IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 IA£12.8 ■so ^^ I» ^^ I.I z m 1.25 r^ I ■nil! 2.2 2.0 1.6 72 /: o^ "^ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation n WiST MAIN STREET WBBSTEft.N.Y. 14S» (716) S72.4S03 |\ •\S '^ ■^' 1" . . ♦ • > ► •' ♦ t:J •=*rtM»,si^^ ^.f;^*t,*fei* Vy-* "^"^*:^^^fi^0S''*%-M *■ !(>■' *•■'■ / » -r- ■4m> un\". 4*. • r^TT\-''r\ \ \TPTTT\V\ \ \=Yt^ "^^: -JT^' ^ v^ ( J Et— > / 65 NARRATIVE Cf THE ARCTIC LAND EXrEDITION IroTHH MOUTH OF THE CHEAT FISH RIVER, * AKD ALONa THE iJlIOUES OF 'THE ARCTIC OCEAN. (N THE YEARS 1833, 1831, and 183S. tOMMANDEU OF THE EXPEDITION, ILLUSTRATED BY A MAP, nilLJlDELPHlJlt I: h CAREY & A. HART. 1836. *iB.-u.- ■• 9 E. tJ. DOKSEV, PltlNTBRj 12 Library Street, ^ d to TUG ItlCillT HONOURABLE TUB EAni. or RiroN, My Lord, * Your Lordship was Secretary of State for the Colonies when tiic Expedition, of which the follow in«ij IS the Narrative, was organized; and to your good offices, and liheral suhscription in its favour, the suc- cess of the project was at that time mainly due. 1 havo Ventured, in consequence, to dedicate to you the volume; and am most happy in being thus ena- Wed to express some part of the sincere respect with tvhich 1 have the honour to be, My Lord, Your Lordship's most obedient >, and very humble servant, George Back. p^ 90»xsnn. |^LIHIKAll|^APTl% • page 9 CHAPTER % J^parturc from Eii|r|an(l. — \rrival at Montreal. — Proparatioiis for tht! Expedition. — Firt; at tin lotcl — Departure from La Clii'ie. — Tht^ St. Lawrence. — The Ottawa.-^ -Lake Huron. — Tlie SaulldeSle. Marie. — Arrival at Fort William. — Distribution of the Iioadim^rs. — The Moun- tain Fall.— Lac do la I'luie. — Arrival at Kort Ah'xauder. — Ma^rm;t,ic ()i)servations. — Arrival of Governor Simpson, and Arranijements made l)y him. — Arrival at Norway House. — Dillicully of procurinjf men for the Service— .Departure from Nor\vay House, • • 2!) • CHAPTER n. Commencement of the Expedition. — Interview with Mr. ('harles. — Wind- hound by a Land Gale. — A Receipt for the Cure of "Uhu; Devils." — Description of a Voyageur's Tent. — A Land Stonn. — ^The (irand Rapid. •fciAdvancc of Cultivation. — Arrival at Cumberland House. — Departure of the Bateaux under Mr. Kinnf. — Embark in a Canoe. — Workinjr of the Boats in the Rapids. — Isle a la Crosse. — Buffalo Lake. — A Squall. —A Skunk. — Portage la Loche. — Effect of the Scenery. — Interview with Mr. Stewart and Mr. A. M'Leod. — ^Thc; latter volunteers to ac- company the Expedition. — Arrive at Fort Chipewyan. — Information as to the supposed Route by the Fond dn Lac. — .Journey resumed. — Salt River. — .Sketch of a Party of Indians. — Description of the Salt Springs. — Indian Encampment. — Information of the Natives as to the Rivers Thlew-ee-choh and Teh-Ion. — Arrival at Fort Resolution, - 52 « CHAPTER in. Inquiries and Embarrassments about the Route. — Preparations for Depar- ture.—Embark in search of the Thlew-ee-choh. — Indian Encampment *» m "., i Vi CONTENTS, aiirt. — Succc^ssion of Streams and Lakes. — li lian Account of the The-lew or 'I'eh-lon. — Clinton-C'olden, Aylmcr, and Sussex Lakes. — Discovery of the Thlew-ee-choh, - - 9\J CHAPTER V. Digression concerning Hearne's Route, 115 h. , I li CHAPTER VI, Continue our Progress. — Rocks on the Tlilew-ee-choh. — Island of singular Appearance. — .Slusk-Ox Lake. — Conjectures on the Course of the Tlilew-ee-choh. — ley River. — Appearance of two Indians. — Maufelly permitted to visit his Wife;. — Consununate Skill of Do Charloit. — . Dwarf Pines. — Story of the Pat and tlie Beaver. — Unlitness of the Trees for Planks. — Artillery Lake. — Force of the Rapids. — Accident in our Passage. — L(>avc the Ah-hel-dessy. — A Bear Killed. — Ridiculous vStory. — March Resumed. — Desolate Scenery. — A Deer shot. — ^Tor- mented hy Sand-flies. — Anecdote of Sir John Franklin. — Meeting with Mr. M'Leod, by an unexpected Route, • » . 121 CHAPTER VII. *'Le grand jeune Homme." — Trade with the Indians. — Sunday. — Mr. King anives, with two Bateaux. — Performed a Surgical Operation.-— Dis'.'oro j'orts of an Indian Canoe. — Conduct of the Party.— Erection of new I)vv(^lling. — Arrival of Indians. — Their Policy. — Aged Indian Wo- rn'm' iarving Visiters. — Case of Revenge for Inhospitality. — ^Ti\e T'lle^', ■ 1 iioh d(>s.Til)ed. — Oliservatoiy. — Strange Appearance of the -I'n!'-iiig in of the Indians, — Superstitious Fancies. — Shortness -Domiciled in the new Building, named Fort Reliance. — Sup- '■^.■': t'lil, — Akaitcho. — Discharge of De Charloit and Two Iro- n.\v \ >il»ir, of La Charite. — (iloom of the Indians. — Story of a young Miji.ter. — lircach of Indian Law. — Death of the old Woman. — (Uirist- mas-day. — Short Allowance. — Experiments. — Ex(U'Ssiv(; Cold. — Arri- val of Mr. M'Lcod. — Barbarous Atrocity. — Revolting Story of an In- dian, -,,,.., ijj 'Uir.-.. :•. . of I'ond,- 115 ''tP CONTENTS, CHAPTER VIII, Vll Exemplary Conduct of Akaitclio. — Mr. INI'Lcoc' and his Family leave us. — Arrival of Maufelly. — Supply of Doir-flesh. — Misunderstanding be- tween Akaitclio and the Interpreter. — Preparation for huildinfj Two Boats. — Mr. M'Lcod's ill Success. — Stranij,'e Conduct of Two Indians. — Su])])ly of Food. — Distressing Condition of Mr. INI'Leod. — Return of Mr. Kintr's Party. — News from York Factory, — Uncertain Fate of Au- {justus. — Presence of IVo Ravens. — Ravens shot hy an Iro(|uois. — News from lOngland. — Dischartje of Three Men. — Alteration of Plans. —Appearance of Birds. — Adventures hy Mr. Kinfj. — Arrival of Mr. M'Leod. — Anxiety about Williamson. — Sultry Weather. — Melancholy Fate of Augustus, ..... 179 CHAPTER IX. Reflections — Malt for the Niglit >Iurrii resumed. — Obstacles encoiia- tenid. — The Boats finished. — Eastern Shore of Artillery Lake. — Pursue tlie Track of Mr. M'Leod.— Two Deer Shot Stunted Pines — En- campment.— Difllcnlty in tracing our Route. — News from Mr. M'Leod. — A Snow Storm. — Fires Lighted on the Hills. — Accident to Peter Taylor. — Deviate from our (bourse. — Accident to .Tames Spence. — Bois- terous Weather. — Plunder of a Cache. — Find the runaway (luides. — The Ice Unsafe. — Enter upon Lake Aylmer. — A dense Fog. — Sand- hill Bay. — Judicial Investigation. — Animals. — Musk-ox Rapid. — Join Mr. M'Leod. — Survey of the River. — Indians return with the Pemmi- can. — Stock of Provisions An Indian Belle. — A Reindeer Hunt, I'JK CHAPTER X. Instructions to Mr. M'Leod upon our Se])aratioii. — Meet with Akaiteho. His Lodge. — Imminent Danger to tin; Boat^ — Akaitcho's friendly Cau- tion.— Embarkation..^Heavy Storms.— Our (Jrew. — Geological Fea- tures of the Country. — Obstructions from the Ice. — Perils from a Series of Rapids. — Plunder of a Bag of Pemmican. — Obstacles on our Pass- ago. — Boisterous Weather. — Deer Hunting. — Observations. — Deviation of the River. — Desolate Scenery. — Detained by the lee. — Cascades. — Land-Marks. — Contraction of the River. — Baillie's River. — Flocks of Geese. — Tact Recjuisite in Command. — Precipitous Rocks. — A Fox.— • Esquimaux Marks. — Bullen River. — A Storm. — Lake Pelly. — (Conjec- tures of an Indian. — Encampment. — View of the Country. — Further Obstructions. — Observations. — Lake (Jarry. - - '236 CHAPTER XI. Gigantic Boulders, — Danger from the Rapids. — Course of the River. — Lake Macdouga'l. — Hazardous Passage. — Sinclair's Fa' is. — Northerly Bend of the River. — Mount Meadowliank. — Altitude of the l{ocks. — The Trap Formation. — M'Kay's Peak. — Lake Franklin. — ICxtricatioii from Peril. — Sluggishness of the (Jompass. — Escpiiiiiaiix. — Portrait of a Female. — Victoria Headland — Mouth of the Thlew-ee-clioh. — Cock- I i vm CONTENTS. I)urn Bay. — Point Backlionse. — Irhy and Mangles' Bay. — Point Beau- fort.— Our Proirross Arrested. — Montnsal Island. — A Musk Ox killed. — Birds on the Island. — KlliolBay. — M'Kay, etc. sent along the Coast. Ks(iuiinaux Encampment. — Cape Hay. — Point Ogle. — Progress Ob- structed by the Ice. — A Piece of Drift Wood found. — Ross Island.— » Discoveries by Mr. King. — Magnetic Observations. — Point Richardson. ^Point Hardy.— Conjectures as to a N. W. Passage and Channel to Regent's Inlet, 2C7 1 ( , i CHAPTER XII. Exhilarating Influence of a Hunting Excursion. — Removal of the Esqui- maux.— Leave them a Bag of Pemmicau. — Accident to the Boat. — In- undation of the Country. — Discovery of Escjuimaux. — Wise Man of the Tribe. — Critical Position in the Rapids. — A Storm. — Adventure of a Lemming. — I'hicauip at Musk Ox Rajjid. — Meeting with Mr. M'Ii(>od. — Kate of Williamson. — ^The Yellow Knives. — Encamp on Artillery Lake.— Reach the Ali-lu'1-dessy. — Depart for Montreal. — ^Tlie Sauteatix Indians. — Success of a Missionary at Sault Ste. Marie. — Return to Eng- land.— Conclusion, . . - , , 321 APPENDIX. No. I.-*-Zoological Remarks, by Dr. John Richardson, - 353 II. — List of Plants collecU^d by Mr. Richard King, during the Pro- gress of the Expedition, ... 385 III. — Articulafa. Catalogue of Arachnida and Insects collected by Mr. King, ..... 392 IV. — Geological Notice of the New Country passed over in Cap- tain Back's Expedition, by Dr. W. K. Fitton, - 399 V. — Meteorological Table, arranged from the Registers kept at Fort Reliance, by Captain Back and Mr. King, - 412 VI. — ^Table of the Temperature of Animals, Birds, Fish, Trees, and Earth, at ditfereut times and places, arranged by Mr. King, 426 VII. — On tiu! Aurora Borealis, ... 428 VIH. — Magnetical Observations, . - . • 453 IX. — Tal)l(! of Latitudes, Tiongitudes, and Variations, - 454 X. — Letter from W. Smith, Esq. Secretary to the Hudson's Bay Company, to Angus Bethune, Esq., Chief Factor at Sault St. Mary's, - .... 455 i —Point Beau- isk Ox killed. oiig the Coast. Projrrcss Ob- oss Island , itlfichardson. id Channel to 2G7 >f the Esqui- le Boat In- oMan of the vonturc! of a VIr. M'I,('od. on Artillery ho Sauteaiix ;turntoEnir- 321 • ■^f* <* •«.-« NARRATIVE \ OF A JOURNEY TO THE 353 the Pro- 385 3ctcd by 392 in Cap- 399 kept at 412 !es, and . King, 426 428 453 454 's Bay t Sault 455 i SHORES OF THE ARCTIC SEA. PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. Early in the year 1832 the protracted absence of Captain (now Sir John) Ross, who had sailed in 1829 to the Polar regions, and had not afterwards been heard of, became the subject of general and anxious conversation. A report even reached Italy, where I happened to be, that he and his ad- venturous companions had perished; but, having ascertained that there was no other ground for this rumour than the un- certainty of their fate, I shortly afterwards hastened to Eng- land, with the intention of offering to Government my ser- vices to conduct an expedition in search of them. 2 1 !: i i ; p i! -i it ii 10 PRBLIMINAtr CHAPTER. On my arrival, in June 1832, I was informed that my friend and former companio), Doctor Richardson, had already made an application to the same effect; but that his ofifer, for various reasons, not havirg been accepted, he had, in conse- quence, as I was given t# understand, relinquished the idea. I was further informed, however, by Mr. Beverly, who had been the companion of Sir E. Parry in his perilous journey over the ice from Spi'zbergen towards the Pole, that Mr. Ross (brother of Sir John, and father of Captain James Ross) was anxious to find an officer properly qualified to undertake the conduct of a party through America, on the plan pro- posed by Doctor Richardson ; which, not having been adopt- ed by the Government, had been presented for consideration to other quarters. ^ • I proceeded, iherefore, without loss of time, to Mr. Ross, who read to me a petition which he was about to send to the King, praying his Majesty's gracious sanction to the imme- diate despatch of an expedition for rescuing, or at least as- certaining the fate of, his son and brother; and my name being forthwith inserted as the proposed leader of the expe- dition, this petition was forwarded through Lord Goderich, then Secretary for the Colonies. The interval before an an- swer could be returned was employed in collecting informa- tion and organizing the necessary co-operation. In this I was warmly seconded and efficiently aided by many gentle- men whose opinions and assistance were most valuable, and more especially by Nicholas Garry, Esq., the Deputy Go- vernor of the Hudson's Bay Company, Captains Beaufort and Maconochie, Doctor Richardson, and George Baillie, Esq. I addressed, moreover, on the 21st of August, a letter to the Geographical Society, explaining my views, and re- questing that they might be recommended to the favourable >, ll'- \ PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. 11 consideration of Mr. Hay, Undersecretary for the Colonies, and a member of that Society. It is gratifying to add, that the sipport of Mr. Hay was zealously afforded; and, shortly afterwards, the following letter was sent to Mr. Ross: — "Downing Street, ^ 30th August, 1832. << Sir, * Sir (i. Cockburn, G. C. B., Chairman. John Barrow, Esq., F. R. S. Robt. Hay, Esq., F. R. S. Vice Admiral Sir W. Hotham, K. C. B. Vice Admiral Sir Charles Ogle, Bart. Rear Admiral W. H. Gage. Felix Booth, Esq. The Hon. Capt. H. Duncan, R. N, Capt. Bowles, R. N. Capt. Beaufort, H. N., F. R. S. J. H. Pelly, Esq. Governor H. B. Company. Nich. Garry, Esq. Dep. Gov. do. W. P. Craufurd, Esq. Capt. Beechey, R. N., F. R. S, Dr. Richardson, F. R. S. Capt. Hoppner, R. N. Capt. Maconochie, R. N. C. Beverly, Esq. F. R. S. Robert M'Culloch, Esq. J. Spence, Esq. George Ross, Esq., Honorary Secretary. Of these, Mr. Booth, Captain Duncan, and Captain Bowles were appointed Trustees. The services 'and influence of Sir George Cockburn, which had been so beneficially employed in aid of the expedition, were soon lost to the Committee, in consequence of his appointment to the command on the West India station. But his place was condescendingly supplied by his Royal Highness, the Duke of Sussex, who was pleased to become Vice Patron and Chairman. Mr. George Ross 14 PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. also having resigned his situation as honorary secretary, and turned his attention to the object of getting up an expedition by sea for the same benevolent purpose, his place was taken by Robert Mm his mc- amply re- ich happy ical know- brmation the Mag- hem. as regard- and in the st unlook- anions, or edition in Fury, it was still thought, in our uncertainty of the precise place where the Thlew-ee-choh-desseth might fall into the sea, that the coast line between Point Turnagain and the known land to the eastward might be satisfactorily ascertained, and thus another step made towards the determination of that interest- ing problem — the northern limits of America. For all these purposes, I was provided with a variety of astronomical instruments, including a dipping needle by Dol- lond, and a diurnal variation instrument by Jones; which latter was also to be used to obtain the effect produced on the needle by the aurora boreal is. I had also one of Professor Hansteen's instruments, besides three chronometers lent by the Admiralty. Guns and other necessary materials were furnished by the Committee; who, that nothing might be omitted which could at all contribute to our comfort, ordered also a plentiful provision of cocoa and macaroni, than which few things are better suited to such undertakings, and of which such was our economical expenditure, that some por- tion even returned with us to Montreal. His most gracious Majesty, the patron of the expedition, having commanded my attendance at Brighton, I had the ho- nour to explain the plans and prospects of the service, with the means adopted to guard against privation, and to secure the party from those disasters to which they might otherwise be subject; and I had the high gratification of receiving the royal approbation of these plans, and a gracious expression of sincere desire for the safety of my party. Their Royal Highnesses the Dutchess of Kent and Princess Victoria also received a deputation, consisting of Vice Ad- miral Sir George Cockburn, Captains Beechey and Macono- chie, with myself, for the purpose of pointing out on the rf } ■;! ;t i ■• il I'.' I ■I if ii I A 18 PRiiLIMINAHY CHAl'TER. chart the line of the proposed route, submitting, at the sanoe time, a sketch of the intended proceedings; — on which occa- sion their Royal Highnesses evinced a truly benevolent inte- rest in the expedition.* Nor was the Duke of Sussex less solicitous to forward the undertaking, as I had the honour to receive a letter from his Royal Highness, recommending me to the attentions of Doctor Hossack, a scientific gentleman at New York. Finally, it was deemed expedient, on many accounts, but more especially to give mc additional authority over the men whom 1 might engage for the service, that my mission should be taken under the direction of his Majesty's Government; and accordingly I received from the Secretary of State for the Colonies the following instructions: — "Colonial Oflicc, Dow^'npf StrccJ, 4th February, lti33. <( Sir, "The Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty having been pleased to lend your services to this office, that you may con- duct an expedition now preparing to proceed to the Polar Sea in search of Captain Ross, you are hereby required and directed to undertake this service, placing yourself for the purpose at the disposition of the Governor and Committee * Be 'les being liberal subscribers to the expedition, their Royal Highnf ' 3ca sent me, some days afterwards, a pocket compass and a case of mathematical instruments, as a contribution to its scientific equipment; and I shall not attempt to describe the enthusiasm which these tokens ol* the interest taken by them in our benevolent mission afterwards created, not only in British North America, but also in the United States. It will be seen in a future part of my Narrative, that this compass, from its extreme delicacy, became afterwaro 3 of essen- tial service. PRELIMINAHY CHAPTEK. 19 of the Hudson's Bay Company, who have undertaken to fur- nish yuu with the requisite resources and supplies. **You are to leave Liverpool early in the present month, and proceed with your party by way of New York to Mon- treal, and thence along the usual route pursued by the north- west traders to Great Slave Lake, which it is hoped you will reach by the 20th of July. You are then to strike off to the north-eastward, or in such other direction as you may ascertain to be most expedient, in order to gain the Thlew- ee-choh-desscth, or Great Fish River, which is believed either to issue from Slave Lake, or to rise in its vicinity, and thence to flow with a navigable course to the northward, till it reaches the sea. On arriving on the banks of this river, you are to select a convenient situation for a winter residence, and immediately appoint a portion of your force to erect a house thereon; but, if possible, you are to proceed yourself, with an adequate party, and explore the river to the coast the same season, erecting a conspicuous land-mark at its mouth, and leaving notice of your intention to return the ensuing spring, in case Captain Ross should be making progress along this part of the shore. "You are to take care, however, to return before the com- mencement of the winter, to avoid any undue exposu 'e of your men. During the winter you are to construct two boats, capable, in your opinion, of navigating the Polar Sea; and as early as possible in the ensuing spring you are to de- scend again to its shores. "Your proceedings afterwards must be much guided by your own judgment. The first object will be to reach Cape Garry, where his Majesty's late ship Fury was wrecked; on the remaining stores of which it is known that Captain Russ in " *>! I ill i; •■•I tl '■ ii 'I I • i '' 20 rKKLIJIINAlty CHAPTER. some measure relied: but in making for this, whether by the east or west, you must be governed by the position of the mouth of the river, and other local circumstances, as you progressively ascertain them, *'While passing along the coast, you arc to keep* a vigilant look-out upon the shore for any signal or indication of the party of which you arc in search, (particularly at the entrance of the Hecla and Fury Strait, should you take the eastera passage;) and in the event of your meeting them, previous to your arrival at Cape Garry, you are to offer to return im» mediately, and bring them with you to the Hudson's Bay settlements. Or, should you find any indication of their having been on any part of the coast before your arrival, you are to search minutely for some memorial which may lead to the discovery of their intentions; and to proceed, in the event of success, in whatever practicable direction may seem best calculated td lead you to them. W «,* "Beveling the summer, then, to the interesting seaiish in contemplation, it is unnecessary to recommend to yoifMto make it as effectual as possible, consistently with a due re- gard for the health and preservation of your party. But, whatever may be its prospects or success, you are on no account to prolong it beyond such a period of the year, (va- rying from the 12th to the 20th of August, according to the distance which you may have attained,) as will injure your return to your winter quarters before the severe wieather sets in. On your acting in this particular arith ^j^ caution may depend the eventual success of the w^ole ttfPedition. On your return to your temporary estabMhmept, you are care- fully to examine the state of your sliSEnliesf if possible, also> communicating with Great Slave Laxe, to ascertain whether additional .stores are there collected for you. And if you i J •■■i 4 i^ PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. 21 ler by the on of the s, as you a vigilant )n of the ; entrance e eastern previous iturn im- on's Bay of their ival, you may lead d, in the lay seem I esn$!^ in youMto due re- . But, on no ar, (va- g to the re your ler sets an may n. On e care- e, alsop hether if you find that you can, with reasonable prudence, devote a second summer to the service on which you are engaged, you are hereby required and directed to do so; but if not, you are to return to England in the following spring. "Subordinate to your object of finding Captain Ross, or any survivors or survivor of his party, you are to direct your attention to mapping what yet remains unknown of the coasts which you will visit, and making such other scientific obser- vations, as your leisure will admit; for which purposes the requisite instruments will be supplied to you. But you are jiot for such objects to deviate from your principal pursuit, Until you shall have either succeeded in its accomplifSment, or satisfactorily ascertained that its success is imposs le. **You are, during your absence, to embrace any opportu- nities that may offer of corresponding with this Office, and repoiHyour arrival here on your return. "I have the honour to be. Sir, * h^^they the diffi- ved,*lhat e as rash crossing er direc- en relin- y of the i oppose ision for streams of the pid, and ous ob- a small Jnetrat' The other points of my instructions were followed up to the best of my ability, as, it is humbly hoped, will be demon- strated in the narrative which follows. I cannot, however, close this preliminary statement, with- out conveying the public expression of my thanks to Mr. Richard King, for his uniform attention to the health of the party, and the r(;adiness with which he assisted me in all cases where his services were required. To him the merit is due of whatever collections have been made in natural histo- ry, as well as of the preparation of a table of the temperatures of animals, &c. &c. To the invaluable services of Mr. R. M'Leod, the narra- tive itself bears ample testimony; yet I must be permitted to indulge my own feelings, by offering to him here the tribute of my gratitude and esteem, for the zeal, courage, constancy, and ability which he displayed in emergencies and trials of no ordinary kind. 1 he men, also, anij^articularly those who accompanied me to the sea, were aOT^iraby qualified for the service they undertook, and are entilfed to my warmest commendations for their general conduct* Nor can I withhold especial no- tice of the three artillery-men who accompanied me from 4 1 » im^ 86 I'HELIMrNARY CHAI'TKR. I i lis; i! " |; 1." ■*' ■ ! ; 4 Montreal; their behaviour furnishing an instructive and use- ful example to the others, and fully according with the high and generous feeling which induced them first to engage in the expedition. » Numerous, indeed, are the obligations which I am under to a multitude of excellent persons, both in England and America, who either gave or offered assistance at different stages of the enterprise. A particular and circumstantial ac-« knowledgment of all these is impossible; but my English friends, I am sure, will forgive me for making one exception. After the fire at Montreal, by which our hotel was consumed, a rumour having got abroad that all the instruments, &c. be- longing to the expedition were destroyed, I received, not long afterwards, the following communication: — "Albany, April 29, 1833. <«My dear Sir, "We have just heard of the destruction of* the British Ame* rican Hotel, and it is reported you have suffered loss. Un- der these circumstances, permit one of your t/imerican friends to offer to do any thing for you in his power, by way of REPLACING any articles at his own expense. "Any thing I can do for you it will give me pleasure to do, on hearing from you. "With sincere regard, "Yours very truly, 1^;" "(In haste,) "S. De Witt Bloodgotod, '''Capt. Back. PRELIMINARY CHAPTER. 5i7 ve and use- th the high I engage in [ am under igland and at different stantial ac- y English exception, consumed, ts, &c. be- eived, not :I 29, 1833. tish Ame* )ss. Un- imerican "3 byway easure to , 1 ODGOOD, Any comment on a letter so honourable to the liberal and public-spirited writer would be superfluous. Such a gene- rous act will be duly estimated by every English reader. To my friend Dr. Richardson I owe a large debt of grati- tude for many most useful suggestions, and for his friendly aid in general. The public also is his debtor, not onl}'^ for the valuable matter contained in the fourth Chapter, but also for the exposition of the Natural History which is found in the Appendix. Nor are my obligations less to Professor Christie, of Wool- ' wich, for his valuable assistance in selecting some of the in- struments, and for his examination and analysis of the results of the observations made with them. I am also indebted to Professor Hooker, J. G. Children, Esq., and Dr. Fitton, for their kind assistance in different departments of science. Of the great and unappreclable service afforded by the Go- vernor, Deputy Governor, and Directors of the Hudson's Bay Company, I have already spoken; but I should be in- deed ungrateful, if I were not to add that their benevolent intentions were zealously fulfilled, and their judicious ar- rangements carried into complete effect by Mr. Simpson, the resident Governor, and the various officers in the service of the Company. Those who reflect how much, if not how en- tirely, the success of an expedition like that which I had the honour to command must necessarily have depended on the aid and co-operation of these gentlemen, will feel how in- cumbent it is on me to acknowledge, as I now do, with sin- cere and fervent gratitude, the prompt attention, the ready assistance, and the provident care for our wants, manifested by all and each of them in their respective departments. Thus, for the co\nplcte and effective arrangements at Montreal I am s. 28 PRELlMINAnV CHAPTER. II .'\\ M Mil p .1 "''^ indebted lo Mr. James Keith, the agent of the Company at La Chine. At Norway House, chief factors Christie, Came- ron, Rowand, and Lewis rendered me important service in the procuring of a crew, and suggested whatever useful in- formation their experience and knowledge of the country enabled them to supply. By Mr. Christie, indeed, the whole of the winter stock was forwarded to the establish- ment at Fort Reliance. Neither can I pass over in silence the efficent and valuable services of chief factors Charles, Smith, Stuart, and M'Kenzie, Sen.; of Mr. D. Ross at the depot of Norway House; Messrs. D. M 10 would The in- 1 cline his '■ efore, to 1 baffled 1 much lo 1 ni.ju lu iJ charge, who assured us that the light canoes of ll>e preceding season had been fully twelve days later. It was h(!re that th(! large canoes were to be exchanged lor sniall(;r, better calcu- lated to overcome the numerous impediments which obstruct the navigation of the inland rivers; and I hatl every reason to he satisfied with the two beautiful ones which had been constructed for the purpose, by the direction of (lovernor Simpson, and under the sui)erinten(lence of Mr. M'Intosh. An entire day was now devoted to the examining and re- packing of our various stores and instruments. Our "North Canoe," brought from Montreal, was also repaircid; for, lum- bered as we were with provisions, it was found imjiracticablc to ascend the shallow waters of the Kaminestiquoia witliout taking her, in addition to the two new ones; and 1 did this the less reluctantly, as no extra expense was thus incurrecU and there were hands enough to manage the three. The Canadian voyas;c.nr is, in all respects, a peculiar cha- racter; and on no point is he more sensitive, or, rather, to use an expressive term, more touchy, than in the just distri- bution of "pieces" among the several canoes forming a party. It must be admitted, at Uic same time, that he has very sub- stantial reasons for being particular in this matter, for he well knows that, supposing the canoes to be in other respects equally matched, a very small inequality of weight will make a considerable difference in their relative speed, and will oc- casion, moreover, a longer detention at the portages. The usual mode is for the guide to separate the pieces, and then to di.-itribute or portion them out by lots, holding in his hand little sticks of different lengths, which the leading men draw. P>om the decision so made there is no appeal, and the parties go away laughing or grumbling at their different fortunes. These important preliminaries, therefore, being settled to the t •Hj^rt'' ,1':.:: 4iP 38 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES .'in.: 11 ■ 1^'' ',ntl'"' ,'^*'«ti Jf' I m''' ii^'w . i/'if tolerable satisfaction of those concerned, we took leave of our friendly host, and encamped at the imposing fall of Ka- kabikka, by the voyageiii's commonly called the Mountain Fall. This has been well and grapliically described by Major Long* and Sir J, Franklin ;t in magnitude it is inferior only to the Niagara or the Falls of Wilberforce, whilst it far sur- passes both in picturesque effect. On the 26th, the despatch canoe (a sort of mail) overtook us at the Savannah portage; and I gladly seiz the onportu- nity it afforded me of sending a letter to Mr. mpson, with a requisition for men and stores, and a request hat he would do me the favour to make certain inquiries as to the most practicable route to the 'l^hlew-ee-choh-dezethj • While descending the narrow and encumbered stream of the Savannah, William Malley, one of my volunteer artille- rymen, slipped off a floating tree, as he was attempting to open a passage for the canoes, and narrowly escaped being drowned; but he bore the accident with so much indiffer- ence and good humour as to call forth the admiration of Paul, who at once predicted that he would make a good voyageur. On the 31st, we crossed Lac do la Pluie, which well sus- tained its name and character, by receiving us with a pelting rain which drenched us to the skin. There was neither meat nor fish at the Company's establishment, and, owing to the failure of the crops, scarcely any rice, (wild rice, Folle ar- vine, Zizania aquatico,) which is generally abundant at * "Narrative of an Expedition to St. Peter's River, Lake Winne- peg," &c. I* t "Second Journey to tlie Polar Sea." JDezeth, desseh, tessy, &c. being only the same word for river, will in future be omitted in the Narrative. Cf OK rilK A lit: TIC SKA. 39 )ok leave of ? fall of Ka- e Mountain ed by Major nferior only St it far sur- 1) overtook le onportu- ipson, with t he would > the most stream of eer artille- mpting to ped being indiffer- n of Paul, oyageur, well sus- a pelting ther meat ig to the Folle ar- ndant at B Winne- this solitary station, growing in the swampy ground round the lake. We encamped on a small island in ihe Lake of the Woods,'which was literally covered with a dwarf species of prickly pear (Cactus opiinliu,) much to the annoyance of the men, whose feet were soon stuck full of its irritating prickles. On the 6th of June we arrived at Fort Alexander, situated at the southern extremity of Lake Winnepeg. Here I had hoped to find the governor, and was not a little disappointed when informed by Mr. Clouston, the gentleman in charge, that it might be several days before he arrived; though, as the despatch canoe had left the day before, there was every reason to suppose that he was by that time in possession of my letter, and, therefore, would naturally infer that I could not be far off. Important as every hour was to the accom- plishment of my plans, it was of still greater moment to me to see Mr. Simpson personally; and, aware of the probability of our passing each other unobserved, if I attempted to hasten towards him in a canoe, I preferred the alternative of remain- ing quietly at the establishment, and so securing an interview which I so an^ently desired. To beguile the time, the stores were examined, and the few which the rain had damaged were exposed to the sun, dried, and carefully repacked. I also made a set of obser- vations for the dip. The result was 79° 12',* making a dif- ference of 25 minutes from those taken on a former occa- sion. The vibrations and dip were ascertained alternately, according to the face of the instrument; and all were satis- factory enough, except needle No. 2, reversed, with the face iver, will * The results are those given by the instrument, without any correc tion for temperature. '•V '^!!i: 1; - \% 'M'l ■Ml!, 1;! :1 ■* .^m ji^t \m s ■0 I ., ;(('" ..J ^(f/ll , ,,//'ll'|l I 40 JOUUNKY TO THE SHOSKS of the inslrumotit east, when a considerable alteration appear- ed both in the number of the vibrations and the point at which the needle finally rested. A second trial showed a similar discrepancy. The reason of this peculiarity I could not divine until about an hour afterwards, when some gen- tlemen arrived from the westward, and acquainted us that they had just encountered a severe thunder shower, though the sky over the fort underwent no visible change, and wore the same sultry aspect as it had done most of the forenoon. Amongst the people who had accompanied us from Mon- treal, was a tall fine-looking fellow of the name of Larke, who had volunteered, and, indeed, had taken a great deal of trouble to get entered for the expedition. He had passed a part of his life in the woods, was particularly well qualified for such an undertaking, and had attracted universal admira- tion by his apparent determination to brave all difficulties. This man now, however, came to me, and in a humble tone solicited his discharge, as, to use his own phrase, "he was sure we should be all starved to death;" and so firmly was this unmanly resolution fixed in his mind, that he declared nothing should force him to go on. It is unnecessary to say that such pusillanimous weakness was utterly irreconcilabh with an enterprise like that in which we were engaged, which demanded an entire sacrifice of home comforts, and an en- thusiastic and unreflecting ardour in the prosecution of its objects. I was not sorry, therefore, that the disease had shown itself so early; for, had it broken out hereafter, at a more critical period of the adventure, the infection might have spread in a manner too formidable for remedy. He had his wish, and with it a recommendation, at the same time, to the Company to oblige him to serve, in some dis- tant part, the full term of his three years' engagement. •i'l'l ui' j'HK ahctk; ska. 41 itioii appear- llie point at il showed a I'Jty I could I some gen- ited us that ^^cr, though J, and wore forenoon. from Mon- of Larke, eat deal of d passed a I qualified al admira- ifficulties. nble tone » "he was •mly was declared ry to say oncilable which an en- of its ase had er, at a might He same ne dis- t. n M Mr. H. Borons, who was on his way to Canada from the Red River Colony, brought me the pleasing intelligence that Mr. Simpson would very shortly follow; and as the latter gentleman was about to return to England, without proceed- ing to the depot at Norway House, it was fortunate that I had determined on remaining, though it was certain that nothing which prudence and experience could suggest would have been omitted to promote my views. I learned from Mr. Be- rens that the colony at Red xliverwas in a prosperous state; anH that notwithstanding the failure of the crops last season, meat was from three halfpence to two-pence a pound, and "eggs three-pence a dozen. June 10th. — Governor Simpson arrived, and communicat- ed to me the measures he had adopted, as well as the result of a council held by some of the principal officers of the Com- pany, respecting the affairs of the expedition. * Every aid, it seemed, was to be rendered to our operations; the stores were to be thrown open for our use; and the ser- vices and experience of several well-informed individuals were to be made available for preventing those accidents to which our remote situation, or other local circumstances, might particularly expose us. Part of the stores ordered last year were at Cumberland House, and the remainder would be there before we reached that station. Of pemmican Mr. Simpson anticipated a less plentiful supply, on account of the migration of the buffalo from the plains in the neighbourhood of Carlton and Edmonton, the two principal posts for collect ing that useful, and, to us, indispensable provision. Yet, as orders had been transmitted along the whole line of route up to Great Slave Lake to hoard provision for the expedition, there was every reason to believe that we should not be ex- posed to inconvenience. G ; III I'l 1. 'I' ■. \ .y'! «'(f)i uHi^' 43 JOITRNKY TO THE SHOllKS Two additional men wore enji;af>;ed I' v llie Governor; and for the rest lie recomnuMided me to go as speedily as possible to Norway House; where, hy intercepting the diflerent brigades of boats on their way to Hudson's Bay, 1 might have an opj)ortunity of selecting a choice crew of old hands. Two letters, which about this time I received from Mr. Simpson, arc so creditable to him, both as regards his capa- city as Governor and his feelings as a man, that, though written with no such view, I cannot deny myself the gratiti- cation of making them ])ul)lic. If they excite in others only a small part of the admiration with which 1 regarded them, Mr. Simpson will have no reason to complain. My own feelings towards him may be understood, when it is seen that he thus literally identified himself with the expedition, and, what was scarcely of less value, impressed those around him with the same sentiments. ^*To Captain Back, /?. A^., Com7nand(^r of the *^rctic Land Expedition. "Red River Settlement. 7th June, 1832. »'My DEAR Sir, * "I am in possession of two very valuable communications from you, which came to hand yesterday; one dated London, December 14th, 1832 — the other at Gros Capj Lake Superior, May 12th, 1833. • "It is with unfeigned regret I have to state that imperious circumstances oblige me to forego the pleasure of a personal '€ m OP THK AHCTIC SKA. •I J enior; and as possible e (lillereiit y, 1 might old hands. ! from Mr, s his capa- at, though the gratifi- ithcrs only dcd them, My own it is seen xpedition, )sc around I Jlrctic tlcment, 1832. nications LondoHj u])crior, iperiOus )ersonal Interview with you, on your route to the scene of your ope- rations; hut the state of my healtli is so deranged as to ren- der it ;ihsolutely necessary for me to proceed direct from hence to (' mada, and tiience to England, /or the benefit of medical advice. Indeed, so completely invalided am I at present, that in this communication '. am obliged to hiive re- course to dictation, being unecpial to the fatigue of writing. "Permit me, however, my dear Sir, to assure you that I have perused these favours, together with the printed plan of the expedition under your command, with impressions of the most lively interest. Ii.deed, such are the humane and phi- lanthropic views of the enterprise altogether, that they cannot fail to excite and command the sympathies of all with whom you may come in contact. "For myself, allow me to say, that in my individual as well as official capacity, I am exceedingly anxiot\s to further your benevolent views; and I cannot but rejoice that the con- duct of the enterprise is intrusted to one whose experience, character and abilities have been already so well appreciated by the British public in reference to former expeditions. ^ "What may be the fale of those who are the objects of your humane exertion.* it is, in the present state of things, impossible to say. Should the worst forebodings be realized, still the expense and fatigue of the expedition will be com- pensated abundantly in the valuable acquisitions which dis- covery and science will acquire, collaterally, in its prosecu- tion; while the public in general, and your party in particu- lar, will have the proud satisfaction i.f having done all within the reach of human exertion for the relief of fellow creatures supposed to be in circumstances at which our nature shud- ders. ^ 44 JOURNEY TO THE SHOHES W\^ . m .,1. 4-- J' i lltl " " r I' i\ipiii''»' *'I fully concur in Mr. Keith's suggestions, respecting the necessity of getting experienced men who arc inured to the fatigues of the country. There will prohably be some diffi- culty in procuring volunteers; hut I am happy to rdnfuh! this part of the arrangement to Messrs. Chief-lactors Cameron and Christie, gentlemen, who, from their experience in the coun- try, and well known benevolence of c' aracter, are eminently calculated to assist in furthering the well-being and comfort of the party. Mr. Charles will meet you at Jack River, and is directed to give you the full benefit of his experience and local knowledge of the country about Slave Lake and its, vicinity, "By the enclosed you will perceive that the Council have nominated four officers in the Company's service, all men of courage and ability; any one of whom will be fully adequate to the duties which may devolve upon him under your com- mand. Hd|)e of speedy promotion in the service is the re- ward held out to such person of that number as may embrace theopportunityofaidingandfurtheringyourviewsandobjettS, In fine, I wish it to be perfectly understood that all our re- sources are available to you; that our craft will be at your service, and our stores at your command; and that this letter IS to be considered as sufficient authority for you to call those resources into action as occasion may require. "Believe me, my dear Sir, ♦'Yours most faithfully, "Geo. Simpson." % I OF THK ARCTIC SEA. 4r. 'pecting the lured to the 2 some (liffi- confidj! this !ameron and in the coun- ; eminently md comforf River, and erience and ike and its. Juncil have all men of y adequate your corn- is the re- ly embrace nd objetts, ill our re- e at your this letter call those IMPSON. i ^ i^To JlUxandcr R. M^Leod or Simon M^GilUvvay, Es- quires; and to Mr, John M^Leod, or Mr. Miirdovli A/' F/ierson, "Red River Setflemeni, 5th June, IKirJ. "Gentlemen, "An expedition has been planned by the Governor and Committee and the Arctic Society, in which his Majesty's Government and the British public take the deepest interest, having for its object the discovery of Captain Ross and his crew, and the relieving them from their supposed perilous situation, if still in existence; together with the survey of those unknown regions on the northern coast of America lying between Point Turnagain and the Straits of the Fury and Hecla. • <'The command of this expedition has been given to Cap- tain Back, R. N. ; and the Governor and Committee have directed that every support, assistance, and facility be afford- ed that gentleman towards carrying the important objects alluded to into effect, which we are most anxious should be met with the best feeling, in spirit and to the letter. <*Captain Back will require the assistance of one of the Honourable Company's officers on this missian; and we see none so likely to render him the assistance required as one of yourselves. We therefore call upon one of you, in the order in which your names stand at the head of this letter, to join Captain Back without delay, and to act under the command of that gentleman in the service in question; and as an encouragement to enter on this dangerous service, we 46 JOUHNEV TO TtIK SIIORES i >C .^'"^^'i ' luML'hy assiiro to you Alcxaiulcr Hodcriok M'Lcotl, Esquire, or to you Simon Al'dillivniy, KHqiiirc, our warmest su|)))ort towards farly pronioliou to a chicr (uotorshij), in tho event of oitlicr iMuharkinj; on this (uitfrprisc, and rendering to Cap- tain Hack such vahiahle stTvices as we consider you qualilied to alVord; and to Mr. Joiui JVI'Leod, or Mr. Murdoch M'Pherson, we lierel)y promise our warmest support to- wards early promotion to a chief traderslup, in the event of either emharking on this enterprise, and rendering in like manner to Captain IJack such valuahle services as we consider you capahle of aflbrding, besides an increase of salary of 100/. per annum for the time you may be employed on this expedition. "I am, Gentlemen, *'Your most obedient Servant, **Geo. Simpson." Flattering, as these arrangements were, and in the hurry of our affairs decidedly the best that could have been made, I felt nevertheless that the time necessary to collect my party and stores, and convey them into the interior against the obstacles and dilFv^ultics of an unknown route, would serious- ly obstruct, if it did not entirely prevent, my getting to the Polar Sea this autumn. Not that this would materially affect our ulterior object, as I believe the most sanguine never con- templated the idea of our being in a condition to afford suc- cour to Captain Ross and his much-enduring party before the summer of 1834. Yet for many reasons it was desirable that the situation and nearest route to the river Thlew-ee- choh, and thence to the sea, should be discovered, if practi- cable, by the time the laden batteaux should get to Slave Lake; more especially as it would tend to encourage the men» OF TUB ARCTIC SKA. 47 k1, Esquire, icsl sii|)j)ort > Iho event •inj; to Cap- oil qualified . Murdoch support to- lie event of ing in like we consider >f salary of ^'cd on this Simpson.'* the hurry cen made, my party 2;ainst the d serious- ng to the ally affect never con- fford sue- ty before desirable hlew-ee- if practi- to Slave the men, ■^1 who, generally speaking, are always more or less nervous on new ground. After the departure of Mr. and Mrs. Simpson, I prepared to leave Kort Alexander — to the great delight of the voyu- i^eur.Sf who had been so tormented by the mosquitoes that they longed to get to the cool breezes of Lake Winnipeg, and indidge in the luxury of an luulisturbed nap. My com- panion Mr. King, among others, was severely pn wished, to hi^ no little disappointment, — as, being indifferent to the attacks of English insects of every description, he had fondly imagined he should be invulnerable to those of America. IJut a dipping in the Styx itself would not have saved him from the darts of the indefatigable searchers after blood to which he was now exposed; and he rose in the morning with features so changed that it was difficult to recognise the friend of the preceding night. At 4 A. M. of the 11th of June, we left the establishment; but the wind blew so hard, that we had not proceeded more than three miles before the height of the waves, which broke freely over both sides of the canoes, obliged us to encamp. But few birds of any kind were seen; and though I remem- bered that on a former occasion the wild pigeons were very numerous, yet none were now found near the fort, though the cleared land around the Red River colony, not more than a day's march off, was said to swarm with them. On the 12th and following day we made considerable progress. The weather afterwards became unsettled and stormy. Geese, ducks, plover, gulls, and tern, were seen sparingly scattered along the east shore of the lake, which, unlike the mountains to the north, which are limestone,* is composed of smooth *Richar(lson, Appendix to Franklin. I" . / •' 48 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES and rounded granitic rocks of little altitude, intervening be- hvcen low banks, with sand, and skirted by a swampy coun- try behind. From the diflferent ridges of sand in the bays between the rocks, and the increase of vegetation on them, I concluded that the shore was gradually gaining on the water; and this opinion seems confirmed by the fact that the Company has been obliged to change the situation of Old Norway House, on the opposite side, owing to the rapidly progressive advance of the water there. In fact, it has so undermined and washed away the banks, as to have arrived within a few feet of a building, the distance of which from the edge of the lake in 1819 was upwards of three hundred yards. Few pelicans were noticed; and as these birds are faithful attendants at good fishing places, for which the lake is remarkable, the Canadians augured an inc' liferent season. .m On the 17th of June, having hoisted the Company's flag, we arrived at the depot called Norway House, situated on Jack River. Our reception was most cordial. Messrs. Chris- tie, Rowand, Lewis, and Donald Ross, for most of whom I had letters from my excrllent friend Mr. Garry, lost not a moment in tendering all the assistance in their power. But notwithstanding the good feeling on their part, some trouble was experienced from the exorbitant terms proposed by the men who seemed disposed to volunteer. The bulk of the people from the more remote stations had already passed the ,fi: P' 1: . ■ i : ■ 'i !■■-■ 1 : ■ ■I I'- P',^.^ rifH n^ u 50 JOURNEY TO THK SHORES pie about receiving them, and directed their agreements to be made out. In the mean time, however, returning to the camp, they were met by their wives, who were no sooner made acquainted with the transaction than they resorted to different, though as it seems equally efficacious, methods of diverting them from their purpose. The one, a good strap- ping dame, cuffed her husband's ears with such dexterity and good will, that he was fain to cry peccavi, and seek shelter in a friendly tent; the other, an interesting girl of seventeen, burst into tears, and with piteous sobs clung to the husband of her love, as if she would hold him prisoner in her arms. I had therefore to look elsewhere; and it was not until the 26th, that George Sinclair (born in the country, and an ad- mirable steersman) engaged on similar terms with M*Kay. There now wanted but one; and this deficiency was with great kindness supplied by Mr. Cameron's allowing me to take an Iroquois belonging to the Company, on condition that if he went beyond Slave Lake, he should be entitled to the same advantages as the others. * *The men engaged for the expedition were the following:-* Thomas Matthews William Matthews John Ross William Malley Hugrh Canon David Williamson William Rowland Thomas Anderson Malcolm Smith. Donald M'Donald. Morrison Morrison. James Spence Peter Taylor Charles Boulanger. Pierre Kanaquasse. Thomas Hassel Interpreter. Also the following, who were subsequently discharged: Antoine De Cnarloit. Pierre Ateasta. La Charite. Two more Iroquois. Olivier Seguin. Frantjoie Hoole. ? Carpenters. Artillerymen. > Fishermen. i Engaged afterwards. m OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 51 ^reements to irning to the ■e no sooner y resorted to , methods of I good strap- lexterity and seek shelter if seventeen, the husband lerarms. I lot until the y and an ad- ith M«Kay. cy was with wing me to •n condition e entitled to All was now complete} and, after writing despatches for His Majesty's Government and the Arctic Committee, let- ters, &c., I took leave of my worthy host Mr. Ross, and at 2 a. m., June 28th, left Norway House. ing:- 52 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES CHAPTER II. \y ,r~- ji!- m*' Commencement of the Expedition. — Interview with Mr. Charles.— Wind-bound by a Land Gale.— A receipt for the Cure of ''Blue Devils?''— Description of a Voyagejir''s Tent.— A Land Storm.— The Grand Rapid. — Advance of Cultivation. — Arrival at Cumber- land House. — Departure of the Batteaxuv under Mr. King. — Em- bark in a Canoe. — Working of the Boats in the Rapids. — Isle a la Crosse.— Buffalo Lake. — A Squall.— A Skunk. — Portage la Loche, —Effect of the Scenery. — Interview with Mr. Stuart and Mr. A, M'Leod. — 7%e latter volunteers to accompany the Expedition.— Ar- rive at Fort Chippewyan.— Information as to the suppos.j'1 Route by the Fond du Lac— Journey resumed.— Salt River.— Sketch of a Party of Indians. — Description of the Salt Springs. — Indian En- campment.—Information of the Natives as to the Rivers Thlew-ee* choh and Teh-Ion.— Arrival at Fort Resolution, June 28th. — This was a happy day for me; and as the canoe pushed off from the bank, my heart swelled with hope and joy. Now, for the first time, I saw myself in a condi- tion to verify the kind anticipations of my friends. The preliminary difficulties had been overcome: I was fairly on the way to the' accomplishment of the benevolent errand on which I bar' been commissioned: and the contemplation of OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 53 an object so worthy of all exertion, in which I thought my- self at length free to indulge, raiscwl my spirits to a more than ordinary pitch of cxcitemonf. "r. Charles.-^ ire of '•Blue md Storm.—* I at Cximber* King.~Em- is. — Isle a la e la Loche, and Mr. A, edition.— Ar- f^'l Route by -Sketch of a Indian En- 's Thlew-ee- and as the with hope n a condi- ds. The fairly on errand on plation of We paddled along, with little respite, until 5 p. m., when a small speck was seen under the steep sandy cliffs round Mossy Point, on the northern boundary of l^ake Winnipeg. It was coming towards us, and was at first taken for an In- dian canoe; but as we approached, I had the satisfaction to find that it was the Company's light canoe from the Atha- basca, with Messrs. Smith and Charles, two gentlemen whom I had long wished to see. From the latter I now learnt that he had made every endeavour to obtain, by inquiries from the Indians, a tolerably correct notion of the situation of the river Thlew-ee-choh ; the result of which was an opinion that it ran somewhere to the north-east of Great Slave Lake, in a position not far from that which had been speculatively assigned to it by my friend Dr. Richardson and myself. Mr. Charles had further been informed by an Indian chief, call- ed the "Grand Jeune Homme," whose hunting grounds were in the neifjhbourhood of Great Slave I^ake, that the Thlew- ee-choh was so full of rapids as to make it doubtful if boats, or indeed large canoes, could descend it; but that, by pur- suing a different course to a large river, called Teh-Ion, such difficulties would be avoided; whilst the distance between the mouths of the two rivers was so trifling, that the smoke of a fire made at one was distinctly visible at the other. The chief had drawn a rough outline of the track, some part of which I recognised as being on the borders of Slave Lake; but the directions assigned to the rivers could not be explain- ed by either of the gentlemen, nor was I able to bring my- self to any satisfactory conclusion about them. The waters, however, were described as abounding in fish, and the coun- m ■.-i. _!«_ .)" V-l', ',i il >l,il ■' .'•)• |!r,«^.- .1*^'^ 1' I '.(//Ml: ,W 54 JOITRXEY TO THE SHORES try in animals; and, what was not less gratifying, the chief and some others were willing and desirous to accompany me. Mr. Charles was the officer in charge of the Athabasca district; and having resided at Chippewyan Fort, he was well qualified to judge of the accuracy of an opinion expressed by Mr. A. Stewart, a gentleman whom I had seen at Mon- treal, that a practicable route might be found from the bot- tom or eastern extremity of that lake. He disclaimed, how- ever, an) knowledge of such a route, though he thought it desirable that I should ascertain the fact. He, as well as Mr. M'Kenzie, at Isle i la Crosse, had provision for us, if re- quired; and after some further arrangements respecting boats at the north end of Portage la Loche, and the procuring of dogs along the route, in all of which he cheerfully met my wishes, we separated, both for the sea, though in directions very different. The evening was calm and clear, and, if the ' 3trength of the men had been equal to my impatience, we should have passed the night on the water; but they had been nearly eighteen hours labouring at the paddles, and I could not refuse them a little rest: at 8^ 4"™ p. m., therefore, we encamped on the beach, and were instantly beset by swarms of mosquitoes. ^ The appearance of the cliffs or steep banks, from Mossy to New Limestone Point, is somewhat remarkable: they are composed of clay, with a superstratum of vegetable substances about six feet thick; the layers of which appear to be hori- zontally foliated, like the leaves of an outspread book. In colour they vary from a blackish brown to a light ochre, and they rest entirely on a substratum of calcareous sand, with small fragments of water-worn limestone, on which the lake is constantly encroaching, as may be distinctly seen by the !, I OK THK AKCTIU SEA. 55 ng, the chief company me. le Athabasca , he was well )n expressed Jen at Mon- •om the bot- aimed, how- e thought it I well as Mr. Jr us, if re- jecting boats )rocuring of lly met my n directions , and, if the atience, we 3y had been and I could jrefore, we by swarms om Mossy i: they are substances to be hori- book. In )chre, and iand, with h the lake en by the numberless broken stems of trees, whoss roots are yet green in the soil. We started at three o'clock on the following morning, and were soon relieved from the fatigue of the paddle by a favour- able light breeze. To go on shore and trim a mast was the work often minutes; but as, according to the old adage, <'it never rains but it pours," so our light breeze was soon con- verted into a gale. In an hour or two we were compelled to run the canoe into shoal water, to save her from being swamped in deep, and each man, getting out, waded with the baggage to a place of shelter, where the canoe also was secured. Nothing is more annoying to a sailor than to be wind- bound on fresh water. "On the wide ocean ranging," he is more resigned to the imperious will of the elements; but, to be stopped for an indefinite time, within sight of birds and animals gamboling in the gale, is a species of annoyance which quite overcomes his philosophy: at least, it was so with me; so, to dispel the moody fit which was gathering, I drew on a pair of Esquimaux boots made of seal skin, and, taking my gun, made the tour of a thickly wooded swamp, which was so interlaced with undergrowth, willows, and fallen trees, that, when once in, I found it no easy matter to get out again. In the exertion necessary for extricating myself my restlessness found a vent, and the exercise soon restored my mind to its usual tone, and prepared it for other occupations. I returned to the tent thoroughly tired; and, here reclining in the full ease oia.voi/ageur, I amused myself with observing the odd assemblage of things around me. At my feet was a rolled bundle in an oil-cloth, containing some three blankets, called a bed; — near it a piece of dried buffalo, fancifully or- namented with long black hairs, which no art, alas! can pre- i ' ' 1 . 1 ! I'l 1 . 1,' ■; 11 S "i 1 1; ■;;: .,4' [ ■■'i's ''^ •■""Ji • 56 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES vent from insinuating themselves between the teeth, as you laboriously masticate the tough, hard flesh; — then a tolerably clean napkin spread, by way of table-cloth, on a red piece of canvass, and supporting a tea-pot, some biscuit, and a salt- cellar;— near this a tin plate, close by a square kind of box or safe, of the same material, rich with a pale greasy ham, the produce of t'.ic colony at Red River; — and, last, the far- renowned pemmican, unquestionably the best food of the country for expeditions such as ours. Behind me were two boxes, containing astronomical instruments, and a sextant lying on the ground; — whilst the different corners of the tent were occupied by washing apparatus, a gun, Indian shot pouch, bags, bnsins, and an unhappy-looking japanned pot, whose melancholy bumps and hollows seemed to reproach me .or many a bruise eudured upon the rocks and portages betwixt Montreal and Lake Winnipeg. Nor was my crew less motley than the furniture of my tent. It consisted of an Englishman, — a man from Stornaway, — two Canadians, — two Metifs, (or half-breeds,) — and three Iroquois Indians. Babel could not have produced a worse confusion of unhar- monious sounds than was the conversation they kept up. T( ids evening the wind abated, and I made sure of re- suming the march in the night; but the clouds soon grew heavier, and sent forth, at intervals, hollow-sounding gusts of wind, the harbingers of a strong gale, which the morning of the 30th ushered in. The lake resembled one rolling sheet of foam, which contrasted strongly with the dark slaty sky to windward: the mosquitoes had vanished; six or eight gulls, unable any longer to sustain their flight in search of food, had huddled together on the lee side of a projecting sand-bank; and two crows, wearied with exertion, sat perched on the waving branches- of a tall pine, unscared by the ap- proach of intruding feet. It was altogether an impressive OP THE ARCTIC 9KAi 37 teeth, as you 3n a tolerably L red piece of t, and a salt- kind of box greasy ham, last, the far- food of the ne were two nd a sextant rs of the tent Indian shot ipanned pot, to reproach and portages 'as my crew consisted of Canadians, lois Indians, n of unhar- cept up. sure of rC' soon grew iding gusts le morning )ne rolling dark slaty ix or eight search of projecting at perched jy the ap- mpressive scene of picturesque and melancholy vvildness. I assembled the men in the tent, and read divine service. In the evening a fire-fly was seen. « July 1st. — An opportune change in the weather allowed us to get away; and, having passed the limestone rocks bor- dering that part of the lake, we shortly arrived at the Grand Rapid, the interesting particulars of which are too well and tou ninutcly described in Sir John Franklin'^ Narratives, to require or even justify a repetition here. Some '^freemen,"* Indians, and other idlers, had, according to their usual custom, congregated at cither end of the rapid, with the view of intercepting thf /cyagers, as they passed to and from the interior, in order to barter their maple sugar, or, in consideration of a recompense, lu assist the exhausted crews in carrying their heavy burdens across the portage. Many were sick, and all bitterly complained of the late scarcity of animals. Having poled up several rapids, we got to Cedar Lake, the well-known "I i^c Bourbon," where Indian barbarity, in its most hideous form, annihilated for ever the pious labours of the early missionaries. In the River Saskashawan, I was not more pleased than surprised to behold, on the right bank, a large farm house, with barns and fc.ived inclosures, amid which were grazing eight or ten fine cows, and three or four horses, it belonged to a freeman, of the name of Turner, whom I regretted not having an opportunity of seeing. * Persons who, having been in the Company's emj)loy, have obtained their discharge, and are living on their own exertions. 8 M ^^m': 1 'i. " li \A :\ 'to ' rt Vh t ■■::! 58 JOURNKy TO TIIK SHORES ( i ,1^' ^M4 I PI" ,^'.;, /■'■ At length, on the 5th of July, we entered the T^ittle River, and gc I tc Pine Island Lake. The crew had dressed th-m- selves out in all their finery, — silver hands, tassels, .^'•u fea- thers in their hats, — intending to ajjproach the station with some effect; but, unhappily foi the poor fellows, the rain lell in torrents, their feathers drooped, and such was the accumu- lation jf mud, that it was uecesbary to wade a full mile be- fore \^'e .)Ould land at Cumberland House. Owing to the same c-iuse, a creek leading from the Saskashawan had been rendered impassable; and dry land extended so far from the house into the lake, that the fishery, as I afterwards found, was diminished almost to nothing. During the whole of my stay there, thoMgh no pains were spared, not a solitary f ".h was taken. I was received by Mr. Isbester, a clerk of the Company, my companion, JVIr. King, v.'ho had rrived with* out accident, and another person, who had been accommo- dated with a passage in thf boat. The boats, stores, and pemmican were in good order and quite read J ; and having made fsome arrangements with Mr. Isbester, for our mutual convenience, and a few changes as regarded the different crews, I had the satisfaction of getting my .wo batteaux away, under the orders of Mr. King, on the 6th of July. Each was laden with a cargo of 61 pieces of 90 lbs. each, making, for both, 10,980 lbs., exclusive of men, bedding, clothes, masts, sails, oars, and other spars. Yet, with such steersmen as M'Kay and Sinclair, I had not the slightest apprehension for their safety, and looked with con- fidence to their arriving at winter quarters before the setting in of the ice, ' e T< occupied the day to make some alterations in the canoe, and I availed myself of the interval to obtain observations on the dip, force, and latitude; the latter of which agreed. ■■i^J! OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 59 Little River, I't'sscd thrn- >els. ,> a fea- station with the rain lell the accumu- fuU mile he- wing to the an had heen 'ar from the ards found, ivhole of my solitary f?".h ilerk of the rrived with* 1 accomrno- d order and ts with Mr. changes as n of getting Cing, on the 31 pieces of live of men, pars. Yet, lad not the i with con- the setting I the canoe, bservations ich agreed, within three seconds, with Sir J. Franklin's. I also wrote to the Company for a further supply of stores to be forward- ed with the outtit of the following season. The hope of getting sights for time induced me to remain a little longer than I had intended; but, as tliere was every appearance that the weather would continue overcast, I embarked about noon of the 7th of July, in the canoe, with eight hands; and, beiiig comparatively light, we made tolerable progress. On the following day we overtook Mr. King in the Stur- geon River, or, as it is more expressly named in tiie country, the Riviere Maligne. It may with perfect propriety be de- scribed as one uninterrupted rapid; and was at that period so low, that the boats had to treble their distance in going backwards and forwards for the cargo. A glance at their manner of working was enough to satisfy me of their capa- bility, and confirmed me in the expectation that they would arrive early at Great Slave Lake. Still the contrast between us was great; and my skilful guide, De Charloit (a half- breed,) did not fail to make the superiority of the canoe ap- pear to the best advantage. The cumbrous batteatix were dragged laboriously, a few paces at a time, by the united ex- ertions of those on board and those on shore. Sometimes, unable to resist the impetuous force of the current, they were swept back; at others, suspended on the arched back of a descending wave, they struggled and laboured until they were again in the shelter of a friendly eddy. But the canoe, frail as she was, and too weak for the encounter of such rude , shocks, was nevertheless threaded through the boiling rapids and sunken rocks with fearful elegance. The cool dexterity with which she was managed was truly admirable; not a "set"* V as missed; and, as she glanced past the boats, she *A "set" is the firm fixing of the pole against the bottom of the river, and a false "i^ot" has often occasioned the loss of a oanoe. I * 4w i It -r- ^ 'M i ■ ■ k; ?>n.A ■f Hi .1' ll 'HI "I 60 JOTTRNEY TO THE SHORES must have seemed to the envying crews as if endowed with preternatural powers. We were soon out of sight, and, by wading and pohMng over shoals and rapids, at length reached the head of that dangerous and annoying river. The canoe was then examined; and, besides several minor fractures, she was found to have been grooved by the sharp and cutting rocks from one extreme to the other. For many days there was heavy rain, with thunder and lightning. The woods were burning in all directions; set on fire, according to the account of some Cree Indians, by their own hands, to scare the animals into the water, where they are more easily cap- tured. • July 17th. — We got to Isle il la Crosse, where I made the necessary arrangements for the boats receiving twenty bags of pemmican, some dogs, and whatever might be further requisite for expediting their progress. Here, also, two new canoes were at my disposal, having been purposely made to prevent any disappointment in conveying the stores to the north of Portage la Loche, in case, as sometimes happens, there should be only sufficient boats to carry the trading sup- plies of the Company to their different posts. However, as my arrangements with Mr. Charles had obviated every diffi- culty in that respect, I had only to admire, and to express my thanks for, such considerate foresight; and, having made the accustomed observations for the dip, force, &c., I left the fort, and pursued my way. Keeping to the left of Clear Lake, we entered Buffalo Lake, which, among a less rude and savage people, would certainly have formed the theme of many a legendary tale of *' hair-breadth 'scapes," from the mischief-loving genius that haunts its shores. Few persons have ever completed the long traverse of this deceitful lake, without being favoured with OF THE ARCTIC SEA. (>1 ndowcd with gilt, and, b^ iigth reached The canoe or fractures, p and cutting y days there The woods rding to the nds, to scare J easily cap- 5 I made the twenty bags ; be further so, two new ely made to ores to the es happens, rading sup- owever, as every diffi- to express iving made , I left the •ed Buffalo ^le, would ary tale of enius that d the long ured with ^■1 a breeze that endangered their lives. I had been caught be- fore; yet, from the unrullud smoothness of its wide surface, I began to fancy that we were now to be exempted from the usual compliment. The men sung and paddled with energy, the fitful cry of a slightly wounded bittern, which lay at the bottom of the canoe, serving for an accompaniment; and we had gained the centre of the traverse, when suddenly a gentle air was felt coming from the well-known (juarter of the Buf- falo Mountain. The suspicious guide would now no longer permit even the customary rest of a few minutes to recover strength, but urged the crew to exertion; and they, ever and anon looking towards the blue summits of the mountain with something of a superstitious glance, made our light bark skim over the water like a thing impelled by wings. A dark cloud rose from behind the mountain, and began to expand towards the zenith; little gusts of wind followed; and in less than half an hour we were in il^o midst of a thunder-storm, that raised a sea from which th'^rc was no escape but by hoisting a shred of a sail, and running through breakers to the nearest lee land. The place was a swamp, concealed by long grass; and, just as a spot had been found to pitch the tent, a man, in going to it, accidentally disturbed a skunk. The animal re- sented the intrusion in the usual way. In a moment there was a general complaint against the rank offence; every one turned himself to windward, and the poor fellow who had unconsciously brought the evil upon us was half stifled with the noisome odour, and threw his capot into the lake, with deep imprecations on the unsavoury and ill-mannered brute. It was the 21st of July when we reached Portage la Loche, the high ridge of land which divides the waters running into Hudson's Bay from those which direct their course to the ' 'fv=^ 1.. \l l M^i 62 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES Arctic Sea. For about six or seven miles on this portage, the voya^eurs are exposed to temporary but acute suffering, from the total absence of good water to quench the thirst, aggravated, in our case, by carrying loads of 200 lbs. in an atmosphere of 68° of Fahrenheit. They are, at the same time, incessantly tormented by myriads of insatiable mosqui- toes and horse-flies, significantly called "bull dogs," which, delighted with the rare treat of a human subject, banquet on their victims till, not unfrequently, the face streams with blood. Happy, therefore, is the moment when the bright surface of the Little Lake is descried, which cools and re- freshes their wearied frames. In addition to these evils, which are common to all, two of my party were sadly foot- fallen, and almost groaned under their burdens, — a sight too painful to be witnessed without compassion. However, iii services such as that on which we were engaged, it often be- comes even a duty to stifle our sensations; or rather, though we may and must feel, there are times when we must be care- ful not to express the feeling. n% After labouring, with frequent halts, through the thick woods, we came suddenly upon the spot from which the pic* turesque and beautiful view from Portage la Loche bursts upon the sight. A thousand feet below, the sylvan landscape lay spread before us, to the extent of thirty-six miles, in all the wild luxuriance of its summer clothing. Even the most jaded of the party, as he Jroke from the gloom of the wood on this enchanting scene, seemed to forget his weariness, and halted involuntarily with his burden', to gaze for a moment, with a sort of wondering admiration, on a spectacle so novel and magnificent. My own sensations, however, had not the keenness of those of a stranger to the sight; and it was not without a sort of melancholy, such as results from satiety, that T contrasted my present feelings wiiLh the rapture which OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 63 I had formerly experienced. It was, to me, Portage la Loche, and nothing more, — the same heautiful and romantic solitude through which I had passed and repassed on two former expeditions. There was nothing new to excite sur- prise, or quicken delight; not a spot or latent heauty, not even a gleam of light glancing across the valley, which had not been well noted before, and diligently treasured in the memory. I looked upon it as I should look upon an exqui- site but familiar picture — with pleasure, but without emo» tion. care- There is something appalling in the vastness of a solitude like this. I had parted from my companions, and was appa- rently the only living being in the wilderness around me. Almost unconsciously I reloaded my gun; and then, stepping cautiously along the narrow ridge of the descent, glided silently into the valley, as if afraid lo disturb the genius of the place. It was a positive comfort to hear, now and then, the hollow tread of the men as they passed rapidly through the thicket which screened them from sight; and when the white tent was pitched, and the curling smoke rose through the dense green of the forest, it seemed as if the spell of the desert was broken, and the whole landscape was suddenly animated into life and cheerfulness* July 23d. — The last loads were brought down to the water's edge, and, as soon as they were safely deposited, the men exhausted with fatigue, threw themselves on the ground, and remained almost motionless for upwards of an hour. After this the canoe was gummed, and we embarked near some hatteaiix belonging to the Company, which, Mr. Charles had informed me, might, if we pleased, be appro- priated to our use. ■■V [ — --luz^ai «»*•»«.««•«»«»«..«»»,. „ . ,^. 1^. 3; 64 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES On arriving at the Pine Portage, I was agreeal)ly surprised by meeting Mr. J. Stuart, and Mr. A. R. M'Leod, who had got thus far on their way from M'Kenzic's Ri\cr, with a large cargo of furs. I had looked forward with no little anxiety to the chance of seeing the latter gentleman, not only as he was the first person named in Governor Simpson's cir- cular to accompany me, but as being an old acquaintance, and one whom I knew to be particularly well qualified for the performance of those duties which the nature of the ser- vice would require. Indeed, his refusal to accompany me would have placed me in a very awkward predicament; for I had reckoned on his assistance in many matters which could not, without great inconvenience, have devolved on myself. It was therefore of importance to secure him; and my friend Mr. Stuart, to whose kindness and love of enterprise I was no stranger, undertook at once to break the subject to him. 13ut there was no necessity for mediation; for^ although Mr. M'Leod had long been indisposed, and was tiicn on his way to Canada, with a view to the re-establishment of his health, no sooner did he see the circular from Mr. Simpson, and learn the humane object of my mission, than he removed every apprehension from my mind, by declaring his sym- pathy for our long absent countrymen, his satisfaction at see- ing me, and his gallant determination to sacrifice his own plans to the pleasure of becoming my companion. I wrote, therefore, immediately to the Company, and, with his able assistance, made a requisition, in full, for the necessary sup- plies, to support the expedition during the year 1834. Mr. Stuart, I believe, was scarcely less delighted at his friend's decision than myself, and, besides many useful suggestions, of whicli I was glad to take advantage, generously offered every aid, public and private, within his power. i!- Hvj July 25th. — There was so much difficulty In stowing tho OF TUK AKCTIC SKA, ti5 surprised , who had r, with a no little , not only son's cir- laintance, ilified for f the ser- ipany mc mcnt; for iich could n myself. my friend rise I was ;t to him. ough Mr. 11 his way lis health, pson, and removed his sym« on at see- lis own I wrote, his ahle sary sup- Mr. friend's Tcstions, y offered iving tho 54 additional bago;sige, that my guide declared the canoe would not hold us: and when it is considered that he had to make places for six more persons, viz. Mr. M'Leod, his wife, three children, and a servant, whom I hired at the same rate as the others; in other words, that fourteen were to be crammed into a space intended for eight or nine, it is not surprising that he should indulge in a growl. He foresaw that, with such extra weight, his "cher canot" would very possibly get broken; and his apprehensions were soon veri- fied by our striking against a sunken rock. After some detentions of an ordinary kind, we got to Fort Chippewyan on the 29th of July. We arrived so early, that we were not in the least expected; and the canoe was not seen until within a short distance of the land, — a circumstance by no means pleasing to the guide, who, besides nis own decorations of many coloured feathers, &c. , had taken more than ordinary pains to display to the best advantage the crim- son beauties of a large silk flag. The sleeping inmates were, however, at length roused; and we were welcomed by Mr. Ross, who had been left by Mr. Charles in charge of the establishment, ^ It was to be regretted that the whole of the Indians usually resorting to this station were, at the time of our visit, too much dispersed to allow of any one in particular being sent for; so that we were obliged to rest satisfied with the meagre narrative of an infirm old Indian, who, in his youthful days, had passed by the Fond du Lac to the rivers I was in search of; and his account was too vague and uncertain to warrant any hopes of success in that direction. Mr. M^Leod, indeed, who had been at the Fond du Luc, confirmed the statement I had first heard, that there was a river there which was known to take its rise far to tlie north: but yet, when the 9 ()G JOUUNEY TO THE SlIOUES old man concluded his description of the country by remark- ing, that "he was old and of no importance in his tribe; and he did not like to say too much," — a tone which, however pralsewortliy for its modesty, was very different from the bold expression with which an Indian, conscious that he is right, usually concludes his answers to similar inquiries, as, *'It must be so, for my eyes have seen it," — I say, when I heard this, I abandoned at once all idea of going by the Fond du Lac, ^'i3 ":l i'i m i'f ! h ' Besides tlie provisions required from this post, there were many other indispensable articles that could not be provided elsewhere; but under the superintendence of Mr. M*Leod, the greater part, together with the necessary implements for building a new establishment, were ready in a couple of days. In that interval, I obtained observations for the dip, force, &c. ; and with an increased carrro of several bags of grease, iron-work, gun"^ «nd bales of leather, which were put into a second canoe, which I thought might be convenient in the event of finding any shoal rivers to the north, we quitted the fort late in the evening of the 1st of August; fur- ther instructions being left for the guidance of Mr. King, on his arrival with the bateaux. The lake was unusually low this season, and, in conse- quence, we had more than ordinary trouble in crossing the flats to Stony River, where we encamped. The following night was remarkably calm, and we heard the sound of the Falls at a distance of twenty miles. Great matted rafts of drift wood were floating down the Slave River, and on reach- ing the Rapids and Falls, the water line on the rocks showed u depression of six feet lowor than I had ever seen it. Nu- merous sand and mud banks, of considerable elevation, had been thrown up, and were already green with incipient vege- OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 67 ' remark- ribc; and however from the hat he is jiries, as, , when 1 the Fond here were ! provided M. I J' ,f- '4 *li W -J m4 78 JOUKNEV To TIIK SHORES group, consisting of La Prise luul liIs followers. He had undertaken to paddle my half-sized canoe to the other end of the lake; but finding, as he said, that two persons were required to keep her free from water, he had wisely put on shore to repair her. After that operation, twelve of them, with several dogs, squeezed themselves into her, and yet ma« naged so well, that we had hard work to keep way with them. On parting from the Indians, we were supplied with fresh meat. One of them, to show his respect, put on a surtout that he had purchased at the Fort, The coat was unbuttoned; and, as he was unprovided with inexpressibles, the effect was extremely comical. It Is curious, by the way, to ob- serve that the notion of testifying respect by appearing in full dress, if in this case the term can be properly applied, is not confined to drawing-rooms and courts. Hemmed in by willows on either side, we occasionally got a glimpse of the lake through various little creeks and open- ings, and shortly crossed the Grande Riviere i Jean, to enter the Petite Riviere ^ Jean, where the stream was in our fa- vour. Its course was uncommonly tortuous, the banks being bordered by low land, covered with pine, poplar, and wil- low. The sharp sight of the Indians had detected a jnoosQ some distance ahead of us, and La Prise, being expert at ap- proaching those quick eared animals, went in pursuit. Meanwhile we dropped silently dowa the stream along the opposite side, until a place was found dry enough for encamp- ing. The night was clear and bright; and the men Were earnestly watching the boiling of a kettle of meat, when they were startled by a long shrill whoop, which Loulson the in- terpreter immediately answerered, announcing, at the same time, that it was the Hmall canoe, and that La Prise had kill- ed his game. The splash of paddles wa3 now heard in Ihe distance; and in a few minutes the canoe, with its many in- ! || 01' TIIK AIU 'I'M' SKA« 79 liad mates, glided against the long grass, on the bank of the en* campment, under the broad shade of which nothing was visi- ble but the dark heads of the Indians, as they appeared and vanished, with the motion of their canoe. When Louison Inquired if he had been successful. La Prise, with the cha- racteristic of a true Chipewyan, answered in the negative, Oolah, Oolah! re-echoed the interpreter, in a disappointed tone, oolah! "Monsieur, il a manque; who ever heard of the whoop without its accompanying prey?" Scarcely were the words out, when La Prise was at his side; and as he handed him the gun, gave from the other hand the fine tongue and nose of a moose. * were not far from a point of the eastern main; whence, taking a long sweep to the right, and then stretching soutli and west in a broad belt of fifteen or twenty miles. It ulti- mately joins Rocky Point, at a distance of about fifty miles, measured in a direct line. To the whole of the islands in- cluded In this rt n ^e I gave the name of Simpson's Group, in token of my esteem for the Governor, Thy channel be- 'tween the western islands and the .nain Is, la some parts, not more than a quarter of a mile broad; and this contr^.ctlon is rendered the more apparent by the xipplc of S rather strong southerly current^ uol observable elsewhere. It is favour- fi OP TUB ARCTIC SEA. s:i noe» a* jtl^ sub- is were broken points, 3. But aktncss; picture r height rent, as I ragged w with" ms from majestic ir cries, ' wilder- scene* ly two lore on outline. vvlicnce^ g sou til It ulu- mileSj ands id- Groups nel he- arts, aot ctlon Is r strong fuvoun- i 11 «Me for fisli, flnd subsequently a station was formed here. On opening round the northern end of the channel, a magni- ficent expanse of water was seen east and west, witJi clear horizons, dotted, however, with tliree Islands, from the light mural clifl's of which the rays of the setting sun wore soi'tly reflected. The peninsula, dividing the waters of the south and north side of the eastern main, has been called Point Keith, in compliment to Mr. J. Keith, the Company's agent at Montreal, whose name has already beea mentioned In terms gf merited commendation. We next crossed a wide traverse towards some table hills, forming apart o'*what the Indians call Rein-deer Island, the walled sides of \ 'hich rose far above the sloping and wooded country at their \ ase; and here we landed, to examine more closely its diversi \ed formation. Either from the grinding pressure of the immense masses of ice that are forced'on this exposed coast, or from the continued action of breaking waves, the whole line of shore, for two or three miles, is composed of a kind of pudding stone; containing large and pmall stones, all more or less globular, cemented by a yellow- ish clay, which has become as hard as rock. It varies in elevation from six to forty feet, and appears to run into the adjacent rocks, which attain an altitude of from fourteen hundred to two thousand feet, with an irregularity which contrasts strongly with the flowing outline of the western main, now discernible io the distance of twelve or fifteen Biiles. Re-embarking, we made for the point of an Island, resorted to by the Indians for a particular stone, used for the making of pipes, and generally of a greenish-gray colour. On this occasion it was visited for the purpose of allowing one of them to inspect a small deposit of tobacco, which, in gome season of affluence he had concealed among the rocks. His little trcasii'-e was in safety; and, tru? ting to my supply- ■■■M ,r. ■ m. "i 'I 8i jounNKy TO TiiR suoTii;s Jug lus wants, he allowed it It) tcnnuii fop a rulm-e emer- gency, # The south-west face of tlio rock was smooth and ahiiost pcrjicndicularj and as wc boro up to the north-cast, it l),>caiTie fitill more so, extending 1o tlio extreme limit of sight, ii. ono linintcrrui)tcd mural precipice, along the base of whiciv was a succession of trap hills, '>'th similar faces, and rounded summits. I could not but rcnnark the resemblance of these last to the formations around Point J^ake, and on the coast ta the eastward of the Copper-mine, Being unable to land oil this side, we made for the north maui shore, on the declivi- ties of which some patclics of last winter's snow were yet visible. Here we disembarked; and, the tent having been pitched. La P^isc set a net, which the following morning produced a fc vhitc fish, a tvout, and, what surprised the Indians, an inconnu,* August 15.— A smart head wind with ft pitching sea did not allow us to do much with the paddles; and though we sought the lee of any thing that oifcred shelter, we were soon o])liged to lie by. Presently intcllig^ice was brought me that La Prise and an Lidian in my canoe were quarrelling hi ^a manner that foreboded a disagreeable termination. My appearance rather separated than reconciled them ; sin ic La Prise, in going apart, muttered out, "You may thank the Chief; but it is not finished: wc shall meet on the barren lands. " The weather becoming more favourable, the journey ivas continued, and we got to a narrow passage called Tal- thei-leh, or the part that docs not freeze,-— a fact verified during two successive winters, but for which we could assign no c^use. Tho right siiorc was particularly bold and impos- I *SiijHU) Maokciizli, Sop K Wla^^l^^^a''l? Appendix t» l"'i-aiililtii. 1 OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 81 ? emer- alniost , iii ono liclf was munded of these coast id fanil oil declivl- vcre yet ing been morning risetl the sea (lid ough we ere soon light mc clling in. Dn. My sin 3e La lank the le barren journey lied Tal- vcrificJ Id assign d impos- aiiUIii. Ingr it ^vas a continuation of the trap formation from Pipe- jjlone Point, with this dilfcrcnce only, that here it had the clittering light brown appearance of mica slate, and was piled, terrace upon terrace, to a height of eight hundred feet. The dip of the range was N. E. by E., with the face of the cliffs northerly. To the left, and not more than a mile from the Iraj), the rocks were principally gneiss, with hci'e and there .1 jutting mound of red granite or porphyry. A southerly current was perceptible in the narrow; though the Indian positively allirmed, that it was the reverse in winter, as the Ice was invariably packed towards the north, and not towards the south of the strait. . A few larch and pine were thinly scattered; and the general appearance presented was that of rounded hills, intersected on the one side by valleys, and on Ihe other cut off in part by the mural j)recipices of the island already mentioned, which here rose into seven consecutive ranges, producing a singular and striking effect. Another island between this and the main, consisting of a single rock» the southern face of which was broken into columnar cliffs with large rhomboidal fractures, seemed to be basaltic. The wind had fallen; Tjut a licavy swell was running from tlie clear horizon before us, and dashed against the rocks with 0 violence sufficient to swamp a fleet of canoes. The smaller of the two canoes took in much water at every pitch; and as «he leaked besides, the Indians prudently made for a small bay, where they landed, with no other damage than that of getting wet. They immediately called out to me not to per- severe, as the shore was inapproachable for many miles, and added, that several of their friends had perished in the same place, from disregarding this counsel. And, indeed, we found as we proceeded a high surf lashing the beach; and had a gale come on, which, however was not indicated by the clouds, we might have had reason to repent our obstinacy. V" ■' ''! I' 1 1 ■I .'^d jftTTHNEr TO THE «inoRT;d A hvgo piece of Ice was seen floiif Tiiu; In the dlslance, irt tlie pride of a miniature berg; a .sight which .so surpri.sed the Ca- nadian, who had been long to tl>c .soutliward, near tlie Coknu- bia, that he exclaimed, <'Cehi va bien, jious nc .sonimes pan mal avance.s au nord," and the poor fellow actually thought \vc could not l)e far from the .sea. ;r |J#'|:|. . While rounding a projecting bluiror headland, iicarwliicTi I wa.s told there was a river, our filtention was attracted li» the crest of a steep rock, where the keen eye of the Indian detected a poor bear, quietly regaling himself with a feast of berries. *'Sass! sassl"* whi.spered^he, and In a moment aJl were down to a level with the canoe, and remained motion- less, except the bowman, who persisted in malting signs per- fectly unintelligible; until at last he said, In an under tone, <'Dites-lui d'oter son bonnet rouge," meaning my servant, an honest Lancashire lad, who, not understanding a word ol* French, had never ceased to Jook at the bear, without onco thinking of his flaming red cap. *'What!" exclaimed he, as he took it off, *'will it frighten him?" The interpreter and Indian waded on shore, and crawling silently through the bushes, were soon lost to our sight. In a few minutes a couple of shots, followed by a whoop, proclaimed the fate of bruinj flnd we landed at a convenient spot to fetch the meat. While the men were absent on this errand, I strolled about and saw^ gome gooseberries and currants on the bushes, still unripe; there were also a few roses yet in bud, the colour of which was a deeper red than, that of the roses which grow more south. A brood of young ducks was likewise observed. The party at length returnedj the animal being small was slung oii the bowman's bacls; and as he had placed a Mick !il * ^asa, I)ear» ?|f <■ m OF THE Arctic; ska. 87 its inoulli to Jicep the jaws npart, ami tlien tucked the head liiuler his arm, his appearance, as he brushed through the ^vood, was ludicrous enough. The evening being far advanced, we took advantage of .1 «nug bay that completely sheltered the canoe from danger, and very soon after La Prise also arrived. He stated that after my departure he had discovered that the frost of the pre* ceding night had split the canoe in several places, which at once accounted for its leaking; and that having repaired it, he preferred the risk of coming on to the chance of being left behind. The truth was, that having no provision of their own, his party regularly was supplied from our stock, and could ill brook, therefore, even a short separation. The au- rora was brilliant, and in rapid motion until midnight, when tho wind increased so much, that we could not move from the bay. The hunters were despatched in every likely di- rection to find deer; and, though unsuccessful, wero much pleased at the iiuuiy recent tracks they had seen. '1 h By a set of ohscrvatlons made here, (he latitude was found to be 02° 15' 35" N., the longitude by chronometers was 1 1 1« 10' 52" '7 W., and the variation by Kater's compass 45° 31* K. Thermometei: at 3 p. m. 5i°, ^.CT August 17.— The nets having been setover night produced eight whitG lish and a trout, which were equally dividedj and at 4 A. m. we got away, and paddled against a cold north- east breeze. The main on one side, and a range of islands on the other, screened us, however, from its efiects, so that by breakfast time we had accom])lished asatisf;ictory distance, liaving ])assed on our way another small berg, and some |)atches of snow, which still lingered in the iissurcs and deep gullies ol* tho hills. It is always diificult tg gel at the real v^. -f^t IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1^128 |25 ,50 ^™ ^m ■^ Uii 12.2 US. 12.0 us «s I L25 114 il.6 V 7] ^> :) PhotDgraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. U580 (716) 872-4503 ft' 1. ■' 88 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES ^ meaning of an Indian, even on subjects witli whicli he has been to a certain extent acquainted all his life, and on which one might reasonably expect something like a straightforward answer. Not only the others, but even the lad who had drawn the sketch, now began to hint that the Tchlon was far away to the south and east, and that the portages between the intervening lakes were long and bad for the transport of baggage, if not altogether impracticable. The Indians, it was observed, were never encumbered with any thing heavier than their guns, and perhaps a small canoe, which was often left, in case the carrier were unable or Unwilling to take it on. From the direction, too, in which they pointed to it, I was the more confirmed in my former opinion, not only that it lay considerably to the eastward, but also that it inclined to- wards Hudson's Bay. On the other hand, one of the party confessed that he had been on the Thlew-ee-choh when he was a boy; and though, as he had gone by land, he had no exact knowledge of the route by water, still he knew that there was a river about a day's march off, leading to some lakes which would even- tually conduct us to it. His only apprehension was, whether the canoe could be conveyed in any manner over the moun- tains and falls, in our way to the iJarren Lands, where we should find the lakes to which he had alluded. "We In- dians," said he, "should not think of attempting it, but the white men are strong." On such a subject it was scarcely prudent to hazard an assertion: but as much depends on first impressions, I did not hesitate to assure him, that I had the power to surmount all such obstacles as he had described, and only required an active hunter like himself to accompany me, for which I added, he should be well remunerated; though, to say the truth, the general appearance of the coun- try, and the increasing altitude of the mountains, rendered it 1'^ OK THK ARCTIC SEA. 89 evident that no common exertion would be required to get to either of the large rivers, and in the decision to which I now finally came, I considered myself as having merely chosen the lesser evil of the two. Still, coasting along the northern shore, and a continuous link of islands to the right, we came to a place distinguished, by the Chipewyan and Yellow Knife Indians, by the em- phatic appellation of "The Mountain." Here it is their cus- tom to leave their canoes when they go to hunt the rein-deer on the Barren Lands; and few have much acquaintance with the country beyond it. Three or four of La Prise's crew, influenced by their old habits, could not bring themselves to pass the rock at which they had always landed; and separated from us here, under the plea of going to join their families. The Mountain rises gradually from the water's edge into round backed ridges of gneiss, with intervening valleys rather scantily wooded; and its various summits, consisting of a succession of mounds or elevations of smooth and naked granite, in the form of obtuse cones, rarely attain a greater height than from ten to fourteen hundred feet. The Moun- tain River is seen near its base, and precipitates itself, in a picturesque fall, over a ledge of craggy rocks, into the lake. Opposite this is the termination of the islands beginning at Tal-thel-leh ; and a line drawn from thence due south cuts a huge bluff, forming the western angle of Gah-houn-tchella, or Rabbit Point. This indented isthmus juts out in a W.N. W. direction from the eastern main, and, overlapping the immense island of Peth-the-nueh, or Owl Island, so as to make the land seem continuous, gives the appearance of a deep bay, of which, together with the island, it seems to be the boundary. In truth, however, the effect so produced is an optical illu- sion, occasioned by the distance and refraction of the objects; for although the bl-e outline appears perfectly unbroken, yet 12 90 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES 'I- '" 14' Si i*'';;i;i m "I -I ' 1: ,v! a Gah-houn-tchella was subsequently discovered to be the northern opening to a narrow strait leading into a magnifi- cent inner bay, at the south part of which we afterwards established a fishery. Still farther south than the fishery is another narrow passage, hemmed in on the west by the mu- ral precipices of Peth-the-nueh, and on the east by lofty granitic mountains. This forms the outlet to a part of the lake which is bounded by the horizon, the whole space being one sheet of water as far as Point Keith. The southern shore I have ventured to lay down, according to the dotted lines in the chart, after a patient investigation of various In- dian accounts, all of which make its distance from Peth-the- nueh rather more than I have fixed upon. Peth-the-nueh, or Owl Island, is an accumulation of trap mountains, having their least altitude at Pipe-stone Point, opposite Rein-deer Island, and their greatest, at the narrow passage south of Gah-houn-tchella. Its whole length east and west is fifty-four geographical miles, and the bread tth of the lake a little beyond Mountain River, in a line due south, may be fairly estimated at not less than thirty-nine miles. It lies between the two juain shores, somewhat nearer to the north: the rivers to the southward and eastward are of some magnitude, and are con- tinually resorted to by the Chipewyans; yet, though acquaint- ed with every rapid and turn in them, they were unable to point out or even afford a guess at their sources. The one, how- ever, with the islands at its entrance, which is laid down as running into Christie's Bay, — so called after Mr. Chief Factor Christie, of the Company's service, whose prompt and cour- teous services I have pleasure in again alluding to, — is often visited by them in the spring, for the purpose of shooting swans, with which at that season it abounds. 'i' ' Continuing our course along the haru and rocky line of the northern shore, we passed a picturesque torrent; which. OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 91 from a thread of shining silver in the distance, came gambol- ing down the steep declivities, and then mingled gently with the broad waters of the lake. Near it was the Rocky Point River, just beyond which we encamped, at the close of a beautiful day, in which the thermometer had stood at 52". August 18th. — We started at 4 a. m. under the impression that a couple of hours would certainly bring us to the river spoken of by the Indians; but at the spot where we hoped to find a river there was merely another torrent. "That is not it," said Maufelly, the Indian before spoken of, who was to be our guide; so on we went, paddling along the lake, now contracted to a width of five or six miles, and apparently terminating near a blue point in the south-east, which, how- ever, turned out to be the bend leading into a deep bay, forming the eastern portion of Great Slave Lake. As it seemed that a long circuit might be avoided, by making a portage in a favourable part, almost in a direct line before us, I was about to give directions accordingly, when launching past some rocks, which had shut out the land in their direc- tion, we opened suddenly on a small bay, at the bottom of which was seen a splendid fall, upwards of sixty feet high, rushing in two white and misty volumes into the dark gulf below. It was the object of our search — the river which we were to ascend; so, without noticing the very significant gestures of my crew, indicating the impossibility of ascend- ing it, I immediately landed, and set them about drying and thoroughly repairing the small canoc An additional blanket or two, with some other requisites, ha 'ing been set apart, all the other baggage, together with the 'arge canoe, was placed under the charge of La Prise, who u idertook to wait for and deliver them to Mr. M*Leod. The observations to-day gave the latitude 62° 50' 15 " N., longitude 109° 47' 54" W., and variation 36° 52' E. 98 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES CHAPTER IV. 4« Difficult and toilsome Ascent of Hoar Frost River.— Striking Scenery along its Course.— Illness of the Inter-jreter.- Encampment upon Cook's Lake.— Ascent of another small River full of Rapids.— De- sertion of two Indians. — Perplexity of the Guide as to the proper Course, and Attempt to Desert.— Succession of Streams and Lakes. — Indian A "count of the The-lew or Teh-Ion. — Clinton-Colden, Ayl- mer, and Sussex Lakes.— Discovery of the TTiiew-ee-choh. !■'<„- i A NEW scene now opened upon us. Instead of the gentle paddling across the level-lake, by which we had been ena- bled to penetrate thus far, we had to toil up the steep and rocky bed of an unknown stream, on our way to the high lands, from which the waters take an opposite course. The labours which had been hitherto so cheerfully undergone were little more than those to which vor/ageurs are accus- tomed; but in what was to come, it was evident that extra- ordinary efforts and patient perseverance would be required, to overcome the difficulties of our route. We now learned from the Indians that the fall, to which, after my enterpris- ing friend Beverley, the companion of Sir E. Parry in his attempt to reach the Pole, I have given the name of Bever- ley's Fall, was the commencement of a series of appalling j 1 OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 9;j cascades and rapids, which, according to llieir account, wcrr tlie distinguishing characteristics of Hoar Frost Hivor; and, indeed, some fifteen or twenty small canoes, concealed in the hushes, helonging, as was conjectured, to my old friend Akaitcho and his party, who were hunting on the Barren Lands, showed pretty clearly the obstacles we might expect to encounter. Maufelly, however, maintained that it was the only practicable route, and added, that by following its channel we should shorten the distance, and not improbably fall in with an old man who could give all the information I required about the Thiew-ee-choh. The greater part of our lading, consisting of three bags of pemmican, with a little ammunition, tobacco, &c., had been carried up the ascent the evening before; and on the morn- ing of the 1 9th of August, after emptying a net which had been set, of a few blue and white fish, the remainder was taken. The principal difficulty consisted in bearing the canoe over a slippery and uneven acclivity, thickly beset with trees and underwood. The first ridge, where we rested, was formed of sand and debris from the surrounding rocks, mostly red felspar and quartz. Having crossed a swamp, and again ascended, we got to a point above a second fall, where a little smooth pool, on which the canoe was launch- ed, afibrded a short respite to the wearied men. Here I dis- missed La Prise, who, with his two little boys, had assisted in conveying the things so far. He was intrusted with a let- ter for Mr. M'Leod, in which I directed him to begin building an establishment, as soon as he should reach the east end of the lake, which, as I calculated, could not be more than a day's march from the river; informing him at the same time that I might be expected some time in Sep- tember. N'T 94 JOURNEY' TO THK SHORES um: $■:•■ i; : ' ;'!!lt I'. ; 1 ''1 ' A few hundred yards' paddling along the pool brought us in sight of fresh clouds of spray, rising from a third and a fourth fall, too dangerous to approach; and though the woods were extremely thick, and consisted, for the greater part, of stunted swamp fir, which gave us infinite trouble to force through, still there was no alternative, and clambering over the fallen' trees, through rivulets and across swamps, as well as our burthens would permit, we at length emerged into an open space. It was barren and desolate; crag was piled upon crag, to a height of two thousand feet from the base; and the course of the contracted river, now far beneath, was marked by an uninterrupted line of foam. After frequent halts to recover breath, the summit of the difficult pass was attained; the blu.3 lake which we had left, lay as if spread at our feet; and suc'h was the beauty of the varied outline, that we were captivated into a momentary forgetfulness of our fatigue. But severe toil will tell on the frame, however resolute the will; and the interpreter, who had for several days shown symp- toms of indisposition, became now so exhausted as to be barely able to proceed. The Indians aided him by light- ening his burthen, being themselves in, high spirits, from having seen some fresh tracks of deer, which, according to their notions, indicated an early hunting season, as it proved that those ever shifting animals had begun to migrate from the north. The descent towards the river was at first gradual, for the path lay over the even though rounded surface of the rocks. But moss-covered swamps soon followed, and then a precipice so abrupt and deep, that, with no other incum- brance than my cloak and gun, it required all my vigilance and exertion to save myself from falling with the loose masses which slid away from my feet. fk.,: rf^m d -it'^^' 11 • ^:':>l i W" 1 «;,!, k irM The people with the canoe stood resolutely to their work, and after a slip or fall, recoverec' themselves with such adroit- OK THE AIICTIC SEA. 95 ght us and a woods )art, of 3 force g over as well into an :d upon and the marked halts to ttained ; »ur feet; ve were ue. But :he will; n symp- \s to be ly light- ts, from rding to t proved ate from gradual, ce of the ind then incum- igilance le loose ■ir work, Ih adroit- ness, that, after an interval of protracted anxiety, I enjoyed the satisfaction of beholding her placed safe and sound in the stream below. The course of the river could be traced N, N. E. about three miles, in which, though th(;re was evi- dently a strong current, nothing appeared to break the glas- siness of the surface. It was bounded on each side by steep shelving rocks, cheerful with vegetation, and thinly clad with birch, firs, and willows. The sun was too low, and the crew too wearied to move on; and having paddled to the other side, for the convenience of a level spot on which to pitch the tent, we gladly halted for the night. The laborious duty which had thus been satisfactorily per- formed, was rendered doubly severe by the combined attack of myriads of sand-flies and mosquitoes, which made our faces stream with blood. There is certainly no form of wretchedness, among those to which the chequered life of a voyageur is exposed, at once so great and so humiliating, as the torture inflicted by these puny blood-suckers. To avoid them is impossible: and as for defending himself, though for a time he may go on crushing by thousands, he cannot long maintain the unequal conflict; so that at last, subdued by pain and fatigue, he throws himself in despair with his face to the earth, and, half suffocated in his blanket, groans away a few hours of sleepless rest. August 20. — The thermometer had fallen to 36°, and at 4 A. M., as soon as the sunken rocks, and other impedi- ments to our progress, could be distinguished, we got away, and went on cheerily enough, until interrupted by a rapid, which was succeeded by so many more, that for the best part of the morning we did little else than lighten the canoe and drag it up with a line: at length a fall of twenty feet obliged us to carry both canoe and baggage. This passed, ir ' 96 JOUHNEV TO THE SHORES other rapids presented themselves; until finally the canoe got so seriously damaged by the shocks, as to make us hasten on shore to avoid sinking. The unhappy interpreter had been unable to take any share in the work, and was evidently suffering severe pain, which he begged of me to assuage. I had only a box of common pills, and some brandy, neither of which could be prudently applied to a case which seemed to require the skill and attention of a professional man. The poor fellow, however, persisted in his belief that I could relieve him, not doubting that any thing under the name of medicine would answer the purpose. I yielded, therefore, to his importunity, and indulged him, first with the con- tents of the box, which made him worse; and next with the contents of the buttle, which made him better. ■lip- 'if 'i III, %p,¥'i0_ Scarcely ^yas the canoe repaired, and our labour recom- menced, when we were involved in fresh troubles, by a most intricate channel of deep water, thickly studded with sharp angular rocks, sometimes so close together as barely to allow of a passage. The stream having at this part a consi- derable fall, rushed between or bubbled over them, with a force that almost swept the hauling men off their legs; and no sooner had they with great resolution surmounted this difficulty, than a fresh demand was made on their energy by the appearance of three distinct falls, rising like huge steps to the height of forty-five feet. Again, therefore, the whole matMel was to be carried, much to the annoyance of the crew, to whom, on such occasions, the sickness of any of their companions is a matter of serious importance. One or two more rapids, and a narrow fall of twenty feet, termi- nated the ascent of this turbulent and unfriendly river. Nothing, however, can be more romantically beautiful than the wild scenery of its course. High rocks beetling over the rapids like towers, or rent into the most diversified I canoe I hasten ter had ridently age. I neither seemed 1. The I could name of lerefore, the con- with the r recom- es, by a ded with barely to t a consi- with a egs; and nted this nergy by ige steps le whole le of the of any of One or t, termi- y river, tiful than ing over iversified I OF Tll£ ARCTIC SKA. 97 forms, gay with various coloured mosses, or shaded by over- hanging trees — now a tranquil pool, lying like a sheet of silver — now the dash and foam of a cataract, — these are a part only of its picturesque and striking features. The canoe having been completely repaired, we entered on a different scene. An amphitheatre of gently rising hills, interspersed with rounded and barren rocks, and a few clumps of gloomy-looking pines, rendered more conspicuous by the yellow sand on which they grew, embraced a calm sheet of water, which, taking a northerly direction, kept gradually widening to a distance of three or four miles. Some old ice still adhered to its banks, and the snow shoes and bundles affixed to the poles of a recently deserted encamp- ment) showed that it was a report of the Indians. It was too late to gain the pines, for the sun had set; so we encamped on an island where we had observed that there were shrubs enough to cook the evening meal; and had no sooner landed than we were assailed by swarms of sand- lies and mosquitos, which for a time irritated us almost to madness. I do not know that there is any thing very ori- ginal in the idea, but as I contemplated the repose and still- ness of the evening landscape, mellowed by the soft tints of the western sky, and contrasted it with the noise, the im- petuosity, the intense animation and bustle of the morning, it seemed to me a type of that best period of the life of man, when to the turbulence and energy of youth succeeds the calm sobriety of ripened age. It brought to my mind fijr distant friends, — one especially long known and well esteem- ed; in remembrance of whom I gave to the sheet of water before me the name of Cook's Lake. As the night drew on, something was perceived indistinctly 13 \ 98 JOUHNKY TO THE SHORES on the lake; it was neither a loon, nor a deer, but its cautious motions excited that sort of suspicion which made our invalid look about him. He and the three Indians with me deter- mined that it must be either a Chipcwyan thief, or the scout of a party of Slave Indians, who were at war with the Yellow Knives. As it turned out, however, neither of these conjec- tures was correct, for the object of apprehension proved to be one of those who had left us at tJc mountain, and who, having lost the only two charges of powder i;i his possession, had been driven to the necessity of performing this long journey, to obtain the means of sustaining his family until they could get to their friends. "Had there been only my wife with me," he said, in a faint voice, "I would not have troubled the chief, for we could have lived upon berries; but when I looked on my child, and heard its cries, my heart failed me, and I sought for relief." There needed no oth r appealj and having received a liberal supply of provision and ammunition, the poor fellow went away the happiest of his tribe. August 21. — Thin ice had been foi.aed during the night; though when we started, at 4 a. m., the thermometer stood at 38". A few miles northerly brought us to a river, barred by fifteen rapids, varying in height from three to ten feet. In any other situation, such a succession of interruptions would have seriously annoyed me; but I now regarded them with complacency, as the ladder by which I was to mount to the dividing ridge of land, — the attainment of that goal being all which at that late season I could hope to accomplish. 1 had in De Charloit, the bowman, one of the most expert men in the country, and in no place had his astonishing strength and activity been called more into play than on this occasion. In the midst of dangers the most imminent from or THE ARCTIC S£A. if rapids or falls, he was coo) fearless, and collected; and often, when the pole or paddle was no longer available, he would spring into the curling water, and, with a foot firmly planted, maintain his position, where others would have been swept, away in an instant. But in spite of all his care and exertion^ our frail vessel was sorely buifeted, and the bark hung Iq shreds along its sides, ripped and broken in every quarter. We were, therefore, not a little glad, when, after a diflicull portage, wc found another free and open water. .; I While the necessary patching and gumming of the cano# was going on, to render her tight, \ climbed to the toj) of 9 short range of rocks about two hundred feet high, and dipping to the eastward. From this elevation Maufelly pointed to a lake, on which he said we were to go a long way; adding, however, that, from the fact of his having been so snovv-blin«| when he last passed as to be led with a string, he did not exactly remember the channel. He requested, thereforcj permission to land at certain elevated places — one of which he recognised, and pointed out as the spot where he had for* merly killed a deer. Still this did not enlighten him as tO the precise part we should make for: and whether the two Indian boys in the canoe differed with or distrusted him, Of whether it was the mere caprice and unsteadiness of theif nature, we knew not; but certain it was, that, on landing tt a point of the shore, they began to prepare for a march, with the intention, as they said, of visiting their relations, who they thought might be somewhere to the north-west. As there was no indication of Indians within range of the tele* scope, we tried to dissuade them from their purpose, for theif services, just then, were doubly requisite in order to carry the baggage over the portages; and this the rogues well knew, but with invincible stubbornness they rejected every offer that was made. Finding they were determined, I supplied i McMASTER UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 100 JOURNEV TO THE SHORES them with a little ammunition, warning them at the same time to keep away from my fort, unless they brought with them a heavy load of good meat. * We then paddled among islands extending to a great dis- tance, with an uninterrupted horizon to the westward. It was evident that Maufelly was puzzled; for though he knew the general direction, he was so little acquainted with the form of the lake, that we constantly found ourselves either in ? bay, or pulling round an island. Not liking to be baf- fled in this way, I landed, and sent De Charloit and the In- dian to reconnoitre; and the result was, that they descried a lake in the line of our intended course. The mosquitos here tormented us dreadfully; and the steersman, for whom they had a particular affection, was so swollen that he could scarcely see. * 1 •... r At daybreak of the following day (the 22nd of August) we went to an adjoining bay, whence the canoe and baggage were carried to two small lakes. Another portage took us to an extensive sheet of water, which, however, proved to be only a branch of the lake we had left. In this, as in the other part, were many islands, composed of low rocks with shelving sides, covered more or less with reindeer-moss and large stones. Streaks of old ice were still adhering to the shore; and on some of the hills, already of a brown tint, were patches of last year's snow. A few hours brought us to the end of the lake (which has been called after the Rev. Dr. Walmsley of Hanwell;) and scouts were despatched in different quarters to find out the most favourable route to the large lake of which we were in search. A set of observations gave the latitude 63° 23' 46" N., longitude 108° 8' 16" W., and variation 36° 0' E.— a posi- ' li II ■ r OF THE ARCTir SKA. 101 tion a little to the north of the Cheesadavvd Lake of Ilearne; though, from the con''jrrent testimony of the Indians, it would seem that the only one bearing the name is situated between the Athabasca and Great Slave Lakes. Towards evening the men returned; and about the same time, one of the Indian lads, who for some trifling cause had separated from his companion, an^ was now willing to join us again. The former had succeeded in finding a chain of small lakes, inclining to the eastward, and had the good for- tune to shoot a young deer: the latter was unceremoniously dismissed with directions to inform his tribe, that those who were desirous of profiting by the expedition must pursue a steady and honest course of conduct, and, according to their own phraseology, abstain from "speaking with two tongues;" for by that means alone could they entitle themselves to any benefit. He was refused even a particle of provision, — a ri- gour which I felt assured would be made known, and pro- duce a wholesome effect upon the whole tribe; for, though fickle and ungrateful, they arc yet right-minded enough to know, and candid enough to acknowledge, their errors. In the present instance, the lad smiled as he went away, and observed, that "it was just, for he did not deserve better treatment." August 23. — The operation of carrying began with the first dawn of day; and, though tormented by the mosquitos from the time that the sun began to have any power, and drenched with hail and rain as soon as it declined, yet we managed to get over fifteen portages before night compelled us to encamp. • N., posi- August 24. — The thermometer fell to 32°, and a cold sheet of vapour rose from innumerable watercourses, which dis- V i'1ir:t ■t. , 102 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES Hi.': ■ l!'|-i persing as the sun appeared above the gray cloud that walled the horizon in the east, allowed us to resume our tedious oc- cupation. A succession of lui. s and portages took us to a small stream, which I was glad to observe ran easterly; and at its termination, in an open space of water, I saw some sand hills about north-west, which led me to conclude that we could not be far off the height of land. The bark of the canoe, however, had been split by the frost, and a short delay was necessary to repair it. This completed, we began to make a traverse to gain some hills, whose eastern sides, as Maufelly asserted, were washed by the large lake; but a question now arose, as to the probability of a passage along the base of the sand hills to the westward; since, according to my sight, a wide opening seemed to stretch from thence far to the right, which, I cannot help still thinking, was con- nected with the other large sheet of water. Be this as it may, the Indian put his veto on the proposition; and accordingly the blue hills were reached, a long portage made, and I had the satisfaction at last of looking on a wide clear expanse of water to the southward, bounded only by the horizon. — The latitude was 63° 23' 57" N. We now crossed to a jutting bluff point, apparently a con- tinuation of the opposite shore, but which was stated to be the northern sweep of a bay, the receptacle of a rapid river, which Maufelly said we must ascend. It lay precisely in a straight line with a very distant column of smoke, to which our Indian wished to go, under the plausible pretence of pro- curing informaj;ion; declaring at the same time, his entire ignorance of any water communication beyond the one we were in. This conduct I thought it right to resent, and with a seasonable severity of manner gave him to understand that artifice and duplicity were not likely to succeed with me at any time, much less at the present moment, when, from his J 11'' ■ ' i OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 1U3 own admission, he had been at another lake, and stood con- victed therefore of falsehood. I told him, that what he really- wanted was to desert; that if so, his lands were before him; but that by so doing he would forfeit all claim to whatever benefits I might otherwise have conferred upon him. The effect was instantaneous; he confessed that he had done wrong, and promised fidelity for the future, begging that I would not be displeased, if, from want of memory on his part, we some- times missed our way; for that it was a long time since he was a boy, and from that early period he had never been beyond the land before us. The banks of the stream consisted most- ly of sand, heaped here r-nd there into mounds, the comfort- able retreat of many siflieuj or ground squirrels, some of whose company were basking in the sun, or sitting up in curious gaze at each other: on seeing us, they disappeared. Four rapids, having an aggregate fall of from sixteen to twenty feet, were the only obstacles to the navigation of the river, and by five o'clock we had got up them all, and open- ed on a magnificent lake. Close by, a reindeer appeared, running at full speed, chn^^ed by a long white wolf, which, though it seemed to have little chance in swiftness, was never- theless resolute in the pursuit. The deer gradually made for a pass below the rapid, at the other side of which another wolf was now first perceived, crouching down, with his eyes fixed on the chase, and evidently ready to spring upon the poor animal, if it unhappily took the water. i: I have a strong an apathy to wolves, however speciously attired; and though these fair-robed gentlemen were but fol- lowing a natural instinct of appetite, I thought fit to interfere with voice and gesture. The panting deer bounded past me, as if conscious of safety and protection, while the wolf stood 104 JOURNEr TO TUE SHOR£i> motionless for a moment, and then, scenting an enemy, slunk slowly away, under the shelter of some fragments of rocks. The country near the margin, and, indeed, for several miles from the lake, was very low and level, being only oc- casionally elevated into moderately-sized hills. By one of these, to the eastward, lay the route to the The-lew.* As we were certain to return by this place, I took advantage of a detached heap of stones, in the shape of an island, to make a cache of a bag of pemmican ; soon after which we encamped, where there was some good moss for cooking — a considera- tion of no trifling importance on the barren lands. The white partridges kept up a burring call until near mid- night; and when this had ceased, my rest was repeatedly in- terrupted by the startling and fiendish screams of a score of the largest sized loons; so that I was not sorry when the morning of the 25th of August afforded light enough for es- caping from their harsh and grating notes. I.J' m.:. ■ \ if As we proceeded, the land on each side swelled insensibly into a different character, attaining an elevation of one hun- dred and seventy or one hundred and ninety feet, with rounded summits, partially covered with rich lichens, and strewed with huge boulders, closely resembling those round Point Lake. The valleys afforded a luxurious pasturage, and were tenanted by a few scattered deer. A weak current was found to oppose us; and having passed through a narrow, which produced a ripple hav- ing something of the character of a rapid, we managed to get embayed. Maufelly was fairly lost; and after trying * Sometimes called Tch-lon. :^5 m- OF TIIK ARCTIC SUA. 105 ineflfectually half a dozen openings, I returned to the current, which became imperceptible as the land fell off; but, taking the general direction of the last river and this stream as a guide, I directed the course to a distant northerly hill, which, luckily enough, happened to be the western point of another narrow, well known to the Yellow Knives as a favourite deer- pass, and which was, in fact, the only passage for the water. A "band"* of deer was swimming across at the moment The face of the country was extremely barren and forbidding. When afterwards we encamped, not a shrub could be found; and the moss being wet, it required some ingenuity to make a fire: ultimately, however, it was effected, by building two parallel walls, within which the moss was placed, and fanned into flame by the draft rushing between. This simple no- tion was the means of saving us much trouble afterwards. The pass led us to an immense lake, from which land could be faintly distinguished to the north, while east and west it was indented with deep inlets and bays. One of these, to the right, presenting a clear horizon, led, as Maufelly believ- ed, to the The-lew. Subsequently, several Indians, who had been there, in- formed me that, by making a portage from the eastern ex- tremity of a deep bay, they got to a small lake, and from thence by another portage to a larger one; that this discharg- ed itself by a river into the north-east end of a very long but narrow lake, the southern termination of which was about half way between that point and Slave Lake. To the east, they said it was connected, by a short line of rapids, with a lake of singular shape, which, by means of a river seventeen mMes long, communicated with the The-lew, at a mean dis- tance from our position of about eighty miles. As to the ! * Any number above tix. 14 106 JOUHNKV TO TUK SHORES t>i - course of the principal river itself, little seemed to be accu- rately known; for the Indians never penetrated far, perhaps not more than twenty miles, beyond the part which has been just described. There it was said to maintain " uniform di- rection towards the north-east. tN, Dim til !l -J !/ M Proceeding by the western shore of the lake which we had entered, we cut across from point to point, coasting by islands so extensive, that we not unfrequently mistook them for the main. The water was of a dark indigo colour, but very clear; and the occasional and almost noiseless rising of a fish at a water-fly was the only sound which broke the stillness and serenity around. Whether it were owing to continued calms, or to the limited time during which this lake is liberated from its icy fetters, I am not prepared to say; but certain it is, that I no where observed those successive banks, or layers of sand, along the beach, so common in the lakes to the south- ward,— the joint effect of the action of the waves and of the rise and fall of the water. Neither were there any of those horizontal lines on the base of the rocks, which force them- selves on the notice of tlie traveller in other parts of this country, and which indicate, with the nicest precision, the fluctuations of the level at different seasons. Being some- ! what bewildered among the numerous bays and islands, our '' Indian, from time to time, ascended the elevated ground, with a view of guessing at the best route; and on this occa- I sion he considered that, to avoid making detours, equally unprofitable and vexatious, we ought to keep more to the northward. He began now also to remark that many win- ters had glided away since he had visited the Thlew-ee-choh, as a boy, with his old father; but that he remembered his saying that there were numerous sand-hills in its vicinity; and he felt some confidence now, that we should, sooner or later, find it. What most comforted him, however, was a OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 107 newly entertained idea that we should not (as he had hither- to dreaded) be cauglit by tiie setting- in of winter, before the object was accomplished. For a considerable time past, a dazzling whiteness, which did not seem like the ordinary effect of the sunlight, had been visible on the western horizon; and, as we neared it, 1 had the mortification to behold a well-defined stream of ice, decayed, indeed, but compact enough to have brought up the largest ship in his Majesty's navy. There needed no stronger proof to convince me of the tardy disruption of this wintry barrier, and, by consequence, of the faint chance that existed of my being able to prosecute the journey by open water during the early part of the summer. The intimation, how- ever, was not without its use; it prepared me to expect other obstacles, and occasioned the methodising of various plans, by which the ex'^cution of that part of the service was at last successfully completed. Having paddled along the edge of the stream of ice, we made for a remarkable mountainous bluff to the north-east, between which and some other high land was a passage lead- ing north. But the sun had set; and, after a hard day's work, my weary crew were happy to encamp, notwithstanding the vigorous and unintermitting assaults of our faithful tor- meiitors, the sand-flies and mosquitos. Certainly they were pests, and sharply did they convey to us the moral lesson of man's helplessness; since, with all our boasted strength and skill, we were unable to repel these feeble atoms of the creation. ..-I August 26th. — The temperature had fallen to 31", and coated the lake, for a few hundred yards from the shore, with a thin sheet of ice; while the calm surface of the open 4 108 JOrnNEY TO THE SHORES water was literally black with dead flies. Slight as the im- pediment was, it required the utmost caution on the part of the bowman to open a lane,' by brc.ikine; the ice on each side, so as to allow the cnnoe to pass without touching; for the bark being rendered brittle by the overnight's frost, the least concussion would have produced serious conse- quences— to prevent which, pieces of leather, &.c., were placed over the sides as fenders. The mountainous appear- ance of the country to the northward by no means answered to the character of the part of which we were in search, and greatly diminished the hopes that Maufelly had nourished of finding a portage to the Thlew-ee-choh in that direction. We therefore veered to the westward; and, after paddling from fifteen to twenty miles, without descrying the faintest symptom of a sand-hill, we ascended a lofty hill, and, after considerable embarrassment, during which I was careful to encourage him, the Indian pointed to the south-east. Arriv- ing at another point, he again directed us west, through a kind of strait, where there was an island, consisting of one conical mount, about two hundred feet high. Some sand was visible round and near its apex, and it was distinguished, as I afterwards learnt, by the name of the Sand-Hill. ii;'''^ '1) i 'I' B/ '1 V m. ■m From its summit we were surprised to behold another im- mense lake, extending with a clear horizon to the south- west, and abounding in large islands, and in bays from ten to fifteen miles deep. How far it might be across, could not be conjectured, the apparent boundary on the other side being but dimly marked by narrow dark lines, which the Indian assured me were only islands. Resuming our journey, we passed through the upper end of the strait, in which the cur- rent set to the southward; and, having gone half round the compass, and passed an extensive opening to the right, we directed our course to the westward. 4 OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 109 The wavering uncertainty of Maufelly intlnrcd me to ab- stain from any remarks on the time lost in rounding bays to look for some near cut, which he had never seen, but which he persisted in thinking must exist. Any opposition, I well knew, would only produce a sulky obstinacy, and put an end to all effective co-opcation. I therefore left him to follow his own plans, contiuuig in that instinct which will guide an Indian through the mazes of the darkest and most tangled forest. The view to the southward and westward might well be called that of an inland sea; for, with the exception of a dark spot here and there, the range was bounded by an hori- zon of sky and water, now gilded with the brilliant rays of a setting sun. Holding more to the north, we threaded some bleak and picturesque islands, apparently of gneiss; for all were round and naked rocks, with little or no vegetation, and rose ab- ruptly from the water's edge to a height varying from eighty to a hundred and twenty feet. Near the spot where we en- camped was one considerably higher, with huge boulders on its obtuse and irregular outline, which bore an exact resem- blance to the scenery about Fort Enterprise. The shelving and moss-covered mainland, with isolated rocks in situ, formed a pleasing contrast to the bold fronting of the neighbouring islands. The beach where the tent was pitched was of a shingly gravel, composed of minute and rounded fragments of mica slate, quarts with scales of glit- tering micd, and red and gray felspar. A few geese, one gull, and many loons were seen; and mosquitos, like the fourth plague,* swarmed innumerable, and banished comfort. When the cool air of night had benumbed them, and afforded I iff *Swarms of flies— Exodus. no JOURNEY TO THE SHORES ri^ >1 l|..: :r.,.; 5!- ':! !l't B- i™ .j-^ .1;^^ JmS me a respite for contemplation, I could not help feeling deep- ly impressed with the intense stillness of the scene: no living thing was seen or heard; the air was calm, the lake unruffled: it seemed as if nature had fallen into a trance, for all was silent and motionless as death. Our little canoe was afloat at 4 a.m. of the 27th of August; and the men, excited hy the keen air of the morning to vi- gorous action, impelled her through the calm water with un- usual swiftness. Several deep bays were traversed and points rounded, until at last we had the satisfaction of seeing some sand-hiJls, which, as we drew near, Maufelly thought he recognised. Twice he went to adjacent heights to disco- ver some object, which might remove his doubts; and the second time he returned with a light stfep, and a countenance betokening satisfaction and triumph. With renewed confi- dence he pointed to a bay from whence we might go to the Thlew-ee-choh, and, on our landing, turned to the interpre- ter, and showing him the well-beaten tracks of the deer, ex- claimed, with a smile, that his old father loved to dwell on the feats he had performed there; "and though," added he, **I was but a child when I accompanied him, these places look familiar to me." The two large lakes by which we had come were only separated by the strait of the Sand-Hill; and, considering the first as extending from that strait, not to the river, but merely to the first narrow t6 the south, it will embrace a direct dis- tance of twenty-nine miles, and an estimated breadth, east and west, of nearly thirty. This I have named Ciinton- Colden Lake, as a mark of respect to the memory of those distinguished individuals. The second, or northern one, is, according to the concur- I »!•■ Till: AKL'IIC SKA. Ill ex- rent testimony of the Indians, about sixty miles in extent towards the north-west, with a breadth not exceeding thirty, nor less than twenty miles. The eastern shores are broken into bays, deep and indelinahle; tlie rest was bounded by the horizon. This splendid sheet of water received the appella- tion of Lake Aylmtr, in iionour of tlie Governor-General of Canada, to whose kindness and consideration I felt myself particularly indebted. While employed in putting the canoe in a suitable place, between two small hillocks, to dry, a deer was seen coming at full speed towards us. The Indian and De Charloit started 'at the same moment to cut it off. The trial was well con- tested; but the latter was more active than his opponent; and, concealing himself behind a stone, watched his opportunity, and killed it at the first shot. After making a hasty repast, I sent the three men with Maufeily to look for the river, or the lake whence it was supposed to take its rise. They were provisioned for three days; and, in the event of any doubt arising on the part of the Indian, the bow and steersmen were to proceed in a due northern, and the Indian and inter- preter in a north-western, direction, which, I concluded, would take them within sight of their object. The observations made here gave the latitude 64° 24' 13" N., longitude, 108° 28' 53" W. ; variation, 36° 36' E.* As the sun declined, some dark clouds rose from the westward, and spread rapidly over the sky, threatening to break up the long calm which wc had enjoyed across the two lakes. Be- fore I could reach the tent, indeed, the storm burst with such violence, as almost to carry it away; and but for the support which, on my arrival, I lent to the poles, it would assuredly •"For dip, see Appendix. 112 JOUUNUY TO Till:: SllOKKS have gone. The canoe was wliirled over and over, and was at last arrested by a rock, iVIalley's cooking apparatus was thrown right and left; while my sextant and instruments, scattered about the tent, reminded me most forcibly of j)oor Hearne's misfortune on a similar occasion. Happily, I saved them by throwing my cloak over tliem, and tlien ag^in prop- ped up the tent, until the squall was over. '^ August 28th. — I went along a range of sand-hills with my glass, but could see nothing of the men. The country was formed of gently undulating hills, whose surfaces were co- vered with large fragments of rocks, and a coarse gravelly soil, which afforded nutriment to some miserable dwarf birch. The tea plant, crow, and cranberry shrubs also grew there, but were entirely unproductive. In the swamps, oc- cupy i?, j every valley, the plant of the whortleberry was oc- casionally found, but, as in the former case, without fruit. ■'i ■ i"! A chain of sand-hills, embracing two-thirds of a small lake with a pretty rocky island in its centre, stretched from the eastward, and, gradually rising to different heights, suddenly terminated in abrupt cliffsi; whence renewing the line again at the base, it extended to within a couple of miles of our encampment. Thence, separated only by a narrow stream which flowed from the lake, the land ascended by a shelving hill to a continuation of the chain; a tongue of white sand spotted with Arbutus (sac tl commis,*) which jutted out to the southward, completed, with the hill on which we had taken our position, the girdle of a bay, the waters of which emptied themselves by a narrow channel to the north-west. To the north, as well as west, were other hills, detached from the chain, of a rocky mossy character about the declivities, '^^ V.'* ■'■:( *iSo called by the traders. ^^ »!«j: or THIC AHCTIC SUA. 119 but ending in rounded cones of sand, from one hundred and fifty to five or six hundred feet high. Many ravines and dry watercourses intersected the hills; and in one I saw a nuisk ox, which contrived to get away from me. The deer must have been, at some time, exceedingly numerous; for the faco of the ground for several miles was beaten down by them. August 29th. — becoming anxious about the men, I took my gun, and, following a N. X, W, direction, went out to look for them. Having passed a small sheet of water, be- tween the rivulet, or channel, previously mentioned, and Lake Aylmer, I ascended a hill, from the top of which I dis- cerned, to my great dejight, a rapid, evidently connected with the stream which flowed through the narrow channel from the lake. With a quickened step I proceeded to trace its course, and, in doing so, was further gratified at being ' obliged to wade through the sedgy waters of springs. Cross- ing two rivulets, whose lively ripples ran due north into the rapid, the thought occurred to me, that these feeders might be tributaries to the Thlew-ee-choh; and, yielding to that pleasing emotion, which discoverers, in the first bound of their transport, may be pardoned for indulging, I threw my- self down on the bank, and drank a hearty draught of the limpid water. From a height a mile forward, the line of stream could be distinctly traced into an open space, which, as it contracted, inclined to the north; and this, with the ap» pearance of two plovers, exactly resembling the noisy plover [Charadrius vociferus) about Fort Enterprise, convinced me that I stood on part of the continuous height of land which extends hither from the borders of the Copper Mine River. The men not making their appearance, I raised a dense smoke, by firing the moss, to apprise them of my situation j and returned to the tent, passing, on my way, a white wolf, which was sneaking towards a deer. A smoke seen to rise 15 t !l 114 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES ms- from behind the sand-hills announced, shortly afterwards, the approach of the men; and at a late hour, the Indian first, and afterwards the others, came in. De Charloit groaned under the weight of a musk-ox's head and horns, while his compa- nions were more usefully laden with the spoils of some good fat deer. They had fallen on the river the second day, and described it as being large enough for boats. Returning along its banks by a wide lake, and two tributary streams as large as itself, they ascertained that it was really the same stream, the source of which I had thus accidentally discovered in the Sand-hill Lake close to us; which was now distinguished by the name of Sussex Lake, after His Royal Highness the Vice- Patron of the expedition. I had reserved a little grog for this occasion, and need hardly say with what cheerfulness it was shared among the crew, whose welcome tidings had verified the notion of Dr. Richardson and myself, and thus placed beyond doubt the existence of the Thlew-ee-choh. I Ifl, \\-h¥i OF THE AKCTIC SEA. 115 CHAPTER V. Digression concerning Hearne's Route. • The route of the celebrated Hearne intersected the country which has been just described; and there is no person inte- rested in geographical reseixrch who will not thank me for in- terrupting for a moment the course of my narrative, in order' to introduce the following observations on that traveller's geographical discoveries, for which I am indebted to Dr. Richardson. "The adventurous journey of Hearne excited very great public interest at the time it was made, and will always form an epoch in the annals of northern discovery; for it gave the first authentic information of a sea bounding America to the northward, and also overthrew the numerous vague reports that existed of straits connecting the Atlantic and Pacific in parallels soutli of that to which he attained. Indeed, the high latitude assigned to the mouth of the Coppermine River was so adverse to the opinions previous- ly entertained by the advocates for the prosecution of a north-west passage, that Dalrymple was induced closely to examine the courses and distances recorded in Hearne's 116 JOUllNEY TO THE SHORES M 'U .]* Journal, whereby he discovered so great a discrepancy be- tween the outward and homeward journeys as caused him to reject the higher latitudes altogether, or greatly to reduce them; and, in doing so, he was undoubtedly right, though Hearne complains bitterly in his preface of the injustice done to him. The fact is, that, when we consider the hardships which Hearne had to endure, the difiicult circumstances in which he was frequently placed, the utter insufficiency of his old and cumbrous Elton's quadrant as an instrument for as- certaining the latitude, particularly in the winter, with a low meridian sun, and a refraction of the atmosphere greatly beyond what it was supposed to be by the best observers of the period, and the want of any means of estimating the longitude, except by dead reckoning; this reckoning requiring an exact appreciation of distances, as well as correct courses, circumstances evidently unattainable by one accompanying an Indian horde in a devious march through a wooded and mountainous country; we shall not be inclined to view with severity the errors committed, but rather to think that the traveller's credit would have been strengthened and not im- paired by his acknowledging the uncertainty of the position of the places most distant from Churchill. Unfortunately, however, Hearne himself thought differently; and in his published narrative, which did not appear until twenty years after the completion of his journey, he attempts to establish the correctness of his latitudes by various unfounded asser- tions; one of which it will be sufficient to notice here. He states that on the 21st of July, "though the sun's declination was then but 21°, yet it was certainly some height above the horizon at midnight, at the mouth of the Coppermine River. " Now it so happens, that Sir John Franklin encamp- ed at that very place on the 19th of the same month, when the sun set at ^Hhirty jniniite.s after eleven, apparent time.'' Dalrymple has also remarked, that Hearne, subsequent to \ i OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 117 » 11 tely, his me. jnt to his celebrated journey, committed a great error in estimating the distance to Cumberland House, and therefore questioned his general correctness; and this conclusion js parried only by Hearne's giving up his longitudes as not being corrected by observations, but continuing to support the truth of his latitudes. We shall, however, show, tliat his error in these was still greater than in his longitudes; his observations, if any were actually made, having miserably deceived him. But we should greatly mistake, if the detection of various instances of disingenuousness led us to consider him as en- tirely unworthy of credit, and to deny the reality of his journey. We had an opportunity, on Sir John Franklin's first expedition, of conversing with several old men who had belonged to the jiarty of Copper Indians that met Hearne at Congecathevvachaga. The leading facts of his journey are still current subjects of tradition among that tribe, as well as with the Northern Indians; and from all that we have been able to collect in the fur countries, as well as from an atten- tive examination of his narrative, we are led to conclude that he visited the various places marked in his map, in the order in which they stand; that all the rivers and lakes which he names actually exist; and that he has correctly described the general physical features of the country he traversed. His description of the lowerpart of Coppermine River, in parti- cular, is evidently that of one who had been on the spot. Hearne's original journal was very meagre, but, in common with all the residents in the fur countries, he seems to have had an excellent memory, and to have trusted much to it. By its aid, accordingly, and with the co-operation of Dr. Douglass, who edited his work, he has given an exceedingly interesting account of his travels and sufferings, together with very correct and important details of the habits of the various animals he was acquainted with. His printed work does not, however, quote his courses and distances so fully « ii i !? i 118 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES as his original journal, (a copy of which we saw at Hud- son's Bay;) the animadversions of Dalrymple having appa- rently caused him to leave several important gaps in the enu- meration of his daily journies hoth outward and homeward, *'It is matter of some consequence in the geographical de- lineation of the country, to obtain the true route followed by Hearne; and notwithstanding the diiliculties in the way of doing so, originating in the above-mentioned causes, Sir John Franklin's first journey supplies us with data for the correction of part of his course, and Captain Back's researches enable us to bring another portion nearer to the truth. From the former we obtain the correct position of the mouth of the Coppermine River, of Congecathewachaga, 'of Point Lake, and of the mouth of Slave River, by which we can readily ascertain all the western part of Hearne's route, the princi- pal errors of which are shown by the following table: — Mh : ffi;.; '■' ; P''^-^''' m'^^ Coppermine River. Lat. Long. Congecathewachaga. Lat. Long. Hearne 71° 55' 120° 30' 68° 46' 118° 15' Franklin 67° 48' 115° 37' 66° 14' 111° 26' 40 07' 40 53' 2° 32' 6° 49' Point Lake. Slave River Lat. Long. Laf. Long. Hearne 65° 45' 119° 00' 60° ■48' 123° 55' Franklin 65° 00' 112° 16' fijo 30' 113° 24' 0° 45' 6° 44' 0° 42' 10° 31' 9f; "It will be at once perceived, that while Hearne's latitude , is too great at his most northern point, by upwards of four de- II,- "SJl OF THB AHCTIC SEA. 119 kitude )ur de- grees, it is too little by three quarters of a degree at Slave River; and iiere is also a great error in the course, for the mouth of the Slave River is actually two degrees to the east- ward of that of the Coppermine, and not to the westward, as laid down in Hearnc's map. This appears to have originated principally in his not having attended to the variation of the magnetic needle; though at the date of his journey it must have exceeded two points easterly on the Coppermine; and to give the correct course and distance between the latter place and Congecathcwachaga, that amount of vari;' i is re- quired to be applied to Hearnc's courses, while his distances are diminished to one half, A large reduction of the length of his marches, though not always quite to this extent, must be made during his whole journey. When travelling with the Indians, their wives and children, during the winter, and when it was necessary to hunt for subsistence, he averages ^ the daily distances made good at ten, and even fourteen, or twenty miles. Now in our journies with the Indians, under similar circumstances, we found that they seldom moved the camp above six miles in one day, more frequently travelling only four, and scarcely ever exceeding eight, excluding the windings of the route. The power of estimating the distance walked over can be acquired only by practice, in conjunction with the daily correction of errors by celestial observations, — allowance being, of course, made for the easy or difficult nature of the country; but Hearne, as we have seen, was de- prived of every means of correction; and having once started with an inaccurate notion of the length of a mile, he carried the error with him to the end of the journey. In correcting his map, therefore, it is necessary to diminish the size of the lakes in an equal, if not in a greater degree than the distances. Upon these principles we have ventured to fix the following points of Hearne's route, taking, for convenience, his home- ward one. ■ml 4 . ..t-.. -^-As*.- — - 180 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES "He appears to have fallen on the Coppermine River first at the Sandstone rapids of Franklin, and to have traced it to Bloody Fall; but, as contrary to his usual practice, he under- rates the distance from thence to the coast, we arc led to con- clude that he did not actually go down to the sea, but was content to view it from the top of the hill which overhangs the falls; and, indeed, it is not very probable that he could have induced the Indians, over whom he had little influence, to accompany him on his survey, after they had completed the massacre which was the object of their long and laborious journey; nor, had he gone actually to the mouth of the river, would he have mentioned marks of a tide fourteen feet high. ' y i: «!»iW \i-fM if' i y < 'Buffalo or Musk-ox Lake, which he passed in going and returning, ought to be known by the latter name exclusively, as it is not frequented by the buffalo or bison. Cogead Lake is the Cont-woy-to, or Rum Lake, of Franklin; and its wa- > ters, agreeably to Indian information obtained by Captain Back, flow by Congecathewachaga into the Thlew-ee-choh.; in which case, the Anatessy, or Cree River, as it is named by Franklin, is from its size to be considered as the main branch of the Thlew-ee-choh. The true distance from Con- gecathewachaga to Point Lake is 78 miles, though by Hearne's map it is 150. At one time, we were inclined to. doubt the identity of Franklin's Point Lake with the one so . named by Hearne, but we now consider them to be the same; and, indeed, the small scrubby woods, which Hearne men- tions as existing on its banks, were seen by us, this being an advantage possessed, perhaps, by no other lake so far to the eastward, and in so high a latitude. Thaye-chuck-gyed, or large Whitestone Lake, lies a short way to the northward of Point Lake, and its waters most probably fall into that arm of Point Lake which Franklin's party crossed on the OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 121 by 23d of September, 1821. No-name Lake is evidently Pro- vidence Lake of Franklin. Ilearne crossed Slave Lake by the usual Indian route, through the Reindeer Islands to Stony Point, and the Riviere a Jean, a branch of Slave River; but his map is inaccurate here, and does not agree with his text. The next place, whose position it is very desirable to ascertain, is Thelew-ey-aze-yeth, or Little Fish Hill; and we may be assisted in doing this by our knowledge of three fixed points,'viz. the mouth of Slave River, the edge of the woods to the northward, and Churchill Fort. The northern termination of the woods inclines from the east side of Great Bear Lake considerably to the southward, as it runs to the eastward, passing Fort Enterprise in 64^°, Artillery Lake in 63j°, and continuing nearly in the same direction until it approaches Hudson's Bay. Hearne makes it 63° 45' in the longitude he assigns to Thelew-ey-aze-yeth, but we shall not probably be far from the truth, if we consider it as in 63;^°. Now li we reduce the distance of one hundred and fifty miles, at which he places Thelew-ey-aze-yeth south of the barren grounds, to between eighty and ninety miles, and al- low 27° of variation on his route, we obtain 61° 55' for the latitude of that place, which is forty miles north of the position he assign? to it on his map.* By a proportionate reduction of the distance between Slave River and Thelew-ey-aze-yeth, and f:om the latter to Churchill, we fix the required longi- tude at 106°. The position of Thelew-ey-aze-yeth is impor- tant as forming the junction of three branches of Hearne's route; and if we have correctly established it, that traveller must have passed over or near Artillery Lake in his journey northwards, which is probably his Pee-shew, or Cat Lake. The Thlew-ee-choh, which ho crossed about midway between * As this reduction applies only to one of the branches of Hearne's route, it would be safer for the present to let this place keep the lati- tude he gives to it, viz. 61° 15' N. 16 %. <■ I ■•-■ » . ■ I 189 JUUKNJCY TO THK SHOHIJS that lake and Congecathewachaga, is evidently not the branch of that river which originates in Sussex Lake, but a stream which flows in from the northward, most likely into the Anatessy branch. U,i.: i(j Ifl .'^ 'i ^ik '- * 1l ''"•:'! tuB'llVmh'iii' .: "The course of Thelew-ey-aze, or Little Fish River, is a matter of considerable interest, but we can derive no posi- tive information respecting its debouchure, from Hearne's map. If he calculated his distances on the same scale in his first journey as he did afterwards, which is likely, even though he had the assistance of a better instrument on that occasion, the chain of lakes which he lays down as far to the northward as Chesterfield's Inlet, will reach but little beyond Knap's Bay, and the nature of the country can be considered as known only up to that parallel. He indicates a Little Fish River as existing at no great distance from Hudson's Bay, and says that it is three-quarters of a mile wide, which, as he estimates distances, may be about five hundred and seventy yards; but it can scarcely be the river of the same name that originates so far to the Avestward. If the latter issues in Chesterfield inlet, it may hereafter afford a very desirable route to Great Slave Lake. Its origin is i-t no great distance from the Lake of the Hills, as the traders travel to it from the establishment of the Fond du Lac in four days. It is known to them by the names of Riviere Noire and Thlewndiaza. "In conclusion we would remark, that the names given by Hearne to the various lakes which he saw, are derived some- times from the Cree language, at other times from the north- ern Indian; and that his mode of writing the latter is differ- ent from that which we found to be the best adapted to the pronunciation of the Copper Indians. He spells the term for lake whole, while it is written lo in Captain Franklin's OK THE ARCTIC SEA. 123 IS a narrative; and the epitliet translated 'great' is spelt chuck, whereas to us it sounded more like cho or choh. Tliere are likewise some evident mistakes in the names, and English is occasionally employed in the text, while the map gives only Indian, or vice versd. An instance of error originating in this practice occurs in Hearnc's hook, which shows that t'io author was not always at the editor's elbow. In page lf'2, Peeshew Lake is supposed to be the same with Partridge Lake. Now Peeshew is the Cree name for lynx or cat, and the lake in question is accordingly marked on the map as Cat Lake; being, as we suppose, the same with Captain Back's Artillery Lake. Thoy-noy-kycd Lake, wnich Hearne draws correctly enough in his original map, as discharging its waters into Slave Lake, is the Lakes Aylmer and Clinton-Colden of Captain Back. Tha-na-koie, as the latter writes it, means 'Sand-hill Mount,' and is the name given to the narrows be- tween these two lakes. Hearne places this spot a degree and a half too far north, and seven degrees and a half too far west." *v ,iv 194 JOURNEV TO THE SHORES CHAPTER VI. l^: u Continue ottr Process.— Rocks on the Thlew-ee-choh.— Island of sin- gular Appearance.— Musk-Ox Lake.— Conjectures on the Course of the Thlew-ee-choh.—Iry River.— Appearance of two Indians.— Mau- felly permitted to visit his Wife.— Consummate skill of De Char- Ibit.— Dwarf Pines.— Story of the Rat ami the Beaver.— Unfitness of the Trees for Planks.— Artillery Lake.— Force of the Rapids.— Accident in our Passage. — Leave the Ah-hel-dessy.—A Bear killed. —Ridiculous Story.— Marchresumed.— Desolate Scenery.— A Deer shot.— Tormented by Sand-flies.— Anecdote of Sir John Franklin. —Meeting with Mr. M'Leod, by an unexpected Route. August 30. — Squalls and heavy rain prevailed most part of the night; and the morning was so extremely foggy and raw, that nothing could be done towards repairing the canoe, which, to my regret, was found to be much more damaged then I had supposed. Three or four hundred deer came within half shot, but soon disappeared on discovering Iheir mistake. Almost immediately afterwards a flock of geese flew close past, on their way to the south; which circum- stance Maufelly considered to be an indication of the break- ing up of the season. OP THE ARCTIC SEA. I 2ri At noon the weather cleared, the ciuioe was put in order, and huving made a cache ol" tl»e spare l)a 132 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES !i' '■ : I'k >' grateful to llic bountiful Giver, as more favouretl mortals amid their boasted refinements. The eastern shore, though dimmed by a blue mist or haze, was occasionally visible, and the country bcTjan to assume a more wooded and inhabitable look. When wo got to a long and rounded mound, about half a mile from the western side, I observed that both the Indians assumed a look of supersti- t^ou^ we, and maintained a determined silence. I inquired the ison uf this reverential demeanour; when Maufelly, after ome hesitation, with a face of great seriousness, in- formed us, that the small island we were passing was called t\\e Rat's Lodge, from an enormous musk rat which once inhabited it. **But what you see there," said he, pointing to a rock on the opposite shore, with a conical summit, "that is the Beaver's Lodge; and lucky shall we be if we are not visited with a gale of wind, or something worse. The chief would perhaps laugh at the story which our old men tell, and we believe, about that spot." He then proceeded to narrate, with great earnestness and solemnity of manner, a traditionary tale, which, as illustrative of Indian notions, may not be un- interesting to the reader. It was in substance as I'ollows: "In that lodge there dwelt, in ancient times, a beaver as large as a buffalo; and, as it committed great depredations, some- times alone, and sometimes with the aid of its neighbour the rat, whom it had enticed into a league, the bordering tribes, who suffered from these marauding expeditions, resolved upon its destruction. Accordingly, having consulted together on the best mode of executing their design, and arranged a combined ?ttack, not, however, unknown to the wary beaver, which, it seems, had a spy in the enemy's quarters, they set out one morning before the sun rose, and, under cover of a dense vapour which hung upon the lake, approached, with noiseless paddle, the shore of the solitary lodge. Not a whis- X OP THE AUCTIC SEA. 133 pf 1 was Ijcard, as cacli Indian cautiously took his station, and stood with bow or spoar in act to strike. One, the *Eagle of his tribe,' advanced before the.rest, and with light steps drew near a cavern in the rock; where, placing his head to the ground, he listened anxiously for some moments, scarcely seeming to breathe; then, with a slight nuilion of his hand, he gave the welcome sign that the enemy was within. "A shower of arrows was poured into the chasm; and the long shrill whoop that accompanied the volley had just died away in its caverns, when a heavy splash was heard, which, for a time, suspended further operations. The attacking party gazed on one another in mute and vacant surprise; for they had not suspected the subterranean passage, and felt that they were baffled. The chief, after creeping into the cavern to explore, directed them to embark; and, having formed a crescent with their canoes at intervals of a hundred yards from each other, they paddled towards the Rat's Lodge, under the idea that the enemy might have retreated thither; if not, it was agreed that the rat, though, upon the wliolc, comparatively harmless, should pay the penalty of his untoward alliance, and suffer a vicarious punishment, for the sins of his friend and the gratification of the disappoint- ed pursuers. The rat, however, fortunately fo*- himself, had that instinctive foresight of approaching ruin which prove*"- bially belongs to his race; and, however ready to assist his neighbour when matters went well with him, and something was to be gained by the co-operation, he watched with a prudent jealousy the conduct and fortunes of one so obnox- ious to hatred, and was ready, on the first appearance of dan- ger, to stand aloof and disclaim him. Accordingly, when the beaver presented himself at the lodge of his friend, to crave a temporary asylum from his pursuers, the rat, with many protestations of esteem and regret, civilly declined to \ / 134 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES admit him, and recommended him to make the most of his time by swimming to some rocks to the south, where he would be safe from his enemies. ■t '-'^ *'The beaver, though stunned for a time by this unexpect- ed repulse, soon recovered his wonted spirit, and, feeling his situation to be hopeless, threw himself on the rat, and began a desperate struggle. How the contest might have ended, it was difficult to conjecture; but the whoop of the Indians arrested the combatants; and, darting a look of vengeance at the rat, the beaver plunged once more into the water. The chase was long, and many were the hair-breadth escapes of the resolute beaver; but the ardour of the hunters was not to be quenched; and tracked to the end of the lake, and thence down the cataracts and rapids which mark its course to the next, the exhausted animal yielded its life, just as its feet touched the distant rocks of the Tal-thel-leh. m "But its spirit," said Maufelly in a low and subdued tone, "still lingers about its old haunt, the waters of which obey its will; and ill fares the Indian who attempts to pass it in his canoe, without muttering a prayer for safety: many have perished; some bold men have escaped; but none have been found so rash as to venture a second time within its power." Whatever may be thought of this strange story, Maufelly related it with so serious an air, as to leave no doubt of his own entire and unqualified faith; and the minute circumstan- tiality of the detail showed with what a religious care he had treasured every particular. The woods afforded us a cheerful fire at our encampment. The night was calm, and beautifully lit up by the flitting coruscations of a bright aurora; nevertheless, impending OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 135 storms were threatened by the cackling of hundreds of geese, which, at an immense height, were winging their flight to the southward. Ranged according to their families, the Gray, or Bustard, the White, and the Laughing Geese, came past in quick succession, vying in swiftness, as if anxious to escape from the wintry horrors of the north. Nothing could be more conclusive of the breaking up of the sonson; and we had reason to be grateful for being so near hohic. it in have been September 6th. — The lake gradually contracted; and I was sorry to remark that the trees were generally small, and unfit for sawing into planks for the construction of my boats. A bay, edged by sand-banks, seemed at first sight to offer a bet- ter kind; but this also, on inspection, was found knotty, full of branches, and consequently unsuitable to the purpose. It was this spot that the Indians had recommended, as possess- ing all the requisites for building and supporting a new esta- blishment; and a stronger example of their incapacity for judging, and of the necessity of receiving their suggestions with caution, could scarcely be brought forward. The as- pect was unsheltered and forbidding; the waters were with- out fish; and there was hardly wood enough in the immedi- ate vicinity to raise a temporary hut, far less to supply it with fuel. Accustomed to their exaggerations, I was not myself much disappointed; but it bore hard upon the men, whose utmost exertions would thus be required in making the neces- sary preparations, at a time when they should rather have been husbanding their strength for the ensuing summer. We soon got to the southern extremity of the lake, which is about forty miles long, and twelve broad at the widest part; and out of respect to the distinguished corps to which some of my crew belonged, and from a grateful remembrance of the 1 3 a JOURNKY TO THE SUOKKS %l |;< i' ■ Ih!.* ■ ^ deep interest manifested by its officers* for the success of the expedition, and of their friendly courtesies to myself, I called it Artillery Lake. The river, by which it discharges itself into Great Slave Lake, began its descent by an ugly rapid, too hozardons to run, and yet scarcely so dangerous as to induce us to make a portage of. We compromised, therefore, by lowering half the way, and carrying the rest. A second rapid was run; but we had not calculated on the amazing force of so confined a torrent; and, just as we gained the eddy, the old canoe got a twist which nearly broke it in two. Another clump of pines induced me to land; and, while the men examined the quality of the timber, I obtained a set of sights, which gave the latitude 62° 53' 26" N. ; longitude, 108° 28' 24" W.; and variation, 38° 42' E. The wood was no way bettf^r than that seen in the early part of the morning; and we pushed from the bank, with the "intention of going carefully down the stream; though a look of indecision, if not of positive apprehension, betokened some inward working in the steersman's mind, for which I was utterly unable to account, until informed, that for days past Maufelly had been taP^uig about the dangers he did know, and the dangers he did not know, in the Ah-h(l- dessy. The Indians, he said, never attempted it in any manner, either up or down; and as he was not in a hur- ry to die, though he was willing to walk on the rocks, he would not, on any account, run it in the canoe. I shamed him out of this unmanly resolution; and when he and his companions had indulged in a laugh among them- selves, we slipt down another rapid. However, on trying the fourth, the steersman became so unnerved, as to lose all *Col. GolJby, Capt. Anderson, jIcuU'. Tylclen, Craufurd, &c- .v<»» OF THK ARCTIC SEA. 137 flelf-comniaijd; and, by notco-operatingwith De Charloit, fixed us against a sharp rock, that cut the canoe. Happily, it twirled round, and floated till we reached the shore. The man's confidence was gone; and, rather than incur any more such risks in the foaming rapids before us, I abandoned an attempt which the Indian persisted in declaring was im- possible j and the trusty and battered canoe being left, with a few other things in cache, each man was laden with a weight of one hundred and twenty pounds, and began to pick his way up the steep and irregular sides of the hills. On gain- ing the summit, Maufelly pointed out to me the spot where Sanpere turned b. k when he was sent to look for the Thlew-ee-choh; so that he had never left the woods, and, consequently, had not been more than half the distance. * lich I days ! did i-hcl- . any hur- 'ocks, c. I n he hem- Irying Ise all At first, we walked with tolerable speed over the broken rocks, and through the intersecting gullies; but the kind of ladder exercise which this imposed taxed the muscles so se- verely, that the strongest was fain to slacken his pace, as the same interruptions and impediments multiplied upon us. We had every disadvantage in following the stream; and, as I could now trace it in a westerly direction as far as a range of mountains that cut it at right angles, and along the base of which it would necessarily flow, there could be no reason to impose upon my crew the fatigue of going there, when, by following a straight line to the east end of Slave Lake, the distance and labour might be so materially lessened. I took leave, therefore, of the Ah-hel-dessy, and had abun- dant cause to rejoice at having done so; for the whole dis- tance to the mountains appeared to be an unbroken succession of rapids, which must have stopped us; for, whether passa- 18 See page 74. v.- r' 'I 'ill ;» 138 JOUUNEY TO THE SHORES ble or not in a boat, they were evidently impracticable for a canoe. The niosquitos, and their confederates the sand-flies, had of late nearly disappeared, or, if a few still buzzed about, they were too torpid to give much annoyance, while the memory of their pa.si injuries, with the present sense of security, had given occasion to many a jest: but our merriment was now interrupted by the unrelenting attacks of increased swarms of the latter, whose more southerly abode had preserved them in the enjoyment of robust and vigorous health. The perse- cution of these venomous insects, and the badness of the route, occasioned frequent halts; in one of which a solitary bear caught the ever-watchful sight of the Indian; and, in- stantly seizing a gun, he went with De Charloit in pursuit. The rock and valley Itwoured their approach; and, though Bruin was on the look out, and, raising himself on his hind legs, stretched out his neck, with a sort of waltzing motion, sniffing the wind suspiciously, all his care was ineffectual — in ten minutes he was lying dead, at the foot of the precipice over which he '•oiled as he fell. Maufelly immediately ran to some willows; and, having cut a branch and trimmed it into a skewer, he fixed it into the bear's mouth, in such a manner as to keep the jaws fully extended; which, he as- sured me, with much gravity, would prevent its biting, as many of its kind had been known to do, and as his own fa- ther had found to his cost. To that hour, he said, he bore thp marks of one, which he thought had been dead, and was deliberately preparing to cut up; when, to his great horror, it seized him by the leg. Aware of their obstinacy of belief on all matters connected with hunting, or relating to the ani- mals with which they were familiar, I made no vain attempts to convince them of their errors, however ridicui^ous, but lis- tened patiently, and without comment, to their stories; but my steersman was so much diverted at the gaping counte- OF TIIK AHCTIf SKA. 139 tor a flies, they nriory , had } now ms of them perse- of the olitary nd, in- 'suit. though lis hind motion, pctual — recipice ely ran Timed it such a he as- iting, as own fa- he bore and was horror, of belief the ani- ttempts , but lis- ies; but counte- nance of Bruin, that he gave loose to liis mirth; whicli so an- noyed the Indian, tliat, Avilli a glance of ineffable conteinpl, not unmixed with anger, h(! nuittored in his guttural Ian guagc, "The white man did not laugh in the rapid." lie then sat down and smoked his pipe, while his companion ex- pertly stripped off the skin, and placed the meat in cache, to he sent for at a future opportunity. I could not avoid re- marking the minute curiosity with which the operator in- spected the entrails, the haste with which he threw over his shoulders a portion that he had lopped off, carefully refrain- ing to look in that direction, and the smile which played over his features at beholding the stomach filled with berries. *'C'est leur fa9on," said the interpreter to my inquiry, who, notwithstanding the philosophic tenor of his answer, was evidently as interested in the scrutiny as the Indian himself. By the same "fa^on," I learned that the reindeer had no gall- bladder in the region of the liver, nor any where else, that they could discover; a fact of which I have no hesitation in confessing my previous ignorance, but which was subsequent- ly verified by the anatomical examination of Mr. King. The march was resumed, sometimes in valleys heaped with confused masses of debris from the surrounding granite, at others along narrow shelves of perpendicular rocks, not un- like some of the passes of the Alps, and thrcutening the same disastrous consequences from a false step. Our route seem- ed even perilous; and thinking the Indian had purposely led us into it by way of revenge for the late laugh, I hastened forward to remonstrate; but he kept his lead, and when 1 leached the summit of the mountain, the sun was setting, and it was time to encamp. "Let not the sun go down on thy wrath," admonished me to be silent; and when Mau- felly pointed to Artillery Lake on the far horizon, and to another at the extreme south, I rejoiced that, whatever the 140 JOURNEY TO THK SHORES ff I motive might have been, he had chosen that steep and weary track. It was a sight altogether novel to me; I had seen nothing in the Old World at all resembling it. There was not the stern beauty of Alpine scenery, and still less the fair variety of hill and dale, forest and glade, which makes the charm of an European landscape. There was nothing to catch or detain the lingering eye, which wandered on, with- o'lt a check, over endless lines of round backed rocks, whose sides were rent into indescribably eccentric forms. It was like a stormy ocean suddenly petrified. Except a few tawny and pale green lichens, there was nothing to relieve the hor- ror of the scene; for the fire had scathed it, and the gray and black stems of the mountain pine, which lay prostrate in mournful confusion, seemed like the blackened corpses of de- parted vegetation. It was a picture of "hideous ruin and combustion." Our encampment was broken up, and we were on our way very early on the morning of the 7th of September, but every one was too busily engaged in picking his way to speak; not a word was audible until about eight o'clock, when a fine buck deer, betrayed by its branching antlers, ■was espied feeding behind a point thirty paces from us. It was brought down; and the haunch, covered with a rich layer of fat two inches thick, afforded a luxurious breakfast. Having put the remainder en cache, we proceeded on our way, and when we had gained the top of a hill, Slave Lake was seen right before us, hemmed in by mountains of con- siderable magnitude and height. A craggy range to the right determined the course of the Ah-hel-dessy ; and many a steep rock and deep valley between the lake and us, announced the fatigue which was to be endured before we arrived at our destination. But how can I possibly give an idea of the tor- ment we endured from the sand flies? As we dived into the Iri. or THE ARCTIC 8KA. 141 confined and suffocating chasms, or waded through the close swamps, they rose in clouds, actually darkening the air; to see or to speak was equally diflicult, for tlioy rushed at every undefended i)art, and fixed their j)oisonous fangs in an instant* Our faces streamed with blood, as if leeches had been applied} and there was a burning and irritating pain, followed i)y im« mediate inflammation, and producing giddiness, which almost drove us mad. Whenever we halted, which the nature of the country compelled us to do often, the men, even Indians, threw themselves on their faces, and moaned with pain and agony. My arms being less encumbered, I defended myself in some degree by waving a branch in each hand; but even with this, and the aid of a veil and stout leather gloves, I did not escape without severe punishment. For the time, I thought the tiny plagues worse even than mosquitos. 'ay to [clock, itlers, It rich Lkfast. In our Lake While speaking on this subject, I am reminded of a remark of Maufelly, which, as indicative of the keen observation of the tribe, and illustrating the humanity of the excellent indi- vidual to whom it alludes, I may be pardoned for introducing here: — It wan the custom of Sir John Franklin never to kill a fly, and though teased by them beyond expression, especi-j ally when engaged in taking observations, he would quietly^ desist from his work, and patiently blow the half-gorged in- truders from his hands — "the world was wide enough for both." This was jocosely remarked upon at the time by Akaitcho and the four or five Indians who accompanied him; but the impression, it seems, had sunk deep, for on Mau* felly's seeing me fill my tent with smoke, and then throw open the front and beat the sides all round with leafy branches, to drive out the stupified pests before I went to rest, he could not refrain from expressing his surprise that I sliould be st| unlike the old chief, who would not destroy so much as a single mosquito. \ m 142 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES m0:; ■ I *::-*'■ !i(f ^;. '■ As we got to the confluence of the Ah-hel-dessy with Great Slave Lake, I was glad to perceive that the trees, though knotty, were of greater girth, and that some small birch were also thinly scattered about. As yet, however, I had not seen any that would have answered for planking, and began to fear that we should have to send about one hundred and fifty miles for that indispensable material. We had now reached the eastern extremity of the lake, where, in my letter of the 19th of August, I had directed Mr. M'Leod to build an establishment. Proceeding onward over the mossy and even surface of the sand-banks, we were accordingly gladdened by the sound of the woodman's s oke; and, guided by the branchless trunks, which lay stretched alCiig the earth, we soon came to a bay, where, in agreeable relief against the dark green foliage, stood the newly-erected framework of a house. Mr. M;- ■ !!■ I^F' After the men had recovered from their bites, rather than their fatigue, they were sent for the meat which wc had con- cealed in our track; and, returning by a different route, they had the good fortune to find a clump of trees sufficiently free from knots to admit of their being converted into the proper length of planking for boats. This discovery was most im- portant, as it was afterwards found to be the only clump at all suited to the purpose; and, had it not been thus luckily stumbled on, the trouble, expense, and fatigue of sending at least a hundred miles over the ice for wood, might have cramped, if not altogether paralysed, our efforts in the ensu- ing summer. On the 16th of September, I had the gratification to wel- come to the fort my companion Mr. King. He arrived with the two laden bateaux; and, notwithstanding his inexperience in the country, he brought his heavy cargo in a very good state of preservation. He had suffered, as was to be expect- ed, the usual impositions which the old voyageurs consider themselves entitled to practise on the uninitiated, and had, conseq'iently, been exposed to frequent rersonal inconve- niences. Between Cumberland House aind Isle a la Crosse, he met some Cree Indians, "who passed," said Mr. King, "in their canoes, in seeming high spirits; but in a short time the old man of the family returned, with a request that I would extract a tooth, claiming me, at the same time, as a brother 'medicine man.' The difference in his first and se- cond appearance was truly ludicrous, — then active and cheer- ful, now, diseased and dejected : he acted his part admirably, and, at his earnest entreaty, I gave him a few harmless mix- tures, which might assist him in maintaining his professional respectability." The negligence of the men had caused his passing the pitch springs in the Elk River without taking in a supply; and, on reaching Chipewyan, he had to send back OF THE ARCTIC SEa. 147 !r than id con- e, they tly free proper ost im- lamp at' luckily iding at ht have le ensu- 1 to wel- ved with :perience ery good E expect- consider and had, inconve- 1 Crosse, T. King, lort time 1st that I ime, as a |t and se- id cheer- .mirably, iCSS mix- ifessional used his :aking in nd back for some. Fortunately, during the delay so occasioned, Mr. Charles, the chief factor of the district, arrived, and relieved him from another embarrassing situation with regard to pro- visions. He had my directions to supply his party with enough for thirty days' consumption, but was informed by the clerk in charge that he could not have half the quantity, as some must be reserved for the Slave Lake and Peace River brigades. His instructions were positive, to keep our sixty bag's entire, except in case of actual starvation; and he had begun therefore to provide nets, to avoid the neces- sity of trenching on them, when the opportune appearance of the chief factor removed his disquietude, by clearing the store for him. Mr. King at the same time bore grateful tes- timony to the general courtesy and kindness manifested by this gentleman. Certainly, to one who is wandering for the first time in a strange land, the meeting with a generous and warm-hearted countryman is in( xpressibly delightful. It cheers and refreshes the traveller, carrying back his thoughts to that dear land which claims them both for its children. That Mr. King, under the circumstances in which he found himself, should feel even more than ordinary gratitude was but natural. "While at Chipewyan, Mr. King had performed a success- ful operation on a woman's upper lip, which was in a shock- ing state from cancer, brought on, as he thought, from the inveterate habit of smoking, so common among the half- breeds. He had met with two or three cases of it before; one, at Fort William, was incurable, and very loathsome. His presence was hailed with delight at every post beyond Jack River, either by the natives, or those who resided at them; and it surprised me to learn how much disease has spread through this part of the country. i us JOURNEY TO THE SHORES 1 ■('■'* , . Vi w mm' Having procured the tar, Mr. King embarked in a half- sized canoe with four men, and followed the bateaux, which had been sent ahead, without other guide than James Spcnce, one of my men in the last expedition, who had exchanged with a Canadian, to join me, — an excellent lad, but with not a very accurate memory, so that the canoe was nearly drawn into the frightful rapids and falls of the ^'Cassette," to run which is never even attempted. He had passed the proper turn- ing to make the portage, and the Iroquois in the bow declar- ed he could neither advance nor retreat. Luckily they were near the land, which they reached; and, by converting their ceintures, or sashes, into a towing line, they hauled up against the strong current, and ultimately got into the right track. On descending the Slave River, Mr. King met ^pmc Indians, and engaged one to take him in his small canoe to Fort Resolution, under the impression of gaining time; and this species of travelling he described as not being over com- fortable. "I was forty hours in the Indian canoe," said he, *'and it was decidedly the most irksome time I ever spent. I was not able to move hand or foot; and this occasioned such a state of drowsiness, as made sleep almost irresistible, though the consequence might have been the upsetting of the canoe. '^"' Some strong tea, however, dispelled it; and, on reaching the Fort, he found that the boats had been four days before him.* The people, according to Mr. King's account, had con- ducted themselves as well as those of their station generally do, under similar circumstances, with the exception of two; and they were the less excusable, from the consideration shown them, and the generous treatment they had experi- *I had been kindly provided with various seeds, by Mr. Lindley, the learned Secretary of tl»e Horticultural Society, some of which were left at each post. OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 149 half- vhich icnce, [ingcd Lh not iravvn ,0 run I" turn- leclar- y were (J their led up e right it some anoe to le; and ;r corn- paid he, pent. I d such though !anoe.'^' fing the before id con- [nerally bf two; leration 3Xperi- ^ley, the z\\ were enced from the Arctic Committee in England. I tlicreforc took this occasion to assemble tlie whole of my party, and to inflict a public and severe reprimand upon the oflcnders. The binding nature of their agreements was recapitulate:!, and a brief explanation given of the system iliat would be ob- served throughout the service. I endeavoured to convince them that it was their true interest to conduct themselves like good and honest men; and I reminded them that they were embarked in an enterprise which, whether successful or not, would always receive the meed of public approbation. After this admonition I introduced Mr. M'Lcod as an officer of the expedition, and the person to whose superintendence and management our future establishment would be com- mitted; and I informed them that from him they would re- ceive their orders. The site of our intended dwelling was a level bank of gravel and sand, covered with reindeer moss, shrubs, and trees, and looking more like a park than part of an American forest. It formed the northern extremity of a bay, from twelve to fifteen miles long, and of a breadth varying from three to five miles, named after my friend Mr. M'Leod. The Ah-hel-dessy fell into it from the westward, and the small river previously mentioned from the eastward. Gra- nitic hills, or mountains, as the Indians term them, of gray and flesh-coloured felspar, quartz, and in some places large plates of mica, surrounded the bay, and attained an altitude of from five to fifteen hundred feet; which, however, instead of sheltering us, rather acted as a conductor for the wind between E. S. E. and W. S. W. which occasionally blew with great violence. The long sand banks, which ran cut between the two rivers, and the snug nooks along the shores, seemed to offer a safe retreat for the white fish during their _Z1 M ■■ . 'i *m:. 150 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES i i¥ spawning season, which was now at hand; and more nets were set, to take advantage of so auspicious a promise. The men were divided into parties, and appointed to regu- lar tasks: some to the felling of trees, and squaring them into beams or 1 afters; others, to the sawing of slabs and planks: here was a group awkwardly chipping the shapeless granite into something like form; und there a party in a boat in search of mud and grass for mortux. It was an animated scene; and, set oif as it was by the white tents and smoky leather lodges, contrasting with the mountains and green woods, it was picturesque as well as interesting. In a few days, the framework of the house and observa- tory were up; but, in consequence of the smallness of the trees, and the distance from which they were carried, our progress in filling up the walls was necessarily slow. In the meantime, there was an evident falling off in the numbers of the white fish, which had given place to trout. On exami- nation, it was found that these latter had eaten the spawn of the others. ^ 'i^'-.;r^ We were scarcely settled in our new station, when a small party of Indians came with a little meat; and, having obtain- ed in exchange what they wanted, went away again, leaving, however, behind them an infirm old man. Two more elderly Chipewyans shortly afterwards joined him, one of whom carried on his back his son, \vho was weak from '..aat of food. In short, the sick and miserable soon began to flock in from all quarters, in the hope of procuring that succour from us which we could not afford but through the means of their own countrymen. Indifferent to the sufferings of those around them, the hale hunters move with the activity almost of the animal they pursue; trusting to the humanity of the ll!?^ OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 1>51 e nets D regu- ;m into planks: granite boat in limated smoky 1 green Dbserva- I of the ■ied, our In the •nbers of exami- pawn of a small obtain- eaving, elderly whom .aat of to flock succour eans of of those almost J of the white man to sustain the infirm or sinking members of their family. In a long settled post, the resources of which are constant, this may be tolerated, so long as it does not amount to imposition; but in our situation, cramped as we were already beginning to be in our means, it was easy to foresee that the injudicious encouragement of such a practice would involve us in inextricable difficulties. With this conviction, I resolved not to yield to it; and, though the applicants never left us altogether unsolaced or empty-handed, they were not permitted to remain on the ground. Wherever a station is established, not only the diseased, who come from necessity, but swarms of other visiters, immediately repair to it, — women and children, old and idle, seeking what they can get, or actuated by curiosity, or, as they say, "coming to see their relations," by that term meaning the half-breed women who are the partners of the voyagcurs. Fortunately we had none of these relations, and were therefore free from the unwelcome civilities of their kinsmen of the forest. To be sure, when an excuse is wanted for a visit, they are not particular as to the degree of affinity; for an Indian, who addressed me as "brother-in-law," being asked why he gave me so affectionate an appellation, answered with great naiveU, "What! does not the chief recollect that I spoke to him at Chipewyan?" On the 29th of September, a fire being seen on the oppo- site side of the bay, a canoe was despatched to see who had made it; and soon returned, not with a good load of meat, as we had hoped, but with a poor old woman, bent double by age and infirmities, and rendered absolutely frightful by fa- mine and disease. The ills that "flesh is heir to" had been prodigally heaped on her, and a more hideous figure Dante himself has not conceived. ir^2 JOUUNEk' TO TlIK SHOHEM 'i: Cliul in (Icor skins, lior eyes all hut closed, her hair mal- ted and (illhy, Acr skin shrivelled, and feebly HUjjporting, wi'h the n' • ui a stiek held hy both hands, a trunk which was literally horizontal, she presented, if such an expression may he pardoneil, tl^.e shockinjj; and unnatural appearance of a human brute. It was a humiliating spectacle, and one which I would not willingly see again. Poor wretch! Her tale was soon told: old and decrej)it, she had come to he considered as a burtlen even by her own sex. Past services and toils Vvere forgotten, and, in their figurative style, they coldly told her, that *'thougli she ai)peared to live, she was already dead," and must be abandoned to her fate. "There is a new fo"*!," i-aid they; <'go there; the whites are great medicine men, and may have power to save you." This was t month before; sii.cc which time she had crawled and hobbled along the rocks, the scanty supply of berries which she found upon them Just enabling her to live. Another day or two must have ended her sullerings. The nights now began to j:jct frosty, and diminished the chance of taking fish in any number, so that in a length of four hundred fathoms of net, only twenty-seven, and those of an indilFerent sort, were cr.uj^ht. As these did not sullice for the rations of the day, we were reluctantly driven to our sea stock of pemmican. ■T.. October. — Starving Indians continued to arrive from every point of the compass, declaring that the animals had left the Barren Lands where they had hitherto been accustomed to feed at this season; and that the calamity was not confined to the Yellow Knives, but that the Chipewyans also were as for- lorn and destitute as themselves. There is no reasoning with a hungry belly, that I am acquainted with. The only way is to satisfy its demands as soon as possible; and, indeed. 11 'f*T. OF THE AIU TIC SEA. 1.53 when this is obstinately refused, the Indian (-onsiders, and perhaps rightly, tliat he is only obeyinj; the natural impulse of self-preservation, in laying forcible hands on whj»tever falls within his reach. Atone of the Company's posts in the northern department, where the animals, 'is in our case, were so scarce that the natives could not procure subsistence, they threw themselves on the generosity of the gentleman in charge, and requested a small proportion of the meat out of his well-stocked store, to enable them to recruit their strength for fre.^h efforts in the chase. They were denied; and returned dejected to their wintry abode. Now and then a moose deer was killed, but long was the fasting between; find in those intervals of grip- ing pain, the inhospitality of the white man was dwelt upon with savage indignation, which aL last vented itself in pro- jects of revenge. An opportunity presented itself in the ar- rival at their lodges of the interpreter, who had been despatch- ed from the factory to see what they were doing. This man had not been popular with them before, and the part he had taken in the late transaction had aggravated the feeling against him. Of this he was himself aware; and being a half-breed, was not without the cautious suspicion which is characteristic of the aboriginal. Still the wonted familiarity, and the friendly pipe that greeted his entrance into the principal lodge, dimi- nished his fears; and a little dried meat, given with apparent cheerfulness for the use of the fort, finally removed all appre- hension Two Canadians, who had accompanied him, left early on their return; and, in an hour after, he followed their steps. The Indians watched him until he was hid by the woods; then grasped their guns, and by a short cut gained a spot favourable for their purpose, before any of the three had arrived. Cowering in ambush within ten paces of the track, they waited for their approach, and at a given signal fired, '30 'i ►> . I ; ki<' 1 1'< B''' ' I J' '^ •''' . [K flt 154 JOITRNKY TO TIIK 81IORKS and brought down two of the unsuspecting travellers. The third fled, and wad pursued with savage yells by the infuriat- ed Indians. Fear added wings to the Canadian; and having outstripped the foremost, he hid himself breathless and ex- hausted among some rocks. The Indians rushed past with- out perceiving him, and having reached the house, broke furiously into the apartment of the gentleman, who had not yet risen, and after reproaching him with the horrors he had caused, instantly deprived him of life. I Their vengeance being thus horribly satiated, they return- ed to the woods without committing the slightest act of spo- liation. The Canadian and another man, whom, strange to say, they did not molest, hastened to the neighbouring p-sts, with an account of this shocking catastrophe. Fresh parties were established at the same station, and the nerpetrators of the murder were finally hunted dov\ n by the people of their own tribe, — a melancholy but salutar^'^ lesson not only to the red man but to the white. It was now the middle of October, and up to this time a few snow birds and four white partridges were all that had been seen. The deer too, as well as the fish, seemed to have taken their departure. The Indians, satisfied with the pittance doled out to them, and having been supplied with hooks and bits of nets, quitted us one after another, leav- ing only some of the elder ones, from two of whom I learnt, that they had been further down the Thlew-ee-choh than any others of their tribe. They described it favourably, and asserted that it was entirely free from falls, though suffi- ciently interrupted by rapids. The value of this assertion will hereafter be seen. Their idea of its course was, that it ran due north, or, if .uiy thing, rather to the eastward, though, from some blue mountains often mentioned in the OF THE ARCTIC SEA. ISS diacoiirae as the limit of their knowledge, it was represented as taking a course to the left. Their statements, moreover^ corroborated the previous opinions given of the The-lew, which was said to How through a low marshy tract, connecUi ed with an estuary, opening to the sea by a narrow channel, the shores of which were lined by Esquimax. On these pecH pie, they said they had formerly made war, as well as on th#' Esquimaux at the mouth of the Thlew-ee-choh. in the The work of building went on briskly, though our 8ubsti<» tute for mortar, clay, and sand, froze as fast as it was laid on. The observatory was soon completed; it was a square building twelve feet inside, having a porch at the west with double doors, the outer one of which opened south. The roof was angular, and covered with rough slabs of wood hav- ing the flat side down, and the hollows on the outside were filled up with a mixture of clay, sand, and dry grass. It had four windows of moose-skin parchment, with a small pane of glass in each, facing respectively north, south, east, and west. The space within was carefully cleared of all stones, and a thoroughly dried trunk of a tree seven feet long, and two feet and a half in diameter, was let down into a hole three feet deep in the centre, and then rammed tight by successive layers of clay and sand. This part was cased in a square framework of three feet, grooved and mortised; and the in- terior spaces were gradually filled up with the same compo- sition as was used to plaster the walls. When the plaster was quite dry, a square thick board was mortised on the post, and the whole fabric was as firm as a rock. The floor was planked, and when the doors were closed, the difference of temperature between the out and inside was 14°. There was not a nail or the smallest particle of iron in the building; and to guard against the accidental approach of any person with a gun, an axe, or the like, I had it enclosed with a ring fence i i !■<■... . 156 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES of seventy feet diameter. It was situated on a gentle rise, two hundred yards from the lake, and about one hundred from the east end of the house. A strong staif, fifteen feet high, was fixed on the northern extremity of the ridge pole, on the spindle of which was a vane; and besides white poles, placed in the direction of the true and magnetic meridian, I had a horizontal cross at the north side of the observatory, within the fence, to enable us to take the bearings of phe- nomena with greater accuracy than can be attained by the mere guess of the eye. The angular heights of the surround- ing mountains were also ascertained. Na Observations were immediately made for the magnetic force and dip, with Hansteen's and Dollond's needles, and a lozenge-shaped one after the suggestion of Captain Beechey ; but this, for the sake of clearness, will, together with our observations of other phenomena, be thrown into a tabular form in the appendix. Three thermometers (spirit) were placed inL>ide the observatory — four outside, on the north, and one exposed to the sun on the south side. They had been previously compared, and for some time their relative means were taken; but afterwards that plan was relinquished, and the nearest mean thermometers Were adopted as standards for the whole. The daily-variation instrument, made by Jones, on a plan of Professor Christie's, to be explained here- after, was also adjusted in the magnetic meridian, and its readings registered ten times a day, between eight in the morning and midnight The temperatures were noted fifteen times in the twenty-four hours. A short time after the needle was placed, there was a strange appearance connected with the aurora, and which, though it will probably be again mentioned when I come to treat of that subject expressly, I may perhaps be excused, on N»i ' ■'■■. % OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 157 account of its singularity, for noticing in this place also. At 5" 30" p. M., while occupied in taking the transit of a star, I perceived the coruscations streaming from behind a detached and oblong dark cloud in a vertical position at E. b. S.* They issued along an undulating arch 38° high, and spread themselves laterally in beams north and south. Another arch, brighter and narrower than the former, suddenly emerged from W. b. N. , and passed between a nearly hori- zontal black cloud and the stars, which were then not visible through the Aurora. I immediately looked at the needle, and found it slightly agitated, but not vibrating: on returning, I was surprised to see the dark horizontal cloud to the west- ward not in the same shape as before. It had now taken a balloon form, and was evidently fast spreading towards the zenith. On looking to the eastward, I perceived that a dark cloud there also was rapidly altering its appearance. So un- usual a sight induced me to call my companions, Messrs. King and M'Leod, and we saw the dark broad mass from the westward gradually expand itself, so as to meet the other, which was likewise rising, at or near the zenith. The effect of the junction was a dark gray arch, extending from E. b. S. to W. b. N. across the zenith, and completely obscuring the stars, though at each side of the arch they were particu- larly clear and twinkling. In the meantime, the Aurora as- sumed every variety of form; such as undulating and fringed arches, 30° to 50° high and more or less broad, with flashes and beams at right angles to them. The cloudy arch, too, was illuminated at and around its N. W. edges near the hori- zon, while rays and curved beams played round its eastern extremity. In a few seconds, the part of this nearest the horizon assumed a zig-zag form, like forked lightning; and immediately the western extremity sympathised, undergoing )!'S on * Magnetic bearirig'. if • Mi ' - * 4 i * I .* 158 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES ' ( I' ¥!l momentary transitions which defy description. Such con- vulsions at the extremes soon affected the centre t' the arch, which becoming gradually fainter and fainter, at last vanish- ed entirely, leaving the stars to shine forth in all their bril- liance. The detached masses yet remained, though under various forms, and the Aurora nimbly played round and through them, especially the eastern one, until not the slight- est vestige of them remained. On this occasion the Aurora was high, and consequently did not act powerfully on the needle, which was an extreme- ly delicate one; but T had opportunities afterwards of seeing this drawn eight degrees on one side, by the same agency; a remark which I only make for the information of those, who may not'be disposed to inspect the tables. The little river to the east, and the borders of the lake, were frozen over by the latter end of the month; but the weather was very mild, and a fresh gale generally broke up the ice again in a few hours. To this unusual mildness of the season may be ascribed the unparalleled sufferings of the Indians, who, emaciated and worn out by fatigue, con- tinued to pour in upon us from the barren lands, where, contrary to their habits, the deer still remained; keeping at too great a distance to be followed. One poor fellow had not tasted meat for ten days, and, but for the hope of seeing us, must have sunk by the way. Pinched as we were our- selves, little could be bestowed upon the wretched sufferers. Amongst other fancies, the Indians began to imagine that the instruments in the observatory, concealed from every one but Mr. King and myself, were the mysterious cause of all their misfortunes: nor were they singular in this opinion; for on one occasion when taking the dip, &c. two of the voyageurs listened, and hearing only a word at intervals, such as Now! 1 con- I arch, anish- ir bril- under id and slight- ^uently utreme- f seeing ;ency; a se, who he lake, but the y broke lildness xings of lue, con- where, keeping low had If seeing re our- lufferers. that the one but lall their for on '/ageurs as Now! OF THE AllCTIC SEA. 159 Stop! always succeeded by a perfect silence, they looked .it each other, and with significant shrugs, turning hastily away from the railing, reported to their companions that they verily believed I was "raising the devil. 5J Endeavouring to laugh away the whimsical notion of the Yellow-knives, I told them that they had mistaken the thing, for that the mysterious instruments attracted, not dispersed, the animals; as they would find when they went to hunt. The assertion, uttered in jest, seemed to be verified in earn- est, for an old bear was shot the same day, and, though lean and tough, was greedily devoured. Although, among so many, it was but a taste for each, it excited a slight anima- tion; soon, however, they relapsed into their former melan- choly; and a painful sight it was to behold them, singly or in groups, standing by the men at their meals, and eagerly watching each envied mouthful, but disdaining to utter a word of complaint. The wretched old woman, whom I have spoken of before, was too much worn out by her infirmities to be sensible of our kindness and protection; and, though assured that she would be taken care of, she never failed to attend our scanty repast, and, with monotonous and feeble wailings, assailed my servant for the scrapings of the kettles. Different places had been tried for fish, but after the first haul the nets were invariably found empty. To remedy, if possible, 80 deplorable a circumstance, the men were divided into parties, and, with the exception of one retained to finish the house, were sent to a specified part of the lake for the sole purpose of procuring subsistence. Some succeeded, but others returned after a short absence, with the loss of two nets, and a most discouraging account of their labours. I had therefore no resource but to reduce the daily rations, and stop the usual allowance to the dogs, many of which became 1«0 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES in consequence so reduced as to be barely able to crawl, and to this day I have not ceased to wonder how they were kept alive. f: In the midst of these disasters, our hopes were somewhat brightened by the accidental but well-timed arrival of two young hunters, who, having separated from Akaitcho to look for deer, had fallen on a large herd, some cf which they had killed, but, in returning to inform the chief of their good fortune, had got bewildered in fogs, and finding themselves, when the weather cleared, w'thin a day's march of our sta- tion, could not resist the tem',tation to get a little tobacco in exchange, to us most welcome, for some fresh meat. In a few hours, all who were capable of exertion set off for the land of promise; and, for a time, the immediate prospect cf want was removed. On the fifth of November, we had the pleasure of changing our cold tents for the comparative comfort of the house, which, like most of those in this country, was constructed of a framework, filled up with logs let into grooves, and closely plastered with a cement composed of common clay and sand. The roof was formed of a number of single slabs, extending slantingly from the ridge pole to the eaves; and the whole was rendered tolerably tight by a mixture of dry grass, clay, and sand, which was beat down between the slabs, and sub- sequently coated over with a thin layer of mud. The house was fifty feet long and thirty broad; having four separate rooms, with a spacious hall in the centre for the reception and accommodation of the Indians. Each of the room,s had a fireplace and a rude chimney, which, save that it suffered a fair proportion of the smoke to descend into the room, an- swered tolerably well. A diminutive apology for a room, neither wind nor water tight, was attached to the hall, and OF THK ARCTIC SEA. 161 dignified with the name of a kitchen. The men's houses, forming the western side of what was intended to be a square, but which, like many other squares, was never finished, com- pleted our building. As every post in the country is distin- guished by a name, I gave to ours that of Fort Reliance, in token of our trust in that merciful Providence, whose protec- tion we humbly hoped would be extended to us in the many difficulties and dangers to which these services are exposed. The exact site is in latitude 62° 46' 29" N., longitude 109° 0' 38-9" W.; the variation, 35° 19' east, and dip, 84° 44'. About a mile from the ho'ise was a tree which had been struck by lightning, and splintered twenty feet down the trunk, the pieces being thrown thirty or forty paces away. I do not recollect to have seen a similar instance. A continuation of mild weather, and the manner in which the deer was harassed, caused them to return to a distance on the barren lands, where they could not be followed at this season; and towards the end of the month our supplies again failed; distress was prevalent, and the din and screeching of women and children too plainly indicated the acuteness of their suffering. The opportune appearance of my old acquain- tance, Akaitcho, with a little meat, enabled us to relieve and quiet the confusion, and some of them went away with the chief, who promised that we should not want as long as he had any thing to send to the fort. He did not directly in- quire about Sir John Franklin, or Doctor Richardson; but his satisfaction was very visible, when I gave him some little presents in their names, and pointed to the silver medal pre- sented to him at Fort Enterprise, which he was then wear- ing as a proof that he had not forgotten them. An additional trifle or two made him quite happy, and he left us to all ap- pearance the determined friend of the expedition. 21 162 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES |i''!;S'' Among those who accompanied him was an rid man, who gavp vs information of a lake about thirty miles to the S. E., where on pressing occasions he resorted to fish; and, willing to catch at the smallest chance of saving the pemmi- can, I prevailed on him to act as guide to a small party selected to make the trial; the result of which, if favourable, was to be communicated without delay. Accordingly on the third day La Charite, one of the party, reached the house late at night, after a painful walk without snow shoes through deep snow in the woods, bringing four fish, and the welcome tidings, that by spreading over a greater surface there was a likelihood of taking more. Every man that could be spared was thereupon sent away with him; we who remained being thrown upon our pemmican, a third of which was already expended. 'fWi, December 7. — Being anxious to diminish as far as possible the number of our party, I now discharged De Charloit and two Iroquois, conformably to their agreements, and La Cha- rite, at his own solicitation; but not until he had provided a substitute, who turned out to be in every respect superior to him as a voyageur. They were supplied with the necessary means to carry them to the next establishment; and I charged De Charloit with my despatches for Mr. Hay, Under-secre- tary of State for the Colonies, and for the Admiralty — toge- ther with extra requisitions for the use of the expedition during the following year, to be sent from York Factory. Only four Indians arrived within this week, and they came for food. They were greatly dejected, and added to the general gloom by encouraging the apprehension of those calamities which, judging from so unpromising a beginning, might be expected to befall them during the winter. Had it been a solitary instance of misfortune, their superstition, I fear, would have fixed the blame on the expedition; but it [ man, I to the i; and, )emmi- 1 party arable, ' oh the 3 house hrough elcome e was a ; spared d being already possible loit and La Cha- )vided a )erior to jcessary charged jr-secre- ' — toge- Dedition actory. ■ came to the ■ those inning, Had it tition, I but it OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 163 appeared that the two preceding years had been pregnant with more than ordinary evils to the different tribes inhabit- ing the country about Slave Lake and the M'Kenzie River. To the westward, indeed, and more directly in the neigh- bourhood of the Riviere au Liard, forty of the choicest hunters among the Chipewyans had bc^n destroyed by actual famine; many others had not yet been heard of; and the scattered survivors, from the rigours of the climate, and the difficulty of procuring a single animal, had experienced the severest hardships which even their hardy natures were capable of sustaining. Sometimes unusual and appalling visitations carried them off, as in the case of two women and their children, who with their laden dogs were travelling near the mountains, towards their tents; when suddenly, one of them called out in alarm, and before they had time to fly, they were caught in a whirlwind, and in an instant swept into eternity. One boy only out of the number was found, and he died in excruciating pain the same night. December 16. — The interpreter came from one of the fishing stations with an account of the loss of some nets, and the inadequacy of their means of support. They seldom took more than thirteen small fish in a day, and the Indians, now reduced to a state of great weakness, crowded round them for a portion of what they could ill afford. It was the same with us; for those who happened to be within a mode- rate distance fell back on the Fort, as the only chance of prolonging their existence; and we freely imparted the utmost we could spare. In vain did we endeavour to revive their drooping spirits, and excite them to action; the scourge was too heavy, and their exertions were entirely pa;:'alysed. No sooner had one party closed the door, than another, still more languid and distressed, feebly opened it, and confirmed by their half-famished looks and sunken eyes their heart- m 164 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES I, * rending tale of suffering. They spoke little, but crowded in silence round the fire, as if eager to enjoy the only com- fort remaining to them. A handful of mouldy pounded meat, which had been originally reserved for our dogs, was the most liberal allowance we could make to each; and this meal, unpalatable and unwholesome as it was, together with tVi ■ cus^< iry presentation of the friendly pipe, was suffi- cient t ■! -^--.ce for a moment the recollection of their sorrows, and »' 1 ' iight up their faces with a smile of hope. — "We know, they . d, "that you are as much distressed as our- selves, and you are very good." Afflicting as it was to be- hold such scenes of suffering, it was at the same time grati- fying to observe the resignation with which they were met. There were no impious upbraidings of Providence, nor any of those revolting acts, too frequent within late years, which have cast a darker shade over the character of the savage Indian. While the party thus scantily relieved were ex- pressing their gratitude, one of their companions arrived, and after a short pause announced that a child was dying for want of food, close at hand. The father instantly jumped up; and having been supplied with some pemmican, for we had no other meat, hurried away, and happily arrived in time to save its life. Like all other barbarous nations, these people are natu- rally prone to superstition; and many of their legends, what- ever may be thought of them in these enlightened days, are quite as reasonable as the traditionary tales which in other states of society dimly reveal the past, and serve to amuse the present age. They have their good and evil spirits, haunting the waters, the woods, and the mountains; their giants, and confabulating animals, "animali parlanti;" their "Pucks," and a host of other mischief-loving gentry. I allude to these superstitions here, by way of preface to a was tor we time natu- what- amuse spirits, their their ry. I ■e to a OF thk: arctic sea. lt)5 story related by one of our unhappy guests, respecting the conduct of a Chipewyan, whom he and many others held responsible for the absence of the deer. "We might have kncvvn," said a young but emaciated hunter, as he ejected large volumes of smoke from his nos- trils,— '*we might have known that this winter would be marked by something uncommon. The Chipewyans have always been unfriendly to, if not secret enemies of, the Yel- low Knives, and would feast and rejoice at our 'sfortunes. Why did he come among us? Was he not caut nnt by our old men to desist from his rash purpose, ai, ' list;, 'o the words of wisdom founded on experience? -'^-ui no; he had often, he said, been told, that if a solitary aeei ' -^re beaten, the whole herd would at once abandon that part of the coun- try where the deed was done: as if thoj avl* of animals feeding at places far distant from each other could possibly know what he might do at any particular spot to one of their kind. He did not believe it; some people had bad tongues, and at the first opportunity he would put the matter to proof. Accordingly, in the spring of the year, when a little crust was formed on the snow by the effect of the heat of the day followed by the cold of the night, he sallied out on his long snow shoes of six feet; and skimming lightly over the bright surface, soon discovered eight or ten deer feeding on a frozen swamp. "Making a circuit behind them, he approached with the greatest caution; yet even his almost noiseless tread scared these timid and watchful creatures. As he expected, they ran upon the lake, us'r.g every exertion to escape; but their hoofs, thiHlgl. remarkably broad, were unequal to their sup- port, and at each plunge they sank to their haunches in the snow, and became an easy prey to the hrnter; who, boine .•;# ». I L65 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES fit. 4. i,. m ■ l- ■'I . 4.« ' ! '.^r up by his long snow shoes, got close to and killed them all except one. This he beat in the most wanton and merciless manner, and then drove it, stupified and spent with fatigue, to his lodge, where, amidst the laughter of himself and his kindred, its miseries were at last ended. *Now,' said he, 'I shall know if there be any truth in your sayings; and, whe- ther there be or not, I am a Chipewyan, and shall return to my lands, which are far away, and better than your swampy and barren country.' Did we speak the truth? the deer know it, and will not come." — He ceased speaking, and a deep guttural "whew, whew!" shewed the interest with which the recital had been heard. Another day a middle-aged woman, with a girl about six years old, came to us in great consternation, seeking protec- tion against a hunter, over whose gun she had unluckily stept during the night. On discovering what she had done, which, in the opinion of an Indian, would destroy the quali- ties of the gun and prevent its killing, she was so alarmed for the consequences of her crime, that, though attached to the man, she preferred flight to the chance of what his fury might inflict on her. However, after allowing a reasonable time for the evaporation of his passion, she returned; and as he had, fortunately for her, shot an animal with the same gun since the disaster, she was let off* with a sound thrashing, and an admonition to be more careful for the future. This, ac- cording to Indian law, was most lenient, as the unhappy fe- male guilty of such delinquency seldom or ever escapes with a slighter punishment than a slit nose, or a bit cut off the ears. In the evening of the day on which this last incident occurred, a man, his wife, and three children, sought our hospitality, in a condition which made me grieve afresh that we had so little to bestow. They were the most wretched party of all — mere shadows. The man was reduced to a OK THE ARCTIC SKA. IflT r, and s, ac- py ^®" with flf the cident t our 1 that tched d to a skeleton; and the scanty and tattered covering which served him fora garment, havingbecomc hard and frozen, had, by con- stant friction against his hare legs, produced a dreadful state of excoriation. Nor were the others much better off. Our situation indeed now assumed a serious aspect, and it was im- possible to divest one's self of anxious foreboding for tlie fu- ture. In the midst of this gloom occurred the death of the, wretched old woman before mentioned. In spite of all the care which we could bestow, she had continued to sink under accumulated infirmities and disease: the circulation became languid, and her extremities were severely frost-bitten. Too feeble to raise herself up, sue crawled whiningly along on her hands and knees, with a st'ck to make known her pre- sence, wherever her inclination led her; but chiefly to Mr. King's room, where, once a day, she received the benefit of his humane attention. The most indifferent observer must have been occasionally shocked at the loathsome objects which have met his eye on some parts of the Continent, and particularly at Lisbon; but no form or variety of human wretchedness or degradation that I have ever witnessed could be compared with that which was exhibited in the person of this poor old creature. The effect of her appearance, — the involuntary shuddering which it caused, may perhaps be con- ceived, but cannot well be described. What a contrast be- tween her and the young girl standing erect and full of juicy life by her side! What a rebuke to the pride of lordly man! She was found in her hut, stretched dead by the fire, near which were several pieces of spare wood. Among the In- dians the event occasioned not the slightest feeling; and as she had no relations, it is doubtful whether she would even have be%n buried, had we not taken that office on ourselves; an office which, though difficult at this time, on account of the frozen state of the ground, was necessary, to preserve her remains from the starving and voracious dogs. # if 168 JUUKNEV TO THK SH0R£9 The anxiety I began to feel, respecting the actual condi- tion of the main body o|the Indians with Akaifcho, whom we supposed to be in quest of deer to the westward, was so great, that Mr. M'Leod, with much kindness and spirit, volunteered to go in search of them, and by his presence en- courage and incite them to exertion. He left us on the 18th of December, accompanied by the interpreter and an Indian lad, who the previous morning had received a cudgelling for thieving. The vf^ry next day, one of our men, who had been with Akaitcho, arrived with a small quantity of half- dried meat, which he had dragged eight days' march. :.| From him we learned that the deer were rather numerous than otherwise, but that they continued to linger on the verge of the barren lands, to the surprise of the Indians, who declared this to be the first time they had deviated from their habit of seeking the shelter of the woods atiChisi inclement period of the year. They were very poor,*,^e said, but plenty were shot; and would have been stent to. .^he Fort, if the distance had been less: as it was, the persons, employed to bring it would necessarily eat all or the greater part of their loads on the way, and therefore the meat wfts put en cache for our future use. All this was very well, but did not minister to our present need; and as for caches^ in a neighbourhood of wolvereens, I knew that little dependence could be placed on their security, however carefully made. Still, the knowledge that the animals were within reach, and had not entirely left us, was enlivening; and though not sanguine, yet I saw no reason to despair of finally'making up our original stock of coast provision. In the meantime, and before this dream could be realized, we were mortified and enr.barrassed by the return of the whole of the people station- ed at one of the fisheries, which was described as being totally *■'>■; : OF THE ARCTIC SUA. 169 unequal to their support, having yielded only three or four fish a day for the last fortnigiit. Casualties such as these, coming in quick succession, were not a little harassing: my plans and prospects underwent continual change from circunn- stances which no foresight could anticipate; and when I thought myself most safe, I was, perhaps, in the greatest danger. However, it was of no use to sit still and mope. Action, if it had no other clfect, would at least keep up the spirits of the men, and divert their thoughts from the priva- tion which they were sutfering. Accordingly they were again divided, one party being directed to take their nets and proceed to the only remaining fishery, and tiie other to make (he best of their way to the Indians. and Our hall was in a mar,i.r filled with invalids and other stupidly dejected beings, who, seated round the fire, occu- pied themselves in roasting and devouring small bits of their reindeer garments, which, even when entire, afforded them a very insufficient protection against a temperature of 102° Ae- low the freezing point. The father torpid and despairing— the mother, with a hollow and sepulchral wail, vainly en- deavouring to soothe the infant, which with unceasing moan clung to her shrivelled and exhausted breast — the passive child gazing vacantly around; such was one of the many groups that surrounded us. But not a murmur escaped from the men. When the weather was a little milder, we took them into the store, and showing them our remaining pro- vision, represented the necessity of their making an effort to reach Akaitcho, where their own relations would supply th m plentifully: for, trifling as was the pittance dealt out to the n by us, yet it contributed to the diminution of our stock, and it was evident that by strict economy alone we. could get through the season at all. With the apathy ^'o> strikingly characteristic of the inert and callous savige, to 22 !■ ! m 1' 1 ...i: 170 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES Uf' ■;■ '4^,y.i ■M:^:- 'U M: m "'■■:. whom life itself is a thing scarce worth preserving, some de- clared they could not, and others that they would not go. This obstinacy compelled me to reduce their allowance, a measure of necessary rigour, which ultimately drove the stronger away, and left us more means to nourish and sup- port the weaker. Mr. King was unremitting in his care of those who required medical aid; and often did I share my own plate with the children, whose helpless state and pite- ous cries were peculiarly distressing. Compassion for the full-grown may or may not be felt; but that heart must be cased in steel which is insensible to the cry of a child for food. I have no reserve in declaring the pleasure which it gave me to watch the emotions of those unfortunate little ones, as each received its spoonful of pemmican from my hand. Christmas-day was the appointed time for opening a sol- dered tin case, the gift of a lady at New York; but our com- panion Mr. M'Leod being absent, we thought it fair to post- pone the gratilication of our curiosity till he could partici- pate in it; and Mr. King and I made a cheerful dinner of pemmican. Happiness on such occasions depends entirely on the mood and temper of the individuals; and we cheated ourselves into as much mirth at the fancied sayings and doings of our friends at home, as if we had partaken of the roast beef and plum pudding which doubtless "smoked upon the board" on that glorious day of prescriptive feasting. January, 1834. — Some Indians brought a small supply of meat, half dried and very bad; and by a letter from Mr. M'Leod, I learned that the animals had taken a western di- rection, which, with the coldness of the weather, precluded the possibility of the Indians following them. Mr, M'Leod himself, being a first-rate rifle-shot, had by his personal exer- OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 171 tions already assisted one party, rfhd was going to visit an- other. On the 13th, the women and chihlren were sent to the fishery, and our own allowance was reduced a quarter of a pound each. Another supply of lean and half putrid meat was sent by Akaitcho, which was augmented a few days afterwards by eighty pounds from Mr. M'Leod. He had been to the fishery, ''which,'' he added, "I was sorry to find unproduc- tive, besides being burthened with a number of starving na- tives, who proved expensive and annoying, but are now all away. The dogs can hardly stand on their legs. For the two last weeks I have had much trouble, owing to the im- portunities of the Indians by whom I am surrounded. Some are strangers, but others you have seen. Many are extremely low, but I hope not beyond recovery. From what I have seen of the country, animals arc scarce." At the same time we had accounts of several deaths from famine, with a repeti- tion of the former tales of suffering, which there were but faint expectations of bettering until the weather should be milder. i leated and )f the upon )ly of Mr. trn di- }luded 'Leod exer- A few days exhausted our small stock of meat, and I reluc- tantly opened another bag of pemmican, our store of which was now reduced to less than one half of the quantity origi- nally put aside for tha sea service. Mr. King and I content- ed ourselves witli half a pound each a day; but the labouring men whom we retained with us could not do with less than a pound and three quarters. Even this was but scanty ra- tions; nevertheless, the fine fellows, (principally artillery men,) far from being moody or sullen, were always cheer- ful and in good spirits. It had been my endeavour to foster this feeling of contentment by general kindness, by a regu- I i... k i \ ■ 1 ti 1 'i 1 !, 1 IQ 0 r \ 1 It !• ■1 yr 1 > ^ It!'*'' B'Wr.r,? if'i:^ II £^U- m\ ■■lit 172 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES lar observance of the Sabbith (the service being read in Eng- lish and French,) and by the institution of evening schools for Iheir improvement. We had seen the thermometer at 70° below zero, at which time the Aurora was bright. We now made a few experi- ments on the effect and intensity of the cold, the results of vvrhich were as follow: With the thermometer at 62 minus, a square six-ounce bottle of sulphuric ether with a ground stopper, was taken out of the medicine chest, exactly in the same state as it had been packed at Apothecaries' Hall, viz: with the stopper down, and exposed immediately below the registering thermometer on the snow. In fifteen minutes, the interior upper surface of the sides of the bottle was coat- ed with ice, and a thick eflloresccnt sediment covered the bottom, while the ether generally appeared viscous and opaque. After having remained an hour, during which the temperature rose to 60° minus, it had scarcely changed, or, perhaps, as Mr. King agreed with me in thinking, it was more opaque. The bottle was then carefully brought into the house, and placed on a table, within four feet and a half of the fire; and though so near, and with a temperature of 32° plus, it did not recover its former clearness or purity under forty-two minutes. A bottle of nitric ether, similar in dimensions to the sul- phuric, was not changed in the same time; but after two hours' exposure it also became viscid, the temperature in the meantime having varied from 60 to 56 minus. A fluid drachm and a half of sulphuric ether was put into an ounce and a half bottle with a glass stopper; and when it had become viscous the stopper was withdrawn, and a lighted paper ap- plied to the mouth, when it ignited with an explosion and an escape of gas. On repeating the experiment, the ignition did OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 173 not take place until the light was brought into contact with the liquid; but it was accompanied by a similar explosion. A small bottle of pyroligneous acid froze in less than 30 minutes, at a temperature of 57° minus; as did also the same quantity of 1 part of rectified spirit and 2 of water, 1 part of the same and 1 of water. Leeward Island rum became thick in a few minutes, but did not freeze. A mixture of 2 parts pure spirit and 1 water froze into ice in three hours, with a temperature from 65° and 61° minus. Another mixture of 4 parts spirit and 1 water became viscid in the same time. A bottle of nitric ether having been out all night was thick, and the bubbles of air rose slowly and with difficulty; the mean temperature at 6 a. M., January 17th, being 70° mmus A surface of 4 inches of mercury, exposed in a common sauccr, became solid in two hours, with a temperature of 57° minus. On the 4th of February, the temperature was 60° minus, and, there being at the same time a fresh breeze, was nearly insupportable. Such, indeed, was the abstraction of heat, that, with eight large logs of dry wood in the fireplace of a small room, I could not get the thermometer higher than 12° plus. Ink and paint froze. I made an attempt to finish a sketch, by placing the table as near the fire as I could bear the heat; but a scratchy mark, and small shining particles at the point of the sable, convinced me that it was useless. The sextant cases, and boxes of seasoned wood, principally fir, all split. Nor was the sensation particularly agreeable to our w ■1, i g i' ff-y.:.- '■•■ 174 JOURNEY TO THE SHOIIES VA \0 /.§i 1(2' persons; the skin of the hands especially became dry, crack- ed, and opened into unsiglitly and smarting gashes, which we were obliged to anoint with grease. On one occasion, after washing my face within three feet of the fire, my hair was actually clotted with ice, before I had time to dry it. From these facts some idea may, perhaps, be formed of the exces- sive cold. It seemed to have driven all living things from us: we had been accustomed to see a few white partridges about; but even these, hardy as they are, had disappeared. Once, indeed, a solitary raven, whose croak made me run out to look at him, swept round the house, but immediately winged his flight to the westward. Nothing but the passing wind broke the awful solitude of this barren and desolate spot. February 9th. — A little variation was given to our society by the gratifying arrival of Mr. M'Leod, who had preceded a party of men laden with meat. The weather had made a visible alteration in his countenance, which was severely frost-bitten in seven places; nor was it to be wondered at on such a wide unsheltered lake as he had been travelling over, especially when the Indians themselves were unable to bear up against it, but were all, to the number of fourteen, simi- larly lacerated. The latter complained bitterly, and com- pared the sensation of handling the'r guns to that of touching red-hot iron; and so painful was it, ihat they wrapped thongs of leather round the triggers, to keep their fingers from con- tact with the steel. The deer were represented to be plentiful enough, but so restless and difficult to approach that few were shot; added to which, they were edging westerly, and when left were at a distance of fourteen days' journey from the house. Suffer- ing, the Indian'.s inheritance, attended the natives wherever V OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 175 they went. The forest was no longer a shelter, nor the land a support; "famine, with her gaunt and bony arm," pursued them at every turn, withered their energies, and strewed them lifeless on the cold bosom of the snow. Nine had fallen victims already; and others were only snatched from a like fate by the opportune intervention of Mr. M*Leod, in compelling a Chipewyan to return after his wife and child, whom the unnatural monster had abandoned. In another instance, where two of the same tribe had deserted an infirm and starving relative, his efforts were unavailing, for he was found dead m the woods. ^:rii For the neglect or abandonment by the more active hunters of the sick and feeble of their tribe, some allowance may be made, on account of the peculiarity of their circumstances. To follow and keep up with the migratory animals which constitute their food, is essential to the preservation, not only of the hunters themselves, but of the whole encampment. An infirm or diseased savage is not merely useless; he is a positive clog and encumbrance on the motions of the rest. No wonder, then, if occa^onally, in the impatience or ne- cessity of the -hace, he is left behind to the mercy of chance. But there are instances, it; is painful to say, of barbarous outrages for which no such palliation can be found. In my progress through the country, I heard sever: ' stories of transactions among the Indians almost too ' Iting to be mentioned. Others equally shocking were ted to Mr. King; and one in particular, as narrated by JVi . Charles, the factor mentioned above, was so horrible, th; recital, it is to be feared, will excite loath ^ yet I think it right to give it, as illustrativi atrocities of savage life. although the i and disgust, the occasional w». A Cree Indian of the name of Pepper, who had long re- ■■'■, im:'- : 176 JOUKNEY TO THE SHORES E m sided around Chipewyan as a hunter, came to the Fort in November, 1832, after a temporary absence; and, having smoked his pipe, gave a plausible account of severe calami- ties, which had befallen him in the preceding winter. After describing the horrors of starvation in the desolate forest, and his incflectual efforts to ward it off, he said that, worn out, at length, by hunger and cold, his wife, the mother of his children, sunk into a lethargy and died; his daughter soon followed; and two sons, just springing into manhood, who promised to be the support of his old age, — alas! they also perished; lastly, their younger children, though tended by him with unwearied solicitude, and fed for a time on the par'ngs of their leather garments, sunk under their sufferings, and slept with their brethren. ''What could I do?" ex- claimed the man, with a frenzied look that almost startled the hearers,-^"could I look up to the Great Spirit! — could I remain to behold my strength laid prostrate? No! no! One child was yet spared. — I fled for succour. But, oh! the woods were silent, — how silent! — I am here." The boy alluded to was about eleven years of age, and at the close, as during the recital, kept his eyes vacantly fixed on the blazing fire near v^ich he was seated, seeming uncon- scious that the narration was ended, and still listening, as if wailing for some dreadful story not yet told. His father spoke, and hn started; then, having given him a live ember to light his half-emptied pipe, he relapsed into his steadfast gaze of vacancy. /* f Not a word, not a gesture, had escaped the attentive ears and sparkling eyes of some men of his tribe who arrived just as he began to speak. Never was man more patiently listened to; his grief, or the long pauses which counterfeited it, were not once interrupted, except by his own wailings: but whea he OK THE ARCTIC SEA. rfi had concluded, a kind of hollow muttering arose from the grouped Indians; and the spokesman of their number began a speech, at first in a subdued tone, and then, gradiially elevating his voice with the energy of one strongly excited, he finished by denouncing him as a murderer and a cannibal. The accused hesitated a few seconds, mechanically whiffing at his exhausted pipe, — and then, with the most stoical indif- ference, calmly denied the charge. But, from that instant, his spirits fell; and the anxious and painful expression of his countenance, whenever his son wa» absent for a moment, betrayed the consciousness of guilt. He could no longer look his fellow man in the face. Those who had roused this inward storm kept aloof, as from a poisonous reptile; and, having '^'^'♦^ained the trifling articles which they wanted from the si r , returned to their hunting. and at y fixed uncon- g, as if father ember :eadfast tars and 1st as he Ined to; lere not [hea he The wretched man lingered about the Fort for some time, and at length, accompanied by his boy, sulkily left it. '"Back to the thicket slunk The guilty serpent." But by a strange infatuation (such are the mysterious ways of Providence,) instead of seeking some lonely place where he might have hid his guilt, and lived unmolested, he went to the lodges of the very persons whom he had most cause to avoid, — the men who had branded him as a marderer and cannibal. He sought their hospitality, and was admitted j but an in- 23 V : ,1"' 178 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES 4.. stinctivo loathing, not unmixed with apprehension, induced them to request his departure. After a slight hesitation, he not only refused, but, assuming a tone of defiance, uttered such threats that the endurance of the Indians was exhausted, and they shot him on the spot. M|i.j m i More ihan one gun having been fired, the boy was also wounded in the arm; and, thinking to mitigate their rage, he fled behind a tree, and offered to confess all he knew, if they would only spare his life. His wish was granted, and then was told the most sickening tale of deliberate cannibal- ism ever heard. The monster had, in truth, murdered his wife and children, and fed upon their reeking carcasses! That tlie one boy was spared was owing, not to pity or affec- tion, but to the accident of their having arrived at the Fort when they did. Another twenty-four hours would have sealed liis doom also. 1:1 ''ii >0 «'is# OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 179 also CHAPTER VIII. Exemplary Conduct of Akaitcho.—Mr. M' Leod and ?ns Family leave tis. — Arrival of Maiifdly. — Supply of Decr-Jlesh. — Misunderstand- in-between Akaitcho and the Interpreter. — Preparutionfor build- ing Two Boats.— Mr. M'Leod's ill Success.— /Strange Conduct of Two Indians. — Supjdy of Food. — Distressing Condition of Mr. M' Leod.— Return of Mr. King'^s Party.— News from York Factory. — T^ncertain Fate of Aicgustus. — Presence of Two Havens.— Pa- rens shot by an Iroquois. — Nexcs from England. — Discharge of Three Men. — Alteration of Plans. — Appearance of Birds. — Adven- tures by Mr. King. — Arrival of Mr. M'Lcod. — An.viety about Wil- liamson.— Sultry Weather. — Melancholy Fate of Augustus. During this appalling period of suffering and calamity, Akaitcho proved himself the firm friend of the expedition. The dawn of each morning saw him prepared for the hunt; and, aware of the heavy pressure of that distress which, though he could not altogether avert, it might he in his power to mitigate, he holdly encountered every difficulty, and made others act by the force of his example. Complaints were incessantly preferred to him by all class- es, young and old; and many would have yielded to their 180 JOURNEY TO THE SHOHES 4 'i ■*>:l,,li \W^' gloomy superstition, had they not been sustained by his lan- guage and fortitude. "It is true," he is reported to have said in answer to one of them, "that both the Yellow Knives and Chipcwyana, whom I look upon as one nation, have felt the fatal severities of this unusual winter. Alas! how many sleep with our fathers! But the Great Chief trusts to us; and it is better that ten Indians should perish, than that one white man should suffer through our negligence and br ach of faith." Mr. M'Leod's observations at the fishery where he had been were too unfavourable to give me any confident hope of receiving support from that quarter; and, under these cir- cumstances, it was consolatory to me that he approved my decision to make a further reduction in our establishment. I say consolatory, because that decision fell particularly heavy on his own family, whom he now offered to remove to a place about half way between us and the Indians, who, he said, would provide him with meat, as the lake would with fish, and in this way the separation might be made still fur- ther subservient to our benefit. Before we parted, however, his daughter, a pretty little girl about six years old, took care to remind me, that I had promised, on her father's return, to open the "boite a fer blanc. " Accordingly, the treasure was explored; and she was not the only one who rejoiced in the sight of a large plum-pudding, to the merits of which practical testimony was borne by the children and ourselves at dinner. Nor did we forget to drink the health of our fair « countrywoman Mrs. Maxwell,* who had so kindly afforded US' this luxurious meal. Mr. M'Leod, during his absence, had not been exempted » * The wile of Captain Maxwell, with whom we crossed the Atlanl ic. ■=-<* OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 181 5 lan- have nives e felt many j; and white ,ch of e had , hope ise cir- ed my lent. I heavy e to a ho, he d with ill fur- ,vever, k care irn, to easure ced in which selves ur fair brdcd Impted from his share of privation, liaviiig been for days together without food; yet, nothing daunted by hardsliips, which lie treated as the ordinary incidents of the service, he and his family, with two men, left us on their cold and comfortless journey, on the 14th of February, about noon. Nothing but a conviction of the importance of this measure, as regarded our future plan;!, should have induced me to consent to this exposure of children to the severities of so cold a month ; but, as every precaution was adopted to prevent ill consequences, I entertained the hope of their getting safely to their destina- tion. The unexpected disasters with which the unhappy beings to the westward had been visited, made me more than com- monly anxious for my former companion, Maufelly, who, with a small party, had gone to the south-east, and had been absent now some months. No intelligence of any kind had been received; and, as they had promised to be at the Fort in January, if alive, we naturally began to have gloomy bodings of what might have happened. Happily, however, we were now relieved from our suspense by the appearance of Maufelly himself, who, with a very melancholy visage, recounted the narrow escape they had had. There was not a track of an animal, he said, to be seen, except at a remote part, bordering on the southern waters of the The-Iew, to which his party could not go. They had therefore wander- ed about until weakness and want had almost killed them, when the sight of some straggling deer stimulated them to exertions which were crowned by success. From his sor-^ rowful looks, we concluded that he had hardly yet recovered from his debility; but, on closer inspection, it was clear that the rogue was in good case; and, when the necessary time for Indian etiquette had expired, he quietly communicated ^*1 4 1 llnnlic. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I lis mm u «» I. lUUU g2j8 |Z5 1 2.2 ii 1.8 1.25 |U III ''^ .4 6" — ► Photographic Sciences Corporation A '^ ^ ,v <> 4 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716)872-4503 #>^ ^4^ •I 'il> ■' R I 182 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES the joyful information that he had five deer killed for us, within a couple of days' walk. - i , \ ■ .% ■ 'i r* ■ :' This was, indeed, a windfall, and we ventured to think that better times were coming. Three men were instantly despatched for as much as they could carry of the precious deposit; and as they left only my servant at the Fort, Mr. King drove the dog sledge for wood, and I made myself as useful as I could. The three men had neither snow shoes nor sleighs; and, when they got to the deep snow filling up the narrow valleys and ravines in the mountains, they were obliged to scramble across by creeping on their hands and knees. In this unsatisfactory and fatiguing manner, they neared the lodge of the Indians; who, as they slipped and sunk into the snow, at every effort to advance, set up loud and merry laughs, but did not fail, nevertheless, to make them welcome to a kettle of prepared meat when they did at last succeed in getting within their humble dwelling. For their return they were provided with snow shoes; and, hav- ing brought part of the meat, we enjoyed with a relish which may be imagined the first steak of fresh meat which we had tasted for three months. On the 23d of February, a party of pur own people also arrived, after fourteen days' travelling, with a small quantity of half-dried meat; in their journey for which they had been three entire days without food. They reported the failure of Mr. M'Leod endeavours to procure fish at his new station; out added, that two of the best men were going from place to place, until they should be more successful. The worst information, however, regarded a misunder- standing between Akaitcho and our interpreter, in conse- quence of which the former, it was said, had declared his OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 183 for us, ) think istantly jrecious rt, Mr. yself as w shoes lling up ey were inds and 3r, they )ped and up loud to make ey did at ig. For ind, hav- sh which we had )p]e also [quantity lad been failure station; im place lisunder- conse- lared his intention to cease acting for us, and to dispose of his "hunt" elsewhere. In our present exigency such a resolution would have been a blow aimed at the very lives of those engaged in the expedition; at best, it was sure to deprive us of the assist- ance which I had calculated on receiving in the spring, for conveying our provision and heavy baggage to the Thlew-ee- choh; so that, in any view, it would paralyse our efforts and frustrate the interesting object of the undertaking. Great, however, as was my anxiety, I derived consolation from the hope that Mr. M'Leod's influence might procure some material modification of the purpose of the unstable chief, if it failed to restore him altogether to his former friendly disposition. The uncertainty of the means of subsistence, and the almost daily distresses and disappointments by which we were harassed, had interfered with many, and altogether marred some, of my plans; among others, the important task of preparing the materials for the construction of two light boats to take us along the coast had been hitherto sus- pended. -The time, however, had now arrived when further delay was impossible. Accordingly, the two carpenters, with Sinclair (a steersman,) were sent to the clump of pines found by De Charloit in September last, and directed to saw sufficient planking for the purpose. The weather having now changed somewhat for the better, a little provision was occasionally brought from one of the hunters; and I looked daily for a large supply from Mr. M'Leod. But, as if it were destined that matters should not go smoothly, intelligence was conveyed that far from being able to assist us, he could get neither fish nor flesh ; and had, as a last resource, been obliged to transfer the men i i M 184 JOUllNEY TO THE SHORES VmV' 1-^ n ffl '■ ' 1^.7 raKi' ,.•! j Hp..><^' ' H ?fm to the other fishery under the charge of M*Kay, for the pre- servation of their lives. In performing this journey, the poor fellows were again three days without food. Two young Indians also came to the Fort about this time, as it appeared to us, solely for ammunition. They saw that our store was empty, and must have understood our distress^ but to our repeated questions as to their success, they uniformly an- swered with apparent indifference, *'Etthen oOlah," — there are no deer. Having been provided with what they required, they were dismissed, and requested to be alert in hunting; but still they answered, **Etthen oolah — tahoutai;"* and with the most stoical composure lounged about the house, or lolled before the fire for full two days, receiving merely such scraps of food as we could spare them. It so happened that at the end of that time, Maufelly arrived with a load of meat, which the others no sooner saw, than they drew out fifteen tongues from a bag hitherto concealed, and placed them on the table without any remark, though we passed and repassed several times. The conclusion was, that they had as many deer in cache, and only wanted somebody to fetch them. When taxed with the folly of their conduct in so serious a case as ours, they answered carelessly that it was their cus- tom, and still cried "Etthen oolah — etthen tahoutai." Hoping that there was now a probability of our obtaining regular sup- plies from the two parties, I was less fearful of increasing my party, and directed four men to come immediately from the fishery, and assist in sledging the meat to the house. The deer were accordingly brought; yet before this welcome labour was completed, I had the mortification of receiving from the Indians on whom I had mainly depended, the unwel- come tidings that the animals had again dispersed they knew * "There are no deer," OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 185 not whither, but that they would give us notice as soon as they had any thing to send. March 13th. — The men, who had been latterly subsisting on a single fish a day, arrived according to their instructions; and that there might be no leisure for brooding over their privations, I sent Mr. King with the whole of them, includ- ing those at the house, to drag the iron work, together with such planking as the carpenters might have ready, to a bay on the western borders of Artillery Lake, where I intended the boats to be built. This was occupation for four or five days, and in the mean- time I fervently hoped that some favourable change miglit take place. Nor in this instance was I deceived; for no sooner had we enjoyed the calm consolation of divine service on the following Sunday, than the yelping of a dog too weak to do any thing else notified the approach of strange feet, and I was met at the hall door by the old Camarade de Mande- ville. Accustomed to see the Indians empty-handed, it never occurred to me to inquire if he had brought any thing; and after the usual bon jour, which these people have learned from the Canadians, I proceeded to explain the reason why he found me alone. "You have no provision then," said he; "tiens! the dogs are eating it;" and opening the door, to my great surprise and no less joy, he pointed to an Indian youth, who was leaning on his gun, and looking at two sledges of dried meat which the Camarade and he had dragged from their lodges, five days' journey distant. The following day I received a further supply from Mr. M'Leod, though with the painful intelligence that he with his family were surrounded by difficulties, privations, and deaths. Six more natives of either sex had sunk under the horrors of 24 I,> ¥■■% 18G JOUUNKY TO TIIK SHORES 4 ' starvation; the nets had failed, and Akaitcho, on whom he relied, (for the old chief had forgotten his hasty expressions and was still faithful,) was twelve days' march away. Dis- tant, however, as he was, Akaitcho had managed to despatch some of the strongest young hunters with a supply of meat, and it was a part of this which was now forwarded to me. Mr. M'Leod's situation was one of great embarrassment. I prevailed on him, therefore, to sacrifice the comfort of being with his family, and to send them to Fort Resolution, to break up the fishery for the present, and stimulate the In- dians to further exertion by keeping constantly near them. March 18th. — Mr. King and his party returned from Ar- tillery Lake, where the requisite articles had been deposited, and the carpenters had begun the boats. On the 26th a per- son arrived late in the evening with the packet from York Factory, which we had been expecting daily for the last six weeks. The happiness which this announcement instantly created can be appreciated by those , .ily who, like us, have been outside the pale of civilization, and felt the blessing of communication with their friends but once through a long twelvemonth. Yet so true is it that "Man never is but always to be blest," that before we had time to congratulate each other, our joy was almost turned into sorrow. The bearer, on delivering the pricket, added, that he believed he had brought only half; that the remainder had been sent from Fort Resolution up- wards of a month ago, under the charge of two men, a Cana- dian and an Iroquois; that these had been accompanied by my old companion Augustus, the Esquimaux interpreter, who no sooner heard that I was in the country than he ex- pressed his determination to join me, and had actually walk- ed from Hudson's Bay with that affectionate intention; that c.a.-. ?U I, '., ill .'.if ■ ' ■ '- ■*■ *r OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 187 the three men, having no language in common, were unable to convey their sentiments to each other; and that having lost their way, two of them, after an absence of eighteen days, found their way back to tiie fort; but without Augus- tus, who they declared persisted, in spite of their entreaties, in his forlorn search. On opening my letters I found this ac- count but too true, and moreover that the brave little fellow had with him, when they parted, only ten pounds of pem- mican, and neither gun nor bow and arrows. n; Three days after the arrival of this sad news the other part of the packet was brought by one of my former men, who had been guided by an Indian; and I then learned from Mr. M'Donell, the gentleman in charge of Fort Resolution, that on the arrival of the Canadian and Iroquois without Augustus, he had the same day despatched two more Iroquois with plenty of provision, and instructions to follow the same track, search for Augustus, and, if found, conduct him to us. But, strange to say, after a similar lapse of time, viz. eighteen days, these two men also made their appearance at the Fort; and Mr. M'Donell had the mortification to hear that they, like the first, had got bewildered, and having exhausted their provisions w5re compelled to explore their way back. An Indian, who happened to be with him at the time, was en- gaged as a guide to the present bearer; and he added, "I hope the packet will reach you safe at last. As no one has come hither from you, I apprehend that poor Augustus has been starved to death." There was, indeed, every reason to fear the worst; but the account of his companions, that they had heard the report of two or three guns in the direc- tion of the place where they had left him, afforded me a fee- ble hope that he might have fallen in with some party, and be yet alive. As far as was in my power I circulated the £act among the Indians, though they were unfortunately i;!i ■fc .; 1 1^' "i, I 188 JOTTRNEV TO THE SHORES far away, and held out an unlimited reward to any who should find and save him. The remly zfal with which Augustus had volunteered to partake the hard fortunes of the service, his attachment and generous devotion to myself, and the pro- bability that his recompense had been a shocking and un- timely death, impressed me with a melancholy that for some time fixed deeply in my mind. • By letters from York Factory, we were informed that the Company's two ships were forced to winter in the bay; — one at Churchill, and the other at Charlton Island, — owing, as was said, to the vast quantity of drift ice which blocked up Hud- son's Straits, and cut oflfall communication with the Atlantic. But I was requested to be under no uneasiness as regarded the expedition, fiince the letters for England were to be sent by Canada, and all my demands would be punctually attend- ed to. pril 20th. — For the last fifteen days our habitation had been rendered more cheerful by the presence of two ravens, which having, by my express directions, been left unmolest- ed, had become so tame as scarcely to move ten paces when any one passed them ; they were the only living things that held communion with us, and it was a pleasure to see them gambol in their glossy plumage on the white snow. ;* 'i A party of men had arrived over night, and amongst them an Iroquois, who, perceiving the birds together, and being ignorant of my wishes, could not resist the temptation of a double shot, and so killed them both. In any other situa- tion such an event would, perhaps, have seemed too trifling to be noticed; but in our case, the ravens were the only link between us and the dreary solitude without, and their loss therefore was painfully felt. Moreover, there seemed OP THE ARCTIC SEA. isy a sort of Irpachery in the act, for the poor birds had been taught to look upon us as friends: their petty thefts were licensed; and their sharp croaking was welcome, jis breaking the monotony of silence. W hen they were gone, I felt more lonely, and the moaning wind seemed as if complaining of the barbarity. April 2.')th. — This was the anniversary of our departure from La Chine. Wc were talking for about the hundredth lime of those kind persons who had come so far to see us away, and had begun to speculate on their different occupa- tions at that very hour, when wc were interrupted by a sharp and loud knock at the door The permission to come in was unnecessary, for the person followed the announcement be- fore the words could be uttered, and with the same despatch thrust into my hands a packet, which a glance sufficed to tell me was from England. "He is returned, sir!" said the messenger, as wc looked at him with surprise. "What! Augustus? — thank God!" I replied quickly. "Captain Ross, Sir — Captain Ross is returned." "Eh! are you quite sure? is there no error? where is the account from?" The man paused, looked at me, and pointing with his finger said, "You have it in your hand, sir." It was so; but the packet had been forgotten in the excitement and hurry of my feel- ings. Two open extracts from the Times and Morning Herald confirmed the tidings; and my official letter, with others from the long-lost adventurers themselves — from Cap- tain Maconochie, Mr. Garry, Governor Simpson, and many other friends, English and American, removed all possible doubt, and evinced at the same time the powerful interest which the event had awakened in the public, by a great pro- portion of whom the party had long since been numbered among the doad. To me the intelligence was peculiarly gratifying, not only as verifying my previously expressed d •» '> 190 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES ^i P'> i"' ' 4 r- 'if 1- ri w ■ * fi?i,'V opinions, ])ut as dcmonstratinfi; the wisdom as well as the hu- manity of the course pursued by the promoters of our expe- dition, who had thereby rescued the British notion from an imputation of indiflerence which it was far indeed from meriting. In the fulness of our hearts, wo assembled to- gether, and humbly offered up our thanks to that merciful Providence, which in the beai:tiful language of Scripture hath said, "Mine own will I bring again, as I did sometime from the deeps of the sea."* The thought of so wonderful a preservation overpowered for a time the common occur- rences of life. We had but just sat down to breakfast; but our appetite was gone, and the day was passed in a feverish state of excitement. Seldom, indeed, did my friend Mr. King or I indulge in a libation, but on this joyful occasion economy was forgotten; a treat was given to the men, and for ourselveri the social sympathies were quickened by a gene- rous bowl of punch. May 5. — David Williamson of the Royal Artillery and two other men were discharged from the service; the former on account of continued ill health, and the latter at their own solicitation. By them were forwarded letters for England. We had now a smart thaw; and patches of green, as well as projecting parts of rocks, were daily becoming visible. Shortly afterwards a letter arrived from Mr. M'Leod containing information, which I had some time anticipated, of the total failure of Akaitcho and his party to collect pro- vision— as well as a hint that the chief had been tampered with, and allowed a part of his hunt to go in another direc- tion. The fact that a portion of the meat had been so di- verted was substantiated, and laid to the charge of a free- man ; but the quantity taken by him was too inconsiderable * Psal. 66. OK TIIK AKCTIC SKA. 191 to be of any consequence, and afForded merely a pretext for Akaitcho, to cover some little infidelities of which, I fear, he had been g'liity. A month before, such intelligence would have caused the bitterest sorrow; but now, when I knew of Captain Ross's safety, it was comparatively of little moment; and I determined at once on going with one boat instead of livo along the coast, selecting the best men for my crew. This, in fact, was the only means left by which 1 could execute my instructions, and discharge the duty that I owed to the public; for though the enthusiasm that had be- fore animated us was now of course much abated, it still set with a strong, because concentrated, stream, towards the re- gion of discovery. The provision that we had still in re- serve was, or could be made, equal to the expenditure of three months for ten persons. The smallness of the p; ty would be more than compensated by the characters of the individuals who composed it — every man in himself a host — experienced voyageurs, good hunters, equal to the most trying situations. There was, therefore, no rational gfound for apprehension tiiat we should be unable to surmount the obstacles of the voyage, though cooped within the narrow space of a solitary boat ou the inhospitable waters of the Arctic sea. The people were regularly employed in dragging the pemmican and baggage to Artillery Lake, where the carpenters had already finished one and half completed the other boat; for though the original plan was relinquished, the second boat, it was thought, would be highly service- able in enabling JVIr. M-Leodto fulfil the instructions which it was my intention to leave for his guidance during our ab- sence. And I now wrote to him, to engage as many young Indians as would undertake to carry a bag (or 90 lbs.) of pemmican each to the Thlew-ee-choh, in direct distance one hundred and fifteen miles. * 192 JOtJUNKY TO THK SHOIIKS I " ♦ »*♦ t^ h. i .. lili}: m^r-'^ I'i'-.' •, i •J On the 13th of May, a sinj^Ie goose, the harhinger of huiu- nicr. Hew past the house; arul (hiring the day it was followed hy five more, all of which took a northerly direction. This was six days later than they had hccn seen in 1820 at Fort Franklin, though a higher northern latitude. A fly and a flock of small l)irds appeared in the evening; and (luring the three succeeding days we had gulls, orioles, grossbeaks, yel- low legs, robins, and butterflies. A small swamp behind the house was the resort of two or three kinds of ducks, some of which were occasionn'ly got by Mr. King, who was a daily visiter amongst them. On one occasion, just as he had hit his bird, his attention was attract- ed by some more in an adjacent pool; so, without staying to pick up his game, he crept towards the others, and as he thought disabled a fine drake. Kager to bag it, he waded into the water, when he was startled by a sharp whizzing noise over his head. This, he soon perceived, was caused by a large white-headed eagle, which was descending with the rapidity of lightning towards the precise spot where lay the duck he had before hit. Impelled by the desire at once to secure the bird for dinner, and if possible to get a shot at the eagle also, he instantly left the wounded drake, and, sans culottes, flew with all speed over patches of hard snow, dashing through the swamp, and arriving just in time to see the powerful marauder quietly sweep off", exactly out of the reach of shot, with the duck firmly grasped in its talons. Having watched it out of sight, he then retraced his steps; and leaving his gun in a dry place, betook himself to the aquatic chase of the drake, which, far from being fluttered or alarmed, remained motionless, as if waiting to be taken up. Still, as he neared, it glided easily away through innumera- ble little nooks and windings, with all the confidence of a ,*, . . >. OK THK AllCTU; SKA. 103 branch pilot. Several times ho extended his arm to c ch it; and iiaving at last, with tjfreal ])atienr«', muna^cd to coop it in a corner, from which there appeared to he no escape, he was triumphantly hendinj; down to take it (gently, however, aa he wished to preserve it for a specimen,) when, to his utter astonishment, after two or three flounders, it looked round, cried "quack," and then (lew otf so stronu;ly that he was convinced he had never hit it at all. 'I'he .)hject of the drake had clearly heen to draw Mr. Kinj^ away from its com- panion, of whose fate it was unconscious; indeed, so attached arc these hirds at certain seasons, that it is no uncommon circumstance, when oin; has heen shot, for the other, espe- cially the male, to linger ai)out its struggling partner, exhi- biting the greatest distress, until either killed or frightened away. Sometimes in such cases they will dive to avoid the shot, h, refuse to fly; as in an instance where one remained to be fired at no less than five times. On the 18th May, the catkins of the willows were half an inch long, and the snow was fast disappearinj!; from the ground. On the 25th we also welcomed the arrival of our companion Mr. M'Leod, whose indefatigable endeavours to realize the expectations held out by the Indians of procuring deer, as the warm weather increased, had heen grievously disappointed. He had found his himters indeed as wretch- edly off as could be imagined; so that the winter terminated as it had commenced. Had as this was, the serious appre- hension which he raised in my mind about the fate of David Williamson, the artillery-man, who had been so lately dis- charged, was infinitely worse. It appeared that he had left the fishery with his companions, and two Indians as guides; but, being a slow walker and much encumbered with useless baggage of his own, he had one day sot out first, the route being quite straight; while the others, knowing that they 25 194 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES I ■• could easily overtake him, had loitered in their encampment, perhaps an hour after his departure. Aware of his eccen- tricity, they were not alarmed at not seeing him for the bet- ter part of the day; but as the evening drew in, their fears were excited, and one of the Indians retraced his way, in order to be quite sure that he was not behind among the islands. His search was fruitless, and he very properly re- turned with the information to the fishery. Mr. M*Leod lost not a moment in selecting another Indian to accompany the same person, directing them to ise the utmost vigilance, and holding out the promise of a considerable reward to who- ever should find him. With such an inducement, it was not likely they would leave any part unexamined; and, accord- ingly, after an absence of three or four days, they returned to the fishery with the assurance that he had not stopped be- tween their last encampment and the islands, from which the traverse is made to the south shore; on the contrary, they concluded that he had crossed over, and made the best of his way to Fort Resolution. For my own part I much doubted this; but, at all events, it was consolatory to know that he had a compass, and was not destitute of provision. Towards the end of the month, the weather became sultry, the temperature in the sun being 106°; an extraordinary con- trast to that of the 17th January, when it was 70° below zero. The snow was all gone, except that which had been drifted to a great depth in the narrow valleys, and under steep precipices; and the Ah-hel-dessy, to the westward, had burst its icy fetters, and opened a clear channel to the portage opposite the house: loons, gulls, and ducks took possession of the water, and seemed to contend which should make the most noise; some small birds also, very prettily marked, hovered about a short time, and then both they and the ducks suddenly deserted us. Akaitcho and thirty of his tribe ar- i'>. OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 195 rived, empty-handed, and were followed by a couple of young Chipewyans, who brought a little dry meat from the Yellow Knife River, where one of their party had d.ed from want. On the 3d June, the whole of the men came in from the fishery, and brought with them the melancholy tidings, that the Indians had been at Fort Resolution without hearing any thing about poor Williamson, who, it was now conjectured, must have got bewildered among the islands away from the track, or met with some accident so as to incapacitate him from making a fire, and thereby indicating his situation. The remains of Augustus also had been discovered not far from the Riviere h. Jean. It appeared that the gallant little fellow was retracing his steps to the establishment, when, either ex- hausted by suffering and privation, or caught in the midst of an open traverse in one of those terrible snow storms which may be almost said to blow through the frame, he had sunk to rise no more. Such was the miserable end of poor Au- gustus!— a faithful, disinterested, kind-hearted creature, who had won the regard not of myself only, but I may add of Sir John Franklin and Dr. Richardson also, by qualities, which, wherever found, in the lowest as in the highest forms of social life, are the ornament and charm of humanity. lortage session .e the irked, I ducks be ar- These were not very cheering auspices for the eve of our departure; but past griefs must yield to present necessities, and the sharpness of the feeling gradually wore off under the pressure of mental and bodily occupation. By the 5th June, I had got Mr. M'Leod, the Indians, and all the men but three, from the Fort. It was arranged that the former, with a chosen party, should precede us to hunt, and should make caches of meat along the line of route, so as to save the pem- 19G JOITKNEY TO THE SHORES mican; while the other Indians, with part of the men, should assist in dragging the baggage. One Indian was left with us as a guide; but his friends were scarcely out of sight, when he began deliberately to pack up, with the intention of fol- lowing them. This caprice, (for he had remained volunu- rily,) was owing, it seemed, to distrust of the constancy of his young wife, who was somewhere to the north; and it was only by threatening to discharge him altogether from the service, that I could prevail on him to stay. We had in vain tried every allurement to induce some Indian family to remain and take care of the establishment during the absence of Mr. M'Leod: no temptation was strong enough to entice the poorest among them to accept of so dangerous a trust; all agreeing that it would be impossible to procure a liveli- hood there at this season of the year. No more convincing proof can be given of the wretched poverty of the country; for the people will suffer any privation short of death to ob- tain their favourite tobacco, ammunition, and clothing; and as it is acknowledged that an Indian can live where a wolf would starve, the neighbourhood of our residence must be a miserable spot indeed. I was consequently obliged to trust to chance for the safety of the papers containing the obser- vations, journal, drawings, and survey. A platform was erected in the hall, on which the remainder of our stores were deposited, and carefully secured against wet, and ma- rauding wolvereens. Some things were lowered into a cellar, the opening of which was closed and nailed down. The stronger boxes we piled into a heap, and covered with a tar- paulin; and a very small quantity of brandy, which we were unable to take, though not unwilling, had economy permitted, to drink, was buried "full five fathom" — then, and not till then, being considered safe from biped or quadruped, Indian or bear. f '* OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 197 should t with , when of fol- oluniu- incy of and it r from had in tnily to absence ) entice a trust; a liveli- vincing ountry; h to ob- ng; and 3 a wolf ust be a to trust ! obser- nvi was stores ,nd ma- cellar, The a tar- e were itted, not till Indian It now only remained to block up the windows and doors; which done, the four persons remaining with me, including the guide, were laden with burdens of ninety pounds each, and two dogs, equipped with saddl6 bags, carrying meat for the journey; and thus appointed, I left Fort Reliance, accom- panied by Mr, King, a little past noon of the 7th June. 198, JOURNEY TO THE SHORES 1' i ■ W " W ■ mil -f P . W' ' Wb ^BJiffij P'^ B''V Wx -^ nHlivKi ©A ■ CHAPTER IX. Reflections.— Halt for the Night.— March resumnl.— Obstacles en- countered.— The Boats finished. — Eastern Shore of Artillery Lake. —Pursue the Track of Mr. M'Leod.—Two Deer shot.— Stunted Pines. — Encampment. — Difficulty in tracing our Route. — Ne\cs from Mr. M'Leod. — .4 Snoic Storm.— Fires lighted on the Hills. — Accident to Peter Taylor.— Deviate from our Course.— Accident to James Spence. — Boisterous Weather. — Plunder of a Cache. — Find the runaway Guides. — The Ice unsafe. — Enter upon Lake Aylmer. —A dense Fog.— Sand-hill Bay.— Judicial Investigation.— Animals. —Musk-ox Rapid.— Join Mr. M' Lead.— Survey of the River.— In- dians return with the Pemmican.— Stock of Provisions. — An Indian Belle.— A Reindeer Hunt. There is something exciting in the first start even upon an ordinary journey. The bustle of preparation — the act of departing, which seems like a decided step taken — the pros- pect of change, and consequent stretching out of the imagi- nation— have at all times the effect of stirring the blood, and giving a quicker motion to the spirits. It may be conceived then with what sensations I set forth on my journey into the Arctic wilderness. I had escaped from the wretchedness of a dreary and disastrous winter — from scenes and tales of suf- OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 199 fering and death — from wearisome inaction and monotony — from disappointment and heart-sickening care. Before me were novelty and enterprise; hope, curiosity, and the love of adventure were my companions; and even the prospect of difficulties and dangers to he encountered, with the responsi- bility inseparable from command, instead of damping rather heightened the enjoyment of the moment. In turning my back on the Fort, I felt my breast lightened, and my spirit, as it were, set free again; and with a quick step, Mr. King and I (for my companion seemed to share in the fnrling) went on our way rejoicing. icles en- ry Lake. -Stunted e.-—News e Hills.- ^ccident to e.—Find Aylmer. Aniinals. ver.—In- \n Indian Taking a northerly direction through the woods, we soon got into a succession of swamps; then ascended steep rocks; and subsequently gained a sight of the Ah-del-dessy, which seemed in that part to be navigable, though, from the noise, it was certain that a heavy fall was not far distant. We pass- ed many sand-hills, variegated by the arbutus plant, called, as I have elsewhere said, by the traders "sac k commis," cranberry and crowberry. These hills were generally hem- med in by broken cliffs of red felspar and barren granitic rocks, with here and there thick masses of snow filling up their chasms, or sloping from the lower parts of vertical pre- cipices. A few old tracks of deer were seen near them. en upon le act of Ihe pros- le imagi- 3od, and Lnceived 1 into the iness of ts of suf- The oppressive sultriness of the weather having affected my servant so much that he was unable to proceed, we halt- ed; and as we had no tent, we took up a position for the night on a smooth carpet of reindeer moss, under the thick and spreading branches of a tall pine. A few willows grow- ing round the margin of the small lakes we had passed were not so forward as those at the house, though the latter, pro- bably nipped by the north-east winds which had latterly pre- vailed, had made little progress in the shooting of the cat- 'i*.)! .V i 4 200 J0URNE7 TO THE SHORES H ||/5v :% tu f ^M '''■1 iV^ I^^U f: kins; indeed, one flower only had blown, and the green buds of the dwarf birch were but just perceptible. Whether this was owing to the accidental lateness of the season, or to poverty of soil, I cannot take upon me to determine; but it may not be out of place to mention, that some cress sown in a box, in the best earth that could be found, never came to perfection, at least in three weeks' trial, though it was care- fully kept in a warm room at night, and exposed to the sun during ihe day. The only green observed along our route was in the arbutus and the younger firs; all besides wore the sombre brown of an advanced autumn. A smart fall of rain in the night reminded us that we were out of our rooms; and this, or, it may be, the excitement of getting away, banish- ed sleep from my eyes. Nevertheless, I endeavoured to cheat myself, by fancying drowsiness; and had just arrived at the falling-ofi'point, — a kind of misty half-consciousness, — when a white partridge came burring within five paces of us, and rang such an alarum that no fewer than three heads were simultaneously popped up, to discover the cause of this un- welcome disturbance. Our march was resumed at 3 o'clock of the following morning, by descending one side and scrambling up the other of a very deep ravine, thickly interlaced with under- wood, through which we had much trouble to get our dogs; but the greater misfortune was the weakness of my servant Malley, which by 6 o'clock had increased so much as to oblige him to stop altogether. Believing that his indisposi- tion was attributable to confinement and sedentary occupa- tions at the Fort during the winter, and that a few days would restore him, I requested Mr. King and one of the men to stay with him, using their discretion in coming forward; while I, with the Indian and the remaining man, pushed on as quickly as possible to Artillery Lake. OP THE ARCT"; SEA. 201 Our way lay through swamps, covered with what the In- dians call women's heads, which arc round hummocks of moss-covered earth, the bases of which are reduced by the action of the surrounding water to about one-third of the diameter of their surface, yet strong enough, owing to the fibrous roots which they contain, to keep upright; being, in short, something like a large mushroom. In crossing the sloppy swamp, the traveller is tempted, by their dry appear- ance, to step upon them; but, unless he tread exactly on the centre, which is a matter of nice judgment and calculation, they invariably fall over, and down he tumbles, or gets an awkward twist; in either case plunging up to the knees, or deeper, into the swamp. My Indian was caught twice, and called out "Sass" (Bear,) the well-known expression of his tribe when not inclined to be over gentle. Acclivitous rocks intervened between the swamps; and in going over their summits, the Ah-del-dessy was frequently seen working its rapid course along the base of the mountain range, which sometimes assumed the vv^ildest character. The space from the spot where I had left the small canoe last year to the first rapid out of Artillery Lake was quite open, and immense quantities of ice were floating down the stream. The temperature was full ten degrees colder than at the house; large masses of ice and snow encumbered the banks or borders of the rocks; and the ice on the lake had not de- cayed nearly so much as was observed at the same season of the year in 1821 at Point Lake, more than two degrees to the north. Tracks of deer were visible at different points; and lead- ing from these tracks the Indians had placed rows of moss on the ice, to keep the timid animals in a particular direction. In the evening we reached the bay, and found that the car- 26 * 202 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES k I- K f w pcntcrs had just completed the hoats, which, considering tiic knotty and indifferent material of which they were construct- ed, did much credit to the buiklers. They were precisely such as I required; being sharp at both ends, with good beam, and plenty of floor for stowage: my only apprehension was that they were weak. The one selected for the voyage was thirty feet over all, and twenty-four feet keel: extra oars, masts, tiller, &c. were prepared, and the bottom of the boat was paid over with a coating of tar. I ought to mention, also, that in conformity with my directions, the lower part was carvel, and the upper part clinker-built; for as the car- penters were neither of them strong enough to be included, however desirable it might have been, in the number of my picked crew for the expedition to the sea, I thought that, in case of accident, the former construction would be repaired more easily, and with less loss of time, than the latter. It had, besides, this advantage, that there were no overlapping edges, which might catch against the stones in the rapids. My first care was to despatch three smart men to assist in bringing up Malley; and at 4 p. m. the following day, the whole party arrived with Mr. King, who reported that his patient would be unable to perform any duty for several days; a circumstance untoward enough, when every man was re- quired to drag forward his allotted proportion of baggage. Mr. M'Leod had left only two days before; and, on exam- ining what pieces he had taken, I was rather chagrined to find that what remained was more than could be convenient- ly carried by us at one trip; and as the arrangements had been definitive, there was no alternative but to make two, which was, in other words, trebling the distance. The even- ing was ppssed in getting every thing ready for our depar- ture, and to each of the eight men who wei;o to compos" the boat's crew were given a new gun, powder-horn, &c. •» OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 203 My old guide Maufelly, with another Indian, had heen se- lected to show us the nearest cuts, and now promised to hunt a little a-head of us. Accordin|i;ly, at 3 30' a. m. of the 10th of June, the larger boat was dragged about three quarters of a mile through a half-dry swamp, and over some rocks to Artillery Lake, where she was placed firmly on runners plated with iron, and drawn over the ice by two men and six fine dogs. The smaller boat was launched into a pool, where she would be quite safe until required in the autumn. By 8 A. M. each man had his runner laden with something less than a hundred pounds weight; when leaving Mr. King to superintend the transport of what yet remained, I took the party forward, intending to send them back so soon as we had attained the appointed distance; which, for the accom- plishment of my object, would not be less than from six to nine miles. The scene was new to every one but myself, and I took care to encourage the mirth which the grotesque and awkward attitudes of slipping people continually excited. The runners appeared to slide oasily, and for half an hour a brisk pace was kept up. By degrees, however, it slackened, on account of the badness of the ice, which was literally a bed of angular spikes, of many shapes and sizes, but all so sharp as to make mere walking a most painful and laborious operation. From the same cause the runners were also peel- ed, or otherwise much injured; and it was easy to foresee their speedy destruction, unless timely measures were adopt- ed to prevent it. Iron seemed to be the only effectual de- fence, but we had none left, except one large saw, which it was thought might answer, if the carpenters could manage to cut it into the proper breadths and lengths. Our prospect of reaching the portage of the Thlew-ee-choh on the ice depended entirely on the soundness of our tackle, and this early assault on the wood showed mc the necessity .• 904 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES Itt ■ of devising some method of protecting it, either with the saw, or, failing that, with reindeer horn, bones, or binders of birch. Wc halted, consequently, at the end of six miles; and the people, after a couple of hours' rest, returned to Mr. King, who was desired to set the carpenters immediately to work about the saw, and to join me as soon as convenient with the rest of our provision. This, indeed, made the bulk of our baggage; for in services like this only a very limited wardrobe can be allowed; and having set the example of taking only one change of linen, flannels, and a few pair of moccassins for my own use, the others were, of course, obliged to submit to a correspondent limitation. I'iC'i ■'I, iM^ The eastern sliore of Artillery Lake, which we now fol- lowed, was less rocky than its opposite, being composed principally of smooth rounded hills, covered with verdure and large stones, many of which were ranged on the sum- mits, presenting a bold contrast to the yellow sky behind. During the night the thermometer fell to 28°; and in the morning (June 11th) I took a stroll with my gun, with the double object of procuring, if possible, a change of food, and observing what effect the early sun would have upon the ice. In the first, I failed; but as to the second, I succeeded in con- vincing myself that it would be injurious to the men, and very soon knock up the dogs, to persist in travelling through the heat of the day; and that it would be better, therefore, to reverse the order of marching and rest, and to take advan- tage of the fresh air of the night. In the afternoon Mr. King and his party arrived, having succeeded in converting the pit saw to the purpose required. All were immediately at work in shoeing their respective runners; after which, having rested until 9 p. m., we started again. To husband the pemmican, which, from the want of other r •V. '«/ OP THE ARCTIC SF,A. 20.1 e saw, Jers of miles; to Mr. itely to venient he bulk limited Tiple of ' pair of course, now fol- Dmposed verdure he sum- behind, d in the mth the ood, and the ice. i in con- len, and through lerefore, e advan- )on Mr. verting ediately which, provision, was already in consumption, I was desirous of fol- lowing, as nearly as possible, llie track of Mr. M'LcdiI, who had been instructed to put conspicuous marks wherever be had made a cache for us. Hut, as this would necessarily lead us round all the bays of the main shore, and greatly increase the distance and fatigue of the journey, I determined on un- dertaking it myself, with one man selected for the purpose, leaving directions with Mr. King to proceed with the boat, &c. in a straight line from point to jwint, until he should see signals to guide him to the caches, or to encamp. The air was keen, even to freezing; the ice hard, and galling to the feet. Indeed, the sensation was like that of treading on sharp palisades: but the runners now slipt smoothly over it, and opposed considerably less resistance to the men, who be- gan to talk of carrying heavier loads, so as to avoid the fatigue of returning for the baggage left behind at every en- campment. The land had a uniform and uninteresting out- line, with here and there a dark clump of pines, though these began now to be less frequent. After four hours' brisk walk- ing in the night, — but not in the dark, for it was quite light all the time, — we stopped at the mouth of a small river, the banks of which it was thought might produce a little wood; and on inspecting some recent marks, the place was found to have been an encampment of Mr. M'Leod. The sun rose at 2 15' A. M. due north by compass. The boat arrived safely, but somehow or other the men had contrived to break the runner; so having harnessed the dogs to single sledges, they were despatched to the carpenters with orders to take the present and only opportunity of supplying themselves with what wood might be required for the reparation of the sledges, &c. By 10 a. m. all the things were brought. lof other During our march five deer and some geese had been seen, but no other animal, except two mice, which were making a ^^1. J' ■ « 1) ■ H \i ;} 1 .t'- »;• I 806 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES rather hazardous traverse across the ice; one little adventurer of the same family was found dead, (apparently drowned,) at the distance of a full mile from the nearest land. I had been trying for a trout in the river, and happening; to espy in the sand an old copixir kettle, much hruiseil, I had the curiosity to take it uj); and hearing something rattle within, I had it forced open, when it was found to contain thirty- four balls, a file broken into three pieces, an awl, a fire-steel, and a crooked knife. Tliis, to an Indian valuable property, had apparently been thrown away, according to the custom unfortunately prevailing with that people, either as an expi- atory sacrifice for some calamity, or as a token of extreme affliction for the loss of a wife or child. At 9 p. m., the boat's runners having been re])aired, and the dogs' feet cased with leather shoes, wo recommenced the route; and soon after- wards being attracted by some stones piled upon an island, from which bits of moss laid in a line led to the shore, I ex- pected to have discovered a cache; ' it my attendant (a half- breed) and I sought in vain for the wislied-for treasure: we saw, indeed, an Indian encampment, where a deer had been killed, and the traces of a sledge near the shore, and hence surmised that our store had been pilfered. Before morning, however, we were compensated for the disappointment by the acquisition of two deer, shot by Sinclair and Taylor. t. ■'■•'' June 13th. — The few trees now met with were stunted pines, from three to six feet high, spreading much at the base or near the root, and generally dead at the top. They were seen only on sand-hills, near small rivulets, or (very rarely) on some moist declivity. The double trips fatigued the people so much, that I acquiesced in their request to be permitted to take additional burdens, and travel more slowly, on condition, however, that they were to make good a greater distance each journey; and at the usual hour this plan was :> . OF TlIK AllCTIC SKA. 807 put into execution, and apix-an-d liki-ly to answer. Sonto marks led us to a cache; and a^;ain, at niidnigiit, we fonnd a second, the moat of which I caused to he j)hic('d on tltc ice, so that the main party might not he drawn asidi; from tiieir course. The eastern hmd now hecamc hroken into hays so irre)j;u- lar in their form as to lead us more than once astray, and oc- casion some dilliculty in fnuling Ihe ri^ht track; indeed, tlio continued absence of Maufelly and his companion was what I had not calculated upon, though I still hoped they would be found at an appointed place, near.the entrance of the next river. [stunted at the They Ir (very [atigued it to be slowly, [greater Ian was We encamped this day (June 1-1) at the point of a large opening leading to the eastward, and the greater proportion of the men came up in tolerably good condition, considering the badness of the ice, tiie spikes of which were just soft enough to allow the runners to cut through, instead of sliding over it, increasing thereby the labour of getting along. It was past noon when the carpenters, who were always the last, arrived; one of them was so affected by the glare of the ice as to be almost unable to sec, and would fain have excused himself on that account from taking any share in the work. He had, however, brought the evil on himself by not keep- ing pace with his comrades in the night march, which he could well have done, as he had a much lighter load to drag, and his strength was unimpaired; so, notwithstanding his complaints, he was obliged to take hold of a cord made fast to his brother's sledge, and to drag his burden as usual. Indeed, squeamishness is little heeded in such travelling as this, and shirking is quite out of the question. I could not dispense with the duty of a single individual, as an exact P'^'^^' fP- I ':■ 308 JOURNEY TO TIIK SHORES distribution luul been made of the baggage, from which any deviation might liavc seriously aflboted our future operations: each day's distance, moreover, was marked out, and it was only by a rigid observance of these arrangements that I could expect to reach the Thlcw-ee-choh on the ice. In short, in my case, as I have elsewhere said, pity for tempo- rary ailments might be felt, but was not to be expressed; the restraint, however painful, being absolutely indispensable. f 't . t ».' ' ' In the course of the night the weather became overcast and threatening; and being perplexed as to the most direct route, from the seeming continuity of the land to the east- ward, as well as the deep bays and strange sand-hills in the same quarter, I made for two dark points that stood out boldly from the opposite western shore, in the conviction that the track would cither be found there, or that I should recog- nise some objects which might lead me to it. The sky was extremely lowering, with a cold northerly wind; and a small sleet falling, mjide the ice so slippery that the dogs were much fagged. The points, when reached, proved not to be islands, as I had conjectured, but the extreme promon- tory of an extensive bay. I therefore ascended the highest hill near me, and perceived that wo were actually on the western main shore; though, so great is the difference be- tween a summer and winter prospect, and so deceptive an appearance does the snow give to heights, that I could not, by any strain of memory, recollect the outline of a single part, the whole being, in fact, entirely changed. Neverthe- less, we were fortunate enough to hit upon the right course; and, after some hard walking, were stopped by a ridge or barrier of ice and a lane of water, which compelled us to make a long detour before the line of route could be re- covered. In doing this, we got sight of two sand-hills, which I remembered; and about 4 a. m., June 15th, we en- OP THE ARCTIC SEA. :o9 ::h any ations: it was that I !e. In tempo- lecl; the ;nsablc. jvcrcast ;t direct the east- s in the :ood out ;tion that Id recog- Thc sky d; and a the dogs )ved not promon- highest on the •ence be- sptive an (uld not, a single everthc- t course; ridge or led us to 4 be rc- nd-hills, we en- camped under the shelter of a high rocky hill, about a quar- ter of a mile from the river, at v/hich we expected to find the Indians. Had they been with us, much of the late tedious and unsatisfactory march would have been avoided, greatly to the benefit of the feet of all the party; for this con- tinual walking on spikes was certainly doing severe penance, and most sensibly did we feel that two thirds or more of the original distance was yet to be performed. Snow showers ushered in the morning; and, when these cleared off, it was seen that we were on the borders of a swamp, caused by the melting of the snow from the upper lands, which, from the ground unde' ;cath being frozen, col- lected into pools, that slowly dischaij^cd themselves into the lake. There was not the least sign of vegetation, for the sun as yet exerted little influence over the cold and barren soil. Divine service having been performed to the men as- sembled in the tent, the journey was resumed by the liiic of the river. A partial channel in its centre induced me and my attendants to keep to the right bank, which, though it receded to the eastward, offered nevertheless, somewhat higher up, a shorter cut to the other side, the river at the place where we were being of considerable width. The channel, however, led us much farther round than we anticipated, and finally ended near a small rapid, which my party forded; but as a serious loss of time would have attended the attempt to follow us, I hastened back, and directed the boat and sledges to return to the mouth of the river, and go along its western bank. In tlte meantime my party kept to the right, and, on their way, saw occasional traces of Indians, at places where they had been fishing. The ice was more or less decayed, and shelved from the banks, where it was four feet thick, becoming much honey-combed tovvards the middle, where it dipped into the open water of the narrow channel 2r W--A 210 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES 1^1 ■■ formed by the current. Walking, therefore, was painful and dangerous; for so slippery was the surface, that the nicest caution was required to keep our fooling, and a single false step would have sent us sliding into the stream. As some defence to the soles of the feet, I ])laced pieces of un- dressed buffalo skin with the hair on between two pair of moccassins and thick blanket socks, and obtained by this means seniible relief; though, even then, Peter Pindar's pilgrims, and the happy thought of "boiling the peas," pre- sented themselves more vividly to my imagination, than they had ever done before. About 1 A. M. of the 16th, on turning a point, we discern- ed in front of us the usual mark of piled stones, and soon in- creased our store with two deer, a quantity just enough for as many days' consumption. I learned from a note, that Mr. M'Leod's party were living upon the chance of the day, feasting or fasting, as it might happen, with seldom enough and never too much; but this was the fifth cache he had made, so that we had passed two unnoticed. For, under the circumstances which have been mentioned, could this be wondered at, though, as may easily be believed, a keen look- out had been kept. Deer, it was added, were scarce; but the Indians held out hopes of overtaking large herds in the course of a few days, and for that purpose intended to make a straight route to the next lake, keeping along its western shore, in which line I should find whatever they were fortu- nate enough to kill. The many interruptions of the ice, over which the boat had to be dragged, caused frequent delays, and it was late before she came up. Here, therefore, we encamped; and after a short repose, proceeded to caulk the boat in several parts, to prepare her for the water, which was now suili- OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 211 ciently unobstructed to admit of her being towed along shore. The morning was gloomy in the extreme, and snow fell so thick as to cover the hills again with their wintry garment. By 5 p. M. the boat was ready, launched, and every thing stowed in her, the bow and steersman alone remaining on board, while the others hauled her along with a tracking line. The water was a great deal lower than in the autumn, so that, on arriving at the first rapid, some trouble and waste of time were experienced in ascending its contracted and furious tor- rent. Once the boat grounded, the line broke, and only by jumping out was the bowman enabled to save her from being driven on the rocks; and such was the immense force of the water, that it was not until she was lightened of her cargo that the men succeeded in hauling her up. In doing this, they were obliged to pass along the margin of the ice nearest the stream; and, though five others had done so in safety, yet the sixth (Carron) broke through, and sunk over head: his next companion fortunately 'ooked behind him at the mo- ment, and on his re-appearaiice instantly seized him by the arm, and saved him from being swept away by the current. The weather, always cold and gloomy, soon became squally, which, at about 9 p. m., settled into a storm of sleet and wet snow, coming from ahead, which, driving upon our faces, so injured our eyes that we were frequently compelled to turn round to shelter and recruit them. A second rapid was gained, and, the channel about it being interrupted by ice, the former plan of dragging the boat on runners was again resorted to. In less than an hour, a third rapid made it ne- cessary again to launch her, which having surmounted, we got fairly on the lake, not far from the island where, last season, I had made my cache of pemmican. It was here that I depended on finding our two Indians; and, as they mm'' WiM'4 mm : i l-i'ii U4 t 1, lir J 212 roUKNEY TO THE SHORES 4 might bo either asleep or ntfnting, I encamped, to give them an opportunity of seeing the white tent, which, on the barren lands, was a conspicuous object. The tliermometcr stood at 33°, with snow, and a raw cold wind that pierced tiirough us in spite ol' cloaks or blankets. It was two o'clock in the morning; and, as I had not yet dined, certain internal gnawings began to intimate the pro- priety of supplying the organs of digestion with some occu- pation which might keep them from quarrelling among them- selves. Oh ! thought I, for a cheerful fire, and a warm com- fortable meal! Accordingly, having managed to collect a beggarly account of wet branches, we applied ourselves, with laudable zeal, to ignite and blow them into a flame. The moss and shrubs were saturated, and would not burn; but it was fondly imagined that, by dint of perseverjince and reliev- ing each other quickly, the dwarf birch might be importuned into a blaze. We puffed, and it smoked — again, and it light- ed— still more, and it went out: the puffmg was renewed — it looked cheerful, and wanted only a little more coaxing. "The least thing in the woild," said one, blowing gently, though at the distance of a yard. "Mind what you're about," cried another, — "there! it will go out, — it's all over." "Oh! get out of the way, let me come," bawled a third; and thrusting himself forward, applied himself to the work with such vigour and force of lungs, that the few em- bers yet living flew scattered about like the sparks of an ex- ploded cracker. "We cannot make a fire," said my servant to me, who had been latterly a passive though not an unin- terested spectator of the proceeding; "but I have brought you some pemmican and a little cold watery Sir." As the Indians did not make their appearance by the fol- lowing noon, the men were sent to light large fires with the J them barren iw cold ankets. lot yet he pro- le occu- g them- m com- oUect a es, with i. The i; but it i reliev- )ortuned iitlight- lewed — oaxing. gently, you're it's all awled a llf to the 'ew em- an ex- servant In unin- Ibrought Ithefol- nth the OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 213 moss, which by that time was dry on the neighbouring hills; a well-understood signal, which, if tlioy v'cre within sight, would immediately bring llioni in. I was the more anxious about Ibis, as, without llicir assistance, on a lake of such magnitude as the one before us, and so full of intricacies as to have more than once, on the expedition of last year, be- wildered Maufelly himself, wc could not hope to find the way correctly, at least without vexatious delays and many useless perambulations. In summer there would have been perhaps little dilliculty; but it was now like a strange coun- try, for so complete is their transformation that the natives themselves, accustomed as they are to the character of the country, sometimes go astray. To have followed the main western shore would have greatly increased the distance, and, indeed, would not have answered, since the Thlew-ee-choh lay to the eastward of north, and at a part where the traverse is so wide that a free horizon intervenes between the oppo- si ;e shores. Under these circumstances I determined, if the Indians should not come, to make as straight a course as was consistent with the bends and windings of the land. To give them a further chance, for it never entered into my imagina- tion that they had deserted us, I remained all night; and this the more readily, as the weather was so cold as to make it desirable to court the pale sunshine of the day. At length, wearied with waiting, we commenced the jour- ney at 10 A. M. of the ISth June, in the accustomed line of march, except that I now preceded as guide, having de- puted others to look out for the caches. The thermometer at 36°, with a strong N. W. gale blowing, made it necessary to defend the eyes from the sharp drift that beat upon them; and going entirely from memory (for, depending on the In- dians, I had not thought it worth while to bring my last year's survey,) I can ascribe it only to good fortune that I hit upon 214 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES 4 the rlpjlit course, in a jiart so narrow that the current, which was jicrceptible, had aheady forced an open passage. On the borders of this narrow grew a few straggling willows, and I had nearly run against one before I perceived a note for me stuck into a notch of a projecting branch. It was to apprise us that two caches had l)een made in a bay just passed; and, altliough I thought it likely they would be picked up by those behind, yet, to avoid disappointment, I sent Peter Taylor, one of my party, with the note to Mr. King. He, wishing to sliortcn his distance, ventured on some dark ice (at this season generally rotten), which gave way; and, but that he was a very active fellow, and kept hold of his gun, which stretched across the hole, and so prevented his going under, he would certainly have perished. Mr. King found one of the caches, and despatched a couple of light hands after the other. X It was easier to launch the boat, and pull her as far as the narrow went (about a quarter of a mile), than to drag her along the shelving slips of ice on the banks: this done, she was again placed on the runners, ready for the following day; after which we encamped. A flock of geese, some gulls, and two loons were playing about in the open water, but cautious- ly remained far out of shot. A partridge that I shot was quite white, though those about Slave Lake, near the Fort, were partly brown before we left. ¥ ' The night was bleak and cold, with the same N. W. gale, accompanied by showers of sleet and snow; and so thick and forbidding was the morning of the 19th, that wc did not at- tempt to move before noon when, encouraged by a gleam of stray sunshine, wc determined on setting forward. Accord- ingly, Mr. King went to direct the men, who were a little apart from us, to get ready; and, to his surprise, found them "% OF THE AKCTIC SEA. :15 all snug under their blankets, quite unconscious of the march of time. We were soon ofl"; hut met with great inconvenience, as well as hazard, in consequence of the snow havins; lallcu in such quantitL's as to render the good aiul bad ice undis- tinguishablc, and reduce it to a lottery whether we fell through or not. ^Luckily, nothina; more important befell us than an occasional dip up to the knees: and, as a set-oil", marks, stretching far out on the ice, led us to two line buck deer, which had been shot by JNIr. iSI'Leod himself. I was not at all certain of the route at this point, remember- ing that last year we had gone astray hereabout; and after a tedious march of doubt and jjcrplcxity, I ascended a hill, and discovered that we were too far to the eastward. The course was therefore changed six points, though upon no better ground than personal recollection, which, for the rea- son before stated, viz. the altered [)pearance of the country, was but vague and indistinct. Tiio spot where we were seemed to be about equally distant from the numerous in- dentations of the land, in any one of which the course might lie, and the great similarity in the outline of which made it difficult to select one in preference to another; indeed, our oldest voyageurs confessed themselves unable to determine which was most likely to be right. In this uncertainty I made for a bluff bearing N. V*'.; and, finding no passage at its base, I ascended another high hill, whence I saw a black line of open water, which api)eared to come from the direction of the narrows leading into Clinton-Colden Lake. This supposition was soon after agrecaijly confirmed by the discovery, near the spot which I have iiefore dcscril)ed as the Deer Pass, of a rich cache, containing more than three whole animals, with a note written by Thomas Hassel, a pure Indian, who had been educated at Red River, and en- gaged by me as an interpreter. »■ P- •*'^i^. ' * 216 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES ^1 4 %: : The water and wind together liad so wasted the ice near the bank here, that not unfreqiicntly we had to lift the boat and sledges over dry stones and rivulets to get to the next sheet; and the sheets themselves were so rotten, that on one occasion James Spencc fell through, and got a complete duck- ing before he could be pulled out. liut th^worst was, that this rough highway strained the runners; several of which were already in so indifferent a plight, that we should have thrown them away, if we could in any way have supplied their place. However, the people worked clici rfully, and at 8h. 40m. p. m. we encamped, and immediately set about repairing the runners. As we were now about to traverse Clinton-Colden Lake, it was material, not only to our comfort, but to our successful progress, that we should have fine weather; and many a look was cast to windward to read our fortune in the face of na- ture. But the N. W. gale continued unabated; and the morning of the 20th was squally, dark, and cold, with heavy showers, which contributed more than any thing to the de- caying of the ice, and making it unfit for travelling on. There was no change at noon; but as every hour was of con- sequence, an effort was made to head the gale, which was with difficulty accomplished, the boat being driven greatly to leeward, even with the assistance of extra men bearing up against her. The ice was exceedingly rotten, and twice all but sunk with us, (for in this state it does not break short,) a danger which we endeavoured to avoid by running quickly and with a light step over it. The sledges, though heavier, were in less danger^ because covering a larger space. 4, I took a direction more westerly than that of Maufelly last year, hoping by so doing to shorten the way; in fact, it was matter of mere chance whether, even if I tried, I should t v OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 217 succeed in tracing; his route through a Libyrinth of islands; so that I rather trusted to the compass and my general recol- lection for gi'oping out the way. In the meantime, the weather got worse, and the assistance of every man was re- quired for the boat, Mr. King taking charge of some of the sledges. Nor was it without the most laborious, or, as they called it, A'/Y//;?i?' exertions, that she was at length hauled to a shelter under the lee of a rock, which, though it seemed Jit the distance like the boundary of a bay, was found to open upon a large expanse of lake. As it was now about full moon, we looked for ;i favourable change of the weather, not without some anxiety; for I was apprehensive that, with the constant drcnchings and fatigue together, two or three of the weaker hands might be laid up. But the night was more boisterous than ever, and never was seen a more gloomy sky than that which ushered in Midsummer's-day. It was of a leaden-gray colour, with horizontal streaks of dirty brick- red clouds — except to the north, where, in strong contrast with the cold whiteness on which it rested, were accumu- lated, in one black mass, all the horrors of an hyperborean winter. Hail, snow, and rain pelted us, one after the other, for some time without respite, and then only yielded to squalls that overturned the tent. I watched till noon for some propitious omen, but watched in vain; so, having encouraged the men to stick to their work, we again tried what could be done, though with little expectation of making more than a few miles. At this part the lake was so wide, that between the openings of the land there was every where a clear ho- rizon. With alternate spells and baitings to rest, we gradu- ally advanced on the traverse; and were really making rea- sonable progress, when pelting showers' of sleet and drift dimmed and confused the sight, so as to render it an ex- tremely perplexing task to keep even near the course. To- wards evening it cleared to windward, and showed' us an 28 a I 4 !*•',. P.. ♦ W .' \i-]} ■■'& Mk .. li^iaS ^ 818 JOURNEV TO THE SHOUES island, which, though partly covered with snow, I thought I renicnihered. Accordingly, we wont there, and were gra- tified hy observing some marks which removed any doul)t about the route. The boat arrived late, and the men com- plained of being tired. <'ITowcvcr," said the poor fellows, *'vvc should not mind that, if the sun woidd only shine for us to dry our clothes." Fatigued as they were, the marks were followed; but, in this instance, the cache had been plun- dered— by whom was never discovered. A break now and then in the sky gave some token of a change, and by midnight the wind had much abated; but it was only to rage and howl with more violence as the sun rose, bringing along with it snow and sleet so thick as to darken the atmosphere, and limit our vi'^w to u few paces before us. In short, it was more like a dreary day of De- cember than of midsummer. It was impossible to move; and being Sunday, (22nd June,) divine service was read in the tent, where, to the credit of the men it should be men- tioned, notwithstanding the wet and discomfort to which they were exposed, they all came shaved and clean. At Itngth the gale wore itself out, and long lulls, with now and hen a feeble moan, showed that its strength was nearly spent. Nevertheless, the morning of the 23d of June was unpromising and dull; but as the distant land was visible, I lost not a moment in starting. It was from this island that, in our autumnal excursion, we had been com- pelled to make two or three tours of islands and bays before our guide had been able to discover the hidden passage of the Sand Hill, connecting this lake with the next. The farthest land was seen about N.W. by N. at an immense dis- tance; and though the line was to all appearance perfectly continuous, yet from an impression that on the former occa- OF THR ARCTIC SEA. 21f) sion wo had kepi to the left, I now made for the S. W. ; and, having traversed a wide opening, .suddenly came upon fresh marks that pointed to the horns of reindeer fixed on the top of a heap of stones. Mr. M'J^eod, it seemed, had left only on the ISth, having hcen detained hy collecting the meat, which, notwithstanding his care, had suflered no inconsidera- ble mutilation from the wolves. Tlie caciie was most wel- come, as, hut for this seasonal)le supj)ly, we nnist have opened the pemmican that night. It consisted of deer and musk ox, both very poor, and the latter strongly impreg- nated with the odour to which it owes its name. This was so disagreeable to some of the party, that they declared they would rather starve three days than swallow a mouthful; which coming to my knowledge, though not spoken with- in my hearing, I thought it right to counteract the feel- ing, and accordingly ordered the daily rations to be served from it for our own mess as well as theirs, and took occasion to impress on their minds the injurious con- sequences of voluntary abstinence, and the necessity of accommodating their tastes to such food as the country might supply. The similarity of the extensive openings right and left made me again hesitate where to direct my steps; but, aware of the deception arising from overlapping points, I ultimate- ly persevered in my first idea, though against the opinion of my party, who thought we were going into a bay; nor, indeed, was I by any means certain, until some rotten ice, and a lane of open water following, indicated the narrow of which we were in search. All doubt on this score was soon removed by a long line of marks leading to another cache, which, with the former one, made a total of eleven animals lo-day. The weather was now clear and warm, the ther- mometer being 66° in the sun, and 54° in the shade; so that '^20 JOirnNKY TO THK SHOUK.s ^}f' ) , 1'' ■ ii not only wore the dogs panting from heat, l)ut as the snow was made shishy, and the surface; of th«! ice softened, there was great diHlculty in dragging the hoat ah)ng at all. How- ever, hy y P. M. the wljole party came up, and we en- camped. The tent was not well uj) ])eforc the report of a gim on the opposite shore attracted our attention to two Indians, who, on a nearer approach, proved to be the runaway guides. They wore the bearers of u note from Mr. M'Leod, who very properly insisted on their returning to me imme- diately. Their story to him was, that being ordered by me to hunt a little in advance, and finding no traces of deer, they could not resist the temptation of accompanying some of their friends whom accident threw in their way; and as for my requiring a guide, they never so mucii as thought it possible, because I had always my **little sun," meaning the compass, which I had only to ask, to be informed of the direction of any part of the country. If A'. June 24th. — A warm day was so great a novelty, and so much needed, that I rested, for the purpose of enabling the men to dry their clothes and blankets, and getting observa- tions myself for lime and latitude. To collect a few willow that were growing on the opposite side it was necessary ♦o cross the detroit; and the strength of tlie ice being unequal, owing to the under current, several of the party broke through, and, amongst others, Mr. King, who fortunately recovered himself, however, before his chronometer touched the water. Towards evening distant thunder was heard; and though the breeze had blown from the S.E., an appear- ance of steely dark clouds to the N. W. intimated that rain might be expected from that quarter. Accordingly, just as we started at 8h. 15m. p. m. there was a brisk shower, but ^fti j OP THR AnCTir SKA. oof willioiil iIuiiuUt or li^liliiiiijj;. The dccaycil aiul iinsare state of the ice rendered it advisable to iaiiiich the boat, and transport the haji^age to the next solid piece, which was u little Ix-yond the conical mound called the Sand Hill. Op- posite to tliis sand-hill above lil'leen Indians and their I'aini- lies were encamped: they formed a |)art of tlios*; whom we had supplied with ammunition and other articles, to help them to make the best of the sumnur; but so proverbially improvident arc these miserai)le people, that nearly the whole which they had received was already lost or expend- ed; a few had two or three charges of |)owder and ball, but by far the greater j)art had to depend on their bows nnd arrows or the uncertain chance of lishiui!;. We were in- formed by them, that many of the Yellow Knives and Chipcwyans, who were carrying our pemmican to the Thlew-cc-choh, had either eaten or made way with a con- siderable portion of it; not by reason of any delicicncy of provision, since they had abundance, but from sheer indo- lence or wantonness. Our guides also again annoyed us by their mulish conduct; for though directed to hold themselves in readiness to accompany u.s, when tlu; moment of depar- ture came one was absent hunting, and the other was quietly lounging on the bank, wrapped in his blanket, and smoking his pipe, with all imaginable unconcerji. I ordered him, with some signs of impatience and displeasure, to equip himself, and come with me without delay, which order was silently obeyed after we hiul been kept waiting a full hour. As for the other absentee, I threw the responsibility of his conduct on his old father, making him answerable for the appearance of his son, within the next forty-eight hours, with the bag of pemmican which had been entrusted to his cure. Nor did I entertain the least doubt that the requisi- tion would be punctually complied with, as he well knew 1H? »■' 322 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES \l I* V ^ '^'IJV Il)al. in default ho would thenceforth he scouted from our cs- tublishmcnt. Indeed, experience had taught me the advan- tage of assuming and maintaining an air of superiority over the Indians. There is no need of unkindness or severity; all that is re", red is a steady firmness, and never oveHook- ing an attempt at deception, however plausible. No people scrutinize more narrowly the behaviour of those with whom they have to deal; and if they once perceive that they can- not lie or equivocate without detection, they will cease to make the attempt, though, from a natural propensity to fiilsehood and the habitual character of their speech, they will do so to a stranger most gratuitously. 1 !i Our guide led us in a tortuous direction, among the black and rotten ice, and frequently halted to try its strength by pressing on 't with his feet, or striking it with the handle of an axe; but such over caution — proper cno igh, if we had time — ill accorded with my anxiety to get quickly forward: and on such occasions afterwards, Peter Taylor (a half- breed) boldly led the way across any suspected place. Still, constant impediments presented themselves in some shape or other, from open water, ice, or snow; but all were hap- pily surmounted: and when we had made a short portage across a point of land, we came to another cache containing five mutik oxen and a deer. The latter only was taken, the remainder being left to be converted into dried meat, for the supply of Mr. M'Leod's party on their return. We now entered upon Lake Aylmer, and made for a detached and rounded mass of rock forming an island in the distance. Here we would gladly have stopped, had there been noss enough to make a fire; but this not being the case, the roK.t. was continued, at a rate that made me wonder what had called forth this sudden and extraordinary spirit of OF THE AIICTIC SEA. emulation. I was obliged to put my best leg forward to keep up at all; and, wjjcn we halted for encamping, I wiped my brow, and asked where the deer were which we had been chasing, or why they had started off at full speed, as if the "manito," or evil genius, had been behind them? After a pause, and looking at each other, the Indian said he thought Taylor was trying how fast he could walk, and Taylor said he was sure the Indian wished to pass him, which he was determined he should not do; so that it seemed I had been assisting at a foot match; and the people behind were four hours in coming up to us. Passing showers had fallen during the march; but when the wind died away into a calm, the rain fell in torrents, and the under-strilum of soil bei^g frozen every hollow was transformed into a pool of water, the accumulation of which overflowing in a thousand little rills gradually undermined the tent, which, unfortunately, had been pitched on a declivity, and finally insinuating themselves between the blankets, awoke me in the middle of a first nap. The sun had not risen, or at least was not visible, and I much question if the most rigid Mussulman would have enjoyed so early an ablution. Nevertheless my companion, Mr. King, seemed to heed neither rain nor flood; for having espied a herd of deer on an adjacent hill, he composedly put on a blue cloak and set off after them; and though he got no deer, plover. he brought back some fine The 25th was dark and gloomy, but our stray Indian failed not to come in with the pemmican, A fog, that had been more or less prevalent for the last fourteen hours, be- came rather thicker as night drew on; but having now my guides, and judging that the men would suffer less in travel- ling than from lying inactive in their wet clothes, I started at 10 p. M. The Indians, always timorous, kept close along •x. M r-^> i« 224 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES f > 1 1, > ^ ij- * t 1 I; ). ,r'i the land, and fixed us constantly amongst the had and unsalc ice, which now resemhled spikes from two to three inches long. Shoes were soon perforated, as well as the pieces of reindeer skin with the hair on which had been fastened round them as a slight protection to the feet. The party with the boat very wisely kept farther out, and had conse- quently better ice, the surface of which was like a bed of madrepores, except that the upper edges were considerably sharper. About midnight the guides hesitated to proceed, on account of the dense fog: they thought they had already erred, and affected to be fearful of misleading me; but to this pretence I quickly put an end by directing the route with the compass. It must be confessed that the travelling was hy no means agreeable; for to say nothing of the darkness, the fog almost wet us through, creating a chill which exercise was unable to overcome. A wild rocky point which we made I recognised as one of my last year's encamping places, and was not a little glad to find that we were within one march of Sand Hill Bay, where our labours on this lake would terminate. About a mile further we stopped, ard the boat arrived at 7 A. m. of the 26th. Throughout the whole of this day not a gleam of sui\«hine came to cheer our spirits or dry our wet clothes; on the con- trary, we had a weary continuation of gloomy weather, at d rain in torrents. The night was yet more forbidding, and when the usual time of departure came we could not distin- guitih objects a hundred yards off. Under such circumstances to continue the route was impossible. All were drenched to the skin, and no fire could be made; but the men, with great OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 225 resignation, making the best of their damp lodgings, looked about for the most sheltered place to lie down: isome wrung their blankets, while others, as a last resource, put on their whole wardrobe, in the hope of a little warmth. These pre- cautions, however, were ineffectual ; for in the morning the greater part found themselves in pools of water, which their own weight bad brought down on them from the higher sur- face. I happened to see one of them awake, and could not help laughing at the sudden Jerk with which li^ withdrew his right hand out of the puddle in which he had uncon- sciously placed it. The morning of the 27th was still foggy; but a prospect of clearing to the N. W. encouraged us to start, ?ind about noon it became fine. A fresh cache afforded a seasonable re- cruit to our provisions, which would not have held out be- yond this day. It was a joyful sight to see Sand-hill Bay, and to know that we were now within a few miles of that water which was to cany us to the Polar Sea. As we neared the portage of the Thlew-ee-choh a white tent was distinguished, with a crowd of people around it; and this, of course, proved to be Mr. M'Leod and his party, who scarcely expected us so early. The badness of the weather and the distance from which his men had to fetch the meat had caused two days of detention, for which I was not sorry, as it gave me the op- portunity of investigating the truth of the report about the pemmican. li There had been much exaggeration, but the charge waj not altogether without foundation, as one man confessed that he had given his wife a sound drubbing for having taken some; with this exception, however, neither Mr. M*Leod nor the interpreter would believe that the bags had been touched, an opinion which could not then be put to the test of an ex- 2n Q a I .^ * II K j( r ^ p' ' v'^ 226 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES amination, as the Indians were dispersed. Among the num- ber of the accused was a Chipewyan called Jack, who, on being interrogated, merely pointed to his bag, and asked if it was in any way altered, or looked as if it had been open- ed. "And for what reason," said he, "should I do so? Have I not as much and more than I can eat? And if it were not so, have I been so long with the chief as to take his property without leave? No, I am not a thief; I know white men better-" This was spoken without any appear- ance of ill-feeling; but when he learned that a Yellow Knife had accused him, his countenan settled into a sullen frown, that bespoke determined reven Merely saying that he "would see him," he remained silent, and in the evening went away with Mr. M'Leod, who was to push on for Musk- Ox Rapid, and send his men back to our aid if he thought we should require them. It was late before the boat came; and the men and dogs being fagged, for it was hard work, we en- camped. A number of mice (lemmings) were seen, and some killed. There was this difference in them, that one kind had long skinny ears of a lobe shape, whereas the others had an orifice only. They were dissimilar also in colour, and in their tails; but both fought with a half-bred terrier, and fre- quently bit it. V' '•A The morning of the 28th being fine, I obtained sights which corroborated those taken the previous year on the same spot. Having ordered every thing to be taken out of the boat preparatory to dragging her across the portage, about a quarter of a mile in breadth, to the Thlew-ee-choh^ my as- tonishment may be conceived when information was brought me that the carpenters would not answer for the consequences of such a step, as the wood of which she was built was too soft to allow of her being dragged over that or any other portage. This was the first time that any such notion about OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 227 \e num- ,vho, on asked if jn open- do so? Lnd if it I to take I know ' appear- iw Knife m frown, ; that he evening or Musk- ought we ime; and k, we en- ieen, and one kind thers had ir, and in and fre- jd sights I the same Lt of the I, about a L my as- brought squences I was too ly other an about the quality of the wood had been intimated; for otherwise, thougfi it might have cost us incredible trouble, a different and tougher kind should have been procured from Fort Re- solution, or even farther, had I been only apprised in due season at the house; nor could I now understand the matter at all, as the same man had built my last boat on the former expedition under Sir John Franklin; and certainly a more efficient one was never turned out of hand, as was demon- strated by the fact of her reaching England, and having, as 1 believe, again gone out with Captain Ross. It was a contre- temps for which I certainly was not prepared ; and my only chance of surmounting the difficulty was the possibility that the crew might be able to carry her, though to effect this (never previously contemplated) it was necessary to cut away the wash-boards, ;vhich had been purposely riveted to the gun- wales, to enable them to support the pressure. The moment of lifting the boat up was one of intense anxiety; and it is im- possible to describe the burst of my feelings, when I saw the men walk away with her. The task, however, though suc- cessfully accomplished, was a severe one, and taxed their strength to the utmost. Twice one of the best men of the party declared he knew not if he should stand or fall when, irom the inequality of the ground, the weight pressed particu- larly on him; and all were greatly fatigued. The reflection that the same operation would be impossible when the wood had become saturated and heavy with water, was not calcu- lated to excite sanguine emotions: however, I trusted to cir- cumstances, my own resources, and the spirit and stamina of the crew, determining not to anticipate evil, or yield to fears that might never be realized. At 1 p. M. the boat was launched upon theThlew-ee-choh; but as the river was open only in and about the si llow rapids of the upper parts (for the lake at its source, as well as a 228 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES '.J smaller one about two miles farther down, were yet firm with solid ice,) it was unavailable for any purpose of transport; even when quite light, it was not without trouble and a good deal of waiting that the boat was floated, or lifted over the shoal parts of the first three rapids. These passed, the ?"en who had charge of her returned for their baggage to the other end of the portage; but this method, in our case unavoid- able, occasioned so many delays that it was very late before the task was completed, though the direct distance accom- plished did not exceed four miles. June 29. — The baggage was again carried to the border of a small lake, where, after the boat had been made use of to set us on the ice, the sledges and runners were again tackled, and we proceeded as before until we reached the extremity, having picked up on the way a cache of two deer. At the next portage we landed: the baggage was carried over, and the boat taken down the rapids, three of which followed in quick succession. The thermometer rose to 64°; and a warm southerly wind soon brought heavy rain which overflowed the low swampy ground that declined to the river, swelled the brooks and rivulets to a depth that made it hazardous to wade across them, and in other ways considerably harassed the portage work. Having traversed another small lake with the sledges, we encamped at the head of a long rapid and portage, to save the pemmican from getting damaged by the rain, which fell without intermission or check throughout the whole day. A few partridges, some deer, and numbers of lemmings were seen; and I remarked that the latter burrowed under the roots of the dwarf birch, and sometimes of the willow, in preference to the large stones on the plain, possibly to ob- tain more cover from the piercing eyes of their great ene- OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 229 mies, the white and brown owls. The willows were with- out catkins, or any budding at the extremities of the branches. June 30. — The labour was resumed at an early hour, though the sky was still enveloped in mist or fog; but the immense boulders, half blocking up the narrow parts of the rapid, presented impediments which greatly increased the difliculty and the tediousness of our progress. Taking with me a couple »>f hands, I preceded the party; and having got on the ice by means of the boat, we soon came to a cache of three deer which were placed on the track. Passing Icy River on the left, more marks were seen and other meat found; and while we were occupied about it, the interpreter, accompanied by several Indians, came from the hills, having left Mr. M'Leod to follow their companions who were be- fore. Leaving a note containing directions for the proper disposal of the meat, we went on, and in about two hours overtook the other men, who were brought to a stand by the weakness of a bar of rotten ice that bent most ominously in whatever direction it was tried. However, we had come too far to recede, and one part was at length discovered that with careful placing of the feet on the whiter, and therefore stronger, protuberances, was cohesive enough to bear the weight of a single person, — who, having first passed himself with the end of a line fastened to his sledge, got upon the firmer ice, and then with a sudden jerk twitched his load across after him. On gaining the narrows that lead into Musk-Ox Lake, our progress was cut short by open water ahead, as well as along each bank. It was too deep to ford; so having jumped together upon a piece of ice about twelve feet long and eight or ten broad, and then detached it by- cutting a line with the axes, we made a sort of natural raft, which we ferried over, with the same axes and the tent poles for paddles. A great deal of snow yet encumbered the 4 230 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES iff i I I'f ' ■(- IS - ft'-!' • eastern side of the hills, "nd two snow birds were seen which had not changed their wintry plumage; yet the mosquitos, at a temperature of 40°, were quite lively enough to execute with their usual skill the neat operation of cupping. About the time that the boat arrived, we were joined by our friend M'Leod. He remained with us through the night; and gave an account of his hunting excursions, in which the supe- riority of his rifle-shooting had, it seems, perfectly astonish- ed the Indians: as well it might, for at that work he would have rivalled a Kentuckian. July 1. — As we had now overtaken the Indians, it was useless to hurry on, and I gladly permitted the men to rest till noon. The boat then took us to the ice on Musk-Ox Lake, and at 4 p. m. we reached Musk-Ox Rapid, the point from which I had returned the previous year. Several In- dians who were encamped here paddled to us in their small canoes, and assailed our ears with the familiar but annoying cry of ''Etthen-oolah, Etthen-ta-houty," — no deer, the deer are gone away; and begged I would give them a little to- bacco, for they were "hungry for a smoke." It appeared that the scarcity of animals had driven Akaitcho a short dis- tance to the north, where he was forced to live upon the flesh of the musk-ox, the flavour of which is not a delicacy ven to a Yellow Knife Indian, who certainly is not fastidious in his taste. Soon after we encamped, Mr. M> 232 JOITHNEY TO THE SHORES choh. Be this as it may, there seems no doubt that this western branch does take its rise in Contwoy-to, or the Rum Lake of Hearne; which lake was fully identified by the In- dians present as that whose western extremity Sir J. Frank- lin's party crossed in the first overland expedition at Be- langcr's Kapid. They spoke of two outlets; and some who had been there dcscribt'<' the lake as one extensive and unin- terrupted sheet of water: they also agreed in stating that it was at a considerable distance, and I subsequently heard that two smaller lakes intervened between that and the Thlew-ee- choh. A liiie of rapids which the boat ran led us to an opening or small lake four miles broad, bounded on the north by a ridge of blue mountains, named after my lamented friend Captain Peter lieywood, R. N., which cut the lake at a right angle. The centre, and, indeed, the greater part, was cov- ered with ice; but a channel of open water on the eastern shore gave me hopes that we should not long have occasion for the sledges. July 3d. — Two Indians were despatched this morning in search of those who were yet absent with the pemmican, whom having found a few miles off, they conducted them to the encampment with their burdens. This precious article, which, from the commencement of the winter to the present moment, had been a continual subject of anxiety to me, was now counted and examined, and most happy was I to learn that, to all appearance, it had been brought without injury or spoliation, except in the solitary instance already stated. The husband of the offender had himself given the informa- tion, and he now expressed a wish that the act of a bad woman might not be the means of his losing the promised reward for carrying it; "for," added he, "I beat her well; and if m:^ OK TIIK AHCTIC SKA. 233 Hat this he Rum the In- Frank- i at Be- ime who nd unin- ig that it card that hlcw-ee- opening orth by a Led friend at a right was cov- le eastern J occasion lorning in ^emmican, Id them to IS article, le present me, was ll to learn )Ut injury |dy stated, informa- id woman jd reward ^\\, and if you do not holievo mo, ask those who stood by. Oh! she has a had head — Sass! That very evening she went away from my lodge; nobody knew wliere. Two nights I remain- ed silent; but as she did not come on the third, fearing she might be lost, some of us went in search of her, and, after a long and fatiguing walk for miles in every direction, and looking in every nook and cranny that we could see — would you tliink it? we found her hid among the large rocks close to the lodge. Oh! she has a bad head! but I drubbed her well — Sass!" The poor fellow evidently regarded this sum- mary chastisement as an expiatory offering to appease our resentment. We had altogether twenty-seven bags of pemmican, weigh- ing about eighty pounds each; two boxes of maccaroni, some (lour, a case of cocoa, and a two-gallon keg of rum: an ade- (juate supply, if all good, for the three months of our opera- tions. It does not become me to enlarge upon the difficulty and danger of transporting a weight, all things included, of near five thousand pounds over ice and rock, by a circuitous route of full two hundred miles; but, when the pain endured in walking on some parts, where the ice formed innumerable spikes that pierced like needles; the risk encountered in others, where, black and decayed, it threatened at every step to engulf us; the anxiety about provision, and the ab- sence of a guide for a considerable part of the way: whea these and other difficulties are taken into consideration, it will, perhaps, be conceded that the obstacles must be great which cannot be surmounted by steady perseverance. Tht Indians who, for hire, afforded us material help, were not more astonished at their own voluntary subjection to our ser- vice, than at the sight of a boat, manned with Europeans and stored with provision of the soutiicrn country, floating on the clear waters of the barren lands. 30 994 JOIIHNKY TO TlIK SHOIIKS Wm4 m ■* m 1 1 K.i wk' ' B^j am:\ The weather was thick and fogj^y; and the picture.s(|uc lodges of the natives, constructeil in the rudest manner, often of two or three skins thrown over a few short |)oles or sticks carried for the purpose, extended in the indistinct mist up- wards of a quarter of a mile. Groups of dark figures hud- dled togetlier under these imperfect coverings — others crowded in front of Mr. M'Leod's tent, or standing round the poor cmhers of a fire at which our kettles were doing slow duty, presented, altogether, a striking and interesting spectacle. It the midst of one of these groups was my old acquaintance and Indian helle, who will be remembered by the readers of Sir J. Franklin's narrative under the name of Green Stockings. Though surrounded by a liimily, with one urchin in her cloak clinging to her back, and sundry other maternal accompaniments, I immediately recognised her, and called her by her name; at which she laughed, and said "she was an old woman now," — begging, at the same time, that she might be relieved by the "medicine man, for she was very much out of health." However, notwithstand- ing all this, she was still the beauty of her tribe; and, with that consciousness which belongs to all belles, savage or po- lite, seemed by no means displeased when I sketched her portrait. :i. nv H i I .1' M li:|Kl The scarcity of animals in the neighbourhood created no little doubt in the minds of the hunters as to the best route to be taken on their return with Mr. M'Leod to the Fort; and they had half decided on going a day's journey to the north to kill musk oxen, when the fog clearing away discovered the branching antlers of twenty reindeer spread over the summits of the adjacent hills. To see and pursue was the work of a moment, and in a few minutes not an active hun- ter remained in the encampment. It was a beautiful and in- teresting sight; for the sun shone out, and lighting up some .^ OP THE ARCTIC SKA. 235 parts cast olhors into doopor sliadr; flic white ice reflected millions ot'dazzlinj^ rays: the rapid leapt and chafed in little ripples, which melted away into the uiirunied surface of the slumhering lake; ahnipt and crafj;jj;y rocks frowned on the right; and, on the left, the brown landscape receded until it was lost in the distant blue mountains. The foreground was fdled up with the ochre-coloured lodges of the Indians, con- trasting with our own pah; tents; and to the whole scene animation was given l)y the graceful motions of the unstartled deer, and the treacherous crawling of the wary hunters. ^■JP # m .^ A R.>J- s m ■' Ik: '■; 236 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES t;s-1j j^lv'l Is ri I CHAPTER X. Instructions to Mr. AVLeod tijtnn our Separation. — Aleet with Akait- cho.—His Lodge.— Imminent Danger to the Boat.—Akaitcho's friendly Caution. — Embarkation. — Heavy Storms. — Our Crew. — Geological Features of the Cotmtry— Obstructions from the Ice. — Perils from a Series of Rapids.— Plunder of a Bag of Pemmican. — Obstacles on our Passage. — Boisterous Weather. — Deer-hunting. — Observations.— Deviation of the River.— Desolate Scenery.- De- tained by the Ice.— Cascades.— Lund-marks — Contraction of the River. — Baillie^s River. — Flocks of Geese. — Tact requisite in Com- mand.— Precipitous Rocks. — A Fox. — Esquimau.T Marks. — Bull en River. — A Storm. — Lake Petty. — Conjectures of an Indian, — En- campment.—View of the Counti-y. — Further Obstructions.— Ouser- vations.—Lake Garry. It was now unnecessary for Mr. M'Lcod to proceed far- ther; and it was satisfactory to me, at parting witli him, tliat I could make over a tolcralile stock of dried meat for liis party, which would consist of ten persons and fourteen dogs, other- wise entirely dependent on the success of the hunters who were to guide them. At 10 A. M. , July 4th, the boat was sent off with the sledges I ■' 'i, ' OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 227 and half the cargo to the ice on the lake; and I availed my- self of this last occasion to repeat the siil)stance of.oiir former conversations respecting the duties that would bo required of him during my absence; the most important of which were his going to Fort Resolution for the stores, to be sent there by the Company, and the ouilding of a house for a permanent fishing station at some place to be selected by himself. I also deliver- ed into his hands an official letter, requiring him to be agaiii on the banks of the Thlew-e"i-choh, by the middle of Septem- ber, so as to be in readiness to afford any assistance to my party that unforeseen misfortunes might render necessary. Finally, I returned him sincere thanks for the zealous atten- tion with which he had fulfilled my wishes, as well as for his general kindness to every individual of the expedition. IJy this time the boat had returned, and with a hearty farewell, I embarked for the ice. The boat was soon put on the runners, and, together with the baggage, conveyed to the other side of the lake; when, the water being open, she was again launched, to avoid acci- dents only hall the cargo being placed in her. The river, flowing from the lake, cuts through a chain of craggy rocks and mountains, thickly strewed with boulders and debris, but with sufficient pasturage in the valleys and down the de- clivities to attract musk oxen and deer, which are said to re- sort to them in spring and autumn in vast numbers. An increasing current brought us to a strong rapid and fall, with an island in the centre; and just above it, on a moss-covered rock. We perceived Akaitcho's son and another Indian, \vav- ing and shouting to warn us of the danger, which, however, we had already perceived. The luggage ])rought on this trip being now landed, the boat was sent back for the re- mainder. il.'' I i; 1 238 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES m Akaitcho had chosen this bleak tract for his hunting ground, ancl had pitched his lodge on the very peak of the highest hill, a few miles off; which being too distant for me to visit, I sent him some tobacco and other presents, with a request that he would detain his young men at his lodge, as we were tqo busy to talk. Scarcely, however, had I return- ed from taking some bearings, when I saw the old man and several others close alongside. The interpreter declared he could not prevail on him to remain, for that as soon as he heard that I was there, he left his lodge, saying, "I have known the chief a long time, and I am afraid I shall never see him again — I will go." The boat had now arrived; and the rest of the men being busied in making the portage, she was pushed off with four good hands, quite light, to run the fall. Unfortunately the steersman kept her rather too much to the left; in consequence of which, after descending the first fall, she was drawn upon a shelving rock, forming part of the ledge of the second: this brought her up with a crash which threatened immediate destruction, and called forth a shriek from the prostrate crew. The immense force of the water drove her farther on, so that she hung only by the stern. The steersman jumped on the rock; but though he maintained his footing, he could not lift her off: he jumped on board again, whilst I called out and made signs for the men to go forward into the bow, and be ready to pull the larboard oars. Amidst the confusion this direction was not attended to, and, in an instant, her stem was swept round by the large fall. I held my breath, expecting to see her dash- ed to shivers against a protruding rock, upon which a wave five feet high was breaking directly before her; but, happily, the steering oar had been only half laid in; and, taking the rock, it twirled her broadside to the rapid, which then car- ried her down without further injury. The water being pumped out, it was found that she did not leak; and this bc- » OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 239 ing so, I was, upon the whole, not sorry for the adventure, as it not only gave the men a memorahle proof of the strength of these clear-water rivers, but afforded me an occasion for cautioning them against running any rapid for the future, without first studying the lead of the current. a wave The river appearing to he free from ice, as far as could be discerned from the heights, I thought it unnecessary to take all the spare people on with me, and therefore left the inter- preter with others to remain at Akaitcho's lodges until the carpenters, who were wanted to inspect the boat, should re- turn with further instructions for their guidance. Seeing that I was about to depart, Akaitcho looked very melancholy, and cautioned me against the dangers of a river which he plainly told me none of the present race of Indians had the least knowledge of: especially did he warn me against Es- quimaux treachery, which, he said, was always perpetrated under the disguise of friendship; and "when you least ex- pect it," added he, "they will attack you. I am afraid I shall never pee you again," he continued; "but should you escape from the great water, take care you are not caught by the winter, and thrown into a situation like that in which you were on your return from the Coppermine, for you are alone, and the Indians cannot help you. " Having endeavour- ed to quiet his apprehensions by acquainting him with my intended precautions, and my determination to keep to the river in the event of any accident to the boat, which could only happen by the special permission of the Great Spirit, in whose keeping we were as safe as if we had a score of boats, I rec;ommended him to collect plenty of provisions for me by the autumn, and in two moons and a half to look beyond the mountains for the smoke of my fires on our return. Then, shaking him by the hand, I stepped into the boat: it was half loaded; and pulling down stream we entered a small lake, {A «' 240 JOUUNEY TO THE SHORES 5-.:t n 4 5 ■V, whose western shore led to a narrow channel formed by an island with a rapid on either side. The one which we ran was rather shoal, but the boat did not ground; and having rounded the north end of the island, we encamped at a clump of willows on the eastern shore, which offered every conve- nience for drying and caulking her. In the space of an hour, the whole of ihe cargo was brought without dogs or sledges: and the boat being turned up to dry, we were rejoiced to see that til-! bottom was uninjured, having been merely scraped in one place. The thermometer to-day was 5G° with a light breeze from E. by S. It is remarkable that for near a month past there had not been two consecutive days of fine weather; and now as we hoped the charm was broken, the clouds began to gather with the declining sun, and by midnight assumed an aspect so de- cidedly stormy as not to be mistaken. It really looked as if that watery saint, old Svvithin, had taken it into his head to leave his favourite abode in England, just to travel north a little, and was then on his passage hereabout. However this may be, the rain poured, and the wind blew, first in hollow gusts, then in loud squalls, and last of all in a downright heavy gale suflicient to have laid low the pride of the tallest and stoutest pine in the forest: as it was, its fury was thrown away, the only trophy of its prowess being the upsetting of our tent, though secured with a rampart of heavy stones, and the carrying off of one of my moccassins. Not the less, however, did it continue to rage, and throughout the whole of July 5th the boat was untouched; nor was there the least abatement on the following day, which, being Sunday, was devoted to the exercise of our religious duties, during the whole performance of which I observed with great pleasure that the men paid the most decorous attention. This state of weather could not last much longer without deluging the OF THE AllCTIC SEA. 241 country; and on the 7tli the storm gradually moderated, got drizzly, and finally spit only at intervals, still loth, as it seemed, to leave off. At last the sun peeped faintly through the gray clouds, and at his setting lit up a hope of better times. The boat was finished, and the carpenters, with an Iroquois, who had been purposely kept to accompany them, were dismissed, and desired to return with the other men with all possible diligence to Mr. M'Leod. July 8th. — There was still rain, but a break in the clouds indicated something of a change; and I had the boat launch- ed, and laden with her cargo, which, together with ten per- sons, she stowed well enough for a smooth river, but not for a lake or sea-way. The weight was calculated at 3360lbs., exclusive of the boat's covering or awning, masts, yards, sails, spare oars, poles, planking, and the crew. The latter, as now finally reduced, coi;sisted of — James M'Kay, George Sinclair, Charles M'Ken/ie, Peter Taylor, James Spence, John Ross, William Malley, Hugh Carron, Hijfhlander Half-breed Highlander Hair-brecd Orkney Highlander Lancashire Irish } 1 Steersman. J)o. & IJovvman. .Bowman. Artillery- men. Middlemen. Besides Mr. Richard King, the Surgeon, and myself At 10 A. M. we pushed from the shore, and found the rain had caused a rise of full eight inches in the river, which varied in breadth from two hundred yards to a quarter of a mile, as long as it kept between the rocky ridge of the moun- tains, a distance of about six miles. In this part, I remark- ed the same characteristic features of gneiss and porphyritic .te 242 JOUHNKY TO THE SHOUES rr ;r :-i: i, rocks, with large fragments and boulders on them, as Dr. Richardson* describes as presenting themselves in the neigh- bourhood of Fort Enterprise and Point Lake. JSIany of these rocks were broken into clifis and precipices, which faced to the east. Numerous regular gullies, or what might once have served for tributary channels, cut the river with considerable uniformity east and west. The beds of most of them were half filled with earth, stones, and moss, toge- ther with some few willows, whose small and tardy leaves were just beginning to look green. A wide and deep chan- nel that was passed terminated in a rapid, which having first carefully examined, was run with a full cargo, and brought us to a small lake perfectly free from ice. This lake is re- markable, as forming the northern boundary of the Heyvvood chain of mountains, which here slope off into inconsiderable and regular hills, so thickly strewed with gray rocks and stones as to have the appearance of an immense quarry with loose rubbish about it. The river now became contracted, and formed an easy rapid, upon the northern bank of which I made our first cache of pemniican, nearly opposite to a little sand-hill. • The stream soon became wider, and opened into a lake so completely blocked up with ice as to arrest our progress, and at 6 p. m. we encamped. M'Kay and Sinclair were immediately despatched, one on either side of the lake, to find out the most likely part for getting through. But while they were absent, a light breeze from the N. W. sprung up, and opened a channel along the western shore, barred only by two pieces of ice, which were jammed against the point nearest us. Through these a passage was cut; and on the return of the men, who, I was sorry to hear, had seen another lake covered with ice, the *Appx., Fraukliii. OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 243 n, as Dr. he neigh- Many of ;s, which hat might river with s of most loss, toge- rdy leaves deep chan- laving first nd brought lake is re- e Hey wood jonsiderable J rocks and quarry with contracted, ik of which pposite to a and opened to arrest our ched, one on kely part for light breeze lel along the L which were ugh these a 1, who, I was with ice, the boat was hauled carefully on, and for three or four hundred yards we were enabled U) use the oars; a shift of wind then closed the heavier masses ahead; but, by cutting and poling, we ultimately .succeeded in n-acliins; oj)en water, and at 1" 30'" A. M. again pitched the tent. As the boat leaked a little, she was left in the water; and, to prevent her getting damaged from the floating ice, the men slept in her. In the morning of the 9tli tliere was more rain, so that we did not get away before 10'' a. m. ; when it fortunately hap- pened that a narrow opening was formed inshore, and allow- ed of our crossing to the eastern, which was the weather side, where there was a lane of water as far as the low points allowed us to see. A little more than an hour's pulling, however, took us to the end of it; and we found that a reef of large stones, cased in ice, divided it from another lane. This ice being in shallow water, was porous and rotten, dO that it yielded to the united effect of the axe and the weight of the men; and, at the expiration of an hour and a half, the boat was got through, though not without some awkward scrapings. An easy rapid, and the shelving shore of a sand-hill, rather encouraged the hope that the river would turn out favoura- bly; but that illusion was soon dispelled by a very long rapid immediately succeeding, where the boat was only saved by all hands jumping into the breakers, and keeping her stern up the stream until she was cleared from a rock that had brought her up. We had hardly time to get into our places again, when we were carried with considerable velo- city past a river which joined from the westward; a rapid then followed; after which another tributary was observed coming from the same quarter. 844 JOTTRNEY TO THE SHORES 15 m:^^ The hills in that direction did not exceed three hundred feet in height, and often not fifty; hut they had the same sterile appearance, and were spotted with the same dark frag- ments of rocks or stones as those already passed. On Uie eastern side sandy banks were frequently met with, which gradually rose into acclivities, or gently sloping mounds, with small streamlets winding round their bases, affording pasturage to musk oxen and deer. Tlie latter scampered away as we approached, but the former stood stupidly gazing at us: luckily for them, we were not in want of their car- casses. m it^:^)! An island near the centre of the river, with thin columns of mist rising suspiciously at quick intervals on each side, made it necessary to land. Having ascertained that there was, as had been expected, a fall, we carried the baggage below it, and the boat was then brought down in a manner which convinced me that M'Kay and Sinclair thoroughly understood their business; for, by dexterous management in the rush of the fall, they avoided the principal danger, and the boat swept into the eddy with the ease and buoyancy of a water-fowl. The stream was very irregular in its dimen- sions, for it was now a quarter of a mile broad, and conti- nued so for nearly three miles, when it contracted into two hundred yards, and, running in a serpentine direction, form- ed a series of no less than five rapids, augmented by two streams from the westward. A still sheet of water, bound- ed to the right by mounds and hills of white sand, with patches of rich herbage, where numerous deer were feeding, brought us to a long and appalling rapid, full of rncks and large boulders; the sides hemmed in by i wall of ice, and the current flying with the velocity and force of a torrent. The boat was lightened of her cargo, and I stood on a high rock, with an anxious heart, to see her run it. I had every ii Ji»i OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 245 hope which confidence in the judgincnt and dexterity of my principal men could inspire; hut it was ini|)ossihle not to feel that one crash would he fatal to the expedition. Away they went, with the speed of an arrow, and in a moment the foam and rocks hid them from my view. I heard what sounded in my ear like a wild shriek, and saw Mr. King, who was a hundred yards hcfore me, make a sign with his gun, and then run forward. I followed, with an agitation which may he conceived; and, to my unexpressihlc joy, found that the .shriek was the triumphant whoop of the crew, who had landed safely in a small hay helow. I could not hut reward them with a glass of grog a-piece, and they immediately ap- plied themselves to the fatiguing work of the portage, with as much unconcern as if they had only crossed a mill-pond. It grew late be. >re this last task was accomplished, and then Malley was missing. Some of the men were despatched in search of him; and at length he returned, heartily tired with rambling among swamps and rocks, having lost himself in consequence of deviating from the course of the river. Such incidents (among voyagciirs) generally afford a name to the spot where they happen; so, to conform to the usage, I called this Malley's Rapid. On opelhig another bag of pcmmican to-night, the upper part was found to be mouldy, as if it had been wet: on re- moving it, a stone was found, and a further examination led to the discovery of layers of mixed sand, stones, and green meat — the work of some rascally Indian, who, having pil- fered the contents, had adopted this ingenious device to con- ceal his peculation. And well indeed it must have been gtfnanaged, since it had escaped the experienced eye of Mr. ^VI'Leod, who coi.sidered the whole to be in good order. As it was now uncertain whether we might not be carrying a heap of stones instead of provision, every bag underwent a I 346 JOITRNEV TO THR SHORFS severe probing, and, itiupI; to niir safisfactl'-nf the remainder proved sound and wcIl-tastcd. ^ For five days the sun iiad '^eon vi "Ijie only thrice, and th'S night and the morning of the 10th wesP so rainy, that, with an intricate piece of water before us, we did not ven- ture to stir, until a short respite tempted us to try what could be done. The rai.iil was wedged in between two hills that forbade all landing in case of an accident: so to guard against consequenct^s, as far as possible, I had the guns, ammunition, and instruments carried, and thought 't advisable to direct the same precaution to be observed at every rapid throughout the river navigation. We had but just started \vhen the rain poured down as usual, bringing with it a ,;ol'.l northerly wind, and a fog which, shutti'ig out from view the rocks under water, added to tlio diHi( ilty, already suficiently great, of worming out a passage in a strong current, broken by shoals and sharp stones so as not to iillow of a moment's indecision. Another rapid and a portage took us to what would have been still water, had not the wind crested it with white waves considerable enough to prove the buoyancy and dry qualities of the boat, which, considering how deeply she was laden, took in very little water. The only peculiarity in the scenery was the striking contrast of the tithite sand- banks witb the irregular rocky hills in the distance, which were of a glor>my grayish hue, scarcely enlivened by the dull gi-een of the vegetation with which they were thinly cover- ed. Occasionally we passed some low islands, and many deer were feeding in the prairies on either side. From a narrow we emerged into a wide .^pace, which various cliffy banks to the left induced me to think would take a bend to the westwarl; but, on getting there, an opposite current was found, which was subsequently discovered to be owing to the junction of another large river. The fog then became • « /'■ •■•■•;> OF THE AHCTIC SEA. 247 naindor cc, and V, that, lot ven- lat rould lills that I against lunition, o direct •oughout the rain lortherly ic rocks t^icicntly , broken loment's to what d it with incy and eply she Iculiarity Itc sand- , which the dull cover- d many IFrom a 119 cliffy bend to ;ent was ing to became f so dense, that the nearest land was poncoaled from our view; and perceiving that we were drawn towards a rapid, we pull- ed hastily for the shore, and encanij)e(i. Tiie magnitude of objects, as is well known, is increased in such an atmospliere; and some ice that still adhered to eitlier side wore so formi- dable an asj)ect that, together with tlie roar of the rapid, it made us really j^Jad to be safe on shore. The 11th commenced with heavy rain and a gale from the N. W. , which did not lull throughout the day; we were con- sequently prevented from moving, as the boat could not be taken down the rapids on account of the spray hiding the rocks, as well as the impossibility of keeping her under con- trol. Instead of decreasing with the decline of the sun, the gale freshened, and became far more boisterous. Neithei did the morning of the 12th bring any change for the better: the squalls were more violent; and even with the shelter of a high bank, the tent was with difficulty saved frdhi being swept down. In the former expeditions farther west, we had never experienced an extraordinary quantity of rain; in- deed the contrary might rather have been remarked; and if it sometimes blew more fresh than usual, the gale seldom lasted more than twelve or twenty-four hours at most, and was ge- nerally followed by fine warm weather. But here was a' combination of foul and boisterous weather, a very chaos of wind. and storm, against which it was vain to struggle. July 13th was still hazy with showers, but my patience was exhausted; and at 5 a. m. we started, and found our- selves in what might be called a continuous rapid, which after a Jew miles Avas joined by a stream from the left, divided at its confluence by an island near the centre. Near this was a lake, ruflied by a head wind, against which we had some difficulty in making way. Two or three hundred deer, and %. i: ft? < 248 JOUnNKV TO THE SHORES apart from them herds of musk oxen, worn cither graziiij; or »h;c|)iii)i5 on its western banks, whicli looletl j^rcen and swampy, and were all more or less cloven by inconsiderable ravines, with a clayey snrface. 'I'hese soon disappeared in the rising j^roiind, which, broken by isolated rocks r.iked and r>Mack, had its bonndary in a semicircular range of irngularly shaped hills. Wi:': For the first time in nine days the sun shone out in the morning, and 1 eagerly took occasion of the welcome visit to get sights; whilst in the meantime our hunters, unable to resist the tempting neighbourhood of so many animals, and fidgetty to try their new guns, were allowed to go in pursuit, with the express stipulation, however, that they were not to fire at the does or the last year's fawns. In less than an hour they returned with four bucks, which were just begin- ning to get into condition. The change of food was palata- ble enough to all parties; but as we had abundance of provi- sion, and the boat was already too much lumbered, 1 dis- couraged ail such pursuits for the present. The result of the observations gave the latitude 05° 38' 21" N., and longitude 106° 35' 23" W. This, as to the for- mer, agreed very well with the dead reckoning, but gave the latter more to the eastward. Having examined a line of deep rapids that had a clear lead, we did not hesitate to run them with full cargo, and in so doing passed some singularly serrated and rugged hills, which, stretching from the limit of view in round and naked masses, dipped into the water with a cu- riously diversified stratification at an angle of 170°. A white wolf, some geese, and partridges with young ones, were ob- served here. A small tributary came in from the left, and thence the river spread itself into several branches, which not a little puzzled me; though, as we were the.' oiiuated, m$^^ OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 249 the riglit channel for our purpose was obviously that which trended to the westward of north. Accordingly wc pulled towards that branch, and shortly opened a view to the S. E., so extensive that the extreme distance was definable only by a faint blue line. I was a little alarmed at such a syphon-like turn; yet I en- deavoured to persuade niysclf that the river would not ulti- mately deviate so very far from its original course, and went on to the western inlet. However, as wc advanced the opening assumed a more circular appearance, and the alti- tudes of the boundary hills became more and more equal and unbroken, until at last, when we got fairly to the en- trance, it was evidently only a bay. IJut though it could not be concealed that a range of low mountains, stretching in a direction N. W. and S. E., seemed to oppose an insur- mountable barrier to the onward course of the river in the direction of my hopes, yet, as there was one part Unexamin- ed, where a strong ripple with white waves had been seen, I was unwilling to abandon all hope until it had been ascer- tained what that ripple was. Accordingly a party crossed overland, and soon saw that the foam was caused by a heavy rapid which fell into the river at that part. My disappoint- ment and uneasiness may be conceived. All my plans and calculations rested on the assumption of the northerly course of the river; but this determined bend to the S. E. and the formidable barrier ahead seemed to indicate a very different course, and a termination not, as had been anticipated, in the Polar Sea, but in Chesterfield Inlet. However, be the issue what it might, Hudson's Bay or the Polar Sea — I had no alternative but to make for the S. E. We were at this time little more than a degree to the southward of the conflu- ence of Back's River with Bathurst's Inlet; but all hope that this river would prove identical with the Thlew-ee-choh, 32 250 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES II or that the latter would trend to the westward, was ; tterly extinguished. Our proximity to the coast, however, ex- plained the cold and dreary weather which had lately incom- moded us. m 1 m •■' mm- 'X '■■jit t i^l ^\ % % }V' : 1 . p,^ fe'. A fresh and fair wind now relieved the men from the la- bour of the oars, and we ran under the foresail (a lug) until 8 p. M. ; when, being stopped by a ridge of ice reaching from shore to shore, directly athwart our course, we hauled into a deep bay, and secured the boat in snug shelter under the lee of the weather land. The temperature had scarcely varied from 42°, and there was a chilliness in the wind which blew from the coast that made cloaks and blankets very accepta- ble. Towards the close of the day's journey the country as- sumed a more mountainous and imposing appearance, but continued rugged and desolate. Many parts bore a close re- semblance to the lava round Vesuvius, the intermediate spaces being filled up with green patches of meadow, which literal- ly swarmed with deer, not fewer than twelve or fifteen hun- dred having been seen within the last twelve hours. 14th of July. — During the night, the wind veered a couple of points to the northward, and increased to a gale, which made it impossible to move with our cargo. But, wishing to ascertain if there was any prospect of a lead through the ice inshore, the boat was sent quite light, with directions to the steersmpn to land, and examine the whole length along the western edge; and, at the same time, to see if the nature of the ground would allow of our making a portage. At 8 a.m. he returned, with a report that the ice was closely packed, with so heavy a surf running that any attempt to approach it might stave the boat; while the land side, he said, was equal- ly impracticable, owing to the unevenness of the rocks. There was, therefore, nothing left, but to remain patiently fiil'^' liW ,:;,: OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 251 until a change of wind or its violence should demolish the ice and make a passage for us. This accordingly was gra- dually effected, and about sunset we had the satisfaction Lo perceive a clear space, so far as could be judged up to the blue land in the distance. We now, therefore, only waited for an abatement of the gale to take advantage of this good fortune. The night was squally; but the wind having somewhat moderated, we got away at 5 o'clock on tlic following morn- ing, July 15th, the thermometer then standing at 38°. The stream still carried us to the south-east, and though the dif- ferent bays and openings to the westward were anxiously ex- amined, in the hope that a passage might be found through one of them, the land was found continuous, and still bore to the eastward. By 10 a. m. the mountains had dwindled to hills, which soon ave place to sand-banks, especially to the right; an ominous indication of the future course of the stream. The lake, which I have named after my friend Captain L3eechey, visibly decreased in breadth; and at length discharged itself by what, from the loud roar that was heard long before we got to it, was conjectured to be a fall, but which was found to be in fact an awful series of cascades, nfarly two miles in length, and making, in the whole, a de- scent of about sixty feet The right bank was the most fa- vourable for a portage, which we commenced without loss of time, while the two si:eersmen were despatched to examine the falls. Their report was, "that it was possible the boat might be got down, but they did not see how she ever could be got up again;" a consideration of no great moment yet, when we were not out of walking distance from the house, whatever it might become afterwards. Accordingly, having completed the portage, and made anotlier cache of pemmican and fat, to which was added a spare oar, the trial was made ■',A' 1: * -^ '1^! ».' ■ ■>• ■ 252 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES with the boat. She was first lifted over some obstacles, and then lowered cautiously down the different descents; and so alternately lifted, launched, and lowered, until she was safe- ly brought to the eddy below, which being also rough, she was finally hauled on the gravel. The observations to-day gave the latitude 65° 14' 44" N., longitude 106° 0' 53" W., and variation 39° 12' E. ; «o that it appeared we had got con- siderably to the southward and eastward of our position two days before. The country was still composed of the same variety of rocky hills and swampy prairies, though the latter were far more extensive, and, near the cascades, might be called plains, all thickly inhabited by doer. St rP--'-"'''' mi 1^''^''' 'i ' IMi i*^'''^'^ ''■■' J p;S,;, iip,':f' 9i-' fti hIIv ?■■ ■ 1 ■yaR'wm'ilf' ' IHIiK'f ''■' ,V.lM July 16th. — We embarked before 4 a. ai., and a strong current carried us to a broad part of the river, which, I was rejoiced to see, took a sudden turn to the northward; but at a detached conical hill, somowJiat farther on, it again bent suddenly to the southward, and, as their was no passage per- ceptible at its farther extremity, the crew jocosely said we should be sucked under ground. However, an extremely sharp angle led us between cliffs in a contracted channel into a rapid, at the foot of which it was necessary to land to avoid another, the waves of which were too high to allow of its be- ing run with the cargo. When lightened, the boat ran it uninjured. A loud roar of rushing water, heard for the distance of about a mile, had prepared us for a long line of rapids, which nowappcared breaking theirfurious way through mounds and ranges of precipitous sand-hills of the most fan- tastic outline. Some of them resembled parts of old ruins or turrets, and would have offered pleasing subjects for sketch- ing. The course of the river became afterwards more tortu- ous, and its clear blue tint yielded to an olive-green, more or less dark according to the character of the muddy tributaries OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 253 which poured in their contents from both sides. As we drew away from the influence of the cold winds coming from Ba- thurst's Inlet, a proportionate and most agreeable change took place in the weather; and at 2 p. m. of this day the ther- mometer stood at 68° in the shade, and 84° in the sun. We glided quickly along with the strong current, passing by peaked sand-hills, which rose like artificial structures amidst low shelving prairies, covered with deer to the amount of many thousands. After crossing a small lake, where the current could just be distinguished in the centre, the stream again contracted to about three hundred yards, and precipi- tated itself over a bed of rocks, forming rapids and cascades, which compelled us to carry the principal baggage; a precau- tion, indeed, never omitted when there was the least appear- ance of danger. Three detached and lofty hills of gneiss, with obtuse conical tops quite bare, here formed conspicuous objects. From the level character of the land to the east- ward, they could be seen at a great distance, and might thus serve as marks for any wanderers whom chance or design should bring to this far country. Indeed, that they had already been made use of for this purpose seemed to be indicated by numbers of piled stones, precisely similar in figure to those which I remember to have seen along the banks of the Coppermine River, as well as by some trenched divisions of ground, containing the moss- covered stones of circular encampments, evidently the work of the Esquimaux, on whose frontiers we had arrived. I confess that these unequivocal traces of the "shivering tenants" of the arctic zone did not a little surprise me; since on former occasions we had not found them at a distance from the coast. Was it possible, I asked myself, that we were nearer the sea than I had imagined.-' It was not likely 254 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES that they had come from Bathurst's Inlet, though not more than one hundred and seventeen miles off, for that lay to the north- ;vest, and they would fall on the river much nearer, namely, ct tho western extremity of Lake Beechey. On the other hand, if they came from the eastward, were they from Chesterfield Inlet, the western or nearest termination of which, according to Arrowsmith's map, was not less than one hundred and fifty-eight miles? By a minute inspection of the marks, I was at length satisfied that they all pointed N. E. and S. W. with as much precision as if they had heen so placed by compass, and hence concluded that it was ia the former bearing that we might expect to find the Esqu.- maux; though, whether far or near, we had as yet no means of determining. The river, from an imposing width, now gradually con- tracted to about fifty yards, and this narrow space had pro- jecting rocks which cc.opressed the passage still more. In th'^ language of voyageiirs, this form is denominated a spout; and the only danger attending the going through it is the risk of being throv/n into the eddy at an unfavourable moment; in which case, some serious accident is sure to occur. We ran this one, and were lifted considerably higher than the side water, as we shot down with fearful velocity. Fami- liar as I was with such scenes, I could not but feel thankful that we escaped safe, and determined for the future to lower down all others. The stream after these agitations settled into a calm though not very gentle current, which swept us opposite a magnificent river, as broad as the Thames at West- minster, joining the Thlcw-ee-choh from the eastward. Somo Esquimaux marks on the banks seemed to point this out as their line of route; and I was far from being convinced that it was not the The-lew, howevcj' much that opinion might be at variance with the accounts we had received from the tri'' OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 255 t more T to the nearer, On the ;y from tion of !ss than spection pointed lad been was in e Esqu •-- \o means ally con- had pro- lore. In I a spout; the risk moment; lur. We than the Fami- thankful to lower is settled [swept us at West- Somo out as ced that n might •om the Indians. * Whatever it was, it received the name of Bail- lie's River, after my worthy friend, George Baillie, Esquire, Agent General for Crown Colonies. Not a great way from this we encamped; and some explanations having been made to the crew, as to the caution which the smallness of our number rendered necessary, a regular watch was established, in which Mr. King undertook to look out from 10 p. m. to 4 a. m., the usual hour of starting. The following morning, instead of gaining to the west- ward, which various gleams of open water in that direction had again led us to hope, the river turned short round on the eastward; but after three or four miles, again resumed its old course. Sand-banks and islands were constantly met with; and from our ignorance of the channels between them, we were repeatedly aground. In hese cases, the people had to wade until the boat again floated freely, with the chance of being thrown into the same situation ten minutes after- wards. Since the junction of Baillie's River, the stream had sensibly widened; and had it not been for the strong purrent, might have been taken for a lake. It was bordered on either side by a low sandy district, studded with a few inconsider- able rocky hills, mostly detached, and a mile or two from each other. Even these soon disappeared, giving place to an alluvial deposii, so flat as scarcely to rise beyond the ge- neral horizontal line, and to raise our hopes of being near the sea; a notion rendered more probable by the great resem- blance of the country to the western mouth of the M*Ken- zie. Once, indeed, some of the party imagined that they saw tents; but these, as we advanced, proved to be nothing but a solitary and luxuriant border of fine willows, the secure * From a minute iiKfuiry made afterwards, I have every reason to believe that tlio Tiic-levv lulls into Chesterfield Inlet. 256 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES fi i retreat of hundreds of geese, which having lately cast their large quill feathers, were unahle to f\y; though, aided by instinct and good legs for running, they frequently eluded our most active hunters. If in the water, which, however, they took all pains to avoid — they had recourse to diving; and on rising to breathe, merely exposed their heads and a small part of the back, so that often they were not seen, and still oftener missed when fired at. On land, they either had a fair run for it, or plunged into any cover that happened to be near; through which, however thick, they waddled sufii- ciently quick to double on their pursuers, and lead them into many ludicrous situations which called forth the merriment of the rest. The low land was now diversified by occasional mounds; and presented an opening to the left caused by a river which was called after Captain Superintendent Sir Samuel Warren, of Woolwich Dock Yard. The, banks here were higher, sometimes rising into cliffs, but of the same dry and sandy character, barren and cheerless. Again, trending more to the eastward, we passed Jervoise River, another large tribu- tary from the right; and then came to a low sandy opening, which seemed to be completely shut in, until at the northern limit a rapid channel led us among some rocks that appeared to extend from an adjacent height towards a range of hills to the north-west. The sun being too low to allow of our run- ning the rapids before us, we encamped. There were some musk oxen here; but neither they nor even the deer or geese were startled, unless they saw some one actually going to- wards them. The observations to-day gave the latitude 65° 9' 12" N., longitude 103° 33' 8" W., and the variation 30° 6' E. ; thus showing that we had made nearly all easting. The threatening appearance of the curling waves, and the roar and gloom of a defile along which our course now lay, OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 257 ;ast their aided by y eluded lowever, ) diving; ads and a seen, and ■ither had ppened to died sufli- them into nerriment il mounds; iver which ;1 Warren, re higher, 1 and sandy more to arge tribu- opening, northern appeared of hills to our run- were some er or geese going to- ititude 65° iation 30° 11 easting. s, and the e now lay, rendered it necessary to examine what there might be to con- tend with among the frowning rocks, which, overlapping as they receded, seemed to the eye as if they blocked up the passage. Some time was unavoidably spent in doing this; and the report was an expression of the same sort of doubt as on a former occasion. This, however, I looked for as c" course; for it could not be expected that the steersmen, how- ever excellent in their capacity, should be equally anxious to proceed as myself: their predictions of the difficulties we should encounter on our return were, on the contrary, fre- quent, though I parried them by referring to my experience in these latitudes, and to the entire alteration produced by the different periods of the season in the character of the ri- vers; with which reasonings they were generally satisfied. It may perhaps appear to some persons that to persuade those whom I might have commanded was a gratuitous and unne- cessary trouble; but it should be borne in mind that, in ser- vices not purely military, the party is not, and cannot be, brought under strict habits of discipline. The success of such an expedition depends materially on the temper and disposi- tion of the leading men, who must sometimes be reasoned with, and at others kept in check, as circumstances may di- rect. It is necessary that they should feel a confidence in and attachment to their leader, not paying a mere sulky obe- dience to his orders; and what they do will thus be done heartily and with good will, not as the cold fulfilment of a contract. Early in the following morning we pushed out into the be- ginning of the rapids, when the boat was twirled about in whirlpools against the oars; and but for the amazing strength of M'Kay, who steered, it must inevitably have been crush- ed against the faces of the protruding rocks. As we entered the defile, the rocks on the right presented a high and perpen- 33 m% "Vi'It/ 'I'! H i 258 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES M:J I dicular front, so slaty and regular that it needed no force of imagination to suppose them severed at one great blow from the opposite range; which, craggy, broken, and overhanging, towered in stratified and many-coloured masses far above the chafing torrent. There was a deep and settled gloom in the abyss — the cfiect of which was heightened by the hollow roar of the rapid, still in deep s) de, an' by the screaming of thri J large hawks, which, frifit'^n : from their aerie, were hovering high above the mida^> o' iir ;.ass, and gazing fix- edly upon the first intruders on ;• .^r soii* de; so that I felt relieved as it were from a load when we ouce more burst forth into the bright sunshine of day. The boat was then allowed to drive with the current, the velocity of which was not less than six miles an hour, among whirlpools and eddies, which strangely buffeted her about. The men, glad to rest from their oars, were either carelessly looking at the objects which they passed, or whifiing the ever welcome pipe, when something was seen swimming a little ahead, v/hich was taken for a young fawn. As we nearly touched it in passing, the bowman, almost without looking, stretched out his hand to grasp it; but drew it in again as quick as lightning, and springing up for the boat-hook, called ou+, "D — n it, it has bit me! it's a fox." I would not allow it to be fired at; and Reynard gained the bailk, and skipped about as if enjoying the trick he had played. Still widening, the river rolled on without obstruction, be- ing here large enough to remind me of the M'Kenzie. Heavy and long borders of thick ice, with a great deal of snow, were on the sides of the sloping hanks, full ten feet above the pre- sent level. As we advanced still most provokingly to the eastward, a large river, nearly as broad as that which we were descending, came through a low country to the right, and after many windings effected a junction round a little OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 259 sandy bluff. It was named after Rcar-Admiral M'Kinley, who has uniformily evinced a great interest in the recent voyages of discovery. The land then became more uneven, ?nd soon changed into hills, partly composed of bare rocks, with loose masses on them. On one, indeed, something higher than the rest, we thought for a long time there was a man; but afterwards the general opinion determined it to be a heap of stones, possibly placed there by the Esquimaux. And this was the more probable, as on arriving opposite to another wide tributary, called, after his Majesty's Consul at New York, Buchanan's River, a great number of marks were seen distributed at particular points, and on commanding eminences along the banks, apparently for the purpose of either frightening the deer, which were plentiful as usual, into a particular course, or as places of ambush when in quest of them. The latter I think the more likely; because at cer- tain distances along the line of marks there were semicircular skreens built of stones, having the high part, of from two to three feet, towards the open country, and the sloped or ex- posed side facing the river, under the banks of which the hunters would be effectually hid in passing to their lurking stations; while even if the deer were not only in front of the marks, but also between them and the water's edge, tliey might still be useful as a cover, and a communication miglit be kept up by crawling from one to another. The breadth of the river now varied from a quarter to a mile and half; and, what exceedingly delighted me, it made a bend to the north. The country became decidedly hilly, with an odd mixture of ravines, conical sand hills with black mossy tops, and isolated rocks, which rose like sombre for- tresses over the green and yellow soil +c die westward. It looked as if constant floods had washed away the lighter earth, and left those solid masses as monuments of their rav- ;l ' !*■."■•'/> * 3G0 JOURNEY TO THE SIIOIIES ages. We made for a distant blue peak, and passed a cluster of islands; one of wliicli was reniarkahli^ for being overgrown witb willows, wbile its neigbbours were as sterile as llie de- sert. Keeping close to tbe western sliore, we rounded a jutting point, and opened upon a deep bay wbicb receiveiJ tbe waters of a broad river. Tbis river bas been named after my mucb respected friend Captain Superintendent Sir Cbarles IJullen,. of Pembroke Dock Yard, under wbosc command I had once the happiness to serve. It is dillicult to conjecture where it may take its rise; but from the powerful effect upon the current at two miles below its mouth, there can be no doubt that an immense body of water flows through its chan- nel. A little beyond, a wide westerly bay almost tempted us to search for an outlet, the current having now got so slack as to be impercf;)tible; and numerous islands and openings at difierent bearings occasioned some embarrassment as to the course, until, after pulling inshore a little, the loom of a large sheet of ice arrested our attempt in that quarter; and having again regained the current, we yielded ourselves to its guid- anccj and were again led to the eastward. .•<:>■ The weather had been variable, and the thermometer as high as 68°, in the afternoon; but the sky suddenly became overcast, and heavy black clouds rolled from the N. W., which, bursting with violent squalls, poured down rattling showers of sleet. The storm, however, passed away, and the evening was fine enough to draw out some swarms of jnosquitos, that failed not to "take the goods the gods pro- vided," when we encamped, as we were obliged to do, on the edge of a swamp. From the more hilly character and general trending of the shore, I entertained a hope that wc should be led Lo the north; and most devoutly did I wish to arrive at the gneiss formation, being certain that to reach the sea in the desired direction, the river must cut its way }r K •■•; ^i^^'^% t ^i . OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 2fil throuj^h rocks of somo kiiul, as I had previously observed in lhe('o))i)enuiiie and M'Kcn/ie. In my desire to obtain sonic further knowledge of the course, 1 ascended a distant hill, ^roin the summit of which, witii the help of my glass, I could discern several extensive slicets of water in almost op- posite bearings, one of them being due south; but owing to the intervention of rocks, and uneven ground for about two miles in the line of my view, it was impossible to determine whether they were separate or formed one continuous water. The doubt, however, was cleared up at an early hou: on the succeeding morning (Jidy IfHh;) for the current, to which wc yielded ourselves, in a short time lost itself in a large lak i, full of deep bays; one, indeed, with a clear and uninterrupt- ed horizon, but glimmering with firm ice. Having taken a more northerly course than before, and jiassed two openings of about fifteen and twenty miles in ex- tent, we landed on an island for the purpose of making a third cache of pemmican. From this point I got cross bearings, and a view of another opening almost entirely covered with unbroken ice: a piece of an old kieyak,* blanched with age, and other remnants of Esquimaux woikmanship, showed that the place was frequented by them at some part of the year. The opening itself was distinguished by the name of Lake Pelly, after the liberal and spirited Governor of tlie Hud- son's Bay Company. Leaving the island, a slight Current piloted us to a rapid, near which the latitude was obtained, and informed us that indefatigable as our exertions had been we had gained but little northing, and had abundance of hard work in prospect before we should be p-^rmitted to taste salt water. As for *Es(iuimaux canoe. 262 JOURNEY TO TnK SHORES if m m: the men, the majority inclined to a tale tohl them hy an In- dian, whom I had not seen, — that before arriving at the sea, they woidd find an immense lake, with siicli deep bays that no Indian had ever been round them; these he said, lay to the eastward, but they must be careful to keep on its western side, and by so doing would arrive at a steep and heavy fall between high rocks; this the boat would not be able to pass, but from thence they might easily walk to the "bad water;" near which, he assured them, they would also certainly find the Esquimaux. It was true that we had consiiicrahly stray- ed from the direction thus indicated, and had come more than double the distance at which the Indian placed the sea; but still, here was a large lake with bays answering to the description, or it might be that we should come to another still larger; after which, it was their opinion, the remainder would be verified. The strong current from the rapid gave us some expecta- tion that the tediousness and uncertainty of winding and groping our way in the lake was at an end; but, to our cha- grin and annoyance, we soon again found ourselves in a wide indefinable space, studded with islands of sand-hills, with, oc- casionally, a clear horizon towards the S. and N. W. The difficulty of finding the river increased as we advanced amid this labyrinth, between the openings of which distant land could sometimes be faintly discovered. The unwelcome glare of ice was also seen. From time to time we found a current; still we were baflled, and had often to turn on our track, only perhaps to make another deviation. At length we observed a number of grayling playing in a nar- row, and rising at the flies which fell accidentally into the water; and aware that these fish usually frequent the outlets and channels of connecting water, we profited by the hint, and so far had reason to be satisfied with our judgment. But ?kK- O* THE AHCTIC SEA. S()3 towards cvcninj!; ourliopen were nj^aiu blightcul by the ntart- lint; sijfht of extensive and unljrukeii lields ol" ice, stn^tching to tlie exlrcmest point of vision. Seeing, tlierelbre, iio chance of further projjress at prc«"nt, I encamped on a s|)ot which, judginj^ from the circles of stones found rejruhirly phiced, had doubth'ss at some time been used by the Estiuiinaux for the same jjurposc. We were on an island; and the ridges and cones of sand were not only pf great heiglit, but singularly crowned with immense l)oul(lers, gray with lichen, which assuredly would have been considered as having i)cen placed by design, had not the impossibility of moving such enormous masses proved incontestlbly that it was Nature's work. It was with indescribable sorrow that I beheld from one of these bouKitiS a firm field of old ice, which had not yet been disturbed from its winter station. The nearest land was a bold rocky bluft' about ten miles to the northward, hut receding thence to an indistinct outline; the southward view offered nothing more encouraging, for the shore in that direction was low and dis- tant; while to the eastward, which was manifestly our course, a black line, supposed to be water, just bordered the horizon. The whole of this expanse was scaled with ice; and with the exception of a lane of open water from our encampment to a sand-hill in the south-west, and some small holes too remote from each other to serve any purpose, there was not a place that could with any certainty be fixed on as affording a pass- age. Nevertheless the attempt was made the next morning a little past 3 a. m. ; and though without the slightest idea of getting beyond the sand-hill, I c ccted the steersman to pull for it: in doing which we soon lo!L 266 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES %. i I'i distance, interrupted occasionally by jutting points, over which in some places it was again visible. A small southerly channel, however, led to some islands, and for these we steer- ed, but soon became hampered with surrounding ice. The same mode of proceeding was therefore adopted as on the preceding day; and in four hours we were lucky enough to have advanced eight miles, tliough not in the direct line of our course. Some open water was then seen to the north; and though doubtful if the river would be in that quarter or more to the eastward, I stood over for it, as the inclination of a line of sand-hills rather favoured the former opinion. With a little difficulty we succeeded in reaching a lane, which ultimately led us to the main land, against whose rocky sides ti>e ice again abutted. A portage was immediately made, and the boat lifted over into the water. In ten minutes we were again stopped by ice, so thick that all our endeavours to cut a passage with the axes, and break it as had been hith- erto done, v/erc utterly in vain. Another place, which seemed to offer fewer obstacles, was tried with the same re- sult; we therefore landed and made a second portage across the rocks, which brought us to a sheet of water terminating in a rapid; and this, though seldom a pleasing object to those who have to go down it, was now joyfully hailed by us as the end of a lake which had occasioned us so much trouble and delay. In summer, however, or more properly speak- ing, autumn, tliis lake must be a splendid sheet of water; wherefore, regarding it apart from the vexations which it had caused me, I bestowed upon it the name of Lake Garry, after Nicholas Garry, Esq., of the Hudson's Bay Company, to whose disinterested zeal in the cause of polar discovery, and undeviating kindness to all connected with it, such honourable testimony has been borne by Sir Edward Parry and Sir John Franklin that to dwell on them here is super- fluous. OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 267 CHAPTER XL Gigantic Boulders.— Danger fromthe. Rapids.— Course of the River. — Lake Macdoiigall.-Hazardons Passage.— Sinclair's Falls.— Northerly Bend of the River. — Mount Meadowbank. — Allitudc of the Rocks. — The Trap Formation. — M'Kaijs Peak. — Lake Franklin. — Extrication from Peril. — Sluggishness of the Com- pass.— Esquimaux. — Portrait of a Female. — Victoria Headland. — Mouth of the Thlew-ee-choh.—Cockhurn Bay.— Point Back/wuse. Irby and Mangles' Bay. — Point Beaufort. — Our Progress arrested. —Montreal Island.— A Musk-Ox killed.— Birds on the Island.— Elliot Bay. — MKay, etc. sent along the Coast.— Esquimaux En- campments.—Cape Hay. —Point Ogie.— Progress obstrticted by the Ice. — A Piece of Drift-wood found. — Ross Island. — Discoveries by Mr. King. — Magnetic Observations. — Point Richardson. — Point Hardy. — Conjectures as to a N. W. Passage and Channel to Re- gent's Inlet. Congratulating one another on our release, we went on with renewed spirits. Much ice was carried down the rapid, which, instead of going into the wide space in front, was impelled suddenly to the eastward, and thence again hurried by a strong northerly current into a branch of another lake, the bays of which were not less than from twelve to fifteen miles deep. Long ranges of conical and cliff-broken sand- 1 i r I 268 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES mn':i if' . hills extended irregularly nearly round the compass, but mostly to the northward and westward, towards which direc- tion the stream ran with immense force. There were no rocks visil)lc nearer than Lake Garry; but gigantic boulders were strewe-l in every direction, and in two instances were seen on the summits of conical and isolated sand-hills, much resembling those previously mentioned. One of these was very conspicuous, as well from its height as from its situa- tion in the centre of the river, thus forming an excellent mark for the rapid from any direction. The thermometer had been as high as 102° in the sun, and was 56° in the shade, ■with a S. E. wind, so as to create considerable refraction during the greater part of the day. The evening, however, was cool; and a little past 8 r. m. we encamped. The following day we got away at the usual hour, with the advantage of a swift current, which now swept to the northward, and in about an hour brought us to a strong rapid, the descent of which looked exceedingly like going down hill. After the usual examination, the steersmen were de- sirous of lightening the boat before running it, but the water was too shoal for landing, and we were obliged to pole up a small rapid to an island; whence it was at length decided, as no eligible landing-place could be found above or below it, to risk the descent with the whole cargo. It was a case of necessity; so off wq pushed, and in a few minutes were plunged into the midst of curling waves and large rocks; but the coolness of the crew, and the great dexterity of the bow and steersmen, avoided each danger as it arose. At length, however, one towering wave threw us on a rock, and something crashed; luckily we did "ot hang, for nothing could have resisted the force of the torrent, and the slightest check at such a time would have been inevitable destruction to the w.'.oie party. After being whirled to and fro by the OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 269 irfs, but 1 direc- ,'crc no ouldcrs es were 5, much cse was s situa- xcellent IOmeter e shade, :fraction owevcr, ar, with it to the ig rapid, g down tvere de- e water lie up a ided, as clow it, case of s were rocks; of the le. At la rock, [nothing ightcst ruction by the velocity of counter-currents, we escaped from this without other damage than a broken keel plate — an accident which left that part from thenceforth undefended — but rapid still followed rapid in disagreeably quick succession, and I was not a little rejoiced when we were again fairly in smooth water; for the lakes we had passed, with their unknown but assuredly distant boundaries, and the numerous deep bays and other impediments to aland journey, such as I had acute reasons for remembering, made the safety of the boat a para- mount consideration. Not that all ordinary accidents which could befall men in our situation had not been already con- templated, and as far as my ability extended provided for; but these hourly demands on the nerves brought possible contingencies more home, and made them sink deeper into the mind. In short, I could not divest myself of those cares and anxieties which every conscientious officer must feel for those, be they few or many, who look up to him for safety and direction. Much to our satisfaction the river kept to the northward, and gave us the hope of making a little latitude, now be- come extremely desirable; when suddenly, notwithstanding the long view ahead, towards .vhicli the current seemed to be setting, it turned off at a right angle, and opened into a spacious lake, the extremity o( which could not be discern- ed. With singular eccentricity, however, it soon again trended northward through a wide space with many deep bays, some of which were totally covered with ice. The islands were also numerous; and having passed between two where there was a rapid, we 'came to so great an extent of water and ice, land being not visible to the north, that the steersman exclaimed, "All the lakes we had yet seen are nothing to this one!" In its large expanse the current was soon lost, and proportionate embarrassment was occasioned '''m •'i^, -♦^S TT. W\ i bM 270 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES -*:, ii;::*' !« US in deciding; on the most probable direction for striking on the river. Several likely openings near sand-hills were ex- plored incflcctually between north and east; for I was un- willing to think it would be found elsewhere. We rested on the oars, but the boat remained motionless, and gave no clue to the current; nor was it until I imagined that I caught the faint sound of a fall, that we reluctantly pulled along a bor- der of firm ice which took us away due south, a direction the very opposite of that to which my wishes tended, and look- ing directly towards Chesterfield Inlet, — the proximity of which, I will not deny, began to give me serious uneasiness. Still keeping south, we threaded a zigzag passage through a barrier of ice, and were then Ifid by the increasing noise to the end of the lake, which received the name of "Lake Macdougall," after my friend the Lieutenant-Colonel of the gallant 79ih Highlanders. 7 I Bending short round to the left, and in a comparatively contracted channel, the whole force of the water glided smoothly but irresistibly towards two stupendous gneis^ rocks, from five to eight hundred feet high, rising like islands on either side. Our first care was to secure the boat in a small curve to the left, near which the river disappcaved in its de- scent, sending up showers of spray. We found it was hot one fall, as the hollow roar had led us to believe, but a suc- cession of falls and cascades, and whatever else is horrible in such "confusion worse confounded." It expanded to about the breadth of four hundred yards, having near the centre an insulated rock about three hundred feet high, having the same barren and naked appearance as those on each side. From the projenion of the main western shore, which con- cealed the opening, issued another serpentine rapid and fall; while to the right there was a strife of surge and rock, the roar of which was heard far and wide. The space occupying OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 271 'iking on were ex- was un- rested on e no clue aught the ng a bor- ection the and look- ximity of neasiness. through a g noise to of "Lake ncl of the parativcly er glided eis^j rocks, islands on in a small in its de- t was hot DUt a RUC- lorrible in to about le centre laving the sach side. lich con- and fall; rock, the iccupying the centre from the first descent to tlic island was full of sunken rocks of uncq\ial heights, over which the rapid foam- ed and boiled, and rushed with impetuous and deadly fury. At that part it was raised into an arch; wliilc the sides were yawning and cavernous, swallowing hugh masses of ice, and then again tossing the splintered fragniculs high into the air. A more terrific sight could not welt be conceived, and the impression which it produced was apparent on the counte- nances of the men. The portage was over scattered dcfjris of the rocks (of which tAvo more with perpendicular and rounded sides formed a kind of wall to the left,) and allbrd- ed a rugged and difficult way to a single rock at the foot of the rapid, about a mile distant. Tlie bout was emptied of her cargo, but was still too heavy to l)c carried more than a few yards; and, whatever the cousecjucnce, tlicre was thus no alternative but to try the falls. Every precaution that experience could devise was adopt- ed; double lines to the bow and stern were held on shore by the most careful of the men, and IVI'Kay and Sinclair took their stations at each end of the boat with poles, to keep lier from dashing against the rocks. It was no comnion attempt, and excited in me the most lively concern for their safety. Repeatedly did the strength of the current hurl the boat within an inch of destruction, and as often did these able and intrepid men ward off the threatened danger. Still, amongst the many descents, she did not escape without some severe shocks, in one of which the remaining keel plate was entirely stripped away; but cool, collected, prompt to understand and obey the mutual signs which eacli made to the other with the hand — for their voices were inaudible — the gallant fellows finally succeeded in guiding her down in safety to tiie last fall. There she was taken out of the water, and, with the assistance of Mr. King and myself, was, though with dilli- m ■¥i ti-a ■> I. in«i 070 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES w I, culty, carried below it. On our return to the bajjigagc, I gave the men a good glass of grog, with praises whicli they had well earned; and all being weary with exertion, we en- camped for the night. At 3h. 30m. A. m. of the 23d, the people began carrying the pemmican and boxes across, a task wliich the loose and slip- pery stones made by no means easy; and aware that it would take them ill noon to complete the work, I, gladly availed myself of the opportunity to obtain observations; the result of which was, latitude G5° 54' 18" N., longitude 98° 10' 7" W., variation ^9° 16' E. ; thus showing a dimunition of the latter as we made northing: and indeed, the powerful action of some influence was apparent in the increasing sluggishness of the compass, which of late required to be frequently tap- ped at the sides to make it move. But the most interesting observations were those for dip and intensity, particularly with Hansteen's needle. The former was taken with a ver- tical compass by Dollond, which was very dull and heavy, making few vibrations; and when within 10° or 15° from its last vibration, swagging, and ultimately stopping suddenly. For the latter a hoii/ontal one was used, which moved re- markably slow, and sc< nied to hang at the extremity of every oscillation; but still vibrated longei" and more steadily than might have been expected after the working of the other. I had now also leisure to ascend the highest of the rocks, which had a smooth table summit of quartz, red felspar, and horneblendc, the red predominating at that part, though par- tially covered with a gray and minute yellow lichen. The Esquimaux had here erected a small ol)elisk of slabs, placed perpendicularly on each other; and within a few paces of it were t vo morn marks, one consisting of three longitudinal fragments resting against and supporting each other, so as to ^ m OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 273 form a triangular pyramid; the other also of three pieces, but so placed as to form three sides of a parallelogram. The use of the last one I could not divine, since it was too large for a fireplace, of which, indeed, there was no trace, and not se- cure enough for a cache. Among the loose debris, a cache might have been made safe even from the plundering wol- vereens; but in a situation so exposed there could be no se- curity. I could only conjecture that it might, perhaps, serve as a place of watch and concealment on hunting or other ex- cursions which might bring the adventurer within reach of an enemy's arrow. These piles, like those farther south, point- ed north-east, and not due south to Chesterfield Inlet; which at this point was not more than ninety -four miles from us, and towards which, until the turn at the Rock Rapid (our present encampment), the Thlew-ee-choh seemed to be di- rectly tending. The prospect before us, viewed with a telescope from the commanding eminence of the rock, extended to an immense distance; but in no manner aided to clear up the doubt of what would be the ultimate course of the river. For at the utmost limit to the south-east, mingling with the white haze of the atmosphere, water was distinctly seen; which, by fol- lowing the windings of the valleys, could be traced to about four miles of where we stood, this short intermediate space being occupied by a line of shallow rapids. To the north- east, indeed, interrupted glimpses were caught of a serpentine stream leading to some sand-hills; but, made cautious by dis- appointment, we put little faith in such appearances. Whilst making these observations, I had not once turned round; but now doing so with the intention of proceeding on the voyage, I perceived, to my amazement, that there was uo spray rising from the rapid, and that its deafening roar 33 -•jI w "^ ^, < 1 1K r^ 1 Ht •V: It )» :! 1.- t 274 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES had subsided into a grindinj"; and hollow noise, which betok- ened the destruction of whatever it was which caused it. A phenomenon so utterly at variance with wlmt had existed an hour before made me hasten down, more, however, to look after the boat, than for the satisfaction of any curiosity, as upon consideration I could not but infer that it was the ice driven by the wind and current together from Lake Mac- dougall, that was choking up the rapid. And so it proved; it was the disruption of the main body of the ice, or, as it is called, the last break up of the season, when fine weather may be expected. With this new obstacle there was no im- mediate contending; for in such a torrent the boat would have been crushed to atoms. At length, however, the stream, w^hich rushed with amazing velocity, by 5 p. m. so far clear- ed itself as to allow of our loading the boat; not, however, without risk from the floating pieces which yet remained beating about in the eddy, and which it required the entire attention of two men to keep off. Scarcely had we pushed from the shore, when we were in the midst of rapids. Two were run; but the third was too dangerous to allow the at- tempt; consequently again we had to carryall the cargo across a portage of half a mile, while the boat so lightened was brought safely down the rapid. The opposite shore was then disco- vered to be an island, round the western extremity of which another branch of the river cut a broad channel, and joined the one we had selected by a fall of ten feet. A quarter of a mile below the junction, this extraordinary stream was checked by a shelving ledge of low rocks that turned it to the north, in the direction of the sand-hills which we had seen in the early part of the day. An overcast and stormy niglit, with much rain, brought in a morning which forbade the attempt to start, as it was im- practicable, with such a ga!c, to keep the lead in the rapid -^' \S\ '*: V- OF TIIK ARCTIC SEA. 275 cli botok- led it. A •xistcd an r, to look riosity, as as the ice akc Mac- it proved; or, as it is ic weather ^as no im- loat would he stream, ) far clear- however, remained the entire tve pushed ids. Two ow the at- •go across a as brought hen disco- j of which md joined quarter of ream was rned it to 1 we had brought in it was im- the rapid before us; so that thoro was no choice but 1o wait until it should calm. In the meantime, JVI'Kay was sent to examine the river farther down, and returned about noon with an ac- count of several raj)ids and a large fall not far from us, and of having seen some marks on his way. In the afternoon, the journey was resumed; and having followed the turn to the north, and got down the rapids, we made a portage at Sinclair's Falls; so named after one of the steersmen, who has been already frequently mentioned, and who was so com- plete a boatman as to be equal to the duty of the bow also, which station indeed he had all along fdled. The river was now near a mile broad, full of small rocky islands, with falls between each, not unlike the Pelican Fall in the Slave River. The boat was lowered down; and fol- lowing tlie bend, which was bordered by the sand-hills, we came to an opening disclosing some distant mountains, to- wards which it was thought our course would lie. Conjec- ture, however, was useless: even here, we were twice thrown out by the overlapping of low points and by counter currents; but at last we found a wide channel running to the S. E. At its entrance the fourth cache of pemmican was made; and as it was too late to see the stones in the water, we encamped. July 25th. — The weather was raw and cold, though the wind was southerly, and the thermometer 48°. The banks on either side were, low, but curiously paved with round stones, probably forced in by ledges of grounded ice. The next reach turned to the northward, and became so wide that it might well have been called, a lake. Such expansions al- ways occasioned us some perplexity, from the uncertainty and difficulty there was in tracing the run of the current. In this instance, however, it was less inconstant than usual, is* IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I L£|2j8 |25 ■ 2.2 i; L£ 12.0 1.25 i 1.4 i.6 V .^ ^"^jf Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716)872-4503 ■^ ) V kr ^^^ ^^<- v.^^ ^ ^/.x t „!' ml'- k- 1 i ■' 276 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES and for a few miles continued nearly in the same course; when, after gradually contracting, it was broken by a mile of heavy and dangerous rapids. The boat was lightened, and every care taken to avoid accidents; but so overwhelming was the rush and whirl of the water, that she, and conse- quently those in her, were twice in the most imminent dan- ger of perishing by being plunged into one of the gulfs formed in the rocks and hollows of the rapid. It was in one of those singular and dangerous spots, which partake of the triple character of a fall, rapid, and eddy in the short space of a few yards, that the crew owed their safety solely to an unin- tentional disobedience of the steersman's directions. The power of the water so far exceeded whatever had been wit- nessed in any of the other rivers of the country, that the same precautions successfully used elsewhere were weak and unavailing here. The steersman was endeavouring to clear a fall and some sunken rocks on the left, but the man to whom he spoke misunderstood him, and did exactly the reverse; and now, seeing the danger, the steersman swept round the boat's stern: instantly it was caught by an eddy to the right, which, snapping an oar, twirled her irresistibly broad side on; so that for a moment it seemed uncertain whether the boat and all in her were to be hurled into the hollow of the fail, or dashed stern foremost on the sunken rocks. Something per- haps wiser than chance ordained it otherwise; for how it happened no account can be given, but so it was that her head swung inshore towards the beach, and thereby gave Sinclair and others an opportunity of springing into the wa- ter, and thus, by their united strength, rescuing her from her perilous situation. Now had the man to whom the first order was given understood and acted upon it, no human power could have saved the crew from being buried in the frightful abyss. Nor yet could any blame be justly attached to the steersman: he had never been so situated before; and '*■!. ; course; a mile of jned, and vhelming id conse- ncnt dan- fs formed B of those the triple space of a 3 an unin- ms. The been wit- , that the weak and ig to clear 1 to whom e reverse; round the the right, id side on ; the boat le fail, or thing per- or how it that her reby gave to the wa- her from n the first 10 human ied in the y attached fore; and OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 277 even in this imminent peril his coolness and self-possession never forsook him. At the awful moment of suspense, when one of the crew with less nerve than his companions began to cry aloud to Heaven for aid, M'Kay, in a still louder voice, exclaimed, "Is this a time for praying? Pull your starboard oar." "Heaven helps those who help themselves" seems to have been the creed of the stout-hearted highlander. On the eastern side we noticed some marks, as well as the remains of an Esquimaux encampment; but nothing which denoted when they had been there. Having made another cache of pemmican, at the foot of Escape Rapid, in order to lighten the boat as much as possible, we pursued our course; but had not got more than two miles farther, when a thick fog and pelting rain obscured the view, and obliged us to land for shelter. As soon as it cleared, which was not before the evening, we renewed the attempt; and were urged by a strong current considerably to the eastward, the river now taking that direction through a range of cliffy sand-hills, in which, on some occasions of more than common obstruction, its eddies had scooped out extensive basins. The current, always swift, now rushed on still faster, and soon became a line of heavy rapids, which more than once made me trem- ble for our poor boat; for in many parts, not being able to land, we were compelled to pull hard to keep her under command, and thus flew past rocks and other dangers with a velocity that seemed to forebode some desperate termination: happily, however, we escaped; though only to begin another series. Along the banks of these last lay several dead deer, which had doubtless been drowned in attempting to swim to the opposite side. At 8 p. m. we arrived near a detached mountainous rock dipping to the western shore of the river, in which quarter the descent, now manifest, as well as the hollow roar, plainly indicated something which at that late liour it '^1 i: ^^ J" If il l*fc - ' . 278 JOT7RN15Y TO THE ^1 'HES was prudent to avoid; and, to say the truth, however habit may in most things produce a sort of callous indifference to danger, I had abundant ptDof this day that the rule does not always hold good, for the very e/i/e of my men were begin- ning to evince a cautiousness which was quite new to them; and the order fur encamping was executed with a very signi- ficant alacrity. Within a few hundred yards of us, nine white wolves were prowling round a herd of musk ox'jn, one of which was shot; but, being a bull, was too strongly scented to be eaten. As there was no possibility of making a portage, should it be necessary, on the side where we had encamped, at daylight of the following morning we pulled up stream to cross over, and see if it was more favourable on the other side. The descent broke over a fall live feet deep, opposite to a gloomy chasm in the rock; but as it did not reach (piite to the eastern side, the boat was enabled to pass it, and then ran the Wolf Rapid. Some of the animals whose name it bore seemed to be keeping a brisk look-out for what might happen. Several other rapids (for there was no end of them) work- ed their way between high rocks, which now, for the first time since the river had turned so much to the eastward, lay on that side; a circumstance that I thought augured well for a nor^jjierly bend at no great distance. But what most grati- fied me was the disappearance of the sand-hills, which I beheld as so many enemies to our cause, that were gradually leading us away to the wrong side of our object. My joy, therefore, may be imagined at seeing, as we advanced, that my hopes were, after all, likely to be realized; for the late suspicious trending to the eastward, almost in a parallel of latitude, had again created doubts in my mind, and set me OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 279 irer habit jrencc to does not re begin- to them; ;ry signi- Ives were was shot; iten. As oulcl it be aylight of •OSS over, de. The a gloomy he eastern I the Wolf seemed to em) work- the first tward, lay well for nost grati- which I gradually My joy, need, that • the late larallel of nd set me speculating whether the river might not yet terminate in Wager Bay. Another cache was made, with the addition of a little am- munition and tobacco. Some more rapids led farther to the north; and the stream, as may be supposed, after the addi- tion of so many tributaries, maintained an imposing breadth, being, in some parts, upwards of a mile. IJoth sides were hemmed in by mountains, covered as usual with boulders and large fragments of loose splintery rock, the dark and purplish hue of which relieved the green shelving slopes dotted with herds of musk oxen. A glimpse of the sun at noon gave the latitude fi6° G' 24" N. ; nearly abreast of a picturesque and commanding moun- tain, with steep sloping sides to the south-west, where cattle were feeding, but to the northward broken into fearful pre- cipices and overhanging cliffs, inaccessible to the foot cf man. It was by far the most conspicuous eminence we had seen; and, from some fancied likeness, the people said, "Here's Hoy Head, — give way, boys, we arc not far from the sea." The rcTiiark took me in imagination to Auld Reekie; and I called the hill Mount Meadowbank, in honour of the learned lord of that name. After a course of six miles to the south-east, the river again veered northerly, rushing with fearful impetuosity among rocks and large stones, which raised such whirlpools in the rapids as would have put the strength of a canoe in jeopardy. The boat's breadth of beam and steady trim kept her up in such trials; but, though we escaped the rapid, we had a nar- row chance of being dashed on the beach by the eddy. The low projecting point of rock, against which we had been thus almost thrown and then whirled away from by the receding 280 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES current, was remarkable for a row of piled stones or slabs, placed a few feet apart, which, as wc shot the rapid, were at first mistaken for figures gazing at us. On the neighbouring hills and mountains were many more of a similar construction, which, we could easily understand, might serve for marks to guide the natives through the country; but for what purpose this "picquet" mounted guard at the foot of the rapid, was not quite so clear to our comprehensions. r 1 , To the westward the rocks attained considerable altitude, and, comparatively speaking, had become even mountainous. They were desolate, rugged, and barren; but to the eastward there was more vegetation, on a shelving and regular coun- try. More rapids were passed; and, at 8 p. m., we encamp- ed under the lee of a high rock, partially clad with shrubs and moss, in which the musk oxen and deer had tramped deep tracks. It was opposite to a solitary bank of sand, that formed the western entrance to a small river apparently a fiivourite resort for geese, which, hav'ng frequented it in numberless flocks during the moulting season, had left thousands of the finest quills strewed on the sand. Carts might have been laden with them. T'^'^ morning of the 27th was cloudy and cold; the ther- mometer being 40° with a south-west wind. We were on the water by 4 a. m., and were gratified to find that the river maintained the same direction, with a breadth varying from three-quarters of a mile to a mile, and with a border of granitic mountains on each side. A rapid that was passed caused it to deviate a little to the westward; and, on the right bank of a second one, more intricate than the first, we ob- sarved the marks and traces of three circular encampments, the inner portions of which were divided into sections, as if for the convenience of different occupants. Near this, the .!.' iiiii4ii OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 281 or slabs, , were at libouring truction, marks to ; purpose ipid, was altitude, ntainous. eastward liar coun- ; encamp- Lh shrubs 1 tramped of sand, pparently nted it in had left Carts rocks became steeper, if possible more barren, and distin- guished from those farther south by their precipitous ^ides and clifls feeing to the west and north-west. In the afternoon, the stream took a wide sweep; and at a bay to the westward, half screened by huge rocks, it receiv- ed another large tributary, which I named after Lieutcnant- General Sir Thomas Montresor. It was here that the trap formation first exhibited itself, rising ridge over ridge, like a range of long flat steps, with bare and rounded sides, some- times terminating precipitously. Many dipped into the water in a line with a few sandy islands, whicli spnmg, like sugar loaves, from the bosom of the stream, and the yellow surfaces of which had an appearance of forced and un- natural gaiety, amidst the gloom of that dark and desolate scenery. The swollen river nov/ rolled on in sullen and deathlike silence, long undisturbed by any thing louder than an occa- sional bubbling caused by the unevenness of the bottom. But the shores got nearer and nearer, and, for a space, it was quite uncertain in what quarter we should go. =^ 'i'ti the ther- were on that the varying )order of ras passed the right we ob- mpments, ons, as if this, the There was a rocky hill, so remarkably formed as to have attracted the attention of all of us for some time. The base, which was equal in height to the surrounding mountains, was one enormous mass of round gray rock, surmounted by a large cone of the same substance, which so exactly resem- bled in outline the crater of a volcano, and was withal so black, that it required no straining of the imagination to con-: ceive ii one. At a distance it was taken for an island; but as we advanced, we found it to be a part of the eastern shore, and were soon made aware that the contracted outlet of the river lay at its foot. On our landing, the steersman volun- 36 s*. tSik t f i 282 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES i-k-^i teered to ascend it, to get, as he termed it, "a good look at the river;" and in consequence we christened it M'Kay's Peak. From its giddy height the rapid looked as even and smooth as oil; and in that supposition, having taken the pre- caution to lighten the boat forward, we pushed off, and the next minute were in it. I think I shall never forget the moment of the first descent down what cannot be more fitly described than as a steep hill. There was not, it is true, a single break in the smoothness of the surface; but with such wild swiftness were wc borne along, that it required our ex- tremest efforts, the very tug of life, to keep the boat clear of the gigantic waves below: and we succeeded at last only to be tossed about in the Charybdis of its almost irresistible whirlpools. Having got out of this trouble, nothing loth;, we breathed more freely again in the wide '"tream, which now carried us gc *;ly forward. Craggy rocks, as before, bordered each ".! ;, the western being the more open of the two, with un- dulating prairies. At the end of six miles, a sandy bluff from theleft seemed to bar the river; but, on drawing closer, it proved, as expected, the beginning of another rapid; which, however, was more civil than the last, and allowed us to pass with a few good-humoured buffetings to make us free of its waters. u When we had fairly entered the mountainous country, and the river had taken a decided turn to the northward, I cer- tainly did not contemplate any other interruption than rapids or falls; my astonishment will therefore be understood, when, from the foot of the rapids, we emerged into the expanse of a spacious lake, bounded only by the horizon, and stretching away in a direction about N. N. W. For a while the current was felt, and guided us on; but soon the old diliiculty was I *5 o* THE ARCTIC SEA. 283 «;xpcricncc(l, and vvc had a|3;ain to gropo our way towards the river as we might. A cold head-wind with rain did not aid this operation; and as the evening was already far advanced, we encamped, — after which divine service was read in the tent. I had already been to the summit of a tolerably high hill, but could not descry any land: there was, however, much ice in a N. N. W. bearing; and the space between the western shore and us, which might be from five to six miles, was quickly filling up by the drifting masses from the main body. It was, therefore, an important consideration to push on as fast as possible, and secure the passage that was still left; but whether, in effecting this, the right or the left side should be preferred, was a question that I had some difficulty in solving. The general direction of the last two days would have inclined me to lean to the western shore; but depending on the marks, which were now seen on every height, I chose the other; and starting at 4 a. m., July 28, with a chilly north-west wind, and the thermometer at 38°, we made for an island right ahead, and bearing N. N. E. A short breaking sea and the ice together considerably im- peded our progress; but on reaching the island, we opened upon a bay, into which I pulled, with the double purpose of finding the river if it were there, or of creeping under a wea- ther shore if it were not; and after a course of about three miles to an island, which formed a strait with the mainland, we had the satisfaction to find that the current was running with us to the eastward. Leaving the lake, therefore, which, as a slight token of my sincere regard, I called after my friend Captain Sir John Franklin, whose name will always be asso- ciated with this portion of America, we followed the stream, which, as usual, soon broke into a rapid: this was safel* passed; but the next, close to it, demanded more cautioi for, from its breadth, which was not less than three-quarten wm m tE|!v 'WM'i i '^9 ' \\ ' '. i' 884 JOITRNKY TO TIIK SlIORKS i^' h: kl.: m •r ; • 1. f • • *■ t: Vi. ■■'i''. ; It • ' i ■ -l ■ of a mile, and the wnitc spray which wasrisinp; at the vanish- ing line, it was clearly not to be ventured on without a pre- liminary examination. And fortunate it was that the pre- caution was taken; for there was a rapidly inclined descent of twenty feet, divided at the upper end by two islands, and at the lower end by one, thickly spread with perpendicular slabs set up as marks, three or four feet high, and many even more. The entire space of the rapid was shoal, and encum- bered with stones, which threw up a continuous sheet of foam; but an inner channel along the western bank admitted of the boat's being lowered down quite light with ropes and ])oles as far as the lower island. Here, however, there was an awkward fall, which it was impossible to lower down, — neither was the ground practicable for a launch. The only method, therefore, which remained for extricating her from her present situation, however dangerous the attempt, was to j)lungc into the breakers outside the island. Prudence, and a proper regard for the safety of my com- panions, made me hesitate at this trying juncture; but at length, placing a just reliance on Providence, and encourag- ed by the manifestation of that ardour which rendered the men superior to danger, I ordered the movement to be made, directing those who were to execute it to keep near the outer bank of the island, and if possible to land and lower down. In a few seconds they were out of sight; and anxiously, with Mr. King, I took my station on a hill that commanded the foot of the rapid, as well as the point round which they were to come. Treble the time elapsed that was requisite to bring them within sight, and still they did not appear. I scoured the river with the telescope, yet saw nothing but water and rock. In vain we strained our sight, in vain lis- tened for a voice; nothing was heard or seen but the torrent, which raged and rolled on heedless of our anxiety. At this if- \f or Tixr. Ancrw ska. 'if^a painful crisis, whrn apprehension was l)op;inninf; to prevail over hope, the hoat rtuddenly appeared, sceminj; to cut her way through the solid land of the lower part of the island, where, as wc afterwards learned, tliere was a very narrow and shoal channel, entirely concealed from us, through which the men had cautiously lifted her. The trouble attending this proccedin.^ had caused the delay which had alarmed us; nor was it unti! noon that the arrangements were again com- pleted for resuming the journey. I may take occasion to remark here, that ever since leav- ing Rock Rapid, the compass needles liad been getting daily more sluggish; and at this place, where there were many rocks i)i si/Uf or lying in fragments on the mossy soil, though I could not find that these directly affected them, they would hardly traverse at all when at rest; and mine frequently re- mained wherever it was placed, without evincing the slight- est tendency to recover its polarity. However, the constant jerking motion of pulling did so far move them about as to enable me to get the courses with some ap])roach to exact- ness, though certainly not so as to be depended upon without the assistance of the chronom ters. A fine open reach ahead at first held oat the prospect of repaying us for lost time; but, at the end of three miles, the river became again pent in by almost meeting rocks of consi- derable altitude, the summits of which were crowned with the usual upright marks, still more numerous even than be- fore. The disappearance of the surface line of water, and successive jets of mist thrown up against the gray rocks, gave unequivocal tokens of a fall; and, while examining the rapid that led to it, we perceived that, besides the marks on the eastern hill, there were many active and bustling figures, cither pressing in a close group or running about from place li' n 28(i jntrnNEY to the shores ' I' i¥ W. I--' to placp, in manifest confusion. Those were the Esquimaux, of whom we had so lonj; anil ardently wished to j^et a sight. Some culled out to us, and others made signs, warning us, as wc thought, to avoid the fall, and cross over to their side of the water: but when our intention of doing so Was apparent, the men ran towards us, brandishing their spears, uttering loud yells, and, with wild gesticulations, motioning to us not to land. For all this I was quite prepared, knowing the alarm which they must naturally feel at beholding strangers issuing from a quarter whence hitherto the scourge of merci- less warfare only had visited their tribes. As the boat ground- ed they formed into a semicircle, about twenty-five paces distant; and with the same yelling of some unintelligible word, and the alternate elevation and depression of both ex- tended arms, apparently continued in the highest state of ex- citement: until, landing alone, and without visible weapon, I walked deliberately up to them, and, imitating their own action of throwing up my hands, called out Tima, — peace. In an Instant their spears were flun^ upon the ground; and, putting their hands on their breasts, they also called out Ti- ma, with much more doubtless greatly to the purpose, but to me of course utterly unintelligible. However, I interpreted it into friendship; and, on that supposition, I endeavoured to make them comprehend that we were not Indians, but Kab- loonds — Europeans — come to benefit not to injure them; and as they did not, like their neighbours to the north, go through the ceremony of rubbing noses by way of salutation, I adopt- ed the John Bull fashion of shaking each of them heartily by the hand. Then patting their breasts, according to their own manner, I conveyed to them, as well as I could, that the white men and the Esquimaux were very good friends. All this seemed, to give great satisfaction, which was cer- tainly not diminished by a present to each of two new shi- V 'I ' ■'■■ -y^ ^iiimaux, t a sight. \n\r us, as ir side of apparent) , uttering ing to us twing the strangers of merci- it ground- ive paces itclligiblc " both ex- ;ate of ex- : weapon, ;heir own , — peace, md; and, id out Ti- se, but to terpreted voured to )ut Kab- lem ; and 0 through , I adopt- artily by leir own that the ids. was cer- new shi- OT THE ARCTIC SEA. 287 ning buttons. These, some fish-hooks, and other trifles of a like kind, were the only articles which I had brought or this purpose, being strongly opposed to the customary dona- tion of knives, hatchets, and other sharp instruments, which may be so easily turned to use against the party presenting them. They expressed much astonishment at seeing me constantly refer to a small vocabulary with which Mr. Lewis, of the Company's service, had been kind enough to provide me; and were waggish enough to laugh at my patchwork discourse of mispronounced end misap- plied words, and scarcely more intelligible signs. Whilst we were thus engaged, some old men, half blind, came tot- tering up with their speurs, accompanied by two equally old women, carrying short and rudely fashioned iron knives, which, like the sword of the redoubted liudibras, would do to toast or strike withal; but, perceiving the uplifted hands of their f ends, the men threw their spears on the ground. Conceiving that I had now in some degree gained their confidence, though not so entirely but that each held the knife or stiletto-shaped horn grasped in his hand by way of precaution, I suppose, against treachery, I directed M*Kay and Sinclair to go and examine the fall, with a view to run it, if possible, and so avoid the making a portage, fearing lest the sight of our baggage might tempt the natives to steal, and so provoke a rupture. They understood at once what we were about; so, to draw off their attention, I went with them to their tents, which were thre«» in number, one single and two joined together, constructed in the usual manner with poles and skins. On our arrival, I was struck \. Itb the sight of a sort of circumvallation of piled stones, pre- cisely similar to those which we had passed, and arranged, as I conjectured, to serve for shields against the missiles of their enemies; as, besides the bow, arrow, and spear, these people make a most eilbctive use of the sling. Many dogs, i 1 H] I J M ' ' "i *!«'■■: 'fl ' rji 1 288 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES' of an inferior size, were basking in the sunshine, and thousands of fish lay all around split, and exposed to dry on the rocks, the rocs .ippearing to be particularly prized. These, which were white fish and small trout, had been caught in the eddy below the fall, and kept alive in pools constructed for the purpose. The women and children, about a dozen in num- ber, came out of the tents to see me; and the men pointed out their own helpmates and offspring with apparent fond- ness. Beads were soon distributed to both the women and children, and in return they gave me some trifles of their own rude manufacture. .•<;/' '(■'' u . By this time the steersman reported the impracticability of getting down the fall, owing to a dangerous rock near the centre; and was instructed, in consequence, to have tlie bag- gage carried over the portage, in such a manner that one person should always be with the depot, while Mr. King, who had general directions never to lose sight of the boat, would superintend the whole. While the crew were thus occupied, I took upon me the part of amusing the Esqui- maux, by sketching their likenesses and writing down their names. This gratified them exceedingly; but their merri- ment knew no bounds when I attempted, what was really no easy task, to pronounce what I had written. There might have been about thirty-five altogether; and, as far as I could make out, they had never seen ' 'Kabloonds" before. They had a cast of countenance superior to that of such of their nation as I had hitherto seen, indicating less of low cunning than is generally stamped on their features; though, in most other respects, sufficiently resembling them. The men were of the average stature, well knit, and athletic. They were not tat- tooed, neitiier did their vanity incommode them with the lip and nose ornaments of those farther west; l)ut, had they been disciples of the ancient fathers, who considered '-'the practice • - «}• i u OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 289 of shaving as a lie, against our own faces," they could not have nurtured a more luxuriant growth of beard, or culti- vated more flowing mustaiihios. In the former they yielded the palm only to that of Master George Killingworth, "which was not only thick, broad, and yellow-coloured, but in length five feet and two inches of assize."* The women were much tattooed al^out the face and the middle and fourth fingers. The only lady whose portrait was sketched was so flattered at being selected for the dis- tinction, that in her fear lest I should not sufiiciently see every grace of her good-tempered countenance, she intently watch- ed my eye; and, according to her "otion of the part I was pencilling, protruded it, or turned i<, so as to leave me no excuse for not delineating it in the full proportion of its beauty. Thus, seeing me look at l-er head, she immediately bent it down; stared portentously when I sketched her eyes; puffed out her cheeks when their turn arrived; and, finally, perceiving that I was touching in the mouth, opened it to the full extent of her jaws, and thrust out the whole length of her tongue. She had six tattooed lines drawn obliquely from the nostrils across each cheek; eighteen from her mouth across her chin and the lower part of the face; ten small ones, branching like a larch tree from the corner of each eye; and eight from the forehead to the centre of the nose between the eyebrows. But what was most remarkable in her appearance was the oblique position of the eyes; the inner portion of which was considerably depressed, whilst the other was proportionatel) elevated. The nostrils were a good deal expanded, and the mouth large. Her hair was jet black, and simply parted in front into two large curls, or ] athcr festoons, which were secured in their places by a fillet *1 e. 4i if' * Barrow's Chron. lUst. of Voyages, c. Hakluyt. i m-'- il ic 290 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES ?i'' * 1 s of white deer skin twined round the head, whilst the re- mainder hung loose behind the ears, or flowed not ungrace- fully over her neck and shoulders. She was the most con- spicuous, though they were all of the same family: they were singularly clean in their persons and garments; and, notwi 'i- standlng the linear embellishments of their faces, in whose mysterious figures a mathematician might perhaps have found something to solve or perplex, they possessed a sprightliness which gave them favour in the eyes of my crew, who de- clared "they were a set of bonnie-looking creatures. J) There was no other peculiarity to distinguish the tribe from those portrayed by Parry and Franklin; except in one wild looking man, who having on a pair of musk-ox skin breeches, with all the honours of the shaggy mane outside, reminded me strongly of the fabled satyrs of the olden time. But he was a character even among Esquimaux. m\ They had only five keiyaks or canoes; and the few imple- ments they possessed were merely such as were indispensa- ble for the procuring of food ; viz. knives, spears, and arrows. The blades of the first and the heads of the last were some- times horn, but oftener rougii iron, and had probably been obtained by barter from their eastern neighbours; a conjec- ture to which I am inclined to attach the more weight from the fact that the models of some of their little presents re- sembled the Indian daggers disposed of at the Company's posts throughout the country. They knew nothing of any ship having been in Regent's Inlet; but after I had sketched the river near them, one of the most intelligent took the pencil, and at my request drew the coast line from its mouth, which, he said, we would reach on the following day; and after prolonging it thence a little llr OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 291 t the re- ungrace- nost con- hey were notwi h- in whose ave found ■ightliness , who de- 2S." tribe from 1 one wild I breeches, , reminded !. But he few imple- indispensa- nd arrows, ^ere some- bably been ; a conjee- eight from resents re- ompany's n Regent's 3m, one of [juest drew ^ould reach ncc a little to the northward, made an extraordinary bend to the south- ward. On my asking if it were indeed so far south, he took me to the highest rock, from which a range of distant moun- tains was visible to the east; and first extending his arm towards the sea, nearly north, he drew his body backward in a curved attitude, projecting his hand so as to intimate the trending of the land in that direction. Continuing then to make a curve with his hand from west to east, he turned slowly round, repeating very quick, "Tarreoke, tarreoke," — the sea, the sea; and having got to a bearing about E. S. E., he suddenly stopped, accompanying the action with the ob- servation of "Tarreoke naga,"&c. ; importing that in that direction there was no sea, but plenty of musk oxen. He was also acquainted with Akkoolee, which my readers will perhaps recollect as having been named to Sir E. Parry by the Esquimaux in Hecla and Fury Strait, and intimated by a repetition of the same movement that his tribe took that course to go thither. From this action, perfectly in keeping with the outline he had drawn, it was natural to infer the jutting out of some promontory, from which the shore took a complete turn south of our position; an intimation which, far from exciting surprise, only strengthened the opinion which, in common with many others conversant with the subject, I had always entertained of a continuous coast line, probably indented with bays, between Point Turnagain and Regent's Inlet. Had it been the will of Providence that poor Augustus should have beea with me, this and numberless other uncertainties would have been definitively set at rest; but where there is no common language for the int«^rchange of ideas, all conclusions must at best be uncertain; and few men have so much mastery over themselves as not to lean almost unconsciously towards a preconceived opinion. In- dependently of the difliculty of catching the meaning of their quickly uttered sentences, of which the sounds escaped the V ■ ■■ >■■-■'*] i ■;■*; ■m w i;' 1; |S- 1 ■ I:, ■ ^w I*" f '" 292 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES memory, I was further unfortunate in the dissimilarity of my vocabulary (taken from Sir E. Parry's works) to their dialect; though this, perhaps, was not greater than might be found in the same distance any where else, as for example between London and some parts of Lancashire, the respective abori- ginals of which would be not a little puzzled to find out each other's meaning. However, as regarded the Esquimaux, there could be no mistaking the word *'tarreoke," — the expressive action, — or the delineation, which latter I have preserved. Information was now brought me that the crew were quite unequal to the task of conveying the boat over the portage, even by launching,* our last resource. So, like a prudent general, I at once changed my tactics; and, taking advantage of the good humour of our new acquaintances, requested them to give us a helping hand. The request was cheerfully com- plied with, and, with their assistance, we succeeded in carry- ing the boat below the fall; so that, in reality, I was indebted to them for getting to the sea at all. Altogether, indeed, whether owing to their natural inoffensiveness or to the few- ness of their numbers, they were good-natured and friendly. They seemed, moreover, to have some notion of the rights of property; for one of them having picked up a small piece of pemmican, repeatedly asked my permission before he would eat it. It was late when we got away, and then the breadth and deep bays of the river so puzzled us that we went astray. Having at last, with much trouble, regained the current, we were carried to some mountains on the western shore, whore we encamped, and appointed a watch for the night. IT n OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 293 By 4 A. M., July 29th, wc were afloat; but the weather was cloudy and cold, with a northerly breeze, and the ther- mometer at 41^°. At sun-rise a fog began to spread, and soon became so dense that we found ourselves in the midst of several rapids before we were in the least aware of their presence; and subsequently the breeze freshened, and the fog increased so much, that, unable to see distinctly, we were obliged to lie by until it should clear. In the meantime the sun occasionally broke through the clouds, and enabled me to obtain observations, the results of which were, latitude G7° 7' 31" N., longitude 94° 39' 45" W. and the variation by the sun's bearing with Kater's compass, the one commonly used, 8° 30' W.* I' 'U The afternoon permitted us to proceed; and it was while threading our way between some sand-banks, with a strong current, that we first caught sight of a majestic headland in the extreme distance to the north, which had a coast-like ap- pearance. This important promontory was subsequently honoured by receiving the name of Her Royal Highness the Princess Victoria. The sand-banks also now became broken into cliffs, which, dwindling away on the eastern side to a vanishing point, subsided on the western into low flats, the level of which was just broken by half a dozen sandy knolls sparingly tipped with a few blades of dry grass. The banks on this side were cut by several channels leading to the left, but shallow, and not navigable. The country on both sides was swampy, and gradually sloped upwards to the distant mountains. m m This then may be considered as the mouth of the Thlew- ee-choh, which, after a violent and tortuous course of five *Sce Appendix. ;■>'! 294 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES IC; : 'I ( Vi ifT-'C i- ' ' hundred and thirty geographical miles, running through an iron-ribbed country without a single tree on the whole line of its banks, expanding into fine large lakes with clear horizons, most embarrassing to the navigator, and broken into falls, cascades, and rapids, to the number of no less than eighty- three in the whole, pours its waters into the Polar Sea in latitude 67° 11' 00" N., and longitude 94° 30' 0" W. ; that is to say, about thirty-seven miles more south than the mouth of the Coppermine River, and nineteen miles more south than that of Back's River at the lower extremity of Bathurst's Inlet. w The rush of the current, opposed by a fresh breeze, and possibly by the tide, raised such high and breaking waves as we put out with an intention of gaining the headland, that the laden boat was unable to resist them, and shipped a great deal of water. It became therefore not only prudent but ne- cessary to pull into a bay, which in the map is distinguished as Cockburn's Bay, being so named in compliment to the first Chairman of the Arctic Committee, Vice-Admiral Sir George Cockburn, to whose valuable exertions in organizing the expedition I have already borne testimony. From the summit of an adjacent rock we could discern large quantities of ice to the westward, apparently close to the shore, which in that direction extended from twelve to fifteen miles; but the view being interrupted by the jutting out of the headland, its farther direction could not be ascertained. It must have been high water when we landed, which was at 7 p. m. of the day after the last quarter of the moon; for at about an hour past midnight, the boat which had been left afloat in a snugly sheltered place, was found high and dry on the beach. A fresh breeze with squalls having continued through the night, it was not practicable to move until 10 a. m. ; and this detention gave me an opportunity of getting sights which f OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 295 placed us in latitude 67° 20' 31" i\., and longitude 94° 28' 14" W. : on this occasion the compass was placed upon the sandy beach, about a quarter of a mile from the nearest rocks, and agreed with two others held in the hand. The appearance of so much ice co the westward determined me to keep along the high shore where we were; and having rounded Victoria Headland, we passed a picturesque water- fall tumbling from the rocks above, and came to a high craggy point, which I named after my friend John Backhouse, Es- quire, the able and excellent Under-Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. Near this was a tolerably large island, and some others were seen more to the westward. 'M The weather was fine and calm, the tide ebbing; and some seals that quietly gazed at our invasion of their domain af- forded amusement to the men, as they sunk and rose again without causing even a ripple that could be di&cerned. The shores were now becoming farther apart; and as I wished, if possible, to coast on the other side, in order that advantage might be taken of any favourable openings for the passage to Point Turnagain, which, under ordinary circumstances, we had plenty of time to reach, I landed at a mountain, and traced a line of ice from a bay on the western shore to a point directly opposite, which has been called after Rear-Admiral Gage. The haze of the atmosphere, however, prevented the distance from being clearly defined; but it was at all events cheering to behold clear water as far as the eye could pene- trate; and though it was of course not desirable to get ham- pered with the western ice, yet I determined to keep it in sight until we should be able to eflect a crossing to the main shore beyond it. Some small islands were seen to our left, after which we opened a spacious bay five or six miles deep, 1' 29(i JOURNEY TO THE SHOHES '1 < i f^'? Ill' rlii ,.'ii f ^' sS'"ta 1'*^* • '1 ■hd. and very broad (willed after Captains Irby and Mangles, the Eastern travellers,) which it took us between three and four hours to traverse. At this time there was every reason to anticipate a prosperous issue of our voyage westward within ten days, even though less distances should be made jLhan during the last ten hours; but as we neared a projecting bar- ren rock, about eight hundred feet high, forming the north- ern point of the bay (and which has been designated Point Beaufort, after the present distinguished by drographer of the navy,) drift ice came round so suspiciously quick, that wc found it prudent to land for the purpose of securing the boat from damage by hauling her on the shelving part, where alone it was possible. Eagerly did I clamber up the slip- pery sides, in the hope of beholding from the height a free and open sea; but the first glance as I topped the crest was sufficient to chill that hope, and a careful inspection with the telescope produced the unweloome conviction that our future progress must be worked out by slow and laborious efforts. From the horizon to within two miles of where I stood glared one solid body of drift ice, connecting both shores. The shore to the westward was, for a like reason, unap- proachable; and though a strong southerly gale might dis- perse the entire mass,, yet there was no predicting when that would happen, whilst it was certain that a very few days of delay would inevitably be fatal to our object. It wa3,'indeed, a mortifying consideration, that after surmounting so many toils and perils on that long and difficult river, we might be thus checked at the very place where, from past experience of the sea to the westward, I least suspected such a disaster; and I could scarcely help entertaining some apprehension, that wc might be at the southern extremity of a deep inlet, from which a change of ^^ i; d alone could release us. m-' OV THK AUCTIC SEA. 297 iglcs, the I and four reason to •d within ladc jLhan sting bar- he north- ted Point iher of the ;, that we ; the boat rt, where 3 the slip- ght a free crest was 1 with the our future us efforts. 3od glared ;on, unap- night dis- when that w days of is/indeed, so many- might be xpcrience disaster; chension, ccp inlet, Doubly, therefore, was I grateful that the primary object of the service had been providentially anticipated. Had it been otherwise, the delay thus occasioned would have been still more mortifying. July 31st. — A fresh breeze from the southward sprung up about midnight; yet a thin crust of ice was formed on the pools of water about the rocks. At daylight, the lain body of the ice was found to be closely packed against the western shore, which extended fifteen or twenty miles abreast of us, and thence bent into a deep bay, trending afterwards to the northward mtil it bore N. by W. and blended with the icy horizon. The wind had so far acted as to drive the whole mass near a quarter of a mile away from the eastern shore, leaving thereby a clear passage for a length of fourteen miles in a N. E. direction. Beyond this we could not define any land, except a blue bluff, whose base was white with refract- ed ice, and which bore still farther to the right. It was evi- dent, therefore, that we were at the narrowest part of the opening, where it would be most convenient to cross; if, in- deed, this were not the only place in which we could safely do so, in an undecked boat, already damaged from the shocks she had received in the falls and rapids; and, however anx- ious, as it may well be supposed I was, to achieve as much as possible, I could not but be sensible that to have pursued the lane to the eastward, and, according to the Esquimaux's outline, rounded the bluff to the southward, would only have been to depart more widely from our course, and to retro- grade instead of advancing. Nor was this all: to have taken that course, amidst the obstacles which surrounded us, m-'^ht perhaps have involved us in perilous if not in inextricable difficulties; for the westerly gales, which on these shores not unfrequently commence early in the season, might pack the drift ice to the eastward, so as to render our return in the 38 1^1 t/i »tl 298 JOnnNEY TO TFIE SHORES it ■ flV ^.r /' boat utterly impossible. We hail therefore nothing for it but to yield to necessity, and wait submissively until nature should remove the barrier which she had placed. About 3 p. M. it was low water, that is, an ebb of about eight inches was observable on the shingle, and the taste of the water at that time was brackish and bad. We had reason to know this from the carelessness of my servant, who hav- ing been accustomed to fill his kettles for cooking at the river and lakes, thoughtlessly did the same thing here, and consequently spoiled the tea. To beguile the tediousness of the detention, I made a regular set of observations, " hich were very interesting, more especially as regarded Hansteen's needle. It was exceedingly difficult to adjust, but remained perfectly in after the set was finished. Its vibrations were even and regular,*Tjut very slow; the interval between each having increased to three mimitcs and Jive seconds. On the contrary, Dollond's dipping needle, No. 2., moved more freely than I remembered to have seen it. The lati- tude was 67° 41' 24" N., longitude 95° 2' 16" W., variation 6° 0' W. ; thermometer 72° in the tent. August 1st. — The only perceptible difference in the ice this morning was, that it had closed a little to the east: no opening was seen by which a passage could be made to the other side, until about 10 a. m., when I fancied that with the telescope I could make out a small lane bearing N. W. The boat was immediately launched; and with sails and oars together we effected our purpose in three hours and a half, having passed on our way an island, to which has been given the name of my companion Mr. King. We landed in a small bay, as we supposed on the main, not far from some old Esquimaux encampments, indicated by four wells or shafts for the preservation of their meat. A party was im- VI f* I iA OP THE ARCTir SEA. 299 ng for it il nature of about ic taste of ad reason who hav- ng at the here, and ousness of ns, " hich lansteen's remained tions were ween each mds. On 5., moved The lati- variation in the ice le east: no lade to the that with ngN. W. s and oars and a half, )een given nded in a rom some wells or ,y was im- i mediately despatclicd to examine the state of the ice in a bay to the westward, while I walked along the rocks to another point witli the same view; but the result of our examinations only confirmed our worst fears, the ice being closely packed as far as the eye could reach. However, this also was drift ice, so that all hope was net shut out, as a westerly wind might and probably would clear a channel inshore; but as there was no immediate prospect of this, the breeze being from the N. E., we unloaded, and hauled the boat upon the beach to save her from being crushed by the pressure of the ice. The distance travelled this day was about twelve miles from shore to shore, and this may be considered as the nar- rowest part of the mouth of the estuary. The coast here was much lower and shelving than the precipitous and bold one we had left; but we observed the same naked and round- backed rocks as at Point Beaufort; differing, however, in colour, the latter being composed almost entirely of a light flesh-tinted felspar and splintery quartz, whilst these consist- ed wholly of a dark gray felspar with minute granular quartz, and perhaps hornblende. Among the debris on the beach, it was not a little surprising to find fragments of limestone, though no rocks of that formation had yet been passed. The following day brought no change for the better; for the north-east wind had packed the ice still closer to the shore. As it was therefore impossible to move, I took the opportunity of making some further observations on the dip and magnetic intensity, which latter showed a less interval; an anomaly ascribable perhaps to the difference of situation, as in this instance the stand was placed on a sandy beach, removed sixty or seventy yards from the nearest rocks, v'hereas on the former it stood on the very base of the rock where we were encamped. It is necessary to remark, how- ever, that the smallest piece of iron deranged the needles. 1 h i: ■ u I? if ...P ll.-M • v. " .^'- /: i. t' 300 JOURNEY TO THE SIIOHKS especially Ilanstcon's; and I have reason to lielicvc that even my brace-buckles caused a material difference. Towards night some men, who had been despatched to the westward, reported that we were not on the main shore, but on a large island adjoining to it; a discovery which they had accident- ally made by following two deer until they swam across the narrow channel of separation. Upon this I called the place Montreal Island, in commemoration of the attention we had received from the public-spirited and hospitable inhabitants of that city; and as well from the existence of an inner pass- age, as from my own observation of the ice, I began again to entertain a hope that a south-west gale would clear a way for us, though in the direction towards which we were bound there was at present one compact mass before us to the hori- zon. A tide-pole which we set up showed a rise of twelve inches; the highest being at llh. 40m. a. m., and the lowest at 7h. 20m. p. M. There may, however, in this be an error of a few minutes, and it is not improbable that the irregu- larity may have been augmented u.y the vast floating bodies of ice and other accidental causes. August 3d. — Parties were sent out in different directions to see if there was any possibility of creeping alongshore among the grounded pieces, but they were all so close that the attempt would have been useless. Indeed, under the most favourable circumstances we could only have reached a stony point half a mile distant, against which the ice was thrown up in heaps. The main body was still unbroken, and apparently unaltered, except to the eastward, where an E. S. E. wind had opened a partial lane, of which the termi- nation, however, could be easily traced. Our evening was spent in the performance of divine service. The night set in with a gale from S. S. E., accompanied by OP TIIK AnCTIC SEA. 301 hat ovcu Towards estvvard, n a large accitlent- icross the the place n vvc had ihabitants mer pass- n again to a way for Dre bound the hori- of twelve Lhc lowest c an error he irregu- ing bodies directions dongshore close that under the reached a e ice was unbroken, where an the termi- ^ening was n panied by heavy rain, two powerful auxiiiarirs in our cause; and most agreeable was it to find in tiie morning that they had done good service, having crushed and heaped a great deal of ice on the beach. With tiie continuance of the gale the sea rose, and obliged us to move the boat and baggage farther inland; but this was done cheerfully, for there was comfort in watch- ing the havoc made by the rolling surf. Already it had re- duced a barrier of three .lundred feet, which eficctually blocked up the communication, to a breadth of not more than twenty feet; and this also was destroyed a little after high water a* Ih. p. m.* My anxiety forbade me rest, and I went to the most northerly part of the island, about three miles off, where, taking a station on a rock about two hun- dred and fifty feet high, near some marks of the Esquimaux, I perceived a considerable alteration in the position of the ice within the last twenty-four hours. It still adhered to both shores, from N. W. by W. to N. E. f K., the former ridges unfortunately being nearly abreast of our encampment. These were the extremes; but the main and central portion had opened in the shape of the letter V, to the width of from ten to twelve miles to the northward and westward; thus encouraging the expectation that it would yet be forced out as soon as the effect was felt to seaward. To divert the attention of the meji) who, having nothing to do, remembered that they would have to ascend the nu- merous falls and rapids they had come down, and began to magnify the difficulty, and even to talk of the impracticabili- ty of the task, I sent them all after a musk-ox, which I had by chance discovered feeding under the lee of some high rocks, and which was eventually killed. It was a young cow; and, being devoid of the disagreeable flavour of the older * New moon. %lp' 302 JOUKNEY TO THE SHORES 11 :i\ i 1^ . < t' 1 s ^ - ■ "it ^'■'' « f '' tf ,. > i ' » |ii; r?^-; h'/: P' animals, aflfordcd us t\yo luxurious meals. Mr. King shot a rcd-breastcd phalarope, only two of which kind had before been found in a swamp near the Rock Rapid. The island, indeed, was literally covered with plover, black- breasted and brown phalaropes, and a sort of large brown duck with plumage not unlike that of the hen pheasant. These last were divers, and were at that time busied in tend- ing their young broods, which they defended with great courage against the attacks of a half-terrier dog that swam after them for some time, but was at last fairly beaten off. The birds here mentioned, with black and white snow-birds, boatswains, gulls, tern, brown cranes, and loons or northern divers, were the only birds which we saw. The temperature of a duck just killefl was 108°, and that of the ground, which was gravelly and frozen at twenty-two inches below the sur- face, 37\ August 5th. — The weather was gloomy, with continued rain; and the gale kept up a heavy surf, which threw seve- ral pieces of sea-weed on the beach. I returned to my station on the hill, and was something cheered by seeing a larger space of open water than before, though the same white line of ice extended across the horizon from shore to shore at a part where the distance was estimated at five-and-twenty or thirty miles. But the beneficial effect of the wind was more clearly shown in the channel between Montreal Island and the main, which was now perfectly free; and I waited only for the first moderating of the weather to take advantage of it, as every mile, under circumstances like ours, was an ac- quisition of no trifling importance. The moss and a sort of fern that we used for firing had become so saturated with the rain that they would not ignite, and we had consequently to forego our greatest comfort, the luxury cf a warm cup of tea. Pemmican and water, however, served our turn tolerably OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 303 Ling shot a had before pid. The rev, black- rge brown I pheasant, ied in tend- with great that swam beaten off. snow-birds, or northern emperature lund, which ow the sur- i continued threw seve- ) my station ng a larger white line shore at a d-twenty or d was more [ Island and waited only dvantage of , was an ac- nd a sort of ;ed with the iequently to 1 cup of tea. n tolerably well, though the least indisposed to that useful compound had long been satiated, and were now content with half the usual allowaice. At 10 p. m. there was less wind, and the swell had rather abated; and although from the aspect of the clouds thera was reason to expect a renewal of the gale rather than a calm, it was an occasion not to be lost, and the boat was launched. We pulled round the south-west part of the island, the northern being encumbered with rocks and shoals, which in the event of a sudden squall would have proved troublesome, and even dangerous. The tide was flowing, a id therefore against us; and a dense wet fog coming on soon afterwards from the southward, enveloped us at once in cold ard darkness. Having passed an extensive opening, which was taken for a bay, and receiv d the name of the Ho- nourable Captain Elliot of the Admiralty, sail was made on the boat; and by midnight we were opposite our old encamp- ment. .\t that time not a particle of ice was visible ahead, and the men, encouraged by so unexpected a sight, put out their utmost strength at the oars to gain a blue streak of ^and far awa)' to the north; but one and all must have been under some optical illusion, for in a quarter of an hour (such is the uncertainty of all human calculations) we were entangled in drift icc', which but too evidently was the advanced guard of the main body. Several attempts were made to land, but were njndered abortive by the shoalness of the water; and it was not until 2h. 30m. A. M. that, after working with much trouble and no little risk to the boat between the thick driftif ing ice, we at length succeeded. The boat was then unload- ed, and hauled up above high-water mark. Th(j weather was at this time calm, but gloomy and un- settle I; and heavy rain soon followed. Having refreshed the nen with a glass of ^rog, I appointed M'Kay, Sinclair, and 7'aylor, who were the best walkers, to proceed on foot &M 'il: .t'» J ■ Ml *' ' . ' j: ■ 504 JOURNKY TO THE SHOKES along the coast as far as they could, leaving it to their discre- tion whether to absent themselves for a longer time than twenty-four hours, according to the probability that might exist of our getting forward. Besides noticing the state of the ice, they were desired to examine carefully the nature and trending of the western land, on their report of which depended the execution of a plan which had been for some time in contemplation, as a last resource in the event of our progress being shortly arrested. 1 -^ t t^ ' IS*'* ■*" f' If" t' if''* If ii.» t.'j '. i^ > J- ' Wu" r3i; as. \h As the day advanced, the rain fell in torrents, and of course prevented the fern from burning; but a more grievous spectacle was the dull white ice drifting again to the south- ward in melancholy succession towards the channel through which we had passed; and, by the occasional gleams of light which broke through the rain-charged atmosphere, we had the mortification to behold the narrow line of water on which our hopes depended gradually transformed into a compact and solid field of ice. The eastern shore was but once dis- tinguishable; and scarcely more so a point much nearer to us, which has been called after the Honourable Captain Duncan, with whom my former friend and companion, the lamented Mr. Hood, had served in his Majesty's ship LifTey. Late at night the exploring party returned, fagged and depressed. They described the land as being low, and so swampy that at each step they sank to the calf of the leg, and were only ^)revented from going deeper by the frozen earth and ice, which at that depth sustained them. The day had been un- favourable for a distant view; but from a low point fifteen miles off, the coast was observed to trend westerly towards some high blue lands like mountains, where there was an appearance of open water; but whether of the sea, or of an inland lake, the atmosphere was too hazy to enable them to determine. At the point tiicy had counted from thirty to F^i M . - OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 305 forty old Esquimaux encampments, -and many others were seen a little farther off; from whence it may be inferred that the natives resort to this place in the winter for the purpose of catching seals. One glimpse only had been caught of the eastern coast, and that showed it set fast with ice, which was said to be jammed also against the western beach the whole way of their march. Three deer had been shot, but could not be cooked for want of dry fuel. m^^ August 7th. — After a heavy fjill of rain, the sun broke out, and a fresh S. S, E. wind drove the dark masses of cloud' back to their dreary quarters in the north. In a little while, also, it eflfected a separation of the pieces, and a consequent general movement in the ice, which now opening a little, gave me reason to hope that we might be able to break ground, and get away at high water. But in consequence of the pressure from without, the ice near the beach had been forced half out of the water; and it cost us incredible trouble to move some of the many cumbrous pieces thus par- tially afloat even a few inches, so as to make a passage for the boat. This task was not , chieved before 2 p. ar., when the wind being fair, the sails were immediately hoisted, and on she went at the rate of about five knots an hour. A con- spicuous promontory to the eastward, blue from distance, which had been before seen from Point Beaufort, was now named after Captain Bowles, R. N. ; and such was the change that had been wrought, in the short interval of a few hours, that the whole intermediate space was free from impediment, had it suited our purpose to traverse it. Indeed, the celerity with which the ice had disappeared from the part where we were now sailing was so astonishing, that the men, who were novices to polar phenomena, looked doubt- ingly, and repeatedly asked each other if this or that particu- 39 ,*(; 306 JOUUNEY TO THE SHORES aA .^'• lar place were not the same which but a short time before they had seen blocked up and impassable. ^■iK' u^ U' From a small rocky island which was passed on the left, we made for a low sandy point, named after Sir J. B. Pechell, Bart., and remarked that, scanty as was the vegeta- tion in the parts which we had quitted, it was here sensibly growing less and less, consisting now only of scattered tufts, gradually subsiding into sterility. So flat was the western shore that a solitary hillock five or eight feet high was a conspicuous land-mark; while the eastern coast, on the con- trary, was bold and mountainous, as if defying the rage of hail-storms from the pole. The chain, however, was not of great extent; for at the end of sixteen miles it terminated in a bluff, laid down as Hutton Browne Bluff, and a huge pro- jecting cape, distinguished by the name of Cape Hay, after the late Under-Secretary for the Colonies, a zealous pro- moter of the expedition, and of geographical researches gene- rally. This was the northern extreme of the eastern coast, which in so far coincided exactly with the outline given by the Esquimaux; but here we lost all trace of land in that di- rection, though from our subsequent position it must have been discovered, had it not from thence rounded suddenly off, as I believe it does, to the southward and eastward. Near 8 p. m., after a delightful sail, we overtook our enemy the drift ice: and getting hampered amongst it, in the attempt to find a passage round a low island a mile or two ahead, the northern extremity of which shut out the view of any other land in that direction, we were compelled to make for the shore, which, after considerable trouble and some risk of being ''nipped," we succeeded in reaching. On landing, I directed my steps to a hillock of sand ten feet high, about two and a half miles from the beach, and in '1 i OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 307 ne before 1 the left, Sir J. B. be vegeta- e sensibly ered tufts, ie western ligh was a n the con- he rage of was not of minated in I huge pro- Hay, after ^alous pro- rches gene- stern coast, e given by in that di- must have i suddenly eastward, our enemy it, in the nile or two the view of ed to make ; and some ching. On nd ten feet ich, and in going was forcibly struck with the desert-like character of the place. It was one irregular plain of sand and stones; and had it not been for a rill of water, .he meandering of which relieved the monotony of the sterile scene, one might have fancied one's self in one of the parched plains of the East, rather than on the shores of the Arctic Sea. From this hillock, I discerned a deep bay, bearing south-west, of which the sandy point of our encampment (called after Vice- Admiral Sir Charles Ogle) formed the eastern extremity; while the opposite side terminated in another point bearing W. N. W. The land which encircled the bay was blue and high, and apparently much encumbered with ice, which stretched from side to side, and again northerly as far as the horizon. Still, however, there was a ray of hope, for nar- row streaks of open water chequered the surface, like even- ing shadows on a bright lake. Rain fell incessantly in the night, and the morning disclosed a dense wet fog, together with the unwelcome sight of close- ly packed ice against the shore. A little after noon there was a storm, with thunder and lightning; the first I remem- ber to have seen so far north. The steersmen were twice sent to examine the state of the ice as far as Point Og'e (which was now found to he an island or part of the main, according as it was high or low water, being connected at the ebb by a narrow ridge of sand and stones); for the wind, hav- ing towards evening veered to the northward, threatened to carry the outside drift ice into both openings, and thereby effectually prevent our moving an inch. To obviate this, it was my intention to have poled through the inshore ice as far as the narrowest part of the small isthmus that joined the island to the main, and then to have made a portage of boat and m 1 I 11 m »■ •<,' §, .„,,., ■r 30S JOXmNEY TO THE SHORKS mi' ^i ; (I ffif'/ ','''-• WMS i: i' • myj t •■ ^Si. .' m" V' > " jm "' ,-'*■; - ^B '^ 'a. w ' ^ ' w' 1..,' M' ^. . la* '. . t'f J*'i' '"' P , -(tJ'- J " *'■• ! • • fe^'' Jm^ »-'f»> fe*^ * M ' raly .^i' cargo to the west side, where, at present, there was a lane of open water, connected with that leading to the distant west- ern land; but the immense size of the pieces, and the firm- ness with which they were wedged together, rendered the scheme totally impracticable. Though the thermometer was at 42°, yet, being wet, we were chilly and uncomfortable, and our cheerless condition was greatly aggravated by the want of fire. A watch was set in the night, to enable us to take advantage of any movement of the ice which might aid our progress. The steersmen relieved each other also, in going to and from the island for the same purpose; but all was in vain: it still remained packed, some even floating southward into the harbour; and, to add to our wretched- ness, the rain scarcely ceased for a moment, and the weather continued raw and cold. This, together with the want of warm food, excited my apprehensions for the health of the crew, and the rather, as one (M*Kenzic) had been for some days swollen and bloated so as to be incapacitated from per- forming his regular duty, and, what was at this time of most consequence, from going into the water at all; happily, how- ever, no other had as yet complained. I again crossed over to the hillock through a kind of quick- sand, and saw the land as before, except that a high point was now visible to the south-west, which seemed to mark it as an island. To the north and west, nothing but ice pre- sented itself to the view; but due east, I could distinguish open water and a small island. Southward, the drift ice ap- peared in every quarter; and the wind, which had got a few points to the westward, had already driven it close into the shore. To employ the people, they were sent in search of fern or moss for fuel; but though they went different ways OP TIIK AnCTIC SEA. 309 as a lane of istant west- id the firm- ndered the ometer was omfortable, ited by the jnable us to h might aid her also, in lose; but all ircn floating ir wretched- the weather the want of lealth of the en for some jd from per- ime of most ippily, how- nd of quick- high point d to mark it but ice pre- distinguish drift ice ap- ad got a few ose into the in search of fferent ways J to the distance of ten miles, their labour was fruitless, for they returned at night without a single particle. At 2 p. M. it began to rain violently, and continued to do so without the slightest cessation until noon the following day (August 10th), when it was succeeded by a fog. Mean- time a great part of the ice had disappeared, and the boat was soon laden and pulled to the island; but there being no chan- nel, by which we could proceed westerly, owing to the heavy masses wedged against the shore, we made a portage, and launched the boat across. The sand-banks were found to run out several hundred yards, and the ice to seaward, being packed apparently by a westerly current, had forced the lighter pieces on shore, which, together with the shoals, em- barrassed us beyond measure: however, by pushing some few masses aside, and making a zigzag course, we managed to advance a mile; when, being again stopped, another effort was made, by causing the pco} to wade and lift the boat over the shoals, which was successful enough, until, the wa- ter being little more than ancle-deep, necessity compelled us to encamp. Other narrow lanes were sounded for a channel, but with no serviceable result; and the temperature of the water being only 37°, with a north-west breeze blowing, and ice to the very beach, it cannot be .". matter of astonishment, and much less of blame, that even the best men, benumbed in their limbs, and dispirited by the dreary and unpromising prospect before them, broke out for a moment into low mur- murings that theirs was a hard and painful duty. The boat was scarcely hauled up, when the fog grew so thick that no- thing could be seen beyond a hundied yards: three of the people, however, went to look for fuel, and the remainder assembled in the tent to hear divine service. .1 iff 'it '!>■ ' * f' ^ :i/: I , I i ' { h^ W. *p' 310 JOTinNEY TO THE SHORES The place where we encamped, and, indeed, every foot of this sandy soil was covered with small shells resembling cockles and bivalves. Innumerable rills of fresh water ran in opposite directions from the central rrlge. About 8 p. m. the rain IJegan to fall again, though without at all clearing the fog, and the wind from north-west increased to a strong breeze. A shout of *'Whathavc you got there?" announced the return of the men: the jocular answer of "A piece of the North Pole" immediately brought Mr. King and myself from out the tent; and we found that they had really picked up a piece of drifl-wood nine feet long and nim inches in diameter, together with a few sticks of smaller drift-wood and a part of a kieyack. When the large trunk was sawed, I was rather surprised to see it very little sodden with water; a proof that it could not have been exposed for any consider- able time to its action; From the peculiar character of the wood, which was pine, of that kind which is remarkable for its freedom from knots, I had no doubt that it had originally grown somewhere in the upper part of the country, about the M'Kenzie; and of this I was the more competent to judge from my recollection of the drift-wood west of that large river, which it exactly resembled. Though we had strong reasons to be grateful for this unlooked-for treasure, as afford- ing us the means of enjoying a hot meal — the first for seve- ral days, — yet there were other considerations which gave it in my eyes a far greater importance. In it I saw what I thought an incontrovertible proof of the set of a cun :nt from the westward along the coast to our left, and that consequent- ly we had arrived at the main line of the land; for it is a fact well known to the officers of both Sir John Franklin's expe- ditions, that the absence of drift-wood was always regarded as an infallible sign that we had gone astray from the main, either among islands or in some such opening as Bathurst's ■ ■•»!'■ ■ii , . ■-r OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 311 ry foot of jscmbling water ran lUt 8 p. M. 1 clearing I a strong nnounced ece of the ^self from eked up a inches in Irift-wood as sawed, ith water; considcr- tcr of the rkable for originally about the to judge that large lad strong as afford- for seve- ch gave it iw what I :nt from nsequent- t is a fact m's expe- garded as le main, Jathurst's Inlcl, where, by reason of the set of tlie current, not a piece of any size was found. August 11th. — A fresh breeze from the south-west had en- couraged us to hope that the ice would be blown off-shore at high water; and bitter, therefore, was our disappointment at finding that, if it moved at all, it was only to become more wedged, and piled up piece upon piece. The weather, how- ever, cleared a little, and, for a few minutes, the sun broke forth for the first time during five days. We could now make out two islands to the north, the left extremity of which was named uftcr my intrepid friend Captain .Tames Ross; and be- tween it and a bluff bearing N. N. W., no land, nor any thing but ice, could be seen. To the westward along the shore where we were encamped, all was shoal, and paved with ice. Two islands, however, jutted out towards the southern bluff of the land, which there formed a point, and was apparently one of the arms embracing a bay. Progress, by any con- trivance, was altogether impossible; and this, I must own, began to shake the opinion I had all along cherished, that a strong south-west gale would clear away the ice, and give us a , hance of making at least a few degrees of longitude. Some more drift-wood was found by Mr. King, who likewise saw a musk-ox, and the greater part of the vertebras and ribs of a whale lying on the beach. A single joint of one of the ver- tebra; was also picked up at our encampment. It was high water at 3h. 15m. p. m. ; D first quarter, change. The following morning the ice was so wedged, that for miles it was thrown up into perpendicular pieces, like a vast area of upright slabs, or a magnificent Stonehenge. At the same time, the pressure from seaward forced acres of it on shore, along the whole line of coast, so as to preclude all -ZT^V m p„. 7-' / 1 i' ^^f; V i Ik. 312 JOirnNKV TO THE SHORES possibility of our stirring in any direction; and this being so, I despatched a party, furnished with a telescope and com- pass, to get the bearings to the westward, and occupied myself during their absence in obtaining observations for the dip and intensity. In placing the instruments into the me- ridian, I was struck with the disagreement of the different needles in denoting the magnetic north. The one then used (Dollond's) was a light bar needle, and indicated sever<»l degrees to the eastward of those which had cards or any other weight attached to them. At first I felt inclined to doubt its accuracy; but, considering its lightness and the few times that it had been used as compared with the others, as well as the fineness of the point of the pivot, and observing, moreover, its constancy in returning to zero under various trials, I at last concluded that it must be right, and adjusted the instrument accordingly. With the face of the needle to the face of the instrument, it swung more freely east and west than when turned north and south; for in the latter position it was sometimes sluggish, and jerked as if acted on by two powers, whereas in the former the motion was smooth and easy. W nen it was reversed the discrepancy was still more apparent, and in one instance it did not make nearly the same number of vibrations. For this strange deviation I can assign no accidental cause: on this occasion, in particu- lar, thery was not a particle of iron or any metallic substance within three hundred yards of the tent; for, having remarked on other trials the danger of having so much as a pocket knife near while the observations were in progress, I now, to be still more certain, even removed my chronometers, and took off my brace-buckles. Having got the vertical intensity, and then the din, which agreed belter than might have been ex- pected, I tried Hansteen's No. 3. needle for the horizontal force; but I cannot easily describe the tediousness of arrang- u ffl«?f 3|' OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 313 s being 80) and corn- occupied )ns for the Lo the me- e different ! then used cd several •ds or any- inclined to nd the few ; others, as observing, der various nd adjusted e needle to y east and 1 the latter I if acted on lotion was epancy was lake nearly deviation in particu- substance remarked ocket knife now, to be and took nsity, and e been ex- horizontal of arrang- ing it in its mcridicn, which difl'crccl much indeed from the other. When it had at last settled, I drew it on one side 20°; but the intervals of ten viliralions were irregular, varying from 3' 50" to 3' 45"; and though it stopped at its zero in five minutes afterwards, I found the marked end had moved easterly 0°, and so approached nearer to Dollond's. Having waited some time longer, during which it kept stationary, I made a fresh set from that zero; but the result was not more satisfactory than the preceding; and, finally, instead of set- tling at its last, it returned to its first zero. Had it not been for the variation in this point, i. e. the arc between the two zeros, I should have attributed, and probably with truth, the apparent difference in the interval of vibrations to the want of a fixed index or reading glass for enabling me to deter- mine the precise moment of the turn of the needle: for so torpid was it, that it seemed actually to stop dead at the ex- tremity of each arc, so as to render it a matter of great nicety for the observer, even when assisted by a good lens, to say when that instant was. In order to decide between the two, a set was next made with the lozenge needle, which showed an entire difference from Hansteen's of 22° in marking the north; coinciding, however, in this respect exactly with Dollond's. The delicate pocket compass, graciously pre- sented to me by Her Royal Highness the Princess Victoria, was in this difficulty extremely useful. The intervals of the lozenge needle were, as usual, considerably shorter than those of No. 3, namely, 1' 28"; and, what was of greater consequence in the present interesting case, they were quite regular in two several trials, and in both the needle returned to its zero without the slightest deviation. One remark 1 feci it my duty, as an observer, to make, though it may pos- fjiibly be unfounded. On two occasions, that is, at Hock Rapid and here, No. 3 seemed to be affected, — in the one case by the accidental scraping out of a kettle while it was 40 I ¥' A lpf''' m r|":l^ ii- 314 JOUnNKY TO TlIK SiroHKM swiiijiinu;, at a distance of one luimlrcd and fifty yards; an({ in the second case by the simple scraping out of a keg. W'liether the vibration produc f At 5h. 30 '.. p. M., when the tide was at full, the ice was wedged as Ijefore to the shore, and not ten yards of open water could be seen in any direction; thermometer 42°. About 9 p. M. there was a short lull, the ominous stillness of which was soon disturbed by an E. S. E. wind, that shortly increased to a smart gale; and it is worthy of remark, that the ice, which had remained unmoved by the wind from S., S. W., W., and N. E., now, as if acted on by magic, began to drift W. N, W. with great rapidity. I was con- vinced, therefore, that there must be in that particular bear- ing, either a main sea or a very deep opening, to allow the escape of so j-reat a portion of the immense extent of ice be- fore us; for had the dispersion continued at its then rate, a very few hours would have sufficed to clear the channel en- tirely. Late though it was in the season, this sudden revo- lution animated our drooping spirits, and three or four anxiour hours were passed in anticipating the possibility of yet float- ing freely on the western- main. But again the inconstancy of the breeze betrayed us, and, as the rising tide moved the grounded masses off the sands, a thick fog came on, which obscured earth and sky; and the wind shifted round to N. W., which was dead on shore. The night was cold, for the ther- mometer sunk below the ireezing point, and ice of half an inch thickness was formed on the pools near the beach. A wet fog ushered in the morning of the 14th August, and left every object dark and indefinable at eighty or ninety paces distant. The breeze increased, and was fast packing the scrvvard body of ice, which now came with considerable velocity towards the shore, and threatened to lengthen our tedious and most annoying detention. To avoid this, — as to .*•' r or THE ARCTIC SEA. 317 of another the ice was [Is of open meter 42°. us stillness wind, that of remark, wind from by magic, I was con- icular bcar- 0 allow the it of ice be- then rate, a channel en- jdden revo- our anxioufi of yet float- inconstancy moved the on, which UtoN. W., or the ther- of half an jeach. August, and or ninety [ist packing onsiderablc igthen our his, — as to remain where we were could Icatl to no beneficial result, — I gave orders for the boat to be taken quite light between the few open spots of water inshore, and where impediments should occur to be lifted over, so as to return to the island, where she could be launched across, and so carried into the free space to the eastward of Point Ogle. This decisive step I was the more induced to take from having observed of late increasing symptoms of uneasiness in my leading men with respect to their return; whilst, in addition to the other inva- lid, the health of Sinclair was also beginning to yield either to the continual exposure to cold and wet, or to this com- bined with the want of hot and wholesome food. The alac- rity displayed by the men, on receiving my directions, unequivocally manifested their feelings at removing from so dismal a scene, and the exertions put forth in no common difficulties proved that it was not less hearty than general. The boat being dragged across, was brought to the place of our former station of the 9th; after which the crew went back four miles for the baggage. The whole was safely conveyed over by 8 p. M., when the water kegs were burnt to make us a kettle of hot cocoa. A fresh gale from N. W. continued, with little or no al- teration, during the great part of the night; but in the morn- ing (August 15th) the weather became calm, and the ice again set in to the southward. I went to the hillock once more, and saw one closely packed mass of drift ice extend- ing from the beach to the horizon, beyond which there was a bright yellowish white blink. This was in the direction of the N. N. W. bluff, which I have named after my friend Captain Maconochie, R. N., of whose zeal and intelligence in the cause of geograpical science I have elsewhere made mention. To the north were the same two islands that had been previously seen, the eastern extremity of which was im ■B' ui' ' 'il 318 JOURNEY TO THE SIIOHES called Point Kooth, from Mr. (now Sir Felix) Booth, whos*^ munilicent patronage of arctic discovery is too well knowa to need any tribute from me: they seemed to be of consider- able extent. To the N. E. there were water and ice, and beyond it a dark gray, or what is denominated a water sky; while from the east to Cape Hay there was an open sea, with a single island, beai'ing E. by S. and laid down as Ripon Island, out of respect to the Earl of Ripon, under whose auspices and directions it was my good fortune to act. The only barrier between us and the open water was a stream of ice, about five hundred yards wide, which, for the present, was wedged against the shore, and prevented our moving. "'41 'K.,^ ^' liy From these appearances, the fact of the flood tide coming, so far as I could judge, from the westward, the drift-wood, and the whale,' there seems good reason for supposing a passage to exist between Point Maconochie and Point James Ross. Whether the north-eastern clear space is connected with and a part of the Western Gulf of Captain Sir John Ross, I cannot undertake to determine; but I think I am warranted in an opinion that the Esquimaux outline, the sudden termi- nation of Cape Hay, and the clear sea in that particular di- rection, are strong inferences in favour of the existence of a southern channel to Regent's Inlet. On this subject it may perhaps seem idle now to speculate; but had I not known of Captain Ross's return, and it had thus been our duty to follow the eastern rather than the western passage, there seemed no obstacle to prevent our doing so. We must have been car- ried nearer to the Victory, and thus with the permission of Providence, we should have been enabled, had it been no required, to execute some part of the humane project in which tiie expedition originated. I siiall not attempt to describe what were my feelings at \i OP THE AnCTIC SEA. 319 th, vvhos'' ;11 knowa consider- l ice, and irater sky; I sea, with I as Ripon ler whose act. The stream of ,e present, noving. le coming, [rift-wood, ipposing a oint James connected fohn Ross, warranted den termi- rticular di- itence of a ect it may known of y to follow seemed no ! been car- nission of t been no t in which 'eclings at finding my endeavours baffled in every quarter but the one with which (however interesting as regarded the trending of the land) 1 had no concern. When the mind has been made up to encounter disasters and reverses, and has fixed a point as the zero of its scale, however for a time it may be depress- ed by doubts and difficulties, it will mount up again with the first gleam of hope for the future; but, in this instance, there was no expedient by which we could overcome the obstacles before us: every resource w.is exhausted, and it was vain to expect that any efibrts, however strenuous, could avail against the close-wedged ice, and the constant fogs which envc'oped every thing in impenetrable obscurity. No one of course can regret so much as I do that the important and interesthig object of ascertaining the existence of a passage along the coast to Point Turnagain was not accomplished; nut if there be any who think that little was achieved in comparison with what was undertaken, (though such a notion can hardly with justice be entertained,) let them reflect that even in the ordi- nary pursuits of men, with all the appliances of civilized life to boot, the execution is rardly equal to the conception; and then also consider how much greater the impediments must be in a climate vvhcrc the elements war against all intruders, and confound the calculations and set at nought the talents even of such men as Parry and Franklin. I had for some time cherished the notion of dividing the party, leaving four to protect the boat and property, whilst the remainder, with Mr. King, would have accompanied me on a land journey towards Point Turnagain; but this scheme was completely frustrated by the impracticability of carrying any weight on a soil in which at every step wc sunk half-leg deep; destitute of shrubs or moss for fuel, and almost with- out water; over which wc must have travelled for days to have made even a few miles of longitude; and where, finally, ■'iin. i ' ^V r " • -If I 1 i M-i ^ y 320 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES if sickness had overtaken any one, his fate would have been inevitable. Thus circumstanced, therefore, and reflecting on the long and dangerous stream, combining all the bad features of the worst rivers in the country, that we had to retrace, the hazards of the falls and rapids, and the slender hope which remained of our attaining even a single mile farther, I felt that I had no choice, and, assembling the men, I informed them that the period fixed by his Majesty's Gov- ernment for my return had arrived; and that it now only remained to unfurl the British llag, and salute it with three cheers in honour of His Most acious Majesty, whilst his royal name should be given to lis portion of America, by the appellation of William the i mrth's Land. The intima- tion was received with extreme satisfaction; and the loyal service performed with the cheering accompaniment of a small allowance from our limited remaining stock of spirits. The latitude of this place was 68° 13' 57" N., longitude, 94° 58' 1" W., and variation, as well as the sluggishness of the instrument would allow me to determine, 1° 46' W. From this it appears that we were only four miles south of Point Turnagain, which consequently bore nearly due west from us. .'iJ " 5^1 L>'^ Ui OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 321 lavc been reflecting I the bad we had to le slender ngle mile ; the men, ity's Gov- now only with three whilst his nerica, by he intima- 1 the loyal ment of a of spirits. longitude, ishness of 1° 46' W. s south of J due west CHAPTER XII. Exhilarating Influence of a Hunting Excursion. — Removal of the Esquimaux. — Leave them a Bag of Pemmican. — Accident to the Boat. — /n^mdation of tlie Country. — Di.iCovery of Esquimaux. — Wise Man of tJie Tribe.— Critical Position in the Rapids,— A Storm.— Adventure of a Lemming.— Encamp at Musk-Ox Rajnd. —Meeting wita Mr. M'Leod.—Fate of Williamson.— TVie Yellow Knives.— Encamp on Artillery Lake. — Reach the Ah-itel-dessy. — Depart for Montreal. — 7%e Sauteaux Indians.— Success of a Mis- sionary at Saidt Ste. Marie.— Return to England.— Conclusion. During the night the ice had parted sufficiently to allow of our reaching open water, and with a fair wind we went about twenty miles south, where, for the second time in nine days, we partook of a warm meal. Three stars were seen. Rain fell in abundance the whole of the night and following day; and as it -was accompanied by a strong breeze, we were unable to move until 9 p. m. ; when, tempted by a lull, we set out on the traverse to the eastern shore. We were soon, however, enveloped in a thick fog, which shortly turned to a heavy rain, and drenched us to the skin. The people ex- erted themselves to the utmost, and yet w did not reach Point Beaufort until past two in the morning. 41 »'■••» 4,^ 322 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES r./.- ^. •:'■-' 1^> H|ll.' f^' ^«-','-l Hr^P"' ' ■M;'V' m1^'" ,,■■■,- ' ?■"-;;:»,.': K%Mls ''■'* ••.r*;. . ffi«-M' ' ^ L ■■ >: :• .-ttf"** ^Sl^' -^ 1 - : ■•^3U.'.,, BsSi''' •'*-■>. ;':«a:i, Ks^'' ■*■ ■ KKg^v ^' . ■ Jjti'j'' Kv£ ,]Pl yBl^il','.':' 't4V''''' '■ ' 1 Bf^'j',,'- ^'" r'^.% hM'^'v-, •>:-ff:' R^';l'>' Sfir ■ ' '■■ ' ■ ■ ^^f?r^.- iVi I Iffi^k- ■"■!'■- " Pi 1 ' ' '''^' '. 'f'- '■ Pl^^ ■ /I ■.''■■' {fi™*V;;i ■'." ^^«,', ^i' m$:, , iK^*;S'.». 1 M^^'; i • .mJ|V^^ ' Bp-'^"'"' P||v *. ,^1 August 17th. — A N. W. gale set in with such fury, that we were obliged to move the boat from where she had been hauled up to a more safe and sheltered place to leeward, and there also we took refuge ourselves from the heavy squalls and the snow that poured down in large flakes. In the evening divine service was read. The succeeding day brought us no better weather; and the surf and waves were much higher. I had long observed a depression of spirits in my steersmen, which I had attributed to the novelty of their situation, but I could not account for the gloom which now spread itself as if by infection over the rest; except, indeed, the artillerymen, whose steady conduct was such as to deserve the highest commendation. The thing itself was of little moment now; but as inclancholy faces and melancholy weather are not agreeable companions, and thinking that some of the party would be benefitted by a freer circulation of blood, I sent them to hunt, with the promise of a glass of grog to any one who should bring home something for supper. This infused some activity into them: and after an absence of a few hours, they returned cheerful and ruddy with exercise, bringing with them three fine hares and a brace of ducks, different from any that had hitherto been seen. In colour, these last resembled the bustard of the country, with black neck and bill, the latter short and more curved than in the other kinds; sepia brown plumage about the back and wings, with a mixture of black-gray, the breast a dull white, and the legs black. They had not the least fishy flavour, and, plain boiled, made us an excellent meal. The N. W. gale gradually abated in the night, and on the 19th we proceeded towards the river, aided by a breeze from the east; and as it increased, I beheld with a satisfaction al- most painful the admirable qualities of the boat, which, had ii.«; «j >.^ iry, that had been leeward, le heavy ikes. In r; and the bservcd a attributed ccount for n over the ly conduct ion. The \elancholy mpanions, nefitted by , with the ring home into them: [ cheerful fine hares id hitherto stardofthe t and more nage about the breast it the least llent meal. and on the ireeze from ifaction al- vhich, had OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 323 there been a clear passage, would have taken us I.i the same gallant style to Point Turnagain. The wind freshened into a gale, and made us seek shelter and safety under the lee of Victoria Headland. Here the rain fell in ..orrents; and not- withstanding the additional covering of the mainsail over the tent, it was impossible to keep it out. The storm, in fact, partook more of the cliaracter of a hurricane than a common gale, and it was with difficulty we could keep the tent up at all. August 21. — The wind gave place to a dark wet fog, so thick that we were barely able to start by creeping along the land towards the mouth of the river; and after getting fre- quently on shcre upon the shoals at its mouth, we entered it in the afternoon amidst heavy rain, which, however, some of the people scarcely noticed in their delight at having fairly left the ice: one, indeed, as soon as the sea was shut out from view, tossed up his cap for joy. The western range of moun- tains, extending to Point Richardson, was honoured by the name of her Most Gracious Majesty; others which were visi- ble in the evening, after Francis Chantrcy, Esq. ; and the eastern range was distinguished after Her Royal Highness the Dutchess of Kent. The night was again rainy, and after a long detention we reached the lower fall, where in our de- scent we had found the Esquimaux. They had disappeared, which I much regretted, not only because my pockets were laden with presents for them, but because I wanted to make some more sketches, and to show them the survey of the coast, as far as we had been, and obtain, if possible, some further information. The water in the river had fallen three feet, and thereby afforded a facility for launching the boat over a point where the baggage was also carried. Having proceeded four miles farther to a line of heavy rapids, an Es- quimaux was seen on the hills; and sl^ortly after the two tents V. ^ . C' Ur'-.t ,ti' 324 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES which wc had before viiitcd were discovered, pitched on the eastern bank of a strong rapid, the eddies of which probably- furnished an ample supply of fish. It was impossible for us to cross without endangering the boat, and we commenced making two long portages, while the natives watched uf with much composure from the opposite heights, where they were all seated in a line. As we could not attract them to us by any signs, a number of iron hoops were placed on a pile of stones, with various coloured ribands attached to them.; be- sides twenty-three awls, fifteen fish-hooks, three dozen brass rings, and two pounds of beads. All this was done under their eyes; they could scarcely fail therefore to understand its friendly import, and that our intention was to benefit them. My only fear was lest such, to them, inestimable wealth should stir up quarrels among them, from any real or fancied inequality in the distribution. We encamped near the next rapid. It blew too hard on the following morning to allow us to move, and we saw the Esquimaux watching us from behind the rocks. About noon, two of them brought their kieyaks to the water's edge oppo- site to us, with the intention, as we supposed, of crossing over; but having waited until the wind fell without any further attempt on their part to move, I left a bag of pemmican on another heap of stones as a further substantial proof of our kind intentions, and finally pushed oif, taking the western rapid, which communicated with Lake Franklin. Its shal- lowness gave us much trouble, but with the aid of the line the boat was at length hauled up. The sails were immediate- ly set; and though there was a considerable sea in the more exposed part of the lake, we scarcely took in a drop of water. The weather became somewhat finer as we advanced through the country, but not altogether free from rain. As we p' ss- ed a rapid, a white w^If was seen swimming across \ ith ^^^^ OP THK ARCTIC SEA. 395 hcd on the I probably ible for us )mmenccd eel ur with they were n to us by n a pile of them; be- lozen brass lone under anderstand nefit them, ble wealth I or fancied 30 hard on »ve saw the bout noon, edge oppo- )f crossing my further mmican on oof of our le western Its shal- of the line mmediate- n the more p of water, ed through ^s we p' is- icross \ ith something in its mouth, which was supposed to be food for its young. August 2.5th. — The rain poured down in such torrents, that the little dog woke me by scrambling under my cloak to escape from the water, whicli was running in a stream through the teni. The wind beiu , with the current, our oars were of little service, and were relinquished for the line. This of course obliged us to round all the windings and small bays along the banks, and consequently lengthened the dis- tance; but on the succeeding day, a fine leading wind took us to the foot of some rapids, and subsequently to Mount Meadovybank, on whose shelving side many musk oxen and deer were feeding. In the afternoon we picked up our cache of ammunition, and by avoiding a wide opening shortened the distance to the next rapids. The tracking along the banks of this part, which was steep and covered with large boulders, mixed with smaller round stones, was exceedingly fatiguing from the uncertainty of the footing, the shingly surface ge- nerally sliding away under the pressure of each step, so that the people were constantly falling and hurting themselves. The lowness of the water too caused the navigation of many parts to be exceedingly intricate, and some which, in de- scending, the boat had passed over were now quite dry; nevertheless, we made such good progress that at night we encamped below the Wolf Rapid. The next day was too foggy to allow us to start until 10 A. M., when we ascended the rapids; in one of which the boat struck so severely against a sunken rock, that she was stove under her larboard bow: however, by caulking with oakum and grease we contrived to reach our cache of two bags of pemmican, which had been uncovered, as was sup- posed, by the wolvereens. By this exposure to the rain a fc-^f m m 32G JOURNEY TO THE SHORES mm ' W^% ^ ■|f;.v;. ■■ ? great proportion was loo inucli damaged for consumption, and was carefully covered up again for the benefit of the first marauder, biped or quadrupetl, that might have the luck to fall upon it. At this spot the boat was cobbled up; and, again pursuing the route, we reached lOscape Rapid, where we found .. piece nf the oar which had been broken in the descent, and was now lying by a drowned deer in one of the eddies. The falls were too heavy to haul up, and it was late, before we had carried every thing to the south end. A fair wind, however, was not to be lost; and, after taking up another cache in excellent order, we proceeded as far as Sin- clair's Falls, near which some ice yet lingered on the banks, and the "rass and moss were still of a brownish hue. The season, indeed, had been generally untoward; for there was not a single berry, and, what was more surprising, scarcely a mosquito or a sand-fly — a proof that the summer must have been an extraordinary one, and altogether different from such as had been formerl}'^ experienced. Three or four musk-bulls were seen grazing singly and apart, under the lee of rocks or sand-hills: they were not much scared at our approach; but, as they were not eatable, we did not molest them. Towards evening, two white wolves trotted past, evidently on the scent of a poor wounded deer that had taken refuge on an island about a mile from them. Having made a ])ort- age we reached the Rock Rapid, of which wc had intended to try the eastern side; but perceiving that it was certainly the less eligible of the two, we followed the old passage, and by 8 p. M. were safely in Lake Macdougall. From the sum- mit of a rock, I saw, with surprise, that the whole country was inundated; that which in July had been dry and green being now converted into a wide swamp. It was not without difficulty and anxiety that we ascended the long and dangerous line of rapids leading to Lake Gairy, OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 327 ilion, nnil the lirst e luck to up; and, (1, where jn in tlie nc of the t was late. A fair aking up »r as Sin- ^e banks, Lie. The there was , scarcely oust have 'rem such lusk-bulls of rocks ipproach ; st them. 2viclcntly n refuge c a port- intended certainly sage, and the sum- country nd green ascended e Gairy, whoso smooth and glassy surface presented a striking contrast to its wintry covering of five weeks ago. A sand-hill that had served the same pur|)osc before was again selected for our encampment, and a more cfirtain evidence of the torrents of rain that must have fallen could not have been aiTorded, than by the spectacle of whole fields of unbroken moss, which had been swept away in a body from the face of the summit (a height of sixty feet,) and was strewed like a carpet' along the beach. August 31st. — Having made the traverse to that part where the ice had first detained us, we were rather astonished at seeing a number of marks on a point which none of us re- collected to have observed when passing it before: accordingly, they were examined; and, from their apparent freshness, and the newly gathered moss about, it was evident that they could not have been up many days. There were also nu- merous tracks of men and dogs on the sand. The weather was rather hazy; so that, at the moment, objects could not be clearly made out; but, as we were pulling alongshore, M'Kenzie thought he espied a deer on the stony summit of a sloping hill, which terminated in a point where many more marks had been erected similar to those lately left. It was, however, soon discovered to be an Esquimaux; and, presently, two more of his companions rose up from behind some rocks, where they had lain concealed until, as they thought, we were far enough from them to allow them to venture out. Convinced, from their manner, that they would have fled, we did not think it worth while to return to them, but pursued our course; and, when we least expected it, just after lifting the boat over a shoal, came suddenly upon twelve tents, surrounded by a swarm of men, women, and children; the latter of whom began to howl and cry, and fled hastily behind the rocks for protection. The former displayed ""Imost It H 'if m h:m m '■■■*!;■■ . » 1 > •S'iH JOUHNKV TO THE SHORES as mtich uiipnsincss; and, each being armed with his spear and .sling, lialluued and made intelligiblu signs, hy tlie impa- tient waving ol" one hand, that we should not approach them. Nevertheless, we advanced, making the usual demonstration of friendship by raising up both arms; but, when we were abreast of them, they retreated with precipitation to the tents and rocks; and, having no interpreter to dispel their fears, and unwilling to add to their consternation by landing, we pulled slowly on. As soon as they perceived this, and were satisfied that we had no intention to hurt them, an elderly man ran after us along the rocks, keeping, however, at a respectful distance; and with loud vociferations, and the same action with the hand as before, still bade us go away. He had not proceeded above a couple of hundred yards, when some of his friends prepared to follow him. This ho forbade with the same wave of the hand that was used to us; and then we perceived, infinitely to our amusement, that this was the conjurer or wise man of the tribe, and that he was at that moment imitating the growling and motion of a bear, bending himself and walking on his hands and knees, think- ing, no doubt, to charm us away. It is diflicult to form a correct opinion of the numbers of the party; though about sixty or seventy would probably be near the truth. We saw only four kieyaks; and I think it probable that they were inhabitants of Wager Bay, or Chesterfield Inlet. yt^' ,-. K:'; September 1st. — Having hauled up the rapid which con- nects Lake Pelly with Lake Garry, wc picked up our cache at the island; and subsequently passed another, half covered with old drift willows and quills. A herd of musk oxen and a few straggling doer were quietly feeding on the sand- hills; and many of the white, brown, and laughing geese were flying about, and seemed to be collecting for their southerly migration. :^h. v-'ji>\, : Mt'y:i ] OK THE AIICTIC SEA. 380 his spear the iinpa- uch them, onstration we were on to tlic ispel their y landing, 1 this, and them, an however, ns, and the go away, red yards, , This ho used to us; it, that this hat he was [ of a hear, ces, think- to form a jugh about We saw they were lich con- our cache f covered nusk oxen the sand- ling geese for their On the 1th, a hard gah) from the N. W. indicated the com- mencement of the fall weather; and, while we were travelling, many hundreds of geese Hew high past us to the south. It was necessary to haul the boat all day; and we ascended be- tween sixteen and twenty rapids, which, owing to the shal- lowness of the water, were very troublesome. Sand-banks and islands appeared in every direction, and so changed was the face of the river that it was not easy to recognise it. In the centre of the Hawk Rapid the line broke, and threw us into a very critical situation; one, indeed, which, with a less active crew, might have been followed by serious conse- quences. However, by clinging to the rocks until the damage was repaired, the boat was held fast, and prevented from de- scending again. As we advanced, the shoals and bars greatly impeded our progress; so that, in an ordinary season, the navigation would have been impracticable cvei for a boat entirely light. September Cth. — The morning set in with the promise of a fme day, and a favourable wind heightened the expectation that a considerable distance would be made; but so little arc atmospheric appearances to be depended upon in this tract, that after twc hours' sailing the whole sky became darken- ed,—t-a mist rose, — and the rain poured, not in drops, but in lines, as if it fell from so many spouts; the water, therefore, was soon above the stern sheets, and we landed to find shelter, and secure our remaining provision. The gale soon increased to a storm that brought with it heavy squalls and thunder, and extinguished the fire nearly as fast as it was lighted. However, by perseverance, weather cloths, and sundry other expedients, we got it at last fairly kindled — to our great con- tentment, for we had sliot a fat deer, and were not a little eager to change our accustomed dish of old mouldy pemmi- can for so savoury a repast, tliough eaten without salt, or any 42 ■to A >'. I ■■'ii i^'^ii 330 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES of those appliances which hixury has 'nvented for relieving the insipidity and adding to the relish of plain boiled meat. The storm continued from N. E. all night; and though the mainsail had been thrown over the tent, it was quite ineffec- tual to keep out the rain, which ran in streams through both. At midnight there was a partial lull, after which it freshened again, and soon blew more furiously than ever, accompanied with snow, which on the following morning (the 7th) had covered the surface of the hills and ground around us, and given a wintry aspect to the scene. About 10 p. m. the water had risen four feet, when, for the third time, the boat was hauled higher on the bank. So completely cold and drenched was every thing outside, that a poor little lemming, unable to contend with the floods that had driven it successively from all its retreats, crept silently under the tent, and smuggled away in precarious security within a few paces of a sleeping terrier. Unconscious of its danger, it licked its fur coat, and darted its bright eyes from object to object, as if pleased and surprised with its new quarters; but soon the pricked ears of the awakened dog announced its fate, and in another in- stant the poor little stranger was quivering in his jaws. September 8th. — The morning was gloomy; but as the wind had fallen, we gladly availed ourselves of the opportunity to get away, though the current was strong, and the weather so thick that it was sometimes difficult to find the right chan- nel. About 9 the sun broke out, and allowed us to dry our wet clothes. Passing Baillie's River, we ascended the long rapid where the first Esquimaux marks were seen, and found the country on either side quite converted into a swamp. Towards evening a N. W. gale came on, with sleet and snow, and the next morning all the creeks were solidly frozen. The cold was indeed excessive; and what with snow, squalls, and mist, we did not make much progress. The water had ! OP THE ARCTIC 8EA. 331 relieving iled meat, hough the ile inefiec- 3ugh both. freshened companied le 7th) had nd us, and :. the water e boat was d drenched ing, unable sively from d smuggled r a sleeping ts fur coat, IS if pleased jricked ears another in- jaws. , as the wind lortunity to 1th e weather right chan- to dry our ed the long , and found a swamp. it and snow, idly frozen, pw, squalls, ,c water had risen considerably, and the mud and sand cliffs were worn into innumerable ravines from the constant drainage of the upper lands. It occupied the better part of a day to get past the cascades, and a most laborious and hazardous service it was; such as assuredly would not have been attempted by any but persons situated as we were. The boat barely withstood the shocks she received, and was obliged to be repaired and caulked to keep her afloat. On Lake Beechy we had abun- dance of snow, and wind enough to detain us. At some dis- tance from it we saw three hawks attack a wounded goose and a ^uU, which they seemed pretty certain of killing. On September 1 5th we took up our first cache, which had been eaten into by the lemmings, and was partly damaged; and late in the evening we encamped at the upper end of Musk-Ox Rapid, but saw no fresh traces of Indians. Only sixteen days earlier in the previous season the surrounding hills were covered with deer carelessly feeding in all direc- tions, and every thing had the tint of summer on it: now, not a solitary deer was seen ; the tea plant had evidently been frozen, the dwarf birch was almost leafless, the willow was bright yellow, and the whole country was clothed in a livery of sober brown. Five musk oxen were the only living crea- tures about; all others having deserted a place which the year before was teeming with life. A northerly breeze brought on a fog, in the midst of \yhich we crossed Musk-Ox Lake, but were unable to see our way afterwards until 11a. m., when we found ourselves abreast of Icy River, always covered with ice. Subsequently we got to the first portage on the Thlew-ec-choh, and on the fol- lowing day (September 17th) met our friend Mr. M'Leod, who with four men and two Indians had already been several days at Sand Hill Bay. The pleasure of this meeting I shall ft jf.j'''.'' *#"* '«;■' •?- 'l A ** ••, 332 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES tu fill ' ' '"at ' lbpl» * € I'l •i*^ fei?J fir' ^ ' not attempt to describe. He had been long expecting us, and had passed, it seems, many anxious hours in watching the dis- tant objects in the direction of our route. After our departure in July he had effected his return to the house with the loss of two dogs only, and had gone from thence to Fort Resolution, to take possession of the forty bags of pemmican, as well as the outfit from York Factory, which had been forwarded by the Company. As he retraced his way, he had established two fisheries;* and having deposited the goods safe in store at the Fort, and left a trustworthy man in care of them, he pro- ceeded without loss of time to fulfil my last instructions by coming to the Thlew-ee-choh. It was gratifying to hear that the men under his charge had conducted themselves with propriety; but the' faint hope I had entertained of poor Wil- liamson's being alive was extinguished by the intelligence that his body had been found and interred by Mr. M'Leod. The unhappy man was discovered lying on the ground, with a few sticks near him, not far from his fire. He had died, as it seemed, from famine, aided, perhaps, from the des- pondency so observable in his conduct for some months previous to his discharge. The cause of this dejection we were unable to discover; but so melancholy was he, that in the autumn before the house was built, and when we were all encamped around it, instead of associating with his com- rades, he built himself a hut with pine branches, in which he ate his solitary meal; and frequently in the stillness of the night, when most others were at rest, this extraordinary man would be found sitting before his dwelling, with his eyes in- tently fixed on the dying embers of his fire. He did little duty of any kind, and was treated with uniform kindness by the whole of the people, who called liim Poor David, seem- * One fishery was opposite Reindeer Island, and the other near Point Keith, 115 miles from Fort Reliance. ing us, and ing the dis- ir departure hi the loss of ssolution, to I well as the rded by the blished two 1 store at the m, he pro- ructions by to hear that selves with f poor Wil- intelligcnce r. Med one of hitherto 3 evening re visited nd there - n, which, ircely ex- the Fort, I him the odge, his ss of one ; all their id labour lie whole bleak sea- fashioned issly over of which, however, were rapid, and too shoal for any thing larger than one of their hunting canoes. After running another rapid, we collected more meat at a second encamp- ment, to which the occupants of the former also, including the old man, had followed us; and as they all crowded into the tent, I showed them the survey of the river, and particu- larly pointed out' those parts where the greatest number of animals had been seen, recommending them, in the event of any future failure, to go so far, which I assured them they might do with safety. They answered, " it was good;" but appeared too indifferent to allow me to suppose that they had any idea, at that time at least, of taking advantage of it. They looked, however, with eager curiosity at the length and windings of the river, its numerous falls and extensive lakes; and their attention was riveted to the slightest word relating to the Esquimaux. A few presents from these last to me were scrutinized with the minutest attention, and they listened in profound silence to my account of their peaceful conduct. 1,1' m m % the coun- jr, to see the chil- mplaints, cd at the irepared stinate," the only whether, either to t of the sv/er my akes and chob, all At night we encamped at the first pines on the western shore of Artillery Lake. While we were with the Indians in the morning, our dog Had hunted and sadly pulled about a poor lemming, half torpid with cold. The first gripe had blinded it, and the little creature was now running about on the ice along the border of the river; while the dog, as if conscious that it could not escape, kept mouthing and play- ing with it. The sick old Indian was seated by the fire, joining in the half-smothered laugh which the sport created. Hereupon I rose from my seat, and calling the dog away, caught the mouse, warmed it by the fire, and when it had somewhat recovered its strength, laid it gently down at the entrance of a burrow in the sand-bank, into which it soon disappeared. I then threw in a piece of fat after it for food. '<» 336 JOUnNEY TO THE SHORES tarx 'Hi m -•; 7 . ilBI an. ,' J As I anticipated, the Indians were not inattentive to what was passing; and when I pointed to the infirm old man near them, and said that the helpless should be protected, they understood the meaning of what had been done, and with expressions of satisfaction promised to remember it. The weather still continued squally, with snow; but the breeze being fair, the foresail was hoisted, and about noon of the 24th we got to the Ah-hel-dessy, where we were greeted by the sight of berries. Some Indians encamped in a bay made signs for us to go to them, which being disregarded, they ran after us to say they had plenty of meat: however they were directed to bring it to the Fort. The descent of this small but abominable river was a succession of running rapids, making portages, and lowering down cascades; and much time was occupied in previous examination, without which precaution we dared not stir a yard; still the rapids increased in number and difficulty, until at last a deep and perpendicular fall, (which I have named after Capt. Ander- son, R. A.), rushing between mountainous rocks into a vast chasm, stopped all further progress. The steersmen, unwill- ing to be arrested even by such obstacles, went some distance farther, but soon returned with an account of more falls and cascades. To convey the boat over so rugged and mountain- ous a country, most of the declivities of which were coated with thin ice, and the whole hidden by snow, so as to render mere walking difficult enough, was obviously impossible; and though it was annoying to be forced to leave her, yet, as there was no alternative, she was safely hauled up among somo willows and secured, until she could be brought away on sledges in the following spring. A cache was also made of the sails, meat; &.C., a great part of which, as was after- wards found, was destroyed by the wolvereens, which, apparently out of mischief, cut the towing line into short OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 337 c to what 1 man near icted, they and with it. iv; but the >ut noon of jre greeted d in a bay isregarded, ;: however descent of of running scades; and )n, without the rapids a deep and ipt. Ander- into a vast en, unwill- me distance re falls and 1 mountain- vere coated as to render impossible; e her, yet, up among )ught away also made was after- ns, which, into short lengths of from one to two feet, tore the sails and covering into rags, and so gnawed u bag that the two hundred balls it contained were strewed about, and most of them lost. There is, in fact, no guarding against these animals; their strength, as compared with their size, is enormous, as may be under- stood from the fact that most of the stones used in forming this cache were, singly, as much as two able men could lift. Each of the crew being laden with a piece weighing seventy-five pounds, we began our march to the Fort across the mountains, now entirely covered with snow four inches deep. The small lakes and swamps were also frozen hard enough to bear a passage across. We had not proceeded more than six or seven miles, when observing the spray rising from another fall, we were induced to visit it, and were well consoled for having left the boat where she was. From the only point at which the greater part of it was visible, we could distinguish the river coming sharp round a rock, and falling into an upper basin almost concealed by inter- vening rocks; whence it broke in one vast sheet into a chasm between four and five hundred feet deep, yet in appearance so narrow that we fancied we could almost step across it. Out of this the spray rose in misty columns several hundred feet above our heads; but as it was impossible to see the main fall from the side on which we were, in the following spring I paid a second visit to it, approaching from the western bank. The road to it, which I then traversed in snow shoes, was fatiguinging in the extreme, and scarcely less dangerous; for, to say nothing of the steep ascents,, fissures in the rocks, and deep snow in the valleys, we had sometimes to creep along the narrow shelves of precipices slippery with the frozen mist that fell on them. But it was a sight wliich well re- paid any risk. My first impression was of a strong resemblance to an iceberg in Smeercnberg Harboui', Spitzbergen. The 43 wm 338 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES W--'- ^ m i I '.'f .'. I* ' *"^ ate- • i' X.' < pi IF' whole face of the rocks forming the chasm was entirely coat- ed with blue, green, and white ice, in thousands of pendent icicles: and there were, moreover, caverns, fissures, and overhanging ledges in all imaginable varieties of form, so corious and beautiful as to surpass any thing of which I had ever heard or read. The immediate approaches were ex- tremely liazardous, nor could we obtain a perfect view of the lower fall, in consequence of the projection of the western cliffs. At the lowest position which we were able to attain, we were still mors than a hundred feet above the level of the bed of the river beneath; and this, instead of being nar- row enough to step across, as it had seemed from the oppo- dite heights, was found to be at least two hundred feet wide. The colour of the water varied from a very light to a very dark green; and the spray, which spread a dimness above, was thrown up in clouds of light gray. Niagara, Wilber- force's Falls in Hood's River, the falls of Kakabikka near Lake Superior, the Swiss or Italian falls, — although they may each "charm the eye with dread," are not to be compared to this for splendour of effect. It was the most imposing spec- tacle I had ever witnessed; and as its bcrg-like appearance brought to mind associations of another scene, I bestowed upon it the name of our celebrated navigator. Sir Edward Parry, and called it Parry's Falls. September 27th. — The journey was resumed at an early hour. On passing my resting place of the preceding spring, I was surprised to see the havoc caused by the summer storms, which had uptorn by the roots and laid prostrate the tallest pines of the forest; and the devastation was even greater as we neared the lake. Late in the forenoon we arrived at Fort Reliance, after an absence of nearly four months; tired indeed, but well in health, and truly grateful for the manifold OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 339 lirely coat- )f pendent surcs, and if forn, so hich I had I were ex- ct view of he western e to attain, 16 level of being nar- the oppo- . feet wide. it to a very less above, pa, Wilber- ibikka near h they may o;Tipared to osing spec- appearance bestowed >ir Edward at an early ing spring, ner storms, the tallest 1 greater as arrived at nths; tired le manifold mercies we had experienced in the course of our long and perilous journey. T)ie house was standing, l)ut that was all; for it inclined fearfully to the west, and the mud used for plastering had been washed .iway by the rain. The observa- tory was in little better state; and my canoe had been splint- ered by lightning. Nothing, in short, could present a more cheerless appearance for a dwelling: but the goods, and some meat brought by the Indians, were dry in the store; and, after three hours' rest, the men were set to work about the necessary reparations The old Indian who had been, when a young man, at Hood's River, happened to be at the Fort; but he could not afford me the slightest information about the country near IJathurst's InL , nor did he know of any other way of getting there with small canoes. "But," said he, "why does the chief ask me, when lie is the only one who has been there?" This was a grievous disappointment; for, could I have ob- tained the least information to be depended upon, I had a strong wish to try if some communication might not be found between Lake Beechey and Back's River, by crossing the iiiountains in a line towards the latter, and taking with me materials to build canoes there. But, to accomplish this, without any previous knowledge of the route, would have occupied one or probably even two seasons more, and would have required an entirely fresh set of men, and much addi- tional expense. When we had reached Bathurst's Inlet, there would have been the chance of finding it full of ice; and, even on the supposition of its being perfectly free, we could not, in any manner, reckon on more than three weeks for performing the distance between this place and Ross Pillar or Point Richardson. To go by the Thlew-ee-choh again was out of the question; since, independently of its dangers. I '^M 1' 'm W. i • Wi^ T^M.'-i' •> 340 JOURNEY TO THE SHOBEP- itled to the wrona; end for a favoiirablo passap-n along the coast, the eastern portion being probably always more or less ham- pered with ice brought by the current ironr the westward. Upon these considerations, and Inllucr ■■.ii, moreover, by a fooling that I was net uuthori/.eil to swell the expunse of a service the original object of which had been happily antici- pated by Providence, I relinquishcil, though with sincere reluctance, the further prosecution of its secondary purpose as altogether hopeless from this particular quarter. i v? i ^v w'A.. It remained, therefore, only to make arrangements for passing the winter as comfortably as our means would per- mit; and, as there was not the remotest probability that there \\ould be sufficient food at the house for the consumption of the whole party, all except six went with Mr. M'Lcod to the fisheries, conveying, at the same time, to the Company's establishment at P'ort Resolution, the various bales of goods and other articles which we did not now require. A great proportion of the pemmican also was deposited in store there, for the use of the expedition in its passage through the country. The Indians brought us provision from time to time; and our friend Akaitcho, with his followers, though not very successful, was not wnnting in his contributions. The name of this chief is so associated with Sir John Franklin's first expedition, that it may not be uninteresting .,0 say a few words about him here. He is no longer the same active and important person that he was in those days; for, besides the infirmities that have crept upon him, he has grown peevish and fickle. His once absolute authority is consequently re- duced to a shadow; and, with the exception of his sons and his own family, he can scarcely boast of a single subject or OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 341 ^r ; the coasts ' less ham- vvestvvard. over, by a ponse of a Dily antici- th sincere ry purpose sments for would per- { that there umption of M'Leod to Cc mpany's !S of goods A great store there, ough the time; and not very The name klin's first say a few active and besides the rn peevish pently re- s sons and subject or adherent in his summer excursions to hunt. During winter, however, the clan still keep togetlier as formerly. The Yellow Knives have dra^v•n vengeance on theitiselveg by their wanton and oppressive conduct towards their neigh- bours, the Slave Indians; an inolFinisive race, whom they plundered of their peltries and women on the most trifling occasions of dispute, and too often out of mere insolence, and the assertion of that superiority with which the fears of the Slaves invested them. At last, after submitting to every scourge that th(! ingenuity of barbarism could inflict — after beholding their wives and daughters torn from their lodges, and their young men branded with the badge of slavery, they were suddenly animated with a spirit of revenge; and, in one season, partly by treacliery and partly by valour, an- nihilated the boasted ascendency of their tyrants. From this contest dates the downfall of the Yellow Knives: their well-known chiefs, and the flower of their youth — all who had strength or ability were massacred; and the wretched remnant were driven from the ricli hunting grounds about the Yellow Knife River to the comparatively barren hills bordering on Great Slave Lake. This revolution in their fortunes, followed as it was by suspicion, fear, and discon- tent, has sensibly affected the race itself, and entj^led a degeneracy from which they will probably never recover. There cannot now be more than seventy families remaining; and these comprise few able men, the greater proportion being aged, infirm, and decrepit, who are regarded as bur- thens upon the more acti/e and working portion of the com- munity. To complete their calamities, they have been visited by a contagious disease, which is fatally prevalent: slowly, but surely, this is consigning them to death, and, without such assistance as it is feared cannot be rendered, I' ' • ' .'1 343 JOIJHNEY TO THE snOREJ" must eventually sweep them away from among the tribes of the north. * }. m' ^i jV' i-A Their speculations regardinj^ the creation, &c. arc dwelt on at length in PVanklin's Journey to the Polar Sea; but most of tiiem are either forgotten, or strangely distorted by the present generation, who content themselves with a sim- ple belief in the existence of One Great Spirit, \Vho rewards the good and punishes the evil-doer. I was once speaking to the Camaradc de Mandcville, a Chipewyan chief, on this subject, and was endeavouring to impress on his mind a few moral precepts for his future guidance, to which he listened with the most profound gravity and attention. When I had concluded, he raised his head a little, and, with eyes fixed on the floor, said, in a low and solemn tone, "The chief's words have sunk deep into my lieart; and I shall often think of them when I am alone. It is true that I am ignorant; but I never lie down at night in my lodge without whisper- ing to the Great Spirit a prayer for forgiveness, if I have done anything wrong that day. » •1.; .J ^V,K l4 ^ St.-,: 1:! The Chipewyans, although they sometimes associate with the Yellow Knives, never do so without caution and watch- fulnesg. Indeed, with the exception of seven or eight, who were in constant broils, they kept aloof, and came to the Fort at a time when they knew the others were absent. These*people are by no means wantiijg in shrewdness, when occasion offers for the display of it. Mr. M'Leod was re- proving one of them for the bickerings he had had with the other tribe; and, after expostulating with him on the danger of so bad an example, informed him that they were all bro- thers, created by the same Power, which made no distinction between man and man, but regarded every one according to the quality of his actions; that they should be kinu, therefore. B Irlbcs of arc dwelt Sea; but storied by ith a sim- 0 rewards speaking ;f, on tbis is mind a whicli be »n. When with eyes le, "The shall often 1 ignorant; t whispcr- if I have ciate with nd watch- ight, who [ne to the re absent, ess, when d was re- 1 with the he danger 'e all bro- listinction wording to therefore, %. • ■« } ov THE AnCTIC SKA. 343 and charitable towards each other, for that such conduct was pleasing to the Great S pirit. " Ah!" said the Indian, with a heavy sigii, " that is good; anil if the chief wislies to leach us in that way, which is very good, let him show that he fears the Great Spirit, and give mc a gun to hunt with; for my family are starving." While Akaitcho and his followers were at the house, I repeated to them what I had previously told the others re- specting the river, and the distance they might venture down it without falling in with the Esquimaux, whose voci- ferations and threatening manners were explained as being harmless, and their character described as pciiceablo and un- offending after a first interview. But Akaitcho observed tiiat they were difficult people to talk with, and he did not think that any of his tribe would go near them, though for his own part he was sorry he had not accompanied me. A few presents were given to them, and they went away to the westward well contented. The Chipowyans also di- rected their steps towards the Athabasca, and left us in our cold and solitary dwelling to bear the brunt of another winter. The instruments were placed in the observatory, the re- gisters recommenced, and we found full employment in con- structing the chart, writing our journals, making drawings, &c. &c. An hour every other night was devoted to the in- struction of the men; and divine service was read every Sunday, which was always held sacred as a day of rest. The tedium of the long evenings was most agreeably light- ened by the early arrival of our packet from England, con- taining not only letters, but valuable periodicals, and a file of , h 344 JOUKNEY TO THE SHORES the "New York Albion," kindly sent by Governor Simp- son. I had made some provision for a treat to the men on New Year's Day; and accordingly they all came with Mr. M'Leod from the fisheries, and our evening commenced with some sleight-of-hand tricks with cards, &c. The men who performed these were dressed up for the purpose; and having huge beards and mustachios of buffalo skin, as well as a pioneer's cap of the same stuff, looked so droll, and in their anxiety not to go wrong in their parts, in which they were not quite perfect, maintained so serious a countenance, that their very appearance produced peals of laughter. His Majesty's health was then drank with three cheers; and the people were set down to a feast, consisting of a preparation of meat and fat fried in batter (i. e. flour and, water), with cakes sweetened with treacle; after which they sang and danced, and, to use their own expression, **had grog to their heart's content." In fact, they were all thoroughly happy, and I was scarcely less happy in seeing them so. In a few days they returned to their several stations, and left us to our former solitude. ' m Our next visiters were of a more lean and hungry kind, being a troop of eighteen white wolves, which obliged us to secure the dogs by keeping them within the house during the night. They would come when every thing was quiet, prowling about the door, and frequently as we went to ob- serve iJie needle at midnight, they were within sixty paces of us on the border of the lake, or sneaking about the woods, but always retreated to a short distance when they saw any one move. Two were caught in traps, and one was shot by a spring gun, but they were immediately devoured by the others, the only remains found in the morning being the heads and legs. On>^ of their decoys was as follows: two or three would lie down on the ice a few hundred yards in »'^',' till! OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 345 M m lor rnmp- e men on with Mr. mmenced The men ■pose; and n, as well )11, and in ^hich they intenance, iter. His ;s; and the (reparation ater), with sang and og to their hly happy, In a few ti us to our rry kind, iged us to use during was quiet, cnt to oh- ixty paces the woods, saw any vas shot hy red by the being the vs: two or i\ yards iu y front of the house, in order to entice the dogs, which some- times ventured a little way towards them ; and on one occa- sion when two of them were thus lying in wait^ my little terrier, which had been bitten in the neck only two nights before, ran with five other dogs to within about fifty paces of them, when the larger of the two instantly singled it out, and after twice missing, finally seized it by the neck, and carried it deliberately away. By mere accident I happened to be looking through a pdne of glass in that direction just as the poor little thing was in its jaws. An alarm was instantly given to the people, who hounded on the dogs, and a general chase was given. The wolves contented themselves with trotting until we were gaining on them, when the one which had the little dog put it down, and seizing it afresh by the back, increased its speed, and took to the woods. Here, after a long run, the interpreter and Taylor came up as it was taking its first bite, quite heedless of the dogs, which had not the courage to ati ck it. The interpreter's gun missed fire; but the wolf was frightened and ran away, leaving its vic- tim still alive, though it died soon after from its wounds. During the winter we caught five more, among which was the delinquent, and the rest finding nothing to live upon went away. The weather was severe at first, but after Ja- nuary it became unusually mild ; and as it was necc ssary for me to return by way of Canada, the dogs and sledges were got ready early in March. I then directed Mr. King to proceed at the proper season with the Europeans to York Factory, when they would embark in the Company's ship for England; and taking leave of my companion, on the 21st of March I went towards the fisheries, where, having bade farewell to my esteemed friend Mr. M'Leod, I set out, and shortly reached Fort Resolution. Here having been kindly supplied with every thing necessary to forward me, on tlic 10th of April I atrivcd at Fort Chipewyau, where I was 44 ] i 346 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES also hospitably entertained by Mr. E. Smith, a chief factor in the Company's service. I was informed that the winter had been unusually mild round Chipewyan, as well as in the neighbourhood of Peace River, and that very little snow had fallen at either place. The accounts of the atinospheric^register kept on the banks of the M*Kenzie River gave a similar result; while at Fort Reliance, the cold, though considerably less severe than that of the preceding season, had still been so keen that the daily walk for exercise on the wood track behind the Fort could not be taken without the risk of being frost-bitten. Many of the people, indeed, suffered severely in this way while going to and from our fishery, when, as we afterwards learned, the weather a little to the westward was mild, and at times almost warm ; so that it is evident the degree of cold at one place, furnishes no inference which can be relied upon as to the temperature of another place even moderately distant. About the beginning of May, the whole of the lake began to look black and decayed: pools of water were soon formed, and then a channel, which gradually extended itself among the islands and along the shoal parts near the shore. By the 1 5th swans, geese, and different kinds of ducks appeared in large flocks, and were welcomed scarcely more as harbin- gers of spring than for the amusement of shooting them, and the grateful change which they afforded to the table. Mar- tins and other small birds soon followed. Vegetation also now made rapid progress; anemones came into flower, the catkins of the willows underwent hourly change, and the small leaf of the birch expanded itself almost perceptibly. Many women of the Fort were at this time also industriously employed in collecting the sap of these useful trees, for the ;^J OF THE ARCTIC SEA. 347 purpose of making a syrup used as a substitute for sugar, of which they are extravagantly fond. ♦ Crops of potatoes and barley are sometimes grown at Chipewyan; but these in the past season had failed, owing, as I imagine, to the proximity of the places of culture to the lake, and their consequent exposure to the chilling winds so prevalent here about the autumn and spring. Another trial, however, was now made, and seed again sown, in the hope of a more fortunate result. On the 23d of May, some boats laden with furs, &c. ar- rived from the post on Peace River, from whence they also brought a cow and a calf, and thereby supplied us with luxu- ries till then untasted at Chipewyan. A few days after, two gentlemen made their appearance from the Company's farthest establishments to the south-west of the Rocky Mountains, a long and tedious journey, which they had performed partly on horseback and partly in canoes. They were sensibly affected by the change of temperature, and remarked that the difference even within a few days was like the transition from summer to winter. Chilly N. E. winds had prevailed for nearly a fortnight, and when these Blew fresh the ice from that quarter drifted down in large quantities, and blocked up the channel, which at other times, under favourable circumstances, was clear enough to afford a passage out of the lake. On such occa- sions I was naturally anxious to get away, although unwilling to do so in the absence of my interpreter Thomas Hassel. He had remained at Fort Resolution at his own request, as substitute for the interpreter of that post, removed in conse- quence of illness to Fort Reliance for the benefit of the attention of Mr. King, under whose treatment, I may add. m 348 JOURNEY TO THE SHORES ?*;'. ' If 'tas > ■, I?: , he speedily recovered. The morning of the 28th of May, however, was so fine, and the channel so free from obstruc- tion, that I immediately prepared for my departure, having arranged that Hassel should follow in one of the Company's boats, and take the place of the person who was appointed to accompany me. Accordingly, provided with every thing that was necessary for the journey, I took leave of my kind friend Mr. Smith, of whom it is but justice to say that he had neglected nothing which might contribute in any degree to my comfort while under his hospitable roof. After several detentions, principally from gales of w nd, I got to Norway House, in Jack River, on the 24th of Jane, and found many persons there suffering from influenza. Mr. Simpson had been obliged to go to Canada; but had directed every thing necessary to be in readiness, that my progress might not be delayed. Having, therefore, examined the accounts and charges for the goods received by the expedi- tion from the Company, and left some brief directions for Mr. King, I set out very shortly for Montreal, with a crew of Iroquois and Canadians substituted for my own men, who, at their own request, were now discharged from the service. I next crossed Lake Winnipeg, and arrived at Fort Alexan- der, where we provided ourselves with a stronger canoe, better adapted for ascending the river. 'h r. As we approached Rainy Lake, nume/ous deserted huts of the Sauteaux Indians were seen on each side of the river, generally near rapids, where they spear the sturgeon as it struggles to ascend the current. The arrival of these *\sh is their season of feasting; for the large animals being nearly extinct, they often experience great difficulty in procuring food enough for subsistence; and, indeed, were it not for the wild rice, which happily grows spontaneously round the lake, and which they have prudence enough to gather up for OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 349 of May, 1 obstruc- e, having ompany's jointed to ery thing my kind y that he my degree I of \v nd, h of Jane, nza. Mr. d directed Y progress nined the le expedi- 3ctions for ith a crew nen, who, le service, 't Alexan- der canoe. erted huts the river, geon as it lese ^'sh is ng nearly procuring not for the round the her up for winter consumption, their condition would be most deplora- ble. In proof of the wretchedness to which they are reduc- ed, it is only necessary to look at the many young trees which have been stripped of their bark to afford them suste- nance. Still these people are, or rather, when we saw thein, were more than commonly robust, and had an air and car- riage greatly superior to the more peaceable tribes of the north. The almost constant state of warfare existing be- tween them and the Sieux Indians makes them daring, and gives them a peculiar strut, assumed, probably, for the pur- pose of intimidating their adversaries. On one occasion, as we were crossing a portage close to the American lines, some of these Indians came to us with a few fish, ostensibly for the purpose of exchanging them for tobacco with the voyageurs, but in reality to pilfer any thing they could con- veniently carry away. However, they were narrowly watched; and nothing was missed until at the moment of starting, when one of our Iroquois, leaping on shore, went directly up to an elderly Sauteaux, who was quietly seated on a rock, pushed him aside, and discovered his hat, which the old fellow had dexterously contrived to secrete under his dress. This detection so annoyed him, that when the ca- noe was pushed off from the land he began pelting us with stones, but desisted on my holding up my hand in token of disapprobation. The river Kaministiquoya was found so sh.dlow that three or four of the crew were obliged to walk along the banks^ and in attempting to mane a short cut through the woods they got bewildered. After endeavouring for a short time in vain to recover the track by which they had entered, one of the number climbed a pine-tree, in the hope of descrying the river; but unfortunately, in grasping one of the topmost branches, he unconsciously disturbed a wasp's nest, suspend- ^'3 it; 350 JOURNEY TO rnr. shores mm tw. cd just above his head; and so instantaneous and fierce was the attack upon his face and eyes, that ti.-^ poor fellow tum- bled, rather than came down, covered with stings, and vo( '- ferating loudly for assistance. The report of a gun fired about the same time, enabled the stragglers to rejoin the ca- noe. At Sault Ste. Marie, which I reached about the end of July, I met with a most hospitable, and, indeed, flattering reception. Major Codd, the commandant of the American garrison, paid me the extraordinary compliment of receiving me with a salute of eleven guns. In the evening of the same day, I had also the gratification of passing a few hours at the mission-house of the Rev. W. M 'Murray, whose pious en- deavours to reclaim the poor Indians in that district are de- serving of the highest praise. In the short space of two years, this exemplary man has received into his fold no fewer than two hundred converts; and has established a school, attended, not unfrequently, by fifty scholars. By the liberality of the government, a school-house was then in the course of erec- tion for the use of the mission; and the appointment of a schoolmaster was in contemplation. Houses were also building for the accommodation of at least twenty Indian fa- milies, who were to be instructed in agriculture, for which they were said to have manifested a decided inclination. Nor has Mr. M'Murray confined his exertions to his own immediate neighbourhood; some of the more zealous mem- bers of his congregation having been despatched along the northern shores of Lake Superior to visit the brethren about Michipicoton, who were anxiously seeking for instruction. A translation into Chippewa of the catechism and part of the common prayer of the church, executed by Mr. M'Murray, and printed by direction of the committee at Toronto, has been supplied for the use of the scholars and the mission OP THE ARCTIC SEA. 351 fierce was ellow turn- , and vorl- gun fired join the ca- the end of 1, flattering J American f receiving of the same lOurs at the J pious en- rict are de- f two years, fewer than I, attended, rality of the rse of erec- itment of a were also Y Indian fa- I, for which inclination, to his own alous mem- i along the ithren about instruction. 1 part of the M the summer heat does not exceed that of Bear Lake, being 10° less than that whicli is experienced in the same parallel in the interior of the continent. The phenomenon of the isothermal lines sinking on the western coast of Hudson's Bay, instead of rising as they do on the eastern coast of Europe, has beer, variously accounted for. Dr. Brewster assumes two northern poles of cold, and places one of them on the meridian of 92°, which is the longitude of Church- hill; but we think that the peculiarities of the climate of this part of the country may be greatly owing to the configuration of the land. The coast to the northward is deeply indented by gulfs and sounds, and fringed by numerous islands, among which the drift ice is detained until late in the season. This I ; ■! f If.! .'J50 APPENDrX. wr ■ ^ . iMi'-'- ■ melting depresses the summer lieat; while the ice-oovered sea has little ur no etl'ect in tempering the cold during the wintrr. The ftub-soil north of latitude 56° is perpetually tVo7-en, the thaw on the coast not penetrating above three feet, and ai IJear Lake, in latitude G4°, not more than twenty inches. The frozen substratum does not of itself destroy vegetation; for forests flourish on the surface at a distance from the coast, and the brief though warm summer gives birth to a handsome tlora, matures several pleasant fruits, and produces many carices and grasses. The direction of the northern termination of the woods shows the gradual ascent of the isothermal lines (or lines of etjual summer heat) as they recede from Hudson's Hay. On the coast near Churchdl the woods cejisc near the 60th parallel; l)ut at the distance of fifty or sixty miles from the sea their boundary rises rapitUy to the northward, and then takes a nearly straight W.N. W. course, until it reaches Great Hear Lake, in latitude 65°. The most northerly tree is the white spruce; but the canoe birch, which is deciduous, terminates only thirty or forty miles to the southward of it; and we thus possess the means ol ascer- taining how far to the north a summer temperature of 52° ex- tends. But, in fixing this limit, some allowance must be made for altitude, and the nature of the soil. Thus, on the low allu- vial delta of the M'Kenzie, the spruce fur reaches the latitude of 68°; and the banks of that river generally are better wooded than the higher and more rocky tracts which lie to the eastward. The permanence of the frosts when once they set in is a feature of the climate of the fur countries which requires to be noticed here, as it influences the distribution of graminivorous and herbivorous animals* by the ettect that it has upon their supply of food. The carices and grasses have scarcely matured their seeds before they are frozen up for the season ; and their leaves being still full of sap, they continue to aftbrd good pasturage until the spring; and they drop their seeds only when the melting snow has prepared the ground for their reception. The sparrows and buntings profit by this vernal harvest. In like manner the Vac- cineae, Arbuti, and several other berry-bearing shrubs, retain their fruits until the same period, when they yield food to the bears, just awoke from tlieir winter sleep, and to large flocks of geese winging their way to their breeding places. The extent of the woods to tive north is the limit of the range of the black bear, the American fox, the pine martin, the fisher, the lynx, the beaver, several marmots, the American hare, the * Beasts and hinls of prey depending on these tribes for subsistence arc also thus influenced by the powers of vegetation in tiieir distribution. liS*S^:.' .-■:■"■ •overctl RPa tlie. wiiitfi-. iVoAeii, tlic n«l a': liear The froz.eu tor lorests \(1 the briet" ra, matures ind grasses. (loils shows ;s of c([ual ►n the coast J but at the imlary rises ai^^it W.N. atituile 65°. t the canoe forty miles ns ot ascer- j of 52° ex- ist be made he low allu- the latitude tter wooded le eastward. set in is a quires to be aminivorous I upon their ely matured 1 their leaves ituvage until lelting snow parrows and ler the Vac- rubs, retain food to tiie •ge flocks of of the range ti, the fisher, an hare, the ice are also thus APPEXniV. 357 moose St f ■*■ 'I' ' i.- < Canis fatniliaris, Canadensis . . 80. Castor Americanus . - 105. Fiber y.ibetlucus - - 115. Arvicola Pennsylvanicus - - 124. Georyclius triinucroiiatus . - 130. Mus leucopus - - 142. .Sperinopliilus Parryi - - 158. Acjuila (Halicetus) leucocephala , F. B. A. 2. - - - ' - - 15. Falco lanarius. Islandiciis - - 27. sparverius - - 31. -'■' columbarius . . 35. Buteo boiealis • - 50. (Circus) cyaneus - - - 55. Strix otus - - 72. brachyota - - 75. cinorea - - 4 4 • Virginiana, - - 81. nyctea - - 88. funerea - - 92. Tyrannula pusilla - - 144. Merula inigratoria - - 176. Wilsonii - - 182. Ervthaca (.Sialia) arctica . - 209. Sylvicola (Vermivora) peregi-ina - 221. Lake Winipeg. Setophaga ruticilla - - 223. liake Winipeg. Anthus aquaticus - - 231. Fort Reliance. Yireo olivaceus . - 233. River "Winipeg. Bombycilla ganula - - 237. Fort Reliance. Alauda cornuta - . 245. Fort Reliance. Flectrophanes nivalis - - 246. Emberi'/a Canadensis _ - 252. Fort Reliance. Fringilla leucoplirys • - 255. Pennsylvanica - - 256. River Winipeg. Pyrrhula (Corythus) enuclcator - 262. lioxia Icucoptera - - 263. Linaria miner - - 267. Fort Reliance. Coccothraustes (Guiraca) Ludoviciana • 271. liake Winipeg. Agelaius phoeniceus . - 280. Lake Winipeg. xanthocephalus - - 281. Quiscalus versicolor - - 285. Lake W^inipeg. Scolecophagus ferriigineus . - 286. Fort Reliance. Garrulus Canadensis . . 296. Picus pubescens - - 307. m », APPENDIX. 359 ke Winipeg. cc Winipeg. t Reliance, er Winipeg. t Reliance, t Reliance. t Reliance. er Winipeg. •t Reliance, ke Winipeg. ke Winipeg. ie W^inipeg. •t Reliance. I Picus varius ... tridactylus arcticus - - . Colaptes auratus, Swainson Hiiundo lunifVons Caprimulgus (Chordeiles) Virginianus Alcedo alcjon - - . Tetrao Canadensis Tetrao (Lagopus) saliceti Eupestrus, Sabine (Centrocercus) phasianellus Columba (Ectopistes) migratoria Chadrius vociferus pluvialis - . - inelodus Strepsilas interpres Gnis Americana Canadensis Recurvirostra Americana Fringa alpina - . . Doriglassii Totanus flavipes Rallus Carolinus Phalaropus Wilsonii fulicarius Fulica Americana Podiceps cornutus Larus argentaliiides Lestris pomarina Anas clypeata - - . acuta - - . boschas - - . creeca Mareca Americana Oidemia perspicillata Fuligula marila rufitorques rubida Clangula albeola, vulgaris Anser albifrons hypcrboreus Canadensis Colymbus septentrionalis Lucioperca Americana, F. B. A. 3. Lake Winipeg. River Winipeg. 309. 311. 313. 314. Fort Reliance. 331. 33r. Lake Winipeg. 339. 346. 351. 536. 361. 363. 368. 369. 371. 372. 373. 375. 384. 379. 390. 403. 405. 407. 404. 411. 417. 429. 439. 441. 442. 443. 445. 448. 453. 454. 455. 458. 456. 466. 467. 468. 476. 10. 41 i . *:#' M If-, •i-^l 360 APPENDIX. '• ^- V 1 Salmo namay'ush Coregonus albus tullibee 179. 311. 309. 311. 248. Hiodon chrysopsis Gadus (Lota) maculosus These specimens were all carefully prepared by Mr. Richard King, surgeon to the expedition, who deserves the thanks of zoologists for devoting so much time and labour to the elucidation of the science. As it would exceed the limits of an Appendix to give a full account, or even a cursory notice, of each species, we shall merely say a few words respecting those which are objects of chase to the Indian hunter, either for food or for the sake of their fur, adding a few brief remarks on the specimens of the other species wlien they serve for the elucidation of doubtful points of their history. Say's Bat. Vespertilio subulatue. (Say.) F. B. A. 1. p. 3. The specimen resembles the one described in the Fauna-Boreali Americana so much, that we cannot but consider it as the same species, though it has a shorter tail; and the comparative dimen- sions of some of the other members also ditter a little, as the fol- lowing table siiuws: :'U n . ' King' s Sp. Richard- son's. Say's. Inch. lln. Inch. lln. Inch. lin. Total length Length ot head and body 3 H 3 4 2 11 o H 1 10 head - 0 8 0 9 — tail - 1 H 1 6 1 21 Height of ear 0 7 0 8 Breadth of ditto 0 H 0 4 — Height of tragus 0 4 0 41 — Spread of wings 8 6 10 0 Length of thumb 0 0 21 — The discrepancies in tlie dimensions may be partly reconciled by supposing the body of the specimen taken on Captain Back's expedition to have been rather overstutted; wliilc the one got by Sir J. Fn'inklin's party may have been allowed to shrink too much. Mr. Say's example must have been a young individual, if the identity of the species be granted. Say's bat, which is closely Ir. Richard J thanks of elucidation Appendix to species, we are objects the sake ot' nens ot* the of doubtful A. 1. p. 3. Luna-Boreali as the same itive dimen- ;, as the fol- Say's. Inch. lin. 2 IJ 1 2i y reconciled l)tain Back's e one j^ot by k too much, idual, if the h is closely Al'i'JiNDlX. 361 allied to the F. pijnatrelUos and cinurginutuii of Europe, has an extensive range, having been found on the Arkansas, at Great (Slave Lake, and in the intermediate district. Ameuican Black Bkau. Ursus Jlincricanus. (Pallas.) F. B. A. l.p. 14. This bear, which is the only one of the genus that produces a valuable fur, may be readily known by a pale yellowish-brown patch on each side of its long and slightly arched nose. It feeds chiefly on fruit and other vegetable matters; and is by no means a ferocious animal, seldom injuring man except in self-defence, and shuiuiing the combat whenever a way of retreat is open to it. It climbs trees or scales precipices with great facility; and, being very wary, it is not easily killed in the summer. But its extreme caution sometimes proves the cause of its destruction; for when it hears a noise and apprehends danger, it stands upon its hind legs every now and then to look over the bushes, and, by thus showing its position, enables the skilful hunter to make his ap- proach. It is, however, much more frequently taken in its winter retreat; and being always fat when hybernating, and having its fur then in prime order, it is a valuable prize to the Indian, who, from long practice, acquires an extraordinary skill in discovering its den, by in«lications that would attract no notice from the eye of an inexperienced person. Jiut though the native hunter never neglects an o|)portunity of killing a bear, he deems it an honour to be related to an animal possessing so much strength and saga- city; and before he proceeds to t'.an antl cut up the carcass, he sliows it the utmost respect, and begs a thousand pardons for the liberty lie is about to take with his grandmother. The fat of the bear resembles hog's lard, and is generally considered as a deli cacy by the Indians; but few Europeans like its strong flavour. Barren-Ground Bear. Ursus Arctos? F. B. A. 1. p. 21. This bear, which closely resembles the brown bear of Eu- ittpe, and is probably the same species, frecjuents the barren lands lying to the north of the wooded country; and in the summer timeHiaunts the shores of the Arctic sea. it feeds upon roots and berries, and also upon such animals as it can surprise, or that it finds dead — being much more carnivoious than the preceding species. One that was killed by Sir John Franklin's party in Hathurst's Inlet had a seal, a marmot and many roots in ilN stomach. Tiiis boar attains a greater si/x' than the black l)('ar, and is dreaded by the Indians on account of its strength 46 1 '/.i m ri 'V r .1. ' '1 ,S()2 APPENDIX. and coui-aj^o. ft is sa'd Ihat it will attack man whon impelled by iumger, but all tliat \vq saw fled tVoni us as lust they could. Grisly Bear. n Ursiis Ferox. (Lewis and Clark.) F. B. A. 1. p. 24. This is a still more carnivorous animal than either of the pre- ceding species, thou. 'f'f its proy in the water; but entirely resembles the pine-marten in its habits. Its greater size, the colour ant! coarseness of its fur, distinguish it from the latter. Its skins arc called "wood shacks" at the Hudson's Bay Company's sales. The Skunk. Mephitis Americana. (Sabine.) F. li. A. 1. p. 55. A full, bushy tail, long black hair, with a broad white stripe along each side, give the skunk a pleasing appearance; but tne odour of the fluid it discharges when in danger is so disgusting that fe\^ people can summon resolution to approach it. The early French settlers in Canada evinced their abhorrence of this (otherwise harmless) animal, by terming it "Penfant du diable.^^ Clothes tainted by tne fluid it secretes are but imperfectly puri- fied after they have been buried in the earth for some days. The skunk is said to hybernate under the snow. It runs slowly; and, but for its peculiar means of defence, would be easily de- stroyed by its numerous enemies. Dogs hunt it eagerly; but when they are just on the point of seizing it, a single discharge of its li(iuor-puts them to flight. The Canada Otter. Lulra Canadensis. (Sabine.) F. B. A. 1. p. 57. The habits of the otter a'. • the same in the New Woe id as in the Old; but there being a ditference in tlie proportional length of their tails, and in some olhei' respects, they are considered as distinct species. The fur of the ('anada otter, which is much more valuable than that of its European rejiresentative, resem bles tiiat of the beaver, and is ap])lied to the same purposes. A single skin is worth from one t(t two guineas. The otter is found up to the G(jth>Dr Grth parallel of latitude. The Wolf. Liipics Occidcntaiis. (Rich.) F. B. A. 1. p. GO Wolves inhabit the whole country north of Canada, being, as (S natural, most numerous in the districts which nourish the largest herds of the ruminating animals on which they prey. The countenance and general appearance of the American woK ditters greatly from those of its European representative, and its fur is very dissimilar; but it is a difticult s.tinct species, or merely a variety produced by climate and other local causes. The Indian dog dift'ers also in the thickness of its furry coat, as well as in its aspect, from the sheph.erd's dog, which is the analogous European n. j. indeed, APVKNIIIX. 'Mi-y the wolves anil (he domestic do'jjs of \\w j'tir rountries are so like each other, that it is not easy 300 APPENDIX. W^H kinds of Hsli. Its I'ur chanf!;es from j>;ray to white in the winter; but, thou;ers. Coloured individuals, named "bhie" or "sooty'* foxes, are frci^ueiitly seen even in the middle ol winter. Canada Lynx. i: iHr fthr '.X I' Felis Canademis. ■ p. 101. (Geoffroy.) F. B. a. 1. This animal, which is clothed with a very fine thick fur, in- habits the wooded districts, where it preys chieily on the Ameri- can hare. It is commonly ternxed "the cat" by the traders, and is named Peeshoo by the Crees. Temminck considers it as spe- cifically the same with the lynx of the north of Europe, which he calls Fetin boreulis. American Beaver. Castor Americanus. . A. 1„ p. 105. (F. CuviER.) F. H. The beaver's skin is the staple commodity of the fur coun- tries, and forms the standard of value in traflickinj; with tlie na- tives. The conseciuence is, that no animal is more persecuted; and as the admirable works it executes betrays its abode, it is not surprising; that it should be j>reatly reduced in numbers. Its fiesh is much prized by the natives as an article of food — a roasted beaver beinj. (he prime dish on their feast days. As the food of the beaver c visists in a j^reat measure of the bark of deciduous trees, — particularly of the poplar, birch, and willow — it is evident that its range must be restrained within the limits of the woods. It follows, however, the trees on the banks of the Mackenzie to a high latitude. The beaver may be consi- dered as the civil engineer among quadrupeds; and the skill with which it selects the proper situation for its dam, so that it may be most ettective, witn the least labour, for Hooding a large extent of ground, and keeping up a proper supply of water dur- ing the winter, is very surprising, especially when we consider that the dam is often at a very considerable distance from the beaver-lutuse. It also shows great providence in excavating a number of vaults on the margin of its pond, that it may have places of retreat in the event of its dwelling being assailed. Its habits, however, liaving been thoroughly studied by the Indian hunter, its skill is no match lor his perseverance: and but feu- the care taken by the Hudson's Bay ('ompany to preserve the ArPENT)IX. MO? he winter; ill quality •tes of tliis icr Arctic foxes, are ', B. A. 1. ick fur, in- the Ameri- riulers, and s it as spe- rope, which ER.) F. B. ie fur coim- with the na- persecuted ; abode, it is jmbcrs. Its of food — a s. As the the bark of ul willow — in the limits le banks of y be consi- id the skill n, so that it ding a large water dur- ive consider ce trom the xcavating a it may have isailed. Its the Indian and but for Mvscrve the varions ilistrirts for four or live yt'ars in succession, the animal would soon become very scarce. Fifty thousand beaver skins arc annually imported into !JiOndon from North America. Tin: Musquash. Fiber zibctliicKs. (Cuvier.) F. B. A. 1. p. 115. The musk-rat, mus(iuash, watsuss, or wachusk, — for it has all these names, — resembles the beaver in some respects, |)articu- larly in its fur; but it has a long tail, which, insteid of being depressed or spread out horizontally, is compressed and taper- ing. The musfiuash is very prolific, producing three litters in a season, and breeding at a very early age. Every swamp or pond with grassy borders is inhabited by if, up to the shores of tlie Arctic sea; and notwithstanding the vast numbers that are an- nually destroyed by its numerous eriemies, there is no danger of its being extirpatecl. The import of its skiris into Great Britain in one year amounts to nearly half a million. Its fur is employed in the manufacture of hats, and though inferior in ([uality to the beaver fur, is very generally substituted for it by the hat-makers. American Field-mouse. Mas Iciicopus. A. 1. p. 14'2. (Rafinesque.) F. B. This mouse, which is the I'epresentative of tiie Mus aylvalicus of FiUrope is very abundant in the fur countries, where it takes the jjlace of the domestic mouse, speedily establishing itself in every new fur post that is erected. It multiplies rapidly, as there is no domestic rat to keep down its numbers; though that oflice is occasionally performed by the ermine, as we have al- ready mentioned. The American Hare. Lcpiis Jimericanus. B. A. l.p. 217. (Erxleben. ) F. This animal, which is named "wawpoos"by the Cree Indians, and the "jabbit" by the resident traders at Hudson's Bay, is very plentiful throughout the wooded country. The bark of the willow constituting its chief winter food, it resides mostly at tiiat season on the borders of lakes and in swamps, where that shrub and dwarf birch grow. It is particularly abundant on the alluvial banks of the Mackenzie up to the 68th parallel, and furnishes the chief winter support of the Hare Indians, whose country does not nourish many of the larger quadiupeds. It is taken generally by snares set in the paths it makes through tlie snow. Its habits arc more like those of the rabbit than like the hare of ■&m ■f« s 368 Al'l'KNDlX. ; J r'iil f Kurnpe, bul it duu» nut burrow, tlkiiu^li it occasional ly isfekis loi »hcltei- in a hollow troc. Its fur, wliiili \» browniish abuvo in suniiner, chunj;os to snuw-vvliite in winter. The roLAii IIakk. Lcpus glucinlin. (Leach.) j). 221. F. B. A. 1. This hare may be considered as tlie American representative of tiie Jjcpuii vurinbllin o( the Alpine and northern districts oi' Kurope, but it is on the whole a stouter animal, and exhibits some peculiar characters, which induced Dr. I-fed venison. When lean, however, whicli it is for a considerable part of the year, it is neither nutritious nor palatable, the meat of a lean musk-ox being, alone, of inferior (piality, of all the ruminating quadrupeds of the country. The female reindeer has horns as well as the male, though they are smaller and mucli less palmat- cd: they are also shed at a diH'erent time. The skins oi six or seven young reindeer, killed in the autumn, form, when |)roperly prepared and sewed together, a robe or blanket constantly used by the northern Indians in winter. It is both light ami warm, and exceedingly well adapted to the clin»ate, aftbrding a sulVicient covering for a man in the coldest night. The Wapiti. Cervus strons^yloccros. (Sciiueber.) F. B. A. l.'p. 250. This animal, the wawaskeesh of the Crees, inhabits the plains of the Saskatchewan, the neidibouring country, the banks of the Columbia, and New Caledonia. It is the American representa- tive of the red deer, and though it exceeds it considerably in size, it was long considered to be the same species. There are, at present, some very tine wapiti in the Zoological (iardens. The flesh of this deer is considered as much inferior to that of the bison or moose deer; but its hide makes excellent dressed leather. There are several other species of deer, and an ante- lope, on the prairie lands of the Saskatchewan and Columbia ri- vers; but the three that we have specified are the only ones that interest the Indian tribes with whom Captain Back had to do. The North American deer arc still very imperfectly known to naturalists, and the specific identities of the moose deer and tlie elk, and of the reindeer of the new and old continents, have 47 '■'".•^i 'J ■ '^'i-i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■^■M 12.5 U£ M |2.2 1^ 1 1.25 II 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► "% I V -* Photographic Sciences Corporation m W .\ :\ ^ 6^ 23 WIST MAIN STtEET WEBSTER, N.Y, 14580 (716) 872-4503 0 % ^ ^^* ^ o^ 370 APPENDIX. Hi*- ' ^ i m iff.: ■ ■' .; . ■m- RPi^'-'- I'' 'm- been by no means satisfactorily established. It is probable that further investigation may prove the barren-groimu reindeer to be a distinct species from that which inhabits the woody country. Rocky Mountain Goat. Capra Americana. p. 268. F. B. A. 1. This very interesting animal inhabits the higher parts of the mountains from California up to the 65th parallel. It is most remarkable for bearing a very fine wool, well adapted for the manufacture of shawls. The specimens that have been brought home have interested the wool -staplers very much; but it will be difficult to procure a sufficient quantity for the purposes of commerce. Rocky Mountain Sheep. Ovis Montana. (Desm.) p. 271. F. B.A.I. This animal exceeds in size every variety of the domestic sheep, and equals any of them in the quality of its mutton. It is not clothed with wool, but with a close brittle hair, like the reindeer. The ram bears very large horns. MusK-Ox. Ovihos moschatus. (Blainville.) F. B. A. l.p. 275. This animal inhabits the barren lands, and the most northern of Parry's Islands, but retires to the verge of the woods in the depth of winter. It feeds, like the reindeer, chiefly on lichens; and the meat of a well-fed cow is well tasted and juicy; but that of a lean cow and of the bull is strongly iinpregnatod with a dis- agreeable musky flavour, so as to be palatable only to a very hun- gry man. The musk-ox does not now exist in Greenland; and though extinct also in Siberia, bones either of the American spe- cies, or of one very similar to it, have been found there. American Bison. Bos ^mericanus. (Gmelin.) p. 279. F. B. A. 1. This animal has lately become well known in England under the name of bonassus; and specimens exist in the Zoological Gardens, and in several parks. Its range in the fur countries is restricted between the 105th meridian and the Rocky Mountains, and it does not go beyond the 62nd parallel of latitude; but it is on the prairie lands only that the numberless herds noticed by authors are to be seen. The pemmican, which is so useful, and 5V*i~r: - . Ii ,, ; ! (M ••>J m APPENDIX. 371 •obablc that reindeer to dy country. \ B. A. 1. parts of the It is most pted for the jeen brought but it will be purposes oi ) F. B.A.I. the domestic ,9 mutton. It hair, like the ^.A.i.p.srs. Imost northern le woods in the ;fly on lichens; [juicy; but that .Udwithadis- to a very hun- reenland; and American spe- there. 1) F. B. A. 1. (England under Ithe Zoological jfur countries is :ky Mountains, titude; but it is Irds noticed by so useful, and in fact almost essential, to the traveller through the fur countries, is made principally of the meat of the bison. The fleshy parts of the hind quarters are cut into very thin slices, dried in the sun, and pounded. Two parts of the pounded meat are then mixed with one of melted fat, and then packed into a bag formed of the hide of the animal. Each bag weighing 90lbs. is called a " tau- one bag of reaw by the Canadian voyagers, and, in fact, onli pemmican is generally made from each bison cow that is killed. Two pounds of this kind of food is suflicientfor the daily support of a labouring man; though, when the voyagers first commence upon it for the season, they will each consume three pounds or more. In the spring they generally boil the young shoots of the Epilabnim angustifolium along with it; and the Orkney men in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, mix it with flour or oatmeal, rendering it much more palatable. The best pemmican is made of finely pounded meat, mixed with marrow, and it is further improved by the addition of dried berries or currants. If kept from the air, it may be preserved sound for several years; and from its great portability, it might be used with great advan- tage in provisioning troops tnat have to make forced marches. It may be eaten raw, or mixed with a little water, and boiled; and, although it is not much relished by those who taste it for the first time, the voyageur soon becomes reconciled to it; and, if he can only add to it the luxury of tea, he requires nothing else for breakfast, and dinner, or supper; the two last meals being gene- rally conjoined on a voyage in the fur countries. The Bald Eagle. Aqtiila leticocephala. F. B. A. 2. p. 15. The bald or white-headed eagle resides all the year in every part of the United States; but visits the fur countries only in the summer, arriving there the first of the migratory birds. The comparative lengths of the quill feathers vary in difterent indi- viduals. Mr. Audubon states, that the secontl quill is largest: in a specimen obtained on Sir John Franklin's expedition, it was the fourth quill; and in the one now brought home by Mr. Kin it is the third that has that distinction. s» Pigeon Hawk. Fulco columbariiis. F. B. A. 2. p. 35. In some specimens the second, in others, the third, quill ex- ceeds the otners in length: in Mr. King's, these feathers are ecjual to each other; and the other primaries stand ;:s to the length, in the following order: 4th, 1st, 5th Gth. I; ■'".♦8 .Iff! 1^ 372 APPENDIX. liONo-KARED Owl. Strixotus. ¥. B. A. 2. p. 7'< 1^ ><. The specimen, tbough in complete plumage, is very small, measuring only 14^ inches from the point of the beak to the tip of the tail. The latter member is as long as that of an ordinary individual, whose total length is IT inches. Little Tyrant Fly Catcher. 2. p. Tyrannula pusilla. 144. F. B. A. A bird of this species, obtained on Sir John Franklin's second expedition, at Carlton House, is fi'^ured in the Fauna Boreali- Americana (t. 46. f. I.); and Mr. Swainson who had obtained a specimen also from Mexico, points out in that work its differences from the Musicapa querula of Wilson, or M. acadica of, Gmelin and Bonaparte, which it very nearly resembles, the plumage of both being precisely similar. T. pusilla has a shorter bill, and shorter wings than querula, and there is a difference in the com- parative length of their quill feathers. In the latter, the first quill IS equal to the fifth, (or to the fourth, according to Audubon), and the second and third are longest in pusilla: tne first is rather shorter than the sixth, and the fourth is visibly longer than the second, though the third or longest, very little exceeds either of them. The specimen brought home by Mr. King differs from the iferred to above, solely in being about a quarter of an inch one rei longer from the point of the bill to tue end of the tailj but the proportions of the otlier parts are the same. The Arctic Blce-dird. Sialia arctica. t. 39. F. B. a. 2. p. 209. slj ' i:*^' '-ii, A single bird of this species was killed by Mr. Dease at Great Bear Lake, on Sir John Franklin's second expedition. Since then, the same gentleman has sent me four specimens from New Caledonia, where it is pietty common, and is known to the natives by the name of " Thlee-ooday." Mr. King's specimen proves that it goes as far east, on the shores of Great Slave Lake, as the 105th meridian. All the individuals that I have seen agree ex- actly in the colours of their plumage, its well as in other respects, with the one figured in the Fauna Boreali-Americana. In one specimen only, the first quill feather almost equals the second, but in none does it exceed it, as is the case with Sialia Wilsonii. APPENDIX. 37J Tennessee Worm -eater. rermivora peregrina. F. B. A. 2. p. 221. t. 42. f. 2. Mr. Audubon says that this species is very rare in the United States; but it would appear to be more common in the fur coun- tries, having been found by Sir John Franklin's party, as well as by Captain Back's, in bom instances in the 53d parallel of lati- tude. Yellow-tailed Gnat-catcher. A. 2. p. Setophagi rulicilla. 223. F. B. This singularly coloured and lively little bird is very common in the Brazds, and in the islands of the Caribbean Sea. It arrives within the limits of the United States early in March; and in May reaches the Saskatchewan, where it may be seen sporting about among the lower branches of the large willows that grow in that swampy district. Reddish-brown Titlark. Austms aqnaticus. p. 231. t. 44. F. B. A. 2. Mr. Audubon informs us, that this titlark is met with in every part of the United States; but does not breed there. It was seen on Sir John Franklin's second expedition on the Saskatchewan, and Mr. King obtained two specimens at Fort Reliance on the 3d of June. It is probable that it breeds in the latter quarter, oi still farther north. Tree Buntling. Emberiza canadensis. F. B. A. 2. p. 252. Three specimens of this buntling were obtained by Mr. King at Fort Reliance, which is farther north than it was previously known to range; but it most probably goes to the liinits of the woods. Its winter quarters ai'e, according to Mr. Audubon, in the United States, north of the Ohio. Rosb-breasted Grosbeak. Cocothraustes Ludoviciana. B. a. 2. p.'271. F. Mr. King obtained a specimen of this charming bird on Lake Winipeg, and has made a note of its irides being red. Audubon and Wnson state them to be hazel. m ;{7I APPENDIX. The Spotted Grousk. fir: : * •iff. • A t V ' ■ Tclrao canadensis. 347. t. G2. F. B. A. 2. p. This bird ranges from the northern districts of the United States to the extremities of the woods on the banks of the Mack- enzie (lat. 68°); and from the facility with which it can be killed at certain seasons when game is scarce, it is of great service to the Indian hunter. It inhabits thick forests, and particularly swampy places where the black spruce grows, and on this account it is called by the Canadian voyagers perdrix de savanne. It feeds upon the leaves of the spruce, by which its dark coloured flesh acquires a strong resinous taste. Franklin's grouse, which inhabits the acclivities of the Rocky Mountains, and the country to the westward of that ridge, difters from the spotted grouse in the twelve upper tail coverts; being broadly tipped with white, and, according to Mr. Douglas, its egg is also different. The Willow Grouse. Lagopiis saUceti. F. B. A. 2. p. 351. This ptarmigan is of still more importance to the Indian popu- lation of the fur countries than the preceding grouse, on account of its vast numbers suflicing for the support of many of the tribes for a considerable part of the year. It inhabits the barren grounds and the summits of the rocky hills in the jody country, during the summer season, seeking shelter in the woods in winter; and it is in the latter part of the year that it is most plentifully taken. Ten thousand have been caught by nets or snares in one winter at a single fur post. Tir"^ Hock Ptarmigan. Lagopus rupestria. — t. 64. F. B. A. 2. This species is more particularly an inhabitant of the barren lands than the last, never coming into the woods except in the winter, and even then only for a short way. It is very abundant in the districts it frequents. Another species, named by Dr. Leach Lagopus miitus, visits, according to Captain James Ross, the peninsula of Boothia, along with this and the willow grouse, but the rock ptjirmigan is the most abundant in the islands of the Arctic sea. There is a smaller ptarmigan than any of these, pe- culiar to the Rocky Mountains, which may be known by the whole of its tail feathers being white, whence it has received the specific appellation of Lagopus leucurus. API'KNDIX. 375 A. 2. p. the United the Mack- Ein be killed service to particularly Lhis account ivanne. It •k coloured ouse, which the country !(! grouse in witn white, at. L. 2. p. 351. ndian popu- , on account of the tribes rren grounds ntry, during winter; and ully taken. one winter B. A. 2. p. ■ the barren iccept in the ry abundant med by Dr. ames Ross, low grouse, ands of the of these, pe- own by the received the Sharp-tailed Grousi:. Ccnli'occreus phammeUna. F. B. A. s2. p. 3G1. This bird is abundant in tlie fur countries up to the Gist pa- rallel, both in the prairies and among the woods. Its tlesli is su- perior to that of any of tiie preceding ptarmigan or grouse, but not so tender or white as that of the rumed grouse, whicii is also plentiful as liigh as the 56th parallel. Other birds of this genus inhabit the plains of the Columbia, but those we have mentionetl are the most serviceable to the Indian tribes that inliabit the dis- tricts through which Captain Back passed. Passenger Pigeox. Colurnba mlgraloria. V. B. A. 2. n. 363. This pigeon, which breeds in almost incredible numbers in some parts of the United States, visits the fur countries up to the 62nd parallcl'of latitude, but not in such quantities any where t(» the northward of Lake Winipeg, as to contribute mucli to the support of the natives: at the south end of that lake, for a month or two in summer, when the floods have overflowed the low lands, a few families of Indians subsist upon this bird. It visits the north after the termination of the breeding season in the United States. Captain James Ross saw a single pigeon of this species as high as latitude 73 J° in Baffin's Bay: it flew on boai-d the Victory during a storm, and must have strayed from a great dis- tance. The wind, as we find by a reference to Sir John Ross's narrative, blew Irom the north-east at the beginning of the gale, shifting afterwards to the eastward. As the Victory was to the northward of the island of Disco at the time, if the bird came in either of these directions, it must have taken flight from the northern part of Greenland, but it is not likely to have found food on that barren coast. The Piping Plover. Charadrius melodus. (Bonass.) A specimen of this pretty plover was obtained by Mr. King on Lake Winipeg, and that piece of water is probably ..s nortliern limit, as it was not observed on the former expeditions. It is consequently a more southern bird than the CharadriuH semipul- ma'VA', which was seen in abundance by Sir John Franklin's par- ty during the whole route, and by Captain James Ross in the peninsula of Boothia, where it passes the summer in the marshes. The piping plover was described at first by Wilson as a variety of the common ringed plover, but in afterwards figuring tlie semi- palmated plover under the same name, he intimated his suspicion &^ §1 ■m E0i 376 APPKNDIX. ji!.J: fiii'-y. of its being a iliHtiiict species. Subsequent authors have pointed out its peculiar characters, and the two species, together with a third named Charudrius ffUnonii, and very nearly resembline them, are well described and iigured in Mr. Audubon's splendid work. The piping j)lover breeds as far to the southward as the keys of Florida, and though it exhibits every where nearly the same plumage, we shall here subjoin a description of Mr. King's specimen, as it is tlie only one that has been brought from me fur countries. Colour.— Bill, black towards the point, orangce at its tip. Upper plumage, lif^lit-hrownish pray: that is, of ii pale tint, intermediate oe- twcen the yellovvisli-sray ami light broccoli-brown of Werner. Fore- head, checKH. throat, the wiiole under-pliimage and sides of the rump, white; the while being continued round the neck, so as to Ibrm a nar- row ring behind the najic. A narrow black band extends between the anterior angles of the orbits, behind the white of thc'forehead; and there is a black patch on each shoulder, with a narrow connecting line cross- ing the breast; but in this specimcjn, the black does not cross the neck above, as it occasionally docs, on the tips of a single row of feathers, having ))robably worn off. The cjuills, greater coverts, and middle tail feathers, are blacKi>li-brovvn; but the middle of the shails and part of (he inner webs of llie former are white; thai, colour spreading on the fourth and succeeding primaries to their outer webs; tlie tips of the wing coverts also exhibit various derrecs of white. Tertiaries most- ly like the back; hut their tips arc darker, the extreme edge being soil- ed 'lite. Outer tail feathers entirely white; the next i)air white at ' .: extremities, the others showing successively less white, and the > ralones, as has been mentioned, entirely brown. foRM. — Outer web of the feet notched, and including only the first joint of the outer toe; and merely two thirds of the corresponding pha- lanx of the middle toe. Inner web scarcely perceptible. lin. Inch. lin. - Length of middle toe and ? „ q, ^ nail - - J 0 »4 Length of bill above - 0 6 bill to rectus - 0 7f Inch. Length from tip of bill ) ~ to end of tail J Length of tail folded wing - tarsus 2 4 0 3 m The Mallard. ,9nas boschas. (Auct.) F. B. A. 2. p. 442. This duck is stated by Mr. Audubon to be rare on the Atlan- tic coast of the United States, but to be more numerous in the interior, and to breed as far south as Kentucky and Indiana. It is very generally diffused through the fur countries up to the northern extremity of the woods, and is the weightiest and best duck that resorts thither. Of the true ducks (the Jlnatinx of Swainson), the shoveller passes through the fur-countries in about equal numbers with the mallard, but breeds farther north, on the barren grounds. The gadwall and widgeon breed in all parts of the woody counti'y, but in smaller numbers than the preceding ^m .■ '^ APPENDIX. :177 ones; vvliilu tlic <>;rccn-wiiigc(l knil, on tliu other lianil, in uuuli more numerous, and breeds on tlie banks of every river and lake, both in the woody and barren diHtricts. The blue-win;ht by the Indians as the liarbinger of plenty, for the };eese and ducks .shortly foUow, and abundance reigns in the encampments of the natives for a few weeks. The trumpeter swan, even on its first arrival, is gene- rally seen in pairs, seldom in flocks, and it frequents eddies under water-falls, and other pieces of open water, until the general breaking up of the ice on the riveis and lakes. It is diflicult of approach, and is most fre(|uently killed at a long shot by a sin A. ; K' Canada Goose, ^nser Canadensis. F. B. A. 2. p. 468. The Canada goose, named " outarde" by the early French travellers in the uir countries, and alsr by the Canadian voyageurs of the present day, breeds sparingly in the interior of the United States as low as the Ohio, and in the state of Maine near the Atlantic coast. It winters, Mr. Audubon tells us, in vast flocks in the savannas of Florida and the Arkansas, and commences its northward migration from the middle and western districts with the first melting of the snows, that is, between the 20th of March and the end of April. Major Long informs us that the great migration of geese commences at Engineer Cantonment on the Missouri (lat. 41 5°) on the 22nd of February, and terminates in the latter end of March. The Canada goose breeds in every part of the lur countries, but has not been seen on the shores of the Arctic Sea. It arrives in flocks when the snow melts, and soon afterwards spreads over the country in pairs. The foUow- APPF.XniX. .)7.'» ■/": 2. p. 41)4. iits the fur I Iiuliiins a* ,itly ro\l«>w, ven for a few al, is gcne- aUWkh under the general 1 difficult of t by a single e vpluc, tlie after under- irly eciual to ter swan arc bird as the 2. p. 465. s common to of Hudson's Boothia, and e latest of the s long in the Fort Frank- 2. p. 468. jarly French ian voyageurs )( the United aine near the [in vast flocks jmmences its Idistricts with iOth of March Ihat the great iment on the terminates in leds in every the shores of |w melts, and The follow- ing tabic of the online: y dates of its arrival at particular places gives a correct ideu of the comiiieiiccnient of spring in the dif- ferent jMirallels. PonotnnpiiKliene, Lnke Huron, ('lunborliuid House, Suskiit, - — Fort ('hipewyun - - — — Resolution, Slave Lake - — — Piiiterprise - - — — Franklin, Great Bear Lake — Lat. 44!oN. Marrh 21. April 2. — 54^' IM. April H. — 5HJ--'N.' — 20. — Gli'N. May 1. 641^N. — 12. G4J^N. — 7. to 12. — 25. — 6. — 20. — 20. In the month of July the old birds moult, and may be seen in every river, followed by their young brood, not fully feathered and incapable of flying. When pursued they dive repeatedly, but are soon fatigued, and then they make for the shore; though, unless they can reach a swamp where they can hide themselves among the long grass, they fall an easy prey to the hunter, who linocks them on the head with a stick. A canoe is soon loaded at this sport; and I have, on several occasions, procured a supper for a large party in a few minutes. As soon as the ground begins to harden with the autumnal frosts, and one or two falls of s.. y approach tlie Wiift'r, iiiid cross tlu* lurj^er lakes mostly at pari itulur places. It is siiiirular to s«'e how Hock after Hock passes between the same islands, or through the same gap in the woods, each followintj; as nearly as possible the track of its |)re»lecesi,>or. At some of the posts |rreat quantities of j^eese are salted for winter use; but this method of preherving them is a very bad one, a salted goose be- ing both dry and tough. LAVviiiiNa Goose, ^nacr albifrosn. F. B. A. 2. p. 460. This is a smaller goose than the preceding; and, in the com- Karativc length of it, and form of its bill, it more nearly resem- les our domestic goose, or its wild original. The laughin;; goose travels in great flocks through the fur countries, eight or ten days later than the Hrst appearance of the Canada goose, and breeds on the coasts and islands of the Arctic Hea, north of the 6rth parallel of latitude. Its call is much like the prolonged laugh of a man. Captain James Ross did not see this goose on the penin- sula of Doothia, and it does not appear to be common on the coast of Hudson's Hay. The autumn migration southwards of the same goose commences early in September; niid the return of this bird at that season to the liir districts is often the first in- dication of winter having begun within the arctic circle, [t pass- es on towards the United States, inatlvance of the Canada goose; and Mr. Audubon says that it arrives before the latter in Ken- tucky, where many of the species winter; but many also, he is convinced, go entn-ely to the southward of the United States' boundary. The same gentleman infor:iis us that this species leaves its winter quarters a fortnight sooner than the ('anada goose, which is difterent from the order of its appearance on the banks of the Saskatchewan. The flesh of the laughing goose is superior to that of the Ciinada goose. Snow Goose. Anscr hyperborcus. F. B. A. 2. p. 467. This beautiful goose has exactly the gait and form of the pre- ceding; and is very little larger, when full grown. The two species, according to Audubon, (juit their winter quarters, in the United States, at the same time; but the snow goose generally makes its first appearance in the fur countries a few days later than the laughing goose, though the main flocks of both pass at the same time. 'I'he snow goose breeds in vast numbers on the borders of the small lakes near the coasts of the Arctic Sea, on .u APPENDIX. JrtI v. irt'S. TIh' )pioacli the placi'H. It II tlic 9am»! )lh»winK a>* Home «»f tl»e *c; but this 1 go«»sc be- p. 46G. n the com- ;arly lesein i^hin;:; goose , or ten days , anil breeds 1 of the 6rtl» ged laugli ol n the pcnin- nnon on the )utliwanls of d the return I the first in- le. It pass- anada goose; tter in Ken \y also, lie is jited States' this species the Canada iraiicc on the ling goose is p. 467. In of tl»c pre- . The t\yo I quarters, in jse generally |w days later both pass at ibers on the Irctic Sea, on the islands of the same, and also on Melville Peninsula. In its journey northwards, it reaches the .l-lth parallel on tlie I ih of April; the .'irth, on the i2;1(h of the same month; the ()4tii parallel, on the 2()th of May; and its breeding stations, in the(>9th, by the beginning of June, when the snow is only melted from some ele- vated s|)ots. The snow goose when fat is a very excellent binl, vicing with the laughing goose in its (|ualitie9 as an article of diet. HuTcniNs' GoosB. Jinser Ilulchinaii. F. B. A. 2. p. 470. This bird, in the colours of its plumage, strongly resembles the Canada g APPENDIX. Entrema Edwardsii Thlew-ee-choli. VlOLARE^. Viola blanda pubescens Canadensis Muhlenbergiana DROSGRACEiE. Parnassia palustris PoLYGALEiE. Polygala Seneka Caryophylle^.. Silene acaulis Lychus apetala Spergula nodosa Labraea uliginosa Stellaria borealis (Jiigelot/^J stricta (Rich.) laeta Arenaria lateriflora peploides Cerastiuin viscosum alpinum arveiise - Geranaiace^. Geranium Carolinianum - Fort William. Dog River. Ditto. River Winipeg. Slave Lake. Saskatchewan to Slave Lake. River Winipeg. Thlew-ee-choh. Gulf of Boothia. Saskatchewan. Missinippi River. River Winipeg. Thlew-ee-choh. Lake Superior. Gulf of Boothia. River Winipeg. Thlew-ee-choh. River Winipeg. Saskatchewan. El 'tii^' LEGUMINOSiE. Phaca astragalina - Oxytropis uralensis ^ Astragalus hypoglottis Vicia Americana Lathyrus ochroleuars RoSACEiE. Dryas integrifolia - Sieversia triflora Fragaria Virginiana Potentilla arguta anserina hirsuta Thlew-ee-choh. Slave Lake. Ditto. River Winipeg. Lake Winipeg. Saskatchewan. Ditto. Slave Lake. Thlew-ee-choh. Slave River. Ditto. Saskatchewan River. Slave River. Saskatchewan River. '"^' M^W APPENDIX. 387 peg- ive Lake. slave Lake. Lskatchewan. sr. T. Potentilla Vahliana nivea tridentata Amelanchier sanguinea - Onagrari^. Epi]obium anjjustifolium - latifoUum 01 i^anifolium - alpmumr near the preceding CEnothera biennis? SAXIFRAGEiE. Henchera Richardsonii - Saxifraga oppositifolia cernua nivalis Virginiensis vernalis - hirculus - tricuspidata Umbellifer^. Zizia cordata ARALIACE.E. Panax quinquefolium Corner. Cornus canadensis Caprifoliace^. Sambucus racemosa Viburnum acerifolium Lonicera parviflora ciliata caerulea Linnea borealis Rubiace^. Galium boreale Claytoni Thievv-ee-choh River. Ditto. Missinippi River. Slave River. Saskatchewan River. Thlew-ee-choh River. Saskatchewan. York Factory. Athabascow. Saskatchewan. Gulf of Boothia. Thlew-ee-choh. Ditto. River Winipeg. Ditto. Thlew-ee-choh. Slave and Winipeg Lakes. Thlew-ee-choh. Lake Winipeg. Saskatchewan. Winipeg and Slave Lakes. Lake Winipeg. Slave River, and Athabascow. Lake Winipeg. Fort William. Ditto. Missinippi River. Saskatchewan and Missinippi. Saskatchewan. M n; « mm \ p msim !;' |il 38S APPENDIX. Composite:. Leontodon palustre - Thlew-ee-choh. Bidens cernua - Saskatchewan. Achillea inilletblium - Ditto, and Missinippi. Pyrethrum inodorum ^ - Gulf of Boothia. Artemisia frigida - Athabascow. biennis - Ditto. borealis - - Thlevv-oe-choh, and Gulf Boothia. Arnica montana - Thlew-ee-choh. Seuecio aureus - Saskatchewan. Athabascow palustris - Missinippi. /g con gesta Gulf of Boothia. Erigenu pulchellus - - Lake Winipeg. purpureus - - Saskatchewan. Salidago virga aurea - Ditto. Aster paniculatus? - - York Factory. Antennaria plantaginea - Fort William. Slave Lake CAMPANtXACE^. Campanula linifolia - Saskatchewan. Ericine;e. Ledum palustre - Thlew-ee-choh. Arbutus alpina - Ditto. uva ursi - Lake Winipeg. Andromeda tetragona • Thlew-ee-choh. polifolia - liake Winipeg. calyculata - Lake Superior. Rhododendron Lapponicum Thlew-ee-choh. Azalea procumbens - Ditto. Vaccines. • Vaccinium Pennsylvanicum River Winipeg. uliwinosum - Thlew-ee-choh. vitis idaea . Saskatchewan. Gualtheria procumbens - Lake Superior. PYROLACEiE. Chimaphila. - - Pyrola rotundit'olia Athabascow. var. y Saskatchewan. ^ i Thlew-ee-choh. Gentiane^e. Gentiana amarella - York Factory. of \ Gulf of abascow. ve Lake. APPENDIX. ApOCYNEiE. Apocynum and rosajurifolium Batcliia canescens Collonica linearis Lithospernum paniculatum HYDROPHYLLEiE. Eutoca Franklinie S C ROPHUL ARINE jE. Pedicularis hirsuta Veronica peregrina Collinsia parviflora Riiinanthace;e. Euphrasia officinalis Melampyrum linearis Castelleja septentrionalis Primulace^. Menyanthes trifoliata Primula pusilla Trientalis Americana Lysimachia thyrsiflora Plumbagine^. Statice Armeria 389 Saskatchewan. Lake Winipeg. Saskatchewan. Lake Winipeg. Saskatchewan. Tlilew-ee-ciioh. Saskatchewan. Lake Winipeg. • Saskatchewan. Ditto. Winipeg and Slave Lakes. Lake Winipeg. Lake Superior. Saskatchewan. Ditto. Thlew-ee-choh, and Gulf of Boothia. ' Jk I POLYGONE^. Polygonum avicularc hydropiper var. eglandul persicaria Oxyria reniformis Chenopode^. Blitum Capitatum Chenopodium glaucum album Atriplex littoralis - Lopnanthus anisatum Athabascow. Sasksitchewan. Ditco. Athabascow. Thlew-ee-choh. Lake Winipeg, and Athabas- cow. Athabascow. Saskatcliewan. Athabascow. Saskatchewan. "'17 390 APPENDIX. f-Hr-J.l IjABIAT^R. Stachys palustris Dracoccphalum paiviflorum Thymele^e. Comandra umbellata EMPETREiE. Empetrum nigrum >■ Hydrolace^. Diapensia Lappunica Amentace^e. Salix arctica • cordifolia? reticulata herbacea Betula glandulosa - Alnus glutinosa Populus trepida Urtice.!". Urtica gracilis Conifers. Juniperus prostrata Iride^. Sisyrinchium anceps Orchide^. Habenaria rotundifolia bracteata Neottia cernua Cypripedium parviflorum Calypso boreal is MELANTHACE.E. Tofieldia palustris . AsPHODELE^. Allium schsenoprasum Saskatchewan. Lake Winipeg. Saskatchewan. Thlew-ee-choh. Thlew-ee-choh. Thlew-ee-choh. Gulf of Boo- thia. Thlew-ee-choh. Gulf of Boothia. Thlew-ee-choh. Ditto. Saskatchewan. Ditto. Lake Winipeg. Lake Winipeg. Lake Winipeg. Saskatchewan. Lake Winipeg. Athabascow. Lake Winipeg. Fort William. Lake Winipeg. Saskatchewan. Hi APPBNIilX. 391 lulf of Boo- SwiLACEiE. Smilacina stellata - Canadensis LlLIACE^. Lilium philadelphicum • Erythronium lanceolatum GRAMINEiE. Alopecurus aristulatus Cyperace^. Carex ? - . FitlCES. Nephrodium fragians Equisetum sylvaticum Marchantia poljmorpha - Hydrium auriscalpum Lake Winipe";. Ditto. Saskatchewan. Portage la Loche. Lake Superior. Saskatchewan. Lake Winipeg. Saskatchewan. Lake Superior. York Factory. York Factory. Lake Superior. i 392 APPKNniX. ''i. No. III. ARTICULATA. ^mi-i- p.:>^m fj mmm CalnloffiiP of Jlrachn'uln and fnsrrfs, colfertrd hi/ I\fr. h'hiij^, Stir- genn and A'afnra/isl fo (he I-Jxpedilion. By J. U. Ciiii,uke\, F.R.SS. liOiulon and Etlinl)ur(|iiiilibuH, Icilio cii'li'iis bri'viori: cute ubib)iiiiiiiH ovad transverse ru;i()sa, granulosa, pilisipie raris, albido-ila\is teclu; bid ad uiium ven- treuupie fretpieiilioribus. 5. TiioMisiis corona (n. s.,) iXoh. Glaber: tlioracc rfubcireulari, sublusco, iascii\ mcdiil albidA. ad fronteui latiori, coron:u(|ue eiiii^ieni siinuhmtc: niaiidibulis albidis: peihiin pari priujo et secundo vaiidis, plus duplo cuHeris uiajoribus; tertio breviori: femoribus subpubesteiUibus: tarsis subtus setosis, setis discretis, biseriatim positis: abdoniine ^loboso, nlbido. Tbis species agrees very nearly witb llahn's Th.dimhma, ex- c?pt in tlie form of tlie abdomen, whlcli in the latter is angular, having jnistcriorly on each side a projecting lobe; whilst in Th, corona it is globular. Since Halm exjjressly states that the male, although much smaller, exactly resembles the female, both in form and colour, the ditl'eronce between his specimen and ours cannot be sexual. Moreover, JIalm takes no notice of the singular, white, coronet-shaped mark in the front of the head, in the uj)per project- ing part of Avhich the brilliant eyes f the animal siiew like the jewels of a diadem. The four lateral eyes, as in Halm's species, are supported on little projecting knobs. Class INSFXTA. Order Parasita, Latr. (Anoplur.'e, Leach.) Genus PinLOPTERr^, Nit/.sch. [Pedlndus. liinn. Fabric. JUciniis, Degeer. Nirinuy, Hermann, Olfers, Leach.) Subgenus Docophorus, Nitzsch. 1. D. communis, Nifzsch. Pedic. embcrizte, Fabr. _ Degeer, vol. vii. pi. 4. f. 9.; Panzer, Deutsch. Insek. 51. 23. Found on the Snow-bird, Chatterer, and Grosbeak. Long, -j^ poll. 2. D. platyrhynchus, Nitz.? Pedic. ha^matopus, Scopoli? Found on a Hawk, but tlio species not mentioned. Long. j|^ poll. 1 believe this species to be identical withNitzsch's /"/tt/yrAyn- chus, the /'. hicmatopus of Scopoli (Ent. Carniol. p. 381.), as it * 'III Al'I'KNDIX. 395 indnco, con ivilloHis, 8|)i ul):i'(HialU)iiH, ■I'fse rugosu, I anum vcn- iHiY Hlbidil ad ibutisalbidis: [•is maJDiibus; ubtiis setosis, albido. diadcDia, ox- er is anjj;iilar, wl\ilst in 7%. Lliat tbc male, , both ill form A ours cannot ti;i;ular, white, jnper project- shew like the aim's species. ch.) inn. Fabric. iek. 51. 23. .. Long. -f^ 'copolii Long -^ TT77r 's Platyrhyn- I. 381.), as it n'' t'ki "The clear green north -eastern waters here contrast strongly with the turbid yellow streams of the Great Slave Lake, hurrying rapidly towards the Macken/,ie. Conical isolated hills are in va- rious places separated by narrow passages from the larger islands, whose picturesque outlines, rent into vast chasms and fissures, and rising to upwards of 1200 feet, are very imposing. "Near to the most northern of this chain of islands, Point Keith projects from the eastern main: and the channel, between that point and the northern shore of the lake, is interrupted by an island called £//t-thenueh*, or Reindeer Island, remarkable for its table-land; with perpendicular clifi's resting on sloping and irregular declivities, which gradually descend to the water's edge." Captain Back remarks, that a point which forms the western extremity of a small bay, in this part of the lake, con- sists of a mass of boulders, cemented into a kind of pudding- stone by a yellowish and indurated clay, to a height of from six to forty feet: the subjacent rocks, as they receded to the lake, acquiring an altitude between 1400 and 2000 feet. The point next rounded was steep and perpendicular; and from it the natives obtain a variegated marl, of a greenish-gray co- lour, of which they make their calumets and pipes. A similar substance, of a reddish tint, and also one of a pure white, both admitting of a high polish, are found beyond the western limits of the lake. Proceeding to the north and east, along that portion of the lake which separates the long island of Peth-the-nu-eh from the northern main, the island itself has an imposing appearance; its rocks, of the trap formation, exhibiting long lines of mural preci- pices, resting one upon another, and capped by even and lound eminences thinly clad with meagre pines. "It was impossible to look at them without being forcibly reminded of the same ap- pearances, but without trees, seen on a former occasion between the Coppermine River and Point liarrow, where the rocks are de- scribed by Dr. Richardson! as cfmsisting of clinkstone, porphyry, and earthy greenstone, which extended to the mouth of Wenzel's River." And, from this resemblance. Captain Back conjectures that the trap formation may probably run in a line almost due south to Great Slave Lake, where it is lost in the granitic district occupying an extensive range to and beyond Chipewyan. * This little island is not named in the annexed map; It is immedi- ately on the soutli of the date "Auiruet 14th," and south-west of the prolonged extremity of P^///-the-iin-ch. It is to be observed, tliat there isasnuill group in the lake also called "Reindeer Islands," north of the entrance of Slave River, und about iiortli-west of Rocky Point. t Frankhn's First Voyage, Appendix p. v. lip!.. APPKNDIX. 101 But, thougli tlie trap lorniatiun seems to predoiiiiiiute in Fetli- the-nu-eh tlie specimens from tliat side ot" the is'und which forms the shore of Cliristie's Bay are composed of muj^nesian limestone, like that of Dease's River, and many other places mentioned by Dr. Richardson. * The main shore of the lake on the north and west of Peth-the- nu-eh is also mountainous and rocky, consisting cliiefly of gneiss and porphyry: and, at a contracted part of the channel, called by the natives Tal-thel-leh, the water is said never to freeze; and this Captain Rack's experience proved to be the case during two winters. On the east of this place, an island was seen, display- ing a barren and rounded outline to the nortli, but on the south distinctly columnar. No specimens were obtained from it; but a drawing of Captain Back's leaves no doubt as to its structure, the columns being v/ell defined and regular. The altitude of the north shore of the lake varies but little thence to the point called by the natives "The Mountain;" — so named, however, not from any remarkable prominence, but to distinguish the spot where the natives leave their canoes wtfen striking into the interior. From the "mountain," the opposite peninsula of Gah-hoon-tchel-la, (or Rabbit Point,) has a bold and picturesque appearance, being more than 2000 feet high, al- most perpendicular, and evidently a continuation of the (trap) formation of Peth-the-nu-eh, from which it is separated on the soutl and west by an opening leading to Christie's Bay. The shores of the eastern part of the lake, as they approach each other, still retain their distinctive characters: that on the north being round-backed and gray, with a few trees; but that to the soutli precipitous, clifty, and almost barren. The rocks, enclosing the east end of the lake, around the bay on the north of which Fort Reliance was placed, are very like those already passed, but more acclivitous. The specimens from Fort Reliance, (which are marked "un- dulating rocks of considerable altitude,") consist of granite, hav- ing somewhat the aspect of sienite, reddish felspar, brown mica in small proportion, and gray quart/,. On the beach was found a mass of conglomerate of flint pebbles, cemented by sand and slightly effervescent matter. The pebbles, loose on the shore hereabouts, consist of chalcedony, ([uartz, flinty slate, a conglo- merate of red jasper pebbles in a siliceous dark gray cement, with fragments of jasper of various hues, inclining to brown. The sandy space, where the house, or "Fort," was erected, was about three miles broad, and hemmed in, on the east and ^'■.i ■n f.' il 51 Appendix to Franklin's Second Voyage, p. xiv. 402 APPENDIX. '■■k &'J^^ 1? west, by two rivers, which ran respectively along the bases of fiarallel ranges of granitic hills. The sand was comparatively evel; and in the space of half a mile were two more platforms, witii embankments rising gradually towards the rocky valleys which led to the barren lands. It seemed as if the water of the Great Slave Lake had once been so high as to have had the upper of the embankments for its boundary, and had since subsided. Immediately on the north of the "Fort," including the space between Hoarfrost River and the Ah-hel-desseh (the stream lead- ing from Slave Lake to Artillery Lake), the country is moun- tainous, and consists for the greater part of granite, in which red felspar and large plates of mica are conspicuous. The ascent here towards the barren lands may be taken at 14{)() feet. On the north, along Artillery Lake, the country assumes a more open aspect, with sloping moss-covered hills, on which are rarely scat- tered clumps ot wood; but in latitude 63° 15' N. the pine disap- pears altogether, and there it is that the "barren lands" fairly commence. The country from Artillery Lake to Clinton Colden Lake, and thence to Lake Aylmer, is cliaracteriz.ed by the small altitude of the hills, which are more or less covered with large boulders of granite, and decline to the water's edge. In these lakes islands are numerous; many of them consisting of great unbroken masses of granite, on the summits of which are huge stones and splintere«l fragments of rock. Similar boul- ders had been observed near Fort Enterprise drring the first journey of Sir John Franklin, where, in fact, the height of land seems to be a continuation of this tract, and to be of the same character. Sand was at first seen along the beach, but it soon rose into banks and mounds: and, finally, at the northern extre- mity of Lake Aylmer, are hills of some magnitude, which decline to the north-west, and indicate the height of land which feeds Sussex Lake, — the source of the Thlew-ee-choh-dezeth. Sussex Lake is small, and encompassed by low shelving de- clivities. To the west of it is a low ridge of sand-hills, which terminate abruptly, and form a passage for the escape of the waters towards the north. Within a mile of the lake is already a slight descent, forming a shallow rapid only a mile distant from Lake Aylmer, — the surface of which lake may be considered as three feet below the highest part of the dividing land. The river then winds its way through sand-hills, declining to the north-west; and, about four miles down the stream, passes the first rocks of gneiss in situ: — they have an even and tabular surface; and are broken into perpendicular clifts, about five feet high, which fall to the east. ym APPENDIX. 403 le bases of oparatively platforms, ;ky vallevs ater of the d the upper iubsided. ig the space itream lead- ■y is moun- n which red The ascent ;et. On the I more open rarely scat- j pine disap- ands" fairly en Lake, and II altitude of ; boulders of jm consisting lits of which Similar boul- ring the first leignt of land B of the same I, but it soon »rthern extre- which decline which feeds z,eth. shelving de- d-hills, which escape of the ike IS already e distant from considered as d. The river le north-west; first rocks of face; and are which fall to About five and twenty miles on the north-east of Lake Aylmer, the river cuts its way transversely, but without changing its di- rection, through a range of mountains running east and west, and then becomes very much interrupted by rapids. Sand-banks then begin to appear agai.i, and hills with "long sloping declivities, — partially covered with the usual fragments of granite;" — till within sixty miles of Bathurst's Inlet, latitude 65° 40', longitude 106° 35', where a barrier of mountains, probably continuous with the ranges to the east of that inlet, turns the river away to the east at an acute angle, for about thirty miles." Lake Beechey occupies the bend produced by this obstruction. The rocks around it were very rugged and desolate;* but, as the expedition was at this time passing rapidly down the stream, no specimens were obtained. Some cascades, a mile and a half long and sixty feet in descent, terminated the lake; and then the river followed the windings of a group of sand-hills, many of which were conical and partly covered with grass. Three isolated mountains of gneiss were seen about forty miles from the east ond of Lake Beecliey; and a few miles lower down, on the opposite side to these mountains, is the ingress of Baillie's River. The country now became low, flat, and very sandy, with an occasional smooth hill rent into watc -courses; and not more than half a mile from each other, wen ilie obtuse and rounded tops of a few dark rocks, that peeped above and chequered the surface of the yellow sand. It then changed to a mass of rocks, (Hawk Rapid,) between which the current ran with extreme vio- lence, but without much change of general direction. The spe- cimens from this place consist of reddish granitic compound ap- proaching to gneiss. Beyond these rapids, several rivers joined from both sides, and the main stream expanded into an extensive sheet of water (Lake Pelly,) with clear horizons at different points of the compass. There were here many islands; and the ridges and cones of sand of which they were composed were not only of considerable height, but most singularly and remarkably crowned with im- mense granite boulders, gray with lichen. A succession of dangerous falls and rapids follows this series of lakes, the course of which is very tortuoui; but the main di- rection, from the beginning of Lake Pelly to Lake Macdougal, is nearly from west to east. At Rock Rapid, in latitude 65° 54' 18", longitude 98° 10' 7", the river bursts with fury between four mountains of reddish granite, and turns short to the north. The stream now became half a mile to a mile in width, with *In many places, Captain Back observes, the ruggedness of their aspect reminded him of that of the lava round Vesuvius. 1 m ' 'lis m ^m ?V ^.>; 404 APPENDIX. ]h t . r hi lift! mi ' vj 111 '4, 't' rt.* ►^ V. J^J. fearful rapids and wliirlpools; and the adjoining country was far more ru^rgcd and mountainous than before. The rocks were evidently granitic; but no specimens were collected, as the party were carried down the stream in their boat. Having passed through another small lake, or expansion of the river, much impeded by ice, the stream turned agam to the east, and led to a steep iiill, where Esquimaux were found who had never seen Europeans. From about the point called Wolf-Fall, the course of the river is nearly from south-west to north-east; and, after an abrupt and remarkable elbow on the north of Mount Meadowbank, it runs in the bottom of a trough, or deep valley, to its junction with the sea. The object of the expedition having rendered it necessary that the party should proceed in their boat on arriving at the sea, very few specimens or notes descriptive of the rocks were obtained in the remotest part of the route. The only specimens are from a bluft' (Point Backhouse) on the north-west of Victoria Headland, which consist of reddish granite; and from another bluff beneath Point Beaufort of a similar compound of a gray colour; both on the eastern coast of the inlet, which forms the estuary of the Thlew-ee-choh-dezeth. The new ground therefore explored by Captain Back, from. Slave River to the sea in the parallel of &7° 10', with only two or three exceptions, is composed, so far as appears from his notes and specimens, of primitive rocks; a result which might have been expected from the description of the country previously known, which indicates a distinct line of boundary, m the north- east of America, between the calcareous and primitive tracts; the latter including the space traversed during Captain Back's late expedition. The exceptions are : — 1 . A portion of the north- east of Great Slave Lake, including the long island of Teth-the- nu-eh; and one, at least, of the smaller islands adjacent to it, ■which Captain Back describes as composed of trap rocks, but which include also strata of limestone. 2. — Perhaps, the rugged ground about Lake Beechey? which, fro'o the description, appears to differ much in aspect from the primitive country. S. — 'Lime- stone is mentioned in the narrative, as having been found in small fragments, on the shores of Montreal island, in the estuary of the Thlew-ee-choh-dezeth.* * Instead of this unwieldy name for tlienevvly discovered stream, that if "Back's River'" has been suggested by Captain Beiulbrt, Hydro- grapher to the Admiralty; the most appropriate denomination in sucJi cases being, in his opinion, that of the discoverer. APPENDIX. 405 itry was far rocks were 19 the party asion of the to the east, nd who had of the river \ abrupt and )ank, it runs anction with jcessary that the sea, very e obtained in ns are from a ia Headland, bluff beneath lour; both on stuary of the [i Back, from, N\i\\ only two Vom his notes h might have ry previously , in the north- initive tracts; aptain Back's 1 of the north- I of Teth-the- adjacent to it, •ap rocks, but )S, the rugged ption, appears 3. — 'Lime- found in small the estuary of ed stream, that 3?.utbrt, Hydro- lination in such On a general view of the map of (\iptain Bark's lafo expedi- tion, it may bo remarked that the river is obviously ijivided into three portions (and the eastern part of Slave liakc itself may perhaps be considered as resembling them), all nearly parallel, and lying in a direction from about 8«)utli-west to north-east, allowance being made for the convergence of the meridians in those high latitudes. These portions are: 1. — The Thlew-ee- choh-de/,eth, from its source in Sussex liake, to the head or north- western extremity of Lake Beechey. 2. — Froui the curve a little eastward of Baillie's River, to the north-western extremity of Lake Pelly. 3. — From Wolf Fall, — andj more distinctly, from the rapids north of Mount Meadowbank, to the sea. 4. — Slave Lake itself, — from the entrance of Slave River to Fort Reliance, and the river which connects it with Artillery Lake. The first of these divisions being about eighty -five Knglish miles in length; the second nearly a hundred miles; the third, reckoning from Wolf Rapid, about a hundred and twenty miles, — or, from the north of Mount Meadowbank, more than ninety miles in length; while the less uniform line from Slave Lake, at the entrance of Slave River, to the head of Artillery Lake, is more than two hundred and fifty miles. Again, the watercourse which unites the several portions above mentioned has likewise, in two cases, some approach to parallel- ism; the chain of lakes, from Lake Ay liner eastward, having a direction to the south of east, through a distance of nearly a hundred miles; and that from I^ake Beechey to the east of Bail- lie's River, nearly the same general direction, for about eighty miles. The waters which connect liake Pelly with the sinuosi- ties about Wolf Rapid, comprehend a series of lakes of very irregular form, and of tortuous river, having, nevertheless, a gene- ral direction nearly from west to east. It is almost premature to speculate on evidence so scanty as that which has just been stated; but it is probable both that the fiarallel portions of the river, and the less regular transverse ines which connect them, are the results of geological structure. The parallel lines along which the river makes its way towards the north-east, from the ground dividing the Water-shed at Sus- sex Lake, and the general course of Great Slave Lake thence towards the south-west, may, possibly, be longitudinal valleys between parallel ridges of small elevation, directed from south- west to north-east.* While the rocky and elevated ground about * This, Dr. Richardson states, is the average direction (or, 'strike') of the primitive and transition strata, through about twelve degrees of longitude, over which his own journeys extended. It is also the direc- tion of the strata in many of the ranges in the British Islands, and on the Continent of Europe. Ik' ■4i 40G APPENDIX. W^^^± <;m *.,;t: . i^' • '■l', Lake Heochey, whicli turns the river IVoiii its previous direction, may be a continuatiun of the mountainous tract about Back's River, and on the east of Bathurst Inlet, the general course of whicli seems to be from the south of cast towards tiie north of west. This also is the direction of the range of hills, laid down during the first of Franklin's journeys, near the Coppermine River, about latitude 06° 32', longitude 115° to ll6° W.* The irregular ground between those hills and Heywood range of Cap- tain Back (latitude 64° :;0', longitude 108°), includes the group of lakes about Point Lake: between which and Contwoy-to, or Rum Lake, is the division of the Water-shed, which has the same general direction with the ridge or height of land that di- vines Sussex Lake from Lake Aylmer, and, possibly, may be a continuation of it. As the existence of lines of division, like those just mentioned, is one of the most prominent general circumstances hitherto ascertained respecting the geology of this part of America, I have great pleasure in subjoining the following observations from a letter of Dr. Richardson, by whom in person many of the points in question have been examined. They will be perfectly intelli- gible if the reader will place before him Arrowsmith's, or any other good general map of North America. "The course of the Rochj Mountains^ chain," Dr. Richardson state8,t "from the Sierra of Mexico, in latitude 30° — to its termi- nation on the coast of tlu Arctic Sea, in latitude 69°, is about N. by W., with very little deviation any where. The* chain rises abruptly from a flat or very slightly inclined country, in which the great prairies of the Arkansas, Missouri, and Saskatchewan are incluUv'^d. To the eastward of these prairie lands (at least N. of liakf Superior), there is an extensive limestone deposit; and between this and the primitive zone of hills or rocks still farther cast" — (to which may now be added the greater part, if not the wliole, of the tract explored by Captain Back), "tliere ia a series of rivers and lakes, oc( ipying the line of conjunction, and extending from the Lake of the Woods to the Arctic Sea. "It is to be noticed, however, that although the lakes on this line generally have primitive rocks on the east side, and lime- stone on the west, the connecting rivers generally flow wholly in one formation or in the other. Thus, the River Winnipeg flows * In the last of the maps annexed to Franklin's first journey, the direction ascribed to this ran^e, Dr. Richardson informs me, is errone- ous. It is described as consisting of "hills running in mountain ranges to the South (instead of North) West; clay slate, with peaks of from 1,200 to 1,500 feet high." t MS. letter, March 28, 1836. APPKNDIX. •107 direction, ut Baclc'8 c our He of »e north of laid down Coppermine VV.* The ige of Cap- I the group twoy-to, or ch has the ind that di- j, may be a mentioned, ;e3 hitherto ;rica, I have ions from a f the points ictly intelli- th'ai, or any , Richardson ■to its termi- , is about N. ' chain rises •y, in which isicatchewan ids (at least )ne deposit; r rocks still later part, if k), "there is conjunction, rctic Sea. akes on this e, and lime- )w wholly in nnipeg flows journey, the me, is errone- iintain ranges peaks of from through primitive rocks; the edge of the limestone being a short way to the westward. We may trace the formation up the east side of Lake Winnipeg to Norway Point, and from thence straight to Beaver Lake; the Saskatchewan to tl»e westward flowing over limestone, which is close to the primitive strata in Heavor Lake. The Missinippi or Churchill River* Hows through primitive rocks. "We loose the primitive rocks at Isle la Crosse, where there is limestone; and at Portage la Roche we cross a high sandstone ridge, covered with much sand.t The Clear-water River, at the foot of this ridge, flows over limestone, which is also seen in the Athapescow River, but undc;* much bituminous shale. On tlu' north side of Athapescow Lake (or Lake of the Hills), the rocks are primitive, and the Slave River flows sometimes through lime- stone, at other times over granite, and sometimes between the two. Its mouths open into Slave Lake between the limestone and granite. "By carrying the eye over the map from point to point above mentioned, it will be seen that the western boundary of the east- ern primitive rocks as it runs northward, inclines towards the RocKy Mountains. There arc no prairie lands north of Peace River, and no flat country skirting tlic Rocky jMountains beyond Great Slave Lake. I have seen the Rocky Mountains only in the M'Kenzie, and there from a distance; b\it these great valleys seemed, as I passed, to cross the general direction of the chain at right angles. A Canadian, who had crossed the mountains in the quarter I speak of, said that he passejl over thirteen separate ridges. He did not, therefore, go directly across the general line of the chain: — or, the valleys, that I saw, do not penetrate deep. * Dr. Richardson remarks, "That the character of this river is pre- cisely similar to that of the Thlew-ec-choh-dezeth: a series of!ak."-like and many-armed dilatations, connected by narrow rocky rapids, some- times one, sometimes many, separated by higrh rocky islands. There are some curious islands in the Missinippi; consisting of large granite boulders, or rounded masses, piled one above the other to a great height; and on their upper points, where they are out of the reach of the sea, they are hoary with lichens. The water immediately sur- rounding these islands is many fathoms deep: and on looking ■\l them, I was inclined to think that the soft parts of the granite had weathered awav, and left these rounded and harder masses so piled up." t The frequent occurrence and thickness of the deposits of sand in this part of North America appear, both from Dr. Richardson's de- scription of the country seen during the preceding expedition east of the Mackenzie, and from Captain Back's notes of his journey, to be remarkable. It well deserves inquiry whether these accumulations are the deposite of the (comparatively) recent seas, during their occu- pation of that continent, or belong to the secondary or tertiary groups of strata. •li »4' if; ! .'Tl nf «•♦:, # '10» Al'l'KNDlX. ' s "I tuiinot," Dr. Kiclianl«on adds, "^ive any positive iiilonna- tion ros|)('ctiii}j; the coiintrv to the eastward of what I have hith- erto been 8[ieukiiiv; of. The liir//t-west di- rection (and not a .v«j///t-west, as erroneously marked in the n»ai»). These primitive rocks extend to the Contwoy-to, or Rum Lake, and, I doubt not, also to Back's new river. There are limestone deposits between the eastern printitive rocks and Hudson's May, and also northward, on the Arctic Sea, where ('aptain Ross was. ♦'All the primitive rocks in that part of the country which I have called tlie "eastern primitive district" are low, and do not form mountain ranges, except on that part of the Coppermine River already alluded to." The specimens and informatum obtained by Captain Back, in iliat part of his route which preceded his own discoveries, accord wi*.h the previous descriptions of Dr. Richardson; and as the Ijla^es referrecl to can be but seldom visited, I shall subjoin a general account of the specimens. Amonj; the most remarkable are several fraj^ments of a white or cream-coloured limestone from the norfh-western extremity of Lake Winnipeg, very much re- sembling a series presented to the Geological Society some years ago ^in 1 823) by Dr. Bigsby, from the north-western shore of Lake Huron (a spot more than 600 geographical miles from Lake Win- nipeg. *) Having requested my friend Mr. Stokes, by whom some * From Dr. Bigsby'a account of the country around Lake Huron, and thence to the south-east, it would appear that the line of division between the primary and secondary rocks, is continued from the neigh- bourhood of Lake Winnipeg, being in the same direction with that above specified, for several iiiuidred miles: — "The northern shore of Lake Huron, with its nearest isles, consists [)rincipally of the older rocksj the secondary occupy the rest of the ake. The primitive rocks are part of a vast chain, or which the south- ern portion, extending, probably uninterruptedly, from the north and east of Lairoach to gneiss; having a foliated structure, with mica in very arge proportion. From the beach, at the entrance of the Lake, is a siliceous conglomerate; consisting of worn pebbles of flint, cemented by a paste composed of sand and calcareous (eftervescent) matter. The following were found in the form of loose worn pebbles, on the shore of the lake, near Fort Reliance: — Bluish gray lamellated chalcedony; quart/, crystals; quartz of various hues of gray and brown; flinty slate; brown jasper; with fragments of a conglomerate, consisting of portions of reddish jasper, in a dark gray paste. From Hawk Rapids.— (Lat. 66° 33°, Long. 102° 40')— Red- dish granite; some specimens indicating a slaty structure. Gray quartz, apparently a portion of a vein. From Rock Rapid.— f Lat. 6.5° 50', Long. 98° 20')— Granite of different shades of redaish and gray. From Point Backhouse, in the estuary of Back's River.— Reddish granite of moderately fine grain. And lastly, — From "a Bluff, North of Point Beaufort." — Bluish-gray granite of fine grain. ■:i 'f 'll f 412 APPENDIX. No. V. METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. ARRANGED FROM THE REGISTERS KEPT AT FORT RELIANCE BY CAP- TAIN BACK AND MR. KING. The following table exhibits the temperature of the air and principal atmospherical phenomena observed at Fort Reliance, from tne commencement of November, 1833, to the end of May, 1834j and from the 22nd of October, 1834, to the 18th of March, 1835. The temperatures were registered fifteen times in the twenty- four hours, between six o'clock in the morning and midnight. The daily means were obtained from the fifteen observations. The four thermometers which were used were coloured spirit ones, made by Newman, and were hung up on the north side of the observatory where they were registered; but finding that they varied from each other as the temperature decreased, and that one gave nearly the mean of the whole, it was afterwards used as the standara thermometer, and from it the observations were made. The remarks made on preceding voyages regarding the gene- rally calm state of the atmosphere during intense cold, are in a great measure corroborated by the following table, though in some lew instances it will be seen that a very low degree of the thermo- meter was accompanied by a breeze preceding or immediately following a calm. 4' APPENDIX. 413 ;CE BY CAP- the air and t Reliance, nd of May, I of March, ;he twenty- l midnight. )servations. mred spirit rth side of g that they , and that /vards used itions were the gene- d, are in a ^h in somt lie thermo- nmediately S m CO b s e u I" i •a a a Si2 o (fa I o a a a o to o o §• 3 o a <4 j3 © h. iJ§3 i o ^ 5 o oo i' i^ES^ls dS ^ so; III •3 « o r^ ^^ ^^ ^^ ^- rm m k^ pb j^ NM _ > O . >• . . 03 3 ca ea 0)0 0)0) .S.S3 d cd C0 bCfab c 3 fl 3 •3«J-3iJ M.;^EfaU 0) a «) a iJ-3iJ-3 M ec m 01 TO « -- o< o o -NM^««»^coo>o--222:22!::22SSSS5S;i3SP.&S?5S? S ■m I 11''; il 414 APPENDIX. Mi- ID I CD '^ -2 o o '^ E m boi-. a MM «S C !» d '3 ♦-» 3 o £ b a OS m :■ •• e3 "^ -5: 000 SOSes'- c o a.. >2 ^ o ■3 Si a s 1^ s 1 A ^ 1* to 3^ ..o S cdoctagocds m (u o (u (U S; o url 5555uo55 g§,2 a >o bD S at > 03.3 Cd q;) 25 3.2 <> U) o cd Q I od >-• 5 «4 *^ I f/i o > u O i « .. • 3 ■ 2 « H c o fc; eB (U •• g fl .. iJ5 o S « « o c a CD ■3 -SiS S O al'3 ed a d a d a 3 (d q d ea 03 ^^ — < faOU I :«Hs ." .i iTTTTTTiTTri i T SS888888S8S8SS8SS -H-H-l-hH-l I I++I I I I f^ ih Oi -t< «3 CO "^ 00 '^ OJ rt P ^ t'^ n«QO(bdo6iaojflcooif5Wju>no H-H-H- 1 I I I I I I I l + l+TTl + I I l-H-7 I iT -.o.«*ln5 W.B Calm. Calm N.E. North Calm. N.E. East. SSSS^IS I* s a I 3 I a "a > s-£s am- So *^ Em 3.? < > ■a » S3 3 a b»" ^>^?' > o «3 a> CO ♦^ ♦J ■ • CO >» o A 1) 0) 0) i! iM (-• s-t < l-'l, 3 L^ ~ *-» . a ol «« = » ^^ » >.» -« £ a p;'^ Jn ti C ^ O '*^ ft) O C fc. — a* s g 10 S o-t.'' - s S i-t .c o • .ti a CJ *-' -^ V --^ aa3c«JJ= ** C *rt M ,— « ^ " ojB UbSS lu N « a * o ^2 i ._. ^ « I. >d a u « _, r^ /-I rt^ » G §{ • or? _ baiaJ«334)a) 5o55ca.55u5S55 cd cs a n 03 o cs>- (U >d a u » _, ..■So 0) ^ a iS-fo^rt^ ) U D o5 So « 2 *-* cj e 3 •J 00 .. .>> .. >» .. ? . <03aa3oe3gcSo3 vocuaJO-^ b tJ (S 01.3 acadsdesisaaiii mm " a ti\0 ■3 iJ iJ o iS a ^ a '3 iS iS -S 'C iB ■? -C -3 iit,omi,oh,mi«fc.uoMBmi.a3fc. 3 a 3 a a 3 ;S-3ii5aa ♦J sh M *i H 3 a a a 3 ■3iKii-5.2 -"Oh *= ^>5 a O a« 8SSSS SS3; a s ■30 — . _ o I a b,' 0 a a 13 r . a 80 i »3 S3 (d cj a a>-J a a 73 71 ceo I I I I i M I I I I I I I I I I S S 5 >2 S S S 5 175 (?) § 5 5 ih^QOldOQPOOC'^IOlcrQO— ' I I I I I I I l + l I I S8SSSSSS8§8S88^1S3 I I M I I I I I I 1 r I I I I i_ I I I I I I I I M I I I I I I I 83SS8SSSSSS5S on >b 6* sb lb .— Tf* QC t^ i or '^' ■-- I I I I I I I l + l I I I "CTi b^to C5 »5 f>» « 'ri o'w o '^/l^:' 3-^oj«)M'io'.ot^ U- ° is >»a) .. 00 ,. A,S>, 5aa«.S35<3S « «j « a § ogs (u uooS>oco5 0) r>;Z07i>7iOZZuZg7i> H n Z Z .u . SzS cd ^ <3 n o SS So So oi QD »h g; I i Sg8S8§SS8S8S8S8Sg8§8Sg I I I I I I I I l + l 1 I I I l-H-l I I 60 S at o >> d 0 SS §88§SS8SSSSS8SS^S8SSb8SSks 6 CO in Qc M - oo. I 11111114-111 + 1111 + 1111 l + l I I I I -0'-<«(<3«orJc^«sjW«cfcog M APPENDIX. 417 O CD V .2 * .. ; 3 ^3 ) 4) > «J ° > si a fa fr- in .« .M . w -SzS * ^.-- (flM CO gSSSSS g ) n^orP'^co I I ±t±±± So ggiSS^s I s ft! CO CO -6 13 e s o ^° g U so ■Ci 1 & o •3 g s Clear: Overcast: Parhelia: Slight thaw ia the sun. Clear: Cloudy: Snow: (Snow soft.) (iloomy: Heavy drift: Clear. ^ Clear. Overcast. Oveicast: Squally: Drift. (■lear. Clear. Cloudy: Misty. Overcast: Clear. Clear: Overcast. #i . Clear: A sott blue sUy. Thaw m the sun. Clear blue sky: Drift. Overcast: Drift. Variable: Light snow: Slight thaw. Clear: Misty: Overcast: (Spiculae.) Cloudy: Snow: Clear. Very clear. Cloudy: Misty. Clear. 1) Clear. Clear: Hills refracted. Clear. Clear. Lunar halo. Snow: Overcnst. Cloudy: Snov.': Clear. (_) Overcast: Clear: Heavy drilt. Overcast: Clear: Drift. Cloudy: Misty. Clear. Cloudy: Clear: (Thaw.) Clear. Squally: Drift. Clear: Overcast. e <> fa anoiaa es a «i Scaa aaec&a — oj C.2.2id S, si S, .£5 5 3 i!c3d— aja Ufa cauofa Ofa U Ufafafa OfafaUfafa 1 •9 -^ CO t>. (N (N in « •» -^ "* ^^ ' « tc t^ in 1^ si o o Q Calm. S.E. W.S.W. Calm. N.E. S.W. W.N.W. N. S.W. Calm. S.W. N. Calm. W.B.N. Calm. S.W. Calm. S.W. Calm. Calm. S.W. Calm. N.E. E. N.E. E.N.E. E.B.S. N.W. N.E. Calm. N. E. Calm: E.B.N. N.E. Calm. N.E. W.B.S. Calm. S.W. W. Calm. S. Calm. W. Calm. Variable. Calm. N. Calm. N.E. calm. Calm. E.NE. W. N.E. Calm. S.W. N. N.W. Calm. S.W. S.W. Calm. N. Calm. N.E. E.N.E. E.B.N. N.E. Temperature of the At- mosphere, registered 15 times in the 24 h'rs. V 3 SSS5?8S8SSSf55SS8SSS88§8SsS58SSgS l + l 1 1 1 1 1 l + l 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 M 1 1 M 1 1 1 1 1 1 g 1 1 iS 5§S8S8SSS8SS8SS8f3SSSi?8SS?g8SSSSSS 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 85 n + S ^ ' ' ' f 1. ( 1 1 1 J.. I 1 J_L 1 1 1 1 1 [ 1 1 t .1. 1 1 1 .1 .1. 1 1 i-H 1 ■1-1 r 1 -1 1 1 1 1 t'T' 1 ■!■+ 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ■!■ 1 1 1 ■! 1 1 1 1 1 o -s,M,^Ln«»t^xc-.o-2i22;«2t:22a53gl?)S;aSfi}a5SSS en ■li^ u '..■ M 53 i" ■•fe! 418 AI'PKNDIX. I 5 5.2 c! tJ 53 " ed oj 3.2 •a - d -^d"* " M ' ■— to a ^ •- i; a 'S " 3 " o " Is w * i>,-s ;; -a. O w 'C ca i; 5 o ;s S: S! Cfl >* a; .o o^s 5. rr-a .S^-fi O B ..OUsHfei^H S a u ^ , a 3 S el 9 sj S! 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CDS > w in "? !0 in CO ssa .000 2| » w e U * oj a^ es d 5 U 0 U gSSSSsS M 1 M M 1 M 1 1 M 1 ■«)< 7 M :77 i7 3S5S;S8^85 85 s ft? CO I ^ 8 I g '^ c a o ■a a CO '3 a o IS R « d 2.5. " i-H 7^ 7i . © ■a ■a o « =: -S . 1 (u wa ^ cd > 3 350 « 3 3 d ca g ^ o o a^ Gj o 2a^ 'B . . X«! d ■a u o Fi^ Sm tM g 0) 0) n T3 a 5 '3 OS 0) d" .a-2 d >, ^3 ^ii>.>^ « to ■■'' «J « 3 g 3 « 3 3 ii - k, O jh k- a « d ^ d d » « 0) j; n 0) 5o5o5o b b !-; "' -i d d d a a 5 .0 H ^ A\ r-i £ u SS2 d . . d d d d d £3 d <8d dr*^ .dd^;* a d w d d • . ^ A :;H Ed ^a >MOMMU O O in m O o Wsflssllsfslsms t^ Tji 01 CO '.o -n* ih OJ :o cri cb lb fi> ^! o -n^ lb 'ib i+i I i + i+++i+7'i777 1 I I I M + l ■H(MCO^OtOKOOa'SO-''^CO'-ri»':'.S»^'-/> li^l 426 APPENDIX. 13 § 8 -I -uiais d 'unoji E • Jns |o JO +2J+2J+°'+2+'-''+;2+S:+53 l**^ I& IS l1§ I 3+2+i +S+S+g+5+SI4-S+g+3 +^+a+3+8+s+s+3+s+g+a+2+2+g+§+;^+^+s+g;+g;+a+s+!3+g' a e s- 8 > 6 4) U |s a o 4! H w 4) S^ "> o V ^ ^ o d o a) s a St Id a 8 o •3 Si < X3 '■J o 0) g o .2 <§ (U O 2 A .!3 d bo ■a C S o. ■o o o u M oj OS 09 o <0 ■3 cS B a 5 a u a V b. a a tx M 8 S € et *• i 1 ~ f- * ^ * * *■ i » 4) 1 i O S •6 o ■B ■3 |. •3 J3 u o .a u 1-1 ,c o 1 2 r. fa •a 1 i S 5 Si *-> ■a J3 H 1 1 o 1 5 a 5 1 S I-'*' b CO QC Eb ca in £ ca ai cc H !*> ^ u c« & a a a ^ 'A U u s ^ 54 i P4 f cl; = A< £ i h i b (C d CM ^ o _^ •V to A in w 1— 1 CO o •* -^ 5 ' ; i t0 =: - N. 00 8 a CO ' i ■^ 1 ; - i ' K ; - t 2S 1 * - =■ i ; ; 5 s 1 - I ^ ; ; r t s J : ; * t I .- Ik If .*; 428 APPENDIX. No. VII. ON THE AURORA BOREALIS. The observations on this phenomenon were made, without inter- ruption, during six months in the years 1833-34, and five months in the years 1834-35; but, as their entire insertion would occupy too much space here, I have selected chiefly the instances pos- sessing the greatest interest from the effect produced by them on the needle, and from the brilliancy and eccentric motions of the coruscations. That the needle was constantly affected by the appearance of the aurora, seems evident from the facts thus stated; and, on one occasion, indeed, this effect exceeded eight degrees. I abstain, however, from drawing any inferences on this subject; and merely note down carefully, and witlx as much precision as possible, the whole of the pheromena. Brilliant and active coruscations of the aurora borealis, when seen through a hazy atmosphere, and exhibiting the primitive colours, almost invariably affected the needle. On the contrary, a very bright aurora, though attended by motion, and even tinged with a dullish red or yellow, in a clear blue sky, seldom produced any sensible change, beyond, at the most, a tremulous motion. A dense haze or fog, in conjunction with an i APPENDIX. 429 of the observatory, to inform me of the changes in the corusca- tions. The height of the arches was estimated by the eyej and their bearing by reference to the liouses and other marks which had been previously determined. The bearings are reckoned from the magnetic meridian. lout inter- ve months ild occupy ances pos- y them on ons of the ;ted by the facts thus eded eight jrences on ;h as much alis, when primitive contrary, en tinged |i produced motion. ve aurora, lie needle; nd active any sound 13 often to often per- luch resem- in. I read Ihe outside ROUGH NOTES ON THE AURORA. October 27th, 1833. — ^The needle evinced no particular agita- tion throughout the day, except the same tremulous motion it displayed occasionally night and day. At midnight the weather changed from an overcast to a blue and cloudy sky. The moon was clear, and the coruscations streamed in beams in the direc- tion of the dipping needle, and formed an undulating fringed arch, from a horse-shoe shaped mass, at N. N. W., 10° high to 70° northerly. This was met by two bright beams, which issued from E. N. E., 15° high. On entering the observatory I found the needle vibrating, and on the approach of the fringed arch towards the zenith, it immediately attained to 1° 0' W., and before Mr. King had informed me that beams were darting from the east- ward, it had already begun to recede, and fixed at 1° 0' E.; after- wards, on the apparent motion of the aurora ceasing, and the coruscations becoming faint, it settled at 0° 30' E. October 28th.— At 8h. a. m. the needle was at 1° 20' E. At 9h. I found it at 2° 20' E.: saw it move to 2° 50' E., and being something surprised, I went out to endeavour to tra .j some cause for such a deviation. There was not, however, the least vestige of a cloud, the sky being of an indigo colour at the zenith, and becoming fainter in tone till it mingled in a pale yellow near the horizon. The sun was very bright, about 10^ high, and bore E. 5 S. (m.) The thermometer on the north side of the observatory was —45°, that on the soutli, exposed to the sun's rays, was -(-45°: the weather calm. At lOh. A. M. the needle was agitated at 1° 30' E.; at llh. I found it also at 1° 30' R., but in motion, which took it to 2° 0' E., then to 0° 20' E., to 0° 20' W., where it remained ten seconds, and repassed to 0" 40' E., to 0° 0', 0° 10' E., to 0° 30' E., 0° 20' E., to 1° O'E., 1° 40' E., and 0° 25' E. : when, seeming to be sta- tionary, I went out, and placing myself in the shade of a fir tree of thirty feet high, looked directly to the zenith and to the west- ward (the sun being too bright to look to the eastward), when there appeared a very faint and filmy arch of pale white, that issued ■I 430 APPENDIX. from a mass of white cloud precisely similar in shape to the horse- shoe mass of aurora of last night in the same place; and on watch- ing more attentively, I could see a very pale yellow arch rising from the same mass, and extending southerly to S. E. by S. , at an angle of 30°. Afterwards several detached radial clouds be- came visible, and more than once I thought they difiered much in brightness in the same point. On first seeing tlie needle move, it occurred to me that, though distant from it nfteen inches, the steel in the works of the two chronometers might possibly be tlie cause; but on my remaining motionless for ten minutes, it went through the vibrations men- tioned above. At noon it was considerably agitated, but steadily, not jerking, and with the most gentle motion it went from 1° 0' E. to 0° 20' W., and settled at 0° 0'. There were now many more clouds of the same pale white filmy form; the whole of them coming from the same mass at W. N. W., while the wind, it may be remarked, was E. N. E. or (May E. by S). Not being satisfied respecting the chronometers, I left them, together with my braces (which had a small polished buckle on each], in my tent, and at Ih. p. m. found the needle tolerably steady at 0° 10' E.; but while I was looking, it moved to 0° 30' E., to 0° 10' E., to 0° 0', and I left it at 0° 30' E. The weather was fine, the sun less bright than in the earlier {»art of the day, and the white clouds had become of a more yel- owish tint, and diffused in three arches not unlike a common form of exhausted aurora, or that appearance it assumes some- times after very rapid motion. At 2li. p. m., having the clirono- meters on as usual, I found the needle steady at 0° 18' E. The sun was less clear, and the thermometer descending. Clouds white, generally diffused. At Sh. p. M. it altered from 0° 5' E. to 0° 10' E., and was tremu- lous. At 4h. it was steady at 0° 10' E. Thermometer in tlie air 0°, and in the observatory -f 15|°; weather fine with light clouds, much the same as those already described. At 6h. a beam rose from the W.N.W., and shot up towards the zenith, when the needle moved from 0° 2' W. to 0° 30' W. December 6th. — The weather had been overcast all day, with snow, and a strong breeze from S. W. Thermometer from + 131° to-|-9°, when at 7h. p. m. it became calm, and the thermometer immediately fell to — 1°. At midnight there was a light air from E., a clear sky, and the aurora was generally diftused. The thermometer had fallen to —11°, and on. examination the needle was vibratins;: from 0° 25' APPENDIX. 431 ) the horse- i on watch- arch rising a. by S., at I clouds he- ed much in that, though of the two y remaining itions men- not jerking, E. to 0° 20' ire clouds of :oming from (e remarked, I left them, :d buckle on lie tolerably ved to 0° 30' fi the earlier a more yel- e a common iumes some- the clirono- 18' E. The ina:. Clouds [ was tremu- in the air 0°, 1 light clouds, a beam rose th, when the ill day, with |rfrom+13^° 1 thermometer sky, and the lad fallen to fromO° 25' W. A mass of aurora appeared at E., and it moved to 0° 40' E., 0° 20' E., 0° 42' E., and became stationary at 35' and 40' E. Some beams darted up from \V., and the needle returned to 0° 5' E. The aurora was then generally diftused, and rather faint, when the marked end remained at 0° 0'. A beam at N. E. caused it to move 0° 10' E., where it stood a few seconds, but on some more beams uniting, so as to form a mass at N. E., the needle directly moved to 0° 20' E. Again, the mass was diffused in a tilmy form from E. to W. b. S. and the marked end retrograded to 0° 0'. Another change to a con- centrated mass at E. N. E. took it from 35' to 48'. The aurora rgain became spread, and the needle was stationary at 0° 0'. December 12th. — At lOh. p. M. the weather was gloomy, over- cast, and calm, but from the unusual brightness at a time of new moon, and tlie distinctness with which objects appeared, there was every reason to suppose the aurora was then very brilliant above the clouds. On entering the observatory I saw the needle vibrating rapidly to the westward, and having taken the time, iGh. 3rm. Os., clu'onometer number 1., I watched it move from 0° 10' E. to 3° 20' W., to 10' E. to 2° 50' W., to 0° 40' W., to 3° 55' W., to 0° 8' E., to 2° 30' W., to 20' E., to 2° 30' W., to 0° 08' E., to 2° 30' W., to 0° 40' W., to 2° 50' W., to 1° 20' W., to 2° 20' W., to 1° 10' W., to 2° 42' W., to 1° 55' W., to 2° 58' W., to 1° 58' W., to 3° 10' AV., to 2° 5' W., to 3° 00' W., to 2° 50' W., to 3° 20' W., to 2° 8' W., to 2° 30' .W., to 1° 35' W., where it remained stationary five seconds, and vibrated quickly to 1° 28' W., to 2° 10' W., to 1° 45' W., to l'^ 58', to 1° 05' W., to 1° 10' W., to 0° 40' \V., to 0° 55' W., to 0° 18' E., to 0° 20' E., where it again became stationary only seven seconds, then moved slowlv to 00° 00' still slower to 0° 20' W., to 00° 00', to 0° 15' W., to^0° 10' E., to 00° 00', to 0° 12' E., to 0° 12' W., to 0° 5' W., and ijuicker to 0° 48' W., to 1° 12' W., to 1° 05' W., at which point it was steady three seconds, when it moved to 0° 58' W., to 1° 28' W., to 1° 08' W.,to 1° 28' W., to 1° 08' W., to 1° 28' W., to 1° 08' W., to 1° 15' W., to 0° 58' W., to 1° 08' W., to ()"' 58' W., to 1° 00', where it remained sta- tionary at 16h. 52m. 00s., making an interval of fifteen minutes. I remained there till 17h. Om. Os., or a quarter of an hour longer, and it vibrated with diminished force between 1° 00' W., and 0° 30' W. January 7th, 1834. — For nearly a month the needle had not been perceived to be affected by the aurora, which it may be proper to observe was always very faint, apparently high, and generally confined to one point of the heavens. Its motion was rarely aetected, though, from some discrepan- 432 APPKNDIX. ■t'?i!is •.^m cies in tlic diurnal course of tl»« needle, such an occurrence may be inferred. At lOh. p.m. tlusnij;lit, the sky was nearly entirely obscured, except at the northern and western horizons above the hill.'*. At tlie former were some l)ri;;ht rays, and at tlie latter a brilliant streaming mass of a reddish coloured aurora, which, as I went t) the observatory, llitted across tlie y.onilh to the eastward. The needle was moviii;r (juickly, and having marked it at .1° ijO' E., I ran for Mr. King to watch the motion of the aurora; and noting the time by chronometer (ITh. ;10m. OOs.), I saw the needle move from 5° 30' E. to 2" 00' E., to O*" 40' E., to 1° 20' E., to 0° 10' W., to 0° 10' E., to 1° 40' E., a large mass darted up from S. W., and faded into the tone or colour of the sky at the zenith: 2° 35' E. to 1" 10' E., a beam from east to west, pass- ing northerly at an angle of 80°: 1° 50' to 1° 40' E., a high hori- zontal narrow mass at an angle of 15° E.: 1° 55' E., 2° 15' E., 1° aJ' E., 2" 20' E., 1° 00' E., 2° 25' E., 1° 35' E., a beam s!iot up from north, and, dividing itself into three branches, ex- tended to the 3. W. horizon at an angle of 25°: 3° 00' E. to 1° 35' E.,to 0° 50'E.,to 1° 35' E., to 1° 10' E., to 2° SO' E., a large mass from west to south: 2° 00' E., 2° 10' E., 1° 55' E., concen- trated mass due south, in magnetical meridian: needle nearly steady at 1° 40' E., 2° 00', steady five seconds: 1° 50' E. to 2° 05' E., a beam from N. E. to N., 0° 30' E.: needle moved slowly to 1° 05' E., 0° 05' E., a beam N. E. : to 1° 10' E., to 0° 30' W., to 0° 40' E., to 0° 22' W., to 1° 40' E., and stopt suddenly at 0° 5' E., to 1° 50' E., beam from east to v/est: 2° 0' E., to 00° 00', to 0° 05' E., to 0° 22' W., corona at zenith: 1° 20' W., to 0° 40' W., to 0° 05' W., to 1° 35' W., to 1° 10' W., to 2° 40' W., small concentrated mass over the observatory: 1° 50' W., to 2° 50' W., to 2° 0' W., narrow arch from N. E. to zenith: 2° 50' W., slowly to 1° 50' W., much slower to 2° 50' W., 1° 30' W., to 2° 00' W., a bright beam expanded into a narrow horizontal mass, 10° high, from east to west: 1° 40' W. to 2° 05' W., beams from S. E. to N. N. E.: 1° 25' W. to 1° 45' W., some round patches from E. to N. W.: needle stsady a few seconds, then moved to 1° 20' W., to 1° 45' W., 1° 36' W., steady again, then to 2° 12' W., to 1° 50' W., to 2° 05' W., slowly to 1° 54', to 1° 10' W., to 2° 05' W., to 1° 30' W., to 1° 40' W., where it remained steady fifteen seconds, and changed to 1° 38' W., to 1° 40' W., to 1° 35' W., to 1° 45' W., stationary at 1° 20' W., and finally settled very slowly at 1° 00' W. The time was then 17h. 54m. 15s., making an elapsed time of 24m. 15s. On returning to the house, I remarked the total disappearance of the aurora, with the exception of a filmy light at E. b. N., and W. With it had vanished the dense covering of tlie sky, which APPENDIX. 433 iience may rly entirely 9 above the the hitter a wliich, as I e eastward, keel it at 5" the aurora; I, 1 saw the K., to 1° 20' mass darted f the sky at I west, ])ass- a hiji;h hori- 1., 2° 15' K., a beam shot •anches, ex- 00' E. to 1° )' E., a large E., concen- eedle nearly 50' E. to 2° loved slowly 0 0° 30' W., ddenly at 0° ., to 00° 00', V,,toO° 40' 0' W., small r., to 2° 50' : 2° 50' W., 0' W., to 2° zontal mass, , beams from mnd patches en moved to len to 2° 12' 1° 10' W., it remained 1° 40' W., and finally n 17h. 54m. sappearance . b. N., and e sky, which was now of a dark blue colour, and studded with twinkling stars. The thermometer in the air was — 22^°, and in tlie observatory — 16°, and there was a liglit bree/,e from W. N. W. At llh. there was no aurora. January I4th. — At 9h. a. m. mean of thermometers — 59°; the sky clear in the /.enith, but misty about the horizon. Needle 0° 58' E., sligiitly vibrating. As tiie sun rose above the adjacent moun- tain, it began to move between 1° 40' and 50' E. At lOh. p. m. thermometer — 55°, sky deep blue, weather calm. The aurora was generally dift'used from rays at N.W. b. N., and E. b. S. to an attenuated arcli across the zenith, emanating from N.E. b. E., and extending to W. But from vue same point, and as far as due east, rose a clear serpentine beam which took a southerly direc- tion at an angle of 25°, and terminated in an obtuse point at W. S. W., 3° high. Some wreaths, and four very singularly shaped beams, were for a time apparently stationary at E. N. E. and E., the latter were almost at right angles to the arch. The needle was perfectly teady at 0° 12' E., but on returning to the house, 1 could not avoid remarking a dull reddish beam that darted up from E. b. N., and to which the others near it seemed attracted. It increased in brightness at its nearest poiiit to the horizon, which was about 8° high. The western part of the arch previously mentioned became faint, and though distinctly percep- tible, yet it was evident by its streaming towards the red beam that it was concenti;fiting at the cast. I immediately returned to the needle, and found it had cimnged from 0° 12' E. to 0° 24' E., where it remainp.l, as did the aurora also in the same place. January I5th. — At Ih. p. m., on looking at the needle it ap- peart-a ^o be stationary at 0° 8' W., but on continuing to Iook, without altering my position, I could detect it moving with the utmost steadiness, and so gently as would have escaped common observation: it was a full minute in retrograding to 0° 00', and it again advanced to 0° 5' W. The weather was almost calm, or there might be said to be the lightest air from E. N. E.; the sky was blue, perfectly clear, and the sun so bright, as to make 16° difference between the thermometer exposed to its rays and those in the shade, which were — 46°. As I wished to convince my- self if my own person had not caused the motion, though I could not see how it should, since the motion was horizontal, and my position was in almost a direct line with the axis of the needle, I applied my finger to the glass immediately before and pn a level with the needle, and the instantaneous effect was that of a violent perpendicular, or what I have hitherto called a tremulous, action, which dipped half the depth of the needle below the graduated 55 !' 11 m 434 APPKNUIX. *-'lt. P'M mm '' ' , ,1 mil arc of the itistniineiit. Thn tl'nl not afiect tl»c lOiuling, wliich "vvas still tlie same, viz. 0° 5' W. It may be observeil, tluit the lute intense col ' ' A chapped my haiulM to a painful jlej^ree, but 1 had gieased them a few hours pre- vious to obs^'fving the needle. F.ibruary 9th. — At lOh. '20ni. r. m. the sky was almost entirely covered with coruscatioi's; but the most con; picuous was a broaJ serpentine and bri;:;lit arch extending;- from K. b. N. to W. b. S., and aloiij"- .• hich there iij)peared at times to be two currents in ac- tiv • motion IVom opi)Osite points. I foui d the needle vibrating steadily as follows: — 0° ^0' K., motion of aurora from W. to E.: 0" 05' K., motion W.: 0° 20' W., unduhiting motion W.: 0° 05' VV., OO'' 00', motion W. to E. across the zenith: O'^ 20' E., a bright arch at E., 10" broad: 0° 10' E., slight motion over the -zenith, then the motion vvas from W. to the 7.1 nith, 00" 00': serpentine motior across zenith from W. to E., 0" 40' E., 0" 30' E.: motion over zenith, 0" 10' E.: motion from AV. to E., not beyond . nith, 00° 00'. The broad arch no^r moved southerly, ar an angle (»f 80°, I'nd at the same time here was a bright mass at S.E., 0° 20' E.: Hashes Hitting suddenly be- tween S. E. and E., 0° 10' E., 1° ^0' E. Motion over zenith from W. to E., 0° 20' E. to 1° 00' E., gene- rally diffused and very active: an undulating mass at N. E. 2° 30' to 0° 20' E.: briglit mass at S.E., 0° 40' E. to 0° 20' E ,: gene- rally diffused but still bright at S.E., 0° 10', V/.: beams at W. 0° 25' W.: beams at N. E., 00° 00': serperxtine waving across zenith from W. to E., in an arch, 00° 00' to 0° 25' E.: 00° 00', mass westward. Mass at W., extending easterly, with a rapid motion from W. to E., 1° 00' E., to 0° 30' E., 1° 10' E., to 0° 35' E.: a bright mass at E., 1° 2(>' E.: motion W. to E., 1° 00' to 00^ 30' E., 1° 30' E. to 0° 35' E.: a wuving band, motion over zenith, little motion, 0° 20' E.: patches generally diffused, 00° 00'. Corona at zenith, which cliaiiged into six figures, each similar to the letter S, presenting the appearance of so many snakes twisting with amazing swiftness, 00" 00' to 0° 15' W.: no motion, 0° 05' E.: patches W. to E., southerly, 0° 35' E,, 0" 30' E.: no motion, 0° 20' E., stationary. Elapsed time, 32m. At the ter- mination, tlr aurora was generally diffused N. and S.; streaky, motionleas and dull. Thermometer — 37-^°; calm; sky, blue. February 10th. — At lOh. p. m. there was an extremely brilliant arch, of a serpentine form, extending from W. by S. to E. by N., but there was no motion, and the needle was unaffected beyond 10', viz. from 0° 40' to 0° 30' E. At llh. lOm., however, the au- rora assumed an amazing variety of forms, though the most im- APPENDIX. '13; iling, which happed my V hours pre- lOHt entu-ely vaH a brojul to \V. b. S., [•rents in ac- —0° 20' K., ,: 0° 20' W., , to E. across \: 0° 10' K., from \V. to from W. to ' Fi.: motion tail arch no at Hi time here suddenly be- 00' E., gene- i at N. E. 2° 2,0' E, ; gene- ims at W. 0^ across zenith )0" 00', mass ion from W. a bright mass E., 1° 30' E. le motion, 0° Mch similar many snakes no motion, 0^ 30' E.: no At the ter- S.; streaky, sky, blue, mely brilliant . to E. by N., ected beyond vever, the au- the most im- posing was a fringed and zig-zagM undulating arch, composed of numberless liright rays in tlie direction of llie dipping needle, but Hitting with incredible swiftness in a lateral direction from W. to K. From 0° 40' E. to 0° 05' \V., motion W. to E.: 1° 0' E., 0° 20' K., 00° 00', no visible motion: 0' 20', motion E. to W.: 0° 30' E. to 00° 5' \\\, rays appearing and disappearing, motion W. to E.: 0° 25' W., 0° 15' E., motion E. to \V .: 0" 20' K. to 0° 1 8' W., no motion: 0° 05' W., waving arch S. \V. to E.: 0° 45' W., 0° 55' VV., U° 40', bright arch S. E., generally dirt'used: needle remained stationary 5^.: 0° lo' E. 00° 00', little movement of needle, faint corona at zenith: 0° 08' VV., 0° 30' W., 0° 25' W., slowly to 0° 40' W., 0° 45' W., arch W. to E., at an angle of 30° northerly: 0° 45' W., almost stationary, a beam S.: 0° 45' W., 0° 52' W., stationary: 0° 50' W., 0° 58' W., arch W. to E. b. N.: 0° 00' VV., steady. Elapsed time, 22m. Thermometer, air — 24°, in observatory — 13°; weather, calm; sky, blue. On going out from the needle, I observed the southern portion of the heavens to be more or less occupied by beams, and rays at right angles to them, or in the magnetic position of due north and south. But northwards, at an angle of 10" N. E., was a bright waving double band, which also formed a part of the same original arch that expended from E. N. E. to W. b. S. The increasing brilliancy of the double band induced me to revisit the noedie, supposing that 1 should find it somewhere near 00° 00' or zero; but, so far from this, it had not moved, and re- mained still steady at 0° 55' VV. : from it might be inferred a negativ(i or repulsive action, in opposition to our former opinions, mentioned in Fianklin's last narrative, of an attractive or posi- tive action to the nearest situated aurora. The brightness of the band remained the same on my return to the house. March 8th. — For many days past the needle has evinced a rest- lessness and vibrating action corrcspondiug to its motion when affected by the aurora; but as in some cases it has changed its position, though with less acceleration, after the sun has risen, and become stationary after it had set, I h?ve been at a loss to accoujit for its unusual activity, the whole of these tweiity-four hours in particulai , except by supposing the invisible presence of the aurora in full day. The sky was blue and clear, with a few clouds of fleecy white- ness, and at each time of observing, I found it impossible to de- tect the faintest moving substance in the heavens; still, however, the needle kept constantly making unequal arcs, and I watched it in the hope of seeing it assume some fixed ])oint, until I was fairly tired out. At Th. p. m., it being "twilight gray,'' but with I 436 APPENDIX. ilf 1 III a purplish blue tint over head, a very faint reddish aurora could be with ilifticulty distin^uiHhed. This became more clear as the lii<>;ht darkened, and at 9h. 54iu. OOh. i>. m., Home cloudn at S.W. and K. were illuminated exactly similur to the etfect produced by the moon when rising. The needle was agitated, and moved only 15' backward and forward insomuch that I told Mr. King, who was 'vaiting oMtside the observatory, that there was no occasion for him to stay^ but when I was about to return to the house, I Serceived some very thin filmy rays flit with great swiftness from . S. W., at a curve of 18°, to E. b. S.: here they became united with the illumined part, which they seemed to set into imme- «liate and violent motion; at the same instant the S. fS. W.fjuarter was left in darkness, while the eastern glowed in one brilliunt mass of whirling aurora. Having called to Mr. King, I ran to the needle, which was moving very quickly to the eastward. It went from 0° 10' E, at once to 2° 0' E., to 2° 15' E., to 3° 10' E., arch E. to S. W. across the zenith: 2° 40' to 2° 05' E., beam fS. W.: 2° 50', luminous in the south: 3° 10' E., arch E. to H. W., motion S. \V. to E.: 3° 00' to 3° 18', arch E. to S. W. over zenith: 1° 55' E., arch in motion S. W. to E. over zenith, 1°|30' E.: arch S. W. to N. E. across zenith, 3° 25' E.: 2° 20' E., 3° 15' E., arch S. "W. to E. over zenith, and another S. W. to S. E., at an angle of 80°: 3° 30' E. to 2° 10' E., 4° 00' E., 2° 15' E., arch over zenith: 1° 55' E., motion S. W. to E.: 1° 20' E., 2° 10' E., 1" 40' E., 2° 40' E., 1° 40' E., 4° 10', motion W. to N. E. : 3° 3C' E. to 3° 50' E., 2° 30' E., motion due E. along the same arch: 0° 55' E., 1° JO' E., 0° 35' E., 1° 50' E., 0° 30' E., I'' 25' E., 0° 10' W., 1° 15' E., 0° 05' E., 1° 28' E., a very irregular arch S. W. to E., atan angle of 45°: 0° 20' E., 0° 40' W., 00° 00', 1° 40' W., 1° 40' W.. 1° 00' W., 1° 50' W., 1° 10' W., lumi- nous appearances generally difl;used in patches: 0° 30' W., bright at W. S. W. : 1° 00' E., a concentrated mass at the zenith, mo- tion southerly to the horizon: 0° 50' E., 00° 00', the mass travel- ling south: 0° 20' E., 0° 10' W., 0*" 20' E., 0° 10' W., 0° 25' E., 0° 08' W., 0° 20' E., 0° 28' W. faint, no motion: 0° 10' W., 0° 40' W., 0° 20' W., 0° 50' E., 1° 00' E., mass VV. S. W.: 0° 50' E., when it was stationary five seconds, and then moved slowly to 0° 40' E., 0° 50' E., stationary five seconds, 0° SO' E.^ 0° 45' E., 0° 30' E., 0° 50' E., luminous appearance S. S. E.: 0° 28' E., 0° 12' W., luminous appearance from S. S. E. to E. S. E., at an angle of 15°: 0° 05' E., 0° 35' E., 0° 15' E., 0° 40' E., 0° 50' E., 0° 40' E., 0° 55' E., 0° 40' E., 1° 00' E., light appearances from W. to N., overcast: 0° 30' E., 0° 40' E., 0° 20' E., 0° 30' E., 0° 05' E., 0° 25' E., 0° 20' E. Here I finished, and, on going out, found the sky overcast, though some few stars were just APPKNDTX. 't;i7 rora could U'ur as {\w iHUtS.W. loilucetl by Moved only King, who to occasion lie house, I Itness from anic united into imnu'- W. quarter me brilliant ig, I ran to itward. It o 3° 10' K., E., beam S. ',. to S. W. , S. W. »)ver ?nith, lY'O' •° 20' E., 3° W. to S. K., .,2° 15' E., ° 20' E., 2'^ ation W. to E. along the , 0° 30' E., ry irregular W., 00° 00', W., lumi- W., bright zenith, mo- nass travel- , 0° 25' E., 10' w..o° W.: 0° 50' jved slowly ' Ey 0° 45' 0° 28' E., S. E., at an , 0° 50' E., ranees from 0° 30' E., , on going were just visible. The aurora was then so laiiif, that the iVeble light I'rom a lantern with one nane of glass prevented my seeing it; but, as th sti moti I natt dtl must acing a very tem- eedle was be some cause for it, and having conn the lantern under my cloak, I could the fdmy arch at S. W., which, however, soon vanished. The |}erature outside was — 14", inside —4°; calm, overcast. Time at beginning, IGh. 09m. OOs. ending 16 33 40 Interval 00 24 40 April 4th. — For the last three weeks the appearance of the aurora has been faint, and with comparatively little motion. The needle in consequence has been less attected in the extent of the sum of its arcs, though, as may be seen by a reference t<» the register, it has seldom been completely stationary. Sometimes I have remarked a quick vibratory motion of uneciual arcs during the day, the extremes of which will be found to be always noted in their proper colours; at others, a much weaker action has been exerted, when the needle has remained a few seconds at its ex- treme eastern or western limit, then receded perhaps 10', ad- vanced 5', and again deflected bey(md its zero: and, finally, there are times when its motion is so slow, even, and regular, that a hasty observer would undoubtedly consider it to be steady? though, by keeping the eye to the telescope, it will be seen to alter its position 5' or 8', but, as I have just remarked, with such an extremely gentle action, that it might easily escape detection. At lOh. p. M. this day, I was struck by an unusual brightness of the snow when I went out of the house, and on turning round perceived that it was the effect of a brilliant arch extending from the N. E. to the opposite horizon. The sky was of a pale blue, the stars visible, but a thin veil of mist ilimmed their brightness. ' At I6h. 24m. OOs. the needle showed the following differ- ences:—From 1° 40' E. to 1° 30' E., arch E. to S. W., across the zenith: 1° 38' E., 1° 45' E., concentrated mass at the zenith, and patches E. to S. W.: 1" 20' E., 1° 45' E., bright at S. S. E.: 1° 55' E., 1° 51' E., arch E. to zenith: 1° 30', arch E. to W. at an angle of 10° (southerly): 1° 30' E., 1° 45' E., corona at the zenith: 1° 40' E., convolving circular mass at E., 1° 30' E., mass travelling S. W.: 1° 40' E., steady for a few seconds, bands ge- nerally diffused: 1° 50', bright to the eastward: 2° 00' E., 2° 05' E., slight motion S. W. to E., 2° 25' E.: serpentine motion over the zenith: brighter to the westward, 1° 30' E., 1° 40' E.: a waving arch over the zenith E. to W., travelling S. W. at an altitutfe of 45°, 2° 5' E.: motion S. W., a circular band, 1° 55' E.: N. W. bright, 1° 30' E., 1° 45' E.: an arch from N. W. to 438 APPENDIX. S. VV. at an angle of 40°, 1° 25' E., 1° 40' E. : motion westvvaru, 1° 20' E.: 10 12' E., 1° 50' E., an arcli from N. E. to the zenith, 2° 15' E., 2" 0' E., 2" 20' E.: mass westerly, 2° 0' E.: the needle now became very tremulous, 1° 45' E., 1° 15' E.: a mass faint to the W., 1" 35' E., 1° 20' E., 1° 38' E., 1° 28' E., 1° 42' E., 1° 25' E., 1° 35' E.: mass brightening to the westward, 1° 10' E., r 20' E., 1° 02' E.: mass W. 8. VV. to N., at an angle of 30°, 1° 12' E., 1° 08' E., 1° 45' E., 1° 20' E., 1° 35' E., 1° 10' E., 1° 28' E., 0° 58' E., 1° 15' E., 0° 48' E., 0° 55' E., 0° 20' E.: a small patch at S. E., 0° 15' E., 0° 05' E., 0 15' E., 0° 05' E., 0° 20' E., 0° 04' W.: 0° 40' W., the sky was overcast; the little of the aurora that was discernible was very faint and without mo- tion: 0° 12' W., 0° 48' W., bands at S. E.: 0° 10' W., generally diffused, 0° 05' W., 0° 25 W., 0° 08' W., patches S. W. and S. E.: 0° 50' E., 0° 28' E., this last vibration was very slow, arch passing from E. S. E. to W. S. W. across the zenith: 0° 10' E., where it became steady, and the aurora faded away. Time at beginning iGh. 52m. 20s. ending 16 24 00 28 20 of observatory, 17. Interval Temperature of the air, + ^°; of observatory, 17. Sky, pale- blue, misty; weather, calm. I may mention that the needle in- variably moved easterly or westerly some seconds before Mr. King could perceive any change in tlie aurora; and which fre- cjuently occasioned me to call out, "I'm sure there must be some- thing moving," ''Look S. AV." &c., and as frequently Iiave I had an answer, "There is nothing but a faint beam S. W., E.," &c.; which, in point of fact, was probably the very cause of the excite- ment of tlie needle. I should not have stated this daily occur- rence, except for the purpose of showing theliice delicacy of the instrument, and the difficulty the outside observer will always have in detecting the first motion of the aurora. November 7th. — The needle had been vibrating all day until 7h. p. M., when it became steady at 9h.45m.: however, the whole sky was more or less covered with .aurora, in the form of beams, spiral and fringed bands, rays, and brilliant masses, which latter Hitted to the opposite extremes of W. S. W. and E. b. N. alter- nately, and not unfrequently made tangential movements from near the zenith to N. and S.; a few streaky but extremely attenu- ated narrow clouds were in a position across the zenith, and a black mass was slowly rising from the westward. On visiting the needle, I found it in rapid motion from 2° 00' W. to 3° 40' W., to 4° 10' W., to 4° 00' VV., a beam shot up from S. VV.: 9° 30' VV. Hitting moticm E. and W.: a mass rose from the western horizon to 70° altitude, 1" 50' W.: a bright mass westward, 2° APPKNDIX. 439 vvestwaru , the zenith, the needle iss faint to 42' E., 1° 1° 10' E., le of S0°, 1° 10' E., ' 20' E.: a 05' E., 0° lie little of ithout ino- , generally S. W. and slow, arch 0° 10' E., Sky, pale- needle in- )efore Mr. wiiich fre- \i be some- iave I had E.," &c.; le excite- \y occur- acy of the "11 always day until ;l\e whole of beams, lich latter N. alter- ents front y attenu- ith, and a •n visiting to 3" 40' W.: 2^ e western 4tward, 2° 40' W.: which afterwards formed a fringed band from N. to W.: arch from S. to /.enith, 1° 50' W.: to 2° 30' W., beams from a W. to '/.enith: 1° 40' W., a brisiht beam S.: faint luminous mass motion N. to W.: 2° 40' W., 1° 30' W, 2° 40'' VV., aurora faint: slight motion S. W., 1° 50' W. : mass VV., 2"^ 30' W., 1° 50' W., 2° 10' W., 1° 35' W., beam north: 2° 00' W., 1° 32' W., no aurora westerly: 1° 30' W., 2" 10' W., a beam N.: 1° 40' W., 2° 00' W., 2° 40' W., a baud E. toN. : 2° 00' W., to 2° 50' W., 3° 05' W., 2° 40' W., 3° 05' W., an irregular fringed band from 10° to 20° altitude, with a movement from E. to W. : 3° 05' W., faint: 2° 40' W., 3° 20' W., pencilled rays at E. b. N., motion E. and W. alternately: 3° 00' W., 2° 50' VV., 2° 20' W., 2° 45' W., bright at N.: 2° 30' W., 2° 55' W., 2° 35' W., 3° 00' W., 2° 50' W., to 3° 00' W. a bright band from E. to N. stationary, become taint: 2° 35' AV., motion E. to N.: 2° 40' W., 2° 30' VV., needle steady: a faint band E. N. E. to E.. moving slowly between 2° 30' W., and 3° 00' W.: a small band at E., at an angle of 15°, 2° 40' VV., 2° 22' W., 2° 30' W.: a cloud from W. gradually obscured the band, 2° 00' VV., 1° 50' W., 2° 05' W., r 48' W., 2° 00' VV., 1° 45' W., 1° 52' W., 1° 40' W., needle tremulous, 1° 30' W., E. b. N. to N. E., at an angle of 15° only: a patch N. E. on bli sky, 1° 25' VV., 1° 10' VV., stationary at 1° 05' W. , band disappeared. The stars were bright in the clear spaces, but not visible in the aurora. Time at beginning 15h. 57m. 05s. ending 16 19 00 Interval 21 55 Thermometer, observatory, -f 26°, air, + 27°. Wind S. W. 5. At 16h. 40m. 00s. the sky was overcast, no stars, but eight lumi- nous spots were seen at N., at an angle of 15°, and a luminous horiy.;>n at W. S. W. November 21st. — The needle had been steady the greater part of the day, and at lOh. p. m. it was 0° 12' E. At midnight the coruscations presented a beautiful appearance of concentr'c pen- cilled wreaths, convolving near the zenith; while fringed and undulating bands, composed of innumerable small rays, flitted from W. b. N. to E. At the last point they would sometimes concentrate into one brilliant radiating mass, and in an instant shoot out into multiform and eccentric shapes towards the zenith, while vivid rays of a perceptible deep red and yellow colour danced in spiral lines to the opposite horizon. On going to the ■ observatory, the needle was in active motion; I found it at 0° 30' W., the principal mass of aurora being also in that quarter; the motion of some rays at the time being from VV. to E. It succes- sively changed from 0° 30' W., to 0° 50' W., to 0° 15' W.: a ■1 ■- ' I 440 APPENDIX. kliifX W i'f bright irregular arch from W. to zenith, 0° 50' W.: many rays and flashes at E., 1° 0' W. to 0° 30' W., to 1° 10' W: a bright mass at W., but without motion, 1° 40' W. to 1° 45' W. : mass in motion from W. to xenith, 1° 0' W., to 1° 30' W. : a faint irregu- larly fringed arch, extending from E. across the zenith to S. W., 0° 40' W. to 1° 25' W. to 0° 52' W., a faint mass without motion from W. to S. W., 0° 45' W., 1° 05' W.: concentric arches from W. to zenith, 0° 35' W., 0° 50' W., to 0° 30' W.: a faint irregular mass from W. to S. W„ 0° 30' W., to 0° 55' W., 0° 40' W., 0° 55' W., to 0° 40' W., 0° 55' W., and rested at 0° 40' W. Time at beginning 18h. 07m. OOs. ending 18 14 30 Interval 7 30 Thermometer, observatory, -f 22°, air, -f- 25°j wind S. W. 6.; weather clear, moon visible. December 3d. — The needle had been steady all day, and at 7h. p. M. it was 0° 08' E. At lOh. p. m. there was a bright display of the aurora in the form of undulating bands, composed principally of connected rays, and many beams as well as flashes were plen- tifully dispersed. The needle moved from 20' W., to 1° 00' W., rays over the zenith: to 0° 20' W., motion W. to E.: 0° 15' E., to 0° 05' E., to 0° 30' E., to 0° 00', mass W. to E. : an arch over zenith, 0° 22' E. : a serpentine arch over zenith, 0° 28' E., 0° 00': a bright band over zenith, 0° 15' E. to 0° 12' W.: some bright beams from W., 0° 20' W.: mass W.toE., 0° 00' to 0° 25' W.: needle steady at 0° 20' W.: briglit at extremes of band W. and E., 0° 55' W.:- bright at W., 1° 20' W.: rays flitting from W. to N., 1° 30' W.: bright mass from W. to N., 1° 25' W. to 0° 56' W.: beams in active motion all round, and bright at \V. 1° 15' W., serpentine arch over zenith: mass from N. towards zenith at an angle of 60°, 0° 30' W. to 1° 00' W.: motion W. to E., and E. to W., 0° 20' W.: to 0° 45' W.: motion W. to E., 0° 55' W.: bright mass at E., 0° 25' W. to 0° 50' W.: motion W. to E., 0° 38' W., to 1° 00' W., to 0° 35' W., to 0° 55' W.: bright rays N. W., 1° 20' W.: arch W. to S., 0° 55' W. to 1° 10' W., to 0° 45' W.: arch W. to S. E. over zenith, 0° 42' W.: bright mass at E., 0° 40' W., 0° 32' W., to 0° 45' W., generally dittused, and steady at 2° 40' W. Time at beginning, 16h. 09m. OOs. ending, 16 21 30 Interval, 12 30 Thermometer, observatory, — 27°) air, — 38°. Weather, calm and fine. December 18th. — At lOh. p. m., on going to the needle, which, from its having been steady at zero at 4n. v. M.jJindat 0° 10' r^" '>.! ► n't APPENDIX. 441 W. at 7h. p. M., I expected to ftnd at zero again, I was surprised to observe, on the contrary, that it was at 1° 50' W., from which it moved to 1° 25' W., and then continued to vibrate gently be- tween that and 1° 55' W. The sky was perfectly clear, with the exception of a horizontal light cloud due N., but which had not the appearance of those dark gray or light filmy clouds, that seemed on certain occasions to influence the needle. The moon was bright, and as I had, according to custom, looked carefully for aurora without detecting any, before entering the observatory, I was the more puzzled to account for such an eccentric move- ment in the needle, without any apparent disturbing cause. At the moment it occurred to me, that the clear shining of the moon, which was at N. E., and the fineness of the night altogether might prevent me from distinguishing any rays or beams that might nevertheless be flitting about. I therefore looked again from different points around the observatory, but without perceiving the least vestige of aurora, and consequently thought it might be attributable to the continuance of the westerly wind; for during its prevalence, for three days past, the needle had shown a dis- position to keep to that quarter: but on getting in the dark shade of the house on my return, I immedirtely saw two reddish rays and a long slender beam at S. W. projecting towards tiie zenith, neither of which was visible in the moonlight or out of the shade. This appeared to answer for the deflection of the needle, and to give some clue to its frequent disturbance during the day, as has been already noticed. December 21st. — The needle had been moving almost all day, the weather extremely cold to the sensation owing to a fresh breeze from S. W. , attended by a gloomy and misty atmosphere. There was more or less aurora at 7h. p. m., and lOh., but at mid- night it exhibited one of the most brilliant appearances I ever remember to have witnessed, displaying at the same time a remarkably deep /ffA;e-coloured tinge, that became graduated into orange and faint yellotv, which seemed to vanish into ^a.\c-tvhite. To give any thing like a correct idea of phenomena perpetually altering their form, and presenting several striking appearances at the same instant of time, must be obvious, though perhaps it may be requisite to state that there were two connecting points at £. and W. b. S., from and to which the gi-eat current flowed in various shaped arches, fringed and irregular or composed of rays, or beams, or streaming in a quick and regular flow, or mov- ing in spirals, or, lastly, ti\rown into collateral parts, wiiich of a sudden would dart at a tangent towards the northern or southern horizon, become dispersed into separate, and to the eye uncon- M ') 1 56 44a APPENDIX. nected parts, and then with the speed of thought concentrate once more at W. and E. The needle I found moving with a velocity that must have taken it agctnst the sides of the instrument, had not a counter- influence in the rapid and eccentric tracks of the aurora pre- vented it. I wtnt from 0° 30' E., to 1° 00' E., to 0° 40' E., 1° 00' W., 0° 00' to 0° 40' W.: bright at W. 0° 5' W.: motion at W., 0° 20' E.; moving N. from W., 0° 00'; motion across the zenith from VV. to E., 0° 30' W., 0° 00'; bright bands from W. to E., 0° 40' E., 0° 15' W.; motion westerly, 0° 20' E., 0° 30' W., 0° 30' E, 0° 10' W., motion W. to E., 0° 20' E,, 0° 5' E., dead stop, 0° 55' E., 0° 10' E., 0° 30' E., 0° 8' W. : motion N. W. N. to E. 0° 38' E., 0° 5' W., 0° 30' E., 0° 0', 0° 35' E.; a wav- ing arch over zenith: spiral beams from E. to W., and laterally to the northern and southern horizons, 0° 10' E. to 0° 20' W., 0° 32' W.. 0° 05' W., 0° 20' W., 0° 32' W., 0° 20' W., C" 40' W., 1° 00' W. motion, W. 0° 55' W., 0° 10' W., 0° 40' W., 0° 20' W.; bright at W. and N., 0° 15' W.; motion W. to E., 1° 00' W., 0° 35' W., 1° 00' W.; motion W., 0° 15' W.; motion E. to W. 0° 55' W.; a flitting motion over zenith to E., 0° 20' W., 0° 50' W.; motion N., 0° 20' \V., 0° 48' W., 0° 20' W., 0° 55' W., rays W., 0° 40' W., 0° 55' W.; motion W. to E., 0° 18' W., 0° 20' W., 0° 10' W.; motioii W. to N., 0° 30' W.; no motion per- ceptible, 0° 05' E., 0° 05' W., 0° 05' E., 0° 10' W.; bright at W., 0° 02' E., 0° 32' W.; motion at W., 0° 10' W., 0° 25' W., 0° 10' W., 0° 15' W., 0° 10' W. Time at be^inninsr 18h. 10m. 18 26 16 00s. 00 00 -26°, air, — 46°, calm and clear; ending Interval Thermometer, observatory, moon bright, and a dark-blue sky. Aurora apparently low. December 22nd. — The day had been cold and misty, and the needle was more or less agitated, having been steady but twice. At lOh. p. M. the aurora was bright even through the mist, and was generally diffused N., S., E., and W., though bands of quickly moving rays were travelling westerly at the time I was entering the observatory. The needle was vibrating from 3° 30' W. to 4° 40' W., aurora became concentrated, with a southerly motion, 3° 55' W., 4° 00' W.: an irregular m?°s in motion from S. to W., and a thick mist came on, 3° 10' W. ;iiiass seen through the mist at E., 3° 30' W.: a faint band with rays from S. E. to W., at an angle of 60°, passing southerly, 3° OO'^W. ; a band N. W. to E., 2° 40' E.: motion f^. to W., 2° faints. W. to W., 1° 55' W., 1 0° 05' W.; a band N. W. to N. 50' W., 2° 20' W., 1° 55' W.: ' 20' W., r 30' W., 1° 10' w., E., 0° 15' W. faint appearance ArPENDIX. 44'3 at S., 0° 00', 0° 20' W., 0° 30' W. The brij^litening when, from my fingers being nearly lroz.e;i, I was aurora was again obliged to leave off. Time at beginning iGh. 15m. TjOs. ending IG 24 00 Interval 8 30 Thermometer, observatory, — 14°, air, — 52°. Calm and misty. December 23d. — There had been aurora all the evening, and at lOh. p. M. the needle was in slight motion at 0° 40'. VV. At midnight the aurora was generally diffused; the principal stream being at E., and extending almost across tiic /-enith to W. b. S. It flowed in three distinct bands, wliich separated or forked into three others, whose faint extremities expanded 20°, and were there joined by an irregular band of rays that completed ti.^^ semi-circle. The needle moved from 1° 40' W. to 2° 20' W.; bright at S. W., 1° 55' W., 2° 15' W., 1° 58' W.; motion W. N. "W. to S. E., 2° 12' W., 1° 55' W., 2° 10' W.; faint mass at S. W., 1° 57' W., 2° 05' W., 1° 50' W.J spiral band N. E. to E., 2° 00' W., 1° 55' W., 1° 58' W., 1° 48' W., 1° 55' W., 1° 48' W., 1° 55' W.: motion N. to E., 1° 48' W., 1° 55' W., 1° 48' W. Time at beginning, 17h, 59m. 00s. ending 18 03 30 Interval 24 40 Temperature, observatory, — 49°, air, —58°. Calm, blue sky, and misty. December 25tli.— At 9h. a. m. the needle was vibrating in the same manner as when the aurora was present; and tlie sky was clear, except an arch of very streaky and filmy clouds which extended from \V. across the zenith to E. The resemblance to the coruscations was perfect, but I could not detect any motion; yet the needle indicated such; for it varied in the readings be- tween 0° 30' E. and 0° 55' E. at noon: a light mass of cloud remained at E. b. S. ; the sun was bright, about 3° 30' higli, and a light breeze prevailed from K. b. N. (true); still the needle was moving between 1° 10' E. and 1° 30' E. Thermometer, obser- vatory, — 331°, air, — 37°, sun, 36. January 1 2th. — There was a caj^m nearly all day, the weather sometimes clear, sometimes overcast, and the needle had been found always vibrating slowly and unequally. At lOh. p. m. the moon was dimly seen through the gray haze that overcast the sky: it bore E. I found the needle moving at 1° 00' E., and immedi- ately ran out, but could not detect any aurora, except by a soft- ened flaky appearance for a moment at S. E.,at an angle of about 45°; on my return, the needle was still vibnting at 1° 20' E., from which it went at once to 7° 50' E., the farthest I ever 444 APPENDIX. saw; it then returned to 0° 40' R., to 6^ 00' R., to 6" 20' R., to 4° 50' R., to 5° 00' R., to 1° 30' R., to 2° 25' R., to 1° 05' R., to 2° 00' R., to r 25' R., to 2° 55' R., to 2° 12' R., lo 3° 00' R., to 2° 10' R., to 2° 00' R., to 1° 40' R., to 20 12' j:., to 0° 50' R., to 0° 30' W., to 0° 02' W., to 0° 20' W., to 0° 30' R., 0° 20' R., 1° 00' R., 0° 30' R., 1° 20' R., 1° 05' R., 1° 15' R., 0° 50' R. 02' R., 0° 30' W. 35' R., 0° 00', 0° 40' W., 1° 00' W., 0° 40' W. 1° O'^ Time at beginning I6h. ending 16 Interval Thermometer, observatory, 09m. 00s. 20 00 11 00 ■17°, air,— 20°. Wind N. E. 2. Weather, overcast and hazy. The aurora was bright before it was overcast. February 1st. — The weather had been particularly fine and clear all day, though the needle had been either slowly moving, or tremulous, or swaggirig, which I term agitated. The sun was bright, and had the power to make a difference of 36° between the thermometer at the north and south sides of the observatory. At rh. p. M. there was a faint diffusion of aurora, apparently high, tiie needle was tremulous — 3° 02' W., but at lOh. p. m. the thermometer had sunk to 50° and the aurora presented the most brilliant appearance I ever saw at so low a temperature: the main stream rose in a narrow but vivid column at E. b. N., and after making a z.ig-z,ag bend to E., pursued a direction to W. in an undulating arch 70° N. : but from the westward there were no loss than seven distinct parts of arcs, issuing from another condensed column, of a dull red and orange mixed with yellow. These arcs had an altitude from 20° to 50°, stretching towards the S. R., where I observed several bright rays: all of those E. and W. were more or less tinged with the colour I have men- tioned, but bcyo id, or what 1 should denominate higher, were many cold white filmy rays or bands. On examination I found the needle strangely acted on, which was shown by the quickness and sudden checks or dead stops it exhibited, according to the current and counter-current ot the prevalent band or stream. One fact I was glad to ascertain, viz. that the marked end of the needle was at 1" 20' W., when the most powerfully concentrated aurora was at*E. b. N. (magnetic), both rising into arcs, the former (northerly) to W. at an angle of 60°, the latter (southerly) faintly to S. W. Finding that the needle only vibrated at differ- ent arcs between 0° 50' and 1° 20' W., I went out to watch the motion of the aurora, when it underwent, transitions of form, from streaming arches to spirals, zig-zag, convoluted, and inde- scribable bands of rays, and beams altogether so eccentric and iS^K APPENDIX. 445 20' R., t«» 05' R., to OO'E., to 50' E., to [)° 20' E., 50' E., 1° 10' W., 0" I N. E. 2. it before it y fine and ly moving, he sun was 5° between ibservatoiy. apparently ih. p. M. the jd the most irature: tlie , b. N., and »n to W. in there were im another ith yellow. |ng towards of those E. have men- ligher, were ion I found quickness Iding to the or stream. II end of the )ucentrated [o arcs, the (southerly) bd at differ- watch the IS of form, [, and inde- :entric and beautiful, as to exceed the visions of the most exuberant imagi- nation. Coronae were frequent, and as every part was in rapid motion, it will be readily conceived it was no easy task to decide on the correct one; and all that was evident to me, may be simply called two currents in direct opposition, sometimes along double bands or arches, and as often existing in a single arch, though in the latter case I remarked that the paramount motion, if from the westward, for instance, did not cease until it had passed the zenith of its arc, and was encountered and borne away by a superior eastern current. In the midst of these con- flicting phenomena I ran to the needle, and found it almost steady as regarded the minute, which was 0° 45' \V., but so tremulous (seesawing perpendicularly) that it dipped (by esti- mation) full 10' of the graduated arc of the instrument. On going out" again the appearances had changed, but were still brilliant, and more spread between E. b. N. and S. E. The two currents, however, were still obvious, and though the aurora was what I should say comparatively high to what it had been on other occasions, yet it not only excluded the stars, which it may be remarked were previously particularly bright, but when visi- ble it made them appear to be at an immense distance. On the other hand, their twinkiiiig suffered only partially from the inter- Iiosition of the pale and flaky aurora which was evidently much ligher than the principal streams; and it may not be out of place to mention, that had I been unacquainted with the locality, I should have positively averred that I heard a whizzing noise during the rapidity of the motion, but which noise I knew M'as the faint murmur of "Anderson's Fall" in the river to the N. W. On returning to the needle it had moved 0° 50' W., but was very tremulous, which may lead to a supposition that the same effect may be produced by a similar (though invisible) cause during the day; I mean, counter-currents of aurora. February 8tli. — At 9h. a. m. the needle was at 0° 37' E. agi- tated. The weather was clear, with a cloudless sky and bright sun, when at noon I found thf; needle in rapid motion from 2° 10' E. to 2° 50' E.. 2° 20' E., 2° 50' E., 2° 20' E., 2"' 40° E., 2° 10' E., 2° 00' E., 2° 10' E., 2° OO'E., very slow to 2° 20' E., 2° 08' E., 2° 25' E., 2° 15' E.. 2° 20' E., where it remained steady five seconds, then moved again to 2° 25' E., 2° 20' E., 2° SO' E., and slowly to 2° 28' E., quicker to 2° 35' E. , 2° 25' E., 2° 32' E., 2° 22' E., 2° 34' E., 2° 25' E., 2° 42' E., 2° 26' E., 2° 38' E., 2° 20' E., 2° 32' E., 2° 24' E., 2° 33' E., 2° 20' E., 2° 24' E., 2° 14' E., 2° 20' E., 2° 05' E., 2° 12' E., 2° 04' E., 2° 16' E., 2° 18' E., 2° 15' E., 2° 14' E., 2° 20' E., 2° 15' E., 2° 20' E., 2° 18' E., 2° 92' E., where it kept still moving, but very slowly. 446 APPENDIX. Time at l)on;innin<; Gli. nuliiij^ Interval Temperature, oliservatory, thinsj i)crcei)tible in the sky. I Om. 21 10 4()s. 10 30 ■9h°, air, — U", sun, -f 23"; iio- No.V Mdgnctical Ob^ ■ U>n)}u: During the progress of tlic expeili >. i!ve; y '>pportunitv was embraced ol' making the magnetical observation.; luisite lor tlie determination «)f tlie dip and of tiu'. variation of the needle, and of the terrestrial majyietic intensity. At Fort lleliance, such observations were repeated on several occasions; and a series of observations was also instituted for determining the diurnal va- riation of the needle, and for ascertaining how tar extraordinary changes in its direction might be attributable to the influence of the Aurora Horealis. These observ. tions have been pljiced in the hands of Professor Christie, who proposes discussing most of them in a paper shortly to be laid before tlie Royal Society. It will, therefore, be unne- cessary here to enter into their details. As, however, some of the immetliate results may be interesting, they are given in the fol- lowing tables. The Dip and Variation of the Magnetic Needle. The dip was determined by means of a small but accurate dipping instrument, by Dollond, having a needle three inches in length, resting upon hollow curved agates. For the purpose of placing the instrument into the magnetic meridian, there was an apparatus, consisting of a cross piece, with a point and ball in the form of the axis of the needle; and on the point was placed a small horizontal needle; and the instrument moved bodily round (the index for the horizontal circle being placed at zero), until the small needle was parallel to the divided or vertical circle. The instrument was then level- led in the usual manner; but in case any accident should have happened to the level, this operation could be' effected by the cross piece before described, for placing the instrument into the meridian; for as it acted upon the principles of the pendulum, the point at the bottom of the ball would show, by the division on the circle at 90°, the perpendicularity of the instrument, or the correct horizontal motion. APPENDIX. 447 ■ 23°; no- unlt^ was lite lor the LHuUe, ami ince, such a series of liurnal va- raordinary ittueiicc ot" [■ Professor per shortly , be unne- some of the in the fol- le. accurate inches in e magnetic loss piece, eecUe; and and the loriiontal as parallel then level- lould have ted by the it into the pendulum, ivision on ent, or the The dip was found at Fort Ileliancc in the usual manner, with needle No. 1., by takinjj; the means of several readiii;:;s, with the face «)f the needle to the face of the instrument, and with tiie face of the needle reversed, both with the face of the instrument east and with its face west; similar observations being made with the poles of the needle inverted: but in making observations for the dip with the needle No. 2., its poles were in no instance in- verted. If, then, we consider that tlie dip obtained with the needle No. 1. is the correct dip at Fort lieliance, it is evident that the dip deduced from the observations there with the needle No. 2. will re«[uire a small correction, in consecjuence of its centre of gravity not coinciding accurately with its axis; and the result obtained with this needle in all other cases will likewise recjuire a correc- tion, though not a constant one. Professor Christie, however, who proposes reducing these observations, and likewise tintse which were made for d< lermining the magnetic intensity, informs me, that for the observations from Fort Reliance to the sea, the amount of this correction will be very small, and seldom exceed- ing ten minutes. The dip of the needle at the several stations given in the Table I., is deduced by taking the mean of their readings. TABLE I. Cnntainwfr the observed Dip and Viiridtion of the Mdf^netic Nfcdic. Place of Observation. I.at. North. Long. West. Date of 01)ser- vution. Dip. a 3'./ Date of Observation. Variation. 0 r ft o ' /' 1833. o / No. O / // New YorU 40 42 07 74 01 .'5 .\pril 1 73 14 2 • 1S25 • 1 30 48 VV Montreal — April I'.l 77 4> 2 Fort Alexnndcr m ;«; ii) % 21 25 ,lune 10 7'.l 1-.; 2 . •15 15 11 K. C'uniberliuicl House 5:1 57 :v.\ 102 21 40 .luly 0 8ti i; I) . 10 14 21 E. Ue (1 1(1 Crosse riF) 'Sj 25 107 51 .r. •Inly 17 .80 35 •23 10 20 K. Fort (.'liipewyuii 58 12 ;)'-■ m I'J 00 .iuly 31 a I b'-i 2 . •25 20 37 !•;. I'orl Kusolutioii Gl 10 2t; IKt 15 00 Aug. 11 Oct. 9 Oct. 10 1834. 83 7 81 41 8-1 20 2 1 1833 37 20 E. Fort Reliance 02 40 29 109 00 30 .May 21 .May '22 81 3.-! 2 1 35 10 E. Mean ,8.3 4-..' <> [inean.l Mean 84 3H 1 18G4 Music Ox Hap id 01 10 51 lOfl 8 10 •luly 2 ,81 1 2 .July 2 44 91 E. Rock Kiipiil 05 51 ]> '.H 10 7 .Inly 23 80 l.'i 2 20 10 E. Point llcuut'drt 07 11 21 '.15 2 iO .luly 31 .s7 51 o .li.'v "i 0 00 VV. Montreal laliuul 07 47 2: '.15 18 15 Aug. 2 s,s i:( 87 45 .> Au?;. 2. A.M. Ann. 2. P.M. 2 43 E, 0 42 W. Point Oqle OS n 57 '.It .58 1 \uy. 12 ,80 30 2 AU!?. 15. A.M.. Noon. 1 ,52 E. 3 30 VV. • P.M 1 n; E. Variations in l.'-"25 by Sir J .\t roll licsuiution Ditto In, 18;iO, Franklin:— the Variation iu l.- , wa.i SO-' 15' 00" •2J 10' 47" •r > i Al A; 448 APPENDIX. The variation was determine;! by means of a Katers compass made by Jones; and, wlien used, great care was taken to remove it from tiie nntximity of any iron or otiier metallic substance which might be supposed to ilerange it. Owing, 1 consider, to the great diminution of the directive force acting on the horizontal needle, the variation could not be determined with any degree of certainty after we arrived at the mouth of the Thiew-ee-choh; but whether the differences in the variation which I obtained at different times of the day were due to slug'5'shness in tlie needle, or to an actual change in the direc- tion of "^he ff>rce acting upon the needle, to the amount observed, I will not venture to say, though there cannot be much dcubt that the latter cause had some influence. The Diurnal Variation. m V -' The diurnal changes in the direction of .the needle were de- termined with an instrument constructed by Jones expressly for this expetlition. The instrument consisted of a rectangular brass box, ten inches long, and two and a quarter wide j with pieces of plate glass at each end, and on the top; and was perfectly air-tight. It had two levels, and stood on three foot screws, by means of which it was levelled. The needle was 85 inches long; and c juld vibrate in an arc of ten degrees on each side of the magnetic meridian. It could be used either vibrating on a centre, or by suspension, or both; as a pillow, with the necessary apparatus for preventing torsion, screwed on the top of the instrument. There was a small telescope, quite independent of the instrument, for reading off the variation; and which had a motion concentric with the graduated arcs, rendering it unnecessary to approach the instrn- ment too closely, and thus obviating many inconveniences. The instrument was placed on the solid stand in the observa- tory. The observations of the direction of the needle were made for seven successive days, in October 1833, from the 22nd to the 28th of the month, at every hour from 8 a. m. until midnight; and similar observations were made in April 1834, from the 23d of the month to the 29th, both days inclusive; aild again in Octo- ber 1834, from the 22nd to tiie 28th inclusive. The metn results of these observations are given in Tables II., III., and IV. From November 1833 to April 1834, both months inclusive, and again, from NovemLer 1834 to March 1835, the direction of the needle was observed and registered each day, at the hours of 8 and 0 in the morning, noon, 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 10, 12, afternoon. /,,(• .* "^«f" APPENDIX. 449 s compass to remove substance J directive mid not be ived at the ices in the f were due the direc- L observed, dcubt that atf^f . *^* o'" a" the observations for each month (without attnbutmg any of the deviations to. or making any correction for the appearance ot the Aurora Borealis) are c..ntliined in Table v., and 1 able VI. shows the number of times, durin-^ each month, that the needle was in motion, whether tremulous or vibratin};. at the several hours of registering its direction: together with the number of times that the aurora was visible. ^ 3 were dc- pressly for ten inches tc glass at t. It had »f which it aid vibrate ; meridian. lUspension, preventing ere was a for reading c with the the instru- ices. le observa- kvere made 2nd to the midnight; m the 23d n in Octo- Tables II., inclusive, ircction of le hours of rnoon. 57 # 450 APPENDIX. i m «-Si if. e 0. i 1- .2-= 02 o < +;, 5 - - 8 "5 - — 4) JJ * -T u . j « ^ 4>>> +^ jj ;j -C b ^8 =: « * o 4-> 1 a u A eu ' !^i ■« « in 1 7? S. ^ ft -s ^ «. 1— 1 to a ^ >* 1— 1 •< Sf •J a •^ o ,+ - <1 f! ■^ j: <^ <» ^ o ^s +.' SS ? ^1 = ? *>* -< - o T >. 7f 13 if w i ro s * o ■*! " CI *« -T> ?^ rm. ft: +^ < 9! ifi 0) ■J ti, ■*r 3 o cJS * '/; *•* ■«1 S ^ (t 1) 0. M j* s; " — -c a 4 E^ «i •k u u ' 01 ti; +i: a 8 a ^* bi < ^o rt , < - 1* 1) '-I 1 +■: o ;; u •< < i:: ^ " i'^ a ^a. 3 o i^ s 3 M B < = S u <• o o «. ,_! n o 1^ S ^ 1) S M 3 < in to -e w o^ a c- S 2J 3 s H < «! K g s 'R M Q 3; 1 ^ 00 g ^ ss o K o o !^ s?{ APPENniX. 5 I 2 CLi i. l^ a 1 r, ?! « a. ; c: < S 7 -=: a +^, a a.ci a i_* f 2 c o o ^ 8^ 431 452 APPENDIX. Vi'K 'i .0. Position of Needle. Suspended 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 0:* C3 S H , S , 0 0 n 0 S a to 0 ct 0 0 0 00 1 c^ 1 '-' 1 »» 1 ■* 01 §5 ^r tc t^ J; 1 0 'cj CO — t M H H U M S ig 5; § 3 -H 0 0 r- t„ ^ ^ Bi S S S CJ rt 00 s +2+^ „ 1 >.,+^+^+.^ 1 " " ,^. 1 1 i; 2 — , (4 B 0 Si U U H ^ M S S g § § t-^ h- ^ --• N. u 8 0 ^ ^ ^ rt 0 0 Ct CO — •2 1 S CO gi t>i 0 0 0 t- I - 00 c £='i='2 a; 5: (4 W W « pj w 2 s f? a 2 ^ Tt< 0 CO LO 0 ^ it i 0 fe S lf3 -^ t' a H 10 CZ) +;+o S 1 '"j.Sj.ii^ , ^j.S 0 «= ^ -'2':: S P^ ^ 0 0 H H H ^ H ^ 13 '3 2 SJ ■= 0 -1 O) ■<)< s & ^ & S S S: CM 0 01 1 s +S+0 ' gi 1 m^^m i^o "^^ CM CM 0 L-;: S"^J5 '2 '2; '0 -- H H H H » 3 S S 8 g; 0 oj l•^ 0 CO in 0 i- M M N S in o) 0 — s 2 S ^ 1 " l'^^j.'^ J_^ 1 PU £1 H bi H ^ u !5 S J5 S? S (N ci to 0 to 0 ^ H ^ '& % %h 0 CO 0 s 0 a H j.^+°4." 1 ° 4-^.1.^ 4.^ 2 "5^500— ''23 CS CI rr a 0 0 >5 t4 H H KJ (1) H M ■* — S CO 0< to to 00 TJ^ ^ 0 HUM 8 S ffi CO ts -^ a H 'SCi5+!+: CO 1^ t^ ^^ S3 M di H H H SJ ?3 3 cJ S a g? S S§ g ft) ft) H H a ^ § ?3 gJ S '5 J3 a •"go ""to CJ CM — M ft) H M U S? S g f? 2J S ^ ?? ^ 5? ft] ft) N Sm S3 S S! ?^ s; 0 3 iS % § ^ S g i S % i i i > 6 *-• 1 > 0 0 01 s ^ 1 1 1 1^ fa K < '5 0 "» fa * •k*- > * APPENDIX. 458 No. VI. Showing the Number of Times the Needle was in Motion at the Re- gistering Hours. Month. Year. Montreal Island. 15 68 13 57 91 58 01 1 52 E. A.M. 1 16 W.I'.M. Point Ogle. APPENDIX. 455 No. IX. of Bay. IT(ul.s()n'.s Biiy Tloiise, Loiiduu, 22ud Oct. Ib34. Jlngus Bclhune, Eaq, Cldvf Factor, i^-c. i^r. .S'««/^ St. Manfs. Sir, I am directed by the Governor and Committee to acquaint you, that the packet by ^vilich this is sent will be forwarded to your address in duplicate; one copy, via Montreal, to be transmitted from post to post by the (irand River, and the other by the American mail, to the care of the commandinj:i; officer of the gar- rison at St. Mary's. It contains letters for Captain Back, ap- prising him of the arrival of Capt. lloss in England; and it is of great importance that he should receive this information before his departure from his winter (juarters. I am therefore to request, that the copy which first reaches you be sent on to the next post by a couple of the most active men you can find, without the delay of one day at St. Mary's; and that it be forwarded in like manner, accompanied by this letter, with the utmost expedition from post to post, via Mishipi- colm, the Pic, Fort William, Lake Lapluie, via Riviere aux Roseau to Red River, tbence to Fo>-t Pelly, Carlton, Isle a la Crosse, Athabaska, and Great Slave Lake, until it reaches its destination; where, if due expedition be observed, it ought to arrive early in April. . The Governor and Committee further direct, that the officers at the different posts do not, on any pretence whatever, detain the packet; and desire that the date of the arrival at and depart- ure from each post, signed by the officer in charge, be endorsed on the back hereof; and also, that the messengers from each post be instructed to proceed to the next, without attending to any directions they may receive to the contrary, from persons they may meet en route. And when the second copy of this packet gets to hand at the Sault, let it be forwarded in like manner. I am. Sir, Your most obedient humble Servant, W. SMITH. Secretary. 456 APPENDIX. % Received at the Pic on the 7th of February, 1834, at 8 o'clock p. m, Tl, mas M. Murray, C. T. H. B. Com. Left the Pic on the 8th of February, at 6 o'cloci< a. m. Tliomas M. Murray. Received at Lon^ Lake on the 13th of February, 1834, at 11 o'clock P.M. . Peter M'Kenzie, Clerk H. B. Co. Left Long Lake on the I4th of February at 5 o'clock a. m. Peler M'Kenzie. Received at LakeNipigon on the 16th of February, 1834, at 10 o'clock p. M. John Swanston, Clerk, H. H. B. Co. Left Lake Nipigon on the 17th of February, at 5 o'clock a. m. John Swanston, Clerk H. H. B. Co. Received at Fort William the 21et of February, 1834, at 11 o'clock A. M., and left Fort William at 3 o'clock v. m., same date. Donald M'Intosh, C. T. Received at Bois Blanc on the 25th of February, 1834, at 1 o'clock p. M., and left Bois Blanc at 4 p. m., same day. John Mlntosh, Clerk H. B. Co. Received at Lac la Pluic on the 2d of March, 1834, at 6 a. m., and will leave this at 7 a. m., the same date. William Sinclair, Clerk. Received at Carlton on the 2d of April, 1834, at 11 o'clock a. m., and will leave this at 1 o'clock noon, the same date. /. P. Pruden, C. T. Received at Fort Chipewyan 21fit April 1834, and will start at 3 o'clock on the 22nd, a. m. J. Charles, C. F. Received. 20th of Jan. at noon - 29th of Jan. afternoon 7thofFeb. atSp. M. 2nd of March, at 6 a. m. 12thofMarch,at2;'..H, 25th of March, at 6 p. m. 2nd of April, at 11 a. m. 21st of April, at 4 p. m. 29th of April, at 7 p. m. Place. Sault, St. Mary's Mishipicolm Pic .... Fort William - Lake la Pluio . Red River - - Fort Felly - - Carlton - . - Isle a la Crosse Athabasca - • Great Slave Lake Forwarded. 21st of Jan. - - - .SOthofJan. - - - 8th of Feb. 6 a. M. - 2nd of March, 7 a. m. 13th of March, fi a. m. 26th of March, 6 a. m. '2nd of April, 1 at noon fith of April, 5 p. m. 22nd of April, 3 A. M. 30th of April, 4 a. m. Name of Officer in Cliarge. H. Bethune. Geerge Keith. Thos. M. Murray. William Sinclair. Alexander Christo. William Todd. J. P. Pruden. Rinck. John Charles. J. M'Donell, Clerk. ^ \