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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent Atre filmAs A des taux de rAduction diff Arents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pcur Atre reproduit en un seui ciichA, il est filmA A partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaiire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m«Sthode. ^ata slure, A 1 12X r • t : 2 3 1 'f / 2 3 ♦ 5 6 " I THK LAST OF THE ARCTIC VOYAGES. EM V -'>■ ^-ts^^.i^^'itjL-cMigui^VviT TTTK LAST OP THE AKCTIC VOYAGES; HKINO A NAKItVTrVK OK TIIK KXPKDITIUN IN II..M.S. ASSISTANCK, rUDKll TlIK C'DMMAXll 111 CAPTAIN SIR liDWAin) MKI.CIIKR, (Ui. IN SKAIU'll OK SIR .rOHN KIJAN'KI.IN. DURINd TIIK VKAKS l,S;V2-r.;j-:,4. WITH XOTKS ON Till.; NATURAL IIISTOKV, IIV sin .milN IMCIIAKDSON, I'ROKKSSOII OWKN, THOMAS HKI.I, .1. W. SALTKK, AND LOVKI.I. KRF.VIv IX TWO VOIAMI-X VOL. H. ^JublisIirH ttnUrr tl)r JIuthorilu of tht UorDs eTomiMissianrrs of ll)r aDmnalli.. LONDON: LOVELL RKEVE, 5, IlKMtiKTTA STUKKT, CO\ i:.\T (iAKl^E.V. 1.S55. / u:: C 1 JlillN I :|>W.\K1) TAVI.OK, IHISTI II, LITTLK ylKEN STHKKT, LINCOLN'S INN rini.lls (M)NTKNTS <>l' VOL. II. (IIAI'TKK I llrliir •11 "I <»-li..ni \mv,.l uf IVs|,,,irlir.. I'nU- of |{rll,.l,-- Sliitniirni ..r SunivMi-s.- No n.roiint ol' W.win-ii IMvismn.- 'IIh * Hiviuljillmni' nipped. — Dcpnrlmv of llic ' I'liiniix.'- I'lvpnnilimi,, f,,,- h„„sii.fr.--Arrival of S|„.|lal).rr. Dcpdiliiir <.fl{iranl.s.---\Vntiliiti()i..--Ks,|uiinnnxlliit..— Winter I'ilti.ms. -Air-pumps.— ilospiffil S|,i,,. ThmiioiiMnTH.- -Unplmv Of Ice. — Iioosr Ice CilAITKIi II Moor in-shor.-. Op,.,. Water avnilahl.^. -' Pioiinr' pr.'imred for MTviee— |{,.|uni of l-ullni. Iiilerpi-etatioii of liistnictioiis.- 'rii<>ii!ilil> of altaiMlohini; ' liivesiiiiator.- Limits of 'IVaveliiiifi- Season. K.'uni of (Jrove. - Instnielions to Uielnirds.-.llis l'nM' !'■"' "'••"•«*' ""n-i^x-Hn.mrks „„ Snnvs. hi.nu..,. '•.,...- I ),,„| .Mn.-s KirrHsan.l Uilk^Cnu.k^iMdr ,|,.,| lmi,ucrs of Ai.l.nnii Uvrouvx of ' InvstiuatorV cvu — I.JM ol (lam<..-Food, la.t not I'url. |{:,i„ at Alclvill.. Island M. d,. Rray.-.Mran Monthly T.u.|u.ral,nv.-Siatr of tlic l.v ^-Innva... of Sea Tnn|H.rat.,n .-Shork of tl... Ir,>.--Amval of .VI'dn.tock.-Corir.pondcn.r on Almn.ionnunt.— Konr d.- voted to Assistauer.— Ufturn of Shootin- I'arly Kxtivnic <;"l«l l).'.iratl. tl.r Snow.--Kx,„.nnM.nts on Sno/Covrin... - Ksiablish fonr Posts for S|r.s of LicMitrnant llanalton.— Irrcjrularity of Tides.— Land Hprin-s.— Re tionof ("reus. Onlers . I'lnnnera- 177 ■J • ONTK.NTN. ^,, < IIMTKK VIII :7'" "'-• ■•^•••"'•-niu' l.r Tl ,ht Mit.i,.,. ml !. n!!''' • "'"'• ■^"'' "'""■'' '"'"'■ ''''■^'■'> '^'•• 'IIMTKII |\. '";';"■' ;;:■'-""'■•;"- lM.-tl,..r S..an.l. „„,.,..il,|,., I,.,,,.,.,. ''"":• -"'T';' '■ "-•I»"'t.-S.a.,. of ,1... Ho,|i..,.T|... «*'; >.'" "'•'"- '-".!• Ar.iH.Onun.l. . .,.„uu„ .„, .!.. ''""n.i;,l,u„. Iu,,.,rs>i.„,, of |s50-|s:„.. .,,,,4, ,,,,,„.,. !;'' ''••Ili"-"'^ l)isrov..n..s.. (,,.„,;„„ „„ „,, .s„,„,.,..;,,, Inssiiu,..-_||,.,v;,n|s,|,i,. lor Discovery ' ., , , AI'I'KNDIX \ ^>U|)Klt^ •' I-™! ii.i...r. on ,1... ,.,.,j,i„„, ,.,,,;,..^;,,, M..;„;(,„„,^„,; '^'^ . < m, .a..., ..ons,i„Hi,„ „... S..n .fn-k of II.M.S. Assis,...,.; •>., > • »» iiilcr {"itliiii^s •;. wn.h,an.i.;;,.iv.i..:,M;Hu:ors;,i,u;.^^^^ !;;; I., ""''••rvat ions oil Ice Crvstiils ' ' "" " I''- finuTal 'I'ahlcs of Mrt.'orolo.a ' ^"'^ <'• (on.parativ.. Tal.l.s of T..n;,„.rat„n.;ol„a„u..MVo,n An .i. ' '"' V ()vai,'c.s, LSI!) to 1855 Am.m.tor.h,. Kish. l.ySir.lol„. |{ii.|,ar.lsn„ l!^!? Arn.unt oft!,,. Ardi,. Cari.onili.rous Kos.iN. |,v .1. U Sal.n- ' ,77 No..onsona.r..„,aiusofanl..|,tl.u. •„. I,v' IVoi;>.,r ()„,,, ' !{ \.vouiit,oltl„. Shrlls. |,v I.ovrll Urn. /, , A.ro.mtortl,,. C'rusiarcn. In TI,oM,a> IVII ',*;!: TUK LAST OF THE ARCTIC VOYAGES, INDEH THE COMMAND OF CAriAIN SIR EDWARD BELCHER. C.B. CHAPTER 1. Return of Osborii.— An-iviil ol' Dcspatclies.— Fate of l^dlot.— .state- ment of Survivors.— No account of Western Division.— The ' Hrea- tlalbane' nipped. -Departure of the ' Piia>nix.'— Preparations for liousing.— Arrival of SlioUahwu-.— Departure of Rieanls.— Ventihi- tion.— Esquimaux Huts.— Winterl'ittinjij.s.— Air-punii)s.— Hospital Ship. — Thermometers. — Rupture of lee. — Loose lee. Sppfem6erlo.~Yi^E; temperature 17°, with sliarp west- erly wind ; the outer ice in motion down channel, but om- icemen report large lanes of water can be traced outside of them. At nine p.m. the ' Pioneer' was secured, but too near. On the 17th, ISth, and 19th, officers were sent in ad- vance, to relieve the return-sledge, und(«r Lieuteiiant Os- born. Eventually Lieutenant Cheyne, with a sledge- crew of seven men and seven days' provision, was directed to advance two days, and tliore deposit two days', to remain until the fourth day, and then retreat for further instructions to Cape Osborii, Had he not then appeared, I intended to scud Coiiiuiander Richards VOL. II. Q 2 RETURN or LIEUTENANT osuoRN. \ September, with tlie ice-boat before rejected. I had not quite de- terinined I would not take her myself, and, if I had not lent my own crew for the service, most certainly would have done so. This left me very uneasy and uidiappy,— all confidence at an end ; not at all satisfied that if the ice should part from the shore, a sledge can get along the land ; Mr. M'Cormick says not, decidedly. This dif- ficulty of abstracting eighteen men from our force is really alarming ; better not undertake such service until we have a lower temperature ! Septenther 21.— Mr. Allard reports this evening that he had proceeded so far in advance, that Mr. Cheyne's sledge was beneath him, but not within sound of his voice ; that he commanded the range southerly, but no traces for six miles at least. September 22.— Under this impression I felt it un- necessary to push my advance officer to a lengthened march today. Preparation was made to forward the ice- boat, commanded probably by Commander Richards; but about 3.30, much to the astonishment of every one, Mr. Herbert's signal, at the advance look-out, intimated the approach of the party, and in a short time the sledges were in sight from the ship: opinions varied,— some deemed the period short. The time however warranted the journey having been made ; the distance done was trifling. Telescopes tell strange tales, and it was soon evi- dent that despatches had arrived, part of which the lead- ing officers. Lieutenant Osborn and Mr. Herbert, carried. Shortly after. Lieutenant Osborn announced three im- portant events :— the arrival of Her Majesty's steamer • Phoenix,' Commander Inglefield ; the total loss of the 1853.] FATE OF LIEUTKNANT BELLOT. 3 'Breadalbaiie' transport; and the melancholy death of Monsieur Bellot, Lieutenant de Vaisseau, in his attempt to reach me with the mails, all of which had been fortu- nately rescued. The two last unfortunate facts solved all the doubts as to the Halkett's boat and pieces of wreck found near us. The ' Brcadalbane' had been nipped, ard in a few mmutes was nowhere to be seen ; yet portions of her boats and wreck had been traced thus far, even since the 21st of August,— a drift of fifty-six miles ! The fate of Bellot,-admired by all, the untiring sup- porter of Kennedy, a volunteer again with Commander Inglefield, and the intrepid adventurer in this case to carry our despatches even up to Cape Hogarth,— cut off, not by any immediate disaster common to his crew nor even in their sight, but had slipped down between the hunnnocks and was no more seen ! a most mysterious mcomprehensible death ! He had been substituted for Commander PuUen, whose duties (Commander Inglefield having started before his arrival, to seek us by the west^ ern shore) required his presence on the spot. The boat (Halkett's) was provided by the ' Phccnix.' This melan- choly event occurred on the ISth of August, at the same moment that we were also in jeopardy. It appears, from the very incoherent statements of the men who accompanied Lieutenant IBcUot, that near Cape Grinnell the ice exhibited a heavy crack, opening rapidly, and they were engaged conveying the contents of the sledge to the shore by means of Halkett's boat, when having secured all but the sledge, the ice drifted off! Lieutenant Bellot desiring them " to let go the line.'' n 2 T 4 STATEMENT or SURVIVORS. [Soptcmder, Two men, William Johnson, Ah., and David Hook, were then with Lieutenant Beilot on the detached piece of ice. Johnson gives a most incoherent tale, — loses sight suddenly of Lieutenant Beilot, and supposes him to be drowned between the o})ening of the floe, — sees his stick, and shouts out for him by name. He then states, that he traversed spaces amounting to ninetif miles (thirty to Cape de Haven, thirty to Cape Hogarth, and thirty back,) in no time, and yet, b^ the watch of Monsieur Bel- lot, at eight p.m. on the 18th they were adrift ; at night, on the IDth, rejoin their companions, a march ahead ! On the other hand, the evidence of the boatswain's mate differs widely : he was on shore, not included in the ca- tastrophe, Avliich might have affected the minds of the two blown off; he was therefore in a better condition to see, to judge, and to rejjort tr/ilt/, and dates and facts confirm his evidence. By his account, he watched for them six hours ; he then travels to Cape Bowdcn, for which I will allow six hoius more, and then suddenly finds them advancing on land and almost within hail ! ! Now, it must be remembered that the misfortune oc- curred on the evening of the IStli of August, about eight P.M. by Monsieur Bellot's watch, and yet, on the niglit of the 19th, the parlij had reassembled, after a jjretty fair land travel (irrespective of the absurd history of ice work at Cape Bowden). But what appears still more incomprehensible to my mind is, two of the most dis- tressed of the party were left behind by their companions to die, starve, or for what purpose is not incHcated, and these reach the * North Star' on the 21st, where tlieir statement is takci. 1 -' i 1853.] NO ACCOUNT 0|.' WESTEHX DIVISION. 5. Tli(> re(ri|)t of (lcs|)atclics, private lottci-s, newspapers, etc., ocenpial us dosdy until long after midniglit, and aliorded, for some days, matter for serious thought. That most pi-essing and most im])oitant, was the entire dearth of information respecting the Western Division, and, from hII the information brought to me, there was neithe- an uulieation, nor any hope, of open water in the direction of Harrow Strait; however, we arc now too well aware, even from heights greater than that of Jieechey Island', that water sufficiently open for navigation may pass to- tally unperceived at ten miles to the southward of the islaud ; and, looking to probabilities, it is just possible that the very cause which pressed the pack to us in this dnvction {vk. the gale of the 18th of August) would have left open water to the other vessels, by skirting Leopold inland and sticking to the southern shores o°f Lancaster Sound, by which Sir Edward Parry, Sir James lloss, and others, have easily efFcctc^d their passages as late as September. Indeed this is the only reasonable chance at a late season, as the n.ain current sweeps along that coast with great force, driving Sir James Ross, I nil mformed, forty miles to windward during a strong gale ! Even if the 'Resolute' did not proceed, I think it^o- bable that Commander M'Clintock, with the Intrepid,' and having on board the crew of 'Investigator,' would naturally cling to that shore, and, finding access to Bee- chey Island injpossible, move on to England. Such in- deed would be my wish; but this I do not now think probable, as Commander Inglefield found the entire Strait impeded by ice, and, from the effect of south-east gales on the ice, driven from Prince Regent Inlet, it 6 TiiK 'breadalbane' NIPPED. [September, would of necessity, after pressing on Beechey Island and closn.g this channel completely, bar entirely any exit from JJarrow Strait, It is also clear to my mind that the drift np this channel must have been unimpeded, from the undeniable evidence afforded by tlu; pieces of the 'Breadalbane' found in this neighbourhood. The history of the loss of the 'Breadalbane' has al- ready made its appearance in the official despatches, but It may not prove uninteresting '•ere to record the event and dates. Early on Sunday morning, the 21st of August, a little after four, the first warning of "nip" was noticed on board the ' Breadalbane,' by the groaning of beams, creaking of bulkheads, etc., which drove the crew on the ico in rather unprepared garb. No time was affbrdcd to save anything. In about fifteen minutes tlie vessel was destroyed, much to the astonishment even of the spectators from the 'Phoenix,' who came to render as- sistance. The ' Pha3nix' herself had rather a severe nip, and wiU have their talc to tell, if they reach England safely. I am happy to say, that the most important of her stores were saved; but her coal, landed on such a dangerous, and to us inaccessible, station as Cape Riley, may never be available ! If we have such a season as that experienced in August, 1S52, it may be possible to remo^fe it, but that is too much to expect. On the 24th the 'Phoenix,' having seen more perhaps than was agreeable of this "yachting cUmater departed for England, taking, unfortunately, but a very summary account of our motions; and I fear, from where Com- mander PuUen last saw us and oiu- unaccountable ab- 1853.J THE 'rjlUJNlx' UEPARTS. seiice, slie will convey but gloomj intelligence of both Divisions, particularly as Commander Inglcficld, by his letter to me, seemed to have imliibed some unfounded notion of my intention to return to England this season. Their Lordships however will clearly perceive, from the despatches, that no such idea ever entered the minds of Captain Kellett or myself. The ' North Star' exchanged great part of her crew, obtaining nearly a new set of officers and men from the ' Phoenix ;' and the history of her adventures last season will doubtless be magnified into something grand and sublime, perhaps got up for amusement at one of the minor theatres, and frighten the loving wives of some of our married men. But it is indeed no matter for joke ; we have yet a dreary winter to go through, and, even if the 'Breadalbane's' fate does not befall us, it is not im- probable may have to abandon our vessels, and seek re- fuge at Beechey Island. It is much to be regretted that niongst all the proposals so plentifully showered on the Admiralty for the benefit of this Expedition, no one thought of proposing a house — not even Commander Pullen— by the ' Isabel,' last season. It nnist ere this have occurred to many in England, that before August next there may be many collected at Beechey Island who may require shelter, and that the same or a worse acci- dent than that to the ' Breadalbaue' may again visit the ' North Star,' or indeed every vessel of this Squadron ! September 24. — Here we remain. Every hour con- vinces me that screw steamers alone, not sailing vessels, should be employed on this service. Had we been pos- sessed of adequate moving power, this Division would, in 8 iMiiii'AHATioNs FOR iiousiNd. [ fccliiifj, whici, intcriinlly informed mo I wus K-mifi; I bocanio vory lunous, irntal)lo, und oxcitublo; o])|)osition .seldom cures such comphiints. A' every turn of tide our safety iiuiiimocks were di»tiiri)cd, and tlic vibration touched a corresponding chord in my wakeful disposition. On the other hand, I was also anxious to complete, at the earliest prudent moment, before whiter became in- conveniently obnoxious, my intended scheme of render- ing the shij) warmer and more comfortable than last season ; but this could not be effected until the homing icm Jinalli/ ,srr/,rt'is service requires some- thing more than a seaman's head. These vessels were or- dered by the Admiralty to be fitted witli air-tight sections; but this was not satisfactorily, or truscworthily, executed; indeed the steamers were not close ceiled ; however, had I known all the requirements before I left Enghnul, I could easily, with our own resources iilonc, have remedied them Most certainly I would have hatched, instead of decked, the hold-beams ; I would have made preparation beneath for placing the hatches during winter on the level with the Sylvester apparatus, and thus ensured a space sufficient for the escape of noxious air and damp from the lungs. These fittings would have strengthened the ship consideral)ly at the expected position of nip. The great evil we are infested with— the innncdiate con- densation of the breath on the beams— would thus be obviated. On this true lower deck I would have shifted the range or cooking galley during winter, which, in addition to the 16 WINTER FITTINGS. [ Octohcr, direct heat of the Sylvester, would tend to preserve a more equable and genial temperature. Thes(! two great fires at the lower level would, it is manifest, materially purify the air from the hold upwards ; and their funnels should be so constructed as to carry off, by outer casings, all superabundant heat to the upper condensers, and thence horizontally, within six feet of the deck at the hatchway ; but manifestly, not perpendicularly/, and ex- posed to intense cold, such perhaps as would not allow vapour to ascend ! By such an adaptation we should obtain full and healthy play for the lungs, and then even a colder, but dry, atmosphere would not perhaps be ob- jcctionable. But as at present or hitherto arranged, the heat de- rived from the expenditure is contemptible. Let the scientific reader picture to himself the radiation from the galley fire impeded by a tinned bulkhead or casing to the fore-companion, distant but three feet and a half from the fire ; further, that a constant volume of cold air rushes down this companion, condensing in visible clouds as it passes to the sides,— not a very pleasant position either for the unfortunates of the mess which is exposed to the blast from that door, which, on deck, is merely shielded by a tilt awning, old, threadbare, of last cruise, and this frecpieutly left o])en for ventilation ! Also no radiation, and the steam arising from cooking, strugHinfr to escape by various channels, condensing in cavern-like drippings from the beams. At present all this is de- molished, and tliat liatcliway .sealed! (jic radiation now reaches where it sho-.ld, and is sensibly felt by the messes on each side ; but the steam, where lias it "one ? 1853.] VAPOUR (ONDENSF.K. 17 Above this galle;. and iinincdiatcly over the fire an opening has been cut, furnished witli a liinged hateh, serving as a valve and affor(Hiig a vertical ascent to the steam ; but this steam escapes into a fitted steam-chest including the funnel, which has an outer casing also, to aid the direct escape from the fore part of the coppers : this steam-chest occupies a space of seven feet square. Thus far one great evil is remedied ; that is nn fail u ■ compli. I now proceed to what would have been my arrange- ment had all these matters been duly reported on by our predecessors. I blame them not,— they are not engineers ; it has not been with them, as with me, a kind of hobby! But one most important consideration, involving the safety and comfort of ship and crew, would have been adequately prepared before leaving port, and the housing become eventually but a very minor consideration. I think I hear some of the old Arctics exclaim. What will he be at next ? But patience, my friends. Cold, I have asserted, descends vertically, in prefer- ence, and it your chimney has not been provided to meet this, you must expect it to tund)Ie into your fire and ne- gative its value. AVlio ever dreams of entering his house by the chinmey? yet we sailors undoubtedly pursue this most absurd principle in this very oppressive cli- mate. This must be remedied ; we cannot conveniently cut an entering port in the side, but, if requisite, it might be done, at great inconvenience, in the bow or stern : however, the evil is to be remedied, and I trust, even with our slender means, to effect it (when it can be completed) in such a manner that the ship may even VOL. II. lb DITK U'ASimOUSK. {^October, be irorkcd a I scii with Ium' ncnv fittings, which I consider indispcnsribk', when pvopcrly complete. T liave, ill the first instance, closed all the hatchways l)ut the main and my companion hatch, which will also be secured. Between the fore and mainmasts, at the height of our skid-beams (seven feet), one compact house, covered in at the roof, is complete, — battened, caulked, and will be canvas-covered. Over t!ie main hatcl way, i-eceiving the vertical heat of Sylvester's stove, is a square cabin (which includes the chain holes), seven feet in width, and adaptt'd with a door, closing by weight and pulley. The entrance door is on the starboard side, some yards before this, and an additional canvas screen inter- venes, thus breaking any cold air which mi" lit otherwise enter. Overhead, the vapour hatch in the awning re- mains, in order to facilitate the escape of the vapour from beneath the awning, but its hatch prevents the ver- tical descent of cold air. The fore steam-chest, including the great galley valve or space between the funnel and main hatchway, and forming a couunodious cabin, now furnishes the seamen's washhousc; and here they can per- form this very important operation well and without fear and trembling, and other evils of which I shall presently have to speak. All vapour here arising from hot water is carried off. I thus obtain three innnense condensers of the vapour arising from the main hatchway, and any air passing down will be very nuich deprived of its killing cold virtues before it meets the warm ascendiufj current. That no air inca])able of cond)Ustion may flow down to the Sylvester, the })ipe is contained within this after- cabin, and warms its air l)el'ore it descends from a hii>"her level, cut oil' from the vapour by the canvas lining. 1853.] PREVIOUS ARWANtiEMKNTS CONTRASTED. 19 I must now revert to the practice of last year, to which I sutmittcd, bccniise " it was so before," for f|uiet's sake. Will any one credit tliat I \vas so simple ? Read and judge. The washhouse was on the shore, distant about two hundred yards. Here the consumption of fuel was lost, as it did not aid in heating tlie ship : it was cold and comfortless. It was quite impossible that the clothes could be properly washed and wrung : they were brought on board frozen. Wliere were they sent to be dried? Thus charged with ice and nioistm-e, they were sent to the main hold, to be dried by the aid of the Sylvester. The main hatchway being closed, where did the vapour es- cape? To the lower deck. Again : the officers and men bathed in warm water ; all this was also diiTused, and no vent ! The main hatchway at present, owing to the rarefied state of the atmosphere, enables this vapour to escape. It was remarked during last winter that the wettest place in the ship was around the mainmast : the water ran down upon the chronometers ! Why ? Be- cause the after-companion, alternately open and shut, threw down such volumes of cold air, condensing these warm vapours, seeking the nearest escape, that of neces- sity nothing but wet could result. In the present condition of the Sylvester, at the keel, aided by the warm current of air ascending, I hope to maintain, throughout the winter, a tcmjjcrature not under + 32°, or the freezing-point : at all events, never as low as 32° to 02° minm. The nir, before it enii descend, will be of n temperature better adapted to support combus- tion and maintain a high temperature, simply on the V 2 i I 9 20 ATR-l'UMPS HEQUIWKl). [ Ociobcr, ])rinciplc of the use of hot air, not very long introduced (within my own rccolleetioii) into the blast fnrnaees. One thing nnist be evident, viz. that in the same proportion as the eombustion is hicreased at the keel, so must the foul air be consumed, the vessel dried, and the ascending warm current maintained ; all acting with unerring cer- tainty, to produce the greatest degree of actual circulation of air, so nuich to be desired. Before leaving England I applied to have the pum})s fitted expressly for air- pumps, in order to draw off daily all the foul air from the limbers. The order was given by the Admiralty ; but difficulties etpial to refusal were started, and so dis- heartening, as to prevent further i)rosccution of the plan. However, I caused Downton's j)unips to be worked daily for this object, and 1 am satisfied that they materially assisted my views. Of the after-part of the ship I v»ill now explain, that the Observatory, not being required, by reason of the uncertainty of our connuunication with the shore, was, to prevent its destruction, put up complete, so as to include the after-companion leading to my cabin, with the door at its after-end, so that no cold air could pass by these doors, oue being closely shut before the other could be approached. This position was one of the miserable de- f"cts of last season ; cverythhig around the mizenmast froze ; the after guu-rcom bulkhead, forming one side, was constantly coated with \c(\ and the temperature of my cabin could not be maintained, falling at night as low^ as -|-1S°. All this has already been obviated, and tliis previously ic(vbound passage is now n-ai'm. I am (piite satisfied that this could have been completely fitted 1853.] 'nONKEu' PITTKI) AS AN IIOSI'ITA].. 21 in England, and that tin; sliip could liave Ixvn safely navigated here and back, if necessity re(|uired, aulhont its rcmoml; indeed, I would retain the entire framework, as not at all inconveniencing the deck stowage. But still further to preserve on the upper deck a plea- santer promenade, and to tak(> off the sharpness of ad- nntted air, T propose to form a level ceiling overhead by the inverted boats and old canvas i over this, the housing; and beneath all, when grim winter is unmistakably esta' blished, the further protection of all the spare sails, form- mg also, laterally, an inner curtain, thus producing mio- ther artificial deck, l t a temperature some degrees highei' than in its ordinary exposed state. But all this would 1)0 inefficient, if the entrance was left accessible to any mtrusive breeze. Our entree is therefore quasi-Esqui- maux, by a portico from the floe, having the ascent lead- ing forward to a landing below the gunwale, previously fitted for our accommodation ladder. This leads, by u rectangular inner porch, to the gunwale, thence descend- ing to the deck, where mats will be spread, instead of the one foot of snow and grav(>l of last season, to preserve warmth and dryness, and prevent the slumbers of those who can connnand pleasant dreams from being disturbed by the drum-like sound of every constitutional pacer ol" the icy deck. No trouble will be spared; but until we are safe, the greater part of these measures cannot be eoraplctcd. The sick, who during the last season were subject to all the inconveniences I have stated, have now been re- moved to the midship section of the ' I'ioneer,' where greater height, a i)owerful Hrodie's stove, and detaching 22 POSITION OF TIlEiniOMKTERS. \Octohe)\ them from tlic innin body of the crew, will, should this second \i'intcr produce more serious cases, afford an im- mediate and available hospital. Tip to this date, but four of the crews, amounting to ninety-one men and officers, have been considered objects for removal ; but several cases of severe catarrhal fever, resulting probably from the first efFect« rf condensation between decks, have occurred ; but evidently selecting those predisposed, par- ticularly among the crew of the ' Pioneer.' Today the thermometers have been placed under the small boat, inverted and suspended to our driver boom, affording a free current of air through them, at fou^ feet above the floe edge. These are registered at the hours of eight A.M., noon, and four p.m., — the standard spirit and mhiimum every two hours. October 10. — The day proved beautiful; calm, sun bril- liant, and temperature 1 5°. I had become very fidgety about our return sledge, as well as the non-appearance of Commander PuUen, accompanied also by a strange, op- pressive, unaccountable feeling. Ascending the hill above us about four p.m., I noticed a suspicious dark streak on the distant floe, apparently, to my comprehension, a lane of blue Mater ; but the Ice Quartermaster declaring it to be mere fog, I was relieved from anxiety, and as it indicated nothing which demanded further investigation, it passed unnoticed — hut not foi //of fen. About ten p.m. the breeze freshened considerably, and before gohig be- low for the night, I jocosely desired the officer of the watch to " Call me, if the ice parts at the bow, and take care that the 'Pioneer' (the wind Ixing aft, and her bow- sprit pohiting over our boaiii, not many yards distant) 18 53. J .U.AHMlN(i llUI'TURi; Ol' Hi:. 2:\ does not run foul of the sliip." Little did I diviiui ol the inmiodiato prospect of miy .such danger; liiil uuniv similar random observations have hern treasured up, am! if hnrning for sorcery b(^ still a h.'gal sentence, 1 may hi*, come a victim ! Hardly had I reconciled myself to my bed, wni'n the ollicer re[)orted, " the ici; has broken off within a few yards of the bow, and is going oti' rai)idly." I was at that moment thinking of our (hingerous state, with the lionsing over and not secured, boats stowed, and too many jn'ovisions on deck, choking access to tlie hawsehok's, no cables bent, and every diance of a cap- size. I certainly was in no mood to turn out and re- dress myself again on such a night, and go through all the necessary preparations for safety : however, not a moment was to be lost. 1 was soon on deck, but not without ditticulty and nnicli tardiness could I get tlu; hands up to bend cables. Few could credit the reality of our predicament ! For four hours, anxious hours, were they engaged clearing the provisions away from the bows, and securing them abaft. At two the cables were bent, the wind had shifted to south-.south-east, and bhnv in hard s(jualls otl' the land ; we were sealed in iee about a foot and more in thickness, and moreover were secured by hawsers to the gro> ded ice within shore; considering her safe for the present, I allowed the nu'U to rest by watches, imtil day- light, when provisions and every available weight were struck below, to give her stability ; the fore-part of the housing was directed to be furled, and the ends drawn down, to prevent the wind gi'tting under. 'I'lie topmasts and lower yards were struck, tuid every |)reeauti()n adopt- i ir 24 ClUTICAL rONDITION. [ October, J I'd, whicli the prevention of confusion or oin* limited force eniiMed us to " do well." Tlie awnings could not luivc been removed without our entire forc(^ ; and calculating on their present smooth and inclined surfaces, I consi- dered that the wind would have infinitely greater force on the une(|ual surfaces of boats and other objects ex- posed to its action. 1 therefore determined to keep that close, to prevent any higress of wind, and I m\i(;h re- gretted having disturbed the bow housing, for the dilli- culty and (;onfusion it created was manifest. Power was to be husbanded ; it reijuired too many men. If the ship broke out before the deck load was stowed below, 1 nuist confess that I feared the result ! Axes as well as saws were in readiness to fell the masts : but tliey were of teak. Few of those who possibly may read this (if it ever reaches ?) will conceive that anything selected to carry a pendant and to encounter Polar navigation could be so imseaworthy ; yet just at this moment the croakers in- formed us that "her former skipper came down to Wool- wich, to see her turn the turtle," and that he was nearly gratitied ; but we had embarked fifteen tons of ballast at w inter-([uartcrs, had on board twenty-eight tons of water and forty-six tons of coal, all stowed low, together with stores and provisions for two years ! Yet her situation, even thus prepared, was one of extreme doubt and dan- I cannot really say 1 felt so sure of the latter ex- gor pression ; if the anchors held and she rode fairly, head to wind, there was no danger, so long as they availed us I If driven from them into the pack, why then we nuist take our chance. In this eo)idition, with our hatches 1858. UNCEUTAINTY OF WINTER. or. buttoned down, vvc awnited the result. Surrounded by all these tln-eatcning (lang(«rs,our thoughts were still on the bright side, and we derived some comfort from the ])ro- bability of oin- im])roved condition, should the ice again form, and leave \is a smooth surface for spring travelling. Varry (Third Voyage, p. 1 7) observes of bay ice :— " Srptrwfjcr S), 1821.— This i)lienomenon, to the extent to which it occurred, was to uie a new one, and there can be no doubt that, had the temperature continued low for two or three days together, while the sea was thus covered, a sheet of ice would have been formed, too solid to have again dissolved the same season ; it was impossible therefore not to apprehend, iit times, that a contuiuance of weather so unseasonable might expose us to the uni)leasant dilemma of being frozen up during a winter in the middle of Baffin's Bay." At any close harbour, even at our late winter-quarters on the ISth August, 1852, and later, at Port Refuge, in August, 1853, this reasoning might hold; but where tides, winds, or currents prevail, there is no need of the sun, or even of watej* of high temperature, to remove the thick bay ice : wherever the wind can act on water, and the tide-ripple obtain play and find the slightest crack, it is astonishing how greedily the former seizes the advan- tage, rips up the ice, weather as well as lee, and cause its almost magical disappearance. That high temperatures are indeed onr enemies, and not to be despised, we have but too good reason to be assured ; but until the general surface of these Straits, or even of Baffin's Wwy, ceases to olt'er any open water, any spaces for ice to morv in, or weak points on which .'S i^ {' i; 2« ICE Dl'lFTS rilOM THE 81111'. \_bctu/jcr, the brct'ze cnii impel tlie great surface of ice, miles in extent, to press, nip, buckle, or yield, the wind will do its work, and that fearfully. That no tenipei'atiu'i's or late dates can he reckoned on to free one from this lia- bility, we have but too nuieh reason to be convinced. We were almost harbomed and locked by berj^-pieces* aground, with the following sufficiently low tempera- tures:— September 9th, ^T)"; 18th, 00°; 3(Hh, Tjlf; 28th, 10°; October 7th, -0()°; 1 1th, +200°. The outer young bay ice had been accunnilating, forming, as we deemed, a complete sea-guard, and this ranged between ten and fifteen feet in thickness at sixty yards from our bow. The bay ice under oiu* .stern, averaging nine inches, was apj)arcntly blocked securely within by the great masses gro\mded outside in six fathoms : w ho, under such circumstances, would have a suspicion of danger? Till! wind, at south-east, rajjidly increased in strength directly off' the land astern, which, ascending by terraces, attained an elevation of about three hundred feel in a mile, or possibly, from the nearest beach, about one hun- dred feet in one hundred yards. There was no direct acting power ou the weather ice but the wind and rever- beratory wave. Little did A\e dream of treachery from w ithin ! But surely, though gently, did this latter subtle and oscillatory ])owc!r take advantage of every crack which the gai)ing of the great oi)eiiiiig from nortli to south, or parallel to our beach, now enabled it to eiitt'r, causing sutlicient swell to set tlu' whole floe in uiuliila- tory motion. Mass l)y mass freed it.self, and, grinding * Ndt lili'rallv W'vs, Imi ice ai:i(niii(l in six iiilimm-. 1858.] nUTir'AL MOMENT. 27 iigaiiist cuch otlicv, drifted iiway, Icnvinpr our vossi-ls luU horiiif? to the hmv cdp;!! of tlu; in-sliorc l)ny ire; still we tliought tlint our stern hawsers, secured to heavy masses of groiuuU'd ice, would retain lier. Hut no ! tlie signal for desertion was followed too closely; piece by piice dropped from us, like blood from our veins, leaving us, waterborne, afloat ! Even the grounded pieces followed the exani])le, denuding the siu'face, even to the very beach ! All was confusion, and that considerably height- ened by a heavy snow-storm. Once more the ship was reduced to the seaman's care, and to trust to her ground tackle ; but until the loose ice left the bow clear, no anchor could reach the bottom ; the breeze shortly effected this, impelling the r'lip forward with such velo- city that it became doubtful, in such deej) water, whether the anchor could bite the loose, gravelly bottom. It bit, held, and now the crisis ! — she took her " trial lurch ;" it was dee}), and the men were nuich frightened ; the water came in about five seams within the water-ways, but I had witnessed the ' Samarang' go even further. That was enough for me ; I was satisHcd all was safe ! At that histant my thoughts reverted to our absent sledge, as well ns to the fate of poor Bellot. In such a gale, similar in eveiy feature, did that gallant Frenchman meet his fate! But to our position. Notwithstanding she rode to her cable, she did not "right" satisfactorily, but remained with a most inconvenient heel to starboard. I canriot say that I expected her total loss ; she was securely bat- tened down, and, doubtless, would have " riuhted," had she been relieved of her masts, etc.; but the lurch she f' ■; I'' > I \ 28 RIDING AMONGST LOOSE ICK. [Ocfodcf. took was so (loop as to cause all hands to rush to wind- ward, and some one was indiscreet enough to oj)en the weather cm-tains. I was soon there, and had them secured. All Averc soon reassured, and went to work cheerfully, completing various duties; it continued to blow hard, with heavy snow-drift, and our anxieties were freshened occasionally by huge pieces of drifting ice getting across our cable, grinding our sides, and threatening my friend Glaisher's nursery of thermometers, still suspended un- der the stern, and causing me infinite anxiety. For thirty-six tedious hours were wc retained in this state of suspense, with the additional uncomfortable re- ilection that any sudden shift of wind, bringing the main body of western ice down u^joii us before we could get our anchor, would send us high up on shore. The windlass levers, having bent, were inadequate to perform their duty properly, and we had none spare/ I f 29 CHAPTER II. iMoor iu-sliorc. — Open Water available. — ' Tioneer' prepared for ser- viee. — .[{etiiru of I'lillou.— Interpretation of Instruetions.- Tlioiiglits of abandoning ' Investigator.'— Limits of Travelling Season.— lie- turn of Grove. — Instnietions to Hieliards. — His I'roeeedings. De- posits Despatelies.— .Reaches the ' Hesolnte.'— A Bear and Buck shot.— Gutter in danger.— Returns to the ' Assistance.' About 4.15 a.m. on the 13th, it killed, and at six it had moderated sufficiently to get the boats out and make ftist our hawsers to our old berg-piece, which we found had retained its position, and from which, deeming our- selves protected from seaward by the barrier floe, we had too soon withdrawn our hawsers. Truly glad were we again of its unportant aid, and, lifting our anchor, we succeeded in recovering our old position l)y noon. Be- tween the remaining pieces which had withstood this gale, and up to the beach, all the bay ice had " cleared out." Very tempting docks were oftered, and, had they been rock, probably we should have availed om-selves of the chance ; but the crush, if they moved, was too foolish an experiment. Our anchors were now let go. Deter- mined to hold on by this shore so long as our means perniitted, and to prevent fm-ther mischief by driving in r^W mm 30 OPEN WATER AVAILABLE. [October, M shore, I considered that the only chance of saving vessel or crcv»' would be taking the ground as early as possible after any adverse movement drove us from our anchors. We therefore considered our outer anchor as in reality lost if the ship should be beached, and, under such cir- cumstances, no longer required ; but, if tho events of the spring should offer floatation and release, that it was well laid out, and beyon>l the chances of damage from floating ice. Here then wo secured ; anxiously praying for that intensity of cold which alone can render us securely frozen in or comfortable for the winter. What variable mortals we are, — at one moment yearning for warmth, at another for intense cold ! During our temporary detention alongside the great berg-piece, I had an opportunity, favoured by the beau- tifully transparent state of the water, of examining its base, and even to detect every article at the bottom which had fallen overboard. I now ascertained that it was a much more important mass than I had antici- pated; it formed an irregular pyramid, having a very broad base or flat pedestal, apparently well imbedded in the tough clay bottom, the depth on its seaward side af- fording six fathoms and its inner three. I therefore felt tl'.at I could now trust more confidently to its friendly offices in warding off any infringing floe or loose pack, at all events taking the worst before it molested us. At this period I contemplated, now the sea was open, making an nttemi)t to reach Union Bay, and, had the services of the ' Pioneer' been available, most certainly would have made the experiment, even against the chances of behig caught midway ; but, unfortimately, I 1853.] PIONEER PREPARED FOR SERVICE. 31 had given permission to unpack for the winter, and be- fore her machinery could be effective, affairs had assumed a different as]>oct. It was fortunate that I did not ; as upon a more mimitc inspection of the western ice, mani- festly in motion, I felt satisfied that it was still too close, and M-e should probably have been hampered within ten miles of our present })osition. Many concurrent reasons induced me to be in readi- ness to move, shoidd j\' ature again offer an escape ; and one perhajjs of those uppermost in iny mind was to prove how late and at what degree of low tem])eraturc steamers could act with effect. With such feelings I directed the 'Pioneer' "to prepare for service." Of course many observations were hazarded on the time required to complete such a duty; but these only proved, to my mind, the necessity of placing such questions beyond mere opinion, and thus afford me sure grounds on which to base any future orders. Eventually, after some little convorsation with the Chief Engineer (j\Ir. Har- wood), he considered that he could place his engines in action within sixteen working liom*s, and, much to his credit, within that interval, in so far as the machinery was concerned, she was reported efficient. About the same moment the light bay ice had recommenced form- ing ; but the breeze still kept open clear lanes of water, the temperature ranging between 19° and 22°, Octoljcr 13. — This evening, and whilst these matters were in progress, two persons were re})orted to be ad- vancing hy the beacli from the southward. Anxiously alive to any accident to our sledge parties, it natiu'allv produced a little excitement ; but this was of short du- ^w ■riB ■ewiwp mn ^mmmmmm \' 3i RI'.TURN OF l-'OMMANDEK PllLLEN. \Octobef, *'■■ 'I ;i; It r mtion, as it was soon made out that Commander Pullen was one, and a boat was sent to bring him on board. Commander PuUcn had been obstructed by water at a l)luff about six miles southerly, where he had left the sledge and remainder of the crew, bringing on one man. Lieutenant May was immediately despatched with the cutter, and before ten that evening the party was safe on board, havhig, as they termed it, " been reduced to lummcs for the last two days." This great hardship our poor fellows would most gladly have submitted to with- out a murmur; but those who had been revelling in mutton, salmon, and ducks, might reasonably fancy in- ferior food a deprivation. Evoni Commander Pullen we obtained satisfactory in- telligence of our sledges, having met them within two days' march of Beechey Island, and free from further ob- struction, should they prefer the land journey. Thus, in the course of a few hours, have we experienced three important causes for gratitude ! From the report liow- cvcr of Commander Pul'cn, it proved that he had expe- rienced a narrow escape, possibly from a shnilar fate to that of poor BcUot. He had incautiously taken to the floe, encamped, was caught by the gale, which levelled his tent during a snow-storm, and eventually had barely time to regain the land ice before it separated. These constant liabilities prove how imperative it becomes to provide bo.'^t- sledges or Ilalkett boats,* for service in au- tumn. The question is not what an officer may choose to risk in his own person, but what degree of confidence * These Halkett boats are invaluable on any service, but, it occurs to me, espcciallj- so I'or the couveyance of wouuiled, arms, anmuinition, f'tc, across streams. Ld^ 1853.] REFLECTIONS ON MOVING. 33 a Commander can entertain, and even of ultimate re- proach to be heaped cui him, should any fatal accident overtake a party despatched by his orders, unprepared. From the report of Connnander Pullen as to the state of the ice in the lower channc], and also of the danger- ous coast-line, on which the vessels might probably be nipped, between Cape Osborn and Beechey Island, even if they escaped nearer dangers, together with the opinion, that, should any such accident befall, no such shelter as was here oifered could be afforded, I determined at once that, unless driven by stress of weather, or by other causes over which I had no control, I would not risk the destruction of all by any blind movement.* Nor was it simply our immediate safety that was now to be consi- dered ; I was here the Commander-in-Chief of this dis- jointed Expedition, and the lives of all would be required at my hands. Of the Western Division I knew nothino- beyond the jeopardizing of sixty additional souls belong- ing to the • Investigator ;' indeed all might be in extreme difficulty or even exthict ! Upon our efficiency, as well as thai of the ' North Star,' — and last season had proved her insecurity,— all now depended ; caution therefore be- came imperatively necessary. Properly to comprehend my position, none but the Powers who sent me forth could understand ; next, the simple reading of my Instructions clearly indicates, that, by the advice of the Committee of October, 1851, (page 2, paragraph 4,) the safety of the crews was to be my mtdn consideration; page 5, paragraph 18, is to the same effect ; and the concluding matter reduces my final * Later events proved this decision to be correct. VOL. II. D W' 34 iNTKiUMnTATiox OF [NSTitrf'TioNS. [Oc/obcr, 0 4'U I,.: o})oratio]is lu tlic spring of 1854, supposing even that I am assisted by Nature. The new orders of this season rely on my judgment, — for what ? — :;ea/ in the prose- eution of eommon sense operations, but determination where it bears on the aljautlonmeiit of the Expedition, "unless ^0(1 see reason to think differently;" implying simply the powers accorded to me throughout. Stores indeed were sent to llccchcy Island, but for what end ? Not to prolong service here, but to place in depot t/ierc, for those who might arrive at Beechey Island, ourselves inel tided ! for to bring tlunn here, or to send them to aid the Western Division, required an express Expedition for this object and no other ! People in England forget to reason on this matter. Let it even be imagined that the ' Phoenix' and another vessel had been sent out complete, to replace part of my Squadron, what would have been the result? They could not have been moved beyond Beechey Island, and would have remained there idle, shut up at that position ! Upon the Gth paragraph of the latter Instructions it Avas my duty to act, and totally irrespective of the opi- nions of any officers but those around me and hiown to cxHst. Accordingly my views were discussed with Com- manders Richards and Pullen (the former next in senio- rity to Captain Kellett), and, without adverting to their special opinions, — which coincided with mine, or were even literally more decisive as to obedience to my orders to return, — I came to the conclusion that nothing like micertainty, or indecision, upon such important matters, would be deemed by those wlio selected me for com- mand as satisfactory. f f-t. ^r 'ifei 1853.] THOUGHTS about ' investigatou.' 35 In this matter I had to deal witli sul)jccts involved in doubt and intensely perj)lexing. Had it been possible for me to communicate in time last season, 1 should instantly have determined on the a1)andonnient ot the ' Investiga- tor;' indeed, primfcf J/, I hud reason to understand that it niKsf he. Doubtless my " Geographical" opponents in England scouted the idea ; but Her Majesty's Govern- ment had entrusted to my keeping the public interests, and I felt too well assured of the d(.'cision which they contemplated. I had for years looked this matter seri- ously in the face ; I had put very searching questions, in 1850, into the possibility of ice moving between Melville Island and Banks Lands, and, with perhaps too strong a conviction that it never would break up, unless by some extraordinary effort of nature, or possibly under an in- comprehensible season, came to tlie conclusion that extri- cation, without any hesitation, would have been my course, — that officers and crew would now be safely in England, and I should have received the thanks of their Lordships and the public. That no twenty men woiJd be fomid mad enough to volunteer, I felt confident ; indeed I should strongly suspect the saneness of those who might, unless indeed for bombast, knowhig it could never be carried out. But one object, in my mind, could warrant any such devotion, not to any proof of north-west passage, but to one infinitely more akin to the high, honourable, and philanthropic feeling of our profession, — the relief to, and extrication of, their missing Connnander-in-Chief, Cni)tain Collinson. But in none of the records can any such feeling be traced ; it is mere matter of endurance, ill order to solve the geographical (luestion. The altcr- j) i % 4 iifSa r: 3(5 «^' I H TKiniS Ol' ABANDONMKST. [OrfohPI\ iiiitivcs left woro, " If twenty iiicii voliuitccr to ri'inain with Cuiiinmiulor M'CIuiv, in the ' Invcstirriitor,' then all her roiniiining crew, together with tliat of the ' Uesohite' (excee(Hng thirty-eight men), were to be sent, lionie in the ' Intrepid ;' " bnt the hiteness of the season, the de- lay of carrying out sneli plans, must of necessity in sonui measure delay the ' Intrepid,' ordered to call at Becchcy Island, and where 1 had hoped our invalids would have been added, for two lives here were very precarious. On the other hand, if twenty men did not volunteer, then the entire crew of the ' Investigator' would abandon the vessel, and return in the 'Resolute' direct to Beechcy Island. Such were the contents of the connnnnications for- warded to me, and, whatever may have been the result, we were absolutely in the dark, and my decision for future action nmst be determined without reference to Captain Kellett. It was apparent, from the information brought by Counnander Pullen, that no chance of fur- ther information, although possible, was ut all probable this autunni : the ice, both easterly as well as westerly, had been completely stationary since the end of August. The probabilities of disaster, under this scanty infor- mation, were threefold. We had before us the disastroiis gale of the ISth of August, 18th of September, and also that recently experienced on the II th of October; and the further additional cause for disquietude, should Cap- tain Kellett have sent the 'Intrepid' forward alone, with scanty sui)ply for her increased crew. Other conside- rations also intruded, and matters, which find no })lace in the public despatches, left me not quite at ease : this .li 1853.] DETERMINE TO WITIIDUAW CHEWS. 87 principally regarded the 'Investigator;' the Ibnrth win- ter must tell deejjly on her debilitated crew, and, should they fail, who would be selected for the oi)probriuni ? As to our own condition, our thoughts scarce dwelt upon i^ but we could not help recurring to the pro- bable effect of the gales wc had experienced on our Western Division, and reflecting that the force is ge- nerally increased in more southern latitudes. On one point however we derived some little consolation, in the probable deflection, or break, upon the peculiar coasts between Melville and Beechey Islands, converting our south-eastern and most violent gales into a north-western in that region. Such indeed I perceive to be the fact during Connnander llichards's journey to the south-west : he experienced uncompromising gales from north-west, with few gleams of sunshine, whereas, in my own journey to the north-east, we were basking in the sun's rays and enjoying light southerly or easterly winds ; with this material dift'ercnce however, that he was murdering de- fenceless deer and musk-oxen, luxuriating hi the fat of the land, when we, but for the Queen's allo\vance, wx're comparatively starving. Under the before-mentioned difficulties, I had to decide on the means to be adopted for relief, as well as the enmriny obedience to the wishes of Government. As it w'ould be imprudent at tlu; present moment to nuikc arrangements which our own condition n)iglit de- range before the spring, I deemed it prudent to draw up the necessary instructions for Captain Kellett, and to appoint Connnander Pullen to proceed with them, after the receijjt of my final despatches, which would be IS \% U 14 3S MMIT Ol rilAVKLUNd SKASON. [Oc/o/jcr, forwarded to him in rcbruary or iMnrcli. Conimniidcr lliclinrds voluntetrrd, biu there was ample time before the period for starting arrivi^d, to determine upon tlie possibility of sparing an ofHcer of liis rank and of so much importance, sliould accident b(!fall me. Counnander PuUen was further instructed, should it be found practicable, to forward a party this season to Caj)c Ilothani, as well as Assistance Hay, where a (U'pot, containhig provisions for ninety men, had been esta- blished by Captain Kellett, and endeavour to obtain tidings of our missing vessels, or to aid any persons he might fall in with in reaching Becchey Island. The temperatmvs of October — even of November — are so much above those deemed fit for travelling, that we may, taking last year's tables as a guide, reckon upon — 5° to -|-~1° up to the 10th of November, and from the lUth until the end of the month principally + 18° to as low as —22°. The travelling temperature is deemed —30°, at least so the frost-eaters would wish us to believe : we see but little of their faces on the floe, unless well nuifHed up, even at zero. Under these considerations, the journey across and back, by the ' As- sistance' men, would occupy about ten days; but as most of the crew of the ' North Star' have been changed, arc now, untried, and not to be compared to our ])icked men, I consider that double that period is yet available. The duties which now recpiire our consideration in- volve the security of all vnlnable instruments and docu- licm safelv at Bcecht .^positnu -y The sledge parties detached fi'om hence in the spi'ing will 111- fhiU'ged with one iJOilion of this duty, taking il l' 1853. ( ONTliMVLATKI) HK.LIKl'. JVJ witli thorn a heavy load of ship's hooks, logs, piivale jour- nals, iiistninicnts, etc., and after dno rest and prepara- tion at the ' North Star,' will eventnally be told otl' for our new and exeiting search westerly. Thus far uulced the supplies saved from the ' Brcadalbane' become of considerable importance, as many of the most important necessaries for travel, including fuel, etc., have been en- tirely expendcil in the o})crations of last season. Under our contemplated duties of laying out depots, it is more than probable that it will involve the necessity of extending them even as far as INlelville Island, ami that a second Division will follow uj) another search on the southern shores, where Captain Collinson's j)ai'ties have also to be sought, and supplies for their sustenance deposited. The entire distance between Melvilb and Beechey Is- lands, we are now aware, has been travelled by Mr. Roche, attended by invalids, in twenty-two days ; but as west- erly winds prevaU, and offer nnich greater impediment, particularly in jNIareli, it w ill be necessary to allow thirty as the shortest under the then very low temperatures. In accordance with one article of the late Instructions I had fully determined that one vessel should be left near Assistance Bay and at Cape Capel, slioiUd it be found practicable. My calculations would enable me to throw across, by our entire force, about 2500 rations, — and should the water oi)en early and release the ' Pio- neer,' possibly about 2500 more in July, leaving about 5000 rations, or tbree months' for sixty men. These, in- cluding the depots left by Captain Kcllett in his advance in the autunm of 1852, would, if no intelligence had Pi ■ \'i iiilfii '^S! I> * 40 DEI'/VHTUHK OF COMMANDKIl I'lJI.LI'.N. [Octu/tcr, h w ) l! f I' 'I I ' t l.\ l :■! been received relative! to (^aptiiiii C'ollinson, fairly provide for liis retreat upon Heecliey Island, wliere a house, pos- sibly a ship aiul provisions, woidd sustain him until fur- ther relief would he forwarded. In all these o])erations I felt quite assured, from the tenor of my late despatches, that further assistance would reach Beechey Island Ijcfore the end of July next, and by those vessels I fully expect cither hitelligence of the safety of Captain Collinson, or full instructions for my guidance, with reference to his ultimate safety. All these matters had been fully discussed, conmiitted to paper, and read over to Conunanders Richards and Pullen ; the most in>[)ortant |)ai)ers and journals were forwarded, and should accident occur to us, Conunander Pullen was fully instructed as to his duties. Ovluher 17. — About two p.m., accompanied by Mr. Loncy in the ' Hamilton,' to aid him in his journey round the water-washed points, who would also escort back our own sledge, he took his departure under a tem- perature of 22°; the ice still very tender, occasionally breaking, but admitting of repeated journeys with light loads only to the shore. As our depot at Cape Bowden, near to the position where poor Bellot met his fate, was su])posed to be stale or injured by open weather, ten days' additional provision was forwarded to make good that station. This event, nearly the closing act of the season, caused no little excitement, for to some of the gloomy anticipa- toi's of disaster, " the last letters" seemed to indicate a belief that our next piu'pose would be to seek relief at the ' N<»iih J^tar.' Tuder such feehngs, jauntily as the 'Stars' ■I 'K ^i^ lft53.] RKTtJHN Ol' MR. fiUOVK. 41 parti'd, under "tlic ciistomiiry honours," on their southern mnreh, tliere were many of our party to be noticed, loi- teriuf^ with a varant gaze, a hist wave of the glove, and possibly a frozen pearl to set the eyelash in motion. (Ho/jcr 20. — Shortly before noon the 'Dauntless' banner announced tlie advunce of Mr. Grove, one of the most cheerful and light-hearted of our party, and l)efore night I had the gratification of fei'ling that all my otiiccrs and crew were again collected, and comfortably housed. This was our final chance, my last ho[)e for the season of any comnmnication from the Wi'stern Division. If accident should have arrested one, both, or all three of the vessels near Cape Ilotliam, it was some consolation to know that they would find there a b()ut, should water be available, to aid in their journey to Beechcy Island. Our minds have been so much engrossed by startling and active events, that the present pause affords me the first available opening to refer to the contents of Com- mander Richards's proceedings, from which I have ex- tracted the following. In order to understand the nature of the orders under which Commander Richai'ds proceeded, I consider it ex- pedient to give them the precedence. OllDKUS Hi/ Kdwaki) Helciieh, Kt., C.B., Caplaut of II.M.S. AsmUiuco, and in Coiiimand of the Arctic Sijuadmt. 1. Wliereas it is expedient that a special exaniiiiatioii of the south- western shores of this fjreat opening into tiie Pohu* Sea should be niadt; l)y sledfjes during the present season, — and having every coufidenee in your ability and zeal to carry out tiiis important nu'asure, — and further, Ijieuteiiant Osborn, coinnuuuling 1 ler Majesty's steani-tcudcr ' I'ioiucr,' liaviiig in tlie handsomest numner, ami with his customary zeal, voluu- Iccrcd to -uiiporl you in this arduous duty : i 42 ORDERS TO COMMANDER RICHARDS \Odohei', \ '■» 2. You are berchy directed to take under your command the under- mentioned sledi^c crews, and, accompanied by ]jicutcnant Osborn, pro- ceed, tld the depot already established at Cape Lady Franklin, to vigo- rously search the points in succession towards the position agreed ni)on with vaptain k'clk'tt as the Kendezvous of 1853, viz. lat. 77° O' N., long. 10"/^ W., or thv- nearest coast thereto, where I I'ldly anticipate you will precede that party. 3. This duty effected, you will deliver to any officer whom you nuiy chance to meet there, or deposit in cairn, in conformity with my General Order, tailing to meet any one, the despatches addressed to the secretary of th(! Ailmiralty, as well as those for Captain Kellett. 4. IVoceeding witli the run of th" land then in sight, 1 nuist trust to your own judgment in prosecuting tl great work of d r Ex])cditiou, viz. to search not only for our missing countiymen, but also for any traces of cairns, drift-wood, or other indication of the missing Expe- dition having entered this sea by the Wr'Uington Channel ; also, any traces of the ExpeiUtion under Caj)tains CoUinson and M'Clure. 5. You will bear in mind that unless the state of the ice should ren- der it probable that the sea hail at any period within ;hc last ten years been free from ice, and been in motion at the intrancv; of any bays, in- lets, or channels, that no valuable time should be expended in their ex- amination for the vessels. Yoxn* own judgment will point out any other chances of the crews having sought refuge there. G. If any o])portunity occurs, by sight of divergent objects, whicli may render it exijcdient to sejiarate, you will take the northernmost and westernmost, anil Lieutenant Osborn that to the routli-west, taking especial care that your llendczvous is so securely fixed and understood by both parties, that no possible mistake, misconception, or disappoint- ment to either jxirty shall accrue. 7. The general Instructions to the sledges which will escort and re- main by you for stated journeys are already clearly set forth ; you will therefore, as you detach them, countersign each order furnished to them, adding any further directions which your experience on the jour- ney may render expedient. 8. You have been fully provisioned for this important service; no thought or ca]uice has been forgotten : iiuleed, I feel that the minor matters of detail have rested w ithin your own pronnce. 9. Up to the ])eriod of detaching your last commissariat sledge you will insert your "state and condition" on the last detached orders of the officer eonnnaiuling tliat sledge, and you will of course exchange any nu'U that seem unid)le to hold out. il 1853.] NOT TO BK INTERFERED WITH. 43 10. In the pursuance of this duty 1 must urge on you the necessity of system, forethought, and precaution, which although probably un- necessary, is nevertheless one ])art of my duty. 11. Yon will yourself keep a strict tlaily journal of every occurrence, and cause the same to be done by every officer under your command ; the same to be delivered to me within a reasonable period after your return. 13. This Expedition is especially, in addition to that of the search after our countrymen, one of science ; and I need not remina you liow much its pursuit tends to sharjien the wits, as well as to wile awny many hours of otherwise sluggish indolence or sleep, when snow-storms, or low tcmperatiu-(!s, may confine you to your tents. 13. I do not expect from you siedge-loads of fossils, or whole car- cases of mastodon or megath<'rium ; but sketches, records, etc., will not much encumber your head, and some waistcoat-poekit specunens may serve to determine important desiderata in the iield of science. I will not say more ; perhaps I have said too much. " .V word to the wise is sufficient." 14. Should you meet with any officer superior to yourself you will of course show him these instructions ; Ijut he is hereby strictly forbid- den in any way to interfen! with your conniiand, route, or proceedings. 15. On the other hand, should you fall in witii any other your in- ferior in rank, you will inform him of your intended route, give him (if sent on the same) a divergent one, as the interest of the ser\-iee may point out, or instrui't him to seek and carry back the despatclies, should you already have deposited them.* This last (hity \ou will consider paramount to any other route, of whieli you will then be the best judge. l(i. It is needless for me to exhort you or Lieutenant Osborn to do auytliing but irlnrn srcurcli/, and witiiout aUowing your own high feel- iu"- to be the standard bv which those who labour under vou are to be ur'i-ed forward. It is the retro^i-aile uuivenunt whieii tells on the minds and feelings of all. 17. Trusting to your judgment, and to lliiu ^\h() watehcth over all, and with our sincere jirayers for success and sal'ety, 1 send you i'ortli on your noble mission, and Helieve nu', ( te., Kdwaiid Hl-I.CIIEK. f * It is I'urious tliat even this s^iiuuld ha\t so unun-lakably re.L -WUftiJa' ■ > ri l»: ^^ DETAIL OF PROCEEDINGS. [Octofjcr, With a sealed public letter, to be opened if anv superior shoiUd meet you, read, and exhiluted to him, but to l)e returned to lue unopened if no sucii cause for its use presents. — E. B. The extract from the official letter reporting procecd- ngs explained, as extracted in page 48, the general movements of Commander Richards in the search, and the cause for his deviation from Jiis original Instructions. Having now before me that part of his detail of the sledge operations necessary to explain his course, which mutt however be followed on the chart to be understood, I shall endeavour to condense the parts of most interest, using, where expedient, his own words, with the customarj mark of extract. " On the loth of April, with the thermometer at -4°, breeze favourable, the Division sailed from Nortluunber- land Sound. "On the IGth reached a group of islands fifteen miles Avest-north-west of Cape Lady Franklin, to which the temporary name of Deception Group was given. Here the first dep6t was secured, and the first auxiliary re- tm-ned to the ship (Mr. Grove, of 'Dauntless'). "On the 21st reached the western termhiation of this^ group, and on the 24tli reached Cai)e Fortune: it lies in latitude IQT 20' N., and longitude 103° 38' W. The second depot was placed on this Cape." On the 25th the ' Lady Franklin,' Dr. Lyall, rct,u-ned to the ship. These two were auxiliary sledges, and be- long to my Division. The others were commissariat, and on which the victualling of Commander Richards would de[)end until he proceeded alone. On Friday, the 2yth of April, he mvched the north- 1853.] DEPOSITS DESPATCHES AT HKXDEZVOUS. 45 east i)oini, of Byam Martin Chunncl, which in itself being the discovery and proof of its hcing open to the Queen's Channel, and further, api)roaching the nearest to any ac- cessible spot for the Rendezvous, was named Point Suc- cess. Here the despatches were deposited in lat. 7G° 32' N., and long. 105° 4' W., being twenty-eight miles south and four west of my assigned position, 130 miles from the ship, and little more than half the distance to where the ' Resolute' whitered. Here a depot was established, and the first commissariat sledge, Mr. Herbert, was di- rected to return to the ship. Crossing the Byam jVIartin Strait in very thick weather he reached and landed on the north-cast point of Mel- ville Island, on the Oth of May ; the position was deter- mined to be in lat. 70° N., and long. 106° 25' W., thus cutting off a large portion of Melville Island. Here the fourth depot and the light boat were deposited, and Lieutenant May, of the ' Reliance,' received instructions " to proceed to the Grand Depot at Cape Lady Franklin, revictual, deposit notice, and return with provisions to meet the requirements of the returning sledges, and ena- ble them to make further examination of the overlooked coast on their return." Proceeding north-wxsterly, skirting the northern coast of Melville Island, which does not extend beyond the parallel of 70° 48' 30" N., he passed the Bays of Promise and Plenty, having there noticed abundance of game. Cojnmander Richards no- ^tices that on the 11th of May "we find the night tra- velling very disagreeable yet ; it is certainly like going back a fortnight in the season, and it takes some time to reconcile the api)etite and rest to the change. It is ■I I II I IS ^v in MUSK OXKN AND DEEU KIJ,LEI). [Ocfober, absolutely necessary however, to prevent the snow blind- iiess, cold and cheerless as the nights are." It is rather a curious coincidence that I should have altered my time of travelling on the same day, but with vciy different result, and our temperature at that mo- mcnt five degrees lower. We were in 77° N., and he in 7G° 10', but we experienced a bright, warm sun, and our progress was easterly : evidently we enjoyed a far supe- rior climate. He had the luxuries of game and the occa- sional sight of vegetation ; not so with us ! and imme- diately I notice he killed two musk-oxen, cow and calf, and not long after a deer. I cannot but pity them .' they could not spare the fuel to cook them ! " Skinned and cut up the musk-oxen, one weighing 150 lbs., the other 50 lbs. ; buried a part of them for our return." "The coast trending N.N.W. and about one hundred and fifty feet high, fronted by flat beaches, terminating in hummocks of pressed-up gravel, or rather soil, which is now very abundant (stones are scarce) ; indeed we are obliged generally to build our beacons of gravel or earth. Osborn shot a deer today, a doe weighing about GO or 70 lbs., which was divided among the sledge crews. The musk-calf shot yesterday was very good, no taste whatever of musk about it. We find the fire however insufficient to cook it." On the IGth of j\Iay he reached a remarkable cape, about six hundred feet high, on which a laige cairn was erected and the Union hoisted, but, as tliis was within Governor Kellett's province, it was merely cutting off some of his fair proportions. It was therefore decided, to appease him, that it should bear his name. 'I'lie extiaor'di- % .(/' 1853.] GEOLOOTCAT, FKATURES. 47 nary watercourses were here remarked, some of a vertical depth of one hundred leet. He observes : — " This hill is about six hundred feet high, and is cut up in an cxtraor- dhiary manner by watercourses, a hundred feet or more in perpendicular depth, running in every direction. The lower land is sandstone ; on the summit arc large masses of lime, and, I think, some granite. Mica (at least so I take it to be) is very abundant in the clifts which are bared by the melting of the snows. The surface soil is covered with a red and green-coloured earth, resembling the dust of copper ore." (Pray number the intervening series between the shell-bearing limestones and granite !) It is not for me to dispute these records ; all have been told of their mistakes, but they determine to adhere to their adopted theories. The specimens are selenite. Proceeding a short distance further, he deposits five days' depot, for his return ; blanket-cover, and speci- mens, to lighten their weight. Completing his sledge to forty days from the ' John Barrow/ they move forward, parting with his last com- missariat, and directing him to examine the unexplored gaps left by his necessarily rapid advance, as well as the coast up to Marshall and Goodsir's furthest. He was now alone, and, as he observes, "The 'Sir Ed- ward' moved on in search of new discoveries; we were full of hope, although as yet no trace of the missing Expedition had been discovei'cd. We had examined three hundred miles of new coast, and were good for two hundred more ; the people were in good health and spirits, though it must be confessed somewhat lower in bodily strength than when they left the ship (?), and we I I I i i ri I r/ ¥ 1 48 IJKUTRNANT II AMII/IOn's PARTY. { Octo6er, had every reason to hope tluit, with the resources at our coniniaud, we should get to tlie westward of Melville Island, and find, at any rate, some indications of those we came to seek, should they have entered the Polar J% 17.— "About one p.m., to our great surprise, we crossed a sledge-track, which appeared very recent ; I innncdiately halted the sledge, and followed them back to the eastward. After an hour's quick walking, we saw an encampment, and, on coming up to it, found it tu be a party from the ' Resolute,' under Lieutenant Hamilton. The surprise of himself and his party may be imagined at being awoke from their dreams by the hail of a stranger!" The former inteUigence has been already given. Lieutenant Hamilton had been now twenty-one days from Dealy Island ; he accompanied him back to his tent, and finally, giving him instructions where to overtake Lieutenant Osborn, they separated. Comman- der Richards was then very nearly on our parallel, lati- tude 76° 48' 30", and having now reached the north ex- treme of ]\Ielville Island, bore away southerly for Ilecla and Griper Ray, meeting with many difficulties. On the 19th, on visiting a cairn left by Lieutenant Hamilton, lie noticed " a fragment of a pine branch, about two feet long, with part of the 6ar/>: upon it, worn and split from contact with the ice, having probably drifted from North-west America. It had not the slight- est appearance of having come from a ship." He reached Cape Mudge on the 28th ; all appearances of animals ceased on rounding the north point of Mel- ville Island, and heavy weather prevailed. 1853.] UKACITES THE ' RF'^SOLTJTE.' 49 On tlio 31st, lie hnd previously observed, "I feel myself, in the evening, like un iron poker, only not so strong," having sprained his ankle. This morning how- ever another adventure occurs. He notices "a tent pitched on the land, very close ; presently the inmates of it saw me, and were evidently much surprised, and doubt- ful as to what colours we were sailing under, knowing that we could not be any of their own pai'ties. The of- ficer advanced to ascertain my character, and in a few minutes I had the pleasure of shaking hands with Lieu- tenant rim, of the ' Resolute.' My party coming up, we received a hearty welcome from him and his people. Lieutenant Pirn, I found, had been weather-bound here for some days ; and well he might be, for, except before the gale, it would have been impossible to travel." He remained one hour, supplied himself with provisions, ob- tained information as to his best route, and pushed on. Lieutenant Pim was en route to Cape Fisher, to place a depot for Commander M'Clintock. The overland journey was attended with difficulty. On the 3rd of June he discovered the * Resolute' and ' Intrepid,' and " at five a.m. on Sunday, the 5th of June, I arrived on board the ' Resolute,' where my appearance {(done) created no small surprise. They were not pre- pared for a solitary visit from 'the Wellington Channel.' The ship seemed almost deserted, two or three officers only on board, and the few men I saw seemed strangers, as indeed they were, being invalids from the ' Investi- gator.' 1 received a hearty welcome, and every kindness a weary traveller could wish for. Dr. Piers, of the ' In- vestigator,' undertook to patch my feet up, and render me VOL. II. E A \\ I I \ ill 50 MEKTS CAPTAIN KELLETT. OcfoheVy L;( fit for travelling in three days. Captain Kellctt was ab- sent; bnt Mr. M'Dongall, the commanding officer, made the preconcerted signal for his return, and Monsieur dc Bray proceeded with a sledge towards Cape Bounty, to look for him. Dr. Domville was at the * Investigator,' at Banks Land, holding a medical survey of her crew, and was hourly expected back. His report would decide the steps to be taken with regard to remaining by or deserting that ship." On the 7th Captain Kellett returned, and was of course much surprised and deli ^hted to learn the news and to have the opportunity of such a direct communi- cation with mc, more than any day's writing could con- vey. The extract of his letter has already been given. After feasting on venison, musk-ox, hare, ptarmigan, etc., all served in Christian style, he observes, " I could not help contrasting this fare with what my less fortunate shipmates are probably revelling on at present, perad- vcnture a cm-ried gull, or a steak of walrus or Polar bear ! " Captain Kellett having delivered to him the ne- cessary documents, accompanied him one day's march, taking him on his dog-sledge. On the 8th of June he took leave of Captain Kellett, and travelled by the eastern coast of Melville Island up the Byam Martin Channel. He adopts the double jour- ney, sleeping between. I cannot perceive the advantage; more is possibly got out of the men, but not justifiably. Broken sleep and double fatigue may not be detected on the light homeward journey; but, in our case, we returned heavy, did quite as nnich, aiul the men were not out of working order : no jaded countenances or [853.] SHOOT A UKAR AM) BUCK. 51 complaints, and yet wc had no luxuries, no extra food. I notice that the outward heavy journey took fifty-six days, and the return, light, thirty -five days , total, ninety- six days. All evidently nnich the worse for wear. On the 14th of June he discovers, at Point King, one of Dr. Bradford's cairns, and finds hlc latitude to agree nearly with that determined by that officer, but, he ob- serves, " the chart is constructed nearly twenty miles at variance with this latitude. This coast is remarkably straight, being a series of very shallow bays or indenta- tions, with the land extending some distance off" them : occasionally watercourses from the inland ranges. The cairn had entirely mouldered away." Here they fell in with a bear, which was fired at within thirty-five yards, hit in the chest, charged, shot in fore and hind quarters, and fell, but before they reloaded he regained his legs, took his departure, and escaped. It was seen to fall at some distance, but was considered too lean for fuel, and therefore not pursued further. On the 1 5th they killed a fine buck, the Sergeant hit- ting him in the windpipe at seventy yards. Although Sergeant of Marines here, he is an old campaigner in the Indian wars, being a non-commissioned officer at the Kyber Pass, and other similar amusements. On the 16th of June he reached Dr. Bradford's fur- thest, where he found the cairn, constructed of stone, quite perfect. The latitude of this position is Tb° 50' N. The entire journal is occasionally enriched with the natural dry humour of my friend Richards. As it will doubtless contribute to the customary Blue-book, I shall be cautious in my extracts, so as not to rob it entirely of E 2 i m I i! i M 52 HETURNS TO CAPK f.ADY FUANKT.IN [Orfohcr, interest. He is nbout to encamp nenr the Rendezvous Hluff: — 'MVe hnd our elKjieo of ground tonifj;lit, I'ither soft snow or soft elay ; \vc diosc tin; liitti'r, as heing n novelty, and as reminding us of the approach to a pig- stye in England of a November day." Savr deer, but the men were too nuieh reduced to can; about killing them. Vegetation here was more luxuriant ; but the wild sorrel, seen for the first time, even a rarity. Everything very backward ; this tcjo on the 2 1th of June ! lie observes: "There is much more vegetation however on this side of the Strait than on the other ; indeed, there would seem to be a well-defined line of sterilitv on the north-east side of Melville Island, which appears to extend thirty miles to the southward, and nearly as far to the westward of the north-east extreme." " It is re- markable too that no animals, or traces of them, were seen on that corner. I can only account for it by the force of the north-west wind telling constantly there." Why the Hudson's Bay guns should burst, in prefer- ence to all others, I know not, but in both Expeditions we have had very narrow escapes. Who makes them ? On the 10th of July, having reached Cape Lady Franklin, he met with the tent, and two men, left liy Lieutenant Osborn, gone southerly ; he is also surprised by meeting with Mr. Loney, sent to relieve him. He observes, as he is obtaining sights, " I saw two people coming over the hill, which I took to be Lieutenant Os- born and one of his party ; but, to my great surprise, on coming nearer, one turned out to be Mr. Loney, from Northumberland Sound, who had been sent with a cutter to recall me, if I should have arrived, and help to carry \ \ 1853.] CUTTKIl IN I)AN(iKR. 53 my people ncmss the Strait, Avliich I could ill luivc done with tlu! small boat alone." lie moves on for the cutter, and observes : — " I found the wooden waterproof tray (Forster's) answer well; it carried the sledge and gear across some wide lanes of water without giving us the trouble of indoading and putting them in the boat." Having reached the cutter, and sent her men back to assist, he and Mr. Loney were cpiietly having a yarn, or, in his own words, "we were seated ([uietly in the cutter, which was hauled on the floe, one hundred yards from the land, when suddenly wc perceived the ice to be in motion, and in a few moments the tloe, with tin; boat on it, was forced twenty feet up the steep beach, and rested on a mass of grounded hummocks. Slu; was turiicil comi)letely over, with enormous pieces of ice hanging over and about her, threatening instant destruc- tion ! There was no help at hand, and all we could do was to pick up some of the gear and instruments which had been turned out of her, and look on (looking out for ourselves at the same time). It was more than half an hour before we could recall the people by tiring guns, etc., during which time the boat was being moved about among the hununocks in a manner that surprised us how she was not crushed to pieces ; it seemed impossible that she could escape. The ice however stopped running, and she eased down and saved herself by a miracle, rest- ing on her mastheads, bottom up, against the ice ! I am persuaded that, had a ship been in the same position, it woidd have been total destruction to her. The liijht- ness and phability of the boat's frame was alone her safeguard , but il was an extraordinary sight to look at I ■.' 64 RETUHN« T(» Tin; ' AH8i8TAN('i;.' [Ovfok'r. I her, t()ss(!(l iihout more than twenty feet abovi; our lioads, like a nutshell, among piix'cs of ice twenty times her own weight, anil sustain so little danmge. The crew f;oon got her safe on the land, and we succeeded in sav'ng nearly nil the gear." It is fortunate, perhaps, the crew were absent ; some attempt to interfere with Nature might have caused loss of life or severe injury. Mr. Loney's sextant was severely injured, indeed ruined, the arc being twistijd. This dose is one of the prevailing liabilities to boats and ships. At eight A.M. on the 11th they left the south shore in the two boats, tmd reached Barrow Island about four P.M., both boats rather leaky. To us Barrow Island, viewed on all sides, appeared to rise rather abruptly on the low land, but Richards describes it as so smooth as to render it difficult to determine its apex, much re- sembling the back of a turtle. This is a deceptive point to determine, to any but a practised eye, ou any very ex- tensive swell of land. A cairn was built, and at six a.m. on the mornhig of the 1 2th of J\dy they pushed forward, landed on Spit Island, saw the ship, and came on, reach- ing our floe as before stated, and bringing despatches from Captain Kellett, at Melville Island, in thirty-five days. II 55 4 VMAVn^M III. limi ol'tlu! Ice. — Driven ajiToiiuil. — Tlimiir liimils. — Crystal I'alaci'. — |{,t!ll(!cti()ii» on Nature's ('iil'ts*. — Tidal Kd'cds on Siiip.— Last View of the Sim. — lee lifting the Siiip. — \'h'>{ of a Wolf. — luanjjnralion of Crj'stal I'aiaee. — Frost-bites. — luereased Comfort. — JV-cuiiar Co- ineich'uee of Teni|)erature. — Coast-line Fissures. — Kreeziii;^' benealh the Kloe. — State of the Crews. — Christmas Hay. — Thermometers inserted in the Snow, — Elfeet of Wind on Snow. Till'; excitement and duties attending our late flow ol' events has almost withdrawn our atti^ntion from om- merciful escape, — not forgotten, indeed, but clouded by antieij)ation of the eventful future. We arc indeed to ])e compared to the unfledged yoimg of the tern, born and left upon the rock at the termination of the setison, to perish, unless "He who tdl protects" extends his shield over us. Day by day events confuse sill our fine-sptm theories, and we find ourselves again cast upon our backs. On this, the SOth of October, and lati* in the season, we are as nnich bereft of any ratioiud feeling of security, jis in August last. Such may be our case in the Novend)er gale ! Hardly had these observations been penned, when that peculiar un^nusical sound residtiiig from scjueezing m III lii i -l » !■ 'f mmmmtmmmm III 56 RUN OF THE ICE. f i I October, ice, by some termed "cat agony," not mucli unlike the wet finger over a plate of glass, added to an unmistak- able roar of moving gravel on the beach,— intimated one of Nature's movements. Oh that pen or pencil roidd portray on paper the extraordinary sensations, or the sublimity of the changes in but a few short hours ! even minutes might have determined our fate, but it was not " Ill's will." The scene T will endeavour, but I fear very inade- quately, to describe. I had gone on deck to witness, as I imagined, simply one of Nature's freaks, and foreseeing possible mischief, determined to aid in turning to advan- tagc what nuist otherwise inevitably result in disaster. Tt was an exhibition— a period of command never to be erased from my memory ; we were, nevertJieless, in innnincnt danger. The outer floe was in action, press- ing heavily on the shore. The newly-formed outer ice was buckling, piling, and threatening to overwhelm all within. Unless the ship could be withdrawn, and that by an inclination away from the grounded ice, she must be overwhelmed or driven ashore in such a position as to leave her subject to be rolled over on her broadside. The hands being at their stations, a canal was most exi)editiously cut with a long radial curve, coaxing, nmeh in the same manner as in railway practice, her motion oft' the nearest mass of ice. I clearly foresaw that the in- stant her bow became pressed, the ship, acting on the ice astern, would force it under the smooth surface, and gradually help lu>rself to a new dock. Causing our' men to depress the imicr pointed end, the force connuenced ; cable wa^ veered, and beautifully did s'■ i r^.. ,\^( A I. f »-'| ., : i|.; c, ill'.* !*.il)iep (iiiiv ci»n.'liUi'' >y't in" Viii.uia '!'mvvii," with M'n't' tiiiiCH Miiv li jH} iii.>'< l'\( Oh. ^r' . 'urv also 1,1 itaUM \ *^i U "■> c '[ ' ' '*i' "'tiO f-tn|iri' " ''hi.'- cuncliuiu! t! ('iiC'!.* • .^i|> 'Im' ■. h :■'»>,!< j*tr> !lil||V' illli»u-!;.i'", «' '"iv ' f , •-''■■ i.i ' ■ ixal-i <^!>pi;(*. let! ' i>* -t ;- •>nh. ' t, .>. . , c ',1- ■ ■:■■■ , , -^'i^i i';i'i ill- .■;i..t' Hi*, nil .tM'i nirt ■' '■•■' > ii V, ,..iji tj ):ii'!c(.. .1' .. ...uaat'' 'ir t''!s iinjiM ••'il, • •.ijiriy .M.lia '^r-! ^i; n ''ii' t^ap li-ift, ' .^■.., >■*!.■.'-> ' ,1 lu- ;. ■- If I'. ■' ■ I / 'i . ,.:i<)f(: 1? r. VVll'i-!'i W:'-. ■ ;<•■ I » ; I . . I- \.\y (UkcO'' ' i to ilJi.- the ■H'!.nd> V'-nftinj* *V'^ .! ;^. / ^1 • f t ■11^' m I *-!■ ' • •^.^ H 1 .< '' ■ m 1 ^■*. f ,^' '* ^■^ ■'J. ^ ' A^V * *■,*•■ •v= '"B* '«» isr,f}. fASt. Ar, F'tlDsT-lifTF.S. 07 the Vhhc.c. duly christened '' Alhcr-t, FTouhc, of Vi(t(,iin 'rown," with tlirce tirriCH three he;irty ehec-r.-*. The Oh- .Her\-fit.ory also obtained the lif;iiour of " f 'ornvvall \/)(\<^y.' This eonchided the e(trenioiiy, ('xe, pt that vvhieli was ])(v- hapH almost as aceeptahle tr) the spirited huihh-rs,- thf; r(;petition of the foast at their wann meal in AIIso[)p's universally a{)[)laiu!ed " best." Out of good evil vvilj r,ft ari-^e, . and thus it lia[)p(;ned to sfjme of our /,f:alous and loy;i,l party, who had in- eautiously vc^ntured direct from their warm quarters to part,iei[)ate in this important ceremony, exchan^rinf^ a temperature of CH' to —2:5', = H'i'' of cold. This im- rrifidiately tr>uehed fingers and noses, rendering them of that peculiar deadly wliite known as frost-bite, 'i'liis affliction has long afforded the old Arctics the privilege oi' taking their friends by tfie nose, in order to restore animation. Hut it lias now lapsed into the simple ap()li- cation of the l)ack of tfie waini hand, ax the more inofn;n- sive and approved mode of convf^ying kind attention. Our gale, although not felt by us under the protection of the land within us, evidently blows strong aloft, the temperature rr^ing to —14'', and the scud filoft flying rapidly from thf; s(,.'ai-so,jth-east. On the I I th r,f So- vemb(;r it had 'nercasccl considf;raf)ly, but still ah)ft, rai.sing the terriperature to -(','', but thf; whistling of the breeze, added to the -attling of tlu; frozf;n ropes abr^iit our mastheads and r.-i/entopmast, aff'orflf:d music suf- ficier. ly discordant to rnatftrially intf:rfere with pleasant dreams. The dryness, as well ;i^ lightness, of the ship rendfirs her almost as .sonorous as a musical instruir.,':rit ; and the sounds r(;sulting from pacing the fleck, or veri F -2 I'll ! l! m: 68 APPETITE AFFECTKD. \N<)r('inhci' tlie floe cracking near the ship's sides, are far from aiding our slumbers, vvliicli on tliis second winter we und some- what impaired. In addition to tliis, the appetite is almost M-anting, Avinc is not appreciated, and it wonld require infinite labour to afTord even iMonsieur Soyer definite in- structions as to what wonld be palatable. Yet eat and drink wj nuist, in order to sustain nature, and prevent our falling so far behind as to render recovery of strength even doubtful. November 30. — I shall now recur to our fitting for winter, warming operations, etc. The system, in so far as our experience affords a drier condition of the lower deck, appears to answer coiupletely, considering the re- stricted means at our connuand. But our experiments with imperfect fittings remind me nuicli of a leaky -hip, the air in the present instance forcing its way in by every unstopped crevice. However, such as our success has been, may easily be derived from the following. The nearest approach to our present temperature occurred about the 14th of Decendoer last season. Dec. 14, 1852. Aov. 9, 1853. BifFercncc Shove -3(;° -33° 3° Deck -33 -11 i!) Main hutch way . . -33 + 28 01 B0Wi5 (1(1.) . . . + 48 + 1!) 1 Mainmast .... + 42 + .50 8 Gun-room . . . + 43 + 50 13 Cnhin + 42 + 53 11 By the above it is aj)parent that we obtain Vf on ' \ r 1853.] INCKEASIiJ) COMl'OllT. 69 deck, and moreover free from any breeze or draught ; ar at the condenser over the main hatchway, and about 40° above the old snow-liousc for washing : to expatiate on such advantages wouhl be idle, lint what ranount of perfection one would be warranted in anticipating under adequate fittings for Arctic service Aa)uld probably still more astonish those who have hitherto been incredulous. The great point to which my present interest is direct- ed will not undergo a fair trial until the spring, when wiUi glazed windows adapted to our housing, I fully ant'cipate great advantage to the invalids, invariably in- vigorated umlcr scorbutic affection by the sight of light and the sun's rays : in fact, in a deck hospital, under a temperature not nuich lower than that of our lower deck durmg the last season. Last evening, notwithstanding such imperfect fittings, we had an opportunity of testing the result of a strong gale, 5 to 8 from south by east"^ attended with considerable drift. Although the drift pe- ncti-ated, abundantly showing every imijcrfection of our workmen, we contrived to preserve — 8° on the quarter- deck, when the external air ranged — 17 . Duriu"- this l)reeze I n;omentarily expected some movement of the ice ; but beyond heavy cracks and jarring of the outer ice, no perceptible disturbance could betraced. W^' have now pretty well settl'd the true cause which produced the sensation to those ice-bound, and termed hitherto the snapping of bolts, etc. I have watched it nan-owly, and for every crack so heai'd read " a crack in the floe, w hieh instantly communicates itself to our uui- siral box " I have traced them all satisfactorily, and I further notice, that as the ice increases in thickness that W II 70 CKACKiNo SOUNDS EXPLAiNKU, [Nuccmber, tlie sound is not so sensil)ly coniniunicatccl. If the noise iiad resulted from bolts breaking, where, I would ask, would the 'Assistance' be now ? But who ever discovered a bolt broken ? And so convinced am I now that these noises will cease as the cold becomes more intense, that I intend to direct " every crack heard to be registered." If they should cease, even when we know the ice to be cracking extensively, the ship being isolated in her own piece of floe, surely no one will contend against what we experience and register! or let some better informed person instruct us why the 'Assistance' ceases to crack ; or are all her bolts and trenails destroyed ? To meet the ideas of those who contended for ventila- tion, I tried an experiment on our main hatchway con- denser, fitting two ventilators with the elbows of the cabin stove-pipes, of copper. The result was speedily determined : the temperature fell to 9°, instead of 24°. The lower-deck sleepers protested against the cold ; mois- ture ensued : they were abolished, and all went right, Did I convince any one ? November 25.— Upon examination of the ice-gauge for the last twenty days, it affords a mean of 0-5 inches, or half an inch per diem increase, the mean temperature being -:25-756°. This appears to approach to somc- thingj.ike reason; for we find, with a temperature of -20°, that the ice at the surface of the sea will freeze more than four inches dunng twenty-four hom-s. This must also be nmch influenced by the depth, currents, nature of the bottom, whether rock, sand, or nnid, as well as by any gaseous formation beneath, aftecting'the general temperature of tjic underlying son. \ ^ > ^ s > 1853. J PKCL'LIAR C01NC;iUENCE OF TEMPERATUHE. 71 As a table will be formed, exhibiting the progressive ineremcnts of ice during the season, it will lie needless to state here what will then, J trust, be satisfoctorily de- monstrated by experiment, as well as the whole mode of proceeding. The average temperature of this season seems to indi- cate a more s(>vere winter than last : thus, last year we experienced, between the 20th and 27th of November, 1852, 'Assistance,' max. +17°; min. —12-5°; mean, + 0-380°; between the 20th and 27th of November, 1853, mux. —14°; min. —37-0°; mean, — 27-714°. The mean for the month, unless we have higher temperatures, must be low ; that of the ' llecla,' at Melville Island, iu 1819, being — 20-()°. November 30. — Having completed the month, we will compare the results : — IMiix. Min. IMpiin. 'Assistaiitr,' montli of NoveinlxT, 1853, +7°, —37°, — 18-330° 'Hecisi,' „ „ 1819, +G°, -47 , -20'G00° Carefully turning these matters over in my mind, it occurred to me that in tiie higher latitudes it w^ould pro- bably be found that a mean mininuuu temperature would prevail, uotAvithstanding sudden and unaccountable ex- tremes, below anything experienced by our predecessors. I therefore referred to the records of the follow inir ves- sels, as likely to afford me some insight into this pre- sumed law. I found them to coincide most wonderfully, omitting for the present our own tables for 1853 until the completion of the seven or nine months. llt'cla,' Mt'hilk' IsUiud, iiicaii ol' uiac moiitli Oflobur to June :•}- ,1 if my\T I" PHD 72 J>Ei"iciKN(\ Of RiicoKjjs. [.\ovem6er, i ■ iMitcrjjrisi',' Leopold Ishmd ' Hcsolutc,' (ii'iilitli Islaiid 'Assistance,' Nortluiiuberliiiid yoiiiid, 1852-3 -10.44° - if 5 7° -l()-()3° It certainly ii])})cars v(3ry strange tliat the resnlts slionJd so nearly agree, but it reminds me strongly of the ge- neral guesses which have been made since we reached these regions, not only in our times of starting, but in our general csthuiites of the; operations to be executed, and the written orders issued in consequence. It IS true that the records of Parry's voyages, and som(- chance i)rivate manuscript extracts from those of Sn- James Ross and zVustin, happen to be in my posses- sion, from which various questions have suggested them- selves, and so far experience may be said to have lent its aid ; but it may naturally occur to ray readers, AVhy can- not all officers conunandiiig such voyages adopt the law of the profession? AVhy is Parry's the sole official au- thority ? We have no published information from Sir James Ross, Austin, or Saunders, to aid us either in tem- l)eratures, tracks, homciourd or outward ! no seamaidike observations to guide us in the selection of a homeward route. The [)rofession may exclaim. You must exercise your own ability. That 1 am prepared for, in so far as ex- perience has been gained ; but when called on to write instructions, mid to direct a vessel to pursue a certain course, for her safe as well as rapid voyage to England, 1 should be prepared with some reason to give for the se- lection of a route which may diifer from the only record supplied l)y Parry in his voyages of 1819 and IS.C L Here 1 am sent to discover quite as much as Parry was on his first voyage, and, in many instances, find :r t' lb 5 a. ACTION OF COAST-LINE FISSURES. 73 % tlit3 aspect of affairs in 1853-54 to diflbr niaterially from that rccortled in 1819 to 1824 j and yet five Expeditions liavc since visited Lancaster Sonnd, witliont having re- corded tlieir opinions or furnislied tables of temperature, or remarks npon the ice navigation of Baffin's Bay! I'ortnnately, some previous acquaintance with tlie pecu- harity of cold climates, and a close study of certain theo- ries connected therewith, have enabled me to form, as they have eventuated, just conclusions, but nothing to Avarrant deviation from the beaten track,— nothing but presumption,— should failure have occurred. Too true the adage, " Success is wisdom ;" but, had misfortune resulted, no one but myself can feel how many disa})- [)ointed opinions would have been hurled at my arro- gance ! It is a very slippery climate and a very slippery service. Prosperous as we have hitherto been, I still shall rejoice with no connnon joy at my completion with- out disaster. Today I examined the tidal fissures on the coast-line ; it was nearly high water, and the cracks did not aftbrd Sea. ^' f-^:-: ::^,^Smw I '{,,4^ Ico so perfect an exhibition j nevertheless the upper gaps were wide, and convinced me that the general motion of the ice must be insensibly, as we have no gauge to determine its action, drawing off-shore. In some in- i ill 74 IJUK.WEllY 01' UKEU. [ Decern dn', 'i stances tlu' iu-slum' pressure was visihU; by the arching or huckling of the ice, which I have eiuk'avoured to (ex- hibit in one of the Phitt's, as well as at page LIU, \'ol. 1. The curvature, in a span of eighteen feet of the in-shore ice, was three feet ; in twelve outsi(U', two , but nine cracks altogether between the ship and the beach. The angular edges of the gravel terraces, numbering twelve from the beach-line to our nearest rise or tirst plateau, were completely denuded of snow, and exhibited the formation due to about one lunulred feet vertical ele- vation very })rcttily. Our Allsopp's ale being expended, we conuucnced our ship brewery last week, as well as the cultivation of mus- tard and cress, the results of which will be found tabu- lated in the Appendix. Dcccmbi'r 5. — Our experiments on the freezing of the tloc seem to preserve a very regular progress, not exceed- ing half an inch per diem ; indeed, considering that the tioe has now attained a thickness of three feet, I cannot imagine that any further decrease of temperatiu'e jibovi; the floe-surface will materially affect this aj)parent lixed scale. The increase at present nuist (Ie[)eud on the tem- perature of the sea beneath, which during winter we have found to maintain nearly the freezing temperature. Last year I noticed that water taken at six fathoms be- low the sui'face, and suddenly In'ought into my cabin in the bottle by which it v.as procured, e.\hil)ite(l a float- ing white surface of two inches, which, on close exami- nation, was found to be com[)Osed of fine detached stel- lar crystals. 1 further noticed that the main body of th(> fluid was also fully charged with these crystals, and 185;i.J PROCESS OF lUEEZINO UKNliATII TlIK I'LOK. /.> that until the temperature rose they maintained a con- stant motion towards the surface. No ice formed; it was Hkc l)rilhant snow, and not cohering, It inmiedi- ately occurred to me that such a process, constantly in action beneath the floe, may possibly, by cohesion, afford the small daily increment which we have just noticed. At noon today the light was as clear and bright as a December mo! ning in England ; the stars were still brightly visible to the northward, but the southern arch of light, oidy illumined to about twenty degrees of alti- tude, and tinted pale rose and yellow, rendered even those of the first magnitude very indistinct. AVc have not now for some time experienced any decided motion of the ice, and begin to feel that we have a chance of resting rpiietly in our ships for the remainder of the winter. The cold has undoubtedly penetrated the ships late- rally, and to such a degree that some of AUsopp's ale, stowed at the end of Sylvester's apparatus, and which does not freeze until the temp(!raturc falls to 22-5°, was found congealed in the neck of the bottle. I have there- fore had an ice wall built round the after-part of the ship, and filled in with loose snow. To those A\ho may take bottled fluids to such climates it may be useful to know that, if champagne bottles be used, the ice forms in the neck, expels the cork, and performs its duty. The deck temperatures now average from nineteen to twenty degrees warmer than the external air, excepting when we have a strong wind, when the bare hangings, of loose sails, will not of course impede the passage of snow- drift; but this does not at all aflect om- internal tempc- i I;' i: li 5 ,mI I 7(i Ml STAHI) AM) fHKSH ISSUKI). [ December, ratiiiv, wliicli nmgcs between 40" and 50^ iiiul 85" to 45" ill my cal)iii, where Sylvester does not aid. The hjadin^i,' the decks witli gravel and snow lias of course been superseded l)y tlie dry wood deck, tlie tem- perature of wliieli caimot well be proved. A very great advantage is thus secured, as the removal of the snow and grav(!l (literally ice) damages our decks and glass- illuminators considerably. Last season the cabin sky- light was filled in with oakum, and became almost a mass of ice. It is at this moment free even from inter- nal frost on the glass ! The clock occupies its summer l)osition, and is read off from my u])per condensing house by the sentry on duty on deck. Decciiber 8. — I was agreeably surprised to find a very refreshing salad of mustard and cress placed on my table, and further, that an issue of seven pounds had been administered among the crew generally. This ex- ceeds our gardening of last season, when I perceive that our first issue of three pounds took place on the 1st of January. Certainly that before me was rather deficient in its natural colour; but our eyes arc now so very weak and jaundiced, that I must imagine they deceive me ; in flavour however it was perceptibly grateful. We have also commenced brewing spruce beer, for the use of the invalids. The first porter brewery has proved more suc- cessful, so that we are evidently becoming more an fait at these matters. As regards the condition of the crew generally, they ai)pear to increase in size, probably the result of additional clothing ; they are nevertheless fuller in countenance, and the brightness of the eye assures me that their gcnc^ral health and cheerfulness are not im- Is 5:1 1 ST\rv. (»l TlIK CHKWS. / / paired. On the 1st and 1 Itli of each month tlicv nndomo a clos(! inspection by the Hnr|i:('on, but specially as to any indicatioji of scorbutic atlcction. [ regret lunvever that two of our invalids furnish very anxious cases. One, at- tached to the ' Pioneer,' exhibited symptoms of scurvy in June Inst ; the other, in this shij), connnenced with disease in the bones of the right foot, (ividently scrofu- lous. These have remained much the same for the Inst six months ; but within the last few days it is very apparent that they nre much reduced ])y iiuiction and confinement to their cots. We have been particularly exempt of late from even moderate breezes, but the lofty fleecy cloiuls seem to travel with some ra})i(lity from the southward. This evening I went out to look at the moon passing our meridian, north. I found it encircled with a peculiar danchig image, which I at first nscribed to defective vi- sion. Shifting my view to the stnrs, I found my sight to be perfect. Dctermhicd not to be put out of counte- nance by the lady, I again faced her. I now discover(>d a very beautiful play of radial coruscations, expandino- and contracting like the pupil of the eye under sudden changes of light. One cause probably might be referred to the increased or diminished light on my own optics ; but the other I detected to proceed from very light fleecy vapours passing over the surface of tlic planet, and, ac- cording to the number of lamina> or their density, pro- ducing this flickering radiating appearance. Although calm below, the breeze aloft urged these mists with great rapidity. At a later hour a very clear exhibition of })araselena I'l" i , 1. 't ■ , and other positions, where I am now eonvinced that search for traces of Sir John shoidd be made, conviuctv* as I am that he nevei- passed up this Channel. December 25. — Here then we have reached Christmas Day,— not unlike any other, but Sunday adds to its so- lemnity, and brings our day of rest from bodily, but not mental labour. This morning the ice was gauo-ed, and found to be three feet eight inches, = 44 inches, or at the rate of 045 during the last ten days, tlu; previous ten being 0 35; which will hereafter be re- duced to a tabular form, as well as the effects of fittings, which afford 19° increased temperature on the quarter- deck, without wind, and in the main condenser over the main hatchway (open) 46°, the external air being onlv -19°. " * I first visited the ' Pioneer,' and although that is now our hospital, and some allowance must be made for two invalids in a very doubtful state, still there appeared to be some attention to the comforts of the season. One of the invalids indeed appeared to be in higher spirits, and took a fancy to a glass of champagne, in which, of course, he was, with the doctor's i)ermissioi;, indulged. At noon I examined the good cheer and admirable tf.ste and comfort displayed on board the ' Assistance ;' and as I saw enough to describe, I shall not omit giving VOL. II. r- 82 ' hi * MOTTOES OF TIIK MKssj'.s. [Dpcem/wr, ail outline, commencing witii tlie Marines' mess, on the port or left side aft, of which our Sergeant, Cieorge Jef- fries (formerly one of the heroes of the 4 1st at the Cahul Pass, etc., in 1^42, and a most exemplary soldier iutre) presided. No. I. — Motto: "ROYM, AND LoYAL." A very nciit cliiindclicr, lastcfully \\. [J(tM/«lfJ/, leiulor sprini; travel nlnu)Ht impossilth!. We Imrdly look lu'Vond our pirsciif sensations ; but havinj^ expi rieiiccd a tcniperaturo of — K)')'' hut three days since, it is not ()rohal)le that wc shall be lon^ in this laneiiul misery. On this, oni" New Year's Day, I have inspected our lionie dej)artnicnt between decks, where I was pleased to notice the same conilort, good hmnonr, and good cheer reigns. I had but litth; to add to my (/hristmas toasts, but the wish, which many end)lems exhibited forcibly brought to my miml, that they had the lain r part of the creation to warm their hearts and render enjoyment more rational. After the customary toasts of Her Majesty, the Prince, etc., I had only to express my wish that the op- position between tlu; adverse berths, married and bache- lors, miglit be swamped by the single becoming married and the marrii'd happy, sentiments which seemed to find an echo even in these dreary regions. The preparations tor enjoyment were apparently on an increased scale : comfort and cleanliness, those virtues inherent in all well ordered and well disposed scamvn, prevailed; and haj)- piness, if that commodity ever reaches thus far north, I have reason to hope was in a small degree disseminated. What robe she adopts here it is difficult to determhie : if white, how ha])p\ and innocent we should be ! the roK/viir lie rofte is not traceable. .latuiury 5. — The result of much noise and anxiety proved that Punch had again got into bad com})auy with the wolf; but his ftiithful ally. Lady Fanny Disco, in the most affectionate manner, rushed to his rescue, and brought him home to his family. Daylight, or the grey tint of an English morning, is now {\\A evtinding, and J < IS61.J col, I) niitioii^. 80 alioiit tlu! hitli of Kclininry uo sliull be kcciil)' watching lor " tlic imxli^ars ri-tiini." .hiiiKutif b. — Al)()iit tliis period last. year wc cxpo- I'it'iicfd our extreiiH' range ot" cold, but this season it Heenis to observe nearly a week or a (|uartcr of a moon later, wliieli would accord pretty well with the ditlerence in the times of full moon, — indeed, almost a complete substitution of the full for new, less four days. Under our present temperature of —42' I never vvitncsstHi our lower di'ck in a mon; dry or comfortable condition. Our system has at length n(jt only become complet(!ly (>sta- bli.'lied, but even the; most sceptical are now almost as diitermined in their connnendations. Jannftr// 9. — Yesterday 1 noticed a wolf prowling alongshore wli;n 1 left the Crystal Palace : had he bi'cn inclined, he might easily have cut me ott', as no one was in sight to alarm, and T was too weak to make any run. Today, hearing his howl in the direction of where our men were at work obtaining clean snow to melt, 1 sent a man with a nnisket for their j)rotection. I found after- wards that there was but one man, J. Billett. lie de- sciibcd the wolf as close to him, and "that he was howl- ing in concert to keep him otf." The wolf did not tarry for the arrival of the man with the musket : they are nmch too cunning to be taken. •hnuiarij 10. — Shortly after midnight, at 0.20, George llarriss, one of the invalids on board the 'Pioneer' tender, departed this life. I fully expected his decease within the week, having made his will the day before, and evi- dently felt that he was going. He was taken ill about the "l'A\\ of April last, complaining of co\jgli, pain in the si. I ■ I 1)0 DEATH OF GEORdK HAKHISS. [Ja/lUari/, i: !• chest, niul weakness. lie was absent on sledge duty with the South-west Division, but returned on the 3rd of May, coniphiining of jjains, and weakness of hnibs. It appears that he was (Uscharged in six days from tlie list ; but after my return on the 26rh of June, he was reported as affected with scurvy ; and having examined him then with the Assistant Surgeon of tlie ' Pioneer,' his body and limbs were covered with small spots like boi's, but with dark ringed bases, — in fact, such an erup- tion as is often noticed in pan})er patients in England. Having witnessed a great deal of the worst kinds of scurvy, as well as that resulting from no known cause, on the coast of Africa, I did not think the spots alone war- ranted scurvy. However, at that period he gave way, being of a very slothful habit, difficult to keep clean, and, as I clearly foresaw, wo\dd hasten his own end by the want of common energy so inherent in seamen generally when they, as we term it, " take sick." The attention of the Assistant Surgeon, Mr. Rieards, was unremitting : he personally attended, washing and sponging him ; but no feeling of gratitude seemed to oc- cu})y the mind of the patient. Indeed, I cannot sutH- eiently admire the untiring zeal of tlie medical man with such an ungenerous, stubborn patient. I visited and en- deavoured at times to draw him into conversation, ])ut it was painful. If I had been, from some remote suspicion in his mind, the direct cause of his illness, he could not have displayed more moroseness ; indeed, from t! first moment I saw him in June last, he seemed to have " made up his mhid to die." 't'his probably is one of the peculiar tendencies or af- 1854.] SCOUBUTK PECULIAIUTIES. 91 fections of this disease. 1 liave heard of j)eoi)lc begging to be buried up to the neck and left to die, rather than be moved. He never ralHed, was helpless since Angust last, and, gradually losing the powers of speech and breathing, died without pain. This case brings me to remark, although not apj)li- cable to the deceased, the danger of bringing seamen the second cruise to this climate — " because they have been here before." I entertain the opinion that this is wrong, both in officers as well as men, Captaim excluded. Tlicij know the defects of " last cruise," and can see that they arc remedied ; but in no single instance (and 1 have not been idle) have I been able to detect any advantage resulthig from the entry of " old hands," ijuleed the revvisi". 7VII are given to talk : thus, "Oh! Tom D fell ill just in this way, — no scurvy, not a bit of it ; he had a bad arm, it got worse, he died ; and then they found it was all scurvy." These men are the first "hipped," and for sledge-work are next to useless. Last season I consider them to have broken down, and through the toils of this their pluck may carry them, but home they nuist go by the next opportunity, and what is the result ? The feel- ings become unduly sensitive, irritable, and embittered ; and they talk what I must, in compassion for their infir- mities, term nonsense. Still however nonsense is conta- gious ; it depresses those around them and creates dissen- sion. These seers are })roi)liets of bad omen. Jannarij 12. — The wolf has become very o.udacious, having bitten the small bitch belonging to the * Pioneer.' A tnij) has been constructed and very alluring baits laid ; I S)2 1'RISMATIC CROSS. [January/, but liithcrto without success, lie might have l)cen shot from the ship, as well as from the ' Pioneer ;' but some tales of the Boatswain and some of the men or dogs be- ing mistaken for the wolf, determined me on forbidding any attempts to shoot him near the ship. Today, on my stroll towards the Crystal Palace, I no- ticed a most beautiful phenonienon (noticed hi ' Pioneer's' log-book) ; indeed, I much doubt if in the days of Colum- bus the whole crew would not have been turned out to pay the customary adoration. I was startled, and remahicd 1 m El ■ stationary for some time, watching the apparent vision. It was the customary cross formed on the moon, but in this histancc, being at a low altitude, north-east, a broad l)yramidical base tapered from the floe to meet the ver- tical ray, and thus a perfect prismatic cross, Avith its pe- destal, was most completely represented as rising from the floe. This occurred at two days before the full moon. On that emblem, whatever his creed may be, no one r,\\\ ga/e without feelings, varying according to his educa- tion, moral as well as religious ! 1854.] DEAD MEN S EIFFCTS AND WILLS. t My course lod iiic on to tlio grave which our seamen were digging, near the Observatory. At this season this proved a very difficult oj)cnition, the ground being frozen at one foot below the surface gravel, or, more properly, comminuted limestone; for gravel, [)r()perly so called, does not exist in this neighbourhood. Such work we found tried our tools severely, and from the low tempe- rature rendering the metal brittle, they flew like glass. With loose stone and ice it is easier than with clay, whicii is absolutely attended with danger, splintering like glass. Seamen are generally disposed to follow out the last duties to their deceased messmates to the extreme of their available means, and, as in the case of our Marine deposited on Mount Beaufort, the coffin was covered with fine blue cloth. As I was unable at the moment to attend to the funeral service, and necessity did not call for the immediate exposure of all hands to the pre- sent biting temperature, I found it more convenient to deposit the coffin on the covcred-in forecastle of the ' Pioneer* until a warmer opportunity favoured. But when will seamen cease to be suiicrstitious, or when will educated men cease to foster such prejudices ? Quitting this question, another arises, on the will of a person dying at sea. In the Admiralty Instructions no- thing satisfactory on this subject is to be found, but the chattels and effect of every person dying at sea are " to be sold at the mast." This brings to my recollection a very interesting case which occurred in the year 1823, on board H.M.S. Sahsbury, at Bermuda. A mate, named Wharton, was drowned ; he having a })resentinicnt that his death would l)e sudden, and, as it happened, ob- 94 INSTRUCTIONS DEFICIENT. [Janitor^, II If, tnincd a promise from a messmate, that, if he died or was drowned, he would destroy certain scaled documents in his desk. The case was referred to the Captahi : he referred the matter to three Lieutenants to report upon. The two seniors decided to burn ; the junior was of opi- nion " that it was illegal ; it might be a will or family deeds, and, being dead, not his certainly ; having died without a legal will, they were in the hands of the legal heirs." They were parchments, and they were, with some difficulty, burned ! Let legal men declare, if the actors, who (excepting the party protesting) arc now dead, were not wrong, at least before determining, by the preamble, of what character they were. I had a strong suspicion, from the character of Wharton, that they were of great importance to another party, and I urged the matter strongly against the act before the deeds were destroyed : but I was too young to have influence ! The law on these matters should be fully set forth, for the informa- tion of all officers in command. The ' Pioneer' having been fitted, in pursuance of orders, in a similar manner to the 'Assistance,' I was gratified to find that the same difterence of nineteen to twenty degrees was found to prevail between the ex- ternal and internal au' on deck, as has been experienced here. January 19. — Although the temperature has fallen to — 52°, the cold hab not been more sensibly felt than if it had been at 32°, owing to the absence of wind to press it to the body. The light has now become very bright, attended with bright auroral tints near the hori- zon, and fringhtg the hills due south. 1854.] (RACKS IN (iUOUNDEI) JCE. 96 Seven distinct cracks near the coast-line mark the lines where the ice rests upon the bottom, some gaping so wide that it requires caution to step over them. In several })laccs, where rocks doubtless occur beneath, the floe is broken into very obtuse pyramidal irregularities. January 22. — Under the low temperatures which we have lately experienced, — ■i45° the condensation nt the bows, and about the mainmast, seoms to call for further experiment. I have therefore opened two illuminators forward, and inverted casks over the orifices, securely fitted with oakum, etc., and further opened up the offi- cers' companion, abaft the mainmast, three feet above the deck, covering it well with canvas. These seem to have acted very decidedly, by accnuudating vast depo- sitions of ice ; indeed it is very clear to my mind that materials only arc wanting to remedy instantly any de- fects of this nature as readily as they may present them- selves. It is my firm conviction that we are fiu" behhid in all the am ngements, and an entire new scheme should be adopted in the fitting of Arctic ships. All cabins should be free from the sides, and occupy the midship lines, with a free course for warm air round the wings from stem to stern. The messes should be placed amidships, and closets along the whole sides, for preserved meats, etc. This would not only enormously increase the stow- age, but render the distribution of small stores much more convenient, and destroy all nests for ice, excepting such as would act beneficially, serving as condensers, from whence, having no shelves, the ice could conve- niently be removed when expedient. However, as it is 96 RISE OF WATER. \Janiiarij, \v\ my firm conviction that no further movement in this direction will again be attempterl by Great liritain, it is needless for mc to dwell further on the means I would propose. During my examination of the in-shorc fissu'-es today my attention was excited by noticing some of th(j fissure edges raised much above their natural level, indeed be- yond the limit where the tidal force should be exerted. The question naturally occurred, Does the ice in winter attract the sea, ir does it aftbrd any similar action to the capillary or sponge, to enable it to lift the inner or de- press the outer portion ? for clearly the water now acts beyond the tidal range of summer. Travellers indeed sec strange things, but in no part of the world more un- explained and interesting matters than arc daily pre- sented in these inhospitable regions. Elsewhere the mind is perhaps more completely engrossed l)y subjects of greater interest ; here every incident furnishes matter for deep study. In order to satisfy myself upon this subject I revisited the spot at low water; the chinks or fissures varied from three to four feet in depth, and occm* above the line of forced-up ice. Their sides presented, even at such an elevation, eighteen inches of visible clear ice, and on their sides the various gradations of efflux, in crystallized shelves, clearly indicated the action of the re- ceding tide. The only mode by which we can account for this action, or flow above the natural level of a sum- mer tide, is by supposing that the quantity of ice hi- shore will not rise or yield, and that the infused fluid, unable to find vent, flows up by every available fissure. « i 1854.] DEATH OF ISAAC BURNKTT. 97 If this reason is tenable, it should also find its way up off-shore at the fire-hole cut alongside the ship. January 28.-— This afternoon, at 2.20, Isaac Burnett, Captain of the Maintop, died at the hospital on board the 'Pioneer.' In April last he complained of weak- ness and pain in the ankle, and was consequently with- drawn from the travelling party. As this progressed a dis^.osition to scrofula succeeded, accompanied by dis- ease of the bones. Latterly he had exhibited a more healthy condition, and I had strong hopes that he might reach Engl nd in time to save life; but since the death of Harriss he evidently became more depressed, and ex- hibited that peculiar quickness of feeling, and irritabi- lity, the peculiar attendant on scorbutic affection, which probably prevented his recovery. Eventually, effusion on the chest became apparent, and in the act of making some trifling exertion he expired, quietly and suddenly, as the Assistant Surgeon sat beside him ; so rapidly in- deed, that he was dead before the Surgeon, who had just quitted, could be recalled. This case resulted in scurvy, owing to confinement and inactivity in a confined sulphurous atmosphere for a very long period. After his decease I discovered that Harriss and himself had been shipmates and second- captains of the foretop in H. M.S. Ganges ; and from my observations on other persons, who were found to be partially affected with scurvy, I am satisfied that the mind will predispose otherwise healthy subjects to this insidious disease. Januari/ 20.— The weather has latterly continued fine, and the natural result has been that we have experienced VOL. II. g f) ' i ^ ll' ,1 I I 4'i ^^ KXTRE.Mi; coNTiNroi's (OM). [Jauunrif, fi more continuous (Icgrcc of cold, scnrcliing indeed every part of the ship, and affording perhaps the greatest de- gree of continuous severity on record ; thus, — For 84 continuous hours, mean, — 54'905°; max.- 50°; min. — 59-25°. 48 .. .. .. -r.7125°; „ -5.5°; „ -592.5^ 8* •• '. .. -57-125°; „ -55°; „ -59-25". I shall insert also, at this period of extreme cold, the comparative temperatures resulting from our im])roved measures for warming the vessel internally, or of retain- ing our heat without detriment to perfect ventilation : — DitFerenee. External air Upper deck Condenser (main hatchway) Ik'tween docks : — Bows Maiimiast Gun-room Cabi,. '. Sjjirit-room .... Main hold -57° — 29 + 3:5 + 45 + 45 + 50 + 40 + 3(5 + 53 28° 80 103 102 107 97 93 109 It is customary to presume that the Captain will enjoy the greater degree of comfort; but T have a notion (under the fear of contradiction) that he is the most miserable, uncared-for individual in the vessels engaged on this service, and that, in order to Avatch the interests of all entrusted to his care, his amour propre, or general pride, in pursuance of naval discipHne, impels him to exhibit 1 1S51.] IlACINd (iAMK. 90 that what |jc, in his person and phicc, can ciuluiv, all othrrs should submit to without uumnur; indeed,' the night temperatures, notwithstanding a continuous fire, were intensely felt in my pernliarly weak condition. There an; some iiulividunls who cannot be made to say what they feel, or, indeed, too uuieh inclined to ns- scrt that qi ./cring accents do not proceed from cold. For my own part, I do admit the present temperatures to be really cold,— undoid)tcdly, unpleasantly severe ; but, setting aside our own arbitrary expressions or scales of cold, let us inquire whut Nature is doing arpund us. The intensity of cold is stealing, through the sides and thin casings, to the interior of my fire-warmed cabin, heated up to +11°, not too hot in England. But as these words do not convey the meaning I wish to impress, I will just add, that cold is particularly attached to iron, and that it will follow it up most aftectionately through the sides, vertically or horii«ontally, and that even brad- heads, covered with putty and painted over to misre- present wainscot, condense the breath and moisture in pcarl-like hemispherical dots throughout my sleeping berth ; that if these jewels be removed at night, they arc replaced in the morning. It was the custom for all the oflicers to meet on Sa- turday evenings and enjoy a racing game, the board and horses of which were most kindly presented to the offi- cers, etc., by Lord Londesborough ; and the effect of as- sembling a dozen persons for three or four hours was, first, to cause the polished mahogany to stream, and be- fore morning to present a polished surface of ice. At present the French polish is peeling off, panels M 2 i \h' 'i I' ill ;! » ' m 1 1 ■i^l KM) CONDKNHKHS AHAIT TIM', t AIIIN, [./ff/tttfir//. crackiiifi; with louil rcijorts, joints o|)(!ning, and cvrry symptom, to moii of conniion ohsiTvatioii, of extraordi- nary dryness, the result of tlie absorption of all moistun; which the icy surfaces can attract. Abaft my cabin, in two extensive store-rooms, some devoted admirer of Na- ture's- wonders might enjoy himself for hoiu's in study- ing the splendid gem-studded beams, bristling with the larg(;st ami most [)crfect sp(!(!imcns of ice crystals that, even in fairy dreams, he could have imagined ; indeed they were two ice-caverns, and took up greedily every particle of moisture that could flow to them. Have I sufKciently impressed any one of my readers with the chill which, to a solitary naval chief, shouKl per- vade my winter prison ? If not, the only mode I can reconunend is to volunteer to come out and try such soJ'dari/ votifinemi'iif. If it be suggested, that it is easy to find companions, I can only reply, that some prefer sleep ; and sufficient topics, even iii tins of preserved meat, were uot supplied to maintain interesting conver- sation. It is this very scarcity of matter wdiich drives us to seek it from Natiu'c;, and even then, without con- genial minds to discuss it, alone. The low temperature to which I Inve referred is evi- dently nuich more keenly felt by those who have been exposed to it, and even by those in charge of watches, under infinitely greater protection, than last season, when our lowest, — G3o°, was almost lamoticed. But as re- gards my own feelings, beyond the moment, I am not a competent judge, being at present an invalid. Jaiumri) 31. — The day being peculiarly fine, and tem- perature at —40°, I strolled as far as our first terrace, and 1854. I.ONO I'KUIOn Ol' ISTHNSH ( OIJ>. h)i was surprised to iiotico the floe seaward to he appa- rently very smootli, all the roHj>;l» or j)a('k ic(! being eon- Hned to the region near our anchorage ;■— I use tiiis term now, because we i.ave indeed both anchors down (truly moored). T cannot account for tliis appearance, except by the infci-encc that th(! bree/e i-eaehed the ice about half a P'ile ofi' shore, ami has by this mode tilled up the irregularities with snow. The track niso of our intended sledge journeys alongshore ai)pears to otier smooth tra- velling as far as our view extends. Febrnari/ 3.— Our temperatures sti!l contimio very low, particularly in a continuous stream of cohl, the mean of 102 hours giving as under : — Max. -.j(f ; Mill. -.5y-25«; Mean, -.•)l:J4'^. In my attempt today to examine the outer ice I fouml the cracks to be numerous, and so loosely tilled in by snow that I was unable to venture beyoml the pack. Commander Richards, who went beyond, informed mo that the external floe is smooth, free from crocks, and is likely to afford fair travelling. The large masses of ice in the neighbourhood of the ship, or particularly ahead of her, present more confusion than T had imagined, ex- hibiting rents in every direction. Temperature alone could not effect this ; I therefore imagine that the sur- rounding masses, rising and falling with the tide, have proved too heavy for the grounded masses to supjjort. With reference to the continuous degree of cold re- gistered by us, I notice in Captain Parry's Journal at Melville Island that he experienced fifteen hours at — o()° (The narrative gives 5 r, but the tables 511° as the mini- I lO'i m ' SIMII-AK TliMI'EUATUIlKS. [Ffltl'Hitn/, iiiiiiii ; I sii|)|)()S(> tlicn'ton* Unit the thorinoiiictcr liiul ii n)nv(,ti()ii ii|)|)li('(l when tlu; tiil)K's wcmv foiiiplctod.) " Splittiiijf straws" liciv is cold work, Imt wIktc tin- mind lias no time loi' rest there must he iimple tood tor theory. It is our husiiiess to find f((rtf< to uiihold or demolish. 'I'lic prijseiit discussion sug}j;ested to mi; the prohahility of an average? degree ol" heat and cold due to these localities, within cm'tuin parallels, which might be deemed lit I'or comparison. Fortunately, 1 liad taken the precaution of eolleetiiig such documents as would be of interest to me, and I now tind, curiously enough, that the following very close compai'ibons result : — III II. .M.S. llcclii at Melville [sliiiid (luring 273 days . ,, Kiiteriirise, I'orl Leopolil ,, lle^uliite, (irillitli Istaiiil ,, Assistaiuv, Nortliiiiiil)erlaud Sound . . . Mean -lOIJ. - !)•.■) 7 -loMia -y'7H0 ■','!' ii' This result is truly amusing to ine ; and to those who do not enter into such discussions, the eni bono wet blankets on every scientific discussion beyond tlieir horizon, I would anticipate the (luestion — What do you learn from this ? To my mind, much of importance as regards hope ; definite orders for my officers, and some diminution of anxiety for those I send forth. Taking the comparison resulting from this season's registry, I Hnd, that we have yet to expect — 145G° more cold before the 1st of June, in order to compensate, or equal, that experienced during the last season ; and day by day as this is swept away, so will my contidence in my in- tended measures be slreiigtliened. .!*, I it' 1854. nKAPI'KAHANf'K OF TIIK Sl'N. 108 Fi'lriiarii o. — 'I'Ik; wciitliiT still reiiiniiis Hiiu, hut the temperature still eliii-^Mug to — \\\ . Vesterdiiy, inuler a chiuifTc of wind to tlu; northward, a |)oiut from wliieh it seldom Mows, we experieneed a fall of snow, the tempc- rntnrc dropping,', contrary to rule, as low as —50°; this was succeeded hy calm and a rise to —40°. After prayers today the hodies of our two men were interred in the same grave, with the customary solem- nities. I had already deferred it some days, in tlu; hope of milder weather ; indeed, in a great measure, to enable me to officiate in my proper place ; hut the sni)erstitiou9 feelings of tlu; crew were at work, and I thought it l)et- ter to stop talking and conclude the ceremony. The service was read by Commander Richards ; indeed I suft'ercd severely from the exposure, which sent me to bed with severe rheumatism, or, what 1 am more inclined to believe, an attack of jaimdice.* Fcfjruarj/ 12. — Of late most anxiously have our j)eo- ple been looking for the sun. On the 0th the refracted image was rejjorted to have been seen from tli(> hill, and on the day following the lower limb was reported by Conmiander Richards from the same position. With the return of the sun, the breeze also seems to accompany it, havhig blown in heavy gusts from the south-west, and during its greatest force last night the temperature rose from — 17° to —30°. I allude to this more ))articularly, as in former voyages the winds have ])revailed from tlu; north and west. VV^c have seldom been visited by strong winds, and never from the north-east to north-west. It is also remarkable that at Reechey Island, when they * rmiii this I (lid not recover for main weeks. ^mesea mm i a K ■ J". If '' •i ■ ll: •■■ ¥:i ■| h 104 SCORBUTIC AFFECTIONS. \Pebruary, experience strong southerly gales on the southern side, where the 'North Star' winters, no such breeze appears to extend up WeUington Channel, or even into Union Bay! The mean temperature of the last ten days affords the coldest, for the month, which I believe has been hitherto recorded, being ten degrees in excess of any experienced amongst Arctic navigators. When I give this as a re- cord, I beg it to be understood as the corrected tempera- ture of the mean of the ten best standard thermometers, supplied from the Observatories of Greenwich and Kew. II.M.S. Ilcclaiu 1S2U 32213° lS2-i 2()H-5 „ EiitiTprisc, 184!) 37570 „ Resolute, 1851 32675 „ Assistiiuee, 1853 28*753 „ „ 1854 +7-145 With reference to my own health, none but those immediately concerned may care to know that I sufi'cred j but in cases similar to mine, and where the disease (I mean scurvy) assumes such protean forms, it may not prove uninteresting to the general reader to learn upon what slender threads life may depend. I have before remarked, in the cases of liarriss and Burnett, that I con- sider the mind to have been materially engaged j and it is still my coacidion that had hope of innnediate remo- val to England been at all feasible, the lives of both these men would have been saved. But as regards my- self, although I had fully made up my mind to die and to rest from my labours in the Crystal Palace, I wm ? determined that I would continue, so long as life en- 1S54.] CRITICAL STATE OF HKALTH, 105 diired, to act up to the principle which I had ever main- tamed, not only in sickness but in all the concerns of professional life, " The man who gives way is lost." In this climate, and under the insidious undermining effects of close confinement, repeated inspiration of a vitiated atmosphere, absence of light, and, still more important, of the wonderful influence of the sun's rays, nothing but determination, and a thorough conviction of the para- mount necessity of exertion, will sustain a man in sound health, llow much more important then is it to the invalid, seeking almost reanimation ! Reduced as I am, and scarcely able to dress or wash myself, the effort to get out of a warm bed into an atmosphere of 37° required sonic degree of courage as well as endurance; but the reflection, that one day's in- diligence might for ever cut off the power, supported me. Once up and dressed, notwithstanding appetite was wanting to assist in nonrislung the body, still the occu- pation and excitement of the mind continued to afford its own peculiar and wonderful invigoration, for I have almost forgotten to state that, added to an almost hatred to food, I had little or no sleep, and had adopted a system of hourly visits to my cabin during the night. The theoretical vicAvs of this year as to changes at peculiar dates have been somewhat shaken by an inter- val almost of eight days. I had anticipated a break in the season, or a cessation of cold, about the 13tli of February. The temperature, it is true, is but -33°, and the old hands would lead us to believe that this is not too cold, and that even -40° would be bearable. It may be, for matter of boastj but for the feelings and well- I' f' i .'if w >l f M • ■ f. 106 PREPARATION FOR TRAVEL, [Fohruari/, being of my crew it is my business to arrange. I have therefore deferred the starting date to the 20th or 21st, and liave also determined to entrust the direction of the sledge force to Commander Richards. Upon the ques- tion of "orders" 1 am particularly sensitive. To my mhid they are the touchstone of command. It can only be coujpared with the horse and its rider : the determi- nation and abihty of the latter is conveyed almost in- sthictively by the rehi. The man who issues an order, withdraws it, and then issues the counterpart of the tii'st diminished in vigour, must be an object of ridicide. With me at present I have two uncontrollable matters to deal with — the temperature and the constitutions of my men. To this is opposed the eager spirit of ardent, indomitable courage, of men ready to obey more than 1 will venture to command. But with me rests the re- sponsibility : success redounds to their credit, but failure reflects on my judgment and capability for connnand. Can any one in England feel and understand such an in- tensely exciting position ? To send men into action, or lead them, requires no thought. Such deaths as would result are not inquired into, — they die with glory ; we are only to be compared to the railway engineers, who are accountable for the loss of every life, even by acci- dent or the visitation of Providence, and our dead, I fear, are ingloriously forgotten. The absence of Commander Richards at this period will be most severely felt. Indeed the gradual diminu- ti(m of otHcers, withdrawn by the successive sledges, will leave me without a companion beyond my kind profes- sional attendant, Dr. Lyall, and Mr. Loney. This may \ \ I 1854.J ADDRESS TO THE "REW. 107 !■ excite me to increased exertion ; and after I once get sight of the invigorating rays of the sun, I feel that im- provement nnist hv rapid. On tlie liJth of Febi-nary the temperature varied a little, rising as high as -23°, but has again fallen to -40°. and during the week the range has been between —23° and -41°, moan 3407° : the sun's ray^ have not as yet afforded any perceptible increase of temperature, nor do they at present contributr any " cheering light," being greatly impeded by a heavy, hazy, hanging atmosphere. We have just succeeded hi fitting sashes into our winter housing, which, I am told, afiords a very cheerful light to the quarter-deck, and enables invalids to enjoy exercise under a temperature of -22°, being 17° higher than exposed to the /m-eze outside, or, to the feelings, equal at least to 30° of cndtmince. Notwithstanding all that has been maintained about the travelling tenqjera- ture of —40° being bearable, I hear less of it this year; indeed I am inclined to think that the estimate has, by connnon consent, and common sense, fallen to —30°; and even f/iat is viewed with some apprehension. As the preparations were conqjlcte, and the parties told off for travelling were about to take their depar- ture, a written address was read to the crews ffenerallv approvnig, in strong terms, of their conduct last season, and expressing my full conviction that in the inqjortant duty on which they were proceeding, the same untiring energy and excnq>lary conduct would be n.ianifestcd, and expresshig a confident ho])c that my Lords Com- missioners of the A(hniralty would be pleased to reward lliose wjio had so greatly distinguished themselves. 108 DEPARTURE OF RICHARDS. Fefjrnari/, ft 'fW I I' w, ^ . i About nine on the morning of the 22ncl of Fchruary, yielding to the anxiety of Commander Richards to pro- ceed to Bcechey Island, in order to make due ])repara- tion from the materials available there for his expedition, and the temperature having risen to —35°, I determined to launch the ' Sir Edward' and ' Success' sledges, the former having seven and the latter eleven men, with Mr. Herbert, the Senior Mate, as his second. They were attended by all our spare population, and two sledge crews were specially told off to relieve them of half a day's hdjour at the drag-ropes, as well as to report upon the nature of the ice over which they travelled. This report was satisfactory ; they parted from them four miles in advance, with a clear floe in view and the men in high spirits. It is now incumbent on me to state what my plans were, and why I had selected Commander Richards to command this service, instead of, as I had before direct- ed, Commander PuUcn ; and I feel fully satisfied that my readers will feel with me that until facts, or want of facts, bore more strongly on the possible fate of Cap- tain Kellett's Division, it was not my province to issue orders which could indicate any contemplation of dis- aster. It must also be apparent to those who will refer to my parting with Commander PuUen, that I had only given him such instructions as would enable him to act if I did not form other views before the sprhig. From con- stant conversation during the winter, I saw the necessity of sending the next in command and next in seniority to Captain Kellett; I saw also the propriety of sending an officer to communicate, if possible, to him all my views »54.] iNsTnurrioxs. 109 —in which lio coincided— and to prevent any miscon- ception of my orders, which naturally would become his guide, should any fatal accident have deprived that Di- vision of Captain Kellctt. The simplest-minded person would therefore perceive that Commander Richards, only, could fultil all these duties. His instructions were as follow, and those for Captain KcUett were delivered to him unsealed, and intended to guide him until he met with that officer. By Captain Sir Edwakd Belcher, C.B., ConmimuUng ihe Arctic Sqiiadro)!. Having selected you for tlie very important command of the Division connected with the western search from J3ecehey Ishmd, ^ Yo..! V, ill repair forthwith to t lie ' North Stiir,' where Commander I'ulien lias l)ee.i instriu'ted to atlbrd you not only every iiossible assist- ance in your .juipment, but also to accompany and "receive from you his idtimate instructions, as in the enclosed packet, directed to him. 2. You will demand in writing all stores which you may rerpiirc from his vessel, and he is rcrpiircd to man three sledges ; commanded by himself. Lieutenant Cheyne, ami his Mate or Second Master, or as to you may appear most advisable. 3. To Lieutenant Cheyne, independent of my special instructions to him, you will give tlie command at Cai)c llotham, or, as circumstances may arise, either to him or Lieutenant May. The post is important, and, without any regard to seniority or rank, it must be maintained by the most efficient you can select before you finally cpiit Cape Hotham on your return. 4. The sledge force from this ship will include six.Avith three from the ' North Star,' amounting in all to eighty-seven men, with 4030 rations, the distribution of which is set forth in the accompanying tables. 5. The period of starting from the 'Xorth Star' must be governed by circumstances connected with temperature. Men who have to undergo the extended travel to which your crews will be subject must not be exposed to frost-bites, and 1 cannot perceive how they can safely take the floe before tiie termination of the first ten days of March. I ' r no oiurrTS OF search. Fobrnari/, W' 11 I ^\< t f 6. It is a jniy.'/.linjf (lutstion to arrive at any prociso period of parallel temperature. Tiie f^uess of last year, althoiif^h exact in every essential point, does not appear to conform this season to the general deduction resultiuff from the reports of my predecessors. Nevertheless, I will advise you to ((uit on the first decided rise of tenijjeraturc after the loth of March, and to mu'se your crewi from that date until the 23rd,* after which I consider absolute winter at an end and spring suddenly to conunencc. 7. Your first position will be on the east point of Assistance Bay, where Captain Kellett deposited 030 rations, less probably by 130 taken by the sledge crew which passed to the ' North Star;' 500 may therefore remain, to be examined by the relief parties following your traces. 8. Having reached this position, you will at once be able to discover whether the 'Intrepid' has been in the neighbourhood, or left any record of her movements or those of the ' Resolute.' 9. If any traces be there found, of course it will interfere, in some measure, with your westerly journey, unless the ' Intrepid' alone has progressed. 10. If the ' Intrepid' has left records of her easterly advance, then the orders to Commander I'ullen, Lieutenants May and Cheync, must be vigorously carried out. 11. Your precise duty is, to tmd Captain Kellett, to deliver to liini the accompaiipiig ins^vuctions, furnish him with every information he may rerpiire, and return to me with all possible despatch. 12. During your journey to the 'llesolute' you will decide on the most appropriate positions for depots. At present the islands appear to furnish the most direct lines. But you must take into consideration that as spring advances they must become surrounded by water and access barred 1 It will therefore be incumbent on you to fix upon de- cided points \\hcre the crew of 'Investigator' or Captaui Kellett may be certain of finding supplies without disturbing those especially set aside for the relief of our distressed countrymen. 13. Captain Kellett's second cache appears to be " about three miles west of Alison's Inlet," and i't present probably consisting of 1000 rations. However, it is probable that Captain Kellett, being iletained near this spot, landed the provisions. You will examine the * This slioidd be 31-4, adding eight days for the later season. These orders were written in .lanuarv. 185 I.. J RF.SdUnCKS FOH CAPTAIN COI.MNSON. Ill apot, and if lU'pessary, after rdcasiiijr T.iciiteiiaiit Afay at Cajti.' Coi.'k- burn, desire him to leave iustniptions for its removal toCajJC Cockbiirn. 14. All the depots for the return parties should be on the mainland, 80 us not to involve any water risk. 15. Captain Kellett will of eourse make <;()od the depots for any who may follow np his traek to (^apc Cockl)uri To that jiohit 1 shall direet our main sni)i)lics to !)(; pushed. 1(1. On your outward route it will very much coiduee to the com- fort of the travellers, as w(!ll as to their s])ee(l, if you desijrnate four distinct points between Cape Coekburu and Assistance Hay as cnvJirs, for you must consider them to he laden with documents, instruments, etc. ; say. Cape Cockburn, Frazer Point 'ape Kosse, and the eastern point of Assistance Bay. These will ensure safe in-shore travelling, "even if the watei makes." 17. On reaching Cape Cockburn on your return you will give such directions to any olUcers, commanding sledges, as may appear to you likely to aid the advance of the weak or invalids, either of ' Investiga- tor' or ' Eesolute.' If it be possible, I tiiink that one large sledge witli provisions up to l?yam Martin Island might be very grateful to the re- treating crews. But these remarks apply more directly to the sick and feel)le, particidarly to the crew of the ' Investigator.' They must form the First Division. 18. The Second will of necessity have to remain until the final necessary duties have been completc^d ; and as they will advance, forming caches, up to Byam Martin Island, you will assure them of all necessai-y supplies from Cape Cockl)uni easterly. 19. I now arrive at a more difficult question; — that is, the prol)a- bility of finding, before you reach Cape Cockburn, information of the movement of Cajitain Kellett last season, and of the unaccountable non-appearance of ' Iutre])id.' 20. iMy general measures have been adapted to meet this peculiar matter. Commander Pullen is instmeted to cross the Channel to Cape Bunny, and to move on to Port Leopold. 21. You will then have to select such a route as will deviate com- pletely from that pursued l)y him, taking probably that intended for Lieutenant ]May ; and you will give him one over n denaluKj line, but ensuring the visits of two or more officers to Cape Bunny, where I in- tend to establish the southern turning-post, and divert any travellers from Captain CoUinson to Beechey Island, instead of the misery they must inevitably encounter at Port Leopold. \'l , 112 lU'.POKTs OF vRof'KKDiNGS. \F('hrunry, J I ,, IH il \- ' 'i hi i 1 1- ■ \ 22. In this latter part of your Tnstnictioiis yon will have to bcnr in mind that you are scekinji persons, in all probability, in want of suste- nanee; and therefore no question of "expeditions trnvellinfj;" must bo suffered to interfere with the full load of provision wiiieh may be avail- able ; and yon must also bear in mind my object of placinp on Cape Bunny, on the eastern side of Peel's Straits, a largo coc/ip, in the evmt of Captain Collinson coming up that Channel or calling at Cape Walker on a northern march. Especial scaled notices will be supplied for that branch of the Searching Division. 23. By the accompanying table you will understand my final ar- rangements, by whi(!h the entire southern lines will be traversed by Conunander TuUen, Lieutcniant May, and possibly by Lieutenant Cheyne. 2'1-. Your provisions have been increased in bread and meat, under the conviction that on this second season men should eat all that appe- tite can render sahdn'ious. Indeed, it must be excited by herbs and other adjuncts supplied. I cannot therefore urge more than the pre- servation of all which is not consnmcu. 25. This docs not apply to spirits ; my own experience satisfies mo that the men are enervated even by their present allowance, and, imme- diately after it is drunk, are not fit for inidue exertion. It is possible that it may not injure them before sleeping, but its entire loss would not grieve me. 20. I now arrive at a subject which T would wish to avoid; but the duty I have to perform renders it imperative. I have to report "iiistan- ter" my proceedings. Under my former orders, unfortunately those of my predecessor, I enjoined journals " within a remonabJo period" after return. In some few eases they were sent in. But that order, or rather request (for it has not been responded to as an order), I shall super- sede. The custom of the service reciuires, copy of track-chart and re- port of proi^'cdings. This will enable me to execute my duty ; and I decline reeeving any further joimials, for which I shall hjive full rea- sons to give to my siqieriors, shoidd they require them. 27. You will therefore on your return furnish me, within forty-eight working hours, with your report of proceedings, track-chart, or the one yon mad(! use of, and explain verbally any matters I may not then ask for in writing. But your journal of jn'oceedings you will prepare for their Lordships. With matter concocted on board I have nothing to do : it belongs to your ])rivate journal. The idea of waiting three months for a report of proceedings is too absurd, mdess where daily verbal explanation has put me (ih ronrant with all that I required. n <.,i er 1854.] FNSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN KELLETT. 113 28 You nrc fun.i.ln.,| wi.h ..opi,. of ,„y fornuT onlcT. ,o Captain K ellc.tt. as u-,.l „,. to Con.n.an.ln- I'ulk.n, l.y ulueh you uill 1... ,n id.,] «^n no ™ct by these lustn.otions. You have also n.y iinal l.Ltruc- t.on. of th.s date to C.ptain K..ll..tt. These eannot he seah.l at pre sent, as they must iu so.uo ,h...v,. ^uide you; but you will .-onsider hem as 00.^,./.,//,,//^ „p,,„ to you, nntl seal then, luTore you deliv them to Captain Kellett. 2y. My -..n.Tal orders respecting notices and caims you will carry out and w>t out reasons to be explained, those relating to connnands ol sledges will of course be observed. 30. You will, in the full spirit of the Instructioas, draw up, durin- your detention at the ' Xorth Star,' sueh further hints f.r tin- office'^ elt in eommaiid as may prevent any misconception of the duties in- eii.led. I will further send especial orders by the next Division as to the s(>con(l journeys of the sledges to Assistance Bay. 31. Eveiy possible facility has been afforded t^ you for the mo^t perfect equipment of the sledges placed under you'r direction; and l>aviiig full confidence in you, and that your energy will be fully ade- quate to the arduous service ..ntrustcd to your command, I now com- mend you and your gallant companions to the care of the Great Dis- poser of events, praying earnestly that your return in safety may be attended with the welcome inteUigcnee of the weU-bcing of Captain Kellett s Division. * G-ivm mukr my hand on board Her Majesty's Ship Asmtance, tJm Voth day of February, 18 St, in the WellmytoH Channel. Edwaj^d Belcher, To CoMM.XNDER RicHARDs, H.M.S. Assistance. It was not my intention to have troubled my readers with the specific Instructions to Captain Kellett, but events immediately succeeding render it almost imj)e- rative. The original, penned on the 15th of October, 1853, I had considered undeniably distinct, and, had Commander Richards, by demise, succeeded to the command, would inevitably have met with unmediate obedience VOL. II. ^ I 114 IF TRACES BK FOUND, \F('hruary, Mi: I By Sin EnwATiD Kelciikh, A7., C.h., Cnptani of Ifcr Majcsftf's Ship Jsaintaiice, and in Command of tin' Jrclic Si'arcliint/ Squadron. In consequence of luldilioiml Instnicliona I'urnislied to nu' l)y my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, it becomes my duty to forwrd to you certain directions for your guidance. 2. In tlu! absence of any information of your movements since Com- nunu'er liichards (juitted yon on the 8tli of June, 1853, I nnist con- clude, from your letter of that date, that you are at this moment al Melville Island ; <3. Or have made the attempt to reach Ikechey Island. 4. Further: the result of your spring searches after Sir John Frank- lin or Captain CoUinson being unknown to nu', I am reduced to tlie necessity of assumtHff cases on which to found instriictiona. 5. The first and absorbing interest is tlu; fate of the crews of the ' Erebus' and ' Terror.' Should any reliable traces have been disco- vered, you will of course adopt such decisive measures for following them up as appear requisite, apjjrising me with all despatch of every particular, and suggesting any nuitters which may enable \w. to afford you that vigorous support which such a discovery would infallibly call forth from the tine body of men engaged in this enteq)ris(!. 6. You wouhl therefore direct the instant return of Commander I'ul- len,* so that I may be enabled to double the caches which I intend p\ishing forward this spring towards Cape Capel, in order that the main or midway depot may be satisfactorily completed without, if pos- sible, trenching on the necessary supplies for your parties seeking Bcechcy Island. 7. Of course the above contingency would entirely change the fea- tures of our Expedition, which would date de novo from the ensuing spring. o. Under such circumstances, should the trace prove westerly, I should adopt measures for reinforcing the Western Division by the ad- vance of a ship or steamer to Cape Capel, and forming a new depot on Byam Martin Island, as well as one easterly, near Ca})e Ilotham. 9. In order to meet any such possible ease I have furnished Com- mander Pullen with a copy of these Instructions. He will himself carefully watch on his advance for any eligible position. 10. And distinct orders will be given to each officer in command of the Commissariat sledges to remain at, examine, and leave his distinct * Then charged with this duty. i i I i A I 11 1854.] TO LEAVli ONK VESSEL. 115 report on the localitioH ulwrc rarhrn ,nnv 1).- IV.rin.'.l, m Hint no .Iclny mny occur on the castom route to bt- taken by returnin- |K,rtie8. U. Failiiifi;, however, in this nio.st important feature of uiy ln.,tnie- tions, I nuist direct your attention to the next in intercHt.-tho traces of Captain Collinson. 12. If you should discover that he had followed up the track of th.- ' Investi-ator,' and it appeared likely to you that lie niiKlit seek UA- viHc Island; 13. I would iMiKgest to you the necessity of leaving the ' Kesolute' there, or at a more advanced position, for his use, and coming on with the 'Intrepid' to the Half-way Dep^.t near Capo Capel. It. Of course Comnumdcr M'Clurc will have left all the necessary niforuu.tion, „ot only at the ' Investigator,' but at every mailable point or projection, which may enable Captain Collinson, without risk, to reach the dei)ot left by you at Melville Island.* 15. If, on the other hand, you should not discover any trace of Captain CoUinson, you will adopt the necessary measures" for com- pletnig the chain of cac/ies up to the Ilalf-way i)(!pot, at, or near to, Cape Capel. And taking into consideration their Lordships' Instruc- tions to me, you arc at liberty to d(^tcrmine, on reachhig that locality whether you will leave the « Resolute' or ' Intrepid' as a depot One mist be left. 16. You will be guided in the matter, "with or without a crew," mth reference to volunteers, provisions, and the physical condition of those wilhng to remain. Hut you are clearly to iinderstand my mean- mg :— that only in the event of your being in possession of sujjicienlh reliable authority that Captain CoUinson is yet nimmt and adcaucing arc you to leave a crew. 17. It is very clear to my mind that if Cajjtain Collinson has not been heard of, in time to inform, me before next Awjmt, from Enghuid, that no good can accrue by leaving a crew belnnd,— when we well know that they can, if ncccssaiy, be forwarded from Becchey Island fully in time to answer any useful purpose. 18. These matters disposed of, I must now revert to the equally important consideration of yourself, officers and crews, now detained by this untoward season. I have, it is true, no possible information to guide me as to whether you cpiitted ]\Ielville Island accompanied by * He did not prosecute the back search, as I imagined he would have done. r I 2 no OUDI'.U lo WirilDUAW cltl'Ws. rch 'iriiK >'!/' k i( . \ :.' i i ii 1 1 I,- 1 I ( II' i tlif ' Intr('|ii(l," or wlullicr ynii (Irspatclntl llic ' liiln'|ii(l' lofwiinl with 111!' cnw of llic ' luvcsli^iitor :' you iiiiiy, iiidci'il, liiivc Ijccii fiili'mnu'd iiH llic ' AssisliMicc' if*.* 1!». 1 1 is liowcvcr of I he itlmod litijiofldiiri-, niid uiiml y'lvUl to cri'ni iilhci- riiiivilfi-nHoii, lliiil the rrcw ol" the ' liivtstiiiiilov' \w lorwiinlid, iii(ic|)rii(liiil oi' tiic iiiicci'liiiiily (»r ()|iru watii' iii^l s(ii-lim(l, if pomlilc, hefon- tiic iniddir or.liiiic. 2M. In order to scciiri' tins dcsinililc olijcct, 1 sliidi sii|)c'riiilcMd tliii" duty in person, nd\inieinj{ not only sledsics hut l)Oiits to ('iijie llotliinn. nnd iido|)t otlier meiisures lor tlie retreiit ol'//r)/'y' cnllrf imi'I'ifx. 21. ir liie Wilier slionld niiike early and release tliis slii|) and ' I'io- neer,' uiK or hotli may lie advanced to your support ; but 1 niueli fear any release to this slii|) until llii' extreuie of the season. 22. I shall niyseir repair to the ' North Star' and assume I he direc- tion of all'airs there until the anticipated arrival and (h'parlure of Hie relief which will, in all probability, be all'orded by their Lordships; for Ihe fate of all, w Ik'U Commander In^lelield departed, was problemalieal. llis nsstttn])tion that it was niy intention to return to Kiii^'iand this season is without foundation, and of this my despatch will iuforni their Lordships. 2;'. All will depend on the report of Commander I'uUen : ho is by me, knows my intculions fully, and will clear \\\i any donhlx. 21. L'ldess distinct and umuistakablc evidence is adduced bcarin;; on the traces of Sir .lohn Franklin or Captain Coilinson, you arc to consiih'r that you arc hereby directed to rejoin me ai I5eechey IMand with all possililc desjjatch, subject only to the deviations in paragrajihs 11, 13, and 11. 25. 1 think 1 have now relieved you from any possible doubts as to your mode of proceeding and the intentions of Her Majesty's Govern- ment. 2(). You will forward to me every possible docuuu'Ut by Conimaiider ruUen which may enable me to iiifurm their Lordships of our latest proceedings, and which may possibly be forwarded by mt^ before any ])ossibility exists of your rcjoinini;' me at Becchey Island. 27. 1 have been thus eiveuinstantial in every point in order to free you from every possible miscouceptlon, and I have forwarded to you a copy of their Lordships' Instructions to me, in order that you may fully understand their wishes. ' f * Too true. II |S54. AUUITION.M, INNIItLCilU.NS. il7 2H. llaviiiM- ,|,„i,. tliii. niMi'li, ntid rrhiwj; fiillv on .\our wull-tricd Zfiil iiixl al.ililx, I Hrl iMs.nr.l (liat „,/>/ M-io/nj,^ uill ,iri.,. s,)K |y Ciom fllClllllsliilKTr. (IMT \\|li(.||yy/< /,,„•,' „„ nnilfol. 21J. And iK.H, coiniiiiltiiii,' voii k. iliai mciviliil DispoMr uf .m..,!., who liaj..<.ii iimiix ucca.u.iiN iiiliijMH.d liis imwcifiil aid in <.nr ivm'i.c, I Icncntlv pniy lur llu' niliiv ivuiiiun of oiir al |.irs(iil (lisj(,iut(il' ■Si|iiadri,ii ill hcallli, \in'oiii', and i)ros|)crilv. (Iin-ii iniili-i- iinj l,„,iil llii.s 1 ,■>//< ,l„i/ ,,/' Oc/o/jir, lX.")3. ijti Imiird llir .Unjr.sli/ >, S/ii/i ./,v,»/.v/. '/'" CaI'TAIN IllAKY Kin.I.KTT, (.'.15., II. M.S. AHKiitance. Kdwauij Hi;i,< iii.i(. As the nppointiiiciit of C()miium(li.T Kiclimds to this service, and iiiutiirer tlioujrht, hiiil very imicli eoiirirmcd me as to what tin- country expected I'roni me, I added I lie following: — [Coiifiih'iilial.' 11. M.S. .IxKixtdHCi; qlf' C(i/K- O.hurn, Fr/iriKiri/ l.s/, ls,")i. Sn{,--ln ni.v lonuir I nstructions of October, I iiad iiol so ud) cou- ^ill(■lvd maltrrs an at tlic piT.seiit moment, and it occurs to me (liat I Jiavcnot been so preeist; or ur^'ent as the nature of thiir Lordsjdps' intentions require. Wt^ mv not now left to our own feclin;;s, our zeal, or our ju(|H-mc„t, and we know not wiial may be the onhirs which will arrive in July m- Ai-nst; but I can yom,r* them, and it becomes my dutv to nurt llicm in the same spirit. Tukin-- into consideration "thereibr.' that simihn- onh^rs will be -iven rcsp.'clinsr the next steamer, she camu)t be retained beyond the 1st of J^eptember. Whatever powers may be left to me to await your extrication, I must send iionie every soul who is useless heiv, or whoso dcnlh may result from that oozing out of fancied zeal wliich brought them here. Von must therefore read the 1:5th, lHh, l.'ith, l(;th,and 17lh para- graphs as deliiiitive orders for a/muilu,tnu;il to all who are not to stay * I was right. .i! lis NO VOLUNTEERS. \Fef)mary, ; R « '' behind, and I sec no use (myself), not being in a position to judge, of leaving a crew if the vessel is safely placed. TLc facility, or other- wise, of Rieliards's ent(ni)ri3e mil guide you better than anything I can advance. I prefer, if new hands are sent out, tliat the depot shall be at Becchey Island and Port Dundas, of which inquire of llichards. But bear in mind that the lives of all " the touched" must be secured by their presence at Beechey Island before the 1st of September. I may scud away 'North Star' even before that date with invalids and 'Inves- tijrator's.' Under every advantage I cannot see the prospect of your release past Cape Ilotham before the 1st of September ; the steamer might (?); but I have some idea that if you abandon it will be at Melville Island, for I can readily imagine the pains and penalties of such a proceeding before reaching a place of security, and where indeed such an act might be more than hazardous, I have not tlie sliglitest conception how many might be induced to remain out in any of the vessels ; but as far as I can sec into the con- stitutions of those who have been out before, and talk most, I should not think it safe to leave any volunteers bei/ond Beechey Island, not for want of spirit, but from the chance of inahiUly to travel at the required moment. This becomes a matter beyond surgical advice. We who have commanded so many years know full well how budtlenly, wjtho'it «lisease, men droop and will not recover, — in fact, make up their ramus to die. I have many men fit to travel forty miles to the ' North Star,' but it would go hard to make them tra ■ A from Northumberland Sound had wf been frozen in tliere all this season. Indeed, it is a matter beyond our feelings ; ami as I can only read their Lordships' intentions to mean that a cr;'>v was to be left, if I thought proper, in September last : if it be their intention, and they will know if it be important by tlie failure of intelligence from Captahi Collinson, fresh volunteers will be sent fi'oni E]\gland, Captain iUch( >'ds ii/iii/ however inform you of my reasons for vioving east to Port l'"://das before the season closes, as I hare strong suspicions that the fate of Sir John is to be soiiyht southerly of Lancaster Sound, (Uiil the assistance of the interpreter of the ' Investigator' is important. I do not perceive that yon have taken Commamhn- M'Clurc under M)Ui- (uniniiind; 1 tlicrcrcu'c, to |)laee this matter l)eyond any possible (liml)t. t'n('lo.-ic i() yin; \\\v ve(|uisitc order, iiud ymi will liciir him and t t 1854.J SEMI-OFFICIAL EXPLANATION. 119 officers and crew on your books as " Supernumeraries for Victuals and Wages," but not doing ,hity unless by your order, in which you will be guided by the Admiralty Instruetions. Shoidd Captain Collinson fortunately reach, you will pursue the same course, and not under any comideration risk the dete/idou of an- other season. Th-se are the vieics of Government ; and having so far explained myself, 1 will not hamper yon with any further Instructions, than meet me at lieechcy Island, with the crews of all vessels, before the "iWi of August. Trusting to an AU-mereiful Providence that you may be able safely to eflect this, and that we may all meet in health and cheerfulness at Beechey Island, Believe me, faithfidly and sincerely yours, Edward Belcher, Captain, _ -, , Commanding Arctic Squadron. To Captain Henry Kellett, C.B., II.M.S. liesolute. It is unnecessary to trouble my readers with private matters, but my explanatory letter of the 12th of Febru- ary, which accompanied this, and demi-official, runs :— • I foresee their Lordships' next Instructions, and under this con- viction have sent you orders to abandon. It is impossible to tmst to tiie middle of August ; last year the 'Phoenix' left on the 26th, and / even doubt if she got home safely ! I know, my good fellow, how troublesome it is to make a resolution when no orders cover it ; there- fore 1 have been so cvplicit with you, and put it beyond the power of those at home to tell me I should have been decisive (as they did when Monypenny walked off with the barge). It is clear now that no shij) can be of any use westerly of Beechey Island if you secm-c ' Ee- soh'.te' in any safe position, for the facility with which llichards will reach you will place such matters beyond doubt. * * * I have a strong impression that Collinson will either come up Peel Strait towards Leopold Island, or meet Kae and accompany him to the Hudson's Bay Settlements. There too 1 see a failure : he would not have boats to carry them. But knowing of ' North Star' at Beechey Island, he nnist naturally be drivcTi to prefer this route, with the cer- tainty of a steamer to take him home in August. Those observations wore written tuulor tho impression ifl ^i r Mi; i 't; -'i : •} 1 V. I f th 120 VIEWS UELATivn TO ESQUIMAUX. {Fehr'Miry. that M'Cluie had tried back and left inforniatiou for Captain Collinson. IIow 0(1(1 if the steamer had to eurry home the Captains of five ships, besides tenders : yet such may be the case ! As to poor Sir Jolin and Crozier, that affair must be for ever decided. I firmly be- lieve he was seen in Prince H'-gent Inlet by the natives, reached Union Bay, there got damagea, and tried to get home, I have never ceased to think about those seams of oakum. I have a strong presentiment that those natives at Dundas Harbour know something of Franklin, and I shall try hard to get a party down there with the first open water, and hope Mr. Miertsehing may arrive in time to join them. They have evidently robbed the depot at Xavy Board Inlet, as Ingleiield found the doctors' scales, jars, part of a lime- juice case, etc., among them. They had also robbed the cairns of notices, and who knows, as Ommanney's was purchased last year, that when they return home, finding paper a valuable article of traflic, they may produce some record of Franklin ? Such were tlie communications forwarded by Com- mander Richards, and, as I deemed, to a second in com- mand, decisive. ]l I :i 1 1 ,1 I 121 CHAPTER IV. Land reached. — lee-gaiigc placed. — Ice Tai)le. — Second Sledges leave. — Obsenatious on Tliermometers. — Absence of Nortli and South Winds. — A Clever Wolf. — Wines frozen. — Capture of a Fox. — i'n- due Cold. — Indications of the Season. — A Hare, shot. — Arrival of Lieutenant Hamilton. — Establishment of Caches. — Ca[)tain Kellett's Proceedings. — Return of M'Clintock. — Abundance of Game. — J'osi- tion of ' Livestigator' and ' Eesolute.' — Insecurity. — Coniminiieation impracticable. — Allotment of Crews.— Health of Crews. — Deaths. I SUCCEEDED today in reaching the land, and strolled along the first terraced level, from which I obtained a fair view of the Channel, and am inclined to think that ap})earances at present are in favour of our getting out of this trap in summer, if not clogged by Admiralty Or- ders ; I mean, as to imperative return of the steamers sent to our relief If the open water about Eecchey Is- land permits of the detention of the vessels there, it may be possible that 'Assistance' and 'Pioneer' may be ex- tricated in tune to prevent the very great mortification of abandoning our homes and all our valuables ; for having experienced one heavy loss in the ' Samarang,' 1 have no wish to conclude it more decidedly. Two fires are deemed to be certain ruin. HI ll r '1 H ■— vv^CSi k i i;i^ :! ! lr>, t l;l i: r 1) ',1 . ; I' . I,' 12il ICE-GAUGE PLACED. \Fehmary, February 24. — In November last I alluded to experi- ments then commenced, in order to determine the very contradictory assertions made as to the r-^tio in which salt-water ice, or the floe, freezes. In order to test this question satisfactorily, I caused a wooden tube to be formed, having its two opposite sides partially open ; in fact, the two complete and parallel sides were simply re- tained in their position by battens. This tube was inserted in a hole cut on the smoothest part of the floe, the surrounding ice being of very even thickness, viz. eighteen inches. A cross batten on the upper surface was placed, not only for the piu^ose of upper level gayge and suspension, but also to determine if any increment took place ou the upper surface by evaporation fiom beneath, or from consolidation of the superior snow by a similar action of escaping vapour; or, in plain terms, two questions were to be solved : — 1. Does the ice increase solely from the water be- neath ? Or, 2. Does it owe any part of its increase either to va- pour escaping (on freezing) by percolation through the crust, and consolidation above ? On radii, from the gauge as a centre, holes were cut every ten days, and the thickness of the ice strictly gauged. The result on withdrawing the gauge at the end of 110 days affords the following table, which, as the batten still occupied its original position, also proved that the increment has been solely from beneath. The tube was inserted November 5 ; the upper level, five feci six inches ; ice thickness, eighteen inches ; space I above gaug<' eigliteen inches. fci ■• . i 1S54.J ICK TABLE. 123 Date. Thick- ness. Days. Hate. Mean. Max. Mill. Nov.5,1853 18 in. » 25 28 20 050 in 25-750° + 2° 37-00° Dec. 5* 36 10 0-80 24-128 -12 36-00 „ 15 3'J-5 10 0-35 31-936 -19 40-00 » 25 44 10 0-45 28-028 -10 39-00 Jan. t, 1854 54 10 i-oo 17004 + 20 -40-00 „ 14 51 10 0-35 37-228 -24 -45-00 „ 24 54 10 0-35 43-952 -27 54-75 Feb. 3 59 10 0-50 47-302 -28 -59-25 „ 13 G3 10 040 45-899 -33 -55-75 „ 23 t Mar. 5 C7 02 10 10 0-454 35-301 32-733 -23 10-00 -45-00 45-02 » 15 05 10 . . 34029 19-00 49-02 „ 25 68 10 29-659 12-50 43-00 The table indicates nearly an average increase of ice of half an inch per diem, from which I derive the follow- ing inference. That as the sea is, during the winter, constantly in a condition to freeze upon the sHghtest decrease of tempe- rature, that Nature kindly interposes her good offices to prevent its freezing solid to the bottom, by the compen- sation derived from the accumulation of heat beneath the frozen crust, resulting from the law of heat and vapour evolved in the act of freezing. This collection of globules of warm air may be dis- * There is some doiiLt about this measurement. \ Tliis concludes the tabh-. as far as the fiauge is concerned. ■ . I : r i h I '1 • il III ! 1 '< ( I 124 SECOND SLKDUES LEAVK. \ Fcdf/ni/y, tinctly traced in spring, on the under siu'face of what is termed lioney-conil)ed ice ; indeed its action is as wonder- fully correct as the boring of the teredo, leaving clean, smooth-bored holes through seven feet ice, as if it had been the result of some sharp auger or cutting instru- ment. Fehrnarij 28. — The temperatures remaining high, and the anxiety of some of our sledge parties leading them to })refer braving the cold to inactivity, I despatched two more sledges, under the conunand of Lieutenant May, to the ' North Star,' the probabilities being in favour of tem})crate weather for the next six days at least. This being the conclusion of February, I find that our mean for the month is nearly the coldest on record, cer- tainly the coldest for this month experienced by any of our Arctic Expeditions. January. February. Ilecla EiitCTprise Resolute (Austin) . . , Assistnnce (Belcher), 1853 . Assistance, 1851 . . . -30-00° 35-70 31-00 10-37 10-851 -32-19° 35-20 32-00 29-39 10-217 :-i In the determination of the temperatures here T nnist again reiterate the observation, that these results are the mean of thirteen thermometers (standard), and registered two-hourly, so that the results are indisi)utab]e. During this season the contraction of the mercurial thermometers below the graduation of — SD'S" has been most narrowly 1854.] OBSERVATIONS ON THERMOMETERS. 125 watched. From these registries it is evident that the freezing-point docs not confine its further retrogression, and that, after contracting to 41°, or below, it will still indicate a niotion above or below 41°, or, in other terms, is not solidly congealed. These observations, noticed in the Appendix, as compared with the action of the spirit thermometers, may afford interesting matter for those inclined to pursue this subject. Notwithstanding this peculiar disposition of the mer- curial thermometers, it cannot but prove a source of great satisfaction to those who have bestowed so much pains on these delicate instruments to learn that, under all changes, both spirit and mercury have been found so closely to coincide. Another fact, entirely incomprehensible to me, occurs with regard to thermometers used for water purposes, either in the sea or in the wet and dry bulb thermo- meters; these, although agreeing perfectly before sub- jection to moisture, disagree completely for many days after depriving them of their covering, or completely dry- ing them. A pair of the most perfect, now before me (belonging to the wet and dry bulb), undergoing clean- ing prei)aratory to fresh clothing, have for three days aftbrd(!d two degrees of difference ! and yet for weeks, during the wintiu" of 1852-53, they coincided at every division ! March 4. — I have not progressed towards recovery as I had anticipated ; in fact, I learn that this is not a climate to trifle with. Undue exertion of the lungs (reading the service on Sunday) has thrown me back and confined me to cabin exercise. The following ideas have lately been I 51 p> :' I' 126 ADSENCE Ol' NORTH AND SOUTH WINDS. [^MurCu, i .'r ' ,!■!■ . t ) •■' y impressed on me: — 1. Never to pass over, as unworthy of thought, after the first year particularly, any symp- toms simi'ivr to rheumatism, affection of chest or voice, discoloration, emaciation, etc., but at once meet the ques- tion by full diet, stimulated even by curries, etc. Ex- ercise is important ; injudicious exposure to severe cold should not be risked. This probably has been my fault, or possibly not quite my own, for my preaching has ever been, " not to expose the lungs unnecessarily to a lower temperature than can be avoided." Latterly our upper deck, under the housing, has maintained a higher tem- perature by nineteen degrees above the external atmo- sphere, with a complete shelter from the slightest breeze. March 5. — Om* last ten-day temperatures afford, min. —45-62°; max. -16°; mean, -32-733°. We have not, for a long period, been visited by any strong winds, but it now threatens in squalls from the south-cast or off the land. Notwithstanding it has not yet been felt by us, we are still annoyed by the peculiar whistling aloft, with rapid scud, attended by the unmusical beating of the small ropes against the masts. Upon a careful review of the winds I find that no strong wind from south, round by the west and thence to norf/i, or over the western half-circle, has prevailed for twenty-four hours, or blown with any force since we have been here, now nearly six months. The question natiu-ally arises, Are we to expe- rience it in July and August, with the ice in motion ? If so, our position will be one of intense anxiety. Upon a cursory review of the documents of Mr. Ken- nedy, published in the papers laid before Parliament re- lative to his southern journeys, I notice that at the very 1854.] A CLEVER WOLF. 127 periods which lie happens to select for his winter excur- sions are those on which our lowest temperatures were experienced. This is highly important, as confirmatory of the frequently asserted theory of the maintenance of heat, or rather of a milder temperature, in snow-houses. He may therefore be supposed to have endured in his travels at least 50° to 55° below zero (external atmo- sphere) in January and February (when we experienced it as low as —58° and —63°), without, as far as I can learn, complaining ! March 7. — Frequent allusion to the visit of a wolf has been made in these pages. In then- natural state doubt- less wolve:, possess cunning, but this individual seems to have profited by his repeated visits, and had so far be- come familiarized with our dogs that they hav3 accom- panied him, her, or it, and been wounded in tlieir quar- rels. These visits, however, prejudiced our chances of obtaining hares, ptarmigan, or even bears ; and the in- genuity of our keenest sportsmen was taxed, either to shoot him from the ship, or induce him to commit an act oi felo de se, by the interposition of a delicate morceau attached to a double-barrelled spring gun. For some nights he has been eagerly watched, and last night the report of the gun announced, as every one thought, his destruction, and to our imagination, from the proximity of the bait to the muzzle of the piece, at least headless j but he proved too cunning. He had abstracted the bait by a side motion, and this morning was noticed on the hill astern, narrowly watching the proceedings of those engaged in furtlier schemes for his destruction, exult- ing possibly in his superior intellect. Jack, with his fit I \- ■^■^^^^^ 'w'-.! '^ r < ' I > 'H % II / Jl i ' ' 128 WINKS FROZKN. [Marc/i, customary superstition, has declared him " charmed," and that he is one of the officers of the ' Krebus.* It is a ri(hcnlous feehiig ; yet vvlio is free from it ? Indeed, I have been so far, at times, a victhn to some such feehng, as even to attacli the name of one of my friends to this cunning visitor ! Ma/c/i II. — Further experiments were made today on the freezing temperatures of port-wine, sherry, and lime-juice : these of course woidd vary acconUng to their respective ingredients. I sliall therefore merely observe that the fluids under experiment froze as fol- lows : — Tlic SheiTv l)ccnino frozen (soft) at 10° Port . .' 12 Lime-juice 10 But the latter had not frozen to the core at — 10°, which induces me to doid/ very many rej)orts of jars found broken in the hold, as behig truly attributable to low temperature ; other fluids, as vinegar and pickles, did not burst the cask-heads ! March 15. — Oiu- ice-gauge having been raised, we content ourselves with the simple measurement of the in-shorc ice, principally with the intent of discovering the approximate moment when the sea-water season ter- minates; or when the ice crystals, constantly per grading the sea beneath the floe, cease to attach themselves to the under surface, and thus increase the homogeneous- iiess of the floe. Our thickness today affords sixty-five inches, = five feet five inches, and the last ten-day tem- })eratures as under : — M;,A -19U0°; ruin. -41)fi2°; mean, -34-629°; lu'cvious, -32-733°. \ i8r)4.] CAPTnU', Ol \ FOX. 100 Our last Division Ims hcon diluml to this \)\vcx)n- ocivrd (liitc, ill the cxixTtatioii of a decided cliangi, of season; niid the temperature haviii-,' risen to -2:r, and the wind hilled, I determined to push forward Messrs. Grove and Piin, with the ' Danntless' and ' Reward,' on the morrow, slionld the weather continue propition.s. Mfor// 10. -With a Hue fair wind and liglit hearts, attended by an anxiliaiy crew, onr friends departed, and, as onr sledges are now good sailing vessels, and, T may add, wi'll handled, they soon overran their jog-trot speed, sending hack onr auxiliaries ; and, as the breeze shortly after freshened considerably, I trust they may not only make considerable progress, but also keep themselves comfortable l)y the exercise necessary to keep u[) with their "craft." Another inducement caused nie to send them off today, and tliat was the probability that Com- mander Ricliards would, for the same opinion which I have stated, make this his starting-day from Bcechey Island without waiting for their last sledges. The in- crease of wind here furnishes no clue to the weather a few miles southerly. There abrupt cliffs, varying from seven hundred to eight hundred feet, afford" comi)lete shelter from all winds ranging from north-easterly to south (true) ; and when we experience a galo here, they may be in perfect cairn : at times however they may ex- perience a gale from the opposite (piarter ! Our return party reported that Grove had captured a fox (in one of our indeftitigable Boatswain's traps), " and persuaded him to volunteer to accompany them to Bcechey Island." In all cnses where; theories are advanced and reasons appended, it is but fair to state when and how they fail. VOL. II. ^ [ -~-'» ?•• !■-<»•■ I! I : In. ^ ■'I : ■I ^ iif, m !■■■ ^ t ' ' !: i I'M) VSUVV. COM). [JA/yv//, Tlicy nrc hut {iiicsscs, foimdcd, if is tnu', on vvlmt Nature has wamuitt'd. My tlu; ordinary course oi' rcasoiiiiif^, this galf, to which it has nt length arriv(!(l, shoidd have tL,»- niiimted, or hlown out, at 1.15 p.m. tochiy, or, l)y the other law, connnenced and continncd tor fourteen days. In these latitudes, liowever, no gnles hlow contin\iously hoyond twenty-four hours, and our sure guide " of its heart being broken" is the (Hniinution of teniperatun; ; below —40° it does not blow liard, and at —(5(1° wind is not experiencctl. But our winter lu're must be something akin to Na poleon's estimate of some of the Duke of Welhngton's battles — " lie ought to have been beaten." 8o in oiu* case, according to the mininuun degree; of cold diifused over the same number of days in p- luling seasons, the amount dn(! to the; year has already 'ii exceeded, and we have every reason to expect milder weather; but stern Winter says, No ! and to no Innnan being here in- carcerated is that " No" of such importance as myself, — or rather to this service, as regards my intended journey to the ' North Star' before the 1st of May, JMarcli 19. — The ])reeze has failed and the tempe- rature again fallen to —40°. We have not been visited by the old noises termed " bolt-breaking" for some time, but last night the outer ice evinced great uneasuiess, and reports of heavy and repeated cracks were heard during the whole night. From the report of those sent to ex- amine the outer ice, I gather that the exterior ice already exhibits large rents, and the fissures generally seem to indicate a probability of ofF-shore leads whenever the ice is relieved from off-shore pressm'c. To those accustomed ■I I 185 t.] INUltATlONH UK TIIK Si;.Vh()N. i:n to viovv thcao matters it will of coiirso Im- nppan iit ; but to the uiiinitint(!(l it mny he ncrcssiiry to explain, thai this (lisjoeatcd state of tlie otf-lyiiig /u/d- affords iis better grounds for release tlian if we had been frozen up in Hiuooth rontiuuous ttoc; of «'(pial thiekness, as the pack •nvariably fails asunder at the first thaw, and may cither float ofT or be comj)rcssed into smaller space, and thus atibi'd si)aco for mulioti, the great desideratum in these cases; on the other liaiul, when the floe is contimious and of equal thickness, it is only disrupted by forces which wo lid entail destruction on our insignilicant vessels. My own conviction is, that no opinion as to ultimati; release can be formed on this side of Ikechey Island, and then not before July or i)robably until the 'I'hxd of August, notwithstanding the unprecedented o\)v\\ water found here on the 14ih of the latter month in YSU'I, and that, as it ajjpears by rejjorts of not many houj-s later, was closed almost to boats. Last year Connnander Pullcn, on his lirst journey to Cape Beclier, on the 10th of April, found the ice very treacherous with many pools of water ; but then we ex- perienced many warm days during the months of Fe- bruary and INIarch. But the open water afjove our pre- sent position and that below, or southerly to licechey Island, are dej)endent on very different conditions. We know, from actual experience now, that the Polar Sea may be open and in active motion as early as the ISth of May, as noticed on that date from Britannia Cliff", and we also know that the sea was open on the 1 Ith of July, last season, at Northumberland Sound, 3et still sealed K 2 I- M t - ~i:JZi'"'*'»*=^-— '- .w...^-^fa«mi^i«^i535aaai I .i^ 1 j f !fe J ■ ■i i it / f tf '1 ; 1 i 1 4 )l r 1 •!( Ii.n i;l If i!j :i f Mi fii ■-it '^ I! 132 A IIAHK SHOT. [Mftrr/i, near Tlninilton Isliiiid late in August. Hut to my mind the cause is very clear — as clear as the North Sea and Britisli Cluuinel flood-tides meetiuy; at hii>li water near Dover. North of oiu' present position, the flood-tide sets in from the I'olar Sea and Lrings its warmer oceanic water ; southerly, the flood has to pass up Lancaster Sound, then to be deflected up this channel, and makes high water somewhere between this and Becchey Island; lu'nce the inaction hi this particular neighbourhood when ti:<' sea may be open both adore and /jc/o/o, and oven if open ofY-shore, may never release this ship from her pre- sent })rison. But until every matter requisite for her extraction is foirly prcpai-ed, and nothing left but taking advantage of the first lead, I do not quit my post here. March 22. --Today my Coxswain, George Stares, one of Sir John ILchardson's crew in Canada, asked permis- sion to take the gun to try for some game for me, and before noon returned with a fine vouu"; hare of last sea- son, a male, weighing ten pounds, but when his skin and entrails, etc., were taken aw^ay, not above four pounds of meat remained ; his food had been lichens, grass, etc. The arrival was somewhat opportune, as the very nien- tiou of food had become almost unpleasant; but the hare, if not overcooked, I could attenqit, and with some degree of (joiit. The evil of all the preserved meats supplied for this service is, their being overdone and unpalatable to a tender stomach. March 2G. — Yesterday the ice gauged five feet eight inches, which exhibits but very slight increase during the last thirty days. Indeed it is my intention at the expiration of the next term (on the 4th of April) to lift ,1 ■ I i i; ■ 1 854. J TJlOUOIITiS ON COMING KVl'.NTS. I ;};J a large cube, in order to ascertain if the lionevcoml), due to any increase of temperature of the sea, can be de- tected. The result of the temperatures for Hie last ten days affords — Max. -13-50°; mill. — t3-0(f ; moan, -2r,'(15y°. I was enabled to attend prayers today, but found the lower deck, although warmer than my cabin (as 1(1° to 50°), oppressively cold. The tempera^.re at the main hatchway ventilator was at 34°, and probably the air close to the deck proved too cold for my feet, by whieli extremity I suspect most of our feelings are sensitive. The weather externally at present is calm, cold, and without any cheering heat from the sun's rays. ^rarch 30.— It is remarkable that ])ersons boxed np in this climate, and deprived of the ordinary variations of eveiyday occurrences in the busy world, seem to dt«rive the faculty of "seeing ahead." Nor is it confined to educated beings, for we find it occasionally amongst the Es(piimanx and Greenlanders ; and since we have been in this region it is remarkable how all our discoveries, orders, and operations have been so perfectly made to dovetail or fit into each other, or onr thoughts indicate some peculiar relation to realities at hand, is even won- derful; for myself I nuist confess that it has a very solemn ett'ect, and causes me to think very seriously. " Connng events cast their shadows before" was never more fully realized. Today I felt so perfectly satisfied that a sledge from Kellett was due (if he existed), that I fully intended, M'hcn the :\[aster reported noon, \o desire luni to send a person to look out on th(> hill. It escaped me, being then engaged on other mailers; but mv clerk f ■ -^^■'^viiiac ^.^E.>^'^i.wwii ^^BB 1'^: f If ; it I I ";i I ,• 1 V} ■: i : i : ~'f ii i :l >' 134 AKRIVAL OF LIKUTENANT HAMILTON. [Murc/l, coming in from taking the temperature of the Crystal Palace, reported " A dog-sledge nearly alongside, Sir !" My reply, instigated by Avhat was then passing in my mind, was very short, and without emotion, "I knoio it" which somewhat astonished him; but fortunately I ex- plained my meaning, which perhaps led him to imagine T was dreaming. At 12.30 Lieutenant Hamilton, attended only by one man and the dog-sledge of the ' Resolute,' reached the ' Assistance,' being the bearer of letters from Captain Kellett, which informed me that the ' Resolute' was frozen in the pack twenty-eight miles south-west by south from Cape Cockburn, having been blown out of " AVinter Quarters" off Dealy Island on the 18th of Au- gust last, during the gale which had thus nearly proved fatal to the whole Scpiadron. All our sledges had reached the ' North Star' safely, and Conuuander Richards had started on his expedition l)efore the arrival of the two last sledges under Mr. Grove. lie did not meet with Lieutenant Hamilton, but had fallen in with another sk-dge from the ' Resolute,' about ten miles to the eastAvard of Cape liotham ; and having ()l)taincd IVom her otiict r full particulars as to where the ' Resolute' would be found, lightened his sledge of some of her load, and pushed forward. Deliglited I was to sec Lieutenant Hamilton, and to learn from him that all were in good health and spirits. It is necessary that I slioidd now refer to the state of our atfairs generally; and it will be perceived that in so I'ar as the movement of the ' Uesolute' is concerned, it was compulsory, antl that the probabilities were, as I ap- 1854.] ESTABLISHMENT OF CACHES. 135 prehended, of liis not experiencing a navigable season; indeed, the choke of the WelUngton Channel and Barrow Strait, by the quantity of ice forced into Lancaster Sound, rendered any navigation on the western line impossible. I had hoped that the ' llcaolutc' would have been found secure at Melville Island, that she would have wintered there, and thus have been left in a condition to succour Captain Collinson's pai'ty, should they march in that di- rection. In furtherance of a continued chain of posts, where caches would be established, a fleet of sledges were now engaged carrying forward the necessary supplies, so that independent of any aid to Captain KcUett's crews, sufHcient would remain for others who might arrive after he had abandoned or withdrawn his crews, to sustain them along the same route. In addition to these measures Commander Pullen was despatched to examine and make caches at Capes Walker and Bunny, at the entrance to Peel's Channel, and to leave notices at the projecting pohits on tlie route to Port Leopold, which would acquaint travellers that relief should be sought at Beechey Island. lie was further strictly to examuie and report upon the stores left at Port Leo})old, where he would leave complete documents for the guitlanee of Captain CoUinson, should he adopt the course up the western side of Prince Regent's Inlet, and also inform him that a vessel was expected from England hi August at Beechey Island. This matter therefore, of the present position of the ' Resolute,' as deduced from the correspondence of Cap- tain Kellctt, did not at all cause any change in mv opinion or determination, for to my comprehension her ■■isSKBgSSSS^ 1 ).f IH*> V r- J'i I' in 1.li' K-.M i'il! ' 136 CAPTAIN KKM.ETt's I'lKX'EKDlNOS. [Mciir/l, rescue tliis season was a game of c/iancc to which 1 wouhl not become a party, or subject myself to the hazard of disobedience to what I /a/civ (and I speak not at random or without /li^/i authorUy) was my duty. But supposing I did not possess irrefutable docu- ments in support of my determination, a deteniuncdioii for which I was, I may assert, selected for this command, I could only draw the conclusion from the entire corre- spondence forwarded to me, public as well as private, that doiiht was involved. Let me calmly ask, who was to decide as to what the duty of the superior was ? The following, being the official letier of Captain Kel- lett to me, will communicate all that may be required of his operations since Commander Richards left him in June, 1853. No. I. " llvr Majesty's Ship Ri-nutufi', Fehruarij 10, ISo-k " Lat. 7 t" -1-2' A''., Lomj. 101° 2' JF. " Sir, — My letter of the 8th of June, with the docu- ments accompanying it, will have given you a concise ac- count of my proceedings and intended movements U}) to that date. 1 beg now to transmit papers containing in- formation relative to this part of the Expedition, with a report of proceedings since that time. "Commander Richards left * Resolute' on the evening of the 8th of June, at four p.m., and Dr. Domville arrived on board here at one a.m. on the 10th, bringing mc the information relative to ' Investigator's' crew, contained in the accompanying documents. It will be readily seen from them what would have been the result had their Ijordsliips not determined on dctaeliing a portion of this, .1 !' i- 1854.] RETURN OF M'CIJNTOCK. 137 Expedition in the direction of Melville Island. I accom- panied Commander Richards on his first march from ' Resolute,' so that when I received the information of Dr. Domville's arrival, he was too distant for mc to over- take him with any party I had to send. "Lieutenant Hamilton returned on the 21st of June, after an absence of fifty-four days. He visited our pre- concerted rendezvous, and brought me from it your de- spatch addressed ' Secretary of the Admiralty,' your letter respecting it, and a private letter for myself. " Lieutenant Hamilton brought his party in, all well. " Lieutenant Meecham arrived the Gth of July, having been absent ninety-four days. His party all well, with the exception of one man, who has lost, I fear, the sight of one eye. " Counnander M'Clintock returned on the Ibth of July, after an absence of 105 days. The ground being clear of snow, and very heavy, the ravines running with impassable torrents, obliged him to abandon all his equipment on the north side of j\Ielville Island, about two miles distant from the shore of Ilccla and Griper Bay. He walked in with his crew, carrying their knap- sacks and a few provisions. All safe and well. "The accompanying tracing, with an abstract from my travelling table, will show you the extent of coast that has hem searched (without finding the slightest trace of nmn ever having been on it before), and what has been added to our knowledge of the country by the officers and crew of this ship. How ably and zealously they nuist have done their duty to cover so much ground : IG18 miles discovered and walked over ! It =.-=>« . "'ii-CWifiWigWjK.-g! 138 ABUNDANCE OF OAMK, iMarch, '.\> )> "Illy, 11 ,, ,, „ 66 ,, o7 ,1 ,, Aujrust, G „ (i „ „ 49 ,, " August having arrived, with little appearance of a break-up, I sent Mr. Nares (Mate), with a })oat and crew, to report on the practicability of getting along the land in water. He returned in three davs, not beiui^ !il)le to cross Beverley Inlet or to get along its shores. Were the land continuous between this and Ueechey, the voyage, late in the summer, might, I consider, be easily and rapidly made. Mr. Nares could see no indication of a break-up to seaward. I now began to despair of breaking out at all ; the disposal of a part of the crew, to save provision and to give room, became an object of se- rious consideration. I had a large sledge for carrying a boat made ; but as it was impossible a party could have got down to Beechey in time for any ship leaving for l']ngland, and that the depot there Avould be less able to su[)port the party than this ship at Dealy, I abandoned the project, but determined, as soon as all hope was at an end, to send a party of twenty-five oiticers and men, un- der either M'Clintock or Meecham, to ' Investigator ' to winter, with orders to visit, by Prince Wales' Strait, the Princess Royal Island and Nelson's Head (south end of Haring Island), to deposit at these places records, and to endeavour to find out from th.e natives whetlier ' Enter- prise' had been seen by them. We may get along the American coast, aiul get into tiu' strait discovered by Sir t. • fif .,,- ' j»gja \n w ;>'^ .1 K' 1:-( 140 SITUATION OF ' IlKSOM'TF,. M(U(/l, James Ross, now cnllcd OmninniKjy Tiilct. To show you how suddenly changes take place, the re[)()vt from the summit of Dcaly Island on the morning of the 17th of August was — httle change in the ice, a f(!W more cracks, ])ut of no extent. The day conunenced with light south- erly whuls. Wc had foot-races, wrestling, jumping in bags, etc., on Dcaly Island, all hands attending, even my poor invalid Mate, Mr. Sainsbury, who had now greatly im- proved in health and spirits. Towards evenhig the wind began to freshen from the south-eastward, and at eight P.M. bLnv a very strong gale ; too much drift to see what was gomg on outside. A crack that was scarcely obser- vable a day or two before, between us and ' Intrepid,' at midnight opened out to some feet. I tried to moor the piece, to keep us from jostling. At two a.m. (18th) the wind shifted suddenly to the northward, blowing a fu- rious gale. The piece between us and 'Intrepid' went out, the whole floe breaking off* at our sfcni-s, left us fast by our anchors to a good heavy old floe, and in open water ; this soon followed, and away we went driving to- gether until we came up with the ice astern of us, luckily in a hole of water. AVe held on by this piece as long as we could : it did more for us than wc could do for our- selves. Slewing, it carried us round on to its weather edge, where we pounded for a few hours, having only a little brokeu-np stuff" to fence off" the lipper that had now got up. " At six P.M. we managed to get off*, and made sail, running along the land to the eastward : slowly water aking as we progressed. At four a.m. on the lOth wc nif had 'a block' for an honr off Point (jlriffiths ; passed it, I8r).|..l DRIVFX AHOIT UV THE PACK. 141 and stood nloiijr tlio |)a(;k c(ljj;c in the direction of Byam Martin Island, Here wc were stopped ; lanes into the pack, bnt notliin 'I I ic ' f ; :;!i ! ,:U 1 n COMMUNIfATION IMPRArTICAHLK. [.\/f/ir/t, tliis iinvignfioii from one hour to ihv iu;xt. Hotwcni the loth of S('|)t('iul)cr Jind 1:2th of Novciulnr, twice in tlie flooj we iiiiidc a hvdtivi/ voyiij^c! down this Strait ; we only nindc westiiif^ on two occasions, showinjij that thero is a perniancnt eastei'ly current ; a goo«l cxaniph' of tlic May the (Jreat Polynia may be navigated in the winter. " Thus ends my spring and sunnner proceedings. " Winter had now really conunenced. I was anxious to conuiumicate with you, and had a party prepared for the purpose, Init if wax impruclicahh'; the floe was so much broken up that a boat could not have been taken over it, and there was still so nuich water or light ice that it would not have been safe without one; in addi- tion, there Avere only seven travelling hours of light. " On the 14th of November, Mr. Sainsbiu'y (Mate), whose decline became rapid from the moment we lost ho})es of getting down, and the cold weather, diiul. Poor fellow ! the prospect of getting home, coupled with the ability and kindness of my Siu'geon, was all that sustained him so long. " It now became a matter of great consideration, the victiuilliuf/ so large a number of men in addition to my own crew, after having expeuvied so nuich in travclUng, placing de})ots, and feeding increased numbers, so as to sustain them in health and give mc the means of saving my ships. The result was, I found that, with a very small decrease of the allowance, I could victual all until the end of April, and have for myself, reducing wi/ crew to fifty men and officers {both vessels), provision to last mc untd May, 1855, before which time I hope to be ret rased, or to be within t/ic reach of succour. T(j It' ' « K 1 { 1854.] PROI'OSKI) I'KOCMKDFN'dS. 145 ji Imve rcdiuTd the nllowimcc would, I Mt, |mvc been to los(! a large portion of the crew their Lordships sent nie to assist ; th(>relore I (/i,/ md rcr/ifcp the allowance : besides, no rcdnction I could have; made would have enabled n»e to stay by my ships during the winter of 1H55-0 without being assisted, which may be dono yet, if wo are so unfortunate this sununer as to fail in getting through. '• iMy (intended) proceedings, nulms I ,/ct contrari/ in. sfructions from you, will be as follows :— "1. To despatch two parties (one men, the othci- dogs), under Lieutenant Hamilton and Roche (Mate), to Ik^echey Island as early as practicable in March ; the dogs to be employed, with Mr. Roche as their leader, in case you have not reached Rccchcy, in carrying these despatches to you, and the men to return to me with in- formation. "2. An officer, Mr. Court, of ' Investigator,' accom- panies these parties, who I propose shall be sent to Port Leopold, with a strong party, to survey and arrange the stores there, to leavo a chart there of all that has been done, and all information relative to the Squadron and depots of provisions for CoUinson. A copy of Mr. Court's survey to be left in the Beechey house. This officer was with Sir James Ross, and will execute this service zealously and well. " The ' Investigator's' officers and crew, together with the officers of this ship and the men who are the least able to stand a further winter in this climate (all amounting to eighty-three men and officers) will leave in three divisions for the depot at Beechey Island, in VOL. II. ^ i I l^i i^Wg s^ 110 ALLOTMENT 01' CREWS. [J/«rf/<, I- :: '! the month of April, all arrivhig there by the Ist of May. I will accompany myself tlic First Division, to conunu- nicate and receive instructions from you, or, should you not be th'rc, to give Commander PuUcn instructions for his guidance ; after which I shall return to my ship, to await the break up of the ice. I will not allow my- self to consider the possibility of there being no ship at Beechey, or no resources. Even inider these circum- stances, I nuist endeavour to get the same number away. " I should like much to send a chosen few home by way of America, or right on to ' Plover.' It is ])racti- cable now, I think, with the depots, etc., laid out.* " The employment of my crew until the commence- ment of the thaw, 7th of June, is all I have now to enter on in the way of proceedings. I hope h he able to visit Dealy Island, ' Investigator,' and Princess Royal Islands, besides getting a little fresh meat from Cape Cockburn in the shape of venison. "The ' Investigator's' officers and crew^ arc sixty in number, — one Commander, one Lieutenant, one Master, two Surgeons, one Purser, three warrant-officers, and fifty-one seamen and marines. " I propose to send from ' Resolute,' for your disposal, Lieutenant Pirn and my three Mates, with twenty-one men. I very reluctantly part with my Mates ; they are noble young men. I shall deem it a fiivour if you, as Commander of the Expedition, will acquaint them with my high appreciation of their conduct whilst with me. * If he had made; such an allumpt, how uttirly iniudicious would it havf proved ! ' .£ ] tt M 1854.] IIEAT.TII OF C'RKWS. 147 i Mr. flc Bray loaves with the goodwill and good wishes of n/l, officers and men ; he has done his service niiieh credit, which I shall take; an opportunity of stathig, in justice to him, in a separate letter. " The health of the crews during the winter has been better than I could have anticipated ; the good effect of the spring feeding manifest. The very superior quality of our provisions, of ever// sort, with the many comforts supplied us, assisted materially in keeping the men in the same condition nearly as when we commenced the winter. We continued to serve out weekly musk-ox beef until Christmas Day to the whole crew, retaining sufficient for the sic& and those the Surgeon considered it necessary to place on the diet list. These men, except at the Surgeon's express wish, have not had a l)it of snlt the whole winter ; nevertheless, I am sorry to say, we have had some losses. " Mr. Sahisbury, Mate of ' Investigator,' died on the 14th of November, of confirmed disease of the lungs ; ho, poor fellow, was brought over to me on a sledge. This is the only 'Investigator' I have lost. " Samuel Hood, RI {' Intrepid'), died 2nd of Janu- ary, 1851 i James Wilkic, seaman (' Intrepid'), died :2nd of Edmiary, 1854. These two men's deaths, no doubt, have been hastened by the severity of the chmatc and the trying nature of the hil)our in traA e!Hng they had to ])er- form, acting on already diseased orgiuis and shaken con- stitutions. I have at present two very ill ; one, seaman (' Investigator'), with scrofula, ill those last two years; the other a Marine (of my own), imj)voving. These are the only tAvo that will not be able to pull their pound down L 2 . ,fi Hi I ti p., r ' ■If I m . ,i iU DEATHS. [Marc/t. to Beechey. Send the dogs back for me, if you want me quickly (I hope to start my First Division on the 1st or 4th of April). The men you will find fine fellows, up to any work you may have for them ; only return them to me by the 7th of June. " I have now given you all information ; any that I may have omitted Mr. Hamilton and the papers accom- panying this will supply. " Trusting that you may have reached Beechey Island, and all in possession of health, " I have the honour to remain. Sir, " Your obedient servant, " Henry Kellett, Captain, "H.M.S. Resolute. " To Captain Sik E. Belcher, Kt., C.B., " Coimnanding Arctic Exjiediiion." " P.S. — My only wants for the ensuing year are pre- served meats and tea, travelling pemmican, and fuel, with some balls of hemp and soles for boots, and physics. (See our retiu-n of provisions, and scale of present vic- tualling.)" ■hi A 'hi '' . i: ( i 149 CHAPTER V. Bangers of Autumn. — llecoveiy of 'Investigator's' crew. — List of Game.— Food, but not Fuel.— llain at Melville Island. — M. de Bray. — Mean Monthly Temperatures. — State of the Ice. — Increase of Sea Temperature.- Shock of the Ice. — Arrival of M'Clintock.— Corre- spondence on Abandonment. — Force devoted to Assistance. — lie- turn of Shooting Party. — Extreme Cold beneath the Snow.— Expe- riments on Snow Covering. — Establish four Posts for Sledges. The following is from the customary correspondence, not private, but demi-official end explanatory: all pri- vate matters omitted, as well as those not bearing upon the critical position of the ' Resolute.' It is evident no open water was noticed before August 18th, and the 26th, that season, closed even upon Beechey Island ! This winter also has been infinitely more severe. " There must have been a sea of water here, but so late that the sludge which brought us up (sticking like bii'dlime) must have made as fast as the pack went east- erly. There must always be a block amongst the islands nntil the season is far advanced, when the strong winds break the floe up into pack sufficiently small to get through. You will see, by the chart I send you, how I have been driving about these straits, and also that there -fi; : II "II m "S ' ^^i r ''< k I It :) ' ■\ , 150 PUOBAIJLE DANOKHS. [Marc/i, is a constant cnrrcnt throughout to the eastward. I avi well into the Strait ; sti/l, if it breaks up at all, I nuist get through {unless I (/ft smashed), and, I think, south ol' Lowther ; but it will all depend on the wind, of which we have but litth' this winter, so 1 hope for a good share this smnnier. Should I yet smashed (which, light as 1 am, I do not think will happen), I must seek some of the depots east or west of me." Matter here connected with other parties, but wliich merely served to strengthen my o[)inion as to my duty, I must omit. "I hope to be able to visit Princess Royal Island and ' Investigator,' and to bring back from Dealy a few preserved meats ; that is, if you think 1 ought. " Be sure you write me a long yarn of all you have been doing (privately, as you did before), and be honest in your opinions of my proceedings. " Send l)ack the dogs for me, and I shall be with you in no time ; but do not put yourself out of the way to come this road, for there is nothing to be seen or done. " We have had the weather intensely cold in February ; the mean for the month —41°." The tenour of this correspondence is to the effect that .'ill has been done that could be done ; that the vessels might be smashed, and that notwithstanding my orders to return were positive, even to be at Beecliey Island hi the summer of 1854, that such intention of the Govern- ment was to be frustrated, and the further dilenuna of keeping out one or more ships, to look for the shattered remains of these vessels and crews, incurred. So far, then, from altering my views, I came to the I "iielusioii thiit before aiiv discussii>ii could ari.-^c v\hi('h i 1854.] DANGEB". OF AUTUMN. 151 luiglit shake my decision (from any private feelipg), it was iny duty to })iirsiic uicasuvcs for relief and immediate abandonment ; not without sound reasons, for it was clear to me, after discussing the matter fully with Lieu- tenant Hamilton, one of the most inteUigent and active officers of this Squadron (a Lieutenant of the ' Resolute') and standing higli also in the opinion of Captain Krilctt, that the ' Resolute' was too far off the northern shore even to save the crew, should any sudden " run of the ice" break up the pack, which, as before dciscribed, in variably tumbles to pieces before the even homogeneous floe, subjecting the vessels to be ground between them, or, as in the case (then unknown to Captain Kellett) of the ' Breadalbane,' annihilating her instantaneously. But what does the public letter of Captain Kellett in- dicate, even at the end of the season in winter, in proof of my views ? " Winter had now really commenced. I was anxious to communicate with you, and had a party prepai'cd for the purpose, but it was impracticahle ; the floe was so nuich broken up that a boat could not have been taken over it, and there Avas so much loaler or light ice that it would not have been safe without one." If such danger was manifest after the idnter had reallij commenced, infinitely greater danger would attend the deserting of "a nipped vessel" over far greater difficulties of loose ice withoui the chance of becoming solid by frost ! Our Division, and myself personally, had practical proof of this difficulty, when cut off at Hungry Island in October of the same season, and the disti^nce intervening bciweea us and the uuiinland did not exceed tm miles. > ^i^'i ■"fy i' ) '^ in < ) .r? ;ii I.: I.I; . 'l H ! ■ 'I 152 CONDITION OK 'investigator's' cKiiw. [Marc/i, Moreover, excepting wliere vessels arc nipped and de- stroyed in con/act with sound floe, the salvation of the boats is problematical, and should such a misfortune occur all hands must perish! But to return to the ' Resolute,' her tender, and the ' Investigator.' Early in March last, Captain Kellett had despatched a Lieutenant and his Surgeon to visit the ' Investigator,' and report upon the condition of the crew, etc. Unfortunately the Lieutenant left the Surgeon tented on the ice and proceeded alone, and Commander M'Clure returned with the Lieutenant to the ' Resolute.' Commander M'Chu'e was still anxious to be afforded another chance of getting through ; and Captain Kel- lett, yielding to his wishes, despatched his Surgeon with him to survey the crew, and should twenty volunteers come forward he might remain until the next season. But they were unfit ; they had been reported to inc demi-oifjicially as in a deplorable state ; in the words of Captain Kellett, " they were in a terrible condilion, disorganized in addition to disease:" more I will not divulge. What then were my feelings, what my diif// ^ As the Commander of such an Expedition, possessing the entire confidence of Government, was 1 tamely, with such mat- ter in my hands, to l)etiay niy trust P Could 1 lend my approval barely to what I have divulged? and if the mat- ter before me did not warrant my disa[)proval of an in- stant* s delay in conveying the crew of the ' Investigator' to England, had I not ample ground in declining fiii- ther risk of life, further anxiety to the public, and the additional expense of leaving behind three vessel P for 1854.J HKCOVEllY OF THE CHEW. 153 leavi^.^r the 'Resolute' and tender involved another at Bcechey Island. Fortunately, all the sick reached tlie ' Resolute' safely, and by the judicious arrangements of Captain Kellett and Dr. Doniville, by employing them detached in tents, killing game and consuming it fresh on the ground, they derived the double advantage of the true unfermented juices of the meat before they were deteriorated by freezing, as well as healthy and exciting exercise for body and mind in an atmosphere rendered more salubrious by the progress of sununer vegetation. Mr. Sainsbury (late Mate, but promoted to Lieutenant) had, from being considered in a hopeless condition, so far rallied and progressed towards convalescence as to be able to take exercise and witness the games in which the crews were enjoying themselves at Dealy Island on the day the vessels were blown from their winter quarters, that eventful ISth of August which afforded us a safe haven at Port Refuge aiul cut off the ever-to-be-lamented and heroic Bellot. To Captain Kellett's letter I nuist refer the reader for further information. Nothing westerly, at all bearing upon the traces of Sir John Franklin, has been disco- vered, and I think we may safely now assert that these regions eastward, westward, and northwards even to the Polar Sea, contain not a trace ; and from my own obser- vation I never have ceased to think, from August, IS 52, that he never passed northerly from Beechey Island. As to the chances of his having passed into the Polar Sea without leaving a record, I have but too frequently ex- pressed my opinion that if such an event occurred, search is beyond that discretion which any sensible man would '11: ?li Ir 154 TJIKORETICAL KXPLORERS. [^farcl^, n exercise. It is easy, perhnps, for courageous chauil)cr theorists to Avork tlieinselvcs up to the sticking-point and imagine what tlieir Quixotic spirits would impel them to do. IJut to such self-sufficii'ut heroes I would oft'er " ships, stores, and men; hut if you wantonly lose a life, at your hands I demand the sacrifice." Men who command must feel for tlie lives entrusted to their keeping ; and good men do not follow mad-brained fools. The distinct increased dimensions of all the floe ice noticed to the westward, as well as northward, of the Queen's Channel, is, to my mind, satisfactory proof that it belongs to another sea and has n_, connection with Baffin's Bay, Lancaster Sound, or the AVellington Chan- nel ; and although it may have considerable motion in sunnner, I yet believe that in the Victoria Archipelago, as in the case between Banks' Land and jMelville Island, it remains unbroken for years, even ages. With refer- ence to the evidence given before the Arctic Committee, as to the security of Erebus and Terror Bay, w^e have too good reason to know to the contrary, and that there is not a more unsafe position in these seas; lc do I believe (hat the vessels of Sir John Franklin ever cut into that bay sufficiently deep to occu])y the position imaghied, Ikit upon the matter of being blown out, we have now more facts to argue on, and we feel (issnred that with a northerly gale instead of southerly in 1852 and 1853 the ' North Star' must have been destroyed. Pursuing however the questions relating to our more fortunate friends of the AVestern Division, T cannot omit inserting here the report of game ca])turLil, and adding lliat about ji dozen liare> and llie .same number of [)lar- 1854.] LIST 01' CIAMK KILLED. 155 luignii comprised the total collection of our Northern Di- vision. H.M.S. l^EsoLLTE, ])ealy Tsland. Cmme /,/«/, frij,fi '.ird Si-plauhn; ls,")2, Id Qt/i September, 1S53. ^liisk-oxcii . . . lU; avi-nigL' ueiglil . . ICcJlbs. Kfindfur .... 95 „ „ . , Cd Marcs Hfi „ ,, . . « Ik'avs 6 Wolves .... 3 Fosiis 51 I'tavmigaii . ... 711 „ „ . , 1 Geese 128 „ „ . . 2J Pucks 22y , 2,1 I'lovev Ifi ImsiteH. Meat oil board . . . ]3;}03 11>.h. ,, travelling. . ()-(i37 Unlit for use . . . 2-1-Of) Small game . . . . 5- 138 27--183 Captain Kellett remarks, " I liavc been most success- ful in })rocuring game, and that of some size, — musk- oxen and reindeer, wliich enabled me to serve l^lb. per man each day for some consideral)le time. This was not obtained without labour. My principal hunting grounds were distant from the ship twelve to fifteen miles. I have detached five hunthjg ptn^ties away at one time; besides every encouragement and facility was given to sportsmen to hunt the country in the neighbourhood of the ship." But, notwith.standhig our Western ])artics [)assc(l over huul where giuiiL- al)ounded, their tr;i veiling duties and want of fuel to i-ook the meat prociu'ed, de- I i:- ''1 0 llii 'I I 'I I, ( ■ \ Hi '^ ,4 i U-! i H i 'i ; '? ' V ' ■i i I, 'ji ■ t i ofl I'OOI), HUT NOT I'UKL. [Aff/rc//, barred tlicni IVom the enjoyment of nuuiy fresh luenls. To persons rechieed to necessity there is every reason to beheve that the means of sustaining a \ii.serabK.' exist- ence might be found on the coasts of C irnwalHs and Melville Islands ; but it is fearful to contemphitc the result; for most assuredly scurvy, ui its most virulent form, would soon de[)rive them of the power to travel to a position where effectual aid might be available ! But, granting that some more vigorous individuals might have been able to push forward, in the hope of sending back assistance, if encountered, \vc who have travelled and calculated the powers with sound men and good sledges, know full well that poAvers to drag the carcases killed would not avail them beyond short distances, and that the first journey would prohably carry them beyond the grounds where game resort ! It has been imagined, l)e- cause game has been found in particular spots, that it must i)revail throughout these regions, and moreover ihat on our particular ground it would yet be more abun- dant. The fallacy of such arguments is, I trust, now de- termined. It was natural enough for the ice-bound crews of the 'Resolute' and 'Investigator' to eat, drink, and be merry; but with our missing friends, if existing, the ship, tiie home, and the fuel were wanting, to render the meal palatable. Independent however of food, I cannot now believe in the possibility of any party existhig without some substantial shelter in a climate which averages over 151 days a mean tem])erature of — 3081°, and at times as low as — 08°! Again, on eomj)ariMg oin- climates, Captaui Kellett remarks :—" We have had during the 1854.1 RAIN AT MFIAIIJ.K ISLAM). 157 suimncr — .lunc, July, mid August — very luild wcntlicr; an unusual quantity of ruin, but little wind. " It, ruined in .lunc on 5 days: 9 hours linrd, 21 rniii, 0 drizzle. •iid.v 11 „ „ an „ 57 „ „ August () „ « „ 41i „ Now it is very strange, with so insigniticant a differ- ence in latitiule, that I cannot call to mind any histance of positive rain. Had any such visitation oeciuTed, our tents would inevitably have been frozen, and therefore 1 think I may safely assert that wc had none. At our hottest period, when the heat within the tent was termed dreadful, the thermometer, in free air, on an elevated clitf, and suspended four feet above the earth, indicated 24°. Under such circumstances, any falling moisture would assume the character of snow. Indeed wc did not experience any temperature which would afford a flow of water from the snow until late in June, at which period the floe traversed by Commander Richards, about a degree to the southw.nrd, was very sludgy. Rain would have set our valley courses and rivers in motion, but no- thing of this nature met our notice during the season of 1853. A very unfortunate accident occurred to Mr. Roche, the second to Lieutenant Hamilton, shortly after leaving the ' Resolute,' He was in the act of withdrawing his fowling-jnece from the sledge, when it went off, passing the ball through the thick portion of the thigh, but with- out injury to the arteries. He was immediately taken back to the ship, and Mr. Court, Master of the ' Investi- gator,' took his place. I «, I •' 4 ■ ■;■ I \ ) I •, : I i I' 1 1 if, 'I ! t. \.. i-^ 158 MONSTiaiR \)V. »n\v [.)/.//r//, Knrtnnntoly, I toniul that iirnmgcinciits had already lu'cn miuK" I'or tho movcincnt of cif^hty-thrt'c ofHccrs and men of the ' Inveslij^ator' uml ' liesohite,' ho as to roaeh Heeehey Island by the 1st of May. This Division will [)rol)alily be in readiness to start by the time Com- mander Uiehai'ds reaches the ' Resolnte;' they will again be met by our entire Division of nine sledges, instructed to ntiord them every assistance, or, not being required, to push on supplies for Captain Collinson to Cape Cock- burn. It is with feelings of great satisfaction tlint Cn» lin Kellett affords me the opportunity of publicly stating his opinion with regard to the second French ollicer who has so gallantly associated himself with this Expedition. Speaking of him, he observes : — " ^lonsiciu' de Bray leaves me with the goodwill and good wishes of all, — olhccrs aiul men; he has done his service much creibt, which I shall take an opportunity of stating in a separate letter." AVith regard to the decease of Samuel Hood and James Wilkie, he observes : — " The deaths of these two men, no doubt, have been hastened by the severity of tlu^ climate and the trying natiu'e of the labour in travelli)ig they had to perform, acting on already diseased organs and shaken constitutions." I understand that these two men served in the ' In- vestigator,' under Captain Bird ; m this ship, under Captain Ommanney , and lattei'ly in the ' Intrepid' (four whiters). This strengthens my view — that every nuui who has volunteered afresh, from the last or former Ex- peditions, is materially injured in constitution, which 1851. roVSTI'lTTIONS rMl'MKKl) IIY CI.TMATi;, 51) , lunnitl'stly loads to tlu; support ol' my piiiicipK.' : I'lvsli l)loo(l tor every (li'partiiient hut tlie ('onuuiuidcrs of ves- sels. The service itself injures the Profession; hiihits ore indulged in which are not easily thrown aside; and the approximation to the freedom of the whaler is too close to prove pleasant to those who endeavour to main- tain a service discipline. "Those are not the hoots they came down to ask onr opinio)) 0))," very glihly oozed from the mouth of one of the Arctic seamen of last cruise. My return despatches being eoin))lete, and a gale, which commenced on the arrival of Lieutenant llamil ton, abated, he (putted us, on his liomeward route, on the 3rd of April, attended by a considerable rise of fiMiipera- ture and a fine cheering sun. The completion of March furnishing a fair ('onij)ara- tivc range of the cold for this season, I have theivi'ore thrown them into a tabular form, from which 1 have reason to infer that we have already enjoyed our mini- nuun allowance of cold, as compared with pre\ ions voy- agers. Some indeed there are who would contend that Arctic seasons arc gradually becoming milder, 1)ut no such assertion is tenable under the evidence which we have been able to collect. In a former place I alluded to ranges over the months October 1 1 June, both inclusive, as establishing very nearly a mean of — 10-00°, but witliin that period were many + signs. I have therefore on this season adopted the live coldest months, and classed them in the order of the different Ex])editions, commencing with ISir Ed- ward Parry at AVinter Ilarl)0ur, Melville Island. I :»' /»-•«« ■ai^^ Ih vr h l\ ! ■; 8 ■ 1 EH K O r/2 O H w w o i P s X CO i? g hH 30 00 t» 6 6 lit 5 a ol 1-4 8 s CO CO CO 1 !>• (!c J) 1^ Ol .2 o ira r^ CO -^i. lf3 1(5 •i" J; ti S 1 1 1 1 ^ ^ - ^ ^ o * o 1(0 t- (fj O 6 M is 1 rH 4- + 1 rH 1 -a d M i-H t^ C5 IM CO 5 C3 >ra CO CO CO t>. o o lO «■! 6 05 t- lb '. cc <, J CO •& 0^ rH O'l o _ 1 1 Han o CO ?' o lO 1 sista berla 852- .s do to M t- lb 3 71 1 ..a* 1 1 lO 1 ^ § '^ 1 O O 1 o 1 Mi o .^ g r-i tb h\ (fl i": "t. o C3 + 1 1 + + ^ o o g o o IM 3 >n c> o t^ 05 ^ „ tS; 1^ (fl r-l (M lb M ,5 '^ ^ 1 1?) CO CO (M IM 1 1 Aus Isla -51. c" o rH If; O o is 1 .S :3 S <1 CO CO -* TjH T*' !.§ 2 1 o 1 o o >P o o 5 d M l<5 CI 1^ 00 i-H fH ;^ + 1 j^ o § o o o M ed in t^ N 00 03 t«H ■* tb lb lb M s ..; '3 l<^ rH CO CO CO (M IM en ^^ 1 S 2 d .9 U5 in V.0 o o 1 !>• Os o o Ah S H^ ^ a CO »o Iffl u> in 1 i: - 1 1 ^(S o o >o o o 1^ (o •^ C5 t- do C3 T-H l-H iH r^ + 1 + a> lO i—t IM t» CO C o \fi o 1(5 ,^ cb w ijl lb tr h— 1 (M ■* •* T)< fiH -e 2 <■■ 1 1 o PM o vra lO o O t» ■* ■^ X c> r-" rt << + 1 „ C3 o g s o rH % . -^ d S r-l Ol g CO do rH (M 1 1 1 s 1~ 1 CO 1 i 1 1 o ^ + to r 1 i- r-l 5C *■ c « ^ ir, t-H mL: ta S J'*' __L r". U5 1S5J..] RKMARKS ON STATE OF THE JCK. KU These numhors, cxcliuliiifr Port Boweii, which appcnrs to possess a teiuperatuiv. peculiar to itself, resiiUiiig pro- bably from its being j)rotectetl from easterly and open to westerly influences, afford prc;tty conclusive evidence that if any change is to be inferred, it must be taken for increased cold. And I am very nuich inclined to sus- pect, that if our temi)eratures for the late season had been registered on the land instead of the floe;, that a trivial increase of cold, perhaps — 15°, might have re- suited. April 9.— I had fully anticipated a decided increase of temperature, indeed oi p//>s signs, before this period; but appearances, as well as past experience, already teach us that cold is yet to prevail, and that we shall have to re- cord the coldest season experienced possibly by human beings. The live-monthly mean of cold has been already given in the previous table, and nine days have elajjsed, still exhibiting a temperature of — IT. On the lUth it reached —1°, and another attempt was made on the smooth floe ice to determine the question of freezing be- neath : the thickness proved to be Ave feet six inches, and my former theory as to the under surface was in this instance completely verifled. The ice had not only ceased (o form, but the lower portion, of two inches in depth, was entirely composed of /oose/i/ cohering scjxirate crystals, yielding easily to tlu- ,)ressure of the tinger. The ice in contact with these ryslals was also in what we should term a rof/cn. state, in a disintegrating condi- tion, and easily jienetrated by a knife or piece of wood. I tried further experiments on the water itself at the bottom. This was effected by closing the neck of the VOJ. II. ^ I; in ii I' ii i(« I. f i 102 INCRKASK OF SI'.A TKATT'KH ATT U I', ^J/Jri/, bottle by a plug of loose cotton : the lead (14 lbs.) being attacked, carried it too rapidly to the bottom to admit of any ice entering. It is evident that the pressure below would force the cotton, and when the bottle becnnie full tlic cotton woidd resume its position in the neck. By reference to page 178, Vol. I., it will be seen that similar experhnents determined that the sea during v in r is constantly charged with miinitp, crystals of ice ; this had now ceased ; the water, on examination, was found to be perfectly transparent and free from any such crystals ; moreover the temperature, during its very short passage from the tloc to my cabin, had risen to 30°. These fiicts satisfy my mind that from this date we may safely cal(;u- late on the Avater penetrating, and, acting on any Tissures which may offer, aiding in the destruction of the heavy ,1, pacK An occurrence at this moment forcibly impressed on our minds the effect resulting from any sudden shjck conununicated to the ice, and the result on the ship. It was founi necessary to enlarge the fire-hole alongside tlu; ship; and to aid in eifeeting this, the Boatswain employed one of the heavy loggerheats (oblong shot) supplied for breaking the light bay ice (its weight was two hundred- weight). This was allowed to fall from a height of about thirt} feet, the ice on which he was acting being four feet in thickness, but previously cut free on three sides by the ice saw. The concussion to the shi]) at the stern, where I was seated, sixty feet distant, was fully equal to 20 ll)s. of guni)owder, and caused everything on the table to vi- brate. Nor could I be brought to believe for some :l 1854.] SHOCK CONVKYEl) UY T[IK ICE. IG3 minutes that it did not proceed from n ])]nst under the counter. Similar in their effects arc the su(hlen lissurcs, in the early season, of young ice, wliich, conveyed by the ice to the ship, produce those sounds so frequently 'mis- taken for l)reaking of bolts, timbers, etc., none of which have been '-oticed shice January. Jpri/ 14. — This morning we experienced the very un- common visitation of a westerly wind, succeeded how- ever by one strong from the southward, whirh will, I trust, on this spring tide, afford us some indication of the break of winter, which has indeed been one of unusual gloominess as well as severity. Last season all were in- spu-ited by the extraordinary excitement caused Ijy the preparation for search ; but now all before us is chai-ged with the labour and anxiety of extricating our vessels, terminable perhaps by crannning all the survivors into one ship. At noon the temperature attained +3" ; so far satisffictory, as complying with ex])ected change. Twc sods of peat were l)rouglit in today as belonging to some newly discovere.l cairn ; but such matters wvvv now too well known to me to cause a moment's doubt. I knew them to belong to the spot from whence our tree had been dug, and further examination proved I was correct. My reason for noticing this at present is, that had I not despatched a party to rejiort further on this matter, doubtless it might have been magnified into suffi- cient imj)ortance "to regret that more intimate search had not been made," or possibly to be the foundation of a mad-brained volunteer after the spot had been quitted. The ojjcrators in the former instanc(> reported the woi-k as their own. I seldom baulk a man in his hobby, and i III Af 'i se 9mm t IV ^^1 i n If ii I / .1 i-1 i I ! ■• (M NOTICK A lil.ACK (11 H YSAI.IS. \_April, lind it much easier to grant him leave to take exercise in his pursuit and convince himscU", tlian expend reasons, which seUlom convince. But to retaru to our pieces of peat, for they really solved a u'.atter which as yet to me was an enigma. During a close examination of this peat, after thawuig in my cabin, I found it to l)c composed, to a depth of nine inches, al- most eutircjly of the remains of lemmings. Tl.e grass on its upper s\irfacc exhibited signs of advanced vegetation, assuming a light green hue, and about the roots I de- tected a rauuite glossy maggot in full activity, brought into existence perhaps l)y the temperatm-e of my cabin (52°). This proof of the progress of vegetation beneath the snow may possibly prove interesting to natnralists. The maggot having been ])laccd in a tin-box with some of the grass tufts, in which I felt as much interest as some would about flovvcrs, shortly after assumed the state of a black chrysalis, identical I believe with those noticed on Grave iSIouut, the derivation of which was now sufficiently explained. The history of the lemming is of itself, even in Nortli- crn Asia, one of great interest, and the allusion to the "armies" of these field-mice nmst be extcmled even to these regions, for nothhig short of such myriads could have produced beds of exuvia: nine inches in thickness. They are still immerous here ; but as their forays, even in warmer climes, do not occur for intervals of many years, they may yet exist on the southern shores, and await for a marvellous sununer for their marvellous marches ! We have noticed their tracks far out of siglit of \'d\\(\ ; u|)on what tiny live we cannot determine, but I -.1 1854.J AliRIVAL OJ' t'OMMANDKU M'CLINTOCK. 105 that they arc the prey of miincroiis birds and animals we well know. On the 17tli I forwarded a shootinif party, with a week's provision, to the nortli-east ; it was placed under the direction of Dr. Lyall, and partly composed of some of om- men who hav(; been particularly subject to aft'ec- tion of the gums, induced in'incipally by tl^eir peculiar duties and confniement on board. They started about ten A.M., with a temperature of 7°, in high spirits, and passed round Cajjc Eden, taking the direction of the great Eastern Valley, falling in suddenly from thence. Today also, for the first time for some weeks, I made an attempt to bask in the sun's rays on the upper deck, en- joying a temperature of 14°. Jpril 20. — My visits on deck perhaps rendered mc more expectant, but I could not shake off the impression of something advancing. Today I had become wearied, and had not yet reached the deck, when I was apprised of some extraordinary event by the noise on deck, and, before I had time to make inquiry, the arrival of Com- mander M'Clintock, with the dog-sledge, was announced. He was the bearer of letters from Ca])tain Kellett, the contents of which certainly surprised me, as I conceived that my letters, independent of the explanations which Connnander Richards, as well as Lieutenant Hamilton, could give, left no doubt as to my intentions; indeed Connnander Richards had, for this special pui-pose, been sent instead of Commander Pnllen. The question at issue a})pearing to be, that, as no impcrafivc orders had been sent, he woukl await them, I penned the foilowino- ■ — 'J' 'l I I) V I > .1; I i 5 i: s. ' i-if i 16(5 OUDKRS TO UfTHDR.'iW CHEW. [April, 11. M li. .tn.sktditcc, ]1\-Uui(j1(in CliS DKMi-oi'i'iciAi, m.;ttkrs. [April, luntctTin^!; will satisfy mc ! Tf now crews arc sent fVuiii Enfi,iaii{l to hold ' North Star,' tlu'ii a party could pro- ceed back to extricate one or both. Strike topmasts, and get everything on deck. " If yon had not been so pinched, 1 think you would have derived sonic satisfaction by following \\\) the /jox- sible tracks of Collinson by Cai)e Walker, Cape liatty, and Port Leopold, and even of conducting him to ' North Star;' 1 am not without hope that Pullen will." Hut let ns proceed with the further matter, for it is entirely public, contained in Captain Kcllett's letter. " M'Clintock is a sound and safe man, who will give you any information that I omitted. Arc your vessels safe to get out ? Even mine in a hai'bonr or on shore, hauled up, would be well ; but they are not, and nuist be sacrificed. " With Connnander M'Clintock 1 fully discussed the matter for tn-o dm/s before those definitive Instructions were delivered to him, so that it can hardly be imagined that the case was not thoroughly sifted in all its bearings ; indeed Captain Kellett had my further confidential argu- ments upon the measure l)y a demi-othcial of the same date : thus, — " My actions, my good friend, nmst stand the public test in England, and Ik; is a locak Commander who gives reasons for liis conduct before they are demanded by authority. " All my letters will probably be demanded, and they must all accord in the same determination, understood fully by the two late First Lords, to whom I nuist leave any defence tliat may be demanded. I will not deceive \ 7 LSf).!.] (■0>I-\1ANI)K11 ■M'cr.lN'ICX K nK|>AUTS. Kill 4 / tliciii, nor shall their replies or iissurmici>s deceive the country that the trust re[)osed in ine, viz. ' the final issue of all l]xi)e([itions to this region, for the end in- tended, should rest on my decision.' "The valuable time for action, /. c. for the withdrawal of valuables, has elapsed. JNIy sledges must return hero before the loth of May; for we have inlinitely more to do than you have, and tlic water will impede me before it can you. " If it should be the pleasure of the Admiralty that the ship should be saved, that intention will be com- pletely met at Beechey Island, ami at that date; the sea will be open, and reduced crews and new men can be sent before the ice breaks out on the 2.2nd of August (and not before) in Barrow's Strait. Our vessels uuist, uiuler any circumstances, be left to chance, — to the workings of Nature, — we cannot help them ; and the value of one man's life, in my view, is far above what the hulks will sell for as firewood. Independent of this, double wages, left in danger, the expenses of other ships sent out to search for you, would entail something more, 1 imagine, than the value of stoi'es abandoned!" Such then being my feelings, I took leave of Com- mander iM'CUntock, who ([uitted about nine p.m. on the 21st. But it nuist not be imagined that the mere ques- tion of the safety of the ' Resolute' and tevder occupied my thoughts. Every man fancies //is goods and chattels of the most importance ■ but let us calmly look to my duties. If f.'// could not be saved, then those measures should be ado[)ted which j,ro/j//6t'(/ s'f/rcesa. No chance, /o hiij co/iriclioii, oH'ercH of caj'rying out tiiu double duty fe (' ■, ' (s 1 .1 1 i •«»■ 1 ft i'.; I'i ) . , :1 I ■ H 170 A [J, THE FOIU'E ni'.VOTKI) TO ASSISTANCl'.. [/I/Jfl/, of adcqiKifcly provisioniiif; the ' Rcsoluto' for the r('(|ui- site period, witliout tlu; imited exertions of the whole force iit my comimiiul, and then merely on ixc/intiro oi success! Ihit as I'cgards this ship, everything was in favonr of licr relcaxe and of saving hcsr most vahiable stores. Fnr- ther, if it shonld be the will of the Admiralty, sufficient provision could be forwarded to this ])osition, only tifty- two miles from Reechey Island, to admit of a crew stay- ing by the ship until it became prudent to retire for the winter to Becchey Island. In such a ease very few men would be required, and tliose only to live in the tender. My duty therefore, and on my shoulders alone would rest all the responsibility, Iioiocver ndcised, was clearly to save all the stores and valuables that could be conveyt;d to Heeehey Island before travelling became dangerous or hnpracticnMe, so that the force at the last moment should direct all their energy to extricate the ship. ]\Iy readers may imagine that all the summer months are available for travel, but they may be sadly in error. As the heat increases the floe becomes so covered with water, even if not disrupted and exhibiting impassal)lc gaps or loose pack, that it is dangerous to attempt tra- velling without stores, and this occurs at the very moment that decision as to the dernier ressort is demanded. The circumstances in themselves left no scnsil)lc alter- native, for the ' Resolute' and tender were beyond a rea- Honable distance, or 180 travelling miles west of Beechey Island, the post at which we do not anticipate open water before the 32nd of August : and at tliat moment the sudden arrival of a steamer, with as sudden orders to iiijandon, urnl such orders given mulcr the full conviction Hf)-!..] UKTUHN OK SHOOTING I'AIITY, III that 1 was irorl/u/ of tin; Irn-sf ir/joHi d in me: nTtiiinl} those who sclcrtcd iiii' never contemplated my shil'tin}>; any responsibility on those whose o/tinintis 1 niilexiiius ^f s»omc who ha\e not seen nuu'h .'( ' \ V \ i j 1 i 1 I!. J:l: il! i li IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^., 1.0 ^K* \2A i 1.1 ■ 2.2 H^ li£ 12.0 I nils 1.8 1:25 1111114 IIIIIL6 VQ o^ /a ^r '/ /A HiotDgraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716)S72-4S03 \ ^^ 4 s? •.'>» ' ^ <> '^'^^- "^ f ^ ^ f> pp 1'! 172 UEAIUNO MUSTAHI) AND CRESS. [/tj)ril, I' 'I i m ^ 'i ■ . daylight or been exposed to the open air for the last sl\ months with a more natural tint of carnation. J/jril 23. — The weather has evidently taken a favour- able change; the temperature is now at 125°, snow thawing on the dark po/tions of the land, the ship's sides, and awnings directly exposed to the sun's rays, but within the awnings on our quarter-deck the tempe- rature showing 21°; the dri[)pings remind one strongly of some limestone cave, where the icicle and the deposit on the deck represent the stalactite and stalagmite. The temperatures for the last ten days have gained the p/ii >| N , I - 1- ( t in DC »■ ' • , ( - ,,' .! o oc I- 5 1851. KXTHFME (OLD RFNlvVTII SNOW. 173 has been improved in colour lately l)y exposure to a very faint ray of light down tlie eomi)anit)n skylight. The interval in which this tine crop has been produced is 1 08 hours. 1 find, from u»y notes, the following : — " The light in forty-eight hours produced a vivid green instead of a sickly pea-green." The amount raised in the holds alongside the Sylvester furnace, under a teniperatin-c of 54°, has reached eight pounds, and has been distributc.i principally to those of scorbutic diathesis. May 1. — On this day I had hoped to start for Becchey Island, but that event now appears to be postponed for some time, or at least until the season permits of floating the ship, an operation demanding more than the present force of our debilitated and absent crew will afford. Tlu; temperature last night fell as low as —15°, but tlu; means of the concluding days of April afford as under : — ■ April 28, inrx. +21°; min. +1.5°; moan, 17-875°. April 29, „ +23°; „ +lti°; „ l'J'(Ulfi°. April 30, „ +20°; „ -3°; „ !)-500". The monthly result affords : — Max. +23-00°; min. — 37-50°; mean, -5-197°; the mean for the corresponding term last year being —-8127°. The thermometers buried in the snow-bank, although most critically and carefully managed by Mr. Loncy, do not appear to be trustworthy as instruments for reliable results ; still they afford certain proof of the warmer temperature of the snow, as may be seen from the annexed Plate. The thermometer inserted in the wooden tube at four foet below the earth's surface coin- cides nearly with No. G in the snow. The indices, when \\ i ih 174 HKTl'llN OV ("<»1M,\NI)KU HICMAHDS. Mtijl, ii-'r i \V \ <'\|)Osed to tomjx'rntnros hclow — 20° in tlie air, do not act satisfactorily ; indeed I can only repeat here my en- tire want of confidence in any Six's thermometer which lias passed throngh my hands on this service. As the tirni api)roaches for th(! return of our rehet sledges, our trusty Sergeant of Marines and a select (m I companion were despatched, with orders to e.icamj) on the brow of a commahdhig hill about three miles to the southward, to watch for and signalize any approach of sledg(;s, as well as to sccnu* the heights soi'lherly for game. Today they were visited by some of our (excur- sionists, wiio brought back one hare, which was allotted to the sick. It is sirav.ge how some men will recoil at being termed invalids, or even subjects for attention ; instead of any gratitude for the addition, they (.referred the preserved meats. Such is human nature ! On the morning of the 3rd the signal from the Ser- geant's station announced the sight of sledges advancing, and about eleven a.m. the 'Sir Edward' and 'Success' sledges, with Connnander Richards and INIr. Herbert, returned, bringing intelligence of the arrival of Com- mander M'Clure and his crew (excepting one invaUd, to follow with the ' Resolute's') at Reechey Island. May 4. — This, being onr ten-day interval, exhibits ])ut little advance in the mean temperatiu'e ; maxinunn + 23°, minimum — 1(5-5°, mean -4-79S°. The water beneath the ice, although it still maintauis the standard of 295°, nevertheless exhibits decided thawing inflncnce wherever it can find its way up, pcr- colathig the solid floe and thawing the partial joints formed by the overlapping of " the run" of October last. 1854.J KXPFKIMKNTS OS S\()\V-r0VKI c-lojirly inaiiifcstod by the rising of th(! water where we eoiniiioneed a cutting over our anchor, as well as at a crack near tlie sternpost, where tiie ehb and flow of tide is clearlv inch* ited, not- withstanthng temperatures as low as — Ijf. Yesterday two holes were driven horizontally into the snow-bank near the .ship ; one at the deinided floe edge, the other three feet above and immediately over; into these holes two spirit minimum thermometers were care fully inserted, and the holes well closed with snow. 'J'he temperaturcb were raised to 82° before insertion, and that night the external register indicated — 12-5°. At first sight these experiments may be supposed to be sim- ply connected with meteorology; but my object had further reference — disregarding empirical assertion — to the most advantageous position for ])itching tents, on ice, snow, or gravel. I have, upon my cvn impression, as before observed, preferred snow, and c.ie Esquimaux do not, I believe, clear it off to the ground when they construct their snow-houscs ; I find it, moreover, plea- santer to projecting bones than irregular ice or gravel. Maif G. — Today we commenced lining out the cut- tings for our dock to lead the ship ahead and ofF-shore, before we lose the substantial floating power of the ice should the depth prove scant ; for it is evident to my senses, that whilst thus cradled and uplifted it would I)rove a very easy matter to transi)ort the entire floating mass to seaward, when the weight of the ship freed from ice might defy our exertions. On the evening of the 7th our first sledge of the mail line, intended to be maintained, conveying instrun\cnts, k % ^p I 17(» RST.MU.ISII FOTH I'OSTS FOU SLKIXil.S. [-^tai/, etc. to Jk'cchcy Isliuul, (lc|)arto(l. I lind fully coiitcm- pliited the necessity of some sueli proceeding before (|uitting I'lngliind, and tlie propriety of establishing rest- ing-phices or houses of call, should necessity rechicc us to the al)andoninent of tli(! vessels. This I now determined to carj'y out, establishing four journey positions in the fifty-two intervening miles, where tents, and jill tiic neces- saries for cooking, sleeping, etc., would be provided, and thus nlieve eacli sledge of that weight, anioimting, as uiuler, to 335 lbs. Tent and grar for ditto fi2 llw. Sl<'('i)iiifi' l)iijfs 71 liull'alo vol)c ami cover 73 Walcrprooi' and caiivati bol loins . . . I-S Cookinj? ai)i)anitns 32 ;\x<', pick, spade, boat-hook . . . . 2(i Boarding' i)ikes 20 3.'{.5 This arrangement ensures the dry tent, ready pitched with due preparation on arrival, by the party in posses- sion, and further, relief from the trouble of packing on resuming the march. The stations at present contem- j)latcd are Cape Osborn, Cape Grinnell, Cape Howden, or Baring Rendezvous (commanded by Sergeant JefFe- ries), and Cape Spencer. The consumption of fuel, and other r(?asons, rendered it expedient to withdraw all the tent-keei)ers but the Ser- geant and his assistant at Baring Rendezvous, where a supply of jn'ovisious would be accumulated to aid the travellers, as well as meet any emergency, should a sud- den disruption of the ice or other event compel the crew to seek refuge at Beechey Island. U 177 CHAPTER VI. Lifting of the Ship.— Lntornl Comprpssion. — Frerziiig i„ l^ottles.— Snow Thermonictcrs.— Hisi; and Fall of VVat.-r.— HIasting.— Fiijrhi of Rirds.— Letter to Captain Kellett.— Promilinss of Lieiitrnant Mecliani.— Captain Coliinson's Records.— Doaly Ishmd.— Ikrehcy Ishmd.— Proceedings of Lieutenant Hamilton.— Irre-^nlarity of Tides. — Land Springs.— Renunicration of Crews,— Orders. My attention during the last few days has been much engaged outside of the ship ; indeed, superintending the duties on the dock cutting; and I cannot but observe that the peculiar lifting of the ship, added to the gaping of the ice at the old floe level, induces me to offer the following facts and reasons, which T leave to those whom it may concern to combat. In October last I contemplated this lifting, and, as then noticed, directed a gauge batten to be securely nailed to the sternpost, so as to indicate any upheaving. I now notice that this batten indicates a rise, or lift of the shii), fom-tcen inches above the floe level of that period. Upon mature reflection, and viewing the undoubted strain evident at the last third of her length, or the stern l)ortion, I am inclined to consider that up to midwinter or beyond, as the ice gradually consolidated, its expan- VOL. 11. N >' : il h 1 rr •" 4yi. '% w,^ ill ■ I i J :' 178 I'owKU oi' i.M'K'nr, (".)M1'RK.ssion. Mfn/, sivc force was cxrrtcd on i!iv ojjpositi? sidi-s of I lie scfj- inciits of our rrndli' dock, wliioh, ns it fonncd under the eounter, presented a nearer approach to the wedgc' in- fluence, and thus imperceptibly teiuh-d to hfl Hie vessel. If the fluid water would effect this, surely it will not he contended tliat solid ice could not. Tiiis wedge power, having no yielding surfaces late- rally, 1 assume to he one, if not the grand, cause of the heavy cracks, or reports, before alluded to, and termed "cracking of bolts," and which ceased entirely nbout January, as before stated. Now, reverting to the action of freezing on different fluids in slight glass cyhndrical jars, they would, if con- fined at the orifice, under conuncn reasoning, l)e broken at the moment of complete congelation, by the sudden expansion. But my experience teaches nic that this is not a law, and that under the course of freezing, we have first; he coatmg of f^.ie crystals on the outer exposed sur- faces; next, the uccumulation of the floating separate crystals into a sludgy, creamy snow or ice ; and finally, consolidation and expansion. This latter is an enormous power ; but its action, I find, depends very much on the vessel in which it is contained. I never, freezing at tem- peratures at —51°, found it break or crack any glass vessel ; but I noticed that where it froze in the long tube (nine inches by five-eighths bore), it elongated the ice, and forced it vertically out of the tube to the extent required by Nature. In bottled fluids, which being corked offered resistance, I found they were burst at the shoulder near the neck when of the wine-bottle form ; but where beer or ale was ex[)osed in champagne- : 'if 1851 FPFFOT OF FRFFZIVfi IN noTTI.F.R. 171) hottlos, nft'ordinpr no nl)rni)t opposition, that the ic(! first forming in the long nnrrow ncrk simply displuccd tho cork, nnd forcing the icy ccmc into tlu; lurk, snvcd tlio fluid l)y Xnturo's own cork ! In the case of tlic formntion of tlic Hoc, cnrcful cxi)cri. mcnt tenches us tliat the daily rate of freezing does not exceed 0- ^^) inch per (hem : that tiie h)\ver stratum of ico is, so to speak, rotten until it assumes an accumulated thickness of eight or ten inches ; then it becomes homo- geneous with the upper floe ice; and if it does not buckle and break by lateral pressure, its expansive force is likely to act on the ship and gradually lift her, until she l)ecomes eventually perfectly imbedded and secured from further pressure by the great solidity of the ice Itself. This motion upwards appears to be indicated by the surface line of cradling ^^r//;///^ at the presumed water- line, just in such a degree as would naturally be noticed in replacing any vessel sitting in a mould of wax, where some extraneous matter prevented it from falling into its proper position. Another curious fact has just been de- termined, viz. that at the stern, where but twelve feet w^atcr could be found in October last, we have now six- teen feet : consequently the ship cannot be aground. This is matter beyond my comprehension, without call- mg m the aid of the same expansion acting between the position occupied by the ship and the land. Mai/ 13.— Yesterday three sledges, commanded by Lieutenant May, Messrs. Grove and Pim, jNIates, re- turned, but brought no news of importance from Beechey Island. The tent depots already alluded to on this route were estnbliched. X 2 J' :i'' m i J.I ISO F.rir.cr on svow tiikhmomktkks. mil/, ii' w hi ■'( At noon today the thcrnioineti rs pliu'cd in tlu; snow- bank on till! 3i(l woro witlulniwn : that at the floe sur- fac(! in ccjntiiet with the ici- indicuteil +ir; the other, having three feet snow heneath and one loot aliove, = -|-2": botli rose inunediately 2'^. The external ther- mometer was 1&° at tlic same moment. These thermo- meters therefore re|)resent tlie minima ganges ; the ex- ternal indicating, during tliis ten-day interval, on the three consecutive days, the low temperatures of —\\f, —15'^, — 10^; the ice therefore, }>rotected by a covering of snow three feet in depth, was warmer by — 19° + 1 ••" = 33° ; and one foot, probably the thickness of a rapidly constructed snow-house, would afford by this experiment + 19° + 2°, or 21° warmer than the external air, and free from the searching power of the breeze, which, after all, is the most important consideration in such calcu- lations. The thermometers were of deep tints of r\d)y when first embarked ; but long exposure to light had so much affected one, that it now presented a pale and)cr hue. These were now exposed on a brown spar, to test the sun's direct rays : the amber rose to 1 7°, the ruby to 18°. Further exposure on the black sides of the ship afforded amber 40°, ruby 42°. They were then at this mark replaced in the snow. ]\[(iy 14. — Our temperatures during the last ten days afford max. +18°, min. —19°, mean +2"529°: notnmch warmth to boast of. Having noticed several indications of more determined tidiil influence, experiments were tried today by inserting a tide-pole through the fire-hohi (a hole about six feet square, abreast the gangw.ay, kept open for obtaining salt water in case of fire). This in- 1854.] ni8K AND HAM, OF WATKH. 181 ilicati'il no less tliiiii twenty -one t'ci't cif^lit iiirlic s iiriiid- ships. Till! tidf It'll oiio loot within the hour; fully pi'oviiif?, us the ship fell with it, that she is ice- jw well i\» water-borne. This remark requires further comment. The rise and fall of tide is apparent, not only on the tidi;-pole, but also on the ice ; proving that until tlu; floe becomes en- tirely free from the shore, it does not rise and fall to the c.vft'nt to which the water indicates it should. Thus, in addition to the rise and fall as exhibited by the true in- dex (the tide gauge secured Lo the bottom), wc notice a rise and fall between shelf cakes of ice (lejjosited at high and low water, a distance of eighteen inches, fully proving a resistance in rising due to floatation if fiee. This is specially evident at the in-shore crac^ks, where the com- munication is impeded at high water by thin sludgy ice and water. Although the ice innnediately about the after parts of the ship does not gauge above seven feet in thick- ness, we find that it increases rajjidly towards the bows, being fourteen feet at the stem and twenty-four feet at twelve feet ahead. The water now begins to inconnnode our labourers at the duck, flowing u[) by eery crevice of the disjointed pack. The crew have been transferred to the * Pioneer,' in order to [jurify and paint the ship between decks. Maj/ 15. — The accunmlalion of medical officers and invalids at Ik'echey Island rendering it prudent to place the senior medical officer there, 1 despatched Dr. Lyall by the mail sledge (Lieutenant May) today, w ith the ne- cessary powers to take ehargt' of (he luMpilal, rcdu'iiiiiji Mr. Uieards to do ilu(\ here. 11 i ' i: ii aWI 18- ACCIDENT TO LIEUTENANT PIM. [Mai/, :] May 22. — The 'Enterprise' (Lieuteiumt Cheyiie) re- turned on tilt! 17tli : no news of Captain K(;llett's arrival. Prayers were read yesterday on board the ' Pioneer ;' the weather still cold and raw. Wolf hovering, but infinitely too cunning for our most expert sportsmen. This even- ing Mr. Taylor (the Boatswain) and my Coxswain returned from an excursion, having met with Mr. Herbert at Cape Grinncll, and brought on the letters. One ptarmigan had been shot by the Sergeant. They saw a large bear, but he ])roved equally cunning as the wolf, having dodged them, as well :., the dogs, amongst the hammocks on the coast-line. Punch, however, never behind in enduring energy, seems to have remained behind alone, watching the enemy, returning late and very much fatigued : half crippled, and all his best teeth useless, his tom-age is astonishing ! Late this evening Mr. Herbert reached ; the intelli- gence brought by him is unfortunate. Lieutenaiit Piui, who had superseded Lieutenant Cheyne at the de})ut at Cape Hotliam, and appointed to watch the final sledge parties from the ' Resolute,' had shattered his hand by the bursting of his towling-picce when firing at a bear. Portu'iately Dr. Domville, in charge of a sick man, tra- vellii'g full speed with the dogs, arrived in time to rc'uler assistance ; he had reached the ' North Star,' and the wound was merely flesh, not iinuiediately serious. What influence has the climate of this cruise in destroy- ing so many fowling-pieces ? The seaman mentioned by Ca[)tain Kellett as not e\- ()ected to sur\ive had, by the aid of dogs and the great care of Dr. Domville, reached the ' Xorlh Star' alive ; but 1854.] EXPERIMENT ON SNOW COVER INC. 183 the report of the medical officers afforded no lioi)e of re- covery, even if he lived many hours. May 24. — Ilcr Majesty's birthday was kept hy tlie sole means I had at command, viz. increase of rations ; for the rest, our loyalty is not a whit the less, and nuist support us unsuspected. The second interval of ten days on the thermometers bmied in snow affords similar proof of the protecting power it affords ; in this case — 1 foot beneath = + 8°; niiu. —\\° + 8'' =19'^; max. +28 5'. 3 feet „ = +16°; luiii. -11° +10^ =27°. The general temperature improves on the ten days, — max. +28-50°; min. —1100°; mean, +11194°. Our first attempts with powder to remove the uj)per ice in the dock were tried today ; the results ])recisely what I anticipated. The holes were nine feet in depth, vertical, and the charges 12 lbs. Tlioy failed to force the bottom downwards, as some liad contemplated, al- though they were tamped with close sludge and long fuse for seven feet. The cracks, owing to ])resent j)res- sure, will instantly reunite ; the only rational mode is by digging down, and driving horizontal or oblique holes. 1 then tried charges of 20 ll)s. each, passed i/irouf/h nine feet ice, without any proportionate disturbance of ship or ice ; but on passnig through the ice in seventeen feet, and resting the charge on the hutlom, the ship received a very severe shock from stem to stern, extending even, to one hundred yards between the ship and ' Pioneer,' but the ice was not started u})wards satisfactorily ! This result forcibly reminded mc of particular occasions be- tween the 30lh of August and Itli of S;p((,inl)er last, 1 ! 1'' I \ ' ill I. ri •> Si mmmmmm M 184 BLASTING EXPERIMENTS. [June, when the charges for important purposes were placed between layers of ice, affording the point d'appui; the action on those occasions only seemed to warrant such heavy expenditure. Water is easily displaced by air; and from a depth of twenty-one feet, where there was no solid matter to resist, it was thrown well above our mastheads without beneficial displacement of the floe. Its result in critical positions, and placed with judgment, I have before noticed. 3Ia^ 28. — Our day of rest. I cannot yet see much beneficial effect resulting from the free use of gun- powder. The heavy floe has not yielded in any sensible masses ; indeed, my own con^^iction is adverse, — that it hinders more important cuttings with the saw. Our work is confined to heavy quarrying and clearing out the loose pieces resulting from small tico or four pound charges. June 1 is ushered in with sleety, snowy weather, apd u temperatm-e of 40"5°, without sun. A dog-sledge, with Mr. Dean, Carpenter, of the * Resolute,' and one man, reached, bringing intelligence of the arrival of Captain Kellett at Beechey Island, but suffering from illness. Tjiis journey was effected with seven dogs in twenty -four hours. June 3. — I shall continue our report of blasting ope- rations because I feel satisfied that the results may afford information even to those engaged in more stubborn materials, and possibly may be useful in ice-bound har- l)ours, as affording some test of the available powers of man, if judiciously duocted. OiU' saw cuts had at Iciiglli been completed on three % I I. 1854.] MAN-POVVEll ASCERTAINED. 185 sides of a square, affording a surface of forty feet in width by thirty ahead, or twelve hundred square feet ; mean depth, twenty-one feet. I contended against heavy charges, and in this instance prepared tliree of 10 and three of 4 lbs. The first ten-pound charge, placed near the bottom, at the cut in eighteen feet next the bow, effec- tually displaced this entire mass, and two, of four pounds each, effectually brought up tie bow cradling. I have of late calculated minutely the working powers of the men engaged.* The result proves that, with numbers varying from ten to sixteen, and not of full power, they have broken up and thrown to the dock wall, from whence others remove it, six hundred tons of ice (by shovels and picks), affording a mean rate of one ton per hour for each man during the working intervals. Some of our strong hands have indeed far exceeded, I might say, even doubled, this; but the mean labour amounts to that which I have stated. Durhig this labour, which, in cold climates, induces great thirst, I at first ordered an issue of lemonade ; but this was found to disagree with their constitutions, and variations from time to time were made, in consultation with the medical officer, until it at length reached pretty strong brandy punch. This not only improved theii- spu-its and working condition, but materially conduced to their general health. The assembled crews liere and at Bccchey Island hav- ing, by special order, been surveyed by the surgeons and reported on in three classes, — fit for any duty, fit for light duty, and unfit for any exposure, — drafts were for- * These result I'loiii the masaes ul' iee iciuovecl in six cla^s of Icii >\ oikiiifT liouia. I I Ill • ii ( 'I ■r '! !.: i. i r^ 18G FLIGHT OF BIRDS NOTICED. [Ju/w, warded hither from the first class, and our weakly men, \\ ho might be unable to move on any sudden cmcrge)icy, together with a change for every man in the shij), for- warded to Bcechey Island. We were thus prepared to devote the combined energies of the S(piadron to extri- cate these vessels, nor did I dream of eventual failure. June 3. — Ten-day temperatures afford, max. +4050°; miu. —900°; mean, +2426°. About the 9th of June, birds, principally brent-geese, eider-duck, and gulls, began to make their appearance on their northern flight, and three ptarmigan and one hare were forwarded by the Sergeant from Baring Ken- dezvous. The 'Pioneer's' screw having been reported as in danger, the necessary measures were adopted to re- lease it from ice, when it was found to be uninjured. We were now advancing steadily with our dock, and com- menced reeving our heavy piu'chascs to start the ship. Direct force I doubted, and, to aid in effecting my object, laid out a second at right angles on the port bow. The Small Bower (llodgers'), on heaving a good strain, came home clear, underneath the ice, and eventually readied our bows again ; both cable and anchor were well polished. The Best Bower cable was still frozen in with the floe, and, imtil the ship was free, that could not be recovered, for in blasting and cutting over it they had broken the buoy rope. xVt noon of the 13th a dog-sledge was reported, and I went out to receive the visitor, which proved to be IMonsieur De Bray. My salutation was, " Well, you bring me news of CoUinson's safety ?" " Yes, Sir, he is safe! and 1 have i!')euments here for you," pointing to 1854. FIRST PURCHASE FAILS. 1S7 his knapsack ; of wliich presently, Tlic ten-day interval of this, the 13th of June, afibrds, — max. 33 5"; niin. 1500°; mean, 241 54°: still unnaturally cold for this season. On the 1 5th JNIonsieur De IJray returned to Beechey Island, and on the day following the 'Dove' whaler, on a new sledge consti'ucted for her, followed. Another boat will l)e forwarded to Baring Rendezvous, and the 'Hamilton' and my own gig, to bear my pendant, will eventually go to Beechey Island. Before proceeding to the report of the proceedings of the western search by Lieutenant Mecham and Mr. Krabbe, I will place the ship afloat, and briefly observe on the difficulties attend- ing such labours, where excavation to such an extent had to be pursued. On the 10th the purchase ahead was tried, but it straightCi.ed the flukes of the ice and stream anchors, and displaced the pin of the purchase-block, splitthig it to l)ieces ! The effort proposed was to tear the ship from her starboard adhesion to th' ice, the saw cuts bcinu' free along the entire povt side and one on the starboard {tchich froze a,s cut). A heavy purchase from the mast- head, to induce a heel on this crank ship, was also brought in aid, but Avithout success. Verily this ice work is a puzzlhig bit of engineering, and demands more thought to meet its caprices than any other operation in wliich 1 have been engaged. Under water we cannot see, but we know that we have more dejjtli to float her than we rcfiuire. By the powers applied, under ordinary pre- sumptions, she should move ahead or yield to the force applied to incline her from llie nj>right position. i( . I ■ ' t; 18S SECOND LATERAL POWER EFFECTIVE. \June, hi Fui'thcr measures, for powers lit(/e short of (langerom, were prepared, and on the morning of the 9tli I had made my mmd up for a result before I retired to rest. Before six we had succeeded, by saws and by using a seventy-two feet hand-mast as a vertical batterhig ram, hi dislodging the ice along the port side up to the bend of the counter; powder was also used to an alarming extent, as far as crockery and pier-glasses were con- cerned. The matter now resolved itself into one of power by purchases. We had built a new purchase-block capable of resistance. The direct ahead purchase was composed of two threefold and one leading block, or three by four, brought to Phillips's capstan with the full power, and double runner luff on the standing parts. Yet she moved not ; and the falls loould bear no more. My rectangular purchase of similar power, direct through the bow port, and secured to the grounded ice by iron necklaces, was now brought into action ; this was also led to the capstan, and when well taut I paused, shifting my position to the starboard cathead, and there watching the effect on the parallel saw cuts along that side. In all such operations the princii)al actor is in a degree on the stage; he calculates that he is intently watched by every eye, and he knows when to be silent, when to order, and when to cheer, or ask for that power which none but excited hearts can afibrd. I saw the influence; I saw she moved. "Silence!" " Heave taut ! " " Off she goes ! " One rallying cheer, and with such an impetus did bhe leap out of her cradle, that in her headloiig career .she tore out the ^lip ring-bolt of I^i^ 1854.] BLASTINO OENFRAU.Y INJUniriOUS. I ft!) the best bower cable drawing from ahnft the cathead. To describe what my feelings were I will not nndertake. The ship was again afloiit on her own clement, and my cares for a time were superseded by the ordinary course of service. Having thus far explained myself, I cannot but thanl^ officers as well as men for their exertions in their several stations. True it is that, invalid as I am, T worked |)os- sibly beyond what a Captain ought in other cases; but I had my object to fulfil, and notwithstanding some of the hardiest failed, excitement compiled me to stick to my post. To Conuuander Richards, Mr. Loney, Mr. Allard. Mr. Nares, the Boatswain, Mates, and crew, T feel that great praise is due. But for the entire modus operandi I am responsible, and I again rej)eat my regret that after the initial proceedings and finding water at the bow, I was persuaded to have recourse to gunpowder ; but when once used there is no limit. Concussion and radiating cracks have been madej eventually these caused very disheartening slips of the dock sides, entailing double labour. Physicians prescribe, but not unfrcquently swerve from their practice by some persuasion that it may do the patient no harm ; not immediate, it is true, but when it eventuates he thinks not the less of the result. On the other hand, gunpowder has its importance. A coifp is to be made, an effect produced on your sub- agents ; then, having satisfied yom'sclf that it will cause the desired effect, nuich as it may upset some of your petted schemes, yield to caprice, make a noise, shiver the mountain of ice, and seek for the moment of making l\ m I ! 190 FXTHAPT from CORPKSl'ONDKVfF,. Jfoir, the most of the wills wliich the spectacle has arrayed in your favour, or possibly softeued the undor-ciirrcnt which has steadily, though unseen, been working against you. Of such materials are liritish seamen composed. He who knows how to lead, how to humour thcnu, what can he not execute ? Tn order fully to compreliend my feelings at tliis in- stant, I extract from my letter by Monsieiu- De J^ray to Captain Kellett, June 15, 1854 : — " You will perceive, by my g(nieral correspondence, that I expected Collinson to return with Mecham, and I asked the question of De Bray before he made known to me this second piece of luck or misfortune, as it may eventuate, on your part. Success sharpens the aiTow-points of oiu' adversaries; and I sec too nmch of the world around me, not to fear that which reaches my cars now will be made in the hands of designing men a source of annoyance hereafter. Collinson, by my former suspicions, could not convey more than one officer and five men unprepared to any of the Hudson's Bay settlements ; » -.d even then not Avith- out some preparation to meet and aid him. I do not think, having so far succeeded, lie would desert his crew and leave them to find their way hither ; he would lead them himself; and if I am not wofully mistaken, he is now coming fast on the traces of Mecliam, or follow- ing up Peel's Channel by the southern coast of Albert Land. " We are not yet afloat — every blast does mischief — and if we go on at the present rate, we shall blast a canal towards Beechey Island before we get her a foot ahead ! I am against 'powder ; but it is so frequently intimated 185 A.J PROCKFnTNGS OF I.TEUTTIN'AXT MEfllAM. 191 ' tlmt nothing but n blast will do,' tjiat I nm occasion- ally persuaded : very nearly on every occasion it has been followed by a prodigious slij), tilling up a week's labour." That very night, after the departure of I)e Bray, she was afloat ! I will return to the intelligence brought by Monsieiu- Dc Bray. On the .'Jrd of April, lS5 Her Majesty's Ship Resolute and tender Ix hig at tV. t time in their Winter Quarters, twenty-eight miles south-west by south of ('ape Cockburn, or in latitude 7!° 42'N., longitude 101°22' W., Captain Kellctt despatched Lieutenant Mechani, of the ' Resolute,' and Mr. Krabbe, of the ' Intrepid,' with in- structions to visit and examine the depot at Dcaly Island, and then to prosecute their respective journeys ; the for- mer to the Princess Royal Islands and Strait, the latter to the ' Investigator,' and ascertain if any of Captain Col- linson's parties had visited any of the stations in the rear of Commander M'Clurc. Lieutenant Mecham, with Mr. Krabbe under his com- mand, reached the Sailors' Home at Uealy Island on the 12th, somewhat touched by snow blindness and sore feet at this early period of the season. The "Home" was found in perfect condition, well banked up with snow on the outside, but the interior perfectly free from drift. Captain Kellctt speaks in high terms of his Carpenter, Mr. Deans, who was the architect, and, by the judicious pitch given to the roof, ascribes its freedom from snow. A portion of bread in one of the tanks was found to be slightly damaged, and one rum cask about a quarter short of contents. They experienced some difficulty in effecting an entry. I i "i t r I- r "T; ' It ii I ' t , I • i'''h:i B. 192 PnOfEEIUNflS OF I.FFUTKVAXT MErilAM. \J/Ofr, owing to tlic door hviurr bnrriradiid by wet sods and flic necessary implements secured inaide, a caution not lost upon tli(!m. After provisioning and securing "the Home," they proceeded on the 13th, deposited a record on "the Sandstone " in Winter Harbour, crossed over Point Ilcarne, and travelled about three miles off the land to- wards Cape Providence. On the 18th they shaped their course for Cape Russell the north-east point of liaring or Banks' Land, and changed their hours of travel from day to night. About eight miles south of Cape Providence they en- countered the first range of heavy lumimocks, composed of young ice ; having passed through this, which was es- timated at five miles in breadth, they entered on the old floes, generally girt by ridges of pressed-up young ice. About the centre of the Strait, dividing Melville Island from Banks' Land, they found the floes "old, and of greater extent;" and as they approached the southern land, being visited by dense fogs, they frequently found themselves entangled among hummocks and deep snow, which rendered travelling very laborious and harassing. On the 24th of April the land was indistinctly seen, by telescope, about six miles distant ; and shortly after, on the atmosphere clearing, they found that they had passed through the belt of old ice, and before them a large extent of young pressed-up ice presented. On the 25th they reached a low point at the entrance of an inlet, where they encamped, believing it to be Cape Russell, as the high land near Cape Providence on Mel- ville Island was distinctly perceptible, bearing about north three-quarters east. I »« 1851. I l'HOrF,F,T)T\nS of MEIITENANT MECIIAM. 1 ».s At this position liicuti'imiit Meclmm deposited eleven days' i)rovisioiis, mid Mv. Krul)l)e parted eonipiniy in tlie prosecution of his onh-rs to seek the? ' Invcvsti-^'iitor' in the May of McTcy, and on his ivdnii lo the Sailors' Home to re-examine and separate the good fiom the dumaged bread. Quitting tliis mvheUo, Lieutenant Mcchani proceeded to the soutli-soutli-west, following the trend of the land; but on the 20th meeting with very old ice, detiply co- vered with snow, totally disagreeing in character with that described as occurring in Prince of Wales Strait, moreover the high land on cither side terminating ab- ruptly, beyond which the coast appeared to be low and sweeping across the distance, satisfied him that he had not hit upon the intended landfall. He therefore retraced his steps, reduced the allowance to one-hal." recovered his cachette, and in two joimieys was more successful in reaching the entrance of Prince of Wales Straits, The bearings obtained of Melville Island and other observa- tions satisfied him that the land was laid down too far to the eastward. Having reached a position south of Cape Russell, he deposited his cache, and proceeded to the south-west- ward, keeping about two miles off the land. Notwithstanding the ice was considerably pressed uj), the snow which filled the irregularities was tolerably hard, and travelling good. On several low points, on which he landed to obtain fuel, he found drift-wood in great abundance. On the 7th of May, at midnight, he landed on the Princess Royal Islands, where; on cx.-'inining the cairn. J.J VOL. II. ; o i! !:f i •' n 104 f AfTATN rOT.UNSON S TlF.rOWDS \Jitnp, he wnH irwardcd lor liia exertions by tlie discovery of the records left l»y 1 1. M.S. Enterprise, vviiicli, having entered this Strait on JU)th of Aii}];nst, 1^551, wintered in the piiek off ill 1851-52 ; anil tlie docninent, re-signed 21)th of May, 1852, furtlier stated that he passed uj) to Point P(!el, I'etiirned, and, after following the west coast of Paring Ishnul as liigh ns hititucK; 72*^ 55' north, had n - tnrned, and wintered 1851-52 in hititnde 71° 35' north, longitude 1 1 7" 40' west. The record also intimated, " that further informa- tion of his movements would be found upon an islet in 71° 3f)' north, and bngitudc 11U° 0' west." Taking provision for ten days, Lientonant Meclmni started that night (morning in travelling time) to the southward, in quest of further information. After passing Point Gordon the bench was found to be thickly marked by the remains of Escpiimaux encanip- ments, and on the 9th of May they succeeded in reach- ing the islet alluded to, and after several hours' search found records, ten feet magnetic north of a small cairn built upon its summit. By these documents it appears that a party from the ' Kntcrprisc' (in the sledge Hesolution) had visited Point llearne on Melville Island in the summer of 1852 (Point Hearne is the north-western extreme of Parry's Winter Harbour), and that the other parties had examined the north and south coasts of Prince Albert's Land. Upon quitting this position on the 27th of August, 1852, Captain Collinson contemplated tracing the Chan- nel between WoUaston and Prince Albert's Land, as set forth in his documents. - :| 1854. PARTIES KKVI81T UKALV ISLAND. 11).-) After rchiiildinj? the rnirn, depositinjr charts, niul full iiifbnimtion coiicc-riiiiif,' our inovcnicnts, ns well as com- plcte notices of all the depots lodged on the IJivchey h. land route, Lieutenanl jMeehani coiiinieneed his return to Melville Island, reached the Princess lloyal Islands on the 13th. examined the whale-boat left there, and found her hi good condition ; deposited the rccpiisite records, provisioned, nnd having removed some articles found damaged to a higher and less exposed position, he dc spatchcd his sledge along the southern coast of the Straits, and, acconjpanied by one man with his Satellite (a small sledge or tender), pursued his examination along the northern coast, deposited records at Cape ilussell, rejoining his party on the 17th, ready to start. Having built a cairn, deposited records, and collected sufficient fuel (of which they had none) to last them to Melville Island, they moved forward. On the lUth of M(.y they cleared the Straits, steering direct for Cai)e i'rovidenee. The ice, extending ten miles off Cape Russell, they found to be that of last year's formation, without a crack. They then crossed a barrier of very heavy old hummocks, reached a lead of old floe, over which they travelled fifteen miles, entered a mixture of heavy hunniiocks of young presscd-up ice, and small floe-pieces of heavy old ice extending thirty miles. On the 23rd these were cleared about seven miles south by cast of Cape Provi- dence. On the 27th they reached the depot at Dealy Island, and found orders to return to Bcechey Island. They had suffered nnich from heavy falls of snow, attended by o 2 i^ >,; ' I 11' '1 w^ t lUO MKrUAM KEAf'lIFS BF.KCHEY IST;ANn. [June, 1 1' ■r V fa strong easterly vviiids, causing snow blindness through- out the party. At Dealy Island they found that Mr. Krabbc had re- turned, and gone forward on the 2Gtli, and Lieutenant Hamilton on the 21st. Lieutenant Mechain oliserves that they were gratified by the receipt of letters, newspapers, and news of all kinds contributed by their sliipmates, which, although it added to their pleasure, did not at all facilitate their rest. Anxious, we can all understand him to be, to connnu- nicatc this, his second piece of great succ(!ss ; first the document of Commander M'Clurc, and now those from Captain CoUinson. Onward he rushed, overtook Mr. Krabbe on the 30th near Point Griffiths, travelled in company to the Depot at Cape Cockburn, but, finding that he was able to move faster alone, left him to proceed at a more moderate pace, overtaking Lieutenant Ha- milton with the dog-sledge off Cape Capel, distressed for food for the animals. They were recruited by some damaged pemmican, in the hope of advancing him with the news to Beechey Island; but, aided by canvas, he managed to keep up, and shortly after reaching Cape llotham he transferred his sledge to Lieutenant Hamil- ton, and made the best of his way with the dogs to Beechey Island, reaching it at 4.30 a.m. of the 12th ; 152 travelling hours from Dealy Island, and averaging on Gl^ journeys in an absence of 70 days, 188 geographical, or 21 7 statute miles at the r/my rope/ — a feat, as far as the human constitution and the courage and spirit of the British seaman is concerned, 1 tlnnk without a parallel. I must now turn to Mr. Krabbe. Parting company )>; 1854. I'ROCCT.DINCiS or Ml?. KRAimK. 197 with Lieutenant Mecliaui (under sijcciul orders from Cap- tain Kcllett), on the 25tli of April, be skirted tlie beach westerly, and reached the ' Investigator,' in the Hay of Mercy, at 10.30 p.m. on the 5th of May. The tattered remains of the ensign and pendant were still flying ; and such had been the accumulation of drift snow on the northern side of the ship, that they were enabled to walk in over her gunwale. Tlierc was also a great quantity on her decks, but not suflficicnt to pre- vent them from easily obtaining an entrance by the fore hatchway. The ship's head was N. 30° W. true, the cabie hang- ing slack under her bow; heeled about 10° to starboard and slightly by the head. No signs of pressure around were perceptible, although the oakum was hanging very loosely out of many of her seams. Her position was S. 12° E., 1400 yards from the cairn, and 42G yards from the nearest point of the beach, her stern beinj^ in eleven fathoms water. On visiting between-decks everything ajjpeared in good order and the lower deck pretty free from frost, but overhead, on the orlop beams, there were great ac- cunmlations of ice. The water had leaked so nuich into the holds duriiiir the preceding suuuucr, that they were now full up to the orlop l)eams forward, and within ten inches of them abaft, then solid ice. He connnenced, in comi)liance with his Instructions, to clear the ship of all useful stores, and, in order to execute it more comfortably, repair defects of (•(luipment, etc., brought his crew on board. lor the (leLail of his operations and the stores landed, it I Ilk i I'' I V ■ ill , li I i- , . ; '■ . 1 « ' t ^ ; 1 ' y 1 ■ . ! 1 "i 1 (1 ' * 1 '' til • 1 1 ',1: V * '• I! f ^ i n 198 REACHES MELVILLE ISLAND. [June, I must beg to refer to his written report. The duty being complete on the 11th of May, hatches secured, and the sliip nearly as when visited, he commenced his return to Melville Island. He observes : — " Both in entering and leaving the bay I paid marked attention to the state of the ice in it, and I am confident that there was no water made inside a line from Point Providence (Banks* Land) to Point Back during 1853, but that there was open water during that season for two or three miles in width along the whole line, and which finally met and arrested pieces from the pack around the neighboiu'hood of Cape Hamilton. Alonff the cUfFs of Banks' Land also there was a belt of new ice from two to four miles wide, terminating in heavy pressure on Point Parker. The pack, from five miles north of Cape Hamilton to within ten miles of Melville Island, was somewhat heavier and older than found in crossing further eastward." He reached Melville Island on the 26th of May, shortly after midnight, where his orders, left by Lieu- tenant Hamilton, awaited him. Very little game was seen ; Captain Kellett remarks, " Too early to see much." Three deer and four nmsk-oxen were seen near Cape Hamilton, and three deer at Cape Providence. The remainder of his journey is comprised in that of Lieutenant Mccluun. He reached Bcechey Island, in company with Lieutenant Hamilton, on the 13tli of June. He notices that about the 31st of May the thaw had counnenced with drizzling rain, yet, notwithstanding vi'iy low teiupi'ratmvs, sore feet, etc. etc., not a single casualty was experienced by any oi' the travellers. {i 1854. PROCEEDINGS OF LIEUTENANT !IAMII/rON. 11)0 Licutonai.t Hamilton, with the clog-slodgc, was de- spatched by Captain Kellctt to Dealy Island c i the 8th of May, charged with orders for Lieutenant Mechani and Mr. Krabbe, to return from thence direct, via Cape Cockburn, to Becchey Island. ^ Reaching Dealy Island on the ISth, overland, from Port Griffiths, in the hope of finding musk-oxen or deer for his dogs, but in which he was inisuccessful, he de- posited his despatches and commenced his retui . He contrived, however, at Cape Bounty to kill two unisk-oxeii, and twenty-two ptarmigan supplied their own wants. On the 21st he quitted Dealy Island, and reached the depot on Byam Martin Island on the 27th. Two dogs out of his five became useless ; and the thaw, and other difficulties attending dog-sledges in wet weuthei', n.'tard- ed him much, so that he was ovcrttdvcn by the heavy sledges. At Cape Cockburn one tlog rejohied, but the other was lost. lie returned, as before stated, with Mr Krabbe, on the 12th. lour bears only were seen in hit journey, and none came within shot, and he ob- serves : — " Notwithstanding my local knowledge of the hunting gromids of Melville Island, and the time I was enabled to devote to shouting, not more than 300 lbs. of meat wa.- procured, and I should have found great (Hlfi- euhy in supporting my small party of one man and five dogs on the mueh-talked-of 'resources of the country.'" Tliat these three ollieors, with their fine crews, did (heir duty, nmst be ap[)arent to the simplest mind ; but (hat they will receive all the weight due to such exer- (ions they have oiily to look to (heir Lonlships ami (hcii n - I ! i. ■'f ;, ) I ) \ fi< 'jt ;!:?!' !i ■; ((. I' ¥U ly' ;! ( I 200 OBSEUVATIONS RELATIVE TO COLLINSON. [JfOW, superiors hero for thu true estimate of the endurance ex- hibited. The only gap apparent to me is the examina- tion of Point Hearne j but Captain Kellett observes ; — " You will see, by Collinson's record on the 27th of August, 1852, that he was waiting for a start before I left Lowther Island; so that even had I picked up a record of his in the autumn of that year, it would have availed him nothing; news of his whereabouts would certainly have gone home last year by Inglefield, which would have been a great thing. " That Collinson's officers left a cairn at Point Ilearne is next to impossible, for I had eight parties backwards and forwards over that Point, some of them shooting there, others encamped there ; it was also ono of my positions for a depot ! It has on it plenty of materials for building a cairn. It has been gone over at all sea- sons, with and without snow. " Mr. Pim, on his autumn trip in 1852, for the pur- [)Ose of })lacing his depot, reached as far as Cape Provi- dence, where he found a cairn (on its suumiit) ; in this cairn he found a pint bottle, with a leaf of a book on algebra in it, but on which tliere was nothing written. lie describes the cairn as very old and moss-grown, so that I su})pose it to have been one left by one of Parry's shooting parties. M'Clure did not leave it. " CoUinson in his record says, he will endeavom' to go along the south coast of Prince Albert's Land, and tlieii ii[) the strait (by the Kscpiimaux' drawing, an inlet) be- tween Wollaston and it, that one of his Lieutenants had t'xploreil for 130 miles. " Were he able to penetrate in that (hrection, and found lu 1854.] OPINFON AS TO IHS rKOCKEDlNGS. 201 it actually a strait, he would reach the north coast of the island, in the deep bight west of Cape Walker, where his progress (his ship) would most certainly be arrested both by heavy ice and probably shoal water (as by Om- manney's report). " Faihng to get through, he would return, and endea- vour to get easterly through Dolphin and Union Strait, near which he may have wintered. " If he wintered there or in its neighbourhood, which is most probable, as you will see how late his season was before he could make any advance, he most certainlv will have sent letters home, by way of ximerica, in the spring of 1853, which could not have reached in time for Ingleficld. But this timr; I am convinced that wc shall hear of hinij and I think he is clear of Behrin(/'s Siraifs, for he would asmredlif have time to get hack last autumn. Should he even have failed in getting back last year, and decided on leaving his ship this spring — were he indeed obliged to come this way — he would make for Port Leopold, the only place he knows of. Austin's departure he knew of, but not his return. " You may depend upon it Collinson will never reach this strait excejjt bij umij of Port Leopold, where informa- tion has been deposited by Pullen." These are matters of opinion, founded on facilities not evident to my senses and on my measures already adopted for the relief of Captain CoUii.son ; but although all Captain Kellett's observations are good pro tanto, yet J cannot lose sight of the dilHculty he would have to en- counter if he attempted to reach any uf the Hudson's Bay posts. ij Mb ' < I ' n , I ' . I 202 IIOUTE OF COLLINSON SUGOESTED. [Jn/tc, Witli the proceeding of Captain Collinson's expcvlition I have but an iiulirect connection, viz. that of his relief. But if Connnander M'Clurc had raised an independent cairn, instead of depositing his notice in that of M'Clin- tock's, and Captain Collinson's officer had left sufficient notice at Cape Ilearnc or Cape Providence, then my in- structions, or those of Captain Kellett, would have met the case. I understand that Lieutenant Pirn's orders permitted of his searching southerly; and I caimot ima- gine why neither he nor Commander M'Clure did not take steps for informing Captain Collinson, as we have now done in 1854, of the facility of his return to Eng- land by the new Norlh-east Pnssaye. Had I obtained intelligence of Captain Collinson last year, I certainly would have directed the main force of this Squadron to search and travel round the entire distance of Peel's Strait, meeting them, by relief from my own division, by Cape Batty, Cape Walker, and down Peel's Strait. With such information as I possess, all my measures have, to my conception, been satisfactorily taken. 1 fully agree with Captain Kellett on the one great point, and that must depend entirely on the safety of Captain Col- linson's ship and on hh vino of the retrogressive move- ment. I'nless therefore Captain Collinson's parties reach Boechey Island before the ''2'lnd of /l/'f/iisi, I shall con- sider that he is retracing his steps, and cannot be ex- pected by this route. Indeed, on very mature reflection, I think after his visit in 1S52, andfaUiny to repeat it in 1853, that he would not injudiciously waste time in such a piu'suit late in this season. On the l^th of June, Mr, .Jenkins (Mati') of tlu: ^\ r' • i' Hi 1854.J t IRREGULARITY OF TIDES. 203 ' North Star' reached the ship, bringing a rcinforecmont of six new hands. On the 19th, Lieutenant Hamilton, appointed to coniinaud the * Pioneer,' arrived in the dojr sledge, and on the 22nd Mr. M'Uougal, Master of 'R solute.' Commander Osborn returned by dog-sledge to the ' North Star.' June 23. — Our ten-day interval affords, maxinnun 44-00°; minimum, 18-50°; mean, 28-002°. Today the first true run of water was detected on the land, caused a hole to be dug and a tin inserted, which very soon filled, affording us a luxury as compared with our vapid tank water. June 25. — We have noticed that the weather here is more influenced at the actual moments of the moon's quartering than at the spring tides, which is opposed to my experience in other parts of the world. Today how- ever the moon changed at noon, but the wind, which has prevailed strong, still continues in heavy gusts; about eight P.M. it abated, and at midnight ceased. But the tide docs not aj)pear to coincide today with its natural movements, — not rising at noon by six feet to its natural height, at midnight it flowed six feet above ! Can this be due to an easterly gale affecting the tide in Lancaster Sound, as well as in the Queen's Channel, in contrary degrees ; in one case preventing the flow, in the other aiding the ebb ? June 20. — The availal)le force being now diverted to the extrication of the 'Pioneer,' Commaiuler Richards and Messrs. Herbert and Toms started on a shootin-y excursion in the vicinity of the first tent. The season appears to be rapidly advancing ; the well dug on Satur- ■W 201 I.AND-SPRINC.S FI.OWINd. [.Jnly, .i\ (lay, the 2 Ith, has overflowed, and thi; water now runs rapidly, from the snow above ; ni addition to which, se- veral tufts of saxifrage, which have been barely denuded of snow, have appeared in full bloom. Several brent-geese flew over our heads on their northern migration ; a pair alighted, but were too wary to permit any of our s'^ortsmen to gain within range. During the process of clearing the dock for the ' Pio- neer,' I repeated my experiments on the powers of the men. Three men were engaged, — one with a pick to break up, and two with shovels to throw out. The ice was received hi a tarpaulin, and thrown aside as weiglied. In twenty minutes they turned out 175Glbs., which is at the rate of 2 3 tons for three men per hour, or 1756 lbs. j)er man. These were indifferent men, taken with- out regard to strength. Jnlif 2. — During the last week it has continued to blow with considerable force from east to south-south- east, but as yet we have not been able to detect the slightest movement of the ice ; indeed our first intimation of any move hi our favour niust be from Becchey Island. I strolled over the heights overlooking the channel yes- terday, and obtained a very clear view of the distant land near Cape Phillips, as well as the hill-tops of Hamil- ton Island. My elevation was about eight hundred feet above the sea, and Cape Phillips distant forty-five miles. The thaw has set in so vigorously, and the rapidity of the inland torrents is so troublesome, that it is not safe to cross many of the ravhics. Even the passage from the ship to the shore is becomhig very troublesome, by leasou of the deep sludge and water retained within the W- 1854. IIKAIiTH OF CREWS AT HKKrilKY ISI,\NI). •?or) ico-ri(lgo thrown up in OctolxT. In sonu* places it ex- ceeds four feet, and brought adventurers into very awk- ward dilenunas. The main lloe is also e(jvered by very extensive surfaces of water, which the fissures are not sufficiently open yet to carry off. Commander Richards and party returned this evening without success. The few brent-geese and eider-duck are very shy ; indeed, after passing the neck of this channel abreast of Cape J3owden, game appears to forsake the land. The i)\\)c- riencc of two seasons negatives any confidence as to sub- sisting travellers by the aid of the gun. It is here, as I have found in my visits to other parts of the world, one lucky day may afford full occupation and furnish a heavy supply of game, but that may not be repeated ; nor have we any right, from such single events, to delude travellers with prospects of being sustained by a continuance of similar good fortune. On the 4th Mr. llochc arrived with a dog-sledge from Becchey Island. I gather from Captain Kellett's letter that travelling has now become troublesome ; he ob- serves, under date of 3rd of July : — " It was, and is at this moment, more swimming than walkiuff on the floe. A good deal of caution is necessary. Mr. Ilaswell had a narrow escape the other day ; he fell in, and could not possibly have got out but by the assistance of another person. " We have today twenty-one men on the sick list ; some few standards that will not be off before we reach England. Out of this number three only arc ' Investi- gator's' men, who have been ill nearly the last three years. The remainder of her men are looking right well, I'l 200 REMUNERATION OF OllEWS. [.//////, .(( much b(3ttor than ours, Thn diffbrcucc in hcaltli in these crcw'8 plainly shows it is not the climate, or description of provision, does the mischief, but the hard work in tra- in 1852-5;5-54 ' Investii'ators' had no travcl- vel imp:. Ung, and only sufficient exercise to keep them in health, whereas our crews made enormous journeys ; and depend upon it, tlie constant dragging and pressure of the belt on a man's chest, for such long periods, is more injurious than any other work a man can be given to perform. " What to give Jack, in recompense for his hard work, — whether a mark of distinction, situations for the old and worthy, or more money, — I cannot say, but I hope you will place their merits before their Lordshi})S and the co\mtry, and not allow their doings to die on being paid off. This will be, at least, some pleasure to the poor fellows, for Arctic Jacks all read. I feel that I may safely say, that their labour caimot be exaggerated, and I fear an idea of it cannot be exaggerated." In all these remarks I fully concur ; and I hope that my eflbrts may be rendered needless by the volunianj pyiitt from Government of an adequate remimeral'ion, not only to this Squadron, but to all who have been in- cluded, not in f/eo(jrapJdc amusement, but in the more distressing and continued searches for our missing coun- trijmen. " All the healthy portion of ' North Star's* crew are up with you. Of my own crew I find, by medical returns (which I send to you now complete), there arc thirty men fit for long service, No. I's. Of these, ff teen are officers, so that I think you will deem it expedient to de- lay the volunteering until the stciuner arrives." a J; 1854.] onnF.ns for srntoh at nEKriiEV island. 207 [ insert tlic followinfif, to allow thnt, nt nil events, the, next in connnand seemed to think with nie, that prudent lorcthonght was neei^ssary, and that, circuinstaneed as we are, o)'(/r)\onls of Wiitcr.—Cnirks.— Final PiTi.avntions.— Extrncts from De.s])Htcli.— Volmitccrs to prom-d to t'lc ' Assistaiicc.'—Eirt'ct of Tides.— State of tliti Ice— Thoiifrhts on Flitting'.— Evils of Dt- tention.— Witlidraw tlu; Crews.— Arrival of the ' I'iioMiix' and 'Tal- bot.'—Final Instrnotions.— Tablet to M. Hullot.— Beeehey Island. —Navy IJoard Inlet.— Liev.;iey.— Arrive at Cork. The ' Assistance' and ' Pioneer' were now in all respects ready for sea at any moment tlie ice may afford oppor- tunity. The thaw has worked so rapidly during the last ten days, that the Crystal Palace has not only va- nished, but all the ground about it is entirely denuded of snow. My duties here being complete, preparations were made for my journey to Beechey Island, and full instruc tions, in the spirit of the preceding memorandum, drawn up for the guidance of Commander Richards, under every imaginable difficulty. On the 12th of July, shortly after eight a.m., mth a fresh breeze from cast-south-east, and drizzling rain, our party, consisting of four sledges and two boats, accom- panied by Mr. Loney, Messrs. Nares, Jenkins, Grove, and Pim, left the ship for Beechey Island. The chro- nometers, under the special charge of Mr. Loney, were VOL. ir. « « ( '■ . a ! , ; i'. '-I : '210 poors oi' WA.'r.u vuovk tiiI', ick .//////, plnccd in lli(> ' llnniiltoii,' hnl tlic. jiirriiit^ over llu" roiij^h ice; iiidiR'cd inc to transfer tliciii to tlu- {(vjr, whicli wiis secured on one of our newly-construiited sledges, iidi\])led for this sjKTial service. With reference to tlie tnivelhug, and state of the ice travelled over, I find tiie foMowinu; rough notes. I'irst, as to tiie cliances of tlu; l)reak-U|) this season. The; fre- qu»!ncy of very extensive (tracks, transverse to the Chan- nel, or running cast and west, seem to offer Iiopes of a general disruption, as soon as the ice about Beeehev Is- land affords a space for southerly motion. Next, these cracks, which in some instances liad opened to widths of fiftecui and sixteen feet, rendei'ed .sK'(lg(! travel very pre- carious. Vast (piantities of water, resulting from exten- sive thaws, overlaid the ice, presenting almost the ii|ipear- anco of lakes. In many instances very deep holes oc- curred, hut the general depth of the worst that we tra- velled over did not exceed fourteen inches. This (le|)tli, to those marching and dragging the sledges, was f/Ks/m/n/ as " hip-high," to which limit they certainly wetted ; but the criterion, from which my opinion is deduced, it .'onnd- cd on the /'f/c/ tiiat the bottoms of the Inrgest siedires were not more than fourteen inches in luMght, and the carijoes were not wet. One fact is worth a dozen as- scrtions. Knee-deep would be (Mghteen inches, and hip-deep heavy wading. I kno^v fu I well the depressing effect of ten inches' water, and to (>\ercome that, din-ing several hoiu's' heavy drag, is killing. Once wet, the grciiter })art of a man's courage; is damped ; and for that day, or until he; can obtain a change on reaching his tent at night, his vahu; at the drag-belt is 'o a considi'rable ] , 1854. (HACKS UIMIXiKI) in F|,()\TIN(i ICK. 2U extent (laniJifrcd. V(;t lor wci-ks tliis lias l)ceii tlie con- dition of those eiifrji-rcd in ihv. Ion--; joiinieys of the latter part of th(! season. Sncli ar(! ilv. ills, the dillicnlties, the wearing miseries entailed on those engaged on this Arctic search. Far from thciir ship, they feel (hat life can only be preserved by sncli eontimious labonr, sncli eiidnranee, as we shoidd hesitate to iiilliet on the horse, if he cotilil smlalii il (?). Let any of the hardiest of my readers try the elfect of this on his own person for one day, nnder a temperatnre even of 21°, or 8" below Irec/ing, and say, does donbh* pay conip(!nsat(; for vinrf//-/irr or a liniKhrd rotifinuoiffi (Idijs of .siic/i fdfii/nr ^ In some instances this siiifaee water w%'is seen to rush with considerable velocity to esca[)e by the fissnres ; but in others, where a seal-hole only olfered its funnel shape, the vortex was highly dangerous to man or beast, and at times attended with considerable noise. The floe itself, at the fissures, aj)pcared to maintain off shore a mean thickness of four feet, but seldom reached six or seven feet. netwe(!n our two first tents, a distance of twenty geo- graphical miles, the oj)eii cracks, exciting hopi's of relief this season, occurred at intervals of nearly each mil(\ These wnsre forluiiately bridged by ice at narrow points, selected by the oflic('d. jhit for sii'h chances we should have been com|)elIed to unload and reload, ferrying our cargoes across, which would have •> o r ■)i 212 ACCIDKNT TO MR. JENKINS. \July, entailed considerablo delay. Fortunately we were thus aided throughout our journey. On reaching the Sergeant's oonnnand at Raring Ren- dezvous (Cape Rowden), I found that he and his aid had shot 108 dovekies, which, added to others shot by my worthy companions, Nares and Jenkins, "- route, aftbrded our crews a comfortable addition to their rations, and also a supply for the ship. Two sledges having deposited their cargoes here, returned to the ' Assistance.' At this depot we had now accunmlated sufficient ra- tions, fuel, etc., to aid our entire crews, should necessity impel them to seek this route. About midnight on the 16th we entered Union Ray, where we were immediately discovered from the Island Station, and a party of twenty men, forwarded by Captain Kellett to aid our men, joined most opportunely, for they had not been applied more than ten minutes to the drag-ropes of the gig when her sledge broke down, and it was found necessary to drag her on her keel the remainder of the journey. Whilst engaged on this duty, Mr. Jenkins, ever alive to his duty, and encouraging his men, received a very severe squeeze between the boat and a piece of ice, com- pletely crippling him for many days. About two A.M., on entering the floe of Erebus and Terror Ray, I was met by Captain Kellett, jNI'Clure, Pul- len, and IM'Clintock, ami very shortly after safely lodged in the depot enjoying the appellation of ' Nortluuuberland House.' Indeed, from the care and attention manifest in all the preparations for my comfort by Captain Kellett and PuUen, I feel satisfied that I enjoyed myself infi- nitely more, and in my own way, than if I had been at " mm 1854.] FINAL PREPARATIONS. 213 that instant near Charing Cross. A hot bath and rest relieved me. Of sleep I will say nothing ; but at my usual hour I found myself at breakfast beside a very comfortable fire. Having now established my head-quarters at North- umberland House, or, more strietly speaking, with my pendant in my gig, for which purpose I brought with me her own crew, it may not perhaps be amiss to explain that unless the ship to which a Captain belongs is pre- sent, or represented by one of her boats, a question may arise as to the power of command ; and notwithstanding all precedents in Arctic service indicate this power to be carried from ship to ship in the event of accidoiit, it does not unmistakably render it a law of the service, to which persons inclined to stir up discord may have recourse. Measures were now adopted for meeting every emer- gency, in the event of the sudden appearance of vessels from England ; either for reoccupying or abandoning the vessels, as well as completing this depot, to afford relief to any parties advanehig, or even to subsist part of om* own crews, should I find it necessary to despatch the ' North 8tar' to England at V\e earliest open water, re- maining behind myself to await the extrication of the ' Assistance.' At present such was my intention, as may be gathered from my public despatch of the 15th of Au- gust, 1854, written at a moment when I had deteiniined to send Captain Kellett home in connnand of the ' North Star.' Having in the previous part of my narrative given the greater portion, I shall merely add such extracts as relate to my views up to that date. 214 REVIEW OF MEASURES ADOPTED. [A((//Ust, m 1 I! 4 " I have thought fit to erect here, on a cominancUng terrace in rear of this house, a substantial i)illar, on which, stamped on leaden plates, the names and jjarticulars re- lative to all who have died in the execution of their duty in this Expedition are recorded." " At this present date no sign of open water cheers us, but I have the satisfaction of knowing that on the Gth H.M.S. Assistance and Pioneer were blown out. The latter grounded, and the engines could not be worked. She was soon got afloat, and my communication, dated three a.m. on the 10th, from Commander Richards, places the ship near Cape Grinnell, not far from the spot where the gaUant Bellot met his untimely end." " Considering that our northern and western searches i:i ve now terminated, I cannot but revert to the matters involved in this service entrusted to my direction. Al- though it was clearly explained, indeed most emphatically enjoined on me, that the discovery of new land had no part in my proposed duties, but the most rigorous and extended search for t^races of the missing Expedition was alone to occupy my mind : still, the one object, in the re- gion more particularly visited by me, could not be satis- factorily executed without the label of truth impressed on its every feature." " AVith both views before me, the conunanders of par- ties were directed to make straight courses to the utmost extent of travel from point to pohit, so far as provision would sustahi them forward and back." '• On the homeward journey, they, with lighter loads, had time to review eligible lines of re-search, and the orders given to the return eonnnissariat sledges tilled up ,1 III'' 1854.] IMPROBAHII-ITV OF PASSING NORTH. 215 nil minor gaps, until the Aviiole hoi'c tlio iip[)carance, at least, of a strict survey." " But secondary to these main instructions was the etlbrt to trace any connnuniciition with the ships under Captain ColUnson's connnand, and to deposit adecpiate sup})lies to aid them, in retreat, at the most eligible posi- tions." " That our eftbrts have entirely failed in our tirst and most exciting search rests mainly, I believe, on the con- viction that the ' Erebus' and ' Terror' did not advance westerly, or northerly, beyond Beechey Island; and it is a matter of no conmion importance to my mind, and ad- verse to any intention, of a northern movement, that not one shigle rcliafjie trace of detached sporting parties has been met with northerly. But, on the other hand, eant- crlij, at points where w'e should naturally expect explorers would be averse to proceed, numerous traces of tcnnpo- rary sojourn abound, fatal, in my mind, to any idea of further western discovery, and specially in the direction of Wellington Channel." " I admit, now that we knoic that navigable channels exist on either sides of Baiilie Hamilton and Dundas Islands, that it was not unnatural to supjjose that the ships might have escaped westerly by that route ; but, s[)eaking as a surveyor, or as a simple navigator, had 1 travelled from hence to the heights of Cape Osborn, or, further north, to Ca])e Hogarth, and beheld from thence, as I have done on the latter, and near the former, the clear panoramic view- of Wellington Channel, 1 wonld not have deemed the Queen's Channel of sulficient im- portance to risk my vestiet-s for exploration, nor of ecpial ;^! I 1^ .11 >■ ■ t ' fl ;^ 11 I ^ 216 CAPTAIN COLLINSON's RELIEF CERTAIN. [^/lUffUSt, value tc the Byam Martin Strait, easier of approach, and, for every object attainable, more secure than the course by the Wellington Channel." " I saw no features from the easteru shores to warrant any passage, nor is it fair to judge, from the very extra- ordinary season of 1852, that successive years would af- ford similar facility. When II. M.S. Assistance escapes out of Wellington Chamiel, then I may be able to make fm-ther remarks; but this I know, that 1853 and 1854 offered no invitations to the judicious naviyator to try his chance late in the season, merely perhaps to enter the great bay where the 'Assistance' spent her dreary winter." " My impression still clings to the escape out of Lan- caster Sound, or to a fatal issue off Cape Riley, and that traces, if ever discovered, must be sought from the Es- quimaux of the southern land (Cape Cockburn)." " Having thus dismissed our disappointed hopes of traces where we have sought in vain, I arrive at the dis- covery of the position of H.M.S. Investigator and the present safety of her Captain and crew." " However anxious I may be for a similar result to Captain CoUinson and party, still I am thankful that the records place him in a region free from the perils of Arctic ice, in which Captain M'Clure considers no ship could endure. He had, at the latest account, two modes of escape, one by the road he came, the other — on which I place but little reliance, on account of its difficulties — by the land journey to some of the Hudson J3ay posts ; unless indeed he met Dr. Rue, in which case competent guides would materially alter the face of his difficulties." ( fv 1854.] OPEN WATKK. 217 " But I have not boon unmindful of overv course wliicli he niiglit adopt : the Melville Island chain is com- plete and adequately stored ; at Cape J^nnny, should he take up the Peel Strait, he will find supplies, and notices where to find more ; at Port Leopold the house is not fit to shelter his people, but I think the materials for sus- taining life are not wanting." " Here, the house, the position of the provisions, fuel, and stores, offer the home provided for Sir John Frank- lin, and whei-e possibly I may yet have to prove that another winter can be endured." " Until the month of September is half expended I shall, if detained here, still cling to the hope of his join- ing us, and of the arrival of steamers adequate to our need in conveying so many persons to our country with- out the risk of one bottom." " All (/list i\, 1854. — 0[)en water in every direction. The non-appearance of H.M.S. Assistance, and the opi- nion here, that I ought to decide on the spot as to her future fate, conqx-ls me to close. If Captain Kellett should be blown out in II. M.S. North Star and reach England, I nuist refer to him for my latest intentions." Such were then my feelings on the 21st of August, and, unless pressed at that date by that screw — general opinion, I did not hitend to have quitted my post until the 20th, intending first to learn the nature of my new Instructions, and then decide. It is iuuuaterial to no- tice what were the arguments or oj)iuions advanced, as the decision at which I arrived would render me alone responsible. 1 made up my mind to proceed to the ship, takuig ■ i- ' ■ n 1 T % ':i 218 NAMKS 01" VOLUNTEKUS. YAiiyml, with 1110 a sp'tc ol' officers, of constitutions competent to withstand tlie possil)ility of f)t'ing detained another winter, Init not to be left unless it a[)peared probable that, in the ordinary course of nature, the 'Assistance' miglit drift o»it of Lancaster Sound. I had not the most remote intention of altering my design of securing the return of the entire crews to England this season, unless something in my expected orders should cliange this iletermination. At the latest moment I believed that the ice was last l)reaking uj) in Wellington Channel, and for the last few days I had been hourly expecting the report from the summit of Beechey Island, where a constant watch was maintained, that the ' Assistance ' was in sight ; but the result satisfies me that no reliable judgment can be formed, by any p(!rsons at Jkechey Island, of what goes on l)eyoud fifteen miles from it, and therefore I reject the admissibility of any opinions formed by those who did not accompany me. In justice to the officers who volunteered I will name tluMU : — Commander M'Clintoek ; ]\[r. Robert C. Scott, Assistant-Surgeon ; J\Ir. Court, Act ing-.M aster (Investi- gator) ; and jNIr. Jenkins, Mate (North Star). These gentlemen volunteered for any service which I might direct. Dr. Domville also volunteered, but I considered his duties required that he slioukl accompany the crew of the ' Resolute.' Every precaution having been adoptcsd to meet the chances of the 'North Star' being blown out, and Dr. Lyall having accompanied me for medical surveys, our party embarked in my gig at eievi'u a.m. on the i2 riDAf, I'llKSSUUI'.H. Aiiyiinl, I i' Ocean mcf that '•■ ^ n Lancaster Sonnd, as nearly us 1 could (letennine, at Cape Howden, and much in tlic same manner as tlio Channel and North Sea tides meet about Dover. I lencc it was clear, to my mind, that without a great effort of Nature to clear away the ice norllu'rlij as well as soiilhrrlij of that parnlh'/, antagonistic forces must continue to coiiijyroNH any loose floes together, and prrfccf a solid harrier in that, the narrowest, portion of Wellington Channel. Such had heen clearly Natin-e's operation during the interval which had elapsed since 1 travelled over this floe; every crack had been prewcd homo — ccnionled afri'ft/i, and so far had winter conunenccd, that the pools, resulting from late thaws, wen; covercul with ice of such thickness as to bear the weight of men and boat. In my notes 1 observe: — " Over an expanse of twenty- four miles thes(! cracks had occurred in as many intervals; but now one solid barrier, cemented in many places by young ice, and where pools occurred on the floe, so hardly frozen as to bear both men and sledge, left but little ho})c of release until too late in the sc^ason to afford any [)ro- spect of reaching Becchey Island this year. And it was still a doubtful question, if this barrier should be shivered by any competent eftort of Nature (such as that which overwhelmed poor Jk'Uot last year), if our vessels could survive the inevitable pressure to which they would be subjected. Looking to the present positions of the ' Assistance' and ' Pioneer,' on the upper portion of the channel, now completely barred to the southward, 1 found that the motions of the northern tides allowed of a [)lay of forty 1851. STATI', or illK ICi; AT SIM I'. fi'ot on till! Hssuru into whicli tlicy hud hocii warped ; but the dircf'tioii of this llssiirc wns nitlior indincd to tlio chord of the huv off whieh they were fixed, and it tcriuinat d as it approaehed the southern point. This motion sul)jeeted the vessels to nips, which had already fractured the docks cut for them, and caused them to heel occasionally, tit one time not without danger; but the most troublesome piece eventually slipped under, and the abutting floes left them, until some new distnrl)an(;e, temporarily secure ; such however was the thickness of the surrounding ice (seven feet), that any decided nip left no hope of saving the vessels : it was too stubborn to bend or break. 1 had fully discussed all these sul)jects with those qiudified to aid me, and no adverse opinion to my own was in the remotest degree offc^red ; there were none present who sought to Ijccome martyrs, nor were any inclined to make show of feelings by which they were not actuated. Indeed I feel it almost needless to remark, that whatever opinions might have been tciulered, they would never have been advanced by me to shield mo from that responsibility which belonged alone to the Commander of this Expedition. AVeighing fully the chances, and the apparent impossi- bility of any disruption of the ice, without a similar gale to that of the 18th of vVugust last y(\u- — that j)eriod also having passed ; the danger if it did recur ; the lateness of the season, with umnistakable sjinptoms of earlv winter; and the difficulties which further hesitation might entail, — I decided that I should best fulfil my pledge to their Lordships, and my duty to my country, p^ NO SdlTIIRIlN DIIII'T. ^l n .^. .'lllf/llsf, ^W ns well ns to the crews uiuii-r my comnimid (tor none volmitocrcd to rcniiiiii out), by witluiniwin^' them, aiid proccrdiiiji; to the ' North Star.' Coiitidciit I nm thiit those vessels woidd eeiis(^ to tloat before the autumn fjales conelude ; and from what I saw, and with the habit of judgiiip; on all such matters, as this narrative will evince^ nmeh more sanguinely than those associated with me, no hope of their southern drift can be entertained, — and for these reasons : — we know of no southern drift ; we have never exj)erienced northern <^ales ; we do possess facts to prove the reverse ; portions of tht; ' I^readalbanc;' reached our Winter Quarters, juid that wll/iouf n //fdf .- that disaster, bearing; date the ;21st of August, occurring three days after the gale which distiu'bcd the; ice of this Channel. By those only who have devoted their time and in- terest even to the merest tub that swims, and has been constituted a honu^, can our feelings \)v. ai)preciated. It becomes the child of our adoption, the only object in these remote regions on Avhich we lavish all om- affec- tions ! After the (excited hojjcs formed by our puny ex- pei'i(!nce at Becchey Island of the then deemed certain rescue of the craft that would carry us home in com})ara- tive luxury, how dreadfully were we disappointed ! aiul prepared as we were by months of anticipation, the pro paration for parting was not ett'ected so ra})idly as ima- gined. Indeed, when the order issued " to prepare to flit," the efforts to save ])roperty oidy then a})peared to have awakened us to the reality of the losses we were doomed to suffer. Notwithstanding the repeated sledge journeys, mainly, it is true, laden with instruments and I sr. I.. TIlOUdHTS ON I'MTTINti, other |)iil)li(' jiropcrty. imicli tliiit could not now bcciinicti liiusl n'luaiii to he siu'iillci'd. Aliiiiy |)aiiil"iil tlioii{,dits forced tlieiiiselves ii|)on my nt- tention ; Imt the duty, severe as it was, must he exe- cuted. Nevertheless, ou reflection, it was consolinj^ to feci that the s|)ecilie ^ihjects of the I'lxpedition, as far as tlic powers of our crew were concerned, had been carri(;d to the extreme bounds of rrasoii. I am awar(! that I have tiu; credit of exactinjf from those wlio are associated with i\w the full amount of labour which my own frame, in.pelled by the customary excitement of " couunand," could endure. lUit, regard- ing the ])articular service on which we are engaged, I cannot imagine it possible th:it any duty would be deemed onerous, even if it hazarded life or liud) ; and it affords me great satisfaction here to express that in every instance where selection has been made, 1 have been fully and ably supported, and most especially by my energetic Second, (-onunaiuler Richards. Our mission was not directed to the discovery of new lands, or of the North-west Passage. It was sin^jly to search for traces of our missing countrymen "on reason- able and reliable sources;" not to push, for selfish ends, on lines of coast where no reasonable hope could exist or seenuid to })romise, nor by u desire of making a sliow on ])iiper of extended discovery, to undermine the consti- tutions of uiy men, who might yet be doomed to endure another winter in this trying, desolate region. This latter subject, too, was one Avhich was ])reg'iant with evil ! So long as a fair and exciting object could be entertained, demanding even the most intense exer- WF rs^ssmmm i 00 i;VII,S (»l Diri'KNTION. /ilU/llHi, ■il W'- !'" r it if!' ID 11 ill- 1 I ... ' 1' ■\ 'I ■ ■ % is) tioii ns well fis privctioii, tlic spirits mikI liiii;li (loiinific ol' onr ciicrf^n'tio men were cnsily luiiiiitniiicd, jnul I (cfircd lM)t flic clifiMci'S of (Ijsciisc. |{iit one season liiul now passed siin|)ly in llie lahonr of exfrieatinf]^ onrselv(^s. Anotlier, ; ickencd l)y failure, or even protracted delay, W()\ild cast a damp uliieli eonld only he eoinpreliended 1)y tlios(! concerned. The rpiestion naturally resultinj; to the ollieer in commaud would he one sim])ly of jrdgment. Is the sacrifice of life to he \vei a great (|uantity of luggage, reached about twelve hoiu's later, not however without lenving behind a party of eighteen men, wiiich the boats could not carry, and who were compelled to travel to Cape; Innes by Ifuid. During my absenc(! matters had been so far expedited by Ciiptain Kellett, that about noon on the :2(;tli of Au- gust the house was left, and sealed, comjilete with every kind of sup[)ly for sixty men for one year. VVitluM, in a vol,. II. 4^ 1 r-^^ wr^2 (^ '■ I ! > •I t I )1 'J i 226 ARRIVAL OF ' PIKENIx' AND 'TALBOT.' \AugUSt, powder-case, every necessary document and information was secured. Behind the house, in the pillar erected to the memory of all who had died on this Expedition, fur- ther information was deposited. The crews of the 'Assistance,' ' Resolute,* and ' Inves- tigator' were now embarked together on board the 'North Star,' and some of our boats being yet absent, we slipped our hawsers and made sail westerly to meet them. It was about this period last year that H.M.S. Phcenix quitted for England. Some doubted her escape from the ice in Lancaster Sound, and the prevailing " pressure from without" was, tliat we had no time to spare. What my own feelings were can be readily imagined, when I found myself with officers and crews crannued together on the chance of one frail bark. Some, it is true, had been four winters in the ice; but I consider that the sledge crews of our Squadron were infinitely weaker hi constitution. Such then being our preparation to hazard the buffeting of Baffin's Bay, we had fairly taken our departure. The day was cold and gloomy, attended with snow and haze, and I had just taken possession of my cabin, when " a steamer towing a barque" was reported in the direction of Cape Riley. They proved to be the ' Phojnix' and ' Talbot,' with fur- ther supplies, and Instructions from the Admu-alty. Most fortunately they reached at this moment, as a few hours later we should probably have missed them, my determi- nation, then taken, being to make for Port Leopold and the southern shore, and hauling across from Admiralty Inlet, to vibit Port Dundas. ' r IH 1854.] PINAL INSTRUCTIONS. 007 It will now be necessary for me to allude specifically to the Instructions sent to me by the Lords Comniis- sioners of the Admiralty, No. III., Vol. I., page 9. In the second paragraph their Lordships direct my special attention to the withdrawal at once of the whole force now employed in the search of Sir J. Franklin ; they refrain from issuing any positive Instructions of how I am to act, or what steps to take, as they must de- pend on the knowledge I possessed. The third paragraph :— (L) " The crews of the ' Enter- prise' and 'Investigator,' if at Banks' Land, to be with- drawn." I read those orders as explicit, had I not taken that step (at this late period of the season impossible), to abandon the ' Resolute.' " If any trace has been dis' covered, or any further search should be deemed feas- ible, then I may consult the Seniors of Her Majesty's Ships on the question oi further search." No such case arose. Their Lordships anticipated the impossibility of abandoning the ' Resolute' this season; but that I had remedied h,j my decision, and it was only under the im- possibilit// that she was to remain. The paragraph relating to Captain CoUinson I had clearly met by all my arrangements, and I deemed it, under the information I possessed, injudicious to leave a vessel at Bcecluy Island. Their Lordships finally ac(iuaint me, that their y/vr^/ olyjed is to recall, with the least possifj/e delay, the whole of the ships or crews so employed, if it can be done ; if not possible to do so, they leave it to my judgment to do that which appears to me necessary, adding, " AH their Lordships can do is to confide in your judgment ; and V' ::i ^=■5^ ioi^n^f^mmm 228 COMPLETE THE DEPOT. [Jnt/ust, ,1 .'V ■ -t., they authorize you to take such steps, and give such orders, and to make such exchanges of officers and men, as you may deem necessary for carrying their wishes into effect." Thus it will be manifest to my readers that the most full and complete powers here assigned to me had been contemplated and carried out before their arrival, simply because my communications, from the moment of no- mination to this command, all indicated a precise duty, — first, to command and prosecute whilst sensible hope remained J next, not to drive on helter-skelter to pur- sue discovery; next, to determine when, or where, fur- ther search was to cease ; and, finally, not to hesitate in abandoning the vessels, when I considered that step was prudent. But, upon the matter of abandonment, my orders arc explicit, merely the withdrawal of crews (' Investigator' excepted), leaving the vessels in a condition to be re-oc- cupied, should any part of my Instructions warrant such an injudicious step. For myself, foreseeing difficulty as to command, if I abandoned, I brought my gig with my pendant, dating all orders from her, and considering my- self simply " on duty until the farther pleasure of my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty should be made known." By the arrival of these vessels, I was enabled to land a few more provisions, clothing, and four boats, which, with the ' Mary' yacht, left by Sir John Ross, would aid any party arriving to reach Pond's Bay. In my despatch to their Lordships I observe : — " I trust, from the contents of my previous despatches, that li ' W I 1854.] FURTHER sp:arcii unnecessary. 229 n it will be manifest to their Lordships that I could not entertain any idea of leaving behind any vessel, officer, or crew here, to prosecute a duty, I trust, complete, but on which om' united lorce and well-trained officers had pro- secuted their researches to the extreme to which human endurance could be carried ; nor could I possibly frame orders, or, in my tlien condition, select any officer to carry them into effect, without some definite Instruction as to the service for w/iic/i he was to be employed, inasnuich as the only objects to which my attention was directed were, " search for Sir John Franklin, and relief to Cap- tain Collinson, if not heard of !' " But I trust the latter has already reached a place of safety, and that relief from England, taking into consi- deration the caches laid out, will, under a very mature consideration of the whole circumstances, be better ar- ranged by a steamer direct from England, under a })roper officer, fully in time to meet any exigency, and unshackled by towing transports." In the discussion of these matters in England it reads very simple, that particular provision is to be made, that stores have been forwarded, and that officers and men arc to be left out to carry forward any service which may appear to me to be called for ; indeed confidential letters, which were but mere ti'aps on which 1 was to wreck myself, boldly urged the prosecution of lash un- considered advent Ln'cs adverse to my Instructions. All these mattcj's might have perplexed, l)ut certainly did not change, my mhid; moreover, I was unable to trace amongst any of my qualified associates any incli- nation lor Quixotism. By the first intention of my In- I % 'i'-i r, ., ,,j; ,», r ill: 1, , i '1 1-^ f ll i i'i s ; ! f t ,1 » " i \ ll '• *, 1 230 FINAL MKASURES. [^Auf/iist, stnictions, a steamer and one sailing vessel might remain behind. Tliis clearly indicated one of the tenders, and possibly the 'Talbot,' but, if taken literally, then the 'Phoenix' and 'l^albot,' reducing the conveyance of the assembled crews again to the ' North Star.' This was clearly injudicious, and not to be entertained. The three vessels were not adequate to properly accommodate and provide water for the crews. The forwarding of stores, excepting for deposit at Bcechey Island, it has already been observed, could not relievo any parties detained to the westward of that po- sition, except by a steamer advancing this autiuim, if the ice should open, or by a competent slcdc/e force, next spring. If I left a small crew behind, no such competent force would be available. Again, as to the selection of officers. Those who had been fully tested, and were known to be capable of carrying out my views in their true intent and in conformity with my confidential Instructions, nnist be sought amongst the volunteers of my own particular set. Here again I nuist be guided by the opinions of medical men; and, as I have mentioned in my de- s})atchcs, the selection would have fallen on Commander M'CIintock. He, by conference in March, had been made fully acquauited with all that was necessary ; ho was the oldest practical Arctic officer ; and I had full con- fidence that his appointment would be most satisfactory, not only to those around me, but also to their Lordships. Such then being the condition in which we were found by the ' PluLMiix,' I have not, even in my public despatches, in the remotest manner alluded to matters : '■ .^^b; ..»-_ I i^ — ^^mmmmmsm^, mmmmmmmmmmmm ]<■ \-t IV% ,'fi m r; ^' '^ in I V IN MKMOKV^ iri.rv.r' hki.i.ut ' ir i.r iiinui.N) H.vwv ■ t NOflLV AIDINt. IM S(.Att< H OF ^| SIR JOHN FRA lA IHt WLU.INr.IJII CHANNEL OHTHtt»UFAMLU<^ll8&3. i^"J y IH.ft tABLiT TORECOHOIHCSABEVIHT \f\ ■MK'^ EfltcTtDfiYHISfftlEnOJ BUfinoiW.^ AD 1854- . iiii IIIIIUIIIIIIII iiiiiiiin|iiiiiiiiiiii|| i mm "","'!J Sr 1 ; \ II PI! r 1' iipj!! ; Ul f''''''? U F''^'""'- w |,,l;; ', " ': '. lb f H '•[ ■ O ': ''':■ ■ o W' ' ■ ' ' Q. »' :■ y !'''!'■ 'i'-. '^ .\'ifi7t f'ni nu'lt U a ft ol TAHLET TO M. HKLLOT. 231 1854.] which seemed to have made more impression on the minds of those around than they did on me. This was the report of Captain Inglefield and his lee- master on the state of the ice in Baffin's Bay and mouth of Lancaster Sound, or, in plain term?, the doubt of the vessels passing out of Lancaster "^'ound and clearing the ice of Baffin's Bay without encountering very heavy difficulties; indeed, it appeared to be mere matter of chance, from the various dangers into which the ' Pho3- nix' and 'Talbot' had been driven (by Captain Inglc- field's public letter), that they had been rescued from disasters from Avhich we could not have relieved them, and that their mission to us would, in such ease, have proved entirely abortive. It required no argument with me to determine what my duty was ; unfortunately time was not available to carry out what the service prescribed. I had but one steamer, and that vessel must accompany and aid the sailing vessels until clear of the ice of Baffin's Bay, other- wise I should have sent an officer and crew into the ' Talbot' to take home direct the crew of the ' Investi- gator ;' as in the event of accident to them, I had heard enough from those around me to feel that such a topic would not fail to be worked with powerful effect to my annoyance. The landing of boats and further additions to the depot entailing some delay, the vessels were made fast to the floe ; I therefore took advantage of this detention to affix to our cenotaph a marble; tablet to the memory of Monsieur Bellot, brought out by the ' Phccnix.' This tablet had been executed for Mr. Barrow, of the Admi- in ^^ 1 1 I V Hi! .::;* '; M' I il ■ } J !;l' ■i!i 1 l^'V ' V (' '(i Si 232 (iL'lT HKKCIIKY ISLAND. [^Allf/ttsf, ralty, in token of his estooni for tliis gallant volunteer, and was Hnisiuitl barely in time to go out by the ' Plio;- nix ;' Ills wish was to have it placed as near the spot of the fatal disaster as convenient; but I trust that the posi- tion, in the company of our other deceased members of the K.\])e(lition, may not b.i deemed ina})propriatc. Hav- ing assend)led the officers hi conunand, and drawn up the Marines of the ' PhoMiix" in front of the pillar, the customary compliment of three volleys, due to an officer of his rank, was paid at the moment of completion. I will conclude this piece of service by the extract from my public despatch. " These matters arranged, fresh notices added to those in the Depot Monse (well secured in a powder case), fif- teen tons of coal placed ready at the house (brought from Cape Hiley, where it had been landed with })rovisions from ' Ureadalbane'), one; excellent patent cooking-range, adapted for seventy or one hundred men, in complete order under a temporary kitchen, a good stove within, and indeed every comfort which I could expect for my- self had I wintered at this island, all of which had occu- l)ied the constant attention of Captain Kellett and myself for the last three months, I directed Captain Inglefield to receive Captain Kellett and myself, with my gig-crcw and retinue, on board 11. M.S. Phcenix; and portions of the crews of the other vessels of my Squadron having been distributed on board the ' North Star' and ' Talbot,' wc again cast off from the floe, shaping a course for Port Leopold." At that position [ inteuded, if possible, to land, mak(^ good the deficiencies, and leave a boat and records ; but . ir> 1854.] PORT LEOPOLD HARIIKI) IJY KM',. 283 ill tills T was (lisnppoiiitcd, the floo Imrring a uonrcr ap- jii'oucli than riftocii or twenty miles from the nearest part of the island. This foreibly hroiight to my mind the utter fallacy of nny opinions formed on ic(! matters, and more especially as to tlu! distance of open water, so constantly asserted to be \rievved from elevated positions. Some had ven- tured to sec up Harrow Strait, and that open water ex- tended from Heechey Island to the southern coast. But leaving opinion to its fate, what was the fad f Until we reached one hour's run with vessels in tow, the floe-edge was not discovered from the crow's-nest, — and how distant ? (h'liahili/ noljioc wiles ! That ice would not permit Barrow Strait to be relieved until it drifted away. Are wc entitled, after such a glaring fact before us, to attach any credit to imagination, or that Harrow's Strait, at the time we left, exhibited any ground for liopi; that the ice would rush out and deliver to us the vessels on which our thoughts were so anxiously bent ? Giving uj) all further idea here, and impressed with the probability of another severe and early winter, my thoughts h-d nic to seek Port Dimdas ; not indeed to risk the remains of our Squadron, but to communicate by boat with the natives, and ascertain, if possible, whether they had ever seen the 'Erebus' or 'Terror' sail up or down. Further, I had been given to understand that some one on board the 'Pha^nix' had recognized the natives as belonging to the Pond's liay tribe, and, under my original interest in the story raised by them in 1849, 1 was most anxious to probe this matter more de: piv ; and as they had found a purchaser for one of the records I 1 'I \4. ill' 1 ill I* K ■; i ' (/ li •V. '4 I i :\ I ,i V i ■'( ■ > 234 IIAUIIKI) I'HOM roilT DIJNDA8. \Aligi(xl, stolen fioiii Cape Wiirrcndcu', it occurred to nie tlifit if tliey possessed other papers, I might, hy the expendi- ture of some trivial stores, particuhirly of tind)er, obtain all that they |)()ssesHe(l, and amongst them possihiy find some cine to the fate of onr missing conrtrymen. Most certainly 1 was pr(;pared to go fnrther, and, shonid their information lead to any inference of nnfair mcasnres on the southern coast, adopt, perhaps, very strong measures to completely carry out my duty. On entering (broker Iky, all these matters received a serious check by th(! ic(! having closed in upon the laiul; aiul taking into consideration the reports of the ice be- setting th{! mouth of Lancaster Sound, I determined to seek the only outlet whicli tiic experience of former Arctic navigators pointed out as likely to be available. Each had experienced ii strong current setting easterly along the southern side of the Strait, and the ' Enter- ])rise' had, during an adverse gale blowing up the Strait, l)een drifted forty miles to windward in twenty-four hours. This fact clearly indicated to my mind the cause of the ice now pressing on th(i northern coast. It was simply the eddy of that great current, caused, in ail pro- bability, by ice al)utting about Cape Warrender and ex- tending thence into Riffin's Bay. I inuuediately decided on following up the tail of this ic(! and roundhig it. In this decision the Ice-master and others did not coincide with me, it is true ; but they had not studied these matters, and had no reasons to give. As we reached the southern edge, I clearly saw indica- tions of an opening; and the Ice-master, at length \va- vanig, hailed from the crow's-nest, "If you intend. Sir, sV. I :tf I • ill 1.^51..] VISIT NAVV UOAIll) INI.l'T. i:i'i to tak(! tlu! ice, wo may iis well try it nt once." Sncli was my decision : 1 t'dt certain of sncccss ; 1 cvisn oH'crcd ti nominal bet that hd'orc nifj;lit wc should hv. dear of i('»!. So it |)rovre fortunate enough to thread tl middle ict; without dilficulty, even with our consorts in tow; which fact clearly proves, to my mind, that the visit to Hi-echey Island can be madc^ safely, and num; expeditiously, by adopting ()\ir lumieward track, in the latter part of August, than by the doubtful, dangerous, and trouble- some mode of proceculing by Melville Ray. No vi'ssel, to my knowledge, has yet faihul to reach {'iUgland from liancaster Souiul in Septend)er, but wc know tiie very doubtful success attending the course by Melville l^ay. i; 238 REVISIT LIEVELY. [September, .r \U \m\ 'if\\ i^ . H II '! n- As wc neared Greenland the increasing lirceze ren- dered it necessary to cast off the tow-hnes and proceed indepinidently. Tlie ' Phceiiix' reached Lievely on the Cth of September, about four a.m., where we were wol- coined by the authorities with the customary attentions so repeatedly noticed by the several otficers commanding these Expeditions. As the provisions withdrawn from Navy Board Inlet were likely to prove a nuisance on any rise of tempera- ture, and would be objected to by our seamen, and learn- ing from the Inspector that many Greenland families at some of the settlements had perished last season from hunger, I directed a portion to be landed for the use of these distressed people, who would deem the provision we should condemn as unfit for consumption a perfect luxury. On our being rejoined by the ' Talbot,' and shipping her coal, we quitted Lievely, not however without incur- ring further dangers, which were fortunately avoided by the knowledge we had obtained from our former survey of this port. The dangers, difficulties, and other dis- agreeables attending these visits, determined me not to incur further responsibility or delay by touching at any other ports of Greenland. I therefore directed the sail- ing vessels, in the event of parting company, to repair to England and njport themselves, according to the practice of the service, on arrival. The equinoctial gales determined me to seek Cork, in order to replenish coal, and to re[)air with the utmost ex- pedition to the Admiralty. On the morning of the 28th of September we sighted the port. Here another failure .( c 1854.] ARRIVE AT CORK. 239 of the engines tantalized us for a short [)criod ; but I had just determined on proceeding in my gig, when they resumed their work ; and about nine a.m. I had the satis- faction of paying my respects to Rear-Admiral Sir W. F. Carroll, the Commander-in-Chief, and shortly after noon, accompanied by Captain Kellett and M'Chu'e, proceeded by rail for London. I should not have deemed it of sufficient importance to myself, as regards my professional character at the Admiralty, and more particularly in the opinion of those w^ho selected me for command, and are satisfied that I did not err in the true intent of my obligation in the completion of its duties, — but it is due to the unprofes- sional part of the public, to notice what I perhaps was too careless of maKing any display of, at the subsequent formal investigation, as to the obedience to my Instruc- tions from my Lords Connnissioners of the Admiralty, in the withdrawal of my crews. It has been imagined by unprofessional readers that I was, in some degree, hampered by some implied order to be guided by those serving under me, and that any difference of ophiion was to serve for damage to me, or qi(a^i-o\'A\tation of those who might by chance prove to have made a better guess on probabilities. But no man hi his senses, or who knew my profes- sional course over an independent career of twenty-four years, and readily assuming the responsibility of far greater powers, would believe in such absurdity, or that I would have retained command under such degradation. Nor am I entering now upon any defence, for the judi- cious termination of my command has never been called IS! I lit 'J 11 ( •; '•■ :<,::! 1 1' K f\ ir . r i! 240 CARRYIN(i OUT INSTRUCTIONS. \S('pU>mbci; ill question ; I mean therefore simply to observe on the early, as well as final resolve, to withdraw the crews,— to use a recorded expression,—" and when you judged you thought all had been done which could be done for the attainment of these objects, you were not to linger out, but to bring your crews home ;" and further, " when you judged you could do no more, would have the cou- rage to act on your judgment, and to return home." Simply, then, I stood with a recorded guarantee before the country, that the issue of the search was vested in me, and that with ine it was to terminate. Assuredly I was not to linger out, and thus, by accumulating ex- pense, to render it interminable ; nor yet by oscillating conduct as regarded the vessels, for that matter was fully understood before sailing, or fm-ther to jeopardize the crews when T formed an opinion they should be with- drawn, merely to serve the feelings of any men, required to desert these [)urchased masses of timber, when I thought such a step desirable, for really the pendant flew iiiereli/ to enmre martial law, — they were not por- tions of our Navy beyond this emblem, and the discipline which it entailed. i I I i 241 CHAPTER VIII. Import of Instructions.— Furtlier Searcli impossible.— Leaving the ' Talbot.' — Dr, Rae's Information. — Finds undeniable Traces. — Dissection of Report.— State of tlie Bodies.— The Quantity of Relics. — List of Articles found. — Opinion on the Information. — Impressions of 1850-1832.— Official Letter.— Captain CoUinson's Discoveries. —Opinion on the North-west Passage.— Rewards due for Discovery. I COME therefore simply to the Instructions. What were they founded on ? The report of a Committee on the proceedings of my predecessor, and in that document the following occurs (paragraph 16) :— "If, on the other hand, Wellington Strait is found open and navigable on the arrival of the Expedition, in the summer of 1852, we think one of the sailing ships, with a steamer, might proceed at once to take advantage of this opportunity, if the officer commanding should judge such a measure safe and prudent, and be thus placed in winter quarters in a more favourable position for commoniing the land search in the spring of 1853, but with the most strict injunctions not to advance to such a distance as to en- danger their return to the depot, or their communication with it fhat year ; and it should be enjoined with equal strictness, that, in the event of any irreparable disaster to VOh. u. '^ It 1;; .1 \ pi^svav^ If I i I-,. t ^K I ti^' •♦i.., mm iP It hi: r It Pt i;' 242 IMl'OKT OF INSTRUCTIONS. the ships so proceeding, or if they nhnnld he fno finnli/ fixed in the ice to be extricated durinu the summer of 1853, they are to be aljandoiied, and the cretvs broiiyht down to the depot!' With this opinion of the Committee, tlieir Lordslni)s determine on the Expedition, which I was appointed to command. About eighty days intervened for explana- tion, and my Instructions contain the consoUdation thereof. {Vide V'l. I. p. 1 et seq.) Paragraph 2 does not indicate any reference to se- condary opinion, but distinctly defines the confidence entrusted to me. xit paragraph 4 the extract of the report of the Com- mittee is alluded to: — "The plan of future operations there proposed is to be considered as the basis of your operations." At paragraphs 10 and 11 it is distinctly intimated that my Instructions to the officer despatched to Beechey Island are to be stringent — to be in accordance with my obliyations, referred to in paragraph 2, and even to admit of his return to England in 1852 ! At paragraph 15 the intention conveyed by their Lordships is not, that, in case of my absence, the officer who succeeds may proceed as he pleases ; but, in con- formity with my obligations, he shall carry out faith- fully the mission confided to me until I resume the command. The 20th and final paragra})h distinctly commands the return, on the question of provision, iu the summer of 1854. The orders of 185-i do not varv in any manner from !1 . - ' I ' INSTRUCTIONS OF 1853-.') !•. 243 the preceding; but should tlic question oi further search be entertained, certain means of sustenance are for- warded. At paragrapli 2 of tlicsc second Instructions, it is clearly intimated that having done all that could be done in the matter of search, the Expedition was to be aban- doned. And if such likewise should be my opinion, after mature consideration with the Senior Officers under my command, I was to abandon. This simply refers to my opinion formed, after consul- tation with all the officers in whom I placed confidence, as to further search. But that decisive opinion had been given before I asked for it. But it is not for me to state on whom I confided, or what were the opinions. It is universally conceded that " all had been done that could be done." As the Com- mander of that Expedition, I was in communication with all : I knew their secret feelings, and on those feelings I acted, on my own responsibility, without insulting any one for obtrusive advice. I did not leave any one to suffer for my decision; but boldly, and as I had the temerity to believe, generously, putting my neck into the halter, issued my orders in my proper province, as it was expected I would do by those who confided in my courage to face any difficulty which looked me in face. Had I been weak enough to yield, and disaster had en- sued, where would my character now be ? It requires no prophet to conclude how I should have been dealt with. At paragraph 3 full confidence is renewed, and to that confidence I have responded by the determined act which, K 2 ,i i i i hi'! ■'•''; i'lr I II INI I 1 V! '11 f 11 '2li I'l irriiKK si;ai<(Ui imi'ossiui.i;. I trust, has met with the i^jprovul of every man of cou- rage or of coiumou sense, — and of wliicli I bear wn'f/e?i evidence from coinpelciil (lul/iorili/, as well as from the liighest ornaments of both professions, hi hmgnage too strong to allow of inscu'tion here. But as regards any volunteer to remain out, that was my province to decide. I could not so far forget my duty, as the chief, to allow any one to creep between me and danger. If the 'Resolute' and tender remained, it must be clear to professional minds that the chief nuist also re- mahi at Hecchey Island until the next season. All this I foresaw in October, 1853, and the confusion which would involve any hesitation on my part. And what is the result of my judgment ? The ' Re- solute' is as safe where she is, as if she had been moored for ever at IVIelville Island. Would any one dream of her extrication, if she had, in obedience to my original order, been abandoned there ? It is almost unnecessary to revert to my final Instruc- tions, as they reached after I had quitted and had taken my measures; but they incontestably prove Ihe projmclj/ of mif decision, and that all my grounds for action were well founded. As to further nearch, that never coidd be contcm})lated by any reasonable individual w^ho had the interest of his coimtry at heart, or who was entrusted with plenary powers, if he thought there was any reason- able direction in which they could be exercised. As regards the ' Resolute,' I knew enough to enable me to decide, and events have proved my decision judi- cious. I knew tlw; difficulties of 1850 to 1S53. I had DIFIK ri,TIKS. 245 ccrtiiin proof that, iit'tt-r the ice broke ii}), no man or boat could travel over sncli an oxpansc; of loose |)a('k as intervened between the 'Resohite' and the land, and therefore, that she nuist remain to the chances of release in Septend)er, or later; — with what probability of success, the ice which 1)ound Leopold Island on the 27th of Au- gust wi) best satisfy Arctic navigators, especially when they know that the Jini winter warning had beciii de- monstrated in Wellington Channel, and that to the ima- ginations of some, who perhaps talk most of these mat- ters, it was endeavoured to excite; my apprehension that we should not clear Lancaster Sound or BatHu's Hay that season. Another yet more important (piestiou has not bei-n raised, and for this simple reason, — I recpiired no excuse for obedience to the known iaient of my Listructious. I did not call for the evidence of the hif/hcsl anf/ioritics to raise a doubt before a military tribunal as to theii- powers, and tlu; Investigation was juerely what J was instructed to consider as " com[)liance with the custom of the Service." But with the public, which may be misled by the as- sumption that one of the vessels could have been left as a depot at Bcechey Island, T will venture to remark, — that officers who have been long accustomed to conmiand in- dej)endcntly, know full well all the difficulties they must be prepared to encounter, and they too often discover that men who volunteer lie. J:ron^ die iiuitilated state of the bodies, and the pcntent^', of iW: kettles, a fearful resort is intimated. In this 1 cannot rationally coincide. If such had bcLii the deliberate act of .slarcin// dicii, no vestiges would have been found in ihc kettles. As to fuel to cook, we have no evidence ; but the boat was there. And it mav be some consolation Ik tin; friends di olii.eers, until we ! ' \ \\ 1 ^w If I P! THE QUANTITY 01' RELICS. 'h #! i; . 1 •.Hi /Iv^iiJl ' hear from the present searching party, to know that by this account he was not one of the victims. Can all this refer to one hundred miles of coast-line, etc, ? No. 4 makes the island near to l/ic mauildiid. No. 7. A careful consideration of this portion satisfies mc that the informants possessed a very intimate know- ledge of every matter connected with this one party. They are too circumstantial as to the seasons, tides, and effects, to have learned their story from nar ration. No ! they were intimately conversant, and connected, with the fatal termination of the carcjer of the entire crews, which were wrecked not fur from the spot where he then stood ; and it is reasonafdc to sui)pos(! that they wished him to seek in a contrary direction to where the cata- strophe occurred for a previously fleeced renniant which could tell no talcs ! No. 8. " There must have been a numljer of watches, compasses, telescopes, //i/ns, i;tc." Now we derive from the informants that ontj/ forty, one being an officer, who did not drag, were seen ; that these forty are found dead in the Great Fish llivei- (clearly they were tracked thither), and that one telescope and one (jun were noticed. But our nerves are not a little disturbed at this one party havhig in their possession all the valuaMes of the two creics ! Now taking into consideration my own experience, the companion of my men for nearly forty years, and coupled with the knowledge of my late Arctic service, I confidently ask. Could such a number of watches, guns, or teh'scopes remahi perfect nuich beyond one season? and wo\dd they be found amongst any forty men, one ' mmm Ml LIST OK ARTICLES I'OUND. 253 only being declared an office;!-? But look to the list annexed. No less than eleven watches are traced, and parts of surgical instruments. No. 0. Now the informants declare that they had never seen tlu; white men, nor had they been at the })lace where the bodies were found. And 10, that they only saw the party when travelling ! fJat of Arl'icleH purchased from the Esqiiimaux, said to Jiave 1)een found at the place where the parly of men died of famine in spring 1850, vi:. : — I silver table fork Crest No. 1. 4 „ „ do „ 2. 1 „ table spoon „ 3. 1 „ „ do. Motto, " Spero Mell.ora." . . „ 4. 1 „ dessert do „ t. 1 „ table fork ,, 5. 3 „ „ do „ 5. I ,, dessert do ,, ,'5. 1 „ table spoon ,, 5. I ,, tea ,, ,, a, 1 „ table fork, with initials II. D. S. G. 1 „ „ do. „ V.M.I). 1 „ » do. „ G.A.M. 1 „ „ do. ,, J. S.I'. 1 ,, dessertspoon ,, J.S. P. 1 „ „ do. „ G.G. 1 „ table spoon ,, [. T. 1 „ lea do. „ A. M'l). I „ table Cork „ I.T. 1 small silver plate, enii'raved "Sir.loliii IVaiikliii, K.C.II.'" A star or order, with motto, " Nee aspern terreiil," on owe. side, and on the reverse denoting "AVill King." 2 pieces, gold wateli-eases. 5 ])i(:ees, silver wateli-cases, one oi' these with initials wliieh eainiot be clearly deeiplurcd. 1 piece of a wa'.eli marked ", lames Ueid." il 'I i 9< • !i M I^;t I or. m , I 7v' ^1 '■'i^i! 1 1 .1 ■ i til 1 !i i ! ! 54 Ol'TXTON ON Till' INFORMATION. I case, pocket cliroiioinclor ^il\rr-;:ilt., aiitl dial. 1 suiuU silvia- jKUcii-ca.-ii'. 1 piece, silver tiilx': |)art of a catlieler. I hclicvc. (.1. I!.) I piece, some optical inslnmi'iit 1 old <>'()ld cap-hand. 1 s\ivj^e()u's scal])el. Several sovereigns (two), siiil'iiins d'oiii'), and liall'-cniw ns itwdV 2 pieces (about seven inches), jiold uateli-eliain 2 leaves of the Student's ^laniial 1 surireon'ii knife. 2 common k..ives. I woman's kuife, or coliWer's. I ])()cket compass box. 1 ivory handle of table-knife, marked ''Hiekev.' 1 small narrow tin ease, marked " F'lw Kr.' I'r) 1 do. do. no to)), marked "' W. M." Smidry otiier articles of little eonse(|uence. 1 piec(! of Haimel under-vest, marked F. D. V. 181.5. 1 albata plate table-spoon. I have, etc. (Signed) .loiiN R.\i:, C.F. Commanding Arctic Expeditiou, Repulse Bay, July, ISf) 4. No man can for an instant imagine that tlic statenionts so very distinctly given by Dr. Rac arc other than the resnlt of his opinion, founth'd on his most anxions and untiring efforts to arrive at the truth. But I can clearly imagine that his anxiety to render the questions of his interpreter pertinent has led him to aft'ord the wily Es- quimaux a view of his purpose; and they, fearing punish- ment, have endeavoured to misdirect him from the true position where the disaster occurred. Where the collective treasiu'c of those two vessels was found, there these same Esquimaux had been. But wluTe the forty bodies may be discovered is, I fear, remote from the proper phirc for search; tiie fear of ' 1 I'l: n I HI : TMPUESSIONS OF 1850-52. 255 detection may possil)ly thwart our eiuloavoiirs, but some written evidence, 1 trust, may yet clear u}) tlie mystery. Something more than l)are opinion will be required for so far interfering with the convictions of Dr. Rae. But I have for (piite as long a scries of years been con- versant with great detail of preparation for every kind of service. I know the difriculties of ice-travel, and 1 am now more conversant with the disposition and ability of men, under our latest improvements, to drag //-sch'ss weifjhts. T know i\\c probable difficidtics of ice disasters; and when \ clearly perceive method, cool calculation, and \\\Q preservation of such raluafjlcs, I am impressed with the conviction that adecpiate provision for very extended travel was provided, and that before they became re- duced every ounce of lumber would have been cast away. Nor in such an estimate, believing in the powers of the men engaged, am I prepared to concede that the scene of disaster can be more distant than two hundred miles from the position where the bodies are said to ])e. With this distance, or three degrees of latitude (70° to 78^) in the compasses, they will be found within tliat radius, to my conviction within Prince Regent's inlet, and such an opinion was hazarded l)efore I left this country. But with the raduis of three degrees, 72° to 75°, equidistant from Cape Riley — from the spot where the bodies are said to be — and Igloolik, wliere I imagine one division has gone, will intersect the spot where I have imagined the disaster occurred. In a letter of the 27th of October and another of th(; 9th of November, I suggested the following : — " 1. That Sir J. Franklin met with disaster to the east- >■■! i ' % ■s'\ i I ! w «■ mm \ly h li' i :l f !5() KXTKACT I'KOM OFFICIAL LF.TTKU. ward of the meridian of Beechey Island, and that the traces found at Cape Kiley were those of one division of the distressed crews. " 2. That I never doubted the truth of tlic reports of the Esquimaux of Pond's Bay, in 1S49, tliat two ships were seen on the eastern side of Prince Regent's Inlet, and that those two vessels were the ' Erebus' and ' Ter- ror.' At that period I myself examined the master of the vessel which brought the report. " That the tribes which then visited Pond's Bay find their way by inland navigation through Cockbm'n Island wc now have almost indisputable evidence, by the rob- bery of the depot at Navy Board Inlet ; and their cross- ing to Port Dundas, on the north side of Lancaster Strait, is particularly suspicious. "If the 'Erebus' and 'Terror' were blown out of Beechey Island Bay (as the only mode of clearing the ice), they might have got wilhin the current, and been driven down Prince Regent's Inlet, and on the eastern side. " And being wrecked well down this inlet, they would divide into three parties, one for Beechey Island, one for Pond's Bay, and the last, headed probably by Sir J. Franklin, for the Hudson's Bay posts. I reserve the small nund)er for Sir John, because his experience would teach him the impossibility of subsisting any large num- ber of men, even if they reached a post safely. " The sails cut up, leaving the bolt-ropes at Cape Riley, are, to my mind, havhig been twice wrecked, undeniable l)roofs of the substitution of canvas for shoes ; and the I'ake as clearly indicates its om[)k)ymeut in collecting CAPTAIN COLLINSON'.S MOVEMENTS. 257 edible seftwccd (dulse), which abounds there, and which I freely used at Port Refuge in August, 185:3. These ideas are long .sincn; recorded. " Of the eastern party, I firmly believe that some may have reached Igloolik, where Sir Edward Parry wni- tered, and have attempted to r(!ach Pond's Bay by the spring following. " But here a difficulty meets me, which is somewhat suspicious. The Pond's Bay tribe do not seem to have conununicated with our whalers from the date of that eventful period, 1849; and yet evidence of a late visit was proved by my visit in September last, when I found remains of rcccuf hlnhhcr ! " In one of the old huts I found a skull, a European knife and tinned spoon, enveloped in seal- and bird-skin dresses ; and it is rather a strange coincidence that the fitting of the knife to Esquimaux use is similar to one brought home by Dr. Rae. " It is still my firm conviction that the most reliable search would be from Captain Penny's position in Nor- thumberland Inlet (Kcmcsok) ; from whence a commu- nication might be effected with the several tribes, and more satisfactory evidence discovered." Such was my communication : nor was this merely the result of Dr. Rae's report, as this narrative, unaltered from its original tenour, will evince. Had the Squadron been released in 1853, four distinct positions would have been occupied between Navy Board Inlet and Kemesok, and the eastein questions satisfactorily determined. As regards the last vessels of the searching Exjjcdi- tions, Ciiptain (\)]linson's despatches indicate that he VOL. IJ. s ,1 SlJ u ' i*- j*. '} I if! ' m w w %\ \\r,i 258 OPINION ON NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. pursued the same course as Captain M'Clurc, tlirounjli Prince of Wales' Strait, and that one of his officers landed on Melville Island, bchig thns the second, by sledge travel, in effecting the discovery of an ice-covered sea, preventing the complete navigation to where Parry had already proved it to be navigable. He had prosecuted successfully his researches, until he also crossed those of Dr. Rae, and at length, having ex- tricated the 'Plover' and his own ship, reached Hong- kong and England, without leaving a living soul behind to distract the feelings of our countrymen. On the question of the " North-west Passage," which was totally excluded by all the Instructions to those en- gaged on this Arctic search, I may be permitted, as one totally unconnected with those contending for the credit of its execution, to express my opinion. The original Act was to reward any persons who by sailui(/ from sea to sea proved America to be an island ; and at the period the reward was offered, it was co]isi- dered (I speak subject to correction), by the wordhig of applications to the Treasury, with the assertion, " that great benefit would arise to commerce!' Now, when Sir Edward Parry made good his claim, it was for the com- pletion of n j)orlion between the meridians undiscovered. The Act then, — by the powers vested, I believe, in the Board of Longitude, — divided the undiscovered spaces into divisional rewards. But inasmuch as Sir John Franklin, Sir John Richardson, Dease and Simpson did not Hail throuyh, the rewards to which they were most jtisth/ ontitlcd were denied. But to my mind, and to .i,!i KFAVARDS DUE FOK DISfOVEKY 259 tliose who arc docmcd to possess tin; chmrcst views iti such matters, it has been considered that the solution of the question (or rvnWy that y\nieriea is s(;n-washed on its Arctic bounds) wouhl liavc been incontestably proved had any jjcrson passed down Peel's Strait m open /n,/er and arrived at the positions visited either by Captain IJack in former times, or by Dr. Rac on his late jouniey. It has therefore been assumed by the friends of Sir John Franklin, that his ship did so pass down Peel's Strait, and was wrecked in a position which would en- title him, if living, to contest this matter. And my own opinion goes to favour those who have, by much more hazardous voyages than those made by Parry or his suc- cessors, determined the commercial interests which may, in consequence of their discoveries, and probably will, be pursued at some future jjcriod along that sea-iomhed shore. That a reward should be given for the fortunate solii- tion, I am prepared to support ; but that reward should be meted with justice— to the Commander of that Exi)c- dition. Captain Collinson. For if we deal with the ques- tion on its naval rights, Captain M'Clure loses his initial claim at the moment he sent his Lieutenant to precede him to England, or when he abandoned his vessel. It has been asked liy numerous friends what solution I would give to the vessels reported to be seen off New- foundland in the winter of 1 So 1-52. I can only treat the question with reference to the ' Erebus' and ' Terror.' Settuig aside, therefore, my recorded conviction that those vessels were crushed within Lancaster Sound, 1 will ol)serve that the ' Erebus' and 'Terror,' if frozen in, '^^ L: l\ ill 1 1 I M ■2C)0 VI',SSK1,S SEKN ON W.V. IN 185i?. I' . 1 f would not be hampered by icebergs, innsrmich as tliey arc not seen witliiM Lancaster Sound, altliough tlioy may be fonnd at its moutli ; — that vessels frozen in, and re- maining so at the commencement of spring, would be surroimded by the floe or tabular field-ice ; — and that its line of floatation, if it broke away and passed to the southward, would not support vessels more than eighteen inches above the sea-level. But the temperature of the sea between the mouth of Lancaster Sound and the Gi'eat Iknk of Newfoundland being always nuicli above the freezing-point, and varying between 50" and 00° southerly of Cape Farewell, it is next to impossible in such a drift, over seventeen hun- dred miles as the crow flies, that any ice in which those vessels might be sealed hi 74° N. could by any reasoning withstand the thaws, as well as sea washiiig, over such an interval. But if wc assume the vessels to have been driven out of the Sound and frozen in the pack, then, if circum- stances for the winter froze them in contact with a berg, undoubtedly the berg would have discarded them early in the spring, and permitted them to float freely; or if attached, most undoubtedly w^ould, by the customary thaw, have placed them so frequently under water at the periodical rolling as the under surface thaw^ed, as to leave no traces of vessels after they had once been ex- })osed to such an innnersion. .•<.! f- MATTKRS IN Al'l'KNUIX, 261 The Orders of the priiicipjil Kxijeditions arc annexed, in the Appendix, that tlie nature of the service re>^} >> ^. '/ Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0 (716) 872-4503 ^V^ '^:^^ ^ •^^ <;^ Mo i ^ 'jjn^i^s^^smfmtfm i' ■ t r-i I ii ill " 111 • i ■4' APPENDIX. ■ SlK, A. ORDEll . So. IV.* .tdmiraltif, Fchruanj 15/A, 1853. [ am coniiiiaiuled by my Tionls Coiniiiissioiicrs of tlie Admiralty to sijiiiify tlicir (lin-ftioii to you to use your own discretion as to (^iiittiiig U)iir present (|iiarters after tlie receipt of tills, and endeavoiirinfj: to secure liie 'Plover' for the winter in tirantley llariour; but siio\dd you deem it ])nulent tc^ remain wliere you are fi)r ti." ensuing winter, my Lords desire you will use your utmost eudeavo irs, as soon as tlie sea- son will permit in Is,",)., to reach the winter cpiarters of the ' Rattle- snake' in Cirantley Harbour, so as to ell'ect a juiu'tion with that ship in \\\\\k: to make ti«e necessary exchanges between the two crews, and receive the needful supplies before the ' Itattlesnake' shall have been eompeUed to (piit 15ehring Strait, in the autumn of IS.Vt, on her return to this country. 2. Tn the event of yotu" remaining this winter in Aloorc Harbour, yon are to employ yourself in depositing all the supplies you can spare for the relief of any party that might reach that neighbourhood from Captain (\)llinson's or Coininauder .M'( 'lure's ship. You will also ex- tend your parties right and left along the sliore, and in sueli direction as may be advisable, as far as may be prudent, in order to (U'posit no- tleis of your proceedings and intentions, and of the store of supplies left at ^loore Harbour. \\. iU'fore ([uitting ^loore Harbour you will erect such house or place of shelter for any arri\ing party as your means will permit; and even if you should Ije unabh- to move the ' i'lover' round li) (irantley Harbour, you and your people are, at all events, to iiiaki' good your retreat to ihe (|uarters to be pro\ided in tliat haihour by ('onimander Trollopc. * For lilt t)iders Nos. I., II., and 111., see Vol. 1. p. 1 et mi. 1^' rmmf^m iii' ^1! V- ■ii! :'4 li ■ I nil •204 APPENDIX. 4. For ilircrtioits as to llic course to bo adopted in depositing no- tices of your intentions, and of tiu; supplies left iu Moore Uarliour, their Lonlsliips refer you to their instructions to Sir Edward Helcher, and to the further remarks on that subject continued in Sir Edward Belcher's letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty, of the 2yth May lust, from Whaletish Islands. I am, Sir, Your most obedient servant, Comtnander Maouire, \V. A. B. Hamilton. II.M. DiHcovery Ship Flover, Moore llnrbour. Point Barrow, or to any Officers of Ilia ' Hover,' at Capn Lisburiw. No. V. By the Commissioners for Executiny the Office of Lord llitjh Jdmirnl of (he United Kingdom, of Great Britain and '< . id, etc. Whereas it is necessary to replenish Her Majesty ., sloop Plover, now in position at J'oint BaiTow, Behriiig Strait, with stores and pro- visions, as well for the future supply of that vessel as for the purpose of nuH'tiufi- the wants of the crews of tiie' Enterprise' and 'Investi- gator,' should those shi])s be driven back upon HehrinLf Strait, or shoiUd circumstances have rendered it imperatively uecessaiy for the crews to abandon them, a course stated by Conuuauder M'Clure (in a letter, dated 20th July, 1850, to Captain Kellet) "he might be com- pelled to adojjt after the winter of 18.52, l)y proceeding in the spring of 1S53 to quit his vessel with sledges and boats, ami make the best of his way to l\)n(ls' Jiay, Leopold Harbour, the Mackenzie lliver, or for whalers, according to eircumstanees." With the view, therefore, of conveying assistance to the ships at Beliring Strait, we '.iav(' appropriated the' Rattlesnake' for this service, and we have i'p|)oinled you to the command of that shij), with a full reliance on your aecpuiintance with all that is necessary for carrying out the same, and on your personal knowledg(? of the coast on which you arc to be employed. In furtherance of this object you are hereby re- cpiired and directed to put to sea so soon as the ' Ilattlesnake' shall \w, in all respects ready, and to use every e,\J_^^.,^i — •^'"^^^^^m'mmm :^b i 1 . 1,1 I ! . I in\ V I ' :i ! 270 •riM,NDl\. rvrry o|)criitioii tl\iif ynii mulrrtiikr. Kach of tlicin lins likcuioc Imtu siij)i)lir(l willi inmifrmis iiistrumcnls for tlic purpose of niiikiii;j prco- f^rapliic, liytlronrnpliic, niii^iiftii', iiinl atinosplicric observations in those iiortlierii ami rarely visited reffioiis of the t,'lol)c ; and we ainiex lieri'lo a copy of tlu! instruetions piven to Hir .1. Franklin, in order that yon inny \)m .ne a similar conrse ; and tlionfih we estimate any snrli obser- vations us of inferior iin|)ortanre to the one, leadin;; oltject of the Kx- pedition, yon will, nevertheless, omit no opportnnity of renderinir it as contrihntive to srientilie ac(piisitiou as to the performance of the j^reat dnties of national hnnianity. in carrying? out the above orders, you will avail yourself of every practical occasion of ac(puiiutini{ our Secre- tary with every step of your proi;ress, as well with your future inten- tions ; and on your reacliinfr Kufjlaud yol>lv of extra stores. You are now rccpiired aud directed, so soon as they an; in all respects ready for sea, to proceed to nuiku the best of your way to Cupe Virffins, in order to arrive at Hehrini^'s Straits in July. 2. At Cap(! Virfrins, the ConnnnndtT-in-Cliicf in tlit! Pacific has been desired to have a stcaiu-vessel waiting for you, and by her _\ou will be towed through the Straits of Mafj;ellau, and the Wellin^'ton Channel, and on to Valparaiso. 3. At that port you will use the utmost dispatch in watijrin;? and refreshing your crews, and in fully replenishing your bread and other provisions and stores ; ufid having so done, you will again use your best exertions to ])rcss forward to the Sandwich islaiuls, 4. There is only a bare possibility of your reaching those islands in time to meet ller Majesty's ship Herald, under the comnumd of Ca[)- tain Henry Kellett ; but if that should be the case, you will receive from him, not only every assistance, but much useful infovnuitiou touching your passage to the Strait, and your further proceedings to the northward. It is still more improbable that Her Majesty's ship Plover should be there ; but wherever you may fall in with her, you are hereby directed to tak(! her and Commander Moore under your orders. 5. At tlic Sandwich Islands you will find additional orders from us for your guidance, which we propose to forward from hence by the Panama mail of next March ; but if none shoidd an-ive, or if they do not in any way modify these directions, you will enforce the greal('sl diligence in re-victualliug yoiu' two vessels, in procuring, if possible, the necessary Escpiimaux interpreters, and in making all requisite pre- parations for at once proceeding to l?ehring's Straits, in order '.o reach the ice before the 1st of August. 6. An examination of the several orders issued to Captain Kellett will show that it is imcertiiin where he may !)(• fallen in with. Tou may probably find the ' Herald' and ' Plover' together. 7. We consider it essential that after entering the ice there should be a depot, or point of succour, for any party to fall back upon. For this pui-pose the ' Plover' is to be secured in the most favourable (juar- ,-*i'^' ; ilr iL-,.-i-ju 'j^jfT^fvaegii 07. VI'I'P.NIUX. • Jl^ *■ » , i 111 h E! I i .y ! !^P! SC i; Irr, lis liir ill iiilvniioc iis riiii Itc fiumd -siicli w VVaimvH^'lit',* liilii. or I he Cri'i'k ill llnpr Voiiit ; hut if tlii'v lie iiiiHiitV, ami noiu' \\i\* Ikm'II (liscovncrl iiciirrr to Hihtdw'h Point, thru at ('llallli^«Mo Island, or an\ part of Kotzriiiic Soiiiid wliirli iiiav allord the iicccssarv slicltir. H. Coiisidcriii;.', iiovvcvrr, llic nature of tlic xcrvicc in wliicli tlii" ' Plover' will already liave lieeii employed, and that a portion of jier rrew may lif unlit to eonlend with the rifioiirs of a Tiirt her stay in those latitudes, you will rail for voliinteer^t from tliat ship, ami from the 'lleiahr if in eompany, siitlieient to form a erew for the ' Plover;' takini? eare that the men to he nelerted are men of ^'ood eliaraeter, and that they do not exeeed in niimher what in aetually recpiired for the eare of the ship and for (h'feiiee and security a;,'ainst any treaeheroiis atlaek on the part of the nalivcH of Norton Sound. It. The petty olHeers' rating's that may he vacated hy men invaliih'd are to he lilled np hy men volunteering' to remain. Sueli volunteers are to he siihjeeted to a striet and eareful suncy f)y the nu' nniaiii iIi.tc iiiilil vmi join liiin.Or, fiiiliii^' your ret iini to liim, until llir .'iid of the smniiu'ror lsr,;{; ^iMni liut not until it i«* nlisolutcK ncccssjn-y for sccuriii;; ihc ' i'lovii'-,' im-.- siixc throii;:li the Alinlinn (iroiip of Islinids, hi' is lo ,,,iii |»(.|irin;,''» StriiilH, and ni.ikr llic iirsl of his uay to Viil|)iiriiiso (toiicliiiij,' at tin" Sandwich Isiiuids for ivfrcshinrnt), whiiv he will riTci\r further in- structions relative to his return to Kiij,dand, from the Coiniiiuuilcr-iii- Cliii-f. !•■{. If the ■ Herald" and ' l'lo\er' should he faneii in with to the northwMrd and eastward of neliriiiir's Straits, or in the I'olar Sea, Captain Kelletl, on detachiiiM' himself from your company, should con- sort with the 'Plover' as far as her winter (juarters, and if lime and ••ircunistanccs adiniltid of it, he slaaild assist in securing; her there. Ik In the iveiit of your liinin^ to winter your >liips on the conti- nent or Kscpiiinaux shores, yiHi uill |)nil)al)ly meet with some of the wandcriii^r tril)es,(ir with Indians. With these you will cidlivate a friendly feelinji, hv makinir tluni present- of iIhim' articles to which tlicy are apt to attach a value : hut you will take care not to sull'er yourself to lie surprisil !,;, t' .m, hut use every precaution, and he con- stantly on your ^uard anaiusl any Ireai'herons attack. Voii uill also, by oll'erin^' rewards, to he paid in such manner as you may he ai)li' to nrran{i;e, endeavour to prevail on them to carry to any of the settle- ments of the llnd.son's ilay Company an account of U)ur situation ami procecdinjrs, with an uruvm re(|uest that il may lie fnrwarded to Kiur. land with the ulnio.-l possible despatch. 15. [n whatever place ycm may have to eslahlish your winter (piar- ters, you will devote every resource in yoiu' power lo the preservation of tlic health, the comfort, ami the cheerfulness of the people eominitted to yimr care. Hi. Wc lea\r it to your judirmeni and discreticm as to the course to he pursued after passing- I'oint Harrow, and on enterinn- the ice; and you will h.! materially assisted in this res|)cct hy what you will learn from Captain K<'llett, if he should he fallen in with at the Sandw icli Islands, as well as from tlu' ohservatioiis of sir K. I'arrv, and Captain Heeehcy, contained in the .Memoranda of wiiicli wc -iml von copies. 17. Wi- have desired tli;it you -liall he liirnisli.il, not only uiih a copy of the Orders under which Commander .Moon- is now iiciinu. "^m also with copies of all the Orders wiuch from time to time li:i\e l,icn 1,'iveiito Captain KiUitl, as well a- with those under w hich an aitempt VOJ,. II. T i li 1P '- -* -jT-r^'W • — to push to the westward without loss of time, in the latitu(hM)f about Tl-l^till you ha\e reached the longitude of that portion of land on which Cape Walker is situated, or about !)>>" west. From that point wc desire that every elfort be used to endeavour to penetrate to the southward and westward in a course as direct towards Behring's Strait as the ])osition and extent of the ice, or the existence of land, at present unkiu)wn, may admit. (). Wc direct you to this particular part of the Polar Sea as afford- ing the best pros])ect of accomplishing the ))assagc to the Pacific, in consequence of the imusnal magnitude aud apparently fixed slaie of (he barrier of ice observed by the ' ileehi' and '(iriper,' in die year IS20, of}' Cape Dmidas, the south-western extn'uiity of Melville Island ; and we therefore consi(h'r that hiss of time would be incurred in renew- ing the attempt in that direction. But should your progress in the direction before ordered be arrested by i<'e of a perniaiuiit ,i|;pear;mce, and that when passing the moutii of the Strait, between Devon and Cornwallis Islands, you had observed that it was open and clear of ice, we desire that you will duly consider, with rcl'eniice lo the time already consumed, as well as to the symjitoms of a late or early close of the season, whether that channel might not otl'er a nmre praclieable oidlet from the Archipelago, aud a more r.'ady access to the oj)en sea, where there would be neither islands nor banks to an;'st and fix the floutnig »,.. ia 278 APPENDIX. i masses of ice; and if you should have advpiieed too far to tlic soiitii- wcstward to render it expedient to adopt tliis new eourse liel'ore tiie end of the present season, and if, therefore, you should li.ive detenuined to winter in that nei;rhl)ourhood, it will l)e a matter for your uuiture deliheriition whether in the ensuinj; season you would proeeed by tlu; above-mentioned Strait, or whether you woidd persevere to the south- westward, according to the former directions. 7. You are well aware, having yourself been one of the intelligent travellers who have traversed the American shore of tlu! Polar Sea, that the groups of islands that stretch from that sliore to the nortiiward to a distance not yet known, do not extend to the westward further than about the 12()th degree of western longitude, and that beyond this, and to Behring's Strait, no land is visible from the American shore of the I'olar Sea. 8. Should you be so fortunate as to accomplish a passage through Bein"ing's Strait, you are then to proceed to the Sandw'icii Islands, to relit the shi])s and refresh the crews ; and if, during your stay at such ])la(!e, a safe opportunity should occur of sending one of your ofKcers or des])atehes to England by Panama, you are to avail yourself of such opportunity to forward to us as full a detail of your proceedings and discoveries as the nature of the conveyance may admit of; and in the event of no such opportunity offerhig during your stay at the Sandwich bhnuls, you are on (putting them to proceed with the two ships under your command olf Pananui, there to laiul an oHicer with such (h>- s[)atches, directing him to nuike the best of his way to England with them, in such a manner as our Consul at Panama shall advise, after which you are to lose no tinu» in returning to England l)y way of Cape Horn. y. [f at any period of your voyage the season shall lie so far advanced as to makc^ it unsafe to luivigate the shi])s, and tin; health of your (•rew.-i, the state of tiu' siii])s, and all i-oneurrent circumstances should eondiiue to imluee you to form the resolution of wintering in those re- gions, you are to use your best endiuivours to discover a siieltered and safe harbour, where the ships may be jtlaced in security for the winter, taking such measures for the health and comfort of the people com- mitted to your charge as the materials witli which yon an; provided for housing in the ships may enable you to do. Aiul if you should (imi it e\pi'dii'ul to resort to this uu'asure, and \ou should meet with an\ iu- hal)ilants, eillu'r Ks(|uiniauN <>r hid la us, near (he place where \(iu winter, \()u an to I'lnleaxour ity every means iu your power to cultivate n INSTUUCTIONS. 279 rricndsliip with them, hy iiiakiii'? them prrscnts of sucli urliclfs as you may l)e supplied with, and vvliiuli may hv. useful or agivpal)h! to them; you will, howmor, take care not to suft'er yourself to be surprised !)y them, but use every precaution, ami be constantly on your {iuard against any hostility. Vou will, by oft'ering rewards, to be paid in such maimer as you may think best, prevail on them to carry to any of the settlements of tlu; Hudson's ]5ay ('ompany an account of your situa- tion and proceedings, with an urgent re(|ucst that it may be forwarded to England with the utmost possible despatch. 10. In an undertaking of this description much nnist be always left to the discretion of the commanding ollicer ; and, as the objects of this Expedition have been fidly exphiiueil to you, and you have already had much experience on sei-vice of this nature, we are convinced we cannot do better than leave it to your judgnu'ut, in the event of your not making a passage this season, eitlyr to winter on the coast, with the view of following up next season any hopes or expectations which your observations this year may lead yon to entertain, or to return to Kngland to report to us the result of such observations ; always rcc.jl- leeting our anxiety for the health, condbrt, and safety of yourself, your oliicers and nu'U ; and you will duly weigh how far the advantage of stia-ti'ig next season from an advanced position maybe counterbalanced by wha' may be sulferci! (huing the winter, and by the want of such refreshment and retitting as wouhl be afforded by your return to England. 11. We deem it right to caution you against suffering tiie two vessels placed under your crch'rs o separate, f ricejit in the event of aeciilent or imavoidablc n^cessitv ; and we desire yon to keej) up tlie most nnrcsei-ved communications with the connnanch'r of tiie 'Terror,' placing in him eveiy proper conlidtuice, and ac(|uaiuting him with the getu;ral tenour of your orders, and with your views and intentions from time to time in the execution of them, that the Service may have the full benefit of your united efforts in the prosecution of sucli a service, and that, in the event of miavoidable separation, or of any accident to yourself, Captain C'rozier may have the advantage of knowing, up to \\u\ latest practicable period, all your ideas and intentions relative to a ■satisfactory completion of this interesting undertaking. 12. We also recomnu'ud that as fre(|ueut an exchange take place as eouvenieutly may be of the cl)servations uuule in the two sliips ; that any scientific discovery made by the one i)e as ([uickly as possible eomnumieated for the advantage and guidance of the other in making I , 1 ! hi'- K,; ^ ■ I mi' w il:n m i i 'f I \ i I I I •280 Al'l'I'.NDlX. their i'litiirc ohsirvatioiis, and td increase tin- |)n)biil)ility of t!ic ol)- servations of both l)eiii}f preserved. 13. We liave raiised a f^reat variety of vahial)le, iiistriimeiits to he put on board th(; ships under your onh-rs, of whicii you will be fur- nisiied with a list, and for the return of whicli you will be iield res])on- sible. Anioufj these are instnnnents of the latest iniproveuients for inakinjf a series of ol)servations on terrestrial niagiietisni, whieh are at this time peculiarly desirable, and strongly reeoniniended by the Pre- sident and Council of the lloyul Society, that the iuijiortant advan- taf^e be derived from observations taken in the North Polar Sea, in eo-operation with tiie observers wh'> an; at present carryiuji on a uni- form system at the nia^^netie observa ')ries established by i'lnjihmd in her distant territories, and, thron^-h inr inlluenee, in other parts of the world; and tlie more desirables is this eo-operalion in tlu' present year, when these splendid establisliments, whieh do so n>ueli honour to tiie luitions wild iuive eheerfully erected them at a i;;reat expense, are to cease. 'Hie only mni^-netical observations that have been obtained very partially in the Arctic rejrious are now a (piarter of a century old, and it is known tiiat the phenomena are sulyect to considerable secular chau'ves. It is also stated by Colonel SabiiU' that the instruments and methods of obsi rvation have b('eu so greatly im|)roved, that the earlier observations are nut to be uanu d in point of precision with those wiiich would now be made ; and \\v concludes by i)bser\ ini>', that the passage throufrh th(; Polar Sia would allbrd llu: most imi)ortant service that now remains to be pin'formed towards the completion of the magnetic survey of the globe. 14. Impressed with the importance of this subject, we have deemed it proper to rcepicst Lieutenaut-(Jolonel Sabine to allow Comnuinder Fitzjames to prolit by his valuable instructions ; and we direct you therefore to place tins imjjortant branch of science under the immediate charge i,f Counnander Kitzjames ; and as several other officers have also received similar instruction at Woolwich, you will therefore cause observations to be nuuh; daily on board each of the ships whilst at sea (and when not prevented by weather and other circumstances) on the magnetic variation, dip and intensity, noting at the time the tempera- ture of the air, and of the sea at the surface and at different depths ; and you will be careful that in harbour and on other favourable occa- sions thosi; observations shall be atteuih'd to, by means of whicli the influence of the ship's iron on the result obtained at sea may be com- puted and allowed for. INSTIlUCTIONiS. 281 15. Ill tl)(> possil)l(; event of tlie ships l)eiiig detained during? a winter in tlie liiu;li latitudes, the expedition lias been Hiipplied with a jiortahle observatory, and with iiistrimients similar to those which arc einplcned in the fixed nia^nietieal and ineteoroloj^ieal observatories instituted by Her Majesty's (Jovt'rnineiit in several oftiie Jiritisli colonies. 16. It is our desire that, in ease ol' such detention, olwervations should be made with these instruineiits, according to the system adopted in the aforesaid oliservatories ; and detailed iHrections will be supplied for this purposes which, with tin; instruction veeeivfd at Woolwich, will be found, as we conhdentK anticipate, to atl'ord fidl and sutricieiit guid- ance for such observations, which will derive from their locality peculiar interest and a high theoretical value. 17. ^\c have also directed iustruments to be specially provided for observations ou atmospherical refra'ion at very low altitudes, in case of the Expedition being detained during a winter in the high latitudes. On this subject also particular directions will l)e supplied, and you will add any other meteorological observations that may occur to vou of general utility; you will also take occasions to try the depth of the sea and nature of the bottom, tlu; rise, direction, and strength of the tides, and tlu; set and velocity of currents. IS. And you are to understand that although the effecting a passimc from the Atlantic to the I'acitie is the main object of this expedition, yet that the ascertaining the true geographical position of the dilferenl points of land near which you may pass, so far as can be eU'eeted with- out detention of the ships in their progress westward, as well as such other observations as you may have opportunities of making in natural history, geography, etc., in parts of the globe either wholly unknown or little visited, must prove most valuable and interesting to the scienct' of our countiy ; and we therefore desire you to give your unremitting attention, and to call that of all the ofhcers undc- your command, to these points, as being objects of high interest and importance. 19. For the pui-pose, not only of ascertaining the set of the currents in the Arctic Seas, but also of aJI'ording more frequent chances of hear- ing of your progress, wc; desire that you do fretpiently, after you have passed the latitude of 65° N., and once every day when you shall b(! in an ascertained current, throw oAcrboard a botth; or copper evlinder closely sealed, and containing a paper stating the date and |)osition at which it is launehiMl ; and you will give similar orders to the commander of the 'Terror,' to be executed in ease of separation ; and for this |)uqiose W(; have causeil each ship to be supplied with papers, on which is ' ( i ' wn i I I v ' ♦. * f - ill t i 'i I '. i 282 APPENDIX. printed, in scvcml lunminnfus, a request that whoever may find it should laiie nieasuns for transniittinfr it to tliis otiice. 20. Vou are to niak,v wliDin :4U)iplil'(l. Quuntity. Hini'iiit . . lb.*. 35,501) 1 Dcptford V'ictiiiilliiin Kslablishniuiit Klour . . . lbs. 78,Ol)l> ('oiu'ontrntL'il gills. 2,'27r)5 Riini WilU'M . . gnls. 21G .... Hi'inulv . . xi\\*. no Cornell Uei'i' . lbs. 37,808 .... Corned Pork lbs. 'J,370 1 1 Reiimrks. Good: as nil biscuil iiiiidi' in the Uoveninii'iil Nurds is, und 1 mil not iiwiuH! of aiiv iicciiliiirily ill that supplied to (bis I'^xpo- (lit ion. Tile cases, as far as wo could preserve tliem from in- jui'j, were of frve;it value, keep- iuf{ tbe bread drv mid prevent inn inei'i'ase of weiylit and mois- ture, by wliieli it beeaine iiiaiii- fcsth less palatable. T' c •"'•,>• si.\-pouiid ea' .'s ans\.ercd well ; but tbe woe i was ineoiivenient. lldi' s))e('ial letter on broad. Good; but not siillieientk fjood to make fjood bread, Tbe rea- son 1 must leave to tbe cooks und bakers: our private stoii3 of (lour, probably at some eost, was better. Very good. Good : weir selected witlioiit re- gard to sliglit increase of price, ns tbey were intended for tbe siek und tliosc wlio disliked ruin. Good, very good, extra lality. Very good : but as my wislies on tliis matter bad to give way to certain pressure from wit bout, ride special letter. Tliat corned in tiie usual manner rerii salt, owing to tbe want of fatty mixture in tbe aniiiial,and no fat introduced into tbe eusks to remedy this delieieiicy. IIKI'OHT ON PROVISfONS. 285 S|u>i'ii'H, Uncoil . . ('rwii «iili'-.to- Ki'llicrctow- I'd ill iniilt liniii niul wnipiicd ill ciiiivus.) Doili'd liiicoii (Stowi'd ill I ill ClISCH i'l'Dtll 50 to 58 llw. I'llcli, tilled in hctwt'iMi with fat.) Siii't . . . t'livriiiits . . Split I'l'ii!) . Oatnicid . 8iipii' . . C'liocoliitf Uitto, imslc Ditto, Nwoft ESHCIIPI- of Colli'O Tea . . Vinofiiir . . Tobiuro . . boiip . . . Lomon Juiw ('rnnl)t'i'i'it's . NoviiiiiiKly I'ippiiis Dates . . . Driod Applfs Dried Cab- bage , OflllcScil ' SI.mO,. (^iiinlitv. IbH. 2a,58« lbs. :«,oio ll.H. 2,1 Of! U.S. l,(KIO bust 1. 120 t:nU 40 lb.. 20,750 11m. (!,272 lbs, t-JO Ib.s. 150 half- pints 50 lbs. 1,550 pals 120 lbs. 4,1)01. lbs. 5,000 lbs. G,10S 1 lbs. 3,520 lbs. 1,100 Ib.s. 200 lbs. 1,141 lbs. 1,139 ll\ ^^ll(llll silpplii'd. Moovc and liiicklfv Fort mini and Mason Fortinim and Ma.ioii SiK'cially jnir- i'basrd for Kxpi'dition lU'iiiarliH. flood ■ but not II I'nvimritr, nor of I'.'.t (iiiiilily. Tlif fat of ibis 1)111 on, ciircd for /re////// mid pi'i'doniiiialiiij;, was nol Iran,-- purfiU wlii'ii Ijuileil. ilood : but too ^riiit a jiropor- tioii of fat to tbi^ lean. Ui'tt"!' than till' pi'ocodini;. Good. Good ; very ^otid. Vi'rv yood ; and iv/v/ im purl mil thai tlirv slioiild In- thf wir/'xl I bat Clin be procured. No eotuplaint. Mot so nood as I could have wished : f^rcal sediinoni ami very dayoy j grain very siiiidl. Good. Excellent : and ycry important to the travelliiij.; parties. Kxcclleiit ; converted into a su- perior art iclo It) former by ad- ilitiini of Moore's milk. Very fjood : and frequently given to exhausted parlies of men who had fallen in, instead of rum. Very superior. (tood. Good. Customary (lualify sup])lied tc Her IMajcsty's shij). Good; but owiiij,' to the bottles frequently brc.ikint; with the slightest iiijur\, much lost. Tcry good and very benclleial. A'ery good .-^ The apples ])rcfor- ^ red, but not siilli- Vci'v good : C cienllyaeid. They Ver; ; ood : ^ should be jiocu- liai y so, and immersed in si/ritp or treacle for this service. Kxcclleiit : very much estecnied, and wlicn niixi'(i.', I ,.V.) i 7,221 lbs. 2(>,fi(i8 lbs. 0,8flr. lb.... 12.VS1 lbs. 1,629 lbs. 1,120 lbs. 1,125 Al'I'FNniX. Ily wlioin supplied, Fiidciiillc mid Cunipiinv Mooiv iind llucklcv li'dwiirds mid C'ompmiy Fortniun i\w Miison Roniiirk*. 'rbccin'mts rccpiin' Iod nuK Ii iiI- Icniion, iind tlun't'orc not III for Hca Kcrvicc us ml ions. The di'icd poliilocs Ciccllent ; iniiv be eiisily used ns sidiid or ill iniiliilioii of eucniuber. The HCiinicn did noi Inkc to tbein, bcciuisc l)ic) rc(inin' more time Iind iittintion tlimi luhv.irds's |iotnto. Very (!i)od, pnrticniiirly for in- vidids ; rcipiires to be kept in uir-tinbl ves-icis, and tlie di- rections ini))lieilty obeyed, or its (umlity very inueli im- paired. Vei-j- good, and couvenii'iit ibr inimediiite use. Tbc cold caus- ed it fo deposit larjie crystals of siifjar, and the deposit in tea after thin yvns very iiiueli in- creased. There can be no mistake about l)iekles, — cannot be fjad, but oil of beat quality. Very good and roiivenient for inimediiite use, probably better for genenil service than the dried, but for the table the purity of the ap])carance of tlu' dried and the variety of its uses rtuulor it neceasary as a luxury. All the preserved meats and soups su]>])lied to this Expedi- tion are of the best (piality — Hogarth's superior — but it can- not be doubted that for thin .serricf they arc very much overcooked. Tbc jiortable soups verj- valun- ble, particidarly when substi- tuting game for the rations. Good. Vei-y good : has bec"n substituted for pounded biscuit in pemmi- ean, and considered of givat impoi'tauee : they have iieg- lecti'd Edwards's jiotato for it. SplM'il'H. Mi-inl Ccul . I''iiiiiiiii Iliiil- lloi'k I'i'iiiiiiit'liM KsSI'tlCf (if Mull niiiii iiii|w . hillii S|ii'iici' 'I'lTMlIc , . Sci'd; Miistnrd 1111(1 Cri'Ks Oiiiiml'owilcr ('iii'vv Powder Ditto I'listc . l{(ikiii|^ I'ow- ilcr Hidt . . . I't'lHn'r, llliick (whole) iJilloCiiyer.iu' I'liillies, dri(Hl Dried Yeust Mdstiird, J)lU'lllllll Burton Ale I'aint — Veriiiilion . Bliick . . ^■i■llow . . Oftl U' . H'W St lek. Qua lit it \. 11m. UH lllH. r,52 IIh. l.OHDl lb-. 2,U»() llm. HI. llw. H lbs. 7ai 11h. It) \h«. (;i7i Ibx. 2tt lb.. l(! IbH. 2tMl lbs. 2!)l IbH. 2W) IbH. 20 lbs, lit lbs. ;»9 lbs. 8HII -mN. 510 lbs. 2 lbs. i> lbs. 2 \'\ will on su|i)ili('(l. lIot,'iii'tb Kortiiiiiii 1111(1 Mason Fortiuim nnd Miison C'»iitiiiii White Fortnnin nnd Mason Fortiiuni and Miisoii Kortimm and Mason Forfnnin and Mason Fort mini and Mason .Messrs, Allsojip Kciimrkii, Filth not admired : but the I'iii lion baddoi'k nn/ i/iiod — used more li_N iiU'ieers, Very yiHid lor the imr|iose hiiji piled: that in which eiirriiiit^ and herbs mixed iiiiieli iirel'er red. .Soniii eonid hiii'div be iii- (Ineed toeiil il ; even went willi out ! > Invuhmhle, Not tried, (3ood. Good, and siitisfaeforiK pro diieeil. Jixcellent ; but the men, if lel'l to themselves, use more at a time thiiii )iroper. It ineoiii- modes the traveller. Good : sii]iplj' too diiiull for use fjenerall). Vi'i-y Rood. or very yreat imiiortanee, and partieiiliirly to weak stonmehs; but better (lour re<|uirod (ov this ser\'ii'e. Good. Good. Very iuiiKirlant totravelliii),' par- ties. Men who reliised peiii- niieun, indueed h\ this anil onion powder to take it. Miieli relished at the travelling luncheon (mixed with mustard ))repared bet'oreliand). Verj Rood. Very yooil,l)ut yet not sullieiently slron;;, — darker was sehtttd. liy experiments made at a tem- perature of 12" on deck, it was I'ouiid to stand + 12° before af- foriliii),' any symptom of eoiiRC- lation. I'irii yoiid and rery hnportaiil ; its loss will be felt next sprinjj. Not used. I IlKroUT (tN PHGVISIGNS. •2S7 I » ■I4 I'ldfirnl.df »'. llliH ''rfi|ii- Hoiiltiwi .1. r« Hrry (liiirii «I'V |'r.„|(a ^^"■fll ■'kiiil /i(i-« l»i(t-,, \hU . U.|.(, \\„-, , Hjidrii Hull « ; all the supplies you can spare for the relief of any party that might reach that neighbourhood from Captain Collinsou's or ("onunaiider .M'Clure's siiip. Vou will also ex- tend your iiarties right and left along the shore, and in such direction as may be advisable, as far as may be prudent, in order to deposit no- tices of your proceedings and intentions, and of the store of supplies left at. ^loore llarl)our. ;{. iV'forc quitting Moore Harbour yon will erect such house or place of shelter for any arri\iiig party as your means will permit; and even if yon should Ije unalihMo move the ' i'lover' round to (irantley Harbour, you and your people are, at all events, to make good your retreat to the niiarters to be proxiiled in that liarliour by ('ommauder 'rrollope. * Vor the Orders Nos. I., II., and III., see Vol. 1. p. 1 et seq. 01 nuH'tirifi; tiic wmits ot tlic crews ot tiic' Entcriinsi'iiiid ' Investi- gator,' should tlioso slii])3 be driven buek upon iU'hriiij; Strait, or slioidd circiuiistances iiave rendered it imperatively necessary for tiie crews to abandon tlieni, a course stated by Commander M'Clure (in a letter, dated 20th July, 1850, to Captain Kellet) "he mij^ht be com- pelled to adopt after the winter of 1852, by ])roeeediii'>- in the spring of 1853 to rput his vessel with sledges and boats, and make the best of his way to Tonds' Hay, Leopold Harbour, the Mackenzie lliver, or for whalers, according to circumstances." With the view, tiiereiore, of conveying assistance to the shijjs at Behring Strait, we \,avv. appropriated the ' ilattlcsuake" for this service, and wc have ii;,pointed you to the conunand of that ship, with a full niliance on your ac([uaintance with all that is necessary for currying out the same, and on your personal knowledge of the coast on which you are to be employed. In furtherance of this object you are hereby re- quired and directed to put to sea so soon as the 'liattlesn-ake' shall \m in all respects ready, aiul to use every exertion to be olf Cape Lisbiirne, IJehring Strait, at as early a period of this year as possible. In order to aid in this purpose a steamer will be directed to tow you clci'r of iiiid ' Invcsti- iij; Strait, or I'ssary for tlio M'Cliirc (ill a i^iit hv. coin- ill the spriiii^ ivf till' best of llivcr, or for tli(^ ships at r tliis service, ), witii a full r carryiiii>; out m which you re hereijy re- liike' shall ho ipe Lishiirue, le. In order '• you ck'i'V of snake' to Grantley Harbour, Port Clarence, before the season of 1853 is too far advant;,!. Your ship is in all respects fitted and provided for the senice upon which you are employed, and you are well acfpiainted with all that is necessary on such occasions for the hcidth of those uniler your orilers and for the security of Her Majesty's ship. You will employ your people, as far as is practicable, in the winter months, in the prciiara- tions necessary for every operation in the spring, or so soon as the opening of the ice will admit of carrying supplies to Commander Ma- guire, or to other points, as circumstances may determine. You will take every means of leaving proper records of your condi- tion and intended proceedings, and of the positions where you may havt; deposited provisions, taking as your guide for the distinctive mark of such records the instructions contained in par. 7 of our orders to Sir E. Belcher, and Sir E. Belcher's direction in his letter to the Lords of the Acbniralty of 29th May, 1852, in furtherance of these orders. You will also convey every information to us by thf whole ships which pass through the Strait on their return to the respective countries to which they belong. You are not to continc your conmuuiications to J m' M tif I!? I ill: 11 li 11 lUfii irom lilt! riover; a; u as you will receive consuleraulc assistance in this object from tiio Indians, whose settlements are in the vicinity of your winter (|uarters, you are to cultivate their good feelhigs by every means in your power, and to take care that no cause of offence be given to tlieni, and for ail s'.ipplies of provisions which tlieir hunting parties may procure you are always to pay in a liberal and proper manner. You are supplied with all documents and papers connected with the various Polar Searches ; and, in closing these orders, we have to express our coutidencc in your ability, and to leave you to act in such mamici as will best fulfil our intentions. Given under our hands this 9th February-, 1853. (Signed) To I1i;miy Tkolloim;, Esq., Commamler of Il.M.i'. Unltlemake, at FortsMonth. \^) Comiiiaiid of their Lordship;-, W. A. Vi. Hamilton. J. 11, G. GllAHAM, Hyde Parkeu, M. l'\ F. liEllKELEY. Ic iissistaiice ic vicinity of igs by every ice be given iting parties manner, ted with the e to exjjress luch mauiiei GUAIIAM, \11KEU, liEUKKLEY. arc iicreby recjuii-ed and directed, so soon as tliey are in all respects ready lor sea, to proceed in the ' Enterprise,' u., \r youv immediate command, and taking the 'Investigator' (Captain IMrd) under your ordcjrs, without delay to Lancaster Sound. In your progress tlirough that inlet to the westward, you will carefully search both its shores, as well as those of Barrow Straits, for any notices that may have been de- |)osited there, and for any casual indications of their having been visited by either of Sir Jolm Franklin's ships. Siiould your early arrival there, or the fortunately protracted open- ness of the season, admit of your at once extending a similar examina- tion to tile shores of the Wellington Cliaunel, it will leave you at greater liberty to devote yourself more fully afterwards to your researches to l!u) westward. The several intervals of coast that appear in our charts to lie between Capes Clarence and Widkcr, must next be carefully ex- plored ; and as each of your vessels have been furnished with a launch litted with a small engine and screw, capable of iJiopelling it between four and ti\e knots, we trust t)y tiieir means, or by the ships' boats, all llioffc j)reliniinary restarciie.s may be completed during the present sea- son, and conseepiently bci'ore it may be necessary to secure th>; ships in il\< t It' 1! ; I ij I 'fl i ■:t- ! ' ward, and endeavour to reach Winter Harbour in Melville Island, or Iierhaps, if circumstances should in your judgment render it advisable, to push onward to Banks' Land ; but in either case a distinct statement of the measures you are going to adopt, as well as of your future inten- tions, shoidd be depositid in some spot previously conuuunicatetl to Captain Bird. From this western station you will be able to spread some active parties, and to make some short and useful excursions before the season altogether closes, and still more effective ones in the ensuing spring. One party shoidd then pursue the coast in whatever direction it may seem likely to have been followed by Sir John Franklin, and thus determine the general shape of the western face of Banks' Land. It is then to proceed direct to Cape Bathurst or to Cape Tarry on the mainland, at each of which places we have directed Sir J. Richardson to leave provisions for its use ; that party will then advance to Fort Good Hope, wIuto they will find directions for contiiming tlieir progress up the M'Kenzie River, so as to return to England by the usual route of traders. Another ])arty will explore the eastern coast of Banks' Land, and from thence nuike at once for Cape Krusenstern, where, or le Island, or it advisable, ict stateuu'iit future inteii- uunicateil to le to spread 1 excursions ! ones in the in whatever hn Franklin, e of Banks' 3 Cape Parry 'cted Sir J. hen advance tinning tlieir jland by the niks' Land, , where, or iiiiu lu iiiiiM; sueii uiiau^eiiu^us lor me omeers and crews as niav »(■ most consonant to the rules of the service, and most conducive to the objects of the Expedition. If you should hapi)ily succeed in meeting with the 'Erebus' afloat, and Sir John Franklin's peiulant be tlyinj;, you will of course ])laei> yourself under his orders ; Itnt if you should iind that shij) blocked up with ice, or otherwise incapable of proceeding, you are hereby author- ized and directed to retain the connnand of the Expedition, aiul adojjt all such measures as nuiy be recpiisite for the safe removal of her crew, or that of the ' Terror.' In the event of Great Britain being hivolved in hostilities with any foreign power during your aljseucc, you are to abstain from the smallest act of aggression towards any vessel belonging to such nation, it being the practice of all civilized countries to consider vessels engaged on service of this kind as exempt from the rules and operations of war. Both vessels under your orders have been furnished with abundance of stores, and with more than a suliicieney of everything that can in any wise contrilnite to the welfare of their crews ; and we especially direct you to consider their safety, health, and comfort as jjredominaat in 1 il! ■Hi V 4'H J 11^! i t. Orci'tiliithe. Hy Comnmiul of tlicir Lordships, (Signed) - ll. (i. AVaiid. No. VII. «%t7;«^ Orilirsfor Captain (hUbison, of II.M.S. Enterpmc liy the Cowwhsioners fur Executing the Ofjice of Lord High Mmirril of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland. 1 . \Mim'ns the rfl'orts that luivo been made during the hist two years to relieve tiie ' Erebus' and ' Terror' have faihid, and all aeeess to tiie PaiTy Islands has been jjrevented by the aceunndation of iee in the upper part of Barrow Straits ; and whereas it is possible that the same severity of weather may not prevail at the same time in both the eastern and western entrances to the Aretic Sea, we have now determined, in a matter of such moment, to send an Expedition into the Polar Sea from the westward; and having a full contidence in your zeal and skill. V^ rpt'isc igh yfdmirrd nd, ist twoyrni's K'COSS to tll(^ •f icu in llie liat the same li the eastern tenninod, in le Polar Sea ■al and skill, tonclunj^ your passajje to tlie Strait, and your iiirtlier i)rooee(lnifi;s to the northward. It is still more improbable that Her Majesty's ship Plover should be there ; but wherever yon may fall in with h(;r, you arc hereby directed to tak(! her and Connnander Moore under your orders. 5. At the Sandwich Islands you will find additional orders from us for your guidance, which we propose to forward from hence by thi'. Panama mail of next March ; but if none shoidd annve, or if they do not in any way modify these directions, you will enforce the great(!st diligence in re-victualling your two vessels, in procuring, if possible, the necessary Esrpiimaux interpreters, and in making all requisite ])re- parations for at once proceeding to Eehring's Straits, in order to reach the ice before the 1st of August. 6. An examination of the several orders issiu'd to Captain Kelletl will show that it is uncertain where he may be fallen in with. \o\: may probably find the ' Herald' and ' Plover' together. 7. Wc consider it essential that after entering the ice there shoidd be a depot, or point of succour, for any party to fall back n])on. For this purpose the ' Plover' is to be secured in the most favourable quar- \i }\\ ^1 III 01 I ominaiultr Moore, and witli tlu; othcrrs now in tlit; ' riover, or with tliosc wlio may volunteer for tlie serviee), the ' I'lover,' if tlie ' lleraUr sliould l)e in ronipany, is to he tilled up hy Captain Kellelt with all the provisions, fuel, uiul stores that can possibly hv spared hy Captain Kellett, who will hear in mind, not only what may he refjuired for the use of the ' Plover's' crew until the autumn of 1853, and the contingency of parties arriving on hoard from Sir John Franklin's Ex- pedition, hut also the possibility of any party from the ' Enteq)rise' or ' Investigator' having to fall back iipon the ' I'lover.' 11. In providing for this necessary ecpiipmcnt for the 'Plover,' attention will be paid to the numbers left in the * Herald,' and the supplies necessary to carry that vessel to Whoahoo ; and having re- ceived from Captain Kellett any baidars, or light boats, that he may be able to spare, and which may be likely to form a usefid addition to your own boats, or those of the ' Investigator,' when searching jjarties may be (h'tached from the ships in the spring, the 'Herald' will return to the Sandwich Islands, there to fill u\) provisions; and from thence proceed to Hongkong on her way to England, in jjursuance of our orders of the 14th Decendur last. riovcr, or nor,' if till' itain Ki'llt'tt II! spared by ■ he rt'fiuircd 53, and tliu inkliu's Ex- itoq)risi!' or IC TIOVCT,' Id,' niul the having rc- it lie may be addition to hing j)arties ' will return from tlionre aiiee of our in ollcriiiLr rewards, (o Uv paiil in sueli nianner as ym may hr able to arrani!;e, endeavour to prevail on tinni to earn to any of tlie M'tlle- iiients of the Iliidson"s l?ay Coinpany an aeeonnt of U)nr situation and proeeediiifrs, willi an nriivnl iv(|ne-t lliat it may lie rmwariled to Ena. land uitli the nliiio:-! |iossilile dopiitrh. 15. In whatever place \ou may have to establish ynw « inter (piar- ters, you will (h'vote every resource in your power to the preservatiou of the health, tiir eonifoit. and the eiicei'fniness of ihe people eomuiitted to your care. Hi. We lea\e it to your jndirnient and discretion as to the course to be pursued after passinn' I'ciiit Harrow, and on enteriiiir the ice; and you will b.! materially assisted in this respect by what yon will learn from Captain Kellett, if he slionld be fallen in with at tiieSanduirh Islands, as well as from the ()h^hall be fiinii-hrd, ii(,t ciily u itii a eojiy of the Orders under which Commander .Mooiv is imu a.iiiiM-. f),,) also witli copies of all the Orders wliirh from time In lime have been given to Caplain Kdiitl, as well a^ with tiiosc underu liicli an aiU nipt VOJ.. II. -J. Al'PENDIX. 299 During my jounicys over the ice in spring and autumn, when a restless mind naturally sought for some object to fill up the gap, I first became aimply interested in watching the beau- tiful forms Avhich fell on my rough jacket and remained sus- pended in the nap; or frequently, when engaged anxiously watching the passing eloiuls to obtain a glimpse of the sun, a single well-defined crystal nas fallen on the cold arc of my sextant, and, aided by the attached microscope, I have profited by the opportunity to effect a perfect examination. The pilot, by long practice and the use of his reasoning faculties, even of very ordinary calibre, is enabled to read the heavens, the clouds, tides, winds, and other phenomena with almost unerring precision. My eonrsc of life surely entitles nic to such a habit. But whether granted or not, I did so far transr nearly two years' meditation, into decidedly meteorolo- gical characters, denoting, tu my mind at least, the state of the atmosphere. But a few years since the study of the law of storms excited but little attention ; many inquired if I believed in them ; Ijut who is rash enough at the present day to doubt their truth ? Science is making rapid strides, and what is occurring at the anti|)odcs is, by a document now before nic, really becoming matter of discussion on the other side of the Atlantic ! "Of what use is science?" escaped the lips of two jjcrsons high in otHcc. "With what result, consult the imdying address of the President of the British Association at the meeting held at Birmingham. Wonderful to the uneducated appear the advances made of late years ir. navigation; sensible people cease to withhold credit to those engaged in its amelioration ; and onr own Government, in conjunction with that of the United States, has now instituted, by the advice of competent " lights of science" or "master-minds," a distinct Mcteoroh)gical De- partment, in order to collect data and construct charts adapted for the mIioIc world, which Avill eual)le the skilful mariner to sail over certain curves which offer him the avoidance of calm lii; rsm ^mm ^mt mmmmmm H 300 APPENDIX. i'(. or hurricane, .ind the advantage of prevailing winds to sliortcu his voyage, decrease his danger, and save that most vahiablc of all commodities — Time. Such matters in Arctic nangation, or in snow travel, arc to he calculated, or anticipated, with equal precision, by the study of the forms of snow crystals, which, to the observant mind, arc merely varieties of rain, — the rcsui of causes in action, and from wliicli line or bad weather may naturally be i)ro- gnosticatcd. Three classes were made by mc, and termed : — 1. Stars and garters — from their resemblance to the order of knighthood and perfection of crystal, or such as might re- sult from temporary currents of electricity suddenly forming and condensing vapour, as compared to fine, light, passing showers between l)r!^';lit gleams of sun. It will of course be understood that such light rain, which in other clinics would not obsciu'c the sun, woidd in the state of snow be more opaque. 2. Kain — heavy floceulcnt snow, cohering, and into wliieli the travellers and sledge sunk deeply, warning the intelligent ollicer that he had better pitch his tent, and reserve the strength of his crew for a period m hen search would be rtilionat. 3. Bad-omened — tine, spicular .snow, the result of No. 1 broken by the wind into fine particles : this induced us to expect the sharp rain attended by wind of other climates, but did not hinder travel, — it was not so opaque as to impede vision. These remarks apply simply to the question of utUity in such pursuits ; and, as regards the terms selected by me, were adapted to the minds of those by whom I was surrounded, and who fuUv understood, in their own wav, the full intent of thj freemasonry Mhich most leaders maintain Avith their foUov.ers. Frequent study induced me to figure what appeared to mc to be the primitive form of i\\v. perfect crystal, and to reject th(; more complicate, but yet most lieautiful, as interminable additions to the primitive, conformable to the law of congealed 'i! i ;■ 'p^ ^ * i i L i 1. -ii/i-a \l'l'KM)l\. :U)1 wtiter. Fn n.y oxaininntioiis I dc-tortod the prrfcot lioxa^'oiial prismatif (onnaticn of cvcrv ray, ami lliat tlu' additional ra\» (lis[)()std tlieinsclvc's invariably at aiijilos of CAf and 1:20^ to the primitive jsix-ravcd crvstal, I'ollowcd in Miccvssiou hv otliovs parallel to the main ray, llii> alternate sueet.-^ion pro- ducing eventually the most eom|)lieate and beaiitii'id star. One peculiarity prevailed, viliieli I am dad to notice vcvilied 1)y some oi' those lately e.\hil)ited by Mr. (ilai^her; this is^ tlu^ prolongation of the arms crossing;- the prinuiry crystal — longest on the exterior or lesser angle and shorter \Ailliin, as may l)e noticed on the larger crystals of Plate XX. In Plate XIX. it will l)e seen that my drawing would agree nearly with the small crystal in the corner, and that the prolongation of the secondary additions to Plate XX. on the left would fall nearly into that drawn by mc on the .:<[)ot. The means of carefid examination of a single radial arm of one inch and a half in length was furnished by bushels of such fragments occurring in the snow furrows. TIu^sc were noticed during my spring travel of 1853, and it is curious that not more than two were found by me connected. They comi)letely represented the fcrn-likc form noticed l)y Mr. (ilaisher. Du- ring winter, the beams and illuminators of my store-rooms abaft my cabin became incrustc-d \ ith the cimdenscd Vajjours in still more perfect aggregations; ami in ]\lay, IS.") I, 1 had a final opportuinty by daylight, under a tenii)ei'ature of — "j'^, of deliberately investigating siujilar masses of such forms — beds, as it were, of crystalline ferns — taken from the ratters of oiir Crystal Palace. In the crystal which 1 have etuleavoured to exhibit in its simplest change from the primitive, I have ado])ted merely the initial or secondary spurs. Jf the observer will add in succession, at similar angles to the jjrimary and secondary, other spm's, in accordance Avith an outward centrifugal, or explosive, inclination, omiitir.g the inner slun't arms, he will then be able to form some idea of the most highly fmished of Nature's innnediate achievements. lUit these 1 find do not occur among those noticed in England. Such were my 1^ K. t If' V' Hi'! j., ' * i, 1. ' 1 : ,)!i ji; '' II I, ■ #h! 302 APPENDIX. owu ^Iwprvations, to wliicli I Jiin liappy to add the foUowiiifj;, kindly fiirnisluul by Mr. Glaislicr. " In regard to the subject of snow crystals, the severe ])eriod at the coniracneemcnt of this year threw much additional lii^lit, and satisfactorily established that, with the exception of di- minished size, the snow crystals of our latitudes arc as com- plex as those of colder regions, to which formerly they were supposed to be confined, and in consequence were d(»iguated Polar snow by ancient writers, of whom Aristotle and Descartes were among the first. This supposition, indepen- dently of the evidence furnished by the correspondence of my own drawings and those of Dr. Seoresby and Sir Edward Belcher, seems to be pretty nearly disproved by the prevalence of one common character existing in all that 1 ha\'c noticed during the last two winters, when they have constituted no unimportant part of my meteorological investigations. " The base of each figure that I examined was either a star of six radii or a plane hexagon, the accessions to the original figure being composed of spiculaj, prisms, rhomboids, or hexa- gons, aggregated around the principal radii at an angle; of 00", in strict accordance with the law applying to the crystalliza- tion of water. The size of these beautiful formations might be considered to vary from an almost infinitesimal speck to 0'5 inch in diameter, 0"1 and 0-2 being the most prevalent sizes that I observed. " To the naked eve their general effect diftcrcd considerably, in some instances being perfectly arborescent and fcru-likc in character, in others as produced by the interlacing of spieula^ or prisms ; these last might be considered to belong rather to the lower te nperatures than the former, which had some- what an affinity to the beautiful incrustations that we wit- ness on glass during frosty weather. Of the greater lunnber that I observed the radii were of even length, and tlu; in- crustations on them similar; but some I recorded of which three long alternated with three short radii, the former richly laden with secotulary and tertiary formations, the latter slen- der and but slightly laden. Such figures were more frequently ' i f : ( 11^ {■'I ■ 'H m APPENDIX. :iO.S to be met with at the ronimeiiccmeut oi' the frost, and very seldom i)erfect, hciii^ fractiinMl in (licir (IcHcciif. ToMards the coneliisioii of the frost, and when the severity of the Meather had l)ccii loii}? eontiiuied, the prevaihiip; character of thesi; bo- dies might be said to change : they were U'ss often to be seen in the iutcrniC(Hate stages of crystalhzation, and were of more solid structure and richly incrusted than those of any other period, and presented on investigation combinations of solid figures cut into facets, which glistened with crystalline trans- parency, according to the inflections of tlie light upon theii- surfaces. " The observation of these bodies may not imi)robal)ly assist in the solution of higher problems; at present we are greatly in doubt respecting their origin, and I regret that 1 have been able to throw so little light on this part of the subjectt, although I had frequent facilities of observing the method of their change from one figure to another, which was accomplished with inconceivable rapidity and kaleidoscope movement very beautiful to witness. "^My method of observing these bodies was to receive them upon a piece of plate-glass, cither plain or coloured, which had been previously exposed, ami thus cooled down to several de- grees below the temperature of the air. I m as by this means able to examine them in their progress towards dissolution Avjth much minuteness, and it was interesting to observe the grouj)s of prisms nearest tlie apex dissolve, in so doing thicken- ing and elongating the spiculic which had served as axes to the prisms. Bcyoiul recording the forms of these bodies, 1 have been able to determine verv little- that is satisfactory concern- iug them. I came however to infer that the greater the cold the greater their departure from the figure of the simple star, and the further removed they were in their component ])arts from any similitude to the com iion icicle or to the incrusta- tions on the surface of water at its first congelation. " In the early period of the frost I traced much analogy lic- tween these figures and such incrustations, with the great ex- ception, that the latter never assumed the stt-Uar form, but !^:l '!l . id ur V '.If; i hl» ; 804 AI'PKNIUX. were to be met v :'!• in {j;r(»ii|is oi' sinjilc prinial, Cor ilic most l)art irrej,'ul!irly (listiil)uti'(l imd in tin; richest prolusion ; this order of fifjnres inehulcd hir^er orystiils than those oi hij^h ervstiilline fonuation, svliieli were IVe(|iiently ()•().") inch and even h-ss in diameter, and were intensely j;listenin^-, and indeiHMidently of tlic; varions phines (lomposinjj; them, were mark(!d with inner paralUd tracinj^s, sueli hh I have ahmc seen recorded by Dr. Scoresby. "The great tend(>ney of tliese l)odies, so far us I could ol)- Ncrvc, was to simplify themselves from the moment of their descent, — Mliether from the dideronce of temperature, or from an alteration in the chemical constituents of the atmosi)here near the surface of the jrronnd, I am as yet i{;;noi'ant. That they };o throujih various chanffcs in their descent is undoubted, judging from various appearances, which to me were jierlectly anomalous, until towards the close of the cold weather I was able to ascertain the method of their iinal dissolution, imme- diately preceding which every line became (if I may so say) relaxed and every angle blunted. This in \y,\rt explained the seeming anomaly presented by several of intermediate for- mations, which towai'ds the apex of their radii were crowned with to all appearance tufts of jagged and serrated leaves, quite uidike tlie geometric precision of these figures and their avoidance of curved lines generally. "This I subsc(picntly, and with reason, attributed to the l)artial thawing of the crystal in some of the regions of the {vtmosphere through which it had passed in falling, in some one of which it had become thawed and again frozen, the frosted appearance being due to small granulated particles, which had subsequently accumulated upon thes{> portions whilst in a transition state. " I observed during this period a great variety of double crj'stals, the greater number falling on the last mornhig of the continued frost; they were about 0-.2 inch in diameter, and united by a slender and almost imijerccptible axis at right an- gles to the plane of oach ; the rays were either identical in posi- tion, or intermediate, in either ease exhibiting great com))lcxity t ! p iM AIM'KNDIV. ;5or) of cHrct. All that I oljsrrvcd (l()iil)lc iiii};lit he clasHcd iimoiij; tilt' lii;^lu'r order of crystals, and I do not rcoollcci an in- stance of a (lonl)le crystal beliif; closely allied to the primitive stellar fi<^nre. " It is remarkable that on the morniii}' of the thaw the crvs- tals \v(>re those ori} vol,. II. X Ml '!li ' !:i i W^ .-w-j .1^ !: l! %A \m\ AI'IM'.NDIX. Ixulics, and <1k' cliau^^'s tlu^y undcrfjo whilst under our oli-rcr- Viitioii, and wliicli may 1)(' considered a reversal of tlie laws by wliicli tliey Mere ori^nnally lornied, is an invest ij^ation full of interest in itself, and will |)roi)al)ly give collateral aid to otlier and liiglier hranclies of meteorological inquiry." '')i m "{. f' I ! F. (ii'lli / il 'I'lilih'x (if Mrh iiriilii(/l/. Ill llic coiniiilal idinil llir I'liliiiu iiiii' 'I'Mhlcs 1 liinc selected oiilv I'i'oin the I'cenrils the iKion, inidiiiLiiil. iiiiil iiieini I'eiuiiiiu's ol' tlie Haronietcr, llie iii;i\iiii:i. iiiiniii.;i, iiiul mean ol' riiei'inoiiieleis, \\w\ similar data on all oilier points. I'Viim llie aiilumn of \^'i'l to llie surniier of |s.");i the I'eeoi'ds used are those ol' the ( )l).-ervaloi'y on shm'e, and eoin|ii'i'-e limirlii tt/jurrr/i/ioi/Hy when nianiielie dislnrhanees did not call lor tlieiii more rre(|iientl_v. 'file matters reM-islered on shore coincided so neaiiv with those made l)_v (he lust inslruiiienls on iioard, read Iwo-honrlv, that I had no nns- L;i\ini;s as to the pcrlcction of the ohscrvalions, and conse(|ncnll\ of (he attcnlion of those enti-nstcd with their record. This was Ihe iiioic material in the second season; and havinu; a perlecl value resnltiiiL;' iVom a proof of lifleeii standard I hcrmomclcrs, mercurial from — lO" upwards, and spirit from — (l;'!.") upwards, the l)est, or that re|)rcscnlinji' the mean of all, was adopted as the standard ; the others (redneed to thirteen) were also registered, as before, in order to corrcci any irregularities, niulcr an inverted boat suspended al \\\v J)river boom-eiul. The whole of these thermometers, furnished partly iVoiii (lreenv\ieh by Mr. (ilaisher, and partly from the Kcw ( )l)ser\i,l(n'\ , have been safely n'tnrned to this c(Minlr\, and arc now \alualilc standards of comparison for vi'ry low temperaliires. o o O o EH 15^ ~? s-^rP-^^r --3 .■ ~'-^— '^ — — — — — — ~ — ■=— 0 — — .^o:o.3ii:ois-J -t (MCC >■ ^ :: 'S 'i^ > •+• »^- :c ■/. 5^ 7" c) if3 7 r^ 5 li. rt 7C Tl .^ r :r f rt '^i -.1 -■■• r'l '.I ^1 ^ 7 ^' ^t -^i ^=1 j) rs ~s 7 V 'it a nt 5S z; "A It Cl r § cJ CI ■3 ^li£?i^ " ^ ^i^ ^ ^ ?5 R t; f; t; .t; ?, f, ?5 ?; I . * .o '. x Cj w 1^. a ? 6 6 S x x ^z". 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''"; fi -^ !W-f-^-*««M^«t-rr'rtrrrortrcrt?:«?:>rt«M s ^ d 999999 9 9999 Ip 999999 Ip 9999 I'o i'-- 1'* i -i ^1 :ij r^ I- ^ i'- ^ c -— — i c t: r. * ^ r x ?:Kwr;?or)p:»Kcortr:r3?^ccr:??r?TirrtcwM 0 00 : -*>■■?? 1* > r: -M -1 -r r - -m r: — r. - ih i~ - r — t f? 0 . . If r-< X C T -• M -M i;? M TM^ CU-. 0 X : i i.' S is r» 1 iiiliSlr-if'l'Mliiili'liil lit a r. X Ol 71 71 fx c •M -* r c c r -1 c c - ri c -^ -c Q » o x '.o c r -^ x 9 9 ip -4 9 9 1^ 9 91 9 X 5: X i_^ ip oB 9 x x x x x x 0 5p -^ c; J: 31 (M M ri 'C 1 ^ ?i « -f m « I-. x r: c — ri rr- •* m X t^ X 0; c - ri r' -*• >r ■r 1^ r rr — -* ^ ^ r- r-' » .- ^ ^ » ^ 71 -M 71 ri 71 -?) Tl T*) 'M (N Cr n K = S o CO : CI o . . c^ : : ::i s 5 §'3 C iC 1- ?ifi?i .7-33 c: -* I-- C. a Oi W M CO y S ^1 I .M'l'EiNJJl\. lilVo G. OjMjmrtUiw Tables of Tiuniin-alnn; o/j/nbit'd froia .trciic Voyiiijrn, 18lii /fo 1853. Tlicsc Tables wen; coiniiili i! IVoiii (iociinicnts collected hy me (Vom priviitc sources, as well as from the jxiblished .lounials of Sir Eduanl I'arrv, on his voyaj^'cs witlini J^aiicastei' .Sound. In the course ol' my .Narrative it will ajipcar that 1 have ion- enter- tained the opinion connected with cliniatcs uhere thi' tcni|ieraturi' de- scends much l)ciou the t'rce/,in--|)oiiil, that there periodic dci)ressions or low temperatures occur preccdiuL;-, .i^, uell ,is follow iuo-, tlic com- iiiuuiy termed winter, and siulden elevations also at api)arcully undue seasons. Het'ore I had uu)re than ^uxpi-vd-d these matters to |i;ivc any ground for discussion, I had relied suHieiently on my own opinion, to tound my orders for sledge motions on tlu' ajiproachiiii;- spriui;- travel of 1853; and as re--arded other nmtters, as cutting- out, takini;- down iiousinus, etc., I had also formed distinct estimates of the (hites for oavryiiin; out these special |ioiuts of service. I then dclcrmincil to eonstruct these Tables, ami was peculiarly -: thus, bclw.vii ilic 1-1 and loih Noviaubcr,* :L>!l(h to 25th .Decemhev, and Idlh to ir.ih .Mardi. I expccled very li. cMcd mid * lureferee.cc to the pii!)li-lird Mclconilo^icai Tables for ale '..ili;,. basca Ml 18|;!-l, siliialnl in lm. .-)S |;i' .\., j umici' Xovembcr i-.'i'li, — fi-S'^ plus siii-iis pivcediiiL;- and foliouiiiu: |)(ci iiibcr l-.'ih 4i;-, ■ I III:, -22'ir; .January Ihli, I s-M, -.:!,s ; M,,vli '.Mh. - Hco . ,,,i acc(H'dnm- with those periods, or, a- I ima-iii,', depciidriii on ih,' full or chaii-v of the moon neare-t t.i tlm-r ,lat,<, hi -.oiiie yi^ai's the period may be deraii-vd b\ the date occui-riiu:' .11 , lavs earlier or later. ( (■ III 1 :' \. I I: ! I I' 336 APPENDIX. scvcrt' cold, sutlicic'iit to ^'iiidc ww. in .•securing' my slcdiir crcw^ t'nini exi)t)siin' 1o midiiL' severity of cliiiiiiti'. These matters may ajipear tri- \ ial, l)iit it must oceiir to all intelligent minds that (lie onerons duties of eonnnand or of respoiisiliilily, to the thinkinji' portion of the world, are somewhat relieved by the studies of science. Ilavinii' eon -triicted my 'i'ahle, 1 was not a little snrjirised to lind the pecnliar coincidence thronfihout the whole, ran^'c hetween IS]'.) jmd !S5 I-,— thirty-lie years. If the reader will run his juMicil throu?? r: 'r i^c". *:> r -* <-: -* C' 'M -*■ c -*■ — 1 '^ -* ■"^^ ? ri *:( c!r j" -*• i ^ii c "ii -* i*~ {-i-r ^ ;■: tt :■: t^ ih — ■ i (• -*■ ri ?^ i: —■ ci ';i •— -— < ■- ^ ■v — ' "^ J^ ^ — ^ ~ ^-^i"— ^_;^'"_x ■-— •^^__ • ^ X r-1 II It ccc = c= = =:.crc = = = ccccc = =:cc = =;c.ra:=coc = w— c .5 ' ?" t '^ ^ c: -*• i -- (it •+ I'n A i ct -^ — "ii-— i •— c^ci ^i r? 'ti ji t''-*n'-»« 6» ?? t'-t'"; ':i i'-- ^ 1 ^1^' 1 III 1 ccr.-^ = i=c=: = r = =:-rc: = c:--c = = =^3cr = c=:c=:co ^ M Sh f^' o ^ 1 'V ^ ^ z_ i 6 :c -i- r? Jc fj^ ^ c >./■? i i i- c^ .-':—':» i ci c> :o ■i*' ^ 0 • "5 CO '" <% t I 1 -.__, -._ -.-„-- — -. —-.^j^ — ,„^.— JD " • 1 t" 5 = 5 '- ^ ^ .^ .? r= 5 5 ■^ ^ — 7 u 5 " 't r? y (■;. / i :.— ^ - 7. 5 5 -< tS -*i - -*■ 5 St ^5 - ^ ^ t-.'il I'-J'fl X Jou- -^-^ i*:t C J: — c; — i ';! ^ > ri i- r^ ■* -^ i t^ — -*■ .« t'.ci -^ 0 p{ ^r^r" 1 , r-.-r;ic*':ir:t-:.';i^^ , , 1 1 t I 1 1 u.' '- 1' I o - "■ ^. - ' A. -* ji .s ui Si «t ss ^ •'- to :- = — '■ I r; -. . c i- T- -^ « cs i- -^ -^ t- — c i ^i i: -V IS ■^ f,>'. r% ^p-, — ct GiciF-':;*^! — r- <— — — r- 1 1 1 1 III 1 1 1 ' 1 I ' ^ tr; c C w to C C tn 11 «^ »r5 ifs C if5 '-; :r ifS C C C C: C lO t'l t- C C C C »■■: C — 10

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' x ~ -. 1 — . s r; —- r < - ^ '. i i - s i -^ — < !»; ? I'n « s> Jc osc's p-" «c«i— f-i -f -f t'-si ^; tssi ^ ~ >s = ;j c si '.s r^ z r^ ^ ^ ti C-D .r* -:" - 1^. 1 1 1 t 1 t 1 1 , 1 1 1 1 1 1 '1 '1 t ' V — — 4 9> - 1— I .5 -"- i; cr. i '■•- I'-x = X'S :'s SI i: tc 0 c s(^ -• —^^^ hisii x 1"- ("- --i Jc r > -^ > i: 2; •+ ■'- rt ^ni --c -.•: ■:': :': =: » #11111)11111 II I t I I I (I r^ ("-/«> Ci CO -T' •:*': -^ ('--;t -r -ii « i ("-Vo :*: -^ — >. 3» ct >. i* — tr ■^7 i'^ -^^ r.i ,— T-i >-^ 11 ''.i zi r.i --.i ni '.-7 yi z-t '.Q ''.I nt ni r.i '.>: '.c vi "A '.r y: v: r^ ni r* ':i I I I I I I I 1 1 ;CC:CCCi(5 0i«C; . ^ ,M-. ^ ^ f;] ,-■ CI •-) F-* r-i CI (?t CI ni •-• r-> '-"-I F« CO '71 Ct Ct ?: -H ,_ r-t 1— < III II C cO-f" o #111111)11 c? I— — • trt tn lO C ^C :■; 'O tc ~ 50 ~ c C C- ':T /^ '-5 -c i"; n^ /" ira .;? i-; r" o rj? :7J -* ( -(-CI C CO i" t -— -Z -r ~ •- ^ .n -.r •': if -^ it ~ -^ 'i i^rt ( - _ t - tr> n irr 11 v: —> ~ •"• 'r: f -»■ .r: .7 i^ i - — t ^ J^ -^ 4C -^ 'C I -^ — •;*• :C — r. 11 /- i-»— :'•: *^ 6 i CI ('-('-— •^r i'---^i'-.-^ -c r t*-— I'^A- -J- r; c'o /raci c: -it as i'^ I-. CI - ( Tt -H -M ^ r- CI 01 — i-i 01 — ' 01 01 01 CO M CO CO fii '-' ^ I I I I t I I t I I 1 II Oio : ' lO 10 c C C C — lO C If? C ire — c c c ; ; O 3 — C O C in — ^citj«coc( xrcojc /:-f^oi^~oit--*'«o-*?o^'^«ci-«con'^'3 CI r- 1 — 1 « CO CI ■— 1 CI ^ CI CI CI cinci CI 01 01 coco to ^ CO CI CI 01 II I I I I I I I I I t I I I I I I I ! I I I— ^lis CI CI F^ cc I'n -^ "^ -Tt -^ -■■; -^ 'ii ri I'rt ■^ 'i -* I' to '-b -^ -^ i r: ic ■ro ci r-"Cii— "r-^Hr-<-HCI-^r-ii— >— '^-1— ■CICirtCOCOCIr—r-ii-H I I I I > I ! I I I I I I I I I 1 I ! 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('-l'^*" ftl -*5 .'t -'o M .5i-I;.i|5-S5!?-iI:55 1 « « ^ !t CO iSSil : ; : 1 : ; : j;-5=ii ; i ; i ; : : il- ili .? ?. -^ 5 f 7 H = i .^S ^ 1 -^ -5 ?^ i^^5SH'55^S«i^:i^i i^^t!?i = ii;i.5ili=l5 5 3 C i Cl ;r C "K CI js iTi^ X C; CI CI X t^ » -* .T 3 (-:^-:t CI ;r i.t itr ri'T- 3^ 9 i i', r- 1'- -^ .■■: 4r T- . T i t"' X • -^ i^ s ii I'o ■^ "^ ^ -^ c I ■^' c 1 1'Ti -^ ?c .'-s (■- (■- c» q;5i'S&X^5S55f:5u4 > .C X C ?C « tC i^Cl I'S X t^M .(? C lO . (-i.c i--^ X X tc ;c •* ("rt « r: f ~ CI oi ^ ^ 3 i ^ 5 'i W i 'ii :i a if s i. 1 a 3 .5 »4 ? ^ -t -* »-•; -t trt »fr »f3 iO -^ -t — -^ .ra 1?: ^ Date. CO 1— t rl ■— 1 t— > (— 1 <— • 1— " t— 1 r— 1 (— CI Ct C) Ct CI Ci d CI CI CI « CO 4-^ ■ t^ 347 ACCOUNT OF THE FISH. RY SJR JOHN RICHAaDSON, C.B., F.R.S., HON. F.R.8.ED., ETC. ETC. ETC. The small collection of fish broufjht from Wellington Sound by Sir Edward Belcher is interesting- from the locality in which it was formed,— high in respec' of latitude, at a consi- derable distance from the Greenland shores, and still further removed from Behring's Straits. The families to which the s^iccimens beiong arc among the characteristic forms of the northern seas, and their members are remarkable for their strong generic physiognomy, and consequently for the diffi- eulty that naturalists experience in framing concise and dis- tinctive phrases for the discrimination of the species. The first group that we have to nccice, the Cottida, suffici- ently illustrate this remark. So strong is\ the family aspect of these small and familiar fish, that in the early progress of ichthyology the Cottus gobio and C. scorpius were supposed to be inhabitants of all the waters of the northern hemisphere. More minute observation has shown differences in specimens from distant localities ; and we arc now perhaps in danger of running into the opposite extreme, of unduly restricting the geographical ranges while we augment the numl)crs of the species. Fabricius, who until lately has been almost the sole authority for Greenland fish, describes three Cotti be- sides the (httus mtaphractus, which is the type of the genus 2 A .e i,^ % us COTTID.K. I' n I [I f'l i Aspidophorus of Laccpcdc and Ciuacr. Another Greenland species (Cottus porosus) is added in the 'Hi^toire des I'oissons' (t. viii.) ; and Professor Rciuliardt, of Copcnliagcn, notices two otiiers, Cottun micinaluit and Tnf//uj).i Phiyelii. Kroyer (Nat. Tidskr. N. lliikk.) subdivided the northern Cotti, making the Cottus tricvspis of Ileinhardt, identified Anth C. gobio of Fabri- cius, the type of his genus Phobetor, which wants vomerine teeth, while his gen as Iceltis lias palatine teeth, in addition to the dentition of the vomer and jaws. To it belong Cottus uncinatus and C. hicornis of Rciuliardt, and a Spitzbcrgen species, Icelus hamatus (Kroyer). Mr. Girard, in a Mono- graph published in the ' Smithsonian Contributions to Know- ledge, December, 1850,' has carried the dismemberment of Artedi's genus Cottus still further. To the marine species he has given the name of Acanthocottus, reserving the original generic appellation to the Cottus gob'm and its numerous allies, inhabitauts of fresh waters. The . v'v; i . 'an species of Cottus, as restricted by Mr. Girard, are, — 1. C. coynat'/s (Richardson), an inhabitant of Great Bear Lake, under the Arctic circle ; 2. C. Richardsonii (Agassiz), *aken on the northern coasts of Lake Superior; 3. C. Frankl'mii (Agassiz), frcciuenting the southern shores of the same great lake ; 4. C. Alvord'd (Girard) , Fort Gratiot, Lake Huron ; 5. C.formosus (Girard), Lake Ontario ; 6. C. yracilis (Heckel, or Uranidea quiescens of Dekay), New England and New York ; 7. C go/jioides (Girard), Lake Cham- plain ; 8. C. boleoides (Girard), Vermont; 9. C. Baird'ii (Gi- rard), Mahoning River, Ohio; 10. C. Wilsoui (Girard), eastern tributaries of the Ohio ; \\. C. viscosus (Haldeman), Eastern Pennsylvania and Maryland; 12. C. meridionalis (Girard), Jf-ines River, Virginia. I avail myself of this opportunity to remove a nominal spe- cies from the list of American fish. The Cottus hexucornis (Richardson) was found at the mouth of the Coppermine River in June, 1821, on Sir John Franklin's First Expedition; and a description of the recent fish was entered in my note-book at the time, but the specimens were lost during the calamitous ¥. M III If ' u ■U"' v»V^^_ COTTIDK. 34J) retreat of the Expedition frt)ni tlu; coast. In Avritinp; out the Natural History Report, after my return to En}i;hind, I niis- construcd my brief record of tlie nasal spines, and by cou. ider- iuff them to be similar to the cranial tul)ereles, made a ficti- tious discrepancy with the characters of the common Cottiis ijundricomis of the northern seas. On rcvisitini^ the same coasts in 1819 I ol)tained more si)eeimens and discovered my error; and, on a comparison of them with examples of the C. (jiiudricoruis in the British Museum, I found that, except in the f,'rcatcr size of the lu'xacoruis and the more fully develoijcd cranial tul)crcles, the species Avas the same. In the fish of Coronation Ciulf the tubercles are not larger than those re- presented in the portrait of i'u Iceland specimen published in (iaimui'd's Atlas. !■. COTTUS GLACIALIS (Richardson). Rnilii: \\\: (>; 1). 10/17; C. IT); .V. U ; V. l/.J; V. 17. l'i,ATK XXIV., llgs. 1, 2, 3, iiiit. size; lig. \, magnilicd. Description. The general aspect of this species av aoaclies that of Cottim (/o/no of England, and is dissimilar to that of C. scurjiio. fh'ud broad and rather depressed, with an obtuse snout : its length is contained thrice aiul nearly a half in the total length of the fish, while its breadth at the occiput rather exceeds its heigiit there. In profile, the back descends from the hind head without any gibbous rising at the first dorsal, such as that Avhich characterizes V. porosns (C. et V. viii. p. -M)8). Uody tapering, and tail at the setting on of the caudal slender. Armature: — Nasal spines moderately large, pungent. Super- orbital ridges elevated and even, including a smooth furrow between them, and of their distal corners forming the anterior pair of small cranial tubercles. Immediately behiiul these tubercles rise another pair of ridges, scarcely so prominent, bounding a less hollow space and terminating in the posterior pair of still smaller tubercles. These four tubercles have little ft.,| 'I i i I ^1 t!' ;: I :i: 350 COTTID/E. prominence, being nnicti enveloped in the skin, and arc nci« tlicr rough nor spinous: their plan is represented in Plate il. fig. a. Prcoperculum emitting the principal spine from the point where it is supported by the smooth rib of the second subor- bitar. This spine is subulate and acute, rises above the axis of the fish at an angle of 45°, and does not reach to the edge of the gill-cover ; from its base a shorter spine inclines tiightly below the axis, und the proximal end of the prcoperculum tapers so as to form a third small and bluntish spine, w'mcIi stands just behind the angle of the lower jaw and has an in- clination forwards and downwards; it is enveloped in loose integument. TI-.tc are no other prominent points on the prc- operculum. The bony operculum consists of a horizontal narrow piece or rib that tapers into a spine, whose point docs not attain the membranous edge of tht gill-cover, and of a sleudcr descending limb, which joins a corresponding process of the subopcrculum splintwisc. Between the disc of the sub- opcrculum and the main limb of the operculum there is a tri- angidar fleshy space, and just behind the inferior prcopcrcuhir spine the subopcrculum emits a small pinigent spine, directed downwards.* A moderate-sized suprascapular spine lies \)a.- rallcl to the opercular one and immediately over it, complet- ing the armature of the head. The fins are rather large ; their position may be ascertained by referring to fig. 1, wherein they are represented fully ex- tended. All the rays of the anal and second dorsal are jointed. Anus placed under the third ray of the second dorsal. Lateral line constructed, as in C. porosus, of a series of short cutaneous tubes, elevated above the skin, open at the * M. Yalencieiines describes a spine as occupying nearly this posi- tion in C. porosus, but, as bilonging to the operculum. " L'opercule donne, comme ii I'ordinauc, unc epine de son angle superieur ; clle est courte et ne depusse pas Ic bord mcmbraiu^ux ; mais il en donuo unc autre trcs-pointue, de son angle iniericiu' pres de sous-opercule." — C. rt V. viii. p. 4'J9. roTTID.K. 361 rnd, and having above and below them smaller pores, seem- iiigly coiineeted with the main lino 1)y tubnlar branchlets. The inferior row of marks in fij,'. 2 represent short entaneons folds, corresponding to the; points of the ribs. There arc no seales nor bony plates (m any parts of Ihc skin. The hotly is clouded, as represented in the figure, with bars on the fins ; and there arc many small white spots, just pcr- eeptibh; to the naked eye, scattered over the sides. A lens shows th This fish was taken in Northumberland Sound, in hit. 7(f 53' N., in nine fathoms water, on a gravelly bottom, the tem- perature of the air being at the time of captm-e 28° Fahr. I have endeavoured to obtain specimens of the Cottiis polariit of Sabine, discovered in abundance on the shores of North Georgia in pools of water left by the ebbing tide ; but tlu; search that was instituted, at my request, in the Museum of the Zoological Society and in the British Musemu was without success. It appears however to be sufficiently characterized as distinct from C. ylaciulis by the small nund)er of rays in the dorsals {0/-13), and the five rays in the ventrals, though in other respects there is no marked discrepancy between Colonel Sabine's description and the above of f/laciu/ls. In many particulars C. porosus of M. V^aleneienncs, brought from Davis's Straits, answers to our fish, and but for the spine in the second dorsal, the inferior opercular spine, and especially the gibbous back particularized in his description, I should have considered them to be one species. 1 have seen neither figure nor specimen of C. porosus. 1 1 ■\i fr ' .t''-^ If '' :ir)2 COTTID.F,. PT lOBETOU TttlCUSPIS (Kroyci). (Ifiiiis I'UOBETOU, Kroycr, Nnturliistonak TidHkrift lulf^ivct llciirik Kroyi'i", Kjol)en!uivii, ISH—lo. {Caret deiilifmii roiiicrhiis, M'terui/niu Colli niinile.) (htliis tjobio, Fabricius, Fumui Gru'iilaiulicn, No. 115, p. 159, an. 1780. CulliiH Iricitspin, lleiiiliardt, Miis. lU'g., ct Grnnh, lleisc Ostk. (Iroiil., 1833, p. lyi; Kcinharclt, Ik-t Koiigcli^r Daiiskc Viiltmskahcnus Hclskabs, Kjiibciiliavii, p. 52, An. iS;J2, tt Ichtliyol()^;isk(' liiihMi;- til (Ion Griinlaudskc Fauna at" J. Jk-inlmrdt, Kjiibcnliavn, An. 1837, No. 3, p. 35. PlioliL'lor IricHspk, Kroycr, nt .supra cil. ; Imports on Iclitliyol. For lS43-tl, Hay Soc, pul). 1.847, p. 555. ColliiH Fuhr'tcii, Uirard, Monoj^rapli in Smithsonian Contrib., Dec. 1 851, No. 13, p. 59. Trirnx/tin, Gainiard, Voy. cii Scandinavie, Iclith. par Kroyi-r, pi. iv. (No U'ttcr-press.) Radii: Br. (5-6; 1). 11/-15; C Uf ; A. 17; V. 1/3; P. 19,* Plate XXIII., %. 1— !•, nat. size. The Danish naturalists, who have the best means of know- ing the fish described by Fabrieins, have identified his //o/jio with the ti'iciisjds of Professor Reinhardt. I have not how- ever been able to obtain a detailed aecount of the species l)y any late writer, the above citations being in general brief remarks on the description in the ' Fauna Grcculandica,' said by them to be imperfect. This description generally cor- responds M'ith our fish, but there are some pai'ts of it which would have led me to consider the Greenland one a diflerent species, were it not for Kroyer's figure above quoted, which, though evidently a bad drawing, is yet so like our Plate I. in essential characters, that it would be unsafe to name them as distinct species. The doubts raised by the consideration of Fabricius's accotmt anse first from his applying the word ha- * In the Fainia (ira-nland. the numbers are; H. 0; D. 10/-17; C. 12 ; A. 18 ; V. 3 ; V. 17 ; imd in Kroyer's Hgure, 1). ll/-l(i ; C. 11 ; A. IS. J ,y»*^ ei I 411 IV ^* I ( oTiiD.i;. 353 matus to the |)r('()|)cri;iilar Mpiiu', which is not hooked, thouf,'h it limy 1)0 Huid to be bailM'd, like iiu Kskinx^ fish iii},'- hook or f'sli-Hpcar ; Hccondly, as to tlic extent to which the Ncabrons osseous scales are distributed. Aecordin;^ to him they t'orm the lateral line, or run along it, and in some individuals exist also under the pectorals and behiiul the eyes. In our speci- lueii these scales cover the top of tli(! head find nape, and spread les.t densely to the ^ill-cover: but tlu; lateral line is be- set by none, except just at its cotninencemcnt. It is most likely u very variable character, depending,' partly or wholly on sex and season. Thirdly, he describes the first dorsal and pectorals as black, wilii pale lines ; whereas in our fish the tine lines which cross the rays of these fins are black, the nieni- hrane being pab. The figure in the ' \oyage en Scandiua- vie' shows no scabrous scales at all, l)ut the |)reopercular spine corresponds with our Plate, as does also the distribution of the dark parts of the body, the fins however being darker. As Kroyer could compare Gainiard's Iceland specimens with the (Jreenland ones in the Koyal Museum of Copenhagen, we must consider their identity as established witli the one we have figured, and which was captured in Hudson's Buy. The si)ecies is therefore spread widely through the northern seas, and is very plentiful at Spitzbergen, as well as on the Circeu- land coasts. , Its generic name of Phohetor {(f>ol3r}Tpov, ijiiod mctim incutit) has reference to the dread that fishermen entertain of wounds from its spines. It wants the vomerine teeth of CottKs, as well as the palatine ones of Icelmt, having only the prcmaxil- lary and mandibular ones, and it has no opercular spine. The size likewise of its pectorals and of its fins generally is greater than is usual among the Cotli. Descrijtfioit. General aspect, much like that of Cottus ncorphis or C. bu- bal'is, with lively colours, larger fins, rather more protractile jaws, and a somewhat smaller mouth. Length of the head less than the breadth at the preopercula, and eciualling u third ir !■' ■ \ II I' I; If ■r"*' ^ymmmmB^ PHI i\ ! '! I \\ 354 COTTlD.i:. of the total length of the fisli, caudal incliuU'd. The greatest height of tlic head is fully one-third less than its breadth ; that part of the fish may be deseriiicd therefore .as depressed, and when viewed from above, the outline of the entire head is broadly ovate, while the body tajiers regularly to the slender tail (fig. 2). In profile, though the preniaxillaries a|)pear, from their slen- derness and greater protrusion, more aeute than is usual in the Cotti, the face from the eyes forward is ol)tuse : the eurvc of the dorsal line; however is moderate and regular, its sunmiit being uikUi" the first dorsal, and the descent to the orbits gentle. Armature of the head. — Nasal spines acute, eonspieuous. The strongest and most j^ culiar spine arises from the angle of the preoperculum, Avhcrc that bone is supported by the un- armed, smooth second suborbitar; it taijcrs and is subulate, and acute at the tip, which does not quite reach the margin of the giU membrane. Two small, acute snags, rise vertically from its upper side, the distal one being the largest of the two. Three short but conspicuous spinous points, standing at equtJ distances, belong to the lower limb of the preoperculum, two of them, directed downwards, being acute, and the third, which is concave, and forms the proximal apex of the bone, tending forwards ; two conspicuous pores perforate the upper limb of the preoperculum, as re])rcsented in figure 2. The operculum differs from that of the Cotti in wanting both ib and spine, its apex being a thin obtuse plate of bone, covu'ed by and edged in the recent fish with membrane. The subopercidum has however, as in many Cotti, a small spine pointing down- wards from its lower angle, and the distal end of the inter- operculum emits a still smaller spine, directed towards the tail, across the oubopcrcular one. I have not noticed this iu- teropcrcular spine in any of the Cotti. The suprascapiUar i' unarmed, though the blunt angle of the bone may be detectcu on searching, but the coracoid emits a minute spine from its distal edge above the pectoral tin. Mo orl)ital ridges exist, their usual site in the Cotti being filled in this fish by the COTTID.E. 355 5 membrane of tlu; eyes, but the space between the orbits is as usual concave. The postqrbital tubercle on each side is small but conspicuous, and the occipital pair also exist, thou-h they are not so isolated from the surroundiug parts. AH the four are finely furrowed, and through a lens appear cancellated, but are scarcely rough to the touch. The ridges connecting these tubercles are low, and enclose a slightly concave space, which, with the ridges themselves, is thickly covered by sea' brous bony plates. Similar plates of different sizes exist on the gill-covers, temples, nape, and forepart of the back, as represented in figure 2 : there is also a row of smaller ones between the second dorsal and lateral line. The belly is soft and smooth throughout. The lateral line is composed of a scries of short, soft, raised tubes, and runs along the upper third of the back until it comes opposite to the last rays of the second dorsal and anal, when it makes a short deflection, and is continued througli the middle of the remainder of the tail. Fins in general large. The pectoral has much spread, an obliquely oval form when expanded, and reaches over the an- terior third of the anal. From the seventh downwards the rays shorten rapidly, the lowest one having only about a sixth of the length of the longest ones. The ///•*•/ dorsal, conmienc- mg over the middle of the operculum, has its last ray over the anus : a short space divides it from the second dorsal, which is slightly higher, and has no spinous ray. The anal is also des- titute of a spine, has shorter rays than the second dorsal, and goes a little nearer to the caudal. The spread of the caudal, as m the Cotti, is not great, though its rays are tolerably long! Three longish unbranched but jointed rays, and a spine of half their length, constitute the ventrals, whose tips go a little past the anus. The lively colours of the recent fish have perished in the specimen after two years' maceration in spirits. The under surfaces of the head, body, and tail, are milk-white. We are indebted for the specimen to Dr. Rae, who caught it in the northern part of Hudson's Bay. I, 'i'-: •I,,, mm 350 COTTID/E. I '111 Dimertsions. Total length of fish, caudal included 5 00 inches. Lenfi;tli from symphysis of premaxillarics to upper angle ) ot gdl-opening ) Length from symphysis to tip of great preo))ereular spine ] ^0 Length from symphysis to anus ^'TjI Length of pectorals r5() Length of ventrals TU) Length of caudal U"84 GASTEllOSTEUS INSCULPTUS. {Jti vark'tas, an species propria ?) liadii: V.V. ;5-3; 1). 1/-1/-1/9; A. 1/8 ; C. 12^; P. 11 ; V. 1/1-1/1. Plate XXV., tig. 1, nat. size; fig. 2 and 3, magnified. Tlic three- spilled Sticklebacks arc generally spread over the uorthern hemisphere, hcing inhabitants of both tlie fresh and salt Avaters. On a cursory inspection it might appear to be a single species that is thus widely distributed, so Mell is the general aspect preserved in even distant localities ; but Cuvicr has named several forms as distinct, separating rirst one in which the posterior side scales are deficient, and secondly an- other Avith shorter spines. He has also described as peculiar two American species, which difl'er but slightly from their Eu- ropean representatives, and a minute comparison of specimens taken in places much less remote from each other, might dis- cover differences sufficient greatly to multiply these species or varieties. Sir Edward Belcher has brought home a single spe- cimen of that form, which possesses the complete number of side-plates and dorsal spines of the usual length, but which lias a decidedly deeper body than its English representative : he obtained it in deep Avater in Northumberland Sound, at a distance from any fresh-water streams. Description. Having through the kindness of Dr. Baikie procured seven or eight threc-spined Gusterostei from the Orkneys, some of them even larger than the Northumberland Sound one, I selected " I'll II 11'- lii: U lii !■!> jitii i' •I'l 11 ■I GOnilD.K. 357 for comparison one of exactly the same length witli the latter, and placinj,' tlicni side by side, the greater deiith of the Arctic fish was very apparent, hnt the only other diftcrenccs I conld detect consisted in the scidptnring of the opercular pieces and hony plates. In the Orkney fish the opercular hones are rayed by fine furrows or rows of dots, depressed below a smooth, sil- very surface, and their edges arc nearly smooth. In the North- umberland Sound one, the rays are more strongly marked, and the preoperculum especially is ribbed with rough i)oints, which, under a lens, give a finely denticulated edge to that bone, and also to the check plate. The nacry plate at the base of the pectoral is the same in all. On the pelvic bones and spines the scidpturing is much coarser in the Arctic fish, but the ir(;e dorsal spines and fins differ little. One of the Orkney sped- mens has the tip of the second dorsal spine more toothed, as well as dilated by two tliin edges ; but the other specimens from the same locality have merely subulate tips to that spine. The Orkney and Hampshire specimens have one pectoral ray fewer. Some minute diflFerences may be detected in the forms of the dorsal plates, which it would be difiicult to make clear by a verbal description, for which I have therefore substituted a figure enlarged to twice the linear dimensions of the specimen, Hampshire specimens appear smoother than the Orkney one, but I have not been able to obtain any of equal size for comparison. Dimensions. Totallength from tip of lower jaw to tip of camlal . . :M0 indies. From tip of iiiamlil)lo to fiill-opcniiis ^'^^ From tip of maudibli! to anus ''•" Height of body at the vcntvals ' ' ' "''' w 1. : .( !-^ GUNNELLUS FASCIATUS (Bloeh, suh Bleimio). BJcmiinsfaHcialii'^, Bloeli, ydm., p. 1 <•.'), i-t pi. '-M, tij?. I. BlenniKS (junneUux, Fabricius, Famia Gra-nl., p. U9. (lu>uu'llusfascir than the head, and both back and belly are rounded anterior to the vent, the compression increasing rapidly in the tail. Scales very small, routul, so dee|)ly imbedded as not to be readily seen, but numerous on the body, and more crowded on the tail. Lnk-rul liiw straij^ht, runninjj; at nii I 'Mi ! t 't I i Goiuin.K. 361 conspictiouH tlu! dorsal and anal nro received into grooves, and when K.wered into tliem are invisible. Owing to tlio elastieity of the menil)rane these fins are not easily kept ex- tended unless earefnily pinned ont, and on that aeeount the rays are not readily reckoned. l''ron» that cause, the artist has represented too lew rays in the dorsal of fij;. 1, a niistiiko having been made in the ennnierntion. All the dorsal rays are spinous, the anterior ones l)ein^ graduated, — and the first anal ray is simple, aiul either spinous or with obsolete joints. Both fins terminate near the caudal, but are scarcely Joiiuul to its base. The caudal has a slight tendcjucy to the rhondjoidal form, with the upper and under coriu-rs rounded off. Pectoral large, but falling more than its own length short of the arms. Vcntrals small, slender, and pointed, composed of a short spine and two jointed rays, visible (')U)ugh, with two others, very slender and shoi-ter, looking like a single ray fissured to the base. All lie side by side, enveloped in a thiekish white skin, Avithout any intervening extensible membrane. Markinys. — Head and body mottled with a row of about twelve larger, irregular marks along the middle of the side, touching or passing over the lateral line : a series of oblicpie, faint, and ill-defined bars on the generally pale ground of the dorsal ; better defined cross bars on the pectoral ; anal pale ; caudal obscurely barred. There are no traces of lines parallel to the lateral line, such as Professor Rcinhardt mentions in his notice of Clinns unimaeulatus. The want of eyed spots in the dorsal, and the lateral line continued to the caudal, distin- guishes nubilus at first sight from G. jmnctatus : how far it differs from M. Pylaie's Newfoundland Gunnellus, mentioned in the ' Histoire des Poissons,' I am unable to say from the briefness of the notice. Dimeimioihs. Total length, coudal incliulrd 5*60 inclies. From tip of maxillarv symphysis to point of gill-flap . 0'82 From tip of maxillary symphysis to anus 215 Height of head at the gill-plates 0-4'2 Width there 032 VOL. FI. C B 'n •i,i I , !J •5 l(\ '.I ^lil M,l t, ! I'll I- I ' ;U)2 (ioiuiD.i;. irci,<,'lit at IIk' middlf ofllic liclly O-f)! inrli.'s. Thickiifss O-'l) Lt'ii}jtli of ciiudiil !>■,")() ijciifltli of pcctoriils 0()(> Ijfiij^tli of veil! nils O'M LYCODES MUCOSUS (Ricliardsoii). Gniits LvcoDEs, Keiiiliiirdt ; Th. Avkw8»;? {/iipo nimi/is). Li/cutlcn 111 iiconiis : IM.ATF. XXVI., li^. 1-5, iiat. size. Jiadii: l?r. (l-C) ; IV 81.; ('. 10; A. ^ . li U^ f i P - h V 4 < I' Is n i; i; I ! if '' it. w i ';.vi i^/:* J 'U %\ >nM i /^^J'S^rii-^'' Iwffi^;^ ■■;. «•»■ ■■.. GOBIID.E. 308 of D :. Gray search has hecu made both in the British Mu- seum and in the collections of t!ie Zoohigical Society for th(! specimens of this fisli, lint unfortunately in vain. The notices of Blennhis polaris given in the subjoined foot-note s'' nv that it can scarcely be the same species with our vincosm, the markings of the two being very distinct. Description u/a female specimt'ii of 1j. wnKosns. In general appearance this fish has a considerable resem- blance to the Zoarces vivipariis, especially v.!' ii !../th are (mi- vcloped in the thick mucus which they thr .v out copiously in dying. The head constitutes very nearly one-fourth of the total length of the fish, and its breadth just behind the eyes, where it is greatest, exceeds its height there by about one- third. The back equals the head in breadth, and the belly is more or less tumid according to its contents ; but from the vent to the tip of the tail the compression is such that the distal half of the fish resembles the point of a straight sword. The arms is exactly in the middle of the total length, its bor- der is tumid, and a small papilla projects from behind it. Mandible shorter than the upper jaw. Orifice of the mouth tolerably large, but the cleft does not extend so far as the eye. A skinny lip borders the upper jaw, being attached to the premaxillaries. The mandibular lip is d( veloped into a lolie on each side, but is wanting at the symphysis. A row of su- bulate teeth exists on the premaxillaries, riandible, and pala- tines : the row is double in front of the upper and lower jaw s, and there is a round cluster on the vomer. The numbers and positions of the teeth pvc shown in figs, 4 and 5. M enclosed in a lax skin ; iippev jaw considerably longer tlu>n the under one, teeth conspicuous to the naked eye ; no scales were detected by the microscope. Colour, a yellowish groiuid, lifihter on the belly, with eleven large saddle-shaped markings across the baciv, the middle; of these markings being nuich lighter than their edges, the whole back and sides marbh'd. No spots on the dorsal tin similar to those of Blevmiia ocdlatioi. •2 H .:2 Wll f U I i I' 't U, , t I'i t I ; t Ml m ! ii i ;U)4 (ioiiiin.K. The roof of the mouth is furnished with aeute longitudiual l-'laits of membrane, whose edges an; set with soft, round papillic. The upper and lower pharyngeals arc armed with brush-like teeth, curved backwards, and the rakers of the br.'tuchial arches arc round, sessile knobs, in two rows on each arch, also rough with minute teeth. Lateral nostril on each side, forming a tubular projection close to the prcmaxillary : the mesial one is an open orifice like a pon;. (See fig. 2) Tliere arc many small mucous pores round the nostrils and on the head and fo*c parts of the body, some of which are represented in the same figure. Eyes placed nearer to the end of the snout than to tlu gill-opening, and so high as to encroach on the profile of the face. Gill- opening a ^•ertical lateral slit ; the membrane of the throat being continuous with that of the belly without any transverse fold or flap of the brauchiostegous memln'ane. A row of open pores marks the limbs of the mandible. (See fig. 3.) The rudimentary veutrals are attached to the os hyoides be- tween the lower angles of the gill-openings. The lateral line, composed of open pores, descends from the suprascapular region behind the pectoral, keeping while in the ventral region nearly in the middle of the height, but running lower from the anus backwards ; it cannot be traced quite to the middle point between the anus and the tip of the tail. There are no scales. To be certain on this point, I care- fully skinned a specimen of which I purposed to prepare the skeleton, and having dried the skin on glass, examined it with the microscope, without discovering any trace of a scale. This character alone is sufficient to distinguish it from the three members of the gcims made known by Professor lleinliardt. It may therefore prove to be the type of a distinct division of the genus to which the Bleimius polaris of Sabine, should it hereafter be rediscovered, may be found to belong. Fins. — The pectorals when fully spread out have a broadly ovate form, approaching to the orbicular : their rays are branched at the tips. Owing to the thickness of the rather GOBIID.fC. 865 r. 3.) lax skin, tie rays of none of the fins can be accurately enu- merated, but the numbers given at the beginning of this article were taken from the skeleton of a larger specimen than the one we have figured. The vertical fins unite at the point of the tail without any break or depression, such as that which the dorsal of Zoarces viviparvs cxhil)its posteriorly, and all the rays are articulated. They number in the aggregate 158, and the major part of the dorsal and anal ones arc simple at the bottom and split at the tips, the divisions lying in close contact; towards the caudal the tips open a little, and the last rays are (livided to the base ; the caudal rays are smaller and more divided, vhe ten rays enumerated as caudal ones arc those only which are attached to the two triangular inter- spinous bones, which do not tcrnnnatc the spinal column evenly, but lie beneath its tip. Reirdiardt describes the ven- trals of nis sjiccics as formed of four rays ; Init on a careful examination with the microscope I can detect only tln-ce toru- lose, jointed, tapering rays of equal length, with a minute cartilaginous support to tiie inner or anterior of the three. Tn preparing the skeleton, this part of tlie fish was unfortu- nately injured, but a dissection of one of the vcntrals of the remaining specimen enablrd mc to ascertain its structure. When enveloped in the skin, the vcntrals have considcral)lc elasticity, and hence they may readily be confounded with spines. Colour. —^o memorandum was furnished to mc of the tints of colour of the recent fish. Tlie specimen that the figure was executed from was in a perfect coiidition, and docs not appear as if any of its markings have been obliterated. It was probably put into spirits wliilc yet alive, as its licad was thrown back, as if it had died convulsed, and its body was co- vered by a thick layer of mucus. After twelve months' ma- ceration in spirits the dark upper parts of tlie fish have a deep clove-brown colour, becoming almost black where it touches the white marks. The white extends over the lips, the under surface of the head, base of the pectoral, over the belly, and, with interruptions, along the base of much of the anal fin. IS n i it Fl; 1 il il ; i^ \i 1'"' 36() liOBllD.*;. There is a small white spot on each suprascapular, one on the pectoral, and five cross bars, irregular and interrupted, on the dorsal and sides, with a spot or two on the interspaces. These white marks are not alike on both sides of the fish, and arc likely therefore to vary considerably in different individuals. Osteoloyy. The larger specimen, whose skeleton has furnished the fol- lowing particulars, was blanched, probably from having lain exposed on the ice or beach, but some markings similar to those described above could be made out. The vertebrie are in the whole column 92, of which 26 are abdominal. The parapophyses of the three next the cra- nium arc not developed, but are conspicuous enough in the others, though short throughout the abdomen ; they lengthen much in the caudals, and bend down to form the haemal spines. The ribs, round and slender, are not long, and there is a short subulate appcmlage springing from the end of each parapophysis. The neural and hicmal spines are longest at the beginning of the anal, and sliorten gradually as they ap- proach the tip of tliL tad. Skull perfectly fiat on the top, without crests, but with some irregidar depressions on the supratemporal and suprascapular angles. Opercular pieces thin and unarmed ; infra orbitars indistinct and membranous ; branchiostegous rays round, tapering and curved, and rather long. Dimeiisions. Spec. 1. Spec. 2. Length from premaxillary symphysis to edge of gill- opening 1'7 in. 3'-t in. Lengtii from ditto to vent 3'5 .5'5 Length from vent to tip of caudal 3*5 .55 Totallength 7-0 WO Height of head at the nape 0'8 1"0 Height of body at micklle i)f pectorals 1-2 1'5 lireadth of head at the preopercula I'l Length of pectorals 10 I -.5 1-5 i ' m w ' 1 ■f'i ii'i li 'it - t-c' •'M'i y i^ \i'\ wmmm wm wm wm m ANACANTHINI. 367 This fish was obtained in Northumberland Sound. It feeds on small crustaceans, fragments of many being fouiul in its stomach. Alimentanj Canal. — Coats of the part which descends from the pharynx for about an inch and a quarter thick and strong, the lining membrane being disposed in acute longitudinal folds studded with coarse villi. The rest of the stomach is of greater diameter, bends on one side on the descending branch and bulges largely on the other, producing an obtuse sac. The l)ylorus is much contracted, aiul is surrounded interiorly by a narrow fold, acting as a valve against the r(;gurgitation of the contents of the intestine. Immediately beneath it arc the orifices of two small, wide and short, almost globular, caica, one on each side. The coats of the renuiinder of the intestine are delicate, with a villous interior membrane. This portion of the canal makes two doublings. Posterior to its anal ex- tremity is the urinary bladder, which has strong coats, and is about three-quarters of an inch long. Adjoining to it is the ovary, containing many ova. The specimens Avcre procured in Northumberlaiul Sound, as were all the others of Sir Edward Belcher's collection. GYMNELIS VIRIDIS (Rcinhardt). Ordo .■/i/ncntil/iiui, Miillcr. Opliidiuiii, riride, Fahricius, Fauna Grcuulaud., p. lH, No. 'J'J; Uoss (8ir .las.), Suppl. Parry's Tliinl. Voya-,as j). 110. Gymiii'lis ch-idk, llciuhardt, Iditli. Biilra^' til den (jlronlaiid. Fauna, Kj()l)('nliavn, 1837, No. 53, p. 49. Idem, Ecrctniiig-en an dot koiigl. Videnskabenics Sclskabs Forliandlinger, 1830 og 1833. RaiUi: Er. (J-li ; ]). A. C. uuitfe 10-t- : I'. 13. Pl.vtk XXIX., iiat. size. In the 'Regne Animal,' Cuvier inlbrms us that he was unac(|uainted with the Ophidium viride of Fabricius, but that he believed it to be alhed to the eels. The erroneousness of this opinion was pointed out by Professor Reinhardt, who had y ! pp n fl , I m ii I • ^! 3(iS ANACANTIIIM. access to many Greenland examples of the fish, and a cursory examination is sufficient to sliow tliat it has neither the eoales- ccnt parts ofthc nasal vcrtel)ra, which is one characteristic of the eels, nor their peculiar branchiostegous rays. In very many par- ticulars of its structure Gymnetis approaches closely to Lycodes or Zoarces, hut the (iernuui i\aturalists place it in Miiller's order of Anacanthim. In the works ai)ovc quoted Professor Keinhardt promises to give, in a future communication, a de- tailed acc(nuit ofthc genus and species; but if he has executed his design. I have not been able to find the work in our Lon- don libraries. In the absence of such details and of authentic examples of tin; Greenland fish for comparison, I cannot be certain of the specific identity of Sir Kdward IJclcher's speci- men, and there is some doubt even as to the number of its fin- rays, ^rhese cannot be accurately counted through the thick integument, and I designed to uuike a skeleton of the si)cci- nien after it had been drawn ; but though the external form of the fish was well preserved by immersion in spirits, the thick mucus which covers the skin had prevented the fluid from ar- resting the progress of decay in the interior ; whence it fol- lowed, that after a brief nuiceration in water, the whole fell to pieces and the rays split up, so that an accurate enumeration Avas impossible. The numbers of those in the three vertical fins are however a pretty close approximation. Ileirdiardt reckons ninety-seven in the dorsal to the point of the tail, and seventy-one in the anal, tlic rays of the caudal being divided between these numbers, which added together make 168, or four more tlian I was able to reckon in Sir Edward Belcher's specimen. The Opiddium Fairii of Sir James Ross must be very unlike vlnde, in having a much larger head, whose length is equal to one-third of that of the body, and in the great size of the pec- toral f! is, which when spread out extend beyond the vent and completely cover the whole of the belly and throat. The ver- tical fins also have nnich fewer rays, being only fifty on the dorsal side to the point of the tail, and forty-five on the anal side. Indeed the dissimilarity is enough to raise a doubt even : II AN AC A NTH IN I. {jC9 in regard to the genus. I have tried in vain to find a speci- men of it ill our public niusoums. Desrnption of G. viridis. Form. — Mucli like that of an eel. Head roundish ; body 8li},'htly compressed, its width beinj? little less than its height, and the back narrower than the bellv, which is tumid ; be- yond the anus the eomijression gradually incrcaaes, so that the tail resembles the blade of an aeute-pointed two-edged sword. The length of the head is contained five times and a half in the total length of the fish. Nostrils piercing the side of the snout close to the premaxillary, one of each pair being shortly tubular. Mouth at the extremity of the head, but the man- dible is just perceptibly longer than the premaxillary. A sin- gle row of small tvi'tli exists on both these bones, the rows being doubled irregularly close to the symphyses above and below. There is also a row of minute palatine teeth, but none on the vomer. The teeth arc short and slender, but not very acute, and are not crowded except at the symphyses; they number about eighteen on each premaxillary and limb of the mandible, and about half as many on each palatine. Eyes small, very much nearer to the tip of the snout than to the gill-opening, and separated from each other by a narrow smooth space, which appears depressed, owing to the eyeballs swelling above the profile of the forehead. No spinous points exist on the head. Gill-open in ffs small, and descending no lower than to the upper ray of the pectorals. A small triangular apex of the gill-fiap projecting across the opening cuts oft', towards the temples, a rounded portion, as may be noticed in Plate VII. fig. 1, and better as to form in Plate VIII. The skin connect- ing the limbs of the mandible and covering the branchio- stegous rays is evenly continuous with that of the belly, with- out forming any transverse fold or free edge between the gill-openings, such as exists in Gunin-Uus. Branchiosteyous rays six, round, tapering and curved, pretty large and readily seen. i'l !'li ■:te { ■ ''7 I" III 1 , It : ■ i V 'il \m .170 ANACANTUIM. Skin Hcnlcloss, Hiuooth to tlic tuucit, uutl very loosely uttiielied to the imiscles. When narrowly iuspeeted it exliibits a vast nmnber of very fhie vertical, ronj^h-looking lines, with smooth intermediate spaces, that are scarcely discernible by the mias- sisted cyo. These lines appear to be minute folds due to the action of subcutaneous muscles, for no traces of them appear in the stretched skin when plac(>d uiidi-r a microscope : the nut^rnificd integuments appear tluni to be studded throughout with innumeral)le small, round, glandular l)odies. The lakral line runs below the middle height of the body' to which it descends gradually from the suprascapulars, and is e()n»])()sed of distaui minute, open pores, which disappear a little beyond the anus. Fins. — Small skiiuiy lobes surmount the tips of the anal rays, and similar though less conspicuous ones terminate the lower rays of the pectorals ; and they also exist, though more indistinctly and snudler, on the dorsal. The rays of the pec- torals are branched at the tips; those of the dorsal are fissured, the first one alone being simple, taper, ami shorter than the following ones, without evident joints. The first three anal rays arc small, but, like all the rest, distinctly jointed. At the extremity of the spinal column the short slender rays which represent the caudal are curved down, so as to form, as it were, the \nr.t anal rays. Whether this peculiar structure belong to the species, or is au accidental variety, or merely the result of injury, 1 cannot determine, having seen only one specimen. In the following fish, considered to be a variety by Kroyer, the rays at the extremity of the tail are straight. The skull is moderately convex transversely, without promi- nent ridges, and increases in transverse diameter towards the occiput, which is shelving. There are twenty-two abdominal vertebra; and seventy-one caudal ones. The ribs are very small, being shorter as well as much more slender than the parapo- physes. Dimensions. Total k'ligth G'7 inches. I''r()iu prciiuixillary sjiuj)li_vsis to aims •».r, vmsneiv m V H III "1 V^P 'U i :i I >lM ■!* i|H I .l[ 'n l '., ANACANTHINl. Ijciigtii of head to f^ill-opuuiiiif Width of ditto 371 1 "i iiicliL's. or) 2 GYMNELIS VIllIDIS, var. unimaculatis. (jI. subcoucolor, ocello uuico nigro prope init'uim piinifp. dormlia. Radii: B. (i-O ; D. 95; A. 70; C. 8; I'. 12; V. 0. Plate XXX., tig-. I, 2, luit. size. This fish has sucli a general resemblance to the figure of Opltidiuoi stigma of Bcnnct, published in tlie Zoological Ap- pendix to Captain Bccchey's Voyage to the Pacific (p. (57, pi. XX. fig. 1), that I was inclined to consider it to be tlie same species, until I observed that Dr. Collie mentions " very small scales" as existing on his fish. A single specimen onlv of st'ifjma was procured in Kotzcbuc Sound. Mr. Lay^s sketch, from which the figure was engraved, is said to have been slight, and neither his notes nor Dr. Collie's are suilicientlv detailed on the more essential pohits to render even the genus certain. The specimen we have figured was obtained by Sir Edward Belcher, in Northumberland Sound, and is so like Gyinnclis vindis in its general form and structure, that 1 readily follow the example of Kroycr and treat it as a mere variety. This author, in the iehthyological i)lates of Gai- raard's Voyage to Scandhiavia, represents three varieties of Gi/itineHn vindis (pi. xv.). Fig. a is the portrait of an in- di\idual ha\ing a row of four small eyed spots on the base of the dorsal, one of them over the anus, two before it, and two still lesser ones behind it. Fig. ('* has a single spot nearly in the situation of that shown in our Plate VIII., and fig. c is Mithout spots on the dorsal, but has about twelve transverse, pale, irrcgulai' bars on the body, of which the fifth is over the anus. The integuments of the fins are rather more delicate in our uinmacuhitus than in the specimen figured in Plate VII., which is to ])e attributed perhai)s to its givater youth. I^ach ray of the proximal portion of the anal has a small lobe at its point "PPI" 'i hi! •!/i > Vi ii II \i Mi ANACANTHINI. formed of the integument^ but near the caudal the rays are smaller and more crowded, so that these cutaneous lobes be- come obsolete. There are smaller and less distinctly formed tips on the dorsal, and hi that fin likewise the posterior rays arc more slender and more closely approximated. Generally the rays are simple, tapering, and jointed, the most distal ones being however divided at :I.e tips. The caudal rays are direct, parallel to one another as well as to the axis of the fish ; slender, short, touching each other, and occt;pying so little space as not to interfere with the acuteness of the tail : they are inserted into the terminal base of a trian- gular interspinous bone, whose apex is attached to the last ver- tebra. The numbers of rays given at the beginning of the article were ascertained after repeated trials, and are correct, as regards the vertical fins, within two or three of the whole number, the slender rays near the caudal occasioning doubt to that extent. The rays of the caudal itself are easily counted by aid of the lens, and there is little difficulty with the pecto- rals. Skin as in the preceding species ; the pores are less con- spicuous, but seem to be similarly situated to those of the spotless variety represented in Plate VII. Length of head contained rather more than six times in the total length, and distant rather more than its own length from the anus. The latter orifice is placed exactly at the end of the first third of the whole fish. The eyes are two of their own diameters removed from the tip of the gill-cover, and approach within one diameter of the tip of the snout. Dimemiom. Total length 5- 10 inches. From prcmaxilLiry symphysis to tip of gill-cover, mouth closed 0-81 From ditto to anus 1'70 Length of pectoral 0'40 Height of head at the nape O'^iO Breadth at ditto O'lO ANACAN'flllNf. 373 MERLANGUS POLARIS (Leech). Merlangm polaris, Sabine, App. Parry's First Voyage, p. ccxi. (Sir James Clark), App. Parry's Third Voyage, p. IIG. UADII. B. 7-7; D. 12-15-19=46; A. 17-21=38; C. 45 ; P. 19; 13-14-19=46; 16-23 = 39; 45; 19; 14-16-19=49; 17-22 = 39; 42; 18 ! 13-15-20=48; 17-21 = 38; 42 to 48 ; 18; Ross V. 6* 61: ^ This species was discovered on Sir John Ross's first voyage to Baffin's Bay, and was named by Dr. Leach, l)ut was first published by Colonel Sabine, who describes a specimen that was taken by a net when swimming on the surface of Baffin's Bay, on Sir Edward Parry's first voyage in search of a North- •\vcst Passage. Sir James Clark Ross also mentions this fish in the Appendix to Parry's Third A'oyagc, and there states that it is abundant in all the Arctic seas that had been visited by the North-west Expeditions up to that time. The speci- mens that form the subjects of the present notice were ob- tained by Sir Edward Belcher in Northumberland Sound, being the most northerly position in which the fish has been taken. It was seen in gi-cat numbers in Parry's second voyage, in the Duke of York's Bay, north of Southamptoi" Island, and Sir James Ross informs us that it is the principal food, in cer- tain seasons, of numerous sea-fowl. When hotly pursued by the beluga, or white whale, it has been observed, in its endea- vours to escape, to leap by hundreds on the ice : the members of the Expedition profited by this circumstance, and by its being frequently left by the ebbing tide in quantities in rocky pools, to obtain several excellent meals. Sir Edward Belcher's specimens appear to be young, and the species may, for anything we know, attain a considerable size, in which case there must be some change in its external * Belcher, pale specimen, f Ditto, dark specimen. X Sabine. f Ross, avcraffc. ^ wm i j I i '! iP n Mil' I i- i i 1 Mil tl 374 ANACANTIIIM. appearance. Tt approaches Merlnnyus virens in tlie numbers of its fin-rays, but if the figure in Mr. Vrarrell's excellent work on British Fishes be a correct representation of that fish, the resemblance between the species is not close. Description. Form, in general, much like that of an ill-conditioned had- dock {Morrhua (eylefinm). The head forms one-fourth of the total length of the fish, being proportionately longer than that of the cole fish {M. carbon arius) ., '.vhich polaris resembles in colour. Nearly a third of the length of the head is occupicMl by the large eye. At the occiput the fish is moderately com- pressed, the thickness there being on";-third less than the height. In the specimens the bellies are shrunk, but were the intestines full of food the abdomen would most likely be ])ro- minent, as is usual in the Gadi. Under the first dorsal the body is highest, and there the height is equal to twice tlie thickness. Towards the tail the compression gradually in- creases. The mouth is cleft as far back as the anterior third of the orbit ; the under jaw is a little the longest. A single row of minute acicular teeth, rather widely set, arms the premaxil- larics and mandible ; some of them are rather taller than the others. On the chevron of the vomer the teeth ai'c shoi't, rather stoutly subidate and curved, and stand also in a single series. There are no teeth on the palate bones. The lateral line is straight, without any archuu curve behind the pectoral, but with a slight deflection from the suprasca- pular region. Small, soft, round, silvery scales cover the sur- face of the body, being deeply imbedded in the skin, and not becoming detached so readily as those of M. carbonarius. The whole skin of the head and body is minutely speckled with round, black dots, equably dispersed ; the upper parts have a dark grey general tint, and the ventrals and anal fins are white. Fbis. — In ha\ ing naked spaces separating the several fins of the back and also the two of the belly this fish resembles the m ANACAXTHINI. 375 cok fish, but the spaces arc larger than even in that species. All the back fins arc highest in front, at the second or third ray, and gradually lower in an even line to the last ray, which is veiy short in all. The first dorsal therefore has not the conical form of 31. virens, as represented in Yarrell's figure. The second dorsal is the highest of the three, and the third occupies more of the dorsal line than the others. The anals are moderately arched in outline, and the second exceeds the first in the numbers of its rays more than in the other Mer- lanyi. The pectorals are narrow and pointed, and the ventrals end in a long hair-like tip, the second ray being the longest. Caudal deeply and acutely notched at the end, with acute lobes. The foUowing com])arative table is drawn up to ex- hibit the differences in the fin-rays of various Mcrlcutyi .— T)orsal fins. Anal fins. M. polarh . . 13-15-1!) = 47 ; 17-23 = :5!) \ ?'^''"" "' ( icrcnt ail . 13-19-18 =50; 31-20 = 51 -^ M. rii/ffnri.s M. curlmiKiriiifi AT. pollachliis . M. virois . M. virens . (lif- ifliors. 1 l-2f)-2() = 51 ; 21-19 = 13 ;- Yarrcll. 12-19-15 =10; 2t-ir. = 40) 13-20-19 = 52; 24-20=14 Linnirns. 13-20-19 = 52; 20-22 = 48 Keinhardt. Sir James Ross took thw trouble to count the rays of many examples oi' poh/ris, and found considerable variety in the numbers. The quotation from him at the beginning of this article gives the means of his reckoninjr. Dimensions. Pale species. Dark sijceics. Length from pvcmaxillary to tip of caudal 4'()0 in. 4-90 in. Length from prcniaxillaiy to amis . . . 200 2-12 Lengtii from prcmaxillary to gill-opening . M5 1-20 AVidtli at occiput o-45 050 Height behind the eyes o-(55 0'75 Diameter of the eye 030 o-33 The Merlanyus carbonarius and M. virens arc likewise in- habitants of Davis's Strait, and another species was noticed by 1 I Ill \f\\ ■B f>< ^i 'I 376 ANACANTIIINI. Colonel Sabine in Winter Harbour, Melville Island, but the specimens he obtained were so much decayed that he does not venture to say whether they belonged to the genus Merlangus or to Morrhua. In the hinder mandibular teeth being tricus- pid it seems to be peculiar, and differs widely from polaris. He enumerates the fin-rays as follows: — Radii: D. 13-19-30; A. 20-20; C. 40; P. 18; V. 6. These numbers approach nearest to those of polaris. EXPLANATION OP THE PLATES. Plate XXIII. Piiobetor tricusi'is. — Pig. 1, profile ; 2, upper view of head ; 3, under view of head ; 4, premaxillary teeth : — all of the natural size. Plate XXIV. Cottus olacialts. — Pig. 1, profile ; 2, plan of dorsal aspect ; 3, teeth of premaxillarics and vomer ; — all these of tlie uaturfil size. Pig. 4, teeth of the upper jaw, magnified. Plate XXV. Gasterosteus insculptus. — Pig. 1, profile, natural size. Pig. 2, dorsal aspect, magnified to twice its linear dimensions. Fig. 3, pelvic bones, much enlarged. Plate XXVI. Lycodes mucosus. — Pig. 1, profile; 2, top of the head; 3, under aspect of the head; 4, roof of the mouth; 5, man- dible : — all of the natural size. Plate XXVII. Gunnellus fasciatus. — Pig. 1, profile; 2, under surface of head and throat : — natural size. Plate XXVIII. Lumpenus nlbilus. — Pig. 1, profile ; 2, under surfpce of the head and throat : — natural size. Plate XXIX. Gymnelis viridis. — Pig. 1, profile; 2, top of the heod ; 3, under aspect of the head : — natural size. Plate XXX. Gymnelis viridis, var. unimaculatus. — Pig. 1, pro- file ; 2, top of the head : — natural size. 377 ACCOUNT OF THK ARCTIC CARBONIFEROUS FOSSILS. BY J.W. SALTER, ESQ., F.G.S., OF THE OKOLOGICAL SURVEY OF OREAT BRITAIN. The Expedition has been fortunate in supplying some miss- ing links in the Geology of tlic Arctic regions. Former researches, dating from the time of Parry's voyages, had shown that the great formations of limestone M'hich occupy the coast lines of the western Polar lands, Avere of Palaiozoic age ; and while the corals and other fossils from Boothia and Barrow Straits had been compared by Conybeare to those of our Dudley limestone, the fossil plants of Melville Island seemed to be identical in character with those of the coal measures. The former of these suggestions, viz. that there was much Silurian limestone in Polar America, received abundant con- firmation from the collections made by Captain Austin's Ex- pedition.* And the inference, drawn from the plants in Mel- ville Island, that the carl)oniferous rocks Mere not missing in the north, has been sustained unexpectedly l)y the researches of Captain Sir E. Belcher and the officers and gentlemen under his command. * See Appendix, with plates, to Dr. Sutherland's Journal. Long- man, 1853. VOL. II. 2 c !l .t V: (I , ,1 '.Mi i.fi i ; ! : • I ilil. : ^m Ml 378 (wVRHOMFERous I'ossrr.s. Ill the collections now brought home from the very furtlicst point visited, viz. the northern edge of Albert Land and the inlands oft' that coast, hit. 77^^ to 77° 15 N., we can recognize several characteristic carboniferous fossils, and indeed some of our own I'^nglish species — large Productl, corals, etc. ; and with these, as we might expect, are forms not yet described. A short notice of similar fossils from Melville Island, lat. 76°, was oifercd lately to the Royal Dublin Society by the Rev. Professor Ilaughton. The collection Avas made at the same time with those now described, and presented to the society by Captain Al'Clintock — a name well known as that of a zealous Arctic explorer. Among '^^c fossils the Professor recognized one, if not two, identical with those of the carbo- niferous rocks of Britain. But although these familiar fossils had never, before the late Expedition, been found in so high a latitude, we were in some degree prepared to meet with the marine equivalents of the carboniferous formation in one part or another of the great Arctic basin, both from the circumstance of fossil shells of that date having been found near the Slave Lake and along the Mackenzie, by Richardson,* and more especially from their occurrence in the northern part of the eastern hemi- sphere, even so far north as 74° 30', off" the North Cape. In the Transactions of ^he Royal Academy of Philosophy at Ber- lin, the Baron Yon Buch described, in 1810, fossils of this age brought home by Keilhau from the rocky islet called Bear Island (Biiren Inscl) in that latitude.f This islet, which lies to the south of Spitzbergen, is barely a mile in circumference, and is chiefly composed of limestone resting on coal shales, which, accordhig to Von Buch, contain ferns of the genus Pecopteris. The overlying limestone, which forms steep cliffs, was fomid to contain the large Product us gigantetis, together with P. * ' Narrative of a Journey,' etc. See also Murcliison's ' Siluria,' p. 427. f Von Buch, in Physikalischc Abhandl. der Kijtiigl. Akad. der Wissrnschaften (Berlin), vol. for 1846, )>. 05, ])Into. ■■■■■■Ri CARHOMFKROUS FOSSILS. ;}7!) pundatvs and Strophalomt striatn, besides Corals and Bryozoa of the carboniferous type, and a species of Sjnrifer wliich Von Buch thought Avorthy of a separate account, and a comparison with other hu'ge exotic species. The cliicf interest attaching to the last- mentioned fossil is, that the same peculiar Sjnrifer was found by Sir E, Belcher in company with the species about to be noticed. It would be out of place here to notice the valuable contri- bution to Arctic geology made by Professor Koninek* of Liege, in which he shows distinctly the occurrence of the Permian rocks in Spitzbcrgen itself, in a latitude as high as that of Albert Land, were it not for the indication it affords of higher and higher geological horizons as we approach the pole; thus giving confirmation to another discovery of Captain Belcher and his associates, and whicli has just been elaborated by Professor Owen, viz. that secondary rocks— with bones of Ichthyosauri /—are to be detected in these Cimmerian regions. Some lias sliells, too, arc quoted by Professor Ilaugbton (in the communication above adverted to), from Prince Pati-ick's Land, 7G° 30'; so that there seems no good reason to doubt that true Lower Secondary strata, in situ, arc to be found in this the cxtremest point of the western polar land ; and that when these fossils were deposited, conditions of climate some- thing like those of our own shores were prevailing in latitudes not far short of 80°. It is not allowed to enter here into the speculations to Avhich such discoveries must lead, and we return to the description of the fossils, premising that some of them— Product us Cora, Spirifer Keilhavii, etc.— were found on the top of Exmouth Island itself, the sandstone cliffs of wiiioh are capped by the limestone; and close upon this again lie the Ichthyosaurian bones. The greater part however of the fossils were weathered out on loose slabs which strewed the coast, jjarticularly at Depot Point, on the northern side of Albert Land, where * First published in the Bull, de rAcadcmie Eoyale de BelgiqiK^ (1846), vol. xiii. p. 592, and again repeated, with figures, in vol. xvi. Xo. 12. .) ,, o I 4 1 • r' I 'I 380 CAUHONII F.UOdH K()SS||,S. thf^y were very iihuiidimt, ini\c(l witli somo pieces of Siliiriiui h.iifstoiie liUe tli()S(> t'oiiiid l)y I'oimy and liis coiiiriideH in the Wellington and Unccn's ('lianiiels.* Many new forms of these Silnriun fossils remain nndeserihed, and some ol iella, occurs in a bhickish earthy Ume- ■■jcone in Cardigan Strait, on the coast of North Yorkshire. f Siluria, p. 335. I The connnon F. cylindrica, which is not half the size of the F. hi/perhorea, is called by the Russian peasants " petrified com," wiiicli it exactly resembles. Om-s is more like an iiour-glass witii rounded ends. MM n M ',»■ 't I' ill !• I 'U n I iliji !: f ^' ?.«■-■ .'.^,•V• I I: '■'■•■■v .ortiou of the septa slightly curved and simple, whih; the outer and larjjer portion is deeply waved, and often (from a section of the extreme undulation) appa- rently branched. The septa, too, in the ()ut(;r whorls arc? evi- ilently nu)re uudidated t ,au those of the inner ones, and towards the obtuse ends of the shell they arc; probably a f,'ood deal twisted, as the reticulate tissue there is complicated and confused iu the sections. Fig. 1, natural size; \ <' slijrhtly uuif-nified — a weathered specinu'n, showing,' the slightly undulated inner septa; '2, a portion of these magnified ; Xh, a cross siictieu (longitudinal), with four or five cons[)icuous whorls, and one or two obscuie eentral ones ; 3, a rough section, magnified, of two of tlie outer ehaud)ers, with their highly undulated septa. Locality. — In loose blocks at Depot Point, Albert T/uid ; gregarious. STYLASTREA INCONEEUTA (Lonsdale). Plate \XXVI., li-. \. SvN, i.oiisil. ill (icul. Has vol. i. (121 ; pi. A, W'^. 3. At first sight this fossil, of which then; are numerous exam- ples iu Sir L. Belcher's eollc(;tion, looks so like the common ^'. [Litlimtrotioii) banal I'lfonni: that it would be readily mis- taken for one of its varicti(;s. On (;()iuparing it, however, with specimens from Kendal, which have the same general internal str\ietnre, it is found to dili'cr considerably "in the greater dimensions of the cohunns, in the more- open structure of the interior, and in the centre being much less occupied by liroloiigations of the lamella'." In these respects it agrees ,i ':i i^i; mmm ,» I - 38^ CARHUMl'KROUiS I'USSlLiS. h E •!:■ (P ■i ' .ill I f ! ' i'lq well with Lonsdale's description of the species from the east side of the Ural ; and his iigure is very like, in the size of the tiil)os and their irregularly corrugated surface. The cross section, too, agrees very well in tlie comparatively few (38- 10) lamcUiv, of which only half are conspicuous, the intermediate ones hcing exceedingly short and ohscurc, in the wide space occupied by the central flattened tabulae, and in the loose ve- sicular tissiic. I do not think there is much doubt of their identity. The British Stylastrea from Kendal has more numerous lamcUiC (54 or GO), the intermediate ones being considerably developed and only a little shorter than the rest, and the ve- sicular ti>sue is closer and more abinulant. Shjiastrca, being without any elevation of the tabular into a crest or columella, seems to be a natural division. Professor JNIilue Edwards is inclined to regard the absence of that organ as accidental : it is, however, characteristic of the two species above noticed. Locality. — Depot Point. There are among these Arctic corals one or two species of Lithost ratio II with a central axis — one particularly abundant ; and there is also a large Micheliiiea, growing to a jjarabolic mass five or six inches high and four inches across, and with the calices half an inch in diameter. ZAPIIRENTIS OVIBOS (n. sp.). Plato XXXVI,, ti.ir. 5. Nine to ten inches high and two in brea 'th, curved, some- times strongly, and either gradually tapering or somewhat abruptly conical at the base, and thence cylindrical, and often a little contracted above. The surface is smooth, and regu- larly marked by ridges of growth aliout half a line apart, but seldom with constrictions : the calyx circular, deep, rather thin-edged, with numerous (3G— 11, or even 60 in a large spe- cimen) prominent septa extending to within the margin of the smooth central tabula, which is elevated in the middle into a narrow crest contiiuious with the primary septum, but not ■■■■ ■■« OARBOMFEROUS FOSSILS. 383 carried into the fossula. The latter is rather large, deep, placed on the (dorsal) curved side, and not at all invading the central tabula. One, or more frequently two, of the septa are abbreviated by it. The intermediate septa arc ex- tremely small and quite marginal. The vesicular tissue is close and conspicuous between the septa, and in the cross section it forms a definite outer zone only three-eighths of an inch wide in a specimen two inches and a half in diameter. The horizontal tabulae are wide, close set, not reaching quite across the central space, but imbricat- ing. The lamellae are nearly straight and equal, and leave only about one-third of the diameter free from them. This is rather doubtfully referred to the genus. It has a thin crest-like columella connected with the primary septum opposite to the fossula, and should therefore be a Lopho- phyllum (Edw. et Ilaime). But this crest is so rudimentary in some specimens, and the habit is so much that of Ziiphren- tis, that we leave it for the present among them. It has well developed central tabular bare of lamcllic in the middle, and in this respect it is like the other large species, Z.fimyites, Z. cy- lindrica, etc. The se})ta are strong and continuous, and appear to extend all down the visceral chamber, and not merely to be spread out on the surface of the tabuhe. This is shown both in wcatlicrcd casts and in transverse polished sections. Perhaps this indicates an approach toM'ards the CyatlinxonUUe. A rough resemblance to the horn of a ruminant has suir- gestcd the specific name. Locality. — Very common among the loose fragments at Depot Point. It is generally well preserved. A Zaphmitis, probably the same species, occurs further to the east, in Prin- cess Royal Island, and at the entrance of Jones's Strait. 1,1 lis' I: CLISIOPIIYLLUM TUMULUS Plate XXXVl, tiK. 0. sp.). A curved and twisted trumpet-shaped tube four inches long, annulated by rough ridges of growth and marked by faint "il |5;», 7W ' 384 CARBONll''EKOUS ^'OSSILS. ■'ti longitudinal ribs. The oblique cup two inches broad, thick- edged and dee]), with the margin recurved, lined by about ninety close and nearly equal lamella; (the intermediate ones being as strong as the others) descending to the bottom of a deep hollow a line broad, wliich sm-rounds the strong conical boss in the centre. The latter is almost cylindrical, more than half an inch broad and long, and much nearer to the concave than to the convex side of the tube. A few only of the princi- l)al ribs rise upon it iri'cgularly, and one of them forms a con- siderably twisted ridge or crest. The boss is formed of close vesicular tissue (apparently twisted when weathered), a more open tissue occupying the spaces between the lamella;. At first sight one is inclined to separate this from Clisio- phiiUum, although in general form it is very like; C, conisej,- tum or C. turbinntnm of the mountain limestone. !Milne Edwards has partieidarly mentioned tlie ribs on the conical axis of CUsiopliyllnm as straight, and in the English species they are stout lamella; (inosculating a little), and one of them is generally elevated into a ridge or crest upon the boss. In the Arctic fossil this crest is present, but carried iqj upon the boss Avith a twist ; and the state of weathering of the boss it- self in our specimen is so complete as nearly to obliterate the straight lamell!>:, and show the complicated (and apparently spiral) cdge.^ of its vesicular plates, so that it looks as if it were a large simple species of Lousdalia, as that genus is defined bv INIilne Edwards (Sfrombodes of jNI'Cov). It is however a genuine CUsiophyUuni, and dill'ers from all wc know by its very numerous equal lamclhc, the secondary ones reaching nearly all the way down the cup, and being as large as the principal ones ; and further, by the great height and jiromincnce of the boss, which is narrow conqjared with the breadth of the cup. The C. coniseploin, Keyscrling, has a somewhat twisted arrangement of the lamelhe, but a much broader and less elevated boss. Lo< A MTV. — Depot Point. Ji CARBONIFEROUS FOSSILS. 385 SYRINGOPORA (Aulopoua) sp. Plate XXXVI., fig. 7. Tlicsc reticulating creeping tubes overrun large spccim(>ns of the Zaphrentis before described. Such fossils used to be called Auhjmra, but they are the young stolouifcrous l)ase of a Syriiiffopora. This was first suggested to us by the late Professor E. Forbes, on examining the carboniferous fossils at Hook Point, in Wexford, where these corals abound. It has however been clearly shox/n to be the case by Professor Milne Edwards and J. Ilaimc in their great work on PaUeozoic Corals, (Archives du Museum d'Hist. Nat. vol. v.) It is impossible to say to Avhat species of Syriiiyopora such may belong, unless the full-grown coral wore found with them. In size and shape they agree pretty wcW with the young por- tions of S. gcniculata, so common in the Englisli carboniferous limestone. Locality. — Depot Point; frequent (on large coral;). FENESTELLA ARCTICA, n. sp. riate XXXVL, fig. 8, Portions of foliaceous plane fronds, which must have measured several inclies across. The l)rauches arc thicker than broad, rounded on the non-poriferous face, slightly but regularly zigzag, and fidly a third of a line broad ; they are regularly radiating and bifurcating ()\er the general surface; irregular, and .some of them mueh thickened below. Fenes- trules broad, oval, a line long, and fully twice the width of the branches. They are very regular in size and shape, those at the bifurcation of the branches being similar and equal to tl^e rest. Non-poriferous suifaec very finely striated, appearing .smooth to the eye ; pores ? As we have nothing of the poriferous face, it may seem hazardous to gi\e a name to this fossil; it is however a large and tine !^pecies, extremely regular in the disposition of the l)ranehcs and size of t]i(> [)erforatioiis, ami will be easily recog- 1^1 ■ i;:i , im * 1 It j ■ i m i( Ir'i' \'.: 1 1*^' : ■!■ ! • I, !^ll 1^ }} ]W 386 CARBONIFEROUS FOSSILS. iiizcd, should any collectors visit in future its rugged habitat. Fenesk'lta Martis, of Fischer (Oryct. Gouv. Moscou, pi. xxxix., fig. "Z), is not unlike it, but the apertures arc oval and but little broader than the interstices or branches, which arc decidedly thicker than in ours. The same may be said of the F. a'ibri- ociiluta, Verneuil, figured in Count Keyscrling's ' Rcise in Pet- schora-land,' pi. iii., fig. 7, which has neither so flat a surface nor such large perforations. Locality. — Depot Point. SPIRIFER KEILHAVIT (Von Buch). riato XXXVI., fig. 9, 10, 11. S. Koilliavii, Voii Buch, Trans. Roy. Acad. Pliilos. Berlin, \^W, p. 65, fig. 2 in the plate. 8yn. — S. Saraiia, De Vern., in Kcyscrling lleise in Petschora, pi. viii., ligs. 1, 5. There can be no doubt of the identity of this shell with that so carefully described by Von Buch from the "Producten-Sand- stein" of Bear Island. The scjuare form, short hinge line,* elcA atcd beaks, and broad deep plaits with ribs upoti them, all agi'cc exactly ; and we think that the variety we have figured (fig. 11) will agree equally well with Count Keyscrling's figiu'cs of the S. Samiice from Petschora. It is so distinct a species from any European ones as not to need comparison, and \ on Buch has compared it with its allies from New Hol- land and South Africa. Our specimens are all of the larger ventral valve. In the ordinary variety (figs. 9 and 10) they are an inch and a half long, and as much broad, Avith the hinge-line, in full-grown shells, shorter than the entire width. Beak very convex, ele- vated and incurved, furrowed to the apex, from which radiate ■* * Yon Buch says, "It belongs to the division in wliich the hinge line is as long as the shell." This must be intended to mark its re- lations witli broader-winged Spirifers rather than with the smooth rounded forms, for one of its best characters resides in the very s/iori hinge-line. CARBONIFEROUS FOSSILS. 387 thick and broad folds, six to eight on each side (six or seven in jur sijccimen) . Tliey are not quite simple, except near the hin.'To, but furnished with one or two ribs on the sides of the l)rincipal ones. The folds are rather angular, and much broad:;r than the furrows between thcra, but the sinus is as broad as the largest ribs, and has about seven " fine, not broad ribs,"* one of which is central and more conspicuous. The ventral valve, according to Von Buch, is only slightly convex. The variety Sarance (fig. 11) differs in having no central rib in the sinus, which is therefore angular and deep; but it shows the faint ridges both in the sinus and on the principal ribs. These arc rather more numerous (fully seven) and dis- tinct up to the hinge area, where the shell is sharply incurved. The ribs are rounder and not quite so angular as in the other variety. Locality.— Depot Point ; also in red limestone, Exmouth Island (Belcher), with the next. PRODUCTUS CORA (D'Orbigny). Plate XXXVI, tifr. 12. Our figure is an expanded and somewhat irregular snecimcii of the under (dorsal) valve, or rather the impression of its surface on the red limestone. The margin in this valve is abrujjtly turned down after the shell has attained a couple of inches in length, to fit the corresponding i)ortion of the upper valve. This indicates that the latter must have been highly convex, and there arc other smaller specimens of the upper valve from the same locality, more regular in form and with the beak prominent. The striation in both valves is characteristic, the wavy stria3 being elevated threads, with furrows interven- ing Avider than the ribs themselves. The stria) increase in number eontimudly by implantation, appearing to bifurcate 1i * In his figure the suppleuiuntary ribs are a little stronger than in OUT specimens. ,^ '» ^^M* fill t ;n^ i< \ f ■fi ji'i! iiM 'Hi 11 ■■ >.:» mm ' ;., f HKM.MNS OK AN K'HTII VOSAIia'S. 8S<) jiin)siis of ])(• Koninck, a Russian species; hut, besides that beiii}? a veiy much smaller shell, I)e Kouinek particularly says, that near the cardinal edge the ribs arc very fine or al)- sent, and that there is no tntrc of cardinal tubes along them. I lis figure agi'ccs with this description. In plate ix. of his excellent monograph* he has giv(!n a figure of a very wide variety, s( "ongly bilobed, but not so deeply as ours, and without the snomarginal spines which other specimens show ; and in thus eimmerating the many varieti(;s and exten- sive range of tlie specics,t he gives us additional reason for admitting this one as a Polar variety. All the specimens are striated coarsely, though our figure 14, which is very miich worn, shows them l)ut faintly. There are some large loose shining tubes (fig. 15) in the rock, which probably belong to this fossil. Locality. — Depot Point, in whitish and also in reddish limest(mc. The two carboniferous species identified by Prof Ilaughton from ]\Iel\ille Island arc. Product us uculeulus and Spirifer [rotundatun ?). J. AV. S. :1 Note on some lii'ma'ms of an Ic/it/ii/osmirus discovered by Cap- tain Sir Edward Belcher, C.B., R.N., at E.vinouth Island, in tat. 77° IG' N., tony. 9G° W. By Pkofessok Owkn, F.R.S., l'\G.S. The specimens submitted to me by Captain Sir Edwai-d Belcher, which form the subjects of Plate XXXI., are fossil remains of vcrtebnc and portions of ribs of an Icldhyosaurus, Figs. 1, 2, and 3 represent the largest and l)est preserved fossil, which is the body of an anterior abdominal vertebra. I'. : 'I I * Moiiogv. des FroclKctm, etc., in h'cclii relics siir les Aiiini. foss. ))remier(' partic, \'^M. f h'von ii|) to the lev Scii in IJussiii. lihi !! n Ml i I II wm I' 390 RKMAINH OF AN ICHTHYOSAURUS. It presents tlie ichtliyic character of tlic concavity of the arti- cular surface on both tlie front and haciv j)art of the centruni c, witli the character of cocxistiu}; tliapophyses d and parapo- physes j), not known in fishes, but wliieli the Endlhrnnirid present in their anterior trunk-vertebra;, in common with the Divosavrla, Crocodilia, and other hijrhly orj^anized reptihs. The fjeneric characters of the Icht/i[/osiiiinin are manifested in the shortness {I.e. the relatively small fore and aft diamiiter) of the ccntrura as compared with its breadth and heij^ht, and in the shajjc of the iieurajjophysial surfaces u />, and their j)roportioiis to the neural sm'faee n. AVith regard to the Bi)eeitic character of this vertel)ral centrum, its proportions pretty closely accord with those of the Ickthijosaitrm acutus from the Whitby lias; but this Mould l)e quite inadequate ground for a reference of the Arctic lehtliyosaur to that spe- cies in the absence of any evidence of the shape of its skidl and dentitit)u. Figures 1 to 7 are of a terminal caudal \ertebra, of the na- tural size, apparently of the same species of lehthyosaur ;uul probably from the same individual as the vertcljrm figs. 1-3, from the more advanced ])art of the luxly. The small caudal vertebra equally manifests the Ichthyo- saurian characters in its degree of biconcavity and in the form of the neurapophysial pits ii p ; the lateral compression of the centrum indicates the vertical development of the tisju- mentary tail-fin it helped to support : on the under surface are four surfaces for the hremal arches, Avhich arc articulated, as in the Crocodiles, at the vertebral interspaces to two conti- guous centrums. Figs. 8 to 11 arc portions of ribs. The long, free, thoracic- abdominal pleurapophyses, or vertebral ribs, of the Ichthyo- saurus arc peculiar for the deep longitudinal groove which impresses them on each side, giving to their transverse section the form represented in fig, 10. Two fragments of ribs, figs, 8 and 9, found associated with the before-described vertebra;, present this grooved character, and, with the \ertebra2, aflbrd cumulative proof of the lehtbyosaurian natiu'c of the Arctic fossils represented in Plate XXXI. ^1 hi ill >'iA r^ t « I r r. K ill i I'lt- / ^" '• II I II ( 1 1 I! .V \\ \ I I .,-r- fl. -....'' ., / /^. V-.-'-T' y ^ I'i. \r I -III, s' ,■ .1,,.,,. (A. / " V •'11.11 l.)!. \ ■• TiM. !■' I'.Lh. . I' c-~*- "^] M. ...,;;., I 1',' .^'- -^- A-! tllni!'.!. l..|r -A •■-;^ f \ houvi.t Xl V > • / H_l I HI'.MAINS ()!■ \S r(HT(IV(KHAIJH(JS. :ii) I I 1. IViii..'*.. Urn. II !•; '^X , Sir K. llclchcr has kindly forwarded the following note on tli(! locality of tlu; abovcdc-scrihcd fossils: — "The position on which these remains were fomid is situ- ated in latitude 77" HI' N, and lon;;ilude <)(!' W ., .".70 feet above the bvel of the sea. The base of the island is a iViiil)le, disintef,M'atiu},' saiulstone, which has been worn away on all sides, leaviuf,^ the concentric elevation, e(|iial to one-third of its ori-iinal dianu^ter, risin;r abruptly from its base, so much HO as to be accessible only on its \\(!stcrii end. "The summit is ea|»ped by a liiiu'stone fornuitiou of about one-tiftli of the entire hei^jht, say 1 1 !■ feet, restin-r on the saiulstoiu', and havinj,' a dip at its western end (as luay be noticed in i'late I \'.) of seven dc^irees. " It was at the right-hand pile marked on the Plate that, in the coustrnctiou of the cairn, fossils were lu.tiecd ; and at the last monu-nt, on fniishing the pile, two specimens were pic- isented by one of the men, apparently fossil bones, but, from anxiety to proceed and save the season, were hastily thrust into the pocket, and consigiuul, with others, for future scru- tiny. This happened at the end of the s(>ason in IHori. In 1K.")3 no opportunity oftered for revisiting the islaiul ; but, from speeimejis fouiul on Tal)le Island and on the nunu, the sole range of fossils was foinul to run in the assumed oval curve which would be formed by the dotted hue eonnecting the Exniouth, Table, and Princess Royal Islands, continued by the mainland up to Cape Briggs. " It is renuu-kable that no fossiliferous limcstoiu! is met with on the westernmost pile of Exmouth Island, nor on any of the laiuls outside of this oval space; and, excepting vcrv rare specimens, no fossils of any kind reappear until reaching the entrance of Cardigan Strait, in 70° 3S' N., where it oidy occurs in boulders on the beach, and in the next position southerly, Cai)e Eden, in 75° ;}()' N., where the 'Assistance' wintered in 18.").'}- 1. Between Cape I'^len and Bceehey Island fossils again become rare, and in the latter region do not appear to extend much beyond Cape Riley easterly. iVIl the intervening localities seem to furnish the magru-sian linuv stone or the old grevwack(> formations." ^ 1 if 1 I 1 i II j "vww^g^^m ^f^'^mm mm ^3U; Mi» r I? 1 :!i' • ri f;;- * '■ 1 fl( 'i i ' W'} ACCOINT OF THE 8UELLS COLLECTED liY CArTAIN SIR EDWARD BELCHER, C.li., NORTH OF BEECHEY ISLAND. BT LOVELL REEVE, F.L.S., F.CI.S. The additions mailc by Sir Edward Belcher to the Alolluscaii Fauna of tlu; Arctic Seas arc greater than niig-ht have l)eeu expected from the researches already made in that direction, by Fabricius, Parry, ]\Ioller, and Loveu. Out of forty- five species dredged in Wellington Channel and XorthumbcrJand Sound, comprised in the following list, scarcely half of t!iem have been hitherto notv^d as inhabiting Greenland, and only one-third of them range so far south as our own shores. Twelve of the species have not been hitherto described, but three had been previously known as doubtful. LYMN^EA (Draparnaud). L. Vahlii, ^Nliiller, Index Moll. Grocnlandite, p. 4. Limnophysa Yahlii, Beck. L. HolholUi, jNIollcr, Ind. Moll. Groen. p. 5. Limnophysa ilolboUii, Beck. BULLA (Lamarck). n. sm/pfu (PI. XXXII. Fig. 3 (I, b, r). IJnl. testa ovata, WA siii;f,i,s. 39:^ iiscaii l)e('u 3ti()ii, y-fivc I'Jaud t^cm only lores. I, l)iit solidiiiscniil, spiru minute' inuiK-rsi'i, anfractilius siih loiitc transvcrsini nuautissinit' ot orchcrrinio imprcsso-striatis ; pal- lidc fnlvA. The cliicf peculiarity of this spcci(>s consists in the suifaco being very minntcly and closely inipressly-striatcd across. B. nuckola (PI. XXXI I. Fiji-. 2 it, h, c) . Bui. testa ol)h)Mjio- cylindracca, medio subccKU'ctata^ licvigata, vel striis inercnienti arcuatim notatri, apiee angulato-immersA, suleo hitiuseuhj; in- tense fulvo-castanea. Of a compressly oblong-cylindrical form, Avith the spire so impressed as to show a broad internal groove, the shell being coated throughout with a dark fulvous-chestnut cuticle. B. semen (PI. XXXTI. Fig. l a, b, <;'). Bui. testa cyliiulra- cco-ovata, tumidiuscula, sjjiru dc[)rcss()-convex;'i, sutura ini- pressa, anfraetibns hevibus, convcxiuseulis, ultimo autice jiaii- lulum dcscendente ; fnlvesccnte-albii. Of a short cylindrical foi-ui, somewhat swolW-n, with a deprcssly convex spire, having the suture faintly ehamielU-d. Hab. Port Refuge, in ten fathoms, mud. NATICA (lianun-ek). A^ septeninonul'is, Jkck, Miiller, Index IMoll. (irecii. p. 7. A^. Groenlundicfi, Beck, ^riiller, Ind. INIoll. (irtcn. p. 7. MAlUiAlUTA (L..teh). M. tmbUicalis, .Broderip and Sowerby, Zool. Journ. vol. iv. Conch, lllus. Margarita, f. 5. Hab. Northumberland Sound. )vatii, LACUNA (Turton). L. vinctc, Montagu (Turbo), vol. ii. p. 307; Supp. pi. YZ. f. 11. The specimens comprise varieties lahiosa and (piadrifaariafa. Hab. Port Refuge. VOL. II. 0 I) w ^W m '' n V!| : 1 ,1 i i I ■ i )■;'. ri 394 SHELLS. SCALARIA (Lamarck). S. Grmnlandica, Clieranitz (Turbo), Conch. Cab. vol. xi. p. 15.5. pi. 195 A. f. 1878, 1879. S. plauicostata, Kiencr. S. subiilata, Couthouv. Hah. Lievcly, Greenland. BUCCINUM (Limutus). B.Belcheri (PI. XXXII. Fig. 7 a,b). Bucc. testa oblongo- ovata, basi truncata, tenui, aufractibus coiivexis, spiraliter lineari-suloatis, apertura ovata, columella arcuata, antice sub- excavatsv, contorta; intus extusque Imdo-castanca, pellucida, epidermide tenui decidua induta. Belonging to the same arctic tj^ic as B. ciliatum, tenehro- sum, and hydrophanum, but clearly distinct from either. Hub. Port Refuge, in eleven fathoms, mud. B. scalariforme, Beck, MoUer, lud. Moll. Grocn. p. 1 1 . B. tortuosum. Reeve. B. (jladulc, Linn. Syst. Nat. (12th edit.) p. ISOl'. B. Donovani, Gray, Zool. Beechcy's Voy. p. 128. B. glaciale, Donovan. B. hydrophanum, Hancock, Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. vol. xviii. p. 325. FUSUS (Bruguierc). F. tortmsm (PI. XXXII. Fig. 5 a, b) . Fus. testa anguste fusiformi, canali pecidiaritcr contracta et contorta, s])ira3 su- tiu'is imprcssis, aufractibus rotundatis, spiraliter liratis, liris funiculatis, conccntricis, versus apcrturam minus clevatis, aper- tura parva, ovata, columella arcuata, basi tortuosa ; opaco- alba, epidermide erassiuscula olivacea, induta. ^'erv closely allied to F. Islandicus and propinqmis, but dis- tinct from all the varieties of those species by its rounded elosely-edged whorls and twisted canal, in which latter cha- racter it agrees rather with the little F. pyi/mmis of Gould. vol. xi. oblongo- spiraliter tice sub- )cllucidu, tcnehro- er. . 11. 'ii list. vol. angiiste i]>ine su- itis, liris tis, apcr- ; opaco- but dis- roundcd tter clia- :^ould. 1 n mviusculo, vix ivciirvo, spiiw snturis iniprossis, antVactibus rotunclatis, spiralitcr costatis, subfuni- culatis, versus apcrturam snlco supcrficiario obsolete divisis, intcrstitiis cxcavatis, apertiirfi ovata, labro pcculiaritcr cffiiso- fnlvo-fiisca, eostis sul)nitontibus, oolumclla roscc pallide tiiicta! This fine species (inserted here from Mr. Cuming's col- lection) is from S])itzbergen. TROPHON (:\lontford). T. Fabncii, Beck, MciUer, Ind. Moll. Groeidandii^, p. 1 |.. Tritouium craticulatum, Fabricius. Miu'ex borealis, Reeve. MITRA (Lamarck). M. Grmnlandica, Beck, Miiller, Ind. Moll. Gr(i>nlaudia> p. 15. CExMORIA (Leach). C. cognata, Gould. PATELLA (Linnrens). P. ccrea (PI. XXXIL Fig. 1 a, h, c), Moller, In.l. Moll. Groenlandia;, p. IG. A diaphanous white species, decussated with fine radiating linear lidgcs and concentric striic of growth. Mr. Cuming possesses specimens from Norway. Hah. AVinter Quarters ofl' Ca]>o Eden, in thi-cc fathoms, gravel. ACMyEA (Escli.-eholtz). A. testudina/is (Patella), Miilier, Zool. Dan. Prodr. p. 237. P. Clealaudii, Sowerby. P. amoena, Say. Lottia tcstudinalis, Gray. Patelloidea amoena, Couthouy. :2 \) .J ,n •■i - iHU -i i! CT't- I ■III ,: ''k wr I ■ '^ \m\ siri-,M,s. CHITON (Tjiuuifus). C. riihcr, Linnaeus, Syst. Nat. (1,'itli edit.) p. 1107. C. cincrcus, O. Fubricius. C. minimus, Spciigler. C. laivisj Lovcn. C. albna, LimuTus, Syst. Nat. (12th edit.) p. 110/. C. aselloidcs, Lowe. C. sagriuatusj Couthouy. PECTiyN (Bruguicre). P. Islandicus, MuUcr (Ostrca) Zool. Dan. Prod. No. 2990. Hub. Lievely, Greenland. LIMA (Brujiuicie). L, subauriculata, Alonta'i'i (Pectcn), Test. Brit. Supp. p. 63. pi. 29. f. 2. L. nivca, Pliili^jpi. L. sulcata^ Bvown. L. sulculus, Leach. NrClILA (Lamax'ck). N. PorthuKUca, llitclicock (I'l. XXXIIL Fi?' ri 1^ 't !,^ !Mt! i', I t i' ■ ■ , ■hi I U i if I .; '!i 1 1 W^ \\- - #y ' .<« SIIKI.LS. tm Spocimens of this species were dredged from a depth of seventy-four fatlionis. N. .w/rifn-a (PI. XXXITT. Fi-. 1 o, />, r). Nuc. tcstd snh- iiiij^tiste-ovata, comijrcssri, ad iiiiiljoiics fiihliosiiisculA, subieqiii- laterali, latere postico rotiiiidato, aiitico Icvitercoiicavo-Hcxiioso et obtuse rostrato, valvis coiiccMiti'ice superHcialiter sidcutis, sidcis distantibus; albiilA, cpidiTinidc vireiite eonica iudiita. A narrow, ovate, Hexuously-ljcaked species, marked with coneenti'ic, superficial, Avidely-scparatcd !i brou^ilit hv Ciiptiiiii Sir Edward Ocli'licr is not, very nnincroiis, but there are a lew new species, besides some iiiterestiiif^ ones wliieh have; been descril)cd by former naturalists. Tlie specimens were all obtained by the (Iredjie between lieeeliey Island and Xortlunnbcrland Sound, and ;;-enerally in depths exceedinj;- thirty fathonis. 1 have found it necessary in sonu' instances to revise the spccilic characters given l)y former writers. I i I DECAPODA MAVIWRA. IIII'POLYTE I50R1<:AL1S (Owen). 'I'lionici' cyliiuh'aL'co, aiiticL' Mi'Dciiiiiiuto, iiiiiiiilo iintii'o-iiil'iriorc luiilico, ciiiidir liuniiii'i media spiuis iniiiuli.-i Hi nd 2U iinuatis. Ilijiliiih/li' //(ifcfi/ls, Owen, in .\p|ifiid. to ('a|)taiii Sir .lolni lloss's Vov- a-f, p. Ixwiv. I. 15. f. :}; Kdu. Ili~t. Nat. dcs Crust, ii. p. 'M:L It Avas very truly observed by Colonel Sabine, in his account ol'tiie Crustacea obtained in Parry's voyage, that the ruunber of teeth on tin; rostrum in the dillerent species of Uippolijle is no good criterion of specifif; distinction, and this is particu- larly true of the present species. The rostrum is straight, in some individuals with, in smne without, an inferior carina; :! I n I : .i.i CltUSTACKA. -11)1 ill sonic then- arc no teeth at all, cither on the cunipace or the rostriun; in others, a few small inconspicuous serrations, and in others u few small teeth. It is readily (listinf^uished from //. j/o/aris, and from all other species, hy flic characters given above. illl'POLYTK ACl'LHATA (I'ahr.). Thornrc ifihljoso, Ibrlilcr ()Miii(|uc-(l(iital(i, nistro tciiui, pcdiniciilo an- tenna' snjn'rii)i'is \i!v Idimiorc. Cancer (iritlmliiH, Olh. Knlir.. Faunn (.nrnl., No, 21?. Alplurun uciilctthix, Sill)., .\|)|). lo Tarn's V(i\aiii', |i. iTxx.wii. t. ii. r. !t, in. Uijipuluh: ucnliuild, VAw.. Ilisl. Nal. ii. p. oSU. A single small s]Heii>)cn only was found in the collection, without any distinct locality being nanu'd. Colonel Sabine states that scvcial specimens were found at Melville Island. It is at once recognized by the slender slun-t rostrmu and the extraordinary gibbosity of the carapace. lIll'l'OLVTK POLAIUS (Sabine). Thdi'acc ^il)l)()sii, aiilicr carinalo. ro.siro lamella anteiui:i' sn))erioris ln'i'vioi'e, elielifi et, miLfiiihus apiee iii^ris. Alplurjix pohiris, Sabine. .\|i|). Id Tarn's N'ova^c, p. ee.wwiii. t. ii. f. .V-S. IHlJlinlylf ijf'ariii, Kdw., Hist. .\al. des ('rnst. ii. p. .'57(1; Owen, in lioss's ^'()y., p. Iwxv. In this species the female is so much larger than the male, and the thorax .so much nu)rc strongly gibbous, that the two sexes nught at first sight be readily mistaken for diflercnt species. The figure^ given by Colonel S;djiiie is that of a male. The number of teeth on the rostrum varies greatly ; I found i'rom two to lour on the np|)('r, and from two to five on the under side. Colonel Sabine states IVom tbi'ee to six above and from two to six below. ]\liliie I'ldwards has erroneously "■iven eight to ten on the up])er, and two or three on the under side. The earaiiace has invai'ial)iy three teeth on the carina. It would appear to be an abuudaut species, as there Mcre I..\TE XX XI v., tin-. 1. Tliorace subcyliiHlracco, luuul fiibboso, rostro recto, alxlominia seg- iiuiiti) ti'Vtio s))ina iiiiciiuita I'oi'ti ariiiati). In this ncAV species, the body is slender and smooth; the cara- pace nearly cylindrical, with a single tooth at the outside of the orbilar notch, slightly earinated on the anterior half, but not gibbous, the carina with two small teeth ; the rostrum straight, narrow, with three very small teeth above and two beneath, in the single specimen observed ; the outer filament of the su- jjcrior antenna thickened near the base, and gradually taper- ing to the extremity. The abdomen is strongly bent at the third segment, which is armed, near the posterior margin, with a strong hooked spine, curved backwai'ds ; the fifth and sixth segments Avith a small triangular spine at the anterior angle; the seventh (middle lamina of the tail), Avith five pairs of minute spines above. Antenna?, legs, and pedipalps very slender; first pair of abdominal false feet as large as the others. Length from rostrum to tail, 18 inch. This species has the strong hooked spine which is charac- teristic of //. Sowcrbtci, but it diifei's widely from it in its general character. It belongs, in fact, with that exception, to tho more smootli and sleiuler section of the genus. A single specimen only Avas foimd in the collfiction, without any particular locality being designated. ( ': hti CRANGON BOREAS (Vucc). Caiictr l/ort'(if>, Pliipps' Vo\., App. 190. t. \-i. f. 1. Craiiyon Parens, Sah., Parry's Voy. rcxxw. ; Edw., Hist. Nat. dcs Crust, ii. ]i. 'Hi. T\fo specimens were obtained, one of which was a remark- ably large one. r . ;*• ^■^^ ^M^l «M«Hi«aM«iHHam ■■■ HP m ill] r'' >•■ 11 i, 11 r-ll lli J'' :t|r 1 f , I i ( I . • t ■.7; \!/ a; K ^-^ "---c^r^^ .--<-% (K.^ 5v ^V:L 'i \. \ ■•-^ CRUSTACKA. 103 Fam. cum ad. K. ALAUNA (I0()1)S1R[* I'l.ATi: XXXIV., fio-. 0 Uostro recto, scii-iiiciitis iilKioiniiiis iinu-iilati.s. "Ill the tliirtceutli volume of the ' Aiumles des Sciences Natiirelles/ Dr. IMihie E(h\ai-(ls descrilicd a small enistacean under the luimo of Ciima Aiulouinil ; but in his ' Ilistoirc NuturcUe des (,'nistaccvs/ he exi)resses his douljt wliether this little animal he anythinj;' more than the larva of a deeapodous form, and places it amongst other doubtful examples, in an Appendix. "In IS 13, however, Mr. Harry Goodsir published, in the ' Kdinbnr-h Xew Philosophical Journal,' a very full and clear description of this and two othei' species of Cimia and of two allied species, which he coiisidenxl as the types of two new iicnera, to Avhich lie gives the names rcspcJtively of Alamm and Bodotria. The Avhole of these I have ventured to con- sider, pronsimKtlhj, as constituting a small family, ])robably belonging to the lower Deeapoda, which apjiears also to lie Mr. Cioodsir's own opinion, though expressed with doubt, in Avhich doiilit T entirely agree. This author satisfactorily determined that they are perfectly developed animals, and not mere larva;." t Such is a sucehiet account of what was known respecting the little animals which I ventured to consider as constituting the family Cu.mai).e, but the details of their structure given by :\rr. Goodsir aflbrded v(>ry imperfect grounds for judgimr of their real position in the Class. * * It is with a iiidaiicholy sous.' of duty that I (hdlcatc this spocirs lo the hnni'i.tnl luitunilist, wliosc untinirly fate is comkctcd with the saddest associations; and this iVrlino- is ,mhanrcd hv the ivcollcctioii oriiial iviaaikal)h' zral and talent hy wiiieh lie was (listiii-nished, and iVom which, had he l)ecu spared, resuhs the most important to the «Alcnsioii of natural science mi,o-|ii have lieeii antieipaleil. J^clFs Brit. (rust., p II. 'i It I' if.* 1 ' ll p 104 cKi STA( i:a. / ll I '!il!' IT fi ^ The occuri'cnco of a very large speciineii of .a new speeics of Alaunu in Sir Edward Belclicr's eollcetiou lias afforded U) Mr. Westwood an op])ortuiiity <)1 liuurinn', f(n' the present i'aper, the details of the anatomy of all the essential parts, — a task Avhich, as a refereiieo to the; fiixnres will show, he has exeeuted with his usual unrivalled aeeuracy and taet. These details appear to confirm the ()})inion that this family must be placed amongst the lower forms of the; deeapodous group. Tlu; num- ber and general structure of the parts connected with the ollicc of manducation, and of the thoracic feet, ai-e entirely ( onsis- tent with this view; and the structure of the tail, which is formed {;f the; :i[)p('i(liiges to the sixth abdominal segment and of the seventh, no less agrees with it. The al)sence of any ocular ])eduiu'le however shows an aI)erration from the ty|)e, of such ini;)()rt:iiice as to throw a strong ap[)arent doubt ui)on tlie sul)ject. IJesidcs the single large speciruen, there are several others in the collection considerably smaller (fig. 3), which difi'er in some characters, as the less convex form of the carapace, more; obvious rugie on the fi)re ])art of it, and the existence of an acute point on ca(;h side of the last leg- bearing segment. Tlu'sc jnay be; iuniiature individuals, or possibly nudes, or they may perhai)s be specilically diifcrcut. llith. Wellington Channel, in thirty-five to seventy fathoms. iSTOMOPODA. A single specimen of a Mi/sis, probably M. Fahr'icli, was in too decomposed a condition to be identified with certainty. AMPHIPODA. GA:\IMARUS SABIXI (Leach). (idlihiKU'/ix Sdf/ii/i, l,c;icli, ill lio^js \(n;iL;r, ii. |). 17^; Sallillc, I'aiTv's "X'oMi'ir, .\|i|ifii(l., |i. (•I'xxxiii. ; Kroyir, .\.iii[ilii[)., ]i. ICi. t. i. i'. ;> ; l''.ih\., I. c. iii. |i. ,"i(i. ClilSTAflvV. 105 (JAM MARIAS F.Oh'ICATUS (Sabino). Clonimariis /nrim/n.s, !S;il)iiic, Parry's V(iy;ii;'c, Apjuiiil., p. ci'wxi, I. i, r. 7. Kroyir, 1. c, p. ':;;.>. t. i. I'. I : i:,|u.. I. c, p. .V,). GAMAFAHUS EOKEIIS (Siibinc). (lOi/iii/ams horous, Sahiiir, 1. r.. p. crxxix. ? Sqidlla j)iih'.v, Dcgccr, Ins. vii. ]). 5:25. t. x.wiii. i'. I. ;>, For ail excellent dcscriptiou of this speeies, and a critical examination of its identity with S(/iiil/a l'ii/i\r of Dcficcr, ] must refer to the original account of it by Colonel Sabine, above (jnotcd. (iAM.MARLS KllOVEKl (n.s.j. I'l.ATK XX.ViV.. li-. k Antcnilis snpcriorilnis iurciiorilms (limidii, Idnuioriliiis, alxkniiii;!, ^••.■^•- luciilis (piatiKir aiilrviorihii.-. in medio, sitiuhIo rt trriio ad an;^-idinu dd'crioivni posticuni, in dcntc prodnctis. Superior antenuie half as loujjf again as the inferior; tlic accessory filament extremely nuiuite; tli(> anterior (four) tho- wicic ejjimeral ])lates increasing gradually in size, rounded be- neath, the fourth slightly produced at the po,>teri»>r mai'niu ; the fifth ami sixth with a lobe at the aiitcrior-infcrior portion ; the seventh oval. First and second pairs of thoracic feet che- liform; the second with th(> penultimate joint very broad, o))- liqucly truncate ; third and fourth simple ; the three following with the third joint very large and oval. Abdominal false feec normal. There is a small triangular dentiform process, di. reefed backwai'ds, on the middle of the posterior mai'^in of the anterior four segments of the abdomen, and the postero- inferior angle of the second and third is similarly prodnced. This species has a very close I'csemljlance to .Inijj/iiloc I,}, cmpis of Kroyer. It is however a true Cliumiiarus, as the ac- cessory filanunit of flu- superior antenna; does exist, altlumgh extremely small. Huh. W(>llii)gton Channel, in thirty-five fathoms. 11 ' ^ it ■' ' m t\ if- ' ftifi i I I l,r. U StW I i 400 CRUSTAOEA. LYCIANASSA LA.(1!<:NA (Kroy.). Li/riaiianfin liificiia, Kvoy., (irirnl. Ainli)., |). !>. t. i. f. 1 ; Kdw. Cn.si. iii. ]). 3) . Jiioiii/x laiji'iKi. Ki'oy., 1. c, p. 10. Of tliis species numerous fine specimens arc in the collec- tion. AMPHIT()E LyEVIUSCULA (Kroy.). AMphilik hevimcula, Kroy., (jr(i;ul. Amfi))., ji. 53. t. iii. I". 1:5: Kiiw. Crust., p. .30. AMPHIT(h<: JURINII? (Kroy.). A specimen in a broken state occurs, which may probably be of this species. ACANTIIOSOMA HYSTRIX (Owen). Acaniliosoma //i/strix, (Jwen, Append, to lioss's Second Voyage, )). xci., pi. 8. f. 4-7. Ahiphifiie Jnjstriv, Kroy., (irrenland's Aintip., )>. 31. i. ii. f. 7 ; ImIu. Hist. Nat. Crust, iii. p. lO. STEGOCEPHALUS (Kroy.) AMPULLA (Phipps). ri.ATK XXXV., tig. 1. Cancer Awptdla, Pliijjps' Voy. Append, p. '[^y-X. t. xii. f, 3; llerl)st, ii. p. 117. t. XXXV. i". 2. Gammarns AiiipHlla, Sab., Suppl. I'arry's l'ii'.-~t Voyage, j). ecxxix.; lloss, Append, to Parry's Polar Voyage, p. i-'dl. AmpJddie Ampulla, Edw., 1. e., iii. p. 23. Slcgoceplmlns Anipulla, Kroy., Xaturli. Tijdsk., iv. l,j(). An opportunity offered, by the occuiTcnce in the collection of several fine speciniens of this species, of giving a correct figure of the animal, together Avith the details of the csseiitiiil parts of its organization. The figures hitherto piiblished, and referred to above, are exceediiigly imperfect and incorrect; :>('- , ( .. I' IF " Pi..t. .x.v.v. \i t^ !!?! Mill '\AA Pi..|. .x.\x ClirSTACKA. 407 ir\ In '^^ ^-^^v IIorI)st's is merely a bad o()i)y of that of Pliipjis. Mr. West- wood's, noM' frivcn, is remarkably characteristic, and the ana- tomical details jire extremely correct and intel•estin^^ A re- ference to the I'hite will render any particnlar desei-iijtion ol" these parts unnecessary. There Mere numerous young contained in the ovigcrons pouch of tlic female figured in the Plate. They had undergone their metamor])hosis, and were in cv(!ry respect like the piiivnt, with the exception of the antenure, which were thicker, and less numerously jointed. Hub. Northuml)crlaiid Sound, in seven fathoms. LyEMODJPODJ. CAPRELLA SPINIFERA (u. s.1. Pj.atf, X\XV„ lin-. -2. Sfgmcntis oiuuibiis corporis spinis ariiuitis. The head in this very distinct species is very short, the eyes roinid and black ; the superior antenntc almost as long as Hie body, of which length the peduncle constitutes nearly half; the first joint cylindrical, half as long as the second, which is slightly eidarged forwards ; inferior anteniue about half the lenglh of the superior; the first joint of the peduncle very short, the seeoiul oidy a little longer, the third three times \is long as the first and second. Footjaws four-jointeil, slightly ciu-ved : first segment of thorax sonunvhat pyriform, with sevei'al minute- tubercles, and two little spines close to its junction with the head; the second, third, and fourth segments thickened at the middle, at which part is a p.irtial circle of spines, as well as several others at the anterior and posterior iiart ; fifth se^-- nuMit largest at the posterior part, and spined as the others; sixth and seventh segments very short, narrowed anteriorly ': the seventh furnished with a pair of simple curved appemlages. Abdominal segment extremely small, with two pairs (jf ai)iKMi- dages, of which the smaller pair are simple, and the larger two jointed. Ant(;rioi' pai)' of logs slender and weak, scareelv twice 408 ( IIISTACKA. as long as the lirst llioiacic sc^^nuMit ; tlic second piiir loii;; iind robust ; tlii' liand tliick, witli a stroiiji; s|tim; iirar tlic liasc lii'iiciitli, wliicli is met hy tlic liiit;('f when hent, 'i'lie tJiici' posterior paii's slender, tlie pennltiniute joint with a small spine or tuben le, ineelinfj,' the nail when closed, as in the hand of the second ])air Length of body, !• 1. inch. Utth. Throughout the Strait : motion barely perceptible. ISOVODA. AllCTl'Rl'S 15AFFINI (Sabine). fihlfpa BnJJini, Siiii., ,\|)pciul. lo I'arns Voy |i. all. t. i. f. t-f'i. Arclurns tuh't'cnliiluK, T.atr., \\v%. An. Ciiv., cil. ~', i\. p. l:V.i. /Irctiiriin /iiij/iiil, Wvi-twuod, Trans. KnI. Soc. i. p. 7~ ; l^ilw. Hi-I- Nat. Crust, iii. p. 1 :.':!. t. 31. f. 1. IDOT.EA ENTOMON (Lin.). Onisctis Entomoii, Lin., i'ann. Succ. d Sysl. Nat. Cyiiiolhoa Entoiuoii , I'alir., I',nt. S\--l, ii. ]>. (ill."), lilolcea Eidoiiioii, 15(jsc. l.atr. ; I'.du. (Vn>l. iii. p. 1:2S. Numerous fine specimens of these; two species of Isopods arc iu the collcctio)i. ! i PYCNOGONID^E. NYMPIION IIIRTIPES. Pi.Ain XXXY., (iii-, :3. i I't'dipalparuni di^ito mohili ciirvo, dij;iti) inininhjli nnilto snpcvantc ; pL'dil)us ()inui!)iis iiirtis. The rostrum is cylindrical, rounded at the apex ; head with the anterior margin notched; the lootjaAvs rather slender, the second joint having the inuuovablc Hngcr straight, the mov- able one much longer and moderately curved ; the jjalps of the footjaws, or first pair of articulate appendages, tivc-joiuted, I II! STACKA 10!) liiiviii;; tlic lliorncic sc;ii)iciits iiciirly (■(|ii!il. tlic lo^-s uilli all tlic jiiiiits jijiirv, llic ii!iil< ;il)ni|)lly hciit. As there is iM> li^iire i\\' Xi/m/i/ioii liiiiinii of l^'ahrieiiis, it i- not possible (o iisccrtain wlicther tlie |)rese)it iiiiinial is ideii- tieai with tluit or not, hut it appears to me that it is distinct, as there is no haii'iness about the body n{' /.■ir/i/ji's. Huh. Nortluuuljerlanil Sound, in thii'ty-tlirec tiillu)ni>, W.MPIIO.N l!01ii STl.M I'l.ATl. WW., li-. I. ri'diiKilpiinnii vW\U -loli()>is, (ijo-iii, vaJdr rurvjs; prdihus .■(impivssis la'viliii--. This very lar^io speeies is reniarkahlc for the peculiar strue- ture (d'the pedipalps, whiidi are robust ami thiek, the terminal portion or hand almost globular, with the fiu-'vrs nuieh eurved, uuTtinj;- at the points, and thus ionniuy nearly a einde ; the le,i;-.s arc stron;^' and lari^c, somewhat compressed, and ([uitc naked. In these descriptions J. have considered the sei,rinent next to the cylindrical rostiuni as the head, of which it is (dearl,- the homolo-ue, as the ibotjaws and the articulated appendages are attached to the anterior ])art of this segment. Hah. Noi'thumberland Sound, in thirty-three fathoms. I'lXl'LANATION Oh' Till'. PLATKS. I'lati: XXXIV. Fig. 1. IVipixihjIr li(h-hi'r}.—\ a, natural size; I h, supe- rior antenna', the tip of the inner fdament removed; I r, ter- minal scguu'ut, uith the caudal plates on one side. Fig. :i. Alainid (ioot/.s/r/.— :!, natural size, vi(nved above. 2 I/, natural size. :1 b, uppei' anlenna. .',; r, (uu; of a pair of didicate knife-like jjlates, having a ihickened line running ob- li(piely from l)ase to api'x ; the thin outer edge rounded at tiie tip, folding over on the inner edgi' ; these rest witiiiii the con- cavities of the I wo portions of the rostrum, and are supposed \(ll.. It. -J V ^ ^^^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ill I.I 11.25 g50 ^^^* IR^IB tii iU 12.2 Ska ■" 2.0 ^ tis, i ii ■lUU mm U IIIIII.6 6" % vy -^ fV^\^ ^» /A Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (71«) 873-4503 ^i'. 6^ 410 ClirsTACI'.A. -' i 1 » ! m !ai l)y Mr. AVcstwood, with much |)rohiil)ility, to he tlic roprcscii- tiitivos of the srulcs of the antcunie. 2 (I, two hnvcr uiitoiiiiu', with the socoud aiitciuial sofrnicnt 2 c, mandibles. 2 jl\ upper maxilla. 2 (j, lower maxilla. 2 A, labium. 2 /, inner foot- jaw. 2 /, one of the first |)air of eom])ound feet. 2 m, one of the last p.iir of eompound feet. 2 w, one of tlu; middle i)air of compovind feet. 2 o, one of tlu; first pair of simple feet. 2 p, front of the body seen from above. 2 ly, under side of the middle portion of the foot-bearin}; sej^ments ; those bear- in}^ the eompound feet fiu'nished with a pair of flattened com- pressed leatluMT plates, the faces of Wiiieh are oi)posed to each other. Fig. 3. The ciirapace, pedigennis segments, and basal seg- ment of the alxlominal portion of the smaller individuals found, of which there were no fewer than twenty-seven. The carapace is less convex, more transversal, rugose at the an- terior part ; the last leg-bearing segment produced into an acme point cm each side. Fig. 1. (iainmuniti Krai/cri. — I o, natural size. I b, the two central divisions of the; terminal segment. Pi.ATi: XXW. Fig. I. Sf, labium of two mandiljlcs. 1 c, mider side of left mandible, showing the articulation of the flattened articulated apjxMulage. 1 d, first maxilla. I c, secoui! uaxilla. 1 /, half of the labrum. 1 //, a minute cili- ated nicnd)ranous appendage, which may possibly be a portion of a maxilla. 1 A, footjaws. ] /', one of the first pair of feet. 1 k, tail-pieces. 1 /, one of al)out fifty young taken from the ovigerous pouch. Fig. 2. ('fiprt'/la spiii'ifcrd. — 2 a, natural size. 2 h, upper lip. 2 c, " pal])igerous mandildcs?" 2 d, first maxilla. 2 c, second maxilla. 2 f, labium. 2 (f, footjaws. 2 //, terminal segments of the body seen from above. 2 /', the same seen sidcw.i' s, showing a pair of short exarticidate filaments at- tached to the last leg-bearing segment, and a pair of similai' 1 li CIIUSTACKA. 411 appendages, acrompaniod by a pair of larger two-jointed ones, attached t;) the minute terminal representative of the ab- domen. Fig. 3. Xi/itijt/ion hirtiprs. — .'? a, oenligerons footstalk seen from above. .3 h, ehelie 'footjaws). .'} r, one of the first pair of articulated appendages (palps of footjaws) . rig. 1. Xi/itip/ioit rohiistimi. — I I'laborate anatomical details of the Plates, and for tiie greater part of the description (,." them which I have adoi)ted, I have to acknowledge my obligation to Mr. West- wood. 11 1 r;:i ' 'it ' :: -ill 1 '''ji f ■ - i 0^' I 1 l\SCI{U»T10NS ON ill' I iiif'' r 11 M i I'lIK CIINDTAPII l^ liHKCIIKV ISI.A.MI. ti 1' (VOL. 11., 1'. :;3l.) *atrcti I'o Tin: mi:m>>hy of MONSrElH liKLKOT, I ii,rTi:.\ANT IN iiii; ihi:ncii .navy, AM) ( iii:VAi.ii:i( 01- Tin: i.i:iii().\ of iioNOiii, will) .\( l().MI'ANU:i) MH. KIC.VNFDV AM) CAl'TAIV !Mll,KFIi:i.l) i)\ iiiEiu uespectivf; visits to the AKCTIC liEGlOXS. VVliiR iiltiiclu'd to 1I.M..S. I'lin'iiix, iiiidfr t':i|ii:,iii liinli'licld. In- fiiillinilly Miluiili'.i'i'il to convi'v Di'sjiiili-lu'.-' to I'lipliiiii Sir ]■;. IJi'lcluT, with :i sli'd^ic rrcu I'roiii II. .M.S. Norlli Stiir. Ill .'I li.'.ivv f,'idi' of wind on llu- ISth \iiHU>t, IS,");!, lir warf di'owiii'd by tiio diM'U|ili(ni ol' till' ii'c luai- C'a|ii' Griiiiifli, iimrli iiiiiu'lili'd liy llif Al'clir S(iii,idi'ou and :ill who liiid llic |iiciiMiri' of kniivx- 111^; 'i.i> v. -due and iiolih' -|)ii'il. Sactcl) Tl) Tin: MEMOHY OF WILI lAM CI TJilSIl, l'iaV\TE liOYAl, MAUINE, II. M.S. A.-;hIST.\N(E, \ NATl\l: OF .NdlillllAAI, sr-;SE.\, WHO i)n:i> on iioaud ON Tin; li'Tii FEiiitrAKY, 185;{, AFTEIt A I'liOTUAt'TED ILLNESS I'UOM DISEASE OF THE LINGS', AGED 31. YEAltS. Ifo served willi I'vudit in Ins corps Cor upwards ol' KJvears and 1 inoiitlis, fjaiii iiig by Ills flood conduct two badfios ol nicrit ill addilOii to the Syrian medal During twelve months of the above |)e rio(lheserv<'din 1 1. JI.S. Assist ance,i;»in \\\ii the respect of Captain and ollicers and beloved by all who knew him, ami died dee|ily laiiii'iited by his shipniiilcs. Happy arc they who die in the Lord. lie lie- uilcri'i'd in Northinuherluiii Sound. ! ,1 I.NSt'Ull'TIONS. 1 1 :i iE\, *nrrrti TO Tin: MKMDIIV OK ISAAC I'.IKNKTT, (■\riAIN OK TDK MAINTOl', (}KOR(n-: HARRISS, A.l«., SKAMAN, ok ii.m.s. assisianck, tlik latti^n attaciikij to ii. m.s. tkmjeu vionkkii. Isaac JU'unktt DEl'AUTKU This LlFli OX 28T1I JANUAUY, IH.')!, A OKI) 2H YKAltS. Oeokuk Hauuiss iJKrAiiTEi> Tins r.iVK ON Till-: liTII JANVAUY, IfS.')!, A(a!I) '.iO\ VKAIiS. liolli fell victims to scui'vv, nltliiim;li llic t'onui'i' liiliiiiircd pi'iiiiiirilv iiikUv !icoi'l)utit' lUloctioii of till' iuikli". Tlioir rciiiiiiiis lie iiitiTrcd on slioiv in DisasliT liiiy, wlirn- n.M.S. Assistiiiicr and tciidci' wiiitiTcd, IHoH-l. I!li'5: die in the Lonl. lO TUK ME.MOKY OK JOHN AMKS, A.I!., WHO UIEJl ON UOAliO II. M.S. tN\ KSTIOATOH, AT llAiaN( iJi.AMI, Al'lill. llTII, IH.");}, A(.i:l) 2!) VKAUS. $nrtfli TO THE AlKMOItY OK THOMAS MAin.KV, I'UIV.^TK I'OYAl, ^lAlilNK, WHO DIKI) SI llDKNl.Y ON llOAIlll n.M.S. KESOMTK, AT DEAl.Y ISLAND, OlTOIlKIt liJill, 1852, A(iKI) 111 VKAliS ; 'I.SO TO THE MK.MOUY OF GEORCK DROVER, lAI'TAIN OF THE KOUECASTl.K, WHO DIED ON IIOAHI) II. M.S. TENDER INTUEI'ID, AT DEAEY ISLAM), DECEMUEH 12T1I, 1852, AGED 28 YKAUS. TO Tin: MEMORY OF JOHN COOMBS, STOKER, II. M.S. TENDER INTUErU), \VUO DIED SIDDENl-Y WHILE TRAVKl.l.INC; NEAR I'OINT NIAS, M ELY I LIE ISLAND, MAY 12 in, 1853, AliED :{|. YEARS ; A I.SO Id HIE :memohv ok iJlO.MAS HOOl), IIIIVAIE ROYAL .MaKIKE, who died on hoard ii. .m.s. tender intrepid, OKK lAI'E (OC'KHI'RN, .1 \NI AKY 2NI1, 185 1-, \(.I.D ;il) YEARS. 1 ,r' W' ^t'A \i III I'lIK MKMDltV (II .lOlLX KKRK, lirNNKIt's MATl:, WHO J)li:i> ON IKIAIll) II. .M. sun- INMiSTlllATOH, \T II VliINd ISI.AMI, AI'KIl, l:tlll, 1JS5H, A(iKi) :m. Vl:VlfS; Also ro TlIJi MK.MOUY OK JAMES WILKIK, l('K-(irAHTKIiMASIi:i{, WHO 111 i: II ON Hiniji) II. M.S. Ti:\ur;u inikhimu, III'F CAPE COCKBrilN, ri;i!Ui Auv liNU, is.'il., \OKII :!H VKAIiS. *arrrli TO THE ilDMOIti' OP .IO]I\ UOYLK, A.J]., WHO DIKI) OX liOAIill II. M. t^llU- INVKSTIOATOIJ, XT UAIilNO ISLAM), M'lill. ()TH, 1853, UlKli 2'J YKAHS. I.N.SCIUI'TMtNs. *.irrfD lo iiii; jii:moi(v oi- TIIO.M.AS JI()R(i,\.\, AH., or ;l.M. SUM' INVISTKIAI'OIC, WHO iiii:i) ON itouni II. M. fillip Noltlll SIAII, \i' iii:i;iiu:y i>i.ami, MAV 22yi>, is,') I, A(ii:ii :m yi;Aiis. SacrrB lo Tin: .MMMonv or Mil. II. If. SMNSISrKY, MAii:, I ATE OK II. M. SHIl- IXVESTIOAIOK, WHO liu:i( ON llOAHD II. M. SHIP UESOl.lTi:, OKK (aim; COlKDrifN, NOVE.MIIKH I ITII. IS,");}, ■\riKll 2(! YKAKS. Ri'lifvi'd friiiii ciirllii, .-ori'OA, Wliicli (III tuv lii'.'irl liiilli pit'ss'd, I llmiiU till' (.'I'lillf liniid It!, inc Which lavs thi.s heart lo rest. m-'< [M)EX. Aiiilcrson's Hope, i. -JO. Xiironi, i. l7-"5, I?!'. Alcdlidl, cxiicriiiiciits oil, i. 211'.). Allici-I's, IViiiiT, Isliiiid, i. 2ss. Aclaiiil, .Mount, i. .'5,") I . Assistiiiii'c Spit, i. .'i.').'}. AiTcstcd, ('ii])(' Kdcii, i. .'iCiti. Al,iniiiiiaiitort, Mount, i. 121, 1(11. J5oat const nieted, i. 1:5 1 . Hritannia Island, i. 2Kt Biickinuhain Island, i. 'M)7). Hccr browinu, i- •5.'5".), ii. 7 I-. I5eccli"r, ('ii))e, pas>ed, i. ;5.j+. r.ellot, fate of, i. .'Jds, ij. ;} ; talilct, to, ii. 2:51. I5eeclie\ Island, dcspjiteli to, i. 7.'), .•{7I-; reach, ii. 212, 2s2. ' I5readalliane' nip|ied, ii. (1. l5lo\\ii out, ii. 2(1. I5ray, Alon.s. De, ii. l.")><. Coal, i. 10, 1 11. I'ape Wiilker, i. ."> 1 . Cape Vmk, i (1 1, (111. Cape Dudley Di;iL^es. i. (1>» Cape Warrender, i. 72. Cj'pe Uilev, i. 7s. Ca, • llo^'arth I'ih-, i, SI. ; <''.pe Heciier, i. ^.Vl. I Collinsoii, records of, ii. I'.it: n- niarks on, ii. 200, 21."). CVew.s, rciiiiineration of, ii. 20il. Cairns, i. lOO; materials for. i. 22."), 210; hollow, 2 71). Cornwall, North, i. 110. I Craeroft Island, i. 12(1, ' Clolhinjr for cold, i. 1(1."). I Cold, sensation of, i. 1(1(1: pe- ; riodsof, i. 217, ii. SI) ; extnine. ii. ')8, 101 ; mean of 27:! days, ii. 102. Clouds, hard-lined, i. 1(1!). Christmas, etc., i. I DO; faiv. i. l!)2, ii. 80. Cookiii^r ap|)aratns, i. 2:52. Cheyiie, laeiiteiiaiit, i. 2 Kl. j Cardin-an Strait, i. 2(1!). j CiitliiiLf out, i ;5I 1-. ' Critical |)ositio,t, Auu'. ISth. ii. 2 I I in iNi»i:\. ;■■ I I . T v: 1 1 • I. I ('lins:ili>. Itliirk, ii nil. Cork, iin-iviil, ii. v':i'.t Coiidiii^ris, ii. 17, 1 IHI. Cl'cw.s \\ itlidlMu , ii. ;i(i. Ciiltri' ciitlMHiiCi'id, ii. .'>;i. ."rvstiil I'iihic.', ii. .")'.», (■)(•). Cro-'s, prisiiiiitic, ii. !•»'. ('nicks, ii'c, ii. ll.") ; Iji'iducd, '211. Comiiiu' cvi'iits, 1. l.'':5. Curlici, cstiihli.sli, ii. 1:!."). Coii.^tiliilion, ii. l.'i'.t. Com'spoiidciicc, ii. I'.M). .Sr "kil- Iftt." Ct'iiotiipli, ii. -I'.W Heparliin' tVoiii '.Voohvicii, i. ii ; from (ircciiiiillic, i. i-'> : tVoiii the Noiv, i. i:',; IVdiii tiic Ork- neys, -",). ' Dcspcmtc' mid ' Hasilisk,' i. -n. ])();;■:-, Idsi', i. .")0, (I.'), M ; killed, 21-5 ; ncovcivd, •ii)i. Devil's Tlnimli, i. .")fl. Doekiiiii', i. 5;). Dudley 1 >i,u'|i'es, ('iijx', puss, i. (I'J. Deer traeks, i. 1(1.") ; seen, i. 'Mi)-. slidi, iiicluinl-, ii. .')!. Day, sliort, i. 1^1 ; lii;lit, i. 21;}; shortest, ii. v.). Death of marine, i. 21,') ; (ieorue llarriss, ii. i)0 ; l.saae Hurnett, ii. "J7 ; ' Resolute's' lieallli, and deaths, i. 117. DepAl i'oint, i. -Mo; (hpO'ts, IS.")!-, ii. 17''»; rohhed l»v Ksipiimaux, ii. 2:5."). Disraeli, Cape, i. 2(J(), 278, 2!)5. I)erl)y, Cape, i. 2(')!). Disappointment, Cape, i. 281. l)anu:er immiiient, i. 'ihf>. Driftwood, i. ;572. Dead men's ell'eets, ii. ',r.i. Dealy Island revisited, ii. I'.l"). Diindas, I'ort, barred, ii. 2ol. Disco, i. ;J2, ii. 2:Js. ' l",i(ler-(luek" hoat, i. lol'>. Ksiiuimaux, W halelish Island, i. :i2 ; (ape ^ ork. i I'l'i. li/ : 1ml-, It I. Hsmoutii Mand, i. In I, lis. Kscape from llnm;r\ i-land, i. l:i.-). I'ilectrii'al in-lrnm( iil>, i. 1 HI {•".(pdpment for tra\el. i. Id:!. Kvaporalion on iVee/ini;', i. \'i'i. Expedition, 18:)2, i. 121; Is.V;, 8.\V. i. 212; N.K. i. 2i:i. Kkins, (ape, i. ;{2.") ' i'airyale,' i. ;j(;:;. Kdeii, (Jape, i. iKi'l. I''ire at ie<'l)erii-, i. !•!». I'litlini;-, i. .')!. l'"ranklin. Cape, i. ss ; Cnpe i,ady, ii. •")2 ; iraei s of, foiuui, ii. 2 l!l. l'"()od, elteetions on, i. l.')2. I"illini:s of .\retie vessels, i. 1 I."), IS.-J, ii. Iti; result, ()8. I'Veezinii'expi'rinu'nts, i. 17") ; ale, i. 208; of lloe, ii. 75 ; in liot- tles, eil'eets of, 171), Frostbites, i. 201. l''eet-\vraii])ers, i. 221. i'ossil station, i. 272, 27''. formation, iieolo;;ieal, i. :US. I'ish, try for, i. :>;8. I""issnres, ii. J:!. Kloe, free/.in;j.- of, ii. 75. l'"ox, capture, ii. I2!l. I'oresee events, ii. 1:}:5. Final nu'asures, i, 2;i(l. (ireeidand, siu,ht, (Jreeidand, Fievely, i. :»5. (iame, relleetions on, i. (i!* ; killed, .Melville Island, i. .-517; abun- dance of, ii. 1;>^, l.")5. (las<•oi^•ne inlet, i. 81, ii. 1-7. Gold found, i. 125. (iale, i. 128, 155.; IStli .Vunust, i. 35(1 ; October, ii. 21, :5(l. (irove, n turn of, i. 2 MJ, ii. H , 12!). (iravc, Mount, i. 285, 2S7. (ieese. Brent, i. 2'.)(;. (ilaislier, snow ervstids, ii. ;)(i2. J i II" 1 INDEX. 417 Himiilton sk'dgc, i. 91, !»4, 117; depot, i. 2fiH, 297. Iliiiigiy IhIuikI, i. 127. Hares, i SS.'J ; sliot, ii. I'M. lIoiiHiiif;, ii. 8, H. Hospital, ' JMoiieer,' ii. 21. Hamilton, Lieutenant, ii. 48; ar- rive.s, 131., 199; revisits Mel- ville Island, Health of crews, ii. 77, 105, 205. Iceberg, tire at, i. 49. lee, enter, i. 42 ; aecuinulation, i. 101 ; old wavy, i. 230; break in, i. 120 ; overiappin;,', i. 121 ; disni])tion of, i. 128; cubes of, i. 150; disruption, ii. 23; nui of, li. 55 ; lifting powers of, ii. «3; erj-stals, ii. 298; cracks, ii. 9(5; gauge, ii. 122; table, ii. 123, 161; shock conveyecl by, ii. 163. Intelligence, Cajjtain Kellitt, i. 345 ; M'Chire, i. 338. Ingletield, ii. 5. Instructions, i. 1, ii. 34 ; Kiehards, ii. 109; Kellett.ii. 114; tinal, ii. 227 ; critical examination of, ii. 241 ; Appendix, ii. 268-283. ' Investigator,' ii. 35 ; position of, ii. 139, 149. Ice, experiments on cid)es, etc., ii. 295 ; cnstals, snow, ii. 298. Interments, Becchey Island. Fkk' Appendix, ii. 412. Jones's Strait, i. 273. Jenkins, Mr., accident to, ii. 212. Kellett, despatch, i. 345 ; instruc- tions, ii. 114 ei scq.; proceed- ings, report of, ii. 136; opinions, 149 et seq. ; order to .ibandon, ii. 166. Krabbe, proceedings of, ii. 197. ' Londesborough' sledge, i. 91, 118; racing game, ii. 99. VOL. IJ. Land's Knd, i. 1 13. Lamps, cooking, i. 233. Loney, Mr., i. 245; despatched, i. 313. Lyall, Dr., i. 300. LcmniiiigH, i. ;,24. Leopold, Port, barred, ii. 233. Lievcly, i. 32 ; revisit, ii. 238. Melville V>i\\ and Monument, i. 5 1. Mugnetonu'ters, i. 140; disturb- ance, i. 174, 179. Mercury freezing, i. 19s, 205. Musk-oxen, i. 315. M'CIure, i. 331, 338. Malt and hops, i. 339. Mustard ami cress, i. 341, ii. 76, 172. Messes' nuittoes, ii. 82. M'Clintock arrives, ii. 165. Men power determined, ii. 185. Mcecham, proceedings of, ii. 191. Meteorological tables, ii. 306 el seq. Nipping ' i{esolute,' i. 52 ; escj i. 370;' Regalia,' i. 56; M'(. Ian, i. 60. Notices, c()])y of, i. 85. Nortliumbcriand Sound, i. 87. Noises of ice-cracks, i. 197, ii. 78. Napier Bay, i. 327. Natural history, i. 363. Navy Eoard Inlet, visit to, i. 2 ipe, el- 70, 35. Orders, i. 1-11, and Appendix, 2():5 to 283 ; Captain Kiehards, ii. 41; Kellett, ii. 114, 136; abandon, ii. 1()6; senior, Bee- chey Island, ii. 207. Orkneys, amvc, i. 26 ; leave, i. 29. Open water, reach, i. 72, 116, 272, 299, 329, 365. Observatory, i. 122. Overland march, i. 273. Oxen, nuisk, i. 315, ii. 46. Ogle, Cape, 321. 2 p 'W i m lis INhKX. 'I ! ,1 I T i ill ' ' 1 .: ,i • ' 1 ■ ()«l)()rn IMi.i'il, i. ;(,■)(». :nK .'{77, ii. I INH I'oiiil, i. II.'). i'iiriiHi'li'iiM, i. Iii7. I'iniicliii, i. 2~'7. I'nii.Tss Itoval lsliiii(l,i.2r)5,:J'.»7, .•512. I'lnkcr .Mouiil, i. 2f)(l, -iirs. i'tiiriiiiu,'!iii, i. 2S2. I'ilc, |Mcii!iiii\ i. 2'.tl. I'clililcs, rouiidrd, i. :J17- I'liilcii, CoMmiaiidi'v, visit dI'. i. :5r)l, ii. -M, K). I'diM lltfimv, i. ;5.")7. riMi'iiix (irpots, ii. 7; iirrival of, 22(). I'iiin|)s, iiii', ii, 20. i'l'oc(i(liil;^s (if kcllctt, i. .'{i.') ; ol' Itii'hiii'ds, ii. tl. I'ini, Liciilciiiint, iii'ridciil to, ii. 12!», 182. I'lirclmscii, mode of, ii. 187. ' I'ioiici r,' til tor siTvii'f, ii. 2()S. I'oiid's r.iiy, visit, ii. 2:{(). I'rovisioiis, iiiid opinions oi\, .\|)- l)(iidix, ii. 2s !•. Qui'cn'-i ('liu. ' iJcjiiiiia' ni|)[)cd, i. .')(>. liotuvs, i. CI. niciiiirds, Ciiptain.i. 1 ('('., 188; de- parts, i. 221 ; rcpor' on, i. 215."), ' Hcsoiutr" rcaclifd, ii. i',) ; posi- tion ol", ii. IK) ; insfciirily of, ii. It2; duaths, ii. 117. Itiin of ice, ii. i')."). Wain, ii. VM, l.">7. Iirninniration, ii. 2l)li. Kfviiw of iniasiircs adopted, ii. UU. \{i\v, rctnrn of, etc., ii. 2I'8 ; opi- nion on ri'iKirt, ii. 2.-)(l. [{(■wards for discovery, ii. 2.')8. Sailiiifr iiistnictions, i, 35. Stromu(!ss, (jnit, i. 2i>. Steamers, ])art eoniijany, i. 30. S\iii'ar-loaf, i. ^)1. Sliip, fraL:iuent of, i. 371. Snow, red, i. (■)7 ; wreath, i. 1.")') ; drift and denndalion, i. Itll ; crystals, i. 17s ; lilindness, i. 2.")'.» ; elfect of wind on, ii. 8(i ; crystals, ii 2'.t8. Sijiiadron divides, i. 83. Sicduc-t ravel, i. HO; inspected, i. 220; ri-of, i. 22!). Shcllaheer, ii. !). Ship, retnrn to, i. 121, 13(5. Steam nj), ()etol)er, Ii. 31. Slirimps, aiiatomi<"al, i. 143. Stiinn-power, i. 375. Sonnds, eraekinf^, ii. 70. Sun (lisa|)pears, i. 1 5 1 ; re-appcars, i. 21!, ii. (;2. Senrvv, ii. Dl, lOl. ii. 51- ; departs, ii. 108; instrnc- Sylvester apparatns, i. 162, ii. (53. tionsto, ii.lO!); return.s, ii.171-; departs on .south-west search, i. 212, 330; retnrn, i. 3H. Uefraetion, i. 303. llavine water, i. 310. Race tide, i. 320. l{eturn to ship, i. 338. l{ookery,('a))eSim])kinson, i. 3t)0. iJefuH'c I'ort, i. 357; <'ut ont of, i. 301. Uendczvous ordered, i. 82; found, ii. {■5. Uaeinii ganu', ii. !)!). Seasons, ii. 131. Seiiools established, i. 170. Sainsbnrv, Lieutenant, death of, ii. 15.3. Society of Arctic Enii;iueers, i. 171. Shooting partv, ii. 171. Short days, i.'lSl, 189. Snow, temperature beneath, ii. 173, 175. Strait, Cardigan, i. 209. Ship, lifting of, ii. 177; cutting out, i. 3-1-I', ii. 187. Stanh'y, Cai)e, i. 209. INDEX. 41U Springs, land, flow, ii. 201.. S(Miiuliii^'s, no, four Innidrcd fa- thoMis, i. 270. Supplifs, iiiul opinions on, Ap- pcmlix, 281. Sleeping hn