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305

NOTICRS RESPECTING THE HOTANY OK CER- TAIN COUNTRIES VISITED BY THE RUS- SIAN VOYAGE or DISCOVERY UNDER THE COMMAND OF CAPT. KOTZEBUE. By An.

DE ChAMISSO.

[ Transiiikd from tlw. Gcrinan Edition of the Voyage.']

THE PIIILIIMMNE l.sLKS.

Thk henutiful woods which clotlic the inoiintaiiis and valleys oi' t\u"ni ishuuls with the most luxuriant j^reen, descend also to the vciy brink of the sea, in groves ol' Mamjk Trci s {Rhizo- fi/iorn), and some other species. The transitory <rlnnce which we were enabled to gain of these forests iVom tlie public route, and tlie short distance to which we penetrated their recesses, are insuflicient to enable us to describe them jiroperly. Fig 'J'nrs appeared to be llie prevailing kind of wood: some species snpjiorting tiiemselves as strong trees by their singularly interwoven stems and running roots, by whicn they clasp the rocks and twine over them. Other plants, of very slender stalks, raise themselves to an astonishing height, and while their leafy summits are lost above llie leaty roof of the grove, tlieir sinijular fruit is seen bnrstinir from the lower part of their trunks. Some species retain a frutescent habit, while otiiers climb. We missed in the woods the beautiful forms of the Avacin Trees, with their variously pinnated leaves; but nuincrt)us other genera of Leguminous Plants here exhibit tlieir peculiar characteristics. The Ferns, (]•, riic.darly the arborescent ones,) the Climbers, the Orchiileu', \-'iicli, in I3ra/il, form almost self-supported gardens in the air. lightly attached to the sujnmits of the trees, are here <.itl>cr entirely wanting, as the Cacti and Hromrliacecr, or appeal in very diminished numbers. The character which Nature wears is of a nuich tamer kind. '"he species of Palm are more numerous than in St. Catherine's, many of them are but inconspicuous, and the slender prostrate liotamj is indeed the most wonderful of thcin nil, AnioM<;-t the Aroidoa- is the

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Pothos scandens, wliosc joiiili^d jfrassy stems and narrow foliage are seen creeping u|) tlic trunks of trees.

The graceful liamhoo Cane grows abundantly on the banks of brooks, where its thickly c'ustered stems arc often waved by the wind, which causes these hollow reeds to emit a great variety of agreeable sounds. This plant attains its extreme height in the short course ol" one rainy season; during the following years it becomes woody, and shoots out lateral stems, but without any increase of size. 'I'lie young sprouts are eaten like asparagus. There are several species described by Loureiro as natives of this place, but not having seen their inflorescence, we could not ascertain this point.

The plains consist alternately of woods and savannahs; but nothing can be poorer than the vegetation of the latter; consisting chiefly of two species of grass, which grow about eight feet high, and probably ripen their seeds in autumn. There are a very few dwarf plants, mostly of the leguminous tribes, and these grow under the shade of an arborescent species of lianhiiiiu whicli appears singly at considerable intervals. These savannahs are often set on (ire, both to prepare them for cultivation, and that they may produce younger vegetation lor the cattle.

A particular species of Miisn [Bnnuna or Pisaii;/), ol which the fruit is not esculent, is cultivated for the sake of its fibrous stem, and considered preferable to many others. The filaments (being the long vessels of its peduncle) extend the whole length of the stem, which is generally about eight feet; and they are of various degrees of fineness, according to their outer or inner situation. Thus the same plant aflbrds the fibres of which are made the excellent anchor cables, almost exclusively employed by the .Spanish vessels here, and that more delicate flax which is used in the manu- facture of the fine striped cloths of which the cleanly people of these islanils make very elegant shirts.

Another I'afiii grows here, {Palmn dc Cabcllo nraro :) it yields a strong, black, coarse fibre, nmch esteemed for ropes and cables, and far preiirable to what is obtained from the Rofniiff, which, though employed by the Chinese ami many

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row

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reat pine

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of the islaiuleis of the Pacilic Ocean, is considered as of little value, and not to be depended upon. Tiiis I'alw 'Da, on tlie contrary, is much cultivated, anil, with the liaitilnM) and liotuiuj, constitutes one of the most useful plants of this part of the world.

THE MARIANNE ISLANDS.— OUA.IA. ^

This island is well wooded, its Flora seems rich, and the vegetation luxuriant. Forests clothe its steep descents to the sea shore, and in several sheltered spots the Manyb' Treen {llliizopliora) actually dip their pendent boughs in the flood. Nothing can exceeil the uelicions perfume which was wafted to us across the waters, while we were sailing about in search of an anchorage. The Orange Trees grow wild, as do many other kinds of fruit trees, memorials of a once floinishing cultivation. Several species of plants formerly introduced here, now vie in luxuriance with the indigenous inhabitants of the soil; such as the \w'\c\fAy Limonkt trijuliata, and the Jiidiijo Shriih [Iiidigofern tinctorut), the use of which even is now unknown. The liremlfrnit, C'ocon, and Pisaiiy {Banana), are most abundant; the Mango {Mangijira indiva) grows well where it was jjlantcd, but does not become naturalized. Of the various species of plants which prevail on the continent of Asia and the islands of the Pacific Ocean, we only found the liarringtonia spcciosa ami Casnarina e(juisetijhlia. We wholly missed the forms of plants so characteristic to New Holland, the Protean, Ejxicridea, Myrtles, and simple-leaved Acacias, On the other hand, we found most of those that jrovv at Radack, many of whicl" again were wanting at Li'i^on ; such as the Tacca pinnatifida, wliich, though a native ol" Cochin China and cultivated, does not ap})ear at Manilla. Two species of Pandamis and many kinds of Fig are natives of Ouaja.

RADACK, RALICK, REPITII-URUR, BOCillA.

The Flora of these islands is very scanty. On the range of Radack we foimd but fifty-nine species, including those that are cultivated. 'J'wenly-three of them, five being in

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308

cultivation, we liad before seen at O-Wailii ; and twelve, incliuling the Cocoa Tree, were collected at tlie Island Ronian/ofT, where we gathered in all but nineteen species. About twenty, again, we found at Guaja. Neither tlie Orange nor Cabbage Palm, both of which have, on doubtful testin)ony, been stated to grow on the Mulgravc Islands, could we find; nor learn any thing with certainty about then).

We do not iiowever believe that the vegetation of lladack is confined to the above-mentioned number of plants : but rather think that both on this island itself", and the groupe of which it forms a part, anil whicii we had not the opportunity of thoroughly investigating, many individuals may have escaped our search. Tiie southern islaiuls, in particular, which we did not visit, (Arno, Meduro, and Mille,) which have an older vegetation and much richer soil, are likely to produce many species which are wanting to the more northern and barren groupe. Vegetation appears on this chain of islands to have commenced in the south, and followed the course of the inhabitants, in n northerly direction.

Tiie most useful Palm found here is the common Pandaniis QV Screw Pine of the South Seas, {tf'ob.) It grows wild in liie most arid sands, where vegetation first commences, and enriches the soil by its numerous decaying loaves, which it throws oir in great nuni!<ers. In tin; moist lowlands of the richer islands, it thrives eq lally well, and numerous varieties of it are cultivated with care, being propagated by layers, and their fruit much imjiroved by culture. All of these, if increased by seetl, reassume the original characteristics of the parent species, the Kruan. More than twenty varieties are reckoned ; the dill'erence between them existing in the various outward form of their fruit, or its compound nature, or the number of se})arate kernels which it contains. The male tree is always called Digar, the wild female, Ertian ; each variety having a dillerent nan»e. Tiiat i)art of the iVuit which is used for food by the people of lladack, is by the natives of the Sandwich, Marcjuesas, and Friendly Islands, employed as an odoriferous and golden-shining garland. We nuiy hero remark that the genus Pniidanus particularly

retjuues bolanislsl no weigl cxpressl)! esculent [ lladack.

is compi aromatiJ

300

Ive, rtiul ties. Jtlic Itf'ul Us

L'll).

Ink

Jilt

of hy

)°c(|iiires slrict exiiiniiiutiuii, tis tlic chiiracteis thiil iiiosl l)otaiiisls Imvu used to discriiiiinate tlie various species are of uo weight whatever. Lourciro, in Iiis ]-'hrn Coc/iiiwh. expressly states that tlio fruit of I'. odoratissiiUHs is not esculent; but it constitutes the chief food of the |)eo|)le of Itadack. Each of the seeds of which this compound fruit is composed, contains at the base where it is affixed, an aromatic Juice. To obtain this, the fruit is first knocked to pieces with a stone, and then being chewed, the fibres are rejected from the mouth. The fruit is also baked in pits, as in the South Seas; not so mucli for the sake of eating it in this state, but that the Mogan may be prepared from it. This is an aromatic dry confection, which is carefully stored up for voyages. All the members of one or more families are employed together in making the Mogan. When the fruit lias been baked, its concreted juice is carefully scraped out with the edge of a nmssel-shell, then spread on some leaves over a gridiron and dried in the sun, cr by a gentle fire. The thin cake thus formed, is closely rolled up, and the roll ( 2atly wrapped and tied in the leaves of the tree. The almoi.xl of this fruit is pleasant, but being difficult to get out, it is often neglected. From the foliage of the Pandanus, the women of these islands prepare all sorts of mats, some to serve for their aprons, others with ornamented borders, and the coarser and thicker kinds which form the sails of their vessels, and are employed by them for bedding.

Next to the Vnnihinun, the Cocoa Tree {Ni) holds the second rank. Not only is its nut valuable as affording good oil, and forming a variety of utensils for domestic purposes, in which they carry their food and drink, but the fibres that surround the stem are employed for making cordage. The Pandanus gives food, and the Cocoa Tree the materials for iuivigation to these people. The manufacture of ropes is the labour of the men, and the first of the natives may be seen thus engaged. The fibres of tlie bark are cleansed and separated by maceration in pits of fresh water, and then spun. The wood of the old trees is reduced to powder, and formed into a paste with the juice ot the unripe fruit: thus prepared and

310

dressed in one ot the sliells, il is baked over the fire. Tlie cocoa-nut shells are the only vessels whicii these people possess for carrying water; they are placed in longish wicker baskets made on purpose, several being arrangcil side by siile, with the eyes of the nut njjwards. The Cocoa Tree is planted and propagated every where, both on tlic inhabited and uninhabited islands; but in most of the young plantations, the trees only bear fruit in the inhabited islands; where their lofty crowns are seen waving high in the air. J'he Cocoa Tree bears but very small nuts at lladack.

The liriatlfntit Tree {Ma) is not very connnon at lladack, and is only planted in the wet and closely inhabited islands. Old trees are however met with even on some of the poorer ones. Its wood, as well as its fruit, is valuable; from it are maile the keels of their boats; the other planks being chielly formed of buoyant wood, joined together with cords of the cocoa bark, and the interstices caulked with leaves of the Pantlanus. The Breadfruit Tree likewise yields a gum which is useful for diH'erent purposes. There arc many varieties of this tree, as is generally the case with all cultivated plants; those produced here do not vary much from tin; parent species; their iVuit is small, and the scedii in it fre- (|uently perfect.

An useful fibre is procured I'rom the rind of three dilferent species of jjlants, which grow wild, the jirincipul being liom a shrub of the Nettle family {Bocmeriaf'), called here the Aromti, and only found on the best moist soils. The threail which the Aroma alTords is white, extremely fine and strong. The Alahat ( 'Triiimfetta prociimbens, Forst.) is a creeping ))lant of the Tiliaceous kind; it is connnon, and, with the Cetsst/t/ia, covers the driest sands. From its brown bark, the material of the men's aprons is chiefly procured : they consist of stripes of bark hanging loose, anil sewed to a girdle of matting. The ornamental borders of the finer mats are also nuide of it. The fine white fibrous bark of the Hibiscus popuhieus (Lo) which we saw at Radack, but only on the groupe Aur, is used in the same way. Hopes are manufactured of this bark at the Sandwich Islands, and elsewhere.

311

Tlie

liossess I'askots I'l witli jlaiitud M and Jatioiis, tlidr Vi Trre

fidack,

aiicls.

looix'i-

it aiu

A nourishing iluur is obtiiincii from tliu tulicroiis rods ut Vacin iiiiiiuitijidd, wliicli grows hero plentifully; hul it does not appear to be in general use.

The dillerent species (A'.lrum, A. iscultntuin, iiimrorhizon, nnd saijitlijhliiun, as well as the linnana and the /l/iiza/ihora (jijinnorhizd, are severally cultivated, here and there, ou the various islands. The culture ol the Jioiiatia seemed to commence at Kaban ; but it was only at Aur that we saw it bearing fruit. The species o^ Annti iu)whcre meet here with the deep boggy soil that best suits them; indeed there is nothing growing spontaneously on these i>^lands which Ibrms an essential part of the food of the population.

Hesides these jilants, there are connnonly cultivated about their dwellings two of the rarest wild species, which are very ornamental ; a Sidd and a Criniini, whose sweet-scented lloweis, with tiiose of Giiittnrda sjHciosa, I'ol/ianKpriu incrmis, iii.d at Aur the J.vord coccineu (?) are worn in pretty garlands arounil the long coiled hair and in the ears of the poor natives of lladack, wlio arc distinguished by their general taste for elegant decorations and great fondness for perfumes.

The sea throws upon the reel's of lladack great trunks of /'/(■/ trees from more northerly countries, with the Palms and liam- IxHfS of the torrid zone. It thus supplies the wood necessary for navigation, while the iron found in the wrecks ol'Kuropa-an vessels affords another retpiisite article. The only instruments which they possess for working up the drift-wood are formed of the valuable metal thus obtained. In confirmation of the fact that much iron is thus procured, we saw a large piece of timber lying on the strand, with the iron nails still remaining, sticking in it, at a sheltered spot in Oldia, one of this groupe of islands. From the same source the natives obtain another treasure, a uselul kind of very hard stone, which is found in tlie roots and hollows of trees cast up by the sea. Iron and stone belong to the chieftains, to whom they are compelled to deliver these articles for a trifling remuneration, under pain of unishment.

The sea also wafts to these islands the fruits and seeds of nuuiy trees, of which the greater part are not indigenous.

\^c\yj- \-)-\^S.

'M2

Most ol'tliein iipiKiir still to he in a state tor vegetation, anil we linvc fre(|uently, wil'i many f,'oo(l wislies, connnitteil these presents to tlie bosom ol 'lie eaitli. Anionjr tliem we louml the fruit of that Pamlanu.' which only jri-ows in the western countries, and seeds of iiur^lngtoiwi spcriosa, Aleurilrs triloha, and otiier trees belonging to tiie general Flora of Polynesia, and which we Iiave met with near the Marianne Islands. The jfreater number of these seeds belony to the arborescent t)r climbing Le-ruminous I'lants, which grow plentifully everywhere between the tropics. Tiiosc of Guilandina liui are very common among them ; but we only saw the plant itself once, on one of the Leeward Islands. We observed that such seeds as are deposited by the waves on the reefs situated in tlie slieltered spots of the island, seem to vegetate more freely, being more pro- trctijd from the blasts, and finding a better soil than tliose that are thrown up on other parts of the island. Among the rejectamenta of the ocean are frc(juently seen round Pumice-stones, with masses of closely tangled Ca.isi/tha, similar to what the Zostern marina forms on some of our coasts, and which are called in France, on the shores of the Mediterannean, Pluttc de iiier.

THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

A variety of useful Palms from the Philippines, among them Pabua brara, Palma de Cahello mgro, &c., which, as well as the j)lants of the Pelew Islands, are cultivated here, give an idea of the richness of the Flora. Cap enjoys, with Pelew, the jirivilege of an elevated situation ; among its productions we find the Arccn Palm [Areca Catechu,) the Bamlfou, and three kinds of trees which grow on the mountains, from whose timber boats are built, for which purpose the Breadfruit tree alone is employed on the lower islands. The Aleurites triloba giows here also, and the Clore {CaryopliijUus aromaticus); the latter is not, however, esteemed, for the fruit is useless and bitter, and its whole appearance mean and ugly. The Orange, the Sugar-Cane, and lastly the Curcuma, all of which are produced at Ulea and the lower islands.

L-b

vbrive 111 on ibii ^' many partly ol groupe. and rid to be ii from t their di Maiij hixuriii islands plants Flora I

All and est chiefly varietH the hi! people which, and tl Isles, spreai succe< Arum but I tbriv( Tl neitli the unpi cons

t!,o liert

313

'

llnivc liuic in llie yrciiltfut ahiiiidaiicu. Kudu ric<)fi;iiisiil on (lie Sandwicli Island:), and under llie rcv\\, ut Iludack, in many species of seeds that were drifted there, the natives partly ot Cap, anil partly of the lower islands of tlu' (.'aroliiu' gronpe. Ol all the southern islands, I'Vis has the best soil and richest vej^etution. The linmlxM}. whose utility caused it to l)e introduced there from Cap, succeeds very v/ell ; and from the same source the other islunds procure many of their desiderata.

Many species not fuuiul at lladack, and lio.i sting a more luxuriant growth, are seen at Ulea an(' al! the southern islands of the I'acific. Luis de Tones lias even carried plants from Ulea to C»uaja, which \»ei'e stran^^ers to the Mora of this high district.

All tlies(! islands are rich in lircndjv'iit trees, Ttannnas, and esculent roots. The natives of llie lo^v grounds subsist chiefly on the lircudfruit, of which several large -fruited varieties are cultivated under different appellations; whilt; on the liighcr lands, Itoots constitute the chief support of the people; particularly those of the sweet I'otatoe [CdMOten*) which, with seeds of other useful plants, were brought by Cayal and three of his brothers, from the Bisayas or Philippine Isles, where they arc indigenous, and whence they have spread to other districts. According to Kadu, they do not succeed r.t Ulea. In the Pelew Islands, many varieties of Anim are cultivated, some of them attaining a great size; but they arc almost confined to elevated situations, ami thrive best at Feis.

The Pandanus grows on all the Carolines ; but its fruit is neither eaten nor used for ornaments, and we saw none of the improved varieties. The agriculture of Cap is (juite unparalleled ; floating gardens of Arum being ingeniously constructed on the waters, with wood and drift Bamhou,

* The Spaniards uall the sweet roots Camotes, having borrowed the name from tlic PhilippinH Inlands. The Canwti: of the Tagales nnil liisayas was cultivated here before the uunqiiest.

314

The Pisanij [Bannna) is liere cultivated, but more for the sake of its fibres than fruit. Of the former, the women weave or phiit elegant mat-like stuHs, or rather, perhaps, stulT-like mats. A jtiecu ol'this fabric, when finished, is jfenerally the shape of a Turkey shawl, one ell broad, and several ells long, with black threads interwoven at each end, forming orna- mental patterns, and the ends of these threads hanging loose as a fringe. 'I'liese cloths are sometimes dyed with Turmeric, {Cnrcuina.)

Another ))lant of the Mallow tribe yields a stringy bark, which, in some of the islands, is similarly employed in weaving.

The Paper- Mulberry tree, and the bark cloths of O-Waihi were iniknown to Kadu. Much of the trade of Ca}) consists in a powder made from the rasped roots of tlie Curcuma : it is a general fashion, from Tuch in the east to Pelli in the west, to dye the skin with this powder; but this ))ractice does not prevail in the groupe of islands situated to the south-west of the Pelews, nor at the Mariannes. Tlie custom of preparing .1 sweet syrup from the sap of the Cocoa Tree is only known at Pelew; for drinking cava and using salt arealike unjjractised in these islands.

(li

island, i kind of a Lt'P'ii A thin

seen, p»" margiuei {lowers ; the Con by its si of the

THE ISLE ROMANZOFF.

The Flora here is poor in the extreme ; we counted only nineteen species of perfect plants, (one Feni, three Monocoti/- ledones, and fifteen Dicotyledones) and we do not think that many escaped our observation. The Crijptogamous plants, with which, in higher latitudes, vegetation commences, ai)pear to be wanting here. The Lichens are only seen on the older trunks of trees, like a covering of dust; and the black powder which sprinkles the stones, seems not of a vegetable nature. Even a Moss and some Fungi which we found at Iladack, tlid not appear at Romanzoff. The plants we saw were a Poli/porlium, the Cocoa free, the Screto Pine [Panthmus), a Grass, Scwvola Konigii, Tournefortia argentea, Lyihrum Pemphis, Gucttarda speciosa, a Cassytha, an Fuphorhia, a Bocrhaavia, and an her- baceous kind of Nettle; all these being plants which we had found at Iladack ; and those which are wanting at the latter

315

1- the weave ff-like y tlie long,

I oina- loose

V'leric,

isluiid, are two shrubby Ititbiaceouii species, ami aiiothei kind of slirub; IL/iofropiniit prostnitiim, Portidacc.a o/rraceu, a Lt'p'xiinin [acre /) ami a Ihichtura /

A thin veffctation, through wliich the ground is everywhere seen, prevails liere, consisting of a few shrubs with entire- margined, simple, mostly succulent leaves and colourless flowers; these form a kind of thin brushwood, above which the Cocoa Tree raises itself, while the PnudaniiH is conspicuous by its singular form, entwined with the leafless, reddish stems of the Cassytha.

THE SANDWICH ISLES.— THE JOHNSTONE ISLANDS. '^-•<-'''''^''' ^^ ' ' ^

The collections of plants which Archibald Mcnzios, the, o^l^lsTl^pi- learned companion of Vancouver, formed in his diilercnt expeditions to the heights of O-Wpihi and Alauwi, arc still, with many other treasures, enshrined in the herbarium of Sir Joseph Hanks : and although this venerable Nestor of naturalists throws open his Gazoplijilitcium to all the learned with the morst unconstrained liberality, yet no one has at present undertaken to ni.ke us acquainted with the alpine Flora of O-Waihi.

The vegetation of O-Waihi lias nothing in common with the adjoining continent, the coast of California. The leafless Ibrm of the Acacias, the genera Mctrosidcros, Pandaiuis, Sanfahti/i, Ahiirites, Dracwna, Amomiim, Ciirciniia, and Tacra, impi'ess on it the character of their natural affinities. The families of the lluhiacccc, Apocyncfc, and Urticecc prevail; of the latter many wild species are used for making various kinds of bark-cloth*; and some arborescent milky Luhcliaccer. are also found. The innnedi,-'*'" margin of the island produces oiily a few kinds of g.ass and herbs. In the interior, the Flora is rich ; but it will bear no comjiarison with the luxuriant variety of Brazilian nature. Only low

Tilt' I'Kjnr-Miilhirri/ {/liniissuiuliii pajii/ritirti) is ciiltivntrd in tlic Sandwich Islancls, US in most of tliciso of tlie South Seas, for tlie niiinufnctiiri' of rloth. Hut it is a niisi,'l<e to suppose tliat it is tlic only plant nsi'il for tliat purpotr.

31(i

ireos are tbuiul in tlie vallies; among llicni tlie Aleurites triliiha, whose whitish foliage forms a singuhir kind of brnsli arounil the base and tlic declivities of the nioinitaiiis. Here and there, in the deep fissures of rocks, may be seen astonishing groves of Bananas, which, growing thickly, stem close-pressed to stem, cause a gloomy darkness to prevail beneath their wide spread leaves. These plants, if grown near tlie beach, scarcely attain a height of five feet, but in such situations as the above, they often treble that stature. The Acacias, from whose hollowed trunks the larjic canoes of the Sandwich Islands are made, attain on these mountains oidy to the size necessary lor that purpose, and there alone is the Sandal-wood found, which is so nuich jirized in China; while the ruler of these countries knows its value so well, that he makes it the means of inflicting poverty ujion his oppressed people, who are obliged to collect it, anil neglect ilu! necessary art of cultivating the ground.

The Tarra-root [Arum isciikntiiin), after being boiletl, is stamped into a tough pulp, and constitutes the princi})al food of the people. O-Wahu is that one of the Sandwich Islands which jn-oduces the greatest number of esculent plants, and part of the Tarra used at O-^Vaihi is thence derived. The culture of the vallies which i behind Ilanaruru is really astonishing. Artificial irrigate ns enable the natives to form, even upon the hills, large u '\tic plantations of Tarra, which are at the same time emplc; ul as fish-pond? while all kinds of useful plants grow on the banks which form their borders. Many introduced plants are now cultivated by some of the original inhabitants; but those of the people who retain their old manners make little use of them. Among these, the Tobacco may be considered as the prin- cipal; and it is indeed a vegetable which the natives of all parts of the globe have shown a readiness to employ. Water- Melons, Melons, and other kinds of fruit have been gladly adopted here. Besides the destructive car'a, a fer- mented liquor is prepared from the Tca-Itoot {Dracena ter- minalis); but the Sugar-Cane has never yet been employed for that purpose.

TIIEl

317

KAMTSCHATKA. THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS AND HEHRING'S STRAITS.

The cove of Awatsclia, lying between the same degrees of latitude as Berlin and rianiburgh, and the haven of St. Peter and St. Paul, in the interior, seem to be but little ex))o.sed to the influence of sua winds. The arborescent Jh'rc/t grows here; but stunted and very did'erent from the slender ele^^ant tree which is so nuicli admired in the north of Europe, and par- ticularly at Petersburgh. J'iiiiis Ciinbm, which on our Alps grows at greater heights than /'. Abies, and forms the boun- dary of the trees, Sorhiis Ai«ujKirki, Aliins inatmi, and some JVillowti are seen, but they remain quite shrubby. Timber may however be raised in the interior of the peninsida, where the climate is milder than on the oast coast; and the seeds of the Pi/iii.s Ceiiibra, which are eaten at the tables of Russians, come from Siberia via Ocholtzk.

Grasses and Iierbaceous plants thrive luxuriantly, the soil being rich and the sky milil. There are but few species of vegetables, and these seem about ecjually distributed. In shady spots grow Spireeu kamtschatica, Alliuiii ursiniim, Mai- aiitlu mum cunadense, Uvuhtria ((iiijjb.rijolia, Trillium oboriilum, &c. In the pastures are a J'tnifrum, Lilium luimtscliaticum. Iris sibiricft, &c. On the hills, which are rocky, abound some species of CapriJ'oliuiii, Spinea, liosn, the Atraijine alpina, and other mountain plants, as Jihoihuktidrim It/imfschaficum, Ein- jxirum ni(jrum, Trivntdlis curopicd, lAniueti bortnlis, Vuritus sueciai, Suxifrdya; &c. Some kinds oi' Fcni, from the num- ber of individual plants, form a considerable part of the vegetation. L'rlira dioicii, which was probably introduced, now seems to have established itself as a prevailing inhabitant of the soil.

The peninsula of Alaska, and the ac'joining island, called. 4' /^S<i'(1'^: Unimak, which is only separated from the continent by a narrow strait, seem to have the same character of vegetation as the main land, for trees are produced there, while Una- laschka and the t)ther islands of this range are (juite bare of them. A lew miserable Firs, originally brought from

PfTjiTi -ill Zg

318

Sitka niul planted at Uimlasclika, may still be seen, most of tliom decayed, and the others s':arcely seem likely to live; but the iilaiitation is yet young, and it is well known how ill trees of this kind bear a removal.

As we have been thrice at Unalaschka, both in spring and autumn, and have investigated its vegetable prt)ductions with particular care, we shall make this island serve as a point of comparison whereby to describe tlie character of tliose other ^ northerly situated countries at which we touched. V ^'rl i^'Si*- 1 1 "Ti?. . At Unalaschka, under the same latitude as Lubeck, the Willows scarcely grow higher than the luxuriant grass and herbs of the moist grounds. As soon as we ascend the in- ferior hills, a completely alpine vegetation appears; even on the least elevated regions of the mountains are some Vaccinia, resembling 1\ Mi/rtillxs, which scarcely rise above the ground. Besides the brilliant verdure due to a moist at- mosplierc, which here adorns the grass, and enlivens even the summits of the rocks, the lustre of the fresh unsullied snow, and of some social plants, bestow on this dreary country a variety and beauty of luies which are (juite de- lightful. Lupinus nnotkensis, Mimuln.i luteus (Pursli), gut- tatiis (Willd. En. Suppl.), Epilohinm angiistifolium and lati- foliiim, Ithododcmlron hanitschaticum, &c. are among the most conspicuous. The fresh green of the turf even reminded us of the valley of Ursera.

The vegetation here appears to have nothing farther in common with that of St. Peter and St. Paul, than as respects its alpine Flora and the coast plants of these northern shoies, Besitles such s})ecies as are likewise found more north, we have only the Liliinn /tamtschatioim, (except indeed the variety seen at Unalaschka prove a distinct species,) and tht Uvularia ampk.ri/bliti connnon to both places ; while, on the contrary, we found more Kamtschatkan sjiecies of plants on the American coast, north v)f Behriiig's Straits, which we missed at Unalaschka. It is the Flora of the North- West Const of America which descends to tlie base of the hills of this island, wliere it unites with the Arctic Flora. As examples of this, we may cite Ihibus spectahilis, Lupinna fioot/iensis,

319

'npi'ai'C' /V^i

lost of

live;

low ill

(which is also found, though dwarfish, on the lulls,) Epiluhium lutenm, and Mimulns guttutus (Willd.*), Claytonia unulasck- hcnsis (Fisch.), and sihirica {alsinoides? Pursh), may he also reckoned hero. Sunguisorha vunudeusis, Lithusjnriniim an- gustifoUiim, &c. belong to the common Flora of America.

Many species oi Grasses thrive in the low lands, with some UmbellaUe, such as AiKjelica, Iliradenm, 8cc. A dozen C'driccs, scarcely forming a larger proportion of the vegetation than in the north of Germany ; some Scirpi and Eriophora accom- pany them, with a few Jutici, in the j)ro})()rtion of about one to two. The Orchidice constitute a groupe of some importance, both because of the number of species and the beauty of the individuals; they prevail both in the vallies and on the hills- and we counted eleven kinds: among them a beautiful Ci/pri- ptdium. Higher north, we did not observe a single plant of this family. Of the Ferns we found about eight species; nearer to the Pole there is but one Filir, and even of this we only saw a solitary specimen. At Unaiaschka there are some Lycojto- dia; in the more arctic regions but one. We found in the lakes many water-plants ; Potamogetoii, Spargaiiiiiiii, Jianun- cidiis aquatdis, &c. ; in the higher latitudes we observed only the two species of Ilippuris, and the common CnlUtriclw.

Two other lianuncula, the Prmiella vulgaris, a species of lihuianthiis, of Cineraria, AchiUaa, Plantago, and Geum, some Itubiacea:, a Claytonia, the Menyantlies trifoliata, a Triglochin, &c. belong, with the otlicr above-mentioned plants, to the Flora of the vallies of Unaiaschka. We saw also a Jiartsia, apparently diil'erent from the Jiartsia jxillida of more nor- therly situations. To a beautiiul plant, which constitutes a new and dist.net genus, we gave the appellation of lloinanznffia unalaschhensis, in commemoration of the noble promoter of all science in Russia. The genera lliinuw, Polygonum, Aconi- tum, Tlialictrum, some Alsinece, the Iris sihirica. Geranium pratense, Comarum pratense, and Montia fontana. are distri- buted all over tiiese arctic regions.

'V'»nA7?x.>,y,-^j

The seed of this species, uliicli Mas raised in tlie Uotauic Garden of Berlin, is said to be brought from BailtHl.

Y 2

r'

320

The Empdrum niynim, witli Ilelff horns fri/oliiis (Linn,), tlie latter being an American plant which we did not see again mure to the north, are ioinul njion most of the hills, and indicate the alpine natm-e of the scenery. There are also some species of Vacciiiiiim, and the connnon O.ri/coccos, Arhnlus vipinus and L'va-ursi, with a white-flowered Mcn- zicsifi, (])rol)al)ly a variety of Erica ccrriikn,) llhododnulron kamtscluiticHiii, Azalea procuiiilnns, Aiulruiucila /i/cojxK/ioides, (which, nearer to the Pole, yields to ./. htragomi,) the alpine IVillowft, Silcne acanlis, Silihaldia jjroriiiii/iciis, Cormis si/crica, 2'riintalis curopao, I.innaa Imridlis, Ormtliogalum stridluin* Anthericum calynilatiini ( Linn., var. />urca/is), Kuiiiyia islaiidka, a Gi/nuifoidra, ajiparentiy diil'erent from that one found higher north, tan Sa.rlfrfiffcs, three species of Prdicidaris, some i^o- tentilUe, two Gia, two Aiiriiioiics, three kinds of Primula., a Popaver, a Drosira, a Pint/iiicii/a, two I'l/ro/tc, a Viola, a Parnassia, a Pidiits, and an ArDitria. There was but one alpine liamnwidiis, and three C>t:ntiane<p ; of these genera there are more individuals in higher latitudes. Of the class Si/iifjiencsia, we found Aster, Hitraciiim, Giiaphulium, Leon- todon, and Artcitiisia ; this class prevails greatly as we ap- proach the Pole, the genus Arkmisia in jiarticular, exhibit- ing many individuals. On the other hand, Unalaschka produces some aljiine species of the genera Campanula and Veronica, which arc entirely wanting in the north. There are some individuals of the order Crucifercc, scattered partly in the hills and partly in the vallies. We did not find at Unalaschka yllnus incana, Bitula nana, Tjeditm palustre, Dryas octopclala, Diapcnsia lajtponica, lihodioln rosea, the genera Spira;a, Astragalus, Allium, Myosotis, Corydalis, Vtdcriana, Aretia, Androsacc, Dod<t;itlicon, Deljiliinium, or Oroljanche ; all of which are natives of more northern latitudes.

The maritime Flora, which is unaltered in the arctic regions, consists particularly ol' Elymus mollis, (Herb. Gorenk. Trinius in Sprengel's En. 2. p. 72.) Arenaria peploides, Pisum

Tbern are ttvo varktus uf lliin plant, which may perhaps be distinct species.

321

.inn.),

H see

l.ills,

10 are

WOCfOS,

Men- yulron \oi(ks, lilpine yrica, fuin,* iilica,

vmritimum, with various appearances of Puliiumario maritima ^ (Wilkl.), lieing probably diU'erent species, llie I', jianijlora (Piirsli), Cucldmriit ()(/irin(i/is, and .Iniiru iiiaritiitKi, wiiicli, tliouirli liere very luxuriant and branched, in more nortliern situations is only one-flowered. To this hst we may add Potentilld aiisiritid. The sea ah)ng the coast and in the creeks is rich in Alijw ; while the Funis csriikiitits (the Sea Kale of the Russian inhabitants) is particularly observable among many {figantic species of the genus.

At Unalaschka, the JMosscs and Lichens begin to assume that predominant station which they hold in all the very cold districts.

We took but a cursory view of the islands St. George and i>'.^iCDl*ijC St. Paul, situated in nea Iv the same latitude as Ki<ra. It is ^

extraordinary liow mucii more frigid does Nature here show c^v T^Z ( i herself than at Unalaschka. No sheltered vallies, no pro- tected spots favour the vegetation of the j)lants of milder climes; but a perfectly alpine growth prevails, both on the hills and the beach. 'J'he high smnmits of the desolate rocks are covered vvitii i)alij and black Lir/ifiis, while those places which are irrigated with melted snow allbrd only Sphaipmui, a few other Mosses, and some Carices. Tiiere are no springs in the soil. The various arctic plants choose, according to their nature, the rocky or the moory spots; and none elevate themselves above the ground, to which they seem closely })rcssed. A Lupine at the island St. George, and an Achilhca at St. Piul, remind the observer of the productions of Unalaschka; b>.t there are also several species which are not even seen in the liighest parts of the latter island, such as lianunculns Pnllasii and Gmelini, an Antlrosare, and a Claytonia. \Vc found only one plant peculiar to these.^ , U^t' T F? L b'^

islands, a CycAfcaWa? which is plentiful and charncteristic. v/,.„ d mi 1 1-1 111 , c T > L »■ fn/t<ir< "

Ihe alpmc or arctic rlora whicli here (at St. Lawrence) s\ »;; ) .i.^

adorns the loot ot the mountams, iloes not appear to entwine , ^ -, , j.c

their brows ; for when these are entirely free from snow, and * *^ »

the water produced by the melted snow irrigates some brilliant .■- Ji^^

plants, the dry ridges and declivities of the masses of fallen v? leS's^^^ ^^

rocks are only scantily attired with gray and black Lichens. 'i A"

322

The mountains of these dreary climes being unprotected by any covering of vegetation, soon decompose. The frost bursts the rocks, every suiinntr's gentle warmth causing fresh ruins, and so destruction hastens towards its completion. Wherever the abundance of SplKKjmun has not produced a boggy turf in the deeply watered jilaces, the ground presents only heaps of broken rocks.

The asjiect of Nature at the Cove of St. Lawrence is most wintry ; the scanty herbage barely covering the black soil, while the dwarfish IVilhics do not reach to one's knee. The Andromeda po/iJI)/ia which we found there, tlid not exceetl two or three inciies in height, and was one-flowered. Among the vegetables of this Cove, we found a Dtlphiniinn, a l)o- dccatheo/i, an Antia, and we saw there also tiie greatest num- ber of species belonging to those truly arctic genera, Gcn- tianii, Siuifnic/a, Astragalus, Artemisia, Draha, Ranunculus, and Claiitimid, inanv of these beinif undescribed.

The Island of St. Lawrence, situated two degrees more to the south, does not differ in vegetation from the Cove of the same name. The Andromeda tetragona, JJrgas ortopetala, Diapensia lappoiiica, with some alpine kinds of Afgosotis, and a Gymnandra, clearly indicate the prevailing character of its flowers. We observed, when first arriving on this island, where the vegetation is j)urely arctic, that we gathered in a few minutes more plants in bloom, than we had observed during many weeks en that range of islands comprising Ra- dack, &.C. and situated between the tropics.

Farther northwards, on the rocky island in the interior of Kotzebue's Sound, grew the Azalea procnmbens, as at Una- laschka and the Cove and Isle of St. Lawrence; with the alpine Willows, Corvus sueciea, Linnaa borealis, some arctic species of Ituhus, &c. The Kmpetrum nigrum and Ledum jmlustre cover the moorland, with the Sphagnum, but the Ledum does not here form the tall shrub which decorates the turfy bogs of the north of Germany.

The vegetation at the interior of Kotzebue's Sound is much more luxuriant than within St. Lawrence's Cove. The IVillows are taller, the grasses grow stronger, al' the plants

323

3tecte(l |o frost K /iosh

't-'tiori. ficed a resents

s most soij, The xceed tnong fi 7)0- imiii- Cien- culus,

nrc more utout uiid succulent, wliile the {greater number of species ci nuiion to the American coast tlian appear in St. Law- rence's Cove, indicate a more tem|)erate climate. On tlie ishnul of that name, we galliered Alnm inraiia, as a very dimi- nutive shrub, and Spircra chdinmlrifulix, botii of wiiicli we had remarked at Kamtschatka, and not on the American Island Unalaschka; and which a sterner atinosj)here seems to have driven from St. Lawrence's Cove. An Orohanrhe and a Phif/iiictifd are among the plants of this island. Tiie Ciner- aria palustris grows with remarkable luxuriance in the well watered slopes formed at the base of the mounds of ice ; while Betiila nana is seen even on the very shores. The plain country of this island is free from snow throughout the summer.

[TAB. LXIII. LXIV. LXV. LXVI. LXVII.]

ON THE PLANTS OF THE NATURAL ORDER UMBELLIFER.E,

Detected by Dr. Gillies in the extra tropical parts of South America, . li i

The species of this genus, found by Dr. Gillies in South America, and chiefly in the Cordilleras, both on their eastern and western sides, are not numerous, and their illustration has been greatly facilitated by the recent labours of Hoff- man, Sprengel, and more es|)ecially of Koch and De Can- doUe. The country in (juestion seems to be, more par- ticularly, the district of the Mulinea, a subtribe of De Can- dolle, of which the genera are less satisfactorily determined than tliose of the other groupes of the order; and to me it appears that Fragosa, Ruiz et Pav. and Pcctnphijtum of Kunth, should be removed from the Hifdrocotylece, where De Candolle has placed them, and arranged with the Mu- linecc.