.
H. ciliatum is very widely distributed throughout
the tropical regions of both hemispheres, and has
lately been found in New Zealand; it is a free-
growing, handsome species, with fringed and
winged stipes, one or two inches long, and oblong-
acuminate, tripinnatifid fronds, two to six inches
long, and one to two inches broad at the centre; a
magnificent variety of this, splendidwm, which occurs
in Guatemala, Ecuador, and west tropical Africa,
has fronds a foot in length.
H. demissum is one of the most beautiful species
of the genus, as well as one of the easiest to manage ;
the firm, erect, wingless stipes are from four to six
inches long, and the finely cut ovate-triangular
fronds, which are light green when young and a
very dark glossy green when mature, measure from
four to twelve inches or more in length, by three or
four inches in breadth. It is a native of New
Zealand, Fiji, Java, the Philippines, and adjacent
Polynesian Islands.
H. fiabellatum, from Australia, New Zealand, and
Lord Auckland Isles, is a near ally of the last-
named. It has glistening, glossy green, ovate-
pointed, thrice-cut fronds, from four to twelve
inches long, by two to four inches broad.
H. fuciforme is a strikingly distinct species, from
South Chili and Juan Fernandez. It has strong,
erect stipes, four to eight inches long, narrowly
winged above; and beautiful, bluish-green, wavy,
triangular lance-shaped, thrice-cut fronds, one to
two feet in length, by four to six inches in breadth.
H. hirsutum, a native of tropical America and
Madagascar, &c., has once-cut, hairy, linear-oblong
fronds, two to six inches long, by half an inch
broad. It forms a dense, compact carpet of delicate
fronds, of a peculiar brownish-green hue.
Hf. lineare has flaccid, pendulous, long, narrow
fronds, and forms densely interlaced masses on rocks
and trees. Itisa native of tropical America, from
Jamaica and Mexico, southward to Brazil and
Peru, ascending on the Andes of Ecuador to 12,000
feet, and also occurs in the Mauritius.
Hf. polyanthemos has slender, wingless stipes, two
or three inches long, arid thrice-cut, ovate-oblong,
smooth, dark green fronds two to eight inches long,
by one to three inches broad. It is found every-
where throughout the tropics.
HI. pulcherrimum is a very handsome New Zea-
land species, with ample, finely-cut, firm, bright
green, glossy fronds, ovate-triangular:in outline,
ard measuring from six to twelve inches or more in
length, by four to six inches in breadth.
Hf. tunbridgense, once abundant at Tunbridge
Wells, is widely distributed throughout the British
Islands; the extra-British distribution is Belgium,
France, Germany, Italy, Canaries, and south tem-
perate regions. It has an ovate frond, pinnate
below and pinnatifid above, with spreading spinulose-
serrate pinne, and toothed involucre.
The other British species, H. wnilaterale, has more
rigid, darker green fronds, which are oblong in out-
line, pinnate below or throughout, with decurved
spinulose-serrate pinnules, and entire involucre. It
occupies about the same geographical area as the
last-named.
Cultivation.—Undoubtedly the essential require-
ments of filmy ferns are a fair amount of light with
continuous and absolute protection from every ray
of direct sunshine, and an atmosphere constantly at
288 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
saturation point. Soil, &c., is quite a secondary
consideration, and all the species above-mentioned—
although some of them hail from tropical climes —
are accommodating enough with regard to tempera-
ture, with the exception, perhaps, of H. asplenioides
and H. hirsutum, which do better under warm-house
treatment. None should be watered overhead, as
the fronds discolour when such a course is followed,
but luxuriate and retain their beautiful colour for
three or four years when each is almost always
laden with the condensed moisture of the atmosphere
in which they grow. Draughts of dry air should be
rigorously guarded against, as a
few minutes’ exposure to such
conditions would probably prove
fatal to the wonderfully delicate
pellucid fronds. Nota few species
require no artificial heat what-
ever, and the number of these
would probably be increased were
experiments conducted to prove
their hardiness.
Some of the finest specimens of
filmy ferns in existence (in culti-
vation) are in the possession of a
leading London surgeon, and are
grown under — at first sight —
unpromising conditions. Nothing,
however, can exceed the beauty
of these plants, which for some
years have had no artificial heat
whatever. ‘The fronds are never
wetted overhead—although always
covered with condensed moisture
—and no air is ever given except
when watering is being per-
formed, and when other necessary work is being
attended to. During the hot summer days a spray
of water is kept playing on the outside of the shaded
roof, and this, by keeping the iron-work and glass
cool, prevents the temperature from rising to any
great extent.
Most of the Hymenophyllums succeed admirably
on fibrous tree-fern stems (such as those of Dicksonia)
—into which it is advisable to rub a little fine peat
before wiring on the slender rhizomes. Some do
thoroughly well on blocks of wood or on pieces of
sandstone. The British species do very well grown,
together with the small Mosses amongst which they
are found in a state of nature, against a wall of
peat, &c., to which they must be securely and firmly
fastened by wire-netting or some such contrivance.
Not a few of the species have been, and are now,
cultivated by a letter-carrier in one of our large
cities, without any properly-constructed case at all.
Barrels, &c., plunged in a piece of ground behind his
H. TUNBRIDGENSE.
dwelling, covered with sheets of glass, and of course
shaded from direct sunlight, furnish quarters in
which splendid plants have been grown, specimens
which it would often be difficult to match in esta-
blishments where unlimited means are available.
Unlikely as it may appear, the finest fronds of
H, tunbridgense probably ever produced in England
are to be seen in the window-case of a dwelling-
house on the shady side of a crowded London
thoroughfare. The residence in question is that of
the surgeon above-mentioned, who has made filmy
ferns and their requirements a special study. The
same gentleman has H. demissum
precisely similar circumstances.
The window-cases used are to all
intents and purposes ordinary
ones, the only point in which they
differ from those in every-day use
being that they are double-glazed.
This double-glazing of course does
a great deal to maintain an equable
temperature, a most important
matter in connection with filmy
fern cultivation. A good “many
of the species bear frost apparently
without any injury; a number of
them withstood 14° of frost at
Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons’, Chel-
sea, where for a whole fortnight
they were frozen into a solid block
of ice. When the thaw came they
were found in perfect health, much
better than plants of the same
species which had been kept in the
artificially-heated temperature of
another house. When watering, use a long-spouted
can, and take care not to wet the plants overhead; the
condensed moisture in which they revel will be free
from the mineral constituents which often prove so
injurious to the membranous fronds. Now and then
the mycelium of various fungi appears amongst the
fibrous roots of the tree-fern stems; this can as a
rule be got rid of by a careful dusting of flowers of
sulphur. Thrips are probably the insect pests which
prove the most troublesome; but careful fumigating,
repeated several times if necessary, will be found
to extirpate them. If the cases, &c., in which the
plants are growing are placed inside a green-house,
fill the latter with smoke and then remove the lids,
&c., of the filmy fern cases. Sometimes, in spite
of the densely moisture-laden atmosphere, the red
spider makes its appearance; submerging the entire
plants for twelve or twenty-four hours in soft rain-
water will kill this insect, without injuring the
plants. Such treatment, however, proved ineffectual
in magnificent -condition under ~
FERNS. 289
with thrips, as a recent experiment showed that-
submersion for twenty-four hours apparently had no
effect; the little creatures were particularly lively
and active after the trial to which they had been
subjected.
Practically speaking, Hymenophyllums are not
raised from spores. It is true that one very success-
ful grower has succeeded in raising plants of two or
three species from spores, but the method is an
exceedingly slow one. Vigorous growers are readily
A
Wires
From Hymenophyllum it principally differs in the
involucre being urn-shaped and not split lengthwise
into two valves. In both the spore-cases are clus-
tered around hair-like receptacles, which are, in fact,
the ends of the veins of the fronds projecting into
the urns. In Trichomanes it is usual for these
slender columnar receptacles to protrude more or
less, so that the fronds become somewhat bristly
when very full of fructification, and hence has arisen
the common name of Bristle Fern, On the other
Whitty x
INN ZA MW
yy,
hy
TRICHOMANES RENIFORME.
propagated by means of the numerous thread-like
rhizomes ; and some of the species, if the old fronds
are fastened down on a moist surface, become proli-
ferous, and develop plantlets which can be removed
when large enough, and grown on. As arule, the
plants offered for sale by nurserymen are imported
ones, and these require somewhat different treatment
from their arrival until they become established.
Much less light is desirable until the rhizomes begin
to push out new fronds, when the plants may be
gradually inured to the conditions which are found
suitable for their established congeners.
The Trichomanes.—In common with Hymeno-
phyllum, Trichomanes holds a high position in the
estimation of fern-lovers. The beautifully-cut and
pellucid fronds are different in texture and general
appearance from those of almost all other genera.
43
hand, these hairs are shorter than the involucre
in Hymenophyllum. There are many filmy ferns
which cannot be referred to either genera with any
degree of certainty without fructification.
In the “Synopsis Filicum” above ninety species
of Trichomanes are described ; they are principally
natives of tropical and damp warm climates, the only
European representative being the Killarney Fern,
T. radicans. The species mentioned below are the
most distinct now in cultivation.
STOVE SPECIES.
A number of these, formerly supposed to be
exclusively stove kinds, have been found to do
better in a cooler temperature; they will be men-
tioned among the cool-house sorts. Those kept
under the above heading have not hitherto, I be-
lieve, been successfully cultivated except in structures
290 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
with a minimum temperature of 60°. Perhaps
further trials might still further lessen the number of
the warm-house species, and prove that with a little
care most of the stove Trichomanes might be gradu-
ally inured to, and succeed better with, green-house
treatment.
T. apiifolium is a very beautiful and rare species,
with finely-cut fronds somewhat resembling those of
T. maximum in general outline, but the habit is
more graceful and the texture more delicate ; the in-
lanceolate pinnate or pinnatifid fronds four to iwélyo
inches long by one and a half to two inches broad.
In texture these are membranaceous, the pinne are
generally incurved and crisped, and the rachis is
more or less clothed with reddish-brown hairs.
This species is widely distributed throughout tro-
pical America, and has also been found in western
tropical Africa.
T. Bancroftii, from which it is distinguished by its
more creeping rhizome and more divided fronds; it
TRICHOMANES RADICANS.
volucres, too, are smaller and shorter, verging upon
those of the Hymenophyllum. In fully-developed
fronds, the strong erect fibrillose stipes measure
four or six inches in length, and the frond itself nine
to eighteen inches long by four to eight inches broad.
This species is now and then met with under the
name of TJ. meifoliwm, and is a native of the Philip-
pine Islands, Java, Polynesia, and Norfolk Island.
T. Banecroftii is a distinct and pretty species from
the West Indian Islands and tropical America
southward to Brazil and Peru. It has firm-textured,
dark green, ovate-oblong fronds, from three to six
inches long by about an inch broad; the rachis is
broadly winged and so is the stipe to the very base.
T. crispum has a strong, tomentose rhizome; strong,
wiry, tomentose stipes two to six inches long, and
is a native of Trinidad, Demerara, and the northern
provinces of Brazil, and succeeds almost equally well
under stove or cool-house treatment. TZ. Priewrii is
a noble species with stout tufted stipes four to eight
inches long, and broadly-ovate, finely-cut fronds
twelve to eighteen inches in length by from six to
twelve inches in breadth; it is a native of the West
Indian Islands southward to Peru and Brazil.
T. spicatum is the only representative mentioned in
these pages of a small section, Féea—regarded as a
distinct genus by some authorities—in which the
sterile and the fertile fronds are different, the latter
consisting of a narrow distichous spike. The dark
ereen sterile fronds measure from four to six inches
in length by one to one and a half in breadth, and
are pinnatifid nearly to the rachis. —
TL. macilentum is a near ally of.
eee ee
FERNS. | 291
COOL-HOUSE SPECIES.
T. alatum, from the West Indies, Columbia, and
Brazil, is a handsome species with lanceolate or
ovate-lanceolate, twice or thrice-cut fronds of a deli-
cately membranaceous texture; it has tufted stipes
two to four inches long, the fronds measuring from
three to twelve inches long by one to four inches
broad. In size and amount of hairiness this varies
a great deal; the larger-growing forms make very
beautiful specimen plants. TZ. auriculatum has a
strong, wide-creeping, hairy rhizome, and nearly
sessile, twice-cut, olive-green, firm-textured fronds,
six to twelve inches in length by one and a half to
two inches in breadth; it is a native of Japan,
Formosa, North Hindostan, the Philippines, Java,
and Guiana. T. exsectum, an elegant species from
South Chili, Chiloe, and Juan Fernandez, has a
widely -creeping, slender, tomentose rhizome, and
slender naked stipes one to three inches long, with
finely-cut, lanceolate, pendent, flaccid fronds of a
membranaceous texture; in size these vary from
six to twelve inches in length by one or two inches
in breadth. TZ. maximum is a noble plant with very
finely-divided sub-rigid fronds, which are ovate in
outline, and measure from a foot to a foot and a half
in length by six to nine inches in breadth; the
creeping rhizome is stout and the stipes are strong
and erect, varying from three to six inches in length.
This species is a native of Java, Borneo, and the
Polynesian Islands. Extremely unlike any of the
species hitherto mentioned is Z. parvulum, a charm-
ing little plant which was first exhibited a few years
ago by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons at one of the
London shows; it has small, dark green fronds—
orbicular in general outline—measuring from .a
quarter to half an inch across. ‘These are cut into
narrow irregular segments, and are produced in pro-
fusion from the wide-creeping interlacing rhizome ;
the plant thrives on pieces of porous stone. 7,
Petersii, a tiny species which is at present somewhat
rare in cultivation, has crenate or slightly-lobed
fronds—varying in shape from linear to obovate—
which make a dense carpet of dark green on the
moist porous stones on which the plant luxuriates.
The only locality given for this species in the
“Synopsis Filicum” is “near a waterfall in Winston
co., Alabama, U.S.A.” TZ. pyxidiferum, a variable
species found everywhere throughout the tropics of
both hemispheres, is perhaps one of the most widely-
cultivated members of the genus; it has widely-
creeping, rather slender, tomentose rhizomes, and
ovate-oblong, thrice-cut fronds, one to six inches
long by an inch to one anda half broad. Perhaps
of all filmy ferns the Killarney Fern, 7. rudicans, is
cultivated by the greatest number of gardeners,
amateur and professional. It has a remarkably wide
geographical distribution, being found in West
Europe, tropical Africa and America, Himalaya,
Japan, and Polynesia. In the last edition of the
“‘Student’s Flora,” the distribution of the series in
the British Isles is given as follows: “‘ Wet shaded
' rocks, Killarney, York, S. Wales, Argyll, Arran.” In
all probability the Bristle Fern no longer exists in
some of the localities just mentioned, owing to the
destructive zeal of collectors. TZ. radicans varies
somewhat in a wild state even in this country, and
to a great extent in the tropics, one of the more dis-
tinct of the numerous named forms which must be
referred as varieties to T. radicans being T. Luschna-
tianum, a handsome plant with lanceolate pointed,
quite sessile fronds.
T. reniforme, with its peculiar kidney -shaped
entire fronds, is quite different in habit and general
aspect from all the other species of the genus. It is
a native of New Zealand, and is the only Trichomanes
in which the frond has four layers of cellules. One
of the most graceful and delicate of all is 7. trichoi-
deum, with thrice-cut, bright green, membranaceous
fronds, the pinnules being cut into distant hair-like
segments. When each segment bears at its tip a
drop of condensed moisture the aspect of the plant is
very beautiful. It is a native of the West Indian
Islands and Mexico southward to Ecuador and
Brazil.
Cultivation.—In a wild state Trichomanes grow
under very varying conditions in some respects,
though humidity and shade are in all cases pre-
sent. Some affect wet rocks, others stems of
various ferns and trees, whilst a few grow luxu-
riantly in strong loam. Under the widely dif-
ferent conditions which obtain artificially, these
latter do best in a pot or pan thoroughly drained
and filled with a mixture of loam, peat, pieces
of charcoal, porous stone, &c. ‘Those, like TZ.
trichoideum, &c., which seem to thrive best on
tree-fern stems, should have their delicate rhizomes
carefully attached to a portion of Dicksonia stem,
amongst the roots of which peat has been rubbed.
Others, of which TZ. macilentum, T. alatum, and
T. Luschnatianum may be regarded as representa-
tives, thrive in pots or pans on a raised mound of
Sphagnum, or on tree-fern trunks on which living
Sphagnum has been bound. None of the species
should be watered overhead ; the case or structure in
which the plants are grown should be so liberally
supplied with water that the fronds are constantly
laden with the condensed moisture. Direct sunlight
should always be excluded; it has, however, been
abundantly proved that established healthy plants
do better in a good light than with dense shading.
Most of the remarks on Hymenophyllum cultivation
are equally applicable to Trichomanes.
292
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS.
By RicHarp DEAN.
-The Pelargonium. — The common name of
Geranium has been erroneously applied to this
genus, but usage has gained such a hold upon the
flower-loving public that the Pelargoniums will be
known as Geraniums for years to come. The generic
named Pelargonium is derived from pelargos, a stork,
referring to the beak-like formation of the ripe seed-
pod. The common name is Stork’s Bill, but it is
seldom used because that of Geranium has been so
extensively employed. There are an immense
number of species and varieties in cultivation, all
green-house plants, some biennials and annuals,
some herbaceous, some tuberous-rooted, and some
evergreen shrubs, nearly all of which came from the
Cape of Good Hope. A large number of the Cape
species and varieties are still grown; but their cul-
tivation is confined mainly to those who make a
speciality of them. They form a very interesting
group of plants, the flowers of most of them being
comparatively small in size, but often very brilliant
in colour. The leaves of many are beautifully
sub-divided, almost fern-like in character ; those of
others are deliciously fragrant. Pelargoniwn zonale,
the common Scarlet Geranium of our gardens, the
Horse-shoe or Zonal Stork’s Bill, appears to have
been introduced into this country about the year
1710; and Pelargonium inquinans, the Staining or
Scarlet Stork’s Bill, about 1714. It is believed that
the modern Zonal Pelargonium has resulted from the
blending of these two species.
The very fine and showy forms of what are known
as the Large-flowered or Show Pelargoniums, and
the Fancy or Ladies’ Pelargoniums, have, no doubt,
by means of careful fertilisation and cross-breed-
ing, sprung from the comparatively insignificant-
flowered species indigenous to the Cape of Good
Hope. - How and when they originated it is very
difficult to state. Careful selection and successful
culture have done much; raisers in different parts
of the country have vied with each other in the pro-
duction of higher forms of excellence ; the names of
Catleugh, Dobson, Beck, Hoyle, Foster, Gaines, and
Turner deserve a record in this relation. We re-
member the Large-flowered Pelargonium of thirty-
five years ago: the flowers small, ill-formed, and
wanting in brilliancy of colour; to-day we have
flowers of amazing size, perfect form, and brilliant
hues. So successfully indeed have they been im-
proved, that it seems difficult to imagine anything of
a more advanced character.
The Fancy or Ladies’ Pelargoniums are a more
delicate race, not so robust in constitution, and
needing a little different treatment during winter
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. ‘3
from the more vigorous large-flowered varieties.
But they are wonderfully free of bloom; the
blossoms are finely formed, and generally of much
more delicate colours. Their culture is more re-
stricted than that of the show types.
Large-flowered or Show Pelargoniums. — Beautiful
as these are, and so well adapted for green-house
cultivation, it is yet a fact that they are rarely so
successfully grown as they might be. We seldom
see healthy, clean, good-habited plants in gardens.
We too frequently see weak spindling specimens that
appear as if they were greatly neglected. Let us
endeavour to show how good specimen plants can be
grown if only they be carefully attended to at the
proper time; and by following the development of
the plant from the cutting stage until it has reached
a size qualifying it for decorative or exhibition pur-
poses, we Shall thus see the advance and necessary
treatment at all stages.
Any nurseryman who makes a speciality of the
Pelargonium does the greatest part of the work of
propagation by means of cuttings in the autumn.
When the plants have gone out of flower, they
are stood ina cold frame, or out in the open air,
until the wood becomes hardened or ripened, then
the plants are cut back somewhat hard, according to
their age; if one or two years old, the main stems
are left two or three inches long; if they are older,
five or six inches long or even more, according to the
probabilities as to whether the shortened branches
will break again back to the trunk of the plant or
not. Out of the wood so cut away, cuttings can be
made; every single joint that is matured will make
a cutting, and this cutting will be pretty certain to
throw two shoots from the eye, one on either side of
the stem. The rule with cultivators is to break
away the weakest shoot, leaving the strongest, so as
to make a good sturdy plant. But we are, perhaps,
anticipating. Some persons put their cuttings
round the sides of a five-inch pot; others make up a
bed in a cold frame and press them firmly into the
soil in lines. "Where only a few cuttings are raised
it is perhaps best to place them singly in three-
inch pots, in all cases using a light compost in which
sand and fine leaf-soil play an important part. The
readiest way to root is by placing the pots of cuttings
in a gentle heat, and as soon as they show signs of
having rooted they should be removed to a cooler
house, and gradually hardened off. Then a shift
should be given into four-inch pots. This done, and
a few days allowed for the plants to become esta-
blished, the shoot, when it is about four inches in
length, should be stopped by pinching out the tip;
the result being that it will make three or four
breaks, which will be quite enough of leading shoots
the first season, if the grower would like the plants
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 293
to carry good flowers. Every time the plant is re-
potted the stem should be placed a little deeper in
the soil, as it not only imparts strength to it, but
prevents to some extent growths coming up from the
roots. The last shift should be into a five-inch pot,
and in this it may be allowed to flower. It is
surprising what a fine plant can be produced
in a five-inch pot. We have seen specimens in
Covent Garden Market in this size pot, having six
and eight leading shoots, and carrying splendid
heads of bloom; but these are grown by market
growers, and they give such plants special treatment
which cannot be given by ordinary cultivators.
Now should an amateur cultivator require a
specimen plant, say for exhibition next season, the
cultural process must vary a little. It should again be
shifted from a five-inch into a seven-inch pot, which
will cause it to break freely but flower late. But
the flowers will be smaller in consequence. Never-
theless, there is obtained a sufficient number of eyes
to form a fine large plant for the following season.
When the bottoms become two or three years old
they will require a little different treatment. They
must be shifted into their blooming-pots a little
earlier; those intended for flowering in May must
not be stopped at all; those for flowering in June and
July should be stopped once in February.
Successful culture depends so much on little atten-
tions constantly rendered—such points as compost,
shifting, stopping, tying-out, syringing, fumigating,
&c.; and experience is a most valuable teacher.
Young beginners can scarcely hope to succeed all at
once ;- but patience and perseverance can accomplish
much, and let the cultivator always bear in mind
that thorough cleanliness in every stage is most
important, enhancing the beauty and quality of the
flowers,
Soil is a very important matter in the culture of
this useful class of plants. That used by the leading
exhibitors of Pelargoniums is a compost made up of
rich fibrous loam, stable dung, and a little cow-dung,
laid by a year previous to become thoroughly rotten:
these are well mixed together, and frequently turned
before using, and when employed for potting pur-
poses, some good leaf-mould and sufficient silver
sand to make the whole gritty are added. A little
experience is of use in the proper mixing of this
compost, this being a detail that is soon picked up.
in the course of practice in cultivation.
Fancy Pelargoniums.—These are of much more
compact growth than the Show or Large-flowering
varieties; they are much freer in blooming, and a
little more delicate in constitution. The general
treatment of Show varieties suits Fancy varieties
pretty well, but they do not strike so freely as the
others, and they root best when the cuttings are
made in early spring from half-ripened shoots.
The plants grow more slowly also, and they require
to be kept warmer during the winter, but care is
necessary that the shoots do not become drawn and
lanky. Care must also be taken that they do not
have too much water at the roots; of this they are
very impatient.
A successful cultivator and exhibitor of Fancy
Pelargoniums states, in regard to this charming
class of plants, that ‘they may be grown to almost
any size by keeping the house moist and warm;
the plants like a little warmth, but plenty of air
should be given all day when it can be done, and the
plants should have plenty of room, else the foliage
becomes drawn. The peculiar nature of the growth
of the plant is to crowd it with shoots; therefore, in
the case of specimens, the outside branches should
be tied out to give the centre shoots all the room
possible. In potting, the plants need to be kept
higher in the pots than the large-flowering varieties,
so that what is termed the ‘collar’ of the plant be
kept level with the surface of the mould. Great
attention should be paid to watering. It is better
to find six plants too dry than one too wet. There is
a remedy for the first evil, but none for the latter.
The roots, being of a much finer character than
those of the more robust large-flowering sorts,
cannot endure an excess of moisture.” We may
add that Fancy Pelargoniums, being so free of
bloom, are well adapted for making the stage of the
tlowering house very gay. The last time for repot-
ting should be regulated by the month in which the
cultivator wishes to have the plants at their best.
If early flowers are required, the plants should have
their last shift not later than October, and they
should not be allowed too much root-room in the
pots. A seven-inch pot is, as a general rule,
large enough, but something depends upon the
plants. If bloom is desired at a later period, the
specimens can be had at their best during the month
of July by giving them a good shift in March. To
retard the bloom of the plants, the points of the
shoots may be pinched out, and this is a desirable
plan when the specimens are thin of branches, as it
causes them to break into growth freely, making
large plants that flower later.
‘The soil for Fancy Pelargoniums differs from that
above recommended in that it is of advantage to mix
a little peat with it, and some broken oyster-shells.
Decorative Pelargoniums.—These represent a large
group of sturdy-growing Pelargoniums of good habit
and profuse flowering, that are well adapted for de-
corative purposes in green-houses, conservatories,
and sitting-rooms. The flowers are not so well
formed generally as those of the large-flowering
type, but not a few of them make fine exhibition
294
plants. Many of the varieties are of Continental
origin. The colours of the flowers are in not a few
instances bright and striking, and some of them have
the petals handsomely fringed. These are very at-
tractive, and great favourites. Their robustness of
habit is greatly in their favour, and we may truly
say of them that they are all good growers. There
are a few double or semi-double varieties, and these
possess this advantage, that they are much more
durable while in flower than those having single
blossoms.
Those of our readers who have attended one of the
large summer exhibitions of the Royal Botanic
Society in the Regent’s Park, or the exhibitions of
the Royal Horticultural Society at South Kensington,
or at the Crystal Palace, will have noticed the fine
specimens of Large-flowered, Fancy, and Decorative
Pelargoniums, sometimes measuring four and five
feet in diameter. These are from two to five years
old. ‘They are grown by experienced cultivators
who give them daily attention; the shoots are
carefully tied out as they lengthen, and the utmost
care is taken to keep them in the very best condition.
Light and airy houses are required in which to grow
them. When one of these fine plants is cut down,
at the end of the summer, the frame of the specimen
is some two feet or so across. It then breaks into
growth, is taken out from the pot, the soil is quite
removed from the roots, they are carefully trimmed,
and re-potted in smaller pots, and a dash of silver
sand is placed about the roots. These cleansed roots
put forth fine fibres, and the plants are made new
again.
It is not an uncommon practice, in order to insure
large and vigorous-growing specimens of Fancy
Pelargoniums for exhibition, to graft them on free-
growing stocks of large-flowering varieties. Grafting
is done early in September, the stock being in
advance of the scion in respect of growth, and the
grafted plants are stood on a shaded border until
union is complete. Grafting when done by an ex-
perienced operator is invariably successful.
During autumn and winter the plants will need
special attention by occasionally stirring the surface
of the soil, and keeping them free from green-fly,
and in all respects healthy. But little fire-heat will
be necessary except the weather is very severe; as
much air as possible must be given on all favourable
occasions, and everything should be done that will
tend to keep the plants sturdy, short-jointed, and
the wood stout and robust. We have already stated
tbat the Fancy varieties require more warmth during
the winter. The cultivator need not be alarmed at
losing a few of the bottom leaves, as this is a sign
of the wocd ripening, and the more thoroughly the
stems are ripened so will the quality of the flower
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. 3
be improved the following season. We cannot
attach too much importance to the thorough ripening
of the wood when the plant goes out of flower and
loses its leaves.
Now let us revert to the plants in four-inch pots.
We will assume that they have been grown care-
fully, kept clean from vermin, and that they have
flowered well. Then they should be stood out of
doors to thoroughly ripen their wood. When this |
is accomplished they should be cut back, leaving a
symmetrical ‘‘ bottom,”’ as the growers term it, and
then kept rather short of water for a time. Then
they will break into growth, and as soon as they
show their first two leaves, the plants should be
turned out of the pots, the roots trimmed, and the
plants potted in pots only just large enough to take ~
the roots. The plants should be placed in a green-
house, and as soon as they are established the —
shoots will grow. They should be stopped, and soon ~
after shifted into a twenty-four or sixteen size pot,
according to the dimensions of the plants, doing this
about the end of October or early in November. The
plants should now be placed on a light; airy shelf in
a green-house, where they can be preserved from
frost. They must not be allowed to be stopped any
more. By-and-by, in spring, the shoots should be
tied out to stakes so as to keep a good shape to
the plants; and as the days lengthen and become
warmer, they should be lightly syringed over, and |
some weak liquid manure given occasionally. Those
who require to have their plants in bloom at the end
of June and in July would do well to re-pot again in ~
December, and stop them once more in January. —
These plants must be kept as cool as possible, and
after April be frequently syringed. During the time —
they are in bloom the plants must be shaded from —
the sun, plenty of air given, and any injury from ~
damp must be guarded against. All dead leaves and ©
flowers must be kept removed from the plants
Zonal or Bedding Pelargoniums.—The various forms
of Zonal or Bedding Pelargoniums are from P. zonale, |
the Horse-shoe or Zonal Stork’s Bill, introduced to (
this country about 1710; and no doubt the blood of —
P. inguinans, introduced four years later, has been
found of great assistance in imparting fresh and
decided characters’ to seedlings. They have been
found of great value for bedding purposes and pot
culture, and hundreds of varieties have been raised, ~
named, and distributed. At the present time there
must be several hundred varieties in cultivation ; and —
new forms are announced every year, though not so-
numerously as a few years ago. Then this very
useful plant took a surprising hold upon the public
mind, and for several seasons it was all the rage.
It was largely used for masses and ribbon lines in
flower gardens; but since the system of bedding out, |
ae ee
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 295
in which the Zonal Pelargoniums played so impor-
tant a part, has been, to a large extent, abandoned, it
is now much more grown in pots for green-house
decoration, and especially for flowering during the
autumn and winter. All through the autumn and
winter months, fine young plants of Zonal Pelargo-
‘miums raised from cuttings taken the previous
spring will bloom freely, but to do so should be
grown by themselves in small, warm, airy houses
where the plants can have plenty of light and a
dry warm atmosphere. Messrs. Henry Cannell and
Son, the well-known florists at Swanley in Kent,
have been foremost in showing how well adapted the
Zonal Pelargonium is for flowering in winter, and it
is their practice to exhibit during the dark months
bunches of flowers of marvellous size, great beauty,
and wonderful colouring. They have adopted the
practice of running a hot-water pipe round their
houses, above the plant stage, and level with the
flowers. This gives just the dry warm atmosphere
required to produce the flowers in such splendid
form. As a matter of course they are well attended |
to in all other respects.
Some years ago the late Mr. Donald Beaton raised
a race of Zonal Pelargoniums that were designated
“ Nosegays,”” because they produced very large
trusses of bloom, but the individual flowers were
much smaller and less perfect in form than in the
case of the newer Zonal types. What crosses were
used by Mr. Beaton has never been stated; but this
section soon- became very popular, especially for
bedding purposes, as they were generally very pro-
fuse of bloom. Several raisers turned their attention
to the improvement of this section, and by crossing
the varieties with some of the better-formed Zonals
an advance in point of form was secured; but the
trusses retained the nosegay character. Eventually
a section was formed, termed Hybrid Nosegays; but
now so closely interwoven are the Zonal and Nose-
gay types that they cannot be separated. The
greatest credit is due to the late Mr. J. R. Pearson,
of the Chilwell Nurseries, Nottingham, for the
admirable work he did (which his successors are
continuing) in the way of improving the Hybrid
Nosegay section. He gave us good habits of growth,
robust constitution, large trusses of flowers of the
most approved form, novel and distinct colours, and
the utmost freedom of blooming.
All the varieties of the Zonal section can be propa-
gated with the greatest ease. Gardeners, who have
to provide a large quantity of plants, take their
cuttings in July and August, and put them intoa
sandy soil forming a bed made up in the open
ground, or in boxes of light sandy soil which are
stood in the openair. They quickly root, when they
are potted off, one or several in a pot, to winter, or
they are kept in the cutting-boxes all the winter.
Or cuttings can be stuck in pots; and these can be
taken at any season of the year; but late summer
and spring are the best. In regard to wintering
Zonal Pelargoniums, damp is one of the greatest
enemies to their well-being; if only the plants can.
be kept warm, fairly dry, and free from damp, they
will winter in safety. They will not require a great
deal of water, but they must not be allowed to be-
come dust-dry, unless some frosty weather prevails.
When planted out in beds and borders, Zonal
Pelargoniums should not have too rich a soil, or they
grow too much to foliage. On the other hand, too
poor a soil results in starvation, and this should be
avoided. A richer soil is needed when the plants
are grown in pots; it is when the plants get
somewhat pot-bound that they flower best, and
then they need a little stimulus in the way of
weak manure-water.
There is now quite a large group of double-
flowered Zonals of various colours. The flowers of
the single varieties are not very lasting, and it is
customary, when cultivators exhibit plants, to drop |
a little liquid gum into the centre of the flowers,
which makes them much more durable. This is also
done in the case of cut flowers sent to the market for
sale. None of the single Pelargoniums are lasting in
a cut state, and thus a little gum, carefully applied,
considerably prolongs the freshness of the flowers.
The double varieties are much more persistent, and
this is why they are taking the place of the single
Zonal for all cut purposes. They are also largely
used for house decoration, and exhibition purposes,
and it must be admitted they are most valuable.
They are of great variety of colour: crimson and
scarlet, purple, mauve and lilac, cerise, pink and
salmon, rose-pink, flesh-coloured and white. We
cannot too highly commend them to the attention of
our readers.
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums.—These represent a well-
known and most useful section, the varieties being
the offspring of P. peltatum, or P. lateripes ; the
true Ivy-leaved varieties are of trailing habit, and
are chiefly used for vases and borderings out of
doors. Of late years a valuable race of hybrids
has been obtained by crossing the finely - formed
Zonal varieties with a view of obtaining higher
quality in the flowers. The results have been most
satisfactory, and that without affecting to any great
extent the trailing character common to the species.
There are now in cultivation Hybrid Ivy-leaved
Pelargoniums with flowers so striking in point of
size and colour as to be surprising. Double forms
are also produced, catalogues are rich in these, and
they make excellent decorative plants. The Pelar-
gonium Society (now unhappily defunct) made a
296 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
practice of offering prizes for specimen Ivy-leaved
Pelargoniums, and plants were produced, mainly
grown as pyramids, large in size, finely cultivated,
and covered with flowers. For warm green-house and
conservatory decoration they are invaluable. Ivy-
leaved Pelargoniums require warmer treatment than
the ordinary Zonals; they should have a free open
soil, and the pots should be well drained. Cuttings
will strike readily in a little heat in spring or in
early autumn.
Variegated-leaved Pelargoniums.—There is a large
group of these divided into several sections. There
are, first, the Variegated Zonals, or Tricolours, of
which there are Golden-edged and Silver-edged-leaved
types. ‘Then there are the ordinary Silver-leaved
varieties, the green leaves being broadly edged with
silver, cream, and white. Then there are the Gold
and Bronze, or Bicolours, in which the leaves are
golden, with rich, bronzy zones. All the varieties of
these sections are of the Zonal race, but the Bicolours
are all of more vigorous growth. Then there are
a few Variegated-leaved varieties of the Ivy-leaved
section that are very useful for bedding purposes.
It would appear that Variegated Pelargoniums
were known in this country nearly two centuries
ago. One of the oldest known was Mangles’ Varie-
gated; then came, after a considerable interval,
Lee’s Variegated, and it is from this latter that Mr.
Kinghorn succeeded, in 1848, in raising the well-
known variety called Flower of the Day, which
is still to be found in gardens. Soon after the in-
troduction of this very useful bedding variety—viz.,
in 1850—the same raiser originated what may be
considered as the first Silver Tricolour-leaved Pelar-
gonium, which received the name of Attraction, and
was followed by Countess of Warwick, another of
Mr. Kinghorn’s seedlings. Then Mr. Grieve and
others became interested in the work. Several new
varieties were obtained, until Italia Unita was pro-
duced, in which a marked advance was shown. So far
the variegation had been cream or white. In 1844 ap-
peared a variety named Golden Chain, and this had
golden-margined leaves; but it is generally supposed
to have originated twenty years previously. Then
followed a series of varieties culminating in that
beautiful and useful variety known as Mrs. Pollock,
and from this came Sunset, Lucy Grieve, Mr.
Benyon, Lady Cullum, and others, raised by Mr. Peter
Grieve, Culford Hall, Bury St. Edmunds, which are
to be found in cultivation to this day. In the seedling
state all these were green-leaved forms, with a large
dark horse-shoe zone. When they reached a certain
stage of development variegation began to appear,
and presently the whole plant changed to this cha-
racter. This peculiarity is always noted in the case
of seedling Tricolours.
Soon after the introduction of the Golden Varie-.
gated Zonals, there appeared an entirely new tribe
of Zonal Pelargoniums, designated Gold and Bronze
or Bicolour Zonals. The disc and margin presented
a uniform yellow, bright in some, dull in others, or
rather of a pale green colour, showing off to great
advantage the brown or cinnamon-coloured zone.
These were greatly improved, the golden-green leaf
character becoming more golden, and the zones
brighter in colour; and being generally of robust
habit, they made excellent bedding plants, and be-
came very popular.
Respecting the culture of the Tricolours, most of
which make good bedding plants, it may be stated —
that they require a rich, hight soil. They are not
quite so hardy as the ordinary Zonals, and when
used in the open air they should be planted a little
later. Cuttings of these root less rapidly than do
those of the common Zonals. They should be made
from well-ripened wood, and put singly into small
pots in July and August, keeping them in a gentle
warmth. ‘The Silver Tricolours should have a poorer
soil than the Golden ones, and they succeed best in
the open air when planted in raised beds. In pots
they need careful culture—never over-potting them ;
using clean pots, well drained; a light, rich soil; and
keeping the plants warm and free from damp. The
Gold and Bronze Zonals, being vigorous growers, can
have the same treatment as the ordinary bedding
Zonals.
Hybrid Pelargoniums.—There is a section of these
that, in all probability, have resulted from the cross-
ing of certain species that are well adapted for pot
culture and for bedding. We may mention Rollis-
son’s Unique, crimson, very fine; Lilac Unique ;
Shrubland Pet, rose-coloured; Picturatum grandi-
florum, white; and Lady Mary Fox, scarlet. These
are all charming in pots. ‘Then there are certain
Cape species, with their hybrids—the flower small,
but often produced in good trusses, and in many
cases brilliant in colour. Among them we may
mention Ardens, brilliant crimson; Blandfordianum,
with its pale green Oak-like foliage; Echinatum,
white, spotted red; and its fine hybrid varieties—
Spotted Gem, Rosy Morn, Beauty, Album multi-
florum, and Ariel; Fragrans, Schotti, &e. Any one
fond of species of Pelargoniums with scented leaves
will be charmed with Capitatum, Rose-scented ;
Citriodorum majus, Lemon-scented ; Apple-scented ;
Nutmeg-scented ; Prince of Orange, scented like an
Orange; Crispum, Citron-scented; and Odoratissi-
mum, richly fragrant, one of the best. |
Seedling Pelargoniums.—The peculiar fascination
and interest which attaches to the raising of seed-
ling flowers, induces some persons to raise seedling
Pelargoniums. It is necessary to raise the seeds in
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS,
heat, and they can be sown in summer as soon as
ripe, which is the best plan, or in the early spring.
In order that they may germinate successfully, the
seeds when sown should be placed in a temperature
of 50° to 60°, and they will soon germinate, and
when they are large enough to handle should be
potted off singly into small pots, or be placed four
or six in a five-inch pot, and when large enough
potted off—using a fine, light, sandy soil—in forty-
eight-sized pots. In this size of pot the plants should
be allowed to flower. When seed is sown in August
the plants will not flower until early summer follow-
ing; when sown in spring the plants will bloom the
same season if grown on into size with attention.
SELECTIONS OF PELARGONIUMS.
Lavge-floweved or Show Varieties.
Ambassador. Maid of Honour,
Amethyst. Margaret.
Brilliant. Martial,
Claribel. - Outlaw.
Confessor. Pericles.
Cornet. Retreat.
Despot. Royal Review.
Duke of Norfolk, Sunbeam.
Fortitude. The Baron,
Illuminator. Veteran.
Magnate. Virgin Queen,
Decorative and Spotted Varieties,
Captain Raikes (double).
Lady Isabel.
Carl Klein (double). Lucie Lemoine.
Decorator. Maid of Kent.
Digby Grand.
Dresden China.
Dr. Masters.
Duchess of Edinburgh.
Edward Perkins.
Formosa.
Gold Mine.
Kingston Beauty.
Marie Lemoine.
Mrs. John Hayes.
Prince of Novelties
(double).
QueenVictoria (double),
Triomphe de St. Mande.
Venus de Milo (double).
Volanté Nationale.
Fancy Varieties.
Miss Goddard.
Mrs. Alfred Wigan,
Mrs. Hart.
Mrs. Langtry.
Ambassadress.
Bridesmaid.
Cloth of Silver.
Countess of Dudley.
East Lynne. Nelly Fordham
Elien Beck. Pilgrimage.
Fanny Gair. Pr ncess Teck,
Indian Chief. The Shah.
_ Lady Carrington. Vivandiere.
Zonal and Nosegay Varieties (Single).
Lucy Bosworth
Mr. Chandler.
Mrs. George.
Mrs. Holden.
Alarm.
Bayard.
Charles Schwind.
David Thomson.
Dr. Denny. Mrs. Leavers.
Dr. Orton. Mrs. Moore.
Dreadnought. Nemesis.
Queen of the Belgians.
Ferdinand de Lesseps.
Rosa Little.
Future Fame.
Guinea. Snowdon.
John Gibbons. Sophie Birkin.
Lady Byron. Titania.
Lady Sheffield. Vesuvius.
Lizzie Brooks. White Clipper.
Lord Nelson.
Zonal Varieties (Double).
F, V. Raspail.
Guillon Mangilli.
Henri Cannell (Le-
moine),
Heroine.
Auguste Villaume.
Charles Darwin.
Depote Laflize.
Edward Lequin.
Emilie de Girardin,
297
Madame Michael Buch-
ner.
Madame Thiers.
Prince Noir.
Roi des Violettes.
Wonderful.
La Candeur.
Lord Mayor.
Louis Buchner.
Lucie Lemoine.
Madame A. Baltet.
Madame Lemoine.
Golden Tricolour Varieties.
E. R. Benyon. Mrs. Henry Cox.
Florence. Mrs. Pollock.
John Downie. Peter Grieve.
Lady Cullum, Prince of Wales.
Macbeth. Sophia Dumaresque.
Marie Stuart. William Sandy.
Silver Tricolour Varieties.
Dolly Varden. Mrs. Laing.
Minnie Warren, Mrs. Miller.
Miss Farren. Porteous.
Mrs. Clutton.
Prince Silverwings.
Mrs. Col. Wilkinson.
Princess Beatrice.
Gold and Bronze or Bicolours.
Black Douglas. Prince Henry.
Distinction. Prince of Prussia,
Effective. Regularity.
Joseph Kirkham. Swanley Bronze.
King of the Bronzes. White Distinction.
Maréchal McMahon, | Zulu,
Golden or Yellow-band Sections.
Creed’s Seedling.
Crystal Palace Gem.
Golden Chain.
Ivy-leaved Varieties (Double).
Abel Carriere.
Alice Crousse.
Comte H. de Choiseuil.
Docteur Ox.
Glo:re d’Orléans.
Isidore Feral.
Jeanne @’ Are.
Konig Albert.
Ivy-leaved Varieties (Single).
International,
Robert Fish,
Madame Crousse.
Madame HE. Galle.
Mdlle. Wouters.
Prince of Wales.
Souvenir de Charles
Turner.
Vesta.
Argus. Mon. de Boringe.
Diadem. Mon. Dubus.
La France. Mrs. H. Cannell.
Masterpiece. Progress.
Pentstemon.—This is one of the most useful
and showy of hardy perennials, and it is a plant
that has been marvellously improved of late years.
It is a plant of foreign introduction, and the name
is derived from pente, “ five,’ and stemon, “a stamen ””
—four fertile and one abortive stamen. It has no
common name other than that which heads this
article.
The Pentstemon represents a large genus of her-
baceous perennials, very ornamental and among the
prettiest of summer-flowering plants. Some of the
species are of a sub-shrubby habit, but they are
rarely grown now, having given place to a large lot
of fine plants'in the shape of seedlings raised from
P. Cobea, P. Hartwegii, P. gentianoides, and others, all
of which can be increased by means of cuttings and
seeds. The original P. Hartwegii produced flowers
of a kind of dullish crimson-purple, but seedlings
from it have developed many shades of colour,
from white to the deepest crimson aud purpie.
298
Some very fine species can still be found in old
gardens, such as P. ovatus, blue; P. barbatus and P.
Murrayanus, scarlet; P. digitalis, white; P. Jeffrey-
anus, blue, and others, which are grown by lovers of
select hardy perennials.
English as well as Continental raisers have done
good work in improving the Pentstemon. Year
after year new varieties have been raised until they
have come tO possess
vigorous habits of
growth, and to produce
large bold trusses of
flower of a singularly |
imposing character.
The Pentstemon can
be increased by means
of seeds and cuttings.
Any one with but slight
conveniences can raise
seedlings. One requires
only good seed and
good soil, and if a
pot, shallow box, or
pan be filled with the
latter, and the seeds
sowed thinly, they will
soon grow, provided
they are kept watered
as required and shaded
from the sun. ‘Those
who make a practice of
raising new varieties
of Pentstemons gener-
ally sow their seed in
heat about the month
of February, and when
the little plants are
large enough to handle
they are potted off,
either singly in small
pots, or two or three
plants placed round the
sides of a pot, grown
on into size, and then
planted out in a well-prepared bed about the end
of May, or earlier if the weather be favourable.
If the season is favourable to their doing well,
the main portion of the plants will flower in Sep-
tember. But as every lover of hardy flowers
may not have heat at his command, he must pro-
ceed more slowly, and the best thing he can do is
to sow his seed in March in a cold frame, bring on
his plants as soon and as strong as possible; and in
July or August avail himself of showery weather to
plant out in a bed, where the plants will stand the
winter and flower the following summer. The
PENTSTEMON GENTIANOIDES,
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
Pentstemon does well in a good sandy loam, enriched
with a little dung and leaf-soil, and in it they root
freely and strongly, and throw up strong spikes of
flower. While the Pentstemon isa hardy plant, it
suffers from too much wet during winter, and if
hard frost succeeds rain, many plants will suffer
or die. Therefore it is well to plant out on a dry
soil, but taking care the plants do not suffer for
. want of water during
the summer. It 18
also prudent to keep
_ a stock of
finest strains in store-
pits throughout the
winter.
Some seed should be
saved only from the
best varieties, and by
doing this a good strain
can be preserved.
The Pentstemon can
be increased by divi-
sion of the root and
by means of cuttings.
The former method is
seldom resorted to; the
latter is that generally
followed. Cuttings can
be had in plenty at
the end of the sum-
mer from the young
the main stems, and
if they are placed in
pots of sandy soil well
drained, and kept in
soon make roots and
following spring; also
in autumn, keeping
them in a cold frame
in winter, placing them in heat in spring, which in-
duces them to make young growths; and from these
cuttings can be made that will soon root in a gentle
bottom heat.
The following is a list of good named varieties
of Pentstemon :—
Agnes Laing. Henry Irving.
Atlantide. Joseph Buchner.
Bride-maid. Little Frank.
Candidate. Miss Salteau.
Diane. Mrs. J. Allen.
Edward Tate. P. Klein.
General Nansouty. The Favourite
H, Cannell.
a cold frame, they will —
form good plants the —
by potting the plants
of any good varieties
all the @
growths put forth from ~
ORCHIDS.
ORCHIDS.
‘By WitLiam HueH GOweER.
Colax.—A small genus of Epiphytes, nearly allied
to Maxillaria; indeed the difference is so small that
few cultivators would find it. The caudicle in this
genus is. destitute of a gland, whilst in the true
Maxillaria it is short, stout, and semi-circular. The
only species we shall include here is—
C. jujosus.—This plant should be treated as a pot
299
The genus is remarkable for its very long, double
spurs, which are sheathing, one within the other.
These plants require to be grown upon a block with
a little Sphagnum moss: they do not like full expo-
sure to the sun, but rather affect shade; water must
never be entirely withheld, as they cannot live if
they get any drying. Shady corner in the Brazilian
House.
C. coccinea.—This elegant little plant is extremely
rare in cultivation, and blooming as it does during
CoLax JUGOSUS.
plant and placed in the Brazilian House. Pseudo-
pulbs somewhat ovate, compressed, smooth, some
three inches high, bearing a pair of deep green leaves’
at the apex, and several smaller sheathing ones at
the base; these are lanceolate, and taper to a point,
six to eight inches long, nearly two inches broad;
scape erect, radical, two to three-flowered; sepals
broadly-oblong, creamy-white, and waxy in texture ;
petals somewhat similar in shape, creamy-white,
but inside profusely banded with transverse bands of
rich velvety purple; lip small, white, striped and
spotted with bluish-purple. Spring and early sum-
mer. Brazil.
Comparettia.—A few small-growing but beau-
tiful plants make up this genus, which is named in
honour of M. Comparetti, a distinguished Ttalian
botanist.
the dreary months, it seems to brighten up the plant-
houses. Pseudo-bulbs, long and slender, bearing one
to three leaves on the apex, scape issuing from the
side of the pseudo-bulb, near the base; three to seven-
flowered; sepals and petals small, yellow. edged
with scarlet ; lip three-lobed, side lobes small, mid-
dle lobe large and spreading, brilliant scarlet-orange
at the base; spur very long. Autumn and winter
months. Brazil.
C. faleata.__The leaves of this species are larger
than the preceding, and falcate. Scape three to six-
flowered; sepals and petals small; lip obcardate,
spreading, rich deep crimson. Spring and early
summer. Peru and Columbia.
Coryanthes (the Helmet Flower).—This name
is derived from korys, ‘“‘a helmet,’? and anthos, ‘a
flower,” in allusion to the extraordinary form of the
300
labellum. Botanically, the genus is thus charac-
terised: — Sepals dilated, flexuose, conduplicate ;
petals erect, much smaller than the sepals. Label-
lum large, unguiculate, galeate, continuous with the
base of the column, tridentate; column terete, two-
horned at the base, elongated, recurved at the apex,
two-winged. Anther two-celled. Pollen
masses, two, compressed, sulcate behind,
with a linear-arched caudicula, and a
lunate gland. These plants are all epi-
phytes, natives of tropical America, and
are found growing upon the tops of the
highest trees, fully exposed to the influence
of the sun’s rays. It is recorded that
these plants are always found in the com-
pany of ants, and that they grow in, and
derive benefit
from, their nests.
iif occurs 0) us,
however, that the
ants, finding the
Coryanthes pro-
duce such quan-
tities of a liquid
so congenial to
their taste, estab-
lish themselves on
the branches and
round the pseudo-
bulbs of these
plants, it is there-
fore the Cory-
anthes that are
necessary to the
ants, and not the
ants to the Cory-
anthes.
A writer thus
describes the first
Species intro-
duced : — “ From
the branches of
trees on Victoria
_ Hill, above Bahia, hang down little vegetable
buckets, into which a pair of stumps or fingers con-
stantly distil a sweetish, colourless fluid, which, drop
by drop, gradually fills the bucket. The fingers are
processes springing from the base of the column of
this Orchid; the bucket is a great helmet-shaped lip,
sustained by a stiff arm which keeps it perfectly
steady, so that the honey may not be spilt. The
column itself turns back as if to keep its head out of
the way of the drops, while the broad, membranous,
lateral sepals, resembling bats’ wings, turn quite
back, as if to unveil the singular phenomena which.
the blossom presents.”
CORYANTHES SPECIOSA.
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. '
Coryanthes should be grown in hanging baskets,
as they are seen to much better advantage in such
a position; they are evergreen plants, producing
from their pseudo-bulbs, which are more or less fur-
rowed, a pair of plaited leaves some ten or twelve
inches in length. During the growing season they
require an abundant supply of water, but
from shrivelling; they must be exposed to
all the sun and light it is possible to give
them; peat and Sphagnum, in about equal
parts. Brazilian House.
C. Fieldingii.—The species belonging to
this extraordinary genus have, to a great
extent, fallen out of cultivation. This
has arisen from their habit of dying off
rapidly, which,
we believe, is
caused by a sys-
tem of heavily
shading, which
ff these plants can-
ns not endure. The
f i present plant pro-
duces flowers of
a dull yellow,
mottled with rich
brown, and some
five inches in
diameter; it is
very distinct and
the largest of the
family. May and
June. Brazil.
C. macrantha.—
This fine species
produces very
large flowers.
Ground-colour, a
bright rich yel-
low, spotted with
red, the conical
helmet being, in
addition, suffused with rich orange-brown. June
and July. Caraccas.
C. maculata.—In this we have a very distinct and
handsomely-marked flower. Sepals of a uniform
pale yellow; the hood is curved prominently for-
ward; pale yellow, the helmet suffused with light
purplish-violet, and spotted with a deeper shade of
the same colour. June and July. Demerara.
“A
C. maculata, var. Albertine.—Flowers large, sepals”
and petals bright. yellow, spotted with rich, deep
red; hood white, dotted all over with rose; helmet
deep crimson, sparingly spotted on the inside. June
and July. Venezuela.
afterwards sufficient only to keep them ——
ORCHIDS.
C. maculata, var. Parkeriii—An extremely beauti-
ful variety ; sepals and petals light yellow; hood
deep reddish-purple, the helmet being spotted with
the same colour. May and June. Demerara.
C. maculata, var. punctata.—In this variety the
flowers are large, beautiful, and distinct; sepals and
petals bright yellow, dotted and spotted
with red; helmet conical, rich orange-
brown. Juneand July. Caraccas.
C. speciosa.—This species, of which we
give an illustration, will show the strange
form taken by these flowers. The whole
flower is of a uniform pale yellow
throughout, and spotless, and the hood
is not curved forward as in the other
species. Spring and early summer.
Bahia.
C. speciosa, var. alba.—The flowers of
this form are of a uniform white, which
is quite destitute of spots. May and
June. Bahia.
C. speciosa, var. vitellina. — A variety
with rich, deep, yolk of egg coloured
flowers; spotless. MayandJune. Brazil.
Cycnoches.— The name signifies
swan-neck, and is derived from the long
curved column ; the genus is a near ally
of Catasetum, and like the plants of that
genus, is subject to great variations,
which indeed render it very difficult to
define the limits of a species. Cultivation
same as for Catasetum.
Cycnoches are remarkable for the fact
that the same plants often produce quite
different flowers. In some cases the same
are not produced two seasons in succession; and
not unfrequently two kinds of flowers are produced
on the same plant at the same time. The variety
illustrated—the parent of many others—is an in-
stance of this. The following are brief descriptions
of some other varieties :—
C. aureum.—F lowers large and closely set, of a
uniform clear yellow. Spring and summer. Central
America.
C. barbatum (Polycyenis barbata).—F lowers bright
pink, spotted with red. Spring. Costa Rica.
C. Loddigesii.—This produces two kinds of flowers
rather frequently; in the most showy form the
flowers are large and fragrant; sepals and petals
green and purple; lip white, spotted with purple.
Summer months. Surinam.
C. pentadactyion.—The flowers of this kind are
large, and of a uniform yellowish- green, more or
less streaked with brown. Summer and autumn.
Brazil.
301
Cymbidium.—These are terrestrial vandaceous
Orchids, producing sword-shaped distichous leaves,
and forming in some instances short, stout, oval
pseudo-bulbs, which are enveloped by the imbricating
bases of the leaves. The scape 2s radical, in some
species erect, in others quite pendulous, the chief
re)
ey
Bem Z i)
M, Sy We
2
~~ LS N
>
C:
Ww
py BATON
~ \ aX oo,
CycNocHES WARSCEWICZII.
character in the flowers being the
presence of two conspicuous curved
ridges on the labellum.
The word Cymbidium is derived from
kymbe, “a boat,” and refers to a hollow
recess in the lip, and formerly included
numerous Orchids which had no claim
to be associated with this group.
Cymbidiums should be grown in
rough peat and Sphagnum moss. They
are plants which make a great quantity
of stout fleshy roots, and consequently
require plenty of pot-room. During
the growing season give a liberal sup-
ply of water, and never by any chance
allow the thin-leaved kinds (such as
eburneum) to suffer from drought at any time.
Formerly the beautiful species eburnewm was very
rare, and unfortunately it lost favour on account of
its being a shy flowerer; but then it was treated to
302,
the hottest corner of the East Indian House. A
friend, when sending some plants home a short time
back, writes: ‘‘In the cold season they sometimes
have snow on them for a short time, but afterwards
they break up like Willows, and, when in flower,
they look like great beds of white Tulips.” Taking
this as a guide, I have been able to redeem this
species from the bad character it had got as a poor
flowerer, and recommend Cymbidiums to be kept in
the Brazilian House; when at rest, even in a still
lower temperature. ”
C. Dayanum.—Leaves long and narrow, somewhat
CASSELL’S POPULAR, GARDENING.
margins, ivory-white, the base ornamented with a
broad band of yellow. It blooms during the winter
and spring months. There is another form of this
plant with rose-coloured dots on the lip. Upper
Assam.
C. gigantewm.— This is a bold strong-growing
plant. Leaves ligulate-acute; scape erect, many-
flowered; flowers large; sepals and petals brown;
lip same colour, stained and blotched with purple and
yellow. Winter and early spring. Northern India.
C. Hookerianum.—In habit resembling the pre-
ceding species, but the dark green leaves are striated
CYMBIDIUM EBURNEUM.
resembling C. eburneum; raceme pendulous, many-
flowered; the ground-colour of the flowers is yellow-
ish-white ; sepals and petals streaked with purplish-—
crimson; the lip is margined with the same rich
colour, and ornamented on the disc with numerous
reddish-crimson lines and streaks. Spring and early
summer. Assam.
C. eburnewm.—The leaves of this fine species are
narrow, arranged in a two-ranked manner, and
bright shining green, acutely two-lobed at the apex ;
scape usually one-flowered, but frequently two are
produced; sepals and petals spreading, oblong-
lanceolate, nearly equal, thick and fleshy in texture,
and ivory-white; lip three-lobed, side lobes rolled
ever the column; middle lobe triangular, with wavy
with yellow. Flowers upwards of four inches in
diameter ; sepals and petals apple-green, about equal,
oblong-acute; lip three-lobed, white, and lemon-
colour, profusely blotched, spotted, and dotted with
purple. Spring and early summer. Sikkim, Hima-
laya.
OC. Huttonii.—This is a very distinct and most
beautiful species. Pseudo-bulbs three to five inches
long, bearing a pair of leaves longer than the pseudo-
bulbs, and upwards of two inches in breadth; these
are somewhat oblong, coriaceous, and deep green;
raceme pendulous, five to ten-flowered; sepals larger
than the petals, recurved, and ovate; the former pale —
brown, streaked and blotched transversely with deep
brown; the latter rich chocolate inside; lip three
ORCHIDS.
lobed, green, with chocolate stripes. Summer months.
Java. The correct name is Grammangis Huttoni,
C, Lowianum.—A majestic plant, producing long
pendent spikes, which bear from twenty to thirty
large flowers ; sepals and petals apple-green, streaked
with light brown; lp creamy-yellow, lateral lobes
yellow, frond lobe blotched and bordered with rich
maroon. Spring and early summer. Burmah.
C. Mastersiii—The leaves are longer and broader
in this plant than those of C. eburneum, which it
much resembles. ‘T’he flowers are borne on arching
racemes, aS many as ten to twelve together; the
whole flower is ivory-white saving the lip, where it
is stained with pink; the flowers have a delicate
almond-like per-
fume, and last
in full beauty a
long time; they
are admirably
adapted for de-
corating alady’s
hair. Winter
“months. Upper
Assam.
C. pendulum,
var. purpureum.
—The leaves of
this plant are
very thick and
coriaceous,
nerveless, and
deep’ green;
spike one to
three feet long,
pendulous,
many-flowered; sepals and petals about equal,
yellowish-green on the outside, deep reddish-purple
on the inner surface; lip white, spotted and blotched
with crimson; disc stained with yellow. This isa
very superior plant to the type. It blooms in
Spring and early summer. Northern India.
C. tigrinum.—A rare and elegant species, which
has hitherto been found rather difficult to manage,
we imagine through having been kept too hot, as
it inhabits the Tenasserim Mountains, at an eleva-
tion of 6,000 feet. ‘The pseudo-bulbs are small and
ovate; leaves about six inches long; scape erect,
bearing several large flowers; sepals and petals
green, dotted with red towards the base ; lip three-
lobed, large; side lobes erect, reddish-purple inter-
nally; middle lobe broad and flat, white, marked
with numerous. transverse bars of reddish-purple.
Summer months. Moulmein.
7 Cypripedium.—This genus contains one species
indigenous to these islands; its extreme beauty has,
CYMBIDIUM GIGANTEUM.
303
however, nearly led to its extinction. Like all other
native plants, this found its English name amongst
the people; and we now apply it to all the beautiful
tropical species which have been introduced to culti-
vation; indeed, as Orchidaceous plants become more
popular there appears to be an increasing desire to
apply English names te them, and their singular
flowers have generally suggested a resemblance to
some insect or animal: thus we have the Butterfly
(Oncidiwm papilio), the White Moth (Lhalenopsis
amabilis), the Dove (Peristeria elata), the Cockatoo
(Angrecum Eilisii); whilst amongst our native
species we are reminded of their peculiar shapes by
such names as the Lizard (Orchis hircina), the Bee
(Ophrys api-
Sera), the Spider
(Ophrys arach-
mites), the Man
(Aceras anthro-
pophora), the
Fly (Ophrys
muscifera), and
the Slipper
(Cypripedium
Calceolus); the
large inflated
pouch-like form
of the labellum
evidently sug-
gested the
name Calceolus
Marianus, first
applied to this
plant by the
learned, and
hence came the popular name Slipper of our Lady,
or Lady’s Slipper, whilst the generic name comes
from Kypris, “ Venus,” and podion, “a shoe””—the
Shoe or Slipper of Venus.
Cypripediums are very distinct, both in shape and
structure, from all other genera; and the genus con-
tains a great many extremely handsome species and
varieties, the numbers of which are continually being
increased by fresh importations and the skill of the
hybridisers, upwards of three hundred varieties being
known as in cultivation. Many of these plants are
natives of quite cool places, Siberia and Canada
being rich in species; and one very peculiar form is
found in Japan, but by far the greater number are
found in India and the Indian Islands, and through-
out South America; the kinds indigenous to the cold
regions, however, are all caulescent and deciduous.
The species of Cypripediums here enumerated are
terrestrial and acaulescent, and are quite destitute of
pseudo-bulbs; their leaves are arranged in a dis-
tichous manner, and are mostly thick and leathery in
“ily J C/-=
a
| ae a
304 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. |
pediums are great favourites in the horticultural
world, for their singular forms and beautiful colours
charm all beholders; then again, they have the
texture; in some instances they are beautifully
tesselated, whilst the scape rises from the centre of
the leaves, and is either one or many-flowered.
CYPRIPEDIUM CAUDATUM.
Some of the species included here, and which are
peculiar to tropical America, have been removed
from this genus, and called Sclenepedium, on account
of their having a three-celled ovary, whilst the .
Cypripediums of the Old World have a one-celled
ovary only. It is not at all surprising that Cypri-
additional recommendation of being by no means
difficult to cultivate, for with ordinary attention
they very soon grow into handsome specimens, and
most of them will continue in full beauty for many
months.
In potting these plants they should not be elevated
ORCHIDS. 305
above the rim of the pot; the soil best adapted for
them is a mixture of two parts rough peat, one part
good leaf-mould, and one part chopped Sphagnum
moss; to this add a little sharp sand, whilst some
species like the addition of a portion of yellow loam.
The pots for Cypripediums must be exceptionally
well drained, for they ;
like an abundance of p
water during the
growing season, and
as they are entirely
destitute of pseudo-
bulbs to support
them, at no time
must the supply be
cut off, although as a
matter of course less
will be necessary
when the plants are
at rest.
Cypripediums are
not much subject to
the attack of insect
pests, but scale will
sometimes fix upon
them; whenever these
are seen, remove at
once with sponge and
soft-soap and water. |
But the red thrip is
_ their worst enemy,
and must be extermi-
nated immediately it
_ puts in an appear-
ance; this can be
effected with tobacco
powder as previously
‘recommended for
A erides.
As a general rule,
_ these plantsare grown
in the East Indian
House, but the ma-
jority of the species
thrive best in a cooler
_ temperature; it will
therefore be necessary to specify these in the descrip-
_ tive enumeration, but all those not specially men-
_ tioned may be kept in the East Indian House.
C. -Argus.—This is undoubtedly one of the very
_handsomest of the barbatum section. Leaves up-
wards of six inches long; oblong-lanceolate, tapering
to a point, pale green on both sides, the upper sur-
_ face beautifully tesselated with deep green; flowers
_ Some five inches across, and solitary; dorsal sepal
cordate-acuminate, the ground-colour white, with
a4
CYPRIPEDIUM INSIGNE.
numerous purple and green stripes running from
point to base; the lateral sepals, like all in this
genus, are combined and are somewhat incon
spicuous ; petals upwards of three inches long, rose:
colour, tinged with green towards the base, profusely
spotted and blotched with purple, and fringed on
the edges with dark
hairs; lip large, dull
purple in front, yel-
lowish-green under-
neath. Spring and
early summer. Island
of Luzon.
C. barbatum, var.
grandifioruwn.— There
are many forms of
this species, this
being one of the
best; the leaves are
oblong and_ bright
green, tesselated with
dark green; flowers
large and _ solitary.
The ordinary form
has a small dorsal
sepal, and a smaller
and more pointed
pouch-like lip. This
variety is distin-
s\ guished by its very
x) broad dorsal sepal,
which measures some
two and a half inches
in diameter, white,
striped from base to
apex with lines of
greenish - purple or
port- wine colour;
petals warm rose-
colour, tinged with
green towards the
base, fringed on the
edges with purplish
hairs, and warty on
the upper margin; lip
large, the pouch broad
and obtuse, deep port-wine colour. It lasts long in
full beauty. Spring and summer. Malacca, &e.
C. caudatum.—As with most other plants, there are
several varieties of this species; the best form is
C. caudatum roseum, distinguished by the large
and deeper rose-coloured lip. Leaves twelve to
eighteen inches long, carinate beneath, and plain,
shining green; scape many-flowered, flowers large
and showy, with remarkably long tail-like petals;
dorsal sepal large, and directed forward like a hood,
306
tawny-yellow, variously streaked and barred with
reddish-purple; the lateral ones combined, greenish-
yellow; the petals are the most remarkable feature ;
these are tawny-yellow, and are lengthened into
linear pendent wavy tails nearly two feet or more in
length; lip much inflated, tawny-yellow, more or
less suffused with rich deep rose, or reddish-purple.
April to June. Cool part of Brazilian House. Andes
of South America. ;
C. chloroneurom.—This is a hybrid raised by that
enthusiastic lover of Orchids, Mr. R. Warner, so
long known as possessing one of the finest collections
of these plants in England. Professor Reichenbach
in describing this plant writes thus :—‘“ Leaves of
C. venustum ; very dark; flowers large, very shining
as if varnished; odd sepal light green, with darker
longitudinal and transverse veins ; pair sepals ligulate
acute, white with green nerves, very small and narrow;
petals divided by a longitudinal, purple-maroon,
broad streak, white with green nerves on side towards
the lip, green on the other sides, light brown to the
apex, with green nerves and Indian purple wart-
like spots on the basiliar limb, and some spots near
the base; lip’s sac very broad, with short blunt
lateral horns, light copper-coloured, with green
reticulations on a yellow border.” January and
February. Garden hybrid.
C. Druryi.—A fine addition to this family ; there
are, however, several inferior forms. The finest may
be thus described :—Leaves oblong-ligulate, tapering
to a point, and deep green; scape erect, longer than
the leaves, and densely clothed with ferruginous
hairs, bearing a single flower; sepals and petals deep
yellow with a chocolate band down the centre of
each, the latter dotted at the base with green; lip
large, obtuse, pale yellow. Hast Indies.
C. Dominianum.—A hybrid between C. caudatum
and C. Pearcei, one of the splendid results obtained by
Mr. Dominy in the establishment of Messrs. Veitch
of Chelsea, and is exactly intermediate between the
two parents. Leaves narrow-ligulate, plain green ,
scape three or more flowered, all expanded at one
time ; the petals are much twisted, but broader and
not so long as in C. caudatwm ; lip almost same shape
as in CO. Pearcei, colour tawny-yellow, suffused more
or less with reddish-purple. Cool end of Brazilan
House. May and June. . Garden hybrid.
C. ewryandrum.—This is the result of a cross be-
tween (. barbatum and C. Stonei; it is a magni-
ficent flower, raised by Mr. Seden in the Veitchian
nurseries at Chelsea. We believe Mr. Seden was a
pupil of our friend Mr. Dominy, and when this
flower first opened it must have made the hearts of
both. rejoice. Leaves large, broadly-oblong obtuse,
and plain deep green ; scape three-flowered ; flowers
very large; dorsal sepal broadly-ovate obtuse, and
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
fringed round the edge with blackish-purple hairs,
ground-colour white, suffused with rose, staimed
with pale yellow up the centre, and striped with —
purple; the combined lateral sepal is smaller and
duller in colour; petals slightly shorter than
C. Stonei, but broader, dull port-wine colour, sut-
fused with tawny-yellow, variously spotted with
reddish-purple, and slightly warty on the upper
edge; lip large and bold, obtuse, deep port-wine
colour. Spring and summer. Garden hybrid.
C. Fairrieanum.—This exquisite small-growing
species is very rare in cultivation. Leaves oblong-
ligulate, some three inches long, and light green;
scape double the length of the leaves; flowers large,
solitary ; dorsal large and somewhat cordate, fringed
and waved at the edges, ground-colour white, shaded
with green, and strongly veined from base to apex
with deep purple; petals at first deflexed, then
curiously curved upwards, oblong-lanceolate, white,
with greenish-purple veins, and ciliate on both
edges; lip large, extending forward, dull purple,
suffused with green. It succeeds best in the cool
end of the Brazilian House. September and October.
Assam.
C. Harrisianun.—This is a hybrid between C.
barbatum and C. villosum, and both leaves and flowers
appear to be exactly intermediate. The leaves have
the bright shining surface of C. villosum, and the
tesselations of C. barbatum, but these are not so
plainly marked; the flowers are somewhat in the
style of C. villosum, yet abundantly distinct ; dorsal
sepal broad, dull purple, tipped with white; the
lower sepal smaller, and greenish-white; petals
broadly-ligulate, port-wine colour, the middle vein
being very dark; lip large, dull purple, tinged with
green. Spring and early summer. Garden hybrid.
C. hirsutissimum.—Leaves some nine or ten inches
long, strap-shaped, and deep green; scape longer
than the leaves; flowers nearly six inches in
diameter, solitary; dorsal sepal very broad and
cordate, green, suffused with purple in front, and
clothed with long shaggy hairs behind; petals
spathulate, the basal half undulate, greenish, the
edges fringed with short hairs, upper part rich
purple; lip large, green, freckled with purple.
April to June. Brazilian House. Assam (?) Jaya (?).
C. Hookere.—Leaves broad and obtuse, coriaceous,
about five inches long, dark bright green, tesselated
with white; the flowers are somewhat similar in
colour to those of the last-named kind; dorsal sepal
cordate, yellowish-green; petals slightly undulate
towards the base, where they are green, dotted with
purple; upper half rosy-purple, fringed all round
with short dark hairs; lip somewhat small and
blunt, yellowish-brown. Reichenbach, in describing
this species, says: ‘‘ Flowers of Cypripedium hirsutise
ORCHIDS. 307
sumum and leaves of Phalenopsis Schillervanum, or
nearly so.” Summer months. Borneo.
C. insigne.—This fine old species still maintains
its place in our plant-houses, notwithstanding the
numerous species and hybrids introduced during the
past few years. Leaves ligulate, thick and fleshy,
pale green; scape longer than the leaves; flowers
large, solitary; dorsal sepal greenish-yellow; the
apex white and spotted with brownish-purple ;
petals green, suffused with brown, dotted towards
the base with purplish-brown; lip large, tawny-
orange or yellow.
broad dorsal sepal, the largest half of which is pure
white to the apex; the basal half is spotted with
purple. Cool end of the Mexican division. Its
flowers are produced during winter, and last several
weeks in full beauty. Nepaul and Sylhet. .
C. levigatum.—A fine but very slow-growing
kind; the leaves are ligulate, thick and fleshy,
nerveless, and bright shining green; scape double
the length of the leaves, three to five-flowered ;
sepals large, broadly-ovate, white, the dorsal one
being striped with broad lines of purplish-brown
from base to apex; the coalescing lateral ones are
striped with green; petals lengthened out into
twisted tail-like appendages, some six inches in
length and a quarter of an inch in breadth, blotched
with brownish-purple towards the base on the upper
edge ; white or greenish-yellow, changing to choco-
late, for two-thirds of their length; lip small, nar-
row-oblong, uniform pale yellow. Mr. Bateman, in
recording the discovery of this fine species, writes
thus: “ Mr. John Gould Veitch fonnd C. Levigatum
established upon the roots of the well-known Vanda
Batemanii, to obtain which was one main object of
his voyage, though he sought for it long in vain,
_and had almost begun to despair of ever meeting
with it, when running his boat one day ashore in
the bay of a small island, he was delighted and as-
tonished to find the rocks by the coast covered with
huge masses of the plant of which he was in quest.’’
Spring and early summer. Philippine Islands.
C. Lawrencianum.—This fine plant belongs to the
barbatum group. ‘The leaves are oblong-acuminate,
dark green, splendidly tesselated with yellowish-
green; the scape is sometimes two-flowered; the
flowers resemble the grandiflorum variety of barbatum
in some respects; the dorsal sepal is larger, white,
_ Striped frorm base to apex with broad purple lines ;
the petals are fringed round the edges with long
dark hairs, with numerous wart-like spots on both
margins; lip large, dull purple.
summer. Borneo.
C. Lowii.—Leaves oblong-ligulate, a foot or more
long, some two inches broad, and plain dull green;
scape erect, much larger than the leaves, two to five-
Spring and early
The variety Maulei has a very
flowered; flowers large and showy; dorsal sepal
pale green; petals long, spathulate towards the
ends, where they are of a uniform purple ; greenish
towards the base, and marked with large blotches of
purple, and fringed round the edges with short
hairs; lip oblong, large and smooth, brownish-
purple. Summer months. Jungles of Borneo.
C. nivewm.—This is a dwarf and compact plant,
and one of the most chaste and beautiful of the
whole family. Leaves oblong-obtuse, and coria-
ceous in texture, about six inches long, dark green,
streaked and tesselated with silvery-white and light
green; the under side dull reddish-purple ; scape
usually one-flowered, but sometimes it bears two
pure snowy-white flowers, upwards of three inches
and a half in diameter ; in some varieties the sepals
and petals are freckled with purple and cinnamon
dots. Spring and early summer. ‘Tambelau
Islands, Straits of Malacca.
C. Parishii.—A very distinct species, nearly allied
to the very fine C. Levigatum, although not so
showy. Leaves eight to ten inches long, and up-
wards of two inches broad; strap-shaped, bifid at the
apex, dark shiny green above, paler below ; scape
more than twice as long as the leaves, bearing three
to eight of its long- tailed flowers; dorsal sepal
somewhat ovate, acute, apple-green; petals upwarus
of five inches long, twisted, upper part greenish-
white, blotched with purple, and ornamented on
the edges with a few hairy purple warts ; lower part
of petals dull vinous purple, edged with green; lip
long and narrow, in some instances purplish, in
others greenish-purple and white. Summer months.
Mountains of Moulmein.
C. Roezlii.—A very strong-growing plant, belong-
ing like caudatum to the Selenipediums of Reichenbach.
-'The leaves are upwards of two feet long and two
inches broad, ligulate-acuminate, deep green on the
upper side, paler below; scape one to three feet
high ; it continues to grow and produce flowers for a
long time, but there are seldom more than one or
two flowers open at once on the same scape; sepals
yellowish, suffused with rosy-purple and green ;
petals long and narrow, spreading ; in some varie-
ties rosy-purple, in others yellowish-green, with
reddish-purple margins; lip very long, yellowish,
freckled at the base with dots of red. It blooms
nearly all the year round. Summer in Peruvian
House; winter in Brazilian House. Andes of Choco,
New Grenada.
C. Sehlimii.—This pretty little species is found
growing in cool wet places. Leaves eight to twelve
inches long, ligulate-acute, leathery, deep green ;
scape many-flowered: flowers two inches in dia-
meter; sepals ovate-obtuse, white, tinged with
green ; petals a little larger, pure white, stained and
308
spotted with crimson at the base; lip round and full,
contracted at the mouth, white behind, rich rosy-
crimson in front. Peruvian House. Autumn months.
It grows at an elevation of 4,000 feet in Ocaiia,
New Grenada.
C. Schlimii, var. albiflorwm. — This very elegant
variety isan exact counterpart of the species, saving
its flowers, which are pure snow-white, except the
mouth of the labellum, which is ornamented with
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
C. pardinum.—When not in flower, this plant has-
much the appearance of C. venustum. 'The leaves
are some six inches long, and about two inches
broad, dark green, tesselated with yellowish-green
above, stained with purple towards the base beneath ;
scape erect, longer than the leaves, two to three-
flowered, seldom one-flowered; dorsal sepal large,
ovate-acuminate, pure white, streaked with bright
green from base to apex, every second stripe reach-
CYPRIPEDIUM SPICERIANUM.
crimson rays. Autumn, New
Grenada.
C. politum.—This is another hybrid raised through
the skill of Mr. Warner, of Bloomfield, Chelmsford.
Leaves rather large, with numerous dark green
transverse marks; flowers equal to that of a good
C. argus; sepals triangular, white, with a reddish
wash ; nerves green, Indian purple spot at the base ;
pair sepals well connate, surpassing in length the
lip for a little space; lip’s face blunt, copper-
coloured, with green nerves in front, greenish on
sides; petals broad, ciliate, totally reddish at top,
the remaining part half white and half light brown;
the first part towards the odd sepal, with numerous
Indian purple blotches; the other one with similar
blotches and green nerves. January and February.
Garden hybrid.
Peruvian House.
ing only half the length; lower connate sepals
smaller, but same colour; petals long and broad,
standing at right angles, tapering toa point at the
base ; yellowish-green, dotted with purplish-black,
and bearing several small, cihated, dark brown warts
on the edges; the ends bronzy-red, shaded with
purple, and fringed all round with short dark hairs:
lip saccate, yellowish, tinged with rose, and netted
with green veins. April and May. Moulmein.
C. Sedenii.—This is a beautiful hybrid, obtained
between C. Schlimui and C. longifolium. 'The latter
species, if not identical, is a very near relative of
C. Roezlit. It is a very handsome form, and almost
a perpetual bloomer. Leaves a foot or more long,
ligulate-acuminate, and bright dark green; sepals
and petals greenish-white, shaded with crimson,
with a few darker streaks; lip large, and much in-
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 309
flated, rich crimson, suffused with a purplish tinge.
Summer months, &e. Garden hybrid.
C. selligerum.—A hybrid between C. barbatum
and C. levigatum, and is a very handsome and
distinct variety. It is of robust habit, with broad
ligulate leaves; these have nearly lost all the
tesselations of the barbatwm group. Scape erect,
two to three-flowered; dorsal sepal white, boldly
veined from base to apex with dark crimson; the
coalescing lower one is white; petals much de-
flexed, and slightly twisted, about three inches long,
white, veined with crimson, with numerous dark
warty blotches, and fringed all round with long dark
hairs; lip large and obtuse, vinous red. Spring
and summer. Garden hybrid.
C. Stonei.—This is a superb species. The leaves
are ligulate-obtuse, about a foot long, and dark
shining green above, paler beneath; scape erect, as
long or longer than the leaves, three-flowered ;
sepals ovate-acuminate, the dorsal one largest,
white, stained with yellow, and streaked with
purple on the outside; petals slightly deflexed, some
five inches long, orange-yellow, blotched with dark
purple; lip large, with a curiously-shaped pouch,
eround-colour white, reddish-purple in front, with
deeper-coloured veins. June and July. Sarawak
in Borneo.
0. Spicerianum.—A small-growing species, not
possessed of brilliant colours, but a charming addi-
tion to the family. Scape erect, flowers solitary,
two to three inches in diameter; dorsal sepals pure
white; petals white, tinged with green, and streaked
with purple; lip deep reddish-brown. It should be
placed in the cool end of the Brazilian House.
Spring months. Northern India.
CO. superbiens.—This species belongs to the dar-
batum group, and is the finest of that section yet
introduced. In English gardens it has obtained the
name of Veitchianum. Leaves strap-shaped, oblong-
obtuse, ground-colour yellowish-green, tesselated
with dark green; flowers very large, solitary ;
dorsal sepal ovate, tapering to a point, the lower one
very small, white, with numerous bright green lines
running from base to apex; petals oblong-obtuse,
three inches long, white, dotted and streaked with
dark purple, and fringed all round with dark hairs ;
lip very large, deep purple in front, passing into
brown beneath. Summer months. Java.
C. vexillarium.—The result of a cross between
C. barbatum and C. Fairrieanum. Leaves oblong-
obtuse, ground-colour yellowish-green, chequered
with dark green; scape one-flowered, the flowers
being about the size of the last-named parent;
dorsal sepal white, greenish at base, shaded with
light purple, and streaked with darker lines; petals
curved downwards, purple, slightly tinged with
green; lip large, pale brown, veined and shaded
with pale green. Summer months. Garden hybrid.
C. venustum, var. spectabile. —This is a beautiful
form of this very old acquaintance, which appears
to be the first species of the genus introduced from
India. The original form was rather dull-coloured,
and suffered from comparison with later discoveries
until it became almost obsolete. This variety has
again brought the name of venustwm to the fore.
Leaves oblong-ligulate and acute, deep bluish-
green, tesselated with two shades of lighter green,
reddish-purple beneath; scape longer than the
leaves, erect, one-flowered; dorsal sepal ovate,
tapering to a point, white, suffused with pale green
and striped with darker lines of the same colour;
petals somewhat spathulate, white, streaked with
green, and broadly tipped with carmine, sparingly
spotted with deep purplish-black; lip greenish-
yellow, tinged with rosy-red. ‘This species thrives
well under the same treatment as C. insigne. Winter
months. Sylhet. Northern India.
C. villosum.—A superb species, the last we shall
enumerate here, although the family contains many
other beautiful forms. Leaves strap-shaped, taper-
ing to a point, coriaceous in texture, and deep green,
slightly spotted at the base with brown; scape one-
flowered; flowers large and spreading, measuring
about five inches in diameter; the dorsal sepal is
obovate, curved forward, green, heavily stained at
the base with deep purple, and veined in the upper
part with netted purple lines; petals unequally
spathulate, the upper half rich chestnut-brown,
lower portion greenish-yellow; lip large, yellow,
suffused with light brown, the whole flower having
the appearance of being newly varnished. Spring
and early summer. Moulmein.
THE KITCHEN GARDEN.
By WILLIAM FARLEY.
MONTHLY CALENDAR (concluded).
June.
AKE another and a last sowing of Broad Beans.
Early in the month stick Scarlet Runner Beans,
where this method of growing them is practised. On
the contrary, where the market garden system is
followed, keep every young shoot pinched back im-
mediately it appears, by which means very dwarf
free-fruiting rows will be assured. Make a final
sowing of summer cropping or main crop Peas.
The ground for them should be deep, rich, and if
possible cool. Should this sowing, in the exigencies
of successional sowings in order, happen to come
early in the month, then it will be well to make a
310
final sowing of the following also about the third
week in the month, viz.:—Ne Plus Ultra, Day’s
Early Sunrise, and John Bull. It is excellent prac-
tice during a dry summer to mulch late Peas. By
its aid moisture is kept in the ground, and the action
of the sun’s rays upon the surface of the soil is neu-
tralised, to say nothing of the assistance it affords
in connection with all artificial waterings.
At no other season of the year is it so important
to give free use to the hoe as during this month of
June. By keeping the surface soil loose and free,
the beneficial action of the dews at night is accele-
rated. Equally important are hoeings following all
heavy rains, which level or beat down the surface
of the soil and so neutralise such results. Beyond
which, seedling weeds form very rapidly at such a
season, following all rains, and hence hoeing has a
dual or triple merit.
Where the most tender vegetables are in constant
demand, it will be desirable during a showery
period in the month to make again small sowings
of the following:—Early Horn Carrots, Turnips,
Spinach, Radishes, Lettuces, Endive, and such small
salading as Mustard, Cress, Onions, &c., for drawing.
A damp cool soil is the most desirable at this season
for all kinds of salad plants.
Any temporary covering such as hand-lights placed
over Ridge Cucumbers, Vegetable Marrows, &c.,
gradually remove; cut, dry, and harvest all kinds of
herbs immediately any show signs of blooming, at
which time they are ripe for the process.
Artificial waterings are very important during
the month. Unfortunately, it so happens that every
part of the garden calls loudly for extra attention
at this particular season, hence the great assistance
such artificial waterings are capable of cannot in some
cases be properly rendered. I would remark, never-
theless, that should dry weather intervene, no other
extra labour that could be applied would give better
results than such as may be applied to this one of
the artificial root-watering in season; and to hirea
man, or two, for a day about twice in the month
for this purpose would greatly repay the small outlay.
It may be added in connection with this subject that
weak manurial waterings, being so exceptionally
helpful to the roots, should be applied in all instances
where practicable. If but a bag of horse-droppings
be placed in a tub whence the water is drawn it
will afford good assistance in this respect.
Give more and more air by day to Cucumbers, even
towards the end of the month to tilting the sashes
of frames on their sides, by inserting wedges under
the opposite side. Always so raise each, however,
that any winds blow over and not directly into the
frames. Add manurial watering to the usual root-
waterings. ‘These should be given every other day
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
during very hot drying weather; but only every
third or fourth day when the weather is heavy and
dull, though superficial sprinklings will be required
daily at this date at 3.30 p.m. Take care to give
root-waterings at the same hour, upon sunny days
only ; so that the heat of the sun’s rays, subsequently
boxed up by closing the lights down tightly, aid in
renovating the heat lost in process of watering. To
insure that a moderate warmth pervades the water
used, make a point of filing all water-pots with
water as soon as the general morning waterings are
finished, and place them in full sun previous to
the periodical waterings. Continue to look through
the plants. Pinch back lateral shoots upon which
embryo Cucumbers form, at one leaf beyond such
tender fruits. Remove all tendrils wherever they
form. Stop the points of strong shoots (which it is
well to let grow occasionally, to insure better root-
action) when they approach the outer sides of frame
or proper limits, removing all aged leaves and
freshening up the surface of the soil, to neutralise
the formation of noxious fungoid growths, &e.
Mushroom-beds, which have been spawned five or
six weeks, should have the surface covering carefully
removed, giving waterings as may be necessary.
Well shake up the material used as a covering, and
replace it over the bed lightly, and as circumstances
suggest less densely also. Collect more materials and
make up successional beds out of doors, for cropping
during September onwards. Such materials will dry
well spread out in the sun during dry weather, and
prove better than such as are prepared by process of
fermentation. It is important that the droppings be
such as are formed by horses fed upon dry. food, and
not from such as are pasturing, as many horses are
at this season. Take care to remove all vegetable
crops immediately they have ceased to be young and
useful, especially of the Brassica tribe, Spinach, &ce.
To permit these to stand upon the ground but a
few days subsequently, is to greatly and needlessly
rob the ground of its best constituents.
July.
Even during the month known as arid July,
cropping must be continued by all who would have
vegetables subsequently ‘‘in season.” As spring-
sown crops come into bearing and exhaust them-
selves, they must in rapid succession be uprooted, the
ground “‘repaired,’’ and other crops made to take their
place, as by a wizard’s hand. Too much attention
cannot therefore be given to the immediate digging
up of all ground, when crops thereon become ex-
hausted. It is highly desirable likewise to add
manure to all such ground as is dug up at this™
season. Following former crops it is generally very §
dry, and unless heavy rains fall it will continue so. @
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 311
By giving it a dressing of manure, the manure will,
by the very moisture it contains, give latent moisture
to the ground below which it could not otherwise
possess at such a period and under such conditions.
It is a practice (greatly wronged in the omission)
very desirable to trundle a wooden roller over quar-
ters so dug up, immmediately after dug. Crops
of all kinds, transposed to soil so treated, succeed far
better at such a season. Judgment and discrimina-
tion must be used in connection both with sowing
seeds and transplanting winter vegetables. It is
always desirable to do both as near to a rainy period
as possible, and towards the latter part of each day.
Take care not:to put plants of the Brassica tribes
too deeply into the ground. Just the root-fibres
alone should be placed in the ground, and the soil
pressed very firmly over them. A watering given to
the roots of each will greatly aid in making the
soil firm around them, which, aided by the mois-
ture, will cause quick root-action.
Take up, harvest, or store away Shallots, Garlic,
and early bulbed Onions. Cut down old stalks of
Globe Artichokes immediately the last head is
removed from each; also flower-stalks upon Rhu-
barb and Sea-kale, as frequently as they are seen
to push up. Take care to keep crops of Scarlet
Runner Beans, Vegetable Marrows, Cucumbers,
Peas, &c., picked immediately any are ready for use.
If left upon the plants they become old, and keep
even better in several instances when picked than
when exposed to the sun’s rays upon the plants,
doing the parent plants at the same time an ineal-
culable amount of injury in regard to their capacity
for giving an intermittent succession of crops. The
hoe must be used throughout all crops once or
twice during the month. See that the necessary
quantities of Brussels Sprouts, Kale, Broccolis,
Collards. or Coleworts, Caulifiowers, &c., are com-
pletely planted out before the end of the month. A
successional transplanting of Broccoli and Cauli-
flower plants gives also successional supplies in due
season, which is an important fact to bear in mind.
Make sowings of Cabbage for autumn planting,
and small sowings of Lettuces, Endive, Turnips, and
Spinach. Asparagus-beds are during the month in
active growth; avd at no time can greater aid be
given to the plants in view of forming fine produce
the following spring than by giving good manurial
waterings at this particular season. Dig up and
store away early Myatt Potatoes, planting a few
rows of the tubers after having first exposed them to
the sun for a few days upon a warm sunny border,
in view of securing a few early tubers towards the
month of November.
Dig out Celery trenches, manure them liberally,
and transplant Celery therein in successional batches,
according to the quantities necessary for supply;
give thorough soakings of water, and should the
weather be very hot and dry, it will be well to lay a
few green-leaved tree-branches across the trenches.
Attend to ridge Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows.
Stop the points of all strong-growing shoots, to in-
duce laterals bearing fruits to form; watering, &c., as
needful. Nail up Tomatoes, Capsicums, &c., growing
against walls, keeping them also well supplied with
root-waterings.
Winter or very early-planted Cucumbers will
show signs of exhaustion. If the plants are healthy,
cut them well back; add a layer of fresh soil over
the roots, and induce a quick young growth. By
these means the whole will be resuscitated, and
other good fruit crops will follow. Sow seeds of de-
sirable kinds of Cucumbers, to grow into plants for
the renewal of such as are house-grown, and which it
is well to get planted out and established before dull
November weather too nearly approaches. Cut down
all superfluous growth on herbs, such as the seedy
stalks upon Tarragon, Fennel, Marjoram, Sage, An-
gelica, Mint, &c., where any still remains from the
herb -collecting and drying process of the latter
part of the month of June. By this means young
shoots of merit will be formed in time to stand for
winter.
August.
It is important that all who desire to secure good
beds of winter Spinach should prepare the ground
during the first week in the month. Seeds of the
prickly or hardier kind should be sown between the
10th and 12th of the month. As early in the month
as convenient, prepare also a nice bed whereon
to sow French or Short Horn Carrots, from which a
nice supply of young produce can be secured for
early winter uses. An open, sunny aspect, and free
sandy soil should be chosen for the purpose.
Mould up all kinds of winter greens, &c. During
the second week sow the main crop of Cabbages, in-
cluding Red, for pickling, to plant ont in the autumn
for the early spring supplies. Make also two distinct
sowings of Cauliflower for a similar purpose on the
8th and 138th of the month. The result will be a
batch of young plants, for transplanting into frames,
or under hand-lights, in the usual way. Finish
planting out Leeks, earthing the earlier ones up as
they proceed in growth. Make main sowings of
winter Lettuces, especially black-seeded Brown Cos
and hardy Cabbage. Where Lisbon Onions were not
sown as advised last month, make a sowing early in
the present. Batavian and Curled Endive, Turnip
Radishes, &c., sow also as required. Finish planting
out Celery as soon as possible, ground being at liberty
for the purpose. Go over the earlier row of Celery,
remoye all small useless leaves from each plant, and
312 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
carefully take off all minor side-shoots or suckers
from each, hoe the soil on each side of the row, and
chop down a little soil from the sides of the trenches
as a preliminary to earthing up. If the earliest row
is sufficiently advanced to permit of this being done
about the first week, a second earthing up may be
made during the third or fourth week.
Transplant towards the middle and end of the
month seedling Lettuces and Endive on to any open
space and rich soil. The result will be fine large
plants for late autumn use, and for transplanting in
frames, &c.
Where the main Onion crop does not ripen off
evenly, sundry large strong-necked ones existing
amongst them, go over the bed, and bend the necks
of such down, a practice which hastens the bulbing
process. So soon as such green stalks contract, and
show a ripened aspect, pull the crop up, laying the
bulbs bottom upwards in rows to hasten the further
ripening process. Give the needful attention to
Tomatoes, Cucumbers, &c., well deluging all with
water as necessary. Pot off seedling Cucumber plants
erown on for winter work. Well hoe all ground re-
quiring such attention.
September.
Prepare ground whereon to plant the main bed of
spring Cabbages. Upon light ground the old Onion-
bed, especially if well manured and prepared for
such, will prove an excellent place whereon to plant
them. On the contrary, wherever the ground is of
a heavy, tenacious nature, it will be desirable to
manure and dig up a proper space for them, whereon
to plant to the necessary extent so soon as the young
seedling plants are large enough for the purpose.
The Spinach sown as advised will require thinning
out; the better this is done, so will the young plants
gain strength for withstanding the frosts, &c., of
winter. Thin all out to six inches apart, well hoeing
the ground during the operation.
Take up Potato crops immediately the haulm shows
signs of ripening, and should disease show upon any,
either cut the haulm down and remove it to a dis-
tance, or forthwith dig up the crop. In digging the
crop up thus early, however, it is needful to at once
remove the tubers to a cool, close, dark shed, or to
clamp them at once in the open ground. The latter
is preferable. Care must be taken, however, not to
place too large a bulk together, otherwise they are
likely to ferment and receive great injury. In any
case, it is desirable to dig up this crop as soon as
possible. The practice of leaving it in the ground
after the haulm has died down, too certainly causes
undue loss or waste.
Proceed with earthing up Celery. The process re-
quires to be done by degrees, at intervals of about a
fortnight. Chop a quantity of soil down from the
sides of the trenches each time, break it up finely,
place it against the plants, and whilst each plant is
held bodily in one hand, with the leaves naturally
closed together, and their stalks straight, draw the
soil with a trowel up around and between each.
During dry weather a final watering should be given
before the second earthing up.
Towards the end of the month take up and store
Beet-root and Carrots. Dig up each root care-
fully, so as not to break them ; twist the leaves off
the former, and cut them off the latter, stormg them
away conveniently for winter use. A cool, somewhat
damp place suits both. Carrots will keep fresh and
well clamped in the open ground, in the same way
as Potatoes are clamped.
Mildew often attacks late Peas early in the month.
A fine dusting with flowers of sulphur is a good anti-
dote. The Onion crop should be ripening quickly
during dry weather. Turn the bulbs over occasion-
ally with a wooden rake, until the green stalks have
become brown and dry, and then harvest; in doing
which remove as much of the decayed stalk as can
be detached from each in process of picking them up
and transferring them to baskets, for transmission
to dry shelves in sheds, &c. All stiff, seedy-stalked
ones should be removed from the general crop, to be
stored away. A dry, cool place is most suitable to
them. :
Continue to transplant Lettuces and Endive, as the
successional seedling plants upon seed-beds become
large enough for this purpose, tying up a few for
early uses as required. Prick out Cauliflower plants
when large enough on to an open sunny aspect,
where they can advance in sturdy growth, prepa-
ratory to placing them in their more permanent
winter quarters.
Sow small beds of Lettuce,’ Endive, Radishes,
Cauliflower, and any similar subject, to produce a
few late plants or crops, which, as “ catch crops,”
often come in very handy when hard winter
weather, &c., tax or injure the more permanent
ones. Well thin out the late Turnip crop, hoeing
deeply and well between it. Mould up the young
Cabbage plantation so soon as active growth is —
seen to commence, first making up any vacancies
that occur, and deeply hoeing between the rows.
Continue to gather all produce immediately it is fit
for table, whether really wanted for use or not. Any
neglect in regard to this must be avoided.
Remove all growing shoots from Tomatoes as they
continue to form, placing a large slate immediately
over the roots of each to keep off rains, a simple
practice which is conducive to the more immediate
ripening of the fruits.
Clear old Cucumber plants in an exhausted state
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 313
out of Cucumber-houses. Remove the soil, and
thoroughly cleanse the structure, washing and white-
washing as necessary. Then re-lay the drainage
base; cart in new soil, consisting of decomposed
turfy loam and thoroughly decomposed and sweetened
manure. Re-plant with the young Cucumber plants,
as prepared on former suggestions. Cucumbers so
planted now should be grown on robustly with a
liberal supply of air and moisture, to insure a good
basis for the ultimate winter cropping. Late Cucum-
bers in frames will require periodical manipulation,
or picking and cutting over, watering, &c., on the
principle previously explained. During the month
it will be needful also to renovate the linings. Re-
move the old, add fresh stable litter, well moisten-
ing with clear water such parts as are dry, shaking
both old and new materials well up together in
the process of renewing such linings. By doing
half the linings at one time, and the other half sub-
sequently, heat will be gradually increased.
October.
The work of harvesting crops delayed from last
month should be pushed rapidly along. Sharp
frosts occasionally occur early in the month, even
though immunity from such occurs for some weeks
subsequently. In like manner transplantings of all
kinds from seed-beds must be hurried forward, and
completed. Successional plantations from succession-
ally sown Lettuce, Endive, Cabbage, and other beds,
made in due manner, will prove an admirable safe-
guard against the exigencies of winter. Invariably
a percentage of all such young seedling plants are
lost, and it is often only by making successional
sowings that the progeny in some shape or other is
conserved in ample numbers for the demand. Thus,
early-sown seedlings give early and good results
following mild winters; whilst, on the other hand,
a severe winter often destroys such forward crops;
when happily foresight and provision, in the shape
of late sowings, steps in to fill up the gap.
Clear away the surface old growths from Aspa-
ragus, Sea-kale, Rhubarb, Artichokes, &c. Manure
each, after having well hoed between the stools if
necessary, and fork up the soil between them later
on. A little soil may be taken out of the alleys
between Asparagus and laid over the dressing of
manure placed upon them. ‘This will tend to make
the trenches somewhat lower, and to give better
drainage to the beds during seasons of heavy rain.
New plantations of Rhubarb and Horse-radish may
be made during the month.
Karly in the month collect the necessary materials
for indoor or winter-bearing Mushroom-beds. As it
is always desirable to procure such materials as are
dry, it will be well to shake them out of existing
fresh stable manure repositories, that have lain dry,
and during a dry period. Mushroom-houses should
be thoroughly cleansed, whitewashed, &c., and the
flues or heating medium in connection placed in good
order, in preparation.
Finish earthing up all Celery. The earliest, or such
as is to come into use next in succession, should, he-
sides being earthed up to the necessary extent, have
the soil at the apices of the mounds drawn tightly
together around the tops of the leaves in such manner
as to exclude the air. By this means alone is good
blanched Celery secured. Later crops are best left
open at this time, as it 1s better not to unduly blanch
the whole growth too long a time before required
for use.
Remove all old crops from the ground. Burn all
accumulation of such and other rubbish. Turn over
manure-heaps, carting on to vacant spaces such mate-
rials as are ready for transferring to the ground, and
as early as possible dig up all vacant ground, placing
the soil in ridges for the freer ingress of frosts, &c.,
which proves so beneficial to all cultivated soils,
those of old gardens more especially.
At this season sundry dead or decaying leaves
exist upon plantations of Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli,
&e., which it will be desirable to remove. By so
doing the plantations receive more fresh air, and are
kept drier during the winter season, facts which
conduce to improved prolificacy. Remove unripe
Tomatoes from the open ground on to a dry shelf,
where they will ripen in due season.
Plant Cauliflower plants into frames, or under,
hand-glasses. Do this moderately thickly, in such
manner that they can be wintered therein, and be
eventually thinned out or transplanted wholly on to
rich ground next spring.
Strong-grown Broccoli, especially such as exists
upon cold, stiff, and low-lying grounds, you must
“lay” with their heads towards the no1th. This
“heeling over” is readily performed by a handy
man, with very little injury to the roots.
Give another hoeing amongst all young crops,
drawing the soil up around such as need it; thinning
out late Spinach, Turnips, &c.; and give the neces-
sary attention to walks in the matter of sweeping,
rolling, &c. If at this season the fallen tree-
leaves, and, so to speak, the débris from Nature’s
autumn, be not kept constantly swept up and cleared
away, the walks will quickly become so foul as to
require double the amount of work thus originally
required, to bring them back into comfortable or
presentable appearance and usefulness.
Wovember.
Speculative sowings of Peas may be made during
the month, and as near to the tenth as may be con-
314
venient. Choose a warm sunny border for the pur-
pose, and where the soil is naturally dry and lght.
It should not be unduly manured. William I. and
improved forms of Dilliston’s Harly, &c., may be
sown. A border at the foot of a south-aspect wall
will be the most suitable place for this purpose.
Whilst in cold northern parts of the country these
early sowings require much care to bring them for-
ward successfully, nevertheless, more south, &c.,
there need be little difficulty with them. Broad
Beans may in like manner be sown across any ex-
posed open quarter of the garden. Care will be ne-
cessary to protect both from a variety of enemies,
which prey upon the seeds and the tender plants of
each subsequently when above ground, to which ex-
tended reference need not here be made.
Watch the weather, and transpose successional
batches of Lettuces and Endive from the open ground
to frames, as former crops are being used, and room
is thus made for them.- Give air to such frames, as
a deterrent of decay alone,should such exist; the
produce will grow as well, and be crisper, when kept
in airless frames, when no such symptoms of decay
occur. It is desirable always to tread the ground
firmly between such plants when lifted from the
open ground, with balls of earth attached as they
should be, and transplanted therein.
Look occasionally into the hearts of Walcheren
and Snow’s Broccolis and Veitch’s Cauliflower, to
ascertain whether any are showing symptoms of
flowering; taking care to well bend the leaves over
the centres where signs of such occur, and pull any
plants bodily where the flowers are moderately
advanced, putting them into a cool place beyond
reach of frost until required for use.
Take advantage of the first hard ground-frost to
wheel manure on to all vacant spaces, and subse-
quently proceed with the work of digging and
trenching with expedition. The chief object should
be to have all vacant spaces, whereon crops do not
exist, turned up as early as possible, so that it may
receive the full benefits of long and free exposure.
In turning it up, do not chop it to pieces, but let
each spitful le as roughly as possible. Subsequent
frost, air, &c., will thoroughly desiccate the lumps,
and level all in superior mellowness. Additions of
fresh soil, &c., may well be made to any parts of the
kitchen garden at this season: fences, ditches,
drainage, and so on, attended to, walks turned, Box
edgings re-planted, and all similar work performed
at this less busy period of the year.
Look over stores of Potatoes, Onions, and all
other root-crops, removing all signs of decay, and
sorting to suit future intentions in regard to each.
Make up the Mushroom-beds, and collect materials
for successional beds as necessary.
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
Where forced vegetables are required early, or as
near to Christmas and the new year as possible, it
will be necessary to commence forcing such during
the month of November. Sea-kale and Rhubarb
forced under fermenting materials out of doors,
should have such fermenting materials collected and
placed over the stools or crowns about the middle
of the month. First, however, look over the stools,
remove all litter from around the crowns, especially
any form of decay, and place a small heap of cinder-
ashes over each. Upon it place the forcing-pots
and their covers. The fermenting materials will be
best if placed in a heap and permitted to ferment
before they are neatly packed over a given space, or
number of such stools. By this means heat will be
quicker and more uniform. See that the pots fit
down tightly on the ground, and that the lids are
tight, &c., else the excessive steam in association
with great heat may injure and rot the crowns
before they commence to move. Do not omit to
place test-sticks in this material, and to examine
them frequently to ascertain whether the heat is
ample, or fluctuations of too great extent occur.
Roots of Sea-kale, and of Rhubarb, may also be
carefully dug up and placed in heat, for a like pur-
pose. Both air and light must be scrupulously ex-
cluded from the former, to insure perfect whiteness.
Chicory and Dandelion roots should be placed ©
in warm Mushroom-houses, to force a growth for
salading. Such houses should be kept dark, and air
should be excluded from them, or they will not be
properly blanched for use.
December.
In connection with the ground work, such as
digging, trenching, &c., it is often convenient to
renew or enlarge plantations of Rhubarb, Sea-kale,
&c. For instance, the old bed-space of these and
of Horse-radish can often at this period of the year
be better trenched and prepared for such than
during other more busy seasons. As concerns the
Sea-kale and Horse-radish, the old growth may
be severally and variously utilised. The roots of
Sea-kale so taken up should have the crown portions
cut into lengths fit for present forcing, or to be re-
dibbled into the ground, on the principles advised
under the head of its general culture. All lesser
roots may be cut into three-inch lengths, and buried
up to the upper apices in rows, in a convenient
place for forming young plants for the future. The
larger base of each stool of Horse-radish, store for
use, cutting off crowns also with short lengths of
root-base for planting in the proper way. Dz?
vide Rhubarb if the stools have more than three
crowns each. Take care to elevate all such dormant
subjects somewhat, when re-planting them at such a
“ =" 7
Se
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 315
season, on newly-worked ground. Otherwise next
spring, when growth should be in progress, they will
be found to have become unduly buried in the soil,
and deep planting is always adverse to nature’s
teachings and proper progress in the matter of
excellence of growth and produce. In favourable
localities, sowings of Peas and Broad Beans may be
made during a mild period, both in instances where
November sowings were honoured in the observance
and otherwise.
Should late rows of Celery require more earth
added to the mounds, take care to do so during dry
weather. As one row of Celery is used up, give
attention to the closing of the soil around the apices
of the leaves of succeeding ones, in such manner as
to deter the air from entering, to insure perfect
blanching of the produce. ‘This simple operation
should be done generally about three weeks before
each row is actually required for use. During very
severe weather, it is well to place a layer of light
litter, such as Bracken Fern or light straw, along the
sides and over the foliage of each row. Without
such a slight protection severe frosts often penetrate
down to the crop, and injure if not destroy it.
Even during this month, should a fine dry period
exist, if will be excellent practice to lightly hoe
amongst beds of Spinach, Lettuce, Endive, Parsley,
&c. The very process of stirring the soil proves an
incentive to enduring plant-vigour. Take up, pot,
and place roots of Mint and Tarragon in heat,
Make sowings of dwarf French Beans, sow small
salading; place light coverings of straw litter, or
straw hurdles, &c., over young Radishes. Take up
Parsnips, Horse-radish, &c., when severe frosts are
anticipated. Extend and renew the fermenting
materials upon Rhubarb and Sea-kale, or take np
more stools and place in position for forcing, so as to
insure constant supplies.
Give attention weekly to Snow’s, Walcheren, and
similar tender crops hearting in. Spawn Mushroom
beds, making up others to follow, and collect ma-
terials for further successions. Look through
frames of Lettuces and Endives.
it becomes exhausted from the largest plants, taken
up carefully from the contingent still without-doors.
Following any decided change in the weather,
especially if it be a severe frost, the general out-door
crops will need looking through, for the removal of
dead plants or decaying leaves. Make up vacancies
in the autumn-planted Cabbage-beds. Place pro-
tection over Cauliflowers in frames, &c., should very
Severe weather exist. Keep Spinach picked, an
operation which benefits the plants when properly
performed, the larger and more succulent leaves only
being carefully removed. Again look over all vege-
_ table stores; scrt Potatoes, placing those intended
Renew the bed, as”
for seeds, or “sets,” in a cool airy place, and as
thinly together as possible.
Carefully give air to house-grown Cucumbers, on
all favourable occasions. Keep up a good heat of
about 75° by day with 10° less by night, anda
nice atmospheric moisture to counteract its drying
influences. Should mildew appear upon the leaves,
slightly dust with flowers of sulphur; give careful
attention to deep root-watering, in accordance with
the system of artificial bottom heat employed.
Finally, push forward all ground work; but do
not wheel and tread upon ground during very wet
weather; choose moderately dry weather for all
such work. There is a proper time and condition for
even trivial operations, and soil once puddled into
semi-mud is ruined, or injured, for at least a whole
season.
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.
By WiLLIAM HuGH GOWER.
Myrsiphyllum (W. asparagoides) is an elegant
scandent plant belonging to the Lilyworts, and nearly
allied to the genus Asparagus, of which there are
several very beautiful species now introduced ; but
as they require more heat than is afforded by an
ordinary green-house, they must be left for the
stove-plant section. ‘The present plant even likes a
little extra comfort in winter, so that it will be ad-
visable to place it in a snug corner. It is a slender-
growing plant, with much-branched zigzag branches ;
the so-called leaves, which are in reality modified
branches, and assume the appearance of leaves, are ~
ovate-lanceolate, and taper toa point, bright green
above, paler below; the flowers are small, but pro-
duced very freely, purest white, and very fragrant.
The branches of Myrsiphylium are admirably adapted
for dinner-table decoration, or, when in bloom, for
the embellishment of a lady’s hair, whilst as a rafter
plant it has few equals. There is a variety called
M. angustifolium, but it is scarcely any different ;
another plant, named M. falcatum, does appear some-
what distinct, especially in its blooms.
It flowers all through the winter months, and
seems to be widely scattered about Africa round the
Cape of Good Hope.
Myrtus.—The Myrtle has always been popular
with gardeners and amateur plant-growers; indeed,
the ‘old lady” population of these realms have
always had a peculiar penchant for a Myrtle-bush
in the window. Ropart says they were first culti-
vated in the gardens of Sir Francis Carew, at Bed-
dington, in Surrey.
The order Myrtacee is a large one, and contains
316
many plants of great beauty, and not a few highly
valuable from an economic
and commercial point of ©
view.
The species and varieties
of Myrtle in cultivation are
not numerous. JM. com-
munis, which is generally
considered a native of the
South of Europe, is not
really so; and though now
so abundant throughout
Spain, Italy, and the South
of France, it has been at
some remote period brought
into these countries from
Persia. It is a plant with
shining bright green leaves,
which, as well as its pure
white flowers, are very fra-
grant. Then we have the
Double-flowered Myrtle, J.
communis fl. pl., the Box-
leaved, the Orange-leaved,
and the Rosemary-leaved
Myrtle, and a very small-
leaved kind called Jenny
Reichenbach, which is grown
chiefly for forming ground-
work to bouquets and mixing
with cut flowers.
The cultivation of Myr-
tles is very simple; they
thrive well in a mixture of
two parts light sandy loam
to one of leaf-mould, and
will grow in almost any
place. Their pretty white
flowers are produced natu-
rally during the spring and
summer months, but if re-
quired in winter the plants
should be placed in heat
some time in autumn.
WNerium.—tThese plants
are better known by the
name of Oleander ; the spe-
cies is a native of the Le-
vant, and is recorded, with
the Orange and Myrtle, to
be among the oldest green-
house plants cultivated in
this country, and long natu-
1alised in the South of
Europe. Although so very
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
NerRIuM OLEANDER.
beautiful, the whole of the plant is poisonous to man;
notwithstanding this, how- —
ever, the splendid larva of
the Oleander Sphinx Moth
(Cherocampa nerii) thrives
well upon its poisonous
leaves.
These plants should be
propagated from cuttings in
spring, and, when rooted,
potted singly in small pots:
keep them growing freely,
and well supplied with water,
and re-pot when necessary ;
these cuttings will flower the
same season. After flower-
ing cut them back a short
distance, and place them in
a little heat to induce a short
growth before winter; in
spring re-pot if necessary,
and encourage free growth
by keeping them well sup-
plied with water. This pro-
cess must be repeated each
season. For soil use loam,
peat, leaf-mould, and well-
decomposed manure, in equal
parts.
Nerium Oleander, and its
variety splendens, have large
double rose-coloured flowers
borne upon many-branched
panicles, which last a long
time in full beauty, and are
deliciously fragrant. There
is also a variety called album,
with pure white flowers. It
sometimes happens that
young shoots start out from
the base of the flower-stem,
which, if allowed to grow,
will entirely spoil the bloom
—they must, therefore, be
pinched or cut out as soon
as seen.
Passiflora.—tThis genus
consists of grand climbing
plants, that are the glory of
the tropical and sub-tropical
forests of the New World, a
few species only being found
in Asia and Africa. They
are popularly known as
“‘ Passion-flowers,”” from a
———— eS
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 317
fancied resemblance which the early Christian tra-
vellers imagined, in their joy at the discovery of
these gorgeous plants, to the instruments used at
the Crucifixion of our Lord. Thus the stigma is
said to represent the nails, two for the hands and
one for the feet; the five anthers represent the
five wounds, the rays of the corona represent the
crown of thorns, the ten rays of the perianth repre-
sent the ten Apostles, this number only being pre-
sent, as Judas had betrayed his Master, and Peter
had denied Him, so that both were absent; whilst the
“ay
ny A
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eager hands of His cruel persecutors are represented
by the five-lobed leaves, which bear the tendrils,
representing the scourges.
Passifioras, from a horticultural point of view,
take rank amongst the most desirable of climbers;
the great majority require stove-heat, but those
given here are admirably adapted for green-house or
conservatory.
There is very little trouble in the cultivation of
Passifloras. If potted or planted out, which is better,
in equal parts of peat, leaf-mould, loam, and sand,
they will make vigorous growth, and bloom pro-
fusely. The various species of Passifloras have
more or less digitate leaves, and it will not be neces-
sary to describe anything but the colours of the
flowers.
P. cwerulea.—In many parts of the country this
is perfectly hardy, but in places where it will not
live in the open air it makes a fine green-house
plant; a profuse bloomer; flowers white and blue.
\
AN
\\
PASSIFLORA C@RULEA.
It blooms during the whole of the summer season.
Brazii.
P. cerulea racemosa.—A free-growing but not
rampant variety, obtained many years ago by cross-
breeding ; the flowers are reddish-purple, and bloom
in profusion all through the summer and autumn
months.
P. Bellotti.—Of moderately free growth, this gar-
den hybrid produces its pink and white flowers all
through the summer months.
P. Hartwegiana.—This is well adapted for small
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houses; flowers white
and blue.
P. Impératrice
Eugénie.—One of the
very best for green-
houses of moderate
dimensions; flowers
large, rosy-pink and
white.
P. onychina. — A
free grower and also a profuse bloomer; the flowers
are of a light purple colour. Buenos Ayres.
Pentapterygium.—aAccording to some authors,
the plants comprised in this genus have been need-
lessly separated from Vacciniwm ; they are extremely
beautiful, and require the same treatment as Cerato-
stema.
P. favum.—A. shrubby plant with alternate deep
green leaves, which are broadly-lanceolate, tapering |
318 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
to a point, and sparingly toothed at the edges;
flowers in short racemes near the tops of the shoots,
drooping, flowers numerous, tubular, with promi-
nent ribs, rich yellow, a colour rarely found in this
order of plants. North-eastern India; 400 to 500
feet elevation.
P. rugosum.— A somewhat lax- growing shrub,
forming a thick, gouty stem, and growing naturally
upon the branches of the iarge forest trees; leaves
broadly-lanceolate, tapering to a point, and toothed
at the edges; these, when young, are tinged with
reddish-purple, becoming deep green with age;
flowers drooping, on long foot-stalks; tubes sharply
five-angled, shining white,
transversely banded with
lines of cinnamon, and
tipped with green; calyx
large, blood-red; springand
early summer. Northern
India.
Phenocoma.—A
showy member of the As-
teracee, known also as
Helichrysum, from which
genus, however, it differs
in the arrangement of the
florets. For culture, see
Aphelexis, to which it is
nearly allied.
P. prolifera.—The only
species; has curious small
granular leaves, which are
-densely set on the woolly
stems; the flower-heads
are terminal and very
showy; the texture is dry
and chaffy; colour reddish-crimson.
summer months, Cape of Good Hope.
P. prolifera Barnesii is similar in habit of growth
to the species; but the flowers are of a uniform rich
deep crimson. Summer and autumn months. Of
garden origin.
Spring and
Phormium.—tThe one species in this genus of
Liliacee is popularly known as the New Zealand
Flax; it contains a great quantity of very strong
fibre, which the natives prepare and make articles of
clothing from, &c.; but there is some peculiarity
about it which prevents it coming into the European
market.
Phormium is an extremely ornamental plant, and
quickly attains a large size; pot'in rich loam, and
increase by division.
It is found only in New Zealand and Norfolk
Island.
PHORMIUM TENAX.
P. tenax.—Leaves erect, five to six feet or more
long; ensiform; arranged in a two-ranked (dis-
tichous) manner; sheathing at the base, and deep
shining green in colour.
This plant is quite hardy in many parts of the
kingdom ; forms a noble ornament in the conserva-
tory, and is very effective in the open air during
summer.
P. tenax Colensoi variegatum.—This is a highly
ornamental plant; less robust than the type, and
consequently better adapted for green-houses of
smaller dimensions; the habit is more erect; leaves
bright green, with a broad white marginal band.
P. tenax variegatum.—
Similar in size and habit
to the type; leaves dark
green, with longitudinal
bands of rich yellowish-
white.
P. tenax atropurpureum.
—A small-growing form,
the leaves being of a beau-
tiful deep reddish-purple
colour throughout.
P. tenax Veitchit varie-
gatum.—In habitsomewhat
resembling PP. Colensoi ;
but the leaves, instead of
being bordered with white,
are striped with bright
golden-yellow.
There are mumerous
other varieties. All are
beautiful, and all have
some distinctive character.
Pimelea, — A_ large
family of slender-growing, handsome shrubs, be-
longing tothe order Thymelacee. When well grown
they are unequalled for public exhibition, and are
equally valuable as home decorators.
In potting, use a mixture of two parts peat, one
part light loam, and a fair proportion of sharp sand ;
they require great care in watering, just keeping
them in the happy medium between wet and dry
during the growing season; shade from the strong
sunshine, and during the latter part of summer
place them in a cool frame, where they may obtain a
free circulation of air and shelter from heavy rains.
A watchful eye must be kept upon them during
winter, to keep mildew or damp from injuring their
foliage.
Pimeleas are natives of Australia and New Zea-
land.
P. decussata.—Leaves opposite and set crossways —
(decussate); dark green on the upper side, paler
-GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.
below; flowers arranged in dense terminal heads;
bright pink. Early summer months.
P. diosmefolia.—A larger-growing plant than the
preceding, which it otherwise resembles; terminal
heads of flowers large; clear rose-colour. Summer.
P. elegans.—A fine showy plant, with broad, some-
what ovate leaves; heads of bloom large and dense ;
flowers pale straw-colour. Spring months.
P. Hendersonii.icAn erect species, with slender
branches and bright green leaves, and an abundant
bloomer; flowers rich pink. Early summer months.
P. hispida.—A small-growing plant, with lnear
oblong-lanceolate leaves, and bluish-white heads of
flowers. Spring months.
P. linifolia.—Leaves linear, dark green; heads of
flowers white. Summer months. .
P. Neippergiana.—A. compact-habited plant, with
densely-set dark green leaves, and large heads of
snow-white flowers. Spring and early summer.
P. rosea.—A small plant of close habit; leaves
linear-lanceolate, heads of flowers deep rosy-pink.
Spring and early summer.
P. spectabilis—One of the strongest- growing
species ; leaves linear-lanceolate, pale green; heads
very large, downy, snow-white. May and June.
P. spectabilis rosea.—Resembling type, bearing large
heads of downy rosy-purple flowers. May and June.
Plumbago. — Fast- growing plants, some of
which are very handsome; and amongst them are
some peculiar species, or rather, the properties found
in them are put to peculiar purposes. LP. scandens,
the Herbe du Diable of the island of San Domingo, is
very active as a blistering agent, and is said to be
used for affections of the liver, whilst P. ewropea is
used by mendicants of the South of Europe to pro-
duce artificial sores. P. capensis, if allowed to grow
without any pinching back, will make very long
shoots, and in this state is admirably adapted for
covering pillars or training upon rafters, but if regu-
larly attended to in the way of stopping, may be kept
in bush form. The leaves are oblong, entire, thin in
texture, and pale green; it produces immense quan-
' tities of large heads of flowers, which are steel-blue
in colour.
season,
It flowers more or less during the whole
Cape of Good Hope.
Polygala.—A genus of Milk-worts, which give
their name to the order Polygalacee ; they are pretty
widely distributed, and many of them have valuable
medicinal properties. The green-house kinds are all
natives of the Cape of Good Hope, and form hand-
some specimens.
Polygalas are all plants of free growth and easy
culture, and thrive best in a compost of two parts
peat, one of loam, and one of sand. After the
flowering season is over the knife should be applied
319
freely, or the plants will become straggling, and
lose their bottom leaves.
P. Dalmaisiana is a vigorous grower, with purple
flowers; the lower petal in all the species is keel-
shaped and beautifully frmged, which gives the
members of this genus a very distinctive character.
May and June.
P. myrtifolia grandiflora.—Leaves smooth, oblong-
acute; racemes of purple flowers, which are much
larger than in the original species. ‘Summer months.
P. oppositifolia major.—Leaves opposite, oblong-
acute; flowers bright purple; an improved form of
the species. May and June.
' Primula sinensis.— These are among the
most popular and useful of all our autumn, winter,
and spring blooming greenhouse plants. There are
now many improved varieties, chiefly the result of
careful selection and crossing, though obviously all
obtained from the original pale pink species intro-
duced in 1820. ‘We have now a rich variety of
flower and foliage of every shade of colour, from
purest white to deep crimson; and of all shapes,
forms, and degrees of doubleness—fimbriated, ser-
rated, single, semi-double, double, almost to perfect
spheres. The old double white is, however, still one
of the best, the readiest propagated, and easiest
grown. The real double varieties can only be in-
creased through layers or cuttings; while the single
and semi-double varieties are readily raised from
seed. To ensure a long succession of bloom through
the early autumn and winter, successional sowings
may be made from March to May. Sow in well-
drained shallow pans, pots, or boxes, in a mixture
of equal parts of leaf-mould, peat, and sand, and cover
lightly with fine soil or sand. Cover with a square
of glass to preserve moisture and protect the seeds.
A temperature of about 55° is most favourable to
their germination. So soon as up remove the glass,
_and gradually inure to light and air in frames, or on
greenhouse shelf. When the plants have formed
three ‘leaves, prick off or pot singly in small pots.
So soon as these are filled with-roots, shift again into
larger, or at once into five-inch pots, a size suffi-
ciently large for blooming the stock of Chinese
primroses. For the last shift a mixture of equal
parts of peat, loam, and rotten manure, or leaf-
mould, with a liberal addition of sand, is the best.
Let the base of the plants rest on the soil; they must
not be buried; and it is good practice to place three
small stakes in a triangle round the crown to keep
the plants steady, as they get top-heavy with foliage
and bloom. A temperature of 50° to 55° is not only
the most suitable for growth, but also for blooming,
though most of the doubles—notably the old white
—will bear five degrees more heat.
320
The so-called fern-leaved varieties (jilicifolia) and
fimbriated strains—white and red—are the most
valued. Among other of the finer strains are—
Marginata.
Meteor.
Scarlet Gem.
Swanley Giant.
White Perfection.
Alba magnifica.
Braid’s Seedling.
Chiswick Red.
Coccinea.
Improvement.
DovuBLEs.
Miss Eva Fish.
Peach Blossom.
Princess of Wales.
&e. &e.
Candidissima.
Duke of Edinburgh.
King of Purples.
Magnifica.
Marchioness of Exeter.
The doubles are specially valuable for bouquets,
wreaths, and all decorative
purposes, from their lasting
properties.
Psammisia. — Hand-
some Vaccineaceous shrubs.
Treatment same as for
Ceratostema, which see.
P. Hookeriana.—A hand-
some species, which has
been distributed under the
name of Thibaudia pichin-
chensis, var. glabra; the
branches are angular and
smooth, ovate - lanceolate,
‘and dark green; racemes
many-flowered, drooping,
deep rosy-red. Summer
months. From Columbia.
P. longicolla.—
Leaves large,
ovate - lanceolate,
and tapering ‘to a
long point, thick
and leathery in
texture, deep
green ; racemes Fig. 2.—Crab Stock.
axillary, many =
flowered, pendulous; flowers tubular, swollen at the
base, which is deep crimson ; upper part of tube much
contracted and yellowish-green. South America.
P. penduliflora.—An erect evergreen plant, with
long, broadly-ovate, entire leaves, which suddenly
sper to a point, deep green above, paler below;
racemes axillary, many-flowered, and pendulous;
flowers tubular, stoutest at the base, rich vermilion,
tipped with yellowish-green. Caraccas.
P. sclerophylia.—A somewhat stout-growing plant,
with ovate entire leaves, which in the young state
are tinged with red, changing with age to deep
green; racemes axillary; flowers large, drooping;
tubes swollen at the base, rich crimson, tipped with
yellow and creamy-white. New Grenada.
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.
By D. T. FISH, ASSISTED BY WILLIAM CARMICHAEL.
APPLES—PRUNING AND FORMING.
HOUGH the practice of forcing Apple and other
fruit-trees into form at the edge or point of the
knife is giving place to the more rational one of
moulding growth into shape in the making, yet all
pruning and training is so closely correlated in the
early life of fruit-trees, that it will be best to treat
the two abreast.
Root and Top.—All the modern stocks, such
as those of the Creeping
Apples, Nonsuch, English
and French Paradise —
notably the two last—
differ materially from th?
wilding Crab of the woods
in the character and num-
ber of their roots. The
latter roots more like a
Blackthorn or wilding
Rose than almost any other
plant.
Work them upon fibrous-
rooted stocks, and the roots
will dwarf the tops, ana
also favour fertility. Figs.
2 and3 will make this clear.
The first represents the
root of a crab; the second,
that of the Para-
dise Apple stock.
The Paradise and
other stocks run
naturally into fib-
rous growths; but
this tendency may
be further devel-
oped by treatment,
while even the roots of Crabs may be led into fibrous
forms by pruning and culture.
Fig. 3.—Paradise Stock,
Root-pruning.—Sc important and close is the
connection between a fibrous condition of root in the
Apple and other fruit-trees, and dwarfing character
and fertile habits of top, that root-pruning should
precede top-pruning. From the time the stocks are
moved from the nursery beds or rows until the Apples,
after one or several removes, are planted in their final
quarters in the orchard or fruit garden, the trees have
perforce been subjected to a series of root-prunings.
In addition, however, to those forcible ruptures
and removals, it was left for modern pomologists to
discover the enormous advantages of direct and special
¢
THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.
root-pruning, not only of young trees, but of others
when necessary. Two tell-tales on the trees them-
selves indicate, with unerring certainty, alike the time
and extent to which it should be carried. These are
the vigour of the wood, and partial or complete
sterility. A skilful use of the knife on the roots is
an infallible cure for both.
To prevent the necessity of multiplying illustra-
tions, it may be stated that by root-pruning the
Crab (Fig. 2) it may be forced into a fibrous condi-
tion of root closely resembling Fig. 3. Not that the
321
for the healing of wounds on old roots and the
development of whole hosts of new fibrous ones as
swect fine leaf-mould. However, as this is seldom
within reach of amateurs and mechanics, any sweet
fine soil or nourishing compost will do as a helpful
stimulus to pruned roots. The roots will recover
and assume a fibrous character without such aids ;
but these hasten the processes, and hence should be
used when procurable.
Figs. 4 and 5 will illustrate and render more clear
the theory and practice and effects of root-pruning.
Fig. 4.—Apple Stock not pruned.
roots will be transformed from the gross fangy
- condition into a network of fibres all at once; but
through a series of careful surgical: operations on the
larger fangs, or by detailed manipulations on the
sub-fangs, a fibrous condition may be forced, and
fo a very considerable extent perpetuated. AI this,
too, may be aided by culture as well as by pruning:
just as patients who have to submit to amputa-
tions are carefully dieted with nourishing yet
suitable food, so roots may be nourished through
their pruning crises, and modified in form by special
culture or food. One of the most potent applica-
tions after root-forming is a slight dressing of sweet
and well-rotted leaf-mould. Unfortunately the
general and careless use of this root-resuscitating,
root-developing compost led to its being used too
fresh, rank, or sour, the consequence in many cases
being the formation of most destructive root-fungus
among fruit-trees; but, if of good quality and suffi-
_ ciently decomposed, there is no compost so favourable
45
Fig. 5.—Same Stock root-pruned.
In Fig. 4 the young Apple-tree has not been pruned
at all, and both roots and tops are distinguished by
vigour and verticality, to coin an expressive word.
Were timber and stability our aim, this is the form
of tree to be desired. In Fig. 5 the roots and the
branches are nearly alike numerous, and both incline
to horizontal rather than vertical growth. This form,
as already remarked, tends to promote fertility, and
to develop that tendency to the uttermost. It is need-
ful, however, to bear in mind that the root-pruning of
Apple and other trees weakens or destroys the hold-
fast character of the roots. This function of the
roots is of far more moment in orchards or other ex-
posed places, than within the shelter of the fruit
garden. Small trees also need it less than larger
ones, while horizontal Cordon, Espalier, or wall
trees, neither need nor call into action the holdfast
character of roots. Taller trees, however, such as
Pyramids, and large bushes on fibrous-rooted stocks,
or severely root-pruned ones, must be kept firm with
_ 3822
stakes or other supports, to compensate them for the
withdrawal of their natural supports—vertical roots
—and their conversion into fibrous and horizontal
ones.
It will be observed that much importance is
attached to the position and direction, as well as the
form and character of the roots, and this not without
the best of reasons. ‘The best food and most favour-
able influences for the roots of Apple and other fruit- .
trees are found within an average of between twelve
and twenty-four inches of the surface of the ground.
By so modifying the roots of fruit-trees as to force
them to continue in this surface tilth, we shall give
good security for their health, strength, and fertility,
and hence, largely, the permanent and lasting benefit
of root-pruning.
Should, however, the roots regain a vertical
position, and the tops respond to them by vigorous
growth and less fruit, nothing can be simpler than
to uncover, examine, and if needful prune the roots
afresh. This may be done all at once, or at twice, or
even at three times. The root-pruning of established
Apple or other fruit-trees at two operations is safest
for amateurs. But the roots should be approached
from east and west, and not from north and south.
Approaching to the centre of the bole as here directed,
about half the roots would probably be found on
either side of the bole. Approach it from north and
south, probably three-fourths, perhaps nine-tenths, of
the roots would be found on the south side of the
bole.
As to the best season to root-prune, from the end of
October to the end of the year is the best time, the
whole of ‘November being the most favourable of all.
Experienced pomologists, however, have root-pruned
even at midsummer with positive advantage. Root-
-prunings, however, during the full growth of top,
ought to be done tentatively, and are better left
to those endowed with special skill and ripe
experience. Guided by these, root-pruning might
be performed at almost any season, excepting that
when the sap is in full motion in the spring, and
before the buds have burst into leafage. Roots
pruned at that special season are prone to bleed
profusely, and so impoverish the trees of vital force.
The roots are also slow to heal, or to emit fresh roots,
under such conditions. Practically, and excepting
for experts, root-pruning had better be limited to the
periods included between the last week of October
and the first of January.
As to the method of root-pruning, it should be
performed with as much or more painstaking care
than that of the tops of trees.
The matter is simple enough in the case of trans-
planted trees. Transplantation itself, as already
indicated, necessitates a certain amount of root-
CASSELL’S. POPULAR GARDENING.
pruning. This is mostly supplemented by the
removal of all injured or misplaced roots by the
knife. If the roots still need reduction, or trans-
forming into smaller and more fibrous ones, the
stronger ones should be cut through. But in the
case of trees already planted, uncovering should
precede pruning, though the mere fact of un-
covering and detaching fixed roots from the soil,
even were all the roots left intact, which is impos-
sible, is tantamount to root-pruning. .
In addition to this, however, the direct cutting back
of strong roots, or reduction of superfluous ones, may
be required. A keen-
edged knife should be
used, and the cuts should
be made at a short acute
angle from the bottom
of the roots upwards.
If one or more small
fibres appear on the
main root, it is wise,
where practicable, to cut
back to this. Clean cuts,
and the roots returned
to earth as quickly as
possible, are among the
surest aids to success in
the root-pruning of the
Apple or other trees. If
the trees are pruned
tentatively—one-half or
a third at a time—the
pruning may be renewed
every year till finished
—unless, however, the
character of the top
erowth has been so Wi
checked and modified as ee
to prove that the main “4 cS
roots have been suffi-
ciently pruned. In that
case the wise saw of
letting well alone is most
appropriate, for root-pruning is not desirable in
itself, only as a means to an end; and the end—
moderate growth and fertility—being already reached,
there is no rational motive for pushing the root-
pruning further. Notes should, however, be made
of these partially root-pruned trees, and should they
again fall into sterile ways, the process may be
renewed at the point where it was left on the former
occasion.
The permanent effects of root-pruning are not
only seen in less top growth and more fruit, but it
also reduces top-pruning to the lowest limits.
will be readily understood.
left full length, showing
fruit-buds plumped up in
the autumn.
Fig. 6.—Cordon planted and
Thisi
THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 323
So much is this the case at times, that not a few
fruit-trees on dwarfing stocks are hardly pruned at
all. The best lot of garden Apples ever grown by
the writer were from maiden plants about fifteen
inches long on the French Paradise stocks. They
were so finely rooted that a good many roots were
also pruned off at planting. The tops were, however,
left at full length, tied down, and fastened to wires
fitteen inches trom the ground. During the summer
the tiny trees for a time seemed to have a severe
struggle for life. Each bud, however, broke at last,
from base to summit. During the season no exten-
sion of the leading shoots nor side shoots was formed.
Summer Pinching.—lIt may seem almost ab-
surd, in an article on pruning and forming, to point
out the possibility of abolishing the former alto-
gether. This, indeed, is seldom possible. Whatever
system, however, can be devised to lessen its amount
is likely to prove a clear gain of time and profit to
the Apple-grower or general pomologist. The old
system of cutting back all maiden trees very hard—
that is, heading them back, as it was called—is dead
or dying fast. Not only are dwarfing stocks, root-
pruning, the leaving of the top full or partial length,
in league to abolish it, but so is summer pinching or
stopping. By these simple and prompt processes of
Fig. 7.—Apple-shoot
unstopped.
The few leaves produced, however, nurtured one or
more fruit-buds under their axils, which were well
plumped up before the leaves fell in the autumn
(see Fig. 6). The following spring, those cordons
thus formed were pinked over from base to ex-
tremity with blossom, in due time developing into
fruit. A full crop was left, the fruit crowding one
upon the other; and from that day to this, those
trees have had little, several of them scarcely
any pruning, and they have never missed a
crop unless when the frost has blighted them.
Three things combined to develop their fertility
to the uttermost—the Doucin stocks, root-prun-
ing, and the strain of the full-lengthed tops on
the roots.
This extreme case is cited less as an example to be
generally followed, than as an illustration of the im-
portant fact that root-pruning lessens and may
even, in certain cases, abolish the necessity for top-
pruning.
Fig. 8.—-Apple-shoot stopped once.
Fig. 9.—Apple-shoot stopped twice.
arresting growth and distributing force, the growth
of fishing-rods for the knife, as in Fig. 7, is pre-
vented, and two or more seasons’ growths of a more
fruitful, and therefore satisfactory, character are
concentrated into one, as in Figs. 8 and 9.
Like most other systems, summer pinching, when
first introduced, was carried to excess, and induced
in many cases weakness, disease, or immaturity.
But the system is good, as a whole, nevertheless.
Throughout the greater part of Great Britain, the
current year’s shoots of Apples and Pears and other
hardy fruits may be pinched back about mid-
summer, and the second crop of wood from the
stopped shoots be sufficiently matured before winter.
In warmer and more southern positions, the shoots
may be stopped twice—early in June and again in
August—and the third shoots of the season yet be
ripened. But it needs warm soils, sites, and locali-
ties for this. Neither is it needful. Once stopping,
and the more even redistribution of force and multi-
plication of shoots which follow, are sufficient for our
purpose, and lay the basis of the young tree a year
sooner, and as sound and well or better than could
have been done in double the
time on the older system of
erowing wood for the knife.
Nor is the saving of time
the only benefit, though that
is very great. As the roots
modify top growth, and to a
very great extent subordinate
its character to their own
likeness, so do the tops of
trees their roots. Hence, a
branching tree of moderate
extent favours, if it does not
actually force, a similar style
and character of roots; and
thus root-pruning forms, as it
were, two correlative and con-
secutive links in the chain
Fig. 11.—Maiden Tree un- Fig. 12.—Cut back at end of
,_ stopped. first season’s growth.
that moulds the trees into form and forces them into
fertility.
Summer pinching or stopping also promotes good
form in Apple or other fruit-trees py laying the
foundation of the tree near to the root-stock. This
is most important in these days of the concentration
of force and the husbanding of space, as it will en-
able the grower to reap the most produce from
limited areas. This system of keeping the trees at
home in the making, also results in developing great
beauty of form in Apple and other fruit-trees. And
though, doubtless, utility should be the main object
~
tion of the tree, is likely to ensue.
rather anticipating, and refers more to cultural —
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
in fruit-culture, none can object to have their
fruit-trees moulded into models of symmetry to
please the eye, as well as examples of fertility to
satisfy the palate. Apple-trees
feathered down to the base of
the root-stock are also far
more likely to remain healthy
than others that are mounted
on Crab or other stilts of
considerable height. Not a
few of the latter, however,
have lived and fruited for a
century or more; and, of
course, at present, experience
is lacking as to the durability
of dwarf or Pyramidal Apples
on the Paradise or other
dwarfing stocks. So impor-
tant, however, has growth
near to the root-stocks of
Apples been considered, that
Fig. 13.—Second year’s growth of Fig. 11: three shoots, with
no fruit-buds.
not seldom have wilding shoots been left on the stems
of stocks to sustain vigorous growth, and insure a
full flow of sap between the roots aud the tops of
the trees. This simple expedient of a few wilding
shoots left for a time on tall standard Apple-trees,
has proved the best antidote and cure for the
hide-bound condition into which they frequently
fall. This method of mcreasing the volume of
sap must not, however, be carried to excess, or
sterility, or starvation of the most valuable por-
But this is —
a ae
THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 325
expedients than the pruning and training of trees
into form.
Maiden Trees.— The majority of trees, as
they come from nurseries, are called ‘‘ maidens,” and
consist of one stem, varying in length from six
inches to six feet. As a rule, the maidens are a
yard in length. This form of tree is the start-
ing-point fur all the rich variety of form, such as
Cordon, Pyramid, Bush, Espalier, Wall, Standard,
and Dwarf, now so common among Apple and other
fruit-trees. The maiden may be said to be the
primitive foundation of all others. Until quite
recently it was looked upon as a necessity. Now,
however, not a few raisers and sellers of fruit-trees
dispense with their
one-stemmed maidens.
By pinching _ their
shoots once or twice
during the summer,
three or five stems may
be produced of a more
serviceable character.
For example, instead
of the maiden tree re-
sembling Fig. 7 to-
wards the end of the
season, it may, by a
single stopping, say in
June, be converted in- — SS
to Fig. 8; or by two Fig. 14.—Wood-
stoppings—one at the paket
end of May, and an-
other early in July—be developed in a single season
into the rudimentary Bush Apple-tree (Fig. 9).
Nor is this all that is gained by single or double
stopping. Observe the difference of the buds on the
lower and upper portion of the stems of Figs. 8
and 9. The difference of size in both cases indicates a
difference of character and of function. The plump
round buds on the base of these trees show them to
be fruit-buds, while the whole of the buds on the
unstopped maiden (Fig. 7) are wood-buds, thus
showing that judicious stopping, as well as a wise
selection and treatment of stock, hastens fertility
as well as accelerates the formation of the tree.
Fig. 10, a form mostly resulting from a single stop-
page of a maiden during its first year’s growth, is
already on the high road to becoming a Pyramid,
Espalier, or any other desired form of Apple-tree.
Contrast this with the one-stemmed maiden (Fig. 11)
as received from the nursery, the same cut back
in the spring (Fig. 12), and grown into three shoots
in the subsequent summer (Fig. 13), and it will at
once be seen that a whole year has been saved in time,
and more than a year in condition. It is impossible
Fig. 15.—Fruit-
buds.
to exaggerate the importance of this latter difference.
The trees having made one vigorous shoot, and a
root or roots of similar character, will have estab-
lished a tendency to produce similar growths in the
future; hence its three buds will break into shoots
as strong, or possibly stronger, than the first shoots
formed. Consequently no fruit-buds are likely to be
formed on the second nor probably on the third-year
shoots. Growth and its forcible suppression by
pruning may thus continue for several years. Asa
matter of fact and of history, it continued so long at
one time that it merged into a common saying that
‘Men planted Pears and other fruits for their
children ; seldom living long enough to eat of them
themselves.”
All this is now altered by the use of
dwarfing stocks; the
reduction of pruning
to the lowest possible
limits, or its total abo-
lition; and by summer
pinching, or, as we
prefer to call it, the
moulding of growth
into form and fertility
in the making.
Fruit - buds. — It
may be well before pro-
ceeding further to point
out the broad distine-
tion between fruit and
wood- buds. No one
can prune with profit
who has not learned to distinguish the difference. In
general terms, and this applies to fruit-bearing trees
of all sorts, the fruit-buds are larger and also rounder
than the wood-buds. Asa rule, too, they will be
found towards the base of the stems of the wood of
the current or the past year. Figs. 14 and 15 are
pieces of two Apple-shoots, Fig. 14 clothed with
wood-buds only from base to summit, and the other
(Fig. 15) with fruit-buds. They are comparatively
seldom found like this, pure and unmixed, in a state
of nature. But they are shown so here to make
the distinction more obviously apparent. The fruit-
buds of Apples, Pears, Cherries, and other trees are
also often found in clusters at the bases of spurs, and
in such cases they are called fruit-spurs (Fig. 16).
These may be solitary, or in twos, threes, or much
larger aggregates. Lower, or near to these fruit-
spurs, wood-buds are generally found, and these are
useful as fetching up food-supplies to the fruit, and
maintaining a vigorous development of vitality in
the near vicinity of the Apples or other fruit.
It is important, however, to force, shorten, or pinch
back the shoots of growing wood during the summer,
Fig. 16. — Spur of
Fruit-buds.
326 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
to allow of more light and air reaching the swelling
fruit ; and in the autumn the growing shoots should
be cut back, as shown in Fig. 17.
é
eus back.
i
Fig. 18.—Keeping Fruit-branches at Home.
For the purpose of keeping Apple or other fruit-
trees in good form—or at home, as it is called—the
shortening back of the branches is often practised, as
shown in Fig 18, whether these branches are clothed
with fruit-buds, as there shown, or with wood-
buds.
Fig. 17.—Fruit-spur with
Wood-shoots, the latter
The thinning or reduction of size of fruit-spurs,
as shown in Fig. 19, belongs more to general culture
of fruit-trees than the moulding of young trees into
Fig. 19.—Thinning of Fruit-bearing Spurs.
form. But an illustration of it is given here to
complete what is needful to a full comprehension of —
the subject. It is obvious that trees may be injured _
by an excess of fruit-bearing spurs even more readily —
and seriously than by an excess of woody shoots; —
and hence the importance of reducing the numbers, —
ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD GARDENING. 327
or shortening the length, of fruit-bearig Apple-
spurs, as shown in Fig. 19. In some senses this is
the highest form of pruning, and it becomes the
more important now that fertile stocks—small trees
—and systems of culture that force fertility to the
uttermost, have become the rage in fruit-growing.
This thinning of fruit-spurs has become an abso-
lute necessity to preserve the health and prolong the
life of the trees, and obtain produce of the highest
quality, under the modern high-pressure system of
fruit-growing.
It now only remains for us to note and illustrate
the various steps by which Apple and other fruit-
trees may be pruned and trained into fertile Cordon,
Bush, Pyramid, Espalier, wall, or orchard trees.
This diversity and variety of form not only gives
great additional interest to the culture of hardy
fruits, but enables far more to be grown in less
space, and much of the highest quality to be pro-
duced in gardens of too limited area to have held
one old-fashioned Apple or Pear-tree. Several
Cordon Apples may even be backed up against an
area wall.
ROCK, ALPINE, FERN, AND WILD
GARDENING.
ALPINE PLANTS.
By Epwarp W. Bapcer, F.R.H.S.
List of Alpines (coneluded).—The plants marked
with an asterisk (*) are those most easily grown.
*Geranium argenteum (Silvery Cranesbill).—A
dwarf plant with. silvery-grey foliage and large rosy
flowers, produced in May and June. Soil, good
loam; most readily propagated from seeds. Native
of the South of Europe.
Geraniwm cinereum (Grey Cranesbill).—A plant
worth a position on the choicest portion of the
rockery. Growth dwarf; flowers flesh-coloured,
veined with purple. Readily raised from seeds.
Soil, sandy loam. Native of the Pyrenees, &e.
* Geranium sanguineum (Blood Geranium).—A
pretty native species, suitable for planting among
the larger rock plants. Flowers large and handsome.
Will grow in any ordinary garden soil. Propagated
by division and from seeds. There is a pink-flowered
variety, G. s. lancastriense, well worth growing. It
is not quite so vigorous as sanguineum.
* Globularia nana (Dwart Globularia).—A very
dwarf trailing evergreen plant, bearing tiny spherical
blue flowers. Should be grown in an open sunny
position, in sandy soil, with which some broken
sandstone has been intermingled. Increased by
division. Native of the Pyrenees.
* Helianthemum vulgare (Rock Rose).—A native
plant which, under cultivation, has yielded a great
number of beautiful varieties. All grow vigorously,
and should be planted where they will have plenty
of room. If allowed to hang over the front of a
bold piece of rock, they will soon grow into hand-
some plants. The flowers are variously coloured,
but all are beautiful. Easily propagated by cuttings
and division, and from seeds. Will grow in any
soil. Should be planted in sunny positions to be
seen to the greatest advantage.
* Helleborus niger (Christmas Rose).—For shaded
positions of the rougher parts of the rockery this is
a most desirable plant, both in its ordinary form,
and in the varieties which are to be found in many
nurserymen’s lists under conflicting names. The
most noticeable are H. 7. maximus, the flowers of
which are rose-tinted; H. ». major, bearing some-
what larger flowers than the type; H. ». minor,
which in all respects is smaller than the type, and
very distinct; H. n. scoticus, a kind for which the
world is indebted to Miss Hope, of Wardie, who
found it at Aberdeen; it bears large pure white
flowers, and is deserving of general cultivation; H.
n. Juvernis (St. Brigid’s Christmas Rose), an Irish
variety of the very highest character; and H. n.
angustifolius (Mr. Brockbank’s Christmas Rose): this
is a very desirable kind, and has very pure white
flowers. The Christmas Rose is thoroughly hardy
and of great value, because its lovely flowers come
at a time when flowers are most precious; they are
at the same time very beautiful and enduring. The
Christmas Rose will grow in any good ordinary soil;
but in a well-enriched one, with which some fibrous
peat has been intermingled, it will thrive best. The
most suitable situation is a somewhat shady one,
rather moist than dry. As the flowers are produced
from Christmas onwards they should be protected
with a bell-glass (eloche), and will by their enhanced
beauty repay the attention. As cut flowers, they are
as useful as Eucharis, and very lasting. asily
propagated by division and from seeds. Native of
Austria.
* Hepatica angulosa (Large Hepatica).—The flowers
are much larger than those of the more common
kinds, and of a lovely sky-blue colour. It should
be grown in good soil and somewhat sheltered to
be seen at its best. Propagated by division once
in three years. A native of Transylvania.
* Hepatica triloba (Common Hepatica). — There
are a number of varieties of this favourite spring
flower, all of which are worth growing: the single
and double blue, single white, single and double
pink or red, and some others not so common. Will
thrive in almost any soil, but best in a shady situa-
tion. This is one of the choicest of our old-fashioned
328
flowers, having been a favourite in English gardens
for at least three hundred years. The less often
they are disturbed, the finer and larger will they
grow. Propagated by division. Native of Southern
Kurope.
Houstonia cerulea (Bluets).—A very dwarf plant
bearing an abundance of pale blue flowers. It
should never be grown except in connection with the
dwarfest Alpines, so that no risk may be incurred of
its being overrun by more vigorous-growing plants.
A moist peaty soil suits it best, in a position fully
exposed in chinks among stones. Propagated by
careful division. A native of North America.
Hutchinsia alpina (Alpine Hutchinsia) —Another
very dwarf Alpine. In suitable positions it grows
into dense compact plants, and produces masses of
pure white flowers. Soil well drained, with sand
preponderating. Propagated by division. A native
of Southern Europe.
* Iberis corifolia (Coris-leaved Candytuft).—An
evergreen Candytuft, dwarf in growth, bearing a pro-
fusion of white flowers during May. Will grow in
any position and soil. Propagated by division and
cuttings. Native of Sicily.
* Iberis correefolia (Correa-leaved Candytuft).—
This is now generally regarded as a garden hybrid
of the common percnnial Candytuft. It isa very
distinct and most valuable plant, and bears fine
large white flowers in May and June. Deserves a
place on every rockery. ‘The foliage is evergreen,
and is cheerful-looking all the year round.
by clothing them from base to summit with Roses,
favours mere size of single blooms. But thus
clothed and marshalled in rows on either side of
main walks, or planted singly or in groups in any
part of the garden or pleasure-grounds, each pyra-
mid becomes a show in itself, compared with
which the most
brilhant display of
Roses in boxes he-
comes stiff and
even poor.
Pyramidal Roses
are perhaps most
effective in double
lines, twelve or
eighteen feet apart
in the rows, with a
space of eighteen,
twenty - four,
thirty, or thirty-
six feet between
the rows. This.
distance _ affords
room for a gravel
walk between, and,
if on turf, affords
ample space for a
delightful prome-
nade, from which
the Roses may be
seen and enjoyed
in all their richness
their summits.
Better far than
such sights as
these, which are
all too common,
would it be to cut
down the pillars to match the growing powers or
climbing capacities of the Roses.
Pyramidal Roses.—These are seldom so lofty
as those grown as pillars, though there is no reason
in their form for any reduction of height; on the
contrary, their greater breadth of base would give
greater real and apparent stability to an increased
height of stem. They differ chiefly from pillar
Roses in their greater breadth at bottom and more
regular tapering from base to summit. Those not
familiar with pyramidal Roscs or other trees can
hardly do better than choose for a model a sugar-
loaf enlarged in size to any desired extent.
Pyramidal Roses seem rather to have gone out of
fashion, chiefly on account .of the craze for perfec-
47
A RosE ARBOUR.
of floral grandeur.
As to the varie-
ties to plant for.
running up into
pillars or spread-
ing out into pyramids, the more hardy Noisettes
and proliferous Ayrshire and Evergreen Roses
are among the best. The often-named Gloire de
Dijon and Gloire de Bordeaux form admirable.
pyramids. Most of the free-growing Teas would
do almost equally well in warm localities and
sheltered places, while the Hybrid Chinas, Coupe
d’Hébé, Chenodole, Charles Lawson, Paul Verdier,
Vivid, and Madame Plantier are as well adapted for.
pillars as for pyramids. Cheshunt Hybrid grows so
rapidly and blooms so freely that it is equally well
adapted for pillar or pyramid, and every addition to
this class of hardy Hybrid Teas will be eagerly wel-
comed for these purposes. But the more vigorous
and floriferous Hybrid Perpetual Roses are also ad.
mirably fitted for moulding into pyramidal shapes;
354 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING. :
though they do not bloom all the year like the
Chinas or ‘Teas, the majority of them bloom in the
autumn as well as in the summer. The foliage
of many of them is also so fine as to add another
element to their beauty. Many varieties also pro-
duce very good blooms from pyramidal plants,
though, of course, this is not a form that would be
chosen by the grower for exhibition, quantity of
bloom being far more to the purpose on pyramidal
Roses than the mere quality of individual blooms.
One of the oldest Hybrid Perpetuals, Baronne Pré-
vost, still forms one of the finest pyramids.
Roses for Pyramids.—The following Hybrid
Perpetuals are among the best varieties for this
purpose.
Anna Alexief.—Bright salmon-rose, very large.
Antoine Mouton.—Next to Paul Neron, the largest
Rose grown; rose with reversing petals, silvery.
Auguste Newmann.—Deep scarlet, shaded violet.
Baron de Bonstetten.—Dark velvety-crimson.
Baronne Haussmann. — Light red, blooming in
clusters.
Camille Bernardin.—Light red with white border.
Charles Lefebvre, and the climbing variety, both
form capital pillars, and have been already described,
The flowers of the climber are, however, not equal to
the older and better variety.
Charles Turner.—Vivid red, full and large.
Comtesse de Serenye.—One of the best show Roses
of the soft rose-coloured class, also a good pillar
Rose.
Countess of Rosebery.—Brilliant carmine.
Dean of Windsor.—Rich vyermilion, shaded with
crimson.
Docteur Baillon.—Crimson-red, shaded with purple.
Dr. Hogg.—Pretty shell-shaped, deep violet.
Duchess of Bedford.—Brilliant scarlet.
Duke of Edinburgh.—Kqually good as a show and
a pular Rose; its rich vermilion showing brilliantly
in contrast with other Roses when placed in a line
with them as a pillar.
igeria.— Delicate silvery-pink.
Lilie Morel.—Almost pure white, slightly tinted.
Felhcien David.—Vivid ved, suffused with scarlet.
General Jacqueminot.—Still one of the best for
pyramid or post, and one of the brightest of all the
scarlet Roses. i
Gloire de Bourg Le Reine.—About the most bril-
hant of all scarlet Roses.
' Glory of Cheshunt.—Bright crimson.
John Bright.—Rich glowing crimson.
Jules Margottin.—Rich rosy-carmine.
Lowisa Wood.—Bright rose, very beautiful.
Madame Hippolyte Jamin.—White, with a slight
tint of rose.
Madame Lacharme.—Pure white, slightly suffused
with rose; these are very effective in bud.
Madame Marie Cirodde.—Pure rose, large and full.
Madile. Eugénie Verdier.—Soft flesh-coloured rose.
Magna Charta.—Bright pink, suffused with carmine.
Marchioness of Exeter.—Clear rose, shaded with
cherry.
Maréchal Vaillant.—Brilhant crimson.
Monsieur E. Y. Teas.—Rich purple-cerise.
Mrs. Veitch._Bright rose, large and good.
Paul Neron.—Deep rose, immense size.
Penelope Mayo.—Rich carmine-red.
Président Grévy.—Rich purple -red, blooming in
clusters.
President Willerinoz.
foliage. .
Red Dragon.—Dazzling crimson, very robust and
vigorous.
Reine des Blanches.—White, suffused with rose.
Souvenir de John Gould Veiteh.—Crimson, shaded
with violet-purple.
Thomas Methven.—Light carmine.
Thomas Mills.—Rosy-carmine, with white stripes.
Bright rose, large striking
Arches and Arbours.— Roses for arches, chains,
tent-beds, arbours, drooping pendants, &c., should all
be of similar character, and it would only confuse the
general reader to maintain any further distinction be-
tween them. They should be of climbing habit, have
small and semi-evergreen leaves, flower in clusters
or very profusely, and continue in bloom as long as
possible. Hence if only sufficiently hardy, and could
it be induced to bloom perpetually or twice a year,
which it occasionally does to some extent, there is no
Rose to equal the Banksian as a climbing chain or
drooping Rose. As seeing is said to be believing, we
give an illustration in proof of this statement.
Unfortunately, however, it is scarcely sufficiently
hardy for our climate, though, as it is seldom actually
killed in the open, it is worth growing in warm and
sheltered places for the simple grace, decorative and
clothing value, of its leaves and branchlets alone.
Crossed with the Stanwell or Perpetual-flowering
Scotch Rose, the Banksian might produce a race
of most valuable climbing Roses, combining the
rare and valuable qualities of extreme hardiness,
delicious fragrance, and small leaves and flowers,
and plenty of the latter in continuity. As the hardy
Scotch Perpetual Rose is one of the sweetest of all
the many deliciously fragrant Roses, and is also a
stronger grower than any other of its interesting
class, it might be used to clothe the bottom of arches,
or run up the pillars of arbours, to form supports
for drooping chains, &e. |
Where the Maréchal Niel Rose can live in the open
through the winter, it forms a magnificent Rose for
THE ROSE AND
arches, though its leaves and flowers alike set our
rules in favour of smaller blooms in climbers at
defiance. Yet, as an arch-clother, the Maréchal
Niel is simply and wholly magnificent. Its weak-
ness at the neck becomes a merit in such a position,
as the flowers all droop under the arches, where
they can be seen to best advantage. Celine Forestier
and Triomphe des Rennes, and Réve d’Or, also look
rich and beautiful on arches, in mild sheltered places.
Among the Tea Roses, Homer, Climbing Devoniensis,
Wm. A. Richardson, and the two Glories, Dijon and
Bordeaux, are the very best for arches, arbours, «c.,
though any of the Teas may be planted at the base
of the more rampant and truer climbers. Among
the more suitable for this purpose are Belle Lyon-
naise, Madame Trifle, Safrana, May Paul, Anna
Oliver, Innocente Pirola, Madame Denis, Madame B.
Durrschmidt (flesh, tinted salmon). The Hybrid Teas,
Cheshunt Hybrid, Prince Olga de Wurtemberg, and
Reine Marie Henriette, are also admirable on arches.
The so-called climbing varieties of the following
Hybrid Perpetuals, and most of those strong-growing
sorts already named and described as suitable for
pillars and pyramids, are also good for furnishing
arches, &c.—Climbing Bessie Johnson, Jules Mar-
gottin, Charles Lefebvre, Victor Verdier, Captain
Christy, Edouard Morren, Mdlle. EKugénie Verdier.
All the old-fashioned, strong- growing Chinas,
such as Gloire de Rosamene, Bourbon, and Noisette
Roses with their many hybrids, most of which will
be found in our list of garden Roses, are more or less
suitable for arches, arbours, &c. Such strong growers
as Chenodole, Fulgens, Blairii No. 2, Madame Plan-
tier, and Coupe d’Hébé will run over arches ten
feet high and twelve feet span. The climbing Aimée
Vibert will also run to almost any length.
But when all this rich and valuable furnishing
materialis exhausted, it will be needful still to hie
back to many of the oldest and hardiest of all our
climbing Roses for the furnishing of arches, draping
of dependent chains, and clothing of arbours and
garden seats with verdure and beauty.
Much may also be done in these directions by the
planting of strong-growing briar and other stocks,
carrying them over the arches or other structures to
be ultimately clothed with Roses, and budding any
suitable sort of Rose—such as the sweet and beauti-
fully clustered white Hybrid Perpetual, Boule de
Neige—on to the briar, just where they are wanted.
The curious possessor of only one arch might clothe
it by such simple means with almost any number of
separate and distinct Roses.
Boursault Roses form admirable stocks, and the
following are still worth growing for their rampant
growth, beauty of foliage alike in summer and
autumn, and also for the brightness of their flowers
ITS CULTURE.
co
Or
Cr
whilst they last, which is not long: Amadis, crimson ;
and Gracilis, rosy-pink.
Almost all the Ayrshire Roses are worth growing
for these purposes: the three whites, Thoresbyana,
Rampante, and Countess of Lieven; the two whites
with pink or red eyes, Dundee Rambler and Splen-
dens, the last the sweetest of the family; and the
well-known flesh-coloured variety Ruga.
Among semi-evergreen climbing Roses the follow-
ing are the best :—
Banksieflora.—W hite, with pale yellow centre.
Félicité Perpetuelle.—-Small, creamy-white.
Leopoldine, or Adelaide W@ Orléans.-—White, shaded
with rose.
Myrianthes renoneule.—-Bluish, edged with rose, the
centre sometimes white.
Donna Maria.—Pure white, flowering in large
houses.
Flora.—Bright rose-coloured.
Princess Lowise.—Rich creamy-white.
Spectabile.—Rich rosy-pink.
Princess Marie.—Small double red.
These Roses bloom in large clusters, and conse-
quently have a rich effect depending from arches,
chains, or arbours. From the fact of some of the
clusters containing so many as fifteen to fifty blos-
soms, and the staying properties of some of the double
varieties, the Evergreen Ktoses continue a long time
in bloom. Two or more of them, Rampante and
Spectabile, have also a dash of Perpetual blood in
them, and not seldom show a fair sprinkling of bloom
in the autumnal months.
There are several other vigorous and hardy climb-
ing Roses, mostly Prairie, or Multiflora Roses, or
hybrids from them,
Prominent among these is La Grifferaie, a pink-
coloured Rose of such vigour of growth that it has
been much used as a stock.
Laure Davoust.—Pink, fading into white, very
large trusses, rather tender.
Russelliana.—Dark crimson.
Baltimore Belle.—F¥rench white, double.
Madume d Arblay.—Pure white, in large clusters.
Gem of the Prairies.—Crimson, blotched with white,
very fragrant.
The Garland.— Unique in colour, nankeen and pink
fading into white.
Queen of the Prairies.—Rosy-purple, large and
double.
Madame Vivian Morel.—Bright carmine, with
rosy-white under petals.
Setina.—A fine American Rose, vigorous, with
delicate, silvery-pink flowers.
Tricolour.—Pink, mottled white.
To these may be added the Fringed Musk Rose,
and Rivers’ Musk, varieties of rapid growth, that
306
would be suitable for clothing the bases of arches,
arbours, &c.
The Single White Himalayan Briar Rose, Bru-
noniana, with yellow stamens; the Camellia Rose
of Japan, single white, with large yellow stamens;
Paul’s Single White and Single Red; and the
Waltham Climbers, 1, 2, and 3, all strong-growing
red seedlings from Gloire de Dijon; and the Com-
mon, Scarlet, Double, White, and Celestial Sweet:
briar, should also be used for drapery as well as for
fragrance. True, their flowers do not iast long, but
while on arch or bower none are more brilliant or
beautiful, and the fragrance of Sweet-briar is indeed a
joy for ever.
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.
By Wititiam Hues Gower.
Pultenzea.-—A showy family of Australian Pea-
flowered shrubs, which may be treated in the same
manner as previously recommended for Charozema.
P. ericoides.— Branches slightly tomentose ; leaves
linear; flowers in dense terminal heads, red and
yellow. Spring and early summer.
P. rosea.—A dwarf, compact, and handsome plant,
with closely-set tomentose leaves, and dense heads of
soft rosy-purple flowers. Spring and early summer.
P. villosa, a stronger-growing plant than either of
the preceding ; branches hairy ; leaves linear-oblong ;
flowers yellow. Spring months.
Rhododendron.—A family of plants now so
familiar to every one that a lengthy description
is quite unnecessary. They belong to the order
Hricacee, although at first sight there seems a wide
difference.
The numerous fine species from Northern India,
which were for the most part discovered and intro-
duced to cultivation by Sir Joseph Hooker, Director
of the Royal Gardens, Kew, took all the plant-
growing public by surprise, and they were eagerly
sought after and highly prized. The majority of
these species are handsome strong-growing plants,
whilst some of them are dwarf, free-growing, and
profuse bloomers; these have been the originators of
a numerous class of small-growing hybrids, which
are rapidly and deservedly becoming favourites with
the horticultural world, for independent of their
floriferous character and the great beauty of their
flowers, many of them are deliciously fragrant. A
few of the best and most desirable are here sub-
joined.
Rhododendrons should be potted in good sandy
peat, and are all very easily cultivated.
R. argenteum.—Leaves large, flowers white, beauti-
fully spotted with black. North India.
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
R. Aucklandii.imFlowers some five inches in dia-
meter, white, suffused with rosy-pink. North India.
k. Boothii.—A fine variety; flowers soft buff-
colour. North India.
. ciliatum.—A dwart-growing species, which has
been the parent of many fine hybrid forms now so
much admired ; leaves small, obovate, bright green
;
5
on the upper side, glaucous beneath, hairy on the
edges ; flowers white or pale rose. North India.
hk. Countess of Haddington.—A robust grower ;
flowers large and extremely handsome, bluish-white ;
hybrid.
R. Dathousie.—A noble plant, with gigantic —
flowers, produced in dense heads, white, suffused —
with rosy-pink, very fragrant. North India, |
R. Denisoni.— Flowers white, stained and spotted —
with pale yellow; hybrid. _
R. Duchess of Edinburgh. — Flowers brillant
scarlet, shading to crimson ; hybrid.
R. Duchess of Teck—Tube creamy, ground pale
yellow, shaded with orange-scarlet ; hybrid.
R. Edgworthii.—Leaves bright green above and
densely woolly beneath; flowers large, white, tinged
with pink, very fragrant. North India,
R. fragrantissima.—Flowers white, shaded with —
bluish, deliciously sweet; hybrid.
R. Gibsenii.— Compact grower; leaves small;
flowers white, tinged with bluish. North India.
R. jasminifiorum.—Umbels large; flowers tubular,
with a spreading limb, pure white with pink eye,
very fragrant. Mountains of Malacca.
R. javanicum.—Rich bright orange flowers. Moun-
tains of Java.
R. Nuttallii.Leaves large; flowers pure white.
North India.
Rk. Prince of Waies.—A fine, compact-habited plant; |
flowers with long tubes, rich orange ; hybrid.
R. Princess Alexandra.—aA superb variety ; flowers
pure white, with long tubes; hybrid. :
R. Prince Leopold.—Fawn-colour, tinged with rose; _
fine variety ; hybrid. |
R. Princess Alice.—Flowers bell-shaped, very fra- |
grant.
Rk. Princess Helena.—Tubes long;
pink, with darker shading ; hybrid.
R. Princess Mary.—Flowers white, tinted with
rosy-pink ; hybrid.
R. Princess Royal.— Flowers funnel-shaped, rich
rose-colour. 7
R. tubiflorum.—Flowers tubular, much contracted —
in the mouth, dark reddish-purple, tinged with |
bronze. Mountains of Java. “a
R. retusum.—Very dwarf; flowers reddish-orange. |
R. Sesterianum.—F lowers large, pure white, spotted |
with yellow on the upper petals, and very fragrant; |
hybrid.
flowers soit |
a
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.
R. Taylori.cHeads of bloom very large ; flowers
fubular, tube white, the spreading limb brilliant
pink; hybrid.
R. Veitchianum.—F lowers large, with crisp mar-
gin, pure white,
with pale yellow
markings at the
base. Mountains
of Moulmein.
R. Veitehianwn
levigatum. — The
counterpart of the
preceding, but in-
stead of the beau-
tiful crisp edges,
they are plain in
this plant. Moun-
tains of Moulmein.
Richardia. —
These plants are
very showy; better
known perhaps by
the old name of
Calla. Amongst
amateurs they will
be more familar
as the Arwm Lily,
Nile Lily, Trumpet
Lily, &c., the last
name being very
characteristic, al-
though they do
not belong to the
Lily family.
The genus bears
the name of a
celebrated French
botanist, and be-
longs to the order
Aracee. They soon
make large mas-
Sive specimens if
all the growths
are left on them;
but when confined
to single stems,
they produce the
finest spathes, and in this condition are best adapted
for window plants, or indeed any kind of in-door
decoration. After flowering, Richardias lose their
leaves, and lie dormant for some time. In the
autumn they commence to show signs of returning
life, when they should be re-potted in good rich loam
and well-decayed manure, and be liberally supplied
with water. Treated in this manner, they will grow
yD
Ys
|
Up
RHODODENDRON JASMINIFLORUM.
ce
Or
~~!
vigorously, and produce their large trumpet-shaped
spathes in the spring and early summer months.
R. ethiopica.—A bold-growing herbaceous plant,
producing from its fleshy corm, large sagittate
cordate leaves,
which, together
with the long
clasping _ petioles
on which they are
borne, are of a
uniform bright
green. The plant
is indebted for its
beauty to the large
fleshy, pure white,
trumpet - shaped
spathe which sur-
rounds the flowers,
and not, as is the
usual case, to the
flower itself. It is
a native of swampy
places from Egypt
to the Cape of
Good Hope. -
Kk. albo-maculata.
—Leaves sagittate,
bright green, pro-
fusely spotted with
ivory - white; the
spathe pure white.
It flowers during
the spring and
early summer
months. Cape of
Good Hope.
Solanum. — A
numerous genus,
which gives its
name to the order ;
it contains plants
very diversified in
form and _ char-
acter, which are
widely distributed
over both hemi-
spheres. In some
instances they attain the dimensions of small trees,
others are dense shrubs; some are herbaceous, and
others simply annual plants. Their properties are
also very variable: some are very poisonous, and
others, such as “the Potato” (S. tuberosum), are
highly nutritious.
Some of the annual species of Solanwm have bold
leaves variously ornamented with large spines on the
358 CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
upper side, and are very effective during the summer
months in the sub-tropical garden. ‘8. anthro-
pophagorwm is a robust plant, producing large dull
red fruits, which are not, however, sufficiently
numerous to render it very ornamental; these fruits
were formerly used in the cannibal festivities of the
Fiji Islanders. 5S. ciliatum, again, 18 a very orna-
mental kind; the fruits are large and bright orange-
red, but they do
not last very long
in beauty. S.
Melongena, and its
varieties, are re-
markable for their
large oval fruits
of various colours,
the plants being
known popularly
as ‘‘eog-plants”’ ;
these fruits are
much used in
French cookery,
and are known by
the name of Brin-
gals. All of these,
however, are far
surpassed in
beauty and use-
fulness by the
improved hybrid
forms of S. Cap-
sicastrum, which
are literally laden
with their large,
round or ovate,
bright scarlet
berries, that last
many months in
full beauty, and
may be used for
many decorative
purposes.
S. Capsicastrum is easily obtained from sced, and if
kept growing through the season, will form handsome
plants the same season ; they vary much in the size
and shape of their berries, but when a fine variety is
obtained it should be propagated by cuttings in
order to perpetuate it; seeds of the finest berries
should be sown, and each season the best ones can
be selected for a maintenance of the fittest. Where
small plants are required, they should be raised from
cuttings or seeds every season, as the young plants
produce the largest fruits, and after their beauty
is past they may be thrown away; but if large
specimens are wished for, then cut the plants back
hard, and place in a close frame until they begin to
RICHARDIA EIHIOPICA,
push forth their young growths, then re-pot into
larger pots, and repeat the potting process as the
plants require it.
These varieties are very easily grown. On the ap-
proach of autumn, some few plants should be given
a little heat, which will speedily cause the green
berries to ripen and turn to the red of a soldier’s
coat, and thus a longer succession is obtained.
The soil ‘ they
thrive well in is
equal parts of
rich loam, leaf-
mould, and well
decomposed ma-
nure; and when
the pots are toler-
ably well filled
with roots, weak
soot - water , may
be given about
once a week with
much advantage.
Sollya. — A
small genus of
the order Pitto-
sporace@, con-
sisting of half-
climbing shrubs,
indeed, they make
very pretty ob-
jects upon small
trellises.
Sollyas are
plants with simple
leaves and small
heads of blue
flowers; the co-
lour not being
very common,
they are usually
very attractive when well grown. For soil use equal
parts of peat and loam, and about a fourth part
sand. They are all from Australia, and all have
blue flowers.
The chief varieties are:—S. angustifolia, S. Drum-
mondii, S. heterophylla, and S. linearis.
Statice.—A large family of showy plants popu-
larly known as ‘“‘ Sea-Lavender,” and contaiing a
quantity of hardy species and varieties, which may
be reckoned amongst our most attractive border
plants, several being indigenous to Britain.
The green-house kinds are also very ornamental,
and maintain a rich display throughout the greater
of dwarf growth ; ©
a ee a oa ase “
GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 359
part of the season, bearing large branched panicles
of flowers, which, however, individually are not
showy, but as the calyx and corolla are both
coloured the mass is very conspicuous.
Statices belong to the order Plumbaginacea, and
are characterised by their peculiar dry, papery,
funnel-shaped calyx, which is not divided into
lobes, but is entire, and usually blue or yellow, and
the corolla white. The soil should consist of peat
and light sandy loam; the pots must be well
drained, as they enjoy a liberal supply of water
when growing. :
S. brassicefolia is a very beautiful species, with
large, deepiy-lobed, dark grcen leaves, which are
shghtly hairy; panicles much branched; calyx deep
blue; corolla white. Summer months. The Canary
Isles.
S. Halfordii.—A bold-growing plant with entire,
somewhat cordate leaves, dark green; flowers bright -
blue and white, and borne on large much-branched
panicles. Summer months. Of garden origin.
S. profusa, also known by the name S. Rattrayana,
is a dwarf and compact-growing plant of garden
origin; leaves obovate, bluntly lobed, and dark
green; panicles much branched and dense; calyx
deep purple ; corolla white. It is almost a perpetual
bloomer.
Stenocarpus.—A small genus of Proteacea,
natives of the tropical parts of Australia and New
Caledonia. They require the same treatment as
Banksia and Dryandra.
S. Cunninghamii, sometimes called Agnostis sinuata,
becomes a lofty tree, but grows and blooms freely in
a young state in cultivation. The leaves are entire,
deeply sinuate, from nine to twelve inches long,
thick and leathery in texture, and dark green;
flowers in axillary racemes, arranged in the form of
a corona, rich orange-yellow, very showy and hand-
some. Queensland.
Tacsonia.—A very beautiful family of climbing
plants, so closely resembling Passifloras that there
seems very little to distinguish them saving the
length of the tube in the flowers, and even this is
not a character to be depended upon; they are
gorgeously beautiful when in bloom, and some of
the kinds should find a home in every collection of
plants. For treatment see Passiflora.
L. eriantha.—This, like all the species, has threc-
lobed leaves; the tube of the flower is very long,
the whole being rich rosy-pink in colour. Summer
months.
T. exoniensis.—lowers large, freely produced,
colour rich crimson.
TL. ignea.—¥ lowers bright fiery-red.
T. manicata.—Flowers a rich
Summer and autumn.
crimson-scarict.
Peru.
T. mollissima.—Not a frevc-flowering plant in a
young state, but very profuse with age; flowers
large, deep rose. Quito.
71. sanguinea.—F lowers lave,
Summer months.
LT. Van Volxemi.—A very profuse bloomer during
the autumn months; tubes long, flowers large,
rich crimson-lake.
deep blood-red.
New Grenada.
Tecoma,.—A family of climbing plants belonging
to the order Bignoniacee, and nearly related to the
genus Lignonia. ‘They require about the same treat-
ment, for which see Vol. I., page 278.
LT. capensis is a very fine bloomer, producing in
abundance its panicles of large rich orange-yellow
flowers; the leaves are pinnate, with small ovate
segments, serrated at the edges, deep green. Sum-
mer and autumn months. Cape of Good Hope.
T. fulva.—An exceedingly beautiful species,
bearing a profusion of large rich-coloured flowers,
which are red and yellow during the summer and
autumn months. Bolivia.
T. jasminoides 18 a rapid-growing kind, producing
its charming soft pink and white flowers during the
late summer months. Australia.
Testudinaria.—A genus of climbing plants
nearly related to Dioscorea, and grown principally
in the gardens of the curious on account of its
weird and old-world appearance. There are a few
species only, and all are very similar in general
appearance. Pot in good rich loam.
T. elephantipes.—This curious plant has a thick
woody root-stock, peculiarly ribbed and _ plated,
which has given rise to the names of Tortoise-plant
and Elephant’s Foot; the root-stock attains to very
large dimensions, often measuring three to four
feet in diameter, and nearly or as much in height ;
it produces from the top several herbaceous twining
stems, which are furnished with alternate, cordate,
bright green leaves; the flowers are yellow, but very
small and insignificant. ‘There is another species,
T. sylvatica, which resembles it very closely; the
root-stock, however, is usually flatter than 7.
clephantipes. Both are natives of the Cape of Good
Hope.
Tetratheca.—These plants belong to the small
order Zremandracea, and are frequently, though
erroneously, called Tremandras. All are natives of
Australia. .
Tetrathecas are handsome, small-growing, Heath-
like shrubs, with soft linear leaves and axillary
flowers, which only open on fine days; they always
360
close again at night, and if open in the day, when
rain is about to fall the Tetrathecas begin to shut up
their blooms.
They are very showy when in flower, and are well
suited for exhibition pur-
poses; the treatment re-
quired to obtain good
specimens is similar to
that. recommended for
Iiricas, but they will not
bear the exposure to the
full sun like those plants.
For soil use about two
parts of peat, one of
light loam, and one of
sand. Tetrathecas dis-
hke fire-heat, but damp
and mildew must be kept
from them during winter
by a free circulation of
air.
T. ericoides.—A free
erower and a_ profuse
bloomer ; the leaves ar-
ranged in whorls, linear
and dark green; the
flowers rosy-lilac. May
and June.
T. hirsuta. — Leaves
small, oblong, clothed
with long hairs on the
upper side, downy be-
neath ; it is an abundant
bloomer ; flowers purple.
Spring months.
T. verticillata.—A very
free grower, and almost
a perpetual bloomer ; it
makes very slender
branches, and the narrow
leaves are disposed in
whorls; these are shghtly
hairy and bright green ;
flowers large, on long
foot-stalks, rich violet-
blue in colour. After
flowering, the stems
should all be cut back to
within one or two joints of the old wood. This
species blooms in the spring and summer months.
(The correct name of this is Platytheca galioides.)
Thibaudia.—The plants of this genus are re-
markable for the beauty of their flowers ; they belong
to the Vaccinie—an order we have noticed under the
genus Ceratostema—and require the same treatment.
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
Thibaudias are deserving of the notice of all plant-
growers, though careful attention is requisite to pro- —
duce good specimens and to keep them in health.
TESTUDINARIA ELEPHANTIPES.
T. acuminata (Cavendishia acuminata).—A beautiful
evergreen shrub, with
drooping branches, and ©
alternate ovate lanceo-
late leaves, which taper
sharply to a point; when
young these are purplish-
red, but change to dark
green with age; flowers —
tubular, produced in
large clusters towards
the points of the shoots;
tubes swollen at the base,
scarlet, tipped with
greenish-yellow. Natu-
rally this plant is an al-
most perpetual bloomer ;
in cultivation, however,
it flowers during the
winter months. Ecuador,
at 10,000 feet elevation.
T. cordifolia (Caven-
dishia cordifolia).—
Leaves broadly -oblong,
thick and leathery in
texture, smooth, and deep
green ; flowers in dense
terminal racemes, tubes
tapering upwards, about
an inch long, and bright
rosy - red, tipped with
white. Winter months.
New Grenada.
T. coronaria ( Themisto-
clesia coronilla).—An ele-
gant shrub, with small
Myrtle-like leaves;
flowers tubular, on long
drooping footstalks;
tubes swollen at the base
and ribbed, deep red.
January and February.
New Grenada.
T. Jessice.— A robust
plant with large broadly-
ovate leaves, which taper to a long point, eight to
ten inches long, bright green above, paler below:
racemes almost sessile, dense; flowers large and
tubular, swollen at the base, both calyx and corolla
being soft rosy-red. Autumn months. Caraccas.
(Correct name Psammisia Jessice.)
T. sarcantha (Psammisia sarcantha).—Leaves broad,
somewhat ovate, leathery in texture, dark green:
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS.
flowers tubular, much swollen at the base, deep red,
tipped with yellowish-green. The early spring
months. New Grenada.
Vaccinium.—This genus is the type of the
_ order to which so many beautiful plants have been
referred in previous pages, and to it belong our
native species, which are popularly known as Cran-
berry, Bilberry, Blueberry, and Cowberry, the
fruits of which are great favourites with grouse and
such-like birds.
The exotic kinds require the same treatment as
recommended for Ceratostema.
V. Imrayi —This can scarcely be called a showy
species ; it is, however, very peculiar and interesting.
A bold-growing plant with ovate-acuminate leaves,
leathery in texture and shining deep green; racemes
crowded into dense heads at the points of the shoots ;
flowers large, campanulate, yellowish-green. It re-
quires to be kept rather warmer than its allies.
Summer months. Island of Dominica, at consider-
able elevations.
V.reflexum.—A charming plant, with long, slender,
pendent branches; leaves closely set, small, some-
what oblong, leathery in texture, deep shining green
above, vinous-red beneath ; flowers in dense clusters
at the ends of the shoots, coral-red. Winter months.
olivia.
V. Roltissonii.rIn this we have another tropical
species, but it does not require great heat; it is an
erect-habited plant, having angular branches and
obovate leaves, leathery in texture, and deep shining
green; racemes terminal; flowers bright scarlet.
May and June. Mountains of Java.
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS.
By RicHarp DEAN.
The Petunia.—The term Petunia is derived
from petun, the Brazilian name for Tobacco, to
which the Petunia is allied. The fine varieties now
in cultivation have in all probability sprung from
the white-flowered P. nyctaginiflora, the Marvel of
Peru flowered Petunia, introduced from South
America in 1823, and P. violacea, the Violet-coloured
Petunia, introduced from Buenos Ayres in 1831; so,
as compared with many other plants, the Petunia is
of comparatively recent introduction. These were
cultivated, and being found by our English florists
to seed freely, seedlings were raised; and the pro-
geny showing a tendency to vary, crosses were made
with the best varieties, the result being the pro-
duction of new and improved forms. These were
taken ir, hand and grown for exhibition purposes, a
361
dwarfer and more compact habit of growth being
associated with larger, stouter, and better-formed
flowers ; eventually the most promising were named,
and in this way the Petunia came to be regarded as
a highly desirable and popular plant. In the first
efforts in crossing the Petunia, the early productions
were much alike in character. It is a fact that in
the first generation all hybrids are much alike, but
in the second they vary in the most remarkable
degree. Thus, in the case of the Petunia, some of
the first seedlings reverted to the white species,
others to the violet type; some showed tints of
colour between the two. ‘Then, by fertilising these,
a third generation was obtained much more parti-
coloured, and eventually these gave extremely
varied forms. In all crosses of this character the
fancy of the operator will actuate him to select
what forms he pleases as his models, whether sym-
metrical in form and harmonious in colour on the
one hand, or grotesque in outline and ill-defined and
confused in colour on the other; but the variations
of any flower that are to find a place in the garden
should at least partake of the characteristics gener-
ally considered essential by florists—form, colour,
substance, distinctness, &c.—and not be hideous and
unlovely formations merely, that have neither
attractiveness nor utility to recommend them. To
these essential points must be superadded a short,
stiff, and yet vigorous habit; a propensity to
flower freely ; and, as far as it can be obtained, a
hardihood that can sustain to some extent, when
bedded out of doors, the effects of cold and inclement
weather, which is sometimes characteristic of an
English summer.
For a time the flowers of the Petunia were single.
Then, as one of the results of selection, added petals
began to show themselves in the centres of some of
the flowers. These were carefully fertilised with
the pollen from blossoms of a like character, and
eventually a race with fully double flowers was
obtained. They, like the single forms, vary con-
siderably in character. Some are compact and small
in size, others loose and very large. Of late years
' there has been obtained from the Continent a strain.
of both single and double Petunias of strong spread-
ing growth, and very large, loose, but singularly rich
and fantastically marked flowers. The favourite
English section is represented by a strain of compact
erowth, and small-sized, well-formed, finely-striped,
and self-coloured blossoms, both double and single.
In regard to the cultivation of the Petunia, it
may be observed that such fine varieties can now be
obtained from seeds, that naming of distinct kinds
is seldom resorted to. Raisers of fine varieties,
desirous of preserving a new and distinct variety
which pleases them, do so by means of cuttings, but
362
nurserymen’s cataloguesin the present day seldom
contain lists of varieties of named Petunias. In
order to obtain cuttings, the best method is to keep
a few plants through the winter in an ordinary
green-house ; and if these are put into a gentle heat
in the month of February, they will break forth
into a number of young growths; and when these
are from one and a half to two inches in length,
they make excellent cuttings. If inserted in pans
of silver sand or light sandy soil, kept thoroughly
moist and placed in a brisk heat, the cuttings will
be rooted ina few days, and they should then be
potted singly into small pots, in a light compost made
up of silver sand, loam, and leaf-mould, be placed in
CASSELL’S POPULAR GARDENING.
make excellent plants for green-house and con-
servatory decoration, lasting in bloom for a long
time. The dwarfer and more compact - growing
double varieties are well suited for this purpose.
In order to have a good supply of plants, growers
of Petunias for exhibition take some cuttings in-
August or early in September, and about a dozen ©
of these are inserted in six-inch pots in good
light soil, then watered very gently, and kept close
in a frame and shaded for a week or so, and finally
removed to a warm green-house to be kept for
stock. In the early spring they put forth growths
more quickly than do older plants, and they can be
struck as indicated above. If extra strong specimen
PrTUNIAS, SINGLE AND DOUBLE.
heat again to get started into growth, and then
removed to a cooler temperature to get hardened off
a little, and finally placed in the green-house. In
order to make nice bushy plants of these, the mam
shoot should be pinched out, and as soon as fresh
shoots are formed, the plants should be shifted into
larger-sized pots. Never stop and re-pot at the same
time, is a rule of universal application in cases of
this kind. Those who have no heat, but desire to
strike a few cuttings, must take them later in the
season, when the wood is stouter and harder; and if
these are inserted in pots of fine soil, and placed on
a warm shelf in a green-house, they will strike root.
If the pots of cuttings can be placed under a bell-
glass (which will need to be shaded from the sun)
they will strike all the more readily, and when
rooted they should be potted off and grown on as
recommended above.
We often observe in schedules of prizes at hor-
ticultural exhibitions, classes for specimen Petunias
grown in pots. In this form they are very hand-
some and attractive if well grown. And they also
plants are wanted, the best of the autumn-struck
cuttings are selected, potted, and grown on during
the winter, well looked after, and on no account
allowed to become pot-bound. Thus a good start
is secured, and the plants go ahead with great
rapidity in early spring. To have fine exhibition
plants, take at the end of March spring cuttings
that have been stopped twice; the last time of
stopping at about the fourth or fifth jomt. As soon
as they begin to break, they should be shifted into
five-inch pots, using a compost made up oi one-
half good loam, one-quarter leaf-mould, and one-
quarter peat and sand. After this shift, and as soon
as they begin to grow, they will require a lower
temperature. The grower must keep stopping
according to the best of his judgment, tyimg out the
main branches so as to secure a good bottom to the
specimens and a symmetrical shape. About the
first or second week in June the plants should be
stopped for the last time, pinching back every shoot,
and doing this so as to preserve the symmetrical
character of the specimen. The plants so treated
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS.
will require but little tymg. By the middle of July
they should have their last shift, placing them in
nine-inch pots or a size larger, using a compost of
one-half fibry loam, one-quarter leaf-mould, and
one-quarter rotten cow-dung and sand, equal parts of
each. As the plants grow, great attention must be
paid to pegging down and training, also to watering,
for if at this period the specimens be allowed to
become dry at the roots, it proves very injurious to
them. As the buds begin to swell, the plants will
require stimulating with liquid manure, which
should be given them rather weak every time they
are watered, until the flowers begin to expand, aiter
which it should be discontinued. They will require
shading from the hot sun. Such plants will be
im fine condition at the end of August or beginning
of September.
As far as the general garden culture of the Petunia
is concerned, it is simply necessary to sow the seed
early in March, in heat, pricking the little plants
into boxes of fine soil, if a number of plants are
required. If only a moderate quantity are wanted,
they can be pricked off into pots or pans; when
these are hardened off in a frame after they have
commenced to grow, they ean be planted out of
doors in beds, a foot or so distance between the
plants, and if required they should be watered in
dry weather. These plants will begin to flower in
July, and continue until the frosts and rains of
autumn destroy their beauty. A few pods of seed
should be gathered from the best varieties for sowing
in early spring.
Jt may be added that in the West of England,
and especially in Wiitshire and Somersetshire,
exhibition Petunias are trained to circular wire
frames, perfectly flat, and which can be fixed in the
soil of the pot in which the plant is growing by
means of a peg; these frames when so fixed inciine
backwards somewhat, and are therefore on a slope.
The plants are trained over the frame, and when
they are fully in bloom, they are densely covered
with their bright blossoms, and make a very effective
display.
A few of the best named Petunias are as follows:
SINGLE VARIETIES
Avalanche, pure white. Mrs. A. Mayes, white and
Delicata, white and purple. purple.
_ Dr. Daniel, rich crimson. Mrs. H. Cannell, white and
Elegance, white, barred crimson.
crimson. Mrs. 8. Hibberd, white and
Juno, rosy-purple. |
Lady Jane, rose. |
Little Pet, soft pink.
maroon.
Purpurea, purple.
Spitiire, bright purple.
DovusLE VARIETIES.
Adonis, blotched |
|
white, Are-en-Ciel, mauve and
white.
urple,
Antigone, rosy lilac. Berenger, rose and lilac.
Cratere, bluish-purple.
De Candolle, deep crimson.
363
Madame Hergist, purpie,
edged white.
Gigantea, bright lilae- Marie Careme, light rose.
purple. Neptune, white and lilac.
Hermione, white. Ophelia, white and purple.
Hibernia, rosy-purple and Perfection, deep rose.
green. Rubens, rosy-mauve and
La Chine, purplish-crimson. white.
M.