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NARRATIVE

OF THE •

ARCTIC LAND EXPEDITION.

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NARRAT1\ K

(IK I III

ARCTIC LAND EXPEDITION

!<• I hi; MdllM Ol

Till-: (;uj":at fisj[ jijvki{.

ANn

AF.ONG niK SIIOHES OV THE AKCTIC OCEAN,

IN THE YEARS 1833, 1834, AM3 I835;

»Y CAPTAIN IJACK, Il.N.

'O.MMANDEU OF thk KX ]• KD I T. (, n.

AJ

ILLUSTKATEl) HY A MM'

PARIS,

PUBLISHED BY A. AND W. GALIGNANI AND Co..

RUL VIVIExVNE. N" 18.

1836.

M

:^ B<

ft

rRINTEI) BY J. SiMITU, IG, RIE MONf ' <•£. SNUV ,

TO

THE RiOlIT IIONOURARLE

THE EARL OF RIPON.

My Lord,
Your Lordship was SccreUiry of Stale for the Colonies
when the Exj^ition of which the following is the Narrative
was organised : and to your good Offices, and hberal Sub-
scription in its favour, the success of the project was at that
lime mainly due. I have ventiu'ed, in consequence, to de-
dicate to you the Volume : and am most happy in being thus
enabled to express some part of the sincere respect with which
I have the honour to be,

My Lord,
Voiir Lordship's most obedient

and very humble Servant,

CeoRGK fiACK.

139433

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CONTENTS.

Pheijminary Chaitkr

PhKi"

CMAF'TtR I.

Departure from England. — Arrival at Montreal. — Preparations for the Ex-
pedition.— Fire at the Hotel. — Departure from La Chine. — The St.
Lawrence. — The Ottawa. — Lake Huron. — The Sault de Ste. Marie.
— Arrival at Fort William. — Distribution of the Loadings. — The
Mountain Fall. — Lac de la Pluie. — Arrival at Fort Alexander. —
Magnetic Observations. — Arrival of Governor Simpson, and Arrange-
ments made by hira. — Arrival at Norway House. — Difficnity of pro-
curing Men for the Service. —Departure from Norway House

I t

CHAPTER H.

Commencement of the Expedition. — Interview with Mr. Charles. — Wind-
bound by a Land Gale. — A Receipt for the Cure of" Blue Devils." —
Description of a Voyageur's Tent. — A Land Storm. — TheGrand Rapid.

— Advance of Cultivation. — Arrival at Cumberland House. — Depar-
ture of the Bateaux under Mr. King. •—Embark in a Canoe. — Work-
ing of the Boats in the Rapids. — Isle ik la Crossa. — Buffalo Lake. —
A Squall. — A Skunk. — Portage la Loche. — Eft'ect of the Scenery. —
Interview with Mr. Stuart and Mr. A. M'Leod. — The latter volunteers
to accompany the Expedition. — Arrive at Fort Chipevvyaii. — Information
as to the supposed Route by the Fond du Lac. — Journey resumed.

— Salt River. — Sketch of a Party of Indians. — Description of the Salt
Springs. — Indian Encampment. — Information of the Natives as to the
Rivers Thlew-ee-c> oh and Teh-Ion. — Arrival at Fort Resolution

•.10

CHAPTER HI.

Inquiries and l-^mbarrassmcnts about the Route. — Pre|)arations for Depar-
ture.— Embark in search of the Thlew-ee-cboh. — Indian E icampment
and Indian Politeness. — Point of Honour among Indian Hunters. —
Description of the Country through wliicb the Route lay. — A small Ice-
berg seen. — A Bear Hunt. — Indian Inconsistency. — Description of
the Coast Line. — Point Keith and Christie's Bay. — Eastern Extremity
of (ireat Slave Lake. — Discovery of the River siijjposed to lead towards
(he Thlew-ee-choh. — Preparations to ascend it . .

'II

CHAPTER IV.

Diflicult and toilsome Ascent of Hoar Frost River. — Striking Sceiirry
along its Course. — Illness of the Interpreter. — Eiicampincnt upon Cook'rt

^r

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1^

vi CONTENTS.

Lake. — Ascent of another small River full of Rapids. — Desertion of
two Indians. — Perplexity of the Guide as to the proper Course, and
At(emj)t to desert. — Succession of Streams and Lakes. — Indian Ac-
count ol the The-lew or Tch-lon. — Clinton-Colden, Aylmer, and Sussex
Lakes. — Discovery ol the Thlcw-ee-choh .....

CHAPTER V.

F>igrcssion concerning Hcarne's Route ....

CHAPTER VI.

Continue our Progress. — Rockson the Thlew-ec-choh. — Island of sin-
gular Appearance. — Musk-ox Lake. — Conjectures on the Course ol
the Thle\v-ee-choh. — Icy River. — Appearance of two Indians. —
Maufelly permitted to visit his Wife.— Consummate Skill of De CharlAit.

— Dwarf Pines. — Story of the Rat and the Beaver. — Unfitness of the
Trees for Planks. — Artillery Lake. — Force of the Rapids. — Accident
in our Passage. — Leave the Ah-hel-dessy. — A Bear killed. — Ridicu-
lous Story. — March resumed. — Desolate Scenery. — A Deer shot. —
Tormented by Sand-flies. — Anecdote of Sir John Franklin. — Meeting
with Mr. M'Leod, by an unexpected Route . . . . .

ClIAl'TER VII.

" Le grand jeune Homme." — Trade with the Indians. — Sunday. — IVIr.
King arrives, with two Bateaux. — Performed a Surgical Operation.

— Discomforts of an Indian Canoe. — Conduct of the party. — Erection
of new Dwelling. — Arrival of Indians. — Their policy. — Aged Indian
\N oman. — Starving Visitors. — Case of Revenge for Inhospitality. —
The Thiew-ee-choh described. — Obt;ervatory. — Strange Appearance ol
the Aurora. — Pouring in of the Indians. — Superstitious Fancies. —
Shortness of Food. — Domiciled in the new Building, named Fort Re-
liance. — Supplies again fail. — Akaitcho. — Discharge of i)e Charl6it
and two Iroquois; also, of La Chariti-. — Gloom of the Indians. — Story ol
a young Hunter. — Breach ol Indian Law — Death of the old Woman.

— Chrislmas-day. — Short Allowance. — Experimenls. — Excessive Cold

— Arrival of Mr. M'Leoil
an Indian

Barbarous .-Mrocity. — Revolting Story ol

CHAPTER Vlll.

Exemplary Conduct of Akaitcho. — Mr. M'Leod and his Family leave us.

— Arrival of Maufelly. — Supply of Deer-flesh. — Misunderstanding
between Akaitcho and the Interpreter. — Preparation for building two
Boats. — Mr. M'Leod's ill Success. — Strange Conduct of two Indians.

— Supply of Food. — Distressing Condition of Mr. M'Leod. — Return
of Mr. King's Party. — News from York Factory. — Uncertain Fate
of Augustus. — Presence of two Ravens. — Ravens shot by an Iroquois.

— News from England. — Discharge of three Men. — Alteration of Plans.

— Appearance ol Hiids. — .\dvinturcs li> Mr. King. — .\rrival of Mr.
M'Leod. — Anxiety about Williamson — Snltiy \\ rather. — Melan-
cholv Fate of Augustus ..... . .

rngc

59

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59

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IX.

Hi-neotions. — Halt for the Night. — \laroh resumed. — (3bstacles eii-
I'oiiiitered. — The Hoats finished. — Ea.sterii Shore of Artillery Lake. —
I'lirsuc the Track of Mr. iM'Lood. ~ Two Deer shot, — Stiinleil Pines.
— Encampment. — Difficulty in tracing our Route. — News from i\Ir.
.M'Leod. — A Snow Storm. — Fires lighted ou the Hills. — Accident
to Peter Taylor. — Deviate from our Course. — Accident to James
Spence. — Boisterous Weather. — Plunder of a Cache. — Find the run-
away Guides. — The Ice unsafe. — Enter upon Lake Aylmer. — A dense
Fog. — Sand-hill Bay. — .Judicial Investigation. — Animals. — Musk-ox
Kai)id. — Join Mr. M'Leod. — Survey of the River. — Indians return
■with the Pemmican. — Stock of Provisions. — An Indian Belle. — A
Reindeer V\.\:„ .........

VII

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CHAPTER X.

InstriKtions to Mr. M'Leod upon our Separation. — Meet with Akaitcho.

— His Lodge. — Imminent Danger to the Boat. — Akaitcho's friendly
Caution. —Embarkation. — Heavy Storms. — Our Crew. — Geological
Features of the Country. — Obstructions from the Ice. — Perils from a
Series of Rapids. — Plunder of a Bag of Pemmican. — Obstacles on
our Passage. — Boisterous We?ther. — Deer hunting. — Obser* ations.

— Deviation of the River. — Desolate Scenery. — Detained by the Ice

— Cascades. — Land-marks. — Contraction of the River. — B^illie's
|{iver. — Flocks of Geese. — Tact requisite in Command. — Precipi-
tous Rocks. — A Fox. — Esquimaux Marks. — Bullen River. — A Storm.

— Lake Pelly. — Conjectures of an Indian. — Encampment. — View of the
(Country. — Further 01>slructions. — Observations. — Lake Garry H\

CHAPTER XI.

(iigantic Boidders. — Danger from the Rapids. — Cour.se of the River.

— Lake Macdougall. — Hazardous Passage. — Sinclair's Falls. —
Northerly Bend of the River. — Mount IMeadowbank. — Altitude of
the Rocks. — The Trap Formation. — M'Kay's Peak. — Lake Franklin.

— Extrication from Peril. — Sluggishness of the Compass. — Esqui-
maux. — Portrait of a Female. — Victoria Headland. — Mouth of the
Thiew-ec-choii. — Cockburn Bay. — Point Backhouse. — Irby ami
.Mangles' Bay. — Point Beaufort. — Our Progress arrested. — Montreal
Island. — A Musk-ox killed. — Birds on the Island. — Elliot Bay. —
M'Kay, etc. sent along the Coast. — F.s(iuimaux Encampment. — Cape
Hay. — Point Ogle. — Progress obstructed by the Ice. — A Piece of
Drift-wood found. — Ross I.sland. ~ Discoveries by Mr. King. — Mag-
n<!tic Observations. — Point Richardson. — Point Hardy. — Conjectures

as to a N. W Passage and Channel to |{egeiit's Inlet . . Is;{

\-2()

CHAPTER XII

I'xhilaraling Inlluenco nf a Hunting Excursion. — Removal of the Esijui-
ma»ix. — Leave them a Bag of Pemmican. — .Accident to the Boat. —
Inundation ol the Country. — Discovery ol Esquimaux. — Wise Man
of the Tribe. — Critical Position in the Rapids. — A Storm. — .Vdven

i

VIII

CONTENTS.

ture of a Lemming. — Encamp at Musk-ox Rapid. — Meeting with
Mr. M'Leod. — Fate of Williainsoii. — The Yellow Knives. — Encamp
on Artillery Lake. — Reach the Ah-hel-«les8y. — Depart for Montreal.
— The Sauteaux Indians. — Success of a Missionary at Sault Ute.
Marie. — Return to England. — Conclusion ....

P»Re

2>i

APPENDIX.

No. I. — 'Zoological Keinark.s, by Dr. John Richardson . *<J46

II. — List of Plants collected by Mr. Richard King, during the Progress

of the Expedition 268

III. — Articulata. Catalogue of Arachnida and Insects collected by

Mr. King 274

IV. — Geological Notice of the New Country passed over in Captain

Back's Expedition, by Dr. W . K. Fittou .... 279

v. — Meteorological Table, arranged from the Registers kept at Fort

Reliance, by Captain Dack and Mr. King .... 288

V'l. — Table of the Temperature of Animals, Birds, Fish, Trees, and

Earth, at different Times and Places, arranged by Mr. King . 302
VII. — On the Aurora Borealis ...... :106

VIII. — Magnetical Observations ...... 318

IX. — Table of Latitudes, Longitudes and Variations . , 326

X. — Letter from W. Smith, Esq., Secretary to the Hudson's L.iy Com-
pany, to Angus Bethune, Esq., Chief Factor at Sault St. Mary's 327

List of Subsckibkhs to tuf, Arctic Land Expf,dition in Search of
Capt.mn Ross .......

32!»

1

P»Ke

iii

NARRATIVE

OF \

246
2G8
274
•279

288

302
:i06
318
326

327

32'.»

JOURNEY

4

TO THE

SHOBES OF THE ARCTIC SEA.

PRELD1INARY CHAPTEB.

Early in the year 1832, the protracted absence of Captain (now
Sir John) Ross, who had sailed in 1829 to the Polar regions, and
had not afterwards been heard of, became the subject of gener d and
anxious conversation. A report even reached Italy, where I hap-
pened to be, that he and his adventurous companions had perished ;
but, having ascertained that there was no other ground for this
rumour than the uncertainty of their fate, I shortly afterwards hast-
ened to England, with the intention of offering to Goverament mv
services to conduct an expedition in search of them.

On my arrival, in June, 1832, I was informed that my friend and
former companion. Doctor Richardson, had already made an ap-
plication to the same effect; but that his offer, for various reasons,
not having been accepted, he had, in consequence, as I was given
to understand, relinqui.shed the idea. I was further informed, how-
ever, by Mr. Reverly, w ho had been the companion of Sir E. Parry
in his perilous journey over the ice from Spitzbergen towards the
Pole, that Mr. Ross (brother of Sir John, and father of Captain
James Ross) was anxious to l^.-d an officer properly qualified to un-
dertake the conduct of a party through America, on the plan pro-
posed by Doctor Richardson; which, not having been adopted by
the Government, had been presented for consideration to other
quarters.

I proceeded, therefore, without loss of lime to Mr. Ross, who read

1

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a l'Ri:r<lMINAKY CIIAPTEU.

to nie a pelilion wliicli lie was about to send to the King, praying
his Majesty's gra(;ions sanction lo the immediate despatch ol
an expedition lor rescuing, or at least ascertaining the fale of, his
son and brother ; and my name being forthwith inserted as the
proposed leader ot the expedition, this petition, was forwarded
through Lord (ioderich, then Secretary for the Colonies. The in-
terval before an answer could be returned was employed in collect-
ing information, and organising the necessary co-operation. In this
I was warmly seconded and efliciently aided by many gentlemen
whose opinions and assistance were most valuable, and more espe-
cially by Nicholas Garry, Esq., the deputy Governor of the Hudson's
Bay Company, Captains Beaufort and Maconochie, Doctor Bichard-
son, and George Baillie, Esq. 1 addressed, moreover, on the 21 st of
Angus*, a letter to the (geographical Society, explaining my views,
and requesting that they might be recommended lo the favourable
consideiation of !>Iir. Hay, I'ndor Secretary for the Colonies, and a
member of that Society.

It is gratifying to add, that the support of Mr. Hay was zealously
afforded; and, shortly afterward', the following letter was sent to
Mr. Boss : —

" Downing Street, 'Mnh August, 1S32.

' ' Sir, — I am directed by Viscount Goderich to acquaint you , that his
Majesty having been pleased to refer your pelilion to his Lordship's
consideration. Lord Goderich has felt himself justified in recommend-
ing lo the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury to grant the sum of
2000/. in aid of llie expenses of iheexpedilion, provided Ihal il is com-
manded by Captain IJack ; il being underslood Ihat the Hudson's Bay
Company will furnish Ihe supplies and canoes free of cliarsc, and lliat
the remainder of the expense, which is eslinialed al SOOO/. , will be
contributed by Captain Ross's friends. On roceivinti an answer from
the Treasury, the result will be duly commciiicaled to you.

" I am, Sir,

"Your most ohedienl servauf.

" HoWICK.
" Geo. Rosa, Es(i."

This was annoimced to me as follows : —

" No. 207, Strand, 7lh S»'i)t. 18:J2.

"Sir, — I have the pleasure (o inclose you the copy of a letter which
I have received from Lord Howick by Ihedireclioiisof Lord (ioderich,

«

PRELIMINARY CIIAPTliR.

'"bS piayiiig
despatch ol
e fate ui, his
erted as ihe
s forwarded
!S. The in-
3d in collect-
lion. In this
y gentlemen
I more espe-
he Hudson's
torlJichard-
n the 21 St of
g my views,
e favourable
onies, and a

k'as zealously
was sent to

you, that his

|s Lordship's

ccommend-

|l the sum ol'

t it is com-

(Isou's iiay

jc, and (hat

/., will be

iiswer from

lowicK.

I'lit. IHWi.

Iller which

ioderich,

in reply to my applicalioii to his Majesty, oti the subject of an ex-
pedition to the shores of (he Polar Sea, with the view to ascertain, if
possible, the fate of my brother, Captain lloss, andof my son, C]ii[ttaiu
James Clarke lloss.

1 '•! have only to add my earnest retpiest, that you will, in com-

pliance with what appears also to be the wish of Govermnent, under-
take the command and direction of this humane and dillicult enler-

"^ \msc, — certainly a most ardnous task, but one, for the elleclual

accomplishment of which none is more eminently qualified.

"1 have the honour to be, Sir,

"Your very obedient servant,

I "Ceo. Ross.

"Capt. Geo. Hack."

My answer was, of course, a ready acce|)tance of the proj)osed
trust. The interest and sympathy of the public began now to ma-
nifest themselves more strongly. On INovember 1 . 1 832, a nuiet-
ing was accordingly held at the rooms of the Horticultural Soci.?ty
(kindly lent for the occasion), in order to bring the humane object
of the expedition formally before it; and in Vice Admiral the Right
Hon. Sir George Cockburn, who presided, the cause found so
powerful an advocate, that a subscription of «S00/. was made on the
spot. A standing Committee was also now formed for the manage-
ment of the expedition, consisting of the following persons : —

i

Sir G. Cockburn, G. C. B. Chairman.

John Barrow, Esq. F. R. S. <,

Robt. Hay, Esq., F. R. S.

Vice Admiral Sir W. Hotham, K. C. R.

Vice Admiral Sir Chailcs Ogle, Bart.

Rear Admiral W. H. Gage.

Felix Booth, Esq.

The Hon. Capt. H. Duncan, R.N.

Capt. Bowles, R. N.

Capt. Beaufort, R. N. F. R. S.

J. H. Polly, Esq. Governor H. B. Company.

INich. Garry, Es(f. l)ep. Gov. do.

W. P. Craufurd, Esq.

Capt. Bcechcy, R.N. F.R.S.

])r. Richardson, F. R. S.

Capt. Hoppner, R. N.

Capt. Maconochie, R. N.

C. Beverly, Esq. F. R. S.

PRELIMINARY CHAPTER.

Robert M'Ciillorh, Esq.

J. Spence, Esq.

(joorge Ross, Esq., Honorary Secretary.

Of ihese, Mr. Booth, Captain Duncan, and Captain Bowles were
appointed Trustees. The services and influence of Sir George
Cockburn, which had been so beneficially employed in aid of the
expedition, were soon lost to the Committee, in consequence of his
appointment to the command on the West India station. But his
place was condescendingly supplied by his Royal Highness the
Duke of Sussex, who was pleased to become Vice Patron and Chair-
man. Mr. George Ross also having resigned his situation as hono-
rary secretary, and turned his attention to the object of getting up
an expedition by sea for the same benevolent purpose, his place was
taken by Robert M'CuUoch, Esq., a cousin of Captain Ross, and
thus not less interested in the success of the scheme than Mr. Ross
himself.

It was gratifying to observe, in the rapid accumulation of our
funds, the liveliness of the public sympathy in this disinterested pro-
ject. No obstacle, therefore, was to be anticipated from want of
means, and the preparations went on with increased confidence. In
furtherance of the communications which were made by Dr. Ri-
chardson, the Governor and Directors of the Hudson's Rav Com-
pany had already despatched directions to their agents in America,
apprising them that such an expedition mijht be expected in the
fo'.'owing spring, and directing the necessary preparations to be
made for it; and now, besides generously placing at our disposal
1 20 bags of pemmican, two boats and two canoes, these gentlemen
suggested, with equal liberality and considerateness, the expediency
of taking it under the especial protection of the Company, by issuing
a commission under their seal to me as its Commander. Gladly, as
may be supposed, did I avail myself of so important an offer, well
knowing, from past experience, that the co-operation of all parties
throughout their extensive territory would by this means be effec-
tually secured.

The expedition was to consist of two officers and eighteen men;
part of whom, including two good boat carpenters, were to be en-
gaged in this country, — and part in Canada, — men who should be
inured to fatigue, and well accustomed to the duties they would have
to perform. From Montreal it was proposed that the ordinary

PRELIMINARY CHAPTER.

1 Bowles were
of Sir George
i in aid of the
quence of his
ion. But his
Highness the
'on and Chair-
ation as hono-
l of gelling up
his place was
aiu Ross, and
than Mr. Ross

ulalion of our
nterested pro-
from want of
niidence. In
by Dr. Ri-
's Ray Corn-
in America,
ected in the
alions to he
our disposal
e gentlemen
expediency
, by issuing
Gladly, as
offer, well
f all parties
s be effec-

jteen men;
to be en-
should be

^ouid have
ordinary

route of the fur traders should be followed by the Ottawa, French
River, the (Jreat Lakes, Lake Winnipeg, etc. to Great Slave Lake;
from whence Indians were to be employed as guides and hunters to
accompany the party to the banks of the Thiew-ee-choh-desselh, or
Great Fish River, which, according to the testimony of the Indians,
lay to the eastward of the Lake, and might be approached by an in-
tervening chain of smaller lakes and portages. The winter resi-
dence, for which, from a reference to Hearne's Journey, it seemed
so well adapted, was to be there established ; and in the mean while
a detachment of eight men, well armed, was to proceed in advance
with me, without loss of time, to explore the river in a light canoe.
As it necessarily flowed through the barren lands which are of nearly
equal elevation with the country north of Fort Enterprise, it was to
be expected that its course, like the descent of the Coppermine river,
would be interrupted by rapids or cascades; and these the canoe
excursion would enable me to survey, so that, on my return to the
winter establishment, we might construct boats combining the qua-
lities requisite for both the river and sea navigation. As far, also,
as the season would permit, my visit to the sea might give me an
oppoitunily of communicating with the Esquimaux, and obtaining,
if not intelligence of Captain Ross, at least much information for the
direction of my course the following summer. Having passed the
first winter, it was proposed that we should start for the sea the mo-
ment the ice broke up; and, if an opinion should prove correct,
which I had been led to entertain from an inspection of the maps
traced by the Indians, that the mouth of the river lay between the
(J8th and 69th parallels of latitude, and the 90lh and lOOlh meri-
dians of longitude, we should then be less than three hundred miles
from the wreck of the Fury in Regent Inlet. It had formed part of
Captain Ross's plan to visit the wreck of the Fury in the first instance,
that he might supply himself with coals and such provisions and stores
as were available; and to return and winter beside it, if in the course
of the summer he should be unable to penetrate to the westward.
It was therefore in Regent Inlet that the search for him was most
likely to be successful. If, contrary to our hope, no traces of Captain
Ross should be discovered on arriving at the wreck of the Fury, and
the season should be far advanced, it would be necessary for us to
retrace our way to winter quarters ; and, in so doing, we should em-
brace every opportunity of erecting land-marks and signal posts, to
arrest the attention of the wanderers to the notes deposited beneath.

'f

I

[\

i

« PRFJJMINAIIY CHAPTEK.

(Iclailiii^ ilio position of our al)0(lo, and tho means adopted for their
relief.

On llic disruption of the ice in the following spring, llic expedition
would again ho on the shores of the Polar Sea, and its researches
would he resumed in adiderent direction from that previously taken.
Kvery Ksquimaux hut would tlien he miniitely inspected, in the hope
ol (indiuj? some token of the fate of our countrymen ; and the gra-
tification which the promoters of the expedition would experience,
should even a single Hriti.sh seaman be rescued from his melancholy
fate by their mean3,.evcry one felt would amply repay our utmost
exertions. While, even if no such happy fortune should attend our
researches, the geographical knowledge that must be obtained, and
the scientific information resulting from a course leading nearly over
one of the iVlagnetic Poles, would, it was hoped, tend to console
them.

Such was the outline of the plan to be followed, as regarded the
humane and principal object of our search; and in the event of that
being rendered nugatory by the almost unlocked for return of Captain
Ross and his gallant companions, or by any obstacle preventing the
progress of the expedition in the exact direction of its course to the
wreck of the Fury, it was still thought, in our uncertainty of the
precise place where the Thlew-ee-choh-desseth might fall into the
sea, that the coast line between Point Turnagain and the known land
(0 the eastward might be satisfactorily ascertained, and thus another
step made towards the determination of that interesting problem —
the northern limits of America.

For all these purposes, I was provided with a variety of astro-
nomical instruments, including a dipping needle by Dollond, and a
diurnal variation instrument bv Jones ; which latter was also to be
used to obtain the effect produced on the needle by the aurora bo-
realis. I had also one of Professor Hansteen's instruments, besides
three chronometers lent by the Admiralty. Guns and other neces-
sary materials were furnished by the Committee ; who, that, no-
thing might be omitted which could at all contribute to our comfort,
ordered also a plentiful provision of cocoa and macaroni, than
which few things are belter suited to such undertakings, and of
which such was our economical expenditure, that some portion even
returned with us to iMontre^il.

His most gracious Majesty, the patron of the expedition, having
commanded my attendance at IJrighton, I had the honour to ex-

i

'L

I'UKLIMINAIIV rilAPTF.Il

loptctl for their

the expedition
1 its researches
evioiisly taken,
ed, in the hope
; and the gra-
dd experience,
liis melancholy
ay onr utmost
•nid attend our

ohtained, and
ing nearly over
3nd lo console

} regarded the

e event of that

urn of Captain

preventing the

course to the

rtainty of the

t fall into the

c known land

thus another

g problem —

lety of astro-
]llond, and a
»s also to be
aurora bo-
fnts, besides
fther neces-
i, that, no-
lur comfort,
|roni, than
fs, and of
>rtion even

In, having
lur to ex-

plain the plans and pro.spocls of (he service, with iIk' means adopted
to guard against privation, and Ui scmmmc the party from those dis-
asters to which they might otherwise be subject ; and I had the
high gratification of receiving (he royal approbation of these plans,
and a gracious expression of sincere desire for the safely of my
party.

Their Hoyal Highnesses the Duchess of Kent and Piinccss Vic-
toria also received a deputation, consisting of Nice Admiral Sir
<«eorge Cockburn, Captains IJecchcy and Maconochie, with myself,
for the purpose of pointing out on the chart the line of the proposed
route, submitting, at the same time, a sketch of the intended pro-
ceedings ; — on which occasion their Hoyal Highnesses evinced a
tridy benevolent interest in the expedition. INor was the Duke of
Sussex less solicitous to forward the undertaking, as I had the ho-
nour to receive a letter from his Koyal Highness, recommending
me to the attentions of Doctor Hossack, a scientific gentleman at
New \ ork.

Finally, it was deemed expedient, on many accounts, but more
especially to give me additional authority over the men whom I
might engage for the service, that my mission should be taken under
the direction of his Majesty's (government ; and accordingly I re-
ceived from the Secretary of State for the Colonies the following
instructions: —

"Colonial OlVico, Downing Slrcct.lth February, 1833.

" Sir, — The Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty having been
pleased to lend your services to this office, that you may conduct an
expedition now preparing to proceed to the Polar Sea in search of
Captain Uoss, you arc hereby required and directed to undertake this
service, |)laciug yourself for the purpose at the disposition of the Cio-
vernor and Committee of the Hudson's Bay Company, who have un-
dertaken to furnish you with the requisite resources and supplies.

" Vou are lo leave Liverpool early in the present month, and pro-
ceed with your i)arty by way of New York lo Montreal, and thence

* Besides being liberal subscribers to the expedition, their Royal Highnesses
sent nie, some days afterwards, a pocket compass and a case ol' inatheuiatical in-
strunicuts, as a coutributiuii to tis sciculilic equipment; audi shall not attempt to
describe the CMtliusiasui which these tokens ol' the interest taken by them in our
benevolent mission afterwards crcaflpd, not only in British North America, but also
ui the United States. It will be seen in a future part of my Narrative, that this
compass, from its extreme delicacy, becaHie afterwards of essential service.

fff

S I'HI'LIMINAIIY CIIAI'TEU.

along Iho usual route pursuod by l\w iiorlh-wosl traders to Ureal Slave
Lako, whirli it is hoped you will reach by the 20lh of July. V'ou are
(hen to strike oil to the north-eastward, or in sucli other direction as
you may ascertain to he most expedient, in order to gain the Thlow-ee-
choh-desseth, or (jreat Fish River, which is believed cither to issue
from Slave Lake, or to rise in its vicinity, and thence to (low with a
navigable course to the northward, till it reaches the sea. On arriving
on the banks of this river, you are to select a convenient situation lor
a winter residence, and immediately appoint a portion of your force to
erect a house thereon ; but, if possible, you are to proceed yourself, with
an adequate parly, and explore the river to the coast the same season,
erecting a conspicuous land-mark at its mouth, and leaving notice of
your intention to return the ensuing spring, in case Captain Ross
should be making progress along this part of the shore.

■" You are to take care, however, to return before the commence-
ment of the winter, to avoid any undue exposure of your men. Dur-
ing the winter you are construct two boats, capable, in your opinion, of
navigating the Pol"'* Sea ; and as early as possible in the ensuing spring
you are to descend i ii to its shores.

" Your proceedinjj afterwards must be much guided by your own
judgniont. The lirst cbject will be to reach Cape darry, where
his Majesty's late sliip Fury was wrecked ; on the remaining stores of
which it is known that Captain Ross in some measure relied : but in
making for this, whether by the east or west, you must be governed by
the position of the mouth of the river, and other local circumstances,
as you progressively ascertain them.

" While passing along the coast, you are to keep a vigilant look-
out upon the shore for any signal or indication of the party of which
you are in search (particularly at the entrance of the Hecla and Fury
Strait, should you take the eastern passage) ; and in the event of your
meeting them, previous to your arrival at Cape Garry, you are to
olTer to return immediately, and bring them with you to the Hudson's
Ray scttlemenls. Or shoidd you find any indication of their having
been on any part of the coast before your arrival, you are to search
minutely for some memorial which may lead to the discovery of their
intentions; and to proceed, in the event of success, in whatever prac-
ticable direction may seem best calculated to lead you to them.

" Devoting the summer, then, to the interesting search in contem-
plation, it is unnrjossary to recommend to you to make it as effectual
as possible, consistently with a due regafd for the health and preser-
vation of your party. Rut, whatever ipay be its prospects or success,
you are ou no account to prolong it beyond such a period of the year
(varying from the 12lh to the 20lh of August, according to the distance*

I

I'REMMiNAUY niAPTKIl.

0

s to (ireal Slave
Inly. You are
KT direction as
I ihi! Thlow-ce-
I cither to issue
I to flow with a
1. On arriving
7nl situation fur
A your force to
J yourself, with
»e same season,
;aving notice of
) Captain Ross

lie commence-
ur men. Dur-
four opinion, of
ensuing spring

!(! by your own
Garry, where
lining stores of

relied : but in
)e governed by

ircumstances,

vigilant look-
irty of which
cla and Furv
event of your
you are to
the Hudson's
their having
ire to search
very of their
atever prac-
hem.

in contem-

as elTectual

[and preser-

or success,

of the year

llho distance

<

which you may have attained) as will insure your return to your
winter (piarters before the severe weather seta in. On your acting in
this particular with due caution may depend the eventual success of
the whole expedition. On your return to your temporary establish-
ment, vou are carefully to examine the state of your su[)plies; if pos-
sible, also, communicating with (Ireat Slave Lake, to ascertain whether
additional stores arc; there collected for you. And if you lind that you
can, with reasonable prudence, devote a second summer to the ser-
vice on wIukIi you are engaged, you are hereby re«piired and directed
to do so; but if not, you arc to return to England in the following
spring.

" Subordinate to your object of linding Captain Ross, or any sur-
vivors or survivor of his party, you are to direct your attention to
mapping what yet remains unknown of the coasts which you will visit,
and making such other scientilic observations as your leisure will ad-
mit; for which purposes the requisite instruments will be supplied to
you. Rut you are not for such objects to deviate from your |)rincipal
pursuit, until you shall have either succeeded in its accomplishment,
or satisfactorily ascertained that its success is impossible.

" Vou are, during your absence, to embrace any opportunities that
may oiler of corresponding with this Office, and report your nrrival
here on your return.

" 1 have the honour to be. Sir,

" V'our obedient servant,

" (lODERICH."
" Captain George Uaik, R.N. '21. Kegeiit Street."

Strengthened by this authority, as well as by the commission
from the Hudson's Bay Company, which ordered every assistance
to be rendered me by the different officers in tlieir territories, there
now wanted only an efficient medical man to take care of the health
of the party. This was found in Mr, Richard King, who, having in
the first instance volunteered his services, was subsequently engaged,
at a salary, as surgeon and naturalist to the expedition. Three men
only (two of whom were carpenters and shipwrights) were taken
Irom Enijland: the remainder, as will hereafter be seen, were se-
lected either IVoui 3Iontreal or from the Company's posts in the in-
terior.

To present at one view the objects, pui [)Ose, and direction of
the service, the execution of which is narrated in the following
pages, it will be proper to mention here, that exactly one year after
our departure from Canada, by a despatch which had been for-

10

I'HElilMINARY (IIIAPTEU.

warded with the most praiseworiliy diligence by tlie Hudson's Hay
Company, I received the liappy intelhgence of Captain Ross's pro-
vidential return, communicated in the lollowing letter from Sir
(Charles Ogle, Haronct : —

Arctic Land /'Expedition.

f

a

w

!:!

Ill

. i

•21. Regent .Strei\

•i2d Oct. mv.i.

" Sir, — I have much pleasure in acquaintino; you, on trie part of
the Commilloe for managing your expedition, that Captain lloss and
the survivors of his party returned to England a few days ago, in a
whaler, which picked them up in Barrow Straits; and that thus one
object of vour expedition is happily attained.

" In concert, therefore, with his Majesty's Government (though
the signature of the Secretary of State for the Colonies cannot be im-
mediately procured, in consequence of his absence from town), you
are hereby directed to turn your whole attention to your second object,
viz. completing the coast line of the north-eastern (^xtremily of America.
You will observe, from the enclosed abstract of Captain Ross's pro-
ceedings, that this, also, is become an object of comparatively easy
acquisition. Byprocceding first to Point Turnagain, and thence east-
ward to an obelisk in about 69" 37' N. and 98* AO' W., which marks
the lermination of Captain Boss's progress, — or, vice versa, by pro-
ceeding first to this obelisk, and thence westward, — it is believed that
you may accomplish all that is now wanting in one season. But even
should this prove impossible, and you find that a second season on
the coast is jlesirable, I believe that I may confidently assure you that
the means will be obtained for that purpose.

" Your choice of routes will of course depend on the point where
the Thlew-ee-choh joins the sea ; on which head, therefore, the Com-
mitlee has few or no observations to olTer. If, as Governor Simpson
imagines, it falls into BaUiurst's Inlet, and is identical with Back's
HiNcr (here ; you will of course proceed thence to the eastward ; or
if any branch of it, or any other river you may meet wiUi, turn de-
cidedly to the westward or eastward, the Committee would rather
recommend your endeavouring in this case to start from one or other
extremity. But beyond this it can olTer no hints.

" I cannot conclude, however, without earnestly recommending lo
you, in its name and that of all the subscribers to and promoters of
your expedition, to be careful not to expose yourself and men to un-

* 'I'h'.' extraordinary rxppililiou with which this despatch was transmitted is
wortliy of being recorded; and I liave, therefore, in the Appendix, given a few
jiarticulars which will he interesting to the reader.

PRELIMINARY CHAPTER.

II

e Hudson's Hay
•tain Ross's pro
letter from Sir

\ 22d Oct. 1S3S.

, on tlio part of

iptain Hoss and

(lays ago, in a

id that thus onn

rnmont (though
5 cannot be im-
'om town), you
tr second object,
nity of America,
lin Ross's pro-
paratively easy
nd thcncj east-
i, which marks
)crsd, by pro-
is believed that
son. But even
ond season on
issure you that

e point where

Tore, the Coni-

rnor Simpson

1 with Back's

[eastward ; or

[ilh, turn de-

^ould rather

one or other

unending lo

||)romolors of

men to un-

|trnnsmittr<l is
I, given .1 few

necessary hazard. The satisfaction which we all experience in receiv-
ing Captain Boss again is very great ; but it will be much impaired by
any casualties in your expedition.

" I have the honour to be, Sir,

" Your obedient humble servant.

" Charles Oolk, Chairman.

"P. S. — As we arc not yet quite certain of obtaining funds for a

third year (although reasonably confident that his Majesty's (jovern-

nient will, if necessary, supply them), you will be entirely guided,

with- r(>gard to it, by further instructions which will be forwarded lo

you in the course of next season, and which you will receive on your

return to your winter quarters.

"C. ()."

The instructions alluded to were never sent, and had they been
so, would have been unavailable. For, first, the difficulties already
encountered had by that time proved, that any further attempt by
the Thiew-ee-choh would be as rash as its result would be fruit-
less ; secondly, the hope of crossing the country direct to Bathurst's
Inlet or in any other direction leading towards Point Turnagain,
had long been relinquished, in cfnsequence of the unanimous testi-
mony of the Indians, as to the insurmountable obstacles that would
oppose the transport of canoes, and even the requisite provision for
so !jng and arduous a journey. The whole of the streams west of
the Thlew-ee-choh, within the knowledge of the Indians, are its
tributaries, and are too shallow and rapid and too much interrupted
with rocks and other dangerous obstructions, to be navigable in any
thing larger than a small canoe. There remained, therefore, but
one way of penetrating to the sea, viz. by traversing the intervening
mountains ; and this, with such boats or canoes as would carry even
the very limited number of men that composed my party, was to
tally impracticable. Had I not been fully convinced of this, I
should, in the hope of accomplishing one of the great objects of my
mission, have undoubtedly ventured to remain out another seasoi.,
even though such an act had not received the sanction of the Com-
mittee.

The other points of my instructions were followed up to the best
of my ability, as, it is humbly hoped, will be demonstrated in the
narrative which follows.

I cannot, however, close this preliminary statement, without con-
veying the public expression of my thanks to Mr. Hichard King,

i'i

'^HEXIM/XARY CHAPTER.

.^1 I

;K

f^ ,. "^^AKY CHAPTER

The men, ak„, ,„d parUcular ! .. "''''"'"'■>' '"'«'•

i^uraeroMs, mdeed, are ih. u,

«'■'!"'-■ gave It T'""'' •""'' i" England and A ''"' '" "
"erprise 4 °.''"'^'* ^^^'^'ance al differ"; "^ '^""'•"^' *ho

British a''''".^'''''"-^^ ^'ave just heard nf 1^"'"'' '''"'''"'' '«33-

h-H". froml™."" '" '" =""■ " -" «-e me pleasure ,„ ,0, on
" Wi(h sincere regard,

" Vours very truly,

" (In haste,)
"S. Db Witt BiooDcooB.

" t^apt. Back. "

r

c
id
I a

C

c

pi

th

pi

fo:
pa
Cf
de
an
am

PRELIMINARY (MIAI'TER.

Vi

ity, and the readi-
e his services w ere
er collections have
spaiation of a table

od, the narrative
Ited to indulge ray
te of my gratitude
d ability which he
f kind.

icompanied me to
ey undertook, and
heir general con-
e three artillery-
ehavioiir furnish-
!rs, and fully ac-
ch induced them

I am under to a
d America, who
ages of the en-
lowledgment of
I am sure, will
I'e at Montreal,
ing got abroad
[dition were de-
wing commu-

April 29, 1833.
^ruction of the
suffered loss,
^can friends to
Ireplacing any

kire to do, on

>DC0OD.

Any comment on a letter so honourable to the liberal and public-
spirited writer would be supertluou?. Suc^l a generous act will be
duly estimated by every English reader.

To my friend Dr. Kichardson I owe a large debt of gratitude for
many most useful suggestions, and for his friendly aid in general.
The public also is his debtor, not only for the valuable matter con-
tained in the fourth Chapter, but also for the exposition of the Na-
tural History which is found in the Appendix.

Nor are my obligations less to Professor Christie, of Woolwich,
for his valuable assistance in selecting some of the instruments, and
for his examination and analysis of the results of the observations
made with them. I am also indebted to Professor Hooker, J. G.
Children, Esq., and Dr. Fitton, for their kind assistance in different
departments of science.

Of the great and unappreciable service afforded by the Governor,
Deputy Governor, and Directors of the Hudson's Bay Company, I
have already spoken ; but 1 should be indeed ungrateful, if 1 were
not to add that their benevolent intentions were zealously fulfilled,
and theirjudicious arrangements carried into complete effect by Mr.
Simpson, the resident Governor, and the various officers in the
service of the Company. Those who reflect how much, if not how
entirely, the success of an expedition like that which I had the ho-
nour to command must necessarily have depended on the aid and
co-operation of these gentlemen, will feel how incumbent it is on me
to acknowledge, as I now do, with sincere and fervent gratitude, the
prompt attention, the ready assistance, and the provident care for
our wants, manifested by all and each of them in their respective
departments. Thus, for the complete and effective arrangements
at Montreal 1 am indebted to Mr. James Keith, the agent of the
Company at La Chine. At Norway House, chief factors Christie,
Cameron, Rowand, and Lewis rendered me important service in the
procuring of a crew, and suggested whatever useful information
their experience and knowledge of the country enabled them to sup-
ply. By Mr. Christie, indeed, the whole of the winter stock was
forwarded to the establishment at Foit Reliance. Neither can I
pass over in silence the efficient and valuable services of chief factors
Charles, Smith, Sluarl, and M'Kenzic, sen.; of Mr. D. Ross at the
depc^t of Norway House; Messrs. D. M'Intosh, Miles, Hargraves,
and M'Murray, chief traders; and of Messrs. Hutchinson, Brislois,
and Cloiiston, ch'iks. The frank and liospilahle kindness which

11

J 1

DEPAUnuE FROM ENGLAND.

^as shown bv all ti\ ir

The courtesy of Hi^ r n "'"^'""^^ '^^dgment. ^

attentions of th^ wonhy ^i^^o'^^^^^^^ ^"^ '^« ^'-iryin,

-urse to be attributed rathe to their b.". "' ^"^ ^'''''^ «- «'
W'a.n purpose of the expedition /i?'"'"^' ^^^P^^hy with the
-■- had beenselectedTo::^^^^^^^^^^

•« more honourable to them Zl !" ^^S^'-^ed, their conduct

va -a and held in renj^^r r^ ^ J"^ ^ ^'"^ "^^ ^'^^ ^-
n^'ght avour of presumption ; but l! t .^',fP''^«« '''// thanks
"y/eelings, in order that the 1, ' ' ''^''"^^ "^ '•^^O'-^ing
British Public. ^^'' '"'^"^^ "'ay be rendered by the

If i

:;l {

CHAPTER f.

«e,.ar|nre from England. ~ Arrival .fM .

1 rocunng Men for the Service. ^ Departure fro,^;""'^ """'^^ ' ^i,

orway House.

■nor
Dif-

„ ■■■V ^luuse,

Wtain Maxwell, ,i.„,„L,. '7;^ '"l-e packet ,hip Hibemia,
passage of ,hi„y.fi,, days, du, ■„!"!' ,''?'""■»"'■''' boMerouJ
-.angled a™„„g,, i„, ^' ^ "GeoCl n t"'' '"^ '""'P -»
York. We were received wUheverv^! "''' '"■'•'^<"' "' New
hospilality eo„,d dic,a.e. The u2 " """ l"""^"^^^ »"''
were dispensed ,vi.h i„ our favour aLr,"' "'" C'-s.om-h„u«
'o/acimale an u„der,aki„g t„ .hV '" " t'^''"'^'""^'' """ious
■"toe., was mauifeseed. Teplril;! "''"'' "■«=»armest
offered that n„e vessel lor o„, coXv ' '^'""' ''"^"'-boM,

s<ar.ed f™m,l,ewharf,„pwards : 1 1°" "J '"'""^^ ""''- "^ ^'
wuh our friend !VIr. BucLan "he '" .l"'"""'-"^-"" P^rsous,
save us three hearty cheers "'"'' ™"^"l' « 'I'eir head

(

<]

V
V

ai
tl

ch
ofc
Hi
mi
an

the

Iat(

to

wa;
off
thai
whii
thro
Mas

me t

AURIVAL AT MONTREAL.

15

V l)c forgotten by

md the gratifying
Sew York, are of
ympathy witli the
for the individual
3d, their conduct
time not the less
press mt/ thanks
3rty of recording
rendered by the

IS for the Expedition.
It. Lawrence. — The
iyal at Fort WiUiani.
jac (le la Piuie. —
ival of Governor
ay House. — Dif-
jrway House.

panied by Mr.

ned experience

ihip Hibernia,

hat boisterous

the ship was

lived at New

ooliteness and

/ustom-house

|emed anxious

the warmest

|, steam-boat,

and, as we

>sed persons,

their head,

' From Albany we travelled in coaches or waggons, according (o
the quality of the roads; and reached Montreal on the JUh of April,
a day earlier than i had promised six months before. Mr. Keith,
the principal officer of the Hudson's Bay Company at La Chine,
lost no time in acquainting me that preparations for the expedition
were in a forward state, and would be ready by the appointed time.
He entertained, however, some doubt whether he could himself
obtain the required number of able r<nf(i(/eurs ; and thought that
they might be selected, with greater advantage to the service, from
among the old " winterers" resorting to a depot of the Company in
the interior, which I siiould necessarily have to pass. He also
informed me that despatches, sent from England, had been forwarded
to the resident governor, Mv. Simpson; who, being thus apprised of
our movements, would be enabled to co-operate accordingly.

IVo sooner was it known in Montreal that our little party was in
one of the hotels, than the commandant, Lieutenant-Colonel iMac-
dougall, of the 79th regin^ent, and the officers of the garrison, as
well as the principal inhaoitants of the town, waited upon us, and
vied with each other in administering to ourconiforts, and rendering
as agreeable as possible the short time which remained to us for
the enjoyment of civilised society.

1 availed myself of this interval to ascertain the rates of the
chronometers with the nicest precision, and to make a set of
observations for the dip and magnetic intensity, with Dollond's and
Hansteen's needles; which operations, with the numerous arrange-
ments necessary for completing our outfit, fully occupied Mr. King
and myself until our departure.

Neither was I without a foretaste of the anxiety inseparable from
the service on which I had embarked. A refractory spirit had of
late been manisfesled by two of my three men, who even threatened
to proceed no further; for no better reason than a sudden and
wayward apprehension of a journey, which the strong expression
of public sympathy had taught them to regard as beset with more
than ordinary perils. However, by convincing them of the disgrace
which would attend a desertion, and then despatching them at once,
through the means of Mr. Keith, to a distant post of the Company, [
was enabled to retain their services, which J was not without hope
^would, in the sequel, turn to good account. Still this incident taught
;ine the little dependence that could be placed on men who shrank

15

FIRE AT THE HOTEL.

from dangers in prospect and were ready to abandon an expedition
in which, but two months before, they had engaged with the utmos:
alacrity and zeal : and as Captain Anderson, of the (jth battalion o
Royal Artillery, had intimated the eager desire of several of hh
best men to accompany me, I wrote to Lord Aylmer, the Governor
general, and His Excellency was pleased to sanction the discharge
of four for that purpose. Colonel Godby was equally kind ir
affording me assistance; and, strengthened by those volunteers, I fel
that I had now a ch^ck on any that might hereafter prove refractory
as well as the comfortable assurance of having those with me or
whom I could rely in the utmost need.

On the evening of the 24th of April a fire broke out in our hotel
just as we were about to quit it. The performance of the Bohemian
brothers had brought together a numerous assemblage, principal!}
of ladies; and such was the fury of the flames, that for many the
upper windows afforded the only means of escape. Luckily, mj
baggage was, for the greater part, removed; and thus, though mos*
of the property in the house was consumed, I had chielly to regrci
the loss of my only available barometer. The two which I had
brought from England had been damaged in the veyage, and could
not be repaired at Montreal; and the one thus unfortunately losi
had been most kindly obtained and presented by Mr. Walker, to
whom we were under many other obligations.

As I was compelled to hire a certain number of voi/agenrs for
the expedition, and they are generally an extremely superstitions
race, there was reason to apprehend that I might find a difficulty in
doing so, if, as was not unlikely, they chose to construe as an evil
omen this untoward accident, marking the moment of our depar-
ture. I must own, therefore, that it was with some pleasure that,
on arriving at La Chine the following morning (April 25th), ac-
companied by my friend Colonel Macdougall, I found them far too
assiduous in their libations to Bacchus, to be subject to any less po-
tent influences.

Notwithstanding the alarm and confusion of the preceding night,
a number of the officers of the garrison, and many of the respec-
table inhabitants, collected spontaneously together, to offer us a last
tribute of kindness. We embarked amidst the most enthusiastic
cheers, and firing of musketry. The two canoes shot rapidly
through the smooth waters of the canal, and were followed by the

THE OTTAWA.

11

ndon an expedition
;ed with the utmos;
he (jth battalion o
! of several of hi;
ner, the Governoi
3lion the discharge
IS equally kind in
se volunteers, I fell
r prove refractory
those witli me or

<e out in our hotel
36 of the Bohemian
iblage, principal!}
Ihat for many the
ape. Luckily, m\
1 thus, though most
id chieily to regrci
two which I had
veyage, and could
unfortunately lost
y Mr. Walker, to

)( royaf/eiirs for
lely superstitious
|nd a difficulty in
istrue as an evil
Int of our depar-
le pleasure that,
Lpril 25th), ac-
id them I'ar too
It to any less po-

receding night,

of the respec-

offer us a last

fst enthusiastic

shot rapidly

)llowed hy the

dense crowd on the banks. A few minutes brought us to the St.
Lawrence, and, as we turned the sterns of our little vessels up that
noble stream, one long loud huzza bade us farewell!

Both our maitre-caHot, * and the other, which was of smaller
dimensions, were rather lumbered than loaded. Every package
had been reduced or augmented to a "piec^" of 90 lbs. v/eight; and,
as there were only about fifty of these altogether, we were what is
termed " half-loaded," and in a condition, therefore, to make rea-
sonable speed, with any thing like an efficient crew. In our case,
however, there was an unavoidable mixture of old hands and
^'•mattgenrH de lord" or green-horns; and there was scarcely one
who had failed to take advantage of the last opportunity of getting
drunk. At the head of them was Paul, an old Iroquois guide, who
was, however, otherwise invaluable, as, I really believe, he knew
the situation of every dangerous rock in the whole line of rapids
between Montreal and Hudson's Bay.

Turning off to the right, we entered the Ottawa, which (like
the Moselle after its confluence with the Rhine) for some distance
below the junction rolls on its brown waters unmixed with the clear
stream of the St. Lawrence. On coming abreast of a village, near
which stood a large cross, a few paces from the church, the more
devout of the voifar/eurs went on shore, and, standing in a musing
posture, implored the protection of the patron saint in the perilous
enterprise on which they were embarked ; while their companions,
little affected by their piety, roared out to them to "s'eM<6«/Y/wer,"
and paddled away to the merry tune of a lively canoe song. We
soon reached the rapid of St. Anne; and, having ascended it with a
trifling injury to one of the canoes, we encamped on an island in
the pretty Lake of the Two Mountains.

As our route was precisely the same with that followed by the
Company's people every season, which has been discribed by Sir
A. M'Kenzie, as well as by more modern travellers, j- a minute de-
tail of our progress seems unnecessary; and it will be sufficient
merely to indicate a few of the principal places in the line of country
from La Chine to the south-west end of Great Slave Lake, from
which point the discovery properly begins. By the kindness of
Colonel Duvernet, the canoes were permitted to go through the go-

* A large canoe used belwecn Montreal and Fort William, on the banks of Lake
Superior.

t Hennaini, Ross, Cox, Sir .1. Franklin, Major Long, &( .

Ih

LAKE IIUHON.

', i

if

f '

vcrnincnl canal, v. Iiicli cuts ort' the ilangerous rapid ol' the iont/
Sault. They were afterwards towed by the steam- boat which plies
between that place and IJytown, a village beautit'ully situated on the
heights between the Hideau and the Chauditire Falls ; in which
latter, only the evening before, several raftsmen had been unfortu-
nately engulfed. Lieutenant Kains, who commanded the steam-
boat, could not be prevailed on to accept any remuneration for the
important service thus rendered to us.

During the night, two of our young hands deserted; a casualty,
however, which did not give me any uneasiness, and relieved me
from any further apprehension on their account, indeed, the pro-
bability of such an event is usually taken into account by those who
are accustomed to this mode of travelling, and a few extra men are
generally engaged as a reserve.

April 28.— Having arrived at a portage — by which term, it is
almost unnecessary to say, is understood a place where, by reason
of some obstruction to the navigation, it is necessary to carry the
baggage and canoes — we were kindly invited to breakfast at the
house of an Indian fur trader of the name of Day. This old gen-
tleman declared, that his feelings were so warmly excited by the
praiseworthy object of the expedition, that he could hardly refrain,
even at his advanced age, from offering his services. At one of the
Company's posts, called Fort des Chats, I found my three men who
had been sent from Montreal; and', having embarked them, with
seventeen "pieces" out of nineteen which had been forwarded by
the steam-boat, we proceeded along rapids, which more or less
detained us until we got to Fort Coulonge. The houses above this
were far apart, and the population comparatively thin; but, on my
return in 1 835, I was agreeably surprised to see many comfortable
dwellings erected in the interval, surrounded by smiling corn lields,
and animated by groups of both sexes, wlio looked from the win-
dows or stood on the banks to see us pass.

Leaving the Ottawa, we diverged to the lest, up a deep and black
stream, so overhung by sombre rocks and withered strees, and so
bleak and lifeless, that it seemed the very home of melancholy and
despair, and forced upon my recollection an admirable painting
representing Sadak in search of the waters of oblivion. It took us
to Lake Nipising, w'aonce we descended by the Riviere des Fran-
lais into Lake Huron ; oiu- progress through which was so impeded
bv fogs and head wind, (hat it was not until May lllh that we

THE SAULT DE Sii: MARIF.

10

pid ol" tlio iotnj
boat which plies
f situated on the
*'alls ; in vvliich
d been imfortu-
ided the steam-
ineration for ll»e

ited ; a casualty,
and relieved ine
Indeed, the pro-
nt by those who
w extra men are

Audi term, it is

vhcre, by reason

ary to carry the

breakfast at the

This old gen-

y excited by the

d hardly refrain,

s. At one of the

three men who

ked them, with

In forwarded by

h more or less

uses above this

jhin; but, on my

ny comfortable

ing corn lields,

from the win-

leep and black
strees, and so
Melancholy and
liable painting
It took us
lere des Fran-
is so impeded
ll Ith that we

jeached the Sault de vSte. >Iarie, at the head of the lake, and the
t \lreme point to which civilisation has yet extended.

Some surprise was testified at our early arrival by my old ac-
(juaintance Mv. Belhune, who informed mc that the vast quantily of
lloating ice on Lake Superior had prevented his forwanlitig the
despatches mentioned by Mr. Keith before the 1st of the month; so
that, in reality, they were only eleven days in advance of me, though
sent from England in December. My only regret at this circumstance
was, the very limited time which would be thus afforded i>Ir. Simp-
son for aiding the expedition in the ellicient manner to which, I was
well assured, his zeal would prompt him. As yet, I had not one
third of the necessary number of volunteers to go through the ser-
vice; and there were many other important arrangements that
could be satisfactorily made by the resident governor alone.

Owing to the scarcity of provisions in the interior, it became ad-
•visable to take a supply for i\ve weeks; and a third canoe vias pur-
chased to assist in carrying it. Before leaving the Sault, I waited
on the officers of the American garrison, accompanied by the gen-
tlemen of the Company; and it is almost superlluous to say, that we
experienced a reception in perfect keeping with the strong feeling of
interest which had been manifested for us throughout the state of
!New York. But the commanding officer, Captain Baxly, not sa-
tisfied with the ordinary courtesies of polite attention, sent us a
more substantial proof of his kindness, in the shape of prepared ve-
nison, tongues, sweet corn, and many other dainties ; which, though
most welcome on their own account, were, in my estimation, still
more valuable for the feeling which had prompted the present.

IVothing beyond the ordinary causes of detention occurred while
crossing the northern extremity of Lake Superior. At a post called
the Pic, we were liberally supplied with fresh butter and fish by my
old friend Mr. M'Murray, who would willingly have had us remain
the night with him. The inviting appearance of the weather in-
duced us to decline his hospitality; and it was not a little mortifying,
therefore, to find ourselves soon enveloped in a dense fog, which
baffled the skill of the guide, and compelled us to land.

On the 20th of May we arrived at Fort William, much to the
astonishment of Mr. D. M'Intosh, the gentleman in charge, who as-
sured us that the light canoes of the preceding season had been
• fully twelve days later. It was here that the large canoes were to
beexchanged for smaller, better calculated toovercomc thenumerous

■I

1/ ivl

l> -m

SiU

DISTKIBUTION 01' THE LOADING^

iinpedimenls which obstruct the navigation ol the inland rivers,
and I had every reason to be satisfied with the two beautiful ones
which had been constructed for the purpose, by the direction ol
ijiovcrnor Simpson, and under the superintendence oflVlr. M'Intosh

An entire day was now devoted to the examining and repacking
of our various stores and instruments. Our" North Canoe," brought
from Montreal, was also repaired; for, lumbered as we were with
provisions, it was found impracticable to ascend the shallow waters
of the Kaminestiquoia without taking her, in addition to the two
new ones; and 1 did this the less reluctantly, as no extra expense
was thus incurred, and there were hands enough to manage the
three.

The Canadian voj/ar/pur is, in all respects, a peculiar character;
and on no point is he more sensitive, or, rather, to use an expressive
term, more tonchy^ than in the just distribution of " pieces" among
the several canoes forming a party. It must be admitted, at the
same time, that he has very substantial reasons for being parliculai
in this matter, for he well knows that supposing the canoes to be in
other respects equally matched, a very small inequality of weight
will make a considerable difference in their relative speed, and will
occasion, moreover, a longer detention at the portages. The usual
mode is for the guide to separate the pieces, and then to distribute
or portion them out by lots, holding in his hand little sticks of dif-
ferent lengths, which the leading men draw . From the decision so
made there is no appeal, and the parties go away laughing or grum
bling at their different fortunes. These important preliminaries,
therefore, being settled to the tolerable satisfaction of those con-
cerned, we took leave of our friendly host, and encamped at thf
imposing fall of Kakabikka, by the voifafieurs commonly called tin
Mountain Fall. This has been well and graphically described by
Major Long ' and Sir J. Franklin; + in magnitude it is inferior onlv
to the Niagara or the Falls of Wilberforce, whilst it far surpasse-
both in picturesque effect.

On the 26th, the despatch canoe (a sort of mail) overtook us at
ihe Savannah portage ; and I gladly seized the opportunity it afforded
me of sending a letter to Mr. Simpson, with a requisition for men
and stores, and a request that he would do me the favour lo mak^^

" N.irrative of an Expedition to SI. Color's Uiver, Luke Winiipprg, \.r
" Second .lonrnry lo tlie Polar Sea."

U'

F.AC DE LA FLU IE.

J I

he inland livcis,
wo beautiful ones
y the diroclion oi
Bof3Ir. M'Intosh
ing and repacking
1 Canoe," brought
as we were with
ic shallow waters
Idition to the two
no extra expense
;h to manage the

eculiar character;

use an expressive

I " pieces" among

admitted, at the

ir being parliculai

le canoes to be in

equality of weight

ve speed, and will

ages. The usual

then to distributr

ttle sticks of dif-

im the decision so

|ughing or grum

nt preliminaries

n of those con

ncamped at thf

only called tht

lly described b\

It is inferior onl}

it far surpasses

overtook us ai

[unity it afTorded

iisiliou for men

favour to makf

lipprg, \.(;

^M

certain inquiries as to the most practicable route to the Thlew-ee-
choh-dezeth. * •

While descending the narrow and encumbered stream of the
Savannah, William Dlalley, one of my volunteer artillerymen,
slipped oil' a Hoating tree, as he was attempting to open a passage
for the canoes, and narrowly escaped being drowned ; but he bore
the accident with so much indid'erence and good humour as to call
forth the admiration of Paul, who at once predicted that he would
make a good voyuf/eur.

On the 31st, we crossed Lac de la Pluic, which well sustained
its name and character, by receiving us with a pelting rain which
tirenched us to the skin. There was neither meat nor fish at the
Company's establishment, and, owing to the failure of the crops,
scarcely any rice (wild rice, Folle arvine^ Zizania rtr/?m/?'ca), which
is generally abundant at this solitary station, growing in the swampy
ground round the lake. We encamped on a small island in the
liakc of the Woods, which was literally covered with a dwarf
species of prickly pear {(^actuH opuntia)^ much to the annoyance
of (he men, whose feet were soon stuck fuU of its irritating prickles.

< )n the 0th of June wc arrived at Fort Alexander, situated at
the southern extremity of Lake Winnepeg. Here I had hoped to
thul the governor, and was not a little disappointed when informed
by Mr. Clouston, the gentleman in charge, that it might be several
(lays before he arrived ; though, as the despatch canoe had left the
day before, there was every reason to suppose that he was by that
lime in possession of my letter, and, therefore, would naturally infer
that 1 could not be far off. Important as every hour was to the
accomplishment of my plans, it was of still greater moment to me
to see Mr. Simpson personally ; and, aware of the probability of our
passing each other unobserved, if I attempted to hasten towards him
in a canoe, I preferred the alternative of remaining quietly at the
establishment, and so securing an interview which I so ardently de-
sired.

To beguile the time, the stores were examined, and the few which
the rain had damaged were exposed to the sun, dried, and carefully
repacked. I also made a set of observations for the dip. Tlic

' De/.cth, (lossoh, trssy, \c licing only (lie same word for river, will in fiKiir'
I'c omitted ill tiie NiU'ratiVe.

■li

ONE OF THE PARTY SOLICITS HIS DlSCIIAKG!:

I

result was 70" \2 ', making a dilVtMcnco of 2'* niinules Irom iIiom
taken on a roinioi* occasion. Tlic vilnations and <lip were ascer
tained alternately, according to the ("ace of the instrument; and all
were satisfactory enough, except needle No. 2, rervrscd^ with the
lace of the instrument east, when a considerable .ilteration appeared
both in the number of the vibrations and the point at which the
needle linally rested. A second trial showed a similar discrepancy
The reason of tiiis peculiarity I could not divine until about an hour
afterwards, when some gentlemen arrived from the westward, and
acipiaintcd us that they had just encountered a severe thundei
shower, though the sky over the fort underwent no visible change,
and wore the same sultry aspect as it had done most of the forenoon

Amongst the people who had accompanied us from IMonlreal,
was a tall line-looking fellow of the name of Larke, who had volun-
teered, and, indeed, had taken a great deal of trouble to get entered,
for the expedition, lie had passed a part of his life in the woods,
was particularly well (|uaiiticd lor such an imdertaking, and had
attracted universal admiration by his apparent determination to
brave all dilliculties. This man now, however, came to me, and
in a humble tone solicited his discharge, as, to use his own phrase,
" ho was sure we should be all starved to death ;" and so iirmly was
this unmanly resolution fixed in his mind, that he declared nothing
should force him to go on. It is unnecessary to say that such
pusillanimous weakness was utterly irreconcilable with an enterprise
like that in which we were engaged, which demanded an entire
sacrifice of home comforts, and an enthusiastic and unreflecting
ardour in the prosecution of its objects. I was not sorry, therefore,
that the disease had shown itself so early ; for, had it broken out
liereafter, at a more critical period of the adventure, the infection
might have spread in a manner too formidable for remedy. He
had his wish, and with it a recommendation, at the same time, to
the Company to oblige him to serve, in some distant part, the full
term of his three years' engagement.

-Mr. H. Berens, who was on his way to Canada from the Ked
Kivcr (^olony, brought me the pleasing intelligence that Mr. Simp-
son would very shortly follow; and as the latter gentleman was

[\

M

III

Tlir I'l'sults iii'c (liosr ^Immi l>y lli' iiisiiiimrnl, w itliont any correction l'o»
IcniiHM'aliii'c.

iAUQL'

Hilos from tliOMi'

<lip were ascer

ilrument; and all

rrrscd, with llio

eration appeared

nt at which the

ilar discrepancy

:il about an hoiii

c westward, and

severe thunder

o visible change,

of tiie forenoon

from Montreal,

who had volun-

le togel entered,

fe in the woods,

taking, and had

etermination to

jme to me, and

his own phrase,

id so firmly was

eclared nothing

say that such

h an enterprise

|nded an entire

unreflecting

rry, therefore,

it broken out

the infection

remedy. He

arae lime, to

part, the full

loin the l{cd
U Mr. Simp-
itleman was

coireclioii I'oj

AlUtlVAL OF (50VF.IIN0H SIMI'SON.

•l'.\

« .ihoiil (o return to Kiiglaud, vvithoiil proceeding to the depot at
iNorway House, it was fortunate that I had (lelermiiied on remain-
ing, though it was certain thai nothing which prudence and ex-
perience could suggest would have been omitted to promote my
views. I learned from Mr. Herens that the colony at Ked Kiver was
in a prosperous state ; and that notwithstanding the failure of the
crops last season, meat was from three halfpence to two-pence a
pound, and eggs three-pence a dozen.

June 1 0th. — (iovernor Simpson arrived, and communicated to
me the measures he had adopted, as well as the result of a council
held by some of the principal oflicers of the Company, respecting the
alfairs of the expedition.

Every aid, it seemed, was to be rendered to our operations; the
stores were to be thrown open for our use; and the services and
experience of several well-informed individuals were to be made
jwailable for preventing those accidents to which our remote situa-
tion, or other local circumstances, might particularly expose us.
l*art of the stores ordered last year were at Cumberland House,
and the remainder would be there before we reached that station.
Of pemmican IMr. Simpson anticipated a less plentiful supply, oa
account of the migration of the buffalo from the plains in the neigh-
bourhood of Carlton anu Edmonton, the two principal posts for
collecting that useful, and, to us, indispensal)le provision. Yet, as
orders had been transmitted along the whole line of route up to
Great Slave Lake to hoard provision for the expedition, there was
every reason to believe that we should not be exposed to inconve-
nience.

Two additional men were engaged by the Governor; and for
the rest he recommended me to go as speedily as possible to Norway
House; where, by intercepting the difl'erent brigades of boats on
their way to Hudson's Hay, I might have an opportunity of selecting
a choice crew of old hands.

Two letters, which about this time F received ffom Mr. Simpson,
are so creditable to him, both as regards his capacity as Governor
and his feelings as a man, that, though written with no such view,
1 cannot deny myself the gratification of making them public. If
they excite in others only a small part of the admiration with which
1 regarded them, Mr. Simpson will have no reason to complain.
My own feelings towards him may be understood, when it is seen
that he thus literally idenlilied himself with the cxpedilioii, and.

84

LETTERS KKOM GOVERNOR SIMPSON.

what was scarcely of less value, impressed those around him with
the same sentiments.

•' To Captain Back, R.N., Commander of the Arctic Land

Expedition.

" Red River Settlement, 7th June, 1832.

" PIy dear Sir, — I am in possession of two very valuable com-
munications from you, which came to hand yesterday ; one dated
London, December 1/ah, 1832 — the other at Gros Cap, Lake
Superior, May 12th, 1833.

•' It is with unfeigned regret, I have to stale that imperious circum-
stances oblige me to forego the pleasure of a personal interview with
you, on your route to the scene of your operations ; but the state of
my health is so deranged as to render it absolutely necessary for me to
proceed direct from hence to Canada, and thence to England, for the
benefit of medical advice. Indeed, so completely invalided am I at
present, that in this communication I am obliged to have recourse to
dictation, being unequal to the fatigue of writing.

"Permit me, however, my dear Sir, to assure you that I have
perused these favours, together with the prinled plan of the expedition
under your command, with impressions of the most lively inleresl.
Indeed, such are the humane and philanthropic views of the enter-
prise altogether, that they cannot fail to excite and command the sym-
pathies of all with whom you may come in contact.

" For myself, allow me to say, that, in my individual as well as of-
ticial capacity, I am exceedingly anxious to further your benevolent
views; and I cannot but rejoice that the conduct of the enterprise is
intrusted to one whose experience, character, and abilities have been
already so well appreciated by the British public in reference to former
expeditions.

' ' What njay be the fate of those who are the objects of your humane
( xertions it is, in the present slate of things, impossible lo say. Sl.ould
the worst forebodings be realised, slill the expense and fatigue of the
expedition will be compensated abundantly in the valuable acipiisitions
which discovery and science will acquire, collaterally, in its prose-
cution; while the public in general, and your parly in particular, will
have the proud satisfacliou of having done all within the reach of bu-
.Tian exertion for the relief of fellow creatures supposed to be in cir-
cumstances at which our nature shudders.

" I fully concur in Mr. Keith's suggestions, respecting the necessils
of getting experienced men wl-.o arc inured to the fatigues of the country
IMiere will probably bo it'mu' (liflicully in procnriiiiz voliuilecr,'; ; but i

_J 5

LETTERS FROM UOVEKNOU SliMl'SON

•i5

ound hitn with

Arctic Land

7th June, 1832.

valuable com-
Jay ; one dated
ros Cap, Lake

iperlous circum-
intcrvicw with
but the slate of
essaiy forme to
England, for the
ivalided am I at
liave recourse to

you that I have

)f the expedition

I lively interest.

of the entcr-

mand the sym-

am happy to confide this part of the arrangement to Messrs. Chief-factors
Cameron and Christie, gentlemen, who, from their experience in the
country, and well known benevolence of character, are eminently cal-
culated to assist in furthering the well-being and comfort of the parly.
Mr. Charles will meet you at Jack River, and is directcu to give you
the full benelit of his experience and local knowledge of Ihe country
about Slave Lake and its vicinity.

" By the enclosed you will perceive thai Mie Council have nominated
four olTicers in the Company's service, all men of courage and ability ;
any one of whom will be fully adequate to the duties which may de-
volve upon him under your command. Hope of speedy promotion in
the service is the reward held out to such person of that number as may
embrace the opportunity of aiding and furthering your views and ob-
jects. In fine, I wish it lo be perfectly understood that all our re-
sources are available lo you ; that our craft will be at your service, and
our stores at your command ; and that this letter is to be considered as
fiuflicient authority for you to call those resources into action as oc
casion may require.

' ' Believe me, my dear Sir,

" Yours most faithfully,

" Geo. Simpson."

" To Alexander R. M^Leod or Simon M^Gif/ivraif, Esquires;
and to Mr. John JI^Leod, or Mr. Murdoch M'-Pherson.

as well as of-
^our benevolent
le enterprise is

ios have been
once to former

your humane

say. SI".ould

fatigue of the

e acquisitions

in its prose-

•articular, will

reach of hu-

lo be in cir-

llie necessilx
f the country
niecrs; but I

'■- Red River Settlement, 5th June, 1833.

" Gentlemen, — Anexpedi'ion has been planned by the Governor and
Comm.itee and the Arctic Society, in which his Majesty's Government
and the British public take the deepest interest, having for its object the
discovery of Captain lloss anu his crew, and the relieving them from
their supposed perilous situation, if still in existence; together with
the survey of those unknown regions on the northern coast of America
lying between Point rurnagain and the Straits of the Fury and llecla.

" The command of this expedition has been given to Captain
Back, K.N. ; and the (Governor and Committee have directed that every
support, assistance, and facility be alTorded that gentleman towards
carrying the important objects alluded lo into elTect, which we arc
most anxious should be met with tlic best feeling, in spirit and to the
letter.

" Captain Back will roipiire the assistance of one of the Hon rable
(vompany's ollicers on this mission ; and we see none so likely lo render
him the assistance rci'iired as one of yourselves. We therefore call
upon one of ynu, i;i (he nrder in which yoiu- names stand at- the head

^te

-26

DEFARTUUE FIIOM FORT ALEXANDER.

in

of lliis leller, to join Captain Back without delay and to act under the
command of that gentleman in the service in question; and as an en-
couragement to enter on this dangerous service, we hereby assure to
ycu Alexander Roderick M'Leod, Esquire, or to you Simon M'fiil-
livray, Esquire, our warmest support towards early promotion to a
chief fac;orship, in the event of either embarking on this enterprise,
and rendering to Captain Back such valuable services as we consider
you qualified to afford; and to Mr. John M'Leod, or Mr. Murdoch
M'PhersoK, ve hereby promise our warmest support towards early
promotion to a chief Iradership, ir, the event of either embarking on
this enterprise, and rendering in like manner to Captain Back such
valuable services as we consider you capable of affording, besides an
increase of salary of 100/. per annum for the time you Hiay be cm •
ployed on this expedition,

" I am, Gentlemen,
" Your most obedien* Ser ml,

" V-. - -JIMPSOK."

tfr.s

Flattering, as these arrangements were, and in the hurry of our
affairs decidedly the best that could have been made, I felt never-
theless that the time necessary to collect my party and stores, and
convey them into the interior against the obstacles and difficulties
of an unknown route, would seriously obstruct, if it did not entirely
prevent, my getting to the Polar Sea this autumn. Not that this
would materially affect our ulterior object, as I believe the most san-
guine never contemplated the idea of our being in a condition to
afford succour to Captain Uoss and his much-enduring party before
the summer of 1834. Yet for many reasqns it was desir' !s ihut
the situation and nearest route to the river Thlew-ee-c^' nM^
thence to the sea, should be discovered, if practicable, by the t rre
the laden bateaux should get to Slave Lake ; more especially as it
would tend to encourage the men, who, generally speaking, arc
always more or less nervous on new ground.

After the departure of Mr. and Mrs. Simpson, I prepared to
leave Fort Alexander — to the great delight of the voyaf/enrs, who
had been so tormented by the mosquitoes that they longed to gel to
the cool breezes of Lake Winnipeg, and indulge in the -txiry of an
undisturbed nap. l\Iy companion Mr. King, among other, was s«'
vcrely punished, to his no little disappointment, — as, being indiffe-
ronl to the attacks of Fnglisli insor(s of every description, he had
fondly imagined he should be invidr.craH*^ to those of America. li'H

AIUUVAL AT NORWAY HOUSE.

27

acl under llic
and as an cn-
reby assure lo
Simon MTiil-
iromotion lo a
liis enterprise,
js we consider
Mr. Murdoch
towards early
embarking on
lin Back such
ng, besides an
\i ii.av be em •

3lMPS0K."

B hurry of oui

L', I felt never-

[id stores, and

md difliculties

id not entirely

Not that this

the most san-

\ condition to

g party ^f foie

desir' -e tilu.t

ee-c^ *iH^

by the t 't e

specially as ic

speaking, are

prepared to
yaf/enrs, who
ngc(^ to get to
e h-\i.Ty of an
the ■■. vvas so
being indiffe
)tion, he had
America. li'K

a dipping in the Styx itself would not have saved him from the darts
of the indefatigable searchers after blood to which he was now ex
posed ; and he rose in the morning with features so changed that it
was difficult to recognise the friend of the preceding night.

At 4 A.M. of the 1 1th of June, we left the establishment; but the
wind blew so hard, that 've had not proceeded more than three miles
before the height of ihe waves, which broke freely over both sides
of the canoes, obliged us to encamp. But few birds of any kind
were seen ; and though I remembered that on a former occasion the
wild pigeons were very numerous, yet none were now found near
the fort, though the cleared land around the Red River colony, not
more than a day's march off, was said to swarm with them. On
the 12th and following day we made considerable progress. The
weather afterwards became unsettled and stormy. Geese, ducks,
plover, gulls, and tern, were seen sparingly scattered along the east
shore of the lake, which, unlike the mountains to the north, which
are limestone, * is composed of smooth and rounded granitic rocks
of liltle altitude, intervening between low banks, with sand, and
skirted by a swampy country behind. From the different ridges of
sand in the bays between the rocks, and the increase of vegetation on
them, I concluded that the shore was gradually gaining on the
w ater ; and this opinion seems confirmed by the fact that the Com-
pany has been obliged to change the situation of Old Norway House,
on the opposite side, owing to the lapidly progressive advance of
the water there. In fact, it has so undermined and washed away
the banks, as to have arrived within a few fct of a building, the
distance of which from the edge of the lake in 1810 was upwards of
three hundred yards. Few pelicans were noticed; and as these
birds are faithful attendants at good fishing places, for which the
lake is remarkable, the Canadians augured an indifferent season.

On the 17th of June, having hoisted the Company's flag, we
airived at the depot called Norway House, situated on Jack River.
Our reception was most cordial. Messrs. Christie, Rowand, Lewis,
ar.d Donald Ross, for most of whom I had letters from my excellent
Iriend Mr. Carry, lost not a moment in tendering all the assistance
in their power. But notwithstanding the good feeling on their
part, some trouble was experienced from the exorbitant terms pro-
posed by the men who seemed disposed to volunteer. The bulk of

' RithardriOii, Appendix lo Franklin

28

DIFFICULTIES OF PROCURING

the people from Ihe more remote stations had already passed the
depot ; and those who remained, either reluctant to expose them-
selves to the hazard of what was justly considered an enterprise of
danger, or influenced by the strong desire of gain, demanded the
same privileges and emoluments which had been granted to the mei
employed on the two Government expeditions under Sir J, Franklin.
Unreasonable as this seemed to us, we had no choice but to yield
in part to their demands ; and even then, it was not until 1 had
taken infinite pains, by pointing out on the map the whole line of
my operations, by lessening the danger and magnifying our re-
sources, and, finally, by arousing the slumbering spirit of the High-
lander, that James M'Kay, to whom I first addressed myself, — a
powerful fellow, and one of the best steersmen in the country, — at
''<ngth consented to be my follower. The example once set was
on imitated, and others, more or less qualified, completed my list
10 within two of the complement. Two days sufficed to equip
them; and as a large supply of stores, together with sixty bags ol
pemmican and two new boats, or batteaux. Were already at Cum-
berland House, I despatched Mr. King, with written instructions
and fifteen men, to precede me to that post. 1 remained behind to
secure, if possible, another steersman, and a middleman for a ca
noo, with which it was my intention to push on, by the Athabasca,
to Great Slave Lake ; whence I hoped a route might be found to the
Thiew-ee-chon, and where at all events an eligible place might be
selected for our winter residence. About the same time Mr.
Christie and several other gentlemen took their departure for York
factory, with a promise to provide me, if possible, with an Esqui-
maux interpreter, either in the person of my old friend Augustus,
who was expected from the Labrador coast, or in that of a lad ol
the name of Dunning, then at Churchill, and represented by Go
vernor Simpson as equal to the task.

Messrs. Cameron, Lewis, Uoss, and myself, were now the onI\
persons left at the dep6t ; and I may conscientiously say that 1 al
most counted the hours, in my anxiety for the arrival of the parties
from either of which it was supposed I might ge* the men required
They came at last; and two Canadians, former acquainlances ol
mine, presented themselves, almost breathless with haste, as can
<lidales for the service. Their merits being known to me. I made
no scruple about receiving them, and directed their agreements to
be made out. In the meantime, however, returning to the camp,

MEN FOR THE SERVICE.

SO

eady passed the

o expose them-

an eDterprise of

demanded the

nted (o the mei

Sir J, Frankhn.

ice but to yield

not until 1 had

ic whole line of

nifying our re-

rit of the High-

ised myself, — a

le country, — at

e once set was

>mpleled my list

ifiiced to equip

ith sixty bags ol

Iready at Cum-

ten instructions

ained behind to

leman for a ca

(he Athabasca,

)e found to the

)Iace might be

anie time Mr.

ture for York

(vith an Esqui-

icnd Augustus,

that of a lad oi

esented by Go

e now the on!;.
say that I at
of the parties
men required
quainfances ol
haste, as can
lo me. I made
agreements td
(o the camp,

f

they were met by their wives, who were no sooner made acquainted
with the transaction than they resorted to diiTcrent, though as it
seems equally efficacious, methods of diverting them from their pur-
pose. The one, a good strapping dame, cuflcd her husband's ears
with such dexterity and good will, that he was fain to cry peccavi,
and seek shelter in a friendly tent ; the other, an interesting girl
of seventeen, burst into tears, and with piteous sobs clung to the
husband of her love, as if she would hold him prisoner in her
arms. I had therefore to look elsewhere ; and it was not until the
26th, that George Sinclair (born in the country, and an admirable
steersman") engaged on similar terms with M'Kay. There now
wanted but one ; and this deficiency was with great kindness sup-
plied by 3Ir. Cameron's allowing me to take an Iroquois belonging
to the Company, on condition that if he went beyond Slave Lake,
he should be entitled to the same advantages as the others. *

All was now complete; and, after writing despatches for His Ma-
jesty's Government and the Arctic Committee, letters, etc., I look
leave of my worthy host Mr. Uoss, and at 2 a. m., June 28th, left
Norway House.

The men eiigu^ed lor the expedition w

James M'Kay .
George Sinclair
Thomas Matthews
William Matthews .
.John Ross
William Malley
Hugh Canoa
David AMIliamson .
William Rowland
Thomas Anderson .
Malcolm Smith.
Donald M'Donaid.
Morrison Morrison,
•lames Spencc
Peter Taylor .
Charles Boulanger.
Pierre Kanaquasse.
Thomas Hassel

ere the following ;

Steersman.

ditto.
Carpenter.

ditto.
Artilleryman

ditto.

ditto.

ditto.
Fisherman.

ditto.

Engaged afterwards
ditto.

Interpreter

Also the following, who were subseqnently discharged: —

Antoine De Charloil. Pierre Ateasla.

■^— — La Charite. Two more Iroquois

Olivier Seguin Fran(;'ois Iloole

3U

CHAPTEH II.

Commeiuieinent of the Expedition. — Interview with Mr. Charles. — Wind-houiul
by a Land Gale. — A Receipt for the Cure of " Blue Devils." — Description of
a Voyageur's Tent. — A Land Storm. — The Grand Rapid. — Advance of Culti-
vation.— Arrival at Cumberland House. — Departure of the Bateaux under
Mr. King. — Embark in a Canoe. — Working of the Boats in the Rapids. —
Isle i la Crosse. — Buffalo Lake. — A Squall. — A Skunk. — Portage la Loche.

— Effect of the Scenery. — Interview with Mr. Stuart and Mr. A. M'Leod. —
The latter volunteers to accompany the Expedition. — Arrive at Fort Chipewyan.

— Information as to the supposed Route by the Fond du Lac. — Journey re-
sumed. — Salt River. — Sketch of a Party of Indians. — Description of the Salt
Springs. — Indian Encampment. — Information of the Natives as to the Rivers
Thlew-ee-choh and Teh-Ion. — Arrival at Fort Resolution.

June 28th. — This was a liappy day for me; and as the canoe
pushed oft" from the bank, my heart swelled with hope and joy. Now,
for the first time, I saw myself in a condition to verify the kind an-
ticipations of my friends. The preliminary difficulties had been over-
come : I was fairly on the way to the accomplishment of the bene-
volent errand on which I had been commissioned ; and the con-
templation of an object so worthy of all exertion, in which I thought
myself at length free to indulge, raised m^ spirits to a more than
ordinary pilch of excitement.

We paddled along, with little respite, until 5 p. m., when a small
speck was seen under the steep sandy cliff's round Mossy Point, on
the northern boundary of Lake Winnipeg. It was coming towards
us, and was at first taken for an Indian canoe ; but as we approached,
I had the satisfaction to find that it was the the Company's light
canoe from the Athabasca, with Messrs. Smith and Charles, two
gentlemen whom I had long wished to see. From the latter I now
learnt that he had made every endeavour to obtain, by inquiries
from the Indians, a tolerably correct notion of the situation of the
river Thlew-ee-choh ; the result of which was an opinion that it
ran somewhere to the north-east of Great Slave Lake, in a position
not far from that which had been speculatively assigned to it by
my friend Dr. Richardson and myself. Mr. Charles had further been
informed by an Indian chief, called the "Grand Jeune Homme,"

INTEKMEW WITH MH CH AHLEH.

31

s. — Wind-bound
' — Description ol'
Advance of Culti-
he Bateaux under
in the Rapids. —
Portage la Loche.
[r. A. M'Leod. —
t Fort Chipewyau.
jc. — Journey re-
;ription of the Salt
!S as to the Rivers

1 as the canoe

and joy. Now,

fy the kind an-

had been over-

t of the bene-

and the con-

hich I thought

0 a more than

when a small
)ssy Point, on
Iming towards
[e approached,
Impany's Ught

1 Charles, two
latter I now
by inquiries

luation of the

)inion that it

in a position

l^ned to it by

further been

le Homme,"

whose hunting grounds were in the neighbourhood of Great Slave
, Lake, that t|ie Thlew-ee-choh was so full of rapids as to make it
doubtful if boats, or indeed large canoes, could descend it; but that,
by pursuing a different course to a large river, called Teh-Ion, such
difficulties would be avoided ; whilst the distance between the mouths
of the two rivers was so trilling, that the smoke of a fire made at
one was distinctly visible at the other. The chief had drawn a
rough outline of the track, some part of which 1 recognised as being
on the borders of Slave Lake; but the directions assigned to the
rivei's could not be explained by either of the gentlemen, nor was
I able to bring myself to any satisfactory conclusion about them.
The waters, however, were described as abounding in fish, and the
country in animals ; and, what was not less gratifying, the chief and
some others were willing and desirous to accompany me.

Mr. Charles was the officer in charge of the Athabasca district ;
and having resided at Chippewyan Fort, he was well qualified to
judge of the accuracy of an opinion expressed by ]\Ir. A. Stewart,
a gentleman whom 1 had seen at Montreal, that a practicable route
might be found from the bottom or eastern extremity of that lake.
He disclaimed, however, any knowledge of such a route, though
he thought it desirable that I should ascertain the fact. He, as well
as Mr. M'Kenzie, at Isle h. la Crosse, had provision for us, if re-
quired; and after some further arrangements respecting boats at
the north end of Portage la Loche, and the procuring of dogs along
the route, in all of which he cheerfully met my wishes, we sepa-
rated, both for the sea, though in directions very different. The
evening was calm and clear, and, jf the strength of the men had
been equal to my impatience, we should have passed the night on
the water; but they had been nearly eighteen hours labouring at
the paddles, and I could not refuse them a little rest : at 8'' 40™
P.M., therefore, we encamped on the beach, and were instantly
beset by swarms of mosquitoes.

The appearance of the cliffs or steep banks, from Mossy to New
Limestone Point, is somewhat remarkable : they are composed of
clay, with a superstratum of vegetable substances about six feet
thick; the layers of which appear to be horizontally foliated, like
the leaves of an outspread book. In colour they vary from a black-
^ ish brown to a light ochre, and they rest entirely on a substratum
S3 of calcareous sand, with small fragn ^nts of water-worn limestone,
on which the lake is constantly en* iiacliing, as may be distinctly

M

WIND-BOUND BY A LAND GALE.

seen by the numberless broken stems ol trees, wiiosc roo(s are vet
green in the soil.

We started at three o'clock on the following morning, and were
soon relieved from the fatigue of the paddle by a favourable light
breeze. To go on shore and trim a mast was the work of ten mi-
nutes; but as, according to the old adage, ''it never rains but it
pours," so our light breeze was soon converted into a gale. In an
hour or two we were compelled to run the canoe into shoal water,
to save her from being swamped in deep; and each man, getting
out, waded with the baggage to a place of shelter, where the canoe
also was secured.

Nothing is more annoying to a sailor than to be wind-bound on
fresh water. " On the wide ocean ranging," he is more resigned
to the imperious will of the elements; but, to be stopped for an
indefinite time, within sight of birds and animals gamboling in the
gale, is a species of annoyance which quite overcomes his philo-
sophy : at least, it was so with me ; so, to dispel the moody iii
which was gathering, I drew on a pair of Esquimaux boots made ol
seal-skin, and, taking my gun, made the tour of a thickly wooded
swamp, which was so interlaced with undergrowth, willows, and
fallen trees, that, when once in, 1 found it no easy matter to get
out again. In the exertion necessary for extricating myself my
restlessness found a vent, and the exercise soon restored my mind
to its usual tone, and prepared it for other occupations. 1 returned
to the tent thoroughly tired; and, here reclining in the full ease ol
a voyageiii\ 1 amused myself with observing the odd assemblage
of things around me. At my /ect was a rolled bundle in an oil-
cloth, containing some three blankets, called a bed ; — near it a piece
of dried buffalo, fancifully ornamented with long black hairs, which
no art, alas ! can prevent from insinuating themselves between the
teeth, as you laboriously masticate the tough, hard flesh; — then a
tolerably clean napkin spread, by way of table-cloth, on a red piece
of canvass, and supporting a tea-pot, some biscuit, and a salt-cellar;
— near this a tin plate, close by a square kind of box or safe, of the
same material, rich with a pale greasy ham, the produce of the co-
lony at Red River ; — and, last, the far-renowned pemmicau, un-
questionably the best food of the country for expeditions such as
ours. Behind me were two boxes, containing astronomical instru-
ments, and a sextant lying on the ground; — whilst the different
corners of the tent were occupied by washing apparatus, a gun,

*#

LAND STORM— GRAND RAPID.

M

,c roots are yet

ning, and were
avourable light
vork of ten mi-
rier rains but it
) a gale. In an
ito shoal water,
ch man, getting
vhere the canoe

wind-bound on
s more resigned
5 stopped for an
amboling in the
!omcs his philo-
el the moody iii
IX boots made ol
I thickly wooded
th, willows, and
sy matter to get
ting myself rav
(Stored my mind
ons. 1 returned
I the full ease o(
odd assemblage
undle in an oil-
— near it a piece
ick hairs, which
/es between the
flesh;— then a
, on a red piece
nd a salt-cellar;
|x or safe, of the
duce of the co-
Ipemmicau, un-
ditions such as
nomical instru-
,t the difTerent
aratus, a gun,

Indian shot po ■ h, bags, basins, and an unhappy-looking japanned
pot, whose melancholy bumps and hollows seemed to reproach me
for many a bruise endured upon the rocks and portages betwixt Mon-
treal and Lake Winnipeg. Nor was my crew less motley than the
furniture of my tent. It consisted of an Englishman, — a man from
Stornaway, — two Canadians, — two Melifs (or half-breeds), — and
three Iroquois Indians. Babel could not have produced a worse
confusion of unharmonious sounds than was the conversation they
kept up.

Towards evening the wind abated, and 1 made sure of resuming
the march in the night; but the clouds soon grew heavier, and sent
forth, at intervals, hollow-sounding gusts of wind, the harbingers of
a strong gale, which the morning of the 30th ushered in. The
lake resembled one rolling sheet of foam, which contrasted strongly
with the dark slaty sky to windward : the mosquitoes had vanished ;
six or eight gulls, unable any longer to sustain their flight in search
of food, had huddled together on the lee side of a projecting sand-
bank; and two crows, wearied with exertion, sat perched on the
waving branches of a tall pine, unscared by the approach of intruding
feet. It was altogether an impressive scene of picturesque and me-
lancholy wildness. I assembled the men in the tent, and read
divine service. In the evening a fire-fly was seen.

July 1st. — An opportune change in the weather allowed us to
get away; and, having passed the limestone rocks bordering that
part of the lake, we shortly arriveo at the Grand Rapid, the inte-
resting particulars of which are too well and too minutely described
in Sir John Franklin's Narratives, to require or even justify a re-
petition here.

Some " freemen," * Indians, and other idlers, had, according to
their usual custom, congregated at either end of the rapid, with the
view of intercepting the voyagers, as they passed to and from the
interior, in order to barter their maple sugar, or, in consideration
of a recompense, to assist the exhausted crews in carrying their
heavy burdens across the portage. Many viere sick, and all bitterly
complained of the late scarcity of animals.

Having poled up several rapids, we got to Cedar Lake, the well-
known " Lac Bourbon," where Indian barbarity, in its most hideous

* Persons who, having been in the Company's employ, have obtained their dis-
charge, and are living on their own exertions.

3

: i

31

ARRIVAL AT CUMBEULAND HOUSE.

form, annihilated for ever the pious labours of the early mis-
sionaries.

In the River Saskashawan, I was not more pleased than sur-
prised to behold, on the right bank, a large farm-house, with barns
and fenced inclosures, amid wliieh were grazing' eight or ten line
cows, and three or four horses. It belonged to a freeman, of th«
name of Turner, whom I regretted not having an opportunity ol
seeing.

At length, on the 5th of July, we entered the Little River, and
got to Pine Island Lake. The crew had dressed themselves out in
all their finery, — silver bands, tassels, and feathers in their ha(s,
— intending to approach the station with some effect; but, unhap-
pily for the poor fellows, the rain fell in torrents, their feathers
drooped, and such was the accumulation of mud, that it was
necessary to wade a full mile before we could land at Cumberland
House. Owing to the same cause, a creek leading from the Saska-
shawan had been rendered impassable; and dry land extended so
far from the house into the lake, that the fishery, as I afterwards
found, was diminished almost to nothing. During the whole of my
stay tliere, though no pains were spared, not a solitary fish was
taken. I was received by Mr. Isbester, a clerk of the Company,
my companion, Mr. King, who had ariivcd without accident, and
another person, who had been accommodated with a passage in
the boat.

The boats, stores, and pemmican were in good order and quite
ready; and, having made some arrangements with Mr. Isbester for
our mutual convenience, and a few changes as regarded the dif-
ferent crews, I had the satisfaction of getting my two hufcdnx away,
under the orders of 3Ir. King, on the Glh of July. Each was laden
with a cargo of 61 pieces of 90 lbs. each, making, for both, 10,980
lbs., exclusive of men, bedding, clothes, masts, sails, oars, and other
spars. Yet, with such steersmen as M'Kay and Sinclair, I had not
the slightest apprehension for their safety, and looked with confi-
dence to their arriving at winter quarters before the setting in ol
the ice.

,. It occupied the day to make some alterations in the canoe, and I
availed myself of the interval to obtain observations on the dip, force,
and latitude ; the latter of which agreed, within three seconds, with
Sir J. Franklin's. I also wrote to the Company for a further sup-
ply of stores to be forwarded with the outfit of the following season.

WOUKTNfi OF TIIF BOATS IN TIIK RAPIDS.

35

the early mis-
eased than sur-
louse, with barns
eight or ten line
freeman, of the
I opportunity ol

Little River, and
lemselves out in
rs in tlieir hals,
feet; but, unhap-
ts, their feathers
uid, that it was
J at Cumberland

from the Saska-
land extended so
, as I afterwards
; the whole of my
solitary fish was
)f the Company,
)ut accident, and

ith a passage iu

order and quite
Mr. Isbester for
legarded the dif-
hulcunx away,
Each was laden
(or both, 10,980
oars, and other
iclair, I had not
Iked with conii-
|he setting in ol

|ie canoe, and I
the dip, force,

|e seconds, witli
a further sup-

llowing season,

The hope of getting sights for time induced me to remain a little
longer than I had intended ; but, as there was every appeaiance that
Ihe weather would continue overcast, I embarked about noon of the
7th of July, in the canoe, with eight hands; and, being comparatively
light, we made tolerable progress.

On the following day we overtook IMr. King in the Sturgeon Ri-
ver, or, as it is more expressively named in the country, the Riviere
Maligne. It may with perfect propriety be described as one un-
interrupted rapid ; and was at that peiiod so low, that the boats had
to treble their distance in going backwards and forwards for the
cargo. A glance at their manner of working was enough to satisfy
me of their capability, and confirme(' le in the expectation that
they would arrive early at Great Slave Ijake. Still t!ie <'ontrast
between us was great; and my skilful guide. Do Charloit (a half-
breed), did not fail to make the superiority of the canoe appear to
the best advantage. The cumbrous hatrnnx were dragged la-
boriously, a few paces at a time, by the united exertions of those on
board and those on shore. Sometimes, unable to resist the impe-
tuous force of the current, they were swept back ; at others, sus-
pended on the arched back of a descending wave, they struggled
and laboured until they were again in the shelter of a friendly eddy.
But the canoe, frail as she was, and too weak for the encounter of
such rude shocks, was nevertheless threaded through the boiling
rapids and sunken rocks with fearful elegance. The cool dexterity
with which she was managed was truly admirable; not a " set" ^
was missed; and, as she glanced past the boats, she must liave
seemed to the envying crews as il endowed with preternatural
powers. We were soon out of sight, and, by wading and poleing
over shoals and rapids, at length reached the head of that dangerous
and annoying river. The canoe was then examined; and, besides
several minor fractures, she w as found to have been grooved by the
sharp and cutting rocks from one extreme to the other. For many
days there was heavy rain, with thunder and lightning. The woods
were burning in all directions; set on lire, according to the account
of some Cree Indians, by their own hands, to scare the animals
into the water, where they are more easily captured.

Julv 17th. — We got to Isle h la Crosse, where I made the ne-

* A ■' set" is the firm lixinj; of Uie pole against the bottom of the river, and a
f ilse "set" has often occasioned the loss of a canoe.

30

A S(^I'AI<L.

I ': ]■

\ ^

t'if ;

cessaiy arrangements fur tlic huats receiving twenty bags of pein-
inican, sonin dogs, and whatever might be further requisite for e\
pediting their progress. Here, also, two neA' canoes were at my
disposal, hav'ng been purposely made to prevent any disappoint-
ment in conveying the stores to the north of Portage la Lochc, in
case, as sometimes happens, there should bo only suflicient boats to
carry the trading supplies of the Company to their different posts.
However, as my arrangements with Mr. Charles had obviated every
difficulty in that respect, 1 had only to admire, and to express my
thanks for, sucii considerate foresight; and, having made the ac-
customed obs , vations for the dip, force, &c., I left the fort, and pur-
suedmy way.

Keeping to the left of Clear Lake, we entered Buffalo Lake,
which, among a less rude and savage people, would certainly have
formed the theme of many a legendary tale of " hair-breadth 'scapes,'"
from the mischief-loving genius that haunts its shores. Few per-
sons have ever completed the long traverse of this deceitful lake,
without being favoured with a breeze that endangered their hves.
I had been caught before ; yet, from the unruffled smoothness of its
wide surface, 1 began to fancy that we we )w to be exempted
from the usual compliment. The men si ^ ^nd paddled with
energy, the fitful cry of a slightly wounded bittern, which lay at the
bottom of the canoe, serving for an accompaniment ; and we had
gained the centre of the traverse, when suddenly a gentle air was
felt coming from the well-known quarter of the Buffalo Mountain.
The suspicious guide would now no longer permit even the custom-
ary rest of a few minutes to recover strength, but urged the crew to
exertion , and they, ever and anon looking toward the blue summits
of the mountain with something of a superstitious glance, made our
light bark skim over the water like a thing impelled by wings. A
dark cloud rose from behind the nu)untaiu, and began to expand
towards the zenith; little gusts of wind followed; and in less than
half an hour we were in the midst of a thunder-storm, that raised a
sea from which there was no escape but by hoisting a shred of a
sail, and running through breakers to the nearest lee land.

The place was a swamp, concealed by long grass; and, just as n
spot had been found to pitch the tent, a man, in going to it, acci-
dentally disturbed a skunk. The animal resented the intrusion in
the usual way. In a moment there was a general complaint against
the rankoffeuce; every one turned himself to windward, and the

I'OIMAOK LA LOCME

at

ity bags of pem-
requisite for ex-
moes were at mv
any disappoint-
"tage la Loclie, in
siiflicient boats to
lir dilTerent posls.
ad obviated every
nd to express my
ing made the ac-
the fort, and pur-

ed Buffalo Lake,
Id certainly liavr
-breadth 'scapes,"
lores. Few per-
is deceitful lake,
gered their lives,
smoothness of its
V to be exempted
id paddled with
which lay at the
nt ; and we had
a gentle air was
(Talo Mountain,
ven the custom-
ged the crew to
he blue summits,
lance, made oui
d by wings. A
egan to expand
nd in less than
m, that raised a
ng a shred of a
land.

and, just as a
ing to it, acci-
he intrusion in
mplaint against
ward, and the

poor fellow who had unconsciously brought the evil upon Uh w.ni
half stifled with the noisome odour, and threw his cap6t into ihc
lake, with deep imprecations on the unsavoury and ill-mannered
brute.

It was the 21st of July when we reached Portage lu Loche, the
high ridge of land which divides the waters running into Hudson's
Bay from those which direct their course to the Arctic Sea. For
about six or seven miles on this portage, the roiinf/cftrs are exposed
to temporary but acute suff'ering, from the total absence of good
water to quench the thirst, aggravated, in our case, by carrying
loads of 200 lbs. in an atmosphere of 08** of Fahrenheit. They are,
at the same time, incessantly tormented by myriads of insatiable
mosquitoes and horse-flies, significantly called " bull dogs," which,
delighted with the rare treat of a human subject, banquet on their
victims till, not unfrequently, the face streams with blood. Happy,
therefore, is the moment when the bright surface of the Little Lake
is descried which cools and refreshes their wearied frames. In
addition to uicse evils, which are common to all, two of my parly
were sadly foot-fallen, and almost groaned under their burdens, —
a sight too painful to be witnessed without compassion. However,
in services such as that on which we were engaged, it often becomes
even a duty to stifle our sensations; or, rather, though we may and
must feel, there are times when we must be careful not to express
the feeling.

After labouring, with frequent halts, through the thick woods,
we came suddenly upon the spot from which the picturesque and
beautiful view from Portage la Loche bursts «ipon the sight. A
thousand feet below, the sylvan landscape lay spread before us, to
to the extent of thirty-six miles, in all the wild luxuriance of its
summer clothing. Even the most jaded of the party, as he broke
from the gloom of the wood on this enchanting scene, seemed to
forget his weariness, and halted involuntarily with his burden, to
gaze for a moment, with a sort of wondering admiration, on a
spectacle so novel and magnificent. My own sensations, however,
had not the keenness of those of a stranger to the sight ; and it was
not without a sort of melancholy, such as results from satiety, that
1 contrasted my present feelings with the raptui'e which 1 had for-
merly experienced. It was, to me, Portage la Loche, and nothing
' more, — the same beautiful and romantic solitude through which I
had passed and repassed on (wo former expedition.s. There was

1

1

1

1

ll

1

1

1

V

\

^

3B

:\lll. M'LEOD ACCOMPANIES THE EXPEDITION.

nolliing new to excite surprise, or quicken delight; not a spot or
latent beauty, not even a gleam of light glancing across the valley,
which had not been well noted before, and diligently treasured in
the nieniory. I looked upon it as I should look upon an exquisite
but familiar picture — with pleasure, but without emotion.

There is somctiiing appalling in the vastness of a solitude like
this. I had parted from my companions, and was apparently the
only living being in the wilderness around me. Almost un-
consciously I reloaded my gun ; and then, stepping cautiously along
the narrow ridge of the descent, glided silently into the valley, as if
afraid to distuib the genius of the place. It was r positive comfort
to hear, now and then, the hollow tread of the men as they passed
j-apidly through the thicket which screened them from sight ; and
when the white tent was pilchcd, and the curling smoke rose
through the dense green of the forest, it seemed as if the spell ol
the desert was broken, and the whole landscape was suddenly
animated into life and cheerfulness.

July 23d. — The last loads were brought down to the water's
edge, and, as soon as they were safely deposited, the men, exhausted
with fatigue , threw themselves on the ground, and remained almost
motionles?., for up vards of an hour. After this the canoe was
gummed, and we e.-nbarked near some hatranar belonging to the
Company, which, Mr. Charles had informed me, might, if we
pleased, be appropriated to our use.

On arriving at the Pine Portage, I v.as agreeably surprised by
meeting .Mr. J. Stuart, and ?»Ir. A. R. M'Leod, who had got thus far
on their way irom IM'Kenzie's Hiver, with a large cargo of furs. I
had looked lorward with no little anxiety to the chance of seeing
the lattei' gentleman, not only as he was the first person named in
Governor Simpson's circular to accompany me, but as being an old
acquaintance, and one whom I knew to be particularly well quali-
lied for the performance of those duties v;hich the natu.e of tho
service would require. Indeed, his refusal to accompany rae would
have placed me in a very awkward predicament ; for I had reckoned
on his assistance in many matters which could not, without great
inconvenience, have devolved on myself. It was therefore of im-
portance to secure him; and my friend i\Ir. Stuart, to whose
kindness and love of enterprise I was no stranger, undertook at
once to break the subject to him. But there was no necessity for
mediation ; for, although Mv. M'Kcod had long been indisposed, and

ITIOX.

it ; not a spof or
icross the valley,
ntly treasured in
ipon an exquisite
motion,

of a solitude like

IS apparently the

:e. Almost un-

cautiously along

0 the valley, as if
positive comfort

3n as they passed
from sight ; and
ling smoke rose
as if the spell ot
e was suddenly

1 to the water's
; men, exhausted
remained almost
1 the canoe was

elonging to the
might, if we

y surprised by
ad got thus far
igo of furs. I
lance of seeing
3rson named in
as being an old
riy well quali-
natu/e of the
any me would
had reckoned
without great
refore of ini-
rt, to whose
undertook at
necessity for
isposed, and

•^

ARRIVAL AT FORT CHIPPEVVYAN.

SQ

was then on his way to Canada, with a view to the re-establishment
of his health, no sooner did he see the circular from Mr. Simpson,
and learn the humane object of my mission, than he removed every
apprehension from my mind, by declaring bis sympathy for our
long absent countrymen, his satisfaction at seeing me, and his
gallant determination to sacrifice his own plans to the pleasure of
becoming my companion.. I wrote, therefore, immediately to the
Company, and, with his able assistance, made a requisition, in full,
for (lie necessary supplies, to support the expeuilion during the year
1831. 31r. Sluart, i believe, was scarcely less delighted at his
friend's decision than myself, and, besides many useful suggestions,
of which I was glad to lake advantage, generously offered every
aid, publie and private, within his power.

July 2tt.n. — There was so much ditliculty in stewing the addi-
tional baggage, that my guide declared the canoe would not hold
us : and w lien it is considered that he had to make places for six
more persons, viz. 31r. M'Leod, his wife, three children, and a
servant, whom I hired at the same rate as the otL^irs; in other
words, that fourteen were to be crammed into a space intended for
eight or nine, it is not surprising thai he should indulge in a growl.
He foresaw that, with such extra weight, his " cher canot" would
very possibly get broken; and his apprehensions were .soon verified
by our striking against a sunken rock.

After some detentions of an ordinary kind, wo got to Fcrt Chippe-
wyan on the 29th of July. We arrived so early, that we were not
in the least expected ; and the canoe was not seen until within a
short distance of the land, — a circumstance by no means pleasing to
the guide, who, besides his own d rorations of many coloured
feathers, etc., had taken more than ordinary pains to display to the
best advantage the crimson beauties of a large silk flag. The sleep-
ing inmates were, however, at leng '^ roused; and we were wel-
comed by Mv. Iloss, who had be a left by Mr. Charles in charge
of the establishment.

It was to be regretted that the whole of the Indians usually re-
sorting to this station were, at the time of our visit, too much dis-
persed to allow of any one in particidar being sen* for ; so that we
were obliged to rest satisfied with the meagre narrative of an infirm
, old Indian, who, in his yo.ithful days, had passed by the Fond du
I Lac to the rivers I was in search of; and his account was too vagut
I and uncertain to warrant any hopes of success in that direction.

ff

\ .

\ ,

; f

49

JOUHNEY RESUMED.

"•■e was old and „f „„ ,:' „!' X^Z '' ""■^'*'"^- "-'
like to say ,00 much,"_a tone "vT- T T "' ^-ihe did no,
lis modesty, was very different Lr',?™""" P''''i«worthy f„,
a« Indian, oo„soio„s^hat h " tT/'"^ ''"^^P™-'°» «'h w.ic
'o similar inquiries, as, " uZst'lT' """"'"'^^^ ^'^ """-"

.re'StL?------"-'on"e-r^-?;^^^^^^

«...e:t:e^^^^^^^^^^^^^ .^ere were man,

but under ,J.e snperin.endenc of Mr Zl" 7"^^' ^'-"'>''-
together wi,h .he necessary i™pie™e,'f!'f''.';^: "'" S'-eaiev par,,
ment, were ready in a „oJp,e ZZ^s Z l'"" " "'^ ''''^^'^-^'■
observations for the dip, fo™ J a l '"""•™'' ' obtained
several bags of grease, ion^^^^;:: "f."," ■""^^■'^•' ^^i^" «'
were put i„,„ a second eano which Itho ."'" "' '^^"'^■■' *''-l'
■n the event of finding any sh^!! 'iv ?*" ""»'" '"' ■=<"'™nie„.

fort late in the evening lste\ J^" "'^ »»■"■. we quitted ,h.

bemg left f„r the guidance of Mr Ifn"/"" 1"'''"'' '"^"•-«»-
*«'<■«'«. "^- '*'"8' on his arrival with the

The lake was unusuallv low .!,•
we had more than ordinL .To We LT' "'' '" --^^"-00,
fi'ver, where we encamped'^ The fo ," r'''"'"^ "'« ""'» '" Ston
ca m, and we heard the sound of the f^ "'*'" *"* ^^'"^^'""•l
m-les. Great n,at,ed rafts of dt^f, t,of ^' \f' »"- "f 'wen,
Slave Rtver; and o.-, reaching the Rant? T?, """'"'K '^O"'" 'I'o
on the roeks showed a deprel „^ r "^ r ""'' ' '"'^' "" "ater line -,
^een it. N'„u,erous sand aid Zd L I" r' '""""' """ ' '-<• "v
had been thrown „p, atd ^ t ^ fid"'""'"'"-'-'''''"
vegetauon. On the granitic ZZ o he^f ''" "'"' "'^'P™'
Falls (which were bare and clean 1 c'"""""" ""^ Pc^ca,,
was a deposition of at least S^Zn tl r '^ "'"''"^'■° P»-^'"
|eat a quantity is annually ca,"ieddowf. :", '"""' ' P™"' ^ow
Slave Lake. <">*■• by the sp.ing (l„ods into

^

.*i*

SALT RIVER.

41

lu Lac, confirmed
river there whicli
yet, when the old
y remarking, thai
; and he did not
praiseworthy for
Bssion with whicli
ludes his answers
yes have seen it,'
II idea of going by

there were manj
)vided elsewhere ;
the greater part,
ig a new establisli-
iterval, I obtained
increased cargo of
of leather, which
ight be convenient
^th, we quitted the
rther instructions
i arrival with the

in consequence,
he flats to Stony
was remarkably
fistance of twenty
)ating down the
i, the water line
than I had ever
M-able elevation,
with incipient
[in and Pelican
Iranklin passed)
I, a proof how
|ing floods into

pnly 36"; and a
B, counteracted
|ng head-way

we were, consequently, five hours in accomplishing the twelve
miles, which brought us to i le Salt River. Here there had 'icen a
recent encampment of Indians. From the marks about the place,
it was supposed that they had ascended the river to the plains,
which are generally well stocked with buffalo and other animals ;
and, as it was material to have an interview, the lading was taken
out of my canoe ; and with Mr. ftl'Leod for a companion, I went,
quite light, in search of them. We had hardly rounded the second
point, when the sight of a " cache,"' suspended from the apex of a
deserted lodge, convinced us that we should soon come up with
the stragglers; and, accordingly, about a quarter of a mile farther,
two young Indians thrust their dark bodies through the branches of
the trees, and called to us to sf p. They formed part of the tribe
of Slave Lake Indians, who were expected to be in this direction,
and their friends were not far from them. They merely told us
what we well knew, " that there was little water in the river, and
they doubted if we could get up." Shortly afterwards, we met a
whole fleet of canoes, whose approach was notified by loud and
discordant sounds — a horrible concert of voices of all ages, utterly
indescribable. Their chief was an intelligent looking old man,
called by the traders, "le camarade de Mandeville;" and from his
extensive knowledge of the country to the northward ak?d eastward
of Great Slave Lake, there was every reason to expect onsidorable
information, if it could only br ormed out of him. To achieve
this, 3Ir. M'Leod returned with <he IJians to our encampn:ent;
there with all befitting ceremony to open die preliminaries by the
customary pipe: for a social puff is to an Indian, what .* bottle of
wine is to an Englishman : "apcni prrecordia," it unlocks the li^art,
and dissipates reserve.

The tout cnsvmhUi of these " people," as they, with some vanity,
styie themselves, was wild and grotesque in the extreme. One ca-
floe in particular fixed my attention ; it was small even for a '-anoe ;
and how eight men, women, and children contrived ' w away
their legs, in a space not more than large enough for itiree Euro-
peans, would have been a puzzling problem to one unacquainted
with the suppleness of an Indian's unbandaged limbs. There, how-
ever, they were, in a temperature of 66", packed heads and tails
like Yarmouth herrings— half naked— their hair in elf-locks, long

• Secreted heap, or store of any thiiij;

1 {

h

4-2

THE SALT SPRINGS.

and inattecl — filthy beyond description — and all squalling togethr^r.
To complete the picture, their dogs, scarce one degree below them,
formed a sort of body guard, on each side of the river; and as the
canoe glided away with the current, all the animals together, hu-
man and canine, set up a shrill and horrible yell.

By sunset I got well up the stream ; but not having been there
for thirteen years, and my crew being i.o better acquainted with the
locality than myself, we took a wrong channel, and encamped. The
following morning the route was regained; and on arriving at the
proper spot, we filled our five large bags with pure and white salt,
in the short space of half an hour. There were no mounds like
those seen in 1820; but just at the foot of the hill which bounds
the prairie in that quarter, there were three springd^ varying in dia-
meter from four to twelve feet, and producing hillocks of salt, from
fourteen to thirty inches in height. The streams were dry, but the
surface of the clayey soil was covered, to the extent of a few hundred
yards towards the plain, with a white crust of saline particles. The
plain itself had been trodden into paths, by the footsteps of buffalo
and other herbivorous animals.

We returned the samx? way to the encampment at the mouth of
the river, and found the Indians seated in clusters round Mr.
IM'Leod, still busy in listening to and answering his interrogatories.
The information thus collected was made intelligible to me by means
of an outline of the north-eastern country, drawn by the Camarade.
In this sketch, the Thlew-ee-choh and the Teh-Ion were represent-
ed as maintaining a nearly parallel direction E. N. E. to the sea;
though, where that sea was, whether in some of the deep inlets of
Hudson's Bay, or, as 1 fervently hoped, more directly north, towards
Point Turnagain, it was altogether beyond his knowledge to de-
clare.

The relative bearings of ^cveral lakes, which many of their
number had frequently .isited, and of which, in fact, they knew
every winding, w'.c; equally involved in doubt and obscurity. In
one point alone were they positive and unanimous; and that was,
the superiority and many advantages of the Teh-Ion over the Thlew-
ee-choh. The former was described as being a broad and noble
stream, decorated on either bank with tall pine and birch, and
flowing in uninterrupted traniiuillity to its journey's end. The latter
was graphically pourl rayed, as originating in rapids — narrow, shoal,
and dangerous — destitute of wood, even for fuel— full of dange-

it

ARRIVAL AT FORT RliSOLrjTION.

4S

ualling logethrjr.
ree below them,
iver; and as the
lis together, hu-

iving been there
uainted with the
encamped. The
arriving at the
} and white sah,
no mounds like
1 which bounds
iv varying in dia-
cks of salt, from
ere dry, but the
ofa few hundred
J particles. The
(steps of bufTaio

at the raouth of
ters round Mr.
interrogatories,
to me by means
the Camarade.
vere represent-
. E. to the sea ;
e deep inlets of
north, towards
lowledge to de-

rous cascades and falls — and after a course more tortuous than that
of any river known to the oldest and most experienced of their
tribe, tumbling over its northern barrier in a foaming cataract into
the sea.

They also aflirmed — agreeing in this respect with the informa-
tion w hich had previously been given me at Lake Winnipeg, that
the distance between the mouth of the rivers was inconsiderable;
and concluded by saying, that if the Great Chief was determined
on going to the Thlew-ee-choh, it would be without an escort of
Indians, who, inured as they were to privation, would not expose
themselves to the suffering which, in a district so sterile, was in-
evitable. To say the truth, they were tired of the repetitions and
details of my questions; and no wonder; for before I began, they
had sat up with Mr. M'Leod the whole night, telling their prolix
stories with much cheerfulness. I could not help smiling at the ca-
marade, who, puzzled and distressed at the many positions in which
I requested he would place himself, so as to give me an idea of the
bearings of what he was describing, at last rather preevishly ex-
claimed, "that we did not place the world as it was; whereas he
kept steadily to the rising and setting sun."

In our progress down Slave River, we halted for a short time at
a cache of Mr. Stuart's, having his permission to take from it a
stock of birch bark, sufficient for building a new canoe. On the
8th of August we reached Great Slave Lake, and were received at
Fort Resolution by Mr. M'Donnell, the gentleman in charge.

[many of their

[act, they knew

obscurity. In

and that was,

ker the Thlew-

road and noble

ind birch, and

id. The latter

[narrow, shoal.

•Full of dange-

44

CHAPTER in.

:

.

:( •'■

Inquiries and Bmbarrassments about the Route. — Preparations for Departure. -
Embark in search of the Thlew-ee-choh. — Indian Encampment and Indian Po
liteness. — Point of Honour among Indian Hunters. — Description of the Couii
try through which the Route lay. — A small Iceberg seen. — A Bear Hunt. —
Indian Inconsistency. — Description of the Coast Line. — Point Keith and Chris
tie's Bay. — Eastern Extremity of Great Slave Lake. — Discovery of the Rivei
supposed to lead towards the Thlew-ee-choh. — Preparations to ascend it.

Soon after my arrival, 1 was informed by Mr. M'Donnell that
the chief, called " Le grand Jeune Homme," who had been men
tioned to me by Mr. Charles, was somewhere near the Buffalo Cre«k
a day or two from the house, employed in making canoes, in tht
full conviction that he was selected to accompany the expedition
and feeding his imagination with the thoughts of a boundless remu
Deration. Thinking it right to eradicate immediately so preposterou;
a notion, I despatched a couple of lads in a canoe, to acquaint him
of our arrival, and to require his attendance. In the mean time,
there being many Indians at the Fort, and among them a half-
breed, of the name of La Prise, whom I had seen on a previous
occasion, and who had now become a kind of leader of a small
party accustomed to hunt to the eastward, I thought it a good op-
portunity of gaining some information as to the bending of the Greai
Slave Lake, and the nature of the country at its eastern extremity
La Prise, who had been subjected to similar catechising by my friend
Sir Jolin Franklin, in 1820, at once understood me, and pointed to
the compass, as an instrument with which he was acquainted
Having been placed right over it, he pointed his hand in the di
rection of the places required, while I carefully noted tlicir magnetic
bearings; and it is but justice to state, that the whole of his de-
scription was subsequently found to be remarkably correct. He
made the lake run nearly north, and estimated the distance at about
five days' march, for a light canoe, well manned. A young hunter,
however, who had just come from that part, with a message from
one of his companions, diflfered from La Prise, and offered to
take me by a new cut to the Teh-Ion. .\ccording to his descrip-

INQUIRIES AND EMBARRASSMENTS.

45

)ti8 for Departure. -
meiit and Indian Pu
^ription of the Coun
— A Bear Hunt. -
jint Keith and Chris
iscovery of tlie Rivei
ns to ascend it.

•. M'Donnell that
0 had been men-
he Buffalo Creek
ng canoes, in the
ly the expedition
boundless remu
ly so preposterou;
to acquaint him
the mean time,
ong them a hall-
cn on a previouj
eader of a small
jht it a good op-
ing of the Great
astern extremity
ing by my friend
e, and pointed to
was acquainted
hand in the <li
d their magnetic
vhole of his de-
ly correct. He
istance at about
young hunter,
a message from
and offered to
to ins descrip-

tion, there was a water comunication the whole way, with the ex-
•eption of three portages, probably near the height of land. With
this local knowledge of, I may say, every inch of ground in those
directions, it was not a little singular that he, as well as all the rest
of his tribe, was utterly Ignorant of the situation of the Thlew-ee-
choh. Not so, however, of its evil qualities ; and, like the Camarade,
they agreed, one and all, in magnifying its dangers, and deprecating
any rash attempt to launch a boat on its unnavigable waters. "And
why," said they, " should the chief wish to go tliere^ when the
Teh-ion is not only nearer, but offers him so many more advan-
tages ? where he will find musk ox, moose, and rein-deer, wood,
fish, and animals wherewith to pass a comfortable winter. It is
true," continued they, "that our fathers did go down the Thlew-ee-
choh, when they made war on the Esquimaux, a long .time ago ;
but how few returned? and who is there now to tell of what they
did, and what befell them? IVo one; — they are in the land of
spirits, and our old men only remember their names."

Nor was this the only discouragement of my projected route by
the Tniew-ee-choh, for at the same time a circumstance came to
ligiit, as unexpected as it was unwelcome. A Canadian, named
Sanp^re, had formerly, at Sir John Franklin's request, been sent
by llie gentleman at that time in charge of Fort Resolution, to as-
certain the existence of the Thlew-ee-choh. The man accordingly
set out, in company with tiie natives, and on his return gave a de-
tailed account of his journey, liut his guides, to some of whom I
was speaking, now affirmed that on reaching the end of the lake next
to Great Slave Lake, he became alarmed; and in spite of all their
efforts and remonstrances, refused to go farther, and returned back
without having seen or even approached the river. They related
minutely all particulars, and ended by remarking, that I was no
stranger to Indians, and that when I passed the spot I should find
that they had spoken the Iri.ith.

The account given by Sanpere had been generally credited ; and
I confess I was of the number of those who had relied on his vera-
city. This, however, being now rendered doubtful, if not absolutely
destroyed, I was left in a state of very imcomfortable uncertainty.
Besides, though the sketch of the young hunter represented the
^Teh-Ion as running to the westward of north, and the position of the
fun was in favour of its maintaining that course, still I could not re-
jfioncile to myself the notion of high woods, frequented by moose, on

40

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE.

the banks of a river flowing through the barren grounds, except on
the supposition that it trended far away to the south-east, in a line foi
Hudson's Bay. Ultimately, therefore, after much embarrassment and
perplexity, I decided on following up the original plan, aslaiddovv'nio
the paper read before the Royal Geographical Society; comfoiting
myself with the reflection, that the observations of Black Mea'^, au
old Indian warrior, whom I had known in 1820, were as likely io be
correct in this instance, as they had proved to be in other particuhrs
on the two former expeditions.

My resolution being taken, 1 divided my crew into two partipji
Five were to be left as an escort for Mr. M'Leod, and four were to
accompany me in my search for the Thiew-ee-choh.

It happened, fortunately, that there was at the Fort a half-sized
canoe, which was both lighter to carry, and in other respects more
convenient than the larger one, for getting up the shoal streams
■which we expected to find to the eastward. This was immediately,
therefore, put in repair ; while Mr. M'Leod, who had the service as
much at heart as myself, gave me the benefit of his assistance in ai
ranging our future operations.

He undertook to wait and appease the Grand Jeune Homme,
under the disappointment which it was thought he would feel at
being rejected : for, knowing from past experience the constant
trouble and anxiety that a leader, spoiled and indulged as he had
been, would probably have give" us, I deemed it more prudent, as
it was certainly more economical, to dismiss him altogether, with a
douceur for lost time, than to rest my hopes, and possibly the safety
of my whole party, on the exertions of the most fickle and waver-
ing of his tribe. Such a step, moreover, was necessary, by way
of example, to moderate the extravagant notions entertained by the
Indians of our liberality; for, too dull to comprehend the disinte-
rested principle on which the present expedition was undertaken,
and viewing it in the same light as the preceding ones, they ex-
pected the same measure of bounty ; and sunk into a moody silence,
when told that I had only brought goods enough to satisfy the de-
mands of my hunters ; and that against them, as well as the others,
a strict account would be kept.

The interpreter I had brought with me was a pure Indian, — a
Chippewyan, who, under the auspices of the Company, had re-
ceived the rudiments of an education at the Bed Biver (^oloiiy.
But being unaccustomed to speak his native tongue, he was not al-

EMHAUK IN SEARCH OF THE TllLLW-KE-ClIOII.

4T

)unds, except on
-east, in a line for
ibarrassment and
n, aslaiddovk'nin
liety; comfoiling
t Black Mea'i, an
ere as likely io he
other particulirs

into two parties,
and four were lo
b.

Fort a half-sized
ler respects more
he shoal streams
was immediately,
bad the service as
s assistance in ar-

d Jeune Homme,
he would feel at
nee the constant
uiged as he had
nore prudent, as
Itocrether, with a
ossibly the safety
ckle and waver-
icessary, by way
tertained by the
end the disinte-
kvas undertaken,
ones, they ex-
moody silence,
satisfy the de-
ll as the others,

)ure Indian, — a
Ipany, had rc-

lliver (^^olony.

he was not al-

together adapted for the first introduction of a party amongst Indians,
many of whom but rarely visited the trading establishnienis : — and,
as much depended on the information to be communicated, and
perhaps not less on the impression made on the people by tho
manner of address, I requested Mr. M'Donnell to lend me his in-
terpreter, Louison, who had travelled with me before, and who,
from his intimate acquaintance with the surrounding tribes, was pe-
culiarly well qudliiled for our purpose. The inconvenience to him
was considerable, yet, like the other gentlemen of the country, ho
cheerfully acceded to my request, and a temporary exchange was
effected, as agreeable, as I afterwards learnt, to Louison, as it was
to myself. We were here also provided with extra clothing and
•hoes, in the event of being caught by the frost; and the remainder
of the time, I occupied in making observations on the dip, force, etc.,
by which it appeared that an increased difference of three degrees
easterly had taken place since 1825, in the variation.

While we were discussing our usual dinner of hard dried meat
and pemmican, one of the hunters burst into the room, with the
glad tidings of his having killed a moose deer, of which he had
brought a small yavt with him. At the same moment, the servant
entered with a bladder of fat in his hand, a sight which, from the
great scarcity of that luxury, so surprised Mr. M'Donnell, that he
exclaimed, "Good God! from what part of the country did that
come?" Nor will this appear strange, when it is known, that he had
not tasted any fresh meat since April ; nor had I seen any since
leaving Fort William.

Having written some letters of business, and left further instruc-
tions for Mr. King, I embarked the next morning, August 11th,
at 0 A, M., in my old canoe, now manned by one Englishman
(William Malley, H. A., my servant), one Canadian, two half-
breeds, and two Indians. The weather was squally and threaten-
ing, and a heavy swell, which sometimes rose into crested waves,
warned us to avoid the open lake, and seek the proteclion of the
windward islands. The canoe shipped much water, hut the men
kept on their work, and, after crossing an exposed bay, we soon
reached the muddy entrance of the Little Channel. This took us
to the Slave Hiver, which we traversed, and discovered, on the
eastern bank, a large party of Indians, who proved to be the same
we had seen at Salt River. They were assembled in little groups,
jinking that, according to the general custom of the traders, we

4H

INDIAN ENCAMPMENT.

\

III

should land; but perceiving that it was not our intention to do so,
they called out, " What! does the great chief go past, without even
offering us a pipe of tobacco?" However, on we passed, and en-
tered a very narrow channel, where I began the survey, and shortly
after another, called Cha-bilka, which is said to come from some
lakes not far distant. Near to this was an Indian encampment, the
occupants of which were busily and noisily employed in drying
the meat of three recently killed moose. The successful hunters,
apparently not a little vain of their prowess, were either lying ai
full length on the grass, whiffing the cherished pipe, or lounging on
their elbows, to watch the frizzling of a rich marrow -bone, the cus-
tomary perquisite of their labours. Women were lighting or tend-
ing the (ires, over which were suspended rows of thinly sliced
meat, — some screaming to thievish dogs making free with tlit
hunt, and others with still louder screams endeavouring to drowi:
the shrill cries of their children, who, swaddled, and unable to stir
were half suffocated with the smoke; while, to complete the scene
eight or ten boys at play were twining their copper-coloured bodie«
over and under some while bark canoes, like so many land dol
phins. Poor creatures, their happiness was at its full : at that mo
ment they were without care, enjoying themselves according U
their nature and capacity. Is human happiness ever much mon
than this?

A clump of trees had prevented me from observing anolhc
group, consisting of La Prise and his followers. He had under
taken to paddle my half-sized canoe to the other end of fhe lake
but finding, as he said, that two persons were required to keep liei
free from water, he had wisely put on shoie to repair her. Aftei
that operation twelve of them, with several dogs, squeezed them
selves into her, and yet managed so well, that we had hard work ((
keep Avay with them. On parting from the Indians, we were sup
plied with fresh meat. One of them, to show his respect, put on ^
surtout that he had purchased at the Fort. The coat was unbiit
toned; and as he was unprovided with inexpressibles, the eflec
was extremely comical. It is curious, by the way, to observe tliii
the notion of testifying respect by appearing in full dress, if in ihi'
case the term can he properly applied, is not confined to drawing
rooms and courts.

Hemmed in by willows on cither side, we occasionallly got a
glimpse of the lake through various little creeks and openings, am:

\h

'A

I

CROSS THE (JIlANDi: fMVlDRK A JF. \N.

H»

trtiortly crossed lhe(«raiule Hivi«>rc .\.lcan, fo enter llio Polifo lu-
vi«!re a .lean, where llie stream was in our favour. Its course was
vncouimonly tortuous, the banks being bordered by low land, co-
vered with pine, , poplar, and willow. The sharp sight of the
Indians had detected a moose some distance ahead ol us, and La
Prise, being expert at approacliing those fjuick-eared animals, went
in pursuit. Meanwhile we dropped silently down the stream along
the opposite side, until a place was found dry enough for encamp-
ing. The night was clear and bright; and the men were earnestly
watching the boiling of a kettle of meat, when they were startled by
a long shrill whoop, which Louison the intoipreter immediately
answered, announcing, at the same time, that it was the small canoe,
and that La Prise had killed his game. The splash of paddles was
now heard in the distance; and in a few minutes the canoe, with its
many inmates, glided against the long grass, on the bank of the en-
campment, under the broad shade of which nothing was visible but
the daik heads ol the Indians, as they appeared and vanished, with
the motion of their canoe. W hen Louison inquired if he had been
successful, La Prise, with the characteristic of a true Chipewyan,
answered in the negative, Oofa/i. Oolah! re-echoed the inter-
preter, in a disappointed tone, oolah! "Monsieur, il a manque; who
ever heard of the whoop without its accompanying prey?" Scarcely
were the words out, when La Prise was at his side; and as he
handed him the gun, gave from the other hand the fine tongue and
nose of a moose. "There," said he; "I shot it through the heart,
through an opening between the trees not wider than my hand: but
it was with youi- gun and annnunition, which, according to our
customs, you know, makes it your property. I lliought the Chief
would like to have the tongue and the noso,* and the rest lies at
the bottom of the canoe for your disposal." This restraint on their
appetite was the more remarkable, as they had scarcely eaten any
thing for several days past; and the few scraps with which their
friends had supplied them could not have sufficed for a single meal.
But they never infringe this law among themselves; and nothing
but imminent starvation would excuse, the Indian who should
transgress it. Nevertheless, such conscientious dealin-? merited a
/ dress, if in tlii' reward from me, wliich was easily bestowed by allowing La Prise
ned to drawing «nd his party to retain the larger proportion of the animal. '

('oiisidered \hp clioicp parts.

tention to do so,
1st, without even
passed, and en-
[•vey, and shortlj
come from sorap
encampment, tlio
ployed in drying
cccssful hunters,
8 either lying at
B, or lounging on
w-bone, thecus-
lighting or tend-
I of thinly sliced
ng free with tlit
/ouring to drown
nd unable to stir
mplete the scene
r-coloured bodies
> many land dol
full : at that mo-
ves according ti
ever much morr

^serving anothc

He had under

nd of the lake

lired to keep liei

pair her. Altei

squeezed them

iad hard work t{

s, we were sup

espect, put on »

coat was unbul

iibles, the effec

to observe tlia

kasionallly got i I
Id openings, am:

»(>

DEbCUIl'TION OF THE COINTIIY

August I2tli. — Wc conlinued our course down llic Little Bivci
but (lie cold uorth-west wind, w hicli bent the pines with its violenrr
loo pluiuly indicated what was passing on the lake, which, accor
dingly, on our arriving at it, presented so stormy an appearance, a'
lo forbid our venturing failhei-, and conipelled us reluctantly i
encamp. Tiie night was very boisterous, and the morning of llu
\'M\\ wore a threatening aspect ; but suddenly it fell calm, the wiui
change*! to south, and by (5 a. m. we were enabled lo put out Ini
the wide expanse of the lake. Keeping along the low awamp
shore, thickly mailed with drift wood, wc made for a jutting elevation
called Uocky Point, and then striking off in a northerly direction
paddled with spirit for a cluster of distant islands, which, owing !
ilic refraction of the atmosphere, appeared as if poised in the sk\
This is the traverse so much d.'i'aded by the Indians, who, bavin
no stouter craft than their .small canoes, are in great danger (
perishing, if unhappily caught by a gale. A light breeze sprun.
up to assist us, and, with the aid of the paddles, the islands wei
gained by 1 1 a. m. They were loo numerous to be counted; hi
most of them were marked by small clum|)S of dwarf pine, and tli
one on which we landed produced whortleberries and cranberrie;
The rocks were all granitic, being either gray with plates of mict
or red felspar with quartz. From this position I could ^ee the Rein
deer Islands and 31'Kenzie's cape to the westward, i lomarkabi
high round rock with innumerable islands to the northward, a clea
horizon and spots of land to the eastward , and the main shore i
the southward. Sending La Prise forward, that I might mor
easily get my bearings by having him as a mark, I followed myse
shortly afterwards, but in no very amiable mood, having jii;
discovered that either the bow or steersman had left our onlyfryia
pan at the last encampment, for the benefit of whoever might fin
it. This was a matter of no small consequence to me, wli
however ready to rough it on pemmican, had been enjoyin
prospectively, for some days past, the rich rein-deer steaks wliit
the "barren grounds" were sure to afford; nor did the assurance
the interpreter, who maintained that the "grillades" were justi
good done in a kettle, afford me much consolation.

Following the small canoe through a labyrinth of island:
more or less wooded, some steep, round, and bare, other
broken or shelving, covered with low pine and birch, we maJi
a short turn to IN. IS. E., and opened into a fine long reack

.11

"^

TimOl Llll NVIIKJII llIK KOLTIi LAY

hi

n the Little Kivci

s witli its violenof

ake, which, accor

an appearance, a-

I ns rchictantly |i

ihc inorniht^ of lli*

fell cahn, tlie wiii^

ed to put out irii

? the h)w awanip

a jutting elevation

ortherly direction

s, which, owing !

poised in the sk\

iaus, who, haviii,

:i great danger i

ght breeze spriin.

i, the islands wei

0 be counted; hi

Iwarf pine, and tli

cs and cranberiie;

ilh plates of mica

could ^ee the Rein

arci, i lamarkabi

northward, a clea

the main shore i

hat I might mor

I followed myse

nood, having jii:

eft our onlyfryin

loever might fin

nee to me, wli

id been enjoyin

eer steaks wlik

d the assurance

des" were just i

1.

rinth of islandi
nd bare, otliei^
1 birch, we mad
fine long reac^

bounded on each side by rocks, varying in height from two himdred
to a thousand feet; which resembled in some parts tho^e to the
westward, about the Cros (>ap, and in others still more closely the
red granite of Chipcwyan. The necessity of despatch forbade my
landing, to ascertain thedilference in these respects. The character
of the scenery, so difTcrent from that which we had (juitted in the
morning, together with the northerly trending of the land, was the
more gratifying, as it coincided w ith the Indian accoimts, and led me
to expect a long extent of navigation. The driftwood, found in
such piles fiom the Slave lUver to the IM'Kenzie, and far along the
east and west shores of the lake, had now disappeared, and the
water, no lunger turbid and yellow, was of a pellucid green. Its
temperature was o*i°, while that of the surrounding air was 58°,
having increased 12" since the morning. The extensive islands
assumed a more mountainous character as wc advanced ; and it
was observable that the western ones were more thickly wooded
than those to the eastward. Through occasional vistas, the distant
blue land was seen faintly in the clear horizon to the right. At H
p. M,, the people being completely tired, I encamped for the night.

August I Ith.— The thermometer had sunk to .%*; and when at
4 A. M. we resumed our cuuise, the water was found to be slightly
encrusted with ice, which, together with the cold wind, so cracked
and injuredthebarkofthe canoe, as to make it necessary to repair her.

The country to the left became gradually less rugged, subsiding
into round-backed hills, whose sloping sides weie covered with wood;
the uniformity being agreeably broken by two light columns of smoke
issuing at separate points, most likely from the (ires of some
straggling hunters. Hut the scenery to the right increased in
grandeur and boldness; and never, either in Alp or Apennine, had
I seen a picture of such rugged wildness. Rising to a perpen-
dicular height of upwards of twelve hundred feet, the rocks were
rent, as if by some violent convulsion, into deep chasms and ragged
fissures, inaccessible to the nimblest animal. A few w ithered pines,
gray with age, jutted their shrivelled arms from the extreme ridge of
the abyss : on one of which a majestic llshing eagle was seated,
and there, unscared by our cries, reigned in solitary slate, the mo-
narch of the rocky wilderness. Salvator alone could have done
justice to the scene.

I As we proceeded, the view was obstructed in part by two conical
liills, apparently unconnected with the shore on either side, and ex-

5-2

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY

lii<

i 1

"eedingly pictiirestjue in llicir outline. They were not I'ak from a
point of'he eastern main ; whence, taking a long sweep to u.
right, and then stretching soutlj and west in a broad belt ol" filteen
or twenty miles, it ultimately joins Hocky Point, at a distance o;
about lilty miles, measured in a direct line. To the whole of the
islands included in this range I gave the name of Simpson s Cirou|).
in token of my estec;m for the Governor. The channel between tlio
western islands and the main is, in some parts, not more than a
quarter of a mile broad ; and this contraction is rendered the more
apparent by the ripple of a rather strong southerly current, not
observable elsewhere. It is favorable for fish, and subsequently
a station was formed here. On opening round the northern end of
the channel, a magnilicent expanse of water was seen east and
wcl, with clear horizons, dotted however with three islands, from
the light mural c\\f^\ of which the rays of the setting sun were
softly reflected. The peninsula, dividing the waters of the south and
north side of the eastern main, has been called Point Keith, in coni-
phi..8nt to Mr. .1. Keith, the Compntiy's agent at Montreal, whos«»
name has already been rr.entioned in terms of merited commeii
dation.

We next crossed a wide traverse towards some table hills, forming
part of what the Indians called Rein-deer Island, the walled sides
of which rose fai above the sloping cud wooded country at their
base ; and here we landed, to examine more closely its diversified
formation. Either from the grinding pressure of the immensr
masses of ice that are forced on this exposed coast, or from the con-
tinued action of breaking waves, the whole line of shove, for two or
three miles, is composed of a kind of pudding stone ; containiiin
large and small stones, all more or less globular, cemented by a
yellowish clay, which has become as hard as reck. It varies in ele
vation from six to for'y feet, and appears to run into the adjacent
rocks, which aUain an altitude of from fourteen hundred to twd
thousand feet.with an irregularity which contrasts strongly with tin
flov. ;,ig outline of the w estern main, now discernible to the distanrt
of twelve or llfteen miles. He-embarking, we made for the poiiii
of an island, resorted to by the Indians for a particulai" stone, used
lor the making of pi{)es, and generally of a greenish-gray colour. On
this occasion it was visited for the purpose of allowing one of them tc
inspect a small deposit of tobacco, which in some season of aflluenco
he had concealed among the rocks. F lis little treasure was in safety

It

u

P'

VI

H

§

THROUGH WHICH THb; ROUTE LAY

53

lot i'sLi from a

sweep to li..

belt ol" fifteen

a distance oi

} whole of the

ipson s Group,

el between tlip

t more than u

lered the more

y current, not

1 subsequently

orthern end of

seen east and

i islands, from

[ing sun were

the south and

veilh, in coni-

)ntreal, whos**

ited commen

e hills, forminf.'

le walled sides

untry at their

its divei'silied

the immense

from the con-

c, lor two or

; containir.g

mented by a

varies in clc

the adjacent

(iced to two

ngly with the

0 the distanot'
or the point
■ stone, used

colour. On
ne of them (c

1 of aflluencc
I'as in safely,

and, trustin^^ to my supplying his wants, he allowed it to remain
lor a future emergency.

The south-west face of the rock' was smooth and almost perpen-
dicular ; and as we bore up to the north-east, it became still more so,
e.\lending to the extreme limit of sight, in one uninterrupted mural
precipice, along the base of which was a succession of trap hills,
v\ ith similar faces, and rounded summits. I could not but remark
tt*e rese'nblance of these last to the formations around Point Lake,
aadonlhe coast to the eastward of the Copper-mine. Heing unable
to land on this side, we made for the north main shore, on the decli-
vities of which some patches of last winter's snow were yet visible.
Here we disembarked ; and, the tent having been pitched, La Prise
set a net, which the following morning produced a few white fish, a
trout, and. what siuprised the Indians, an inconnu.

August l.j. — A smart head wind with a pitching sea did not allow
us to do much with the paddles ; and though we sought the lee of
any thing that oflered shelter, we were soon obliged to lie by. Pre-
sently intelligence was brought me that La Prise and an Indian in
my canoe were ijuarrelling in a manner that lorel)oded a disagree-
able termination. My appearance rather separated than reconciled
them; since La Prise, in going apart, muttered out, "You may
thank the ( tuief ; but it h not finished : we shall meet on the barren
lands." The weather becoming more lavourahle, the journey was
continued, and we got to a narrow passage called Tal-thel-leh, or
the part that does not IVeeze, — a fact verified during two successive
winters, but for which we .'oald assign no cause. The right shore
was particularly bold and imposing : it was a continuation of the
trap formation from Pipe-stone Point, with this dilferenceonly, that
here it had the glittering light brown appearance of mica slate, and
was piled, terrace upon terrace, to a height of eight hundred feet.
The dip .>f the rar.^e was ^^ E. by E., with the fiu-c of the cliffs nor-
therly. To the left, and not more than a mile from the trap, the
rocko were principally gneiss, with here and there a jutting mound
of red granite or porphyry. A southerly current was perceptible
i'l the narrow ; though the Indian positively allirmed, that it was
the reverse in winter, as the ice was invariably packed towards
the north, and not towards the south of the strait. A few larch and
. pine were thinly scattered ; and the general appearance presented

SaliHc Markcnzii. See Hiclianlson'ri A|)|)ondix to Prankliii

ft

54

A HKMi MINT.

i^li

il.^1

was that of rounded hills, iiilersected on the one side by valleys,
and on the other cut off in part by the mural precipices of tlip
island already mentioned, which here rose into seven consecutive
ranges, producing a singular and striking effect. Another island
between this and the main, consisting of a single rock, the southern
face of which was broken into columnar cliffs with large rhom-
boidal fractures, seemed to be basaltic.

The wind had fallen; but a heavy swell was running from llic
clear horizon before us, and dashed against the rocks with a violenct
sufficient to swamp a lleet of canoes. The smaller of the two ca-
noes took in much water at every pitch; and as she leaked besides,
the Indians prudently made for a small bay, where they landed, willi
no other damage than that of getting wet. They immediately called
out to me not to persevere, as the shore was inapproachable foi
many miles, and added, that several of their friends had perished in
the same place, from disregarding this counsel. And, indeed, we
found as we proceeded a high surf lashing the beach; and had a
gale come on, which, however was not indicated by the clouds, w
might have had reason to repent our obstinacy. A large piece o;
ice was seen floating in the distance, in the pride of a miniatiirt
berg ; a sight which so surprised the Canadian, who had been loni:
to the southward, near the Columbia, that he exclaimed, "Cela va
bien, nous ne sommes pas mal avances au nord," and the poor fel-
low actually thought we could not be far from the sea.

While rounding a projecting bluff or headland, near which I was
told there was a river, our attention was attracted to the crest of a
steep rock where the keen eye of the Indian detected a poor bear
quietly regaling himself with a feast of berries. "Sasslsass!"
whispered he, and in a moment all were down to a level with llit
canoe, and remained motionless, except the bowman, who persists'
in making signs perfectly vnintelligible ; until at last he said, in an
under totiC, "Dites-lui d'oter son bonnet rouge,* p-ining my ser-
vant, an honest Lancashire lad, who, not understaiiomg a word ol
[''rench, had never ceased iv) look at the bear without once thinkini
of his flaming red cap. " What!" exclaimed he, as be took it oil
"will it frighten him ?" The interpreter and Indian waded on shore
and crawling silently through the bushes, were soon lost to oiii
sight. In a lew minutes a couple of shots, followed by a whoop

Sasfc, bear.

INDIAN lNC0NSi8T»iNCY

side by valleys,
i-ecipices of tin
;ven conseculivc
Anotlier island
►ck, llie soiitliern
til large rhom-

inning from the
s with a violence
!• of the two ca-
3 leaked besides
hey landed, witli
tmediately called
pproachable foi
i had perished in
nd, indeed, we
lach; and had a
y the clouds, w
A large piece o,
I of a miniaturt
o had been loni:
imed, " Cela va
nd the poor fel-
sea.

ear which I \v,i^
the crest of .1
ted a poor bear
Sass ! sass !"
level with llu
, who persistci!
he said, in ni;
ining nny ser
(ting a word ol
it once thinkins
he took it oil
vaded on shoi*^
)on lost to 0111
d by a whoop

proclaimed the fate of bruin ; and we landed at a convenient spot
to fetch the meat. While the men were absent on this errand, I
strolled about and saw some gooseberries and currants on the bushes,
still unripe; there were also a few roses yet in bud, the colour of
which was a deeper red than that of the roses which grow more
south. A brood of young ducks was likewise observed.

The party at length returned : the animal being small, was slung
on the bowman's back ; and as he had placed a stick in its mouth to
keep the jaw apart, and then tucked the head under his arm, his ap-
pearance, as he brushed through the wood, was ludicrous enough.

The evening being far advanced, we took advantage of a snug bay
that completely sheltered the canoe from danger, and very soon
after La Prise also arrived. He stated that after my departure he
had discovered that the frost of the preceding night had split the
canoe in several places, which at once accounted for its leaking; and
that having repaired it, he preferred the risk of coming on to the
chance of being left behind. The truth was, that having no provi-
sion of their own, his parly regularly was supplied from our stock,
and could ill brook, therefore, even a short separation. The aurora
was brilliant, and in rapid motion until midnight, when the wind
increased so much, that we could not move from the bay. The
hunters were despatched in every likely direction to find deer; and,
though unsuccessful, were much pleased at the many recent tracks
they had seen.

By a set of observations made here, the latitude was found to be
62" 45' 35 " N., the longitude by chronometers was 111" 19 52-7
W., and the variation by Kater's compass 45° 31' E. Thermometer
at 3 p. M. 540.

August 17. — The nets having been set over night, produced eight
white lish and a trout, which were equally divided; and at 4 a. m.
we got away, and paddled against a cold north-east breeze. The
main on one side, and a range of islands on the other, screened us,
however, from its effects, so that by breakfast time we had accom-
plished a satisfactory distance, having passed on our way another
small berg, and some patches of snow, which still lingered in the
fissures and deep gullies of the hills. It is always dillicult to get at
the real meaning of an Indian, even on subjects with which he has
been to a certain extent acquainted all his life, and on which one
might reasonably expect something like a straightforward answer.
They now began to hint that the Teh-Ion was fur away to the south

4

iit;

DESCllll'TlON (>[' TllK COAST LrNE.

-i^i';

■HI

" 1

n

and east, and that the portages between the intervening lakes wer*
long and bad lor the transport of baggage, if not altogether iinprac
ticable. The Indians, it was observed, were never encumbered with
any thing heavier than their guns, and perhaps a small canoe, whicb
was often left, in case the carriers were unable or unwilling to take
it on. From the direction, too, in which they pointed to it, 1 was
the more confirmed in my former opinion, not only that it lay con-
siderably to the eastward, but also that it inclined towards Hudson^
Bay.

On the other hand, one of the party confessed that he had been
onthe Thlew-ee-choh when he was a boy; and though, as he had
gone by land, he had no exact knowledge of the route by water
still he knew that there was a river about a day's march oft", leading
to some lakes which would eventually conduct us to it. His onl\
apprehension was, whether the canoe could be conveyed in any
manner over the mountains and falls, in our way to the Barrei.
Lands, where we should find the lakes to which he had alluded
"We Indians," said he, " should not think of attempting it, but tlit
white men are strong." On such a subject it was scarcely prudent
to hazard an assertion: but as much depends on iirst impressions,
1 did not hesitate to assure him, that I had the power to surmount
all such obstacles as he had described, and only required an active
hunter like himself to accompany me, for which, I added, he should
be well remunerated ; though, to say the truth, the general appear-
ance of the country, and the increasing altitude of the mountains
rendered it evident that no couunon exertion would be required to
get to either of the large rivers, and in the decision to which I now
finally came, I considered myself as having merely chosen the
lesser evil of the two.

Still, coasting along the northern shore, and a continuous link
of islands to the right, we came to a place distinguished, by the
Chipewyan and Yellow Knife Indians, by the emphatic appellation
of "The Mountain." Here it is their custom to leave their canoes
when they go to hunt the rein-deer on the Barren Lands; and few
have much acquaintance with the country beyond it. Three or
lour of La Prise's crew, influenced by their old habits, could not
bring themselves to pass the rock at which they had always landed ;
and separated from us here, under the plea of going to join their
families. The {Mountain rises gradually from the water's edge
into round backed ridges of gneiss, with intervening valleys ralhei

CIllUSTIES BAY.

j<

ning lakes wer*
ogether imprac
ncumbered with
all canoe, whicL
inwilling to take
lied to it, 1 was
that it lay con-
wards HudsonV

lat he had beer

[)ugb, as he had

route by water

arch oft", leading

to it. His onh

onveyed in any

ly to the Barren

he had alluded

ipting it, but tilt

scarcely prudent

irst impressions.

jver to surmouni

uired an active

dded, he should

eneral appear-

the mountains

be required to

to which I now

ely chosen tlie

lontinuous link
[uished, by the
itic appellation
/e their canoes
mds; and few
lit. Three or
Ibits, couH not
llvvays landed:
to join their
water's edge
>'allevs ralhei

scantily wooded; and its various summits, consisting of a succession
of mounds or elevations of smooth and naked granite, in the form
of obtuse cones, rarely attain a greater height than from ten to
fourteen hundred feet. The Mountain River is seen near its base,
and precipitates itself, in a picturesque fall, over a ledge of craggy
rocks, into the lake. Opposite this is the termination of the
islands beginning atTal-thel-leh ; and a line drawn from thence due
south cuts a huge bluft', forming the western angle ofGah-houn-
Ichella, or Rabbit Point. This indented isthmus juts out in a
W. N. W. direction from the eastern main, and, overlapping the
immense island of Peth-the-nueh, or Owl Island, so as to make the
land seem continuous, gives the appearance of a deep bay, of
which, together with the island, it seems to be the boundary. In
truth, however, the eff'ect so produced is an optical illusion, occa-
sioned by the distance and refraction of the objects; for although
the blue outline appears perfectly unbroken, yet Gah-houn-tchella
was subsequently discovered to be the northern opening to a narrow
strait leading into a magnificent inner bay, at the south part of
which we afterwards established a fisheiy. Still farther south
than the fishery is another narrow passage, hemmed in on the west
by the mural precipices of Peth-the-nueh, and on the east by lofty
granitic mountains. Tiiis forms the outlet to a part of the lake
which is bounded by the horizon, the whole space being one sheet
of water as far as Point Keith. The southern shore I have ventured
to lay down, according to the dotted lines in the chart, after a
patient investigation of various Indian accounts, all of which mako
its distance from Peth-the-nueh rather more than I have fixed upon.
Peth-the-nueh, or Owl Island, is an accumulation of trap moun-
tains, having their least altitude at P'jje-slone Point, opposite Rein-
deer Island, and their greatest, at the narrow passage south of
Gah-houn-tchella. Its whole length east and west is fifty-four
geographical miles, and the breadth of the lake a little beyond
Mountain River, in a line due south, may be fairly estimated at not
less than thirty-nine miles. It lies between the two main shores,
somewhat nearer to the north : the rivers to the southward and
eastward are of some magnitude, and are continually resorted to
by the Chipewyans ; yet, though acquainted w ith every rapid and
.turn in them, they were unable to point out or even aft'ord a guess
ai their sources. The one, however, with the islands at its entrance,
which is laid down as running into (In istie's liav, — si* called alter

ill

K

58

HOAR FROST RIVER.

. .i

I, I

m

L

:>:

hm^»

Mr. Chief-Factor Cbrislie, of the Company's service, whose prompt
and courteous services I have pleasure in again alluding to, — is
often visited by them in the spring, for the purpose of shooting
swans, with which at that season it abounds.

Continuing our course along the hard and rocky line of the
northern shore, we passed a picturesque torrent; which, from a
thread of shining silver in the distance, came gamboling down tlio
sleep declivities, and then mingled gently with the broad waters ol
the lake. Near it w.iS the Rocky Point River, just beyond whicli
we encamped, at the close of a beautiful day, in which the thermo-
meter had stood at 52".

August 18th. — We started at 4 a.m. under the impression that a
couple of hours would certainly bring us to the river spoken of by
the Indians; but at the spot where we hoped to find a river there
was merely another torrent. " That is not it," said Maufelly, the
Indian before spoken of, who was to be our guide ; so on we went,
paddling along the lake, now contracted to a width of five or six
miles, and apparently terminating near a blue point in the south-
east, which, however, turned out to be the bend leading into a deep
bay, forming the eastern portion of Great Slave Lake. As it seemed
that a long circuit might be avoided, by making a portage in a fa-
vourable part, almost in a direct line before us, I was about to give
directions accordingly, when launching past some rocks, which had
shut out the land in their direction, we opened suddenly on a small
bay, at the bottom of which was seen a splendid fall, upwards of
sixty feet high, rushing in two white and misty volumes into the
dark gulf below. It was the object of our search — the river whicli
we were to ascend; so, without noticing the very significant ges-
tures of my crew, indicating the impossibility of ascending it, I im-
mediately landed, and set them about drying and thoroughly
repairing the small canoe. An additional blanket or two, with some
other requisites, having been set apart, all the other baggage, to-
gether with the large canoe, was placed under the charge of La
Prise, who undertook to wait for and deliver them to Mr. M'Leod,
The observations to-day gave the latitude 62" 50' 15' N., lon-
gitude 109" 47 54' W., and variatio.- 80" 52' E.

ftn

e, whose prompt
alluding to, — it,
pose of shooting

ocky line of the
; which, from a
iboling down the
broad waters ol
ist beyond whicli
hich the thermo-

impression tliat a
iver spoken of by
ind a river there
aid Maufelly, the
; so on we went,
dth of five or six
int in the south-
ading into a deep
ike. As it seemed
I portage in a fa-
svas about to give
rocks, which had
denly on a small
all, upwards of
volumes into the
-the river whicli
significant ges-
cending it, I inl-
and thoroughly
r two, with some
her baggage, to-
he charge of La
to Mr. M'Leod,
50' 15' N., Ion

( HAPTEK iV.

Difficult ami toilsome Ascent of Hoar Frost River. — Striking Scenery along Up
Course. — Illness of the Interpreter. — Encampment upon Cook's Lake. — As-
cent of another small River full of Rapiils. — Desertion of two Indians. — Per-
plexity of the Guide as to the proper Course, and Attemjit to desert. — Succes-
''in of Streams and Lakes. — Indian Account of the The-lew or Teh-Ion. —
"linton-ColUen, Aylmer, and Sussex Lakes. — Discovery of the Thlew-ee-

A N. .v scene now opened upon us. Instead of the gentle paddling
across the level lake, by which we had been enabled to pene-
trate thus far, we had to toil up the steep and rocky bed of an
unknown stream, on our way to the high lands, from which the
waters fake an opposite course. The labours which had been
hitherto so cheerfully undergone were little more than those to
which voyuf/curs are accustomed ; but in what was to come, it was
evident that extraordinary ed'orts and patient perseverance would
be required, to overcome the dillicuUies of our route. We now
learned from the Indians that the fall, to which, after my enterpris-
ing friend IJeverley, the companion of Sir E. Parry in his attempt to
reach the Pole, I have given the name of Ueverley's Fall, was the
commencement of a series of appalling cascades and rapids, wh' "h,
according to their account, were the distinguishing characteristics
of Hoar Frost River; and, indeed, some iifleen or twenty small
canoes, concealed in the bushes, belonging, as was conjectured, to
my old friend Akaitcho and his party, who were hunting on the
barren Lands, showed pretty clearly the obstacles we might expect
to encounter. Maufelly, however, maintained that it was the only
practicable route, and added, that by following its channel we should
shorten the distance, and not improbably fall in with an old man who
could give all the information I required about the Thlew-ee-choh.

The greater part of our lading, consisting of three bags of pem-
raican, with a little ammunition, tobacco, cVc, had been caiTied up
the ascent the evening before; and on the morning of the 19th of
August, after emptying a net whicli had been set, of a few blue and
white lish, the remainder was taken. The principal difHculty con-
I sisled in bearing the canoe over a slippery and tmeven acclivity,

'"n-.

r.o

STUIKINO SlENlillY.

thickly beset vvilli trees and underwood. The lirst ridge, wlierc \vt
rested, was formed of sand and debris from the surrounding rocks,
mostly red felspar and quartz. Having crossed a swamp, and
again ascended, we got to a point above a second fall, where a little
smooth pool, on which the canoe was launched, afforded a short
respite to the wearied men. Here [ dismissed La Prise, who, with
his two little boys, had assisted in conveying the things so far. Ho
was intrusted with a letter foi* Mr. JM'Leod, in which I directed him
to begin building an establishment, as soon as he should reach the
east end of the lake, which, as I calculated, could not be more than
a day's march from the river; informing him at the same time thai
F might be expected some time in September.

A few hundred yards' paddling along the pool brought us in sight
of fresh clouds of spray, rising from a third and a fourth fall, too
dangerous to approach ; and though the woods were extremely
thick, and consisted, for the greater part, of stunted swamp fir,
which gave us infinite trouble to force through, still there was no
alternative, and clambering over the fallen trees, through rivulets
and across swamps, as well as our burthens would permit, we at
length emerged into an open space. It was barren and desolate;
crag was piled upon crag, to a height of two thousand feet from the
base ; and the course of the contracted river, now far beneath, was
marked by an uninterrupted line of foam. After frequent halts to
recover breath, the summit of the difficult pass was attained ; the
blue lake which we had left, lay as if spread at our feet; and such
was the beauty of the varied outline, that we were captivated into a
momentary forgetfulness of our fatigue. But severe toil will tell on
the frame, however resolute the will ; and the interpreter, who had
for several days shown symptoms of indisposition, became now so
exhausted as to be barely able to proceed. The Indians aided him
by lightening his burthen, being themselves in high spirits, from
having seen spme fresh tracks of deer, which, according to their
notions, indicated an early hunting season, as it proved that those
ever shifting animals had begun to migrate from the north. The
descent towards the river was at first gradual, for the path lay over
the even though rounded surface of the rocks. But moss-covered
swamps soon followed, and then a precipice so abrupt and deep,
that, with no other incumbrance than my cloak and gun, it required
all my vigilance and exertion to save myself fi-om falling with the
loose masses which slid away from my feet.

iLLNKSs (»!' TiiK iNT!:n;»RTi:u.

ni

dgc, wlieic wt,
Dunding rocks,
swamp, and
I, where a li(tlo
Forded a slioii

ise, who, witli
gs so fur. Ho

I directed him
louhl reach tlio
t be more than
same time that

light us in sight
fourth fall, too
vere extremely
ted swamp fir.
11 there was no
hrough rivulets
1 permit, we at
1 and desolate;
id feet from the
ir beneath, was
cquent halts to
attained ; the
feet ; and such
ptivated into a
toil will tell on
jreter, who had
ecame now so
lians aided him
li spirits, from
[irding to their
ived that those
north. The
path lay over
moss-covered
ipt and deep.
|ui, it required
ing with thfi

The people with the canoe stood resolutely to their work, and
after a slip or fall, recovered theuiselves with such adroitness, thai,
after an interval of protracted anxiely, I enjoyed the satisfaction of
beholding her placed safe and sound in the stream below. The
course of the river could be traced N. N. K. about three miles, in
which, though there was evidently a strong cnrrent, nothing ap-
peared to break the glassiness of the surface. It was bounded on
each side by steep shelving rocks, cheerful with vegetation, and thinly
clad with birch, firs, and willows. The sun was too low, and the
crew too weaiied to move on ; and having paddled to the other side,
for the convenience of a level spot on which to pitch the tent, we
gladly halted for the night.

The laborious duty which had been thus satisfactorily performed,
was rendered doubly severe by the combined attack of myriads of
sand-Hies and mos(jui(os, which made our faces stream with blood.
.There is certainly no form of wretchedness, among those to which
the chequered life of a voi/(tf/rur is exposed, at once so great and so
humiliating, as the torture inflicted by these puny blood-suckers.
To avoid them is impossible : and as for defending himself, though
for a time he may go on crushing by thousands, he cannot long
maintain the unequal conflict; so that at last, subdued by pain and
fatigue, he throws himself in despair with his face to the earth, and,
half suffocated in his blanket, groans away a lew hours of sleepless
rest.

August ,20. — The thermometer had fallen to 36", and at four
A. M., as soon as the sunken rocks, and other impediments to our
progress, could be distinguished, we got away, and went on cheerily
enough, until interrupted by a rapid, which was succeeded by so
many more, that for the best part of the morning we did little else
than lighten the canoe and drag it up with a line : at length a fall of
twenty feet obliged us to carry both canoe and baggage. This passed,
other rapids presented themselves; until finally the canoe got so se-
riously damaged by the shocks, as to make us hasten on shore to
avoid sinking. The unhappy interpreter had been unable to take
any share in the work, and was evidently suffering severe pain,
which he begged of me to assuage. I had only a box of common pills,
and some brandy, neither of which could be prudently appliefl'to a
jcase which seemed to require the skill and attention of a professional
man. The poor fellow, however, persisted in his belief that 1 could
Relieve him, not doubting that any thing under the name of medicine

02

KNCAMPMENT I'PON COOKS LAKi:

' ivi

t •!,

in a

would answer llie purpose. 1 yielded, llierefore, lo his importunitv,
and indulged liiin, first with tlie contents of the box, which made
him worse; and next with the contents of the bottle, which made
him better.

Scarcely w.ss the cauoe repaired, and our lal)our recommenced,
when we weie involved in fresh troubles, l)ya uu)st iiilricato channel
of deep water, thickly studded with sharp angular rocks, sometimes
so close togclhei- as barely to allow of a passage. The stream having
at this part a considerable fall, rushed between or bidjblcd ovei
them, with a force that almost swept the hauling men oil their legs;
and no sooner had they with great resolution surmounted this dil-
iiculty, than a fresh demand was made on their energy by the ap-
pearance of three distinct falls, rising like huge steps to the hciglit
of forty-five feet. Again, therefore, the whole niatrru'l was to be
carried, much to the annoyance of the crew, to whom, on such oc-
casions, the sickness of any of their companions is a matter of serioiij
importance. One oi- two more rapids, and a narrow fall of twent\
feet, terminated the ascent of this turbulent and unfriendly river.
Nothing, however, can be more romantically beautiful than the wild
scenery of its court . High rocks beetling over the rapids like
towers, or rent into the most diversified forms, gay with various co-
loured mosses, or shaded by overhanging trees — now a tranquil
pool, lying like a sheet of silver— now the dash and foam of a ca-
taract,— these are a part only of its picturesque and striking fea-
tures.

The canoe having been completely repaired, we entered on a
difTerent scene. An amphitheatre of gently rising hills, interspersed
with rounded and barren rocks, and a few clumps of gloomy-looking
pines, rendered more conspicuous by the yellow sand on which they
grew, embraced a calm shcft of water, which, taking a northerly
direction, kept gradually widening to a distance of three or foui
miles. Some old ice still adhered to its banks, and the snow shoes
and bundles affixed to the poles of a recently deserted encampment,
showed that it was a resort of the Indians.

It was too late to gain the pines, for the sun had set; so we en-
camped on an island where we had observed that there were shrubs
enougli to cook the evening rtieal ; and had no sooner landed than
we were assailed by swarms of sand-ilies and mosquitos, which for
a time irritated us almost to madness. I do not know that there is
any thing very original in the idea, but as I contemplated the repose

ASrENT OF ANOTHER SMALL RIVKH.

03

Ilis importunily.
IX, which made
Ic, which made

r recommenced,
11 Iricato channel
ocks, sometimes
IC stream having
or huhbled ovei
en oil their legs;
mountctl this dil-
nergy by the ap-
jps to the height
(tir'u'l was to be
lom, on such ov-
mutter of serious
ow fall of twent\
unfriendly river,
iful than the wild
• the rapids like
with various co-
-now a tranquil
ind foam of a ca-
ind striking fea-

we entered on a

Us, interspersed

gloomy-looking

id on which they

iing a northerlv

of three or foui

the snow shoes

d encampment,

set; so we en-

ere were shrubs

ner landed than

itos, which for

ow that there is

ated the repose

and stillness of the evening landscape, mollowcd by the soft tints of
the western sky, and contrasted it with the noise, the impetuosity,
the intense animation and bustle of the inorning, it seemed to me
a type of that best period of the life of man, when to the turbulence
and energy of youlh succeeds the calm sobriety of ripened age. It
brought to my mind far distant friends, — one especially long known
and well esteemed ; in remembrance of whom I gave to the sheet
of water before me the name of Cook's liake.

As the night drew on, something was perceived indistinctly on the
lake ; it was neither a loon, nor a dtor, but its cautious motions
excited that sort of suspicion which made our invalid look about
him. He and the three Indians with mc determined that it must be
either a (/hipewyaii thief, or the scout of a party of Slave Indians,
who were at war with the Yellow Knives. As it turned out, how-
ever, neither of these conjectures was correct, for the object of ap-
prehension proved to be one of those who had left us at the mountain,
and w ho, having lost the only two charges of powder in his posses-
sion, had been driven to the necessity of performing this long journey,
to obtain the means of sustaining his family until they could get to
their friends. " Had there been only my wife with me," he said,
in a faint voice, " I would not have troubled the chief, for we could
have lived upon berric^; but when I looked on my child, and heard
its cries, my heart failed me, and I sought for relief." There needed
.110 other appeal ; having received a liberal supply of provision and
ammunition, the poor fellow went away the happiest of his tribe.

August, 1821. — Thin ice had been formed during the night;
though when we started, at 4 a. m., the thermometer stood at 38°. A
few miles northerly brought us to a river, barred by lifteen rapids,
varying in height from three to ten feet. In any other situation,
such a succession of interruptions would have seriously annoyed
me ; but I now regarded them with complacency, as the ladder by
which I was to mount to the dividing ridge of land, — the attainment
of that goal being all which at that late season I could hope to ac-
complish.

I had in De Charloit, the bowman, one of the most expert men

in the country, and in no place had his astonishing strength and

activity been called more into play than on this occasion. In the

. midst of dangers the most imminent from rapids or falls, he was

cool, fearless, aad collected ; and often, when the pole or paddle was

.(■'

ll'

iw

04

PEIM'LliXI lY Ol* THE (JUIDE.

no longer available, lie would spring into the curling water, and
with ulool iirruly planted, maintain his position, where i)lhers woiili
have been swept away in an instant. Hut in spite of all his care aiKi
exertion, our (rail vessel was sorely bulleted, and the. bark hung ir,
shreds along its sides, ripped and brokiMi in every quarter. Wi
were, therefore, not a little glad, when, alter a dillicidt poitagc, \\^
found another free and open water.

While the necessary |)atchiiig and gumming of the canoe wa-
going on, to render her light, I cliinh(ul to the lop of a short rangf
of rocks abojit two hundred feet high, and dipping to the eastward
From this elevation Maufelly pointed to a lake, on w hich he sait:
we were lo go a long way; adding, however, that, from the factd
his having been so snow-hlind when he last passed as to be led will
a string, he did not exactly remember the channel. He requested
therefore, permission to land at certain elevated places — one n
which he recognised, and pointed out as the spot where he lia>i
formerly killed a deer. Still this did not enlighten him as to tli
precise part we should make lor: and whether the two Indian bo\'
in the canoe differed with or distrusted him, or whether it was tin
mere caprice and unsteadmess of their nature, we knew not ; bi:
certain it was, that, on landing at a point of the shore, they begai
to prepare for a march, with the intention, as they said, of visitin
their relations, who they thought might be somewhere to the norlli
west. As there was no indication of Indians within range of tli
telescope, we tried to dissuade them from their purpose, for tlici
services, just then, were doubly requisite in order to carry the hai;
gage over the portages; and this the rogues well knevi, but will
invincible stubbornness they rejected every oiler that was madf
Finding they were determined, I supplied them with a little ammiiii!
tion, warning them at the same time to keep away irom my iw,
unless they brought with them a heavy load of good meat.

We then paddled among islands extending to a great distance
with an uninterrupted horizon to the westward. It was eviden
that Maufelly was puzzled ; for though he knew the general direc
tion, he was so little acquainted with the form of the lake, that \\i
constantly found ourselves either in a bay, or pulling round an iv
land. ISot liking to be baffled in this way, 1 landed, and ^ient D*
Charloit and the Indian to reconnoitre; and the result was, tlia
ihey descried a lake in the line of our intended course. The nios

ly

(o
to
of

W(!
pOS

rcii;

^

RETURN OF ONE OF TIIF DHSEKTFUS.

03

5 water, and

iOlhcM'S WOllli

II liiii care nm!

bark liiing n

[uarter. \\i

It portage, \\i

he canoe w,>
a sliort ranat
I tlie eastwani
wliicli he sail
0!n the fad o
to be led will
lie requcsloii
ilacrs — one o
where he lia;
I liitn as to tli
wo Indian bov
ther it was tin
inew not ; bi;
re, they begai
aid, ofvisiliii
•e to the nortli
n ranc^e otllii
pose, tor tlici
carry the bai;
new, but will
at was made
little ammuiii
I from my rnri,
neat.

real distance

t was evideii

general direc

lake, that \\.

round an i^

1, and aent Df

suit was, tlia!

le. The nios

qiiitoshero tormented us dreadfully; and the steersman, lor whom
tlie> had a particular alTectiou, was so swollen that he could scarce-
ly see.

At daybreak of the following day (the 22d of August i, we went
to an adjoining bay, whence the canoe and baggage were carried
to two small lakes. Another portage took us to an extensive sheet
of water, which, however, proved to be only a branch of the lake
we had left. In this, as in the other part, were many islands, com-
posed of low rocks with shelving sides, covered more or less with
reiudeer-moss and large stones. Streaks of old ice were still ad-
hering to the shore; and on some of the hills, already of a brown
lint, were patches of last year's snow. A few luuirs brought us to
the end of the lake ^^ which has been called after the Hev. Dr.
Walmsley of llanwell ;; and scouts were despatched in difl'erent
quarters to lind out the most favorable route to the large lake of
which we were in search.

A set of observations gave the latitude O.'i" 23' !(»' N., longitude
lOS'S' Ml' VV., and variation 3(1° 0 E.— a position a little to the
north of the Cheesadawd Lake of Mearne; though, from the con-
current testimony of the Indians, it would seem that the only one
bearing the name is situated between the Athabasca and (ireat Slave
Lakes.

Towards evening the men returned; and about the same time,
one of the Indian lads, w ho for some trilling cause had separated
from his companion, and was now willing to join us again. The
former had succeeded in finding a chain of small lakes, inclining to
the eastward, and had the good foitune to shoot a young deei • the
latter was unceremoniously dismissed with directions to inform his
tribe, that those who were desirous of profiting by the expedilio'i
must pursue a steady and honest course of conduct, and, accor Jing
to their own phraseology, abstai n from " speaking with two tongues ;"
for by that means alone could they entitle themselves to any
beneht. He was refused even a particle of provision, — a rigour
which I felt assiu'cd would be made known, and produce a whole-
some effect upon the whole tribe; for, though fickle and ungrateful,
they are yet right-minded enough to know, and candid enough to
acknowledge, their errors. In the present instance, the lad smiled
as he went away, and observed, that, " it was just, for he did not
deserve belter treatment."

August 23. — The operation of carrying began with the first dav/n

!ii)

1 10

THE inti<;iii'|{i-:ter attempts to desert.

ot day; ami, tlioiigli tormented bv the inoscjuitos from tiio time tli.i;
the sun began to have any power, and <lrcnched with hail and rain
as soon as it declined, yet we manaj^ed to get over iifteeu portagei
beiore night compelled us to encamp.

August 21. — The thermometer lei' to 32°, and u cold sheet ol
vapour rose from innumerable watercourses, which dispersing a*
the sun appeared above the gray cloud that walled tbe horizon in
the east, allowed us to resume our tedious occupation. A succes-
sion of laker" and portages took us to a suiall stream, which I wa<
glad to observe ran easterly; and at its termination, in an open spacp
of water, I saw some sand hill.s about north-west, which led me lo
conclude that we could not be far oil the height of land. Tlie bail
of the canoe, however, had been split by the frost, and a sliort delaj
was necessary to repair it. This completed, we began to make ;i
traverse to gain some liiils, whose eastern sides, as .^laufelly as-
serted, were washed by thclaige lake; but a ([uestion now arose, as to
the probability of a passage along the base of the sand liilii? to llic
westward; since, according to my sight, a wide opening seemed tu
stretch from thence far to the right, which, I cannot help still think
ing, was connected with the other large sheet of watjr. Be this a>
it may, the Indian put his veto on the proposition ; and accordingly
the blue hills were reached, a long portage njade, and I had the sa-
tisfaction at last of looking on a wide clear expanse ol v ater to tin
southward, bounded only by the horizon. — The lati'ude \ as 03° 'i'^
57" N.

We now crossed to a jutting bluff point, apparently a conlinuptioii
of the opposite shore, but which was stated to be the northern sweep
of a bay, the receptacle of a rap-d river, which 3Iaufelly said wo
must ascend. It lay precisely in a straight line with a very distaii'
column of smoke, to w hich our Indian wished to go, under the plan
sible pretence of procuring information ; declaring, at the same time
his entire ignorance of any water communication beyond the one \\<
were in. This conduct I thought it right to resent, and with a sea
sonable severity of manner gave him to understand that aitifice ami
duplicity were not likely to succeed with me at any time, much les>
at the present moment, when, from his own admission, he had been
at another lake, and stood convicted therefore of falsehood. I told
him, that what he really wanted was to desert; that if so, his lanil«
were before him ; but that by so <loing he would forfeit all claim ic
whatever henelits I might otherwise have conferred upon him. The

RT.

ni Uio time thai
h hail and rain
lifteen pottage^

a cold sheet ol
li dispersing a«
1 the hori/on in
ion. A siicces-
m, which I wa<
a an open spaco
\vhii;h led me to
land. The bail
nd a short delaj
?i(an to make a
as iMaidelly as-
I now arose, as f(
sand ]iills to \.\w
oning seemed lu
t help slill thini
'Siliv. I5e this as
. and accordingly
xnd \ had the sa-
e o! V aler to tlu
i»nde\ as G3** 2'^

liy aconlinuptioii
northern ssveof
ilaulelly said \vf
lilh a very distair
|, under the plan
I at the same time
fyond the one wi
and with a sea
Ithat artifice aiK
time, much lev
lion, he had been
Isehood. 1 tolii
jt if so, his land^
jrleit all claim i'
I upon him. Tlu'

"' OlIASE OF A !>rj\'DRi;K HY A WOLF. 07

olVect was instantaneous; he co.ifrssed that he had done wrong, and
promised lidclity lor the future, begging that I would not be dis-
pleased, if, from want of memory on iiis part, we sometimes missed
our way; for that it was a long time since he was a boy, and from
that early period he had never been beyond the land be'"ore us. The
banks of the stream consisted mostly of sand, heaped he:e and there
into mounds, the comfortable retreat of many siflleu, or ground
squirrels, some of whose company were basking in the sun, or
sitting up in curious gaze at each other : on seeing us, they disap-
peared.

Tour rapids, having an aggregate fall of from sixteen to twenty
feet, were the only obstacl*-^ to the navigation of the river, and by
five o'clock we had got wi* them all, and opened on a magnificent
lake. Close by, a reindeer appeared, running at full speed, chased
by a long white wolf, which, though it seemed to have little chance
in swiftness, was nevertheless resolute in the pursuit. The deer
gradually made for a pass lielow the rapid, at the other side of which
another wolf was now first perceived, crouching down, with his eyes
fixed on the chase, and evidently ready to spriuj!, upon the poor ani-
mal, if it unhappily took the water.

I have a strong antipathy to wolves, however speriouslv attired;
and thoug! these fair-iobed gentlemen were bn( following <i natural
instinct of appetite, I thought fit to interfere with voice and gesture.
The panting deer bounded past me, as if conscious of safety and pro-
tection, wh'U; the wolf stood motionless ibr a moment, and then,
sceiliog an enemy, slunk slowly away, under the shelter of some
fragments of rocks.

The country near the margin, and, iiideed, for several miles from
the lake, was very low and level, being only occasionally elevated
into moderatelv-sized hills. IJv one of these, to the eastward, lav
the route to the The-lew.' As we were certain to return by this
place, I took advantage of a detached heap of stones, in the shape
of an island, to n:Tke a rar/n' of a bag of penunican; soon after
which we encamped, wheie there was some good moss for cooking
— a consideration of no trilling importance on the barren lands.

The white partridges kept up a burrmg call until near nndnight ;
and when this had ceased, my rest was repeatedly interrupted by the
Startling and fiendish screams of a score of the largest sized loons;

Sonit'linu's rallcil Tch-ldii.

m^

i\ im

li, ,t iliil

m

11 \y

ftS

l\D[.\N ACCOUNT OF

<

SO thai I was not sorry when the morning of the 2r»th of August a!
forded light enough for escaping from their harsh and grating notes
As we proceeded, the land on each side swelled insensibly into.t
different characL":r, attaining an elevation of one hundred and se-
venty or one hundred and ninety feet, with rounded summits, par-
tially covered with rich lichens, and strewed with huge boulders,
closely resembling those round Point Lake. The valleys afforded
a luxurious pasturage, and were tenanted by a few scattered deer.
A weal: current was found to oppose us; and having passed
through a narrow, which produced a ripple having something of tlit
character of a rapid, we managed to get embayed. Maufelly \va^
fairly lost; and after trying ineffectually half a dozen openings, I re-
turned to the current, which became impercej)tibie as the land fell
off; but, taking the general direction of the last river and this streaii
as a guide, 1 directed the course to a distant northerly hill, whicli,
luckily enough, happened to be the western point of another narrow,
well known to the Yellow Knives as a favourite deer-pass, and
which was, in fact, the only passage for the water. A " band" o;
deer was swimming across at the moment. The face of the countn
was extremely barren and forbidding. When afterwards we en-
camped, not a shrub could be found; and the moss being wet, it n
quired some ingenuity to make a lire : ultimately, however, it wa>
efl'ected, by building two parallel walls, within which the moss \va-
placed, and fanned into llame by the draft rushing ',?tween. Tiii-
simple notion was the means of saving us much trouble afterwar(l<
The pass led u . to an immense lake, from which land could be faint!
distinguished (o the north, while east and west it was indented will
deep inlets and bays. One of these, to the right, presenting a clea;
horizon, led, as Maufelly believed, to the The-lew.

Subsequently, several Indians, who had been there, informed nii
that, by making a portage from the eastern extremity of a deep bav
they got to a small lake, and from thence by another portage to
larger one ; thit this discharged itself by a river into the north-ea>
end of a very long but narrow lake, the southern termination i
which was about half way between that point rnd Slave liake. T
the east, they said it was connected, by a short line of rapids, will
a HVe of singular shape, which, by meant; of a rive," seventeen milt
long, communicated with (he The-lew, at a mean distance froii

Aiiv Miiiiibpr iibovt' six.

i '

Till; TllE-LEVV, OK TEII-LON.

ftv

•til ol August a!
nd grating notes
insensibly into ii
uindred and se-
d summits, par-
i huge boulders,
valleys afforded
scattered deer.
\ having passed
something of tile
. Man lei ly was
n openings, I re-
c as the land fell
r and thisstreaii
crly hill, whicli,
another narrow
; deer-pass, and
. yV " band" 0
ce of the counlri
tervvards we en-
being wet, it r-
however, it wv
ich tae moss \va>
'>?tween. Tlii>
)uble afterwa^tl^
could be faint!
as indented witi
resenting a clea

re, informed ni
ty of a deep ba\
iher portage to
o the north-ca-
termination o
Slave Lake. T
3 of rapids, win
seventeen mile
n distance fioii

our position of about eighty miles. As to the course of the prin-
cipal river itself, little seemed to be accurately known ; for the
Indians never penetrated far, perhaps not more than twenty miles,
beyond the part which has been just described. There it was said
to maintain a uniform direction towards the north-east.

Proceeding by the western shore of the lake which we had
entered, we cut across Irom point to point, coasting by islands so
extensive, that we not unfre(iuently mistook thein for the main.
The water was of a dark indigo colour, but very clear; and the
occasional and almost noiseless rising of a iish at a water-ily was
tlie only sound which broke the stillness and serenity around.
Whether it were owing to continued calms, or to the limited time
during which this lake is liberated frojn its icy letters, I am not
prepared to say ; but certain it i», that 1 no where observed those
successive banks, or layers of sand, along the beach, so common
in the lakes to the southward, — the joint etfect of liie action of the
waves and of the rise and fall of the water. INeither were there
any of those horizontal lines on the base of the rocks, which force
tliemsclves on the notice of the traveller in other parts of this
country, and which indicate, with the nicest precision, the Huctua
tions of the level at different seasons. Heing somewhat bewildered
among the numerous bays and islands, our Indian, from time to
time, ascended the elevated ground, with a view of guessing at the
besl route; and on this occasion he considered that, to avoid mak-
ing detours, equally unprofitable and vexatious, wc ought (o keep
more to the northward. He began now also to remark that many
winters had glided away since he had visited the Thlew-ee-choh, as
a boy, with his old father; but that he remembered his saying that
there were numerous sand-hills in its vicinity; and he felt some con-
fidence now, that we should, sooner or later, lind it. What most
comforted him, however, was a newb entertained idea that wc
should not (as lie had hitherto dreaded; be caught by the setting in
of winter, bel'orc the object was accomplished.

For a consid-M-able lime past, a dazzling whiteness, which did
not seem like the ordinary ellect of the sunlight, had been visible
on the Yv'Cs.'.MMi hori/on ; and, as we neared it, I had the mortifi-
cation to bohold a wcil-delined stream of ice, decayed, indeed, but
compact enough to have brought up the largest ship in his Majesty's
navy. There needed no stronger proof to convince ine of the
lardy disruption of this wintry barrier, and, by consequence, of the

• t! I

'' M

i

70

THK SAND-HILL

U

{ i

,'':if';

iaint chance that existed ol my being able to prosecute the journey
by open water during the early part of summer. The intimation,
however, was not without its use ; it prepared me to expect other
obstacles, and occasioned the methodising of various plans, b\
which the execution oi' that part of the service was at last success-
fully completed.

Having pa(UI!t;d along the edge of the stream of ice, we made
for a remarkable moLnlainous bluff to the north-east, between
which and some other high land was a passage leading north. Bin
the sun had set; and, alter a hard day's work, my weary crew
were happy to encamp, notwithstanding the vigorous and uninter-
mitting assaults of oui' faithful tormentors, the sand-Hies and
mosquitos. Certainly they were pests, and sharply did they convej,
to us the moral lesson of man's helplessness ; since, with all oiii
boasted strength and skill, we were unable to repel these feeble
atoms of the creation.

August 2(Jth, — The temperature had fallen to 31°, and coated
the lake, for a lew hundred yards from the shore, with a thin sheei
of ice ; while the calm surface of the open water was literally black
with dead ilies. Slight as the impediment was, it required the
utmost caution on the part of the bowman to open a lane, by
breaking the ice on each side, so as to allow the canoe to pass w ith
out touching ; for the bark being rendered brittle by the overnight'^
frost, the least concussion would have produced Sc ious con-
sequences— to prevent which, pieces of leather, etc., were placed
over the sides as fenders. The mountainous appearance of the
country to the northward by no means answered to the character
of the part of which we were in search, and greatly diminished tlit
hopes that 3Iav.felly had nourished of finding a portage to llir
Thlew-ce-choh in that direction. We therefore veered to the
westward; and alter paddling from lifleen to twenty miles, withoiii
tiescrying the faintest symptom of a sand-hill, we ascended a lollv
hill, and, alter considerable embarrassment, during which 1 "ni-
careful to encourage him, the Indian pointed to the south-ea^i
Arriving at another point, he again directed us wesr., through a
kind of strait, where there was an island, consisting of Or. conic:i
mount, about two hundred iect high. Some sand was visible
round and near its apex, and it was distinguished, as I afterward?
learnt, by the name of the Sand-Hill.

From its summit wc wcie .surprised to behold another immense

I'ROCREss or oru journey.

71

jte tlie jouinev
riic intimation,
to expect other
•ions plans, b)
at last success-

f ice, we made
I -east, between
ing north. Hm
riy weary crew
IS and uninter-
sand-Uies and
did they eonvej,
X', with all oiii
pel these leeblc

Jl% and coated

-ilh a thin siieci

IS literally black

it required the

pen a lane, by

)e to pass with

the overnightV

Sc ions con-

c, were placed

learance of the

the character

diminiiihed the

Dortage to the

eered to tlic

miles, withoiii

jcended a lolU

which 1 -'r;^

le sonth-ca^i

•i>i., throuith li

of 0... conical

I \^"as visible

I afterward,-

Jake, extending with a clear horizon to the south-west, and abounding
in large islands, and in bays from ten to fifteen miles deep. How
far it might be across, could not be conjectured, the apparent
boundary on the other side being but dimly marked by narrow dark
lines, which the Indian assured ine were only islands. Resuming
our journey, we passed through the upper end of the strait, in which
the current set to the southward; and, having gone half round the
compass, and passed an extensive opening to the right, we directed
on:' course to the westward.

The wavering uncertainty o( Mauhiilji^ induced me to abstain
from any remarks on the time lost in rounding bays to look for some
near cut, which he had never seen, but which he persisted in
thinking must exist. Any opposition, 1 well knew, would only pro-
duce a sulky obstinacy, and put an end to all effective co-operation.
1 therefore left him to follow his ow n plans, confiding in that instinct
which will guide an Indian through the mazes of the darkest and
most tangled forest. The view to the southward and westward
might well be called that of an inland sea; for, with the exception
of a dark spot here and there, the range was bounded by an horizon
of sky and water, now gilded with the brilliant rays of a setting
sun.

Holding more to the north, we threaded some bleak and pic-
turesque islands, apparently of gneiss ; for all were round and
naked rocks, with little or no vegetation, and rose abruptly from the
water's edge to a height varying from eighty to a hundred and
twenty feet. \ear the spot where we encamped was one consi-
derably higher, with huge boulders on its obtuse and irregular
outline, which bore an exact resemblance to the scenery about Fort
Enterprise.

The shelving and moss-covered mainland, with isolated rocks in
situ, formed a pleasing contrast to the bold fronting of the neigh-
bouring islands. The beach where the tent was pitched was of a
shingly gravel, composed of Uiinule and rounded fragments of mica
slate, (juartz with scales of glittering mica, and red and gra . fel-
spar. A few geese, one gull, and many loons were seen; and
mos(|uitos, like the fourth plague, swarmed innumerable, and
banished comCoit. Hhen the cool air of night had benumbed
■ them, and alforded me a respite for contemplation, I could not help

U

11

m

nil

'"■►it

w
m

■fH

ther immense

Swainis ol (lies, — Exodus.

.^

';l .

■' ^ I

i

i \

72

LAKI WLMEU.

feeling deeply impressed with the intense stillness of the scene : no
Jiving thing was seen or heard ; the air was calm, tho lake un
ruffled : it seemed as if nature had fallen into a trance, for all \va>
silent and motionless as death.

Our little canoe was afloat at four a. m. of the 27th of August
and the men, excited by the keen air of the morning to vigoioii.«
action, impelled her through the calm water with unusual swiftness
Several deep bays were traversed and points rounded, until at las
we had the satisfaction of seeing some sand-hills, which, as wi
drew near, Maufelly tilought he recognised. Twice he went k
adjacent heights to disco /er some object, which might remove hi;
doubts; and (he second time he returned with a light step, and,
countenance betokening satisfaction and triumph. W ith renewec
confidence he pointed to a bay from whence we might go to tlu
Thlew-ee-choh, and, on our landing, turned to the interpreter, aiiii
showing him the well-beateu tracks of the deer, exclaimed, witlu
smile, that his old father loved to dwell on the feats he had pei
formed there; " and though," added he, " I was but a child wliei
1 accompanied him, these places look familiar to me."

The two large lakes by which we had come were only separatee
by the strait of the Sand-Hill ; and, considering the first as extendin.
from that strait, not to the river, but merely to the first narrow i
the south, it will embrace a direct distance of twenty-nine miles
and an estimated breadth, cast and west, of nearly thirty. This I
have named Clinton-Colden Lake, as a mark of respect to the nn-
raory of those distinguished individuals.

The second, or northern one, is, according to the concurreii
testimony of the Indians, about sixty miles in extent towards [h>
north-west, with a breadth not exceeding thirty, nor less thai
twenty miles. The eastern shores are broken into bays, deep ani
indefinable; the rest x.aa bounded by the horizon. This splendic
sheet of water received the appellation of Lake Aylmer, in honom
of the Governor-General of Canada, to whose kindness and con
sideration I felt myself particularly indebted.

While employed in putting the canoe in a suitable place, betwoci
two small hillocks, to dry, a deer was seen coming at full sppci^^
towards us. The Indian and De Charloit started at the sarin
moment to cut it off. The trial was well contested ; but the lattci
was more active than his opponent ; and, concealing himself beliiii'
a stone, watched his opportunity, and killed it at (hr first shui

SAND-HILLS.

7S

f the scene : no
m, the lake un
mce, for all \va>

27th of Augibi
ning to vigoroib
nusual swiltness
(led, until at lay
5, which, as wi
'wice he went ii
light remove hi
light step, and .

With lenewec
might go to tin
interpreter, aiiti
Jiclaimed, witho
»a(s he had per
)ut a child wliei
e."

•e only separate

first as extendin.

e first narrow u

nty-ninc miles

thirty. This I
spect to the mo

the concnrreii

ent towards tlit

nor less thai

» bays, deep anc

This splendid

mer, in honom

dness and con

place, hetweei
Ig at full spec'
fd at the sunn
but the lattci
I himself behiiii
(he fir.';;! shn'

After making a hasty repast, I sent the three men with i^laulelly to
look for the river, or the lake whence it was supposed to take its
rise. They were provisioned for three days; and, in the event of
any doubt arising on the part of the Indian, the bow and steersmen
were to proceed in a due northern, and the Indian and inlerpretei
in a north-western, direction, which, I concluded, would take them
within sight of their object.

The observations utade here gave the latitude (5 1° 21 1 3" N. ;
longitude, 108°28'53"W.; variation, 3G":iO'E. Asthesun declined,
some dark clouds lose from the westward, and spread rapidly over
the sky, threatening to break up the long calm which we had en-
joyed across the two lakes, lielore I could reach the tent, indeed,
the storm burst with such violence, as almost to carry it away; and
but for the support which, on my arrival, 1 lent to the poles, it
would assuredly have gone. The canoe was whirled over and over,
and was at last arrested by a rock. Malley's cooking apparatus was
thrown right and left ; while my sextant and instruments, scattered
about the tent, reminded me most forcibly of poor Heaine's mis-
fortune on a similar occasion. Happily, I saved them by ihrowing
nay cloak over them, and then again propped up the tent, until the
squall was over.

August 28th. — I went along a range of sand-hills with my glass,
but could see nothing of the men. The country was formed of
gently undulating hills, whose surfaces were covered with large
fragmcuis of rocks, and a coarse gravelly soil, which afforded
nutriment io some miserable dwarf birch. The tea plant, crow,
and cranberry shrubs also grew there, but were entirely unpro-
ductive. In the swamps, occupying every valley, the plant of the
whortleberry was occasionally found, but, as in the former case,
without fruit.

A chain of sand-hills, embracing two thirds of a small lake with
a pretty rocky island in its centre, stretched from the eastward, and,
gradually rising to different heights, suddenly terminated in abrupt
cliffs; whence renewing the line again at the base, it extended to
within a couple of miles of our encampment. Thence, separated
only by a narrow stream which flowed from the lake, the land
ascended by a shelving hill to a continuation of the chain; a tongue
of while sand spotted with Arbutus (sac ?lcommis;), which jutted

* Tor (li|), sec Appciulix.
'. So 1 ,Ul(cl l>v thr tiMilcrs.

Hi

W

1

11

#

74

Discoviiitv or

f i

IWifi

ill

%k

out to the southward, completetl, with the hill on which we li,,
taken onr position, tlie girdle of a bay, the waters ol' which enipiif
themselves by a narrow channel to the north-west. To the noii
as well as west, were other hills, detached from the chain, ol
rocky mossy character about the declivities, but ending in roundf
cones of sand, from one hundred and lil'ty to live or six huncli>
feet high. 31any ravines and dry watercourses intersected il
liills; and in one I saw a musk ox, which contrived to get awa
from me. The deer must have been, at some time, exceediii;;
numerous; for the face of the ground for several miles was heal-
down by them.

August 21Hh. — Hecoming anxious al)0ut the men, 1 took my gu;
and, following a N.N. \V, direction, went out to look for thei
Having passed a small sheet of water, between the rivulet, or clia;
nel, previously mentioned, and Lake Aylmer, 1 ascended a hill, Im
the top of which I discerned, to my great delij'iht, a rapid, evideni
connected with the stream which llo^ed through the narrow cliai
nel from the lake. With a quickened step I proceeded to tract'
course, and in doing so, was further gratified at being obliged
wade through the sedgy waters of springs. Crossing two riviile;
whose lively ripples ran due north into the rapid, the thought occi
red to me, that these feeders might be tributaries to the Thle\v-i
choh ; and, yielding to that pleasing emotion, which discovereij.
the iirst bound of their transport, may be pardoned for indulgin:
threw myself down on the bank, and drank a hearty draught ol i
limpid water. From a height a mile forward, the line ofstrw
could be distinctly traced into an open space, which, as it contractt
inclined to the north; and this, with the appearance of two plovei
exactly resembling the noisy plover (Clmrudrhis vnc'ijorns) abo
Fort Enterprise, convinced me that I stood on part of the continuu
height of laud which extends hither from the borders of the Coppt
mine River. The men not making their appearance, 1 raiseii
dense smoke, by firing the moss, to apprise them of my situaliu
and returned to the tent, passing, on my way, a white wolf, \v!i
was sneaking towards a deer. A smoke seen to rise from bcln:
the sand-hills announced, shortly afterwards, (he approach oil
men; and at a late hour, the Indian first, and afterwards the otliii
came in. l)c diarlolt groaned under the weiglit of a musk-o\
head and horns, while his companions were more usefully lad'
wilh the sjioils of some good fat deer.

bei
lak

tha

ace

no,

H.g

gro

it v\

the

doi:

THE JHLIiW-El'i-CHOIl.

1h

on vvliicli we li,,
I of which cniptif
St. To the iioih
m the cliain, ol
ending in roundf
ve or six hundiv
es intersecletl t!
Lrived to gel i»\v;
time, exceediiii;
I iniles was heait

en, 1 took mv m
to look for thei
e rivulet, or clia;
ccnded a hill, liu
, a rapid, evidoiii
the narrow cliai
jceeded to trace
at being obligetl
>ssing two riviik;
the thought occi
s to the Thlew-i
lich discoverers,
ed for indulgin.'
irly draught ol i
the line of stria
h, as it contracts
nee of two plovei
< vocifcrn.s) abt'
t of the continiiu
ers of the Coj)|ii
arance, I raiscc
n of my silualii
wiiile wolf, will
0 rise from bclii:
le approach ot i
wards the otliei^
it of a iuusk-o\
e usefully lail'

They had fallen on the river the second day, and described it as
bfing large enough for boats. Heturningalong its banks by a wide
lake, and two tributary streams as large as itself, they ascertained
that it was really the same stream, the source of which I had thus
accidentally discovered in the Sand-hill Lake close to us; which was
no tv distinguished by the name of Sussex Lake, aftei' His Koyal
Highness the \ ice-Patron of the expedition, I had reserved a little
grog lor this occasion, and need hardly say with what cheerlulness
it was shared among the crew, whose welcome tidings had verilied
the notion of Di-. Kichar'dson and myself, and thus placed beyond
doubt the existence of thcThlew-ee-choh.

(•HAPTKH V.

Digression conccmiiii; llearnc's Hoiitc.

Thk route of the celebrated Hearne intersected the country which
has been described ; and there is no person interested in geogra-
phical research who will not thank me for interrupting for a mo-
ment the couise of my narrative, in order to introduce the follow-
ing observations on that traveller's geographical discoveries, for
which { am indebted to Dr. Ilichardson.

" The adventurous journey of Hearne excited very great public
interest at the time it was made, and will always form an epoch in
the annals of northern discovery; for it gave the first authentic in-
formation of a sea bounding America to the northward, and also
overthrew the numerous vague reports that existed of straits con-
necting the Atlantic and Pacific in parallels south of that to which
he attained. Indeed, the high latitude assigned to the mouth of ihe
Coppermine River was so adverse to the opinions previously cnter-
Uined by the advocates for the prosecution of a north-west passage,
that Dalrymplc was iiiduced closely to examine the courses and
di«tances recorded in llearne's Journal, whereby he discovered so
great a discrepancy between the outward and homeward journeys
as, paused him to reject the higher latitudes aKogcther, oi' greatly to

.4 :|

m
p

I

70

DlliUliSSlON CONCEHMNti

'\

1 \

reduce them ; and, in doing so, he was undoubtedly right, iIioh,
llearne complains bitterly in his preface ol" the injustice done
him. The Tact is, that, when we consider the hardships wli
llearne had to endure, the dinicult circumstances in which hew
frequently placed, the uttw insudiciency of his old and cuuihn
Elton's quadrant as an instrument for ascertaining the latitud*;, |
licularly in the wintei-, with a low meridian sun, and a refraction
the atmosphere gieatly beyond what it was supposed to be by
best observers of the peiiod, and the want of any means of eslim
ing the longitude, except by dead reckoning; this reckoning leqii
ing an exact appreciation of distances, as well as correct coiir>
circumstances evidently unattainable by one accompanying an hid
horde in a devious march through a wooded and mountain
country ; we shall not be inclined to view with severity the en
committed, but rather to think that the traveller's credit would li
been strengthened and not impaired by his acknowledging the
certainty of the position of the places most distant from Chuid
Unfortunately, however, Hcarne himself thought dill'erently ; ^
in his published narrative, which did not appear until twenty yt
after the completion of his journey, he attempts to establish the c
rectness of his latitudes by various unfounded assertions ; one of wi
it will be suflicient to notice here. He states that on the 21s;
July, 'though the sun's declination was then but 21°, yet it wasi
tainly sonic heitjht (ihurc the horizon at midiiKjht, at the inu
of the Coppermine River.' Now it so happens, that Sir John Fia:
lin encamped at that very place on the 19th of the same mot
when the sun set at ' thirty minutes after eleven apparent tin
Dalrymple had also remarked, that llearne subsequent to hisct
brated journey committed a great error in estimating the distant
Cumberland House, and therefore questioned his general coiit
ness; and this conclusion is parried only by Hearne's giving up
longitudes as not being corrected by observation, but continuin.
support the truth of his latitudes. We shall, however, show,
his error in these was still greater than in his longitudes; his ol).«
vations, if any were actually made, having miserably deceived li
Hut we should greatly mistake, if the detection of various iiisitaii
of disingenuousness led us to consider him as entirely unwortli;
credit, and to deny the reality of his journey. We had an opj
tunity, on Sir John Franklin's lirst expedition, of conversing \^
iicveral old men who had belonged to the party of Copper Indu

m-

1

IIRAIINES KOLTE.

77

itedly lifjlil, l\im.

i injustice done

e hardships wii

es in which ho w

t ohl and ciiinhn

ng the latitudt!, |

and a lelVactioii

J) posed to be by

ly means of eslim

is reckoning rct|ii

as correct coiiry

inpanying an liid

i and mountain

severity tlie en

's credit wouhl li

novvledging the

ant Irom Chuni

^ht dill'erently ; .

r until twenty ye

to establish thct

rtions; oneolwl,

that on the 'ihi

2 1 ", yet it was i

if/lif, at the mo

Kit Sir John Fia;

' tiie same mot

'11 (tinnireiit tin

sequent to his ct

iting the distaiio

lis general coiit

irne's giving up

1, but continuiii-

ovvever, show,

igitudes; his ob-

•ably deceived li

)r various instai:

itirely unworlli;

We had an opi

o(" conversing «

ol' Copper liuliJ

'ihflt mot llearno at Congecathewachaga. The leading (acts of his
journey aie still current subjects of tradition among that tribe, as
well as wilh the Northern Indians ; and from all that we have been
able to collect in the fur countries, as well as from an attentive ex-
amination of his narrative, we are led to conclude that he visited
the various places maikcd in his map, in the oider in which they
stand ; that all the rivers and lakes which he names actually exist ;
and that he has correctly described the general physical features of
the country he Iraveised. His description of the lower part of the
Coppermine IJiver, in particular, is evidently that of one who had
been on the spot. Hearne's original journal was very meagre 'ait,
in common with all the residents in the fur countries, he seems to
have had an excellent memory, and to have trusted much to it.
By its aid, accordingly, and with the co-operation of Dr.Douglass,
who edited his work, he has given an exceedingly interesting ac-
count of his travels and sufferings, together with very correct and
important details of the habits of the various animals he was ac-
quainted with. His printed work does not, however, quote his
courses and distances so fully as his original journal (a copy of which
we saw at Hudson's Hay ) ; the animadversions of Dalrymple having
apparently caused him to leave several important gaps in the enu-
meration of his daily journies both outward and homeward.

"It is a matter of some consequence in the geographical deli-
neation of the country, to obtain the true route followed by Hearne;
and notwithstanding the difliculties in the way of doing so, origi-
nating in the above-mentioned causes. Sir John Franklin's first
journey supplies us with data for the correction of part of his course,
and (Japtain Hack's researches enable us to bring another portion
nearer to the truth. From the former we obtain the correct posi-
tion of the mouth of the Coppermine River, of Congccathewa-
chaga, of Point Lake, and of the mouth of Slave River, by which
we can readily ascertain all the western part of Hearne's route, the
principal errors of which are shown by the following table :

C'oppermiue River.
Lat. Long.

Uearm TI" 55' 120" 30'

l"i.iiik]'ii 07° 48' 115° 37'

I'onfiecathetvachnrja .

Lat. liong.

68" 46 118' 15'

66° 11' 111' 26'

4° Ol

:fi

4» 53'

•2° 32'

6° 49'

^

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

k

A

1.0

I.I

1.25

«* 1^ |2.2

^.» ||20

1.4

6"

1.6

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

V

iV

4

'^

<>

r* .«E3' MAirJ STREET

WEBSTfeK, i^.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

<^\ ^\

^^•^^

'^^

'4^

*%

«i

)

K

\

^

6^

DIGIIFSSFON CONCERMN(i

I'oiiit Lnhi'.
\A\i. Lont;.

Ilcanie (i5 • 45' 119" 00'

rraiiklin 05" 00' 11-2° 10'

0" 45'

0» 44'

SIdvr Id 1 1 r.

Liil. Loiij;.

liO" IS' |-i3° 55

01" ao' US" 'IV

0» 42' 10" 31'

" It will be at once perceived, that while Hearne's latitude is k
great at his most morthcrn point, by upwards of four degrees, it
too little by three quarters of a degree at Slave Uiver; and there
also a groat error in the course, for the mouth of the Slave Uivci
actually two degrees to the eastward of that of the Coppermin-
and not to the westward, as laid down in Hearne's map. This a;
pears to have originated principally in his aot having attended
the variation of the magnetic needle; though at the date of i,
journey it must have exceeded two points easterly on the Coppe
mine; and to give the correct course and distance between the lati^
place and Congecathewachaga, that amount of variation is reqnin
to be applied to Hearne's courses, while his distances are diminislie
to one half. A large reduction of the length of his marches, thou.
not always quite to this extent, must be made during his wlio
journey. When travelling with the Indians, their wives an
children, during the winter, and when it was necessary to hunt I
subsistence, he averages the daily distances made good at ten, ar,
even fourteen, or twenty miles. Now in our journies with the In
dians under similar circumstances, we found that they seldom move
the camp above six miles in one day, more frequently travellini
only four, and scarcely ever exceeding eight, excluding the windinp
of the route. The power of estimating the distance walked ovf
can be acquired only by practice, in conjunction with the daily cor
rection of errors by celestial observations, — allowance being, (
course, made for the easy or diflicult nature of the country; bi;
Hearne, as we have seen, was deprived of every means of cor
rection; and having once started with an inaccurate notion of tb
length of a mile, he carried the error vvith him to the end of lit
journey. In correcting his map, therefore, it is necessary to diim
nish the size of the lakes in an equal, if not in a greater degree thai:
the distances. (Ipon these prin'^iples we have ventured to fixthf
following points of Hearne's route, taking, for convenience, ln'
homeward one.

" Hfc appears to have iullen on the ('oppernune Kiver first at tin

%i

IIEARNKS UOl TE

SIdvr hi 1 1 r.
LhI. liOii^.

1° IH' l-2'.J" ?•:>

" HO' na- -21'

i» 42' lO" 31'

irne's latitude is u
tf four degrees, ii
Uiver; and there
if the Slave Uiver
:>{ the Coppermirir
ne's map. This,i|

having attended!

at the date of 1
rly on the Coppr
e between the lalir
variation is requiif
nccs are diminialie
lis marches, thou,'
3 during his who!
, their wives an
icessary to hunt ('
Je good at ten, an
urnies with the In

they seldom move
'equently travellini

uding the winding
Itance walked eve

with the daily cor

lowance being, o

f the country; bu
ry means of cor

irate notion of tlif
to the end of li^

necessary to dimi

reater degree that

entured to fix tlif

convenience, lii'

Kiver first at llif

Sandstone rapids of Franklin, and to have traced it too Bloody Fall;
|ul as contrary to his usual practice, he underrates the distance from
iicncc to the coast, wc are led to conclude that he did not actually
go down to the sea, hut was content to view it from the top of the
iill which overhangs the falls r and, indeed, it is not very probable
lat he could have induced the Indians, over whom he had little in-
luence, to accompany him on his survey, after they had completed
le massacre which was the object of their long and laborious
)urney; nor, had he gone actui;lly to the mouth of the river, vvoidd
have mentioned marks of a tide fourteen feet high.
" Huffalo or Musk-ox Lake, wkich he passed in going and re-
irning, ought to be known by the latter name exclusively, as it is
)t frequented by the buffalo or bison, (-ogead Lake is the Cont-
Iroy-to, or Hum Lake of Franklin; and its waters, agreeably to In-
^an information obtained by Captain Back, How by Congecathe-
jracliaga into the Thlew-ee-choh ; in which case, the Anatessy, or
iree Biver, as it is named by Franklin, is from its size to be con-
lered as the main branch of the Thlew-ee-choh. The true distance
[oiii Congecathcwachaga to Point Lake is 78 miles, though by
|earne's map it is 150. At one time we were inclined to doubt the
lenlity of Franklin's Point Lake with the one so named by Ilearne,
It we now consider them to be the same; and, indeed, the small
prubby woods, which Hearne mentions as existing on its banks,
^ere seen by us, this being an advantage possessed, perhaps by no
Ihcr lake so far to the eastwaid, and in so high a latitude. Thaye-
uick-gyed, or large Whitestone Lake, lies a short way to the north-
ward of Poini Lake, and its waters most probably fall into that
rm of Point Lake which Franklin's parly crossed on the 23d of
leptember, 18,21 . IS'o-name Lake is evidently Providence Lake of
|ranklin. Hearne crossed Slave Lake by the usual Indian route,
|irough the Beindeer Islands to Stony Point, and the Bivitire a
Ban, a branch of Slave Biver; but his map is inaccurate here and
)cs not agree with his text. The next place, whose position it is
ry desirable to ascertain, is Thelew-ey-aze-yeth, or Little Fish
|ill; and we may be assisted in doing this by our knowledge of three
ied points, viz. the mouth of Slave Biver, the edge of the woods
the northward, and Churchill Fort. The northern termination
the woods inclines from the east side of Great Bear Lake con-
Iderably to the southward, as it runs to the eastward, passing Fort
Inlerprise in H4;% Artillery Lake in t}3;" and continuing nearly in

"

60

DIGRESSION CONCEFIMNG

\\

the same direction until it approaches Hudson's May. Heart
makes it 63" 45 ip the longitude he assigns to Thele\v-ey-aze-yeil
but we shall not probably be I'ar ("rom the truth, if we consider jia
in 684 ". Now if we reduce the distance of one hundred and fil;
miles at which he places Thelew-ey-aze-yeth south of the barre;
grounds to between eighty and ninety miles, and allow 27° of m
riation on his route, we obtain 61° 55' for the latitude of that placr
which is forty miles north of the position he assigns to it on his map
By a proportionate reduction of the distance between Slave \\\s->
anO Thelew-ey-aze-yeth, and from the latter to Churchill, we (Ixti
required longitude at 106". The position of Thelew-ey-aze-yctb
important as forming the junction of three branches of Hearnt
route; and if we have correctly established it, that traveller m
have passed over or near Artillery Lake in his journey northward
which is probably his Pee-shew, or Cat Lake. The Thlew-ee-clio
which he crossed about midway between that lake and Congee
thewachaga, is evidently not the branch of that river which on
nates in Sussex Lake, but a stream which ilows in from the noiii
ward, most likely into the Anatessy branch.

" The course of Thelew-ey-aze, or Little Fish River, is a matit
of considerable interest, but we can derive no positive informati
respecting its debouchure from Hearne's map. If he calculated \
distances on the same scale in his first journey as he did aftervvarii
which is likely, even though he had the assistance of a better i;
strument on that occasion, the chain of lakes which he lays down
far to the northward as Chesterfield's Inlet, will reach but little ff
yond Knap's Bay, and the nature of the country can be considers
as known only up to that parallel. He indicates a Little Fish Ri\
as existing at no great distance from Hudson's Bay, and says that
is three quarters of a mile wide, which as he estimates di
tances may be about five hundred and seventy yards; but it c;
scarcely be the river of the same name that originates so far to 1
westward. If the latter issues in Chesterfield Inlet, it may herealt
afford a very desirable route to Great Slave Lake. Its origin ix
no great distance from the Lake of the Hills, as the traders tra\
to it from the establishment at the Fond du Lac in four days,
is known to them by the names of Riviere Noire and Thlewndiaza

* As this reduction applies only to one of the branches of Hearne's routf
would be safer for the present to let this place keep the latitude he gives to it. i
til" 15' N.

IIEARNE'S ROUTE,

ftl

iOn's Hay. Heart
Thclevv-ey-aze-yei!
11, if we consider ii a
nc hundred and (it
south of the bane:
and allow 27" of v.
latitude of that plac
igns to it on his map
between Slave Riv.
I Churchill, we (ix ii
rhelew-ev-aze-vctli
aranches of Heaim
t, that traveller rn,
journey northward
TheThlew-ee-cli(
it lake and Conger
at river which oii.
\s in from the non

ish River, is a matit

positive informati

If he calculated I

as he did afterward

ancc of a better ii

lich he lays down

'ill reach but little l>

ry can be consider

es a Little Fish Rivt

Bay, and says that

he estimates d

nty yards ; but it Ci

iginates so far to i!

nlet, it may hereafii

ake. Its origin i»

as the traders tra\

ac in four days.

3 and Thlewndiaza

les of Hearne's route
atitiido he gives to it. '

"hi conclusion we would remark, that the namesgiven by Hearne
thevarious lakes which he saw, are derived sometimes from the
ree language, at other limes from the northern Indian ; and that
||is mode of writing the latter is different from that which we found
lb be best adapted to tbs pronunciation of the Copper Indians. He
ipells the term for lake wlwie^ while it is written to in Captain
Franklins narrati' e ; and the epithet translated 'great' is spelt
thnck, whereas to us it sounded more like cJin or cltoh. There
|re likewise some evident mistakes in the names, and English is
<k;casionally employed in the text, while the map gives only Indian,
4|r vice versa. An instance of error originating in this practice
4fccurs in Hearne's book, which s'lows that the author was not al-
ways at the editor's elbow. In page 102, PeeshewLake is sup-
^sed to be the same with Partridge Lake. Now Peesheiv is the
Crce name for a lynx or cat, and the lake in question is accordingly
Harked on the map as Cat Lake, being, as we suppose, the same
l^ith Captain Back's Artillery Lake. Thoy-noy-kyed Lake, which
Hearne draws correctly enough in his original map, as discharging
its waters into Slave Lake, is the Lakes Aylmer and Clinton-Colden

{Captain Back. Tha-na-koie, as the latter writes it, means "Sand-
II Mount," and is the name given to the narrows between these
^o lakes. Hearne places this spot a degree and a half too far
:i|orth and sevea degrees and a half too far west."

f CHAPTER VI.

^ntinue our Progress. — Rocks on the Thlew-ee-choh. — Island of singular Ap-
■||pcarancc. — Musk-Ox Lake. — Conjectures on the Course of the Thlevv-ee-
j choh. — Icy River. — Appearance of two Indians. — Maufelly permitted to
^ visit his Wife. — Consummate Skill of De Charloit. — Dwarf Pines. —.Story of

" the Rat and the Beaver. — Unfitness of the Trees for Planks. — Artillery Lake.

\ Force of the Rapids. — Accident in our Passage. — Leave the Ah-hel-dessy.

. A Bear killed. — Ridiculous Story. — March resumed. — Desolate Scenery. —
A Deer shot. — Tormented by Sand-flies. — Anecdote of Sir John Franklin. —

' Meeting with Mr. M'Leod, by an unexpected Route.

I

f August 30. — Squalls and heavy rain prevailed most part of the
|ight ; and the morning was so extremely foggy and raw, that

J

82

ROCKS ON IIIE THLEW-EE-CIIOII.

li.

u

c

nothing could be done towards repairing the canoe, which, to n
regret, was found to be much more damaged than I had supposec
Three or four hundred deer came within half shot, but soon disap
peared on discovering their mistake. Almost immediately after
wards a flock of geese flew close past, on their way to the souit
which circumstance Maufelly considered to be an indication ofil;
breaking up of the season.

At noon the weather cleared, the canoe was put in order, an
having made a cacJie of the spare baggage, we oegan to move i
the river. The portage from Lake Aylmer is short of a mile, aa
in that space intervenes the small sLeet of water already referred ti
The actual height of the dividing lands is consequently not mor
than two feet. We pursued exactly my route of the previous da;
and soon came to another lake, at the north-eastern extremity (
which the sand-hills dipped irto the water. A crooked rapid, bp§(
with large stones, impeded us so much, that it was 9 p. m. befur
we encamped. Many deer and grayling were seen. The coui
try became more broken into hills, some of which exposed incoDSi
derable masses of rocks, while the debris thickly strewn over ever
part of the vallies formed the bed of numerous ponds and water ^
courses, now dry. A portion of rock having a more compact font
broke ground near the river, and though not extending more ihn!
thirty yards to the eastward, terminated in cliffs of twelve feet higl
These were the first rocks on the Thlew~ee-choh, and were priii
cipally gneiss.

The thermometer was 33° when we set out at 4 a. m. of the 31:
of August, and followed a small lake until it ended in a rapid ;>
choked by immense boulders, that small as the canoe was, a passac
could not be effected without lifting her between the shelving piece;
though, if a man slipped, there was quite water enough in man
places to carry him under. The rough handling, added to the col
nights, had rendered the canoe so crazy, that the mere action (
paddling now damaged her, and a third of one day was lost in mal
ing her tight.

The stream again widened into what might be called a lake, ac -f f
received the waters of Icy Uiver from the westward, as well as tlios ^r-
of another river from the eastward. The banks of the first were sii ^^
cased ia p» nderous ice far up the valley, and the confluence wi' ^
marked by a sort of curved sur.ace, in the form of a low arch, froii
side to side, under which the water rushed in a yeasty current wiiL

m
tb
fo)
Pi

roi
tsui

001
(01
BtO

eqi
luvi
ing

1

t

1011.

COURSE OF rUR HAI'IDS.

S3

noise.

fhad evidently obtained their present form from long exposure to
ilion. I fancied, at this time, that it might have been produced

nsequently not mot
; of the previous dai
■eastern extremity i
L crooked rapid, best
it was 9 p. M. befut
re seen. The coud
bich exposed inconsi

canoe, which, to n

han 1 had supposec ^ j^yg^ jj^jj j^ singularly white appearance, which was caused,

shot, but soon disap gigp^-ardg fo„nd, by large, round, light- coloured stones, which
,t immediately after j|f,ned its cone-shaped sides. Situated as it was, nearly in the
[• way to the soutt ^^^.q of a wide current, and in deep water, it was not easy to con-
I an indication oltt ^^g ^^ ^j^at jj^ig peculiar structure owed its origin ; for the stones

Utre piled up twenty feet, were not encrusted with lichens, but, on
as put in order, ac ^ contrary, except in three or four spots, were perfectly clean,
ve began to movei
short of a mile, an

r already relerredii gg^j^g combined pressure of the ice and current; but the following

ing showed that the former was level entirely round, and the

er less powerful than might have been expected. I was induced

otice more particularly the formation of this conical island, be-

ni^se the Indians concurred in describing the phenomenon of a

king rock or mountain in a granitic district, nearly destitute of

d.

^or myself, I must say, that I observed no volcanic appearances

cly strewn over ever J^g the whole line of our track, and it is not impossible that the In-

us ponds and watei ^^g ^gre mistaken as to this matter; for having myself had occa-

more compact foii ,j|||j ^^ ^jgjj ^ pi^^g x^\^QfQ one of my crew had fancied he saw a

extending more thai ^j^ column of smoke issuing from a rock near the Ah-hel-dessy, I

of twelve feet bigl Og|n(] that the smoke was nothing more than the spray rising from

hoh, and were piic pf^y's Falls.

•A narrow brought us to Mu.sk-ox Lake, about six miles long, sur-
al 4 A. M, ot the 31 jpjiinded by tolerably steep hills, abounding, as Maufelly said, at cer-
ended in a rapid;; ^ijjq seasons, with those animals; and now having arrived at the
canoe was, a passac o|4iniencement of a series of rapids, which the canoe was too weak
the shelvmg piece« tq(i|un, and too ricketty to be carried over, I had no choice but to
ter enough in mac (||,^ and rest satisfied with what had been achieved; which, if not
g, added to the col ^g^\ to my hopes, was still sufficient to cheer ray companions, and
the mere action i^ ^j^gjjj on to the relief, as we then supposed, of our long-suffer-
day was lost in nd io| countrymen.

^he rapids ran in a meandering course for an estimated distance
be called a lake, aui j^our miles, and then expanded into a wider part, the last bearing

hich was north-east, where it was lost in a transverse range of
ntains. According to the Indians, there was a large river not
olF, that issued from the Cont-woy-lo, or Rum Lake of Hearne,
fell into the Thlew-ee-choh. The distance of the lake was con-
red to be live days' march for a good hunter; and as thev walk

1

a

;ard, as well as i\m
of the first were sill
the confluence w
of a low arch, froa
yeasty current vviit

-"^

1

84

COUIISE OF TIIF: TFILEW-FE-CIIOir.

ni

witli little rest, I think this estimate not unlikely to be correct; thou.-
it is difficult to imagine an outlet at each cKtreme, running in opp
site directions. The Indians, however, were unanimous on this iiea
and would not admit of there being a swampy marsh or narrow tiff
of land dividing the two waters; indeed, they one and all laughed
the idea, and said that I had crossed the western river myself, niea
ing Bcllenger's Rapid, where my friend Franklin had so narrow,
escape. But without dwelling longer on the subject, as to whicl;
had always my doubts, I was now easy as regarded the magnitude
the Thlew-ee-choh, but very far from being so with respect to
course. The river, it was evident, would go on increasing by su
cessive contributions from every valley throughout its descent, a;
would probably become a noble and expansive stream; but, slavisti
subject to the trending and declination of the land, it might pu>.
bly lead to some part unfavourable to our object; and whatever
direction, the appearance of the blue Mountains in the dislau
afforded abundant reason for supposing that we should have no la
of rapids and falls.

The observations gave the latitude 64' 40 51 "N.; longilu:
108«» 08' 10" W. ; variation 44* 24' E. It appeared, therefore, it
we were only 109 miles south of the lower extremity of Bathur*
Inlet; and as the two Indians, who had been any distance downii
Thlew-ee-choh, agreed in stating that it took a turn to the left, at
then went due north, there was a remote chance of its being ide;
tical with Back's River there, though its present N. E. trending w
not favourable to that hypothesis.

The Yellow Knives, who travel across the country in the spr;
to spear the deer as they pass the rapid, were not accustomed to.
beyond two days' march farther, through fear, as they said, of falli:
in with Esquimaux: little reliance, therefore, could be placed
their information respecting a river known to them only by repo;
ISellher they, nor the Chipewyans, evinced the least desire to e
tend their knowledge by offering to accompany us. We embait
towards evening, on our return; and on passing Icy River, \o'
served that it had two channels, occasioned bv an island at its mom!
the ice had undergone no perceptible alteration. Having madei
portages of the upper rapids with some inconvenience, owing tor
fragments of rocks, and innumerable large stones, which slippt
from under our feet, we reached the cache at Sand-hill Bay.
had been not tou:^hed by the wolves; and, with the exception o[

cnoir

APFEAIUNCE OK TWO INDIANS.

85

y to be correct; llioii:
erne, running in opp
nanimouson thishe^
marsh or narrow m
one and all laughed
srn river myself, niea:
iklin had so narrow,
I subject, as to wliicl;
arded the magnitude
so with respect to
on increasing bysii
ighout its descent, a:
3 stream; but, slavisli
e land, it might po>^
ject ; and whatever
itains in the distao
ve should have no la

40 51 "i\.; longili
peared, therefore, tt
xtremity of Bathur>
any distance downi!
a turn to the lefl, at
ace of its being ide:
int N. E. trending w

country in the spi :
not accustomed to
as they said, offalli:
could be placed
them only by rcpo
le least desire to e
y us. We embaii
sing Icy River, K:
n island at its moii:
Having madei
enience, owing toii
stones, which slippt
t Sand-hill Bay.
ith the exception o[

n

litary raven, busily occupied in devouring a piece of refuse deer's

ih, not a living creature was to be seen.

The canoe being repaired, we coasted along the eastern shore of
iVe Ayhner, occasionally passing sand-banks of unetpial height,
id dipping to the south, whereas those on the Thlew-ee-choh

»ped to the north.

As we neared the narrows of Clinton-Coldcn l^ake, on the -Ith of
Jptember, a smoke was observed far south ; and, towards the
[ening, two Indians made their appearance on the bank of a hill,

I, in obedience to our signs, came to the canoe. They informed

that, in a dispute between a Chipewyan and their countrymen,
Yellow Knives, the former had been killed ; but, as he was an

)han, no one would revenge his death. The Indians generally,

5y said, had been distressed for provision, though, from the dis-
ll^t smokes they had seen in the day, it might be inferred that they

}d been successful in their hunts, and would soon have the means
bringing us a liberal supply. 3Iaufelly now told me that, as he
li|dcrstood his old father was with some Indians to the westward,
it^d, from his infirmities, was unable himself to hunt, he was anxious

Sgo and support him ; adding, that the poor old man had no other
pendence, and might be left to starve by the young men, who
a|«V'ays followed the deer, regardless of the laggers behind. Know-
that so unnatural an act was altogether improbable, and feeling
necessity of retaining him as a guide to the east end of Great
ive Lake, I refused my permission, unless he were content to sa-
crifice what his labours had already earned — a condition which, I
well knew, would not be palatablo to him : and the difficulty was
^ally got over by his persuading one of the other Indians to become

t companion, so as to enable him to return to his father at the
liest moment that I might find it practicable to release him and
tilist to his substitute. Accordingly, we made room for our new-
(ilmer, and, having picked up the bag of pemmicau left in cache,
*iWcaraped, at sunset, near the first rapid in the little river.
•^ Two Indians soon arrived from Akaitcho, whose party had that
jtf'ternoon found a seasonable relief to the long privation, which
their squalid and emaciated appearance too painfully indicated. I
lew them both: one, indeed, had been with me to the Cop pei-
ine River, on Sir J. Franklin's first expedition. With the usual
>alhy of their nature, they evinced no marks of satisfaction or sur-
pise at seeing me ; but received their tobacco, and smoked it as

. J

1

fcO

SKILI- OF DE CIIAKLOIT.

1!

' M

coolly as if it had been given by soincgenlleniaa of the cuunlry inn
regular routine of a trading expedition. Their silence and seriui,
ness soon, however, underwent an extraordinary change, wl,
ihcy heard some half dozen expresiiions which I had been am
(omed to use on the former occasion. They laughed immoderate
kept repeating the words; talked quickly among themselves, a:
seemed greatly delighted. They were supplied with presents lort
old friends Akaitcho and his brother Humpy, and as they were goit
the interpreter came with a request on behalf of Maufelly, who\i
afraid, he said, to ask mo in person lest 1 should be displeased, a
I would give him leave only to go and see his wife, who had favoui
hun with a child in his absence, undertaking faithfully to return t
fore wo should be ready in the morning. To this there could bei
objection ; and I shall net easily forget the poor fellow's transpo
as he leapt into the canoe with his countrymen, and began to %
and shout in imitation of the Canadians.

September 5lh. — IMaufelly was as good as his word; for'
4 A. M. he arrived, accompanied by another of my Fort Enterpri
acquaintances, who, actuated by curiosity, or the prospect oi
smoke, was thus early in his attention. I had this day anotherc
portunity of admiring the consummate skill of De Charloit, w
ran our rickctty and shattered canoe down four successive rapi;
which, under less able management, would have whirled it, a;
evei y body in it, to certain destruction. Nothing could exceed i;
self-possession and nicety of judgment with which he guided u
frail thing along the narrow line between the high waves of i;
torrent, and the returning eddy : a foot in either direction woi
have been fatal; but, with the most perfect ease, and, I mayao
elegant and graceful action, his keen eyes fixed upon the run,'i
kept her true to her course through all its rapid windings. Tt
rapid brought us to the same lake which had been found with :
much trouble, and crossed on the 25th of August. Our Indii
preferred the western shore, which dilTered in nothing from
opposite, except that the rocks were higher, though, like the olhef
quite barren. A group of islands appeared in a S. S. W. dire;
tion , and, as we proceeded, the hills became more sloping andl(>
craggy, with a light covering of moss upon them. Still farthf
south, in latitude 63" 15' 00" N., we saw the first dwarf pines, frot

' Lead of (he walrr,

HTORV OF THE RAT AM) Tllli BKAVEK.

IT

lanofthe country im
eir silence and serioi
idinary change, w|,,
licli I had heen aca
laughed immoderate
nong themselves, a:
id with presents lort
ind as they were gon
fofMaufelly, who«
'uld be displeased, It
^ife, who had favout
faithfully to return 1,
this there could be;
3or fellow's transpo
!D, and began to jt

as his word; for<
)f my Fort Enterpt:

or the prospect ol
d this day another c

of De CharloU, w
3ur successive rapi;

have whirled it, a;
hing could exceed i;
which he guided i:
le high waves of i
ither direction woi
ease, and, I may ac
ed upon the run/:
apid windings. Ti

been found with :
\ugust. Our Indii

in nothing from
ough, like the othef
in a S. S. W. dire.
nore sloping and h

them. Still farthf
rst dwarf pines, fro:

fprteen inches to two ieet high, which my bowman humorously
led fhs pet'Un vieu.r. In many of these the head of the stem
dead, and blanched with age; while a progeny of branches
t out from the foot, with so much of green ou their stunted limbs
sufficed to show that they were alive. Nevertheless, such as
y were, they were welcome to us, who had not seen any since
20lh of August; and, as all enjoyment is comparative, we looked
ward with delight to the comfort of a good lire. IMen's notions
happiness vary with their circumstances and condition ; and in
seemingly trilling change from one kind of food to another,
voj/af/eur has as keen a sense of pleasure, and is, perhaps, as
teful to the bountiful Giver, as more favoured mortals amid
ir boasted refinements.

The eastern shore, though dimmed by a blue mist or haze, was

asionally visible, and the country began to assume a more wooded

id inhabitable look. When we got to a long and rounded mound,

ut half a mile from the western side, I observed that both the

ians assumed a look of superstitious awe, and maintained a de-

J mined silence. I inquired the reason of this reverential demea-
ur ; when Maufelly, after some hesitation, with a face of great
*iousness, informed us, that the small island we were passing
i^^s called the Rat's Lodge, from an enormous musk rat which once
inhabited it. " But what you see there," said he, pointing to a rock

Ethe opposite shore, with a conical summit, " that is the Beaver's
dge ; and lucky shall we be if we are not visited with a gale of
wind, or something worse. The chief would perhaps laugh at the
^ry which our old men tell, and we believe, about that spot." He
^en proceeded io narrate, with great earnestness and solemnity of
l^janner, a traditionary tale, which, as illustrative of Indian notions,
q|ay not be uninteresting to the reader. It was in substance as
fellows : " In that lodge there dwelt, in ancient times, a beaver as
large as a buffalo ; and, as it committed great depredations, some-
^es alone, and sometimes with the aid of its neighbour the rat,
whom it had enticed into a league, the bordering tribes, who suf
ferod from these marauding expeditions, resolved upon its destruc-
tion. Accordingly, having consulted together on the best mode of
ecuting their design, and arranged a combined attack; not bow-
er, unknown to the wary beaver, which, it seems, had a spy in
e enemy's quarters. They set out one morning before the sun
se, and, under cover of a dense vapour which hung upon the lake,

»»

STOIIY OF

! I J

apprnacliod, with noiseless paddle, llic shore of the solitary loJn,
Not n whisper was heard, as each Indian cautiously took his stntiu'
and stood with bow or spear in act to strike. One, the ' ICaglp
his tribe,' advanced before the rest, and with light steps drew noj
a cavern in the rock ; where, )»lacing his head to the ground, |
listenetl anxiously for some moments, scarcely seeming to brcatlif
then, with a slight motion of his hrnd, he gave the welcome &il
that the enemy was within.

•'A shower of arrows was poured into the chasm; and the lor
shrill whoop that accompanied the volley had just died away in
«;averiis, when a heavy splash was heard, which, for a time, su.
pendcd fur'her operations. The attacking party gazed on one ar
Other in mule and vacant surprise; for they had not suspected tl,
subterranean passage, and felt that thf^y were baffled. The clnt
after creeping into the cavern to explore, directed them to embarl
and, having formed a crescent with their canoes at intervals of
hundred yardsfromcach other, they paddled towards the Rat's Lodg*
under the idea that the enemy might have retreated thither : if niy
it was agreed, that the rat, though, upon the whole, comparativei
harmless, should pay the penalty of his untoward alliance, an
suffer a vicarious punishment, for the sins of his friend and thegr}
tification of the disappointed pursuers. The rat, however, fork
nately for himself, had that instinctive foresight of approaching m
whicli proverbially belongs to his race ; and, however ready to assi;
his ncighbourwhen matters wentwell with him,andsomethingwasi
be gained by the co-oporation, he watched with aprudent jealousy lit
conduct and fortunes of one so obnoxious to hatred, and was readi
on the first appearance of 'anger, to stand aloof and disclaim hiit
Accordingly, when the beaver presented himself at the lodge of k
friend, to crave a temporary asylum from his pursuers, the rat, wiii
many protestations of esteem and regret, civilly declined to admi
him, and recommended him to make the most of his time by swim
raing to some rocks to the south, whei e he would be safe from lin
enemie^.

" The beaver, though stunned for a time by this unexpected re
pulse, soon recovered his wonted spirit, and, feeling his situaliot
to be hopeless, threw himself on the rat, and began a desperait
struggle. How the contest might have ended, it was difficult lo
conjecture; but the whoop of the Indians arrested the combatanis
and, darting a look of vengeance at the rat, the beaver plunged one*

l,f

i

TIIU IIAT AND HKAVUH

«0

of the solitary loiip
3usly took his sintiur
One, the * Maglr
light s>[f\ts drew ncj
id to the ground, (
f seeming to breallif
ive the welcome sn

chasm ; and the lot,
just died away in i
hich, for a lime, su.
irty gazed on one ar
lad not suspected ili
5 baffled. The cine
ited them to embarl
loes at intervals o\
vards the Rat's Lodp
reated thither : if no
whole, comparalivei
toward alliance, ai
lis friend and the gr^
rat, however, forti
it of approaching lu;
owever ready to assi;
and something was!
a prudent jealousy tt
aired, and was read;
)of and disclaim tiin
elf at the lodge of h
ursuers, the rat, wiit
lly declined to adin
of his time by swim
)uld be safe from lit

this unexpected re
feeling his situatioc
I began a desperait
d, it was difficult lo
ited (he combatants
beaver plunged one

'^oic into the water. The chase was long, and many were the
liair-hieadlb escapes of the resolute beaver : but the ardour of the
liunters was not to be .|uenched ; and tracked to the end of the lake,
and thence down the c ' ;racts and rapids which mark its course to
the next, the exhausted animal yielded its life, just as its feet touched
the di>(ant rocks of the Tal-thel-leh.

"Hut its spirit," said >Iaul'elly in a low and subdued tone, "still
lingers about its old haunt, the waters of which obey its will ; and ill
fares the Indian who attempts to pass it in his canoe, without mut-
tering a prayer for safety : many have perished ; some bold men
lave escaped ; but none have been found so rash as to venture a
iecond time within its power."

■ W 'latever may be thought of this strange story, Maufelly related
It with so serious an air, as to leave nodrv^* of his own entire and
Unqualified faith; and the minute circumslai iality of the detail
Ihowedwithwhata religious care he had ti ,isjred every particular.
* The woods afforded us a cheerful fire at oui encampaient. The
light was calm, and beautifully lit up by the flitting coruscations
©f .1 bright aurora ; nevertheless, impending storms were
t^jreatened by the cackling of hundreds of geese, which, at an
iinense height, were winging their flight to the southward. Rang-
according to their families, the Cray, or Rustard, the While,
ind the Laughing Geese, came past in quick succession, vying in
iwiflness, as if anxious to escape from the wintry horrors of the

iiorth. Nothing could be more conclusive of the breaking up of
ke season; and we had reason to be grateful for being so near home.
September 6th. — The lake gradually contracted ; and I was sorry
fb remark that the trees were generally small, and unfit for sawing
Sito planks for the construction of my boats. A bay, edged by sand-
Ibnks, seemed at first sight to offer a better kind ; but this also, on
nspection, was found knotty, full of branches, and consequently un-
ijbitable to the purpose. It was this spot that the Indians had re-
lommended, as possessing all the requisites for building and sup-
|>orting a new establishment; and a stronger example of their
iJDcapacity forjudging and of the necessity of receiving their sug-
gestions with caution, could scarcely be brought forward. The
spect was unsheltered and forbidding; the waters were without
^sh ; and there was hardly wood enouj^h in the immediaie vicinity
raise a temporary hut, far ess to supply it with fuel.
Accustomed to their exaggerations, I was not myself oiuch disap-

00

FORCE OF THE RAPIDS.

!!■ f! i

i!

pointed ; but it bore hard upon the men, whose utmost exertions
would thus be required in making the necessary preparations, at a
time when they should rather have been husbanding their strength
for the ensuing summer. We soon got to the southern extremih
of the lake, which is about forty miles long, and twelve broad at the
widest part ; and, out of respect to the distinguished corps to wbicli
some of my crew belonged, and from a grateful remembrance oi
the deep interest manifested by its oflicers * for the success of the
expedition, and of their friendly courtesies to myself, I called it Ar-
tillery Lake.

The river, by which it discharges itself into Great Slave Lake,
began its descent by an ugly rapid, too hazardous to run, and yei
scarcely so dangerous as to induce us to make a portage of. We
compromised, therefore, by lowering half the way, and carrying the
rest. A second rapid was run -, but we had not calculated on the
amazing force of so confmed a torrent; and, just as we gained the
eddy, the old canoe got a twist which nearly broke it in two
Another clump of pines induced me to land ; and, while the mei
examined the quality of the timber, I obtained a set of sights, whicl.
gave the latitude 62" 53' 26" N. ; longitude, 108o 28' 24 " W. ; and
varation, 38o 42' E.

The wood was no way better than that seen in the early part oi
the morning; and we pushed from the bank, with the intention o;
going carefully down the stream; though a look of indecision, if no;
of positive apprehension, betokened some inward working in tht
steersman's mind, for which I was utterly unable to account, unti
informed, that for days past Maufelly had been talking about thf
dangers he did know, and the dangers he did not know, in the Ah-
hel-dessy. The Indians, he said, never attempted it in any manner
either up or down; and, as he was not in a hurry to die, though b
was willing to walk on the rocks, he would not, on any account
run it in the canoe. I shamed him out of this unmanly resolution
and when he and his companion had indulged in a laugh amoiij
themselves, we slipt down another rapid. However, on trying iht
fourth, the steersman became so unnerved, as to lose all self-com
mand; and, by not co-operating with DeCharlolt, fixed us against;
sharp rock, that cut the canoe. Happily, it twirled round, an'
Hoaled till we reached the shore. The man's confidence was gone

* Col. Godby, Capt. Anderson, Lieuts. Tylden, Craufurd, &c.

LEAVE THE AII-HEL-DESSY.

n

se utmost e&erlions
I preparations, at a
iding their strength
southern extremity
twelve broad at tlie
shed corps to which
ul remembrance oi
the success of the
lyself, I called it Ar-

) Great Slave Lake,
lous to run, and yei
a portage of. We
/ay, and carrying the
ot calculated on the
ust as we gained the
ly broke it in two
and, while the met
a set of sights, whici
08o28'24"W.-,an(!

in the early part
with the intention
( of indecision, if no
vard working in thi
ible to account, unli
en talking about ik
ot know, in the Ah
ted it in any manner
rry to die, though hi
lot, on any account
unmanly resolutioD
in a laugh amooi
wever, on trying ibt
to lose all self-com
lit, fixed us against;
twirled round, &d'
lonfidence was gone

and, rather than" irtcur any more such risks in the foaming rapids
before us, I abandoned an attempt which the Indian persisted in
declaring was impossible; and the trusty and battered canoe being
left, with a few other things in cache, each man was laden with a
weight of one hundred and twenty pounds, and began to pick his
way up the steep and irregular sides of the hills. On gaining the
summit, Maufelly pointed out to me the spot where Sanpere turned
back V hen he was sent to look for the Thlew-ee-choh ; so that he
had never left the woods, and, consequently, had not been more
than half the distance. '

At first, we walked with tolerable speed over the broken rocks,
and through the intersecting guliies; but the kind of ladder exercise
whicii this imposed, taxed the muscles so severely, that the strongest
was lain to slacken his pace, as the same interruptions and impedi-
ments multiplied upon us. We had every disadvantage in follow-
ing the stream; and, as I could now trace it in a westerly direc-
tion as far as a range of mountains that cut it at right angles, and
along the base of which it would necessarily flow, there could be
no reason to impose upon my crew the fatigue of going there,
when, by following a straight line to the east end of Slave Lake,
|he distance and labour might be so materially lessened.

i took leave, therefore, of the Ah-hel-dessy, and had abundant
^ause to rejoice at having done so; for the whole distance to the
jpiountains appenred to be an unbroken succession of rapids, which
inust have stopped us ; for, whether passable or not in a boat, they
■were evidently impracticable for a canoe. The mosquitos, and th«ir
confederates the sand-flies, had of late nearly disappeared, or, if a
few still buzzed about, they were too torpid to give much annoyance,
ivhile the memory of their past injuries, with the present sense of se-
curity, had given occasion to many a jest : but our merriment was
now interrupted by the unrelenting attacks of increased swarms ot
Jhe latter, whose more southerly abode had preserved them in the
j^njoynjent of robust and vigorous health. The persecution of these
yenomoi's insects, and the badness of the route, occasioned frequent
baits; m one of which a solitary bear caught the ever-watchful sight
of the ladian ; and, instantly seizing a gun, he went with De Char-
Jolt in pursuit.
, The rock and valley favoured their approach; and, though Brfkink

Craufurd, &c.

* See page 45,

T'W

02

A BEAH Killed.

!i a

was on the look out, and, raising himself on his hind legs, stretched
out his neck, with a sort of waltzing motion, sniffing the wind sus-
piciously, all his care was ineffectual — in ten minutes he was lyinf;
dead, at the foot of the precipice over which he rolled as he fell.
Maufelly immediately ran to some willows; and, having cut a branch
and trimmed it into a skewer, he fixed it into the bear's mouth, in
such a manner as to keep the jaws fully extended ; which, he assured
me, with much gravity, would prevent its biting, as many of its
kind had been known to do, and as his own father had found tu
liis cost. To that hour, he said, he bore the marks of one, which he
thought had been dead, and was deliberately preparing to cut up;
when, to his great horror, it seized him by the leg. Aware of their
obstinacy of belief on all matters connected with hunting, or relating
to the animals with which they were familiar,! made no vain attempts
to convince them of their errors, however ridiculous, but listened
patiently, and without comment, to their stories; but my steersman
was so much diverted at the gaping countenance of Bruin, that
he gave loose to his mirth; which so annoyed the Indian, that,
with a glance of ineffable contempt, not unmixed with anger,
he muttered in his guttural language, *■' The white man did not
laugh in the rapid." He then sat down and smoked his pipe, while
his companion expertly stripped off the skin, and placed the meat
in cache, to be sent for at a future opportunity. I could not avoid
remarking the minute curiosity with which the operator inspected
the entrails, the haste with which he threw over his shoulders a
portion that he had lopped off, carefully refraining to look in that
direction, and the smile which played over his features at[beholding
the stomach filled with berries. " C'est leur fa^on," said the in-
terpreter to my inquiry, who, notwithstanding the philosophic tenoi
of his answer, was evidently as interested in the scrutiny as the
Indian himself. By the same " facon," I learned that the reindeer
liad no ec;!!-bladder in the region of the liver, nor any where else,
that they could discover ; a fact of which I have no hesitation in
confessing my previous ignorance, but which was subsequently ve-
rified by the anatomical examination of Mr. King.

The march was resumed, sometimes in valleys heaped with con-
fused masses of debris from the surrounding granite, at others along
uaProw shelves of perpendicular rocks, not unlike some of the
passes of the Alps, and threatening thesame disastrous consequences
from a false step. Our route seemed even perilous; and thinking

TORMENTED BY SAND-FLIKS.

<J3

ad legs, stretched
ng the wind sus-
utes he was lying
rolled as he fell.
ving cut a branch
bear's mouth, in
jvhich, be assured
g, as many of its
her had found to
I of one, which he
taring to cut up;
;. Aware of their
mting, or relating
e no vain attempts
jlous, but listened
but my steersman
ze of Bruin, that
the Indian, that,
ixed with anger,
bite man did not
fed his pipe, while
i placed the meat
I could not avoid
pSrator inspected
r his shoulders a
ig to look in that
ures at[beholding
)n," said the in-
philosophic tenor
scrutiny as the
hat the reindeer
any where else,
no hesitation in
subsequently ve-

eaped with con-
J, at others along
ie some of the
^us consequences
is; and thinking

the Indian had purposely led us into it byway of revenge for the
late laugh, I hastened forward to remonstrate ; but he kept his lead,
and when I reached the summit of the mountain, the sun was setting,
and it was time to encamp. " Let not the sun go down on thy
wrath," admonished me to be silent; and when Maufelly pointed to
Artillery Lake on the far horizon, and to another at the extreme
south, I rejoiced that, whatever the motive might have been, he had
chosen that steep and weary track. It was a sight altogether novel
to me ; I had seen nothing in the Old World at all resembling it.
There was not the stern beauty of Alpine scenery, and still less the
fair variety of hill and dale, forest and glade, which makes the charm
of a European landscape. There was nothing to catch or detain
the lingering eye, which wandered on, without a check, over endless
lines of round-backed rocks, whose sides were rent into indescrib-
ably eccentric forms. It was like a stormy ocean suddenly petrified.
Except a few tawny and pale green lichens, there was nothing to
relieve the horror of the scene ; for the fire had scathed it, and the
gray and black stems of the mountain pine, which lay prostrate in
mournful confusion, seemed like the blackened corpses of departed
vegetation. It was a picture of "hideous ruin and combustion "

Our encampment was broken up, and we were on our way very
early on the morning of the 7th of September, but every one was
too busily engaged in picking his way to speak; not a word was au-
dible until about eight o'clock, when a fine buck deer, betrayed by
its branching antlers, was espied feeding behind a point thirty paces
from us. It was brought down; and the haunch, covered with a
rich layer of fat two inches thick, afforded a luxurious breakfast.
Having put the remainder en cache, we proceeded on our way, and
when we had gained the top of a hill. Slave Lake was seen right be-
fore us, hemmed in by mountains of considerable magnitude and
height. A craggy range to the right determined the course of the
Ah-hel-dessy ; and many a steep rock and deep valley between the
lake and us, announced the fatigue which was to be endured before
we arrived at our destination. But how can I possibly give an idea
of the torment we endured from the sand-flies? As we dived into
the confined and sufl'ocating chasms, or waded through the close
swamps, they rose in clouds, actually darkening the air : to see or
to speak was equally difficult, for they rushed at every undefended
part, and fixed their poisonous fangs in an instant. Our faces stream-
ed with blood, as if leeches had been applied; and there was a

04

MEETINO WITH MR. M'LEOD.

•i:i i an

burning and irritating pain, followed by immediate inflammation,
and producing giddiness, which almost drove us mad. Whenever
we halted, which the nature of the country compelled us to do often,
the men, even Indians, threw themselves on their faces, and moaned
with pain and agony. M^ arms being less encumbered, I defended
myself in some degree by waving a branch in each hand ; but even
with this, and the aid of a veil and stout leather gloves, I did not es-
cape without severe punishment. For the time, I thought the tiny
plagues worse even than mosquitos.

While speaking on this subject, I am reminded of a remark of
Maufelly, which, as indicative of the keen observation of the tribe,
and illustrating the humanity of the excellent individual to whom it
alludes, 1 may be pardoned for introducing here. — It was the custom
of Sir John Franklin never to kill a fly ; and, though teased by thepi
beyond expression, especially when engaged in taking observations,
he would quietly desist from his work, and patiently blow the half-
gorged intruders from his hands — " the world was wide ei ough for
both." This was jocosely remarked upon at the time by Akaitcho
and the four or five Indians who accompanied him ; but the impres-
sion, it seems, had sunk deep, for on Maufelly's seeing me fill ray tent
with smoke, and then throw open the front and beat the sides all
round with leafy branches, to drive out the stupelied pest before I
went to rest, he could not refrain from expressing his surprise that
I should be so unlike the old chief, who would not destroy so much
as a single mosquito.

As we got to the confluence of the Ah-hel-dessy with Great Slave
Lake, I was glad to perceive that the trees, though knotty, were of
greater girth, and that some small birch were also thinly scattered
about. As yet, however, I had not seen any that would have an-
swered for planking, and began to fear that we should have to send
about one hundred and fifty miles for that indispensable material.

We had now reached the eastern extremity of the lake, where,
in my lett(;r of the 19th of August, I had directed Mr. M'Leod to
build an establishment. Proceeding onward over the mossy and
even surface 3f the sand-banks, we were accordingly gladdened
by the sound of the woodman's stroke ; and, guided ')y the branch-
less trunks, which lay stretched along the earth, we soon came to
a bay, where, in agreable relief against the dark green foliage, stood
the newly-erected framework of a house. Mr. M*Leod was walk-
ing under the shade of the trees with La Prise, and did not hear us

LE GRAND JEUNE HOMME,'

»5

.te inflammation,
lad. Whenever
ed us to do often,
3ices, and moaned
bered, I defended
1 hand ; but even
)ves, I did not es-
thought the tiny

id of a remark of
ition of the tribe,
vidual to whom it
•It was the custom
5h teased by them
king observations,
itly blow the half-
is wide ei ough for
time by Akaitcho
n ; but the impres-
ling me fill ray tent
I beat the sides all
led pest before 1
his surprise that
destroy so much

with Great Slave
knotty, were of
thinly scattered
would have an-
)uld have to send
sable material,
the lake, where,
i Mr. M'Leod to
r the mossy and
dingly gladdened
d ')y the branch-
we soon came to
len foliage, stood
Leod was walk-
did not hear us

' until we were within a few yards of him. We were ranged in
single file, the men having, of their own accord, fallen into that
order; and, with our swolleu faces, dressed and laden as we were,
some carrying guns, others tent poles, &c., we must have presented
a strangely wild apperance, not unlike a group of robbers on the
stage.

This, however, did not prevent my friend from testifying his sa-
tisfaction at our return. He had expected that our route would

^ have been by a small river, about a mile to the eastward, invariably
used by the Chipewyans or Yellow Knives, whenever they proceed
in that c'vection; and, .' i it may be supposed, quite unknown to me
until that moment. On subsequent inspection, however, it was
found to be too shallow for canoes, being merely the outlet to some
small lakes, and the waters of a picturesque fal), from four to eight
miles distant. There were many small Indian canoes stowed under
the branches of the willows ; and as it was the lowest and most
favourable route to the Barren lands, it was preferred, it seems, to
those by which I had passed.

CHAPTER VII.

" Le grand jeune Homme." — Trade with the Indians. — Sunday. — Mr. King
arrives, with two Bateaux. — Performed a Surgical Operation. — Discomrorts
of an Indian Canoe. — Conduct of the party. — Erection of new Dwelling. — >
Arrival of Indians. — Their Policy. — Aged Indian Woman. — Starving Visi-
tors. — Case of Revenge for Inhospitality. — The Thlew-ee-choh described.

Observatory. — Strange Appearance of the Aurora. — Pouring in of the Indians.
— Superstitious Fancies. — Shortness of Food. — Domiciled in the new Build-
ing, named Fort Reliance. — Supplies again fail. — Akaitcho. — Discha.'ge of

DeCharloitand two Iroquois; also, of La Charity. — Gloom of the Indians. 3tory

of a young Hunter. — Breach of Indian Law — Death of the old Woman.—
Christmas-day. — Short Allowance. — Experim *s. — Excessive Cold. Arri-

"i val of Mr. M'Leod. ~ Barbarous Atrocity. — Revolting Sto.y of an Indian.

i I LEARNT from Mr. M'Leod, that he had waited the arrival of the
Indian chief, " Le grand jeune homme," at Fort Resolution ; that
|it first the chief had affected to be mightily disappointed on being
^old that I did not require his services ; but had gr,adually moderated

06

SUNDAY,

111

his ill humour on hearing of our limited slock of goods, and tlir
strict regularalions that were to be enforced ; and finally, having
been requited for his loss.of time with the value af forty beaver skins,
he became perfectly satisfied, and was so left.

Assisted by the Indians, and having picked up La Prise with mv
canoe, etc., at Hoarfrost River, Mr. M'Leod had arrived on the
22d of August; and, with only four men, had contrived to erec;
the log framework already mentioned. The work had been
seriously interrupted by the sand-flies; nor could the men stand to
it at all without the protection of clouds of smoke, from small fire:
of green wood which were kept burning around them.

The hopes of a new establishment on the borders of a lake resi
chiefly on the produce of a fishery; and the daily supply of white
fish, as well as trout^ yielded by, the nets, seemed to verify the
accounts we had received, and held out an encouraging prospeci
for the future. Some meat, also, had been seasonably brougk
in by the Indians, in paying for which, Mr. M'Leod, foreseeing j
great expenditure of ammunition, had, with a proper regard i:
economy, reduced the usual trad if- prices. The innovation wasbi
no means popular, but, as there were upwards of one hundred ant
fifty miles between us and the next house, it was their interest l(
acquiesce; for, the market being near their hunting grounds, if the;
got smaller profits, they had quicker returns.

The following day being Sunday, divine service was read, &i
our imperfect thanks were humbly offered to Almighty God for tlii
mercies which had been already vouchsafed to us; and, though ii
this imperious climate, with every thing to do, time was certainlj
precious, yet, feeling that the first opening of the sacred voliinii
in this distant wilderness ought not to be profaned by any mixtun
of common labour, I made it a day of real quiet and repose.

After the men had recovered from their bites, rather than thei
fatigue, they were sent for the meat which we had concealed on on:
track; and returning by a different route, they had the good fortuDi
to find a clump of trees sufficiently free from knots to admit of thei;
being converted into the proper length of planking for boats. Thii.
discovery was most important, as it was afterwaids found to be tlif
only clump at all suited to the purpose; and, had it not been thiii
luckily stumbled on, the trouble, expense, and fatigue of sending ai
least a hu..dred miles over the ice for wood, might have cramped
if not altogether paralysed, our efforts in the ensuing summer.

4
I

r

ARRIVAL OK MK. KING.

01

f goods, and ili?
d finally, having
orty beaver skins,

La Prise with ray

d arrived on the

onlrived to ereci

work had been

On tlic KUh of September, 1 had the gratiiicalion (u welcome to
the fort my companion IMr. King. He arrived with the two laden
bateaux; and, notwithstanding his inexperience in the country, he
brought his heavy cargo in a very good state of preservation. He
had suffered, as was to be expected, the usual impositions which
the old votfaf/eurs consider themselves entitled to practise on the
uninitiated, and had, consequently, been exposed to frequent per-
sonal inconveniences. Between Cumberland House and Isle h la
the men stand (o | Crosse, he met some Cree Indians, " who passed," said Mr. King,
, from small I'lrei "in their canoes, in seeming high spirits; but in a short time the
ihem. old man of the family returned, with a request that I would extract

lers of a lake res: :; a tooth, claiming me, at the same time, as a brother ' medicine man.'
ly supply of whitt I The difference in his first and second appearance was truly ludi-
med to verify the • crous, — then active and cheerful, now diseased and dejected : he
ouraging prospect ; acted his part admirably, and, at his earnest entreaty, I gave him
f a few harmless mixtures, which might assist him in maintaining his
I professional respectability." The negligence of the men had caused
f his passing the pitch springs in the Elk Kiver without taking in a
supply; and, on reaching Chipewyan, he had to send back for some.
Fortunately, during the delay so occasioned, Mr. Charles, the chief-

jasonably brougk
^^eod, foreseeing a
proper regard I;
innovation was bj
)f one hundred anc
as their interest K

1 factor of the district, arrived, and relieved him from another em-

ng grounds, if the; | barrassing situation with regard to provisions. He had my di-
rections to supply his party with enough for thirty day's consump-
tion, but was informed by the clerk in charge that he could not have
half the quantity, as some must be reserved for the Slave Lake and
Peace River brigades. His instructions were positive, to keep our
sixty bags entire, except in case of actual starvation; and he had
begun therefore to provide nets, to avoid the necessity of trenching
on tiiem, when the opportune appearance of the chief-factor re-
moved his disquietude, by clearing the store for him. IMr. King at
the same time bore grateful testimony to the general courtesy and
kindness manifested by this gentleman. Certainly to one who is
wandering for the first time in a strange land, the meeting with a
generous and warrn-hearted countryman is inexpressibly delightful.
It cheers and refreshes the traveller, carrying back his thoughts to
that dear land which claims them both for its children. That Mr.
King, under the circumstances in which he found himself, s!;ould
feel even more than ordinary gratitude, was but natural.

While at Chipewyan, Mr. King had performed a successful ope-
ration on a woman's upper lip, which was in a shocking state from

7

ice was read, ant
ighty God for tk
is; and, though it
ime was certaini
he sacred voliini!
id by any mixtiut
and repose,
rather than thei
concealed on on:
the good fortuK
Its to admit of thei:
"or boats. Tfe
•ds found to be tk
[d it not been thui
jigud of sending at
;ht have crampe<i
ing summer.

yh

CONDUCT OF TIIK PARTV

m ■

cancer, brought on, as lie lliought, froni the inveterate habit of
smoking, so common among the half-breeds. He had met with Iwu
or three cases ol" it before; one, at Fort WilUam, was incurable, and
very loathsome. His presence was hailed with delight at every
post beyond Jack River, either by the natives, or those who resided
at them; and he surprised me to learn how much disease has spread
through this part of the country.

Having procured the tar, Mr. King embarked in a half-sizod
canoe with four men, and followed the bateaux, which had been
sent ahead, without oilier guide than .lames Spence, one of my men
in the last expedition, who had exchanged with a Canadian, to join
me, — an excellent lad, but with not a very accurate memory, so
that the canoe was nearly drawn into the frightful rapids and falls
of the " Cassette," to run which is never even attempted. He had
passed the proper turning to make the portage, and the Iroquois
in the bow declared he could neither advance nor retreat. Luckih
they were near the land, which they reached ; and, by convertinj!
their ceintures, or sashes, into a towing line, they hauled up againsi
the strong current, and ultimately got into the right track. On de-
scending the Slave Hiver, Mr. King met some Indians, and engaged
one to take him in his small canoe to Fort Resolution, under the
impression of gaining time; and this species of travelling he de-
scribed as not being over comfortable. '• I was forty hours in the
Indian canoe," said he, " and it was decidedly the most irksonif
time I ever spent. 1 was not able to move htnd or foot; and thi*
occasioned such a state of drowsiness, as made sleep almost irre
sistible, though the consequence might have been the upsetting ol
the canoe." Some strong tea, however, dispelled it; and, on
reaching the Fort, he found that the boats had been four days be
fore him."

The people, according to Mr. King's account, had conducteii
themselves as well as those of their station generally do, under si
milar circumstances, with the exception of two ; and they were tlif
less excusable, from the consideration shown them and the generoui
treatment they had experienced from the Arctic Committee in Eng
land. I therefore took this occasion to assemble the whole of inj
party, and to inflict a public and severe reprimand upon the ol

* I had l)ccii kindly provided with various sends, by Mr. Lindley, the leariif!
Secretary of the HorticiiUural Society, some of wlucli were left at each post.

CONSTRUCTION OF NLVN DWELLING.

'.»'.>

:»terate habit ol
1(1 met with Iwo ]
s incurable, and
elight at every
3se who resided
iease has spread

in a half-sizod
which had been
?, one of my men
Canadian, to join
rate memory, so
I rapids and falls
mipted. He had
and the Iroquois

retreat. Luckih
lid, by converting
hauled up againsi
;ht track. On de-
ians, and engaged
plution, under llie

travelling he de
forty hours in llie

he most irksonif

or foot; and this

leep almost irre
the upsetting ot

iUed it; and, on
en four days be

|t, had conducted
illy do, under si
md they were tlif
I and the generoiis
lommittee in Eng
the whole of m;
ind upon the ol

iLindley, the learne!
eft at each post.

fenders. The binding nature of their agreements was recapitulated,
and a brief explanation given of the system that would be observed
ihroughout the service. I endeavoured to convince them that it was
tlieir true interest to conduct themselves like good and honest men ;
and I reminded them that they were embarked in an enterprise
which, whether successful or not, would always receive the meed
ol public approbation. After this admonition I introduced Mr.
M'Leod as an oflicer of the expedition, and the person to whose
superintendence and management our futuie establishment would
be committed; and I informed them that from him they would
receive their orders.
The site of our intended dwelling was a level bank of gravel
i and sand, covered with reindeer moss, shrubs, and trees, and look-
ing more like a park than part of an American forest. It formed
the northern extremity of a bay, from twelve to fifteen miles long,
and of a breadth varying from three to five miles, named after my
li'iend Mr. iM'Leod. The Ah-hel-dessy fell into it from the west-
ward, and the small river previously mentioned from the eastward,
(jlranilic hills, or mountains, as the Indians teirn them, of gray and
flesh-coloured felspar, quartz, and in some places large plates of
mica, surrounded the bay, and attained an altitude of from five to
ifllteen hundred feet ; which, however, instead of sheltering us,
rather acted as a conductor for the wind between E. 8. E. and
W, S. W. which occasionally blew with great violence. The long
sand-banks, which ran out between the two rivers, and the snug
inooks along the shores, seemed to olFer a sale retreat lor the white
pish during their spawning season, which was now at hand ; and
|niore nets were set, to take advantage of so auspicious a promise.
The men were divided into parties, and appointed to regular
asks : some to the felling of trees, and squaring them into beams
r rafters ; others, to the sawing of slabs and planks : here was a
roup awkwardly chipping the shapeless granite into something
like form ; and there a party in a boat in search of mud and grass
for mortar. It was an animated scene; and, set oft" as it was by
he white tents and smoky leather lodges, contrasting with the
ountains and green woods, it was picturesque as well as interesting.
In a few day*, the framework of the house and observatory were
p ; but, it consequence of the smallness of the trees, and the
istance from which they were carried, our progress in filling up
he walls was necessarily slow. In the meantime, there was an

m

I

. f il

M ii

1

100

VURI\ AL OK INDIANS.

cvidcnl falling ull in the numbci's ul the wliitc fish, which had
given place to trout. On examination, it was ibiind that tlicsc
latter had eaten the spawn oC the others.

We were scarcely settled in our new station, when a small parlv
of Indians came with a little meat ; and, having obtained in ex-
change what they wanted, went away again, leaving, however,
behind them an inlirm old man. Two more elderly Chipewyans
shortly afterwards joined him, one of whom carried on his back his
son, who was weak from want of food. In short, the sick and mi-
serable soon began to (lock in from all ({uarters, in the hope ol
procuiing that succour from us which we could not aH'ord but
through the means of their own countrymen. Indifferent to tlu'
sutt'erings of those around them, the hale hunters move with the
activity almost of the animal they pursue ; trusting to the humanit)
of the white man to sustain the inlirm or sinking members of their
family. In a long settled post, the resources of which are constant,
this may be tolerated, so long as it does not amount to imposition;
but in our situation, cramped as we were already beginning to be
in our means, it was easy to foresee that the injudicious encourage-
ment of such a practice would involve us in inextricable dilficulties.
With this conviction, I resolved not to yield to it; and, though the
applicants never left us altogether unsolaced or empty-handed, they
were not permitted to remain on the ground. Wherever a statioB
is established, not only the diseased, who come from necessity, bin
swarms of other visitors, immediately repair to it, — women anil
children, old and idle, seeking what they can get, or actuated b\
curiosity, or, as they say, " coming to see their relations," by thai
term meaning the half-breed women who are the partners of the
voiitujcnrH. Fortunately we had none of these relations^ and were
therefore free from the unwelcome civilities of their kinsmen of the
forest. To be sure, when an excuse is wanted for a visit, they ar"
not particular as to the degree of affmity ; for an Indian, who ad-
dressed me as " brother in law," being asked why he gave me
so affectionate an appellation, answered with great naivete^ "Whall
does not the chief recollect that I spoke to him at Chipewyan ?"

On the 29th of September, a fire being seen on the opposite side
of the bay, a canoe was despatched to see who had made it; and
soon returned, not wili\ a good load of meat, as we had«hoped, bin
with a poor old woman, bent double by age and infirmities, ami
rendered absolutely frightful by famine and disease. The ills that

AGED INDIAN WOMAN.

101

sh, wliicli bad
iiind llial llicse

Bn a small parly
obtained in ex-
iving, bowever,
Briy Cbipcvvyans
i on bis back his
tbe sick and mi-
, in tbe bope ol
I not aTord bul
[ndifferent to the

I

5 move witli the
g to tbe liumanilj
members of tbcii
hicb are constant,
lint to imposition;
y beginning to be
iicious encourage-
ricable dilUculties.
•, and, tbougb the
pty-handed, they
/berever a statioa
om necessity, bin
it, — women and
let, or actuated bv
jrelations," by thai
lie partners of the
lations^ and were
ir kinsmen of the
r a visit, tbey a-"
Indian, wbo ad-
'by be gave me
nairere, "Whall
"bipewyan?"
tbe opposite side
ad made it; ami
|e bad#hoped, bm
h infirmities, and
Ic. Tbe ills that

"ilosh is beir to" bad been prodigally bcaped on ber, and a luore
hideous figure Dante bimself bas not conceived.

Clad in deer skins, ber eyes all but closed, ber bair matted and
liltliy, ber skin sbrivelled, and feebly supporting, with the aid of a
slick held by botb hands, a trunk wbicb was literally bori/ontal, sbe
presented, if sucb an expression may be pardoned, tbe shocking
and unnatural appearance of a human brute. It was a humiliating
spectacle, and one wbicb 1 would not willingly see again. Poor
wretch ! Her tale was soon told : old and decrepit, sbe bad come
to be considered as a burden oven by ber own sex. Past services
and toils were forgotten, and, in their figurative style, tbey coldly
told her, that " tbougb sbe appeared to live, sbe was already dead,"
and must be abandoned to ber fate. "There is a new fort," said
they ; "go there; the whites are great medicine men, and may
have power to save you." This was a month before; since wbicb
time she bad crawled and hobbled along tbe rocks, the scanty supply
of berries which sbe found upon them just enabling ber to live.
Another day or two must have ended her suiferings.

The nights now began to get frosty, and diminished the chance of
taking fish in any number, so that in a length of lour hundred

lathoms of net, only twenty-seven, and those of an indifferent sort,
were caught. As these did not suflice for the rations of tbe day,
I we were reluctantly driven to our sea stock of pemmican.

October. — Starving Indians continued to arrive from every point
^ of the compass, declaring that the animals had left tbe Barren
! Lands where tbey had hitherto been accustomed to feed at this

season : and that the calamity was not confined to the Yellow

Knives, but that the Chipewyans also were as forlorn and destitute
; as themselves. There is no reasoning with a hungry belly, that I

am acquainted with. The only way is to satisfy ils demands as
; soon as possible ; and, indeed, when this is obstinately refused, the

Indian considers, and perhaps rightly, that he is only obeying the
' natural impulse of self-preservation, in laying forcible hands on
' whatever falls within his reach.

\ At oneoftbeCompany'spostsin the northern department, where
] the animals, as in oar case, were so scarce that the natives could
\ not procure subsistence, they threw themselves on the generosity

of the gentleman in charge, and requested a smalf proportion of
i the meat out of his well- stocked store, to enable them to recruit

i

I their strength for fresh efforts in the chase. They \v(m e denied ;

i.1

1S9433

I

Mi

m

m

fl

'■flii "

1

Mi

\

i

wl

!>■

fwi

■!! '

flf '

.

i f-

r

\0'i

TAHi; OF IIEVENOK FOK IMIOSPITALITY.

and rclurne^ dejected to their \vintry abode. Nuw and then a inuosr
deer was killed, but long was (he lasting between; and in thos(
intervals of griping pain, the inhospttality of the white man was
dwelt upon with savage indignation, which at last vented itscirin
projects of revenge. An opportunity presented itself in the arrival
at their lodges of the interpreter, who had been despatched from the
factory to sec what they were doing. This man had not been po-
pular with them before, and the part he had taken in the late Iranii-
action had aggravated the feeling against him. Of this he was him-
self aware ; and being a half-breed, was not without the cautious
suspicion which is characteristic of the aboriginal. Still the wont-
ed familiarity, and the friendly pipe that greeted his entrance into
the principal lodge, diminished his fears ; and a little dried meat,
given with apparent cheerfulness for the use of the fort, finally
removed all apprehension. Two Canadians, who had accompa-
nied him, left early on their return ; and, in an hourafter, he followcil
llieir steps. The Ii. ' -»s watched him until he was hid by the
woods; then grasped t, .i* guns, and by a short cut gained a spot
favourable for their purpose, before any of the three had arriveil
('Owering in ambush within ten paces of the track, they waited
for their approach, and at a given signal fired, and brought down
two of the unsuspecting travellers. The third tied, and was pursued
with savage yells by the infuriated Indians. Fear added wings to
(lie Canadian ; and having outstripped the foremost, he hid himselt
breathless and exhausted among some rocks. The Indians rushed
past without perceiving him, and having reached the house, broke
luriously into the apartment of the gentleman, who had not yet
liseu, and after reproaching him with the horrors he had caused,
instantly deprived him of life.

Their vengeance being tlius horribly satiated, they returned lo
the woods without committing the slightest act of spoliation. The
Canadian and another man, whom, strange to say, they did not
molest, hastened to the neighbouring posts, with an account of (his
shocking ca(astroj)lic. Fresh parlies were established at the same
staliim, and the perpetrators of the murder w ere finally hunted down
by tht! people of their own tribe, — a melancholy but salutary lesson
not only to the red man but to the white.

It was now (he middle of October, and up to this time a few snow
birds and (our while par^ridgrs were all (hat had been seen. The
(Icrr loo, as well as the ^i.sh^ scemtMl to have lakcn their depardii*

1 01

:tii

FY.

ind then a muosr
; and in ihoso
wliite man wsa, ,
It vented itself in
elf in the arrival
patched from the
bad not been po-
in the late irana-
this he was him-
bout the cautious
Slill thewont-
his entrance into
little dried meat,
the fort, fmally
10 had accompa-
after, he followed
was hid by tlic
cut gained a spot
hree had arrived
ack, thoy waited
nd brought down
and was pursued
r added wings to
it, he hid himseli
e Indians ruslicd
the house, broke
ho had nut yei
he had caused.

[hey returned to
Lpoliation. The
lay, they did noi
account of this
lihed at the sunir
illy hunted down
|t salutary lesson

Lime a few snow [
been seen. The
Itlicir dopartiiiT

UI'lLI) AN OliSKKNAlOUV.

I(K<

('lie Indians, satisfied with the pittance doled out to them, and hav-
ing been supplied with hooks and bits of nets, quilted us one after
another, leaving only some of the elder ones, from two of whom I
learnt, that they had been further down the Thiew-ee-choh than
any others of their tribe. They described it favourably, and as-
sei-ted that it was entirely free from falls, though sufliciently inter-
rupted by rapids. The value of tliis assertion will liereafter be
seen. Their idea of its course was that it ran due north, or, if any
thing, rather to the eastward, though from some blue mountains
often mentioned in the discourse as the limit of their knowledge, it
was represented as taking a course to the left. Tlieii* statements,
moreover, corroborated the previous opinions given of the The-
lew, which was said to How through a low marshy tiact, connected
with an estuary, opening to the sea by a narrow channel, the shores
ol which were lined by Esquimaux. On these people, they said
ihey had formerly made war, as well as on the Esquimaux at the
iiioiith of the ThIew-ee-choh.

The work of building went on briskly, though our substitute for
uiortar, clay and sand, froze as fast as it was laid on. The obse?'-
vatory was soon completed ; it was a square building twelve feet
inside, having a porch at the west with double doors, the outer one
(tf which opened south. The loof was angular, and covered with
I oiigh slabs of wood having the Hat side down, and the hollows on
the outside were filled up with a mixture of clay, sand, and dry
1,'rass. It had four windows of moose-skin parchment, with a
'^iiiall pane of glass in each, facing respectively north, south, east,
;ind west. The space within was carefully cleared of all stones,
and a thoroughly dried trunk of a tree seven feet long, and two feet
and a half in diameter, was let down into a hole three feet deep in

! the centre, and then rammed tight by successive layers of clay and
sand. This part was cased in a square framework of three feet,
grooved and mortised ; and the interior spaces were gradually filled
lip with the same composition as was used to piaster the walls.
When the plaster was quite dry, a square thick board was mortised
on the post, and the whole fabric was as firm as a rock. The floor
was planked, and when the doors were closed, the difference of
temperature between the out and inside was 14'. There was not
a nail or the smallest particle of iron in the building , and to guard

^ against the accidental approach of any person with a gim, an axe,
i or the like, I had it enclosed with a ring fence of seventy feet diu

^

^1

1 04

STIIANGE APPEARANCE

, I

ine(er. It was situated on a gentle rise, two hundred yards Iroiii
the lake, and about one hundred from the east end ol the
house. A strong stall, fifteen feet high, was fixed on the northern
extremity of the ridge pole, on the spindle of which was a vane;
and besides white poles, placed in the direction of the true and
magnetic meridian, I had a horizontal cross at the north side ul
the observatory, within the fence, to enable us to take the bearings
of phenomena with greater accuracy than can be attained by tht
mere guess of the eye. The angular heights of the surrounding
mountains were also ascertained.

Observations were immediately made for the magnetic force and
dip, with Hansteen's and Dollond's needles, and a lozenge-shaped
one after the nggeslion of Captain Beechey ; but this, for the sake
of clearness, will, together with our observations of other pheno-
mena, be thrown into a tabular form in the Appendix. Three ther-
uiometers (spirit) were placed inside the observatory — four outside
on the north, and one exposed to the sun on the south side. The\
had been previously compared, and for some time their relative
means weie taken ; but afterwards that plan was relinquished, and
the nearest mean thermometers were adopted as standards for <lif
whole. The daily variation Instrument, made by Jones, on a plan
of Professor Christie's, to be explained hereafter, was also adjuslod
in the magnetic meridian, and its readings registered ten times a day,
between eight in the morning and midnight. The temperature^
were noted fifteen times in the twenty-four hours.

A short time after the needle was placed, there was a strange
appearance connected with the aurora, and which, though it will
probably be again mentioned when 1 come to treat of that subject
expressly, I may perhaps be excused, on account of its .^iuigularity,
for notifiing in this place also. At 5'' 80" i'. m,, while occupied in
taking the tiansit of a star, 1 perceived the coruscations streaming
from behind a detached and oblong dark cloud in a vertical po
vilion at K. b. S. They issued along an undulating arch 38° high.
and spread themselves laterally in beams north and south. Another
arch, brighter and narrower than the former, suddenly emerged
hom W. b, IN., and passed between a nearly horizontal black cloud
and the stars, whit'h wore then not visible through the Aurora. I
iinmcdiatciy looked at the needle, and found it slightly agilaied, Inii

Mngiu'lir luiuini;

iinp£

tut I
f ^iici

^t (0

OF THE AURORA.

»(!.>

red yards IVom
it end ol iho
111 the northern
h was a vane;
f the true and
I north side ol
e the bearings
jltained by the
le surrounding

not vibrating: on returning, I was surprised to see the dark J'Ori
y.ontal cloud to the westward not in the same shape as before. It
had now taken a balloon form, and was evidently fast spreadini^
towards the zenith. On looking to the eastward, 1 perceived thai
11 dark cloud there also was rapidly altering its appearance. So
unusual a sight induced me to call my companions, Messrs. Kins^
and M'Leod, and we saw the dark broad mass from the westward
gradually expand itself, so as to meet the other, which was likewise
rising, at or near the zenith. The effect of the junction was a dark
gray arch extending from E. b. S. to W. b. N. across the zenith, and
lonipletely obscuring the stars, though at each side of the arch they
were particularly clear and twinkling. In the meantime, the Aurora
iissumed every variety of form; such as undulating and fringed
inches, 30° to 50° high and more or less broad, with Hashes and
heains at right angles to them. The cloudy arch, too, was illu-
minated at and around its N. W. edges near the horizon, while
rays and curved beams played round its eastern extremity. In a
lew seconds, the part of this nearest the horizon assumed a zig-zag
lorni, like forked lightning; and imir.odiately the western extremity
synipathised, undergoing momentary transitions which defy de-
Miiption. Such convulsions ^t the extreme i soon affected the centre
ol the arch, which becoming gradually fainter and fainter, at last
vanished entirely, leaving the stars to shine forth in all their bril-
liance, Thp detached masses yet remained, though under various
lonns, and the Aurora nimbly played round and through them,
especially the eastern one, until not the slighest vestige of them re-
mained.

On this occasion the Aurora was high, and consequently did not
act powerfully on the needle, which was an extremely delicate one;
but I had opportunities afterwards of seeing this drawn eight degrees
on one side, by the same agency ; a remark which I only make for the
information of those, who may not he disposed to inspect the tables.

The little river to the east, and the borders of the lake, were

Irozen over by the latter end of the month; but the weather was

Very mild, and a fresh gale generally broke up the ice again in a few

iiours. To this unusual mildness of the season may be ascribed the

unparalleled sull'M-ings of the Indians, who, emaciated and worn

agitated, I'H' %"t by latigue, continued to pour in upon us from the barren lands,

4\liere, contrary to their habits, the deer still remained; keeping

U too great a distance to be lollo\vr<|. One poor fellow had not

j;netic force and
lozenge-shaped
lis, for the sake
[)f other pheno-
X. Three thei-
\f — four outside
Uh side. Tlie\
le their relative
;linquished, and
andards for Uie
lones, on a plan
as also adjusted ;
ten times a day,
e temperature>

was a strange

though it will

of that subject

its .singularity,

ile occupied in

lions stieaming

a vertical po

larch 38° high.

Uith. Anothei

llcniy emerged

Ital black cloud

llie Aurora. '

lor.

SHORTNESS OF FOOD,

I'i

ffi'T' 'j'

h "■

I

; )

tasted meal for ten days, and, but for the hope of seeing us, miisi
liave sunk by the way. Pinched as we were ourselves, httle could
be bestowed on the wretched sufferers. Amongst other fancies, the
Indians began to imagine that the instruments in the observatory,
concealed from every one but Mr. King and myself, were the mys-
terious cause of all their misfortunes: nor were they singular in thi,
opinion; for on one occasion when taking the dip, «Stc. two of the
roj/af/em's listened, and hearing only a word at intervals, such as
Now! Stop! always succeeded by a perfect silence, they looked ai
each other, and with significant shrugs, turning hastily away from
the railing, reported to their companions that they verily believed!
was " raising the devil."

Endeavouring to laugh away the whimsical notion of the Yellow
Knives, I told them that they had mistaken the thing, for that the
mysterious instruments attracted, not dispersed, the animals; a
they would find when they went to hunt. The assertion, uttered in
jest,. seemed to be verified in earnest, for an old bear was shot the
same day, and, though lean and tough, was greedily devoured
Although, among so many, it was but a taste for each, it excited a
slight animation; soon, however, they relapsed into ttieir formei
melancholy; and a painful sight it was to behold them, singly or in
groups, standing by the men at their meals, and eagerly watching
each envied mouthful, but disdaining to utter a word of complaint
The wretched old woman, whom I have spoken of before, was too
much worn out by her infirmities to be sensible of our kindness and
protection; and, though assured that she would be taken care of,|
she never failed to attend our scanty repast, and, with monotonoiiji
and feeble wailings, assailed my servant for the scrapings of the!
kettles.

Different plices had been tried for fish, but after the first haul
the nets were invariably found empty. To remedy, if possible, ai
deplorable a circumstance, the men were divided into parlies, and
with the exception of one retained to finish the house, were sent tci
a specified part of the lake for the sc purpose of procring sub
sislence. Some succeeded, but others returned after a short ab-
sence, with the loss of two nets, and a most discouraging account oi
their labours. I had therefore no resource but to reduce the dail;
rations, and stop the usual allowance to the dogs, many of which be-
came in consequence so reduced as to be barely able to crawl, ann
to this day I have not ceased to wonder how they were kept alivf

be a
torn]
guisl
pi 0
)nim
^ang
jatiiii

h" I

|i ce \
fowl

j.lo

^ A

DOMICILED IN THE NEW BUILDIN(J.

liir

seeing us, must I
slves, little could
ther fancies, the
Lhe observatorj,
f, were the mys-
^ singular in thL>
, &c. two of the
tttervals, such a?
;, they looked ai
lastily away from
verily believed 1

on of the Yellow
ling, for that the
the animals; ai
sertion, uttered
)ear was shot thf
■eedily devoured
;ach, it excited a
into their formei
hem, singly or
eagerly watching
ord of complaint
f before, was toe
our kindness and
le taken care ol
ith monotonous
scrapings of the

i
;r the fust haul'

ly, if possible, si

ito parties, and

|se, were sent ti

procring siih-.

»fter a short abj

iging account oj

reduce the dail;

knv of which be-

le to crawl, aw

LviM'c kept alivf

In the midst of these disasters, our hopes were somewhat bright-
enod by the accidental I ut well-timed arrival of two young hunters,
who, having separated from Akaitcho to look for deer, had fallen on
a large herd, some of which they had killed, but, in returning to
inform the chief of their good fortune, had got bewildered in fogs,
and finding themselves, when the weather cleared, within a day's
march of our situation, could not resist the temptation to get a little
tobacco in exchange, to us most welcome, for some fresh meat. In
a few hours, all who were capable of exertion set off for the land
of promise; and, for a time, the immediate prospect of want was
rennoved.

On the 5th of November, we had the pleasure of changing our
coM tents for the comparative comfort of the house, which, like
most of those in this country, was constructed of a framework,
lilled up with logs let into grooves, and closely plastered with a
cement composed of common clay and sand. The roof was formed
of a number of single slabs, extending slantingly from the ridge
pole to the eaves; and the whole was rendered tolerably tight by a
mixture of dry grass, clay, and sand, which was beat down between
the slabs, and subsequently coated over with a thin layer of mud.
The house was fifty feet long and thirty broad ; having four separate
rooms, with a spacious hall in the centre for the reception and
accommodation of the Indians. Each of the rooms had a fireplace
and a rude chimney, which, save that it suffered a fair proportidft
of the smoke to descend into the room, answered tolerably well.
A diminutive apology for a room, neither wind nor water tight, was
jatlached to the hall, and dignified with the name of a kitchen.
The men's houses, forming the western side of what was intended to
|)e a square, but which, like many other squares, was never finished,
Completed our building. As every post in the country is distin-
guished by a name, I gave to ours that of Fort Reliance, in token
ol our trust in that merciful Providence, whose protection we
liimibly hoped would be extended to us in the many difiiculties and
dangers to which these services are exposed. The exact site is in
latiuule 02" 40' 29" N., longitude, 109 " 0' 38-9' W. ; the variation,
Br»' 19' east, and dip, 84" 44'. About a mile from the house was a

)i CO which had been struck by lightning, and splintered twenty I'tjct
lowii the trunk, the pieces being thrown thirty or forty paces away.
! lit not recollect to have seen ;i similar instance.

V conlinualion of itiihl weather, and tlir luannrr in which the

lUH

DISCIIAROR OK FOUIl OK OUR PARTY.

t h

deer were harassed, caused tliem to return to a distance on tlir
barren lands, where they could not be I'ollowed at this season ; and
towards the end of the month our supplies again failed; distrpsv
was prevalent, and the din and screeching of women and children
too plainly indicated the acuteness of their sullering. The oppor
tune appearance of my old acquaintance, Akaitcho, with a liiili
meat, c cabled us to relieve and (juiet the confusion, and some ol
them went away with the chief, who promised that we should noi
want as long as he had any thing to send to the fort. He did noi
directly inquire about Sir John Franklin, or Doctor Richardson
but his satisfaction was very visible, when I gave him some little
presents in their names, and pointed to the silver medal presenlei!
to him at Fort Enterprise, which he was then wearing as a prool
that he had not forgotten them. An additional trifle or two madf
him quite happy, and he left us to all appearance the determined
friend of the expedition.

Among those who accompanied him was an old man, who gave
us information of a lake about thirty miles to the S. E., where on
pressing occasions he resorted to fish ; and, willing to catch at the
smallest chance of saving the pemnJcan, I prevailed on him to aci
as guide to a small party selected to make the trial ; the result ol
which, if favourable, was to be communicated without delay. Ac-
cordingly on the third day La Charity, one of the party, reacld
#e house late at night, after a painful walk without snow shoe;
through deep sif^w in the woods, bringing four fish, and the wel-
come tidings, that by spreading over a greater surface there was a
likelihood of taking more. Every man that could be spared was
thereupon sent away with him; we who remained being throwri
upon our pemmican, a third of which was already expended.

December T.^^Being anxious to diminish as far as poosible thf
number of four parly, I now discharged De Charlott and two Iro
quois, conformably to their agreements, and La Charite, at his owe
solicitation ; but not until he had provided a substitute, who turnei!
out to be in every respect superior to him as a voycKjevr. The)
were supplied with the necessary means to carry them to the neM
establishment ; and I charged De Charlolt with my despatches loi
Mr. Hay, Lender-secretary of State for the Colonies, and for tl
Admiralty — together with extra recpiisitions for the expedition diiriii;^
the following year, to be sent from \ork Factory. Only four In
dians arrived within (his week, and ihev came for food. Tlir

APPALLING VISITATIONS.

lOD

lislance on tlu
his season ; and
failed; distress
3n and children
5. The oppor
3, with a lillli
n, and some ol
it we should noi
ort. He did noi
tor Richardson
I him some little
medal presented
jaring as a prool
■ifle or two madf
e the determined

d man, who gave
} S. E., where on
ng to catch at the
iled on him to aci
•ial ; the result 0
hout delay. Ac
e party, reached
:hout snow shoe;
[sh, and the wel
[face there was
Id be spared \n
d being throwi
expended,
r as possible ttf
[loH and two Iro
arite, at his owe
ute, who turned
pycif/evr. The]
[hem to the neM
ly despatches loi
ies, and for tii
xpediliondiuin-
Only four In
r food. Tlie^

were greatly dejected, and added to the general gloom by encou-
lagiiig the apprehension of those calamities which, judging from so
unpromising a beginning, might be expected to befal them during
(he winter. Had it been a solitary instance of misfortune, their
superstition, I fear, would have fixed the blame on the expedition;
but it appeared that the two preceding years had been pregnant
with more than ordinaiy evils to the different tribes inhabiting the
country about Slave Lake and the iM'Kenzie Uiver. To the west-
ward, indeed, and more directly in the neighbourhood of the Ri-
\it're au Liard, forty of the choicest hunters among the Chipewyans
had been destroyed by actual famine ; many others had not yet been
heard of; and the scattered survivors, from the ligours of the cli-
mate, and the difficulty of procuring a single animal, had experienced
the severest hardships which even their hardy natures w ere capable
ofsustaining. Sometimes imusual and appalling visitations carried
them off, as in the case of two women and their children, who with
(heir laden dogs were travelling near the mountains, towards their-
tents; when suddenly, one of tliern called out in alarm, and before
they had time to lly, they were caught in a whirlwind, and in an
instant swept into eternity. One boy only out of the number was
found, and he died in excruciating pain the same night.

December 16. — The interpreter came from one of the fishing sta-
tions with an account of the loss of some nets, and the inadequacy
of their means of support. They seldom took more than thirteen
small fish in a day, and the Indians, now reduced to a state of great
weakness, crowded round them for a portion of what they could ill
afford. It was the same with us ; for those who happened to be
!«vithm a moderate distance fell back on the Fort, as the only chance
of prolonging their existence ; and we freely imparted the utmost
^e could square. In vain did we endeavour to revive their droop-
ing spirits, and excite them to action ; the scourge was too heavy,
iftnd their exertions were entirely paralysed. ISo sooner had one
|)arty closed the door, than another, still more languid and dis-
iressed, feebly opened it, and confirmed by their half-famished looks
jind sunken eyes their heart-rending tale of suffering. They spoke
little, but crowded in silence round the fire, as if eager to enjoy the
t)nly comfort remaining to them. A handful of mouldy pounded
tneat, which had been originally reserved for our dogs, was the
fnost liberal allwancewc could make to each ; and this meal, unpa-
latable and unwholesome as it was, together with the customary

■PI

no

SUFERSTITIONS.

m

presentation ol tlic friendly pipe, was sulTicient to eflace for a nio
ment tlie recollection of their sorrows, and even to light up then
faces with a smile of hope. — " We know," they said, "that yon
are as much distressed as ourselves, and you are very good.
Afflicting as it was to behold such scenes of suffering, it was at the
same time gratifying to observe the resignation with which they were
met. There were no impious upbraidings of Providence, nor any of
those revolting acts, too frequent within late years, which have cast
a darker shade over the character of the savage Indian. Wliilo
the party thus scantily relieved were expressing their graliiude,
one of iheir companions arrived, and after a short pause announced
that a child was dying for want of food, close at hand. The
father instantly jumped up; and having been supplied with some
pemrnican, (or we had no other meat, hurried away, and happik
arrived in time to save its life.

Like all other barbarous nations, these people are naturally prone
to superstition; and many of their legends, whatever may be thougLi
of them in these enlightened days, are quite as reasonable as tlie
traditionary tales which in other states of society dimly reveal the
past, and serve to amuse the present age. They have their good
and evil spirits, haunting the waters, the woods, and the mountains:
their giants, and confabulating animals, "animali parlanti;" their
" Pucks," and a host of other mischief-loving gentry. I allude lo
these superstitions here, by way of preface to a story related b\
one of our unhappy guests, respecting the conduct of a Chipewyaii,
whom he and many others held responsible for the absence of the
deer.

"We might have known," said a young but emaciated hunter, a«
he ejected large volumes of smoke from his nostrils, — " we migh'
have known that this winter would be marked by something
uncommon- The Chipewyans have always been unfriendly to, il
not secret enemies of, the Yellow Knives, and would feast ad
rejoice at our misfortunes. Why did become among us? \\a>
lie not cautioned by our old men to desist from his rash purpose,
and listen to the words of wisdom founded on experience ? Bm
no ; he had often, he said, been told, that if a solitary deer wen
beaten, the whole herd would at once abandon that part of the
country where the deed was done : as if thousands of animals
feeding at places far distant from each other could possibly know
what he might do at any particular spot to one of their kind. Ilf

1(1

h

ki

m

fa

■in

kn

or

far

we

cea

iiite

old,

a hi

On

Indi

ehc

Bl(a(

fury

time

had,

the(

tnoni

dian

delin

iisht

V^hic

to efl'ace for a nio-
'n (o light up then
ley said, "that yon
I are very good.'
?ring, it was at the
h which they were

)vidence,noranyof
's, which have cast
e Indian. Wliile
ig their gratitude,
t pause announced
3 at hand. Tlip
ipplied with some
»way, and happily

Sl^PERSTfTlONs.

re naturally prone
er may be thouglji
reasonable as (jie

dittily reveal die
' have their good
id the mountains:
i parlanti ; " then
itry. I allude I
I story related b

of a Chipewyau.
le absence of ilie

aciated hunter, as
'ils, — " we migli!
■d by somethinj
unfriendly to, il
would feast and
long us ? VYai
is rash purpose,
perience ? Bui
tlitary deer wer
that part of ik
ands of animals
d possibly know
their kind. He

dill not believe it • some n i i '"

s(.m.g of Ihc year, wlicn a lillle cri,., ? "^ r '*™°'<'ingly, in lh<.
(be effect of, ho heat „f the dav f^ "?/"'™'<' "n 'l.e snow Z
ko f iied ont on „, long ////teT f"!- "'; »'" <"' '"« "^gl
i.gl.tly over the bright surface Toon Hi ' ""'' ''''™"""K

feeding on a frozen swamp. '''''"'^"■'•I •";:'■' or ten deer

"Making a circuit behind them !,» „
""''»" ; 5"' «ven his almost noisdel S""'""';'''' "'» S^^^'^^
waiohful creatures. As he had expTc. h "'"' '^'"^ '"»'<' '«i
».ng every exertion to escape; but theVl.lr'"'';'" "''"" ""> '"l-e-
l«Md, were unequal to Iheir sj„„„ . l"""^'' """'«'' ■'cmarkablv
"• ';-■■ '■-"cl.es in the snol.t 'C.^"^" '•'""«^ "-y sank'
limler ; who, borne up by his |„° "" "" '"^y P'oy to the

'« them an except L' 7JZZ: "^T '"'""'' ^'' -^
mercless manner, and then drove it ', '"/""'' """'o" anJ
aligue, to his lodge, where, amid,,, he. ''."•' ""'' ^P^"' with
"'^™ ' i,'^ ™-"- were a, iTl, 'f"'' f ''''"""" '"" '''^
>«w .f there be any .ruth in your! vL / ""'"' *"•■ '' ^''"'l
;■ not, I am a Chipewyan, and si al T^ ' ""''' "''^"■•^'' ""e-e be
'-■ away, and better ,ha„ ou, sw ll! " '^ '"^ ''"''• ^^'«'' -■«
«c speak ,he ,ru,h ? The deer u"^^^ '' '""'•'"' '"""'•r' Did
««" speaking, and a deep, „'::::;' ;"" -" -" eoml" J^

I't' r '0 "^ Circr,::rn' r,- -' »^''"' - >-»

hunter, over whose gun she had nt'ck "^ '""'•'"''"' "S-'^^^

0 discovering wha, she had done i. P'"'" ''"""S ">enigh,.

*».woulddes,roy.hequa,ie „;,;:''"''• '» "-^ "l""-" of'an

6kc was so alarmed for the conll! *"'" ""'' P'"'''^"* ''^ m„.

-'ached ,0 .he man, sh pX;^;^-"^ "-er crime, .ha., ,h t .'

J2 fS^l i»flict on her. ' Zl/J'f.^ ' f ^''-- »f wLa, hi
'7 '''■ "« »vap„ra,i„n of his pass 'on ' ""'"» " '^''^""'"''e
H for,„„a,ely for her, sho, aHn "l, "."'r""' ^ ^"-t - h«
'he dsaste,-, she was let off J,^ "'"' ""' ^'""e g"n since

7»i|ion .0 bemoreea.^fu" J ?f,r""'' """'""''' ""<' - "■
^ J law, was „,ost lenient, a Z uZ 7"' """^"'"^ '" '»"
^e nquency seldom or ever eseLe, "?, """I'' '"""'' «""'y °f such
»'■' --e, or a bit cut off , e J ' l"""' •■"■"^'"»-' ">-

*l>-l' "- last ineiden, occurred a m ^ ,■ ""'"« "^ ""« ''■'y »«

' """'• ^"' W'fe. and ,hree child-

Hi

DEATH <)l" Tllli OLD WOMAN.

I")

roil sought OiP' hospitality, in a condition which made mo giievt
afresh that wc had so little to hostow. They were the most wrelcli-
ed party of all — mere shadows. The man was reduced to a skeleton;
and the scanty and tattered covering which served him for a gar-
ment, having become hard and frozen, had, by constant friction
against his bare legs, produced a dreadful state of excoriation. Nor
were the others much better off. Our situation indeed now assumed
a serious aspect, and it was impossible to divest one's self of an
xious foreboding for the future. In the midst of this gloom occurred
the death of the wretched old woman before mentioned. In spite ol
all the care which wc could bestow, she had continued to sink uncjei
accumulated infirmities and disease; the circulation became languid,
and her extremities were severely frost-bitten. Too feeble to raisf
herself up, she crawled whiningly along on her hands and knees,
with a stick to make known her presence, wherever her inclination
led her; but chielly to 3Ir. King's room, where, once a day, sin
received the benefit of his humane attention. The most indiffereii!
observer must have been occasionally shocked at the loathsome ob
jects which have met his eye on some parts of the Continent, anJ
particularly at Lisbon ; but no form or variety of human wretchednesi
or degradation that I have ever witnessed could be compared witl
that which was exhibited in the person of this poor old creature
The effect of her appearance, — the involuntary shuddering wliid
it caused, may perhaps be conceived, but cannot well be described
What a contrast between her and the young girl standing erect anil
full of juicy life by her side ! What a rebuke to the pride of Ion
manl She was found in her hut, stretched dead by the fire, neai
which were several pieces of spare wood. Among the Indians llif
event occasioned not the slightest feeling; and, as she had no re
lations, it it doubtful whether she would even have been buried
had we not taken that office on ourselves; an ofTice which, thougl
difficult at this time, on account of the frozen state of the ground
w as necessary, to preserve her remains from the starving and vora
cious dogs.

The anxiety I began to feel, respecting the actual condition of llif
main body of the Indians with Akaitcho, whom we supposed to bi
in quest of deer to the westward, was so great, that Mr. M'Leod
with much kindness and spirit, volunteered to go in search of them
and by his presence encourage and incite them to exertion. H(
left us on the 18th of December, accompanied by the interpretei

^n

3li made mo gijey,
•e the most wretoli-
lnccd to a skeleton;
t-cd him for a gar-
)y constant friction
f excoriation. i\)r
deed now assumed
t one's self of an
liis gloom occurred
tioned. In spited
inued tosinkundei
)n became languid,
Coo feeble to raise
hands and knees
vev her inclination

once a day, sIh
le most indiffereii!
the loathsome ob
le Continent, and
man wretchedness
36 compared witt
joor old creature
shuddering wiiicti
well be described
tanding erect mi
he pride of lordli

by the fire, neai
Jg the Indians iIk
IS she had no re
ave been buried,
3e which, thougt]
te of ihe ground,
arving and vora

I condition of tlif
B supposed to bt
hat Mr. M'Leod

the interpret

"RETCHED OBJECTS,
nnd an [ndian lad, who tho "*

selling for Ihieving. The veryTTd """"'"' '""' ^^^'-l « c«.I-

"•";'• '^^if' •■" had dragged J^^LT T'""'^ "^ '"'""-"■■id
From hrm we learned ih i iT ,^ ""''''''•

olherwi. bu. .ha. .hey co„.i„u d".;":"": T'^' '"'""^''"- ">»-.
tod, .„ ihe surprise of ,he Indian wh„ d , " ^"^^ "' ""= tarren
i.me .hey had devia.ed from IbeThl^ f""'","^ "■« '» "-e -he lirs"
woods a. .his inclenieni period of ul '^'""^ ""> »>""«■• of he
I'e »aid, bu. plen.y were shT \ '"""'■ ^'"y '■^■•e very noli.
!■«, if .he dis.a„oe had bferU: asT" 'T '""' -' ■» «h»
'" bnng .. would necessarily ea.Tif Tl "' ""' ?"">»« ^-ployed
™ ".0 way and therefore .L 11 "J.^ «™»- P-' of .hei^S

''-'".'edependeno^^dtXrr:!"''^"'----'^
carefully made. ^'^"^^ "» ""eir secuii.y, howcyer

Still, the knowledffp thai tu
;;• -irely ,ef. us, w'as etutZ'"t7: T" '''"'' "-" had
MW no reason ,o despair of finaHv'^lf '''' ""' '^'■g"'"^. yet I
»a»l proyision. ,„ I, J "^ ^^ ^ak.ng „p „„, „rigi„„ ..^^ 'j

realised, we were mortified and . T '"""■''"'» dream could be
-^We of .he people sU^oZTJ':}^:^ 'X^''' "'-" ^^'^^
■le cnbed as being .„.a||y „„e(,„a| 1 ,^ ^* "''""■'™' "'"d' was
«" y three or four fish a d'ayfor "he las.'::. T' '' *■"'"« y^'" «"
": ">«e, coming i„ quick success 1 T *''*• Casualties such
plans and prospeCsundeAen cTnlTT T " '""« """^a^^'-B^ ™y
wl.,oh no foresight could an icTpate „ .^'T ''™'" ^''•'="'»«a„ces
7' ^''' ' -as, perhaps, inl' , J' "'"'° ' 'ho"ght mysel
»f no use to sit slill and mone 7T ."«"■''• """"'ver, i. was
"-Id a. leas, keep „p Tpirittf-lJ^ " '"' "» «"- ^-^'C
bights from .he priyaHon whic 1" ■" """' '"^ diver, .hei
'1-7 were again d/yided, onrpai t • "T "''''"''8- '^""■'ding ly
'nd proceed to .be only Vemafni7 f L^ ''"'"='"' '« 'ale their ne.I
".e^-.estof,hei.way.o.'h:rd::r '"''"" """ ""= ""-o- 'o mX

4'^ hein';:: whlrrrS rbfr™""-- "'he^^upidly
™sl.ng and deyouring small bh" of , "'■ "'""f'" "-^ra^elves in
"en wheu entire, afforded them a ''"'"'**'• «''™»-'«. "iier

search of theffl| > o — « devouring small bi<«j «f «» • : ^"^^^ '"«raselves in

.exertion, ^i^ when entire, afforded them a ''"'"'**'• «''™»-'«. "iier
/satnst a .empe,.,„,e of los^^^^,,: 2^""*"""" P-"""-"

fl

■

»tl

1

rn

'if

H

li I

ClIKlSTMA.V-UAY.

\ ^ > t

! "1 ■.

I'alliei' toipul iuul despairing — the inotlier, with a hoMow ami se-
pulchral wail, vainly endcavourinu; to soothe the infant, which wiili
unceasing moan clung to her shrivelled and exhausted hreast — the
passive child gazing vacantly around; such was one of the inanv
groups that surrounded us. Hut not a murmur escaped from (lie
men. When the weather was a little milder, we took them into (iir
store, and showing them our remaining piovision, represented ilio
necessity of their making an effort to reach Akaitcho, wherfe their
own relations would supply them plentifully : for, trifling as was
the pittance dealt out to them hy us, yet it contributed to the dimi-
nution of our stock, and it was evident that by strict economy alone
we could get through the season at all. With the apathy so strik-
ingly characteristic of the inert and callous savage, to whom life
itself is a thing scarce worth preserving, some declared they could
not, and others that they would not go. This obstinacy compelld
me to reduce their allowance, a measure of necessary rigour, whicli
ultimately drove the stronger away, and left us more means In
nourish and support the weaker. Mv. King was unremitting in lii«
care of those who required medical aid; and often did 1 share inv
own plate with the children, whose helpless state and piteous eric?
were peculiarly distressing. Compassion for the full-grown mayor
may not be felt; but that heart must be cased in steel which is in-
sensible to the cry of a child for food, 1 have no reserve in declaring
the pleasure which it gave me to watch the emotions of those un
fortunate little ones, as each received its spoonful of pemmican from
my hand.

Christmas-day was the appointed time for opening a soldered tin
case, the gift of a lady at New York; but our companion Mr. M'Leod
being absent, we thought it fair to postpone the gratification of our
curiosity till he could participate in it; and Mr. King and I made a
cheerful dinner of pemmican. Happiness on such occasions depend?
entirely on the mood and temper of the individuals; and we cheated
ourselves into as much mirth at the fancied sayings and doings of
our friends at home, as if we had partaken of the roast beef and
plum-pudding which doubtKss " smoked upon the board" on that
glorious day of prescriptive feasting.

January, 1834. — Some Indians brought a small supply of meat,
half dried and very bad; and by a letter from Mr. M'Leod, I learned
that the animals had taken a western direction, which, with (he
«oldness of the weather, precluded llie possibility of the Indians

I!.

^i

a hollow and sp-
infant, which wiili
lusted breast — (hp
one of (he many
escaped from (lie
ook (hem into thr
I, represented tho
itcho, wherfc their
r, (rifling as was
mted to the dinii-
ct economy alone
e apathy so strik-
ge, to whom iifp
dared they could
tinacy compelled
iry rigour, whicli
more means lo
inremitting in lih
I did I share inv
and piteous crici;
ill-grown mayor
Bel which is in-
3rve in declaring
ans of those un-
pemmican from

«"OUT ALLoVVA.NCt.

Il.>

ig a soldered tin
lion Mr. M'Leod
itification of our
g and I made a
casions depends
and we cheated
5 and doings of
roast beef and
board" on thai

upply of meat,
Leod, I learned
^lich, with (lip
of (he Indians

(;)llowing them. MrYhf^ i i • .^ "'

'■a^ Oy His persona, ...^^^ afol-atir ""-'"■' ""^ ^'-
going (o visil anolher. " '"""''' »"« Party, and was

■nd onr own allowance « L ., j'!" «'"'« -' '" "- -'Ishc-y,
A«o.^er supply of ,ea„ 3„a ,, jj^^, XT"'' '"""" -='■
>vh.oh was augraenled a few da.Lnl f . "" '""' ^y Abilclio
"'•• "'Leod. He had been o etC.- '' T'',!^ '"""'^ ''o-
wos sorry lo find unprodnclive hi , ^ *'""''' ''« '^•'^i, " I
"-.Wr of serving na'l.Vel'X' p ^f/ ''"'"« ''"■"-"<' wi'L a
'■"' are now all away. T L Z, T, T'"' """I """"ying
'■"■■ "'o 'WO las. weeks I ,12a "'"'""'"y "and on their L!

l»"-'.es of .he Indians ;;l";t '"""''' ""'"« '" "■''"'-
''.angers, bnio.hers y„„ have e„ ',";" '"™"»''"l- So„.e are

' ''"P? »-" "-^y""" recovery. Fro n wl.ahr' ""'""^'^ "'^' •>■■'
•"mials are scarce." A. the Un,T, f' ^™ "f "■« "oun.ry

'-'^ fron. fa,„i„e, with a p:.": ':;„:;,."^'' — >» of .severl,'
»l„ch (here were bntfain.exDeciHn r . """■ '"'"' ofs"ffering
>l.»"ld to milder. '^""'""'°*'"^''«'<"-i"«"ntil.hewea.re;

A few days exhaus.ed our small c,„„i r
..pened ano.her bag „f pemm c" o„r L^e 7',' T' ' ^^'""-"y
Jwed .0 less (han one half of .h. "'^ *''"''' «s now re-

'l.e sea service. Mr. K^ nd VcZ'T ""»'°""^ P"' -'de L
l-nOeaehaday; bu. .ho la o„, ,!"„:': .""""^^^ ""'' '-'fa
' ""'''r' "" *■"> '"^^ than a po„°„d and T *' ''""''""' »■"'
■l'« was bu. scan.y ra.ions ; neverZurf, 7' '""'"'•^- Even
pally arlillery men), f„r from Z " "' '''•"""» Cprinci-

f'eerful and'in good Tp ts ullT'' """"""• *«^« ''ways
""s feeling of con.en.men, y g Itl k !? "^ f""-™- '» fo«
>anceof.heSabba,h (theservicebe nLre d'"''p''^ " regular obser-
•"xl by Ihc insliluiion of even r. c 7 , . '" "^""'i^hand French)
„ We had seen .he JZZZ^';^^"^ «■-■ in.provemen,. ^'
'; Aurora was brigh,. We no vt " IT" "™' "' ^^'"^ "me
fe and in.ensity of .he cold, ,"" Zl i'V?'""""" «" ">e
^ ■* .he .hermometer a. 62« minn i? "''""'' '^"'^ '^ ^"""^ •
^"Iphurio ether with a ground sil! ''"'"■* '''"<"'»'='' bottle of

«"e chest, exactly in .he s me 3 fa si', H k""'" "■" "' "'" "'»<''-
/•'■■'es- Hajl, viz. wi,h the s op ' r d- ^"' '"'" P'"""") »' Apothe-

*^W the registering thermoSonTh; " ""'"'"'' """'^^''""'y
"' — upper surface ofrLrtr:,,," «'"'«- ""--
y "^ *'^"'e was coated with

Il«

FXPERIMENTS.

i jfj i U ; '

ice, and a tliiok cfllorescenl sediment covered the bottom, wliile the
ether generally appeared viscous and opaque. After having re-
mained an hour, during which the temperature rose to 00'^ minus,
it had scarcely changed, or, perhaps, as Mr. King agreed \v'ilh me
in thinking, it was more opaque. The bottle was then carefully
brought into the house, and placed on a table, within four feet and
a half of the lire; and though so near, and with a temperature of 32"
plus, it did not recover it former clearness or purity under forty-two
minutes.

A bottle of nitric ether, similar in dimensions to the sulphuric, was
not changed in the same time ; but after two hours' exposure it also
became viscid, the temperature in the meantime having varied
from 60" to 56° minus. A fluid drachm and a half of sulphuric
ether was put into an ounce and a half bottle with a glass stopper;
and when it had become viscous, the stopper was withdrawn, and
a lighted paper applied to the mouth, when it ignited with an ex-
plosion and an escape of gas. On repeating the experiment, the
ignition did not take place until the light was brought into contact
with the liquid ; but it was accompanied by a similar explosion.

A small bottle of pyroligneous acid froze in less than 30 minutes,
at a temperature of 57° minus; as did also the same quantity of 1
part of rectified spirit and 2 of water, 1 part of the same and 1 of
water. Leeward Island rum became thick in a few minutes, but
did not freeze.

A mixture of 2 parts pure spirit and 1 water froze into ice in
three hours, with a temperature from 65° and 61° minus. Another
mixture of 4 parts spirit and 1 water became viscid in the same time.
A bottle of nitric ether having been out all night was thick, and
the bubbles of air rose slowly and with difficulty ; the mean tempe-
rature at 8 A. M., January 17th, being 70° minus!

A surface of 4 inches of mercury, exposed in a common saucer,
became solid in uvo hours, with a temperature of 57° minus.

On the 4th of February, the temperature was 60° minus, and,
there being at the same time a fresh breeze, was nearly insupport-
able. Such, indeed, was the abstraction of heat, that, with eighi
large logs of dry wood in the fireplace of a small room, I could noi
get the thermometer higher than 12° plus. Ink and paint froze,
made an attempt to finish a sketch, by placing the table {is near (lie
fire as I could bear the heat ; but a scratchy mark, and small shin
ing particles at the point of the sable, convinced me that it was

Sl'FKEUlNaS OF THE INDIANS.

in

lorn, while tlic
ier having re-

to 60" minus,
igreed with me

then carefully
n four feet and
perature of 32"
inder forty-two

! sulphuric, was
exposure it also

having varied
lalf of sulphuric,
1 glass stopper;
withdrawn, and
ited with an cx-
experiment, the
ight into contact
ar explosion,
than 30 minutes,
me quantity of 1

e same and 1 o(
[few minutes, but

froze into ice in
linus. Another
in the same time,
it was thick, and
Ihe mean tempe-

common saucer,

i7" minus.

1 60" minus, and,

3arly insupport
|that, with eigti

lom, I could not
paint froze

liable AS near tlie

1 and small shin
me that it wa

useless. The sextant cases, and boxes of seasoned wood, principal-
ly fir, all split. Nor was the sensation particularly agreeable to our
persons; the skin uf the hands especially became dry, cracked, and
opened into unsightly and smarting gashes, which we were obliged
to anoint with grease. On one occasion, after washing my face
within three feet of the fire, my hair was actually clotted with ice,
before I had lime to dry it. From these facts some idea may, per-
haps, be formed of the excessive cold. It seemed to have driven
all living things from us : we had been accustomed to see a few
while partridges about; but even these, hardy as they are, had dis-
appeared. Once, indeed, a solitary raven, whose croak made me
run out to look at him, swept round the house, but immediately
winged his flight to the westward. Nothing but the passing wind
broke the awful solitude of this barren and desolate spot.

February 9lh. — A little vuriation^as given to our society by the
gratifying arrival of Mr. M'Leod, who had preceded a party of men
laden with meat. The weather had made a visible alteration in his
countenance, which was severely frost-bitten in seven places ; nor
uas it to be wondered at on such a wide unsheltered lake as he had
been travelling over, especially when the Indians themselves were
unable to bear up against it, but were all, to the number of fourteen,
similarly lacerated. The latter complained bitterly, and compared
(he sensation of handling their ^uns to that of touching red-hot
iron; and so painful was it, that they wrapped thongs of leather
round the triggers, to keep their lingers from contact with the
steel.

The deer were represented to be plentiful enough, but so restless
and difficult to approach that few were shot ; added to which they
were edging westerly, and when left were at a distance of fourteen
days' journey from the house. Suffering, the Indian's inheritance,
attended the natives wherever they went. The forest was no
longer a shelter, nor the land a support; '' famine, with her gaunt
and bony arm," pursued them at every turn, withered their energies,
and strewed them lifeless on the cold bosom of the snov/. Nine
bad fallen victims already ; and others were only snatchtid from a
like fate by the opportune intervention of Mr. M'Leod, in compel-
ling a Chipewyan to return after his wife and child, whom the un-
natural monster had abandoned. In another instance, where two
of the same tribe had deserted an infirm and starving relative, his
efforts were unavailing, for he was found dead in the woods.

i! *

118

REVOLTING STOllV

h

. 1

For the neglect or abandonment by the more active hunters ol
the sick and feeble of their tribe, so^'e allowance may be made, on
account of the peculiarity of their circumstances. To follow and
keep up with the migratory animals wliir'a constitute their food, is
essential to the preservation, not only of the hunters themselves,
but of the whole encampment. An infirm or diseased savage is not
merely useless; he is a positive clog and encumbrance on the
motions of the rest. No wonder, then, if occasionally, in the im-
patience or necessity of the chase, he is left behind to the mercy ol
chance. But there are instances, it is painful to say, of barbarous
outrages for which no such palliation can be found. In my progres<
through the country, I heard several stories of transactions amoni;
the Indians almost too revolting to be mentioned. Others equalh
shocking were related to Mr. King ; and one in particular, as nar-
rated by Mr. Charles, the factor mentioned above, was so horrible,
that, although the recital, it is to be feared, will excite loathing and
disgust, yet I think it right to give it, as illustrative of the ocoasional
atrocities of savage life.

A Cree Indian of the name of Pepper, who had long resided
around Chipewyan as a hunter, came to the Fort in November,
1832, after a temporary absence ; and, having smoked his pipe.
gave a plausible account of severe calamities, which had befallen
him in the preceding winter. After describing the horrors of starva
tion in the desolate forest, and his ineffectua' efforts to ward it oil
he said that, worn out, at length, by hunger and cold, his wife, thf
mother of his children, sunk into a lethargy and died; his daughtei
soon followed ; and two sons, just springing into manhood, wlii
promised to be the suppf^irtof his old age, — alas! they also perished
lastly, their younger children, though tended by him with unwearied
solicitude, and fed for a time on the parings of their leather gar
ments, sunk under their sufferings, and slept with their brethren
" What could I do ?" exclaimed the man, with a frenzied look tlia
almost startled the hearers, — " could 1 look up to the Great Spirit.
— could I remain to behold my strength laid prostrate? No! no
( )ne child was yet spared. — I tied for succour. But, oh ! the wood'
were silent, — how silent! — I am here."

The boy alluded to was about eleven years of age, and at ihf
close, as during the recital, kept his eyes vacantly lixed on tin
blazing fire near which he was seated, seeming unconscious llit
iUc narration was ended, and still listening, as if waiting lor some

tive hunters ol
ly be made, on
To follow and
e iheir footi, is
rs themselves,
id savage is not
brance on the
lUy, in the im-
to the mercy ol
y, of barbarous
In ray progresj
isactions amont;
Others equalK
•ticular, as nar-
vas so horrible,
lite loathing and
)f the occasional

lad long resided
rt in November,
noked his pipe,
ich had befallen
errors of starva
:s to ward it oil
Id, his wife, the
id ; his daughtei
manhood, wb
y also perished
with unwearieii
ir leather gar
their brethren
nzied look ilia
e Great Spiril.
rate? No! no
oh ! the wood^

ige, and at tin
[ly lixed on iIh
jconscious ili'
hiduu; for soiii'

OF AN INDIAN.

li'.)

clieadful story not yet told. His father spoke, and he started;
then, having given him a live ember to light his half-emptied pipe,
he relapsed into his steadfast gaze of vacancy.

Not a word, not a gesture, had escaped the aiieuiive ears and
sparkling eyes of some men of his tribe who arrived just as he began
lo speak. Never was man more patiently listdled to; his gilef, or
ibe long pauses which counterfeited it, were not once interrupted,
except by his own wailings : but when he had concluded, a kind
ul hollow muttering arose from the grouped Indians; and the
•ipokesman of their number began a speech, at first in a subdued
lone, and then, gradually elevating his voice with the energy of one
strongly excited, he finished by denouncing him as a murderer and
a cannibal. The accused hesitated a few seconds, mechanically
whifling at his exhausted pipe, — and then, with the most stoical in-
difTerence, calmly denied the chcirge.

But, from that instant, his spirits fell; and the anxious and painful
expression of !:is countenance, whenever his son was absent for a
moment, betrayed the consciousness of guilt. Us could no longer
look his fellow man in the face.

Those who had roused this inward storm kepi aloof, as from a
poisonous reptile; and, having obtained the trilling articles which
(hey wanted from the store, returned to their hunting.

The wretched man lingered about the Fort for some time, and at
ace 0 mi

Length

ipanied by his boy, sulkily

-" Back to the thicket slunk

The guilty serpent "

Hut by a strange infatuation (such arc the mysterious ways of
Providence), instead of seeking some lonely place where he might
liave hid his guJt, and lived unmolested, he went to the lodges ol
the very persons whom he had most cause to avoid, — the men who
iiad branded him as a murderer and cannibal.

He sought their hospitality, and was admitted; but an instinctive
loathing, not unmixed with apprehension, induced them to request
liis departure. After a slight hesitation, he not only refused, but,,
assuming a tone of defiance, uttered such threats that the en-
durance of the Indians was exhausted, and thev shot him on the
spot.

More than one gun having been fired, the boy was also wounded
111 llic arm ; and, thinking (o luiiigato (heir rage, he iled behind a

i»l

ii

j

I ,

ll

I

4 i

'

!

i .

if'

m

(I

J

i

1/1

120

EXEMPLARY CONDUCT OF AKAITCHO.

tree, and offered to confess all he knew, if they would only spare
his life. His wish was granted, and then was told the most sickening
tile of deliberate cannibalism ever heard. The monster had, In
truth, murdered his wife and children, and fed upon their reeking
«;arCi>sses! That the one boy was spared was owing, not to pity or
affection, but to tne accident of their having arrived at the Fort
when they did. Another twenty-four hours would have sealed his
doom also^

CHAPTER VHI.

Kxemplary Conduct of Akaitcho. — Mr. M'Leod and his Family "eave us. — Arri-
val o<' Maufelly. — Supply of Deer-flesh. — Misunderstanf'Ing b' ' *«^ea Akaitcho
and the Interpreter. — Preparation for building two Wm - M'Leod's

ill Succes. — Strange Conduct of two Indians. — Supply o( i .lOt:. — Distressing
Condition of 3Ir. M'Leod. — Return of Mn King's Party. — News froni
York Factory. — Uncertain Fate of Augustus. — Presence of two Ravens, -
Ravens shot by an Iroquois. - • News from England. — Discharge of three Men.
— Alteration of Plans. — Appearance of Birds. — Adventures by Mr. King, -
Arrival of Mr. M'Leod. — Anxiety about Williamson. — Sultry Weather. -
Melancholy Fate of Augustus.

During this appalling period of suffering and calamity, Akaitcho
proved himself the firm friend of the expedition. The dawn of
each morning saw him prepared for the hunt ; and, aware of the
lieavy pressure of that distress which, though he could not alto-
gether avert, it nff'ght be in 'lis power to mitigalc, he boldly <'j
countered every difliculty, and made others act by the force Oi
example.

Complaints were incessantly preferred to him by all classes, young
and old ; and many would have yielded to their gloomy superstitioD,
liad they not been sustained by his language and fortitude. " It is
true," he is reported to have said in answer to one of them, "thai
))0th the Yellow Knives and Chipewyans, whom I look upon as one
nation, have felt the fatal severities of this unusual winter, Alas!
liow many sleep with our fathers ! But the Great Chief 'ists
to us; aud it is better that ten Indians should perish, thc.r ''i
one white man should suffer through our negligence and breach
of faith."

I

DEPARTURE OF MR. ^.i'LEOD.

1-21

lid only spare
aost sickening
onster had, in
their reeking
not to pity oi
ed at the Fort
tave sealed his

ly 'eave ns. — Arri-
g b' ' *"'^ea Akaitcbo
.. M'Leod's

/jOu. — Distressing
rty. — News from
of two Ravens, -
jrge of three Men.
res by Mr. Ring. -
Sultry Weather. -

amity, Akaitcho i
The dawn of
, aware of tlie |
Icould not alto-
he boldly I
Ithe force Ui

|l classes, young I
ly superstition,

[•titude. "It is I
|of them, " thai
)k upon as one
Mnter. Alas'
it Chief lists
t«;sh, th .- ' ■(
he and bitick

Mr.M'lieod's observations at the fishery where he had been were
too unfavourable to give me any confident hope of receiving support
irom that quarter ; and, under these circumstances, it was consola-
tory to me that he approved my decision to make a further reduc-
tion in our establishment. I say consolatory, because that decision
fell particularly heavy on his own family, whom he now offered to
I emove to a place about half vay between us and the Indians, who,
he said, would provide him with meat, as the lake would with
iish, and in this way the separation might be made still further sub-
servient to our benefit. Before we parted, however, his daughter,
a pretty little girl about six years old, took care to remind me, that
1 liad promised, on her father's return, to open the *' botte h fer
blaoc." Accordingly, the treasure was explored ; and she was not
the only one who rejoiced in the sight of a large plum-pudding, to
the merits of which practical testimony was borne by the childi'en
and ourselves at dinner. Nor did we forget to drink the health of
our fair countrywoman 31rs. Maxwell,"* who had so kindly afforded
us this luxurious meal.

Mr. M'Leod, during his absence, had not been exempted from his
share of privation, having been for days together without food ; yet,
nothing daunted by hardships, which he treated as the ordinary in-
cidents of the service, he and his family, with two men, left is on
their cold and comfortless journey, on the 14th of February, about
noon. Nothing but a conviction of the importance of this measure,
us regarded our future plans, should have induced me to consent to
this exposure of children to the severities of so cold a month; but,
as every precaution was adopted to prevent ill consequences, I en-
tained the hope of their getting safely to their destiaation.

The unexpected disasters with which the unhappy beings to the
westward had been visited made me more than commonly anxious
k jny former companion, Maufelly, who, with a small party, had
gone to the south-east, and had been absent now some months.
No intelligence of any kind had been received; and, as they had
promised to be at the Fort in January, if alive, we naturally began
to have gioomy bodings of what might have happened. Happily,
however, we were now relieved from our suspense by the appear-
ance of Maufelly himself, who, with a very melancholy visage, re-
counted the narrow escape they had had. There was not a track

* The \>ife of Capi, Maxwell, with whom we crossed the Atlantic..

vii

\n

llKTUkN OK MAUFELLY.

- k ' 1: t h

of an animal, he said, to be seen, except at a remote part, bordering
on the southern waters of the The-lew, to which his party could noi
go. They had therefore wandered about until weakness and want
had almost killed them, when the sight of some straggling deer sti-
miilatcd them to exertions which were crowned bv success. From
his sorrowful looks, we concluded that he had hardly yet recovered
from his debility ; but, on closer inspection, it was clear that the
rogue was in good case; and, when the necessary time for Indiao
etiquette had expired, he quietly communicated the joyful infor-
mation that he had five deer killed for us, within a couple of days
walk.

This was, indeed, a windfall, and we ventured to think that better
times were coming. Three men were instantly despatched fora.v
much as they could carry of the precious deposit; and as they iefi
">jlv my servant at the Fort, Mr. King drove the dog sledge for
^ V ind I made myself as useful as 1 could. The three men had
neitii^i' snow shoes nor sleighs; and, when they got to the deep
snow filling up the narrow valleys and ravines in the mountains,
they were obliged to scramble across by creeping on their hands
and knees. In this unsatisfactory and fatiguing manner, they neared
the lodge of the Indians; who, as they slipped and sunk into tlie
snow, at every effort to advance, set up loud and merry laughs, but
did not fail, nevertheless, to make them welcome to a kettle of pre-
pared meat when they did at last succeed in getting within their
humble dwelling. For their return they were provided with snow
shoes ; and, having brought part of the meat, we enjoyed with a re
lish which may be imagined the first steak of fresh meat which we
had tasted for three months.

On the 23d of February, a party of our own people also arrived
alter fourteen day's travelling, with a small quantity of half-driej
meat; in their journey for which, they had been three entire da);
without food. They reported the failure of Mr. M'Leod's endea
vours to procure fish at his new station ; but added, that two of llif
best men were going from place to place, until they should be more
successful.

The worst information, however, regarded a misunderstantlins
between Akaitcho and our interpreter, in consequence of which ihe
former, it was said, had declared his intention to cease acting for us
and to dispose of his " hunt" elsewhere. In our prescat exigency,
such a resolution would have been a blow aimed •< ihr vci v lives ol

ILL .SUCCESS OF MR. M'LEOD

\li

part,bortlerin^
party could not
mess and want
ggling deer sti-
success. From
y yet recovered
3 clear that the
time for Indian
le joyful infor-
couple of days

,bink that bettei
espatched iora.v
and as they le[i
I dog sledge for
e three men had
got to the deep
the mountains,
; on their hands
ner, they neared
d sunk into the
lerry laughs, bui
» a kettle of pre-
ing within their
ided with snow
ijoyed with a re-
meat which we

)le also arrived

ty of half-dried

iree entire ila}«

'Leod's endca

that two of llie

Ishould be more

IsunderstantViiii;
be of which ihe |
lie acting for us
tscat exigency.

Lo vci V lives ot

ijiose engaged in the expedition ; at best, it was sure to deprive us
of ihe assistance which 1 had calculated on receiving in the spring,
lor conveying our provision and heavy baggage to the Thlew-ee-
choh; so that, in any view, it would paralyse our efforts and frus-
(rale the interesting object of the undertaking.

Great, however, as was my anxiety, I derived consolation from the
liope that Mr. M'Leod's influence might procure some material mo-
dification of the purpose of the unstable chief, if it failed to restore
him altogether to his former friendly disposition.

The uncertainty of the means of subsistence, and the almost daily
diiiiresses and disappointments by which we were harassed, had in-
terfered with many, and altogether marred some, of my plans; among
Others, the important task of preparing the materials for the con-
struction of two light boats to take us along the coast had been hi-
therto suspended. The time, however, had now arrived when
further delay was impossible. Accordingly, the two carpenters, with
Sinclair (a steersman), were sent to the clump of pines found by De
Charlott in September last, and directed to saw sufficient planking
for the purpose.

Tiie weather having now changed somewhat for the better, a
little provision was occasiona'^y brought from one of the hunters ;
and 1 looked daily for a large supply from Mr. M'Lcod. But, as if
it were destined that matters should not go smoothly, intelligence
was conveyed that far from being able to assist us, he could get
neither fish nor flesh ; and had, as a last resource, been obliged to
transfer the men to the other fishery under the charge of IM'Kay,
lor the preservation of their lives. In performing this journey, the
poor fellows were again lluee days without food. Two young
Indians also came to the Fort about this time, as it appeared to us,
soleiy for ammunition. They saw that our store was empty, and
must have understood our distress; but to our repeated questions
as to their success, they uniformly answered with apparent indiffe-
rence, " Elthen oolah," — there are no deer. Having been pro-
vided with what they required, they were dismissed, and requested
lo be alert in hunting; but still they answered, "Etthen oolah —
laiioutai;"* and with the most stoical composui'e lounged about the
house, or lolled before the lire for full two days, receiving merely
Mich scraps of food as we could spare them. It so happened thai

■ " 'ritn'c an no dfcr."

l?A

SUPPLY OF FOOD.

at the end of that time, Maufelly arrived with a load of meat, which
the others no sooner saw, than they drew out fifteen tongues ikoni
a bag hitherto concealed, and placed them on the table withont any
remark, though we passed and repassed several times. The con-
clusion was, that they had as many deer in cache, and only wanted
bomcbody to fetch them. When taxed with the folly of their
conduct in so serious a case as ours, they answered carelessly that
it was their custom, and still cried " Elthen oolah — etthen lahoutai."
Hoping that there was now a probability of our obtaining regular
supplies from the two parties, I was less fearful of increasing my
party, and directed four men to come immediately from the fishery,
and assist in sledging the meat to the house. The deer were accord-
iugly brought; yet before this welcome labour was completed,!
had the mortification of receiving from the Indians on whom I had
mainly depended, the unwelcome tidings that the animals had again
dispersed they knew not whither, but that they would give us notice
us soon as they had any thing to send.

March 13th. — The men, who had been latterly subsisting on a
single fish a day, arrived according to their instructions; and that
there might be no leisure for brooding over their privations, I sent
Mr. King with the whole of them, including those at the house, lo
drag the iron work, together with such planking as the carpenters
might have ready, to a bay on the western borders of Artillerv
Lake, where I intended the boats to be built.

This was occupation for four or five days, and in the meantime
1 fervently hoped that some favourable change might take place
3\or in this instance was I deceived ; for no sooner had we enjoyed
the calm consolation of divine service on the following Sunday,
than the yelping of a dog too weak to do any thing else notified
the approach of strange feet, and I was met at the hall door by the
old Camarade de Mandeville. Accustomed to see the Indians
empty-handed, it never occurred to me to inquire if he had brought
any thing; and after the usual bon jour, which these people have
learned from the Canadians, I proceeded to explain the reason why
he found me alone. " You have no provision, then," said he;
'' tiens ! the dogs are eating it ;" and opening the door, to my great
surprise and no less joy, he pointed to an Indian youth, who was
leaning on his gun, and looking at two sledges of dried meat wbicti
the Camarade and he had dragged from their lodges, five days
journey distant.

VNCERTAIN FATE OF AlGrsTl'S

1*25

of meal, which
n tongues ikom
ble withont any
nes. The con-
nd only wanted
; folly of their
, carelessly that
itthen tahoulai."
btaining regular
t increasing my
Tom the fishery,
;er were accord-
las completed,!
on whom 1 had
limals had again
lid give us notice

J subsisting on a
jctions ; and thai
privations, I sent
at the house, to
s the carpenters
ders of Arlillerj V

in the meantime!
light take place
[had we enjoyed I
[lowing Sunday,!
fng else notified
Ihall door by the
^ee the Indians
I he had broug
Bse people have
[the reason why
llhen," said he;
lor, to my great I
jouth, who was
lied meat which
Iges, five days

The following day I received a further supply from Mr. JVI'Leod,
(hough with the painful intelligence that he with his family were
surrounded by difficulties, privations, and deaths. Six more na-
tives of either sex had sunk under the horrors of starvation, the nets
had failed, and Akaitcho, on whom he relied (for the old chief had
forgotten his hasty expressions and was still faithful), was twelvo
days' march away. Distant, however, as he was, Akaitcho had ma-
naged to despatch some of the strongest young hunters with a sup-
ply of meat, and it was a part of this which was now forwarded to
Rie. IMr. M'Leod's situation was one of great embarrassment. I
prevailed on him therefore to sacrifice the comfort of being with
his family, and to send them to Fort Resolution, to break up the
fishery for the present, and stimulate the Indians to further exertion
by keeping constantly near them.

March 18th. — Mr. King and his party returned from Artillery
Lake, where the requisite articles had been deposited, and the car-
penters had begun the boats. On the 26th a person arrived late
in the evening with the packet from York Factory, which we had
been expecting daily for the last six weeks. The happiness which
this announcement instantly created can be appreciated by those
only who, like us, have been outside the pale of civilisation, and
felt the blessing of communication with their friends but once
through a long twelvemonth. Yet so true is it that

" Man never is but ahvays to be blest,"

that before we had timetocongratulateeachother,our joy was almost
fumed into sorrow. The bearer, on delivering the packet, added, that
he believed he had brought only half; that the remainder had been
sent from Fort Resolution upwards of a month ago, under the charge
of two men, a Canadian and an Iroquois; that these had been ac-
companied by my old companion Augustus, the Esquimaux inter-
preter, who no sooner heard that I was in the country than he
expressed his determination to join me, and had actually walked from
Hudson's Bay with that affectionate intention; that the three men,
having no language in common, were unable to convey their senti-
ments to each other; and that having lost their w'ay, two of them,
after an absence of eighteen days, found their way back to the fort ;
but without Augustus, who they declared persisted, in spite of their
entreaties, in his forlorn search. On ope> *ng ray letters I found
this account but too true, and moreover th. . the brave little fellow

il

.It'f

m

(

■ -^v^

' ) i « ,,

ill i ' ^ '

m

i'la

I'KESKNi-li (U- TWO ItAVENS.

Iiad with him, when they parted, only ten pounds ofpemmican, and
neither gun nor how and arrows.

Three days after the arrival of this sad news, the other part of thp
packet was brought by one of my former men, wIjo had been guid-
ed by an Indian ; and I then learned from Mr. M'Doncll, the gentle
man in charge of Fort Resolution, that on the arrival of the Cana-
dian and Iroquois without Augustus, he had the same day despatched
two more Iroquois with plenty of provision, and instructions to fol-
low the same track, search for Augustus, and, if found, conduct
him to us. But strange to say, after a similar lapse of time, viz,
eighteen days, these two men also made their appearance at tlif
Fort; and Mr. M'Donell had the raortilication to hear that they, like
the first, had got bewildered, and having exhausted their provisions
were compelled to explore their way back. An Indian, who hap-
pened to be with him at the time, was engaged as a guide to tlip
present bearer; and he added, "I hope the packet will reach yoii
safe at last. As no one has come hither from you, I apprehend
that poor Augustus has been starved to death." There was, indeed,
every reason to fear the worst; but the account of his companions,
that they had heard the report of two or three guns in the direction
of the place where they had left him, afforded me a feeble hope
that he might have fallen in with some party, and be yet alive. As
far as was in my power I circulated the fact among the Indians,
though they were unfortunately far away, and held out an unli-
mited reward to any who should find and save him. The readv
zeal with which Augustus had volunteered to partake the hard for-
tunes of the service, his attachment and generous devotion to my-
self, and the probability that his recompence had been a shocking
and untimely death, impressed me with a melancholy that for some
time fixed deeply in my mind.

By letters from York Factory, we were informed that the Com-
pany's two ships were forced to winter in the bay; — one at Churc-
hill, and the other at Charlton Island, — owing, as was said, to the
vast quantity of drift ice which blocked up Hudson's Straits, and cui
off all communication with the Atlantic. But I was requested to be
under no uneasiness as regarded the expedition, since the letters for
England were to be sent by Canada, and all my demands would be
punctually attended to.

April 20th. — For the last fifteen days our habitation had been
rendered more cheerful by the presence of two ravens, which having.

Iro

my

kill

per

lav

out,

^oer

lau^

and

(ifsi

iiig\

■ A;

Chin

pers(

>peci

were

' niissii

' iioiin(

despa

lell m

|(er,ai

God!'

return

the ac

with li

but th(

feeling

oonfin

long-l(

Garry,

Ameri(

llie po

ty a gi

be red a

NKWS I'KOAl K\(iJ,AM)

127

nnmican, and

ler part of the
lad been guid-
3II, the gentle-
1 of the Cana-
ay despatched
uclions to fol-
)und, conduct
;e of time, viz.
earance at the
[• that they, like
heir provisions
dian, who hap-
a guide to tlif
will reach yon
u, I apprehcDil
re was, indeed,
lis conipanions.
in the direction
e a feeble hope
yet aUve. As
g the Indians,
lid out an unli-
The ready
e the hard for-
levotiori to my-
een a shocking
y that for some

that the Cora-
-one at Churc-
vas said, to tlie

IStraits, andcui
requested to be

le the letters for
lands would be

jtation had been
1, which having.

Iiv my express ilirection.s, been left nriniolestcd, had broomc so tamo
IS scarcely to move ten paces when any one passed thcin; they were
ihe only living things that held communion with ns, and it was a
pleasure to see them gambol in their glossy plumage on the white

MlOW.

A parly of men had arrived over night, and amongst them an
Iroquois, who, perceiving the birds together, and being ignorant of
my wishes, could not resist the temptation of a double shot, and so
killed them both. In any other situation, such an event would,
perhaps, have seemed too trilling to be noticed ; but in our case, the
ravens were the only link between us and the dreary solitude with-
out, and their loss therefore was painfully felt. Moreover, there
>eemed a sort of treachery in the act, for the poor biids had been
taught to look upon us as friends : their petty thefts were licensed;
iind their sharp croaking was welcome, as breaking the monotonv
of silence. When they were gone, 1 fell more lonely, and the moan-
ing wind seemed as if complaining of the barbarity.

April 25th. — This was the anniversary of our departure from La

Chine. We were talking for about the hundredth time of liiosekind

persons who had come so far to see us away, and had begun to

^peculate on their different occupations at that very hour, w hen we

were interrupted by a sharp and loud knock at the door. The per-

p mission to come in was unnecessary, for the person followed the an-

^Miouncement before the words could be utteiod, and with the same

despatch thrust into my hands a packet, whioh a glance sufficed in

leli me was from England. " He is returned, sir !" said the messen-

|(cr,aswe looked at him with surprise. "W^hat! Augustus? — thank

(iod!" I replied quickly. "Captain Ross, sir — Captain Ross is

returned." "Eh! are you quite sure? is there no error? where is

the account from?" The man paused, looked at me, and pointing

^vith his linger said, " You have it in your hand, sir." It was so ;

but the packet had been forgotten in the excitement and hurry of my

feelings. Two open extracts from the Times and iMorning Herald

confirmed the tidings ; and my official letter, with others from the

long-lost adventurers themselves — from Captain IMaconochie, Mr.

Garry, Governor Simpson, and many other friends, English and

American, removed all possible doubt, and evinced at the same time

I the powerful interest which the event had awakened in the public,

[by a great proportion of whom the party had long since been num-

[bered among the dead. To me the intelligence was peculiarly gra-

IM

DISCHARGE OF THREE MEN.

lifying, not only as verifying my previously expressed opinions, but
as demonstrating the wisdom as well as the humanity of the course
pursued by the promoters of our expedition, who had thereby res
cued the British nation from an imputation of indifference which it
was far indeed from meriting. In the fulness of our hearts, we as
sembled together, and humbly offered up our thanks to that merci-
ful Providence, which in the beautiful language of Scripture hath
said, " Mine own will I bring again, as I did sometime from the dce|)$
of the sea."* The thought of so wonderful a preservation overpow-
ered for a time the common occurrences of life. We had bu; just
sat down to breakfast; but our appetite was gone, and the day was
passed in a feverish state of excitement. Seldom, indeed, did my
friend Mr. King or I indulge in a libation, but on this joyful occasion
economy was forgotten ; a treat was given to the men, and for our
selves the social sympathies were quickened by a generous bowl of
punch.

May 5th. — David Williamson of the Royal Artillery and Iwn
other men were discharged from the service; the former on acsountof
continued ill health, and the latter at their own solicitation. By
them were forwarded letters for England. W^e had now a smart
thaw ; and patches of green, as well as projecting parts of rocks,
were daily becoming visible. Shorty afterwards a letter arrived
from Mr. M'Leod, containing information, which I had some time
anticipated, of the total failure of Akaitcho and his party to collect
provision — as well as a hint that the chief had been tampered with,
and allowed a part of bis hunt to go in another direction. The
fact that a portion of the meat had been so diverted was substan-
tiated, and laid to the charge of a free-man ; but the quantity taken
by him was too inconsiderable to be of any consequence, and afford-
ed merely a pretext for Akaitcho, to cover some little infidelities of
which, I fear, he had been guilty. A month before, such intelh-
gence would have caused the bitterest sorrow ; but now, when I
knew of Captain Ross's safety, it was comparatively of Httle moment;
and I determined at once on going, with one boat instead of txco,
along the coast, selecting the best men for my crew. This, in fact,
was the only means left by which I could execute my instructions,
and discharge the duty that I owed to the public ; for though the en-
thusiasm that had before animated us was now of course mucb

* Psal. 66.

APPEARANCE OF BIRDS.

1-20

opinions, but

of the course

thereby res
ence which it
hearts, we as
to that merci-
Jcripture hath
Tom the (IcejK
tion overpow-
/e had bul just
id the day was
indeed, did my
joyful occasion
n, and for our
nerous bowl of

[illery and twn
ler on account of
soUcitation. By
ad now a smart |
; parts of rocl(s, |
letter arrived
had sometime'
party to collect I
tampered will),
[direction. The]
ed was substan-
le quantity taken I
mce, and afford-
.tleinftdehliesot|
re. such intelli-
it now, when 1
if little moment;!
instead of t\co\
This, in fact,
Imy instructions,!
•r though the en I
of course much!

abated, it still set with a strong, because concentrated, stream, to-
wards the region of discovery. The provision that we had still in
reserve was, or could be made, equal to the expenditure of three
months for ten persons. The smallness of the party would be more
than compensated by the characters of the individuals who composed
it — every man in himself a host — experienced vojiaf/curs, good
hunters, equal to the most trying situations. There was, therefore,
no rational ground for apprehension that we should be unable to
surmount the obstacles of the voyage, though cooped within the nar-
row space of a solitary boat on the inhospitable waters of the Arctic
sea. The people were regularly employed in dragging the pem-
mican and baggage to Artillery Lake, whc the carpenters had
already iinished one and half completed the other boat ; for though
the original plan was relinquished, the second boat, it was thought,
would be highly serviceable in enabling Mr. J^l'Leod to fulfil the
instructions which it was my intention to leave for his guidance
during our absence. And I now wrote to him, to engage as many
voung Indians as would undertake to carry a bag (or 90 lbs.) of
pemmican each to the Thlew-ee-choh, in direct distance one hundred
and fifteen miles.

On the 13th of May, a single goose, the harbinger of summer,
flew past the house; and during the day it was followed by five
more, all of which took a northerly direction. This was six days
later than they had been seen in 1826 at Fort Franklin, though a
higher northern latitude. A fly and a flock of small birds appeared
in the evening; and during the three sucecding days we had gulls,
orioles, grossbeaks, yellow legs, robins, and butterflies.

A small swamp behind the house was the resort of two or three
kinds of ducks, some of which were occasionally got by Mr. King,
who was a daily visitor amongst them. On one occasion, just as
he had hit his bird, his attention was attracted by some more in an
adjacent pool ; so, without staying to pick up his game, he crept
towards the others, and as he thought disabled a fine drake. Eager
to bag it, he waded into the water, when he was startled by a sharp
whizzing noise over his head. This, he soon perceived, was caused
by a large white-headed eagle, which was descending with the
rapidity of lightning towards the precise spot where lay the duck
he had before hit. Impelled by the desire as once to secure the
bird for dinner, and if possible to get a shot at the eagle also, he
instantly left the wounded drake, and, sans culottes, flew with all

y

'r

tf'

i:iu

ARRIVAL 01" MR. MLEOI).

hpeed o\ei patches of hard snow, dashing through the swamp, imd
arriving just in time to sec the powerful marauder quietly sweep oil.
exactly out of the reach of shot, with the duck Hrmly grasped in
\\A ♦.'lions.

Having watched it out of sight, he then retraced his steps ; and
leaving his gun in a dry place, betook himself to the aquatic chase
of the drake, which, far from being fluttered or alarmed, remained
motionless, as if waiting to be taken up. Still, as he neared, it glided
easily away through innumerable little nooks and windings, with ull
the confidence of a bi nch pilot. Several times he extended his arm
to catch it; and having at last, with great pa'ience, managed to coop
it in a corner, from which there appeared to be no escape, he was
triumphantly bending down to take it (gently, however, as he wished
to preserve it for a specimen), when, to his utter astonishment, after
two or tree flounders, it looked round, cried " quack," and then Hew
off so strongly that he was convinced he had never hit it all. The
object of the drake had clearly been to draw Mr. King away from its
companion, of whose fate it was unconscious; indeed, so attached
are these birds at certain seasons, that it is no unco -non circum-
stance, when one has been shot, for the other, es\ 'y the male,
to linger about its struggling partner, exhibiting the greatest distress,
until either killed or frightened away. Sometimes in such cases they
will dive to avoid the shot, but refuse to lly ; as in an instance wherf
one remained to be fired at no less than live times.

On the i8th May, the catkins of the willows were half an inch
long, and the snow was fast disappearing from the ground. On the
25th we also welcomed the arrival of our companion Mr. M'Leod,
whose indefatigable endeavours to realize the expectations held oui
by the Indians of procuring deer, as the warm weather increased.
haa been grievously disappointed. He had found his hunters indeed
as wretchedly off as could be imagined ; so that the winter termi-
nated as it had commenced. Bad as this was, the serious apprehen-
sion which he raised in my mind about the fate of David Williamson,
the artillery-man, who had been so lately discharged, was infinitely
worse. It appeared that he had left the fishery with his companions,
and two Indians as guides; but, being a slow walker and much en-
cumbered with useless baggage of his own, he had one day set out
first, the route being quite straight; while the others, knowing that
they could easily overtake him, had loitered in their encampment,
perhaps an hour alter his departure. Aware of his eccentricity, they

HULTKY WEATIItU

r.:i

swamp, nnd
tly sweep oil.
y grasped in

is steps ; and
aquatic chase
led, remained
larcd, it glided
clings, with all
ended his arm
maged to cooj)
jscape, he was
r, as he wished
lishment, after
' and then flew
hit it all. The
; away from its
ed, so attached
-non circum-
'y the male.
;reatest distress,
such cases they
instance where

were not alarnjcd at not seeing him lor the better part of the day ;
hill as the evening drew in, their fears were excited, and one of the
Indians retraced his way, in order to be quite sure that he was not
behind among the islands. Ilis search was fruitless, and he very
jiroperly returned with the information to the fishery. !Mr. M'Leod
lost not a uu)ment in selecting another Indian to accompany the same
person, directing them to use the utmost vigilance, and holding out
the promise of a considerable reward to whoever should find him.
Wilh such an inducement, it was not likely they would leave any
part unexamined :, and, accordingly, after an absence of three or
lour days, they returned to the fishery with (he assurance that he
had not stopped between their last encampment and the islands,
(Voin which the traverse is made to the south shore; on the cou-
liary, they concluded that he had crossed over, and tnade the best
of his way to Fort Resolution. For my own part I much doubted
ihis; but, at all e\ nts, it was consolatory to know that he had a
compass, and was nut destitute of provision.

Towards the end of the month, the weather became sultry, the
temperature in the sun being I0()°; an extracu'dinary contrast to that
(d'lhe 17th January, when it was 70" belrw zero. The snow was
all gone, except that which had been drifted to a great depth in the
narrovvvalleys, and imder steep precipices; and the Al-hel-dessy.
In the westward, had burst its icy fetters, and opened a clear channel
to the portage opposite the house : loons, gulls, and ducks took pos
session of the water, and seemed to contend which should uuike the
most noise; some small birds also, very prettily marked, hovered
about a short time, and then both they and tlu; ducks suddenly de-
serted us. Akaitcho and thirty of his tribe arrived, empty-handed,
and were followed by a couple of young Chipewyans, who brought
a little dry meat from the Yellow Knife River, where one of their
party had died from want.

On the 3d June, the whole of the men came in from the fishery,
and brought with them the melancholy tidings, that the Indians had
Iteen at Fort Resolution without hearing anything about poor Wil-
liamson, who, it was now conjectured, must have got bewildeied
I among the islands away from the track, or met with some accident
p so as to incapacitate him from making a fire, and thereby indicating
his situation. The remains of Augustus also had been discovered
not far from the Riviere a .leia. It appeared that the gallant little
fellow was retracing his steps to the establishment, when, either

«t)i

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE.

exhausted by 9v>fi^cping and privation, or caught in the midst oi° an
open IraversiB *ni one of those terrible snow storms which may be
almost said to blow through the frame, he had sunk to rise no more
Such was the miserable end of poor Augustus! — a faithful, disin-
terested, kind-hearted creature, who had won the regard not ol
myself qijW, but } may add of Sir John Franklin and Dr. Richard-
sdn also, by''qualities, which, wherever found, in the lowest as in
the highest forms of social life, are the ornament and charm ol
humanity.

These were not very cheering auspices for the eve of our de-
parture; but past griefs must yield to present necessities, and the
sharpness of the feeling gradually wore off untioi the pressure ol
mental and bodily occupation. By the 5th June, I had got Mr
M'Leod, the Indians, and all the men but three, from the Fort. It
was arranged that the former, with a chosen party, should preced •
us to hunt, and should make caches of meat along the line of roule
so as to save the pemmican; while the other Indians, with part ol
the men, should assist in dragging the baggage. One Indian was
left with us as a guide; but his friends were scarcely out of ?iglii
when he began deliKprately to pack up, with the intention of fol
lowing them. This caprice (lor he had remained voluntarily) wa*
owing, it seemed, to disir'jst of the constancy of his young wife
who was somewhere to the north ; and it was only by threatenin:!
to discharge him altogether from the service, that I could prevu'loii
him to stay. We had in vain tried every alhirement to induce samp
Indian family to remain and take care of the e^taMishment during
the absence of Mr. M'Leod : no temptation was strong enough lu
entice the poorest among them to accept of so dangerous a trust;
all agreeing that it would be impossible to procure a livelihood there
at this season of the year. ISo more convincing proof can be given
of the wretched poverty of the country ; for the people will suflii
any privation short of death to obtain thoir favourite tobacco, am
munition, and clothing ; and as 't is acknowledged that an Indian
can live where a wolf would starve, the neighbourhood of our resi
dencemust be a miserable spot indeed. I was consequently obliged
(0 trust to chance for the safely of the papers containing the obser
vations, journal, drawings, and survey. A platform was erecteil
in the hall, on which the remainder of our stores were deposited,
and carefully securet' against wet, and marauding wolvereeii;^
Some things were lowered into a cellar, the opening of nhicii

REFLECTIONS.

i»;i

e midst ol' ati
f/\\\ch may be
) rise no more,
lithful, disin-
regard not ol
1 Dr. Richard-
lie lowest as in
and charm ol

ve of our de-

sities, and the
he pressure ol
1 had got Ml
n the Fort. It
should precedi-
le line of route,
IS, with pari ol
)ne Indian was
sly out of siglil
ntention of fol
/oluntarily) wa^
his young wife
by threatening
lould previ.'! on
to induce some
ishment during
cng enough iv
gerous a trust;
livelihood there
|of can be given
lople will siiflt'i
tobacco, am
that an Indian
od of our resi
uently obligeil
ling the obscr
m was erecteil
ere deposited,
g wolvereens
Ining of ^yhicii

closed and nailed dowt

Th

bo>

iled

strongei

a heap, and covered with a tarpaulin ; and a very small quantity of
brandy, which we were unable to take, though not unwilling, had
economy permitted, to drink, was buried "full fathom live" — then,
and not till then, being considered safe from biped or quadruped,
Indian or bear.

It now only remained to block up the windows and doors; which
done, the four person^^ remaining with me, including the guide,
were laden with burdens of ninety pounds each, and tv^ dogs,
equipped with saddle bags, carrying meat for the journey ; and thus
apjjointed, I left Fort Reliance, accompanied by Mr. King, a little
|)asl noon of the 7th June.

CHAPTER IX.

Rflli'tlioiis. — Halt for the Night. — March resumed. — Obstacles encountered.

— The Boats finished. — Eastern Shore of Artillery Lake. — Pursue the Tr.-^ck
of Mr. M'Leod. — Two Deer shot. — Stunted Pines. — Encampment. — Dif-
(iculty in tracing our Route. — News from Mr. M'Leod. — A Snow Storm. —
Fires lighted on the Hills. — Accident to Peter Taylor. — Deviate from our
Course. — Accident to James Spence. — Boisterous Weather. — Plunder of a
Cache. — Find the runaway Guides. — The Ice unsafe. — Enter upon Lake
Aylmer. — A dense Fog. — Sand-hill Bay. — Judicial Investigation. — Animals.

— Musk-ox Rapid. — Join Mr. M'Leod. — Survey of the River. — Indians
return with the Pemmican. — Stock of Provisions. - An Indian Belle. — A
Reindeer Hunt.

There is something exciting in the first start even upon an 'u-
dinary journey. The bustle of preparation- the act of departing,
which seems like a decided step taken — tt e prospect of change,
and consequent stretching out of the imagination — have at all times
the effect of stirring the blood, and giving a quicker motion to the
spirits. It may be conceived then with what sensations I set forth
on my journey into the Arctic wilderness. I had escaped from the
wretchedness of a dreary ant' disastrous winter — from scones and
tales of suffering and death — froni wearisome inaction and mono-
tony— from disappointment .:nd heart-sickening care. Before me
were novelty and enterprise ; hope, curiosity, and llie love of

J>^ .

■pp

i;<4

HALT I'OR THE NKiHT,

! !«ii

advcatuie were my companions; and even the prospect of difli
culties and dangers to be encountered, with the responsibility in-
separable from command, instead of damping rather heightened the
enjoyment of the moment. In turning my back on the Fort, I felt
my breast lightened, and my spirit, as it were, set free again; and
with a quick step, Mr. King and 1 (for my companion seemed lo
share in the feeUng) went on our way rejoicing.

Taking a northerly direction through the woods, we soon got
into a succession of swamps; then ascended steep rocks; and sub-
sequently gained a sight of the Ah-hel-dessy, which seemed in
that part to b»: navigable, though, from the noise, it was certain
that a heavy fall was not far distant. We passed many sand-hills,
variegated by the arbutus plant, called, as I have elsewhere said,
by the traders " sac a commis," cranberry and crowberry. These
hills were generally hemmed in by broken cliifs of red felspar and
barren granitic rocks, with here and there thick masses of snow
filling up their chasms, or sloping from the lower parts of vertical
precipices. A few old tracks of deer were seen near them.

The oppressive sultriness of the weather having aflected my ser
vant so much that he was unable to proceed, we halted ; and as we
had no tent, we took up a position for the night on a smooth carpei
of reindeer moss, under the thick and spreading branches of a tall
pine. A few willows growing round the margin of the small lakes
we had passed were not so forward as those at the house, though
the latter, probably nipped by the north-east winds which had lat-
terly prevailed, had made little progress in the shooting of the catkins;
indeed, one flower only had blown, and the green buds of the dwaii
birch were but just perceptible. Whether this was owing to the ac-
cidental lateness of the seasoL^ or to poverty of soil, I cannot take upon
me to determine; but it may not be out of place to mention, that some
cress sown in a box, in the best earth that could be found, never came
to perfection, at least in three weeks' trial, though it was carefully
kept in a warm room at night, and exposed to the sun during the day
The only green observed along our route was in the arbutus and the
younger lirs; all besides wore the sombre brown of an advanceii
autumn. A smart fall of rain in the night reminded us that we
were out of our rooms ; and this, or, it may be, the excitement of
getting away, banished sleep from my eyes. Nevertheless, I en-
deavoured to cheat myself, by fancying drowsiness; and had just
arrived at the falling-oil point, — a kmd of misty hulf-conscionsncss

m

RESsUMfc; OUll MARCH.

i:)r>

-when a white partridge came burring within five paces of us,
and rang such an alarum that no fever than three heads were si-
multaneously popped up, ♦ ^ discover the cause of this unwelcome
disturbance.

Our march was resumed at H o'clock of the following morning
by descending one side and scrambling up the other of a very deep
ravine, thickly interlaced with underwood, through which we had
much trouble to get our dogs; but a greater misfortune was the
weakness of my servant Malley, which by 6 o'clock had increased
so much as to oblige him to stop altogether. Believing that his in-
disposition was attributable to confinement and sedentary occupa-
tions at the Fort during the winter, and that a few days would re-
store him, I requested Mr. King and one of the men to stay with
him, using their discretion in coming forward; while I, with the
Indian and the remaining man, pushed on as quickly as possible to
Artillery Lake.

Our way lay through swamps, covered with what the Indians
4all women's heads, which are round hummocks of moss- covered
earth, the bases of which are reduced by the action of the surround
ii)g water to about one third of the diameter of their surface, yet
strong enough, owing to the fibrous roots which they contain, to
keep upright; being, in short, something like a large mushroom. In
crossing the sloppy swamp, the traveller is tempted, by theii dry
appearance, to step upon them; but, ui -. he tread exactly on the
eentre, which is a matter of nice judgment an<l calculation, they in-
variably fall over, and down he tumbles, or f;el.«> ■>>' awkward twist;
in either case plunging up to the knees, or deeper, intt the swamp.
My Indian was caught twice, and called out"Sass" (Bear;, thr
well-known expression of his tribe when not inclined to bo over
gentle.

•Vcclivitous rocks intervened between the swamps; and in going
over their summits, the Ah-hel-dessy was frequently seen working
its rapid coarse along the base of the mountain range, which souie-
times assumed the wildest character. The space from the spot
where I had left the small canoe last year to the first rapid out of
Artillery Lake was quite open, and immense quantities of ice were
floating down the stream. The temperature was full ten degrees
eolder than at the house; large masses of ice and snow encumbered
ihe banks or borders ol the rocks; and the ice on the lake had not

Ji

m

\

1 't -

13ti

THE BOATS FINISHED.

decayed nearly so much as was observed at the same seasoii of the
year in i»2l at Point Lake, more than two degrees to the north.

Tracks of deer were visible at different points ; and leading froni
these tracks the Indians had placed rows of moss on the ice, to
keep the timid animals in a particular direction. In the eveninii
we reached the bay, and found that the carp(>nters had just com-
pleted the boats, which, considering the knotty and indifferent
material of which they were constructed, did much credit to the
builders. They were precisely such as I required ; being sharp at
both ends, with good beam, and plenty of floor for stowage: my
only apprehension was that they were weak. The one selected
for the voyage was thirty feet over all, and twenty-four feet keel :
extra oars, masts, tiller, etc. were prepared, and the bottom of the
boat was paid over with a coating of tar. I ought to mention, also,
that in conformity with my directions, the lower part was carvel,
and the upper part clinkerbuilt ; for as the carpenters were neither
of them strong enough to be included, however desirable it might
have been, in the number of my picked crew for the expedition to
the sea, I thought that, in case of accident, the former construction
would be repaired more easily, and with less loss of time, than the
latter. It had, besides, this advantage, that there were no over-
lapping edges, which might catch against the stones in the rapids.

My first care was to despatch three smart men to assist in bring-
ing up Malley ; and at 4 p. m, the following day, the whole party
arrived with Mr. King, who reported that his patient would be
unable to perform any duty for several days; a circumstance un-
toward enough, when every man was required to drag forward his
allotted proportion of baggage. Mr. M'Leod had left only two
days before ; and, on examining what pieces he had taken, I was
rather chagrined to fin ' that what reiiained was more than coulJ
be conveniently carried by us at '~je trip; and as the arrangements
had been dtfinitive, thero ,vas no alternative but to make two,
which was, in other words, trebling the distance. The evening was
passed in getting everything ready for our departure, and to each ol
the eight men who were to compose the boat's crew were given a
new gun, powder-horn, etc.

th an(>'her Indian, had been selected

My

•felly,

to show us the nearest cuts, and now promised to hunt a little a-
head of us. Accordingly, at 3. 30 a. m. of the lOlh of June, the

ii>r

DISPOSITION OF THE BOATS.

137

season of the
the north,
leading from
1 the ice, to
I the evenint;
ad just com-
id indifferent
credit to the
leing sharp at
stowage: my
! one selected
our feet keel :
bottom of the
mention, also,
irt was carvel,
5 were neither
irable it might
B expedition to
»r construction
time, than the
were no over-
n the rapids,
issist in bring-
e whole party
lent would be
umstauce un-
5 forward his
eft only two
taken, I was
»re than could
arrangements
o make two,
evening was
md to each ot
were given a

been selected

Int a little a-

of June, the

larger boat was dragged about three quarters of a mile through a
half-dry swamp, and over some rocks to Artillery Lake, where she
was placed firmly on runners plated with iron, and drawn over the
ice by two men and six line dogs. The smaller boat as launched
into a pool, where she would be quite safe until required in the
autumn. By 8 a. m. each man had his runner laden with some-
thing less than a hundred pounds weight ; when leaving Mr. King
10 superintend the transport of what yet remained, 1 took the party
lorward, intending to send them back so soon as we had attained the
appointed distance ; which, for the accomplishment of my object,
would not be less than from six to nine miles. The scene was
new to-every one but myself, and I took care to encourage the
mirth which the grotesque and awkward attitudes of slipping people
continually excited. The runners appeared to slide easily, and for
hair an hour a brisk pace was kept up. By degrees, however, it
slackened, on account of the badness of the ice, which was literally
a bed of angular spikes, of many shapes and sizes, but all so sharp
as to make mere walking a most painful and laborious operation.
From the same cause the runners were also peeled, or otherwise
much injured ; and it was easy to foresee their speedy destruction,
unless timely measures were adopted to prevent it. Iron seemed
lo be the only effectual defence, but we had none left, except one
large saw, which it was thought might answer, if the carpenters
I'ould manage to cut it into the proper breadths and lengths.

Our prospect of reaching the portage of theThlew-ee-choh on the
ice depended entirely on the soundness of our tackle, and this early
assault on the wood showed me the necessity of devising some
method of protecting it, either with the saw, or, failing that, with
reindeer horn, bones, or binders of birch. We halted, consequently,
at the end of six miles ; and the people, after a couple of hours'
rest, returned to Mr. King, who was desired to set the carpenters
immediately to work about the saw, and to join me as soon as con-
venient with the rest of our provision. This, indeed, made the
hulk of our baggage ; for in services like this only a very limited
wardrobe can be allowed : and having set the example of taking
only one change of linen, flannels, and a few pair of moccassins for
my own use, the others were, of course, obliged to submit to a cor-
respondent limitation.

The eastern shore of Artillery Lake, which we now followed,
\\;>s less rocky than its opposite, being composed principally of

1»8

FOLLOW THE TRACK OF MR. M LEOD.

<

smooth rounded hills, covered with verdure and large stones, many
of which were ranged on the summits, presenting a bold contrast
to the yellow sky behind. During the night the thermometer fell
to 28^*; and in the morning (June 11 th) 1 took a stroll with niy
gun, with the double object of procuring, if possible, a change ol
food, and observing what eflfect the early sun would have upon the
ice. In the first, I failed ; but as to the second, I succeeded in con-
vincing myself that it would be injurious to the men, and very soon
knock up the dogs, to persist in travelling through the heat of the
day ; and that it would be better, therefore, to reverse the order ol
marching and rest, and to take advantage of the fresh air of the
night. In the afternoon Mr. King and his party arrived, having
succeeded in converting the pit saw to the purpose required. All
were immediately at work in shoeing their respective runner!) ;
after which, having rested until 9 p. m., we started again.

To husband the pemmican, which, from the want of other pro-
vision, was already in consumption, I was desirous of following, as
nearly as possible, the track of Mr. M'Leod, who had been instructed
to put conspicuous marks wherever he had made a cache for iis.
But, as this would necessarily lead us round all the bays of (lie
main shore, and greatly increase the distance and fatigue of tlit
journey, I determined on undertaking it myself, with one man si
lected for the purpose, »leaving directions with Mr. King to proceed
with the boat, &c. in a straight line from point to point, until he
should see signals to guide him to the caches, or to encamp. Tin
air was keen, even to freezing; the ice hard, and galling to the feel
Indeed, the sensation was like that of treading on sharp palisades:
butthe runners now slipt smoothly over it, and opposed considerably
less resistance to the men, who began to talk of carrying heavier
loads, so as to avoid the fatigue of returning for the baggage Icli
behind at every encampment. The land had a uniform and unin
(cresting outline, with here and there a dark clump of pines, thouf;li
these began now to be less frequent. After four hours' brisk walkinj;
in the night, — but not in the dark, for it was quite light all the time
— we stopped at the mouth of a small river, the banks of which ii
was thought might produce a little wood ; and on inspecting soinf
recent marks, the place was found to have been an encampment ni
Mr. M'Leod. The sun rose at 2. 15' a. m. due north bv comi^ass
The boat arrived safely, but somehow or other the men had con
trived to break the runner; so having harnessed the dogs to singl'

EVENTS WHICH BEFALL I'S.

r.w

stones, many
bold contraM
rmometei- fell
troll with my
', a change ol
nave upon the
ceeded in con-
and very soon
he heat of the
se the order ol
esh air of the
rrived, havini;
required. All
ctive runners;
gain.

it of other pro-
of following, as
been instructed
a cache for us.
the bays of tlie
d fatigue oftlu
th one man si
ing to proceed
point, until he
encamp. Tin
llling to the feel
harp palisades;
ied considerably
vrying heaviei
,he baggage leli
form and uniii
f pines, thougli
s' brisk walking
ht all the time. I
nks of which ii
[inspecting soinf
encampment oi
Ih by com;^ai^
men had coi>
Ic dogs to singit

sledges, they were despatched to the carpenters with orders to take
the present and only opportunity of supplying themselves with what
wood might be required for the reparation of the sledges, &c. Hy
10 A. M. all the things were brought.

During our march live deer and some geese had been seen, but
no other animal, except two mice, which were making a rather ha-
zardous traverse across the ice ; one little adventurer of the same
lainily was found dead (apparently drowned), at the distance of a
lull mile from the nearest land. 1 had been trying for a trout in
the river, and happening to esf^ in the sand an old copper kettle,
much bruised, I had the curiosity to take it up; and hearing some-
thing rattle within, I had it forced open, when it was found to con-
lain thirty-four balls, a file broken into three pieces, an awl, a fire-
steel, and a crooked knife. This, to an Indian valuable property,
had apparently been thrown away, according to the custom unfor-
tunately prevailing with that people, either as an expiatory sacrifice
lor some calamity, or as a token of extreme aflllction for the loss of
a wile or child. At 1) i'. m., the boat's runners having been repaired
and the dogs' feet cased with leather shoes, we recommenced the
route; and soon afterwards being attracted by some stones piled
upon an island, from which bits of moss laid in a line led to the shore,
I expected to have discovered a cache; but my attendant (a half-
breed) and I sought in vain for the wished-for treasure: we saw,
indeed, an Indian encampment, where a deer had been killed, and
the traces of a sledge near the shore, and hence surmised that our
store had been pilfered. Before morning, however, we were com-
pensated for the disappointment by the acquisition of two deer, shot
by Sinclair and Taylor.

June 1 3th. — The few trees now met with were stunted pines, from
three to six feet high, spreading much at the base or near the root,
and generally dead at the top. They were seen only on sand-hills,
near small rivulets, or (very rarely) on some moist declivity. The
Jouble trips fatigued the people so much, that I acquiesced in their
request to be permitted fo take additional burdens, and travel more
slowly, on condition, however, that they were to make good a greater
distance each journey; and at the usual hour this plan was put into
execution, and appeared likely to answer. Some marks led us to
a cache; and again, at midnight, we found a second, the meat of
^liich I caused to be placed on the ice, so that the main party might
"ol be drawn aside from their course.

;. f^_',i

ii"

140

ENCAMFMENr.

II

\

I

The eastern land now became broken into bays so irregular in
their form as to lead us more than once astray, and occasion sonic
difiiculty in finding the right track; indeed, the continued absence
ofMaufelly and his companion was what I had not calculated upon.
though I still hoped they would be found at an appointed place, near
the entrance of the next river.

We encamped this day (June 14.) at the point of a large opening
leading to the eastward, and the greater proportion of liie men
came up in tolerably good condition, considering the badness of the
ice, the spikes of which were just slWt enough to allow the runner
to cut through, instead of sliding over it, increasing thereby the
labour of getting along. It was past noon when the carpenters, who
were always the last, arrived ; one of them was so affected by the
glare of the ice as to be almost unable to see, and would fain have
excused himself on that account from taking any share in the work,
He had, however, brought the evil on himself by not keeping pace
with his comrades in the night march, which he could well have
done, as he had a much lighter load to drag, and his strength was
unimpaired ; so, notwithstanding bis complaints, he was obliged to
take hold of a cord made fast to his brother's sledge, and to drag
his burden as usual. Indeed, squeamishness is little heeded in suck
travelling as this, and shirking is quite out of the question. I could
not dispense with the duty of a single individual, as an exact distri-
bution had been made of the baggage, *"rom which any deviation
might have seriously affected our future operations : each day's dis
tance, moreover, was marked out, and it was only by a rigid ob-
servance of these arrangements that I could expect to reach the
Thiew-ee-choh on the ice. In short, in my case, as I have elsewhere
said, pity for temporary ailments might be felt, but was not to be
expressed ; the restraint, however painful, being absolutely indis-
pensable.

In the course of the night the weather became overcast and
threatening ; and being perplexed as to the most direct route, from
the seeming continuity of the land to the eastward, as well as the
deep bays and strange sand-hills in the same quarter, I made for
two dark points that stood out boldly from the opposite western
shore, in the conviction that the track would either be found there,
or that I should recognise some objects which might lead me to ii
The sky was extremely lowering, with a cold northerly wind ; and
a small sleet falling, made the ice so slippery that the dogs were

I ALL INTO TME RIGHT COURSE,

141

lead me to it

much fagged. The points, when reached, proved not to be islands,
as I had conjectured, but the extreme promontory of an extensive
bay. I therefore ascended the highest hill near me, and perceived
that we were actually on the western main shore ; though, so great
is the difference between a summer and winter prospect, and so de-
ceptive an appearance does the snow give to heights, that I could not,
by any strain of memory, recollect the outline of a single part, the
whole being, in fact, entirely changed. Nevertheless, we were for-
tunate enough to hit upon the right course; and, after some hard
walking, were stopped by a ridge or barrier of ice and a lane of water,
which compelled us to make a long detour before the line of route
eoul' be recovered. In doing this, we got sight of iwo sand-hills,
which I remembered ; and about 4 a.m., June 15th, we encamped
under the shelter of a high rocky hill about a quarter of a mile from
the river, at which we expected to find the Indians. Had they been
with us, much of the late tedious and unsatisfactory march would
have been avoided, greatly to the benefit of the feet of all the party ;
lor this continual walking on spikes was certainly doing severe pe-
nance, and most sensibly did we feel that two-thirds or more of the
original distance was yet to be performed.

Snow showers uihered in the morning ; and, when these cleared
off, it was seen that we were on the borders of a swamp, caused by
the melting of the snow from the upper lands, which, from the
ground underneath being frozen, collected iuto pools, that slowly
Jischarged themselves into ihe lake. There was not the least sign
of vegetation, for the sun as yet exerted little influence over the cold
and barren soil. Divine service having been performed to the men
assembled in the tent, the journey was resumed by the line of the
river. A partial channel in its centre induced me and my attendants
to keep to the right bank, which, though it receded to the eastward,
offered nevertheless, somewhat higher up, a shorter cut to the other
side, the river at the place where we were being of considerable
width. The channel, however, led us much farther round than
had been anticipated, and iinally ended near a small rapid, which
my party forded; but as a serious loss of time would have attended
the attempt to follow us, I hastened back, and directed the boat
and sledges to return to the mouth of the river, and go along its
wesiern bank. In the meantime my party kept to the right, and,
on their way, saw occasional traces of Indians, at places where they
had been fishing. The ice was more or less decayed, and shelved

112

NKWS FIIOM MK. M'LEOD.

Il

'

IVom (lie banks, where it was four (cc( thick, becoming iniu-li
honey-combed towards the middle, where it dipped into the open
water of the narrow channel formed by the current. Walking,
therefore, was painful and dangerous ; for so slippery was the sm
face, that the nicest caution was required to keep our footing, and
a single false step would have sent us sliding into the stream. As
some defence to the soles of the feet, I placed pieces of undressed
buffalo skin with the hair on between two pair of moccassins and
thick blanket socks, and obtained by this means sensible leliel ;
though, even then, Peter Pindar's pilgrims, and the happy thoughi
of " boiling the peas," presented themselves more vividly to niv
imagination than they had ever done before.

About 1 A. M. of the 16lh,on turning a point, we discerned in
front of us the usual mark of piled stones, and soon incieased om
store with two deer, a quantitity just enough for as many days
consumptiom. I learned from a note, that Mr, M' Leod's party were
living upon the chance of the day, feasting, or fasting, as it might
happen, with seldom enough and never too much; but that this
was the lilth cache he had made, so that we had passed two
unnoticed. iSor, under the circumstances which have been nien
tioned, could this be wondered at, though, as may easily be believed,
a keen look-out had been kept. Deer, il was added, were scarce;
but the Indians held out hopes of overtaking large herds in llir
course of a few days, and for that purpose intended to make a
straight route to the next lake, keeping along its western shore, in
which line I should find whatever they were fortunate enough tn
kill.

The many interruptions of the ice, over wliich the boat had In
be dragged, caused frequent delays, and it was late before shecann
up. Here, therefore, we encamped ; and after a short repose,
proceeded to caulk the boat in several parts, to prepare her for tin
water, whic'i was now suflicently unobstructed to admit of her beiii;;
towed along shore.

The morning was gloomy in the extreme, and snow fellso lliitL
as to cover the hills again with their wintry garment. By 5 p. m
the boat was ready, launched, and every thing slowed in her, tin
bow and steersman alone remaining on board, while the oilier^
hauled her along with a tracking line. The water was a
great deal lower than in the autumn, so that, on arriving at llit
first rapid some tiouble and waste of time were experirnced in

DANOEIIOUH NAVIGATION.

I4»

coming rauili
into the open
It. Walkinff,
y was the sur-
iir footing, and
le stream. As
s of undressed
moccassins and
sensible relief;
happy thought
I vividly to my

,e discerned in
increased oin
as many days
lod's party were
ng, as it might
i; but that lhi>
tiad passed two
ave been men
isily be believed,
>d,were scarce;
;e herds in (hf
ided to make a
stern shore, ii;
nate enough tn

le

le boat had tn

lore she canir

short repose,

arc her for thi

it of her heiu;;

o\v lellso lliicl
t. By 5 1'. M.
/ed in her, iht
liile the otbel•^

water was a
^■riving at llit

jxperirncrd in

ascending its contracted and furious torrent. Once the boat
grounded, the line broke, and only by jumping out was the bow-
man enabled to save hei* from being driven on the rocks ; and such
was the immense force of the water, that it was not until she was
lightened of her cargo that the men succeeded in hauling her up.
In doing this, they were obliged to pass along the margin of the ice
nearest the stream ; and, though five others had done so in safelv,
vet the sixth (Cairon) broke through, and sunk over head : his
next companion fortunately looked behind him at the moment, and
on his re-appearance instantly seized him by the arm, and saved
him from being swept away by the current. The weather, always
I old and gloomy, soon became squally,which, at about 9 p. m., settled
into a storm of sleet and wet snow, coming from ahead, which, driving
upon our faces, so injured our eyes that we were frcquenlly
oompelled to turn round to shelter and recruit them. A second
rapid was gained, and, the channel about it being interrupted by
ice, the former plan of dragging the boat on runners was again
resorted to. In less than an hour,a third rapid made it necessary again
to launch her, which having surmounted, we got fairly on the lake,
not lar from the Island where, last season, I had made my cache
of pemmican. It was here that I depended on finding our two
Indians; and, as they might be cither asleep or hunting, I encamped,
to give them an opportunity of seeing the white tent, which, on the
barren lands, was a conspicious object.

The thermometer stood at 33", with snow, and a raw cold

wind that pierced through us in spite of cloaks or blankets. It

was two o'clock in the morning ; and as I had not yet dined, certain

internal gnawings began to intimate the propriety of supplying (he

organs of digestion with some occupation which might keep them

from quarrelling among themselves. Oh ! thought I, for a cheerfnl

lire, and a warm comfortable meal ! Accordingly, having managed

to collect a beggarly account of wet branches, we applied ourselves,

with laudable zeal, to ignite and blow them into a flame. The

[moss and shrubs were satuiated, and would not burn; but it was

[fondly imagined that, by dint of perseverance and relieving each

lother quickly, the dwarf birchmight be importuned into a blaze.

[We puffed, and it smoked — again, and it lighted — still more, and it

pent out: the puffing was renewed — it looked cheerful, and

[wanted only a little more coaxing. " The least thing in the world,"

[said one, blowing gently, though at the distance of a yard. "Mind

,1 ! ■

%

'; '11

lit

RECOMMENCE OUR JOURNEY.

what you're about," cried anolhcr, — "tliercl it will go out, — i[;
all over." "Ohl get out of the way, let ine come," bawled a ihird;
and thrusting himself forward, applied himself to the work wiili
such vigour and force of lungs, that the few embers yet living Hew
scattered about like the sparks of an exploded cracker. "We can-
not make a lire," said my servant to me, who had been latterly a
passive though not an uninterested spectator of the proceeding ; ''but I
have brought you somv pemmican and a littlv cold uuiter, Sir."

As the Indians did not make ihcir appearance by the following
noon, the men were sent to light large lires with the moss, which
by that time was dry on the neighbouring hills ; a well-underslood
signal, which, if they were within sight, would immediately being
them in. 1 was the more anxious about this, as, without their as-
sistance, on a lake of such magnitude as ihe one before :.s, and so
full of intricacies as to have more than once, on the expediiionof
last year, bewildered Maufelly himself, we could not hope to liud
the way correctly, at least without vexatious delays and many use-
less perambulations. In summer there would have been perhaps
little difficulty ; but it was now like a strange country, for so com
plete is their transformation that the natives themselves, accustomed
as they are to the character of the country, sometimes go aslrav
To have followed the main western shore would have grently m
creased the distance, and, indeed, would not have answered, siiice
the Thlew-ee-choh lay to the eastward of north, and at a pan
where the traverse is so wide that a free horizon intervenes between
the opposite shores, tinder these circumstances I determined, if
the Indians should not come, to make as straight a course as was
consistent with the bends and vtindings of the land. To give them
a further chance, for it never entered into my imagination thai
they had deserted us, I remained all night ; and this the more rea
dily, as the weather was so cold as to make it desirable to court (lie
paio sunshine of the day.

At length, wearied with waiting, we commenced the journey a
10 A. M. of the 18lh June, in the accustomed line of march, excepi
that I now preceded as guide, having deputed others to look oiitfoi
the caches. The thermometer at 36°, with a strong N. W. gale
blowing, made it necessary to defend the eyes from the sharp drifi
that beat upon them; and going entirely from memory (for, de-
pending on the Indians, I had not thought it worth while to bring
my last year's survey), I can ascribe it only to good fortune thai

niKFircr.TY in TRvrrNo oru Ronr:.

II.-)

I hit upon the right course, in a part so narrow l\\n\ the current,
which was perceptible, had already forced an ope.i passage. On
tlie borders of this narrow grew a few stragglii.ijr w. lions, and I
had nearly run against one before I perceived a note for me stuck
into a notch of a projecting branch. It was to apprise us that two
caclies had been made in a bay just passed ; and, although I thought
il likely they would be picked up by those behind, yet, to avoid dis-
appointmenl, I sent Peter Taylor, one of my party, with the note
to Mr. King, He, wishing to shorten his distance, ventured on
some dark ice {at this season generally rotten;, which gave way ;
and, but that he was a very active fellow, and kept hold of his gun,
which stretched across the hole, and so prevented his going under,
bcwould certainly have perished. Mv. King found one of the caches,
ami despatched a couple of light hands after the other.

It was easier to launch the boat, and pull her as Car as the narrow
wentfabout a quarter of a mile), than to drag her along the shelving
slips of ice on the banks : this done, she was again placed on the
limners, ready for the following day; afler which we encamped.
A tlock of geese, some gulls, and two loons were playing about in
the open water, but cautiously remained far out of .shot. A par-
tridge that I shot was quite white, though those about Slave Lake,
near the Fort, were partly brown before we left.

The night was bleak and cold, with the same N. W. gale, accom-
panied by showers of sleet and snow ; and so thick and forbiddin"^
was the morning of the 1 9th, that we did not attempt to move before
noon, when, encouraged by a gleam of stray sunshine, we deter-
mined on setting forward. Accordingly, IMr. King went to direct
the men, who were a little apart from us, to get ready; and, to his
surprise, found them all snug under their blankets, quite uncon-
scious of the march of time. We were soon off; but met with
great inconvenience, as well as hazard, in consequence of the snow
having fallen in such quantities as to render the good and bad ice
nndistinguishable, and reduce it to a lottery whether we fell through
or not. Luckily, nothing more important befel us than an occa-
sional dip up to the knees ; and, as a set-off, marks, stretching far out
on the ice, led us to two fine buck deer, which had been shot bv
Mr. M'Leod himself..

I was not at all certain of the route at this point, remembering
that last year we had gone astray hereabout; and after a tedious
march of doubt and perplexity, I ascended a hill, and discovered

1^1

\U

10

146

m>i.sTi:i{ors wkatmeu.

^ I

that we ware, too far to the eastward. The course was thcrefoiL
changed six points, though upon no better ground than personal
locolleclion, which, lor the leason before stated, viz. the altered
appearance ol the country, was but vague and indistinct. The spot
where we were seemed to he about equally distant from the numr
reus indentations of the land, in any one of which the course nnigiit
lie, and the great similarity in the outline of which made it dilliculi
to select one in preference to another ; indeed, our oldest vmidf^cnrs
confessed themselves unable to determine which was most likely lo
be right. In this uncertainty I made for a bluff bearing IS'.W. ,
and, finding no passage at its base, I ascended another high hill,
whence 1 saw a black lino of open water, which appeared to come
from the d-rection of the narrow leading into Clinton-Colden Lake,
This supposition was soon after agreeably confirmed by the disco-
very, near 'he spot which I havj before described as the Deer Pass,
of a rich cache, containing; li.vre than three whole animals, with a
note written by Thomas Hassel, a pure Indian, who had been edu-
cate 1 at Fed Iliver, and engaged by me as an interpreter.

The water and wind together had so wasted the ice near the bank
here, that not unfrequently we had to lift the boat and sledges over
dry stones md rivulets to get to the next sheet; and the sheets
thp'-iiselves were so rotten, that en one occasion James Spence fell
through, and got a complete ducking before be jould be pulled out,
But the worst was, that this rough highway strained the runners;
several of which were already in so indifferent a plight, that we
should havd thrown them away, if we could hi any way have sup-
plied their phce. However, tho people worked cheerfully, and ;•!
8h. 40m. 1'. M. we encamped, and iunnediately set about repairing
the runner?

As we were now about to traverse Clinton-Colden Lake, it was
material not only to our comfort, but to our successful progress,
that we should have fine weather; and many a look was cast to
windward to read our fortune in the face of r iliire. Hut the N.W.
gale continued i.urtbated and the morning of the SOiii was squally,
dar^, and cold, with heavy showers, which contributed more than
any thing to the decaying of the ice, and making it unfit for travel-
ling on. There was no change at noon; but as every hour was ol
consequence, an efTorl was made to head the gale, which was with
diflicully accomplished, the boat being driven greatly to leeward,
even with the assistance of extra men bearing up against her. The

X^ /^

mm^m^fi

ie was tlicrefoit:
1(1 than personal

viz. the altered
tinct. The spot

from the nump^
Lbe course might
made itdifiicuh
Idest ^^oyiKfovrs
as most likely to
bearing IV. W.
other high hill,
pea red to come
n-Coiden Lake.
id by the disoo-

the Deer Pass,
inimals, with ii
' had been edii
reter.

3 near the bank
id sledges over
md the sheels
tes Spence fell

be pulled out,
i the runners;
'light, that we
ivay have sup-
•^rfully, and ;•!
>out repairing

'JolSTErtOL.S WFaTUHR,
ice was exceedir-Wv rn/<or, i . ''^^

tarter space. '"=' "''"go^ because covcri„(; a

I took a direr/Inn w,«

n-cre chance whelher, even if 1 .rieV iLu ""' " ™-^ ">»"c,. o
■■»"'e through ... ,ab5.H„,l, „f i,,a„;:: „ , , t;'"^",''^'' '" '^"^-K i'is
compas. and my ,e„e,al recollec 'i fo, ' 1 ' '"'^''^ '™^'»<1 'o ,ho
.l.e ™eao.,™e, the weather got wo," '^1'"" "■'" "'" "^^ '"
"n was required for Ihe boat mI\ . " "'"-'""'<^'' "f .^verv
"I '';.f /: >'or was i. wi V he :i1'l^ "'•"■»- "^ -»« «

'■*'''''•'«''.'' e.ertions,.ha(shew„r,' !, T''"'""' "■• "^ "'ey
'".der (he lee of a rock, which tl ™,!; f " ' ''""'•-' •" " »«Iler

■; ""..ndary of a bay wa^ u d "olr,:"' "',"■' "'*'-» «
'"^e. As it v.as „„w about full ,n„" „ T ' ," ' ^'''^' "i«"'» of
. '-"gc of the weather, notwi .nome '"' '"'■ '■' '^''™"™'>le

»™sive that, with ,!,; constlnT^ , ""'"'"y ' '''"•''^'''^ »PPre-
- or three of the wea„er h t: 'bTl'^"' ^^''«- '"8^,!;::,
"" more boisterous than ever and t "''■ "'" ""■' "ish

^ty .ban ,ha, wfeh nshercl 'in m",™'' "'•■'^/''™ '' '"ore gloomy

l-<>e..grayc„lo„r,withhoriI al e r'r wT- " "'^^ "f«
-e-wepl to the north, where, i„ I' „ ' -' ^'"^ ""'''^-'■'"l clouds

rfrteness on which it rested -^JZ "™"S,™n'rast with the co'd

f;'""^ "s, one after the other, for some ,"L ' '"""• ■■•"'' ™i"
™ only yielded to soualls that ov™Zr «,„""'" '"'f"'^' -"
"" noon for some propitious omen ZT^ ""'• ' -•'■■""'l-d
^"".uragedthemen -o stick to the rwi;.':^' '"™'"^ ^"' ''■"■"«
b^done, thoug.. with iKtIe e,.pec,"C, fir'" "'"'' "''■^' """''■
"..les. At .h:s part the lake was t ^^l" .""f ""» "■<'^'' "'»» a lew
«! lbe land ;„ere was evervw^ere ! 7 V ' '"""''"'" "'" "Peningg
n* and halting. ,„ r™,': '::; „t™r 'T'™"; With alLna o
""" wer.. really „,al<i„g reason e„:;r:f "" ,"•» "-o.se;
»f sleet and drift dimmed and confuLd , ■ "" ''"'""« ''>o«crs
1." ox.remely perplexing task to C "*' '' ■'" "' '" '■""'ler it
»-d. evening i, 'cleared to v Ldt?/"" "f" "'« «"'-- To-
;b- .hough parly covered w,:t 7 hTl " "" '"-"■

^-^.".ly. wo wen, here, and werr.ilt t o Ir ^ '"•^^-

• ""serving some

10 "

118

SUNDAY.

marks whicli removed any doubt about the route. The boat arrived
Lite, and the meu complained of being tired. " However," said (ho
poor fellows, " we should not mind that, if the sun would only shine
for us to dry our clothes." Fatigued as they were, the marks were
followed; but, in this instance, the cache had been plundered-
by whom was never discovered.

A break now and then in the sky gave some token of a change,
and by midnight the wind had much abated; but it was only to rage
and howl with more violence as the sun rose, bringing along with
it snow and sleet so thick as to darken the atmosphere, and limit our
view to a few paces before us. In sho"t, it was more like a drearv
day of December than of midsummer. It was impossible to move ;
and being Sunday (22d June), divine service was read in the tent,
where, to the credit of the men it should be mentioned, notwith-
standing the wet and discomfort to which they were exposed, thev
all came shaved and clean.

At length the gale wore itself out, and long lulls, with now and
then a feeble moan, showed that its strength was nearly spent.
Nevertheless, the morning of the 23rd of June was unpromising
and dull; but as the distant land was visible, 1 lost not a moment in
starting. It was from this island that, in our autumnal excursion,
we had been compelled to make two or three tours of island and
bays before our guide had been able to discover the hidden passage
of the Sand Hill, connecting this lake with the next. The farthest
land was seen about N. W. by N. at an immense distance; and
though the line was to all appearance perfectly continuous, yet
from an impression that on the fornier occasion we had kept to
(he left, I now made for the S. W. ; and, having traversed a wide
opening, suddenly came upon fresh marks that pointed to the horns
of rein deer fixed on the top of a heap of stones. Mr. M'Leod, ii
seemed, had left only on the 18th, having been detained by collect-
ing the meat, which, notwithstanding his care, had suffer^ lo in-
considerable mutilaiion from the wolves. The cache was .i.osi
welcome, as, but for this seasonable <upply, we must have opened
the pemmican that night. It consisted of deer and musk oxen, both
very poor, and the latter strongly impregnated with the odour to
which it owes its name. This was so disagreeable to some of the
party, thai they declaied they would rather starve three days than
swallow a mouthful; which coming to my knowledge, though not
spoken within my hearing, I thought it right to counteract the feel

n\£ WEATHER.

i..g, and accordingly ordered the dailv .• r '"

'or our own mess as well as their, and toir' '" ^" '"'"^^^ ''"«"' '^
< e.r nnnds the injurious conseq;;,! ,""""" '' ""P"" ^
"- necessity of accomn^odatingthe "17'""'^'^ ^'-'inence, and
country might supply. ^ '^^" ^"^^^^ to such food as the

The similarity of the extenr
^«ai„ hesitale wl-e.-e .„ dh-eo:!™ SsT, ""'" ""' '"" """'« '"e
»™ng (.-on. overlapping „„i„,, ,,T' , "'■ """'-e of 'he .leceplion
">ea, .hough aKainsah/op7„: 'o'ftl? 'T'"'"' '" "'y «"
b'omg ,„,o a ba,; „„., indeed, wa! bvil'' '"''" "'""«'" »"' were
•;!"e« -oe, and a lane of open ^e ll2""""'r '"''''• "»«' ^»">e
»' »t;ch wc were i„ .ea.d,. A I dont f^'"'""■■''"' "'" "^-"w
'"»ved by a long line „f mart, ujl " °" ""' """'^ ""» »™„ re-
■I- l"™e,. one, n.ade aTo ;::«':;"<"- -^W, wl.ic, wi .
was now clear and warm (he T '°"*'y- '''''» leather

■'"-i 54- in ,l,e shade; s Ihlt „m rr"'"""' '''"« ««° '" ">e s
'.»', hu. as ,he snow wa Id 'I [r^'T *"'«^ P''"'"'« ''•<""
-f'ened, .here was grea. dimou, yl d/'''"'' '^ "'*'^ "'' "'" '»
""wever, by 9 ,.,„. ,l,e who.e nan ' '^^'"^ "'" '""' "'""S al all.

I'he .en, was no. well Jp bZ .T "'"' ""',' "« "'""'"I-"'-
l»-.e shore a..rae.ed our a.fen, o 7, 7',"' "' " «"" "" ""^ "1--
Jp.oach proved .o be .he rn: ^ ; ™ "'Ilf-' «"». "n a nearl
«f a no.e from Mr. iH-^od, who v^v „ , . ^"^ ""'" "'" '"""■<"'»
'"■■"'ng .0 n,e immedia.ely Thei \ '"''{ ""'"""^ «" "'«'■ -e-
"rdered by me .o hun. a Ih.le in al "''' '" '""' *'"'• "'»! being
'»■, 'bey could no. .esis.I eVul" ""T"' ""'""« °° "a-^es ol'
'heir friends whom aeciden. ZZTZ "™"™P™y-»' -me of
T'Ting a guide, they never so l!!. f '' ''"^ ' "»<' "» '»'■ my .e-
''^0 always .y . h..L r„ . L: tThl':"'''''' ■■ '"'-'''^. "--e ,
"■ a»k, 10 be informed of .he d>e "on! »'"'''' ''"'''"'^' ' ^'"' »"'y

June24.h._A warm day t^s ° I"^ '""' "'"""'""'".■y.
;;«Jed,.ha. , res.ed, for L .^ose of elr' 'r"'' ^^ ""-'■
'hen-clolhesand blanke.s, and ge,.^T„f ''^''°» "" ""^" '" J. v
•"■J 'a.i.ude. To collec. , few w „l: Z ^''""^ '»^»«"' '"'• "me
«Ppos,.eside i. was „eeessa,.y ,o 117. , *''''' '™"'"* "" "'"
»' Ihe ice being unequal, owilg "o h ,, d j ''''' ""' ""'^'^""«"'
P«v broke .hrough, and, am'ongs 1 er ' rK-'' ''T'"'''"
"^'ely recovered hi,„.elf, however befl e ' "^' *''" '»«-

' "' »a.er. Towa.ds eveniug disZ'. ,, ? " '^'"""""""e.- louehed

■I'e breeze had blown from ills J *" ''""''' ' "'"' """•«'■

'• L., an appeai'ance ofs.eely dark

1.10

ANNOYANCE FROM THE GUIDES.

. tJ

olouds to the M. W. intimated that rain might be expected from thai
quarter. Accordingly, just as we started at 8h. 15m. p. m, there was
a brisk sliower, but without thunder or hghtning. The decayed and
unsafe state of the ice rendered it advisable to launch the boat, and
transport the baggage to the next solid piece, which was a little
beyond tlic conical mound called the Sand-llill. Opposite to this
sand-hill above fifteen Indians and their families were encamped :
they foi ;ncd a part of those whom we had supplied with ammunition
and other articles, to help them to make the best of the summer ;
but so proverbially improvident are these miserable people, that
nearly the whole which they had received was already lost or ex-
pended ; a few had two or three charges of powder and ball, but by
far the greater part had to depend on their bows and arrows or the
uncertain chance of fishing. We were informed by them, that
many of the Yellow Knives and Chipewyans, who were carrying
our pcmmican to the Thlew-ee-choh, had either eaten or made
away with a considerable portion of it; not by reason of any de-
ficiency of provision, since they had abundance, but from sheer
indolence or wantonness. Our guides also again annoyed us by
their mulish conduct ; for though directed to hold themselves in
readiness to accompany us, when the moment of departure came
one was absent hunting, and the other was quietly lounging on the
bank, wrapped in his blanket, and smoking his pipe with all ima-
ginable unconcern. 1 ordered him, with some signs of impatience
and displeasure, to equip himself, and come with me without delay,
which order was silently obeyed after we had been kept waiting a
full hour.

As for the other absentee, 1 threw the responsibility of his conduct
on his old father, making him answerable for the appearance of his
son, wiChin the next forty-eight hours, with the bag of pemmican
which had been entrusted to his care. Nor did I entertain the least
doubt that the requisition would be punctually complied with, as
he well knew that in default he would thenceforth be scouted from
oiu" establishment. Indeed experience had taught me the advantage
of assuming and maintaining an air of superiority over the Indians.
There is no need of unkindaess or severity; all that is required is a
steady firmness, and never overlooking an attempt at deception,
however plausible. No people scrutinise more narrowly the beha-
viour of those with whom they have to deal; and if they once
perceive that they cannot lie or equivocate without detection, the}

liNTEll UPON LAKE AYLMEK.

151

Will cease to make the attempt, though, from a natural propensity
•o I'alsehood and the habitual character of their speech, they will
do so to a stranger most gratuitously.

Our guide led us in a tortuous direction, among theblack and rotten
ice, and frequently halted to try its strength by pressing on it with
his ieet, or striking it with the handle of an axe; but such over
caution — proper enough, if we had had time — ill accorded with
my anxiety to get quickly forward : and on such occasions after-
wards, Peter Taylor (a half-breed) boldly led the way across any
suspected place. Still, constant impediments presented themselves
in some shape or other, from open water, ice, or snow; but all
were happily surmounted : and w hen we had made a short portage
across a point of land, we came to another cache containing five
musk oxen and a deer. The latter only was taken, the remainder
being left to be converted into dried meat, for the supply of Mr.
M'Leod's party on their return.

We now entered upon Lake Aylmer, and made for a detached
and rounded mass of rock forming an island in the distance. Here
we would gladly have stopped, had there been moss enough to
make a lire; but tliis not being the case, the route was continued,
at a rate that made me wonder v. hat had called forth this sudden
and extraordinary spirit of emulation. I was obliged to put my
best leg forward to keep up at all; and, when we halted for en-
camping, I wiped my brow, and asked where the deer were which
we had been chasing, or why they had started oil at full speed, as
if the " manito," or evil genius, had been behind them? After a
pause, and looking at each other, the Indian said he thought Taylor
was trying how fast he could walk, and Taylor said he was .sure
the Indian wished to pass him, which he wfi^. determined he should
not do ; so that it seemed 1 had been assisting at a foot match ; and
the people behind were four hours in coming up to us. Passing
showers had fallen during the march ; but when the wind died
awav into a calm, the rain fell in torrents, and the under-stratum
of soil being frozen, every hollow was transformed into a pool of
water, the accumulation of which overflowing in a housand little
rills gradually undermined the tent, which, unfortunately, had been
pitched on u declivity, and finally insinuating themselves between
ilie blankets, awoke me in the middle of a lirst nap. The sun had
not risen, or at least was not visible, and I much question if the
most rigid Mussulman would have enjoyed so early an ablution.

' '•']£

^i '1

U-A

I I

. fj

^ \

if

Ml

1

I

Ibi

OUR CHEERLESS SITUATION.

Nevertheless my companion, Mr. King, seemed to heed neiiiiei
rain nor flood; for having espied a herd of deer on an adjacent liill,
he composedly put on a blue cloak and set off" after them; and
though he got no deer, he brought back some fine plover.

The 25th was dark and gloomy, but our stray Indian failed noi
to come in with the pemmican. A fog, that had been more or less
prevalent for the last fourteen hours, became rather thicker as night
drew on; but having now my guides, and judging that the men
would suffer less in travelling than from lying inactive in their wet
clothes, I started at 10 p.m. The Indians, always timorous, kept
close along the laud, and fixed us constantly amongst the had and
unsafe ice, which now resembled spikes from two to three inches
long. Shoes were soon perforated, as well as the pieces of rein-
deer skin with the hair on which had been fastened round them as
a slight protection to the feel. The parly with the boat very wisely
kept i'arther out, and had consequently better ice, the surface ot
which was like a bed of madrepores, except thai the upper edges
were considerably sharper.

About midnight the guides hesitated to proceed, on account ol
the dense fog : they thought they had already erred, and affected
to be fearful of misleading me ; but to this pretence 1 quickly put
an end by directing the route with the compass. It must be con-
fessed that the travelling was by no means agreeable; for to say
nothing of the darkness, the fog almost wet us through, creating a
chill which exercise was unable to overcome.

A wild rocky point which we made I recognised as one of my
last year's encamping places, and was not a little glad to lind that
we were within one march of Sand Hill Bay, where our labours on
this lake would terminate. About a mile further we stopped, and
the boat arrived at 7 a. m. of the 26th.

Throughout the whole of this day not a gleam of sunshine came
to cheer our spirits or dry our wet clothes; on the contrary, we
had a weary continuation of gloomy weather, and rain in torrents.
The night was yet more forbidding, and when the usual time ol
departure came, we could pot distinguish objects a hundred yards
off. Under such circumstances, to continue lli.^ route was impos-
sible. All were drenched to the skin, and no lire could be made;
but the men, with great resignation, making ihe best of their damp
lodgings, looked about lor the most siiollered place to lie down .
sjome wrung their blankets, while olliers, as a last resource, put ou

to heed neiiliei
an adjacent hill,
after them; and
plover.

ndian Tailed iuk
een more or less
f thicker as night
ig that the men
tive in their wet
timorous, kept
igst the bad and
to three inches
pieces of rein
round them as
oat very vviselv
, the surface ol
Je upper edge*

•'I^I^'CIAL INVESTIGATION.

on account ol
d, and affected
e I quickly put

must be con-
)le; for to say
gb, creating a

as one of my
id to find that
)"r labours on
3 stopped, and

linshine came
conirary, we
II in torrents,
usual time oj
undied yards
' was impos-
uld be made;
f their damp
to lie down :
ufce, put Oh

then- whole wardrobe in th h '^''

cautions, however, we're ineffecrj ' / ' ''."'^,^«''»t''- These p.-e-
part found themselves in ^ZTnf' "" '^^ "•«'*"'"S the grea e.-
"ad brought down on th m't, Jt^h "''^' ^^'^'" «- -" h
- - one of them awake, T ould" T r^'"" ' ^^PP-'d
^"dden jerk with which he with^ . ' ^'"'P ^^"Shing at the
""* - which he had u,!::^TrJZj^^ hand ou't of th

The morning of the 07,1 ^ P'^*'®^ 't.

clearing to thp IV ". ^''^ was still foggy . h„f .

^ecJf^r \\^, ^"--^ged us to^'t and ab""T^' ^'"
A fresh cache afTnr^^j ' *°^"' noon it

" W^"' " • ;e Sand miZ.""' '"y""' ""* A^y. Il w"

,!! ■ ' r """■'"' "'e portage „,, t,^? "^''y "» "> «'« Polar
in. >vas <l«.i„g„ished, wiih a 1 i r ' ^''''=»-«-ohoh a white
«f«»".se, proved ,o be M, Z"^ ,"''""''''''"""'•' '^■^ and th
"Pocled „s so early tI J I '' ""'' '"» Party, who !ea,l
-;« fron. whiothi- Jal'jtT "^""^ "-"■- -d .he s''

*y; of de,e„,io„, f„, x; ;t : :t ""^ "■'^' <""' --d t:;

mmay of i„ve,ciga„„g „„ J„th ° f r'''^' "' " 8''™ "'" ""= op-
Xe ha '''''°''' """" "" P™'-

••"«8orer mlZ\Z7jlCT"'''"- ''"' ""^ charge was not
•»™ '■- wife a sound dr b ' ^^f """" """''^"^ "-"-had
«ep„oa, however, ueithe Mr m 7""-' '"''■" -">"= with this

'"™ be put to the test of an .,1' "" "'""'O" which could not

s t"""'' "'^ nlxnTTbT"' "''■''"'''■•- we:';:

^'i'ied Jack, who nn k • "® accused was ^ ri •

"'^ asked f .'was H ^^ '"^errogated, merely p "nted?'^?'"

'opened. *' And . '"^ ^"^ ^'^^''^d, or looked r ? ^" ^'^'

, " ^nd lor what reason " j . ^ ^* '^ '^ bad been

' "ot as much ^n^ 'eason, said he, "shmiM i a

unitn and more than r^ ""ou/d [ Jo so^ Hav*.

;:: "- -o„,.th .h^re;: ::'.iir "" — "-

'»™ed thai ■, V I, ^ "PPearance of i||.f„|:„ 7 ™'s

h'"^" i 0 a s„^;""";.''""^ ''='' "ocused ht 1; ''"' "'""■ f"^

uio a sullen frown th^f u . ' "'^ countenance

-^ -,.„,, „., ,,„ „ ^J. <ha bespoKe deter^iued reve„:r

""'''■"■^ 'fapid, and ,e„d his ,„;„ I^ f "'" *" '" P"^'' <»'

""'•'"" onr aid if he thought

6 -M.

,p.,i

m

■- 1

151

INSECURITY OK THE BOATS.

v,c should require ihcni. It was late belore the boat came; and
the men ., : dogs being fagged, lor it was hard work, we encamped
A number of mice (lemmings) were seen, and some killed. There
was this dillerence in them, that one kind had long skinny earsol
a lobe shape, whereas the others had an orifice only. They w ere
dissimilar also in colour, and in their tails; but both lought with a
hall-bred terrier, and frequently bit it.

The morning of the 28th being line, I obtained sights which coi
ruborated those taken the previous year on the same spot. Having
ordered every thing to be taken out of the boat preparatory to
dragging her across the portage, about a quarter of a mile in
breadth, to the Thlew-ee-choh, my astonishment may be conceived
when information was brought me that the carpenters would not
answer for the consequences of such a step, as the wood of whieli
she was built was too soft to allow of her being dragged over that
or any other portage. This was the first time that any such notion
about the quality of the wood had been intimated; for otherwise,
though it might have cost us incredible trouble, a different and
tougher kind should have been procured from Fort Resolution, or
even farther, had I been only apprised in due season at the house ;
nor could I now understand the matter at all, as the same man had
built my last boat on the former expedition under Sir John Franklin;
and certainly a more efficient one was never turned out of hand, a^
was demonstrated by the fact of her reaching England, and having,
as I believe, again gone out with Captain Ross. It was a contre-
temps for which I certainly was not prepared ; and my only chance
of surmounting the difficulty was the possibility that the crew miglii
be able to carry her, though to effect this (never previously con-
templated) it was necessary to cut away the wash-boards, which
had been purposely riveted to the gunwales, to enable them to sup-
port the pressure. The moment of lifting the boat up was one oil
intense anxiety; and it is impossible to describe the burst of my
feelings, when I saw the men walk away with her. The task, how- 1
ever, though successfully accomplished, was a severe one, and
taxed their strength to the utmost. Twice one of the best menol
the party declared he knew not if he should stand or fall when,
from the inequality of the ground, the weight pressed particularly
on him; and all were greatly fatigued. The reflection that the samel
peration would be impossible when the wood had become saturatedl
and heavy with water, was not calculated to excite sanguine cnio-j

()

! boat came; and
)rk, we en«.'aujped
lie killed. There
)ng skinny ears ol
nly. They ^^ey,
loth tought wiih a

i-AUNCIi OF THE BOAT.

sights which coi
me spot. Having
at preparatory to
ter of a mile in
may be conceived
enters would noi
le wood of vvhicli
Iragged over thai
t any such notion
3; for otherwise,
, a different and
rt Resolution, or
on at the house;
le same man had
IrJohnFranklin;
dout of hand, a^
and, and having,
t was a conire-
I my only chance
t the crew iniglii
previously con-
h-boards, which
ble them to sup-
it up was one o[
the burst of my

The task, how
Bvere one, and
the best menol
id or fall when,
sed particularl)
•n that the same
jcome saturated

sanguine cmo-

nous: however J trust I '*^

"fl"'' 1'-'^ (for I lakc'a Tit'""""' """o" ■-PiJ^ of ,he

was /loaied, or lif,e,| over "he Jf '''"'' ""^ *«"'"« 'tal the boat

kW to the other end o? tt pt^ k'"'' .'""'"■^O f"' '^eir
« unavoidable, occasioned oT T\ '"" ""^ "''"'<«'' "' on,-
W-V''« '^^k *=■» «omptaed ,b„ I f ^' """ '■' ^^"^ very late

-!' '»^-. where! afeTe ToTt hfd'h """""" '" "-^ '""'^^^ <>< -
"«;'e, the sledges and ru^ne^! 1 '""'"''' "'" "' '» ^»' "» on
™'«las before u„,i| we,°adedT "'"'" '""'''"'' ""'' «" P™-
; - way a cache of .wojeer' M^"'"'"'' '"'''"'« P'^X^'-P
"''%'Sage was carried over and ,1 i'" ""' ^''''''B'' »« '^ded:
""« of which followed 7n ■ It f' ■"^.' '^''™ •""W" 'l'« 'api*.
7;»«^^ and a warm on', | ^T'""- ^'"' "-ermonfete.:
"Ii'il. overflowed the low..„. '^ '"'' ^'"' •"""gilt heavv rain
-IW -he broob n r."'":;"";'"' •'^""°''' "> ""= i e

'» wade across them, anji „ h " •'''"'"''^' '»^<''' " ''■'^a'dons
7r«« work. Having ;;;et.T,r"^'*™^'^ '"«™-^1 the
*4'es, we encamped a, the htd J '' '■""" '^''« ^"t 'te
»'f li'o pemmioan from m,t , ""« ''''?''' ""d PO^age, to
« '""« intermission orTheck th™ T"'"? ''^ "^ --.which fe«

"™ partridges, some de 7n'd 'r '"'^ ''">-

;« i and I remarked that tl e Lil" k"""" ^'^ "' '""""'"S' were

'e dwarf birch, and sometimes o he ?""" "'"'" "■« ™''"' »'

I'^ee stones on ,he plain, posl,v , T ^''' '" P''"''"-™'^ '» the

K,„geyesof their'gre.'X'e »"'"-,. ■»<"■« ""^^ "•-" ">'

"«; wdlows were without catkins Ir ',/*'"' ""'' '"•<'»"' «wls.
K '!"= branches. "'' "' ""y ''"dding at the extremities

(^l^^n^I!::;^:- -;;« -';-'y '-. .hough the

Hf Wodmij "P the narrow parts „|',| "'^""""'"»<^ bnaWers,
I '^"'"'' """-"P'd. presented impcdi'

!;)((

UEACH MtsK-OX KAPID

;e

i

; I;

inenls which greatly increased the difliculty and the lediuustiess ol
our progress. Taking with nie a couple ol hands, I preceded iIk
party ; and having got on the ice by means of the boat, we soon oanii
to a cache of three deer which were placed on the track. Passing
ley River on the left, more marks were seen and other meat louml;
and while we were occupied about it, the interpreter, accompanied
by several Indians, came from the hills, having left Mr. IM'Leod in
follow their companions who were before. I^'aving a note contain
ing directions for the proper disposal of the meat, we went on, anj
in about two hours overtook the other men who were brought loi
stand by the weakness of a bar of rotten ice tlfat bent most ominoib
ly in whatever direction it was tried. However, we had conic too
far to recede, and one part was at length discovered that with care
ful placing of the feet on the whiter, and therefore stronger, piotu
beranccs, was cohesive enough to bear the weight of a single person,
— who, having first passed himself with the end of a line fastened
to his sledge, got upon the firmer ice, and then with a sudden jerk
twitched his load across alier him. On gaining the narrows (hat
lead into Musk-ox Lake, < ■ progress was cut short by open waloi
ahead, as well as along each bank. It was too deep to ford ; sn
having jumped together upon a piece of ice about twelve feel long
and eight or ten broad, and then detached it by cutting a line wiili
the axes, we made a sort of natural raft, which we ferried over,
with the same axes and the tent poles for paddles. A great dealoi I
snow yet encumbered the eastern side of the hills, and two snow birds
were seen which had not changed their wintry plumage; yetlliH
mosquitos, at a temperature of 40", were quite lively enough to
execute with their usual skill the neat operation of cupping. About
the time that the boatarrived, we were joined byour friend iM'Leod
He remained with us through the night; and gave an account ofliij|
hunting excursions, in which the superiority of his ritle-shootingliad,
it seems, perfectly astonished the Indians : as well it might, for at I
that work he would have rivalled a Kentuckian.

Julyl. — As we had now overtaken the Indians, it was useless loj
hurry on, and I gladly permitted the men to rest till noon. Tliel
boat then took us to the ice on Musk-ox Lake, and at 4 v. m. wel
reache(^ Musk-ox rapid, the point from which I had returned iln;|
previous year. Several Indians who were encamped here paddleJl
to us in their small canoes, and assailed our cars with the familiail
but annoying cry of " Ktthen-oolah, Kllhcn-ta-houly, " — »<> deer, ihol

Js, I preceded (Ik
oaJ, we soon came
le track. Passiiij;
otiier meat I'ound;
eler, accompanied
lel'tMr. M'Leodio
ng a note contain

we went on, anj
were brouglu loa
3nt most OJninoll^

we had conic (uo
ed that witii caie
' stronger, pio(„.

>fa single person,
of a line laslpued
itii a sudden jerl,
the nairows (hai
>»'t by open waiti
deep to ford ; s„
twelve feet long
utting a line wiili
we ferried over,
A great dealoi
id two snow birds
luniage; yet (lie
lively enough lo
cupping. Aboui
r friend MLeoi
in account of liis
He-shooting y,
' it might, foiai

it was useless loj
till noon. Tliej
id at 4 I'. M. wej
d returned llief
3d here paddled
ith tiic familial
" — no dew, ihol

•'^'^ »>".».„,,„,,„„„,, ,,^,„^.^

•Jeer are gone a way • i,.j k„ , . '*'

.f-™al, l,a., j,,„,, » -^ / appeare.. ,|,», „„ ,,,,.„•

I.e «» forced ,„ ,iv„ „,„ (t ™ '" V" "" ""••"■• »''«"'

»not fas.,d,o„., i„ hi, „„,. '"""^^ '^"■fe Indian, wl,„ eauM,
Soon after we encamped, Mr ILI j.

r ","■' '''"•™'' '"■•"■'"•'J. and ,Ie boa 7 " ' " '""' "^ """baff-
l"l»»- llie uppe,. ,a|,y ""' boal safely ,„„„red ,„ ,|,^ ^^^

My and.-Some Indian, wi.l, „,„ ■
».ng a, ,. was s„ppo,„j |„i,ered L, 7"" ""■" >"" ""^in- •

;"v,lude-a„ i„,i,„,„i„„ ^,1^ '3'"'^'<"« •»• released fr„,„ „„„.
"'""•'■ a. Il.ey were jel p „Ld , ""' *'"' """de'-fnlsa ^

'»'« --^^l' pains ,0 pl„^«e i ; hVd """P''''''""'' '^'■.v we sh^ d

'* children of na„„e, who e «! 7""' "•" """^"P'^n of.hTse
'»™l. and whose piiy ;! IT , ^ ''"'"'"' "'e '"r f..od and

•* "•« p.o.e„ee'„/,h i^ rtr?:' '^"""'"■^ »'-"el::;

«"'»». yet I have ™e. wi I J; f ™!'l. "■ " «'™'» a halt

.■"W pure benevolence aZn'!,' "''""" "' «'-' n,ay be

-f. perhaps, be an exeep"!". b ," '""'''''■ ^'"•'"^''» '"msel

|«™wed, of every ae.ion'o a „„!■ " '^rf''"'' "'^ ■"""ve, seem

*hness alone. ■"" """» '""'an is, ,„ „., j,„^„,^-'

J' e: 'ityTnt ~,:r ^»- -K -.. pe„p,e were „e

b «r v..iryin, „y ir::— :'t'-7 -V- -''--

*^f^"'' '■"^ companion, ,?,;:;;r «"»""»<'; and .akin/;;;'

»'« "-ward. After a bend oX """"' "' "'" "ver for a few

»""<- -apid course to . ;:'„'„,. ^.Tr^^' " '""'"^' " -P "-

''^jonied by a large stream ftl ,7 '^'"'"' '™ ">iles do>vn it

I" "-^"- a. the ^ain b™:;,: V-'^-'' -'.ich , a™ inelil; '

'"lew-eo-choh,b„l which Ihe

mJ^^^:

i:)R

SURVEY or Tin: river

Indians dislinf^uishcd hy tlio appellalion of (lie Contwny-to Rlvrr
calling the one we raine hy, Tlilcw-eo-choli. Ho this as it mav,
thnre seems no tlonbt lliat this western hranoli docs take its rise in
Contwoy-to, or tlie Hum Lake orilearnc; whicli lake was Cully jden
♦ified by the Indians present as that whose western extremity Sir
.1. Franklin's party crossed in the first overland expedition at llf.
langer's Hapid. They spoke of two outlets; and some who had
been there described the lake as one extensive and uninterrnpiej
sheet of water : they also agreed in stating that it was at a conside-
rable distance, and I subsequently heard that two smaller lakes in-
tervened between that and the Thicw-ee-choh.

A line of rapids which the boat ran led us to an opening or small
lake four miles broad, bounded on the north by a ridge of blue
mountains, named after my lamented friend Captain Peter Heywood,
R.N., which cut the lake at a right angle. The centre, and, indceil,
the greater part was covered with ice ; but a channel of open water
on the eastern shore gave me hopes that we should not long have
occasion for the sledges.

July 3d. — Two Indians were despatched this morning in search
of those who were yet absent with the pemmican, whom having I
found a few miles off, they conducted them to the encampment wiili
their burdens. This precious article, which, from the commence-
ment of the winter to the present moment, had been a continual
subject of anxiety to me, was now counted and examined, and most
happy was I to learn that, to all appearance, it Iiad been broiigli
without injury or spoliation, except in the solitary instance already!
stated. The husband of the offender had himself given the infor-
mation, and he now expressed a wish that the act of a bad woraaDJ
might not be the means of his losing the promised reward for carl
rying it; " for," added he, •' I beat her well ; and if you do not be-
lieve me, ask those who stood by. Oh ! she has a bad head — Sasslj
That very evening she went away from my lodge ; nobody knew!
where. Two nights I remained silent; but as she did not comei
the third, fearing she might be lost, some of us went in search ofherj
and, after a long and fatiguing walk for miles in every direction, aDil|
looking in every nook and cranny that we could see — would jc
think it? we found her hid among the large rocks close to the lodgeJ
Oh! she has a bad head! but I drubbed her well — Sass!" Tlii
poor fellow evidently regarded this summary chastisement as ai
expiatory offering to appease our resentment.

Conlwny-to Riw,
'Jo this as it mav,
Iocs lake its rise in
lake was fully i,|p„.
tern extremity .Sir
I expedition at He-
nd some who had
and uninterriipteii
t was at a conside-
) smaller lakes in-

^' « -^TOCK or P„0V,s,oN-,.

n opening or small
jy a ridge of blue

in Peter Heywood.
Jntre, and, indeed,
inel of open water
uld not long have

norning in searcli
m, whom liavin"
encampment wii
n the commence
been a continual
imined, and most
iad been broiigl

• instance alreadj
r given the infer-

of a bad woman
1 reward for can
if you do notbe^
bad head— Sass!
e ; nobody knew
did not come oa

• in search of her,
ry direction, audi
see — would v
lose to the lodge,
I— Sass!" fill
astisement as ai

^Ve had altogether twenlv .n. , '•''"

''^-•^;'i^''^y pounds each"! ;:::;:r '' ''^'"""-"' --^-'wng

•ase of cocoa, and a two-galU k^ . "'''"''^»'' "-me //o' ^ ^
^' •^" ^00.1 for the three mt. f 1 ^'"" ' "" «^'«^"a'e "^iy
Hecomc me to enlarge ..nnn f\ IJ " «P«''alions. h ,, , ' ' ^'

..J rock, by a oirciiou, Ll^rtZ """"""' l'"""<J^ ov„, ""
*n (1,0 pain o„d„,ed T: ,« 1"" '"" '"'"''-<' '"''o C
formed innumerable spites Zi , ■"" ?"'»• «l'c.» the ,V

-erial help, J^ „„, """"*""■' ^ho, for hire I 7?'"'
'-Fan, and C^I C^- i: "jf' "^^ ^-'. ~ tll

-"atrsr-

t«6nised 1,0... and calledT b. , ■""""P""""""!^. I imnfedLel '
;;; -■" ".^f-e was a„ old wo: ^„: -7 ' "' »'..c,, she C It

"--"'■'-^--"-...o,...hood.ea.edno,i,,,e

f:

. '

f < ! ;J

1 1)1)

IB I

' l.iiifl

■i

m m<

M

A IMCTUUF.SQUE VIEW.

Joiibt in 'liC minds ol the hunters as to the best route to be taken on
tlieir return with Mr. M'Leod to the Fort- and they had half decided
on going a day's journey to the north to kill mifsk-oxen, when the
i'og clearing away discovered the branching antlers of twenty rein-
deer spread over the summits ':>r the adjacent hills. To see and
pursue was the work of a moment, and in a few minutes not an
active hunger remained in the encampment. It was a beautiful and
interesting sight; for the sun shone out, and lighting up some jjarts
cast others into deeper shade : the white ice rellected millions ol
dazzling rays; the rapid leapt and chafed in little lipples, whirh
melted away into the unruffled surface of the slumbering lake;
abrupt and craggy rocks frowned on the right; and, on the left, tlic
brown landscape receded until it was lost in the distant blue moun-
tains. The foreground was iilled up with ihe ochre-coloured lodges
of the Indians, contrasting with our own pale tents; and to the
whole scene animation was given by the graceful motions o( tk
unstartled deer, and the treacherous crawling of the wary hunlet*

CHAPTER \.

liistnictioiis to Mr. M'Lootl upon our Separation. — Meet vvitli ' kaitcho. — Hi-
Lodge. — Imminent Danger to the Boat. — Akaitcho's friendly Caution. —En
l)arkation, — Heavy Storms. — Our Crew. — Geoiop'.cal Features of the Coumn
Obstructions from the Ice. — Perils from a Series .jf llapids. — Plunder of a liji
of Pemmican. — Obstacles on our Passage. — Boisterous Weather. — Deer-
hunting. — Observations. — Deviation of the River. — Desolate Scenery. —De-
tained l)y the Ice. — Cascades. — Land-marks. — Contraction of the River. -|
Baillie's River. — Flock-; of Geese. — Tact requisite in Command. — Prcci|ii-
tons Rocks. — A Fox. — E.squimaux Marks. — Bulleu iRiver. — A Storm. -j
Lake Pelly. — Conjectures of an Indian. — Encampment. — View of the Coiintr*
— Further Obstructions. — Observations. — Lake Garry.

It was now unnecessary for !Vlr. .^I'Ljod to proceed farther; anill
it was satisfactory to me, at parting with him, that 1 could mak?j
over a tolerable stock of dried meat for his party, which '.vonkl
consist of ten persons and fourteen dogs, otherwise entirely df-
pendent on the success of (he hunters who were to guide them

ile to be (aken on
^ had half decided

<-oxen, when the
s of twenty rein-
il's. To see and
v minutes not an
s a beautiful and
ng up some parls
3cted millions of
e ripples, which
lumbering Jake;
d, on the left, the
stant blue moun-
3-coloured lodges
Jnis; and to the
•• motions o( tlie
le wary huniei*

th ' kaitcho. — ilh
lly Caution. — En
ures of the Couinn
— Plunder of a liaj
Weather. — Doer-
ate Scenery. — Df-
)n of the River -
itimand. — Prccipi-
er. — A Storm. -
iewofthe Countn

At 10

SEPARATJox

^^ "^ A. Ai l„l , ,

'•■ROJi MR, „.jj,^^

last

hajfthe
<^ccasioij

<^argo (o the

to

ice

■^'PecUns the duties (h

^P'^at tbo subst

;^-^« sent off Hitb th

101

^"^'^'^'ake;andl

availed

le s

^^"» of our forme,

'edgi
n^Vselfofth

:es

IS

«"'«; tV mo,,""""'" '"'■"' """''' ''o ■•eoimrrf' n"""' """""■'salions
'"""" fo ZZ"""'"' "' *'-'' X tf '"" '■'"■'"S -". ab-

'<■»'•'■. 'WjuinW l.im , , "'^'"'''I'vercd /„,„ p,;, ,, ' 7""' place (0
cessarv. rinali. i "'^'"''•''Pen mis/;,,./ ^ '<* '^''ord any

N») ice. '■■' ■^"'' » .11, , ;,e„,,. f,,.; ""• % lh,.s ,i„,„

^''"^ •'oa. wa, ,00 ' ' ""'""■'"^'"or

'""" »Pe„. .,;? ' '" "'" """^.- side of „„•;'• '""f "■'■ w„l, „,e
""« "•■■on. .','■"■" '" '■<"■• 1''- vo ,;.'™"'^"'» -Iv half

'" ^'and il, 11,,. ° ■'^''" "" '■' a .s(,,,„„ , " ''"' ""'"l"',*.

iwoeivod Tl "''""S*"-. «l„e|, ,„-,„ ""'■'"• »av,n.,;a,«|

""•-"al «as sen, ; '""■'''" "" <1.N /,.;„ 1 ' """•^''"'■■fad,

'"-« -„ a. ;, :!:":; - ">' - .^ ., .,,,; • ; ;-; "" so,,,,.

<m\oypr i..i r ^*^' '^'» we wore tnn I '^<""<' detain his

^« t uini again

1 pf\

IJ

102

IMMINENT DANCEH TO TIIK !iOAT.

I

— I will go." The boat had now arrived; and llie rest ol'the men
being busied in making the portage, she was pushed off witli lone
good hands, quite hght, to run the fall. Unfortunately the steers-
man kept her rather too much to the left; In consequence of which,
after descending the firsi fall, she was drawn upon a shelvint,^
rock, forming part of the ledge of the second : this brought her
up with a crash which threatened immediate destruction, and
called forth a shriek from the prostrate crew. The immense force
of the water drove her farther on, so that she hung only by the stern.
The steersman jumped on the rock; but though he maintained !iis
footing, he could not lift her off : he jumped on board again, whilst
1 called out and made signs for the men to go forward into the how,
and be ready to pull the larboard oars, .\midst the confusion this
direction was not attended to, and, in an instant, her slem was swept
round by the large fall. I held my breath, expecting to see her
dashed to shivers against a protruding rock, upon which a wave five
feethigh was breaking directly before her; but, happily, the steering
oar had been only half laid in; and, taking the rock, it twirled lin
broadside to the rapid, which then carried her down w ithout further
injury. The water being pumped out, it w as found that she did
not leak; and this being so, I was, upon the whole, not sorry for (ho
adventure, as it not only gave the men a memorable proof of !lie
.strength of these clear-water rivers, but afforded me an occasi(/ii
(oi- cautioning them against running any rapid for the future, w'Mioiil
lirst studying the lead of the current.

The river appearing to be fiee from ice, as far as could be dis-
cerned from the hoighls, I thought it unnecessary to take all the spare
people on with n>e, and (herefore left Ihe interpreter with others lo
remain at Akaitcho's h)dges until the carpenters, who were wanted
to inspect the boat, should return with further instructions for their
guidance. Seeiag that I was about to depart, Akaitcho looked vorv
melancholy, ant cautioned mc ag.iinst the dangers of a river which
he plainly told me none of the piesent race of Indians had the lea^t
knowledge of: especiaily did he warn me agams* Esquimaux
tieachery, which, he said, was always perpetrated und*)r the dis-
guise of friendship; and "when you least expect it," added ho.
•' they will attack you. I am afraid I shall never soc you sga'n,"ho
continued; " hct should you escape from the great water, take caio
you arc not caupht by fhe winte.', and thrown into a siuat? )n liki
that in which you were on your return from the Coppermine, It

••est of the men
ed oft^ with lotn'
ately the steers-
[uence of which,
ipon a shelvill^
his brought her
lestniction, and
; immense force
ily by the stern.

maintained liis
rd again, whilst
'd into the how,
; confusion this
stem was swe])(
ling to see hei
lich a wave five
ily, the steering
:, it twirled liri
without furdiei
id that she did
)t sorry for (ho
lie proof ofllic
le an occasi(/ii
future, w-'lioit!

"KAVY .STOI{!V/,s

103

vou are ahi„e, and the In.?;.

v'oured to ouiet hi. o , *"''""''' ''elp yo,, " „ .

the event nf . "'^ ^'efermination in i '' '">' '"-

^s safe as if we had ! ''"' '^P'''^' '" ^^''ioso keen! ^^ ^^

"■"V ""P'-y of i„ p^; 3 . ';-; "» ft«y was „,.o„„ * ' :;;:^

^' "day, was devoid ,„ ,|,o exer -,'""",'« ""y- ^'''-l,, , „i2
"« ^I'ole perform.,,,,;^ ,,f „.,,ut7 ° "'"' '''^'''S''""^ d.nk, I,"

i>'nst,e country; and o„

( h

a

n '^

11

.')

104 GEOLOCiY OF TIIK COUNTRY.

the 7(h I lie storm gradually moderated, got drizzly, and finally sini
only at intervals, still loth, as it seenied, to leave off. At last (ho
sun peeped faintly through the gray clouds, and at his setting lit up
a hope of better times. The boat was finished, and the carpenters,
with an Iroquois, who had been purposely kept to accompany them,
were dismissed, and desired to return with the other men with all
possible diligence to ^Ir. M'Leod.

July 8th. — There was still rain, but a break in the clouds indi-
cated something of a change; and I had the boat launched and laden
with her cargo, which together with ten persons, she stowed well
enough for a smooth river, but not for a lake or sea-way. The
weight was calculated at 'JSfiOlbs., exclusive of the boat's coverinu
or awning, masts, yards, sails, spare oars, poles, planking, and tlif
crew. The latter, as now Hnally reduced, consisted of —

Jiisnes M'Kay, Highlander Stoersiiiaii.

George Sinclair, llall'-breed Do. ^i Bowman.

Charles M'Kenzie. Highlander Bowman.

Peter Taylor, Half-hreed \

James Spencc, Orkney |

.John Ross, Highlander i . ,.,, ' Middlemen.

' " f Artillery- i

William Mallev, Lancashire , \

I men. \
Hugh Carron, Irish » /

Besides Mr. llichard King, the Surgeon, and myself.

At 10 a. m. we pushed from the shore, and found the rain liaii
caused arise of ful' eight inches in the river, which varied in brcadlli
from two hundred yards to a quarter of a mile, as long as it kept be
tween the rocky ridge of the mountains, a distance of about six
miles. In this part, I remarked the same characteristic features of
gneiss and porphyritic rocks, with large fragments and boulders on
them, as Dr. Richardson* describes as presenting themselves in the
neighbourhood of Fort Enterprise and Point Lake. Many of tlicso
rocks were broken into cliffs and precipices, which faced to the casl
Numerous regular gullies, or what might once have served for tri-
butary channels, cut the river wilh considerable uniformity east ivid
west. The beds of most of them were half filled wilh earth, stonc'
and moss, together with some few willows, whose small and (ar'jv
leaves were just beginning to look green. A wide and deep channel
that was passed terminated in a rapid, which having first carefull;.

Appx., Franklin.

DANGER FKOM TIIK UAIMDS.

Uif)

(inally s|)ii
At last the
itling lit up
carpenters,
ipany them,
[len with all

clouds indi-
;d and latkii
stowed well
-way. The
xt's coverinu
ing, and llif

nail.

the rain lia«i
ied in breadth
as it kept he
of about siN
tic features of
Id boulders on
riselvcs in the
lany of thcsr
ed to the east
served for Iri-
'mity east ii ul
earth, stone
all and ta.'is
deep channel
(u'st carefull;-

examined, was run with a full cargo, and brought us to a small lake
perfectly free from ice. This lake is remarkable as forming the
northern boundary of the Heywood chain of mountains, w hich hero
.slope off' into inconsiderable and regular hills, so thickly strewed with
i^ray ''ocks and stones as to have the appearance of an immense
((uarry 'vith loose rubbish about it. The river now became con-
(lacted, and formed an easy lapid, upon the northern bank of which
I made our first cache of pemmican, nearly opposite to a little sand-
liill. The stream soon became wider, and opened into a lake so
c.)inpletely blocked up with ice as to arrest our progress, and at (J
I'. M. we encam?ied.

!\l'Kay and Sinclair were immediately despatched, one on cither
side of the lake, (o find out the most likely part for getting through.
Hut while they were absent, a light breeze fiom ihe N.W. sprung up,
and opened a channel along the western shore, barred only by two
pieces of ice, which were jammed against the point nearest us.
rhrough these a passage was cut; and on the return of the men,
who, I was sorry to hear, had seen another lake covered with ice,
(he boat was hauled carefully on, and for three or four hundred
yards we were enable<l to use the oars ; a shift of wind then closed
(he heavier masses ahead; but, by cutting and p ding, we ultimately
succeeded in reaching open water, and at l'' r'iO,,, a.m. again pitched
ihe tent. As the boat leaked a little, she was left in the water; and,
to prevent her getting damaged from the tloatiog ice, the men slept
in her.

In the morning of the J)th there was more rain, so that we did
not get away before 10'' a. m. ; when it fortunately happened that a
narrow opening was formed inshore, and allowed of our crossing to
ihe eastern, which was the weather side, where there was a lane of
water as far as the low points allowed us to see A little more thati
ail hour's pulling, however, took us to the end ol it; and we fourul
iliat a reef of large stones, cased in ice, divided it from another lane.
Ill ice being in shallow water, was porous and roKeti, so that it
Molded to the united cflect of the axe and the weight of the men ;
iiid, at the expiration of an hour and a half, the boat was got
through, though not without some awkward scrapings.

An easy rapid, and the shelving ^hore of a sand-hdl, rather en-
' I'laged the hope that the river would turnout favourably, but
that illusion was soon dispelled by a verj long rapid immcdiatel\
•'K'ceeding, whcic the l)oat was only saved hy all li.iiid^ jiim|'ii',j',

' .:

\

^i

'

1

1

i

9

H m

1

'Ml

It

KiO

IMMINENT DANGliin.

f-

f%

into llie bieakeiis, and keepint^ lier stern up the stream until slir
was cleared lioni a rock that had biought her up. VVe had haidlv
lime to f^et into our places again, when we were carried with con-
siderable velocity past a rivei' which joined Ironi the westward ; a
rapid then lollowcd; after which another tributary was observed
coiiMug from the same quarter.

The hills in that direction did not exceed three hundred feet in
height, and often not (ifty ; hut they had the same sterile appear
auce, and were spotted with the same dark fragments of rocks oi
stones as those already passed. On the eastern side sandy l)ank>
were frequently met with, which gradually rose into acclivitieji, or
gently sloping mounds, with small streandefs winding round their
bases, allbrding pasturage to musk-oxen and deer. The latter
scauqiered away as we approached, but the former stood stupidly
gazing at us : luckily for them, we were not in want of their car-
casses.

An island, near the centre of the river, with thin columns of
mist rising suspiciously at quick intervals on each side, made it ne-
cessary to land. Having ascertained that there was, as had been
expected, a fall, we carried the baggage below it, and the boat was
then biought down in a manner which convinced me that M'Kay
and Sinclair thoroughly understood their business; for, by dexterons
jnanagement in the rush of the fall, they avoided the principal dan-
ger, and the boat swept into the eddy with the ease and buoyancy
ofa water-fowl. The stream was very irregular in Us dimensions,
foi" it was now a quarter of a mile broad, and continued so loi
nearly three miles, when it contracted into two hundred yards,
and, running in a serpentine direction, formed a series of no less
than live rapids, augmented by two streams from the westward. A
still siicet of water, bounded to the right by mounds and hills of wiiiic
sand, with patches of rich herbage, where numerous deer werefeed
ing, brought us to a long and appalling rapid, full of rocks and large
boulders; the sides hemmed in by a wall of ice, and the current flyint;
with the velocity and force of a torrent. The boat was lightened
of her cargo, and I stood on a high rock, with an anxious heart, to
.^ec her run it. I had every hope which confidence in the jud;,'-
luent and dexterity of my principal men could inspire; but it \va>
impossible not to feel that one crash would be fatal to the expedition
A^^ay they went, w ilh the speed of an arrow, and in a moment llic
foam and rocks hid (hem from mv \ic\v. 1 heard what sounded ir

„i (,;

I'LUN'DIiR OK I'E.M.MICAN.

107

m

jny ear like a wild shriek, and saw Mr. King, w ho was a iiundred
yards before me, make a sign with his gun, and then run forward.
I followed, witli au agitation which may be conceived; and, to my
unexpicssible joy, found that the shriek was the triumphant whoop of
the crew, who had landed safely in a small bay below, I could not
but reward them with a glass of grog a-piece, and they immediately
applied themselves to the fatiguing work of the portage, with as
much unconcern as if they had only crossed a inill-pond. It grew
late before this last task was accomplished, and then 31alley was
missing. Some of the men were despatched in search of him ; and
at length he returned, heartily tired with rambling among swamps
and rocks, having lost himself in consequence of deviating from the
course of the river. Such incidents (among voi/df/eurs) generally
afford a name to the spot where they happen; so, to conform to the
usage, I called this Malley's Kapid.

On opening another bag ofpemmican to-night, the upper part
was found to be mouldy, as if it had been wet: on removing it, a
stone was found, and a further examination led to the discovery
of layers of mixed sand, stones, and green meat — the work of some
rascally Indian, who, having pilfered the contents, had adopted this
ingenious device to conceal his peculation, .\nd well indeed it
must have been managed, since it had escaped the experienced eye
of Mr. U'Leod, who considered the whole to be in good order.
As it was now uncertain whether we might not be carrying a heap
of stones instead of provision, every bag underwent a severe probing,
and, much to our satisfaction, the remainder proved sound and
well-tasted.

For five days the sun had been visible only thrice, and this night
and the morning of the 10th were so rainy, that, with an intricate
piece of water before us, we did not venture to stir, until a short
respite tempted us to try what could be done. The rapid was
wedged in between two hills that forbade all landing in case of an
accident : so to guard against consequences, as far as possible, I had
tiic guns, ammunition, and instruments carried, and thought it ad-
visable to direct the same precaution to be observed at every rapid
throughout the river navigation. We had but just started when
the rain poured down as usual, bringing with it a cold northerly
wind, and a log which, shutting oul fiom view the rucks under water,
added to the dilUculty, already sulhciently great, of worming oul
a passage in a strong current, broken by shoals and shaip stones so

( *t
,11

ia

ill

fkmh

i y

fiirHJ

^'d

m.

1

»

1

ftii

Ik

■

■IE'

II

->;

V

[1 11

108

HOISTEUOLS WEATIIEH

as not lo allow ol a luonient's indecision. Anotlier rapid and a
portage took us to what would have been still water, had not tin;
wind crested it with white waves considerable enough to prove ijic
buoyancy and dry qualities of the boat, which, considering how
deeply she was laden, took in very little water. The only peculiariiv
in the scenery was the striking contrast ol' the white sand-banks
with the irregular rocky hills in the distance, which were ol'a glooni\
grayish hue, scarcely cidivcncd by the dull green of the vegetation
with which they were thinly covered. Occasionally we passed some
low islands, and many deer were feeding in the prairies on eillici
side. From a narrow we emerged into a w ide space, which varioih
cliffy banks to the left induced me lo think would lake a bend tu
the westward ; but, on getting there, an opposite current was foiiiul,
which was subsecpiently discovered to be owing to the junction ol
another large river. The log then hecame so dense, that tl.e neaioM
land was concealed from our view ; and perceiving that we weir
drawn towards a rapid, we pulled hastily for the shore, and en-
camped. The magnitude of objects, as is well known, is incroasid
in such an atmosphere; and some ice that still adhered to eitlioi
side wore so formidable an aspect that, together w illi the roar ol
the rapid, it made us really glad to be safe on shore.

The 1 1th commenced with heavy rain and a gale from the N.W,,
which did not lull throughout the day ; we weie consequently pre-
vented from moving, as the boat could not be taken down the rapids
on account of the spray hiding the rocks, as well as the impossibi-
lity of keeping her under contiol. Instead of decreasing with the
decline of the sun, the gale freshened, and became far more boisle
rous. ISeitlicrdid the morning of the 12th bring any change I'oi
the better: the squalls were more violent ; and even with the slicltei
of a high bank, the tent was with dilliculty saved from being swept
down. In the former expeditions larther we^it, we had never expe-
rienced an extiaordinary quantity of rain ; indeed the conlrar\
might rather have been remarked; and if it sometimes blew nion
fresh than usual, the gale seldom lasted more than twelve or twenty-
four hours at most, and was generally follov^ed by line warm wea
ther. IJut here was a combination of foul and boisterous weather
a very chaos of wind and storm, against which it was vain to
struggle.

July 13th was still iia/y with showers, but my patience \va>>
exhausted ; and at 5 a. m. we started, and found ourselves in what

OliSHKVATIONS.

I(i>.)

itiiglit be called a continuous rapid, which alUM- a few miles was
joined by a stream Irom the left, divided at its conlluence by an
island near the centre. Near this was a lake, riillled by a head
wind, against which we had some difficulty in making way. Two
or three hundred deer, and apart from them herds of musk-oxen,
were either grazing or sleeping on its western banks, which looked
j^'ieen and swampy, and were all more or less cloven by incon-
siiierable ravines, with a clayey surface. These soon disappeared
111 the rising ground, which, broken by isolated rocks naked and
lilack, had its bouiidary in a semicircular range of irregularly
>liaped hills.

For the first time in nine days the sun shone out in the morning,
and I eagerly took occasion of the welcome visit to get sights; whilst
111 llie meantime our hunters, unable to resist the templing neighbour
liood of so many animals, and fidgetty to try their new guns, were
allowed to go in pursuit, with the express stipulation, however,
iliat they were not to lire at the does or the last year's fawns. In
less than an hour they returned with four bucks, which were just be-
ginning to get into condition. The change of food was palalablc
enough to all parties ; but as we had abundance of provision, and
lie boat was already too much lumbered, ! discouraged all such
|iuisuils for the present.

The result of the observations gave the latitude (55" 88' 21' N.,
and longitude I0('>°85' 23 " W. This, as to the former, agreed
very well with the c'ead reckoning, but gave the latter more to the
eastward. Having examined a line of deep rapids that had a clear
ioaf|,wedid not hesitate to run them with full cargo, and in so doing
passed some singularly serrated and riiisged hills, which, stretching
ii'om the limit of view in round and naked masses, dipped into the
Auter with a curiously diversified stratification at an angle of 170*.
\ white wolf, some geese, and partridges with young ones,
wcic observed here. A small tributary c;uue in from the left, and
ilieiice the river spread itself into several branches, which not a
litlle j)uzzlcd me; though, as we were then situated, the righi
channel for our purpose was obviously that which trended lo the
westward of north. Accordingly we pulled towards that branch,
and shortly opened a view to the S. I'L, so extensive that the ex
U'cnie distance was definable only by a faint blue line.

I was a little alarmed at such a syphon-likdurn; yet I endeavoured
" persuade myself that the river would r:ot ultiiiialely deviate so

t'.

mi

no

nriscFiii'TroN or tiik countuv

very far Irom its original course, and went on to llie wosun,
inlet. Ilowevci, as we advanced the opening assumed a uuik
circular appearance, and llie altitudes of the boundary hills horaiiu
more and more eijual and unbroken, until at last, when we goi
fairly to the entrance, it was evidently only a bay. Hut though it
could not be concealed that a range of low mountains, stretcliint;
in a direction N. W. and S. V]., seemed to oppose an insurmouiUahli
barrier to the onward course of the river in the direction of iii\
hopes, yet, as there was one part unexamined, where a strong ripph;
with white waves had been seen, I was unwilling to abandon al!
hope until it liad been ascertained what that ripple was. Accord
ingly a party crossed overland, and soon saw that the foam Nva>
caused by a heavy rapid which fell into the river at that part. }\\
disappointment and uneasiness may be conceived. All my plan«
and calculations rested on the assumption of the northerly course tit
the river; but this determined bend to the S. E. and the formidablt
barrier ahead seemed to indicate a very difl'erent course, and a
determination not, as had been anticipated, in the Polar Sea, hut in
Chesterneld Inlet. However, be the issuewhat it might, HudsonV
IJay or thePolarSea — I had no alternative but to make for tin
S. E. We were at this time little more than a degree to the soiitli-
ward of the confluence of Back's lliver with Bathurst's Inlet ; bin
all hope that this river would prove identical with the Thlcw-et-
choh, or that the latter would trend to the westward, was ulterK
extinguished. Our proximity to the coast, however, explained llie
cold and dreary weather which had lately incommoded us.

A fresh and fair wind now relieved the men from the labour ol
the oars, and we ran imder the foresail (a lug) until 8 r. m. ; when,
being stopped by a ridge of ice reaching from shore to shore, dirccllj
athwart our course, \vc hauled into a deep bay, and secured the
boat in snug shelter under the lee of the weather land. The tem-
perature had scarcely varied from 42°, and there was a chilliness
in the wind which blew from the coast that made cloaks and blankets
very acceptable. Towards the close of the day's journey, the countiv
assumed a more mountainous and imposing appearance, but con-
tinued rugged and desolate. Many parts bore a close resemblance
to the lava round Vesuvius, the intermediate spaces being filled up
with green patches of meadow, which literally swarmed with deer.
not fewei" than twelve or lifteen hundred having been seen witliin
the last twelve hours.

\ SKItlKS OK CASCAOKS.

171

I llli ol July. — During llio night, tlie wind vtH'icd a couple ol
|H)iiilti, to llie nortlnvaid, and increased to a gale, wliich jnado it
iiii|)0ssibl«' to move with our cargo. Hut, wishing to ascertain if
ilicre was any prospect ola lead through the ice inshore, the boat
u;ii> sent (juitc light, with directions to the steersman to land, and
isaininc the whole length along the western edge; and, at the same
nine, to see if the nature of the ground would allow ol" our making
;i portage. At 8 a. m. he returned, with a re|)ort that the ice
was closely packed, with so heavy a surf running that any attempt
;i) approach it might stave the boat: while the land side, he said,
was equally impraticable, owing to the unevenness of the rocks.
Tliere was, therefore, nothing left, but to remain patiently until a
iliange of wind or its violence should demolish the ice and make a
passage for us. This accordingly was gradually eilected, and about
sunset we had the satisfaction to perceive a clear space, so far as
luiild be judged up to the blue land in the distance. We now,
ilierefore, only waited for an abatement of gale to take advantage
«l this good fortune.

The night was squally ; but the wind having somewhat moderated,
ue got away at 5 o'clock on the following morning, Jidy 15th, the
ilim mometer then standing at JiS". The stream still carried us to
tiic south-east, and though the dillerent bays and openings to the
westward were anxiously examined, in the hope that a passage
might be found through one of them, the land was found conti-
nuous, and still bore to the eastward. By 10 a. m. the mountains
liad dwindled to hills, which soon gave place to sand-banks, espe-
cially to the right; an ominous indication of the future course of the
^iieani. The lake, which I have named after my friend Captain
Hcechey, visibly decreased in breadth ; and at length discharged
iiself by what, from the loud roar that was heard long before we got
loit, was conjectured to be a fall, but which was found to be in
lad an awful seiies of cascades, nearly two miles in length, and
making, in the whole, a descent of about sixty feet. The right bank
was the most favourable for a portage, which we commenced with-
out loss of time,wlii!e the two steersmen were despatched to examine

I the falls. Their lep-jit was, " that it was possible the boat might
be got down, hut they did not see how she ever could be got up
again;" a consideration of no great moment yet, when we were not

lout of walkin--^ distance from the house, whatever it might become^
allerwards. Accordingly, having couiplclod the ptirlago, and made

\ w

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

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Photographic

Sciences

Lorporation

l.« SVEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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■•

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172

KAFIDS AND CASCADES.

another cache ol penunican and fat, tu which was addci a spair
oar, the trial was made with the hoat. She was first lilted ovei
some obstacles, and then lowered cautiously down the diilereni
descents; and so alternately lifted, launched, and lowered, until blic
was safely brought to the eddy below, which being also rough, slir
was finally hauled on the gravel. The observations to-day gave
the latitude 65" 14' 44" N., longitude 106" 0' 53 ' W,, and variation
39" 12 E.; so that it appeared we had got considerably to the
southward and eastward of our position two days before. Tlie
country was still composed of the same variety of rocky hills and
swampy prairies, though the latter were far more extensive, and.
near the cascades, might be called plains, all thickly irihabited bv
deer.

July 16th. — We embarked before 4 a. m., and a strong cnncni
carried us to a broad part of the river, which, I was rejoiced to sec.
took a sudden turn to the northward ; but at a detached conical lidl,
somewhat farther on, it again bent suddenly to the southward, ami
as there was no passage perceptible at its farther extremity, tin
crew jocosely said we should be sucked under ground. llo\ve\i'i
an extremely sharp angle led us between cliffs in a coiitracled
channel into a rapid, at the fool of which ! was necessai'v to land
to avoid another, the waves of which were too high to allow ol in
being run with the cargo. When ligiitened, the boat ran it iiiiiii
jured. A loud roar of rushing water, heard for the distance ofabou:
a mile, had prepared us for a long line of rapids, which now ap
peared breaking their furious way through mounds and ranges i
precipitous sand-hills of the most fantastic outline. Some of I'ntiu
resembled parts of old ruins or turrets, and would have oIIVitJ
pleasing subjects for sketching. The course of the river bccani'
afterwards more tortuous, and its clear blue tint yielded to an olivf
green, more or less dark according to the character of the uuidd'.
tributaries which poured in their contents from both sides. .\s\\i'
drew away from the influence of the i)o\i\ winds coming Iroiu
Uathuist's Inlet, a propoitionate and most agreeable change tool
place in the weather, and at 2 r. m. of this day the thermoineUi
stood at 68' in the shade, and 8 f" in the sun. We glided (piiclK
along with the strong current, |>assing by peaked sand-hills, wlmli
rose like artificial structtues amidst low shelving prairies, coveivd
with deer to the amount of many thousamls. Alter crossing a small
lake, whcie (he current could just he «lis(inguished in llic ceiiln,

LANDIMARKS.

\Vi

ijic stream again contracted to about three liimdred yards, and pro
iipilated itself over a bed ol rocks, forming rapids and cascades,
whicli compelled us to carry the principal baggage; a precaution,
indeed, never omitted when there was the least appearance of
danger. Three detached and iofty hills of gneiss, with obtuse
conical tops quite bare, here formed conspicuous objects. From
Jie level character of the land to the eastward, they could be seen
it a great distance, and might thus serve as marks for any wan
Icrers whom chance or design should bring to this far country.

Indeed, that they had already been made use of for this purpose
>eemed to be indicated by numbers af piled stones, precisely similar
,n figure to those which I remembered to have seen along the banks
ol the Copper-mine River, as well as by some trenched divisions of
,'iound, containing the moss-covered stones of circular encamp-
ments, evidently the work of the Es(|uimaux, on whose frontiers we
iiad arrived. I confess that these une(|uivocal traces of the "shi-
g eiing tenants" of the arctic zone did not a little surprise me; since
nlormer occasions we had not found them at a distance fiom the
i(ias(. Was it possible, I asked myself, thai we were nearer the
«ea than I had imagined? It was not likely that they had come
Ironi Hathurst's Inlet, though not more than one hundred and se-
venteen miles off, for that lay to the north-west, and they would
all on the river much nearer, namely, at the western extreinity of
lake Heechcy. On the other hand, if they came IVoni the east-
ward, were they from Chesterlield Inlet, the western or nearest
lermination of which, according to Arrowsmith's map, was not less
•lian one hundred and fifty-eight miles? liy a uiinulc inspection of
;lifi marks, I was at U'ngth satisfied that they all pointed N. K. and
S. W. with as much precision as if they had been so placed by
Dinpass, and hence concluded that it was in the foriuer bearing that
we might expect to (ind the Kscpiimaux; though, whether far or
near, we had as yet no means of d«!termining.
The river, from an imposing width, now gradually contracted to
change lo'kBabont fifty yards, and this narrow space had projecting I'ocks which
thermoineli'iBfompressed the passage still more. In the language of rojiot/t'iirs,
lidcd (juickKBiliis form is denominated a spout; and the only danger attending
il-hills, whirliBilie going through it is the risk of being thrown into the eddy at an
ries, covomllmfavourable moment; in which case, some serious accident issuie
)ssing a sniaillio occur. We ran this one, and were lilted considerably higher
I the ccnli'.l lian the side water, as we shot down with fearful velocitv. Kami-

\(jA a s|)ai (
lifted ovei
\\e dilVercnt
;d, until she
> rough, slit'
o-day gave
nd variation
ably to the
efore. The
i\ hills and
Lensive, and.
inhabited h\

rong ciincni

joiced to see.

1 conical lull,

thward, ainl

xtremity, ilir

llowesei.

a contraeleit

ssary to laiiii

o allow ol II-

ran it \iiii!i

anoe of ahou

liich now ail

nd ranges i

ome of theiiij

lave otTi'ied

ivcr bccaiii''

d to an ori\('|

of the niiidil'. i
(les. .Vs\\e|

coming IVoml

■1

IP

^^

W

171

HAILLIE'S lUVEU

liar as I was with such scenes, I could not but leel thankful that we
escaped safe, and determined lor the future to lower down all others
The stream after these agitations settled into a calm though not voiv
gentle current, which swept us opposite a magnillcent river, as broad
as the Thames at Westminster, joining the Thiew-ee-choh from ilie
eastward. Some Esquimaux marks on the banks seemed to point
this out as their line of route; and I was far from being convintej
that it was not the The-lew, however much that opinion mii'lit be
at variance with the accounts we had received from the Inclians.'
Whatever it was, it received the name of Haillle's Uiver, after niy
worthy friend, George Baillie, Esquire, Agent General for (Vown
Colonies. Not a great way from this we encamped ; and some ex-
planations having been made to the crew, as to the caution wliidi
the smallness of our number rendered necessary, a regular ivatch
was established, in which IMr. King undertook to look out from 10
I'. M. to 4 A. M., the usual hour of starting.

The following morning, instead of gaining to the westward, which
various gleams of open water in that direction had again led us to
hope, the river turned short round to the eastward; but after tlupe
or four miles, again resumed its old course. Sand-banks and inlands
were constantly met with ; and from our ignorance of the channels
between them, we were repeatedly aground. In these cases, the
people had to wade until the boat again iloated freely, with the
chance of being thrown into the same situation ten minutes after-
wards. Since the junction of Haillle's Uiver, the stream had sen-
sibly widened ; and had it not been for the strong current, might
have been taken for a lake. It was bordered on either side bv a
low sandy district, studded with a few inconsiderable rocky hills,
mostly detached, and a mile or two from each other. Kven these
soon disappeared, giving place to an alluvial deposit, so flat as scarce-
ly to rise beyond the general horizontal line, and to raise our
hopes of being near the sea; a notion rendered more probable l)ya''""^^"newa
the great resemblance of the country to the western mouth of the* '''1^'^^^^'°" ^'
IM'Kenzie. Once, indeed, some of the party imagined that they sawB "^^^•^^'e»', i lo
tents; but these, as we advanced, proved to be nothing but a soli-«"^ "'^ steers
tary and luxuriant border of fine willows, the secure retreat of him-'l^'''"|*"y anxiou

dreds of geese, which having lately cast their large quill feathers,j'^" '^^ ^^^ sho

rp'liicnt, thou

, . . . - ''•'^e latitudes,

" From a niinnto inquiry mado aftrrwanls, I navp ovpry reason (o lirlipvc tnaOH . . r •

Uic Tho-lpw falls into Clioslprlipld Inlet. ■'' '''"''•'^ ^* "'©

were unah
running, lli
water — wli
recourse to
beads and a
ind still oft
fair run for
ilirough wh
Jouble on tl
'ons which
The low
presented ar
ilier Captai
Dock Y'ard.
lids, but of
'ess. Again
liiver, anoth
Idw sandy op
:lie northern
pearcd to ex
0 the north-
lie rapids be
leic; but ne
inless they si
bservations
!l)3" 33' 8" \
lad made ne
lurling waves
ourse now la
ieto contend
isthev recede

:t.,'l

OBSERVATIONS.

\:b

hat w e
others,
ot very
s hroad
rom llie
0 point
nvimeJ
lisdil be
11(1 iaps,"
liter my
■ Crown
.oiiic e\-
n which
ar ^vaU'h
iVom 10

were unable to i\y; though, aided by instinct and good legs for
running, they frequently ehided our most active hunters. If in the
^^jter — which, however, they took all pains to avoid — they had
recourse to diving; and on rising to breathe, merely exposed their
lieads and a small part of the back, so that often they were not seen,
ind still oftener missed when lired at. On land, they either had a
fair run for it, or plunijed into any cover that happened to be near;
through which, however thick, they waddled sufliciently quick to
Jnable on their pursuers, and lead them into many ludicrous situa-

ons which called forth the merriment of the rest.

The low land was now diversilied by occasional mounds; and

iresented an opening to the left causei by a river which was called
1 alter Captain Superintendent Sir Samuel Warren, of Woolwich
iDock Yard. The banks here vvcre higher, sometimes rising into

lifls, but of the same dry and sandy character, barren luid cheer-
lless. Again, trending more to the eastward, we passed .lervoise

iiver, another large tributary from the right ; and then came to a
[low sandy opening, which seemed to be completely shut in, until at
hlie northern limit a rapid channel led us among some rocks that ap-
Ipearcd to extend from an adjacent height towards a range of hills

othe north-west. The sun being too low to allow of our running

he rapids before us, we encamped. There weie some musk-oxen

iierc; but neither they nor even the deer or geese were startled,
inless they saw some one actually going towards them. The ob-
bservations to-day gave the latitude (m*- J)' 12' N., longitude

\[\)V 33' 8" W., and the variation 30" G' E.; thus showing that we
iiad made nearly all easting. The threatening appearance of the
curling waves, and the roar and gloom of a defile along which our

I oiirse now lay, rendered it necessary to examine what there might
k' to contend with among the frowning rocks, which, overlapping

jjsthey receded, seemed to the eye as if they blocked up the passage.
Sometime was unavoidably spent in doing this; and the report wasan

levpression of the same sort of doubt as on a former occasion. This,

lliowever, I looked for as of course; for it could not be expected
hat the steersmen, however excellent in their capacity, should be

leiiually anxious to proceed as myself: their predictions of the difli-

Icii'ties we should encounter on our return were, on the contrary.
'rei|iicnt, though I parried them by referring to my experience in
iiosc latitudes, and to the entire alteration produced by the different
i)rlieve iiutl ,j,|,jj^,|j, Q|-^i,e geasou in the character of the rivers; with which rea-

'^

vt-

I

W

nci

AnvKNTLUt; or a fox.

soilings ihey were generally satisfied. It may perhaps appear lo
some persons that to persuade (hose vvhouj I might have coiiunandtd
was a gratuitous and unnecessary trouble; but it should be borne in
inind <hal,in services not purely military, the parly is not, and canuot
be, brought under strict habits of discipline. The success ol snrli
an expedition depends materially on the temper and disposition ol
the leading men, who must sometimes be reasoned with, and a(
others kept in check, as circumstances may direct. It is nccossar\
that they should I'eel a conlidence in and attachment to their leader,
not paving a mere sulky obedience to his orders; and what (hey do
will thus be done heartily and with good will, not as the cold Inllil-
ment of a contract.

I*!arly in the following morning we pushed out into the beginniiii;
of (he rapids, when the boat was^irled about in whirlpools a;.;ainst
the oais ; and but for the amazing strength of M'Kay, w ho slcirod,
it must inevitably have been crushed against the faces of the pro-
truding rocks. As we entered (he delile, the rocks on the rl^^li!
presented a high and perpendicular front, so slaty and regular ilm
it needed no force of imagination to suppose (hem severed at mv
great blow from the opposite range; which, craggy, broken, and
overhanging, lowered in stralilied and many-coloured masses l.n
above the chafing torrent. There was a <lcep and settled gloon; mi
the abyss — the clfect of which was heightened by (he hollow km
of the rapid, slill in deep shade, and by the screamiug of throe lam'
hawks, which IVighlened from their aerie were hovering high alxn,"
the middle of (he pass, and gazing (ixedly upon the first in(riid»i>
on their soliliule; so that I felt relieved as it were from a load \\li.;i
we once moie burst forth into (he briglit sunshine of day. Tlic bcu
was then allowed to diive with the curreni, the velocity ofwhu:.
was not less than six miles an hour, among whirlpools and t:ddii«,
which strangely bulleted her about. The men, glad to rest froiiii
their oars, were either carelessly looking at lie objects which ihrv
passed, or vvhilling the ever welcome pipe, w''en something was set ,i
swimming a little ahead, which was laken for a young lawn. A^
we nearly touched it in passing, the bowman, almost without lookiHf;,
stretclied out his hand to grasp it; but drew il in again as quick asi
lightning, and springing up for the boat-hook, called out, " H— I'l
it, it has bit me! it's a fox." 1 would not allow it lo be fired at ; aiiiij
lleynard gained the bank, and skipped about as if enjoving the link
he had played.

Still wi(

large enoi

borders of

the slopinf

vanccd stil

as broad £

country to

round a I

.M'Kinley,

voyages of

soon chan^

masses on i

we (hough I

jeneral opii

there by tl^

arriving op

jesty's Cons

marks were

eminences j

frightening i

course, or a

I think the

of marks the

high part, ol

tlie sloped

which the hii

stations; wli

bill also bet

useful as a c(

lron» one to J

i he bread

Ijalf; and, v

north. The

ol ravines, c

rocks, which

soil to the w

away the lig

of their ravaj

cluster of isia

with willows

ES<^LIMAl\ "MARKS.

ni

OW 10,1

1 al)o\i'
ilniili ;«
III \\li*':i

\]C l)0,it

if wiiici
fdilii-

■;>[ IVt'lil

ic!i ihiv
was sciM
iwii. A''

(liiick a-
• l)-n

l1 al ; and
ilio Irii^

Still widenin;. the river rolled on without ohstiuctiou, heiii}; heru
large enough to remind ine of the M'Kenzie. Heavy and long
borders of thick ice, with a great deal of snow, were on the sides of
the sloping banks, full ten feel above the present level. As we ad-
vanced still most provokingly to the eastward, a large river, nrarlv
as broad as that which we were descending, came through a low
country to the right, and after many windings elTecled a junction
round a little sandy bluff. It was named after Uear-Admiral
M'Kinley, who has uniformly evinced a great interest in the recent
voya{;es of discovery. The land then became more uneven, and
soon changed into hills, partly composed of bare rocks, with loose
masses on them. On one, indeed, something higher than the rest,
we thought for a long lime there was a man; but afterwards .he
jeneral opinion determined it to be a heap of stones, possibly placed
ihere by the Escpiimaux. And this was the more probable, as on
arriving opposite to another wide tributary, called, after his Ma-
jesty's Consul at New York, Ihichanan's Iliver, a great number of
marks were seen distributed at |)arlicular points, and on commanding
eminences along the banks, apparently for the purpose of either
frightening the deer, which were plentiful as usual, into a particular
course, or as places of ambush when in quest of them. The latter
Ithink the more likely; because at certain distances along the line
of marks there were semicircular skreens built of stones, having the
high part, of from two to three feet, towards the open country, and
ilie sloped or exposed side facing the river, under the banks of
which the hunters would be efTectually hid in passing to their lurking
stations; while even if the deer were not only in front of the marks,
but also bet\yeen them and the water's edge, they raig'at still be
useful as a cover, and a communication might be kept up by crawling
from one to another.

I'he breadth of the river now varied from a quarter to a mile and
lialf; and, what exceedingly delighted me, it made a bend to the
north. The country became decidedly hilly, with an odd mixture
oi ravines, conical sand-hills with black mossy tops, and isolated
rocks, which rose like sombre fortresses over the green and yellow
soil to the westward. It looked as if constant Hoods had washed
away the lighter earth, and left those solid masses as monuments
of their ravages. We made for a distant blue peak, and passed a
cluster of islands ; one of which w as remarkable for being overgrown
Willi willows, while its neighbours were as sterile as the deserts

h

I7S

blXLEN RIVEU.

Keeping close to the western shore, we rounded a jutting point, and
opened upon a deep hay which received the waters of a broad river.
This river has been named after my much respected friend Captain
Superintendent Sir Charles Bullen, of Pembroke Dock Yard, under
whose command I had once the happiness to serve. It is dilliculi
to conjecture where it may take its rise; but from the powerful
effect upon the current at two miles below itii mouth, there can he
no doubt that an immense body of water flows through its channel.
A little beyond, a wide westerly bay almost tempted us to search
for an outlet, the current having now got so slack as to be imper-
ceptible; and numerous islands and openings at different bearings
occasioned some embarrassment as to the course, until, after pullinir
inshore a little, the loom of a large sheet of ice arrested our attempt
in that quarter; and having again regained the current, we yielded
ourselves to its guidance, and were again led to the eastward.

The weather had been variable, and the thermometer as high as
68", in the afternoon ; but the sky suddenly became overcast, and
heavy black clouds rolled from the N. W., which, bursting with
violent squalls, poured down rattling showers of sleet. The storm,
however, passed away, and the evening was fine enough to draw out
some swarms of mosquitoes, that failed not to "take the goods the
gods provided," when we encamped, as we were obliged to do,
on the edge of a swamp. From the more hilly character and
general trending of the shore, I entertained a hope that we should
soon be led to the north ; and most devoutly did I wish to arrive
at the gneiss formation, being certain that to reach the sea in the
desired direction, the river must cut its way though rocks of some
kind, as 1 had previously observed in the Coppermine and
M'Kenzie. Inmydesire to gainsome further knowledge of the course,
I ascended a distant hill, from the summit of which, with the help
of my glass, 1 could discern several extensive sheets of water ia
almost opposite bearings, one of them being due south; but owing to
the intervention of rocks, and uneven ground for about two miles iii
the line of my view, it was impossible to determine whether they
were separate or formed one continuous water. The doubt, however,
was cleared up' at an early hour on the succeeding morning (July
1 9th) ; for the current, to which we yielded ourselves, in a short time
lost itself in a large lake, full of deep bays ; one, indeed, with a
clear and uninterupted horizon, but glimmering with firm ice.

Having taken a more northerly course than before, and passed two

fellings

m island

From thi<^

ilmost ei

Licvak/ I

norkmanj

»ome pan

I :lioname <

lie lludso

I^oaving

Aliiclitlieli

'111' e.\ertio

I ibundance

'oUsle sail

I old them b

ht the sea, i

ml no Indi

(eastward, b

rysodoingv

1 liis the boat

j?asily walk i

hould also

I'onsiderably

lONJECTLKKS OF AN INDIAN.

nil

i|)euingH or about nrieen and twenty miles in extent, we landed on
ill island for the pnrpc.e of making a third cache of peinmican.
Worn this point I got cross bearings, and a view of another opening
ilinost entirely covered with unbroken ice : a piece of an old
Licyak,* blanched with age, and other remnants of Esquimaux
workmanship, showed that the place was frequented by them at
some part of the year. The opening itself was distinguished by
ho nam.e of Lake Pclly, after the liberal and spirited Governor of
he Hudson's Bay Company.

Lnaving the island, a slight current piloted us to a rapid, near
vhiclithelatitude was obtained, and informed us that indefatigable as
lur exertions had been, we had gained but little northing, and bad
|ihiindance of bard work in prospect before we should be permitted
t) taste salt water. As for the men, the majority inclined to a tale
old them by an Indian, whom I had not seen, — that before arriving
Lithe sea, thev would fine an immense lake, with such deep bays
Ikt no Indian had ever been round them; these he said, lay to the
Mslward, but they must be careful to keep on its western side, and
|uso doing would arrive at a steep and heavy fall between high rocks;
I his the boat would not be able to pass, but from thence they might
•asily walk to the " bad water;" near which, he assured them, they
i:\ould also certainly find the Esquimaux. It was true that we had
onsidcrably strayed from the direction thus indicated, and had
:omc more than double the distance at which the Indian placed the
m; but still, here was a large lake witli bays answering to the de-
licriptionjor it might be that we should come to another still larger;
|ii(er which, it was their opinion, the remainder would be verified.
The strong current from the rapid gave us some expectation that
Ik tediousness and uncertainty of winding and groping our way ia
k lake was at an end ; but, to our chagrin and annoyance, we soon
kain found ourselves in a wide indefinable space, studded with is-
[aods of sand-hills, with, occasionally, a clear horizon towards the
\\ and N. W. The difficulty of finding the river increased as we
lidvanced amid this labyrinth, between the openings of which distant
land could sometimes be faintly discovered. The unwelcome glare
|f ice was also seen. From time to time we found a current ; still
»e were baffled, and had often to turn on our track, only perhaps
|<J make another deviation. At length we observed a number of

Issed tvo

' Esqiiimanx canoe.

''i

■ ' i

l!^

ij'

ill

<1 Hi

I. r

\i

n

II

ISO

RNCAMP ON AN ISLAND.

grayling playing in a narrow, and rising at the (lies which fell acci
dentally into tlic water; and aware that these lish usually frc'(|uent
the outlets and channels ol' connecting water, we profited by (he
hint, and so far had reason to be salislied with our judgment. Hm
towards evening our hopes wcrcf again blighted by the startling sight
of extensive and unbroken lields of ice, stretching to the extinneM
point of vision. Seeing, therefore, no ciiance of further progrcs>
at present, I encamped on a spot which, judging from theciicii.s ol
stones found regularly placed, had doubtless at some time been iisnl
by the Esquimaux for the same purpose.

We were on an island; and ridges and cones of sand were no'
only of great height, but singularly crowned with immense bouidoi.".,
grey with lichen, which assuredly would iiave been considered
as having been placed by design, had not the impossibility of moving
such enormous masses proved incontestibly that it was Natures
work. It was with indescribable sorrow that I beheld from one
of these boulders a firm field of old ice, which had not yet been
disturbed from its winter station. The nearest land was a bold
rocky bluff about ten miles to the nortluvard, but receding thcnco
to an indistinct outline; the southward view offered nothing more
encouraging, for the shore in tliat direction was low and distant;
while to tbe eastward, which was manifestly our course, a black line,
supposed to be water, just bordered the horizon. The whole of
this expanse was sealed with ice; and with the exception of a lane
of open water from our encampment to a sand-hill in the south-
west, and some small holes too remote from each other to serve any
purpose, there was not a place that could with any certainty be fixed
on as affording a passage. Nevertheless the attempt was made the
next morning a little past 3 a. m.; and though without the slightest
idea of getting beyond the sand-hill, I directed the steersman to ^ and breaking
pull for it: in doing which we soon lost all traces of the current. ■ bat and car
The lane grew narrower as we proceeded, until there was barely ■cautiously th
room for the boat to pass with the poles. The ice here, l.ii» nearly all rlaj
from being decayed, was two feet thick, green, and compact, an* attempt fo pa
gave ominous token of what was in reserve for us further northB to lighten the

Having arrived at our L'ltima Thule, we ascended the highest hill that paved th
near; but only to see one wide and dazzling field of ice extendinland after mal
far away in every direction, and presenting a uniform bed of sharj rotten part,sh
and ragged points, that would have ground the keel to powder haBand again loa^
we tried to launch across it. As for carrying, the wood was rauc|iand by using tl

100 sojdei

>icersmen

skilful in

were dosp

Miiglit hav(

ihey reluri

siiocess, an

lould not b

body. No

lontrary, tl

had cnibart

iiil to them

fulness in p

would try v

by means ol

tlie N. E., it

ilieEsquima

ilic river but

ilic ice betwi

that if we c^

though appai

radiation of

by making a

ing the open

ihe people W(

iheir diflicu

imaginary evi

For sever;

sometimes we

I '

I ace I
L'(iiicni
by ihc
It. Hilt
g sirIk
Ireinesl
rn}5r('s>
•cleb ol
vn iisrd

'Pn; no'
[)uUloi>.
isidcrcd
inovinf!;
Nature's
I'Oin oiu!
^ct been
s a bold
g thcnco
n^ more
distant;
lack line,
tvliolc of
' a lane
e soulli-
ervc any
je lixed
made liie
slightest
sinan to
current.

\IK\V 01' Tin: COI'NTRV

mi

100 sodden and lieavy lo allow the tlionglit to be enleitained. The
>iceismen, whose long ac(|uaintance with inland ice had made them
skilful in discovering the ho.st way of overcoming such dillicultics,
were despatched to dillercnt stations, that by crossing the view they
might have the better chance ol'acciuiiing the necessary information;
iliey returned, however, with nothing but regrets at their want of
success, and did not hesitate to express an opinion tliat a passage
loiild not be reckoned upon until the natural disruption of the main
body. Nor was this the result of any 'ukewarmness; for, on the
roiilrary, they were zealous and hearty in the cause in which they
had embarked, and the expression of the opinion was evidently pain-
III! to them. Of this a proof was immediately given by their cheer-
fulness in preparing for a start when I was lieard to say that we
would try what old voynffcitrs could do. J had in fact discovered
by means of the telescope a slip of what 1 took to be water away to
die N. E., in which direction, from the invariable pointing of all the
die Esquimaux marks we had yet seen, 1 felt confident that not only
die river but the sea would be found. Patches also were visible In
die ice between the water ai d the opposite land ; and it was clear
diat if we could only get along the low southern shore, which,
though apparently unpromising, yet from its shallowness and greater
radiation of heat favoured the chance of a narrow lane, we might
by making a few portages be fortunate enough to succeed in reach-
ing the open water; and at all events, whether we reached it or not,
the people would be occupied, and prevented from brooding over
their diflicultics, and alarming themselves with the anticipation of
imaginary evils.

For several hours we continued to creep slowly lo the south,
sometimes wedged in the ice, at others cutting through it with axes,
and breaking huge masses away, — now bringing the weight of the
lioat and cargo to act, then lifting her with fenders on each side
cautiously through the openings; and thus was the way groped
nearly all aay, till, as the sun got low, a shallow part defied every
attempt to pass it. In vain did the people wade and carry the pieces
to lighten the boat; still slie would not lloat over the large stones
that paved the bottom. The ice, therefore, was the only chance ;
and after making a portage for some distance over an extremely
rotten part, she was absolutely lifted over the remaining obstructions
and again loaded ; after which our progress was more satisfactory,
and by using the same means, though at greater intervals, we at length

r

ilil

\'i

IM^

LAKE (;AHKV.

u

(at 9 p. M.) reached the open water with a strong current^ hut
though the picturesque sand-bills seemed close to us, and the crew,
hair benumbed as they were from being so long in the water, c\ert«<i)
themselves to the utmost, and had moreover the aid of the cun-nit,
still, with all this, we did not reach land until past 10 i>. m. Our
observations placed us in latitude G5*48' 4"N., longitude U9' lO K;
W., with variation 29° 38' E.; and in sixteen hours we had only
come fourteen miles.

July 21st. — I examined the lake from the summit uf tlie hill
above our encampment, and found that the current which had he
friended us over night became powerless about two hundred yard^
farther on ; at which point the main body of the ice coiiimcu( ed
again,and stretched to an undeitnable distance, interrupted occaiiion
ally by jutting points, over which in som j places it was again
visible. A small southerly channel, however, led to some island^
and for these we steered, but soon became hampered with surround
ing ice. The same mode of proceeding was therefore adopted u&
on the preceding day; and in four hours we were lucky enough to
have advanced eight miles, though not in the direct lineof our course
Some open water was then seen to the north; and though doubllut
if the river would be in that quarter or more to the eastward, I stood
over for it, as the inclination of a line of sand-hills rather favoured
the former opinion. With a little difficulty we succeeded in reach-
ing a lane, which ultimately led us to the main land, against whose
rocky sides the ice again abutted. A portage was immediately made,
and the boat lifted over into the water. In ten minutes we weir
again slopped by ice, so thick that all our endeavours to cut a pas-
sage with the axes, and break it as had been hitherto done, were
utterly in vain. Another place, which seemed to offer fewer ob
stacles, was tried with the same result : we therefore landed and
made a second portage across the rocks, which brought us to a sheet
of water terminating in a rapid; and this, though seldom a
pleasing object to those who have to go down it, was now joyfulK
hailed by us as the end of a lake which had occasioned us so
much trouble and delay. In summer, however, or, more properl\
speaking, autumn, this lake must be a splendid sheet of water:
wherefore, regarding it apart from the vexations which it had caused
me,I bestowed upon it the name of Lake Garry, al^er Nicholas Garry,
Esq., of the Hudson's Bay Company, to whose disinterested zeal in
the cause of polar discovery, ai^d undeviating kindness lo all con

nected w

Kdward

superlluo

iiigantic Uoi

Miicdougul

Itiver. —

Illation. —

l^ishness o

Heaillaiid. ■

house. — 1

Montreal h

VI'Kay, etc

I'oint Ogle.

-• Ron., [sla

Richardson.

net to Iteger

CoNOaATU

newed spirit

of going int(

eastward, ai

iDto a brancJ

from twelve

clifT-broken

pass, but mt

direction tht

rocks visible

strewed in e

summits of c

previously mi

from its heigl

forming an e

iliermometer

the shade, wi

during the gi

Iwol; and at;

GIGANTIC BOL'LDERH

IH3

nt'Cted willi it, buch honourable tesliniony has been buriie by Sir
Kdward Parry a^:d Sir John Franklin, ihal lo dwell on them here i»
huperfluous.

CHAPTER XI.

(iigantic Boulders. — Danger from the Rapidd. — Course of the River. — Lak«
Macdougall. — Hazardous Passage. — Sinclair's Falls. — Northerly Bend of the
Hiver. — Mount Meadowhank. — Altitude of the Rocks. — The Trap For-
mation.— M'Kay's Peak. — Lake Frnnklir.. — Extrication trom Peril. — Slug-
gishness of the Compass. — Estjuimaux. — Portrait oi a Female. — Victoria
Headland. — Mouth of the Thiew-ec-choh. — Cockburu i.ay. — Point Back-
house. — Irby and Mangles' Bay. — Point Beaufort. — C" r i^rograss arrested. —
Montreal Island. — A Musk-ox killed. — Birds on the Islan-! — Elliot Bay. —»
M'Kay, etc. sent along the Coast. — Esquimaux Encampment. — Cape Hay. ->
Point Ogle. — Progress obstructed by the Ice. — A Piece of Drift-wood found.
— Ros . ifland. — Discoveries by Mr. King. — Magnetic Observations. — Point
Richardson. — Point Hardy. — Conjectures as to a N. W. Passage and Chan-
nel to Regent's Inlet.

CoNORATUiiATiNG onB another on our release, we went on with re-
newed spirits. Much ice was carried down the rapid, which, instead
of going into the wide space in front, was impelled suddenly to the
eastward, and thence again hurried by a strong northerly current
into a branch of another lake, the bays of which were not less than
from twelve to fifteen miles deep. Long ranges of conical and
cliif-broken sand-hills extended irregularly nearly round the com-
pass, but mostly to the northward and westward, towards which
direction the stream ran with immense force. There were no
rocks visible nearer than Lake Garry ; but gigantic boulders were
itrewed in every direction, and in two instances were seen on the
summits of conical and isolated sand-hills, much resembling those
previously mentioned. One of these was very conspicuous, as well
Irom its height as from its situation in the centre of the river, thus
forming an excellent mark for the rapid from any direction. The
thermometer had been as high as 102" in the sun, and was 56° in
the shade, with a S.E. wind, so as to create considerable refraction
during the greater part of the da;^ The evening, however, was
cool; and at a little past 8 p. m. we encamped.

'1

1

1

.

1

'1

A

1 ji

rl

' ''

i i

J84

COURSE OF THE RIVEU

II

The following day we got away at the usual hour, with the ad-
vantage of a swift current, which now swept to the northward, and
in about an hour brought us to a strong rapid, the descent ol
which looked exceedingly like going down-hill. After the usual
examination, the steersmen were desirous of lightening the boat
before running it, hut the water was too shoal for landing, and we
were obliged to pole up a small rapid ta an island ; whence it was
at length decided, as no eligible landing-place could be found above
or below it, to risk the descent with the whole cargo. It was a
case of necessity ; so off we pushed, and in a few minutes were
plunged into the midst of curling waves and large rocks ; but the
coolness of the crew, and the great dexterity of the bow and steers-
men, avoided each danger as it arose. At length, however, one
lowering wave threw us on a rock, and something crashed; luekilv
we did not hang, for nothing could have resisted the force of tlie
torrent, and the slightest check at such a lime would have been in-
evitable destruction to the whole party. After being whirled (o
and fro by the velocity of counter cuirenls, we escaped from this
without other damage than a broken keel plate — an accident
wliich left that part from thenceforth undefended — hut rapid still
followed rapid in disagreeably quick succession, and I was not a
little rejoiced when we were again fairly in smooth water; for the
lakes we had passed, with their unknown but assuredly distant
boundaries, and the numerous deep bays and other impediments to ,
a land journey, such as 1 had acufe reasons for remembering, made
the safety of the boat a paramount consideration. Not that all
ordinary accidents which could befall men in our situation had not
been already contemplated, and as far as my ability extended pro-
vided for ; but these hourly demands on the nerves brought pos-
sible contingencies more home, and made them sink deeper into
the mind. In short, I could not divest myself of those cares and
anxieties which every conscientious officer must feel for those, be ,|
they few or many, who look up to him for safety and direction.

Much to our satisfaction the river kept to the northward, and gave
\is the hope of making a little latitude, now become extremely desir-
able; when suddenly, notwithstanding the long view ahead, to-
wards which the current seemed to be setting, it turned off at a
right angle, and opened into a spacious lake, the extremity of which
could not be discerned. W ith singular eccentricity, however, it ,
BOon again trended northward through a wide space with inanv

deep bays,
Islands wer^
there was a
land being
'Allthelal
large expan
lassment w
Jirection fo
,<and-hills w
was unwil
on the oars,
ihe current
I «onnd of a fa
«hich took 1
1 10 which m\
Ibid Inlet,—
I me serious u
passage thro
ing noice to
Macdougall,''
I'OthHighlan
Bending sh
I channel, the
I ibly towards t
hired feet hig
[was to secure
liver disappes
iound it was i
l)ut a successi
in such "con I
bieadth of foi
[rock about i\
naked appear
tlic main we;
another serpe
strife of surge
I The space occi
was full of sun
loamcd, and h
U that part \l\

3 of tlie
leen in-
irled to
om this
iccident
ipid still
as not a
for the
distant
nents to t
made
lat alt
lad not
ed pro-
it pos-
)er into
es and
lose, be
ion.
d gave .s
f desii-
ad, to-
off at a
' whioh
ver, it I
manv

LAKE MACDOIJGALL.

IH')

deep bays, some of which were totally covered with ice. The
Islands were also numerous; and having passed between two where
there was a rapid, we came to so great an extent of water and ice,
land being not visible to the north, that the steersman exclaimed,
'All the lakes we had yet seen are nothing to this one ! " In its
large expanse the current was soon lost, and proportionate embar-
rassment was occasioned us in deciding on the most probable
ilirection for striking on the river. Several likely openings near
«and-hills were explored ineffectually between north and east; for
1 was unwilling to think it would be found elsewhere. We rested
on the oars, but the boat remained motionless, and gave no clue to
ilie current ; nor was it until I imagined that I caught the faint
joiind of a fall, that we reluctantly pulled along a border of firm ice
which took us away due south, a direction the very opposite of that
10 which my wishes tended, and looking directly tow ards Chester-
field Inlet, — the proximity of which, I w ill not deny, began to give
me serious uneasiness. Still keeping south, we threaded a zigzag
passage through a barrier of ice, and w ere then led by the increas-
ing noice to the end of the lake, which received the name of "Lake
Macdougall," after my friend the Lieutenant-Colonel of the gallant
*!)th Highlanders.

Bendingshort round to the left, and in a comparatively contracted
channel, the whole force of the water glided smoothly but irresist-
ibly towards two stupendous gneiss rocks, from five to eight hun-
dred feet high, rising like islands on either side. Our first care
was to secure the boat in a small curve to the left, near which the
river disappeared in its descent, sending up showers of spray. We
found it was not one fall, as the hollow roar had led us to believe,
kt a succession of falls and cascades, and whatever else is horrible
in such "confusion worse confounded." It expanded to about the
bieadth of four hundred yards, having near the centre an insulated
rock about tbree hundred feet high, having the same barren and
naked appear '.nee as those on each side. From the projection of
the main western shore, which concealed the opening, issued
another serpentine rapid and fall ; while to the right there was a
strife of surge and rock, the roar of which was heard far and wide.
The space occupying the centre from the first descent to the island
was full of sunken rocks of unequal heights, over which the rapid
ioatncd, and boiled, and rushed with impetuous and deadly fury.
At that part it was raised into an arch ; while the sides were yawning

r J

*.s

I

' 'Id
itti

li

u

i

i f,

l5

A J'i

186

OBSERVATIONS.

and cavernous, swallowing huge masses of ice, and then again
tossing the splindered fragments high into the air. A more terrific
sight could not well be conceived, and the impression which it
produced was apparent on the countenances of the men. The por-
tage was over scattered debris of the rocks (of which two more
with perpendicular and rounded sides formed a kind of wall to the
lc(t), and afforded a rugged and difficult way to a single rock at
the foot of the rapid, about a mile distant. The boat was emptied
of her cargo, but was still too heavy to be carried more than a few
yards; and, whatever the consequence, there was thu^ no alterna-
tive but to try the falls.

Every precaution that experience could devise was adopted ;
double lines to the bow and stern were held on shore by the most
careful of the men, and M'Kay and Sinclair took their stations at
each end of the boat with poles, to keep her from dashing against
the rocks. It was no common attempt, and excited in me the most
lively concern for their safety. Repeatedly did the strength of the
current hurl the boat within an inch of destruction, and as often did
these able and intrepid men ward off the threatened danger. Sti
amongst the many descents, she did not escape without some severe *
shocks, in one of which the remaining keel plate was entirely |
stripped away; but cool, collected, prompt to understand and obey
the mutual signs which each made to the other with the hand—
for their voices were inaudible — the gallant fellows finally succeeded
in guiding her down in safety to the last fall. There she was taken
out of the water, and, with the assistance of Mr. Kir^ and myself,
was, though with difficulty, carried below it. On our return to the
baggage, I gave the men a good glass of grog, with praises which
they had well earned ; and all being weary w ith exertion, we en-
camped for the night.

At 3h 30in A. M. of the 23d, the people began carrying the peni-
mican and boxes across, a task which the loose and slippery stones
made by no means easy ; and aware that it would take them till
noon to complete the work, I gladly availed myself of the oppor-
tunity to obtain observations; the result of which was, latitude 65'
54' 18' N., longitude 98^ 10 7' W., variation 29" 16' E.; thus f
showing a diminution of the latter as we made northing: and indeed,
the powerful action of some influence was apparent in the increasing
sluggishness of the compass, which of late required to be frequently
tapped at the sides to make it move. But the most interesting

observalioi
Hansleen's
bv Dollond
and when
ultimately j
used, wliic
extremity c
steadily tha
other.

I bad no

iiad a smoo

ilie red pre

igray and r

i small obcl

within a fev

ilii'ce longiti

oilier, so as

pieces, but s(

11, , J use of the la

llie-place, o

enough for c

ken made s

situation so e)

|jeclure that it

oealment on

adventurer w

iliose farther

ierfield Inlet ;

ffliles from us,

our present ei
lendiiiff.

Tiie prospe

"landing emin

(•ut in no man

ilie ultimate c^

'Uiith-east, mi;

»'as distinctly «

Iwuld be tiace<

linlermediate s]

ilie north-east,

PROSPECT FROM ROCK RAPID.

IS7

observations were those for dip and intensity, particularly with
Hansleen's needle. The former was taken with a vertical compass
by Dollond, which was very dull and heavy, making few'vibrations ;
and when within 10° or 15° from its last vibration, swagging, and
ullimately stopping suddenly. For the latter a horizontal one was
used, which moved remarkably slow, and seemed to hang at the
extremity of every oscillation ; but still vibrated longer and more
steadily than might have been expected after the working of the
other.

1 had now also leisure to ascend the highest of the rocks, which
had a smooth table summit of quartz, red felspar, and horneblende,
ilie red predominating at tliui part, though partially covered with
i gray and minute yellow lichen. The Esquimaux had here erected
i small obelisk of slabs, placed perpendicularly on each other; and
within a few paces of it were two more marks, one consisting of
iliiee longitudinal fragments resting against and supporting each
other, so as to form a triangular pyramid ; the other also of three
pieces, but so placed as to form three sides of a parallelogram. The
use of the last one I could not divine, since it was too large for a
llie-place, of which, indeed, there was no trace, and not secure
enough for a cache. Among the loose debris, a cache might have
been made safe even from the plundering wolvereens ; but in a
situation so exposed there could be no security. 1 could only con-
jecture that it might, perhaps, serve as a place of watch and con-
lealment on hunting or other excursions which might bring the
adventurer within reach of an enemy's arrow. These piles, like
iiose farther south, pointed north-east, and not due south to Ches-
lerfield Inlet ; which at this point was not more than ninety-four
miles from us, and towards which, until l!ic turn at the Rock Rapid
our present encampment), the Thlew-ee-choh seemed to be directly
lendinff.

The prospect before us, viewed with a telescope from the com-
manding eminence of the rock, extended to an immense distance ;
but in no manner aided to clear up the doubt of what would be
tlie ultimate course of the river. For at the utmost limit to the
south-east, mingling with the white haze of the atmosphere, water
was distinctly seen; which, by following the windings of the valleys,
could be traced to about four miles of where we stood, this short
intprniediale space being occupied by a line of shallow rapids. To
ilie north-east, indeed, interrupted glimpses were caught of a ser-

M

i>

ik

•M

I '

ISA

MORE UAIMDS.

pentine stream leading to some sand-hills; but, made cautious hv
disappointment, we put little faith in such appearances.

Whilst making these observations, I had not once turned round ;
but now doing so with the intention of proceeding on the voyage,
I perceived, to my amazement, that there was no spray rising from
the rapid, and that its deafening roar had subsided into a grind-
ing and hollow noise, which betokened the destruction of whatever
it was which caused it. A phenomenon so utterly at variance with
what had existed an hour before made me hasten down, more,
however, to look after the boat, than for the satisfaction of any cu-
riosity, as roon consideration I could not but infer that it was the
ice driven by the wind and current together from Lake Macdougall,
that was choking up the rapid. And so it proved; it was the dis-
ruption of the main body of the ice, or, as it is called, the last break
up of the season, when line weather may be expected. With thib
new obstacle there was no immediate contending; for in such a tor-
rent the boat would have been crushed to atoms. At length, howe-
ver, the stream, which rushed with amazing velocity, by 5 i\ so
far cleared itself as to allow of our loading the boat; not, however,
without risk from the lloating pieces which yet remained beating
about in the eddy, and which it required the entire attention of two
men to keep otT. Scarcely had we pushed from the shore, when
we were in the midst of rapids. Two were run ; but the third was
too dangerous to allow the attempt; consequently again we had to
carry all the cargo across a portage of half a mile, while the boat
so lightened was brought safely down the rapid. The opposite
shore was then discovered to be an island, round the western ex-
tremity of which another branch of the river cut a broad channel,
and joined the one we had selected by a faU of ten feet. A quarter
of a mile below the junction, this extraordinary stream was checked
by a shelving ledge of low rocks that turned it to the north, in the
direction of the sand-hills which we had seen in the early part of
the day.

An overcast and stormy night, with much rain, brought in a
morning which forbade the attempt to start, as it was impracticable,
with such a gale, to keep the lead in the rapid before us; so that
there was no choice but to wait until it should calm. Ii the mean-
time, M'Kay was sent to examine the river farther ("own, and re-
turned about noon with an account of several rapids and a large lall
not far from us, and of having seen some marks on his way. 1"

the afternc

iiirn to the

Sinclair's

already fre

IS to be eq

had all aloi

The rive

with falls

{iver. Th

nas border

?ome dislan

would lie.

iwice throw

ciirrents; bi

At its entrai

I was too late

July 25th

southerly, a

were low, b

in by ledges

ward, and

lake. Such

the uncertaii

current. In

and for a fc

ler graduallj

gerous rapid

avoid accidei

ihe water, t

the most imn

the gull's fori

0' V. A those

triple characi

yards, thai tl

obedience of

so far exceed

rivers of the

elsewhere w(

deavouring t(

ihe man to w

SINCLAIR'S FALLS.

189

ious by

round ;
voyage,
ng from
I grind-
liatever
ice with
I, more,
any cii-
was the
dougall,
the dis-
st break
Slth this
;h a tor-
1, howe-
1'. so
lowever,
I bcaliDg
n of two
, when
lird was
had to
10 boat
pposile
tern ex-
hannel,
quarter
cheeked
, in the
part of

cht in a
jticable,
so that
e mean-
and re-
arge fail
av. Ill

the afternoon, the journey was resumed; and having followed the
(urn to the north, and got down the rapids, we made a portage at
Sinclair's Falls; so named after one of the steersmen, who has been
already frequently mentioned, and who was so complete a boatman
IS to be equal to the duty of the bow also, which station indeed ho
had all along filled.

The river was now near a mile broad, full of small rocky islands,
with falls between each, not unlike the Pelican Fall in the. Slave
Kiver. The boat was lowered down; and following the bend, which
«as bordered by the sand-hills, we came to an opening disclosing
.onie distant mountains, towards which it was thought our course
would lie. Onjecture, however, was useless : even here, we were
uvice thrown out by the ov Happing of low points and by counter
currents; but at last we found a wide channel running to the S. E.
At its entrance the fourth cache of pemmican was made; and as it
was too late to see the stones in the water, we encamped,

July 25th. — The wcatlier was raw and cold, though the wind was
southerly, and the thermometer 48". The banks on either side
were low, but curiously paved with round stones, probably forced
in by ledges of grounded ice. The next reach turned to the north-
ward, and became so wide that it might well have been called a
lake. Such expansions always occasioned us some perplexity, from
the uncertainty and difficulty there was in tracing the run of the
current. In this instance, however, it was less inconstant than usual,
and for a few miles continued nearly in the same course; when, af-
ter gradually contracting, it was broken by a mile of heavy and dan-
gerous rapids. The boat was lightened, and every care taken to
avoid accidents ; but so overwhelming was the rush and whirl of
the water, that she, and consequently those in her, were twice in
the most imminent danger of perishing by being plunged into one of
the gulfs formed in the rocks and hollows of the rapid. It was in
0 V. J those singular and dangerous spots, which partake of the
triple character of a fall, rapid, and eddy in the short space of a few
yards, thai the crew owed their safety solely to an unintentional dis-
obedience of the steersman's directions. Tb" power of the water
so far exceeded whatever had been witnessed in any c^ the other
rivers of the country, that the same precautions successfully used
elsewhere were weak and unavailing here. The steersman was en-
deavouring to clear a fall and some sunken rocks on the left, but
the man to whom he spoke misunderstood him, and did exactly the

M

I -^

i3

■':» '1

ri ::i

i»U

DANGEROUS UAIMDS.

!!

reverse; and now, seeing the danger, the steersman swept round (lu
hoal's stern : instantly it was caught hy an eddy to the right, which
snapping an oar, twirled her irresistibly broadside on ; so that lor
a moment it seemed uncertain whether the boat and all in her were
to be hurled into the hollow of the fall, or dashed stern foremost on
the sunken rocks. Something perhaps wiser than chance ordained
it otherwise ; for how it happened no account can be given, but so
it waathat her head swung inshore towards the beach, and thereby
gave Sinclair and others an opportunity of springing into the water,
and thus, by their united strength, rescuing her from her perilous
situation. Now had the man to whom the first order was given
understood and acted upon it, no human power could have saved
the crew from being buried in the frightful abyss. I\or yet could
any blame be justly attached to the steersman : he had never been
so situated before ; and even in this imminent peril his coolness and
self-possession never forsook him. At the awful moment of sus-
pepse, when one of the crew with less nerve than his companions
began to cry aloud to Heaven for aid, M'Kay, in a still louder voice,
exclaimed, " Is this a time for praying " Pull your starboard oar.'
" Heaven helps those who help themselves" seems to have bee^ the
creed of the stout-hearted highlander.

On the eastern side we noticed some marks, as well as the re-
mains of an Esquimaux encampment; but nothing which denoted
when they had been there. Having made another cache of pemmican.
at the foot of Escape Rapid, in order to lighten the boat as much as
possible, we pursued our course; but had not got more than two
miles farther, when a thick fog and pelting rain obscured the view,
and obliged us to land for shelter. As soon as it cleared, which
was not before theevening, we renewed the attempt; and were urged
by a strong current considerably to the eastward, the river now tak-
ing that direction through a range of cliffy sand-hills, in which, on
some occasions of more than common obstruction, its eddies had
scooped out extensive basins. The current, always swift, now
rushed on still faster, and soon became a line of heavy rapids, which
more than once made me tremble for our poor boat; for in many
parts, not being able to land, we were compelled to pull hard to keep
her under command, and thus flew past rocks and other dangers
with a velocity that seemed to forebode some desperate termination :
happily, however, we escaped; though only to begin another series.
Along the banks of these last lay several dead deer, which had doubt-

'■rhl

NORTHERLY BEND Ol' TIIK Kl\ til

lUl

omul the
it, whicli
) that lor
her were
emost on

ordained
jn, but so
d thereby
Lhe water.
ir perilous
was given
ave savetl

yet could
lever been
olness and
icnt of sus-
ompanions
uder voice,
loard oar.'
ve bec3 the

as the rc-
ch denoted
pemmican.
as much as
■e than two
d the view,
ired, which
were urged
er now tak-
1 which, on
eddies had
swift, now
ipids, which
or in many
|iard to keep
er dangers
^rmination :
ither series.
iihad doubt-

less been drowned in attempting to swim to the opposite side. At
8 p.m. we arrived near a detached mountainous rock dipping to the
western shore of the river, in which quarter the descent, now ma-
nifest, as well as the hollow roar, plainly indicated something which
jt that late hour it was prudent to avoid; and, to say the truth,
however habit may in most things produce a sort of callous indiffe-
rence to danger, I had abundant proof this day that the rule does not
always hold good, for the very 4>rue of my men were beginning to
evince a cautiousness which was quite new to them; and the order
tor encamping was executed with a very significant alacrity.

Within a few hundred yards of us, nine white wolves were prowl-
iiifj round a herd of musk-oxen, one of which was shot; but, being
a bull, was too strongly scented to be eaten. As there was no pos-
sibility of making a portage, should it be necessary, on the side
where we had encamped, at daylight of the following morning we
pulled up stream to cross over, and see if it was more favourable
oathe other side. The descent broke over a fall five feet deep,
I opposite to a gloomy chasm in the rock; but as it did not reach quite
1 10 the eastern side, the boat was enabled to pass it, and then ran
k Wolf Rapid. Some of the animals whose name it bore seemed
1 0 be keeping a brisk look-out for what might happen.

Several other rapids (for there was no end of them) worked their
|*ay between high rocks, which now, for the first time since the
jriver had turned so much to the eastward, lay on that side; a cir-

iimstance that I thought augured well for a northerly bend at no
Ijieat distance. But what most gratified me was the disappearance
)f the sand-hills, which I beheld as so many enemies to our cause,
lihat were gradually leading us away to the wrong side of our ob-
Iject. My joy, therefore, may be imagined at seeing, as we advanc-
jeil, that my hopes were, after all, likely to be realized; for the late
jiispicious trending to the eastward, almost in a parallel of latitude,
M again created doubts in my mind, and set me speculating whe-
Iher the river might not yet terminate in Wager Bay.

Another cache was made, with the addition of a little ammunition
N tobacco. Some more rapids led farther to the north ; and
pe stream, as maybe supposed, after the addition of so many tri-
lutaries, maintained an imposing breadth, being, in some parts,
[pwards of a mile. Both sides were hemmed in by mountains,
cvered as usual with boulders and large fragments of loose splin-

I

I'i

;;i

%

i

1)1

IM

MOUNT IVIEADOWBANK.

tery rock, the dark and purplish hue of wliich relieved the green
shelving slopes dotted with herds of musk oxen.

A glimpse of the sun at noon gave the latitude 00" 0' 21' N. ;
nearly abreast of a picturesque and commanding mountain, wiiji
steep sloping sides to the south-west, where cattle were feeding,
but to the northward broken into f<!arful precipices and overjiang-
ing cliffs, inaccessible to the foot of man. It was by far the most
conspicuous eminence we had seen ; and, from some fancied like-
ness, the people said, " Here's Hoy Head, — give way, boys, we are
not far from the sea." The remark took me in luiaginalion lo
Auld Reekie , and I called the hill Mount 3Ieadowbank, in honour
of the learned Lord of that name.

After a course of six miles to the south-east, the river again
veered northerly, rushing with fearful impetuosity among rocks and
large stones, which raised such whirlpools in the rapids as would
have put the strength of a canoe in jeopardy. The boat's breadth
of beam and steady trim kept her up in such trials; but, though we
escaped the rapid, we had a narrow chance of being dashed on
the beach by the eddy. The low projecting point of rock, against
which we had been thus almost thrown and then whirled away
from by the receding current, was remarkable for a row of piled
stones or slabs, placed a few feet apart, which, as we shot the rapid,
were at first mistaken for figures gazing at us. On the neighbour-
ing hills and mountains were many more of a similar construction,
which, we could easily understand, might serve for marks to guide
the natives through the country; but for what purpose this " pic-
quet" mounted guard at the foot of the rapid, was not quite so clear,
to our comprehensions.

To the westward the rocks obtained considerable altitude, and,
comparatively speaking, had become even mountainous. They
were desolate, rugged, and barren; but to the eastward there was
more vegetation, on a shelving and regular country. More rapidi
were passed ; and, at 8 v. m,, we encamped under the Ice of a higl
rock, partially clad with shrubs and moss, in which the musk-oxeaj
and deer had tramped deep tracks. It was opposite to a solitar]
bank of sand, that formed the western entrance to a small rivei
apparently a favourite resort of geese, which, having frequentei
it in numberless flocks during the moulting season, had left thou-
sands of the finest quills strewed on the sand. Carts might bav
been laden with them.

Them(
being 40»
A.M., and
direction,
a mile, an
rapid that
and, on th(
lirst, we o
ments, the
for the con
hecame ste
iliose farthc
west and n(
In the aft
ilie westwa?
iribiitarv, v
Monlresor.
Itself, rising
liare and i
)Jany dippt
nhich spruii
!lie yellow s
natural gaie
The swol
long undistu
caused by t
nearer and e
fjiiarler we s
There wa
"acted the a
«as equal in
moiis mass o
•'ame substar
•*^ a volcano,
"' the imagir
I'"' an island
Pastern shon
outlet of the
volunteered

Ih

le river; " a

M'KAYS PEAK.

1<.)3

The morniiif? of (he 27lh was cKindy and cold ; the thermometer
being 40* with a south-west wind. We were on the water by 4
A.M., and were gratilied to lind (hat the river maintained (he same
tlireclion, with a breadth varying from three quar(ers of a mile to
a mile, and with a border of granitic mountains on each side. A
rapid that was passed caused it to deviate a little to the westward ;
and, on the right bank of a second one, more intricate than (he
first, we observed the marks and traces of three circular encanip-
nients, the inner portions of which v.ere divided into sections, as if
for the convenience of different occupants. Near this, the rocks
became steeper, if possible more barren, and distinguished from
lliose farther south by their precipitous sides and cliffs facing to the
west and north-west.

In the afternoon, the stream took a wide sweep; and at a bay to
ilie westward, half screened by huge rocks, it received another large
tributarv, which I named after Licutenant-GcRcral Sir Thomas
Montresor. It was here that the trap formation first exhibited
itself, rising ridge over ridge, like a range of long flat steps, with
bare and rounded sides, sometimes terminating precipitously.
Many dipped into the water in a line with a few sandy islands,
niiich sprung, like sugar loaves, from the bosom of the stieam, and
!he yellow surfaces of which had an appearnncc of forced and un-
natural gaiety, amidst the gloom of that dark and desolate scenery.
The swollen river now rolled on in sullen and deathlike silence,
long undisturbed by any thing louder than an occasional bubbling
caused by the unevenness of the bottom. But the shores got
nearer and nearer, and, for a space, it was quite uncertain in what
f|iiarter we should go.

There was a rocky hill, so remarkably formed as to have at-
iracted the attention of all of us for some time. The base, which
was equal in height to the surrounding mountains, was one enor-
mous mass of round gray rock, surmounted by a large cone of the
>ame substance, which so exactly resembled in outline the crater
of a volcano, and was withal so black, that it required no straining
of the imagination to conceive it one. At a distance it was taken
lor an island; but as we advanced, we found it to be a part of the
faslern shore, and were soon made aware that the contrac(e(l
outlet of the river lay at its foot. On our landing, the steersman
volunteered to ascend it, to get, as he termed it, " a good lodk at
ihc river; " and in consequence we christened it !M'Kay's Peak.

13

'» '

101

A SI'AClOtS I.AKK

^1'

From its giddy heiglit tlie rapid looked as even and smootli as oil;
and in that supposition, having taken the precaution to lighten (lie
boat forward, we pushed oil', and the next minute were in it. |
think I shall never forget the moment of the first descent down
what cannot be more fitly described than as a steep hill. There
was not, it is true, a single break in the smoothness of the surface ;
but with such wild swiftness were we borne along, that it required
our extremest efforts, the very tug of life, to keep the boat clear ol
the gigantic waves below : and we succeeded at last only to be
tossed about in the Charybdis of its almost irresistible whirlpools.

Having got out of this ti^ouble, nothing loth, we breathed more
freely again in the wide stream, which now carried us gently l,.i-
ward. Craggy rocks, as before, bordered each side, the western
being the more open of the two, with undulating prairies. At the
end of six miles, a sandy bluff from the left seemed to bar the river ;
but, on drawing closer, it proved, as expected, the beginning of
another rapid ; which, however, was more civil than the last, and
allowed us to pass with a few good-humoured buffetings to make
us free of its waters.

When we had fairly entered the mountainous country, and the
river had taken a decided turn to the northward, I certainly did
not contemplate any other interruption than rapids or falls; my as-
tonishment will therefore be understood, when, from the foot of the
rapids, we emerged into the expanse of a spacious lake, bounded
only by the horizon, and stretching away in a direction about
N.N.W. For a while the current was felt, and guided us on; but
soon the old difficulty was experienced, and we had again to grope
our way towards the river as we might. A cold head-wind with rain
did not aid this operation; and as the evening was already far ad-
vanced, we encamped, — after which divine service was read inthf
tent. I had already been to the summit of a tolerably high hill, but
could not descry any land : there was, however, much ice in a
N.N.W. bearing; and the space between the western shore and ns
which might be from five to six miles, was quickly filling up by the
drifting masses from the main body. It was, therefore, an impor-
tant consideration to push on as fast as possible, and secure the pas-
sage that was still left; but whether in effecting this the right or the
left side should be preferred, was a question that I had some difli-
culty in solving. The general direction of the last two days would I
have inclined me to lean to the western shore; but depending on

ilic marl
and star
thcrmon
ing N.N.
A sho
onr prog
into whi(
it were ti
ind after
a strait w
current m
therefore,
after my f
l)e associ:
which, as
but the nt
breadth, v
while spra
not to be
fortunate i
pidly inclij
two islands
pendicular
pven more,
bered with
an inner c
being lowe
lower islan
' was imp(
licable for a
for extricat
Jic attempt
Prudence
made me h(
I just reliance
of that ardoi
dered the m
cute it to ke
I land and lo'
[jiid anxious

A I'KRILOUS I'OSITION.

i{«:i

ihc marks, which were now seen on every lieight, I chose ihe other;
and starling at 4 a.m., July 28., with a chilly north-west wind, and
ihcrmometc"* at 38", we made for an island right ahead, and bear-
ing N.N.E.

A short breaking sea and the ico together considerably impeded
our progress ; but on reaching the island, we opened upon a bay,
into which 1 pulled, with (he double purpose of finding the rive f
it were there, or of creeping under a weather shore if it were not;
and after a course of about three miles to an island, which formed
a strait with the mainland, we had the satisfaction to iind that the
(iirrent was running with us to (he eastward. Leaving the lake,
ihercforc, which, as a slight token of my sincere regard, I called
after my friend Captain Sir .lohn Franklin, whose name will always
be associated with this portion of America, we followed the stream,
which, as usual, soon broke into a rapid: (his was safely passed;
but the next, close to it, demanded more caution ; for, from its
breadth, which was not less than three quarters of a mile, and the
white spray which was rising at the vanishing line, it was clearly
not to be ventured on without a preliminary examination. And
lor(unate it was that the precaution was taken; for there was a ra-
pidly inclined descent of twenty feet, divided at the upper end by
two islands, and at the lower end by one, thickly spread with per-
pendicular slabs set up as marks, three or four feet high, and many
pven more. The entire space of the rapid was shoal, and encum-
bered with stones, which threw up a continuous sheet of foam; but
an inner channel along the western bank admitted of the boat's
being lowered down quite light with ropes and poles as far as the
lower island. Here, however, there was an awkward fall, which
ii was impossible to lower down, — neither was the ground prac-
licable for a launch. The only method, therefore, which remained
for extricating her from her present situation, however dangerous
ihc attempt, was to plunge into the breakers outside the island.

Prudence, and a proper regard for the safety of my companions,
made me hesitate at this trying juncture; but at length, placing a
just reliance on Providence, and encouraged by the manifestation
of (hat ardour which rendered the men superior to danger, I or-
dered the movement to be made, directing those who were to exe-
cute it to keep near the outer bank of the island, and if possible to
land and lower down. In a few seconds they were out of sight;
and anxiously, with Mr. King, I took my station on a hill that corn-
is*

I '1 '

ti

'i y ■ 1

196

F.S<;riMAl A.

mantled the loot ol tlio rapid, as well as llio point round wliid.
they were to eoine. Treble llie lime elapsed that was re(|iiisil(' to
bring them within sight, and >till they did not appear. I scoured
the river with the telescope, yet saw nothing hut water and rock.
In vain we strained our sight, in vain listened for a voice; nothing
was heard or seen but the torrent, which raged and rolled on heed-
less of our anxiety. At this painful crisis, when apprehension was
beginning to prevail over hope, the boat suddenly appeared, seem
ing to cut her way through the solid land of the lower part of (In-
island, where, as we afterwards learned, there was a very nariow
and shoal channel, entirely concealed from us, through which llic
men had cautiously lifted her. The trouble attending this proceed
ing had caused the delay which had alarmed us; nor was it uniil
noon that the arrangements were again completed for resuming iIk
journey.

I may take occasion to remark liere, that ever since leaving Hork
Rapid, the compass needles had been getting daily nu)re sluggish ;
and at this place, where tht vere many rocks /// siht, or lying in
fragments on the mossy soil, .lOugh I could not find that these di
rectly affected them, they would hardly traverse at all when at resi,
and mine frequently remained wherever it was placed, without
evincing the slightest tendency to recover its polarity, llowevei,
the constant jerking motion of pulling did so fai* move them about
as to enable me to get the eomses with some approach to exactness,
though certainly not so as to be depended upon without the assis-
tance of the chronometers.

A fine open reach ahead at first held out the prospect of repaying
us for lost time; but, at the end of three miles, the river became
again pent in by almost meeting rocks of considerable altitude, the
summits of which were crowned with the usual upright marks, slill
more numerous even than before. The disappearance of the sur-
face line of water, and successive jets of mist thrown up against
the gray rocks, gave unequivocal tokens of a fall; and, while exa-
mining the rapid that led to it, we perceived that, besides the marks
on the eastern hill, there were many active and bustling figures,
either pressing in a close group or running about from place to place,
in manifest confusion. These were the Esquimaux, of whom we had
so long and ardently wished to get a sight. Some called out to u>,
and others made -signs, -warning us, as we thought, to avoid the fall.
and cross over to their side of the water : b\U. when our intention

•il doing s(
spears, ull
to us not I
alarm whi
from a qui
uiily had
into a sem
yelling of
depression
pst stale of
weapon, I
action of t
instant thei
iiands on tl
doubtless g:
telligible.
supposition
not Indians
lure them;
go through
adopted the
the hand.
ner, I convc
the Esquimi
All this sc
diminished I
some fish-hc
cles which I
the customa
inents, whic
senling then
constantly r<
Company's s
waggish en(
nounced and
Whilst we V
leriog up wii
carrying she
>\vord of the

I': I i

EM^LIMAl X.

107

oC doing so was apparent, llic men ran towards us, brandishing their
spears, uttering h)ud yells, and, with wild gesticulations, motioning
10 us not to land, {'or all this I was (|uite prepared, knowing tho
alarm which they must naturally I'cel at beholding strangers issuing
from a quarter whence hitherto the scourge of merciless warfare
only had visited their tribes. As the boat grounded they formed
into a semicirle, about twenty-live paces distant ; and with the same
yelling of some unintelligible word, and the alternate elevation and
depression of both extended arms, apparently continued in the high-
est stale of excitement : until, landing alone, and without visible
weapon, I walked deliberately up to them, and, imitating their own
action of throwing up my hands, called out Tima, — peace. In an
instant their spears were Hung upon the ground; and, putting their
hands on their breasts, they also called out Tima, with much more
doubtless greatly to the purpose, but to mo of course utterly unin-
telligible. However,! interpreted it into friendship; and, on that
supposition, I endeavoured to make ibem comprehend that we were
not Indians, but Kabloonds — Europeans — come to benefit not to in-
lurc them; and as they did not, like their neighbours to the north,
go through the ceremony of rubbing noses by way of salutation, 1
adopted the John Bull fashion of shaking each of them heartily by
the hand. Then patting their breasts, according to their own man-
ner, I conveyed to them, as well as 1 could, that the white men and
the Esquimaux were very good friends.

All this seemed to give great satisfaction, which was certainly not
diminished by a present to each of two new shining buttons. These,
some fish-hooks, and other trifles of a like kind, were the ooJy arti-
cles which 1 had brought for this purpose, being strongly opposed to
the customary donation of knives, hatchets, and other sharp instru-
ments, which may be so easily turned to use against the party pre-
^enting them. They expressed much astonishment at seeing me
constantly refer to a small vocabulary with which Mr. Lewis, of the
Company's service, had beei; kind enough to provide me; and were
waggish enough to laugh at my patchwork discourse of mispro-
nounced and misapplied words, and scarcely more intelligible signs.
Whilst we were thus engaged, some old men, half blind, came tot-
tering up with their spears, accompanied by two equally old women,
carrying short and rudely fashioned iron knives, which, like the
^word of the redoubled Hudibras, would do to toast or strike withal;

lOft

VISIT TO THEIR TENTS.

r

but, perceiving the uplifted bands oi their friends, the men threw
their spears on the ground.

Conceiving that I had now in some degree gained their confidence,
though not so entirely but that each held the knife or stiletto-
shaped horn grasped in his hand by way of precaution, I suppose,
against treachery, I directed JM'Kay and Sinclair to go and ex-
amine the fall, with a view to run it, if possible, and so avoid the
making a portage, fearing least the sight of ourbaggage might tt npt
the natives to steal, and so provoke a rupture. They understood
at once what we were about; so, to draw off their attention, I went
with them to their tents, which were three in number, one single
and two joined together, constructed in the usual manner with poles
and skins. On our arrival, 1 was struck with the sight of a sort ol
circumvallalion of piled stones, precisely similar to those which we
had passed, and arranged, as 1 conjectured, to serve for shields
against the missiles of their enemies ; as, besides the bow, arrow,
and spear, these people make a most effective use of the slin^.
Many dogs, of an inferior size, were basking in the sunshine, and
thousands of fish lay all around split, and exposed to dry on the
rocks, the roes appearing to be particularly prized. These, which
were white fish and small trout, had been caught in the eddy below
the fall, and kept alive in pools constructed for the purpose. The
women and children, about a dozen in number, came out of the
tents to see me ; and the men pointed out their own helpmates
and offspring with apparent fondness. Beads were soon distri-
buted to both the women and children, and in return they gave
me some trifles of their own rude manufacture.

By this time the steersman reported the impractibility of getting
down the fall, owing to a dangerous rock near the centre ; and was
instructed, in consequence, to have the oaggage carried over the port-
age in such a manner that one person should always be with the dc-
p6t while Mr. King, who had general directions never to lose sight ol
the boat, would superintend the whole. While the crew was thus
occupied, i took upon me the part of amusing the Esquimaux, by
sketching their likenesses and writing down their names. Tiiis
gratified them exceedingly ; but their meriment knew no bounds
when I attempted, what was really no easy task, to pronounce what
I had written. There might have been about thirty-five altogether.
and, as far as I could make out, they never had seen " Kabloonds

I

before,
of their n
than is g
respects,
rage stat
iher did t
ments of
ancient f{
against o
uriant gr
the forme
Killingwc
loured, b
Thew(
and fourt
so rtatter(
I should 1
icuance,
of the pai
tne no exi
beauty.
ii down ;
her cheek
was toucl
and thrus
looed line
eighteen f
lace ; ten i
each eye ;
tween the
pearancc
which wa
ately elevj
mouth lar
into two
their placi
whilst the

PORTRAIT or AN I.SOHIMAUX WOMAN

i'.n>

lew before. They had a cast ol countenance superior to that of such

of their nation as I had hitherto seen, indicating less ot low cunning
than is generally stamped on their features ; though in most other
respects, sufficiently resembhng them. The men were of the ave-
rage stature, well knit, and athletic. They were not tattooed, nei-
ther did their vanity incommode them with the lip and nose orna-
ments of those farther west ; but, had they been disciples of the
ancient fathers, who considered " the practice of shaving as a lie
against our own faces," they could not have nurtured a more lux-
uriant growth of beard, or cultivated more flowing mustachoes. In
the former they yielded the palm only to that ol Master George
Killingworth, "which was not only thick, broad, and yellow-co-
loured, but in length live feet and two inches of assize." '

The women were much tattooed about the face and the middle
and fourth lingers. The only lady whose portrait wat sketched was
so rtattered at being selected for the distinction, that in her fear lest
[ should not sufficiently see every grace of her good-tempered coun-
tenance, she intently watched my eye ; and according to her notion
of the part I was pencilling, protruded it, or turned it so as to leave
lue no excuse for not delineating it iu the lull proportion of its
beauty. Thus seeing me look at her head, she immediately bent
il down •, stared portentously when I sketched ler eyes ; puffed out
her cheeks when their turn arrived; and linaliy, perceiving that I
was touching in ♦he mouth, opened it to the full extent of her jaws,
and thrust out the whole length of her tongue. She had six (at-
tooed lines drawn obliquely from the nostrils across each cheeky
eighteen from hfr mouth across her chin and the lower part of the
iace; ten small ones, branching like a larch tree from the corner ol
each eye ; and eight from the forehead to the centre of the nose be
tween th3 eyebrows. Out what was most remarkable in her ap-
pearance was the oblique position of the eyes ; the inner portion o
which was considerably depressed, whilst the other was proportion
ately elevated. The nostrils were a good deal expanded, and the
mouth large. Her hair was jet black, and simply parted in front
into two large curls or rather festoons, which were secured in
their places by a fillet of white deer skin twined round the head,
whilst the remainder hung loose behind the ears, or llowc<l not m\-

" H;irro\v's> Clirnir Hist ol Vo).t(;os, i llakliiyt.

200

INFOmiATION AS TO THE COAST.

giaceiiilly over her neck and shoulders. Slie was the rnosl con
spicuous, though they were all of the same family : they wen-
singularly clean in their persons and garments; and, notwilhstand
lug the linear embellishments of their faces, in whose mysterious,
figures a mathematician might perhaps have found something to
solve or perplex, they possessed a sprightliness which gave them
favour in the eyes of my crew, who declared "they were a set ol
bonnie-looking creatures."

There was no other peculiarity to distinguish the tribe from those
pourtrayed by Parry and Franklin ; except in one wild-looking mau,
who having on a pair of musk-ox skin breeches, with all the honours
of the shaggy mane ou(side, rcuiinded me strongly of the fabled satyrs
of the olden time. But he \Cas a character even among Esquimaux.

They had only five kciyaks or canoes; and the few implements
they possessed were merely such as were indispensable for the pro-
curing of food; viz. knives, spears, and arrows. The blades of the
lirst and the heads of the last were sometimes horn, but oftencr
rough iron, and had probably been obtained by barter from tlieii
eastern neighbours; a conjectnre to which I am inclined to attach
the more weight, from the fact that the models of some of their
little presents resembled the Indian daggers disposed of at the Com-
pany's posts throughout the country.

They knew nothing of any ship having been in Regent's Tnlel;
but after 1 had sketched the river near them, one of the most intel-
ligent took the pencil, and at my request drew the coast line from its
mouth, which, he said, we would reach on the following day ; and after
prolonging it thence a little to the northward, made an extraordinary
bendtothesouthward. Onmy asking if it were indeed so far south, bo
took me to the highest rock, from which a range of distant mountains
was visible to the east; and lirst extending his arm towards the sea,
nearly north, he drew his body backward in a curved attitude, pro-
jecting his hand so as to intimate the trending of the land in that di-
rection. Continuing then to make a curve wi*h his hand from west
to east, he turned slowly round, repeating vv.iy quick, " Tarretlie,
tarreoke," — -the sea, the sea; and having got to a bearing about
E.S.E., he suddenly stopped, accompanying the action with the ob-
servation of" Tarreoke nagi," iScc. ; importing that in that direction
there was no sea, but plenty of musk-oxen. He was also acquainted
with AkkooIcO; which niy readers will perhaps recollect as havinj;

hecn nam
Strait, an(
iribe took
keeping w
jutting out
plete turn
(iling surp
vitli many
lained of a
.ween Poin
lie will off
iliis and nui
•et at rest ;
liauge of it
lien have s
iiiconscious
:;c diflicult;
fiices, of w
jitunate in
II. Parry's w
pater than
-m& for examf
espective al
mi each oth<
However,
Ik word " ti
mliich latter
Informalio
ijiial to the
pinching, 01
Itlianged my
ur new acqi
Iriie request \
ivo succeeded
I was indebte
im], whethe
less of their i
eenied, mori
y one of till
ealculy askc

FrilliNDLINESS OF THE ESQUIMAUX.

2tfl

been named to Sir E. Parry by the EsquimauK in Hecla and Fury
Strait, and intimated by a repetition of the same movement that his
iiibe took that course to go thither. From this action, perfectly in
Lepping with the outhne he had drawn, it was natural to infer the
jiitting out of some promontory, from which the shore took a com-
jilete turn south of our position ; an intimation which, far from ex-
iling surprise, only strengthened the opinion which, in common
xith many others conversant with the subject, I had always enter-
uined of a continuous coast line, probably indented with bays, be-
ween Point Turnagain and some part of Regent's Inlet. Had it been
liewill of Providence that poor Augustus should have been with me,
ills and numberless other uncertainties would have been definitively
ii at rest ; but where there is no common language for the inter-
liaiige of ideas, all conclusions must at best be uncertain; and few
icn have so much mastery over themselves as not to lean almost
iiconsciously towards a preconceived opinion. Independently of
ic difficulty of catching the meaning of their ouickly uttered sen-
:nces, of which the sounds escaped the memory, I was further un~
jitunate in the dissimilarity of my vocabulary (taken from Sir
E, Parry's works) to their dialect; though this, perhaps, was not
;reater than might be found in the same distance any where else,
jsfor example between London and some parts of Lancashire, the
tspective aboriginals of which would be not a little puzzled to find
111 each other's meaning.

However, as regarded the Esquimaux, there could be no mistaking
iie word " tarreoke," — the expressive action, — or the delineation,
iliich latter I have preserved.

Information was now brought me that the crew were quite un
Rial to the task of conveying the boat over the portage, even by
aiinching, our last resource. So, like a prudent general, 1 at once
(hanged my tactics; and, taking advantage of the good-humour of
111- new acquaintances, requested them to give us a helping hand.
Hie request was cheerfully complied with, and, with their assistance,
vp succeeded in carrying the boat below the fall; so that, in reality,
was indebted to them for getting to the sea at all. Altogether in-
jpcd, whether owing to their natural inoff'ensiveness or to the few-
less of their numbers, they were good-natured and friendly. They
eenied, moreover, to have some notion of the rights of property ;
or one ofthrm having picked up a small piece of pemmican, re
ealcdly askcvl my pcrmis.'sion before he would cat it.

i«t .1

m m

i ■ \ ■

i ^

'I
i 'I

;'

fl

Wi

MOUTH OP THE THLEW-EE-CHOll.

loppe

Back's
The
)y the
iD inte
loresis
are nc
lie ma
tliinent
jir Ge^
ispedit
!D adj
leslwa
landed
ivtheji

It was late when we got away, and then the breoad and deep
bays of the river so puzzled us that we went astray. Having at last,
with much trouble, regained the current, we were carried to some
mountains on the western shore, where we encamped, and appointed
a watch ibr the night.

By 4 A. M., July 29th, we were afloat; but the weather was cloudy
and cold, with a northerly breeze, and the thermometer at 41/.
At sunrise a fog began to spread, and soon became so dense that
we found ourselves in the midst of several rapids before we were iti
the least aware of their presence ; and subsequently the breeze fresh-
ened, and the fog increased so much, that, unable to see distinctlyf
we were obliged to lie by until it should clear. In the meantima
the sun occasionally broke through the clouds, and enabled me ta
obtain observations, the results of which were, latitude 07" 7 31'
N., longitude 94" 39' 45" W. ; and the variation by the sun'f
bearing with Rater's compass, the one commonly used, 8" 30 W. \ licertai
The afternoon permitted us to proceed ; and it was while thread* fas at
ing our way between some sand -banks, with a strong ciirrent> iliout ai
that we first caught sight of a majestic headland in the extreme di* j a sni
tance to the north, which had a coast-like appearance. This impoi^ i fresh
tant promontory was subsequently honoured by receiving the na.nt
of Her Royal Highness the Princess Victoria. The sand-bankp
also now became broken into cliffs, which dwindling away on ihf
eastern side to a vanishing point, subsided on the western into low
flats, the level of whicu ,vas just brokdn by half a dozen sandy knolll lile froi
sparingly tipped with a few blades of dry grass. The banks on ihf
side were cut by several channels leading to the left, but shallow,
and not navigable. The country on both sides was swampy, aii4 okeep j
gradually sloped upwards to the distant mountains. , iictoria

This then may be considered as the mouth of the Thiew-ee-oi. il|i k rock

Iter my
nder-S
)lerably

las not
oe an

i^nipass

and.
The a

which, after a violent and tortuous course of Ave hundred and lhiit|
geographical miles, running through an iron-ribbed country withoi|
a single tree on the whole line of its banks, expanding into fiiil
large lakes with clear horizons, most embarrassing to the uavigaU>i testwar
and broken into falls, cascades, and rapids, to the number of no lef
than eighty-three in the whole, pours its waters into the Polar S
in latitude 67" 1 1 00' N., and longitude 94° 30' 0 W.; that is
say, about thirty-seven miles more south than the month ol tl>|

Sec Appendix

i!t\ in 0

ICE TO THE WKJiTVVAUD.

Wi

load and deep llopper mine River, and nineteen miles more soulb than that of
Having at last, jUack's River at the lower extremity oi" Rathurst's Inlet.

arried to some
, and appointed

her was cloudy

! so dense that
ore we weie in
le breeze fresh*
to see distinctly
I the meantime
i enabled me lo
itude fi7" 7 m
n by the sim'i
ed, 8" 30 W. *
as while thread*
strong currenti
the extreme di»
e. This impo^
leiving the namf

he sand-banki
ng away on tlif
'estern into low
sen sandy knoili
le banks on tliij

t, but shallow,

The rush of the current, opposed by a fresh breeze, and possibly

jy the tide, raised such high and breaking waves as we put out with

intention of gaining the headland, that the laden boat was unable

resist them, and shipped a great deal of water. It became there-

meter at 41 ;°. are not only prudent but necessary to pull into a bay, which in

k map is distinguished as Cockburn's Ray, being so named in com-
jliinent to the first Chairman of the Arctic Committee, Vice- Admiral
!>ir George Cockburn, to whose valuable exertions in organising the
pedition I have already borne testimony. From the summit of
iQ adjacent rock we could discern large quantities of ice to the
teslward, apparently close to the shore, which in that direction ex-
eoded from twelve to fifteen miles; but the view being interrupted
ly the jutting out of the headland, its farther direction could not be
licertained. It must have been high water when we landed, which
fas at 7 p. M. of the day after the last quarter of the moon ; for at
ibout an hour past midnight, the boat, which had been left afloat
3 a snugly sheltered place, was found high and dry on the beach.
I fresh breeze with squalls having continued through the night, it
las not practicable to move until 10 a. m.; and this detention gave
ne an opportunity of getting sights which placed us in latitude
i?20' 31 ' N., and longitude 94° 28' 14" W. : on this occasion the
onipass was placed upon the sandy beach, about a quarter of a
aile from the nearest rocks, and agreed with two others held in the
■land.
The appearance of so much ice to the westward determined me
js swampy, aui jkeep along the high shore where we were; and having rounded
icloria Headland, we passed a picturesque waterfall tumbling from
rhlew-ee-cl. il|j ie rocks above, and came to a high craggy point, which I named
idred and lirul| ilter my friend John Rackhouse, Esquire, the able and excellent
nder-Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. Near this was a
)lerably large island, and some others were seen more to the

country wilhoi|
ii«

ndiiig into

o the navigalo^ westward.

mbcr of no lef
) the Polar Se|

le mou

ihoCili!

The weather was fine and calm, the tide ebbing; and some seals
hi quietly gazed at our invasion of their domain allorded amuse-

W. ; that is t| nent to the men, as they sunk and rose again without causing even

ipple that could be discerned. The shores wei

•ihei

apart ; ami

1 as I wished, if possihl<% to

lip, in order that advantage might be taken of any

now
coast oii
avour

becouiing
the othci
ibic opcn-

ill

m

t

•204

KEFLECTIONS.

iDgs for the passage to Poiot Turnagain, which, under ordinary cn-
cumstances, we had plenty of time to reach, I landed at a mountain
and traced a line of ice from a bay on the western shore to a point
directly opposite, which has been called after Rear- Admiral (iage.
The haze of the atmosphere, however, prevented the distance from
being clearly defined ; but it was at all events cheering to beholtj
clear water as far as the eye could penetrate; and though it was of
course not desirable to get hampered with the western ice, yet I de-
termined to keep it in sight until we should be able to effect a cross^
ing to the main shore beyond it. Some smaii islands were seen to
our left, after which we opened a spacious bay live or six miles deep,
and very broad (called after Captains Irby and Mangles, the Kastern
travellers), which it took us between three and four hours to tra-r
verse. At this time there was every reason to anticipate a pros4
perous issue of our voyage westward within ten days, even tlioiigl|
less distances should be made than during the last ten hours; bui
as we neared a projecting barren rock, about eight hundred feet
high, forming the northern point of the bay (and which has been
designated Point Beaufort, after the present distinguished hydro-*
grapher of the navy), drift ice came round it so suspiciously quick,
that we found it prudent to land for the purpose of securing the
boat from damage by hauling her on the shelving part, where alone
it was possible. Eagerly did I clamber up the slippery sides, in the
hope of beholding from the height a free and open sea; but the first
glance as I topped the crest was sufiicient to chill that hope, and a
careful inspection with the telescope produced the unwelcome con*
viction that our future progress must be worked out, by slow and
laborious efforts. From the horizon to within two miles of wlieraf
I stood glared one solid body of drift ice, connecting both shores.

The shore to the westward was, for a like reason, unapproachable^!
and though a strong southerly gale might disperse the entire mass»
yet there was no predicting when that would happen, \ hilst it was
certain that a very few days of delay would inevitably be fatal to oiii
object. It was, indeed, a mortifying consideration, that alter sur
mounting so many toils and perils on that long and diflicult river, w
might be thus checked at the very place where, from past experienoi
of the sea to the westward, I least expected such a disaster; and
could scarcely help entertaining some ap|>rehensiou, that we mighl
beat the soulheru extremity of;) deep inlet, from which a change ol
wind alone could release us.

Doubly,
.ervice had
iip delay th
July 31st
;iidnisht;y
bout the re
e closely p
I twenty
sending aft
lended wit
,e whole
ore, leavir
iiaX.E. dii
'Ilia bUieb
irc still fa I
;fre at the i
■nvcnient t(
le could sal
;e shocks s
'Aioua, as i
Ssible, I CO
e eastward
Hluff to t
Jely from (
■^ this all :
iTounded u
extiicable d
a unfrequei
e to the ea;
apossible.
iv, and wait
iliich she ha
About 3 p.
piles was ol
[iat time was
le carelessn(
kettles for
ime thing h<
|fiiioiisness o
"icii were v

OUR I'KOfJRESS ARRESTED.

Donhly, therel'ore, was I },'ratoliil that the piimaiy object of the
^rvice had been providentially anticipated. Had it been otherwise,
lie delay thus occasioned would have been slill more mortifying.
July 81st. — A Iresh breeze from the southward sprung up about
idnight; yet a thin crust of ice was formed on the pools of water
bout the rocks. At daylight, the main body of the ice was found to
e closely packed against the western shore, which extended Pftecn
I twenty miles abreast of us, and thence bent i ito a deep bay,
ending afterwards to the northward until it bore N. by W. and
lentled with the icy horizon. The wind had so far acted as to drive
f whole ma.ss near a quarter of a mile away from the eastern
sore, leaving thereby a clear passage for a length of fourteen miles
naN.E. direction. Heyond this we could not define any land, ex-
ni a blue bluff, whose base was while with refra;;ted ice, and which
irc still farther to the right. It was evident, therefore, that we
ere at the narrowest part of the opening, where it would be most
nvenient to cross; if, indeed, this were not the only place in which
e could safely do so, in an undecked boat, already damaged from
ie shocks she had received in the falls and rapids; and, however
!\ious, as it may well be supposed I was, to achieve as much as
ssible, I could not but be sensible that to have pursued the lane to
i eastward, and, according to the Esquimaux's outline, rounded
bluff to the southward, would only have been to depart more
Jely from our course, and to retrograde instead of advancing. Nor
,i> this all : to have taken that course, amidst the obstacles which
mounded us, might perhaps have involved us in perilous if not in
;extricable difficulties; for the westerly gales, which on these shores
tunfrequently commence early in the season, might pack the drift
e to the eastward, so as to render our return in the boat utterly
ipossible. We had therefore nothing for it but to yield to neces-
y, and wait submissively until nature should remove the barrier
liich she had placed,
lilst it \vaj I About 3 p. m. it was low water, that is, an ebb of about eight
fatal to oiif-l:dies was observable on the shingle, and the taste of the water at
after sur-wat time was brackish and bad. We had reason to know this from
lit river, w«e carelessness of my servant, who having been accustomed to fill
expcriencBis kettles for cooking at the river and lakes, thoughtlessly did the
sler; andMame thing here, and consequently spoiled the tea. To beguile the
we miglwdiousness of the detention, I made a regular set of observations,
cliangc oUluch were very interesting, more especially as regarded Hansteen's

linary cii-
mountain,
to a point
iral (Jage.
ance from

to beliol^
1 it was of
?, yet 1 (ie-
!ct a cross-
;re seen ta
miles deep,
he Easterri
urs to tra-
ite a pros4
ven thougl<
hours ; but
mdred feci
h has beei)
lied hvdro^
»usly quick,
ecuring tht
Inhere alone
ides, in tliQ
lut the iii'st

ope, and a

come con-'

y slow and
of wherff

1 shores.

roachal)le;

Intire mass,

'^OG

LAM) IN A BAY.

needle. It was exceedingly diiTiCult te adjust, but remained per
lecliy in after the set was finished. Its vibrations were even an^
regular, but very slow; the interval between each having increase!
to three minutes and five seeouih. On the contrary, Dollond
dipping needle, No. 2., moved more freely than I remembered t
have seen it. The latitude was fi7* 41' 24' N., longitude 95" 2 16'!
W., variation 6°0' W.; thermometer 72" in the tent.

August 1st. — The only perceptible difference in the ice (hji

morning was, that it had closed a little to the east : no openinrf

was seen by which a passage could be made to the other side, iinti(

about 10 A. M., when I fancied that with the telescope I could mA4

out a small lane bearing N. W, The boat was immedialojjl

launched ; and with sails and oars together we effected our piirpos4

in three hours and a half, having passed on our way an island, i(^

which has been given the name of my companion IVlr. King. \Vj

landed in a small bay, as we supposed on the main, not far frool

some old Esquimaux encampments, indicated by four wells or sliaf(|

for the preservation of their meat. A party was immediately dos|

patched to examine the state of the ice in a bay to the westward^

while I walked along the rocks to another point with the saiii«|

view; but the result of our examinations only confirmed our worsi

fears, the ice being closely packed as far as the eye could reach^

However, this also was drift ice, so that all hope was not shut oiii^*

as a westerly wind might and probably would clear a channel inJ

shore; but as there was no immediate prospect of this, the biecz*

being from the N. E., we unloaded, and hauled the boat upon tli#

beach to save her from being crushed by the pressure of the ice,?

The distance travelled this day was about twelve miles from shor^

to shore, and this maybe considered as the narrowest partoftli^

mouth of the estuary. The coast here was much lower anil

shelving than the precipitous and bold one we had left; but \v#

observed the same naked and round-backed rocks as at Point Beau-f

fort; differing, however, in colour, the latter being coniposoi

almost entirely of a light tlesh-tinted felspar and splintery quartz||

whilst these consisted wholly of a dark gray felspar with minut

granular quartz, and perhaps hornblende. Among the debris o

the beach, it was not a little surprising to find fragments of lime

stone, though no rocks of that formation !rad yet been passed.

The following day brought no change ibr the better; lor tli
north-east wind had packed the ice stilt closer to the shore. As i

bs therelb
Linefurthe
alter show(
iifference ol
.aody beach
ihereas on
jvewere eni
iiiallest pie
nd I have
laterial difl

i

jfspatched

jiiain shore,

liiey had ace

km?, the n

ice Montn

eceived fror

ty; and as

;iy own obs(

fat a south-

iiection tow

oinpact mas

I showed a

M., and the

an error o

sgularity ma

eand other

August 3d.

lere was any

tieces, but the

iieless. Inde

aly have reat

le ice was th

nJ apparentl

ind had opei

'uld be easil;

divine servi

The night s

•ill, two pow<

lo find in th

iiished and h

MONTREAL ISLAND

'207

ined |)Pi-
even and
increased
DoMond'^
mbered id

e ice (his
0 opening
side, unlil
3u1d niak^

vas llierelore impossible to move, I look the opportunity of making

^ine fiiither observations on the dip and magnetic intensity, which

jiter showed a less interval; an anomaly ascribable perhaps to the

lUerence of situation, as in this instance the stand was placed on a

jody beach, removed sixty or seventy - irds from the nearest rocks,

ihereas on the former it stood on the very base of the rock where

?e\vere encamped. It is necessary to remark, however, that the

iiallest piece of iron deranged the needles, especially Hansteen's;

nd I have reason to believe that even my brace-buckles caused a

lalerial difference. Towards night some men, who had been

espatched to the westward, reported that we were not on tlie

imedialok """ shore, but on a large island adjoining to it; a discovery which
ley had accidentally made by following two deer until they swam
itfoss the narrow channel of separation. Upon this I called the
ke Montreal Island, in commemoration of the attention we had
eceived from the public-spirited and hospitable inhabitants of that
!v, and as well from the existence of an inner passage, as from
IV own observation of the ice, I began again to entertain a hope
fiat a south-west gale would clear a way for us, though in the
leclion towards which we were bound there was at present one
mipact mass before us to the horizon. A tide-pole which we set
showed a rise of twelve inches; the highest being at 11'' 40"'
M., and the lowest at?'' 20"' v. m. There may, however, in this
^aa error of a few minutes, and it is not improbable that the ir-
igularity may have been augmented by the vast floating bodies of
leand other accidental causes.

\ugust 3d.^ — Parties were sent out in diff'erent directions to see if
leie was any possibility of creeping alongshore among the grounded
eces, but they were all so close that the attempt would have been
dess. Indeed, under the most favourable circumstances we could

ir piirpos4

island, l
ing. Wi
t far fro
Is or sliafl^
liately di'sl
weslwardf

the saiii*'
our worst
uld reach>
it shut oiil^

annel in-^
the breczd

upon iW

of the ice.

GUI slior#
[part ol'lli^^

ower an

Ift- but w# aly have reached a stony point half a mile distant, against which
)int Beau- ^f ice was thrown up in heaps. The main body was still unbroken,

conipose(| '"J apparently unaltejed, except to the eastward, where an E.S.E,
Irv quait?:| lind had opened a partial lane, of which the termination, however,
1th miniilwould be easily traced. Our evening was spent in the performance

debris oiBf divine service,
of lime-B The night set in with a gale from S.S.E., accompanied by heavy

spd. ■*'"' l^wo powerful auxiliaries in our cause; and most agreeable was
lor lli«B 'ol'nd in the morning that they had done good service, having

Ire. As iymshed and heaped a great deal of ice on the beach. With (he

f ■ in

ttU8

ICE RROkEN UP.

I (

<;oiitinuancn of the gale tlio sea rose, and obliged us to move ilic

boat and baggage farther inland ; but this was done checifullv, lor

there was comlorl in watching the havoc made by the lolling sml.

Already it had reduced a barrier of three hundred feet, which p(Tec-

tnally blocked up the communication, to a breadth of not more tlian,

twenty feet ; and this also was destroyed a little after high water at

l'' P.M.* My anxiety forbade me to rest, and I went to the mo'^t-

northerly part of the island, about three miles off, where, lakini^.i

station on a rock about two hundred and fifty feet higli, near some

marks of (he Ksquimanx, I perceived a considerable alteration in llio.

positionof the ice within the last twenty-four liours. It still adiiciod,,

to both shores, from IS.W. by W. to N.E. | E., the former y'n]^e*

unfortunately being nearly abreast of our encampment. Tlios^

were the extremes; but the main and central portion had opcncc

the shape of the letter V, to the width of from ten to twelve niile^

to the northward and westward; thus encouraging the expectalio

that it would yet be forced out as soon as (he effect was felt to sca<

ward. i

To divert the attention of the men, who, having nothing to do,

remembered that they would have to ascend the numerous falls ani

rapids they had come down, and began to magnify the difficulty, and

even to talk of the impracticability of the task, I sent them all aliop

a musk-ox, which I had by chance discovered feeding under the lee

of some high rocks, and which was eventually killed. It was i

young cow; and, being devoid of the disagreeable flavour of the

older animals, afforded us two luxurious meals. Mr. King shot a red*

breasted phalarope, only two of which kind had before been foiin^

in a swamp near the Rock Rapid. The island, indeed, wasliterally co|,

vered with plover, black-breasted and brown phalaropea, and a soi|.

of large brown duck with plumage not unlike that of the hen plicai*

sant. These last were divers, and were at that time busied in tend- ,

ing their young broods, which they defended with great courage

against the attacks of a half-terrier dog that swam after them lor

some time, but was at last fairly beaten off. The birds here uioa--

lioned, with black and white snow-birds, boatswains, gulls, tfiinfj

brown cranes, and loons or northern divers, were the only bir

which we saw. The temperature of a duck just killed was 108

and that of the ground, which was gravelly and frozen at twent

two inches below the surface, 37".

Mew moon.

August
ilie gale I
weed on t
something
fore, thou^
from short
live-and-tv
wind was
land and tl
for the firs
every mile.
Hilling imp
firing had
ignite, and
luxury of a
served our t
fill compou
half the usu
swell had n
there was n
it was an oc
pulled rount
encumbered
squall would
tide was flov
coming on s
once in cold
which was U
able Captain
l)y midnight
not a partich
so unexpecte
gain a blue s
must have be
iiour (such is
tangled in dr
of the main h
rendered ab(
until 2h 30m

I'HOCIIESS NM'STWAKl) 01" THE ISliAM).

200

OVP llicv

illy, lor'
ng siirl'.,
.'h cffpc-
irc tliaa.
water at
ho most
taking a
!ar some
on intJKv
adli(M'e()|»
"v rid^c*
Thosfl
)pcncil ir
Ive mi lei
peclalioi|.

3II to iQAi

ing to do,

9 Tails and

culty, and

I all aflor

cr the lee

It was a

»ur of the

hot a I'pd*

;en found

leraliy co|

ind a soi|i

icn plua?!

d in tend'

It courage

them for

lipi-e nioa-

lills, teii^

nly bii'i

tvas 108

t twcnt

Aiignst 5lh. — The wralher was glooruy, with continupcl rain ; and
die gale kept up a heavy siiiT, which threw several pieces of sea-
weed on the beach. I returned to my station on the hill, and was
something cheered by seeing a larger space of open water than be-
fore, though the same white line of ice extended across the hori/on
from shore to shore at a part where the distance was estiiuated at
live-and-twenty or thirty miles. Hut the beneficial ellect of the
wind was more clearly shown in the channel between Montreal Is-
land and the main, which was now perfectly free; and I waited only
for the first moderating of the weather to take advantage of it, as
every mile, under circumstances like ours, was an acquisition of no
trifling importance. The moss and a sort of fern that we used for
filing had become so saturated with tlic rain that they would not
ignite, and we had consequently to forego our greatest comfort, the
luxury of a warm cup of tea. Pemmican and water, however,
served our turn tolerably well, though the least indisposed to that use-
ful compound had long been satiated, and were now content witli
half the usual allowance. At 10 p. m. there was less wind, and the
swell had rather abated; and although from the aspect of the clouds
there was reason to expect a renewal of the gale rather than a calm,
it was an occasion not to be lost, and the boat was launched. We
pulled round the south-west part of the island, the northern being
encumbered with rocks and shoals, which in the event of a sudden
squall would have proved troublesome, and even dangerous. The
tide was (lowing, and therefore against us; and a dense wet fog
coming on soon afterwards from the southward, enveloped us at
once in cold and darkness. Having passed an extensive opening,
which was taken for a bay, and received the name of the Honour-
ahle Captain Elliot of the Admiralty, sail was made on the boat; and
by midnight we were opposite our old encampment. At that time
not a particle of ice was visible ahead, and the men, encouraged by
so unexpected a sight, put out their utmost strength at the oars to
gain a blue streak of land far away to the north; but one and all
must have been under some optical illusion, for in a quarter of an
hour (such is the uncertainty of all human calculations) we were en-
tangled in drift ice, which but too evidently was the advanced guard
of the main body. Several attempts were made to land, but were
rendered abortive by the shoalness of the water; and it was not
until 2^ 30™ A.M. that, after working with much trouble and no

14

11 J

2iU

KHITIIEII pro{;rehs.

litllo risk to tlic hoaf l)el\vccn ihctltick drifting ice, wc at length siic-
cecdcd. The boat was then nnU)ailct!, and hauled up above liigh-
watcr mark.

The weather was at tliis time ealni, but gh)oinyand unsettled; and
heavy raiu soon I'ollowed. Having rel'reshed the men with a glass
of grog, I appointed -M'Kay, Sinclair, and Taylor, who were the host
walkers, to ))roceed on foot along the coast as far as they could, leav-
ing it to their discretion whether to absent themselves for a longer
time than twenty-four hours, according to the probability that might
exist of our getting forward. IJesides noticing the state of the ice,
thev were desired to examine carefully the nature and trending ol
the western land, on their report of which depended the executidn
of a plan which iiad been for some time in contemplation, as a last
resource in the event of our progress being shortly arrested.

As the day advanced, the rain fell in torrents, and of course pre-
vented the fern from burning ; hut a more grievous spectacle was the
dull white ice drifting again to the southward in melancholy succcs
sion towards the channel through which we had passed; and, by the
occasional gleams of light which broke through the rain-charged
atmosphere, we had the mortification to behold the narrow lino ol
water on which our hopes depended gradually transformed into a
compact and solid field of ice. The eastern shore was but once dis-
tinguishable; and scarcely more so a jxtint much nearer to us,whicli
has been called after the Honourable Captain Duncan, with whom
my former friend and companion, the lamented Mr. Hood, had
served in his Majesty's ship Liffey. Late at night the exploring
party returned, fagged and depressed. They described the land as
being low, and so swampy that at each step they sank to the calf of
the leg, and were only prevented from goingdeeper by the frozen earth
and ice, which at that depth sustained them. The day had been
unfavourable for a distant view; but from a low point fifteen miles
off, the coast was observed to trend westerly towards some high
blue lands like mountains, where there was an appearance of open
water; but whether of the sea, or of an inland lake, the atmosphere
was too hazy to enable them to determine. At the point they had
counted from thirty to forty old Esquimaux encampments, and many
others were seen a little farther off; from whence it may be inferred
that the natives resort to this place in the winter for the purpose of
catching seals. One glimpse only had been caught of the eastern

fc

roast, am

med also

Three de(

August

fresh S.

dreary qu

separalioi

ice, which

might be

in conseqi

had been

trouble to

alloat ever

task was n

sails were

live knots {

from distal

now name(

that had b»]

whole intei

our purpos

had disappc

astonishing

looked doul

particular p

they had se

From a si

for a low sa

marked thai

quitted, it v

only of scati

was the wes

was a consp

trary, was b

from the pol

the end of si

Browne 131 1

name of Ca]

a zealous pn

generally.

CXVE HAV

yil

1

slICCCS-

by the
liargeil
lino o(
l1 into a
ice (lis-
, whicii
whom
(1, had
ploriiig
and as
calfot"
n earth
been
miles
c high
f open '
sphere
ey had
many
iiferred
ose of
astern

roast, and that sliowed it set last with ico, wliich was said to be jam-
med also against tho western beach the whole way of their inai«h,
Threcdeer had been shot, but could not be«'ooked (or want of dry fuel.

August 7th. — After a heavy iail of rain, the sun broke out, and a
fresh S. S. K. wind drove the dark masses of cloud back (o (heir
dreary quarters in the north. In a little while, also, it ell'cclcd a
separation of the pieces, and a conscrjuent general movement in the
ice, which now opening a little, gave me reason to hope that we
might be able to break ground, and get away at high water. Itut
in consequence of the pressure from without, the ice near the beach
had been forced half out of the water; and it cost us incredible
trouble to move some of the many cumbrous pieces thus partially
alloat even a few inches, so as to make a passage for the boat. This
task was not achieved before 2 v. m., when the wind being lair, the
sails were immediately hoisted, and on she went at the rate of about
live knots an hour. A conspicuous promontory to the eastward, blue
j'roui distance, which had been before seen from Point Meaufort, was
now named after Captain IJowles,U. N. ; and such was the change
that hr.d been wrought, in the short interval of a few hours, that the
whole intermediate space was free from impediment, had it suited
our purpose to traverse it. Indeed, the celerity with which the ice
had disappeared from the part where we were now sailing was so
astonishing, that the men, who were novices to polar phenomena,
looked doubtingly, and repeatedly asivod each other if this or that
particular place were not the same which but a short time before
they had seen blocked up and impassable.

From a small rocky island which was passed on the left, we made
for a low sandy point, named after Sir J. IJ. Pechell, Hart., and re-
marked that, scanty as was the vegetation in the parts which we had
quitted, it was here sensibly growing less and less, consisting now
only of scattered tufts, gradually subsiding into sterility. So Hat
was the western shore that a solitary hillock five or ciglit feet high
was a conspicuous land-mark; while the eastern coast, on the con-
trary, was bold and mountainous, as if defying the rage of hail- storms
from the pole. The chain, however, was not of great extent; for at
the end of sixteen miles it terminated in a blulT, laid down as Hutfon
Browne Bluff, and a huge projecting cape, distinguished by the
name of Cape Hay, after the late Under-Secretary for the Colonies,
a zealous promoter of the expedition, and of geographical researches
generally. This was the northern extreme of the eastern coast.

11 «

[I hi:

\'m\

r ! )

^| !.

if i\

Hi

OUR PROGRESS IMPEDED

which in so far coincided exactly with the oiithnc given by the Es-
quimaux; but here we lost all trace of land in that direction, though
from our subsequent position it must have been discovered, had it
not from thence rounded suddenly off, as I believe it does, to the
southward and eastward. Near 8 p.m., after a deiightfu] sail, we
overtook our enemy the drift ice; and getting hampered amongst it,
in the attempt to find a passage round a low island a mile or two
ahead, the northern extremity of which shut out the view of any other
land in that direction, we were compelled to make for the shore,
which, after considerable trouble and some risk of being " nipped,"
we succeeded in reaching. On landing, I directed my steps to i
hillock of sand ten feet high, about two and a half njiles from the
beach, and in going was forcibly struck with the desert-like character
yf the place. It was one irregular plain of sand and stones; and
had it not been for a rill of w ater, the meandering of which relieved
the monotony of the sterile scene, one might have fancied one's self
in one of the parched plains of the East, rather than on the shores
of the Arctic Sea. From this hillock, I discerned a deep bay, bear-
ing south-west, of which the sandy point of our encampment (called
after Vice- Admiral Sir Charles Ogle) formed the eastern extremity;
while the opposite side terminated in another point bearing W.N.W.
The land which encircled the bay was blue and high, and apparently
much encumbered with ice, which stretched from side to side, and
again northerly as far as the horizon. Still, however, there was a
ray of hope, for narrow streaks of open water chequered the sur-
face, like evening shadows on a bright lake.

Rain fell incessantly in the n>ght, and the morning disclosed a
dense wet fog, together with the unwelcome sight of closely packed
ice against the shore. A little after noon there was a storm, with
thunder and lightning; the first I remember to have seen so far not ih.
The steersmen were twice sent to examine the state of the ice as far
as Point Ogle (which was now found to be an island or part of the
main, according as it was high or low water, being connected at the
ebb by a narrow ridge of sand and stones) ; for the wind, having
toward, evening vee'^od to the northward, threatened to carry the
outside drift ice into both openings, and thereby effectually prevent
our moving on inch. To obviate this, it was my intention to have
poled through the inshore ice as far as the narrowest part of the
small isthmus that joined the island to the main, and then to have
made a portage of boat and cargo to the west side, where, at present,

BY MASSES OK ICtl.

2>:<

osed a
jacked
I, with
noE'lli.
e as far
't of (he
!d at the
having
irry the
pi'eveiit
to have
t of the
to have
present.

there was a lane of open water, connected with that leading to the
distant western land ; but the immense size of the pieces, and the
firmness with which they were wedged together, rendered the scheme
totally impracticable. Though the thermometer was at 12% yet,
being wet, we were chilly and uncomfortable, and our cheerless con-
(V;tion was greatly aggravated by the want of fire. A watch was sr*
in the night, to enable us to take advantage of any movement of the
ice which might aid our progress. The steersmen reliijved each
other also in going to and from the island for the fnne purpose;
but all was in vain : it still remained packed, some even floating
southward into the harbour; and, to add to our wretchedness, the
rain scarcely ceased for a moment, and the weather continued raw
and cold. This, together with the want of warm food, excited my
apprehensions for the health of the crew, and the rathei*, as one
(iM'Kenzie) had been for some days svvollen and bloated so as :o be
incapacitated from performing his regular duty, and, what was at
this time of most consequence, from going into the water at all ;
happily, however, no other had as yet complained.

I again crossed over to the hillock through a kind of quicksand,
and saw the land as before, except that a high point was now visible
to the south-west, which seemed to mark it as an island. To the
north and west, nothing but ice presented itself to the view; but due
east, I could distinguish open water and a small island. Southward,
the drift ice appeared in every quarter; and the wind, which had
fot a few points to the westward, had already driven it close into
the shore. To employ the people, they were sent in search of fern
or moss for fuel ; bu* though they went diilerent ways to the distance
of ten miles, their labours was fruitless, for they returned at night
without a single particle.

At 2 p. M. it begaa to rain violently, and continued to do so with-
out the slightest cessation unti! noon the following day (August
IClh), when it was succeeded by a fog. Meantime a great part of
the ice had disappeared, and the boat was soon laden and pulled
to the island ; but there heing no channel, by which we could pro-
ceed westerly, owing to the heavy masses wedged against the
shore, we made a portage, and launched the boat across. The
sand-banks were found to run out several hundred yards, and the
ice to seaward, being packed apparently by a westerly current, had
forced the lighter pieces on shoi-e; which, together with theshoals,
oiubarrassed us beyond measure: however, by pushing some few

> h

\h '

3M

A PIECE or DRIFT-^^(>OD FOUND.

masses aside, and making a zigzag course, we managed to advance
a mile; when, being again stopped, another effort was made, by
causing the people to wade and Hft the boat over the shoals, wliicli
was successfu' enough, until, the water being Uttle more than anclc-
deej), necessity compel led us to encamp. Other narrow lanes were
sounded for a chani:el, but with no serviceable result ; and the tern
perature of the wattr being only 37°, with a north-west bree/c
blowing, and ice to t;ie very beach, it cannot be a matter of asto-
nishment, and much less of blame, that even the best men, be-
numbed in their limbs, and dispirited by tlie dreary and unpromis-
ing prospect before them, broke out for a moment into low mur-
murings that theirs was a hard and painful duly. The boat was
scarcely hauled up, when the fog grew so thick that nothing could
be seen beyond a hundred yards : liitee of the people, however,
went to look for fuel, and the remainder assembled in the teiH (o
hear divine service.

The place where we encamped, and, indeed, every foot ' '■
sandy soil was covered with small shells resembling cockles and bi-
valves. Innumerable rill;: of fresh water ran in opposite directions
from the central ridge. About 8 p.m. the rain began to fall again,
though without at all clearing the fog, and the wind from north
west increased to a strong breeze. A shout of " What have you
got there ?" announced the return of the men: the jocular answer
of "A piece of the iSorth Pole" immediately brought Mr. King and
myself from out the ;ent ; and we found that they had really picked
up a piece of ihtj't-n-ood nine J'tcf foiuf and nine inrhcs in dia-
meter, together with a few sticks of smaller drift-wood and a part
of a kieyack. When the large trunk was sawed, I was rather sur-
prised to see it very little sodden w ith water ; a proof that it could
not have been exposed for any considerable time to its action.
From the peculiar character of the wood, which was pine, of that
kind which is remarkable for its freedom from knots, 1 had no
doubt that it had originally grown somewhere in the upper part of
the country, about the iM'Kenzie ; and of this I was the more com-
petent to judge from my recollection of the drift-wood west of that
'arge river, which it exactly resembled. Though we had strong
reasons to be grateful for this unlooked-for treasure, as affording
us the means of enjoying a hot meal — the iirst for several days, —
yet there were other considerations which gave it in my eyes a far
greater importance. In it I saw what I thought an incontrovertible

proof of

left, and

for it is a

expeditic

an infalli

islands oi

of the se

Angus

laged us

water ;

that, if it

piled up

and, for

live days.

left extren

James Uo

nor any tl

shore wh(

Two islar

land, whi<

arms emb

gclher im

nion I had

clear awaj

degrees ol

King, who

leb''T and

."^c ■'.■e.leb

i i.r lb)

vas throw
upright sk
pressure fi
line of coa
direction;
telescope i
'.'upied myi
jip u.d in
was struck
the magne

p

DISCOVERIES in MK. KIN(4.

21j

proof ot the set ot- 'iurrent Irom the westward along tlie coast to our
left, and that consequently we had arrived at the mainline of the laud;
lor it is a fact well known to the officers of both Sir John Franklin s
expeditions, that the absence of drift-wood was always regarded as
an infallible sign that we had gone astray from the main, either among
islands or in some such opening as Bathuist's Inlet, where, by reason
of the set of the current, not a piece cf any size was found.

August 11 Ih. — A fresh breeze f.'om the south-west had encou-
raged us to hope that the ice would be blown off-shore at high
water ; and bitter, therefore, was our disappointment at finding
that, if it moved at all, it was only to become more wedged, and
piled up piece upon piece. The weather, however, cleared a little,
and, for a few minutes, the sun broke forth for the first time during
live days. We could now make out two islands to the noi th, ihe
left extremity of which was named after my intrepid friend Captain
James Ross; and between it and a bluff bearing N.?S,W., no land,
iior any thing but ice, could be seen. To the westward along the
shore where we were encamped, all was shoal and paved with ice.
Two islands, however, jutted out towards the southern bluff of the
land, which there formed a point, and was apparently one of the
arms embracing a bay. Progress, by any contrivance, was alto-
gether impossible; and this, I must own, began to shake the opi-
nion I had all along cherished, that a strong south-west gale would
clear away the ice, and give us a chance of making at least a few
degrees of longitude. Some more drift-wood wus found by Mr.
King, who likewise saw a muak-ox, and the greater part of the ver-
leh'T and ribs of a whale lying on the beach. A single joint o*" one of
he "ic. lebrae was also picked up at our encampment, it was high

I I ■ • M S^ 15™?. M,; moon, first quarter, change.

I ' ir foUowing morning the ice was so wedged, that for miles it
was thrown up into perpendicular pieces, like a vast area of large
upright slabs, or a magnificent Stonehengc. At the same time, the
pressure fro " seaward forced acres of it on shore, along the whole
line of coast, so as to preclude all possibility of our stirring in any
direction; and this being so, I despatched a party, furnished with a
telescope and compass, to get the bearings to the westward, and oc-
cupied myself during their absence in obtaining observations for the
iip u;d intensity. In placing the instruments into the meridian, I
was struck with the disagreement of the different needles in denoting
the magnetic north. The one then used (I)ollond's^ was u light

U !l.

I :.k

, I.'

210

MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS.

bar needle, and indicated several degrees to the eastward ol" ihosr
which had cards or any other weight attached to them. At lust I
lelt inclined to doubt its accuracy; but, considering its lightness and
(he few times that it had been used as compared with the others, as
well as the iinencssol" the point ol" the pivot, and observing, more-
over, its constancy in returning to zero under various trials, I at
last concluded that it must be right, and adjusted the instrument ac-
cordingly. With the face of the needle to the face of the instrument,
it swung more freely east and west than when turned north and
jsouth; for in the latter position it was sometimes sluggish, and
jerked as if acted on by two powers, whereas in the former the
motion was smooth and easy. When it was reversed the discre-
pancy was still more apparent, and in one instance it did not make
nearly ; '^ same number of vibrations. For this strange deviation I
can assit,:) -cidental cause: on this occasion, in particular, there

was not a pu cle of iron or any metallic substance within three
hundred yards of the tent; for, having remarked on other trials the
danger of having so much as a pocket knife near while the obser-
vations were in progress, I now, to be still more certain, even re-
moved my chronometers, and took off my brace-buckles. Having
got the vertical intensity, and then the dip, which agreed better than
might have been expected, I tried Hansteeu's No. 3. needle for the
horizontal force ; but I cannot easily describe the tediousness of ar-
ranging it in its meridian, which differed much indeed from the
other. When it had at last settled, I drew it on one side 20°; but the
intervals of ten vibrations were irregular, varying from 3' 50 ' to
3' 45 '; and through it stopped at its zero in live minutes afterwards,
I found the marked end had moved easterly 6", and so approached
nearer to i . ollond's. Having waited some time longer, during which
it kept stationary, I made a fresh set from that zero; but the result
was not more satisfactory than the preceding; and, finally, instead of
settling at its last, it returned to its first zero. Had it not been for
the variation in this point, i. e. the arc between the two zeros, I
should have attributed, and probably with truth, the apparent diffe-
rence in the interval of vibrations to the want of a fixed index or
reading glass for enabling me to determine the precise moment of
the turn of the needle: for so torpid was it, that it seemed actually to
stop dead at the extremity of each arc, so as to render it a matter of
great nicety for the observer, even when assisted by a good lens, to
say when that instant was. In order to decide between the two, a

f

«et was D
lilTerence
lowever,
omj)ass,
Princess
^ervals of
lian those
lequence ii
ivo severa
k slighej;
reiver, to
ccasions,
I'cled, — in
iliile it wa
ind in the s
iic vibratio
flliis, 1 sh
Hound it n(
jeedle opp*
wulh, so t
, .No chang
jiny alterati
exatiously
'aliie ; and I
md almost (
rom the sea
^nd had n
noon, andj
the sky to
jeiiial weat
lie murky c
111' situatior
lulness whic
wpe of betti
0 gather, ai
M and hu
md reporte(
ilielaud for
'I' eighty fe<
!iat Hat des(

EFFECT UPON THE COMPASSES

917

if those
I lirst 1
ess ami
bers, as
, more-
ls, 1 at
lent ac-
rument,
rth and
$b, and
mer the
discre-
et make
viation I
ir, there
lia three
;rials the
e obser-
even re-
Having
Itter than
e for the
iss ofar-
rom the
; but the
\ 50" to
jrwards,
iroached
)g which
le resuh
istead ol
een for
zeros, I
nt diffe-
ndex or
ment of
Itually to
latter of
lens, to
two, a

r

set was next noade with the lozenge needle, which showed an entire
JilTerence from Ilansteen's of 22" in marking the nortli ; coinciding,
iiiowever, in this respect exactly with Dollond's. The delicate pocket
;omi)ass, graciously presented to me by Her Uoyal Highness the
Princess Victoria, was in this difficulty extremely useful. The in-
'^ervals of .le lozenge needle were, as usual, considerably shorter
bn those of No. 3., namely, 1' 28"; and, what was of greater con-
quence in the present interesting case, they were quite regular in
xo several trials, and in both the needle returned to its zero without
tie slighest deviation. One remark I feel it my duty, as an ob-
<iver, to make, though it may possibly be unfounded. On two
coasions, that is, at Rock Rapid and here, No. 3. seemed to be af-
•cled, — in the one case by the accidental scraping out of a kettle
liile it was swinging, at a distance of one hundred and fifty yards;
ind in the second case by the simple scraping out of a keg. Whether
('vibration produced thereby in the atmosphere was the occasion
illiis, 1 shall not take upon me to determine; but on all occasions
lound it necessary, in order to prevent a s wagging motion in the
itedle opposed to the rotatory one, to hold my hand before my
mith, so that my breath might not fali on the instrument.
No change occurred in the ice throughout the day, nor was there
ny alteration calculated to diminish the annoyance of being thus
exatiously detained at a time when every minute had a compound
alue ; and to our personal discomforts was added the want of tire,
10(1 almost of fresh water, though the precaution of filling our kegs
Tom the scanty oozing of the shallow rills but just discernible in the
sand had not been forgotten. As it was the first quarter of the
noon, and just about the change, many an anxious glance was cast
it the sky to windward, in hopes of discovering som« token of more
.enial weather ; and a length a gleam of sunshine broke through
lie murky clouds, and partly dried our wet and chilly clothes. In
situation even this was counted a blessing, and diffused a cheer-
lulncss which, notwithstanding past disappointments, renewed the
ope of belter times. vSoon, however, the dark clouds began again
0 gather, and, as the sun dipped below the northern ice, all was
will and humid as before. The exploring party returned at 1 1 p.m.,
and reported that, with hard labour, they had been able to follow
leland for fifteen miles, and had gained a green hill about seventy
r eighty feet high, which, being the most remarkable feature in
iial Hat desc;t of sand, was named Mount Barrow, after Sir Joltn

'5f

MM

111

pJi

i

i

21S

UEMOTESr DISCOVERIES.

Ikrrow, Bart., whose name is inseparably connected with modern
discovery in the polar regions. From the summit of this height an im
mense opening was seen, fifteen miles wide, whose extreme bearings
were S.W. fifteen, and N.N.W. thirty miles. It was bordered
on the west by low alluvial land, which stretched out from the foo
of a blue range of mountains coming from the south and terminating
at the extreme distance in a bluff.

Parallel to these on the right, and forming the east side, was lli
extensive tract of high land, of which the north-western angle wai
opposite the encampment : but the elevation of this latter rangi
gradually decreased as it bent to the north ; and, except in thos
parts where there were isolated rocks with large stones on them
the space beyond was so low, that with a telescope a white foj
could be plainly descried hanging over a glittering line of ice at ili^
farthest limit of vision to the north. That western extreme 1 named
after my esteemed friend and former companion Dr. Richardson
R.N., many of whose opinions respecting the Thlew-ee-choh an
its confluence with the sea have proved to be singularly correct,
The southern point, near Mount Barrow, was honoured with thi
name of Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy. A little drift-wood was pickei
up, but no other kind of fuel could be found, though two deer wer
seen trotting over the ground, possibly in search of food.

August 13th. — The morning set in with rain, for which custo
liad now taught us to look as a thing of course; but a faint hope w
excited by the view of a narrow lane of water, which had opened
how or from what cause we knew not — outside, between the ground!
ed ice and the main body; and preparations were already making'
for a start at high water, when the wind suddenly chopped roim|
from S. E. to N. W., and fixed us once more to the spot. We crep|«
sullenly under our sorry places of shelter, and, without utterini
more than a monosyllabic answer to as short a question, preparei
to pass, as we best could, the tedium of another restless night.

At 5h 30™ p.:m., when the tide was at full, the ice was wedged ai
before to the shore, and not ten yards of open water could be seei|
in any direction ; thermometer 42". About 1) i'.m. there was a sho
lull, the ominous stillness of which was soon disturbed by an E.S.
wind, that shortly increased to a smart gale; and it is worthy
remark, that the ice, which had remained unmoved by the win
from S., S. W., W., and iN.E., now, as if acted on by magic, began
to drift W. N. W. with great rapidity. 1 was convinced, therefor

!jM'<ere nin
y deep op
iiiiense ext(
lis (hen i\\
janncl enlir
volution ani
Hii's were
(fly on the
me betraj
jsses off the
jJsky; and
iiiie. The n
mng point,
lis near th(
I wet fog u
?ry object di
■it breeze in
'<, which no\
iJ threatened
avoid this,-
jl result, — I
(en the few (
i)uld occur to
could be I
ilie eastward
ked to take
^ineasiness in
iJdition to tl
oing to yield
Us corabine(
icrity displaye
^ally manifest
ihe exertior
|»as not less h(
s brought to
iicli the crew
is safely conv
'rnt to make u
Hresh gale 1
^fiiig (he great i

HETL'IIN TO THE ISLAND.

2in

,ji!>'ei'e nuist be, in that particular bearing, either a main sea or a
y deep opening, to allow the escape of so great a portion of the
iiiiense extent of ice before us; for, had the dispersion continued
lis then rate, a very few hours would have sufficed to clear the
jnncl entirely. Late though it was in the season, this sudden
volution animated our drooping spirits, and three or four anxious
Hiis were passed in anticipating the possibility of yet Jloating
(ely on the western main. But again the inconstancy of the
m& betrayed us, and, as the rising tide moved the grounded
jsses off the sands, a thick fog came on, which obscured earth
Jsky ; and the wind shifted round to IN'. W., which was dead on
le. The night was cold, for the thermometer sunk below the
wing point, and ice of half an inch thickness was formed on the
ols near the beach.

\wet fog ushered in the morning of the 14th August, and left
;ry object dark and indefinable at eighty or ninety paces distant.
ie breeze increased, and was fast packing the seaward body of
i, which now came with considerable velocity towards the shore,
^threatened to lengthen our tedious and most annoying detention,
avoid this, — as to remain where we were could lead to no bene-
il result, — I gave orders for the boat to be taken quite light be-
leen the few open spots of water inshore, and where impediments
uld occur to be lifted over, so as to return to the island, where
could be launched across, and so carried into the free space
ilie eastward of Point Ogle. This decisive step I was the more
luced to take from having observed of late increasing symptoms
saeasiness in my leading men with respect to their return ; whilst,
addition to the other invalid, the health of Sinclair was also be-
Ding to yield either to the continual exposure to cold and wet, or
liis combined with the want of hot and wholesome food. The
itrity displayed by the men, on receiving my directions, unequi-
dly manifested their feelings at removing from so dismal a scene;
the exertions put forth in no common diHiculties proved that
d be seeijfl'as not less hearty than gencal. The boat, being dragged across,
sashor| '> brought to the place of our former station of the 0th ; after
E.S.Ej '"^li ihe crew went back four miles for the baggage. The whole
orthyol "s safely conveyed over by 8 i*. m., when the water kegs were
the wini ™t to make us a kettle of hot cocoa,
ic, began ^ fresh gale from N. W. continued, with little or '' alteration,
heicforel fmgthe great part of the night; but in the morning .tugusl 15th)

modern!
it anim-l
bearings
)ordered
the foot
minating

was the
ngle was
er range

in those
on them,
,'hite foj
ice at th
! I name
:hardson
choh ani

correct,
i with thi
'as picke
leer wen

1 custor
lope w
)ened
ground
makln
ed roum
We ere
utterini
)repare(
ht.

edged ai
i

IS

m

^'

830

CONJECTURES AS TO A N.W. PASSAGE.

i I

tlie weather became calm, and the ice again set in to the southwar
I went to the hillock once more, and saw one closely packed nia
of drift ice extending from the beach to the horizon, beyond wliiJ
there was a bright yellowish white blink. This was in the diieJ
tion of the N. N. W. bluff, which I have named after my IViej
Captain Maconochie, R. N., of whose zeal and intelligence In t|
cause of geographical science I have elsewhere made mention.
the north were the same two islands that had been previously sc
the eastern extremity of which was called Point Booth, from iVl
(now Sir Felix) Booth, whose munificent patronage of arctic d|
covery is too well known to need any tribute from me : they seen
to be of considerable extent. To the N. E. there were water aj
ice, and beyond it a dark gray, or what is denominated a water sb
"while from the east to Cape Hay there was an open sea, witl
single island, bearing E. by S. and laid down as Ripon Island,
of respect to the Earl of Ripon, under whose auspices and dir(
tions it was my good fortune to act. The only barrier between!
and the open water was a stream of ice, about live hundred yai
wide, which, for the present, was wedged against the shore,
prevented our moving.

From these appearances, the fact of the flood tide coming, sol
as I could judge, from the westward, the drift-wood, and (he wha
there seems good reason for supposing a passage to exist bet\v(
Point Maconochie and Point James Ross. Whether the nor
eastern clear space is connected with and a part of the West^
Gulf of Captain Sir John Ross, I cannot undertake to determin
but 1 think I am warranted in an opinion that the Esquima
outline, the sudden termination of Cape Hay, and the clear se&
that particular direction, are strong inferences in favour of
existence of a southern channel to Regent's Inlet. On this subjj
it may perhaps seem idle now to speculate ; but, had I not knoj
of Captain Ross's return, and it had thus been our duty to follj
the eastern rather than the western passage, there seemed
obstacle to prevent our doing so. We must have been can
nearer to the Victory, and thus, with the permission of Providen
we should have been enabled, had it been so required, to execj
some pari of the humane project in which the expedition
ginated.

I shall not alteuipt to describe what were my feelings at lind|
my endeavours baflled in every quarter but the one with wbl

DETERMINE TO RETURN.

it-21

oulhwarB
eked ma
ond win
the dire
my Trie
ince in t
jntion.
ously sec
I, from ^
[ arctic d

imevcr interesting as regarded the trending of tlie land) I had no
jcern. When the mind has been made up to encounter disasters
J reverses, and lias fixed a point as the zero of its scale, however
a lime it may be depressed by doubts and diHicuUies, it will
unt up again with the fiist gleam of hope for (he future; but,
his instance, there was no expedient by which we could over-
jic the obstacles before us: every resource was exhausted, and
,as vain to expect that any efforts, however strenuous, could
ill against the close-wedged ice, and the constant fogs which en-
jped every thing in impenetrable obscurity. No one of course

and dir(
between I
ndred yai
5 shore,

ming, so
d the wh;

bey seem :rcgret so much as I do that the important and interesting object
3 water a licertaining the existence of a passage along the coast to Point
. water si rnagaiu was not accomplislied ; but if there be any who think
sea, will lillle was achieved, in comparison with what was undertaken
Island, (ft )iigh such a notion can hardly with justice be entertained), let
11 reflect that even in the ordinary pursuits of men, with all the
iiances of civilized life to boot, the execution is rarely equal to
[conception ; and then also consider how much greater the im-
ments must be in a climate where the elements war against all
ii(lers,and confound the calculations and set at nought the talents
Q of such men as Parry and Franklin.

had for some time cherished the notion of dividing the party,
ist betwejii ing four to protect the boat and property, whilst the remain-
r the norfli- with Mr. King, would have accompanied me on a land journey
e Weslamjaids Point Turnagain ; but this scheme was completr.ly frustrat-
delermintf|l)y the impracticability of carrying any weight on a soil in which
Esquimaw|very step we sunk half-leg deep ; destitute of shrubs or moss for
clear seuiii| and almost without water; over which we must have travelled
our of aflilays to have made even a few miles of longitude ; and where,
this subjHilly, if sickness had overtaken any one, his fate would have been
not knoBvitable. Thus circumstanced, therefore, and reflecting on the
ly to follA and dangerous stream, combining all the bad features of the
seemed Brst rivers in the country, that we had to retrace, the hazards of
falls and rapids, and the slender hope which remained of our
iining even a single mile farther, I felt that I had no choice, and,
mbling the men, I informed them that the period fixed by his
ijesty's Government for my return had arrived ; and that it now
y remained to unfurl the British flag, and salute it with three
s at lin(l||fers in honour of His IMost Gracious Majesty, whilst his rovai
with whliiiie should be given to this portion of America, by the appellation

keen can
'rovidet
to exec|
ledition

;>'!

ir|i

I !

){'

I

'i'i'i

STORMY WEATHER.

ol" William the Fourth's Land. The intinialion was received wuW
«;xtrcme satisfaction; and the loyal service performed with tli»
cheering accompaniment of a small allowance from our limited:
lemaining stock of spirits.

The latitude of this place was (i8« I IV 57' N., longitude, Ub:)^
\" W.,and variation, as well as the sluggishness of the instniiiioni i ''''7'"^"
would allow me to determine, I" K» \V. From this it appears that J '<""'"*^''
we were only four miles south of Point Turnagain, which coiise-. I '"^'^"^'h
jpiently bore nearly due west from us. > I panions,

a freer c

ufa glasi

per. Ti

a few hoi

ing with

my that

ilie bustai

ind more

about tlie

a (lull whi

vour, and,

The N.

Re proce(

and as itii

iiiirable

'ige, wou

again. T

and safety

iD (orrents

mainsail o\

CHAPTER \ll.

Exhilarating Influence oC a Hunting Excursion. — Removal of the Esquiniaiix. —
Leave tiiem a Bag ol Peminican. — Accident to the Boat. — Inuadation nl the
Country. — Discovery ol' Esquimaux. — Wise Man of the Trihe. — Critical Pa,
sition in the Rapids. — A Storm. — Adventure of a Lemming. — Eiicam|i||i
Musk-ox Rapid. — Meeting with Mr. i\I'Leod. — Fate of Williamson. — Thiij
Yellow Knives. — Encamp on Artillery Lake. — Reach the Ah-liel-dessy. -
Depart for Montreal. — The Sauteaux Indians. — Success of a Missionary ad
Sault Ste. Marie. — Return to England. — Conclusion.

During the night the ice had parted sufficiently to allow of o
reaching open water, and with a fair wind we went about twen
miles south, where, for the second time in nine days, we partook
a warm meal. Three stars were seen. Hain fell in abundaii
the whole of the night and following day ; and as it was accompani
by a strong breeze, we were unable to move until 9 p.m.; whe*'" fact,
tempted by a lull, we set out on the traverse to the eastern sho™'^''mmon g;
We were soon, however, enveloped in a thick fog, which slioiA August 2
turned to a heavy rain, and drenched us to the skin. The peopHi^ewere ba
exerted themselves to the utmost, and yet we did not reach PoiBMouth of th
Beaufort until past two in the morning. ■s'loals at its

Ai.j,'"st 17th. — A N. W, gale set in with such fury, that w^in, which
were obliged to move the boat from where she had been haulMf^'ight at h
up to a more safe and sheltered place to leeward, and there also »as shut ou
took refuge ourselves from the heavy squalls and the snow thatnow^nge of mo
poured down in large flakes. In the evening divine service was leaPy (lie nam

HENEI'ITH OF RECKEATION.

•i'i^

eivcd Willi
I Willi ihe
)ui- rtmiicti

dc, 1) b :)8!
instrument
ppears tlut
rhich Cdiise*

e Esquimaux. —
miidation nl the
3. — Critical Pot
g. — Eiicamii A
lliamson. — I'hli.
A.h-hel-(less\ . -
a Missionary at

TliP succeeding day hrouglit ns no belter weather ; and the surf
iiul waves were much liighcr. I had U)ng observed a depression
ol spirits in my steersmen, which I had attributed to the noveUy ol
iheir situation, but I couUl not account lor the gh)on» which now
spread itsellas if by infection over the rest; except, indeed, the arlil-
leryinen, whose steady conduct was sucli as to deserve the highest
lOinuiendation. The thing itself was of little inonienl now; but as
melancholy faces and melancholy weather are not agreeable com-
panions, and thinking that some of the party would be benelited by
,1 freer circulation of blood, I sent them to hunt, with the promise
of a glass of grog to any who should bring home something for sup-
per. This infused some activity into them; and after in absence of
a lew hours, they returned cheerful and ruddy with .ercise,bring-
ing with them three fine hares and a brace of ducks, different from
iny that had hitherto been seen. In colour, these last resembled
ihe bustard of the country, with black neck and bill, the latter short
and more curved than in the other kinds ; sepia brown plumage
about the back and wings, with a mixture of black-gray, the breast
a (lull white, and the legs black. They had not the least fishy lla-
vour, and, plain boiled, made us an excellent meal.

The N. W. gale gradually abated in the night, and on the lOth
we proceeded towards the river, aided by a breeze from the east ;
and as itincreased,! beheld witha satisfaction almost painful the ad-
mirable qualities of the boat, which, had there been a clear pas-
sage, would have taken us in the same gallant style to Point Turn-
again. The wind freshened into a gale, and made us seek shelter
and safety under the lee of Victoria Headland. Here the rain fell
IB torrents; and notwithstanding the additional covering of the
mainsail over the tent, it was impossible to keep it out. The storm,
in fact, partook more of the character of a hurricane than a
common gale, and it was difficulty we could keep the tent up at all.

August 21 . — The wind gave place to a dark wet fog, so thick that
we were barely able to start by creeping along the land towards the
mouth of the river ; and after getting frequently on shore upon the
slioals at its mouth, we entered it in the afternoon amidst heavy
fain, which, however, some of the people scarcely noticed in their
elight at having fairly left the ice; one, indeed, as soon as the sea
las shut out from view, tossed up his cap for joy. The western
ange of mountains, extending to Point Kichardson, was honoured
y the name of her IMost Gracious Majesty; others which were

8«4

LEAVE A HA(1 OF PEIMMICAN.

visible in the evening, after Tiancis (/hantrcy, Ksq.; and the caslcm
range was distinguislied after her Hoyal Highness the Duchess of
Kent. The night was again rainy, an«I after a long detontion we
reached the lower fall, w'lerc in our descent we had found the V.s-l
(juimaux. They had disappeared, which I much regretted, not onlyf
because my pockets were laden with presents for thetn, bul because'
1 wanted to make some more sketches, and to show them the survey
of the coast as far as we had been, and obtain, if possible, some Im-f
ther information. The water in the river had fallen three feet, andr
thereby allorded a facility for launching the boat over a point.
where the baggage was .^o carried. Having proceeded four miles
farther to a line of heavy rapids, an Esquimaux was seen on ilie
hills; and shortly after the two tents which we had before visiled
were discovered, pitched on the eastern bank of a strong rapid, the
eddies of w hich probably furnished an ainple supply of ilsh. It was
impossible for us to cross without endangering the boat, and we
commenced making two long portages, while the natives watched us
with much composure from the opposite heights, where they were
all seated in a line. As we could not attract them to us by any sign;),
a number of iron hoops were placed on a pile of stones ^^illi va-
rious-coloured ribbonds atttached to them ; besides v-threft
awls, fifteen fish-hooks, three dozen brass rings, and two pounds
of beads. All this was done under their eyes ; they could scarcely
fail therefore to understand its friendly import, and that our inten-
tion was to benefit them. My only fear was lest such, to them in-
estimable wealth would stir up quarrels among them, from any real
or fancied inequality in the distribution.

We encamped near the next rapid. It blew too hard on the fol-
lowing morning to allow us to move, and we saw the Esquimaux
watching us from behind the rocks. About noon, two of tlicm
brought their kieyaks to the water's edge opposite to us, with the m*
tention, as we supposed, of crossing over ; but having waited unli|
the wind fell without any further attempt on their part to move,
left a bag of pemmican on another heap of stones as a further sub
stantial proof of our kind intentions, and finally pushed ofl', takin
the western rapid, which communicated with Lake Franklin. Itsshal|
lowness gave us much trouble, but with the aid of the line the boal
was at length bawled up. The sails were immediately set-, and thougl
there was a considerable sea in the more exposed part of the lake, wft
scarcely took in a drop of water. The weather became somewbai

finer as w
fi'Oiu rain.
ining aero
be food

August

liUlc doji

I the water,

wind bein

were relin

all the wii

lengthened

nind took

)I()unt Mci

deer were

amiuunilioi

10 the next

which was

smaller roi

laitity of th

(ler the pr

fulling and

caused the

and some w

quite dry ; i

we encampi

The next

when we as

severely aga

bow: howev

reach our c;

covered, as

llie rain a gr

and was car

rauder, bipe

it. At this g

I'oute, we ri

oar which hi

ili'owned dec

up, and it w;

end. A fait

ACCIDENT TO Till; m»\T.

•ja>

some fiir-
fect, and,
I' a point,
our miles
n on (lie
re visiled
'U|)i(l, tlie
1. It was,
t, and we
;atched us
they were
any signs,.
v'ith va-
v-tlireo
0 pounds
scarcely
our inten-
thera in-
any real

Dn the fol-

quiniaux

of tlicia

th the im'
ted unlit,

0 move, I

iher sub
(i; takin
Itsshal
the boal

id thouglt
lake, we
omewhat

finer as we ndvanccd tlirongh the loiintry, but not altoi<otlier freo
tiotn rain. As we passed u rapid, awhile wolf was seen swim-
mingaiTOss with sonielliing in its inoutli, which was supposed to
be food for its young.

August 2r)lh. — The rain poured down in such torrents, that the
little dog woke ino by scranihhng under my cloak to escape from
the water, which was running in a stream through the tent. The
\vind being with the current, our oars were of little service, and
were relinquished foi- the line. This of course obliged us to round
all the windings and small bays along the banks, and consequently
lengthened the distance ; but on the succeeding day, a line leading
wind took us to the foot of some rapids, and subsequently to
Mount iMeadowbaul , on whose shelving side many nuisk-oxen and
deer were feeding. In the alternoon we picked up our cache of
amimmition, and by avoiding a wide opening shortened the distance
10 the next rapids. The tracking along the banks of this part,
which was steep and co' red with large boulders, mixed with
smaller round stones, w. exceedingly fatiguing from the uncer-
uinty of the footing, the shingly surface geuer.i' \ sliding away un-
der the pressure of each step, so that the people were constantly
falling and hurling themselves. Tlie lowness of the water too
laused the navigation of many parts to be exceedingly intricate,
and some which, in descending, the boat had passed over were now
luite dry ; nevertheless, we made such good progres- ihat at night
we encamped below the Wolf Rapid.

The next day was too foggy to allow us to start until 10 a. ai.,
\\\\eii we ascended ihe rapids ; in one of which the boat struck so
severely against a sunken rock, that she was stove under her larboard
bow: however, by caulking with oakum and grease, we contrived to
reach our cache of two bags of pemmican, which had been un-
covered, as was supposed, by the wolvereens. By this exposure lo
the rain a great proportion was too much damaged for consumption,
and was carefully covered up again for the benellt of the first ma-
rauder, biped or quadruped, that might have ihe luck to fall upon
it. At this spot the boat was cobbled up ; and, again pursuing the
route, we reached Escape Rapid, where we found a piece of the
oar which had been broken in the descent, and was now lying by a
drowned deer in one of the eddies. The Tails were too heavy to haul
up, and it was late before we had carried every thing to the south
end. A fair wind, however, was not to be lost ; and, after taking

1.-)

il 1

! mm t

y' ■,

22(>

INUNDATION OF THE COUNTRY.

up another cache ir. excellent order, we proceeded as I'ai
as Sinclair's Falls, near which some ice yet lingered on the
banks, and the grass and moss were still of a brownish
hue. The season, indeed, had been generally untoward •
lor there was not a single berry, and, what was more sur-
prising, scarcely a mosquito or a sand-fly — a proof that the
summer must have been an extraorJinary one, and altogether
different from such as had been formerly exper enced. Three or
four musk-bulls were seen grazing singly and apart, under the lee
of rocks or sand-hills : they were not much scared at our approach •
but, as they were not eatable, we did nut molest them. Towards
evening, two white wolves trotted past, evidently on u.<} scent oi" a
poor wounded deer that had taken refuge on an island about a mile
from them. Having made a portage, we reached the Rock Rapid,
of which we had intended to try the eastern side ; but perceiviii"
that it was certainly the less eligible of the two, we followed the
old passage, and by 2 p. m. were safely in Lake Macdougall. From
the summit of a rock, I saw, with surprise, that the whole country
way inundated ; that which in July had been dry and green beiug
now converted into a wide swamp.

Jt was not without difficulty and anxiety that we ascended the
long and dangerous line of rapids leading to Lake Garry, whose
smooth and glassy surface presented a striking contrast to its wir..ry
covering of five weeks ago. A sand-hill that had served the same
purpose before was again selected for our encampment, and a more
certain evidence of the torrents of rain that must have fallen could
not have been afforded, than by the spectacle of whole fields of un-
broken moss, which had been swept away in a body from the face
of the summit (a height of sixty feet), and was strewed like a car-
pet along the beach.

August 3 1 St. — Having made the traverse to that part where the
ice had first detained us, we were rather astonished at seeing a
number of mrrks on a point which none of us recollected Jo have
observed when passing it before : accordingly, they were examined;
and, from their apparent freshness, and the newly gathered moss
abo. t, it was evident that they could not have been up many days,
There were also numerous tracks of men and dogs on the sand.
The weather was rather hazy; so that, at the moment, objects could
not be clearly made out ; but, as we were pulling alongshore.
M'Kenzie thought he espied a deer on the stony summit of asloj.-

iiig hill,

J becner(

'I covered

panions

cealed u

them to

would h

but purs

lilting th

rounded

whom b(

piotectio

each beii

leiligible i

not appro

demonstr

were abr(

and rocks

'.villing to

As soon a

intention 1

I keeping, h

lions, and

way. H

when som(

Ity the sam

ceived, infi

«ise man c

giowling a

liands and

uit to forr

il>out sixty

only four ki

of Wager !

•Septenib

Lake Pell>

I'lnd; and s

willows and

were quietl

:

THE WISE MAN OF THE TRIBE.

'i'il

I as la I

on the ,
)ro\vnish
toward ;
3re sur-
that the
Itogethcr
Three or
ir the lee
pproach ;
Towards
icent oi" a
mt a mile
ck Rapid,
)erceiving
owed tlie
ll. From
e country
een being

:nded the

ry, whose

ts wifury

the same

nd a more

en could

ds of un-

the face

ke a car-

vhere the
seeing a

i fo have

xamined;

ired moss

any days.

the sand.

ects could
mgshore.
if asloi.-

, :iig hill, which terminated in a point where many more marks had
j been erected similar to those lately left. It wa-^, however, soon dis-
^ covered to be an Esquimaux; and, presently, two more of his com-
panions rose up from behind some rocks, where they had lain con-
cealed until, 3s they thought, we were far enough from them to allow
them to venture out. Convinced, from their manner, that they
would have fled, we did not think it wortli while to return to them,
but pursued our course; and, v/hen wc least expected it, just after
lilting the boat over a shoal, came suddenly upon twelve tents, sur-
rounded by a swarm of men, women, and children; the latter of
whom began to howl and cry, and fled hastily behind the rocks lor
protection. The former displayed almost as much uneasiness ; and,
each being armed with his spear and sling, hallooed and made in-
telligible signs, by the im ♦ient waving of one hand, that we should
not approach them. Mevertheless, we advanced, making the usual
demonstration of friendship by raising up both arms; but, when we
were abreast of them, they letreated with precipitation to the tents
and rocks; and, having no interpreter to dispel their fears, and un-
willing to add to their consternation by landing, we pulled slowly on.
As soon as they perceived ibis, and were satisfied that we had no
intention to hurt them, an elderly man ran after us along the rocks,
keeping, however, at a respectful distance; and with loud vocifera-
tions, and the same action with the hand as before, still bade us go
away. He had not proceeded above a couple of hundred yards,
when some of his friends prepared to follow him. This he forbade
by the same wave of the hand that was used to us; and then we per-
ceived, infinitely to our amusement, that this was the conjuror, or
wise man of the tribe, and that he was at that moment imitating the
growling and motion of a bear, bending hims>^lf and walking on his
hands and knees, thinking, no doubt, to charm us away. It is diffi-
ult to form a correct opinion of the numbers of the party; though
about sixty or seventy would probably be near the duth. We saw
only four kieyaks; and 1 fhink it probable that they were inhabitants
of Wager Bay, or CheLterfield Inlet.

SepteHiber 1st. — Having hauled up the rapid which connects
Lake Pell) with Lake Garry, wc picked u!> our cache at the is-
land; and subsequently passed another, half covered with old drift
willows and quills. A herd of musk-ox:'^ and a few straggling deer
were quietly feeding on the sand-hills; and many of the white,

' I

'V •; • ■!

! i

jr»*

22H

A STORM.

brown, and laughing geese were flying about, and seemed to be
collecting for their soutiierly migration.

On the 4th, a hard gale from the N. W. indicated the commence-
ment of the full weather; and, while we were travelling, man)
hundreds of geese flew high past us to the south. It was necessarv
to haul the boat all day; and we ascended between sixteen and twenty
rapids, which, owing to the shallowness of the water, were very
troublesome. Sand-banks and islands appeared in every direction,
and so changed was the face of the river that it was not easy (o
recognise it. In the centre of the Hawk llapid the line broke, and
threw us into a vciy critical situation; one, indeed, which, with a
less active crew, might have been followed by serious consequences.
However, by clinging to the rocks until the damage was repaired,
the boat was held fast, and preven'ed from descending again. As
we advanced, the shoals and bars greatly impeded our progress; so
that, in an ordinary season, the navigation would have been imprac-
tiblc even lor a boat entii-* ly light.

September Gth. — The morning set in with the promise of a fine
day, and a favourable wind heightened the expectation that a con-
derable distance would be made; but so liille are atmospheric ap-
pearances to be depended upon in this tract, that after two hoiuV
sailing the whole sky became darkened, — a mist rose, — and the
rain poured, not in drops, but in lines, as if it fell from so many
spouts; the water, therefore, was soon above the stern sheets, and
wc landed to find shelter, and secure our remaining provision. The
gale soon increased to a siorm that brought with it heavy squalU
and thunder, and extinguished the fire nearly as fast as it was light
ed. However, by perseverance, weather cloths, and sundry other
expedients, we got it at last faii'y kindled — to our great content-
ment, for we had shot a fat deer, and were not a little eager la
change our accustomed dish of old mouldy pemmican for so sa-
voury a repast, though eaten without salt, or any of those apph
ances which luxury has invented for relieving the insipidity and
adding lo the relish of plain boiled meat. The storm continued from
N. E. all night; and though the main-sail had been thrown over the
tent, it was quite inefl'ectual to keep out the rain, which ran in
streams through both. At midnight there was a partial lull, aftei
which it freshened again, and soon blew more furiously than ever,
accompanied with snow, which on the following morning (the 7th;

I

had cov

given a

risen fou

oil the h

outside,

lloods w

silently

within a

ger, it lii

object, ai

the prick

iher insta

Sepfen

had fallei

away, the

it was sor

Min broke

Baillie's P

maux mai

converted

on, with

were solic

with snow

The watei

were won

the upper

the cascad

such assut

situated as

received, {

afloat. C

enough to

attack a w

tain of kill

On Sep

eaten into

the evenin

saw no fr(

previous s

iessly feec

ENCAMP AT MUSK-OX KAPID.

2i9

d to bo

imencc-
?, many
ecessary
3 twenty
!re vei'v
irection,
easy to
t)ke, and
1, with a
qiiencos.
•epaired, .
ain. As ',
gress ; so '^
I imprac-

of a fine
at a con-
leric ap-
0 lioms'
-and the
so many
eels, and
The
squalls
vas light -
y other
content-
ager to
' so sa-
se apph
dity and
ed from
over the
ran in
uU, after
lan ever,
the 7lh ;

on.

had covered the surface of the hills and ground around us, and
i^iven a wintry aspect to the scene. About 10 »>. m. the water had
risen four feel, when, for the third time, the boat was hauled higher
oil the bank. So completely cold and drenchod was every thing
outside, that a poor little lemming, unable to contend with the
tloods which had driven it successively from all its retreats, crept
silently under the tent, and snuggled away in precarious security
within a few paces of a sleeping terrier. Unconscious of its uaii-
ger, it licked its fur coat, and darted its bright eyes from object to
object, as if pleased and surprised with his new quarters ; but soon
the pricked ears of the awakened dog announced its fate, and in ano-
ther instant the poor little stranger was quivering in his jaws.

September 8th. — The morning was gloomy ; but as the wind
bad fallen, we gladly availed ourselves of the opportunity to get
away, though the current was strong, and the weather so thick that
il was sometimes difficult to find the right channel. About 9 the
sun broke out, and allowed us to dry our wet clothes. Passing
Baillie's River, we ascended the long rapid where the lirst Esqui-
maux marks were seen, and found the country on either side quite
converted into a swamp. Towards evening a IN. W. gale came
on, with sleet and snow, and the next morning all the creeks
were solidly frozen. The cold was indeed excessive ; and what
with snow, squalls, and mist, we did not make much progress.
The water had risen considerably, and the id and sand cliffs
were worn into innumerable ravines from the cc islam draiuago of
the upper lands. It occupied the better part of a day < get past
the cascades, and a most laborious and hazardous service i' was;
such assuredly would not have been attemf 'cd by any but persons
situated as we were. The boat barely withstood the shocks she
received, and was obliged to be repaired and caulked to keep hei
afloat. On Lake IJeechy we had abundance of snow, and wind
enough to detain us. At some distance from it we saw three hawks
attack a wounded goose and a gull, which they seemed pretty cer-
tain of killing.

On September 15th we took up our first cache, which had been
oaten into by the lemmings, and was partly damaged ; and late in
the evening we encamped at the upper end of .Musk Ox Rapid, but
saw no fresh traces of Indians. Only sixteen days earlier in the
previous season the surrounding hills were covered with deer care-
lessly feeding in all directions, and every thing had the tint of

I Ih il

230

MEETING WITH MR. M'LEOD.

summer on it: now, net a solitary deer was seen; the tea plant hud
evidently been Irozen, the dwarf birch was almost leafless, the
willow was bright yellow, and the whole country was clothed in a
livery of sober brown. Five musk-oxen were the only living
creatures about ; all others having deserted a place which the year
before was teeming with life.

A northerly breeze brought on a fog, in the midst of which we
crossed Musk-ox Lake, but were unable to see our way afterwards
until 11 A. M. when we found ourselves abreast of Icy River, always
covered with ice. Subsequently we got to the first portage on (he
Thlew-ee-choh, and on the following day (September 17th) met
our friend IMr. M'Leod, who with four men and two Indians had
already been several days at Sand Hill Bay. The pleasure ol
this meeting I shall not attempt to describe. He had been long
expecting us, and had passed, it seems, many anxious hours in
watching the distant objects in the direction of our route. After
our departure in July he had effected his return to the house with
the loss of two dogs only, and had gone from thence to Fort Resolu-
tion, to take possession of the forty bags of pemmican, as well as
the outfit from York Factory, which had been forwarded by the
Company. As he retraced his way, he had established two fish-
eries ;* and having deposited the goods safe in store at the For(,
and left a trustworthy man in care of them, he proceeded without
loss of time to fulfil yny last instructions by coming to the Thlew-
ee-choh. It was gratifying to hear that the men under his charge
had conducted themselves with propriety ; but the faint hope I had
entertained of poor Williamson's being alive was extinguished by
the intelligence that his body had been found and interred by Mr
M'Leod. The unhappy man was discovered lying on the ground,
with a few sticks near him, n< ! far from his ^:re. He had died, as
it seemed, from famine, aided, perhaps 'yy the despondency so ob-
servable in his conduct for some '*\/aths previous to his discharge.
The cause of this dejection we were unable to discover ; but so
melancholy was he, that in the autumn before the house was built,
and when we were all encamped around it, instead of associating
with his comrades, he built himself a hut with pine branches, in
which he ate his solitary meal ; and frequently in the stillne&s of the

One fishery was opposite Reindeer Island, and the other near Point Kriil'
11.') miles from Fort Rehance.

night, \A
^v'ouid be
lixed on
kind, and
|)eople, w
m deep
ijflen hap
irom the
Ills having
before the

The w(
(lians ever
more than
U'Leod de
wonderful
whole of t
Jeluged w
iliing seem
mild to the
what we k
and inlets (
the influent
with the lo

For two
sharp frost
solid enou^
meat that tl

Sept. 20i
had abated
his leisure,
which he tl
Lake Aylmi
got into Cli
depth of tv
ihe water f
stopped om
hitherto bet
we got to tl
Vellow Kni
gratulated i

^

INTKNSK COLD.

'j;ii

charge

1 had
led h\
by Mr

ound,
led, as
so ob-

large.
jut so

built,
ciatiiig
les, ill
ol the

Km I'

night, when most others were at rest, this extraordinary man
would be found sitting before his dwelling, with his eyes intently
lixed on the dying embers of his (ire. He did little duty of any
kind, and was treated with uniform kindness by the whole of the
people, who called him Poor David, seeming to regard him a.-, one
m deep distress of mind, whom they were bound to pity. As
often happens to those who go astray, he was but a short distance
iiom the fishery he had left, and to which, as was conjectured from
Ills having followed a track made by some of our men but two days
before the ice broke up, he was endeavouring to return.

The weather since our departure had been worse than the In-
dians ever remembered; and they had endured in consequence
more than usual misery and suffering in the privation of food. 3Ir.
U'Leod declared that I would not recognise them, unless they had
wonderfully recovered since they had fallen in with the deer. The
whole of the country north and east of Great Slave Lake had been
deluged with rain, and blighted by frost and snow. The same
liiing seems to have happened last wmter, which was unusually
mild to the southward, and even in the M'Kenzie, as compared with
what we found it; whence it may perhaps be inferred that the bays
and inlets of the sea-coast were superabundantly charged with ice,
the influence of which on the atmosphere would, of course, vary
with the locality.

For two days the weather was to stormy, with sleet, snow, and
sharp frost, that we could not move. The small lakes became
solid enough to bear, and the men were occupied in fetching some
meat that the Indians had killed.

Sept. 20lh was a bitter frosty morning, with snow ; but the wind
had abated, and we set forward, leaving Mr. M'Leod to follow at
his leisure, in order that he might hunt the shores of the lake,
which he thought could be done advantageously. Having crossed
Lake Aylmer without the occurrence of any thing remarkable, we
got into Clinton-Colden Lake, and found the iiills covered to the
depth of two inches with snow; while the cold was so sharp that
the water froze on the oars and the sides of the boat, and even
stopped one of the chronometers (No. 3093, French), which had
hitherto been most regular and steady in its rate. Towards evening
we got to the first rapid in the little river, and were visited by some
Vellow Knives, whom we expected to find thereabout. They con-
giatulated us on our safe return, which, considering the dreadfully

'\f

932

ENCAMP ON AIITILLERY LAKE.

bad season, had been scarcely expected. The elderly man who
was ill last spring at the Fort, and whose excessive stubbornness
had drawn upon him the name of Old Obstinate, was lying very ill
in his lodge, his troubles being further embittered by the recent loss
of one of his sons. The unfortunate custom of destroying all tlieir
clothes and properly, at whatever cost of time and labour ohlained
had been most rigidly observed by the whole family ; so that they
had no other covering at this bleak season (the thermometer bein"
24"), than a loose and unfashioned reindeer skin, thrown carelessly
and almost uselessly over the shoulders.

Mr. King, with much good feeling, went across the country during
the night, accompanied by the interpreter, to see the old man, and
administer to his relief. Some of the children also, who wpie
slightly affected with singular complaints, were attended to. Having
run the rapid, we called at the tents for several parcels of meat
which were ready prepared for us ; and I took that opportunity of
asking "Old Obstinate," who, with the exception of another a<^cd
man, was the only person conversant with the country northward,
whether, to his knowledge, there was any chance of getting either to
Cont-woy-to Lake or Bathurst's Inlet, from any part of the Thlew-
ee-choh ; but he declared himself unable to answer my question
farther than this, that there existed small lakes and innumerable
streams that ran towards the Thlew-ee-choh, all of which, how-
ever, were rapid, and too shoal for anything larger than one of their
liunting canoes, .\fter running another rapid, we collected more
meat at a second encampment, to which the occupants of the former
also, including the old man, had followed us; and as they all crowd-
ed into the tent, I showed them the survey of the river, and parti-
cularly pointed out those parts where the greatest number of animals
had been seen, recommending them, in the event of any future
failure, to go so far, which I assured them they might do with safely.
They answered, "it was good ;" but appeared too indifferent to
allow me to suppose that they had any idea, at that time at least, ol
taking advantage of it. They looked, however, with eager curiosity .
at the length and windings of the river, its nnmei'ous falls and ex-
tensive lakes; and their attention was riveted to the slightest word
relating to the I'^squiuiaux. A few presents from these last to ii:f
were scrutinized with the minutest attention, and they listened in
profound silence to my account of their peaceful conduct,

\( night we encamped at the firsl pines on (he wrsteiii sliore ol

Artillery

(log had \

with cold

was now

while the

ing and p

lire, joinii

Hereupon

the mouse

vered its s

in the san(

piece of

liot inattei

lulirm old

protected,

with exprei

The we£

being fair,

<ot to the

berries. .*

ID them, w

plenty of m(

The descen

running rap

much time

precaution

number aui

which I ha)

mountainou

riie steersn

«ent some (

more falls a

mountainous

with thin ic(

walking difl

was annovir

native, she ^

irtil she coi

^ cache was

ts was after

PKOGUESS ARRESTED BY THE FALLS.

233

ho re !>l

Artillery Lake. While we were w ith the Indians in the morning, our
(log had hunted and sadly pulled about a poor leminin}^, half torpid
with cold. The first gripe had blinded it, and the litde creature
was now running about on the ice along the border of the river;
while the dog, as if conscious that it could not escape, kept mouth-
ing and playing with it. The sick old Indian was seated by the
lire, joining in the half-smothered laugh which the sport created.
Hereupon 1 rose from my seat, and calling the dog away, caught
the mouse, warmed it by the lire, and when it had somewhat reco-
vered its strGiigth, laid it gently down at the entrance of a burrow
111 the sand-bank, into which it soon disappeared. 1 then threw in a
piece of fat after it for food. As I anticipated, the Indians were
not inattentive to what was passing; and when I pointed to the
lulirm old man near them, and said that the helpless should be
protected, they understood the meaning of what had been done, and
with expressions of satisfaction promised to remember it.

The weather still continued squally, with snow; but the breeze
being fair, the foresail was hoisted, and about noon of the 24th we
io[ to the Ah-hel-dessy, where we were greeted by the sight of
berries. Some Indians encamped in a bay made signs lor us to go
ID them, which being disregarded, they ran after us to say they had
plenty of meat : however they were directed to bring it to the Fort.
The descent of this small but abominable river was a succession of
running rapids, making portages, and lowering down cascades; and
much time was occupied in previous examination, without which
precaution we dared not stir a yard ; still the rapids increased in
number and difficulty, until at last a deep and perpendicular fall,
which I have named after Capt. Anderson, R, A.), rushing between
mountainous rocks into a vast chasm, stopped all further progress.
The steersmen, unwilling to be arrested even by such obstacles,
«ent some distance further, but soon returned with an account of
more falls and cascades. To convey the boat over so rugged and
mountainous a country, most of the declivities of which were coated
with thin ice, and the whole h'dden by snow, so as to render mere
walking difficult enough, was obviously impossible; and though it
was annoying to be forced to leave her, yet, as there was no alter-
native, she was safely hauled up among some willows and secured,
irlil she could be brought away on sledges in the following spring.
\ cache was also made of the sails, meat, ^c, a great part of which,
is was afterwards found, was destroyed bv the wolverecns, which,

m

ii n

s*

i'(

yjl

VISIT TO PARRY'S FALLS.

apparently out of mischief, cut the towing Hne into short lengths of
from one to two feet, tore the sails and covering into rags, and so
gnawed a bag that the two hundred balls it contained were strewed
about, and most of them lost. There is, in fact, no guarding against
these animals; their strength, as compared with their size, is enor-
mous, as may be understood from the fact that most of the stones
used in forming this cache were, singly, as much as two able men
could lift.

Each of the crew being laden with a piece weighing seventy-live
pounds, we began our march to the Fort across the mountains, now
entirely covered with snow four inches deep. The small lakes and
swamps were also frozen hard enough to bear a passage across.
We had not proceeded more than six or seven miles, when observ-
ing the spray rising from another fall, we were induced to visit it,
and were well consoled for having left the boat where she was.
From the only point at which the greater part of it was visible, we
could distinguish the river coming sharp round a rock, and falling
into an upper basin almost concealed by intervening rocks ; whence
it broke in one vast sheet into a chasm between four and five hun-
dred feet deep, yet in appearance so narrow that we fancied we
could almost step across it. Out of this the spray rose in misty co-
lumns several hundred feet above our heads; but as it was impos-
sible to see the main fall from the side on which we were, in the fol-
lowing spring I paid a second visit to it, approach '"'g from the western
bank. The road to it, which I then traversed in snow shoes, was fatigu-
ing in the extreme, and scarcely less dangerous; for, to say nothing
of the steep ascents, fissures in the rocks, and deep snow in the valleys,
we had sometimes to creep along the narrow shelves of precipices
slippery with the frozen mist that fell on them. But it was a sight
which well repaid any risk. My first impression was of a strong
resemblance to an iceberg in Smeerenberg Harbour, Spitzbergen.
The whole face of the rocks forming the chasm was entirely coated
with blue, green, and white ice, in thousands of pendent icicles :
and there were, moreover, caverns, fissures, and overhanging ledges
in all imaginable varieties of form, so curious and beautiful as
to surpass any thing of which I bad ever heard or read. The im-
mediate approaches were extremely hazardous, nor could we ob-
tain a perfect view of the lower fall, in consequence of the projec-
tion of the western cliffs. At the lowest position which we were
able to attain, we were still more than a hundred feet above the level

if (he bed
i-nough to
,vas found
The cjl(
.reen; and
jp in cloud
River, the I
an falls, —
ire not to
iiost impos
ippearance
owed upo
''airy, and
Septembe
la passing
iiised to se
rn by the
lid the dev£
1 (he forenc
early four i
jl for the nn
ur long and
las all; fori
Mastering hi
vas in little b
ing. Nothi
Qce for a d
ndians, wen
uen were set
The old In
er, happen*
lightest infoi
iid he know <
But," said 1
ne who has
This was a
lie least infoi
7 if some
jleechey and I
m latter, and

RETURN TO FORT RELIANCE.

'rij

nfllie bed of the river beneath; and this, instead of being narrow
enough to step across, as it had seemed from the opposite heights,
ivas found to be at least two hundred feet wide.

The cjlour of the water varied from a very light to a very dark
rreen; and the spray, which spread a dimness above, was thrown
jpin clouds of light gray. Niagara, Wilberforce's Falls in Hood's
River, the falls of Kakabikka near Lake Superior, the Swiss or Ita-
an falls, — although they may each "charm the eye with dread,"
ire not to be compared to this for splendour of eflfect. It was the
iiotit imposing spectacle I had ever witnessed ; and, as its berg-like
ippearance brought to mind associations of another scene, I be-
lowed upon it the name of our celebrated navigator. Sir Edward
Parry, and called it Parry's Falls.

September 27th. — The journey was resumed at an early hour.
•a passing my resting-place of the preceding spring, I was sur-
rised to see the havoc caused by the summer storms, which had up-

rn by the roots and laid prostrate the tallest pines of the forest;
ud the devastation was even greater as we neared the lake. Late
a (he forenoon we arrived at Fort Reliance, after an absence of
learly four months ; tired indeed, but well in health, and truly grate-
j| for the manifold mercies we had experienced in the course of
ur long and perilous journey. The house was standing, but that
las all; for it inclined fearfully to the west, and the mud used for
ilastering had been washed away by the rain. The observatory
vas in little better state ; and my canoe had been splintered by ligl t-
iiflg. Nothing, in short, could present a more cheerless appear-
Qce for a dwelling : but the goods, and some meat brought by
ndians, were dry in the store ; and, after three hours' rest, the
Ilea were set to work about the necessary reparations.

The old Indian who had been, when a young man, at Hood's lli-
er, happened to be at the Fort; but he could not aflford me the
lightest information about the country near liathurst's Inlet, nor
iid he know of any other way of getting there with small canoes.

But," said he, " why does the chief ask me, when he is the only
ne who has been there ?"

This was a grievous disappointment; fc, could I have obtained
lie least information to be depended upon, I had a strong wish to
ry if some communication might not be found between Lake
leechey and Back's River, by crossing the mountains in a line towards
latter, and taking with me materials to build canoes there. But.

Illli

8' t

VM

AKAircno.

to accomplish this, without any previous knowledge of the louie
would have occupied one or piobahly even two seasons more, and
would have required an entirely liesh set of men, and much addi-
tional expense. When v/e had reached IJathurst's Inlet, there would
have been the chance of finding it full of ice; and, even on the sup-
position of its being perfectly free, we could not, in any manner,*
reckon on more than three weeks for performing the distance be-'
tween this place and lloss Pillar or Point Uicbardson. To go by'
the Thiew-ee-choh again was out of the question; since, indepen-
dently of its dangers, it led to the wrong end for a favourable pas-
hage along the coast, the eastern portion being probably always more
or less hampered with icciirought by the current from the westward.
Upon these considerations, and influenced, moreover, by a ieeling-
that I was not authorized to ^.-well the expense of a service the ori-
ginal object of which had been happily anticipated by Providence,'
1 relinquished, though with sincere reluctance, the further prosecu-
tion of its secondary purpose as aliogether hopeless from this parti-
cular quarter.

It remained, therefore, only to make arrangements for passing'
the winter as comfortably as our means would permit; and, as tlieie
was not the remotest probability that there would be sullicient food
at the house for the consumption of the whole party, all except six
went with IMr. M'Leod to the lisheries, conveying, at the sametime^
to the Company's establishment at Fort Kesolulion, the various bales
of goods and other articles which we did not now require. A great
proportion of the pemmican also was deposited in store there, lor the
use of the expedition in its passage through the country.

The Indians brought us provision from time to time ; and our
friend Akailcho, with his followers, though not very successful, was
not wanting in his contributions. The name of this chief is so as-
sociated with Sir John Franklin's iirst expedition, that it may not be
uninteresting to say a few w ords about him here. He is no Ioniser
the same active and important person that he was in those days; for,
besides the infirmities that have crept upon him, he has grown pee-
vish and fickle. His once absolute authority is consequently re-
duced to a shadow; and, with the exception of his sons and his own
family, he can scarcely boast of a single subject or adherent in his
summer excursions to hunt. During winter, however, the clan still
keep together as formerly.

The Yellow Knives have drawn vengeance on themselves by their

vanton an(
Indians; ar
and womet
Jilt of mer
ihich the
milting to e
-after beli
and theii" y
>iiddcnly a
partly by t
KCtidcncy
1)1 the Yelh
ilieir youtl
and the w
.'rounds ab
iiills border
nines, follo'
>il)ly alFectc
iliey will pi
seventy fan
greater pro
yarded as 1
the commui
by a contagi
surely, this
as it is feare
Horn amon^
i Their spi
length in Fi
either forge
who conten
Great Spiri
was once s|
chief, on thi
a few moral
with the m(
(hided, he r
said, in a lo^
into my hea
15 true that

DECLINR OF THE VELLOW KNIVES.

337

ic roiilt%
loie, and
ch adili-
le would
llic sup-
manner,
ance be-*
To go l>y
indepen-f
able pas-
ays nu)re
testward.
a feeling-
the ori-
ovidenoe,'
prosecu-
liis paili-

I-
ir passing-^

I, as there

:icnt I'ood

except .six

aine tinie^

ious bales

A great

e, for llie

i

and our
ssjful, was

is so as-
lay not he
no longer
days; for,'
ow n pec-
jenlly re-
d his own
cnt in his
3 clan still

3s by theiP

anton and oppressive conduct towards their neighbours, the Slav«
Indians; an inolT'ensive race, whom they plundered of their peltries.
and women on the most trifling occasions of dispute, and too often
(lit of mere insolence, and the assertion of that superiority with
jliich the fears of tiie Slaves invested them. At last, after suh-
milting to every scourge that the ingenuity of barbarism could iulliol
-after beholding their wives and daughters torn from their lodges,
ind their young men branded with the badge of slavery, they were
iiuldenly animated with a spirit of revenge; and, in one season,
partly by treachery and partly by valour, annihilated the boasted
,ir.rcndency of their tyrants. I'lom this contest dates the downfall
1)1 the Yellow Knives : their well-known chiefs, and the flower of
ilioir youth — all who had strength oi* ability were massacred ;
and the wretched remnant were driven from the rich hunting
.rounds about the Yellow Knife Hiver to the comparatively barren
liills bordering on Great Slave Lake. Tliis revolution in their for-
iiincs, followed as it washy suspicion, fear, and discontent, has sen-
sibly afTected the race itself, and entailed a degeneracy from which
ihey will probably never recover. There cannot now be more than
seventy lamilies remaining; and these comprise few able men, the
greater proportion being aged, infirm, and decrepit, who are re-
wrded as burtliens upon the more active and working portion of
ilie community. To complete their calamities, they have been visiied
by a contagious disease, which is fatally prevalent : slowly, but
surely, this is consigning them to death, and, witliout such assistance
as it is feared cannot be rendered, must eventually sweep them away
irom among the tribes of the north.

Their speculations regarding the creation, \c. are dwelt on at
length in Franklin's Journey to the Polar Sea; but most of tiiem arc
either forgotten, or strangely distorted by tiie present generation,
who content themselves with a simple belief in the existence of One
Great Spirit, w ho rewards the good and punishes the evil-doer. I
was once speaking to the Camarade de Mandeville, a Chipewyan
chief, on this subject, and was endeavouring to impress on his mind
a few moral precepts for his future guidance, to which he listened
with the most profound gravity and attention. When I had con-
cluded, he raised his head a little, and, with eyes fixed on the floor,
said, in a low and solemn tone, " The chief's words have sunk deep
into my heart ; and I shall often think of them when 1 am alone. It
IS true that 1 am ignorant; but I never lie down at night in my

t

;

H

))3B

THE CHIPKWYANS.

i\

lodge without whispering to the (Jreat Spirit a prayer for for
giveness, if I have done anything wrong that day."

The Chipewyans, although they sometimes associalc witli the
YeMow Knives, never do so without caution and watchfulness.
Indeed, with the exception of seven or eight, who were in consiant
broils, they kept aloof, and came to the Fort at a time when lliov
knew the others were absent. These people are by no means
wanting in shrewdness, when occasion offers fo. the display of it.
Mr. IM'Leod was reproving one of them for the bickerings he had had
with the other Iribe; and, after expostulating with him on the dan-
ger of so bad an example, informed hini that they were all brothers,
created by the same Power, which made no distinction belw.ien
man and man, but regarded every one according to the quality of
his actions; that they should be kind, therefore, and charitable
towards each other, for that such conduct was pleasing to the Great
Spirit. " Ah!" said the Indian, with a heavy sigh, " that is good;
and if the chief wishes to teach us in that way, which is very good,
let him show that lie fears the Great Spirit, and give me a gun to
hunt with ; for my family are starving."

While Akaitcho and his followers were at the house, I repealed
to them what I had previously told the others respecting the river; and
the distance they might venture down it without falling in with the
Esquimaux, whose vociferations and threatening manners were ex
plained as being harmless, and their character described as peaceable
and unoffending after a first interview. But Akaitcho observed that
they were difficult people to talk with, and he did not think that
any of his tribe would go near them, though for his own part he
was sorry he had not accompanied me.

A few presents were given to them, and they went away to the
westward well contented. The Chipewyans also directed their
steps towards the Athabasca, and left us in our cold and solitary
dwelling to bear the brunt of another winter.

The instruments were placed in the observatory, the registers re-
commenced, and we found full employment in constructing the chart,
writingour journals, makingdrawings,&c.,&c. An hour every other
night was devoted to the instruction of the men; and divine service
was read every Sunday, which was always held sacred as a day of rest.

The tedium of the long evenings was most agrseably lightened
by the early arrival of our packet from England, containing not
only lettlers, but valuable periodicals, and a file of the " New York

} ^

Albion," I

vision for

they &'l a

commence

men who

having !ai

pioneer's c

not to go 1

iiiaintainei

produced |

iliree chee

a preparat

with cakes 1

and, to use

In fact, the

liappy in s(

veral statio

Our nex

iroop ofeig

i by keeping

come when

i|uently as ■

within sixty

ihe woods,

any one mo

spring gun,

only remain

of their dec(

ice a few hu

dogs, which

one occasioi

terrier, whic

an with oth

ihe larger of

finally seizec

mere accidei

lliat directior

was instantlj

general chas

'lotting until

VISIT FROM THE WOLVES.

tao

solitary

listers re-
le chart,

|ery other
service
fcyofrest.
lightened
Ining not
lew York

Albion," kindly sent by Governor Simpson. I had maue .some pro-
vision for a treat to the men on New Year's Day; and aocordingly
they &'l came with Mr. IM'Leod from the (ishcrics, and our evening
commenced with some sicight-of-ha id tricks with cards, H^ic. The
men who performed these were dressed up for the purpose; and
having huge beards and mustachoes of buflalo skin, as well as a
pioneer's cap of the same stuff, looked so droll, and in their anxiety
not to go wrong in their parts, in which they were not quite perfect,
maintained so serious a countenance, that their very appearance
produced pealsof laughter. His Majesty's health was then drank with
three cheers ; and the people were set down to a feast, consisting of
a preparation of meat and fat fried in baiter (i. c. flour and water),
with cakes sweetened with treacle ; after which they sang and danced,
and, to use their own expression, " had grog to their hearts' content."
la fact, they were all thoroughly happy, and I was scarcely less
iiappy in seeing them so. In a few days they returned to their se-
veral stations, and left us to our former solitude.

Our next visitors were of a more lean and hungry kind, being a
iroop of eighteen white wolves, which obliged us to secure the dogs
I by keeping them within the house during the night. They would
come when every thing was quiet, prowling about the door and fre-
quently as we went to observe the needle at midnight, they were
within sixty paces of us on the border of the lake, or sneaking about
the woods, but always retreated to a short distance when they saw
any one move. Two were caught in traps, and one was shot by a
>pring gun, but they were immediately devoured by the others, the
only remains found in the morning being the heads and legs. One
of their decoys was as follows : two or three would lie down on the
ice a few hundred yards in front of the house, in order to entice the
dogs, which sometimes ventured a little way towards them ; and on
one occasion when two of them were thus lying in wait, my little
lerrier, which had been bitten in the neck only two nights before,
ran with other five dogs to within about fifty paces of them, when
the larger of the two instantly singled it out, and after twice missing,
finally seized it by the neck, and carried it deliberately away. IJy
mere accident I happened to be looking through a pane of glass in
ihat direction just as the poor little thing was in its jaws. An alarm
was instantly given to the people, who hounded on the dogs, and a
general chase was given. The wolves contented themselves with

olting until we were gaining on them, when the one which had the

\

^ ' —

ilO

SET OUT ON jMV HETURN,

,y

litlle dog put it down, and seizing it afresh by the back, increased ,m
speed, and took to the woods. Here, after a long run, the inter-
preter and Taylor came up as it was taking its first bite, quite heed-
less of the dogs, which had not the courage to attack it. The iritpp-
preter's gun missed fire; but the wolf was frightened and ran away
leaving its victim still alive, though it died soon after from its wound^.
During the winter we caught five more, among which was the do-
Hnquent, and the rest fiiiding notliing to live upon went away. T!ie
weather was severe at first, but after January it became unusually
mild; and as it was necessa?y for me to return by way of ('anada,
the dogs and siedges were got ready early in Marcii. I then direclod
]>Ir. King to ,^ .^oceed at the proper season with the Europeans to
York Factory, when they would eribark in the Company's ship for
England; and taking leave of uiy companion, on the 21st of .Alatcli
I went I'jwaids the lishcries, where, having bade farewell to my es-
teemed frienv. iMr. M'LeoJ, I set out, and shortly reached Fort He- i
solution. Here having been kindly supplied with every thing ne-|;
cessary to forward me, on the 10th of April I arrived at FortCln-
pewyan, were I was also hospitably entertained by Mr. E. Smitli.a
chief-factor' in the Company's service.

I was informed that the winter had been unu^iially mild round
Chipewyan, as well as in the neighbourhood of Peace River, and
that very little snow had fallen at either place. The accounts of the
atnu)spheric legister kept on die banks of ihe T^'Kenzie River gave
a similar result; while at Fort Reliance the cold, though conside-
rably less severe tlian that of the preceding season, had still been so
keen that Ihe daily walk lor exercise on the wood track behind the
Fort could not be taken without the risk of being frost-bitten. Many
of Ihe people, indeed, suffered severely in this way while going to
and fioin our fishery, when, as we afterwards learned, the weather a
li'.tlo to the westwai'd was mild, and at times uimost warm; so that
it is evidp".:, the degree of cold at one place, furnishes no inference
which can be relied upon as to the temperature of another place even
moderately distant.

About the be^^iuning of May. the whole of the lake began to look
black and decayed ; pools of water w ere soon formed, and then a
channel, vhich gradually extended itself among the islands and alons'
th«; shoal parts near the shore. Ry the loth, swans, geese, and dii-
'"erent kinds of ducks appear-ed 'n large flocks, and were welcomed
scarcely more as haibingcis of spring than for the amusement ol

shooting
iabi«. ]
also nov
catkins o
of the hi,
the Fort
ihe sap 0
as a suKs
Crops
but these
pioximitj
exposure
and sprin
again sov
On the
ihe p(M c
and there!
A few da
('ompany'
-Mountaiuj
pai'tly on
I'ected by
rence evei
(0 winter.
Chilly :
these ble\
■ quantities,
favourabh
of the lake
although I
Hassel.
substitude
illness to 1
under wh
morning j
so free f 'o
'iH-e, ha»'in
pany's joa
accompian\
iiocfssary

I

%f%^^

m

ADV-NCE OF TIIK Sl'HINCi.

•ill

eased Its
le inlci-
ite heeil-
iie iiUer-
an av\a\,
wounds.
s the di!-
ay. T!ie
inusually

(.'anada,
I di reeled
peaiis to
1 ship foi"
oC March
lo my OS-
Fort He- '
ihina; ne-,
Fort Clii-

Sinith, a

ild round
liver, and
ints oflhe
liver gave

conside-
U been so
ehind (he
n. Many
; going to
weather a
n ; so that

inference
)1 ace even

m lo look
nd then a
and alonh'
, and dif-
vvelcnnipd
scinenl of

shooting them, and the giateful change which they aflbided to the
table. Martins and other smaH birds soon foUowed. Vegetation
also now made rapid progress; anemones came into ilower, the
catkins of tlie willows underwent hourly change, and the sroall leaf
of the birch expanded itself almost perceptibly. Many women of
the Fort were at this time also industriously employed in collecting
ihe sap of these useful trees, for the purpose of making a sirup used
as a substitute for sugar, of which they are extravagantly fond.

Crops of potatoes and barley are sometimes grown at Chipewyan ;
but these in the past season had failed, owing, as I imagine, to the
proximity of the places of culture to the lake, and their consequent
exposure to the chilling winds so prevalent here about tiie aulumn
and spring. Another trial, however, was now made, an'l -"" '
again sown, in the hope of a more fortunate result. .

On the 2^W of May, some boats laden with furs, &c. arrived fiotn
the po>' on Peace River, whence they also brought a cow and call,
and thereby supplied us with luxuries till then untasted at Chipewyan •
A low day after, two gentlemen made their appearance from the
Company''^ farthest establishments to the south-west of the Ilocky
Mountains, a long and tedious journey, which they had performed
partly on horseback and partly in canoes. They wer:. sensibly af-
fected by the change of temperature, and remarked that the diffe-
rence even within a lew days was like the transition fiom summei-
to winter.

Chilly N.E. winds had prevailed for iiearly a fortnight and when
these blew fresh, the ice from that quarter drilled down in large
quantities, and blocked up the channel, which at other times, under
favourable circumstances, was clear enough lo afford a passage out
of the lake. On sucli occasions I was naturally a».xious to get away,
although unwillin', to do so in the absence of my interpreter Thomas
Hassel. He liar! remained at Fort llesolution at his own request, as
substitude for the interpreter of that post, removed in consequence of
illness to Fcrt Reliance loi the benellt of the attention of !Mr. King,
under whose treatment, 1 may add, he speddily recovered. The
morning jf the 28th of iMay, however, was so iine, and the channel
so free f 'om obstruction, that I immediately prepared for my depar-
lure, ha»'ing arranged that llassel should follow in one of the ('om-
pany's joats, and take the place ol the person who was appointed to
accompany me. AccorAAigly, provided with every thing liial was
necessary for the journey, I took leave of my kind friend Mr. Smith,

J.

V

1 1 1'

■I

('

i^_

242

PILFERING HABITS OF THE INDIANS.

of whom it is but justice to say that he had neglected nothing which
might contribute in any degree to my comfort while under his hos-
pitable roof.

After several detentions, principally from gales of wind, I got to
Norway House, in Jack River, on the 2-lth of June, and found many
persons there suffering from inlluenza. Mr. Simpson had been
obliged to go to Canada ; but had directed every thing necessary to
be in readiness, that my progress might not be delayed. Having,
therefore, examined the accounts and charges for the goods received
by the expedition from the Company, and left some brief directions
for Mr. King, I set out very shortly for Montreal, with a crew of
Iroquois and Canadians substituted for my own men, who, at their
own request, were now discharged from the service. I next crossed
Lake Winnipeg, and arrived at Fort Alexander, where we provided
ourselves with a stronger canoe, better adapted for ascending the
river.

As we approached Rainy Lake, numerous deserted huts of the
Sauteaux Indians were seen on each side of the river, generally \
near rapids, where they spear the sturgeon as it struggles to ascend
the current. The arrival of these fish is their season of feasting ;
for the large animals being nearly extinct, they often experience
great difficulty in procuring food enough for subsistence ; and, indeed,
were it not for the wild rice, which happily grows spontaneously
round the lake, and which they have prudence enough to gather
up for winter consumption, their condition would be most deplo-
rable. In proof of the wretchedness to which they are reduced,
it is only necessary to look at the many young trees which have
been stripped of Hieir bark to afford them sustenance. Still these
people are, or rather, when we saw tliem, were more than com-
monly robust, find had an air and carriage greatly superior iv. ''"
more peaceable tribes of the north. The alciost constant state oi
warfare existing. between them and the Sieux Indians makes them
daring, and gives them a peculiar strut, assumed, probably, for (he
purpose of intimidating their adversaries. On one occasion, as we
wore crossing a portage close to the American lines, some of these
Indians came to us with a few fish, ostensibly foj* the purpose of
exchanging them for tobacco with the voifai/oiirs, but in reality to
pilfer anything they could conveniently carry away. However, they
were narrowly watched ; and nothing waslliissed until at the moment
of starling, when one of our Iroquois, leaping on shore, went di-

rectly up
pushed hi
dexterousl
so annoye
he began
band in t<

The riv
four of th
attempting
dered. A
track by
pine-tree,
grasping o
a wasp's n
and fierce
low tumbl
vociferatin
the same ti

At Saull
met with
Major Cod
the extraoi
eleven gum
lication of]
M'Murray,
that district
of two yea
fewer than
attended, i\
the governi
for the use
was in con
modation oi
ed in agrici
decided inci
to his own
members ol
northern si
Michipicoto!
iiansjation i

:1

I.'fl ^

MIS810NAIIY AT SAILT Ste. MAIUE.

■i-i'A

rectly up to an elderly Sauteaux, who was quietly sealed on a rock,
pushed him aside, and discovered his hat, which the old fellow had
dexterously contrived to secrete under his dress. This detection
?ot to so annoyed him, that when the canoe was pushed off from the land

many he began pelting us with stones, but desisted on my holding up my

hand in token of disapprobation.

The river Kanunistiquoya was found so shallow that three or
four of the crew were obliged to walk along the banks; and in
attempting to make a short cut through the woods they got bewil-
dered. After endeavouring for a short time in vain to recover the
track by which they had entered, one of the number climbed a
pine-tree, in the hope of descrying the river; but unfortunately, in
grasping one of the topmost branches, he unconsciously disturbed
a wasp's nest, suspended just above his head; and so instantaneous
and fierce was the attack upon his face and eyes, that the poor fel-
low tumbled, rather than came down, covered with stings, and
vociferating loudly for assistance. The report of a gun fired about
ihe same time, enabled the stragglers to rejoin the canoe.

At Sault Sie. Marie, which I reached about the end of July, [
met with a most hospitable, and, indeed, flattering reception.
Major Codd, the commandant of the American garrison, paid me
the extraordinary compliment of receiving me with a salute of
eleven guns. In the evening of the same day, I had also the grati-
ficalion of passing a few hours at the mission-house of the Rev. W.
M'Murray, whose pious endeavours to reclaim the poor Indians in
that district are deserving of the highest praise. In the short space
of two years, this exemplary man has received into his fold no
fewer than two hundred converts ; and has established a school,
attended, not unfrequently, by fifty scholars. By the liberality of
the government, a school-house was then in the course of erection
for the use of the mission ; and the appointment of a schoolmaster
was in contemplation. Houses were also building for the accom-
modation of at least twenty Indian families, who were to be instruct-
ed in agriculture, for which they were said to have manifested a
decided inclination. Nor has Mr. M'Murray confined his exertions
to his ovi'n immediate neighbourhood, some of the more zealous
members of his congregation having been despatched along tho
northern shores of Lake Superior to visit their brethren about
Miehipicoton, who were anxiously seeking for instruction. A
naiislalion into Chippewa of the (^atechism and part of the common

i.i •

i: 1

! ■< iW

i H ^

im

,1 r;V *'

■liiHI

2U

UETURN TO ENGLAND.

I

prayer of the church, executed by Mr. M'Murray, and printed by
direction of the committee of Toronto, has been supplied for the use
of the scholars and the mission generally ; but the finances of (he
society are unequal to the excellent work they have in hand even at
Sault Ste. Marie alone. " Incalculable good," says the worthy
missionary, •' might be done in these northern regions, were the
attention of the Christian world once engaged in behalf of the be-
nighted inhabitants. There is work, I might safely say, for a
hundred missionaries." Could not some means be adopted for
aiding, by subscription or otherwise, the benevolent views of this
zealous friend of the human race ? I have spent many years of my
life among Indians, and may be excused for feeling a more than
common interest for their welfare. Nor, in dismissing this subject,
can I forbear from quoting a part of the fourth annual report of the
society, &c. at Toronto, for the year ending October, 1834 : — " Ft
is by no means a circumstance of the least interest connected with
the mission at the Sault Ste. Marie that it promises, at some future
period, to be <he centre from which the light of Divine truth will
radiate to all the heathen tribes of that remote region ; to a portion
of whom native speakers, proceeding from the mission at the Sault,
have already carried such a knowledge of Christianity — by no
means inconsiderable — as they have themselves acquired under its
instruction."

Returning exactly by the same route, in pieference to the more
circuitous one by tlio American steam-boat, i arrived on the Clh ol
August at La Chine, having since I quitted it travelled over a
distance of seven thousand five hundred miles, including twelve
hundred of discovery.

Both at Montreal, and in my passage through the United States, I
experienced every where the same kind attentions. My baggage
was not inspected by the officers of the customs ; and every thing
was done or offered which could minister to my convenience.

At New York I embarked, on the 1 7th of August, on hoard tlip
packet ship North America, and arrived at Liverpool on the 8th ol
September, after an absence of two years and nearly seven months
Mr. King, with eight of the men, reached England in the Hudson's
Hay Company's ship in October. Much fatigue had been undergone
in transporting the stores of the expedition over the ice to Fort He-
solution ; and it was as gratifying to me to learn, as it was creditable
to him to have lo report, (hat the long and tedious journey from

Slave Lak
calamity.

On my i
and drawii
cretary of
partment, a
Auckland a
with an au(
(0 manifest
my good fo
humble eff(
geographici

RETURN TO ENGLAND

845

Slave Lake tu York Factory had been unattended by a iiingle
calamity.

On my arrival in London, I bad the honour of laying my chart
and drawings before the Right Hon. Lord Glenelg, Principal Se-
cretary of State for the Colonies, — under the orders of which de-
partment, as already stated,! had proceeded, — and also before Lord
Auckland and the board of Admiralty. I was soon after honoured
with an audience by His Majesty ; who was condescending enough
10 manifest a gracious interest in the discoveries which it had been
my good fortune to make, and to express his approbation of my
humble efforts, first in the cause of humanity, and next in that of
geographical and scientific research.

v'i '•

; Kt

APPENDIX.

The names of the distinguished persons allixed to the following papers on natural
history are of theinaclves sulliuient to coiniiiaud attention to their productions; hut
1 feel called on again to state that the merit of making the collection of which tlicy
give an account is entirely due to Mr. King, who, I am convinced, had our nipaiis
and opportunities of conveyance been more favourable, would have still added to
the number of specimens brought home. We were without the kind ol slmi
calculated for Killing small birds, inconvenienced by want of room in our hin^jn
boat, and assailed by almost constant rain, while the barren grounds .(lliinicd
little beyond moss for fuel. In such circumstances, much credit is due to liini lor
the zeal and perseverance which he evinced, amid dilticulties of so varied a na-
ture.— (i. B.

No. I.

ZOOLOGICAL REMARKS,

By John Richakdson, M. 1). F. R. S. &c.

Few people in this country have a correct notion of the magnitude of that pan
of Ameri(-a which lies to the north of the ^v^,{t Canada lakes ; and it may not there-
fore be out of place to inform the reader, that the area of the territory in ques-
tion is about equal to the portion of the old continent which would be cut olT to
the northward by an imaginary line running from the Bay of Biscay, through llu
Gulf of Lyons, the Adriatic and Black Seas, to the Caspian and fiake Aral, and
from thence north-oastwardly to the sea of Ochotsk, thus comprising; twenty-seven
degrees of latitude, and in the sixtieth parallel upwards of one huedrcd degrees of
longitude : or, Cai)tain Back's journey from New York to the Gulf of Boothia may
be likened to that of a traveller who should embark in a canoe at Naples, and pro-
ceed up or down various rivers, and across portages, until he reach Arkhangel am!
ihe entrance of the White Sea. In a country embracing so many parallels of lati-
tude, and presenting a surface so greatly varied by hill and dale, woods and
prairies, we may naturally expect a considerable variety in its ferine inhabitants
vnd those which exist in America are highly interesting to the zoologist, as being
jess perfectly known th?.:i their European representatives, — whi^", at the same
time, their range having been as yet scarcely restricted, or their habits influenced,
])y man, they olTer instructive studies to the naturalist. It is in North America
■ilone that opportunities occur for observing the curious operations of the beaver,
which are guided by an instinct almost surpassing human reason : there too we
may watch the regular migrations of the bison ant' reindeer to their wonted feed-
ing-places or remote retreats where they bring forth their young; and note the
fiiriodical flights of birds proceeding in immense Hocks from warmer and more

populous

who sha

and of

who may

which en

Thedii

is not th<

yet a few

mate of

America.

over an

with snov

long <lur

matured

moist, hav

of what hi

on the wci

Shetland f

are green

but this I

the cereali;

duration o

of the wint

Tranee, th

southward

olive, maiz(

eastward,—

In North

the increasf

in the interi

— the incre

Lake Iluroi

Venice, the

of the three

experienced

city of Yorl

rises to the

Hru.ssels or

litre is bclo\

which has a

when the m

which attaii

of vegetatioi

berland Hoi

ordy two : ;

Island, on t

month in tl;

the summer

is experienc

The phen

Bay, instea(

accounted f(

APPKNDIX.

247

ques-
oir Ui
:h (Ik

:iiul
■scvi'ii
let's ol'
|i iii.iy

pro-
il niKi

lali-

niid

it.llllr.

|l)('in^
sanip
|noc(l,
icrica
(avpr,
we
fecd-
thr
inore

populous climes to the secluded shores of the Arctic Sea. The ichthyologist too,
who shall devote his time to the iiivesti^jalioii of the fresh waters of that country,
and of its several boundiiif; seas, will reap a rich harvest ; and the entomologist
who may travel thither, will he delighted with the unexpected hurst of insect life
wliich enlivens the air and fills the waters as soon as winter has passed away.

The distribution of animals has a close connection with climate ; and though this
is not the place to enter into a lengthened discussion on that important subject,
yet a few remarks may be appropriately made on the difPereuce between the cli-
mate of Europe, and especially of its sea-coasts, and that of the interior of North
America. In the former, the winter is tempered by the warm breezes which sweep
over an open se • mjI, except in very high latitudes, the ground is seldom covered
with snow fc .^lh of time, or vegetation completely arrest<'d by frosts of

long duration, . Mie grass seeds (not objects of culture! that have been

matured in the summ^ *all to the ground in the autumn, and, if the season be
moist, have already germinated before the conclusion of winter. The perfection
of what has been termed by way of distinction a mnrilime. ell mate may be observed
on the west of Ireland, or, still more evidently, in the islets or " holmes" of the
Shetland and Orkneys, which, lying between the sixtieth and sixty-first parallels,
are green during the whole winter, affording pasture to numerous ilncks of sheep :
l)ut this mild winter is coupled v;ith a less genial summer. The growth of
the cerealia and of the most useful vegetables depends chiefly on the intensity and
duration of the summer heats, and is comparatively little influenced by the severity
of the winter cold, or thelowness of the mean temperature of the year. Thus, in
I'ranee, though the isothermal lines, or lines ol equal annual heat, bend to the
southward as they recede from the coast, the bouiuling lines of culture of the
olive, maize, and vine, have a contrary direction—that is, incline to the north-
eastward,— which is attributed to the low summer temperalure along the coast.

In North America, the decrement of the mean annual temperature incident to
the increase of latitude is much greater than in Europe ; and there is also, especially
in the interior, a nuich wider d fference between the summer heat and winter cold,
— the increase of vernal heat being sudden and great. On the north shore of
Lake Huron, which is nearly in the same parallel with the bottom of the Gulf of
Venice, the snow covers the ground for nearly half the year; though the mean heat
of the three summer mouths, amounting to 70" of Fahrenheit's scale, equals that
experienced at Bourdeaux. Cumberland House, having the same latitude with the
city of York in England, stands on the isothcrm.il line of 32', which in Europe
rises to the North Cape in latitude 71" ; but its summer heat exceeds that of
Brussels or Paris. Humboldt informs us that, in countries whose mean tempera-
ture is below 03", spring, or the renewal of vegetation, takes place in that month
which has a mean heat of 33" or 31°, and deciduous trees push out their leaves
when the mean reaches to 52"; thus, the sum of the temperatures of the months
which attain the latter heat furnishes a measure of the strength and continuance
of vegetation. Lake Huron, in latitude 41*, enjoys five of these mouths; Cum-
berland House, three; and Bear Lake and Fort Enterprise, both in latitude (i'l-i"
oidy two : all these places have an interior or continental climate. At \Mnter
Island, on the eastern coast, in latitude 61 j^, and at Igloolik, in latitude (iO^", no
month in the year attains a mean heat of 52'; and at Churchill, in latitude oO*.
the summer heat does not exceed that of Bear Lake, being !()• less than that which
is experienced in the same parallel in the interior of the conti'ient.

The phenomenon of the isothermal lines sinking on the western coast of Hudson's
Hay, instead of rising as they do on the eastern coast of Europe, has been variously
accounted for. Dr. Brevv-ster assumes Iwo northern poles of cold, and places one

:■

t ■ f',.1

'! i!)

^

■h

%

I I'h f

\

%-V^

Ui*J f''

• I-

i

ihd

APPENDIX.

of them on (he inei-idiaii of 'J-i^, which is the longitude of Churchill ; but we think
that the peculiarities ol' the climate of this part of the country may be greatly owing
to the configuration of the land. The coast to the northward is deeply indented
by gulfs and sounds, and fringed by numerous islands, among which the drift ice is
detained until late in the season. This melting depresses the summer h^al; while
the ice-iDvered sea has little or no effect in tempering the cold during the winter.
The suiisoil north of latitude 56" is perpetually frozen, the thaw on the coast not
penetrati:!;.; above three feet, and at Bear Lake, in latitude 64"", not more than
twenty iin lies. The frozen substratum does not of itself destroy vegetation ; for
forests iloiirish on the surface at a distance from the coast, and the brief though
warm summer gives birth to a handsome flora, matures several pleasant fruits,
and prc'hiics many «;..rices and grasses.

The direction of the northern termination of the woods shows the gradual
ascent of the isothocral lines (or lines of equal summer heat) as they recede from
Hudson's 15ay. On the coast near Churchill the woods cease about the 60th pa-
rallel ; but at the distance of fifty or sixty miles from the sea, their boundary rises
rapidly to the northward, and then takes a nearly straight W. N. W. course until
it reaches Groat Bear Lake, in latitude 65*. The most northerly tree is the
white spruce ; but the canoe birch, which is deciduous, terminates only thirty or
forty miles to the southward of it ; and wc thus possess the means of ascertaining;
how far to the north a summer temperature of 52" extends. But, in fixing this
limit, some allowance must be made for altitude, and the nature of the soil. Thus,
on the low alluvial delta of the Mackenzie the spruce lir reaches the latitude oi
t)H" ; and the l)anks of that river generally are better wooded than the more elevated
rocky tracts which lie to the eastward.

The permanence of the frosts when once they set in is a feature of the climate
of the fur countries which requires to be noticed here, as it influences the distri-
bution of graminivorous and herbivorous animals, * by modifying their supply of
food. The carices and grasses have scarcely matured their seeds before they are
frozen up for the season while their leaves are still full of sap; thus they continue
to afford good pasturage until the spring, and they drop their seeds only when the
melting snow has prepared the ground for their reception. The sparrows and
buntings profit by this vernal harvest. In like manner the Vaccines, Arbuti, and
several other berry -bearing slu'ubs, retain their fruits until the same period, when
they yield food to the bears, just awoke from their wiuter sleep, and to large flocks
of geese winging their way to their breeding places.

The northern boundary of the woods is the limit of the range of the black bear,
the American fox, the pine-martin, the fisher, the lynx, the beaver, several marmots,
the American hare, the moose deer, the Canada partridge, the woodpeckers, &c.
The " barren grounds" to the northward of the woods have also their appropriau
inhabitants, such as the brown bear, the arctic fox. Parry's marmot, the polar hare,
and the musk ox. The small variety of the reindeer winters within the verge of
tiie wooded country, but travels to the northward in the summer, and drops its
youn<>- on the sea-coast. The wolf and the wolverene inhabit woods and barren
grounds indifferently, and the polar bear seldom travels inland. The " prairies,"
(»!■ woodless plains, which skirt the llocky Mountains from the 55th parallel down
to the Mississippi, and enjoy milder winters than the more easterly districts, have
another set of inhal)itants, of which the bison is the most important. This animal
feeds in countless herds on the grass of the prairies, and furnishes food (o a much

I

* Bi'a.sls anil birds of prey ilepciiJiug on these iribi:s for subsistence arc also thus in-
fluenced ill tiifirdistribulioa by the powurs of vi'(i^ta'«o"-

APPENDIX.

2A'J

greater Indian popiiliition tbnii the wuoded diistrictx can Hupport. The bison exist »
also in the woods up to the O'id parallel, tiiough in much smaller numbers, but it
does not travel to the eastward ol' the lU5tli meridian; and a few stragglers only
have round their way across the mountains to the (erlile and comparatively tem-
perate country which skirts the Pacific. The prairie wolf, the kit-fox, and various
marmots are peculiar to the plains ; and the ferocious and powerful grisly bear,
though most abundant on the alpine declivities, also ranges for some distance over
the flat country to the eastward.

The north-west coast which we have just alluded to has a climate more like that
of the east coast of Europe in its temperature than any other part of North Ame-
rica : but; it is very moist, owing to the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains. The
summits of this range are inhabited by a wool-bearing goat named Capt.^ Ameri-
cana, and the declivities by the Ovis montnna, or mountain sheep. The country
nearer the Pacific coast is frequented by a fox more closely resembling the Eu-
ropean one than the CnniH fulvim of the eastern territory does. The moose-deer,
reindeer, wapiti, with several others of the genus, known to the traders under the
name of mule-deer, jumping deer or cabree, fallow-deer or chevreuil, and the;
prong-horned antelope, also inhabit New Caledonia and the banks of the Co
liiinl>ia.

The following is a list of the specimens procured by l.ic expedition, with a re-
lerence to the pages of the Fauna-Borcali Americana, where they are scientifically
described : —

elevated

Vesperlilio subulatus, F. B. A. 1.

page 3.

Mu.stela (Putorius) errainea ....

46.

! climate

vison ......

4H.

e distri-

Lutra Canadensis ......

57.

>upply of

Lupus occidentalis, griseus. ....

«li.

they are

Canis familiaris. Canadensis

80.

continue

Castor Americanus ......

105.

ivhen the

Fiber zii)ethicus

115.

ows and

Arvicola Pennsylvanicus

121.

)uti, and

Georycluis trnnucronatus. ■ . . .

130.

)d, when

Mus leiicopus

142.

ge flocks

Spermophilus Parryi

15S.

\(|uila (llaliirctus) leucocephala, F. B. A. 2

15.

ack bear,

•""alco lanarius.

marmots,

Islandicus ......

27.

cers, &c.

sjiarvorius .....

:u.

)ropriaie

coluniliarius ......

35.

)lar hare,

Bnteo iiorealis

50.

verge of

(Circus) cyaneus ....

55

drops its

Strix olus. .......

72.

d barren

brachyota. ......

75.

jirairics,''

cinerea .......

77.

lei down

Strix Viri^iiiiana, F. B A. 'i. .

81.

ets, have

nyetca

S8.

is animal

fuMcrca ......

02.

) a iuucli

ryranruila |iiisill;i ......

111.

-Meriil.i mii;ra(()ri;t ......

170

) tlius in

Wihoiiii ....

IH-i.

1

Krvthni.a Sialia) .iiclica

209.

250

APPENDIX.

Sylvicola (.Vermivora) percjjrii

la . . . m.

Lake Wimpcj;

Hetophaga ruticilla.

223.

Lake VNinipe^.

Aiithus aquations .

231.

Fort Reliamt;.

Vireo olivaceus

233.

River Winipcg

Boiiibycilla garrula .

237.

Fort lU'liaiuie.

Aluiida coruuta.

245.

Fort Reliance.

Plectrophaiies nivalis.

246.

Embcriza Canadensis.

252.

Fort Reliance.

Fringilla leui ophrys.

255.

Pennsylvanica

256.

River Winipeg.

Pyrrhula (Corythus) enucleato

I- . . . . 262.

Loxia leucoptera

203.

Linaria minor.

267.

Fort Reliance.

Coccothraustes (Guiraca) Ludc

iviciana . . 271.

Lake Winipeg.

Agelaius plia?niccus.

280.

Lake Winipeg.

xanthocephalus

281.

Qniscaliis versicolor.

285.

Lake Winipeg.

Scolccophagus ferrngineus

286.

Fort Reliance.

Garrulus Canadensis.

2'.)0.

Picus pubescens

307.

varius .

309.

tridactylus .

311.

arcticus.

313.

Colaptes auratus

314.

Fort Reliaiicc

Hirundo lunifrons .

331.

Capninulgus (Chordeiles) Vir|
AIcctR s^yon.
Tetrao Canadensis .

;inianus, F. U. A 2. . 237.

Lake Winipey;.

339.

346.

Tetrao (Lagopus) saliceti.

351.

rupestrus, Sadi

NE. .... 356.

(Centrocerous) phasian

ellus .... 361.

Columba (Ectopistes) migrator

ia . . . . 363.

Lake Winipeg

Charadrius vociferus

368.

pluvialis.

369.

melodus.

River Winipeg

Slrepsilas interpres.

371.

Grus Americana

372.

Canadensis .

373.

Recurvirostra Americana.

375.

Tringa Douglassii .

379.

alpina .

384.

Tolanus llavipes

390.

Kalhis Carolinus .

. ^ . 403.

4, '

Phalaropus Wilsonii

. '<. 405.

fulicarius

: 407.

f ulica Americana .

404.

Podiceps cornutus .

411.

Larus argentatbides

-^ 417.

Lestris pomarina .
Anas clypeata.

acnta .

. 441.

boscha? .

... 442.

I

tnas crec
ijiireca Ai
lideniia p
Fuliguta w
n
ri
Ijiigula al
v
tnseralhii
Iiypr
Can
olymbus
Lucioperca
lalmo nami
jidus (Lot
oregoiius

t
liodon chrj

These spe
lie expediti
iiid labour t
Appendix to
iierely say a
Hiiiter, eithe
lie specimer
oints of the

Sa

The specin
uuch, that w
ii\ ; and the
Hie, as the I

\

Total iengtl

Length of h

h

Height of c;
Breadth of (
Height of tr
Spread of \\
Length of tl

The discrep
^("ly of the 8p(

APl'ENUIX.

(nna crecca .
\|areca Americana .
ilidciuia perspicillata
Fuligula marila

rufitorqucs.
rubida
I'langula albcola, P. B. A

vulgaris .
^nser alhirroii»

liyperlioreus.
Canadensis .
'olymbus septentrionalis
Lucioperca Americana, F
salino namaycush .
i.idus (Lota) raaculosus
oregonus albiis

tullibec .
liodoii chryHopsifl .

2. .

B. A. ;}.

li.M

443.
445.
418.
453.
454.
455.
458.
450.
466.
467.
468.
476.
10.
179.
'248.
311.
300.
311.

i illl ^U

Tbese specimens were all carefully prepared by Mr. Richard K'ln^, surgeon to
lie expedition, who deserves the thanks of zoologists for devoting so much time
iiul labour to the promotion of the science. As it would exceed the limits of an
Appendix to give a full account, or even a cursory notice, of each species, we shall
iieiely say a few words rcs])ecting those which arc objects of chase to the Indian
milter, either for food or for the sake of their fur, adding u few brief remarks on
lie specimens of the other species when they serve for the elucidation ol doubtful

oints of their history.

'inipeg

k

I

I

Say's Bat. Vespertilio subiilafus. (Sav./ K. B. A. 1. p. 3.

The specimen resembles the one described in the Fauna-Boreali Americana so
auch, that we cannot but consider it as the same species, though it has a shorter
ill ; and the comparative dimensions of some of the other members also differ a
ittle, as the following Table shows : —

Total length

Length of head and body

— — head

tail

Height of ear

Breadth of ditto

Height of tragus . •.

Spread of wings "...

Length of thumb

Is

Kii

ig's

specimen^

lorh

lin

3

h;

•2

0

s

1

0

7

0
0

4

1

8

(i

0

H

Richard-
son's.

3 4
1 10
0 0

1

0
0

0 4 {
.10 0
0 2j

Say's.

lorh. 111.
2 li

1 -2

A ■

U

riie discrepancies in the dimensions may be partly reconciled by supposing the
t J^fily of the specimen taken on Captain Back's expedition to have been rather over-

•':r?

AF'PBNDIX.

HlulFod ; while the one got by Sir J . Franklin's parly may have been allowed to ohrink
loo much. Mr. Say'H example mimt have been a yoiing individual, if the identity
of the spe.:ics \u' granted. Say'H bat, which \h closely allied to the V. piiustri-lli,-,
and emnnjinntus of Kiiropc, has an exteiiHive range, having been found on the
ArkanHas, at Great Slave Lake, and in the intermediate diHtrict.

lilted by III
ittack. 'I
Ursiis A I
of itH claws
t iiicreaseN

American Black Beau. Ursus Americanus. (Pallas.) F. B. A. 1. p. 14

This bear, which is the only one of the genus that produces a valuable fur mav
be readily known by a pale yellowish-brown patch on each side of its lone an |
slightly arched nose. It feeds chiefly on fruit and other vegetable matters- and is
by no means a ferocious animal, seldom injuring man except in self-defence and
shunning the combat whenever a way of retreat is open to it. It climbs trees or
scales precipices with great facility ; and, being very wary, is not easily killed in
the summer. But extreme caution sometimes proves the cause of its destruction ■
(or on hearing a nt ise or apprehending danger, it stands upon its hind legs every
now and then to look over the bushes, and, by thus showing its position, eiiabli's
the skilful hunter to make his approach. The bear is, however, much more fre-
quently taken in its winter retreat ; and being always fat when hybematinc with
the fur in prime order, it is a valuable prize to the Indian, who, from long prac-
tice, acquires an extraordinary skill in discovering its den, by indications that would
attract no notice from the eye of an inexperienced person. But though the native
hunter never neglects an opportunity of killing a bear, he deems it an honour to
be related to an animal possessing so much strength and sagacity ; and before he
proceeds to skin and cut up the carcass, he shows it the utmost respect, and beus
a thousand pardons for the liberty he is about to take with his grandmother.
The fat of the bear resembles hog's lard, and is generally considered as a delicacy
by the Indians ; but its strong flavour is disagreeable to Europeans.

Barren-ground Bear. Ursus Arctosf V. B. A. 1. \).2l.

This bear, which closely resembles the brown bear of Europe, and is probably
the same species, f^equents the barren lands lying to the north of the wooded
country; and in the summer time haunts the shores of the Arctic sea. It feeds
upon roots and berries, and also upon such animals as it can surprise, or that it
tinds dead — being much more carnivorous than the preceding species. One that
was killed by Sir John Franklin's |)arty in Bathurst's Inlet had a seal, a marn^ot,
and many roots in its stomach. This bear attains a greater <!ize than the blacic'
bear, and is dreaded by the Indians on account of its strength and courage. It is
said that it will attack man when impelled by hunger, but all that we saw fled from
us as fast as they could. i

I

The Pola

M'the dilfei

;hf highest

iiid Parry's

111(1 other I'l

itas establis

liiirtin's Bay

ititiidc m\

iiii'oiigh Bal

iiioMths. In

1 whale bcir

foxes, anil si

«lio were n

bears and sh

Tii

The quick!
remains havi
limning anim
disliked by t
ilipir baits, ai

riir. Ermine,

This activ(
.;iiawers, iiun
icrs the dwei!
over the boan
of the ermine

The Mink.

Grisly Bear. Ursus fer ox. ( Lewis and Clark. ) F. B. A. 1. p. 24.

This is a still more carnivorous animal than either of the preceding speciigi
though not so completely so as the Polar bey. It is the most powerful of th/
genus, being able to master the American bison, which forms its habitual prey. The
Indian hunter will rarely venture to attack the grisly bear, unless he is very ad-
vantageously posted ; for it does not hesitate to assail a man who, intruding imim-
tiously upon its liaunts, comes upon it unexpectedly ; and has been known to carry
oil" a voyagei' from among his companions as they were seated at supper : yet it
will usually make off when it scents the hunter from a distance, unless it be stiimv*

The vison (
aid t'ives wel
ihe Civnadian
shorter, and
smaller amimal
1 1 molar tooth
; 'hose who pet

\i'|'i:m)i\.

.(

i!

J to shrink
^f identity
fi/'istri-lliin
ind on the

lated l>y huii(;rr or iniitcil l>y ih<' |iiTHni(c ol its in.ilf nr 301111^ lo (oiiinicnrc tha
ittai'k. Tht! pliyHiognoniy of the ^lisly lionr is vry lik<' tliat nC the lirowii hear
Ur-iiis Arrfos ), hut it may he readily kno\\n hy the dev»'h)|mi("iit and ciirvalure
,if its claws, whieh are blackish in the younj; animal, lint chanf;e to a dirty white an
it increases in age.

p. 14.

le fur, may
ts long and
ers ; and is
efence, and
hs trees or
ly killed in
cstruction ;
i legs every
on, enables
li more fre-
iiating, with
long prac-
s that would
h the native
I honour to
d before he
:ct, and begs
;randmothcr.
as a delicacy

is probably
the wooded
It feeds
or that itv
One that
a marmot,
an the blackf
urage. It is
jw fled from

p. 24.

ling specii'8,^
erful of th#'
al prey. The

is very iid«
udiiig iniau-
own to carry
pper : yet it

it be slinii\-

PoLAK Hkak. ll^rsvi maritimus. (Linn.) F. B. A. I. p. 30

The Polar bear passes llie greater part of its life at sea among ice, in the pursuit
of the diflerent species of seal. It is one of the (|ua<lrupeds which ascends into
(he highest latitudes, being an inhabitant of Spitzbergeii, Nova Zcmlil.i, (irccnbind.
lud Parry's Islan<ls. The gravid females liybernate untler the snow ; hut the males
mil other females travel over the ice in winter in quest of open water. This fact
las established beyond a doubt in 1820-7, when the Dundee whaler wintered in
liallln's Bay. This ship was beset in latitude 71* in September, and got tlear in
ititudc 62^' iu April: the pack of ice in which she was enclosed having drifted
iiii'ough Ballin's Ray, and obliquely across Davis' Strait, in the course of eight
iiiontlis. In the beginning of February, when the ship was in lalitudtMiH* 13' N.,
I whide being harpooned at the distance of sixty miles Ironi the laud, many bears,
lunes, and sharks came to feed on the erang, very much to the delight of the crew,
who were rejoiced to add to their scanty allowance of provisions the flesh of such
bears and sharks as they succeeded in killing. "

The Wolverene. GhIo iu.,viis. (Sabine.) F. R. A. 1. p. II

The quickehatch, or wolverene, is another inhabitant of the high latitudes — its
remains having been found in Parry's Islands, near the 7.ith parallel. It is a strong
limning animal, of which many marvellous stories have been told; and is greatly
lisliked by the martin-trappers, on account of the injury it does by carrying off
ihcir baits, and thus rendering fruitless the labour of many days.

TuE Ermine. Musfe/a (Puforitis) erminea. (Linn. Gmel ) F. R. .\. I. p. 17.

This active little animal feeds on the white-footed mouse and other smal'
;iiawers, Lunting, like the rest of the family, in the night, when it frequently en-
liTsthc dwelling of man in pursuit of prey. The noise that it makes in galloping
over the boarded floor, gives the impression of its being a much larger beast. Few
of the ermine skiKS of commerce come from Hudson's Bay.

: The Mink. Mustela (Putonus) vison. (Linn. Gmel.) F. B. A. 1. p. 48.

The vison or wint preys upon small fish, fresh-water muscles, etc., and swims
lid iMves well. La Hontan calls it an" amphibious weasel; and it is known to
ihe Canadian fur-hunters by the name of " foutercau." Its fur, though darker, is
shorter, and consequently of less value, than that of the pine-martin. It is a
smaller amimal than the latter, with a proportionably shorter and broader liead, and
araolar tooth fewer on each side. Easily tamed, it shows much altaihiueiit to
those who pet it.

* Voyage to Davis' Strait, by David Dnnraii. LoihIom, 1827.

'I t

■I ■ i I

2j/)

Al'l'ENDlX.

The Pine-martin. Miialela martes. (Linn.) l<". U. A. 1. ,.. 5|

Inhabits the wooded districts, :iiid preys upon hares, mice, and l)irds. When
surprised upon a tree, its gestures, the attitudes it .issumes, and the puirin" udise
it ui.ike's, are very 'ike tlioseofa rat under similar circumstances. !\Iartin fm' is
very line, and l»riiigs a liigh price, l)eing sold largely in England under the iiaiim of
'' sable ;" the real Russian sable rarely or never linding its way into our fur-siiops

TriE Pekan, or Fisheh. Musteln Canndnnsis. (Linn.) I", B. A. \. p. ,V2.

Notwitiistanding the name of fisher, this animal does not seek its prey in ilie
water; but entirely rest-mbles the pine-martin in its habits. Its greater size, the
colour and coarseness oC its I'lir, distinguish it (Vom the latter. The skins oC llie
pekan are called " woodshochs" at the lludsons Bay Comnany's sales,

TriE Skunk. Mep ids Americana. ( SAniRE.) F. B. A. 1. p. 55.

A full, bushy tail, long black hair, and a board white stripe along each side, give
the skunk a pleasing appearance ; but the odour o!" the fluid it discharges when jn
danger is so disgusting that few people can summon rcsolutim to approach it. The
early French settlers in Canada evinced their abhorrence of this otherwise harmlrfis •
animal, by terming it " Vfrifant du diabky Clothes tainted by the fluid it, secrple.;
are but imperfectly purified after they have been buried in the earth for many <lays. '
The skunk is said to hybernate under the snow. 1'.. runs slowly ; and, but for its
peculiar means of defence, would be easily <lestroyed by its numerous enemies.
D'jgs hunt it eagerly ; but when they are just on the point of seizing it, a siaj;kt
discharge of its nauseous liquor puts them to flight.

The Canada OxTEri. Lnfra Cnnndensis. ( Sabine.) F. B. A. 1. p. 5T.

The habits of the otter are the same in the New World as in the Old ; hut there
beiii'^ a ditlerence in the proportional length of their tails, and in some other rc-
spect.«. they are considered as distinct species. The fur of the Canada otter, whicli
is mu h more valuable than that of its liuropean rcprcsentat'.ve, resembles that of;
the beaver, and is applied to the same purposes. A singe skin is worth from
one to two guineas. The otter is found up to the CGth or (i7th parallel of latitude. .,

The Wolf. Lupus ocrideiilftl'o. ( Rich.) F. B. A. 1. p. 60.

AVolvcs inhabit the whole country north of Canada, being, as is natural, most
numerous in the districts which nourish the largest herds of the ruminat- _
jUg animals on which they prey. The countenance and general appearance of
the .\merican wolf diflers greatly from those of its European representative, and its
fur is very dissimilar ; hul it is a didicult quest ion to determine whether it lie a
distinct species, or merely a variety produced by climate and other local cause?.
The Indian dog differs also in the thickness of its furry coat, as well as in its
aspect, irmn the shephenrs dog, which is the analogous European race. Indeeil.
the wolves and the domestic dogs of the fur countries arc so like each other, lliat
it is not eas^ to distinguish them at a .small distance ; the want of strength and cou-
rage of the former being the principal diflerence. The oll'spring of the wolf ami
lii.lian dog arc prolilic, and are prized by the voyagers as beasts of draught, beiin;
^^Iroiiger than the n.dinary dog. {

The J

white ill
atrr). (!i|
orcasionl
one, fre(l
lias beenl
la Ira its). \

This f(|
very vali^
■,v(irth fr(
luxes arei
111 the colli
Jistricts ol
>iiiall bird!

The dii
o\ Asia,
lumbia.
■ alue.

TH!(

This pla;
woods, bei

0 ings fortl
p;.''ticular s
a coi.!>;dera'
unning aiu
10 white in
quality to t'l
dfe told by (

Coloured
in the inidd

Can,i

This anin
listricts, wl
' the cat "
liTs it as sp
^\■lis boreal

America

The heav
t.iiidard of
;ii;il is more

1 is not sur|
Tired by till
ilicir feast d.

i.

AFPENHIX.

2;.;>

>. 51

irils. Wlipn
puffinf; noise
Wartiri fur is
' the nani(! of
ur I'lir-sliops.

. I. p. 52.

s prey in die
ator size, ilie
3 skins oC tlie;

p. r)5.

■ach side, give : ■
irgcs when in
•oach it. The
wise iiarmir??s \
iiid it hcrrc'te.'; '':■•
or many days. /;
id, but for its
rous enemies,
mg it, a single

1. p. 57. I

)ld ; but there
)ine other re-
1 otter, vvliicli
mldes that of
worth from
lei of latitude. '

The coiTi;non colour of the American wolf is gray [Lupus ijri.seus), changing to
•.vhite in the higher latitudes, during the winter; but black individuals (Lfz/j/rv
(tier'), dusky ones (Liipi/s vuhibis), and p-ed ones i Ltijms sfirtr^, are also met with
oreasionally. A sma'.l wolf, which dilVcrs somewhat in its habits from the common
one, freciuenls the plains of the Saskatciiewan and Missouri in great numbers; and
lias been descril)ed as a distinct species, under the name of the Prairie wolf (L«;)w.«
latrai'.x).

Tiiii American Fox. /ulpes fulvns. V. R. A. 1. p. 98.

This fox differs remarkably from its European representative in its fur forming a
very valuable article of trade, particularly the black variety ; a single skin being
•,v(irth from twenty to thirty guineas in some years. The " cross" and " silver"
iiixcs are also much prized, though they differ froia the common red or tawny variety
ill the colour more than in the quality of their fur. Thi* ^jiecies inhabits the wooded
districts only, and hunts much on the borders of lakes for the mice, lemmings, and
Miiall birds, on which it preys.

The Kit-fox. Vulpes clnereo-argenlatus. F. B. A. 1. p. 98.

The diminutive kit-fox, similar in its habits and appearance to the ror.iac
ul Asia, inhaliits the prairie lands of the Saskatchewan, Missouri, and V,i>-
liiiTibia. This is the smallest of the North-Americaa foxes. Its fur is of little

•alue.

t
Thh Arctic Fox. Vulpes lagopus. (Des.marest.) F. B. A. 1. p. 83.

This playful and handsome animal inhabits the barren grounds north of the
rtoods, being mo.st plentiful on t; 3 islands and shores of the Ar(;tic sea, whce it
0 ings forth its young. U wanders far in the winter in search of food ; and in
[i;,^ticular se.'.sons travels into tlio wooded districts. It also goes out on the ice to
acohsiderable distance from the land, -iiid, according to Fabiicius, shows miK .i
unning and dexterity \\\ catchinj: aome kinds offish. The fur ch.uiges from gray
10 white in lh(! winter: b;it, tho igh very close and long, it is greatly inferior in
luality to that of the Vii/pes fii/vii: . Many pleasing anecdotes of this simple animal
ire told by Captain Lyons and othi r Arctic voyagers.

Coloured individuals, named " blue" or *' sooty" foxes, are frequently seen even
m the middle of winter.

m %

It

li

,, ,,. ■

■ ' .

m). 5

natural, most
the ruminat-
i|)[>earance of
lative, and its
kher it ho a
(local causes,
jell as in its
Ice. Indeed.
Ih other, thai
Igth and coii-
Ibe wolf ami
[aught, beiiit;

' Canada Lynx. Felis Cannrlennis. (Geoffroy.) F. B. A. I. p. 101.

This animal, which is cicthed with a very fine thick fur, inhabits the wooded
listricts, where it preys chiefly on the American hare. It is commoiily termed

the cat " by the tr'.ders, and is named Pneshuo by the Crees. Temminck consi-
lirs it as specilieally the same with the lynx of the North of Europe, whali he calls
Mis borealis .

' American Beaver. Castor Americamis, (F, Clvier.) F. B. A. I. p. 105.

The beaver's skin is the staple commodity of the fur countries, and form.s the
*m(lard of value in tralTlcking with the natives. The ronsequence is, that no ani-
;'i;il is more persccute<l , and as the admirable works it exec'iles betray its abod'',
I is not surprising that it shoidd be greatly reduced in numbers. I he ilesh is m'irii
■rized by the n.ilives as an article of diet,— a roasted heaver being the prime dish on
jtlcir feast days. As the food of tlie beaver consists in a great measure of tho '.i.ik

2.)G

APPENDIX.

of deciduous trees, i)articularly of tlio poplar, binii, and willow, its ran^p must he
restrained within the limits of tlie woods ; l)Ut runs to a \n^U latitude on ilip banks
of (he Mackenzie. The beaver inaj be considered as the civil engineer amoiii;
quadrupeds ; and the .skill with which it selects the proper situation for its dam, so
that it may be constructed witli the least labour and the greatest effect for tlooding
a large extent of ground, and keeping up a proper supply of water during the winter
is very surprising, especially when we consider that the dam is often at a consider-
able distance from the beaver-house. It also shows great providence in exca-
vating a number of vaults on Ihc margin of the pond, for places of retreat in the
event of the dwelling-house boing assailed. Its habits, however, having been tho-
roughly studied by the Indian hunter, its .«kill is no match for his perseverance ;
and but for the care taken by the Hudson's Bay Company to preserve the various
districts for four or five years in succession, the animal would soon become very
scarce. Fifty thousand beaver skins are annually iniporied into London from North
America.

The Musquash. Fiber zibethicus. (CuviEn.; F. B. A. I. p. 115,

The musk-rat, musquash, watsuss, or wachusk, — for it has all these names,-—
resembles the beaver in some respects, particularly in the fur ; but it has a lonn tail
which, instead of being depressed or spread out horizontally, is compressed and
tapering. The musquasli is very prolific, producing three litters in a season, and
breeding at a very early age. Every swamp or pond with grassy borders is in-
habited by it, up to the shores of the Arctic sea ; and notwithstanding the vast num-
oers that are annually destroyed by numerous enemies, there is no danger of its
being extirpated. The import of musquash skins into Great Britain in one year
amounts to nearly half a million. The fur is employed in the manufacture of hats
and though inferior in quality to the beaver fur, is very generally substituted for it
Uy the hat-makers.

*

American FiFXD-MousE. Mus leueopus. (Rafinesque.) F. B. A. 1. p. 142,

This mouse, which is the representative of the Mus sylvaticus of Europe, isk.
very abundant in the fui countries, taking the place of the domestic mouse, aiidf
speedily establishing ilsel! in every new fur post that is erected. It multiplies ra-1
pidly, as there is no domestic rat to keep down its numbers : though thate
ofTice is occaHionally perf'»rmed by the ermine, as we have already men- 1
tionod.

I

Tub American Hare. Lepus Anericanus. (Exrleben.) F. B. A. 1. p. 217.

This animal, whicl; is named " 'vawpoos" by the Cree Indians, and " the rabbit"
by the resident traders at Hudson's Bay, is very plentiful throughout the wooded
country. The bark of the willow constituting its chief winter food, it resides most-
Jy at that season on the borders of lakes and in swamps, where that shrub and the
dwarf birch grow. Being particularly abundant on the alluvial banks of the Mac-
kenzie up to til? G8th parallel, this hare furnishes the chief winter support oft)eki
Hare Indiins, vhos'. country does not nourish many of the larger quadri'pp'ls. Itl^*
ii^ taken genevady by stares set in the pains it makes through the sp.ow. ' »| :
habits are more like those of the rabbit than like the hare of Euiope, but it uocs
not burrow, though it occasionally seeks for shelter in a hollow tree. The fur, ,
whifl\ x^ browiiish above in summer, changes to snow -white in winter.

The rein

Kinds : a hi
principally
frequents t
111' the wint(
iiier. The
ilie year, cc
len lands,
ludians, the
none of the
lit the anim;
loiigue, wh
li'.d. Jleini
the moose-d
lish-fed veni
iif the year,
li''iiig, of all t
leiuale reind
l^ss |)alniatei
ioiuig reindi
liyether, a i

%

\$

ge must lie
Vlip l)anks
ecr anion [^
its (lam, so
or Hooding
itlie winter,
a cousider-
;e in exca-
itreat in the
g l)een tho-
rsevcrancc ;
the various
)Ccome very
from North

AIM'ENDIX. -'■"

Tur; Poi.AR Uaiii:. ij^epus glavta/is Lkmii.) V 15 A l.|i -Jil.

This hare may be considered as the American representative ol the Lrpus vnrin-
liilis of the Alpine and northern districts of Europe; but l)eing on the whcde a
stouter animal, and exhibiting some peculiar characters, Dr. Leach was induced
10 describe it as a distinct species. It inhabits the barren grounds and the islands
of trie Arctic sea up to tlie Tath parallel; feeding on the small shrubs which grow
ill the higher latitudes, such as the arctic willow, alpine arbutus, whortleberry, and
Labrador tea |)lant ; delighting iu stony places wiiere it can lind shelter ; and ii
winter burrowing in the; snow. In summer the upper I'ur is lioary, and in winter
|iiire white, except the tips of the ejrs, which are black at all seasons.

Another varying hare freque'its the prairies up to the aatb parallel ; and is sai>*
10 be common in the niouiitainous districts of the United States. This has been
iianHMl Li'/.Ks \'li';iiii((i>ns by Dr. Haslan.

it

pn

I i ii

115.

se names, —
IS a long tail,
ipressed and
[ season, and
)rders is in- \
he vast num-
Janger of its
I in one year)
cture of hats

I

itituted for it]

I. p. 142

»f Europe, is|,
mouse, and I

jnultiplies ra-f
though that!

Iready men- 1

1. p. 217.

' the rabbit"
the wooded
resides most-
iruii and the
if thcMac-
ipport of tie §
pdrupe'ls- It

SLOW, 'sf^

but it aoc3
. The fur,,

The Moose Deer. {Cervux alces Lins.) F. H. A. I \>.i\i2. '

The moose deer feeds principally u])on the smaller twigs of the willow . .ind is
lipiind from Hudson's 15ay to the Pacific, in every paitof the fur countries where
that shrub grows lUiriciently tall, following the Mackenzie river to the shores of the
\i('iicsea; but never entering the barren grounds. From the extreme wariness
111 the moose, the a(;uteness of its senses of hearing and smelling, and its speed of
loot, the art of killing it is considered as the clief-d'a'uvre of an Indian hunter,
except in spring, when a crust has been formed on the snow, and then it may be run
ilown without much skill. It is the largest of the American deer, and furnishes
the best and most juicy meat, with the exception of the reindeer, the flesh of
which, when in .season, is more delicate. A fu'l-growufat moose-deer weighs 1000
or 1,200 pounds. The skin, when dressed, forms the bebt leather lor mo-
cassins.

Thk REiNiMiER. {Cervits tarandun Linn.) F. B. A. 1. p. 238.

The reindeer, or caribou, as it is termed by the Canadian voyagers, is of twd
kinds : a larger race or variety, which exists in the wooded parts of the country,
principally on the coast, and near or upon the mountains; and a smaller kind, which
frequents the barren grounds, retiring within the verge of the woods in the depth
111 the winter, but travelling to the shores and islands of the Arctic sea in the sum
iiier. The latter eats grass ; but its principal food, (or a considerable portion o(
the year, consists of the various lichens which grow in such abuii(l;u).\- on the bar-
ren lauds. The reindeer furnishes food and clotliing to the Dog-rib and Copper
Indians, the Chepewyans, the Swamp or Coast Crees, and to the Esciuimaux ; but
lioiie of the .American tribes have domesticated it like the Laplanders. Every part
(if the animal is eaten, even to the contents of its stomach ; and the half-dried
longue, when roasted, is perlaps the greatest delicacy that the fur countries af-
1(1.(1. Reindeer meat, when ii> i'-e best condition, is not ouh superior to that of
ilie moose-deer and bison, bu ;, in ,iiy opinion, it surjiasscs the best mutton or Eng-
lish-fed venison. When lean, hm.vever, which is the case for a considerable part
of the year, it is neither nnlrilious nor palatable, the Iksh of a poor inusk-ov
being, of all the ruminating (|uadrupeds ofthecountry, alone, of inferior quality. The
lemale reindeer has horns as well as the male, though they are smaller and inuc'
V-ss palinated, and are also shed ai a ditlercnt time. The si; ins of six or sevcu
joiing reindeer, killed in (he autumn, form, when properly jirepared and sewed
I'igether, a robe m blanket which is constantly used bv the iiDitlicrii Indians \\\

'lii

ll

i

2i8

APPENDIX.

winter ; being botli light and warm, exceedingly wett adapted to the climate, and
aflbrding a sutTioieut covering lor a man in the coldest night.

The Wapiti. {Cervns slrongyloceros Svuhebch.) F. B. A. 1. p. 250.

This animal, l!)e waweskeesh of the Trees, which inhabits the plains of theCree
Sashatchewan, the neighbouring country, the banks of the Columbia, and New
Caledonia, is the American representative of the red deer, and though of consi-
derably greater size, it was long considered to be the same si)ccies. There are at
present, some very fine wapiti in the Zoological Gardens. The llesli of this (Iter
is considered as much inferior to that of the bison or moose deer ; its hide makes
excellent dressed leather.

There arc several other species of deer, and an antelope, on the prairie lands of
the Saskatchewan and Columbia rivers ; but the three that we have specified are
the only ones that interest the Indian tribes with whom Captain Back had to do.
The North American deer are still very imperfectly known to naturalists, and (ho
specific identities of the moose deer and the elk,' and of the reindeer of the new
and old Continents, have been by no means satisfactorily established. It is prolia-
ble that further investigation will prove the barron-groun i reindeer to be a di.itiii( t
species from that which inhabits the wooily country.

Rocky Mountain Goat. ( Capra Americana.) F. B. A. 1. p. 268.

This very interesting animal inhabits the higher parts of the mountains from
California up to the 65th parallel. It is most remarkable for bearing a very fine
wool, well adapted for the manufacture of shawls. The specimens that have been
brought home have interested the woolstaplers very much ; but it will be difficult
to procure a sulficient quantity for the purposes of commerce.

Rocky Mountain Sheep. {Oiis montana Desm. ) F. B. A. 1. p. 271.

This animal exceeds in size every variety of the domestic sheep, and equals an\
of them in the quality of its mutton. It is not clothed with wool, but ,with .i
close, soft, brittle hair, like the reindeer. The ram carries very large horns.

Musk-ox. (Ovibos moschatus Blainville.) F. B. A. 1. p. 275.

This animal inhabits the barren lands, and the most northern of Parry's Island?,
but retires to the verge of the woods, in the depth of winter. It feeds, like the
reindeer, chiefly on lichens ; and the meat of a well-fed cow is agreeably tasted
and juicy ; but that of a lean cow and of the bull is strongly impregnated with a
disagreeable musky flavour, so as to be palatable only to a very hungry man. The
musk-ox does not now exist in Greenland; and though extinct also in Siberia,
bones either of the American species, or of one very similar to it, have been found
there,

American Blson. {Bos Aniericanus Gmeun.) F. B. A. 1. p. 279.

Thii, ox has lately become well known in England under the name of honasstis
and specimens exist in the Zoological Gardens, and in several parks. Its range in
the fur countries is restricted between the 10th meridian and the rocky mountains,
and it does not go beyond the 62d parallel of latitude ; hut it is on the prairie
lands only that the numberless herds noticed by authors are to be seen. The
pemmican, which is so useful, and in fact alinostesscntial, to the traveller through

APPENDIX.

2j<>

ate, and

50.

rtheCree
and New
of cnnsi-
;re arc, at
this deci'
ide makes

le lands of
citied are
ad to do.
s, andtlio
the new
is prnba-
: .1 diatiiiit

the fur countries, is made principally of iho meat of the bison. The fleshy parts
of the hind quarters are cut into very thin slices, dried in the sun, and pounded.
Two parts of the pounded meat are then mixed with one of melted fat, and packed
into a bag formed of the hide of the animal. A bag weighing 9()lbs. is called a
' tnnreau" by the Canadian voyagers, and, in fact, only one bag of pemmican is
generally made from each bison cow that is killed. Two pounds of this kind of
food are surticient for the daily support of a labouring man ; though, when the
voyagers first commence upon pemmican for the season, they will each consume
three pounds or more. In the spring they generally boil the young shoots of the
V.pilohium angiistifoliiim along with it; and the Orkiieymen in the service of the
liudsan's Bay Company add flour or oatmeal, thus rendering it much more pala-
table. The best pemmican is made of finely pounded meat, mixed with marrow,
;in(l further improved by the addition of dried berries or currants. If kept from
the air, it may be preserved sound for several years ; and being very portable, it
might be used with great advantage in provisioning troops that have to make forced
marches. It may be eaten raw, or mixed with a little water, and boiled; and^
although not much relished by those who taste it for the first time, the voyageur,
with the single addition of tlie luxury of tea, requires nothing else for breakfast,
and dinner, or supper ; the two last meals being generally conjoined on a voyage in
the fur countries.

'! li

1!

J68.

tains frniii
1 very fine
have been
36 difficult

271.

equals an>
l)ut ,wilh a
rns.

s Island?,
, like the
bly tasted
with a
an. Thf
1 Siberia.
een fouiul

led

Vwnassus ;
Is range in
liountains,
he prairie
Een. The
|r through

The Bald Eagle. {Aquila leucocephnla.) F. B. A. 2. p. 15.

The bald or white-headed eagle resides all the year in every part of the United
States; but visits the fur countries only in the summer, arriving there in the van
of the migratory birds. The comparative lengths of the quill feathers vary in
different individuals. Mr. Audubon states, that the second quill is longest : in a
specimen obtained on Sir John Franklin's expedition, it was the fourth quill ; and
in the one now brought home by Mr. King, it is the third that has that dis-
tinction.

Pigeon Hawk. (Falco cohnnbarius.) F. B. A. 2. p. ',15.

In some specimens the second, in others the third, quill exceeds the others in
length : in Mr. King's, these feathers are equal to each othei ; and the other pri-
maries stand, as to length, in the following order : Uh, Isf, 5th, (ith.

Long-eared owl. {Sirix otus.) P. B. A. 2. p. 72.

The specimen, though in complete plumage, is very small, measuring only
14J inches from the point of the beak to the tip of the tail. The latter member is
as long i' Miat of an ordinary individual, whose total length is 17 inches.

TinLr. Tyrant FLy»-cATCHER. {Tynmwila pusiiln.) F, R A. 2. p. 144.

,1. bird of this species, obtained on Sir .John Franklin s second expedition, at
Carlton House, is figured in the Fauna Boreali-Ainericana f(. 40. f. I , and Mrv
Swainson, who had obtained a specimen also from Mexico, noints out in that work
its differ jnces from the Muscicapa querula of Wilson, or V acadica of Gnielin
and Bonaparte, which it very nearly resembles, the plumage of both being pre-
cisely similar. T. pusilla has a shorter bill, and shorter wings than qurrii/n, and
there is a difference in the comparative length of their ([uill feathers. In the
■atter, the first quill is equal to the fifth fur to the fourth, .iccording to Audubon),

17-

1' fin

. : 4

■ (

' ■''

'-'()()

apim:m)F\.

and the second and third are h)ngest; in /msilld tlio first is rather shorter than tde
sixth, and the fonrth is visibly longer than tlie second, thougli th(! third, or longest,
very little exceeds cither oCthem. The specimen brought home by Mr. King ditlcrs
from the one referred to above, solely in being about a ([uarter of an inch longer
from the point of the hill to the end of the tail ; but the proportions of the other
parts arc the same.

The Arctic BLUE-niRn. {Sialin urctira.) F. H. A. 2. p. 209. t. 39.

A single bird of this species was killed by Mr. Dease at Great Bear Lake, on Sir
John Franklin's second expedition. Since then, the same gentleman has sent me
four specimens from New Caledonia, where it is pretty couimon, and is known to
the natives by the name of " Thlee-ooday." Mr. King's specimen proves that it
goes as far east, on the shores of Great Slave Lake, as the 105th meridian. Ail
the individuals that I have seen agree exactly in the colours of their plumage, as
well as in other respects, with the one figured in the Fauna Boreali-Americana.
In one specimen only, the first quill feather almost equals the second, but in none
does it exceed it, as is the case with Sialia Wilsonii.

Tenessee Worm-eatek. (Vermivora pereyrina.) F. B. A. 2. p. 221. 1.42. f. 2.

Mr. Audubon says that this species is very rare in the United States ; but it
would appear to be more common in the fur countries, having been found by Sir
John Franklin's party, as well as by Captain Back's, in both instances in the .58(1
parallel of latitude.

Yellow-tailed Gnat-catcher. {Setophaga ruticilla.) F. B. A. 2. p. 223.

This singularly-coloured and lively little bird is very common in the Brazil-,
and in the islands of the Caribbean Sea. It arrives within the limits of the United
States early in March; and in May reaches the Saskatchevan, where it may lir
seen sporting about among the lower branches of the large willows that grow in
that swampy district.

Ueddisii-brown Titlark. {Anthus Aquatictm.) F. B. A. 2. p. 231. t. 44.

Mr. Audubon informs us, that this titlark is met with in every part of the
United States ; but does not breed there. It was seen on Sir John Franklin's
second expedition on the Saskatchewan, and Mr. King obtained two specimens at
Fort Reliance on the 3d of June. It probably breeds in the latter quarter, or still
farther north.

Tree Bcntling. {Emberiza canadensis.) F. B. A. 2. p. 252.

Three specimens of this buiitling were obtaine<l by Mr, King at Fort Reliance,
which is farther north than it was previously known to range ; but it most pro-
bably goes to the limit of the woods. Its winter (juarters are, according to Mr.
Audubon, in the United States, north of the Ohio.

RosE-BREASTEi) Grosheak. (Coccotfiraustes Ludoviciana.) F. B. A. 2. p. 271.

Mr King obtained a specimen of this charming bird on Lake Winipeg, and
has made a note of its irides being red. Audubon and Wilson state them to be
hazel.

I

Tin

This I

liities (
facility
of great
larly sw;
by the
its food,
grouse, ;
the west
coverts I
:ire also

This pi
(OuntricH
the suppo
the barr<i
liie sumni
part of till
liy nets or

The I

This spe
never com
ivay. It is
huiopus mi,
ilong with
III the islai
peculiar to
ipathers be
'iirtts.

Sharp-1

This bird
prairies and
preceding j
jirouse, whi
i;piius inhabJ
serviceable
Hack passed

^ Pasi

j This pige
' l-'nited State
III such qua
iiMich to the
month or tw(
four-footed i

r

AI'I'ENniX

■.'(i I

hail tlie
lol>^pst,
g ditlcrs
b lonj;er
le other

W.

I, on Sir
scat me
;iiown lo
s that it
inn. All
inagp, as
incricana.
t in none

. 42. f. 2 .

BS ; but it
nd by Sir
11 the 53(1

p. 2-i'.\.

le Brazils,
he United
it may Ik-
t grow ill

t. 44.

t of the
iFranklin's
3ciraens at
Icr, or still

Reliance,
I most pro-
Ing to Mr.

I2. p. 271

[ipeg, and

U'-MU

to be

TfiK Spotted Grou.sk. {Tvtmo muaJensis.) F B. A. 2. p. 317. t. 6'i.

This bird ranges from the northern district.s of the United States to the extre-
liities of the woods on the banks of the Mackenzie (lat. OH®; ; and from the
facility with which it can be killed at certain seasons when game is scarce, is
of great service to the Indian hunter. It inhabits thick forests, and particu-
larly swampy places where the black spruce grows, and on this account is cnlled
by the Canadian voyagers perdrix de savnnne. The leaves of the spruce form
its food, which gives its dark-coloured flesh a strong resinous taste Franklin's
t;rouse, an inhabitant of the acclivities of the Rocky Mountaiii.s, and the country to
the westward of that ridge, differs from the spotted grouse in the twelve upper tail
(overts being broadly tipped with white, and, according to Mr. Douglas, their eggs
nre also dissimilar.

The VVii.LOW Grouse {Lngoptm snliceti^ F. B. A. 2. p. Sf)!.

This ptarmigan is of still more importance to the Indian population of the liir
rountries than the preceding grouse, on account of its vast numbers sunicing lor
tlie support of many of the tribes for a considerable part of the year. It inhabits
llie barren grounds and the summits of the rocky hills in the woody country, during
the summer season, seeking shelter in the woods in winter; and it is in the latter
)iart of the year that it is most plentifully taken. Ten thousand have been caught
liy nets or snares in one winter at a single fur post.

The Rock Ptarmigan. {Lagopus rupestris.) F. B. A. 2. p. 351. t. (54.

This species is more peculiarly an inhabitant of the barren landx than the last,
never (•omiiig into the woods except in the winter, and even then only for a short
way. It is verv abundant in some districts. Another sjiecies, named by Dr. Leach
/ff^ojOMs >««<;<»', visits, according to Captain James Ross, (he peninsula ol Boothia,
along with this <iiid the willow grouse, but the rock ptarmigan i^ the most abundant
III the islands of the Arctic sea. There is a smaller ptarmigan (liaii any of these,
peculiar to the Rocky Mountains, which may be known by the whole of its tail
leathers being white, whence it has received the specific appellation of lognpus hu~

'IIVllS.

Sharp-tailed Grouse. (CentrocercuH phasianellus.) V. B. \. 2. |i. 3()1.

This bird is abundant in the fur countries uji to the (His parallel, both in the
prairies and among the woods. Its flesh, though superior to that of any of the
preceding ptarmigan or grouse, is not so tender or white as that of the rudcd
grouse, which is also plentiful as high as the 5Gth parallel. Oiher birds of this
i;enus inhabit the plains of the Columbia, but those we have mentioned arc the most
serviceable to the Indian tribes that inhabit the districts through which Captain
Back passed.

Passenger Pigeon. {Columha mii/rfiforia. V. B. A. 2 p. 3()3.

This pigeon, which breeds in almost incredible numbers in some parts of the
i iiited States, visits the fur countries up to the ()2nd parallel of latitude, but not
III such quantities anywhere to the northward of r>ake Winipeg, as to contnbul<^
luiieh to the support of the natives : at the south end of that lake, indeed, for a
month or two in summer, when the floods have overflowed the low lands, and iie.
four-footed game is to be |iroetii'eil, a feu lainijie^ ol lii.liaii'. subsist upon thi-.

I«'1F

m

363

APPENDIX.

t

bird. It visits the north after the termination of the breeding season in the Lnitcd
States. Caplain James Ross saw a single i)igeon of this species as high as latitude
73 1 in Iiallin's Bay : it flew on board the Victory during a storm, and must have
strayed from a great distance. The wind, as we Dnd by a reference to Sir John
Ross's narrative, blew from the north-east at the beginning of the gale, shifting
afterwards to the eastward. As the Victory was to the northward of the island
of Disco at the time, if the bird came in either of these directions, it must have
taken flight from the northern part of Greenland, but it is not likely to have found
food on that barren coast.

The Piping Plover. {Charadr'ms melodus Bonap.) ' f

A specimen of this pretty plover was obtained by Mr. King on Lake Winippg,
and that piece of water is probably its northern limit, as it was not observed on
the former expeditions through the higher latitudes. It is consequently a moif
southern bird than the Charadr'ms semipalmatus, which was seen in abun(lan(;c by
Sir John Franklin's party during the whole route, and by Captain James Uoss in
the peninsula of Boothia, where it passes the summer in the marshes. The piping
plover was described at first by Wilson as a variety of the common ringed plover,
but in afterwards figuring the semipalmated plover under the same name, he in-
timated his suspicion of its being a distinct species. Subsequent authors have
pointed out its peculiar characters, and the two species, together with a third named
Charadrius Wilsunii, and very nearly resembling them, are well described and
figured in Mr. Audubon's splendid work. The piping plover breeds as far to ihe
southward as the Keys of Florida, and though it exhibits every where nearly the
same plumage, wo shall here subjoin a description of Mr. King's specimen, as it is
the only one that has been brought from the fur countries. |,

CotOL'u. — Bill, black towards the point, orani;e at its tip. Upper plumage, lisht
brownish-gray, that is, of a pule tint, intermediate between the yellowish-gray and li;;lit
Rrnecoli-brown of Werner. Forehead, cheeks, throat, the whole under-plumage and sides
of the rump, white ; the wliite being continued round the neck, so as to form a narrow rins;
behind fhenajie. A narrow black band extends between the anterior ansks of the orbits,
behind the white of the forehead ; and there is a black patch on each shoulder, with a narrow
connecting line crossing the breast; but in this specimen, the black does not cross the neck
above, as it, occasionally does, on the tips of a single row of feathers, having probably been
worn off. The quills, greater coverts, and middle tail feathers, are blackish-brown ; but tl:e
middle of the shafts and part of the inner webs of the former are white ; that colour spreading
on the fourth and succeeding primaries to their outer webs ; the tips of the wing coverts also
exhibit various degrees of while. Tertiaries mostly like the back; but their tips are darker,
and their extreme edges soiled white. Outer tail feathers entirely white ; the next jiair
white at both exlrcniitics, the other showing successively less white, and the central ones, as
has been mentioned, entirely brown.

Form. — Outer web of the feet notched, including only the first joint of the outer toe,
and merely two-thirds of the corresponding phalanx of the middle toe. Inner web scarcely
perceptible.

Inch. lin.
Length from tip of bill to end of lail. G 7

Length of tail . 2 ."i

folded wing 4 8A

.— tarsus 0 lOi

Inch.
Length of middle toe and nail . , . 0

Ijcngth of bill above 0

• bill to rictus 0

lin.

P.-

e'

flight.

the United
I a» latitude

must have

to Sir John

lie, shifting

tlic island

must have

have found

h

ke Winippg,
observed on
Mitly a more
bundaniT by
uics Ross in
The pipiiig
inged plover,
lame, he in-
siithors have
I third named
escribed and
as far to the
re nearly the
iinen, as it is

t

plumage, liaihl

gray and ii;:lit

nage and sides

a narrow liiii;

of the orbits.

with a narrow

ross the neck

probably been

own ; but the

our spreading

g coverts also

ps are darker,

the next pair

lentral ones, as

the outer toe,
web scarcely

Fncli. liii.

n s,-

. 0 fi

. (I 7^

APPENDIX.

2H3

The Maixari). {Anas bonchas AtcT. ) F. B. A. 2. p. 442.

This (luck is stated by Mr. Audubon to be rare on the Atlantic coast of the
United States, but to 1 e more numerous in the interior, and to breed as far soutli
IS Kentucky and Indiana. It is very generally difVused through the fur coiuitries up
10 the northern extremity of the woods, and is the weigliticst and best duek that re-
sorts thither. Of the true ducks ( the niuitinre of Swainson ), the shoveller passes
ihrough the fur countries in about eqaal nuud)ers with the mallard, iiiit breeds
liu'ther north, on the barren grounds. The gadwal and widgeon breed in all parts
of the woody country, though in smaller numbers than the preceding ones; while
the green -winged teal, on the other hand, is much more numerous, and breeds on
the banks of every river and lake, both in the woody and barren districts. The
blue-winged teal is also numerous, to the southward of the Athabasca country ;
and the summer-duck is rare on the Saskatchewan, and does not travel farther
iinrth. These ducks arrive from the south as soon as the snow melts, and before
the ice of the small lakes is broken up. The fu/i;/n/iiia', or sea ducks, are also
very numerous in the fur countries, either on their passage farther north, or as
halting to breed there. The eider and king ducks arc j)lentiful on the coast and
islands of the Arctic sea ; and also on the coast of Hudson's Hay, to the north of
Churchill ; but are never seen in the fresh waters of the interior. In their migra-
tions, it would appear that they keep near the open sea, passing along the eastern
coast of Labrador. The American scoter {oidcmla Ameriraim ) is al.so an inhabi-
tant of the sea-coast only, breeding near Churchill. The surf and velvet ducks tra-
vel through the interior to the arctic coasts and islands, where they breed : they are
very abundant, but not much valued as articles of food, except when better i)rovi-
sions are scarce. The noisy long-tailed duck assembles in still larger flocks than
these, and breeds in the same places. It is this bird which the Canadian voyagers
celebrate in their songs, under the name of " caecawee.'" The canvas-back, po-
chard, scaup, and ring-necked ducks, breed every where to the northward of the
50th parallel of latitude up to the extremity of the continent ; but do not ap])ear
often on the sea-coast. I'hiy associate much with the (inalhife, seeking their food
in the same lakes and ponds, but taking it more generally from the bottom in
deeper places, and consequently diving more. The Rocky-mountain garrot, golden
eye, and spirit ducks, are still better divers than the preceding, and the two last
are very numerous. Their flesh is tough. The harlequin duck is rare, and the
very curious ruddy duck, though plentilul on the plains of the Saskatchewan, does
not go much farther northwards. This bird has a tail very similar in structure to
that of a cormorant, which it carries erect in sw imming, so that at a little distance
the body seems to have a head stuck up at each end. The ruddy duck is said to
arrive in the fur countries always in the night time, and to be rarely seen on the
wing : indeed, its short pinions do not appear to be well adapted for sustained
flight.

The mergansers are not rare in the northern parts of America ; but they are of
comparatively little importance, in an economical point of view.

Trumpeter Swan. ( Cygnus huccvintor. ) F. B. A. 2. p. 404.

This swan, the first of the water-fowl that revisits the fur countries in the
spring, is hailed with delight by the Indians as the harbinger of plenty, for the
geese and ducks shortly follow, and abundance reigns in the encampments of the
natives for a few weeks. The trumpeter swan, even on its first arrival, is generally
seen in pairs, seldom in flocks, and it frequents eddies under water-falls, and other

i-ni I!

I

■ Jti

H\:i

I OK.

rf

'I
I'll [1

ii

%

I

m

\i i \ I

lilt

■^t)1

AIM'KNOIX

nieces of open water, until the general lircakiiij; up of the iee on the rivers ami lakes.
Being dilllcult of approaili, it is most IVeiiiw iitly killed at a long shot by a single
liall. As the down ol the swan is of eonHiderai)l<; value, the l>ird is skinned l>y
the hunter, hut the earease even alter inidergoing that operatirm is very good to
eat, being nearly e(|ual to that ol'a goose. The breeding places of the trumpeter swan
•ire beyond the (iOtb |)arallel, but it is uoi so northern a bird as the following
pecies.

HicwnKS SvvAV. Ci/'jinis liiwirtii.) K. I>. A, 2. p. 405.

This is a smaller bird than the trumpeter, and is common to Europe and Ame-
rica. Ft is plentiful >n the coast of Hudson's Bay, and breeds on the peninsulas
of IMelville and IJootbia, and in the islands of the Arctic Sea. It arrives aniuii^
the latest of the water-fowl in the fur countries in spring, and stays long in the
autumn. The last swans of the season passed over Fort Franklin, lat. Gl-" S., on
the 5th of October.

Canad.i (iOOSe. ( Aiiscr CdVfideiisis. ) V. U. A. "2. p. -IGH.

The Canada goose, named " outarde" by the early French travellers in the lin
countries, and also by the Canadian voyagcurs of the present day, breeds sjiaiiiiglN
in the interior of the United States as low as the Ohio, and in the state of IMaim
near the Atlantic coast. It winters, Mr. Auilnbon tell us, in vast flocks in llic
savannas o " Florida and the Arkansas, and commences its northward niigiatimi
from the middle and western districts with the first melting of the snows, thai is,
l)etween the 20th of March and the end of April. Major Long informs us thai
the great migration of geese commences at Engineer Cantonment on the Missouri

lat. ll-J". ) on the 2-2nd of February, and terminates in the latter end of IMan li
The Canada goose breeds in every i>art of the fiir countries, but has not been seen
on the shores of the Arctic Sea. It arrives in Hocks when the snow melts, and soon
afterwanis spreads over the country in pairs. The following tabW; of the ordiiiarv
dates of its arrival at particular places gives a correct idea of the commenceiiiciir
of spring in the different parallels.

Peiietangui.shene, Lake Huron, Lat. al^" N. March 24. April "2.

Cnmborland House, Saskat . . — ,'')4'> N. April

Fort Chepewyan — 58'° N. —

— Kcsolutioii, Slave Lake . — (ilin N. May

Enterjirise

Franklin, Great Hear Lake

— (ili" N.

— (i4-i° N.

M'^" N. —

8.
20.

1.
12.

7.

to 12.

— 25.

— (i.

— 20.

— 20.

In the mouth of July the old birds moult, and may be seen in every rivci-,
followed by their young brood, not fully feathered and incajiable of Hying. When
pursued they dive rejieatedly, but are soon fatigued, and make for the shore;
tiiough, unless they reach a swamp where they can hide themselves among tin
long grass, they fall an easy prey to tlie hunter, who knocks them on the head willi
a stick. A canoe is soon loaded at this sport ; and I have., on several occasions,
procured a supper in this way for a large party in a few minutes. As soon as the
ground begins to harden with the autumnal frosts, and one or two falls of snow havi
taken place, the Canada goose again assembles in large flocks, and wings its way In
the southward. In their flights the geese generally take advantage of a favonral)lr
gale ; and when their cry is heard in the night high in the air, as they hasten Ijc-
I'ore the wind to warmer latitudes, cold weather is sure to follow, 'i'hcrc ai e < ci
;iin spots or passes which the geese always visit on their migrations; but the) 'l''

nut lref|i
nicr seabi
over on i
Hudson's
The lir
into the
\\edg(;-fo
• uook, v
rail ; and.
More arc
their view
him from
itales to ei
liy tlie pri
of kiUing
liigh wher
larger lake
|iasscs bet
Ibllowing r
^reat quan
tliciu is a \

\I'PEM)l\.

'.'»■».'

mill liikos.

kimicil liy
y };oo(l (o

IK'tfTHWItll

Ibl lowing

and Amc-
IK'iiinsiil.K
ves aiiHJiii;
r>ii^ ill (Id-
I'l^" N., nil

; ill the lin'
s spaiiiii^lv
: of Maiiir
cks ill llic
1 niii^iatiiMi
'AS, tlial is,
ins UK thai
c IMissouii
of 31an li
t been spcii
and sdiin
oi'dinai'\
lurnccnicnt

ei'v river,
.p. \N hen
the shore ;
[inioiig thi
licad witli
occasions,
con as tlic
jiiow ha\f
its way In
lavdiirablr
asten bc-
• are eer-
il lhc\ dv

not Ireqiiciit the name jilares in equal nuinbers in the spring anil tall. In llie tor
mcr seiibon they make eonsiderahle halts on lakes of the interior, which they jiass
over on their return, Hhowin^ a iiret'erenee in the aiituniii to the swaiiifiy shores ol
Hudson's Hay, where they linger alter the inland waters are covered with ice.

The (irst appearance of the Oaiiada goosr in the sprint; at a I'lir post infuses life
into the whole establishment. Every gnu is put in order ; and as soon as the
«edge-f'orined llock is .seen Croin afar, man, woman, and child rush out, shouting;
• wook, wook, wook," at the jiitch of their voices. The silly birds respond to the
lall ; and, wheelinj; round the place, generally lose one or two of their number.
More arc culled Irom each flock by the skilful Indian hunter, who, concealed from
their view aincuig the long grass or thick brush-wood, is able to call the geese to
him from a great distance. The first birds he procures are set up on the beach as
stales to entice others to alight; and the ordinary rate of his success may be judged
hy the price which a goose bears; namely, a single charge of ammunition, the ihaiice
.if killing several at a shot more than compensating for failures. The geese tly
high when over the land, but ilescend on approaching the water, and cross the
larger lakes mostly at particular (ilaces. It is singular to see how tloek after llock
passes between the same islands, or through the same gap in the woods, each
lollowiug as nearly as possible the track of its predecessor. At some of the posts
^reat quantities of geese are salted for winter use ; but this method of preserving
tiiciu is a very bad one, a salted goose being both dry and tough.

Laugiiino Goose. yAnser nlbifruna.) F. H. .\. 2. p. 4tjti.

This is a smaller goose than the preceding; and, in the comparative length of the
iieck and form of the bill, it more nearly resembles our domestic goose, or its wild
iriginal. The laughing goose travels in great flocks through the fur countries,
eight or ten days later than the first appearance of the Canada goose, and breeds
on the coasts and i.slauds of the Arctic Sea, north of the tiTth parallel of latitude.
Us call is much like the prolonged laugh of a man. Captain James Ross did not
sec this goose on the peninsula of Boothia, and it does not appear to be common
iin the coast of Hudson's Bay. The autumn migration southwards of the laughing
^oosc commences early in September; and its return at that season to the fur dis-
ricts is often the first indication of winter having begun within the arctic circle.
It passes on towards the United States, in advance of the Canada goose ; and Mr.
Vudubon says that it arrives before the latter in Kentucky, where many of the species
winter; but many also, he is convinced, go entirely to the southward of the United
States' boundary. The same gentleman informs us that this species leaves its winter
juarters a fortnight sooner than the Canada goose, which is dillerent from the order
(if their appearance on the banks of the Saskatchewan, its tlesh is superior to thai
•)f the Canada goose.

Snow Goose. (Anser hiipfrhoreus.) V. V>. A. I. p. UiT.

This beautiful goose !:,i.s exactly the gait and form of the preceding; and is
very little larger, when full g-own. The two species, according to Audubon, quit
llicir winter quarters, :n the United States, at the same time ; but the snow goose
i;enerally makes its first nppe trance in the fur countries a few days later than the
laughing goose, though tlu; main flocks of both pass at the same time. The snow
,;oose breeds in vast numbers on the borders of the small lakes near the coasts of
llie Arctic Sea, on the islands ol the same, and also on IMelville I'eninsiila. In its
I iminiey norlhwards, it reaches (he .'jKli parallel on the I'llli of Aiiril; Ihe.j'ah, on
! Ill' -irjlh of (he same moiidi ; the (iKIi parallel, on the -Jdlb of Mav ; and i(s breed-

:ii it'' i'

'im

m'

IMAGE EVALUATrON
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

■filM 12.5

|5o "^^ Mm

""" 11^

2.0

^ m

1.8

IL25 11 1.4

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Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WCST MAIN STREET

Wt •i.»;«,N.Y. M5«0

(716) 873-4503

^

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^

fi6tt

APPENDIX.

ing stations, in the 69th, by the beginning of June, when the snow is only mcl.Rd
Iroin some elevated spots. The snow goose when fat is a very excellent bird,
vicing with the laughing goose in its qualities as an article of diet.

HuTCHlNs' Goose. {Anser Hutchinsii.) F. B. A. 2. p. 470.

This bird, in the colours of its plumage, strongly resembles the Canada goose,
and is often considered as merely a small variety of that species. In its form,
however, it is more like the barnacle or brent, with which it will be evidently as-
sociated in an ornithological system. Mr. Audubon, who has given the only figure
that has been published of this species, thinks that it is known in the state of
Maine under the name of winter or flight goose. It migrates along the coast of
lludson^s Bay, and breeds in the peninsulas of Melville and Bootbia, laying three
or four eggs of a pure white colour ; and Captain James Ross informs as that its
flesh has a most ex(][uisite flavour. It arrived at Boothia about the middle of June.

Brent Goose. (Anser bernicla.) F, B. A. 2. p. 469.

This neat small goose is very numerous on the coast of Hudson's Bay, in its
passage to and from the north. Captain James Ross states that it did not remain
near Felix Harbour (Bootbia) to breed, but went still farther north; and that it is
found during the summer months in the highest northern latitudes that have been
visited. It was found breeding on Parry's Islands, in latitudes 74° — 75°.

I

FISH.

Every part of the fur countries, with the exception of the prairie lands of the Red,
Saskatchewan, and Columbia rivers, is intersected in every dirtolon by lakes and
their connecting streams, all of them abounding in fish. In those districts in par-
ticular where the primitive strata prevail, the rivers are merely chains of many-
armed lakes, linked together by narrow rapids or cascades. As it is in these parts
of the country, at least as far north as the woods extend, where the furs arc chiefly
obtained, most of the forts or trading posts are established within their limits; but
if it were not for the abundance of fish, it would be very difficult to obtain due
supplies of provision, since the larger quadrupeds are not so plentiful in the woods
as to furnish a certain subsistence to a numerous party for the whole year. Meat
posts, as they are termed, can be formed only in the prairies, where the bison and
deer abound, or at certain localities near the northern range of the woods, where
the reindeer pass in large herds in spring ?nd autumn. In some quarters, a« we
have mentioned, large quantities of gee.se can be procured for a few weeks, and in
others vast numbers of grouse are snared ; but, in general, no post can be con-
sidered as safe for a winter residence unless there be a good fishing station in its
vicinity.

Ample details of the various methods of fishing in use in thf fur countries have
been given by Ileani: and succeeding travellers; and also in the third volume of
the Fauna Boreali-Americana ; so that we need not enlarge on that subject, but
merely mention that at all fishing places, the principal supply for winter tisc
is obtained in the autumn, immediately before or soon after the lakes freeze over.
As the fish are taken from the net, a rod is passcu through tlieir gills, by whicii
they are suspended to lofty stages, where they are out of the reach of dogs anil
beafets of prey. Those that arc hung up before the frost has set permanently in
acquire a putrid taint, but arc thought to be rather improved in fjuality ; tbc
others that are caught later, arc preserved sound by the frost all the winter.

k

I'llE AniHAl

This celell
the Arctic Sl
wiiich its fisl
msson hlnrm
lakes, attain!
Lakes; but
nr four poui
that never pi
of diet, to n|
ropean fish
herring, fro|
countries is l
s;ood when f
The other
iufficient ni
of various k
cius) ; sever
trouts are e
however, be
some month!
i-aught plcni
countries, fr
than from it
all the trout
the westwar
country to tl
of Europe, a
The sucki
,tiid are all
The meth
sucking car[
so disagrees
which is cor
little flour ;
tea bread, tl
There an
particular d
yields, in a
Americana^
gonus ; th
C.) and tb(
None of
Lake ; but
Sea, and d(
with the tr
Mishcd by
bauds, wh
palate bon

APPENDIX.

267

I'liE AniHAWMEu. {Coiegonua albus.) F. B. A. 3. p. 195. t 81). f. 2. A. &. B. ;

and t. 94. a. b. c.

This celebrated fish is found in every piece of fresh water between Lake Erie and
the Arctic Sea; and it may be said that it is tarough the abundant supply of food
rtliich its fisheries yield, that the fur trade is carried on. Tlie attihawmeg, or
poisson hlanc of the voyageiirs, grows to the greatest size in the larger and deeper
laices, attaining l&lbs. weight and upwards in Huron, Superior, or Great Bear
Lakes ; but those generally taken throughout th<; fur countries average about three
nr four pounds. When in season, it is a rich, agreeable, and very wholesome fish,
iliat never palls the appetite ; and is preferable, tven when lean, for a daily article
of diet, to any other fish of the country. Though of the salmon family, the Eu-
ropean fish that resembles it most, when cooked, is, perhaps, a fat Loch Fyne
herring, fresh from the water. The most usual method of cooking it in the fur
countries is by boiling, so as to form an excellent white soup ; but it is extremely
^ood when fried, and especially if enveloped in batter.

The other fish that are caught in the several districts of the fur countries, in
sufficient numbers to be of importance in an economical point of view, arc, trouts
of various kinds, of which the principalis the snltno nmnnycush ; pike (fsoa; lu-
cius) ; several sucking carp {catastomi); and the meihy {lota maculosa). All the
trouts are excellent, particularly the large one we have just named. They answer,
however, better as occasional articles of diet than for daily use ; and it is only in
some months of the year, and particularly on the approach of spring, that they are
laught plentifully. The jiike is of more importance to the inhabitants of the fur
lountries, from the readiness with which it takes a bait at all seasons of the year,
than from its excellence as an article of diet, for, in that respect, it is inferior to
,ill the trout tribe. It is remarkable that the pike does not exist in the waters to
the westward of the Rocky IMountains, though the species which is found in the
country to the eastwaru of that ridge is the same that inhabits the rivers and lakes
of Europe, and North Asia, and even the Caspian sea.

The sucking carp are not much prized for food ; but they arc very numerous,
,iiid are all well adapted for making soup.

The methy (lota maculosa), though not so numerous as the coregoni, trouts, or
sucking carps, is yet universally diffused through the fur countries; but its flesh is
so disagreeable that it is never eaten except in times of scarcity. Its roe, however,
which is composed of very small ova, makes good bread when beaten up with a
little flour ; and even when cooked alone, it forms cakes that arc very palatable as
tea bread, though rather dilficiilt of digestion.

There are other fish not so generally distributed, but which are of importance in
particular districts. Thus, the fishery at Cumberland House, on the Saskatchewan,
yields, in addition to those we have mentioned, the American sandre luciopercu
Americana) ; the mathemeg (pimelodus borealis) ; the tnllibee, a species of core-
genus ; the naccaysh ( hiodon chrysopsis, F. B. A. p. 232 311. pi. 94. f. 3. A. B.
C.) and the sturgeon {acipenser Rupertianus).

None of the fish named in the last paragraph go so far north as Great Slave
Lake ; but we find there the salmo Maclenzii, which ascends from the Arctic
Sea, and does not exist in the more southern waters. This fish, though agreeing
with the trouts in the slructiTe of the jaws, differs from all the subgenera rsta-
Mishcd by Cuvier in the lieijne Animal, in having the teeth disposed in velvet-like
liaiids, which are narrow on the tips of the jaws, and broader on the vomer and
iialate bones. From the crowded minute teeth, the name of Stenodis may be

inn i

lii

,j

til i;

80A

APPENDIX.

given to Ihe subgenus, ofwliich the inconnu or salmo MackeuzH is the only aster
laincd species. Back's grayling {thymallvs signifer), and the round-fish {com-ijonns
t/nad; ilateralis), abound in the clear rivers which fall into the north and east side
of Slave Lake, and in the waters in higher latitudes. They exist, but not nume-
rously, in Great Bear Lake also ; but the most abundant fish in that vast picoc of
water is the Bear Lake herring-salmon (corregonus lucidux). The inconnu does^
not ascend Bear Lake River, giving the preference to muddy streams. |

Salmon of various species spdwn in the rivers that fall into the Arctic Sea, and I
were taken in great quantities by Sir John Ross in the Gulf of Boothia. It is there- '
fore probable that some kinds enter the Thlew-ee-choh, though no specimens '
were brought home.

I

I'ory

dalis aui

gla

I ardaminc hi
Vasturtium pi
\rabis petra-f
Fiirritis strict]
Draba la;vipes

hirta
>isymbrium si
Eiitrema Edwi

No. II.
LIST OF PLANTS

COLLECTED BY MR. RICHARD KING, DURING THE I>RO(iKESS OK
THE EXPEDITION.

Named by W. J. Hooker, LL.D. F.R.S. &c. &c.. Professor of Botany, Glasgow i

RANUNCULACEiE.

\nemone patens - _ -

nemorosa (unusually hairy)
multifida (Poiret)
Pennsylvanica (L)
I lepatica triloba <r(flbo/t) -
Ranunculus aquatilis
cymbalaria

afUnis - - -

Pennsylvanicus
auricomus
sceleratus
Caltha palustris _ - -

Aquilegia Canadensis

j8 hybrida (Hook)
Actaia rubra . - .

PaPAVERACE/E.

Papavt'i" medicaulc - - -

Fort Reliance.
Lake of the Woods.
Lake Winipeg.
Ditto, and Slave Lake.
River Winipeg.
Saskatchewan River.
Lake Winipeg.
Slave Lake.
Athabasca.

ThlCNV-ee-choh and Athabasca.
Rainy Lake. Slave Lake.
Lake Winipeg.
Ditto.

Slave Lake.
Lake Winipeg.

- Thlew-ee-i;hoh.

\iola blanda
pubescei
Canader
Muhlenl

Parnassia palu
Polygala Sene

a

silene acaulis
Lychnis apetal
Spergula nodo
Larbraia uligin
!<tellaria borea'

laeta

\renaria lateri

peplo

lerastium vise

alpi

arv

G

ijpranium Can

I

Phaca astragal
iiiytropis ural
Astragalus hy{
Vicia Ame. ica
Lathyrus ociir(

Dryas integrift
Sieversia trifld

»

APPENDIX.

'JO'.t

o"ly asccr-
correijonns ,
J cast side
not iiuiuf-
ist |(icce of
onnu docs

Sea, and ;
It is there-
specimens \

Olasgnw I

I

FuMARlACFi;,

lorjdalis aurea
glauca

Crucifer^,

I ardamiiie hirsuta
Vasturtium palustre
\ral)is petra-a
rnrritis stricta
Braba Isvipes

hirta
Ntsyrabrium sophioidcs
Eiitrema Edwardsli

VlOLAREiE.

Wola blanda
pubesccns
Canadensis -
Muhlenbergiana

Droserace*.
I'arnassia palustris

PoLlGALEiE.
Polygala Seneka -

CaRYOPHYLLEjE.

silene acaulis
Lychnis apelala
Spcrgula nodosa
Larbra;a uliginosa -

River VVinipeg.
Ditto.

- River Winipeg, and Cnmberlaiul Mod-'

- Ditto.

- Ditto.

- Ditto.

- River Winipeg.

- Thlew-ee-choh.

- Lake Winipeg.

- Thlew-ee-cl'oh,

- Fort William.

- Dog River.

- Ditto. River Winipeg.

- Slave Lake.

Saskatchewan to Slave Lake.

- River Winipeg.

- Thlew-ec-choh.

- Gulf of Boothia.

- Saskatchewan.

- Missinippi River

Slellariaborealis(B«(/(?/ow) stricta (ffiVA)- River Winipeg.

laeta

Vrcnaria lateriflora

peploides

lerastium viscosum

alpinum

arvense

GfiRANIACEiE.

Oeranium Carolinianum -

LEGUMINOSiE.

Phaca astragalina -
iiiytropis uralensis /2
.Astragalus hypoglottis
Vicia Ame. icana -
Lathyrus ociiroleucus

RoSACE.E.

bryas integrifolia -
sSieversia triflorit

- Thlew-ee-clioh.

- Lake Superior.

- Gulf of Boothia.

- River Winipeg.

- Thlew-ee-choh.

- River Winipeg.

Saskatchewan.

Thlew-ee-choh. Slave Lake.

Ditto.

River Winipeg.

Lake Winipeg. Saskutchuwan.

Ditto. Slave lake.

'I'hicw-ee-choh.
Slave River.

' I

!l

I

210 APP

Fragaria Virgiiiiana

ENDIX.
- Ditto.

m Artemisia frig

Potentilla arguta - - -

- Saskatchewan River.

Ik. bici

anserina - - -

- Slave River.

K bar

hirsuta - - .

- Saskatchewan River.

^L unica montar

Vah,.ana - - -

- Thlew-ee-cboh River.

Vsenecio aurei

nivea - - -

- Ditto.

II palus<

tridentata

- Missinippi River.

f

Amelanchicr sanguinea

- Slave River.

b Erigeron pulcl
i purp

ONAGRAKIiE.

I Solidago virgj

Epilobium angustirolium -

- Saskatchewan River.

1 Aster panicul:

Epilobium latifolium

- Thlew-ee-choh River.

1 Antennaria pU

origanifolium -

- Saskatchewan.

1 ^'

alpinum ? near the preceding

- York Factory.

CEnothera biennis ? - -

- Athabasca.

" Campanula lin

Saxifrage^e.

I

Heuchera Richardsonii

- Saskatchewan.

Ledum palustr

Saxifraga oppositirolia

- Gulf of Boothia.

Arbutus alpins

cernua - - -

- Thlew-ee-choh.

uva I

nivalis - - -

- Ditto.

L Andromeda tel

Virginiensis

- River Winipeg.

1 po

vernalis - - -

- Ditto.

1 ca

hirculus - - -

- Thlew-ee-choh.

Rhododendron

tricuspidata

- Slave andW inipeg Lakes. Thlew-ee-choli ^^*'®* procum

UlMBELLIFERiE.

i

Zizia cordata - - ' -

- Lake Winipeg.

Vaccinium Pet

uli|

K vit

ARALlACEiE.

p-inax quinquefolium

- Saskatchewan.

i Gaultheria pro

CoRNEiE.

w ^

Cornus Canadensis

- Winipeg and Slave Lakes.

W Chimaphila un

CAPRlFOLIACEiE.

•

1 Pyrola rotundi

-

Sambucus racemosa

- Lake Winipeg.

■

Viburnum acerifolium

- Slave River, and Athabasca.

(

Lonicera parviflora

- Lake Winipeg.

ciliata - - -

- Fort William.

Gentiana amar

csrulea - - -

- Ditto.

■

Linnaja borealis - - -

- Missinippi River.

] i

RuBlACEiE.

Apocynum rosi

■

Galium boreale - - -

- Saskatchewan and Missinippi,

f 1

Claytoni - - -

- Saskatchewan.

Bastchia canes

COMPOSITyT.

Collomia lineai

Leontodon palustre

- Thlew-e'i-choh.

Lithospermum

Bidens cernua - - .

- Saskatchewan.

1 Hy

Achillea millefolium

- Ditto, and Missinippi.

1. ^

Pyrethrum inodorum /3 -

- Gulf of Boothia.

■ Eutoca FrankI

APPENDIX.

«l

►

w-ee-choh

jrteraisia frigida -
biennis -
borealis -
j \rnica montana
Senecio aureus

palustris -

/3 congesta
Erigeron pulchellus
purpureus
Solidago virgaurea
Aster paniculatus ?
intennaria plantaginea

Campanulace*.
Campanula linirolia

Ericine^.

Ledum palustre
Arbutus alpina

uva ursi -
Andromeda tctragona
polifolia
calyculata
Rhododendron Lapponicum
Azalea procumbens

Vaccines.

Vaccinium Pennsylvanlcum
uliginosum
vitis idaea

Gaultheria procumbens

Pyrolace^e.

Chimaphila umbellata
Pyrola rotundifolia

var. y -
^ -

Gentiane^e.
Gentiana amarella -

Apocyne^.
Apocyiium rosmarinifolium

Boragine,*;.

Bastchia canescens -
Coliomia linearis -
Lithospermum paniculatum

HYDROPHYLLEiE.
Eutoca Franklinii -

^

- AthabaHca.

- Ditto.

- Thlew-ee-choh, and Gulf of Boothia.

- Thlew-ee-cboh.

- Saskatchewan. Athabasca.

- Missinippi.

- Gulf of Boothia.

- Lake Winipeg.

- Saskatchewan.

- Ditto.

- York Factory.

- Fort William. Slave Lake.

Saskatchewan.

Thlew-ce-choh.

Ditto.

Lake Winipeg.

Thlew-ee-choh.

Lake Winipeg.

Lake Superior.

Thlew-ee-choh.

Ditto.

River Winipeg.
Thlew-ee-choh.
Saskatchewan.
Lake Superior.

Canada.
Athabasca.
Saskatchewan.
Thlew-ee-choh.

York Factory.

- Saskatchewan.

Lake Winipeg.
Saskatchewan.
Lake Winipeg.

Saskatchewan

872

VI'I'KNDIX.

Srn(»PHUi,\HiNi;.n,
I'odicularis liirsuta

- Thiew iT-»li(.h

jL AlnuB glntii
E Populu.i tre

Veronica peregrina

- Saskatchewan.

K

iJollinsia parviflora - - -

- Lake Winipcg.

K, Urtica graci

KhINAN'I'HACE/E .

fc

Kuphrasia oflicinalis

- Saskatchewan.

^L Juniperusp

Melainpyriun lineare

- Ditto.

^B|_

Castcllfja scptcntrionalis -

- NVinipeg and Slave l-iikrs '

^p'

PrIMULACEyE.

H Sisyrinchiui

Mcnyanthes trifoliata

- Lake W inipeg

w

Primula pusilla ...

- Lake Superior.

■ llabenaria r

Trientalis Americana

- Saskatchewan

m ^

Lysimachia thyrsiflora

- Ditto.

W Neottia ccrn

PliUMBAGINE/E,

Cypripedium
F^ Calypso bore

Statice Armeria _ - -

- Thlew-ee-choh, and GiilC of Rftulln <

E ^

POLVr.ONE^.

K Tofieldia pal

Polygonum aviculare

- Athabasca.

K

hydropiper

h. var. cglandulosum -

- Saskatchewan.

- Ditto.

Allium schsen

Persicaria

- Athabasca.

>

Oxyria reniformis - - -
CHENOPODEiE.

- Thlew-ee-choh.

Smilacina ste
J Cai

Rlitum capitatum - - .

- Lake Winipeg, and Atlinl)asiM

;

Chenopodium glaucum
album

- Athabasca.

- Saskatchewan.

Lilium philad

Atriplex litloralis - - -

- Athaliasca

Erythronium

Lophanthus anisatus

- Saskatchewan.

1

LaBIAT/E.

B .VIopecurus ai

Stachys palustris - - -

- Saskatchewan.

i

Dracocephalum parviflorum

- Lake Winipeg.

; (arex ?

Thymele^,

^

Oomandra umbellata

- Saskatchewan.

Nephrodium 1

EmPI TRE/E.

Hiquisctum syl

Empetruni nigrum . - -

- Thlew-ee-choh.

Marchantia pc
llydrium auri

HVDROLACEJE.

Diapensia Lapponica ' -

- Thlew-ee-choh.

Amentace^,

Salix arctica _ _ _

- Thlew-oe-choh. tiull <»l Boolhia

.

cordifolia? _ - -

- Thlew-ee-choh.

*

reticulata - - _

- Gulf of Boothia.

hcrbacea - - -

- Thlew-ee-choh.

Uetula glandulosa •

- Ditto.

APPENDIX.

S73

AinuB ghitinosa
I'opiiluH trepida

(Iktkkk.
Urtica gracilin

Jiiniperus prostrata

iRIDEyR.

Sisyrinchium anceps

OrCHIDEvK.

Ilabenaria rotundirolia

bracteata
Neottia cernua
Cypripedium parviflurum -
Calypso borealis

MeLANTHACEjE.
Tofieldia palustris -

ASPHODELE.^,.
Allium scheenoprasum

SmILACE.!^.

Smilacina stellata

Canadensis

LiLlACEiE.

Liliuni philadelphicum
Erythronium lanceolatum -

GRAMlNEiE.
Alopecurus aristiilatus

Cyperacf.^..
Carex ? - - -

FiLICES.

I Nephrodium fragrans
Kquisctum sylvaticum
? Marchaiitia polymorpha -
f llydriuni auriscalpiim

Naskatchc van.
Ditto.

Lake Winipcg.
Lako Winipeg.
lake Winippg.

Saskatchewan.
Lake Winipeg.
Athabasca.
Lake Winipeg.
Fort William.

Lake Winipeg.

- Saskatchewan.

Lake Winipeg.
Ditto.

Saskatchewan. Portage la Loche.
Lake Superior.

- Saskatchewan.

- Lake Winipeg. Saskatchewan.

Lake Superior.
York Factory.
York Factory.
Lake Superior.

1)11 Ht

Hi

V

I

IH

771

APPENDIX.

No. 111.

tribiition
under v\h
but the III
was prono

¥

ARTICLLATA.

Vatahfjue of Arachnida and Insects, vollecled hy Mr. King, Suryton and Sntu
ralist to the Expedition. By J. G. Cuiluren, F.R.SS. London and Edinburgh
F.L.S. &c.

The climate and the peculiar circumstances of the expedition necessarily limit
the insects collected during Captain Back's journey, to a very small number. The
most abundant belong to Latreille's third Order of the class, Parasita (Anoplura,
Leach), many of the individuals of which, being the companions and consoquenrc
of poverty and filth, are regarded in general rather as objects of disgust than of
attraction. From this cause, and perhaps, too, from their minuteness, these
insects have hitherto excited less attention amongst naturalists than their singular,
and 1 may say beautiful, forms and structure deserve ; although Redi, so long ago
as 1(588, wrote on the subject, and published no less than forty figures, such as
they are (including five Acari), of Pediculi and Pulices, infesting mammalia and
birds. ♦ Since his time, they have been more or less observed by Linnxus, Geof-
' , Degeer, Scopoli, Schranke, Latreille, and others, and more especially by
ch and Nitzsch ; to the last of whom we are chiefly indebted for a general and
,, ;tty complete syaic'iatic arrangement of these tiny creatures ; f but it is to he
regretted that, with respect to species, he has merely given a list of names, ami
most frequently even without reference to any description or figure of any other
author. The posthumous work of Lyonet, published by De Haan \, contains de-
scriptions, accompanied by pretty good, uncoloured figures of a few of these para-
sites ; and Panzer S has given some tolerable coloured ones of some others ; but
these collectively amount to a very small proportion of the existing species ; and,
as to the figures to be found in the works of the older authors, they are in general
almost useless. Very lately a valuable paper on three species of Philopteri, found
on the albatross (Dismedea exulans, Linn.), has been published by M. Leon Du-
four, in the Annales de la Soci^ti* Entomologique de France.**

In the other Orders, the catalogue of arctic Insects, collected in the late expedi-
tion, is very small, containing, of perfect insects, only one species respectively of
the Coleopterous, Orthopterous, and Hymenopterous Orders ; together with one
larva of some individual belonging to the Coleoptera : to these are to be added fivo
species of the Class Arachnida, and one Intestinal Worm. Rut, if the present coii-

' E^perienze intorno alia Generazione dcgl' Insetti.

f Die Familien und Gattungen der Thicrinsekten :— Magazin dcr Rnlomologie (von Oer t
mar und Zincken), vol. iii. p. 26L !;

\ Rechcrches sur I'AnMomie, et ies Metamorphoiies de diff^rentes Fsperes d'Insectes *
Paris, 1832.

§ Deutschlands Insekten.
** Vol. iv. p. 669. pi. 21. fig. 1-4.

Obs. Tl

♦he spirit

1. DVSDEI

The cha
of D. ereth
withstand!
Hahn's spi

2. Theridi

Villosura
dique obsit
teris brevic

This spe<
gultatum (|
have namei

2. Tetragp

4. Thomisc

Fuscus : :
dibus ferru
secundo, et
transverse r
tremque fre

5. Thomisui

Glaber : i
coronaeque <
validis, plus
tarsis subtui

This sped
the abdomei
jecting lobe;
that the ma!<
and colour, i
over, Hahn
front of the
animal show
cies, are sup

M'l'ENDIX.

£73

iribution to tliiH Itraiuh of natural history l)c inconsiderable, we must rpmemltcr
under what circninstances it was formed ; and that it is not the extent ol" the gilt,
but the liberal spirit of the giver, that deserves our gratitude ; the widow's mile
was pronounced to be more than all the rest.

I

Class ARACHNID A.

Obs. The spiders were examined immediately after they had been removed from
♦he spirit in which they were preserved.

1 . Dysdera erethryna ? Walck.

Hahn, Arachniden, vol. i. p. 7. pi. I. f. 3.

The characters of this spider so nearly agree with Uahn's figure and description
of D. erethryna, that I have little hesitation in referring il to that species, not-
withstanding the great distance, in point of locality, between the two individuals.
Hahn's spider is found in Spain, France, and Germany.

2. Theridion Backii (n. s.), Noh.

Villosum ; tborace subcirculari, rufo : pedibus rufis, fusco annulatis, setisque un-
dique obsilis : pari primo, secundo, ct quarto longioribus, subxqualibus ; tertio cae-
teris breviori : abdomine globoso, saturate fusco.

This species has considerable resemblance to the female of Hahn's T. quadri-
giiltatum (pi. 21. f. 64.), but is larger, and in other respects decidedly distinct. 1
have named it in honour of Captain Back.

2. Tetraonatha extensa (var.), Walck.

Schceff. Icon. Insect, pi. \l'A. f. 0.

4. Thomisi-8 borealis (n. a.), Nob.

Fuscus : mandibulis validis, glabris : tborace subcylindrico, convexo, glabro : pe-
dibus ferrugineis, subelongatis, subvillosis, spinisque raris rounitis; pari primo,
secundo, et quarto subsequalibus, tertio ceteris breviori : eute abdominis ovati
transverse rugosd, granulosa, pilisque raris, albido-flavis tect4 ^ his ad anum ven-
tremque frcqueutioribus.

5. Thomisus corona (n. s.), Nob.

Glaber : thorace subcirculari, subfusco, fascid medid albida ad frontem latiori,
roronxque efligiem simulante : mandibulis albidis : pedum pari primo et secundo
validis, plus duplo cxteris majoribus ; tertio breviori : feraoribus subpubescentibus ;
tarsis subtus setosis, setis discretis, biseriatim positis : addomine globoso, albido.

This species agrees very nearly with Hahn's T/i. diadema, except in the form of
the abdomen, v/hich in the latter is angular, having posteriorly on each side a pro-
jecting lobe; whilst in Th. corona it is globular. Since Hahn expressly states
that the male, although much smaller, exactly resembles the female, both in form
and colour, the difference between his specimen and ours cannot be sexual. More-
over, Hahn takes no notice of the singular, white, coronet-shaped mark in the
front of the head, in the upper projecting part of which the brilliant eyes of the
animal show like the jewels of a diadem. The four lateral eyes, as in Hahn's spe-
cies, are supported on little projecting knobs.

I

'k

18 •

«1li

A I' PEN nix.

ClaH« INSECTA.

Order "arasita, Latr. (Anopldr-*;, Leurk.)

(ienuH Piin,opTKRtis, Nit/Koli. {Pedirulus. Linn. Fabric
Nirmus, Hermann, OirerH, Leach.)

Hirinus, Dei^ecr

Subgenus DocnpnoRis, Nitzsch.

1. D. communis, Nilzsck. I'edic. eral)eri7,ic, Fafir.

Degecr, vol. vii. pi. 1. f. 9. ; Panzer, DeutHch. fnsek. 51. 'ill
Found on ibe Snow-bird, Cbatterer, .lud Cirosbeak. Long. ,',„ poll.

2. D. platyrlijncbus Nilz. ! Pedic. hu'matopus, Scopoli't

Found on a Hawk, bul the specicH not mentioned. Long. ■~^. poll.

I believe this species to lie identical willi Nitsch's I'latt/r/ii/i'citiSy'lhe P. ha-ma
/opM,« of Seopoli (Ent. Carniol. p. 3S1.), as it aj;rees in a!! respects with (he lalicr
author's descriptiou of that insect, exci pt in wanting the dorsal line on each side
of the abdomen. Our specimen very closely resembles that of the Ninmis nisi, in
the collection in the Kritish Museum. Nitzsch's insect is stated to have been ibuiiil
on the Falcu paliimltarius.

3. D. auritus, A^mA. Pedic. annti, Scop. Var. .^

Dilntt Tulvus : eapite triangulari, glabro, nitido, apice subobtuso : temporihus ro-
tundatis: abdomine ovato, subpiloso, linell dorsal i iiicurvatA, nigrd : pedibus aiiticis
antcnnis vix longioiMbus. Long ^'^ poll.

Found on the Picus auratys.

This species so much resembles that described by Schrank (Faun. Boic), and
referred by him to P. auritus of Scopoli, wl»o found it on the Pirns majin-, and P.
marlu.1, that I have thought it right to adopt bis name, but without asserting their
identity.

4. D. occllatus, Nitzsch. De Haan. Pedic. ocellatns. Scop.

Lyonet, pi. 5. f. 3. '
Found on the Corvus corax. Long. -^ poll.

The British specimens in tho Museum collection agree perfectly with the arctii
species.

According to Scopoli and Nitzsch, it is also found on the Corvus corontr.

Subgenus Nikmus, Nitzsch.

5. N. aflinis (n. s.), Noft.

Albidus •, capita triangular!, subfusco, glabro, nitido, apice rotundato : abdomine
ovato, piloso, fasciis fuscis medio interruptis : antennis, thorace, pedibusque sub-
fuscis. Ijong. -^ poll.

Found on the Tetrao saliceti, and Ptarmigan.

This species differs from Lyonet's figure and description of the " Pou de cog de
bruyitre," (which his editor, De Haan, refers to the Nirmus camet^tus of Nitzsch),
principally in the form of the transverse dorsal bands, which in our int ect extend on
each side, from near the middle of the back to the sides, but in Lyonet's present a

' Rerhprrhcs, elc, ouviage posthumc, public par Dc Haan. Paris, 1832.

arctiu

I

Ari'ENnix.

'iVi

hilurcate figure, the hranchcs of the fork tormiiialin^ long berure they reach the
margin ; the hitter \h bum. Jed by a darker line from the thorax to the anuH.

'■>. N. testndinarius (n. ».), So//.

FiiNniR: cajiito trinn|;iilari, ^lab^o, nil. do, npire teinporihnBf|iic rotimdatin: ab-
• loinine clii|iti('o, suii|iiluNO, pills ad aiiuin conrertiorilms : seginontorum dorHalimn
iiittiris, lineAque inedi(\ Inngitiidlnali albidis: pedibiiH Kiii)rii8ciM. Lung. |- poll.

Found on the Curlew.

7. N. biscriatus (n. ».), Nof>.

Capite gl.ibro, fulvo, triangularl, apice ohtuso, temporihus rotiindatis; thnrace
pedibusqiie concoloribuH, illo llneil niedi.A, albidd : abdominc ovato, subpiloso, albido,
iriQculia lalcralibiis fulvis, biHeriatiin positis, exterioribua inajoribus. Long, ^h
poll.

Also found oil the Curlew, and, as Tar as I can f nd, hitherto undescribed.

Subgenus LiruiRts, Nitzsch.

{Ornithobius, Leach.)

8. L. jejunus, Nitzch,

Pedic. aiiseris, Linn, Fahr. "

Redi, Expcr. tab. 10. lig. dextra.
Found on the Gray Goose. Long. JJ-j poll.

This species dillers from the parasite of the Domestic (loose in the British museum
collection; I i t .ippears to be identical with another species in the same collection,
to which neither name nor habitat is aHixed.

Subgenus GoMODES, Nitzsch.

9. G. chelicornis, Nitzsch.

Lyon. pi. 4. f. 7.
Found on the Tetrao saliceti. Long. '^, lat. abdom. ,.',', poll.

Genus Liothei'm, Nitzsch.

{Pediculus, Linn. Fabr. Ricinus, Degeer, Latreille. Nirmus, Hermann, Olfers,

Leach.)

Subgenus CoLPOcEPHALum, Nitzsch.

10. C. subaequale, Nitzsch.

Lyon. pi. 4. fig. 5.
Found on the Corvus corax. Long. — poll.

Subgenus Physostomum, Nitzsch.

n. P. Bulphureum, Nitzsch? Pediculus dolicocephalus, Scopoli?

Albus : toto corpore glabro : capite oblongo, apice rotundato : abdomine elliptico,
subtus marginato; maculis frontalibus, vitt&que dorsali sanguineis. Long. |f; poll.
Found on the Snow-bird.

12. P. marginatum (n. b.), Nob.

Albidus : capite oblongo, fusco maculato, apice obtuso : thorace abdomineque
marginatis, line&que fusc^ circumdatis : pedibus albidis. Long, ff; poll.

Except in size and colour, this species very much resembles Degeer's Ricin du
Pinqon.

(

:ti!

I !^ ' \

278

APPENDIX.

Order COLEOPTERA

BosTRicJit's typographus, Fahr.

Var. h. corpore toto pallidfc testaceo." Gyllen.
Insect. Sueci., torn. i. pars 3. p. 351.
From dried Pine.

'i. Larva — incerta; sedis; — an Dmc**: cujusdam ?

I r.m induced to think it probable that this may be the larva of a Dircaea [Xyliio,
Paykull), from its almost perfect accordance with Mr. W. S. Macleay's description
of tlie thysanurii'orm larva of the Xylita buprestoides, (Horse Entomologicae, note,
p. 461.) As Mr. Macleay's work is unfortunately very rare, it may be useful to
transcribe his description : — " Larva, whitish, elongate, scaly, with few hairs,
except about the last segment of the abdomen ; body thickest at the middle and tail,
upper side rather convex, under concave; head semiglobular, with vestige of eyes;
antennae triarticulate, short, with the first joints greatest; mandibles short, strong,
and sharr ; maxillary palpi acute at point, and labial excessively minute ; second
segment of the body large, subthoraciform, and composed apparently of two seg-
ments ; anterior feet large, compressed, hooked, extending nearly to the top of the
head ; the two posterior pairs of the same shape, but so short as scarcely to reach
beyond the coxa of the first pair, besides being in some measure hid in the concavity
of the body ; the third segment of the body is shortest, and the others lengthen gra-
dually to the r2th, which is convex, and marked with strongly impressed points;
but the singular part of the body is the tail, or 13th segment, at the base of which
is the anal aperture : this segment is slightly convex above, and ilattish below, but
armed at the extremity with two sharp horny appendages, curved upwards." —
Macleay's larva was found, together with the perfect insect, in the solid wood o(
an old oak in Hampshire, by Mr. Samouelle.

The above description applies to our larva, except that its colour is light yellowish
brown, and the feet equal; and, in addition to the horny appendages at the extre-
mity, the two caudal processes and the posterior margin of the last or anal segment,
are armed with similar sharp horny spines.

Length 0.45 in.

Found in dried Pine.

Order ORTHOPTERA.

AcRiDiuM sulphureum. Pal. de Beauv.

Palis, de Beauv. Ins., rec. en Afr. et Am. p. 145.

Orthopt. pi. 4. f. 2.
Palisot du Beauvais' insect is from Virginia.

Order HYMENOPTERA.
Formica herculeana, Linn.

Var. thorace nigro, Shucl. M. S.

Linn. Faun. Suec. p. 42G. No. 1720.

My friend Mr. Shuckard, who is intimately acquainted with this Order, and ex-
amined this species at my request, observes :—" The identity of Captain Backs
species with the F. herculeana of Linnxns, is interesting, from its being the first
proof I am acquainted with, of the .same species of hymcnopterous insect inhabitini;
both the European and American (onlinents. These ants are, indeed, smaller than
the European species; but climate is well known to affect dcvelopmnits "

Ascaris
1 cannoti
like Rudol

APPENDIX.

279

RADIATA.

Class Intestina {Entuzoa, Rudulphi).

Ascaris

..;>

1 canaot satisractorily refer this to any described species. It seems not very un-
like Rudolphi's A. ctenata. No account is given of its habitat.

No. IV.
GEOLOGICAL NOTICE

ON THE NEW COUNTRY PASSED OVER BY CAPTAIN BACK DURING HIS LATE

EXPEDITION.

By William Henry Fitton, M.D. F.R.S. G.S. &c.

I

The country near the entrance of Slave River into Great Slave Lake, where the
route of Captain Back struck off, has been described by Dr. Richardson, in his va-
luable geological appendices to the first and second journeys of Captain Sir John
Franklin. The following observations have been drawn up, principally, from the
notes taken by Captain Back himself in the course of his arduous journey, from that
point to the sea, aided by an examination of the specimens which he brought to
England. In arranging them in the order of the route, I have adhered, as far as
possible, to the original words : —

" On quitting Fort Resolution (a station of the Hudson's Bay Company, near the
mouth of the Slave River), we went through some of the winding channels formed
by the numerous islandsinthe Delta ofSlave River; and, having passed Stony Island,
which, as Dr. Richardson remarks in the appendix to Franklin's first journey,
is a naked mass of red granite, fifty or sixty feet high, precipitous on the north side,
and lying near the junction of the flat limestone strata with the primitive rocks.
We then kept along the low and swampy shore, thickly matted with drift-wood, and
made for a jutting elevation, called Rocky Point, where the lake trends to the east-
ward, and struck ofTin a northerly direction towards a distant cluster of islands ou
the south of Simpson's Group, which are mostly granitic, and composed of reddish
felspar, quartz, ajii mica. The more northern of these islands attain a greater ele-
vation, from 200 to 1000 feet, resembling the bluff and broken features of those to
the westward, near the " Gros-cap" of Mackenzie, but still more like the red granite
hills of Fort Chipewyan and upper part of the Slave River. They are very unlike
the low swampy limestone tracts which we had left ; and almost totally destitute of
the drift-timber piled in such immense quantities about Fort Resolution and the
more western shores of the lake.

" The clear green north-eastern waters here contrast strongly with the turbid yel-
low streams of the Great SlaveLake, hurrying rapidly tow.^rds the Mackenzie. Co-
nical ii )latcd hills are in various places separated by narrow passages from the largrr

280

APPENDIX.

islands, whose pictnresque outlines, rent into vast chasms and fissures, and rising to
upwards of 1200 feet, are very imposing.

'* Near to the most northern of this chain of islands, Point Keith projects from
the eastern main ; and the channel, between that point and the northern shore of the
lake, is interrupted by an island called EM-thenueh, * or Reindeer Island, remar-
kable for its table-land ; with perpendicular clift's resting on sloping and irregular
declivities, which gradually descend to the water's edge." Captain Back remarks.,
that a point which forms the western extremity of a small bay, in this part of the
lake, consists of a mass of boulders, cemented into a kind of puddingstone by yellow-
ish and indurated clay, to a height of from six to forty feet : the subjacent rocks, as
they receded from the lake, acquiring an altitude between 1400 and 2000 feet.

The point which we next rounded was steep and perpendicular; and from it the
natives obtain a variegated marl, of a greenish gray colour, of which they make their
calumets and pipes. A similar substance, of a reddish tint, and also one of a pure
white, both admitting of a high polish, are found beyond the western limits of the
lake.

Proceeding to the north and east, along that portion of the lake which separates
the long island of Petli-the-nu eh from the northern main, the island itself has an
imposing appearance ; its rocks, of the trap formation, exhibiting long lines of mural
precipices, resting one upon another, and capped by even and round eminences
thinly clad with meagre pines. " It was Impossible to look at them without being
forcibly reminded of the same appearances, but without trees, seen on a former oc-
casion between the Coppermine River and Point Barrow, where the rocks are de-
scribed by Dr Richardson fas consisting of clinkstone, porphyry, and earthy green
stone, which extended to the mouth of Wenzel's River." And, from this resemblance,
Captain Back conjectures that the trap formation may probably run in a line almost
due south to Great Slave Lake, where it is lost in the granitic district occupying an
extensive range to and beyond Chipewyan.

But, though the trap formation seems to predominate in Peth-the-nu-eh, the sped
mens from that side of the island which forms the shore of Christie's Bay are com-
posed of magnesian limestone, like that of Dease's iliver, and many other places
mentioned by Dr. Richardson. ^

The main shore of the lake on the north and west of Peth-the-nu-eh is also moun-
tainous and rocky, consisting chiefly of gneiss and porphyry. At a contrai .ed part
of the channel, called by the natives Tal-thel-leh, it is said never to freeze ; and this
Captain Back's experience proved to be the case during two winters. On the east
of this place, an island was seen, displaying a barren and rounded outline to the
north, but on the south distinctly columnar.

The altitude of the north shore of the lake varies but little thence to the point
called by the natives " The Mountain;" — so named, however, not from any remark-
able prominence, but ♦" flistinguish the spot where the natives leave their canoes
when striking into the interior. From the " mountain," the opposite peninsula of
(•ahhooa-tchel-la (or Rabbit Point), has a bold and picturesque appearance, being
more than 2000 feet high, almost perpendicular, and evidently a continuation of the
I, trap) formation of Peth-the-nu-eh, from which it is separated on the south and west
by an opening leading to Christie's Bay. The shores of the eastern part of the lake,

' This lililu island is not named in tlie niai). It is immediately on ihe south of the dale
" August 14th," and south-west of the prolonged extremity of Pe//t-the-nu-eh. It is to he
observed, that there is a small group in the lake also c«lled " Reindeer Islands," noriii ol
ilio entrance of Slave River, and about north west of Rocky Point.

t Franklin's First Voyatje, Appendix, p. 530.

^ Appendix to Frnnklin's Socoiid Voyage, p. xiv.

as they apprJ
being round-l
.liffy, and alJ
hay on the nl
passed, but i

The speciiJ
liiderable altl
composed of
ihe beach wa
slightly efter]
chalcedony,
ilark gray ceil
The sandy I
broad, and hi
ilong the bad
l-'vel ; and in
riiiing gradua
IS if the wate
upper of the e
immediate
Iliver and the
tlie country is
lelspar and la
lands may be
i.-i.-^umes a mo
Mattered clur
and there it i
The countr;
\ylmer, is cl
1 uvered with 1
In these lak
masses of grai
'if rock. Sin
journey of Sii
linuation of t
along the bea(
extremity of 1
north-west, ai
the Thlew-ee
Sussex Lali
of it is a low I
the escape ot
descent that \
, the surface ol
the dividing I
north-west ; £
III sitii : — ill
lar cliffs, abo
.\bout five
«ay trans ver
'inning east
inks begin

APPENDIX.

'281

Ciinoes
sula ul'

Jieini;

1)1' till;
id wes(

lake,

as they approach each other, still retain their distinctive characters : that on the north
being round-backed and gray, with a few trees; l)ut that to the south precipitous,
1 lilFy, and almost barren. The rocks, enclosing the east end of the lake, around the
bay on the north of which Fort Reliance was placed, are very like those already
passed, but more acclivitous.

The specimens from Fort Reliance (which are marked " undulating rocks of con-
siderable altitude") consist of granite, having somewhat the aspect of sienite, but
composed of reddish felspar, brown mica in small proportion, and gray quartz. On
the beach was found a mass of conglomerate of flint pebbles, cemented by sand and
slightly eft'ervescent matter. The pebbles, loose on the shore hereabouts, consist of
i.halcedony, quartz, flinty slate, a conglomerate of red jasper pebbles in a siliceous
ilarkgray cement, with fragments of jasper of various hues, inclining to brown.

The sandy space, where the house, or" Fort," was erected, was about three miles
broad, and hemmed in, on the east and west, by two rivers, which ran respectively
niong the bases of parallel ranges of gran'tic hills. The sand was comparatively
iHvel ; and in the space of half a mile were two more platforms, with embankments
rising gradually towards the rocky valleys which led to the barren lands. It seemed
IS if the water of the Great Slave Lake had once been so high as to have had the
upper of the embankments for its boundary, and had since subsided.

Immediately on the north of the "Fort," including the space between Hoarfrost
lliver and the Ah-hel-desseh (the stream leading from Slave Lake to Artillery Lake),
the country is mountainous, and consist for the greater part of granite, in which red
lelspar and large plates of mica are conspicuous. The ascent here towards the barren
lands may be taken at 1400 feet. On the north, along Art Uery Lake, the country
issumes a more open aspect, with sloping moss covered hills, on which are rarely
M altered clumps of wood ; but in latitude 63° 15' N. the pine disappears altogether,
and there it is that the "barren lands" fairly commence.

The country from Artillery Lake to Clinton-Colden Lake, and thence to Lake
\ylmer, is characterised by the small altitude of the hills, which are more or less
lovered with large boulders of granite, and decline to the water's edge.

In these lakes islands are numerous; many of them consisting of great unbroken
masses of granite, on the summits of which are huge stones and splintered fragments
'il rock. Similar boulders had been observed near Fort Enterprise during the lirst
journey of Sir John Franklin, where, in fact, the height of land seems to be a con-
tinuation of this tract, and to be of the same character. Sand was seen at first
tloug the beach, but soon rising into banks and mounds : and, Hnally, at the northern
extremity of Lake Aylmer, forming hills of some magnitude, which decline to the
aorth-west, and indicate the height of land that feeds Sussex Lake, — the source of
tlie Thlew-ee-ch(!-dezeth.

Sussex Lake is small, and encompassed by low shelving declivities. To the west
«f it is a low ridge of sandhills, which terminate abruptly, and form a passage for
ilie escape of the waters towards the north. \Vithin a mile of the lake is a slight
descent that way, forming a shallow rapid only a mile distant from Lake Aylmer, —
the surface of which lake may be considered as three feet below the highest part of
the dividing land. The river then winds its way through sand-hills, declining to the
iiorth-west ; and, about four miles down the stream, )>asses the first rocks of gneiss
'II situ : — they havsan even and tabular surface ; and arc broken into perpendicu
l<ir cliffs, about Hve feet high, which fall to the east.

.\bout five and twenty miles on the north-east of Lake Aylmer, the river cuts its
«ay transversely, but without ciianging its direction, through a range of mountains
winning east and we.st, and then becomes very much iuterrupied by rapids. Sand
aiiks begin to ajipear again, and hills with "long sloping declivities. " partially

h

li

•282

APPENDIX.

covered with the usual blocks of granite ; — till within sixty miles of Bathurst'H Inlet
latitude 65* 40', longitude IOC" 35', where a barrier of mountains, probably conti-
nuous with the ranges to the east of that inlet, turns the river away to the east at an
acute angle, for about thirty miles." Lake Beechey occupies the bend produced by
this obstruction. The rocks around it were very rugged and desolate ;• but, as the
expedition was at this time passing rapidly down the stream, no specimens were
obtained. Some cascades, a mile and a half long and sixty feet in descent, termi-
uated the lake ; and then the river followeu the windings of a group of sand-hills,
many of which were conical and partly covered with grass.

Three isolated mountains of gneiss were seen about forty miles from the east end
of Lake Beechey ; and a few miles lower down, on the opposite side to these moun-
tains, is the ingress of Baillie's River. The country now became low, flat, and very
sandy, with an occasional smooth hill rent into watercourses ; and uot more tlian
half a mile from earh other, were the obtuse and rounded tops of a few dark rocks,
that peeped above aud chequered the surface of the yellow sand. It then changed
to a mass of rocks (Hawk Rapid), between which the current ran with extreme
\ iolence, but without much change of general direction. The specimens from this
])lace consist of reddish granitic compound approaching to gneiss.

Beyond these rapids, several rivers joined from both sides, and the main stream
expanded into an extensive sheet of water (Lake Pelly), with clear horizons at dif.
terent points of the compass. There were here many islands ; and the ridges and
cones of sand of which they were composed were not only of considerable height,
but most singularly and remarkably crowned with immense granite boulders, gra\
with lichen.

A succession of dangerous falls and rapids follows this series of lakes, the courst
of which is very tortuous; but the main direction, from the beginning of Lake Felly
fo Lake Macdougal, is nearly from west to east. At Rock Rapid, in latitude Ga"
54' 18'', longitude 9F» 10' V, the river bursts with fury between four mountains ol
reddish granite, and turns short to the north.

The stream now became from half a mile to a mile in width, with fearful rapids
and whirlpools ; and the adjoining country was far more rugged and mountainous
tiian before. The rocks were evidently granitic ; but no specimens were collected,
as the party were carried down the stream in their boat.

Having passed through another small lake, or expansion of the river, much im-
peded by ice, the stream turned again to the east, and led to a steep fall, where Es-
quimaux were found who had never seen Europeans.

From about the point called Wolf-Fall, the course of the river is nearly from
south-west to north-east ; and, after an abrupt and remarlable elbow on the north
of Mount Meadowbank, it runs in the bottom of a trough, or deep valley, to its
junction with the sea.

The object of the expedition having rendered it necessary that the party should
proceed in their boat on arriving at the sea, very few specimens or notes descriptive
of the rocks were obtained in the remotest part of the route. The only specimens
are from a " bluff" ( Pr int Backhouse) on the north-west of Victoria Headland, wliicli
consist of reddish gratite j and from another bluff beneath Point Beaufort, composed
of a similar rock of a gray colour ;— both on the eastern coast of the inlet, wliicli
forms the estuary of the T' !ew-ee-clioh-dezeth.

* In many places, Captain Back observes, (he ruggedness of their nspt-cl reminded him o(
thai of the lava round Vesuvius.

ai

The new
sea in the f
as appears
have been
indicates a
rareous anc
lain Back's
111' Great S
least, of th
posed of tr
niggfcd groi
much in
uarrative, a
ID the estua

On a gen(
uiarked that
if Slave La
(larallel, and
made for the
are : 1. Th
aorth-wester
liaillie's Riv
—and, more
I. Slave Lak
river which c
eighty-five E
reckoning fr
uorth of Mou
lorm line fro
Lake, is mor

Again, the
likewise, in t
Ajimer east'
nearly an hu
nearly the sa
nect Lake P
lakes of very
nevertheless.

It is almos
beenf'-'-'l,
less regular (
lure. The (
east, from th
course of Gn

* In'-tead ol
l:as bee.i sug{
discoverer.

■f This, Dr.
iransilion stra
extended. It
'nd on tlie Co

APPENDIX.

na

it's Inlet,
bly conti-
^ast at an
duced by
ut, as the
lens were
nt, tenni-
^and-hills,

e east end
686 raoun-
, and very
more tlian
irk rocks,
a changed
h extreme
I tVnm this

lin stream ,
ons at dil'>
ridges and
lie height,
ders, gra\

, the courst !
LakePelly *
latitude Ga" R
ountains of r

irful rapids

lountainous

collected,

much im-
where Es-

learly Irom

|n the north

illey, to its

arty should
lescriptive

specimens
land, which
\, conjposftil

let, whicli

lindud him o(

The new ground therefore explored by Captain Back, from Slave Kiver to the
sea in the parallel of 61° 10', with only two or three exceptions, is composed, so tar
a8 appears from his notes and speciments, of primitive rocks ; a result which might
have been expected from the description of the country previously known, whicli
iodicates a distinct line of boundary, in the north-east of Americs , between the cal-
careous and primitive tracts ; the latter including the space traversed during Cap-
lain Back's late expedition. The exceptions are: — 1. A portion of the north-east
u( Great Slave Lake,— including the long island of Peth-the-nu-eh, and one, at
least, of the smaller islands adjacent to it, which Captain Back describes as com-
posed of trap rocks, but which include also strata of limestone. 2. Perhaps, the
nigged ground about Lake Beechey? which, from the description, appears to difler
much in aspect from the primitive country. 3. Limestone is mentioned in the
narrative, as having been found in small fragments, on the shore of Montreal island,
ID the estuary of the Thiew-ee-choh-dezeth.*

On a general view of the map of Ca itain Back's late expedition, it may be re-
marked that the river is obviously divided into three portions (and the eastern part
if Slave Lake itself may perhaps be considered as resembling them), all nearly
iiarallel, and lying in a direction from about soutli-west to north-east, allowance being
made for the convergence of the meridians in those high latitudes. These portions
are : 1. The Thlew-ee-choh-dezeth, from its source in Sussex Lake, to the head or
north-western extremity of Lake Beechey. 2. From the curve a little eastward of
Baillie's River, to the north-western extremity of Lake Pelly. 3. From Wolf Fall,
—and, more distinctly, from the rapids north of Mount Meadowbank, to the sea.
\. Slave Lake itself, from the entrance of Slave River to Fort Reliance,^and the
river which connects it with Artillery Lake. The first of these divisions being about
eighty-five English miles in length; the second, nearly an hundred miles; the third,
reckoning from Wolf Rapid, about an hundred and twenty miles, — or, from the
uorth of Mount Meadowbank, more than ninety miles in length; while the less uni-
form line from Slave Lake, at the entrance of Slave River, to the head ol Artillery
Lake, is more than two hundred and fifty miles.

Again, the watercourse wh'ch unites the several portions above-mentioned has
likewise, in two cases, some approach to parallelism ; the chain of lakes, from Lake
Aylmer eastward, having a direction to the south of east, through a distance oi
nearly an hundred miles ; and that from Lake Beechey to the east of Baillie's River,
nearly the same general direction, for about eighty miles. The waters which con
nect Lake Pelly with the sinuosities about Wolf Rapid, comprehend a series of
lakes of very irregular form, and the stream which unites them is tortuous, but has,
nevertheless, a. general direction nearly from west to east.

It is almost premature to specnlate on evidence so scanty as that which has just
beenf'"'"!, but it is probable both that the parallel portions of the river, and the
less regular transverse lines which connect them, are the results of geological struc-
ture. The parallel lines along which the river makes its way towards the nortii-
■ east, from the ground dividing the water-shed at Sussex Lake, — and the general
course of Great Slave Lake thence towards the south west, mav, possibly, f be longi-

* Instead of this unwieldy name for the newly discovered stream, that of "fiacA's Rivei"

has bee.i suggested ; the most appropriate denomination, in such a case, being that of (Ik-

discoverer.
{ -} This, Dr. Richardson status, is the average diroctiou (ur, ' strike) uf the piiniitive unit
1 iransition strata, through about twelve degrees of loaisitude, over which his own journt'js

extended. It is also the direction of the strata in many of (he ranges in the British Islands,

.ind on the Couliuent of Kuioiic.

I

■i J)

!;

,

S84

APPENDIX.

tiidinal valleys between parallel ridges of small elevation, direct from south-west t«
north-east. While the rocky and elevated ground about Lake Beechey, whicl/
turns the river from its previous direction, may be a continuation of the mountainous
tract about Back's River, and on the east of Bathurst fnlet, the general course of
wliicii seems to be from the south of east towards the north of west. This also is
the direction of the range of hills, laid down during the first of Franklin's journeys'
near the Copper-mine River, about latitude 60° 32', longitude 115° to Uti* \V *
The irregular ground between those hills and Hey wood range of Captain Back ( la,
tUude 64*' 50', longitude 108°), includes the group of lakes about Point Lake
between which and Contwoy-to, or Rum Lake, is the division of the water-shed ^
which has the same general direction with the ridge or height of land tiiat divides^
Sussex Lake from Lake Aylmer, and, possibly, may be a continuation of it.

As the existence of lines of division, like those just mentioned, is one of the most"!
prominent general circumstances hitherto ascertained respecting the geology of this
part of America, I have great pleasure in subjoining the following observations from
a letter of Dr. Richardson, by whom in person many of the points in question have
been examined. Th./ will be perfectly intelligible if the reader will place before
Itira Arrowsmith's or any otli<;r good general map of North America.

"The course of the Rocky Mountains chain," Dr. Richardson states, -| "from the
Sierra of Mexico, in latitude 30°, to its termination on the coast of the Arctic Sea,
in latitude 69°, is about N. by W., with very little deviation any where. The chain
rises abruptly from a flat or very slightly inclined country, in which the great prai-
ries of the Arkansas, Missouri, and Saskatchewan are included. To the eastward
ot these prairie lands (at least N. of Lake Superior), lere is an extensive lime-
stone deposite ; and between this and the primitive zone of hills or rocks still farther
east'' — (to which may now be added the greater part, if not the whole, of the tract ,
explored by Captain Back), "a series of rivers and lakes, occupying the line of "
junction, and extending from the Lake of the Woods to the Arctic Sea.'

" It is to be noticed, however, that although the lakes on this line almost always ;
have primitive rocks on the east side, and limestone on the west, the connecting ;
rivers generally run wholly in one formation or in the other. Thus, the River \Vi- '
nipeg flows, through primitive rocks; the edge of the limestone being a short way
to the westward. We can trace the formation up the east side of Lake Winipegto '
Norway Point, and from thence straight to Beaver Lake ; the Saskatchewan to the ,
westward flowing over limestone, which is close to the primitive strata in Beaver
Lake. The Missinippi or Churchill River :^ traverses primitive rocks."

" W^e lose the primitive rocks at He la Crosse, where there is limestone ; and at

ai

portage la
Clear-water
ID the Atha
Athabasca I
flows someti
iween the tw
nite.

" By carry
he seen that
itard, inclim
Peace River,
Lake. I h
distance; bu
river, to cut
bd crossed
teen separat
ihe chain: — i

" I cannot,
ihe country i
primitive hil
journey), lie
'and not a 40
extend to the
There are
Bay, and aisc

"All the I

eastern prii
that part of tl

The specin
rdute which |
Dr. Richardsi
join a genera
luentsof a whi
IVinipeg, ver
years ago (ii:
a spot more t

It

* In (he last of the maps annexed to Franklin's tirst journey, the direction ascribed to
this rankle, Dr. Richardson informs me. is erroneous. It is there described as consisting of
" hills runninfj in mountain ranges (0 the South (instead of North] West ; clay slate, willi
peaks of from 1,200 to 1,500 feet iiigli."
t MS. letter, March 28. 1836.

^ Dr. Richardson remarks, thai " The character of this river is precisely similar to that of
the Thelw-ee-cho-dezeth : a st'rics of lake-like and many-armed dilatations, connected by
narrow rocky rapids, sometimes one, sometimes many, separated by high rocky islands
There are some curious islands in the Missinippi, consisting of large granite boulders, or
rounded masses, piled one above the other to a great height; and on their upper points,
where they are out of the reach of the waves, they are hoary with lichens. The water
immediately surrounding these islands is many fathoms deep ; and on looking at them, 1
was inclined to think that th soft parts of a granite rock had weathered away, and left these
rounded and harder tnasses so piled up." .

• The freqi
•Vmerica, app(
preceding exp
la be remarka
of the (compar
ihe secondary 1

f From Dr.
tast, it would
continued fron
above specifiec

" The north
rocks ; the sec
I'liain, of whicl
tast of Lake V

APPENDIX

885

uth-west t
'ey, whic
'ountaitioua
il course of
riiis also is
's journeys,'
1I6* VV.»
n Back ( la-
>int Liike;,
water-shed,;
liat divides?

lost always <

connecting ,;

iverVVi- |

short way f

rVinipeg to |

an to the |

in Beaver *

portage la Roche we cross a high sandstone ridge, covered «ith much sand.* The
Clear-water River, at the foot of this ridge, flows over limestone, which is also seen
in the Athabasca River, hut under mucli bituminous shale. On the north side of
.Athabasca Lake (or Lake of the Hills), the rocks are primitive, and the Slave River
flows sometimes through limestone, at other times over granite, and sometimes be-
iween the two. Its mouths open into Slave Lake between the limestone and gra
nite.

" By carrying the eye over the map from point to point above mentioned, it will
he seen that the^wcstern boundary of the eastern primitive rocks, as it runs north-
ward, inclines towards the Rocky Mountains. There are no prairie lands north of
Peace River, and no flat country skirting the Rocky Mountains beyond Great Slave
Lake. I have seen the Rocky Mountains only on the Mackenzie, and there from a
distance; but the great valleys seemed, as I viewed them in passing down the
river, to cut the general direction of the chain at right angles. A Canadian, who
liad crossed the mountains in the quarter I speak of, said that he travelled over tliir-
leen separate ridges. He did not, therefore, go directly across the general line of
ihe chain: — or, the valleys, that I saw, do no penetrate deep.

" 1 cannot," Dr. Richardson adds, " give any personal information respecting
ilie country to the eastward of what I have hitherto been speaking of The hi(,'li
primitive hills on the Copper-mine River (p. 5"23 of Geognostic Observations, first
jnurney), lie in ranges nearly parallel to the river, having a nor</«-west direction
and not a south-v/est, as erroneously marked in the map). These primitive rocks
extend to the Contwoy-to, or Rum Lake, and, 1 doubt not, also to Back's new River_
There are limestone deposites between the eastern primitive rocks and Hudson's
Bay, and also northward, on the Arctic Sea, where Captain Ross was.

"All the primitive rocks in that part of the country which I have called the
' eastern primitive district" are low, and do not form mountain ranges, except on
iliat part of the Copper-mine River already alluded to."

The specimens and information obtained by Captain Back, in that part of his
rdute which preceded his own discoveries, accord with the previous descriptions of
Dr. Richardson ; and as the places referred to can be but seldom visited, I shall sub-
join a general list of the specimens. Among the mo.st remarkable are several frag-
ments of a white or cream-coloured limestone from the north-western extremity of Lake
^V'inipeg, very much resembling a series presented to ihe Geological Society some
years ago (in 1823) by Dr. Bigsby, from the north-western shore of Lake Huron, —
a spot more than 600 geographical miles from Lake Winipeg.f

' The frequent occurrence and thickness of the deposils of sand in this part of North
Vmerica, appear, both from Dr. Richardson's description of tlie country, seen during ti.e
preceding expedition east of the Mackenzie, and from Captain Back's notes of his journey^
10 be remarkable. It well deserves inquiry, whether these accumulations are the* deposiio
of the (comparatively) recent seas, during their occupation of that contineul, or belong >o
ihe secondary or tertiary groups of strata.

f From Dr. Bigsby's account of the country around Lake Huron, and thence to the south-
last, it would appear that the line of division between the primary and secondary rocks, is
continued from the neighbourhood of Lake Winipeg, nearly in tfie same direction witli that
above specified, for several hundred miles : —

" The northern shore of Lake Huron, with its nearest isles, consists principally of the older
rocks; the secondary occupy the rest of the lake The iiriinilive rocks are part of a vast

liain, of which the southern portion, extending, probably uniiitcrrui)fedly, from the north and
iiist of Lake Winipeg, passes thence along to the norihtrn slioris of Laki.'s Superior. Huron.

1

1

j

i i

!

, j

1 '

1 H

^, 111

886

APPENDIX.

Having requested my friend Mr. Stokes, by whom some of Dr. Bigshy's speri
mt-nH were described, to examine thi.s part of Captain Buck's collection, I have bee4
favoured by him with the following observations ; and I hope that Mr. Stokes hiraseV
will soon lay before the (leological Society a paper, accompanied by figures i||u»
trating the structure of these very interesting fossil remains.

Among the limestone fossils brought by Captain Back from L ike Winipe^ arA
some like those which were obtained by Dr. Richardson from the same locality i4
the year 1S20, but which were not in a state sufficiently perfect to enable us to un
derstand their structure and relations. A memorandum having been given by Di
Richardson to Captain Back, of the spot from whence the fossils were obtained th<
latter has succeeded in procuring several specimens, which, although broken ar<
sufficiently well preserved to illustrate the nature of these remains. They are oi
thocerata of a peculiar kind, and resemble in their most important point tho.-e fnunJi
at Thessalon Island in Lake Huron, and described by Dr. Bigsby in the Geologici
Transactions (Second Series, vol. i. pp. 1»2, and 195 to 198). They .^re, howeve
probably not of the same species; but ihe point of resemblance is the structure of th
siphon, which has a tube within it, as described and represented in Plates \\
figs. 1, 2, 3, and XXVI. fig. 7, of the volume above referred to. This tube is con*
tinned through the whole length of the siphon, and from its present irregular slia
appears to have been composed of a coriaceous substance, capable of dilatation ani
contraction. The space within the siphon, between its interior walls and the out!
side of the included tube, has a number of plates radiating from the latter, throughonl^
its entire length, and apparently connecting it with the inner walls of the siphon t
hut these plates are too much covered by sparry crystallisation to enable us clearlt
to make out their character. This tube may have been the organ into which watef
could be received, when the animal required an increase of its specific gravity iif
order to descend ; a purpose which is supposed to be served by the siphon of the nuui
tilus and other chambered shells. i

There is also one specimen, which, though not in good preservation, is doubtle
a Catenipora or chain coral, a genus characteristic of the older transition limestones,
in which beds, also, orthocerata are common.

n»

utt

General 1 ist of Specimens, brought to England by Captain Back.*

From the .\thaba9ca (or Elk) River; (probably from one of the Portages).
Porphyritic, gray, compact felspar, enclosing grains of quartz, and of crystalline
felspar.

ami Simcoe ; and after forming the granitic barrier of the Thousand Isles, and the outlet of
Lake Ontario, spreads itself largely through the State of New York, and then joins the
Alleghanies and their southern continuations.

" The secondary rocks of Lake Huron are a portion of an immense basin, which, extendini
probably without interruption, from the southern shore of Lake Winiped, spreads icsell
over the greater part of Lakes Superior, Huron, and Simcoe — the whole of Lakes Mi>
ohigan, Erie, and Ontario ; much of the western part of the State of New York,— the
whole of the Slates of Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, and Michigan, and the rest of the Valley of |
the Mississippi." — (Geol. Trans. 2d Series, vol. i. pp. 188 — 191.) See also "Notes con
cerning the Geology of Norlli America, from Papers jtresented to the Society by the late |
Earl Selkirk." (Gtol. Trans. 1st Series, vol. v. p. 598, etc )

" These specimens have been compared with (hose in Dr. Richardson's collection, now i
in the museum of the Geological Society, of which a list is given in the Geological Appendix ',
to Franklin's Second .lourney. The numbers of the corresponding specimens in that list are ,
indicated below.

Cream-c(
and occasioi
stained witi
ruck much
River — Dr.
Winnipeg,
Great Sl
an island of
60, 132, p.

From Chi
vein of sparr
m, p. V, fri
p. xiv. from
From a sr,
lioulder, four
sists of limesi
concretional
fossil, the exi
Among th(
shores of this
ter, which Mi
fuss, and pro
From Fori
of several vari
ilesh-red felsf
siderable alti
a foliated stri
From the b
sisting of won
reous (effervei
The followii
lake, near For
of various sha
a conglomerat
From Hawk
specimens ind
From Rock
of reddish anc
From PoiNi
mntlerately fin
And Itstly,-
I of fine grain.

' This occuri
Ciyslalline and i
lomizalion; wh
the deposition ol
laining that eari

APPENDIX.

«ST

have beell
l<es hiraseV
:'»res, il1u» .

nipeR. ar»
locality i^
e us lo UB
ven by Dl

tained, th^
iroken, aH
ey are or
tho.-e foun^
Geological,
;, Loweveil
cture of till
lates XXVf
tube is con*
;ular aliapl
latation ani
ind the out!
, throughonf
the siphon if
le us clearl*
which watet;
c gravity irf^
1 of the nau4

I doubtles
imestonesJ

1-.*

ortages).'
crystalline!

the outlet off
:n joins that

I, extendingl
ireads itselfT

Lakes iMi^l
York,-the|
he Valley off
Notes con-j

by the late I

Cream-coloured limestone, effervescing slowly, containing impressions of shells,
and occaaional nests of crystallised magnesian carbonate of lime, and in some places
stained with bitumen ; * found in horizontal strata on the bank of the river. This
rock much resembles some of the specimens from the " Ramparts'' on the Mackenzie
River — Dr. Richardson's list, Nos. 148—156. p. xxxiv, xxxv. ; and from Lakp
Winnipeg, No. 1014, p. liv.

Great Slave Lake. — Hard slaty limestone, effervescing very slowly. " From
an island of large extent in horizontal strata." Compare with Richardson's No.s.
60, 132, p. xxxi; 205, p. xliv. ; 240, 293, p. vi.

From Christie's Bay (Peth-the-nn-eh). — Slaty (magnesian) limestone, with a
vein of sparry magnesian carbonate of lime. Compare with Dr. Richardson's, No.
'228, p. V, from the mouth of Dease's River, bead of Great Bear Lake ; and 20B,
p. xiv. from Cape Parry.

From a small bay in Gah-hooa-chella. — A specimen, which formed part of a
boulder, found loose on the beach by Mr. King, the surgeon of the expedition, con-
sists of limestone, effervescing copiously, and exhibiting on the decomposed surface
concretional grains like some varieties of oolite ; and containing also portions of a
fossil, the external structure of which resembles the genus Stromatopora of Goldfuss.

Among the specimens which have an organised structure, probably from the
shores of this lake, is one with a tuberculated surface, composed of calcareous mat-
ter, which Mr. Lonsdale considers as belonging to the genus Stromatopora of Gold-
fuss, and probably to his species pohjmorpha (Plate LXIV, fig. 8. d.)

From Fort Reliance, at the Eastern Extremity of Great Slave Lake. — Granite
of several varieties. Some specimens having the aspect of sienite ; others containing
flesh-red felspar, in large crystals, — described as " forming undulating rocks of con-
siderable altitude." Some specimens from this qrarter approach to gneiss ; having
a foliated structure, with mica in very large proportion.

From the beach, at the entrance of the Lake, is a siliceous conglomerate ; con-
sisting of worn pebbles of flint, cemented by a paste composed of sand and calca-
reous (effervescent) matter.

The following were found in the form of loose worn pebbles, on the shore of the
lake, near Fort Reliance ; — Bluish gray strip chalcedony ; quartz crystals j quartz
of various shades of gray and brown ; flinty slate ; brown jasper; with fragments of
a conglomerate, consisting of portions of reddish jasper, in a dark gray paste.

From Hawk Rapids. — (Lat. 66" 3'i', Long. 102» 40') — Reddish granite; some
specimens indicating a slaty structure. Gray quartz, apparently a po tion of a vein.

From Rock Rapid.— (Lat. 65« 50', Long, m" 20') — Granite of different shades
ot reddish and gray.

From Point Backhousi;, in the estuary of Back's River. — Reddish granite of
motlerately fine grain.

And Icstly,— From a ^^ Bluff, North of Point Beaufort."— Bluish gray granite
of fine grain.

" This occurrence of bituminous matter in iimeslone, nearly borderinp on a large tract of
I tiyslalline and igneous rocks, may deserve attention with reference to the hypothesis of Z)o-
hmizalion; which regards the introduction, or development, of magnesia as subsequent to
the deposition of the calcareous matter, and as ronnectod with the proximity of masses con-
taining that earth, and heated to a very high temperature.

t

iction, now ••
I Appendix ,
that list are

'iS8

APPENDIX.

<>

No. V.
METEOROLOOICAL TABLE,

ARRANr.FD FROM THE RECISTERS KEPT AT FORT RELIANCE BY TAPTAIN

BACK AND MR. KING.

The following table exhibits the temperature of the air and principal atmoHphp-
rical phenomena observe'l at Fort Reliance, from the commencement of November; '
I83:{, to the end of May, l^'M ; and from the 22d of October, 1834, to the 18tb of |
March, 1835. |

The temperatures were registered fifteen times in the twenty-four hours, between t
six. o'clock in the morning and midnight. The daily means were obtained from tlir J
fifteen observations. The four thermometers which were used were coloured spirit i
ones, made by Newman, and were hung up on the north side of the observatorv
where they were registered ; but finding that they varied from each other as tlit»
temperature viecreased, and that one gave nearly tie mean of the whole, it was after-
wards used as the standard thermometer, and from it the observations were made.

The remarks made on preceding voyages regarding the generally calm state nf
the atmosphere during intense cold, are in a great measure corroborated by the fol-
lowing table, though in some few instances it will be seen that a very low degree nl
the thermometer was accompanied by a breeze preceding or immediately following
a calm.

A()Sl

>
1 o

1

Temp

m0H{

15 Tim

Mean.

+ 1G0;

2
3
4
5

+ 25-61
■f-33-3!
+ 28-6f
-t-221«.

6

7

8

9

10

II

12

+ 12-25!
+-24-4S
-H23 71
-f 1609
+26 01
+20.61
4-12-73

13
11

— 2-83

+ 1-98

i.*)

+ 16-37

IG
17
18
19

+ 10 28
-hir38
+15-37
+27-31

20
21

+ 1-66
+ 6-41

22
23

+ 3-94
+ 8-88

24
25
26

27

28

+ 11-43
+22-06
+ 416
— 0-29
+1515

29

+ 2643

30

+16-03

Ml am

+ 11 82

APPENDIX.
AOstrart of Meteor oloffical Journal Jor ^^ovemher, 183.{,

^89

^PT.AIN

atmoHpIip.
Voveniber>
Lhe 18tli of i

8, between

id from the

ured spirit

bservatnry

ther as tiic

was al'ter-

ere made.

m state nl'

by the I'ol-

degree ol

folldwing

kept at Fort Relit

fiHce.

Temperature of the At-

.

'J,

moHplicre, rcj^istcrcd

Prcvttiliiij; Winds.

J

15 Times in the 21 Hours.

Prc^vailing

3

>
o

Weather, and
other Remarks.

1

Meau,

Highest
+21-50

Lowest

Direction.

Force.

Aurora
visible.

-f-16 03

4- 9-00

N.E. East.

7.1

Clear. Misty.

Snow.

2

+ 2561

4-31.00

4-20-50

S.E. N.E.

4.6

Clear.

Snow. Overcast.

»

f 33-35

+ 37-50

+2900

E.S.E. S.W.

3.6

Bright.

Hail. Rain. Clear.

' 4

4- 28-68

+ 33-50

^23-00

W. Calm. N.E.

4.2

GHoomy. Snow.

5

i-22-19

+ 27-00

-i-17.00

S.b.W. N.W. N.E.

4.3

Overcast. Misty.
Spicula;. Trees
covered with
hoar frost.

0

4-12-29

-f-29-00

4- 7-85

E.h.N.

4.6

Faint.

Cloudy. Variable

, 7

-f-2.1-48

-1-29-00

4-19-50

S.W. S.E. N.E.

4.3

Faint.

Clear.

8

-f-23 7I

+-29-00

4-12.50

E.h.N.

1.5

Faint.

Cloudy. Variable.

9

4-1609

4-18-00

4-12-00

E.N.E. Calm.

1

Gloomy. Misty.

10

4-26 01

4-28.50

-r-23-00

N.W. S.W.

6.7

Overcast. Snow.

11

4-20.61

4-24-00

4-15-50

N.W.

7.1

Faint.

Gloomy. Misty.

\2

4-12-73

4-18-25

4- 100

E. N.E.

2.5

Clear.

Snow. Overcast

Misty,
Variable. Clear.

i:i

— 2-83

— 100

4- 9-50

E. N.E.

5.2

Faint.

II

-f- 1-98

4- 9-00

— 500

E. N.E.

2.5

Clear.

Cloudy. Snow.
Clear. Bay fro-
zen over.

15

-f-16-37

4-28-50

— 2-00

N.E. S. AV.h.N.

4.10

Gloomy. Snow.
Squally.

10

4-10 28

4-20-50

— 1-00

N.W. N.E. Calm.

8.2

Overcast. Misty.

17

+-11-38

4-17-00

+• 8-00

E.b.S. S.E.

3.6

Cloudy. Clear.

IS

-f-15-37

4-2-2.00

+• 5-00

Variable. E.b.S.

5.4

Clear.

Vari-able. Foggy

19

4-2731

-i-30-50

4-20-00

S.E. S.W.

2.7

Faint.

Gloomy. Misty.
Snow. .

20

+ 1-66

-4-16-00

—11 50

R. N.E.

3.1

Clear.

Clear.

•il

i

-H 6-41

— 300

—10-50

W.b.N.E.b.N. Calm.

5.1

Faint.

Cloudy. Clear.
Luminous va-
pour 6 miles off
on the lake.

•22

4- 3-94

4-10-90

— 4.50

Calm. S.W.

4

Clear.

•i3

4- 8-88

-+12-00

4- 200

N.N.W. N.E.

2.3

Faint.

Clear. Overcast.
Lunar halo.

24

4-1143

4-17-00

-f 6-00

N.N.W. N.E.

2.3

Clear. Overcast.

25

+22-06

+ 30-75

4- 600

S.W. N.W.

8.5

Gloomy.
Partially clear.
Variahlp.

26

27

4- 416
— 0-29

-+ 7-00
4- 3-00

— 300

— 5-00

N. N.E.-
East.

3.2
6.3

28

4-1515

4- 25-00

4- 800

E.S.E. S.W.

5.(i

¥ (11 m*Jt\jt

Gloomy. Snow.

29

+ 26-43

4-28.50

4-23-00

S.b.W. N.E. Calm.

2.1

Hazy.
Overcast. Liglit

HO

-fl6-03

-+24-00

-+13-00

S.W. N.E.

6,-?

snow.
Hazy. Gloomy.

1

Snow.

M.an.

+-11-82

-:- •20-54

+ 7-62

I

inif^

'iUU

APPENDIX.

Abstract of MeU'oroloijiral Journal for Pccemhtr, \H'.i'A.
kt'pl at Fort Uelianco.

Ahsi

'

Temperature of the At-

""

Tempi

i

moHpherc, renistereU

Prevailing Winds.

,

roosp

15 Tim08 in the 24 Hours.

Prevailins

u

15Tiui(

a

Aurora

visible.

Weather, iin,!
other Hein.iri<.s.

Snow. Overcast,

3

a
1

Mean.

Highest

Lowest

Direction.

Force.

Mean.

1

+ 17-43

4-20-00

+ 1100

N.N.K S.W.

2.5

— 18-82

Misty.

2

—16 17

2

-f 15-50

-f 19.00

4- 900

N. S.1..W.

3.5

^lloomy. Snow
Foggy.

3

— rj-43

3

4- 9 71

+ 13-00

4- 7 00

N. N.N.K. Culm.

4.2

Gloomy. Snow.
Overrast.

J

— 17-03

— 5-70

4

-f-145l

— 15-00

4-1 1.00

N.E.

1.2

Faint.

Variable.

5

4-16 32

+ 1000

4-1400

East. S.W.

1.2

Cloomy. Snow

G

—26-82

0

4- 3-58

J- 1600

—18.00

S.W. East.

62

Faint.

Overcast. Snow

7

— 26.K0

7

^15-59

—1250

—18.50

E.lt.N. N.E.

2.4

Clear.

Clear.

H

—381)8

8

— sai

+ 100

—17-75

E.N.E. East.

0.2

Clear. Uazy
Snow.

9

—31-72

1

U

-f 14.20

4-17-00

4- 8-50

E. S.S.W.

1.2

Gloomy. Snow

10

—20-39

10

4- 1257

-1500

-+ 9 00

N.E. Cal'n.

1

Faint.

Clear.

II

—37-48 •

11

+ 13-01

+ 16-50

+ 900

Variable.

2

Faint.

Clear bine sky.

12

4-1002

4-23-00

+ 1200

S.W. Calm.

1

Overcast. Smiw.

12

—48.0,1

13

+ 10-90

+20-50

+ 12-00

S.W. W.b..

5.3

Gloomy. Misty.
Snow.

13

—ill 75 -

14

4- 7-64

4-12-00

+ 4-50

W.b.S. N.E.

2.1

Clear. OverniM.

11

— 52 .i6 -

The sun rosep.

15

— 17.08 .

over the eastern

mt

mountain luji

H

10

—00-33 -

15

— 2-78

+ 5-50

— 15-00

N.E. S.W.

3.7

Clear.

35m A.M.
Variable. Clomly.
Clear.

P

16

4- 8-68

-fl400

— 3-00

E.N.E. S.b.W.

6.4

Faint.

w

17

—10-77

-+ 5-00

—24-00

S.W. N.E. Calm.

10.8

Clear.

Squally. Clear.

i;

—54 31 -

18

+ 1203

+20 00

— 2-00

S.W.

7

Overcast. Snow.

19

—14-129

— 700

—17-50

N.E. E.b.S.

7.4

Faint.

Variable. Misty.
Lunar halo.

20

—18.91

-<- 100

—35-50

W. E.N.E.

8.3

Faint.

Clear.

21

— 6-90

-f 6-00

—22-00

N.E. S.E.

0.5

Overcast. Snow.

22

+ 8-93

-M3.00

—0000

S.W. Calm. East.

5.3

Faint.

Cloudy. Clear.

18

— 39*03 -

23

4- 2- 14

— 0-50

— 3-50

N.E. East.

3.8

Clear. Overcast.

19

— 4i)- 17 -

24

— 8-25

— 300

—12- 5

E.b.N. N.E.

4.6

Squally.
Overcast. Clear.

--»o
•il

—29-46 -
—42-63 -

25

-20-22

—20-00

—29-00

E. N.E.

2.3

Faint.

Misty.
Clear blue sky.
The sun set be-
hind a hill i
miles off at 2li
30m P.M.

23

-32-85 -
—19 42 -
—12 13 -

26

+ 3 16

+ 1600

-1300

N,E. S.W. South.

2.3.7

Cloudy. Gloomy.
Snow.

r

25

— 14 .% -

27

4- 0-42

+ 15-50

—1200

N.E. N.W. North.

7.6.8

Foggy, w ith snow.

..

•26

+1006 -

28

—1541

—13-00

—19-25

North.

9.2

•

Dark. Foggy.
Lunar halo.

'

27
2S

—36 03 -
—44-46 -

29

—35-53

—19-00

—44-50

Calm. W.b.S.

7

Faint.

Clear.

K

29

— 38-42 -

30

—35 18

—19-50

—5125

N.E. Calm.

5

Clear.

Clear.

w

;io

-35-79 -

31

Mud 4

—48-20

— 38-20

—57-50

East. Calm.

2

Clear.

Cloudy. Clear.

1

;ti

—20-73 -
-33-39 -

— 1 71

+ 5 49

— 9-<m

\\

APPENDIX.

•^01

Almtrnct nj' MvleuYoloifiral JoiinuiiJ'vr Juiimny, IMJil,
kept at Fort He/innce.

Temperature of the At-

mosphere, registered

Prevailing Winds.

c

ISTimeHiiithe^-l Hourn.

Prevailing

3

a

VVeatlwT, and
other Iteniarkn.

-»

Mean.

HigiiCHt

Lowest

Direction.

Force.

Aurora
vinible.

1
1

— m-82

— 1500

—54 00

Calm.

Fuint.

Clear blue sky.

2

—m\i

—42-0,1

—5200

E.h.N Calm.

2

Clear.

Clear.

3

— 13 J3

— 8-00

—38 00

S.W. VV.h.N.

0.5

Clear.

Cloudy. Snow.
Clear.

J

— 17-03

— 12-00

—23 50

S.VV. N.K.

5.2

Faint.

Clear blue sky.

5

— 5-70

— 2 50

—10-00

EaHt. Calm.

2

Clear.

Dvcreast. Snow.
Clear.

G

—2682

—1700

—3700

Variable. Calm

4

Faint.

Partially clear.

7

— 20.K0

—2250

—31 00

VV.b.N. N.W.

4.2

Clear.

Clear.

H

— 38-(»8

—25-50

—4700

North. Cahn.

3

Faint.

Clear blue sky.

»

—31-72

— 15 00

—4200

Calm. S.W.

5

Faint.

Clear. IMisty.
Ovvi'cast.

10

— 20-39

—2200

—35-50

Variable. Calm.

5

Clear.

niue sky.

11

— 37-'18

—3200

—4700

Calm.

Clear.

Blue sky. IMisty.
Parhelia.

12

—48.0,1

—41 00

—50-25

S.W. Calm.

2

Ikight.

Clear. Cloudy.
Misly.

i:i

— 5175

—50-00

—5950

E.N.E. Calm.

3

Hiit;ht.

Clear.

11

—5250

—4700

—5900

Calm.

Clear.

Very clear.

15

— 17.0M

— 11-25

—5200

East. Calm.

3

Faint.

Clear. ( 1 laid
lunar.)

ir>

-00-33

—52-50

—68 00

Calm.

Bright.

Clear. Misty.
( See c.\peri-
ments on ether,

&c.)

i;

—5131

— 1500

—7000

Calm. W.li.S.

5

Faint.

Cliiar. Thr ink (rvtr on the
|>«n 4'*i fcrl friMi, « iNr^'
fire. .ArcoriliDK tit oiir «rii
ffAtiunf, Ihia iDi.riiiliK was
mure »«*fre Oitn ^ny j>rr
irdiDK uDj. I'liprfnotnrlrr
in my rugm H". 'I li - «iiinkr
uf K wai (.Mnilli* III 111*- oil
imKlury, Ht a t'liii oliin
iif 34", rune iu » fr-^Jiy l> ii k
roluniD, .

'18

—39-03

— 3S-00

—45-00

S.W.

7.2

Faint.

Clear.

19

— 4o-17

—35 00

—54 00

N.E. Cain.

1

Faint.

Clear.

•io

— 29-40

—2200

—50-00

Calm. VV. S.W.

32

("tear.

Cloudy. IMisty.

•21

—4203

—30 00

—4975

N.E. Calm

2

Clear.

Clear.

22

—32-35

—25-00

—48-00

Variable. Calm.

5

Fuint.

Clear. Lunar lialo,
anj;le 22' 15'.

23

—19 42

—11-50

—28-50

S.W. Calm.

7

Faint.

Cloudy. Misty.
Clear.

•21

—1213

— 4-50

—2500

N.E. Calm. V\'.S.W.

5.4

Clear. Overcast.
Snow.

25

—14 50

— 800

—18-00

West. S.W.

2.8

Clear. Gloomy.
Misty.

•26

-flOOO

-f 7-00

+•22-50

S.W. N.W.

9.0

Gloomy. S(|ually.l

27

—30 03

—2000

—49-25

Calm.

Faint.

Clear.

28

—44-40

—38-50

—53-00

Calm.

Clear.

Clear.

29

-38-42

—32 00

— 18-00

W.S.W

3.8

Clear.

Clear. Overcast.

SO

—35-79

—24 00

—54-00

S.W. Calm.

0

l^iiiit.

Clear.

Vmtii

—20-73

—10-25

—30-00

S.W. Calm. W.N.W,

0.7

Clear.

Light snow. Clear.

i

1

—33-39

—-20-87

—39-41

m

ly

'•'*-^ AFPENDIX.

Abstract of Metvoroloffirnl Journal for February^ I884,
kept at Fort Reliance.

Al

r*

Temp

j "

■

Temperature of llie At-

mos

>.

mosphere, regi-stered

Prevailing Winds.

r*

15Tiu

15 Times in the 21 Hours.

Prevailing

Weather, and

other Remarks.

1

■

1

Mean.

INIean.

Highest

Lowest

Direction.

Force.

Aurora
visible.

4-12 5'

■ '

1

—3014

-33-50

— 10-50

West. S.W.

8.2

Bright.

Clear

\ "■*

— 32-41

—•27 50

—45-00

N.E. Calm.

5

Clear. Overcast.

:j

— 44-G4

—40-50

— 19-00

Calm. N.E.

1

Clear, Misty.

2

+27 1

1

— 16-80

—38-00

—58-00

Calm. N.E.

4

Faint.

Blue sky. Misty.

5

— 30-00

—2500

—35-00

N.E. S. Calm.

3

Variable. Sno\\.
Cloudy.

;

3

+ 0-8:

G

— 1277

— 800

- 29-50

S Calm. E.

1.6

Faint.

Cloudy. Overcast.

7

— 2 53

-f- 3-50

— 8-50

N. E.N.E.

6.8

Faiut.

Overcast. Gloomy

4

-13-65

8

-f- 7-lG

-f-21-00

-17-50

S.W. N.

.5.1

Clear.

Cloudy. Clear.

5

+00-41

»

—•27-57

—15-00

—38-00

N W . Calm.

5

Hright.

Clear.

10

— 20'8;

—21-75

—37.50

S.W. Calm.

Bright.

Clear.

6

-15-8;

11

— 7-04

4- 2 50

—19-00

W. N.E. Calm.

32

Faint.

Clear. Over a i.

7

—321;

12

+ 7-18

+ 1400

— 1-00

S.W.

7

Cloudy. Overcast.

I

—28-3^

13

—20-47

— GOO

—47 00

N.E. Calm.

9

Faint.

Misty. Clenr.

9

— 9.9:

11

—28-51

—17-50

—4600

Calm. N.E.

4

Faint.

Clear. Distanf.
mountains re-

10

+ 8-0:
+ 0-9,1

fracted.

i

15

~\i-l'i

— 6-00

—•25-00

S.W. Calm.

1

Faint.

Variable. Snow,
Lunar halo.

ii'

12

— i-3a

IG

— 3-08

-f- 2-50

— 8.00

W.N.W. .S.W. Calm.

2.1

Faint.

Clear. Overcast.

1

17

-h 5-71

-f-11 00

4- 2-00

S.E. Calm. S.

3 1

Clear.

m> ■ 13

+ 2-.5C

18

— G-88

4- 2 25

—18-50

Calm.

Dark. Gloomv,

1

14

+ 9-91J

11)

—■23-74

— 11-."J0

—41-00

N.E. Calm.

4

Clear.

■k

20

— 2S-35

— i9-.;o

— 11-50

N.E. Calm.

Clear.Misty.Snow

15

R.^d

Lunar halo.

K

C» 4U

21

—33-75

—•20-50

—44-00

Calm. N.E.

2

Clear.

B

22

—2602

—12-00

—40-50

N.E. Calm.

4

Clear. Pahelia,

■''

23

+. 4-15

4- 8-50

— 6 5!)

W. S.W.

3.7

Cloudy, then clear.

i

16

— 13 54

24
25

-f- 10-28
+ 15-20

■1-25.00
4-23-50

4- 4-00
4- 900

S.W. N.E.
Variable. Calm.

3,4
3

Spiciil.TJ.
Clear. Misty.

(Halo lunar.)
Overcast. Snow,

1

17

18
19

—2537
—16-80
—17 In

2G

-+- 4-13

-i-li'JO

— ir»o

W. Calm. N.E.

2.3

Faint.

Clear.

il

20

— 0-9 J

27

-f- 3 21

4-10-50

— 400

S.E. E.N.E.

10.9.5

Gloomy. S(iually,
with whirls nl
drift. Clear,

1

— 205

—18-4:1

28

-f 0-64

4- 8-50

— 8-50

W. Calm. N.E.

3.5

Faint.

Overcast. Clr;ii'.

r

-23

— 7 3:i

f

•) 1

f 9- IH

— 5-8(

M.an.

1

— 14 37

— 5-3(1

— -26 00

•25
•2()

1 J

— 137

:

•11

—14-48

1

i
'•i8

+ 115

■*

1

' 29

1

+ 5 02

f

,30
31

— 3-2(
-15-23

P

M.'ii'.

— (Ill

I

APPliNDIX.

'J93

34,

Abstract oj Meteor o logical Journal for March, 1834,
kept at Fort Reliance.

availing
ther, and
Heinarks

Overcast .

Misty,
[y. Misty,
le. Sno\\.

Jy.

. Overcast.

St. Gloomy

.Clear.

Over a t.
'. Overcast.

Clenr.
DistaiH
ntains rc-
:ed.

le. Snow,
ar halo.
Overcast

Histy.Siiow I
ir halo.

Pahelia.
then clear.

ll.T?.

Misty.
lunar.)
St. Snow .

Prevailing
Weather, and
other Remarks.

Clear. Overcast.

Parhelia. Slight

thaw in the sun.
Clear. Cloudy.

Snow. ( Snow

soft. )
Gloomy. Heavy

drift. Clear.
Clear. Ovcrca.st.
Overcast. Squally

Drift.
Clear.
Clear.

Cloudy. Mi.sty .
Overcast. Clear.
Clear. Overcast.
Clear. A M)ft blue

sky. Thaw

the sun.
Clear blue sky

Drift.
Overcast. Drift.
Variable. Light

Snow. Slight

thaw.
Clear. Mi.sty.

Overcast. iSpi-

cula;.)
Cloudy. Snow.

Clear.
Very clear.
Cloudv. Misty,
("lear.
Clear.

Clear. Hills re-
fracted .
Clear.
Clear. Lunar

halo.
Snow. Overcast.
Cloudy. Snow

Clear.
Overcast. Clear.

Heavy drift.
Overcast. Clear.

Drift.
Cloudy. Misty.

Clear.
Cloudv. Clear.

(Thaw.)
Clear. Squally

On It.
Clear. Ovcicast.

i,|

i

1

1

1

<
I

291 APPENDIX.

Abstract of Meteorological Journal J or April^ 1881,
kept at Fort Reliance.

Temperature of the At-

' "

Tem

mosphere, registered

Prevailing Winds.

mo!

--'

15 Times in the 24 Hours.

Prevailing

">.

15 Til

<

Weather, and
other Remarks.

Mean.

Highest

Lowest

Direction.

Force.

Aurora
visible.

Mean

1

— 9.61

-+■ 2.50

—24-00

Calm. N.E.

4

Clear.

Clear.

1

+ 4-5

2

+14.87

4-22-50

— 600

N.E. E.b.N.

5.2

Clear.

Cloudy. Clear.

2

+191

i

+33-68

4-51-00

+ 14 00

N.E. Cahn. S.W.

2.6

Clear.

Cloudy. Clrar.
(Brisk thaw.)

. 3

' 4

+ 35-5
+ 35-5

4

4- 003

4-11-50

—12-00

W. Calm. N.E.

3

Faint.

Clear. Overcast.

5

+ 1116

■fl8-00

+ 2-50

E. Calm.

7

Faint.

Cloudy. Clear.

5

+33-3

6

■+- 2-24

4-11 00

— 500

N.E E.b.N.

5.8

Faint.

Clear. Heavy
drift. Misty.

6
7

+33-4
-h329

7

+ 805

4-13-00

— 3 00

E. Calm.

9

Gloomy. Overcasi.
Heavy drift.

S

1

-^230

8

-f 7-34

-1-17-50

— 8-00

W. W.N.W. Calm.

4.8

Faint.

Clear. Overcast.
Heavy drift.

9

+14-6

9

-f 720

42900

— 14-00

Calm. Variable.

6

Faint.

Clear. Cloudy.
Solar lialo.
Snow.

! 10

12

+ 19-5
+29-2
+37-0

10

+2006

424 00

+ 13-00

VV. Calm.

7

Faint,

Overcast. Heavy
drift. Ravens

: 13

+45-8

11

-fll 18

4-2800

— 2- 00

Calm. Variable.

5

Hiight.

pairing.
Clear. Thaw in
the sun.

14

+39-9!

12

-f 8-32

+14-50

+ 4-50

E.S.E. E.N.E.

6.8

Snow. Foggy-.
Gloomy, with
much drift.

+314-

13

•4- 7-37

-i-14-00

+ 2-00

N.E. East.

7.1

Overcast. Drift.

14

4- 9-57

+2200

— 2-50

Calm. N.E.

4

Clear.

Clear. Thaw in
the sun.

,16

+370f

15

+20-72

+31-50

+ 500

S. N.E. Calm.

2.5

Faint.

Clear.

il7

+24-71

U)

1

— 040

+ 12-00

—2300

N. W. Calm.

3.7

Clear.

Cloudy. Misty.
Clear.

i 1 18
1 19

+27-7''
+32-4']

I 17

— 7 -SO

+ 2-00

-22-00

W. N.E. Calm.

5.6

Clear.

Clear.

, ! -20

+39-7^

IH

— 6-93

+ 9-50

—24-00

N.E. Calm.

5

l)rij;lit.

Clear.

> i'^'

+49- 7f

|{)

— 8 23

+ 6-OU

—24.00

Calm. VV. N.E.

2

Faint.

Clear refiaotionp ' ^^
Overcast. Mistvf i

-f43-6t

20

+ 502

+ 13-00

—2000

N.E. S.E. N.E.

5.0.J

Clear. Cloudy. ' ^ '^^

+ 31-5:

21

-f- 818

+20-00

— 1500

N. N.W. Calm.

3.8

Overcast. Snow.|H|
Clear. ■

•l\

+35-IF

22

-f 13-lS

+ 6-50

—21 00

N.W.S.W.Calm.N.R.

7.4.2

Clear blue sky. K

•J5

+44-5-]

23

- "O'.iS

+31-00

— 5 00

\ ariable. Calm

2

Clear. K

•i6

+ 47-6'

24

-^23f)r.

+27-(IO

+ 17-00

E. N.E.

2.7

Faint.

Clear and squally. »r

27

+58-61

25

4-43-23

-i-5250

+33-50

E. S.E W.S.W.

6.11.5

H' -ht.

Overcast aiidR
clear. ^

•28

+ 61-36

2(i

-f-12 05

+27-00

— r>oo

S.U. W. N.W.

11 10.3

Faint.

Gloomy . Snow.
Clear.

i;!m

1-42-91

+ 44-81

27

+ 3-90

+ 12-00

— U-(»0

Calm. N.U. N.E

4.3

CIrar,

Clear blue sky.

W- '

+ 59 8J

28

+ 7-46

+ 1501

— 1-00

Ea&t.

7

Clear.

B

20

+• 600

+ 12-r)0

— 5-50

E. Calm.

1

Faint.

Overcast. Misty.

fc'.**^

+36-0:

30

-j- \\'>

+ 13-00
+ 18-96

—17 00

E. \\. N. Calm.

3

Faint.

Clear.

1

Uuat

+ 8-2*.i

— 1. OS

I

APPENDIX.

29

11 i

1 K Abstract of Meteorological Journal for May ^ 1834, .j j!||

S kept at Fort Reliance

.1

— 4

Temperature of the At-

f 1

mosphere, registered

Prevailing Winds. \

evailing
ithpr 'iikI

>t

15 Times in the 24 Hours.

Prevailing

1 11

Weather, and
other Remarks.

f a

iiiici J (111(1
- Reinarivs.

Mean.

Highest

Lowest

Direction.

Force.

Aurora
visible.

1

-1- 4-59

+15-00

—11-00

W. W.S.W. Calm.

2.6

Faint,

Clear blue sky.

y. Clear.

•J

4-1913

+2900

00-00

Calm. N.E.

4

Clear blue sky.

'-; I

y. Clear.

; ii

+ 35-56

+4500

+24-00

Calm. N.E,

3

Clear. Overcast.

\''\ ^

sktliaw.)
Overcast.

1

+ 35-59

+42-00

+28-00

E.N.E.

4

Clear. Smart

thaw.

'f:

y. Clear.

5

+33-31

+39-50

+2800

E. N.E.

2.5

Clear. Overcast.

- H

Heavy

rt. Misty.
ny.Overca.si.

(i

+33-42

—39 00

+25-00

East.

5

Clear.

I 1

7

-h3292

+41-50

4-23-00

Calm. E.N.E.

5

Blue sky. Clear.

i <i k\

: 8

-^23-09

+3300

+ 1300

E. N.E.

4.6

Overcast. Clear.

1' N

ivy drift.

1

Willows beg-

' If

. Overcast.

inning to bud.

i

avy drilt.

9

+14-61

+ 19-00

+ 1 50

East.

7.3

Clear and squally.

Cloudy,
ar halo

!io

+ 19-58

+ 27-50

-u 8-00

Calm. East.

2

Blue sky. Clear.

|ii

+29-21

+38-00

+ 14-00

East. N.E.

5.4

Clear.

I

3\V.

12

+37-07

+44-00

+2300

E.S.E.

6

Clear. Mlsiy.

1 i

:ast. Heavy

13

-f-45-85

+5600

-I-34-00

E. S,E. 8.VV.

3.7 1

Overcast. Clear.

(t. Uavens

A goose Hew

■! ^

ring.

Thaw ill

past the Fort.

•^ ,i

;14

+39-98

+4!)00

+27-00

W. S,W. VV.N.W.

1.4.6

Clear blue sky.

^

sun.

i

Gulls, small

,s

Foggy.

i

birds, and flies

p 1

)omy, with
ch drift. 1

15

+-31-47

+ 39-00

+ 23-50

Variable. Calm.

2

seen.
Clear. Butterfly

;ast. Drift. 1

and orioles

if '

Thaw ill 1
sun.

,10

+37-09

+49-00

+29-50

E. E.b.N. .

1.0

seen.
Clear. Overcast.

A ■

|17

+-24-71

+30-00

+ 8-50

N.E. Calm.

0

Gloomy. Clear.

t

y. Misty.
ar.

lis

-+27-77

+34-00

+ 14-00

W.S.W. Calm.

4

Clear. Overcast.

1 1 ■

'. 19

+-32-44

+39-50

+24-00

West. N.E.

5.2

Overcast. Snow.

i 1

1-20

+ 39-74

+46-00

+ 32-00

E. Calm.

6

Clear blue sky.

■ '

121

+49-76

-j-5600

+ 39-50

S.E. N.E.

6.3

Clear. Gloomy.

B i

1
refraction

\-i2

-1-43-69

+54-00

+34-50

East.

6.10

Gloomy, with

m '

•rcast. Misty

hard squalls.

H '

Cloudy. '

■i'i

+ 31-53

+35-50

+2700

East.

9.0

Gloomy, with

V\ V

ast. Show.

II

squalls.

Hr

[ir.

I '^

+35-18

+ 40-00

+28-00

E.b.N. Calm.

I

Overcast.

ill

blue sky.

W -2')

+44-54

+ 57-00

+33-50

N.E. S.E.

2

Overcast. Clear.

■ H ^

I %

+ 47-67

+ c;6-00

+3S-00

E. N.W. E.

4.2

Clear blue sky.

iHl

uul squally.

h 27

-f-58-69

+68-50

+43-00

Variable. Calm.

4

Clear. Moschetoes

m\

ast and

■

seen.

i ■ 1

p^

28

+ 61-36

+81-00

+41-00

Calm. E.N.E.

7

Clear. Squally.

ly. Snow,
ir.

f 2!)

-t-42H9

+49-00

+33-00

East.

10

(Hear. Gloomy.

I 11

i ' •"*

+ 44-83

+ 52-00

+37 1)0

E. E.K.E.

9.0

Squally. Clear.

w 1

blue sky

isi. Misty.

+ 59 85
+3603

+ 72-00
+ 14 38

+47 00

S.E. Calm.

:y

Clear blue sky.

1;*

+ •24 82

i

1 !

8M

APPENDIX.

Abstract of Meteor of oyical Journal for October, 1834,
kept at Fort Reliance.

Temperature of the At-

(

1

,

mosphere, registered

Prevailing Winds.

1

15 Times iti the 24 Hours.

Prevailing !

2
6

Weather, and
other Remarks.

Mean.

Highest

Lowt.i

Direction.

Force.

Aurora
visible.

1
2
3

4
5
6

7

S

9

10

1

!
i

u

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

'■

19

|2U

21

22

— 1-28

-f 4-50

+ 7-50

East.

6.2

Clear.

Misty. Blue sky.

23

+ 9-91

+-1500

— 4-50

E. S.

3.7

Overcast. Snow.

24

+ 16-06

+-22.00

+11-50

E.N.E.

*

3

Overcast. Clear.
(Bay in front'
of the house
frozen. )

Misty. Clear.

25

-f-21-49

+29-50

+ 16-50

South.

S.E.

2.4

26

-t-16-47

+-2600

+ 9-00

Calm.

E.

5

Faint.

Blue sky. '

27

-H23-77

+2900

+ 10 00

E.b.S.

6

Faint.

Gloomy. Over-
cast. J

28

-I-22-95

+•2600

+ 18-00

E. S.

Calm.

1.3

Overcast. Snow

29

+3105

+34 00

+-24-00

E.N.E.

Calm. E.

3

Gloomy. Misty.

3U

-I-33-74

-I-35-50

+ 3100

East.

7

Squally, with!
snow.

3i

+32-89

+3400

+ 32-00

s.w.

8

Dark, and very

M<tu

squally.

-f20-70

+ 25-50

+1400

f.

Temper

u

mosph

g

ISTimei

|l

Mean.

1

+-•29- 5S

2

+25-77

3

+-19-61

4

+ 19-21

5

+2107

6

+ 8-16

7

+•26-20

• 8

+24-32

9

+15-10 -

10

-}- 2-87

11

—10-40 •

il2

—16-44 •

13

—10-65

14

L

— 1 42 -

15

+ 17-25 -

16

+22-68 ■

17

+ 23-84 -

18

+ 16-27 •

19

+24-94 ■

20

+ 19-29 -

21

+ 18-40 ■

22

+ 19-45 -

23

+ 8-40 ■

24

+ 10-58 -

25

+ 18-72 -

26

+ 11-68 -

27

+ 9-43 -

28

+ 8-27 -

29

+ 5-35

30

1

—25-80 -

1

Mr 111,

+ 1205 -

i APPENDIX. -i'rt

Abstract of Meteoroloffical JournufJ'or Xovi'mhcr, 1834,
/icpt at Fort Reliance.

Temperature of the At-

ailing >
er, and
eraarks. 1

mosphere, registered

Prevailing Winds.

■i 5;

15 Times in the 24 Hours.

Prevailing

i 1

Weather, and
other Remarks.

■ 1

Mean.

Highest

Lowest

Direction.

Force.

.\urora
visible.

-f-29a8

+31-50

+-^7-00

S.E. Calm. S.W.

3.6

Clear. (Jloomy.

1

2

4-25-77

+27-00

+24-00

West.

8

Gloomy, with
squals Snow-
drift.

1
1

i

t ^

4-19-61

+23-00

+ 13-50

W. N. Calm.

8.2

Bright.

Overcast. Snow,

Clear.
Clear blue sky.

1

-f- 19-21

+30-50

+1000

E.N.E. Calm. S.W.

2.7

Clear.

5

-f-2107

28-00

+ 14-50

S.W. N.W. N.

6.3.4

Gloomy.

6

4- 816

+ 14.00

+ 2-00

East.

3

Faint.

Clear. Overcast.

!

7

+26-20

+31-00

+21-00

N. Calm. S.W.

2.6

Brighi.

Overcast. Clear.

1

1 ^

4-2432

4-30-50

+14-50

W.b.N. N.

7

Gloomy, with
snow.

'

9

4-1510

-f-18-25

+1175

N.E. Calm. N.W.

4.3

Overcast. Suow.

10

+ 2-87

+14-00

— 6-50

N.B.W. Calm N.b.E,

2.1

Faint.

Clear. Misty.

11

— 10-40

— 1-50

—19-00

N.E. Calm.

4

Clear.

Blue sky.

12

—16-44

— 8-00

—24-00

Calm. E. Calm.

3

Clear.

Clear. Bay en-

;

1

tirely frozen

1

over to the outer

1

point.

13

—10-65

— 7-50

—18-50

East. Calm. East.

5.4

Clear.

Clear blue sky.

[ilue sky.!

14

— 1-42

4-12-00

— 900

N.E. Calm. S.W.

3.5

Clear. Cloudy.

Snow.

.-

Misty,

, Clear..

15

4-17-25

-4-23-00

+12-00

S.W. Calm. S.W.

5.2

Gloomy. Misty.

in front'

16

4-22-68

+25-50

+2000

Calm. S.W.

2

Variable clear.

3 housej

17

4-23-84

4-26-00

+22-00

Calm. E.

6

Gloomy. Snow.

) 1

18

4-16-27

+ 19-50

4-13-00

E.N.E.

5

Clear.

Clear, i

19

4-24-94

+26-00

4-2200

E. S.E. Calm.

4.5

F'aint.

Overcast. Misty.

1

20

4-ia-29

4-26-50

+ 9-00

S.W. S.E.

3.2

Clear.

Gloomy. Clear.

Over-

21

4-18-40

-r 25-00

+13 25

Calm. N.E. S.W.

3.6

Brill'.

Clear.

1

22

+ 19-45

+^4-00

+1300

S.W. N.E.

6.4

Clear. Misty.

Snow.

23

4- 8-40

+ 14-25

00-00

East. S.W.

2.5

Bright.

Foggy. Gloomy.

Misty.'

24

+ 10-58

-i-24-00

+ 4-00

E.N.E. Calm. S.W.

2.5

Overcast.

with!

25

+ 18-72

+23-50

+ 14-50

S.W.

3.6

Faint.

Clear. Overca.st.

^j 26

+ 11-68

+ 14-00

+ 7-50

E.N.E. Calm.

5

Gloomy, with

1(1 very

|i

snow.

l;27

+ 9-43

+14-75

4- 3-50

Calm.

0

Faint.

Foggy. Clear.

1 2S

4- 8-27

+1375

4- 1-50

S.W. N.E. N.N.W.

5.7.2

Clear.

Variable. Snow.

i'29

+ 5-35
—25-80

+ 800
—17-50

+ 3-75
—3-2-00

Calm. S.W. Calm.
East. Calm. S.W

-»

Clear.
Overcast.
Clear. Overcast.

1 30

2
2.7

i

Eclipse of

'

sun. )

!Mrjnj

4-1205

+ 17-78

~ 6 27

i'i

i i

■w
m

' ii

i!'

208 4PPENDIX. f

Abstract of Meteorological Journal for Decamher, 183 1,
kept at Fort Reliance.

7
8
9

10
11
12
18
11
15

22

Temperature oC the At-
mosphere, registered
15 Times in the 24 Hours.

Mean.

aicaoi

—18-82
—4115

-30-86

— :r2
—•38-30

—18-26

— '.}7-97
—•26-75

— 9 52

+ 7-27
-10-82

— 600
—16-57
—2925
-53-91

-35-88
-26-21

-27-88

-37-99

-18-58
-40 25

—50 60

-55 52
-31 74
-37 14
-28-55

-27-14
-34-16

-.5004
-36 17
-43 52

-3243

Highest

—1300
—3500
—2400
—39-00
—2400

—1400

—3300
—21 00

— 4-00

4-22-00

— 1-00
—1.5-00
—10-00
—12-0
—51-50

-28-00
-2200

-22-00

-3350

-12-50
-33-50

-4600

—.50-. 50
—28-00
—33-00
—24-00

— 24-00
—24 50

—43-50
—33-50
—42-00

-2596

Lowest

—30-00
—47-00
—4000
—48-50
—51 00

—28-50

—42-00
—38-00
—20-00

—2000
—1700
-50-50
—42-00
— 1200
—55-50

— i."r0O
—33 00

—3300

—4300

-52-50
—52-00

-54-00

—58-00
—46-00
-40-00
—3300

—33-00
—43-00

—54 00

— 1200

— 1500

—4121

Prevailing Winds.

Direction,

N.W.
Calm.
Calm.
Calm.
Calm.

Calm.

W. Calm.

S.W.

S.W. Calm.

Calm. East,
East. Calm.
E. N.E. Calm.

S.W,

N.E. Calm
North. N.E.
Variable. Calm.
N.E. W.N.W.
E. N.I.W. Calm.
Calm.

W. Calm. S.W,
S.W.

W.N.W. W.

Calm. W.S.VV. Calm,

S.W. Calm,
Calm. .S'.W. Calm.

Calm.

Calm.

N.E. East.
E.N.E.
East Calm

E.b.N.
Calm. N.E.

Force.

Calm
East,
Calm, N

N.l-..

1

2

3.6

5.1

1

2.6

2,6

2.7

9

9,'i
6

1

5

Aurora
visible.

Clear.
Clear.
Bright.
Bright.
Faint.

Clear.

Faint.
Clear.
Bright,

Faint.

Clear.

Faint.
Faint,

Faint.

Faint.
I-'aint.

Clear.
Bnll'.

Bright,

('tear.
Clear.
Faint.
Clear.

Faint.
Faint,

I'aiiiL
Faint.
Faint,

Prevailing
Weather, and
other Keraarks,

Overcast. Calm.

Blue sky.

Mistv. Clear.

Clear.

Clear. Overcast,

Squally.
Gloomy, Squally.

Clear.
Clear.

Misty. Clear.
Overcast. Snow,

Clear.
Snow. Clear.
Clear blue sky.
Clear.

Gloomy. Snow,
Cloudy. Clear.
Misty. Clear.

(Moon partly

eclipsed.)
Overcast. Clear,
Misty. llani

squalls. Halo
Squally. Clear.

Heavy drift.
Foggy. Clear.

(Moon rose due

North, )
Clear blue sky
Foggy. Clear,

(Sun first visible

above the hill

atl0''14"> A.M.)
Blue sky. Misty.

(Sun's allitudt

at noon 3" 10'.
Blue sky. Misty.
Cloudy. Overcast
Cloudy.
Overcast. Snow

Clear.
Foggy. Overcast
Cloudy. Misty,

Clear.
Blue sky. Misty
Blue sky. Cloudy
Clear.

S

.4

Tel

nil

1511

Mea

6
7

9
10

II

12

13

14
15

17

18

19

20
21
22

25

26

27
28
29
30
31

^^mjf

w

I APPENDIX. WD

Ahstiacl of Meteoroloffical Journal Jor JaHuar if, 1835,
kept at Fort Jlelianee.

12

13

II

15

10
17

IB

I!)

•21

•ii

•i.i
■l\
•25

•2(i

•27
•28
•21)

:{()
:n

Temperature of the At-
mosphere, registered
15 Times in the '24 Hours.

Mean.

Highest

-3()-07
-1809
-•21-57
-•21-»1
-I2-2G
-13 91
-2137

— 9 55

— 475
— 2115

— 18-22

— 389

-~ 0-80

— 1-2-88
— •20-91

—14-89

— 6-45

— 1575

—13 90

— 4 71

— 5-74

— 7-24

— 4 86

— 5-90
— 1777

—•25 10

—23-20

—'28- '27
— 24'S8
— 35-23
—44 03

-2600
-13-50
-1700
-15-50
- 9-50
-1000
-17-00

Lowest

—44-00
—22-00
—27-00
—2700
—16-00
—15-25
-•24-50

Prevailing Winds.

Direction.

— 7-00 —12-00

— 2-50

— 600

-12-00

2 50

4- 1 75

— 4 00
—14-00

— 8-75

— 3 50

— 700

— 000

— 1-75

— 5-00

— (iOO

— 1 00

— ^2-10
—1500

— -22 00

—20-75
—23-50
—22-00
—3000
—38-00

Mm,,, —16 o2 — irS4

— 8-00
•26-00

—22-00

— 9-00

--. 3-25

—31-25

—28-50

—2500
—11 00

—•27-00

—21-00

— 11 00

— 8-75

— 9-50

— 900
—1000
—•2000

—•27-50

— •2«iOO
—3400
—3200
— 10-00
—51 00

N.E. Calm.

Variable. Calm.

Variable. Calm.

East.

South. Calm.

Calm. E.b.S.

Calm. E.N.E.

East.

Calm. N.E.
Calm. N.N.E.

E.N.E.

East.

E. Calm. S.W.

S.W". Cabu.
Calm. Variable. Calm,

Calm. N.E.
Calm. E.N.E.

.S.W E.N.E.

E.N.E. Calm.

Calm.
Calm.
.S\V. S.E.

Calm. N.E. Calm.
E.N.E.

E.b.N. E.

N.E.

East.

E.b.N. Calm

N.E.

East,

N.E. Calm.

Force.

-21 KS

3
2
2
6
2
5
6

10.3

2.3

5
2

5
7

4.5

1.2

2

8
'.)

I

3
5

I

3

Aurora
visible.

Clear.
Clear.
Clear.
Faint.

Faint.

Faint.
Faint.

Faint.

Clear.

Prevailing
Weather, and
other Remarks.

Clear.
Clear.
Faint.

Faint.

Clear,
liri^ht.
Clear.
Faint.
Clear.

Clear.

Blue sky.

Blue sky. Clear.

Clear. Overcast.

Gloomy.Overcast.

Overcast. Misty.

Overcast. Hazy.

Halo. Snow-
drift.
Overcast. Variable

Gloomy. Drift
Overcast.
Cloudy . Hazy.

Halo.
Hard squalls, and

hazy. Drift.

(Kite sent up.)
Overcast and

gloomy, with

drift.
Overcast. Snow.

(iloomy.
Clear. Cloudy.
Snow. Variable.

Cloudy.
Blue sky.
Overcast. Misty.

Snow.
Gloomy. Misty.

Beautiful lunar

halo, with pena-

selcnae.
Clear. Overcast.

Perhelion.
Clear Variable.
Clear. Overcast.
Misty. Overcast.

Trees covered

with hoarfrost.
Cloudy. Clear,

Hoar frost.
Cloudy. Squally,

with drift.
Hard squalls,

with whirls of

drift.
Clear. Overcast

Drift.
Snow. Misty.
Clear blue sky
Cloudy.
Blue sky.
Misty.

I ]

^?;

I I

i

:i()o

\l»l»i:NDlX,

Absliarl of jyii'lcovolotjivMl Jtmrm.f Jhi Fehiuani, I8.{^>,
kept <il Fort HeUance.

Tciiii>orature oCthc Al-

inospherc, rej^islcrcd

Prevailing Winds.

15 Times in the 24 1 lours.

I'revailiiig

1

01

Weather, aiiM

Aurora
visible.

other Remarks

1

Mean.

Highest

Lowest

Direction.

Force.

— 4().47

—36-50

—53-00

Calm. N.K.

3

IJrill*.

nine .sky.

2

—3003

—2700

—52-00

Calm. West. N.W.

6

Faint.

Clear Oven asi .
Misty. Hills
refracted.

3

—26-27

—23-00

—32-50

w.s.w. s.vv.

9

Faint.

Blue sky. Misiv
Parhelia.

1

-17-32

—11-00

—2900

Cahn. N.b.W. Calm.

3

Clear.

Blue sky. Si.lar

halo.
Overcast. Cloud v.

fj

—26-79

—17-50

—40-00

Calm. E.N.E.

I

Lunar halo.

6

4- 4-78

-}- 9-50

— 300

S.b.W.

8

Faint.

Snow. Variahjc
Drift. Halo.

7

+ 3-73

•f 12-50

— 800

Calm. N.E.

1

Cloudy and
squally. DiiK

8

—15-62

— 9-00

—28-00

Calm. East. Calm.

2

Faint.

Cloudv.

9

+ 7-40

4-11-50

-f- 1-50

N.W. Calm.

5

Overcast.

10

— 1-30

+ 6-00

— 7-50

Calm. N.E. Calm.

3

Overcast.

11

— 2-48

4- 7-50

—1500

E.N.E. Calm.

(i

Cloudy.

12

—19-29

— (iOO

—30-50

North. Calm.

i

Cloudy. .Mistv.
(The fall heard
distinctly. ^

1»

— 7-80

— 2'00

—2000

Variabl<<.

5.2

Cloudy. Clear.

11

— 2J-80

—13 00

—42-50

S.W. W.N.W. Calm

5

Faint.

Overcast. Clear.
(A cloud like
(he Aurora at
E.b.S.)

15

—40-68

—33-00

—51-50

W, Calm.

1

Faint.

Clue sky.

10

—43-05

—30-00

—55-50

N.W. Calm.

3

Clear.

Blue sky.

17

—29-68

—21-00

—4400

Calm. \N S.W. N.K.

5.3

Faint.

Clear. Overcast.
Snow.

IH

—35-22

—28-00

—4400

Calm. \N . Calm

i)

Clear.

Clear blue sky.

19

—30-41

-27-00

—39-00

vv.s w.

0.8

Faint.

Squally. Mislv.
(Hills refracted".'

20

—33-20

—2300

— 48-25

S.W. Clm. K.N.E.

2

Clear.

Blue sky. Hazy.

21

—44-04

—38-00

—5000

Calm. \Nest

;>

Faint.

('lear. (The water
from the river
overflows. )

22

—35 01

—27-00

—4550

S.W. Calm. We.st.

0

Clear.

Blue sky. Mislv.

23

—43-85

—29-75

-55-75

Cahn. N.E. (^alm.

0

Faint.

Clear. vDense
mist over the
river.) Cold
sensation.

24

-35-31

— -27-25

— 1800

Variable. Calm.

5

Faint.

Mi.sty. Clear.
(Fall very dis-
tinctly heard.'

25

-18-27

— soo

-4 3 50

W. .N.W. ('aim.

•2.5

Faint.

Cloudy. Overcast.
Clear Parhelia.

2«)

—1503

— 7-00

— 35-00

Calm. W.N.W. Calm.

()

Mright.

Clear.

27

—2533

—1200

—3900

Calm. W.S.W Calm

5

Clear.

Bine skv.

28

— 1460

— 5- 00

—29 00
-3553

Calm. Variable. Calm.

3

Faint.

Misty.

— 2332

— 11 78

1

Tei

m(

1 .a

15 T

1 !3

Mea

1

— 19

2

— 6

3

—12

4

—29

5
6

—20

-t- 1

APPENDIX.

'M)l

Abstrarf oj' MtHeoroloyical Journal for i\farrh, 1835,
kept at Fort Rdunicp.

Temperature ol'tlie At-

i .

mosphere, registered

Prevailing Winds.

1 J3

15 Times in the 24 Hours.

Prevailing

1 s

Weather, and
other Remarks

1

Mean.

Highest

Lowest

Direction.

Force.

Aurora
visible.

i

—19-43

— 7 50

—34-50

Cahn. N.W. Calm.

4

Clear.

Clear blue sky.

2

— fi 35

-f- 4-00

—35-00

Calm. .S.W.

0

Cloudy. Overcast.!
(River over-,
flowing its!
banks. ) 1

•3

—12 40

— 9 00

—23-00

Calm. W.b.X.

<

Clear.

Cloudy. Drift. 1
Clear blue sky. ^

4

—2906

—18-00

-43-50

Variahle. Calm.

ii

Clear.

5

— 2r>-75

— 16'50

— 44-00

Calm. N.E.

1

Faint.

Clear. Hazy.

6

-H 1 43

+ 1400

— 800

\ ariable. Calm.

.1

F aint.

.Snow. Overcast.

1 7

—12 48

— 500

—20-00

N.E.

7

Cloudy. Squally.
Hazy. Drift.

8

4- 308

-f- 12-00

— 9-00

N.E. Calm. E.I..N.

2.8

Overcast. Snow.
Squally Drift.

9

-f- 8-99

-fl3-00

+ 0-00

E.N.E.

10

Overcast. Misty.
Squally. Heavy
drift.

-H 1 15

+ !» 50

— 9-00

Calm. S.W. \V,

3.9

Overcast. Squally.

— 7-44

— 3.50

—19-00

Calm. N.E. Calm.

7

Cloudy and misty.

Drill.

12

—10-38

-f- 5-00

—35-00

W. N.E. Calm.

2.7

Snow. Cloudy.

\'.\

—•28-98

—18-00

—40-00

Variable. Calm. N.E.

5

Faint.

Clear blue sky. '

14

1

—28-41

-22-00

—3800

E. N.E.

3.7

Clear and squally,
with drift.

15

—28-84

— 1G50

—40-00

Calm. E.N.E.

5

Faint.

Clear blue sky.

16

—21-38

—14-50

-28-00

E.

8

Clear.

Overcast. Clear.
Drift.

17

—24-25

—15-00

—34-00

E. N E.

4.5

Faint.

Clear blue sky. '■

18

— 181G

— 8-00

—•26-00

Culm. N.E.

2

Faint.

Clear blue sky.j

aiills refracted.)

Meani

—14 79

—•20-00

1

I'

Total ob.scrvations for Temperature 5400.

I

:io2

APPENDIX.

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APPENDIX.

Ny. VII.

ON THE AURORA BOREALIS.

The observations on tliis phenomenon were made, without interruption, during
six months in the years 1833-34, and five months in the years 1834-35; but, as
their entire insertion would orcupy too much space here, I have selected chie(!y thr
instances possessing the greatest interest from the effect produced by them on the
needle, and from the brilliancy and eccentric motions of the coruscations. That the
needle was constantly affected by the appearance of the aurora, seems evident froni
the facts thus staled ; and, on one occasion, indeed, this effect exceeded eight de-
grees. I abstain, however, from drawing any inferences on this sul)ject ; and merely
note (lown carefully, and with as much precision as possible, the whole of the
phenomena.

Brilliant and active coruscations of the aurora borealis, when seen throv^.i a
hazy atmosphere, and exhibiting the prismatic colours, almost invariably affected
the needle. On the contrary, a very bright aurora, though attended by motion, and
even tinged with a dullish red or yellow, in a clear l)lue sky, seldom produced anj
sensible change, beyond, at the most, a tremulous motion.

A dense haze or fog, in conjunction with an active aurora, seemed uniformly
favourable to the disturbance of the needle ; and a low temperature was favourable
to brilliant and active coruscations. On no occasion, during two winters, was any
sound heard to accompany the motions.

The aurora was frequently seen at twilight ; and as often to the eastward as to
the westward. Clouds, also, were often perceived in the day-time, in form and
disposition very much resembling the aurora.

The observations are set down just as they were taken. I read off the arc ol
the needle, and Mr. King remained on the outside of the observatory, to infonn
me of the changes in the coruscations. Thj height of the arches was estimated by
the eye ; and their bearing by reference to the houses and other marks which had
been previously determined. The bearings are reckoned from the magnetic meri-
dian.

Rough Notes on the Aurora,

October 27th, 1833. — The needle evinced no particular agitation throughoiu
the day, except the same tremulous motion it displayed occasionally night and day.
At midnigb; <,l.e weather char,jed from an overcast to a blue an(' cloudy sky. The
moon T'\as clear, and the coruscations streamed in beams in the direction of the
dipping needle, and formed an undulating fringed arch, from a horse-shore shaped
mass, at N.N. W., iO' high to 70' northerly. This was met by two bright beams,
which issued fromE. N.E., 15" high. On entering the observatory I found the
needle vibrating, anu on the approach of the fringed arch towards the zenith, it im
<uediately attained to 1' 0' W,, and before Mr. King had informed me that beam

i

were dart
E. ; afterv
becoming
October
•20' E. :
endeavour
least vestij
ing fa rte
very brig
north side
rays, was
At IC'
.SO'E., bu
where it r
30' E., O"
stationary,
high, look)
to look to
white, thai
!iorse-shoe
attentively,
extending f
radial clou
brightness

On first
fifteen inch
cause; l)ut
tions ment

At noon J
most gentk
There were
of them CO
niarkad, wn

Not bein
braces ( wh
found the ri
to C 30' E

The weal
the white cl
not unlike
sometimes a
I found the
meter desce

At S* p.M

At 4'' it >
vatory + 1 1
scribed. A
when the m

December
breeze from
calm, and tl

I

APPENDIX.

307

were darting from the eastward, it had already begun to recede, and fixed at 1" 0'
E. ; afterwards, on the apparent motion of the aurora ceasing, and the coruscations
becoming faint, it settled at 0° 30' E.

October 28th. — At 8'' a. m. the needle was at !» 20' E. At 9'' I found it at 2«
20' E. : saw it move to 2" 50' E,, and being something surprised, 1 went oui io
endeavour to trace some cause for such a deviation. There was not, however, the
least vestige of a cloud, the sky being of an indigo colour at the zenith, and becom-
ing fa iter in tone till it mingled in a pale yellow near the horizon. The sun was
very bright, about lO" high, and bore E. \ S. (m)' The thermometer on the
north side of the observatory was -f- 4]", that on the south, exposed to thj sun's
rays, was -+- -4^° : the weather calm.

At IC* A. M. the needle wa'. agitated at 1" 30' E. ; at U^ I found it also at 1"
30' E., but in n^otion, which took it to 2* 0' E., then to 0" 20' E., to 0' 20' VV.,
where it remained ten seconds, and repassed to ()" 40'E., to 0" 0', 0° 10' E. to 0'
30' E., 0" 20' E., to 1« 0' E., i» 40' E., and flO 25' E. : when, seeming to be
stationary, I went out, and placing myself in the shade of a fir tree of thirty feet
high, looked directly to the zenith and to the westward ( the sun being too bright
to look to the eastward), when there appeared a very faint and filmy arch of pale
white, that issued from a mass of white cloud precisely similar in shape to th»
liorse-shoe mass of aurora of last night in the ?:ime place ; and on watching more
attentively, I could see a very pale yellow arch rising from the same mass, and
extending southerly to S. E. i,y S., at an angle of 30". Afterwards, several detached
radial clouds became visible, and more than once I thought they differed much in
))rightness in the s?mc point.

On first seeing the needle move, it occurred to me that, though distant from it
fifteen inches, the steel in the works of the two chronometers might possibly be the
cause; but on my remaining motionless for ten minutes, it went through the vibra-
tions mentioned above.

At noon it was still considerably agitated, but steadily, not jerking, and with thn
most gentle motion it went from 1" 0' E., to O" 20' W., and settled at 0" 0'.
There were now many more clouds of the same pale wliite filmy form; the whole
of them coming from the same mass at W. N. \V. , while the wind, it may be re-
markad, was E. b. S.

Not being satisfied respecting the chronometers, I left them together with my
braces ( which had a small polished buckle on «"acu ;, in my tent, and at 1' p. m.
found the needle tolerably steady at 0" 10' E. ; but while 1 was looking, it moved
to C* 30' E., toO" 10' E., to O" 0', and I left it at 0» 30' E.

The weather v;as fine, the sun less brigiit ihan in the jarlier part of the day, and
the white clouds had become of a more /ellowish tint, and diffused in three arches
not unlike a common form of exhausted .nirora, or that appearance it assumes
sometimes after very rapid motion. At 2'' p.k , having the chronometers on i>s usual,
I found the needle steady at 0" 18' E. The sun was less dear, and the ti:ermo-
ineter descending. Clouds white, generally diflused.

At S'' P.M. it altered from 0" 5' E. to G' 10* E., and was tremulous.

At 4'' it was steady at C" 10' E. Thermometer in the air 0', and in the obser-
vatory -|- 15^° ; weather fine with light clouds, much the same as those already de-
scribed. Atf)'' a beam rose from the W.N.VN., and shot up towards the zenith,
when the needle moved from ( « 2' W. to C 30' W.

December 6th. — The weather had been overcast all day, with snow, and a strong
breeze from S.W. Thermometer from -f- I'H 'f» 4--''. when at 7' p.m. it became
calm, and the thermometer immediately fell to — I".

• All the hearings arc iiiai^nctic.

s

I

w

• I

!' I

J

ill

;i(tH

AFPKNDIX.

At midnight therr» was a light air from E., a clrar sky, and the aurora was gp-
iicrally diffused. The thermometer had fallen to — 11", and on examination the
needle was vihratii.'^ from I" "ia' W. Amass of aurora appeared at E., and it moved
to C 40' E., l" 20' '=;., (.* 4:i' E., and became stationary at 35' and 40' E. Some
beams darted up froii W., and the needle returned to C 5' E. The aurora was
then generally diffused, and rather faint, when the marked end remained at G<' 0'.

A beam at N. E. caused i* to move l" 10' E., where it stood a few seconds, hut
on some more beams uniting, so as to form a mass at N.E., the needle directly
moved to i" 20' E. Again, the mass was diffused in a fdmy form from E. to VV'.b.
S. and the marked end retro^'rad-d to l» 0*. Another change to a concentrated
mass at E.N.E. took it from 3b' to IS' E. The aurora again became spread, and
the'needle was stationary at G* 'u'.

December lith. — At 10'' p. m. the weather was gloomy, overcast, and calm, but
from the unusual brightness at a lime of new moon, and the distinctness with which
objects appeared, there was every reason to suppose the aurora was then very
brilliant above the clouds. On entering the observatory I saw the needle vibrating
rapialy to the westward, and having taken the time, le"" 37" C», chronometer
number I., 1 watched it move from l» 10' E. to i." -it,' \V., to 10' E. to 2» 5(,' \V.,
to C« 40' W.. to S« 53' \V., to (0 S' E., to i^ 30' W., to 20' E., to 'i" 30' W., to
O" OS' E., to 2« 30' W., to GO 40' W., *o i<> 50' W., to 1« '-^0' W., to ^^o 20' W., >
10 10' W., to 20 4->' \v., to 10 55' W., to i" 58' \V., to lo 58' V.\, to i\ ( "'■
to f.o 5' W., 10 J,o 00' \V., to -.0 r,0' W., to '^o 20' \V., to 5.0 8' W., to i* 30' \,., to
I" 35' AV., where it remained stationary five seconds, and vibrated quickly to
|0 2S' W., to io 10' w., to 10 45' \V., to lO 58', to lO 05' W., to lO 10' W., to
(,o 40' W., to CO 55' W., to CO 18' E., to C' 20' E., where it again became stationar\
only seven seconds, then moved slowly to 00* 00', still slower to CO 20' W., to OQO
00', to OGO 15' W., to GO lo' E., to 0C« 00', to 0" 12' E., to CO 12' W., to CO 5' W.,
and quicker to OO 48' W., to lO 12' W., to lO 05' W., at which point it was steady
three seconds, when it moved to GO 58' W., to 1" 28' VV., to 1" 08' VV., to !« 2s'
OGO \V.. to 10 08' VV., to 10 28' W., to l" 08' W., to !« 15' W ., to C* 58' \V., to 1» 08'
W., to GO 58' W'., to 10 01)', where it remained stationary at IG'' 52" OC", making
an interval of fifteen minut'S. 1 remained there a quarter of an hour longer, and
it vibrated with diminished force between lO 00' W., and G" 30' W.

January 7th, 1834. — For nearly a month the needle had not been perceived to
be affected by (he aurora, which it may be proper to observe was always very faint,
apparently high, and generally confined to one point of the heavens.

Its motion was rarely delected, though, from some discrepancies in the diurnal
course of the needle, such an occurrence may be inferred. At IC" p. m. this night,
the sky was nearly entirely obscured, except at the northern and western horizons
above the hills. At the former were some bright rays, and at the latter a brilliant
streaming mass of a reddish coloured aurora, which, as I went to the observatory,
flitted across the zenith to the eastward.

The needle was moving quickly, and having marked it at oO 30' E., I ran for Mr.
King to watch the motion (A' the aurora'; and noting the time by chronometer (IT'
3C» Of , I saw the needle move from 50 30' E. to 'J 00' E., lo OO 40' E., to lO 20'
t., to 00 10' W., to GO 10' E., to 10 40' E., a large mass darted up from S.W., and
faded into the tone or colour of (he sky at the zenith : 'i" 35' E. to 1" 10' E., a
beam from east to west, passing northerly at an angle of 8G0 : 1* 50' to 1° 40' ^., a
high horizontal narrow mass at an angle of l^o E. : 1" 35' E., 2" 15' E., lO 25' E.,
20 20' E., 10 00' E., -20 05'E., ic 3^' g., abeam shot up from north, and, dividing
itself into three branches, extended (0 the S. W. horizon at an angle of 25* : '.0 OO' E.
to 10 35' E., to GO 50' E.. to G« 35' E,, to l" 10' E., to i" 30' E,, a large mass

I ''

APPCNDIX.

:!og

«

fioiii west lo south: it" OU' E., i," 10' E., 1° 55' E., oonceiiti'aled lu.iss due south,
ill inaguetical meridian : needle nearly steady at 1" 40' E., 'i" 00', steady live se-
conds : 1" 30' E., to i.* 05' E., a beam from N.E. to N., l" 30' E. : needle moved
slowly to 1" 05' E., C 05' E., a beam N.E. : to 1° 10' E., to 0° 3n' W., to GO 40 E.,
to C« 22' W., to 1« 40' E., and stopt suddenly at f," .»' E., to 1" 30' E.. beam from
east to west: 'i" 0' E , to Oi," 00', to C 05' E., to C" 2>' W ., corona at zenith:
1« 20' W., to 00 40' W., to GO 05' \V., to l" 35' W to lO IC' W ., to J 40' W., small
concentrated mass over the observatory: lo 'j'l' \V., to i" 5 ' W., to io 0' W.,
iidiTow arch from N.E. tozenith: £0 50' W. slowly to 1' .50' VV., much slower to
2" 50' W., l" 30' \V., to 2" 00' VV., a bright beam expanded into a narrow horizon-
tal mass, 10° high, from cast to west: 1° 40' \\. to 2° 05' VV'., beams from S.E.
to N.N.E. ; 1" 25' VV. to 1" 45' VV., some imund patches from E. to N.W. : needle
steady a few seconds, then moved to 1" 'iO' W., to !• 45' VV., 1° 36' VV., steady
again, ther. to z" 12' VV., to !• 50' VV., to 2" 05' VV., slowly to !• 54', to 1» 10'
VV., to2» 05' VV., to 1" 30' VV-, to P 40' W., where it remained steady fifteen
seconds, and changed to 10 38' W., to !» 4C' VV.. to lO 35' VV., lo lO 45' VV.,
stationary at l' 2C' VV., and finally settled very slowly at lO OG' W. The lime v-m
then r**" 54"" 15», making an elapsed time of 24"* 15'

On returi.iug to the house, I remarked the total disappearance of the aurora
with the exception of a filniv lii;ht at E.b.N., and VV. With it had vanished the
dense covering of tiie sky, wbicli was now of a dark blue colour, and studded
with twinkling stars. The thermometer in the air was — 22^", and in the observ-
atory— 1G°, and there was a light breeze from VV. N.W. At 11 •■ there was no
.luror;,.

.January 14th — At Oh a.m. mean of thcpmoinetcrs — 5'. ' ; the sky clear in the
zenith, but misty about the hori>:on. Needle 0» 58' E., slightly vibrating. .-Vs the
hun rose above the adjacent mountain, it began to move between 1" 40' and .50' E.

At IC"" P.M. thermometer — 55% sky deep Hue, we;ither < Miii. The aurora was
generally diffused from rays at N.W.b.N., and Mb.S. to an attenuated arch acros.s
the zenith, emanating from N.E.b.E,, and extending to VV. 15ut IVom the same
point, and as far as due east, rose a clear serpentine beam which took a southerly
direction at an angle of 25", andterminated in an obtuse point at VV.8.VV ., 3" high.
Souip wreaths, and four very singularly shaped beams, were for a time apparenHy
Stat! ; ii>y at E.N.E,, and E., the latter almost at right angles to the arch.

''(i\c r-if-edlc was perfectly steadyat 0^ 12' E., but on returning to the house, I could
. ' c'.ivemarking a dull reddish beam that darted up from E.b.N., and to which
. . J'.' yr near it seemed attracted. It increased in brightness at its nearest point
lo tb'. h iriziMi, which was about 8" high. The we.stern part of the arch previously
mciftioHCi) ,jeca:r<c taint, and though distinctly pcrcepliiile, yet it was evident by its
streaming tov\ aids the red beam that it was concentrating at the east. I imme-
diately returned to the needle, and fonnd it had changed from 0' 12' E Jo 0° 24'
E., where it ii iined, as did the aurora also in the same place.

January loth. — At I'' p.m., on looking at tlie iiecUe it appeared to be staiionarv
at 0" 8' W ., but on continuing to look, witi.dut altering ray position, I could deteil
it moving with the utmost steadiness, and so gently as would have escaped com
nion ob.servation : it was a full minute in retrograding lo tl" DO', and it again
tdvaiiced to 0 ' 5' VV. '''he weather was almost calm, or there might be said to br
iP li'rbU'st air from E.N.H.; the sky was Itliie, perfectly clear andllie sun so bright,
AS to mane Ifi' dilTerence belueen the thermometer exposed to its rays an<l that in
the shade, which was — !(•". A.t 1 wished to convince myseif if my own person liad
not caused the motion, llioiigh I inuld not see bow it should, .since the motion wa.>
norizontnl, and my po.siiinn w.is in almost a diirt i line with the avis of the nerdb .

' ii.

fii't

1: :ini'

310

AIM'KNDIX.

I applied my linger to the glat>s immediately before and on a level with tlic needle,
and the instantaneous etlect was that of a violent perpendicular, or what 1 have hi-
therto called a tremulous, action, which dipped half the depth of the needle below
the gratuated arc of the instrument. This did not affect the reading, which was
still the same, viz. C 5* W.

It may be observed, that the late intense cold had chapped my hands to a painful
degree, and I had greased them a few hours previous to observing the needle.

February 9th.— At IG"" 'iO" p.m. the sky was almost entirely convered with corus-
cations; but the most conspicuous was a broad serpentine and bright arch extendiiij;
from E.b.N. to W.b.S., and along which there appeared at times to be two curreiitx
in active motion from opposite points.

1 found the needle vibrating steadily as follows : — i," 20' E., motion of aurora
from W. to E. : COS' E., motion W. : l" 20' W., undulating motion \\. : G" or>'
W., 0G« 00', motion W. to E. across the zenith: C 20' E , a bright arch at E., 10''
broad: C 10' E., slight motion over the zenith, then the motion was from W. to
the zenith, OG" GO' : serpentine motion across zenith from \V. to E.. G' 40' E.,
0*30' E. : motion over zenith, 0° 10' E. : motion from W. to E., not beyond zenith,
OG" 00'. Ti' :" '«' irch now moved southerly, at an angle ofSG", and at the same
time there was 'it mass at S.E., G" 20' E. : Hashes flitting suddenly between

S.E. and E., coil. , 1" 20' E.

Motion over zenith from W. to E., G" 20' E. to 1° 00' E., generally diffused aiul
very active : an undulating mass at N.E., 2* 'Hi' to G" 20' E. : bright mass at S.E,,
G" 40' E. to GO 20' E. : generally diffused but still bright at S.E., G« lO' VV. .
beams at W., G^iS' \V. : beams at N.E., 0G° 00' : serpentine waving across zenith
from W. to E., in an arch, OG" OO' to G» 25' E. : OG" OO', mass westward.

Mass at W., extending easterly, wth a rapid motion from W . to E., 1" OO' E., to
G" 30' E., l" 10' E., to G» 35' E. : a bright mass at E, l"* 20 E. : motion W. to E.,
10 00' to OG" 30' E. : l" 30' E. to GO 35' E., a waving band, motion over zenhh'
little motion, G' 20' E. : patches generally ditfused, OG" OO'.

Corona at zenith, which changed into six figures, each similar to the letter S,
presenting the appearance of so many snakes twisting with amazing swiftness.
OGO 00' to 00 15' \\ . : no motion, flO 05' E. ; patches W.to E., southerly, G" 35' E.
G" 30' E, : no motion, G* 20' E., stationary. Elapsed time, ai". At the termina-
tion, the aurora was generally diffused N. and S.; streaky, motionless, and dull.
Thermometer — ^1%" ; calm ; sky, blue.

February 10th. — At lO"" p.m. there was an extremely brilliant arch of a serpen-
tine form exte.. iing from W.b.S. to E.b.N., but there was no motion, and the
needle was unaffected beyond lO', viz. from GO 40' toG" 3i.' E. At 11'' 10"°, how-
ever, tiie aurora assumed an amazing variety of forms, though the most imposing was
a fringed andziz-zag'd undulating arch, composed of numberless bright rays in the
direction of the dipping needle, but flitting with incredible swiftness in a lateral
direction from \\ . to E.

From GO 40' E. to G* 05' W ., motion \V. to E. : lO 0' t., (,o iW E., OGO oo', no
visible motion : GO 20' E., motion E. to W. : GO 30' E. to G* 05' \V., rays appcarinn
and disappearing, motion W , to E. : GO 25' W., G" 15' E., motion E. to \V. : G* ^0'
E. to GO Ih' \V., no niotiou: CO 05' W., waving arch S.W. to E. : (O 45* W., G"
5i* W., OO 10' , bright arch S.E., generally diffused: needle remained stationary
:,«: (lO 10' E., OG" 00', little movement of needle, faint corona at zenith: GO OS'
\V.,G0 30' VV., GO 25' W., slowly to G" 40' W., G045' W., arch \V. lo E., at an angle
of 3(,o northerly : (.o 45' VV., almost stationary, a beam S. : GO 45' VV., ()0 52' W.,
stationary: CO 50' VV., 0« 58' VV,, arch W to E.b.N. : C" OO VV., steady. Elapsed
lime, 2i'", Therinomclcr, air — 2^o in observatory — 1; o- weather, calm ; sky, blue.

APPENDIX.

»11

E.

thill

On going out from the needle, 1 observed the southern portion of the heavens (o
be more or less occupied by beams, and rays at right angles to them, or in the mag-
netic position of due north and south. But northwards, at an angle of 10* N. E.,
was a bright waving double band, which also formed a part of the same original
arch that extended from E. N. E. to VV. b. S.

The increasing brilliancy of ihe double band induced mc to revisit the needle,
supposiu. lat I should find it somewhere near 00" 00' or zero; but, so far from
this, it had not moved, and remained still steady at 0^ 55' W. : from it might be
inferred a negative or repulsive action, in opposition to our former opinions, men-
tioned in Franklin's last narrative, of an attractive or positive action to the nearest
hituated aurora. The brightness of the band remained the same on my return to
the house.

March 8th. — For many days past the needle had evinced a restlessness and
vibrating action corresponding to its motion when affected by the aurora; but as
in some cases it had changed its position, though with less acceleration, after the
sun had risen, and become stationary after it had set, I have been at a loss to
account for its unusual activity, the whole of these twenty-four hours in particular,
except by supposing the invisible presence of the aurora in full day.

The sky was blue and clear, with a few clouds of lleecy whiteness, and at each
time of observing, I found it impossible to detect the faintest moving substance in
the heavens : still, however, the needle kept coisstantly making unecfual arcs, and
I watched it in the hope of seeing it assume some fixed ])oint, until 1 was fairly
I tired out. At T"" p. m., it being " twilight gray," but with a purplish blue tint

I over head, a very faint reddish aurora could be with dilTiculty distinguished. This

I' became more clear as the night darkened, and at 9'' 44" 00' p. m., some clouds at

S. W. and E. were illuminated exactly similar to the effect produced by the moon
when rising. The needle was agitated, and wioved only 15' backward and forward,
insomuch that I told Mr. King, who was waiting outside the observatory, that there
was no occasion for him to stay ; but when 1 was about to return to the house, 1
perceived some very thin filmy rays flit with great swiftness from S. S. W., at an
angle of 18", to E. b. S. : here they became united with the illumined part, which
they seemed to set into immediate and violent motion; at the same instant the
S. S. VV. quarter was left in darkness, while the eastern glowed in one brilliant mass
of whirling aurora. Having called to Mr. King, I ran to the needle, which was
movin;; very qyickly to the eastward. It went from 0" 10' E. at once to '2=' 0' E.,
to 2" 15' E., to 3° 10' E., arch E. to S. \V. across the zenith : i* 40' to 2° 05'
E., beam S. W. : i* 50', luminous in the south : 3* 10' E., arch E. to S. W.,
motion S. W. to E. : 3° 00' to 3« 18', arch E. to S. VV. over zenith : 1° 55' E.,
arch in motion S. W. to E. over zenith, 1' 30' E. : arch S. VV. to N. E. across
zenith, L" 25' E. : i" 20' E,, ;;<> 15' E., arch S. VV. to E. over zenith, and another
S. W. to S. E., at an angle of SO" : 'J 30' E. to v« lO' E., 4" OO' E.. iiO 15' E. arch
over zenith : 1" 55' E., motion S. W, to E. : 1» 20' E., i" 10' E., 1« 40' E., 5i« 40'
E., !» 40' E., 4» 10', motion W. to N. E. : :.» HO' E. to P 50' E., 2« 30' E., motion
due E. along the same arch : 0" 55' E., 1° 30' E., G» 35' E., I" 50' E., (-• 30' E.,
1« 25' E.,(,o 10' W., 1« 15' E.,C» 05' E., 1» 28' E., a very irregular arch S. W.
^ to E., at an angle of 450 : (.» 20' E., (,» 40' W., 00« OO', l" 40' W., 1» 40' VV., l"

00' W., l" 50' VV., 1" 10' W., luminous appearances generally dillused in patches;
ti" 3(t' VV., bright at W. S. VV. : l" OO' E., a concentrated mass at the zenith, mo-
tion southerly to the horizon : G" 50' E. 00° 00', the mass travelling south : 0" 20
E., (,'' 10' W., a" 2(/ E.,^ 10' V\'., C« 25' E., (,» OS' W., (,» 20' E., (.» 2S' VV ^
faint, no motion: 0" 10' VV.,0" 40' VV., 0° 20' VV , O" 50' E., I" 00' E., ma^'s
W. S. W. : 0"' 5(t' E., when it was stationary five seconds, and then movdl

I

111

k

i

lif

k

w

:il2

APPENDIX.

slowly to 0" 10' E., 0° 50' E. stationary five seconds, 0" 30' E., 0» 45' E., QO 30',
E., 0<i 50' E , luminous appearance S. .S, E. : 0» 28' E., G» 12' W. luminous ap.
pearancc from S. S. E. to E. S. E., at an angle of 15" : G» 05' E., C 35/ E., o« 15'
E.,0» 40' E., 0" 50' E., 0« 40' t , GO 55' E., O" 40' E., 1« 00' E., light appearances
from W. to N. : overcast; 0« 30' E., t" 40' E., C 20' E., C 30' E., &« 05' E,,
0» 25' E., 0' 20' E. Here I finished, and, on going out, found the sky overcast,
though some few stars were just visible. The aurora was then so faint, that the
feeble light from a lantern witli one pane of glass prevented my seeing it ; but, as
the needle was still in motion, I naturally conceived there must be some cause for
it, and having concealed the light by placing the lantern under my cloak, I could
then barely make out a very filmy arch at S. VV., which, however, soon vanished.
The temperature outside was — 14", inside — 4* ; calm and overcast.

Time at beginning 10'' 09"" 00'

ending Ki 33 40

Interval 00 24 40

April 4th. — For the last three weeks th*c appearance of the aurora has been
faint, and with comparatively little motion. The needle in consequence has been
less affected in the extent of the sum of its arcs, though, as may be seen by a re-
ference to the register, is has seldom been completely stationary. Sometimes I
have remarked a quick vibratory motion of unequal arcs during the day, the ex-
tremes of which will be found to be always noted in their proper columns ; at
others, a much weaker action has been exerted, when the needle has remained a
few seconds at its extreme eastern or western limit, then receded perhaps 10',
advanced 5', and again deflected beyond its zero : and, finally, there were times
when its motion was so slow, even, and regular, that a hasty observer would un-
•loubteuly consider it to have been steady ; though, by keeping the eye to the
telescope, it would be seen to alter its position 5' or 8^ but, as I have just re-
marked, with such an extremely gentle action, that it might have easily escaped
detection.

At 10'' p. M. this day, I was struck by an unusual brightness of the snow when 1
went out of the house, and on turning round perceived that it was the effect of a
brilliant arch extendl-.g from the N. E. to the opposite horizon. The sky was of a
pale blue, the stars visible, but a thin veil of mist dimmed their brightness.

At 16'' 24'" 00^ l)y chronometer the needle showed the following differences : —
From 1" 40' E. to l" 30' E., arch E. to S. \V., across the zenith : 1» 38' E., l" 45'
F.., concentrated mass at the zenith, and patches E.to S. W. : 1" 20' E., 1" 45' E.,
bright at E. S. E. : !<> 55' E., l" 51' E., arch E. to zenith : 1" 30', arch E. to W. at
at an angle of 10" '^southerly) : 1" 30' E., 1" 45' E., corona at the zenith : 1" 40' E.,
convolving circular mass at E., 1" 30' E., mass travelling S. W. : 1 ^ 40' E., steady
for a lew seconds, bands generally diffu.sed: 1" 5U' E., bright to the eastward;
z" 00' E., i" 05' E. slight motion S. W. to E. : i" 25' E., serpentine motion over the
zenith : brighter to the westward, 1" 30' E., 1" 40' E, : a waving arch over the
zenith E. to W., travelling S. W. at a latitude of 450, a" 5' E. : motion S. W., a
circular band, l" 55' E.: N. VV. bright, 1" 30' E., 1" 45' E. : an arch from N. W.
to S. VV. at angle of 40 ^ l* 25/ E., 1« 40' E. : motion westward, 1« 20/ E. : 1« W
E., 1« 50' E., an arch from N. E. to the zenith, i" 15' E., 2" 0' E., 2' 20' E. : mass
westerly, 2" 0' E. : the needle now became very tremulous, 1", 45' E., 1 " 15' E. :
mass faint to the W ., 1"35' E , T 21' E., T 3S' E., 1" 28' E., 1° 12' E., 1 ' 25' E.,
1" 33' E. : mass brightening to the westward, 1" IC E,, 1' 20' E., 1 "02' E. : mass
U. S.W. to N., at an anglt of 3U". 1 ■ li' E.. V OF' E., 1" 45' E., 1" 20' E., 1" 35'

. 4(1' M
very fain
generally
0" 50' E.
W. S. ^
faded aw

Tempe
weather,
westerly
aurora ; a
something
" There
probably
this daily
instrumen
first motio

Noveml
became st
aurora, in
which latt<
and not u
S. ; a few
the zenith,
needle, I f
4" 00' VV.
rose from I
i" 40' W.,
to zenith,
1«4C'\V.,
aurora fain
/ VV., 1"
W.,2« 10'
W ., to i" 5
I0« to 20" i
i" 20' VV.,
5i» 5C' VV., <i
\V., 2" 50f
i" 35' VV.,
E. to E. , ui
at an angle
obscured tl
W\ 1" 52'
angle of 11
l» 05' VV.,
visible in ll

H., 1' 10' E., 1" 28' E., 0" 5S' E., 1 • 15' E., (,« 48' E,, Oo

55' E., 0" 20' E. : a

small patch al S. E., 0" l.V E., 0" 05' E , 0" 15' E., 0" 0.V E., 0' 20' E., 0" 04' W

Thermou

APPENDIX.

318

y 4C' W., the sky >vas oveicaiit ; the little of the aurora that was discernible wa»
Tcry faint and without motion : 0' li' W., 0" 48' W., bands at S. E. : 0" 10' W.,
generally diffused: O- Os'jW., 0" 25' VV., 0" 08' W., patches S. VV. and S. E. :
0" 50' E., 0" '26' E., this last vibration was very slow , arch passing from E. S. E. to
W. S. W. across the zenith: 0" 10' E., where it became steady, and the aurora
faded away.

Time at beginning le"" b'i" 20'

ending IG 24 00

Interval 28 20

Temperature of the air, + 57° ; of observatory, -f- 17. Sky, pale blue, misty ;
weather, calm. 1 may mention that the needle invariably moved easterly or
westerly some seconds before Mr. King could perceive an> change in the
aurora ; and which frequently occasioned me to call out, " I'm sure there must be
something moving," '• Look S. VV." i^c., and as frequently have I had an answer,
" There is nothing but a faint beam S. W., E.," ^:c. ; which, in point of fact, was
probably the very cause of the excitement of the needle. I should not have stated
this daily occurrence, except for the purpose of showing the nice delicacy of the
instrument, and the dilFiculty the outside observer will always have in detecting the
lirst motion of the aurora.

November 7th. — The needle had been vibrating all day until 1^ v. m., when it
became steady at 0'' 45°' : however, the whole sky was more or less covered with
aurora, in the form of beams, spiral and fringed bands, rays, and brilliant masses,
which latter flitted to the opposite extremes of W. S. VV. and E. b. N. alternately,
and not unfrequently made tangential movements from near the zenith to N. and
S. ; a few streaky but extremely attenuated narrow clouds were in a position across
the zenith, and a black mass was slowly rising from the westward. On visiting the
needle, I found it in rapid motion from i" 00' VV. to &" 40' VV., to 4<> W W., to
4° OC VV., a beam shot up from S. V\ . : 'iO 30' VV., Hitting motion E. and VV . : a mass
rose from the western horizon to 71" altitude, 1" 50' VV . : a bright mass westward,
li" 40' W., which afterwards formed a fringed band from N. to W. : arch from S.
to zenith, 1" 50' W. : to i" 3C' VV., beams from a luminous mass VV. to zenith :
10 W W., abright beam S. : faint motion N. to VV. : ^0 40' VV., l" 30' W.,^" 40' VV.,
aurora faint, slight motion S. VV. : l" .50' VV., mass W., '^o 3iK VV., 1» 50' VV ., i«
' VV., 1" 35' W., beam north : '*" GO' VV., 1" ii' VV., no aurora westerly : I" 30/
VV., 2« 10' VV., a beam N. : 1» 40' W., "J 00' VV., 'J 10' VV., a band E. to \. : i" 00'
W., to i" 50' VV., '.i" 05' V\ ., "i" 40' W., Ii" 05' VV., an irregular fringed band from
10» to 2G" altitude, with a movement from E. to VV. : S« Oa' VV., faint : it" 40' VV.,
i» 20' VV., pencilled rays at E. b. N,, motion E. and VV. alternately : 'J 00' VV.,
i" 5C' VV., '40 20' vV., '2" 45' VV., bright at \. : -i" 30' W., S" 55' VV , 2« 35' \V., 3« 00'
W., 2" 50r W., to 3" 00' VV., a bright band from E. to N. stationary, become faint :
i« 35' VV., motion E. toN. : i" 10' VV ., i" 30' VV., needle steady : a faint band E. N.
E. to E., moving slowly between "i" 30' W., .nid 3" 00' VV. : a small band at E.,
at an angle of 15«, 2« 40' VV ., •;« 2-i' VV., a* 30' V\ . : a cloud from VV. gradually
obscured the band, 'i" 00' W., l" 50' VV., 2« O.V VV., l" 18 VV., i« OC, l" 4.V
W. 1" 52' W., l" Id' VV. needle tremulous: 1° 30' W., E. b. N. to N. E., at an
angle of 15" only : a patch N. E. on blue sky, 1" 25' W., 1" 10' VV., .s(ationar\ at
I" 05' VV., band disappeared. The stars were bright in the clear spaces, Imt noi
visible in the aurom.

Time at ixginning 15'' 57'" 05'

ending 1(> I'J 00

Interval 21 55

Thermometer, obsor\alory, 4- 2(i", air. 4- 21". \N iiid s \N . 5. .\i Hi'' 10"' 00'

51

^1

f ■

««l

3J4

APPENDIX.

I

the sky was overcast, no stars, but eight liiininouB spots were seen at N., at an
angle of 15", and a luminous horizon at W. S. \V.

November 2l8t. — The needle had been steady the greater part of the day, and
at lO"" r. M, it was 0" 12' E. At midnight the coruscations presented a beautiful ap-
pearance of concentric pencilled wreaths, convolving near the zenith; while fringed
and undulating bands, composed o*' innumerable small rays, flitted from W. b. \.
to E. At the last point they would sometimes concentrate into one brilliant radiat-
ing mass, and in an instant shoot out into multiform and eccentric shapes towards
the zenith, while vivid rays of a perceptible deep red and yellow colour danced in
spiral lines to the opposite horizon. On going to the observatory, the needle was
in active motion ; I found it at C^ 3C' W., the principal mass of aurora being also
in that quarter ; the motion of some rays at the time being from W. to E. It suc-
cessively changed from 0° 30' \V., to 0" fjC W., to O" 15' W. : a bright irregular
arch from VV. to zenith, 0° 50' W : many rays and Hashes at E., 1° C W. to 0" 30'
W., to 1 " 10' W. : a bright mass at VV., but without motion, I" 40' VV. to 1 " 4,'',' W . :
mass in motion from VV. to zenith, 1" 0' W.,to 1" 30' VV. : a faint irregularly fringed
arch, extending from E. across the zenith to S. V\., 0' 40' VV. to 1" 25' W., to
O" 52' W. : a faint mass without motion from VV. to S. W.. G« 45^ VV., l" 05' W. :
concentric arches from \V. to zenith, 0" 35' VV.,0'' 50' VV., toO" 30' W. : a faint
irregular mass from VV. to S. W., 0<> 30' V\'., to 0° 55' VV., O" 40' VV., 0» 55' W.,
to 0« 40' VV., 0« •).')' VV., and rested at O" 40' \V.

Time at beginning IS'i OTf" GOt

ending 18 14 30

Interval 7 30

Thermometer, observatory, -j- 22", air, -1-25" ; wind, S. VV. 6 ; weather clear, moon
visible.

December 3d. — The needle had been steady all day, and ht '!'' p.m. it was
0« OS' E. At lO'' P.M. there was a bright display of the aurora in the form of un-
dulating bands, composed principally of connected rays, and many beams as well as
(lashes were plentifully dispersed. The needle moved from 20' VV.,to 1" 00' \V.,
rays over the zenith : to 0° 20' VV., motion VV. to E. : C» 15' E., to 05' E., to 0»
30' E. to 0" 00', mass W. to E. : an arch over zenith, 0» 22' E. : a serpentine
arch over zenith, C« 28' E., C 00' -.a bright band over zenith, 0* la' E. to 0" 12'
VV. : some bright beams from VV., O" 20' VV. : mass VV. to E., 0° 00' to 0° 25' VV". :
needle steady at 0" 20' \V. : bright at extremes of band VV. and E., 0"35' VV.: bright
atW., 1" 20' VV. : rays Hitting from VV. to N., 1° 30' VV. : bright mass from W.
to N., 1° 25' VV. to C" 56' W. : beams in active motion all round, and bright at VV.
l" 15' W., serpentine arch over zenith : mass from N. towards zenith at an angle of
6C», 0» 30' VV. to l" 00' W. : motion W. to E., and F. to VV.,0» 20' VV. to G« 45'
VV. : motion VV. to E., C» 55' VV. : bright mass at E., 0° 2^.' VV. to (i° 50' \V. :
motion \V. to E., 0» 3h' VV., to 1» 00' VV., to 0" 35' VV., to O" 35' VV. ; bright r;iys
N.VV., !• 20' W, : arch VV. to S., 0» 55' VV. to I» IC V\., to 0» 45' W. : arch VV.
to S.E. over zenith, 0° 4';i' W. : bright mass at E,, O" 40' VV., O" 32' W., to O" 45'
VV. : generally diffused, steady at 2" 40' VV.

Time at beginning iC- 09" 00*

ending 16 21 30

Interval 12 30 "

Thermometer, observatory, — 2'/, air, — Sh". Weather, calm and tine.

December 18th.— At lO*" p.im.. on going to the needle, which, from its having
been steady at zero at)'' p.m. , and atO" 10' VV. at '5'' p.m., I expected to find at
/rro again, i was surprised to observe, on the contrary, that it was at 1° 50' W'.,

APPENDIX.

315

at nil '•"fill which it moved to 1' 25' VV. nd then continued to vibrate gently between

that and l" 35' W. The Hky was perfectly clear, with the exception of a horizon-
tal light cloud due N.,but which had not the appearance of those dark gray or
light filmy clouds, that seemed on certain occasions to influence the needle. The
moon was bright, and as I had, according to custom, looked carefully for aurora
without detecting any before entering the observatory, I was the more puzzled to
account for such an eccentric movement in the needle, without any apparent dis-
turbing cause. At the moment it occurred to me, that the clear shining of the
moon, which was at N.E., and the fineness of the night altogether, might prevent
ine from distinguishing any rays or beams that might nevertheless be flitting about.
1 therefore looked again from different points around the observatory, but without
perceiving the least vestige of aurora, and consequently thought it might be attribu-
tahle to the continuance of the westerly wind; for during its prevalence, for three
days past, the needle had shown a disposition to keep to that quarter : but on
getting in the dark shade of tht house on my return, I immediately saw two red-
dish rays and a long slender beam at S.W. projecting towards the zenith, neither
of which was visible in the moonlight or out of the shade. This appeared to
answer for the deflection of the needle, and to give some clue to its frequent dis-
turbance during the day, as has been already noticed.

Decemher 21st. — The needle had been moving almost all day, the weatlier
extremely cold to the sensation owinp to a fresh breeze from S.\^., attended by a
gloomy and misty atmosphere. There was more or less aurora at T* p.m., and 10'',
l)ut at midnight it exhibited one of the most brilliant appearances 1 ever remember
to have witnessed, displaying at the same time a remarkably deep /w/c-coloured
tinge, that became graduated into orange and faint yellow, which seemed to vanish
into pale tuhite.

To give any thing like a correct idea of phenomena jierpetually ahcring their
form, and presenting several striking appearances, at the same instant of time,
must be dilYtcuit, though perhaps it may be requisite to state that there were two
connecting /JOin<s at E. and W.b.S., from and to which the great current flowed in
various shaped arches, fringed and irregular, or composed of rays, or beams, or
streaming in a quick and regular flow, or moving in spirals, < r, lastly, thrown into
collateral parts, which of a sudden would dart at a tangent tDwards the northern
or southern horizon, become dispersed into separate, and to' the eye uncon-
nected parts, and then with the speed of thought concentrate once more at W.
and E.

The needle I found moving with a velocity which must have taken it against the
sides of the instrument, had not a counter-influence in the rapid and eccen-
tric tracks of the aurora prevented it. It went from C 30' E. to 1° 00' E., to
CO 40' E., 1» 00' W., C 00' to (,« 40' W'.; bright at \V. C" 5' W., motion at W., 0'
20' E.; moving N. from W., l" 00'; motion across the zenith from W. to V. , C
30' W., 00 CC; bright bands from \\ , to E., r,o 4O' E., CO 15' \V.; motion west-
erly, GO 20' E., CO 30' W., CO 30' E. ; (,o 10' W". : motion W. to E., CO 20' E.,
00 5' E., deadsfop,{i'> 55' E., OO ](.' E., OO 31,' E., OO s' W. : motion N.W.N, to
E., 00 3fir E., flO 5' W., 0" 30' E., OO (/, oo 35' E., a waving arch over zenith.
Spiral beams from E. to \V., and laterally to the northern and southern horizons,
1)0 10' E. to 00 20' VV., 00 3i'' W., t,o 5' W., OO 2U W., OO 3i' W., OO -20' \V.
I CO 40 VV., 10 OC VV. : motion VV. : (|0 55' W., CO 10' VV., OO 10' V\., (.0 '20f
haviiij; j W. : bright at W. and N., 0° VJ W . ; motion W. to E., lUWi W ., L" 35' VV.,
o liiid at , 10 00' W. : motion VV., (,o 15^ \v. .. nioiion E. to VV. 0" 55' \V. : a llittint; motion
:->Q' W., ■ over the zenith to E., C" 2C' VV., (O 50' W. : motion N., d" 2(,' W., (.5 48' W.,
r.o 20' VV., 00 55' W. : rajs VV , CO :io' VV., 1 » ,i5' VV. : motion W . to E., iJ IS'

bright

I

' r'

11

i

11 '

III

■(,)

t '•

▼y

310

MM'ENDJX.

W., 0" 'Hi' y^', 0" 10' V\. ; motion NV. lo N., 0" 30' W. : tio inotioii percei)lil)|p,
0" 05' E., 0" 05' \V., 0" 03' E., 0" 10' VV. : bright at W., 0" 02' E., 0" 3i' W
motion at W., 0' 10' W., 0-25' W., 0" lO'VV., 0" 15' VV., 0" I(j/ W,
Time at beginning IS"" 10»« 0(1"

ending 18 2(5 00

Interval 10 00

Thermometer, observatory — 36", air, — 46", calm and clear; bright, and a dark
blue sky. Aurora apparently low.

December 2'id. — The day had been cold and misty, and the needle was morr
or less agitated, having been steady but twice. At lO"" p.m. the aurora was bright
even through the mi.st, and was generally diflusedN., S., E.,and VV., though
bands of quickly moving rays were travelling westerly at the time 1 war. entering
the ol)8ervatory. The needle was vibrating from 3" 30' VV . to 4" 40' VV. : aurora
became concentrated, with a southerly motion, 3" 55' W. , 4 ' 00' W. : an irregular
mass in motion from S. to VV., and a thick mist cauiC on, 3' 10' VV . : mass seen
through the mist at E., 3" 30' W. : a faint band with rays from S.E. to W., at an
angle of CO", passing southerly, 3" 00' VV. : a bandN.VV. to E., 2" 40' E. : motion
S. to W., -r 50' VV., r 20' W., V h-v W., faint S.AV. to VV., 1" 55' VV., 1" 20,
VV., 1"30' VV., 1" !(!' \V., 0" 05' V^.: a band N.VV. to N.E., 0" 15' VV. : fainl
appearance at S., 0" 00', 0" 20' W ., 0 ■ 20' VV . The aurora was again brightcnini;
when, from my lingers being nearly frozen, I was obliged to leave ott'.

Time at beginning 16'' 15"' 30'

ending 10 24 00

Interval 8 30

Thermometer, observatory, — M", air, — 52". Calm and misty.

December 23(1. — There had been aurora all the evening, and at lOh p. ,m. the
needle was in slight motion at 0" 40' W. At midnight the aurora was generall>
diffused; the principal stream being at E., anri extending almost acro.ss the zenith
to VV. b. S. It flowed in three distinct bands, which separated or forked into three
others, whose faint extremities expanded 20°, and were there joined by an irregular
band of rays that completed the semicircle. The needle moved fiom 1" 10' VV. to •..'*2(.'
VV. : bright at S. W.,!" 55' VV., i" 15' W., 1»58' VV. : motion \V. \. \V. to S. i:..
i* 1-i' VV., W., l" 5.V \V.,'i'> 10' \V.: faint mass at S. VV., 1» 5'.' VV., ',:» 05' VV..
10 .50' VV. -. spiral band M. E. to E.. i" 00' VV., 1" 5:/ VV.. l" 5H' VV ., l" 4S' W..
l" 5a' VV., 1» 4K' VV., 1« 5.V VV.-. motion N. to E., 1" 4K' VV., 1« 55' VV., 1" 4S' VV

Time at beginning 17'' SD™ 00'

ending 18 03 30

Interval 1 30

Temperature, observatory, — 41", air. — .5K". (^alm, blue sky, and misty.

Decend)er 25th. — At 9' a. m. the needle was vibrating in the same maimer a^
uhen tlic aurora was present; and the sky was clear, except an arcii of very
.streaky and fdmy clouds wiiich extended from VV. across the zenith to E. The
resemblance to the coruscati«ns was perfect, but I could not detect any motion ;yei
the needle indicated such ; for it varied in the readings between ( " 30 E. and ( '
55' E. At noon a light mass of cloud remained at E. b. S. ; the sun was bright, about
3" 3Gf high, and a liglit breeze prevailed from E. S. E. ; still the needle was mov-
ing between 1" 11' E. and 1* 30' E. Thermometer, observatory, — 33-1", a'f, —
•.i',0, sun,— 3(i.

January 15th. — There was a calm nearly all day, the weather .sometimes clear,
sometimes overcast, and the needle had been found always vibrating slowly and nn-
•'(|aally. At 10'' i-. m. the moon bore E., and was dimly seem thiough the grey haze
that overcast the sky •. I found (he needle moving at 1" 00' E, and innnedialely ran

i

■/AS-

APPENDIX

31'

^ brij^hi

fiiit, but <^onbl not detect ftii.v niirora, exrppt by a Hoftenod flaky appearance ""or u
moment at S. K., at an angle of about 15"; ou my return, the needle was still vi-
brating at 1" 20' from which it went at once to 7" 50' K., the I'artliest I ever saw; it
then returned to tj» 4(\l E., to fl" 00' E., to ti" 2(,' E., to J" 50' E., to i" 00' E., to
I • 30' E., to 2" 25' E., to I" 05' E., to 2' 00' E., to 1 " 25' E., to 2" 55' E., to 2" 12'
E., to »'• 00' E., to 2" 10' E., to 2" 00' E.. to 1" 10' E., to 2' 12' E., to 0" 50' E..
to 0" 30' W., to 0 ■ 0-2' W., to 0" 20' W., to 0" SO' E., 0" yO' E., 1" 00' E.. 0 ■ 30'
E., I" 20' E., 1 • 05' E., 1" 15' E., 0" 50' E., I" 02' E., 0 ' 3.V E., 0" 00', 0" 40' W.,
I" 00' W-.O" 10* W.,0'30' VV.

Time at beginning W OU"- 00'

ending 10 20 00

Interval 1 1 00

Thermometer, observatory, — 17". air, — 20" Wind N. E. leather, overcast
and hazy. The aurora w as bright belore it was overcast.

February 1st. — The weather had been particularly line and cleaP all day, though
the needle had been either slowly moving, or tremulous, orswaggin which ! term
agitated. The sun was bright, and had the power to mak« a did'i icc of 36" be-
tween the thermometer at the north and south sides of the observatory. At 7''
p. M. there was a faint diliusion of aurora, apparently high, the needle was tPe-
mulou!^ — 0" O'i' VV., hut at IC" p. m. the thermometer had sunk to-*-jOj'*, and (he
aurora presented the most brilliant appearance I ever saw at so low a temperature :
the main stream rose in a narrow but vivid column at E. b N., and after making
a zig-zag bend to E., pursued a direction to W. in an undulating arch 70" N. ; but
from the westward there were no less than seven distinct parts of arcs, issuing from
another condensed column, of a dull red and orange mixed with yellow. These
arcs had an altitude from 20" to 50", stretching towards the S. E., where I observed
several bright rays : all of those E. and W. were more or less tinged with the
colour I have mentioned, but beyond, or what I should denominate higher, were
many white filmy rays or bands. On examination 1 found the needle strangely
acted on, which was shown by the quickness and sudden checks or dead stops it
exhibited, according to the current and counter-current of the prevalent band or
stream. One fact I was glad to ascertain, viz. that the marked end of the needle
was at 1" 20' W., when the most powerfully concentrated aurora was at E, b. N.
and E.b.S., both rising into arcs, the former northerly' to W . at an angle of 00",
the latter i southerly) faintly to S. W. Finding that the needle only vibrated at
different arcs between 0" 50' and 1° 20' W., I went out to watch the motion of the
aurora, when it underwent transitions of form, from streaming arches to spirals,
zig-zag'd, convoluted, and indescribable bands of rays, and beams altogether so
eccentric and beautiful, as to exceed the visions of the most exuberant imagination.
Corona; were frequent, and as every part was in rapid motion, it will be readily
conceived to be no easy task to decide on the correct one ; and all that was evident
to me, may be simply CciUed two currents in direct opposition, sometimes along
double bands or arches, and as often existing in a single arch, though in the latter
case 1 remarked that the paramount motion, if from the westward, for instance,
<lid not cease until it had passed the zenith of its arc, and was encountered and
borne away by a superior eastern current. In the midst of these conflicting phe-
nomena I ran to the leedle, and found it almost steady as regarded the minute,
which was 0" 45' W , but so tremulous (see-sawing perpendicularly) that it dipped
by estimation) full 10' of the graduated arc of the instrumenl. On going out again
the appearances had changed, but were still brilliant, and more spread between
E. b, N. and S. E. The two currents, however, were still obvious, and though the
aurora was «hat I should say comparatively high to what it had been on other

i

' I

t I

}

w

:tlA

APPENDIX.

occasioiw, ypt it not only excluded the stars, which it may he r(!inark(>d were nrc-
vioiiHly particularly !)rinht, hut when visihic it made them appear to ho at an im-
menHC distance. Un the other hand, their twinkling aufTercd only partially IVom
the interposition of the pale and (laky aurora v^hich was evidently much higher
than the principal streams ; and it may not he out of place to mention, thai had I
heen unacquuin'cd witli the locality, 1 should have positively averred that I heard
a whizzing noise <luring the rapidity of the motion, hut which noise I knew was
the faint murmur of Anderson's Fall in the river to the N. W. On returning to the
needle, it had moved tot." 50' \\.,hut was very tremulous, which may lead to a
sup|)osition that the same effect may he produced hy a similar (though invisihie)
rause during the day ; I mean, counter-currents of aurora.

Fehruary 8th. — At *.)li a. m. the needle was at li' 37' E., agitated. The weather
was clear with a cloudless sky and hri^ht sun, when at noon I found the needle in
rapid motion from 2" 10' E. to i« 50' ., -J 20' E., i« 50 E., 'i' 20' E., a' 10' E.,
2« 10' E, \.o 00' E., 2« 10' E., i*- 00' t'., very slow to 2» 20' E., v» 08' E., i" 2b
E., •*' 15' E., ^' 20' E., where it remained steady five seconds, then moved again
to2« 25' E., i» 20' E., 2« 30' E., and slowly to 2» 28' E., quicker to 2» 35' E., i*
25' E., 2" 32' E., 2" 22' E., 2- 34' E., 2- 25' E., 2" 42' E., 2" 26f E., 2" 38' E., 2-
20' E., 2 32' E., 2" 24' E., 2" 33' E., 2" 20' E., 2o 24' E., 2" 14' E., 2" 20' E., 2"
05' E., ^« 12' E., 'J 04' E„ 'J 16' E., 'J 18' F., 2« 15' E., 2<> 14' E., 2» 20' E., 2»
15' E., "i" 20' E., 20 18' E., 2» 22' E., where it kept still moving, but very slowly.

Time at beginning fib lOm 40s

ending (i 21 10

Interval 10 30

Temperature, observatory, — U^*, air, — 11', sun, -}- 23' ; nothing percentihle
in the sky,

No. VIII.

iMAGNETICAL OBSERVATIONS.

During the progress of the expedition every opportunity was embraced of making
the magnetical '^'•servations requisite for the determination of the dip and of the
variation of the needle, and of the terrestrial magnetic intensity. At Fort Reliance,
such observations were repeated on several occasions; and a series of observations
was also instituted for determining the diurnal variation of the needle, and for
ascertaining how far extraordinary changes in its direction might be attributable to
the influence of the Aurora Borealis.

These observations have been placed in the hands of Professor Christie, who
proposes discussing most of them in a paper shortly to be laid before the Royal So-
ciety. It vvill, therefore, be unnecessary here to enter into their details. As, how-
ever, some of the immediate results may be interesting, they are given in the fol-
lowing tables.

fi;

t

APPENDIX. .\\\)

The Dip and Variation oj llif Maijnetir SuKih.

The (lip wns (Intormiiied by inenns of a Hinall but accuratP dippini; instrtimont, b>
Dollond, having a needle three inches in lengtli, restini; upon hollow eurvcd agates

For the pnrpone or placing the instrument into the inagiiettc meridian, there was
an apparatus, consiRting of a eross piece, with a |ioint and ball in the form of the
axis of the needle ; and on the point was placed a small horizontal needle ; and the
instrument moved bodily round (the index for the horizontal circle being placed
at zero), until the small needle was parallel to the divided or vertical circle. The
instrument was then levelled in the usual manner; but in case any accident should
have happened to the level, this operation could be effected by the cross piece,
before described, for placing the instrument into the meridian ; for, as it acted upon
the principle of the pendulum, the point at the bottom of the ball would show, by
the division on the circle at i)U*, the perpendicularity of the instrument, or the cor-
rect horizontal motion.

The dip was found at Fort Reliance in the usual manner, with needle No. 1., by
taking the means of several readinp^s, with the face of the needle to the face of the
instrument, and with the face of the needle reversed, both with the face of the in-
strument east and with its face west ; similar observations being made with the poles
of the needle inverted : but in making observations for the dip with the needle
No. 2, its poles were in no inst nee inverted.

If, then, we consider that tli lip obtained with the needle No. 1. is the correct
dip at Fort Reliance, it is cvidi , i that the dip deduced from the observations there
with the needle No. 'i. will require a small correction, in onsequencc of its centre
of gravity not coinciding accurately with its axis; and the result obtained with thi.s
needle in all other cases will likewise require a correction, though not a constant
one. Professor Christie, however, who proposes reducinj; these observations, and
likewise those which were made for determining the magnetic intensity, informs me,
that for the observations from Fort Reliance to the sea, the amount of this correction
will be small, seldom exceeding ten minutes.

The dip of the needle at the several stations given in Tahle I,, is deduced by
taking the mean of their readings.

i

'I

3-^U

APPENDIX.

TABLE I.

Containing tiie ubscrved Dip and Variation of the Magnetic Needie.

Place of
Observation.

New York. . .
Montreal. . . .
Fort Alexander
Ciimi)'' House. .
I He h la Crosse.
FortCtiipewyan
FortResolution

Fort Reliance

Musk Ox Rapid
Rock Hppirt . .
Point Beaufort
IMontreal Island

Point Cgk

Lati-
tiid*',
North.

40 1207
15)2934
.'>030 49
535733
53 25 25
5842 32
61 1026

624629

64 4051
055418
674124

674727

681357

Lonc;]-
tiide,
West.

74 0115
73 4227
962125
10221 16
107r)43G
1111900
1134500

1090039

Date of
Obser-
vation.

108

810

i»810 7|

95

216

95

1815

94 58 1

1833.
April 1
April 19
June 10
July 6.
July 17
July 31
Aug. 9
Oct. 9
Oct. 10.

1834.
May 21
May 22
Mean
Mean
Jnly 2
July 2;i
July 31
Aug. 2

Aug. U

Dip.

4.

o '

No.

7314

2

7749

2

7920

2

8049

6>

8035

2

8152

2

83 7

2

8444

2

8420

1

8433

2

8342

1

84 39

o^

84 1

1

8613

2

B7 54

2

8813

2

8745

2

8926

2

Date of
Observation.

*1825

1833

1831
July 2

July 31
Aug. 2. A. M.
Aug. 2. P. M.
Aug. 15. A.M.

— Noon

— P.M.

Variation.

*130'i8VV.

*151541E.

*19I121E.
•• :1920E.
*?:)2937E,i
*3720 t.

35 19 E.

[mean.]

44 24

i.'916

6 00

243

642

1 b'li

330
146

E.

E.

W.

E.

W.

E.

W.

E.

Variations in 1825 by Sir .!. Franklin : —
At Fort Resolution tlie vaii.itidii in 1825 was . 29° 15' 09'
Ditto, in 1820 25" 40' 47'

The variation was determined by means of a Kater's compass made by Jones ;
and, when used, great care was taken to remove it from the proximity of any iron
or other metallic substance which might be supposed to derange it.

Owhig, I consider, to the great diminution of the directive force acting on tlic
hcrizontal needle, the variation couid not be determined with any degree of certainty
after we arrived at the mouth of the Thlew-ee-choh ; but whether the di(ferencei<
in the variation which I obtained at difl'erent times of the day were due to sluggish-
ness in the needle, or to au actual change in the direction of the force acting upon
the needle, to the amount observed, I will not venture to say, though there CKiiUOt
ho nuu'h doubt that the latter cause had some influen "e.

ft

T/)H Diiirhnl VarialinH.

The diurnal changes iu the direction of the needle were determined with an in-
slninient constructed by Jones expressly for this expedition.

The instrtuneut consisted of a rectangular brass box, ten inches long, and twu
and a quarter wide; with pieces of ])lale glass at earb end, and on the top ; and was
perfectly air-tight. It had two levels, and stood on three foot-screws, by means of

APPENDIX.

3-21

ariation.

o ' *

ao^sw.

H541E.

JliaiE.i

:i920Ii.:

)2937E,I

r-io t.

■■> 19 E.

mean.]

124 E.

)I6 E.

iOO W.

J4:i R.

542 W. 1

52 E. !

v.\o w.

146 E.

*

which it was levelled. The needle was S4 inches long; ami could vii)rate in an arc
of ten degrees on each side of the magnetic nieridiici. It could he used either
vibrating on a centre, or by suspension, or both ; as a pillar, with the necessary
apparatus for preventing torsion, screwed on the top of the instruniLMit. 'I'hcre was
a si<i.ill telescope, quite independent of the instrument, for reading iff the variation ;
and which had a motion concentric with the graduated arcs, rendering it unne-
cessary to approach the instrument '.oo closely, and thus obviating many incon"
veniences.

The in?truraent was placed on the .soli<l stand in tht observatory described before.
The obscrvalioiis of the diiei^tion of the needie were made for seven successive
days, in October IS3'3, from the 22d to the 2Sth of the month, at every hour from
8 A.M. until midnight; and similar observations were made in April 1S34, from the
23d of the month to the 29th, both days inclusive; and again in Octol)cr 1831
from the 22d to the 28th inclusive.

The mean results of these observations are given in Tables If., Ilf., and IV.

From November 1S33 to April IH31, both months inclusive, and again, from
Novemiier 1S3 1 to Marrl- S35, the dircctio:< of the needle was oliserved and re-
gistered each day, at the hours of 8 and 9 in the morning, noon, 1, 2, 3, 4, V, 10,
12, afternoon.

The means of all the observations for each month (without attributing any of the
deviations to, or making any correction for the appearance of, the Aurora boreaii.s)
are contained in Table V. ; and Table V'l. showp the number of times, during each
month, that the needle was in motion wluithcr tremulous or vibrating, at lhe
several hours of registering its direction; together with the number of times that
the aurora was visible.

|i

it

1

'I

'n

mmmmBammm

•o2-2

APPENDIX.

No. U. Showing llie Mean (daily) Variation and Temperalure observed at Fori

(for Seven Days). — I'osi-

October, 1833.

8' A.M.

Tem.

y' A.M.

Tem. 10'' A.M.

.Teni.

+
25 71

ll" A.M.

Tem.

22, to 28.

» »

47 08 F,.

.=>() 00 E.

25 04 27 .51 E.

4 00 E.

+
20 14

October, IKJIJ.

.'■>■' l'..M.

'IVni.

()'' I'.M.

Tem. 1 7'' p.m.

Tem.

Sh P.M.

Tem

22, to 28.

< »

1 08 E

+
2t> 88

1 34w.

25 74 5 25 E.

+
25 t)4

0 00

+
25 2(i

Note. — At O"" a.m. tlic iieedic was generally agitated. At lo"" it vibrated once. At
At 4'' steady. At .">'' once tremulous. At (}'' twice tremulous. At 7'' thrice tre-
ll"" twice atlected. At miduigiit twice tremulous.

iNo. III. Sho\vin'5 the Mean Variation and Temperature, observed at Fort Reli-

Dfiys). — Position

April, 18.34. I 8'' a.m

IV

9" A.M. ! Tem.

10" A.M.

Tet

23, to 29.

'27 43e.I1() 2 24 25 e.

17 2

16 17 E.I 18 00

ll*- AM. Tem

' » I _'-
11 34 E. lis' 8

/.prii, I8;H.

23, to 29.

5' I'.M.

] Tem.

1 ■*-
122 5

(1'' P.M.

Tem.

7'' P.M

Tem.

5 17w.

5 2r)w.

+
22 40

< f

3 26w.

+
22 GO

S"" P.M. Tem

1 25w. 22 00

Note. — At 8'' a.m. the needle was once moving. At 9'' twice agitated. At lO""
moving. At 3'' steady. At 4'' once apitatcd. At .V' once tremulous. At 6''
10'' steady. At 11'' once vibrating. Midnight, moving twice. (Aurora visible

No. IV. Shovviiifi the Mean Variation and Temperalure, observed at Fort Reli-

7 Days). — Position of

October,, 1834.

8'' A M.

TCMI.

-¥■
12 98

9" AM.

Tem.

10'' A.M

Tern.

+
13 8(i

IP A.M.

Tem.

22, to 28.

t 0

28 51 K.

1 1

19 51 E.

12 .57

11 00 E.

< (

5 51 E.

14 .50

[ October, IKU.

fjI'P.M

Tem.

0'' P.M.

Tem

7'' P.M.

I'em.

S^PM.

Tem.

22, to 28.

1 »
9 OOw.

1() 93

' »

1 17w.

-f
l(i 85

/ r

8 51w.

1« 96

» #

11 08vv.

-f-
17 03

Note.— At lO*- t

\.M. the needle was once in motion. At ll"" . At noon twice,
once tremulous. At H^ twice in motion. At

APPENDIX.

323

1! i

OSI-

lleliance, Tor every Hour from 8 a.m. till Midi.ight, as indicated in tiie Table
Uon of r^eedlc, suspended.

Noon.

Tera.

1'' P.M.

Tem.

•i" p M

Tem.

3'' p.m.

Tem.

4'' P.M.

Tem.

/ ff
2 25 E.

•if) 35

/ II

1 31 u.

-t-
2() -28

1 M

7 00 k..

-r
•2G 40

0 00

2(5 31)

4 34 1

4-
20 40

9>' P.M.

rem.

10'" P.M.

Tem.

-T

2.T m

Ill' P M.

Tem.

12'' P.M.

Tem.

1

« §
4 43 E.

25 07

8 08w.

7 43\v.

-t-
24 80

3 51 E.

4-
•i\ 80

11'' three times. At noon twice.
iDulous. At 8'' twice tremulous.

At T' P.M. thrice. At a*" thrice. At 3'' twice.
At '.)'' thrice. At 10'' p.m. twice tremulous. At

1

ance, for every Hour from 8 a.m. till Midnight, as indicated in the Table (for 7
Needle suspended.

Noon.

Tera.

Ih P M.

Tem.

2'' P M.

Tem.

3'' P.M.

• em.

4'' P.M.

Tem.

» 1
1 43 E.

19 6

3 00 E.

+
19 2

1 34w.

20 00

4 20w.

2! 8

7 OSw.

22 0

91' P.M.

Tem.

10'- P.M.

Tem.

11'' P.M.

Tem.

11?' P M.

Tem.

' 1
0 43w.

.^4

0 00

20 5

/ It

0 \7\\.

4-
■?0 6

' »
3 34w.

19 5

twice moving. At 11'' steady. At noon stc;uly. At 1'' p.m. steady. At 2'' once
twice agitated. At 7'' p.m. steady. At 8'' once tremulous. At '.)'' steady. At
only three times.)

I

I I

liancc, for every Hour from 8 a.m. till Midnight, as ladica'. d in tlie Table (for
Needle, suspended.

Noon.

Tem.

r- P.M.

Tem.

y'' P.M.

Tem.

31' P.M.

Tera

4" •• M.

Tera.

1 1
4 34 E.

-1-
15 10

1 1

2 25 E.

16 00

1 3hv.

16 13

t J

8 43w.

+
17 11

< 1
12 17w.

4-
17 03

9'' P.M.

'I'en.
16 86

10" P.M.

Tem.

11'' PM.

Tem.

12'' P.M.

Tern.

1 1
8 25 E.

5 00 E.

16 78

5 l.'nv.

-r-
16 60

7 34 w.

4-
16 78

At l*" P.M. twice. At 2'' once. At 3'' twice. At 4'' once tremuloiis. At7''PM
lO*" once. At 1 1"" twice. At midnight once.

A

2i'

'IIP

I

1 ■ -*■
•4

ipaw

■■■■MlHI

3il

AM'ENDIX

No. V. Containing the Mean Variation and Temperature observed at Fort

iS'cedle,

Montli.

8"

AM.

Tem.

<)'• A.M.

Tern

N

oon.

Tem.

l"- P.M.

Tem.

2I>P M.

f

g

4-

/ r

+ '

1

-f

/ r

+

< 1

Nov., 1833

10

24 F,.

18 7

31 14 E

18 7

2

32 E.

19 27

4 21sv.

19 10

0 16 E.

+

+

-f

+

Dec.

:yi

44 E.

6 )

29 231-.

5 O'J

3

05 E.

5 08

2 33 E.

6 00

1 04i'„

Jan., 1831

30

36 H.

24 50

28 23 E.

23 90

6

40 E.

2.3 1

2 1/ E.

22 00

0 34 E.

I'eb.

16

55 E.

0 4

32 32 i.

9 0

6

10 E.

8 0

2 08 E.

17 30

2 b'Si.

March

3>

30 E. 1 20

40 34 E.

1 00

8

29 E.

1 50

6 17 E.

2 30

5 27 E.

-r

+

+

+

April
Nov.

40

37 k.

10 .">0
+

30 24 E.

11 06

-1-

4

31 E.

13 40

-4-

0 53vv.

14 30

0 20 E.

48

12 E.

14 21)

40 26 E.

14 41

11

25 E.

14 70

0 25 E.

15 38

3 24 E.

Dec.

■?A

52 ii.

20 90

33 44 E.

29 9

11

10 E.

28 4

0 25w.

29 4

0 15\v.

Jan., 18;{5

')■>

27 E.

17 0

23 23 E.

18 3

3

00 E.

17 9

0 52 w.

17 4

2 27vv.

Feb.

32

23 E.

23 2

25 47 E.

23 7

6

45 k.

21 9

+

3 42 E.

•20 7

0 53 E.

March * 21

46 E.

18 1

29 4'JE.

17 7

1

531

14 4

0 33w.

13 2

1 50\v.

* Oalv 1

8 Da\.>

> in

iMaic

li.

No. VI. Showing the Number of Times tbo iSccdle was in Motion at the

resis'.erinK Hours.

. —

— - -

<^ >.

T.

«

■»:

X

V 1

T.

«

OC

«

X

o_?

0.

a-

i.

iJ

X '

0/

Ol

0.

Qj

s

E

c

2

B

B

S

c

s

c

^—

•—.

u.

."

r-

H

H

H

• f-

• t" 1

?..=

i'.tlonth.

i.

^ ;^

^ '—

.t«

. ■.^.

«=*-

^ u-

gt^

?%- 1

» «^

P <L 1

»"

< -

< 6

i =

^ c

6. -•

- 6

^ -

s. -

5k S

i°'

r^ll

sibI

^y

~.y-

y y

z.y

~>'y

^.y

^y

£^'

:=/

21y. ?-?:

<"•>'

Nov.

\Ki:\

13

10

IH

16

9

6

19

12

18

16

137

14

Dec.

Ih;5;i

1,-1

18

7

6

14

(i

12

17

15

17

1-il

15

Jan.

1S34

8

10

7

12

5

2

6

9

3

IG

78

28 1

Feb.

lh3l

(i

8

10

16

10

3

3

3

8

8

81

14 1

Alanii

I8:<1

10

15

13

17

15

8

13

11

13

15

122

19

April

1831

7

15

13

13

12

7

7

3

2

0

88

22 i

Nov.

1S31

4

8

10

11

5

3

7

\

8

16

76

15 ;

Dec.

1831

7

17

12

8

6

4

3

4

5

14

80

28 i

.I:in.

is3r)

4

9

14

12

1

0

1

:i

4

19

67

19 !

Feb.

1835

3

15

12

14

5

2

7

.)

6

13

82

21 '

March

I8;t5

1

9

3

4

1

1

3

2

4

()

34

10

"Vliolc Nuiiiljer

1

Vibrali !i ill

llio rpspci tivf

78

r.M

1-25

l->9

83

42

81

73

86

140

APIENDIX.

835

I

Ueliance, from 8 a.m. to IMidnight, as iiidicateJ in the Table. — Posilion of
suspended.

Tem.

3h P iM.

Teni.

4'' P.M.

Tern.

7'' P.M.

'IV m

+
18 7

10

-P.M.

Tera.

12* P.M.

4 38\v.

4-
19 37

• 1

0 3-2w.

19 15

0 06\v.

+
19 3

6 06e.

1

§

50 E.

4-
18 6

-+-
6 -2

0 38\v.

6 8

2 13 E.

+
5 09

5 29 e.

-f-
5 00

0

07 E.

1
1 00

1 05w.

2-2 1

0 25 E.

=l-> 00

1 19 E.

22 2

7 19 E.

21 9

1

09 E.

22 2

0 21 E.

5 00

0 55 E.

6 7

4 06e.

5 20

7 35 E.

5 (JO

10

45 E.

5 9(1

G 12\v.

3 00

I 15 E.

4 30

0 31 K.

+
5 00

1 02 E.

+
4 90

G

21 E.

-f
4 10

3 33w.

+
15 30

2 15\v.

16 50

3 20\v.

+
1(5 70

1 08w.

-f-
17 00

1

08 E.

15 50

1 45w.

4-
15 55

4 02 E.

15 48

5 13 E.

-f
15 07

7 09 E.

14 85

7

I3e.

-f
14 48

6 22 E.

29 2

1 58 E.

29 00

0 3Gw.

•29 00

0 05 E.

29 00

1

19w.

29 2

13 31vv.

17 2

2 48w.

17 0

5 Olw.

17 1

2 llw.

17 3

2

07w.

17 4

1 29\v.

19 0

0 58vv.

18 6

4 57w.

17 i-

3 lOw.

18 3

11

49w.

19 6

4 40\v.

12 5

2 23w.

U I

4 20\v.

10 40

1 lOw.

11 2

8

lOw.

12 7

5 53w.

Tfiii.

18 00

-f-
4 08

22 50

I) 30

-f

2 90

4-
14 4

+
14 2.>

29 4

17 5

2{» 3

14 5

Alt()"etlier 3190 Ol)seivatious.

I

2 a-"

14

J5 ,

28

14

19

22

15

28

19

21

10

i

1

-J.

320

APPENDIX,

No. IX.

A TABLE OF LATITUDES, LONGITUDES, AND VAKIATIONS.

The Longitudes deduced are from the Mean of Three Chronometers.

Date.

1833.
Vug. 16

19
22

24

27

Sept. 1

6

1834.
July 13
15
17

19
20
2:i
26

29

30
•A I

Aug. 2
15

Latitude,

North.

u

r

62

45

35

62

50

15

i)3

2;{

46

63

23

57

64

24

13

64

40

51

62

53

26

62

40

29

65

28

21

65

14

44

65

09

12

65

53

10

65

48

04

65

54

18

66

00

24

67

07

31

67

2!)

31

67

41

24

67

47

27

68

13

57

Longiti'de, by

Chronometer,

West.

o '

1

111 19

52

109 47 54
108 08 16

108 28
108 08

108 28

109 00

53

10
24
38.9

106 54
106 00
103 33

01
53

08

99 40
98 10

46
07

94 39 45

94 28

95 02

95 18

94 58

14
16

15

01

Variation.

45 31 E.

36 52
36 00

E.
E.

36 50 E.
44 24 E.

35 19 E.

39 12

30 06

29 38
29 16

E.
E.

E.
E.

By sun's bear-
ing at noon
8 30 W.

6 00 W.
2 43 E. A.M.
6 42 W.p.M.
1 52 E.A.M.
1 46 W.p.M.

Place of Observation.

Artillery

Near the mountain, north
sliore, Great Slave Lake.

Mouth olHoar FrostRiver.

Lake Walnisley.

North end of
Lake.

Sand Hill Bay.

Musk Ox Rapid.

South end of Ar'tilleryLake.

Means of several sets at
Fort Reliance.

Near Lake Beechy.

North end of cascades.

On island.

Lake Felly.

Lake Garry.

Rock Rapid.

Mount Meadowbank.

Near the mouth of Thlew-
I ee choh.

I Sir G. Cockburn's Bay.
I Point Beaufort.

J Montreal Island,
I Point 0"le.

\

APPENDIX.

327

^S.

lorth

ike.

iver.

llery

lake.

ts at

I

lew-

y-

No. X.

Hudson's Bay Mouse, London, 22d Oct. 18.33.

Afiyus Bethune, Esq.

Chief- Factor, §-c. ^c. SaiiU St. Marys.

Sir,

I AM directed by the Governor and Committee to acquaint you, that the packet
by which this is sent will be forwarded to your address in duplicate ; one copy,
via Montreal, to be transmitted from post to post by the Grand River, and the
other by the American mail, to the care of the commanding officer of the garrison
at St. Mary's. It contains letters for Captain Back, apprising him of the arrival of
Capt. Ross in England ; and it is of great importance that he should receive this in-
formation before his departure from his winter quarters.

I am therefore to request, that the copy which first reaches you be sent on to the
next post by a couple of the most active men you can find, without the delay of ono
day at St. Mary's ; and that it be forwarded in like manner, accompanied by this
letter, with the utmost expedition, from post to post, via Mishipicoton, the Pic, Fort
William, Lake La Pluie, via. Riviere aux Roseaux to Fed River, thence to Fort
Pelly, Carlton, Isle A la Crosse, Athabasca, and Great Slave Lake, until it reaches
its destination; where, if due expedition be observed, it ought to arrive early in
April.

The Governor and Committee further direct, that the officers at the different posts
do not, on any pretence whatever, detain tLe packet ; and desire that the date of
the arrival at and departure from each post, signed by the officer in charge, be en-
dorsed on the back hereof ; and also, that the messengers from each post be in-
structed to proceed to the next, without attending to any directions they may re-
ceive to the contrary, from persons they may meet en route.

And when the second copy of this packet gets to hand at the Sault, let it be

forwarded in like manner.

I am, Sir,
Your most obedient humble Servant
W. SMITH, Secretary.

-Received at the Pic on the 7th of February, 1834. at 8 o'clock p.m.

Thomas 31. Murray, C. T. H. B. Coin.

Left the Pic on the 8th of February, at (j o'clock a.m.

Thomas M. Murray.

Received at Long Lake on the 13th of February, 1834, at 11 o'clock p.m.

Peter M'Kensie, Clerk H. B. Co.

Left Long Lake ou the 14th of February at 5 o'clock a.m.

Peler M'Kemie.

w

ill

II!

!*■ '■■

3-2R

APPENDIX.

Received at Lake Nipigon on the I61I1 of February, I83'l, at 10 o'clock p.m.

John Swanston, Clerk, II. II. B.Co.

Left Lake Nipigon on the 17th|of February, at 5 o'clock a.m.

Juhn Swanslon, Clerk 11. H. B. Co.

Received at Fort William (he 21st of February, 1H3 1, at 11 o'clock a.m., and left Fort
VV'illiam at '.< o'clock I'.M. same dale.

Dutialil MIntosh, C T.

Received at Boi.s Blanc on the iStii of February, I8H4, at 1 o'clock p.m., and left Hois
Blanc at 4 p.m., siame day.

Juhn MIntosh, Clerk 11. U. Co.

Received at Lac la i'luie on the 2d of March, 1834, at 6 a.m., and will leave this at 7 A.m.
the same date.

fVilliam Sinclair, Clerk.

Received at Carlton on the 2d of April, 18,'{4, 11 o'clock a, .m., and will leave this at 1
o'clock noon, the same date.

J. P. Pruden, C. T.

Received at Fort ChipweyaH 'ilst April, 1834, and will start at 3 o'clock on tlie 22d, a m;

/. Charles, C. F.

Received.

Place.

Forwarded.

Naine of Officer
in Charge.

•2{)\\\ .Fan. at noon

.Sault, St. Mary

's. 21st .Inn

11. Bcthune.

j-i".>th .Ian. afternoon. . . .

Mishipicohn. .

. :iOth .Ian

Georj;o Keith.

7th Feb. at 8 p.m

Pic

F'ort William.

. 8tli Feb. 6 A.M. . .

T. M. Murray.

!2d iMiirch, at G a.m. ...

Lake la Pluic.

. 2d March, 7 a.m. ,

W. Kinrlair.

jl2lh Marcli, at 9. p.m. . .

R'vl River. . .

. ISlh March, G a.m.

-.. Chri.ste.

25tb :March, nt G p.m. . .

Fort Pelly. . .

. 2Glh March, G a.m.

W. Todd.

;2d April, at 11 a.m. . . .

Carlton. . . .

. 2(1 April, 1 at noon.

.1. P. Prnden.

Isle ii la Crosse

. Gth April, .5 p.m. .

R. IM'Kenzic.

21 nt April, at 4 p.m. . . .

.Atlialiasca. . .

. 22d April, 3 a.m. .

J. Charles.

2'Jth April, at 7 p.m. . . .

Great Slave Lat

^e. 30th April, 4 a.m.

.I.M I)oncll,Cl.

s

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS

TO THE

ARCTIC LAND EXPEDITION.

'!'!

Grant from His Majesty's (}o-
vernment ....

The Riglit Hon. the Lord Mayor
and Corporation ot the City of
London ....

The Elder Bretliren of the Cor-
poration of the Trinity House

Tiie Committee of the Subscri
l)ers to Lloyd's

The Hon. the East India Com-
pany .....
riie Council of tlie Royal Geo-
gr,'ij,hical Society .

Tiie Council of the Royal Society

The 3Iayor and Corporation of
Portsmoutli ....

H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent .

H. G. the Duke of Northumber-
land .....

Ii. G. the Duke of Somerset .

The Earl of Ripon .

Adm. Lord de Saumarez

Tiie Earl of Hardwicke .

Lord Ashley ....

The Earl oi Caledon

Earl Bathurst

The Lord Bishop of Durham .

Lord Selsey ....

Lord Bexley

Lord Viscount Gal way

Lady Galway

Lord Viscount Clive

The Earl of Dartmouth

The Marq. of Northampton

Lord Somerville

The Lord Bishop of Cloyne

The Lord Bishop of MaiulafF .

Antrobus, Sir Edmund
Attwnod, Wolverly
Aga, Selim ....
Athenjjeum. Ed. of the
Ainsley, S. R., Esq. .
Austin, Capl. H., I{. N. .
Arrowsmilh, J., Es(|.

£

s.

</

2000

0

0

10.5

0

0

100

0

0

105

0

0

100 0 0

50

0

0

ii:i

12

0

10

10

0

20

0

0

100

0

0

50

0

0

50

0

0

20

0

0

25

0

0

5

0

0

25

0

0

10

0

0

20

0

c

10

0

0

10

0

0

1

1

0

1

I

0

20

0

0

20

0

0

10

0

0

5

0

0

:i

0

0

5

0

0

25

0

0

10

0

0

1

10

2

2

0

10

0

0

2

0

(I

•_»

o

2

\cland. Sir T. Dyke, Bart

Vugerstein, John, Esq.
Adair, John, KHf{.
A. 15 , per Ed. of the Sun
Arbnthnot, G., Esq.
\ Lady ,

V W^ellwislier .
\ Lady, per Willis and C

V Lady, [)er ditto
A. ']'.

A Messenger in a Life Office
Anonymous (a Lady)
Allison, W., Esq.
Alsager, Mrs. fcoilerted by her)
Anonymous (tlirough Hort. So

ciety) .

Booth, SirF., Bart. .
i'.ailiie, G., E.sq.
Baillie, T., Esq.
Hack, C, E.sq.
liowles, Capt. \Vm., R. N
Ueaufoy, H., Esq.
IJeverley, IMrs. .
Ueverley, C. J., Esq.
Maillie, \Vm. IL, Esq.
Brady, Lieut., R. N.
Mrockedon, W. , Esq.
Barrell, Capt., B. N.
Bedford, G., E.sq.
Ueechey, Capt., R. N.
Broke, Sir P., Bart. .
Beaufort, Cai)t., U. N.
Brazier, Capt , R. N.
Baron, N. J., Esq.
Bosanquet, Hon Mr. Justice
Brown, Thos. P., Esq.
Bunnatt, Capt., B. N.
Barwis, W. H. B., E.sq.
Briggs, Sam., Esq. .
Beverley, E. Parry, Esq.
Bourchier- C, Esq. .
Bromley, Lady Louisa
Bronicly, Bev., \V . I).
Burrow, .lohii, E.mj. ,

£

s.

rf.

20

0

0

25

0

0

25

0

0

10

0

0

5

0

0

I

0

0

2

0

0

; *

0

0

5

0

0

2

2

0

0

5

0

0

5

0

5

0

0

11

0

0

0

10

0

100

0

0

5

0

0

5

0

0

5

0

0

5

0

0

62

10

0

3

0

0

10

0

0

5

0

0

0

5

0

2

2

0

2

0

0

2

0

0

1

0

0

20

0

0

5

0

0

1

0

0

5

0

0

10

10

0

1

1

0

1

0

0

1

0

0

10

0

0

1

0

0

0

0

0

1

0

0

1

0

0

5

0

0

j!

;*

no

M8T OF SUBSCItlBRRS.

Brine, Capt.d., R, N.
Boskett, .1., Enq.
Bntfield, T., EHq.
Backhouse, J., Esq. .
Bourchier, Capt. T. .
Birch, J., Esq. .
Beatty, Sir W.
Byron, Capt. C. B.,R. N.
Brine, Capt. A., R.N.
Brine, Rev. A. James
Blackeston, Capt. T.
Barlow, Peter, Esq. .
Buller, John, Esq.
Biggs, Robert, Esq. .
Baynes, Lady .
Burgess, Miss Caroline
Brenton, Cap. E.P., R. N

ry Collections)
Baring, T., Esq.
iSuck, J., Esq. .
Browneker, J., Esq.
Blackburn, C, Esq.
Baber, T. H., Esq. .
Brown, Lieut. J., R.N.
Bruce, Mr. W., Surgeon, R
Butcher, Lieut. J., R. N.
Buckler, Mr. W.
Brooke, Sir Arthur de C.
Bremen, la honour of
Box and Son, Messrs.
Bourne, Rev. R. B.
Blair, Mr. Lambert .
Blair, James, Esq.
Blair, Mr.
Bird, Lieut. E. G.
Bourne, W. Esq.
Belcher, Capt. E. R. N.
Browne, Mr.
Beverley, Mr.

Cockburn, Adm. Sir G.
Capel, Adm. Sir T.B.
CoUard, F. W., Esq.
Cook, Mr.

Courier, Proprietors of the
Cook, Cap. H.,R. N.
Cains, or Cranes, Mr. R.
Cumber, Mr. J. sen.
Carr, Miss

Cox, W. R., Esq. .
Conran, J., Esq.
Crauford, W. P., Esq.
Cornan, Capt. George
Clark, Capt. R. A. .
Crosby, Mr. J., jun. .
Campbell, F. W., Esq.
Cannon, Lieut. J., l{. N.
Clifford, Sir Aug.
Cock, Simon, Esq.
Clowes, Mr.
Colquit, Capt. R. N.
Craggs, Wiiliaiii, Esq.
Curzon, the Hon. Adm. H
Carr, H. B., Esq.

(sund

N.

£

.V.

d

1

1

0

.-j

5

0

5

0

0

•■i

5

0

I

1

0

5

5

0

1

1

0

1

1

0

1

0

u

1

0

0

2

2

0

1

0

0

10

0

0

I

0

0

0

5

0

5

0

0

q

12

6

5

0

0

1

1

0

1

1

0

1

0

0

5

0

0

0

5

0

1

1

0

0

5

0

0

1

0

5

0

0

1

I

0

1

1

0

2

2

0

15

0

0

25

0

0

10

0

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1

1

0

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0

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12

0

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20

0

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0

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0

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0

5

0

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2

0

10

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

2

0

5

0

0

1

1

0

Colby. Col.
Clay, VV., Esq., M.P.
Carruthers, D. Esq. .
C. M. . . .
C. T. B. . . .
Chantry, F., Esq.
Cotton, William, Esq.
Crighton, Mr. W.
Clark, Daniel, Esq. .

C. W., Rev. (Banwell)
Campion, J. Esq.
Colquhoun,Capt.,R. N.
Comerford, J. Esq.
Caley, Sir G.
Coulraan, Mrs.
Coulman, R. J. Esq. ( per W

Spence, Esq.)
Coulman, Mrs. R. J. (ditto)

Dalrymple, Sir A. J. , Bar
Davis, M., Esq.
Douglas, Adm. J. E.
Davenport, Davies, Esq.
Duncan, Hon. Capt. H., R.N.
Drummond, Lieut. R.
Dawes, P. Comm., R. N.
Dundas, D. , Esq.
Dixon, C, Esq.
Duffy, Colonel

D. H.

Douglas, Adm. J. .
Denham, Lieut., R. N.
Dufour, J., Esq.
Duff, Capt. A.,R. N.
Devaux, C.,E8q.
Devis, Rev. Mr.
Dowell, Mr. G.,R. N.
Dean, H., Esq.
Droop, J. A., Esq.
Dalby,Capt.
Doran, Capt.
Dixons and Sons (remitted by)
Dixon, W., Esq.
Drysdale,W. C.,E,^p.
Dundas, The Hon. Capt. H.
D

Enderby, C. H., Esq.
Effendi, Omar
Everard, Mr. W.
Edgworth, Miss A.
Edmonds, J. Esq.

E. M. . .
Edgar, T. Esq.
Edwards, Adm. S.
Edwards, Capt. Richard.
Edwards, Lieut. S.
Enterprise (a Brother Sailor)
Ewart, Taylor, and Co. , Messrs
Edgworth, C. L., Esq.
E. S. ...
Elphenston, J. F. , Esq.
Eccles, Mr.
Exeter f Remainder ol Subs

£

».

o.

1

1

1)

Elliot,

5

6

0

Edge!

2

2

u

Eley,

1

0

0

2

0

0

Fletch

10

0

0

Fletch

5

5

(1

Fraze

0

5

0

Fane,

1

0

0

Finnit

2

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0

Frank

1

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(1

Farra

2

2

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Forbe

4

3

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Forbe

5

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Flerai

1

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Fullei
Fowle

1

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V. J.

1

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Five

Fishe

20

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0

Forbe

1

1

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F'ishe

2

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0

Grim

5

5

0

Gutz

1

1

0

Gran

1

1

0

Goss

1

1

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Garr

5

0

0

Gray

1

1

0 1

Gray

1

1

0 1

Gant

5

0

» 1

Gree

1

1

^ 1

Galh

1

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0 1

Gats

2

2

0 f

Gray

1

0

0

Gwil

1

1

0

Gillo

0

5

0

Gral

1

0

0

Grej

1

1

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Grin

0

2

6

Gilb

1

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Gan

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Gor(

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Hal

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Hu

1

0

0

Hu

1

0

0

Ha

5

0

0

Ho

0

1

0

Ha

6

1

0

Hn

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.

331

£

0.

o.

1

1

0

5

6

0

2

2

0

1

0

0

2

0

0

lU

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Elliot, Capt. T. (Whitelmven) .

1

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Edgell, Capt., R. N. . .

0

10

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Eley, Mrs

1

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0

Fletcher, Son, andTurnal, Messrs

. 50

0

0

Fletcher, J. Esq.

50

0

0

Frazer, Col. Sir A.

5

0

0

Fane, Capt. F. W., R. N.

5

0

0

Finnies, Hon. W. Twisleton

5

5

0

Franklin, Capt. Sir J., R. N. .

5

0

0

Farraday, Michael, Esq.

1

1

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Forbes, J. H., Esq.

1

1

0

Forbes, Capt. Henry

1

0

0

Fleming, Capt. R. H., R. N.
Fuller, William, Esq.

5

0

0

5

0

0

Fowler, Capt. R. M.

5

0

(1

v. J

1

1

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Five kind-hearted Children

1

0

0

Fisher, Capt. Peter

1

0

0

Forbes, John, Esq.

1

1

0

Fisher, Capt., R. N.

5

0

0

Grimble, W., E.sq. .

10

10

0

Gutzner, Lieut. R. A.

1

1

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Grant, Alex., Esq.

5

0

0

Gosse or Gape, H., Esq. .

1

0

0

Garry, N., Esq.

20

0

0

Gray, Miss E. J.

1

0

0

Gray, Miss M. E. .

1

0

0

Gandy, Edward, Esq.

2

2

0

Greer or Green, Lieut., R. N. .

1

1

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Gallop, G. J., Esq.

1

I

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Gatskell, John, Esq.

1

0

0

Gray, F. A., Esq.

3

3

0

Gwilt, J.,Esq.

1

1

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Gillot, Mr

1

0

0

Graham, Charles, Esq.

1

0

0

Greyhurst, Miss

1

0

0

Grindall, Capt. H. E. P., R. N.

1

0

0

Gilbert, Mrs. M.

2

0

0

Gardner, Lieut. J.

5

5

0

Gardner, Lieut. J. (Sundries by)

3

7

6

G. H. F. .

5

0

0

Gordon, A. Durnford, Esq.

20

0

0

Gerningham, J., Esq.

1

1

0

Gladdish, W.,Esq.

5

0

0

Gooby, Rev. James

2

0

0

Gillespies and Co., Messrs.

10

0

0

Gurney, Hudson, Esq.

21

0

0

Greenwood, John, Esq.

1

0

0

Hotham, Adra. Sir W.

20

0

0

Hotham, Adm. Sir H.

20

0

0

Hay, R. W., Esq. .

20

0

0

Hooper, W. H., Esq.

1

0

0

Hibbert,Capt.W.

1

1

0

Halford, Rev. J.

. 2

0

0

Hoppner, Capt., R. N.

■ 1

0

0

Uumphrys, R.,Esq. .

1

0

0

Humphrys, H., Esq.

1

0

0

Hannay, J., Esq.

5

II

0

Hodson, Lieut. Gen. J.

. 2

2

0

Hardwick,J.Esq.

2

0

0

HoHord, R.,Esq.

. 20

0

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Humphry, E. and S.
Hargoud, Adm. Sir W.
Humbert, T. J., Esq.
Hockings, Capt. R., R. N.
Hepburn, Geo., F.
H. .

Henniker, Hon. Capt. and Mrs
Hyett, W. H., Esq. .
Halle«ell, E. G., Esq.
Hammond, Sir G. E.
Hope, Capt. H., R. N.

H. L. II

Hollier, R.,Esq.
Hugonon, Mrs. Gen.
Hooker, Professor Dr. W . J.
Honeycroft, or Thornycroit, Rev

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Hartford, C.R., Esq.

Hobson, J., Esq.

Hamilton, Miss M. A.

Hall, Col. W.

Hare, Mr. Marcus, R. N.

Hare, Miss and Miss M. A.

Hillier, Comm. VV. C.

Hodgson, M. W. T., R. N.

Halket, John, Esq.

Hall, Rev. J.

Hall, Rev. J. F.

Hamilton, Capt. (of Craiglaws)

Hazard, J. and Co. , Messrs.

Jackson, Capt.
Jerdin, W., Esq.
Jones, R. S., Esq.
Jameson, Joseph, Esq.
Jackson, W. H,, Esq.
Jones, Lieut. W. J., R. N.
Jones, Charles, Esq.

J. L

Inglis, Sir R. H., Bart.

Jervois, Capt.

Janson, Messrs. A., and Co.

Jackson, Miss

Jekyll, Capt. John, R.N. .

Journeymen Printers at Mills an

Co.'s ....
Jackson, H. H., Esq.
J. B

Keats, Adm. Sir R.

K. T.,op T. K.

Kolounoff, M., fait A Paris par
Le Comte de Demidoff 200
Madame Baudin 20

Monsieur Thernessen 20
Le Normand et Co. 5

by W. Spence, Esq. Ex. 25 SO
pour ....

Kerr, Neven, Esq.

Kater, Capt. H., R.N.

Kingdom, John, Esq.

Kniglit, W. P., Esq.

King, Adra. Sir R. ,

Kidd, R. C.,Esq.

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LfST OF SUBSCfUBEIlS.

Rinloch, J.,K,sq.

Luckroinl)e, M., Ks(|.
Lindsay, Hon. 11.
Liui«', llev. C.
Lif-ht, T. Es(j.
Lax, J., Ks(|. (Bristol)
L.e,Dr.,K. II. S.
Lloyd, W. H., E,sq.
Lalorey, Adni. Sir KrancLs
Leake, VV.,Es((.
Jiareoiu, Lieut. R. E.
Lambert, i;.,Ks(|.
Lambert, Coliinun
Lon)jf, Kt'v. W.
Laniliert, Adm.
L.imbert, Mrs.
Lambert, Mr. (i.
Longman and Co., Messrs.
Lay, Mrs.

Lemme, or Lucerne, T. L.
Lay, Miss and Miss J.
Libou, Capt., R. N.
Lean, IMr. J. S.
Lanydon, Capt. J.
Ladies (collected by)
Ditto (ditto)

Leake, W. M., Esq.

Marsden, W., Esq.
Montetiore, I\L,Esq.
M'CuUocb, R., Esq.
Mitchell, Henry, Esq.
]\langles, Capt. J., R. N.
Magratb, E., Esq.
Meek, John, Esq.
Morris, C, jun.,Esq.
Morris, Mrs. Charles.
Morris, Miss

Maconochie, Capt., R. N.
Michael, Lieut-Col. E., R. A
Maraillier, Jacob, Esq.
Mangles, John, Esq.
Murphy, Lieut. R. E.
Mangles, R., Esq.
Martin, Josiah, Esq.
Martin, Capt. W. 1-.. R. N.
Manley, Adm.
Martin, Adm. Sir T. B.
Murcheson, R. J., Esq.
M'Kinlay, Adm.
M'Kenzie, John, Esq.
Moore, John, Esq.
Mackenzie, R. Hon. H.
Martin, Sir H.
Mudge, Cap. R. E. .
Murdoch, 'I'homas
Martin, Cap. T., R. N.
Martin, Rev. William,
Marshall, L. J., Esq.
Messiter, Mr. .
Munstings, or Murrislings, Mrs
M. E., or F. M. E. .
Moreshy, I\lr. , ,

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Michael, Miss Mary

IVIurrnv, John, Ivsq.

M'Donald, J., i;s(|. .

M. K. (Siiilling .Sui)scriplions}

Maitland, Miss

Marsden, Mrs. (l)yvV.Spenre, Esr|

Marsden, IMr. (ilitto)

Marsden, ftlr., junior ^ditto)

Nicholson, Mr. R.

Nautical Magazine, Proprietors o

the
N'iciiolson, Mr.
Napier, Richard, Esq.
Napier, Mrs.
Nettle.ship, S ,Ksq. .
Nettleshij), 'r.,l';sq.
Nicholson, CJ. T., Kscj.
Newenhaiu, Lieut. J. P.
Nottige, \V.,K.sq.
Newton, \N illiain, Esq
Name unknown
Nicholson, Sir F.

Ogle, Adm. Sir C.,Rart.
(Jtway, Adm. .Sir R. \V.
Owen, Adni. Sir E. .
Outrani, Dr., R. N.
Otty, Rev. G. F.
Otto, Colonel
Onimanney, Sir F.
Oliverson, T.,Esq.
Oxford (collected by Ladies)
O.d Windsor (.ditto)

Paget. Adm. the Hon. SirC.

I'arkinson and Fordham, Messrs

Philips, J., Esq.

Phillips, H., Esq.

Phillips, T., Esq.

Palmer, H., Esq.

Pasley, Col.C. W. .

Putman, J. Esq.

Prowse, Capt.,W.J.,R. N.

Prescott, Capt.,R. N.

Pechell, Capt.,R. N.

Pepys, Sir W. W. .

P. O

Penrhyn, E.,Esq.

Parry, Caj)t. Sir 1^;., R. N.

Purdy, C. Es(i.

Perie, John, Esq.

Powell, J.C, Esq.

Pillman, Lieut. W., R. N.

Prosser, E. , Esq.

Pascoe, Rev. T.

Packwood, Capt. J.,R. N.

Prowsc, Col. C!. B.

Pym,F., tsq.l^by VV.Speuce,'5sq.)

Quicknail, E.,Esq. . . .

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Ramsilen, IMr. R.
Ruiiisey, Lnrv, Esq.
Rul)l)frj>n]!, Rlrs. T.
R(il)ins.iii,ll.,l';,sq.
Riil)iiisnn, Tv, E,s(|.
Rons, INIiss (jier Adiii. L
Riivnaid.sdn, iMisB .1.
Roitiiits, Messrs., and C
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R(i.V, R., Es(|.
R. 'ri. l>. (by VV. Spence
R. IM.P. (dillo)

R. N. P. (ditto)

R. H. (ditto)

R. I). ...

Revnolds, G. S., Esq.
Rolle.s, Adm. llohert
Rennell, T. T., Esq.
Ross, Sir H. D., Hart.
RoljinsoD, \V. F., Esq.

Shaw, Sir J., Bart.
Sturgeon, C, Esq.
Solley, R. H.,Esq. .
ipence.W., E.sq.
Spence, Mrs. W.
Spence, Master
Siuitli, Capt. J. B., U. N
Sotheby, Capt., R. N.
Simmons, R., Esq.
Stirling, W. Esq.
StirIing,W. ,Esq.
Solly, Mr.
Sliarpe, D.
Smith, Mrs.
Strachan, W.,Esq.
Smyth, Capt.
Sutherland, Doctor .
Scott, Adm. Sir George
Stuckey, P. or V., Esq.
Sothel)y,W.,Esq. .
Stevens, CJ., Esq.
Scott,,!., Esq. .
Smith, Mr.
Smith, Mr. J. .
Smith, Mr. W.
Stone, Mr. W.
Spene, W., Esq.
Scott, Mrs. E. (Canterbury
ShifFuer, Capt,
Sehvyn, Rev. W.
Smith, or South, Sir J.
Sewell, Sir J. .
Sykes, Capt. A. N. .
Stopford, Capt. E.,R. N.
Spence, Capt. R. N.
Stanley, Rev. E.

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Scott, Mr.

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Seymour, Capt. Sir (I.

Stiiplrlon, .Miss A.

Siibine, Capt.

Sundry small Sul)scriptions paid
in by Capt. M. C.

Sall'ron Walden (collected by La
dies) . .

Sundry Subscriptions paid into the
liouse oi Messrs. Spooiier, Atb
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given ....

Sundry Subscriptions paid into the
house of Messrs. Druuinioods,
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Trotter, Sir C. Bart.

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T. T. . . .
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Tregear,V., Es(|.,R.N.
Townley.Uev. Gale .
Thai, .)"., Esq.' St. Petersburgh)
Todd, Col. J., E. I.e.
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Thompson, Aid.. M. P.
T. M.

Thompson, J., Esq. .
Thomp.son, C. J., Esq.
Tucker, Lieut.
Tobin, Capt. G.
Thompson, T., Esq. .
Twopenny, E., Esq. .
Tomlinson, T., Esq. (by W. Spence
Esq.)

Vincent, G. G., Esq. .
Vane, Col. and Mrs.

Warburton, T., Esq. .
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Willich, C. W., E.sq.
Walford, Thomas, Esq.
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Westby, Edmund, Esq.

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LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. •

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Willis, Mr. Francis .
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Winners at Cards
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W. A. . . .
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Esq.) . . .

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f s. (I.

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Bath. Transmitted by James Hannay, Esq.

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Advertisements

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£400

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£ 16 2 6

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10

10

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0

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Adam Hay, Esq.

John Blair, Esq.

John IriHcksv, Esq. .

Miss C. T. ' .

A Lady ....

Doctor Macklogan

/. Mackenzie, Esq., W. S.

Mies Mackenzie

S. and C. Wood

Lieut. Camphell, P. N.

Lieut. Hunn, R. N,

J. Stenhouse (Commercial Bank)

Edward Piper, Es-j.

A Family in Caithness

Alex. Cowan, Esq.

E. Hendevsou, Esq. .

Trinity House, Leith

Capt. Ailcheson, R. N

A. Kirkcaldy .

Anonymous

W. Boyd, Esq. .

Al 1. Pearson, Esq. .

Professor Forbes

Thomas Corrie, Esq. .

Int. at 2 per cent.

Transmitted b> R. Allan

and Son. . £103 11 9

Subscriptions at Stran-
raer included, in the

.53 15 0

. 2

2

0

. 2

2

0

1

0

1

0

1

0

5

0

1

0

0

0

0

0

. 10

0

0

0

II

0

0

1

0

2

0

7

0

0

0

1

(»

. 10

10

0

0

0

. 25

17

0

0

0

1

0

2

2

0

1

0

0

3

3

0

0

3

0

£82

19

6

rtiiove.

49 10 y

N.B— Nolistofsubfr '.^tions received.
£30/. %: subscribed at Dundee, oro-
bably included in this £49/. 1C«. 9d. ;
but neither any li^t from thence.

■BRSf^!5«WB""WH[

wmtm

LIST OF SURSCRIBERS.

33.7

£

*. d.

. 0

10 0

0

10 0

0

2 (3

£ 16

2 ti

John Com- ■

. 10

10 0

0

2 6

0

2 6

0

2 0

0

2 6

0

2 6

0

2 (i

£ U

5 0

r W. Forbes

. 2

2 0

2 0

1 0

1 (1

1 0

5 0

1 0

0 0

0 0

10

0 0

0 0

0 0

) 1

1 0

2 0

7 0

0 0

1 '.;

10

10 0

0 0

25

17 G

0 0

1 0

2

2 0

1

0 0

3

3 0

0

3 0

f'82

19 6

49 IG y

Cheltenham.

Transmitted by Messrs. Pitt

and C 42 2 0

N . B.— No list of Bubscriptioos received.

Exeter. Transmitted by the Rev. W.
Scoretby.

John Neave, Ewj.
.foseph Were, E«tq.
S. Parr, Esq.
John Milford, Ea®.
Samuel Barnes, Esq.
William Nation, Esq
J. B. CreswelJ, Esq.
Rev. W. Scoresl)y
A well-wisher .

Lef)g expenHes.

2 2 0

1 1 0

1 1 0

1 0 0

1 1 0

1 1 0

1 0 0

1 0 0

1 0 0

£ 10
0

6
6

0
0

i'lO

0

0

Hull. Transmitted by W. Spence, Esq.

tVIessrs. J. Sykes and Son

T. Jackson, Esq. (Ferriby)

J. Smith, Esq. (Kirkella) .

J. Terry, Esq. .

Edw. Spence, Esq. .

T. Uodmi'll, Esq.

Messrs.Buck inpfton,W ilson.andCo

Messrs. Holderness and Chilton

S. Horner, Esq.

W. Laverack, Esq. .

T. Thomson.

J. Todd, Esq. .

J. Craven, Esq.

W. Walker (Warehouseman)

Mrs. D. Sykes .

T. W. Palmer, Esq. .

Dr. Chambers .

G. B. Lambert, Esq.

J. Bennett, Esq.

J. T. Foord, Esq.

J. Landerson, Esq. .

W. Brownlow, Esc)

J. Aiikin, Esq.

5

0

0

. 5

0

0

5

0

0

. h

0

0

. 5

0

0

2

0

0

0. 2

0

0

n 2

2

0

a

0

0

1

0

0

1

0

0

1

0

0

1

0

0

1

0

0

1

0

0

1

0

0

0

10

0

0

10

0

. 0

10

0

0

10

0

0

10

0

1

0

0

0

10

0

£ 14 2 0

Glasgow. Fransmittedby J. Leechman,Esq.

Hon. J. Ftving, Lord Provost and

M. P. tor",the City
James I'iartin, Esq.
Hugh Jogan. Esq.
John S. mmerville, Esq.
Willi? m Maclean, Esq.
Jaraes Hutchison, Esq.
Archibald Maclellan, E.sq.

10

10

0

2

2

0

2

0

2

2

0

1

0

2

2

0

1

0

Very Rev. Princiiml Macfarlau

Sir D. K. Sandford

H. .\lonteith of Caratairs, Esq.

J. Smith of Jordanhill. Eaq.

W. Macdowal of Garthland,E8q

R. Napier, Esq., Engineer

W. Dunn, Esq., of Duntocher

C. Campbell, Esq. (Possi')

James Nimmo, Esq.

J. Wood, Esq. (Port Glasgow)

J. Leechman, Esq.

W. Leechman, Esq.

T. Edington, Esq.

C. Hutcheson, Esq.

W. Bennet, Esq.

W. Meikleham, jun., E.«q

Archibald G. Lang, Esq.

Thomas Atkinson, Esq.

M. Brown, junior, Esq.

Professor Ramsay

David Chapman, Esq.

James Thompson, Esq.

Henry Miller, Esq. .

Robert Bartholemew, Esq.

John Bartholmew Esq.

Thomas Bartholemew, Esq

Archibald G. Kielston, Esq

Andrew Liddell, Esq.

R. Douglas Alston, Esq.

Archibald Smith, Esq.

James Buchanan, Esq.

James Finlay, Esq.

Robert Wood row, Esq.

M. M. Patteson, Esq.

Alexander Fletcher, Esq.

G. Ross Wilsone, Esq.

John Crum, Esq.

Walter Crum, Esq.

John Bryce, Esq.

<». Buchanan, Esq., D. H

A. Jamie.son, Esq.

J. Gumprecht, Esq.

John Anderson, Esq.

Charles Stirling, Esq.

W. Leckii Ewing, Esq.

David Ferguson, Esq.

Rev. John Forbes

John Alston, Esq.

Walter Buchanan, Esq.

William Smith, Esq.

James Campbell, Esq.

James Brown, Esq.

W. G. Anderson, Esq.

George Hunter, Esq.

John Loudoun, Esq.

Robert Kinnier, Esq.

William Hamilton, Esq.

Archibald Bogle, Esq.

John Downie, Esq.

James Donaldson, Esq.

Jcmes Dennistoun, Esq.

Messrs. R. Dalgliesh, and C'

James Lumsden, Esq.

George Parker, Esq.

£

i
1

*. d.

2 0

1 U

10 0 U

5 5 0

5 0

5 0
5
5
1

2
1
2
2

2
2

0
0

0
0 0

2
2
2
2

0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0

3 3 0

1 1

1 1

1 1

2 2
2 2
1 1

1 1
2
2

2
2
2

1 1
1 1

0
0
0
0
0
0
2 0
0

1 1

1 1

1 1

1 1

1
1
1
2
2

1 ]
1 1
1 1

1 1
1 1

1 1

I 1

1 1

1 1

1 1

I 1

2
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0
0
0
0
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0
0
0
0
0
0
0

2 0
2 0
0
0
0
0
0
0
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0
0
0

u

0
0
0
0
0
0
0

2 0 0

2 2 ll

2 0

1 0

1 0

mf^

;\M

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.

Richard KidMton, Esq.

Alexander (Jarden, E.sq.

.1. ('.. Watson, Ks(|.

Thomas Buchanan, Esq.

.lanx.'s liuclianan, Esq.

Allan Ruclianan, Esq.

Robert Hlackie, Ivsf|.

.1 A. Anderson, Esfj.

Robert Stewart, E.s(j.

.lames Ellis, Es(|.

\V. llall,Es(i. .Kilmarnock)

John Whitehead, Es(|.

Munj;o Campbell, Esq.

I'eter Steward, Esq.

Professor Mvlne,

W. Wilson, Esq.

T. S. Thomson, Esq.

Doctor ]M. S. Buchanan

.lames Ricbardscm, junior, Esq.

W. Rennet, Esq.

(Jeorjre Warden, Esq.

^^illian1 iMathieson, Esq.

Michael Rowand, E.s(|.

T. Dunlop Douf^las, Esq. .

Ceor<;'e Schevi/., l']s(|.

.lohn Smith, youngest, Esq.

Henry Paul, l']s(|.

R. llastie Lesmahap^ow

William .lamieson, Esq.

M. Campbell, jtinior, Esq.

John Jaraieson, junior, Es(|.

Matthew Alexamler, I'sq. .

Alexander Graham, Esq. .

William Middleton, Est]. .

Alexander Wilson, Es((.

Professor Sconllar

Lord John Campbell .

Doctor James J alVray

Rev. P. Ma'cmaster <^iervan

Adam Wilson, Esq.

William Murray, Esq.

Andrew Johnston, Esq.

Alexander Morrison, Esq. .

Doctor P. Whiteside, Ayr

Colin Dunlop, Esq.

Charles IM'lnto.sh, Esq.

rieorge M'Into.sh, Esq.

Doctor A. J. Ilauuay .

J. Hannay, E.sq.

I

2

£ 'i

Meetine;. Adverti.sements. ^.i

i 1

1
•i

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

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1
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t» 0

0 0

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1 (■)

<}«EENorK. TraiixmiHed hij C. OiKjhierson,

Esq.

J. Oughterson, Esq. .
y. and J. Leitch, Esqrs.
Roiiert Steel, Esq.
W illiam Maclie, Es(|.
Jaraes Stuart, Esq. .

Robert Angu.s. .

Messrs. J. Scott and Sons

Andrew Ramsay, Esq.

■Messrs. Hunter, and Co.

IMe.nsrs. J. Hunter and Co

liobert Iv.ving, Es(|. .

.lames Bitchie, Esq. .

Adam i\l'Leish, Esq. .

James Hunter, Esq.

James Watt, Esq.

IMessrs. R. and (i. Blair

\\'illiam Simons, Escj.

.lolin Gray, E.sq.

Maitland \i unf^, Esq.

Thomas I'ariie, ilstj.

Houston Sh'wart, Esq.

C!eorj;'e Noble, Esq. .

Ninian I lill, Esq.

Jauies Miller, Es(|.

Messrs. Allan Ker and Co.

R. Wallace, Es(i., M. P.

Rev. T. Brown Innerkip)

R. Jamieson, Esc]. of Gla.sgow

Messrs. Bownlie, Buchanan, and

Co.
Walter Bain, junior. Esq
Mrs. Crooks (Leven)
Alexander Croal, Esq.
Thomas Nichol, Esq.
David Heron, Esq. .
Roger Ayton, Esq.
J. Campbell, Esq. (Kilblain)

£

5

.')
.'i
.5

5
h
5
2
.5
2
2
2
2
2
2

2
3

1
5

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0
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Additional

£ lao 14
4. M

3 0

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5 .5 t)

-.{ ;{ I)

3 ;{ (t

0 10 6

0 10 6

^ 10

I 1

1 1

6
0
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£ \'.\h 7 0

N. B. — £4. 12s. tirf. received above
the amount of this List, but tliere
is no means of accounting for if.

Liverpool. Transmitted hy Lord Vismunt
Snndou, through Adin. Sir W. Hot/uttn,

K. c. n.

The Mayor

Lr)rd Viscount Sandon
James Aspinall, Esq,
Robertson "^Jladstone, Esq.
Sir Thomas Branker
T. B. Horsfall, Esq.
H. R. Sand bach, Esq.
Jolin Moss, Esq.
Henry Moss, Esq.
W^illiani Latham, Esq.
Arnold Harrison, Esq.
Thomas Tobin, Esq.
Charles Jianrence, Esq.
Francis Shand, Es(|.
Henry Stevenson, Esq.
William J urrie, Esq.
John Ewart, Es().
William Hadlield, Esq.

n

0

u

0

0

0

0

0

(1

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

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0

0

0

0

LIST OF SL'BSCKIBEKS.

X\',

I'

X

(t

0

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;i

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IJ

5

5

0

i)

5

0

5

5

0

5

5

0

5

5

0

5

5

1)

5

5

0

2

2

0

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5

0

2

2

0

2

2

0

2

2

0

2

2

0

2

2

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0

. 0 10

6

. .y 10

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1 1

0

1 1

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4.12

V,

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rd Viscount

V. Hothum,

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0

I 1)

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1 0

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1 0

II

1 0

0

1 0

0

1 0

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1 0

0

1 0

0

I 0

0

1 Kt

II

1 0

0

1 0

0

1 0

0

1 0

0

I u

0

U. M'Andrew, Esq. .

William K. Cwart, Esq.

Harniood Hanner, Esq.

Elias Arnaud, Esq.

J. Sanders, Esq.

R. B. . . .

A Friend, per J. C. Nic

Esq.
Mrs. Jones
C. S. Parker, Esq.
Richard Ratlibone, Esq.
Thomas Booth, Esq. .
Alexander M'Gregor, Esq
M. D. Loundes, Esq
Thomas Wilso". Esq.
John Woolwright, Esq.
n. C. Buchanan, Esq.
H. Garston, Esq.
K. A. Fletcher, Esq.
R. Aleson, Esq.
Richard Dobson, Esq.
H. Ilargreaves, Esq.
S. Carson, Esq.
Thomas Langton, Esq.
(3. M'Minn, Esq.
T. Fletcher, Esq.
John Machell, Esq.
Henry Ashton, Esq.
Edward Guffen, Esq.
Henry Wilson, Esq.
Mk8. James Dawson
Robert Horsfall, Esq.
William Myers, Esq.
William Comer, Esq.
John Taylor, Esq.
Rober* Preston, Esq.
William W'aier, Esq.
Hardinan Earle, Esq.
W. Joseph Myers, Esq.
Francis Haywood, Esq.
James Cocksholt, Esq.
R. B. B. IloUinshead, Esq
Henry Harrison, Esq.
George Holt, Esq.
Daniel W aterhouse, Esq
Thomas Harrison, Esq.
James M'tJregor, Esq.
Arnold Littiedale, Esq.
Stewart Gladstone, Esq.
.Foseph Hornby, Esq.
Isaac Cooke, Esq.
Henry Robson, Esq.
Thomas Brocklebank, Esq.
J. B. Yates, Esq.
William Potter, Esq.
John Hall, E.sq.
Joseph Langt(m, Es((.
James Giifillim, Esq.
James Hayworth, Esq.
Ormerod Hayworth, Ivsq.
William Rotheram, E^(|
George Grant, Es(i.
William Hrown, Es(|
Laurence Heyworlli. I';..(|

i

.V. d.

1

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0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

r> 0

lolson

0 0

0 0

1 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

10 0

0 0

0 0

10 u

10 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

1 0

0 J

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

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0 0

0 0

0 0

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0 0

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0 0

0 0

0 0

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0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

0 0

II 0

1

II 0

1

0 0

(J. Brown Everton. Es(|.
Saniut'i Bright, Esq.
John Cr(q)per Everton, Esq
W. Jf'ininett Brown, Esq.
W. F. Porter, Esq.
Duncan CJibl), Esq. .
Ridiard Harrison Esq.
William Nicol, Esq. .
V\ illiara Laird, Esq. .
Thomas Leatliom, Esq.
Nicholas Roskell, Es([.
William Dixon, Esq.
Thomas Bolton, Esq.
John Redgway, Esq.
William Jones, '^sq.
William M'Cracken, Esq.
Henry Holmes, Esq.
John Holmes, Esq.
Samuel Hope, Esq.
Moses Edwards, l']sq.
William Smith, Es(|.

Expenses

1 .s

d.

1 1)

0

1 0

0

1 0

0

1 0

0

1 0

0

I 0

II

1 0

0

1 0

0

1 (1

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1 II

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11

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I II

II

I II

II

1 0

II

1 0

II

111 7

II

1 r.i

II

£ 109 II 0

(Signed) James Aspinall, Treaniirer.
Masham. Hi/ W. Sjicnre, fix(/.

W illiam Danby, Esij.
Timothy Hutton, Es().
Samuel Wratlirr, Esq.
Captain Wrather
Miss Wrather .
Miss E. Spence.

N'ewhikv. Trnnsmittpd lii/ l\ Pdijr and
J. E. Winter /luftoin, h^sqrs.

2

0

(1

0

0

>>

0

0

:■»

0

II

C. Eyre, Esq. .

C.J

S. H.

J. Pearse, Esq. (Chilton Lodge)

F. Page, Esq. (Goldwell) .

J. E. Winterbottoni, Esq. (Wood

hay) ....
Collected ....
P. Duncan, Esq. (New College

OxCord). . . . '
J. Duncan, Esq. (Bath)
C. Siocork, Es(|. (Donington)
11. Tull, junior, Esr|. (Crookhani
B. Tull, E-sq. (Ditto).
Lieut. Le Mesurier, l{. N.
A. Siocork, Esq. (Newbury)
— Chatteris, Escj. (Newtown)
J. B

Colled, '.I ....
IMi.s lirinton

I II II

II 2 <>
II 2 ()
1 1 0

;{ 0 0

3 0 n

0 I.') II

I
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II III II
I II (I

I II II

II III II

0 l.'i (I

1 II

0 II

II II

II II

II II

II

22

^^pr

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■M

?'88

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.

R. Compton, Esq.
Collected by LadieH .
J. F. Winderbottoiu, Esq.
R. J. Winterbottoiu, Esq.
Mrs. Winterbottom. .
MissWinterbottom .
Mm. Page.

£

,«.

u.

0

0

Iti

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

1

0

2

0

0

^5J7 13 0

PORTTMOUTH. TransmUted by J. Pinhorn,
Esq., Secretary to the late Admiral Sir
T. Foley, G. C. B. , ;.

Col. SirR. Williams, K. C. B.
Major-Gen. Sir H. Worseley,

K. C.B,H. E. I. C. S. .
S. Goodrich, Esq.
Capt. W. Turner, R. N.
Capt. Askew, R. N. .
Rear-Adm. Sir T. L. Maitland
Edward Casher, Esq.
H. Deacon, Esq.
Lieut. Godencfi, R. N.
Lord Colchester
Capt. Robert Tait, R. N. .
Countess of'Northesk

Capl. Frazer, Revenue Service
Lieut. Sanhey, R. N.
Mr. May, Savings' Bank '. '.
Miss Ann Arthur

£

s.

d.

0

5

0

0

i

6

0

2

6

0

2

(i

£ 10 12 0
Postage 0 2 0

£ 16 10 0

Stranraer. Transmitted through Messrs.
R. Allen and Son, Bankers, Edinburgh. ^

Plymouth.

Esq.

Shilling Subscriptions

Shillings and Sixpences, in a
Box placed at Commercial
Rooms, Plymouth, and after-
wards at Devonport

Miss Darracott

2 0 0

5 0 0

. 1 0 0

. 1 0 0

1 0 0

.■j 0 0

1 0 0

1 0 0

0 12 0

. 5 0 0

1 0 0

. 1 0 0

i'24 12 0

mes White,

14 14 0

0 15 6

0 10 0

Sir J. Hay, Park Place, Bat.

A. M'Dowall of Logan, Esq.
S. Cathcart of Genoch, Esq.
F. H. Blair of Dunskey, Esq

B. Stewart, M. P.
Rev. P. Ferguson (Inch) .
Lieut.-Col. R. M'Dowall
Doct. Ritchie (Challoch) .
Capt. Hutchison, R. N.
Rev. D. Wilson (Stranraer)
Rev. W. Kergoe (Newluse)
Rev. W. Rose (Kirkcolm)
Mr. C. Morland (Stranraer)
Mr. A. M'Neei (Ditto)
Mr. J. Douglas (Ditto)
Mr. R. Wilson (Ditto)
Mr. A. M'Dowall (Ditto)
Mr. W . M'Kinnel (Ditto)
Mr. J. Paterson (Ditto)
Mr. J. Agnew (Ditto)
Mr. S. Gartley (Ditto)
Mr. VV. Main (Ditto)
Mr. A. Irvine (Ditto)

10 10 0

10 10 0

5 5 0

5 0

2 0

5
2
3
2

3 0
2 0

0
0
0
0
0
0

1 u

1 0

1 0

1 0

0 10 0

0 10 0

0 5 0

£ 53 15 0

THE END,

5 0