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Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. IS L'exemplaire film6 fut reproduit grdce d la g6n6rosit6 de: Bibliothique, Ministire de la Defence Nationale Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin. compte tenu de la condition et de la nettetd de l'exemplaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimn A n 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 /. - ri^^:--' : :* '■■ nt. ^.Ji'. I 4* W H, ^ I ■J "W: wmivnyv. OT- A Vr»V l«/K HOUND t'ilK WOHLD, Vh>ifl:>w\li%(i (>■ 1 mk %AJKm-i-^ smr si^ii'iiiiR, ;vw ;■*-$#• v^'^.Ai.e .-^t^- ^m- I- ^;U H. -*'|:lU:TiUNh n CHINA, ■^ ^ ^.i s. H: ^3^ ^w^ftt*--^' <>*'^., ■ »i;:=f '^-w^i^siij* ;^j H?r Hofts^s y*o .%. f OTfimiSSlOHit!; .^T ■*^*« -U'it* '1 ^^ V, .ii-iM ; -: t i)f .\i > -rt-i' ,K R. ^. J^ • ", /»!,.? .sn -^ vui. H '- I' ->: '^ ^■*r m> ■M .1 ^'^:^,-- :*i>S; m ¥ * m' ii •■S!9V»m45.' ***■- y*#v 5?\l .:«.,. NARRATIVE X OF A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. PERFORMED IN HER MAJESTY'S SHIP SULPHUR, DURING THE YEARS 1836-1842. INCLUDING DETAILS OK THE NAVAL OPERATIONS IN CHINA, FROM DEC. 1840, TO NOV. 1841. ijluliltisl^e]) unticr tj^e ISLvtlfmija of tjbe S,ort)f( ®ommi0titoner9 of tj^e ^Omiraltj). BY CAPTAIN SIR EDWARD BELCHER, R.N. C.B., F.R.A.S., &C. COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. XL LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. ] 843. M ^.\^^ t f LO>fl>ON : ti. ,1 I'AI.MKK, rUlNTEK, hAVOY hTHEKT, STRAND. CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME. CHAPTER I. Anchor in Matavai Bay— Shift to Papeete—" Jim." the pilot- Chiefs Itoti and Paofai— Visit queen Pomare — Her husband — Legal discussions — King-consort impeached — Reconciliation — Native dances— Cruelty of king— Quit Tahiti— Noon-tide disproved — Touch at Huaheine — Visit Raratonga — Mr. Buza- cott, the missionary — The chiefs — Market regulations — Dis- eases— Quit Raratonga .... Page 1 CHAPTER II. Visit theFeejees — Ship strikes — Rudderdamaged — Reach anchor- age— Visit of Missionary — Starling despatched to Tibooka — Measures adopted with the natives — ^Town of Rewa — Fight- ing bourri canoes — Phillips and chief of Rewa — Kindness of Commodore Wilkes — Rivers of Am-ba-ou — Implements of war — Captured chief — Mode of dressing hair — Leekee worn by women — Discussion relative to missionaries and their adoption of the Christian Religion— Invasion of Banga — Canni- balism— Garingaria — Reach Port Resolution — Unpleasant position of missionaries from Navigators — Natives troublesome — Awkward predicament — Habits and dress of natives —Quit Tanna ...... 35 IV (•(JNTKNTS. CHAITEU III. Quit Port Resolution— Tnnim— Pass Krromango — Arrive off Island of (lundaleaimr — Dangers of Guadalcanar— Proceed \o Port Carteret — New Ireland — Examine Port Gower and Turtle Bay— Visited by natives— Quit Port Carteret— Pass Duke of York's Island — Visited by canoes — Articles brought for traffic — Mother and Daughter — Proceed towards New Guinea — Sighting Elizabeth Island and Admiralty Group- Pass the Britannia Islands, discovered in 1795 — Land, and survey Port Victoria — Visit of natives — Thermal springs- Quit Port Victoria, and examine coast of Guinea— Structure of canoes — Pass " Los Crespos" — Anchor off Arimoa — Visited by natives — Habitations — Floating islands — Reach island of Jobie — Description of it — Quit Jobie— Pass Goelvink's Bay — Fix position of jMiddleburg and Amsterdam — Land at Pigeon Island — Dam pier Strait— Pass Ceram — Anchor ui Cajeli Bay — Bouro — Quit, and reach Amboina . . ^7 CHAPTER IV. Amboina — Flattering reception by the governor — The rajahs — Visit a cavern — Mode of travelling — Grotesque attendants — Society — Fishing trammels —Chinese town — Garrison — Capa- bilities and government of the island — Return to Bouro — Cajeli Bay examined — Passage to Celebes, Macassar — Fort — Situation of the Dutch — Solombo — Pulo Kumpal — Singapore — Receive orders to proceed to China — Prosperous state of Singapore — Palawan passage — Starling struck by lightning — Manila — Transports with invahds — Indisposition of the au- thorities towards them — Join the squadron at Chuenpee 107 CONTENTS. CIIAITKR V. Naval force in the Canton river — The forts of Chucnpee and Ty- cocktow attacked — Destruction of the war-junks — Preparations for forcing the Bocca Tigris — A barhcr surgeon made prisoner — Turned to account — Operations suspended — The captured forts given uj) — Scpiadron descends the river — Take possession of Ilong-kong — IlostiUties resumed — Return to the Bocca Tigris — A l)attery constructed on South Wangtong — The forts of the 13occa Tigris camionaded and stormed — Cruelties of the Sepoys — Ascend the river — Affair of the First Bar Fort — The (Cam- bridge burnt — Uiunask a battery — A man killed — Take pos- session of *' Ilowqua's Folly" — Chinese ehnrges for a gnu — Operations in the river, and before ('antoii — Another truce and its 'remarkable terms — The Commodore goes to Calcutta. .139 CHAPTER VI. Examine the channels of the river — A fresh rupture — Treacherous edict — Many boats and junks destroyed — Reconnoitre for landing troops — Preparations for the advance on Canton — Storm the heights— Camp deserted — Casualties — Truce- Me- morial— Chinese view of affairs — Memorial of Yishan to the Emperor — Reception of the terms of truce — Death of Major Beecher — Approach of the Chinese — The ransom paid — Pre- mature death of Sir Le Fleming Senhouse — Commodore Sir J. Gordon Bremer returns — Typhoon — The Plenipotentiaries in the hands of the Chinese — Procure freedom by ransom 1/3 CHAPTER VII. Arrival of Admiral Sir W. Parker and Sir H. Pottinger— Distri- bution of the force — The Chinese re-fortify the Canton river — Sulphur detained at Macao — Arms clandestinely supplied to the Chinese — Madagascar steam-vessel wrecked — Feelings to- VI CONTENTS. wnrds tho English — Varidus boats in use — Quit tlio China waters — lU'tnrn to Singapore— ('liniatc — Geology —Malacca — Pinnag — Acheen — Malays — Conduct of the Sultan — Obser- vations ...... 227 CHAPTER VIII. Ceylon — Point de Galle — ('limate — Sail again — Numerous ma- rine animals — Natural history — Anchor at Port Victoria, Se- chcllcs — Partiality of the seamen for cocoa-nuts — State of Victoria — Black ])0|mlation — Description of the Sechelles from their almanack— Mah^ — Monsoons — Cession of the islands to England — Terms of capitulation — Political and commercial importance — Woods — Quit the SdchcUes — Majambo Uay, Madagascar — Appearance of the coast — Natural history — Ab- sence of natives — Sail for the Cape of Good Hope — St. Helena — Ascension — Cape Blanco — Arrival in England — Liberality of the Admiralty — Paid off — Conclusion . 2C3 APPENDIX. Nicaragua Convention with the Emperor of Russia Marquesas Kuikahi 303 308 313 323 The Regions of Vegetation, being an Analysis of the Distribution of Vegetable Forms over the surface of the Globe in connexion with Climate and Physical Agents, by Richard Brinsley Hinds, Esq. ..... 325 V ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE SECOND VOLUME. ENGRAVINGS. Attack on the M'ur- Junks, ut C'luienpee Creek Frontispiece^ 'i'hoka-nanta (or Pliillips) and Garingaria, Jirotliers of Chief Ilcwa, Feejee Group .... PrtyelG* Natives of Port Victoria, Britannia Group, New Guinea . 80* Native of New Guinea .... Bow of a State ('anoe. Island of Juhie, New Guinea Prahu of Geby . . Native of Celebes .... Native Women of Celebes Attack on First Bar Battery, Canton River Chinese Soldiers, with Giugals Chinese Soldiers at Great Guns 82- 92* io:j • 123. 125* 15;> 158' VIGNETTES. State Canoe Rewa Canoe Native of Bugis Prahus of Macassar Hand of Barber-surgeon Chinese Trading-junk Salt-junk , Fast-Boat . Tea-Boat . 19 . 43 . 124 . 126 . 145 . 23fi . 237 . 238 . 239 CHAPTER I. Anchor in Matavai Bay — Shift to Papeete — " Jim " the pilot — Chiefs Itoti and Paofai — Visit queen Pomare — Her hnshand — Legal discussions — King-consort impeached — Reconciliation — Native dances — Cruelty of king — Quit Tahiti — Noon-tide disproved — Touch at Iluaheine — Visit llaratonga — Mr. Ihiza- cott the missionary — The chiefs — Market regulations — Dis- eases— Quit llaratonga. VOL. II. B c t] \V el th he M. VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. CHAPTER I. Having so lately quitted the American continent, and particularly Nuliuhiva, the scenery of Tahiti did not so much interest us, as the assistance we looked for in refitting, added to the rest and amusement after our late fatigues. I landed on Point Venus, perhaps with feelings totally incomprehensible to any on board. Fourteen years before, on the very spot where Cook was en- camped, I had bivouacked for several days. I was then a lieutenant, now a captain ; and I looked for- ward to my labours, which were there to be resumed, with an anxiety only to be experienced by those charged with similar duties. The question as to the increase of the Dolphin shoal since 1826 was my hobby. Next came the determination by actual experiment of the tidal question; Kotzebue and B 2 «NMI^*i ANCIIOU AT PAPEETE. [1840. IJeeclu'y having assorted a noon high water. Magnetic (lata Mere looked to Mith anxiety ; and T was now to enter the field where so many talented men had preceded me. Furnished with well-tested instru- ments, perseverance alone was required. In addition to these considerations, I expected to meet with those who had befriended me in 182G, and I hoped ])0s- sibly to be of service to their country. Having obtained the necessary data for securing the meridian distance, we moved, on the morning of the 5th, through Toanoa channel to Papeete. This channel in the Blossom's day was deemed im])assable, but is noM' the common entrance, the French frigate, I'Artemise, having entered by it. On entering the reefs, the boats of thirteen Ame- rican whale ships came to our assistance, and, aided by a light air, we were taken through in good style by our jiilot " Jim," of notoriety in Beechey's work. As a native pilot, he deserves great credit, and acquits himself with far more coolness and decision than many Europeans. At twenty minutes past eight we dropi)ed anchor in Papeete Bay, followed shortly by the Starling. Before entering the narrows, the chiefs, Paofai, Itoti, and the husband of the queen's mother, paid me a visit. I was much surprised at their loss of caste. In former times they were the essence of propriety; now they were reduced to compete with the other natives for the washing of linen, even in their fancy uniforms. \ 1840. 1S40.] VISIT TIIK (lUEKN. .fflietlC s now n l>atl instvu- ildition \\ tbosi' 'd ])os- Bcuring iiiiig of Jeeiiied HOC, tlic y it. Ill Ame- , aided 3d stylo s work, ilit, and decision es past followed Paofai, \er, paid loss of 3ence of ete with even in 'i The consnl, Mr. IVitchard, innnediateiy paid nie a visit, and we proceeded together, abont noon, to visit qnecn Pornare, then residing at her country estahlishinent, at Papawa. She has been married witliin the last six years to a young chief at llua- heine, by whom she has two sons wlio are living, the <'l(lest about three years old. I expected, as an old acciuaintance, to have met with a cordial reception, but I subsequently learned that she had been so much harassed by threats of ven- geance from various nations, that she hardly knew wiiether I had not come to make some new demand for satisfaction. However, this soon wore away upon the exi)lanation of Mr. Pritchard, and she readily assented to my making use of the small island, Motu-utu, to land our stores, &c. during the operations of caulking and replacing some copper. Her api)rehensions removed, she immediately moved 4lown to her new house at Papeete. Her husband, of whom, however, she is very fond, is a great scamp, and is causing much trouble in the island. Owing to the caulking and other disagreeables on board, I took up my abode at the house of the (lueen's aunt, where I erected my observatory, and superintended the building of a new boat. Unfortu- nately, there were several whalers in port, refitting, and it was not until the sixth day after our arrival that we could obtain any aid from artificers, our own being nearly useless or sick. Those who eventually came, performed about half as much as we were accustomed to in civilized countries. ■xis '1- la { 6 LEGAL DISCUSSIONS. [1840. Representation having been made to me that there were several cases where British subjects had opposed the verdict of Tahitan juries, and the queen and chiefs having sohcited my advice thereon, a public meeting of the chiefs was convened. Upon the questions which were brought for- ward for my consideration, I had only direct an- swers to give, confirming the sentences in accord- ance with their laws, and expressing my surprise that they should have hesitated in carrying them vigorously into execution, when they had the .is- surance of the British consul that his government would not countenance any opposition to them. Some discussion, however, threatened to arise, in con- sequence of their putting " home questions" which bore severely on the conduct of foreigners present. But these I avoided, by answering as for British subjects only, or the British consul, — promising any private advice they might wish at a future occasion. Upon one decision against a British subject, viz., that of a young man wno had forcibly retained the wife of a native, I was applied to by the de- fendant for redress, inasmuch as he had acted under the authority of the queen's husband, who had given the woman a paper desiring her to go and live with this young man, and say " that he told her to do so." As this was a manifest usurpation of authority, and the parties had thus been led into error and fined for it, I enclosed the documents to the queen and chiefs, requiring them to look into the matter, and tl 1840. } that ;s had queen lereon, it for- get an- accord- lurprisc r them the as- rnment • them, in con- ' which present. British ing any jcasion. ect, viz., retained tlie de- id under id given ive with to do uthority, md fined een and tter, and 1840.] KINCJ-CONSOUT IMI'KACIIED. adding that as they had talked so mnch about their laws being disregarded by foreigners, it was incumbent on them to see that they were not brought into contempt, l)y l)eing tampered with by one of their own body. The affair was taken up with spirit. The queen (although not without a struggle) gave up her hus- band to the law, and issued a summons to the seven supreme judges. When they had assembled, tlu; young king-consort refused to appear, and after much noise and excitement, the conference was put off until it could be more solennily conducted, by summoning all the chiefs of Eimeo, as well as those of Tahiti. Upon their assembling, the king again refused to appear, backed by the lowest order of foreigners living on the beach, who were interested in setting the laws at defiance. At length the queen, to prove her sincerity, and tliat she would not screen him, requested that the judges would adjourn to the palace, and try him there. Th's was accordingly done. On my passage thither, I had an opportunity of witnessing some of the manoeuvres which were at- tempted in order to foil the trial. Indeed, some of the braggadocios talked largely of going in a body to protest against the proceedings. They were the beach rabble before alluded to. They had not the courage to appear, and the judges proceeded to select a jury. They were about to proceed to trial ; the king having submitted, and appeared. As I per- I'.l REC(>NCILIATI(»N. [1H40. :l yi ceivcd this would att'onl a good opportunity for tiic judges to give liini a lecture, wliieli opportunity might be lost after the trial, I expressed niys(df (as far as I was concerned) " satisfied that he had at length seen his error, and submitted to the laws of his country, and that I merely wished the judges to point out to him, in the i)resence of the queen, chiefs, and people, his total inability to interfere with the government : that he was merely the queen's husband, and by the laws of the island was not even entitled to the authority of a chief. This had an almost electric effect. Taatee and Utamme, the two oldest chiefs, immediately stepped forth, and in the most energetic language, told him his faults, anci finally exhorted him to stay more at home, and look to the interests of the queen and their children. The several chiefs who had secretly opposed me, and supported the ultras, now stepped forth, and were lavish of " soft sawdfjr." In fact, the tables were entirely turned. To conclude the matter, I immediately offered the king and queen my hand, and invited them, together with Taatee and Utamme, to dinner on board, where they enjoyed themselves rationally and happily, and were entertained by fireworks from the island. Much to the chagrin of the disaffected, they were for this night entirely cut off from their society and machinations. Having put upon paper answers to several (pies- I r [1840. 1840.] IIULA-IIULA. 0 for the >rtiiuity myself he had [\e laws 3 judges ) queen, uterferc queen's lot even [itee and stepped :old him more at iieen and )sed me, rth, and le tables hI offered them, nner on iially and ks from saffected, om their Mill (jues- tlons, rehiting* to the proper course to be pursued against turbulent foreigners, and pointed out how far they would bo listened to by foreign powers when complaining of their subjects, I left them in i)eace and harmony, and moved the ship to Point Venus, in order to complete our magnetic observa- tions. Shortly after our arrival the king joined us, and seemed determined to sep.viate himself from his former acquaintance. In the evening, a linln-hula, or native dance, was performed before us, by fifty young men and boys, dressed a la mUitaire^ in blue, with white trimmings. The day following the queen arrived, and a similar exhibition of ladies and gentle- men took i)lace, the former all in white, with very neat straw bonnets. Both j>arties went through the performance of the luda-huki with great spirit ; but the dresses were rather inconvenient to both sexes. One young lady, with shoes and white stockings, finding them incon- venient, first threw away the shoes, and shortly after the stockings followed. The hula-hula of the present day is entirely free from objection. It is merely a display of extraor- dinary activity, the acme of which is an instantaneous .and sinudtaneous stop when at the highest pitch of ex- ertion. It is what might be termed a romping dance. After all this gaiety, I was much surprised, on the day following, by a visit nom the consul, who, to my astonishment, informed me that he was the bearer of 10 CRUKLTY OF QUEKN S HUSBAND. [184(K a niossa<^(< from tlio queen, intreutin^if my ntay until the May meeting, (on the Wechiesday followinit*-,) as the king, in a fit of intoxication, had treated tiio <|ueen in a most brutal maimer, in the liigh road ; havint,'- attempted to kill her with a stone. IJeing foiled by her female retinue, and two young men who were passing, he had seized her by her hair, and had it not been for those about, dcjubtless would have destroyed her. The queen fled to the house of a cooper, where she was concealed. It appears that he had fallen from his horse in a fit of intoxication, and she had rushed to his assistance with all the warmth of affection, which was thus repaid. On his return to the house, he destroyed all her presents of dresses, bonnets, ornaments, &c., and attempted to fire the house. It was the professed intention of the queen " to move for a divorce, and that he be re- turned to Iluaheine." The consul immediately took the queen under his protection, and having requested my interference, I assured her that four days' delay was important to me, but if she would assure me of her determination to rid herself of such a dangerous and detestable character, and immediately summon the judges, I would not only wait, but also convey him to his island (Huaheine.) To my utter astonishment, the consul informed me the day following, that she had forgiven him, and returned, thanking me in the warmest terms for my attention. I I [1840. [ly unvil •ing,) as itecl the ;U road ; Being nff men Hair, and uld have use of a ?ars that (xication, 1 all the id. On presents nipted to [on of the e be re- inder his rencc, I ortant to mination etestable udges, I 1 to his jinformed him, and s for my € 1840.] rouoivixc; disposition or i'omaki:. 11 Poor woman ! I am afraid this is hut a beginning of such scones. Two most unprincipled chiefs, Iletoti and Poafai, are well known to bear her mor- tal liatred, and if tliey can excite the husband to do tiicir will, she will probably fall, and he will then inevitably become their victim. Pomare is now growing old for a Tahitan, being al)ove twenty-eight, and very corpulent. She ap- l)ears to be very fond of her children, and to feel nnich for her unprincipled husband, althougli for months tliey scarcely speak. Her forgiveness on this late occasion s])eaks volumes for her kindness of heart. She is at times, however, violent and j)assi()nate, as I have noticed in her arguments with the consul. She does not possess one single trace of the ])retty little girl I recollect as Aimatta in 182(5. I had frequent opportunities of seeing her in the midst of her retinue at Papeete, as she occasionally stop|)ed to take tea at my quarters. One division w ere admitted to table; the second division sitting in the verandah. On these occasions her manners were very pleasing, and care appeared to be banished. I endeavoured to entice the husband to join us, but without success. With respect to the present condition of the Tahitans, it is my decided o[)inion, that with the introduction of dress, the peculiar religious feeling which I noticed in 182G has vanished. They w^ere then simple in the extreme ; they are now compara- tively civilized. The introduction of foreigners has t\ ■^ ff \'2 HV\T MA'IAVAI. [l!S40. hntki'iHlown tlic Ic^al hsirri'M' wliicli restmiiu'tl tlu'in. I iiiucli rc^MvttiMl that I could not he |»r(»H<'iit ut tlifir May nu'i'tiii*^. It iw iniilar to our parlianK'ul, and our prcsi'iico iul<(lit luivo uHslstiMl in tlu' intro- duction of lawM for the conif«)rt of the wcll-dis[»os('d. I liad no (d)jirt in view; Init the ciiit^fs of all parties, as well as the missionaries, wislunl my presence. On the eveniii*;- of the Hth, we (piitted Maitavai I iay, and shaped our course for Iluaheine, in the hope of Hading an anchor said to have been left there. The course of tidal experiments at Pa])eete, as well as l\)int Venus, negative the noon high-water. Dolpiiin shoal has not increased since 1820, nor had it at that date altered from the account given by Wall is or Cook. On the other hand, two coral patches, discovered by me in the lilossom's visit, have ilccrcdsed, and are now hardly to be found. Tiie new channel into Papeete exhibits a clearing .iway of coralline obstructions, and the formation of a deep channel. The Blossom could barely enter Toanoa ; noiv^ a line of battle ship can enter easily. The spot where the consul's house then stood is no more: vessels may ride there. Surely here is no evidence of the astonishing activity of lithophytes. Hardly had we cleared Point Venus, when, for the first time during our visit, it rained heavily, and did not clear up until after midnight, when we cleared the island of Eimeo. Shortly before sunset on the day following we rounded the point of Iluaheine, and woidd i)robably have anchored had the wind favoured i I lmI tlu'in. resent at rliainent, he intro- (liHiMJsed. II i)urtit'8, uce. Matavai tlie hopo Dheiv. ;o, aH well ,er. IS'20, nor t oiveu l)y two coral om» visit, ind. Tlio iring away of a s constantly fed by the clouds, afford nu- merous streams ; one enters the sea at the landing- |>lace, which, although apparently open to the sea, and edged by reefs on either hand, seldom throws in a ri|)ple to hurt a boat, excepting in the bad season or S.W. monsoon, when the breeze blows in. The island is infested by myriads of the mantis, which com])letely strip the cocoa-nut trees of their leaves, and eventually destroy the tree. The tamanu attains a great size ; one tree I noticed near Mr. Huzacott's house, divided into two stems, but the bulk at the root would give the entire twelve feet pe spared ahiti and to peace alarm the o induce I trust rt regula- te every s commu- pirits are by pre- fter dark, to that of irkeys, ve- ire readily I diameter. Their state canoes are made from this tree, and are very beautifully carved. At the island c 2 1 20 I'ECULIAIl DISKASK. [184(». )i }l f- of Miiii^oa, bcloiioino- to this group, thoy arc fuiiuM! for tlioir cjirviii"-, |tjirti('ularly in fancy axe-handlos, re«enil)lin«»' in some degree the Roman fasces; several of wliicli, as well as mats and ta|)as of native workmanslH]), and other curiosities, were obtained here. By perseverance between the showers, we suc- ceeded in obtaining our suite of observaticms, by which we lind tiiat this island is])laced on the charts about fifteen miles too far west, and tAvo south, of its actual j)osition. As the ship could not find any safe anchorage, and Vavao had been selected as a rating i)osition, delay was out of the question ; therefore, taking leave of our kind friends, about four r. m. on the 15th, we took our departure with much regret. The natives are generally well-built, but of a coarser habit than our Tahitan friends. It ap- pears that in addition to the immense mortality which occurred in the time of Mr. Williams, a new nondescript disease has of late years presented itself amongst them, and is entirely confined to the native population. On its early presentation, the first symptoms, merely swelling of the glands of the throat, were considered certain monitors of speedy death, attended with great torture ; but latterly it has yielded to treatment. It is thus described by Mr. Hinds, our surgeon, who examined a case said to present a complete type of the disorder. " The accession is accom])anied by the usual [1840. 1810.] ITS CHARACTKR. 21 re faiiKMl -haiullos, fiisci's ; of iiJitivt' obtained we suc- [itions, by the charts I south, of lorage, and tion, delay (V leave of 3 15th, we but of a is. It ap- mortality lams, a new lented itself the native the first inds of the •s of speedy utterly it has ,ed by Mr. lase said to the usual 4 syini)tonis of fever, — ri«ifors, foll«>we(l ])y Iieat, dryiio>s to tlie eastward of their assigned j)osition. We tacked iiiiniediately, sig- nalled to warn the Starling, and at daylight sepa- rated to examine both sides, and continue a parallel course due west one hundred miles, in order to deter- mine if any second danger existed. By our survey, it ajjpears that this reef occupies an outline similar to that of a coral island, having an entrance to the N.W. All the mass of shoal water appeared to be contracted at its S.W. ex- tremity, but no rocks above water could be traced. The S.W. extremity was determined to be in lati- tude 20" 2' N., longitude 1G7° 49' W. ; which differs from that assigned to the shoal seen by Captain Nicholson. We termed it Lagoon Reef. Our course was then shaped for Vavao, the Uhgest northern island of the Hapae group, but by some navigators they are included in the Tonga group. At dayliglit on the 21st, we reached within ten miles of its northern point. The appearance of this cluster presented a complete archipelago, with many dangerous reefs off the southern extreme. We fully expected to reach our anchorage before nine, but after rounding the northern extremity, where by the chart we expected to find " Port Refuge," we continued to run down its western side until the openings seen from the eastward again presented 1H40.] I'URT HKFUGK. or, tlieniHolves. Throu^li tlieso opcniii^M, only, coultl wo I'xpect to find the port. IndoiMl, I luul iiliiioHt tUnci(!(l that wo had made a wrong landfall, and in order to Hocnro tlio meridian diNtance, I imniodi- ately landed on the nearest accessible station, and succeeded in saving latitude and time; the shi]) working to windward «luring the interval. A pilot, left l)y her Mfijesty's ship Cruizor, soon visited the ship, and having rejoined her myself^ about five miles to windward, we continued to beat through a labyrinth of islands, about six miles to the N.N.E., until sunset, when we dropped our anchor in the inner harbour, — the first ship or vessel of war that had anchored there. The titlQ of Port Refuge it certainly deserves when this anchorage is obtained. Few square rigged vessels, however, would reach our position. It is very difficult of access, and it is necessary after entering the islands to turn five miles to windward against a lee set, before an anchor can conveniently be let go, and this requires daylight. To a disabled or crippled vessel seeking refuge, this name is de- ceitful : she never could reach it. I merely allude at present to the outer anchorage, for nothing but small fore and aft vessels will at- tempt the inner harbour. The resident missionary, Mr. Thomas, accompa- nied by the master of the American whale-shij) Triton, immediately called, and afforded us all the information which might interest. From Mr. 2(J TUKATMRNT OF Till", NATIVK8. [1H4(». I) Tliomas wo learned " that ovvinpf to internal wars in tlio Ton^ni ^rouj*, ariHinp^ from t\w robollion of tlio luMitlion |>o])ulation, in opixtNition to Chrin- tianity, tho kinpf ((Joor^'c) and cliiofs had gono to aKsist tho lattor." Tiio prot ontirt; a,) mats, shells, and weapons, were brought for barter, but their prices, since tlie days of Cook, have materially in- creased ; cotton, cloth, and knives, were the only trading articles. Money they knew by name, but hardly under- stood its value; as they frequently demanded a dollar in lieu of a knife worth fourpence, and wert generally content with a real, (sixpence,) in lieu. The term dollar (or tarra) is here, as at Tahiti, intended to imply coin, and the immediate offer of the real, one eighth its value, was frequently taken with avidity. The manners of the natives appeared to be seve- ral shades superior to those of any of the islands v^e had visited, evidently resulting from a more determined character, and a reflective turn; pro- bably much assisted by their stricter adherence to Christianity, which at this particular moment of religids warfare, they feel it necessary to maintain with closer observance. At dawn and da^-^' the voice of prayer and singing may be heard from each house throughout the settlement, and on Sunday ,.,i-,j»(lB«*a»«»»«l«MSI»i«l«»llH«»»»»*«it.««.«. ;> ' i I ' 1 • ?^ ( i; ! i, )T I. Si lb \ I: 30 CAPTIVE CHIEF. [1840. tlie full chorus of natives afforded a very fair speci- men of their singing. The church is spacious, and tastefully ornamented with native mats on the rafters, much resembling printed calico. The interior of most of the mis- sionary and other houses, here as well as at the other islands in these seas, generally have the rafters, ten or fifteen feet upwards from the eaves, decorated in this manner. We saw but little of their workmanship, owing to the absence of the canoes, chiefs, and warriors. The few articles obtained v/ere inferior, excepting their household wares, consisting of mats, pillows, &c., which are very simple. The frequent visits of whale-ships have also drained the market. A state prisoner, " the heathen ki7ig" as well as his family from one of the islands, was in our immediate neighbourhood. T visited them, and gave them various presents. They were much dejected, and apparently very grateful for the notice bestowed on them. A very pretty little girl, either a daughter or relative, about six or seven years old, seemed to have much influence with the natives, and interested herself very much in bartering for us, and preventing undue demands. I presented her with various trifles, par- ticularly beads, which were useless in the market. On the day of our departure, she brought a number more of her own age, and literally commanded by her manner, that they should be similarly treated. As she was a princess, there could be no denial ! u [1840. ■ spcci- nented mbliiig le mis- e other ers, ten corated , owing t^arriors. :cepting pillows, it visits ill as his mediate 1 various arently em. A Irelative, e much herself undue es, par- market, number ded by treated, denial ! 1840.] (iF.OLOGY. 31 It is very strange, that although we have generally noticed beautiful children, we have seldom, if at all, seen a striking grown up beauty. When I took leave of this unfortunate family, several little presents were secretly sent to me through the pilot. That from the king was a piece of kava root, wrapped very carefully in tapa ; doubtless, a most splendid gift in his estimation, but if it had been detected in his possession, 1 was told that he would be severely punished. We had no opportunity of examining the coun- try, our arrival being on Saturday, and our depar- ture the evening following. The trees here do not attain the size of those in higher islands, but from their being thinner, they attain a much closer tex- ture. The Tamanu, although it does not attain a large size, is much superior in grain and beauty, to that of Tahiti or Raratonga. The highest range of land, all of which might easily be converted into one great garden, does not at any point exceed three hundred feet. The surface is very level, and the soil fine. The composition of the rock is a very close-grained limestone, contaiiiing large caverns, in which crystal- lized carbonate of lime, stalactites, &c., abound. In- deed, wherever the cliff is fractured a complete crystal- line structure is presented, in which shells, ?oral, &c. are frequent. At the outer position, where I ob- tained observations, I found many specimens of imbedded fossil nautilus. None of the nacreous m I . !i n .1' to \ I h ! 32 I'RODUCTIONS. [1840. substance remainod, but was replaced by crystallized carbonate of lime. The hardness of the rock, added to its broad flat surface, prevented me from obtain- ing more than a single specimen. At the sea level the water has worn away the outlines so much, that all the cliffs overhang the islands, presenting a mushroom form. The caving runs about ten to fifteen feet horizontally, by five or six vertically ; consequently, where the sea has much play, and the coast is exposed, landing is imprac- ticable. In some cases the overhanging mass has fallen away, and landing is facilitated ; but the deptj^g alongside these islands increase suddenly to forty fathoms or more. The supplies to be obtained at this island chiefly consist of yams, which were said to be the finest in these seas. The hurricanes have injured or de- stroyed the greater part of the fruit-trees, otherwise shaddocks and cocoa-nuts would be plentiful. I noticed but one indifferent shaddock, a few pines, cabbages, onions, and yams. But our arrival was hardly known in time, and Saturday is so completely devoted to cooking for the next day, that little was produced. Here again we met with the iron hand of the missionaries, for they rule the king, chiefs, and people. The system throughout these islands, of prohibiting even the necessary ablutions on the sabbath, is a stretch of feeling far beyond good sense. A cer- tain hour might be established by law, at which necessary labours should cease. too ;r : [1840. 1840.] ISLAXn OF LATTK. allizod , added obtain- vay the ing the ! caving jr five or as much imprac- nass has e depths to forty d chiefly ;he finest Id or de- )therwise ful. I w pines, val was »mpleteiy ittle was of the d people, ohibiting )ath, is a A cer- at which I Fish is either scarce, or other occupations prevent the people from seeking it. The groat depth of water also around these islands is anothtsr drawback. Were it not for this cause, this gronpo Avould afford some of the finest harl)ours in the world. ]5ut, excepting the inner harbour, I should not consider my ship pleasantly berthed, the dejiths decreasing suddenly from ten, sixteen and twenty-five to forty-five fathoms. Our stay was too short to admit of any survey being made. At three on the 23rd of May, we took our depai-- ture fromVavao, and had l)arely cleared the entrance when the breeze chopped round to S.S.W., pre- venting our making nuich headway. Final observations for rating were obtained at our first station, as Avell as the true bearing of the IVak of the island of Latte, which we were eventually enabled to fix, from a sea position, the day following. I am informed that very dangerous breakers extend a considerable distance from its western extremity. The positions fixed by us were, first, the outer Avhite-faccd point on the left side of entrance, which can readily be known by Ijeing the nearest to Nine-pin Island. It is situated in latitude 18° 38' N., longi- tude 1 74° 3' W. The second position at the town is in the King's Old Garden, latitude 18° 39' N., longitude 17o 55' W., variation 9° 34, dip 35*^ 7'. The island of Vavao is placed about sixteen miles too far to the souiliward, on Arrowsmith's charts. VOL. II. D i S ■ii CHAPTER II. Visit theFcejecs — Ships trikes — Rudderdamagccl — Reach anchor- age— Visit of Missionary — Starting despatched to Tibooka — Measures adopted with the natives — Town of Rewa — Fight- ing bourri canoes — Philhps and chief of Rewa — Kindness of Commodore Wilkes — Rivers of Am-ba-ou — Implements of war — Captured chief — Mode of dressing hair — Leekee worn by women — Discussion relative to missionaries and their adoption of Christian Religion — Invasion of Banga — Canni- bahsm — Garingaria — Reach Port Resolution — Unpleasant position of missionaries from navigators — Natives troublesome — Awkward predicament— Habits and dress of natives — Quit Tanna. D 2 ■■ ■-■■■"K,'.^'*«MM».i4;4J»A*,»';ii^4j( ;1 .1 •• i :{(J AllllIVAL AT FEEJEES. [1840. ci{xVPTi':i{ n. Light breezes from S.W. to S.S.E. prevented our making much progress. On the 26th, we made the easternmost of the Feejec (iroupe, about forty miles to the northward of Turtle Island, and passing through between the islands, were soon favoured with a fair wind. Previous to quitting Tahiti, we had been fortunate in obtaining information respecting this group, and particularly of several new islands not laid down, which are excellent guides to what is deemed the best harbour, Nukulau, on the southern side of Ambou. At noon, on the 27th, we passed the island of Matoke, and sha[»ing a course for Ambou, found our- selves, about two A.M., quite close enough to the breakers, tacking within sight and hearing of them. We had, not a moment before, had our attention ex- cited by lights, probably fishermen on the reefs, other- wise our position might have been hazardous. The to 1840. 1840.] LAND ON NUKULAU. :37 ited our lade the ty miles passing 'avoured brtunate )up, and d down, mcd the side of sland of »und our- h to the of them. a ition ex- M fs, other- ^ us. The 1 Jijrlits were iiistuntly witluh-awii, upon our sliowing li;»hts at our forevanlanii. At davli'rht the curroiit had set us considerably to the westward, and Just {is wi' l)ore up for tlie anchorage, the l)reeze lieaded us oft*. As this was followe])osed to be at anchor. In the meantime the rudder was hoisted in, and ju'cparations made for securing* it, in the event of her mission proving unsuccessful. Measures were taken to complete the survey of this port ; and the tents, &c., were pitched on the island of Nukulau, for obtaining the necessary suite of magnetic observations, &c. For several days we were beset by the natives, and were finally compelled to erect barrier lines, and appoint a guard to keep them at a proper distance ; not from ar.y troublesome conduct on their part, but the nature of the ob- servations did not admit of the vibrations caused ms o' his ' W-F I t \VV ^0 OAIUNOAKIA. [IS-IO. l»y siu'li mmiljcrw walkiii^^ to and IVo on tlic looso sand. Tlic kinn-'s brotlicr, (iarin-;i!i-ria, |>aid um a visit, in ordiT to ascertain what \\v conid pick nj), and minie- rous Hpcars, cjnl»s bown, arrows, and ornaments, wcro brono'lit for sale ; but, as customary with these people, thev were exorbitant in tlieir demands — whale's teeth, knives, &c., bein^- tiie ol)jects son^dit in ex- change. My object was first to secure i)i;is and yams for the crew, and then look for arms, curiosities, &c. Indeed, I had jiromised Pliillips, to await his return.^ Some few pi^s, yams, and fruit, were purchased. V'er- million uas found to be an article in ^^reat demand amon<;st the ladies ; 1 therefore /^ave them to mider- stand I should reserve this for shells, uhicli they were to seek on the reefs, and Avith vhich we were soon inundated : although none of them were of any value* Tile canoes boun;ioups from Manpu-sas to this island, that a native will seldom stooptopass/r/r/traline; andinmany cases rather than step over it, even when lyini«lly adhered to at Marquesas. I have my doubts if this line of demarcation \>' not oH'ensivc to them. Notwithstanding- the ettbrts of the crown lawyer, I found that nothing but " vi et nrmi.s " would i)reserve the boundary, and was comj)elled, therefore, to keep sentinels constantly on the alert. These interpreters alluded to are foreigners taken under the protection of dirt'erevxt chiefs ; they are, dc facto, their slaves so long as they are maintained, and are even compelled to feed their masters when the custom of the country, or their being placed under Tambo (or tabu) ^ vevents their touching their own food with their hands. I am sorry to say that Englishmen are amongst the (^' 42 TOWN OF UKWA. [1840. n li ii'imber. One of tlieso, tlie Ainericjui black, T took into my service during our stay, as interpreter, and he behaved satisfactorily. Finding that the king was afraid to visit the ship, in consequence of my failure in visiting the town of llewa, I determined on sacrificing a few hours and paying him a visit ; as, until he was propitiated, there was no chance of obtaining the necessary supplies of hogs and vegetables. I therefore started, taking Mith me Lieut. Monypenny. The distance to the town of Rewa from the anchorage is about six miles, and two to the mouth of the river, studded with uni)leasant sand banks, over which there is about three feet at low water, and on which the capricious rollers at times suddenly bestow a ducking. After entering the river, the channel at low water becomes tortuous, and the drain generally boars out, although the main-banks are about four hundred yards asunder. The canoes are generally forcvid up by poles, similar to punting on the Thames. The town of Rewa is situated about half a mile from the bank of the river, on th j right bank of a creek, Mhich shoo(s off' abruptly from the main stream the width of the creek .at that point not exceeding- one hundred yards. The houses, which overlook the creek in some places, are firmly constructed with posts, which do not viae more than seven feet from the earth. On these arise very lofty j)itc]ied roofs, varying from m \\ 1840.] FIGHTING BOURIIL 43 twenty-liv to thirty feet in height, and in soire instances thatched to the thickness of ttvofeet. The doors are small, excepting in the state-house, and resemble windows or ports; those in elevated mouiias with ditches remind one strongly of block-houses. In the State-house the resemblance is rendered still closer by the presence of two ship guns, as if prepared for >var; certainly not very appropriate chamber companions. The establishment of the king is situated upon a bend of the creek, the houses of his queens occupying the water-side, and his own being in an open area, in which also is the house of his principal queen, the tomb of his father and brothers, and the " fiffhtin"- Bourri," or temple. This latter is a small building about twelve feet square, erected upon a mound of about ten feet elevation. The thatched roof is very steej, probably thirty feet, across the sunmiit of which is a pole jirojecting about three feet at eacii 44 KINGS PALACE. [1840. r v/ I* * 011(1, studded with brilliant white porcellanic shells. (Oviila ovum.) Their canoes are similar to most of those belong- ing to the low islands, very long and narrow, fur- nished with outriggers, and a convenient house on a platform. Vide wood-cut. The house of the king (or more properly chief of Rewa, be being subordinate to the king at Obalau) is one of the most filthy in the town. Its dimensions are )out sixty feet in length by thirty Avids. Two thirds of it is Avell clothed with mats and kept clean ; the remainder may be considered the cooking and eating hall, &c. Three immense iron caldrons, probably intended for a whale-ship, together with other earthen vessels for l)oiling, occu])y the cooking s<|uare. The king and iavourite queen were seated upon a range of mats immediately contiguous to the fire, and on entering invited us to do the same. Shortly after, a roasted hog and vegetables wei'e introduced, and we were invited to partake. As they had neither knives, forlvS, nor plates, I followed their motions, rather than the chiefs should take fresh ottence, and our journey prove fruitless. The carving of this hog was most adroitly per- formed by the " carver general," a professor^ with a piece of slit bamboo, which by-the-bye was first cut into shape with a steel knife ; therefore I suspect etiquette demands that the bamboo should be pre- ferred. The king's barber, tastei-, &c, (or I suppose 1840.] KINGS BARBER. 4') " the barl)er royal " to be his proper style,) selects the king's portion, peels his taro, or yam, and pre- sents it, without any humiliating forms, in a clean leaf. This person is upver permitted, under penalty of instant death, to touch his own food with his hands ; and he may be seen tearing his meat like a dog from the floor with his teeth, whilst it is there held by a stick. Before the king commences eating, all present clap their hands about four times. If he drinks, finishes, or sneezes, the same is repeated. The principal queen and about ten other queens were present. As I found that friendship was established, and the king signified his intention to visit th'^ ship on the following Monday, I gladly took my lea\^e. As some mischievous persons had been busy in- ducing the chiefs to withhold supplies to the ship, to suit their own purposes, I visited the brother of the king, Garingaria, reported to be in the list of malcontents, and most active in the pig embargo. His house I found very superior to that of the king ; very large, neat, and well arranged, but nevertheless that of a perfect savage. This Garingaria is re- ported as the riost determined cannibal of this group. He has his friends as well as enemies, and although savage, is less deceitful than those around him. I would much rather be his prisoner than that of the king or any of his immediate retinue He distinctly denied any particii)ation in the plot, and I instantly saw by his countenance that he II I ? »vi ■ ';||, r :■' !-.. li ! jl 40 cinicrs OF uewa. []S4(>. spoke tlio trutli. He immodiatoly sent doAvn a pro- sent of three pigs. The king of Rew.i is a very strong-built, muscu- lar man, standing about six feet two inches ; Phillips, or Thokanauto, five feet ten inches ; Garingaria j)robably six feet four inches. The jjrisoner taken away in the Peacock, said to be a very fine man, we did not see. The ])resent king, who is considered a very weak-minded man, and desjjised by his bro- thers, succeeded his father, wlio, according to custom, was murdered to make room for him. It is not improbable that his death will shortly enable one of the remaining brothers to succeed him. Indeed, Phillips said in his presence, " I shall be king in four years." I found there were plenty of spies to in- terpret falsely the few English sentences which escaped me. As the moment approached for the king's visit, his courage failed, and as it suited my purpose to re-visit Rewa, I went up to tell him my opinion. I found myself so perplexed by the falsehoods and misrepresentations, by which he had been misled, that I left him in disgust, but not without adopting secure measures for our supyilies. On the day following, yams in profusion arrived, but few pigs ; and having purchased sufficient for our crew, I declined further barter until the arrival of more pigs. On the 18th, the Starling returned, bringing three pintles, belonging to the Peacock, Captain Wilkes, of ■■r: ="%i-^-/-: *?»i , ■*>>' f^-;!' £. ■•.rfW, ••■% •"•'¥» - ..Vnlt/ '*' it, \f.'». to .^'i-i;',. ■*•■ .//jS-1^'4'' lid liff •5. :^^' Mir of ree of %> 'i^'^ S-W.i^-'' ■'>5V' % m 'j^ SI 1.' 'H; '' .1 Ml !i . !Mi'>;i;'»i 1) li'clii' •. ' I ,■ Mi'i ^ rtr.u i;ir ■'••■'ii '«• i^f- |ir<"-' IV KM.'/. ^^■tMl •I I'M, 111; 'h: li -,! I!;.! l!i'"-')l,-. ll il. Mi^ 1*) r.M ^r DIM. h 1 -; 1 1 M liMi I >'i . '\'.\, { ■ ill 1 il : \' \\l\ I. • 'hi I'. il '.' ;-.r ;)!, Ill: ! I i '!••; i-'-ii tl If. T' I '. 1 / ^ i 'iJi i> ll I gT^jjj^lyiJgBpBMM m en 1 I gT( I . «^. 1840.] (MVILITY OF COMMODOHF. WILKF.S. 47 the Vinceniu'S, haviii«j in the handsomest manner tlesputched one of his l)()ats to that vessel, thinking' her size better adapted ; at the same time offering" those of tlie Vincennes, shonUl they not answer. At this critical moment, our carpenter and armourer became ill. Fortunately, an engineer by trade hsi])- pened to dall upon me for assistance to recover j)ro- perty alleged to be j)iratically taken from him, and as he would be compelled to await the arrival of the parties, he consented to give his assistance in fitting and reducing the metal work, which he exe- cuted admirably ; and by the evening of the 15th, we were in a condition to complete our voyage. On the evening of the 15th, the tender of the Vincennes hove in sight, and Captain Wilkes him- self very shortly came on board. Under any cir- cumstances tliis was a satisfaction I had long hoped fo)', ))ut in these remote regions, and entirely shut out from civilized beings, it became, independent of the feelings due to his promptitude in relieving our difliculties, matter of sincere satisfaction. Un- fortunately I had only that morning despatched the Starling to fix the position of Banga, one of the new islands not placed on the chart, and had pro- mised to join him on Monday. Having, however, been nearly eighteen hours together, we were en- abled to talk over matters of much interest to both expeditions, and as they would go over part of our ground, their observations made in the same posi- tions would become doubly interesting. >mii 48 SIILIMIIU UlinS NTKl'LAr. [ISIO. V *l f! («. fh Our (>l)scrvjitory mid tontx lu'ln^y (MiibarktMl, mid rudder In order, after dinner we parted ; and by tiie aid of tlie moon the Sulphur wuh a<;ain inovin;^; throui^h the waters with her aeeustomed freelish news than we had ]>reviously seen. They had visited the Ton^a group, and had been about six weeks examining the Feejecs, of which they intended to comjjlete the chart. When I state thtit four large islands occurred in our passage alone, which are not placed on the charts, and that many unnoticed exist in the whole group, which is most erroneously set forth in the charts, the value of their lal)ours may be easily aj)preciated. Owing to threats held out that vengeance would be taken for the capture of the chief by the Pea- cock, I did not conceive it right to risk the chance of aggression, by j)ermitting our i)arties to pursue their examinations where our force could not .act ; consequently, beyond the island of Nukulau and the beach-line little was obtained. The anchorage of Nukulau is safe, as well as con- A'enient. Two safe and easy passages lead to it, and with the assistance of the chart, vessels can enter at all times without a pilot. The eastern channel, by which the Sulphur entered, is also safe, if assisted bv the chart and a boat ahead. The best anchorage is in twelve fathoms, with the outer 1840.] UIVKKS OF AMUOW. 41) islsmd Imroly sliiit in witli Nukulau, about two ciihlos lon*(th tVom tlic shore, in a muddy bottom. Tlio strony Hendin^^ up the river. The Sulphur watered at the island. At present there are so many doubts about the proper name of the main island, that I retain " Aml)ow,"* this being; the name tmderstood by the chiefs and natives, and it has stood sufficiently long on the charts for j)reference. It is traversed by very extensive rivers, and the cliiefs assert that in the rainy season the fresh water prevails one mile beyond the breakers. It is also asserted that no one has yet reached the source of this river, and that numerous other similar streams exist. The Americans made the attempt, and I am informed penetrated six miles beyond any previ- ous white person. I am not aware of anything to repay the labour, which probably would entail sickness on the exploring party. The mountains arc lofty, and exhibit deep ravines between the ranges, which alone would account for powerful streams. They are generally shallow, and not adapted for navigation. A code of regulations has been drawn up and signed by mark, for the chiefs of Rewa, (not of 13a-ou,) but as they neither read, write, nor under- stand tlie laws they have enacted, (possil)ly Phillii)S may be an exception,) they will prove a dead letter. * I think, although Ambow on charts, that it should be written Ambauo. Bauo being the residence of the principal or king. VOL. II. E I no FMI'I.KMFATs OP WAR. [IMIO. Tlu'ir iiii|>l(Mii(>iits (»r war arr ciiilts, spears, lious, and arrows ; Imt the rliih a|>|u'ars to li»' that (d' an oran<>(', the sti'm, or luuxlle, scddom exceedin<>' three (juarters of an inch in diameter. These are either carved or smoothly pcdished. It is a very formida- ble wea|>on, and ])rol)aldy, exceptin;^' in actions where nund)ers are en^jfau^ed, their most fatal instru- ment of death. They readily part with any of tiieir arms or ornaments for wluile teeth, which are at all times irresistible articles in traffic. The costmnc of the men is similar to that of tlie Ton<^a group, or most of the I'acific Islands, viz., a simple maro round the M'aist. The chiefs who possess European finery, sekhmi exhibit it, except- ing Pliillii)S, (Tbokanauto) who generally made his ai)peta*ance in white trowsers, shirt, waistcoat, and surtout. Indeed, I would not permit him to visit the ship in any other costume. This chief s])eaks English, French, and Spanish, is clever and intelli- gent, and has made one or two voyages in an Auie- rican trader to Tahiti, and the neighbourijig islands. 1h4(I.] IIIUKANAI TO OK I'lIIIJ.II'S. Al It is jn'ohjihlc tlitit lu' will slidi'tly li.'ivc tlic cliict |M»Nvcr lit |{cNvn, ais lie Wrojully liiiitcd in iUr [Ut- Hi'Mcc u\' U'lH hrotluT. It is to lu' li<)|t(Ml tiijit Im' will uttiiiii it by u more civili/cd |)n)C('ss tli;in tlic cuh- toiniuy iiuxlo. The kiii;^ or |»i'iiici|iiil ciiicf of Ainl»ow, " Old SnufF," as lie is tt'i'inccl, residi-s ut hiiuo, or IJow, about thirty miles ujt the river, iiiid near to the river wiiieh empties itself northerly at Obillaiio. His sou, " Youn^jf Siiuir," is described as an active, intelli- gent youn<>; man, nmch [irepossessed in favonr of our countrymen. Indeed, the abstraction of tlie Kewa dili'f by the Americans has irritated tlu' nativis amazin<'ly, and will probably injure their mercantile interests. The story tohl here is that this chief resented some in- di<>nity oil'ered luir. by an American trader on some former visit, and on the return of some of the crew in another vessel, they were " clubbed.' It is stated that he was kept chained in her main top, l)ut escaped, and swam ashore. However, on the arrival of the Americua sc^uadron, the Peacock was despatched to demand this chief. Ills capture was achieved as before stated. This was the ver- sion ^ivcn by the missionaries. Doubtless wo shall hear the fiicts in a more authenticated form, when the narrative of the exploring voyage comes out. Both men and women take great pride in dress- ing their hair. Although it is long enough some- times to reach to the waist, it nevertheless has a E 2 52 MODE OF DRESSING HAIR. [1840. strong dis})ositioii to curl or frizzle, and tlio main object appears to be to render eacli individual hair independent, presenting an uniform mol), similar to the wigs of our bishops. In one instance I measured the distance from the skin to the outer edge of the hair, wliich was six inches. In some cases of the first class (lueens, the external shape was beautifully even and round, genorally coloured by powder, of a very light lead colour. The men in many in- stances have iheir hair party-coloured ; sometimes black, red, blue, and lead, or dirty white, on the same scalp. In Severn! instances I noticed a single red lo?ig lock cult^ \'ated from the side of a thick frizzled black mob. These colours are obtained from dif- ferent bark>(, the whitish or lead colour from the ashes of the bark of the })read fruit-tree. Those who cannot maintain a barber frequently cover the hair with tapa, which gives it the appearance of 0. turban. This style of dress, with their thick black beards, and tapa thrown over the shoulder, gives them a Turkish aspect. They are inordinately fond of paint. Vermilion is equal to gold ; but failing tliis, they besmear themselves with a thick coating of lampblack, and oil or varnish, and vary it by scor- ing off until the skin shews, or by coloured ashes. Their ciiief object in dress is to render themselves as unlike human beings as possible ; the more ter- rific, the more admired. They have nearly the same abhorrence of a white skin .vS we have of a black one. b tl e; d. 1840.] DISCUSSION OF RELIGION. 53 s, The women wear an ornamented belt, about lour inches deep, with six inches fringe, called a leekee* Tiiey are very neatly worked, and are becoming. The queen of Rewa had no other covering. Her hair, however, was very neatly dressed, and as per- fect as if she had come from under the hands of a French frisseur. I am afraid that the missionaries will find these people far beyond their powers. Tliey have no chiefs of sufficient im])ortance to carry into effect any important change, and possibly if any one at- tempted it otherwise than by example, his head might i)ay the forfeit. They are too self-willed and independent to be driven, and at the present moment far too ferocious to submit to any re- straint. I put the question to Phillips, who answered im- mediately to the point. " They have no objection to the residence of the missionaries, and would feed them ; and would not molest any one voluntarily embracing their religion. But they dislike their sj)ying into thtir houses. By-and- bye, when tliey see more of them, and tmderdand them, the people may come round." " But," I observed, " the , chiefs should set the example, as the kings of all the other islands have done." " What did they (jivc them for helping them ?" 1 i'ej»lied, " Nothing; they were induced by tlie LU. ..ilBMmBWi § :a AKRIVK AT HANdA. [1S40. superior advautap^cs which t\\v fhristian ivligion of- ioivii;' As ho coiihl not bo macK'^ to ooniproliond this part of tlio subjoot, and appearod rostloss, I ehaiigod tho topic. With a litt canio on board at «layliolit, but as nothinrr ollorod of sufliciont interest to detain the ship, I nuMoly landed to secure tho position, and comj)1ete tho survey which liad been commenced by tlio Starlinij. The anclioraijfe is safe and convenient, and i)ro- bably, had T been aware of its existence, wonhl havi' been selected in pi'eferenco to Nukulau for our astronomical position, as boin^ more detached from a lar<»v pojmlation. " Not lonuf since it [)0s- sessed its full portion of inhabitants; but on the death of their kinii", who was tributa'y to the kinij; of llewa, the chiefs determined to throw olf tho yoke, and become iudependont. Such a pretext for war was not overlooked, and a band of warriors inunetliately issued forth to iH'duco them to submission, or in ])lainer terms, to rob them of all they ])ossessed. This was found diHicult by ri'as(m of their fastnesses, the towns bein<»- situated in many cases on the very summit of the mountains, elevated one thousand four hundi'e«l feet above the sea. 1 840.] CANNIUALFSM. 55 riiidiiijr tlioy were not sufticicjitly strong, iviii- rorcomc'iits were demanded, which were sent nnder tlie command of Garin<^aria, or raised by him under a contract that he mipflit exterminate them. His l)rother, Thokjinauto, (or Phillij)s,) who is u])- iiehl as the white man's friend, (l)!it only so lon^ as lie can get anything from him,) was foremost in destroying tlie villagers by fire, and committing other brutal acts. The expedition resulted in vic- tory to the besiegers, the death of the ])rinci|)al chief, and several hundreds of the population. The son of the chief was spared to govern, under the usual subjection. The sequel will hardly be credited, yet it is be- yond doubt : canniludism to a frightful degree still prevails amongst this ])eople, and, .as it wouhl seem, almost {IS one of theirhighest enjoyments. The victims of this ferocious shuighter were ri'gularly ]>rej)ared, being baked, packed, and distributed in portions to the various towns wliicli furnished warriors, according to their ex])loits; and they were feasted on with a degree of savage barbarity nearly incredible ! They imagine that they increase in Ijravery, by eating their valorous enemy. This (laringaria is a noted cannibal, and it is as- serted that he killed one of his wives and ate her. This he denied, and accounted for her death (which took place violently by his order) on other grounds, lie did not attemj)t a denial of his acts at lianga, nor did I'liillips. These occurrences are of lat(^ *; ' nniMM 56 CHIEF GARING .^lA. [1840. 1,'Vr date. I am told they threw one or more of the heads (which they do not eat) into the missionary's compound. The population of the Feejees arc very tall, far above the height of any other nation I have seen. Of five men assembled in my tent, none were under six feet two inches. It was rather an awkward sub- ject to tax Garingaria with in his own house, and solely attended by his own dependent, our inter- preter ; but he took it very quietly, and observed that he cared not for human flesh, unless it was that of his enemy, and taken in battle. When he used this expression, I could not help thinking that his lips were sympathetically in motion, and that I had better not make myself too hostile. I there- fore bid him good evening. Quitting the unfortunate island of Banga, we steered a course to pass close to Cantab, and the following day passed its western extreme, steering for Tanna, one of the southernmost of the New Hebrides. On the 2()th we made for the island of Erronan, which, from our great distance, presented the appear- ance of a low flat island. On the following morn- ing we passed about seven miles to the southward, when a nearer view showed it to be a very high truncated cone, well wooded, and surrounded by a low belt of flat land, projecting about half a mile beyond its base. We were not sufficiently near to observe inhabitants, or if landing or harbours ex- isted. I 1840.] REACH PORT RESOLUTION. 57 V the Shortly after, the island of Annatom was noticed to the S. W., and Tanna nest. Annatom presentH undulating hills, but no remarkable peaks or strik- ing features. Tanna is a larger island, jjresents high peaks and ranges on the southern portion, with very abrupt cliffy bluffs. Port Resolution may readily be found, by a very remarkable yellow sandstone bluff at its north-west angle, and which is situated to the northward of the entrance ; also by the smoke of the volcano, little inland from it. Approaching from the 8(Jk*^hward, the entrance of the port might be over- shot, by reason of the overlapping breakers; but by bearing in mind tiiat it is formed by the low peninsular south-east angle, and that the entrance is situated about one mile southerly of the yellow bluff, it will easily be found. By noon we reached the entrance, the wind being dead out : but by edging close to the breakers on our left, and hauling sharp up, we made the entrance, and in four boards reached our berth inside in six fathoms. It is too narrow for a long vessel to work in, and it is preferable to shoot into fifteen fathoms, and be i)repared to warp. We were soon visited by the .:atives, in some of tlie most i.niserable apologies for canoes that we have yet witnessed. In one of these frail barks came the resident missionarv, a native of Samoa, one of the Navigator Grou]», loft here l)y the mis- sionary vessel to convert these [)eoplc'. I took him I I' || \\ 1 ', ! r)8 MrsSTONAUIKS FROM " NAVKiATORS. [1S4(K witli mo to soloct a position fjivonrabU^ for our ob- isorvutioiis. This (li«l not jiiH)ear likely to bo ertectcd on tiio eastern si«lo of tlie bay, and we therefore commenced those requiring the mosl; undivided attention on the Avestern rocky cliffs. The natives, however, soon l)egan to find us there, which, a(hled to tlie frequent vibration from the volcano, determined me on trying the town side the ensuing (lav. Jieing short of fuel, and depending on the peace- able character given of these people by Cook, added to the ])reseiice of the messengers of peace and good will, I determined on making the most of time here, and parties were accordingly lesjjatched wood- ing, as well as making the survey of the i)ort. Our observing position was pitched in front of the house of the missionaries, a mere thatched hovel, in which five unfortunate natives of the Navigators were literally imprisoned, being comi)elled to close the door, immediately one entered or departed, to j)revent the intrusion of the natives. Their number consisted originally of six mi>n and two women, but then- chief (or king, as they termed him,) died not long since, and the remainder were suffering more or less from fever and ague. They appear to be very uneasy and unliaj)py, and painfully anxious to return to their native land. They enijuired most anxiously and eagerly if we were bound to the Navigators; and although their stock of English was but scanty, we ii)\\\i\ plainly undei>>tand that they were in great fear 1| 1H40.] UNPLEASANT SITUATION. 50 from the natives, and much dreaded our departure. They were, moreover, aware of the melancholy fate of Mr. Williams and his companion, at the neigh- bouriiicf island of Mallicolo. It was with feelings of derp disappointment that our mutual io-norance of tlu language prevented me from using any exertions to smooth their way with the natives, who appear a most lawless set. The surgeon inquired into their comi)laints, and his pre- scriptions i)rol)ably aflfonled temporary alleviation,l)ut, with the mind so much depressed and harassed, 1 fear recovery is prol)lematical. The only chance they now have, is the return of the missionary vessel from New South Wales, when they will be doubtless removed to Samoa. The fjitdl catastrophe to Mr. Williams, and his companion at Mallicolo, has not failed to make a deep im})ression ; and although the natives en- deavoured to ])ersuade us that they abliorred the unnatural in-actice of cannibalism, I should be very sorry to be j)laced at their mercy. I certainly felt a more than ordiuarv interest about these unfor- tunate beings, and the fre(|uent re])etition of "Samoa, Samoa," from the sick within the hut, sounded like the cry of the condenmcl. During the course of my pursuits, I was frequently annoyed by the natives intruding too closely on our tabi lines, although frequently warned by their own chief, as wells as one of the missionaries, to ^(reserve- the prescribed boundaries. Ft was unfortunate that ! ! m 60 NATIVKS TROUMLKSOMK. [18^0. wo had HO many irons in tiio fire, otliervviL-ic I couM have placed snfticient men on the lines of demarca- tion to have etfectually deterred the ill-disposed from seeking* a quarrel, for which several were evi- dently much inclined. I had also a stronpc reason for keeping up a good understanding, without arms, if possible, in order to show them how little wc feared anything from theiii. want of decisio- genr^' lly in my opinicn, acting rather as uii. inuuevnn nt to molestation. Had force been resorted o, I uiso 'bresaw that their spleen might have been vented up; .1 the unfortunate, un- protected missionaries, who were already dreading our departure. Though their actions, to other visitors, not simi- larly occupied with ourselves, would have been deemed harmless, they, monkey-like, no sooner com- ])rehended that they could, without serious displeasure, annoy me by the vibration of the ground at the mo- ments for observation, than they commenced sinml- taneous poundings with billets of wood, and threw stones high into the air, which fell near and risked the instruments. In order to secure the last and most important set, (which can only be comprehend- ed by those as intently engaged,) I found it necessary to clear the ground to a certain distance, and to effect tliis, recalled one of the cutters ; letting the cliiefs understand my determination. The instant the crew landed, tliev enforced niv wishes, and the veil of departure, half serious, lialf 1840.] AWKWAUl) IMM<:i»l{^\MKN'T. 01 oomlf, wliioli hurst forth, hud lU'Jirlyawsikcnc*! thcshini- hors of tlic Sulphur, whicli had kept un Jittontivo cyt^ ou onr niovfinonts. Anythiug, evon in mimic hostility after this, wouldii.ivc drawn an unfortunate siiot : of this I w.as not aware until my r( urn in the evcnin<>^. However, a few minutes sufficed to comj)loto wiiat I rc(iuired, when I hastened to remove anything- like l)ad feeh'ng, l)) mixing immediately with them. The sentinel having reported that one of the natives raised his club with a threatening attitude, wlien he warned him off the instruments, I immediately went to him and desired him, by signs, to lay down his club, which he immediately did, trembling. I then gave it in charge to the sentinel, who placed it under his foot for safer custody, and the native was ordered out of bounds. A cry of derision at his ex- pense followed. The chiefs were with me, and re- (juested me to be <|uiet, ordering the people Imck. After great intercession on the part of the chiefs, and on condition that the man was sent entirely away, I allowed the club to be restored to his chief. This shows how completely savages may be reduced from insolence to abject fear, by even pretending deter- mination, for I was unarmed. But as it was done in a good-humoured manner, and made a joke against the party, it failed to procure him support had he been inclined to resist. Very little was ])rought to the beach for traffic, although on my landing the first question asked, was for "permission to open triide." The little tiiat \i i i V f;t> IIAIUTS AM) MtKSS OF NATIVKS. [1840. tlicydid l>rin«]:c()iisistiMl of lur^vyaiiis, (\vt>ir('tty ronos and Imlla round tlio nock ; Imt wo woro unal)Io to ))rocuro a .sin;j,l(' Iiv(( slioU IVoni tlicni, altliou<,di tlioy woro distinotly awar(» that thoy would rocoivo aniplo ('(»ni|K'nsation lortlioir la))ours. Altoo;othor thoy appoar to Ik? vory Iom' in tin? tscaio of hunuin l)oin;:^s, littlo inclinod to traflic, filtliy, ill- lookiuj>', insolent, and troublosonio as a jtcoplo. Of course there are cxcei)tions. Our party employed woodino* ut the extreme end of the bay, were latterly troubled by their throwing stones, but this ])robably arose merely from a mis- chievous disposition. ]Jy four o'clock our o})erations w(»ro corudnded, and havin<2f presented to our unfortunate friends the missicmaries, some few necessaries, and taken leavenot without some mis' shore, purchasing' occasionally the few thiiif^s bnmght down by the natives who con- tinued to thron<>- about me with much good-humour. I pursued this course j)ur]»()sely, in order to dis- cover if any ill-feelin<^' existed amon;»st them ; and to ensure keepino- them at a resi)ectful distance, 1 very (juietly borrowed the club of the nearest man, without tlie slightest resistance on his part, (althouj»h generally they are very tenacious on this point, when (11 jii'iT i(»i<'r uKMH.i rioN. [IS UK arms wn* nonr,) mid used it to iiinkc tlx'iii pivsorvo tlifir distance. Tlu'sc acts, altlioiin^li trivial to tli(» rcadiT, won* lUMlormcd in a manner wliicli I iiavi* neviT known to fail anion^rst sava^'es. If resistance is shown I do not persist, ;,^eneraliy ieavinn' tlie matter to tiie feid- inos of tiiose aroinid. lint I iiave never failewin<^ us ott' with Aloha Aleeke, or "^oo'ime few shells, principally nautilus, (pompilius.) These were readily purchased for beads, but the natives were very timid and could not be pei-suaded to come on board. On the day following we ran along the north western side of New Ireland, in order to ascertain how far the n.atives were disposed to barter, and what they had to dispose of. Many canoes put off, and, after some solicitation, not only came alongside, but the natives ventured on board. Viewed in their canoes we thought them a tall race, but I was much surprised, on actual measurement as they were standing beside us, that the man I had selected as their stoutest and tallest did not exceed live feet seven, and was spare withal. 70 VISITS (tV NATIVKS. [1840. Tho canoes, which nj)|)oarc(l for the most part to bo now, are constructed from a hard wliito wood with a rod core, (probal)ly a mimosa.) Thoy aro very 8imi)h^ and neat, and furnished with the custo- mary outri<^gers. They pfenerally contained three or four persons. The larp^est, whicli was about fifty feet in length, contained eight. All those who camo off in the canoes were male, and entirely naked, but the females, whom wc discerned dancing and waving along the beach, were covered with the leekee of the Feejees and new Hebrides. The natives who ventured on board had each a single leaf stuck in their belts, but no more. As they brought nothing but cocoa-nuts akid very small bread fruit, and were moreover very difficult to please, we very politely caused their departure, by slightly increasing our speed. I have little doubt that had we been able to anchor, stock, &c., would have ])een easily ])rocured. The indentations of the coast appeared to offV'r several very simg little harbours, and judging fnmi the numerous canoes as w'ell as from the j)0])ulation we saw on the beach, added to large patches of cleared land, there can be little doubt that they have sufficient i)roduce. Probably the distance at which we were from the land at the time they put off* pre- vented their risking live stock. On the day following, being a little further in advance, a large and handsomely finished canoe, with 1840.] MOTIIKR AND PAIOIITKU. t t tile HjUfuro-huad turiKMl inwards, paid us ii visit. Imt wero too timid to coinimmicatc. DoubtlcHs she con- tained a chief, as those wiio managed her were silent, and did not even notice our advances to friendly conmiunications. Our indisposition also to delay longer in this region of rains, calms, and variables^ did not induce us t<) make much repetition, although, so long from home, " New Irish " was a novelty in our ears. The season certainly was most unfortunate, as from the nature of the coast before us I could easily imagine the scenery in fine weather to be magnificent. The hills of New Ireland rise to a height of fifteen hundred to two thousand feet, and are clothed from base to summit with the most luxuriant forest. In the distance the high lands of New Ibitain, with the magnificent peaks of " Mother and Daughter," afford a fine finish to the landscape. In a mercantile point of view I cannot at present perceive how these islamlscan j)rove interesting beyond the fancy woods and tortoise shell, of which latter substance every canoe ajipeared to possess several plates. It is of good ([uality, better than I have before noticed in the Pacific, and from the munner in which it was ottered no doubt ve>>els come here to trade for it ; indeed we learnt as nmch from Tom Starling. It was unfortunate that such an op})ortunity for acfpiiring a more perfect estimate of these islands and their resources was * »mpletely marred, by the I' I m 1 1 ; 1 ^ ••■ V*<- "*?.■.■; sjii:.^^ '( I .11 '-.;).il'^Ti H'^nrv I'oll.iirn. '.'r-i;it t/!irltr ■IK. n ^' ■■■.:' ' ' • ' :.. ■ ,1«,;- ti •i: ! : • i ■ ■ - • ' . ,f r ' ■ •- ■ Mi ...Ji, M. ;iw * ■,- .»M I , • ■■ (■ ■ ft ■<* /.v/',//.'/^,;,/ O/:.'//' .-..■/y ■,-i-ri H :.ll.iirri, •'r-^'i ♦ ."''l -tr I ' i' ! i i I- 511 il-- m I84().j STlllKJllRK UK CANOKS. SI &c., (Io.s|)1slmI beads, hiit cvIikumI no j)arti('iilur dc- siro to |){)ssi'ss uiiytliiii;^' sliowii to tlicMii. Latterly tlioy l)n)u<;lit some birds of paradise, but tliey Mere iiidlH'ereiit, and I am not aware what was given in exchaiixt*. The constant showers (hirin<>' tlie day prevented our obtainino- the necessary (hita for determinin<»' our position. We were, tlierefore, compelletl to trust to the stars, tlie weather oenerally provin<>' clear between sunset and two a.m. By miihiigiit we had conipletenni|> " tli(? liritiiiniiii Ar('lii|»('la;j^o." Tlio (lay i)i'()viiif^ uropitious, our siirvoy was c»x- tcMulcd, l)y Avliicli wo disoovori'f into a lai-ffo river, were tlu? extremities of Ji S(>ries of islands fornn'n;>' a very extensive; arehi- ]»ela<»'o. iMo-hteon Avere counted from the mast head, and I have little (hmbt that further examina- tion to tlie southward would have materially in- creased tiiisnund)or. The lateness of the season, and our innnediate duty in this neighbourhood, not permitting- further exploration, I Avas compelled very reluctantly to bo sa- tisfied in effecting only what the propfross of our pas- sage would allow ; and keopinfr within a short distance oftlio land, our head was ao-ain directed westerly.* In natural history our short stay afforded but tritling scope. Some interesting micoseroj)ic shells were found in the mud at the anchorage, a few from the beach, and one new land shell. The geological composition of the island, as far as examined, proved to bo jasper, but very much doconij)ose(l. The natives ai)pear to take great pains in clearing and cultivating the land, and several l)rilliant green spots relieved the eye from the sameness of the dull forest tint. Our botanical collector was as usual indefatigable. Our course along the land proved tedious, by rea- * I liopc that this portion may licrcaftei' be ex|)loretl. J^i i?iij>'.'yl. f^fT V-, (Jii-^.', \ *K'-Mr' ^'* «« ? •,.■ •;.^iiJ^i& :^ "^^fiM-i^^ •>>,■ i-i^',, _ 'j'.^. ^= "I^.'IS*" • *-.• ■ L"" - (-"••-a 'f. ^■*jv;r ■;.''■ ■ " ■ *. ■ ':::/^ ■■.:^»:..^r ■ ■ ■'«*3!#^^yi<'^'f^^'i- \% •■.. . J .V/ ._/ I ! I •' I. » ^1 I I ' \ \ \ y. 1840.] NATURAL IIISTOUY. 83 son of calms and baffling- winds : but aware that the current in shore was much stronger than out of soundings, our exertions were directed to keep near the land, where something very similar to land and sea breezes occasionally favoured us, but nothing regular. We did not fairly accomplish our object until the morning of the 1st, when we commenced a track survey of the coast, with a light fivourablc air, which permitted us to range within one mile of the coast. About sunset we found ourselves off a very deep and extensive inlet, on the outer peninsula (or island) of which arose several very lofty and remarkable peaks, frequently hidden by clouds. Nothing of the kind is apparent on the charts, and the fact of our being some miles inland, by our latitude and longi- tude, evinces how little avo know of the geographical features of New Guinea. We were visited by many natives, from whom wo purchased weapons, and other trifles. The day following enabled ns to add little to the preceding, the currents having driven us, durino- the night, almost out of sight of some of our lofty marks. At noon we observed within one mile of the eastern- most of three low islands, nine being then in sio-ht : these were " Los Crespos." By sunset we had reached the seventh, and tacked off shore for the night. The wind being light and variable ; we an- chored between them in thirteen fathoms. Here T G 2 tl l 1 Fl ;i 1* 84 TRAFFK!. [1840. li ^ i I • > determined to remain, in order to fix their position, until noon, when we again moved westerly. We were vi.-itod by great numbers of natives in canoes from these islands, and so far from displaying fear or distrust, they were very anxious to persuade me to land. Had calm prevailed, I most certainly should have done so. The natives were decidedly superior to, and entirely different from, those of the Britannia group. The hair was worn loose, and in ringlets, some having tlic minute tails of Tanna. Jiach canoe was laden with bows, arrows, cocoa- nuts, and plantains ; and several plates of tortoiseshell, which they freely exchanged for bits of iron hoop, beads, &c. ; but some large blue China beads, which I had, were singly worth anything oifered in the market. One small blue bead was fixed as the price of a cocoa-nut. The canoes differ much from any we have noticed on this coast. They are neatly built, and short, and seldom contained more than three persons. The people were good-humoured, docile, and honest. Many birds of paradise, but tarnished, were worn as ornaments ; but not brought for barter. Tortoiseshell was sufficiently abundant to be worth trading for ; the plates good, and the demand about six inches of rusty useless hoop, for each plate. No females were seen. About noon the breeze favoured us, and having procured about three hundred cocoa-nuts, and sup- plies of bananas, &c., and also pretty well filled the 1840.] ISLAND or AUI.MOA. 85 ship with ornamoiits, bows, arrows, &c., we weighed, and proceeded for Arinioa, then in sight to the N. N. E. From onr dealings with these people, who were prol)al)ly inhabitants of the neighbouring low islands, we have every reason to believe them friendly and well-disposed. They were evidently in fear, as the slightest noise would instantly cause them to paddle oft" in alarm. But no dispute oc- curred in their dealings; they were always well satisfied and good humoured, and invited us to land. Several cases of disease (apparently leprosy) were noticed, and many have lost noses, and have their features otherwise much disfigured. They chew the betel, with chunam ; smoke their native tobacco, and wear as ornaments the tusks of the wild boar. The septum of the nose is per- forated, through which I noticed (and purchased) a bamboo ornament above one and a half inches in diameter. The lobes of the ears were similarly dis- tended to two inches. They are expert divers, frequently catching things which fell overboard, (even deads,) and manage their canoes with great dexterity. A small canoe which I purchased was very neatly ornamented by carved figures at each end. The sail is an oblong mat, very similar to that in use throughout these seas — probably Malay. Their bows are very plain, and made of the outer l)art of the bamboo ; the arrows from a reed, about 86 NATIVES ALARMED. [1840. I ' ft' ' II f . , i! t; f 1 ( M li m I 5 1 i six feet in length, and ornamented by burning with a liot iron instrument. The string is also of rattan. The whole of the coast has, I believe, been visited by D'Urvillc. They are, without doubt, " Los Crespos" of the old charts, but the natives call the island which we anchored off, Yamna, which name I find is known at Arimoa. The following morning brought us close up with the islands of Arimoa, Moa, and Insu, or close under the south end of the southern Moa. The weather being hazy, with rain and little wind, j)revented our effecting much of their delineation. Numerous canoes from Arimoa visited us, and for a short period trafficked without reserve. Iron hoop had fallen desperately in value, and nothing but knives or beads would succeed. The incautious api)earance of a sentinel, with his musket, caused an innuediate panic, which we were unable to dispel ; and, although compelled by calm to anchor close off their village, not a soul came oil' during the remainder of that day, although they remained in their canoes at a short distance in shore, laden with cocoaruuts, bananas, &c. From the natives we learned that they acknoM'- ledge the names on the charts, with the addition of the syllable too, as Arimoa-too, Insu-too, Moa-too, with a perceptible division of the too, as if it im- plied island. The articles obtained from these people differed 1840.] WEAPONS. 87 )W- of )0, im- from those of our Yamna friends, their bows beiii<^ less finished, and arrows not so long. It appears that each tribe preserves an established Imyth of this missile. As our distance from their village enabled us to see their huts and inhabitants very distinctly, by aid of our telescopes, we were able to make out that their houses are constructed similarly to those de- scribed as customary amongst the natives of New Guinea, viz. the huts are constructed on platforms elevated on piles about ten or fifteen feet above the ground. A thatched pitched roof rises direct from, and overlaps, the platform, (similar to the attic of our pitched-roofed houses.) It is closed at the ends by a window, used also for the door, about three feet square. The ascent is by a ladder or notched post laid slanting to the window. The features and structure of this race differed from those of Yamna. They are more athletic, appear to possess more determination, as well as craftiness, and, probably from the fear of firearms, have had reason to repent some aggressions on a former visitor, or, ecpially probable, have been made to feel the blessings of communicating with white men who wished to drive their bargains vi ct armis. We had no reason to wish for closer acquaintance by admitting them on board, and had this been permitted then it would certainly have been attended with great caution. They appeared as much afraid of a telescope as of firearms. 1*1 11: i» i P 'U ■ill I : i' I 88 HABITATIONS. [1840 As their women and children were plentiful on the beach, they could !.iave little idea of hostility ; and from this circumstance, I am inclined to sus- pect them the injured instead of the aggressing party. We were afforded an opportunity of observing that the females are clothed similarly to those in the neighbouring islands, viz. by a matted fringe from the hips to the knees. Finding our neighbours still disposed to keep aloof, we warped to the edge of the reef, and with a light air cleared the island during the night ; Imt anchored a short distance to the westward, where we remained until after noon the day following, in order to effectually fix the position of the island. Our anchorage was in eleven fathoms, mud, twelve miles at least from the nearest land. From the point off which these islands are situated the coast appears to undergo an immediate change to a low swampy mangrove archipelago; the nu- merous gaps being either the channels between them, or the mouths of large streams. The fact of many being islands was fully proved by observation, at their termination in the great northern gulf. I have little doubt also that lar;Te estuaries or rivers contribute to form the great mud ilat which extends to such a distance from the lan;l, as very strong- currents were experienced, and many floating masses torn from the land (containing whole i)alni- trees) indicated more than mere tidal action. 4 :. ( *> \ 1840.] FLOATINd ISLANDS. bi) On the afternoon of the Gth of Auf^ust wc moved with ji light air and current from the eastward ; and the water continuing to decrease, hauled off, until we reached fifteen fathoms. Much to our astonish- ment, several strange sail were reported, and they rapidly increased to a fleet, as we imagined, of canoes. Having, however, directed our course towards the nearest, we grazed it sufficiently to sweep our copper well, as it proved a large peat island, with a palm bush. Several sea-snakes were observed, differing from those generally noticed, and one taken in the trawl was preserved. A rare nondescript shell also taken. The openings in the coast became more numerous, and left little doubt that our pigmy fleet resulted from the islands abreast of us. The depth at eight or nine miles from the land being only nine fathoms, prevented our making any close examination of the coast, and at dark we dropped anchor for the night. In the morning we resumed our course, and succeeded in detaching several of the western group of islands, which at length showed us a passage be- tween the westernmost, and what we assumed* to be the island of Jobie on the charts. Through this channel a strong tide set against us, compelling us again to drop anchor. Many canoes came off from the low islands near us, on which we could discern several villages, the houses, however, ex- hibiting red roofs, which, from the material employed * Assumed, nothing like the chart. i)() CANOES AND WKAl'ONS Ol' NATIVES. [1840. ,!/ il. for the construction of their >mckets, I suspect to 1)0 the imlni-slieatli, of wliich several neat little buckets, which we obtained, were constructed. The natives of tlicse ishuids were su})eri()r in fea- tures, cleanliness, &c., to any who had yet visited us. Their canoes were better finislied, their wea- pons more numerous, and the numbers in each occasionally amounted to eighteen. They Avero furnished with double outriggers, and set their mat sail, sheer fashion, on v. tripod, serving for stay as well as rigging : masts, therefore, they had not. Their arrows were invariably three feci in Icm/ih, as if l^y laiv. The bows were rough, but strong and serviceable. They were not intimidated by firearms, excepting the first single canoe which visited us, pro- bably to rei)ort. They ev* n came on board by the quarters without invitation, although they c.uld not be persuaded to come alongside to traf- fic. This evinced some little knowledge of war tactics. We noticed that in their approach they observed a very ceremonious distance and j)ace in ])assing the broadside, but on completing the circuit as far as the quarter, pulled up for the stern. They were evidently aware of the use of the ports, as well as the destructive engines concealed within, and that the quarter was the weakest point. In their traflic they evinced more than usual knowledge of useful articles, and plainly intimated that knives or cloth must be the trading medium. We obtained but little from them in return, but W-\>h 1840.] COSTUME OF NATIVES. 91 l)ovvs, arrows, :i few hinln of i)aradi8o, and ba- nanas. Tho head costume differs from those previously seen. The hair is well combed, and drawn through ornamented tubes of bamboo, about one inch and a half in diameter by four in length. In one instance a very fine well-featured lad, apparently a dandy in his way, had five of tliese ornaments, although they were seldom observed with more than two. A peculiar cc ib, like a toasting fork, having a ])endant at its extremity, is stuck in the coronal tuft, and projects in front about two feet, standing, when tlie body and head is erect, about ten inches above the line of the eyebrows. They were apparently under control of a chief who was present, though we could not ascertain 7,'hich was he. They were very good-tempered, and anxious that wo should visit their towns. In build, manners, &c., they were of a superior cast ; the features of some of them, particularly those from eighteen to twenty-five, being remarkably handsome, and of a light copper colour. The elders were fine healthy pleasant featured and vigorous men. Apparently, they were above cunning, and were quite independent in their manner. They have evidently been accustomed to visits from Europeans ; as they displayed iron, steel, and cloths, and perfectly comprehended that our colours were About two o'clock, the tide having changed, and II J)2 ANCIlOlt Ol'l" .lOlUK. [1840. broiiolit a l)rc'Ozo fVcmi S.Lj., wo wi^liolit, we were visited by heavy rain, thunder, and li<>htning, whicl) lasted until daylight, when 1 transferred my- self to the Starling, in order to seek for convenient anchorage, as well as a good j)osition for rating the chronometers. Fortunately we picked up a very snug berth, in time to save our observations, and fixed upon a detached limestone clump, half a mile from the main island, completely adapted for our magnetic observations. The ship anchored within hail, in nineteen fathoms, tough clay. The size and detached position of our rock j)re- vented the chance of molestation from visitors, as not more than ourselves and instruments could lind footing. The natives came off to the vicinity of our posi- tion, but giving them to understand that we could not liave any communication with them, tliey (piietly retired to the nearest beach, a])])arently awaiting our pleasure. At sunset, finding that we still re- mained in the same mood, they retired. The canoes of this party, which I shall term "' state canoes," and which were j)robably only in- tended for the inner waters, differed essentiallv .7^ % as I. .> ii- #/' •••„,*.. r lit m; ^^. C??:. 'j^ ^i|^ i«t. 11.1 --r, ' I ■^l< I'd !<- ■ I*! '• '.V 1 • i ( ) i ■ ) t ! 'I f!w .r '. ,11 I!i.' t I ;•• «i .' ! Ill rii. V. M«!l irji' ^>t•'l^•(• t<» ■■•' I'i i;i\ .i: \ ■ ^IJ !|' •i« :!i<'i'i I .., : I' I 1 ..| \ ' il ■ , lii- .'iMiiu ;'. ' ' I ' " ' - ■ I ■ " ' I , I" .:;i . • • ! t , . ;> 1: i Uli'lC i,.ll..H tilllM-t'.. .1 i :i 'II .MM'-^ •■,,•:■•: :.,),. ''lie 'ialj\'('.'' <";i»'M '. ...'•■• 'I'liifi' m-' ..^ii ■■ ;. ■ ■ i bill ar 'Mi;' I '■ ' i« . , ' •■! i'mt w. •■!: ' 'i:: ■. '' iUiV CtillM.illi.!";. , ! ■ , ' i". ')i i • i, • • '! ■•'. Mir. IM'.'ir--.'' '•■ > ■ • -I'/i' m: ' • .'A- >)•'. Ai -nil--'. (;• 1 ♦ . 'I ii ;i ■■ ^ ifiiii' ij;'l. ■ •■ (J '/.•- ol lli \ : I .III- ^ ^ ■•;» .J - \ : I 4 7 1840.] STATR CANOES. 93 from those seen the day before. These were of two kinds, one intended for extensive fishing, and with trifling- ornament ; the other entirely state, and gor- geously ornamented in sculpture at the stern, whicli was further decorated by plumes o^ birds of paradise. This latter had a kind of frame work, which could be immediately converted into a house, by mats there in readiness, and I am inclined to believe they generally sleep in them in preference to landing. We landed on the day following at the beach, where they had remained, and examined tl^.e woods in the immediate neighbourhood. We noticed several very peculiar piles of earth and leaves re- sembling tumuli, but were unable to trace their purpose. Having completed our suite of observations, I determined, during our delay for rating the chrono- meters, to take advantage of the interval to correct this almost unknown region, and with our reduced force, we commenced the survey. In the progress of this duty, which lasted about a week, and extended over eighty miles of longitude, we found the island which the natives pronounce Jobie, cut into deep creeks, and at twenty miles west of our rating position, formed into numerous harbours by a very extensive archipelago. In the interior, bays were observed, and several very large towns built on posts as before described, but much higher, and apparently so combined as to present a formidable defence to an attacking party. Many i i f I ft 94 NATURAL HISTORY. [184(K r of the interior spots were cultivated, and the plan- tains and other trees we observed, showed them to be well supplied. Owing to their being warned off by a musket fired over them to prevent their stealing our marks, we had little or no communica- tion with them, although several which visited the Starling at one of the out positions, gave them to understand that hogs, fruit, and the potatoe yam (of the Feejees) were abundant. Amongst the feathered tribe a very trifling addi- tion was made to our collection, probably owing to our not having sufficient leisure to penetrate into the interior, but a very beautiful cream-coloured pigeon,* was very abundant. A very curious spe- cies of a bat or flying fox, parroquets, &c., were in- numerable, but difficult to obtain, as they main- tained their perch on the loftiest trees, nearly on the summits of the island. Amongst the trees, several kinds of nutmeg were found, and these appear to abound on the main island, if we may judge from the roosting places of the pigeons, the ground beneath which was literally covered with the nuts which they had voided, as they merely feed on the outer fleshy covering. All the islands are thickly wooded, and afford excellent fuel. The Tamanu, ebony, and other hard cabinet woods, were noticed ; the lance wood of the South Seas (Casuarina equisetifolia) we cut for firewood, handspikes, and many useful purposes. * The nutmeg pigeon. 1H40.] UUIT JOBIE. 9: The reefs which generally belt these islands are well stocked with a great variety of shell-fish, some well worthy the attention of the naturalist. During our detention in this region, scarcely a day passed without a copious fall of rain, at times almost a deluge. The daily breezes were irregular, frequently from the south-west ; and the scud aloft generally travelled from that point. On the 16th August, having completed the rating of our chronometers, we recommenced our voyage, but were again teazed by our old enemies, calms, variables, and rain, which prevented our making more than twenty or thirty miles a-day. I fully expected that on clearing the high lands of Jobie, the customary trades, or sea-breezes, might reach us. In this we were disappointed, until passing what we took to be the island of Bultige. On the 21st we arrived at the termination of this group, forming a complete cluster of twenty-two small islets, rising from the same rocky flat, and pro- bably at spring-tides r early dry. As the Starling lost the breeze before reaching the passage, I deter- mined on attempting a final suite of observations at these islands, but after landing and waiting a consi- derable time, rain entirely frustrated our endeavours. It is a curious fact, that from the time of passing Yamna, until the present, not the slightest swell has been perceptible, the ripples on the weather sides of reefs not even endangering the bottoms of our light boats : a perfect still water has prevailed. 0() PASS OUELVINKS BAY. [1840. On *\ie 2'2n(\, \vc ])asso(l on tho eastern side of Lous^ Island of Maclure, our position by latitude and beariufy of Mysory proving- his survey relaticehj correct, but about thirty miles of longitude in error. Several deep indentations i)resented them- selves in Long Island, and I have little doubt but good harbours would be found within ; but no traces of inhabitants were discernible, although Maclure places a vilhige where we must have noticed it, had it at present existed. It is probably deserted. On the morning of 23rd the mainland of New- Guinea was ahead, and with a light breeze we shaped our course for " the Beehive," then in sight, hoping to reach Goelvinks Bay before sunset ; but with such imperfect charts, this could only be at a guess. At noon, our longitude placed us exactly at its entrance, but it was evident from our distance from the Beehive, that it was still at least twenty miles further to the westward. About four o'clock, we passed its probable situa- tion, but as no convenient opening presented, and nothing which I could at all assimilate to the de- scription of Goelvinks Bay, I passed on, hoping to meet with some favourable position. In this I was entirely disappointed, and therefore made up my mind to terminate my observations on this coast at the island of Amsterdam, its position having already been determined by chronometers from Point Pigot, as well as Amboyna. 1840.] ANCHOR AT AMSTERDAM. 97 New iitua- aiul e (le- g to '. was *oiiit The features of New CJuinea now resumed their bold outline, which failed about Yamna ; and " Trees Cape," (which certainly deserves a better name, and was mistaken for Cape Good Hope,) was passed on the evening of the 24th. We then found that another low cape showed on the same bearing, which being more westerly, could be no other than Cape Good Hope. During our run along the last forty miles of coast, and not more than two miles from the shore, but three villages were noticed, and no disposition evinced to put off in their canoes. Indeed, but one or two natives were observed, the remainder, probably from fear, or employment, being absent in the mountains, from whence many columns of smoke were observed to issue. On the morning of the 23rd, we had neared the islands of Amsterdam and Middleburg, suffi- ciently to proceed in the boats, the wind having nearly failed. We first directed our course towards the northern sandy point of Amsterdam, but on nearing it, found it to be dead low water, with a heavy surf setting on a rocky barrier, which pre- vented access. Contrary, however, to the descrip- tion, we found the soundings regular, as the bottom could be plainly traced from a cable's length from the breakers. On rounding the eastern end by the channel between the islands, we found safe and convenient landing on a clear sandy beach, within the eastern VOL. II. H ' ^'.SVKO:.' 98 PERIODICAL RAIN [1840. point of Amsterdam. The channel between the islands is safe, and instead of seventeen or eighteen feet, read seventeen or ei^teen fathoms. After completing a suite of magnetic as well as astronomical observations, and surveying the two islands, we bore up at sunset for Point Pigot, the evening terminating with thunder, lightning, and rain. We have observea, that in the mornings before sunrise all the outlines of the mountains and dis- tant land are beautifully distinct and free from haze. As the sun rises, vapour is generated, and they become less distinct. By nine o'clock clouds form over the mountainous peaks, and shortly cap them ; thunder (which, by-the-bye, is almost in- cessant) is distinctly heard. By four o'clock the clouds have accumulated into a dense black mass ; and from this time until eight p.m., they pour down their contents at intervals, with unsparing volume. About eight the clouds suddenly disperse, and the spangled arch is free even from scud. It is also a curious fact, that before the clouds exhibit any apparent discharge of rain, small white vapours resembling steam-clouds arise from the valleys and woods, and mingle with the black mass gathering above them, becoming more dense, and increasing in rapidity, as they approach near the clouds. This, doubtless, results from the sudden conden- sation of the vapour arising from the earth, pre- 1840.] DESCRIPTION OF AMSTERDAM. 99 jlouds I white the mass and the ideii- pre- viously heated by the sun's rays. Yet this latter phenomenon is more frequently observed, and in greater volume, after long continued rain, at the moment of clearing off, although no sun is visible. At New Ireland it was perpetual, and resembled smoke issuing from the forests. In these regions one may therefore calculate on a sound drenching once every twenty-four hours, if within twenty miles of high land. Nothing of interest occurred at these islands. They are mere coral patches, having about ten feet soil above the sea level, and are well clothed with tall trees, similar to the main island. The natives came off in their canoes to the Starling, and one uncouth Noah's ark went off to the ship, but did not communicate. In the account of these islands, they are described as two low flat islands surrounded by a reef, and about two or two and a half leagues from the coast ; the reef projecting from Amsterdam, " steep to" having fifty fathoms near, and four or five feet on it in some places. From our examination it will appear that these islands are distinctly separate, the depth between them ranging gradually from five to thirty-five fathoms mid channel ; that the soundings approach- ing them are regular from one hundred fathoms from the reef; and that in a south-east direction from the eastern sandy point of Amsterdam, good tough holding ground, in mud, may be found from twenty 11 2 100 DAMl'IEUS STRAIT. [1840. to thirty fathoms. The Starling anchored in twenty- eight fathoms mud, 2',7 miles from the point. The inner point of Middleburg is more than two miles from the coast. Wood for fuel is plentiful, and tamanu of large size overhangs the water. On the morning of the 2Gth, we found ourselves at the mouth of Dampier's Strait, but the breeze prov- ing light, did not succeed in getting abreast of Point IMgot before eight in the evening. Our noon j)08ition showed the charts to be defective, the whole eastern side of Waygiou fonning a dceyt and extensive bay, and our latitude being much to the southward of Point Pigot, although its island bore to the southward of west from us. With respect to the current also, we were much disap- pointed, not having experienced its action during the whole day. We noticed an extensive line of sand banks between Point Pigot and the south-eastern point of Waygiou, which, although of interest to the sur- veyor, are too close in to cause uneasiness to the navigator. About eight p. m., we took a fine breeze from S. S. E., which helped us for a few hours, carry- ing us past the islands off Cape Pigot. At four in the morning we found ourselves close to two low islands, and as I conjectured them to be the " Foul Islands," the ship was tacked ur til daylight, when my suspicions were confirmed. We had no sound- \ \ 1840] LAND ON I'IftKON ISLAND. 101 iii^s, witli oiu! Inindrcd futlioma, but oouM hear tlio siirt'scuuul vory (li.stiiictly. The line of curront wjih now very distinctly apparent on ':he surfaco, and with a light air from south-east, wc edged over for Pigeon Island, for the purpose of fixing one decided j)osition in this strait, as well as to obt.ain the exact time of high water ; this being th(? change of the moon. Tile stream anchor was dropped, and means taken to avail ourselves of every advantjige during our necessary delay. Our observations having been completed, and a rough survey made, we embarked about three, when the anchor was weighed, but the flood-tide having made too strong for the breeze, compelled uil' to anchor again until slack water. Our observations disagree very materially with the charts. The relative position of the islands is also very erroneous, our rough survey having narrowed the channel several miles. Pigeon Island is a mere strip of land, surrounded by a coral ledge. Landing is easily effected at half- tide, on the S.W. point : but at low water, springs, the waterline shows a steep coral belt, having some inches water within, over sand and coral, for a cable's length. The island is pretty well wooded, the whole of the S.W. point alluded to abounds with theCasuarina equi- setifolia, or Ito of Sandwich Islands, Tahiti, &c., or commonly termed "iron-wood." It is difficult to cut when of large growth, and dry ; but in its green 102 VISITED BY CHIEF OF GEDY. [1840. / ■ i state not more so than other hard woods. It forms excellent fuel, and does not ferment in the hold, an evil to be cautiously avoided in tropical regions : I strongly suspect the mangrove, and I j)laced great faith in keeping my ship clear from fever on the coast of Africa, by never admitting green wood, or that with the bark moist. We found it low water precisely at noon, and from the rapidity with which the tide flowed, as well as the current slackening off, I presume that it was high water about six p. m. At ten the breeze en- abled us to weigh, and after our usual dose of rain, and et ceteras, we cleared the straits in the morning. During our detention we were visited by several canoes, and one state canoe, having on board a per- son styling himself Captain of Gibbie, probably the island of Geby, or Ghibi, of the charts. He was well attired in oriental costume, spoke English tole- rably, and informed us that in one moon, many ships of E veral nations would visit his island. He was very anxious that the ship should proceed there, where she would obtain supplies of vegetables and fruit. During my conversation with this individual, I was rather surprised to hear him designate his people Papoos, and upon my questioning him whether they belonged to New Guinea, he explained that the lower order of Ghibi, Battanta, and others, were designated Papoos, but which had no connexion with the " Great Island" of New Guinea. I have since been informed that they are of the same race. ■ [1840. . It forms ;he hold, an regions: I laced great er on the n wood, or noon, and ed, as well ;hat it was breeze en- >8e of rain, » morning, by several )ard a per- )bably the He was iglish tole- lany ships He was ere, where : fruit, iial, I was lis people ther they the lower esignated e « Great informed / i( { f f Is ;r ,1 \ 1:1 I >':;!i{ ,!• l>lf.;^ M I t! ;)(''• I'l- IS. \<' » " .! i .1 • • .1- >ll \r\.} It. :iUu \I- lA '••■• '.'. I '» I , ' ■ . ■ 1 . 1 "s . ' I ' . 1 1 ■ li.-V 'II \ :> ;.l i'cri •> j~ .1 1 •..(' t I ■ , • / m :», m ■■ :v '^ h\ ^!^i sa^"; ;f/*^;* 'W0 'A*. i ■■Vf i'M'-* *''.■ ,/55 i^li ...Milk .■4*...*^ 'wS'fSi^. «■ •y >t-^. i.'A' r»'^ <.' .m3 ^ % M.'C' aS -"-'^• •Sf- ,v^l <'1. ,« ii^i^- -#■■* '■ ^icv:; ■:» :^-^ '■'M- •i 1840.] DESCRIPTION OF GEBY PRAHU. 103 The vessel in which this person came was one of the regularly buili prahus, or prau, (not a canoe,) but furnished with outriggers, and stages for thoso working the oars. She carried banner?, and assumed some little state. Her stem was precisely in the Spanish, Portuguese, and Italian style — rising high, with a nob. We had some difficulty, at first, in dealing with this person, who was either unwilling to trade, or waiting for a present. We succeeded in obtaining several very handsome lories alive, and a few birds of paradise, mats, &c. He did not consider the fine season as set in until next moon. His " fine sea- son" probably reckoned by the number of whale-ships and visitors who take this route in the S.W. monsoon. A fine breeze led us up to the island of Pulo Popa, which we cleared after a short tack. The Full and Change, hitherto, has been attended with rain and unsettled weather at this season, which the last twenty-four hours has fully corroborated. On the morning of the 28th August, as the rain cleared off, we found ourselves close off the coast of Ceram. Nothing could surpass the beauty of the scenery, and now, for the first time for many months, we beheld clear spots of park land, studded with a moderate proportion of trees. Of late nothing but the sombre sameness of dingy forest had met the eye, and grada- tion of shade, betwixt hill and ravine, afforded the only variation in the landscape. Here we had not only the varied yellow, brown, or green, of the clear lands or meadows, but every other forest tint ; above 104 PASS ISLAND OF CERAM. [1840. which beetling peaks, with their white weather-worn lines, occasionally peeped through the misty clouds, which but a few hours since had entirely eclipsed them, and shortly floated over their summits, merely to add fresh spirit to the scenery by their shadows. There is something more than ordinarily interesting in the rapid changes of scenery which the seaman witnf.'sses ; point after point opening and displaying bays, harbours, huts, natives, &c. We had now, however, arrived within the range of civilization, and the sight of a vessel was an occur- rence too ordinary to cause any of the natives to visit us in their canoes. Having reached within two miles of the beach, we took the fresh trade, or pro- bably sea-breeze, which by sunset carried us well clear of the Island of Coram, (pronounced Cee-ram.) As it was important to reach the nearest port, in order to save the meridian distance, I determined to stand on for Cajeli Bay, Bouro, and therefore signalled the Starling " to make the best of her way to Amboina," where she would i)repare the governor for my arrival, and remove the difficulty of obtaining immediate observations. At daylight we were well in with the island of Bouro, but too far to the southward. Horsburgh's directions are not sufficiently explicit for finding Cajeli Bay, He should have explained that " Mother and Daughter," (the latter might have been omitted, as only seen when well into the dei)th of the bay,) are two very high conical hills inland, which from 1840.] MOTHER AND DAUGHTER. 105 the sea appear as one. The eastern side is streaked white, by reason of its bare rocks. It lies on the S.E. side of the depth of Cajeli Bay, and is an excellent mark for rounding the eastern head, from the S. E. As long as i: > head can be seen above the trees at the eastern point, the ship will be perfectly clear of danger. The instant it begins to rise, after passing the point, a course may be shaped for the north point, which apparently shows as the left of an island on the N.W. shore. When mid-channel, steer with the town off the larboard cathead, until Mother bears S. E. by S. Then steer south for the fort ; shorten sail about one mile from it, and anchor at the first cast twenty-five, bottom mud, and good holding ground. The limit of danger, westerly, is the two eastern turrets of the fort in line. V^e found soundings in every part of the bay, both going in and coming out ; on the latter occasion, it never exceeded fifty fathoms, until Me hauled up E.N.E. Entering, it ranged from sixty- two, forty- two, and sixty, gravel. It frequently falls to our fate to enter ports at night, and on this occasion we did not reach our anchorage until three a.m., on the 31st., in twenty-five fathoms. Fort south, Red Island East. I paid a visit to the " resident," who was rather surprised at a visit from a British man-of-war, with out the customary notice from the governor of the Moluccas. Indeed, he scarcely comprehended 106 CAJELI BAY. [1840. the difference between a ship of war and a mer- chantman, and could not be made to comprehend that our visit was merely to look at " his sun, momy and stars'' \ ■'i 840. mer- lend CHAPTER IV. Amboina — Flattering reception by the governor — The rajahs — Visit a cavern — Mode of traveUing — Grotesque attendants — Society — Fishing trammels— Chinese town — Garrison — Capa- bilities and government of the island — Return to Bouro — Cajeli Bay examined — Passage to Celebes, Macassar — Fort — Situation of the Dutch — Solombo — Pulo Kumpal — Singapore — Receive orders to proceed to China — Prosperous state of Singapore — Palawan passage — Starling struck by lightning — Manila — Transports with invalids — Indisposition of the au- thorities towards them — Join the squadron at Chuenpee. 108 ANCHOR AT AMBOINA. [1840. CHAPTER IV. I M About four o'clock on the 1st of September, hav- ing completed our observations, we quitted Cajeli Bay for Amboina. The current at ebb sets very strong to the southward, so that, by keeping in the strength of the stream during the night, we found ourselves well to windward of the island of Amblau by daylight. At dawn on the 3rd, we were close off Noessaniva Point, and, favoured with a light easterly breeze, we soon rejoined the Starling, and found two Dutch Company's brigs at anchor within. We dropped anchor close to the westernmost, in twenty fathoms. It is customary to run the stream cable to the shore, in case of strong puffs off shore, and for this purpose, heavy anchors are already laid down, to which cables can be attached at low water. Accompanied by my friend Kellett, I proceeded immediately to call on the governor of the Moluc- cas, Colonel de Stuers, who resides at a very de- lightful spot about half a mile from the town. My reception was highly flattering, and was immediately 1840.] ANCHOR AT AIVinOINA. 100 ^n this , to jeded [oluc- fy de- My lately followed by permission to place my observatory where I pleased, and the requisite orders were im- mediately issued. After examining the governor's magnificent collection of shells, insects, and other objects of natural history, we took our leave until the dinner hour. The position selected for our observations was on the S.W. angle of the curtain of Fort Victoria, where a summer house, constmcted for taking tea and smoking, very conveniently afforded shelter, with- out the trouble of erecting tents. Occasionally the passing of the natives jarred the ground slightly; but whether by the order of his excellency, or a proper consideration on the part of the officers, we were entirely free from visitors during the progress of our observations. Those not interested in or comprehending such duties, cannot but feel that we are unwelcome guests whilst we are thus en- gaged. The inattention to questions, and the per- fect abstraction necessary for a portion of time, must appear almost as a slight on their intended courtesy. Yet, if they could but comprehend the value we attach to time, they would clearly feel the pro- priety of allowing us to enjoy our hermitage. At six the Governor sent his carriage for us, and we repaired to his beautiful retirement, where we were introduced to Madame de Stuers. Once more we congratulated ourselves on regaining society, from which, excepting a few short moments at Tepic, Sitka, and Lima, we had been almost excluded since 1836. I !R i % 1 I no GOVERNOR OP THE MOLUCCAS. [1840. The governor and Madame both speak English well, and were unremitting in their polite attentions. They are both strongly imbued with the taste for natural history, and appear to enjoy perfect happi- ness, even in this distant region, by constant applica- tion to rational pursuits. They have a fine healthy and beautiful family, consisting of three boys and three girls, the eldest boy being about ten years old. Madame is the daughter of General de Kock, now minister of the interior in Holland, and formerly governor-general at Java, where I believe madame was born. It is, therefore, surprising that she does not, according to the custom of India, give way to the habit of consuming the greater part of the day in the siesta, which I believe to be very enervating. Activity appears to be their motto, and blooming health results. On their passage hither in a steamer they were wrecked upon the Turtle Islands, near Goonong Apee, not more than a hundred and twenty miles from their destination. There they experienced great hardships, and probably would have perished, had not one of the boats reached Timor or Java, and brought them assistance. Another boat fell into the hands of the pirates, but the crew were eventually recovered by ransom. At the period of our visit the rajahs from the neighbouring islands had assembled at Amboina, to try their disputes, for which purpose the governor presides in court twice in the year. The court is 1840.] COURT OF RAJAHS. Ill composed of the president, assisted by twenty-four rajahs ; the cause is heard before them, and the law explained, so that the award is nearly the act of their own body. I was informed that it is a very tedious operation to make them understand the law, or be convinced (probably against their will) of its infallibility. After the third day, on which the business terminated, the governor, according to cus- tom, gave the rajahs an entertainment, to which my officers and self were invited. I fully expected to have seen all the rajahs in splendid costumes, but the greater part of them were dressed as Europeans, and had nothing in particular to distinguish them from the general residents. After dinner their healths were drunk, and "success to their clove planta- tions." The governor was kind enough to make a party the following morning to visit a cavern in the moun- tains, as well as afford us a sample of the style in which he travels in these regions. At six o'clock his carriage conveyed us to his house, where a host of natives with open palanquins were assembled. During the delay of taking coffee, a band of seven grotesquely dressed men, with swords and shields, birds'-head helmets, adorned with the feathers of the cock, or birds of paradise, (very much in the merry-andrew style observed at our fairs in Eng- land,) danced to the sound of a drum and gong, keeping excellent time, and imitating the attack and defence of war parties; intimating that your ad- ■ 'f ' 112 visir THK cAvr.RN. [1^^4(>. vunct' was (>|)|)os(»(l until tlirir (Tivinony or mode of saluto was (•oinj)loto. Having inountcd our palancjuins, to oach of wliicli twolvo boarors were appointed, the baud and dancers, prccodod by two Dutch cnsi^jfus, led tlie way. Our journey lay over very nllppery ground, \i liavin<^ rained hard all the j)recedin^ ni^ht, and some of ilio steeps wore so very rugj^ed, that one could with difficulty keep his seat in the palanquin. Some of the party got out and walked, an example which I felt much inclined to follow, but as the governor remained seated, I considered it etiquette to main- tain my state, even at the risk of my bones. At every hundred yards, or prol)ably at such intervals as the leader of the band considered the bearers out of wind, the dancing guard obstructed our progress until their fantastic ceremony was complete. We enjoyed several very beautiful prospects from the heights, M-hicli i)robabIy would have been still more brilliant had the sun favoured us. But we could well spare his presence, and enjoyed the cool fresh air resulting from the late showers infinitely more than the steam heat which his rays would in- evitably have produced. About half-past seven we reached the mouth of the caveni, which the rajah of the district had already prepared for our entry, by a range of stakes forming steps down the first steep descent. The depth was not great, nor from the nature of the 10 I8J0.J VISIT CAVi;. li:{ Holl Wiis tlic.'i' iniu'li stalactitic concretion. hats wore numerous, as well as crustaccous spiders, and (•rickets of a curious kind. Tlie swallows which construct tiie nidi r.srn/cnti, or edilde l)irds' nests, were hero unintt3rruj)ted. I ol)tainod tablet notiiif^ tue visit of Captain D'Urville, c()niinandin«^ the exj)edition of the Astro- labe and Zelee, which was placed there by the fiscal or chief m.igistrate. Our return was much in the same style ; when, hav- ing breakfasted at the governor's, wo returned to the ship. In the evening w(? rejoined the governor's |)arty at a ball, where we saw all the youth find beauty of the colony, and waltzing and (juadrilles were main- tained with great spirit until a late hour. With the exce}>tion of four or five, all the young ladies were born of native mothers, or of native extraction, in the colony. Of the whole collection not an or- dinary face was visible ; all were pretty, several very handsome. The attentions of our kind host and hostess were unremitting. Indeed, from the moment of arrival until we took our final leave, hardly an hour elapse town arc in adinirahli^ onlcr, and afl'onl Hcvcral vi'i'V pleasant r'ulvH. I a<'('om|»ani(Ml tlic ^jovcrnor to cxatninc ono of tlu'ir lisliin/f trainniciN at IiIh H(>a-si(l(» cottn^^M', which is sitnatcd about two niiicN from the fort. Tlie manner of c(»nHtruction is in»'(Miions. StakcH arc driven into the ;ifronnd in the tip^nre of a broad arrow, tht^ barbs incurved to iuilf tlu>ir h'li^i^th. The apex is formed simihir to a mouse-trap. This is surmounted by three others; that outside bein^ the |)reserve. All tlic barbs are fitted with hinges, by which the angular a|)ertnrecan be closed at tlu! plea- Huroofth*' |)ers(m on watch, who generally lives on tlu' sta^e in ".lack-straw's iiouse." Tlu^ outt^r preserve is ^I'lierally in three fathoms water, and the upper frame-work woighte altlioiin;|i ilic little iinininlH w(>rr not tnllcr tliaii Scutcli |M»iii»'s, tiicv <')irri('ai' to maintain tlic lii|>'li cliaractiT tiicy liavc for industry in otlior parts of the vvcirld ; possibly the laws restrain them from indnl<;in;if in hucIi specula- tions as th(\y would jirefer. I was rather f tlieir shops well stored, for^cttin;? tluMr limited coninmnication with llieir own (Numtry. Amhoina is ^arrisoni i| Wy companies, partly Dutch partly Malay, commanded ]>y a lieutenant-<'olonel, who keej)S them actively drilhsd vwij nu>rnin^ at six, and frecpiently in th(^ evenings. Their ap|)ear- aiu'o speaks for their health. Jn the ev(Miin^ the officers anmse themselveH at the club with billiards, cards, &c. They are recpiired to server a certain numln^r of years ])ef()re tlu^y are entitled to a pension, and no officer is permitted to marry, uid(;s8 he can give secuHty that himself and his intended possess enough to maintain them respectably. The brig of war mounts twenty thirty-two ])oun(lers, u[)on verysmall tonnage, butappears to l)ekt!pt in very creditable kelter. The European part jf her crew are preserved from undue exposure by part com[)le- I 2 lit) DUTCH VESSRL OF WAR. [1840. ^1 ment of Malays, who perform wooding, watering", and other heavy duties, similar to our Krou-meii on the coast of Africa. Our officers received mucli attention from the army and navy ; indeed, from the governor downwards we were to all deeply indebted. The governor having accepted an invitation to a second breakfast, accompanied me in my *^ig, in full uniform ; the Starling having been ordered to hoist the Dutch national colours, fired the necessrry salutes to the flag, as well .is personal salute. His own state barge, however, was in wjsiting, a splendid kind of " city barge," manned by Malays, and decorated with three large Dutch ensigns. The lieutenant- colonel, chief magistrate, suite, &c., came off in her. Owing to the tie of observations, chronometers, &c., I was unable to spare time to visit the clove gardv^ns, or make any protructed excursion into the country, which was several times proposed by my kind friend, the governor. The nutmeg trees are very com- mon,and produce abundantly, but thefruit is inferiorto that of Banda, not yielding the sam-; quantity of oil, which in the Chinese market is important. The natives manufacture various ornamental articles, as work-boxes, urns, prahus, &c., from the clove; and the native-born young ladies occupy their leisure hours in making fancy flowers from the feathers of the numerous parroquets, lories, and other gaudy- plumaged birds with which these islands abound. Amboina, although not yielding plentifully from its [1840. it OVlUg, men on much [•om the (lebted. on to a , in full to hoist r salutes lis own ilid kinil ecorated utenant- e off in 1840.] NECK OF LAN1>. 117 own harbour, is the nucleus where the shells from the Moluccas are usually assembled, and where they generally find a good market. The islands of Ceram and Goram appear to contribute not only largely, but also the greater number ot rare shells. The island of Amboina itself presents one of na- ture's freaks, being almost divided at its northern end. At one period the Dutch attempted to cut a passage through, and in part succeeded. This has been i)artially filled up, althoug!* T nni giver to understand that at j)resent the large prahus are floated and carried across, so as to prevenx the necessity of going out by Noessaniva, when bound to Ceram. The Dutch maintain their sway over the island of Ceram ; have forts established on it ; and by the ceremony before alluded to, viz. the biennial visit to decide their legal differences before the governor at Amboina, the natives distinctly acknowledge their su- premacy. Gillolo, Ternate, and Tide re, are subject to the Sultan of Tidore, who, I am o-iven to understand, is in turn, either subject to, or under more than close alliance with, the Dutch government. All these islands, including the Banda group, ^lanada, (on Celebes,) Mindanao, Oby Major, and a few settle- ments on the shores of New Guinea, are under the authority and surveillance of the governor of the Molluccas, who usually makes his annual tour of inspection, when I understand he is well received. Indeed, we ourselves witnessed the attachment ex- pressed liy those assembled here. / if t! IIH NA(JO IK KM. [JHIO. \ \ 1 I Acconiiii^ to (Mistoin in nil sonii-civili/tMl luitions, ulu»r<»vsilioiii!», honro, (-iM'um, iui(Mir(«(l in a l»ori/o»ital position, and an opiMun^ ho'w^ cut on its upper Nurf'aco, tlio cHMitro, wliicli is about oiu^lit-tiMitlis of tlio <'a|»acity, is si'oopod out as rtMpiircd. "lantations, p^ardrns, &<•., (lourisli ; aid notliin^- !)Ui, ciio dosiro of .ifain, or of lu'inij; in a condition to assunio tlio I'^uropcan ^arb, can excite; tlu; natives to labour. The cultivation of the patches awarded by ^overnniont is kept up by a kind of tax on tenure, and these are quarantined by n^sponsibh; rajahs. ATUonjifst the many presents constantly arriving from my kind friiMid, 1 cannot omit to mention that important addition to our Z(.oh\u^ical collection, the Habyroussa ho^ ; which, from its docility and hav- ii Of been reared from younpf, |>romised to see h)u}r- land safe ; unless inclee(■ Sr|»t«'nilH'r, uiid ri ■ •It I i> ; \ 1 i- ! , .'1 ►V* 1 f * <■• •'<■• ')'*(»««>•■''■ ■'. (si I ^ . '->\ t'W' r» . u-Vi*« . •■ Mariri";' .i" tll<' i.>r ',!••t'•■• HI'? ^'t"',--., jr, -n* : it'll '«<' ">■* i me' <'V' T* "'•' '-^ • il!' !..,■! -I" "-I . .•>;.•*• !•!■ i V ♦^11 I "' / ,-*?*'. . l? h 1840.] DUTCH FKIGATK ROTTKUDAM. 1*23 On tlie (lay following I iiecepted an invitation to a parting dinnor given to the captain and ofticors of the liottordani, wliicli passed ott' pleasantly, by dancing until midnight. Our labours having ter- minated on the 3()th, we took our departure on the Ist of October for Great Solombo and Singapore ; the Rotterdam having sailed on the 29th for JJa- tavia. The civilities offered to myself and officers at this port left no weight of obligation on our minds. With the exception of the chief magistrate, who of- fered me every assistance, I had no acquaintance. The fort of Macassar stands on the S.W. angle of the town, disconnected by a ditch and high ram- part, within the walls of which reside the military, amounting in all to about three hundred, inclusive of a squadron of cavalry. The town, which is walled, is very regularly built, extending about one quarter of a mile by half a mile on its squares, and having three gates on its southern face, which are closed at nine o'clock. The Chinese appear to constitute the majority of the population witliin the town ; but the huts of the natives extend considerably to the northward, and appear to be very thickly inhabited. All the coast- line displays a large proportion of population, and the small islands also are not deficient in this respect. They are probably fishermen. Indeed the approaches from seaward afford very strong testi- mony to the piscatory pursuits of the natives ; their 124 NATIVIIS (»F ( r.LLKUKS. [1840. / Ikwouk, wliicli wtTo frt'(|U(»ntI)' fouiHl in wixtot'ii uiul HCVt'iitiHMi fathoms, inducing abcliofiii shoal water, aiiy M V V «> «, V r.: ' ^ K ^ r^ ^ ij." ,.;fnc;r,\5i 1 ..» s ;i.-«!iinn 'i i -:'iky, mi^j ,:'i:)':- .".•. \siiich \\.i> un_\*! ;iiv )in; |i:<'j+v tsT ^l-nr ill-h ifHour ' l;< !' ( wislit'-i ti> r>'!nPlMi' ■•'■- Tiicv w-Vi' i\v'\ . \ri->--i> ( ] V j)!»li;. ill It. 'Ml !",.iM!H'r. .N",i" W" M?i.>ii!5' li : :^' •sioi ,il!\ t!i"v '"irvv t!,> • I"., ..nii i 'i''- 1 ■■>' >-.'■' ','. • r- ; i'' . • -- 1 , :i;( ;•! fciMUi'.' ■ 1 ;' I ;i ■«: I M'l -? •>!. •.•.!' ■ :'.• ■ ■ .; ■ •. ; . Pm-* t.im uiii • :- \;:;'m. ':■■•• ■ ;■/ ' W ' •:• :i . I -:• ji.-'-i ( ■': •I '^ - i w '. ( . n Tic j\.!-i' I: 'i -.1 \l;!' ;•■■>.,■ I ■- , . ■(; I , ■• :! u'l;; ui > It !-iin!. ;r rni 'r-.i'i >•; ■.))1- oiW • MS? I: I h\ tl,;.t i' ■■! »'.,.!• !■ (! ■r. I ■IlK'.lMI' '••■;ni;ur '{" !. N, jv^' ' !• I'onzon ai! ■!'!•'' •)!) rij'> ■;i,-":f;t.,!' ; i. • ,'■l•^f^^,l!•ur]ivvarM (jM? .•ili; ifii H ^.;|| .' ! ,,,,1 i 1 iii; ■■)■>'•'/.' i,,i-f).- .:ii.-', i; •llp )l,I [• \ I- rr. )\ i A >'):J':t rmmm I w i ■4: :--«?-. T^- - ^ ..■^_-. ■•.'<^ ."^^ ■'■■ •.^- -> ■ ■ •■■V ^Nii?*.-. . ^,>» -f :l ^'y 1840.] POSITION OF MACASSAR. 125 contrary, are generally undersized, ill-looking, moody, and might easily have been stirred into brutality. Even the higher grades assumed a sulky, suspicious air, which was anything but prepossessing, and they appeared at all times ready for mischief. But I never failed in making them throw off their ill-humour M'hen I wished to communicate. They were even excessively polite in their manner. None go unarmed; generally they carry the kris, and those of rank are followed by an attendant with a silver-mounted hunting-spear. Their costume is Arabic, their religion Mahomedan. The port appears to possess an extensive coasting trade, if one may judge from the numerous large prahus at anchor and on the move ; but I am informed that their exports will not cover the specie they require for the purchase of European commodities. The position of Macassar is reckoned particularly salubrious. The atmosphere is very dry, and, unlike any of the positions we have lately "Visited, we found it entirely free from rain during our visit. I am told that it seldom rains, and is very similar to the climate of Lima. Nevertheless the horizon and atmosphere on the mountains is very hazy. The sea-breeze generally sets in regularly about ten o'clock, commencing from the southward, and veers to the westward before sunset, when it fails» and is succeeded about ten o'clock by a cool land- breeze. The thermometer ranged during our visit from 74° to 94". Stock is plentiful and reasonable. 120 I'R/hUS. ^. I 1' :• ) ' I [1840. .ia well Jis vo/j^otables ; hut no tablo roquisitos or wines are to be procured. Their prabus are peculiar. PRAHUS OF MACASSAR. Quitting Macassar, our course was directed to pass to the northward of the Northern Brother, crossing the Taiiakeke ledge, on which the chart gives nothing less than nine fathoms. About eight p. M., in heavy ripplings, we shoaled to four and a half fathorp.s, when we tacked, and stood to the eastward, anchoring in five fathoms. The current set very strong to the W.N.W., and the boats sent to sound, reporting nothing under four, we again tripped, and shortly deepened to thirteen fathoms. By daylight this would have been of little import- ance, but the dangers of the region being almost unknown, and heavy overfalls surrounding us, our situation was anything but pleasant. On the 3rd of October, we made the island of Solombo, but were unable to reach our anchorage I i 1840.] FRESH WATER LAKE. 12; before dark. After rounding the S.W. angle, and coming suddenly into eight fathoms, I hauled to the southward, to determine the range of soundings, and gr}idnal!y edged in, letting go our anchor in ten fa- thoms. Daylight showed that our usual gond fortune attended us, as had we stood on half a mile further, we certainly would have been too near to be pleasant. In the morning we succeeded in landing, to save the astronomical observations for time, and having obtained our suite of magnetic observations, I found the officers, with their boat's crews, engaged hunting wild buffalo. The reports 01 muskets were fre- quent, but, although one was badly wounded, our sportsmen did not reward us by the sight of a car- cass. Up a small valley near the southern point, our men noticed a small fresh- water lake, appa- rently staked, which would lead oie to infer that there were natives or sojourners concealed. How- ever, we did not perceive even a trace of a footstep on the sands, nor anything resembling habitations or their ruins. The mysterious piles, indicating the work of human beings, as noticed in every island within the New Guinea range, were numerous. The composition of the island appears to be vol- canic, belted, as usual, by compact coral limestone, thro igh which the black amygdaloidal rocks pro- trude. The island is well wooded, and has a crowned elevation with two cones (about three hundred feet above the sea level) near its southern extremity. Landing is easily effected at high water, 128 ANCHOR AT I'ULO KUMPAL. [1840. li; but not \\'ltljout wet foot or oven wadiiif?, nearer than half a mile from our place of observation, at low water. It is probable that better landing may 1)0 found in the bay immediately within the south ]ioint, but neither time nor duties admitted of de- torminino; this question, or even how far it might be practicable to water. We were released by the flowing tide, just before sunset, and having com- pleted our observations, weighed and pursued our voyage, steering for the Mancap shoals off the south- west extremity of the island of Borneo, hoping to be able to meet, with some position for a magnetic station in that neighbourhood. On the morning of the 7 th of October, we rounded the shoals of Pulo Mancap, but being then in seven fathoms, and no island near, I determined on running for Pulo Kumpal, (Rendezvous Island ;) and with a favourable breeze reached the anchorage within one mile of the point selected for observing, by noon. This is considerably nearer as well as much safer anchorage than the charts admit. The Starling afterwards took up her position within one eighth of a mile, but had rocky bottom. No time was lost in selecting our position and landing our instruments, nor did the island offer any inducement to expend time in making any very critical examination, beyond the composition of our immediate location, (as regarded magnetic disturb- ance,) which was found to be a mixture of contorted slaty aiiJ sandy schistus, traversed by veins of quartz, 1840.] PASS ISLAND OF CARIMATA. 129 tho general mass havlnf^ apparently undergone vol- canic action. It had not the slightest effect on tlie needles, although the slaggy edges apparently offered traces of iron. Having completed our observations, and a simple survey of the anchorage and outlines of the neigh- bouring islands, we took our departure at sunset, October 8th, shaping our course for the Carimata group. Light variable winds prevailed. On the 9th, we passed the southern Carimata. On the 14th, made Bintang, and about eight p. m., on tho 15th, passed to the northward of Pedro Branca, where, the wind and tide proving adverse, we dropped anchor until daylight, when we resumed our course for Singapore, and reached that port about nine a. m. on the loth. Hoving been visited by the master at- tendant, I called oil the governor, Mr. Bonham, who was excessively civil ; and as our observations and occupations did not admit of disturl)ance, he allotted me the recorder's house, where Captain D'Urville had preceded me. From the utter improbability of our touching at this port on our homeward voyage, I had not the most remote idea of meeting with despatches orlettei's. To my surprise, Iiowever, several official letters were presented to me; and this surprise was not a little increased by one from their lordships, directing me " immediately to retrace my steps and join the commander-in-chief in China." Orders, it appeared, had been transmitted to San Bias, via Mexico, di- VOL. II. K 13(> ORDERS TO REP*iR TO rrilNA. [1840. 'I ' . i I I; 1 In ? rectin«y mo to proceed direct to Cliina, ])nt having quitted previous to tlieir arrival, we liad thus lost the first onset of active operations. I hardly know whether I am safe in saying that pleasure or disaj)pointinont prevailed. To those reduced to their last shreds hy a five years' absence, I presume that the hopes of home predominated. However, for myself, I could not but feel the com- pliment * item^ \, p id the importance of straining f very uetw to satLit) my patrons that, although late in the -elc I wuaid do my best. This induced me to put up witii mai J inconveniences, in order to get my ship to sea : but with all our exertions, caulking, refitting, and provisioning, wo did not succeed in moving until daylight of the 23rd of October. The botanical collector of seeds from Kew, con- ceiving himself out of his 8])here in our prospective cruize, requested permission to return to England with his collection. Several invalids were also sent away, whose constitutions could not stand further exposure, as also our Ejucurean friend the Baby- roussa hog. The port of Singapore has been so frequently described, that anything like a history of its march would appear superfluous. Nevertheless, thus much I think may be safely advanced, that under its pre- sent worthy and spirited governor, it is making rapid strides in advancement as well as importance. The buildings are all in princely style, and viewed from the sea, will soon contest the title of the City of [1840. nit having 1 thus lost saying that To tljosc rs' absence, dominated. )! the com- if straining though late nduced me >rder to get s, caulking, succeed in )ber. Kew, con- prospective England also sent 11(1 further the Baby- frequently its march thus much r its pre- king rapid lice. The wed from 10 City of 1840.] IMPROVEMENTS. 131 Palaces with its more wealthy predecessor. Those who could at this moment view from the Governor's Hill what has been effected, and is now in progress, from marsh to city, would really be astonished at whnt wealth, perseverance, and bold design can effect. On the northern side of the stream are situated the private residences of the merchants' (little pa- lates) public offices, &c., behind which, on a mound rising two hundred feet above the sea, on a fine airy commanding position, stands the dwelling of the governor, as well as the signal station. To the soutlnvard of the river all is commer'-lal, comprehending the warehouses and counting-h jU; s of the merchants, as well as the shops of tuv rv- « merous Chinese. All is activitv, river aiid : Greets alive with human beings, and the port, almc i oo closely, thronged with vessels from every clime. The nature of our duties, as well as the very short period of sojourn, prevented our seeing much of the residents. To the governor I feel that my able coadjutor Kellett and myself are under consi- derable obligation for his unremitted kindness during our short stay, as well as his anxiety to further the success of our operations. We had also the ])lea- sure of becoming acquainted with Lieutenant Elliot of the Madras Engineers, in charge of the Magnetic Observatory, and were enabled to compare our instru- ments with his splendid suite before moving to Cliina. Previous to our departure, thn French frigate Magicienne, Captain Roy, arrived from Iciest and Cal- K 2 132 QUIT SINGAPORE. [1840. cutta on lior way to Manila and Cliina. I liad the pleasure of paying liini a visit on board his friji^ate, and felt re^r"*^ t so short an accjuaintance, and the impossibility, from want of time, to show him tlu; attention which, under other circumstances, I should have been delighted to do. A light breeze helped us but tardily towards Piedra Branca, or white rock, which serves as the beacon in those straits, and never did light breezes weigh so heavily on us as at this moment. About noon we discovered canvass evidently of our own hue, and shortly after exchanged numbers with Iler Majesty's brig Crnizer, Cai)tain Giffard. Knowing him to be direct from tlie China fleet, our anxiety to learn particulars was very strong. He shortly came on board, and although ho had but little to commu- nicate, that little was to the effect that nothing hos- tile had yet taken place, and that we miglit yet be in time to share in hostilities. This served as a fresh spur to lose not a moment in reaching the commander-in-chief. We, there- fore, took leave, and hastened on for China. Light airs compelled us to anchor off Piedra Branca until daylight, when we resumed our voyage. I had already made up my mind, owing to the late- ness of the season, to take the Palawan passage, and it so happened that on reaching the ofling, the pre- vailing breezes left us no alternative. We were much worried by heavy rains, squalls, variables, &c., ]>reventing our obtaining the latitude ; and had we not !!: HM).] STAIILINCI STRUCK IIY LKIIITNINC. i:)3 fortiinutfly pjisst'd cIohc to Low Island, vvv hIiouM have been niudi puzzled how to act. During a heavy scjiiall, a kind of whirlwind and whirli)0(d (•onil)in >d, which barely cleared our Hying jib-boom, passed close under our lee without damage. On the morning of the !iHtli of ()ctol»er we found ourselves to the S.E. of the great Natuna, M'ith fine weather and light breeze from S.W., enabling us to dry our feathers. On the evening of the 29th, with breezes varying from E.S.E. to W.S.W., we i)assed off tlie bank of soundings, our last depth being in one hundred and ten fathoms. On the night of Saturday, the 7th of November, we exi)erienced a very severe visit of thunder, lightning, and rain. The forked lightning darted around us, and ai)parently inboard, with awful explosions of thunder, fortunately without wind. At daylight we found that the Starling had her foremast, topmast, and topgallant mast shattered, and three of her crew wounded by the electric fluid. Every exertion was made to secure the foremast by the assistance of our spars, and by noon she was in a condition to limj) along with us, until they tried how much it would stand. By Sunday, the 15th of November, we had only reached the northern end of the island of Balabac. On the 18th, we were off the Royal Captain Shoal; which by night is certainly most dangerous, particu- larly if a vessel should unfortunately find it to the S.W. with light winds. We tacked within one I I ' ( J ; i:u I'ASH (iOAT IMLANI). [184(K ('ji1)Il''m lL'ii;;tli of Itn S.W. oxtivmity. It Is not more tluiii oiu' inilv in diainotrr. On tlio IJJtIi wo nmdc Jiombuy Shoal, passing within half a cable of its wi'stt-rn cxtrcnio ; no bot- tom with ono hundred and Hfty fathoms. These patches are hin^oon le«; j„ I CHAPTER V. Naval force in the Canton river — The forts of Chuenpce and Ty- cocktow attacked — Destruction of the war-junks — Preparations for forcing the Bocca Tigris — A barhcr surgeon made prisoner — Turned to account — Operations suspended — The captured fortsgivenup — Squadron descends the river — Take possession of Hong-kong — IlostiUties resumed — Return to the Bocca Tigris — A battery constructed on South Wangtong — The forts of the Bocca Tigris cannonaded and stormed — Cruelties of the Sepoys — Ascend the river — Affair of the First Bar Fort — The Cam- bridge burnt — Unmask a battery — A man killed — Taks pos- sessiou of " Ilowqua's Folly" — Chinese charges for a gun — Operations in the river, and before Canton — Another truce and its remarkable terms — The Commodore goes to Calcutta. 140 AFFAIRS AT CHUENPEE. [1840. CHAPTER V. Neither letters nor orders awaited us ; in fact, no- thing was known about us ; and (as some could not keep their own counsel) we were viewed as little bet- ter than interloi)ers. On this day they had exjjccted hostilities. Had they taken place, we certainly should have been in sight, but there our part would have ended. We found, however, nothing at present in contemplation, and for some time we were kept on the tenter hooks of expecta tion. Our time was not, however, passed in idle ness, as we managed to carry on our immediate survey up to the battery ranges, and otherwise make ourselves acquainted with the ground. The Starling rejoined us on the 23rd December. Various connnunications having i)assed between Her Majc^sty's Plenipotentiary and the Chinese au- thorities, decided ojjerations were now in conteni|)hi- tion. Our force consisted of the undermentioned slii])s: Wellesley, 78, Captain Maitland, l)eariiig the broad pendant of Connnodore Sir J. G. Urenier; I i < 1840.] ENEMY S WORKS. 141 Jilonhoim, 74, Sir II. Le Fleming Scnhouse, K.C.I I. ; Melville, 74, Hon. R. S. Dundas ; Calliope, Capt. Herbert ; Samarang, 28, Capt. Scott ; Druid, 44, C.ipt. Smitli ; Sulphur, Commander Belcher ; Larne, 18, Commander Blake ; Hyacinth, 18, Commander Warren; Modeste, 18, Commander Eyres: Colum- bine, 18, Commander Clarke; Starling, Lieut. H. Kellett. Steamers, Queen, Nemesis, Madagascar, and Enterprize. Chuenpee, oi* Shakok, is supposed to be the outer defence to Canton river, but ships can easily pass it, and even through in the direction of Tycocktow (or Taikok) without much danger from shot from either battery. The first battery on the crest of Chuenpee, in the hands of practised gunnei-s with good ordnance, would be a serious obstruction. The island of Chuenpee is entirely composed of small hills, rising from a general level, which attbrds good valley passes for troops, liy a rcconnoissance, almost overlooking the enemy's works, it was ov\- dent that troops could advance, if covered by shipping on the west to create a diversion, and that the hi' I of Chuenpee once in our hands, the batteries bi - neath were untenable. The Chinese had thrown p a very perfect ditch, extending from the sea on i lo west, and completely surrounding their entrenc >.od camp, and, moreover, had guns placed to comni; iid the several valley passes. Tycocktow was an open-faced battery, which must inevitably tall under a direct attack from the shipping. 142 ACTION AT CHUENPEE. [1841. On tlio morning of the 7th of January the order of battle was issued. The western division, for tlie attack of Tycocktow, was placed under the command of Captain Scott of the Samarang, having under his orders the Druid, Modeste, and Columbine. The eastern division, under Captain Herbert, consisted of Calliope, Larnp, Hyacinth ; steamers. Queen and Ne- mesis, with boats of Sulphur, &c.. Commander Bel- cher, who was ordered to place Queen and Nemesis to shell the enemy from the heights ; and afterwards to attack the enemy's war junks. The troops and marines were to be landed, and advance by the valley, direct on the enemy's works ; the brigade commanded by Major Pratt, 26th (Cameroiiians.) This force consisted of a battalion of Royal Marines, under their gallant chief. Captain Ellis; a detachment of Royal Artillery, one twenty-four pounder howitzer, and two field-pieces, drawn by sea- men, from Wellesley, Blenheim, and Melville ; the whole commanded by Captain Knowles, Royal Artillery; detachments of 2Gth Cameronians; and 37th native infantry, under Major Pratt, amounting in all to about fourteen hundred men. The brigade, as before stated, under the command of Major Pratt. The divisions landed about half-past eight. The Samarang led her division in gallant style, direct for the centre of tlu^ battery, anchoring within half a cable's length of the walls, followed by the Modeste, Druid, and Columl)ine ; and quickly and gallantly was [1841. order of for the jommaiid under hia le. The nsisted of I and Nc- idcr Bel- Nemesis fterwards roops and ; by the B brigade tiians.) of Royal in Ellis ; enty-four n by sea- ille ; the Royal ans; and nounting brigade, |)f Major ht. The lirect for In half a [odeste, lintly was 1841.] DESTRUCTION OF WAR JUNKS. 143 ^, their work achieved. Queen and Nemesis were didy placed, and dropped their shells prettily, the Queen firing the first shot, or " o])ening the ball," as Jack had it, when Calliope, Hyacinth, and Larne, an- chored and opened on the Lower Chuenpee. On observing the marines about to enter the upper battery, I transferred myself to Nemesis, and pushed on with our division of boats for the junks, giving Lower Chuenpee a dose of grape and canister, ^vithin pistol range. The Nemesis, drawing not more than five and a half or six feet, enabled us to get close up with the junks before opening fire, when several well-directed guns put them completely into confu- sion. The first rocket pitched into the magazine of the ship next the admiral, and she blew up in great style. This settled the affair. The boats th.>?. i:;oved on, and set fire to the junks in the lower i»art of the river, but in ascendwag the nuiin brancli, those retreating under ••anvasn kept uj> a very spirited fire on the chasing boats, very gallantly kej)t in check by Lieut. Watson, of the Calliope. The increase of force soon decided their fate ; two ran on shore, and the remaind«n* made their escape. The Nemesis having entered by the deoji channel, came up in time to give the five retreating junks a dose, when the falling tide, and lateness of the hour, rendered it necessary to ensure her return. We first ran alongside the town, and selecting three of the most suspicious looking craft, they were towed dowm. T 0» •J 144 ADMIRALS lUJTTON RESTORRD. [1S41, One provincf to bo merchant property, siiid lier owners iini)lorin;? lior rcstitntion in tlie most .'iU'ect- in^ manner, I released it; tli(5 otlier two were towed out, but one grounding- outsiannerH, and out moved a Tankea boat, with an old nuiu and woman r.rhiliit'iini a letter, f was within shot of her in the Queen, about half way between her and thecom- m(»dore, and j)erfectly aware of its meaning'; but it appeared to the other officers of t1)e scpiadron not a little strange that the fla;;' of truci' answered this iioii-ojiria/ demonstration from the old woman. Up went the ffa^' of truce, and action was annulled, before the cimtcnts of that ])a]ter eonid be known. Under the customary |)racti('e of war, action had commenced, and we were certainly entitled to anchor, " nmzzle to nniz/le," when their colours were thus struck, and in that condition settle the terms of nepfociation ; even if tlie act were not deemed a I'irtual surrender. On the l)3th of January, the Callio])o, Sulphur, Modest e. Columbine, and Starlinsion to the Mli>niands of l'a|»tain J'iliiot, as cndrndieil in the treaty. The only important point td which nv«' lu'came oflicially parties, was tlie cession "f the ishmd of llongkon*if, situated olf the peninsuh-i of ('owh)oM. witidn tile ishmd of Lama, antl on the northern side of entrance through the L(»mma channel. Captain Scott, of the Samarau";', havin«»: heen h^ft heliin*! to give up the demolished furts of Chnenpee andTycocktowto theCliiuese authorities, t lie s«pia\vaii, an ii i< r ( 111! If i' < i>'\ :i.ii . I !! ,X<' •-!; V ll'lT'l •'H'lKliiK .i\< !i \ •hi .••i,;m ! I ■ 1 '■ < : ! . • ! , : 1 1 i;i!!!'i' \ • 'I! '.. t .11!! .-» ,-| u ;f|' Ml v I vv 1-1 ■•■ M, •» lli "•(I. -.i.'l: \ \, ;■'■)■ --k,'- 1' rm:s!^'- ^^'^■ ■ i ■A* .;;v>^*- «' %■'■ - if*' ^^V-JW^^ ?^ '1:,..'"'T. ■. :.:r i^^v.-v^-'v. ■ :-^- fo-^iwJ^'^viV^^-./^t^.^.^^^. ■ «,v.* f»6Bi>/<''- ''-'»' 41 1. rt- 1H41.] DKsruoY KIUST llAlt I'tiUT, ir)i 1 liiul jiroinisd'tl Csijitjiin llt'i'l>ert, iUr instant lio iip- proiK lu'«l, t(» join him. Tiio Sulphur anchortMl iihosul, ill su|)port <»r th(* st('aiiu'r.s, ami after watching tho oH'cct of a 1('U' of our rcd-hitt HJiot, I joined Calii(»pe, wluMi she Mas placed within and ahead of the Sulpinir, and after one hroadsiiU* it was de- temiined t(» storm. The otluT sliips ancliored in rotation. In refutation of Commander r»in<^lianrs hearsay account, (p. \^yl to 15H,) it is merely necessary to refer to the ]»ul)lic despatch on tiie cai>tnri; of First liar Fort, and it will then appear that the junior cor- vette did not lead into action, but that the facts arc as above stated. A hard end)ankment fortunately afforded us ex- cellent footing-, and tlie marines having been drawn nj), and Captain Herbert joined the van, wc entered without o|)position on the S.W. anole of the bat- tery, one J)arty taking' the eastern line, and the remainder the; sea face. At some points the enemy behaved M'ell; but as they could not stand an in- stant against disciplined men, a very few moments made the battery our own. The oidy liviiif^ i)ri- soners were two fine little horses, which were cast in the ditch, but helped out. One of the party mounted one of them, but was glad to be left be- hind, as, immediately on regaining the use of his limbs, he scampered ott' to the enemy. The instant the battery was attacked, Lieut. Watson, first of Calliope, crossed tlieir gig over the li 1 m ' » i I "if i! 15G CAMBRIDGE BLOWN UP. [1841. floating bridge, and boarded the Celestial frigate^ Cambr'dge. The crew had fled, and she was soon in flames. About dark, slie blew up with a mag- nificent explosion. The solid wall or column of flame exceeded three hundred feet, and was capped by a mushroom head, of apparently fluid fire. In a few seconds not a vestige remained of this once British ship. This is the same Cambridge which was brought on speculation to China, by Mr. (now Sir C.) Douglas, was sold by him to an American, and immediately transferred, with her guns, &c., to the Chinese. After spiking ind disabling the guns in the fort, blowing up their magazines, and carrying off" a stock of banners, we retired about seven. Thus in the short space of a few hours, all this very becru- tifully constructed, and (as far as silk banners and tents could make l'c so) beautifully decorated bat- tery was utterly annihilated, and the valiant Celes- tials had fled no one could tell whither. It has been the custom with all those with whom we have had thus to deal, to strip off* every badge of military apparel the instant we come to close quarters; and I suspect that they conceive that having yielded all, their persons are free ; at all events, they lose no opportunity to render that point secure, by their very rapid flight. By precon- certed arrangements with Captain Herbert, I am happy to say that no butchery was practised here. 1 badge close that at all that l*econ- |l am itised 1841.] DESTROY MASKED BATTERY. 157 In the morning I joined Captain Herbert, who, with Captain Elliot, and the captains of the squa- dron, proceeded in the Nemesis to examine the Salt Junk creek, and ascertain what depth we could carry up. After sighting " Howqua's Folly," and Napier Fort, where the river was observed to be staked, and junks sunk, we put her head down- wards, to return to our ships. At this moment I noticed a suspicious smoke at the near angle of the trees, but as no report followed, I could not be cer- tain that it was a battery. On our return, our ships were passed through the raft at the First Bar, and anchored in Whampoa reach. On the following day it was determined that the Sulphur should move up the creek, and Captain Elliot having volunteered his assistance, we moved on without any accident, until we neared the suspected point, where I noticed the smoke yesterday. In my own mind, I was satisfied that we were to have amusement, and having with me a division of the Wellesley's boats, they were ordered " ;d close, load, and prepare for action." Our men were also at quarters, and red hot shot were in readiness for the bow guns. We were not too soon. They instantly opened on us from a very well masked battery of thirty-five guns. The boats having been tmrned, required no further orders ; and leaving Captain Elliot in charge, I jumped into my gig to recal them, (or " prevent their doing too much,") in compliance with Captain K i fii li; Hi 158 IIOWQUAS FOLLY. [I.S4I Elliot's wish, Tlioy were, however, too (|uiek for me. The enemy had fled, and our party (rather foolishly) had pursued them into the toM'u, wliere they mioht have heen cut olf. In what direction to pursue them was a difficult problem ; I therefore took means to secure their retreat, or aid tlieni if refpiisite, and destroyed the guns and nninitions of war. In this alRiir, we had the misfortune to lose one of the VVellesley's men, wlio was shot throuo^li the lungs whilst sounding. Having returned to the Sulphur, she was anchored in advance within two miles of How(|ua's Folly, Napier's Fort being- about one mile and a half beyond. The Herald, Alligator, and Modeste, entered the reach in the evenmg'. ! ' In commander Bingham's account, p. 159, he here makes not only a great mistake, l)ut certaiidy appears to imply a want of discipline in Lieut. Symons. The Sulphur onhj, and not towed, accompanied by the boats of the Wellesley, as I have before stated, performed this service. Lieut. Symons could not order when a superior was commanding. " Howqua's Folly " is a quadrangular fort, con- structed of granite, and mounting twenty-eight guns on its four faces. It was built at the cost of Howqua, the Hong merchant, eitlier by a squeeze, or for some punishment. " Napier's Fort" is of similar construction, ]daced on the tongue of an island, com- manding two passages, and intended to prevent i i COll- 1st of Icozo, iiilar ICOlll- I'VtMlt >>«^, «»i M /A %\ \ * -^ -% \- 1841.] ARUIVAL OF SIR HUOII fiOUCJIl. i")y jiny more Napiers procceiling, ri d nr?ms; to Canton. Drury's Folly is a lofty pa<}fO(la, bnt not in a con- spicuous position, and is intended to point out the failings of the individual of that name. On the 8rd of March the commodore joined us in the Madagascar, and having already examined the river, within musket shot of HoAvqua's Folly, I got permission to move the Sulphur, " but not to risk action for the ])resent," a flag of truce having been sent by the American consul. On anchoring within gra])e range, ))ut entirely protected by the bank, the enemy fired the gun nearest to us, and I suspect fled. Major-General Sir Hugh Gough had arrived in the Cruizer, and taken command of tlie troops. I had now the pleasure of being introduced to him. As the Quangchowfoo, or mayor of Canton, was ex- pected with a flag of truce, I was despatched to receive him, and conduct him to the Commodore. In my passage up the river, I took a glance at Howqua's Folly, but found it apparently deserted. The Sulphur was moved nearer to the battery, and hoisted the Commodore's pendant, and flag of truce. The Quangchowfoo passed without my noticing him, mistaking the boat which conveyed him for that of the American, who was in her. As I considered Howqua's Folly virtually aban- doned, I obtained the commodore's leave to take possession, and on reaching the gate, found some m ^ i! )!l ^■4' t A* *r. I ' •fi, ■>'■;■ i - • y . . s .' ,*^ "■'•/ -^ t^'. '• •:■* ■J ■■f': ■■' n}s ^; -.'',%" "Xi^-- .'.■"' ^.I'l.. ' Vj.-\ ■ m 1 ■ •wm \ p ' ' -^ i .5:ft#i* 4 ■'■' K^ll^^^b:: zr^mmSKfMM. ■^ j '■ ■ >^ ^^^St '^' jAH P^^^bh^^9^9B«! i - ■ ' . * ■ ;t; 1 ■^ii» fe* ■■■ ' ■■■ .', - : ^«|k| ' ^^ > ■. ■ ^^M ^^^ '^' ■..*;%■< ■•^' '•*> tBB'i^BmB 1 l!^4l, 'I'll (|(">r(\ n 1 1 . r. ! 1 1 ' I'-iltiliii'- • |!i . -.^ •'••1> III'' !(.!/ m! 1 M''(> C:\'i I'-i I ' ;ak" i,(--;.'-vii \ i-n •' I'" ii: lit I II I Itiiir, ; I M ■ hut I ■it ■■•,•! ■|( I • . » 1 ' ! ' 1 1 ' I I ! i < : \i '^.'^'l-.'i. .Ill . i I • (' M;; (Ml •' ' I'll t I , - \ \vi!!j !!.'■' •■•..iir,U;ilu!('J , ! -> I • : ' I •torr -i.nv .•i' rhosi' ;n;MtM'. thrir "^i'lj.^, Mnd \v.hh \">' '! ■ " I ll I>li i'l-, )>-,;iI: ^'. ( ;l l./'-lM S*" f I ClM' (« )i' . Ill' > i;,.- • iTi !i'(i| >'>.':i'; '^■., r 1 M ! , ■ S- ■«-l Hi'' '■Mil'!. < \V;t V^ IM.lilx!.' llt;-i; ■ '. . lir \ r.l. t ; 'k M .->' ■z- 'i^ «fr 1841.] N AIM Kits lOKT. 101 ^ ■V''^: I' ThoHO liiots lu'iii;,'' t'oinminiicutcd to \\\i\ coiiinio- (loro, ;it clevon i\\o iioxt day, wIumi the Ha<^ of truce came down, I was directed to take possession, The enemy had corunenced a very stroni*' mud Imttery on tlie ri<(ht l)ank, for thirty-ei<;ht ^uns ; ^ut I had been in its rear, and ascertained it to he luirndess. On the left, in the opposite cliaiuud, a stronf^ battery of forty guns covered Na|)ier's Fort, and a wide and deep ditch at the floating l)ridge, flanked l)ya five-gun battery, prevented access ))y land. Of this latter we were not then aware. By boat signal, (all the captains being on board the Nemesis with the commodore,) the Sulphur was in motion before any of those anxious t(» lead could get to their ships, and was well supported by the Wellesley and Druid's l)oats, as well as her own. The shij) was steered direct for the battery, the first lieu- tenant having orders to drop his anchor, so as to bring her stern to the raft, and port broadside to the gate within pistol shot ; but not to fire without orders. We were in our boats, towed alongside. Our respective terms of treaty were religiously ob- served. The enemy fired away all his rammers, &c., wide of us, and fled by one gate as I entered at the other. Two huge guns were pointed out of the arch- ways of the gates ; their calibre about twenty-four pounders, but much heavier than our ten-inch guns. These I had ordered to be embarked, but when they commenced drawing the charges, they found that each contained acrm shot and sLv cartridges, VOL. II. M ( !l h I! ^ l(i2 UKTIKN TO WIIAMI'OA. [IHII. iiistM'tcd ultcniiitrly — I suppose cartritlii^c first, Imt tlio contrary certainly wotiid not nm» prise \\u\ The whole char;»(', as tiieir cartri(l;;"es uw not less than one loot in lenjufth, cani(> prettv near tlu^ nnizzle. Tlu» ;i;uns were too cunihrous to niov(» (piired, to pass. The division inti'nded to take the fortv-f»nn ))at- tery were l»roni>ht to a stand still I)y the dit<*h, but we jmslied on and planted otir colours. But what a mortification ! not a ;>un or enemy remained ; cnery- thin;>' had been withdrawn durinu|itiiin llcrlxTt, on Itourtl tlio ('allio|ic, ut dinner. Tlio Snlphur now pnu-eeded np tlie Manio I'^ort reacli, Imt nnfortunatcdy ^jfroninled, and rctnrncd. ( )n tlie I3tli slic a^ain moved n|>, bnt ^^roinidin^ a^min, was preventivl liavin;j;' lier shot at tiie battery before it was eaptnred. I jnst rcaclKwl in time, in my {r\>x, to b(^ iainu'hed over tlic rafts, and tal\(' possession of a very eomplc^te '\/'(isf hniit,'" the erew of wiiieh ran lier ashore and Hed. Her (Mnnmander was a man- darin witii a white bntton, wliieii latter I captiM'iMJ, to^'etiier witii snndry articdes for the toih't, wliieii prove tiiat mandarin (/(U/t/ics (;.\ist. I)nrin;jf the short interval of tniee, we moved down to Sam- panchow, to obtain rates for onr chrononniters, re- tnrnin^^ to Wliampoa on tlie I Itli. As some |)anse to(dv place before fmtiier oj)era- tions, J Inisied myself with the examination of jin nid'requented eiiannel to tiie sonthward of Dane's and Freiieh Islands; indeed, one never attemi)ted by sln[)s on any ])revious occasion. Ha.ln^ ascer- tained that a corvette could be carried up to a posi- tion where the commerce of tlie enemy mi^ht be completely obstructed, I had permission to move the Hyacinth (18) thither. On the 1 Otli March, we started, and placed her in tlie southern end of the Fatee creek, and on the T7th at noon, returned to the Modeste, where I found Captain Herbert. The commodore was ex- pected on the morrow. The next grand attack was to be commenced on M 2 I It . M! N M )• . i i Ji- ll m I 1G4 FATEE CREEK. [1841. the Crow's-nest Fort, where a floating bridge again obstructed the river. A five-gun battery above, flanked it, and two war junks were moored beyond. The enemy showed about twenty fast boats, pulling about fifty to sixty oars each, armed with one or two brass guns, and eight gingals, carrying four- ounce balls. My mind was fully bent on cap- turing these gentry. Through the Fatee creek I hoped to catch them in rear, whilst they were showing off before the shipping, (with a bridge be" tween them.) The force to complete the service before mentioned, was the ]\Iodeste, Starling, Alge- rine, Hebe, Louisa, Nemesis and Madagascar steamers, and the boats of the squadron generally. The Commodore, and Captain Elliot, accompanied by Captain Herbert and myself, proceeded in Nemesis to examine Fatee Creek from the position of the Hya- cinth. It was found impossible to push the Hyacinth higher, nor was there room for the Nemesis. It was, therefore, decided that I should take the command of a division of boats through this creek. This division, consisting of the boats belonging to the Sul- phur, Hyacinth, Calliope, Cruizer, and Pylades, and supported by my worthy friend Captain Warren, moved forwards about eleven. Attaching our tow ropes to one of the large pas- sage boats, we compelled her to tow us a considerable distance, so as to avoid being noticed by the Chinese. At the point where the creek turned off to Fatshan, there was scarf*oly room for our oars, and here a three- 1841.] ATTACK CANTON. 1G5 pas- jrable kinese. [tslian, Itlirce- gun battery had been prepared for its defence, but we found it deserted, and the guns withdrawn. Having cast off from the junk, we had scarcely entered the narrow pass, when we descried a boat mak- ing ott*. It was fortunate for our party, as liis range of sM'eeps required as much room as ours ; and his ad- vance cleared the way for us in full cry after him. How ho contrived to pass, or whether the vessels, were thrust out purposely, I know not, but fre- quently we had not room for our oars ; av.Ci for this reason he distanced on us. At length the Broadway near the city opened, with Canton ahead. The action had commenced below, the vessels had passed the bridge, and the " fast boats" were flying in all directions. Warren and myself had entirely distanced our divisions ; one huge fellow we chased for a long time within pistol shot, yet he gained on us, and we were reluctantly compelled to relinquish him, to make sure of the othei"s, now well within our grasp. The reports of the carronades of our boats soon told where they were, and having rejoined, the lighter boats were left in charge of the captured fast boats, and we then moved forward. The crowd of vessels falling constantly in our way, as well as myriads of sampans, &c., greatly obstructed our progress, and as we nearcd Canton, our vessels, )tot aware of our manoeuvre, and mistaking us for the enemy, were dropj)ing their shot freely amongst us. As we sighted the Shameen Fort, it opened on *, ! 1G6 HOIST COLOURS AT FACTORY. [1841. the steamers advancing. We were then completely under cover of the houses, and landed, expecting to drive them out by musketry ; but found a deep and wide ;tong Ishinds, the survey from that point up- wards being entrusted to Lieutenant Kellett, of tlio Starling, until we should meet again. We moved uj) in the Sul])hur to Macao Fort passage, when I proceeded by boat to call on Cai)tain Herbert at Can- ton Factory, where our officers still maintained guard. Nevertheless, the river cvtnrtinuft (dues I can no longer call them) were duly paid to preserve peace. I found every one extremely averse to my pro- ceedings, and I fully believe that if I had not taken the precaution to obtain special permission ui)on every tittle of my intentions, from Captain Elliot, (through Sir Fleming, and officially forwarded to me for my guide,) I should have lost a golden harvest. To prevent discussion, I took short leave, commenced operations, and before sunset was out of sight in the other arm, leading to Fatee Creek. 33y this course I became prepared for further 'i' I 14HI.J MKRT BOAT CONTAININ(J LADIKS. 17."> Iher oj)orati()us sit Ciuitoii. A new sooiio wjih now opcn- inif to us, iind wo comineneed exploring what wsis assed them a^min in the Fatshan Chaimel, but they took one of the southern crei!ks, j)robably Icad- in<( into the JJroadway. At the end of our second day's laboiu', our two ad- vanced l)oats o(»t si^ifht of the city of Fatslian, esti- mated at two and a half miles distant, and subtend- ing* an an^le <»f forty-six degrees. Unfortunately, this discovery was not made known until my re- turn, which rendered further examination at that ])eriod impossible, the period for the completion ol" equally or more important portions of the river being now too short. The Sulphur therefore moved downwards on the 1st of May, and on the Gth reached Tiger Island. Two extensive creeks, apparently communicating, behind the Anunghoy range, with Chuenpee, were now to be examined. On the Gth, we passed in be- hind S.iwshce Hill, and returned by a creek about two miles below it. On the 7th, w . passed into the Anunghoy Creek channel, communicating also with that of yesterday, and came out at Junk Creek, where the war junks were destroyed on the capture of Chuenpee. liy these examinations, we determined that a flotil- la, drawing from ten to twelve feet water, could have proceeded to Canton by the back channels, entirely IMII.] (IIWNF.LS nEIIIN'D ANI'XdllOV 1 t i '8' wore lie- bout into also [cek, Iture )til- liave Irely Jivoldin^r tlio h.itfciifs of (lie Horca TI«7riH, as well as that of Ti^nM- island. ndiiiul Anun^hoy two very larifo towns ixvv. J^ituatcd, and wo woit; infonnod that they have, about thrco miles inland, a walled barraclx, capable of ao- eoinmodatinpf six thousand nu'ii. It is a species of prison for pirates, and those under political surveil- lance. It is said that the garrison of the Jio<^uo was sent there for punishment, as w(»ll as to prevent their connnunicatinn^ th/'ir non-hclUffrrcnt principles to the valiant " rebel exterminators" about Canton. On my former visit with one of the flags of truce, sent to Anunghoy Fort, I noticed many poor mise- rable creatures, who certainly were not fit to work the guns ; and I was informed that they had impress- ed the artisans of Canton to ccmiplete their force. Two of the officers landed near the town to erect marks, and although the crowd pressed about them, they were civilly treated. Rain and bad weather put an end to our operations. I therefore returned to the Sulphur, and moved on to Macao, to rate our chronometers, rejoining our senior officer at Hong-kong, on the night of the 1 0th. Sir Le Fleming Senhouse was delighted at our success, little dreaming how soon the results of these labcJurs would be practically tested, and how much to his gratification. Preparations were immediately made to move on the 12th for Amoy and the north, the force to consist of H.M.S. Blenheim, Blonde, Sulphur, Hyacinth, Nim- fj V il n •■ VOL. II. N 178 RESUME WARLIKE PREPARATIONS. [1841. If f' ii rod, Cruizer, Starling, Atalanta, and transports con- taining our active and worthy general and the troops. Everything went on swimmingly; we were anxious to throw off the ennui resulting from late inaction; but an ominous delay still hung over all. The mer- chants, who were well aware that hostilities must shortly be resumed at Canton, offered bets that Cap- tain Elliot would not go to Amoy, and that the squadron would not quit Canton river. On the 14th the bubble burst, and another turn was given to affairs : the Amoy expedition was ad- journed, and orders issued to move again on Canton. On the 18th the Sulphur moved up, and Sir Fleming having consented to place the Blenheim under my charge, I promised to put him, as well as the Blonde and transports, in safe berths in sight of Canton. It was therefore necessary to be in advance and mark the dangers by Chinese boats, if they could be secured, otherwise the boats of the squadron would be brought in aid. The native pilots pursue this method, as the channel for heavy ships is rather serpentine. Before advancing our force, it may be as well to state the grounds of the present quarrel. In the former armistice it was fully understood that any attempts to re-arm the captured forts wculd be con- sidered as an infraction of the truce. It was clearly evident to every rational mind, that this had long been done, and moreover, that, in addition to the supplies of guns and troops in vast quantity, formidable ^f^T'Wtr^m^ \ 1841.] CAUSES OF QUARREL. 179 i! ^ell to Ln tlie it any \e con- ilearly long I to the lidable batteries were erecting at all points, Jire-rqfts were in preparation, and every act indicated immediate war. Even the Chinese themselves saw that it could no longer be concealed, and when they saw the foi'cign merchants withdrawing their property, fear- ful that they would escape their grasp, the following edict was pasted up on the factories, as well as copies furnished to the merchants. "Yu, the acting prefect of Canton, issues this edict for public information, in order to calm the feeling of the merchants, and to tranquillize com- mercial business. It appears that the detachments of troops for Canton have all successively arrived ; the laws for the army, however, are very strict, and without being commissioned, soldiers can never move about to create disturbance. Still it is feared that, as the military hosts are gathered in clouds, the mer- chants of all nations here engaged in commerce, hearing thereof, will tremble with alarm, not know- ing where things will end. Some, frightened out of their wits, may abandon their goods and secretly go away ; and others may not know whether to expect quiet or danger, while all cherish their fearful appre- hensions. Those foreign merchants who are re- spectfiilly obedient, are viewed noways different from the children of the Celestial Dynasty ; and the ir":)erial commissioner, and general pacificator of the rebels, and the high ministers and joir^ commis- sioners, with their excellencies the governor and lieutenant-governor, managing all things with due N 2 ii \ i ^ ! i i' 1 ' 1 1 : \ 1 ) ;. i ' i ,i ' ' ' I , s If I' I I :' , ! > i fl 180 EDICTS. [1841, consideration, assuredly will not involve the good and the upright in trouble. These merchants, being respectfully obedient, or.ght to be protected from all injury, and the goods which they have brought with them ought also to be preserved in safety. It is, therefore, right to issue this edict for full infor- mation. And, accordingly, this is published for the assurance of the merchants of every country trading at Canton : to you who have always been respect- fully obedient, and long enjoyed our commerce, the high officers of the celestial dynasty, in fulfilling the gracious pleasure of his imperial majesty towards foreigners, will give fiill protection to the utmost of their strength. Should native robbers and bandits come out to plunder or molest you, they shall be punished with increased severity; and any goods carried off shall be restored, so that the smallest loss shall not be sustained. And you, the said foreign merchants, ought also on your part to remain quiet in your lawful pursuits, continuing your trade as usual, without alarm or suspicion : but joining with the disturbed affairs will give occasion for sub- sequent repentance. A special edict." Here was duplicity ! Here stand forth the cha- racters of the high officers, the ^lite of the honoura- ble men of China, ministers and generals, fully bent on entrapping every foreigner on whom they could lay their hands. Captain Elliot forthwith issued the following circular : "In the present situation of circumstances, her 1841.] HOSTILITIES COMMENCED. 181 her Britannic Majesty's plenipotentiary feels it his duty to recommend that the British and other foreigners now remaining in the factories should retire from Canton before sunset. (Signed) '' C. Elliot, H.B.M. Plenipotentiary. "British Factory, 2\st May, 1841." This was followed by fire-rafts, sent down on the Alligator oif the remains of Howqua's fort ; and, as customary, a general discharge of cannon, making much noise, but without injury, at least to tlie British. The T^ouisa tender and Aurora private schooner, anchored off the factories, escaped from guns as well as fire-rafts, by the exertions of the advanced squadron. On the morning of the 22nd, a boat belonging to the Morrison, (American ship,) with four seamen, mate, and three passengers, quitted with " a chop," but were fired on, brought to, and carried into the city : all were wounded, and one was said to have been killed. In the morning the Modeste, Pylades, and Algerine, accompanied by the Nemesis steamer, punished Sha- meen fort, after which t^e boats of the squadron, assisted by the Nemesis, moved up the creek towards Neishang, and committed sad havoc amongst their junks, v>^hich were evidently laden with guns for the new fortifications, some weighing four or five tons. Thirty-nine junks, smacks, and fire-boats were burnt. The Chinese then attacked the factories, particu- U' i 182 BLENHEIM ANCHORED. [1H4] Jarly those on the Britisli side of Hog Lane, making a perfect wreck of the beautiful pier-glasses, chapel, &c. On the 20th, the Blenheim reached Tiger Island. On the following morning she moved to the second bar, and anchored ; when, having j)laced the boats of the Sulphur, Hlenheim, and Starling, in their positions, she weighed, and I took her in tow with the Atalanta steamer. The day was beautiful, and everything fiivoured us. Passing the first bar by the New or " Victoria Channel," T placed the Blenheim in a free swinging berth, five miles above the first bar, in sight of the advanced squadron and the city of Canton, and nine miles direct from the factory. I could have carried her three miles higher, where several of the deep transports were afterwards placed ; but although a safe berth could have been found, it was important to carry the transports there, and therefore not risk, on a fiilling tide, choking the channel, should she toucli. I then brought up the Blonde, and afterwards the heavy trans] )orts, includ- ing the Marion, with Sir Hugh Gougli, and Head- Quarters. The remainder were left to the guidance of the officers of the Sulphur, and Mr. lirown, master of the Calliope. This part of my duty being completed, and some doubts arising relative to the actual ])ointH of terra finnn on which tlie land force could act against Canton, I immediately requested " to be allowed to put the matter beyond doubt by a de- cided reconnoissauce." ,?• 1841.] KX AMINE NEISHANO CREEK. 183 le 10 This ])cin^ acctMlcd to, and tlic Suli)]iur hav- inj? already moved up to tho squadron off Canton, orders were issued for each of the adv.anced squadron to furnish an .irined boat, whicli, with tho launch of the Druid, under the command of my staunch sup- porter. Lieutenant Goldsmith, (first of that ship,) and the boat force of the Sulphur and Starling, advanced on this duty about nine a. m., the morning following. As my attention would in all probability be en- tirely bent on the reconnoissance, and I might even be detached for a time, the whole division was placed under the command of Lieutenant Goldsmith, acting und(;r me. The first part of my instructions di- rected me to collect sufficient tea-boats, or other large boats, for the conveyance of two thousand men, should I fall in with them. I therefore pulled up close on the Fatee side, and turned ten, capable of holding one hundred and twenty each, into the stream, calculating that with the ebb-tide they would soon drop down on our squadron ; a cutter, one of our division, was also detached to watch them, and returned as we reached the creek, where the Nemesis and boats had yesterday had their amusement. The junks were still smoking, and amidships in each we noticed at low water the huge guns intended for the use of the exterminating army. We little dreamed of anything remaining for us to do, although I had my suspicions. On reaching Neishang, where the Nemesis termi- nated her work yesterday, we noticed two flotillas of 184 CAPTURE OF FAST BOATS. [1841. h M fuHt boats, brave as usual ; their numbers probably, together, about forty. As I had begun to learn that tliesc gentry would give us a heavy tug at chasing, 1 determined to use stratagem. Just opposite to Neishang the stream forks ; one branch to the left, leading towards the west, and probably rejoining the main stream ; the other to Tsingpoo. As I noticed the flood setting on the angle, I knew that if I could get one division within the influence of the Tsingpoo stream, I could secure their capture by cutting direct for the angle. One division most assuredly kept command of that to the westward, in order to ensure escape. Our boats having come up and formed at the last burned junk at Neishang, the enemy, mistaking the reservation of our fire, assumed a more hostile attitude, and passed the rubicon. Our fire opened, and faster than my pen could state the facts, we found ourselves in possession of fifteen fast boats, five M ar junks, and several row boats, carrying from four to six gingals each, and amounting in all to twenty- eight vessels. One of the largest fast boats, rowing sixty oars and armed with two brass six-pounders in the bow, and eight gingals, was preserved as a trophy ; the remainder were burnt. Moving on, we landed at the temple of Tsingpoo, where a sand battery of five guns had been erected. The guns were thrown into the sea, and the battery reduced to a level. As my war operations had now ceased, I turned the 1841.] RECONNOISSANCE. 185 we ive bur nty- 'ing •s in )hy; poo, ted. tery the command over to Lieutenant Goldsmith, directing him to see the vessels completely destroyed. The enemy. Mho had retreated to the brow of the range which overlooked the river by eighty feet, annoyed us occasionally from their gingals, but were repaid with interest by grape from the boat's carronades. As nothing could be seen from the river, and without a distinct attack on the heights by our whole force we could not effect our object of re- connoitre, I determined on trying, in the first in- stance, how far I could effect my object from the masthead of a junk. One particularly adapted to this service lay immediately in front of where I suspected the enemy to be encamped in force. Ac- cordingly I went on board her, and luckily finding her geer rove was hoisted to her masthead, (above one hundred feet,) sextant in hand, and to my de- light, obtained a complete view of the whole country between the temple and the batteries on the heights. As I suspected, the enemy were encamped just within the verge of the hill. I have not the slightest doubt but they would have fled on our rising the hill. It had quite escaped my recollection that I had ordered all the junks to be burned ; my attention was deeply engaged elsewhere, and on my descent, I found a fierce fire raging beneath me. After adding fuel to help it, I quitted, but had not moved more than one hundred yards, when she blew uj> I ill I'i r 1. 'I 1 I ,'1 1 18G RETURN TO BLENHEIM. [1841. with a grand explosion, and sunk but remained with her masts standing, thus effectually securing this position. Off and alongside the temple, I found four and a half fathoms at low water, and by our survey downwards, became fully satisfied that the Suljjhur could, with care, be brought to support the trooj)S, and serve as a rendezvous. Our operations in this neighbourhood being com- plete, we moved out, taking with us, in addition to our fast boats, a state mandarin (house) boat, which served me well as a cabin for the next twenty-four hours. Crossing over to the creek above jf^atee, we extracted three fine boats from thence, one a salt vessel, capable of holding a whole regiment ; it was immediately named " Noah's Ark" by the sailors. These were towed down. Captain Barlow of the Nimrod had also secured several others by the divi- sion under his command, all of which were sent down to the Blenheim that evening. Aware of the anxiety of Sir Fleming to know the result of my mission, I moved on immediately, and reached the Blenheim at half past eleven that night. Sir Fleming was reported to be in bed, but was sitting in his easy chair, and when I entered, he observed, " Well, Captain Belcher, I thought I was right in sitting up for you." The report delighted him beyond measure, and his anxiety to communicate it to the General out- stepped the fear of disturbing his slumbers. A 1841.] ADVANCE TO TSINGPOO. 187 boat was immediately despatched. A bed had been prepared for me in the cabin of the Blenheim, but I preferred returning to a nap on board my mandarin boat. At dawn I rejoined Sir Fleming, and volun- teered my services to number and distribute the troops to the boats, and as it was the anniversary of her Majesty's birth, we hoped to commence action that day. I was immediately despatched to the General, who ordered Major Beecher, the Quarter-master General, to accompany me forthwith. This service being complete before ten o'clock, and exj)ecting the steamers to be shortly at my heels, towing the troops, I took my leave with carte blanche from Sir Fleming " to place the Sulphur where I wished." The corvette squadron off Canton would otherwise have been under my command, but Sir Fleming having determined to accompany the general, and placing me on his staf!', I preferred the more active appointment. My good friend Captain Warren, of the Hyacinth, therefore became senior officer oft' Canton. On reaching the Sulphur, I found the ships dressed with ensigns at the mastheads, which was shortly followed by the rolling roar of a royal salute in honour of her Majesty's birth-day. But few mi- nutes were lost there. Ordering the Sulphur to weigh, I visited Captain Warren, gave him the orders from Sir Le Fleming Senhouse to be pre- pared to take up their positions at two, and moving 11 188 SULPHUR ANCHORS AT TSINGl'OO. [1841, i : thcnco to our Plenipotentiary on board the Louina cutter, infonned liim of my intentions, &c. The civil community deemed mc mud ; several had seen the river dr?/ across, and I was set down as *' cracked," at least. The Sulphur, under all canvass, with her ensigns still displayed, soon picked me up, and to the confu- sion of the overwise, soon disappeared amongst the trees. She touched, but soon moved on, and at four p. M. was safely anchored alongside the temple of Tsingpoo. Parties Avere immediately employed to clear the temples for the accommodation of the troops. A fine fat buck, found within the walls of the temple gardens, was sentenced to death by drum-head court-martial, and turned over to the cook, as ground- work for a hot supper. I then proceeded to the heights with a party of seamen, and found the enemy had decamped, and that nothing to oppose us was near. Look-out men were then stationed at the mastheads, and preparations were made to receive the general and our naval commander-in-chief, who were observed approaching in the Nemesis, with troop-boats in tow. About sunset, the troops commenced disembark- ing from the junks or tea-boats, in order to relieve the pressure. The General, Sir Le Fleming Sen- house, and the staff, supported by a strong party, advanced to the position lately occupied by the enemy's encampment. It was too late to see anything, yet * ■!, 184?.] LAND THE TROOPS. USD ut tlic sjiiiio t;:m> it was noccHsary to have cominaiul of tilt! hoi'^lits, ill case of any extraordinary exhibi- tions of valour during the night. During the time wo remained there, the Chinese set up a few yells, and burnt a species of Roman candle, the balls of which served to show us in position. I suspect them to bo part of the stores of the fast boats; if so, they ire constructed of bamboos of two inches internal jore, and intended to point at those attempting to board ; probably expecting that a fire ball in the face might damp their ardour. In the midst of this, our attention was arrested by sounds which we mistook for the cries of a Chinaman under punishment, or in distress cer- tainly ; but they passed unnoticed, and utter dark- ness prevented our seeing many yards around us. On the morning following, it proved to have been the cries of one of the camj) followers, who had gone to a pond for water, and having been caught by the Chinese, was then undergoing decapitation. The fireworks having ceased, and quietness pre- vailing, an additional force arrived, and the General having given his orders for the night, we retired to the Sulphur, where, having done justice to the mandarin venison, the chiefs retired for the night. An alarm was sounded about midnight, ar i in a few seconds we were on shore. The exact cause was never ascertained, but I believe that it arose from a pig having made a desperate sally upon the "piled 11)() ADVANCE ON CANTON. [1841. I'M arms," ami thus created ^rcat coiifuKion. Had they seon IiIm tail, tlioy might easily liave determineil that he was not a Chinaman. Indeed, they take very great precaution not to permit such a iiandle to be dangling " on service." Sir Lo Fleming Senhousc having Joined the start', the command of the marine battalion was given to Captain Bourchier, of 11. M.S. Blonde, having under him Captain Maitland, (Wellesley,) Captain Barlow, (Nimrod,) with their lieutenants of divisions. Having made a hearty venison breakfast at the expense of the god of physic, (the lord of the manor of Tsingpoo temple,) and the remainder of the force having ounder- rockets, and two light six-pounders. 1841.] ATTA('K THE IIRKUITS. 101 |r- Tlio loft column consisted of the 1 Hth royal Irish, 2flth Ciinioroiiians, a (It'tachinent of Madras ar- tillery enpinet'rs and sajipers, with a six-poundrr, and a five-and-a-half-inch mortar. The royal ar- tillery had also their rocket-frames with nino poiHuler rockets, as well as a few musket rockets. Our progress was not raj)id, as the lines of road had to bo examined before adopted, and ^uns were but slowly advanced. About nine o'clock, we had advanced to the first joss-house within reach of what were afterwards termed the seamen's batteries, Kung-kik-tai, or " fortress of extreme protection," and hero the rockets were in excellent distance. The enemy threw the shot over our heads without injury to our party, and their grape-shot constantly dropped amongst us, 1 ut without damage, being merely spent balls. I found I had by some means distanced the Ge- neral and Sir Le Fleming, and a message from the General to the artillery, to direct the guns on a bat- tery to the left, was the first intimation that he had taken a different route. We had no guns, but about this moment Lieut. Wood, of the Sulphur, rei)orted to me that he had, by the exertions of a detachment of the Sulphur's crew, brought up one of the twelve-pounder howitzers and the nine-pounder field-piece was following. This gun was immedi- ately turned over to Captain Anstruther, of the Madras artillery, who in a few mini 'as did good 192 IJATTEUIES ON HEIGHTS CAPTURED. [1841. li service, clearing the battery above us, as ^ell as completely fulfilling the General's intentions. About this moment, I observed the General, with the 18th and 49th under Colonel Morris, as- cending the hills in front. Thinking that the enemy would, in all probability, retreat down the gorge, I determi led to make my advance to rejoin by that route, and was moving forward, when Cap- tain Elliot requested convoy, which was of course granted. We very soon found that we had not selected the best road for the safety of the plenipo- tentiary, and under a general salute of every species of arms from the whole face of Canton walls, we reached our friends at the Hill Fort, Pou-kik-tai, or " Extreme Security," without accident. This work, a large square stone battery, having embrasures on each side, and an interior turret mounting nine guns, had always been one of my principal objects in the survey of the river, and therefore became doubly interesting. It is situated on a very steep mound, overlooking the walls of Canton, and within accurate musket shot, the space between, forming a very deep natural ravine or ditch. It is also within musket shot of the " j^ive-story Pagoda." As the enemy continued to annoy us much from a three-gun battery immediately in front, I com- menced upon them with two of their own six-pounder gains, from the turret, and found them carry pretty truly with half charge of their own cartridges, — which -Vv^' 18H.] (Ai^rAfx uurRciiiKRs division'. 19; y are each about oiu^litt'en iiiclies in loiigth ! IJut as the balls from the gingals flew very thick, and Sir Le FkMiiing thounlit that our men ouglit scarcely to be riskeil for the di that ht be to one amag-e or two Chinese, the fire was discontinued. A small cohorn, under the direction of a young officer of the Madras artillery, (just arrived in time to share in the affair,) proved very ettective; his first debut on service was to throv' several shells verv beautifully ; the third blew up a larc^o magazine, in rear of our friend the three-gun battery, and foe a time reduced the annoyance from that quarter ; but during tiic niglit they rested not. At the same instant that the troops stormed their forts, the blue-jacket division, under their worthy leader Captain Bourchier, gallantly carried the two batteries assigned to them, (Fortresses of Perpetual Bliss, and Everlasting Security.) But they were less fortunate in quarters, as Ijeing nearer the lines, and quite uiq)rotected, the enemy kept up a well-directed fire upon one spot, of which they doubtless previously knew the range. The six-pounder, under the com- mand of tlie lion. Lieutenant Spenser, R. A., was sent to their assistance, and they managed to re]()ay their civilities ; not, however, before Lieutenant Fox and Mr. Kendal, mate, both of H. M. S. Nimrod, had each lost a leg, and several seainen were severely wounded. The former expired shortly after the operation of amputation above the wound. Hardly had the troops regained tlieii- wind, VOL. II. o \ 194 ATTACK ON NORTH RRN CAMP. [(H41 H (dreaming little of further operations,) when the reserve was directed to attack the entrenched camp outside of the N. E. gate. As this position was out of range from our battery, and the advance exposed to the whole of that line of city wall, it was at once perceived tliat this was to be a lesson to the Celestials how little we cared for them in the field.* The enemy had taken up numerous scattered po- sitions, with gingals placed in the paddy fields, from which they could, almost unseen, or, as bad, unnoticed, being in pairs only, completely gall the advancing party. Those in the camp \vere waving i. .\i banners, and inviting their opponents to ad- vance, with every imaginable gesticulation. At double quick time, forward dashed our friends the Royal Irish, and in a few moments the theatricals were ended. " Sauve qui pent !" I suppose to have been the order of the Chinese general, and most obedient they proved. I do not believe an opponent was found after the troops entered the encamp- ment. It was beautifully done, and beautifully followed up ; no confusion — no helter-skelter plundering, which we had before been disgusted with ; but the troops were formed coolly in their new barrack-yard pro tern., and parties were employed to execute the duty of destruction. The customary trophies of course were not left behind, and shortly, in the same * It was generally remarked by the Chinese, that if they once got us on terra firmUy the chances of war would be reversed. ' i K Va 1841.] VKSSKLS ATTACKED BY CHINESK, 195 )wed same once V f military stjl^, they quitted the demolished cjimp oii their return. All this we witnessed and enjoyed from head-quarters. On this duty, four officers and several men were severely wounded. Colonel Morris, of the 49th, commanded this service, and l)rought away the gene- ral's horse, most magnificently cajjarisoned. Why did not the general fly on his back ? Probably they make a point of leaving enough behind to rescue their carcasses. The enemy continued to worry us by their firing during the whole night, but without damage to any person ; but suddenly in the morning their fire slack- ened, and at daylight had entirely ceased. The first despatch from " the Bluefi" acquainted us with the death of Lieutenant Fox, who did not rally after amputation. At the time these operations were going on, an attack was made by a party at the beach, but was repulsed by the seamen under the command of Mr. Goss, acting master of the Sulphur, assisted by de- tachments of marines, and troops. I suspect the Chinese paid dearly for this freak. As this disposition rendered the village behind the temple too dangerous a redoubt in our rear, it was directed to be destroyed. On the morning of the 26th, it was eagerly ex- pected that we should escalade the walls of Canton ; but as it was deemed important to bring up further supplies of rockets and carcasses, as well as ammuni- o 2 I: i I .<)() rincK [ISil tiim, a jKirty was (|»atcluMl lor (liis purpose to tlio Hlcnlicim. Had it liccn p(»ssil)lc to I'on'scH' ovcnts, (loiihtlcss the liritisli colours would liavir been Hyiii^ oil tlio walls at dawn. Til tlu' al'toniooii a Ha;>' of truoo was (lis|tlay('d on t\\v cily walls, wIhmi 1 was deputed to ac('oin|»any nH^i-adier-deneral Hnrrell, with Mr. TImuu, inter- preter, to asrertaiu the cause, and their ohjt'ct ; at ti that lew e sani(» tune to ac(piaint tlieiii " tliat no intervie> would Ih' i>raute(l hut to their ('oiniuainler-in-chief, and then outside the city walls, aiul lurther, that no terms but th«)se of submission wouhl be listened to." Time AViis allbrded tluMii until iialt'-past three, at which period hostilities W(mld be resumed. At the expira- tion of that period no one came ; an HrM'ii hy tlm following iiiornoriul to what pur- post' this w'iiH <*oii verted. Mriiiorial from Yishan ami, his mllmijues to the cinjw- ntr, atncer)iinji the vtiiiiuvc of the forts and heitjht ahocr. Canton. " Tills (hiy, tli(; Nth duy of tlie fourth moon, (lird Jinie, 1H41,) we, tlie great rel)el-(jiielling (jrenoral Yishan, and tim Lieiitenant-(ienerals Lungwan and Yarigfiing, respec^tfuliy take all tlie facts n'lating to the Knglisli foreigners making an attac^k on the pro- vincial city with their ships, and that we exerted ourselves to the utmost, leading on our soldiers to defend the same, which ha]»i)ily has escaped without much daniajLi'e : and after considering tli(; vviiole state of aKiiirs, how that we iiave adojjted certain tem]>o- Y'Xvy measures, suitcul to the exigencies of the case au to that date, and eople could not without difficulty procure their daily food. Add to this, that the roar of tlie camion was unceasing, the people of the new city, (south side,) one following the example of the other, all moved into the old city, (no'th side,) and there they had a struggle. Such a state of things could fiot last long before tlie ^-upply would become exhausted, jiiid tliv ri the jtnger of the multitude would bo quite irrepressible ! We humbly think that the important jK)st of the provincial city concerns the whole province ; should it be lost by any remissnesr^ then the thieves and vagabonds of every district would avail themselves of the oppor- tunity, and rise in swarms like so many wasps ! Moreover, an organized army (though disbanded) may be reassembled ; in marching troops through the country, numerous opportunities present themselves for selecting important passes, and engaging the enen'v at advantage : but there is no principle by Mliich we may abandon the provmcial city to its fate; if the city hohl out, or if it be losi and for us to perish along with it, does not appear to be the plan best suited to the welfare of the country ! We your slaves have again reflected on all the circur.j- iv:. '^ 1841. J TO TiiK i;mi'i:u(»r. •JOl stjinccs of tlio case, and aro coiiipi'llcd to confess that we found ourselves at our wit'.s end. " Ifavinn- previously examined the site of the city, and found that tlie forts on tlie north were small and cramped in tlieir construction, an Ml'IMOUIAl, (»r YISIIAN [1S4I, tlic hriojulii'i' Ilcuno- Sjiy-sliin city wall, iind look. Hi' saw sovcnil ' l)arl)iiriun eyos,'* |»oiiitiii^ to lieaveii aii^rcat general to couu^ out, as they had souu* hardships to coniplaiu of to liiui ; upon tliis, tho counuandiug" oflicor, (or tsau<>f- pin<»,) Twau Yau<«f'uh, said to thcui in an an«>ry touc, ' Mow can the; <;ivat ^oueral of" tlu' ccK'stial dynasty como out to soe such as you if lie lias conu' here hy connuand of the <»reat enij)eror, and he knows nothing more about you than to fio-ht vithyou!' Upon this the said barbarians took oil* their hats and made a bow ; then they sent away the people who were about them, and casting* their weapons on the oround, ])erformed an obeisance toMards the city wall. Twan Yannfuh, — havinpf previously got per- mission from us your slavi'S to do so, — then asked them what <>rievauces they had to comphiin otj which caused them to resist the forces of the central land, and con(hu't themselves so madly and rebelliously on many occasions. They, in course, rej)lied that they, operations until it suits thoir purpose to renew hostilities ; and they do not admit in any slia|)e in their memorial that it was (lisi)layed on either side. The takinj;; oft' the hat, which the j!ieneral did in courtesy, as a salutation, when he was apju'ized that Yang was the person sjjeaking from the walls, has heen j)rettily twisted. •'' High characters. IS4I.] lO THE KMI'KltOU. 20'^ the; Kiiirlisli, could not carry on their tnulc, thut their ^oods were iiothciii^f consumed, that their c}i|)itiii was wasting away, and tliat their debts were lujt hein^^re- |)aidthcni: and that as h(»tii parties wen; Hrin- already lost, those within, and those witlnmt had alike no place of strength to de- })end upon, and it would be better to grant tlieir ■■'' TIk- old story a^aiiist ( 'aptiiiii Klliot. I Id 'JO I MKMOUIAL (»!•• VISIIAX [IH41. ttTiiiM, uikI tliuHHjivo tluM'ity from its pcrilouMMitimtioii, Riul r(>;inii)mt(> tin; drooping Npirif. of its iiiliahitaiits, rnflicr tlmii cnntiiiiic u stru;f|iiir(iiz- irifis itself, at every important pass we shall bloeic nj) the course «)f the river with jiiles of stones, and there erect forts anri placci ^nins : jind thns, havin<»' secured the door of entrance, we shall liavt^ ampler means to oppose their |)ro^ress, and maintain our defences. And Hnally, having thus our gripe on their thrapple, should they ever dare again to give rein to their outrageous conduct, we can in a moment stoj) their commerce : this, then, is a mode of governing them which is always in our hands. These facts relating to the late attack on this city, and the temporary exj)edient which we have adopted in the exigencies of the case, we now respectfully unite with the other memorials which we have sent up successively, and hnnd)ly hope that a holy glance may be cast upon them, and the sacred will in course manifestcnl." In the terms agreed upon, it was fully understood that the city was spared : and that until the general question, of the demands made by our (lovernment on the Court of Pekin was fully settled, any attempt to re-arm would be considered an act of hostility, and meet with immediate punishment. Yet they have fully carried out the first part of their threat, and very shortly will prevent shipping coming above the second bar. It has now but four fathoms at high 2()G CIIANNKLS MLOCKED UP. [1841. water, and the cliaiincl can very easily be blocked, as tlie v.ater has free escape westerly by the base of the second bar pagoda. SUPPLEMENTARY MEMORIAL TO THE PRECEDING. " Further, your slaves, Yishan, Lungwan, and Yanfrfang, received your sacred Majesty's special connnands to lead a body of troops to Canton, to attack and exterminate the English rebels : and your slaves Ahtsingal, (the Tartar general of the garrison,) Ke Kung, (the viceroy,) Eleang, (the lieutenaii*^^-g<)vornor,) and Yusoy, (the too-tung or Tartar lieutcniant-general,) had alike with us a share of the responsibility of holding out the pro- vincial city; there was not a day tliat we did not consider how we might massacre utterly this hateful brood, therehy mamfestinff the majeshi of heaven^ (i. e. China,) and {jladdeninff the hearts of men. How then should we dare to act (a])])arently) in opposition to such sentiments, and bring forward plans for tem- ])orary expedients ? Alas ! this arose wholly from the necessity of our position ; we could not possibly help it. And we cannot do otherwise than lay before the holy lord the feelings of bitterness that now swell our bosoms. " There are eight serious difficulties in the way of defending the city of Canton from attack, which your slave Yangfang, on a previous occasion, laid before your Majesty in a sec ot memorial ; and when we, vour slaves Yihshan and Lungwan, arrived I 'f . ' ii; il 1H41.] MKMOUIAl. OF YISIIAN TO 1 flK EMPKKOH. 2(>7 afterwanls in Kwanfj^hinp^, wo found that on the rio^ht side and on the left, the throats of our com- munications were ah-eady in the liands of the enemy. " On g«»ing uj) the stream of time, we find tliat Canton has carried on commercial intercourse with all foreio-n countries for about two hundred years. The natives of Canton most thorouohly ki ow the dispositions of the foreio-ners and their likings ; the people who dwell on the coast, such as tlie fisher- men, and the boat people, those ivho constantly come and go with the tide througli o; r military stations, are all in league with them, and understand their language ; these are greedy after o^ain and fond of strife. Love of country (of the ^laLale Solum) hangs loosely about them ; therefore it is that the foreigners do not grudge expense to get them into their employment, and consequently their hearts are turned against their masters, while they are dead to us ; they ol)ey their foreign masters in all things, they convey the most secret intelligence, and there is nothijig, in sliort, tliat they may not be induced to do ! Althoujfh we have alreadv cauulit several, and immediately executed them, yet the traces of others being obliterated in a great com- mercial vortex like this, there is really no wav of distinguishing tliem. A still worse fe.'iture is, that there are those who falsely make soldiers' dresse-^, and imitate the badges, and enter our ranks as if they were going to battle. These perhaps run awav at the first onset, (to s])read a panic among our II ; •>: > •JOS MKMORIAL OF VISIIAN [1841, i: t nuMi,) or tlicv uttjick and wound our oflicors and soldiers! Tlicir villanics aro quite innumerable; so nuieli so, that many of them are positive spies in our very canii) ! In this late affair we secretly cauiilit several, and after deeapitatiujLj them, we ex|)osed their heads to the peojjle by way of warning. "On a previous occasion, your majesty's slave I'^leang, durin<>' the second moon, (i. e. after the fail of the liogue,) had jiroclamations cut out and printed, in which lie assured them, that what was past an«l <><)iio, would be pardoned, and j)romised them wealth and honours if they would reform anon they moved forward to a rioing ground in the ler;- tre of the valley, on reaching which Majo 'er her fell, and expired, from an attack of apoplexy. A detachment of the 26th, which I joined with my boats' crew, advanced on, and set fire to their advanced post, consisting of two houses in the flat of the paddy fields. It had evidently been occupied as a barrack, as it contained numerous stools and tables. On searching, I could find nothing but two immense coffins, one at each end of the larger house, in cells apparently constructed for them. They were four times the usual size of Chinese coffins, which are generally three feet square. The troops moved off, leaving us to set fire to these houses, which was done effectually ; and just at the moment of reaching clie general, two heavy oxplosioni!; followed. f, I ; h It Miii r'l M 'V I I m y ^i I ! hi 21 G TIIK LOST COMl'ANY. [1H41. Tlieso coffins, I am Matisfied, contained gunpowder, as the flames wore too fierce in ail otlier parts of tho houses for it to ' nvt! eHcujx'd an earlier explosion. The weather, which had been for some time threatening, terminated in heavy rain, quite a deluge. About this time, Cai)tain Knowles, R. A., dropj)ed several rockets very prettily amongst the thickest j)art of a line of the enemy advancing, and these were followed up by the 2Gth Cameronians on the left, who pursued them from hill to hill until they reached their village. Here their powder bec.imc damp, and their fire-arms were of little use ; they used their bayonets, however, to some purpose, although oj)i)osed to the eighteen feet spears of the enemy. One seijeant was shot, and several of the detachment wounded. A spirited young fellow, belonging to one of the opium vessels, (Mr. Georges,) behaved well in this affair, bringing off* the Serjeant's arms and uniform, to prevent their falling into the hands of the Chi- nese. The 37th, on the right, chased the enemy too far, and having separated, lost one company. This was not made known until reaching head- quarters, when a detachment of marines, with dry percussion arms, were sent to discover them. At this time the floods had obliterated the paths, and we could barely find our way by daylight. Yet the jolly Royal Marines were successful, and found their friends in s(|uare, in the middle of a paddy field, pecked at by the Chinese j^pears, and nearly overpowered by 1841.] (MIINE8K DOUIiLE-DKALlNtiS. 217 iiuinborH. It is Huperfluous to toll tlu» talo ; it may reiulily be guessed. Tlicy brought their frieiids home, and " spoiled entirely many cclestiaJH." 80 well did the Chinese understand the use of the firelock, that one of them snatched one from a soldier, wiped the pan and fresh primed it, and ap- plyinf? his own match, shot the officer (Berkeley) through the arm. This act of the marines deserved especial notice. It exhibited more coolness, courage, and judgment, than any advance by day against any odds. The general, accompanied by Captain Elliot, met the Chinese rebel-quelling General Yang, and the Quang-chow-foo, in the hollow between the walls and the quarters, and had a long conversation re- specting the withdrawal of the troops, &c. Hardly had they quitted before the Chinese again advanced in the valley, in number about thirteen thousand. As it was useless to trifle longer, and we would be infinitely more secure within the walls of Canton, the general ap- l)rized the Chinese authorities that if any further display took place, he should consider the truce broken, and he must adopt measures for taking pos- session of the city. This alarmed them considerably, and special officers were instantly sent to the tur- bulent peasantry, to order them to retire. Their obedience appeared for some time doubtful ; the nine-i)ounder was ordered into position, and rockets prepared, to give them a warning dose ; but they prudently retired. One turbulent leader was dis- I (t I fill i f 218 ILLNESS. [1841. |M)seok to tiie result ! Five millions having been embarked, and security obtained for the remainder, tho force was ordered for embarkation on tho morrow, tho Chinese pro- viding the necessary coolies for the conveyance of the heavy stores. I had been sutterin^ some days from an injury on my le^^ and tho wetting of tho 30th had increased my illness, so as to require bearers to convey me down. It was material that I should bo at the beach for many urgent reasons, but particularly to give tho list of the boats in their order for embarkation, my former coadjutor. Major Beccher, having died, and Cajjtain Bourchier being in command of his division. On reaching the Sulphur, I met Sir Le Fleming^ who directed mo to remain quiet until his return. This was about four o'clock, when I was considerably worse. He was very anxious that I should get down to pilot the Blenheim out ; and sent Nemesis to tow me. As I was too unwell, I despatched Lieutenant Kellett to perform this duty. The troops were duly embarked, and Sulphur moved down. I was too ill to keep the deck, and without b.»^r pilot she was several times grounded. At length we reached tho Blenheim, off Tiger Island, on the 8th. I was in my cot, frequently delirious, and Sir Le Fleming too ill to call upon me. Alas ! we never met again ! By his late clerk he sent me a confidential order to refit immediately f i IH41.] DF^ATH OF SIR LE F. HENIIOUSK. 219 for Ainoy; and on tlie lOtli T touiul inyHclf at ITonp- koii;^. On tlio niorning of tho 13th I was sufficiently well to enjoy the view from my cot, and had my j)ort removed, to watch tho IJlenheim como to an- chor. I had scrawled a few words to Sir Le Flem- ing, and just entrusted tliem to my purser (his hite clerk) to deliver. As she anchored, I perceived sl;j^nals flying, and his ensign dropped. I had been previously apprized that he was very ill, and tho pain- ful truth at once became apparent. Shortly afterwards my kind friend Captain Bour- chior called on me, and related to mo tho melan- choly details, and it was gratifying to mo to loam that lie maintained, to the last moment, that devo- tion to his profession for whicli I had so much ad- mired him. This was tho severest loss wo had hitherto sus- tained. Had Sir Fleming lived, I am confident that the losses of men, officers, and wear of squadron, would have been much lessened, and our next de- spatches would have boon dated from Amoy or Ningpo. His last words at parting with mo on the 1st Juno were, " Lose no time in getting down and refitting. I shall send you and Starling to remain at Amoy with one of the sloops. Wo shall shortly be with you." » It wa^ the wish of Sir Le Fleming Senhouse to be interred at Macao, and lie was accordingly con- veyed thither in the Nemesis, and buried with full V fl 1 220 SICKNESS AMONG THE TROOPS. [1841. military horiOiii-s, in the presence of all the captains and offices oi the squadron who could attend. A handsome monument has been raised by the officers of the combined forces, in testimony of their respect and admiration. Our refit proceeded but slowly ; the sick list in- creased rapidly and in a very short jieriod we had no less than fiity-two incapable of performing duty. The squadron were now so much reduced by sick- ness, that all idea of moving was at an end ; and the daily interment of trooj)8 and seamen was any- thing but cheering to us poor invalids. Oh the 18th, the commodore returned to M.icao in the Queen steamer, and having l)een appointed joint })lenipotentiary with Captain Elliot, this was officially promulgated on the 22nd. Various rumours of movements to the north were ahoat, and doubtless any active service in a cooler climate would have lessened the mortality. I am confident, therefore, that cruizing would have checked the sickness. It is well known that in cases of cholera occurring in Vessels going before the wind, it has been checked by hauling to the wind, and simi- lar cases of yellow fever have l)een noticed. It is pi()bal)le that the stagnant calms of Hong-kong ac- celerated the mortality. On the evening of the 20th, at the moment that we were engaged making preparations for the ex- pected typJioon, by getting on board a new anchor and chain cable, it was thought that we were too 1 \^ 1841.] THE TYPHOON. 221 near the Blenheim, and a party of hands from that vessel was sent to assist in removing us. The gale increased rapidly from E. S. E. to E. N. E., and about daylight I was informed that we had driven into the hawse of theCharlcs Grant, a large fourteen-hundied-ton Indiaman. Being too ill to tmst myself on deck, I could only command from the cabin. By breaking her sheer, and sudden veering, we managed to drive clear of her hawse, when a third anchor was let go, the best bower having at the same moment parted. She continued to drift towards a rocky islet known as Green Island, and by the glimpses we occasionally had of the land, we were not far from it. Our last anchor, and new cable, alone held us. At this time the gale was at its height, and the sea clearing everything before it — over all. and through the hawse-holes, compelling us to batten down. With the danger under our stern, I was asked to cut away the masts. But as I considered that tlie bow guns and foremast would lighten her suffici- ently, orders were given to throw tlie former over, and after clearing away the rigging, to watch the o\>- portunity of cutting away the stay on the roll to starboard. These orders were not attended to; every one commenced cutting where he thought best, and the result was, :hat we lost all our masts, by the foremast falling ia board, and the mainstay having been <'ut. The ship immediately felt the relief 222 DAMAGE SUSTAINED. [1841. As the gale abated, that morning, we perceived that we were too close to Green Island ledge, and that much damage had been sustained by the fleet. Some of the merchantmen were totally lost, transports, &c., stranded, and several in the same plight as ourselves. The Royalist, our newly pur- chased barque, (of war,) had lost all her masts, and the Starling M'as missing. About eight, I perceived, through my cabin win- dows, signals of distress on the island of Wanchow, and sent a boat to the Cruizer, to request their assist- ance, our working boats having been put hors de combat. About noon, the Atalanta and Nemesis were despatched to look after missing vessels and bring off their crews. Our anxiety became very great for our consort, the Starling, and every eye was strained during the day to discover her. Seve- ral times fancy had deceived us so far that we had made out her wreck, tents, &c., on the beach. At length a schooner was seen coming through the Cai)-sing-moon, and, to our great relief, the Starling showed her number. On Kellett rejoining, I found that she had parted, run through the Cap-sing-moon, made her guns fast to the cable, and rode it out under the lee of the high land. Hardly had our fears been relieved upon this point, when we noticed an unusual movement amongst the steamers and corvettes, &c., and soon learnt that the Louisti, having on board the two plenipotentiaries. 1841.] QUIT IIONG-KOXf!. 223 had quitted Macao in company with the Hobo, on the night of the 20th, to return to Ilong-kong, and had not since been heard of. The IIel)e had been dis- masted and returned to Macao, and the officers came over in another vessel. A little exoi'tion, I imagined, might benefit me ; I therefore went on board the Blenheim, to Captain Herbert, to offer my services in one of the steamers, when I learned that they had been wrecked on one of the southern islands, but for a ransom of three thousand dollars had been safely landed at Macao. As removal to Macao v/ould benefit the crew, by sending them to hospital, the Atalanta was directed to take us in tow immediately, and assist us into the Tepa. We quitted Hong-kong about noon, and reached the mouth of the Tepa at eight that evening, wlicn the steamer having grounded, compelled us to anchor for the night. Here we were just in our own draught, two and a half fathoms over soft mud. Another typhoon came on, but did us no damage. We were not more than a cable length from ugly rocks astern, but I had great faith in our new anchor and cable, and had lashed two anchors together to remedy that lost ; in addition to which we had no top hamper to bring any strain on them. On the 27 th we warped to our anchorage, and I then paid my respects to the plenipotentiaries at Macao, and heard the history of their sufferings. Their treatment by the Chinese was, as usual, bar- il i: \i (I '. r I t ■..' !'.■■ ( . 1 1 « i ' » . 1 ' ' ' ■ ii ^ 224 THE PLENIPOTENTIARIES IN DISTRESS. [1841. barous in the extreme. It appears that, shortly after landing from the wreck, they were providentially recognized by a boatman belonging to Macao, who took them under his protection (?) On opening the village, the usual cry of " Fanqui ! Fanqui !" was set up, and the men rushed forth with threatening ges- tures, armed with bill-hooks. The guide, however, soon explained matters, and ciiey were allowed to move forward. At length they commenced rifling the party, and as some oposition was offered, bill- hooks were raised, and the commodore and one of his attendants were knocked down, and stripped. Resistance was vain. At length they were housed for the night, and Captain Elliot agreed to give the boatman two thousand dollars to land them at Macao. A Chinese vessel had been wrecked aljout the same time, and all the crew were destroyed, and their bodies frightfully lacerated. This raised a sus- picion that they had not met fair play. It was not without the greatest difficulty that they could be appeased, and had it not been for their friend the boatman, they would inevitably have been sacrificed, as the people frequently returned to the subject, and went through the motions of sharpening their knives, and making signs of cutting their throats. This doubtless was in aid of the demand for the other thousand dollars, which sum was eventually agreed on. Th.'y were to depart in two boats, at daylight on 10 1S41.] NARROW ESCAPE. 'i2:> tlie 23r(l, and but two in each boat ; the remainder were to be sent for on their reaching Macao. One hundred dolhirs was also demanded for each of the )oat9. Further extortionate demands were made, until at length, as they put to sea, their demands increased to two hundred. On their passage they were suddenly concealed, and a mandarin boat passing close alongside, asked several questions, and passed on. What an escape ! What a prize they lost ! Shortly after having opened Macao, they met a Portugese Lorcha, and eager to be relieved from further durance, sprung up and waved to them. Those in the Lorcha, alarmed, and mis- taking them for pirates, drew up under arms. How- ever, they soon explained matters, and were carried into the inner iiarbour, where they landed at the Bar Fort. Caj)tain Elliot wore a Manila hat, u jacket, no sliirt, a pair of striped trousers, and shoes. The commandant of the fort wished to tun > out the guard for the commodore, but this was dispensed with. They were soon in better (juarters, and bet- ter rigged, enjoying a comfortable meal. What 11 ist have been the state of poor Mrs. E., who must ve given up her husband as lost ! Strange ad ventures seldom happen singly. I > rj ng the moment of my visit to the plenipotentiai % a card was brought u[) to Ca])tain Elliot, and m- ser- vant wished to know if the }>erson could be received . This was no other than a brother of Captain IClliot's, VOL. n. u 1 ,'i!!f ! i' 220 CniNRSE AltTISANS. [1841. who, beiiif^ bound to Shff/ap(m', from S?/dnc?/, New South Wales, liad been compelled to put into China, and had j)assed them in their passage from the island. We Found it quite impossible to obtain masts at Macao, but fortunately Captain Kcllett was able to purchase a fore and main-mast from one of the wrecked vessels for seven hundred dollars, and the stum|)s of our old foremast served to tongue the mizen-mast. A party of Chinese artificers were en- gaged, and we very shortly had a small dockyanl in full energy, on one of the reaches within pistol-shot of our anchorage. The Chinese are excellent workmen, but are not so expert (when hired) as Europeans. When compelled by their authorities to work for go- vernment, they can even astonish us. liut nothing will induce them to move out of their established routine, or work beyond the hours of six A. M. and p. m., and during these nominal twelve hours, not six hours' work is performed. Our progress, therefore, was tediously protracted ; and although my recovery chiefly depended on remaining quiet at Macao, I found my presence necessary during the greater part of the day in the Typa. ^ i CHAPTER VII. Arrival of Admiral Sir W. Parker and Sir H. Pottinger— Distri- bution of the force — The ('hinese re-fortify the (Janton river — Sulphur detained at Macao — Arms clandestinely supplied to the Chinese — Madagascar steam-vessel wrecked — Feelings to- wards the English — Various boats in use — Quit the China waters — Return to Singapore— ('limate — G '»i(»,v —Malacca — Pinang — Acheen — Malays — Conduct of the .'<»itan — Obser- vations. a '2 i; li! '2'2H INTKRVIKW WITH TIIH ADMIRAL. [IHII CHAPTER VH. On the moniin<>- of the lOt.'i, tht? lion. East India Company's steamer, Sesostris, was observed at an- (^hor in the roads, bearing- the flag of liear-Admiral Sir W. Parker, K. C. B., and haviiig- on board his Excellency Sir H. Pottinger, Bart, our new and sole plenipotentiary. The Nemesis immediately pro- ceeded to her, as the depth would not allow so large a vessel to approach nearer, and by eight o'clock Sir H. Pottinger, Sir W. Parker, and their suites, had landed under a salute from the battery on the iVaya Grande. They immediately proceeded to call on Major-General Sir Hugh Gough, who ha])- pened to be staying for a few days for the benefit of his health at the house of Mr. Matheson, and then proceeded, accomjjanied by Cai)tain Elliot, to wait upon his excellency the Governor of Macao. I was received very kindly by Sir William Parkier, and was assured f)f accompanying tlie expedition, if the ship could be masted and re-manned in time. He remained until noon, when, having given general 1H41.J TMK FLKKT SAIL FOR AMOY. •J-JO luuliouct'js, lie (Ifpiirted lor llong-koiiji; to lioist liis flag. Oil tile 12th lio returned in the Queen, to nuike some necessary arranpfenients, and to attbrd Sir Henry I'ottinger an opjiortuiiity of inspect in<5' that vessel, which was ordered to be fitted for his acconiinoda- tion. On the appearance of Sir W. Parker at IIon<>- kong, that [dace soon presented a scene of unwonted activity. A certain number of transj)orts were ]>laced under the supervision of the (raptains of the line-of-battle-ships and frigates, and every exertion was made for the earliest dejiarture. On the Oth day after assuming tlie command, the fleet moved from llong-kong, bound for Amoy. Previous to (putting Macao, the Quaug-chow-foo came in great iiaste, to obtain an interview with our new plenipotentiary, and probably endeavour to ascertain to what extent thev might calculate on his forbearance. He was not received by Sir Henry, but, I believe, saw Major Malcolm, and finally transferred himself to Caj)tain Elliot. This was the first blow to mandarin pride, and rather astonished tiie high officers at Canton, as well as the tradesmen anrobal)ly announcing the appointment of Sir IF. Pottinger as her Majesty's Plenipotentiary. Captain Nias was left in command of the force in Canton river, having under him at Hong-kong the Herald, Alligator, Hyacinth, Royalist, and Hel)e tender. At Mjicao, Sulphur and Starling. The Atalanta was assigned to convey the commo- dore, Sir J. G. Bremer, K. C. H., and Captain Elliot, to IJombay, in order to proceed home ovcrhuul. They embarked on the 24th. The Sulphur might j)erhaps have done better had she put to sea, and found her way to Singapore, as there was not the slightest prospect of her crew becoming eft'ectivc even, if they were immediately returned to duty. Notwithstanding a special proclamation, declaring that any attempts to re-arm the batteries, or impede the navigation of the river, would be treated as acts of hostility, the imperial rebel- quelling general, and his colleagues, immediately set about repairing their defences, constructing new batteries, and effectually closing the approaches to Canton. Another memorial appeared, 'n which they state that the English foreigners (no longer rebels) have left the provincial river, have given back the forts, and that the militia and volunteers have slaughtered a great many native traitors, imd Jhrcif/n (f) roljbers who were raising disturbances; and that tliey had 7 1H41.] CIIINKSK (iASCONADK. •jyi ivstorcd (jiiii't to t\\v provincial city; that llicy had fouwuuuh'd that tlic I'^n^Hish siiips shouM fortiiwith i^ot u|) their anchors and de|)art; that tiu; said forcii^nors innnodiately ^i^ot more than tun sail ot'thcir ships under wei^di, and left the river when one «>!' their connnanders, Warren, petitioned, sayin^jf, that the real fact oi' the matter was, the forei<;n niendiants of every nation were very hard pushed for money, and worrying iiim for payment of their debts ; that they iiad no intention whatever to o/W into the river" by violence, incited by Mie native traitor^s showing them the -way;" (query Sulphur's?) witii other trash. They tiien finish by slating that hav- ing csiptured two hundred native traitors and fo- reigners, black as well as white, among which last w<»n' two chief prr.son,% they should ])e beheaded at Namoan. Oue of the two chief |)ersons was stati'd to l>o Breiiier, and that the I'^nglish were willing to pay one hundred dollars to innsom the body, which they had stowed away in a secluded house, and which they inten Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716)872-4503 :/. 2'3'2 DUTIKS IX I'OUT. [h^41. (I ) emperor, Yislmii, i« one of the most grossly re- probate cliaracters tluit luis entered Canton. The fleet having ])roceeiled to tlie cai)ture of Amoy, Ningpo, Chinhae, &e., as we were not eye witnesses, I must refer my readers to the Gazettes for i)articulars. Amoy fell on the 2Gth of August ; Chusan on the 1st of Sejttember ; Chinhae on the 10th ; and Ningpo on the 13tli. Our duties, in addition to those customary to ships in j)ort, were particularly directed to the su]>- pression of supplies of ordnance, small arms, and ammunition to the Chinese. These were imported into Macao, noinhmlly to Portuguese merchants, but sold to the Chinese, and shipped olf l)y night to Canton. The importations were in British vessels, and I wish I could have the satisfaction of clearing my mind from the conviction that British agency was not activ(dy interested. The end)arlvations took place at the j)orts of Madras and Singapore. Un- fortunately I was too late in the case of the Sesos- tris, or I should have detained that vessel until the decision of the Admiral authorised their being- landed. They were landed at the Custom-house, and so much had been said about them, that during our stay they were not removed. Indeed, I kept a constant guard over them, day and night, and had they been found in a Chinese vessel, out of the waters of Macao, they vvould have been instantly captured. Having been ordered <>ver to Hong-kong upon !■! 1S4I.] TlIK RIVKU STAKED. '2:v.] some trivial duty, and ^iveii the <>uar(l, tlu' Sesos- tris evaded our guard-l)oat, mid as f hud been in- formed that she had muskets and annuunition still on board, ue were (lespatehed to examine her. VVe found iier at Whampoa, but the search was fruitless. During my stay at W'liampoa, I learned from seve- ral gentry just returned fnmi Canton, "that tiie Chi- nese had ertectually staked the rivc>r at llowqua's Folly, and that even boats passed with difficulty." No measures were taken to examine the other channel ; indeed, Ca})tain Nias had given me cxi)ress orders ^'md to look into these matters.'"' It is not probable that Canton will again be approached by our ships, unless nature makes some violent effort to clear a new channel. I hear it constantly observed that ''the wet sea- son will carry all before it." When does this wet season occurs We have now been within Canton river since the 13tli of Decend)er last, and have not witnessed any extraordinary freshes, nor anything a])proacliing the power alluded to. That a channel wouhl very soon be opened if re- (juired, I should be very sorry for one instant to doubt, and I should be too ha|)j)y to prove the question. " Im])ossi))ilities " of such a nature do but sharpen one's wits. I was surjirised one day by a note from Mr. .1. Matheson, announcing Ids wish to sec me at Macao ; and still more so, on my arrival at his house, at the perusal of a letter from Captain Dicey, of the late I II \l 2:34 WUECK OF THE MADAGASCAR. [1841 J M * 'ti Honorable East India Company's wteamer Madagas- car, which had quitted nie but a few nights pre- vious, bound to the nortli, and having on board my old friend Captain Grattan, 18th Royal Irish, charged with despatches for the plenipotentiary from Lord Auckland. It reported their wreck near Namo, with himself, Captain Grattan, twelve Euro- peans, and thirty Lascars, and begged for assistance. It further stated, that they had called themselves Americans, in order to i)revent their immediate mas- sacre, or until they fell under the protection of a mandarin. So far, })erhaps, their lives were saved ; but it is deeply to be lamented that so soon as they found themselves in the power and under the pro- tection of the mandarin, who cudently knew that they were English, they did not declare their true colours, and call upon their own country for inter- ference. Still it is difficult to decide how the ma- jority would act under the pressure of the moment, and probably without much time for consultation. Doubtless, there were individuals of the party high- minded enough to sacrifice themselves without hesi- tation, to a sense of honour, but they might feel considerable difficulty in involving forty-one others, who must inevitably share his or their fate. Everything which could be done under the cir- cumstances was most cheerfully and zealously en- tered on by Mr. Matheson, one of the most spirited as well as inlluential merchants at Macao. Nothing, however, can be done ex[te(liti()usly (short of losing 1841.] Ul'llUAU AT CANTON. •j:3'> life) in Chiiui, and we had, therefore, i)atientiy to await the result of the system adopted. Society in Canton appears to be comj)letely un- hinged, and all respect to the local authorities at an end. The feeling against the vmr harhariaus also is very inveterate, and this was lately vented in an extraordinary manner against the old Quang-choM- foo, (supposed friend of the English.) It ap- pears that Yu Paoushun, the prefect of Canton, decked with his (new) peacock's feather, i)ro- ceeded, in the due course of custom and duty, to the great hall of examination, where the literary candidates had assembled for their annual exercises. On his entry, some of these high-spirited gentry became restive, showed symptoms of discontent, and eventually began to ridicule. For tnis they were called to order, and sharply reprimanded ; whereupon the public voice broke forth ; they be- came clamorous, began to hiss, called his honour a traitor, and hurled their inkstones * at his head. Unable to withstand such missiles, the old gentle- man determined to withdraw ; but on leaving the; hall, one of the most daring of the malcontents at- tempted to break his sedan-chair. A great disturb- ance ensued. The Nanhae-heen, (magistrate of the district of Nanhae,) who is second in authority to the prefect, then came forward, soothed these excited literati, and begged them to come again next day * Slate slabs i'or Indian ink, weighing hall' a pound to one ])onnd each. i L>:](; WAU-.HNKS. [1S4I for cxjuniiijitioii, wlioii the (MUiiiiiissiom'r of jiistici» wouM coiiic to tlio IiJill. On till' IStli, tlic picfocl liail ivsolvi'd to ri'sioii liis ollicc, wliicli iininiMliiitcIv rol lowed Tho fast bojits, war jmiks, tea boats, tradiii;*' jimks, &t'., Iiave been fVe(|iu'ntly alluded to. I tlierefbre deem it riglit to insert tiieir (b'sciiptions se|)arately le war junk. in the f'ollowin**- order. First, " Tl wliieli may be very readily conceived by supposin*!;' tliewood-cut beneath, ^\•hich rej)res(>nts the large trad- ing'junk to have guns allotted to her painted ports. TKADIN(; .IINU. Abaft the mainmast, however, in those intended for war vessels is an arched cabin, the roof of wjiicli rises about four feet above the deck, and its deck * Cliiufsc Rcj). 1S4I.] SAL'l-.Fl'NKs. '2',]] is jilxHit tlic Sfmic (l('|>tli Im'Iow the n|»p(M- deck. No •i'uns Jirc mounted abaf't tlic niiiiimiast. Tlicv oc- ciipv the si>jic(' Itotwccn tlu' t'orr and maininasts. Till' cabin arch is contiinuMi aft alM)ut ten feet, fonninii' a deck magazine, vvhicli, of course, is vorv liable to accident, and any rockets strikiniif tliat part of the vessel, must inevitably cause an ex|»losion. Indeed, one may almost say that from the loose manner in wliicli their anuuunition is made u|>, and frecpiently filled as recjuiied, that a train is always laid from this mag'azine to the j^uns, winch mi<>lit l)e ignited, cvimi by Ji rocket passing over tliat ])art of the deck. A second war junk is frecjuently fitted from a fishing vessel, or " salt jinik," similar to the annexed wood-cut, and merely has four or six guns mounted to fire over all. I sAi/r .ii::si\ OR i'isinN(; junk. L^:3H F\ST I'.OATS. [1S41 I J Tlic fast boat, . ..icli uuiy be apin'opriatcly toniio- hatched, \vher<( eadi pair of rowers sit, and armed with one or two brass ^nns in the bow. They liave also six or ei«>ht ^in^^als, nionnted on the gunwales, which carry a leaden l)all of two onnces. The crew arc* dressed with short bine sin'rts, loose short trousers, and conical caps, the latter formed of a basket work of rattan, which re- sists the l)low of a cutlass, and are generally painted red and white. Their shields, which are formed of the same material, and pointed with various de- vices, are about three feet in diameter : they fancied them ball proof, but were sadly mistaken. This same description of vessel is that used for H ' t I ' ?* I ' iTt I'AST nOAT OK SMUGGLKU. I 1H41.] TKA Ho ATS. •j:j!) simially for river navigation, and is generally about one hundred feet in length hy twenty wide. They are fitted with a suhtnnt'iallj/ built arched roofj having a sliding arch abaft the mast, which admits of loading. This arch slides closely in grooves, which renders it rain ])roof. I found these vessels would conveniently accom- modate one hundred and twenty men each. TEA BOAT. The sampan is very similar to a boat cut in twain with a stern fitted imide tlu^ nlankino- ; its irveatest m^ If ■ :f ' Etcc; K 1 LMO KKCKIVK (X'U kKLEASK. [IS^I. liii I breadth Ixmiio- jit tlu' stern, which forms ji seniicirch'. One is sliown stern on in the wood-cut of the trud- iiii*' junk. Tliey are navigated by Tartar womcH, wlio entirely live in them at ni^lit; they are housed l»y a slidin*,^ bandxto arch, wluch is pushed back, like scales, l)y day. On tlie 14th of November, lier Majesty's ship Larue arrived from Chusau and Nin<>i)o, lu'in^^in^' the lately |)romoti'd ca])taius aud other officers from the squadron, on their homeward j)assa<;'e. liy her 1 received my release, with a ])rivate uote from tlie admiral; but my little cousort, the Starlin<>', was to be paid oft) her crew transferred to the Svdphur, and Captain Kellett to re-man her by volunteers from the merchantmen, and join tlu^ admiral, for survey- mg service. To me this detention would perhaps have been less felt; but Kellett had so long set his heart on home and arranging his atl'airs, that he was any- thing but gratified ; although it would probably en- sure his further i)romotion. His separation from me was a still greater blow, all our operations foi* the last six years having been carried on so entirely in conjunction, that they could only be unravelled by our united efforts ; and as he was my only actual assistant, I was thus left burthened with the whole labour of the expedition, as well as our Chinese surveys, which even our united endeavours could not possibly " lick into shape " before the return of the ship ; independent of the necessary writing and cal- culations. 1.^41.] SAIL rUOM MAf'AO. LM1 Jlut tlio fiat lijul IsHUod, and it waM idle to ro})iiic. It was j)orliaps of 0(|ual, if not of morn importance, tliat his services slionid l)o available during tlie present openin<; of China. I therefore determined, in rom|dian('e with the a(hnirars wishes, to render him as eomi»lete as eitiier ])nl)lir or pri- vate means wonld admit, for his own eruize, and made np my mind to tlie sej)aration. To those only who know liow much we were together, or in com- munication, since 1831, can this feelin<^ l)e un' morniuii' we fouud ourselves drifted far to leeward on the liintano; shore, aud were uual)le, by reason of li<»;ht batHiii^- winds, to reach into the straits until the eveniu<;; of the 4th of December, when, witli a fresli breeze at N. E., we passed over the tail of the bank oU'the Jioniania Shoal, and by dawn the following morning readied close oft' Singapore. On the master attendant visiting, I learned tliat my good friend the governor (Mr. Bouham) had embarked in a merchant ship, in order to visit Pinang, and otlier parts of his government, and was then underweigh, departing. After paying him my faroweli visit, we anchored abf)ut eight, in the roads, where I found the United States frigate Constellation, 38, bearing the broad pendant of Com- modore Kearney, and the Boston corvette, Comman- der Low, on their way to Manila and China, and at this critical moment of dispute with America, not very opportune visitors. However, being in a British port, they were guests, and I lost no time in calling on them, and was much pleased with their acquaintance. 1S41.] SIKAM VKSSKT-S. 24n I took u|> my old (luurters at tlio r(»('orreeable day. On the day wc arrived, the Medusa, lion. I'^ast India Company's steamer, was noticed outside, and coals having been sent out to her, she paddled into, the anchorage. This vessel, with the Ariadne, of similar construc- tion, quitted this port some time since, to join the fleet in China. They reached within two hundred miles of Manila, when their coal being ex])ended, the Ariadne was signalled to return to this port, and the Medusa reached Manila. There she ob- tained a small supply of refuse coal and wood, and made an attempt to reach Macao. She was in su/ht ; but having burned all her bulwarks, fittings, &c., and having no anchors or cables sufficiently long and strong to hold her in deep water, she bore up for Singapore. The Ariadne not having a])peared, she R -2 I I, i % 244 SCANTY SUl'PLY UF STORES. [1S41, was doemetl lost, and as tlio present season rendered it impossible for the Medusa to make asecond attempt, as well as orders from the governor general having arrived to reeal her, she was refitted, and sent to Moulmein, to join the force watching that port. The Ariadne subsequently reached Manila, having ob- tained wood in Borneo. We were detained some days at Singapore, wait- ing for bread, which could only be baked (by the Chinese) at the rate of one thousand pounds per day, and the American ships, supplied by the same parties, were also detained for the same reason. Although a free port, and abounding generally with stores, there are but few fit for a ship of war. No cordage fit to reeve could be found ; which, considering the great influx of ships connected with the China expe- dition, rather indicates want of judgment in the mer- chants, as I am satisfied large sums would have been realized by shipping it on to Macao. European rope at one period fetched as much as twenty dollars per pocul (of one hundred and thirty-two pounds;) spars fit for mainmasts of vessels of five to six hundred tons, twelve to fifteen hundred dollars each. At the moment that we were in distress for masts, I ex- amined a junk's mast, oflfered for sale, which would not make us either fore or main mast, but for which they asked twelve hundred dollars. On receiving our unexpected orders here last year, we were unable to procure any articles of re- fit for our wardrobes, and eventually obtained them 1841.] CLIMATK. 24;") at Macao. These are points which all travellers or voyagers bound this way should be api)rised of. It is possible that these wants may soon be remedied, and probably an overstocked market will be the re- sult. The climate of Singapore is reckoned warm, but ]>articularly healthy. Although nearly on the equator, invalids from other tropical regions frequent this sjiot. The temperature seldom ranges above 82", during their cool or rainy season. But this term is scarcely justifiable, seeing that the rain merely falls in showers, and seldom exceeds half an hour in dura- tion ; they are, indeed, merely refreshing showers. The average fjill of rain during the year is ninety inches. February, March, and Ai)ril are considered the hottest months ; April until October those lia- ble to rain, — when, for the instant, it descends in heavy volume. The formation may be considered granite, iron and red sandstone, and vegetable matter mixed with coralline debris. This latter occurs particularly in the region wiiere the magnetic observatory is situated, and as far inland as where the American consul re- sides, and in all probability is the cause of the earlier putrefaction of the water in wells or stag' nant pools. Lumps of scoriaceous iron j)resent themselves here and there, evidently exhibiting some violent convulsion, which has entirely upset {dl atteni])ts to pursue stratification. 'J'he soil produces sugar-cane, cotton, cott'ee, [)ej)- I fi 21(1 llOSniAI.ITV. [1H4I. .«* !i jHM', cloviN, mitnu^u', lK«t(«l-imt. cimiiiUKm, cocoji, maize, i)iiu'-Mj)|)l«'s, (a |HM-i*oct wood) platitniiis, H^;m, and (!)(» usual kitcIuMi I'^ardcn produce*, wliicli tlio Cliiiioso roar vory idoutilully. Tho oustoniary couvoyanoos aro |)alan(|uins, drawn by l»onios, as woll as i>ii>M, and o|)on pliaotons, &c., I)olonj>in<>' to privato individuals. Tlu^ oustoniary liir(» of tlio |>alaii(piin is ono dollar por day. Tho town contains throo hotols. Tiiat most I'ro- «piont(Ml, and maintaincMl in tlio host stylo, is kept hy Mr. Dutroncpioy. It is in oxtorior moro liko a palaro than an inn. Thoro aro tahlos provided. JvNj)onsos aro similar to thoso of all hotols «>nt of liUH'Iand : dollars horo aro as rapidly oonsumod as shillinu's in l'inu;land. Tho rosid(>nts aro oxtromoly hospitahio; thoy gonorally dino at four, and littlo fonnality is ohsorvod. Tho fashion iudood ju-(*soril)os wliito jackots, and tho jundsah is as indispiMisablo as in India. INI oat and poultry aro oxponsivo. for tho country, l)oin<>' doaror than in our I'.Uiilisli inarki»ts. Wati'r is supplied to tho shippino- by tank-vossols, at tho rato of om* dollar por ton ; boof at olovon and a halfciMits; biscuits, four and a half cents; fuel, throe and a half dollars for one thousand billets. Late on tho ovcnino- of tho 17tli December, wo (piitted Sin 17 tlio inoniiii^^ of i\\v iJOtli, vviicii wo uiK^lionMl ulMnit. rettily situated on a well- wooded mound or clump, on the summit of which stand the fort, signal-] )ost, and stadt-lMHise ; tli(M»tlier louses surroundiiiir tlu; base on its out(M' or soutluirn si'ii^nu^nt, extending- about half a mile in distamrc", and skirted by villas ri^dit fuid left. The river divides the town at the base of tin; stadt-liouse, or governor's resideiK^e. It is navlu^abh; at liii^li water for small vessels, but at low wat(!r boats cannot approach within half a mile of the l)eacli, by reason of tl i(! mu( I Hat. Lijyj-ht bafHing airs did not permit our makin;^- much ]»ro^Tess, and durinv. i i 248 IMNANd. [1841 Jl' ««v, V2 On tln> 2Gtli of l)i'('t'inl)t'r we si<^litcMl Piiuiiig, junl on tlic ni^ht following, having despatchod tlic nui8tor ahead in the gig, to show ligiits on the re- rivate resideucos ; and the eastern by the town. The sides of this delta occupy about two miles on the sea faces, and i)erhaps more on the land from wheu(u^ the mountains spring. This level triangular space is trav(3rsed by most excellent roads, well sheltered by trees of luxuriant growth principally of the cocoa-nut, betel, j)alm, and bam- boo. It is customary to drive out on these roads between the hours of four and seven, terminating usually at the jetty or i»romenadc, at the eastern apex of the triangle, to talk scandal, &c., until seven, the customary hour for dinner. The town containsthe usual well-builtpublicoHices, 184-2.] nEL iiKTirio. 24J) hIiojih of all trades (ehiofly Cliincso) immmcrablo ; with the addition of the usual (juantum of tilth, &c., which one generally encounters wherevcu* the Chi- nese arc! located. On new year's day I {icconi])anied the governor on a visit to Mr. (Jarling, (the resi:)(► UKAUril'lHi SCKNKUY [IS.4-J. Ht tlicir kind iuu\ worthy Im>s(, Mr. (liirliiiir. I tmWy lu'^Mii to faiKiy tli.'it, we li.'ul iipproaclKMl lioiiic soinc- wliat su ; and at «layIiL»ht eonnneneed our descent. lUd Ketiro is situated two thousand live hundred feet ahov(> the h>vel of the sea, and ju'rched on the seetMid highest of ti)e several nipples whieii crown this rauii'e, and on nu)st of which are snn;jf little rv- treats, toriuin<»' sylvan ])alaces. It coniinauds a V(' hori- zontally, and only to be kept out by closed docu'S and windows. Tiie si^'nal-[)ost is situated on this hill, within a very few yards of the house. On a hill, not nnu'h beyond musket ran^o be- ni'ath, but which took lou<>er to travel, is situated tiie house of his Honour, the recorder, to whoiji we paid a visit, as well as to other beauties surrounding this au:reeable retri'at. After experiencing much kindness and attention from i\lr. nonhani, 1 took my leave on the night of the ord of danuary, aided 1)V a fresh land breeze whicli carried us clear of the land before midnight. M really ions of iW mo iM;iine«l ir uiilil and at liundri'd on tlu' 1 crown ittU) vo- ls a very iil»jo('t. to to tlioso o visiti'«l r term ; ,<>• hori- «(l «lo(»rs on tliis IS 12. J DKKI'-HKA DkKIMtlNd. 2.') I an<^o sitnatod wlioili wo roiuuUnj;' attention niji;ht of 1(1 broozo nii«Wii<'lit. Our (MMirM(; "vnH nliaiu'd to sinlit I'nio I'cra, wliicli wo passed uitliin four miles on tlie noon Ibllowln^r. More the breeze slackene Diamond. Had the weather been |iro|iitious, it wa;. my intention to iiave fixed its [losition, but this was now ^i^iven uj». As wo were Just in oniOnnidred fathoms of water, and luM'alnied, tiio dredtli. Wo wen? particu- larly succossful in obtaining- live sjiecimens «»r tere- bratula, cliama, minute shells, echini, and asteria ; toniporatnn^ of sea at surface 82, <'i;;'hty fathoms below 5;')'. Ll<]^ht bafllin^ airs prevented oin* |>ro' it my main ])osition for fixin^j^ tiie (iolden Mountain. At (mr anchoraii^e tho current W!is found to set ono and a half mile i>er hour west until midnight, wIkmi it changed, having tho same velocity, to E.N.E. On tho morning following wo landed, and having com])lotod our observations l)y sunset, boro away for Achoen, distant about ton miles. Wo ajicliored for I I ACIIEEX. [1H42. if! i; ' i f Pi the night, but shifted as close in as safety permitted the foHowiiig niorniiif^, or M'itliin the influence of the river current, which perceptil)ly discoloured the sea, and althou«^h distant about three quarters of a mile from its mouth, the Mater was fresh on the surface within a cable's length of the ship. The entrance to the river is very shallow for two hundred yards from its mouth, and at its deej)est part on the bar, has only three feet six iuches at low water. As the flood never overcomes the force of the stream, although the level rises, a constant series of overfalls or small rollers result, tending rather to cause doubts in strangers as to the safety of landing. This, with chronometers and valuable instruments at stake, becjime matter for considera- tion. For this reason, I deemed it prudent to transfer the more important artielts to a larger boat, and move in with my gig, (a very full whale boat,) and if safe, signalise the cutter to follow. On entering these ])etty rollers, I found that they as- sisted us much in our i)rogress against the swift current, and once within the bar, that we were quite in still water. Having a letter for the sultan of Acheen from the governor of Pinang, stating the olyect of our visit, I had determined on delivering it ; but finding the distance to liis town great, the strtam rapid, and moreover, time precious, I was glad to put off this ceremony, despatching it by one of his rajahs. Our signal soon 1)rouglit the boat in, and the tents, &c.. ;•' li I [1H4-2. niiittod eiice of ired tlie M'S of a on the for two doopost [iclicH at the forco constant tending le safety valuable lonsidera- udcnt to a larger ill whale ow. On they as- the swift we were from the our visit, inding the apid, and it off this ahs. Our tents, &c.. 184-2.] MKSSAOH rm)M rilK SULTAN. 25:j were ])it('lied upon a low sandy point, unfortuiiati'ly containing a large proportion of iron sand. 1 was visited shortly by a rajali, by wlioni I was informed that I might expect a reply in the evening. A Moulmcun vessel, commanded by a Portuguese half-caste, hap])ening to be in the river, I was for- tunate enough to obtain his services as an inter] ure- ter. In the evening, one of the sultan's household visited us, with a message from his master, as well as a i)resent of a bullock and some fruit for the ship's company, also intimating that "the sultan would be glad to see me, and that orders had been given to see our wishes attended to on the bcacli." A message was returned, that I would visit him on the morrow, before noon. Fortunately, although surrounded by these half pirates, who were, from the boys upwards, armed with kris, dagger, or scymitar, (the latter used for hatchet or any other purpose, and a very formidable weapon,) we were enabled to keep them at a very fair distance, and found them less troublesome than more civilised nations, — who, knowing the incon- venience of causing the ground to vibrate, or ap- proaching the magnetic instruments with weapons or iron, would frequently intrude or walk about, to our manifest discomforture. Indeed, I have gene- rally found that a lead line marking the boundary of approach, has been more efficient than the armed sentinel. Having remained on shore during the night, and 1 1 1 1 1 1 \\ 1 254 ASI'KCT or IIIK UIVKk. [1S42. < It roinpk'tod tlio noooflsnry hovwh of observations Ix-fort' nine tlio next iiioniino', nKihjrc tlio torturo ofiiiyriiuls of inos(|iiitoos and sand-tlios, I set off in my ^i*^, aoei)nij)anie(l hy tlie surgeon and onr interpreter, to pay my respects to his liigliness. For tlie first mile \vc found both sides of the river marshy, and the river itself, M'hieli is about sixty yards across, obstructed by sand laiolls ; Init passino- these, the banks at the sides of tlie river be- come firm, of solid red ejirth or clay, with well- beaten footpaths Avithin a few yards of the banks. The scenery is picturesque, with several s])ots of cleared level ground, and detached grassy islets. About two miles from the entrance, Avhere the large trees overhang the river, we noticed several large buildings, and were hailed by the sultan's man of business, who visited us yesterday, and who beckoned us to land at a small country or summer- house belonging to his highness, where he had ap- pointed to meet us. We were ushered into a small divan ascended by a flight of steps, which strongly reminded one of a warder's post, being situated immediately above the gate. This appeared to have been recently fitted up with shawls, rugs, and pieces of old finery, for the occasion. The state-chair, intended doubtless for his highness, had a worked crimson seat, em- broidered with tinsel and pieces of looking-glass, intended probably to represent jewels. In the main square stood a very respectable house, in the Moorish 1842.] HULTANS KAMILV. stylo, of tliivc storioH, with vory wide cavoH to cncli, (It'civusiii;^ to tlir uppiT, wliicli nii;;lit Im' ono t'ourtli the capiicity of the <]froim(l Hoor. This, (hmbth'ss, wiiH their iiioscpie, sih at tlie time of i)rayor we saw tliem wash at the adjoininn- cistern, and return to the h)wer ))uihlin<]f, which tiiey tohl us was for prayer. The persons who showed tliemselves at the upper win(h)ws, we were informed, were sohliers. Otlier oHices comj)leted the square, in wliich tiu^ retinue of all descri|)tions appeared to have some particular station. Tliat on the rip^lit was occupicMl entirely by cliihh'en of liis royal hi<^lmess, and not a scanty brood, considering tliey were only the males. These ap})earances oave me but a poor idea of the state of this prince, and as I had arranged mat- ters to return to my observatory again before three, I began at noon to be rather impatient at the neg- lect of his royal highness, and more ])articularly at the want of dinner for my boat's crew, which 1 had fully calculated on being properly entertained. Upon expressing my anxiety upon this subject, I was coolly informed that his royal highness viifjld be down about four o'clock, after prayers ; 1 there- fore decided on going to him, and thus obtaining a sight of the town. We accordingly pulled up the river, which presented no further variation than a few cleared spots on the banks. Arriving at a small creek, pointed out by our guide as the nearest landing to the vill.ige, we walked a short distance through roads and grass. I •jr)0 TMK Slff.TANS IIAI'TKI'll. [ 1 842. I I, rather miry from riiiii, wliicli wust tlicii fnllin;,', until wo rcjU'luMl tlio bazaar on tiio outskirts, wliicli did not Hcein eitlior to hv well supplic*!, or to ollor any- tliiii|H»intnu^nt, and turtiior 1 did not believe Ids oniissjiry. However, to test Ills sincerity, 1 desired him to tell his master, "that if he was drsimns of see- ing mo, I should nuH't him at his country-iiouse vvluire lu! had np/toitifn/, provided he was tluM'o when my boat reached it ;" and to allbrd him full time, I drifted down stream, looking out Tor birds, &c., on the banks. As he had not arrived by the time wo reached the place, wo passed on, landed, and shot several very handsome birds. One very beautiful species of bird of paradise, fuinished with long curled fea- thers, in addition to the winf? coverts, flew across the river, but we were unable to get a shot at it. Whilst thus engaged, a special ambassador, at- tended by a largo party, came suddenly upon us with fresh importunities to return; but the only answer I could give was, " that as my time was of the utmost importance to me, his highness would find me at the beach, or on board my ship, and that I begged to assure him that he would neither be denied admittance, shelter, or the hospitality due to his rank ; moreover, that it would probably be the last captain of a British ship of war who would condescend to call upon him after such want of courtesy on his part." Thus ended our communication. The chiefs on the beach paid us more attention. Fowls, &c.> VOL. II. s 258 FISHING IMPLEMENTS. [184-2. V I • n ^li I ^h were brought for sale, and had we remained, doubt- less we should have received the sultan on board. Time, however, was too precious, as wo had much yet to complete at the island of Bouro. Our tents were therefore struck, and by dark we were on our return to our former position, where we anchored early next morning. On our return down the river we called at a small fisherman's retreat, where we found their lines and nets suspended to dry. The nets were of very fine thread, very beautifully worked, and must have been the result of great labour. I inquired, from curi- osity, what they would require for the one before me, about thirty feet long, by thirty yards in cir- cumference ; the reply was, thirty dollars. Labour, therefore, is not cheap in this region. I was particularly struck with the peculiarity of fitting their fishing lines, being precisely the same method as that adopted by the Indians of the eastern coast of America, viz., by a swivel and piece of horn above the lead, which prevents the bait from getting foul. I borrowed the invention from the Indians of Nova Scotia, and although I have everywhere strictly scrutinized the peculiarities of fishing imple- ments, have not before seen it imitated. Had we noticed it in Beh ring's Straits, or the northern Asiatic regions, it would not have appeared so strange, as the Malays are well known to have car- ried their depredations into the northern parts of Tartary, and thence it would easily have been copied into Siberia. I • fi I I :> i V^Jiammmm 1842.] LARGE CANNON. 259 I thought it rather strange, that although a paper was presented by the captain of the port, stating that supplies, refreshments, water, &c., were all to be obtained, nothing could be procured until the moment of embarkation, and then but a scanty supply. On the first day, I noticed that every person came armed, and generally dressed in full costume. But on the last day few were so accoutred. Several lines of old encampments, as well as heavy brass guns, were observed near the beach, and one very large gun at the town, said to be of suffi- cient diameter to admit a man on his hands and knees. I despatched one of the officers, Mr. Sel A-yn, mate, to examine thoso immediately in our rear. He was shown a large gun, of fourteen inches bore, and measuring twenty-three feet, and several others were said to lie concealed by the jungle. It was brass, of good workmanship, and had characters on it resembling Malay ; but the natives did not under- stand them. Several of the chiefs were anxious that we should visit their divisions of the country, where every arti- cle of supply would be abundantly forthcoming ; at the same time intimating their independence of the sultan. One in particular spoke very good English, and stated his prices, which were much more reason- able than those at Acheen. A superior rajah visited me the first day, elegantly attired. He was very gentlemanly in his manners, called himself a s 2 li 1 ^^■i p 1 ■ i n in iT 1 ' ^' if I 260 OBSERVATIONS. [1842. lieutenant of the rajah's but not tinder his control; and wrote down my name, as well as that of the ship, in English. I wished him to accompany me the next day, to interpret, but he shook his head rather significantly ; intimating that he was not ambitious of the honour. I interpreted it, disincli- nation to jeopardise his freedom. Having reason to doubt our observations on Acheen sand, I determined to renew them on Bouro, where the central position on the island might afford me more satisfactory results. I found, how- ever, that the rocks all, more or less, affected the needles, as in the case of most volcanic formations. The principal object of my visit to Acheen was com- plete! v effected, and we were unusually fortunate in such operations; having experienced fine weather, and rapid transit from station to station. By the astronomical and chronometric bases both coincid- ing, the Golden Mountain is situated in latitude 5°,21',26",5, (Horsburgh 5°,27',0) and longitude 95°,44,'55" E., (Horsburgh 95°,49,'0) its elevation is eight thousand two hundred and eighty-three feet above mean tide level, differing but thirty-three feet at the extreme stations. Water is easily obtained by filling the casks with- in the river points; it even runs fresh to the breaker edge ; but it is safer in every point of view to water inside, as the rollers are not always to be trusted. Riding at the anchorage is very uneasy, but at [1842. I control; at of the npany me his head was not ;, disincli- nations on on Bouro, md might 3und, how- ^ected the formations. II was com- ortunate in te weather, n. By the >th coincid- in latitude longitude ;s elevation (ighty-three Ithirty-three 1842.] BULLOCKS. 261 Bouro less so, if the island be brought to bear E.N.E. in fourteen fathoms. The bullocks obtained here are in fine condition ; that we obtained weighed two hundred and fifty pounds. Their scymitars are made by native workmen, the steel being imported from Calcutta. They are valued at one and a half to two dollars each ; but although anxious to obtain one, no one would be induced to sell, even for double their value. I casks with- jsh to the lint of view I ways to be isy, but at m I li CHAPTER VIII. Ceylon — Point de Galle — Climate — Sail again — Numerous ma- rine animals — Natural history — Anchor at Pov. Victoria, Se- chelles — Partiality of the seamen for cocoa-nuts — State of Victoria — Black population — Description of v oechelles from their almanack — Mahe — Monsoons — Cession of the islands to England — Terms of capitulation — Political and conimercial importance — Woods — Quit the S^chelles — Majambo Bay, Madagascar — Appearance of the coast — Natural history — Ab- sence of natives — Sail for the Cape of Good Hope — St. Helena — Ascension — Cape Blanco — Arrival in England — Liberality of the Admiralty — Paid of— Conclusion. i 2G4 I'OINT DE GALLE. [1842. If 1 CHAPTER VIII. P M On the 14th January we quitted Bouro, and shaped our course for Point de Galle, the southern- most port in Ceylon. Strong north-easterly breezes favoured us, with a good offing. On the night of the 17th, we passed over the position of the Bale of Cotton i ack, and steered for the Basses, which we passed about six, on the morning of the 20th. Having steered a course intended to pass close to the southernmost, and possibly fix its position if becalmed, we found ourselves at dawn about fifteen miles off' shore, and had drifted considerably to the south-west : about eight, Dondra Head and flagstaff visible N. N.W., and the land about Point de Galle in the western distance. Here we were tan- talized, not above twenty miles from our port, with light baffling airs, barely enabling us to stem an easterly current, as well as an offshore set. About eight in the evening, we were visited by a fisherman, M'ho understood English, and having ascertained that we were bound to Galle, he re- ii ' [184-2. 1842.] UN PROPITIOUS WKATIIEK. '205 luro, ami southern- [y breezes oht of the 3 Bale of which we th. pass close s position n about msiclerably Head and Lt Point de were tan- lort, with stem an Isited by a iid having lie, he re- mained by us, aftbrding us his assistance as a pih)t. Jiy four A. M., we reached the outer anchorage, and the l)reeze failing, dropped our kedge. At daylight, linding that we were not more than eight miles from the shore, and that the sea breeze would not ftiako before noon, I quitted in my gig to examine the place, and seek a suitable position for my tents. On landing, I proceeded to call on the nnlitary commandant, Major Darby Griffiths, of the 90th, from whom I experienced much civility, and the utmost readiness to further my pursuits. The posi- tion fixed on was the space between the magazine and the rampart on the Utrecht bastion, free from guns or other iron materials ; the composition of the rocks being either entirely granite, or pure coral limestone. I am, perhaps, tediously particular in mentioning these points ; but I have particularly felt the want of such precise information, when making a i)ort, and it is of importance to know between what two actual points meridian distances have been measured. I had hoped to be able to obtain a series of moon culminations ; but so uncertain was the weather, that after getting the transit into the meridian, not a single opportunity offered of getting both moon and star; and it was only by a severe attention for the whole progress of the sun from half past eight until half past ten, a. m., over every ten mirmtes of altitude, that I secured corresi)onding observations to enable me , ■I SI 'i •■ ' ■f "u n,i ! ! n r \ T 2CG UESCRIl'TION OF GALLE. [184-2. to (juit. In other respects, all our observations were parti cularV' satisfactory. These being com- pleted on tlie evening of the 25th, the tents and observatory were embarked. The night previous to our arrival, the steamer India, from Calcutta and Madras, with passengers for the overland mail, touched here for passengcs and fuel, and departed on the evening we arrived off the port. She liad on board several of our Oiina com. j)anions. Captains Anson, Fletcher, Col. Adams, 18th regiment Royal Irish, and others whom I was anxious to meet. The Larne had landed them at Madras, and had not yet passed on, although they (juitted Macao a week before us. Point de Galle, or Galle, as it is simply termed by the residents, is situated on a peninsula, about half a mile in length by one-third of a mile in breadth, and is entirely comprised within the walls of the fortification ; the parapets on the neck of the penin- sula being about fifty to sixty feet in height. It was built by the Dutch ; which may possibly account for the fact that none of the houses enjoy a view of the harbour, and consequently are not much benefited by the pure sea breeze. The greater part of the town, inhabited by the lower orders, is si- tuated betwen the sea walls, and the houses occupied by government ofllicers, which rise on the slope of the hill, on the land side. One exception, however, exists, in the house of the master attendant, Mr. Twynham, which is situated on tlie crown of a small 1842. 1842.] SUPPLIES. 2G7 rations • com- ts and iteamer seiigers sengc's ivcd off na com- ns, ISth anxious Iras, and 1 Macao termed a, about breadth* 3 of the 0 penin- ght. It account r a view )t much ter part •s, is si- occupied pe of the however, ant, Mr. f a small detached hill, commanding a free view from 8. E. to N. W. We experienced the most marked attention from this gentleman during our visit ; and his anxiety to further our wishes in every point connected with our duties, calls for my warmest acknowledgment. Having been, during the whole of our visit, closely engaged in observatory duties, I was unable to see anything beyond the ramparts. My visits were confined to the major, the clergyman, and Mr. Twyn- liam. A little recreation would have improved us all, but the general anxiety for home, and an impression that our sick would be better if ex- posed to the fi'll sea breeze, forbade any detention beyond the moments absolutely required to com- jdete our details. The climate is delightful, and having experienced the sultry heat of Trincomalee, one can hardly believe that so few miles intervene, and that it is only six degrees north of the equator. It bears the charac- ter of being very healthy, is about a day's journey from Colombo, and two from Kandy. Supplies of bullocks, poultry, and pigs, are easily obtained, and at a reasonable price. Water is sup- plied by the master attendant. Strangers cannot easily enter the port without a pilot ; and then it is customary to station boats with flags on the most dangerous patches, which vary from three to twelve feet. Ships are usually moored with the bowers to seaward, and the stream in shore astern, which, by 'w 1i It hill? f 208 CUUUKNTS. [184-J. kooi>iii^ tlie ship's lieud to tl»c swell, prevents great wear and tear, iiKlependeiit of comfort. After experiencing nnicli attention and kindnens during our short visit, we quitted Galle on the morn- ing of the 27tli, with more regret than any phice since quitting China. Our course was directed to reach the great MaUhivia Atoll, but light airs pre- vented our advancing more than twenty-five miles by noon the day following. We were then in one hun- dred and seventy fathoms, and another attempt was made with the drel)ios, were observed, and strong rippllii;»s of currents. Soundinle-keeled nautilus were taken, and we were deserted by our old friends. It was remarkable that those which M'cre likely to evade the net by night, as the nautilus and hyala;a, were taken at dawn or after sunset. These were again succeeded by solid masses of transjiarent (probably) medusa*, but not exhibiting organization ; gulf-weed, (fucus natans,) balistes, four-finned flying fish, and helix lanthina. To those inclined to pursue the study of medusa?, Crustacea, &c., the troj)ics afford abundant field ; but the pursuit requires perseverance, good apparatus, and a person to watch when the velocity is such as to injure the net, when it should be raised. In this department of natural history, objects arc seldom wanting in sea voyages, and such pursuits II: 270 PORT VICTORIA. [1842. / !!" I ' tend cousidorably to li^litcii tin; ttMlluni nocessarily attiMKlant on cuIiuh, adviTso winds, Sec. Wo had reached within one lunidred and eighty miles of the Seeiielles Islaiuls, one of whieh I had Hcleeted for my next ]>osition, 'out heavy S(jualls, rains, ralnis, and variables, sorely trieitterly of the emancipation, and that their estates ai-e fast falling into decay. Indeed, the blacks, lazy at all times, cannot be persuaded to work voluntarily, and I very strongly suspect that the change from slavery to freedom, or rather tlie entire destruction of any control over their persojis, rendering it necessary to hold out allurements, or adequate ivae services they still maintain they are entitled. I feel much interested about these people, and can see clearly that this heavy cloud, which never will be dispersed, must eventually blight all the prospects of the present holders of estates. The younger branches will never probably have the reality so clearly painted as to become a part of their constitutional antipathy, and will follow the example of the better informed, provided the march of in. tellect be not checked. Capita.' they assert they have not ; slaves they certainly have not : to hire them they have not the means ; and unless some speculative ».haracters drop VOL. n. T 31 274 LITERARY SOCIETY [1842. ,, f. in with their spare thousands, it is very evident that this beautiful and very capable group will fall into insignificance. That this does not result from want of energy in their governor, as well as amongst themselves, there are abundant proofs, which were made fully apparent to me during my visit. They have formed various useful and scientific associations, and amongst other compliments, they forwarded im- mediately on my arrival an official ticket of admit- tance, accompanied by a complimentary letter from the Literary Society of the Sechellcs, enclosing at the same time one of their almanacks. From the interesting matter contained in the latter, I have extracted the following description of DES ISLES LABOURDONNAIS DITES SECHELLES. I ' !i ) i ! "These isles, twenty-nine in number, form the archipelago, which is the most considerable of the dependencies of the Mauritius, extending meridion- ally from 3" 40' to 5° 35' S., and longitudinally from 5.^° 15' to 5Q° 0' E., and situated about nine hun- dred and fifteen miles from the Mauritius. They were discovered and examined in 1742 by the Tartan, Elizabeth, Captain Lazare Picault, de- spatched by Monsieur Mahe de Labourdonnais from the Isle of France. The captain took possession in the name of the king of France, naming them the Labourdonnais Islands, and the principal or largest, Mahe, which name it still preserves. At a later 1842.] ISLANDS OK TIIK SKCHKLLKS, 27.) period the name of Sechelles was substitiitod for that of Sabourdonnais, in compliment to the Vis- count Herault de Sechelles." [Note. — Yet the French inhabitants affect to be dissatisfied at the change of the name of the port to that of our beloved Queen, maintaining the honour for Mahe. Had they persisted in Picault, I could have comprehended their feelings ; but as they readily dropped Labourdonnais, like good children, when they were bidden, I think even Mahe might die a similar death, without a well-founded groan.] The names of the twenty-nine are comprehended as follows, an asterisk denoting those which deserve the names of islands, the remainder being mere rocks. 1 Mahe,* 2 St. Anne,* J3 Aux Cerfs,* (not inhabited,) 4 Anonyme, 5 South-East, G Longue, 7 Mayenne, 8 Ronde, 9 Therese, 10 La Concep- tion, 11 Silhoutte,* 12 Du Nord,* 13 Praslin,* 14 La Digue,* 15 Curieuse, 16 Ronde, 17 Aride, 18 Felicete,* 19, 20 Les Deux Soeurs, 21 Marianne,* 22 Recife,* 23 Les Mammelles, 24, 25 Cousin et Cousinne, 26 Fregate,* 27 Vaches Marines, 28 Denis, 29 Platte, 30 Bird Island, not mentioned ; the northernmost in 3° 32' S. The island of Mahe, taken from Captain Owen'f? Survey, is sixteen miles N-N.W. and S.S.E., and about five miles in its widest point, and encloses all its islets in a sweep of forty- five miles. It is moun- tainous, with high jutting perpendicular cliffy periks, intersected freely by ravines, and plentifully suj)- i I { 4 27i> MAIIE. [1842. m ifi f.i M ii plied tlierofrom by water, resulting from i)(>r|)etual coruloiisatioii and showers. The soil is reddish, con- sisting principally of a decomposed granite, well adai)ted for vegetable jiroductions, and, as before noticed, well-watered by the branches, natural as well as artificial, from the ravines. On the eastern side of the island is the town situated at the mouth of a valley, formed by a chain of high mountains, bristling Avith rugged rocks, and surmounted by large trees. The most elevated ])oint of this range is termed Morne Blanc, at the base of which several meandering streams traverse the town. The houses are built entirely of wood ; they consist solely of a ground floor, and are generally surrounded by fruit trees within a palisade. Opposite and in front, within the semicircle formed l)y the isles St. Anne, Longue, Moyenne, Ronde, and L'lle aux Cerfs, is the road of Maht; now changed to Port Victoria, which might accommodate a large number of vessels; but I think I may safely (talking of vessels) reduce the aumber from three or four hun- dred to thirty or forty ; and even that number cannot pick their berths. Owing to the transparency of the water, all abso- lute dangers are visible, and the port or inner har- bour may be safely resorted to, where vessels intend- ing to remain any time, will find the water smoother, and without that swell which renders the outer anchorage (by reason of a heavy ground swell con- stantly turning in) very uni)leasant. We also found m 1842.] LINE OF Till': MONSOONS. •J77 tlio aii(!h(H'u-l)l'IM)IN'(i. [184-J. Tlu; finer woods for cabim't purixtscs jiio also Hbuiuhint, JiM(l many pieces of furniture, particularly that nia nat, are very beautiful. ]t appears that since ISlO, with their reduced force of artificers, they have launched no less than forty-five vessels, ran^in^*- from thirty to four hun- dred tons, and amounting" altogether to four thou- sand five hundreh:) rvcry facility, risin^r siuldonly wit'aiii u foot of tin* si'U levi'l, tiiid hsiviii^ a dcptii of tiiroc or four fa- tlioins at the di.staiu'o of thirty ft'ct, wliicli would he al)out tlic position for tho kocl of a liiio-of-hattic 8lii|>. In oonsoquonoo of t\w compli'tc sta^ifnation of husinosN, we found money Hcarce, and bills not nc^'o- tiahle ; \vc oven experienced ditticulty in arran«;in^- for the few supplies obtained. The principal objects of our visit having' been co!npleted, viz. the measurement of the meridian distance and magnetic details, we took leave of our kind friends, Mr. Mylius and family, to whom we are Indebted for much kindness, civility, and enjoy- ment, and on the evening of the 24th February (|uitted our anchorage. Favoured by a heavy squall of thunder, lightning, and rain, wo rounded the southern end of Mahe about midnight. It is not frecpient that seamen hail such meteorological visitors with satisfaction, but tantalised so long as wc have been, on this our homeward voyage, by such a series of calms and variables, we were grateful for any incident which would 8i)eed us to tho Cape, where, doubtless, want of wind will be our last complaint. Having cleared this group, we endeavoured to close or pass to the northward of the Amirantes, or even to the westward of any of the islands situated in c'lr route to Madagascar ; but our old bad for- tune pursued us, the currents driving us rapidly to , . . %• A^*^.^'i fiiiiiii 1>SG SURVEYING PRIVILEGES. t S' ^r r '■'M >:i! i^' |/j I r': [1842. 1 1 ' the S.E. The weather, also, prevented our ohtaiii- ing the necessary observations tor navigating with the requisite precision through these dangers. I often fancy there is something about a survey- ing ship, which helps her through difficulties in the most extraordinary manner, and especially so in the case of the Sulphur. Surveyors are, indeed, in plain terms, pilots, and as such endued with a species of in- tuitive impression of where they are, in spite of all obstacles. This was most fully exemplified on the morning of the 2nd of March, when, by the reckon- ing we were well to the westward of Providence Island. I felt otherwise, and doubled the precau- tions. At dawn we found the reefs under our bows, and only fifteen fathoms of water beneath us. One hour later daylight might not have given sufficient notice. However, the ship was soon leaving it as rapidly as she had approached, and edging along the reef, varying our soundings from five to twenty fathoms, and steering from S.S.W. to E.S.E. for twenty miles, cleared its southern extremity about noon. Unfortunately, the absence of sun and horizon, and the prevalence of heavy rain, prevented our making any satisfactory examination of this danger. The bank of soundings appears to trend S.S.E. from Provi- dence Island, as in most instances we had to haul out E.S.E., to keep in ton or fifteen fathoms, and always shoaled when changing our course to South. The bottom a])pears toleral»ly even, and it was 8 [184-2. ol)tain- ng with •I. survey- s ill the JO in the , in plain nes of in- Lte of all :1 on the B reckon- roviclence e precau- our bows, us. One sufficient ,ving it as along the |o twenty S.E. for lity about |)rizon, and ir making rer. The lorn Provi- Icl to haul [loms, and I to South, it was 8 184-2.] MAJAMBO BAY. 287 plainlj visible^ composed of sand, studded with small rocky patches. There was but little surf. At the moment we rounded the southern tail, the main island bo-e N, i W. Before dark we made Farquhar's, and the Six Islands broad on our iee-beam, and we now had hopes of weathering the north end of Madagascar, a point until this moment (and even then) very problemati- cal in my mind. On the 5th of March, we rounded Cape Sebastian, but still experienced a strong current against us. On the 9th, despairing of reaching Bembatooka, in reasonable time to make good our meridian distance, we bore up at noon, and ran into Majambo Bay, west coast of Madagascar, where we anchored about four p. M., off a low sandy point well adapted for our observatory. I should have selected the northern point, as that given in Captain Owen's chart ; but the anchorage being unsafe, and landing dangerous, I contented myself with a position two miles further to the southward. The tents, &c., were erected before dark, and having my fowling-piece with me, I succeeded in killing a few partridges of a species entirely new te us. Fortunately we succeeded in obtaining our suite of observations the day following, which was a great consolation after our late incessant rains. Not a sign appeared of any recent huts, villages, or inhabitants ; and the whole coast, although grate- 'a\::i i ■■.■»'.»-.-..J I. 1842.] GEOLOGY. 289 the same side of the bay, I visited the cliHT, to ascer- tain the nature of the rock, which I found to be superstratum coarse red sandstone • No. 2, indu- rated clay ; No. 3, apparently the same in a more in- durated state; substratum softer, ai)parently pipe- chiy. Large black blocks and boulders were noticed on the summits, which (from some which had apparently been cast on the beach,) I j)resume to be the coarse sandstone conglomerate. The water flowed over the cliffs and down the ravines in pro- fusion. We obtained mullet of several varieties, and very large. Porgy and other tropical fish were abundant ; several unknown. These were taken by a net set across a creek at high water ; but they were all spoiled, from want of proper salt for the curing mixture. Large sharks were abundant, and pieces of turtle ; but none of the latter noticed alive, nor their tracks on the extensive sandy beaches. Latterly one or two natives were seen near the northern point, but none would communicate. Having completed our labours on the 15th March, we embarked, and put to sea that night. For seve- ral previous evenings, we had been visited by heavy squalls, attended with rain, thunder, and lightning, and this night we experienced rather an unpleasant attack, which laid our lee cabins under water, and did much damage in our department. Our crew still continued to suffer from their VOL. II. u I i "Irrf h'l y ( / -u 290 ADVERSE WEATHER. [1842. diseases coiitrartcd in Cljina, and on the oig-htli G. Sj)iy, a ]»roniisinf>' lad, fell anothoa- victim. The same worrying weather continued to attend us, and on tlie 19th we had only advanced ninety miles from our Port of Departure. We fell in with an American schooner, trading- between Zanzibar and Bembatooka, but gained no intelligence from her. Indeed, our track has laid so completely out of the commercial line, that the sight of a strange sail is quite an event. We now slm|)ed our course to reach the nearest point of the African coast, hoping to meet with the strong southerly currents said to prevail in the Mo- zambique. On the 31st of March wo had only reached latitude 22° ir S., longitude 30° 31' E., but a very heavy long-jawed swell from the S.E. plainly indicated that heavy breezes had prevailed in that direction. Many objects of interest offered, more indeed than the calls on my time could allow me to attend to as closely as they merited. By the towing net, living nautilus, several varieties of hyala^a, cleodora, minute univalves, glossy nautilus, and Crustacea in great variety, abundance, and beauty : enough to afford ample enjoyment to the naturalist, and as many draughtsmen as he could find. But in this latter i)oint the Sulphur was at a very low ebb. Pressed still to the northward, current bottles were thrown overboard at eligible points. Temperature at 1842.] LAGULLAS BANK. •291 79^ 5', atiiK)Sj)luMv moist, and siek list rat! km- on the increase ; and to add to these inconveniences, and render our crew less contented, provisions barely sufficient to reach the Cape by reducinii^ one third, until we reach the range of steady or strong breezes. It had been my intention to have made one more station at Delagoa Bay, but under these circum- stances, and without a chance of obtaining bread or flour there, I was forced to give up all idea of delay, or risk of being caught in that l)ig]it l)y strong soutli- east breezes. On the 2nd April we reached in to Point Harrow, wher^ we experienced a fresh working breeze, and by working close in shore, rounded Cape Corrientes be- fore dark. At this point we first experienced the influence of the southerly current, and from this date made great progress, but the favgurable breezes never continued longer than thirty-six hours, and were generally succeeded by one exactly adverse. On the 10th we struck soundings on the east shoulder of Lagullas bank, in seventy fathoms, and at eight a. m. were about thirty miles S.W. of Cai)e Reciffe. Although we ran offshore thirteen miles, our soundings varied only from sixty-five to seventy fathoms. Here, baffling winds detaining us, fishing lines and dredges were in action. Two very acceptable fish of t\3 Porgy tribe were hooked, and nine univalves, five bivalves, three euryale, and several echini, were obtained by the dredge from sixty-five fathoms; IT 2 ir I 2.02 TKMI'EIIATURE OF SOUNDINGS. [1842. 'II r •• 0 sioa at snrfaco 04°, bottom 02°, ami evidently fossil. Not more than a dcfj^ree difference of temperature was noticed at first entering soundings. But as this was more minutely watclied, as we purposely edged in and off" the bank, it was found off" tlie southern edge to chano-e from 04° to 07°. In the Pacific this had been narrowly watched, but the law was found to be in.ijiplicable, even off the mouth of the river Columl)ia, Sitka, and liigh northern latitudes. On the T2th of April, being becalmed in fog, about one hundred and eight miles off' Cape Hanklip, the dredge was di'ojiped in seventy f^ithoms, by which many very interesting specimens were procured, par- ticularly of Terebratula, wliich occurred alive and in great variety. On the 13th, at noon, we w^re twenty-two miles off Cape Hanklip, and the breeze favouring us, ex- pected momentarily to see it break out from the sur- rounding haze. About three p.m., we passed it within three miles, and at four, sighted the South- am] )ton, l)earing the flag of Vice-admiral Sir E. King. Strong haze and fog, with sun directly in our faces^ did not admit our making out anything before we were abreast Roman Rocks, having overrun our dis- tance much, and l)efore our number could be made we were rather close ujion the flag-ship. Having but one pair of signal halliards the number and the pendant could not enjoy the mast head together, and when the former came down the ensign went I 1H42.] MAGNETISM. 293 up. Some other triHinpf accidents preveiittMl our taking up our intended berth, .and probaldy not shifting our ensign in time ; for all of which I was made to feel very keenly on paying my resi)ects. On board the Southam])ton I had the good for- tune to meet my old friend Captain Ogle, with whom I had become acquainted at Callao, wjien commander of the President, in 1838. We had not the good fortune to receive a single letter for any individual on board the Sulphur. As the refit of the ship could be conducted by the first lieutenant, the moment I was released by the admiral, I obtained leave to rei)air to the Jloyal Observatory, Cape Town, in order to compare our magnetic instruments with those at the Magnetic Observatory conducted by Lieutenant Wilniot, R.N., thus affording decided values to the series observed at the station between this and Singapore. I experienced a very warm reception from Lieu- tenant Wilmot. Mr. Maclear, the astronomer royal, was absent on the triangulation connected with the measurement of the meridian, but from his al)le factotum, Mr. Mann, I received much kind assist- ance, and every facility which the observatory af- forded. The result of my observations proved that I had no reason to doubt the steadiness of the d'p or declination instruments, as they agreed sufficiently (dose with the observations of the days. The in- tensity will l)e ]>roved hereafter. Of these T had less doubt, from their general uniformity during our 1^ i ^'' '2i)4 AMERICAN EXl'LOKINCJ EXI'KDITION. [l}-i4'2. stay ill China, as well as botwoon our i)orio(ls of olj- servation (one year) at Singapore. During my visit to Capo Town I had the plea- sure of renewing my acquaintance with Conimodore Wilkes, (lieutenant, United States navy,) command- ing the United States Exploring Expedition, and who had behaved so handsomely to us when we un- shipped our rudder at the Feejees, giving us the rudder pintles of the Peacock. We had many aH'airs to talk over, and many notes to compare, us he had visited the greater number of our stations, and unfortunately lost one of his consorts, the Pea- cock, on tiie north bar of the river Columbia, where she became a total wreck, the crew barely escaping with their lives. On my return to Simon's Bay, our needles were again tested at the j)Osition occupied by Captains James Clarke Ross, and Crozier, and the ship being ready for sea, we most joyfully (juitted Simon's Bay for St. Helena. Fortunately, the breeze favoured us, and by midnight we passed within musket-shot of the Bellows Rock, and were once more in the Atlantic. A heavy sea on our beam caused us to roll and strain much for several days, but this soon wore off, and we contrived to drop our anchor on the 1 4th day at St. Helena. Here I fouvd her Majesty's ship Grecian, com- manded by my old shipmate, Caj)tain Smyth, (in tliree vessels since 1H14,) whom I very soon had the [deasuie of ^.llaking by the hand ; and having made y-" .--*A.., 1842.] PLANTATION IIOIJISK. •jo:> the necessary aiTiins»enieiits i'or j»itcliiii^' my tent where Captain Jioss observed, ^aUoped oH' to IMan- t.ation House, to pay my respeetw to the <;'overnor, Coh)neI Trehiwney, R.A., who received us witliout formality, introduced us to his family, and mounting; liis horse, accompanied us to Lon^wood, to call on Lieutenant Smvth, in char' enou<>h to make us regret that we were to i)art so soon. Enveloped in darkness, and roi. ^s rather doubtful, we did not return quite so exi)editiously, reaching Plantation House about eight o'clock, and sat down to dinner, nuich, I fear, to the discomfiture of family arrangements. Duty compelling our return that evening, we re- mounted our horses soon after dinner, very much against our own inclinations, and not witliout many expressions of chagrin on the part of our kind host ; and about midnight reached James' Town, where, by the hospitality of our good friend, Mr. Solomon, or rather the friend of the navy, we were comforta- bly housed. Our visit was repeated the day following, and on Monday, the governor, accompanied by his second daughter, chief-justice, (Wild,) and one or two friends, paid a visit to the Sulphur and (Jrecian, very much to our gratiiication. *M(^'^ . ■•].' ll Pi I ,1- in- I' 1 ;! i •J! Ml ASCKNNION. [IHI-J. ( Mir duties ('oiii|»l«'l(', \vr (|iiittt';- |io.siti<)ii, uihI sliortciit*! my stuy ut Ascciision. Our visits of Hunsliinc luivc lu't'ii " It'U iiiin<'(Ml at St. llciiMia, al- i\\{n\^\\ '^ luniicirard IkhihiI,'' wo ('apitulati'd, and but hall' (<.\liausto' morniii<»-, and af- forded us all the late English news. Our o]>eratioiis IH-1'2.] IIOMI'.WAKh ItodNh. • X •J})7 wvw N|i(>(Mlily (•(»iii|>l(ft(>; (>iiil)Ui'k(Ml ull tlM> invulidN uiixioiiHly awiiitiii;; pus- Ha;f(% wr took l(^av<' of tlio Allx-rt on tin? cvciiiii;,' of tlio iHtli of May. AH('(;iisioii allonlH hut little to interest the casual ohs(»rver. ft has lon^' been lauKMl lor the ahumlance of turtle, of which W(^ did not tail to cinliark our eri- en(re the tail of tlu^ tornadoes, an08 AliUIVAL, AM) I'Aih OFI'. [IH4-J. I \ fit i,;l but, iinliko tlic nistoiimry woutlicr of the r('n;l(»n, fouiwl oiirHt'lvcH tiiiitaliscd l)y u iiiiHty culm. TliiM, liowovtT, (lid not loiipf ('oiitimu\ Wo HiiccoLMlod in rojicliin^^ oW hIioiv, and ^ainiii( cholera during this year. The |jrices of foreign manufactures have now found their level in these markets, and the consumption of those articles used by the poorer classes have increased in a wonderful degree both in quantity and quality, and this demand for foreign manufactures (of which " British cottons" of inferior quality bear a prominent part) will naturally go on at an increased ratio. The foreign imports may be classed under the follow- ing heads. British ; consist of calicoes, printed cottons, domestic or grey and power-loom shirtings, linen, and cotton- ' I ! ^ •*! 304 NICARAGUA. ^il V mixed, or unions; linens, muslins, hosiery ; bard earthen- ware, iron, steel, lead, powder, &c. French; consist of silks, printed cottons, cambrics, wine, spirits, jewellery, and fancy articles. United States ; consist of domestic cottons, soap, sperm candles, hardware, spirits of inferior quality, powder, &c. Spanish; paper, silk, ribbon, wine, oil, spirits, &c. Germany: osnaburgs, glassware, wax, furniture, hard- ware, steel, wine, &c. Italy ; paper, oil, silk, liqueurs. Colombia ; cocoa, and straw hats. Perw ; jerga, (a coarse woollen cloth,) tin, spirits, and common sweet wine. Chili ; of sweet wine, pellones, &c. The value of British goods imported may be taken at two-thirds of the whole of the imports. The consumption of French goods, being principally articles of luxury, are chiefly confined to the cities of Guatemala, San Salvador, Granada, &c. German linens, shirtings, and glassware are articles of general consumption. In Spanish goods, with the exception of ribbons, the imports are trivial ; they have given way to those jf France and Italy. The sickness of this year has had considerable in- fluence on the exports. Cochineal and indigo form the principal ; great quantities, particularly of the former, are shipped from the ports on the no/thern side of Honduras. From the ports of the Pacific fifteen hundred scrons have been exported durijig the year to Europe, and the ports of Peru and Chili. (In the interior of both these countries a great quantity of indigo is con- IM"r \1CARAC5UA. :]o:) Slimed.) Hides, horns, sarsaparilla, and balsam, for Europe and the United States, and mahogany, cedar, and sugar, for Chili and Peru. These form the prin- cipal articles of export trade ; which, in proportion to tiie imports, is on the increase. Urazil wood, with which this state as well as Costa Rica abounds, formerly afforded employn)ent to a great number of British vessels. The fall of this article in the home markets has for the present caused it to be but little sought after. In agriculture this state is rapidly improving ; in addition to indigo, sugar, cocoa, wheat, rice, &c., coffee and cotton are now better attended to, but more particu- hiily cotton and indigo. The quality of the former, which is much esteemed and known in the European markets as " green seeded," is an annual plant ; the staple is short, which is overbalanced by its superior fine texture, and it is peculiarly adapted to certain manufactures. New arrangements in the tariff are about to take place, but the present state of revolution must suspend any remark upon this question. The province of Nicaragua heas the advantage of di- versity of clh.iate, the ]>lains in the vicinity of the large towns of Leon, Granada, and Nicaragua, being tropical, and the heights nearing the lakes from the Pacific, as Chocoyos, Matagalpa, and Segovia, being temperate, whilst in the region about Honduras it is generally cold, even for an European. The soil is everywhere fertile, and capable of yielding every species of produce of corresponding temperature. Mines also exist, but are not worked for want of capital and population ; particularly as the plains afford abund- VOL. II. >i^ 300 NICARAGUA. hi ; h'l i •!,: ance of nutriment to the limited population, at very trifling labour. The seasons are periodical, with trifling variation. The summer, or dry season, commences the early part of No- vember, and the winter, o/ wet season, in the latter end of April, or beginning of May. The summer is perfectly dry, at which time commer- cial intercourse is carried on, which, during the winter, particularly the latter end, becomes difficult, on account of the impassability of the roads. It is during the winter that the agriculturist com- mences his labours, and during the months of September and October that the rains are excessive. The climate is A. -^ (i \ 3()b I'ONVRNTION WITH ruil-road from Leon to tlio lake of Managua. This might be effected ; but neither the people, government, or consideration of the return , wil' at present warrant any such step, unless as the i ■' • act of the ^ovornmrnt. No. II. v:mI h\ Convention between His Majesty, and the Emperor of Russia, respecting the free navigation, commerce, and fisheries in the Pacific Ocean, and the limits on the N. W. coast of America. Signed at St. Peters- burgh, February 28tl- 1825. Presented to both houses of Parliament by His Majesty's command, May 1825. His Majesty the king of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, and His Majesty the Empe- ror of all the Russias, being desirous of drawing still closer the ties of good understanding and friendship which unite them, by means of an agreement which may settle, upon the basis of reciprocal convenience, dif- ferent points connected with the commerce, navigation, and fisheries of their subjects on the Pacific Ocean, as well as the limits of their respective possessions on the N. W. coast of Americii, have named plenipotentiaries to conclude a convention for this purpose ; that is to say, TIIK KMPKUOU OF RUfSSIA. 'M)i) Jlis Majesty the King of the United Kingcloui ot'Cireat Britain and Ireland, the Right liunourable Strutt'urd Canning, a member of his said Majcst Mott Honour- able Privy Council, &c.; and His JVT jr ly the Emperor of all the Russias, the Sieur Charles *obert. Count do Nesselrode, his Imperial Majesty's Privy Councillor, a member of the Council of the Empire, Secretary of State for the departnient of Foreign Affairs, &c. , and the Sieur Pierre de Politica, his Imperial Majesty's Coun- cillor of State, &c. ; who, after having communicated to each other their respective full powers, and found these in good and dr i ^^\ have agreed upon and signed the following artirlcs. Art. I. — I, i agised that the respective subjects of the high c.^iit*it^.lng parties shall not be troubled or molested in nny part of the ocean commonly called the Pacific Ocfc. ,< aher in navigating the same, in fishing therein, or in landing at such parts of the coast as shall not have been already occupied, in order to trade with the natives, under the restrictions and conditions speci- fied in the following articles. A IT. II. — In order to j)revent the right of navigating and fishing exercised upon the ocean by subjects of the high contracting parties from becoming the pretext for an illicit commerce, it is agreed that the subjects of his Britannic Majesty shall not land at any place where there may be a Russian establishment without the permission of the governor or commandant; and on the other hand, that Russian subjects shall not land, without permission, at any British establishment o'» the N. W. coast. AuT. III. — The line of demarcation between the pus- 310 CONVF'.NTroN WITH !:* *'. "! sessions of the high contracting parties upon the coast of tlie continent, and the islands of America, to the north west, shall be drawn in the manner following. Commencing from the southernmost j)oint of the island, called Prince of Wales Island, (which lies in the parallel of 54 degrees, 40 minutes, north latitude, and be- tween the UJlst and the 133rd degree of west longitude, meridian of Greenwich,) the said line shall ascend to the north along the channel called Portland Canal, as far as the point of the continent where it strikes the 58th degree of north latitude. From this last-mentioned point the line of demarcation shall follow the summit of the mountains situated parallel to the coast, as far as the point of intersection of 141st degree of west longitude, (of the same meridian,) and finally, from the same point of intersection, the said meridian line of the 141st degree, in its prolongation as far as the Frozen Ocean, shall form the limit between the Russian and British posses- sions on the continent of America to the north-west. Art. IV. — With reference to the line of demarcation laid down in the preceding article it is understood : 1st. That the island called Prince of Wales Is- land shall belong wholly to Russia. 2nd. That whenever the summit of the mountains which extend in a direction parallel to the coast, from the 56th degree of north latitude to the point of intersection of the 141st degree of west longitude, shall prove to be at the distance of more than ten marine leagues from the ocean, the limit between the British jjossessions and the line of coast which is to belong lo Uii^siii, as above meiitiuncd, shall be TIIK KMI'KltOR (f|- ItUSSIA. :mi i'uriiied by a line parallel to the wiiidiiigs of the coust, and which shall never exceed the distance of ten marine leagues therefrom. AitT. V. — It is moreover agreed that no establishtnent 8hall be formed by cither of the two parties within the limits assigned by the two preceding articles to the pos- sessions of the other ; consequently Dritish subjects shall not form any establishment either upon the coast or upon the border of the continent comprised within the limits of the lUissian possessions, or designated in the two preced- ing articles ; and in like manner no establishment shall bo formed by Russian subjects beyond the said limits. Art. VI. — It is understood that the subjects of his Britannic Majesty, from whatever quarter they may ar- rive, either from the ocean or from the interior of the continent, shall for ever enjoy the right of navigating freely and without any hindrance whatever, all the rivers and streams which, in their course to the Pacific Ocean, may cross the line of demarcation upon the line of coast described in article three of the present convention. Art. VII. — It is also understood that for the space of ten years from the signature of the present convention, the vessels of the two powers, or those belonging to their respective subjects, shall mutually be at liberty to fre- quent, without any hindrance whatever, all the inland seas, the giilphs, havens, and creeks on the coast, men- tioned in article three, for the purposes of fishing and of trading with the natives. Art. VIII. — The post of Sitka or Novo Archangelsk, shall be open to the commerce and vessels of British subje(5ts for the space of ten years from the date of the 7 ill 31-J CONVKNTION. t' »' ■ u exchange of the ratiHcutioiis ol" tht; present convention. In the event of an extension oi'tlic term often yearu being jjranted to any other power, the like extension shall be granted also to (ireat Uritain. Aht. IX. — The above-mentioned liberty of commerce shall not apply to the trade in spirituous liquors, in fire- arms, or other arms, gunpowder, or other warlike stores ; the high contracting parties reciprocally engag- ing not to permit the above-mentioned articles to be sold or delivered in any nuinner whatever to the natives of the country. Art, X. — Every British or Hussiun vessel navigating the Pacific Ocean, which may be compelled, by storms or by accident, to take shelter in the ports of the resj)e('tive [)arties, shall be at liberty to refit therein, to provide itself with all necessary stores, and to put to sea again without paying any other than port and lighthouse dues, which shall be the same as those paid by national vessels. In case, however, the imister of such vessel should be under the necessity of disposing of a i)art of his nier- ciiandis*', in order to defray his expenses, he shall con- form himself to the regulations and taritt's of the place where he may have landed. Art. XI. — In every case of complaint on account of an infraction of the articles of the present convention, the civil and military authorities of the high contracting parties, without previously acting or taking any forcible measures, shall make an exact and circumstantial report of the matter to their respective courts, who engt ic to settle the same in a friendly manner, according to the principles of justice. •■ ?r I ( .MAUurKSAM. 3i:{ Akt. XII. — The present convention sliull bo iMtiticd, and the ratiHcutionn shall he cxehun^j^ed at London, witliin the space of six weeks or sooner, if possible. In witness whereof, the respective plenipotentiaries have sig;ned the same, and have utftxed thereto the seals of their arms. Done at St. Petersbiirgh the '2Sth day of February, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and twenfy-Hvc. (Signed) Stuatfohd Canning. Tnii Count ue Nusseluoub. PiEHRE DE Politic A. (L.S.) I > I No. III. MARQUESAS. This group of islands, generally known to navigators of the present day as the " Marquesas," was discovered at two different periods. In the year L'iU.'), the expedition under the eonnnand of Alonza Mendana do Neyva first discovered Santa Christina, or Tahuata; La Dominica, or Ilioaoa ; San Pedro, or Moliotani ; Santa Madalena, or Fatuiva. These received the name of the Marquesas de Mendoza. They were subse([uently visited, and described by Cook, I - » I« ! >r. 1 314 MAKUUKI^AS. i:i iy !!• and the Forsters, in 1774, when Hood's Islund was added to the group. In 1701, an American captain (Ingraham) discovered the islands ofNuhuhiva (or Nuuhiva, abbrev.), Uahuga, or Washington Island, and Uapou, or Adam''s Island. This second discovery of part of the same group received the name of the Washington Islands. In June of the same year, Marchand, a Frenchman, also claimed the discovery of the latter portion, but the palm has been generally awarded to Ingraham. Lieut. Hergest, in command of the Daidalus, part of the expedition under Captain Vancouver, visited them in 1792, and fancying them undiscovered, named them as follows — Nuhuhiva, Sir Henry Martin's Island ; Ua- huga, Riou's Island ; and Uapou, Trevenon's Island. He also added Hergest's Rocks, and the northernmost, or Robert's Island, at tluat period uninhabited. These names have been indiscriminately in use amongst subsequent navigators, but the whole group is generally recognised as the Mendana Archipelago, or " The Mar- cpiesas." There is every reason to believe that the whole group was known to the earlier Paumotu navigators ; as Tupia, the native of Ulietea, who embarked with Cook, intend- ing to visit England, furnished the data from memory, for many of the later discoveries, and in his north-east group, evidently intended for the Marquesas, distinctly afforded the names of ten, three of which agree witii The subsequent discoveries. It is probable that upon ii I'loser examination all could be traced, as Vaitaliu is merely the name of one of the hat/s of Tahuata (Santa ( ' ristina.) h 'f I MAIUiUESAS. :nr) From the data thus furnished, a chart was constructed by Sir J. Banks, during Cook's first voyage, and it was not until the year 1774, in liis second, that he knew any other names than those given by Mendana.* It appears strange, however, that both Cook and Forster, liaving discovered the coincidence in the five islands, should not have attempted nome westerly examination in 1774. The population of the whole group, as at present com- puted by the resident French and English missionaries, amounts to ]5,()(M). In 1774, Forster computed those in- habiting the five islands only at 100,000 ! and later au- thorities have reduced the whole group to 40,000, 1 place great reliance on the missionary statement. Our visit confines us, of course, to the island of Nuhn- hiva and Port Anna Maria of Hergest, but it is never- theless incumbent on me to state all I hear, leaving it to my readers to draw their own inferences. Much of our information has been derived from the assistance of the British missionary, Mr. Tiiom))Son, as well as from ques- tions put to the native chiefs through our pilot. I am also aware that these people have been described by abler pens, and under greater advantages, perhaps, than our short visit and the nature of our occupations would seem to permit. It is nevertheless necessary to register our remarks ; we may not see with the eyes ' .' others — important changes may have occurred — and, moreover, to men of habits of investigation many new features may present themselves. Unfortunately, the volumes of for- mer navigators were not in our possession, to enable us ♦ Voic R. Forsltr, Obb. I'liy. Gvo^., Nat. Hist., &c. I ! 810 iMAKUlIKSAS. M fr(^ to draw stricter coinparisoiis; but, on the other hand, they eonhl not bins our observations. I cannot, however, exactly coincide with the suniniaiy character given in the five lines of the Geographical Encyclopsedia, uidess indeed they are to apply to the Polynesian Islands, or savages in general. That de scription comprises in five words — bold, ferocious, un- chaste, fiendly, and bloodthirsty. Upon noTie of these charges do 1 intend to defend them, although circumstances ati'orded nie, perhaps, a better ojiportunity of seeing them nearer their own cha- racters than those who have preceded me. 1 have already alluded to the warlike dispositions ex- hibited Jit the period of my arrival. 1 was, indeed, any- thing but a welcome guest; yet, 1 imnuidiately threw myself amongst them, and during my endeavours to stop the disj)osition to battle, luid an op[)ortunity of watching for those nudignant jmssions in their leaders which could justify such harsh epithets. NN'hat was the reply of the king to my (picstion — If you arc victorious what is your final intention ? " To remove part of the Taioa people to this valley, and place j)art of mine there." Tliis needs no comment. On the other hand, let us look to the enemy at Taioa Bay. W hat was their reply to our mission { It was found, indeed, that they j)resented a su|»erior race, \U)l demoralized by the visits of whale ships, nor excited by intoxicating liipiors, kava, or priestly instigation. They calmly awaited their threatened invatiion, but without any hatred to their enemies. Their reply was, " That they would gladly receive tlie king ' Moana ' as a friend. » MAK(|II|:SAS. • >i — •J I i and feast liini, hut not as their chief: at tlie same time they wouhl defend their vaHey with vifjfonr." When war has once commenced, '* and foe meets foe," who shall decide npon what is hrutal or blood-thirsty? Look not too closely into the battle field of Europe, or of civilized cond)atants. Cruelty, the inherent type of every savage, will he exercised according to the custom of the country, and until these jieople bocouie civili/od, their nature will he; savage. I think, however, that the generality of visitors ascribe less of the savage to this group than elsewhere ; and a case in |)oint, I think, wi" bear this out. In the case of the captain and mate of a whaler, not nuiny years since cut off by the natives in Comptroller's Hay, the Teii, said to be the most ferocious on the island, seldom communi- cating with their neighbours, and never with foreigners, — how did tlu'y act? They anmsed themselves by excit- ing their fears. Having made a fire sufficiently large to bake them, a hog was substituted, which, when cooked, they were invited to partake of. They were afterwards ransomed. On no other island would their lives have been saved. Every navigator has agreed in describing the men as well-formed, active, and powerful. Their muscles are beautifully outlined, and the whole frame presents a roundness, fulness, and firmness, unusual in the Pacific. They resemble the Moors of the Morocco coast in this respect. Their gait and carriage is j)articularly erect, easy, and independent — proud, I should say ; reminding one of the high-bred horse. So much do they feel this superiority over visitors, that they ridicule the gait of ,.ji . t^i i 11 rf ■ i' I; f 1 !. » < 1 N s :{|s MAIiUlKNAS. Europeans. The expression of llie eye is keen, but in- vites, or rtlniost demands, friendship : no strnnper can resist tlic extended hand and paze of the better class, without bein<^ wanting in u^ood feelinji^. Once adopted as a friend, or nain(?s exchanged, your interests are closely watched, and carried to a higher pitch of disinterested- ness, than can be found amongst the so much extolled Tahitans. There is evidently a great variety in the breed, the hue varying from that of a tanned European to the darkest West Indian. Their hair is long, flowing, or oirly, and genersilly dark. They are tattooed to the extreme, but I do not think so delicately or beautifiilly as I have noticed at Tahiti. Plere it is almost in nuisses of bluish black, which gives a darker hue to the appearance ; more war- like but less ornamental. They wear nothing but the custonuiry maro round the loins, similar to all the Poly- nesians. When dressed for war thoy are truly ridi- culous. The head is cumbered with a scull-cap of heavy net- work, ornamented with the jiniibo bead and mother-of- pearl jdates, and surmounted by a set of fan-plumes of cock's feathers, which form a semicircle, of which the extremes of the shoulders form the diameter ; around the neck a string of heavy whale teeth,* with the points pro- jecting forward. Above the maro on the waist a profu- sion of tappa; in the right hand a umsket, and in the left the large ^Marquesan fan. How they are to fight thus rigged is incomprehensible. * Similar ornninent worn at the Feejefs. MAIUilKSAS. DW) Three ('rieiitlsof'tli(M|iic'e!i dowuger, wisliiug to surprise mc, suddenly darted into luy path, thus accoutred. It is probable they thought to startle nie, but it was too ridi- culous to jreate anytliing beyond laughter. They arc indolent in the extreme. Their wants are few, and supplied, in a great measure, by nature. With the exception of the cultivation of yams, plantains, and the bread fruit, their time is wholly devoted to ease and enjoyment. Occasionally they fish, but to little extent. Their canoes are very indifferent ; far inferior to those of any other islands where trees of suflicient growth abound for their structure. On my first arrival I did not experience much civility from the king, high priest, or prime minister. Their dislike was natural. I had lowered them much, by denying any hoj)e of aid, in force or countenance, from (ireat J3ritain, or any civilized nation. However, they gradually found their rambles terminate at my tent; and several hogs and presents of fruit at length oozed out. We were much disappointed, however, in general sup- plies of this nature, as nothing but muskets would be taken in exchange. Possibly a stronger political feeling kept these three from openly exli liting their friendship. The queen dow- ager was averse the war ; her party opposed it, and she was known to 1 uiy great ally. They even asserted that she had sent th<' enemy powder and arms, which I had furnished. The femn'^ >art of the creation have generally been extolled as ihv finest models in the world. The first discoverers described them as possessing regular fea- :\'2i) MAKUUKHAS. ',h \\\ If ! * liiros, line IiiukIh, bciuililul Cccl, of clc^iuit slalnro; jiikI, iiKMTovcr, Miir|)assiii<;' tli(> most licaiitit'iil women of liimii. Wlial. liima may have rxliiliitccl in ir)!)') we caiiiiut exactly arrive at; but, at the ju'esent day, the ('om|)arison will not hear re|M>titioii. We wen? not fortunate* enoii(>;h to see any of these extraordinary heau- lies. Their features are r<'<;"uhir, cum|dexion ^o(mI, tntly witncssjMl more than we did. None of the extraordinary advances or impro- prieties dialled ap;ainst them were «lisplayed. They are also oharii'ed with want of affection or attachment. Of course we are not in a condition to !ief;'ative this charj;e ; but I should, from ])ersonal observation, sus|)ect this to be unfounded. In the instance of the queen dowa;;er, she pretended, at all events, to doat on the memory of Com- modore PoruM- ; displayed his presents anl lt(!t\v<<(>ii two I'^ii^lisli r(!HMj(MitH, tin, ni tranHplantcd to Honic ot those islands, or to the Anuirican continent. Their (Irews is very Hiniple. A few foMn of native cloth ronnd tin; waist form a petticoat ; and a kind of shawl of similar mat(;rial, fjfracefnlly passfid ohrKpndy across the body, compl(!tes their co,->tnnn.'. They ar(! j)articii- larly foi: I :>f hathinjj; ; and in this respect exliihitcd a proof ot ;.'• y:.'i;sty, by selectin}^ nnfreipiented Hp(»ls. There are alwjiys exceptions. One great pecniiarity the fcnnales enjoy ai these islands is, their freedom from danger in war. They are consi- dered an Hags of truce, particularly chi(;f women; and can pass from side to side at |)leasnre. They are not subject to the exemption of eating wit)i the males, as forme/ly in Tahiti and the Sandwich islamis. With r(!spect to their reliyrious amelioration, I much fear that the day is yet distant when they will be brought into comparisoti with Tahiti. There is no power to lead, no king to command ; and they are too impatient of resrtaint to listen to the missionaries. vol.. II. T t I H. I; :i'2'2 iMARQl'KSAS. Aiiotlior strong reuson against any iiiiportant nimnge, is tlieir original loose worsliip of images. Had they been accustomed to place faith in the heathen worship, as in other islands, their minds might have been directed to a more powerful source to which they should address their prayers. f h I II 'I it i W- id fl"; i, I; I i i;' 1 J I til |i \ :]'j:{ No. IV.— K U I K A 11 I. Articles mndc and aj^rced on nt Honolulu, Islnnd of Onhu, this 16tlidiiy ofXov. IH.Mi. Art. h English subjects shall be permitted to come with their vessels and property of whatever kind to the Sand- wich Islands ; they shall also be permitted to reside therein as lon^j; as they conform to the laws of these Islands, and to build houses and warehouse for their merchandize with the consent of the King, and good friendship shall continue be- tween the subjects of both countries, Great Britain and the Sandwich Islands. Art. 2nd. English subjects resident at the Sandwich Is- lands are at liberty to go to their own country or elsewhere, either in their own or any other vessel, they may dispose of their effect'i, enclosures, houses, &c., with the previous know- ledge of the King, and take the value with them without any impediment whatever. The land on which houses are built is the property of the King, He mnti olelo keia i hoopon- oponoia'i a i hoopaaia'i ma Honolulu ma ka Mokn Oahu i ka la umikumamaono o No- vemaba, IH.'IG. Paitku 1. E aeia mai ko Enelani man kanaka e hele mai i ko Hawaii pae ainn me ko lakou man moku a ine ko lakou waiwai, o kela waiwai o keia waiwai ; e aeia mai hoi lakou e noho ilaila, i like no ka loihi o k» manawa e noho pono ai malalo o ke kanawai, a e kuku- hi hale c noho ai a me nu hale e main ai ko Inkou wai- wai, ke ac mai ke alii ; a e mau ke kiiikahi maikai ma- waena o na ainu o Deritania Nui laua me na aina o Hawaii nei. Pauku 2. He mea pono i na kanaka o Enelani e noho ana ma Ilav aii nei e hele i ko lakou aina, a i na wahi c ac iluna 0 ko lakou mau moku a iluna o na moku e ae paha ; e hiki ia lakou ke kuai lilo aku i ko lak< '• waiwai, na pahale, na hale u me ia nica ac ia mea ae, ke lohe i- k? nlii, a e lawe pu me lakou i ka dala o ia mau mea, aole mea iki e kea- kea ai. Aka o ka lejio malaln 3lM KUIKAIII. ■ ! ! i but tlic Kiii^ shall Imve no uu- thority t() destroy the houses, or in niiy way injure the pro- perty of any IJritisli subject. Art. lird. When an Eng- lish subje(;t dies on the Sand- wieh Islands, his effects shall not be searched or touched by any of the (Jovernorsor Chiefs, but shall be delivered into the hands of his executors, or heirs if present, but if no heir or executor appear, the (Consul or his agent shall be executor of the sanu' : if iiuy debts were owing to the deceased, the (jo- veruor of the place shall assist and do all in his power to coui- pel the debtors to pay their debts to the heir or executor, or the Consul, in case no heir or executor apj)eurs, and the Consul is to inform tin King of the death of every British subject leaving property upon the Sandwich Islands. li K K VMIMIAMKIIA lir. Ei». Uv!risi:M,, Captain of 11. IJ. Majesty's ship, Actt'on. ibo i kukiduia'i na hale no kc alii ia, aole nae e hiki i ke iilii ke wawahi i na hale a c liana hewa iki i ka waiwai a ke- kalii kanaka o Heritaiiia. Paiku 3. A i nuike kekahi kanaka o Knelani nui ko Ila- Willi |iae aina, aole e huliia kona man waiwai, aole hoi e hoopaia e kekahi o na Kiaaina a me na'lii, aka e haawiia ' ka lima o na niea ana i kauoha ai a i kona man hooilina paha, ilia palia lakou maanei, a i otc ikea ka hooilina ao ka mea i kaiiohaia ai ])aha, alaila e lilo ke Konakcle a o kona hope palia i niea nana e hoopono- poiwi nni ia mea ; a ina he man aie ka kekahi i ka mea i make aku la, e kokuake Kiaaina o ia wahi, a e koi aku,ke hiki ia ia, i na mea aie e hookiui i ka lakou mau aie i ka Hooilina a i ka mea i kauohaia'i palm, a i ole ikea ka Hooilina a o ka mea i kauuhaia'i paha, alaila e ukuia'i ike Konakelc. A na ke Koua- kele e hui aku i kc alii i ka nuike ana o na kanaka lieri- tania a pan, nona na waiwai c wuiho ana nui keia pac aina. Kamkiiamuua III. Eu. IIUSSKLL. THE EEGIONS OP VEGETATION ; HRINO AN ANALYSIS OF TUF, DlSTIinirTrON OF VKGFTARLK FORMS DVKII TirF SCIIFACK OF TtfK (i^OHK IN CONNKXION WITH CLIMATE A.m PHYSICAL AGENTS. BY RICHARD BRINSLEY HINDS, Esq. BUROON, R. N. ATT.V CITED TO TIIK EXPEDITION. Y \i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) A A 4. fA f/. 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^128 |2.5 ■ 50 ■'^™ !■■■ ■^ 1^ III 2.2 «s — IIII2.0 III 1.8 1-4 11.6 ^ <^ n ^a # ^ / >^ '/ /# Phot^phic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. US8Q (716) 872-4503 sv i ■f 1 ■if *'r^( iljM H'K'i ! ;J 'f * « ADVERTISEMENT. Her Majesty's ship Sulphur was the school in which I more particularly studied geographic botany. Precon- ceived views, and results drawn from the perusal of the writings of scientific travellers, were here practically tested. Her extensive voyage, and rapid transition from one portion of land to another, afforded rich and most favourable sources of comparison. With a bias towards the subject, it was an occupation of delight to develope the principles of the study, and to apply them to a result. Climate is the basis on which the earliest data must be founded, and with the liberal use of instruments, observa- tions on temperature and humidity were in time col- lected. These, with observations on the physical condi- tion of the surface, furnish us with many of the circum- stances which govern the distribution of the fiora of the world. What I have accomplished under these heads has been collected together, and form the subject of a lengthened paper, which, through the liberality of the proprietors of the Annals of Natural History, has been already published. Naturally following the consideration of physical agents, were the subjects of original distribu- tion, amount, relative proportion to space, and similar de- tails ; but which I have not yet ventured to make public. 1 ,; I ; It' 326 ADVERTISEMENT. I i The result of these investigations was the develope- ment of regions of vegetation, and which had their origin and stability in previously established views. At the same time, I do not insist that these are natural, but that taken in their entireness, they present in situations cir- cumstances of remarkable individuality. In the mean- time they will be found eminently useful in studying the features of vegetation, and more particularly in leading the subject to the naturalization of plants — the great end and aim of geographic botany. My views respecting these regions have been more fully dwelt on in Sir W. J. Hooker's Journal of Botany for June 1842, and our space here does not permit me to enter on these ti a greater length. It is enough to add that these regions are the results of observations ma- tured during the voyage, and that with fourteen of them I have been practically acquainted. R. B. H. Vi I'l develope- heir origin 3. At the al, but that jations cir- the inean- tudying the \f in leading 16 great end been more I of Botany ermit n»e to lOugh to add rvations nia- en of thein I R. B. H. C 0 N T l?: N T S. AMERICA, N 1. The Greenland region II. The North-West America region III. The Canada region IV. The Iroquois region V. The California region VI. The Prairie region VII. The Chihuahua region VIII. The Central America region IX. The Mexico Alpine region X. The West India region AMERICA, SOUTH XI. The Oronoco region XII. The Andes region XIII. The Amazon region . XIV. The Paraguay region XV. The Chili and Peru region XVI. The Pampas region XVII. The Patagonia region AUSTRALIA. XVIII. The Polynesia region . XIX. The Papua or New Guinea region XX. The Australia Trojnc region XXI. The New South Wales region XXII. The West Australia region . XXIII. The Van Diemen's Ijand region XXIV. The New Zealand region ORTII. Pafio 329 :i3l 3.17 345 34 S 350 351 354 35G 360 362 364 368 370 372 375 370 384 386 388 392 393 39'> 328 CONTENTS. AFRICA. t; I ;.i i Page. XXV. The South Africa region :i96 XXVI. The Mozambique region 401 XXVII. The Madagascar region 402 XXVIII. ITie West Africa region 403 XXIX. The Canary Islands region 40.'i XXX. The Barbary region . . . . 409 XXXI. The Nile region .... 411 XXXII. The Asia Minor region 414 XXXIII. The Arabia region 417 XXXIV. The Tartary region 418 XXXV. The Siberia region 419 XXXVI. Tlie Japan region 422 XXXVII. The China region 424 XXXVIII. The Birmah region 430 XXXIX. The Malaisia region 431 XL. ITie Hindostan region 433 XLI. The Himmaleh region 436 EUROPE. XLII. The Spain region 439 XLIII. The Italy region . . , . 443 XLIV. The Danube region 445 XLV. The Alps region .... 447 XLVI. ITie Central Europe region 450 XLVII. The Volga region 455 XLVIIl. The Ocean region 457 [n i ',) THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. i I.—THE GREENLAND REGION. Extent. — An important portion of the northern hemi- sphere is occupied by a vegetation entirely without trees, and covering a dreary, bleak, inhospitable surface, hardly capable, even in the most favoured spots, of any cultiva- tion. Greenland composes much of this, and the region further comprises that part of America to the north of a line commencing at Hudson's Bay in 60° N. lat., thence stretching to 68° at the Mackenzie river, and continued to Behring's Straits ; with that part of Siberia to the north of 65°, and Iceland, Spitzbergen, and Melville island. The natural course of this line is with the forest, obeying its sinuosities and sweeps, and will be found to enclose a region of some peculiarities. The northern limit of course only ceases with the vegetation. Ph ysicAL Characters. — The surface is usually extremely rocky and rugged, destitute of soil, and maintaining its flora in sheltered valleys and ravintn. It is now a re- tjao TlIK Rl-XJKJNS Ol' VKOK'I'ATION. ii I '''§ i'\I, cc'ivetl fact, tlint all those plants inutiutlly existing- in northern parts of Europe and America are found in this region ; hence it seems to have heen a region of trims- mission, and to have been eminently active in supplying the northern parts of these two portions of the globe with many ])lants in common. Climate. — There are but two seasons, summer and winter, which succeed each other with surj)rising rapidity. The latter is severe and protracted, and occupies a large portion of the year; summer suddenly follows on its decline, and from the now protracted presence of the sun much heat is accumulated. The activity of the vegetation would appear to be in proportion to the duration and com- pleteness of its dormant condition, and is very chiiracte- ristic. In Greenland, the range of the thermometer during the year is from 84° to — 48", or 132 degrees. Flora. — Shrubs compose the larger vegetation ; they are not the large bushy plants known as such in tempe- rate and warm climates, but are of d warf stature, and appear to be struggling against the elements to attain that state which nature has destined them to assume; thus some of them are only a few inches high ; still they are numerous, and have sometimes showy flowers with brilliant colours. Leguminosffi, umbellifer8e,caryophylletB, and cruciferai, have a smaller share in the vegetation than might be expected ; bnt ranunculaceee, saxifrageaj, and ericaceae, hold a more important station, and the propor- tion of gramineae has greatly increased. It is, how- ever, among cellulares that the greatest change is mani- fest, particularly in niusci. Greenland has a flora of 403 species, of which 172 are phenogaraous, and 23 1 cryptogamous. These are distributed among 137 genera and 45 natural families. On analysis, the phenogamous species are found to be in juoportion NORTII-WKST AMERICA KWMON. 331 to the genus as 2 to 1, the cryptoganms us 45 to 1 ; taking the whole flora, the value of the genus is 2-9, of the natural family 13 ; of the phenogamous genus 2, of the cryptoganious 4*5 ; of the phenogamous family 2'3, of the crytogaraous 7*3. The genera have few species compared with Iceland ; saxifraga, draba, ranunculus stellaria, cerastium, epilobium, pedicularis, criophorum, juncus, carex, and salix, being the only phenogamous genera with more than three species. There are no trees; pyrus aucuparia reaches Gl° as a small shrub, and about a dozen species are peculiar. Iceland, situated between 63*' and 68" N. lat,, has 652 species. Of these, 359 are phenogamous, and 293 crypto- gamous. Umbelliferae constitute 109th part, leguminosie 81st, crucifersB 40th, compositse 33rd, andgramineoe 15th. The most numerous phenogamous genera are salix, saxi- fragea, ranunculus, gentiana, veronica, potamogeton, plantago, epilobium, rumex, polygonum, geranium, hieraceum, gnaphalium, orchis, carex, juncus, agrostis, aira, poa, festuca. MeUille island, in 75" N. hit., has 116 species distri- buted between 22 families ; or of phenogamous plants 67, and of cryptogamous 49, A few of the species are not found elsewhere, and it may have a genus of its own, at present an unsettled point. Relations. — The most interesting are with the three upper regions of alpine vegetation, where many of its characteristic features reappear. II.— THE NORTH-WEST AMERICA REGION. Extent. — The rocky mountains and Pacific Ocean on the east and west, and 68" N. lat., and the Columbia river to the north and south, enclose this region. 8 ■3 n:v2 Till-; KKOIONS Ol' VKOKTATION. Physical Cm All ACTEHs. — Tlicsuifuce is irregular, consist- ing entirely of'uiouiitain and valley, without the leuat pre- tensions to plain ; the former composed chieHy of primi- tive rocks, among which granite is abundant, (|uart/ is sometimes seen, and rarely, I believe, limestone. The soil is often rich, from the great accumulation and rapid decomposition of vegetable remains. Climate. — Being freely exposed to winds from the ocean, and westerly w inds prevailing, the climate is con- siderably modified. Compared with Europe, it is far cooler for the latitude, and with the opposite coast with- out those extremes so common there. It is, however, much more moist than either, and the rainy days are very frequent. In 56" N. lat., the mean temperature has been ascertained to be 45"5, and the range of the year from 2"3 to 81°9. Only thirty-seven really clear and fine days were experienced, on forty-six snow fell, and on the rest more or less rain. This was at Sitka, or New Archangel. At the Columbia river in 4G° N. lat., being the southern limit, and with an interval from the above of ten degrees, the mean-temperature is 54°, the annual range from 18° to 92", number of rainy days 157, the quantity of rain 536 inches, and snow is rarely seen. Flora. — Though the inequalities of the surface are great, soil is abundant, and the investing vegetation vigo- rous. The constant moisture favours premature decay? and thus the trees are early undermined, and falling from their ranks in the forest, cover the ground in vast num- bers. It is not easy to conceive how thickly the surface is crowded with these, unless by recalling something like the vast accumulations of the coal measures. Within the tropics I have never seen anything equal to the scene of devastation the northern part of this region presents ; trunks of trees, of great length and clear of branches. \i NORTII-WKS " AMKRFCA RE(;i(JN. []\V.i are seen on all sides strewed in tiers, and covered with a dense agamic vegetation. It would often seem that they were unable to attain a good old age, as, always exposed to moisture from the repeated rains, they have yielded to its influence immediately that period of life arrived when the activity of vegetation diuiinishes. liere everything is moist, the soil is completely saturated, mosses and lichens are in their liveliest vigour, and much of tlie surface is swampy. Tracing the regions from Prince William's Sound in fiJ north latitude to the east, and then to the south, the whole will be found to be covered with one vast forest. It extends to the north as far as the boundary line, and to the south, through several degrees of latitude, to the Columbia river, where a sudden change occurs, and which is a very decided line of demarkation between this and the California region. Returning for a moment to Prince William's Sound, a tongue of land stretches from it to Oonalaskaand the other islands of the Aleutian chain, over which there is no forest, and the only ap- proach to trees is a few stunted spruces in the sheltered valleys. But the vegetation is very luxuriant, and to- wards the close of summer the roses, willows, and lupins form a dense mass not easy to penetrate. At this time, on the sides of the lower mountains, sustaining towards their summits irregular patches of snow, there is a rich- ness and quiet beauty about the flora particularly attrac- tive, for many of the flowers are showy, and their colours clear and brilliant. Here especially are mimulus iuteus, geranium eriostemon, lupinus nootkatensis, making the surface quite blue with its flowers, epilobium latifolium, polemonium humile, and some ferns and grasses, many of the latter of which are in common with Europe. Elsewhere the forest, though dense, consists of but few h u '<: ♦ ■ HI :{:{4 TIIK UKOIONS OF VF.OETATION. species; abios has three, whicli, with (Mipressiis tliyoides, constitute all the larger trees, whilst some sinaller arc contributed by crutu-gus, salix, ccrasus, bctula, and to the south diospyros. The undergrowth of shrubs is so extremely luxuriant, that it a|)pear8 a chief characteristic, and, regardless of the shade of the forest, flourishes in great vigour. These shrubs are chiefly the species of vaccinium, uicn- ziesia, rubus, and ribes, which, though numerous in spe- cies, have a multitude of individuals. Towards the south, lonicera involucrata, mahonia glumacea, symphoriu racemosa, gautheria shallon are superadded, and par- ticularly aspidium nmnitum, a handsome fern, very social, and covering portions of the surface to the ex- clusion of others. Another peculiarity is, that though some of the genera appear through several degrees of latitude, they are continuer' by new species ; thus ribes, rubus, rosa, and lupinus, are seen everywhere in the re- gion, yet each species had but a small range, and is im- mediately succeeded by another. Relations. — Two plants are common which are emi- nently distinguished for their large foliage, and as members of families of a warmer climate ; panax hor- ridum, a fine shrub with large showy leaves, upwards of a foot in length, has a range of growth from 45'^ to 61" north latitude ; and dracontium camtschaticum, with a very different habit, spreading its broad leaves over the surface, on the under side of which is usually a small hairy helix, abounds in moist situations from 61° north latitude to the Columbia River, or 46''19'. Mimulus guttatus has a wide habitat, extending from 59" 30' north latitude to 37° in California. The herbaceous plants are of families common to these latitudes, though both cruciferae and umbelliferje are scarce, and the genera are ^n: I ». ' .'»< Till-: CANADA UK(iI()N. :]n:. Hituilar to llio Eiiropouti with few exceptions. Tlio southern pnrtnnxes but feebly with the CaliCornirt re"-iou, and the features are preserved singularly intact even to the banks of tiie Columbia. Here (piercus coninnMices with many others, ubies ceases sudthnily, and pinus partly supplies its place, nor disappearing from tlu? elevated lands till it arrives in the vicinity of Panama. A collection of plants from its northern part contained abotit one half common with the north of Europe, and a similar numl)er with Sil>eria. m.-TlIE CANADA JtEGION. ExTKNT. — To the west the Rocky Mountains, and to the east the Atlantic Ocean ; in the south a line commencing on tlie coast in 44" north latitude, thence to the margin of Lake Erie and to the Mississippi, tiien taking a north, and afterwards a north-west direction by the nortli branch of the Saskatchawan river to the Rocky Mountains, Its northern outline is irregular, being determined by the forest ; towards lluuson's Bay it crosses the country in GO" north hatitude ; but attains a higher latitude to the west, till it reaches GS", near the Mackenzie River. Physical Characters. — Much of this surface is covered with forest. There are no important mountain chains, though smaller ranges separatt, several large plains. These have generally a fruitful alluvial soil, but wild rocky districts are not uncommon, too dreary and inhospitable to support a vigorous vegetation. The primary moun- tains of the Iroquois region pass its southern boundary, and separate some plains in the vicinity of the lakes and the St. Lawrence, the luxuriant fertility of which, 1 m 11 .. 336 THE RECilONS OF VEGETATION. according to Murray, is almost unsurpassed, and whose characteristics are limestone rocks, waters highly charged with calcareous matter, and copious deposits of gypsum and marl. Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and the is- lands, form an important portion of the region. Here granite, clay-stone, sandstone, and limestone, constitute the basis on which the soil reposes. In Prince Edward's Island the soil is fertile, and though occasional masses of granite occur, scarcely a stone or pebble is to be seen ; sandstone is the basis of the island, and clay abounds. In Newfoundland the surface is more rocky, secondary formations prevail, with coal and various sandstones. Of Labrador little more is known than that it is covered with a vast forest, and is unusually inclement for the latitude. Climate. — This varies considerably, but is every- where severe for the latitude. Like the United States the extremes of temperature are intense, and with the anomaly that the seasons of Lower Canada run into greater extremes thctn Upper Canada, or that the range is greater near the sea than inland. Summer and winter succeed each other so rapidly, that spring and autumn are not distinguishable. About the close of October, sharp frosts commence, heavy falls of sleet and snow occur in November, and this state of the weather prevails till the middle or end of December, when it rapidly yields to a clear sky and a frosty atmosphere, which continue till nearly the end of March. A rapid change now takes place ; a fervid sun bursts forth, which melt- ing the snows and unlocking the frozen streams, vegeta- tion appears with magic haste, and every spot is beau- tiful and green with verdure. From May to September inclusive, a warm and oppressive summer prevails. Flora. — Unlike the neighbouring Iroquois region, the TIIK IROQUOIS REGION. 337 forest offers little variety in its trees, these being cluofly spruces, as abies ulba, a. nigra, a. canadensis, with occasionally thuja occidentalis, pinus resinosa, and larix niicrocarpa. Mixed v.itli these are several trees with deciduous leaves, but they do not extend quite so far north, nor so completely enter into the composition of the ibrest ; qnercus auibigua, betula papyracea, h. lenta, b. excelsa, ])0])ulus balsamifera, p. treniuloides, p. grandidentata; and with limits something more southern, acer saccharinum, a. rubrum, fai^ns ferru- ginea, ulnnis amerienna. A close compact forest is unfavourable to the humbler vegetation, and thus there is no great variety ; and in the present instance is more particularly characterised by shrubs of ccrasus, sambucus, viburnum, salix, rhodora, sedum, kalmia, ribes, rubus, rosa, and araelanchier. Relations. — Among the herbnceous plants are many peculiar species, but almost always of genera widely diffused over other parts of the continent or of Europe. About half-a-dozen genera only seem peculiar. Wher- ever, during a portion of the year, the climate possesses considerable warmth, there will generally be found re- presentatives of forms belonging more abundantly to warmer latitudes ; here, accordingly, are met with two species of panax, two of aralia, and dracaena borealis. IV.— THIi IROQUOIS REGION. Extent. — I have attempted, in the name of this region, to connect the memory of the brave Indians with the magnificent forests they once claimed as theii* own. The word was applied collectively to several tribes of North Americans, well krown in their day as the Six Nations, vol.. ir. A W t ' ^ I. i fl 338 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. and closely concerned in the early political transactions of this country. They were the admiration of their co- temporaries, but nothing now remains of them, unless sufficient of their history to adorn a tale. Perhaps a few solitary descendants may be traced out, far from the land of their fathers, but no more. The forests them- selves are disappearing under the thrift and industry of their greatest enemy, the white man ; the trees that once sheltered the Indian lodge are failing beneath the axe of the regenerator ; and the trackless forest, so often traversed by the skilful hunter and dauntless war- rior, is now covered with corn-fields, canals, and rail- roads. The boundary of this region commences on the coast of the Atlantic in 44" north latitude, and proceeds, just skirting the southern margin of Lake Erie, onward to the Mississippi. It now continues along the edge of the forest on its w estern shore, approaching it more closely at its mouth than in its northern course ; and afterwards crossing Florida in 27° north latitude, with the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean, it incloses an irregular parallelogram of about 690,000 square miles. Physical Characters. — This surface is unequally di- vided by the Alleghany mountains, which slope towards the Atlantic and the Mississippi. The latter has also a gra- d"al and regular ascent from the Gulf of Mexico to the lakes of Canada, of 1,200 feet. Both of these plains abound in a fruitful soil wherever the forest has been removed, but superior fertility and excellence belongs to that between the mountains and the Mississippi. The mountain system, though attaining no great elevation, has a length of 1,200 miles, and occupies a belt of about one hundred, of which two-thirds are estimated to consist of valleys. It traverses the region obliquely from north- ^iv-liii THE IROQUOIS REGION. 339 east to south-west, and has an average height of between 2,000 to 3,000 feet, the highest summits never exceeding the latter. There are elsewhere some loftier elevations, Mount Washington being 6,428 feet, and the Black Mountain in Carolina 6,476 feet. The Alleghanies are divided into four distinct ridges, and are chiefly composed of primary stratified rocks. This stratification is very generally prevalent, and one of its effects is visible in the numerous cascades, falls, and rapids of the rivers. Gneiss, granite, sienite, and hornblende are frequent in the northern parts, and are equally the basis of the plains as of the mountains. Towards the south the granitic rocks in a great measure disappear, and are supplanted by an extensive limestone formation. Much of the surface of the plain between the mountains and the Atlantic is covered by sand, which in many instances is far more productive than might be imagined, from, it is supposed, a submersion to which it was formerly exposed. There are likewise extensive patches of marsh or moist meadow land, and nearer the sea occasionally inundated districts. Climate. — With so wide an extent of latitude, there will be much difference in the climate. Generally it may be called a climate of extremes, particularly in the northern part, where this feature is experienced in greatest force. The vicissitudes are great, and accom- plished with much rapidity; the extreme of heat and cold even in a single day is immense, and it has been known to be 4P ; 28° is mentioned as common. After the hottest days, the nights m y be piercingly cold. An American writer has summed up a detail of his climate by observing, that in spring it has the moisture of Britain, in summer the fervid heats of Africa, in June the bland warmth of Italy, in winter the snows of Norway and z 2 1: 1 : 1 '1 y i ' : 1 ' I i f', . 1 HI If: ; t ; & .t :mo THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. the ice of Holland, the tempestuous winds of the West Indies, and in all seasons the variable weather of Great Britain. Such a combination is not likely to be favour- able to the human race, but under it the vegetation is ndoubtedly varied and luxuriant. Plants love a warm atmosj)here, especially if combined with brilliancy of the sun's rays ; and a succeeding cold season, instead of proving hurtful, seems rather to prej)are th^m to expand in the coming summer with unusual vigour. Flora. — A vast impervious forest once covered the whole eastern part of North America. Towards the north it commenced around the shores of Hudson's Bay, reaching as far as 60"; and stretched towards the south in one broad mass, bounded on one side by the Atlantic Ocean, and on the other by the Mississippi, the father of rivers. It did not quite conhne itself to the east side, but crossing the river, continued down its west bank in a belt of fifty or a hundred miles broad. The only interrup- tions throughout its extent were occasioned by two in- roads of prairie, mentioned under that region. To the south it received no check till it arrived on the margins of the Mexican Sea. A portion of this forest comprises the present region. Beyond the northern boundary of the latter the forest consists of but few species, but to its south a new state of things prevails ; for many new and extensive genera now contribute their species, and bestow an unrivalled variety. One hundred and fifty distinct kinds of trees are knovvn, of which eighty attain an height upwards of sixty feet. Of these the most peculiar to the region are the various carya, nyssa, liriodendron, taxo- dium, robinia, and gymnocladus. A small part only of this forest has been removed ; but where this has haj»- pened a material change has been produced in the vegetation. Its original herbaceous plants, which re- IIIK lUOQroFS RWilON'. 841 quired shelter and protection, have disappeared from tlie clearings, and were replaced by strangers. But if the forest again resumes possession of the soil the old inha- bitants return, to the exclusion of the intruders. The numerous species furnishing these trees are, with few exceptions, peculiar, and, including those just mentioned, belong to the following genera, many of them having several species : — Quercus, ulmus, pin us, juglans, dios- pyros, cupressus, acer, negundo, laurus, celtis, gleditschia, virgilia, magnolia, tilia, maclura, (tcscuIus, pavia, corylus, fraxinus, ostrya, juniperus, morus, rhus, rosa, euonymus, rhamnus, hamiltonia, hydrangea, prinos, clethra, kal- mia, cratcegus, comptonia, rayrica, sorbus, halesia, ber- beris, olea, philadelphus, malus, cerasus, gordonia ; but many of the latter are only shrubs. Among herbaceous plants the most characteristic are, in Labiata, collinsonia, salvia, gardoquia, calamintha, hyptis, ceranthera, macbridea, monarda, cunila, Scutel- laria, hyssopus ; ScrophularinecB, seymeria, gerardia, ma- cranthera, herpestis, gratiola, pentstemon, orobanche, antirrhinum, mimulus ; EuphorhiacecB, croton, euphorbia, phyllanthus, jatropha, tragia ; Eanunculacees, clematis, thalictrum, delphinium, ranunculus ; Compositce, — these are extremely numerous and varied ; aster and solidago on which Schouw has erected a region, but they are as- sembled with so many others that it is giving them an undue importance ; liatris, a characteristic group, helian- themum, coreopsis, rudbeckia, eupatoriuni, prenanthes, apogon, krigia, borkhausia, stokesia, vernonia, cacalia, hymenopappus, erigeron, arnica, verbesina, chaptalia, galardia, baldwinia, elephantopus, senecio, lactuca, cni- cus, hieraceum ; Leguminosce, desmodium, lespedeza, in- digofera, stylosanthes, baptisia, astragalus, tephrosia, lupinus, two species with simple leaves ; trifolium is not HI! i ; 1 1 1 •-s'l 1 ' i •'. 1 ' ' li / ^ it^ i J 1 i ! '••■1 1 nil i ' Ml'!! lilt ■ ' 1 >■ '' 1 K 1 1 'i^^ 1 i|l IIB ; ' ' ' iJ: ' '5 iUm IT iff • '14 ' 1 if' ;'i! ^ p ■l> ! i i' I HHBl ■' ' 1 1 i : i\ 1 [ t fr Hnlf 1 I'll 111;. ■till Nii^^: IHirIi IK HB '1 D 1 (^ : 'J 1 1 } , , iJ ! % . •■ 1 1 ■ > 1 'i 11? f : li IBsl .i L 1 ^ • 1 1 Ui'' i V ; '1 % H 1 ' i ■: ']».! ni^l f I \ .i i 1 ^^^Hl^^B^!^^ '1,1 342 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. common ; StellatcB, houstonia, galium, rubia ; PolemO' niacece, phlox, polemonium; Papaveracea, sanguinaria, meconopsis; ApocynecB, amsonia, anantherix, polyotus, asclepias, stylandra, apocynum; UmbellifercB, eryngium, hydrocotyle, leptocaulis, daucus, tiedraannia ; CrucifercB are scarce, but hesperis prevails ; Thymelea has only one representative ; among OrchidacecB are habenaria, coral- lorhiza, orchis, triphora, malaxis, cypripedium, cranachis, bletia, spiranthes, epidendrum ; and of other endogense iris, phalangium, yucca, agave, canna, tradescantia, com- melina, amaryllis, crinum, pancratium. To complete this sketch must be added, podophyllum, diclytra, claytonia, erythronium, mikania, smilax, vitis, polygala, hyperi- cum, lobelia, senothera, silene, arum, nymphaea, nuphar, vallisneria, villarsia, sagittaria, zizania, sarracenia, dio- naea, drosera, oxalis, solanum, rhexia, several species, jus- sisea, mitreola, spilegia, gentiana and sabbatia, various beautiful kinds, eriogonum, pleea-like dionaea with a limited habitat, warea, tiaridium, and numerous ferns. A strong tendency exists in the southern portions to display tropical characters, as is evident from some of the endogense already mentioned, and is farther confined by tillandsia, bromelia, epiphytic orchidaceae, chamserops palmetto, and other palms ; sapindus, passiflora, turnera, bignonia, croton, and pontederia. The monomic* families are very few, and are confined to podophyllacese, sarraceniacese, and limnanthaceae ; of genera 332 are monomic in North America, which is certainly a large number to have so limited a range. There are two which are singularly absent, erica and ficus ; for the latter might be expected in the south, since it is so plentiful in the low lands of Mexico. The forest trees are so numerous, that was it our opinion that vege- * Confined to one region. THE IROQUOIS REGION. 343 tation was diffused from centres, we should almost con- sider this as that whence the temperate regions of the world had been supplied. Leguminosse bear among them a great proportion for the latitude Others are remarkable for the size and brilliancy of their flowers ; occasionally for their glossy leaves; and the autumnal tints of an American forest have long charmed the ima- ginative observer. GramineaB are feebly represented, and to some extent their place is supplied by junceae and cyperaceae, which love the marshy lands. The range of growth of some of the trees has been carefully observed. Quercus virens, the live oak, is found along the shores of the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico to the Sabine river, but not more than twenty miles from the sea, and ceases at 37° N. latitude. Quercus prinus, the chesnut oak, abounds in the Atlantic states south of 41"; q. stellata, the post oak, in Maryland, Virginia, and the upper parts of Georgia and the Carolinas, preferring a dry gravelly soil ; q. montana, the rock chesnut oak, valuable in ship-building, grows in stony soils on the Hudson, Lake Charaplain, and in the Alleghanies of Pennsylvania and Virginia. Juglans nigra is common in a deep and fertile soil south of 43*'. Acer saccharinum* the sugar maple, ranges chiefly from 43° to 46°, but is common in some parts of Pennsylvania and Genessee. Besides sugar, it yields potash abundantly, good charcoal, and a valuable wood. A. nigrum, the black sugar maple, is found farther south, and chiefly abounds in the vicinity of the rivers of the west. It yields sugar freely, but is less generally useful than the former. Betula papyracea, the canoe birch, is a northern tree, not descending be- yond 43°. B. lenta occurs from 40° to 48°, and farther south on the summits of the Alleghanies. B. nigra, on the banks of the rivers, from 41° to Georgia. Laurus II II I I 344 THK REGIONS OF VEGETATION". I I hi : '■ : .^ t Hr 1 • 1 ): f ,i >:fl carolinieijsis, the red bay, in swamps to the south of 37". Diospyros virginiana is common in the United States south of 41". Asimina triloba, the papavv, but not to be confounded with carica paj)aya, ceases at 40". Populus angulata grows only to the south of 39". Chamterops I)almetto stretches along the coast of the Atlantic to 35". This palm grows to forty or fifty feet high, and has some useful qualities. The wood is in request for wharfs and other submersed buildings, as it is not attacked by worms; it also will not splinter when struck by cannon- balls. Cornus florida only grows south of 43". Nyssa villosa, the sour gum, south of 41". N. biflora, the black gum, to 43", and always in moist situations. Fraxinus acuminata abounds to the north of 41", and its wood is so valuable for strength and elasticity, that it is exported. Ulmus americana thrives best from 42" to 46", but is found generally. Its wood is inferior to the European. Pinus resinosa, the red pine, is not seen south of 43". P. palustris, a valuable tree for its wood, its copious resin, and as occupying a very arid soil, commences at Norfolk, in 37", and stretches along the coast for 600 miles, and with a breadth of 100. P. tada, the loblolly pine, exclusively to the south of 38". P. strobus chiefly be- tween 43° and 47" ; and the tallest kinds are used for the masts of vessels. Abies canadensis, the hemlock spruce, has the same range as the last. A. nigra, chiefly from 44° to 53". Its wood is preferred for spars, and spruce beer is made from its branches. A. alba has a similar range. Thuja occidentals, lignum vitse, or white cedar, grows with the spruces. Taxodium distichum, the bald cypress, is peculiar to swamps south of 38". Juniperus virginiana, the red cedar, prevails south of 44" in dry exposed situations.* * For much of these details 1 am indebted to liie interesting sketch of the i ' Tilt: CALIFOKNIA liWilON. 'Mo sketch of the Relations. — Thisreiion is so ricli in vnrictv that very extensive relations niij^ht be expected, but though these are certainly nuiuorous, the peculiarity of its flora is very striking. With Europe it might be supposed to have many species in common; yet of 2,891 phanerogamic, only 385 re-appear there. The j»roj)ortionate scarcity of umbelliferoe, cruciferoe, and tiiiblium, is somewhat re- markable; and in examining the vegetation we cannot fail to be impressed how closely the productions of cold and hot regions are brought toget.iCr, and consequently how much the intermediate temperate portion is compressed. This appears to be the reason why tlie groups just men- tioned are so littleseen. With the China region there are some interesting points of resemblance, through hydran- gea, cocculus, and others ; with South Africa in amaryl- lideaj, India in scitaniineai ; and with the Patagonia and California regions through berberis, and many other geneia with the latter. Clusia rosea is met with in Carolina, and several cinchonacea; prevail through the region to the vicinity of the lakes. v.— THE CALIFORNIA REGION. Extent. — After crossing the Columbia river from the north, an entirely altered vegetation commences. The dense compact forests of abies cease suddenly, and are sup- planted by an open country, spotted by occasional clump of oaks, and the river lines fringed by platan us, fraxi- nus, juglans, and salix. The outline oi the region may botany of the United States, as in tiie American edition of Murray's Kncr- cloi)ccdia of Geograiihy. 340 THK REdlONS Ol' VKGErATlON. : ) 'I-; 1 II be traced uj) the Columbia river to the Rocky Mountains, which it meets in about 50° N. latitude, and is continued along them to the south, till approaching the com- mencing waters of the Colorado, it runs along its course to the gulf of California. The remaining portion is cir- cumscribed by the Pacific Ocean. PiivsiCAL Characters. — In its northern part the sur- face is regular, and there are some well- watered fine allu- vial plains, without a rock or stone. Occasionally ranges of low mountains traverse it, chiefly of porphyry, basalt, and jasper, which are not of suflicient elevation to affect materially the vegetation, but support some groves of pinus lambertiana and abies religiosa ; pinus rigida prefers the plains. The broad plains which separate them are often overflowed in the winter, which with their deep rich soil renders them very fertile. To the south, the scenery is wild and rugged, nearly altogether moun- tainous, the ranges running from north to south. Not a tree is to be seen, but there is a moderate sprinkling of a more lowly and interesting vegetation. The prevailing rocks here are serpentine, gneiss, basalt, and greenstone. There is no soil nor fertilizing streams, water being very scarce. Climate. — To the north the climate is even and tem- perate ; the winters are mild and of short duration, and snow appears on the loftier hills ; and the summers have an agreeable warmth, with the atmosphere clear and transparent. In the autumn the dews are excessively heavy. The summers of the southern portion are warmer, the temperature being generally from 60° to 74°. The rains are soon over, but during their continuance deluge the country. The atmosphere is particularly clear, aiid it would also appear dry, as when signs of the - i- TIIK CALIFORNIA UEGION. 347 rtion 18 cir- wet season were gathering in the heavens, the dew-point was G2", the shade 72" ; and at the same time the sun's rays were 115'\ Flora. — The finest part of this region is to the north, where an open country prevails, varied by patches of trees of noble growth. Of the oaks, two species are deci- duous, and two evergreen. The latter are confined to the neighbourhood of the sea coast between 38" and 34° N. latitude. The other trees are not numerous, and are chiefly comprised under platanus, acer, pavia, juglans, cornus, laurus regia, and the aromatic tetranthcra cali- fornica. It is among these forest trees that the chief relations with the Iroquois region is established, and it is one of affinity. The undergrowth consists of several species of rubus, ribes, lupinus, rhus, vaccinium, arbutus, and lonicera ; and such is the variety of some of these, that a new species may be met with almost every hun- dred miles. Vitis, scarcely expected, grows abundantly on the margins of some of the rivers. Shrubby com- positse prevail throughout, but are in the greatest inten- sity towards the centre of the region ; and in the more arid parts cactese and euphorbiaceae are particularly nu- merous, with a few leguminosse. Cactese are not seen further north than 34° ; here also is the limit of ricinus communis, of course introduced, as is phoenix dacty- lifera, a few large trees of which may be seen about San Diego, but only yielding a sour fruit. As characteristic peculiarities of the region may be mentioned, its great aridity, general scarcity of trees, superior prevalence of cactese, compositse, and euphor- biaceae, great number of plants with lactescent juices, and with fragrant foliage, the frequent developement of the flowers and leaves at different periods, and the general small range of its spceics. The negative features consist : ! 1 'if It \h, ] ^ 1 \ 1 ' 1 m ( i (' i 1 ' y48 TIIK ItlXilONS Ml' VWIKTAIION. in fliescuicity of Ifriis, luohsus, and f'liii'^i, iioiiu of'wliicli oxi8t in tlio soiitlicrn purt, except porliapn the latter (luring the rains. Lichens, with »'< kly uspeotH, occu- sionully cliiij^ to the trees or roeks, Helations. — Californin, though less known, has an equally fine climate with the south of Europe, (liili, the Cape of (Jood Jlojic, or New South ^^■ah•s; and with these parts of the world has a general resemblance in its vegetation. In estahlishing a comparison between the western and eastern parts of the American continent, a superiority must be assigned in the forest trees to the east, and in tiie herbaceous vegetation to the west. VI. THE PRAIUIE KEGION. imJ: h I r- : I I : 1 Extent. — This is a peculiar tract enclosed by the vast forests of North America. It extends from within a hundred miles of the west bank of the Mississippi to the Rocky Mountains, stretching to 64" N. latitude, and again only bounded on the south by the wooded cjuntry of the Texas and the Mexican Sea. The outline is tolerably regular, except that two processes cross the above river; one penetrating the states of Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio; and the other farther south, stretching into Alabama. Physical Characters. — The prairie is far from being a continuous extensive plain, and in this respect must yield to the Pampas. It consists rather of an assemblage of plains, often with slightly unr'ulating surfaces, and frequently covered with a fruitful soil ; their level being occasionally broken by projecting masses of rocks or ranges of low hills. The subjacent structure is com- posed of red or grey saliferous sandstone, chicHy the TIfK I'KMHIK HKCMON. :M!> foruu'i, wit li beds of clay. Clilotide of Hodiiiiii iihoiiiidH with other salts, mid are found hirgcly in the vicinity of the llocky Mountains, and in the northern part of the region, (lypsiini likewisu occurs, and gravel, sand, or lioiildei's occasionally prcivail. Climati;. — Th(! lonj;- drouj^hts to which the prairie is liable have been supposed to preclude the existi-nce of shrubs or trees, and to be favourable to the tnore fiij^a- cious grasses. Heavy rains sonietinies fall, and during their continuance rivers spring up, and gliding over llie country, ntuirish a lively vegetation. In the «lry season these soon shrink to suuill streams, disconneotcd chaius of ponds or nuirshes, or entirely disappear. I'l.oHA. — This extensive portion of country supports a by no nicuuS insignificant flora, (jrauiincu' is the most important grouj), and is represented by nuujerousfestuca, brouius, stipa, aristida, poa, agrostis, cryj)sis, kroleria, hordeum, eriocoma, and others. Grasses flourish more particularly in the northern part, yielding gradually towards the south to various herbaceous compositie, some cucurbitacea,', vites, scrophularineae, solanem, loraginetv, and euphorbiaceae. The peculiarities of the region are derived chiefly from the absence of trees, the great prej)onderance of graminero and of compositie through the genera rudbeckia, helianthus, silphiuiii, coreoj)sis, and other allied groups, and in the scarcity of bulbous plants in a situation, where, from a comparison with the Cape of Good Hope and other places, they might be supposed to exist. Cacteae appear farther north in the prairie than in the California region, and are often ac- companied in both by a yucca. However interesting the Rocky Mountains may prove to the geologist, they have no flora suflicient to give them any individuality as a region. They are as destitute of 350 THE REGIONS OV VEGETATION. !;■ !! :f.i.* •■ 4 arborescent vegetation as tlie prairie, and the interesting herbaceous plants found among them are only a portion of this flora. If their latitude generally is considered, they will be found incapable of possessing any important alpine vegetation, and even around their bases the snow will lie long and perseveringly on the ground. Relations. — Towards the south this region becomes gradually blended with the California and Chihuahua regions : an analogy with the pampas is established through the numerous gramineae; and with the northern regions by numerous cruciferie and umbelliferae, but those of the prairie are nearly all peculiar. The more interest- ing relation exists with the Steppes of Tartary, with which it has many points in common. The chief relation is that of affinity, the same genera being represented in both by different species; among these are artemisia, astragalus, thermopsis, sophora, glycyrrhiza, fritillaria, and diotis; and rheum is replaced by the analogous genus eriogonum. VII.— THE CHIHUAHUA REGION. Extent. — This name is pronounced Chi-wah-wah, and though the designation may appear somewhat novel, on the spot it is in extensive use ; but almost equally little is known of the inhabitants, productions, and flora. On account of the barrenness of information respectirg the latter, we can hardly more than indicate this region. Though an important portion of Mexico, it differs from it in many respects, and it is necessary to draw a strong line of demarcation, since the very name of Mexico is apt to convey to the mind of the botanist an association of characters certainly not pertaining to this part of the I ■( THE CENTRAL AMERICA REGION. 351 republic. On the north it has the Prairie Region, aweep- ing round it even to the shores of the Gulf of Mexico, and meeting the Central America Region, thus completely separating it from the Atlantic. To the south, it ceases about the limit of the tropic, and on the west it has the Gulf of California, and the Rio Colorado. Physical Characters. — Bold and mountainous. Climate. — Cold for the latitude, and apparently liable to vicissitudes. Flora. — A thin forest occasionally covers part of the surface ; at other times the vegetation is lowly, and there are broad spots entirely without any. The general cha- racter is rugged and austere, the land rising rapidly to a moderate elevation. Hence the climate is cool for the latitude, and the productions those of ten or fifteen de- grees farther north. Steep precipices, and narrow passes abound, with the customary attendants of stern mountain scenery. Between the various ranges arc fertile plains well adapted to agriculture, and the valleys are often very productive. Nitre and common salt are sometimes mixed copiously with the soil, depriving it of fertility. Compositae are numerous ; some are shrubby, but the tribe coreopsidew more particularly prevails. Cacteae are com- mon ; a few amaryllideoo, some showy and interesting spieces of labiata^, and perhaps also of scrophularinejE and boragineee. Relations. — Unknown. VIII.— THE CENTRAL AMERICA REGION. Extent. — The southern portion of the republic of Mexico, the whole of the Federal States of Central America, and a portion of New Granada; it thus extends 6 m .^ 352 THE KWaONS OK VK(iKTATJ()N. yr i ' ;|:J i;- J -I if I a Hi ' from the norlli tropic to tlie Gulf of St. Michael in tlie Bay <»f Paiiauia, but sends a tongue to meet the Prairie Heglon, on the Mexican Sea. In elevation it attains 4,500 feet, or the couimencement of the cultivation of wheat ; and the lowland cultivation ceases about this, whiclj is inconsiderable for the latitude. Iluniboldt's warm region ceases at 000 metres, or 1,908 feet, but this is no limit to eitlier the introduced or natural productions. PnvsicAi, CnAuvoTKus. — That part conij)rising tin; Mexican States, and the Upper States of Central Americji, rises rapidly from the shores of both seas to the elevated and peculiar table-hinds of this part of America. Near both shores the soil is pioduclive, if not abundant, but on leaving' them the suiface is usually rugged, and broken by huge masses of granite, porjdiyry, serpentine, or bazalt. This part of tlie region is composed Jilmost en- tirely of these primary rocks, very few of secondary for- mation being known to exist. More to the south, and near the Isthmus of Panama, the country is far more even, the continuity of the Andes being completely broken, and in the vicinity of the lakes of Leon and Nicaragua is so even that no perceptible inequality can be noticed on traversing it, and the greatest dift'erence is no- where more than a few yards. Here the soil is rich and abundant, very productive, and capable of yielding many successive cro])s. Climate. — The seasons are tropical, the rains com- mencing from April to June, according to the latitude, and lasting five months. During the rest of the year a hot sun and clear sky prevail. Flora. — This region belongs to that variety of tropical vegetation where leguminosaj, &c., prevail, and hence we infer a certain aridity of soil and atmosphere. In this respect it yields greatly to the Oronoco Region, and CENTRAL AMKUICA RECTON: tj5a el in tho e Prairie it attains vation of out this, uiuboldt's but tliis is luctious. rising; thana, sulix several sj)ecles, aniygdalus luicropliylhi, cheirosteiiion platanoidcs, mespilus pubescens, and se- veral species of arbutus, arctostaphylos, vacciuiuui, rosa, and ribes. Relations. — With teinjierate Europe and America it has many genera in common, as senecio, cnicus, draba, ranunculus, anemone, arenaria, stachys, pedicularis, myo- sotis, polcmonium, galium, cornus, and caprifolium ; but a firmer connexion with the latter is established through lupinus, ageratum, and chelono; yet nearly every species is peculiar. The moie peculiar genera are ' mirabilis, mau- randya, leucophyllum, hoitzla, georgina or dahlia, zinnia, sckhuria, ximenesia, lopezia, vauquelinia, choisya, and cheirostemon.' It possesses, in common with other alpine regions, the negative character of having no ^veculiar natural family, and comparatively few genera; its indi- viduality depends on species. Through quercus and pinus, and some of the herbaceous genera, it is con- nected more closely with tlie Himma-leh than with the Andes region. !'■ ' t' ; I X.— THE WEST INDIA REGION. Extent. — The West India Islands, the Bahamas, and theextremity of Florida, south of 27" north latitude, com- pose this region, which, with the exception of the latter, is the same as Schouw's. It possesses all the vigour and luxuriance of an island climate within the tropins, where moisture is ever ready in the atmosphere to feed vege- tation ; and the elevation of the surface, which in Cuba ■■ . WKST INDTA RKOION. :{r)7 are sup- c. sabi- us mcx- rophylla, and se- uiu, losa, America us, draba, aris, inyo- lium ; but 1 through ■ry species biiis,mau- lia, /innia, oisya, and ther alpine o ^icculiar \x ; its indi- rcus and it is con- with the lamas, and [tude, com- the latter, vigour and lies, where Ifeed vege- bh in Cuba attains nearly 1),0()() I'oet, is also sufficient to produce a variety in the productions. The whole is situated be- tween 10" and 27" north latitude. Physical Charactehs, — These islands vary much in their character and geological formation. They admit of a twofold division ; the volcanic rising to elevated summits, covered with forest, abundantly supplied with streams of water, and very fertile, as St. Vincent, St. Lucie, Martinique, Dominica, and Cluadaloupe ; the others, principally composed of limestone, are low, less watered, by no means so productive, and sometimes even sterile, such as Barbadoes, Tobago, Antigua, and Bar- buda. Cuba, the most extensive island, is chiefly covered with forest, and has a superficies of 54,000 square miles. A chain of mountains traverses it from east to west, which rises into several peaks, and sends many streams to the plains below. The mountain chain is composed of granite, syenite, gneiss, and mica slate, and the lower lands of secondary formations, and they are eminently fertile and productive. Jamaica has a super- ficies of 4,256 square miles, and the Blue Mountains, whose greatest elevation is 7,278 feet, make an agreeablo variety in the clitnate, and a healthy retreat for the invalid. These are chiefly composed of transition rocks, with, nearer the coast, red sandstone, marl, and limestone reposing on them. Some parts are alluvial, and generally well watered and fruitful. St. Domingo has an area of 28,000 square miles, and the central mountain peaks are lofty, La Serrania attaining 9,000 feet, and La Sella, 7,000 feet. Their flanks support noble forests, and are traced by numerous fertilizing streams. Puerto Rico contains 240 square miles, and is equally fertile with the rest. Its highest part is about 4,000 feet, and it has several fertile valleys and plains. The Baiiatnas comprise a w mma 358 TIIK ItECMONS Ol' VE(JETATION. t if ill 5 I •i .;!■ numerous group, comjwsed of sandstone ; and though the soil is generally dry and rocky, they yield some good timher. Climate. — The temperature is usually equuhle, but must be called warm ; the range is therefore inconsider- able, and the mean at different j)laces will vary from 7ij" to 81". It is only on the accession of a north wind, that much deviation occurs, and then even ice is stated to be produced, but those islands most to windward are the greatest sufferers. Flora. — Originally nearly the whole of this region was covered with forest ; a few exccj)tions might only be found where tropical grasses occupi(,'d the surface. Now cultivation has removed an imj)ortant portion, but ex- tensive woods still exist. Swietenia mahagoni abounds in several islands, as does also guaicum officinale, with various species of myrtus, uvaria, laurus, and melasfoma. The sameness these might otherwise produce is broken by several palmaj, and especially by the arborescent ferns, whose peculiar beauty is highly characteristic of the scenery. Ferns are generally very abundant, and assume a tropical variety of stature and habit. The most pre- valent and characteristic are asplenium arboreum, cyathaea arborea, c. speciosa, c. muricata, with numer- ous species of polypodium, pteris, aspidium, gymno- gramma, acrostichum, and adiantum. A multitude of twining plants festoon the vegetation, lashing it into an impervious mass, belonging to convolvuluceae, passi- floresBj some leguminosae, assisted by interesting kinds of paullinia and aristolochia. Orchidacese are very abundant, particularly the extensive genus epidendrum, and species of oncidium, ble^ ., catasetum, andspiran- thes are also numerous. The claims of Florida south of 27" north latitude to VVKST INDIA R KG I ON. 359 A be considered u part of this region, arc established throu(>;h tillandsia, sapindus, indijjofera, chrysobalanus, rhexia, croton, jatropha, and several others. Relations. — The position of this region between the large continents of America insures an intimate relation with them, modified by its insular situation. This is, however, stronger with South than North America, per- haps arising from the moister atmosphere common to both, for there are no other circumstances which are not equally shared by the Central America region. With the South Anierican regions it is strongly related by similar genera of palmae, passitlorea;, orehidacete, plum- baginese, cordiacete, and arborescent and herbaceous ferns. With the central America region the connexioa is through ficus, a few orchidaccae, asplenium arboreum, swietenia niahagoni, pinus occidentalis, and some o'thers, particularly those of the sandy shores, as hippo- mane mancinella. There is a singular absence of qucrcus in the higher lands, considering how very numerous the species are in the Mexico alpine region within the same latitude. It has all the luxuriance of other insular re- gions within the tropics, and is unsurpassed by them in the variety of its ferns and orchidaceae, as none others have a similar number for a given space. In the latter, the Pacific islands are much poorer, perhaps from the absence of the dense forest they appear to love. Wyd- leria portoriccensis and lepidium virginicum, two cruci- ferous plants, are found on the island, indicated by the specific name of the former. 3(10 THE UEOIONS OF VKCSETATlON. !■ :? (!) XI.— THE OUONOCO REGION rv ,1 J ! Extent. — That vast portion of South America, stretch- ing from the Cordillera of the Andes to the Athintic, and from the Carribean Sea to tlie Rio Plata, presents several divisions characterised by certain physical features. From the elevated lands of the interior of the continent three sets of rivers take their origin, and after tra- versing huge basins, are at length emptied into the ocean in three directions, to the north, the east, and the south. The vegetable productions of thf» divisions have also their peculiarities, which are sufficiently dis- tinct to authorise a separation ; and assuming a designa- tion from the principal riverof each, we have the Oronoco Region, the Amazon Region, and the Paraguay Region, the boundaries of which are conveniently traced along the ridges of those secondary mountains, at the bases of which their tributaries have their origin. The Oronoco Region occupies the northern part of Sout'' America, and a line running along the sierra of Araray, and traversing the continent to the Bay of Guayaquil, forms its southern limit ; whilst to the north it ceases at the Gulf of St. Michael, and is elsewhere inclosed by the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Physical Characters. — Some lesser ranges of moun- tains traverse the region, with their sides broken into steep and confined valleys. From their bases extend vast plains or llanos, covered either with forest or luxuriant grasses. These extensive llanos are repre- sented in Brazil by the campos, and around Buenos A.yres by the pampas, but are here in their greatest richness. The rivers often inundate their banks, fer- tilizing a soil already extremely rich, and for a time TIIK OkMNocn KWJION. 'M'A convcrtitifj large districts into $iavannn1i. A very sandy soil prevails in some places, as in the neighbourhood of Cuniana, supporting chiefly multitudes of gigantic cacteoe. Humboldt has observed that the vegetation here ap- peared more luxuriant wherever the limestone was covered by quartzy sandstone, the latter appearing fa- vourable to the retention of moisture. Climate. — Situated so near the equator, the climate is a warm one. Caraccas has an annual mean of from 70" to 72", which, however, is far too low for the region perhaps as much as 8". The range is stated to be from 51" to 85", being considerable for the latitude. The humidity of the atmosjdiere varies according to the soil and vegetation. On the Pacific, in the Biiy of Choco, rain falls ten months in the year, but in the more arid j)art8 rain is far from frequent or abundant. The climate of Guiana has been supposed to be favourable to the growth of certain spices, as cloves and nutmegs, which, from some idiosyncracy, are still produced of the best quality only in the Moluccas. Flora. — Much of the region is covered with forest, particularly in the vicinity of the oceans, between which and the interior a broad belt intervenes. In many in- stances the trees are remarkable for the beauty of their wood, the fragrance of their secretions, and the rich and valuable resins they exude. In Guiana trees of this clia- racter are very numerous, and belong chiefly to Laurineae. Throughout are spread a vast number of representatives of the tropical arborescent families. Gramineaj abound in the llanos, chiefly of kellingia, cenchrus, and pas- palum, intermixed with species of mimosa, turnera, and malvaceae. On some of the rivers a grass, cynerium saccharoides, attains a height of thirty-two feet. Wlicrc the climate is humid, piperacea', passiflorcae, and me- Vi I I 'M'r2 TIIK RKOIONH OK VK(JF,TATI()N. luHtoinucoir, iirc; very imnierouH, overHlitulowed by IIm; Hinguliir cIiiNin and tlic lofty and fociitid bi^noniu. Filiecs nrc numerous ns individniils, but, toj^otlior witli orcliidiu'CM', do not abound in Hpceies. Honiu pulniiu are jMHudiar, and of intcrt'st. JtKLATioNs. — With the nci<;liboui'in(>; rop^ions tlicre are naturally sonic strong afKniticH. J^hopala, a protuaccouH genus, occurs ; and also a species of punica. |l ' ? li i ! (i XII.— THE ANDES REGION. I 1 t-a 1' ■ mil mi r Extent. — As nr alpine regions always commence at the line wliich separates the cultivation of the lowlands i'roni that of the mountains, the lower boundary will be at 0,500 feet, and includes all above this to the confines of the vegetable world at 18,000 feet. It stretches to the northward along the magnificent mountain chains of New Granada, and to the south through Peru and Bolivia, where the line of lowland cultivation will descend a little. Its exact extent to the south has not been acertained. Physical Characters. — Amongthe stupendous scenery of the Andes and the steep and scarp^.l precipices and mountain sides, vegetation would appear unlikely to flourish ; yet these often afford a shelter, and also assist to collect a soil in the valleys and plains. Hence, from the barrenness of a bare surface of primitive rocks, to the luxuriance of fertile and warm valleys, there is every variety of productiveness. In the plains between pa- rallel ranges the soil is often deep and rich, and is equally suited to agriculture or the rearing of herds of cattle. Mountain torrents descend in fury through deep chasms, TIIK ANDKS UKdlOV. 3(J:{ or Hoiiictitiios asuiniiiti^, for a wliilc;, trunqiiilllty, waiidor ill |ioucc>fiil iind f'crtili/.iiip; streams tliruii[;li tlic plains. (Jlimatk. — Tiic utinosplicro of alpine rr<;ions is liahlt! to violcMit (listurbaiico iVuin storms, wlii(;li arc both rapid in tlu^ir approach and disappoaranoo, and iA'tru loavo behind much devastation amon^ the trees of the forest. The t(Mnperntnr(! of any ;^iv(!n spot is very ecpia'ile, and ranj^es, for the wliole re<^ion, from (m" to several de;.^re(s below the frt^e/in^ point. Kain falls throit<^h()Ut the year in frecjuent showers, with little regard to tlu; seasons, and the amount is no where great. To the decreased pressure, greater brilliancy of the sun's rays, and di- minished Hus])euded moisture, some of the peculiarities may be referred. Fi.oiiA. — The least elevated portion is occupied by a magnificent forest, and valuable as containing numerous species of cinchona, which yield a medicine highly prized throughout the world, except in the neighbourhood of its production. Some tropical families ascend tenaciously to these elevations, as piperacere, melastomacetc, cacteie, and passifloreiD, the latter assuming the novel habit of arbo- rescence ; and the numerous synantherejc are particularly characteristic. Ficus, oreocallis, clusia, persea, and ocotea, are mingled tvith podocarpus, quercus, ilex, and salix. Above the forest is a large district of bushes with much variety in the species ; drymis and wintera from the south, meet ribes, rubus, and viburnum from the north, and are associated with various species of thibaudia, alnus, andro- meda, fuchsia, vaccinium, calceolaria, culcitium, duranta, barnardesia, escallonia, berberis, and befaria. The flora is agreeably diversified by some haemanthus, alstroemeria, sisyrinchium, and other liliaceous plants. The grasses, which, in both a botanical and economical point of view, are so important, occupy a broad space between 13,000 It h\j i, A '^ !i « I y 'i I ! ! .(I |!| ! Ill ; h H 4 I i! niK FlECnoNS OF VKGETATION. and 14,500 feet, and are contributed chiefly by jnrava, stipa, agrostis, panicitni,avena, land dactylis. Succeeding to the grasses are many herbaceous plants, and histly the lichens, crowning, as it were, tlie flora of the region. J'jven this very slight sketch would be incomplete with- out mentioning some of the groups which flourish on the higher elevations and give an aspect of variety. A few of these are herbaceous compositte, lowly umbellifera% saxifr.agea*, cruciferiv, vjilerianeiL', and caryophylleai ; with species of gentiana, ruuiex, plantago, arum, oxalis, dorstenia, swertia, and lobelia. The plants attaining the greatest elevation are two lichens, umbilicaria pustulata and verrucaria geographica. Hklations. — Between all ali)ine regions there will be numerous analogies, but few points of identity, and also a certain similarity with regions of the lowlands in a j)ro- ])ortionate latitude. With the Mexico alpine region are several sources of resemblance through ericacejw, synan- thereje, cruciferae, quercus, sulix, and cheirostemon plata- noidcs. It however is deflcient in the important genera of pinus, abies, and rosa. The flora is so rich and varied, that relations may easily be traced with most regions under a temperate clinuite. XIII. THE AMAZON I^EGION. Extent. — This extensive region occupies a chief part of the empire of Brazil, and comprises thr richest and finest portion of South America. It consists of a magni- ficent basin intersected by a multitude of rivers, many of which are of considerable size. The original streams of the largest of these, the Amazon, have their rise in the Andes, and gradually uniting their waters, traverse the rciriou to the Atlantic ocean. Its boundaries arc the THE AMAZON KIHilON. 305 by jurava, Succeediiif^ lI lastly the the region, iplete with- irish on tlie ;ty. A few iml)ellifera;, lyllca; ; with uni, oxalis, ttaining the ia pustiilata here will be ty, and also ids in a pro- ic region are icciu, synan- tomon plata- tant genera and varied, nost regions N. chief part richest and of a uiagni- ers, many of streams of rise in the traverse the ries arc the ridges of the mountain chains, which may be regarded as the margins of the basin, and cannot be traced witi» accu- racy. From east to west it extends from the Atlantic to the Cordilleras, on the north it has a sinuous outline on the summits of the Sieri'a de Araray and the l^arinu- chain to the bay of Guayaciuil ; and on the south between the provinces ofMinas (jeraes and San Paulo, bending to the head waters of the Paraguay onward to the Andes in Bolivia. PnvsicAL CiiAUACTEUS. — From the Andes, plains of almost boundless extent gradually incline towards the Atlantic. Several ranges of low mountains intersect them, but their comparative importance is triHing, and their elevation rarely exceeds 4,000, never 6,000 feet ; which is insufficient to produce any material change in the vegetation, though permitting some plant? to adopt a selection. Balbi regards these j)lains as table lands, with an elevation from 1,030 to 1,GG0 feet. Granite and syenite form the bases of both the mountain chains and the lowlands, on which repose gneiss, mica slate, chlorite slate, quartz rock, and limestone. On these again are sandstone and slate clay, with alluvial deposits. True volcanic rocks have no existence. The soil varies ; in the forest it is either a rich dark vegetable mould, or a fruit- ful deep red loam, and both are astonishingly productive under cultivation. In the more open country sand enters largely into the soil, and when opposed to a moist as well as warm atmosphere, displays a varied vegetation. The soil in the neighbourhood of the rivers has, from their per .iical inundations, attained the greatest fertility, and gives birth to an excess of luxuriance. Climate. — The equator traverses the region, but tlie climate partakes of that unsteady character with regard to humidity which is so frequent, and at the same time so t , . I ' «« 3G0 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. m At 1 i| [ iii", ! ,HM productive of variety. Para will give us the state of the climate on the plains nearest the river. The atmosphere is hot and sultry, and the range of temperature through- out the year very small ; the mean is 84°, and the annual fall of rain from 80 to 100 inches. More to the south, the year is regularly distributed into the wet and dry seasons. At Rio Janeiro the rains occur from September to March, the temperature high, and often with much electrical disturbance of the atmosphere. In the interior of the country rain is less abundant, and in some places scarce. The seasons are the reverse of those in the neighbouring Oronoco regions. Flora. — In this region the American tropical families are in excess, and have the greatest number of represen- tatives. The vegetatiou has a twofold character, com- jjrising the forest, which extends in a broad belt along the coast from north to south, and the Sertam country, aeon- traction of dezertara, where grasses and shrubs prevail, and occasionally a few trees in sheltered valleys or ravines. The forest is composed of an endless number of trees, of which to mention some would be placing others too much in the background. These trees attain a great height, with straight clear stems, their foliage uniting in a canopy above, and leaving all beneath in perfect shade and quiet. This great longitudinal developement is not favourable to a protracted existence, as age and climate soon attack the trees, and their places are left vacant for others. Of the natural families which abound in greatest intensity, and are also conspicuous fo.^ their interest, are, palmae, assuming much variety of habit, cinchonaceae, melastomaceae, piperaceae, myrtacese, marcgraaviacese, gesnerica% sapindacese, vocliyaceae, guttifera?, malpighi- acea3, hi[)pocrat,eacea', and bromeliaceae. Epiphytic plants festoon the trees in multitudes, but here orchi- 10 ite of tho ;mospliere 3 througli- ;lie annual the south, t and dry September with much ;he interior ome places ose in the cal families »f represen- acter, com- It along the ntry, acon- prevail, and ravines. )er of trees, rv others too lin a great e uniting in rfect shade ment is not and climate t vacant for in greatest terest, are, nchonaceae, graaviaceffi, , malpighi- Epiphytic lere orchi- THE AMAZON REGTON. 307 dacese are not frequent, and their j)lace is supplied by species of bromelia, tillandsia, the strange pothos, and many ferns. The twining plants are freely supplied by passifloreae, leguminosae, convolvulaceaj, aristolochiee, asclepiadeee, and .v ikania. The Sertam counlry has its own vegetable charms, and though much occupied by grasses with a dull grey hairy surface, has large spaces covered with bushwood, and sometimes even trees. Many of these are attractive, and chiefly belong to cinchonaceae, compositae, apocynea;, malpighiacese, and euphorbiaceaj. A few of the more numerous genera are declieuxia, rhexia, banisteria, gaudi- chaudia, eroton, wedelia, kleinia, and sauvagesia. The trees are described by Von Martius as attaining only fifteen or twenty feet in height, and growing as a light open grove. The chief are derived from laplacia, goni- phia, marcgraafia, vochysia, qualia, solanum, byrsonima, erythroxylon, panax, and rhexia ; and amaryllideae are frequent. Some peculiarities may be noticed on the sides and summits of the difterent mountain chains. On Itacolumi, or the Child of Stone, a mountain near Villa Rica, attain- ing 5,710, Von Martius saw the curious arborescent lilies of barbacennia bicolor, b. tricolor, b. tomentosa, b. luzulaefolia, b. ensifolia, vellosia abietina, and v. taxifolia. Other characterizing genera are galium, mo- rinda, declieuxia, oxypetalum, ditassa, lisianthus, exagura, phyllanthus, lavradia, gloxinia, gesneria, vitis, and terns- troemia. Growing on the ironstone floetz formation, and supposed to be distinctive of it, were, laui'us erythropus, bauhinia ferruginosa, abatia tomentosa, brysonima niti- dissima, banisteria versicolor, vanillosma firmum, lisi- anthus pulcherrimus, phyllanthus robustus, and mikania glauca. The swampy ground is distinguished by species i: 1 II 1^ 308 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. i *; ' (| l][ MH? m of liydrocotyle, drosera, andromeda, gaultheria, utricii- laria, sauvagesia, and eriocaulon. Relations. — Amoug the alpine plants, if so they can be called, are many intimately connected with the ve- getation of the temperate regions of Europe and North America, as panax, clethra, vitis, galium, and gaultheria. Ambrosia artemesiaefoiia, a strand plant of the Iroquois Region, occurs on the shores of Paraiba. Walsh saw patches of the European fern, aspidium filix mas, and also bushes of Rubus occidentalis. The same traveller mentions avena sterilis attaining a height of ten feet. For some time the existence of canna indica was sup- posed to confer an interesting point of identity with India, but it is now known to be a frequent plant within the tropics. M!i, . %. H I i> I ! XIV.— THE PARAGUAY REGION. Extent. — It embraces the space of country traversed by the Paraguay River and its tributary streams; its outline will thus extend from the coast between the Brazilian provinces of San Paulo and Minas Garaes, and, arching to the north, terminate on the limits of the Pampas Region, and again on the south along the course of the Rio Plata, and the hitherto unascertained margin of the same region. Physical Characters. — A portion of this country is not so completely a plain as would appear from the maps, as towards the Andes several spurs are sent off' which spread into the interior. San Paulo is sufficiently elevated to affect considerably its productions, and the difference between it and Minas Geraes has struck several travellers. Generally the joil is rich and fertile, THE PARA(JUAY RKGION. :K)9 , utricu- they can the ve- ld North lultheria. Iroquois 'alsh saw mas, and ! traveller ten feet, was sup- itity with mt within N. traversed earns; its ween the s Garaes, its of the Ithe course d margin [country is from the le sent off' [ufRciently and the las struck Ind fertile, but there are large spaces covered with scarcely any- t'ling but sand, and yielding a poor bushy vegetation. Climate. — That of San Paulo corresponds to the whole region; the mean temperature of the year is 73", and the range is small. Hoar frost is sometimes seen, but snow is unknown. The rains occur at two periods, the autumnal being the heaviest. Flora. — The tropical features, which the Amazon Region possesses in such intensity, have greatly dimi- nished; palmae are few; ferns continue very numerous, but with a habit more suited to a drier climate. Bac- charis and other compositse cover the sandy districts, and cacteae are frequent. Umbelliferae, though far from numerous, have a greater preponderance than in neigh- bouring regions. The forest is open, and composed of fine trees ; arborescent ferns still continue, and where they assemble in groves exclude all other vegetation, a peculiarity possessed by them when growing gregariously. In a collection of plants made in the warmer portion of the region, com positae were a 12th, leguminosae a 15th, clnchonaceae and orchideae a 20th, melastomaceaj a 29th, labiatae and solaneae a 40th. Tristan da Cunha, situated in 37° S. lat., is known to possess 113 indigenous plants, among which are several umbelliferse, which induces us to regard the island as a fragment of this region. Relations. — These are perhaps feeble with distant regions, vhilst they are not strong with tho?e in the vicinity. Arauearia brasiliensis is frequent in the forest, a representative of an Australian genus, though having a nearly allied species in Chili. ' I '^ VOL. II. li 11 I HI iH 1 i 1 i 1 1 m 1 ■1 r li 1 . ■,» ' I f, I I ! }'i !» I ' ■ n J!; J 370 TIIK UEdlONS OF VEGETATION. XV.— THE CHILI AND PERU REGION. Extent. — A peculiar and well-defined region, but still fur from productive. It includes a narrow strip between the Cordilleras and the Pacific Ocean from Cape Blanco in 4" S. lat. to the oblique line stretching from 36" S. lat. on the coast of Chili to Port St. Antonio on the opposite side. Both limits are well marked ; at the northern the forest of the adjacent region commences suddenly, and at the southern, around Conception, rapidly appear those numerous genera, which establish so strong a relation between the Patagonia Region and the tem- perate latitudes of the northern hemisphere. Some doubts may arise whether the Andes of its southern part should not be included, and I am disposed to think they ought, but at present it is impossible to trace the exact relations. The two islands of Juan Fernandez also belong here. Physical Characters. — The flank of the Cordilleras regarding the Pacific is composed chiefly of porphyritic rocks, but the somewhat inclined plane which slopes towards the ocean is formed by deposits of clay, both tertiary and recent, very frequently inclosing shells, and resting on a substratum of brown sandstone. The surface may be divided into the valleys and the intervening ridges ; the former containing some soil, and a supply of water near which is assembled the entire vegetation, whilst the spaces between are usually quite bare, or only support some straggling brushwood. The soil in the exposed places contains a large proportion of salt, both of nitrate of potash and chloride of sodium, which lies in a thin stratum one or two inches beneath the surface and can be easily removed in solid thin cakes. This ■ THE rillLl AND I'KRi; IIKOION. nn ION. I, but still p between pe Blanco from 36 lio on the 1; at the lommences on, rapidly 1 so strong 1 the teui- re. Some J southern ;d to think 0 trace the Fernandez Cordilleras Dorphyritic ich slopes clay, both shells, and he surface ntervening I a supply vegetation, re, or only soil in the salt, both which lies he surface Ikes. This admixture renders the soil very puFv, and after being moistened by the heavy dews it forms a thin brittle crust. It also deprives it of the customary cohesion, and wherever the soil has collected, as on the sides of the hills and valleys, the foot readily sinks six or eight inches. Climate. — Though much is within the tropics, it has few corresponding features. Tho temperature of the intertropical part is warm during the dry season, but is unusually cold and chilly at the opjwsite period ; it has thus a great range. Kain is a novelty almost through- out, and instead there are dense falling mists, called garuas, from May to August, which render the weather particularly unpleasant. In the northern part these cease with great suddenness, for in the Bay of Guayaquil the rains are very heavy, and at Tumbez, within half a degree, a shower is not seen for years together. To the south the two are gradually shaded off into each other, and at Valparaiso the rainy season is short and less regular, whilst at times there is something like the garuas. The absence of regular rain has been attributed to the south wind, which blows with much constancy ; and it has been observed that during the season of mists a light breeze from the opposite quarter is not unfre- quent. At Valparaiso the temperature is more in ac- cordance with its geographical position ; it is situated in 33<' S. lat., and during June and July, the two most unfavourable months, the range was from 40" to 04" the dews extremely heavy, but rain fell latterly. Flora. — Nothing that can be called forest exists, a few treec only being scattered sparingly about, and though much is within the tropic, corresponding characters are not strong. Cocos chilensis has a few individuals scat- tered about the valleys in the neighbourhood of Val- B P. 1? :}7'2 TIIK RKfilONS OF VEfJETATfON. * I U-! I, i paraiso, and the potato may bo seen liere growing wild on some of the hills ; a species of banibnsa is not un- common, and a salix is frequent in the valleys. The chief tree is cordia decandra, but many spots are not deficient in cultivated fruit trees. The plants recalling tropical features aie a/.ara serratn, krameria cistoidea, coriaria ruscifolia, cassia sp., mimosa cavenia, loasa acori- folia, amirola glandulosa, and croton lanceolatus. Cereus, opuntla, euphorbia, lobelia, calceolaria, and oxalis, are common. About Valparaiso are low thickets of shrubby compositae ; and nmaryllideu! and iridetv are numerous. On waste ground near Lima trop.volum majus abounds, with sida. datura, cestrum. alternanthera, Oenothera, asclepias, and calceolaria. In a few favoured valleys the ground is quite yellow with the multitudes of flowers of pancratium amencaes, whose expanding flowers are the signal for the commencement of the revels bearing its name. Relations. — The most interesting will be with the California Region, with which there is much similarity in climate, and some in productions through ageratum, mimulus, castilleja, rhus, ribes, berberis, and laurus. The prevalence of bulbous jdants in Chili confers some resemblance with the South Africa Region. XVI.— THE PAMPAS REGION. Extent. — That portion of South America between the Andes and the mouth of the Rio Plata is composed en- tirely of this peculiar district. To the north it extends to the neighbourhood of the towns of the interior, and ap- proaches the river Paraguay ; its exact outline is here imperfectly known. To the south it terminates in an r :l TIIK PAMPAS UKtJION. :J73 oblique line, extending from the Port of San Antonio to 'Ad" S. latitude on tlic west coast. Physical Characters, — A vast plain stretches on all sides, very slightly raised above the level of the sea, and only diversified in a few places by low hills. Some un- important rivers have their origin, and are often again lost in the soil. Reddish marl is mentioned as occurring, but is not perhaps general. To the south the soil is impregnated with saline matter. CuMATu. — The seasons are temperate, and their alter- nations produce a rapid change in the vegetation. Flora. — The remarks of Sir Francis Head on the features are appropriate. " The great j)lain of Pampas of the Cordillera is about 000 miles broad, and the part which I have visited, though in the same latitude, is divided into regions of different climate and produce. On leaving Buenos Ayres, the first of these regions is covered, for 180 miles with clover and thistles ; the second, which extends for 430 miles, produces long grass ; and the third region, which reaches the base of the Cordillera, is a grove of low trees and shrubs. The second and third of these regions have nearly the same appearance throughout the year; for the trees and shrubs are evergreens; and the immense plain of grass only changes its colour from green to brown ; but the first region varies with the four sea- sons of the year, in a most extraordinary manner. In winter, the leaves of the thistles are large and luxuriant, and the whole appearance of the country has the rough appearance of a turnip field. The clover, at this season, is extremely rich and strong ; and the sight of the wild cattle, grazing at full liberty in such pasture, is beautiful. In spring, the clover has vanished, the foliage of the thistle has extended across the ground, and the country still looks as if covered with a rough «rop of turnips. In 1374 Till-: ui'XnoNs or vkgktation. 11 I •, I; ■ loss than a niontli tlio cliango is most extruoriliiiary ; tlie wliolc region bcconu's hixiiriant with enornious tliistlos, which have suiltleiily shot, up to a height often or eleven feet, and are in full hlooni. # # * The suninier is not over before the scene undergoes another change; the thistles suddenly loose their sap and verdure; their heads droop, the leaves shrink and fade, the stems becou'e black and dead, and they remain rattling with the breeze one against another, until the violence of the pampero or hurricane levels them with the ground, where they rapidly decompose and disappear ; the clover rushes up, and the scene is again verdant." Ranunculaceoj, caryo- phylleas ^nd eruciterjr, make their appearance, and the low bushes are most probably chiefly com positie. Species of lathyrus, polygala, anemone, oxalis, lobelia, galium, plantago, and teucrium, arc also frequent. Relations. — There is a strong connexion with some of the European Regions through numerous genera, and some slight alliance with the South Africa Region. It is curious that an exotic thistle, cynara cardunculus, should have taken such entire possession of a large district, as to have obliterated nearly the whole of the spontaneous vegetation. Its luxuriance is so great, that the question arises, whether plants can ever find a situation more favourable to their existence than that in which nature has placed them ? The excessive developement also of psidium pomiferum, at Tahiti, would seem to require an affirmative. In general character there is some similarity with the Prairie Region, but the minuter features are different, and the latter is less fertile. f ■ 1 I-'! i. i.1 TirK I'ATACIONIA UKOION. 375 nury ; tlio s thistles, or eleven uer is not mge ; the heir heads 19 becoii'e the breeze anipero or here they rushes up, ;ea;, caryo- ce, and the e. Species ia, galiuni, ith some of enera, and pon. It is lus, should strict, as to ontaneous 18 question tion more ich nature nt also of require an similarity atures are XVII.— THE PATAGONIA UECION. Extent. — In the vicinity of Conception, a change takes place in the character of the vegetation, and in the climate ; tre(;3 commence, and heavy rains are exchanged for the peculiar climate of Chili and Peru. An imagi- nary line, commencing on the west coatt, in 3()" S. lati- tude, and extending obli(iuely to Port an Antonio, on the opposite side, separates the southern extremity of the continent, and with the adjacent islands constitutes the region. Physical Chahacters. — The Andes have now lost their stupendous size, and are continued as an inferior mountain range, of an average elevation of li,000 feet, rarely or never attaining 6,000 feet, and their appearance is wild, bleak, and desolate. Primitive rocks abound^ and granite greatly prevails ; towards the Straits of Magellan are various hornblendes and slates, and the latter appear favourable to vegetation, for fagus antarc- tica attains on it a great size, whilst a reddish sandstone is barren. Climate. — Moist and unfriendly for the latitude ; the number of rainy days is very great, and a thoroughly fine one is rather a novelty. Though the temperature is not in extremes, still the summer months are chilly. For the month of May, in the vicinity of Cape Horn, the mean temperature was 40°, the range from 30 to 48", and very equable through the day and night ; the faU of rain eight inches; dew-point 2" or 3" b low the atmo- sphere, the greatest being 7" or 8° ; hail frequent, with the temperature from 42" to 48". About Conception the climate is more agreeable, the temperature warmer, and the rain falls at logular seasons. ; I ( ,1. I :i7(; rilK in.OldNS (IK VKliKTA'IION. !' I \u ; l\ •r I'l.oKA. — lnt'f;ular groups of wood cover th«' Miii(iu'«', wherever tlie elimute is iiiodfMiite, and there is a mitiga- tion of its general austerity. The chief trees are as- sembled about Conception, and somewhat to the south is the principal station of auraucariu imbricata. Among these are fagus obIi(|ua, hiurus lingui, huirelia aronuitica, drymis ehilensis, (puulria lieteropliylla. At Tierra del I'uego and Staten \auu\, fagus antarctica, an evergreen sj)ecics, is frcijuent, and, assisted by others of a simihir habit, gives a peculiar character to the scenery. I'orster, the companion <)l* Cook, has described with some (piuint- ness the general features. " In the cavities and cre- vices c)f the huge jjiles of rocks, forming Tierra del I'ucgo and Staten Land, so very like each otlier, where a little moisture is preserved by its situation, and wherc^ from tlu; continued friction of the loose pieces of rocks, washed and hurried dou n tlio steep sides of the rocky uuisses,a few minute particles form a kind of sand; there, in the stagnant water, gradually spring up a few uigaccous plants from seeds carried thither on the feet, plumage, and bills of birds; these plants form at the end of each season a few atoms of mould which yearly increases; the birds, the sea, or the wind carries from a neighbouring isle, the seeds of some of the mossy plants to this little mould, and they vegetate in it during the proper sea- sons. Though these plants are not absolute mosses, they are, however, nearly related to them in their habit. We reckon among them the ixia pumila, a new plant which we call donatiu, a small melanthium, a minute oxalis and calendula, another little dioicous plant, called by us phyl- lachne, together with the raniaruui. These plants, or the greater part of them, have a peculiar growth, parti- cularly adapted to these regions, and fit for forming soil and mould on barren rocks. In proportion as they grow TIIK I'ATAOONIA HKCilON. :{77 a luitigu- ?H lire a>*- ic south in Anionj; iiroiuiiticn, rierm i\('\ cverj^rccu f a similar rorstt-r, me «inaiiit- and cre- Ti(!rra «lel lier, whero iiid wIhtc, s of rocks, the rocky \m\ ; there, V alj^accous , phimage, nd of each reases; the ighhourinj; ) this little ►rojjcr sea- losses, they labit. We lant which oxalis and jy us phyl- plants, or »wth, parti- )rming soil they grow up, ihey spread into various Ntetns aiul hranches, which lie as clos<'ly tof^clluT as possihle; they spread new seeds, and at last a lar^e spot is covered ; the lowermost tihres, roots, stalks, and leaves, p;radually decay uiul push forth on the top new verdant leaves; the decaying lower parts form a kitul of pcut or turf, which gradiuilly changes into mould ami soil. The close texture of these plants hinders the moisture helow from evaporating, and thus furnishes nutriment to the vegetation above, and clothes at last whole hills and isles with a constant ver- dure. Among the pumilous plants some of a greater stature begin to thrive, without in the least prejudicing the growth of these creators of moidd ami soil. Among these plants we reckon a sundl aibutus, a diuiinutive myrtle, a little dandelion, a small creej)ing crassula, tin; common pinguicida alpina, a yellow variety of viola palustris, statice armeria or s( a-jtink, a kind of burnet, the ranunculus lappouicus, tlic holcus odoratus, the com- mon celery, (apiuin austrah?,) with the arabis hetero- phylla. Soon after we observed, in places w hich are still covered with the above-mentioned, a new rush, (juncus triglumis,) a fine amellus, a most beautiful scarlet che- lone, (C. ruelloides,) and lastly even shrubby plants, viz. a scarlet-flowered shrubby plant of a new genus, which we called embothrium coccineum, two new kimJs of ber- berry, (berberis ilicifolia, b. nntior,) an arbutus with cuspidate leaves, (A. mucronata,) and lastly the tree bearing Aie winter's bark, (drynus winteri,) which, how- ever, in these rocky barren parts of Tierra del Fuego never exceeds the size of a tolerable shrub ; whereas in Success Bay, on a gentle sloping ground, in a rich and deep soil, it grows to the size of the larg ^t timber." Many of Forster's new names have now become as fa- 378 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. n ^f t'j miliar as household words to the botanist. Mossos and lichens abound here, biit ferns are scarce. The flora of the Falkland Islands is scanty, being composed chiefly of a few compositsc, gramineiE, lichens, and musci. Bolax glebaria is found here, and veronica dccussata as a shrub six feet high, but not fit for fire- wood, the deficiency of which is met by peat, whicli, Weddel says, is al indant. The South Shetlands have only some straggling grass and a lichen. Relations. — The relations are stronger with the tem- perate regions of the northern hemisphere than with those in its vicinity. With the former it has a number of genera in common, as, omitting those already men- tioned, betula, ribes, rubus, andromeda, vaccinium, auri- cula, cardamine, draba, lepidium, stellaria, hydrocotyle, anemoi.e, drosera, galium, tussilago, salix, carex, cy- perus, and usnea. With adjoining regions, fuchsia, myrtus, drymis, baccharis, escallonia, calceolaria, and chelone. With the South Africa Region, nothwithstand- ing a considerable dift'erence in the climate, gladiolus, ixia, wistenia, galaxia, and crassula. And with New Holland, araucaria, embothrium, ourisia, and mniarum. lis own peculiarities are due to the novelty of nearly the whole of the species, and to the genera gainiardia, astelia, callixene, philesia, drapetes, baea, pernettia, oligosporus, nassavia, bolax, azorella, donatia, aceena, hamadryas, and the curious misodendrum. A relation of identity with European regions is established through pinguicula al- l)ina, viola palustris, statice armeria, dactylis glomerata, and several mosses and lichens. tup: POLYNESIA RK(!ION. :]7i) SDS and being lichens, eronica 9r iire- wliich, ig grass le teni- m with number y men- [11, anri- 'ocotyle, rex, cy- fuchsia, ia, and thstand- lauiolus, h New niaruni. rly the astelia, osporus, yras, and y with cula al- inerata, I XVIII.-THE POLYNESIA REGION. Extent. — The various groups of islands composing tliis region have no great superficies, but possess many features of peculiarity and interest. The region by no means includes all the group of the Pacific Ocean, but only those which are more particularly designated as Polynesia. It comprises the Sandwich Islands, the Society Islands, the Manpicsas Islands, the Gambler Islands, the Harvey Islands, the low coral islands of the Dangerous or Ponioutou group, and t!»e Uadiick and U.'dick chains, with a few solitary detached, but unim- portant islands. Physical Characters. — There arc perhaps few spots wliere such an assemblage of jigreeable external circum- stances is met with, and where the visitor is assailed by so many favourable impressions. The climate is warm without being oppressive, the scenery partakes of all that variety nature can so well assume, where mountain, valley, and plain exist, and have e.acli their charms ; and where the vegetation is varied and sigrceable, with- out being in excess. The islands may be r« garded as so many mountains of basalt and lava, split by numerous valleys, and with their bases often dilated into plains, stretching v/ith various inclinations to the cliffs or coral reefs of the shores. The valleys are usually very steep, and contain the chief and richest soil, for the mountains often display precipices with the smoothness and regu- larity of artificial walls. Elsewhere are numerous pro- jecting masses of rocks, rendering certain parts entirely unfit for cultivation. Among the denser vegetation the soil is black from the mixture of organic matter, but on the |)lains it is fr(M|uontly (tf a d<;o|)-red colour, and may be used as a coart^c paint. This owes much of its exist- 380 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. -'ir '^L ence to the decomposition of the lava rock, and is very productive when supplied with abundance of water. The coral islands must be excepted from the above, as they have a low flat circular surface, with small patches of vegetable mould. Climate. — Within the influence of the trade-winds, and ever fanned by their breezes, the temperature of the region is not high for the latitude. It is something greater at the Society Islands to the south of the equator, than at the Sandwich Islands to the north. At Ho- nolulu, Sandwich Islands, Mr. Rooke's Observations for 1838, give the mean temperature as 77'^ 3, fall of rain '"M inches, fine days 285. rainy 37, variable 43. Simitar observations at the Society Islands are wanting. The quantity of rain in different places varies greatly ; and in the interior, near the highest land, the amount will be three or four times more than the above ; and places to windward will have less than others to leeward. From some observations, I am disposed to fix 193 feet of ascent as equal to one degree of the therraom Jter. The seasons at the two sides of the equator will be at different periods, and rains occur a little afier the summer solstice. At the Marquesas I found some relative temperatures to be, under the shade of vegetation 86" 5, the soil 80", the sun's rays partially obscured, 103". Flora. — The vegetation is not rich but interesting ; indeed it may be called a poor flora. Forest cannot be said to exist ; and the trees crowd up the valleys and less perpendicular ascents, with more the character of groves. Irregular patches of these diversify the aspect of the country, the intervals being filled with smaller vegeta- tion. Dracffina terminalis spreads over the valleys ; and the troublesome grass, centrotheca lappacea, covers every dry spot on the ridges and sides of the hills, and even of II THE POLYNESIA REIGION. 381 IS very •. The IS they shes of -winds, of the aething jquator, fit Ho- rvations fall of ible 43. lanting. greatly ; amount ve; and eeward. 193 feet The ifferent solstice, tures to 80°, the resting ; nnot be and less groves, of the vegeta- ns ; and s every even of the plains. The traes are not large but numerous, and want the great height attained in the genuine forest. The vegetation is otherwise peculiar, from its small and inconspicuous flowers, being deficient in size and richness of colour, the absence of fragrant properties to a great extent, and the leaves being mostly small, undivided, and of a dull shade of colour. I have thought that there were proofs here of plants degenerating towards the margins of the extent of their indigenous existence. Artocarpus incisa, broussonetia papyrifera, and aleurites triloba, grow nearly everywhere spontaneously. At the Society Islands they thrive vigo- rously, as large trees ; but on advancing eastward they gradually diminish in size and vigour till, in the Gambler group, they are hardly of any use to the natives ; and in Easter Island, where the two latter are found, they are low and useless bushes. The same circumstance may be noticed with th9 shells, cardium cardissa, terebra macu- lata, conus betulinus, purpura persica, and perhaps others. The Sandwich Islands hc^ve a superficies of 6,600 square miles. The prevailing families are, filices, very nume- rous ; a large proportion of compositae, cinchonaceae, leguminosae, malvaceoe, cyrtandraceae, labiatae, nrticeae, euphorbiaceae, piperaceae, and gramineae. The vegetation is more closely distinguished by several araliaceae, goode- noviae, lobeliaceae, amarantaceae, and pandaneae ; whilst the presence of cruciferae, saxifrageae, and umbelliferae, invests it with further peculiarities. Till recently no palm beyond the cocoa-nut was supposed to exist, but a species of chamaerops has been discovered. Orchidaceae have no existence. The peculiar genera are few, kadua, charpen- tiera, dubautia, and a few others. In Hawaii, Mouna Koa reaches 15,980 feet, and Mouna Koa 13,500 feet, and 1 I :J82 THE RECUONS OF VEGETATION. • "i i'< M have a vegetation with alpine features. Vaccinium, rubus, and fragaria are found here ; and when the flora shall be better known, a small alpine region will most probably become necessary. The Society Islands. These islands have a much smaller superficies, and a flora of only 500 species. They contain nearly the whole of the different species of the region south of the equator ; and there are very few not found at Tahiti, the largest of the group. The prevailing families of the Sandwich Islands exist equally here, the chief peculiarities depending on the presence of several cruciferae, on the comparative abundance of cinchonaceae, euphorbiaceae, and urticese, the scarcity of leguminosae, and through celtis discolor in possessing ulmaceae. Tke Marquesas yield nothing in natural beauty to the other islands, and have a flora hitherto very sparingly examined, but apparently identical with that of the Society Islands, though even less abundant. The self- introduced plants which fringe the shores are different from those of the same class at the Sandwich Islands, and evidently come from that part of the coast of America nearest at hand. Some species monopolize a large sur- face. Hibiscus tiliaceus runs far into the valleys, to the exclusion of everything else ; desmodium purpureum occupies the waste ground near the sea ; and centrotheca lappacea spreads higher upon the hills. The bread-fruit and cocoa-nut compose large groves. Tke Harvey Islands have a vegetation identical with the Society Islands. Rarotonga has the reputation of being the most picturesque island of the Pacific. It is very productive ; and the paramount object of the resi- dents at present is to exclude the guava-bush, which at Taliiti has sj)read so widely, obliterated the grass, and much other of the vegetation. THE POLYNESIA REGION. 383 einium, le flora 11 most , much . They 1 of the few not availing are, the several onaceae, minosae, |r to the paringly of the ["he self- different [ids, and (America rge sur- to the jureum trotheca ad-fruit al with ition of It is le resi- hich at iss, and Tlie Gambler Islands are volcanic islands set in coral reefs. The flora is the same as at the Society Islands. Metrosideros obovata has hitherto only been met with here. The Pomoutou Islands. These irregular coral islands are upwards of fifty in number. Their surface is com- posed of ragged fragments of dead coral, with a little vegetable mould in places ; and sometimes water is found a few inches beneath the surface. The flora is extremely limited, and, it must be inferred, in no respect original ; yet there are one or two plants at present not known to exist elsewhere. A collection of plants made by myself, with a few additions from other sources, gives a total amount of 47 species, which are referable to 40 genera, and 27 families. Lepidium piscidium disregards the heat, and appears wherever there is a little soil, and the parasitic cassythis filiformis mats together the bushes. The Radack and Ralick Chains^ though closely resem- bling the latter, are more productive, and cultivation is practised. Chamisso mentions 52 species, many of which are indigenous at the Sandwich Islands and Guahon. He also observes that the southern islands have a richer soil and older vegetation. Relations. — The existence of this region, as a whole, is very clearly defined ; the connexions with the nearest regions not being very intimate. Its relations are spread far and wide. In the Sandwich Islands there are afln- nities with New Holland through metrosideros, myopo- rum, exocarpus, cyathodes, and an aphyllous acacia ; with Europe are several jungermannia, and musci in common; besides, with North America and Asia, several identical species. In the Society Islands the affinities are strong- est with New Holland through metrosideros, myoporum, casuarina, and dodonaea ; but they have no representative 5 384 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. of epacrideie, as at the Sandwich Islands. From these latter they are further distinguished by the presence of ficus and several orchidaceae. With South America and Asia there are some relations, but tliey are not striking. Hhizophora has no existence. * .; J : •; n XIX. THE PAPUA OR NEW GUINEA REGION. Extent. — Several large and important islands, of which New Guinea is by far the most extensive, lying between the equator and 23° south latitude. Commenc- ing at the western extremity, the region includes the Moluccas, Papua or New Guinea, the former designa- tion being the most in use in the surrounding seas, the Admiralty Islands, New Britain, and New Ireland, the Solomon Islands, New Hebrides, New Caledonia, the Feejee Islands, Tonga archipelago, and Navigator's Is- lands. Physical Characters. — The scenery is bold and rugged, particularly about the Solomon group, and many of the islands are nothing but mountains. The forest, which abounds everywhere, rests on rocky declivities, with very little soil. In Papua and the Feejee Islands, there are extensive level surfaces of rich soil, apparently the deposit of rivers. There are several active volca- nos, and much of the structure is in every probability volcanic. Conglomerate, limestone, and stratified sand- stone occur in Papua. The islands of the Tonga group are curious flat tables of limestone, forty feet and up- wards alcove the level of the sea, and with deep water close to their wall-like cliffs. The elevation of the mountains of Papua is undoubtedly not so great as has been supposed, and along the whole extent of its northern i PAPUA OH \i:\V GUINEA REGION. •m:) sliure none are visible whicli at all approach the limit of perpetual snows. Climate. — Heat and moisture prevail, and render the climate a warm, and f'ruiu the productions, it is likely, a peculiar one. An anomaly exists in the distribu- tion of the seasons. It is customary for the south-east monsoon to brinjj the dry seasPii to the space over which it blows from May to October inclusive. The north- west monsoon prevails for tho remaining months of the year and accompanies the rains. The reverse happens over the extent of this region, for though the monsoons are not so powerfully felt at its eastern extremity, the cli- mate is everywhere the same. In the south-east mon- soon the rains are heavy and frequent, and the deposition must be very considerable. Flora. — Approaching this region from the eastward, the character of the flora as distinct from the Polynesian is very evident ; palmse become more numerous tiirough charaaerops, caryota, and areca ; pandanus has many spe- cies ; leguminosae, though more abundant than in the Polynesia Region, and compositae are not frequent, a j)roof of the usually moist stale of the atmosphere ; cycus first appears at New Ireland, and rhizophora in the rivers of the Feejees. However, it is a flora, with the exception of the Moluccas, almost unknown. Papua or New Guinea. — Forest covers everywhere this large and flue, but unhealthy, island, and presents a variety which perhaps makes it the most prolific of vegetable forms in the world. The vegetation is ex- tremely varied, and the species appear to have a limited range. Here, as elsewhere, it is chiefly on the margins of the forest, that flowers and lierbaceous plants are seen. The colours are generally little attractive, and white greatly prevails. This is partly compensated by VOL. II. C C il I '41 38G THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. ,! '! I'll the frequent fragrance of the flowers, and sometimes even of the foliaije. Legurninosae, solanese, and umbelliferee, are uncommon. Trees of achras and myristica are numerous in the forest, and tliere are several species of each. The nutmegs are without the aroma found in myristica moschata. This genus extends as far to the east as the Feejee Islands. Ferns of every variety of habit are most numerous, and orchidaceae abound. The Moluccas have a less compact forest, as open Spaces of bushes often occur, but a greai variety in its trees. They are remarkable, as the native country of the clove and nutmeg of commerce, pud of other aroma- tic prcductionis. Belatjons. — When the southern shores of New Guinea are better known, thr-rft will most probably be discovered many sources of n?serablance with New Hol- land. At present the most prominent are, casuarina, common throughout the region, melaleuca and eucalyp- tus in the Molucciis, and acacia laurifolia, an aphyllous species, in the eastern groups. A passiflora is common in the Feejee and Navigators' Islands. Agathis appears in the Moluccas, as well as in New Zealand, and the resin is largely used, under the name of dammar, to give light. •' i\M,y mi XX— THE AUSTRALIA TROPIC REGION. Extent. — The space between the iiorthern shores of New Holland and the limit of the tropic in 23°*28' south latitude. The genuine ch'irr.cters of this region are lost, even within this limit, towards the west coast, wh^ore at Point Leveque in 123° east longitude, it meets the west Australian region. mes even belliferse, itica are pecies of found in ir to the irariety of as open ety in its 3untry of !r aroma- of New jbably be "(ew Hol- casuarina, eucalyp- aphyllous ammon in appears and the ir, to give GION. shores of o'28' south n are lost, whore at the west AUSTKALIA TROl'lC HE(Jl()N. 3»7 Physical Cuaracters. — Little is known respecting it, the coast only having received a partial examination. The shores are generally low and sandy, often barren, but sometimes clothed with a rich and luxuriant vegeta- tion. Climate. — Tropical in temperature, but deficient in the usual amount of suspended moisture. Flora. — The thin forest of New Holland prevails, but partakes more of the usual tropical characters, and in some places is so dense and vigorous as to be almost impenetrable. In the vicinity of Van Diemen's Gulf spe- cies of eucalyptus, corypha, pandanus, acacia, and croton, form a thick vegetation. The shores are closely beset by rhizophora, brugiera, and carallia, all genera of rhizo- phorefe. Palmae are not numerous, and are represented by corypha, seaforthia, livingstonia, and calamus. Le- guminosee, as might be expected in such a climate, are very abundant ; also euphorbiaceai through croton and phyllanthus ; and coniferaj are present in podocarpus, callitris, and araucaria. A. excelsa is not here a large tree, but occasionally covers much space. CinchonacciB do not abound, and such as exist have Indian relations. Bignoniaceae have a few species. Cryptogamic plants, epiphytic orchidaceBe, and others with similar habits, and depending less on their roots for food than on the at- mosphere, are all infrequent. Loranthus, embracing as it does genuine parisites, is frequent on all the coasts of New Holland. Those plants so entirely characteristic of this continent, and which are developed so profusely in the metropolis of their existence, are still spread among the vegetation, but in reduced numbers. Proteaceae are nearly limited to grevillea, hakea, and persoonia ; the Australian myr- taceee are few ; diosmeae has only eriostemon and phe- C c 2 "i^ 3HH •niK UKCMONS OF VKOKTATION. s n ,'. f ' btiliuni ; eucalyptus has few species and individuals, and diminished vigour ; casuarina is gradually disappearing. Relations. — Mr. Allan Cunningham has had the best opportunities of exanjining the vegetation. In an ex- pedition directed to this part of the coast he collected 1500 species of phenogamous plants, of which 5*20 had been previously described. In a comparison between the east and north-west coasts in the parallel of 15°, and with an intervening space of 1,800 miles, he found only forty-eight species in common. He also gives a list of fifty-two Indian and South American plants, which are indigenous to Australia. (King's voyages, Appendix.) Umbelliferae have a few species, and there are some close relations with the flora of New Guinea and the Malay Islands. Among others, myristica is not uncommon on the northern and north-western coast. ,. M XXI.— THE NEW SOUTH WALES REGION. M ■ill I ■' ' ''I m ■ft Extent. — The British colony of New South Wales occupies a large portion of the east coast of New Holland. Our region is, however, more rigorously defined, and will comprise the east portion of the continent south of the tropic, and ceases to the west and south somewhere in the neiffhbourhood of the mouth of the Morumbridgee. Physical Characters. — The whole continent has been divided into two parts, the region of terraces, and the region of plains, sepai'ated by the 148th meridiun. Captain Sturt observes, that of the ridges which divide the latter, each presents a different rock formation, and also that he has noticed that the botanical and geological features are intimately connected. The Blue Mountains Ni:\V SOUTH WALKS RKCIlON. '.]H[) luuls, and tpeuring. 1 the best n un ex- I collected hich 5-20 )nipaiisoit e purullel I uiiles, he He also 3an plants, voyages, and there w Guinea tica is not coast. EGION. th Wales Holland, d, and will uth of the lere in the I2,ee. tinent has races, and meridiiin. lich divide lation, and geological Mountains attain no considerable elevation, scarcely exceeding 3,()()() feet, and form a wild and sterile barrier between two portions of the country. The soil varies, much is ex- tremely arid, and some is productive on slight cultivation. It is probably a variety which will soon wear out, and large tracts are required for grazing purposes. The kind of trees growing are regarded as a good indication of the quality of the soil ; the native apple (Angophora lanceo- lata) selecting a good soil, anti the spotted gum and stringy bark a bad. Uhagodia, sal.ola, and similar plants, are met with in places, and indicate a saline soil. After the wet season, ejdiemeral rivers traverse the country, and lose themselves either in sandy ])luins or chains of marshy ponds. At other seasons much of the surface is indifferently watered. Climate. — There is a great disposition to excess both in temperature and in dryness. The nmge of the ther- mometer is sometimes very great and sudden, being in the summer months from 36" to lOG", the mean 70"; and in the winter months from 27" to 98", the mean 06." At Sidney the number of rainy days is 107. There is evi- dently a strong adaptation of the vegetation to the climate and other physical agents. Flora. — It has been observed by many, that in the Australian vegetation there is a sombre dulness which en- tirely excludes any of tiiose lively and agreeable impres- sions it elsewhere so frequently creates. The forest, where it abounds, is not close and compact, but so open as to offer no obstruction to the passenger, and intervals are frequently occupied by dry stunted bushes, or straggling grass. Mr. P. Cunningham remarks that the trees are nearly all evergreens, with fewer branches, and compara- tively fewer leaves than European trees. Many shed their bark, and whilst the iiow has the appearance of a dead ■ :i!)o rHK HK(JI«)NH or VKOTTATION. ' t If .1 : » i trcu pealed, tliu oM hark is hun^in^ in \ooHe ttliredH and Hakes, f^iviii;^ the whole niiieh the eharaeier of an aHseni- hla^^e of (lead tr(onH p;land8, or stoniata, on hofh Hiirfiices of the leaf. Nor when vej^etation has ceased does the decay of the deconiposiiii; jiarts impart the nsnal fertility, for (^iptain Hturt conc«ives that the decayinjj^ leaves and tiniher, instead of addinss in the numerous curious and handsome Howers ; but on their disappearance the vejjjeta- lion soonbecomos parched and uninteresting. The wood of the trees possesses to an important extent the pro- perty of incombustibility, which is supposed to be due to the presence of aluminous earth. The botanist must take a closer inspection, and here finds a novelty and pleasure the more general observer is de- prived of. The various species of eucalyptus, nearly a hundred in number, compose the chief bulk of the forest ; it has been estimated at four-fifths. They are fre(|uently trees of enormous dimensions, except within the tropics, where they are also fewer. Exocarpus cuprcssiformis is the commonest tree of New Holland, without the tropics. Casuarina has many species, which have the local name of oaks. LeguminosvB are very abundant, the decandrous papilionaceous kinds prevail, as pulteneea, gompholobium, and dillwynia; and the aphyllous species of acacia are almost peculiar. Compositte are liberally re[)rcsented by the tribe c uro very niimeroiiH as species, hut not us individuals, always growing sjtarinf^ly, and sometimes arc extremely rare; those which are epiphytic cease at 34" S. latitude, and are more abiUKhint in this region than the tropical. Palnne extend to the same limit. Protea- ccui, myrtaceii!, and t^pacrideu;, abound in ;;reat ninnhers in peculiar genera, and intermingled with diusmeiv, goodenovia;, myf)porinea!, stylideie, restiaceu', treman- dreu!, polygaleje, and dilleniaccie, impress very distino tive peculiarities. Oyptogamic plants are not so abun- dant as usual, owing to the dryness of iho climate, the absence of large trees in many situations, and the deci- duous bark. A tree-fern, dicksonia antarctica, extends through the region, even into Van Diemen's Jjand. ItuLATiuNs. — It is not a little singular, that identical species of European plants appear here in greater numbers than in Houth Africa, or other intervening regions. IJr. Urown's experience renders his observations valuable. " In comparing very generally the Hora of the principal parallel, (between 3.i" and 35" S. latitude) of Terra Aus- tralis, with that of South Africa, we find seven.l natuial families characteristic of the Australian vegetation, us proteacetc, diosmete, restiacea*, polygaleir, and also buttencriaceu), if hermannia and mahernia be considered as part of this order, existing, and in nearly e(|ual abun- dance, at the Cape of Good Hope ; others are replaced by analogous families, as epacrideie by ericete ; and aoine tribes, which form a considerable part of the Australian peculiarities, as dilleniaceis, the leafless acnciie, and eucalyptub, are [entirely wanting in South Africa. On the other hand, several of the characteristic South African orders and extensive genera are nearly or entirely want- ing in New Holland ; thus, irideit, mesembryanthf.- mum, pelargonium, and oxalis, so abundant at the Cajio of (jiood Hope, occur very sparin^jly in Now Holland, I 392 TIIK llEOIONS OF VEGETATION. wliero the South Afiican genera aloe, stapelia, clifFor- tia, penrea, and brunia, do not at all exist. Very few species are common to both countries, and of these, the only one which is at the same time peculiar to the southern liemisplicre is osmunda barbara."* Ijl »i ■ "'1 XXIL— THE WEST AUSTRALIA REGION. Extent.— The tropical features of New Holland are not fully developed on the north-west coast, which makes it necessary to extend the limits of this region in this . direction. \i w'll thus occupy the western portion of the continent from 1'23" E. long., and become mingled with the New South Wales Region on the south coast in the neighbourhood of the Morrumbidgee, the interior of the contirent being unknown. Physical Characters. — It is a feature in New Holland that the shores are invested by a broad belt of sandy soil, which gives them a very unprepossessing aspect to the stranger, and most of all to the settler. This is succeeded by grassy and thinly-wooded plains. Such is particularly the character of this vegion. At a little distance from the coast is a parallel, but irregular and broken, range of hills ; and others detached are spread over the country. Basaltic rocks are not unfrequent, but that kind of sanustonc known as ironstone, cliiefly prevails, and forms the basis of the plains. Limestone is also not unusual. This surface generally is indif- ferently supplied with streams. Climate. — Similar to that of New South Wales, but not so liable to extremes of tc" perature or to long droughts. At Perth the average temperature in Fc- • Flindcr's Vo) sigcs, Appendix, Vol. ii,. p. r)88. ':. i f! m Il1 VAN DIEMKN S F.ANO RFfilON. ;]9:? bidiiry, at four p.m. wns 84«, in August ()3«, and at ten a m. respectively, 81" and ()()". The mean of these hours thrrughout tlie year are 72° 1 and 69" 5, January, February, and March, are the months of greatest heat and aridity. Flora. — The phvnts of ihis coast are almost entirely distinct from those of the east coast, but with King George's Sound they are strikingly identical. This pe- culiarity, however, is chiefly confined to species. The most charactertstic plants are species of casuarina, callitris, zamia, exocarpus, xanthorrhoca, and kingia australis, and nutysia florii)un«la. Eucalyptus has few ppecies, and angophora is not knovvn. (Broion in Journ d Geographical Society.) The northern limit of xan- thorrhoca is at 28° S. hit. The vegetable produc ions, then, of this region are suflicicntly peculiar, for whilst it fully retains Australian features, its closer forms are its own. Relations. — South African ferns are more abundant than in any other j)ortion of the continent, and this is conspicuous even in its j)roteacece. An Euroj)can plant, arenaria marina, is met with. t I I XXIII.— THE VAN DIEMEN'S LAND RE(JION. Extent. — The ii^land so called, situated between 40" 42' and 43" 43' S. lat., and having an area of 17,192 square miles. Physical Characters Van ])iemen's Land has fewer ofthosc extremes so frequent in the neighbouringcontinent. The surface is occuj)led by fertile plains, occasionally swelling into hill and dale, and sometimes raised into ranges of inconsiderable elevation. Ben Lomond, to the 1- 394 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. ' H' j m north-west, attains 4,200 feot, and Mount Wellington, near Ilobart Town in the south, about 13,700 feet. In the vicinity of the rivers are large plains with good soil, and covered only with an herbaceous vegetation. The whole island is available, and rarely unfit for cultivation. Cl!MAte. — With our European notions of climate, this would be considered cold for the latitude. The seasons are more regular, and the distribution of heat and moisture more equable, than in New South Wales. The smaller range of temperature is attributable to its ini^ular position, and the humidity to the prevalence of southerly winds. Flora. — There is a freshness and variety about the vegetation denied to New Holland. Though possessing many of its distinctive groups, the species are to a great extent limited ; its epacrideaj, proteaceaj, and myoporinete have even peculiar genera. Eucalyptus, though with fewer species, attains here its greatest developemtnt. Among its trees are podocarpus asplenifolius, dacrydium taxifolium, exocarpus cupressiformis, carpodontos lucida, atherosperma nioschata, zieria arborescens, tasmannia australis, t. fragrans, with species of gaulthei'ia, poma- derris, and fagus. Cryptogamic plants are numerous, and some are identical with the European. Dicksonia antarc- tica, an arborescent fern, is met with. Relations. — The connexions of the vegetation are widely extended. With the more temperate parts of Europe there are many genera in common, as stellaria, linum, viola, clematis, anemone, ranunculus, veronica, drosera, geranium, polygonum,, cardamine, and nastur- tium. With the South Africa region more particularly, by pelargonium, eliclirysum, and oxalis ; with North Atnerica, by gaultheria and ac.er ; and with the Malaisia region, by podocarpus. NKW ZKAr^AND RF.dlON. 390 XXiV.— THE NEW ZEALANJ3 REGION. Extent.— Two islands situated between 34" and 48" S. lut., an\ ,H I' Tange are lower ; at Stellenbosch the mean of one year's observations was 66" 3, range fronj 87" to 50° ; at Zwart- land the mean 66o 5, range from So* to 54°. The year is divided into the cold or rainy season, which lusts from May to October, and the warm or dry season, from November to April. From the same we have some facts on the hygroscopic condition of the atmosphere obtained near False Bay from December to March. At sunrise the ordi- nary dryness was 6° or 7°, the extreme from 1*2° to 3". The maximum at noon was 2l)0, the greatest range within the day 35", mean dryness of the morning 7", of the noon 14°, and further minimum dryness scarcely a fourth of the atmospheric capacity for moisture. Flora. — This portion of Africa presents a good speci- men of a particular variety of vegetation, where there is an intimate relation between the flora and external influencing circumstances, and a close adaptation of the organs of plants to the duties required of them. In many respects this is highly conspicuous ; the leaves are often very small or minutely divided, and clothed with hairs, or to- mentose, or lanuginose investments; many species are provided with fleshy succulent leaves, which do not part readily with their ju'ces, and serve as so many magazines of nourishment, whilst the very numerous bulbous plants are eminently adapted to a climate which, for a long season, is extremely arid; at this time the bulbs retain their vitality without requiring any nourishment, and are ready to assume activity on the appearance of the rains. The want of moisture, equally with low temperature, as seen in northern regions, would seem productive of a low, stunted, bushy vegetation, and is also characterised by the frequency of spinous organs, the disagreeable effects of which are expressed in the quaint name of wait-a-bit, given to acacia detinens. The colours of the flowers are usually rich and SOUTH AFRICA REGION. 391) brilliant, the brightness of the solar rays, assisted by a clear atmosphere, having developed them in the most per- fect manner. Pink, yellow, and white flowers greatly pre- vail, with a rare mixture of those tamer colours seen in a luxuriant vegetation under a moist atmosphere. Though the flowers are not conspicuous for their fragrance, this is frequent in the foliage; vo observe this in various pelargonium cultivated with us, and on the spot in species of diosma, compositse, and the numerous stupelia, if the carrion odour of the latter can be so called. The mention of a beautiful provision of nature must not be omitted, particularly as it involves a departure from fl general rule. The capsules of several species of mesem- bryanthemum refuse to open except when moistened by the rains, lest, opening in a dry season, they should shed their seeds on an unprepared soil. The very numerous species which constitute the flora of South Africa belong, lo a considerable extent, to genera which are peculiar ; and even when it shares its natural families with other regions, its genera are rarely extended to them ; as in proteacece, legumiuosoe, irideae, compositse, rosaceae, and crucifera;. It is only in particular situations that forest exists, giving shelter to numerous savage buflu- loes. The largest trees are ilex crocea, curtisia faginea, cunonia capensis, taxus elongata, laurus teterrima, olea ca- pensis, tarchonanthus camphoratus, t. arboreus, brabejum stellatum, acacia vera, ekebergi? capensis, and various pro- teacesB, gardenia, and rojena. We will glance hastily over the prevailing families and their more peculiar genera. ProteacecB abounds in protea, serrularia, leucospermum, lorocephalus, spatalla, mimetes, and nivenia; Legumi- nojcB has liparia, lebeckia, aspalathus, borbonia, les- sertia, psoralia, podalyria, and schotia; EricacecE, the very numerous and interesting group of erica, and tli( far 4(10 TIH': RKGFOXS OF VK(JKTATION. w '> : •' i i) >' I.' m f:!i smaller genus bloL'ria; JJiotiinef/! prevail extensively in diosina, agathosma, adcnandra, and buryusitna; Aaclc- piadecp, th-i numerous and strange stapelia, with hucrnia and gornphoearpus ; Crassulncece, a family with some kin- dred habits, is represented in crassula, rochea, leptas, and cotyledon ; Ficoidetey by the various mesembryanthemum, with tetragonia and hynienogyne; Po/i/gafece, in polygala, muraltia, and mundia; Cornpositce \ire\a.i\ extensively, and many are charact' ized h\ tli t peculiar texture of tbo ilower bei yM^Mg tr :.v»»riA«LiiJ:;i. Most of the follrwing genera are pecul'ar . v:l;yo! oma, arctotis, othonna, osteo- spermuni, tarchonantlii , spl;. "vne, erichrysum, cacalia, pteronia, berckleya, and gazania, Orch'ulacecp cannot be supposed to be abundant ; disii and satyrium find conve- nient localities on the Table Mountain, and some of them are scarce; Iridece abound in ixia^ gladiolus, tritonia, watsonia, hesperantha, sparaxis, babiana, and trichonema ; Amaryllideoi equally so in hacmanthus, strumaria, bruns- vigia, nerine, cyrtanthus, and gethyllis. There are yet several important genera requiring notice : euphorbia has a group of species which simulate the habit of cacteae, and supply their place ; aloe has a great variety of species, and others are frequent, in oxalis, phyllica, restio, struthiola, cliifortia, roella, hypoxis, encomia, Hiassonia, lachenalia, and streletzia. Heliophila, a cruciferous genus, is monomic. Lobelia, cestrum, lyceum, chironia, and others prevail. Two families also claim to be regarded as monomic, — bru- niacese and penaeacese. Climbing plants are uncommon, as are also cryptogamic. Some ferns are found on the sides of the Table Mountain, the particular flora of which has other evidences of a moister atmosphere. The mass of the vegetation is to a great extent confined to the colony, and several of its more peculiar groups, ericacea?, proteacea^, diosnieac, and restiaceaj, do not appear on the arid karroo, li>'' XXVL— THE MOZAMBIQUE REGION. Extent. — That portion of the east coast of i^ frica be- tween 10° N. lat. and the south tropic in 23" 28' has been so little visited, that nothing is known of its vegetation, ex- cept that it is clothed with rich forests, and has a climate in all respects tropical. Physical Characters. — Spacious plains abound near the coast, traversed by considerable rivers, and liable to partial submersion. Climate. — Tropical, moist, and frequently unhealthy, but well suited to the growth of the nutmeg, cinnamon, VOL. II. P t> 11 THE MOZAMllKiUK IlKfllON. 401 which is occupied by gregarious species of lyneum, acacia, euphorbia, and mesembryanthemum. Some have a very limited range, and the ppecies of stapelia abound more • irticularly on the arid si^.hJs of the v est coast. Felations. — The various relations of a region so com- 'letc as that af South Africa must be Uremely interesting; «nd it w !ems probable that so rich a vegetation, with a liberal hand, gives more representatives to other regions than it receives froin them. Passing over a more extensive view of its relations, we will confine our notice to groups having their chief existence elsewhere. A few of the genera of Europe, North America, and Siberia, have species here ; the pres( nee also of salix, bryonia, and viola, recalls a dif- ferent latitude and climate. In common with the north- eastern portion of Africa, it has acacia vera, cucumis colo- cynthis, and a zizyphus; and has an affinity with New PIol- land in metrosideros angustifolia. Several introduced plants are becoming diffused, as solanum nigrum, sonchue oleraceus, and polygonum persicaria. hi 402 THE REdlONS OF VEOETATION. and similar productions of a tropical climate in its excess. Flura. — r'urthcr than that it abounds in luxuriant forest, and supplies us with Coluinba-root and a few other articles of commerce, little is known concerning it, and the native rulers are too jealous of foreigners to permit any examina- tion of the interior of the country. Kelations. — It differs so entirely from the regions to the north and south, that the propriety of its separation from them seems undoubted. i^> III i(( XXVII.— THE MADAGASCAR REGION. Extent. — The large and fruitful island of Madagascar, situated between 12° and 26° S. lat., and the far smaller islands of Bourbon, Mauritius, and the Sechelles. Physical Characters. — In Madagascar, extensive fer- tile plains extend from the shores towards a lofty range of mountains in the interior. The soil is represented as rich and highly productive, and extensive marshy districts are occupied as rice-fields. Climate. — Tropical, moist, and in some parts of Mada- gascar extremely fatal to human beings. Flora. — Just enough of the productions of Madagascar are known to assure us they are peculiar, and to stimulate research. The vegetation is luxuriant, and varied with the usual aspect of the tropics. The natural family of chlenaccciD is confined to it ; areanthes and other orchidaceae abound. Tanghinia veneniflua, yielding a most energetic poison, and hydrogeton fenestralis, remarkable for the structure of its leaves, are both natives. Several species of the small family of homalinese are found in the islands, and also the myrtaceous genus jossinia. ! i' TIIK WEST AFRICA UE(iI()\. 403 The Mauritius has rather nn extensive and tolorahly well-known flora, and with a fair proportion of peculiar species. Danais and chasalia arc conflned to it. Bourbon closely resembles the Mauritius. The SicheUes are chiefly remarkable for a double- fruited variety of cocos nucifera, which is produced on three of the islands. Relations. — From its position, Madagascar would seem to belong to Africa, but such observations as have been in- stituted on its flora and that of the neighbouring coast, point out decidedly stronger affinities with India. Kd- wardsia is common both to New Zealand and the Mau- ritius. i XXVIII.— THE WEST AFRICA REGION. Extent. — A considerable tract of country, inhabited by many populous nations, situated between the Great Sa- hara or central desert of Africa and the Atlantic Ocean, and Cape Blanco, in 20" 55, N. lat., and 23° 28, S. lat, or the south tropic. Physical Characters. — In the neighbourhood of the coast the surface is composed chiefly of level plains, broken occasionally by ranges of low hills, and with chains of lofty mountains in the background, of primitive formation. Much of the soil is alluvial, and surprisingly productive ; and the banks of the numerous rivers are low, and during a part of the year extensively overflowed by the rising of the waters. At the mouth of some of the rivers are large salt-water marshes, covered by mangrove and other congenial plants. But salt, so abundant in other parts of Africa, is here in the interior so scarce as to be greatly prized, I) D 2 404 THE REGIONS OF VE(»ETATTON. . ,■> Climate. — Tropical, and generally moist; but. in the vicinity of the desert partaking of its aridity. Fi.oiiA.— Over this extensive surface there is little variety in the vegetation ; the same forms are continually repeated, and there is a scarcity of some of those elsewhere so abundant in the tropics. Palmar have few species ; elais guinoensis, phoenix spinosa, raphia vinifera, and the cocoa-nut, are the chief. Musaceiv, scitaniineo;, piperaccw, are scarce. Yet there is a denseness and luxuriance in the vegetation hardly surpassed in any other part of the world. 'J 'he forest is extensive and ma!»nificent, the trees attaining a large size ; and on the banks of the rivers which have been navigated some have been seen of enor- mous dimensions. Cinchonacea;, Icguminosas and mal- vaceae abound; ficus, cassia, acacia, and euphorbia have many species. Some of the more conspicuous belong to bombax, adansonia, sterculia, cadaba, parkia, hoflandia, melhania, pentadesma, cratceva, capparis, grewia, ptero- carpus, psychotria, bignonia, avicennia, anona, and panda- nus candelabrum. The Cnpe de Verd Islands have, perhaps, a less varied and vigorous vegetation than the coast. St. Helena^ situated in 16° S. lat., has the character of a very poor flora, but of which the members are nearly alto- gether peculiar. Of 61 species, two or three only have been noticed elsewhere. Ferns, grasses, compositae, and the cocoa-nut and date-palm, are met with, but th^t climate is ungenial, and the sugar-cane scarcely thrives. The peak of Diana is elevated 2,692 feet. Ascension Island is situated in 7° S. lat. The Green Mountain attains 2,818 feet. Some of the caves are ver- dant with ferns. Grasses are in proportion numerous, and portulacca oleracea, euphorbia origanoides, asclepias curas- savica, convolvulus arenarius, and carex pedunculata, over- run the plains. THE CANAIiY IHLANUM UE(tlON. 405 Uklations. — Between the tropical portioiiH of Asiii, Africa, and America, many of the natural families are shared in common ; thus we see combretaceic, meliacenc, ochnaceiv, 8a})indacetc, terebintacea^ anonaccii;, sapote^u, and potaliacciu, all essentially tropical groups, freely repre- sented in each. Frequently the genera are in common, but beyond this the relations are feeble. Still some exten- sive families are only sparingly represented, as passifloren;, melastomaceeu, iiiyrtace'u, and loranthaceic. It is probable that when the vegetation of the base and flanks of the Cameroon Mountains shall be known, they will require a separate consideration. Their supposed elevation is 10,000 feet. XXIX.— THE CANARY ISLANDS REGION. jr of a alto- have and limate The Ireen he ver- ks, and Icuras- over- Extent. — These islands are in the same parallel at the Great Sahara, being situated off that part of the African coast where that desert meets the ocean, and are thus situ- ated, in a geographical position, between the Barbary Re- gion and the West Africa Region. In addition to the islands more properly known as the Canaries, the region includes the fertile island of Madeira, with the almost desert Porto Santo and the Dezertos, and the Azores. Physical Characters. — The islands of these groups may be regarded as so many mountains rising above the ocean to considerable elevations. Teneriffe attains 12,176 feet, and the highest part of Madeira, 6,233 feet. Their plains and valleys abound in a fer lie soil, the productiveness of which is further insured by its volcanic origin, insular position, copious supply of moisture, and warm atmosphere. In some parts lava prevails so completely as to exclude vege- 4(IG TilE UE(;i(>NS (»F VWJirrATION. 1. r.. I Lm! tution, and those islands with .'in aspect towards the coast of Africa are mat'.'rially I'fected by its arid breezes. Climate. — The temperature is warm and even, but some parts are subject to considerable depression from sudden gusts, which sweep A\e cold air from the summits. The mean of Funchal, Madeira, is 65°, number of rainy days /3, and fall of rain 31 nches. At Santa Cruz, Te- neriffe, the mean is 71". Tl i temperature given for the alpine regions of vegetation sre calculated ; thorie used by Spix and Von Martius are assumed from the calculations of Howard ; we therefore pasi» them over till we possess strictly observed data. Flora.- -This must be regarded as an alpine region, and the different portions of its flora have been described by Plumboldt, Von Buck, Von Martius, and Kuhl. There is, howt • er, some discrepancy between their statements ; for not only are the alpine regions of Teneriffe made to differ from those of Madeira, but also from the rest of the Canaries. In attempting to reduce them to mutual con- sistency we shall follow out the views we have previously expressed on this si'bject.* Teneriffe has been ably examined by Humboldt, and his regions are nearly natural. 1. The Region of Lowland Cultivation extends to 1 ,800 feet. It is distinguished by the presence of a few tropical forms; draca»na draco, phoenix dactylifera, chamjtr -os hu- milis, musa pa^adisaica, m. sapientum, arborescent euphor- bias, and some species of mesembryanthcmum from Africa, meet species of cactus from America. 2. The Region of the Woods extends to 7,200 feet. These woods are lofty and extensive, and comprise laurus indica, 1. fd'tuns, 1. nobilis, rhamnus glandulosa, erica * London Jo'.iriml of Butun^v for iMarch, 1U4'2. TIIK CANARY ISLANDS RKCJlON. 407 feet. aurus erica arborea, erioa texo, qucrcus eanaricnsis. Ferns are nume- rous. A convenient subdivision may be established, since the pines occupy only the upper part of this region for the breadth of 25,000 feet; thus constituting — 1, the sub- region of laurels to 5,400 feet; 2, the sub-region of pines to 7,*200 feet. 3. The Region of Shrubs. — Spartium nubigenuni abounds, and not much else, for the surface is chiefly vol- canic ashes. 4. The jHegion of Grasses. — Scrophularia glabrata, viola cheiranthifolia, and the cruciferous plants, cheiranthus longifolius, c. frutescens, c. scoparius, erysimum bicorne, crambe strigosa, c. laevigata, are met with. 5. The Region of Cryptogamic Plants. — It contains only urceolaria and oilier lichens. Madeira^ as the name implies, was formerly covered with woods, but the early cultivation of the sugar-cane, and sub- sequently of the vine, and still more recently the adoption of grazing, has produced a total change in the original fea- tures of the vegetation. 1. The Region of Lowland Cultivation extends to 2,000 feet. The agave, plantain, date, pomegranate, and fig all thrive well. Of sixty species found here, 36 are common to the north of Europe, 17 to southern Europe and northern Africa, and 7 peculiar to the Canary Region. Among them is scarcely a genus with more than one species. 2. The Region of Woods extends to 3,000 feet. The trees are not numerous ; castanea vesca, pinus canariensis, laurus fsDtens, 1. indica, clethra arborea. In thirty-two species, eight only are European, the remai ider being pe- culiar. Here, therefore, the flora is more characteristic, and introduced plants have not attained this elevation. 0. The Region of Shruhs c\tcndii io the loftiest part of the island. Spartium scoparium, cytibus divuricatus, erica 408 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. 1,1* ;*^i' ,1, J scoparia, and vaccinium padifolium, abound. Grasses, be- longing to cynosurus, aira, and agrostis, begin to appear on the higher Ktations. In M.tde ira succulent plants are frequent ; the trees have coriaceous leaves, and the northern families of amentaceae, saxifragese, and caryophyllese, are uncommon, as are the tropical families of euphorbiacese and malvacese. Of com- positse, the tribe of corymbiferse is scarce, but cichoraceae abundant. The Axores are situated something to the north of the other islands. Like them they are volcanic, with bold scenery, scarped rocks, deep ravines, and a general elevation of the surface from 2.000 to 5,000 feet. The indigenous flora is scanty, but the clinate is good, and highly suited to the growth of tropical and such other fruits as have been introduced. From their supposed comparatively recent origin, the early history and subsequent diffusion of vegeta- tion might be satisfactorily studied here. Relations. — In such a region a considerable change must have been produced by the extinction of native plants* and the introduction of others. Its affinities are more copious with Europe than south Africa. The species of cactus are regarded as instances of migration from America, and dracasna draco is supposed to have come originally from India. Of 62 plants collected at Teneriffe in Kotzebue's first voyage, 30 were peculiar to our region, 30 common with Europe, and 2 with Africa. Von Buch mentions 533 species as belonging to the Canaries, of which he considers 162 as introduced. I THE BARBARY REGION. 409 XXX.— THE BARBARY REGION. !| Extent. — The northern part of Africa, embracing the states of Morocco, Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoli, is separated by the Great Sahara from the rest of the continent, and to the west is beaten by the wa'-os of the Atlantic, whilst to the east it extends nearly to the delta of the Nile. The Atlas range of mountains forms an important portion of this region ; and, when better known, will most probably con- tain its greatest peculiarities. There are also some other mountains of considerable elevation. Physical Characters. — With much dry and barren land, there are also extensive districts of great fertility. The soil is generally sandy, but productive when supplied freely with moisture ; and the neighbourhood of the Atlas mountains is indicated as possessing much that is rich and fertile. From the elevated lands numerous streams descend to the plains; those towards the north finding an outlet in the Mediterranean Sea, whilst those falling to the south are chiefly lost in the thirsty sands of the desert The highest ascertained part of the Atlas range is 1 1,400 feet, is in the vicinity of Morocco, and clothed with perpetual snow. Salt marshes and lakes, and saline soils, are all of frequent occurrence. Climate. — The heat is great, but not so oppressive as in Egypt or Arabia, in the same latitude. At Algiers the mean of the year is 70°, of the summer 80"2, and of the winter 61°4. Vegetation is in its greatest vigiour in autumn, after the rains. It is then that a crowd of herba- ceous plants hasten to spread abroad their beauty, retiring rapidly as the moisture disappears ; leaving a bushy vegeta- tion to struggle with the parching atmosphere of the dry months. 410 THE RECjIIONS OF VEGETATION. l^ Flora. — Only a partial examination has been made, and our chief acquaintance with the veg'etation is due to M. Defontaines. It is owing to this that a very powerful con-^ nexion has been traced with the vegetable productions on the northern shores of the Mediterranean. When our knowledge of the interior is more complete, a greater pro- portion of peculiar forms will undoubtedly be discovered ; at least such is a fair inference from what is observed else- where. Upwards of 2,000 species are known, and it has been remarked that, though a great number are peculiar, they belong to genera shared with Europe. In 344 woody kinds, about a hundred are peculiar. Those groups of plants which prefer a dry warm atmosphere, such as legu- minosac, malvaceae, labiatae, solaneae, caryophyileae, and certain compositre, prevail. Among characterising genera may be mentioned rhus, zizyphus, vitex, viburnum, dios- pyros, pistacia, celtis, tamarix, juniperus, thuja, olea, adonis, verbascum, smilax, cercis, cistus, nerium, and agave. Pinus halepensis grows in large forests, and other species are frequent; a large surface is occupied by phoenix dactylifera. On the Atlas range are many quercus, and fagus, alnus, salix, with many herbaceous genera common to Europe. Relations.— We separate this from the Nile region, on account of its alpine vegetation ; and from the European regions, though undoubtedly some affinities are great, since the same combination of alpine and lowland vegetation does not occur in any of them. The alpine features more closely coincide with the Pyrenees, whilst those of the plains recall Italy and the south-east of Europe. THK NILE KEGiON. 411 XXXI.— THE NILE REGION. A il agave. Extent. — The whole portion of country traversed by the Nile and its tributary branches. Towards its source the elevation of the surface compensates for the lower lati- tude, producing a milder climate and corresponding vege- tation. It thus embraces a broad belt of country between the Red Sea and the Great Sahara, by which its isolation from other botanical regions is rendered nearly complete. Physical Characiers. — There is much diversity in the surface. The valley of Lower Egypt presents an uniform plain, almost without a hill, and subject to the periodical inundations of the Nile. Gradually a chain of bare and rugged mountains converge towards the river, leaving the intervening valley with only the breadth of a few miles. Upper Egypt assumes a bolder character ; the banks of the Nile become rocky, and the inundations far less general. In Nubia, for this reason, the river is sometimes unap- proachable, and a laboured irrigation is practised. Abys- sinia is traversed by piles of mountain masses of extreme barrenness, and with intervening valleys, whose rich and productive soil is some compensation for their sterility. There is here a general elevation of the surface, and some of thp mountains attain a great height. Egypt has been justly considered a granary with almost an unfailing supply; a productiveness which is dependent more on the overflow- ings of the Nile, than on any inherent richness of its some- what sandy soil. Climate. — Few regions would, perhapp, supply us with more interesting sources of the adaptation of the vegetation to the climate, if we were furnished with the necessary information. The temperature is warm ; that of Lower Egypt particularly so, the mean sumnier heat of Cairo 412 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. being 92". liain is scarce ; the dews, however, are heavy. Rain is more frequent about the Delta, and in the vicinity of the coast, than elsewhere. Thunder and lightning are even more uncommon than rain. The seasons are not very strongly marked, and run imperceptibly and rapidly into each other. Summer commences in June, and lasts till September. Autumn succeeds. The cold season begins in December, and lasts two months; and in February spring makes its appearance. Hai^est succeeds in seven or eight weeks to ihe sowing ; and the trees lose their leaves in the cold seasons, and are rapidly replaced by new. The inundations of the Nile, to which Egypt owes its vast fertility, are due to the autumnal rains of Abyssinia. Their effects are visible in the first week of July, when the river begins to swell; and, continuing to increase, has reached half its augmentation in August, and its greatest in the latter days of September. For two weeks it con- tinues stationary, till on the 10th of November it has fallen one-half, and afterwards continues to decrease till the 16th of May, when it has reached its lowest. Flora. — For three months the vegetation of Egypt is bathed in the overflowing waters of the Nile. As these subside a rapid vegetation ensues, the period of fructifica- tion is hastened and has passed away, and during the remainder of the year a parching tridity prevails. The superior luxuriance belonging to the former would be greatly misplaced in the latter ; and, regarding the charac- ter of the vegetation, that particular variety has been dis- pensed to it which is congenial to the dry seasons, and will survive the inundation. It is not be expected that the flora will be numerous ; and the aspect of the country is uniform and tame, being only relieved by some accidental trees of mimosa, zizyphus, phoenix^dactylifera, and cucifera thebaica. Abyssinia is more fruitful, and contains many THE NILE UEGION. 413 ypt is these ictifica- ng the The uld be charac- en dis- nd will lat the ntry is idental ucifera many spots of rich variety, and patches of fine forest. In accord- ance with these views, succulent plants are common ; the leaves are those suited to a dry atmosphere, and spinous organs are much developed. It has been deemed singular that fungi should be entirely wanting in a soil for a certain period saturated with moisture, and apparently suited to their ephemeral existence. In some barren spots, beyond the reach of the inundation, certain plants have established themselves, and drag on a starved and stunted existence. The valley of Lower Egypt is not likely to present a very perfect specimen of an indigenous flora, having been under the closest cultivation for many ages ; and it is probable that its alluvial soil has been the gradual deposit of the Nile, and that it has received its vegetation from Abyssinia and elsewhere. We shall, therefore, direct our attention chiefly to the former. Some insight into the flora of Abyssinia has been ob- tained, particularly by Salt and Caillaud, who made collec- tions. Many of its species are found to be peculiar, and to bear a larger proportion to the entire vegetation. Leguminosae are very abundant throu^ acacia, cassia, mimosa, pterolobium, erythrina, alhagi, desmanthus, and bauhinia. Other conspicuous genera are euphorbia, avi- cennia, juniperus, tamarix, zygophyllum, fagonia, poiym- nia, oerua, brucea, balsamodendron, cordia, and pistacia. Coflea arabica is indigenous, and fresnella fontanesii forms thick groves on some of the hills. Gramineae are nume- rous, and several kinds of holcus, sorghum, poa, and andropogon, are cultivated. In those frequent situations, where neutral salts are mixed with the soil, are salsola, salicornia, traganum, and calligonum. 'I'he bed of the Nile is often closely set with sedges and flags. Papyrus actiquorum is equally found here and in the lakes of Abys- sinia. Nelumbium speciosum has disappeared ; yet still S ■• I 414 TIIK RKfJlDNS OF VIXiKTATION. \-. 11 »' the rivors of India and China are cnhvened hy its fino red flowers. The white-flowered nymi)ha>a lotus abounds; and n. ciJerulea is sometimes seen. Arum colocasia is cuhivated for food. The vast sea of land of the Great Sahara is an effectual barrier to the extension of the flora of this region, in the direction over which it prevails. It consists oi" a low flat plain, with the surface covered with white .and grey quartz, and becoming more shingly towards the ea'it, or in the direction of the prevailing wind. It is towards its eastern part that the oases chiefly exist, aifording a grateful rest- ing-place to the traveller, occupied by a rather numerous population, land having a lively vegetation. The dreari- ness of the surrounding waste is here replaced hy groves of date-palm. Acacia vera and other species shade the gushing streams, and tufts of grasses vary the surface. Relations. — Many of the plants frequent on the shores of the Mediterranean appear in Lower Egypt ; and some '■i ^hose of Arabia cross the Red Sea to Nubia and Abys- sinia. The most interesting relation, however, is with the South Africa Region through several species of mesembry- anthemum, pelargonium abyssinicum, protea abyssinica, hagenia abyssin ca, brunia ciliata, albuca abyssinica, and geissorhiza abycnnica. Adansonia digitata of the west coast re-appears, and the trunk is applied to entombing the dead. A tropical character is displayed in some of the genera enumerated, and in musa ensete. Rosa abyssinica occurs in the valleys of that country. XXXII. THE ASIA MINOR REGION. Extent. — Let us suppose ourselves stationed at the head of the Persian Gulf, and then project lines to the 10 TlIK ASFA MINOU RIUHON. 415 of the at the to the west and north in the direction of the latitude and longi- tude. These, with the Caspian Sea, the range of Caucasus, the Black Sea, and the Mediterranean, will enclose an in- teresting portion of country, watered hy the Euphrates and other considerable rivers, and comprising Syria, Palestine, the rich provinces of Turkey in Asia, Bagdad, and a portion of Persia. Physical CiiAiiAcrEiis. — The aspect and general features are variable. In some places it would be difficult to exceed the dreary barrenness and unproductive nature of the sur- face, resisting with complete success any invjision from vegetation. I'hero are, however, others, and they are numerous, where the verdure and fertility are of the most agreeable kind. In Asia Minor, between the ranges of hills, are often beautiful and extensive plains in full cultivation, and dotted by the villagc& of the inhabitants ; the groups of cypress and the singular burying-grounds pointing out those of the Turks, whilst cukivation and its attendants indi- cate those of the more thrifty Albanians. These plains are always well watered by streams originating in the surround- ing mountains, and their benefits are greatly extended by irrigation, which from the aridity of the soil seems indis- pensable. Climate. — This is generally regarded as warm, but some parts, as Bagdad, are distinguished for their great heat, and the northern winds produce a rapid and impor- tant depression of temperature. The summer months are generally warm and very dry, and the atmosphere is serene and transparent. Rain is even scarce in some places. Flora. — The vegetation of Asia Minor is eminently adapted to delight the traveller. He is not buried in a vast dark forest, where the view is most circumscribed, and without objects to engage attention. Forest trees are grouped together in the valleys and mountain sides, whilst I ! ■1 I' 11 410 TIIK REGIONS OF VKdKTATION. I' r occasional open spaces arc in the undisturbed possession of piles of rocks, or more profitably occupied in agriculture. Sometimes a waving line of brighter green points out the course of a river or mountain stream. The foliage is gene- rally distinguished for its evergreen character, the dark sombre shade of its colour, and the leathery consistence of the leaves. The trees most prominent are quercus infec- toria, platanus orientalis, pistacia terebinthus, p. lentiscus, and other species of these genera, pinus halepensis, abies orientalis, cupressus sempervirens, junipcrus sabina, cera- toniaslliqua, juglans regia, liquidambar imberbe, and others of acer, celtis, fraxinus, and celsia. Among the smaller vegetation, labiatse are numerous, and have their chief station here. The nearly allied family scrophularineo; is also freely represented, and cucurbitaceao and asphodelcas are conspicuous for their numbers. In some parts are ex- tensive tracts producing a great multitude of individuals of tamarix, acacia, glycirrhiza, and hedysarum alhagi. And in others of even a less favourable character are met with chenopodium, ruta, rumex, artemisia, centaurea, amaran- tus, cucumis, lyceum, solanum, mcsembryanthemum, and asclepias syriaca ; which last, though a pretty plant, has an extensive range, and is every where a weed. The vege- tation of Mount Caucasus is particularly rich and fasci- nating, but it has a very European character. Relations. — I reg ird this region as separable from the Danube Region, with which it has much in common, in the different aspects of the vegetation, and in the partial ces- sation, sometimes nearly complete, of several genera as populus, spiraea, Crataegus, campanula, rhamnus, viola, &c., and of the group of umbellifera;. With the China Region it has many interesting relations, and prunus armenaica, which is represented as covering the sides of Caucasus, is again seen in China ; and with North America there are TIIK AllAniA RKOION. 417 spvoral tlirough {cbcuIus, juglnns, and liquidanibar. Ulnuis cnmpestris is supposed to have been introduced to Pales- tine by tbe Crusaders. •om the , in the ial ces- era as la, &c., Region lenaica, isus, is kere are XXXIII.— THK ARABIA REGION. KxTENT. — The Arabian peninsula, and separated from the adjoining region by a line extending due west from tbe head of tbe Persian Gulf to tbe Mediterranean sea. Physical Characteiis. — Arabia is little else than an extensive desert clothed with straggling: thorny shrubs, and having some spots of redeeming fertility. Rocky cheerless mountains traverse it, occasionally sheltering within them small fertile valleys, called Wadis. About ^'emen, tbe country is superior, and vegetation has some luxuriance, and is remarkable for its fragrant qualities. Ci.niATE. — An excessive clearness and transparency pre- vail in the atmosphere from tbe scarcity of moisture. The skies are almost always cloudless ; from June to September showers occasionally fall, but chiefly about Yemen or Arabia Felix. Hot winds, coming from Africa, sometimes sweep its western shores. Flora. — Arabia, famed for its spires, derives its repu- tation more probably from being a country of transit, than as their source. Still it has contributed its siiare, ami even the general character of tbe shrubs is aioiiuitic. Moving eastward, we meet m this region several new forms, re- minding us strongly of Asiatic vegetation. Where forest exists, numerous species of ficus enter largely mto it, mingled with stercuUa platinifolia, tomex glabra, growia, populifera, balsamodendron gileadense, b. opnljalsamum, b. kataf, b. kafal, maerua uniflora, m. racemosa, cynaii- VOL. II. E K 4 ^ 9^, \^ \a1 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // 1.0 I.I 1.25 ^■28 |2.5 "ia|22 1.8 lif m u 111111.6 <$> ^ V 7; ^a V Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 ^^ X ^ J ^ rx c^ 418 THE REC4I0NS OF VEGETATION. chum arboreum, celastrus edulis, c. parviflora, keura odori- fera, and pandanus odoratissimus. Little woods of arbo- rescent euphorbia occur. Cryptogamic plants, gramineae, and cyperacese, are all scarce. Some of the bulbous plants of South Africa make their appearance, cucurbitacero are not uncommon, and succulent plants are also frequent. Coffea arabica is regarded as not indigenous, and the testi- mony of the Arabians themselves refers its origin to Abys- sinia. Acacia arabica is native, and some active medicines are produced, as senna, aloes, myrrh, and olibanum. Socotra is a mountainous island, consisting of granite, of indifferent fertility, nearly bare of trees, and distinguished for its aloes, dates, and dragon's blood. Relations. — Its tropical forms are chiefly from India, but the most interesting affinities are with the South Africa Region through aloe, stapelia, mesembryaiithemum, and hsemanthus. Several species are shared in common with the Nile Region. XXXIV— THE TARTARY REGION. Extent. — A broad irregular space, of peculiar aspect and fluctuating fertility, occupies the centre cf Asia be- tween the Altai and Himma-leh chains of mountains, in- cluding the states of Tartary, Thibet, and portions of Persia and Cabul. Physical Characters. — Situated as it is between stu- pendous mountain chains, the greater part of the surface presents a considerable, but varying elevation, and is further diversified by being traversed by others of inferior grandeur. Aridity chiefly prevails, much of the soil being very sandy ; large portions are sometimes so salt as not to yield the slightest vegetation, and the wind is said to THE SlUKRIA KK(;l<)N. 410 drive ii on the bushes and cover them as with a hoar frost. Partial fertihty is imparted by the streams, and more par- ticularly by the rivulets occasioned by the rains. Climate. — Extremes characterize the seasons; the summers are burning and arid, and the winters severe and nipping. Flora. — Wherever there is shelter and some moisture, trees from the Asia Minor Region are met with, as pistacia lentiscus, p. terebinthus, pinus pinea, morus nigra, olea europea, and some oaks. Species of artemisia spread in crowds, impregnating the atmosphere with their peculiar aroma, and giving a bluish green tint to the steppes. Other characteristic species are spartium junceum, s. spi- nosum, statice tartarica, ealligonum polygon oides, and others of selinum, centaurea, tamarix, salvia, verberis, ruta, lyceura, solanum, capparis, asclepias, astragalus, hedysarum, spiraea, rumex, and hthospermum. The fruits are those of warm temperate latitudes, and millet, barley, sorghum, amarantus, and paspalum are cultivated. Relations. — The flora is poor, and so indiiferently known, that this portion of its history remains in obscurity. The proportion of spinous plants is unusually great. XXXV.— THE SIBERIA REGION. Extent. — A continuous barrier, enclosing the vast steppes of Siberia, is formed by the Ural and Altai moun- tains, which forms its western and southern borders, and terminates at the sea of Okotsk in 55" north latitude. The stpppes of Ischin, a portion of Tartary, is thus in- closed, and the region is limited to the north by the extent of the growth of trees somewhere about 65" north latitude. E E 2 ,11 420 TTIE REOIONS, OF VEOKTATION. 8; fj n The whole of the Altai range is comprehended, and con- stitutes an important portion. Physical Chakacteus. — The surface within the moun- tain ranj^es presents an extensive level plain, traversed by numerous large rivers with a general course to the Arctic Ocean, and therefore with an inclination towards the north The aspect and nature of the surface varies ; to- wards tiie north it is dreary and usually frozen ; more to the south there are extensive districts of rich dark soil, and in the vicinity of the rivers are fine alluvial tracts. Small lakes and marshy patches abound, with their peculiar vegetation, and saline substances are occasionally largely mixed with the soil. The highest parts of the Altai range do not attain any considerable height. Climate. — Siberia is not so bleak and inhospitable as has been generally represented, though, compared with similar parallels in Europe, or even in Amerca, it must still be called inclement. Over much the soil is frozen even to June, but where the inhabitants can be drawn from the chase of the fur animals to the less exciting pur- suits of agriculture, large and profitable crops of the northern cerealia are produced. The variety and beauty, with the occasional richness of the vegetation, is an un- questionable proof that the climate is not always severe. Flora. — The clothing of vegetation which invests the surface, varies in different situations. In some are thick forests, in others extensive marshes ; large tracts are some- times covered with saline plants, or lastly, a luxuriant and pleasing vegetation prevails. The torest chiefly follows the dircciion of the rivers, and the pine prevails. Among the herbaceous vegetation, perennials are by far the most abundant, and though numerous species are iden- tical with European, a great many are peculiar, and some still new to science. Nowhere, perhaps, do herbaceous Tllli SIUEUIA Ui:(il()N. 421 plants so truly luxuriate as in these latitudes, where they are in unrestricted possession of tiie rich soil. Their short existence through the summer nionth-^ is compensated by a vigorous growth and obtrusive beauty. The pre- dominating families are ranunculaceae, cruciferpc, umbelli- ferae, leguminosfE, saxifrageae, and caryophylleaj. As the seasons advance, labiatae, scrophularincae, and boragineae, contribute important members ; whilst liliaceae and irideac are conspicuous among the spring vegetation. The indi- viduality of the flora depends almost entirely on species, for the genera are extremely similar to those of Europe, and though the features of the vegetation are different, a catalogue would appear to show a close resembance. A few may be mentioned as to some extent distinctive, and which have usually several species ; astragalus, hedysarum, caragana, pedicularis, poeonia, zygophyllum, phlomis, ephedra, and robinia. Ceratocarpus arenaria and diotis ceratoides are represented as covering large tracts ; whilst the saline plants belong chiefly to polycnemum, atriplex, chenopodium, frankenia, tamarix, nitraria, and salicornia. Pallas and Ledebour are almost our only authorities for Siberian vegetation. The latter has examined somewhat closely the flora of the Altai Mountains between 47" and 54" north latitude, and 73" and 87" east longitude. The intluence of aspect was found to be important in favour of the south ; from various observations, the limit of per- petual snow seems as high as 7,350 feet ; in some places corn grew at 4,400 feet, and here also was the limit of habi- tations. At 4,S00 feet the vegetation most resembles that of Europe. The highest limit of trees is 7,'200 feet ; pinus cem- bra, with a south aspect, attains 7,200 feet, and with a north aspect, 5,300 feet. Betula alba reaches 5,850 feet, and pinus siberica and abies communis grow together to the height of 5,800 feet, where they both cease. Ledebour mentions two 4 ' 1 ^ i 1 ii 1 1 1 it h 1 1 i ■li' 1 it : 1^ ill 1^ \ w 4'22 Tin-: laXilUXS of VKCiKTATION. 't II peculiarities in the vegetation; the nearly total absence of hurd-wooded trees, such as those furnished by quercus, fagus, acer, tilia, carpinus, and fraxinus; and that many of the fami- lies which have numerous species are represented by few genera; thus, saussurea, serratula, and artemisia in compo- sitoe, zygophyllum in rutace.'R, and astragalus, oxytropis, and phaca in leguminosac monopolize the far greater part of the species in their respective families. Relations. —When we reflect how much the continuity of the land has difTused the animal and vegetable produc- tions of the northern part of Europe, Asia, and America, the Siberia Region must be allowed to have retained its entiieness with great success. At the southern limits of the Altai range such a change occurs in the climate and physical characters as to be incompatible with a vegetation like that of Siberia. Toivards Bering's Strait", though the interval is small, the difference between the two coasts is as marked as can be expected between neighbouring re- gions. Kaintschatka has received no important accessions from America, though the flora of the latter is represented in rhododendron, robinia, erigeron, daytonia, and trillium. This distinction is less evident on its west side, where the plants of Europe and Siberia intermingle. Through rheum and poeonia it claims an alliance with the more southern floral regions of Asia. XXXVI.— THE JAPAN REGION. Extent. — Balbi, in his Geographic, has indicated a Sinico-Japanese Region, but the lofty volcanic mountains, insular position, and rough climate of Japan, would seem to point to a peculiar vegetation, and one with predominat- ing alpine features. The foundation of this region con- i ' snce of , fag us, e fami- by ffiw conipo- ytropis, er part ntinuity produc- iLinerica, lined it3 limits of late and egetation ough the coasts is uring re- ccessions resented trillium. here the h rheum southern Idicated a lountains, )uld seem [edominat- ?gion con- TIIIC .lAI'AN UKCION'. \-2?, sists of Niphon and Jewso, with the other islands known collectively as Japan. It also includes the lonjj island of Saghalien, and a portion of the main of peculiar aspect and nearly covered with forest, situated between 55" north latitude and the river Hoang-ho in China. The penin- sula of Correa is thus embracoJl, and the northern part of Chi. (1 the al I'eki 'o» but a tract in which IS situatet of country of great aridity and barrenness. PnvsicAL Characters. — The aspect of the Japanese Islands is bold and rugged, and the mountains are ele- vated far above the line of perpetual snow. The con- nental portion, except to the south, is traversed by moun- tain chains. Climate. — Severe for the latitude and prone to ex- tremes. At Nangasaki, in 32" 45 north latitude, observa- tions give the mean temperature as GS", and the range in the year from upwards of a hundred degrees to below the freezing point. Flora — It is but indifferently known ; the mass of the vegetation is temperate, but singularly mixed with tropical forms. Raphis flabelliformis and cycas revoluta mingle with species of acer, quercus, thuja, pinus, and juniper us. Thunberg collected near Naugasaki 755 phaenogamous plants, which certainly bespeaks a flora rich in forms. Its bizarre character will be visible in pinus, abies, larix, tilia, salix, citrus, bumbusa, ficus, olea, mespilus, cydonia, prunus, salisburia, podocarpus, clerodendron, nerium, laurus, diospyros, pauUinia, vitex, melia, broussonetia, camellia, illicium, and hydrangea. Like the China Region, the vegetation in connexion with the climate well deserves attentive study. Relations. — In many respects they are close with China, and also abundant with Siberia through pinus cembra, the birch, the larch, and the willow, &c. The r> 424 TIIK UJiUlUNS OF VIXJICTATION. affinities with the North American Regions are r i stronger than happen in the China Region, through sam- bucui", ausculus, pavia, magnoHa, vitis, bignonia, juglans, and rhododendron. XXXVII.— THE CHINA REGION. ExTKNT — A large portion of the cast of Asia, comprising the vast empire of China, Correa, Japan, and tlic islands border- ing the coast, presents a remarkable vegetation, influenced by some peculiarities of climate, and having many interesting relations with other and sometimes distant regions, from all which its isolation is complete. I regard it as conveniently divided into t*vo regions ; the China Region, and the Japan Region ; the former entertaining copious relations with India, and the latter with Siberia. The China Region, the object of our present attention, does not embrace tiie whole of that empire, but that portion of it situated between the Hoang-ho, or great river, and the Gulf of Tonquin. Its western boundary is within a line stretching from the Gulf of Tonquin to the Himma-leh Mountains, and, continu- ing along the chain which separates Thibet from China, ceases at the Tartary Region. To the east it is bounded by the Pacific Ocean, but includes the islands of Formosa, Loo-Choo, and Hainan. Physicai, Characters. — No country in the world pre- sents such a forbidding aspect as China. The land on the southern shores is generally bold, and seems to be so swept by the periodical winds that vegetation will not thrive. A little fern and coarse grass alone resist them, with occasion- ally a few stunted bushes. In other places the shores are low, and flooded by the sea. Where, however, there are TIIK CHINA UKCIOiN. 4-2r> d pre- on the o swept ive. A casi oil- lores are ere are sheltered valleys vegetation prospers, and is more distin- guished for its variety than luxuriance. The interior of the country, on the lovest estimate, supports a population of '2'W to the square mile, the chief part of which has for ages heen engaged in the great na- tional pursuit of agriculture, and cannot have failed, in this long period, to have materially altered the face of the country, and to have driven the native flora to the moun- tains, and other places not favourable to cultivation. To this may also be attributed tiie scarcity of forest, but it must at the same time be remembered that this latitude elsewhere is not remarkable for this kind of vegetation. Particulars of the interior of China have been collected by the Engiisli and Dutch embass'es, and in the writings of the Jesuit missionaries. The country is traversed by several moiiii- taiu chains of no great elevation, pursuing various direc- tions, and impressing a picturesque and even romantic as- pect on much of the scenery. 'I'his is aided too by the scattered growth of trees, which are spread in open irregu- lar clumps, and by the methodical and extreme cultivation of the plains. The prevailing mineral structures are granite, often traversed by veins of quartz or supporting blocks of it, coarse limestone, clay- slate, and sandstones. Bazaltic trap occurs in the island of Hong-kong. It was very generally observed that the rocks were in a state of rapid disintegration. The soil has an universal character throughout China, consisting of a loam of a red or ferrugi- nous colour, sometimes clayey, and capable of being formed into bricks, which become blue after burning. The soil itself is sufficiently productive, and is diligently assisted by a persevering upturning and division of the lumps, the plentiful application of manure, and the most laboured irri- gation. The mountains are rocky and barren, scattered with trees of qucrcus glauca or other species, laurus !!l| W 420 TIIK RKdIONS OF VE(JKTAT1(>N. W' i 11. ■. A> cumplioni, or stillin<:ias('l)itora. 'I'lie ningo separating the province of Canton is extensively wooded with pinus rnas- soiiiana and p. lanceohita. Many hushes of mehistoma, niyrtus, rhus, camellia, cugenia, and chloranthus, abound in similar situations. Climate. — Meteorolo^'ical observations liavc been con- ducted at Canton through a series of years, which give some satisfactory mean results. June, July, and August, are the summer months, as with us, and the heat is intense. In December, January, and February, the weather is equally bleak and cold. The mean temperature is 70" 4', and the range from '21)" to 94o, or sixty-five degrees. It is in all respects a climate of extremes, fur both the annual and diurnal range is great, and its peculiarities will be placed in the strongest light by a comparison with that of Calcutta, San Bias in Mexico, or other places in a nearly similar latitude. Tlie influence of the sun's rays in the cold season is great- est, according to my observations, at one v. m., when their radiating power is 48" above the shade. The hygrometric state of the atmosphere does not appear so much influenced by the seasons as usual. Rain falls in all the months, but by far the greatest quantity in the summer. The rncan of sixteen years observations is 706 inches. The amount varies greatly in different years, and also in different months. Thus ninety inches have been known, and in 1840 there only fell sixty-one inches. The range of the hygrometer is probably below the average, for in the dry season I never obtained a greater depression than 6", and even then the dews were very heavy. Flora. — The vegetation comprises great variety in species, and attractive kinds are more than usually abun- dant. It has been observed that, in relation to the space, forest is not frequent, but this is met by a great variety of low shrubby plants, the preponderance of which is character- TIIK CHINA Rt:(il()N. 4-j; istio. Gpiierully their foliajio is t-vorgroen, aiul with tbe (riistoinary rich (leep spatliuhita, clematis hedyHaritblia, drosora InuHMrii, sida rhombifolia, indi^'ofera liirsnta, crotalaria rotusa, c. vachoUii, abrus prrcatorius, mc^onihryantluMmim cordifoliuin, torilis japonica, paratropia cantonicnHifi, with species of hypericiim, poly^'onnin, chenopodiiim, salvia, clirysantliemum, aster, gnaphalium, and granyea. Cyanus neliimbo and trapa bicorniti arc ))lentiful on the canals and (piict waters Viscum ovalifolinm is found in the nei^di- bourhood of Canton: and anotlier parasite, cassythis fiU- formis, festoons the shrubs with its oickly branchlets. The ^geographical range of the I'ltter is extensive, stret(;hing as it does from the Cape of Good Hope in IH", K. long., to China, the Indian islands, and across the Pacific Ocean to 140", VV. long., or nearly two-thirds round the globe. In a statistical view, the number of species in the flora appears to be small in proportion to the leading groups re- presenteil, as they stand in about the following numerical relations: families .5, genera 13, species IG, giving some- thing more than three species to each family. Some of the cultivated or more remarkable plants are worthy of notice, and the tea shrub is naturally the most prominent. The numerous varieties known in commerce are equally produceable from the two species, thea bohea and t. viridis, the difference depending on soil, culture, the age of the leaf, and the manufacture. It is a handsome shrub, with fragrant while (yellow, Davis) flowers, preferring the sides of the bills and a poor soil. Green tea is chiefly produced in Kiang-nan, between 29" and 31" N. lat. ; black tea in Fohkien, between 27" and 28" N. lat. The favourite soil is a decomposed granite mixed with feitspar, and which rilK CHINA UKOION. \'2[) Is Uflf'd in the inamifjirfiiro of therlopant porcelain in wl'.icli tlio infiisioM is drank. Oiu» portion of tlio world, as the llnfjlish and others, pronoinice it tou; tho other portion, as th(! I'ortnLMiL'HC and Spaniards, cha. Hoth words are C'.iinose, hut the former is tlie dialc(!t of Arnoy, and tho hitter of Canton. The ranf,'e of the indigenous shrid) is perhaps as far us 45" N. lat. 'I'he sngar-cane is cuhivated to •']()" N. lat.; hut its prochietiveness is prohahly not great. The hanana is abundant about Canton, but the fruit re- (piires to be protected by a covering of the (h'y leaves — a practice I never observed elsewhere. It is far from attaining ])erfection, the saccharine (jualities seeming to form after tiie fruit has been gathered, and when it is becoming almost rotten. Rice is most ext^'usively cultivated throughout the empire, and is really the staff' of life. The seeds of stil- lingia sebifera are surrounded by a substance resembling, and having the same use as, tallow. Ligustrum lucidum yields from its berries a wax. A branch of olea fragrans is the reward of literary atta'^.i.ients, Camellia oleifera and other species contain oil in their seeds, which is easily ex- pressed, and irf sold at Canteen under the name of tea oil, for all common purposes. Tl^^schynomene paludosa was for some time supposed to produce the rice paper of (Jhina ; the proper plant, however, is still a desideratum. Tiiis plant is also a native of China, as well as India, where it is called shola, and has its uses. The fruits more particu- larly Chinese are the loquat, litchi, longan, flat peach, man- darin orange, red lime, and fingered shaddock. Relations. — The entirencss of its flora may be sought in the peculiarity of the vegetation when compared with the latitude, and in the sources of resemblance it has with distant regions, as with the Iroquois Region throtigh mag- nolia, juglans, prinos, and ilex ; with the California Region in general aspect and habit, and in the prevalence of rham- 1 1 i jiif 4:30 THE RE(iIONS OF VEGETATION. I'll J, A ' . » ' , neae; and with several distant regions through piiiiis, quercuo, acer, rhus, rhododendron, azalea, myrtus, lonicera, rubus, &e. Few of these plants connecting it elsewhere are shared with neighbouring regions, if we make some ex- ception in favour of Japan : but of its more tropical species many occur equally in the various parts of India and the Malay islands. Through paliurus, diospyros, olea, and tamarix, we are reminded of Asia Minor. Species of euphorbia partially replace the cacteae of the New World. XXXVIIL— THE BIRMAH REGION. Extent. — At present we separate this region rather be- cause it has not the features of the neighbouring regions, than from any known peculiar characters of its own, since so little is known concerning it. It embraces a large por- tion of country extending south from the Himma-leh mountains, between ti.s Ganges on one side, and the Gulf of Tonquin on the other, with the exception of the Malacca peninsula, which belongs to the Malaisia Region ; including thus the kingdoms of Birmah, Siam, and Cochin China. Physical Characters. — The interior is little known. The country would appear productive, and is watered by several large rivers. Climate. — Tropical, but apparently without those ex- tremes of temperature so frequent in the China Region. Flora. — Botanists have hitherto made very slight in- roads. Loureiro has given us a fragment of the vegetation of Cochin China. Aurantiaceaj seem to be nearly as fre- quent as in the China Region, and there are several of the most tropical plants in common, but a nearly complete ab- sence of those of more temperate latitudes, which so abound ^h pimis, , lonicera, elsewhere ! some ex- .•al species I and the olea, and species of f World. iN. rather be- ig regions, own, since large por- limma-leh the Gulf le Malacca including China. ie known, atered by those ex- Legion. slight in- Ivegetatiou Irly as fre- ;ral of the [nplete ab- so abound THE MALAISIA Rl-XilON. 4:31 there. In Assam the tea plant has been found in abundance, and the leaves have been since manufactured and exported to England. Some of the species of Blume's Flora Javae occur here, and perhaps also of other of the Malay islands. Relations. — Unknown. XXXIX.— THE MALAISIA REGION. Extent.— The numerous islands of the Indian Ocean, of which Sumatra, Java, Borneo, Celebes, the Phillipines, Flores, and Timor, are the most extensive. The Moluccas are not included, as they belong to the New Guinea Region ; the peninsula of Malacca, however, forms an im- portant part of this region. Physical Characters Bold scenery and lofty moun- tains are especially characteristic of these islands, and ex- tensive traces of volcanic action are in many places appa- rent. They are generally distinguished for their rich soil and fertility, the latter due to a moist atmosphere, frequent heavy rains, and the constant influence of a hot sun. Though some of the mountains arc extremely lofty, they rarely attain the elevation of perpetual snows. Climate. — The equator traverses the region, and pro- duces a difference in the distribution of the seasons in the islands somewhat removed from it. Those to the north have their wet seasojis from May to September or October, being nearly the same as our summer. To the south, the rains commence in October and cease about April. At the equator, the distinction of these seasons is less decided, the different parts of the year being very similar. The range of temperature is very small in the year or during the day. The thermometer generally stands at $6'> to 90°. :i 11 ' I 432 TTIE UECJTONS OF VEGETATION. !l . i'( ■ m m vV m 1 m M 'f^K' iiff 'MB^H m^ m The rains are very heavy, and the air is usually laden with moisture. Flora. — With few exceptions, the whole of the islands are covered with forest, which is particularly exposed to that rapid growth and decay consequent on a humid and warm atmosphere. It is rich in species, and distinguished as the source of some of those remarkable for their aromatic or luscious qualities, and which might be easily diffused throughout the region. In many respects they are the same as those of the Indian regions, with such differences as depend on climate. Leguminosse, malvaceae, and some others, are therefore not proportionately numerous. Java is a rich and fruitful island. Its forests are filled with cinchonacea?, which abound here in astonishing num- bers, and which would seem, to be the spot of greatest inten- sity of the family. Hydrocereae, having only a solitary 8j)ecies, is confined to the island. The curious rafflesia and the famous antiaris toxicaria are indigenous. On the ele- vated lands of the interior quercus and other genera of a temperate climate are encountered. Sumatra and Malacca, like Java, are covered with forests, supporting or sheltering a luxuriant vegetation, among which orchidaceao, ferns, and climbers, are very numerous ; and the dead wood is often invested with lichens of gloomy colours. Celebes has an estimated superficies of 70,000 square miles. The forest vegetation is thinner than elsewhere, and the surface often very rocky. The neighbouring island of Borneo, however, has the usual vast compact forest, in which the dryobalanops camphora is conspicuous, and where at present it is confined. Timor is distinguished for its sandalwood forests, but sanialum is probably diffused over all the islands. The Phillipines, though nominally belonging for so long THE ITINDOSTAX REfJION. 433 n with slands ipx\ to id and ruished 'omatic liffused ire the ierences d some re filled ig num- it inten- solitary Bsia and the ele- ;ra of a ;d with ;etation, ire very lichens square lewhere, Ig island )rest, in where Ists, but so long a time to the Spaniards, are really in possession of the natives, and sealed against Europeans ; they are, therefore, little known. Some of the tropical plants of the China Region are found here, and the seasons are directly the re- verse of those in the southern islands. From these and some other reasons, they may, perhaps, deserve to be con- sidered as a distinct region. Relations. — In the circumstances of the climate, and in some of the more prominent productions, there is a clear resemblance with some parts of the Oronoco Region. In the superior prevalence of cinchonaceae in both, this is par- ticularly manifest. With the Indian Regions there is much in common, acd tectona grandis and other trees abound in the forest of Java, though dipterocarpeaj belongs chiefly to the islands. XL.— THE IlINDOSTAN KECilON. Extent.— Vast research has been already devoted to the immense flora of intertropical Asia, but the results rather make us acquainted with detached portions, than convey a general view of the whole. Thus there are extensive dis- tricts hitherto unexamined, and of which we consequently know nothing. A difficulty, therefore, exists, amounting in some cases to an impossibility, of defining its regional vegetation. However, therp are important points of dif- ference between the portion known as Hindostan and that comprehending Birmah and Cochin-China, and for the pre- sent we will regard the Ganges as an arbitrary line of dis- tinction. To the north are the Himma-leh Mountains, and to the west the region probably crosses the Indus to the Solyman range. Phvsical Characters. — Great diversity of character is VOL. II. F r il iii 11 t 434 TME RKdlONS OK VEGKTATION'. ! i visible over this extensive surface. In the neighbourhood of the rivers, particularly that of the Ganges, the surface is an extensive alluvial plain, where a hillock would be a a novelty. In other parts, a number of secondary moun- tain chains traverse the country, and give rise to many rivers and streams which carry fertility through their course. These elevations are often extremely bold and rocky, and are sufficiently great to affect the vegetation and climate. On the whole the soil is fruitful, and in some places eminently productive ; in others there are occasional sandy or rocky districts. Climate. — The seasons are tropical, with perhaps a greater range of temperature than is customary for the lati- tude. At Calcutta the mean heat is 79o 4, and the tempe- rature sometimes falls to 63"; at Madras the mean is 84° 4, and at Bombay 81" 9, The quantity of rain has been esti- mated at Calcutta to be 81 inches annually, and at Bombay 82 inches. In the Nhilgerries, where the elevation in- fluences the climate, the mean of the year at Serloo, elevated 3,500 feet, is 70"; at Jackanary, 5,000 feet, 60"; and at Ootacamund, 8,500 feet, 56" 6. At the latter, the average fall of rain is about 64 inches. Flora. — The magnificent vegetation of this region pre- sents all that is rich and beautiful, and such as can be expected within the tropics. The extensive forests con- tain a great variety of trees, often of surpassing magnitude ; and frequently the number of individuals is very great, as in the saul forests which skirt the base of the Himma-leh Mountains, and sometimes in the assemblage of palms in situations suited to their growth. We have only room to state, that the mass of the vegetation is derived from the following natural families : araliaceae, nelumboneae, cap- parideae, flacourtianeae, anonacea^ myristiceae, dilleniaceae, laurineae, menispermejc, sterculiaceae and dombeyacefr, 6 i^i I'HE IIINDOSTAN RKCMOX. 43r> sections of sterculiaceac, moringeae; elaeocarpea?, snlicarise, myrtaceae, combretaceae, santaiacero, olacineae, leguminosae, urticeac, artocarpeaj, euphorbiacea^ celastrinea?, rhamneaB, sapindacese, vites, rneliaceae, cedreleae, aurantiaceae, conna- raceae, amyrideie, burseracea?, anacardiaceae, ochnacese, balsaminese, bignoniaceaj, piperaceao, cucurbitaceaj, cin- chonacejr, loranthacea% loganiaceae, asclepiadese, myrsineJE, cyrtandraceae, begoniaceae, cycadeaB, commelinea}, scitami- iieso, smilaceae, pandaneac;, and aroideae. — {Grevllle.) Many of these families, however, are more copiously re- presented elsewhere, and some are but rarely seen. The families strictly confined to India are few, as memecyleae, alangieae, aquilarineae, stilagineae, and some of these even may be disputed. Ceylon is estimated to contain 24,660 square miles, and its highest point attains 8,280 feet. The climate varies much in temperature and fall of rain in diiferent parts. At Colombo the annual range is from 76" to 87", and the fall of rain from 75 to 80 inches. The vegetation is similar to the continental, and the elevation of surface is friendly to the existence of a somewhat altered vegetation, mixed with a few genera of temperate latitudes. Relations. — There is so much similarity in the con- trolling influences within the tropics of the different conti- nents, that we are not surprised to find them approaching each other in the general characters of tlieir vegetation. This is not only visible in the more bulky tropical families, as combretaceae, melastomaceae, piperaceee, cinchonaceae, and celastrineae ; but in the inconsiderable groups of peda- lineae, olacineae, ochnaceae, samydeae, hippocrateaceae, and homalineae. In some instances, where the relations are less intimate, a compensation seems attempted, as in the pre- sence of cyrtandracesB for the gesnereae of intertropical America. Whilst America presents some affinities with V F 2 ;l «iF'* KVM ^ 11 Wk 1 H Hi' ffi m 1 m m- Wm 'JSk m ^m ffij m I ft J 400 Tin: KKCilONS OF VK(;ETATrON. New Holland, they are rarer in Asia, a circumstance per- haps due to geographical position. Several genera are shared with the China Region, the most remarkable being nepenthes. Cyrtandra is numerously represented in the Sandwich Islands. XLI.— THE HIMMA LEH REGION. Extent. — This is probably the most interesting alpine region in the world, as some allowances are necessary for the charm with which Humboldt has invested the Andes. The novelty of his researches ensured an early and lasting impression on the minds of scientific men, and the wide re- putation which ensued has so overshadowed the subject elsewhere, that all other mountain chains have been re- duced to almost a secondary importance. The names of a few Englishmen have recently become associated with the examination of the natural features and productions of the Himma-leh Mountains, and the obscurity in which they were long buried has been considerably removed. This gigantic mass of mountains traverses a great portion of Asia from east to west in a somewhat devious line between 2.5o 20' and 31" N. lat, and 75° and OS" E. long. In accord- ance with our views of the extent of an alpine flora, this region commences at the spot where the lowland cultivation ceases, and which, in different aspects and situations, varies, to an important extent, between 3,200 and 4,400 feet. Above this are the four permanent belts of an alpine flora. Von Buch is disposed to think there is room for another region towards the limit of vegetation, but I do not deem it advisable to distinguish further in the alpine regions. Physical Characters. — The Himma-leh Mountains Till': IIIMMA-LKII l{i:(il(>N. 4.>" e per- ra are being in the alpine sary for Andes, lasting ,vide re- subject leen re- les of a ath the s of the ch they . This rtion of jetween accord- ora, this tivation varies, 00 feet, ne flora, another ot deem )ns. oun tains are not a solitary clmin, but are composed of many heaped against each other, of varied outline and elevation, and containing .within them numerous defiles, valleys, plains, and every other disposition of surface liable to occur, a ret materially influencing tiie climate and vegetable produc- tions. In many of liiese situations is collected a rich soil and all the appliances of great fertihty. Their geological structure presents numerous rocks ; approaching the chain from the south, sandstone first appears, distinctly stratified and containing strata of lignite ; to these succeed various kinds of slaty rocks, imbedding quartz, limestone, and horn- blende ; lastly, gneiss appears in vast quantities, traversed by veins of granite, and imbcdiling garnets, schorl, hyacinth, and native gold. Animal remains occur in considerable (piantities in some places, consisting of marine shells, fish> and the bones of animals. The breadth of the region varies between '250 and ,'350 miles, but the extent of surface geographically furnishes no correct estimate of the real superficies. The snow -line fluctuates according to the cir- cumstances of the locality, but may be generally stated at from 14,000 to 1 0,000 feet, and is always higher on the northern flanks. Among the loftiest peaks are Javaher, at- taining-25,800 feet ; Dhawalagiri, '2^,500 feet; and Chu. mularee, '29,000 feet ; but vegetation has ceased long before. Climatk. — Whilst the region possesses the evenness of temperature, brilliancy of atmosphere, and other attendants of alpine situations, the climate is greatly aft'ected by aspect, and the mean heat, range, and distribuiion of moisture dif- fer on its northern and southern flanks. Flora. — Natuie has enriched this magnificent range of mountains with a varied and abundant vegetation. It is singular, that some of the genera that do not usually pro- duce trees, have species her(> which attain a considerable !l 438 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. I .. bulk, aujuniperus,salix,ligustruni, rubus,and rhododendron. Though the ranj»e of its alpine regions varies considerably with aspect, the very brief notice we must here take of them will be found generally correct. 1. The Region of Lowland Cultivation extends to 3,200 or 4,400 feet. This correctly does not belong to the Himma- leh Region, but to that embracing the plains of Hindostan. Tropical productions prevail, as scitamiueae, epiphytic orchidaceae, numerous tropical forest trees, the sugar-cane, pine-apple, mango, banana, and bamboo. 2. The Region of Woods extends to 11,000 feet. The vegetation is dense and luxuriant ; the more conspicuous genera are laurus, quercus, pinus, ilex, magnolia, gordonia, prunus, pyrus, fraxinus, michelia, podocarpus, morus, ulmus, berberis, and populus. ,'3. The Reyion of Shrubs extends to 12 or 13,000 feet. Many of the genera f the last region enter this, but when of arborescent habit they universally become stunted and dwarf; salix, vaccinium, betula, juniperus, taxus, cupressus, stunted species of quercus and pinus, viburnum, lonicera, rhododendron, rubus, ribes, rosa, and ulex. Among her- baceous plants are potentilla, fragaria, gentiana, viola, saxi- fraga, salvia, dracocephalum, plectranthus, ranunculus, polyanthus, primula, antennaria, ageratum, sida, and gera- nium. 4. The Region of Grasses extends to 14,C00 feet. It abounds in natural pasture land. 5. The Region of Cryptogamic Plants extends to the line of perpetual snow. Lichens and mosses prevail of identical genera, and also to a great extent, species, with the high latitudes of Europe. Eelations, — As we increase the height above the plains, the affinities with the neighbouring regions become less distinct, and others are established with distant latitudes r THK SI'AIN RKt;[t)N. 439 and other mountain ranges. They soon become very inti- mate with the Alps and Pyrenees, and even with the Altai and Andes. Genera common to both are represented by similar species, and sometimes one tree or shrub seems to occupy the place of another ; thus, abies dumosa replaces the pinus pumila of Europe. There are a few species identical with Europe, as hedera helix, rosa canina, r. ipinosissima, and salix babylonica. (Levant.) American affinities are recognized in magnolia, juglans, careya, age- ratum, photinia, and osmorhiza. I '1 XLII.— THE SPAIN REGION. Extent. — Spain and Portugal, with so much of the mountain chains and southern side of the Pyrenees as is devoted to the cultivation of the plains ; and the islands of Minorca, Majorca, and Loiga. Physical Characters. — The European peninsula is traversed in all directions by numerous mountain ranges, often of the most forbidding sterility. Nor are the features of the intervening plains frequently much improved by any important accession to the vegetation. The most promising verdure will usually be found collected in the valleys, or along the courses of rivers and streams, and in some of the most fertile lower plains. The different provinces present some variety in this respect Climate. — The summers are warm, and the winters mild. Some parts are generally dry and severe throughout the year ; but the northern parts, with a milder climate, are liable to much rain and heavy weather. Flora. — The vegetation everywhere is characterized by the evergreen oaks ; the habit, mode of growth, and foliage of which are peculiar. These consist of several species. i I'L 440 TIIK UKCilONS OF VK(,KTATI()N. l:: some ol which aro at present imperfectly defined. Among them quercus suber is distinguished as composing large woods ; and q. ilex and q. tanzin are abundant. Entire woods of those trees are frequent in Aragon, Catalonia, the Castilles, Kstremadura, Andalusia, Valencia, and Mur- cia. Quercus valentina of Cavanailles is soon in the eastern part of Valencia and other parts of the south. Q. australis of Link, a fine species, is associated with q. suber near Gibraltar. Q. fastigiata is found on the fianks of the Pyrenees. Of the deciduous kinds q. rubur is very abun- dant In the northern |)rovinces, not existing in the central. Sometimes (j. pubescens accompanies it. Q. coccifora prefers the south, where it abounds extensively, and ex- tends as far north as the centre of Spain. Q. aegilops is met with in the Sierra Morena. Captain Cook, in his Sketches in Spain, regards the vegetation as conveniently distributed into three divisions. The Jirst division comprehends Galicia, Asturias, the 13asque provinces. Upper Navarre, and the maritime parts of Old Castile. It is distinguished for the humidity of the atmosphere, equable temperature, its pastures, verdure, and luxuriant vegetation. It produces little or no oil, whie of an inferior quality, but much valuable timber. Quercus robur, q. ilex, menziesia daboeci, pteris aquilina, ulex stricta, u. europea, are chiefly characteristic. The second division includes the Castiles, Estremadura, Aragon, part of Catalonia, and the upper portions of \'alencia, Murcia, and Andalusia. The climate is remarkable for its dryness. In some parts the olive is abundant; and Aragon is famous for its large pine forests. Quercus ilex, q. tauzin, q. prasina, and numerous cistus and helianthemum prevail. The tMrd division occupies the shores of the Mediterranean, the western coast of Andalusia, and the of the Guadolquivir, as far as Cordova. The suui- ►alley TIIK MI'AIN RKCiKJN. 141 nicrs are hut and dry, and the winters mild. Syugencsiuus l)lanta are abundant, as are alt of the Me- diterranean, cistiuca> is found in the grcatc^t inlensitv iu 'I i 1 I 442 TIIK KIKilONS or VKdKTATloN. I I thu Spain Kogiun; labiaia> in tlii> Asia ^^inor Region ; curyophyllciT in the Dannim Kc^^'ion, hut arc nearly etjually numerous iti Asia Minor, proportionately few in Spain, and many Hpecien are indigenouH to the north of Europe and Siberia. IJoragineu^ are perhaps niont numerous in the Danube Uogion, though very abundant in Asia Minor ; less so more to the westward, but increase in the Canary Islands. And oleacene are most prevalent in the Italy Ilpgion, though fraxinus has most of its species in North America. The Balearic Islands have a few peculiar plants. To Minorca are ascribed buxus balearica, arum crinitun*, caprifolium implexum, ligusticum balearicinn, rubia angus- tifolia ; and to Majorca rubia lucida. Relations. — Several tropical plants have migrated to this region, and imparted distinct features, such as cha- ma'rops humilis, phoenix dactylifera, agave americana, opuntia vulgaris, and other cacteoj. Its most decided pe- culiarity, as an European region, is derived from the presence of many African species. Roth these features are more strongly impressed in the south, and the scanty vegetation about Gibraltar is characterized by genista unifolia, spartium junceum, teucrium valentinum, phlomis fruticosa, characTrops humilis, and opuntia vulgaris. A collection of phaenogamous plants made by V'on Martins at Algesiras contained 14J) species belonging to the south of Europe, CO to temperate Europe, and 17 to Africa ; and of the whole number 58 were indigenous to Great Britain. A very interesting relation with the South Africa Region is displayed through erica, which has here several distinct species ; and indeed the prevalence of the genus in a portion of Europe is remarkable when we reflect what a broad barrier intervenes, how truly a cape genus it is, and how very sparingly it is diffused elsewhere, even Legion ; iMjunlly ihi, and ipc urid in the Minor ; Canary e Italy I North ts. To rinitun', I angus- rated to as cha- lericana, ided pe- rom the features scanty genista phlomis lins. A Martins south Africa ; 0 Great 1 Africa several genus ct what us it is, c, even IIIK ITALY KKOION. •I4:{ le when the climate and circumstances seem favourable, the whole of the two Americas not offerinp a single species. More relations with the same region may he traced through pusserina and others. X LI 11.— Till': ITALY REGION. Extent.— Italy, to the south of the Alps, that portion of France south of the Cevennos, and Sicily, Malta, Corsica, and Sardinia. Physical Cmaiiactehs. — Those who have entered Italy from the north by way of the Alps, have been always im- pressed by the sudden change and interesting character rt the vegetation. The north of Italy is cninently fruitful, and in the Milanese the soil, aided by irrigation, yields four crops of grass in the year. This is the country of the Parmesan cheese. Prolonged irrigation destroys the grass, and a rotation of crops is conducted. The sluices art shut, and the soil subjected to courses of hemp, leguminous plants, oats, wheat, and maize, for five years. After this, grasses accumulate, and are assisted by irrigation, usually for fifteen years. The territory about Genoa is rocky and unproductive, and much of the south is in the same condition, and some parts almost too unhealthy to cultivate. In Sicily, the lava fields are planted with cactus, which after thirty years become fitted for cultivation. Climate. — Generally the seasons are warm and even, and the temperature rarely below 32", but in some places, as at Naples, they are liable to extremes. At Home the mean temperature is ;j9"5, of winter 45"8, of summer 75" 2 ; at Toulon the mean is 62°, of winter 48" 4, of summer 74" 8, and at Hieres, in the neighbourhood, the orange ceases 444 THE UECiKJNS OT VEGETATKJN. 'I to grow ; at Palermo, in Sicily, the annual mean is 65», and the range, in twenty years observations, from 105" to84», or seventy- one degrees ; the number of rainy days is only 6/>, and the fall of rain 21*1 inches; the cotton plant, banana, and sngar-cane all re[)ay cultivation. The amount of rain and rainy days varies somewhat; in Provence the number of rainy days is only 67, in Florence 103, fall of rain 31'6 ; in Rome, rainy days 117, fall of rain 39 inches, but at 1 olluezzo in Fruili, and at Carfagnano in the Apennines, the amount is said to be respectively 8*2 and 92 inches. More rain falls to the west than to the east of the Apen- nines. Flora. -As an European region, it is distinguished by the open character of its vegetation, the dry juiceless ever- gr "en foliage, absence of real forest, and the mixture of tropical and sub-tropical forms. The olive, myrtle, fig, vine, and pomegranate, abound everywhere. Several of its grasses are peculiar, and some attain a large size, as arundo donax. In a climate like that of Italy, there will be a very considerable difference in the vegetation of the sea- tions, and the warm rains of spring are especially favour- able to the presence of asphodelesc and similar plants; ornithogalum, muscari, erythronium, ixia, bulbocodium, anemone, adonis, clematis, ranunculus, fedia, lotus, medi- cago, bellis, chrysanthemum, are now numerous; the more permanent vegetation is derived from certain species o* quercus and pinus, aeer, pseudo platanus, diospyros lotus, paliurus australis, morus nigra, celtis australis, capparis tijjinosa, acanthus mollis, plumbago europea, erythrina corallodendron, smilax aspera, cassia italica, phyllyrea, hibiscus, erica, cistus, buxus, pistacia, ornus, numerous boragincjp, labiata>, scrophularinecT, solanea^, and mal- vacea'. SicUtj has a flora extremely similar to Italy, and with TIfK DAMIU-; KKCION. 4'i:> ■' ' ! very few peculiarities. In tlie introduced plants there is a jjreater resemblance to the tropics. Malta, from its situation, may be supposed to have more African plants tlian Sicily. Its total flora is about *2()0 species, nearly the whole of which it is likely have migrated here. Spix and Von Martins collected 150 kinds, of whicli 56 were common with Germany, })() with the south of Europe, and only 4 with the neighbouring coast of Africa. It may have a few plants of its own, as fungus mclitensis, yucca tenuifolia, and riciuusarmatus. Corsica offers a few j)eculiar plants, and the summits of the hills are covered with pinus laricio. Sardinia has supplied us with common parsley, petro selinum sativum, but it is not limited to the island. Relations. — In many respects this is a parallel region with the Spain Region, for tropical features show themselves in both, but in the latter are more mixed with African. Labiatae, though numerous in both, are more abundant here. In the habit of the vegetation it corresponds in many respects with the Asia Minor, California, South Africa, and New South Wales Regions. The Cape of G;)od Hope genera of iridcae, gladiolus, moraea, trichonema, have each represen- tatives here. Putoria calabrica, a cinchonaceous plant, is met with in the south. XLIV.— THE DANUBE REGION. iicl with Extent. — That portion of Europe to the South of the Carpathians, and between the Adriatic and Black Seas, and consisting of Hungary, the Turkish provinces in Europe, and Greece, much of which is fertilized by the Danube and its tributaries. The southern extreme of Greece is in many respects very similar to Asia Minor. 44() THK REGIONS OK VKfJiyi'ATION. Physical Characters. — No part of Europe is superior in tlie capabilities of the soil, yet none has been rendered so little available. From some of the productions it would appear more favourable than any other portion of this quarter of the world, for the growth of several of the plants of warm latitudes. The far greater part is still covered by forest, and there are vast marshes where rice is extensively cultivated. Climate. — The summers are warm, and the winters not usually severe, but the temperature is liable to vicisi- tudes. Flora. — The forest, which abounds over much of this region, is composed of a little variety in its trees ; in Hungary, species of prunus enter largely into it, sometimes with multitudes of fraxinus rotundifolia ; whole forests of cherries and apricots arc seen in Wallachia, and the elevated lands sustain large numbers of firs, oaks, pines, find beeches; daphne cretica and spartium parviflorum characterize the shores of Gallipoli ; the plum is everywhere cultivated in the greatest abundance, and is the source of a brandy called raky ; rhus cotinus abounds in Sclavonia and the neighbouring provinces ; and in the southern and south- eastern states are large groves of the olive. Isatis tinctoria, or woad, exists in Hungary, and other species are indigenous; Valeriana celtica, or spikenard, seems to prefer a certain elevation ; daphne, nerium, clematis, capparis, arbutus, amygdalus, populus, acer, asparagus, orobanche, antirrhinum, astragalus, pyrus, Crataegus, spiraea, gypsophila, thalictrum, helleborus, artemisia, chrysocoma, cnicus, carlina, kitaibelia, bubon, seseli, are all character- istic. Quercus racemosa is confined to the south, and the melon and the vine are largely cultivated in Hungary. Relations. — In Spain the vegetation partakes of African features, and in this region of that of Central and TIIK ALI'S KKdlOX. 447 Western Asia. If it liere wants the picturesque beauty of Italy, it is also without the dry sapless aspect of its trees ; and the smiling circumscribed character of the vegetation is compensated by luxuriance and vigour. Those plants which like shelter, as certain ranunculaceae and ferns, are more abundant, and for a similar reason crucifeaj are pro- portionately numerous. Mesembryanthcmum has two or three species in Greece. ■ I XLV.— THE ALPS REGION. Extent. — The elevated sides of the mountain chains in the south of Europe, above the line of lowland cultivation, to their summits, or the limits of the vegetation. The principal are the Pyrenees, the different portions of the Alps, the Carpathians, the Apennines, and Mount ^T'jtna. Physical Chauacters. — It comprises an extent of rug- ged and bare mountains, but often sheltering within them rich moist valleys, and small verdant plains. Primitive rocks chiefly prevail, and sometimes with such steep scarped sides as to preclude the assemblage of soil and vegetation. In Mount TEtna, and in some parts of the Alps, there are large fields of lava, which, after a certain period, become clothed with plants. Climate. — This will vary from temperate to frigid, ac- cording to the elevation ; it is also liable to fluctuations, and to be disturbed by brisk winds and storms. The mean temperature of St. Gothard at 6,390 feet is 30° 4. On St. Bernard the fall of rain is 63 inches, which seems great for the latitude, since the mean of twenty places in the lower valleys of the Alps is 56- 5 inches. The mean temperature of /Etna, at the base, is ()4°. ' It k 448 THE TlFfiTONS OF VEGETATIOX i'V 1 m li Flora. — The vegetable productions of higher latitudes gradually appear as the elevation is increased. At first are seen thick forests of their trees, till by degrees they become dwarf and stunted, and are then succeeded by shrubs; after these come certain herbaceous plants, with a large proportion of grasses, large spaces covered with lichens, and lastly perpetual snows. The flowers of this region are often distinguished for the pureness and brilliancy of their colours. The characteristic plants are chiefly derived from geiitiana, campanula, phyteuma, cher- leria, androsace, primula, aretia, soldanella, ramonda, helleborus, aconitum, saxifraga, pceonia, cytisus, and rho- dodendron. The Pyrenees are situated between 4'2'' and 4.3" N. lati- tude, and some of the highest peaks attain from ten to twelve thousand feet. The lower portions of both the north and south sides are covered with forests. The oaks on the north side, as quercus robur, q. tauzin, q. pubescens, q. fastigiata, but no evergreen species, these being con- fined to the southern flanks, and the genus ceases at 3,260 • feet. Pines now prevail, pin'.is sylvestris being found on both sides, at its upper limits being mixed with p. unci- nate, which soon after appears alone and closes in the trees at 7,800 feet. Rhododendron ferrugineum now grows in the valleys in vast quantities, with some northern shrubs. Some herbaceous species of cold climates with lichens soon after close in tlio vegetation among the perpetual snows, which commence at 8,950 feet. Abies communis and larix europea, have no existence here. The ever- green oaks cease at the village of Andorra. Several of the alpine parts of the Spain Region belong here, as the Sierra Nevada in Granada, Sierra de Estreila in Portugal, Sierra de Cuenca, heights of the Guadarrama, and others. ' THE ALPS RRCTOX. 449 titudes t first !S they ed by with a I with of this 33 and nts are , cher- .monda, nd rho- N. lati- ten to oth the he oaks bescens, ng con- it 3,2^0 )und on unci- le trees ows in shrubs, lichens rpetual mmunis le ever- Several here, Estreila arrama, The Alps stretch across the south of Europe between 44" and 46" N. latitude, and present many greatly elevated peaks and ranges; Mont Blanc, the loftiest, attaining 15,730 feet. Their physical history and flora are scarcely of inferior interest to the Himma-leh mountains, but are far too extensive to be detailed here. The lowland cultivation ceases at about 2,000 feet, and is succeeded by forests of oak, chesnut, and pines, to 3,900 feet. Betula alba, rho- dodendron, and stunted spruce, reach 7,800 feet, salix her- bacea extending something higher. The line of perpetual congelation is about 8,760 feet. The Carpathian Mountains are situated in the east of Europe, between 45° and 50° N. lat. There are also some lofty peaks within this range, detached from the general chain. Mount Loranitz attains 8,436 feet, but the average height is somethiug below this. The lowland cultivation ceases at 1,500 feet. The region of woods succeeds to 4,600 feet, the lower part being chiefly occupied by the oak, birch, and particularly the fir. Next is the region of shrubs, and here also are a few stunted trees of pinus mughus, extending to 5,(500 feet. And to these succeed a number of low alpine plants to 6,500 feet, or the summits of the mountains. When the elevation is greater, the sur- face is occupied by lichens to 8,000 feet, constituting the region of cryptogamic plants. Mount Mtna is situated in 37" 43° N. lat., and has an elevation of 1 1,360 feet. Observers diff^er as to the lines of vegetation. The lowland cultivation of the vine and maize ceases at from 2,'200 to 3,300 feet. The orange, lemon, and lime attain 1,900 feet, date 1,600, gossypium herbaceum 1,000, morus nigra 2,500, fig 2,200. The plants characteristic of the lava beds are andropogon hirtus, a. distachyos, lagurus ovatus, rumex scutatus, Valeriana rubra, plumbago europea, thymus nepeta, satureja greoa VOL. II. G Tt ii c 450 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. ranunculus bullatus, capparis rupestris, scrophularia bi- color, heliotropium bocconi, mandragora autumnalis, senecio chrysanthemifolius, daphne gnidium, spartium infestum, solanum sodoma?um, ricinus africanus, smilax aspera, eu- phorbia, linaria, &c. The region of woods extends to 6,500, the oak and chestnut ceasing at 4,350 feet, and pinus sylvestris at the limit of the region. The region of shrubs ceases at 8,125 feet, and contains bushes of juni- perus, berberis, betula, and fagus. The region of grasses ceases at 9,750 feet, and of cryptogamic plants at 10,000 feet. Relations. — Rhododendron, and some few others, carry our associations to the alpine regions of Asia and Ame- rica, to lesser heights in China, and to some northern latitudes. Sempervivum abounds in species in the Ca- naries, yet on ^tna not a trace of it exists, but is replaced by sedum, which is equally numerous, but has no existence in the Canaries. XLVL— THE CENTRAL EUROPE REGION. Extent. — That portion of the centre of Europe to the north of the southern chain of mountains is distinguished for a certain individuality in its vegetation, and the exten- sive cultivation of wheat. The southern limit is bounded by the Alps and the Carpathians to the Caspian Sea, and the Pyrenees and the Cevennes, thus excluding a portion of the south of France. To the north it includes Den- mark, and a part of the south extremes of Sweden and Norway, and is separated from the Volga Region by a line commencing in the Baltic on the coast in 55" N. lat., and traversing the southern provinces of Russia to the sea of Azof. Its northern limit is in the vicinity of the mi. h > THE CENTRAL EUROPE REGION. 451 ia bi- lenecio estum, •a, eu- nda to }t, and iTion of »f juni- grasses 10,000 ■s, carry d Ame- lorthern the Ca- replaced jxistence ION. pe to the nguished 16 exten- bounded Sea, and portion les Den- eden and ion by a 5" N. lat., o the sea ty of the boundary of acer, pseudo-platanus, moms nigra, populus alba. p. nigra, pyrus raalus, the vine and the chestnut ; and the region generally may be regarded as that portion of Europe where wheat is most advantageously cultivated for food, to the north soon yielding to rye, and to the south to Indian corn and rice. Wheat is stated to be most pro- fitably cultivated between 33" and 50" N. lat., and to cease entirely at 60° or 6'z\ The British islands complete the region. Physical Characters. — According to Balbi, the surface of Europe presents several remarkable geographical fea- tures. Its centre consists of an extensive plain of con- siderable productiveness, and to the north in Russia it rises to a broad table-land of about 1,150 feet of elevation. Another important table-land occupies the centre of Spain* having an elevation of 2,300 feet, that of the Jura Alps attains from 1,750 to 3,850 feet, and another in Piedmont from 600 to 2,000 feet. But a far greater diversity is im- parted by the several mountain chains of the Pyrenees, the Alps, the Carpathians, the Apennines, and the Dofrines, which considerably modify the climate and the character of the vegetation. Besides there are several valleys which serve to guide certain rivers to the ocean, and which are pre-eminent both for their beauty and fertility. Of these the most distinguished are the valleys of the Lower Danube, the Rhine, the Drave, and the Po. Formerly, by far the greater portion of the surface was covered with forest, much of which has been gradually removed by cultivation, but very extensive tracts in Russia and Poland are still in this state, and throughout Europe generally a good deal of forest still remains. On the whole, the soil is good and fruitful, but there are spots consisting of little else than rocks, or where the occasional invasion of the sea renders it unserviceable, or where bog, morass, or heath exists, to G G 2 452 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. i., . %A i.: the exclusion of cultivation, as in the countries south of the Baltic. Climate. — Malte-Brun and Balbi assign to Europe three well-defined climates ; the Atlantic distinguished for its even temperature, and its moisture ; the climate of the north-west of Europe being one of extremes of temperature : and the climate of the south, which, with its higher tempe- rature, holds a middle station between the two others, i^ware, however, that this division very imperfectly ex- pressed all the important features, a further seven-fold one was proposed. Europe is so situated, between extensive seas on one side and a large mass of land and range of mountains on the other, that it cannot fail to be greatly governed by their influence over climate, and to offer some variety. Compared with other climates of a similar latitude, it will be found to be mild, less exposed to vicissitudes, and that vegetation attains a higher northern station. Between the west and east portions there are certain differences. The mean heat may be nearly the same through the same parallel, but the distribution in the seasons will be diffei }nt. On the west side, the climate being equable, the range throughout the year is not great, and the mean of the summer and winter months will not be in excess ; the atmosphere is also moister, and the number of rainy days greater. On the east side, however, the mean of these two seasons is prone to extremes, and to take respectively higher and lower stations. Whatever differences occur in the mean heat of the vear will be in favour of the eastern portions. The result of this on vegetation is, that plants which prefer a climate free from extremes, and that move with the mean temperature, will take a higher northern station on the eastern side as is visible in some of the plants of Norway and Sweden, the apple for instance ; and those which revel in a hot summer, and are indifferent to THE CENTRAL EUROPE REGION. 453 of the Europe ihed for a of the jrature : tempe- others. jtly ex- fold one xtensive •ange of 3 greatly fer some latitude, ides, and Between ferences. the same difFei mt. le range n of the ess ; the uny days lese two pectively occur in e eastern lat plants lat move northern e of the nee ; and ferent to the extremes of winter, will be found occupying a limit gradually extending towards the north-east. In the Central Europe Region, the circ- .ustances of the climate are less strongly marked. The mean varies from 48" to 54", and the usual annual range from 28" to 83". The atmosphere is often much loaded with moisture, and the rainy days are nearly half the total to the year, though the quantity of rain which falls does not exceed from 22 to 30 inches. The mean hydrometric state of the atmo- sphere is four or six degrees below the mean temperature. In a climate so clouded, the power of the sun's rays over vegetation must be supposed to fall far short of their effects in lower and more brilliant latitudes. Flora. — The indigenous productions are those of a tem- perate latitude. The climate holding a middle station, the plants of the south wander here, and those of the north do not find it ungenial ; it has thus a large proportion of species for the extent of surface, and the more important groups of plants are freely represented. The region will therefore display, with a number of species, also a number of genera and families, the proportions of the latter to the former bring greater than usual. In the forest trees, how- ever, the number of species as compared with other regions is singularly small, and genera extensively represented else- where have here often only solitary species. Nearly all have deciduous leaves, and though grasses have not an im- portant numerical relation to the flora, they flourish in great luxuriance. These trees often manifest a partiality to par- ticular soils, and in the forest, which clothes a larger por- tion of Poland, the oak, yew, ash, poplar, chestnut, and willow, are found on the clayey soil, whilst the pine and the fir occupy exclusively the sandy soil. Inconspicuous flowers prevail greatly, as might be expected wliere amen- taceous and coniferous plants are so numerous, but in other .^ 1W' 454 THE KK(JI0N8 OF VECiKTATION. regions it is not unusual to have an intermixture of attrac- tive flowers even in the trees, such as is not seen here. The details of the region may be sought for in ranuncu- lacea?, cruciferce, carj Dphylleai, geraniaceai, saxifrages?, leguminosffi, particularly the section viciea?, rosaccfc, stel- latoj, compositae, boraginea;, ericacene, gentianeco, labiatJO, scrophularineco, polygoneap, chenopodeic, the families of amentacea?, orchidace.ne, juncese, cyperaceae, gramine.T, and a large proportion of the cryptogamic families. UmbellifercD have a slight preponderance over other regions, as will be seen in their distribution. The total number of species is 1,009, but the duplicate habitats are here included. In the Central Europe Region there are represented 172 species; Danube Region, 161 ; Italy Re- gion, 152; Asia Minor Region, 90; Spain Region, b2; Barbary Region, 69; South Africa Region, 6y; Iroquois Region, 6 1 ; Volga Region, 53 ; Siberia Region, 50 ; Chili and Peru Region, 45 ; New South Wales Region, 29 ; Pa- raguay Region, 19; Patagonia Region, 10; other regions, 216. They are here found to exist in far greater numbers 'n the northern hemisphere, and particularly in Europe. In the latter they are most densely assembled in the cen< tral, southern, and south-eastern portions, whence we may infer their partiality for a warm temperate climate, for warm summers and extremes in the seasons rather than the reverse, and lastly, for an atmosphere tolerably supplied with moisture. A few species cling to Western Europe along the shores of the Atlantic, and are not found in the eastern countries. Some liave a partiality for elevated stations in the Pyrenees, Alps, Andes, and Mexican high- lands, and the Asia Minor Region derives its species in great part from Caucasus. France is chiefly included in this region ; it has an area of 200,925 square miles, and 5,966 species ; or, in the pro- portion of one species to about 34 square miles. rilK VOLCIA REOION. 4;"3.* >f attrac- !en here, ranuncu- tifragea?, DcTC, stel- , labiatJO, milies of nete, and /er other rhe total bitats are there are Italy Re- gion, b2; Iroquois &0; Chili 29; Pa- regions, numbers Europe, the cen- e we may mate, for than the supplied 1 Europe nd in the elevated jan high- jecies in s an area 1 the pro- The hritiah hies are estimated to contain 110,181 square miles, and their total vegetation, omitting algae and fungi, is composed of 2,39.*) species, or one to every 4B scpiare miles. These arc distributed among 9i)9 genera and 112 families. The value of the genus, or its average pro- portion of species, is 3*7 ; of the family, or its proportion of genera, is 5*7 ; of the exogenous genus, 2*8 ; of the same family, 47; ol' the endogenous genus, 2-8; of the same family, ()'7; of the cryptogamic genus, 8*5: of the same family, 13. The flora has little to distinguisli it from the continent of Europe. Ireland has 682 exogense, 211 endogenae, and 41 ferns. Some plants are found there not indigenous to Great Britain, but generally occurring to the south of Europe ; as, arbutus unedo, menziesia polifolia, papaver nudicaule, sedum palustre, arenaria ciliata, saxifraga umbrosa, pin- guicula grandiflora, trichomanes brevisetum, hookeria la}tevirens, and h. splanchnoides. The two last are quite peculiar. Relations. — Besides the close relations to neighbour- ing regions, some interesting affinities exist with the dis- tant Patagonia and Van Diemen's Land Regions. Com- pared with its American parallel, the Iroquois Region, it fails greatly in variety, and particularly in the forest trees. XLVII. THE VOLGA REGION. Extent. — Russia, to the west of the Ural Mountains, and to the north of a line commencing at the fifty-fifth degree of latitude on the Baltic, and extending to the Sea of Azof; with the whole of Norway and Sweden, with 450 TIIK UEOIONS OF VEOKTATION. the exception of u small portion of their southern ex- tremes. Physical Chaiiacteus. — Russia consists chiefly of an extensive plain of inconsiderable elevation, and dotted with numerous lakes and marshes, and Norway and Sweden are intersected by lofty mountains. Climate. — To the eastward the climate is one of ex- tremes, the summers being hot and the winters long and severe. On some days the temperature is higiier than is usual many degrees to the south. The western coun- tries have a more even climate, but still a rigorous one. Flora. — The extensive and often magnificent forest, which covers nearly the whole of this region, is composed chiefly of pinus sylvestris, mingled with abies picea, and u. communis; and pinus cembra is met with towards the Ural Mountains. Though the species of pine are fewer here than in the south, the trees are of far finer growth ; a circumstance that occurs also with the eucalyptus in Van Diemen's Land, where, though there are fewer spe- cies, the trees grow much larger. Sheltered by the forest, a dense undergrowth flourishes, of species of vac- cinium, andromeda, empetrum, rubus, salix, betula, and arctostaphylos. Conifera*, amentaceac, saxifrageae, cruci- ferae, and ranunculacese, are particularly prominent, and some members of umbellifera^ caryoMhyllea!, and bora- ginea;, are mixed with the vegetati jn, but are rapidly disappearing. An English botanist visiting this region will find most of the northern plants of his own island, but will perhaps be more surprised to see what an altered character a vegetation of similar species assumes here ; for he will find many plants very common, which were rare at home, and others before regarded as common weeds are here prized. Scnecio jocoba3a, so frequent a nuisance in our meadows, is in Norway an object of diligent search. Several important plants have their northern limits in THE OCEAN REfSloN. 457 tliia region. Qucrcus robiir ceases at 01", fraxinus excel- sior (»()", fagus sylvatica 60", prunus cerasus 57" — 60", tilin intunnedia 63", abics communis 67", populus alba and p. nigra 56", pluus sylvcstris 70"; tbo ash, alder, aspen, and juniper, in Norway, reach the arctic circle, or 07", but cease near the Urals at (50". Alj.ine vegetation can scarcely bo supposed to exist in a region which possesses so many of its characters, and any attempts to give it prominence will be attended with very feeble results. In Lapland, between 06" and 68", accord- ing to the statements of Wahlenbcrg, the Region of Trees attains 1,800 feet; the Region of Shrubs succeeds to '2,500 feet, and is closed in by lichens and perpetual snow at 8,300 feet. In Finmark, according to Von Buch, at 70", pinus sylvestris grows to 730 feet ; betula, larix, and vaccinium, to 3,100 feet; then cryptogamic vegetation and perpetual snow at 3,300 feet. Relations. — The parallel regions in America are filled with forests of noble trees of abies instead of pinus, mixed with cupressus thyoides, and occasionally a pine, crat{L»gus, or fraxinus ; besides this there is much similarity in the vegetation. i XLVIIL— THE OCEAN REGION. region Extent. — The shores and shoal waters of the ocean through all latitudes, from high-water mark to a depth at present uncertain, but which most probably is incon- siderable. Physical Characters. — The medium in which marine plants live may, in several ways, affect the functions of those which select it for their habitation. The influence of the atmosphere is nearly excluded ; and light, even at '/I \l 4^)8 small depths TFIK REGIONS OF VEGETATION. greatly obstructed. The saline constituents must be regarded as essential to their well being, though I have seen a fucus and a potamogeton growing together in water of a very slight degree of saltness. In many cases they evidently display a selection as to their place of attachment, and usually prefer mud or soft rocks to harder substances. They appear particularly scarce in coral islands, perhaps because the coral animal feeds on them. Climate. — The seasons and temperature have a decided influence. In the summer months this flora is in great vigour, and when a season occurs eminently favourable to vegetation, it is proportionately affected. From their geographical distribution it may be inferred that these plants are sensible of small variations in the habitual tem- perature. Within the tropics those living in shoal waters are surrounded by a temperature varying from 74" to 86". At greater depths the temperature gradually and evenly descends. A decrease, however, does not always happen. In '25" N. lat., when the air was 67" and the surface of the sea 69°, the temperature at 35 feet was 73". The tem- perature at the surface will generally be found to fluctuate about the mean of the latitude, but is liable to be disturbed by currents, as is the case with the gulf stream, which so modifies and warms the climate of the Bermudas. In high latitudes the surface may be sometimes below the mean temperature, and an increase occur for certain depths, but this will rarely exceed 42" or 44". Flora. — Notwithstanding the uniformity of the ocean, the facilities of diff'usion, and simple organ "zation of the vegetable beings which inhabit it, they will be found often remarkably circumscribed in their limits of growth. The same laws prevail as on the land, that there shall be every- where variety, and that under similar circumstances in widely separated localities there shall be close relations. I. 1 THE OCEAN REGION. 459 ocean, of the d often The every- lees in lations. Looking over, then, this extensive region, the different deep inlets, gulfs, and seas, will each be found to have their own peculiar kinds, and sometimes in sucli numbers as almost to justify their exaltation into separate regions. It is said that the species found in the Red Sea are almost entirely different from those of the coast of Syria, though separated by so small a portion of land. In our own island rhodomenia cristata and odonthalia dentata are confined to the northern shores; and fucus tuberculatus, laurencia tenuissiuia, rhodomenia jubata, rhodomela pinastroides, iridaoa ensiformis, and others, to the southern. The flora of this region is entirely derived from the na- tural family of alga?, but does not comprehend ail its species, since many prefer fresh waters. Lamouroux has calculated that the total number of species may reach 5,000, or even 6,000. Fucus and laminaria exist in enor- mous beds in the high latitudes of both hemisphercj. Se- veral species of sargassum replace the former within the tropics, where they are often densely crowded on the sur- face, and generally in an active state of vegetation. Tam- nophera, caulerpa, gelidium, amansia, and dictyoteaj are chitfly tropical. Codium tomentosum is found in nearly all seas throughout the world. Macrocystis belongs to the southern hemisphere from the equator to 45° S. lat , and durvillea and lessonia are likewise limited to this part of the world. Thaumasia ovalis, a remarkable plant, is foun^ only at Ceylon. Cystoseira has several species on our own coasts, and others abound in the northern hemisphere, but a peculiar group is met with in New Holland, where, Gre- ville remarks, it is as peculiar as the aphyllous acacias are on the land. Relations. — Between the terrestrial and wiarine vegeta- tion the link is perfect and complete. Of the latter, the mass unquestionably find the waters of the ocean essential i« 460 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. I'll to their existence. Some, however, of closely allied organ- ization prefer fresh or sweet waters ; and there are a few which live indifferently in both. With lichens, hepaticae, and fungi, they have much structural resemblance, and like them prefer cold climates, where they all flourish in greater numbers and luxuriance. Moisture also is necessary to the existence of them all, and the selection of certain lichens and fungi of old walls may be due to the saline sub- stances to be found there, and which the marine plants re- ceive from the ocean. INDEX. Abingdon Tslsnd.i. 192 Acapa Bay, Marquesas, i, 358) AcAPULco, directions for entering the port of, i. 143 ; the Boca Chica, ill. 144 ; anchorage, 144 ; Point Gilfo, ill. ; survey, 145 ; description of the harbour and town, 145; San Lorenzo, 144; Port of San Carlos, 145, 150 ; Obispo Rock, fort, 146, 151, 153; commercial ruin of the town, ib.; earthquakes at, 147, 150; castle of San Diego, or San Carlos, 150, 153 ; ancient commerce, gal- leons from Manilla, present ex- ports, (Sec, 151 ; climate and rainv season, jV*. ; costume, 152; dis- eases 153 ; military defences, 153 ; manners, and peasantry, 154, 155 ; robberies, and an execution, 154 Acheen, the Sulphur arrives at, ii. 25i, 252; Sultan and rajahs of, 252, 253, 259; rivei, productions, journey inland, 252, 255; return of Captain Belcher from the in- terior, 257; supplies, 259, 261; observations at, 260 Admiralty Islands, ii. 78 Africa; th" Mozambique coast, li. 290; the Cape of Good Hope, Delagoa Bay, &c., 291 Aleutian allies, or subjects of the Russians, i. 72 Aleutian Islands, the, i. 71 Alexandre, Mr., i. 313 Alligator Creek, i. 216 Alligators, i. 14, 216, 219, 244 Amapala, volcano of, i. 235 ; its alti- tude, 236 Amblau, Island of, ii. 108 Amboina, Island and Bay, ii. 104, 108; the author's reception at. and his survey of, 109 ; Fort Vic- toria, t6. ; cavern in the moun- tains, 111 ; ceremonies, 112 ; roads, 114; fishing, ib,; Dutch garrison, 115 ; brig of war, 115 ; shells, 117; government of the Moluccas, 117 Ambou, Island of, ii. 36 ; king of, 51 America, observations on the former Spanish states on both sides of the frontier of N. and S. ; republi- can states, wars, towns, ports, and population : New Granada, i. 7 — 10 ; Carthagena, 7 — 9 ; Pa- nama and the isthmus, 12 — 23 ; San Francisco, revolution. 116; the old missions in California and Central America, 117 — 128 ; cho- lera in, 167 ; reliance of a part of the population on the friendhip of England, 134 ; Leon, 166; state of roads, (6. ; Peru, Lima, Callao, 196; Quito. 21i;; Chili, 196; the equador, 22, 208 ; separation of the states of Central, 232 ; their present condition, 233 ; line pro- posed for a canal from the Pacific to the Atlantic, connecting with the lakes, 237, 238; Costa Rica, 248; the Kodiacks, N. W. coast, 284; sailing of the surveying vessels from this continent, 378 America, Morth, interests of the United States in the Pacific al- luded -0, i. 52, 55, 66; U. S. men of war, 196, ii. 242 ; whalers of, i. 253; ii. 181; surveying squadron at the Feejees, 38, 46, ',8 Aiaerican missionaries, Sandwich Is- lands, i. 54, 263; ii. 25; seamen. 4G2 INDEX. i, 187, 253 ; ii.4, 181 ; settlers on the Wallamette and other rivers of the N. W. coast, i. 297, 298; hunters, and peltry, 117, 128, 300, 301 America, N.W. coast of, explored, i. C7— 113, 282—309 Amilpas ranp;e, i. 137 ; observations of the position of numerous coni- cal volcanoes, ib. Amirantes, the, ii. 385 Amov, expedition against, ii. 177, 229, captured, August, 1841, 232 Amsterdam, island of, ii. 97 Anambas Islands, ii. 241 Andrews, Mr., principal of a college at Lahaina, Sandwich Islands, i. 66 Anna INIaria Bay, Marquesas, i. 35? ; its beauty, 353; Anchorage, ib,; survey, 354 ; Pilot's Hill, ib. ; pro- ductions at this port, 363 Annatom, Island of, ii. 57 Anne, St., Island, S^chelles, ii. 270 Antonio, San, cotton-mill near, i. 29, 165, 177 ; sugar establishment at, 30, laO, 176 Anunghoy, capture of, ii. 153 ; hills, 176 ; fort, 177 ; towns near, ib. ; the back channels, ib. Aor, Pulo, ii. 242 Appendix, ii. 303 Arctic Circle, mud on the shores of the, i. 76, 81- Ariadne steamer, ii. 243 Arimoa, Island of, ii. 35; natives, their customs, and canoes, 85; weapons, 87 ; habitations, 88 Ascension, Island of, ii. 206 Aserradores, island of, i. 27 — 29, ol Asia Islands, i. 200 ; peak, ib. Asosusco range, i. 161 Astoria Fort, (Columbia River,) i. 289, 298 Astrolabe and Zel^e, expedition of the, i. 354 Astronomical observations, i. 16, 365 ; ii. 243, 264, &c. Ato, Ormigero, i. 21,22 Atooi, island of, its harbour, pro- duce, &c.,i.59; scenery and cli- mate, 67 ; the expedition revisits the port of Hanalae, 280 ; signs of improvement, 281 Aurora Horealis, observations re- specting, i. 69,92 Azores, the, St. Michael's, ii. 298 Babyroussa hog, the, ii. 118, 119 Bachelot, and Short, missionaries, i. 55—58, 270 Balabac, island of, ii. 133 Bale of Cotton rock, ii. 264 lianda Islands ; Manada or Celebes, Mindanao, Oby Major, &c., ii. 117 Banga Island, Feejees, ii. 47 ; an- chorage at, 54 Barbara, Santa, i. 320 ; anchorage, ib. ; the mission, 321 ; islands near, ib. BarfF, Messrs., missionaries, ii. 13, 28 Barlow, Capt. R. N. of the Nimrod, ii. 186, 214 Barn Island, near Singapore, ii. 246 Barometrical observations on the Viejo Volcano, i. 162 ; on the Apamala Volcano, 236 Barra Falsa, i. 27 Barron, Mr., Vice-consul at Tepic, i. 44, 137, 341 ; funeral of his daughter, 45 Barrow, Point, ii. 291 Bartholomew, St., i. 329 ; bay and anchorage, 330 Batahoya, village, i. 213 Bauza's chart, i. 40, 183 Beaver, and its fur, i. 129 Beecher, Major, Quarter-master Ge- neral, his services in China, ii. 187; his death, 215 Beechey, Captain, R. N. returns to England from ill-health, i. 3 ; re- marks b'T, 372; ii. 4, 23 Beef, supplies of, i. 135, 339 Beering's Bav, i. 80 Belcher, Captain, R, N., succeeds Captain Beechey in the command of the expedition for the survey of thePacitic,and]sailsfrom'Falmouth in the Echo steam-vessel, i. 4 ; instructions to, 6 ; sails from the Port Royal in the Forte for Cartha- gena, 7 ; blockades New Gra- nada, 7 ; surveys the Passo Caval- los, in the Serpent, 8 ; Arrives in the Nimrod at Chagres, 9 ; Visits Panama, 12, 16, 22 ; re- turns to Gorgona, 20 ; describes Panama, 23; sails in the Sulphur to'i'aboga, 20, 24 ; hisquarterly ob- servations, 25, 383 ; loss of his gig and coxswain, 36 ; sails from INDEX. 4G3 San Rlos, 45; visits tbe Snnd- wich Islands, 51 ; adjusts some affairs with Tamehamehsi the Tliird, 52 — 39; refits at Honolulu, 52; sails for Atooi, 60 ; fixes IMount St. Elias, and verifies the longitudes fixed by Vancouver, 67, 68 ; surveys Port Etches, 73 ; also the mountain and channel at Sitka, Norfolk Sound, 105; and Noot- ka Sound, ll4; sails to Cali- fornia, 116, 1 18 ; surveys the Rio Sacramento 118, 122, 132; bi-, reports on sui)plie8 of provisions, 135, 199, 339 ; receives informa- tion of her Majesty's accession, 142; travels into the province of Leon, 160 — 180; describes the hostilities of the Chilians and Peruvians, 196, 203, 206; receives despatches from home, at Panama, 252, and at San Bias 340; surveys the coast at Cape Greville, 284; quits the Co- lumbia River, 311; explores the gulf of Magdalena, 331; stores for his proposed ret urn completed, 341 ; settles the disputes of the king and his subjects at the Marquesas Islands, 354 — 362; re-visits Tahiti, ii. 3 ; sails from MataviaBay, 12 ; visits Raratonga, 15 ; his surveys at Port Reso- lution Navigator's Islands, 47 — 61 ; surveys Araboina, &c., 102, 116; his operations against the Chinese,; 138 ; 142—147, 167, 185; joins Cajitain Herbert's squadron, 149; illness of, 51, 218, 226; is left in charge at Alacao, 229, 232; sails from China for England, 241. Berabatooka, Madagascar, ii 287 Benedict, San, Island, i. 346 Best Island, Clarion group, i. 48 Bingham Island, i. 81 Bird Islands, i. 92 Blanco, Cape, i. 25 ,26 ; ii. 297 Lias, San, i. 40, 44 Bocca Tigris, batteries, &c., ii. 177 Bodega 1'. y, i. 312, 3l6 Bolinas, Ciipe, ii. 138 Bombay Shoal, Palawan Passage, ii. 134 Bonin group of islands, i. 63 Boqueron PassE^.;, Callao, i. 193, 197 Boreton Passage, ii. 120 Bouro Island andCajeli Bay, ii. 104, 119, 120 Bow, or Ocheow Island, (Palliser group,) operations of (Japtain Bel- cher on, i. 363, 365 — 369 ; attempt to bore the coral reef, 370 ; sec- tion of the island, ib. ; cocoa-nut trees planted, ih. ; natural history, 371 ; natives of, 372 ;of their habits and ciinracter, 373 ; their mode of fishing, 376 ; their burials, 377 ; Gardensown,381 ; isletand lagoon, 382; coral reef and tides, 379, 382 ; qualities of the potable water, 383 ; survey and quarterly observations at, 383 ; currents and weather, 382, 384 Braitliwaite's Bay, described, i. 347 Brazil or Nicaragua wood, i. 171, 174, 179, 184 Bread-fruit tree, i. 364, ii. 76 Bremer, Commodore Sir J. Gor- don, in command of our naval ar- mament at Canton, ii. 138, 148 — 170, 220; his departure for Bom- bay, 230 Bridge, Mr., farm of, i. 28 ; sugar establishment of, 30, 160, 165, 176, 229, 237 Britannia, or Six Islands; Port Vic- toria, &c., ii.78; natives of, 79; costume, 80 ; canoes, 81 Bruce, Capt. R.N., of the Imogene, i. 196, 236 Bugis, native of, ii. 124 Bultige, Island of, (supposed,) ii, 95 Burrell, Brig.-Gen., his command ia China, ii. 196 Buzacott, Mr., missionary, ii. 15 ; his residence in Raratonga, ib, 28 Cade, Mr., consul at Panama, i. 221 Ciesalpinia echinata, or Nicaragua wood, i. 171 Cajeli Bay,ii. 104,119; directions of Horsburgh deficient, 104 ; the " Mother and Daughter," conical hills, 105 Cajeput oil, ii. 120 Cald«'ras village, i. 248 Calentura, malady, i. 175, 176 California, ports, coasts, missions, and Indians of, i. 116, 118 — 127, 142; rivers of, 114, 118—124; trees, fruits, flowers, &c. of, 130 ; birds and animals, 129 ; affairs of, 116, 133, 137 ; survey of, 252 ; the Californian government, 316 4G4 INDEX. Callao, fortress of, i. 153; the cn8« ties, 196, 198. '203, 205; Imrboiir, 199; roads, and tlie 15o(]ueron, 193,197; survey at, 197; coast, 199; IJritish men-of-war at, 196, 197; Frenrh ships, 197; Chiliiin squadron under Comm. Postego, 196; attack of Lima by the Chili- ans, 197,203 Cambridge frigate, belonging to the Chinese, blown up, ii. 154, 156 Canadians, the, at Columbia Hi vcr,i. 294 Cannibals, ♦. 359, ii. 45, 55, 59 Cano, Island of, i. 25 Canoe of Raratonga, ii. 19; of the Feejees, 43, 44, 57 ; of New Ireland, 76; burial, N.VV. coast of America, i. 292 Canoes; that termed 6o?ig'o, i. 10; hird of, 11,21 Cantab, Island of, Feejees, ii. 56 Canton, naval and military opera- tions there, ii. 141, 174; listofour men-of-war, 140, 171 ; operations in the river, 141 — 146; treaty be- tween Elliot and Keshen, 147 ; further operations, 149 ; First Bar Fort destroyed, 155 ; masked bat- tery, 157 ; further operations de- tailed, 163, 6lC. 178, &c.; the rearer attack upon the city de- fences, 165 ; llie Sharaeen Fort, ib.; the British colours hoisted nt tlie Factory, 166, 168; terms of truce, 169 ; combined military and naval attack of, 188 — 195; truce and ransom of the city, 196, 214; re::-.arks, 233 ; the river staked, 233 ; state of society at, 235 Canyete, and the port Cerro Aziil, i. 199; valleys of, 200 Cape Good Hope, (New Guinea,) ii. 97 Cape of Good Hope, nautical and magnetic observations at the, ii. 293 et seq. Cap-sing-moon, the, (Canton,) ii. 222 Caraveli, Mount, i. 21 Cardon, Island of, and anchorage, i. 27, 28, 158, 182 Carew, Capt. Il.N., of the Harrier, i, 196,218 Carimata group, the, ii. 129; pass the southern ibland of, ib, Carlos, San, or Conchagua, i. 226, 234, 238, 244 Carriers, porters, and moteros, i. 11, 22 Carteret, Port, New Ireland, ii. 71 —73 Carthagena, in America, i. 7 ; settle- ment of tlie dispute, 9 CasaUa, Island of, «nd pearl fishery, i. 221,222 Castanet, strung with beaks of the alca arctica, i. 103 Castanon Island, i. 28 Casualties and deaths during the ex- pedition, i. 36, 24't,ii. 121 Catalina, Punta Santa, i. 26, 180, 1 85 ; survty of, 324 Catlamet River, and the Columbia territory, i. 298 Cattle ; bullocks, buffaloes, sheep, and hogf, i. 135, 175, 228, 244, 339, 352, 363; ii. 23, 261, 267, 284 Celebes Island, ii. 117 ; natives of, 124 Ceram, Gillolo, Ternate, and Tidore Islands, ii. 1 17; harbours of Ceram, 120; pass the Island of Ceram, 104 Cerro Azul. i. 199 Cerros, Island of, i. 329 Ceylon, Island of; Point de Galle, the Basses, Uondra Head, and a rock, ii. 264 ; the Commandant Major Griffiths, 265, 267 ; town and port of Point de Galle, 266 ; climate and supplies, 267 ; Colom- bo and Candy, 267 Chagres, the author lands at, i. 9, 20 Chalmers, Port, 68 Charlotte Bank, the, ii. 241 Chatfield, Mr., Consul-General, i.31, 34 Chatham Bay, i. 187 ; eastern and western bays, 189, 190 Chenooks and other Indians, i. 303, 307 Chicarene Bay, watering-place, Rea- lejo, i. 226 Chilca Point, i. 201 ; Port, ib. ; val- ley of, 202 Chili ; invasion of Peru by the Chi- lians, i. 196, 203 China, naval operations in, ii. 138— 241 ; a chop which led to a truce- 145 ; treaty with Keshen, 147, 148 ; renewal of the operations, 149, 163 ; truce at Canton, 168 , supposed murders of British otK- cers and subjects, 170, 189 ; sick- INDEX. 4C5 ness among the British, 220; junks of various denominations, 836 — 240 ; fast boat of smugglers, 238 Chinameca, volcano near, i. 229, 230 Chinandega, town of, i. 160, 165, 176 Chinese admiral's junk destroyed, ii. 144 ; conduct of their forces in action, and severe loss sus- tained by them, 146, 152, 194, 215, 217 ; mandarins, 163, 175, 196, 229, 234 ; language, its cha- racter, 213 ; barber surgeon's hand, anecdote, 145 ; ladies, 175; work- men artificers, 226 ; want of faith, 217, 230; misrepresentations and gasconade, 231 Chinhae, fortress of, ii. 232 Chinook Indians ; Choonamis and Sally, 1. 303 Chirique Indians and territory, i. 250 Cholera, i. 167, 172, 176 Chorillas, Bay of, i. 198 Christina, Santa, Island, i. 352 Christians ; of the American mis- sions, i. 119; missionaries of the Sandwich and Society Islands, 54, 57, 263, 266, 273, ii. 13; spread of Christianity, 17, 29 Chronometers, care of, and stations selected for rating them, i. 16, 20, 22, &c., ii. 20, 33, 93, 119, 241, &c. ; observation respecting them, i. 363 Chuenpee, (the outer defence of the Canton river,) squadron off, under Sir J. G. Bremer, ii. 138 ; the island described, 141 ; attack on Lower, 143 ; restored by Capt. Elliot's order, 147 ; survey near, 176 Chusan, Island of, ii. 232 Civilization of the South Sea Is- landers, i. 65. — See Sandwich, Ta- hiti, Tonga, Vavao, and other is- lands. Clara, Santa, mission, i. 117 Clarence Straits, and Stikine River, treaty between Russia and Eng- land, respecting territory, i. 299. — See Appendix Clarion Island and group visited, i. 48, 348 ; its birds and fish, vegeta- tion, &c., 349 Clementine, brigantine, affair of (he, i. 52, 55, 58 Climates, seasons, and weather, allu- sions to, i. 26, 67, 151, ii. 12, 73, 98, 103, 267 VOL. II. Clipperton Rock, position of, i. 255 : Coral Lagoon Island described, 256, 364 Cloud's Island, i. 48 Cocoa Island, New Ireland, ii. 74 Cocoa trees, and cocoa nuts, de- scribed, i. 13, 189, ii. 19,74,248, 271, 284 Cocos-de-mer, the rare, ii. 271 Cocos Island, i. 186, 223, 253 ; gar- den seeds sown at, 191 ; the result, 254 Colima, town of, and trade, products, &c., i. 42 Collinson, Lieut. R. N., i, 20, 36, 93, 155 Colnett, Cape, i. 328 Columbia River, i. 114, 128 ; its sur- vey, 281, 287 Conchaguita, Islands of, i. 234, 243 Conseguiiia, or Quisiguina, volcano of, i. 239 ; observations regarding its eruptions, 240 — 243 Cook, Capt. James, circumnaviga- tion of, i. 107, 272, 282, ii. 3, 14, 58, 64, 68 Cope, Mr., Consul to the Equador, i. 208, 210, 220 Coral, i. 256, 367; Coral Islands, 364, 369 ; coral limestone, 382 Coralline, formations of, i. 364, 378 —381, ii. 12, 24, 99 Corrientes, Cape, i. 41, ii. 291 Costa Rica, state of, i. 248 Cowloon, peninsula of, ii. 147 Coyuca, paps of; Acapuico, i. 143 Crespos, Los, Islands, ii. 83, 88 Cruz, Santa, Island; also Santa Rosa, and San Miguel, i. 321 Culebra, Port of, i. 181, 183 Dampier's Strait visited, ii. 100 ; Point Pigot, 100 ; survey, differ- ing from charts, 101 Oashwood, Lieut., R.N., commands the Starling schooner, i. 20 Dawson, Mr., merchant at Panama, i. 16 Deer, i. 118, 128, 243, ii. 119 Delaware Indians, i. 117, 128, 133 Desolada, Point, i. 26, 180, 185 Devil's Peak, coast of Peru, i. 201 Dews of Peru and Lima, i. 198 Diamond, Cape; Sumatra, ii. 251 Diavolo, Montes, i. 119, 122 Diego, San, port of, kelp bank, &c., i.325 Disappointment, Cajje, i. ,S12 II II 46G INDEX. Dolphin shoal, Tahiti, ii. 3 Domar, Pulo, ii. 241 Douglas, Mr., of the Hudson Day Company at Fort Vancouver, i. 289. 293, 300 Drury's folly, and pagoda, near Canton, ii. 159 Dutch, islands belonging to the, ii. 108, 117 , Folly, the, river of Canton, ii. 166 Earthquakes, i. 147 Easter Island, i. 193 Echo, H. M, steamer, sails from Fal- mouth, i. 4 ; employed as a packet in the W. Indies, 7 Edgecumbe, Cape and Mount, i. 92, 99, 286 Eimeo, Island of, ii. 7, 12 Elias, Mount St., its longitude, i. 67 ; altitude of, 75, 83 ; splendid pro- spect of the peaks from the sea, 78 Elizabeth Island, ii. 78 Elk run£;e, Ilio Sacramento, i. 119 Elk station, for the survey, i. 122 Elks and deer, i. 118, 128, 243 Elliot, Commodore J., R.N., Pleni- potentiary in China, ii. 140, 144, 162, 174, 188, 196, 223, 225, 228, 2.10 ; treaty with Keslien, 147 ; his meeting with that manda- rin described, 148; circular of, 180; truce for the ransom of Can- ton, 196,214 , Lieut. Madras Engineer, his magnetic observatory and survey at Singapore, ii. 131, 243 Ellis, Captain, II. Marines, his ser- vices in China, ii. 142 Equndor, the, i. 22, 208 Equator, cross the, i. 3.51 Erromango, Island of, ii. 69 Erronnn, Island of, ii. 56 Estero de Lagartos, i. 216 Estero Ileal, river, and marshy plain, i. 161,2;>6,238 Estrecho Karkinps, river, i. 118, 133 Etches, Port, i. 68, 69, 73 ; Russian residents, 71 ; fish and oil esta- blishment, 72; fur company, (Rus- sian,') ih.; survey of the i)ort, 73 ; description of the island, ib.; sunken rocks near Cape Hincbin- broke, 74 Fairweather, Mount, i. 82, 83 Fansyack, the Sulphur anchors at, and joins the armament in the Can- ton river, ii. 138 Farallones, the, i. 114 Farquhar's, and the Six Islands, ii. 287 Fatchan battery, ii. 164, 170; chan- nel, 176 ; city of, 176 FateeCreek,Cantonriver,ii. 163,164, 174, 183; anecdote of meeting a mandarin boat with Chinese ladies, 175 Feejee, group of islands, described, ii. 36 ; accident to the Sulphur, 37 ; missionaries, 38,51 ; conduct of commander of the U. S. survey- ing squadron, 38 ; the king, queen, and chiefs, of Rewa, 38, 40, 42, 45, 46, 49, 51, 55; survey of Nukulau harbour, 39; supplies, and regulations established, with interesting anecdotes of the man* ners and proceedings of the natives, 40, et. seq,; town of Rewa, 42; king's house, 43 ; bourri or temple, lb. ; canoes, 43, 44 ; feast, on a roast hog, 44 ; cannibals, 45, 55, 56 ; is- land regulations, or code, 49; im- plements of war, 50 ; costume, 50 — 52 ; religion discussed, 53 ; war with the natives uf Banga, 54 ; the natives tall and warlike, 56 Fever, and ague, i. 125, 302 ; ii. 21 ; account of a peculiar disease at Raratonga, 20 — 23. Fire-ships and fire-rafts of the Chi- nese, ii. 181 Fireworks, rockets, &c., i. 1 10 Fishes, notices of, i. 26, 69, 73, 112, 128, 17.5, 190, 257,302,349; ii. 269, 289, 291 Fishing, modes of, i. 112; ii. 114, 258 ; fishing and salt junks, 237 Fitzrov, Captain, R.N., voyage of, i. 192' Flattery, Cape, i. 304, .306 Flores, General, i. 211—213 Fonseca, Gulf of, i. 161 Forbes, Mr., of Tepic, i. 44, 343 Foster, Mr., vice-consul at Realeio, i. 30, 165. 226 the late Captain, R. N., i. 14 France, her interests in the South Pacific Ocean, i. 66 ; French men- of-war employed in the South Seas, 55, 354; ii. 4, 113; in the Indian Ocean, 131, 135; in China, 148 O INDEX. 407 114, 237 of, i. I. South b men- South in the China, Francisco, Snn, port of, i. 114, ld>3; the revolution, 116, 133, 137 Fraser, Capt. R.^f., in the Nimrod, conveys the author to Cliagrea, i. 9,21 Freshwater Island, i. 43 Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, j, 107 —114 Friendly, and Society Islands, ii. 3 —13 Fruits, of various sorts, i. 74, 113, 120, 130, 302 ; ii. 32, 91 Fucus giganteus, i. 112, 286, 325 Fur company, Imperial Ilusso-Ame- rican, i. 99, 287 Furs and skins, value and descrip- tions of various, i. 72, 94, 100, 120; American hunters, 117 (jallapagos Islands, i. 192 Galle, Point de, Ceylon, ii. 264 Gamarra attacks Callao, i. 203, 206 Gambier's group, i. 273 Garden Island, Port Etches, i. 73 ; shrub fruits, 74 Gatun, nenrChngres, i. 12 Geby, or Ghibi, Island, ii. 102 ; a prau or prahu boat, from, 103 Geese, wild, i. 129, 133 Geological remarks,!. 69, 138. 181, 184,323, 336, 339, 343,371; ii. 31, 82, 241, 245, 288.— S?e Coral. George Island, and Tres Marias, i. 138 Georges, Mr., his gallantry, ii. 216 Giffard, Capt., K.N., H.M. brig Cruizer, ii. 132 Goat Island, ii. l34 Goelvink's Bay, and the Beehive, New Guinea, ii. 96 Goldsmith, Lieutenant, R.N., ii. 183, 185 Goonung Apee, ii. 110 Goram Island, ii. 117 Gorgona, visits to, i. 14, 20 Gorgonia flabellum, or Venus's fan, i. 13 Gough, Major-Gen. Sir Hugh, as- sumes the command of the land- forces in China, ii. 159, 162, 171, 182,188,215,228 Gower's Harbour, ii. 72 Granada, New, blockade of the ports of, i. 7, 8 ; cessation of hostilities between England and, 9, 10 Green Island, storm at, ii. 221 Greville, Cape or Point, and island off it, survey, Kodiack natives, huts, dogs, and scenery, i, 284 Guadalazara, commerce and products of, i. 43 Guadalcanar, Island of, ii. 70 Guadalupe, Island of, i. 137 Guatuico, Port of, i. 155, 156 Guyaquil, town and river of, i. 208, 215, 818, 220; Gen. Wright, go- vernor of, 210; women of, 211; balsas or rafts, 215; houses at, 216 ; farms, 217 Halibut, size of this fish, i. 69 Malkett, Vice-Adm. Sir P., i. 6 Hammond, Cape, i. 75 Hanalae Bay, Island of Atooi, i. 60 ; the consul, 67 ; fresh visit at this port, 280 Hanklip, Cape, ii. 292 Hapae, Island-group, ii. 24 Hawaii, or Owhyee, visited, i. 51 ; the governor Kuakini, 56, 275 ; conjecture as to the origin of the Hawaiians, 305 ; the " Hawaiian Spectator," 304 ; ii. 26 Helena, St., Island of, ii. 294 Helena, St., Cape, i. 181 Herbert, Captain T., K.N., his. dis- tinguished services in Cbina, ii. 142, 149, 150. 154, 156 Herran, General, of Panama, i. S4 Hincbinbrook Island, i. 70; the Cape, and sunken rocks, 74 Hinds, Mr., Assistant-surgeon, i. 44, 211,303,342 llojia, village, i. 33 Holder, Mr. VV., gunner, his death, ii. 121 Home, Sir E., R.N., counsels of, i. 6. Honda, Bay of, survey at, i. 24, 250 Honduras, Estero of, i. 237, 238 Hong merchants, the, ii. 168 Hongkong, cession of the island to the English, by the treaty of Can- ton, ii. 147; its survey by Capt. Belcher, 147, 177 ; Sir J. G. Bre- mer lands and takes possession of, 148, 229 Honolulu, harbour of, and consuls and affairs of the Sandwich Islands, i. 52—60, 259; departure from, 276 Hormigas, the, surveyed, i. 207 Howqua, and his tea-junks, ii. 166— 168 Howqua's Folly, quadrangular fort, Canton river, ii. 157, 153 ; taken, 159,233 Huaheine, Island of, its chiefs and II H 2 4G8 INDKX. \ M iiiitivi>M, ii. ft, 10; ri^ited, 1^^! ; litMiutiful Nrenory of, 1,'J ; niisMiuii- iiriitM lit, i;), ta lIudsoii'M Hay C'oiii|(iiny, the, i. V89, i^'.).') ; llieir eiitiil)lislimnnt iind I'lirin lit Fort Viwicouver, V^.j ; doubtful bu|i|)lit'»to iiien.ol-wiir.'JtXi; riglils of the Coin|mny mid of Kngliind, i.".)H ; thnir vessela, .'JOl ; number of persons employed by the Com- pimv, and the journey to Hudson's Uny, Ml Hunters and furs of America, i. 117, 128, 300; migratory purtiea of, 301 i(H, surprising prismatic formation of, i.76,M Ice, observations on the motion of, i. HI Icy IJav, description of, i. 79. Idols, i'. 171 iguanas, mode of capturing, i. 14 ; t'leir egps eaten, 1,) Jndiaiis near lieeriiio;:y, ls>7; Cbiri- ques, 2J0; Chonooks, 30,S; neigh- bouring tribes of the Columbia, ;i(»7 ; the Flatheads, 311 Insu, island of, ii. 86 Irving, Mr. Washington, " Rocky Mountains" of, i. 5^89, 303 Isabel Island, i. 44 Isalco, volcano, i. 158 Islands, some probably marked on charts, but unnamed, i. ii6, 180, 318 ; ii. 36, 68, 82, 93 , floating, described, ii. 89 Jamaica, island of, i. 7 Japanese junk, wrecked near Queen Charlotte's island, i. 303 ; another wrecked on Uuhu,404 Jobie, island of, (supposed,) ii. 89; canoes, costume, &c., 90 — 93, 94 ; anchorage, 9'2 ; natural his- tory of, and vegetation, 89, 94 Jose, San, mission, i. 117, 133 Juan, San, port of, i. 179, 181, 3'.'4 ; mission, Mi; the name Juauitas, ib. Junks, fast, war, tea, mdt, and trad- ing, described, ii. '^.'itJ — '^10 Kamtschalka, i. l'i'2 Kave's Island, i. 70,77; Point Le Mesurier. 77 Kavser, Hayu, and Co., Messrs., i. 341 Kellett, Lieutenant II., apjioiiited to the Starlin; IntitiidHniiU longitude 166 ; jirodurfs of tliis gtiilo, 16H I'lbnrtHd, nncliorii|^e off, i. 'M ; serious ii(ciil«nr8 to tliH Siilpliur'H uijjs, .'<6, 38 ; tlie uliivti, port, iind vil- luge dHsrribod. 3H, .')<), l.")(t Lihooka, Feejpolsiiinds, ii .'J'.> Limn, cityot, i. 197, et ieif.; dews, 198 ; viewod from tlie summit of Snn tliristovHl, 197; cont»!Sf with tlie Chilian limd iind hi'h forces nnrratod. i. 19G ; et mj. '218 ; full of,20'J; l)r»ftlf,S!()i, W6 Lin, governor of the province of Ciin- ton.ii. 167 Lintin, bloclimie of.ii. 148 Lithopliytes, of, i.37t ; ii. 1'2 Log, luitent, and rotiitor, i, .iO Long Jgjnnd, (of Macliiie.) ii. 96 l^orenzo, Siui, nimpiirts of, i. 21 ; near Crtlliio, 196; island, 198 Los Crespos islands, ii. 8^, 08 ; canoes and traJfic, Sit Low Island, ii. 13,'} Lucas, St., Cai)e, i. 44, i;}7, 3:14, .338 ; ancliorase and vilhifje, .'j38, 340; liills and plains, ;>.'VJ ; vege- tation, ill.; Siin, Island, i. '248 Luis, St., mission, i. 117 Macao, the Sulphur arrives near, ii. 1^">8; visit toSir.T.G. Hremer at, 149, 170; the fort passage, 16'2, 174 attack of Macao, 16.S ; the fac- tory, 166, 168, 2'29 ; observationa at, 241 Macquilla or Maquinna, chief at Nootka Sound, i. 108; his charac- ter and family, 113, 111, 112 Madagascar frigate, the, i. 8; Hon, East India Company's steamer, wrecked near Namo, when Cap- tains Grattan and Dicey, with the crew fell into the hands of the Chinese, ii. '234 ; island of, 287 Magdalena, Bitv, surveyed by Ciipt. JJu Petit Tiiouars, i. 142 ; ihe gulf or bay, islands, &c., 329 ; St. Lazarus, Alagdulena and Margarita islands or rangosj 331—336 ; sur- vey, ifo.; ex]>loring of this large gulf, 331 — 336 ; geology and na- tural history of, 332—338' Magnetic observations in various parts of the world, recorded, i. 25, 27, 83, 198. 23.'), 249, 340, 371 ; ii.39, 78, 293 ; declinotion, i. 40 Magnetic inland, near Pueblo Nucvn river, i.2.'j Mah^', Secholles isliinds,!!. 'j72,28"> Maitland, ('a]itain, II. N., of the Wel- leslev, on service in China, &C., li. 140, 1.i3, 1'20 Majambo Hay, ii. 287 Miiia, Point, course by, i. 2'21 Mahiccn, touch at, ii. 246 Miilnys, ii. Itti Mnlcolm, Miijor, his services in China, ii. 229, '230 Middiivia Atnll, the great, ii. 208 Alalh olo. Isliind of, ii.15,59, 69 Aliuii cua, luke of, i. 161, 16.'), 173, 23.> its ishiTid of Momoiombita, 16.1, 171; Pifldni Gorda, 169; town of, 171, 172; marriages, 172 Mangrove woods, and islands, &c. i. 89 Manjurrn Island, i. 213 Manilla, port and town of, ii. 1.34 Manzanilla, port of, i.41,42 Margarita Island, Gulf of Magdalena, 331,334, .3.3.T Marque.sas, Islands, (See Appondix) i..3.51, etseq.; li. 2i»8 Maitiares village, i. 170, 17.') Maui Island, i.-M— 66, 2.)9 Maiiki, island of, ii. 14 Mazatlan. port of, i. 41, 142, 340 Matoke Island, ii. 36 .Midlebiirg Island, ii. 97, 100 Middhtton Island, i.()8 MiuMiel, San, fair of, i. 226, 228, '231 ; City of, 228, '231 Moa, island of, ii. 8() .Molokoi Island, i. 51. Moluccas Islands, ii. 104 Momotombo mountain and island, i. 165, 171, 182 Montague Island, i. 70 Monterey, harbour of, i. 1.35, .318 Morro Ayuca, bav, i. 156 Morro Solar, i. 198, '202 iMulgrave port, i. t)8,79— 88 Murciellagos, or Bat Islands, i. 1.31, 182 Napiei'sfort.ii. 1.57,158,161 Mativididad, island \.:, i. 329 JSiavai.te, i.342 Navig.i.tors' Islands, ii. 57 -63 Needle, the, observations respecting, i.27 Neishang, attack by the Nemesis steamer at,ii. 18,3, 134 Nemesis, Hon. F.ast India Company's f 470 INDEX. ■tPiimer, engnged in the nnvol ope- lationa at Canton, ii. 14'J, 15(1, lAi. lAT, 161, 181, IH.'l Ne«v Giiinen, vixitpd, ii. 78 ; reefs, 78 ; nnturni iiistory of, 8:); depar* ture from tliti isiliinda neur, *)6 New iiebridcB, ii. .')(» New Irolnnd, viHited, ii. 71, 75; tlio liooby |iHgsiige, 71 ; Port Carteret, i7»., 73; CapeSt. Cieorge, mid survey of coast, 72, 75 ; Kng- lisl) Cove and Gower's hiirbour, it-; natives, 73, 75; Port Sul- phur recommended as an anchor- age, 73; Turtle Hay, 74; Cocoa Island, ih. ; Duke of York's Is- land, 75 ; canoes, 76 ; bills, 77 Nevadas, Sierras, i. 1'<;'2 Nicaragua, state and lake of, i. 169, 170, — See Appendix Nicholson, Midtihipnian, i. 44 Nicoya, Gulf of, i. as, 248 Nieto, Oenerul, i. S()3, 204, 207 Niger Expedition ; the Albert, Cap- tain Fishbourne, at Ascension, ii. Ninirod, the. Captain Fraser, i. 9, 21 Ningpo, city of, ii. 232 Noessaniva Point, ii. 108 Nootka Sound, i, 86; Woody Point and Friendly Cove, 107; Indians of, 108—113 ; fruits, 113 ; old set- tlement deserted, ih. Norfolk Sound, i. 86,89, 92—107 Nubliida Island, i. 48 Nuhahivah, island of, 352,363 Nukulau harbour, Ambou Island, ii. 36 ; island of, 37 ; survey, 39, 47, 48 ; the anchorage safe, 48 Oahu Island, and breakers oft' it, i. 52, 304 ; consuls of Britain and Morth America at, 52, 57; mis- sionaries, 53 — 6i ; progress of civilization, population, trade, &c., 61 — 63 ; island revisited, re- ception. Diamond Hill, &c., 259; influence of missionaries, 263, et seq. ; cultivation opposed, 265 ; compulsory labour, 266 ; church missionaries to be desired, 266, 273 ; port charges, 268 ; orphan school, 270 ; population, produc- tions, and exports, 272, 276 Organic remains, i. 332 Ororute, island ; of the charts, ii. 14 Otaheite, island of, see Tahiti Otogues, the, i. 221 Otters, Hea, and their skins, i. 72, lUl , limd,i. 129 Owhyheu Island, i. 51 ; i«« Ilawoii. Pablo, Snn, river of, i. 122 Pachacamiic Islands, i, 202 i'acilic, survey of its slinres undpr* taken, i, 3 ; meridian dislance be* tween the Atlantic and, 16; the north-west swell, AM Padres, the, or missionaries, i. 22, 117,326 Pagodiu, Chinese, il. 159; the flve- story pugoda, Canton, 192 Palawan Passage, the, ii. I.i2, l.'>4 ; shonls, l.'i4 Palliser Islands, described, i. .364 Pulm, fermented juice of the, i. 161 Pidmerston, Viscount, i, 197 Palo Matea, near Ciorgona, i. 14 Pun d'Azucar Island, (fiugar-baf,) i. 248 Panama, government of, i. 10; isth- mus of, il). ; conveyances lo, 1 1 ; honesty of the people, ih. ; arrival at, 16, 21, 221; sail from, 252; gulf of, 221 Pnpagayo, gulf of, i. 170, 179 Papagayos, strong breezes so named, i. 26, 169, 18.'> Papeete Bay, and j)iiot ; Tahiti, ii. 4 ; the new channel, 12 Parker, Kear-Adm., K.C.B., arrives in China in the Sesostris steamer, ii. 228 Passo Cavallos, near Carthngena, explored, i. 8 Paul, harbour of St.,i. 282, 285 Payta, town and port of, i. 207 Pearl fishery, described,!. iZi, 222 ; Pearl Islands, 252 Peat soil, i. 129; a peat island, ii. 89 Pedro, San, bay of, i. 322 Pelecanus aquilus, or frigate-pelican, i. 49, 189 Pell, Commodore O., i. 7 Peltry, trade in, i. 72, 94, 100, 120 Peru, contest with Chili, i. 196, et seq. 202 ; British relations with, 197 Peyton, Commodore Sir J., i. 7 ; blockades Carthagena, 8 Phaeton setherius, or tropic bird, i. 49 Phipps, Cape, i. 82 INDEX. 471 ., i. 7 ; bird, i. Piedra Uranon, or white rock, ii, V3i Pigeon Uland, Uurnpier's Strait, ii. lOl Piflfot, Cnpe, IxInndH of Danipier'si Strait, iieiir, ii. lUU Pinnng, governor of, ii. 243, 248 ; the Sulphur Buil!) to, V48 ; town deacnbed, 248; temperature, en- virons, &c.,l?4!>, S.'X) Polynenian UlundH, civilisation and interestH ot the, i. !i!7;i Poniare, (jueen of Tahiti or Otaheite, ii. T), et i«q. ; her residence of Pnpawa, 5 I her husband, (i; lier character und personal appearance, 11 Population of Spnni.^h America, and of the present Free States, i. '23 ; of the Sandwich Islands, UTi Port Hoyul, Jamaica, i, 7 Pottinger, Sir Henry, Uart., Pleni- potentiary to China, his arrival, ii. Pouce and mountains in Norfolk Sound, i. 92, K'J Pon-ki!>-tui, ur the Hill Fort, Canton, ii. 192 Praliu, or prau,ii canoe of remark- able build, ii. 103 Predpriatie Island of Kotzebue, i. 363 Providence Island, and dangerous reef, ii. 286 Pueblo Nuevo, river from, i. 25, 249 ; villnge of, 168, 176; productions, 249, 250 Pulo Bouro, ii. 251 Puna Island, and Punta Espanola, i. 208 Punta Arenas, i. 248 Punta de los Reyes, i. 317 Purdy's Island, ii. 78 Queen Charlotte's Island, i. 304 Quentin, Port San, survey, i. 328 Rf^catonga Island and missionaries, ii. 14, 15—23 Realejo, port of. i. 25, 27, 177, 226 Recifl'e, Cape, ii. 291 Refuge, Port, anchorage of, ii. 24, et seq. Resolution, Port, ii. 57 Reynes» Puenta de los, i. 114 Rimac, river, i. 198 Riou, Point, and Island, not to be found near Icy Cape, i. 78 — 81 niou's Island, or Uooheoah, i.3.M Rocket operations, in surveying, i. 16, 17.21, 2,1 Roman Rocks, ii. 202 Rush Island, i. 68 Ross, Reur-Adni,, in the President, i. 197 Russell, Lord F.dward, his treaty with the Sandwich islanders, i. 59, 60 Russell, Mr., and the affairs of New Ciranada, i. 9 Russia, ships of, in the Pacific Ocean, i.67 ; Russian colonists ut Sitka, &c., 71, 83, 93—106, 299 Sable furs, i. 72 Sacrameno, Rio, survey of, i. 118 Sacriticios, the, i. 155 Sago-tree, the, ii, 118 Saliiniis, (julf, and Island of, i. 180, 182, 184 Salayer Island and Strait, ii. 121 Suit Junk Creek, the, Canton, ii. 157 Salvador, Snn, road fo, i. 31—33 Samborodon, town of, i. 218 Sampancliow, river of Canton, ii. 150, 163 Sandwich Island, ii. 70 Sandwich Islands, i. 48 Santiago, river, i. 249. — See Pueblo Nueva. Sea, milkiness of the, i. 364 Sea-otter, the, i. 72, 101 Seasons : beat, i. 151 ; ii. 215 ; fine, 268; the rainy, i. 124, 151, 223, 226 ; ii. 73, 94, 98, 177 ; the bad, i. 26; &c., &c. ; " the Full and Change," remark, ii. 103 Sebastian, Cape, ii. 287 SOchelles Islands described, ii. 270. Port Victoria, or Mab6, Sulphur village, cocoa-nuts, survey, &c., 270—272 ; old French residents, 273 ; account of the islands, 274 ; monsoons, 277 ; currents, 277 ; history of the cession to the British, 279; the capitulation, 280. Senhouse, Captain Sir Le Fleming, R. N., li. 153, 170, 177, 186, 188, 196, 2i4: his death lamented, 219: Funeral, 220. Sepoys, and Bengal volunteers, ii. 152, 153,1 .< Sharks, i. 60, .39, 257 ; ii. 289 Shells, and conchology, i. 139,332, et seq., 338, ,'382; ii. 31, 75, 8s!, 472 INDEX. 95,119, 291; tortoise-shell, 77; R nondescript-slmll, 89 Shelvoeke's, Shelvoes, or Shovel Island, i. 137 Sboals, reels, banks, and rocks ; no- tices of certain, (near Cape Blan- co,) i. 26 ; near Port Mulgravp, 88 ; false semblance of reefs and of rollers, explained, 351 ; cornl reefs, 379, 382 ; Tahiti, ii. 3, 4 ; Lagoon reef, Raratonga, 24 ; tlie Pratas reef, 138; the Romania shoal, 242 ; Ro' al Captain shoal, 133; Hombayihoal. 134; Bale of Cotton Rock, Ceylon, 264; dangerous reefs near Providence Island. 286 ; at the Fetjees, 37; New Guinea, 78, 95 Silkworm, miilherry-trees planted in the Sandwich Islands for ihe, 276, 28 i Simon's Bay, ii. 294 Simpkinson, ?Iid3hipman, i. 44 Singapore, (he Sulphur reaches, ii. 129, 242 ; improvements of the town, 131 ; vessels in the roads, 131, 242—244; bread or biscuit baked by Chinese at, 244 ; Cli- mate, 245 ; Geology, ib.; produc- tions, ib. ; hotels, 246 ; water, ib. ; survey, 131 ; commerce of Eng- land, China, &c., at, 131 Sitki, the channel and fort of, i. 93 — 9C ; Mr. Alexander, secretary, comes on board the Sulphur, ib. ; the governor. Captain KoupreanofF, ib. 105 ; natives of, 94, 100, 303 ; Russian fur establishment, 93 — 95, 106; trade, 95— 101, 287; go- vernrac.it-house, 96 ; arsenal, ib. ; small-pox, 98 ; church, ib. ; sur- vey, 99 ; native chief, 102 ; cus- toms, 103 ; Castanet, ib. ; tomb, 104 ; Russian lady, 105 ; the Sulphur returns to, 285 — 287; treaty, 299; Baron Wrangel, 299 Small-pox, i&'Cges of the, i. 128, 293 Snakes, water, (Columbia River,) i. 291 ; sea-snakes, ii. 89 Snow, mountains covered with, i. 79 Society Islands, the, ii. 3—13 Socorro group of islands, i. 48 ; sur- vey of, 346 ; botany, 347 Sonsonate, volcanos near, i. 158 Souvh-sea Islands, a treaty between England and the king of the Sand- wich group, i. 60, 64, 66 ; due respect to the British flag eaforced, 58, 60 ; Encjiish, raid other set- tlers, 54, 63 ; need of the intro- duction of clergymen, 65; schools for native children, taught the Eng- lish language, and the useful arts, 6.1 ; re-visit to, 268 ; affair of the Marquesas, and the missiduaries of that group, 351 — 361 Spain, the expulsion of the Spaniards entails commercial ruin on the once flourishing ports of the Pa- cific, i. 146 ; see .' merica Spjcic, Mr. Colin, mate, i. 38 ; lost at sea, 244 ; in charge of the Cle- mentine brigautine, 55 ; and of the Victoria, 180 Starling schooner, i 3, 4, 82, 143, 281, 302, 312, 349; ii. 39, 72, 222 ; struck by lightning, 133 ; ordered to join the Sulphur at Macao, 138; her arrival, 140; in action at the Canton Riv»'r, batteries, &c., 146; remains on service in China, 241 Steam navigation, its results for dis- tant civilization, i. 23, 238, 287 Steam vessels, the expenditure of coal should be regulated by the distance to be performed before obtai:iing a supply, i. 5 Storms at sea, ii. l.S.?. 285, 289; Typhoon, 220, 223 ; et passim ; the two plenipotentiaries in ex- treme peril, 222—225; tornados experienced, 297 ; on land, i. 3,3 Strachan. Mr., of Manilla, ii. 135 Stuers, Colonel and Madame de, Amboina, ii. 108 — 116 Sturge, Mr., i. 6 Suckling, Cape, i. river near, 75, pyramids of ice piles of driftwood, and timber, 77 ; northerly current, 77 ; westerly currents, 78 Sugar plnntatiois and manufacture, i. 30, 43, 160 Sulphur, H. M. ship, in company with the Starling schooner, sails on an expedition for the survey of the coasts of the Pacific Ocean, i. 3 ; at the Island of Taboga, near Panama, 17 ; Captain Belcher as- sumes the command, 20, ii. 236 ; loss of her rudder at the Feejees, 37 ; arrives at Fansyack, 138 ; operations of the, 146, 154, 162, 70 77; near, supposed remM.rkable 76 ; large INDEX. 473 de, sterly ipany sails irvey cean, near ?r 88- 286; ejees, 138; 162, 186, 188, ^'IS ; bis instructions to sail for England; increased pay allowed lier crew, 299 Sulphur sprin<;, i. 174 Sumatra, Island of, ii. 251 Survey, the ; operations connected therewith^ near Panama, i. 21, 22; iniio;netic island, 25; Ilealejo, 30, 2.')6 ; Port Etches, 53 ; Mounts St. Elias and Fairweatlier, 83 ; Sitka and Mount Edgecuinbe, 92, 105; Friendly Cove, Noot- ka Sound, 114 ; llio Sacramen- to, 118; tricterized, 63, 64, 65 ; he its present at the funeral of the female chief Kinau, 260—262 ; the royal race enumerated, 263 ; the good disposition of the king, 269 ; account of king Kauikeouli, and the present royal family, 274, 276, 281 Tanna, island of, ii. 5j, 57, 69 Tasbeis, Nootka Sound, i. Ill, 113 Tchiniat, gulf of. i. 282 leas, at Canton, ii. 168, 169. Tea- junks, or bouts, 239 Tebuantepec, ^ulf of, i. 40, 156 Telica range, i. 161 Ticks or garrapatas, of the woods of Panama, i. 16, 177 Tiger Island, i. 243 klands, ii. 121 Island, CiiutDu River, ii. 154, 176 Toanoa Channel ; Tahiti, ii. 4 Token Bessy, island group of, i. 120 Tonga Islands, the, ii. 15, 24 Toobooai, coral of, i. 369 Tres Marias, Is'ands, i. 137, 138 Truce Hill, of Canton, ii. 214 Tsingpoo, temple of, (Canton,) ii. 188 Turner, Cape, i. 82 Tycocktow battery, River of Canton, ii. 141 Ul'oa, castle of, i. 1 53 Ulloa's voyage, i. 23 Urville's,D.',Fre.ich Captain, voyage, i. 354 ; ii. 113 Vallejo, Sif.uor Chico, i. 161, 165 Vavao, Island of, ii. 20, 24—33 Velas, Cape, i. 185 Velthoen's Island, ii. 120 Victoria Channel, or the New Chan- nel, river of Canton, ii. 182 Point, in the R. Sacra- mento, i. 121, V^ti Viradores. the, i. 183 Virgins, Bay of the, i.329 Wallamette River, American settlers on tlie, i. 297, 301 Wanchow, Island of, ii. 222 Wangiong, operations at, li. 144 — 146 Waygiou Island, Dampier's Strait, ii. 100 West Bay, near rhailium or Eastern Bay, i. 189, 190 474 INDEX. Wlianipoa Reach, ii. 157, 163, 233 Winijlmtn Island, i.61,75, 77 Wood, Lieutenant, R.N., i. 347 Yamna Island, ii.94, 97 Yang, the Chinese general, ii. V!47 Yerba Buena Bay, i. 114, 122, 133, 318 Yylns del Key, i. 221, 223, 252 THE END. LONDON: PniNTED BY O. J. PALMER, SAVOY bXnEET, STRANU. ii. 247 122, 133, ,252