IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ I.I 1.25 Ui§2A |25 itt lii |22 1^ 12.0 lit 1.4 i 1.6 V v: 7 >^ ib CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. Clfr.M/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 1980 Technical Notes / Notes techniques The institute has attempted to obtain the best originai copy available for filming. Physical features of this copy which may alter any of the images in the reproduction are checked below. L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a At* possible de se procurer. Certains dAfauts susceptlbles de nuire A la quality de la reproduction sont not^s cl-dessous. D Coloured covers/ Couvertures de couleur D Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur D Coloured maps/ Cartes giographiques en couleur 0 Coloured plates/ Planches en couleur 0 Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages d6color6es. tachetdes ou piqu6es D Show through/ Transparence D Tight binding (may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin)/ Reliure serrd (peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long do la marge intdrieure) n Pages damaged/ Pages endommagies 0 Additional comments/ Commentaires supplAmentaires Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been ref ilmed to ensure the best possible image. Bibliographic Notes / Notes bibliographiques D D Only edition available/ Seule Mition disponible Bound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents D D Pagination incorrect/ Erreurs de pagination Pages missing/ Des pages manquent D Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque D Maps missing/ Des cartas g6ographiques manquent D Plates missing/ Des planches manquent D Additional comments/ Commentaires supplAmentaires B ns la The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol — ► (meaning CONTINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. The original copy was borrowed from, and filmed with, the kind consent of the following institution: Library of the Public Archives of Canada Maps or plates too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les images suivantes ont 4t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition at de la nettet6 de I'exemplaire film«, et en conformit6 avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la der- niAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ► signifie "A SUIVRE". le symboie V signifie "FIN". L'exemplaire film* fut reproduit grAce d la g6n«rosit6 de I'Atablissement prAteur suivant : La bibliothAque des Archives publiques du Canada Les cartes ou les planches trop grandes pour Atre reproduites en un seul clichA sont filmAes A partir de I'angle supArieure gauche, de gauche A droite et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Le diagramme suivant illustre la mAthode : 1 2 3 t 2 3 4 5 6 w I n ADVEUTiyEMENT. THE FRUIT GROWERS' ASSOCIATION OF ONTARIO. If I \ Rev. R. Burnet, Hamilton, - D. W. Beadle, St. Catharines, - President. - Secretary. The Annual Report, illustrated with accurately executed en- gravings, and with one or more finely coloured fruit-plates, con- tains a large amount of very valuable information, and is sent, post-paid, to every member. A number of fruit trees are distributed every year to each member for trial. The entire expense of this distribution is borne by the Association, the members being required only to make report to the Association, through the Secretary, of the results of such trial. The Swayzie Pomme Grise Apple tree will be distributed in the Spring of 1875; the Downing Gooseberry in that of 1874; and the Tetofsky Apple in the Spring of 1876. Other selections will be made for distribution from time to time, as the Directors ascertain what varieties it is desirable to test. Prizes are given for Essays, Canadian Seedling Fruits, &c., of which a full announcement will be found in the Annual Report. Any person can become a member by sending the annual fee of one dollar to the Secretary, Any member who will take the trouble to send the names and fees of five new members, will re- ceive a double number of trees at the next distribution. 1 ^?ll»«4 % CANADIAN Fruit, Flower AND Kitchen Gardenei^^ 1872. •>.. , ♦ ^ 0^ 0 r vP ^9 \ \ "I < J u ■■ ' ,' I j ( '>. l.i.^^.1f,st',•^ M. :.^' v^'^H^ .. v».^' !.*.:;•• S.-".. ■fe'^: iV .Jr<--' .fw: *«:>i ;4 'T m r"^; 'J^" w tir- ,.«#■ CANADIAN FRUIT, FLOWER, JUiD KITCHEN GARDENER. BT D. W. BEADLE, Esq., Sfcrrtary of the Fruit Growers' Association of Ontario, Editor ,f ifil, horticultural Department of t/ie Canada Farmer, <&*<-., ' .n this cu.4atf:. - .« ' .-,9 TORONTO; PUBLISHED BY JAMES CAMPBELL & SON. 1872. B'ltered according to the Act of tlio Parliament of Canada, in tho year One Tliouw»)4 Eight Ilun ;re(l and Seventy-two, by James CAiarnELL k Son, in the OfDi.3 of tho Minister of Agriculture. •. .**. **• :•: •*.'• ..• •*•• C.I.OBR PRINTING COMPANT, K1K0 8T., SAST, TOROfTTO. mrt (Sir 10-crmi«six)fM,) ©f tfif [rait |roiiTr^' Iflsocuition of Lb\rk, «B tfttir moat IwfaoUtr fjumblr JStrtant, CONTENTS. SUBJECTS. FRUIT GARDEN. The Propagation of Fruit Trees— Grafting ^^^^ How to Cleft Graft ,[][]] ^ How to Whip Graft .......!...!!.' ^ How to make Grafting Wax f To prepare Waxed Cloth To Select Scions ^^ Budding and when to Bud . ^^ How to Select Buds ^^ Tn, P^^'"" *° ^"T" *^' L'g'^t^re and Head Backthe Stock \t The Pruning of Fruit Trees— When to Prune and why Where to Prune [[[[[[] ^^ Pruning to Produce Fi-uit ^^ Transplanting Trees— ^^ The best Time to Transplant Preparingthe Ground ^^ How to Plant '[[ ^^ The best Trees for Transplanting.." !f Mulching — ^' AVhat is Meant by Mulching How to Mulch, and why it is done ^« Treatment OF Young Orchards— To Protect from Mice To Keep the Bark Clean and Healthy ^? Location of Orchard— "'^ Soil and Aspect Hills and Valleys ^^ Injurious Insects, and how to get rid of' them- ^^ The Tent Caterpillar The Two-striped Borer ^^ The Buprestis Apple Tree Borer ^f The Codling Worm ^" The Plum Curculio.. *^ 45. J wm mmmi VI CONTENTS. u ,■<> PACK The Crape Vine Flea Beetle 49 Till- Given Gnipe Vine Siiluux 50 Tii(! Uooaeberry Saw-fly 52 The Pjiouix'tion uf New Vauiexif.s of Fruit — llow they are proiluced 53 Cioss-lertiiization 58 How to Crosa-fortilize 59 Thk AiMLi: — Soil best Suited to Apples 61 How PropagateJ C2 Gathering and Sorting for Market 62 Paeking and Marketing the Finiit C3 Best Kinds for ^Market CI Dwarf and Half-standard Trees 65 Varieties of Apples, with description of each 66 TiiE AriucoT — Climate and Soil Suitable 84 How Projiagated 84 Varieties, with description 85 TUE Cjieuuy — Classes of Varieties and Soil best Suited 85 How Propagated and Stocks on whicli it is Grown 86 Varieties, with full description 87 The Nectaium: — Cultivation and Varieties 92 The Peach — Soil best Adapted and Pruning 94 Manuring 95 Varieties, with description ... 95 Tub Pear— Best Soil 97 Climate and Diseases 97 Manures and Propagation 98 Standard Trees 98 Dwarf Trees and bow to Plant them 99 How to Prune them 100 Thinning Out and Gathering the Fruit 103 Growing for Market 105 Varieties, with full description 105 The Plum— Climate aud Soil 118 CONTKMS. VU. riiiir . IHlif. Bpst Fpitilizm and Diseases ^^?^ How Propagatt'd Varieties, witlx description The QiMN(^i;— Wiiere it Can be Grown, and on Wliat Roils Best Manures and How Far i\jiart to Plant How Propagated and Varieties HaT^PY (JllAl'Ks— Proper Soils Preparing tlie Gronnd and Manuring Distance Apart and Time and Method of Plant...^ . TixMtment of Young Vines and Pruning and Train Trellis and "Wire Varieties and description Mildew, &c 'Grai'es under Glass— Shape and Size of Vinery How to Build a Vinery How to Heat it... ' , ■ 149 How to Ventilate it , ;: Best Form of Boiler l?est Size of Pipe Border for the Vines Soil for Border, Compo.st, and Drainage .... Planting the Vines Subsequent Treatment of the Vines Temperature of Vinery by Day and Night., Quantity of Fruit that may be left on the Vines 153 . Ripening the Fruit 118 . 119 . 110 122 . 123 123 124 125 125 126 127 132 138 140 144 145 148 148 149 150 161 152 154 Diseases of Vines— Shanking. , Mildew.. 155 jgy List of Vines most desirable for Vinery jry List for Early Forcing Fruiting Exotio Vines in Pots....... Ill 153 160 161 The Blackrerry- Soil Cultivation and Propagation Varieties, with description t^' The Strawberry— Sexes JgO Soil and Mdnurea ,., 164 ,-r VIU. CONTENTS. PAGE Best Time for Transplanting and Best Plants 1 6& Preparation of Ground and Planting 166 Production of New Varieties 167 Varieties, with full description 168 The Raspberry — How Propagated 171 Best Soils and How to Plant 172 To Cultivate 173 To Prune 174 To Protect in Winter 175 Varieties, and their description 175 The Currant — How to Propagate 180 How to Cultivate and Prune 180 Varieties, with full description 180 The Goosebery — The Mildew 181 How to Prune and Cultivate 182 Varieties 183 The Cranberry — Preparation of Soil 183 Planting and Cultivation 186 How to control the Water, so as to flood or drain off at pleasure 184 Varieties 187 The Huckleberry — Natural Soils 188 KITCHEN GARDEN. Asparagus — How to Prepare the Soil 194 How to Plant and Cultivate 195 When and How to Cut and How to Cook 196 Varieties 196 Beans — Dwarf or Bush Varieties 197 Running or Pole Varieties and their Cultivation 199 Beets — How to Prepare the Soil and Cultivate 201 Gathering and Preserving in Winter 202 Varieties 203. |! CONTENTS. uc. Broccoli — Culture and Varieties ^^^'^' BRUssELa Sprouts '^^^ Cultivation and Use Cabbage — 205 Soil and Cultiration Varieties 20C Carrots— 207 How to Prepare the Ground and Cultivate <>, « Uses and Varieties "^^^ Cauliflower— 211 Soil and Manures How to Cultivate and to Use '..!"" "^^ Best Varieties ^^^ Celery — 214 How to Cultivate and Blanch.... ToSecureforWinterU.se ...".'.'.".'.' ^^^ Varieties ^^^ Cress or Pepper Grass— -^^ Soil, Cultivation and Varieties Cucumber— 220 Soil and Cultivation Varieties ^^1 Corn— 222 Best Table Varieties . Endive— 224 Cultivation Eoa pS::;::!:'"^"'''""'^^^"'''"^'^'^"^^ Ill Cultivation Use and Varieties.. ^^^ Garlic— ••• 226 Cultivation and Use Horse Kadish— 226 Propagation, Cultivation and Use Kohl-rabi— 227 Cultivation, Use and Varieties. Leek — 228 Soil and Cultivation Use and Sorts ^28 Lettttce — 228 Preparation of Soil and Cultivation The Best Varieties 229 230 X CONTENTS. IfELONS — 1A<:(- How to Prepare the Soil 'J J How to Cultivate, and the Best Varieties '.■'• Onion- How to Prepare the Soil and Cultivate To Preserve during Winter, and the Best Varieties ^ .. Paiisn IP- Preparation of Soil and Cultivation '.l.) Use and Varieties 241 Potato— Soil and Manures 241 Planting 242 Cultivation and Forcing 24 J Varieties 244 Peas — Preparation of Soil and Sowing 245 Cultivation, Use and Varieties 246 Peppers— Cultivation 247 Use and Varieties 248 Radishes— Soil and Cultivation 243 Spring and Autumn Varieties 249 Eiiubard ou Pie Plant — Preparation of Soil 250 Cultivition, Use and Varieties 251 Salsify or Oybter Plant — Soil 251 Cultivation and Use 252 Squash — Soil and Cultivation 252 Summer Varieties 25^ Autumn and Winter Kinds 254 Sea Kale— Preparation of the Ground 255 Cultivation 256 Blanching, Cutting and Use 257 Spinach- Soil and Cultivation 257 Use and Varieties 258 CONTENTS. XL TOMATOKS — PAOn Cultivation 259 Soil 2()2 Yiiri(itics 263 Tl'KN'Il's— Soil and ("iiltivation 264 H.mvstiiiy 264 Viirictios. 265 IIiiT.nKDS— Their Construction und Use 265 Cold Fuames — Their Constraction and Use 268 Tools — Steel Kiike, Scuffle-Hoe and Digging Fork 268 FLOWER GARDEN. Hardy Flowkrino Shrubs— Berberry 272 Carolina Allspice or Calycanthus 273 Canadian Judas Tree 273 Cornus Florida or Dogwood 274 Double Flowering Almonds 274 Deutziiis, Single and Double-flowered 276 Filbert, Purple Leaved 277 Hawthorns, Scarlet, Rose-colored, etc 277 Honeysuckles, Pink and Red Flowering 278 Lilacs, Persian White, etc., etc 278 Prunus Triloba, Double Flowered 279 Purple Fringe or Smoke-bush 279 Rose Acacia . 279 Rose of Sharon or Altheas 280 Japan Quince, Double and Single 280' Spircas — White and Rose, Single and Double 281 Siberian Pea-Tree 283 Silver Bell 283 Syringa or Mock Orange 283 Snowball or Guelder Rose 283 Tamarix 284 Weigelas, Rose-flowered, Variegated-leaved, etc 284 White Fringe 285 xu. OONTBNTS. Hardy Climbing Shrubs — paob Ampolopsis or Virginia CrRoper 288 Bignoniii or Trumpet Flower 288 Birthwort or Dutchman's Pipe 286 Clenmtia or Virgin's Bower, Various Sorts 286 Honeysuckles, Various Sorts 287 Wistaria or Glycine 288 Ivy 289 Hardy Hkruaceous Flowers — Achillea or Milfoil 290 Aconite or Monkshood 290 Aquilegia or Columbine 291 Campanula or Bellflower 291 Carnations 295 Convallaria or Lily of the Valley 293 Delphinium or Larkspur 293 Dianthus, the Pink 294 Dictamnus or Fraxinella 294 Digitalis or Foxglove 296 Dicentra or Bleeding Haart 297 Funkia or Day Lily 297 Helleborus Niger or Christmas Rose 297 Iris, German, or Fleur-de-lis, &c 298 Lathyrus or Ever- blooming Pea 299 Lychnis, Various Sorts 300 Tansies 306 Peouias, Herbaceous Sorts 300 Phloxes, Tall and Short Varieties 302 Spircea or Meadow Sweet 304 Sweet William, Dianthus Barbatus 296 Tricyrtis (very fragrant, new, late-blooming) 305 Violets 305 Yucca, Filamentosa, or Adam's Needle 308 BXTLBOUS-ROOTED FlOWERS — General Observations 309 Amaryllis 315 Crocus : 318 Dahlias 318 Fritillavias 320 Gladiolus 320 Hyacinths 312 Iris, English, Spanish and Persian 323 Lilies of Various Sorts 324 CONTENTS. XIU. I'Ar.R Niinissua 320 Snnwilioiis 327 Ti^'fiiii us or Tij,a'r Flower 327 Till Tlllip; "•rose . 328 330 Bki>dino I'l.ASTs (Floworing tIiroiir;li the Summer) — Vcrhi'iia.^, iiiul How to fare for tlio llrliotroiuM and their Varieties. m. 332 334 Hdiiviirdia, Cultivation and Varieties 335 Coleus 334 Petunias 337 Lantanas 338 Lemon Veilienas 339 Zon.ilc (Jeniniums 340 Variegated-Leaved Geraniums 343 Ivy-Leaved Geraniums 344 Annuals— Asters 346 R;dsams 347 Oiiiliopsi;^ 347 DniniMiond I'hlox 348 Mari>,'olds 348 Mi;,'i'onette 349 Poituluea 349 Kockct Laiksinir 350 Seabiosii or Mourning Bride 350 Sulpiglossis 350 Stock, Ten Weeks' 351 ANNUALh— CmMBINO — Convolvulus or Morning Glory 351 Doliehos or Ilyacintli Bean 352 Gourds ... 352 Sweet Peas 352 Tropeolums 352 Annuals— Evr.ui.AsTiNQ Floweh-s — Aeroclinurn 353 Gomplirena, Globe Amaranth 353 Heliclirysuiu 354 llelipterum 354 Rodantho 354 Xeranthemum 354 2 nrs xiy. CONTENTS. Ornamental Orasses— paoe Afirostia Nclmlosa 355 Bri2a Maxima 355 Erianthus Ravennx 855 Pcnnisetuin 355 Stipa Pciiinatu , 355 "Window-Gardkning — Imjiortaiit Directions 355 Plants suitable 359 ROSBS — Cultivation in tho Garden 3(51 Climbing' llosoH, Choice Varieties 370 Summer Roses, the Best Kinds 371 Moss Koses 373 Autumnal Koses, Blooming a Soeond Time 374 Monthly Roses, for Window Gardening 877 Climatic Variations — General Survey 379 HABDY EvKUr.UEENS — American Arbor Vitao 383 American Yew 384 Austrian Pine 384 Balsam Fir 384 Common Juniper 384 Eastern Spruce 3S4 Hemlock Sprace 385 Lambert's Pine 385 Lawson's Cj'press 387 Nonva.v Spruce 385 Nordmaun's Fir 385 Red Cedar 385 Scotch Pine 386 Siberian Silver Fir 386 Siberian Arbor Vitae 386 Swedish Juniper 386 Tartarian Arbor Vita) 386 White Pine 386 White Spruce .? 387 White Cedar 387 CoNCLtrsioN 389 ACKNOWLEDOMENVS 390 It. ILLURTRATIONH. xr. Firfurcjt 1 nii'l 2, Hhowiii;^ tlii> iiiimiipr of cleft gmftinj? ; fipfiirc 1 bcin^ the Ncioii )>ic|i;»ri'il lor insertion in the stock, ligiire 'J thn Block witli the sciim.s iiiserteil. TAGK 6 Figures I), 1, 5, C, 7, and 8, showin); the method of whip grafting; figure ;t showing the beveUeil siirface.s of stock and scion, figure 4 the same tongiied, llgnre 5 the graft and stock put togctiicr, tigure (i -M tied togi llier with u ligature, figure 7 as d will ifti id liguru 8 d with a stri tOire 9. 10 Firfurc 0, u bnineh or scion jircymrcd for budding 14 Fi'jiiro 1i\ the best form (if budding knife 14 Fiijuri-s 11, VI, in, and 11 show the manner in which the ojieration of building is jierforined ; figure 11 is tiie bud when cut from tho used in budding. The Operation of Budding is performed by se- lecting a smooth place in the stock, and with a sharp, thin-bladed budding-knife, (figure 10 shows the best form of budding knife, although any sharp thin-bladed knife may be used) make first a horizontal cut, just deep enough to cut through the bark, and then from the centre of this make a perpendicular cut of the same depth, the two cuts having the form of a T. Figure 12 shows the slits made in the bark. If the stock be small, that is, one or two years of age, the proper place for insert- ing the bud is as near the ground as can conveniently be done, and, if possible, the south side is to be avoided on account of its greater exposure to the sun. Could we have everything just the most favorable pos- fig. 12, eible, we would select also a cool, cloudy day for the Fio. 10. mh THB PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 15 the operation. After having made the incisions in tho bark as just described, hold the scion or stick of buds in tho left hand, and cut out one of the buds, together with a strip of tho bark and a very thin slice of the wood, beginning to cut about half an inch above the bud, and bringing the knife out about half an inch below the bud. Figure 1 1 represents a bud cut from the scion and ready for insertion. If the wood bo very ripo and hard, the slice of wood should be exceedingly thin in- deed, but if the wood be green and soft, the thick- ness of the slice of wood may be increased in pro- portion to its greenness, but never to exceed one- third of the thickness of the stick or scion. Now with the rounded part of the blade of the bud- ding knife gently raise the bark of the stock at the comers, and holding the bud by the leaf- stalk, insert the lower end under the bark, and slide it down the perpendicular slit, until the upper end of the bark oi the bud coincides withFio. n. Fio. i3. the cross cut or horizontal cut of the X* I^ * little of the bark of the bud extends above the cross cut, it may be cut off with tho budding knife, so as to form a square shoulder, exactly fitting to the bark of the stock above. In practice it is most convenient to hold the bud between the forefinger and thumb of the left hand, and at the same time that the comers of the bark are raised with the right hand, insert the lower end of the bark of the bud under the raised bark. Figure 13 shows the bud in place. After the bud has been inserted it should be tied in its place by winding around the stock a strip of bass-matting that has been previously moistened in water to make it soft or pliable, or woollen or cotton yam will answer very well, taking care to cover all the wound, leaving only the bud with its foot stalk projecting. It is better to begin to wind at the lower end and proceed up- wards, winding the ligature as smoothly and neatly as possible, yet firm and close, so that the bud may be kept in place and the bark smooth and snug to tho stock. Figure 14 represents the 1 i^ffiicii*!!-^ 16 THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES, 11 Pi wliolo complete with the ligature tied around. Care should be had, in raising the hark of the stock, to avoid disturbing the cambium, the soft, mucilaginous secretion lying next to the wood of the stock. The After Treatment of the bud consists in removing the ligature as soon as it begins to bind too tightly around the stock. In from twelve to fourteen days the bud should be examined, and if it appears plump and fresh it has probably begun to unite with the stock, but if it has shrivelled it ia dead. If the stock will yet peel, it may be rebud- ded at once. If the stock has swelled much, so as Wia. u to tighten the ligature, it may be loosened and re-tied, but, in common practice, where budding is done on an extended scale, the ligature is cut when the growth of the stock is such that the bark swells aroimd the ligature. A little practice will enable the operator to decide when it is necessary to remove the string. Usually it is in about four weeks from the time the bud is put in, but the time will vary according to growth of the stock. Cherry and peach stocks usually swell more rapidly than apple or pear. Sometimes the strings are left on aU winter, par^ ticularly if the budding has been done late in the season ; but in our climate this practice is not to be recommended -, the band retains moisture, and in cold weather gathers ice about the bud. In the following spring the stock should be headed back to within about three inches of the bud as soon as the buds begin to start. This will cause all the buds remaining on the stock to push vigorously, and as soon as the inserted bud begins to grow all the natural buds must be rubbed off, and kept rubbed off from time to time, as often as they start. This is done so that all the sap may be thrown into the inserted bud, and its growth promoted. As soon as it has grown a few inches in length it will probably require tying to the stock, so as to keep it upright. In doing this the string or band should not be wound around the growing shoot, but merely passed round it and tied around the THE PROPAGATION OF FRUIT TREES. 17 stock, forming a loop within wliich tlie growing shoot has room to expand, the string touching it only on one side, the side of the shoot farthest from the stock. Figure 15 represents a growing bud tied to the stock. In the month of July the bud will have acquired sufficient strength to enable it to stand erect without the aid of any support from the stock. The stock should now be cut back down to the bud. The pruning knife used for this should be both strong and sharp, and placing the edge against the stock on the side opposite the bud, with a sloping cut, drawing the knife upwards and towards the bud, the stock should be cut smoothly off in such a way that there shall be not a particle of the stock left above the bud. The white line across the stock, Figure 15, shows the place where the cut should be made, thus taking off aU that part of the stock above the white line. Fio. is. Budding may be performed in the spring, by keeping the scions in a cool place where the buds will not start, and inserting them in the stock after growth has commenced, but it is seldom practised in this country, because success is not as certain, and for want of time at a season when so many things require atten- tion. Some cultivators have found it advantageous in budding plums, in particular, in which the upper part of the bud fre- quently dies although the lower part has united with the stock, to use two separate ligatures in tying, covering the part below the bud with one bandage, and the part above with the other. Ab soon as the bud seems to have taken, the lower bandage is re- moved, but the other is allowed to remain for two or three weeks longer, which arrests the downward sap and perfects the union of the upper part of the bud with the stock. mmtm BEU, 18 PRUNING OF FRUIT TREE3. •i PKUMNG OF FEUIT TREES. When is the best time for pruning fruit trees, is a question often asked, to which the reply of an old gardener was more appropriate than polite, who answered " whenever your knife is sharp." If fruit trees are properly attended to and pruned every year as much as is renuisite, they wUl need but very little pruning at any time, a- a it is not of much moment 'v^^hen that httlo is done. The words of the lamented Downing should be graven upon the memory of every one who takes knife in hand against his fruit trees. He says, "A judicious prunx.ng, to modify the form of our standard trees, is nearly all that is required in ordinary practice. Every fruit tree, grown in the open orchard or garden as a common standard, should bo allowed to take its natural form, the whole efforts of the pruner gomg no further than to take out aU weak and crowded branches, those which are filling uselessly the interior of the tree, where their leaves cannot be duly exposed to the light and sun, or those which interfere with the growth of others. AU pruning of large branches in healthy trees sJiould be rendered unnecessary, by examining them every season, and taking out superfluous shoots while they are small." Yet there is a best time for pruning, and that time depends upon the object for which the pruning is done. The two pur- poses most commonly intended are aU that it will be necessary here to speak of, namely, pruning to regulate the form of standard trees, and pruning to induce fruitfulness. In PRUNING TO REGULATE THE FORM of standard trees, if the trees have been properly cared for every year, it wUl only be necessary to remove small branches, and this may be best done in our climate after the severe frosty weather of our winters is passed, and before the sap is in full flow. This ■vvill be in March or early in April, varying with the season and locality. If done at this time, the sap will not have fully ascended into the branch that is taken away, and will be directed into the remaining par- *•"" '^*% if be or- ,1 I PKUNING OP FRUIT TREES. 19 tions of the tree; if the pruning be done after the sap has ascended, it will be measurably lost to the tree. If the pruning be done before the severe winter frosts are over, experience has taught us that the frost so affects the tree through the wounds, especially if they be large and numerous, as to impair its health and vigor. But if the pruning has been neglected, and there are largo branches to be removed, it is best done just after the trees have made their first growth and are taking what has been termed their midsummer rest, which is in July or August in our climate* It has been found that if large branches are taken off at this time the wood remains sound, whereas, if taken off in the spring, particularly if the sap is circulating freely, the wood is apt to decay, and though it may heal over, the part always remains unsound. Yet some caution is needed here, lest too many large branches be removed in one summer, and the vigor of the tree receive too severe a check. Summer pruning tends to lessen the vigor of a tree, and though we advise the removal of large branches at this season because it is better somewhat to check the growth of the tree than to risk the decay of the trunk, yet judgment shotdd be used, lest this be carried too far. When large limbs are removed it is always advisable to use a fine saw, and after smoothing the cut with a sharp knife, to cover the wound with some preparation that will protect it from the weather. Common grafting wax, or a mixture of fresh cow dung and clay, may be used ; but the most convenient preparation for this purpose is made by dissolving gum shellac in alcohol until the solution is of the consistence of ordinary paint. This may be applied with a common paint brush and kept in a wide- mouthed bottle, which should be kept well corked. Thus applied to the wounds, it soon hardens and forms a coating that is not affected by changes of weather, yet adheres closely and com- pletely excludes air and moisture, and f^t the same time does not interfere with the growth of the bark over the wound. There is also a right place at which to make the cut in removing entire branches ; if cut fartlier from the tree than this 20 PRUNING OF FRUIT TREES. i* Fig. 10. point, a portion of the branch remains, which not only gives the tree an unsightly appearance, but wliich is very sure to throw out sprouts; and if cut closer to the tree, an unne- cessarily larger wound is made, which requires more time to heal over. It may bo noticed that where a branch unites ■with the main body there is a shoulder or slight enlargement. This shoul- der is shown in Figure IG, and the line indicates the place at which the cut should be made. It is at the point where the branch unites with this shoidder, so that the shoulder, or slight protuberance at the base of the branch, is left on the tree, and the wound made in cutting is no larger than the diameter of the branch. Also in cutting back small branches care should be taken to cut them off just above tho bud, not so close tts to injure tho bud, nor so far from it as to leave a long spur of wood. Figure 17 represents a branch cut back too far from the bud. Figure 18, a branch cut too close to the bud; and Figure 19, one that is cut as it should be. The cut shoidd be made so that the point of the bud mil coincide with tho edge of Such a cut will heal over sooner than any other, and the bud at the point will grow vigorously. The form of standard trees will need only such modification as may be requisite to admit a free circulation of air through tho branches, and sufficient light and heat to ensure the fidl- est development of the fruit. If the top of a tree is permitted to become a thicket of branches, it is quite obvious that some parts will be too crowded, the air can circulate but imperfectly, and tho sunlight is wholly ex- Fia. le. In consequence of this, much of the fruit will be below the normal si^e of the variety, but partially colored, and very deficient in flavor. This can be remedied by judicious pruning, Fig. 18, eluded. U;i I PRUNING OP FRUIT TREES. 21 ing, removing somo of the branches from the interior, and keeping the head open to the light and air. On the other hand, prun- ing can bo carried too far, especially by removing so much of the foliage as to leave the nearly horizontal limbs exposed to the full blaze of a nearly vertical sun. The evil effects of this are seen in the death of the bark on the upper side of the large branches thus exposed; the circulation is impeded, and the tree often assumes a stunted and sickly appearance. The pruner, then, must use his own judgment, and adapt his pruning to the special circumstances of his own case. An orchard that is exposed to the sweep of high winds wiU not suffer from want of circulation of air as one that is sheltered, and, if pruned as would be desira- ble for the sheltered orchard, might suffer for the want of that protection which the branches afford each other. So then, it is possible only to point out the objects to be sought, and leave to each one the carrying out of the particular amount of pruning, and the details of the work in his own orchard, in the exercise of those reasoning powers which will enable liim to so shape his trees that foliage and fruit shaU be fully developed in the great- est abundance. And in this exercise of the judgment lies the true secret of excellence. Pruning to Induce Fruitpulness, is sometimes desirable in the case of trees of very vigorous habit, and that are tardy in coming into bearing. This pruning is applied not only to the branches, but also to the roots. The root-pruning simply consists in cutting off a portion of the roots, thereby lessening the quan- tity of nourishment derived from the sod. It is done in autumn, by digging a trench about eighteen inches deep around the tree, with a sharp spado, cutting off the roots that reach the trench. The distance that this trench should be from the trunk will vary according to the size of the tree, taking care that it be so far as not to cut off too many and too large roots. The digging of such a trench once will usually so check the wood growth that the tree will form fruit-buds, and set its fruit. After having thus thrown the tree into bearing, it is usually necessary to sup- Si?vJS!!5*f:i:: ^^^^^^^W^S^Si •22 TRANSPLANT! NO. I ply tho tree with a little well-rotted maniire, in order to keep it in sufficient health and vigor to perfect its fruit. The pruning of the branches for this purpose is performed in midsummer, and is not so much a cutting as a pincliing off of the tender end of the shoots with thumb and finger. This checks tho growth of tho shoot, and concentrates the sap in the remaining part of the branch, thus inducing the formation of fruit buds. At least tliis is the tendency, and tho operation usuauy produces, in a greater or less degree, the desired effect. But it sometimes happens that the tree is growing so vigorously that the buds wUl break and form shoots. When this is the case, recourse may be had to root-pruning; or by bending down the branches and fastening them in a perfectly horizontal position, or even curving them downwards, such a check wiU be given to the flow of sap that fruit buds wOl be formed. When a tree is growing rapidly it can not produce much fruit, and it is only when this wood-pro- ducing energy has expended itself by the completion of the growth of the tree, or has been checked artificially, that abun- dance of fruit will be produced. By this it will be seen that the formation of much wood is antagonistic to the formation of much fruit, and that whatever will lessen the wood growth, without injury to the health >i the tree, wiU increase the production of fruit. A topy repeated ploughings, turning the furrow always towards tho centre of tho land, the grountl may bo thrown up to tho required height, and tho trees planted along tho middle of each land. This method will bo found particularly beneficial where the ground is naturally level, or the subsoil cold and sterile. A naturally rolling surface, with a porous subsoil, is to bo preferred for fruit trees wherever it can bo had. In Planting, tho trees should not be set into tho cold and barren sub-soil, but if the surface soil bo too shallow to receivo the roots, it is better to throw the earth up around tho tree so aa to cover the roots to tho proper depth and keep them in the mel- low and fertile soil. Trees have been planted where tho surface soil is thin, by spreading out tho roots on the surface of tho ground and covering them with earth, and they lived and grew well, whereas, if they had been planted in holes dug in the ordi- nary way they would never have been worth anything. It is a common error to plant trees too deep. They should not bo set fio as to stand any deeper after the ground has become settled than they stood in tho nursery. Tho holes should be dug largo enough in diameter to admit of the roots being spread out in their natural position, not coiled up or turned up at tho ends, and the soil iu the bottom of the hole should be loosened up and made crowrirg in the centre ; upon this the tree shoidd be set, and the roots spread out in a natural way. The rich and thor- oughly pulverized surface soil should be carefully fdled in, and worked with the fingers among the roots, and pressed down gently with the foot. When all is complete the surface should bo left loose and friable, not trodden hard, as is often done, and should be made nearly level with the surrounding soil, if the planting be done in the spring ; but if it be done in the fall, make a mound of earth over the roots and around the stem of the tree, as already recommendod. In settling the earth about the roots 26 TRANSPLiVNTINO. I 1 i I 1! ' Ml of tho tree, do not shake it up and down or swing it about, but let it be held firmly in place while the earth is being placed among and over tho roots. Mulching, by which is meant the spreading of coarse manure, half rotted straw, or any other litter on tho ground over the roots of tho trees, will be always found of great service in keep- ing tlio ground cool and moist, and promoting tho growth of newly transplanted trees, particularly if tho succeeding summer should bo hot and dry. There is a substitute for mulching that is perhaps better than a mulch, but in the hurry of summer work it is so sure to bo neglected that tho planter had better mulch hia trees as, soon after planting as possible. If, however, he will keep tho ground loose and friable around his trees by frequently stirring the surface, and never allow it to become baked and hard, he may safely dispense with mulching. But because it is recom- mended to spread coarse manure on tho surface of the groimd, let it not bo therefore inferred that it is ever advisable to place fresh maniue in tho soil about the roots of the trees. It is very apt to kill newly planted trees, and sure to do more harm than good. If it is thought necessary to enrich the soil, old and perfectly rotted manure may be thoroughly incorporated with it, but tha safer way is to place the manure on tho surface, and let its ferti- lizing properties be gradually wash'^d down by the rains. It is very seldom that trees which ha^ carefully taken up, care- fully planted, and well mr^ il require any Watbrino during the dry summer we xf it should become necessary, however, to give them watt. , ^ should be done thoroughly. A mere moistening of the surface of the ground is worse than none at all. Give enough to penetrate down to where the roots lie and to soak the ground about them thoroughly. And now, if the trees have not been mulched, it should be done immediately, in order to prevent the evaporation of the water that has been given, and the baking and cracking of the earth under the rays of a scorching sun. If no litter can be had with which to mulch, effect the same result by stining the surface a few hours after the water has been given, and before the sun has baked the TRANSPL ANTING. 27 earth. If thia be not attended to, better not to give any water at all, for the hot suu will only bako the earth the harder for your watering. The TREES MOST SUITABLE FOR PLANTING aro young, healthy trees of from two to four years' growth. It is dilTicult to transplant largo trees successfully, on account of the impossibility of preserving tho small fibrous roots, which are most numerous towards tho extremities of tho large roots, in sufficient quantity to support tho tree. It is through tho small fibrous roots that the tree derives its nourishment from the ground, and, therefore, tho more numerous they are tho more likely the tree is to tlirive, and more of these can be taken up entire in removing a small tree than a largo one. Young trees, that have been grown in suitable soU and properly taken up, will be furnished with a good supply of roots. The best soil in which to grow young trees for transplanting is a good, sandy loam. They will make much better and more fibrous roots in such a soil than when grown in stiff clay, and are consequently more likely to live and thrive well when transplanted. Some have entertained the opinion that trees from a sandy soil will not thrive when planted in clay, and that trees from a clay soil will not thrive when removed to sandy soil. This is a great mistake. A tree weU supplied with fibrous roots will thrive in any soil, and the nurse- ryman who consults the best interests of his customers will select a rich, sandy loam in which to grow his young trees, experience having taught us that in such a soil they throw out an abundance of small and fibrous roots. In taking up a tree, it is im- possible but that some of the roots will be cut off, but a tree that has been well taken up will have something of the appearance shown in Fig. 20; fio. 81. Fio. 22. Fio. 20. „jji|H!j|Hil|||l|l m** S8 mfm 28 tran3:plantino. : : but trees that resemble Fig. 21 have been badly dug, and those are worse dug that look like Fig. 22. It may be often of great advantage to procure the trees when they are two years old, plant them out in a nice piece of rich, loamy soil, in rows four feet apart o two feet apart in the TOW. Trees grown in this way, for a couple of years, make a splendid mass of roots, can bo transplanted into orchard form at the owner's convenience, and are sure to live and do well. Low, stout-bodied trees are much better than those that arc tall and slender. The diameter of the trunlc of a tree is of much greater importance than its height. A tree tliat has a stout body is more surely healthy and well-rooted, and will be able to support a top and keep erect, while a tall, slender tree is apt to have slender, tapering roots, and is often too weak-bodied to sustain the top without being tied to a stake. Besides all this, in some parts of tho country where the cold is severe, it has been ascertained by actual trial that stout trees, with low heads, are much better able to resist tho • cold than those which arc trained high, with long, exposed trunks. We strongly urge upon planters living in the colder sections of the country to select stout, low- headed trees, and keep them branched low, being assured they will be more healthy and live longer, and yield more and finer fruit than when trained high. Trees, when received by the planter, should be kept from the drying effect of tho sun and wind imtil he is ready to plant them out. The most convenient and efiectual method is to dig a trench, into which the roots are placed and covered with soO. Here the trees can remain safely until it is convenient to plant them. This is called heeling-in. On taking them out for planting the roots should be examined, and any bruised or mutilated parte pared smoothly with a sharp knife, and any injured cr broken branches pruned smoothly, or entirely removed. In planting, the roots should be covered with a mat or old bit of rug, or anything, indeed, that will keep them from getting dry. Heelii^g in may be alfio practised where it is not desired to plant TRANSPLANTING. 29 tuo trees in the autumn, and it is not practicable or convenient to obtain the trees direct from the nursery in the spring. But in such cases the roots must bo well secured from frost, and the tops also should be covered with branches of evergreens. Shortening the side branches and a portion of the top of the tree at the time of transplanting in the spring is advisable, in order to restore the proportions between the root and the top. Judgment must be exercised in this operation, keeping in mind that th<'- object is to lessen the amount of foliage somewhat, because the quantity of roots have been lessened. As a rule, about one-third of the top, including th>3 sido branches, may bo removed. In cutting away the side branches, it is better merely to cut them back, leaving three or four buds, instead of cutting them off close to the body of the tree. Tlic circulation through the trunk of the tree is kept up by the foliage that will form on these spurs, whereas, if cut off close to the trunk, the exposed wood seasons back into the trunk, and if there bo many of tliem, seriously interferes with the circulation of tho sap. For this reason do not cut off tho small spurs and leaf-buds which may bo on tho body of tho tree. They materially aid in keeping the body fresh and soumi, and the sap in free and healthy ciiculatiou. After tho tree has become established they may be removed, and then tho slight wound will rapidly heal over. Tho After-treatment of young orchards consists in keeping the ground mellow and in good heart. Doubtless tho very best thing for the trees is to keep tho gi .^and thoroughly cultivated, tho surface loose and friable, and free from weeds, without attempting to raise any crop ; but this is not to bo expected of tho most of our planters, who hardly feel able to tdl tho soil so thoroughly for so many years without any return. Hoed crops are the best to raise in an orchard, treating each tree as a part of tho crop, giving it the same manuring and cultivation as tho rest. Cereals, as rye, wheat, barley and oats, are not so suitable, and there can be nothing worse for a young orchard than to seed it down and let it lie in grass to be mown or pastured. If put mm 30 TRANSPLANTING. h « down in grass, let it never be cut, or if cut, left to decay on the ground where it grew. A top dressing of lime at the rate of twenty bushels to the acre may be applied with benefit, especi- ally about the time the trees come into bearing, to be renewed every three Ox' four years, A^hes, leached or unlcachcd, crushed or ground bones, gypsum or plaster, chip manure from the old wood pile, horn shavings, wool waste, and occasionally a light coating of well rotted barn-yard manure, wiU all be found benefi- cial to the orchard, applying these in such quantities, and at such intervals, as Avill keep the orchard in a heal'^v condition, but not induce an excessive wood growth. After the trees have become so large as to shade most of the ground, it wiU no longer be pro- fitable to grow crops of any kind in the orchard. It may now be seeded down to grass, which should not be removed from the orchard, but suffered to remain and decay on the ground. This will servo as an excellent protection to the roots, and by its decomposition enrich the soil. A dressing of ashes, bone dust or plaster, should not bo neglected ; it will be amply returned in the increased beauty, size and quantity of fruit. To Protect the Trees from Mice, which are often very destructive to young trees by gnawing off the bark at the surface of the ground, and, when they become numerous, injure even bear- ing trees, the trees may be painted with the following mixture, which is recommended by Downing. Take one spadeful of hot slaked lime, one of clean, fresh cow dung, half a spadeful of soot, and a handful of flour of sulphur ; mix the whole together with sufficient water to bring it to the consistence of thick paint. In the autiimn paint the trees with this mixture from the ground to the highest snow line, choosing dry weather in which to apply it. This is a perfectly safe application, and has been proved by repeated trial to bo entirely harmless to the tree. In those parts of the country where the snow is seldom deep, it has been found that a mound of earth raised around the tree to the height of a foot or so, enough to bo above the ordinary level of tho snow, will fully preserve the trees from their ravages, for they always i SOIL AND ASPECT. 31 work tinder the snow, never in open daylight. Coarse paper may be tied around the tree, and smeared with coal tar ; and some use strips of roofing-felt fastened around the trae ; others, old stove pipe — in short, anything that will keep the mice from gnawing the bark. A WASH FOR THE TRUNKS AND BRANCHES is made by dissolving one pound of potash in two gallons of water. If this be applied with a brush or swab to the bark of the trunk and larger branches before the buds burst in spring, it will make it smooth and glossy, and is sure death to the bark-louse and all insects and their eggs wliich harbor in the crevices and under the scales of the bark. It is also a great preservative from the attacks of insects, and seems to promote the health of the tree, giving a fresh and lively appearance to the bark. Soft soap — that which is ropy is preferable to that which is like jelly — is also an excellent preserva- tive from insects, and may bo applied by rubbing it on with a coarse cloth. If the bark of the tree has become very rough, it is necessary to scrape off the loose pieces before applying tho wash. This can be readily done by cutting a piece, in shape like a new moon, out of tho edge of an old hoe, which will shape tho edge of tho hoe so as to lit very nearly to the trunk of the tree. The soft soap is preferable to the potash wash for old trees with, such thick and rough bark. .'4 SOIL AND ASPECT. It is essentially necessary to the health and longevity of fruit trees, and tho perfect development of the fruit, that the soil in which they are planted should bo perfectly drained ; and by this should bo understood not only tho entire removal of all stagnant surface water, but of all stagnant water in the soil. If such a condition does not naturally exist, it should be secured by artificial means. To plant fruit trees where the roots must be soaked with excess of water during any long-continued period, can only be productive of disappointment and loss. This liaving IP ::i '! 32 SOIL AND ASPECT. III! ' been seciu'ed, all other questions concerning the soil are, compara- tively, of little moment. Soils that will produce good crops of grain will bo found well adapted to fruit. The soils best suited to the several fruits will be mentioned when we come to treat of the different fruits separately, but for most of the fruits of our climate, strong calcareous loams, that is, loams in which there is just enough sand to make them easily worked, and which are abundantly suppHed with limestone, are the best suited to the raising of fruit. Deep valleys, with only small streams of water, are bad situations for fruit trees, for the reason that, in calm nights, the cold air settles down in these valleys, frequently killing buds and blossoms, while on the adjacent hUl-tops they entirely escape. Usually lull-sides, sloping to the west, arc the best for fruit trees, protecting them from the rays of a bright sun after a clear fi-osty night. The borders of large rivers and lakes are favorable situations, large bodies of water having an ameliorating effect upon the temperature. Sometimes a slight mist rising from the water in the morning, after a frosty night, so softens the rays of the sun that the frost is dra^vn out very gradually, and the injurious effect of sudden thawing prevented. An aspect that is sheltered from the sweep of the prevailing winds by a belt of woodland, and particularly of evergreens, enjoys an immunity from extremes of cold which often prove injurious to more exposed orchards. As our forests fall before the axe, and the country is laid bare to the frost-laden winds of our Canadian winters, and the climate thereby becomes more harsh, the most successfid fruit growers will be those who have sheltered their orchards by planting belts of evergreens, and, as strongly advised by Mr. Elliott, occasional evergreen trees, or clumps of them, scattered with judgment here and there through the orchard, and always so disposed as that their ameliorating effect shall be most bene- ficially felt by the adjacent fruit trees. Much might be writtei. on the vjJuo of such belts and clumps of trees to every farmer ; ►on the great benefits accruing, not only to the OTchard, but to the *%% INSECTS. 83 aro bad ghts, the buds and f escape, uit trees, ar fi-osty Bvorable ig effect rom the I rays of md the t that is . belt of imunity exposed mtry is !rs, and farm crops, to the stock, and to his own house — concerning their ameliorating influences on the temperature, on the purity and healthfulness of the atmosphere, on the electrical conditions favorable to animal and vegetable life, on the amount of rain and dew; but, alas, in this age of haste, an enlarged and enlightened policy, which takes into consideration the wants of a life-time, and plans with reference to the needs and comforts of years yet in the distance, is almost wholly lost in thoughts of immediate advantage. " Oh, I shall never live to reap i:. i benefits of all this outlay and care," is a sufficient answer to ail such suggestions, just as though man lived for hi]i\^3lf alone. Is it nothing to have left behind you the impress of your enlarged news upon the acres your children shall till? Is it nothing to have laid foundations broad and deep, upon which those who come after you may build, and bless the forethought and wisdom with which you provided for their comfort and health 1 Is there not a pleasure more rich and sweet than that which centres in self] But enough. Some coming generation may plant and plan with reference to the permanent value of farms and home- steads ; we are too busy. INSECTS. Every cultivator of the soil has need to study carefully the character and habits of insects. Not a farmer but has suffered more or less from their ravages, and the losses of the £xrmers of our Dominion from the destructive habits of these little creatures can only be counted in millions of dollars. Indeed, that General Superintendent of Education Avill deserve the lasting gratitude of his countrymen who shall make the habits of insects one of the branches of Common School education. There are many insects which prey upon the foliage of our fruit trees, and some upon the fruit. Only those can be described here wliich are most widely distributed throughout the country, and whose ravages are most serious. The Entomological Societj y '■■•A 4xi _,.-~^---c I I I 1 I ■ 34 INSECTS. of Canada has undertaken the labor of gi.-ng a complete account of the noxious insects of the Province of Ontario, and in doing this must necessarily describe the most, if not all, of those which are to be found in the other Provinces. Tliis task will be accom- plished in a series of Eeports, in which will be described in turn the insects injurious to the several fruits and crops, and as inci- dental to this, those insects also will bo described which are of service to the cultivator, by reason of their habit of feeding upon those that are injurious ; so that, in time, every fruit grower, gar- dener and fanner will be made acquainted witli the habits of their insect friends and foes, and with the best known methods of combating the enemies. The Reports which relate to insects affecting fruits will be incorporated with the Eeports of the Fruit Growers' Association, and placed in the hands of all its members, and those who wish to possess the f idlest information on this subject shoidd carefully study these reports. In the earlier history of fruit raising in Canada, no serious inconvenience was felt from the depredations of insects, and very possibly in most of the newer settlements the same immunity may now exist. But in all the older settled parts of the land, and especially in those parts Avhere the climate is most favorable to fruit-growing, insects have been suffered to continue their labors without any interference of man, and so to multiply their num- bers that the injury they inflict is becoming, indeed has already become, matter of serious moment. Yet most of our fruit grow- ers content themselves with complaining, and put forth no active efforts to lessen the evil. This arises partly from the habit, so long indulged, of letting them alone, partly from another habit in which they have been educated, of regarding the fruit crop as of secondary importance, but largely from want of acquaintance with their tiny foe, and of the weapons with which to fight it, and the vulnerable spot at which to aim. Achilles, dipped by his mother in the Styx, was made invulnerable in all his body, save the heel by which she held him, and oidy he who had his secret knew how to aim the arrow by which he fell. By the INSECTS. 35 study of the life and habits of these insects will we gain tile knowledge of their secret, and find out how to aim our efforts so as to accomplish their destruction. In this there is much yet to he learned. Let each, then, avail liiniself of the information we now possess, and give to tlieso robbers of our orchards and gar- dens such diligent attention, that our means of fighting them may be improved, and their numbers largely diminished. The growing and marketing of fruit is already assuming con- siderable importance in some parts of the country, and fruit is becoming one of our commercial products. They Avho would reap from their orchards the surest and largest golden harvest, must send to market the finest and fairest fruit, and this can only be done b) him who most persevernigly and most intelligently wages war upon these tiny insect foes, which accomplish by dint of numbers a work of destruction to which, regarded as indivi- duals, they seem to be wholly inadequate. The Tent Caterpillars. — These caterpillars are widely distributed tliroughout the country, and are sometimes so nimierous as to strip the leaves from entire orchards. There are tAvo species; they are called the American and Forest Tent Cater- pillars, and get their name from their habit of making themselves tents to dwell in. Fig. 23, c, is a representation of a cluster or brace- let of eggs from which these cater- pillars are hatched. They are fastened, as shown in the en- graving, around some small twig of the tree, conveniently near the buds from which the leaves are to grow upon which the young cater- pillars are to feed. As the buds burst and the tender leaves put Fio. 23. forth, on some day when the air is warm and full of moisture, the young caterpillars are hatched. K the leaves be not yet h y, 1 1 36 INSECTS. 4 ! sufficiently grown to supply them •with food, there is no danger of their perishing with hunger, for they will feed upon the soft glutinous substance which covers the eggs, and has served to shield them from the wet. Selecting some convenient fork ir the branches, thoy spin in it a web, which they enlarge as thej increase in size. This web or tent is their place of abode, froni which they go in search of food, and to which they return when their hunger is satisfied, all going out and returning together in rcgidar procession. When full grown they are about two inches in length, colour deep black with a Avhito stripe extending along the back, and on each side of this stripe arc numerous irregular yellow lines and a row of pale blue oval spots. The Forest Tent Caterpillar has a row of Avhite spots along the back instead of a stripe. When they have attained to this size they leave their tents and become scattered about, seeking secure places in wliich to spin their cocoons, such as the crevices of fences and the loose bark of old trees, or any neglected rubbish. The cocoons are oval, pale yellow, loosely woven, and the meshes fdled with a fine powder resembling sulphur. Having wrapped himself in this cocoon, the caterpillar changes to the pupa state, remaining in this condition about three weeks, when the moth comes forth, working its way out at one end of the cocoon. The moth is of a dull, reddish buflf colour, with two parallel, nearly white stripes or bands running obliquely across the fore-wings. These moths are most abimdant in July, live but a few days, in which the females lay their eggs upon the twigs of the trees in a broad belt, usually encircling the twig, and cover then with a thick coating ©f glutinous matter, which gives the bracelet the appearance of having been varnished, and serves to protect the eggs imtil the young caterpillars are hatched, and then becomes their first food. The Forest Tent Caterpillar does not make so large a tent nor place it in the forks of the branches, but merely makes a slight Aveb on the side of the trunk or large branches. When nearly grown they congregate upon the trunlc of the tree or some large branch when not feeding, and may then be killed by the thousand. INSECTS. 37 The best method of destroying these insects is to search the orchard carefully in tho spring, before the buds are much swollen, and cut oft' tho belts of eggs on tho twigs and burn them. These bracelets will bo found from one inch to twelve inches from the end of tho shoots, and a little practice Avill enable one to discern them readily. It is best to search for them on a cloudy day, thus avoiding tho glare of a bright sun. As each belt contains some threo hundred eggs, this is a rapid and convenient way of destroying this pest. But, as some may escape notice, it wiU be necessary to go through tho orchard just as tho young leaves make their appearance, and search for tho webs or tents in the forks of tho branches. These may bo cut off and tho worms crushed under tho foot, or with a light ladder ascend tho tree and destroy them with the hand, which may bo covered with a stout buckskin mitten. There is no need of our orchards being overrun with these caterpillars, a little attention in tho way already pointed out will enable every one to keep them in subjection. Ho who suffers from this cause may thank his own carelessness and indolence, and deserves, in addition to losing his apple crop, to be compelled to pay into the treasury of the municipality a handsome fine. Fig. 23 represents one of the tents of tho American Tent Cater- pillar, with two of the larvoe, a and b, on it, showing the side and back view, and d represents the cocoon. Fig. 24 is the male moth, and Fig. 25 tho female moth, and Fig. 26 tho pupa which is found inside of the cocoon. Fig. 27 shows tho Forest Tent Caterpillar, distinguished from the other by the row of white spots on tho back instead of a white line. These caterpillars are found most abun- dantly in our apple orchards, but they feed also upon the cherry, and have been fomd F'o- 25. Fjo. m. Fio. 24. 38 INSECTS. Fio. 28. on the peach. Tho ^v^itor cannot romembor over having seen thorn upon tho pear. TUK TWO-STRIPED Sapcrda hivittata. This beetle is very destructive to young apple trees, and sometimes attacks tho pear and quince. It does its work so silently, and removed from observation, that fine orchards have been entirely ruined before suspicion was entertained that any danger threatened. Fig. 28 represents the beetle or perfect insect and tho grub from which it is produced, or the same insect in the larva state. The perfect insect is light brown on the upper side, marked Avith two clialky-whito stripes, running lengthwise of tho body ; the under side, the face, tho antenna;, and tho legs are white. It is usually about three quarters of an inch long, moving about at night and remaining concealed by day. During tho months of June and July tho females deposit their eggs upon the bark of the tree, near tho root, at that part knoAvn as tho collar of tho tree. Here the bark is softer than at any other place on the trunk. From tho eggs arc hatched little fleshy whitish grubs without feet, which cut through the bark, and, on reaching the sajj-wood, excavate a round, smooth cavity, about the sizG of a silver dollar, immediately under tho bark. At the bottom of this cavity it makes a hole, out of which it casts its excrements, which appear lilco very fine sawdust. At tliis stage of its existence its presence can be readily ascertained by searching for this dust on the ground, just around the tnmk of tho tree. When tho larva has become about half grown it ceases to cast the dust out of this hole, but proceeds to fill up the cavity it had made, at the same time boring a passage or gallery upward into the heart of the tree. This gallery is continued upwards, of variable length, sometimes not more than two inches, and some- * H ii^ /■ t ^ INSECTS. 3^ times twelve inches, and is gradually brought outwards again to the bark of the tree, but not through it. When the grub has completed this gallery it turns around and returns to that part of it which is nearest to the heart of the tree ; this part it now enlarges by tearing olf the libre from the walls, and with tliis libro carefully and securely closes the entrance, so that if some insect enemy slioidd find its way intu the chamber where it passed the lirst part of its life, that enemy could not enter the gallery to its present abode. At the same time it crowds its sawdust-like excrements into the upper extremity of the gallery, against the bark, thus diminishing the danger of attack from that quarter, and, at the same time, keeping its new cliamber tidy. Having thus perfected its arrangements, it again turns around so as to have its head upwards, passes the winter in a torpid state, and ui the spring casts off its skin and becomes a pupa, from which, in June, the perfect insect hatches, climbs to the upper end of the gallery, tears away .ne line sawdust, gnaws a hole through the bark, and creeps forth. The larva, when fidl grown, is about an inch long, and less than a quarter of an inch thick, of a pale yellow colour, with a brown head and black jaws. When there are several of tliese borers in one tree, they often completely girdle it, thus causing its death. They are distributed more or less numerously throughout the country, and wUl probably extend in time to those localities that now seem to be exempt, so that no orchard, particularly no young orchard — for young and thrifty trees are the favourite resort of this beetle — can be considered safe from their ravages. It is very important that the trees should be carefully examined three or four times every year, lest these borers effect a lodgment imawares. There is a simple method of keeping them out of the trees, and, if this be faithfully employed, they will never effect a lodgment. It has been found that strong alkalies will destroy the vitality of the egg, and, indeed, it is believed that the presence of such an alkali prevents the parent beetle from depositing her fi'! 40 INSECTS. oggs, cither because the odour is offensive to her, or bccauso heir instincts teach her that tiie eggs will only perisli il" sJie places them Avhere they will come in contact with it. The moat eiaciunt method of ajjplying this alkali is in the form of a ropy soft soap, ■which may he ruhhed upon the body of tho tree wilh a swab, particularly at tho collar, and a handful deposited in the forks of tho tree, where the branches separate from tho main trunk, to bo dissolved and washed down by tho rains. A solution of potash, at the rate of a pound of i)otash to two gallons of water, will bo found to answer tho j)urposo in tho absence of soft soap, but will need to be oftener ai)plied. But if tho grub has already got into the tree, tho easiest and simplest method is to hunt him out and kill him. This can be done with a stout-bladed knil'o or a narrow carpenter's gouge. Sometimes tho newly-hatched grubs may bo found in the month of August, while yet in the bark, their presence being indicated by small black spots in the bark about tho collar of tho tree. "Washing tliis part of the tree with strong lye, or tho above solution of potash, will often be effectual in destroying any of the young larvai that may have escaped detection. At the same time search carefully for tho fine sawdust castmgs, which indicate a larger grub Avitliin ; and, if these are seen, find tho excavation in tho sapwood, and hunt liim out. If the grub have made his gallery into the heart of the tree, the npper opening may be found, usually from three to six inches above tho chamber in the sapwood, by sticking a pin into tho bark until, by the ready sinlcing of the pin, tho exact spot is known; then, with the point of the knife, cut away the bark and pour some of the lye or potash solution do^vn tho gallery until, by its soaking through into the chamber below, you know that it has accomplished its work. By renewing the search for these sawdust castings at intervals through the fall, winter and early spring, they may be effectually routed. TuE BuPRESTis Apple-tree Borer. Chrijsohothris femorata. This beetle is more universally distributed than the two-striped INSECTS. 41 , destroys a Via. 20. borer just doscribed, and, liko it, injures and often destroys young appl(vtr('03 by eating tbo sapwood 8o aa fre(iuently to girdlo tlio trees. l*'ig. 29, a, shows tliis insect in the grub or larva state, b in tlio perfect or winged- beetle state. The grub is yellowish white, soft and footless, broad and Ilattcncd near the head, rapidly tapering toward the other extremity. Its jaws are a deep black, and higldy polished. The I head is blackish brown, and nearly concealed by the second segment or ring. The beetle baa a rough, uneven surface, of a blackish brown colour, with something of a coppery lustre, but the under side looks liko burnished copper, extending down the legs to the feet, -which aro of a deep, shining green. The eggs are deposited in the crevices of the bark, on the trunk and larger branches ; from these the grubs aro hatched, and eat their way through the bark to the sapwood. Hero it makes an excavation in tho wood directly under the bark, increasing tho si^o of the chamber with its ago. When fully grown it bores into tho solid heart of tho tree, where it remains during its quiescent state, and comes out, in tho end of Juno or early in July, a perfect beetle. This one loves to bask in tho sun, and may bo found on the trunlcs of the trees when tho sun is hottest. The application of soft soap to the trunk and larger branches, or of tho solution of potash mentioned before, will bo effectual to prevent these borers from getting into tho trees. Alkaline solutions destroy tho eggs and kill tho young grubs while yet in the bark. But, if the grubs have reached the sapwood, the only way of making sure of their destruction is to hunt them out with a knife and put them to death. Their presence can bo readily detected by the discoloration of the bark, that portion directly over their burrow being both flattened and dead. Young orchards should be thoroughly examined two or threo times a year, and well lubbad with soft soap or washed mth the potash Bolutiou. 1 ! i ! fit iH i 42 INSBOTS. The Codling-worm. Carpocapsa pomonella. This insect is in every orchard in the land, and docs more injury to the apple crop tlian any of the others ; yes, probably more than all the others combined. It is a tinv creature, so very smaU that it has never been seen in its winged state by the great majority of fruit raisers, whom it has rob- bed of tens, if not of hundreds of dollars. In some seasons, fully one- half of the fruit is so marred and eaten out by this worm that it is not fit to bo sent to market. It is an European insect that has crossed the ocean and taken possession of the orchards of the new world, an invader not so easily driven out. At Fig. 30, a represents the moth, with its wings expanded, as when flying, and h the moth when at rest. It is a beautiful little moth, the expanded wings not extending over three quarters of an inch, but the fore-Avings are crossed with numerous grey and brown lines, giving them the appearance of a watered silk, and near the hind angle of each of the fore wings is a dark brown, oval spot, edged with a blight copper colour. The hind wings are a light yellowish brown, as lustrous as satin. These moths, during the month of July, deposit their eggs on the young apple, in the cavity at the blossom end of the fruit, and, as if to destroy the value of as many apples as possible, they take care to lay but one egg on each apple. There are occasional exceptions to these rules ; they do sometimes deposit a second egg in the cavity where the stem is inserted, but these exceptions are met with just often enough to prove that the parent moth intends to deposit only one egg on each apple. — ^ INSECTS. 43 so #. In a few clays these eggs are hatched, and each little worm l)egins to eat its way down to the core, which is readily reached from this point. Arrived at the core, it gradually excavates for itself a chamber, feeding upon the pulp of tlie apple, and in- creasing in size until it has reached maturity. This is done in about four weeks, when it is scarce half an inch long, of a delicate pink colour, and thinly covered with very delicate white hairs. Fig. 30, c, represents the worm of fidl size. "When its growth is completed, ft eats its way through the side of the apple and crawls out. If the apple has not dropped from the tree, it can let itself down very gently by a silken thread which it spins, and seek a secure retreat. The Avorm does not crawl into the ground, as many have supposed, but seeks a hiding place in any crevice, under the rough, bark, between dried blades of gi'ass, in the folds of an old rag, in short, anywhere that a safe retreat can be found. Hidden away in this hiding place, it spins around itself a thin, silken cocoon, like very fine tissue paper, and, inside of this cocoon, throws off its skin and becomes a pupa. The cocoon is shown at Fig. 30, i^, and c represents a portion of ad. ai)ple cut open so as to show tlie chamber made by the worm around the core, and the channel reaching to tlie side, by whicli the worm makes his way out. In due time the pupa, or chi/saiis, as it is also called, works its way out of one end of the cocoon, and the moth, now fully formed within the chrysalis, breaks the shell of the pupa, and comes out. There are two broods of these little codling-worms in each summer. Some, at least, and probably only a part of them, come out in the moth state in August, and proceed to deposit their eggs on the sound apples, apparently selecting the Avintcr fruit. Hence we sometimes meet with these worms in the fruit that has been stored for winter use. The effect upon the fruit is, as a rule, to cause it to ripen pre- maturely and fall to the ground. No doubt, sometimes, the worm has escaped from the fruit before it falls, but usually the worm may yet be found within the freshly-fallen fruit. However, i i 44 INSECTS, i i :! til 1 Mf it does not remain long in the fruit after it has fallen, but pro- ceeds to make its way out, and seek its hiding place, very soon after the fruit comes to the ground. For this reason it is im- portant that the fruit should not bo permitted to reniain on the ground, but be gathered up regularly every day. If it be possible to keep a litter of small pigs in the orchard, with sharp appetites, they will consume the apples as fast as they fall, and thus destroy a great many of the worms. But it will not do to depend upon this method of destroying them alone. Many will escape from the apples before they drop, or creep out soon enough thereafter to escape the pigs. In order to catch these, a rope of straw may be twisted around the trunk of the tree near the ground, and another just below the branches, or, if convenient, strips of woollen rags, lightly twisted together, may be tied around the trees, and a handful of woollen rags laid in the fork of the branches. The worms will seek these as hiding places, and spin their cocoons there. These bands may be examined, and when the worms or cocoons are found to have become numerous, those that are of straw may bo tak^n off and burned, and new bands put in their places. The Avoollen bands or rags may be searched, and the codling-worms killed, or they may be dipped in hot water, or placed on a boaid and pounded with a mallet so as to crush the insects concealed within the folds, and then replaced. Dr. Trim- ble, of New Jersey, recommends this plan, and it is said that aa many as a thousand have been taken in this way, from one tree, in a single season. In addition to these methods of destroying them, great advantage will be derived from building numerous smaU fires in the orchard at night, with chips and shavings, during the month of June. These codling-worm moths, and the moths of a great many other injurious insects, attracted by the light, fly into the blaze and are burned. It is not possible sufficiently to impress upon the mind of each one who has an orchard the importance of using every one of these methods for the destruction of the codling-worm. So rapidly do they multiply, so destructive are their ravages, so sure INSECTS. 45 are some of them to escape — their very insignificance and little- ness shielding them — that it will be only by the use of every one of these means of destroying them that we shall so succeed in keeping them in subjection as to secure a portion of sound fruit. If the labor bo too great, then do cut down your orchards, and not leave them to be breeding places for these pests, from which to spread into the orchards of your neighbors who are trying to secure some fruit that shall be sound and fit for market. The Plum Curculio. OonotracJiehcs nenuphar. This insect is the pest of all our stone fruits. It is to be found in nearly all parts of the Dominion, and wherever it has become numerous it wholly destroys the plum crop, and renders the cherry crop useless. Nearly every fruit grower has been made to suffer from its ravages, and unless energetic efforts are made to keep it in subjection, we may bid farewell to all our choice plums, cherries and other stone fruits. But there is no necessity for this. It has been repeatedly shown that it is quite within our power to so lessen their numbers that we can secure a fine crop of these delicious fruits. Should any have doubts of the possibility of accomplishing tliis very desirable result, they will be much gratified by the perusal of the Eeport on the Plum Curculio, made to the Fruit Growers' Association of Ontario, by W. Saunders, Esq., of London, Ont., and printed at page 50 of the Report of the Association for the year 1870. It will there be seen that many succeeded in saving their plums by devoting a little time every day for about a fortnight to the business of catching them. The simplest and, under ordinary circumstances, the best method of catching the curculio is to spread a cloth under the tree, and jar it by a smart blow. If the trees are of some size, it is recommended to bore a small hole into the trunk of the tree, just below the branches, to the depth of about one- third of the thickness of the tree. Into this slip an iron bolt that "will just fit into the hole. The bolt should be cut off square at both ends. A piece of common cotton sheeting, long enough to ii 46 INSECTS. ■' 4;i i\ i *.!! f 'I i I : 1; II Ifi i, ilf reach as far as the branches extend, and made \nde enough by- sewing, if necessary, two breadths together, may be fastened a* each end to a strip of lath, or any light stick that will serve to keep the cloth extended. By using two of these sheets, spreading one on each side of the tree so as to cover the ground under the branches, and having a place cut out of that side of the sheets next to the tree, in order to receive the trunk of the tree, all the insects that fall from the tree wiU drop on the sheets, and can bo readily seen and gathered up. After spreading the sheets on the ground, a smart blow should be struck on the end of the iron bolt with a heavy hammer. This will jar the tree to the ex- tremities of the branches, and cause the curculios that are in the tree to drop down and feign themselves dead. Having provided a vial, with some alcohol or strong whiskey in it, the curculios may be picked up and put into the phial for safe keeping. Or a wide-mouthed bottle may be used, filled with saw-dust, which is kept moist with alcohol. Shaking the tree wUl not answer the purpose ; that ^viU not bring the curculio down, it is necessary to jar the tree, and if a bolt of iron is not let into the trunk, upon which to strike, care must be taken not to bruize the tree by striking on the bark. It may be often convenient to saw off a stout limb, leaving a few inches projecting from the trunk, and to strike the blow on the end of this stump of the limb. This will answer the purpose of the iron bolt, and save the bark from being bruised. The best time of the day for catching the curculio is before seven o'clock in the morning, and after seven in the evening. Botli morning and evening should bo tried, for in some seasons the cui'culio will be found to be more numerous in the evening, and in other seasons more numerous in the morning. The season of the year for catching them is as soon as the blossoms fall, ■which is usually about the twenty-fifth of May, and should be continued as long as the curculio are found. They will be usually very abundant upon the plum trees, both wild and culti- vated, and upon the cherry trees, especially the sweet varieties. 'I'i, J ii ' INSECTS. 47 In addition to the use of sheets and jarring the curculio from the trees, it is recommended to place bits of bark, with the con- cave side down, on the ground under the trees, as soon as the spring opens. The curculio wUl take shelter on the under side of these pieces of bark, and by turning them over every day and gathering the curc\ilio that will be found clinging to the under side, their numbers may be very rapidly diminished. The number that will be found under these chips will be much greater in some seasons than others, varying with the state of the weather. If cold, wet, and storm prevail, they will seek shelter under the chips, but if it be warm and pleasant weather they will be found in the trees. Another mode of destroying these insects, which should bo employed in addition to both of the foregoing, is the gathering of the injured and fallen fruit, regularly every day, before the curculio grub or larva has time to crawl out of the fruit. Some have fenced in their plum and cherry trees and turned the pigs in to devour the fallen fruit, but when this cannot be done, the fruit should be carefully and regularly picked up, and either fed to the pigs or cooked so as to kill the insects within. But now for the insect itself. In Figure 32, c is a magnified representation of the perfect in- sect, the line underneath it indi- cating its natural length ; d shows it, of the natural size, at work on a cherry, on which may be seen the crescent mark, and a dot indicating the position of the egg ; a is the grub or larva, and h the pupa, both magnified. The adjacent lines are intended to show the actual length of the several forms of the curculio. The curculio is a rough, hump-backed beetle, of a bro-svnish gray color, about a fifth of an inch in length, with a short snout. "When alarmed, this snout is drawn FlO. 32. !lf ■1 I a 1 -I ml 1:1 up body, 48 INSECTS. 1 ^ I i. ! ; ( the legs folded up, so that the insect looks like a dried hud, or a little bit of hark or dirt. In this way it escapes detection, lying perfectly still for a long time as though dead. A sudden jar of the tree upon which it is at work frightens it, and folding up its legs it drops to the ground. By spreading a white sheet under the tree to receive the curculio when it falls, it is easily seen and gathered up. It has wings, however, and in warm weather wUl fly both during the day and night. The mouth is placed at the extremity of the snout, and with this the female bites the fruit and prepares a place for the egg. C. V. Eiley, State Entomologist of Missouri, says that the operation of depo- siting an egg occupies about five minutes. " Having taken a strong hold on the fruit, the female makes a minute cut with her jaws, just through the skin of the fruit, and then runs her snout under the skin to the depth of one-sixteenth of an inch, and moves it back and forth untd the cavity is largo enough to receive the egg it is to retain ; she then changes her position and drops an egg into the mouth of the cut ; then turning around again, she pushes it by means of her snout to the end of tho passage, and afterwards cuts the crescent in front of the hole, so as to undermine the egg and leave it in a sort of flap." In a few days there is hatched from this egg a small white grub, which eats its way towards the centre of the fruit, where it remains feeding upon the pulp until it has attained its full growth. In the case of the plum, the natural development of the fruit is brought to a prematiue conclusion by the presence of this curculio grub, and the plums fall to the ground before they have completed their growth. This is not the case, however, with the cherry, which remains on the tree until maturity, and the eater is often disgusted at finding the fruit that looked so tempting, tenanted and half-eaten by this grub. It would seem that all this was arranged just in this way to seciu-c the perpe- tuation of this pest, for the curculio grub attains its full growth with the ripening of the cherry, but as it completes its growth before the ripening of the plum, this drops off at about the time ' ' • INSECT8. 49 they i the curcnlio grub has finished its growth, so that it may find its way just at that time into the ground. Shortly after the plums drop, the grubs cat their way out of the fruit, crawl into the ground a short distance, and then make for themselves a small cavity, in which they change into the pupa state. During this stage they are inactive, and remain confined in their subterra- nean cell some three or four weeks, by which time they have become developed into perfect beetles, and crawl forth to lay more eggs and destroy more fruit. Annoying and destructive as the curculio has been, there is notwithstanding no reason for allowing it to deprive us of our fruit, for with the knowledge we now have of its habits and of the means of capturing it, none but the lazy and careless will go without an abundance of cherries and plums. The Grape Vine Flea. Beetle. — Haltica chahjhea. — This insect feeds on the grape vine both in the beetle and larva state, and is often very destructive to the grape crop. It is very small, of a bright steel-blue color, though sometimes it is quite green, and jumps, when one tries to catch it, with the agility of a flea. Fig. 33, d, is a representation of this beetle, and b shows it in the larva state ; both are magnified, the true size being indicated by the hair line at the side of each, a is a leaf, perforated by these larvae, which are shown at work upon it, and c is a representation of the pupa. It does the greatest injury in the beetle state. Just as the buds are bursting in the spring, these little fellows, who have been fasting all the winter, and are too impatient to wait until the leaves are expanded, begin to feed on the opening buds, «ating up leaves, st^ms, grapps and all, as they lie enfolded in the Fig. 33. I!. ill- 00 1N3ECT8. i ! i ! '■■\ i I' I I ? if If ili I : f II "bud. In tliis way they make sad havoc, destroying the entire crop of fruit and sadly mutilating the vines. These beetles deposit clusters of orange-colored eggs on the under side of the vine leaves, from which the larvte are hatched ; these are small, dark-brown worms, with black heads, which feed usually on the upper side of the leaves, but are sometimes to be found on the under side. In this stage they are very easily gathered and destroyed. They attain their full size in from three to four weeks, when they crawl into the ground and pass into the chrysalis state, from which they emerge in due time, as little, blue or green, jumping flea-beetles. In the beetle state it is difficult to catch tliem, they verify the saying "that when you put your finger on them they are not there." "VVa have no confidence in any dusting of them with air-slaked lime or sprinkling of them with soap suds ; they are not so easily killed. White hellibore sprinkled on the opening buds may poison them. But the sure way of destroying them is to make thorough search among the young leaves for the eggs and the larvae, and carefully pick them off and crush them. The Green Grape Vine Sphinx. Chcerocampa pampina- trix. This insect belongs to the family of Hawkmoths, which remain concealed during the day, but may often be seen of a warm summer's evening hovering over tlie flowers in the garden, much after the manner of a humming bird, and thrusting theic long proboscis into the nectaries of the flowers. In the moth state it is a very pretty insect. The upper side of the fore wings is of a dark olive >green, banded with greenish grey, and the hind- er wings are dull red. Fig. 34 is a very good repre- sentation of this ^'e-34. ^oth. Fig. 3& INSECTS. 61 shows the chrysalis, and Fig. 3G the caterpillar. The moth lays her eggs on the under side of the vine leaves, from which the caterpillar is hatched in a few days, at first only one-fifth of an inch long, and having a long black horn on the last segment of the body. It is a groat eater and rapidly increases in size, imdorgoing some changes in *"'£• ^'^• appearance