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Thursday, June 23th. — Alice and I, accompanied by our Jog " Sam," sailed from Liverpool, in the Allan Line Steamer, "Caspian," bound to Quebec, for a hunt in the prairies to the West of Manitoba. We sighted the Straits of Belleisle, between the north of Newfoundland and Labrador, on July 6th, after a fair passage. Wo met but few icebergs, what we saw being principally aground in the Straits, and arrived at Quebec on Monday, 9th. We left Quebec the following day, by boat, for Montreal ; and thence, by boat, to Toronto; and thence, the following day, to Niagara, where we arrived July 14th. After enjoying the wonderful Falls for three days, we returned to Toronto, and taking the rail to Collingwood, embarked in the steamer, "Cumberland," for Duluth, the western extremity of Lake Superior. The "Cumberland" ran hard and fast at the river of Nipigon, where she remained for three days, giving us time for some good trout fishing. The water rising, floated the steamer off, and we proceeded to Prince Arthur's Landing, where the Captain coolly wished to land the passengers, to wait for another boat, in order that he might be back to Collingwood in time for his next trip. Naturally, we distinctly declined, having booked in the " Cumberland" to Duluth. So, he unwillingly proceeded; but, shortly after, sighting an American steamer bound to Duluth, he asked us to change over, which we agreed to on condition cabins were found us. So, signalling the American, we ran alongside, and changed over ; and the "Cumberland," turning round, steered away back for Collingwood, which place, however, she was fated never to reach, for, as we heard afterwards, two hours after we parted, she ran twelve knots on a reef, and became a total wreck : all hands were saved. July 25th, we arrived at Duluth, a small American "city." The Scenery on Lake Superior is certainly fine, and, in summer, the passage across it is most enjoyable, the weather being deliciously cool, from the extreme coldness of the water of the lake. 26th. — We left Duluth by Northern Pacific Eailway, and ran through to Fisher's Landing, on Red Lake Eiver, a small river running into the Ecd Eiver. Fisher's Landing is a horrible place, consisting of three huts, and four or five drinking saloons. Fortunately, we found the Red Eiver Steamer waiting for us, and embarked at once The steamer was the "Manitoba," and we found her accommodation, in the cabins on her deck house, far better than we expected ; but never had we seen such navigation. The river, about fifty yards in breadth, is so winding, and with such short turns and double turns, that the steamer seemed never to be able to go fifty yards without crashing into one bank or the other ; and, as the banks are covered with forest, timber, and undergrowth to the edge, you may imagine how odd it seemed. It was like being in a steamer suddenly stranded in the middle of a forest. At night, two huge lamps, with enormous lenses, were set forward on each bow, to serve to light the way, and, I suppose to avoid going full butt into heavy tree trunks. The bright light, thrown on the foliage and trees, had the prettiest effect. Following Eed Lake Eiver down, we entered the Eed Eiver. There were what we, after Eussian Lapland experiences, thought were a few mosquitoes, but what everyone on board seemed to think very many, for they wrapped up in gauze veils and gloves, and made a great fuss about them. We arrived at Fort Garry, or Winnipeg, as the town is called here, Sunday, July 29th, at 1 p.m., and found not whnt we expected— a Hudson Bay fort, and a few huts round it— but quite a nice little town, and really a large and fair hotel. We called, armed with our letters of introduction, at Mr. Grahame's bouse, the H.B. chief commissioner, and found a pleasant quiet gentleman, who kindly and courteously re- ceived us, and introduced us to Mrs. Grahame. He was most civil, and promised to do all he could to ft ther our views. Wt went to a nice church in the evening. Next day, Mr. Grahame introduced us to Mr. McTavish, another H.B. officer, and drove us in his buggy down to a Mr. McKay, an ex-H.B . oflBcer, some six miles out of Winnipeg, to make arran^'ements for our trip. Winnipeg is built at the junction of the Assiniboiuv? and Ecd Rivers. Both are bordered by more or less timber. Outside this stretches the level prakie ; now, in many places, under cultivation, growing enormous crops of wheat. Not finding McKay at home, we returned — Mr. Grahame leaving word for him to come to the hotel, where he duly arrived in the evening, and made arrangements to start me on Saturday next, as the Governor- General Lord Dufferin, is to arrive here on Monday next, and, if he arrives before we start, it v ill delay us much. We are to have three carts, and three men, and a hunter or guide, and thirteen horses. I expect to have to buy one or two horses besides. Wo spent, whilst at Winnipeg, two pleasant evenings with Mr. and Mrs. Grahame. He showed us all there was to be seen at the Fort, the large warehouses, where furs, in bales by the thousand, were being despatched to England, having come in from every part of the great north-west country. The Fort itself, the scene of the Bed River rebellion, is an oblong stone wall, flanked at the four corners by four towers, loopholed for musketry. Inside the wall is a raised platform, running round, for riflemen, and a strong gateway opens out facing the Assiniboine. Inside are the stjres, officers' houses, and a large house and garden belonging to the Chief Commissioner, but now let 0 the Governor of Manitoba. In the stores you may bvy anything, from a lady's white satin shoe to an anchor. Mr. Grahame also kindly gave me a letter to all H.B. Co. officers in charge of forts, directing them to supply me with all I need, to give us and our party all assistance we may need, and to further my plans in every way in their power — in fact, nothing could exceed his and Mr. McTavi ;h's kindness. Saturday, Aug. 4th, we started, McKay sending us two horses to ride over to his house, where we were to meet the other horses. Two carts came also for our baggage. A half-breed, named Antoine Wallett, who has been employed as scout and guide by the North-west Mounted Police, comes as our guide. We dined with Mr. McKay, and thou got away. Our party consists of our two solves, and dog ; Antoine Wallett, guide ; George, a halt breed, cook"; and Villeneuve and Johnny— the first a half-breed, the latter a full-blooded Sioux — their duties arc, to attend to the horses, cut wood, &c. We have thirteen horses and three carts. Our trail lay along the prairie, about four miles from, and parallel to the course of the Assiniboine. It being late, we got out only sixteen miles, and camped near a place called Xa ,ier. Our pocket filters were most useful, as the water hereabout is not good. Next day, wo had a thuuderstcrm in the morning; these storms are frequent and excessively severe on the pran-ics. Mr. Grahame, before starting, ir.ade us change onr tent poles, which were iron-tipped, for plain wood ones, as, on the level prairie, a tent pole tipped with iron would be most dangerous in a thunderstorm. In the afternoon, aft r service, we moved on five miles to White Horse Plains, where we got some milk and eggs from a squatter, j he Assiniboine River is settled all along its banks, as far as the Portage ; and, further on even than this, there are a few detached farms. The soil is excessively rich, and will grow anything. The cultivation streiches a mile or two in from the river banks, and beyond this lies the unbroken prairie, now covereu with wild roses, and many other flowers, whilst, here and there, dotted about like islands, are patches of willow and '-— '■ Now and then, one comes on water-holes, or a little crock, whose water trickles slowly through scrub. the long grass, to join the waters of the Assiuibohie, running into the Red River, through the great lake of Winnipog, finally to find its way into the icy waters of Hudson's Bay. These creeks and water-holes, a httle later, all swarm with wild fowl. Next day, passing a herd of horst ', Antoine shewed me a good- loolang horse— he was a curious, ivory-cream colour— that he said was well known as a wonderfully good buflfalo runner, six-year-old. So, after some haggling with the owner, I bought him, and rode him off He IS what the Indians call in very good condition, i.e., very fat ; but ho will soon get better of that. He stands perfectly still when I fire off his back. We named him " Lo Juif," from the c vuotB hacBlinff so much. °° •* Wo spoak to the half-breeds in French, which they all understand and speak well, except the Sioux. v;no speaks English. *. > r i \yc have named our horses ; Ally's are " Sarah,' "Gipsy," a good looking black mare ; and "Jhnmy a nice looking chestnut— and a iittle bay horse I teudencicH. Antouw V/allctt rides a black horse of his^own— a chestnut we named " LoufffoUow" a httle black pony, very good, but not fast, named "The Plug," Johnny drives the first cart, to which the reins of the horse' m the second cart are attached. Georffe the sccVnd cart Villeneuve, mounted, drives the loose horsos; the English ensign flioa over Ally and I, used usually to ride on ahead of the carts with Antoine Wallett, and I amused myself with Bhootmg prairic chicken (or pinnated grouse), of which, however, there are very few this yew ; diToki h," an excellent blaokbrown mare, with tan muzzle ; my," a very fast pony. I ride "Le Juif "— " Red Fox," I bought at McKay's, called " The Buck," from liis I of his own— a chestnut we named " Longfellow"— and • /ik^ J Bioux, •fl I, < LJ I h o and pigeons fectopittes migratorius ). There are several kinds of duck, the common mallard, the black duck {anas obscura), and the blue-winged teal (querquedula discora) ; we see also the Sandhill crane {grvs canadensis), but these wary birds seem unapproachable. Everywhere running through the grass into their holes are small weasel-like animals, called here, gophers.* They are something like the lemming of Northern Europe, but are beautifully marked in longitudinal stripes of black and yellow, the stripes narrowing gradually towards the head and tail ; on the black stripes are yellow — brilliant yellow — spots ; these spots are larger in the middle or broader part of the stripe, and become gradually smaller as the stripes diminish. They are a curious little animal, and if you do not frighten them by moving suddenly, will let you watch them from quite close. We saw them eat grass and roots, but I suspect they are not averse to a little animal food, for we found quite a number of prairie chickens' heads at the mouth of one of their holes. They wore so confiding one didn't like to shoot them, so I did not get one as a specimen. After two or three days of the same kind of country, we found the patches of cultivation getting fewer and fewer, until passing the Grand Portage, a pretty little village, where we sheltered from a thunderstorm at the H.B. Go.'s Store ; we left cultivation behind us after crossing Bat Greek. The country now altered, there was more timber, scrub, and marshes — here mounted on " Red Fox," and Ally on "Longfellow," we had a good gallop after a large wolf; but failed, although we nearly overhauled him, to get him, as the beast did me in some thick scrub. At Les Trois Gollines we found a Mr. Mackinnon settled with his wife and family. They were very hospitable, giving us eggs, milk, and vegetables. They spoke very highly of the capabilities of the soil, but said that a man with capital could make cattle raising answer even better. TVe have passed several Sioux lodges made of buffalo skins; the Sioux men painted in stripes with Vermillion, yellow and blue ; their long black hair plaited, and feathers stuck upright in a circlet round the head ; they wore gaudy-coloured leggings, and a blanket thrown over the shoulders. We were much struck with the fine open face of one man, about sixty, though still a fine looking active man, standing quite six feet in his mocassins. Outside, near each Lodge, is stuck up the medicine stick. This is the branch of a tree with a parcel of something wrapped in old odds and ends of cloth, hung in it. I asked, through Antoine Wallett, what was inside, but they would only answer, a secret. Antoine told us the medicine stick is taken carefully into the Lodge at sunset, and taken out and stuck up at sunrise. These Bioux are a remnant who have fled from American ground, for protection on British soil, after an atrociously cruel massacre of whites in Dacotah. There are a good many skunks about. Sam haa already made acquaintance with this horrid little beast. I had shot one and Sam went to retrieve it, the beast was not dead, though fortunately nearly so, however it had life enough to give Sam a mild dose in his face ; poor dog, he rolled and ran, and ran and rolled to get rid of the odour — and his company was not agreeable for some days. Our men eat them and esteem them highly, and say that the smell of the " titchcock," as they call him, has medicinal virtues ; probably, as it is most beastly. The flesh is very white and excessively fat, but as it has a faint taste of the smell, is uneatable except to the initiated. Antoine tells us long stories about Indians, and of the days of what was called Le Grand Brigade. Up to within the last two or three years, it was unsafe for the half-breed hunters to venture after buffalo, unless in strong parties. So one large party or brigade was formed — this brigade numbered many hundreds of families, each man bringing his wife and children, horses and carts. A chief was elected, whose orders were implicitly obeyed — he was assisted by several councillors — captains were chosen, and squadrons of men put under their orders. Frequently they had a priest in the brigade, and then mass was performed regularly on Sundays, on which day no hunting was ever allowed. When camp was pitched, all the carts, shafts, inwards, and wheels locked close togelLer, wore drawn up to form a huge circle, the Lodges were pitched in the centre, a squadron was told off to mount guard for the night, double sentries were placed, and it was the duty of the captain of the guard to go the rounds and visit the sentries, especially a little before sunrise. By these and many other precautions, the half-breeds lived, literally surrounded by hostile Indians, frequently in large numbers, almost always outnumbering themselves ; and managed to provide for themselves and families, by buffalo hunting, rarely having any oasualities, though constantly attacked ; and seldom losing many horses. Holes were dug in the centre of the ring, into which, in case of attack, the women and children were thrust. Yilleneuve made us laugh very much one evening by the camp fire, by his graphic description of his sufferings as a small boy, jammed at the bottom of a hole, and squashed down again each time he tried to raise his head to look out. When we arrived at the Grand Bapids of the Assiniboine, we found a small brigade of half breeds, waiting whilst a skin boat was being made to cross. One named Brelan, an elderly man, was head of the brigade, and was most civil, giving us some beef — they had just killed a bullock— and promising to Bend us across the first, when the boat was completed. He said his wife was very ill ; I went to see her, and treated her for overmuch fresh beef, with great success. The boat was now finished, and we wore invited to cross. It was a framework of wood, lashed together with raw hide, in shape like an oblong box. This frame was covered with buffalo hides, sewn together, and securely lashed round. The bottom is then filled up with loose branches, and a capital boat is completed ; it is drawn backwards and forwards auro.ss the river by means of a rope. We crossed first with Brelan and his favourite horse, who stepped into the boat like a dog, and stood perfectly still whilst we were being pulled across. Hn was a very good-looking horse, about fivo years old, aud hearing that ho was very fast, I, not without dilHoulty, '->V'W%"-"''''*''f"' !! got Brelan to Bell him to me. Onr carts, loaded, were then hanled across one at a time, and then onr horses were swum over ; they readily took to the water and crossed safely, led by the "Jew" and "Sarah." We camped the opposite side, and amused ourselves watching the half-breeds swimming their horses across. Next day was Sunday, and after reading, I enquired for Antoine, who appeared rather boosy, his friends in the brigs'''} having evidently liquored him up in the most princely manner. I moved camp, and on his recovering read him a smart lecture. We found a beautiful place to camp, a little stream with well- wooded banks, and about a mile off, on the other side, a low mountain covered with timber. Crossing the stream we hunted this carefully for tracks on the following day, but without success, seeing only a solitary fox. We therefore struck camp, and moved on to the southward and westward, till we struck the Souris River, which we followed, hunting the thickets which line its banks. We found a few tracks of mule deer and Virginian deer. One evening I started off alone into one of the thick wooded points, and forcing my way through twined masses of hops and convolvuluses, found some fairly fresh tracks. I hunted on carefully towards the camp, when, just as I thought 1 was getting clear of the wood I was stopped by a lake, laying right between me and the camp. I tried to th« left, but there the lake joined the river, so went back to the right, only to be confronted by the lake again. This was not amusing ; the sun was very low, and forcing one's way through so dense an undergrowth very fatiguing; however, not caring to wet my rifle by swimming the lake, which was not more than fifty yards across, but deep, I tried still farther back to the right, and came to the lake again. It was impossible to follow the edge of the lake, the undergrowth there being quite impenetrable, and nowhere could I see twenty yards iu front of me. So I took a drink of water, and lit a pipe, and sat down to consider. Evidently, I was on a peninsula, and the only waj', besides swimming, was to get back the way I came in. So I set to work, and, after half-an-hour's fight through the bushes, hit my old trail. Then, when in the thickest under- wood, up jumped two hind wapiti close to me, and disappeared long before I could disentangle myself from the creepers enough to get my rifle up to my shoulder — it was provoking. However, sticking to my trail iu I got clear, just after sunset, and was very glad to see Ally riding up, followed by Antoine with led horse for me to ride back to camp, as I was quite tired. Next day, we found some fresh tracks by the river that we could not make out, but the mystery was solved by Villeneuve galloping up to us, saying they had seen two buffalo ahead of the carts. We galloped off at once. Ally was riding " Sarah ;" Antoine, "Longfellow ;" and I, the horse I bought from Brelan," which we had named " Doctor." Villeneuve rode with us, to shew us \vhere they had seen the buffalo. Arrived at the top of one of the mounds of the rolling prairie, we saw two big buffalo calves quietly feeding, and charged them at once. Away they went, at a pace that surprised me ; indeed it is wonderful how such an apparently clumsy beast shews such great activity. " Doctor," at first, was frightened, never having seen buffalo before, but he soon got his blood up. I was very pleased to find him very fast. When I got alongside I missed the first shot clear, from putting my rifle to my shoulder ; the best way firing at a gallop being to take a quick sight, with both arms quite extended. I then shot them both after a most capital and enjoyable gallop. Antoine went wild with excitement, holloaing, shrieking, whooping, and gesticulating. We sent for a cart to bring them into camp, and we were ibinking of breakfast, when back came the cart with only one calf, the men saying the other, on their attempting to put him into the cart, had suddenly resuscitated, charged the men, whom he had put to flight, and had made off. I saddled the "Jew," and started off in pursuit, but had quite a long gallop before I overhauled and shot him ; the "Jew" coursed and turned him like a greyhound does a hare. The buffalo Lad only been stunned by the first shot. Close by camp I shot two large ducks (anas obscura). Next day we came to the Tete de la Biche, or North Antler Creek; here we found a Sioux (or Dacotah as they call themselves) grave ; it was made of wooden bars crossed, and looking through we saw the dish placed with food for the use of the -leceased on his way to the happy hunting grounds. The wolves had long since devoured both the food and the poor remains. Following the creek some fifteen miles, we crossed it, and made across to South Antler Creek. We had an excitement on onr way by Villeneuve reporting buffalo, but as we, on going up, saw neither buffalo nor tracks, he 'Jiust have mistaken some antelopes {antihcapm Americana) or caori, as the half- breeds call them for buffalo ; the mirage on the prairie magnifying objects till almost unrecognisable. And we have entered the antelope country, and saw one ourselves, but out of shot. Next day we struck across to strike the Souris River, but Antoine got out of his reckoning, and we did uot arrive ; and as the only wood to be found grows by the creeks and rivers, and as there were too few buffalo for us to use their droppings to burn, the usual prairie fuel, we had to boil our kettle with dry grass, a work of much time and trouble. The following morning we struck the Souris, but we didn t know whether north or south of the boundary. We tried some miles south to find the boundary trail, but failing, ♦ 'tned north again. We had found a place to cross, when we discovered buffalo on the other Bide ar lougli latisli started after them, Ally on " Sarah," I on " Doctor," and Antoine on Longfolow • within a hundred -ards of them, tlie ground being favourable, and charged ; there r/lrTi '^n^f T^ large one, . a cow with two calves. I rode for the big bull, and after a ^n^ „if.fi ^' ^ ^A. \-^T' r^ ^i'^VP"! '"""• .''"^ *^"'" """^^ f°' *!»« ««°o°^ »>«»• Antoino raising the S^ r/i fV'"'''^ *"' ''"'''' ""^ f'°''^'- x^"y '^'^ "P- ««"»"» «P to tli« second buU. I dropped him, and to Antome a surprise remed up, as I did not wish to kill the cow with her calves. Then AUy called out "The first bull's off again," and true enough he had got up and was making off. Away I went after him, and as he had got half a mile start, had a long gallop. After about two miles, down a gully went the bull ; the gully ran at an angle to our course, so now was my chance, and cutting off the comer, I rode at him, round he whipped and charged ; " Doctor" spun round on his hind legs and fled, and the bull stopped. Steadying the " Doctor," who was scared, I got a fair shot, and dropped him. After cutting his tongue out, I lit a pipe and started to find the others, which I soon did. Then Ally told me that the other buffalo had lain with his four heels up for some time, and that she had thought of dismounting to see if it was quite dead, before she rejoined me ; but that Antoine coming up she had told him to do so. But the bull suddenly got up, and although Antoine fired at it (with my muzzle loader, which he carried under strong orders never to use it except in emergency), and he said hit it again, the bull got off into a gully. It was most providential AUy did not dismount. We returned to cut up and skin No. 1, and then proceeded to look for No. 2; but it was now dark, and although we caught sight of him for an instant, I never got another shot, and lost him in the darkness. We had some difiiculty in finding our camp, it being very dark, and we did not exactly know where they had pitched. The following morning we tried to find the wounded bull, but the fire was running on the prairie, and the air was thick with smoke, and we never found him. In the evening we tried up the river, and not far from camp saw some Virginian deer feeding ; they bounded at once into cover, having seen us. I dismounted, and going back stole up the edge of the wood to where they had entered, and then crept quietly on their tracks, which were easily followed from the trail having been much used. Stalking cautiously some way by a clump of oak trees, I caught sight of two ears erect above the willows, deeing no stag, I aimed below, and in line with the ears, and fired. Coming up, I found a large Virginian deer, a hind, quite dead, the bullet having passed through the neck, cutting the spine in two. This species of deer has many names, the right one being Virginian deer (cervus lencnrus, or cariacus Virginianus — "Gray.") It is also known as the red deer, or white-tailed deer, or jumping deer, from the series of bounds it makes instead of galloping In summer its coat is a bright red, becoming grey or mouse colour in autumn, the tail remaining always white. The half-breeds call it the chevrcuil, in common with the mule deer {cariacm mncrotis). They are found in the wooded courses of rivers, and are seldom seen far from cover, feeding in and close outside the thickets in which they hide during the day. They are about the size of the fallow deer. We found the flesh excellent, and vastly superior to tough bull bison beef. Next day I shot another, but saw no stags, although I tracked a wapiti stag some distance ; but he had swum the river and I lost him. We met a brigade of half-breed buffalo hunters coming from the west, or setting sun, as they say here. They report Sitting Bull's Band of Sioux as getting trouble- some, that he is at present camped in the Wood Mountains, and has commenced stealing horses, and that they, the half-breed brigade, were returning for fear of them. They recommend us not to venture much farther. Moved on to the Riviere des Lacs, which we reached at noon, when Villeneuve told us there was a noted elk or wapiti hunter with the brigade we had passed. So we determined to go back and try to catch them up, leaving our camp where it was. Accompanied by Villeneuve, leading a horse, to bring the elk hunter back on, we started and had a long gallop, not catching up the brigade before sundown, on the east side of the Souris. A half-breed named Gardepaix, at once invited us to his Lodge, and a thunderstorm coming on we resolved to remain where we were for the night. We engaged the old elk-hunter's son, who, he assured us was as good as himself, as the old man was ill and too weak to come. Gardepaix and his wife entertained us royally with cow buffalo and tea, and did all in their power to make us comfortable. The Lodge was perfectly clean, and it was delightful to see all his seven children kneel down and say their prayers before going to sleep ; as did Gardepaix and his wife also. Gardepaix told me the following remarkuble story. Ho said his wife had been very ill indeed with a Bwelling in her throat, probably a quinsy. She had got weaker and weaker, had not spoken for a long time, and her pulse was hardly perceptible ; and he thought her dying. It was the middle of the night, and he was praying earnestly for her recovery, praying that she might be spared to him and his seven little ones, when he heard (I use his own words), a beautiful canticle being sung close to him in the Lodge, or skin tent. He started and looked round, there was no one ; he went out ; the open prairie was still and quiet ; there was no one. Returning, he looked at his wife ; she lay unconscious ; the song continued, and he said, then he knew his prayers were heard. Presently, as he was on his knees, his wife turned and spoke, the swelling had burst in her throat, and she was saved. " En verite Monsieur, nous avons grande cause de remercier Le Bon Dieu " he concluded. We left these good people in the morning, taking Jean Valie, the elk-hunter, with us. He seems a nice, tidy young fellow. On arriving at camp, we found our men had been alarmed at our absence, and, early in the morning, seeing two stray horses the other side of the lake, one of them white, or cream colour, the colour of the " Jew," whom I was riding ; they naturally thought we had lost the camp in the night, had halted till morning, and that two horses had strayod during the night. So Antoine had started off on horseback to search for us and catch the horses. Wo raised camp and started northward, along the lake shore ; on our way saw buffalo and antelope the other side of the lake, but could do nothing, the lake being a mile across, and about twenty miles ride to get round to the game, which we could not have managed before dark. In the evening Antoine joined us, having caught the two horses, which, oddly enougli, turn out to be two he lost in the spring, two hnudred miles from here. We have our doubts, but let him have the beuciit of them, Camped by a mouud, called by the half-breeds 8 La Batte Marquee, from the figure of a man cut out in the turf at the top. The figure was cut to commemorate the following, — according to Indian notions, — great feat of arms. A party of Assiniboinea were encamped, not far from the Butte Marquee. The Blackfeet, with whom the Assiniboinea were at war, sent a scout out to reconnoitre the Assiniboinc position, who arriving at the Butte after nightfall, and knowing by the signs that the camp could not be far o£f, determined to wait at the top till dawn, hoping that lying at the summit he might then be able nnperceived, to learn the Assiniboinea numbers and positiona ; he feU asleep. Before dawn, an Asainiboine brave, a well known and determined scout, leaving the lodges, commenced to make a wido circuit round the camp, being fearful of a surpriae. In hia reconnaissance he stole with noiseless mocassined tread to the top of the Butte, and found the Blackfoot sit eping. The Assiniboine was unarmed, but seizing a huge stone, he smashed the sleeping Blackfoot's head in. This great coup of killing the joout, who, had he escaped unobserved, would undoubtedly have led a party of his tribe to surprise the Assiniboine camp, was thought so much" of, that in honour of tho Assiniboine the figure of the Blackfoot was cut in the turf ; and the stone he was murdered with placed on the head, where we saw it. This happened about twenty years ago. We hunted all the side of the lake where we saw buffalo the day before, but without success, from the thickness of smoke hanging in the air, the prairie being on fire in many places. Saw several antelope, one of which I fired at and missed. From here we marched over burnt prairie about thirty miles, and there being no wind, paseed right through the fire into the unbumt country beyond ; the flames being only about a foot high, it was easy to pass quickly on horseback. I dismounted and carried "Sam" through in my arms, as I was afraid he would get his feet burnt. Nothing can be more dreary than passing over a burnt prairie, an unbroken black waste, with here and there a buffalo skull or bone ; no animal life, and the fine ashes getting into the mouth and nose create great thirst. To add to this frequently a hot sun, and the air thick with smoke. We passed St. Peter's Springs, where there is an abundant spring of beautiful water. Camped by La Riviere Courte, and next day set out towards the Grand Coteau. I sent Antoine to the left and Jean to the right, to look out for buffalo, we keeping in the centre, a mile or two ahead of the carts. Antoine presently rode in with intelligence of a large solitary bull, so I saddled the "Jew," and taking my 16 central fire gun, in preference to a rifle, as being lighter, and ball cartridge, we started to hunt him. Ally mounted on "Jimmy," and Antoine on one of the recently caught horses that went by the name of " Le Chocolat." We also took Villeiieuve with an empty cart to bring back the meat. We managed to get within about a hundred yards of Lim unperceived, and 1 thought I was going to get him easily, when Antoine, who had got excited, and perhaps wished to see a good gallop, gave a tremendous holloa. Off went the bull best pace, and away I followed on the "Jew," who had been fidgettiug and tossing his head from the first moment he saw the buffalo. The "Jew" laid himself down to gallop in rare form. I gained rapidly, till within forty yards, but then seemed not to gain an inch. He now led the dance over some very bad ground, a marsh that had dried up, and the ground was full of cracks ; the pace was tremendous, but the "Jew" never put a foot wrong. The chase now turned to the left, letting in Antoine whooping and shrieking on "Le Chocolat," still to the left, now letting Ally on "Jimmy," and Villeneuve in the cart, have a beautiful view of the hunt. The bull now seemed to fail a little, and making a spurt I got alongside, and was just pulling, when up went his tail and round came his head to charge. Prenez Garde, shrieked Antoine, but the "Jew" knew all about it, and sheermg off by himself, as I fired, I missed him clean. At him again went the "Jew," and this time getting well abreast, I put a bullet into his heart : he staggered and fell behind me as I pulled the "Jew" up all m a lather, after a grand gallop. I was much pleased with my horse, the ground having been very bad, full of badger holes and deep cracks. Antoine at once commenced to indulge in the half- breeds and Indians' horrible delicacy, hot raw tripe, steeped in warm blood, too beastly, as I told him, and stopped the disgusting repast. On arriving at camp, we found they had sighted a herd of antelope, or cabri, as the half-broeda call them, about a mile off, ao accompanied by Jean Valie, I started off for a stalk, but the prairie was as level as a billiard board, and we found it impossible to approach them, bunday, as usual, we rested, and got some of our men to come when we read prayers. All those came Who understood a little English. Antoine leaves us to-morrow. I have decided not to kill more buffalo. iSnn ^.f*!! /f "i^*, ^^ui'l^..!®^^ ^°°^ Sf^^^V,^ ' ^^^, we do not wish to kill the poor beasts uselessly. _ . , , . . „ ^^^ heard !,„«„.. r„ J J- i.1. -Y. v — ; — — *" -»'>'"»""'«:"" X.TC xiuiiuicii lodges of braves. Our horses stampeded in the night, what they were scared by I cannot say. Our men say a bear or a Sioux. All evil I notice is at once laid to the door of a Sioux. We purpose returning by the north side of the th°Xbr8°ufficfent guidr''^ D'Arignal. None of our men know the country, but the compass wUl, I t»,n^SnTi!' ^n"" »«''— ^'''«ed camp, and bidding Antoine Wallett good-bye, started to strike and cross Xr^loL n?S fl^V we sighted a herd of antelope, and leaving Ally with the horses, Jean and I, ?l,i I .„?f ^^ } f n''''^* stalk, got withm a hundred yards, and got a very fine buck, shooting him through the heart, and kilhng a hind with my left barrel, about two hunlred yards off. Oddly enough, Ll hU I t£aS i« ^ '5' ^T«'^ ^"^' ^^' "^^^^^ °/ *^'^ ^''^' •'"d fell there. Though I felt certain I had hit, I thought sh« had got off, and we never found her tUl we had cut up the buck. We camped by was cat to Bsiniboiaes aes were at r nightfall, till dawn, IS numbers ined scout, rprise. In found the lie sleeping lave led a our of tho ^th placed side of the langing in ■ed at and iud, pas«ed igh, it was , as I was prairie, an fine ashes Dd the air tiful water. it Antoine two ahead bhe "Jew," 'tridge, we liorses that ig back the ght I was 3od gallop, ' who had lid himself in an inch, d was full V turned to 3ttiug Ally seemed to and round out it, and this time the "Jew" kving been the half- told him, f antelope, ted off for ach them, hose came re buffalo. I uselessly, lie Cypress ) we heard ives. Our r a Sioux, side of the ass will, I and cross an and I, m through y enough, t certain I amped by mmm I M ■^J ■fi"^ ''t "3! k ^ /. ; (/-' z o en EJ _) -I 03 Q _l O Ul z h- o z z z f -m the Manvaises Terres of the Sonris, near where the Biviere Longne joins it. A vein of coal, apparently good, Ci-ops up on the surface here. Saw more antelope, but no bucks, so did not shoot any. We marched north- wards along the Souris, and saw two wild horses and many antelope ; in nnsuccessfolly trying to catch the horses, we scared the antelope. In the evening, however, Jean and I, after a long stalk, got up to some more antelope. I bagged one, and wounded another, I could not get it, being nearly dark. The boms are black and rise immediately above the orbit of the eye ; about half way up is a small flat point, from which the animal has received the name Prong Horn. The horns within two or three inches of the tips curve backwards ; it has no dew-claws as the deer or bison tribe. Its height is a little over three feet. The antelope — I speak of the buck — sheds its horns annually by a curious process ; the outer shell dr3ring becomes loose and falls off, leaving the perfect but young horn underneath. This is soft for a day or two, but soon hardens; Lence it has been frequently asserted that the antelope does not shed its horns. Next day, we saw sixteen wild horses, and, although wo hobbled our horses, and brought them up as a decoy, they gel our wind and went off in a string like deer. These horses are probably lost by Indians or half-ureeds on the plains, have got together, and become quite wild. I shot another antelope, after an easy stalK, and we saw the two horses we had seen yesterday, again. We had to keep a long distance between us and the Souris, the ground near the river here being broken by innumerable stony gullies ; and as the only wood is by the river banks, we have to carry that commodity. Water in holes is everywhere plentiful. The following day sighted the Biviere D'Arignal, or Moose River, and sighting a herd of antelope iroving across, galloped to cut them off. By keeping in a gully we managed to get within a little over two hundred yards of the passing herd ; a fine old buck brought up the rear. I jumped off my horse and got a pretty shot, the buck staggered a few yards and fell dead, the bullet had struck him right behind the shoulder. Camped at the Biviere D'Arignal, where we got quantities of excellent wild cherries, and in the morning made a course, by compass, for the boundary trail, where it cuts a umall creek with no name. This trail was made by the surveyors of the boundary line, between British and American soil, in 1870, I think. On our way saw a badger out of his hole, Jean headnd him back, and I riding at him, he stopped, and I shot him ; he has a good skin, but his teeth were iiuarl;? all gone from age. Camped at South Antler Creek, for Sunday, but Sunday evening had an alarm of Sioux. Our horses first took fright, and after quieting tiiem a wolf proceeded to make the night hideous with his singing. Now to imitate the howling of a wolf is the usual Sioux night signal, when they are on mischief bent ; and as our men declared it was not Simon pure who was singing, but a human imitation, we lay by our arms all night, very much on the qui vive ; however nothing happened. With dawn the wolf, for I believe it was only a wolf after all, moved off, and we raised camp, passed a beavor dam cleverly built across the creek — it was quite now. A hot stifling wind was blowing all day, the first disagreeable day we have hn J : the sun was scorching. We made a loncj halt at mid- day, laying panting under the carts for shade In the evening it got cooler, but theu 'ame clouds of winged ants, that got down our necks and un'lor the horses' sndtlles, making them frantic. Cain^ied by North Antler Creek. Arrived at the Souris, which we crossed hy taking the baggage over in a tiny little old dug-out canoe we found there ; the carts, empty, were dragged across, and the horses swam. Here not beiug afraid of disturbing game, I shot some snipe an*^ ducks. I killed hero the green-winged teal (guerquedula carolineitsis) and the gray duck {chaulelanmns strejierua), in addition to the varieties I had got before, and a bird like a watei hen {j'ulica Americana). Wo camped that night between the Souris and Turtle Mountain. We have seen a good many white cranes {gnts Americaua) but have never had a shot at one ; they are a large bird, standing fully four to five feet iu height. A herd of antolopos passed us next day, one buck quite close, about forty yards oft' , to my disgust I missed him, both barrels, .nd looking at my rifle, found that after - 'eaning it I had left the sight up for two hundred yards. We hunted Turtle Mountain on the nortuern side, but saw no tracks of elk {wapiti), few of Virginian, or mule deer, and one of bear. Next day we passed a Sioux lodge, and sat and talked with the men some time. There were two of them, both were Christians. The elder had a Bible printed iu Sioux, and the other one told me that whenever they met other Sioux, the elder man road and told them its teaching. Camped iu the evening near a small trader's hut Ho lives hero with his wife, 100 miles fi-om the nearest white man, trading with the Sioux. His prices were outrageous, and the Sioux gave him the name of a hard man. As they do not stick at trifles where they consider themselves illused, or affronted, I fear the trader will meet with harm. We were sorry for his wife in so dangerous a position. To-day the "Buck" gave in suddenly. Wo found his hoofs were worn down to the sensitive sole, so the poor beast ■ lid go no farther. A Sioux rode in on a very handsome little stallion, so after much bargaining we efl'eoted an excliange, T giving the "Buck," a little money, tobacco, tea, gunpowder, and a few caps, for the little horse. The Sioux said ho would tie the "Buck" up and give him cut grass, so tliat not ha\'iug to move about, the horn would soon grow agaiii. Wo could not got away that evening, the bargaining having wasted much time. The Sioux, whoso name was Awitchahan, said he had a woman ill in his Lodge, so Ally and I walked there iu the evening, accompanied by Johnny to interprei . It was dark when wo got to the Lodge, but inside a fire lit it up well. Here lived Awitchahan with his two wives, and his mother-in-law, the last old lady was the one who was ill from simply notliing but want of proper food. These poor Indians suffer terribly from want of food, depending entirely on what they Kill, to supply all their wants. A few days' i'l success drives t'.iem to tlie greatest straits. Wo left the old woman some pots of Liebig's Extract, '«ud a little brandy that I pretended to medicate, in order to 10 d«ter Awitohahan himself from drinking it. We eat some time in the Lodge, and noticed the blankets had the United States' Government mark, evidently some taken when poor General Caster and his Earty were massacred near Powder Biver. We were pleased to bear, next day, the old lady was better ; at also there was lamentation at the trader's hut, one of their cow3 having been barbarously cut with a knife. Of course the Sioux were at once accused of it, and equally, of course, denied stoutly any knowledge of the cow whatever. Arrived at Blaireau, or Badger Greek, wc carefally hunted the banks, which are well wooded, but saw no tracks. Monday, Sept. 17th. — A most bitter piercing wind blew over the prairie, but hunting in the forest nnder shelter, it was warm enough. This forest extends right away east to the Penbina Mountains, it is composed of thick oak copies, interspersed with elm, ash, poplu, and birch ; the swampy places flovered with the red willow (kinnikinek) whose bark is smoked mixed with tobacco, or alone, by the Indians and half-breeds. The undergrowth is excessively dense, hops and convolvuluses twining in •very direction, only under the oak copses is the ground fairly clear. Our plan of hunting is this, we start an hour before daylight and ride slowly through the forest looking lor tracks. If we find fresh ones we dismount, Ally sometimes remaining with the horses, and at others we leave the horses tied to the trees. We then, taking the utmost care to make no noise, follow the tracks carefully into the thick copses, into which, at sunrise, all the game retires, bringing forcibly to my mind the Psalm " The sun ariseth, and they get them away together, and lay them down in their dens." One morning I quoted it to Jean, "C'elait bien un homme, qui connaUtait la ehasse comme il faut," was his comment. We found tracks of wapiti, deer, and bear, but nothing very fresh. In one place an old she-bear had been feeding her cubs with acorns. She had climbed an oak tree and tearing off the branches, threw them down to her cubs below. I should much have liked to have seen her doing it, and don't think I could have found it in my heart to hurt her. At another place we found where a wapiti stag had been calling to the hinds, the trees and branches all » vod and cut with his horns. Jean called several times, imitating the belling of the stag wapiti by blowij , ' ^he barrel of an unloaded shot gun. But we had no success for several days, tUl, whilst the ca. . ) moving, Villeneuve galloped up, saying they had seen a large animal, either a wapiti or a moo^. jme out of the forest a mile or more from them. We galloped off at once into the wood, down wind of the place they indicated. Having gained the wood, Jean and I dismounted, tied up our horses, and leaving Ally with them, crept off to find our game. A quarter of an hour's silent walk brought us to where the animal had been seen, there was a thickly-wooded gully, and we crept up to the edge ; it was as thick as a bag. Jean whispered, "Stay here, whilst I go down, if anything is there, you may get a shot as it runs up the side of the gully." Just then a stick snapped below us ; I stopped him, then came a cough, "C'est un ours" whispered Jean ; but then followed the — to anyone who has heard it before — unmistakeable grunt of a moose. Crack went the sticks below us, and into a little opening, stalked a young bull moose. I raised my rifle, and was going to fire, when Jean touched my arm, a huge pair of horns were following, the young bull moved out of eight, and into the opening stepped a splendid fellow. He was not more than a hundred yards from where wc stood, and I let him have it behind the shoulder. He staggered, and I fired the second barrel at him, down he came with a tremendous crash, breaking the boughs and young trees with his huge carcase as he fell. Loading quickly, I caught sight of a dark object between two trees. This was the young moose, aiming at him, I fired, and heard him foil heavily to the bottom of the dy. Then we heard others in the gully, and ran to different points to try to see them. Finally they le out of the gully where we could not see them, they were a cow and two calves. We found the big bull stone dead, the bullet holes behind his shoulder not an inch from each other; then we looked for the young moose, and found where he had fallen, but also saw he had got up again, and made off. Ally now galloped up, saying, " three moose, the young bull, and two calves, had passed close to her, the bull being lame from a wound in the shoulder." Jean thought it would be best to wait a little before following him up, as if he was broadside on to me, when I fired, he would not go far ; but if end on, thb bullet probably had only passed through the flesh of the •houlder. Accordingly, I sent Jean to bring two men and a cart, for the old bull. On his return, we took the tracks, Jean followed them two hundred yards on foot, then jumping on his horse, away he went, like a hound on a line, had it not been for a little blood here and there on the leaves, I should have doubted the possibility of his being right. We followed the tracks till dark, and then had to give him up, having alt we could do to extricate ourselves and our horses from the thick forest into which we had plunged. We were glad to arrive pt camp, long after dark, and found a hot supper of moose steaks awaiting us, The American moose {nke Americana) is identical with the European elk. I noticed, however, the colour of the American species to be darker than the European. In the one I shot to-day, the dewlap is considerably longer than in those I shot in Norway. The track of the moose is readily distinguishable, not only from its size, but also from the homy points, behind the hoof, leaving their distinct mark. The track of the bull is known from that of the cow, by the size, and also b' the step in the former bein^ longer than that of the latter ; this is noticeable also in the deer tribe. Tiie moose, unlike the wapiti, is a quiet animal, Htayiug much about the same haunts, unless disturbed ; his keen ■ense of hearing and wonderful nose, make him a difficult animal to stalk. The one I got to-day has nine points on each horn. Next day, after hunting some distance eastward, Jean said he smelt a fire, a oomp fire he said, for he smelt burning wood. We smelt nothing, however, after following Jean's % ed the blankets Caster and his ady was better ; roasly cut with lied stoutly any nted the banks, y in the forest a Mountains, it swampy places ir alone, by the ises twining in ting is this, we ' we find fresh le horses tied to y into the thick e Psalm " The Loming I quoted lent. We found lad been feeding w them down to ould have found ing to the hinds, Eiting the beUing no success for ad seen a large We galloped ood, Jean and I A quarter of an joded gully, and t I go down, if a stick snapped Q followed the — sticks below us, and was going 1 moved out of Ired yards from be second barrel I with his huge 70 trees. This bottom of the n. Finally they ad two calves, inch from each but also saw , the young bull, houlder." Jean ) on to me, when the flesh of the n his return, we I horse, away he 'es, I should have had to give him ito which we had >f moose steahs elk. I noticed, ae I shot to-dav, noose is readily lof, leaving their also bv me step be. Tue moose, irbed ; his keen [ got to-day has \ he smelt a fire, following Jean's MOOSCS HEAD. a m^ximmm- 11 nose more than two miles, we came to a deserted camp, the fire was still burning. 0£F we got to look at the signs — one waggon, one cart, and, by jingo, boot heels ! White people then, what could they be doing out here t Bather disgusted, e&^>ecially as we found by the feet of a freshly-killed doe Virginian deer, that they had been hunting. We made for camp, and on our way saw the cart and waggon in the distance, so I sent Jean to them to invite them to breakfast. On their arrival we found they were Englishman, settlers in Manitoba, and they had come out here fo see the country, I conclude, with a view uf making claims, or perhaps looking for coal. They say they have seen no game, except the one deer, whose feet we found by their fire ; but I don't think they seem to have hunted much. We gave them a good breakfast — moose steak, hot bread, butter, marmalade, and tea, which they seemed to appreciate. Before starting they insisted on leaving us some ducks they had shot. Moved camp near La petite Montague de Foil, close by a hill called La Butte Medicine. In the evening saw two Virginian deer, but would not shoot at them, as they had no horns, being young ones. The next morning, the wind being unfavourable, we did not hunt ; it changed, however, at noon, and we started about three p.m. Hardly had we gone a mile from camp when we saw a black object moving under the Butte Medicine, which, on examination with the glass, turned out to be a bear. Jean was very anxious that I should run him on horseback ; but, as I was uncertain whether my little horse, "The "Icux," would face a bear, I determined to stalk him on foot. Leaving Ally with the horses, we made a good stalk, getting within a hundred yards of Bruin, who was busily occupied eating away at ants' nests ; directly ha finished one nest, shambling off to another. I shot him, and he fell quite dead. He has a beautiful long black coat and a tan muzzle ; he is a full-grown male. After sending to camp for a cart to bring him in, we proceeded to hunt the part of the mountain nearest to the camp. "The Sioux" is a most excellent little horse to ride in cover — as clever as Ally's "Jimmy" — the way the horses get through the woods, fallen and decaying trees lying crossed in every direction like spellicans, is wonderful. In an open glade of the forest we came suddenly on a curious Sioux idol, it was about life-size ; a tree trunk was out off at the requisite height, and the top shaped into a man's head and neck ; the face was carved and painted with vermilUon and blue. A yellow fillet round the head supported three feathers ; an old blanket was draped round the figure, and an embroidered bullet bag, adorned with beads, rings, and tassels, hung over the shoulder ; a tin pot for drinking was tied about the waist, and .>n old plate lay near the foot. A hideous heathen idol. We hunted the Montague de Foil for three days, and although we saw a few wapiti tracks, we did nothing. There was much Indian (Sioux) sign about, so we determined to move down towards the Fembina Biver. George, our cook, has buen ill, but I hope he is now better. In the afternoon we came across fresh elk (wapiti) tracks — thr°e hinds — and followed them some distance into a thick oak copse. Jean thought it would be useless to go on with them, as it was getting dusk, so we determined to leave them till the foUoviug morning. Accordingly, before daylight, the morning being very cold with a sharp frost, we made a wide cast round the oak wood, found the wapiti were still there and then, venturing nearer to leeward, we got their tracks where they had been feeding outside during the night; dismounting we left Ally with the horses, and cautiously took the trail where thoy had re-entered the wood. The ''ind had been light and variable ; now, however, there was a steady but very light air from the eastward. The American elk, or wapiti (ccmis Canivl, nsis) Ih a very shy animal, rarely leaving thick cover, when the sun is up ; shnvt'v iiftoi sunrise, they return to make their lair, in the thickest part of the forest, then, they invarin ddwn-wiud and facing round, lie down with their head to the wind, facing their tracks. This li. !<, liowovcr tlio frequent cliai!"f • the wind had made the wapiti uneasy, and we followed their ti.u j, . .slop by sUji, taking the utin . . re to avoid noise, as the crack of a dry stick under-foot, on so still a mornint.' would iiave bcoii fatal, oach little bush and bough carefully opened with our hands, to avoid our oloUiuti niHtliiig the lenves. We found where the wapiti had lain down twice, and moved again ; the underwood :,'ot thicker ud thicker, so I carefully slipped off my shoes, to be sure of making no noise. After creeping in tiiis manner for an hour, in perfect silence, Jean separating some boughs, stooped low and poiutc>' his face grinning with excitement, and there just visible through the trees was a hind wnpiti's hcao full facing us, but the eyes were shut : she was actually caught napping. Bang went ni iflo and the head disappeared, she was not twenty yards from me, and with a crasli up sprung tlu ihor two from where they were lying ; one went right off — as I could hear, but could not see, the uuiKiwood being thick and the tree truuKB close together — but the other, I suppose, seeing nothing, stood t^till. We could only see her flank, "Tire la," whispered Jean, "(hi vous n# /<« verrez phis." So I let her linve the left barrel j down she came, but getting up made off. Wo ran up and found the leavci nil ittered with blood. So glancing at the first one I had shot, which was stone dead, we went for a'scs, which Ally brought quickly up, having hoard the shots. Mounting, Jean took the tracks, r is well mounted ; from the distance they bound, when alarmed ; it is impossible to track thom, unless there is snow on the ground. We hunted this ground for two days, and saw a good many mule-deer, but I would not kill any more, having plenty of meat, and 'oing no better I-^oAk than I Lad obtained. One stood curiously watching us, not two hundred yards oil : lie made suo^ *> pretty picture, standing amongst some oak trees, whose leaves had turned the most liriUiant colours. At last, jerk went the little tail, and off he went into the forest, followed by some others, wq had not seen. We saw ten mule-deer that day, and the next day saw two. One had a fine head, and, as he had seen us, and was making off, out of shot, we tried to gallop him, the ground being fairly open, but although we gained on him considerably, he got into thick cover and out of sight, before I could get a shot. However, the gallop was enjoyable. Next day, we resolved to try a big ravine on the other side of the river, and, finding a ford crossed, and worked the most beautiful ground carefully up wind. Grossing the ravine, wo had hardly commenced to search an oak copse, when we saw fresh alk tracks. A freshly-nipped twig or two shewed us that little time had elapsed since the stag had been there. Quietly dismounting, and leaving Ally with the horses, we silently followe.l *he tracks, but had hardly gone twenty yards when, with a tremendous crash, we heard the stag go off. ) . : had jumped up not fifteen yards off, but, the underwood was so thick, we saw nothing but a glimpse of something dark. I fired a soap shot without effect, a tree stopping my biill«t. " A' oheval," said J'^n, and running to the horses, proYisions. L ftn Indian se &om the they could, loping that 0 dogs, and ig a word to 1 way to the le travelled uffalo bide, is a saying 80 he was join my lot ivelled on ; 1 him ; the ther ?' said le next day ) heard his and knees, y. " Yes," Vi]''"20uve at i:he top m with his ion, giving ;ance of the yed, having voyagez aveo des, and, in [resh. The itself. This irds across, the banks les, usually rei. These ise ravines, or black- 3rept up to r stag now exceedingly ^ing down, IS macrotis) t; deer. In i9 colour in cover, with itdr is well lom, unless mule-deer, d obtained. e, standing nt the little he had seen open, but jould get a other side ly up wind. •Ik tracks. been there. hardly gone not fifteen I fired a the horses, i - i 'm HMMiilMMtei IMtaMNHdiaRB' 'Hi BLACK BEAR OR MUSQUAW. 18 we jnmped on, and, following Jean, raced round the cover. Never have I gone so fast over saeh ground. An open glade of some size lay on the other side, and there was the raagnihccnt beast, going across it, about 200 yards off. Pulling short up, I jnmped off and fired. Thr.d went the bullet into the elk, but on he went. Up we got again, and galloped another hundred yard's- we had the inside of the line the elk was taking— jumped off again, and, taking aim, my rifle-si-ht making horrible circles round the beast, I pulled again. Hurrah I that's stopped him 1 His shoulder's broken. Off raced Jean and I on foot, loading as I ran, and, coming over the little ridge of bri7.shwood, just where the thick forest com- menced again, lost sight of him. 3enn looked hurriedly round to pick up his trail, while I ran on a few yards. "Who-whoop," there he lay, tne s lendid fellow, in his last struggle. Jean threw what he called his hat in the air, and whooped, and shouted, and rushinf; up to me, patted me on the back, in his delight. He was a stag royal, twelve points, and quite perfect. Oae bullet hit him in the body, a little too far back, the other broke his shoulder and forearm. He meas u*3d about fifteen two at the shoulder, taller than the horses we were riding that day, and had most magnifice.nt antlers. Then looking at him, came t he qualm that always troubles one ; regret that the noble beast, ten minutes ago, so full of life, power, and grace, lies there a motionless carcase; and yet feeling elated, a'^ having got the animal, one has worked hard for. Alter skinning him, and cutting him u^, and burning some powder round, started back, and arrived late at camp, great was the delight of our men, on hearing we had killed a stag wapiti, completing the list of all animals inhabiting these latitudes. Next morning Jean went off — with Johnny and a cart — to bring ihe stag home, and we hunted in the evening without success. Jean got a nasty fall, his horse, " The Plug," putting both hit, fore feet in a badger hole whilst galloping ; fortunately he was not hurt. The weather has turned vo'y cold, and the whole landscape is assuming its winter appearance : the leaves have fallen, and it snowed hard as we returned to camp — in the teeth of a strong N.W. wind — and found a comfortable big fire in a well- sheltered position. Next day we started back to Fort GaiTy, hunting some ravines on our way without success. On the Pembina Biver we noticed the summer duck {uije spom.a), and on the adjoining prairies sho.< the ruffled grouse (bonasa umbellus). Whilst camped at noon, met two engineers, who had been on a survey by Dry-dance Hill : they were on their way to Fort Garry. Jean now asked leave to return to see his father, who was ill when we left. He promised to rejoin me on my arrival at Fort Garry. It was pleasant to see how, out of the little presents I gave, he put aside what be considered the best for his old father. George is still, I am sorry to say, suffering. Camped by a squatter's house, a Mr. Bonny, who was most kind, giving me as much oats as I liked for the horses. Left him some venison. Fbiday, Oct. 5th, arrived at Tobacco Creek, where we camped. The country quite beautiful on to-day's march — part of it more like an English park, with its oak covers and wide stretches of grass, than anything we have seen. Many settlers' houses are dotted about. Next day, Oct. 8th, started to Scratching Biver. I was ahead with Ally, amusing myself with shooting grouse and duck, when Villeneuve rode up to say, George was so ill, he could go no further. We went back at once to the carts, and found the poor fellow, laying beside the trail, in great pain. Ally and I rode back to Tobacco Creek and hired a man with a horse and buggy — or four-wheel dog cart — to take him on to Scratching Biver, where I could get a doctor ; but on getting him in he said he could not endure the jolting, and begged to be taken back to the house at Tobacco Greek. So I paid the man to take care of George till he was fit to travel, and then to drive him in a buggy to Scratching Creek^ where I promised to make arrangements to forward him to his home in Winnipeg. So, reluctantly, we bid him good bye. Poor fellow, he was very low, but thanked us warmly for making arrangements for him. I think we arranged for the best, as he could not travel, and would be far better in a house than enduring what would be to a sick man — the miseries of a camp. Still we feel leaving him. Killed a good many ducks and some pinnated grouse on the way to Scratching Kiver, which we reached after dark. There was no wood, so telling Villeneuve and Johnny to water our tired horses, Ally and I walked up to a house to ask for a little fire wood, and were refused. Alas for the difference between the open-handed hospitality of the Indian or half-breed — on the plains — and the white man in the settlement. /* -3 our men truly said, "A heathen Indian would have been ashamed to have done such a thing." However, we tried another house — Ii'ish people this time — they asked us in, and then shewing us their wood pile bid us take what we wanted and welcome. I made arrangements the following morning with the keeper of a small inn, to forward George on. On hi^ arrival here, October 7tli — hearing the steamer South leaves Fort Garry on Wednesday, we pushed on at noon, camping by a half-breed's house. He sold us a bag of oats, the grass about here being scanty for the horses. The "Jew" would hardly eat them. The half-breed very kindly brought us a lot of firewood without being even asked. Our stores have lasted v well, sugar being the only thing we have run out of, and that only the last week. We have quantities of pemmican left : having killed so much game we had no occasion to use it. It is a most capital thing to take travelling, as it does not spoil, and is very much nicer than preserved meat. It is made by the Indians and half-breeds of buffalo meat ; but I hear moose pemmican is still better. OoTOUER 8tb. — Started early. Our men dressed the carts out with all the skius and heads and horns ; they were literally covered with trophies ; and with our little English flag flying, our train makes quite an appearance. Crossing Stinking Biver, by a bridge, and the Assiniboinc on a pontoon, we entered 14 Fort Garry, at 4 p.m., our carts, with their adommentB, making a great sensation. We were cordially welcomed by Mr. McTavisb, the officer in charge of Fort Garry, and were talking to him, when an excited little iudiTidnal, in a silk hat, rushed np to me, saying, "Where have you been ? Where have you been ?" " Out West," I answered, and went on talking to Mr. McTavish. Still the little party continued, so I said again, " Just out West," and left him. I then asked who he was, and McTavish laughed and told me he was Cook, the excursion man's son, who had come up on a tour (I presume, self-conducted) to Winnipeg. We sent Mr. Grahame and McTavish each a haunch of elk, which were much appreciated. Jean now re-joined us. Poor lad ! he had found his father dead on his return. He evidently felt it much. I kept him on, to assist me in cleaning guns, rifles, etc., and packing. He is a very nice young fellow, besides being a brilliant tracker. The Hudson's Bay officers were kindness itself, undertaking the packing and forwarding of all our skins, heads, etc., and putting our horses np for the night in the Hudson's Bay stables. They all say they have never known any one to get such a bag, even in double the time. We put up at the hotel, but cannot sleep comfortably, the air in the house seemed so confined and close. Next day saw Mr. Grahame, who, as before, was most kind and thoughtful. Engaged all day packing for our return journey, and spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Grahame. Mackay bought two of my horses, and I let Jean Valie have the other — the little Sioux, whom he had taken a great fancy to — cheap. McKay was much pleased at my success, and, by my telling him I was well satisfied with the horses, etc., he uad provided me with. Wednesday, October 10th. — We called on the Governor — Morris — finding Mrs. Morris at home, and embarked on board the "International" steamer, at 6 p.m. Mr. Grahame, Mr. McTavish, and Mr. Bmith, kindly coming down to see us off, and wish us a safe journey home. Mr. Grahame telegraphed to the H.B. officer at Montreal, to secure us a cabin on board the Allan Line steamer sailing from Quebec on the 20th. The captain of the " International" did his utmost to make us comfortable. Landed at Fisher's Landing, Oct. 18th, at 8.80 p.m.; and, taking the train, arrived at Brainerd at 6 a.m., on the 14tli. Here we had to stop, there being no train tillnext day, so went to the Episcopalian Church for service, identical with our own. Left Brainerd on the 16th, at 6 a.m., and arrived at St. Paul, 6.20, the same day. Leaving there at 7.80, we arrived at Chicago, at 5 p.m., on the 16th. After a walk through the town, and dinner at the Palmer Hotel — the most magnificent hotel I have ever seen, we started again at 9 p.m., and arrived at Montreal, Oct. 18th, at 8 a.m. Besting here till next evening, we took boat at 6 p.m., on the 19th. We arrived at Quebec, at 6 a.m., the 20th, and embarked on board the "Moravian," Capt. Grahame, bound for Liverpool, where we arrived Oct. 29th, at 6 p.m., having had a heavy gale at our heels nearly the whole way across ; making the following runs: — Noon, 21st.— 828 Miles „ 22nd— 297 „ „ 28rd.— 298 ,. „ 24th.— 228 „ „ 25th.— 820 „ „ 26th.— 261 „ „ 27th.— 810 „ „ 28th.— 812 „ „ 29th.— 227, arriving at 6 p.m. Thus arriving in England, from Fort Garry, in exactly nineteen days. Xieaving Liverpool next morning, we got safely home at half-past Ten a.m. NOTE. * The Gopher is the Leopard Marmot, or Hood's Manuot. i LIST OF GAME BAGGED, 1877. Buffalo (Bison) ... 4 Bos Americanui American Elk (Wapiti) 2 Cervus Canadensis Moose (Identical with European Elk) ... 1 Alee AmerieaTM Antelope (Prong-horn) • >• 6 Antilocapra Americana Virginian Deer ... • •• 2 Cariacus Virginianus Mu e Deer • •• 2 Cariacus Macrotis Bear (Musquaw) «•• 1 Ursus Americanus Dnoks ■ • • 76 Grouse. ... 9 Badger ■ •• 1 Skunk ■ •• 1 Pigeons 10 Snipe Yellov-legged BtUts • la 2 7 '') JOURNAL, 1878. June Ist. — Left Liverpool, in Canard steamer, "Bothnia," and met on board Count and Countess Von Bosen. He was in the Swedish Navy, and has now an appointment at the Swedish Court ; and knew many of my old friends who had been in our service, learning their duties. He was excessively pleasant, and full of anecdote. Amongst others, he told us the following authentic ghost story. At the Palace, at Stockholm, one night, whilst sitting up late with the King Oscar, they beard overhead, in a room which had been occupied by the late King, and was then kept closed, all the furniture, &e., in it being left exactly as he used it, a footstep, pacing backwards and forwards. The step was perfectly distinct, and the King at once enquired how it was the room was open ; and directed Count Von Bosen at once to go up, and enquire who was using the room. Count Von Bosen found the door locked, and no noise that he could bear, on coming to the door. He returned to the King, and the step immediately recommenced, backwards and forwards, exactly as the late ^ng had been in the habit of pacing his room. King Oscar started up, and desired that the key of the room might be brought to him ; and, accompanied by the Count, ascended. The door was unlocked, and, although they searched the room, no one was there. Much puzzled, they descended again, and the pacing footstep recommenced. Unable to explain it, the King happened to ring for his valet, when the man appeared with a swollen face from a bad toothache, for which he apologised, saying he had been walking up and down his room, imable to sleep. His room was next to the late King's room, and, whenever he heard anyone moving on the stairs, he had stopped, to listen if he was rung for. A little laudanum laid the ghost I JcMB 2nd. — We landed at Queenstowu, and had the pleasure of meeting Lieutenant Neilson (an old shipmate), on board the " Bevenge." We had an average passage across, and landed, on the 11th, at New York. The town was a disappointment, but the entrance is pretty, and the harbour good. The streets are broad, but badly paved : the Central Park well-laid-out and well-kept, but the trees are quite young. It is curious the craving which most Americans seem possessed with, that a stranger should admire their towns, and, in fact, everything, and consider it finer than any othei* part of the world. Even out West, when passing half-a-dozen fields, that suddenly appeared, after passiag through miles of un- cleared land, I have been asked, by a Western man, whether it was not s, sight of ciUtivation to surprise me, and that he " kalkilated" I would have to go a long way, in the old country, without seeing a sight like that ! Fortunately, with perfect truth, I was able to answer the question in the affirmative, and my Mend left me, quite happy. I have also found fiinny ideas about our English pronunciation, and have been told, as a compliment, that I spoke very pure English, with no British accent, as I pronounced all my "h's." We met, in a train, on our way to Chicago, a young Englishman, who had come out, as a young married man, with his wife, two years ago. He knew no one. but had managed to obtain a situa- tion, as clerk, in a large house. He said that he had not been there a fortnight, before he told his wife that, if he lived, and kept his health, he would be the senior clerk in the estabUshment, before two years were out. He said there was an absence of plodding amongst the clerks— anyhow, he kept his word, and he told me he was now doing very well indeed. 16 From New York, we went np ihe Hudson River to Albany, by steamer. The scenery lovely — much reminding us of a Norwegian ford. Thence by Buffalo, Chicago, and St. Paul, to Fisher's Landing, where we had the old pretty sail down the Red Lake River. We were as much struck as ever by the beauty of the foliage, at night lit up by the two large bow lights, the river being hardly fifteen yards wider than the boat, and thickly timbered to the water. Mr. Grahame, the Chief Commissioner, we found absent, on a tour to some of the north-west forts ; but Mr. McTavish was most kind and civil, and found for us a Mr. Thomas McKay, living at Prince Albert, who happened to be down with a freight of train carta. This McKay has undertaken to get our train together, and accompany us, as guide, as far as Edmonton. I got four saddle horses — two from Montana, one called "Prince," and the other "Charlie," the former very good looking, a chestnut, with white star and white legs. I also got my old buffalo runner, "The Jew," James McKay kindly letting me hu^e him back for the price I sold him for; also a gray named "Moonshine," a horse I literally bought in the dark, getting him from a half-breed, after sunset, who entreated me to buy him. as his daughter was dead, and he had no money for the funeral, which was to take place next day. I heard, next day, from the Hudson Bay Go. the story was perfectly true. On Satcbdat, June 29th, we started from Winnipeg, after a tremendous thunderstorm, which made the rich Manitoba soil extremely unpleasant to ride through. We were accompanied by a Mr. Hope, who, with two other Englishmen — Messrs. Elliot and Macdowell — is bound west, on a trip to the Riding Moimtains, about a hundred miles from here. Our train had started ahead of us in charge of McKay, but the trail being very bad, we rode across the open prairie to Silver Heights, where Mr. Smith, late Chief Commissioner, of H.B. Co., had kindly invited us to an early dinner, at his pretty little house ; on our way, calling at James McKay's, to wish him " good-bye." He was unable to assist us as he did last year, being only just recovering from a severe attack of rheumatic fever. Our party were to camp at St. Xavier's Church, about fifteen miles out, and so I cantered off, hoping to get up to it in about an hour and a half ; but, as we nearedthe Church, it was evident that a repetition of the morning's thunderstorm was imminent, and, not seeing our camp in any direction, we bolted into a house close to the Church, just as the first large drops were falling, and put our horses in the stable, our demand for shelter being at once kindly acceded to. The house belonged to an Order of Sisters of Charity, called "Les Soeurs Grises." They were most kind, and not only gave us shelter, but a most capital tea. Meanwhile a most heavy thunderstorm was raging, and, in the middle of it, a girl came rrmning in, saying she had been sent to summon the priest, who lived close by ; a lodge, or buffalo skin tent, had been struck by the Ughtning, and, of its occupants, a woman was killed on the spot, and a man much hurt. These heavy thunderstorms are very frequent during the summer, in the Province of Manitoba, and do much damage. I have never seen them as severe on the high prairie lands to the west of it. After the storm was over, I sent a man out for tidings of our people, but with no success ; but, bye-and- bye, McKay appeared, absolutely soaking, and in much anxiety lest Alice had got wet in the downpour. He said the horses were "played out" in the heavy ground and mud, and had stopped about five miles off. I told him to move up in the morning, and decided, with much pleasure, to accept the Sceurs Grises' kind invitation to stop with them for the night ; and they made us most comfortable. This Order of Sisters of Charity has missions far out in the North-west, one of them on the Mackenzie River. I have heard from the half-breeds that they do much good, both amongst them and also amongst the Indians. They complained, and, I think, with justice, of the Missionaries, both of our Church as well as the Methodists, coming to places where the Sisters have been working, and telling the Indians that what they have been taught is all wrong ; that they must worship according to the Protestant doctrines, or their Christianity will not avail them. So the Red Men, seeing that their white brothers are at variance, not knowing whom to believe, end, naturally, in believing nothing. Surely, to have converted the Pagan Indians to Christianity, ought to be enough to make our Missionaries give those who have borne the burden and heat of the day their honest and hearty support, remembering the words, "Forbid him not : for he that is not against us, is for us." June SOth. — After breakfast in the Sisters' little Refectory, wc went, the Mass being over, to hear the sermon at St. Xavier's, and a very good one it was, given in French to a large congregation of half- breeds. The priest said : " You all wish to go to heaven, and there you do well. But, it is not enough. " You wish to go a journey to such a place, and you think it over ; but you don't stop there. You put " yourself on the way. Eh ! Bitn, it is the same thing with heaven. You not only must wish to go " there, but you must put yourself and keep on the road ; and by God's mercy, you will arrive." A most apt illustration to a nation of voyageurs, as the half-breeds are. We joined our camp, after reading our service, up came Hope, Elliot, and Macdowell, with their cart, and camped near us, which was pleasant. We heard, afterwards, of Messrs. Hope, Elliott, and Macdowell. Their trip proved unfortunate. Hope was thrown from his horse, I believe, the day after we left St. Xavier's, and broke his arm. The party returned, and Elliot then fell at Montreal, and broke his arm. Macdowell, fortunately, did not fall (so far as we heard) anywhere, and so escaped to England with whole bones. Monday, Jclv 1st. — Started at daylight, and, travelling fast, left the other party, and halted, near the Assiniboine, for our mid-day rest. Our party consists of Alice and I ; Thomas McKay, our guide ; John Macbeth, a young Scotchman ; Tom Spence, an Indian ; and Le Yieux Chariot, a French half-breed, the cook — but who, I am afraid, will not suit us — four saddle horses, for Alice and myself; and ten part pp ' I "^^■^mnpiP" 17 horses, inolnding a foal, of vhioh wonderful animal more anon ; one light covered waggon, two Bed Biver carts, and McKay's backboard, a light kind of four-wheeled gig. We camped, for the night, near Eb'gh Bluffs, about seven miles from Portage la Prairie. JiTLY 2md. — A oool morning, after a slight thunderstorm in the night. MoEay drove round by the Portage, to see if any letters had arrived for us by the last English mail. He joined us at noon. We had endeavoured to go straight across the prairie to Westboume, but settlers had taken up the ground, and fenced it in to such an extent, that we were perpetually going round "snake" fences, which much retarded us. We passed through the little settlement of Westboume, looking cool and pretty, in the evening, with its trees growing dose down to the edge of the river, and camped at Salt Springs for the night. Yve kept a sharp look-out on our horses, McKay saying, what is quite my opinion, that we nearer one is to civilization, the more likely one is to have one's norses stolen. Nevertheless, in the morning, one horse was gone. Sent the Indian back to track it up, and passed through a wooded tract of country, with occasionally small farms and land newly taken up. Just before we were halting, at noon, we heard a horse neigh, and, riding up, found the missing animal still hobbled, but the hobbles were tied in a different knot to that which they had been fastened the night before. Somebody, I presume, had only "borrowed" the animal. A large fly, called the "bull-dog," was most virulent on our poor horses, nearly sending them frantic, and covering them with streaks of blood. The foal alone was partially protected by its thick woolly coat. This little beast, then three days old, started from Fort Carlton, May 8th ; arrived at Fort Garry, June 28rd, 665 miles. Thence, it has now started with us to go to Fort Ellis (if ever it arrives), another 210 miles. At starting, it had a bad bite in the flank from a dog. This is now healed up, leaving only a large scar. Our horses could neither feed nor rest, except in the smoke of fires made for them ; and the mosquitoes conmienced before the bulldogs had retired for tibe night. This is not fair-play, for bulldogs' time ought to be from 10 a.m. to an hour before sunset ; mosquitoes, from sunset to 1 a.m. However, to-day, they cheated us entirely out of the peaceful interregnum. Camped on Biding Mountain. Our day's journey, about 40 miles. July 4th. — A pleasant day; few bulldogs— tired out, I fancy, by their exertions yesterday. Halted at noon, by the little Saskatchewan Biv ^r — i.e., " little rapid current river." After halting, Alice and I drove in the waggon till about 4.80 p.m., but ^ound it more fatiguing than riding. We camped at the junction of the Pine Oreek trail. Here, Le Vieux Ouarlot said that our travelling was too hard and too fast for human endurance ; and that, if he continued at that rate, it would kill him. I let him return to Fort Garry, with a train of carts that we met, and was truly thankful. I have met many clever men, but I think be is the cleverest. Engaged as a cook, he has done nothing since we started, having succeeded in getting somebody elsp to do everything for him ; and, yesterday, having McKay busy getting wood for the fire, Spence getting water, and Macbeth getting the kettles, ho suoooedod in getting Alice and myself to take the provisions out of the box. John Macbeth volunteers to cook for us, and, somehow, I feel, we do not miss Le Yieux Chariot. I may also mention, he had no idea of lighting a fire without paper. July 6th. — We passed the Mounted Police Station, at Shoal Lake, about noon. Hero, all trains are searched for Uquor, which is not allowed in the North-west Territory. We have observed two kinds of marmot this year — the leopard or Hood's marmot, and another, a little longer, of a yellowish colour, whose tail is shorter, with a tuft at the end, which he jerks continually about. They are very tame. One we caught, which I intended to kill and skin, was bo very confidential and at his ease, that I had to let him go again. £ ., aid not run away when liberated, but just dodged about the camp, gratifying hia curiosity as to what we ate, what our dishes wore made of, and wliat tea loaves tasted like. I shot a teal and a prairie grouse. We camped at Bii'd Tail Creek. After camping, had a thunderstorm. July 6th. — We arrived at Fort ElUs about 11, and met a quantity of Sauteux Indians, headed by their Chief, in a scarlet and gold-braided, coat, a pair of mocassins and leggings, and a wide-awake. They were going to the Fort to receive their annuity from Government. He — the Chief — rejoices in the charming sobriquet of " The Murderer," from soma little episode in his history. Mr. McDonald, the officer in charge, was away. We crossed the Qu' Appelle Biver, and camped on a beautiful level bit of prairie, called Beautiful Plain, bv the second of three wooded springs, that rising on the edge of the plain, run into the Qu' Appelle valley. BvNOAY, 7th or July. — We rested. McKay and Macbeth joined us at service, and Spence went back to Fort Ellis, to spend the day with his family ; where also wo left the foal, none the worse for its journey. Another thunderstorm in the afternoon. Monday, tbb 8tb or July. — Passed many trains of carts, with horses and oxen, taking stores up to the North-west Forts ; and, whilst crossing Wolverine Creek, saw a mulo-dcer in the distance ; but it had got into thick cover, before I could get near it. The country through which we were parsing is exceedingly pretty — undulating, park-like ground, with numerous large and small covers, composed of birch and white poplar, with many lakes and ponds. It ought to be good hunting ground, yet, although I rode off the trail for some distance, to look for tracks of large game, I found none ; and only started a red fox. I suppose the trail is too much used, for game to uarbour in its vicinity. Passed another train at Cut Arm Creek, and camped east of Pheasant Crook. July 9th. — The country more open, but timber could be seen at long distances. Nothing like the extensive prairies of the great plam of the Souris, through which we passed last year. From a train going westward, I got aohostnut horse (in a trade), for "Charlie," who I find not up to the journey. I named the horse " Pheasant." 18 We trarelled over the File Hills, brooded nndulating ground with lightish soil, and reached the Touch- wood HiU Post on July 11th. We camped on the Touchwood HiUs, at a camp we named "Broken Best." The trail, during the past two days, very bad and hilly. At 11.80 p.m., when all were asleep, A most severe thunderstorm set in, preceded by so furious a gust of wind, that it smashed our tent pole, bringing the whole of the canvas about our ears. Torrents of rain immediately followed. Alice and I, were fast asleep, when we were awakened by the uproar of flapping canvas. I jumped up, to secure the tent door, but too late. Crack went the rear pole i and down it all came. By the light of the vivid flashes of lightning, we managed to get two or three blankets under a wateri)roof, and crouched on them, holding on to the tent at the same time, to prevent the whole thing being blown bodiij away. The canvas rested on our heads, and kept the floods of rain from lodging immediately ou us. As ve endeavoured to collect our valuables, and push them underneath the blanket, where I had, fortunately, ocured my rifle and watch, the comical view of the situation struck us, and we laughed until we cried agair- In about half-an-hour, the wind abated, and, getting the broken pole and ridge pole, I raised the canvas above us on a tripod. This improved our position, as the wet canvas no longer rested on our heads. Then the rain ceased, and I hailed our men. McEay and Macbeth had their tent blown down, but, it being only three feet high, one had managed to get it up again, whilst the other held the foot to the ground. Spence alone oame off scot-free, he having, as usual, made an habitation for himself, by tying my spare tent up to the cart wheels, and laying himself on all the loose canvas ; so, unless the wind carried both him and the cart away, his house was a fixture. The ground around was a pool of water, except the island made by our waterproofs, about four foot square. On this, however, we managed to sleep venr soundly till morning, which was, fortunately, sunny and fine. We enjoyed a good laugh over everybody's account of their night's experiences. Passed a Sauteux Lodge, and the chief, called the " poor or lean man," oame to speak to us ; and, in the afternoon, met Mr. McDonald from Fort Ellis. He kindly let me have a good horse from bis train. We named him "Qu' Appelle." We camped on the edge of the Great Salt Plain ; after a charming ride through the most lovely country, undulating, and prettily timbered, with peeps of clear lakes, studded with thickly wooded islands, and, now and then, long green glades, stretching far back from the trail. July 18tb. — All day travelling, over the Great Salt Plain, on which are numerous lakes, all totally unfit for drinking, so strongly are they impregnated with alkali. The grass on this plain is thin and scanty ; and we noticed the absence of the numberless flowers, which usually make the prairie so lovely, An efflorescence of alkali is visible wherever the ground is bare of grass. Making a forced march of 86 miles, we halted where McEay expected to get fresh water for our thirsty horses and ourselves. But, alas I it was nearly dried up, and the little left so full of alkali as to be almost undrinkable. Besting an hour, we pushed on, and tried another lake, about ten miles further on. The water nearly as bad as before. Now, however, we were thirsty enough to dr'.uk it, mixed with lemon sugar, and brandy. This water was thick, of a green colour, not unlike green pea soup. A little before sunset, however, we were thankful to find good water in a swamp— really good water, with a few insects in it, and no tasva of anything, but the weeds. No gnaa or weeds will grow in the real alkali lakes, though a little does in the brackish ones. The alkali water drunk by the horses, has had a strong purgative effect on them. Sunday, July 141^. — McKay went on early to Carlton. He wishes to go to Prince Albert, and rejoin OB at the Fort, with fresh horses. In the evening, some traders, who have a store near Duck Lake, camped near us, only eight days from Fort Garry ; but they have only a light waggon, and their horses and mules look much dejected. July 16th. — We passed the line of telegraph to Battleford, the present seat of Government in the North-west Territory. Escaped a heavy thunderstorm, or, rather, only getting the tail of it, which thoroughly drenched us. The water along the trail was scarce and bad. Whenever there is drinking water near the brail one sees a piece of wood stuck upright, with directions written by some kind person such as, " L'eau, nord, 2 miles." Travelling as fast as we do, we have experienced no real privation of water, but trains with bullocks, must suffer severely. Across the Alkali, or Great Salt Plains, it is usual for trains of carts with bullocks to travel at night, the animals not feeling the want of water so acutely as when travelling in the heat of the sun. We passed, the following day, a large salt lake, the water of so reddish a tinge, that, in the sunlight, it had the ouriona effect of a pink lake ; near it is the spring of the great Medicine Elk Here, numeroni rags of cloth, ends of tobacco, broken pipes and other ludian valuables, are scattered about, having been thrown away, or offered to propitiate tue huge wapiti, with bracon horns, that is said to rise out of the water. In the evening, we arrived at the South branch of the Saskatchewan, and found a surveving Sarty camped across ; and, to our surprise, a Mr. Stewart, whom we had met last year, in the Pembina fountains, came across to see us. From a French half-breed on a small farm, we got fresh buffalo meat, fresh eggs I I I I and some potatoes. So we feasted. He has also a ferry hor**, known by his name, "Gabriel's Crossing." On the other side, next day, I got a good looking entire horse, from a buffalo hunter, in whose lodge we had awaited, whilst the horses and carts were crossing, in exchange for "Moonshine," and a hundred dollars. He has very easy action, and Alice likes him better than the gray. We are always muqh struck with the good manners and courtesy of the Indians and half-breeds, contrasting so strongly with the Colonial and American abominable want of it. We passed a Sioux oamp, and went up to the lodges, whoro, after giving the oaual present of tobaooo, we had an animated 1 i I i I ] i t I I ( I t 6 II r I r V n ii V t( g P a fi a ti 01 n ti h a: 8( fc ii g< O] in y< 8C Ol Cl to St U n< t; fri gi Wi fo 1« eonversation in signs, exprdssive of mataal good-vill between the English and Sioaz, and equal hatred of the Eitchimakoman, or Long Knives. My binocular glasses created qtiite a little sensation. These Indians are much finer looking than the Sauteux, but were not so well-equipped with American arms and blankets, as the men of Sitting Bull's band, that we met last year. Camped by Duck Lake, where I tried to get some duck, but failed, the reeds being so thick, I could recover none, that I had shot. I fear these Sioux will be a great trouble in the North- west. After the massacre of whites in Dacotah, (a massacre brought on entirely^ in my opinion, by the inhuman conduct of the Americans, it being not a solitary instance where Indians were poisoned in drink offered to them — to kill a buck Indian, or a wolf, by any means, considered equally meritorious), this remnant fled to British territory, and were protected. The British North American redman, the Ally (by solemn treaty), not the subject of Her Majesty the Queen, is promised, by treaties made in Her Majesty's name, in exchange for opening his country for coloniza- tion, that he will be fed in times of distress and want, and that he will have yearly a certain sum per head, called treaty money. Well, the Sioux now comes into British territory ; warlike and good hunters, they clear up the game that barely sufficed for the Crees and Sauteux, the lords of the soil, and want, distress, and famine follow. The Government of Canada are seemingly averse to expense, fi.e., keeping treaty obligations solemnly made in Her Majesty's Name.) The Indians yet believe " no Englishman tells an untruth," and Queen Victoria's name is a seal of security to them. It is monstrous to undeceive them. July 18tb. — I woke, feeling very unwell, from the effects of drinking the alkali water, so did not start till late, and then rain commenced. We were thankful to arrive at Fort Carlton, where we were most kindly and hospitably received by Mrs. Clarke. Mr. Clarke — the officer in charge — being away, but returned in the afternoon, having piloted the Hudson Bay Steamer up the south branch of the Saskatchewan, to a point opposite Prince Albert, for the first time, the water being so low in the north branch that it was impossible to navigate it. We found McKay waiting for us, with fresh horses. It rained all day and all night, and we were thankful to have a good roof over us. Yet, although the room was large and airy, and the bed deliciously comfortable, such was the perversity of human nature, we could neither of ns sleep. After sleeping in a tent, any room feels close. Mr. Clarke kindly gave us much information about the country near the great Slave and Athabasia LakcH, which we much hope to visit another year. He also lent us an excellent riding horse, and gave me a deer hound, called "Turk," to try at antelope. McKay has engaged a cousin of John Macbeth's named Alexander. Mr. Clarke also gave me much information about the Blackfeet Indians, with whom he had traded a great deal. This powerful and warlike tribe are worshippers of the sun and of fire. A young girl of the tribe is put apart as priestess, and, when she arrives at a certain age, is made acquainted with the mysteries of the fire worship ; and has to make a declaration of her having kept the obligations laid on her when set aside for a priestess. This declaration is made, with solemn rites, before the assembled chiefs of the tribe. Should it be falsely made, it is beUeved destruction of the entire tribe will follow. On one occasion after this solemn ceremony, a young man, who alone knew the girl's declaration liad been false, rushed into the Lodge, and declared her guilt, he being horror-struck at the idea of the destruction of the tribe. Both were immediately sacrificed, the girl's father being the first to use the fatal knife. Even here one finds the old worship of Baal. On the evening of the 19th, we left our kind hosts at Carlton ; and, on July 20th, whilst following the North Saskatchewan, saw a band of buffalo, on the opposite side. I determined to cross, and try for them, and, as my horse would have been unable to run, had I swum him, I settled to try on foot. All hands set to work to make a raft. There being no big trees, our raft had to be small, and, when completed, we found that, when burthened with four people, — Alice and I, McKay and Spence, — the water line was two inches above the highest log. However, we started, paddling and poling. As the wood got wet, so it got heavier, and so the passengers had to be reduced, SicKay jumping out first. Finally, Alice alone sat on the raft, whilst we three kicked and plunged in the water, in the fruitless endeavour to make her head in any direction but that in which the current carried her. When we thought we were making a little progress, a contrary eddy would sweep us back in mid-stream. A voice now hailed us from the bank, "If you will hold hard a little, I will make you a canoe ! " I thanked the owner of the voice very kindly, but, seeing at the moment we could get neither one -side nor the other, I could not avail myself of the offer. McKay now began to look done, changing colour, and swallowing water, so I made him climb on the raft again, fortunately, the current now swept us on to a little island, where, after a rest, we towed the raft round, and, after much labour, were successful in reaching the bank from which we had started, at a point two miles higher up. The voice now appeared, and turned out to be a relation of McKay coming back from the plains, and he was busy making a buffalo hide canoe. The buffalo were now out of sight, but I determined to follow them on foot, when the boat was completed. It (the oar.oe) deserves description. Two green hides were sewn lengthwise together, and stretched over a iramework. The stem and the stern posts were made of strong willows bent to shape, and secured by thongs to the square framework. The edges were drawn tight up, and laced with thongs, and the seams were then well greased. The boat thus made, with three people inside, drew no more than four inches of water, and was easily paddled across by Spence and myself ; Alice accompanying us. After walking about four miles, we saw the band of buffalo, by the aid of my glasses, about six uiiles off; and although, I did not care for stalking a buffalo, it being poor sport after riding them, I determined to try for a shot, and so we ao walked on as fast as possible. I saw seyen antelope on the way, and we got np to the ridge, where we had seen the bnffalo jnst after sunset. Crawling cautiously up the ridge, I saw two bulls about 400 yards off. There was no getting nearer, so had to wait, though much fearing the quickly-increasing darkness would prevent my obtaining a shot. Presently, to our right, and still further off came stalking slowly nine others — 4 bulls, 4 cows, and a calf. There was nothing to do but to lay still and watch them. The leading bull, as his outline sho\(ed clear against the red evening sky, we could see was tailless, *< pulled off," so said Speuce, by the wolves, in his calfhood. Presently, they moved off in Indian file, over the ridge, and jumping np, I ran quickly forward for a shot. Gcttitig to the crest, I levelled my hfle, but their stems were towards me, and it was too dark to see the foresight. I missed the right barrel, but heard the left bullet strike, breaking the hind leg of one of the bulls, for which I was very vorry, as, although he dropped far behind the herd, he went fast enough to entirely preclude any chance of gbtting him in the dark, and I hate wounding a beast for nothing. After a glance at my compass, to ensure steering straight back, we started off, and soon saw the beacon fire lit by McKay to guide us, and re-^ained tht> camp at 1 a.m., on Sunday morning, nfter a most exhausting paddle against the wind, which blew our light boat faster back at times than wo k ou)d get her ahead. July 21st, being Sunday, we rested. Quantities of raspberries grew round the camp. July 28bd. — Spence was taken so ill that we had to stop. The medicine I ,7a ve him not seeming to relieve him, he begged for Indian medicine from a camp of the Indians near. A woman came, who gave him something or other with much ceremony, and then a man came, who gave him something else, with more ceremony. Neither preparation, however, seemed to do him much good. On Wednesday, the 24th, Spence getting no better, asked to be sent back to Prince Albert ; so arranged with some Indians to take him to the skin boat we had left on the bank of the river, and to paddle him down in it. They made an iugcuious "travail" behind a cart, to carry him in. I am very sorry to lose him, and he said he was very sorry to go. I give a sketch of the travail, as it is an excellent plan for carrying a sick person easily. McKay engaged a Cree Indian to take Spcncc's place. Passed a camp of Cree Indians and camped near the Eagle Hills. There are few buffaloes in the plains, bur Indians are in eveiy direction. McKay told me many of the old Indian legends, of which some, evident'.y traditions of the Deluge, are very curious. This is one : — " Ninapns was a great chief ; ho lived at '.he time of the great flood, when " all living things were drowned, and no more earth remained. He made a big raft, and put on it some " of all the animals, but the waters lasted long, so Ninapus sent the musk rat, and told him to dive to " the bottom to see how deep it was ; and the rat was to bviug beck some earth to shew he had gone to " the bottom ; but the rat was drowned, the water was tor deep I Then Ninapus sent the beaver, and " he brought back a little mud on his taU. This Ninapus took, and putting it on a chip made great « medicine, and the mud began to increase. Then ho sent the plover, with directions to paddle round " the edges, and make it fiim. This they did, and may now be seen still paddling round holes and lakes <• not yet filled up. ' Then he sent the fox to walk round and see how large the land was ; and the fox " came back and said it was far. 60 the grey wolf (a species found on the sea shore) was sent, but he *' journeyed and journeyed, and still may be seen going on, and never came back, for the journey was *' so great he has not yet completed his task. Then Ninapus lauded with the animals, and he made fat " (or greasj), and said to the musk rat (the relict, I prcRume, of the drowned one), " Swim with the " grease in the water till it is cool ;" and he put up a medicine lodge, and told the waterfowl to assemble *' for a dance, directing them to dance with their eyes shut. Then Ninapus began to twist their necks, " but the water hen had kept one eye open, and she cried, "Bun, for he twists our necks." And they " flow out, which made Ninapus angry, and as the water hen went out of the door of the lodge, he gave " her a kick in the rump, which broke it, so the water hen now always flies with her legs hanging down, " for her rump was broken by Ninapus. 80 Ninapus went to the lake, but the rat had broken the bladder " of fat amongrt the reeds, aiKl ihu fnt was all floating on the water. Ninapus said, " I v.'ill give the " animals a feast," and he sent for them. The first to como was the rabbit. I'his made Ninapus angry, " and lie caught hold of tlio rabbit, saying, " You are always first for either good or evil," but the rabbit "jumped backwards through his hand, though his grip was so firm that he dragged all its fat in front of " its Biioulders. So no fat is found on the rabbit, except in front of the shoulders to this day." July 26th. — Passing tlirough the Eagle Hills, I tried to get "Turk" to run a wolf, but he declined with thanks. Wo passed several camps of Indiuis, Banteux, and Crco; all complain of tlic great scarcity of buffalo. The Sautcux Indians decorate their long black hair by twisting brass wire tightly round a lock on either side of the face, the hair at the back made into a tliiok mat by being mixed with buffalo hair and grease. Sometimes a fox's tail, or that of a wolf, is plaited into the mass Three or four dabs of Vermillion, a pair of mocassins, a brass bracelet, two eagle's 'eathcrs, and half an old blanket, complete the '■( »nme. The weather has been inteiiHcly hot during tlio day, but the nights aro cool and delicious. JoLY 20th. — Wo pas'-cd some Indian women and children iravcUing, all their worldly posHessious drawn by two dogs, harnessed, in travails. The women said they were living only on the Navaux, the root of the wild turnip. They loo!::?d tliin, and in want, so we left them a supply of pcmmican. Reached Battluford about 10 -x.tn. It is prettily situated on the banks of Battle River, near where it runs into tho North SaHka''>Iiewau. There is a council house hero, and a council, composed of the Qovomor, Iii[r. Layard, the Colouei ot Police, a Stipcudary Magisttato, and one elected Member, our old friend, Pascal IS good lis at Prmcc Albert and it k Bveltin. The soil is not ucaily as good is rather too near the roving tribei of 21 the Bionx to make it a favourite place for settling. We were charmed by an Indian dressed in blanket and a tall black hat, with a cock's feather at the top, and a piece of striped calico tied round it, stalking with immense dignity, and real majesty of manner, fanning himself at each step with an eagle's wing, and followed by his squaw and a child in a dog travail, holding on to the dog's tail. His name I found out from Henry was " Mooseberry." Indians are excessively reluctant to tell their names, and rarely use them in speaking of each other, but say, "The son of such-an-one," or, "the brother of so-and-so I" and a son-iu-law will not name or sometimes even speak to his father-in-law, although living in the same Lodge with him. We heard here that the buffalo law, forbidding the killing of these unfortunate animals in close time, has been repealed, there being no possible way of enforcing it. Of the vast herds of buffalo that covered these prairies formerly, there now exists but one large herd, hemmed in and hunted by the Indians and half- breeds on every side, till the poor beasts are this year so thin, that no pemmican has been made in this district, from tue entire absence of fat. Whilst at the elbow of the Saskatchewan, six yearling calves came by our cam; at a gallop, evidently having just been run. Of course the Indians near us ran them, but killed only one, it being nearly dark. They could hardly have stopped travelling when they were descried, in the early morning, by another party of Indians, who at once gave chase, killing foiir. In ' tills way, the buffalo will soon be extinct, and nothing left but the bones scattered over the whole prairie. Gotoparatively, a few years back, they could be seen in herds extending farther than the eye coula reach — "The herds of the Lord ; the cattle on a thousand hills." July 27th. — Passed through the Wolf Hills, and took a new trail to Edmonton. Found a beautiful clear lake, by which we were on the point of camping, when I luckily sent a man down to taste the water. It was simply brine — the saltest I rver tasted, save out of a beef cask. Sunday, 28tb. — Some of the oa t iorses having bad backs, wo made an ointment of powdered char- coal and buffalo fat, and put it on iLcm. Monday. — The country was more thickly wooded, and water was plentiful. I killed a large crane flying, with my riffe, and saw some fresh buffalo tracks, which we followed, until we lost them on some hard, dry ground. We ate the crane for dinner, and found it much better than wild duck. At 2.80 p.m., mean time of place nearly, observed a partial eclipse of the sun. The sun's diameter was half obscured, and the coolness of the air, and the curious twilight, dm-ing the obscuration, was remarkable. We had to travel late to find water. July 80th. — Saw several herds of antelope, but I have no iime to hunt until I reach the mountains. Camped, at night, by the Four Black Foot Hills ; so called from four Blackfoot Indians having been killed here, in one of their many wars with the Grees. July 81&T. — Cantering on a-head saw a buffalo bull close on the trail. I ^ad "Frank" saddled, "The Jew" having lamed himself. Alice rode "Prince," McKay got on " Paddy," Macbeth jumped on "Lenoir," and Alexander on another horse. I gut within 80 yards of the bull before he saw mo, and off he went. I made " Frank'' go his best pace, and gained quickly. Just as I was closing, tho horso shied off to the left, and would not come up to the bull. Down a steep hill wet>t the bull. I followed on " Frank," who had no objection to running behind the bull, but excessively disliked being alongside of him. At last, I had to uso my carbine pistol fashion, and off shied " Frank" again. Tho bull, now lame, afforded us no more sport, but from my homo's hard mouth and awkwardness, I had to fire several shots before he fell dead. Ho was a very old bull. We camped by a very pretty little lake, evidently ii favourite place witli tho Indians — many old camp fires, lodge poles, and odda and ends of reu cloth strewn there. Auo. 1st. — Four Cree Indians came to us whilst halted near the Vermillion River, and wore duly regaled with tea, and presented with tobacco. Their camp, tlioy said, was about two mile? iff. They disposed of a gallon of tea, with no apparent difficulty, and took off a badger with them, w'lich I had shot, and gave to them. Here I may describe the usuiil manner of mcGting and entertaining Indians. When hiiltod for raid-day, suddenly a horseman appears, riding up at a gallop, blanket, feathers, and hair, stroan ing behind him, his gun, in a fringed mooso-ukin cover, laying across tho horse's shoulders in front of him. Iloining short up at the onmp, tlio Indian dismounts, and advances, with right hand oxtoiulod, to tho chief of tho party, never, in my experience, mistaking his man. Then, after shaking hands, ho squats at tho fire, and, liglitiug his pipe, sits gravely observant, not having uttered a word. Now, I advance, and present him with ii foot of black pig-tail tobacco. The Indian quietly thanks mo with a doop "How," and resumes his quiet observant attitude. When dinner is ready, he receives a sliare, and, then, any questions asked liim about game, &c., he civilly and truthfully answers. Ho askt no questions, but could tell where the pnrty wore going, for what purpose, und where they came from, to the braves in tho soldicr'n Iddgo of his tribo that night. In ray oast, it was reported, (in cases I heard of after,) "That tho "Fjuglishman that Bhobts" (my Indian name,) had passed, with his Squdw, to hunt in the far "Assiniwatohi," or mountains of stone." Aug. 2nd. — We are now getting into the region of pine trees, of which wo saw a good many to-day. The country hilly and woody. " Jennie," our mule, broke a cart iixlo, so had to camp uarly. This anme "Jennie" is a most sagacious and experienced animal. She knows exactly how to travel in comfort to herMlX. tJUo refuses to bo driven, but, left to herself with her cart, follows the train without lugging, except uphill. Bat sh« makes this np, on arrival at the top, for she descends with a gallop. BhA avoids stones, deep ruts, &o., for her cart, and cannot be induced to go on bad, boggy ground. U allowed to do her work her own way, she does it well and cheexfuUy ; but, if she considers the day's work fairly over, and we still go on, somehow, her shaft or cart-axle is sure to break ; and " Jennie," not the least flurried, stands stock still till unliarnessed. Then she feeds complacently off, looking at her cart as much as to say, " Somehow I thought that would happen." The men say she does it on purpose. She has, this year, travelled 1,900 miles up till now, and looks sleek and fat. When running loose, you never see her trot in the dust raised by the train ; but, taking her own line, she takes a nip of any extra nice grass as she goes. I have a great esteem for "Jennie." McKay bought her from some Indians from Cypress Hills, and they said she ran buffalo well. I don't doubt it, if she liked the sport. Aua. Srd. — The country, to-day, was more open. Killed a great crane at 150 yards, with my rifle, and saw many pelican, geese, ^ui ducks. In the evening, water scanty, and a thunderstorm imminent. I galloped off to the left of the track, and fortunately, found a rivulet, where we camped. Sunday, Aua. 4th. — Had a trial who could sleep longest. Alexander Macbeth beat the party by twenty- five minutes, which, considering everybody's aptitude for sleep, was not bad work. After service, I looked .at the thermometer, which registered 96. On Monday, got away before sunrise, hoping to reach Fort Saskatchewan, but, owing to the heat, could go but slowly. Ally and I, with McKay, stopped behind the train, under the shade of some poplar trees, and followed up when the sun got low. On the way, dropped a wolf at 200 yards, with my rifle. A heavy thunderstorm now came up, and we got to camp just as the first drops began to fall. Aua. 6th. — Arrived at Fort Saskatchewan, a Mounted Police Station, where Gapt. Guyon kindly gave us breakfast while our carts were crossing the Ferry. After crossing, one of the constables came up, and gave us a present of vegetables and potatoes, and then asked us to " come and see hi.s garden." He was a Kentishman. His name was Tabor, and ho knew all about Seveuoaks and Montreal. He had been in the London police, and said he was doing well out here, the Prohibitory Liquor Law of this country having been his salvation. His garden was quite a sight. I never saw anything so luxuriant as the growth and size of vegetables and everything in his well-kept plot of ground of about four acres. He also showed us a giant rye, called the " Bocky Mountain bye." He said he had with difiiculty obtained a little of the seed, the story being that the original seed was found in the crop of a wild goose. The •ars are fully four times larger than ordinary r}'o, and the grain larger in proportion. The Constable kindly promised me an ear of the rye, when ripe, to take homo. Camped 2i miles from Fort Edmonton. Auo. 7th. — Rode over to the Fort. Mr. and Mrs. Hardisty were most kind, and we stayed for dinner with them. The fort is situated on the northern bank of the Saskatchewan. It is surrounded by a high stockade, enclosing about three acres of ground ; a square wooden tower, loopholed for musketry, stands at each corner. The stores and other buildings, with the exception of Mr. Hardisty's house, which stands on an eminence near, are inside the stockade . The fort is excessively badly placed , being commanded from almost every direction ; but the view from it is quite lovely. At Mr. Hardisty's, we met Mr. Tait, a Hudson Bay Ofticer, arrived from Kamloops, British Columbia. He had endeavoured to bring 270 horses over the mountains, through the Yellowhead Pass, of which number he had only succeeded in l-iiuging ten ; but hopes to be able to get through some more. He describes the trail as simply fearful. 1 decided here to send our riding horses back to Prince Albert with McKay, who now leaves us. Alexander Macbeth taking charge of tho train under my directions. I am sorry to lose McKay, as he has been very pleasant, and has the knack of making the men work and pull together. Ho was one of tho first settlers at Prince Albert, which has now grown to be quite pn agricultural settlement. The soil in rich ; in fact, they have everything there except a market for their produce. Battleford, the Government seat, haH a poor light Hoil, and, with the ex- ception of the Mounted Police, and one or two oflicials, there are very few settlers, Thojr have a Telegraph there, and a Post, whilst Prince Albert has to send 100 miles to thenearost Telegraph Omce, ar..d CO miles to the nearest place where letters can be left. This creates much bitterness between Prince Albert and Battleford, and no settler from Prince Albert can see any good in any one or anything at Battleford, Finding this out, I had much fun with McKay, whilst passing Battleford, by admiring everything about the place. " It is quite a large town, McKay," I said, as we approached. " I had no idea of anytliing like this in the north-west." " There is nothing at all here, sir," he answered ; *' if you take away the Government buildings." I then picked out two small stores by the Hide of the trail, where sardincH and plug tobacco might bo obtained at ruinouH prices, and remarked, '* At any rate, when shopkeepers find it worth while to come out, you see the resources of tlie place must develope." Thin system of irritation I continued quietly, until he was nearly frantic, and he only found out that I was ohafting. aftur endeavouring in a lengthy comparison between the advantages of Prince Albert, and tlic disadvantages of Battleford, to convince mo that the whole site and existence of a town at Battleford, was a gigantic mistake. His serious nnd anxious face made me burst out laughing, which I was sorry for, as I never succeeded in diawing him Bl)out Prince Albert again. Auo. 8th. — 1 wrote homo, and was busy all day, trying to get liorsos, or rather ponies, to carry us in the mountains, and succeeded in getting two very good ones— a hay fur Alice, and a chestnut for myself, named, respectively, " Billy" and " Toby." Mr. Ilardisty kindlylont mo two liorses, a strong brown and a bobtailed pony ; and Mrs. Hardisty and her sister, Mrs. Wood, drove out witii us to our camp, accompanied by Mr. Hardisty ou horseback. The night was lovely, and wc all sat a long while by the camp fire before they returned. 4k: BUF-FALQ HIAO. 28 Aoa. Otb.— MoEay engaged an Englishman named Dennison, instead of the Cree, who says he is sick, which is what an Indian always says when he is tired of the trip. We bid Mr. and Mrs. Hardisty good- bye, and started for Lake St. Ann's, beyond which we cannot take the carts, bnt shall have to pack. Wo passed Le Grand Lao, where there is a Soman Catholic mission called St. Albert. This is one of the prettiest places imaginable, with a well-built Church handsomely decorated inside by the priests who UTed in a small house on one side, whilst some Sisters of Charity, of the order called "Les Soeurs Qrises," lived in the most lovely little house on the other. A verandah, with a balcony in front, runs round the front of it, covered mtix creepers ; and a pretty little flower garden, bright with colours lies in the front of that. The Sisters gave us tea, with delicious fresh raspberries and cream, and then took us to see the Girls' School, a large airy room, with the beds ranged round two sides, in tiers or bunks. These are occupied by the children who are orphans, and are entirely maintained and educated at the expense of the Mission. Everything is beautifully clean and tidy. The children, mostly half-breeds, sang very prettily, both in French and English. They look well-fed, clean, and as happy and smiling as possible. They told us that they had here, about sixty children to educate. The Sisters made us promise to come to see them on our return. Pere le Due took us to see some good wood carving in the Church, also some fair fresco painting, done by the Priests, and showed us a large house building for the Bishop, who is, at present away in France. It may be a singular coincidence, but I have noticed that, wherever there is a Mission of any persuasion, where there is a Bishop, it has been my unfortunate luck to find him always away in his own country, as one is usually told, endeavouring to collect funds. We cantered on, and found our people camped with Mr. Tait's party near Le Grand Lac. He is returning to Tete Jaune Cache, in the hopes of being able to get more of the H.B. Co.s horses through the Pass. Presently, with much shouting and cracking of stock whips, a mob of cattle from British Columbia were driven up. This (the first attempt to bring cattle across the mountains by the Yellowhead Pass) has been a failure, and the owner will lose largely, having lost by accidents one half his animals. Aoo. 10th. — McKay left us, taking back our riding horses, namely " Prince," " The Jew," " Frank," " Pheasant," and the chestnut lent us by Mr. Clarke. Travelling on, the country got more and more wooded, the trail worse and worse, until, finally, after noon, we entered a thick poplar forest, and the carts and waggon were reduced to a walk. We camped by a creek with Mr. Tait's party. He goes on to- morrow (Sunday), but kindly says he will wait as long as possible, at Lake St. Ann's, in order to help us, my men oeing unused to packing. Sunday, Auo. 11th. — Mr. Tait's party left us. A " blue jay," or " whiskey jack," has attached himself to our camp, and hops about, fearless, and extremely inquisitive, helping himself, without ceremony, to anything that suits his fancy. Atio. 12th. — Alice and I rode on before our men to Lake St. Ann. The track ran through the forest to the edge of the lake, which we followed for some five miles, until we arrived at the H.B. Fort, where we were hospitably received by Mr. Kirkness. The lake is a very large one, fully ten miles in breadth, and twice that distance in length. We had much ado to arrange our pack saddles, and packing equipment, and I fear the horses would have suffered, had not Mr. Tait most kindly lent us his head packer, Connor, to fit our pack saddles, also the gear, and teach my men to pack the horses. I engaged a half-breed, Judani. This name being rather awkward to call out suddenly he was at once named Johnny. I also got lid of Dennison here, whom did I not like. I think he has been little used to travelling, and, I noticed, was not over obedient to Alexander Macbeth. There is a small Roman Catholic Church here, with a Priest. Auo. 18ti', — Mr. Tait's train started, he and Cfnnor waiting behind for some horses which had not been found. Ihj B.C. Priest paid us a visit, and then, with Mr. Tait's and Connor's assistance, wo commenced the serious business of packing the horses. First, each pack has to be compressed into the smallest possible space. Each horse carries three, two side and one top. Side packs must bo of exactly equal weight, and the top pack must not be too bulky, or it is constantly catching in the thick and fallen timber through which the uorses have to pass. Our tent polos have to bo cut in two, and the ridge pole fitted with a hinge iu the middle. Finally, t)io whole of the bundles have to be secured on the horses' backs by lash ropcH, which must, of necessity be hauled so taut, that the poor animal walks about looking like a wasp. Finally all wuk packed, and we started down a pretty trail, witli Hiuooth grass Tinder our horses' feet, iu groat spirits, s* getting Htnrted fairly for the mountains. I bought a bay mare from Dennison, called " Kate," sine ii^ good-looking, and 1 think a good animal Her owner wished us "good- bye," hitching up the beautifully ornamented fire bag in liis sash. I noticed that, whenever wanted to do anything, such as help a horse out of a bog, or pull a cart wheel out of a hole where it stuck, he rushed at the work, as if everything was going to fly before him. Then came a slight hesitation, and then he carefully hitched up his tire bag in his sash, and lot somebody else do the work. Our grassy avenue noon began to narrow to a more track, and fallen trees and branches began to lay thickly across it. In many places, the ground was soft aiul boggy ; little creeks, with throe inches of water and a bottomless abyss of mud were crossed by two or throe poles, generally rotten, tlirown across and covered with branches. These bridges had all to be tried. One of our pack horses, liowevor, foil tlirough one, luckily not hurting llimsolf. Our horses were constantly kept jixmping the fallen timber, as uotbing is considered worth cutting undr three foothigli The forest was excessively dense, consisting, mostly, of pine, poplar, and birch. We camo up to Mr. Tuit s party camped near a lake, called by the ludiaus, " The Lake of the 81 Islands," and camped near them. Here Mr. Tait and Connor soon nfter joined, the latter having had a bad fall at one of the rotten bridges, bis horse falling on his leg ; fortunately he was not muoh hart. Acq. 14th. — Started about 7.80, thanks to Mr. Tait's kind assistance, in helping, and directing my men. He has also lent me an experienced packer, from his party, a balf-breed, called "Jack." Mr. Tait rode with us, behind the trains. He is very pleasant and agreeable. The track was very bad, the forest dense, and choked with dead fallen trees, making the horse's work, much like playing at spellicans. We crossed the Pembina River. Its high banks covered with timbisr, except where white cliffs break throngh the dark green foliage of the trees. The current was swift, and the river broad, but shallow, I noticed much coal laying amongst the gravel of its bed. We camped at Steep Bank Creek. Acq. 16th. — There is little variation iu our day's travelling. We are rldmg in a long string, at a slow walk, necessitated by the extreme badness of the trail. First rides Macbeth, on a handsome brown pony, that is rather a handful for him. Then four loose horses and two pack horses. Then Jack the half-breed, who varies the constant refrain of " Git up," by cracking a ponderous stock whip. Then three more pack horses, followed by " Johnny," on his little roan pony. Three more pack horses, and Alexander on the bobtail, who only escaped packing by reason of his tail being so short, the crupper would not remain. Lastly, followed Alice, Mr. Tait, and myself. We seldom can see more than - one horse ahead, and only are aware of the presence of the others by the cries of " Now Jenny," or " Hoi Jocolat I" (Chocolat) or worse still, the repeated order " Hold hard ; a horse down in front." Still the shade of the trees is delicious, as the sun, on the rare occasions that we are exposed to its rays is very hoi. Camped by a creek in a small opening made by a forest fire. A slight shower of rain (Aug. 16th) made the forest extremely disagreeable to ride through, the wet from the leaves thoroughly soaking one, as one brushed by them. Aug. 17th. — Met some Stone Indians (Assiuiboiucs) who came to me and complained that some white men had stolen their only axe. Through an interpreter, I told tliem I could hardly believe that it had been willingly stolen, but that, probably it had been found by white people who thought it was lost ; but that, if one of their young men would accompany me to where we camped, I would give him another axe, which one of their party gladly did. He rode behind me, and I amused myself by getting him to tell mo the names of horse, gun, knife, &c., in Assiniboine language. We passed a beaver dam, just broken down by these Indians in order to get the beaver. The work of tlicsu animals is to be seen on every little creek and stream. Some of the dams are so beautifully finished as to look like the finished work of man. The trail was to-day, if possible, worse than ever. We were iu the midst of a large brulc, the dead, burnt timber, some standing, but most of it fallen in every poHsiblo way across the track. The ground, the moss having been burnt, was converted into a huge bog. Our poor pack horses were down several times, one sticking fast twice, and having to be extricated by being unloaded and rolled on his side. This horse I have named " Delay." lie is a gallant old beast, but his strength is not equal to his pluck. No soont^' does he see a worse bog than usual, than without taking thought, or hesitating a moment, he dashes into the worst part of it, makes a frantic plunge or two, and waits for us to get him out of it. As John Macbeth says, " There is nothing mean about that horse, but it is his hurry that spoils him." We camped at Wolf Greek Mr. Tait's party liad got five miles further on ; they having not so many horses to pull out of bogs hud gone on rather quicker. I asked Mr. Tait to stop with us, and lent him spare tent and blankets. Our Assiniboine friend also remained with us for the night, thoroughly enjoying the luxury of unlimited tea and tobacco. Sunday, Auo. 18th. — The Assiuiboino left us a iiappy man, with his presents, aud Mr. Tait rode on, to catch up his party. Wo hope to meet him again iu the Ycllowliead Pass, where he must be some time with his horses. Our camp is not a pretty one ; nothing but burnt trees visible on every side, some standing, but most fallen in a confused mass. All as dry as tinder. The terrible danger iu these brulees is of being caught by a second fire. I gave directions to the men, should such an occurrence Bur|)rise us, to get the tents and blankets to the nearest water ; then, choosing the most open piece of ?;round, pitch the tents, thoroughly soaked with water, and cover with all the blankets, skins, and buf- alo robes, thoroughly soaked, carefully closing every aperture. It would be the only possible chance of escaping the great danger and the suffocating smoke. To attempt to nm would be fatal. All our men, even Johnny, the half-breed, joined with us at our Sunday service. Monday, tue 10th.— Today, we got the first glimpse of the mountains, throngh an opening in the forest, and, whilst riding ahead of the train, saw the largest wolf I have ever seen, but only for an inst- ant. Ho vanished in the thickets of the forest. We arrived at the McCleod River, and crossing our packs and selves in a canoe found there, drove the horses through. They could just ford it without swimming. It is a swift running stream, and looks a perfect river for fly-fishing. We saw many traoka of bear and moose, the former very fresh ; and, as we were camped close to the river, I put my rod to- gether, to try if there were any fish that would rise to the fiy, but did not got a single rise. TuKsoAY, THE 20rH. — Our course now run along the northern bank of the MoLeod. Several of my men saw a mule deer {eorvus macrotiii). We got a grand view of the mountains, their snowy peaks ex- tending to the north and south, as far as the eye could reach. Fished a small brook in the evening, and killed one trout, one char, and two grayling. The trail now runs principally through green timber, which is always much better than the burnt ground. Poor " Delay," however, again came to grief at a steep place, from being iu too great a hurry, as usual, and camo over backwards, without hurting liimMll 21 in the least. Foand a letter from Mr. Tait, stock iu a tree, saying he had eaagbt his train here after dark, when redneed to despair, and half a square inch of tobaooo. Camped again by the MoGleod. Alice and I killed, with a fly, two large 6lb. troat and eight grayling. The cTening was cold and rainy, so, thinking a glass of grog would do my men no harm, I told Jomt Macbeth to give it to them ; and, pres- ently, I hewd shoots of laughter. On enqoiriog the oaose» John told me that, on offering it to the naif- breed. Jack, he started op, whispering, " sb I sh I be qoiet. He'll hear yoo. Where did yoo get it ? " he being londer the impression it was stolen on the sly. This delighted my men, who are far abovs anything of the sort. Tbubsoat, tbx 22nd. — We were all dav crossing a high range of hills, separating the MoOleod and Athabasca Rivers. I saw and shot three olack or tree partridges — one with Iny rifle, shooting it where I aimed, and knocking its bead off. I saw fresh bear tracks. They are all of small black bear. After a long tiring march, camped by the Athabasca Biver. We saw manv old deserted camps, both of Stony Lidians and also of the Iroqaois. We followed the Athabasca Valley throogh much bomt timber, and aboot noon, entered the Yellowhead Pass. The scenery ^rfectly lovely; the monntains rising boldly on either hand ; and, on the left, a huge pillar of rock, towermg high above the sorroanding hills. This is called, by the Indians the Myette Book, or Bookimoowatchi, or Chief Book. We camped aboot nine i^es from the crossing of the Athabasca, near Jasper's Hoose. Saturday, the 24tb. — At the crossing, we were met by the Iroqoois, who welcomed oor arrival with gonsbots, and assisted ns greatly, with their canoes, in crossing ourselves, and our luggage. The river is deep, and the current exceedingly swift, and we should have had much trouble, had not Mr. Tait told the Indians we were coming. We nearly had a mess in swimming our horses. They headed back when in mid-stream, and drifted under a steep bank, where the water was deep ; and, on being driven over again, they missed the landing place, and got under a bank below, then some tried to stem the current, whilst others vainly endeavour to effect a landing. It was excessively difficult to drive them down to a spot, not 100 yards below, where they could land. FinaUv, they got all over safely, but some were so exhausted that they lay down immediately thev got ashore. We thu were obliged to camp near the Iroquois, whose camp consisted of eight lodges made of moose skin, which, in the forest, replaces the buffalo skin lodge of the prairie Indian. Of course, all turned out to greet nu ; and, after presenting tobacco, they were pleased to say that I was their Houkimow, or Chief, — a title apparently easily got, with a few yards of strong black twist. The Indians were round our camf> all the evening, and, on our retiring, returned to their own camp, to celebrate our arrival by drummmg and singing their songs of " Hil Hit Ha ! Ha I " all night long. I never could distinguish any tone ; but, yet, some are considered better singers than other, and a reputation as a good performer on the drum is not easily acquired. Sunday, 26tb. — Alexander, accompanied by Jack, rode over to Henry House, (n cache made by Government at the time of the surveying,) to see if an American fur trader, who is there, had any stores that we wanted. In the Iroquois camp, we saw five Iroquois and a Ghicauee Indian playing a gambling game for tobacco. The players, three on a side, sat facing each other, each side with an old blanket spread over their knees. One side sang and drummed vigorously, whilst the other, with their heads buried under the blanket, scratched and shouted, and worried, like a Bkyo terrier, who thinks he has got very close to a rabbit in his hole. Their object was to shuffle little bits of stick, or buttons from one hand to the otlier. Then, at a particular part of the song, they raised themselves, swaying their bodies, with their arms crossed, and their long hair flying about. Then one of the drumming party clapped his hands, and held up either his right or his left hand, and the music stopped. Those who had the stick in the hand that was held up scored one, by placing a little piece of stick in front of them, and, with a shout and fresh gesticulations, worried awav beneath the blanket again; whilst those who had nothing in the band held up were put out. When all three of a side were out, the drums changed hands, and the game went on as before. They started five hours ago, and, as I am writing, I hear the incessant " tom, turn." of their drum still going on at their camp. I engaged an Indian named Paulet, who has the reputation of being a good hunter, to come with me. His daughter made me a capital saddle bag of buffajo skin, covered with part of an old mackintosh. The Cmcanee Indians come from the country above Peace Bivcr. They say that the wood buffalo are extinct, none having been seen since the time of their faUiers. AuauBT 20tu. — As it was impossible to get readv to start to-day, we rode over to Mr. Tait's camp, and had dinner with him ; and thou rode to see his mob of horses, from British Columbia. They were mostly well-bred looking animals, but miserably poor and thin. August 27Tn.— I sent Paul and Alexander to " c&ohe," some stores in the abandoned Jasper's House. The former returned in a groat state of excitement, saying he had cached all his worldly goods there, and all had been stolon by tlio scoundrels, who had taken the Assiniboine's axe. Paulet at once wished to go in chaso, saying that ho would wait and hang about their partv, and after dark, would steal their horses, and so repay himself. Uowovor, as this would be an extremely bad precedent to allow, I dissuaded lum, at the same time, promising to have the men punished. This, I can do, through Mr. Tait, who is himself returning to British Columbia, for which province he is a Justice of the Peace. This settled, we forded a deep and rapid stream, that runs into tiio valley, on the Northern side, and started up an old Indian trail, leading towards the district of the Peace Biver. AoavsT 88tb.— Paulflt saying that ws aboold w sheep, we rode ahead of the train, and had not gone far. 96 when we saw Bome cross the river, on some rocky precipitous ground. The salt crops ont in places along this river, which makes it a favourite salt-lick, for the sheep. We bad to ride some distance, before we oonld ford the river ; and leaving our horses tied, made a stalk to the place where we bad seen the sheep. On arriving there, they had disappeared, but we got a glimpse of them, feeding about a quarter of a mile further up. Got an easy stalk, and got above them, killed the first with my right barrel, and would easily have killed the second, had not Paulet got excited and tugged at my arm, as he thought that, as I did not lie down, and rest my rifle on a stone — Indian fashion — that I didn't see it. I cautioned him to keep quiet and well back another time, and then we had a slide and scramble to the bottom of the cliff, where I found the sheep lying dead, with a bullet through its heart, one horn broken by the fall. It was a large ewe, and very fat. The Miati, or Booby Mountain sheep, is less like a sheep than a deer. In coat, they much resemble the " cabri," or plain antelope, though the colour is a little darker. In the ram alone, the huge curved horns gives the head the appearance of the sheep, though of a gigantic size. It is a large and heavy animal, standing higher than an antelope, or about the height of a fallow deer. At this season of the year, the rams, being very fat, are seldom found in the lower ranges, or at the salt- licks, but lie, cool and secure from flics and mental anxieties, amongst the snows of the highest peaks. We had a hard climb up the cliff, and, reaching our horsi^s, re-crossed the river, to find our men camped on the opposite side. Of course, fresh mutton was hailed as a great luxury, and it certainly deserves its high reputation amongst the Indians as a delicacy, being by far the best mutton I have ever tasted. August 20th. — We forded the river on horseback, taking Johnny with us to drive our horses back, and then ascended the mountain opposite our camp, accompanied by Paulet. After three-and-a-half hours hard climbing, we reached the limit of the growth of trees. The ground now consisted of loose shale and small debris, sloping sharply down to cliffs below. This was crossed in every direction by sheep paths. The worse tlie ground the more the sheep apparently like to frequent it. We were quietly walking on, when Paulet suddenly crouched, and pointed below him. Creeping up with my rifle, I saw the horns of a ram, about 60 yards below us. He had been lying down on a bed made by scraping the shale out with his foet. Paulet called like a ewe, and, as he stood up, I saw the whole of his head and neck. Fearing to spoil his horns, I fired at the latter, and he fell, the bullet having broken the spine. Paulet ran to him, and held him whilst giving his expiring kicks, to prevent him rolling over, and away down the steep slope, to fall from cliff to cliff, to unknown distances below. He was four years old. but I am disappointed with the size of tlie horns. After cutting him up, and taking the head, we went on, and saw many ewes, which I would not stalk, having plenty of meat in the camp. We returned about 6 p.m., and, after a long consultation with Paulet decided to try back by the Yellowhead Pass. This will be better for our pack horses, who sadly need rest. August 80th. — Returned to Jasper's House, and camped about three miles above it, with a lovely view of the Athabasca Lake and Mountains on the opposite side. Aug. 81st. — Hunted a mountain, at the back of our camp, to which we rode, leaving our horses tethered at the foot of it. We ascended by the dry bed of a mountain stream, that had cut itself a channel little more than 15 yards in width, but, in places, fully 100 feet in depth, through the rock. The cool gloom of this passage, after the glare of the hot sun, was delicious. Saw old tracks of moose and black bear, and fresh tracks of the animal I wanted — the wahpati, or white goat. Presently, far above as, we sighted a goat with my glasses. WeMiad a long climb to get round, but, finally, succeeded in fetting above the animal, and creeping through the stunted fur trees, got within about forty yards. But could distinguish neither head, shoulder, nor any shape whatever. Amongst the trees, it looked simply like a mass of white. Aiming at the centre of what I saw, I fired, and heard the bullet strike, but, not seeing it fall, fired the second barrel. Down it went, luckily being caught by a tree before it had gone many yards. It proved to be a large white goat. Both shots had struck it — the first one, a little too far back. This animal frequents the most precipitous and rugged hills of the northern ranges of the rocky mountains, the sheep and the goats keeping entirely apart. It has long white hair over a fleecy wool. Its legs are covered with long hair, making a strong contrast to the jet black horns, feet, and nose. As we were returning on horseback, I saw an animal running quickly ahead of me. Dismounting hurriedly, I fired, knocking over a lynx,* an animal whose skin I much desired to get. The green glare in the poor beast's eyes, combined with the tuft of hair on the tips of the ear, gave it the most fiendish and diabolical look I over saw. Sbptember 1st. — Paulet brought us a present of two white fish from his brother's camp We had " alarms and exoursiona" all night with dogs from the Iroquois camp, who were determined on a " out- ting out" expedition on our stores. Sept. 2nd. — On getting ready to start, Paulet suddenly refused to go on ; said he was not satisfied ; also, that he was sick ; also, that he wanted to see his wife and family ; that they had nothing to eat. He said he could not hunt to day ; but that he would come back to-morrow. In fact, he went on the strike. It is A nuisance, but it is useless to lose one's temper with Indians, they not the least understanding why on earth anyone should be in a hurry, or why one should bother oneself about anything, so long as one has enough to eat. The worst is, all the other Indians are off hunting. I amused myself sketching all day ; and, in * Tbt \ynx—lynx eanademii, Catamount; Leupeerver; Lueifee—ia the most northern 8peoie8 oi thin genna in N. America ; it ii supposed to ooonr as far north as 66o latitude. About 40in. in length, with short tail and large feet ; o< a greyish colour, and black tips to ear and tail. The Indian dogs won't eat the flesh! The only thing I ever saw, ex> eept iron, tbey won't eat. If the evening, Alice and I rode " Billy" and " Tobv" down to the abandoned Jasper House. We fonnd there a little grave, fallen over vbich was a rough-hewn tablet and cross, with the inscription : — <' Sacred to the memory of Ann Logan, who departed this life, the 4th Feb., 1864, aged 6 montbs." " Suffer little children to come unto me." Next day, we walked down with Alexander, and replaced the tablet and cross, and endeavoured to make the inscription plainer, but with Uttlo success. SxpT. 8bd. — We are very tired of losing so much time. In the evening we saw Paulet's party arrive and cross the river. On TBI 4tu, Paulet joined us on fresh terms, and we started to move up the Pass westward. Cantering on, the trail through the Pass being good, suddenly we saw smoke ahead, and found the forest in a blaze close to the left of the path. Fortunately, the wind was ahead, and the fire being on our left, the huge column of flame was blown on one side of us. But there was not a moment to lose. So halloing to our train, they flogged the horses into a gallop, and we just got by, and that was all! The heat was tremendous. One tree was blazing not two yards from the track. When all were safe to windward of the fire, Alice and I stopped to admire the beauttful scene. The flame, as it caught one huge pine tree after another, ran up in an instant, leaving the outline of the tree in red-hot embers. I shot some more grouse to-day, with my rifle, knocking their heads off. Camped by a small stream, two miles east of the old Government cache of Henry House. An Iroquois hunter, with a boy, came to our camp at night, and remained. Sept. 6tb. — Packed three horses with sm rest of the herd, she stopped about 250 yards off, when I fired two barrels at her, and missed her clean being much blown. Ran down a small ravine to her, and getting within a hundred yards, killed her with the left barrel ; then walked up to where the stag was standing crippled, and finished the poor beast, and sat down thoroughly pumped out. He has a splendid head of twenty-five points, with the broad palmated tyne in fi'ont of the forehead well developed. Alice now joined us, having |^en ail the stalk through the glasses. The woodland caribou^', of which this stag is a very good specimen, is exactly the same animal as the wild rein-deer of Lapland and Siberia ; and, indeed, I think the barren land caribou to be only different in size and weight of horns, on account of the difference of feed. I packed the head on Paulet's back, and, taking some meat myself, we started back, reaching camp at sun-down. Next morning, Paulet absolutely refused to go for the meat, whereupon I gave him a good rowing, at which he got sulky, and disappeared with his blanket. Alice and I, rode down to Carey, at the Henry House, where we found Paulet. And now all the trouble comes out. It seems that, at first, he thought that Alice accompanying me, was bad medicine, vihich rendered it impossible for him to find game ; secondly, when sitting with his head in his hand, he had made medicine to find caribou over the ridge, a place where he had never hunted before ; and, therefore, it would be fatally unlucky for him to go for the meat, or to touch it the day after it was killed, as he could never hope that any bullet of his would then touch a caribou. They are extraordinary people, these Indians, and very tiresome to deal with. We met John, coming down, having moved the camp, on finding I was late returning. Skpt 13th. — Paulet now willing enough to go after the meat, accompanied by Alexander, John Macbeth, and Joimny, went off to bring in the game, whilst Alice and I went to the river, to trj for trout ; but it was very cold with snow, and the trout declined to rise. Sept. 14th. — Our party returned with the meat, having had hard work to carry it down to the horses. John Macbeth's account of their troubles was most entertaining. He said all had been bragging what a weight they could carry on their backs, when they started. Good large bundles were tied up in the skins, and carefully poised before starting, that no one might have any advantage. The ascent up the glacier was hard, and excessively trj'ing to them John and Alexander, unused to climbing, could hardly keep their feet. Then Alexander put his bundle down, threw out about 8-lbs. or 4-lbs. of meat, and shouldered it again. John not to be beaten, did the same ; and the whole party kept lightening their loads as they fell rather than walked along. Alexander's conscience, however, pricked him, on throwing away a piece of beautifu' meat with fat, and looking back at it, he relented, out off the fat, and replaced the meat in his bundle. When the party arrived at their horses, they were too tired to do anything but light a fire, lie down by it and go to sleep. Paulet told them the best way to descend a hill, when packed, was to do it in little jumps. Alexander's little jumps soon became long ones, till, unabie to stop himself, ho clasped the rough trunk of a pine tree with both arms, his impetus swinging him right round it, and tearing liis clothes into shreds. In the morning, John Macbeth, to chaff Alexander, declared it was a pity to leave 80 much good meat to spoil, and suggested another trip to bring it down. Alexander seriously replied, " I would'nt go up that hill again to save a man's life." Skpt. 16th. — We hunted some mountains on the northern side of the pass. Saw many ewes and a two-year-old ram, but nothing worth stalking. The ground was frozen hard, which made the steep slopes of small debris very difiicult walking. On the way to camp, saw a porcupine, and ran him with a stick. Though not a fast animal, it was all I could do to kill him amongst the thick fallen timber at the base of the hill. He got stuck between two trees, and, at each attempt of m'ne to seize him, struck quick, hard blows upward witli his tail, my leather gauntlet being stuck full of quills. Finally, Paulet came up, and knocked him on the head with a stick. The Indians think them a great delicacy, and, indeed, they are tar from bad.f Skpt. 17th.— Paulet ill — really this time. He appears quite knocked up, but says he will send his brother, Simon, on with us. So moved camp back to Jasper's House. Sept. 18th. — Hunted the Myette Hock with an Indian named Sussy Oosset. We saw some sheep right under the perpeudioulai cliff. The Indian said it would be impossible to get them, from the eddies of wind that always play ajp^ainut this huge cliff. However, we made the attempt, but without suooess. The sheep were 500 yards off by the time we ^ot to them. Sept. 19th, — Grossed the Athabasca with our horses, and with Simon, followed the oourre of the Rocky River for some distance, and then branched up the dry buU of another stream. Presently, Simon viewed sheep on our left, far up the mountain side. So telling Macbeth to camp a little further on, we * The woodland oaribou (Ranglftr Caribou) la, iu luy opinion, Identical with the European rein-deer {Ttrandui HangiftrJ whloh latter variety I shot In Norway. t Canadian porcupine— C/r«on— a tree ollmber. • 29 started up after them. The sheep having moved, we came on tliem unexpectedly, my rifle unloaded. But loading quickly, I ran up and had just time to roll over the only ram in the flock, a three-year old. Simon rushed at him as he came rolling down, and stopped him thus saving the horns. It was a plucky thing to do, the ground being very steep and bare, the slope being so sharp that Simon took the ram down by holding on to its horns, and letting the body slide in front of him. Hitting our horses' trail, we followed them to camp, and sent Johnny with " Wabee," the white horse, to Simon, to help him bring in the ram. A perfect chorus of wolves all night long, occasionally varied by the dull growl of a bear. Next day, Simon wished to return. Keasous as usual. He had said he would go with me until I killed a ram ; that his family wanted food, &c., Ac. However, I soon settled him, saying I would give him a pair of binocular glasses, if he succeeded in shewing me a really large ram. So we started to hunt ugain, and Simon succeeded in finding, with tbe glasses, a large flock of sheep, one of which he thought was a really large ram. They were a long way off, and we rode up the valley, to the other side of the mountain, where they had been seen. Leaving our horses, we ascended by the bed of a shallow mountain stream, and after an hour's steady climb, got near the summit of the ridge. Looking down from the top we should see the sheep on tbe other side. Simon was much alarmed about the wind, which seemed to be bad, but I felt sure it was only an oddy. When rested, we crept to the summit, and the wind came full in our faces. No sheep were to be seen, but creeping on a few yards, there, 180 yards below, was an enormous ram, looking quite black against the gray rocks. Instead of getting excited, like Paulet, Simon simply whispered, " I'lene^ 'la temps, il n" nous vuit pan." So taking a deliberate aim, I rolled him over. " Mmt !" said Simon, " I'mwz inn reinture," and catching hold of his belt, we half slid, half crept over the frozen shale, and saw eight rams going off to our right, about 150 yards away," Trop loin," said Simon, " .1/rti« tirez tmiJDurs." Bang went the rifle, and the rook flew close to one of the rams, " Un autre amp .'" and I fired again and again, but the distance was out of all reason. Three young rams now appeared far below us. Firing well over the back of the leading one, I heard the bullet tell, "'C" est t'>v((OT(;»Muic'i»v/i(/ic, Moimieui!" But that ram I never got, although I found much blood on his track. Alice now came up, and we descended to look at the dead ram. A magnificent head, eight years old, and perfect. The liorns measure 15i inches in circumference, and in length 88J. Much pleased we returned to our camp carrying the head, Simon following with the moat on his horse. I think this is a trophy which will not easily be matched.* Sept. 21st. — We returned to the river opposite Jasper's House, Simon preceding us. " Jenny," the mule, insisted on acting as guide going back, but would have no short cuts, going, step by step, the way she came. Johnny's English is improving. In reply to a (juestion of mine, he gravely responded, " Bet your boots," evidently thinking it a more ceremonious affirmative than plain " Yes." Sept. 2nd, Sundav. — Simon came over with his boy, Solomon, a bright intelligent lad of 18, who has made great friends with John Macbeth, whom ho intends to teach Iroquois. Johnny went ove.' to a great dance at the Indian camp in the evening, and to eat white dog. Here a card of an invitation would run : — "Mrs. Simon at home. IJancing, singing, and white dog." The drumming went on as usual all night. Sept. 28bd. — Crossed the river. Sent Johnny to Alexander with orders to come down and to be ready to return. Hunted and saw some " ewes" and a small ram, but nothing worth stalking. A heavy snow storm, and very cold. Sept. 24th. — Hunted Myette for goat without success. Alexander arrived with the rest of our horses and baggage. All, with the exception of George, a horse sent by Mr. Tait, on approval, looking well. The 25th. — Started homewards. Forded tiie Athabasca now much fallen, and camped near Fiddle River. Engaged a lialf-breod named Evan, to help us on our road. I exchanged an old coat for some nicely prepared moose and sheep skins. Sketched Evan's sister, who was delighted with the attention. Sept. 2Gth. — Beached Prairie River, and striking a new trail, by help of marks left by Connor, avoided all the burnt timber, and, coming along an excellent track, readied the camp at the foot of the mountains, at 4 p.m. Killed several partridges, J knocking their heads off with bullets. Sept. 27th. — Crossed the mountain, and camped by the McLeod River. Passed a party, driving in what they could collect of stray cattle, but they leave many behind them at rnch camp. Sept. 28Tn. — Sunday. — Rested. The cattle passed us, leaving ten cows and n calf behind. Sept. 80th. — Forded the McLeod, and, hitting a new trail, marked by blazed trees, camped at Wolf Creek, at 8 p.m. OoT. 1st — Passed the cattle again — for good, I hope, as they make all the bogs fifty times worse, and the poor beasts leave the logs laul for bridges covered with their blood. I killed a good bag of partridge to-day with the rifle, all cleanly decapitated. Johnny has brought an Indian drum with him, with which he and Evan have musical entertainments every night at camp. The latter goes back to-morrow. He don't like travelling alone, behig horribly afraid of ghosts, especially a spccioa of ghoul that lives in the forest, and devours the unhappy mortal that it catches alone at night. •The Mountain Hhoei>i Bighorn; Ovih moutiiiiu— Cuvior ; tho follDwiiiK moftHuromontn of nn old male, are given by Bir John HiohardRon, in liix " FnnuA Uoreali, Amurionna." Length to end of tail, nix fuut ; height at Bhoulder, 3(t. 6-iu; length of tail, 'i-ia.\ length of horn along ourve, 34-in,; oiroumfurvuce of horn at banc, 13-iu ; diiitanou between tips of horns, 27-in. J The black partridge, or more properly Hpriioe partridge, or Canada grouse, wore of the little known variety (eanaet fratiklini. 'This variety is, I believe, alone found on the Northern Uooky Mountaina. It differs from the more oommon variety canae* eanadenii$, in lacking the broad terminal orungubar on tue tail, and also iu having the upper tail covertu apott«d with white. 0 86 OoT. 2nd. — A strong gale of wind. Two Iroquois stopped the night, at our camp. Johnny was delighted a^ the prospect of a trio, but a duet was all that came off, one of them, being so tired, he could not sing. Toe two performers — one on the drum, and the other on the tin pot — sat with their backs to the audience, whilst they performed. They were good enough to translate some of tlie songs, for our benefit. '* Where is the Chiefs tent? Come to the Chiefs tent ! That we may drink tea." It was much approved of. Also, " We thought we saw white people. We thought we saw white people ; And that we drank tea. It turned out true ; " and, as a finale, " Go fpr water once more (i.e. for tea) ; And we will go to our lodges. The daylight breaks, my brother." As to tune, Alice says she distinguishes a difference. It may be so. The concert had not concluded when we went to sleep. Oct. 8rd. — The Indians departed. Tait's horse knocked up. Camped at Bound Lake. Oct. 4th. — Tait's horse could go no further ; so left him near water, with good feed, and a bell round his neck. Met Connor returning to Kamloops, and sent a letter by him to Mr. Tait. Camped at Lake St. Ann's, and revelled in fresh milk, sugar, and potatoes, and white fish. Here we met our old friend, the Assiniboine, to whom I gave the axe, who greeted us cordially, and, by-and-bye, our camp was surrounded by their braves and squaws. They are just back from a hunt, having killed 90 moose and many beaver. Arranged with Mr. Kirkness, to send for Tait's horse. Oct. 5th. — Called on the Roman Catholic Priest. The weather perfectly dehcious, which made our canter along the edge of the lake quite delightful. On the 8th, we arrived at Big Lake, fciendi'ig on our train to Edmonton, we rode to the Mission, according to promise, and were most kindly received. They took us again to tlie School, whore two Indian girls acted a little play in English, specially learned for us, and most capitally they did it. Then two boys and two girls were called up, who, after rending several sentences from an English, book, trans- lated it easily into French with little or no hesitation. They then parsed the English words, and, in short, surprised us much with their thorough knowledge of both English and Freucli. We then returned to the Sisters' pretty house, and wfie given a most excellent dinner, which, however, the early hour — 10.80. a.m.— would hardly permit us to do justice to. And, on going away, Alice was presented with a flower from their garden, prettily preserved in a medallion, and to myself they gave a beautifully-worked pair of mocassins. We then went on to Fort Edmonton, and found Mr. Hardisty had a boat built for us ; but the river is so low, he recommended our oaly going down by water as far as Victoria. On the Evening of the 9th, biddi^jg Mr. and Mrs. Hardisty good-bye, we started, laden with luxuries by Mrs. Hardisty's kindness, accompanied by John Llacbcth and with two boatmen — Alexander is to meet us with the horses at Victoria. Oor. 10th. — Wo made but little progrebs, Imviug to stop frequently, the boat being leaky, and we having to bale her frequently. Many ducks on the river ; but they are very wild. Shot one. Oct. 11th — Stopped and watched three gold miners at work, at the edge of the river. They most civilly showed us the process. A sloping wooden trough, closed at the higher end, sheds on to a set of iiou bars, forming a kind of roof over a wooden box, with au opening at the bottom of one side. The bars are about half-an-inch apart. A blanket is stretched below them, at the bottom of the box, at a slight incline towards the opening. The . urth and mud is Khovelled into the trough by one man, whilst another keeps lading in water, by wliich it is washed on to the roof, which throws off the gravel and atones. The finer sand and mud passing through, falls on the blanket, off which the light sand and earth are washed away, leaving only the heavy black sand and gold dust. The blankets, at regular intervals, washed into another box, which thus contains the black sand and gold. To separate those, after pouring off the water, quick-silver is mixed with the mass, which collects all the gold dust, in the form of amalgam. This is wrung out, through caribou leather, which squeezes the superfluous quick- Bilver out, to be used again. Lastly, the amalgam being subjected to heat in a pan, the quick-silver goes off in vapour, leaving pure gold dust. I never saw such wet, disagreeable work. The two men we saw, were making eight to ten dollars a-pioce per day. Stopped at Fort Saskatchewan, and got the seed of the mountain rye, from Constable Tabor, he kindly loading our boat with vegetables from his garden. Killed four ducks. Oot. 12th. — Saw three grey wolves. The water very low ; the boat constantly getting fast. Killed Bixteeu ducks and a goose. Sunday — The weather cold and cloudy. Pierre, one of our boatmen — a half-breed — an oxooUont fellow, though half-witted, is very amusing. lie gives us au account of a blackbird that wintered at Fort Edmonton ; and, as it only appeared on sunny days, no one could imagine where he hid. " At last," said Pierre, " he was discovered in a heap of buffalo robes warm, steaming." Beached Fort Victoria. Mr. Brereton, the ofiicer in charge, was most kind. We had supper with him. He gave Alice a specimen of the Saskatchewan gold of his own finding ; and gave me a prettily-worked Cree-fire-bag ! Alexander got here last night. Oct. 15th. — Bought a good-looking, but unbroken grey, for 100 dollars, with a buffalo line to catch him with. Named him " Jim." Wo camped 15 miles from Victoria. Oct. 16th. — Rode my new horse, who will soon get gentle with quiet treatment. We were overtaken by a half-breed named Cardinal, and his son, who wore returning from an unsuccessful hunt on the plains. Camped near Saddle Lake, and Cardinal presented us with some smoked white fish. Oct. 17th.— Before starting. Cardinal brought us another present of four large white fish, and cooked one for us ou a gridiron made of willows, for our breakfast. Camped by Dog's Bump Greek. SI Oct. 18th. — We camped by a lake, where there was plenty of goose grass for the horses, which is con- eidered better food than oats. On the 19th, strong gale, accompanied by snow, was right in our teeth. Camped two miles east of the Two Hills. Sunday 20th.— Deep snow. Alice and I rode on to Fort Pitt, where we arrived at 2 p.m., and were most hospitably received by Mr. and Mrs. McKay. Our train arrived at nightfall. Oct. 21st. — We were delayed, while fresh horses were being driven in for us, but were quite charmed with both Mr. and Mrs. McKay. The latter gave Alice a bcautifnlly-worked pair of gloves and a feather fan in Indian work ; and McKay gave me a quiver of war arrows. We were charmed with our stay here, and delighted with Mrs. McKay's stories. Tuesday, 22\d. — Left Pitt Heavy snow all day, but were fortunate in getting a snug, well-sheltered camp at night. Wednesday, 23rd. — SLarp frost, and a heavy fall of snow in the afternoon. The cold intense, at night, but we were again fortunate in our camp. Thuksday, iilTii. — Snowed all day. It is delaying U3 much. Camped by Jackfish Lake. By taking great care to secure sheltered camps, we are snug and warm during i'jo night. Our outer blankets, in the morning, are thickly-covered with ice. Friday, 25th. — Bitterly cold. Had much trouble in crossing Jackfish Creek, it being frozen over, but not strong enough to carry our carts, so had to out a passage, with axes, across. Found a Cree idol, from which I took some specimens of Indian work. Saturday, 26th. — Made a late start, our horses having strayed, and, about noon, saw two horses hobbled, and then saw a "buckboard" or light waggon, on the right side of the road. Riding up wilh Alice and Alexander, I at once saw something was wrong. No fire, and snow lying on the things littered about. Suddenly Alexander exclaimed, " Here's a man frozen to death." I jumped off, and found a man lying by the buckboard dead, with a wound in the left breast. I searched at once for tracks, but found none, the snow having fallen and covered all but deep horse tracks up, and some recent wolf tracks. On examining carefully, found a gun in a cover lying across the seat under some luggage. The muzzle of the cover was burnt, both barrels recently discharged, the cartridge cases being in the chambers. Called Alexander and .Joim, to observe carefully the position of the body, which showed that the deceahcd had accidentally discharged the gun, against the muzzle of which he must have been leaning, whilst packing for a start in the morning (as there had been a fire, which would not have been the case had he been unpacking in theevcning). Death must have been instantaneous. Took from the body agold watch, stopped at 5.10 ; a compass, and some tracts. The buckboard was overloaded with luggage, including some cart harness ; also tracks of more horses than could be accounted for by the two wo found. So 1 conclude deceased, who, I suppose was a Methodist preacher, had been accompanied by another man, who, on the occurrence of the accident had gone back, probably by the tracks, to Carlton ; that they had had a cart with them, and abandoned it, either through a break-down, or by the heavy snow. Some pemmican gnawed by wolves had been dragged some distance from the camp. I had the body wrapped in a blanket and tent, and put into one of my carts, as we could not leave it to bo devoured by the wolves. The pemmican had saved it so far. Wi' take the two horses with us, but they are small and weak, and will be of little or no service to us Quite a gloom has fallen over our cheerful little party. More snow. The road gets worse, and we arc yet 80 miles from Carlton, and now overladen. Got a sheltered camp. Sunday, 27th. — A violent storm of wind and snow from the eastward. Our camp well sheltered. Our horses cower into the camp, for protection and warmth. After service, the wind dropped a little, and we made fourteen miles, and got into a tliicket by a frozen swamp, where we lay, snug and warm. I hope the weather may clear, that wo may not have to abandon our carts. Monday. 28tu. — More snow. Passed a cart left by the trail, as I expected. Two trunks in it. Stopped at noon, by Bear's Puddling Lake, and then a sharp storm of wind, and snow came on. Tlie trail is fast getting obliterated. The snow readies up to the axle of the waggon. Suddenly, ahead, we heard, "Tinkle, tinkle, tinkle !" and a shout, and saw a party advancing to meet us — one man ahead on snow shoes, followed by n dog sled, and then two more men. They proved to be a party sent out to bring in tbo dead man we were carrying, whom we then learnt to be a Mr. Skinner, a Methodist preacher on his way to Victoria. He had been travelling with a French Canadian, who, on the accident liappening, had tai> ;n two horses: leaving the two wo found, to starve in hobl)les, as poor beasts, they could not paw aw y the snow, to get at the grass. Without knowing whether his master was dead, or had only fainted, n-t even touching him, or looking where he was wounded, ho had taken fright, and galloped off without blankets or provisions, and travelling two days and one night ' id arrived, with frost bitten feet, at Carlton, leaving, what, for aught he know, was a wounded man, lo perish from the cold in the wildcrucsa of snow, his report, l)eing, that he thought Mr. Skinner must be dead by that time. Mr. Clarke, the chief officer, was away, but a liastily organized party, had been sent off at once, returning in twenty-four hours, with one exception, all fi-ost bitten, and rejiorting they had lost the trail, in the deep snow. The party we now met had been started. Composed of old voi/njifurK, they were not to be so easily beaten ; and cachoing provisions for their return journey, as they went along, were travelling day and night, in hopes of being yet in time, but they are most thankful to bo able to turn back, ,ind, at my asBuranco that Mr. Bkiuucr'B death must have bcon instantaneous. They have fresh provisions, and stay by us, to help UB through. We camped together, and had quite a cheerful evening — the first for several nighta. We now followed the clear marked trail of the dog sled to Carlton. Tuesday, Oct. 29th. — Gave over the corpse, to the relief of our party. It was put into a dog sled, to relieve our weary cart horses. A little snow in the morning, but the sun came out about noon — the first time for eleven days. The warmth was most enjoyable. We must have looked queer figures, riding along, wrapped in capots and furs. Everywhere where the hair was open to the air, it was a mass of ice from one's breath. Alexander, with a blanket entirely covering him, tied round the waist with a thong of •' Shaganappy," another tie round the neck, and a third at the top of his head, giving him the appearance of an animated turnip. Made a good day, considering there was eight inches of snow, and camped in a thicket of willows, near a frozen swamp. Wednesday, the 80th of October.— A lovely, bright day, and no wind. Our party basked in the warm sunshine. Arrived at the Saskatchewan, which is nearly frozen over. Alice, and I, crossed in a canoe, whilst the people were employed iu getting a scow into the river to carry over our carts and horses. We found Mr. Clarke retiu-ned, and were most kindly and hospitably received ; and revelled in the comfort of an airy room, with a bright fire of logs blazing in the open hearth. We have had a disagreeable journey from Fort Pitt. Our mocassins have been frozen hard on our feet each day ; but by care in camping none of our party have been frostbitten. I had to give our men, however, extra warm woollen stockings, and we ourselves wore duffle socks over worsted stockings, and mocassins over all. Boots are unwearable and dangerous We met here a'Capt. Moore, and a Doctor from Prince Albert, come up to hold the inquest, at which I gave my evidence. I listened carefully to the evidence of the miserable wretch, the Canadian, and am convinced he is guilty of nothing but the most abject cowardice. Sent off a letter to McKay at Prince Albert, and were delighted at receiving a letter from home. It had been to Edmonton, and had followed us back via Battleford. The weather has quite changed. Bright warm days, and the snow thawing. We enjoyed Mr. and Mrs. Clarke's kind hospitality until Tuesday morning. McKay had arrived in the meantime with all our horses, looking well after their rest. Alexander has left us to return to Prince Albert. McKay's brother, Gilbert, with a young Canadian, named Wardrope, and an Indian named " Waitchan," make our party. John Macbeth still accompanies us. I had exchanged our tent for a buffalo leather lodge, and our train preceded us, with orders to cross the Saskatchewan on Monday, as it was reported sufficiently frozen over ; but, on coming up with them, on Tuesday, we found the ice had broken up, and was floating in thick masses down the river. Mr. Clarke gave Alice a beautiful siffleur skin robe, an excessively handsome present. McKay went with us to join our train. On Wednesday, we moved up the river to the place, where we had crossed in the summer, and on Thursday, with much trouble, my men launched the scow, and crossed all our luggage and horses safely, "Prince " alone, seeing his comrades on the other side, despised the boat, and, dashing boldly into the river, swam strongly tlirough the floating ice to the other side. Friday, 8t : — Our horses having strayed, we did not get away till noon, and camped at sunset, in a poplar bluff. On Sunday, we camped near the forks of the road, where a telegraph station has recently been put up, called "Humboldt." Here we heard of a waggon belonging to the police, that had been left near the edge of the Salt Plain. On Monday, after making about eight miles, our sledges stuck fast, not another scrap of snow. Sent Gilbert, and an Indian oft to try to find the waggon. They returned on Tuesday morning, without the waggon, which had been taken; but with a very indifferent cart, which they had purchased from a freight train. There was nothing for it, but to make travails. These primitive means of carrying luggage, consist of two poles, one tied on each side of the horse. The ends, kept apart by two cross-pieces tied to them, trail on the ground. The luggages is tied to the poles. Camped near the Lake of the Pyramid. Fortunately, we had fine weather across the Salt Plain, as it was not until Friday evening, that we reached the Touchwood Hill Post. Here we found the police waggon, with which, and a small waggon I bought from Mr. Macbeth, and a bettor cart, we started on Saturday. Mr. Macbeth gave me two beautiful black beaver skins. They are excessively rare. On Tuesday, the IPru, we reached Port Ellis, where Mr. McDonald kindly put us up. On Wednesday, wj left, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. MoD., as far as Snake Creek. On Thuhsday, t'iE 'ilsT, stopped at the Police Station at Shoal Lake, to ask Capt. Herkmer's permission to take the wagf^jn on, which was kindly accorded. The 22nd.- -We had another fall of snow, and, after passing La Portage on the 27th, arrived at Winnipeg, later in the evening of Friday, 20th. Mr. James McKay buys all my lot of nine horses. Wo calleit in all our friends in Winnipeg, and had some pleasant evenings, with both Mr. George and Mr. John McTavish ; and, tlirough the courteous invitation of Mr. Willis, the contractor of the new railroad, w')te taken through by rail to Pembina, with a party, to see the last rail laid. I was introduced to a Mr. Traill, late an officer of the H.B. Co., who was excessively kind. Wo stopped for the night at Pembina, at a thiy but very clean hotel. Our party consisted of nine, and when we arrived, we were told the house was full. Five and twenty people arrived half-an-hour afterwards, from Bt. Paul. The result may be imagined. However, thanks entirely to the exertions of Messrs. Traill ftud Willis, Alice and I got the little parlour to ourselves, and made a comfortable bed of buffalo robei , 88 on the floor. Those that were Incky of the rest of the party slept two in a bed ; those out of luck slept on the floor. Mr. Willis was awoke in the night by a third person trying to get into his bed. He at once knocked the individual down, when he heard a voice exclaiming, "Hold hard, Cap. Don't you do nothing till I strike a light." When the light was stjruck, he remarked, "Why, you are the railroad man," Mr. Willis indignantly enquiring what he was doing in his room at that time of night, he suavely remarked that he was " looking round for a bed without two in it." When I saw the numbers at breakfast the next morning, I could not conceive how they got standing room, much less space to lie down in. A very pleasant and entertaining American travelled down with us, whose business layin what he called "bugglery and fire proof safes." He had been sent for to Winnipeg, the bank there having lost the Ivey of its safe, and being unable to open it. We got on to the regular line at Glyndon, and from thence rattled down via Chicago, to New York, and secured a cabin on board the "Bothnia." The distance ridden on horseback from Fort Garry to the place where we killed the caribou, in British Columbia, and back, is 2,500 miles. My bag has been : — 1 Buffalo. 1 Wolf. 2 Caribou. 1 Goat. 1 Siflleur. 1 Badger. 1 Lynx. 4 Rocky Mountain Sheep. 8 Porcupine. 2 Crane. 40 Duck. 1 Goose. 26 Pine Grouse. 22 Prairie Grouse. 1 Ptarmigan, and 1 Water Hen. Alice Killed ;— 1 Trout. 2 Grayling. I Killed:— 2 Trout. 7 Grayling, and 1 Cliar. 28rd • We arrived liome December 28rd Shortly after our return home I received a touching letter from Mr. Eufus Skinner, of Toronto (in answer to a letter that we had written to him, relating the particulars of finding the body of his bod, Mr. Enoch Skinner), and enclosing a photograph of his late son. BeunionA Hornt', Print(>r>, Market DtnjVm nuil Newport.