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Id H 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 r r :.■;■ '. i' ^ miJ\mi^ ■■■•/.*;/■ 'i. BRITISH COLUMBIA- A LECTURE OH . ^'' QU EEN CHAR LOTTE I SLA^DS, >.,■.?:.> DBUTISBD, BT SPBOIAIi RKQUBST, before the Probincial ^tt^kixat, BT HON. JAMES G. SWAN, Of Port Townsbnd. W. T., CONNCXTTED WITH THE . SMITHSONIAN IMSTnurE, WASHINGTON. ., .>'■■ tlOraiUA 1 Firtntad hj lUGnMW Wowsmwit, CKwwiuuwe Molar, tt Om QoirtfaiMOt Printlss Oflla*, Juac^ Bay. ' 18M. . c M^ ''^' ' i^;-*- A ^^ Wop Lectii 1 IDklivkiiri Mr. Sj^t'dh'r, Lnilir 13ef()r»i ('oiniin:iiciii Isliiiuls, it will jM'ili no (ficio ai States, the Judf^es of ecutive heads of all tl The Secretary of tlie '. who i.i the cliief execi The ■Smithsonian 1 first meeting held in wan ado|)t(!d from it wealthy Englinii gent ments, who was born died in France in 185 the first Duke of N heiress of the Hunge Charles, the proud Di The will of Janu>s S "I bequeath the whol States of America, t tho name of the Smi Hshment for the incre among men." This w had farst bequeatiied long since ex))ired, m and was proved in tin bury, by Mr. Cliarles on the fourth of Nove The first announce Governmejit of tlu^ fii become entitled to th 1835, but the amount ceived till August, 18 rived in New York br which was re-coiacd Unitiul Stat(!S iiiint in 318. 4(), as tile bcfiucH was deposited in tlie '] 10'»9( Lecture on Oiieen Charlotte Islands. [Dblivkhrd iw LKOiftLATivF. Hali., Rritihii Columbia, iiy Hon. .Tah. (I. Swan, of Tout T.wnshnp.| Mr. S}M'(ih'r, LmUrx and (rfiillniun: Bcfovti coimiHiiu'iiiR my ii(UM)uiit of (Juoon Charlotte Lsliinds, it will iM'rliiii)M \ni proper for iiu\ as it will no doubt iiit«'n'st some amoii^ von, to inform you why I, an Ameiiean citizen, slioulil liave been went by tho American Ooverment on a seientitie explora- tion to the Queen Charlotte Inlands, British (Colum- bia. This lead.s mo to give a briif account of the Smithsonian Institution, under whose auspict^s my >'iHit to those islands was made. Sinillixoniiin IiislUnlian. The Smithsonian, is not an Institute, but an In/iH' Intiitn of liinfHiifr.s, so to sj)eak. having under its im- mediate direction and charge the Institution proper, which is the Executive head. The United States Fish Commission, tli<> National Museum and tlx; Bu- reau of Ethnology; it is, in short, what a university is to a college. It is governed by u Board of Regents, of which the Chief Justice of the Su- IH-eme Court of the lTnit«ul States is President; the others are the Vice-President of the United States, members of the Senate and House of Representa- tives, and distinguished citizens of varitms States. There are fourteen members of the Board. Tho members vx-<>(ficio aro, the President of the ITnited States, the Judges of the Supnime Court, and the ex- ecutive heads of all the departments of Governnuint. TIh! Secretary of the Board is Prof Spencer F. Baird, who i.i the chief executive officer. Tlie'Smiths(jnian Institution was ftmnded, and the first meeting held in December, 1847. The name was adojited from its founder, James Smithson, a wealthy English gentleman of great scientific attain- ments, who was born about the year 1754, and who died in France in 1829. He was the sou of Hugh, tho first Duke of Northumberland, and Elizabeth, heire.ss of the Hungtu'fords of Studley, and niece to Charles, the proud Duke of Somerset. The will of James Smithson contained tlie.sc words: "I bequeath the whole of my prom^rty to tho Unl'ed States of America, to fcmnd at Washington, under the name of the Smithsonian Institution, an estab- lishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men." This will, which was very voluminous, had first bequeathed various annuities, which have long since ex))ired, was dated October 23rd, 182G, and was ])roved in the Prtsrogativo Court of Canter- bury, by Mr. Charles Drummond, a London banker, on the fourth of November, 1829. The fir.st announcement made to the American Government of the fact that the Unihnl States liad become entitled to the bequest of Smithson, was in 1835, but the amount of the bequest was not fully re- ceived till August, 1838, when the ship Mediator ar- rived in New York bringing 104,900/, 8.s. G(/. in gold, which was re-coi;ied into American money at tho United States mint in Philailclpiiia, jjroducing $508,- 318.4(), as the beipiest of SmitliHoii, which amount was deposited in the Tn'usury of the United States, who became trust<>es of the fund, where it r.'mained till Angus, 181(), when a bill j)assed Congress, which became a law, and under it the Smitlis])lied to- wards defraying theexiiense of the Institution proper, and is added to by direct annual aiquopriations from Congress for tho various Bureaus connected with it. The OnxmoH of My Vlm't to (Jiwni CluirhtUc Islnmis, I had for many years b(>en intiu-ested in th«« study of the Indians of tlu! Northwest coast, (larticularly the Haidas, of Queen Charlotte Islands, and in 1873 I i>repared a memoir ()n thesis Iiulians, accompanitul with sketches of their carvings and tattoo (hfsigns. This memoir w is published by the Smitli.sonian In- stitution, in Contributi(Uis to Knowledge, No. 2()7, July, 1874. In the notice by the Secretarv, Professor Henry says that "the menioir is a vahialtlo contribu- tion to (mi gen<>ral knowledge i>f anthropology and archieohigy, while yielding besides a special contin- gent to the ethnology of the North American Conti- nent. Under the latter of tliese heads, it raisers some questions of great significance, which it is hoptd will lead to further investigaticn." Prof. Henry was personally very much intrs assign 'd me by Alexander McKenzie, Esci., in charge of the Hudson Bay Com- pany's po.st at Mass(!tt. I was accomjianied fn^m Victoria by mv only assist- ant, a young Haida named Johnny Kit filswa, a very intelligent Indian, who S])eaks good English, and who was of great advantage to me as interpreter and pur- chas^er of articles of Indian manufacture, as well as general .s{;rvant. I had no occasion for the serviccss of a whit*! niaii, and coiise(|uently took none in auv capacity. Perhaps, if I had been accfjiiipanied by V3 10090G A /^ LECTURE ON QUEEN CllAULOTTE ISLANDS, nil iiitcl1i(^(li< ti( iiiiikc (■.\t<'n(l><(l toiirH iiilaml for collections, I litul to rely on DiiwHon'H , (lescri|>ti(»nH in liin iinliliHiieil iicconiit of his ^eojo^i- I eiil snivoy of those mliinds, iniule in 1H7H 79, iirul hu fur us I WHS iiMe to oliserve, I foiinil them correct. 1 remained at Massett till Anf{ust tith, and occii- iiied my time liy making colleetions of Indian curios- ities for the United States National Museiiin, and in stndyin^.^ the manners and (MistoniH, and infornlin^ myself alioiit the Indians, for tlio Ihiited States liii- reau of Ethnology, and (rolh^'ting HpiH-iniens of tlui tish and nioliusks for the United States Fish (Jom- niission. (ii'ixjriiplilriil Lnc'itioji. Tho Quoen (Muirlotto Islands are a ^roni) in the North Pacific Ocean, lying otf the coiiHt ot British ('ohimliia, Ixitween latitude Til dug. ,'3.') iiiin., and M (leg. 15 niin. north, and Ix^tweitn longitude 1>)1 deg. '2 niin., and 13.'{ deg. 5 niin. west. The widi'st ])ortion is at the northern end of Gra- ham Island, on the 54 ih-g. parallel, and nioasuros aliout lifty-two nautical miles. The extrenie length of the gnmp, from north jioint, North Island, to Cape St. James, the wmthern extremity, is 15(» miles. Tilt! islands of thiwt«l equipixil with two moiitA, liko the fore and mainmast of s ship, aiul a Hmall muHt just iibaft of mHiumatit, for carryiuM a toptuul like the miiderii Iwrk. north-west jDrtion of Graham Island, ho saw what he thought was ;i deep bay, but the wind being light and varialile, he a otU'V skins which Dixon called cloaks ; and having laid off and on with nnxhirate wtmther, trading with the Indians for furs, he prejmred to c(m- tinue his (Miurse soi.th on July tlu! fourth, and named the bay which he had settn, but not entered, Chiak Bay. He ihen continued his voyage along the coast of the islands and on the third of August he named the group as foMows : "There is every reason to su])pose not only from the number of inlets we m*;t with in coasting along the shore, but from our meeting th*; same inhabitants on the o]iposit<> sides of the coast, that this is not one continued land, but ratlutr forms a group of islnnds, and as such we distinguish them by tlie name of Qimen Chiiilotto IslaiKls." Captain Dixon does not appear to have landed on the Islands, but made his obst^rvations from his vcsstd's deck. But in 1787 Captain William Douglas, commanding the brig Iphiijenia, one of the vtsssels belonging to Captain Meare's expedition, discovered tliat Cloak Bay, the greatest o|)ening of which faces the west, is termin- ated to the eastward by a strait which separattw the Nortli Island from the northern coast of Graham, the largtsst island of the Queen Ciiiirlotte group; Doug- las named this strait Cox's channel, anchored there occasionally, traded with the natives, and traversed it from tiast to west. It api)ears, however, that the first discovery of this passage behuigs to Captain Gray, master of the American sloop Wanhimjloii. Cox's channel is laid down on the Admiralty charts as Parry Passag(>, named, according to Dawson, after the late Sir E. Parry, l.dt by what authority is not stated. The first chart cm which Queen Charlotte Is- lands is shown, is the Admirality chart from Van- couver Island to Ctmlova Bay, which was taken from a Russian chart of 1S40, correct 7th, anil pitolu-'d my tent in fn»nt of tlu^ .'ornior rosidt'ncn of Edinso, who ih, or claims to liu dut chiof of North IhIuiuI and all thu iiurthern portion of Graham Island, which, aH one of his certiticatim from an t>arly navi gator Hays, "ho actpiirud morn by might than right." Hore I runiainod till tho 14th, and from my oh- HurvntiouH of a month at MaHHutt and a weuk at Ki- oosta, I formed a pr«!tty ac(!urat« idea of tho value of tho uorth )M»rtion of (rraham and North iHlanda. DawHon'n account of Graham Inland being ho nearly m accord with my own observationH, I will (luote from his report on tho timl)flr, grazing lauds and cli- matfl. Mr. Dawson says:* "Tho well known Douglas fir does not (wcur on Queon Charlotte Islands, find- ing its northoni limit on the outer coast, at tho north end of Vancouver Island. The forest is chiefly com- posed of Menzios spruce (Ahien Mevzicnii ) , the western cedar (Tliuyea giganJea) and the western hcmlo(;k (AMea Merienm'inia). The yellow cedar or cypress ( Cii- prcssm Nutknttimis) also occurs, though seldom in largo groves, and generally scattered over tho UKjro baiTon and rocky portions of the hill slopes. Of the above mentioned, Menzies spruce, tho cedar antl cypress are tho most valuable for timber, and though the first named is not equal to the Douglas fir for most pur- poses, it must ere long become valuable and can be obtained of excellent quality, and in almost inex- haustibli) quantity ia these islands. Skidegate Inlet would be convenient in many respects as a site for a saw mill, but Ntulen Harbor or Virago Sound, and Massett Inlet are better suited for tho i)urj)ose, af- fording easy access to a largo area of wooded coun- try." To these may be added the fine harbors on the west coast described by Marchaud. Humid Climate. The great growth of trees and comparative immu- nity of the wootUand from forest fires, depend piinci- {)auy on the damp character of the climate of the is- ands, which is also evidenced in many other ways. The heaviest rainfall, however, is local, taking place on the westem mountainous axis, where the wtisterly wind, Burshargod with moisture, first meet an impedi- ment in their [low, and are thrown into tho cooler re- gions of the atmosphere. It may often be noted, that while heavy rain is fall- ing on tlie mountains, the sky is comparatively clear over the strait to tie eastward. From this circun.'stance the triangular area of low land forming the north-eastern part of Graham Island is not subject to an extremely heavy rainfall, and would appear to be well suited to agriculture but for the dense forest covering, which, at the present time, it will not pay to remove. Grazing Larula. The Hudson Bay Company have a post at Masset, •Canadian Oeographical Surrey, page 42. whiTt', for Hi'Vtral years, cattle have lHng, exccj)t on tho mountains. In the winter of 1H77 7H, no snow fell on the low lamls. The whole of the northern |>ortion of (Jraham Islaml seems better adajtti'd for cultivation than any other cqinilly large area of the whoie group. Mitri'liiiuil's Disrownrs. In August, 17'.U, Cai)t. Marchand, a French navi- gator, arrive at Cloak Ihiy, in the ship Stiliih, a ves- Hel built by the wealthy house of liaux, of Marseilles, expressly for a cruise to the north-w(>st (u>ast ami around tho world. Tho .S'o/iWc was a ship of 300 tons, fitted in tho most complete manner f4U- a scientific as well as a commercial voyage. She was commanded by (!apt. Etienno Marchand, assisted by two Hocond captains, who would rank in tho naval servico of tho present time as First Lieutenant and oxooutivo of- ficer and Second Lieutenant and navigator, or sailing master. One of those second captains was Pierre Masse, and tho other was Prosp-jr (Jhanal. There wore also throe Lieutenants, two Sugreons, Koblot and Rognior, tl roe volunteer otticorH, who would now rank as ensigns, and u ship's cionipany of thirty-nino, making a total of fifty persons. Tho slii]i carried an armament of two nine-pound howitzers; four four-pounders and four swivels; and was furnished with small arms and ammunition in ample ({uantity for the number of nutn and artillery she carried. The expedition was to circumnavigate tho globe, and was tho second voyage round tho world that has boon performed by the French; and, if tho observations of the oflicors wore as iu;curate in every place th ly visited us I have found thom to bo as re- gaids Qu(;eii Charlotte Islands, they will be found equally r«)liable, for the published account of tho visit to those islands is a simple and faithful exf)osition of every fact, and a picture drawn from nature of men and things, seen without prejudice and without system. Cloak Bay. On aniving off Cloak Bay, says tho narrative,* tho barge was dispatched under command of Capt. Clianal, accompanied by Surgeon Roblot and two other officers, in order to visit the bay, and ascertain whether it c(jntainod good anchorage and was a safe harbor. Cupt. Chaual sounded the bay hi different parts; he found from eighteen to thirty fathoms over a bottom of soft rock and shells, in other places white sand, and sometimes small pebbles. This bay, which is tt league in depth, by a width somewhat smaller, is perfectly sheltered from the north, south and eatit quarters; but is entirely open to winds from tho west- ward. The mouth of Cox's channel, or Parry Passage, MarclinnirH VciyaKeB. 2 Tolame«, Lundun — Longman St UeA«. FaternoKtor Kow, Strand, lail. I i.Hc'nni-: ox qthhs miAHurrrt: /.sv-ja'/av, wliicli ii|ii>iiH iiit4> tlu' l)fiv, IH not mom tlimi tliifc (|iiiul Hafo to aiiclior tlir SiJiilf, wliicli wiiM ill tini ofHii^, laying; olf ami on, iiiuUt caHy wiil; lint with liin partv ho went iihIioio imil mad*; maiiv oliHtirvatioim, wlnVli I will not horn nH-onnt, Imt fol- low him down tlii! luiiiHt iih far iih linnnoll Bound, ho liftvinn lioon diroctt^d l>y Capt. Marchand to make a ininntc oxamination of tlio hIioios liotwoon Parry or Cox'h l'asm4{o and llnniioll Honiid, whilo tho Hhip would pit'k up his party aftor tho oxamination of that part of tho ooaHt was iMimplotod. On tho '2Stli of AiiKUHt, 17'.)1, tho loiif; boat, undor Cnnt. (UiaiitU, with twontv days' provisions on board, ftnci a full orow, loft tho sdij) at 7 o'clock in tho morn- iu({ and madosail toward tho coast of which sho was to make a minutti oxamination, liotwoon tho two jioints tixod for tho limits of her cruiso. As Caiit. Dixon, who oxnlonul tlioso islands in 17H7, liati touchod at no harlior, and traded rapidly undor sail, with the difforent lands that inhabit the wosttirn ihoros, it was out of his power to make it known tor purposes of navigation; but tho survey which (!apt. Clianal miido of tho harbors ho discov- ori'd cm tlio v/ost coast of Graham Island is described with no loss intolligonco than correctness, and his do- Hcription fnniishes a series of sailing directions which merit tho greatest confidence, and will be very useful to the navigators who may be induced tt) visit tliis coast. The long boat lauded in i)!} dog. 47 min. which is about ten miles south of Susk, or Fred- rick Island. Fruin this place the coast forms a great bight, in which Capt. Clianal was in hopes of discov- ering some fine harbor. He ranged along the north- ern shore, and about two miles from the |K)iut where he landed, discovered a creek, Olard'M Cri-ek, Haifa league in length, and three or four cables' length wide — as a cable's Icn^^th is 120 fathoms or 720 feet, it gives tho width of this creek, at its entrance, some 2,500 foot, more or loss, Tho bottom is of fine sand, with a depth of water from twelve to twenty fathoms. It is terminated by two sandy beaches, and n rivulet discharges itself on tho south shore where tho lonf| boat landed. As ho saw no sign of this crook having been explored by Europeans, Capt. < 'haiial called it Otard's Creek, from the name of one of his friends. This creek, although open to winds from the south and south-west, nevertheless affords good anchorage and good shelter; for ever}where the coast hero seems level, and appears in no part to haTe been buffetted by the sea; the country which surrounds it is of middling height, but inland the hills are niueh more lofty; in short it was thought that a ship might lie here in Miifily. On h aviiig Otard's Creek, Capt. Chanal steered for an opening which appiuied to the simth-east half south, about four miles ulV. He at first ranged along tho coast at a suitable distaneo, leaving on tho star- iKiard hand a small island wl-.ieh is t.rniinated sea- wi.rd, by a iioiiit of low rocks on wliich the sea was breaking; the leiul constantly indii^atod a rock) Init- toni. and depth of water of from fifteen to twonty-fivo fathoms. Port ImiiIh or Alhlow Ihnj. When Cant. Channal had run a litth- more than a leagMo since his departure from Ot.ird's ( -rook, ho found liiniwtlf ut the opening of a channel of modorato breadth, into which the long boat entor»?d. Tho bay or harbor to which the channel led, appeared to bo of considerable extent; tho bottom continued to \w rocky, and the depth of water from twenty-five tfiv«< thriKt or four HliipH, wliicli m'mUt li«> tli< ut luiclmr, and with mi rxccllfiit iMittoiii, it ulTurtlH tli<> licHt nf HliultiT. Tlio Moii M iiKrfi'ctly HiniHitli iiiul it iH ho uoiii|)lot<*ly luii(l-l(N'kttil, tliut lit III) tiiii)> ouii l)ii> wntor Imi it}(itHtll^tll prfHriilH no duuKorH, and elowt to itn Hliorcn, wliii'L ni't> IhiM, '\n n cunmditriihio depth of wiitor. At tho tiiiii> of taking Uio uiMHi olm««rvation, tlii> wtmt point of Hiiipiih Ih- laud, or NuHto, for wliich tho lioiit wuh Htoonn^, lioro Rotith 1)v wuHt lit till* diHtiiiK'o of two h'ugucH; Iit> con- tiuiiod fiiH coiirHi*, mid iit liiilf-pnHt 1 o'chx-k, v. m., \\v doulih'd tho woHt point of Hippiili Ixhind, wliicli iio hoiuuUmI vory oKimily, mid nriM-oodi'd to oxuiiiini' tho chminol which HopiiriitoH it trom tlio iiuiin hind of tlio larff<> iHhind ; hut tho tido whicli whh ooniiiiu out of it and tho wind tliat was Iduwing down it, drovo tho long lH>at viohuitly liiuik to tho Houtliward, and at half {iftHt 3 p, M. ho diwovorod tho Sdiilc Htanding in for he land. Ho Htooroil to join hor, and at 5 o'clok r, u. he got on iMiiird, and Capt. Marehand Htood for tho ontraneo of Barclay Hound, on Vancouvor IhIiuhI, on luH way to China. There in no locord of any other navigator piiHHing through the channel which Hepariitt>H NohIo IhIiuui from Qraham, nor has any nioution heen niiulo in any of the publinhed workn on Qnoon Cliarlotto iHlandH, of thiri channel or of Skaloo Inlet; it any white man haH ever explored them, it wiih prohahly Homo recent adventurer iu nearch of coal or gold, who Ihih not made his diHCoveries known to tile public, and I think that I am the firut one who haa called public attention to this fine inlet which, I believe, upon a further exam- ination, will be found of importance to the commercial interest of the Province. I will here leave Marehand, and return to my camp at Kioosta, where one of my olgoctH had l>een to ob- tain reliable information regarding tho fiHlierieH, and of the ShIi which abound in this vicinity. Fish. While at MiiHsett I saw a very fine variety of sal- mon, called by the natives Bwagan, (0. Kria) which though small, are very fat and fine flavored. This variety, which are taken in the spring, and the hump back salmou during the summer, ana the dog salmon in the fall, witli a very fine flavored salmon trout, seem tu be the only varieties taken iu Massott In- let, but I did not learn that they are taken in sufii- cient quantities to warrant the oRtablishment of a cannery on the inlet or at Virago Sound. I collected a number of specimens of young cod (Gadua tnorrhua), fi'om two to three inches long, showing that M&ssett Inlet is one of the breeding grounds of the tnie cod. Mr. McKenzie had a email qaantity of the adult cod which he hod salted "in kench,' a fisherman's teim for a mass or a pile. I ate some of thoue fish and found them quite equal to Eastern cod, and far superior to the Pacific cod cured in San Francisco, showing that codfish, when cured near where they are caught, are much better than when allowed to remain a long time in a vessel's hold. The cod are very plentiful on the west side of Qneen Charlotte Islands, but the Haidas do not care for uem. Their principal food fish is the halibut whicl. abound, and are taken by the Indians in enormocM quantities; they do not, as far as I coold ascertain, ever go fishing expressly for cod, and when they do catch them while fishing for halibut, they are quite willing I do not nn'olliM't ttiil iliii'tl liko iiiil- < M ill si'liloii, iMiok till 1 killdit. oil. to diMpoMi of thoni to tho wliit«Mi. III! iiiMtiiiu f Mfcinu fodlisli sliriM iliiit or Htiliiion, ill tm-t tiic llni.l tlioin wlii'ii liny have ii plenty mI Bliuk L\nl. Tho fish wliii'h tliov foriiioily pii/od for Ihoii mid took uroiit iiiimiti'tioM of for tliiit pnrpoKc, iiro the xkil, or liliiok I'od. In foinifr yoiiiH, wlion tho IIiiidtiH woro at viiriaiii'o with tho tiiltoH of tho iniiinlmid, tlioy di-jtoiidod on tho nkil liN||in^' for tlioir niipply of groiiHo fiir food, for, iiltlioii^h wIiiiIom iiro plnilv ulioiit Onoon Chailotto ImIhihIh, mid in all the iiilotH. tho HaidiiH iiovor iittai'k Ihoiii, liko tho MnkuliM of (lapo Flattory, or tho triboH of tho womI ooast of Viiiioouvor iHliind. Of Into yoai-H, howovor, tho MiiiilaM have oli- tiiiiiod thoir principal Hiipply of greuso from Fort Hiinprton, or at Niiiw Kivir, mid i'oiiHO(|iit(iitly tiio itki) finhing Iihh boon iilmont iibaiidoiiod. Ah thin linh htiH liittorly iittriii'tod iiiiirh notioo Inith in Victoria and in WiiHiiingtoii, occitHJoiiod by hoiiio which I brought from Qiioon (Miarlottc iHlun'dH and iiitrodiicod to oiintorn notico through tho UnitiMl HtatoH Finh CoiiimisHion, I will now dcHcribo tho nkil, or black cod, an it is pi)|)uliirly toriiiod, tiio Hciontitlc nanio of which in Anoplo/Hniin Jlmtnin. My naino has boon inoiitionod in connoction with the black cod as having diw^ovorod tlioiii; this is in- correct. Thoy woro known to tho oiirliost iiavigntorH on tho north-woHt coant, and by oinployooH of tho Hud- Hon Bay Conipmiy, and other whiti^ |>or«onH for niaiiy veai-H. I have known of tlioin at Capo Flattery, WaHhiiigtim Territory, and oaten of them nioro than sixttHin years ago; tho only credit which bolongH to mo is having boon the first to iiitrodnco thoni to the public in a marketable Hhapo. 1 have had froijuoiit correHpondence and pei-Honal iiitorviows with Akxan- dor C. Anderson, Ew|., FishorioH limjMH'tor for Brit- ish Columbia, previouH to my visit to tho Queon Charlotte IslandH last Hummur, with regard to the black cod, and had sent speciiiuuiH to WashiiigUm from Ca|N) Flattery, with description of thoir rare ex- cellence, six years ago. Mr. Andoi-Hon, also, in his re- iiort to the Minister of Marine and Fisheries, Ottawa, 880, niakeH mention of these fish from informiition given lam by Mr. McKenzie, of Masmttt; and I haHM, i^, lut h'hIim] Iiv Ml MiK.'iizit' ill Ml ,\iiil< thiiii'h rt'|M»rt: "i>f|itn of wuirr, ilillirllltv >>r Ml|i'l|iilllif< I'ltllMCH, Mtl'iili({ Clll'- ri'iitM, uml iK'i-i'MNil V >it' ntlin wi'iitlicr," nil nfwliicli cull Im< (ivrtrciiiH- liv wliiti' iiH'ii, willi the IiiimIitii iiDiiiiN iiml ii|i|iliiiii<'<'H till' I'lHliiiii^, iiM III iiriiHcnt iii|ii|iti'il ill till' iioi'tli Atliiiitif ilrip Hcii tiHlitirioH. At MiiMHftt I wiiM iiifiiiiiii-(l Ity Mr. Mi'Krii/.ii« that I I'liiilil iiriili'ililv iilitaiii Hiiiiir iif till' skil, lit Hkiil)<- ^iiti', uiiil I'll my anivtil tliiii' I iirniii^xil witli Mr. Amlri'W Mi'Oii'pir, iif tlir Skitli'Kiitt' Oil ('oiiipiiiiy, \nI|i) HI'llt 11 fl'W lllllillllH til till! WI'Ht CllllHt to (illtcll OMliir. 'I'lirv li'ttllliril ill tlllt'H or fiilir illlVH, lirillK" iii^' iiliiiiit I'jri nkil, uliirli, iiiiil.'r my tlin-rtioii iiiiil III rHiiiiiii hii|ifrvisiiiii, I liii.l Hjilit likf i-oil, iiml Hiilti'd III II liit|^i> viit with |ilciity iif nit. My tirnt intention wiiH til iiiirk tlii'iii ill liiirnlH, i.ko |iirkl<'(l nhIiiihii, hh I tlioii^lit, tViiiu tlirir lii'iiiK hu <>\i>i>i'iliii^ly fut, t!'iit tlii-v wiHiliI lK>('(imt> rusty, liki> iiiu<-ki'i)>l m Hiilmon, wlittii i'X|iiiH)'(l til till' iiir iil'lrr Ihiviii^ I ii pickloil. Ciiiil. Hriiiy Millt-r iil'tiii' Htciun'r M'/i/ri/o/r, nn ox- |i(irit'ii I liHlitiriiiiin, licloii^iiii^ to Nrwlmi'y|iort, Mil' - Miu'liiiMi'ttK, mill Hovoriil otiiiii's in tlin t'liiploy of ilui Skiili'^iiti' (Niinpiiiiy wl'o witc hIso iu'ciistoiiit'il to tlio miickrii'l t' iliiii)^ of till' Kiiist, fully (^oiiicidtMl in my vii'ws; liiit I could j;i't no Imrrcls, nor wum there a coopi'i tit Skidcgiitc, mid I liiid to think of some plmi to mt the HhIi to Victoria, wlieie I intended to piw^k tliem to Heiid to WiiHliin^'toii. I knew the method udoptcl in MiiHHiicliUMetts for preptirin^ liiililnit for Hinokin^, mid I deteriiii:ied to iidopt thiit plan iis the only method I could think of, iiltlioii^h I felt in doiilit iiliout the tiHli reiichin^ Victoria in ^ood (;onditioii, ah Klierilllelit HO till! fish first in ih<' vat where they wero Htilted, it was an untried exneritiieiit so far iis the nkd lire liiid tlie fish first rinsed in tliu picklti eoiicerned. I tliev Iiml niaih then jiiled, skin side up, in a loii^ nih*, iind on top of four ilays under tliis pressui'i! which miido them firm, them wen press out all the pic owed to rtMuiiin em weri! laid Hpru(!u plunk and heiivv stoncH to I the pK.'kle; tlu^y were alii ider tiii and easy to limidle. 1 then ]iiick(^d them in boxes, with dry salt, iiuttiiit; twenty fisli in each box. On mv arrival in Victoria, I hiid the fisl. exmuinod by otlicers of the Hudson Buy t'on»|)any and other oom- neteiit judges who iidvised me to stuid thoni to AViisliiiij^ton without njpiickinj^ thoin, which I did, mid they were reci^ived by the Unittnl States Fish Commission in tlu' very best condition. Prof. Biiird at once sent ii box to the Fish Bureim of Boston, who tested them in various ways, and pave thoir unmiinious opinion as to tlnsir suporior excellence. Home of tlu) hsh wore freshened and smoked, and in that condition are pronounced a j^reat delicacy. So threat is the int«»reHt felt in the eastern cities, that Prof. Baird writtss me ho has urgent letters from Bos- ton enquiring whether the black cod can be obtained in quantity, and stating that a ready market awaits tlu!m if they can be delivered in the easteni cities at a reiisaiiable price. The (juestion having been satisfactorily solved ab»mt the bhu^k cod keeping in dry salt as 1 packed them, is of great value to poor settlers on the north- west coast, where the spruce abounds from the Co- lumbia river to Alaska. All that will be required to j'lire the fish and get them ready for market, are salt and nails; the boxes being maiJi>/x>iiKitiiiifirlii, or black co( the('lallam; the /y^M/iofc, of theMakali; the HfMliiiit>fr,o( of the Nootka and KuytNpiot; the Skil, of the Haidu; the Ku'iihu'ltlt, of Knight Inlet, et<'., are found from Monterey to the Arctic not fish for them as articles of com- merce or for a regular article of food as thoy do for the halibut— they use them as articles of luxury, and whenever sold to the whites they command the high- est price; the usual price at Neah Bay, Cape Flat- tery, for a black cod or " beshow," as it is called by those Iiiihaus, is ime dollar. The HiVida is the only tribe I know of who take these fish in auT quan- tity, and as their method is peculiar; I will uoscribe it fully. Their fishing lines are made of the stems of the giant kelp of the coast (^iereonjattH, Hooker), wliich, commencing at the loot of a size about one-fourth of an inch in (Yiametor, gradually increase till they ter- minate in a pyriform hollow bulb on the surface of the water, from which extends a tuft of louceolate leaves. The Indians cut these sterna close to the bottom with a simple instrument formed of a V shaped branch, across the smaller portion of which a knite blade is secured, this is lowered over a kelp plant in twenty or tliirty fathoms of water, and the stem easily cut off by a sudden pull of the line at- tached to the cutter. These stems are then soaked in fresh water to ez- tra(!t the salt, then stretched and dried in the smoke which toiigheus them, and makes them exceedinglv strong. The pieces are then knotted together till they form a line one hundred fathoms or more in length, and are then neatly coiled up for use. The hooks differ from any fish hook I have seen. They are made of the knots of hemlock limbs cut out from old decayed logs. These are split in pieces of suitable size, and whittled to ^t

kil hook, resembles the Ic af^itndinal section of a goose egg The lower oortiot. i 'i these hooks are curved inward to form u. bari), r d when not in use the two ends of the hook a»o fwrgned together by a piece of twine, which is alru imd to tie on the bait When the hook is to be usti.i, the two parts of the hook are separated by means of a stick or peg, which the fish knocks out when he takes the bait, and the two ends of the hook close together and hold him fast ■ //)' ./J I/AW (;. .s'H.i.V. tliti |H'K HoiiU t<) tlu^ Kiirfiu-o »ii(l iiulicHtt'H t In- (linii tiiitt lii< liAM cHii^lit u HhIi. Tli)< HJiikcr in itiidtlicr iii^iiiiouH cotitrivHiicf; it jm u liir^ti' Htoni' wfi^liiii^ from twdvo to tlflo-n ixhiihIm iiikI n Hiimllor i>n<> to wrvi' ah h tri|i|iiiiK Htoiic; tli« line Ih firmly woiiml iirouixl tlii'H«< Htoiitm with iimnv tiiriiH ar|) tiick) iititiiiixr n Higniil olHccr rollH np n i\im in ii Itnll anil tnckH ii lii^ht of tlio liahurd iiiiilrr a turn, wliifh, wlion piilit'il oiitHotH tli(< Hii^ fror, ho when tlin Indian fiHli«>rnian tliinkH, fmni tlio nuinl>«T of tloiitinj I><<^ that h«t liaM enough tlMh, h>' |>iiI1n out thi' loop lif UH lino, tho MtoncN lu't'oinit loom>n<'(l and fall o\il, ami \u' IuuiIh in hiri line r<>lii>.'i>(] of their woi^ht. The HaidaH fr«>(]U(M)tly put on on«) hundred liookH to a mu^lt) linx, which at' ' '<•< a trawl, and ho plonti- fnl ar«« tho l>hu-k cod that o: ( from lifly to Hovi'iity- fivo aru hauhtd in at oni* time. Tlio hait UH«>d, hi-oiuh t<)l)»» anything handy, aa t'u« nkll in a K'***«'dy ffodor and will tako eithur fr< : h honing, Miuitl or a Htrip of thu whitu Hkin from i lalihutH lu'lly. Tho Indian, liuwovflr, hiiH i>iionii«>H to cotitttnd with; ono of the moHt fonuidahlf Ih thu ground shark, or uiirmftMh an lh« nailoi-H call thoni, wlii>-li >vill uiit otT tho hodioH of a whole linu full offish, l(>aving only their hculH; there in a Hniall fish of the euttoid or twulpin vaiititv (lihjmait drrhiutUH — Niikiiiii, hihiwfo — ), Haida whieii will Hteal the bait and Hometimea gel.i eanght. DogfiHh alito are at tiniea very trouhloHonie. When- ever the Indian in Hure of the preacnee uf thene puHta, ho BoeH to another place to fiHli. Ah the hookn for iXwakd differ in HhafV) from thoae U8ed by tho Haida for halibut, I inquired of the Indians the reaRon, and wac informed that tiuiy do not get fast to the bottom so eahily aa their common hooKH or 08 the steel hooks of the whiti>H. Whether this is BO or not I have had uo means of judging, but presume, as tho Haidas are tho most successful in that kind of fishing, they probably have some rea- son for a«lopting this pecmiar shape. Of tlio method adopted by the Haidas to extract oil from the »kil, I cannot siwak positively, as I had no opiM>rtunity for observation, but I prosnme it does not differ fiom that adopted at Naas River for the extraction of oil from the eulachon, or the method of the Makahs for extracting oil from dogfish livers, which methods are by employing heat; either boiling in kettles, or by means of not stones placed in some large recepta- cle like a canoe or large wooden box; but as my desire is not so much to speak of the black cod for their oil producing qualities, as how to obtain them in suffi- cient quantity for market, I will pass to the consider- ation of this latter question. I have nhown that the Haida method of capturing the black cod is by the '.rawl, a long line to which many baited hooks are attached, winch are Hunk to the iMittom in very deep water, from forty tt» (tne hundred fathunis ; experience having proved, that with the skil as with the true cod, the largest fitth are invariably found in the deepest places. I do not think, however, that trawl tiHhing on the west coast of Queen Charlotte Islands would be attended with saccesB if coniuion steel hooks are used, as the bot- tom is rocky, with a deal of coral formation, and common steel hooka would l)e very liable to get fast, and thereby occasion the loss of the line and gear. It has been suggested to me by Joseph Spratt, Esq., of Victoria, who takes a great interest in the devel- opment of the black cod fishery, that perhaps steel htNik* ran In- niK form iif till' liHiilii liiHik, wliii'li \\<>nlt fimt to thi* Ixittoni, iiini wmilil Ih- iiuiti' iii> I'lfii-tivc an till* Indian form. I fully it^rre Mitli Mr. .Spratt in tliin iiiatlcr, Slid lii>|)«> to m'v tlic rxpt'riiiii'nl tric<|; tliixciin ciixily In' iIhim* on iiiiy nf tlic nraliii^ ki'Iuhmi t'fH wliii'li rriiihc fur fur unil i«t tlii' t'litriiiii'f of Kiica Strait, itiin utTtlii' ImrlHirM mi tlic wcKt foawt of Van- couver Uliiiid. iMiriiig f">my or calm wcatlirr, when tlic vckki'Ih cannot ^o to tlic ptruliii^ ^roiiiiiln, tliry nii^lit iH'ciipy tlicir time pnitltaMy l>) hettiii^ trawU in the deep witter nlT the Mtriiit and w< f>t coiiKt litir liori*. and, iii> every oi'imoner Uiken a crew of liuliaiiH, either .Makali, Nittinat oi Clyotpiot, they would al wityH liave Miiue one or more aiiion^ tliein mIui could point out the liei«t localitiex fur the lilark cud. This would lie an inexpeiiMive iiietlier by the lihliermen of tintt country and is nititl to have Ih-cii introduced into Norway about KlSo, and are e.xteiiKively uned in the grj'at winter cod tinherieH that ,ire carried on at the I.ofoten iHlandH. ThcHC iKiaiidN iire HJtualed mi the west count of Norway, north of tin- .\relic Circle; an Htrnwii. (fill nets have alHo long leeii used in tho Newfoundianductio:i among the American fishermen. lie accordingly sec'.ired a set of the Norwegian nets, which wore sent to dHoucester and there tested by the cnployeosof the Commission, the nets varying in length from fifty to eighty fathoms long and two fathoms deep. Thu first experiments made were not satisfactory, owing chiefiy to the fact that the net was found far t ( S. Finli (!r<' Hciit l»y I'roffHHor Iliiinl to Iit-rliii for tli»; piir- |Hl^t•. Tlif rt-rtiilt wiirt, tlmf nctrt of rccjiiisite utrt'iigtli w( If iii)iv flu; AiiifricHii tit't mill twiiit," I'oinjMiiiy of hiisUiii, for tlir Fisli CoiiniiiHHioii. mill ill tiie full of IH^O, Ciiiit. {'lv»r^^'^^ 11. Ma:tiii, of (lloucerttor, Mhh8., iiiiiHttT i>r till' hrliooiifr Aortlurii EiKjle, fitted out witli tlimii for tlif winter tiHlitirifrt for coil off Cape Ann, iind in IpKwieii Itiiy. ("iiptHin Miirtin ln'ifiin fiKliin^ with ni't« NoveniluT 'J7tli, 1>SH(», tinii lip to tin- 'JOlli of Jmiuiiry, 1881, had liiiiiilit lll.OOO poiiniirt of cod. None of tlie trawl li>lii'rs tool< more than one-tliird of tliat miioiint, lliiiii^h fiHliin^ at the same piiwe. The netted fish are iar^jer tlian those canjiht on trawls, iiverafTing iliiriii^ the first week's fishiiif/, twenty-three pounds apiece, hut no biiiall fish, such as are fivipieiitly taken on trawls, and can he sold only at a reduced price, as the small fish pass through the meshes of the ffill net. (hi a trip ending .lamiary lltli, ii5,<)l)l) |)oU!ids of (••)d were taken hy t]\v Ninth int. Knyh., 8,()(M) pounds of which were caught in a sinj^le morning;. Two other vessels, which were ahseiit the same length of time, tisiiiiifj; at the same place with trawls, girt only 4.(» and 8,()()() pounds respectively. Since that time she has made another trip, taking the sanuMimount, !{•'),()()() pomids in foiirdays' fishing, taking 18,(MM) pounds in one day. On this day the schooner Christie ('iMiiphell of I'ortsmouth, N. II., set ten trawls, (each trawl having 1,000 hooks) close to the nets. The 10,000 hooks caught 2,000 iwiinds of fish to the 18,000 pounds taken in the nets. Since these facts were made known, ipiite a lively interest has hecn manifested in fishing communities, and numy vessels hotli of the shore and hank fleet, are lieing sujiplied with tliis kind of apparatus for the cod fishery. These nets are set and hauli-d mi any part wliere cod are now taken. They are set in the following manner from the hoat in which tlnv are taken from the fishing schiKiner: The anchor for the net is first thrown overlwiurd, having a line fifty fathoms long attached to it ; when 25 fathoms of the line are paid out, the hiioy line is lient to it and huoy and line thrown over and tlie remainder of the anchor line, the end of which is made fast to one end of the net which follows ne.xt. When the net is run out, an- other uO-fathom line is attached and with an anclior at its end is thrown over and finishes tlie work, the hoat all the time drifting or heiiig pulled with the tide. These nets are set parallel with the flow of the current, ami when hoth anchors are down, remain in one position whether the tide he ehh or flood ; the nets are weighted with sinkers of stone or other ma- terial which keep them on the hottom at any requir- ed depth, and the floats keep them in a vertical posi- titin, tlius forming a wall at the hottom of the water. The nets are usually set in the afternoon, and allowed to remain setting for several days, unless for some reason the vessel leaves the fishing ground, experi- ence having proved that most fish are taken at night. Each morning the nets are uiie smaller than when tniwls are used, the jirofits of the trip would he much greater. These nets could he un- ck trees, luid tlie heavy heiu'h ^ass- extends far into the timber; hut the gent'ral apjiear- nnc« is of a rock-l)ounr, is W(jrtliless to a degree, and shows the jjeneral character of the extreme north- west coast of (irahum Island. At this place I saw drift logs and p'mks of Cal- ifornia Redwooth, aftt'r a tediidi.-* and nangennis canoo voyage of twenty days from Mansett. As Skitlegate channel and inlet are fully described by Dr. Dawson in his rejMirt before alluded to, it will be only necessary for nie to stiite. that I found his n'|H>rt correct. Hesides the harliors and inlets I have named, which are not laid down on the chart, I discovered that Ihick Point, of Vancouver, as shown om the Adiiii- rality Chart, is a |)oiiit or peninsula, and not an island as the chart shows, but tlietc is an island three miles due south of Muck i'oint in the entrance of Skidegate ('liannel, named Ivwigets, ami some rocks inside of it ban; at high water. I also dis('overe«l an inlet making in on the north shore of Skidi-gate (Miaiinel west of the North Arm, as laihore, I'oiisideretl tluMii, witlnjiit any proof, a« can- niiials. I can safely assert that there is no evidence, imr is tlieira scintilla of reliahle evidence, thattlie na- tives of the Northwest coast ever were camiihals. or ever fcasii'd oil human flesh like the natives of the Fiji and other South Sea Islands have done. I can truly say in the lanifuaf^e of Flenrien : "I am not an a|K>lofrist for saviiKc j)e()ple; never have I fallen into ecstacies be- fore the mill of nature; never have I participated in the opinion of certain philosophers who have racked their imii^iiiatioiisand put in play the illusion of elo- quence, for the purpose of showing him t4> us aa the most excellent of men. I am not liere examining whether man he good, or whether lie he wicked through his nature, nor what he might have hjst or gained in the state of grejit societies." Hut let us not judge too precipitately of the character or real worth of the natives of Queen Charlotte Islands, or what they are capable of doing, by tlu' representatives of that tribe to be met with on \ ictoria streets. The limits of an evening's reailing will not afford me time to say more up>oii this subject at present, but in my oHicial report of my visit and observations made last summer on Queen ('harlotte Islaii