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KOTZEBUFS

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY,

VOL. III.

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LoirsoK:

Printed By A. & R. Rpottiswood^

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Ltrndtr fubUjhtd. ly Longm/in Hur.'!^. Ri'cs. Orme irSnwn. 1S!I .

u

VOYAGE OF^^

g£06gM
BEERING'S STRAITS,

FOR THE FURPOSE OF

EXPLORING A NORTH-EAST PASSAGE,

UNDERTAKEN

IN THE YEARS 1815 1818,

AT THE EXPENSE OF HIS HIGHNESS THE CHANCELLOR OF THE EMPIRE,
COUNT ROMANZOFF,

IN THE SHIP liURICK,

UNDER THE COMMAND OF THE LIEUTENANT IN THE
RUSSIAN IMPERIAL NAVY,

OTTO VON KOTZEBUE.

ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS PLATES AND MAPS.

IN THREE VOLUMES.

VOL. III.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR

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1821.

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS,

V « J *■ i

OF THE

1 }'<('

NATURALIST OF THE EXPEDITION,

CONTINUED.

vj;

•''i

; •*

TENERIFFE.

■'ir.'i

Many learned men have visited and described
Tcneriffe. Alexander Von Humboldt, and Bom-
pland, were on this island, and ascended the Pic de
Teyde. Leopold Von Buch and Christian Schmidt
made the whole chain of the Canary islands the
scene and subject of their scientific researches, and
ascended the Pic several times; the last time, shortly
before our arrival, late in the season, to collect the
plants growing on it, with their fruit ripe. After the
short view which was allowed us, we can only
refer the curious to the learned work of Bory de
Saint Vincent, and Humboldt's Travels ; and to
the fruits of the labours of those celebrated men
whom we regretted not to have met here. The
learned world now expects an account of these
labours from M. Von Buch alone, as Professor

VOL. III.

B

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

Schmidt fell, in his expedition to the river Zaire,
a dear victim to the sciences which he served. *

The island of Teneriffe extends from north-east
to south-west. The south-western part is occu-
pied by the Pic and its base ; the north-eastern, by
rugged dreary mountains. They are separated by
a broad col or pass ; on the top of which is situ-
ated the chief city, Laguna, and below it is Santa
Cniz, on the south-eastern coast, leaning on the
eastern mountains. The town and harbour of
Oratava lie on the opposite coast, at the foot of
the Pic, in the midst of beautiful vineyards and
palm-gardens, which remind us of the insukejbr-
tunakB, The way thither, from Santa Cruz, is
through Laguna, (a miserable town, with seven
convents,) and through the villages of Matanza
and Vittoria, names which here, as in other Spanish
possessions, indicate the fate of the natives on the
conquest : " Victory and Massacre !**

The country round Saint Cruz is naked and
desolate ; only a few palms and plantains, rising
above the white walls of the town, announce to
the European who lands there a more southern
clime. The Flora, like that of all islands, is poor.
It is most nearly related, by the similarity of its
species, genera, and vegetable forms, to the Flora

* Narrative of an expedition to explore the river Zaire.
London, 1818. 4<to.

iTiBi^e has already appeared, A general View of the lldra of
the Canary Islands, an Essay, by L.V.Buch, in the Memoirs
of the Academy. Berlin, 1819. .

TENEniPFE.

h

of the great basin, whose waters are received by
the Mediterranean : a few species of plants, t)f
luxuriant growth, give it, however, the character-
istic of the torrid zone. The date-tree, the plan-
tain, the American aloe, the common torch thistle,
and, according to Humboldt, also the dragon-tree,
are strangera in this soil, as they are in Spain and
Sicily, But the gigantic colunmar Euphorbia
Canariensis, with several other juicy plants, the
Cacalia Kieinia, Euphorbia balsamifera, &c. belong
to the rocks which they occupy, and fairly an-
nounce the vegetation of Africa. '^

You ask now in vain, in the garden of the Mar-
quis de Nava, at Laguna, for the bread-fruit tree,
{Artocarpus incisa), planted there by Broussonet
himself, and which was still there when Humboldt
visited the island.

Dr. Eschscholtz found, among the insects which
we collected, only well-known European spe-
cies. Destructive swarms of locusts (Gryllus ta*
taricus?) sometimes fly from the continent and
ravage these islands. We were told that, in 1811,
the neighbourhood of Laguna was infested by them,
and we ourselves had seen at sea, two or three de-
grees north of Tenerifie, and four or five degrees
west of the continent, the remains of such a swarm
swimming round our ship. In the sequel, one o£
these animals flew on board our vessel, between
TenerifFe and Canaria.

The people in general appeared to us extremely

B 2

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

poor and ugly, but at the same time of a very cheer-
ful temper, and very inquisitive. The Spanish gra-
vity which they maintain, though in rags, inspired us
with a certain respect. At every place we came
to, we were obliged to relate our history, and pro-
duce cur plants and insects. In a miserable hut in
Matan^a, we heard people of the lowest class con-
verse with much sense on the volcanic nature of
their mountains.

Besides our domestic animals, they have here the
camel, or rather the dromedary. It is used for
carrying, burthens, but is spared on this rocky soil.
There are two inns in Teneriffe ; the one at Santa
Cruz is kept by a native, the other, at Oratava, by
an Englishman.

During the wars with France, 3000 prisoner of
war were kept in Teneriffe. Some have remained
on the island, and the children, particularly, have
learnt from them a little French.

■.l:nfM%^

BRAZIL.

•b'if

On running into the channel of Saint Catharine,
you fancy yourself, on the first sight, transported
into the empire of still unsubdued nature. The
verdant luxuriantly-wooded mountains, which rise
in unbroken lines from the shores of the island and
of the continent, belong to her alone, and you
scarcely observe at their foot the labours of man,
who is yet a sti'anger there* In the interior,
higher mountains, some of which take the forms of
cupolas or cones, and a ridge of mountains on the
continent, which are said to be slightly covered
with snow in the winter months, bound the pros-
pect towards the south.

The islands of TenerifTe and St. Catharine lie in
the same latitude, one in the southern, and the
other in the northern hemisphere. Yet how diffe-
rent is the appearance of nature in the two. There
the rocky soil is only partially and scantily clothed
with verdure, and foreign species of plants merely
intermixed with those of Europe. Here a new
creation surrounds^ the admiring European, in
whose crowded luxuriance all is surprising and
gigantic.

3 3

6

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

I

The kind of rock which is seen in the cliffs that
rise above the water in the channel, and on the
shore» is every where coarse-grained granite.

The bays are bounded by inaccessible morasses»
which are covered with forests of green mangrove
and towering palms» An impenetrable forest, which
clothes the mountains, extends, almost without
interruption, over the country. The siliquose
plants, with variously feathered leaves, lofty stems,
and branches spread out like a fan, seem to be
predominant, accompanied however with all the
usual forms of trees in rich variety. The arbor-
escent ferns, with elegant palm -like forms, at-
tain no greater height than fifteen or twenty
feet, and are hidden in the thick wood. Parasite
plants {Lianes) of every kind (and all classes and
families of plants here assume this form,) make,
between the ground, the trunks, and the tops, a
thickly-interwoven wonderful net. Ferns, grasses,
(Ci/peracecPf Heliconia,) &c. far exceeding the
height of a man, luxuriate on the ground amidst
fallen trees. Another vegetable world ofOrchidecp,
Bromeliacefe, Cactus, Piper, ferns, &c. wave aloft
among the branches ; and the TiHandsia usneoides
hangs the crowns of aged trees with silver locks.

The paths cut in this dark wilderness are soon at
an end ; and he whowould penetrate it, finds it im-
possible to reach even the top of the nearest hUls.

The Aroidece flourish on the sloping banks of the
streams which are collected in the clefts of the
mountains \ gigantic Cactm form in places singular

BRAZIL.

groups J Brometiee, OrchideWy pepper, crown the
rocks } and ferns and lichens cover tracts of dry
sand. The soil, abandoned by agriculture, is soon
covered with thick bushes, among which beautiful
species of Melastoma are distinguished.

The habitations of man lie under orange groves,
at the foot of the mountains ; and on the shore, sur-
rounded with plantations of pisang, coffee, cotton,
&c. and by inclosures, where many of our garden
plants, which have been parasltically followed by
various species of European weeds, sre culti-
vated in obscurity. The melon-tree, (jCarica pa-
paya,') which here shoots up in a high stem, and the
Coquero*", a kind of cocoa, with fusiform stem, and
small fruit, overtop them. The genuine cocoa-pakn,
which grows between the tropics, does not flourish
here. The Brazil or Pernambuco-wood (CiBsalpina
echinata') enriches only more northern provinces,
and the Pilifera testmdata Bress, should probably be
likewise sought for more to the north. This is the
interesting, still imperfectly known plant, the
spatha of which furnishes the natural caps which
are represented in Seba, (1 Tab. 3. fig. (/.,) and may
be seen in many cdlections.

The animal kingdom does not offer less riches,
less luxuriance, than the vegetable kingdom. In
harmony with the character of the vegetation» the

* There is said to be in this part a palm of this kind, the
trunk of which is parted, and bears a double crown. Our
time did not allow u» to visit this tree.

B 4

t

8

IlEMARKS AND OPINIONS.

i

i

form of creepers prevails among the birds, and
maiiy species of quadrupeds are provided with
twisting tails {Cauda prehensiliSy L.)

The most common of the monkey species here
is the Callitrix Capucina, They are often brought
up tame» under the name of Macaco. Their voice
resembles that of a singing-bird. Of the quadru-
peds, we also saw the aguti, and an armadillo*
(^Dasypus gilvipes, sex cinctus auct.)

Among the birds, numerous parrots and toucans
are the most distinguished and frequent. There is,
besides, a rich variety of species and kinds. A large
grouse (Crypturus) is very frequent. The vultures
(Cathartes, 111.) clear the sea-shore, and humming-
birds flutter, with butterflies, around the flowers.
i. Of amphibia, (the turtle perhaps excepted*,)
there is an abundant variety of remarkable kinds.

Among the flsb, we observed a small electric
ray (Torpedo) without spots, and whose electric
power must have been very inconsiderable, as our
fishermen did not perceive it ; and, among the mol-
luscee of the sea, a large Aplysiat the ink of which
is used for dying red.

The greatest variety, and the greatest beauty,
however, prevail among the insects. Of those
which we collected, several kinds are new, and not
to be found among those received from Rio Janeiro.

* The Prince Maximilian of Neuwied, who had the oppor-
tunity of a long stay in Brazil, m«t with sea-turtles of enormous
size. — Note of Trattslaior,

UnAZIL.

M

9

Among others, we found the bird-spider, (Armtea
avicularia,) the bite of which is here considered
mortal. Nature does not teach man what he really
has to fear.

As soon as the sun has sunk below the horizon,
luminous creatures of all kinds enlighten the air *
sea t and earth, t Their glittering light, the
barking and cries of the amphibia, of the frog kind,
and the shrill notes of the grasshoppers, give to this
verdant world the animation of a scene in fairy,
land.

We are indebted for our first knowledge of the na-
tural history of Brazil to Prince 'Maurice of Nassau,
Marcgraff and Piso, whose manuscripts and original
drawings are preserved in the library of Berlin.
In later times, Count Hoffmannsegg, by means of

^ Elater nocticulus and E. phosphoreits, with two points of
constant light on the breast-plate, and several kinds of lam-
pyris, with light on the belly, returning at equal intervals.
Their numbers, however, according to the observations of Dr.
Eschscholtz, seem to be magnified in Fabricius' System, where
several varieties are enumerated as species. The shining or
swarming of these beetles seems to depend upon circumstances,
that require further examination. Sometimes the air is filled
with them, and sometimes they entirely vanish.

f iMrvK and smaXl species o{ Scohpendra,

X Particularly MedustBt of which we took some up on the
beach, but which had suffered too much to be more accurately
determined. The light was particulai'ly visible in a wreath of
points round the edge of the body, and increased by being
touched, or any other excitement. The hands rubbed with
the mucus of the animal, retained the phosphorescence for
some time.

i

10

REMARKS ASD OPINIONS.

It

hunters and learnBd correspondence * which he
kept up there, has done much for the cultivation
of this branch of science; and his collections, which
have been, for the most part, presented to the
Berlin museum, were the chief sources for the
study of it. The travels of Prince Maximilian of
Neuwied, and of many zealous Germans, both
men of learning, and collectors, at length finish
the work J and thus, by German activity and indus-
try, this Portuguese part of the world will be con-
quered for the sciences, which already owe to
the Germans, Count Hoffmannsegg and Professor
Link, the knowledge of the Flora and Fauna of
Portugal.

The government of the island of St. Catharine,
contains, as we were informed, about 30,000 in-
habitants ; among whom, two blacks may be rec-
koned to one white. We found the slave-trade
still carried on here ; and this government alone
requires, yearly, from five to seven ships full of
negroes, reckoning each at a hundred, to supply
the place of those who die on the plantations.
The Portuguese, themselves, import them from
their African possessions in Congo and Mosam-
bique. t The price of a man in the prime of life

* We mention here with gratitude Father Francisco Agos-
tinho Gomez in Bahia.

f The slaves firom Mosambique are the smallest number.
The Guinea negroes are distinguished by the smaller angle of
their profile, more projecting jaw-bones, by the deeper black of

BRAZIL.

11

which he
cultivation
ions, which
:ed to the
es for the
ximiHan of
nans, both
[)gth finish
and indus-
ill be con-
\y owe to
i Professor

Fauna of

Catharine,
30,000 in-
ay be rec-
lave-trade
ent alone
ps full of
supply
mtations.
em from
Mosam-
le of life

isco Agog-
number.

sr angle of
black of

is from two to three hundred piasters. A woman
is of much less value; and speedily to exhaust the
whole strength of a man, and then to supply his
place by a new purchase, seems to be more profit-
able than to bring up slaves in the planter's house.
We purposely quote the plain words of a planter
in the New World, which must sound strange to
the ears of an European. The sight of these
slaves in" the mill, where they separate the rice
from its husk, in wooden mortars, with heavy
clubs, keeping time in their work by a par-
ticular kind of groaning, is distressing and hu-
miliating. These services are performed in Eu-
rope, by wind, water, and steam. We saw, also,
in the village of St. Michael, a water-mill, already
mentioned by Krusenstern. The number of slaves
is, in proportion, smaller on the more populous
islands than on the continent. Their food is meat
and cassava. Those living in the houses of their
masters, and such as are kept in poorer families,
grow up more like human beings, than those who
are compelled to work like mere machines. We
were, however, never witnesses of any cruel treat-
ment of them.
The town of Nostra Senhora de Destero, the

their skin, and many, besides, by peculiar figures, which were
imprinted in their childhood, in the skin of the face and body,
by a sharp instrument ; marks by which the different tribes are
distinguished.

1«

HEM ARKS AND OlMMONS.

I

residence of the Governor, lies on the island itself,
on the narrowest part of the channel. The anchor-
age for larger ships is in its northern entrance, at
a distance of several miles from the town. It con-
tains a convent for men ; and of the monks not one
dedicates his idle hours to any science. Dealers
in butterflies are here called naturalists.
" The commerce of this colony is inconsiderable.
Its harbour is only visited by American ships, to
take in provisions when on their way to double
Cape Horn, or go on the southern whale-fishery. Its
productions are sugar, rum, rice, and coffee. To-
bacco, mace, cassava {Jatropha manihot) fruit, &c.
only for home consumption : they also grow corn,
but with little success. The vine does not thrive.
Both the leaves and the grapes are infected with
black spots, which, with us, are ascribed to the hail.
The most considerable plantations are situated on
the continent, at a distance of a few miles behind
the mountains.

There is no trade with the Indians; wherever
any of the two nations meet, they take up their
arms. Every one receives land to cultivate, and
settle upon gratis, without respect to his religious
opinions. Several Englishmen are said to have
settled in this island, where a village is called after
them.

The whale-fishery belongs to the crown. The
name Arma9ao, distinguishes the royal fisheries,
which carry it on, and of which there are four in

nRA2rL.

w

\fi

this government. They fish in tlie winter months
at the entrance of the harbour. Sometimes only
open boats go out, manned with six rowers, a mate,
and a harpooner, and the fish caught is dragged on
shore, where it is cut in pieces. Each Arma9au
brings in every winter about a hundred ; and we
have been assured, that the number might be much
greater ifthe payment of the wages (which are now
three years in arrear) were more punctual. The
whale-fishery in Brazil does not belong exclusively
to this government ; some lying more northward
have a share in it. In this ocean, the whales of
the south appeal* to penetrate further towards the
equator than those of the north. They are said to
have been met with, under the twelfth degree of
sputh latitude.

The only vehicles which are used in the colony,
and by which the produce is brought here from
distant provinces, are extremely inconvenient. Two
solid pieces of wood, which turn with the axle, to
which they are fastened, carry a piece of wood,
which serves at the same time, both for shafts and
carriage, and is drawn by oxen. Horses are used
only for riding. The canoes, with which the chan-
nel, the main road in the colony, is navigated, are
not superior. They are long and narrow, and con-
sist only of the trunk of a tree, hollowed out with-
out any out-rigger. Every species of tree is used
for them.

On our excursions along the coast, we found

14

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

cheerfulness, cleanliness, and hospitality prevail
amoog a people, whose means are but scanty. We
were invited into the poorest huts, where the people
entertained us with fruits, and offered us meat
and cassava, but refused to accept any payment in
return.

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CHILI.

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The coast of Chili afforded us the sight of a low
land, as we approached it to enter the Bay de ia
Conception. The peninsula, which forms the ex-
teiior edge of this beautiful basin, and the
mountain-chain of the coast behind it, offer to the
eye an almost horizontal line, which is not inter-
rupted by any remarkable summit, and only the
two pretty hills of the Biobio rise between the
mouth of the river, afler which they are called,
and Port San Vincent. Whales, dolphins, seals,
animated the sea around us, upon which floated
the Fucus pyriferuSf and other gigantic species,
which we first met with at Cape Horn. Herds of
seals basked themselves in the sun on the island
of Quiquirina, at the entrance of the bay ; and, in
the bay itself, they swam around us as in the open
sea ; but no sail, no vessel of any kind, indicated
that man had taken possession of these seas. We
observed, only on the banks, some fields and
inclosures, among forests and bushes; and low,
inconsiderable huts lay scattered along the beach
and on the hills.

The low mountains of the coast, from which
issues the Biobio, near the town of Mocha or Con*

i

i

I

i.

If)

REMARKS AXD OPINIONS.

ception, a broad but not deep river, conceal the
view of the Cordilleras de los Andes, which rise
with their snows and volcanoes at a distance of at
least forty leagues from the sea, behind a broad
and fruitful plain, and offer to scientific research
a yet unexplored field. Molina, who has seen the
Cordilleras in Peru and in this kingdom, is of
opinion that these summits are superior in height
to those of Quito.

The mountain, at whose foot lies the town, and
on its summit the fortress, is mouldered granite,
which contains undecompounded masses of the
same species of rock. The hills which form the pe-
ninsula, are of schistus, over which lies red and
dark-coloured clay; and the low hills, against which
Talcaguano reclines towards the Port of San Vin-
cent, consist only of strata of such clay, of which
several, and particularly the upper ones, .are filled
with the conchylia, still living in these seas (Con-
cholepas Peruviana, a large Mytilus, &c.) in an
unaltered state. The sand of the beach and of
the plain is tinged grey by fragments of slate. "^^
^ Tlie celebrated stones of the Rio de las Cruzes,
near Aranco, are congeries of chiastolite. Na-
ture on this southern frontier of Chili, the Italy of
the New World, has not the unlimited productive
power which filled us with astonishment at Saint
Catharine's; and the mere difference of latitude
does not necessarily seem to produce the difference
in the two Floras. The mountain!^ sepairate the

16

;i!

CHILI.

17

countries ; romantic groves of myrtle and buslies
overspread the hills ; and a mixture of other bacci-
ferous trees, of congenial forms, agreeably har-
monize with thiH predominant species. The beauti-
ful Guevina avellana, of the family of the Proteaceee,
unites with the myrtles, and species of Lorantus
sowed by the birds, adorn the trees and bushes
with their red and white bunches of flowers. The
Fuchsia coccinea generally fills the watered moun-
tain clefls ; a few parasite plants climb in the
thicker parts of the forest ; a Bromeliacea, the re-
markable Pitrairinia coarctata, with rampant twist-
ing stems and stiff leaves, covers the otherwise
naked and dry hills. The beautiful Lapageria rosea
twines round the thickets, the lighter parts of which
are adorned with other liliaceous plants, amaryllis,
Alotrameria, Sisi/ri/nchium, &c.

Many European species, the Oenotlterece Catceo-
laria„ Acaeneee^ are intermingled with new kinds ;
and the moist pastures of the valley are adorned, as
with us, by yellow ranunculus. *

» Tlie family of the Proteacea, and the species Arancaria^
of the family of the Strobilacete, belong to the southern hemi-
sphere. The species which are met with in Chili, and might
remind us of Australia, are natives. We collected the Goadenia
repens, which, according to Brown's observations, grows in New i
Holland, and Chili ; it may be considered as a strand plant, like
those of the Mesembrianthemum species which we found here,
and in California; which resemble those growing in New
Holland, and New Zealand, and approach very nearly the
Mesembrianthemum edule of the Cape. We must reserve our
observation on the geographical diffusion gf plants, till we have
arranged our botanical collections.

VOL. III. C

18

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

N

til

The winter here is not without frost, and there
are instances of snow having fallen in the valley.
The palm of San Jago (Cocos chilensis, Mol.) is not
met with now so far to the south. The orange
and lemon ripen indeed in the inclosed gardens of
Mocha, but we do not see here the beautiful high
orange groves which delighted us in Brazil. We
were shown, in one of these gardens, a young date-
tree, which throve admirably; and near this palm
grew the Arancaria-imbrkata, the beautiful fir-
tree of the Andes, which is only met with, growing
wild, in the Cordilleras, where it forms entire
forests, and nourishes the inhabitants with its
kernels. The Chilian strawberry, during the time
of our stay, had neither blossom nor fruit.

The name of the Huemul or Guemul, (^Equus
bisulcus, Mol.,) afler which we eagerly inquired,
was not known to any body ; and even the worthy
missionary, whose conversation was so instructive
to us, knew nothing of this animal. We must,
therefore, leave the important zoological question,
which Molina has put respecting it, to be answered
by more fortunate naturalists. This author, how-
ever, appears to us to deserve little authority in
natural history. We did not see, in Conception,
any of the camel species of the New World ; they
are only to be met with in the mountains, in a wild
state ; and they neglect, in the total stagnation of
industry, to bring them up as useful animals. We
saw, in fact, no wild quadrupeds.

CHILI. !^

Screaming parrots, in numerous flocks, traverse
the air: humming-birds, of various kinds, flut-
ter round the flowers : a spur-winged water-hen
(^Parra Chilensis, Mol.) fills, with loud cries, the
plain which separates the bay from Port Saint
Vincent: some vultures (Chartartes, III.) seek
their food on the shore ; and numerous ducks, and
other sea-fowl cover the sea, and settle on the
banks which rise above the waves near Talca-
guano.

Of amphibious animals we saw only a small frog,
and a little lizard, and I believe we also perceived
a snake, though Molina does not mention any.

Among the Conchylia, we found the Conchole*
pas Peruviana and Picus psittacus remarkable. *

We collected, among other insects, the small
Scorpio Chilensis, which makes an exception to
Molina's rule, that Chili does not contain a poison-
ous reptile within its frontiers. *

After the preliminary labours of Feuill6e and
Molina, after Ruitz andPavon, after Cavanille, who
has described many Chilian plants, but sometimes
confounded them, there is still much to be done

* Scorpions are, in general, less dangerous than dreaded. At
the Cape of Good Hope, two very large kinds arc quite com-
mon, each of which is found principally in different parts. In
every place the more rare, passes for the most poisonous ; and
the truth is, that the sting has no more dangerous consequences
than that of a wasp. Our infurmaiits spoke after their own ex-
perience. Scorpions are a favourite food of monkeys.

c a

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

for the natural history of this country; and many
doubts have still to be cleared up. * ^

With respect to the manners of the inhabitants,
the obliging, incomparable hospitality of the supe-
rior classes, and the state of the colony, we can
only refer to the accounts of La Peyrouse and
Vancouver. We found only a change in the dress
of the women, as described by the former, and of
which a picture is found in his atlas. Since within
these eight or ten years, it has given place to our
European fashions, after the newest of which the
ladies eagerly inquired ; and the dress of the men
is only distinguished by the Araucanian poncho,
and the broad-brimmed straw hat. t

But, amidst the cheerful and easy society which

* Louis FeuilUe, Journal des Observations Physiques, Ma-
th^matiqucs, et Dotaniques, faites dans rAm6riqueM6ridionale.
Paris, 1714 — 25, 4.to.

Molina, Saggio suUa Sioria Naturale del Chili. Bologna,
1782. 8vo. Secunda Edizion Bologna, 1810. 4to. does not clear
up what was left obscure in the first edition.

Ruitz et Pavon, Florae Peruvianee et Chilensis prodromus.
Madriti, 1794. Romse, 1799. Sy sterna Vegetabilium FI. Per.
et Chili. Madriti, 1798.

Flora Peruviana et Chilensis. Mad. 1798 et 99. The Eryn-
gium rostratum, Cav. is not the Eryngium growing near
Talcaguano.

f The poncho, is a longish four-cornered covering, striped,
length-wise, with riband, like ornaments, of a particular kind
of woollen cloth, in the middle of which is a slit to put the
head through; the two ends hang down before and behind.
Chili formerly received the fashions fVom Lima ; but the Chilian
poncho is worn even in Peru.

CHILI.

n

we enjoyed in Conception, we could not refrain
from melancholy reflections on the political crisis
in which this country is engaged.

He who enters neutral between two parties in a
civil war, sees only, in the crowds on both sides,
wild intoxication and hatred. We saw only the
royal party, which the liberals, remembering the
history of the mother-country, call Moors. Com-
pared with the numerous splendid female circles,
we saw only a few men, officers and functionaries of
the king, and a ragged, miserable, wretched, and
motley soldiery.

Many individuals of the patriot party, which
was then oppressed, were in the state prisons,
which had been enlarged, by adding a church to
them ; and were employed in building the fort,
which was erecting to keep the city in awe.
Some were sent to the island of Juan Fernandez ;
others among them, and many of the clergy, had
assembled in Buenos Ayres, under the flag of their
native country, which, after the fall of Carthagena,
which we saw celebrated with enthusiastic joy, was
represented to us as entirely vanquished. m

And Chili, which Molina describes as a terres-
trial paradise, where a fruitful soil is adapted to
every species of cultivation, whose riches in gold
and silver, corn, delicious wine, fruits, productions
of all kinds, timber, oxen, sheep, and horses, are
immense, languishes in fetters, without navigation,
commerce, or industry. The smuggling trade of

c a

2!2

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

|!f

<i

the Americans, A^hose agents are the monks, sup-
plies it with all necessaries, but only for ready
money, without its turning its own productions to
advantage} and these same Americans, exclusively,
cany on the whale-fishery on its coasts.

History has decided on the revolution to which
the United States of America owe their existence,
their prosperity, their rapidly increasing population
and power; and all the nations of Europe regard with
undissembled favour the struggle of the Spanish
colonies. The separation from the mother-country
is to be foreseen ; but it is doubtful when a wise,
tranquil development will seal the transition from
oppression to independence.

The town of Mocha is regular, and of great
extent, but the houses low, and large, and pro-
vided with windows only towards the interior
court-yard. They are indeed built in a man-
ner well-adapted to frequent and violent earth-
quakes, but not for the cold of winter. They are
not acquainted with either chimnies, or stoves.
The poorer class have not even got a kitchen
hearth, and dress their victuals in the open air,
or under the entrance-halU In the evening many
fires bum in the streets of Talcaguano, at which
the people warm themselves; and we were ourselves
witnesses of a fire caused by this custom, which
reduced a house to ashes. The vineyards, which
produce the delicious Conception wine, lie at a
considerable distance from the town. The wine
is brought, like the corn, in leathern sacks, and it is

CHILI.

preserved in large earthen vessels: there are no
barrels. Beasts of burthen, asses of a very fine race,
and mules, supply the place of carriages, of which
there are but very few, and of the same kind as
those in St. Catharine's. The Governor-Intend-
ant alone has a chaise, made in Lima, which he
seldom or never uses. The horses are very filie,
and good, and riding is quite general; the women
also ride in their journies, or make use of carts
resembling our shepherds' huts, which are drawn
by oxen.

The Creole is always on horseback ; the poorest
possesses at least a mule, and even a boy rides
behind the asses which ^he drives. The noose, or
lazo, is in general use.

We will mention a custom singularly founded on
religious ideas, which was offensive to our feelings.
When a child dies, after having received baptism,
the evening before the burial, the corpse itself is
dressed up as the image of a saint, and placed erect
in a lighted room, on a kind of altar, which is
adorned with burning tapers, and garlands of
flowers. Tlie company then assemble, and they
amuse themselves during the night, with wordly
songs, and dancing. We twice witnessed such
festivals in Talcaguano.

Several Araucanians whom we saw in Concep-
tion, as they belonged to the lowest class of their
people, who hire themselves to the Spaniards «s
day-labourers, could not give us a faithful por-

c 4

; [1

;1

^ ii

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I

i-

i

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i

S4

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

trait of that warlike, eloquent, strong, and un-
mixed nation, whose feelings of liberty, and skill
in the military art, opposed an insurmountable bul-
wark, first to the arms of the Incas, and afterwards
to the desolating conqueror of the New World. The
Peruvians did not penetrate farther south into
Chili than to the river Rapel, and the Biobio has
remained the proper boundary of the Spaniards,
who, more to the south, possess only the places of
St. Pedro, Aranco, Valdivia, the arcliipelago of
Chiloe, and inconsiderable frontier-posts, the road
to which leads through the independent country
of the Indians.

., We will not transcribe from other books on the
history of Chili, and its nations, as every person is
able to procure them. *Ovalle is faithful, detailed,

* Ovalle (P. Alonzo) Breve Relacicn del Reyno de Chili,
164^. Molina, Saggio suUa Storia Civile del Chili, 1787-8.

The Abb^ Giovanni Ignazio Molina, a native of Chili, is rec-
koned among the principal authors of the Italian literature.
We fegret that his historical work has not, as well as his natural
historical work, been translated into German. In it, may be
found, a Catalogo di Scrittori delle cose del Chili ; an appendix
to ii in Mithridates, 3d part, 2d dfvision, p. 391. and the follow-
ing ; and in Linguarum totius Orbis Index, J. S. Pater, Ber.
1815. p. 18.

Among the means for learning the Araucanian language, we
particularise B. Havestadt Chilidugu, Monast. 1777, which,
being more accessible than the various editions of Louis de
Valdivia, published at Lima, may be obtained by other philolo-
gers as well as ourselves. Molina gives, in his Saggio sulla
Storia Civile, a very accurate and clear picture of this beautiful

• V < ■•

CHILI.

m

and dift'usive. Molina writes, with an attachment to
his country, a history which cannot be read without
interest } and truly the history of a people which I
is still in the state where man is appreciated at his /
just value, and appears in independent greatness
and energy, must be more attractive than those
civiHzed states where calculation presides, the
character disappears, and man only weighs, or is
weighed.

Among the authorities for the history of Chili, are
several Spanish epic poems, of which the Araucana,
by Don Alonzo de Ercilla, has the first rank. This
work is mentioned with honour in Don Quixote ;
Voltaire has praised it; and an edition of it has
appeared in Germany, (Gotha, 1806-7.) This ele-
gantly-versified historical fragment, whose author
celebrates wars in which he himself fought, deserves
less the attention of the German literati than of
the inquirer into history. Historians refer to it
with confidence, and in Chili, where it is considered
as a national poem, it is more read than any other
book.

As a supplement to the historians of Chili, we
communicate the notices for which we are indebted
to Father Alday, a missionary, who spent a part of

language. We have found occasion in another place, to mention
and compare the nations and languages of South America, with
those of the islands of the Great Ocean, and of the eastern part
of Asia ; and observe, that our researches have not led us to
tind a community between them.

■5

1 g
I I t

26

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

his life among these people, and add only a few
Kaore observations.

The last convention between the Spaniards and
the Indians was concluded anno 1773. The latter
have had, since that time, a resident with the Cap-
tain General of Chili, at San Jago, and peace has
not been interrupted. La Peyrouse seems to have
been purposely deceived, to prevent him, or the
gentlemen of his expedition, from making an ex-
cursion into the interior of the country. They made
him believe that a war was carrying on, of which
history is ignorant. They told us that, under present
circumstances, the Indians were faithfully attached
to the King of Spain, and that they defended the
defiles against those of Buenos Ayres. The direct
communication of the colony with the mother-
country which formerly went over the Cordilleras,
by way of Mendoza, the Pampas, and Buenos Ayres,
was, during our time, renewed by way of Lima and
Carthagena. A parliament, a solemn popular as-
sembly of the Indians, at which the Captain General
appears in person for the Spaniards, where the
interests of the two nations are discussed, and the
bond of friendship confirmed, was to be held in a
few weeks, at the usual place on the frontiers, Los
Angeles^ and we regretted extremely that we must
miss this opportunity of witnessing the large as-
sembly of a free people, whose history, though re-
corded by their hereditary enemies, is so distin-
guished for gj-eat men and noble actions.

CHILI.

27

NOTICES OF THE MISSIONARY, FATHER ALDAY*

TRANSLATED FROM THE SFANISH MANUSCRIPT.

The history of the kingdom of Chili was written
from the beginning, by Garcilaso de J a Vega,
mixed with his history of Peru. The celebrated
Ercilla commemorated it in heroic verse, to the end
of his own mission. Father Ovalle, at Rome, wrote
an excellent account of the deeds and misfortunes
of this kingdom, from its foundation up to his
time J and, lastly, the work was finished by Abate
Molina, who wrote and executed this history in all
its parts. This learned ex-jesuit treats, admirably,
of the mineral and vegetable kingdom ; so that no-
thing can be added to what he has said. The riches
which Chili contains in its bosom are inexhaustible;
its soil is the best adapted to all the productions
which enrich Europe, as it enjoys an equal degrte
of temperature on its extreme frontiers; it has
neither the storms that are fatal to the silk-worm,
nor any hail to injure the fruits of the earth. No
beast of prey haunts its mountains which could
threaten the inhabitants, and not a single poison-
ous reptile is found within its Kmits.

The Indians who inhabit the country, from the
river Biobio to Osorno, are divided into four pro-
vinces, which extend like four zones, from north

38

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

' ii

:i

I

n1

iu

to south. They are about 80,000 in number.
They are generally above the middle size, strong
and robust, and very active. They are extremely
addicted to liquor *, and this is the principal
reason of the decrease which we observe when
we compare the present population with that
which history records at the time of the conquest.
An acute observer says, that Don Garcia Hurtado
de Mendosa waged the most terrible war against
them when he gave them the apple-tree. These
trees now form large groves in their territory. The
blood of the Indians is now no where found
unmixed. This arises partly frojiti the Spaniards,
who fly to them to escape justice; partly from the
women whom they made slaves, on the destruction
of seven colonies, on different occasions during the
war; and partly from the Dutch, who deserted,
in such great numbers from the Dutch expedition,
which landed at Valdivi,\ in the reign of Philip IV.,
that the commander, on his return, was obliged
to sink two galleons, not being able to man them.
The descendants of these Dutch are now seen in
Villarica and Tolten, to the shores of Rio de la
Imperial, t

^ * Their intoxicating drink is cyder ; even the poor Creoles
prepare and drink it.— Translator.

f The accounts which we have of the Dutch expedition to
Chili, in 1643, under Hendrick Brouwer, are in direct contra-
diction to the tacts mentioned here. Compare Burney's Chro-
nological History, vol.5, p. 113. Molina only slightly mentions
this circumstance.

CHILI.

The land of the Indians, according to the lati-
tude, is as fruitful as that of the Spaniards. But,
on account of the very diminished population, we
see many fields covered with high trees and low
bushes, whose level ground convinces us that they
once belonged to agriculture, and which show
evident marks of having lost their former inhabit-
ants.

The numerous species of trees which grow in
the country of the Indians, as well on the plain as
on the precipices of the Cordilleras, are also
met with in the Spanish territory: only the
Tayo is an exception. The bark of this tree,
which is smooth, and about the thickness of
a line, is very efficacious for the cure of the
internal aposteme, and every kind of ulcer or
wound. They drink water, in which it has been
boiled, for these diseases ; and bathe and wash
in this water for similar external complaints, and
then strew themselves with the powder of the
same bark, which is dried and rubbed. The rest
of the plants and herbs of this district are of the
same nature as those produced in the Spanish
territory. -r^-

In the mountains, lions are met with, which
prey on other animals, but do no injury to man,
whom they avoid. There are also several moun-
tain-goats and deer, of the size of a lamb: their
flesh is of a good taste. The rivers abound in
fine trout, and smaller species of fish. On their

:

I ' 'I

P| i

'A

1

PH REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

banks an animal is met with, though not frequently,
which lives on fish, and is called by the Spaniards,
water-cat, and by the Indians, guillin. Its skin
furnishes a most valuable fur, and its extremely
fine hair has not its equal for the manufacturing of
hats, (Castor Huidobrius, Molina.)

But let us return to the Indians. They make
use of a very cautious policy to preserve the inde-
pendence of their states. They will suffer no
Spaniard or stranger to travel through their terri-
tory, much less to explore it, without the permis-
sion and consent of the Cacique of the district ;
which permission he never gives, unless he knows
to whom it is given. This is likewise observed
with respect to the missionaries who travel in the
interior of the country without being accompanied
by the missionary of the district himself; for the
distrust of the Indians does not go so far as to make
use of these measures of precaution towards them.
Most of the Indians are Christians, and all, with-
out exception, desire, and wish that their children
should be baptized ; but they refuse, when they
come to an age to receive Christian instruction^ to
present them to the church ; because, say they, if
the missionaries make themselves masters of the
children, they would also make themselves masters
of the parents ; and they would, consequently, lose
the political liberty of their fathers. Therefore,
in the annexed tables, only those Indians will be
mentioned, who live in the missions as children oi'

'{» ^

CHILI.

31

the church, and not those who are mixed with the
heathens of the district.

For the rest, we refer to the account of Tliomas
Falkener, published in London, anno 177 1; this
El iglishman lived for forty years in Paraguay, the
kingdom of Chili, and on the coast of Patagonia.

The division of the Indians into four provinces
has been already mentioned. They are the Aran-
canians, the Llahistas, or inhabitants of the plain,
the Huylliches, and the Pehuenches. The Arau-
canians inhabit the coast, divided into the following
governments: Arauco, which gives the name to the
whole province ; Tucapen, out of which they have
always chosen their leaders for their greatest under,
takings, Lleulleu, Tixua, Imperial Baxa, Voxoa;
Token, where the jurisdiction of Valdivia begins,
Maxiguirra, Valdivia, Cuidico, Cumcos. Each
government has iU first Cacique, who governs all
the districts comprised in his territory. Over each
district presides an Indian of consideration, with
the title of Guilmen. The dignities of Cacique and
Guilmen are hereditary. The same division in the
government, and district, and the same names of
Cacique and Guilmen, are found in the three other
provinces ; among the Llanistas, inhabitants of the
plains the Huylliches, inhabitants of the declivity
of the Cordilleras ; the Pehuenches, inhabitants of
the vallies, hills, and interior vallies. No Cacique
or GuUem interferes with another's territory. They
call together provincial assemblies to transact im«

^2

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

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It a

4'

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portant business; those of the coast from Arauco to
Tolten, in Chili, and those from Toltento Cumcoii,
in Valdivic. The greatest harmony prevails among
them. The Caciques come alone, attended by a few
warriore to the provincial assemblies ; but if the
business concerns the whole country, deputies from
the other provinces take a part in the deliberations,
after the affair has been discussed in the assembly
of each province. All the Indians, except the
Peliuenches, cultivate the ground, and sow wheat,
maize, barley, beans of different sorts, and flax, of
which they eat the seeds, and use the straw for
brooms. They all possess horses, oxen, sheep, hogs,
and fowls; mules are very rare. They neither
plant nor sow vegetables or fruit-trees. Oxen and
horses alone spread the seeds of the apple-tree.
The Pehuenches have many studs, which fiirnisli
them with flesh and milk for food ; for though they
keep oxen and sheep, they never eat their flesh.
They manufacture the wool of their sheep them-
selves, and sell the oxen to the Spaniards. The
women are in general very industrious, assist their
husbands in the labours of the field, and live so
much in submission to them that the penance
which God laid upon the first woman is here fully
developed.

n^ r.

. i 'aM _ I i

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i i

,i5/Y?1^r CHILI.

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33

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of every

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and sex.

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Christians
of every
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and sex.

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«0»01O<O4O»04O4040404O«04O»04 |«^

VOL. III.

i
i

34

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

SHORT NOTICES

Of the Missions which have been lost, the year of their found-
ation, and when they were withdrawn, and of the fruits which
they have reaped.

MISSIONS.

Year of their

Found-

Loss.

Baptisms.

Marriages.

Burials.

ation.

P. Culiaco -

1758

1766

59

6

26

P. Ilorinlern

1758

1766

__

__

mmmt

P. Lolio

1766

1766

52

_

_

C. Imperial Buxa -

1768

1787

4

^

_

V. Tolten el Baxo -

1776

1787

179

6

6

" ■' I

294

12

32

>>' /;

■ p»

1:

11

* Geographical Situation. |

Extent.

Distance

MISSIONS.

Latitude.

Longitude.

N.S.

E. W.

fVom tlie
Collegr.

District.

Valdivia

O '

39 47

0 1

302 28

6

7

160

10

Mariquino

39 24

302 31

6

7

140

10

Arique

89 49

302 48

4

5

155

8

Niebla . -

39 49

302 32

9

2

160

6

Nanhhie

39 32

302 48

10

8

145

9

Quinchilca -

39 42

303 18

13

10

179

12

Rio Bueno -

40 29

303 24

7

8

190

12

Ualli PuUi -

40 18

303 21

7

8

187

8

Cudico - -

40 IS

303 18

4

185

7

Quilacahuin •

40 27

303 18

6

193

6

Cuyunca

40 36

303 21

8

199

7

Costa . -

40 37

302 47

7

201

6

Arauco

37 21

302 30

20

50

16

Tucapen

37 56

302 30

18

6

70

24

St. Barbara is-)

only an hos- 1
piul without r

36 41

304 2

—

-

40

—

cureoTsouls. )

* Astronomically determined by Cedillon.

..}

CHILI.

35

■ 'm''

leir found-
uits which

ges.

Burials.

26
6

32

nee
the

Remarks,

The missions marked t, owe their foundation to the
Jesuits, and came into the hands of the Franciscans
in the years mentioned in the table. Those marked
with letter V, are under the jurisdiction of Valdivia j
those marked O, under the jurisdiction of Osorno ;
and those with the letter C, in the jurisdiction of
Chili. All are properly missions, except St. Barbara,
which is an hospital for those who are destined
for the conversion of the Pehuenche nation, which
inhabits the Cordilleras. The Franciscans had three
missions there, which are marked in the second
table wiih the letter P, together with the years
when they were lost. For want of missionaries
they have not been re-established, though, in IS03,
the Indians applied for them j for they well know
how useful it is to them to have missionaries among
them, to help them, and check their rage for blind
heathenism. In the same table the missions marked
C, belong to Chili, and those with V, to Valdivia.

The three first missions in the second table are
situated in the Lower Alps of the Cordilleras de los
Andes, where, from the source of the river Nuble,
to the Archipelago of Chiloe, are the following
volcanoes : Chilian, Antuco, Callagui, Chandel,Vi]la-
rica, Huanchue, Copi, Llanguihue, and Purarauco.
It is to be observed, that at the foot of each of

D 2

wo

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

these volcanoes there is a large lake, and that the
principal rivers of this extensive countiy rise from
these lakes. Thus from Chilian, or out of its lake,
flows the river Nuble; from Antuco, the Laxa; from
Callagiu, the Biobio; from Chandel, the Imperial;
from Villa-rica, the Token; from Huanchue, the
river of Valdivia; from Copi, the Rio bueno; from
Llanguihue, the Pilmayguen ; and from Purarauco,
the river Rauhue, which waters the territory of
Osorno, and, half way to Chiloe, forms a second
branch, which is called Maypuhue.

The Indians who inhabit the Cordillera are called
Pehuenehes, a name which originates from the fir-
trees which abound there. They are extremely
robust, and inured to heat and cold beyond
all conception ; they are likewise very brave and
bold, and are much feared by the inhabitants of the
valley. Their usual diet is horse-flesh, and the
kernels of pine-cones, which the forests produce in
great abundance. They do not sow seeds of any
kind, and when they want vegetables they exchange
for them with the Indians in the plain, salt and the
kernels of pine-cones; they carry on the same barter-
ing trade with the Spaniards out of the territory
of the Cordilleras. They possess extremely rich
salt springs, which extend two days* journey from
east to south, without a single drop of sweet water
being found in this immense tract. The salt, which
is very wholesome, is as white as snow, and it is
very easy to reduce it to a powder as fine as flour.

It ii

CHILI.

37

The women, who are very industrious, weave a
great number of ponchos, while the men finish, at
times, and, as it were, for recreation, troughs and
other articles of wood. This industry is the fruit
of their intercourse with the Spaniards. Among
the few different kinds of trees which the Cordillera
produces, the fir-tree is the most esteemed. This
tree grows to the height of twenty-five varas,
(about seventy-five feet), and its thickness is in
proportion to its height. It is probable that if the
least attention were paid to it, it would surpass all
other wood for ship-building. The Pehuenches
extend their intercourse with the Spaniards beyond
the Cordillera to Buenos Ayres. They formerly
made incursions in the Pampas, plundered travel-
lers, penetrated into the small villages and settle-
ments of the Spaniards, murdered the men, and
carried off the women and children, whom they
treated as slaves. The missionaries have redeemed
several of these unfortunate people from them, and
set them at liberty. The Pehuenches are now
kept in check by the two forts of St. Juan and St.
Carlos, which the people of Mendosa have erected
in proper places.

.

f

,. .ft

i

»

I

•.

■t ..

■ ■ .

•t

' ■ s* V

■>' *

. • H '

, «

11 f-

I i '

" %

J\. •

,v.

'.V.'-'.i-^

D S

1

!J

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1

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'

.iMm ■

. t:

!.' «■ 'v'v'f't' J

: 7Ji! ':!.:. ^','- '^•^ ;'',»'7

1..

•

CALIFORNIA.*

•

I
\ i

i :

I

K.

I

?'

A LOW ridge of mountains borders the coast of
California, where we saw it, and intercepts the
prospect into the interior of the country. It has
not a volcanic appearance, t The harbour of San
Francisco, in which Burney, (Part I. p. 354.,) with
learned criticism, recognises the harbour of Sir
Francis Drake, enters through a narrow passage,
receives some rivers from the interior, branches out
behind the eminences, and forms into a peninsula,
the country lying south of the entrance. The
Presidio and the Mission of San Francisco lie on this
tongue of land, which, with its hills and downs,

* For accounts of California, see Noticia de la California
y de 8U Conquista, por el P. Miguel Venegas. Madrid, 1775.
4to. of which a Natural and Civil History of California, London,
1759, (Quare?) is a translation.

Diario Historico de los Viages deMar y Tierra hechos al I^orte
de la California. D. Vicente Vila. Mexico, 1769. Accounts
of the American Peninsula California, by a Priest of the Society
of Jesus, who has lately resided there many years. Mannheim,
1773. And the Voyages of La Pey rouse, Vancouver, and
Langsdorff.

t Near St. Barbara {3^" north latitude) there arises from the
coast a still burning volcano, the foot of which is washed by
the sea ; and in other placcsi of the peninsula, there are proofs
of a volcanic nature. . . ,.

I

CALIFORNIA.

39

was the narrow field which lay immediately open
to our researches. ,

The hills on the northern side of the harbour
are composed of flinty slate. The hill opposite to
them on the southern side, and on which the fort
lies, is of serpentine. On going along the strand,
towards the south, to the Punta delosLobos, the ser-
pentine ceases, and you meet several almost per-
pendicular strata of flinty slate, which rest against
coarse-grained sandstone, veined with calc-spar ;
and this sandstone, of which the more southern
hills to the Punta de los Lobos consist, seems to be
the kind of rock that lies the lowest. Quicksand
lies in many places at a considerable height over
the stone, and in many places new sandstone has
been formed.

The environs of San Francisco, in the northern
hemisphere, are much poorer in natural produc*
tions than the coast of Chili, under the same lati-
tude, in the southern. In the spring,, when winter
has afforded the earth some moisture, the hills and
valleys are indeed adorned with brilliant iris and
other flowers ; but the drought soon destroys them.

The fogs, which the prevailing sea-winds blow
over the coast, dissolve in summer over a heated
and parched soil, and the country exhibits in
autumn only the prospect of bare scorched tracts,
alternating with poor stunted bushes, and in places,
with dazzling wastes of drifl sand. Dark pine

D I*

40

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

! li

forests appear here and there on the ridge of the
mountains, betwieen the Punta de los Reyes and
the harbour of San Francisco. The prickly-leafed
oak, Quercus agrifblia, is the most common and
largest tree. With crooked boughs and entangled
branches, it lies, like the other bushes, bent to-
wards the land; and the flattened tops, swept
by the sea-wind, seem to have been clipped by the
gardener's shears. The Flora of this country is
poor, and is not adorned by one of those species
of plants which are produced by a warmer sun.
It however oilers much novelty to the botanist.
Well-known North American species* are found
mixed with others belonging to the country t j
and most of the kinds are yet undescribed. Only
Archibald, Menzies, and Langsdorff, have made
collections here ; and the fruits of their industry
are not yet made known to the world. The
season was not very favourable for us. We, how-
ever, gathered the seeds of several plants, and have
reason to hope that we shall be able to enrich our
gardens with them. ,ri{ -ym s/'jivi./

These deserts serve for the retreat of numerous
animals, of which many are probably not yet de-

♦ Cttanotus, Mimulus^ Oenothera^ Solidago, Aster Rhamnus,
Salix, Aesculus ? &c. Species of wild grapes, which we did not
see ourselves, are said to be very abundant in the interior, and
to produce fruit of an agreeable taste.

f Abronia, Eschschokia, Cham., and others which are to be
now doscrihcd.

.r

CALIFORNIA.

41

je of the
.eyes and
ily-leafed
mon and
entangled
bent to-
is, swept
;d by the
[)untry is
e species
mer sun.
botanist,
re found
Mintry t j
i. Only
ve made
industry
d. The
Ve, how-
md have
irich our

Limerous
yet de-

thamnus,
ve did not
rior, and

scribed. They are called here by the nanfies of well-
known'kinds ; small lions, wolves, and young stags,
goats, and rabbits. But their most terrible inmate
is the bear, which, according to the accounts of the
hunters, is uncommonly large, powerful, savage,
and tenacious of life. He attacks men and ani-
mals, though there is no want of vegetable food,
and collects, in countless troops, round the dead
whales that are cast on the beach. The colour of
his fur changes from brown into very light, and is
frequently spotted with other colours. It does not
appear to be the white bear of Lewis and Gierke,
and is not the well-known American black bear.
To judge by the one we saw, (a young female,) we
could not distinguish it from the European brown
bear, and the skull, which Professor Rudolphi has
examined, seems to him to belong to this species.
The Spaniard is very skilful in catching this danger-
ous beast with the noose, and takes pleasure in its
combat with the bull. The whales and seals of
the north visit this coast ; the sea-lion is common,
and the sea-otter now no where more frequent
than here.

There is an uncommon number and variety of
birds, the Oriolus phaniceus is found in innumerable
flocks. We did not see a single kind of the family
of creepers, and a splendid humming-bird seemed
to be a stranger which had strayed hither from the
south.

Melancholy feelings attend our oflbring a few

42

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

t «

words on the Spanish settlements on this coast.
With an avaricious thirst for possession, Spain ex-
tends her territory here, merely because she envies
others the room. She maintains her Presidios at a
great expence, and tries, by the prohibition of all
trade, to force ready money back to its source.
But a little liberty would make California the
granary and market of the northern coasts of these
seas, and the general resort of the ships which
navigate them. Corn, oxen, salt, (at St. Quentin,
Old California,) wine, the produce of which would
increase the demand, give it in many respects a
superiority over the Sandwich islands, though their
situation, on the route between China and the
north-west coast, is more advantageous. But in-
dustry and navigation, the ofispring of liberty,
would speedily transfer a profitable share in this
trade to California, which possesses the sea-otters
in greater abundance than all the other coasts.*

Yet California lies without industry, trade,
and navigation, desert and unpeopled, t It has
remained neglected, without any importations
from Mexico, during the six or seven years of the
war between Spain and its colonies. The ship
from St. Bias, which formerly brought supplies to

f^ur

:."i(

! * The Californian sea-otter skin is indeed inferior tu the
northern, but the difference is not very great.

f As a proof, it may be mentioned, that the cwt. of flour
costs, in the missions of this country, six piasters ; while at
^ixi Bias it costs forty, and at Acapuico tifty.

/o

CALIFORNIA.

I

43i

these settlements yearly, arrived in Monterey only'
while we were there. The missions possess some
bad barks in the harbour of San Francisco, built by
foreign captives. Even the Presidio has not at
single boat; and other havens are no better off^
Strangers catch otter-skins even in the Spanish
harbours ; and only a smuggling trade, which the
new governor of California, since his appointment
(fourteen months ago) has tried to supp ress, fur>
nishes this province with the most indiijpensable
articles. Spain has given way in the affair of
Nootka. England and the United States^ without
regarding its vain territorial possessions, are now
negotiating about the colony at the moutib of the
Columbia; and the Russian American Ci^mpany
have still a settlement a few leagues north t:>f San
Francisco. » *

But the maintenance of this colony is asc ribed
to another motive besides policy: namely, the
pious intention of propagating the Christian re-
ligion, and the conversion of heathen natio^ns.
The governor of the province himselfj infomied
us, that this was the real state of the cs^se. "W ell,
then, a good work has been here injudiciously Vie-
gun and ill-executed.

The pious Franciscans, who hold the missions in
New California, are not skilled in the arts and
trades which they ought to exercise and teac'li, nor
in any of the languages spoken by the nati«ons to
whom they are sent. They are monks, exactly

41

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

^

^ll\

'»'4

like those in the convents of Europe. • They
direct a considerable agricultural establishment;
(always two in each mission,) perform divine service,
and converse with those committed to their charge,
by means of interpreters, who are themselves
Indians. All property belongs to the community
of the mission, and is administered by the fathers.
The savage Indian derives no immediate advantage
from his labours ; no wages, if he happens to be let
out as a day-labourer on the Presidio. The mission
receives the money which he earns. He acquires
no notion of property, and is not bound by it. We
do not deny the mildness, the paternal anxiety of
the mivssionaries, of which we have several times
been witnesses, t The relation still remains what

* yft were more oiFended than edified by a sermon preached
in the Spanish language, in the mission of San Francisco, on the
Saint's day ; and in which the patron saint was placed on an
equality with Christ.

f The following is one example: The fathers sent the
Indians in their boat to our anchoring-place, merely that they
might look at our ship, which was a new object to them. The
Indian, in the mission, dances his national dances, on Sun-
day, in presence of the fathers, and plays, always for gain, his
usual game of chance ; he is only forbidden to stake his coat,
a piece of coarse woollen cloth, manufactured in the mission :
he can also enjoy the hot-bath, to which he has been accus-
tomed. The dances are boisterous, different in each tribe, and
the tune generally without words. The game is played between
two antagonists, at « odd or even," with short sticks ; an um-
pire keeps the account with other sticks. The usual bath
of the Indians, like that of most of the northern nations, is the
following : at the entrance of a cave on the sea-shore, in which
the bathers are, a great fire is made ; they suffer it to go out,

M

l-*i

CALIFORNIA.

4^5

is here represented ; and, in our opinion, it would
differ only in name, if the master of slaves kept
them to work, and let them out at pleasure, he
also would give them food.

The savage comes unthinkingly into the mis-
sion *, receives the food which is willingly offered
him, and listens to the instructions : he is still free.
But as soon as he is baptized, he belongs to the
church ; and hence he looks with pain and longing
to his native mountains. The church has an in-
alienable right to her children, and exercises this
right with rigour. Ui ? .tut

The savage is inconsiderate and inconstant, like
a child. Work, to which he is unaccustomed, is
too difficult for him ; he repents of the step whicli
binds him, and demands his pristine liberty. The
love of home, is, in him, a ruling passion. The
fathers allow their Indians, for the most part, twice
a year, a leave of absence for some weeks to visit
their friends, and their native place, t On occa-

when they have perspired sufficiently, and then leap over it, and
plunge into the sea. A vapour bath, resembling the Russians
was formerly used by most European nations. Erasmus Ro-
terodamus Coll. Diversoria. Atque ante annos viginti quinque
nihil receptius erat apud brabantos quam thermae publics, ese
nunc, frigent ibique, scabies enim nova docuit nos a>stinere.

* There is no fixed boundary to the diff*erent missions. The
Indian goes at pleasure from one «o the other.

f Two sick people, a man and his wife, whose end seemed to
be fast approaching, being tmable to undertake the journey,

4«6

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

sion of these journeys, which are undertaken in
companies, apostacco fhll oft', and new converts come
in. The first, some of whom become the bitterest
enemies to the Spaniards, the missionaries endea-
vour, on their excursions, to regain by gentle
means ; and if they do not succeed, they have re-
course to the armed force. Hence many of the
hostile events between the Spaniards and In-
dians.

-i The Indians die in the missions, in an alarming
and increasing proportion. San Francisco con-
tains about a thousand Indians : the number of
deaths, in the last year, exceeded three hundred ;
it amounts already this year, (till October,) to two
hundred and seventy, of which forty occurred
during the last month. But the number of pro-
selytes must exceed that of the apostates and the
excess of deaths. Five missions were named to us,
which have been founded in this province, since
the time of Vancouver. On the other hand,
several of the missions of the Dominicans in Old

liad remained behind the throng of departing Indians. Tliey
did not return to the mission ; they laid themselves naked as
they were on the damp ground, on the shore near our tents,
without a covering from the stormy rainy nights. Their looks
were fixed on their blue mountains; they saw tlieir native
home ; and thus consoled themselves for not being able to
reach it. The fathers after a few days, observing them, sent
them back into the mission, addressing them with much mild-
ness.

A

CALIFORNIA.

47

rtaken in
ertscome
! bitterest
es endea-
>y gentle
r have re-
ly of the
and In-
alarming
isco con-
umber of
hundred ;
r,) to two
occurred
of pro-
and the
ed to us,
e, since
r hand,
s in Old

ins. Tliey
naked as

I our tents,
leir looks
9ir native
able to
)eni, sent
ich mild-

California, have ceased to exist ; and the con-
verted people may be considered as nearly extinct.
There is no medical assistance here, except bleed-
ing, which is said to have been taught them by a
ship's surgeon ; and this remedy being since applied
on every occasion, is more fatal than advantageous.
Particularly one disorder, which, though the opi-
nions are divided, has probably been spread by the
Europeans, carries off its victim without opposition.
It likewise prevails among the savage tribes : these
latter do not, however, disappear from the earth
with the same dreadful rapidity. The number of
whites, on the other hand, increases.

The contempt which the missionaries have for
the people, to whom they are sent, seems to us,
considering their pious occupation, a very unfor-
tunate circumstance. None of them appear to
have troubled themselves about their history, cus-
toms, religions, or languages : ** They are irrational
savages, and nothing more can be said of them.
Who would trouble himself with their stupidity ?
who would spend his time upon it ?"

In fact, these tribes are far below those on the
north coast, and the interior of America. In
their general appearance, they resemble each
other, except the Tcholovonians, whom we soon
learnt to distinguish by their marked physiog-
nomy, which the fathers could not do. Thity
have all a very savage look, and are of a very dark
colour. Their flat, broad countenance, with large
staring eyes, is shaded by black, thick, long, and

iff:

I if.

t if!

ii

^i

M"

'St

^ i'

I

i

'i'f

ii

f«;|f1

m

fir

48

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

smooth hair. The gradations of colour, the
languages, which are radically different from each
other ; the mode of life, arts, arms, in some of
them various lines tattooed about the chin and
neck, the way in which they paint themselves for war
and for the dance, distinguish the different tribes.
They live among the Spaniards, and among them-
selves in different, friendly, or hostile relations.
Among many of them their arms consist of bows
and arrows ; some of these are of extraordinary ele-
gance, the bows light and strong, and covered with
the sinews of animals on the convex side ; among
others it is merely of wood, and rudely made : some
possess the art (women's work) of constructing
neat and water-proof vessels of coloured .blades of
grass J but the Indian, for the most part, forgets his
industry in the missions. They all go naked. They
do not possess horses nor canoes of any kind j they
only know how to fasten together bundles of rushes,
which carry them over the water by their compa-
rative lightness. Those who live near rivers subsist
principally on salmon, which they catch in baskets ;
those in the mountains on wild fruits and grain.
They neither sow nor reap, but burn their mea-
dows from time to time to increase their fertility.
» The South Sea islands, far distant from each
other, and dispersed over nearly one-third of the
torrid zone, speak one language. In America, here
in New California, tribes of one race, living near to
each other, speak quite different languages. Every
fragment of the history of man is of importance.

califohnia.

49

We must leave it to our successors, as our prede-
cessors have done to us, to collect more satisfactory
intbrmation respecting the natives of California and
their languages.* We had proposed this as our
object in a journey which we intended to make to
some of the nearest missions. Business however
of another kind kept us at San Francisco, and the
period fixed for our departure came without our
being able to afford time for this journey ; for the rest
we refer to the accounts of La Peyrouse and Van-
couver, which we found very correct. Since their
time there has been but little change in California.
A fort, erected in a good situation, guards the har-
bour of San Francisco. The Presidio is new built
with stone, and covered with tiles. The building
^f the chapel has not been begun. In the missions
ihey build in the same manner, and the barracks
of the Indians at San Francisco are of similar con-
struction. An artillerist has erected mills in the
missions, worked by horses j but they are now for
the most part out of order, and cannot be repaired.
At San Francisco is a stone which a horse turns
without mechanism over ano.ther stone, the only
mill in order. The Indian women rub the corn
between two stones for immediate use. A wind-
mill of the Russian American Company's settlement
creates astonishment, but does not find imitators.

♦ De Lamon has given valuable information in La Peyrouse's
Voyage, on the languagcH of the Achastlians, and Eclemachus,
near Monterey. For further particulars, see Adelunge, Mith-
ridates, 3. 3. p. 182.

VOL. III. B

50

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

I fl^

Some years ago, when artizans were brought here
at a great expense to teach the necessary arts, the In-
dians profited more by then- instructions than the
gente rational (rational people) as the Spaniards
call themselves.

We observed with regret, that the best understand-
ing does not exist between the missions and the Pre-
sidio. The fathers consider themselves as the first in
this country, and the Presidios merely sent for its
protection. A soldier, who constantly carries and
often uses arms, unwillingly bears the government
of the church. The Presiilios, living only on their
pay, depend for the supply of their wants upon the
missions *, from which they purchase for ready
money ; they suffered distress in this latter period,
neglected by the mother country, and accused the

* At the head of each mission are two Franciscans, who have
engaged to spend ten years in this hemisphere. They are dis-
pensed from the rules of their order, and receive four hundred
piastres each from the crown. Several missions are under one
Presidio. The commandant of the Presidio, captain of a com-
pany, has under him an artillery officer, a commissary, a lieu-
tenant, an ensign, and eighty men ; each of whom receives two
hundred piastres a year. The Spaniard is always on horseback.
Horses and oxen are kept in herds, and are almost wild ; when
wanted, the;" are caught with a lazo (a noose). The arms arc,
the lance, shield, and musket. The Presidios have no tillage ;
the officers hardly cultivate a little garden-ground ; they con-
sider themselves as exiles, who wait with impatience their
speedy recal. The Pueblas, as they are called, which are few
in number, are Spanish villages. Some colonists, and veteran
soldiers constitute the population. Their wives are, for the
most part, Indian women. The Governor of New California, at
Monterey, as well as the Governor of Old California, at Loretto,
i« under the Viceroy of Mexico.

CALIFORNIA.

51

inission of not endeavouring to relieve them. Before
we conclude, we must mention the generous hospi-
tality with which both the military and the mission-
aries strove to supply our wants, and they willingly
granted an unconstrained freedom, which we here
enjoyed on Spanish ground. We dedicate these
lines of remembrance and gratitude to our friends
in California.

The following races of Californians were named
to us, as living within the precincts of the mission
of San Francisco.

The Guymen
Utschiun
Olumpali
Soclan, and
Sonomi

The Chulpun
Umpin
Kosmitas
Bolbones
Tchalabones
Pitem
Lamam
Apalamu
and
Tchobvones

The Suysum
Numpali
and
Tamal

Speak all one language ; they
»are the most numerous of any
in the mission of St. Francisco.

Live at Rio del Sacramento ;
and all speak but one language.
They are the most skilled in
^arms. The Tcholovones, a war-
like tribe, are united with the
Spaniards against the other In-
dians.

} Tattoo themselves, al! speak the
same language, and live to the
north : the Tamal live towards
the north-west.

live more to the north than the

The Ululato
Suysum, and only a few come into the mission.

E SJ

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52

THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

M!

I

Cavite, situated on the extreme point of a tongue
of land, which projects into the beautiful and much-
frequented bay of Manilla, and cuts off a part of
it, is the most unfavourable station for a traveller,
who, during his short stay in Lugon, intends to
employ his time in examining the nature of the
country. The tongue of land, and the finely-cul-
tivated banks of the bay up to Manilla, belong to
civilized man. Between the houses and villages
you see only rice-fields, gardens, and plantations,
in which grow the plants of both the Indies.

We had an opportunity to make only one excur-
sion, of eight days, into the interior, to Taal, and
the volcano, of the same name, in the Laguna de
Bonborig. The military escort accompanying us,
which was a mark of Spanish pomp, was very
troublesome, and increased the expenses of a jour-
ney where only a guide would have been requisite
among the mild and hospitable Tagalese. The
island of L.u9on is every where high and mountain-
ous ; the highest summits do not seem, however,
to exceed the woody region. Three volcanoes rise
from it : first, in the north, the Aringuay, in the
territory of the Ygorrotes, in the province of Ilocos,
which, on the 4tli of January, 164-1, broke out at

THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

,53

the same time with the volcano of lolo, and the
Sanguil, in the south of Magindanao, on which oc-
casion this island presented one of the most terrible
scenes recorded in history*; the noise was heard
on the continent of Cochin-Cliina. Secondly, the
volcano de Taal, which particularly threatens the
capital, from which it is distant a day's journey ;
and, lastly, the far.seen Mayon, near the Embo-
cadera de San Btx iiardino, between Albay and Ca-
marines.

Gold, iron, and copper-mines, which are very
rich, but neglected, show that there are other
mountains as well as volcanic. On the way we
went, we saw no other than volcanic tuff, consist-
ing of ashes, pumice-stones, and dross ; and, in
Manilla, Cavite, Taal, Balayan, &c., no other stone
ibr building but this same tuff and calcareous reef-
stone, procured from the sea. The granite, used
in Manilla for building, is brought here as ballast
from the coast of China.

As you go from Cavite, southward towards
Taal, the land insensibly and gradually rises till
you reach the eminences on the other side, which
are rugged and steep, and from which you may
overlook, at your feet, the Laguna de Bongborig,
and the large smoking crater, which ibrins in it a
dreary, naked island.

* The journals of Manilla mention the destructive earth-
quakes, in the year 1645 and 164^8.

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

The lake (the Lagiina) is about six German
miles in circumference ; it empties itself into the
Chinese Sea by an outlet, navigable now only for
small boats, though formerly it could carry larger
vessels ; it runs with great rapidity, and the length
of its course is above a German mile. Since the
devastation in 1754<, Taal has been removed to its
mouth.

The water in the Laguna is brackish ; but it is,
however, drinkable. In the middle it is reported
to be unfathomable. It is said to be full of sharks
and caymans, of which, however, we saw none.
'' As we were embarking from the Laguna for the
island, the Tagalese exhorted us to look round us
in this haunted place, but to keep silence, and not
to irritate the spirit by any incautious, inconsider-
ate word. The volcano, they said, showed symp-
toms of displeasure whenever a Spaniard visited it,
atid was indifferent only to the natives.

The island is nothing but a mass of ashes and
scoriae, which has fallen in itself, and formed the
wide irregular crater, which creates so much ter-
ror. It does not appear that lava has ever flowed
out of it. From the bank, where a little grass
grows in scanty spots, and where some cattle are
kept to pasture, you climb, on the east side, up a
bare and steep ascent, and, in about a quarter of
an hour, reach the edge, from which you look down
into the abyss as into the area of an extensive
circus. A pool of yellow, sulphureous water occu-

•r'^mMm ' ■!— miip

THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

55

pies about two -thirds of the bottom. Its level
seems to be the same as that of the Laguna. On
the southern edge of this pool are several hills of
sulphur, which are slowly burning. Towards the
south and east of it, a narrower crater is beginning
to form itself in the interior of the great crater.
The arch which it makes surrounds, like the
moraine of a glazier, the burning hills by which it
is produced, and rests with both its ends on the
pool. The pool boils, from time to time, at the
foot of the burning hills.

You can clearly distinguish, in the internal wall
of the crater, the situation of the differently colour-
ed scoriae of which it consists. Smoke ascends from
some points of it.

We observed from the place where we made a
drawing of the crater, a place on the opposite side
of it, where a fall into the interior seemed to afford
a slope, from which it might be possible to descend
to the bottom. It cost us much time and trouble
to gain this point, as we found the sharp and pointed
edge on which we walked, in many places impass-
able, and were frequently obliged to descend on the
outside almost to the bank. Being under the wind
of the fire, we were but slightly incommoded by
the sulphureous exhalations.
. The place just mentioned is that on which,
during the last eruptions, the water poured that
was thrown up. We attempted to descend into
several clefts, but were ultimately obliged to aban-

E 4

56

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

don our intention after we bad reached about two-
thirds of the depth. We v'^ere not provided in
Taal with the cords we required, and by the as-
sistance of which we might probably have de-
• scended the perpendicular wall of several fathoms
high, which first presented itself to us, without
being able to reach the bottom, as the precipice
became always steeper the farther we descended.
We found, in this neighbourhood, the ground
covered with crystallized salt. * The time was too
short to permit us to visit other hills. The other
craters are at the foot of the principal crater.

The most terrible eruption of the Volcano de
Taal was in the year 17^4. Its devastating pro-
gress is circumstantially related in the twelfth chap-
ter of the thirteenth part of the history by Fr. Juan
de la Donc^tion. The mountain was ti-anquil after
the former eruptions, (the last took place in the
year 1716,) and sulphur was obtained from the ap-
pateatly extinguished crater. It began to smoke
anew in the beginning of August ; and, on the 7th,
flames were seen, and the earth trembled. The
consternation increased from the Sd of November
to the l^h of December ; ashes, sand, mud, fire,
and water were thrown up^ Darkness, hurricanes,
thunder and lightning, subterraneous roarings,
and long-protracted, violent, and repeated earth-

^ * According to Dr. Mitscherlich's examination, Phtmose
alum.

THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

57

quakes, alternated in frightful succession. Taal,
lying at that time on the banks of the Laguna,
and several villages, were totally ruined and over-
thrown. The mouth of the volcano was too con-
fined for such eruptions ; it widened considerably,
and a second opened, which likewise threw up fire
and mud. Nay, even more, the fire broke out in
sevei'al places in the Laguna, at a considerable
depth below the surface of the water, which boiled
up. The earth opened in many places, and a deep
gulf yawned particularly wide, extending far in
the direction to Calanbong. The mountain con-
tinued to smoke a long time. There have since
been eruptions, though with decreasing violence.

The beautiful forests which clothe, in luxuriant
verdure, the mountains and a part of the country,
extend to the sea, into which the mangroves and
other trees hang down. We have had but a cur-
sory view of these forests, in a trodden path, and
have not penetrated far enough into them, to be
able to give a proper description. The fig.tree
seemed to us to predominate. Several species rest
themselves, as mighty trees, on a singular net of
stems, and creeping plants, which twine round the
rocks, and spread themselves out over them.
Others rise with slender stems to an astonishing
height, and you perceive the enigmatical fruit on
the under branches of the trees, whose crown is
lost amid the verdant canopy of the forest. Some
species remain shrubby, and others twine. We

.58

RK.MAUKS AND OriNIONS.

1 1

missed in the Ibrests the beautiful form of the aca-
cia-trees, with their variously feathered leaves. The
numerous species of the siliquose plants adopt
here all imaginable forms. The fern-plants, and
particularly the arborescent kinds, the Lianes,
the Orchidece, plants which, in Brazil, form airy
gardens on the tops of the trees, seem to be
very few in number, or to be entirely want-
ing, like the Cactus or the Bromeliace(e. Nature
bears a different and more tranquil character. The
kinds of palm are more numerous than at Saint
Catharine's. Several of these are insignificant, the
slender prickly calamus is probably the most re-
markable. Among the Aroidete, the Fothos scan-
dens, with its grass-like leaves, narrowed in the
middle, creeping up the branches of the trees, is
very striking by its form.

On the low grounds and banks of tlie rivulets
grows the elegant bamboo-cane *, whose slender
halms shooting forth in thick bushes, lightly glide
over each other, sounding to the play of the wind,
and a close thicket offers the richest variety of
plants.

On the plains, forests alternate with savannahs,

* The halm of the bamboo shoots up, in one rainy season,
to the greatest height it can attain, turns woody the following
year, and spreads out side-branches without growing higher.
Tlie young shoot is eatable, like that of the asparagus. Some
of the kinds described by Loureiro are native here ; we saw
the blossom of none.

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whose Flora is extremely scanty. Two kinds of
grass, the hahns of which reach a height of about
eight feet, and which are scorched by the sun, ap-
pear to have been sown, and ripening for the harvest.
A very few dwarf-plants, for the most part sili-
quose, conceal themselves in their shade, and an
arborescent Bmihinia rises here and there among
them.

These savannahs are set fire to, either tc/ prepare
them for cultivation, or to procure gruns oi a
younger growth for the herds. T\w. fire crac)des
over them, and a small species o£ hf;*vk av-.d other
birds actively fly round the clo'.ids cf sn^oke that
rise before the advancing fire, in cbnae of die in-
sects which fly to escape from it * ,

Circumstances confined o»t' researcl'cs in ffje
system of organized nature, almost ejckisiw?/ to
botany and entomology. We, however, find occa-
sion to say a few words on a mariiie insect, Ief«
known to the learned than the knercantii ; world.

Under the general name of Fkhe de mcr, iii
Malayan, Trepang, and in Spanisii, Balaie, certain
dried and smoked Kolothuria, of seven, and per-
haps more kinds, are brought to the market cif
Canton, each having its particuiar value and name.
The same epicurism of the ChirAtge» v- .'ijch attaches
a high value to the birds* ne^+s tvliich are known even
in Europe, maintains aisc' the value of the Trepang
by the great demai'.d. The Malays look for it as
far as the ', oa^it of New Holland, in the gulf of

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UK MARKS AND OI'INIONS.

Carpentaria ; the Malays and Chinese, as iar as
the coast oJ^' New Guinea ; the English have it col-
lected in the Pelew islands by sailors left there for
the purpose. The Spaniards bring it from the
Marianes, and, as it gradually vanishes from tlie
coasts on which it is sought, they undertake
voyages to tlie Carolinas, of which we shall speak
in another place, to discover it. The Trepang ap-
pears to be also collected in the Indian Ocean, and
epecially on the island of Mauritius, for trade.
These Holothuria are particularly found on the
coral reefs, where some species are gathered, as at
lladack, on tiie beach when the tide is down,
whereas others seem to live in deeper water. We
have had an opportunity of examining more accu-
rately, and of drawing this one species. It is one
of the smaller and less valued ; the others resemble
it. All real Holothuria may be eaten as Trepang,
This precious worm is collected in many places
in the Philippine islands.

The entomological kingdom is rich in these islands.
The butterflies, beetles, and bugs are particularly
beautiful. A scorpion seems to be the same kind
as that met with in the islands of the Great Ocean,
and which we also collected in Radack, but we
found them much larger here. Termites and mus-
quitoes are the torment of the inhabitants. A large
Mantis (leaf-fly), which is very frequent in Manilla,
probably gave occasion to Pigafetta's story of the
living leaves on a tree in the island of Cimbonbon.

THE rrilLIPPINK ISLANDS.

rilis tradition, and similar ones of the living sea-
weed, &c. of the people with tails, &c. which Fr.
Juan de la Conception relates in his history are
still recorded by the Spaniards ; for nobody here
has any taste for natural history, or indeed for any
science, and every one asks only for what he wants,
or what is necessary to him in his business. The
collection of natural history of D. Gonzales de
Caragual, intendant of the Philippine islands at the
time of La Pey rouse, (1787») J»as since been sent
from Manilla to the mother-country.

The learned Cuellar, who was sent from Spain
with a commission to promote several economi-
cal objects, the cultivation of cotton, of cinnamon,
&c., and, after a long residence on these islands,
died several years ago at Manilla, had formed a
botanical-garden in Cavite, of which there is now
not a trace remaining. Cuellar sent specimens of
natural productions of all kinds to Madrid ; took
much pains to purchase Chinese books ; enriched
the gardens of Madrid and Mexico with the seeds
of several plants of this country, and maintained
learned correspondences in both the Old and the
New Worlds. We have examined his papers, and
convinced ourselves, that every thing relating to
science had been snatched from oblivion and sent
to Spain. It appears that Cavanille has described
his collection of plants, as well as those of Males-
pina's expedition, wliich lost here one of its na-
turalists.

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

, To collect the abundant harvest which natural
science has still to reap here, requires a longer
stay, and excursions to the different, and, more ))ar.
ticularly to the more promising southern islands
and into the interior of them. There is still much
to be done, and employment for many.

The Philippine islands have to boast of more
minute historians than many European king-
doms. * We are obliged to the translator of Zuuiga

* Antonia dc Morga, Succsos dc Pliilipinas, Mexico, 1603.
Pedro Murillo Valarde, Historia dc la Provincia de Pliilipinas
de la Compania de Jesus, Manila en la imprenta de la Comp.
dc Jesus, 1749, 2 vols. fol.

Juan de la Concepcion, Recoleto Augustino descalzo. His-
toria General de Philipinas, Manila, 1788 — 92. livols. 4to.
Joaquin Martinez de Zuniga del ordende San Augustin
Historia de las Islas Philipinas, Sampaloc, 1803, 1 vol. ito: of
which an English translation has already passed through two
editions. An Historical View of the Philippine Islands, from
the Spanish of Martinez de Zuniga, by John Maver, London,
1814.

Poblacion de Philipanii, fol.: an imperfect statistical table,
with many errata in the figures, printed at Cavite en S. Tehno,
1817. It appears, tliat similar tables have appeared previously,
from about the year 1734.

Carta edificante o Viage a la Provincia de Taal y Balayan,
por el Abate Don Pedro Andres de Castro y Amccdo, 1790,
4to. : MSS. in our possession.

Besides these, the following historians are mentioned, which
we have not had an opportunity to consult. •'

Fr. Caspar de san Augustin.

Colin Historia de Philipinas : an extract from the following,
Pedro Chirino, Historia de I^ilipinas, I vol., fol. : MSS. of the
library of the Colegio, and different chronicles and histories of
several monks' orders, or rather of their province, the Philippine

THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

(')3

i'or having spared us the duty of stopping at
this disgusting history, which consists of nothing
but a mixture of monastical disputes, and of tiie
struggles of the spiritual power with the temporal ;
in which the accounts oi the missions in China,
Japan, &c. appear in a very unfavourable light.
Fr. Juan de la Conception has brought the history
down to the government of Aranda, in the year
1764. We shall now take a cursory view of the
present state of this Spanish settlement.

The Spaniards include under the jurisdiction of
this government, the Mariana islands, the Caroline
islands, of which wrecked boats from thence gave
them the first information, and to which they resolv>
ed to extend their faith and their yoke ; and, lastly,
the southern islands of the Philippines, Magin-

islands, which has been preserved in MS. in tlic convents of
these orders at Manilla.

History qf the Marianes. t

Charles Gobien, Histoire des Isles Marianes, nouvellement
converties k la Religion Chr^tienne, et de la Mort glorieuse des
Premiers Missionaires qui y ont prfich^ la foi, Paris, 1700.

History qfthe Discovery qf the Caroline Islands, and the

Missions to them,

Lettres ^difiantes, v. 1. 2d edition, v. 11. 16.18. Murillo
Velarde and Juan de la Conception, seem to have consulted no
other authorities than tlic letters and reports here enumerated.

On the Pelew Islands in particular.
George Keate, Esq. An Account of the Pelew Islands, from
the Journal and Communications of Captain Henry Wilson,
5th edition, London, 1803, 4to.

REMARKS AND OPINTONS.

danao, Jolo, &c. possessions of their hereditary
enemies, the Moors, or Mahometan Indians, who
do not cease to spread consternation and devasta-
tion, by piracies, over all the coasts in the hands of
the Christians.

The Presidio of Sanboangan, on the west point
of Magindanao, is designed to keep this race in
check, but is, in fact, like the government of the
Mariana islands, only a source of revenue to the
commandant, calculated according to the years of
his government, to enrich himself by the exclusive
trade with all the salaries appointed for the garrison
and public officers.

The expeditions which are sent out from Manilla
in armed boats, are not more serviceable. They
only protect the smuggling trade, and Christians
and Moors avoid each other with the same dili-
gence. Onl)» the Bay of Manilla, which was
represented as unsafe by La Peyrouse, seems to be
now closed against the pirates.

There are, in the Philippine islands, besides the
Spaniards, who are looked upon as foreign masters,
and the Chinese, their parasites, two native races
of men : Papuas in the interior, and the Malays
in a more extended signification, or southJanders
on the coasts. The Spaniards are but few in
number. The Chinese, who are called Sangalese,
that is " Wandering Merchants," (they might
be called the Jews of this pait of the world,)
differ in their numbers at different times ^ some-
times greater, and at other times less. Their

THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

C)5

civil relation docs not rest on a firm, fixed com-
pact ; and history shows them to us sometimes as
tolerated, sometimes as persecuted, and at other
times as insurgents. Many of them, to settle with
more security, suffer themselves to be baptized,
and when they leave Manilla, with the riches they
have acquired, in ships of their own nation, fre-
quently send to the archbishop the white Neo-
phytes* dress and cross, which they have received
from him, that he may confer them on others of
their countrymen.

The Papuas, the first possessors of the soil, the
Actos or Negritos of the Spaniards, are savages,
who, without a fixed abode, without agriculture,
rove about the mountains, and live by the chase,
on wild fruits and honey. They cannot be en-
ticed to adopt any other mode of life. Even those
who have been brought up from their childhood
among Spaniards are wavering Christians, and not
seldom fly from their patrons to the people of their
own colour in the desert. They appear to be
more hostile to the Indians who drove them out,
than to the Spaniards who are their avengers.
Very little is known respecting them, and we were
not fortunate enough to obtain any decisive in-
formation on this subject. They are, in general,
represented to be i mild and unsuspicious people ;
and, in particular, have never been accused of
eating human flesh. They go naked, except an
a])ron of the bark of trees. We tried in vain to see

VOL. in. F

66

REMARKS AKD OPINIONS.

■4tl

this article of dress, or any thing of their manu-
facture, and must leave it undetermined, whether
this bark is worked raw, or after the manner of the
southern stuffs. We saw of this race only two
young girls, who were brought up in Manilla and
Cavite, in Spanish families. There were, besides,
two men condemned to work at the fortifications
in Cavite.

Of the Malays, the Indios of the Spaniards, there
are different tribes, and people speaking different
languages, whom history makes to come from
Borneo and Magindanao. Many tribes in the in-
terior have retained their liberty : the inhabitants of
the coasts are Christians, in the hands of the monks,
and subject to the Spanish crown.

The independent tribes deserved our most par-
ticular attention, but we were unable to procure
any farther information respecting them. They
differ from each other in many points, and what is
applicable to one is not to be extended to all. It
is to be observed that, by some of them, chastity is
held in great honour, not only among the women,
but also among the young girls, and is protected
by very severe laws. A kind of circumcision is
said to be a primitive custom among others, and not
to be derived from Mahometanism.

The Indians of the Philippines are in general a
friendly, harmless, cheerful, and cleanly people,
whose character reminds us more of the inhabitants
of the eastern islands than of the real Malays, or the

THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

67

cruel Battas. Corruption of manners prevails only
among the lowest class, who surround strangers in
Manilla and Cavite. We refer to the authorities
quoted, and to Pigafetta's voyage, for the manners,
customs, and numerous superstitions of these people.
The table of population for the year 1815 estimates
the subjects of Spain, in the jurisdiction of this
government, at two millions and a half.* The
receiving o£ baptism is considered as a mark of
subjection. In this number are not included two
thousand families of unconverted Indians (Tin-
guianes) of the province dc Ylocos, in the north of
Lu9on ; about a thousand families of the unconvert-
ed Indians (Ygorrotest) in the mountain of the
same province; twelve hundred families of the
Negritos of the same mountain ; and, lastly, above
nine himdred families of the unconverted Indians
of the province of Calamianes, who all pay tiibute,
each ill diflerent goods, and particularly the Negritos,
in virgin wait. The population of Manilla is esti-
mated at nine thousand souls, exclusive of the

* The usual manner of making the censug, is by the tri-
bute which is paid by every family. Tribute or family ig
reckoned on an average at five souls. In the same table it is
mentioned, diat the population has increased about one million
seven thousand souls, since the year 1734<.

f The physiognomy of these Ygorrotes dc Ylocos, and their
lighter colour, prove that they have mixed with the companions
of Limahon, who fled to their mountains, when Juan de Salceda
besieged the Chinese in Pangasinon.

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68

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

clergy, garrison, settled Spaniards, Europeans, and
Chinese, who make from four to six thousand.

Manilla, with its harbour of Cavite, appears to
be the only considerable Spanish town in the Philip-
pines. In the provinces, you see the splendid
edifices and temples of the clergy rising among the
slight and cleanly huts of the natives, which, as at
the time of Pigafetta, are raised on posts made of
bamboo-cane and prickly interwoven calamus, and
covered with Nepa leaves, and may be compared
to elegant bird-cages. The fire often consumes
such villages as easily and rapidly as the dry grass
of the savannahs; and, in a few days, they rise again
from their ashes.

The Spaniards in Manilla live chiefly in that
part of the town which is properly fortified, on
the lefl bank of the river. The suburbs of the
Chinese, surrounded with shops and booths, and
that of those Tagalese with beautiful gardens, extend
on the right bank. The streets of the town are
regular. The houses massive, of one story, built
on a ground-story, which is not used. The damp-
ness of the rainy season has taught the Spaniards
to follow the example of the natives. They are
entirely surrounded on the outside with galleries,
the windows of which, instead of glass, are fur-
nished with transparent shells. The spacious, airy
and shady rooms afford a pleasant retreat against
the heat. The architecture of the convents and
churches, which compose the chief edifices of the

THL PHILIpriNE ISLANDS.

69

town, is not bad. On account of the earthquakes
the walls are of an extraordinary thickness, and
secured by beams worked in. Some of these
churches possess pictures by good masters; several
altars are ornamented with wooden statues, which
are not without value as works of art, and are the
work of the Indians. But any thing donie by
Indians is not valued here. We employed the leyr
cursory hours we spent in Manilla chiefly in the con-
vents, where we hoped to obtain information on im-
portant subjects. In the seminaries of the Chinese
and Japanese missions we did not And one monk
who was conversant in the sciences and literature
of these people. The strangers learn at the place
of their destination itself the necessary languages;
and what you ask for in the pretty large libraries
of Manilla is precisely what they want, namely, the
department of the philology and literature of the
inland languages, and of the nations whom they
desire to convert to their faith by the missionaries
sent thither.

The inquisition appears to slumber now, but the
habit of caution still remains, and you may see
that people are uncomfortable, and dread it as a
spectre they do not see.

The Spaniards living here display great luxury.
The equipages are numerous and elegant. The
profusion of their dishes, the number of meals they
give on one day, almost causes satiety. The object
of every one is to amass riches, and a well-known

¥ 3

70

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

r iM

0

Spanish proverb, says, «♦! did not come to India
merely for a change of air."

More extended liberty will make the trade of
Manilla flourishing; and the restraints to which it
is subjected in Canton may cause the market be-
tween China and the rest of the world to be re-
moved hither. £very one trades, and the monks,
who possess the ready money, are willing to confide
it to speculators for certain profits, and for certain
enterprizes, in the risks of which they partake.
Sugar and indigo seem to be at present the princi-
pal articles which are sought for the £uropean
markets ; cotton and stuffs of native manufacture
are exported to Mexico. The Chinese buy Trepang
and birds' nests. The shell which, in many parts
of India, passes as coin, and which these islands
furnish, pearls, mother of pearl, amber, &c. can
scarcely be taken into the account. These islands
might furnish many more productions for trade
than they really do; the cofibe, which is of a par-
ticularly excellent quality, is, like the cocoa, culti-
vated only for home consumption. The cinnamon,
which is said to grow wild in many parts of the
forests, sago, &c. seem not yet to have become
sources of wealth.

When history shall have sealed the separation of
the two Americas fi'om the mother-country, the
Philippine islands will yet remain to the Spanish
crown, and, by a wiser administration, may com-
pensate her for the loss of an immense territory from

jt

THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

'|9-''

which she did not know how to derive the ad-
vantages which it offered.

The Indians are proprietors and free subjects,
and are treated as such. The forts, which are buiit
in every place on the coast against the Moors, are
in their power, and are garrisoned by them. The
privileges of their noble families have fallen into
desuetude, every district, every village chooses its
chief, and the choice is only confirmed. These
Governadorcillos, Capitanos, &c. who are addressed
by the Spaniards with the title of Don, possess all
the legitimate authority ; but the consideration, the
riches, and power, are all on the side of the monks.
The fathers, who govern the people, drain them in
various ways, and afler the church dues have been
paid and the priests kept the best for themselves,
the poor man parts with his last saving to buy
scapularies and images of saints.

The tribute which is paid to the king, is but a
reasonable burthen ; but the administration of to-
bacco, which is one of the principal necessaries of
life, without any distinction of age or sex, is very
oppressive. The fields, which the people formerly
cultivated for their own account, now lie fallow.
The Indian fears that every new production will
bring upon him a new tax. Only a small duty is
paid for the areca-palm, the nut^of which is chewed
with the betel-leaf and lime.

The food of the people is rice ; and, with this, all
the fruits with which nature has so lavishly endowed

F 1.

n

liKMAUKS AND OlMNIONS.

this fertile soil, and among wliicli we will only
mention the highly-extolleil mango*, two sorts of
bread-fruit trees, the common one of the South Sea
islands, and that peculiar to the Philippines, the
plantain and the cocoa.

The domestic animals originally in this archi-
pelago, were the hog, the goat, the dog, the cat ;
fowls, the goose, and according to Zuniga, also the
Caraboa or East Indian bufTalof, which must be
distinguished from that of the south of Europe, and
for which we refer to Marsden's account, t The
Caraboa is found in the mountains, either in a savage
state or run wild. The Spaniards first introduced
our kinds of oxen, the horse, and sheep.

The cock-fight, already mentioned by PigafetUi,
is the greatest diversion of the Indians. A good
%hting-cock is the pride and delight of his master,
who carries him about everv where in his arms.

j.i

■! ■::

* Zuniga doubts whether the mango was originally native, or
whether the Spaniards brought it from the coast of the con-
tinent. The same writer most unaccountably reckons the
sugar-cane among the plants brought here by the Spaniards.
Pigafctta expressly mentions the sugar-cane in Zebu. Dun
San Jagu de Echaparre has tried in vain to naturalize the
walnut and chesnut-tree. He sowed both kinds, but without
effect, several times on mountains of tlie interior, and on the
skirts of the forests.

t Pigafetta does not seem to have met with the caraboa^ in
the islands of this archipelago, which he visited. He mentions
only the buffalo in Borneo, with the elephant and horse. Tl)c
word Caraboa, Knrbare, is Muluyun.

\. Marbdcn't! Siunutra, p. 91. the titbt edition.

TIIK I'llIMPIMNi: ISLANDS.

73

He is tied in the dwelling-house by the loot, and
attended with the utmost care. Their love of
tighting, and the courage of these animals, is caused
by the abstemiousness to which they arc subjected.

The palm-wine, or rather brandy, is now, as it
was in the time of Pigafetta, the favourite beverage
of the Indians. We find the manner of procuring
it first described by Marco Polo. The flower spatha
of the cocoa-palm, before it opens, is tied together,
the point cut off, and a vessel of bamboo fastened
to it, which receives the juice as it issues out. This
juice is collected twice a-day, and when such a
source dries up, another spatha ripens on the same
tree to supply its place. From this juice, which,
when taken fresh, is very cooling, a different process
produces wine, vinegar, brandy, or treacle.* Many
cocoa-trees become evidently unfruitful by too
luxuriant growth; to avoid which, it is custom-
ary to make deep incisions in the trunk. But
when a tree has in this manner become useless, it
is felled, and the cabbage or unfolded leaves in the
middle of the crown afford a very pleasant dish.t

A particular kind of musa (^Pisang, Banana)^

* The sweet treacle of the Pelew islands is procured in this
manner, only from the cocoa-palm. Fermented or distilled
liquor seems not to have been introduced there.

f Wc have particularly observed, in Guahon, the unfruit-
fulness, or, according to the Spanish expression, running mad
{ioninr loco) of the cocoa-tree, and the remedies employed
against it.

REMARKS AND OriNIONS.

0,

which bears a small eatable fruit, is cultivated on
account of the flax, which \n procnred from its
trunk; . nd which seems to deserve the preference
to many others. The fibres are of the whole
length of the stalk (about eight feet), and of differ-
ent fineness, according to their exterior or interior
situation ; so that the same plant furnishes the flax
from which the excellent cables are made, which
are here, for the most part, used by the Spanish
marine, and from which the flne-striped stuff is
woven for the neat shirts, which are part of the
costume of these cleanly people.*

A palm«tree (Palma de Cabello negro) furnishes
a strong black bark, which is also used for manu-
facturing cords and cables. (The Chinese cables
braided of the prickly calamus, which many navi-
gators of the Great Ocean are obliged to use, is
said to be the worst and most unsafe.) This palm-
tree is cultivated and multiplied on account of its
great use.

Lastly, the bamboo and prickly calamus must be
mentioned as the most serviceable plants in this
hemisphere.

The Tagalese with his bolo (a knife, which he
constantly carries by his side, well ground, and
which is the only instrument he uses in all his

* The Carolinians also prq>are their stufb, resembling mats,
from the fibres of the musa, which according to Kadu's account,
is cut down for this purpose before it bears fruit. Do they also
possess tliu species above mentioned ?

m

TilK PHIUrriNE ISLANDS.

15

mechanical works, and which serves him at the
same time as a weapon), builds himself his house of
bamboo and prickly calamus, and provides it with
all the necessary utensils and vessels. The soil
affords him meat and drink, stuff for clothing,
tobacco, the areca-nut, and betel for his enjoyment.
A fighting-cock makes him happy. Nature is here
so bountiful ; man so contented ! He requires so
little for his sustenance and joys, and yet this little
he can not always procure !

ti

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j'Urf' ••■

THE MARIANA ISLANDS. — GUAHON.

rty

Wi

1 HE Mariana islands form a volcanic chain, lying
in a direction from north to south. The volcanoes
and the seat of the subterraneous tire are in the
north of the chain, where barren, burnt rocks arc
enumerated among the islands.

In Guahon, the most southern of them, and, at
the same time, the largest and most considerable,
only slight shocks of earthquakes are felt. Guahon
appears, from the N.E. side, a tolerably high level
land, the shores of which are rugged precipices.
The neighbourhood of the eminences and town
bear a different character, and have iofly hills and
beautiful vallies.

We found no other kind of rock but madre-
pores, calcareous spar, and iime-stone.

The island is well wooded ; the Flora appears to
be rich, and the vegetation luxuriant. The forests
descend on the sloping shores to the sea ; and dif-
ferent kinds oi' Rhizophora bathe, in covered places,
their foliage in the waves. Nothing can equal the
aromatic odour which wafted to us on our arrival
over the surf, when we were seeking an anchorage.
The orange-trees, like other fruit-trees of various
kinds, are grown wild ; memorials of a former more
flourishing (Miltivaticn. Many foreign plants have

Tin: MAIM AN A ISLANDS.

77

amply increased the Flora j for example, the prickly
Limonia tr(foliata, which cannot now be checked,
and the Indigq/cra tinctoria, which nobody nnder-
stands how to turn to advantage. The bread-fruit
tree, the cocoa, the plantain, are here in abund-
ance ; the Magnifera indica has been planted, but
has not yet become naturalized. We found only
the different kinds of plants which are common on
the continent of Asia, and the islands of the Great
Ocean ; for example, the Baringtonia speciosa, and
the Casuarina equisetffolia. We missed the follow-
ing kinds, growing in New Holland, the Proteacea?,
Epceridece, Myrtoidew^ and acacia, with simple
leaves. We met here with most of the plants
growing in Radack, of which we afterwards
missed several in Lu9on, for example, the Tacca
pinnatjfida, which, though naturalized and planted
in Cochin China, seems to be wanting in Manilla.
There are two different sorts of pandanus, and se-
veral fig-trees.

Besides bats, (we found the Vampyrus :) the only
original native quadruped is the rat, which is so
generally spread over all the islands of tli*^ South
Sea. The Spaniards have introduced, besides our
common domestic animals, of which, we did not
find any there, the guanaco from Peru, and a stag
from the Philippines ; the stag, during the time
of the Governor D. Thomas. Many of these ani-
mals have now run wild in several of the islands.
There arc some different kinds of land-birds, and,

78

UEMARKS AND OPINIONS.

among others, a hawk. We observed among the
amphibia, an iguan, and a large sea-turtle ; among
the zoophytes, some of the Holuthuria species,
which furnish, under the name of Trepang (Biche
de mer, balate), such an important article in the
trade with China.

The melancholy history of the Marianas is suffi-
ciently known in Europe. We refer to the His-
toire des Isles Marianes nouvellement convertieft a
la Religion Chr6tienne et de la Mort Glorieuse des
Premiers Missionaires qui y ont pr6ch^ la Foi, par
le P^re Charles Gobien, Paris, I7OO ; and to the
extract of it in Burney's Chronological History,
vol. iii. p. ^71*

> These islands were discovered by Magellan ;
they were called, by the natives, Laguas; the
Spaniards called them Las Islas de los Ladrones,
et las Velas Latinas ; and, lastly, Marianas. The
pious missionary, Don Diego Luis de San Vitores,
landed at Guahon in the year I667 \ he wished to
bring the people salvation, but he was followed by
soldiers and arras. Already, before the end of the
century, the work was finished, and this nation
had ceased to exist \ The Spaniards call it Paci-
Jicar,

** This considerable decrease comes from the sub-
jection to which, they were compelled by arms.
Fond of liberty, they could not bear a foreign
yoke ; and being unable to shake it off, they either
hung themselves, or deprived t^iemselves of life in
another manner. The women })uiposely procured

THE MARIANA ISLANDS.

70

abortion, and threw their own offspring into the
water, being convinced that, by this premature
death, which would deliver them from misery and
trouble, they conferred happiness and salvation
upon them. Thus they considered dependance
as the greatest and most intolerable wretchedness.
An epidemic disorder also contributed ; which, in
the beginning of the century, carried off almost all
that remained." — Fra. Juan de la Conception,
Historia de Philippinas, t. vii. p. 348. , ,.,>,■'

Don Pedro Murillo Velarde gives the same pic-
ture» with the same circumstances. We willingly
leave it to the Spaniards to speak for themselves.

The original population, according to Fra. Juan
de la Conception, was 40,000; according to Mu-
rillo Velarde, 44,000. It is said, in the Nouveau
Voyage k la Mer du Sud (Marion), that the popu-
lation formerly above 60,000, had decreased to
8 or 900. The remnant of the natives were collected
on the islands of Guahon and Saypan, in 1695;
and, on the sickness which broke out immediately
afler, on the former island alone. After the census,
without any date of the year, which Murillo Velarde
(published in Mamlla, 17^9f) communicates as
the latest account, there were 1738 inhabitants.
The population had increased, in the year 1783,
to about 3^31 ; and, in 1816« to 5389 souls. *

* It must net be forgotten, that, in former times, hundreds of
Philippine ishinders were brought to Gunhon, to increase the
mission; and that their descendants arc reckoned in tliose
ccniius.

m

URMARKS AND OPINIONS.

Si'

h

But tlie Christian descendants of tliose who
escaped the ruin of their race, and survived their
independence, have lost all tlie peculiarities of their
ancestoi's, all their arts, and, for the most part, for^
gotten their language.

-* Gobien appears to be the first who made the
ridiculous assertion, that the inhabitants of the
Mariana islands were first made acquainted with fire
by £uropeans. The historians of Manilla repeat
this circumstance, and Velarde applies to them the
Nulla Getis to to gens tniculentior orlfe ; and we
are astonished to see able authors, from whom a
sounder judgment might have been expected,
lightly led into unpardonable errors. *

This people belongs to the family who, related
by character, customs, and arts, and connected
by commerce and navigation, inhabit the islands

* Burney shows here, too, how the most solid learning is
with him in good hands, 1. c. p. 312. How could the inha-
bitants of the islands, on which many volcanoes burn, be
ignorant of fire ? Pigafctta enumerates, among their food, the
flesh of birds, without remarking that it was eaten raw. We
observe, en passant, that the sow, which, according to this voy-
age, Magellan had killed on his arrival at Huna-rura, in the
Philippine islands, has probably caused the unauthenticated asser-
tion, that Magellan had taken with him hogs from the Ladrones.
Of this, however, Ma88iiT>:liano Transilvano, as well as the Breve
Narratione di un Portughese, (Ramusio,) arc silent ; and Her-
rera, Historia de los Indios, tom. ii. cap. 3., does not mention it.
All the authorities agree, that on taking possession of them,
there were no four-footed animals. Heri .ra, 1. c, ascribes
to these islands, rice, (^ poco arroz,) evidently without any
reason.

C! '

THE MARIANA ISLANDS.

81

east of the Philippines, as far as the one hundred
and eightieth degree of longitude. This mild and
amiable people are not low in the scale of civiliz-
ation, and the inhabitants of the Marianas were
not inferior to their brethren.

They equalled, at least, in navigation, the most
skilful of the Carolinians.* The still existing works
of their art of building in Tinian and Saypan, prove
that they were in this respect superior to others,
and we have discovered something among their
antiquities, which seems to indicate the immense
advance they had made in civilization before all
the other islanders of the Great Ocean. We speak
of the invention of money. We have seen our-
selves the objects we describe ; and explain them
on the authority of our friend Don Luis de Torres,
the friend of the Indians, and who is perfectly
acquainted with their manners. *

On a coarse cord of cocoa-bast are stringed
pieces of tortoise-shell, of the form of a button,

* We must here mention an error in Dampier's account of
the Proas of the Marianas. The hoats of the Carolinians sail
in reality, only as has been described in Anson's Voyage, and
as is already mentioned by Pigafetta, with the out-rigger on
the lee-side, and the flat side of the boat under the lee. It
was likewise at\er Anson, that these boats were imitated in
England ; the rate of twe>.ty<four knots, which Dampier ascribes
to them, must be exaggerated, though they are light, quick,
and particularly more adapted than ours to sailing close to the
wind. Wc must further observe, which is understood of itseLC
that the rudder is always under the wind, which is noi always
observed with respect to the boats of Iladack in the drawings
nccompanyinfj; this work.

VOL. ill. ' O

82

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

i • ■ M

but as thin as paper, pressed to each other, and ex-
tremely polished by rubbing. The whole forms a
pliable roll or cylinder about the thickness of a
finger, and several feet in length.

These cords are said to have been current as a
means of commercial intercourse, and but a very
few chiefs had the right to manufacture and issue
them. ' »

Plates of tortoise-shell, of tha large sea-turtle, are
differently pierced in the middle with a large liole,
and on the broad thin edge with several smaller
holes, or they have only one hole in the middle.

Whoever, probably in swimming, had killed a
turtle, (in reality a very hazardous adventure,)
brought a plate of the mail to the chief, who, ac-
cording to the circumstances of the deed and the
assistance received in performing it, bored holes in
it i the fewer of them the greater was the value.
Such trophies then gave the owner a certain right to
exchange them, according to established customs,
for other property, and passed, in a certain manner,
as means of commerce and signs of value.

While the islanders of Guahon, says Crozet, ac-
quired new information by their civilization, they
had no improvement to make with respect to the
building of their boats, the art of doing which they
had inherited from their fathers, and perfectly
retained.*

* Nouvcau Voyage k la Mer du Sud, pur Marion elDucIcs-
meur, Uiidig^ sur les Plans ct Ics Journcnux dc M. Crozet,
p. 201-.

THE MARIA?fA ISLANDS.

83

Shall we credit this assertion as that of fonner
navigators? Jt is now quite altered since the time
of Anson (1742,) and Duclesmeur (I772.) The
present inhabitants no longer know the sea, are
no' mariners, no swimmers ; they have ceased to
build boats. They now scarcely hollow out, without
skill, the trunks of trees to fish within the breakers.
It is the inhabitants of the Carolinas, (Lamureck,
Ulea, &c.) who, since the pilot Luito from Lamu-
reck, in 1788, re-discovered Waghal (Guahon) for
his islands, come every year, since 1805, with a
trading fleet to Guahon, and provide the Spaniards
with the requisite boats, which they build on their
islands, in exchange for iron. It is also they who,
in their own boats, forward the messages from the
governor to Tinian and Saypan, and maintain the
otherwise difficult communication between the
Mariana islands.

There are here at present about ten or twelve
of these Carolinian boats, and nobody remembers
that similar ones were ever built at Guahon. Have
not foreign boats deceived former navigators ?
Carolinian boats have been cast here in all times,
and particularly, in the year 17()0 — 70, a boat from
Eap, for so far our accounts, founded on recollec-
tion, go back.

The present inhabitants of Guahon have been
transformed into Spaniards.* They live and dress

* We expressed a wish to be acquainted with the peculiar
luannerH, piuys, dances, «»!* the natives; and the tiovernor had

li

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II 'iff f

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84

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

like the Tagalese about Manilla, cultivate rice for
present use, prepare and drink the cocoa wine,
chew the betel, and smoke tobacco, indolently
enjoying, to an advanced age*, the fruits of the
forest, the produce of the fertile earth, and the
bounty of heaven. ^ '*'

And how should industry flourish ? The Gover-
nor of this distant part of the world receives his
office for only a short time as a sort of benefice.
He has the sole trade of the colony, that is, he re-
tains the considerable sums, in ready money t, which
Spain sends for salaries, and for that is bound to
give his inferior officers as little and as bad goods
as he pleases, t On the other hand, the Indian
pays no tribute, cultivates his own tobacco, and
has not to enrich the church by tithes.

The galleons from Acapulco now touch but
very seldom at Guahon, and, now and then only,
the Americans trading on the N. W. coast of
America. The present Governor cf the Marianas,
has a ship of his own, a handsome brig, with which

an opera ballet of Montezuma performed before us, in thea-
trical costumes, which have been, since old times, in the college,
in which were the Schools of the Jesuits.

* A robust old man, of eighty-six years four months old, lives
in Agana, with his equally aged wife, the only companion of his
youth and age ; they have about them one hundred and thirty-
five descendants, down to the sixth generation.

f About eighteen thousand piasters annually, a sum for which
we will, however, not vouch.

:j: Zuniga, p.C. t .^ . %> d/ ? 'r

THK MARIANA ISLANDS.

85

he keeps up an intercourse, and the necessary
trade with Manilla, and carries on, besides this,
the trade of the Biches de mer. He has begun
to encourage the Carolinians to bring him this
article, which is frequent on their islands, as
his pilot, an Englishman, has refused to fetch
them on account of the dangerous reefs.
This step may have a very great and beneficial
influence on the farther civilization of these
islanders.

The Jesuits, till the abolishment of their order,
remained in possession of the missions which
they had founded in the Marianas. They
consigned to the flames a part of their books
and papers when the Augustines came to suc-
ceed them, and then abandoned the field.
As thei'e has, for some time, been a want of
missionaries, the spiritual care of the Marianas
has been given to secular priests. The islands are
divided into two parishes ; that of Agana and that
of Rota, which latter includes a part of Guahon.
Both of them are properly under the bishop of
Zebu ; who, on account of the too great dis-
tance, leaves the administration of them to the
archbishop of Manilla. ' ' •<-•.•

The parish priests are young Tagalese from
Manilla ; for whom the Spanish language is suffi-
cient for their duty. They live in Agana, in the
building of the mission. ' ' ' '^

On the island of Rota there is now a fixed set-

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86

RKMARKS AND OPINIONS.

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tiemeiit, under the superintendance of an officer,
while, on the contrary, there are no habitations on
the island of Tinian : it is only visited for the
cultivation of rice. We were informed that there
were in Tinian, oxen, hogs, and goats ; in Saypan,
oxen and hogs ; and in Agrigan, hogs and goats,
in a wild state. ^^

Several Carolinians who have received baptism
have settled at Guahon j we found but a few of
them there at the time. Some had obtained per-
mission from the Governor to visit their friends in
their islands, and had gone there in the preceding
year, with the fleet from Lamureck.

It still remains to be explained why natives of
the Sardwich islands can be counted among the
inhabitants of Guahon on the annexed table.

The reader has found, in another part of this
voyage, a circumstantial account of the kidnapping
of the people from Easter Island, which was per-
petrated by the captain of an American ship, with
violence and bloodshed, for the purpose of founding
a settlement on the Galepagos islands.

The trade of this ocean makes it desirable for
the navigators who possess it, to have similar
settlements on the more eastern islands. Their
connection with the Sandwich islands renders the
stealing of people easy there j and the island of
Agrigan, one of the most northern of the Marianas,
seemed to be particularly adapted for such a set-
tlement, though it is mountainous, unfit for cul-

18

THE MARIANA ISLANDS.

87

tivation, and cannot even feed oxen ; and afibrds no
protected anchoring-place.

Captain Brown, with the ship Derby, from
Boston, was in Atooi in the year 1809 or 1810. On
this island, he was joined by Mr. Johnson, ship-
builder to the king, who had fallen into disgrace,
on account of an accident which had happened to
a ship. They weighed anchor during the night,
and carried off fifteen women who were on board.
They approached the island of Oneeheow. A boat
brought refreshments from shore. It was expected :
seven men who were in it were taken on board,
the boat was then hoisted up, and they directed
their course to Agrigan. They missed the island;
it was to the north : not to lose time in contending
against the wind, they attempted to land on a
southern island. They did so at Tinian, where they
remained in two parties. One party, consisting of
Johnson, with four men, and the Sandwich island-^
ers, were to build a boat to sail to Agrigan ; the
other party, composed of the second mate of the ship,
with three men, who had been discharged, intended
to convert a long-boat, which they had bought of
the captain, into a ship, for the purpose of carrying
on commercial speculations on these seas. The
Sandwich boat was left behind : both parties went
over to Saypan, which island afforded better tim-
ber, and there carried on their work. But the
Sandwich islanders remembered their liberty, ven-
geance, and their country. When the mate had

G 4

II .

m

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

finished his vessel, which they intended to make
use of to return home, they took advantage, when
the party was dispersed and unarmed, to fall upon
them ; the mate and one white were killed : war
raged.

I It was, in the mean time, made known in Gua-
hon, that there were strangers in Saypan and
Tinian ; the Governor, D. Alexandro Parreno,
sent thither, and it was in the course of these
bloody combats, that, in June, 1810, Johnson, with
four whites, two negroes, the seven Sandwich
islanders, and the fifteen women, were brought to
Guahon, where be himself still remains.

In May, 1815, by command of the captain-
general of the Philippines, D. Gose Gardoque, a
settlement on Agrigan was broken up, and nearly
forty men, of whom one was an American, three
Englishmen, and the rest Sandwich islanders,
brought to Guahon. .r ? v • *

It is well known, from authentic information,
that there is already a new settlement on Agri-
gan. In pursuance of the present order of the
captain-general, no obstacle is to be thrown in the
way of the settlement ; the settlers are only to ac-
knowledge the supremacy of Spain ; and a Spaniard
is to be sent as chief magistrate. Nobody has,
however, yet been sent. .. . , ,.

Guahon calls to mind the name of the Governor,
D.Thomas, which is known in Europe. ..r ',;' .

In the Nouveau Voyage a la ller du Sud he

THE MARIANA ISLANDS.

89

is mentioned with much praise ; and the Abbe
Raynal, in his manner, consecrates him to immor-
taHty. La Peyrouse, soon after, found him in the
hands of the inquisition, at Manilla, and attributes
it to the praises of the philosopher. We, however,
doubt, from better local knowledge, that the blame
of this injustice can be entirely attributed to the
French author. ' :

The inquisition, like chance, falls among the
rich and high, upon every one against whom in-
formation is brought ; and it is customary for the
women, in case of domestic dissensions, to arm
the holy tribunal in their cause. The property
of the person condemned falls to the tribunal;
and only the poor and obscure man enjoys se-
curity. ; i • !

1 Dl

''-' ■in

1

^m

1

ii

1

I'ii

I:'!

;;.' I'

i:i'

'^1

r •'«';

r\ mI

90

EXTRACT

FROM THE ARCHIVES OF SAN VGNACIO DE AGANA.

Number of

[ncrease.

Decrease.

In the year

Inhabitants.

1783 1
1784

Of tlie first of the Government

3231
3213

^.^

^

of D. Felipe de Cerain.
••• ••• •••

^

18

1785

•••

3292

72

■^

1786

... ••• •••

3301

9

"""

1787 1
1788

The first of the Government of

1 3344

43

__

D. Jose dc Arlequi y Lcoz.

••• ••• •••

3433

89

^"

1789

••• ••• •••

3501

68

"^

1790

••• «•• ***

3564

63

—

1791

••• ••• •••

3630

66

^—

1792

••• ••• •••

3680

50

—

1793

••• ••• •••

3584

—

96

The first of the Government of

1 3500

84

1795 i

D. Manuel Muro.

1796

••« ••• ***

3643

143

—

1797

••• ••• •••

3789

146

—

1798

«•• ••• •••

3935

146

—

1799

•f« ••• •••

4001

66

—

1800

»•■ ••* •••

4158

157

—

1801

••• ••• •••

4245

87

—

1802

••■ ••• •••

4249

4

^^

1803 1

The first of the Government of
D. Vincente Blanco.

\ 4303

54

—

1804

■•• ••• •••

4308

5

—

1805

••• ••• •••

4354

46

—

1806 ■

The first of the Government of

4442

88

^^

D. Alejandro Parreno.

1807

••» ••• ••«

4545

103

—

1808

••• ••• •••

4690

145

—

1809

•■• ••• ••*

4804

114

—

1810

ft* ••• •••

4845

41

—

1811

••• ••• •••

4958

113

—

1812 1

Tlie first of D. Jos4 de Medi-
nilla y Pineda.

V 4921

—

37

1813

••■ ••« •••

5049

128

—

1814

«•• ••■ •••

5232

183

—

1815

• •• «•• «■•

5315

83

^

1816

••• ••! •■•

5389

74

—

Incrcs

ise

2393

234

Decrease

234

Net I

ncrease ...

2158

San Ygn. de Agan.i, capital of the Mariana ibiands, tlie 27th of Nov. 1817.

14

O

i

u
H.S Wis

5111

tccs g

o's'si

WaOg

I'

in

1,

§

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a

3
C

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u

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•osBdJauj

ra a)

VI.

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■(■dfinod

I I

« '!<

«

I I

U^ ^ TJ<

I I 1

«3 V «

a

«0

W — -^ C) M C) 04

9

Mill I I I I I I

M

w

Mill 11 M I I

e>

I I I I I o,« , ,;o I

2

0«

00
00

to

o

«« 00 Tp IT} W

"T 0« -H -^ M

^* C^ ^O 'J* '^

I I M

u

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I.)

I I

I I

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§ 3 ^ *

!>1

IN

C^'!f'-i«lN •OM5M|n W

-< I I -^ I Tj< w t- I I N

I- i- 1-^ I

II I I I I II 11 I

I I M I M i M I

s

fills fJlil

1

= Jb

MIM l^ii* I 2

o .5

]'<■

ill

92

\ ■!

RESPECTING OUR KNOWLEDGE OF THE FIRST
PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN.

New Sources Kadu, Don Luis de Tmres Geographical
View, {with a charts)

According to the last discoveries of Saavedra,
in 1528 ; Villalobas, in 1542 ; Legaspi, in 1565,
and others. After the discovery of the Ca-
rolinas (perhaps Eap) by Lazeano, in 1686,
Paul Clain, the Jesuit, collected, in 1697, in
the Philippine islands, the first certain inform-
ation respecting the islands, which were after-
wards called the Carolinas, from natives of these
islands, who were driven by storms to Samal. We
also learn that those islanders frequently visited
these coasts, sometimes by accident and sometimes
by design.

Lettre du P. Paul Clain, Lettres Edifiantes,
torn. i. p. 112. Aux Jesuites de France, Charles
Gobien, torn. vi. with a chart, by Serrano, which
deserves no attention.

The zeal of the missions is awakened ; all the
monarchs of Europe are summoned to contribute
to spread the doctrines of Christianity. Several
ships are fitted out at Manilla, which kind fortune,
favouring the people, and to preserve their happi-
ness and independence, diverts from their object.
At last, Fathers Cortil and Duperon land in Son-

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN.

9fi

sorrel in 1710 *• the winds and currents soon
carry the ship out of sight ; the missionaries are
abandoned j and every further attempt to come to
their assistance is ineffectual.

Aux Jesuites de France, J. B. du Balde, torn. vi.
Relation en Forme de Journal, tom. vi. p. 75.
Lettre du P. Cazier, tom. xvi.

Father Jean Antoine Cantova collected, at Giia-
hon, in 1722, from the islanders of Ulea and Lamu.
reck wrecked there, a circumstantial account of the
Carolinas, and gives a chart of these islands, which
deserves the greatest regard ; his heart was in-
flamed with a desire to spread the Gospel there.

Lettre du Pere J. A. Cantova, tom. xviii. p. 188,
with a chart. . -

The historians of Manilla have carefully collected
these histories from the sources.

Historia de la Provincia de Philipinas de la Com-
pania de Jesus, par el P. Pedro Murillo Velarde,
Manilla, 17^9, tom. ii. Historia General de Phili-
pinas par Fr. Juan de ia Concepcion, tom. ix. c. 4.
p. 151., and tom. x. c. 9. p. 239.

We have borrowed the following from tiie
latter.

Cantova succeeds in being sent to the inhabit-
ants of the Carolinas. In 17^1, he is brought to
Mogemug, with Father Victor Uvaldec, from Gua-
hon, and a mission is founded on the island of
Falalep. Father Victor makes a voyage to the
Marianas ; wlien he returns, in 1733, with new

04

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

•.;■ *

assistance for the mission, he finds the place
where it stood ravaged and desolate. He now con-
tinues his tedious route to Manilla. " They learnt
from a prisoner whom they took, that ten days
after the departure of Father Victor, on the 9th of
July 1731, Father Cantova was called upon, on
pretence of baptizing a grown-up person. He
went thither with two soldiers, and found all in
arms. They alleged that he wanted to establish
a new law against the old one, and against their
customs J they pierced him with three lances, two
in the sides, and one in the heart ; they likewise
killed the two soldiers, and threw them into the
sea. They stript the Father, much astonished that
he was so white, and hid him under a small roof. *
They afterwards fell unexpectedly on those who
had remained at Falalep, who were only able to
discharge their small cannons ; killed four Indians,
and wounded others with the sword: but their
defence was in vain. All the Spaniards on the
island, who were fourteen in number, were mas-
sacred ; and only a young Tagalese, the sacrist of
the Father, and whom the chief of the island had
adopted for a son, was spared.

« This same prisoner informed them, that the
confidant of the Father, one of the name of Digal,
whom he had baptized at Guahon, was the princi-
pal leader of this revolt." i •

• So they bury their own dead. The Father was treated as
a prhice, the soldiers as common people.

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN.

or,

Thus ends the history of the missions in tlie
Carolinas.

We have since become acquainted with a single
group of these islands, by An Account of the Pe-
lew Islands, from the Journals and Communications
of Captain Henry Wilson, by George Keate, Esq.

Burney, in the first chapter of the fifth volume
of his Chronological History of Voyages, circum-
stantially relates, from the original authorities, what
relates to the Carolinas. At the death of Cantova,
he mentions a memorial of the Governor of the
Philippines, but of which we could not obtain a
sight. The fifth chapter contains a complete re-
presentation of our geographical knowledge of the
islands, which the Spaniards comprehend under
the name of las Carolinas,

We are induced to unite in one point of view,
and under the name of the Western, or First Pro-
vince of the Great Ocean, the Carolinas, to which
the more westerly groups are to be added, with the
islands lying more to the east, nearly under the
same latitude, as far as those which Krusenstern
calls after their principal discoverers, Gilbert's and
Marshal's islands, together with the Marianas, to
the north of the Carolinas.

Krusenstern, in his Contributions to Hydrogra-
phy, Leipzig, 1819, has collected the discoveries
made by later navigators in these seas under different
heads, in pages 94 to 121, and has treated them
with much learning. He has made great use of

V

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

I '1.

Hi

Ml

the Memorias por Don Joseph Espinosa y Tello.
Madrid, 1809.

Tuckey, (Maritime Geography and Statistics,
London, 1815,) by neglecting to point out the
sources from which he derived his determination
of doubtful points (the islands of Lamurca, Hogo-
len) has deprived his work of all authority.

Arrowsmith's Chart of the Pacific Ocean, with
the additions, to 1817, seems to us to be of greater
authority. '

As we are now going to communicate the in-
formation respecting the islanders and people of
this province in particular, derived from our own
experience, and the information we have collected,
this seems to be the place to give an account of
the new authorities which we have to adduce.

These are the communications of our friend and
companion Kadu, and those of D. Luis de Torres
of Guahon, which are a supplement to Cantova's
letter and chai:t. . . .

It was at the beginning of the year 1817, in the
extreme east of this province, in the group of Otdia
and Kawen, on the island-chain of Radack, that we
formed an acquaintance, and confirmed our friend-
ship, with the amiable people who inhabit it. When
we were afterwards sailing to the group of Aur, of
the same chain of islands, the natives came in their
boats to meet us. As soon as we had cast anchor,
and they came on board, a man stept out from
among them, who was distinguished from the others

FlRf?T PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 97

in many respects. He was "not regularly tattooed
like the Radackers, but wore indistinct figures of
fish and birds, singly and in rows, round the knee,
on the arms and on tlie shoulders. He was of a
more compact make, and of a lighter colour, and
had more curly hair than they. He addressed us
in a language that was quite different from that of
Radack, and sounded entirely foreign to us, and we
were equally unsuccessful in making him under-
stand the language of the Sandwich islands. He
made us comprehend that he intended to remain in
our ship, and to accompany us in all our future
voyages. His request was readily complied with.
From that hour he remained on board our ship, and
only once, at Aur, went on shore, with permission,
and remained with us, a faithful companion,
treated like the officers, beloved by every one, till
our return to Radack, when, suddenly changing
his intention, he resolved to settle there, to be-
come an inhabitant, and to be a distributor of our
gifts to our poor friends. Nobody could be more
thoroughly sensible of the humane object of our
mission than he was. ?. '.

Kadu, a native of the island-group of Ulea, to
the south of Guahon, not of noble birth, but a con-
fidant of his king, Toua, who employed him to carry
his commissions to the other islands, had on former
voyages become acquainted with the chain of is-
lands with which Ulea trades, from the Pelew is-
lands in the west to Setoan in the east. He was on

VOL. HI. H

fi

98

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

li

his last voyage from Ulea to Feis, with two of his
countrymen and a chief from Eap, who was return-
ing to his native place, when storms drove the boat
from her course. The mariners, if we may credit
their very uncertain reckoning, drifted about in the
open sea for eight months. Their scanty stock of
provisions lasted them tiiree months; for five months
they lived without fresh water, merely on the fish
they caught. To alleviate their thirst, Kadu dived
into the depth of the ocean, and brought up in a cocoa
shell cooler water, which, according to their opinion,
was likewise less salt. The north-east monsoon at
length blew them on the group of Aur, of the
Radack chain, where they fancied themselves west
of Ulea. Kadu had received information from an
old man in Eap of Radack and Ralick; some mari-
ners from Eap are said to have been once cast upon
Radack on the group of Aur, from whence they
found theii way back, by way of Nugor and Ulea,
to Eap. The names of Radack and Ralick were
also known to a native of Lamureck, whom we met
with at Guahon. Boats from Ulea and the sur-
rounding islands are frequently cast upon the
eastern island chains, and there are still living on
the group of Arno, of the Radack chain, five
natives of Lamureck, whom a similiar fate brought
there in the same manner.

The chiefs of Radack protected the strangers
against the rapacity of their people, whose avarice
was excited by the iron which they possessed.

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN.

99

The more noble sentiments are always found among
the chiefs.

The inhabitants of Ulea, who live in greater pros-
perity and have a more extensive trade than the
Radackers, are in many respects superior to them.
Kadu enjoyed a certain consideration at Radack.
When we visited these islands, he might have arri-
ved there about four years before. He had two
wives at Aur, and had a daughter by one of them,
who was just beginning to speak.

Our appearance caused terror and consternation
at Aur, where no information had yet been received
respecting us. The experienced Kadu, who was at
that time on a distant island of the group, was im-
mediately sent for, and they desired his advice how
they should treat the mighty strangers, whom they
were inclined to consider as wicked cannibals.

Kadu had learnt much of the Europeans without
ever having seen one of their ships. He encouraged
his friends, warned them against theft, and ac-
companied them to our ship with the firm resolution
to remain with us, hoping through us to see his
dear native country again, as an European ship had
once been at Ulea at a time when he was absent.

One of his countrymen, and companion in mis-
fortune, who was with him, tried in vain to dissuade
him from his purpose, and his other friends, equally
in vain, assailed him with anxious representations :
he was immoveable. Another companion of Kadu,
the chief of Eap, whom we met with in the suite of
king Lamary, at Udirick, conceived the same reso-

H 2

' I

I

100

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

■fi

lution, the same hope as our friend. He was a
weak venerable old man ; his request was not at-
tended to. It was difficult to persuade him to leave
the ship, where he persisted in remaining in tears,
in the composed attitude by which he meant to
make us sensible of his resolution. We represented
to him his age, and the fatigues of our voyage ; he
remained inflexible. We then told him that our
stock was taken in only for a certain number of
people : he proposed to us to leave our friend
Kadu here, and take him in his stead.

We cannot but commend the easy and becoming
manner in which Kadu conformed to our customs ;
it was difficult for him to understand the new situ-
ation in which he was placed. He, a man of low
rank, was suddenly placed among strangers so su-
perior in power and wealth, treated like one of their
officers, waited upon by the sailors in the same
manner as the captain. We will not conceal the
mistakes into which he sometimes fell, but which
he so quickly and easily corrected, that they me-
rited no severe reproof. When, shortly after he
was received among us, chiefs from Radack
came on board, he treated them with haughtiness,
and assumed a behaviour which became only them.
Some innocent raillery on their part was no more
than he deserved : it never occurred a second time.
He, at first, tried to imitate the walk and the man-
ners of the captain, but gave it up of himself. It
is not remarkable that he should, at first, consider

16

/'t

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 101

the sailors as slaves. He once ordered the waiter
to bring him a glass of water ; the latter took him
by the arm, led him to the water-butt, and gave
him the cup out of which the others drank. He
reflected, and studied our relations, and the spirit
of our manners, to which he soon learnt to conform,
and to adopt our behaviour at table, as well as in
general, j

Kadu learnt only by degrees the power of our
spirituous liquors j some of us imagined that he, at
the beginning, got the sailors to give him brandy.
Some time afler, when a sailor was punished, he was
told that it was because he had privately taken
some of the fire, (the name which he gave to
brandy.) He never after drank brandy ; and wine,
of which he was very fond, but with great moder-
ation. The sight of drunken men at Oonalashka
made him carefully keep a guard upon himself.

At the beginning he adjured the winds in our
favour, according to the custom of £ap ; we laugh-
ed, and he soon laughed himself at these adjur-
ations, which he afterwards only repeated in joke,
to amuse us.

Kadu had feeling, sense, and wit ; the more we
became acquainted with him, the more partial we
were to him. We found in his amiable character
only a certain indolence to contend with, which
counteracted our views ; he only liked either to
sing or sleep. ' ' • " ' '•

When we tried to draw from him infbrmatioM

H i}

1(M

v/.,rx.

REiMARKS AND OPINIONS.

1, /li

about the islands which he had visited, or respect-
ing which he had some knowledge, he merely an-
swered the questions which we put to him ; and
unwillingly the same question a second time, refer-
ring to what he had previously said. When, in the
course of conversation, new particulars were men-
tioned, which we reproached him for having con-
cealed, he coolly answered, "You did not ask me
that before ;'* and besides this, his memory was not
correct. His recollections revived by degrees, as
occasion called them forth, and it appeared to us
also, that the multitude and diversity of the objects
which drew his attention effaced earlier impres-
sions. The songs, in different languages, which
he sung, and which he learnt from the people
among whom he had resided, served him, as it
were, as a book, in which he sought explanation
or confirmation of his assertions.

Kadu kept his journal by moons, for which he
made a knot in a string ; th^s journal appeared to
us to be very irregularly kept, and we could not
understand his reckoning. He was not unapt at
learning, nor without curiosity. He seemed to
comprehend what we endeavoured to explain to
him, respecting the figure of the earth, and the art
of navigation ; but he had no perseverance, was
soon tired, and went back to his songs. He took
some trouble to learn writing, the secret of which
he comprehended, but was not able to succeed in
this difficult task. What we said to encouraare him,
perhaps, had a contrary effect. He interrupted his

■FIRST PROVINCE OP THE GREAT OCEAN. 103

attempts, took them up again, and, at last, re-
nounced them entirely. ' <

He appeared readily to understand what we
told him respecting the social institutions of Eu-
rope J of our manners, customs, and arts ; but
what most struck him, was the peaceable chival-
rous nature of our voyage, with which he connected
an intention to teach the new-discovered people
what might be good and useful to them. By this,
it is true, he chiefly understood what served for
food J but he was also sensible that our superiority
depended upon our greater knowledge in general $
and he assisted, to the utmost of his power, our
researches, where they would have appeared very
idle, even to many of the better informed among
ourselves.

When we arrived at Oonalashka, and he had
contemplated this sterile country, entirely desti-
tute of trees, he hastened to request us to plant
some cocoa-nuts, which we had still on board, and
to which he offered to add some belonging to him-
self, in suitable situations ; he urged us to make
the trial, representing the misery of the inhabit-
ants, and was with difficulty persuaded that it
would be quite useless. Nature, above all, attract-
ed his attention and curiosity. The oxen in Oo-
nalashka, which, for the first time, put him in
mind that he had seen them before on the Pelew
islands, constantly employed him, and he went
every day into the fields to look at them. On the
whole voyage nothing gave him more pleasure

H 4

\m

104

REMAIIKS AND OPINIONS.

ill

than the sight of the sea-lions and sea-bears on
St. George's island. *

r As Kadu, during the voyage, never neglected
carefully to collect pieces of iron, broken glass,
and every thing overlooked by us, which might be
valuable to his countrymen, he looked on the
shore at Oonalashka chiefly for stones, which
might serve for whet-stones. We only once saw
this mild man angry ; it was when, in the course
of our voyage, he looked to no purpose for these
stones in the place in the ship where he had put
them, and his complaint met with little attention ;
his sense of justice was wounded. wu.:

Kadu, in his poverty, was generous and grateful.
He served such of us as made him presents ; and
made use of the opportunity at Owhyee, by the
barter which he judiciously made with the little
articles which we had given him, to make presents
to us and the sailors who had obliged him, such as
might be agreeable to each. He retained nothing
for himself, except that with which he intended one
day to enrich or to please his countrymen : thus he
had left every thing he possessed to his friends at
Radack ; all but one treasure, a necklace, which

• n.i

* Wlien, after returning on board from the island of St.
George, we conversed about the sea-lions, in humourously imi-
tating the voice and gait of which Kada amused himself and us,
he was asked, with apparent seriousness, whether he had looked
at the nests and eggs, under the rocks on the sea shore. How-
ever littleversed he might be in the Natural History of Mammalia,
the question surprised him, and lie soon discovered that it was
a joke, which made him laugh heartily.

FIRST PRO\nNCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. lOS

he wore for a long time among us. One day,
smiling, with a tear in his eyes, he entrusted us
with tlie secret of this necklace : he fought at
Tabual (an island in the group Aur of the Radack
chain) in the ranks of his friends against the ene-
my, who came from Meduro and Arno ; there he
gained the advantage over his opponent, and was
about to pierce him as he lay at his feet, when bis
daughter rushed forward and seized his arm ; she
obtained of him her father's life. This girl pro-
mised him her love ; Kadu privately brought her
considerable presents to her island ; and he wore,
for her sake, this pledge of love which she had
given him on the field of battle. ■ = ' '

We must particularly mention two traita in
Kadu's character, his utter aversion to war, murder,
and his delicate modesty, which did him honour,
and which he never violated while among us.

Kadu abhorred bloodshed, though he was no
coward. He had on his breast scars of the wounds
which he had received in the war in defence of
Radack ; and as we were preparing our arms for
landing on the island of St. Lawrence, and he
was informed that this was not out of an hostile
intention, but for self-defence, in case of danger
among a people with whose sentiments we were
not acquainted, and with whom we merely wished
to deal to our mutual advantage, he demanded a
sword, with which he might defend us if attacked,
as he had not sufficiently practised firing with tlie
musket while at Oonalashka. ' r

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

-f 1^'

With respect to the other sex, Kadu maintained
a reserve worthy of praise. He remained at a dis-
tance from women who had other husbands ; he, in
fact, possessed great notions of propriety. What
he learnt on Owhyee disgusted him, and he spoke
freely of the want of good morals in the Pelew
islands. When drawn into the free conversation
of men, he always took part in such a manner as
to keep within the strict bounds of decorum. -'

The most lively sense, and the greatest talent
for wit, are found among those people who are the
least remote from nature, where the mildness of
the climate affords to man an easy and pleasant
life. Kadu was particularly witty, but knew how
to observe due limits in harmless pleasantry, and
ingeniously contrived to conciliate by little ser-
vices and presents those whom his raillery had
offended. ' ' .~h :t,>^,, l,,.

Our friend often repeated in the course of our
voyage, that he intended to remain with us to its
destination, and even should we discover his dear
Ulea, he would not quit us, but accompany us to
Europe, from which we might promise him a
passage home to Ulea, as the purposes of com-
merce regularly lead our ships to the Pelew
islands, whither the boats of Ulea regularly trade.
We ourselves were still unacquainted with the
other way by Guahon, but he cherished the wish,
and this might have been fulfilled at Guahon, to
find an opportunity in one of the islands known to
him of sending an account to Eap of the fate and
tlie present residence of the chief of that island.

\m

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 107

his companion in misfortune at Radack ; his idea
was, that his countrymen should build a ship, and
come there to fetch liim. He seriously occupied
himself with these ideas. .*?•; ki-'j -,;

We endeavoured to collect useful animals and
plants, layers, and seeds of various kinds, which
we wished to introduce into Radack. Kadu knew
very well that we intended to call there, and
remained firm to his determination ; we advised
him to inform himself of every thing that could be
useful at Radack, that he might instruct our
friends, and teach them what advantages they
might derive from our gifts, and how to manage
them. He entered into our plan it is true, but
the object was too remote, and thoughtlessness and
indolence caused him to reap in this abode of plea-
sure but little advantage, which he afterwards
blamed himself for having neglected.*

We arrived at Radack, and landed at Otdia
amidst the shouts of our few friends who had not
engaged in the war. Kadu was unwearied, and
assiduously assisted us in planting, sowing, and ma-
naging the animals, and in explaining and instruct-
ing the natives in every thing necessary. He was
then still firmly resolved to remain with us. - -»

When every thing was ready at Otdia, Kadu
went to Ormed, the island of the old chief Laer-
gass, to plant there likewise a garden. In thi^ ex-

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* Kadu soon learnt to converse with the people of Owhyee ;
and he himself made us remark the great similitude of several
words in their language, with the language of the islands in the
first province of the Great Ocean.

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REMARKS AND OPJNIONS.

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cursion, which was undertaken in boats belonging to
people of Radack, he was accompanied only by the
writer ofthis account. At Ormed the day was spent
in labour, and the evening in social conversation.
The women sung to iis the many songs which had
been composed on us during our absence, and in
which our names were commemorated. Kadu
told them of his travels, and blended lively fables
with his narration. He distributed among them
the presents which he had collected in the course
of his voyage for his friends. On the following
day, the last of our stay at Radack, immediately
when the boat which carried us back to the ship
was under sail, Kadu, whose lively serenity was
changed into gloom, declared that he was deter-
mined to remain at Otdia, and would go no farther
with the Rurick. He expressly commissioned his
friend to acquaint the captain with this new un-
alterable resolution, and declining all representa-
tions to the contrary, explained the reasons which
actuated him. He said he would remain at Otdia
to be the guardian of the animals and plants, which,
without him, would be neglected out of ignorance,
or be destroyed without any use to these unthink-
ing people. He would bring it about, that our gifts
might procure the needy inhabitants of Radack a
sufficiency of food, that they might no more be
obliged to kill their children, and renounce that
custom. He wished to bring about, that peace
might be established between the northern and
southern groups of Radack, that men might not

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 100

murtler one another. He intended, when the ani-
mals and plants had sufficiently multiplied, to build
a ship and go over to Ralick, and to communicate
to that country the benefit of our gifts. He would
ask from the captain, returning every thing he had
received from him, only a spade to dig the ground,
and some useful tools. He depended in his under-
taking on the assistance of his countryman and
companion in misfortune, for whom he would send
to Aur, where he then resided. He was also to
bring his daughter with him, who, as he now learnt,
was very melancholy since his absence, and would
take no rest. His wives had taken other husbands,
only his child was an object of his tenderest affec-
tion. ...;,;<:, ^\ii' ,■;;,! if( :a ,■■..; ;,^,: s i'^-i/i

Kadu now regretted the many useful things
which he had neglected to learn at Owhyee, and
asked our advice in these last moments on several
subjects, to which he paid the greatest attention.

The boat in which we performed this trip against
the wind, was a bad sailer ; the sun was already
sinking to the horizon when we came up to the
ship, and happily found the captain on board.
When Kadu's resolution was made known, he saw
himself instantly and unexpectedly in possession of
immense riches, such as are the objects of desire
to princes and people in this part of the world,
x/Ai]roy $s (ri$i}§ov. The affection was^ made manifest
which he enjoyed among us, and every one was
seen busy in adding out of his own stock, to the
heaps of iron, tools, and other useful things which

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UEMARKS AND OPINIONS.

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had been collected for him. Specimens of mats
and stuffs from Owhyee ; patterns of straw-hats,
&c., were not forgotten. r/ > ^ a

While Kadu was engaged in packing up his bed-
clothes and linen, he carefully separated his winter
clothes, and offered them as a present to the sailor
who had attended him, which the latter however
refused.

The sun had already set, when Kadu was
brought on shore with his treasures. Time would
not permit us to give him a written testimonial. Only
an inscription on a copper-plate, nailed to a cocoa-
tree at Otdia, records the name of the ship and the
date. ' ••'- "■• "'' ''■''' ' - ^■^-'^'^"'■-^ ^-'^ THu..

Kadu was then installed before the assembled
inhabitants of Otdia, as our man to whom our
animals and our plantations were confided, and
who besides was charged with our presents to La-
mari. It was promised, that we, who had been
already three times at Radack, should return after
some time, to look after him, and to demand an
account. As a confirmation of our promise, and
as a sign of our power, (for we had hitherto only
given signs of mildness and friendship,) we fired off
two cannons and a sky-rocket when we returned
late in the evening to our ship. * «v5>, ^„>fv

When we weighed anchor next morning, our
friend and companion was employed with the ani-
mals on the shore, and frequently cast his eyes
towards the departing vessel.

One of tlie songs which Kadu frequently sung

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. Ill

among us, celebrated, in the language of Ulea, the
names of Samuel Borman (he pronounced it More-
mal) and Luis. This song referred to the Euro-
pean ship which visited Ulea at the time when
Kadu was absent on his voyage. Waghal appeared
in Kadu's account a large country, where there
were oxen, iron, and other riches in abundance,
whither King Toua once made a voyage, and
from whence he brought three cannon-balls, (two-
pounders.) i vi): ifi .? i,: !!

As soon as we landed at Guahon, we recognized
the Waghal in this island, and the Luis of that
song came friendly to meet us in the person of Don
Luis de Torres, from whom we copy the following
account, while we recollect him with sincere love
and gratitude.

Luito *, a mariner of the islands to the south of
Guahon, whose name is still cheiished among his
countrymen, found again, in the year I788, in two
boats, the way to Waghal or Guahon, of which
a song appears to have preserved the remembrance
from ancient times. Encouraged by the success
of his first voyage, and the kind reception he met
with, he came again, in the year 1789> with four
boats, requesting the Governor to allow him to
come there annually. The four navigators, when
they had prepared themselves for their return, dis-
agreed about the rout they should steer ; they se-

* Compare Espinosa and Krusenstern's Contributions to
Hydrography, page 92,

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RKMARKS AND OPINIONS.

parated, and none of them ever returned to his
r»i»tive land, •••■-inv.?-*; ^-.r . ■■: ^ • . .a; - ■■■- -^ -■: ■■"-nr

After this, the intercourse that had been begun
was interrupted. ^ ' ' '^ ^'--^^

In the summer of the year 1804, the ship Maria,
from Boston, under Captain Samuel William Boll,
supercai-go Thomas Bormun, went from Guahon,
for the discovery of the Trepang in the Carolina
islands. Don Luis de Torres went as passenger
on board the Maria, in the iiope of seeing the
islanders again, to whom he was attached, to do
them good ; to learn from them why they had dis-
continued their visits to Guahon, and to prevail
on them to return. . ; -. ^v,' r^.J

On this voyage, the following points were geo-
graphically determined, according to the journal
of Don Luis :

A shoal of twenty-four fathoms in 8° 20' north
latitude, and 149" east longitude from Greenwich.

The desert island of Piguelao (D. L. de T.),
Bigell^ (K.), in 8° 6' north latitude, and 147° IT
east longitude, (wanting in Cantova's charts), o

The shoal Oraitilipu of twelve fathoms, in the
same latitude, half-way to the desert island of
Falliao (D. L. de T.), Fahueu (Cantova).

Fayo (K.), in 8° 5' north latitude, and 146" 45'
east longitude.

The small low group Farruelap (D. L. de T.),
Faroilep (Cantova), Fatoilep (K.), in 8° 3' north
latitude, 144° 30' east longitude j and, lastly, ,,

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 115

.The group of Guliai (D. L. de T.), Ulee (Can-
tova), UJea (K.), Ola (according to the pronun-
ciation of Radack,) in 7*' north latitude, and 144"
east longitude, into which group the Maria pene-
trated, and where she passed some time.

Don Luis de Torres took the opportunity when
lie was at Ulea, the language of which he under-
stood, and whose amiable inhabitants he highly-
valued, to obtain thorough, and authentic inform-
ation of the most able of the people, concerning
themselves, and the tribes related to them, with
whom they traded. He has drawn a chart of Ulea,
according to the most experienced navigator among
tile natives, attending to the courses which they
sail, with all the islands that were known to them, on
it : the coincidence of which, with the chart of Can-
tova, which was unknown to him, is very remarkable.
He has since lived at Guahon, in constant com-
munication with his friends there, and yearly seen
the skilful navigators who conduct the trading
fleet from Lamureck to Guahon. We regret
having had so little time to profit from his experi-
ence and information, which he so liberally opened
to us, and we expect a supplement far richer
than our harvest from the French expedition
under Captain Freycinet, who has promised a
longer stay at Guahon, and with the learned gen-
tlemen attending whose expedition we have con-
versed upon the subject at the Cape.

Don Luis de Torres learnt at Ulea that the not
returning of Luito, in the year I78J), had been

VOL. iir. I

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

laid to the charge of the Spaniards in Guahou.
The islanders, on being better informed, promised
to re-establish the interrupted trade; and they kept
their word. j '*> = ., , =

An Englishman, who was a passenger on board
the Maria, and was called by Don Luis, Juan,
settled at Ulea. Kadu had known him there, by
the name of Lisol ; he had taken a wife, by whom
he had one child. According to his account,
this Lisol, at a later time, when Kadu was absent,
was fetched away again by some ship ; but from
the information of Don Luis respecting him, he
died at Ulea.

Don Luis de Torres, in this voyage, had sought
to introduce oxen and hogs, and several useful
plants at Ulea. The natives in the sequel pur-
posely extirpated the oxen and hogs, because they
were not only useless, but hurtful to them. The
oxen bit off the young cocoa-trees, and the hogs
damaged the taro plantations. Of the plants, only
the ananas had thriven ; as it bore fruits, and the
people were much rejoiced at it, and as every one
wanted to possess the plant, it was transplanted
so frequently that it at last died.

Since the voyage of Don Luis, no new misfor-
tune has interrupted the communication. The
Carolinians coming to Guahon become yearly more
numerous. Their fleet of boats from Ulea and the
surrounding groups, consisting of Lamureck and
Setoan, collects at Lamureck. The voyage is
undertaken from thence In the month of April j

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN.

115

the distance to Fayo, the dcvsert island, where they
stop for some days, is reckoned to be two day's
voyage, and from Fayo to Guahon three days.
They return likewise by way of Fayo and Lamu-
reck. Their time to return is in May, at the
latest in June, before the west monsoon, of which
they are much afraid, sets in.

Kadu mentioned an undertaking of the chief
of Fatoilep, to sail directly from this group to
Waghal (Guahon), He wandered long about the
sea, and arrived at last at Moge-Mug, without
having found that island, and thence he returned
home.

The fleet once missed Guahon, and was driven
under the lee of that island. The seamen dis-
covered their error in time ; and, afler contending
with the wind, reached their destination, only with
some delay. ' ' -^ ■ * -

This long voyage was once undertaken in a
very small boat, which carried only three men.
It sailed better than the two large vessels that ac-
companied it. The seaman, Olopol, of Setoan,
brought it as a present to Don Luis. Olopol died
at Agana, and we ourselves have seen the boat.

Toua*, the king of Ulea, came himself to Guahon,
in the year I8O7. ■ •• -

It was also in this year, or in the following,
that a boat, from the eastern island of Tuch was

* Don Luis de Torres calls him Roua, as he calls the island
Rug, which we, according to Kadu, write Tuch.

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

driven to Guahoii. There were fifteen men on
board; the pilot's name was Kulingan. The
strangers were well received; but a procession,
which took place during their stay, accompanied
with salutes of artillery, spread fear and terror
among tbem. They hid themselves in the wood ;
and in the same night, without any provisions,
went again to sea. Fortunately, they met, in their
flight, the fleet coming from Lamureck, which
supplied them with provisions, and gave them the
necessary directions for their voyage home.
. The fleet, in 1814, consisted of 18 sail.

The CaroUnians procure, at Guahon, iron, glass-
beads, cloths, &c., in exchange for boats, shells *,
and curiosities: the trepang may become an im-
portant branch of commerce. They are received
in the most hospitable manner by the natives, dur-
ing their stay at Guahon.

Don Luis de Torres has undertaken, with
pleasure, to inform Kadu's friends at Ulea of his
misfortunes, and his present abode ; and to send
them our presents in his name.

Don Luis de Torres has given us farther inform-
ation of a large and high island, of an unknown
name, which was seen by the Brigantine San
Antonio de Manilla, Captain Manuel Dublon, on
her voyage from Manilla to Guahon, on the 10th of

L' ' *■ ( , . * .

* These shells, among which are some of the most beautiful
kind, are sent by the Governor of Guahon to Manilla ; from
which place they are procured for our museums and collec-
tions.

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 117

December, 1814, in 7° 20' north latitude, 151" 55'
east longitude. There is a very high mountain on it.

We had heard Kadu sing a song of Feis, which
related to a ship, with which the islanders had
traded in sight of their island, though she did not
stop there. It celebrated the names of Jose Maria,
and Salvador. We learned at Guahon, that in the
year 1808 or 1809, the Modesto of Manilla, Cap-
tain Jose Maria Fernandez, which looked for the
Pelew islands, to collect trepang, had missed them,
and come in sight of Feis. When the Modesto
afterwards reached the Pelew islands, she met there
one of the natives of Feis, with whom she had
traded while at sea ; to continue the commerce he
had hastened on before the ship. Don Jose de
Medinilla y Pinedo, governor of the Mariana
islands, was on board the Modesto. We tried, at
Manilla, but in vain, to obtain further particulars
respecting this voyage.

We relate here an event, after our friend Kadu,
which may excite some interest. Six white men,
who wore clothes, once landed at Eap, in a small
boat fastened together with wooden pegs, with-
out any iron. This boat was, in other respects,
made entirely in the European manner. The
strangers were hospitably received. One of them,
named Boele, was adopted as a son, by Laman,
the chief of the territory of Kattepar. Boele
remained on the island, when the five others, after
a stay of a few months, went again to sea. Kadu,

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REiMARKS AND OPINIONS.

who shortly after came to Eap, became acquainted
with this Boele. He went naked on the island,
and was tattooed on the thighs.

The island-chain of Radack will first occupy
our attention. With what we know from our own
experience, we shall illustrate Kadu's account, in
whose accuracy we were confirmed in the last visit
we paid our friends. With Radack, are naturally
connected, . ■

1. The island-chain of Ralick, which is situated
a little to the west, and is perfectly well known to
the Radackers ;

2. The islands of Repith Urur ;

3. Bogha, of which they were informed by people
drawn out of their course j and

4. The islands discovered by the Cornwallis fri^
gate, in the year 1 809 ; which Arrowsmith is in-
clined to consider as the Gasparrico of ancient
charts. A desert group, lying north of Radack,
which we found again. ^ :'

• The island-chains of Radack and Ralick lie in
the part of the sea occupied by Marshall's islands,
(Lord Mulgrave*s range, and the adjoining islands.)
Captain Marshall in the Scarborough, and Cap^
tain Gilbert in the Charlotte, saw these same
Islands, in 1788. The former, whom Krusenstern
follows, gives them (Voyage of Governor Phillip,
London, 1790, p. 218, &c.) a more western situ-
ation than the latter, whose original charts and
journals Arrowsmith possesses, unu follows, Nu

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 119

V

scientific geographical work can be undertaken oh
the islands of these seas, without consulting these
documents. On account of the differing deter-
minations of the two captains, and the different names
which each applies to his islands, it is a difficult task
to compare their accounts with each other, and with
the discoveries of other navigators j and we leave
it to more able geographers. They must decide
which of these islands, that are here marked by the
name given them by the natives, (these are per-
manent,) were formerly known to our navigators j
and which of the islands seen by them, though in
the neighbourhood of Radack, have, notwithstand-
ing, remained unknown to the Radackers. The
navigator who is content to name, at his own dis-
cretion, the islands he discovers, and whose situ-
ation he determines, inscribes his name on the sand.
He who learns and preserves the true names of
his discoveries, ensures the stability of his work,
and really assists to erect the edifice, while the
others only furnish the stones. - ' ' ' ' ' "

We did not find among the people of Radack
any knowledge of Gilbert's islands ; that is, of the
islands south of Radack ; unless which, for many
reasons, (the course of the winds, &c.) appears to
us doubtful, we should place Repith Urur there.

From Marshall's reports of the south and nortli
chain of the islands discovered by him, they appear
to us to be similar in all respects, and to be inhab-
•■-■•" " ■• ^ I 4 '" ' < ■ ■■■" : ■'

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

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ited by the same people, only that the southern
islands are more fertile and populous than the
northern, as we ourselves found it to be the case
at Radack ; and have every reason to believe it to
be the same in all the archipelagos of these seas. «.
f; Los Pintados and Los Buenos Jardines of Alvaro
de Saavedra, 1529, are under the latitude 7* to 8°
or 10° north, seeming to lie far to the east of Ra-
dack. The description of these islands, which have
vanished from our charts, and that of their inhabit-
ants, call upon us to mention them here.
- We have ourselves observed nature at Ra-
dack, and have lived with its inhabitants. Being
conversant with this nature, and with the people,
the intelligence which we have to give about the
Carolina islands will appear more clear.

The Carolina islands will be the subject of
another chapter. We shall endeavour, with the aid
of our friends Kadu, and Don Luis de Torres, to
overlook from Ulea, all the surrounding islands, and
attend an amiable people, versed only in the arts
of peace, on their courageous voyages. We shall
carefully compare our information with that of the
Jesuits, and particularly with the estimable reports
of Cantova.

We only enumerate these islands, and make use
of the geographical remarks which offer themselves
to us. This part of our work, like the chart of
Tupaya, and the information collected by Quiros
from the natives of Taumaco and other islands,

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FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 121

may contain hints not quite unworthy of the notice
of future navigators.

The charts of Cantova and Don Luis de Torres
which we have added, will serve to illustrate our
information. The modern discoveries which we
have quoted are to be referred to in the original,
or in the above mentioned hydrographical works,
and particularly on the charts of Arrowsmith and
Krusenstern.

Ulea (K.), Ola, according to the pronounciation
of Radack, Ulee (C), Guliai (T.), and according to
him in 7° north latitude, and 144° east longitude.
The thirteen islands mentioned by Wilson, in the
Duff, in 1797, 7° 1& north latitude, and 144" 30'
east longitude. (?) f -» Ji»j.i« -i.^iu ;

A principal group of low islands. The names of
eleven islands are marked on Cantova's original
chart; Kadu has named four-and-twenty to us, and
passed over the smaller uninhabited ones. Namely,

According to Kadu. According to Cantova, ^

Ulea,

Ulee.

Raur, 1 , J -

Raur.

Pelliau, f r.v/ j.fi .•

Peliao.

Marion, [ ' u-'t » .

Mariaon.

Thageililp, «? ? ; [

Tajaulep.

Engeligarail, - t;

Algrail.

Tarreman, »■ n

Termet.

Falalis, -i.-* ;■-. -^.juIm-

Falalis.

Futalis, ^*. < ^^ .^*,i=,..^!, ■

Faralies.

Liisaga, ;; i^; ' <

Otagu.

Falelegala,

Falelmelo.

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

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According to Kadu, i :': • v ^.r ■

Falelemoriet. • »

i. Faleelepalap.

Faloetik. • ' ■

LoUipellich.
Woesafo.
Lugalop. v^ '
.v.: . Jesany. Ji . ^

Seliep.
. , Piigel.

Tabogap.

; Tarrematt, ... ' *" ? :vf'

i . . Piel, and
, ; Ulimire, the aboile of Toua, the chief of the
island-chain, and native place of Kadu.

Fatoilep (K.), Farroilep (C), Farruelap (T.),
and according to him in 8° 30' north latitude,
144° 30' east longitude. According to Cantova,
it was seen, in 1696, by Juan Rodriguez, between
10° and 11° north latitude. A small and low group,
consisting of three islands.

The bank of St. Rosa, neir the south coast of
Guahon, whose existence was particularly proved
by Dampier, in the Cignet, in 1686, and again by
Juan Rodriguez, in 1696, is not to be found any
more; and in 1804 the Maria sailed over the place
where it is marked on the chart.

Uetasich is, according to Kadu, a shoal to the
north of Ulea, which may serve mariners coming
from Feis as a mark not to mitss Ulea. But Ue-

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 123

tasich is not to be seen if you take the right
course. The water is of a white colour. The sea
has no surfl ; ^,:i »■. ^ > / ; i.-^n (Hh^^

Euriipiigk (K.), Eurrupuc (C), Aurupig (T.),
an inconsiderable low group of three islands, two
of which are extremely small, at no great distance
from Ulea. According to Kadu andCantova they lie
to the west, but according to Torres, to the south.

We think that the two islands, 1791, on Arrow-
smith's chart, ought to be mentioned here, though
they are very remote. Compare Sorol.

The four following form a chain, whiqh accord-
ing to C. lies to the east of Ulea, according to T.
towards east south east, and according to K.
towards sunrise, - '' "

Iviligk (K,), Ifelue (C), Ifelug (T.), (the
thirteen islands, or the two low islands of Wilson?)
Low group of islands,

Elath (K.), Elato (C), Elat (T.), (the two low
islands of Wilson?) A small and low group, of
which only the island afler which it is named is
considerable. There are four or five smaller ones.

Lamureck (K.), Lamurrec (C), Mugnak (T.),
Lamursee, in Krusenstern, likewise frequently
called Lamurca, Lamuirec* or Falu, by Gobien, and
also in Serrano's chart. (Swede's islands ; the six
islands of Wilson ?)

Luyto (Krusenstern) makes the islands to be
thirteen in number. A principal group of low
islands 5 their names are Puc, Falait, (Falu, Ser-

%■

Ij

ir,

U4>

REMARKS AND OPINIONS. *'*

ratio ?) Toas, and Uleur, given on Cantova's chart,
must relate to single islands of the group, and per-
haps also Glutei, though they are laid down near
Elato.

The Banc de Falipy, of Cantova, is mentioned
neither by Kadu, nor by Don Luis de Torres.
. Setoan (K.), Seteoel (C), Satahual (T.) (Tuck-
er*s Island : Wilson, in 7° 22' north latitude, 146°
48' east longitude ?) A large low island, lying by
itself.

Ollimirau (K.), Olimarau (C.) A small low
group, wanting on the chart of Don Luis de
Torres. Kadu places the islands to the east of
Setoan ; Cantova, to the N.W. of Lamureck, half
way to Fayo, a situation which must be incor-
rect, as it is never touched at on the voyage from
Lamureck to Fayo and Guahon ; and if our notion of
Wilson's islands is correct, there is no room be-
tween Lamureck and the northern desert island
for another group. We should look for Ollimirau
to the east or north-east of Setoan.

Fayo (K.), Faheu (C), Fallao (T.), and, accord-
ing to him, in latitude S'' 5' north, and 146° 45'
east longitude.* An uninhabited island, without
any fruit-trees or sweet water, which only collects

* Fayo, according to that, would lie 43' north, and 3' west
of Tucker's Island ; and if the Swede's islands are Lamureck, the
voj'age from this group by Fayo to Guahon in two or three days
must have been incorrectly divided, as you ought to reach Fayo
in one day. We observed that the voyage from Fayo to Gua-
hon, a distance of about seven degrees, or 360 miles, is per-
formed in three days, or seventy -two hours, at the rate of five
knots ; that is, five miles an hour

FIRST PROVINCE OF THK GREAT OCEAK.

iQr,

in pits after the rain. Fatoilep, Ulea, Iviligk,
Elath, Lamiireck and Ollimirau, are visited for
turtle and bird-catching.

Bigelle (K.), Piguelao (T.), and according to
him in latitude 8° 6' north, 147° 17' east longitude,
wanting in Cantovi*s chart. A similar island,
likewise visited on account of the chase, from £lath,
Lamureck, and Ollimirau.

Oraitilipu (T.), a shoal of twelve fathoms, be-
tween the two above-mentioned islands, in latitude
8° 6' north. i-., f,^,- . ^ 'h-'' r • .

Don Luis de Torres has determined another
shoal of twenty-four fathoms, in 8" 20' north lati-
tude, 149** east longitude. -■■'■'

The islands hitherto mentioned form the second
province of Cantova, which in his time was divided
between the two states of Ulea and Lamureck, but
now acknowledges the Tamon, or Prince of Ulea,
as the sole master. This Tamon, of the name of
Toua, is, besides, acknowledged in several of the
more easterly islands, which Cantova reckons in
his first province ; and especially, according to Ka-
du, in Saugk, Buluath, and the high land of Tuch.
According to Don Luis de Torres, when Toua
dies, these islands will not fall to his successor in
Ulea, and this maritime state will be divided.

The same language is spoken in all the islands
of the second province of Cantova.

The intelligence respecting the eastern islands,
which form Cantova's first province, Cittac, under

i

r^t

1-S

126

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

im

■ »

!.^

^m*

the Prince of Torres or Hogoleu, are the most un-
certain and dubious, and it is very difficult to throw
light on their geography. -: ?iii ; na '^'-v

Kadu was never in theso islands himself; he
makes five groups, or islands, follow, always in a
direction from Ulea, according to the rising sun, or
rather inclining to the south.

Saugk (K.), Sog (T.), Scheug, or, according to
the situation, Shong (C.)? A low group.

Buluaih (K.), Puluot (C), Poloat (T.) A reef,
of which only the island of this name is inhabited.
8augk and Buluath still speak the language of Ulea.

Tuch (K.), Rug (T.) Shoug, or, according to
the situation, Scheug (C.) ? This is the only high
land which Kadu*s information mentions to the
east. Tuch has very high mountains, and, accord*
ing to Don Luis de Torres, it has a peak. The
inhabitants live in constant war with those in the
distant islands, (Giep and Vageval). Their lan-
guage deviates much from that of Ulea ; Don Luis
de Torres calls it a separate one. Kadu had had
dealings with the inhabitants of Tuch and Buluath,
at Ulea, where they brought tribute, and traded.

Savonnemusoch, and Nugor, are rich and low
groups of islands, which Kadu places at a great
distance in the same point of the compass ; each
is said to speak a different language. In the name
Nugor we may recognize Magor (T.), Magur (C.)

Toroa, and Fanope, are, according to Kadu,
low groups of islands, which are very well known

18

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GRE.lT OCEAN.

127

to the inhabitants of Biiluath, as many ships from
those shores are frequently wrecked there. Seve-
ral of these strangers, after a short stay at Bulii-
ath, once tried to find their way back to their
home. After wandering about for a month, they
again landed at Buluath. The language of Ulea
is spoken in Toroa and Fanope-

One of the songs of these islanders, which Kadu
learnt at Ulea, from the inhabitants of Buluath,
preserves the knowledge of " ^

Malilogotot, a very remote and low group of
islands, with which they have probably been made
acquainted by a boat wrecked from thence. A
different language is spoken there, and the inhabit-
ants are said to eat human flesh. (We are re-
minded of the Repith Urur of the Radackers.)

Wuguietsagerar is a dangerous reef, well
known by the inhabitants of Buluath, after which
they seem to direct themselves in their voy-
ages. It is said to be at a considerable distance
from this island. It forms a crescent, in which
it is very dangerous to get entangled. The en-
trance must be avoided, and the whole reef left on
one side.

Giep, Cuop (C.?), and ^ ^

Vageval, are low groups of islands, at a great
distance from Tuch, and at war with that island.
Kadu has no further knowledge respecting them.

Lomuil, and ' ''f ' "^ '

Pullop are the names of islands which he re-

■I?

!*

I

128

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

iIh

:t

f >

members to have heard of at Ulea. The chart of
Don Luis de Torres coincides with that of Can-
tova, in the general arrangement of the islands of
this eastern province, as well as in most of their
names. When he first drew it he forgot the prin-
cipal island Torres, or Hogoleu (C), which is
marked on Serrano's chart under the name of
Torres, and vs^hich is not mentioned in Kadu's
information. But after he had inserted in it the
twenty-nine islands of Monteverde, (in S. Rafael,
1806), according to their stated latitude and longi-
tude, where, in the circle that the province of
Cittac forms, they filled pretty nearly the place
which Hogoleu occupies in Cantova, the expe-
rienced seaman, Olopol, from Setoan, gave these
islands the name of Lugulus, in which we must
perhaps recognize Cantova's Hogoleu.

Cantova has nineteen islands ; Don Luis only
sixteen, with Lugulus. He wants those which in
Cantova close the circle in the south-east, and are
five in number, and in the other parts of the circle
he has three new ones for one that is wanting:
namely,— , ,. ; ;

According to D. Luis
According to Cantova. ;. de Torres,

L Torres, or Hogo- ^^ J L Lugulus. ,
.li ,, leu, in the east, i '

. • ; and from thence
: following the
■■:'. ! circle to the ,. ;
north.

'v-^, Ui ,] .'U'iitl

I:

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 129

According to Cantova, ^y

'jilii.

.10

'}n i.

ui,

I ..

Q, Etel.

3. Ruac (4. T.)

4. Pis (2. T.)

5. Lamoil(7. T.);j

6. Falatu (6. T.)

7.Ulatu(8.T.)H L.u ,

8. Magur (9. T.) ,, ^■

9. Uloul(il.T.)

10. PuUep (12. T.)

11. Puluot, or Legnis-

chel, to the west,
nearest to Se-
toan (14. T.)

12. Temetem (13. T.)

13. Schoug (16. T.)

14. Scheug (15. T.)

15. Pata. ;

16. Peule.

17. Foup.

18. Capeugeug.

*u ii-^m if

■ ii^'s 4.

.>J

According to D. Luis

de Torres, ^

2. Pis (4. C.)

d. Lemo.

4. Ruac (3. C.)

5. Marilo. r

6. Felalu (6. C.) v.,.

7. Namuhil (5. C.) ^

8. Fallao (7. C.)?

9. Mayor (8. C).

10. Pisaras.

11. Olol, to the west, next
, . Setoan(9. C.) , ,

M

;i

•y t - U.

iJ

« • -

'I >

12. Pollap (10. C.) ..

13. Temetem (12. C.)

14. Poloat(ll.C.) _ ;

15. Sog (14. C.) ^ ^ ^

16. Rug, in the south
where the circle

; < 3 •. ■

.' i.

, remams open.

19. Cuop.

The comparative view which the annexed charts .
afford, renders a further description unnecessary.

Cantova gives his province Cittac a different
language, distinguished from that of Ulea. On
the other hand, Kadu's testimony is of more
weight, at least as far as respects Buluath and
Tuch.

VOL. III. K

! M

ISO

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

(■i*i

■v\

■H

Cantova mentions, in a vague manner, a great
number of islands far to the east of Cittac, of
which he only names, and particularly distinguishes
Falupet (Fanop^, K. ?) The shark is said to be
worshipped there. Navigators of these islands, who
have been wrecked upon the more westerly ones,
have made them known.

We now return to Ulea, and from thence, num.
ber the islands of the western chain. "* •

Feis (K. and C), Veir, according to the pro-
nunciation of Radack, Fais (T.) and Pais, accord-
ing to the chart of Serrano, seen by the Nassau
fleet in 1625. It lies to the north-west of Ulea,
and the voyage to it appears to be one of the most
dangerous, requiring, according to Kadu*s testi-
mony, (to whom, however, in this instance, we do
not give the most implicit credit,) fourteen days'
time. Feis, though it is of the same formation as
the other low islands, is higher, and by far more
fruitful. Three islands, or territories, are called
Lit6t6, Soso, and Vaneo. The chief of Litoto is
independent prince of Feis.

Mogemug (K.), Mogmog (T.), Egoi, or Lumu-
lulutu (C.) (He gives the first name to the
western islands of the group or leeward islands,
and the others to the eastern or windward islands.)
Los Garbanzos, on his improved chart, and called
by F, Juan de la Conception, Uiithi in Eap, disco-
vered by Bernard de Fgui in I7W, tlie group to

FIRST PROVINCE OP THE GREAT OCEAN. ISl

Tvhich Cafitova went as missionary, and where he
died. A main group of low islands, and seemingly
larger than Ulea. It lies between Feis and £ap,
at a little distance from both, and obeys its own

. r?riii«t?^

j-riij-tfitn

chief.

Cantova has given the names of twenty-three
islands : Kadu mentions twenty-six, among which
the most of Cantova's may be recognized i namely,

According to Cantova. According to Kadu,

1

Mogemug.

Thagaleu.

Essor.

Talalep. -^ i"^

Elap. 'i'f i'ljjii oiit

Mogmog.
Sagaleu.
Oiescur. '^' ^
5 Falalep.

i!h1 : Guielop. >** ^'' '

' -' Gaur. arUii iji^i i;iM Cor. '''i^ '\o fyi^i'u--^

Lusiep. '^'^/nb -/'tiif Lussiep. <\^ irdo'-y'-
'' Alabul. ' /•,(•'!■■ 'Mi^V ./i;<f-^i

Pugelup. '^ ni !*>.({ Pugulug. M tH \o
!'>: ?• Pig. ,.. , .y'^r ;ii .H Pig. '; d r: i'j-»

> ;^' Faleimel. ' hvr. ; u} Faleiman. ;> <'n ^iif

Faitahun. loiol) j n Teitawal. v>f> ,5,,( C)

Laddo. <i t'i-jiiii J ^tMu- i m i;«» )Vfii*U l;id

• ;.;« Fantarai. <>» ^<«'5 .* Fasarai. .Lsniir
''•^' Caire. *l *«;im.;:i<; 'v-tf^H *■^^^' '»!it j-'iuif;^

Pigileilet. '^<f ivj/* f?i Pigeleili* flo f'^jbun
•'?'»M' Soin. • 5«i'><fi') vjtvf rif'l .f;'».'''t.j«l '^■i^j^ut

• '.'•'" Troilem.'" ''i I^hh?:? :•' >- '-" '^^ "u/ .J^-MTuh-j

Lam. )ifn»j<< / Lam. tU;<?-?vtj#{>l

iH

it- i

i, J

132

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

m

:a

p

According to Cantova,

J ;^i Petasaras. -. ;,
Medencang.
Marurul.

According to Kadu.
Elell.

; k

Vl •

.1-

li-

'H'.Ti iO

':)<■'•■

'nwi'

■''■'■•W

/.J

-I i

Malauli. .'. ^

,;. Tongrosz, rn. .,
Malimat. ; ^I • l.<.
Tarembag. /,ff •
Song.

Elipig. i ovOi V
Eo.^... ^,^fi
Eoo.

,';:-r, 'i Lasz. 'I.-' -.I'l

Feis and Mogemug, according to Cantova, form
the third province, and are said to have a lan-
guage of their own. But the language of Ulea is
spoken there with very little deviation. • *;

Eap (K.), Yap (C), Yapa (T.), Ala-cap, Account
of the Pelew Islands, p. 21 iv. the note. It was
seen by the Nassau fleet, in 16^5 ; by Funnel and
his companions, in 1705 ; and by the Exeter, in
1793, according to whose determination it is now
laid down on the chart. A high and considerable
island, which, however, has no very high moun-
tains like the Pelew islands. It was formerly
under one chief, and enjoyed peace ; but now war
rages between the petty chiefs of the several ter-
ritories, of which Kadu named forty-six ; namely,
Kattepar, Sigel, Sumop, Samuel, Sitol, Suomen,
Palao, Runnu, Girrigai, Athebue, Tugor, Urang,

15

I'IRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 13^

Maloai, Rumu, Gilifith, Inif, Ugal, Umalai,
Sawuith, Magetagi, Elauth, Toauwai, Ngari,
Gurum, Tabonefi, Summaki, Sabogel, Samusalai,
Tainefar, Thorta, Unau, Taumuti, Sul, Sutemil,
Tap, Uiienger, Wutel> Laipilau, SiiUang, Thelta,
Urieng, Meit, Feidel, Tumunaupikiii, Sop, &c.
Smaller islands along the coast of Eap are- without
either names or inhabitants.

Eap has a language of its own, which is now
spoken only in the following group.

Ngoli (K.)i Ngolog (T.), Ngoly (C.) A small
k)w groupi at a short distance from Eap to the
south, and on the way to Pelli. It has only three
islands, and of these only that after which the
groups is called is inhabited, and this has not above
thirty people. The names Petangaras and Laddo,
in Cantova, relate to the other islands of the
group, and the name of Laddo is preferred in
many of the new charts; for example, Burney's.

Between Eap and the Pelew islands we may
eompare, with Ngoli, the island de los Reyes
Saavedra, 15QS, de los Matalotes, Villalobos,
1^42 ; those of Hunter 1791, and the islands seen
1796. Those of Hunter seem to correspond most
with the situation of Ngoli. The islas de Sequeira,
1526, are, with much probability, supposed by
Burney to be los Martires of the Spaniards, 1802,
more to the west than the Pelew islands.

Pelli (K.), according to the pronunciation of
Ulea, and, according to him, more correctly Walau ;

K S

:r

134

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

Pannog (T.), Paleu and Palaos (C.)» the Pelew
islands of Wilson. Los Arrecifes of R. L. de
Villalobos, 1542. Islands of Thieves of Sir Francis
Drake, 1579? • - r ,..,t .*,.,n ..i.^pj, .•

An archipelago of high islands, divided into two
rows, which are constantly at war. The Pelew
islands are perfectly known to us, and are regu*
larly visited by our ships. They have a language
of their own, and even the people seem to differ
in many respects from the Carolinians.

The chart of Don Luis de Torres is bounded
here, and Cantova has nothing in addition, except
St. Andrew's islands to the south-west of Palaos.

Kadu reckons besides, in this direction, Lamu-
niur (K.), Lamuliur (Father Clain). Compare the
Doubtful islands of St. John. . . .-

Sonsorol (K.), and Relation et Lettres Edifi-
antes, torn. xi. p. 75., is also found on the accom*
panying chart. Sonrol in Cantova : both names in
Fr. Juan de la Conception* ,.,^,

Kathogube (K.), Codocopuei (C.) The two
latter are the St. Andrew's islands, where the first
missionaries, Cortil and Duperon, were abandoned,
in the year I710, and which have since been for-
gfotten. They appear in the reports of the mission
as islands of one group j and Kadu, who separates
them, and gives their distances from each other
in days* voyages, cannot well be considered as
authority for islands which he has never visited.

•(

>fi ,x >.' Jbf .Lii'

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 135

Wull (K.), Poulo and Pulo, after the reports
of the missions, according to which it lies S. i S. W*
of Sonsorol. Compare Carteret's Current island.

Merir (K.), Merieres, after the reports of the
missions, and, according to them, S. i S. E. of
Sonsorol. Compare Warren Hastings' island.

The names of the two latter islands, Pulo Maria
and Pulo Ana, are noted on the chart to Fr. Juan
de la Concepcion, t. ix. p. 150. Pulo Anna and
Pulo Mariere, on other charts, are corrupt com-
pounds of different languages. The Malayan word
Pulo, for island, is well known to the Europeans in
the Malayan archipelago. > t, , ..ur^-aKus -

All these islands to the S. W. of the Palaos, are
low islands, or groups of islands, whose peaceable
and inoffensive inhabitants speak the language
of Ulea. The events at Sonsorol, where islanders
from Ulea and Lamureck served as interpreters to
the Spaniards, confirm Kadu's statement.

According to Kadu, the trading-boats go from
Ulea to these islands, namely, as far as Merir, by
way of the chain of the northern islands, as we have
followed them from Ulea; but they return from
Merir to Ulea by another way, viz. by \ii,i .tuii

Sorol, or Sonrol (K.), (not the Sonrol of St.
Andrew's islands), Zaraol (Cantova), according to
whom it ie under the dominion of Mogemug, and
is fifteen leagues distant. It is marked on his
chart, but the name is omittedo

K 4

n.

m

136

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

I

■ A small low group of two islands to the south,
and no great distance from Mogemug.

Compare Philip's islands of Captain Hunter,
1791, and the two islands, in 1791, which we have
already mentioned, with more probability, at Eurii-

Sorol, according to Kadu's statement, appears to
have been peopled from Mogemug, and to have
been under its jurisdiction. It is now wholly de-
populated. These traditions also mention —

Liigiilot, a low group of islands ; a boat from
which, bound to

Umaluguoth, a remote desert island, for the
purpose of catching turtle, was driven upon Sorol.
The strangers were guilty of robbery. The quarrel
which ensued led to bloodshed. The chief of
Sorol, and seven men and five women, on his side,
were killed ; on the side of the strangers, about
four men. Subsequently, some of the inhabitants
of Sorol went to sea, but never returned. At last
only 01^ man and some women remained on this
group. We can ofier a conjecture on the situation
of these islands.

Don Luis de Torres has enabled us to look for
the discoveries made by Wilson, on board the
Duff, in 1797, among the Carolinas ; and we are
incUned to recognize Ulea in his populous and rich
group of thirteen islands, though the number of
the islands, among which he only counts six large

i?IRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 137

ones, does not agree. If we are not mistaken in
our supposition, the island-chain runs from Ulea
to Setoan (the group of thirteen islands, and
Tucker's Island), under the seventh degree of
north latitude, from west to east, the direction
which it takes on Cantova's chart, and not from
W.N.W. to £.S.£. as Don Luis de Torres draws it.
This chain occupies, besides, about three degrees
of longitude, instead of extending above five.

The relative situation of the islands may be more

easily obtained from the accounts of the natives,

than their distances. The points of the compass

may be pointed out with precision ; the distances,

according to the time required for the voyage, and

even here, all measure of time is wanting. Cantova

appears, in drawing his chart, to have commenced

hke Don Luis de Torres, from Ulea, which he

properly marks to the south of Guahon. Both of

them had fixed points for the western part, between

which it only remained to place the other islands.

This was not the case for the eastern part, where

they had unlimited space open to them. AVe can

only wonder at the accidental agreement of the

standard which they have applied. If now we

have a right to apply the reduced scale, which

Wilson's discoveries furnish, to the province of

Cittac, we must look for it between 148° and

152° east longitude of Greenwich, and 5^° and 8^"

north latitude. And we find, in fact, that several

I'V

■r..

L

r

^ I'

138

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

Ui

w.

islands, discovered by our navigators, have been
found in these limits j namely,

The island seen by Captain Mulgrave in the
Sugar-Cane, in 1793, and by Don J. Ibargoitia, in
1801 ; which the latter (without assigning a reason)
and Arrowsmith take for Quiroso, or St. Bartho-
lomew, a large, tolerably high island, which Quiros
discovered in 1595, after the death, of Mendana.
We observe that low groups of islands must be in
the west, near Quiroso.

The island of Cota, in 1801. r K -iii^*?" » ^hv, i
Alow island, seen in 1796. ,?;!<[; i ;.'r ;:'•:■:
Los Martires. ; <

The Shoal of Don Luis de Torres, in the Maria,
in 1804* •■ f<M;,:.-;, ■':::*£rf4.r m'^^imw^ii \h\ ^-yt^t^-if^ n
The Anonuna of Espitiosa^s chart. . , ,'ri.yi <
And the high land of M. Dublon, in the St. An-
tonio, in 1814. *i » -/ , *;.,.«-
The coincidence of Monleverde with Lugulus
in the chart of Don Luis de Torres, is to be
considered as an illusion. On the other hand,
we are not indisposed to unite with Burney, Ho-
goleu, and Quiroso, but we believe that this island
must be removed westwards from the place where
he has laid it down, and where the low group of St.
Augustin, of F. Tompson, in 1773, really lies. The
situation of Dublon's Island, which is described,
like Tuch, to have a high peak, seems to us to
correspond with Quiroso or Hogoleu, whereas
Ibargoitia recognizes Quiroso in an island, which

FIRST PROVINCE OF THE GREAT OCEAN. 13^

appears to us to take up the place where we should
have rather looked for Tuch.

To the east of Cittac, as far as to the island-chain
of Ralick and Radack, remains a space of about
fifteen degrees, in which the uncertain accounts
of Cantova lead us to suppose many islands, and
where our navigators have in fact discovered
many. We merely observe among them, and
even to the east, some high islands, such as Strong
Island, (Teyoa of Arrowsmith) which is said to
rise to a high mountain, and Hope, in I8O7. St.
Bartholomew Island of Loyasa, in 1526, lies more
to the north, likewise a high land ; to the west
of which there are low islands. The islands seen
by the Nassau fleet have been erroneously referred
to these. " -^^ ^--i^nai^ ■> »\vv.'m^>'^^ :^':«- ■ '-v.-^

The boats from the province of Ulea and Eap,
which are driven to Radack, convince us that the
monsoon reaches much farther to the east than we
have supposed.

The seamen of these islands, who find their way
back from Radack again to their home, and on the
other side go to and from the Philippines, show us
that their navigation embraces a space of forty-five
degrees of longitude, which is almost the greatest
breadth of the Atlantic Ocean. ^ r : . j -

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

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RADACK, RALICK, REPITH-URUR, BOGHA, THE
CORNWALLIS' ISLANDS.

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W^E had opportunities at Radack to examine more
closely the formation of the low Coral islands,
and to illustrate and correct our previous observ-
ations on this subject. - r

We conceive an island-group of this formation
as a mass of rock, which rises with perpendicular
walls from the unfathomable depth of the ocean,
and forms on the surface an overflowed plateau.
A broad dam, constructed by nature round the
edge of this plateau, changes it into a basin.
This dam, or reef, is generally on the side of the
circumference turned to the wind, and at the time
of ebb rises like a broad causeway aboye the
water. On this side, and particularly on the pro-
jecting angles, the most islands collect on the
back or ridge of this dam. On the lee side, on
the contrary, it generally keeps under the water.
It is there partially interrupted, and its intervals
are sometimes broad enough to admit even large
ships, which sail with the current into the internal
basin. Within the inside of this entrance fre-
quently lie single rocky banks, like fragments of a
broken wail, or indications of it. Other similar
banks lie scattered here and there in the interior

RADACK AND OTHER ISLANDS.

141

of the basin. They seem to be of the same nature
as the surrounding wall, but never project above
the surface. The inner sea, or lagoon, in the
more considerable group of Kawen, was from twenty-
five to thirty-two fathoms in depth ; in the smaller
one of Eilu, twenty-two fathoms, with numerous
shoals. The bottom is finer or coarser coral sand,
and in some places corals. The ocean is already
coloured, at this depth, with the deep azure blue
which distinguishes the pure waters of this ocean.
The eye recognizes the shoals at a distance, and
the lead may be dispensed with.

That part of the reef which projects above the
water, and which may be examined, consists of al-
most horizontal masses of hard lime-stone, difficult
to be broken, which is composed sometimes of finer,
and sometimes of coarser fragments of madrepores,
mixed with numerous shells and thorns of sea
hedge-hogs, and breaks in large tables, which
loudly sound under the hammer. The stone con-
tains the lythophytes only as fragments, and no
where in the situation in which they have grown
and lived.

The surface of the dam is swept and smoothed,
on its edge turned to the exterior sea, by the
dashing of the surf. On the outer edge itself,
against which the breakers rage, blocks of the
stone have been torn up from their places. Such
blocks are found again scattered here and there,
on the side turned to the Lagnna. This side is

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS,

sloping, and the edge less sharply marked lies
under the water. It seems that the beds are de-
clivous in the interior, and that the upper beds do
not reach so far as those on which they rest. The
anchorages found in the Laguna of th<j groups, at
four, six, and eight fathoms' depth, protected by
the chief islands lying to the windward, are owing
to this declivity of the stony layer. The lead,
however, generally sinks at the inside, and along
the reef, from a depth of two to three fathoms im-
mediately to twenty or twenty-four, and you may
pursue a line in which on one side of the boat you
see the bottom, and on the other the azure-blue
deep water.

A fine white sand of madrepore fragments covers
the declivity of the dam, which is washed by the
water. A few kinds of branching madrepores,
or millepores, rise partially from this bottom, in
which they have fixed themselves, with roots of a
round form. Several others grow on the stone
walls of larger clefVs, the bottom of which is filled
up with sand; among these also the Tubipora
musica, which we saw in a living state, and the
producers of which we recognized to be a polypus
of the form of a star of eight rays. Species which
cover the stone, or assume a lozenge form (Asirea)
are always met with in the constantly-watered
hollows of the bottom, next to the breakers. The
red colour of the reef, under the breakers, is
caused by n Nullipora, which covers the stone

RADACK AND OTHEB ISLANDS.

143

wherever the waves beat, and under favourable
circumstances, assumes a stalactitical form. The
colour and silky lustre, which disappear in the air,
immediately decided us to ascribe to this substance
an animal nature, and the treatment of the bleached
skeleton, with diluted nitric acid, confirmed our
opinion, which had been founded on analogy.
The cursory view distinguishes, only by the
colouring, and a certain velvet-like appearance,
the lythophytes, with fine pores in a living state,
from their dead bleached skeletons. We found
only the Millepora ceerulea, and the Tubipora
mtisica, and a yellowish, red-brown Disticho-
pora, with coloured skeletons; but never saw
the latter alive. The kinds with larger stars, or
Lamellce, ^ ave larger and more distinguishable
polypusf;^ 1 lus an animal, resembling the Actu
nitty covers ilie end-branches of a species of Cary-'
ophylliat which we also found alive above low
water-mark ; the branches and roots seem to be
bleached and dead. We often see in the lytho-
phytes living branches, or parts existing witli
others that are dead ; and the species, which other-
wise assume a spherical form, spread out in places
where sand is carried, into flat surfaces, with a
raised edge, because the sand kills the upper part,
and they can only live and grow on the circum-
ference. The enormous masses of one growth,
which ai'e met with here and there on the islands,
or on the reefs, as rolled pieces of rock, have been

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

probably formed in the tranquil depths of the
ocean. Above^ under the influence of various
agents, only masses of inferior size can be formed.
A broad limbed Corallina, in a living state, has
a vegetable green colour, which it loses when
dried. There occurs only one small species of
Fuctis, which is not yet described, (Fucus Radac-
censiSf Mertens,*) , ,, 'j . , ::,j.

The sand which is deposited on the inner de-
clivity of the reef there accumulates in places into
banks. These sand-banks become islands. These,
as we have already observed, are more numerous,
of larger extent, and richer in soil on the wind-
wai'd side, and on the projecting angles of the
group. Smaller, as it were infant, islands lie with-
in upon the reef, and the inner sea constantly
washes their beach. Some islands rest on stone
layers, which slope towards the inner sea. These
layers, where they should appear, towards the outer
sea, are mostly covered with another layer of the
same stone, which consists of coarser fragments of
madrepores, and appears on its upper sunace un-
even and eaten away. This exterior layer is fre-
quently broken to pieces, and lies in large blocks,
displaced from its natural situation. In other
islands we perceive, on the external and internal

* Algtg^ which seem to be entirely wanting on the low islands,
are found on the reefs at the foot of the high land. We collect-
ed on the reefs of Woahoo Fucus natans and others, several
Ulve«e, &c.

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RAOACK A.VD OTHER ISLANDS.

145

side, a thin layer; the formation seems to betiew,
and layers of sand mostly alternate with those of
limestone. This h always the cas^ on th§ beach
of the inner sea. , .

A dam of great m^drepore-rolls cast up upon
this foundation, fonns, towards the breakers, the
exterior edge of the islands. The interior of them
consists of flats and small hills. Towards the beach
of the inner sea, thp ground is raised a little, and
of fine sand* On the islgnd of Otdia, in the group
of the same name, the inner sea encro^phes on the
land in one place, and a Lythrurn Pemphi^ grows
with bare roots on the ropks which arp washpd by
the spa* In the inner part of Otdia therp is a lake
of sweet water, and in Tabual, of the group of Aur,
a marshy ground. There i^ no want of fresh
water in the larger islands ; it rises sufficiently ip
the pits dug for the purpose.

On the dam of fragments which surrounds the
exterior of thp islands, grow, first, ScacvQla Konigii
,']ind Toumefortia sericecff These screening bushes
gradually rise, and their thickly intertwined
branches present outwardly to the wind an inclined
surface, qnder the protection cf whjph the wood or
bushes of the interior pf the island rises. The Pan-
dunus, and where the spij is rijchcr, also a Cerhera
constitute the chief vegetation. Guetlardfi speciosQ^
Morinda citrifoliat Terpiinalia MohiccensiSy are
common on all the islands. Hemandia sonora js
seldom wanting on the richer ones j CaloplnjUujri

VOL. i\\. h

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146

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

inophyllumj Dodonea viscosa, Cordia sebestena, &c.
are met with singly. On the northern, poorer
groups, grow Li/thrum Pemphis and Suriana mari-
tima, on the beach of the inner sea, on the dry sand.
They are wanting in Kawen and Aur. Only the
bank of the inner sea is habitable for man, and
there he builds his huts under the cocoa-trees
which he has planted.

The Flora of these islands is poor : we found in
the Radack chain only fifty-nine kinds of plants,
including those, seven in number, which are found
only in a state of cultivation. Three and twenty
of this number, among which were five cultivated,
we had already met with in Woahoo, and twelve,
including the cocoa-tree, on RomanzofF Island,
where we, upon the whole, collected only nineteen
species. We afterwards met with about twenty
of them in Guahon. We observed neither oranges
nor cabbage-trees grow upon the Radack chain,
as far as we were acquainted with it, productions
which have been ascribed, upon dubious inform-
ation, to the Mulgrave islands. • <-'*• \

We do not think that the Flora is confined to the
number of plants above mentioned, but, on the
contrary, that several kinds escaped our observ-
ation, even on the groups which we visited, and, of
which, we were not able to explore all the islands;

• Vide the Voyage of Governor Phillips, 9A edit. Lon-
don, 1790, p. 218.: the voyage oi' the Scarborough, Captain
Marshall.

1.1

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RADACK AND OTHER ISLANDS.

147

and that the southern groups in particular, which we
have not seen (Arno, Meduro, and Mille), having
richer soil and older vegetation, must produce
more plants, which are entirely wanting on the
northern and poorer islands. The vegetation of
this chain seems to have begun in the south, and
that man pursued its progress to the north.

Bygar, still desert and without fresh water, is
only visited for the purpose of ca^ hing birds, and
turtles. Udirick, a reef of inconsiderable circum-
ference, and poor in land, has only two inhabited
islands. In these the cocoa rises indeed above the
rest of the wood, but the vegetation seems poor,
and the bread-fruit tree rare. Tegi, near Udi-
rick, desert and of a scanty verdure, is scarcely
known by name among the people of Radack.
Eilu (perhaps, more correctly, Eilug) is the poorest
of the groups at which we landed. Udirick and
Eilu obtain the aroma, a plant which they have not,
from the more westerly group of Ligiep. The
bread-fruit tree is wanting in Ligiep, and the cocoa-
tree does not rise above the rest of the wood.
Temo, half way to Ligiep, is a small desert island,
where those who undertake the voyage pass the
night. Mesid, a single detached island, lying east-
ward, about two miles in its greatest diameter, did
not afford us, on the lee side, where we approached
it, the prospect of any abundant vegetation. Only
single cocoa-trees rise from its centre, and the fresh
water which they offered us to drink was extremely

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148

REMARKS AND OPINIONSi

I!

bad. Yet it is distinguished from all the gi'oiips
of Radack, which we have visited, by its more
numerous population. We estimated the number of
people, who were collected at our approach, on the
shore and in boats, at a hundred at the least. The
considerable group of Otdia, with which we became
best acquainted, has scarcely so large a number of
inhabitants, including women and children. Only
one island of this latter group has lofty cocoa-trees,
and, on this alone, there are many roots and traces
of trees that have formerly perished. Erigup, near
Otdia, is a poor, inconsiderable group, inhabited by
only five men and some women. We found Kawen,
the largest group seen by us, in older cultivation,
and in a more flourishing state. The Flora is richer,
and it was there we first discovered the plantain,
which seemed to have been newly planted. The
island of Tabual, the only one of the group of Aur
at which we landed, had an uncommonly luxuriant
vegetation. Behind a thick wood of lofty cocoa-
trees, there are in the low grounds plantations of
banana and arum, and some plants grow there,
which are not to be found on the other groups.
The southern groups of Meduro, Arno, and Mille
are said to be richer in bananas and roots, and
the two first are equal to all the rest of the chain
in population and power. Linunosaliilii, to the
north of Arno, is a reef or rock over which the
sea breaks, and which serves the mariners of Radack
as a guide.

i t

RADACK AND OTHER ISLANDS.

149

The sight of all these groups, and their single
islands, has a tiresome uniformity. Looking from
the outer sea, where the cocoa-tree is not seen rising
above the rest of the wood, it would hardly be
supposed that there were any inhabitants. From
the inner sea you see the settlements and the
progress of cultivation. Only one island of the
group of Otdia is distinguished, and attracted our
attention already, on the outer sea, by the appear-
ance of higher land. It rose like a beautifully ver-
dant hill above the mirror of the waves. This
island occupies the projecting angle of the northern
reef. Differing in shape from the other islands, it
has less breadth and more depth, as it extends over
a point which the reef forms to the inner sea. The
currents of this sea produce on the beach, which it
washes, a violent surf. What appears to be a hill
is wood. A tree, which circumstances would not
allow us to examine, attains there an astonishing
height and thickness, on a low ground of large
masses of Madrepores. On other islands, where it
is also found, it does not reach a considerable
height. Trees which have been thrown down have
frequently changed their roots into stems, their
branches taking root, a circumstance which is not
uncommon in Radack, and is an indication of
hurricanes. The low wood towards the edge of the
island appears to show its progressive enlargement.
The pandanuts is a stranger : nothing atti'acts man
- ••, .v^ . ' h 3 :

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150

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

to this place. A sea-swallow, Sterna stolida, builds
in countless flocks in the high airy summits. *

The most useful plant of this island-chain is the
common pandanus of the South Sea islands (JVob).
It grows wild on the sterile sand, where vegetation
commences, and fertilizes the ground by the many
leaves which fall from it. It luxuriates in the
moist, low ground of the more fruitful islands. It
is also diligently cultivated ; numerous varieties,
with improved fruits, which are to be ascribed to
cultivation, are propagated by layers. Their seed
produces the original species (the Erttan)A The
fruit of the pandanus constitutes, in Radack, iha,

* At Erigup we saw the same birds in equally large flocks,
hovering over one of the islands, which is otherwise not dis*
tinguished from the rest.

f There are above twenty varieties, which are distinguished
by the exterior form of the fruit, or compound stone-fruit which
they compose, and by the number of simple fruits or kernels
which they contain. The masculine tree is called Digar ; the
wild growing feminine Eruan : varieties are, Buger, Bugien,
Eilugk, Undaim, Erugk, Lerro^ Adiburikf Eidebototh Eroma-
mugkt Tabenebogk, Rabilebil, Tumulisien, Lugulugubilan,
Ultdieriy Sfc. (The fruit, which we received in 1816, from
Udirick, vtm Lerro ; the pandanus on the RomanzofT Island,
Erttan.) That part of the fruit, from which the people of
Radack and Ralick draw their principal subsistence, is used in
the Sandwich, Marquesas, and Friendly islands, for aromatic
shining yellow wreaths. We observe, by the way, that the
species Pandanus requires a farther and difficult investigation,
because the characters which most botanists have chosen to
distinguish the species, which they have enumerated, are in-
sufficient. Loureiro, Flor. Cochin, expressly observes, that the
fruit of the P. odoratisdmus is unfit to be eaten.

\^

RADACK AND OTH£R ISLANDS.

151

food of the people. The compound fibrous stone-
fruits which compose the conical fruit, contain a
spicy juice at their basis, the point where they are
iixed. To obtain this juice, the fruit is first beaten
with a stone, the fibres chewed, and pressed in the
mouth. The fruit is also baked in pits, afler the
manner of the South Sea, not so much to eat it in
this state, as to prepare mogan from it, a spicy dry
confectionary, which is carefully preserved as a
valuable stock for long voyages. To prepare the
mogan, all the members of one or more families
are employed. From the stone-fruits, as they come
out of the baking-pit, the condensed juice is ex-
pressed by passing them over the edge of a shell,
then spread out on a grate, covered with leaves,
exposed over a slight charcoal fire to the sun, and
dried. The thin slices, as soon as they are sufH-
ciently dried, are rolled up tight, and these rolls
then neatly wrapped in the leaves of the tree, and
tied up. The kernel of this fruit is well tasted,
but difficult to be obtained, and is oflen neglected.
From the leaves of the pandanus the women pre-
pare all sorts of mats, as well the square ones with
elegant bordei's, which serve as aprons, as those
which are used as ship's sails, and the thicker ones
for sleeping upon.

After the pandanus, the cocoa-tree (Ni) holds
the second rank. It is not only rendered valuable
by its nut, which affords drink and food, vessels
and oil for domestic use, but also and principally

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152

ilEMARKS AND OPINIONS;

for its bast, from which cords and strings afc?
made. On the i^andanus depends the food, and
dtt the cocoa-ttee the navigation of these people^
The manufacturing of the roped and strings is art
employment of the men, and even the greatest
chiefs are seen engaged in it; The fibres of the bast
are separated and cleaned, by maceration, in pits of
fresh water; The rope is spun at the same time with
the two threads of which it consists, eqUal bundles
of fibres prepared befbre-hand being added to
each. The wood of the old cocoa-tree, rubbed to
powder, and mixed to a doUgh, with the help of
the juice of the hUsk of the unripe nUt, is boiled iri
cocoa-nut shells, or roasted over the fire, and
used for* fdod. Cocoa-nut shells are the only
vessels In which the people can carry water about
with them ; they are preserved in longish woven
baskets, made expressly for the purpose, with the
eye upwards, and strung together. The cocoa-
tree is planted and increased every Adhere on the
inhabited and uninhabited islands ; but, notwith-
standing the many young plantations with which
you meet, it is only seen bearing fruit on the inhab-
ited islands, and only on a few, and in the
southern groups waving its crown high in the air.
The cocoa-tree bears only very small nuts in
Radack.

The bread fruit-tree {Ma) is not common itl
Radack, it is' found only planted in the damp
ground in the interior of the inhabited islands.

ilADACK AND OTHEU ISLAJfDS.

15J

Old trees are however found even in some of the
poorer ones. Its wood, as well as its fruit, is vaht-
able, being employed for the keel of their boats j
the other planks are made of drift wood< They
are joined together with jttrings of cocoa-bast, and
the joints caulked with pandanus leaves. The
bread-fruit tree also produces a resin, which is used
for various purposes* The bredd-fruit tree, like all
cultivated plants, has several varieties. The only
one that occurs here deviates very little from tii?
orginal form y its fruit is small, and the kerndfi ofiet.
perfect. * >* , >:

A useful bast is procured from the berk cf
three different species of plants found here m a
wild state* The principal is a shrub of the family
of nettle (a Boemeria ? ) the Aromct, Which grows
only upon richer and moister soil.

The Aroma produces a white thread of uiicotw •
mon fineness and strength* The Atahat (IVimn^
phetta procumbens, Forst.) is a creeping plant ; it is
common, and, with the Cassi/ta, covers the most
sterile sand. Men's aprois are chie^y made of its
brown bast ; they consist of loose strips of bast,
which are sewed to a girdle of mat. It is also
Used for the ornamental borders in the finer matr.,
The fine white bast of the Hibiscus populneus (Xo,)
which we found in Radack on the A»i;. group, is
used for the same purpose. I.\ the Sandwich
islands, and other plat;es. stiiUgs are made of
this bast* i,--;:.*f.'i-M.M:,. .. ^.- . '. -, <r ^^-r-^^^

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154

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

From the bulbous roots of the Tacca pinnalifida^
which is very frequent here, a nourishing flour
is procured, but which appears to be seldom pre-
par'^d, and little used.

Ttuee species of Arum (Caladium, A.) Esculen-
turn, Marcrorhizon, and Sagittifblmm, the banana,
and the Rhizophora gymnorhiza, are singly culti-
vated here and there, on different groups and
islands. We found the banana first cultivated in
Kawcn, and saw it bearing fruits only in Aur.
These species of arum do not find here the deep
marshy ground which they require to form their
roots, and are not calculated, in these islands, to
constitute the essential food of the people.

Besides these plants, two of the rarer kinds,
which are found wild, are generally planted round
the habitations ; two ornamental plants, a Sida and
a Crmum, the sweet-scented flowers of which are
mixed with those of the Guettarda speciosa, the
Volcameria inermis, and^ in Aur, Ixara coccineaf
in elegant wreaths, which are worn in the long hair,
which is fastened up, and in the ears. The people
of Radack, though poor, are distinguished lor
their love of perfumes and elegant ornament.

The sea throws up on the reefs of Radack the
trunks of northern firs and trees cf the torrid zone
(palms, bamboo). It provides the inhabitants, not
only with timber for boats, but it also brings them,
in the wrecks of European ships, the iron which
they want. We did not find among them any tool?)

19

RADACK AND OTHER ISLANDS.

155

to work their wood, except the valuable metal
obtained in this manner ; and when we would
not credit the assertion of our friends in this re-
spect, we found ourselves such a piece of wood, with
nails remaining in it on the shore, under the lee
of one of the islands of the group of Otdia. They
receive, in a similar manner, another treasure, hard
stones fit for whetting. They are sought for in
the roots and hollows of the trees which the sea
throws up : iron and stones belong to the chiefs,
to whom they must be delivered, on payment of a
reward; punishment being inflicted, in case of
concealment.

The sea brings to these islands the seeds and
fruits of many trees, most of which have not yet
grown there. The greater part of these seeds ap-
pear to have not yet lost the capability of growing,
and we have frequently entrusted to the bosom of
the earth the present intended for it. We have
collected them, and found among them, fruits of
pandanus species, which are only met with in the
larger countries lying to the west, those of Bar-
ingtonia speciosot the Akurites triloba^ and other
trees belonging to the general Flora of Polynesia,
and which we afterwards saw in the west, on the
Mariana islands. The greatest pait of these seeds
belong to the arborescent or creeping siliquose
plants, which are found every where in abundance
between the tropics. The seeds of the Guilandina
bonduc are frequently found among thum \ and

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UEMAItKS AND OPlKlOKS.

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We met with the plant itself only once in the group
of Otdia, on an island to the leeward. We ob-
served that the seeds which, being cast by the tide
over the reef> reach the inner, or lee side of an
island) find more protection, a better soil, and cir-
cumstances more favourable for their growth
than those which the surf throws upon the out-
side.

We frequently find rolled pumice-stones among
the objects cast up by the sea, and compact masses
of the Cassyta^ resembling those which the Zostera
marina forms on some of our coasts, and which are
called on the French coast, in the Mediterranean,
Ploite de men

Besides the Mammalia, which the sea nourishes,
the dolphins, which the people of Radack kill only
singly, and very seldom, as they are not numerous
and powerful enough to surround them like other
islanders in herds, drive them into their reefs, and
catch them, the Cachelof, and tlie more rare
whales, only the rat, which is everywhere spread,
is found in Radack, and which, as it has no enemy,
has increased in a dreadful degree. Kadu, who
seems to think that the rat is only to be found in
the company of man, affirms that there are none
in Bygar. In the more populous groups, for in-
stance, in Aur, these troublesome animals are

» We saw, in the year 1817, u i'hjfsvler tnacrocephalus, near
Iladuck.

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KADACK AND OTHER ISLANDS.

157

sometimes pursued. They are collected together
by means of baits, which are half surrounded by
fire-pits, and driven into the iire, which has been
lighted for them. The rat is eaten by the women
in Udirick, and our sailors also saw vrornen eating
them in Otdia. i:^;. ^ "t y^.: .; r - i

Fowls are found in Radack in a wild state; they
are not used for food, except in Udirick : in the
the other groups they are caugh' singly, and
tamed for pleasure, without deriving any advan-
tage from them. Here and there you find a fowl
round the habitations, which, fastened by his foot
to a string, and tied to a pole, reminds us of the
Tagalese fighting-cock. A small white heron is
likewise tamed. Besides the fowl and the pigeon
of the South Sea, (Columba austraiiSy) there arc only
wood and water birds, and these are not in great
numbers, in the inhabited groups. The Sterna
stolida is the most frequent, and fond of being in
the neighbourhood of the surf.

The sea-turtle is caught at Bygar ;' of the class
0? Amphibia?, there are, besides, four small kinds
of lizards at Radack.

The Lagunas in the interior of the island-groups,
arc poor in fish. Outside, about the reefs, and at
the entrances, there are swarms of sharks ; but they
seldom penetrate into the inner sea: it is said that
these animals do not attack men at Bygar. We
caught bonetos at the entrance of Eilu. The fly-
ing-fish is the most frequent in the neighhourhootl

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REMARKS AKD OPINIONS.

..X

1 «

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of low islands. The Radackers catch it by torch-
lighti in the night. There are several sorts of
fish which are not eaten, and are considered as
poisonous. Kadu mentioned instances of persons
poisoned in this manner. These species are eaten
at Ulea, after a certain internal part (the liver ?)
has been taken out ; and several (for instance, the
Diodon and Tetrodon species) are even considered
as dainties. Among the poisonous fish at Radack,
two rays {Raja) are mentioned, which attain an
extraordinary size ; one of tliem has, like the Raja
aquiUif and R. posiinaca, a large thorn on the tail ;
the other has five. Both, according to Kadu,
dart these thorns from them in their defence ; and
when they are lost, they grow again within twenty
days. They are always taken hold of before.
They are pursued on account of their skin, which
is used to cover drums. Both species are eaten at
Ulea. "■■-^■--^ T-' ^. 1.

There is a great variety, both of univalve and
l)ivalve shells. Many of them are eaten, and tlie
shells of different ones are variously used. The
Triton's horn is used as a signal trumpet. The
Chamagigas, and other large bivalve shells serve
as vessels, and are also used as instruments for
cutting: the mother-of-pearl is sharpened into
knives; and smaller kinds of snails are worn as
ornaments, in elegant rows, round the head and
neck. ' *^ '

Among the crabs, we noticed several small

U

RAOACK AND OTHER ISLANDS.

159

species of Pagurus,vfh\ch, in the borrowed speckled
shells of all kinds of sea snails, go into the interior
of the islands to seek their food.

The varieties of naked MoIusccb, worms, and
zoophytes, are particularly numerous. We ob-
served a cuttle-fish, several beautiful species of sea
hedge-hogs and sea-stars, some Medusas (but these
not in all the groups,) and a few Hoiothuria, The
poor inhabitants of Radack, who are oflen in dis-
tress for food, have on their reefs, in abundance,
one of the animals, (^Trepcmg,) afler which the
Chinese epicures are so eager, and frequently suf^
fer want, without attempting to satisfy their hun-
ger with these disgusting worms. The sea fre-
quently throws on the reefs a snvatl physalis,
{Physalis pelagica. Tiles.) A worm which pierces
the rocks below the high water mark, and lives in
the inside of the lime-stone, and our common
worm, are natives of these remote islands.

There are here but very few insects ; we ob-
served the Scolopendra morsitans, and the Scorpio
mtstralasia', of which the natives did not appear
to be afraid ; and the sting of which, according to
Kadu, produces a local swelling, which is of short
duration.

The inhabitants of Radack aiw neither of large
stature, nor remarkable bodily strength. Though
slender, they arc well built and healthy, and ap-
pear to attain a very old age, accompanied with a

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160

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

considerable share of clieerfulness, and activity. ♦
Children are suckled for a long time, and receive
the breast when they can already walk and talk.
The Radackers are of a darker colour than the
people of Owhyee, from whom they are advantoge-
ously distinguished by greater clearness of the skin,
which is not disfigured, either by the effects of the
kava, or by any cutaneous disease. Both sexes
wear their long beautiful black hair neatly and ele-
gantly tied up behind. The children have it
hanging down, unconfined* and curly. The men
suffer their beard to grow, which is long, though
not particularly thick, t Their teeth arc generally
spoiled by the nature of their food; from the
chewing of the woody, fibrous fruit of the pan-
danus ; and, sometimes, in the front, arc broken
off. It is less frequent with the chiefs, for whoni
the juice of the fruit is generally pressed out, and
separated over the edge of a shell. Men and
women wear, in their pierced ear-lappets, a rolled

* We must mention a natural deformity, which we observed
in several wives of the chiefs of different groups, and in a
young chief of the group of Eilut It respects the fore-arm. 'ITie
ulna appears, in the bend of the hand, dislocated above, and tlif
fore-arm, which is bent, or more or less checked in its growth,
is in some cases scarcely a span long ; the hand is small, and
bent outwards. A child in Otdia, had a double row of teeth in
its mouth. We met also with an instance of a person deaf and
(lumb.

t We were told of a contest in Tabual, in which a m^n from
Meduro was killed, whose board reached to his knee !

RADACK AND OTHKIl rSLA!<fDS.

161

pandanus leaf. The roll for the men is three
inches in diameter, and for women, only half.
It is, sometimes, covered by a very thin plate of
tortoise-shell. Some older people had, besides,
pierced the upper edge of the ear, to put flowers
through it.

The skilful, elegant tattooing * differs according
to the sex ; in each it is uniform. For the men it
forms over the shoulder and breast a triangle point-
ed to the navel, which consists of several variously
combined stripes : similar well-disposed horizontal
stripes occupy the back and the stomach. With
the women only the arms and the shoulders are
tattooed. Besides this regular designing, which is
only executed when they grow up, and is wanting
in very few, they have all, when children, groups
of designs or stripes tattooed over their hips and
arms, but more seldom in the face. Among these
drawings we sometimes observed the figure of the
Roman cross, t The place tattooed is very dark,
drawn sharply and raised above the skin.

The dress of the men consists in a girdle with
bast strips hanging down, to which is often added

• In the spring of 1816 we overlooked this tattooing in
Udiruk (KutosoiTs islands.)

t Natives of the Mulgrave islands who went on board the
Charlotte had a cross suspended from their neck, after the cus-
tom of the Spaniards. We did not meet with this ornament in
Radack, and endeavoured in vain to discover in the mark men-
tioned any relation to Clifistians and Europeans. . .
VOL. in. M

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16-2

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

m

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a smaller square mat as an apron ; boys go quite
naked till they have arrived at manhood. The
women wear two longer mats, fastened with a string
over the hips, the girls wear, very early, a small
apron. The men frequently have, besides the
flower and shell wreaths, with which both sexes
adorn themselves, a necklace of stringed dolphin's
teeth, with plates of the bones of the same animal,
or of the turtle, hanging in front. For this orna-
ment thin, round shells, or slices of cocoa-nut shells,
are used. We likewise found among their orna-
ments the tail feathers of the tropical birds, the
feathers of the frigate bird, and bracelets formed oi'
the shell of a large univalve, and well polished.

The Irus, or chiefs, are frequently distinguished
by their large stature, never by immoderate cor-
pulency. * The tattooing in them generally extends
over those parts of the body which are not tattooed
in common people, the sides, the hips, the neck,
or the arms.

The houses of the Radackers consist only of a
roof supported on four posts, with a hanging floor.
They are only high enough to admit a person to
sit under them. You climb through a square
opening into the upper room which contains all
their little property. They sleep on this floor or
in the open space below, and several open huts of

* The chief of the group of Ligiep is said to make un excen-
tion, and to be a particularly fat maji.

M

RADACK AND OTHER ISLANDS.

163

the form of a tent round about, serve as separate
sleeping apartments. The roofs are of cocoa or
pandanus leaves; the floor is strewed with very fine
fragments of coral and shells, which are found on
the shore. Only a coarse mat serves for a bed and
a block of wood for a pillow.

At first we did not take these houses, which we
often found deserted, to be the constant residences
of the people. These seamen sail in their ingenious
boats • with their family and all their goods from
one island to another, and in this manner, after we
had become intimate with them, the greater part
of the population of a group always assembled
near us.

The wild pandanus appears to be general pro-
perty. A bundle of leaves of this tree (tokens of
property) tied to the branch on which the fruit is
ripening, secures the right of him who has discover-
ed it. We have frequently, and particularly in the
northern poorer groups, seen this fruit, which is the
only food of the Radackers, devoured quite unripe.
Cocoa trees are private property. Those in the
neighbourhood of the habitations, the fruit of which
is ripening, are often seen with a cocoa leaf fastened
round the stem, which is intended, by the rustling, to
give notice if any one should attempt to climb the

* The author of these essays leaves it to more competent
persons to describe scientifically these vessels, which agree in
their essential particulars with the oAen^mentioned proas of
the Mariana islands.

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164

REMARKS AND OPINIONSt

tree. In tlie populous groups of Kawen and Aui,
orclmrds are frequently surrounded with a cord in-
stead of a fence. '

Besides providing for their subsistence, our
friends have no other employment but their navi-
gation and singing. Their favourite, their only
property, are their boats and their drum, which are
their play-things in childhood. It is particular!)
in the evening, when they assemble in a circle round
their bright fire, that they sit singing their favourite
songs. Intoxicating joy then seizes every one and
all join their voices in the chorus. These songs
resemble those of the Owhyeeans, but they are
ruder and more discordant ; the gradually risii)(>^
tones of the song degenerate at last into a scream.

It was first and principally in the group of Otdia
that we became acquainted with the amiable
people of Radack. These people, who met us witli
friendly invitations, seemed for a time to fear us, in
the conviction of our superiority. The chiefs al-
ways showed the most courage and the greatest
confidence. Familiarity never made our friends
importunate or troublesome. The comparison
of our immense riches and their poverty, never de-
graded them to begging, seldom seduced them to
thefl, and never made them violate trust when it
was reposed in them. We daily wandered through
their islands unarmed, slept with our treasures,
knives and iron, by our side, under their roofs, went
upon long excursions in their boats, and confided

RADACK AND OTIIEK ISLANDS.

UkI

in tlieir character, as people conftde among us, in
the protecting vigilance of the law. At their own
voluntary request we exchanged our names. When-
ever we appeared, the people came hospitably to
meet us, and presented us with cocoa-nuts. We
did not barter at Otdia, we made presents and re-
ceived them in return. Some appeared to take as
much pleasure in giving as ourselves, and, with
great delicacy, brought us presents when none
could be expected in return. Others behaved with
more regard to self-interest. Where unheard-of
events bring on relations never thought of before
and custom is silent, the real character of men
must show itself without disguise. The women
conducted themselves with modesty and reserve,
they retired when they first saw us, and appeared
only under the protection of the men. In return for
our small presents of rings, and glass beads, which
they seemed to value less than odorous splinters of
the wood of English black lead pencils, they pre-
sented us, in a graceful manner, with the ornaments
which they then wore, their shell and flower wreaths.
No woman of Radack ever came on board our ship.
Everywhere we met the picture of peace among
an infant people ; we saw new plantations, advan-
cing cultivation, many children growing up, with a
small population ; the affectionate attention of the
fathers for their offspring, pleasing unaffected
manners, equality in the intercourse between
chiefs and other men, no servility to the more

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166

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

1

powerful, and with greater poverty and less self-
assurance, none of those vices which disgrace the
people of the more Eastern Polynesia.

We first learned at Aur, that these indigent
people also have their wars, and that the lust of
dominion and conquest has extended its curse to
them. They called upon us with our formidable
iron (we had not made them acquainted with the
more destructive powers of our arms) to interfere
like the powers of fate in their bloody feuds.

The powerful Lamary set out from Meduro, to
subject, by arms, all the northern island-groups of
Radack. He governed now over Aur, Kawen,
and the north of the chain, and had his residence
in Aur. The peojile of Meduro and Arno wage
war against him and his kingdom. Their expedi-
tions in thirty boats, each manned by six to ten
men, have extended themselves to Otdia.

The late battle in Tabual cost the lives of four
men, three on the side of Meduro, and one on the
side of Aur. In a former expedition, about twenty
were lost on each side, on the same island.

Lamary, in the beginning of the year 1817,
visited the islands in his territory, to assemble his
fleet of war-canoes, likewise consisting of thirty
boats, at Aur, whence he intended to proceed
against Meduro. We expected to find this prince
in Eiluj he was already at Udirick, at which group
he visited us in his boat in the open sea. When

UADACK AND OTIIKU ISLANDS.

1G7

we returned, towards the end of the same year, to
Otdia, the expedition was assembled in Aur.
Lamary had missed the island of Mcsid, and being
carried out of his course to other groups, had
given up the reinforcements which he had ex-
pected there.

We will relate, at length, what we have learned
of the religion, and social order, the manners and
customs of our friends.

The inhabitants of Radack adore an invisible
God, in heaven, and offer him a simple tribute
of fruits, without temples and without priests.
In their language, lageach signifies God : the
name of the god is Ants. When war or any
other important affair is to be undertaken, solemn
offerings are made, always in the open air. One
of the assembly, not the chief, consecrates the
fruits to the god, by holding them up, and invo-
cation ; the form is, Gidien Ants mne jeo, the as-
sembled people repeat the last words. When the
father of a family goes out on the fishery, or under-
takes any thing important, he offers among his
family. There are, on several islands, holy trees,
cocoa-palms, into the crown of which Ants de-
scends. Round tlie foot of such a tree four beams
are laid in a square. There does not appear to be
any prohibition to enter the space enclosed, and
the fruits of the tree are eaten by the people.

The operation of tattooing is associated in

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REMARKS AND oriNIOXS.

I

lladack with religious ideas, and cannot be iindcF-
talcen without certain divine tokens.* The persons
who desire to be tattooed -^ass the night in a house,
on which the chief, who is to perform the operation,
invokes the god ; an audible tone, or whistle, is said
to give his consent. If the token does not appear,
the operation is not performed. Hence some per-
sons never undergo it. If they were to transgress
in this respect, the sea would inundate the island,
and all the land be destroyed. The sea alone
threatens these islands, and religious faith often
suspends this rod ovei man. Against this, however,
conjurations prevail. Kadu saw the sea rising at
Radack, as far as the feet of the cocoa-trees, but
it was conjured in time, and retired within its own
limits. He named to us two men and one woman,
at Radack, wlio understood this conjuration.

The desert island-group of Bygar has its peculiar
god. The god of Bygar is blind, he has two young
Kons, of the name of Rigabuil, and the people who
vi: t Bygar call eacli other, as long as they stay
there, Rigabuil, that the blind god may take them
for his sons, and do gojd to them. Anis must not
be called upon in Bygar, tlic god would punish

♦ Our friend^ always refused, on various pretences, to confer
this ornament on us. They often represented to us the serious
consequences, the swelling of the linihc, the severe illness. A
rhicf of Aur once appointed one of us to pass the night at Imn
houhc, that he might tattoo him the following morning ; hut
when the niominy «amc, he repeatedly evaded the import imiiy
ol' hi;- ^ucst.

KADACK AND OTIIKK ISLANDS.

l()f)

llie culprit with severe illness and death. Under
a tree, in Bygar, offerings of fruits, cocoa, &c. are
brought. Certain forms of conjuration are effica-
cious and infallible to make the water come into
tiie pits; if the result is unfavourable, something
has b«;cn forgotten, and the words were not said
right. It is every where as with us.* At Bygar
the sharks are not allowed to do any harm to man :
the god will not suffer it. The inhabitants of all the
groups of Radack visit Bygar by way of Udirick,
only those of Eihi are not permitted to do it im-
mediately. They must remain a month at Udirick
heibre they sail there, and on their return must
spend another month in the same group before
they partake of the provision brought with them.
This provision consists in the flesh of birds and
turtles, which they first bake, and then dry in the
sun. The use of salt is unknown at Radack.

Tiie marriages, the funerals, the feasts upon
se\eral occasions seem to have no reference to re-
hgion. We were not happy enough to come to
an understanding with Kadu respecting an ex-
istence after death.

riioiigh no particular marks of respect are shown
lo (he chiefs, they, however, exercise an .arbitrary
rigljt over all property. We, ourselves, even saw
chief's, to whom we had made presents, conceal

* lui txai iple, the belief in meiUcine, the labt thing to wliieh
iiKicilulity alill ehngb.

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170

UEMAUKS AM) OPINIONS.

our gifts from the more powerful. They appear
to be subordinate to each other in several degrees,
without our being able rightly to understand their
respective relations. Rarick was the most con-
siderable in Otdia; his father Saur-aur, perhaps tlu'
real chief of the group, lived at Aur. Rarick ami
his son, a boy about ten years old, alone wore
several stripes of pandanus leaves, in which knots
were made, round the neck ; and it seems to be a
privilege. We have seen similar strips hanging in
the houses of the chiefs, which, with dried fish-
heads, unripe cocoa, and stones, have the appear-
ance of consecrated objects. The succession is
not direct from father to son, but from the elder
brotlier to the yoiniger, till after the decease of all,
the first born son of the elder brother succeeds.
Women are excluded. When a chief approaclits
an island a signal is given from his boat, and his
wants are immediately supplied with the best thai
is to be procured. This signal is given by the
person who is in the fore part of the ship, b)
raising his right arm, and calling. This was also
observed when the oflScers of the expedition sailed
in the boats of the natives. The chiefs are dis-
tinguished by freer motion in their gait, which the
common man is not allowed to imitate.

The princes call their people together for war.
The chief of each group joins the squadron with
his boats. They uuilcrtako to surprise an enciiiv'^

h I

n.VDACK AND OTHEIIISLANDS.

171

group with combined force, and land. They never
fight but on shore. The women take a share in
the war, not only to defend their own country
against the enemy, but also to attack ; and in the
squadron they form, though in smaller numbers, a
part of the military force. The men stand fore-
most in the battle. Their weapons for distant
combat are the sling, in the use of which they are
not skilful, and a staff, pointed at both ends, which
being thrown in the arc of a circle, turns round
upon its centre, like the diameter of a wheel in
motion, and penetrates with the end on which it
falls. For close combat the dart, a stick of five
feet in length, which is pointed, and furnished with
shark's teeth or barbs. We saw only at Mesid a
short crooked wooden sword, both sides of which
were provided with shark's teeth. The women,
unarmed, form a second line : some of them beat
the drum, according to the word of command,
first in slow and regular time (Ringesipifieni),
when the combatants, at a distance, exchange dart
for tlart, then in double quick time (Pinneneme),
when they are engaged in close combat. The
women throw stones merely with the hand : they
assist their lovers in the contest, and throw them-
selves as deliverers and peace-makers between
them and the vanquished enemy. The female
prisoners are well treated : men are not made pri-
soners. The man adopts the name of the enemy

('■'■•I

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IlKiMAUKS AND oriNIONS.

ti;

,

whom he has killed in battle. Conquered islaiuls
are robbed of all their fruit, but the trees arc
spared.

Marriages depend on a free convention, and
may be dissolved as they are concluded. A man
may have several wives. The woman is the com-
panion of the man, and seems freely and volun-
tarily to submit to him, in a just relation to the
head of the family. In their wanderings the men
go on before, as protectors, and the women follow.
When any subject is discussed, the men speak first :
the women, when called upon, take a share in the
conversation, and attention is paid to them. In
the time of peace they have no other employment
than what we call women's work. The drum,
which awakens delight in all, is in their hands.
Unmarried women enjoy their i'reedom, under tlie
protection of decorum. Tiie girl requires presents
from the man ; but the veil of modesty is drawn
over all the connections which unite the two sexes.
We observed that the customary caress by touch-
ing the noses, even among men in the Carolina
islands, as well as in those of the Eastern Polynesia,
was usual at Radack only between man and wife,
and in the shade where familiarity is concealed.

The bond of exclusive friendship between two
men, which is found in all the islands of the first
province in Radack, obliges the friend to give his
wife to his friend, but does not bind him to seek
lor revenge by blood.

RADACK AND OTHF.R ISLANDS.

1 7. '5

We mention with hesitation and abhorrence a
law, the reason for which Kadu ascribed to urgent
want, and the steriUty of the niggardly earth.
Every niotlier is allowed to bring up only three
children ; her fourth and every succeeding one she
is obliged to bury alive herself. The families of
the chiefs are not subjected to this barbarity.
Natm.l chikh'en are brought up in the same man-
ner as the legitimate. When they iire able to walk,
the father takes them to himself. When no father
recognizes the child, the mother keeps it : when
the mother dies, another woman takes care of the
child.

The corpses of the deceased arc entirely wound
round with strings, in a sitting posture. The
ciiiors are buried on the islands. A large square
space, surrounded with large stones, marks the
place, under palms, on the inner shore. Those of
the people are thrown into the sea. They treat in
the same manner their enemies fallen in battle,
according to their rank. A staf!' fixed in the
ground, with annular incisions, marks the grave of
the children who were not allowed to live. We
have ourselves seen both kinds of graves.

A long time ago, an European ship was seen at
Kawen, and remained a day in the neighbourhood
of this group, without attempting to land. The
chiefi Saur-aur, our iiospitable friend at Tabual,
went on board this ship. (W^e observe that his

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17^

nKMARKS AND OPINIONS.

i.'

name was at that time Laelidjii, he having since
received his present name by an amicable change
with a chief of the island chain of Ralick, who is
now called Laelidjii, after him.) The natives pro-
cured, in exchange, iron and pieces of broken glass
from this ship.* Kadu possessed himself of two of
these pieces when he was at Aur, and recollected
them on seeing some similar pieces among us, which
he collected for his friends. No song has preserved
the name of this ship ; no names are snatched
from oblivion.

We are the first Europeans who Imve landed at
Radack and become acquainted with these amiable
people. From principle and from inclination, from
real sincere love, we endeavoured to neglect
nothing that we could do for this people. On our
first visit we put our friends in Otdia in possession
of hogs, goats, and tame fowls : yams were planted,
and melons and water-melons had sprimg up, and
throve well. On oui* return, after a few months,
we found the place of the garden in the island of
Otdia waste and desolate ; not even a foreigii
weed remained to testify our good intention. The
hogs had died of thirst, the fowls v/ere not to be
found ; Prince Lamary had carried the goats to
Aur, and had also transplanted there, from t)ie
May he, the benefactor of an amiable people,

♦ Wood may be scraped with pieces of glass ; and they use
them ahiiost as we do the plane. They have n real value.

^■1

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KADACK AND OTHER ISLANDS.

r/5

island of Otdia, the yams, wliich alone liail csca))ed
the hostile rats. The old chief, Laergasz, had dis-
covered some yams planted by us on an island
under his dominion. He found this root well-
tasted, and, after he had eaten it, carefully replanted
tlie leaves. This process, which is observed in the
cultivation of the taro, had deceived his expect-
ations, v^ • •■ ,

The proper object of our second visit was to be
beneficial to our friends. We brought them goats,
hogs, dogs, cats, tame fowls, potatoes from the
Sandwich islands (^Ipomoea tuberosa. Lour. Coch,),
the melon, the water- melon, gourds of different
kinds, those of which the fruit is used for valuable
vessels, and others of which the fruit is eaten ; the
sugar-cane, the grape, the pine-apple, the aj)ple-
tree ol' the Sandwich islands (not an Eugenia),
tiie tea- root (Dracaena terminalis)^ the lemon-tree,
and tlie seeds of several useful plants on the Sand-
wich islands ; the Akurites triloba, the nuts of
wliicij are used as tapers, and produce oil and stuff
for (lying ; two of the shrubs, the bast of which
serves to manufacture stuffs, &c.

We have carefully sowed the seeds which our
friend Kadu has undertaken to attend to.

May Kadu proceed in his dnQ vocation with
wisdom and energy ! May he succeed in effecting
what, without him, could not be hoped ! May his
};()od heart produce the good which he wishes !

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REMARKS AVI) OPINIONS.

establish its prosperity, conduct it peaceably aiul
liberally to a better situation, and soon induce it to
renounce a law revolting to nature, which was
founded only in necessity !

We must confess that our friend stands alone
exposed to the envy of his equals, the avidity ami
power of his princes, and the treasures which our
love has heaped upon him, may gather the tempest
over his head. But our apprehension can go still
farther : the real treasure in iron, which we lavished
with pleasure upon Radack, may kindle a destriic-
tive war between the south and the north of this
chain, between it and Ralick, and blood be the fniit
of our liberality.

The poor and dangerous reefs of Radack ha\'e
nothing to attract the Europeans, and we congra-
tulate oiu* simple friends on remaining in their
obscurity. The amiableness of their manners, the
charming modesty which adorns them, are blossoms
of nature, which are not derived from any abstract
idea of virtue. Thoy would show themselves equally
docile to our vices ; and, as the victims of our pas-
sions, would draw down upon them our contempt.

Ralick, near to Radack, in the west, is a similar
chain of low groups of islands, with the geogra])hy
of which even the women in Radack are familiar.
Ralick is more fertile and populous than Radack.
The people, the language, the tattooing are the
same. No children are murdered ; the women do
not accompany them into war. The people arc

N|l

UADACK AND OTHER ISLANDS.

177

more prosperous and better fed than those of Ra-
(lack : they wear a still larger ornament in their
ears. Several men are mentioned by name, who
were able to draw the extended ear-holes over
their head. ' , -, r . ■

Between the two island-chains, hostile and ami-
cable relations take place. A chief of Eilu showed
us the scars of wounds he had received at Ralick.
Ralick employed fifty boats in a war against Ra-
ilack ; the chiefs of Radack went over, and a
iriendly intercourse was again established.

A European ship once came to Ralick. Tlie
shij) is said to have remained at anchor in Odja (a
cliief group in this chain) for a long time (a year
it was said.)

We suppose that likewise at Ralick the southern
groups are the richest. Bananas roots, &c. are not
found on all the groups.

Repith-Urur is represented to us as a consider-
able group of low islands, known to the inhabit-
ants of Radack by the many boats cast on their
reefs from that group. The boats and costume of
the people of Repith-Urur are the same as in Ra-
dack. The language is peculiar j the tattooing is
different : it extends over the sides of the body,
and is spread over the exterior part of the thighs
and legs. There are no domestic animals there :
the bread-fruit, the cocoa, the banana-roots, and,
as at Radack, the fruit of the pandanus ser\'e
lor their food.

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

Tlie natives of Repith-Urur live in constant
wars among each other. The man always lias his
arms about him, and, when he sits down to his
meals, he lays one lance on his right, and another
on his lefb Human flesh is eaten at Repith-Urur.

A long time ago, a boat, with five men from Re-
pith-Urur, came on the island of Relick, of the
Ralick chain. They fished, but caught nothing.
There was no want of fruit. They killed one of
their number, baked, and ate him. A second was
butchered, and devoured in the same manner.
Tlie inhabitants of Relick overpowered them, ami
killed the three thi^t remained.

In the island of Airick, of the Kawen group,
there live a man and a woman ; on the group of
Arno, two men and one woman, from Repith-
Urur, who were cast in boats on Radack. A
second woman, whom the latter had with them,
died of thirst at sea during their long wander-
ing. These five people were still in Radack on
Kadu's arrival there. AVhile he was there, two
boats from Repith-Urur arrived at the group of
Aur, where he was at the time, in each of which
there was a man and woman ; they said they had
been nine months at sea, and had lived five months
on fish, and without fresh water. The natives of
Radack wished to take up arms against these can-
nibals. The chiefs protected the strangers ; a
chief of Tabual received a man and a woman, and
a chief of Aur the others.

RADACK AND OTHER ISLANDS.

170

Bogha is the name of an inconsiderable, low
group of islands, with which the Radackers be-
came acquainted by the following circumstance.
A woman of Bogha was washed away by the tide,
as she was drawing a load of cocoa along the reef
from one island of this group to another. Her
cocoa served her for a raft, and bore her up ; she
was driven by the wind and current past Bygar,
and, on the fifth day, was thrown upon Udirick.
This woman is still living in the island of Tabual,
of the group of Aur. Bogha, in its remote situ-
ation, appears to us to be tlie seat of a forgotten
colony from Radack, the language of which is
spoken there.

The islands seen by Captain Johnstone in the
frigate Cornwallis, in the year I8O7, in the north-
east of Radack, and for which we looked, (the
same, according to Krusenstern's Contributions to
Hydrography, p. 114, No. 24, p. 19, as seen by Fer-
dinand Quintana, in the ship Maria, 179^, and the
Nassau fleet in 1625, as also the Gaspar-rico of the
ancient charts,) form a low sickle-shaped group of
inconsiderable circumference, the convex side of
which is turned to the leeward. Only on the
windward side mould has collected on the reef. It
rises mostly naked out of the waves under the lee,
and at its entrance sinks into the inner sea. The
islands form a very close row ; the vegetation ap-
pears to be poor ; and the cocoa-tree is nowhere
seen to rise above the rest.

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

The desert appearance of this group, and the num.
bar of sea-birds, and frigate-birds, which swarmed
round us near it, and which darted at the red
streamer of our ship, as at prey, convinced us that
they were really uninhabited ; and we cannot agree
with our friend Kadu, who wished to recognize
Bogha in them. The north-east monsoon, and the
strong westerly current which we expenenced in
the passage from Udirick thither, as it may be con-
stantly expected in these seas, connected with the
story of the woman in Tabual, indicate a more
easterly situation for the group Bogha. Perhaps
it ought to be looked for to the east of the direc-
tion pointed OT^t by Udirick and Bygar at a smaller
distance from Kadack.

That the cocoa trees in Bogha are but low, and
the people possess no boats, perhaps passed from
the preconceived opinion of our friend, that the
islands before him were Bogha, into his descrip-
tion of this gioup, of which he first began to speak

on this occasion.

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/, THE CAROLINE ISLANDS;

The ingenious Pedro Fernandez de Quiros, in
1605, was for looking to the south for the mother of
so many islands (en demanda de la madre de tiantas
islas) which had already then been discovered in
the Great Ocean» We have found this mother in the
continent, to the east of which they are situated,
as the sea-fowl are met with to windward of the
rocks, which are their native country,, whether
they return to their nests- every evening with, the
setting sun^

This image, which is particularly applicable to
the islands of the first province, forced itself
again upon us, as we returned, from the distant
Radack, in the east, to the western Carolinas ;
from the strayed child to the children in the mo-
ther's lap. A more bountiful nature receives us,
and the same people, with the same amiableness,
are more cultivated.. " '

The seas in which the Carolinas are situated,
are subject to violent storms, which mostly mark
the change of the monsoon. These hurricanes,,
winch the Spaniards on the Philippine and Marian
islands call by the Tagalese name Bagyo, some-
times destroy all the fruits on the low islands, so
that the inliabitants are compelled to subsist for a

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

Jong time only by the fishery. They endanger
the islands themselves, against which they raise the
sea. Kadu, at Mogemug, witnessed a hurricane,
during which the sea washed away an island, which
was indeed uninhabited, but covered with cocoa-
palms and bread-fruit trees. ' '^ iiJCi' v-ii: i, '

Captain Wilson gives us a view of the nature of
the Pelew islands, and of their productions. Eap,
the other high land to the west of the Carolinas,
appears to us, though it is without high peaks, as
the seat of volcanic powers. Earthquakes are fre-
quent and violent, and even the slightly built habi-
tations of the natives are overthrown by them.
When the earth trembles at Ulea, the coral reefs of
Mogemug and Ulea are shaken, though with less
violence. Kadu has not heard that the same hap-
pens at Feis. According to his observation, the
nights are much cooler at Eap than at Ulea,
though the days are equally warm. Eap produces
whet-stones, which the low easterly islands obtain
from thence. They are a kinder gift of nature
than the silver, which Cantova, on the testimony
of the native, Cayal, ascribes to this island. Kadu
has explained to us this tradition. A white stone
is found in the mountains of Eap, to which the
chiefs have an exclusive right; their seats of honour
are made of it. One block forms the seat, and
another the back. Kadu has seen this stone ; it is
neither silver nor metal. A yellow stone has the
same honour in Pelli (the Pelew islands).

17

THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

183

We may remember, in Wilson's voyage, the seat
of a chief carried away as a military trophy. A sort
of potters* clay is used at Eap as well as Pelli,
where they make longish vessels of it. This art
cannot exist in the low islands without the ma-
terial/ ' -• '•' ' ■ " ■■''*

The several useful palms of the Philippines
(Palma brava, Palma de Cabello negrOj') which are
mentioned among the plants of the Pelew islands,
allow us to judge of the richness of their Flora.
Eap enjoys, with Pelew, the advantage of a high
land. We find among the productions of Eap the
areca-palm (^Areca catheca), the bamboo, and three
species of trees growing in the mountains, with
the wood of which they build their boats, for which
the lower islands only use the bread-fruit tree; the
Aleurites triloba, the clove-tree, {Caryophyllus aro-
matlcus,) which is not only not esteemed but de-
spised, and also two other trees, which are useless,
and of a bitter taste, and serve as a comparison for
wliat is bad and ugly ; the orange-tree, the sugar-
cane, and, lastly, the curcuma, which it is true
occurs at Ulea and the other low islands, but in
greater abundance at Eap. Kadu recognized,
in the Sandwich islands, and among the seeds,
which were thrown on the reef of Radack, many
that were partly native at Eap, and partly in the
low islands of the Carolinas. Feis has, of all the
islands, the richest soil, and the most luxuriant
Flora. The bamboo, which, on account of its

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

mamifold uses, was transplanted there from Eap,
thrives well. The other groups of islands procure
what they want from Eap. Ulea and similar
low islands of these seas produce many kinds of
plants that are not at Radack^ and nature is far
more bountiful to them. Don Luis de Torres
has even brought plants from Ulea to Guahon,
which were foreign to the Flora of that high
country. ' , » > ..

All these islands are rich in bread fruit-trees,
roots, and banana. The inhabitants of the low
islands seem principally to subsist on the bread-
fruit tree, many kinds of which, bearing large fruit,
are cultivated under different names. On the high
islands, the roots are the chief support of the
people. The sweet potatoe (Camotes*) which,
together with the seeds of other useful plants,
Cayal, three of his brothers, and his father, Corr,
brought back to Eap from the Bisayas, (Philippine
islands,) whither they had been driven, spread
from thence lo other islands (see Cantova) j but, ac-
cording to Kadu, it does not grow at Ulea. The
roots of the arum species attain to perfection only
on high land, and likewise in Feis. In the Pelew
islands t different varieties of one kind are culti-

• The Spaniards call the sweet roots Camotes, and they seem
to have borrowed this word from the language of the Philip-
pines. The Camote of the Tagalese and Bisayas was cultivated
on these islands before the conquest.

t In the account of the Pelew Islands, there is every where
yams, i. e. Dioscoreoy by mistake, for taro, or arum. Lin.

THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

185

vated, some ofwhich attain to an extraordinary size.
The pandanus grows on all the Carolinas, where,
however, the fruit is neither eaten, nor even used
for an ornament. None of the iniproved kinds are
found there. The agriculture of Eap must be ad-
mirable. Swimming plantations of arum are there
ingeniously constructed on rafts of bamboo and
wood on the water. /. r ; m . ; i

The Plantain is not cultivated so much for its
fruit as for its fibres, of which the women weave
or braid a pretty stuff, resembling mats. The
pieces of this stuff are in the shape of Turkish
shawls, three quarters of a yard broad, and several
yards long. Black threads woven between, form
an elegant pattern on both ends, and these threads
hang down as fringes. This stuff is sometimes
dyed with curcuma. It is described, in the Voyage
of Captain James Wilson, in the Duff, who, in 1797»
had intercourse with the islanders of the province
of Ulea, where the art of making it is ascribed,
without any reason, to the instruction of the
Spanish missionaries.* According to Kadu, the
banana-plants are mostly cut down before they bear
fruit, for the sake of the fibres.

Another plant, a Malvacea, furnishes a bast,

* We can easily conceive, that the inhabitants ask for iron
by the name by which Luito, nine years before, obtained much
from the Europeans at Guahon {Lutu, Chamori, for Parang,
Ulea). But we do not comprehend how it happens, that the
numbers given are of no dialect of this sea known to us. Wc
recognize only the general roots of the language.

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

which is likewise used in some islands for similar
stuffs.*

The paper-mulberry-tree, and the bast-stuff's of
Owhyee, were equally unknown to Kadu.t Tiie
curcuma-root, which is rasped to a powder, forms
a considerable branch of the trade of Eap. The
custom of dyeing the skin with this powder, is
general, from Tuch in the east, to Pelli in the west,
but is not prevalent in the groups to the south-
west of the Pelew islands, neither did it prevail in
the Mariana islands. The women always ornament
themselves in this manner, and the men only on holi-
days, or in war, for battle ; and thus too the bodies
of the dead are adorned. The custom of chewing
the betel, and of dying the teeth black, is exclu-
sively confined to Pelli, Ngoli, Eap, and the Ma-
riana islands, where it formerly also prevailed. It
is only in the Pelew islands that a sweet syrup is
obtained from the cocoa-palm. The drinking of
kava, and the use of salt, are equally unknown in
these islands, hs.t 'jiv- o; ^t'lOfr.'^i Y^ji ^-'WJofiii,.'

* A passage in Cantova's letter confirms us in the conjecture,
that the sterile banana, which is only cultivated in the Philip-
pines on account of the flax, also grows in the Carolinas.
" Mettre en oeuvre une esp^ce de Plane sauvage et un autre
arbre qui s'appelle Balibago pour en faire de la toile."

f A passage in Pigafetta might lead us to conjecture, that
the little apron which the women wore in the Mariana islands,
was of stuff made of bast. " Toile ou plutot dcorce mince
comnie du papier que I'on tire de I'aubier du palmier." — Page
61. of the French edition, s,

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THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

187

No domestic animals are to be found on the
islands of the first province of the Great Ocean,
except those which are brought by Europeans.
We leave it to Wilson to speak of the Pelew islands*
According to Kadu, a very considerable time ago,
a large ship had come to Mogemug, which had
left some cats there. The species of this animal
has extended from Mogemug to the west as far as
Pelli, and to Ulea in the east. They are called in
these islands by the Spanish name Gato. The
people of £ap and Ulea, and Kadu himself,
learnt, from a very old man at Mogemug, to count
from one to ten in the language of these strangers.
So far, in fact, he counts in the Spanish language
with fluency, and correct pronunciation. He has
likewise seen, at Mogemug, two large earthen ves-
sels, (three or four feet high), which were left
there by that ship. We have traced no other
memorial of the mission of Cantova to Mogemug.
Kadu heard nothing of the cannon left at the
island of Falalep.*

The Trichechus dugong is found in the waters
of the Pelew islands, as in these of the Philippine
islands. ''^*' ^''="'"-' •'•■ '^' '■f' -'- -"

Cantova mentions the chase of the whale by the
inliabitants of the low islands. Perhaps what he re-
lates might be understood of the dolphin fishery.

* Caschattel, lord of Mogemug at the time of the letters of
Cantova, was known by name to Kadu, as a long deceased chief
of this group.

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

I

There are three kinds of dolphins in these seas, with
a white, red, and black belly. As soon as any of these
animals are observed from Ulea, small boats, to
about the number of eighty^ put out to sea, surround
the herd, drive it on the shore, and, when they have
approached it near enougli^ they pelt the animals
with stones till they have thrown themselves on
shore. In this manner they catch great numbers
of them. Their flesh is considered a great delicacy.
In the cutting up, particular rules have to be
observed. A wrong cut causes the animal to keep
from the island for a certain time. At Svilick,
where the reef has only a narrow entrance, these
animals are driven into the lagoon, and none of
them are killed until a certain number (about fifty)
are caught. This chase is executed on the islands
belonging to Ulea, with particular success. In the
others the art is not so well understood. The dol-
phins sometimes ascend the rivers of Eap, when
the inhabitants intercept their return with nets,
and harpoon them. *

The domestic fowl is met with on all the Caro-
line islands, though the inhabitants do not under-
stand how to derive any particular advantage from
it. Against the account of Cantova, who reports
to us what he heard himself from the natives of
Eap, that a kind of crocodile is worshipped, or

* The inhabitants of Eap have large nets for fishing, which
are not, and perhaps could not, be used on the low islands.

THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

189

lionoured there, we must quote expressly the tes-
timony of Kadu.

In Pelli (the Pelew islands) is a sort of crocodile
called Ga-ut, ( Ye-me according to Wilson.) The
Ga-ut lives always in the water, and has a flat tail.
The sound, resembling the voices of children, which,
this dangerous animal utters, may deceive persons
who are ignorant of it. The Ga-ut of Pelli is not
found at Eap. It was only once that one of them
was seen there, and was killed, after it had de-
voured a woman.

A large species of lizard, called Kaluv, is found
on the islands of Pelli and Eap exclusively, and is
expressly stated not to be found at Feis. The
Kaluv is much smaller than the Ga-ut, and its tail
is round. It goes indeed into the water, where it
may be dangerous to man, and eats fish, but it lives
more frequently on shore, and crawls on the trees,
where it sleeps during the day. Kadu recognized
the Kaluv in the figure of the Lacerta Monitor,
which Sonnini and Latreille give in the " Suites a
Buffon ;" the flesh of this animal is considered as
poisonous at Eap, and is not eaten. The natives
think it would occasion death, but they kill the
animal whenever they can. Bocle, the adopted son
of the chief and priest of the territory ofKattepar,
and his companions (perhaps Europeans) ate the
flesh without fear and without bad consequences.

Among the insects of Eap which are not found
in other islands, Kadu mentions a very large scor-

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190

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

pion, the sting of which, said to be mortal, is cured
by the juice of herbs; and a small species of Xfl'w-
pyris, which is only met with in some districts.
The flea was entirely unknown to Kadu till he
came to us. ' "

Iron of wrecked ships, which are thrown on
sliore at Ulea, Eap, and other islands, is more
abundant than at Radack. None is said to be
found to the south-west of Pelli. Drift wood is
every where neglected. ,»■

Cantova mentions a mixture of different races of
men in theCarolinas, respecting which our accounts
are silent. It is possible that some Papuas of the
southern countries may, by accident, have reached
these islands, and some Europeans, Martin Lopez
and his companions, or others, in different ways, as
has since frequently been the case. But the race
of the natives, is that which has spread over all the
islands of the Great Ocean. Their hair seems to
be more curly than that of the inhabitants of Ra-
dack. They let it grow long, and place a particu-
lar value on this natural ornament. It is only at
Eap that that of the children is cut.
' According to Kadu's observations, the inhabit-
ants of the territory Summagi, in Eap, are of re-
markably short stature. Deformities and natural
defects are uncommonly frequent in that island.
He once mentioned, as an example, a man without
arms, whose head was uncommonly large j another
without hands ; another without thumbs ; a person

THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

191

with only one leg, instances of hare lips, and of
persons deaf and dumb. • Even less remarkable
cases are much more rare in other islands. A sick-
ness, which the Europeans have spread in most of
the islands of the South Sea; seems, according to
Kadu, not to be quite unknown at Ulea.

The inhabitants of the Carolinas in general are
fatter and stouter than those of Radack. Tattooing
is every where arbitrary, and has no reference to
religious faith: the chiefs are not more tattooed than
the common people. A piece of banana stuff, worn
almost like the maro of Owhyee and Otaheite, is
the usual dress, and only at Pelli the men are en-
tirely naked, as was also formerly the case in the
Mariana islands. The ear ornaments of the inhabi-
tants of Radack are not worn at Pelli. The gristle
of the nose is pierced through for putting sweet-
scented flowers in. The bracelet, made of the
bones of the Trichecus dugong, which the chiefs of
the Pelew islands wear, is described by Captain
Wilson. The chiefs at Eap wear a similar broad
bracelet made of a shell polished.

The houses are every where large, and closed.
You can come in at the door without stooping.
Paved foot-paths, and square yards are before the
houses at Eap, as in the Pelew islands, where we
have been made acquainted with them by Captain
Wilson. *..^... -. ...J:! ^..,:

* Kadu also saw at Eap a monstrous Kaluv, that had two
tails, and two tongues. > ; ?> :;;**;•

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

We must first of all contemplate this courageous
seafaring people in their boats. ;.. . i

Tiie boats of Nugor and Tuch, the inhabitants
of which are dirtinguished by a distinct language,
and those of the lower islands as far as Ulea, Feis,
and Mogemug, which speak the same language, are,
according to Kadu, of the same construction as the
boats of Ulea. The inhnbitants of Savonnemusoch,
between Nugor and Tuch, who speak another
language, do not undertake long voyages, and
probably have other boats. The comparison which
Cantova has made between the boats of the Caro-
linas and those of the Marianas, enables us to judge
what these were. The boats of the Marianas
were similar to those of Ulea, which are, however,
preferable, and better sailers.* i ' i • J'

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• The two boats which Cantova observed, were overtaken
by the west wind, with four others, when on their voyage
from Fatoilep to Ulea, and dispersed. Most of the people were
natives of those two groups, and we take it for granted
that their boats were of those islands. The first large boat, in
which were four-and>twenty men, had three cabins, and on
account of its remarkableness was particularly described;
namely, *• Une barque etrangere peu differente des barques
Marianoises, mais plus haute ;" the other, smaller one, " Une
barque 6trangdre quoique semblable a celle des iles Marianes."
He says further, when the distance of the islands from each
other is to be estimated, " J'ai fait attention h la construction
de leurs barques qui n'ont pas la l^geretg de celles des
Marianes ;" and we believe that we have shown, in another place,
where there was no other standard, that the distances were
still assumed too great, Ulea is even placed at a less distance
from Guahon, probably on account of the false determination
of the situation of Fatoilep, by Jean Rodriguez, in 1G9C,
on whom Cantova relied.

THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

193

Tho construction of the boats at Eap and Ngoli,
differs but little from that of Ulea. But the natives
of Eap are very fond of using the boats of Ulea,
which they procure in the way of trade. Pelli has
a construction of its own ; and the low islands, to
the S.E. of Pelli, have, again, another. Pelli, and
these islands, are inferior in the art of navigation ;
and their boats do not visit the eastern islands.

The natives of Ulea, and of the islands in its
vicinity, are the most skilful navigators ; and Can-
tova also considers them as being more civilized
than the others. * The main-spring of navigation
is trade. The principal articles of trade are iron,
boats, stuffs, and Curcuma powder. We have
spoken, in another place, of the trade with Guahon,
where the people of Ulea principally sell boats for
iron. Those of Feis, Eap, and Mogemug go to
Ulea to purchase boats, in exchange for Curcuma
powder. Those of the eastern islands, which have
bread-fruit trees in abundance, build all their boats
themselves ; and those of Nugor and Tuch barter
stuffs at Ulea for iron.'^ Those of Ulea go to Tuch
and Nugor; and those of Savonnemusoch are
visited in these voyages, but do not visit any other
islands. In Pelli, the iron which the Europeans
bring there is exchanged for Curcuma. On the
south-western groups of islands they exchange stuffs

* Les habitants de I'isle d'Ulea et des isles voisines in'ont
paru plus civilises et plus raisonnables que les uutres. '

VOL. Ill, O

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

for iron, of which they ate in want. A squadron
of ten sail, five from Mogemug, and five from
Eap, performed this vOyage ; and Kadii was per-
sonally acquainted with the seamen at Eap.

They are guided in their voyages by the starry
firmament, which they divide into constellations,
giving each its particular name. *

They seem to observe, in every voyage, the
rising or setting of another constellation. A mis-
understood expression of Cantova has caused the
knowledge of the magnetic needle to be ascribed
to them, t Cantova means only the division of
the horizon into twelve points, which we have
given with other denominations of the rhumbs and
winds, in our vocabulary, after Don Luis de
Torres, and Kadu. The steersman of a boat lays,
according to D. Luis, a piece of wood, a little stick,
fiat before him, and considers himself guided by
this, as we by the compass. It seems probable to
us, that this stick, placed in the moment of obser-
vation, in the seas, where the winds are constant,
may serve to represent to 'them the way they have
to keep, with respect to the wind.

They count the days and months on the Caroline
islands, and divide the year into seasons, according
to the disappearing and re-appearing of the con.
stellations ; but nobody counts the years. What

* According to Cantova they learn astronomy : " Le mnitre
a une sphere, o{i sont traces les principaux astres."

f lis se servcnt d'une bousHolc qui a douzc aires dc vent.

THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

19.5

is past, is past. The song records the names
which are worth preservation, and the multitude
float carelessly with the stream. * r , , ,

Kadu knew as little about his own age, as any
of the islanders of the Eastern Polynesia. The life
of these islanders, thoughtless, resolute, and only
belonging to the moment, are free from many of
the torments which undermine ours. When we
told Kadu of the suicides among us, he thought
he had heard wrong, and it appeared to him the
most ridiculous thing we had ever told him. But
they are, and for the same reason, impatient
under foreign deliberate oppression ; and history
records in her annals, the suicide of the Marians,
under the Spaniards, (the messengers of the
Gospel?) , , ; ., ;.

In all the Caroline islands, only invisible, hea-
venly divinities are believed. Nowhere do they
make the figures of gods; nowhere adore man's
works, or corporeal things. Kadu knew very little
of the theosophy of his people. What we here
relate after him, leaves many things to be wished
for, and, perhaps, needs correction. We have
thought, that we must translate, by the word God,
his word Tautup, (^Tahutup, C.) and Jageach, at
Radack. According to Cantova, the Tahutup are
departed souls, which are considered as guardian
genii.

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* " Carpc dien."
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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

The god (Tautup) of Ulea, Mogemug, Eap,
and Ngoli, is called Engalap ; of Feis, Rongala ;
of Elath and Lamureck, Fuss; and of the desert
island, F^o, Lage. ' i «i; -^rx iji

Is Engalap, the Eliulep of Cantova, Aluelap of
Don Luis de Torres, the great God? ^

No man ever saw Engalap. The fathers have
delivered the knowledge of him to their children.
He visits distant islands where he is acknowledged.
The time of his presence seems to be the season of
fertility. He is united to Rongala, god of Feis,
by ties of friendship; and they hospitably visit
each other. He seems to have no connection
with Fuss, the god of Lamureck. At Ulea, and the
more easterly islands, {Lamureck^ &c.) there are
neither temples nor priests ; and no sacred offerings
take place. There are several temples built at Mo-
gemug, Eap, and Ngoli; offerings are made there,
and they have a religious worship.

Kadu has informed us, how it was at Eap, where
he had lived for a considerable time, and affirms
that it is the same in the two next groups. Both
sexes have different temples, and different times
for offering. No man is present at the offering of
the women. At the offerings of the men, the
chief acts the part of the offering-priest. He con-
secrates to the god -a fruit of each kind, and a
fish, by holding it up, and by invocation. The
formula is, Wareganam gure Tautup^ the people
repeating tae ast word. The offered fruits are

THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

197

not eaten, but deposited in the temple. To pre-
pare for these offerings, the people remain assem-
bled, and without communication, for a month in
the temple, where their food is handed to them
from without. Every one consecrates the first
piece of all the fruit and fish which he eats during
the time, in the above manner, and then throws
it away, without having tasted it. Neither songs
nor dances take place in the temple. This solem-
nity is alternately for one month in one territory,
and on the following in another. Kadu, being a
stranger, did not attend the solemnities in the
temples. He never went into them. Access to
the temple is forbidden to every one, out of the
time of offering, except to the chief or priest,
(MatamaL)

Rongala has no temples at Feis. But there are
times at which he descends on the island, and is
invisibly present in the wood. At that time, the
people are not allowed to speak or tread loud;
they then approach the forest, dyed with Cur-
cuma, and adorned as for a festival.

We will communicate faithfully, and in detail,
the mythology of Ulea, according to Don Luis de
Torres. Cantova, whom we beg to be allowed to
compare here, relates the descent of the gods,
almost in the same manner, and a little more cir-
cumstantially. The pleasing fable of Olifat is
entirely new. ,. ; ,' i

Tluee persons arc worshipped in houven, Ahielap,

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

Lugeleng, and Olifat. The origin of all things
is, however, as follows : before all time, there was
a goddess, called Ligopup. She is regarded as
the creator of the world. * She bore Aluelap, the
lord of all knowledge, the lord of glory, the father
of Lugeleng. t But it is not known who was
Lugeleng's mother, or any thing respecting his
birth. Lugeleng had two wives, the one in heaven,
the other on earth. The heavenly one was named
Hamulul, the earthly one Tarisso, who equalled
the first in beauty, and other natural gifts.

Tarisso bore Olifat t from her brains, after a four
days* pregnancy. Olifat ran away as soon as he
was born, and he was followed to cleanse him from
the blood : but he said, he would rather do it
himself, and would not allow any body to touch
him. He cleansed himself on the trunks of the
palm trees, past which he ran ; for which reason
they have retained their reddish colour. They
called to him, and followed him, to cut off the navel-

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* According to Cantova, Ligopund, sister and not mother to
Eliulep (Aluelap, T.) creatress of man. The first of gods
are, however, Sabucur, and his wife Halmelul, the parents of
Eliulep and Ligopund.

f Lugueileng, according to Cantova, who calls his mother
Leteuhieul, born at Ulea.

X Oulefat, Cant.— He does not name the wives of Luguei-
leng, but makes the terrestrial mother of Oulefat to be born in
the island of Falalu, in the province of Hogoleu. This island
is not known to Kadu ; it is called Felalu on the chart of Don
Luis de Torres.

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TH£ CAROLINE ISLANDS.

199

string, but he bit it off himself j he said he would
take care of himself, and would not suffer a mortal
to touch him. He recollected that it was cus-
tomary to give to new-born infants the milk of
a young cocoa-nut to drink, and came to his
mother, who gave him a cocoa to drink. He drank,
and turned his eyes towards heaven, where he per-
ceived his father Lugelang, who called to him. He
then followed the call of his father, with his mother.
Both, therefore, left the world. When Olifat ar-
rived in heaven, he met there several children, who
were playing with a shark, round the tail of which
they had tied a string. To remain unknown, he
pretended to be leprous. The children thereupon
kept at a distance, and would not touch him. He
asked them for the fish to play with, but they refused
him. One of them, however, had compassion and
gave him the string to which the fish was fastened.
He played with it for a short time, and then re-
turned it to the children, desiring them not to be
afraid, but to continue playing, the fish would do
them no harm. He, however, bit all of them, ex-
cept the one who had been kind to Olifat. Olifat
had cursed the shark, which before had no teetb^
and was harmless. He then went through heaven
cursing all creatures, on similar occasions, because
he was provoked in the glory. As nobody knew
him, and he had not yet come to his father, who
was alone able to recognize him, his life was
sought to be taken. He came to a place where a
large house was building *, he asked the workmen

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

for a knife, to assist in cutting cocoa-leaves for the
roof, but they refused him ; one, however, gave it
him and he cut a bundle of leaves, but he cursed
all the workmen except the one who had favoured
him, so that they were changed into immoveable
statues. Lugelen, however, the master of the
house, inquired for his workmen, and he was told
that they had been turned into immoveable statues.
By this Lugeleng and Aluelap knew that Olifat
was wandering about in heaven. They asked the
man who was still employed in cutting cocoa-leaves
for the house, whether he had not seen any thing
about, and he answered, that he had seen nothing
but a Canduru, (a kind of sand-snipe, into which
bird Olifat had changed himself.) They sent the
man to call the Canduru, but when he did it the
bird was frightened at the voice, and flew away.
The man reported it, and the gods asked him what
he had told the bird. He answered, he had told
him to come. They sent him again, and com-
manded him to order the bird to depart, because
he obstructed the chiefs. He immediately did so,
and the bird instantly came. He forbid him to go
farther, and to sit in the presence of the chiefs,
and the bird immediately did what he was for-
bidden. As soon as he was seated, Lugeleng com-
manded the workmen who had been petrefied in
the wood to be called together, and they soon
came, to the great astonishment of the spectators,
for Lugeleng and Aluelap alone knew that it
was Olifat. jv .i-- 'jn : • ;r = :r

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THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

201

The workmen now continued with the build-
ing, and dug deep holes in the ground to erect
the posts. This appeared a fortunate opportunity
for those who intended to kill Olifat, on account
of the much mischief which he caused. Olifat,
however, was acquainted with their intention, and
concealed about him some dyed earth, coals, and
the rib of a palm-leaf. He now digged in the hole,
and made a side opening to hide himself in it.
But they imagined that it was now time, threw
the post in, and mould round its foot, and thought
to squeeze him to death. But he took refuge in
the side opening, spit out the dyed earth, and
they thought it was his blood : he spit out the
coals, and they thought it was his gall. They now
imagined that he was dead. With the assistance
of the rib of the cacoa-leaf, Olifat made his way
through the middle of the post and escaped. He
laid himself as a beam directly across the post
from which he had come, and was not perceived.
When the day's work was over, the workmen sat
themselves down to their meal. Olifat sent an ant
to fetch him a piece of cocoa : the ant brought
him as much as it was able. By his power he en-
larged it to a whole nut. He then cried aloud :
" Take care below, I am going to break my cocoa-
nut." They recognized him by this exclamation,
and were much astonished that he was alive.
They considered him to be Alus, the evil spirit. *

* Nombre que dan al Diablo.

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

They still resolved to kill him, and told him that
he should only finish his meal ; they would after-
wards give him a commission. They sent him to
the house of Thunder to bring him his meal. Olifat
took a reed and went away. He came to the house
of thunder, and said imperiously and rudely, " I
have tired myself by bringing food for your mis-
shapen mouth." He gave him his meal, and went
away. The thunder intended to fall upon him,
but he concealed himself in his reed. The thunder
could not find him, and gave up his search. Olifat
came again forward, and created the greater
astonishment, as he came back afler this trial with-
out any hurt. The workmen again sent him out
to bring the meal to the fish Fela, • Olifat entered
the house of the fish Fela^ but as he was not at
home himself, he threw the meal to those who were
there, saying, " Take it for yourselves,'* and de-
parted. When the fish came home, he asked for
him who brought the meal. The family told him,
that somebodv had thrown the food to them, but
they did not know who he was, nor Jwhither he
had gone. The fish now began to throw a hook,
fastened to a long line, to all the winds ; and when
he at last threw it to the north, he pulled out
Olifat, and killed him. Afler a lapse of four
or five days, without Olifat appearing, those who
sought to kill him in heaven, consoled themselves,

* This is the fish whose upper jaw is so much shorter than
the under one.

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THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

203

and thought he was now dead. But Lugeleng
looked for his son, and at last found him dead, and
full of worms. He raised him up in his arms, and
awakened him. He asked him who had killed him.
Olifat answered, he had not been dead, but had
been sleeping. Lugeleng called the fish Fela to
him, beat him with a club, on the head, and broke
the upper jaw : hence the form which he now has.
Aluelap, Lugeleng, and Olifat, now entered into
glory, where they are engaged in administering

justice. • '^ '.■■.::.: <\ !,'

Others fix the number of divinities at seven,
namely, Ligopup, Hautal, Aluelap, Litefeo, Hula-
guf, Lugeleng, and Olifat.

To the question whether other islands had the
same belief, several answered. That this was the
belief of the whole world, and the world would
perish when Aluelap commanded it. - « «

For comparison we shall communicate the doc-
trine of the former inhabitants of the Mariana
islands. Velarde, torn. ii. fol. 291. Puntan was a
very wise man, who had lived many years in the
void space, before the creation of the heaven and
the earth. When he was about to die, he com-
missioned his sister that she should make the
heavens and earth out of his breast and shoulders,
the sun and moon out of his eyes, and the rainbow
out of his eye-brows. * .....

* Thus in our northern mythology : —
Or Ymis holdi Literal : Out of Ymer's flesh,

Variorth om scavpvth ^ Was the earth created ;

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

Though there is no public service at Ulea to the
gods or the divinity, we were yet assured by Don
Luis, that the people were not without pious
sentiments. Individuals sometimes lay fruits, as
offerings to the invisible beings, and nobody is
blamed for taking this offering and eating it.

Cantova mentions a peculiar manner of enquiring
into one's future destiny. The mode of proceeding
is the following : They tear two strips from each
side of the rib of a cocoa-leaf, repeating the s}'l-
lable, Pue-pue-pue, one after the other, then
hastily make knots in every strip, repeating the
question they intend to put respecting their fate,
in intelligible words. The first strip is laid between
the little and the ring finger, with four knots in
the inside of the hand, and the other with a de-
creasing number of knots between the middle and
the fore-finger, and between the fore-finger and
the thumb. According as the number of knots
hanging over the back of the hand coincides with,
or differs from the number of fingers, one, two,
three and four, the indication is fortunate or
unfortunate. = . h -i^J^^ <

At Ulea, as among other people, many customs,

Enn or beinam biorg, ., But out of (his) bones rocks ;

Himinn or havsi The heaven out of the skull

Ins hrimkalda iotvnns. Of the ice-cold giant ;

Enn or svcita sior. But out of his blood the sea.

Vnflhnisdisnial XXI. Erfda sannundar, p. 13.

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THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

205

depending on their belief, are observed, and many
conjurations prevail. We have mentioned the
cutting of the dolphin. A small Hsh is caught
very often, with which children are not allowed
to play. Should it happen th^it any person held
this fish by the tail, so that the head hung down, all
the fish would, in the same manner, seek the bot-
tom of the sea with their heads at the next fishery,
and none would be caught. Many people are not
allowed to eat of the fruits of the banana bunch.
Only that person who has eaten one of the ba-
nanas is suffered to eat the rest.

On the desert island of Fajo, as at Bygar, fresli
water is conjured into the water pits.

There is a species of black-bird, which is under
divine protection on this island, and not permitted
to be eaten.

The people of Eap are famed for their skill in
conjuration. They understand how to conjure the
sea, to lay the storm, and, in a calm, to call up the
wind from the favourable quarter. They understand,
by throwing, with conjuration, an herb into the sea,
to excite the waves, and to raise the most dreadful
storms. To them is ascribed the destruction of so
many boats from Feis and Mogemug, nay, even the
gradual depopulation of these islands. In a piece
of fresh water, in the territory of Sutemil, there
are two fish, only a span long, but extremely old ;
they keep constantly in one line, with their heads
turned towards each other. If one of them is

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

touched with a switch, so that it moves forward,
and they cross each other, the islands are shaken to
their foundations, and the earthquake does not cease
till both occupy their former situation. Above
these fish, and the water in which they live, a
house is built, and over it watch the chiefs, at
whose death there sometimes occurs an earthquake.
A certain Eonopei (he is now dead, his son Ta-
managack is a chief of the territory of Eleal) once
showed our friend Kadu a remarkable specimen of
his art. Eonopei prepared a round flat cake out of
taro dough. It was night and full moon. He began,
with conjurations, to eat his cake. In proportion
as he bit into the edge of it, the full disk of
the moon was impaired and hollowed out, more
and more, in the form of a sickle. When he had
thus, for a time, magically eaten at the moon, he
altered this process and his conjurations. He
now began to knead the soft dough of his cake,
which remained, again into a full circle ; at the
same time the disk of the moon equally increased,
and at last the moon shone quite full. Kadu,
during this time, sat next to the conjuror, looked
at every thing, the moon and the cake, with the
greatest attention, and wondered how the circle of
each cottld, simultaneously, first decrease and
then encrease. We make no comments upon the
account of our simple-minded friend, of whose
veracity we have not the least suspicion, and leave
it fo more learned commentators, to apply it to

19

THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

207

an eclipse of the moon ; which we cannot, how-
ever, suppose could be foretold at Eap before the
discovery of writing. ,:>) u; *i r i : ;o .;

Feasts and banquets, which take place on seve-
ral occasions, such as the piercing the ears of
children, the cutting of their hair at Eap, tattoo-
ing, &c. seem to have no religious signification.

Singing and dancing, mostly inseparable, every
where constitute the chief delight, the chief amuse-
ment. There are different kinds of festive sports,
which are led up by the different sexes, or by both
united, and of which each bears a different cha"
racter and a peculiar name. Their songs are^
however, not accompanied by any musical instru-
ments, and even the drum is unknown in the Caro-
linas. ^--■■•-' ■' ■'■ ■ ^^ ^■'■''■- '■

The chiefs seem to be subject to each other,,
according to a kind of feudal system. Opinion
raises them high above the lower people, and ex-
traordinary demonstrations of respect are paid to
them, with which we are sufficiently acquainted by
Cantova's Letters, and (for Pelew) from the Ac-
count of the Pelew Islands. They bow before
tliem to the ground, and only crawl to them. The
boats lower their sails in sight of the island of
Mogemug, the residence of the principal chief of
the group of this name. This reverence to noble,
perhaps divine, descent, does not appear to inter-
fere in purely human connections between chiefs
and other men, notwithstanding the relative rank,,

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

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to which due regard is paid. The principal chiefs
have great authority, and exercise penal justice,
according to the principles of the strictest retali-
ation ; •* An eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth.*'

According to Cantova, criminals are only pu-
nished by banishment. We will relate a story,
according to our friend Kadu, in which it is evi-
dent with what great lenity crimes are less sought
to be revenged than repressed. We fancy we hear
the national tale of the Fin-vokur from the mouths
of our nurses. '»

On an island of Mogemug the trees were regu-
larly robbed of their best fruit, without the people,
who carefully watched each other, being able for
a long time to discover the thief. They were at
last aware, that an apparently well-disposed boy
got up every night and committed the robbery.
They chastised him, and watched him. He how-
ever deceived their vigilance, and did not leave off
his practice. They shut him up during the night;
they tied his hands on his back, but the sly thief
knew how to frustrate all these precautions, and
continued as before. They brought him to a re-
mote, uninhabited island of the group, whicii
barely afforded food for one man. Here they left
him alone. They, however, soon perceived that
it had been of no avail, and their trees were still
robbed as before. Several persons rowed over to
the desert island, and found the young man feast-
ing in great abundance on the fruits of their pro-

THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

209

perty* The trunk of a tree served him' for a boat,
and he went out every night on his depredations.
They destroyed this vessel, and left him, having
deprived him of the power of doing mischief in
his solitude* They had now rest. After some
time, they wished to know how he did, and some
persons went again to the island. They heard and
saw nothing of him. After they had in vain
called and looked for him in the woods, they re-
turned to the shore, and found that their boat was
gone. The sly thief had gone with it to sea. He
sailed over to Sorol. On this group he did not
leave off his tricks, but projected greater under-
takings. He persuaded the chief of Sorol to make
an attack on Mogemug. He was to surprize the
chief in the night, and murder him, and seize upon
the supreme power. The confederates came by
day in sight of Mogemug. They lowered their
sails, awaiting the night in the open sea. The boat
was, however, observed, and they were surrounded
on their landing. The instigator was punished
with death. The people of Sorol returned unin-
jured to their island.

The succession at Ulea, as at Radack, descends
first to the brothers, and then to the sons of the
eldest son.

According to Kadu, the chiefs give to the
eldest son the name of their father, to the second the
name of their wife's father, to the third again the
name of their father, anu so on ; other people, on

VOL. III. F

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

the contrary, give to their eldest son the name of
the father of their wife, and to the other children
different names ; and it is said to be the same at
Radack. According to Don Luis, the degree of
consanguinity is indicated in the names, and it is to
be recognized by them whose son or nephew he is.

The amicable exchange of names, a general
custom in Eastern Polynesia, is unknown on the
Carolinas, and Kadu at first denied that it was cus-
tomary at Radack, though he himself gave us
examples of it in the sequel.

Marriages are concluded without any solemni-
ties. The man makes a present to the father of
the girl whom he marries, consisting of fruits, fish,
and similar things. The value of this gift is ac-
cording to the rank of the father of the bride, for
marriages also take place between persons not
equals. If only the father, or only the mother, is
of the class of the chiefs, the children are ac-
counted to belong to this class. In the first case
the man and husband shows to his wife, and his
children by her, all the exterior demonstra-
tions of respect due to their rank. A plurality
of wives is allowed. Marriages are dissolved,
as they were concluded, without any cere-
mony. The husband sends his wife back to
her father. The husbands also cohabit with their
wives when they are pregnant, but not when tliey
have a child at the breast. The latter is only cus-
tomary at Radack ; tlie former, contnuy to Wil-

THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

211

son's assertion, is expressly observed at Pelew.
There a chief, who has generally several wives,
has his place, with any one of his wives who is in
this state, supplied by a chosen man. We shall
speak particularly of the customs of Pelew. Mar-
ried women in other islands are entirely devoted
to their fiusbands. They are bound by duty, and
the uncorrupted morals of the people seem to guard
their virtue. Unmarried women are allowed their
liberty, according to custom. They pass the nights
in their own large houses. Infanticide is unheard-
of ; the prince would have the unnatural mother
punished with death.

What we related respecting the burial of the
dead at Radack, is also customary at Ulea, and the
islands lying more east. According to Kadu, the
corpses of all persons, without distinction of birth,
are buried on the islands at Feis, Mogemug, and
Eap. We, however, see at Mogemug, after the
great tragedy which concludes the history of the
Carolina missions, the customs of Ulea observed
towards the dreaded strangers whom they had
murdered, and must believe that Kadu erred with
respect to Mogemug. At Eap the burying-places
are in the mountains. The mountaineers fetch
the corpses of persons who have died in the valley,
and for this office receive a present of fruits, roots,
&c. It appears that none of the friends follow it

to the grave.

A bond of inviolable friendship is concluded in

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

1

all these islands, exclusively between two men,
which binds the fiiends together with particular
force. The chief and the common man can also
conclude such a bond, without infringing on the
relative rank of the parties. Though this kind of
friendship is found on all the islands, yet different
duties and privileges are attached to it at different
places. At Eap, on every kind of engagement,
one friend must stand security for his friend, and
where he is injured, or killed, he is obliged to re-
venge it. To similar obligations a new one is
found at Ulea. When the friend claims the hos-
pitality of his friend, he gives him his wife during
the time of his visit, which is not done at Feis, and
farther west. We have seen, that at Radack the
duty in the first respect is less binding ; in others,
the same as at Ulea.

The touching of the noses, as on the islands of
Eastern Polynesia, is the customary salutation.

Of the CaroUnas, only Pelew, Eap, Tuch, and
the remoter islands, with which Tuch is at vari-
ance, are acquainted with war. The other islands,
as Ulea, enjoy an uninterrupted peace. Our kind-
hearted companion frequently and joyfully re-
peated, " There, there they know nothing of war
and combat ! there man does not kill man ! and
he who sees war, his hair will turn white !** War
has not always prevailed at Eap. Formerly, the
island recognized the authority of a principal chief,
and there was peace. But since the death of Gurr.

13

THE CAKOLINK IHLANDS.

'ns

the last supreme chief, the chief's of the different
districts often settle their disputes by arms. In case
of any wrong, or offence, the triton's horn is
blown. Both parties approach each other armed.
They negociate. When satisfaction is refused,
and no compromise can be agreed upon, they fight.
The war lasts till one of the class of chiefs has
fallen on each side, and the opposite party eaten a
part of his flesh. Every one only just lifts a piece
to his lips. This is an indispensable ceremony.
As soon as this condition has been complied with
peace is restored; and it is confirmed by mar-
riages between the two parties. The character of
these islanders is, however, mild and hospitable as
those of the other groups. The stranger at Eap
and Pelew goes without danger between the belli-
gerent parties, and enjoys an equally friendly re-
ception among both. The people of Eap throw
the dart in an arc, with the assistance of a hol-
lowed piece of bamboo, in which the unarmed end
of the weapon is held and receives the impulse.
By this means they throw it an extraordinary dis-
tance. This weapon seems to agree in the essen-
tial parts with those of the Aleutians and northern
Esquimaux. They have also the two-pointed
lance of the Radackers. When the combatants
have approached each other, this lance is thrown
straight, and merely by the hand. They at last
fight man to man. The chief leads on to war with

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214

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

the triton's horn. The military expedition ap-
preaches towards the hostile territory in boats and
rafts of bamboo. The landing is attempted to be
opposed. Tlie decisive combats take place on
shore.

The people of Tuch use, for close combat, the
dart, and, at a distance, the sling. Their throw is
far and sure ; they manage this weapon with
astonishing skill. They also constantly wear them
in time of peace tied round the head, and use them
to kill birds, to beat down fruit from the trees, and
the like. Kadu learned to use the sling at Ulea
from the natives of Tuch, and he often passed his
time among us in this exercise, in which he was,
hewever, very unskilful.

Don Luis de Torres extolled, in his friends of
Ulea, what gave us pleasure to praise in our
friends at Radack : they are kind, friendly, ele-
gant, and modest. A woman never came on board
the Maria. They are good-natured, affectionate,
generous, and grateful. They have the memory of
the heart. Any thing, a useful instrument, for ex-
ample, which they have received as a gift from a
friend, retains and bears among them as a lasting
memorial, the name of the friend who bestowed
it. Thus Kadu intended to give our names to
the animals and plants we had introduced there,
to keep us in eternal remembrance^

Of the natives of the Pelew islands^ {Palaos

THE CAROLINE ISLANDS.

n5

Panlogj) Cantova gives a terrible picture. * Ac-
cording to the accounts he received, they are
hostile cannibals. They appear to us, in the ac-
count of the grateful Henry Wilson, who owed his
return to his country to their generous hospitality,
in the most favourable light, the partial colouring
of aflfection, adorned with every virtue ; and the
fact proves, that they exercised most of these vir-
tues. We live with Wilson among this people, see
with our own eyes, and judge ourselves. Since
Wilson's time, English, Spaniards, and Americans
have continually visited the Pelew islands; several
Europeans have settled there, and the Trepang is
constantly collected on their reefs for the mart of
Canton. Kadu, who had been at the Pelew islands,
gave us a comparison between the two people.
This comparison, according to the opinion of our
friend, was not favourable to the natives of the
Pelew islands. He particularly censures them for
total want of modesty, so that they brutally follow
the impulse of nature in open day. He excited in

* Peuple nombreux, mais inhumain et barbare ; les hommes
et les femmes y sont entiferement nues et se repaissent de chair
humaine, les Indians des Carolines regardent cette nation avec
liorreur, comme I'ennemie du genre humain et avec laqu'elle il
est dangereux d'avoir le moindre commerce. Ce rapport me
paroit fiddle et tres conforme a ce que nous en a appris le
P. Bernard Messia, comme on le peut voir dans sa relation."
This account is nowhere found, and appears never to have
been printed.

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

US the picture of excessive licentiousness, sucli da
is found in the Sandwich islands.

A few leaves of a journal, communicated to us
at Cavite, by a Spaniard, who had passed nine
months in the Pelew islands, are drawn up in the
language of abuse, not of criticism. He makes
less impression on us than our honest friend, whose
inculpations he, however, circumstantially repeats.
" The man knows the woman in the sight of every
body. All are ready to give up their wives for a
trifle," &c. ; but he also accuses them of eating
human flesh, and scarcely allows them the flgures
of men. We lay down his melancholy writing
after having merely mentioned it : they are probably
no longer the innocent and unsuspecting friends
of Wilson. What they have learnt from us has
not made them better.

•- '

yi7

THE PENRHYN ISLANDS.*

1 UK. liigli, thick woods, which are formed by the
cocoa-palms on the Penrhyn islands, deceived us
at a distance, with the appearance of elevated
shores. Smoke ^.nnounced to us that they were
inhabited. As soon as we had approached the
shore, innumerable boats surrounded us, and a
peaceable people offered to trade with us.

The islanders are strong and well made, stouter
than the inhabitants of Easter Island, and of the
same colour. They are not tattooed, but many
have furrows and stripes lacerated in the skin of
the body and arms, which in one of them seemed
to be quite fresh and bleeding. They have fre-
quently no front teeth. Elderly people are very
corpulent, and large. We observed several old
men who had suffered the thumb-nails to grow, a
speaking testimony of their privileged idleness,
hi one of them, this nail, which was bent inwards,
had reached to the length of between two and
three inches.

We counted about thirty-six boats j in each of
them were from seven to thirteen people, who

* Voyage ot'Govenor Philipp, Second Edition, Lond. 1790,
p. 233. Lieut. Watts' Narrative of the Return of the Lady Pen-
rhyn, (Capt. Sever,) p. 254, and Appendix, p. 33. table 7, p. 39.

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UEMAUKS AND OPINIONS.

seemed all to belong to the same family. An old
man (perhaps the father of the family ?) stood in
the middle and spoke for all. He had tied, ap-
parently as an emblem of peace, the eri of a
cocoa-leaf round his neck. There were women in
three boats only. In these an elderly woman
(the mother of the family ?) occupied a back seat,
and seemed to have an important influence in the
affairs of the men. The authority of no individual
seemed to extend farther than his own boat.

The women wear a girdle, with stripes of bast
hanging loosely, similar to that of the men at Ra-
dack. And the men only bunches of cocoa-leaves
tied to a cord. Only a few of them had a scanty
covering for their shoulder. This consists of a
coarse mat in two pieces, made of a cocoa-leaf.
A part of the middle rib, on which the little leaves
grow, forms the under-edge of this basket-like
mantle. Sometimes bleached pandanus leaves are
braided between, for ornament. Only a few of
them had a head-dress of black feathers.

They pressed round our vessel with much affa-
bility and confidence, but none of them ventured
to accept our invitation to come on board. They
had but little to give us in exchange for our goods,
to which they pointed with eagerness, and received
them with a kind of respect ; only some cocoa-
nuts, mostly unripe, some utensils which they had
taken with them by chance, and their arms. These
are long lances, made of cocoa-nut tree, at the

THE PENRHTN ISLANDS.

^219

l)ottom of which about a hand*s-breadth of other
wood is fastened with strings of cocoa-bast, and
the point is either widened and two-edged, or
single, and very long. They first hesitated to
barter their arms, and would not part with them,
except for long nails or scarlet worsted girdles.
We obtained from them some fishing-hooks, which
were two pieces of real mother-of-pearl joined to-
gether, and wrought in the most tasteful manner,
perfectly resembling those of the Sandwich islands.
Their boats are made of several pieces of wood
well joined together with cocoa-bast cords. Both
ends are rounded off, above the water and below
the water, furnished with a projecting spar. They
have an outrigger, on which their arms are secured.
We did not wait for a boat, which approached
us under full sail, from a distant island of the
group. ''' ' '

The low group of the Penrhyns richly provides
for a numerous population, which is proved by the
appearance of the people. Of their productions,
we only know the incomparable cocoa-woods which
cover them, and the pandanus. We have not been
able to learn what other fruits they may have, or
what roots ; whether the swine and the dog, or
whether the latter alone.

As we sailed from the Penrhyns, black clouds,
with thunder and lightning, hung over them, and
afforded us a sublime prospect, such as is seldom
seen at sea. . ^ -

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THE LOW ISLANDS IN 15" S. LATITUDE, BETWEEN
138" AND 149" W. LONGITUDE.

ROMANZOFF ISLAND.

The author of these papers leaves it to learned
hydrographers, who require the most scientific re-
search respecting the similarly formed reefs and
low islands in these seas, on the one hand, to com-
pare the low islands which we saw about 15° S.
latitude, between 138° and 149'' W. longitude
from Greenwich, in the year 1816, namely, in the
order in which they follow from E. to W. (the
direction of our course,) the Doubtful Island (5mw/-
yiitelny Ostrqff, ) RomanzofF and SpiridofF islands,
Rurickand Dean's Chain, and Krusenstern's Island,
with the discoveries of former navigators, and
especially with those of Le Maire and Schouten,
whose course we followed ; and, on the other hand,
to look for their names on the chart of Tupaya, in
the limits of which they are situated.

Krusenstern has treated on the first of these
points in his Contributions to Hydrography, p. 17^«
But we cannot recognize \\\ the desolate Spiridoft'
Island, that of Sondergrondt, which is said to be
very populous, and richly covered with cocoa-trees ;
and this seems to cast a doubt on his decision upon
other points.

ROMANZOFF ISLAND.

^-21

The islands seen by us all appeared to be inhospit-
able, and really uninhabited, and the small Roman-
zoff Island was the only one of all those on which
we landed that was covered with cocoa-trees. The
formation to which they belong has already been
described. We have only to add a few remarks
on those we visited. A look at the atlas will be
more instructive with respect to the others than all
we could say about them.

RomanzofF Island is of small circumference.
The raised dam of madrepore, which forms the
outward edge, incloses a flat, where there seems
to be a greater depth of mould, on which slender
cocoa-trees rise here and there, without forming an
entire wood. The raised protecting edge is par-
tially broken on the leeward side of the island, and
it appears, that in very high tides the sea pene-
trates into the interior of the island. The rain-
water which was collected in many places was per-
fectly sweet.

The Flora here is extremely poor. We counted
only nineteen species of perfect plants, (one fern,
three Monocotyledones and fifteen Dkotylcdoncs,)
and we do not think that many have twcaped our ob-
servation. The \o\v AcotyledoneSt with which vege-
tation begins in higher latitudes, seems to be want-
ing here. The lichens appear only on the trunks
of old trees, like a powdery covering, and the black
mould on the stone does not seem to be of a vege-
table nature. A moss, and several fungi which we

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

found at Radack, did not occur in RomanzoflP.
The plants that we observed were, a Poli/podium,
the cocoa-tree, the pandanus, a grass, Scaevok
Konigii, Toumefortia argentea, Lythrum Pemphis,
Guetiarda speciosay a Cassi/ta, an Euphorbia, and
a Boerhavia, a herbaceous nettle. Besides the
above, all of which are at Radack, we met with the
following, which are wanting there ; two shrub-like
RuhiacecB, another shrub Heliotropium prostratum,
Portulacca oleracea, a Lepidium (acre?), and a
Bmhnera ?

Shrubs with entire, simple, and for the most
part fleshy leaves, and colourless flowers, form an
easily penetrable thicket, over which the cocoa-
tree rises, and where the pandanus alone is dis-
tinguished by its remarkable form, and only the
leafless Cassyta climbs with its reddish fibres.
The soil is every where to be seen through the
thin vegetable covering.

We did not observe the rat, which, it is true,
conceals itself during the hot hours of noon, (at
which time we visited the island.) Different kinds
of forest birds (Numeniiis, Scolopas,) were nume-
rous on this island, which did not appear to fear
man. They merely avoided our treading on them
like tame fowls in a farm yard. The Sterna stoUda
is the most numerous among the water-fowls. The
foolish confidence of this bird has justly acquired
its name. In these seas it literally flew into our
hands, and we set some of them at liberty after we

UOMANZOFF ISLAND.

OOfl

hiul tieil a ticket round their necks, with the name
of the ship and the date.

A small lizard seemed to be the only animal
without wings on RomanzofF Island. A small
butterfly was very common, and the only insect
that fell into our hands.

Romanzoff Island is visited by the inhabitants
of other islands, which are not to be seen from it.
The landing-place is on the windward side. From
thence several shining footpaths, trodden in the frag-
ments of sharp coral, lead, in different directions,
through the island. We found in the interior a
small boat, which was quite decayed, made of the
trunk of a cocoa-tree, hollowed out, and furnished
with an out-rigger. In two different places stood
light circular huts, consisting only of a few sticks,
coarse mats, and cocoa-leaves. In one of them we
found an instrument resembling a comb of wood,
fastened together with strings of cocoa-bast.
There were several pits dug for the collection
of rain-water. Fire had been kindled on different
parts of the ground, but we nowhere found bak-
ing.pits. Under the lee of the island, along the
shore, was a place contrived to stretch lines ; and
near this place was a young tree, with the branches
cut off, on which hung cocoa-nuts, and leaves, and
a string of cocoa-bast.

There were no settled dwelling or morals on
Romanzoff' Island, and we no where found indica-
tions that people had lately visited it.

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224

WAIHU, OR EASTER ISLAND. — SALA Y
I GOMEZ. *

W^E but barely set our feet on the lava beach of
Easter Island, and do not flatter ourselves with
considerably extending the knowledge the reader
may already have of it. We refer to the reports of
our predecessors, and only try to give him an ac-
count of the impression which the transient view
of it made upon us.

Easter Island rises majestically out of tlie waves,
in a triangular form, swelling into pyramidical
mountains.

It represents in miniature the regular large hues
of Owhyee. It appears to be covered every where
with the liveliest green : the ground, even on
the steepest declivities of the mountains, is divided
in regular fields, which are distinguished by
various lively colours, and many of which were
covered with yellow blossoms. We gazed with
astonishment at this volcanic earth covered with
stone, which is notorious for its want of wood and
water.

We believe we have distinguished on the south-
east coast, by the aid of our telescopes, some of the

* KruscnstenVs Contributions to Hydrography, p. 219.

EASTER ISLAND.

2^i5

colossel statues which have excited so much ad-
miration. The busts in Cook's bay, on the west
coast, where we cast anchor, which distinguished
the landing-place, and were seen by Lisianskoy,
no longer exist.

Two canoes (we only saw three in all), each con-
taining two men, approached with signs of friend-
ship, but without venturing near the ship. Numbers
of the inhabitants swam round the boat, which was
sent out to sound, offering to barter with it. A
deceit of one of these traders was severely punished.
To effect a landing, we had another boat put out.
A numerous assemblage of peaceable people,
friendly, noisy, impatient, and disorderly, awaited
our arrival on shore. It is not our part to decide,
with La Peyrouse, if these childish people are to
be pitied, that they are more disorderly than their
brethren. It is certain that this circumstance
renders intercourse with them more difficult. We
approached the shore. Every one ran about, re-
joiced, and shouted j signs of peace, threatenings,
stone-throwing, and shots, testimonies of friendship,
were exchanged. Numbers of them at last ventured
to swim round us in crowds, when trading began,
and was conducted with honesty. All of them
with the repeated cry of Hoe/ Hoe! desired knives,
or iron, for which they offered us in exchange
fruits, roots, and very neat fishing-nets. We got
on shore for a moment.

Tiie people who had been represented so ugly,
VOL. HI. (i

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

appeared to us as having handsome features, an
agreeable and expressive physiognomy, a well-
made, slender, and healthy form, and old age
not accompanied with infirmity. The eye of
the artist rejoiced to gaze upon a more beautiful
nature than the bathing places in Europe (his
only school) afford him. The blueish broad-
lined tattooing, which exactly follows the di-
rection of the muscle, has a very pleasing effect
on the brown ground of their skin. There seems
to be no want of bast stuffs. White or yellow
mantles of it are very general. Fresh wreaths of
lerves are worn in their hair, which is cut of differ-
ent lengths. Head-dresses of black feathers are
more rare; we observed several ornamental neck-
laces which were adorned in the middle with a
polished shell (Patella), We met with no inele-
gant, disfiguring ornaments. Some old men had
their pierced and extended ear-lappets tied together,
drawn again through the hole, and thus not very
perceptible. The fore-teeth were frequently broken
off. Some young men were distinguished by a
much lighter colour of the skin. We saw only a
few women, and these had their faces painted dark
red, without either beauty or grace, and seemed to
be without consideration among the men. One of
tliem had an infant at the breast. We do not feel
ourselvec authorized on this account to draw a con-
chision respecting the proportion of the numbers
of the two sexes.

If we compare the reports of Cook, La Pey rouse,

EASTER ISLAND.

^27

Lisianskoy, with our own experience, a supposition
arises that the population of Easter Island has in-
creased, and that the situation of the islanders is
improved. But if the generous intentions of the
philanthrophic Louis XVI., who sent to this people,
by La Peyrouse, our domestic animals, useful plants
and fruit trees, have succeeded, we were not able
to ascertain, and must therefore doubt it; we only
saw the productions enumerated by Cook, as ba-
nanas, sugar-cane, roots, and very small fowls.

When we weighed anchor in the evening fer-
tilizing clouds rested on the mountains of the
island.

We have since learnt, the probable occasion of
the doubtful reception we met with at Easter
Island, and had cause to blush for ourselves who
call these people savages.

The island Sala y Gomez is merely a naked, low
rock, which rises like a saddle at both ends, where
the kind of rock is exposed to view, the middle
appearing to be strewed with congeries. It does
not belong to the coral reefs, which only appear
farther to the west. We may suppose a connection,
and a similar nature with the high volcanic land of
the neighbouring Easter Island. As yet there are
no sign» of the beginning of a future vegetation
visible. - It serves as the residence of innumerable
sea-fowls, which seem to prefer these naked rocks
to green though uninhabited islands, as the plants

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228

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

contain insects j and the ant is particularly danger-
ous to their young.

; The sea-fowl are always met with, according to
our frequent experience, to windward of the island,
where they build their nests. In the morning
they are seen flying far from the shore with the
wind, and returning in the evening likewise with
the wind. Kadu also seemed to notice the flight
of the birds in the evening.

Fragments of a wrecked ship are said to have
been seen at Sala y Gomez ; we, however, looked
for it in vain. One shudders at the idea of the
possibility that a human being might have been
cast here alive; for the eggs of the sea-fowl would
have but too well sufliced to protract his wretched
existence, between the sea and sky, on these bare
sun-burnt rocks.

229

i f.i.

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS— THE
JOHNSTONE ISLANDS.

OwHYEE rises majestically, in grand unbroken
lines, from the waves, and forms, in an enormous
mass, three different mountain-summits, on two of
which the snow lies several months in the year.

We both times visited the Sandwich islands in
the autumn, and never saw any snow on the
heights of Owhyee. (In November, 1816, and in
September, I8I7.)

Mouna Roa, the great mountain. La Mesa, (the
Table of the Spaniards *,) rises in a bold curve
southwards, in the interior of the island, and towers
above the others, which unite with it. Mouna
Kaah, the little mountain, the next to the Mouna
Roa, with its rugged cliffs, occupied the north.
The third, Mouna Wororay, a volcanic peak, lies
on the western coast. There is a drawing of the
crater in Vancouver's atlas. On its naked de-
clivities shine streams of lava, the last of which it

* Owhyee and the Sandwich islands, La Mesa, or La Mira,
and Los Monges, of the old Spanish charts (San Francisco, of
Anson's chart might perhaps likewise be Owhyee,) must have
been frequently seen by the galleons on the voyage from
Acapulco to Manilla. It is to be observed that M. Marin has
not been able to discover, in the popular traditions of Owhyee,
any reminiscence of a former intercourse with European;^.

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230

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

poured into the sea by a lateral eruption in the
year 1801. The village of Powarua is built on the
shore upon this scorious lava. The Mouna Puo-
ray, which forms the north-west point of the island,
joins, as an inferior hill, to the basis of Mouna
Kaah.

The heights of Owhyee generally appear quite
distinct during the night, and in the morning ; the
vapour falls on them at noon : the clouds which
they produce repose in the evening in dense
masses over the island, and dissolve towards mid-
night.

Where we approached Owhyee, doubling the
north-west point, and sailing along the west coast
to the southern foot of Woraray, near Titatua, the
declivities appear bare and sun-burnt. Some parts
are used for tillage, the most are covered with
scanty grass. Amidst clouds, the region of the
forests begins, and the eye scarcely reaches the
naked crowns of this gigantic mountain. Tlie
strand presents to the view an uninterrupted row
of settlements, which, as you approach further to
the south, are surrounded with more luxuriant ver-
dure, and more frequently relieved by cocoa-
palms.

Of the volcanic chain of mountains of the Sand-
wich islands, only Wororay on Owhyee seems still
active. Hot springs are in the territory of Ko-
chala, near the habitation of Mr. Young, on the
coast south of Puoray. The chain runs from the

19

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

231

north-west point of Owliyee over the islands of
Mowee, Morotoi, and Woahoo, to west north-
west. The most eastern mountain on Mowee is
but Uttle inferior in height to Wororay, and is simi-
lar in the grandeur of its form. The more western
is lower, and its summit appears to be rent in two
different clefts from north to south.

The grand lines of the mountain descend on
Morotoi still lower, even to the flat western point
of this island. The mountain rises again in Woa-
hoo, where, with an entirely different form, it
scarcely reaches a quarter of the height of Owhyee.
Two dissimilar groups of mountains rise in the
island of Woahoo. The eastern and lower one
has a greater extent than the western, which
contains the higher summits. The chain, deeply
indented by well-watered and beautifully verdant
vallies, shoots up ragged summits in broken lines.
The woods descend lower than in Owhyee, upon
their declivities, to the sun-burnt plains, which
mostly surround these islands, and were once coral
reefs covered by the sea ; and such reefs extend
far into the sea from these plains. A break in the
reef; at the mouth of a stream produced by water
collected in the mountains, forms, on the southern
foot of the eastern mass of mountains, the secure
harbour of Hana-rura, from which place we made
our excursions in different directions through both
parts of the island.

The nearest low hill behind Hana-rura is an old

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232

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

volcanic crater, now closed, and which, like the
external declivity, is thickly overgrown with grass.
A similar, but higher and larger crater, which
forms a promontory, washed by the sea, bounds
the prospect to the east. Pretended diamonds,
which an European is said to have found in these
parts, gave occasion to the taboo, .which has been
imposed upon this mountain. We were shown as
such common quartz crystals.

The mountain-chain rises behind these naked
front hills, covered with a lovely verdure in irre-
gular steps to its highest ridge, which runs along
the northern coast. Valleys and defiles lead to
the passes which intersect each other between the
summits. The valley of Nuanu, behind Hana-rura,
is the most extensive and pleasant of all. Beyond,
towards the north or north-east, the mountain pre-
sents a steep declivity, which cannot be ascended,
except barefooted, by giddy paths and rocky
ascents.

Low hills, covered with sun-burnt savannahs,
unite the two mountain-masses of the islands. To
the south of these hills, the inlet of the sea, called
by the English the Pearl River, winds with nu-
merous branches up to their foot, through an ex-
tensive plain, which is a coral reef abandoned by
the sea, the surface of which is raised about ten
feet above the present level of the ocean. This
frith appears to afford the finest harbour; it is,
however, saiil, that a bank obstructs the entrance

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Q33

of ships. It receives streams only from the eastern
mountains. The ridge of the western higher moun-
tains is turned to the interior of the island, and
pours its waters into the valleys, which it embraces
in the west, with several arms. The passes between
the summits are high and steep, and only to be
ascended by dangerous paths. The luxuriance of
the vegetation, which, at the height of about three
hundred toises, to which we ascended, appears
unchanged, mostly conceals from the eye of tiic
geologer the object of his search, and the kind of
rock is scarcely to be seen.

On both sides of the island we observed only
argillaceous porphyry and amygdaloid j black
patches, which we noticed from the sea on the
eastern declivity and foot of the great old crater,
seemed to us to be a lava.

The clouds collect round the summits of the
mountains, and rain frequently falls in the interior
of the island, while a scorching sun burns up the
strand.

The temperature visibly changes as soon as you
enter the mountain-valleys from the exterior
plains.

We already possessed three measurements of the
height of Mouna Roa, differing very much from
each other, after King, Marchand, and Horner.
The more exact measurement of M. Von Kotze-
buQ determines it within six toises of the second
above-mentioned j and his trigonometrical laboiui^

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234

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

on the other summits of the Sandwich islands, pre-
sent an interesting series.

The short time which was allowed us on both
visits, only permitted us to look with regret on the
mountains of Owhyee, which appeared to us worth
the object of a voyage on purpose to the Sandwich
islands. We were even obliged to renounce the
examination of them, though on the spot.

To ascend Mouna Roa from Titatua requires a
journey of at least two weeks (compare Vancou-
ver), and at Titatua and Powarua at the very foot
of Wororay, the summit of which we could hope
to ascend in a short time, there still remained the
journey to the ship at Hana-rura, in a double
canoe of the natives, which was not to be depended
on, as you can have no command at all over such
a boat ; the navigation is impeded by frequent
taboos, and the passage from Owhyee over to
Mowee, and from Morotoi to Woahoo might be
long delayed and prevented by the wind. What
Archibald Menzies, the learned companion of
Vancouver, has collected in plants on different ex-
cursions to the heights of Owhyee and Mowee,
lies still buried with so many other treasures in the
Herbarium of Banks j and though the venerable
Nestor of natural philosophy has opened his Ga-
zophylacium to the naturalist, and to all learned
men, with the same unequalled hospitality, no one
has yet undertaken to make us acquainted with
the Alpine Flora of Owhyee.

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

235

'

The Flora of Owhyee has nothing in common
with the nearest continent of the coast of Cali-
fornia. The leafless form of the Jcacia, the spe-
cies of MetrosideroSf Pandanus, Santalum, Akii-
rites, Dracaena, Amomum, Curcuma, Tacca, im-
press the stamp of its origin and natural rela-
tionship. Predominant are the families of Ru-
hiacew, Contortce, and Urticw, of the latter of
which several species, growing wild, are used to
prepare different kinds of bast-stuff. * Several
arborescent, milky Lobeliacew are distinguished.
The exterior boundary of the island produces but
very few kinds of grass and shrubs. In the inte-
rior the Flora is rich, without, however, being
comparable with the luxuriant abundance of the
Brazilian soil. Only low trees descend to the
valley ; among them the Aleurites triloba, with its
whitish foliage, forms conspicuous thickets round
the skirts and on the declivities of the moun tarns.
You find here and there, in the high mountain
defiles, wonderful banana groves, the trunks of
which, crowded close together, cause a gloomy
night, with their broad, extended foliage. This
plant, which, cultivated on the strand, reaches
scarcely a height of five feet, attains in these
places thrice that height. The acacia, out of the

* The ptvper-mulborry tree, {Broussonctia papi^ri/era,) is cul-
tivated in the Sandwich islands, as in most of the islands of the
South Sea for making stuffs. But it is an erroneous supposition
iliat stuff is prepared only from the bark of this tree.

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230

REMARKS AND OriNIONS.

trunk of which the large canoes of" the natives are
hollowed, attains only in the mountains the height
necessary for this purpose j you find also here and
there the sanders-tree, the wood of which, so highly
valued in China, bestows riches on the rubers of
these islands, while the oppressed people, who are
obliged to collect it, are impoverished, as they are
taken away from their agriculture and arts.

The taro-root, (^Arum esculentum), beaten to a soft
pap, after it has been boiled, constitutes the chief
food of the people. Woahoo is the most fertile
of the Sandwich islands, from which Owhyee re-
ceives a part of the taro necessary for its consump-
tion. The cultivation of the valleys behind Hana-
rura is remarkable. Artificial ponds support, even
on the mountains, the taro plancations, which are
at the same time fish-ponds; and all kinds of useful
plants are cultivated on the intervening dams.
Many imported plants are now cultivated close to
the originally native, but the people who are
attached to their ancient mode of life, make use of
only a few of them. Among these the tobacco
must be chiefly mentioned, the use of which all
the nations of the earth have been equally ready
to adopt. The water-melon, the melon, and fruit
in general, have, next to tobacco, met with the
best reception. Besides the pernicious kava, fer-
mented liquors are prepared from the tea-root,
(^Dracaena terminalh ;) but the sugar-cane is not
yet employed lor i\\\b i)urpose.

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

237

To the diligence of M. Marin, as a farmer, tlve
Sandwich islands in general, and Woahoo, his pre-
sent residence, in particular, lie under great obliga-
tions. He has assiduously introduced and nvulti-
plied our various kinds of animals and plants.
He has near Hana-rura numerous herds of cattle.
(Goats seem to be more generally spread). He
possesses horses, and will increase the breed of
asses and mules, which are more useful in these
mountains. Many foreign trees and plants are
reared in his plantations. Several which he has
introduced, are already found everywhere growing
wild ; for example, the Portulacca oleracea, (only
two other species of the same kind belong to the
native Flora). He has lately had rice grow from
Chinese seeub after many fruitless attempts. He
has planted ■ ^^'^^ of considerable extent, and
the grapes flourish very well, but he is yet unskilled
in the art of making wine. We have frequently
had occasion to remark, during the course of our
voyages, that the art of using the productions
already existing, is a more urgent want than tlie
introduction of new ones, and embrace this op-
portunity of giving a useful hint to beneficent
travellers. There are only wanting a few books
of instructions.

The only original wild quadrupeds of the Sand-
wich islands are a small bat and the rat. To these
is added our common mouse ; besides the flea,
some species of blatta, and other noxious parasites.

■■4

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

The oxen are now grown wild in the interior of
Owhyee, where the king sometimes has them
killed for his table. We observed among the land-
birds the Nectarina coccinea, whose highly-valued
feathers form a part of the tribute. The sea is
rich in fish, many kinds of which are adorned with
colours of extraordinary splendour. They are
numbered among the favourite dishes of the inhab-
itants who breed them in the taro plantations,
and in fish-ponds which are formed by places
walled in on the reefs along the strand. •

Among the crabs, the beautiful Cancer squilla
and Palinurus species are distinguished ; among
shells the little pearl oyster, which are only caught
in the Pearl River, and from which small pearls, of
little value, are obtained.

The sea-worms and zoophytes, probably compose
the richest and most interesting part of the Fauna.
In general, the species here appear to be different
from those at Radack. The progressive growth of
the reef does not seem to have escaped the natives.
They told us that the men, who, at the king's
order, fetched stones out of the sea, to build a
wall, declared, while at their work, that it would
grow, and increase of itself.

Respecting the Sandwich islands, we possess
only the accounts of superficial travellers, who, in
their fidelity, place images before us, where we
expect, and are always more excited to desire
sounder kuowlcflge. Cook discovered these islands;

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

'239

and an unhappy quarrel, caused his valuable life to
be terminated among the powerful and warlike
Owhyeeans. They adored him as a god, and still
piously revere bis memory. Trade followed the
traces of Cook to the north-west coast of America;
and the Sandwich islands, which afforded all kinds
of refreshments to the navigators sailing thither,
thus received the importance which their disco'
verer ascribed to them. With Vancouver we are
at home with them. A great man, with whom,
while yet a youth, we were made acquainted by
Cook, seized the reins of power at Owhyee, and
strove for the sole government of the whole group.-
Tamaahmaah assured himself of the protection of
Great Britain, by freely and voluntarily doing
homage to King George, in the hands of his friend
Vancouver. Later travellers, down to Lisanskoy^
who were informed by the Europeans settled on
the Sandwich islands, extend our knowledge of
them, and acquaint us with the sequel of the his-
tory. Our rapacious adventi^rers diligently pro-
mote war, to keep up the price of arms, which they
give in payment. Tamaahmaah accomplished the
conquest of all the islands, and the king of Atooi,
(the group lying apart in the west), hastened to
submit voluntarily to him whom he could not resists
He was, it is true, misled into rebellion, under the
standard of the Russian American Company, but
lie immediately atoned for his fiudt, and did homage*
anew to his sovereign, (181 7).

240

ItEMARKS AND OHNIONS.

Tamaahmaah, favoured by the situation of his
kingdom, and tlie sanders-wood, which it pro-
duces, has collected immense riches. He buys,
with ready money, arms and ships ; builds himself
smaller vessels, which when he spares the copper-
sheathing, are drawn on shore, and preserved under
sheds at Titatua, Karakakooa, and other places on
the island of Owhyee. He sends out his ships
manned half by Europeans, and half by natives ;
and tries (in which he has not yet succeeded), to
procure admission for his flag into Canton. He
chooses with great judgment such Europeans as
offer him their services, and to those whom he em-
ploys, he is very liberal in lands and salary; he is
noble-minded, and, with the instruction he receives
from foreigners, remains still faithful to the spirit
of his people, and to the customs of his ancestors.

But after the death of the old hero, his kingdom,
founded and kept together by force, will fall to
pieces, the partition of it being already decided
upon, and prepared.

\ Kareimoku, otherwise called Naja (Bill Pitt of
the English), descended from the royal blood of
Mowee, being still a chili, on the conquest of this
island, was spared, kindly treated, and educated by
Tamaahmaah. He has given him his affection, lands
and power; raised him to an elevation, scarcely
inferior to his own. He has given him the power
to decide on life and death ; and has always found
him faithful. Kareimoku, governor of Woalioo,

\

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

241

and lord of the fortress of Hana-rura, in this
island, which is the most important of all, on ac-
count of its harbour, is prepared to take it for
himself, and buys ammunition and ships on his
own account. He is perfectly agreed, and bound
by intimate friendship, with Teimotu, of the war
race of Owhyee, and brother of queen Kahuman»^a,
who is to have the island of Mowcc for his share.
The king of Atooi will retain his I editary king-
dom, as an independent prince ; and the natural
heir to the kingdom, the weak, dull-minded Lio-
Lio, (the Prince of Wales of the English,) nephew
of the last king of Owhyee, son of Tamaahmaah
and the lofty queen Kahumanna, before whom his
father only is allowed to appear uncovered, will
be limited to the hereditary island of Owhyee.
No foreigner, though there are so many among the
most powerful chiefs, and vassals of the kingdom,
can make any claim to govern the natives.

Notwithstanding these approaching political
changes, the Sandwich islands will remain what
they are — the free port and staple of all the navi-
gators of these seas. But should any foreign power
conceive the foolish idea of taking possession of
them, the jealous vigilance of the Americans, who
possess the almost exclusive connnerce of these
seas, and the secure protection of England, would
not be wanting to frustrate the undertaking.
The conquest might indeed be effected. The fort
in the back-ground of the harbour of Hana-rura,

VOL. III.

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24^2

REMARKS AND OPINIONS,

which Mr. Young has erected without judgment, is
merely a square of dry brick wall, without bastions
or towers, and without ditches ; and does not an*
swerthe double intention of the Governor, to defend
himself against an external attack, and an inter-
nal enemy. The fort ought to be regularly built
where it now stands, and there ought to be a bat-
tery on the external edge of the reef, to defend
the entrance of the harbour. Notwithstanding
their stock of ammunition and arms, the natives are
not yet acquainted with the management of artil-
lery, or with our military art. A serious inva-
sion might appear to be decisive ; but the con-
querors would only have conquered the earth for
their grave. This people will not submit to
strangers ; and it is too powerful, numerous, and
martial, to be quickly extirpated, like the natives
of the Mariana islands.

This is the political situation of the Sandwich
islands. What is affirmed in the Missionary Regis-
ter of 1818, p. 52, that a son of Tamori, king of
Atooi, who is at present educated in the school of
the foreign missions in Cornwall, (Connecticut,
North America,) with other Owhyeeans, is the
real heir of all the Sandwich islands, betrays in-
conceivable ignorance.

No missionaries had yet come to the Sandwich
islands ; and, in truth, they could promise them-
selves but little fruit among this sensual people.
Christianity cannot be established in Eastern Poly-

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Qi'S

nesia, but on the overthrow of every thing existing.
We do not doubt the events at Otaheite, but, at
the same time, we cannot conceive them; and M.
Marin, who had previously visited these islands,
told us, what is very clear, that the natives, for the
most part, only visited the missionaries to have the
pleasure of mimicking their customs.

We are indebted to the contributions of William
Mariner, and to the laudable diligence of Dr. John
Martin, for the most valuable addition to the know-
ledge of Polynesia, in the satisfactory " Account
of the Natives of the Tonga Islands, London," 1818.
This important work was not published at the time
of our voyage ; and therefore the want of a
similar work on the Owhyeeans ; the desire tho-
roughly to study the traditions and the history,
the common and religious language ; the religion
and customs, the social habits, and spirit of this
people, as well as the eager wish to examine, on the
mountains of Owhyee, the history of the plants,
and their migrations, urgently induced the na-
turalist of the expedition, on our first visit to
the Sandwich islands, to offer to remain there till
the return of the Rurick. This idea, which would
in the end have been baffled, by the present politi-
cal circumstances, was deemed incompatible with
the object of the expedition. It is now time, under
the protection of the noble-minded Tamaahmaah,
and with the assistance of the Europeans settled
in his kingdom, whose experience and knowledge

R 2

2U

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

would be of great advantage to the learned inqui-
rer, to undertake this work, to commit to writing
what the Owhyeeans know of themselves; for
where monuments and letters are wanting, lan-
guages change under foreign influence, traditions
are lost, manners assimilate, and the European
will one day find on the Sandwich islands, new
Europeans, who will have forgotten their origin
and their ancestors.

Of all the Europeans settled there, M. Marin
appears to possess the most extensive knowledge
of the people of Owhyee. He has studied it in
many respects and had occasion to compare and
enrich his observations on many voyages to other
islands in the South Sea, from Otaheite to tlie
Pelew islands. M. Marin had committed them
to paper, and we regret, with him, the loss of his
MSS. During our first stay at Hana-rura, he
promised to answer in writing several questions we
had put to him, and to give us his remarks on our
return. But we were deceived in the hopes he
had given us reason to entertain. He had not
been able to spare time for this work, and during
our second stay, he was so much engaged witli the
sl.nps lying in the harbour, that we were able to en-
joy his instructive conversation only for a few mo-
ments.

M. Marin regretted the recent death of an old
man at Woahoo who was particularly acquainted
with tlie ancient traditions of his people, and with

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

^•1.5

whom a part of* their traditionary history is proba-
bly lost. These ancient traditions are very dif-
ferently related. There was a flood which covered
every thing, and only the summit of Mouna Roa
rose above the waves. The people saved them-
selves upon it. Previous to this flood there had
been another revolution, by which the earth was
darkened for forty days. Formerly strangers,
whose names are mentioned, arrived in a boat at
the Sandwich islands. M. Marin had heard a
tradition at Otaheite, according to which mariners
of this island, who had been lost at sea, were the
very same who had been thrown upon the Sand-
wich islands.

The relations of social order which are not
founded on written rights and laws, but upon faith
and custom, which are more powerful than force,
may be considered and interpreted in different
ways. M. Marin assumes four casts in Owhyee.
The princes, the nobility, the middling class
(who constitute the great majority of the people)
and the populace, a despised class, which is not
numerous. Formerly every white was considered
as equal to the nobility, now his rank depends
upon his character.

: The word Hieri, jeri, erih, ariki, or hariki
(chief), is best to be translated by lord. The
king is Hieri ei Moku, the Lord of the Island or
Islands. Every powerful prince or chief is Hieri
Niw, Great Lord, and by this title Tamaahmaah,

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24.f)

REMARKS AM) OPINIONS.

Kareimoku, Haullianne (Mr. Young), are called
without distinction.

The land belongs to the lord of the island, the
nobles possess the ground only as fiefs ; the fief's
are hereditary but inalienable, they return to the
king. Powerful nobles may perhaps rebel and
defend what they possess. The right of the
strongest makes the lord of the island. The great
nobles decide their private feuds by arms. These
petty wars, which were formerly very frequent,
seem to have ceased since the year 1798. The
noble leads his people to war : no one who is not a
noble can possess a fief or lead people in war. He
can only be the steward of the estate. Those who
cultivate the land are farmers or peasants of the
feudal lord, or immediately of the king. The
king receives tribute from all the land. Distin-
guished chiefs are placed as governors over dif-^
ferent islands and territories. The people are
almost subject to the arbitrary will of the lord, but
there are no slaves or vassals (Glebce adscripti).

The peasant and the labourer may go wherever
they please. The man is free, he may be killed,
but not sold and not detained. Lords and nobles
without land serve those who are more powerful.
The lord of the island keeps many of them, and
his rowers are exclusively of this class. It is to
be understood, that the casts are so determined,
that it is not possible to go from one to the other.
Nobility which ran bo given and taken away is

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

247

none. The woman does not share the rank of the
husband. The rank of the children is determined
by very fixed and certain hivvs, chiefly after that
of the mother, but also after that of the father.
A noblewoman who marries a man of the lower
class loses her rank as soon as she has children, in
which case she and her children descend to the
cast of the husband. Primogeniture does not de-
termine hereditary right, but in the plurality of
wives the more noble birth by the mother^s side.
The inequality of the nobility, and the difFer<^nt de-
grees of the taboo or sanctity which is due to every
distinguished chief after his birth, without respect
to his power, were not sufficiently explained to us.
The predecessor of Tamaahmaah, in Owhyee^ %vas
taboo to such a degree that he was not allovved
to be seen by day. He only showed himself in tlie
night: if any per&on had but accidentally seen
him by daylight he was immediately put to death ;
a sacred law, the fulfilment of which nothing could
prevent. The human victims, who are here killed
at the death of the king, princes, and distinguished
chiefs, and buri d with their remains, are of the
lowest class. In certain families of this cast tiie
fate of dying with the different members of such
or such a noble family is hereditary, so that it is
known at the birth of a child, at whose dc.>th he
is to be sacrificed. The victims kno-.v fi.eir des-
tination, and their lot does iiot seem to have any
terror for them. The progressive spirit of the timps

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HEM AUKS AND Ol'lNIOXS.

has almost made this custom antiquated, which
will hardly be repeated at the deuth of the most
sacred person. When three victims, on the death
of Kahumnnna's mother, offered themselves to fuU
ill their des. .nation, Kareimoku would not allow it,
and no human blood was shed. Human sacrifices,
it is true, still take place, but it would be unjust to
upbraid the Owhyeeans for them. They sacrifice
culprits to their gods, as we sacrifice them in Eu-
rope to justice. Every land has its peculiar cus.
toms. What were tlie Christians when autos-da^e
were celebrated, and how long have they ceased ?
The custom of eating human flesh had ceased long
before the death of Cook. The last historical
traces of it may be found in the island of Woahoo.
Every great chief has his peculiar gods (yi/iwrt), the
idols of which are represented in his morai. Others
have different ones. The worship of these idols
appears to be more for distinguished parade tliau
religion. The common people must do without
these idols, and they make various creatures, birds,
fowls, &c. for the object of their worshi[). Super-
stition prevails under many forms in the Sandwich
islands. As Kareimoku's guests, we were present
at the celebration of a 2\ibu jwri^ which lasted
from the setting of the sun to suiuise on the third
day. It is already known what degree of sanctity
is imparted to him who joins in this conmiu-
nion with the gods daring the time. Should he
accidentally touch a woman, -ihe nuibt be instantly

THK SANDWICH ISLANDS.

'2PJ

put to death. Should he enter a woman's house,
the flames must immediately consume it. We ex-
pected a certain seriousness during these sacrifices
and prayers ; and were astonished at the profane
disposition which manifested itself; the indecorous
sport that was made witii the idols ; and the tricks
whicli they delighted to play us during the sacred
ceremony. Children show more sedateness in
playing with their dolls.

The restrictive laws of thj taboo*, otherwise
remain in undiminished power. We ourselves saw
the corpse of a woman floating round our ship,
who had been killed, because she had entered the
eating-house of her husband in a state of drunken-
ness. It is, however, said that the women, when
they know they are unobserved, make no difficulty
of transgressing the many prohibitions to which
they are subject. The intercourse with the Euit)-
peans has not yet had any particular influence on

'♦A' "'.V<\

* They are known by the voyages of Cook, Vancouver,
Turnbull, Lisianskoy, &c. Three liouses necessarily belong to
une i'amily; the catnig-house of the men is prohibited (taboo) to
the women. The residence is common : the women's house is
not closed against our sex, but a decorous man will not enter
it. Each sex must dress their own victuah*, and over a peculiar
Hrc. On ship-board the prohibition (taboo) is less rigorous.
The two sexes arc not allowed to partake of the flesh of the
same animal. Hog's-flesh, (not that of dogs, which is equally
valued,) turtle, as also several kinds of fruit, cocoa, banana, &c.
are taboo for the women. The male attendants of the wjimen
are in many respects subject to the oume restrictions ub them-
selves.

Ifri!

250

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

the social order, arts and manners of tliese people.
We have certainly contributed to strengthen
in them only the vices and arts of corruption
which are revolting in these simple people.
Ingens nostratium Lupanar / 2\irpissimis meretri-
cum artibus, fcctidissimis scortorum spurcitiis omnh
instructa estjcemina velmatrona, Omnis abestpudoj\
aperte avideque obtruditur stuprum, jn-ecio^flagitato.
Aperte quisqtie maritus tixorem offe7% obtrudit sol-
venti.

A circumstance which occurred about the year
1807, is differently related by report. We follow
the account of M. Marin.

A nephew of the king had been found in the
arms of the queen Kahumanna. He himself
escaped, but his garment, which he left behind,
discovered him. Three days after this deed,
he was seized and strangled by the nobles of the
kingdom. A soldier on duty announced to the
king the punishment and crime at the same time.
This was the regular order. Tamaahmaah regret-
ted the poor youth, and shed tears.

Compared with our friends in Radack, we found
the Owhyeeans selfish, inelegant, and uncleanly. In
their intercourse with strangers, from whom tliey
hoped to derive advantage, they have lost their
natural hospitality. Their great talent is mimicry,
and habit made it very easy for us to understand
each other. They are an iiiconi|)arably slrongti
people than the Kadackci:?. IKnce arises greaici

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

251

self-confidence, and more unreserved cheerfulness.
The chiefs are, in particular, of the handsomest
and most robust make. The women are handsome,
but not attractive.

Former travellers have observed, that, on the
Sandwich islands, natural deformities iv:e more
frequent than on the other islands of Eastern Po-
lynesia. We saw at Woahoo several individuals
with crooked backs, an idiot, and several people
of one family with six fingers on the hands.

The Owhyeeans are tattooed very little, and ir-
regularly. It is remarkable that this national orna-
ment has borrowed foreign patterns. Goats,
muskets, even letters of the alphabet, name and
birth-place, are frequently tattooed along the arm.
The men shave their beards, and cut their hair in
the form of a helmet, the crest of which is often
bleached, so as to be of a light or whitish colour.
The women have it cut short, keeping only a rim
over the forehead, bleached white with unslacked
lime, and standing up like bristles. Sometimes a
Hue long curl is preserved on the middle of the
forehead, and dyed violet, which is combed back.
To please the Europeans, some suffer their hair to
grow, and tie it up behind in a (/ucuc, resembling
that which was ordered in the regulations of the
Prussian army, in 1800. The Owhyeeans have
in general wisely remained faithful, both to their
national costume, and to their modeof lill'. Their
princes only drcosed themselves in honour of us,

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

with the utmost neatness, in fine Englisli clothes,
and imitated our manners with much propriety.
They are at other times always dressed in their
native costume, and only their foreign guests are
served in porcelain and silver. Fashion reigns
even at Owhyee, with varying caprice, particu-
larly over the women. The ornaments which the
queens and great people wear, immediately increase
extremely in value. Every body has now a look-
ing-glass, and a pipe-head tied round the :ieck in
an European handkerchief. The Europeans are
dressed in the European fashion, and do not un-
cover before those whose rank otherwise requires
this mark of respect.

Many Owhyeeans understand a little English,
but none are proficients in it, not even those who
have made voyages on board American ships,
which a great many have done. None of them
have probably learnt the letters.* It is only our
ships which attract their whole attention. We were
very much surprised to see, at Titatua, some chil-
dren drawing ships with a switch in the sand on
the beach. Two and three masted vessels were drawn
with the greatest accuracy, and provided with the

* Tamaamaah understands English without speaking it. Lio-
Lio learned to write two lines in English, in which he bogged
the captain of a ship to send him a bottle of rum. Louis XIV.
when a child, learned to write: "L'homage est du aux Hois,
lis font ce qu'il leur plait."— (MS. of Dubruwski, collection in
the Imperial Library ut v>t. l*clersburg.)

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Q53

most minute parts of the tackling. The Owliyeeans,
however, build their boats according to the ancient
mode, single or double. Larger double canoes,
belonging to the king, which serve for communi-
cation between the different islands, are rigged
after the European fashion. We must not confound,
with Zimmermann, (in his Australia,) the boats of
Eastern Polynesia (the Friendly, the Sandwich
islands, &c.) which go with oars, and with sails only
before the wind, with the ingenious vessels of the
islanders of the first province (the Ladrones, &c.)
which go with sails only, and with all winds. We
liave been made sufficiently acquainted with the
tbrmer by Cook and other modern navigators, and
with the latter by Dampier, Anson, &c.

Besides navigation, the warlike Owliyeeans take a
pleasure in their weapons, especially their lances.
They delight in warlike games, wliich are not free
liom danger, and even, when children, practise
throwing the dart. The favourite play of the boys
and youths, is to contend in throwing short and ligiit
reeds with which the wind plays, with certainty at
an unsteady mark, and seems to allude to this
weapon. They have but few other sports. Their
game at draughts, which was found among them,
has been su})erseded by the Euiopeaii draughts.

Poetry, music, and dancing, which, in the South
Sea islands, api)ear hand in hand, in their orignal
union, to adorn human life, deserve to be particu-
larly attended to. The spectacle of the Hurra, the

QrA

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

festive dances of the Owliyeeans filled us with
admiration. . , . .

The words mostly celebrate, like the Pindaric Odes,
the fame of some prince. Our knowledge of the
language was not sufficient to judge of their poetry.
The song is in itself monotonous. With the accom-
panying heats of the drum, it measures the turns
of the dance, bearing, as it were, upon its waves a
superior harmony. In the varying dance, the hu-
man form develops itself to this measure, in the
most admirable manner, representing itself in a
constant flow of easy unconstrained motion, in
every natural and graceful position. We fancy
that we see the antique starting into life ; the feet
only bear the dancer. He moves forward with
composure. His body, his arms, all his muscles,
are expressive ; his countenance is animated. We
fix our eyes upon him as upon the Mime wlien
his art transports us. The drummers sit in the
back ground, the dancers stand before them in one
or more rows ; all join their voices in the chorus.
The song is at first slow and piano, and is gradually
and regularly quickened and strengthened, as the
dancers advance, and their action becomes ani-
mated. All execute the same motions. It is as if
the same dancer stood several times repeated be-
fore us. These festal games of Owhyee remind us
of the chorus of the Greeks, of tragedy before the
dialogue was introduced ; and, if we cast a look
upon ourselves, we perceive into what a wrong

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

path we have absurdly strayed, by reducing the
(lance to a motion of mere pleasure. These games
intoxicate the Owhyeeans with joy. Their usual
songs are danced in the same spirit, standing or
sitting J they are of very different characters, but
always accompanied by graceful motions of the
body and the arms. What a school is here opened
to the artist ! What an enjoyment is here offered to
the amateur !

This fine art, the only one of these islanders, is
the flower of their life, which is consecrated to en-
joyment and to pleasure. They live for the pre-
sent moment without calculation of time, and an
old woman knows no more of her age than that she
has lived beyond the first period of enjoyment, be-
yond the age of twelve years.

The Owhyeeans are generally included in the
accusation which our navigators make against the
islanders of the South Sea in general, that of being
addicted to stealing. That we have no reason to
join in this complaint is probably to be ascribed to
the protecting influence of Tamaahmaah, wiiose dis-
interested and noble mind honoured us as the suc-
cessors of Vancouver. The Europeans settled here
give honourable testimony to the honesty of the
natives. They leave their doors and shops un-
locked without aj)prehension. These people only
commit theft on rich strangers, on board well load-
ed ships. How can we expect that our abundance
of iron, this precious metal, should not excite the

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

cupidity of the islanders of the South Sea? " Wty
beholdest thou the mote that is in thy brother* s eye,
and perceivest not the beam that is in thine own eye?"
We do not here allude to the early ages of the
cbnquests of the Spaniards, but we have before our
eyes what deeds rapacious ailventurers have com-
mitted even in our days, in these seas, where our
laws cannot reach them. We have touched upon
many of them in our pages ; others are enveloped
in the gloomy veil of night. It is our duty to be
the advocates of the weaker party. Let our testj.
mony be rejected, but let the accounts of all niari-
ners, wiio have navigated these seas since tliey
were opened to our trade, be impartially examined,
from Vancouver's voyage to Nicolas's New Zea-
land. The reader will judge for himself. While
we condemn and punish, men of our own colour,
unjudged and unpunished, exercise kidnapping,
robbery, cunning, violence, treachery, and murder.
Sciences and arts have given us this power over
our weaker brethren.

The commerce of these seas is said to employ
two hundred North American ships, which number
appears to us, howevei", exaggerated. The princi-
pal branches of it are the smuggling trade on tiie
Spanish coast of both Americas, which is carried
on, upon the Spanish side, by the monks, the fur-
trade of the N. W. coast, the exportation of the
furs collected in the Russian American factories,
the sanders-wood of the Sandwich, Fidji, arid

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

other islands. The field is opened for the boldest
adventurers. They attempt, they pursue new dis-
coveries ; (we remind our readers of the ship,
which, according to Mackenzie's account, was seen
about the year I78O in the Icy Sea ;) they take
Aleutians or Kadiackers to catch the sea-otters on
the coast of California, &c. Canton is the general
market, Hana-rura a free port and staple place.
The captain for the most part manages the busi-
ness, and those disputes are not to be feared,
which frequently happen between the captain and
supercargo, when these two offices are separated.
In the dangerous trade on the N. W. coast there
is no good faith on either side, and they must be
on their guard against the arms which they sell.
Neighbouring tribes are very often engaged in war.
They agree with the leader of one, and deliver to
him his enemy, whom they seek to seize by cun-
ning or violence, for a fixed price. They entice
ciiiefs on board, kidnap them, and restore them to
liberty for a certain ransom, &c. Men also whom
they purchase on the southern coast, they sell to ad-
vantage on the northern. We have mentioned the
kidnapping in the South Sea islands in our article
on Guahon. It was an American, who, in an
island along the coast of California, had all the male
inhabitants driven together, and shot. Captain
Door, (with the Jenny from Boston,) touched i.t
Guahon in 1808, after having taken in a cargo of
sanders-wood in the Fidji islands. He praised

VOL. III. S

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UKMAHKS ANIJ OPINIONS.

to Don Luis dc Torres the kinil ami lios))ital)le
reception he had met with from the natives. In
1812 he made the same voyage in another ship.
On his return, he told Don Luis how hostilely he
liad been received this time, and that he had lost
a mate and four sailors. The natives told him,
that in the course of time they liad become ac-
quainted with the whites, and Iiad resolved lo
show no mercy to them. (Respecting the Fidji
islands, see Mariner's Tonga islands.)

In the burying-place of tlie Euroi)eans, near
Hana-rura, we reail this simple monument on Mr.
Davis.

The remains

of

M. Isaac Davis,

wlio died at this

Island, April 1810,

aged 52 years.

When we hist sailed from Hana-rura, we kit
Mr. Young sinking under the iniirmities of olil
age. IJoth friends, whose united names have (bra
long time been distinguished in tiie history of tlieso
islands, will repose together. The children of
Mr. Young, though heirs to his estates, will be lost
in obscurity among the people, as they were not
born of a noble mother.

The islands which Mr. Johnstone discovered in
1807, on board the frigate Coniwallis, in the
W.S.W. of the Sandwich islands, and whic.h we
looked for in the spring ol" 1817, are, like the

THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Qrji)

island of Sala y Gomez, perfectly naked rocks,
whicli do not seem to belong to the formation of
low islands. The reefs which are united to them
form shoals extending to a great distance from
them, which are very dangerous to vessels that
navigate those seas. . .

; .7

METHODS OF KINDLING HUE.

It , , . ■ ; f

There are various methods of producing fire.

In the Caroline islands, a })iece of wood being
lield fast on the ground, another short piece, about
11 foot and a half long, of the thickness of a thumb,
even as if turned, and with the end bluntly rounded
off, is held pei'pendicularly over it, and put in mo-
tion between the palms of the hand, like the mill
used for making chocolate. The motion is at first
slow, but is accelerated, and the pressure in-
creased, when the dust produced by the friction
collects round the borer, and begins to be ignited.
This dust is the tinder, which takes fire. The
women of Eap are said to be uncommonly clever
at this process.

In Radack and the Sandwich islands they hold
on the under piece of wood, another piece a span
long, with a blunt point, at an angle of about thirty
degrees, the point of the angle being turned from
the person employed. They hold the j)iece of wood
with both hands, the thumbs below, the fingeis
above, so that it mav press firmly and i'(|iial)Iy, and

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

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thus move it backwards and forwards in a straight
line, about two or three inches long. When the
dust that collects in the groove, produced by the
point oi' the stick, begins to be heated, the pres-
sure and the rapidity of the motion are in.
creased.

It is to be observed, that in both methods, two
pieces of the same kind of wood are used; for which
purpose some of equally fine grain, not too hard,
and not too sofl, are the best. Both methods re-
quire practice, dexterity, and patience.

The process of the Aleutians, is the first of
these methods, improved by mechanism. They
manage the upright stick in the same manner as
the gimlet or borer, which they employ in their
work. They hold and draw the string, which is
twice wound round it, with both hands, the upper
end turning in a piece of wood, which they hold
with their mouth. In this way, I have seen a
piece of fir, turned on another piece of fir, produce
fire in a few seconds ; whereas, in general, a much
longer time is required.

The Aleutians also make fire, by taking two
stones, with sulphur rubbed on them, which they
strike together over dry moss, strewed with sul-
phur.

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KAMTSCHATKA,

THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS, AND BEERING*S

STRAITS.

We have cast a look over the waters of the Great
Ocean, and its shores, and viewed the islands situ-
ated in it, between the tropics, from the Indies, as
from the mother country to which they belong,
and wiience organic nature and man have spread
over them.

We now turn from those gardens of pleasure to
the dreary north, in the same ocean basin. The
song is past. A clouded sky receives us on the
very limits of the northern monsoon. We pene-
trate through the gloomy veil, whidi eternally
hovers over these seas, and shores not shaded by a
tree, inhospitably frown upon us, with their snow-
crowned summits.

We shudder to find man also settled here ! •
Tliat part of the land and sea, which we are now

* Homo sapiens habitat intra tropicos palmis lotophagus,
hospitatur extra tropicos sub novercante Cesere carnivorus.—
Lin. Si/st. Nat.

Ipsos Germanos indigenas crediderlm. — Quis — Asia aut Africa
aut Italia relicta, Germaniam peteret ? Intbrmeni terris, aspe-
rum coelo, tristem cultu aspectuque, nisi si patria sit. — Tacii.
iierm, 2.

s 3

Q()\2

IIEMAIIKS AND OPINIONS.

ubout to describe, embraces the cliain of the Fore-
lands, whicli bound the waters of the Great Ocean
to the nortii ; and the sej^«, ishuids, and shores,
which are to tlie nortli of it. . ''

This chain extends from tlie peninsula of
Kamtschatka, on the Asiatic side, by the Aleutian
islands, to the peninsula of Alaska, on the Anieri-
can side, over which peninsula the volcanic
mountainous shores reach to the continent of the
New World. We include among the Aleutian
islands, the whole island-chain, without entering
into their division;^ ; and we also include the small
volcanic islands of St. George and St. Paul lying
out of the line, near to the north of Oonalashka,
which are by some unaccountable means left out
on Arrowsmith's charts, though they are perfectly
known even to English navigators ; for example.
Saner. In the north of the Forelands we met only
with primitive mountains, ice, and alluvial sand. •

The coasts of the two continents run opjiosite
er,ch other; the Asiatic in a north-eastern, the
/ neiican in a northern direction, and form hc-
t\.een high jiromontoriet,, the Asiatic East Cape,
(Vostotschin-oi, or Tschukutskoi-noss,) and the
American Cape Prince of Wales, the strait called

* On the northern ccnist, which we visited, we observed no
trace of the floetz fbrination, which h entirely niixsed in the
hi-j,hest northern hititmles of Enrope. The expedition ol
Captain Koss has pUited the exiblence ollluetz hnjc, in Ualiiii^
iJay, beyond doubt.

KAMTSCIIATKA.

'.>(). J

Beeriiig's Straits. The I)a.sin, which is inclosed in
these coasts and tlie Aleutian islands, is called the
Kamtschatkan Sea. The island of St. Matwey,
(Choris Island,) lies in the middle of it.

The Asiatic coast is high, and washed by a deep
sea. It is indented on the north by the broad and
deep gulf of Anadyr, which is bounded on the
north side by the projecting Tschukutskoi-noss
(Anadirskoy-noss). It is also indented between
the noss (or point,) and Cape East, by Mat-
Schick ma, and St. Lawrence bays. Near to the
Tschukutskoi-noss, and to the south of the strait,
lies the island of St. Lawrence, (Clerke's Island,)
placed before the promontories, which are the pillars
of the entrance, like a half moon before two bastions.
Tile sea has more depth between the island and
the Tschukutskoi-noss, than between it and the
American coast, on which side the passage is
broader and shallower. The eastern part of the
island appears to be a group of rocky islands,
which the low alluvial banks have united into one.
Nome inaccessible rocky islands rise out of the sea,
l)elween St. Lawrence Island and Bcering's Strait,
and in the miiMIe of the strait itself.

The American coast is inaccessible between
Ihistol Day on the south, (to the north of the
peninsula of Alashka,) and Norton Sound on the
north, which, by its situation, corresponds with
the Gulf of Anadyr, on the opposite Asiatic
<.oast. The sea \k\^ no tlcplli, and the waves break

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

before you arc in sight of land. A considerable
stream from the interior of America is said to
empty itself here, and to form sand-banks on tlie
coast.

We penetrated through Bcering's Straits to the
north. The two coasts retire from each other.
Cook saw the Asiatic coast, as far as the North
Ca])e, under (18" 5(V north latitude ; the American,
as far as the Icy Cape, 70° 29' north latitude. Low
alluvial ground forms the shore before the high
lands of America, and the sea which washes it has
no depth. According to Cook, the Asiatic coast
is of the same natme. Tlie land seems to gain
upon the sea by the alluvion of sand ; and it is to
be feared that it will gradually fill up this sea.

The sandy coast of America is indented by
many inlets and friths. We lefl the southern
Schischmareff Bay unexplored, and penetrated
into the broud Kotzebuc's Sound, which, to the
south of tile high Cape Mulgrave, runs in a south-
eastern direction into the ])rimitive land, and the
back of wjjich aj)|)roaclios to Norton Sound, which
runs in from the soutlicrn part of Beering's
Straits. * A frith, whicli opens in alhivial land, on
tlie soutlieni side of Kot/eb»ie*s Sound, and leads
into the open sea in a voyage of nine days, in the
baydares of the natives, which we call the Bay ol"

* Compare the nccounts collecJcd hy Kohcicr, in 177«>,
.uiumg ilu; 'r.sfhukulskj.i, aiiii \\\v lali-r |{uM,ian cliurth, wliicli
AniHVMiiiJli iinil oIIkt giM»f;raplu'i>, lollow.

KAMTSCHATKA.

'205

Good Hope, may probably unite both, aiul divide
Cape Prince of Wales from the continent, and
make it into an island ; for this inlet seems too
near to Schischmareft* Bay, to suppose that its
course, as described by the natives, can lead into
the latter.

To the north of Beering's Strait, lies before us
the still unexplored field of the last important pro-
blems in geography ; and we are called upon to
give our opinion on them at a time when several
expeditions are fitting out to examine into the facts,
and our voice expires unheard. We proceed with
hesitation to this task.

Are Asia and America separated ? and is the sea
into which you penetrate through Beering's Strait
to the north, the great Icy Sea itself? or, is this
basin a Bay of the Southern Ocean, bounded and
surrounded by the coasts of the two uniting
quarters of the globe in the north ?

Can a north-west passage be possible, from the
waters of Hudson's and Baffin's Bay, along the
north coast of America to Beering's Strait ?

Can it be possible to come into Beering's Strait
from the Atlantic Ocean, northwards of Spitzber-
gon, and even over the north pole itself? and is
llicre an open navigable polar sea, or a polar gla-
cier of firm solid ice ?

A man, whose name inspires us with the greatest
respect, who is ecpially distinguished by learning
and sound criticism, who was himself a companion

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UEMAKKS AND ONNIONS.

of Cook in his second and third voyage, wlio futs
repeatedly navigated the South Pohir Ocean, ami
the sea to the north of Beering's Strait, James
Burney, is incUned to suppose that Asia aiu)
America are united, and parts of one and the same
continent. *

We confess that Captain Burney has not gained
us over to his opinion. In his* Chronological His-
tory of Nortli-Eastern Voyages, we find the histori-
cal testimonies that bear upon this question treated
witli the greatest freedom, and refer to it with en-
tire confidence.

That Sanioen Desclniew, in his celebrated
voyage from th<^ Colima or Kovima, to the Anadyr,
in KilH, did not, in reality, double tlie north-east
cape (Schehitzkey, or Swoetoy-noss, the great cape
of the Tschiikutskoi,) but crossed it by land,
over a narrow isthmus, as was sul^sequently done
by Staras Staducliin, appears to us an arbitn»ry as-
sumption, wiiich the accounts do not authorize,
and which is siifKciently refuteil by Desclmew's
intention to build a ship at the mouth of the Ana-
dyr, to send back the extorted tribute to Jakutzk,
by the same way.

♦ A Memoir on the CJco^rapliy of the Noiili-Eastcni |mil«»l
Asia, ami o\\ the ([ueHtion whether Asia and America arc con-
tiguous, or are separated hy the Sea. Hy Captain .lanu.-*
Hurney. — Philosophical 'J'ransactiiMis, ]Hl^, refuted in the
(iuarlcrly Review, .Iiine 1818.

A Chronological History ol' the Norlh-Eastern Voyages ol
Dibcovery, hy Captain James Ihirncv, F.K.S. London, 18II>.

KAMTSCHATKA,

26'7

Kvcii if the documents, of which Miillcr, Coxe,
and I'allas were in possession, and from wliicli they
comnHuiicated to us Deschnew*s voyage, were lost,
these men api)ear to us sufficient sureties, and we
unhesitatingly receive their authority j that in this
one case the north-east cape, or Schelatzkoy-noss,
was doubled by sea.

Other accounts and traditions of a similar
voyage appear to ourselves unauthorized. We
readily credit the statement of Dauerkin, commu-
nicated to us by Sauer, that Schalauroff perished, in
KiOl', in the Icy Sea, and not at the mouth of the
Anadyr ; and we have no faith in the voyage of
Laptiew, in 17^0, as it is pretended to be related,
according to Gmelin's verbal declarations in tl\e
Memoires et Observations Geographiques et Cri-
tiques sur la situation des pays septentrionaux. Lau-
sanne, 17^».5, I'to. p. 4^2.

The Euroj)ean harpoons, found sticking in
whales, l>y Hendrick Hamel, on the coast of Corea,
in U')5S, and again, in 171^>» hy Henry Busch, on
the coast of Kamtschatka, appear to us of some
moment. Burney, in opposition to Miiller assumes
that Busch merely repeated what Hamel saw, and
this supposition appears to us very arbitrary. He
is i'arther of opinion, that the Russians, long before
the time of Busch, may hrvc introduced the use of
liiuopean harpoons on those coasts ; but this we
know, Irom our own knowledge, not to be the case.
I'lie Uussiauf^, weak in numbei in this part of the

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IlEMAllKS AND OPINIONS.

world, appropriate to themselves the fruits of the
industry of the people whom they conquer, with-
out bringing them new ones ; and whales are pur-
sued to this day by the natives of the Aleutian
islands, only after the old manner, with their own
harpoon. Every other confirmation of the fact
would be useless.

We find, out of the limits of Burney's works,
another fact, which Barrow has not mentioned in
his Chronological History of Voyages to the Arc-
tic Regions, Lond. 1818, and which appears to us
to require some attention.

According to the accounts collected by Macken-
zie, at the mouth of the river called after his name,
a ship, or very large boat, manned with white
men, visited this coast towards the year I78O, and
the Esquimaux procured iron from it in exchange
for skins. Mackenzie River seems to discharge
itself into the sea, between two very far projecting
tongues of land. The sea on the west, in which
the ship appeared, has received from this circum-
stance the name of BelhouUai* Tou, White Man's
Sea. It seems natural for us to imagine that tliis
ship reached that spot through Beering's Straits.

There is indisputably a northern current in
Beering*s Strait itself, at least during the summer
months. AVe found this current pretty strong on
the Kith of August, on the Asiatic side of the
strait. Its effects carried us considerably back,
when we came out of the strait to double Cape

17

KAMTSCHATKA.

m)

East; and, in this, our experience perfectly
coincides with that of Cook and Gierke. But it
is just at this season of the year, in which the
melting snow on the shore must necessarily pro-
duce a southern current, if this sea formed a
closed basin. As the streams in Switzerland,
which descend from the glaciers of the Alps, swell
and become more rapid in summer, the water in
this basin must increase in the same season,
from a similar cause, and flow out of its propor-
tionably narrow and shallow entrance.

Other facts also prove the northern current in
Beering's Strait. On the breaking up of the ice in
the sea of Kamtschatka, the icebergs and fields of
ice do not drift, as in the Atlantic, to the south,
nor do they drive to the Aleutian islands, but into
the strait to the north. On the 5th of July I8I7,
the ice had broken up on the southern coast of
St. Lawrence Island, and wc came there on the
10th, without having met with drifting ice. It was
not till the night of the 1 1th, that we found this
ice, as we approached the east point of the island
towards the north. On this side of the island, the
seu is not so deep, and the current less violent than
on the Asiatic side.

It is to be observed, that in tlsc Sea of Kamt-
schatka, the south winds prevail during the summer,
and the north winds set i!i about September, and
continue during the autumn. The influence of
the winds on the currents cannot he denied.

(>

.>70

nr^rAnKs and opinions.

Srit

!»'■

The quantity of drift wood wliicli the sea brinn^s
to the north, and casts up, and among winch tlicrc
are decidedly southern kinds of trees, as well as
northern firs * ; the seeds of well known southern
sihquose plants, which are washed on the shores of
Oonalashka, as well as of Radack, (though less
numerous t,) cannot make us conclude with cer-
tainty, on a general motion of the waters of the
Great Ocean, towards the north. On the one
side, northern trees are thrown up at Radack, as
well as southern ones at Oonalashka, and on the
other side, as Beering*s Strait decidedly offers
too small an outlet for such a current, it seems to
us more natural to sujipose, according to theory,
in case the fact was decided, that a double cur-
rent takes place in the sea, as in the atmosphere.
An uj)per one of the warmed lighter water towards
the north, and an under one of the cold heavier
water to tlie equator.

t] (

* We have seen at Oonalashka some joiners' work, in which
only the drift wood thrown upon the shore ol' tlicse islands was
used, and which was distin<fuished for the great variety of
heuutiful species of wood. But the high north produces only
I)irehes and tirs, and here, only far in the interior of the con-
tinent. We saw on the same island a large wrought block of
caniphire wood, which had likewise been cast up by the scii.
The traces of the hand of nian necessarily weakens it evi-
dence. It might have been brought by some sinp.

f They were eagerly sought by the Aleutians, as a particular
superstition was attached to tluse snimnii)i<r slones. They art-
aid to be nwrv nmnerously washed up «»n the eastern coast of
the island.

KAMTSCHATKA.

v}7l

The inhabitants of tlie Aleutian islands, of St.
(.jiwrcnce Island, and of the shores of Beering's
Straits, possess no other than drift wood. It is
thrown up in different quantities in different years.
It is to be observed that it is washed more to the
American coast than to the Asiatic. In Kot-
zehue's Sound, we found it in large quantities, and,
oil the other hand, there was a scarcity of it in
St. LawTence Bay, where the Tschukutskoi burnt
oiilv moss and a little willow brush-wood. It mijrht
1)C asked, whether the accounts of forests on the
opposite coast, might not refer as well to the drifl-
wo(k1, in which they abound, as to the forests of
Norton Sound, and the interior ?

The alluvial sand hills on the American coast
contain branches of trees and wood, of the same
kind as that thrown up on the siiore.

Tile drift wood of the north appears to us in
•general to be brought from the interior of the
continent, by rivers and currents, and in the seas
which we describe, to come particularly from
America. Perhaps the river which flows into the
sea between Bristol Bay and Norton Sound may
l)e one of the most considerable sources.

The currents in the Icy Sea, along the coast of
Siberia, are in general but little known, and we
lit'sitate to draw conclusions from uncertain inform-
ation. Liachoif and Sclialauroft' found the current
lorun west to the north of the Yana and theColima,
Saucr and Billing, in a west wind, east, and in a

272

PlZMAnKS AND OPINIONS.

north-east wind, west. In Waigatz Strait, and to
the north of Nova Zembla, the current appears to
be likewise west. •

After we have tried to prove tliat a current goes
to tlie north, through Beering's Strait, we must
confess, that it is too weak, and can force but
too Httle water through the narrow entrance, to cor-
respond with those currents which flow from Davis'
Strait, and along the east coast of Greenlaiul
towards the south, as tliey are acknowledgcil to
do during the season when these seas are open to
navigation, and as many tiicts permit us to iiil'er
that they continue also in winter. *

The indications of land to the r orth of Bcering's
Straits, the fliglit of the birds from the nortli to
the south, and the not increasing depth of the sea
towards the north, from which Burney concludes
the union of the two continents, seem to us suf-
ficiently explained, by the supposition that islands,
such as Liachofi'*s islands opposite the mouth of
the Yana in the Icy Sea, might lie in this vicinity.
The inhabited land of Andreef, or Andreanoil) to
the north of the Colima, 1702, and the reports
and traditions that it extended from tiie continent
of America, as far as the new Siberia of Sannikofi',
1805, (the most eastern of LiachofPs islands,) ap-
pear to us equally unauthorized ; and Burney him-
self lays no stress upon them.

Quarterly llevicw, Junt" 1818, p. l-iO.

KAMT^CIIATKA.

'27ri

We are therefore of opinion that the two conti-
nents are separated, and consider the north-east cape,
or Schelatzkoy-Boss, not to be an isthmus which
unites both quarters of the globe, but merely a
promontory of Asia, (like Cape Taimura between
the Jenisei and the Lena, wliich was gone round
and recognized only by Chariton Laptiew, in 1738,
and that only by land.) The doubling of this
promontory by sea has been prevented by the ice,
and the examination of it by land, by the warlike
independent people of the Tschukntskoi, since the
time of Deschnew. Billing, whose instructions
ordered him to solve this problem, by sea or by
land, and who found all circumstances favourable,
inexcusably neglected it.

We now turn to the north coast of America.

The North Cape of Cook, Mackenzie's River, the
Copper-mine River of Hearne, are points that give us
the principal direction, which runs nearly under tlic
seventieth degree of north latitude. The accounts
and charts of the Indians of Hudson's Bay, which
all agree in continuing the coast of Copper-mine
River northwards to Repulse Bay ; the north-west
current, and the same direction of the swell in
Baffin's Bay, according to older authorities ; the
currents and tides in R»es Welcome ; all circum-
stances concur to make us infer the connection of
the sea and the separation of the land, and we
seek the channel northwards of Repulse Bay, as

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

far as Sir James Lancaster's Sound.* Captain John
Ross, whose voyage confirms Baffin's former dis-
coveries, affirms that he proved the connection of
land in Baffin's Bay, against which, many persons
who accompanied the same expedition, openly de-
clared a contrary opinion, (the commander of the
other ship. Lieutenant W. E. Parry, the learned
Captain E. Sabine, the surgeon A. Fisher, &c.)
and the often disputed question remains still un-
decided, t There remains, in every case, the coast
from the entrance of Cumberland Strait to Re-
pulse Bay still to be examined. '^ *

But whether the passage in the favourable season
can be found open and free from ice, whether the
north coast of America, in its whole extent, and
with its promontories, if there are any such, can

* On the other side, whales, which have been harpooned near
Spitsbergen, and which were found in the same season in Davis'
Strait, as well as other circumstances, have given weight to the
conjecture that Greenland is an island, or a group of islands.

f John Ross, Voyage of Discovery, &c. London, 1819.

The Quarterly Review, May 1819, p. 313., blames Ross for
not having properly examined the promising Lancaster Sound.
« There occur unfortunate moments in the history of a man's
life, when he is himself unable to account for his actions, and
the moment of putting about the Isabella would appear to be
one of them." p. 351.

Modern Voyages and Travels. London, 1819. The Journiil
of Mr. Fisher.

Blackwood's Magazine, December 1818.

Captain E. Sabine. Journal of Literature, &c. April 1819.

The same. Remarks on the late Voyage of Discovery.

. The Explanation of Captain Ross, &c. ..f,, >

KAMTSCHATKA.

275

be navigated as the Asiatic coast has been, in
places, and at difterent times, is a question which
we must leave undecided. The sea can be open
but a few days in these high latitudes, and all
circumstances combine to render discoveries more
difficult, and to lessen their certainty. During
the summer season a thick fog hangs over the sea,
which only dissolves when it is driven by the wind
over the warm land, and you do not behold at sea
the sun which shines upon the coast.*
We observe, that that part of the American

•i

* We observed this phenomenon particularly at St. Lawrence
Island, at Oonalashka, in the bay of Avatschka, and at San
Francisco.

The phenomenon of the parhelia, which is said to be often
seen in the north of the Atlantic Ocean, is rare in the sea of
Kamtschatka. We did not observe it ourselves, and a Russian
who has grown old in the Aleutian islands never saw it more
than once in his whole life. •'

We observed the phenomenon of the mirage, the most re-
markable in Beering's Strait, and particularly at the entrance of
SchischmareiF Bay, where it surrounded us with manifold
deceptions on shore, and on the sea, at all times of the day, like
an enchantment. (Compare Capt. lloss's Voyage, p. 147.) The
objects lying on the horizon seem to separate themselves from
it, and to rise above it ; (generally about three to five minutes,
measured by a sextant,) they are reflected in the circle which
is caused by their distance from the horizon, and seem to be
prolonged by their reflected image. The causes of this pheno-
menon appear to us to have lain rather in localities than in the
change of the atmosphere, and we have observed it in different
sones with tolerable constancy, in the same place; for example,
in the harbour of Hana-rura, (with the prospect towards the
west,) in the Bay of Manilla, &c. but never in the vicinity of
low islands.

T a

J!

?^6

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

coast which we examined to the north of Beering'e^
Straits, appeared to us to excite the hope of finding
a channel, among the entrances and friths which
intersect it, which might lead to the Icy Sea, to-
wards the mouth of the Mackenzie River, without
doubling the Icy Cape, which would then be part
of an island.* The already mentioned account of
a ship in this sea^ leads us even to conjecture that
such a channel has been already navigated.

It now remains for us to discuss the last
question.

Blocks of rock, which are frequently observed
on floating ice-bergs of the north, and other in-
dications, teach us that these ice-bergs were origin-
ally formed next the land, and it has been attempted
to prove, by scientific reasoning and experiments,
that ice cannot be formed, except in the con-
tiguity of land, and that an open deep sea, without
land or islands, cannot freeze, but must be found
open and navigable at all times. We have to
oppose only one fact against this notion, which, in
our opinion, has been too little regarded ; it is
the state of the sea round the south pole, unless,
by a very arbitrary supposition, to which nothing-
entitles us, we should represent the southern fields

* Several journals liave published a letter from the author of
these articles, (San Francisco, New California, on the 28th of
Oct. 1816,) in which this opinion was delivered. An error oi'
the copyist has altered the sensi, so as to make it seem us it
this entrance had really been exvimined by us.

KAMTSCHATKA.

277

of ice, as attached to an undiscovered, inaccessible
continent. In its whole extent, land has been seen
only in one point, namely, tlie Sandwich Land,
and this, it is to be presumed, is like New Georgia,
an island of inconsiderable extent, thrown up in
the wide desert of the southern ocean.

We cannot attach any belief to an open north
polar sea.

The mass of evidence collected by Barrington
and Beaufoy*, though each might be separately
disputed, appears to us to prove, incontestibly, that
in favourable years, the sea to the north of Spitz-
bergen may be found entirely free from ice, and
open for navigation to very high latitudes, as it
really was found in 1754, 1773, and other years.
But it equally proves, that in other years, and
frequently, the ice has hindered, and will hin-
der the advance to the north, even under the
eightieth degree of latitude.

If to the north of Scandinavia, between Spitz-
bergen and Nova Zembla, the sea is sometimes
found open under very high latitudes, perhaps
under the pole itself, while in other points, for
instance, to the north of Beering's Strait, it is,
perhaps, seldom found free from ice, even under
the seventieth degree j if in the north of Europe
the polar glacier, in which we believe, may be

* The possibility of approaching the North Pole asserted,
by Barrington. A new edition, with an Appendix, by Beaufoy.
London, 1818.

T 3

t^78

KEMAUKS AND OPINIONS.

hollowed out by a deep inlet penetrating towards
the pole, we are of opinion that these anomalies
must be attributed to local circumstances, which
cause the temperature, and, probably, to those
that produce the much warmer climate, which
that part of the world that we inhabit is known to
enjoy, beyond all other countries of the northern
hemisphere, under the same degree of latitude,
which give woods and corn to Lapland, as far as
to the seventieth degree, and support vegetation
in Spitzbergen, even to the eightieth degree, and
make that country able to maintain numerous
herds of rein-deer, which the desert and naked
Nova Zeinbla is unable to suppoit.

At a time when men, like Humboldt, Buch,
Wallenberg, &c. are labouring to increase the
mass of exj>erience, and a Humboldt attempts to
look over, to investigate, and to bring under one
law, the fragments of local meteorological observa-
tions which we now possess, as scanty contributions
to physical geography; to draw isothermal lines
over the globe ; let us be permitted to submit to
the examination of natural philosophers, an hypo-
thesis for the explanation of the phenomenon.

i »We ask whether the theory which explains the
sea and land breezes on the coasts, alternating by
day and night, the local summer and winter mon-
soons, and, lastly, the general trade-winds, might

not suffice in most cases, to explain the local dii-
ferences of climate under the same latitude ?

KAMTSCHATKA.

!^7i>

When we cast our eyes upon the globe, it ap-
pears to us that the twofold current of the atmo-
sphere, from the equator to the poles, in its uppei*
regions, and from the poles to the equator, in its
lower region, determined in their direction by the
rotation of the earth on its axis, must bring over
Europe, from the interior of Africa, which is
scorched by the sun, a current of air far more
heated in proportion, than over any other country
in the world. We consider the continent lying to
the south and S.W. of Europe, between the line
and the northern tropic, as a furnace which heats
the air that passes over it, and determines its
climate ; a furnace such as no other part of the
earth enjoys ; and we think, in general, that con-
tinents lying between the equator and the tropics,
must give to the more eastern parts of the world,
towards the pole, a warmer climate than other
parts have under the influence of similarly situated
seas. ^^ ' ■'* ' ^ ' .

This is not the place farther to develop and
discuss this idea, or to submit a new theory to
calculations, and try it by the touch-stone of facts
still imperfectly known. We only wished to point
out the thought which struck us, passing travellers,
in the north of the Great Ocean, at the sight of the
wintry Aleutian islands, (under the latitude of Ham-
burg) and the coasts of Beering's Straits, (under
the latitude of Drontheim and Norway. We shall

'if\

i,

f.*'

T 4

Si

^

280

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

now endeavour to bring these countries nearer
to the reader's observation.

The points at which we stopped and endeavoured
to investigate nature, are the following, from
south to north :

The protected harbour of St. Peter ; , , , , ., .
: and St. Paul, in the interior of ,.

' the bay of Avatscha, on the east > , :
• coast of Kamtschatka - - 53** 1' N. Lat.
Oonalashka,one of the Fox islands, j .; ,;
. and in the line of the Aleutian

islands, situated east of America 54 00
The island of St. George - - - 56 42
And the island of St. Paul, in the
. sea of Kamtschatka, north of

Oonalashka - - - - 57 5
The South Cape, of the island of

St. Lawrence, in the year 1817 C2 47
And another part of the same if..,

island, in 1816 - - - 63 13
St. Lawrence Bay, on the Asiatic . r? ?j ; '
, coast, to the back of which we • f-

penetrated by land - - - 65 35
The entrance of Schischmareff

Bay, on the American coast - 66 13
The Rocky Island, in the interior
. of Kotzebue's Sound - - 66 13
and several points, lying a few minutes farther to
the north, on the shores of this sound.

We have beheld at St. Peter and St. Paul, from the

KAMTSCHATKA.

281

29th of June to the 13th of July, 1816, the first
dawn of spring. The year was backward; the
early Anemones and Corydales were only in their
first blossom ; the snow melted on the hills, well
covered with vegetation, which entirely surround
the harbour, and they gradually assumed their
verdure. At the time of our departure, the first
roses were blowing, the first blossoms of the rhodo-
dendron, the lilies, &c. and the snow still crowned
the mountains and covered the bases of the high
volcanic pyramids, which tower above the land,
and have been trigonometrically measured by
the indefatigable Horner. The season was un-
favourable ; and we do not flatter ourselves with
being able to extend the scanty knowledge which
we have of the nature of this country. We refer
to KrascheninikofT, Pallas, Steller (Description of
Kamtschatka, Frankfort, 111^)^ Lesseps, and
other travellers. Krusenstern affords, in other
respects, complete information, in his account of
Kamtschatka.

The bay of Avatscha lies between the latitude
of Berlin and Hamburg ; and the harbou^ of St.
Peter and St. Paul, in the interior of it, se'^ms to
be as little exposed to the influence of the sea-
wind, as the interior of the friths of Nordland.
The birch still grows here in the form of a tree,
but stunted and unlike the slender beautiful trees
which we admire in the north of Europe, and par-
ticularly about St. Petersburg. Pimis Cembra,

I'

'1'

282

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

which, on our Alps, grows higher than the Pinus
AbieSy and marks the limits of trees, Sorbus aucii-
paria, Alnus incana, and several willows, retain the
form of shrubs. Timber is obtained from the
interior of the peninsula, which enjoys a milder
climate than the east coast ; and the seeds of the
Pinus Cembra, which we meet with on the tables
of the Russians, come from Siberia, by way of
Ockotzk.

Grasses and herbs grow with great luxuriance,
on a rich soil, in a damp atmosphere. There are
but a few kinds of plants, and they are every where
equally distributed. In shady places grow Spiraea
Kamtschatica, Allium ursinurriy Mayanthemum cana-
dense, Uvularia amplea;ifblia, a Trillium obovatum,
(of Pursch), &c. On the plains, a Veratum, Lilium
Kamtschaticum, Iris sibirica, &c. On rocky hills
Caprifolia, Spiracece, roses, Atragene alpina and
alpine plants, such as Rhododendron Kamtschati-
cum, Empetrum nigrum, Trientalis Europcea, Linnea
borealisy Comus suecica, Saxyragce, &c. Several
ferns, by their number, constitute a considerable
part of the vegetation. There are some Orchideoe.
Urtica dioica is evidently imported, but become
naturalized. ' * '* ''^ '- ' "■ '

We are of opinion that summer corn would
thrive in St. Peter and St. Paul, as in Lapland,
under the seventieth degree, and in the valleys of
the Savoy Alps, (au Tour, &c.) In its absence, the
potatoe grows tolerably, though it produces but

KAMTSCHATKA.

2H3

small roots, and this root, which supplies the great-
est part of Europe in the place of corn, might be
here of the greatest importance. Brandy might
be distilled from it, and provide for the chief want
of this colony. But there is still a greater want of
hands and industry than of productions and pro-
ductive power in the earth, and even what has
once been undertaken with advantage, as, for
instance, the boiling of salt, is neglected. Kru-
senstern justly observes, that the earth is cultivated
too late. The mountain of transition slate, which
separates the harbour from the bay of Avatscha,
has slate wliich would conveniently supply the
town with stone for building ; and lime might be
burned out of shells, if lime-stone cannot be found.

Innumerable smoking volcanoes rise along the
ridge, which, extending between two continents,
in the form of an arch, constitute the chain of the
Aleutian islands, and tower, in pyramidical forms,
above the clouds. Tom, rugged rocks, form, in
broken lines, the ridge which unites these threat-
ening colossuses. The ridge appears to decline,
from the American continent, over the peninsula
of Alashka; and the chain of islands towards Asia.
These islands become of less extent towards the
west, and less frequent, and the last of them,
Beering's Island, inclines in a gentle slope towards
the Kamtschatka coast. , ^^

The two peaks of the peninsula of Alashka are
of extraordinary height. The first, in the north.

m

I

^284

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

east, which fell in some years ago during an
eruption, still appears, with its truncated summit,
to be the highest. The next following, a sharp-
pointed cone, is evidently considerably higher than
the peak of Oonemak, and this, which seems to
exceed the mountain Mackuschkin, in Oonalashka,
and the similar summits of the nearest island, is
1175 toises high, according to the measurement of
M. Von Kotzebue. The snow entirely covers the
cone, and its basis, after a rough estimate, on the
two upper thirds of its height, and descends down
still farther to the shore in many places. "^

• The sight of this mountain leaves an extraor-
dinary impression behind. The eye which has
accustomed itself, in our Alps, to use the line of
snow as a rough approximation, can with diffi-
culty, withstand the deception of over-rating the
heights of these summits. * The line of snow which
Wahlenberg has observed in the Swiss Alps, at
1371 toises, and in the Lapland mountains, at 555
toises, and Leopold Von Buch, at Mageroe, 71"
north latitude, at 333 toises, might, according to our
rough estimate, descend over these islands to about
400 or 300 toises ; and separated summits, which
do not attain this height, are covered with snow on
their tops, and in clefls and openings of their

* From the same cause there was an opposite effect in Tene-
riffe. The peak, which was scarcely touched by the snow
when we saw it, did not make the impression on us which its
great height gave us reason to expect.

■-J.'^H».'JL.'^.' SMJLgsasm

KA>ITSCHArKA.

Qsr,

sides. In the autumn of I8I7 the snow had re-
mained in many places where it had vanished in
the autumn of 18 16. The sources in the low valleys
of Oonalashka, w^hich we examined towards the
beginning of July I8I7, showed us the temperature
of* tlie earth between 38" and 39° of Fahren-
heit.* i, ..;!■ - _

Granite is found at Oonalashka. The moun-
tains of the interior, to the left of the valley, which
goes from the chief settlement to Makuschkin, are
of granite. Otherwise, on all the shores of the
Great Bay, on the road to Makuschkin, and even
at Makuschkin itself, we found only clay porphyry,
passing on the one hand, and principally, into
amygdaloid, and on the other hand into green-
stone, imperfect conglomerate porphyry, and real
conglomerate. r -(^»' ; j

These kinds of rock lie over one another in im-
mense strata, not much inclined, and alternating
apparently without any law. The stratification is
to be seen only at a distance, in the profile of the
mountains. These porphyries offer only large sharp-
cornered, pointed, acicular shapes, and only where

* We regret that the state of our meteorological instruments,
of which we had already lost several, and to preserve the last
of which was our duty, hindered us from repeating our observ-
ations, and bringing our results to a satisfactory conclusion ;
for this cause we were unable to use the barometer for taking
the altitudes.

•I.

II

in I' irJ

1

I

286

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

they conglomerate, rounded forms, as granite
frequently does. *

Out of several places in these porphyry moun-
tains break hot springs, the water of which is
tasteless and without smell, and deposits upon the
stones a slight covering of yellowish-brown stalac^
tite. Dr. Esciischoltz found the temperature of
one of these springs, which rises in a meadow in a
valley, opposite to the entrance of the harbour,
between 93° and 91* Fahrenheit. The stagnant
water of several brooks, in the same meadow, de-
posits a bright yellow sulphureous sediment. The
water of the spring already mentioned, and another
on the island of Akutan, in which meat was
thoroughly boiled in a short time, seemed to the
Doctor to be distinguished by a greater quantity
of lime in the water, than in common springs.
Another hot spring flows from a layer of real con-
glomerate, near Makuschkin at the foot of an insular
detached hill, of inconsiderable height, on the sea-
beach, below high-water mark. The strata lying
on it, of which the hill consists, afford the usual
varieties of clay porphyry.

The Makuschkaia-sobka continues to smoke
without any eruption, and the Aleutians procure
sulphur out of it. We did not penetrate to the

, • ,.._'■'.-. ■ ., ■ .,.,■ ,-' ...., ., .. .

• We are indebted to Professor Weisz for most of the
geognostical remarks occuring in these essays, and who has had
the kindness to examine witli the author all the specimens of
rock.

13

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KAMTSCHATKA.

287

separate enormous mass of rock which bears this
fiery crater; and in the two parts of the island
through which we traversed met with no real lava.

Iron pyrites deceived the rapacity of the first
discoverers at Oonalashka, as in so many parts of
the world, who mistook it for gold. ' ■ >

At Oonalashka we procured petrified wood,
fragments of large dicotyledon stems, which were
said to have been procured from the bed of a lake
in Umnack, which had dried up in consequence of
an earthquake. The volcanoes of this island are
particularly active, and the stones thrown up by
tliem have in later times filled up a channel which
was formerly navigable.

The new island which rose from the waves in
the year 1795, in the neighbourhood of Umnack
and Oonalashka, and of the origin of which Langs-
dorff gives an account, is said to be already cover-
ing with vegetation.

Trees are still found on the peninsula of
Alashka, and on the neighbouring island of Oone-
mak, which is separated from it by a narrow chan-
nel, and which seems to pailake of the nature oi^
the continent. Oonalashka, and the other islands
of the chain, are entirely destitute of them. It
has been attempted to plant pines, a kind o£ Abies,
brought from Sitka, at Oonalashka ; most of tliem
have perished, the others seem scarcely to tlirive,
but the plantation is still young, and it is well
known how ill coniferous trees bear transplanting.

t

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

11

At Oonalashka, where we resided at three dif-
ferent times, in spring and autumn, we were par-
ticularly engaged in studying its Flora ; and this
island will serve as a point of comparison for the
other more northern countries which we visited.

At Oonalashka (under the latitude of Lubeck),
the willows in damp places scarcely rise above the
luxuriant growth of grass and herbs. Immedi-
ately you ascend from these plains to the next
hills, you find an entirely alpine Flora, and only
some kinds of Vaccinium myrtillus grow as shrubs
in the lowest region of the mountains. Otherwise
a damp atmosphere nourishes the verdant mantle
of the earth, up to the more naked rocky summits
and to the shining snow ; and several fine plants
adorn this gloomy world with an admirable splen-
dour of colour. (Lupinus nootkaensis, Mimulus
luteus, Pursch. Guttatus, Willd. En. Sup., Epilo-
hium angustfjblium et latifolium. Rhododendron
Kamtschaticum, &c.) The fresh verdure of the
meadows reminds us of the valley of Urseren.

The Flora seems to have no other affinity to that
of St. Peter and St. Paul, than that which it de-
rives from the general alpine or arctic Flora, and
the strand Flora of these northern coasts. Besides
such plants as we again met with in higher north-
ern latitudes, we observed at both places only the
Lilium Kamtschaticum (if the variety at Oona-
lashka is not a peculiar species) and the Uvularh
amplextfoUa ; and, on the contrary, found on the

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KAMTSCHATKA.

289

American coast, to the north of Beering's Strait,
several species of Kamtschatka plants, which we
did not see at Oonalashka. It is tlie Flora of the
north-west coast of America, which extends to the
foot of the hills of this island, where it unites
with that of the arctic regions.

We mention as examples, Rubus spectabilis, Lu-
pinusNootkaensis (which, though stunted, grows up
the mountains), ^/?i7o^m7w luteum, and Mimulus gut-
tatus, Willd. * The Claytonia Unalaschensis, Fish.
Siberica hort. (Alcinoides, Pursch.?) might per-
haps be also enumerated here. Sanguisorba cana-
densis, Lithosperam angustifolium, &c.; belong to
the general Flora of America.

Many kinds of grass flourish in the low places ;
with them several Umbellatce, Angelica, Heracleum,
&c. ; a dozen of Carices scarcely make a more con-
siderable part of the vegetation than in the north
of Germany: several Scirpus and Eriophorum
accompany them ; the Junci combine with them
in a proportion of about one to two. The Orchi-
deo! maintain a considerable rank, as well by the
number of their species, as of the individuals, in
the Flora of the vallies and the mountains j we
counted eleven of them, among which a beautiful
Cypripedium was the most distinguished. We did
not observe a single plant of this family higher to

m

\h\

* The seed of this plant, which is cultivated in the botanic
garden at Berlin, is said to come from Lake Baikal (?)

VOL. III. U

290

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

the north. There are about eight species of fern ;
farther north we met with only one Filia:, and this
no more than once. Several Lycopodia are found
as far north as Oonalashka ; more northerly only
one species. Several water-plants are found in the
lakes : Potamogeton^ Sparganium, Ranunculus aqua-
tilts, &c. Farther north, we observed only the two
species of Hippuris and the common Callitriche,

Two other ranuncidus, the Prunella vulgaris, a
Rhinanthus, a Cineraria, an Achillea, Plantago, a
Geum, several Ruhiacew, a Claytonia, the Menyan-
this trifoUata, a Triglochin, &c. belong with the
above-mentioned plants to the Flora of the vallies
of Oonalashka. A Bartsia seems to differ from
the Bartsia pallida which is found farther to the
north. A beautiful plant, which forms a new and
distinguished species, the Romanzqffia Unalasch-
kensis, received the name of the patron of all the
sciences in Russia. The species Rumex, Polygo-
num, Aconitum, Talictrum, several Alsinacece, the
Iris sibirica, the Geranium pratense, the Comarmn
palustre, the Montia fontana, are spread over the
whole north. ; *. ; l

The Empetrum nigrum, which with Helleborus
trifolius, Lin. (an American plant which we did
not meet with farther north) for the most part
clothes the hills, opens the kingdom of the Alpine
Flora. There are several species of Vaccinium and
the Oxycoccos, Arbutus alpinus, and Uva iirsi, a
white4)lossomed Menzicsia, which is included with

KAMTSCHATKA.

291

the Erica ceerulea. Rhododendron Kamtschaticum,
Azalea procumbens, Andromeda li/copodioides, whicli
is replaced higlier to the north by the Andromeda
tetragona, Alpine Salices, Sylene acaulis, Sibhaldia
procumbens, Comus suecica, Trientalis Europcea, Lin-
neaborealis, Omithogalum striatum* ,) Anthericum
calyculatum, L. variet. borealis^ Konigia islandica,
a Gymnandray which seems different from that
found more to the north, ten Saxifraga', three Pe-
dmtares, several Potentilla^ two Gea, two Anemo-
nWy three Primulce, a Papaver, a Drosera, a
Pinguicula, two Pyrolo', one Viola^ one Pamassia,
one RubuSy and one Armeria. Only one Alpine
Ranunculus and three Gentianoi are met with, of
which species several kinds are found more to the
north. Of the class of the Syngenesia^ the Aster,
Hieracium, Gnaphalium, Leontodon, Arthe?nisia, &c.
are met with. This class is more numerous higher
north, where the genus Arthemisia has several dis-
tinguished species. On the other hand, several
Alpine species of the genera Campamda and Ve-
ronica are met with at Oonalashka, which are en-
tirely missed farther north. . Several kinds of the
class of Satyriun are strewed partly in the valley,
and partly on the mountains.

At Oonalashka we missed Alnus incanat Betiila
nana. Ledum palustre, Dry as octopetala, Diapensia
lapponica, Rhodiola rosea, the genera Spircea,

* Two varieties of this plant may, perhaps, be difierent spe-
cies.

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292

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

Astragalus^ Allium myosottSj Corydalis, Valeriana,
Aretia, Androsace, Dodecatheon, Delphinium, and
Orobanche, which we found farther to the north.

The strand Flora, which farther north remains
the sanie, without alteration, is formed particularly
by the Elymus mollis, herb. Gorenk. Trinius in
SprengePs Ent. ii., p. 72. Arenaria peploides,
Pisum maritimum, several varieties of the Pulmon-
aria maritima, Willd., which are perhaps peculiar
species, parvi flora, Pursch. Cochlear ia officinalis
and Arnica maritima, which grows luxuriantly, and
branching on this island, but produces only one
flower in higher latitudes. We might add to this
Flora the Potentilla anserina.

The sea along the coasts, and in the bays, is
rich in Algw and the Fucus esculentus, the sea-
cabbage of the Russians settled there, is distin-
guished among many species of gigantic Fucus.

The mosses and lichens begin already at Oona-
lashka to occupy that great space in the Flora
which they maintain further northward.

The island of St. George, with flatted ridges of
fragments of rock, and steep shores, forms a table
of tolerable height, and inconsiderable extent, to
which a plain joins on the east side. You per-
ceive the strata in the profiles of the shore : the
kind of rock appears to be clay porphyry, as at
Oonalashka, and large blocks of porous lava, partly
form the strand.

The island of St. Paul is of greater extent, and

KAMTSCHATKA.

20S

lower than St. George. Only small hills rise in
the interior, one of which is in the form of a very
truncated cone. The shores gently slope towards
the sea, and form several capes and peninsulas.
Some reefs extend from the island and from a rock
(the Bober Island), into the sea, and are not with-
out danger for ships. The peninsula, on which
the settlement lies, is formed partly of heaped
volcanic scoriae, and partly of a porous lava, re-
sembling scoriae of iron ; the irregular surface of
which, not being yet grown over in several places,
sets it beyond all doubt, that it was once fluid.
Has this current, (of lava), risen from the sea, or
has it been thrown out by a mountain, which fell
into itself? Tt can hardly have rolled on, in the
present state of the island, from the distant and
low hills of the interior, on an almost horizontal
plane to the shores. A profile, near the landing-
place, clearly shows horizontal strata.

Fire has been several times seen from St. George
and St. Paul, burning at sea ; and people have
imagined, in clear weather, that they could distin-
guish land to the south-west of St. Paul. Our
examinations have proved that this latter appear-
ance was only a deception : the Are might have
been volcanic.

We had only a cursory view of these islands,
which lie nearly in the latitude of Riga; it is re-
markable how much more wintry nature appears
on them, than at Oonalashka. Covered valleys

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294

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

1 )

It
(HI?:

and plains do not, as there, cherish a more luxu-
riant vegetation, and more southern plants. An
entirely Alpine Flora unites itself, as further north,
to the strand Flora. The raised ridges of moun-
tain fragments are overgrown with black and pale-
coloured lichens, the places watered by the melt-
ing ice with Sphagnum, mosses, and a few Carices.
The earth has no more springs : the different
arctic plants choose, according to their nature, rocks
or moorland, and none of them rise above the soil
pn which they creep. The Lupinus at St. George,
the Achillea at St. Paul, remind us of Oona-
lashka ; but several plants, which are not met with
at Oonalashka, of the higher latitudes. RanunculuSt
Pallasii, and Gmelini, an Androsace, a Claytonia, &c.
We found a single plant (a Cochlearta ? ) exclu-
sively on these islands, where it is frequent and
characteristic.

Both islands, before they were discovered by
the Russians, were unknown to the neighbouring
people; and the peaceable abode of the water-
fowl and seals (JPhoca leonina and ursina"). On
both of them, there are only Aleutians under the
superintendance of the Russians ', and the animals
are subdued as well as the people. The island of
St. Matwey, (Choris Island), is still uninhabited ;
the fate of the intended settlement is known.
During the winter, the people found themselves
abandoned by the animals, on which they had
reckoned for their support ; and starved, with the

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KAMTSCHATKA.

295

exceptiftn of three, who prolonged their lives with
a poor clay, which they discovered. We received
a specimen of this mineral at Oonalashka, which
had been brought there by previous navigators; it
is in the European collections.

Islands like these, and so near to inhabited
coasts, would not have remained uninhabited had
they been in the Great Ocean.

We shall unite St. Lawrence Island, and the
two shores of Beering*s Strait, in one point of
view. They are formed of the same primitive
mountains, and the same Flora is spread over
them. These countries lie between the latitude of
Christian Sound, and Donna 6e on the Norwegian
coast, or Hernosand and Tornea on the Swedish,
inthe Gulf of Bothenia.

St. Lawrence Bay is a frith of the Asiatic coast,
which penetrates into the mountains; the back-
ground of which is formed by eminences with
naked rocky declivities. The kind of rock is pri-
mitive limestone.

The Alpine or arctic Flora, which here adorns the
foot of the mountain, does not seem to crown their
summits, even when free from snow ; and while
the clefts where the snow has melted are adorned
with the richest vegetation, the dry ridges and de-
clivities of piled masses of rock are scarcely tinged
with grey and black lichen.

The mountains in this wintry climate, uncovered
and unprotected by vegetation, moulder and decay.

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296

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

I

■\^

H

t

m

m

The frost bursts the rocks ; the mild heat ^f every
summer brings down new masses, and the destruc-
tion continues, till it is complete. The soil is
every where composed of fragments of rocks, ex-
cept where the Sphagnum has formed a turf, or
marshy soil, in deep watered places. ^

■ The poet of a happier climate, shows us, in the
wood-covered summits of his mountains, the image
of indestructibility, while the gloomy song of the
northern bard exemplifies by his rocks the de-
structive power of age.

The Tschukutskoi, who inhabit St. Lawrence
Bay, possess a tolerably large quantity of a fine
graphite, with which they paint their faces with
crosses and different figures, as an ornament. We
have obtained, of the different tribes with whom
we traded of both coasts, nephrites wrought in
different manners, on which, with their present
riches in iron, they place no particular value. We
have been unable to discover where those two
minerals are found.

St. Lawrence Island is of moderate height, and
its ridges are flattened. At the place where we
landed, in the year 1816, we met with a kind of
rock mixed with green-stone; and in the year 1817i
to the east, and near the south cape, we also found,
as it were at its foot, large masses of granite.
The forms which, when viewed from the sea, the
profile of this promontory exhibited, excited our
curiosity, and we believed we had seen in them

.!ii KAMTSCHATKA.

297

i

U

basaltic columns, which leaned, nearly perpen-
dicular, in one direction to the south.

The American coast, to the north of the strait,
is formed of alluvial levels and downs, between
Cape Prince of Wales and Cape Krusenstern,
(Cape Mulgrave, Cook?) which are two rocky
pillars. Kotzebue's Sound led us through them,
as far as the primitive land, to which they are
annexed. The land is raised but a little, and the
uninterrupted lines of the hill prevent us from see-
ing where the rocky ground begins.

The rocky island which protects the anchoring-
place in the back-ground of the sound is of a mixed
kind of rock (flinty slate). It has a powerful in-
fluence on the magnetic needle, and changes its
direction. The rock shows itself again on the
profile of the opposite shore, which forms the
bottom of the sound. Eschscholtz Bay, into which
the sound is prolonged to the north-east, penetrates
again into alluvial land. We landed at a sandy
point on the east side of the bay, where the
magnetic needle was likewise found to vary in an
extraordinary manner. Shall we from this ano-
maly jnfer the vicinity of primitive mountains which
we do not immediately see?

Docter Eschscholtz intended to return along the
strand of this sand-bank to the rocky shore, which
is a continuation of it. He found between the
sand and the primitive mountains, for which he
was looking, an imperceptible continuation of

Jl

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298

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

i

both, without being able clearly to recognize the
stratification, a kind of rock, which, as far as our
knowledge extends, only Link has reckoned among
rock, viz. ice, pure solid ice.
r The profile, where, being indented by the sea, it
comes to sight, reaches to the height of eighty
feet at the most, and the highest ridge of the
hill scarcely double. Over the ice is a covering of
blueish clay (or loam), from two to three inches thick,
and immediately over that a kind of turf scarcely
a foot deep. The vegetation is perfectly the same
as on the alluvial sand and clay soils. The earth
thaws only a few inches deep everywhere, and it
is not to be ascertained, by digging, what soil it is.
The mould, which falls down from the ice-hills,
protects their foot, and a stop is put to farther
devastation when under this falling earth a decli-
vity is formed, which reaches from the foot to the
summit. The length of the profile, in which the
ice is exposed to sight, may be about a musket-
shot. But it is evident, in the forms of the over-
grown declivities of the shore, that the same kind
of mountain (ice) occupies a much greater extent.
We are already acquainted, from several travels,
with similar ice-ground in the north of Asia and
America, and among these, particularly, the rocks
of ice, covered with vegetation at the mouth of the
Lena, out of which the mammoth, the skeleton of
which is now in St. Petersburg, was thawed, and
on wiiich a cross was erected by Adams, to whom

KAMTSCHATKA.

299

we are indebted for the preservation of" the skeleton,
and the accounts respecting it.

Fossil ivory is found here as in Northern Asia,
and the natives manufacture utensils out of it as
of morse and physetor teeth. We found, near the
ice ground on the point of land where we bi-
vouacked, and where the natives had stayed before
us, some grinders, which perfectly resembled those
of the mammoth, and also a tusk which, by its
greater thickness at the root, and its simple curva-
ture considerably differed from the well known
mammoth's horns, and seemed to have much more
resemblance to the teeth of the present race of
elephants. During the night our watch-fire was
partly kept up with such ivory.

We have remarked the greater riches of the
arctic Flora, amidst manifold variety of soil on the
rocky coast of St. Lawrence Bay; the greater
poverty, on the other hand, on the flat sandy coast
of America, whose hills are uniformly clothed with
Sphagnum, and where only, on the rocky island in
the interior of the sound, there are some species of
Alpine plants which thrive only on a rocky soil.
We collected many kinds of plants in St. Lawrence
liay, which we met with no where else. The equally
rocky island of St. Lawrence, on which we stopped
for but a few moments, showed us several kinds,
which it has in common with the bay of the same
name, and which are wanting on the American
coast. Lastly, this coast offered us but a few kinds

♦ '

111

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hi
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•>■-.! ■1'

■<;

.1

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I

300

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

which we did not find in St. Lawrence Bay. We
cannot give any more essential difference in the
Flora of the two coasts, than that caused by the
difference of the soil and climate.

The aspect of nature is the most wintry in the
Bay of St. Lawrence. The vegetation, pressed
down to the soil, scarcely rises perceptibly in its
back ground, where the shrubby willows hardly
reach the knee. The Andromeda polifoUa which
we found only there, was no more than two or
three inches high, and bearing one flower. The
Flora of this bay is adorned by a Delphiniumy a
Dodecatheon, an Aretta, and several species, which
we saw only there, of every genuine arctic Alpine
genus. Gentia:ia, Savifraga, Astragalus, Arthe-
misia^ Draba, Ranunculus^ Claytontay &c. Several
of them had not been described.

St. Lawrence Island, lying two degrees farther
south, does not differ from St. Lawrence Bay, in
respect to vegetation. An Andromeda tetragona,
the Dryas octopetala, the Diapensia lapponica,
species of Alpine Myosotis, a GymnandrOy &c.
mark, as in St. Lawrence Bay, the character of the
Flora. We observe that in this island, transported
into the arctic vegetable kingdom, we gathered, in
a few minutes, more flowers in blossom than we
had observed during several weeks on the island-
chain of Radack lying between the tropics. Far-
ther to the north, on the Rocky Islandjin the interior
of Kotzebue's Sound, grows the Azalea procumbens.

KAMTSCHATKA.

301

as at Oonalaslika, and in the bay and island of St,
Lawrence ; with this are Alpine willows, Comus.
suecica, Linnea borealis, arctic species ofRubiiSy ^c,
Empetnim nigrum, and Ledum palustre, are every
where met with on moor-land, and under the
Sphagnum ; but the Ledum does not form there the
high bush which adorns the moor-lands in northern
Germany.

The vegetation in the interior of Kotzebue's
Sound is considerably higher than in the interior
of St. Lawrence Bay. The willows are higher,
the grass kinds richer, all vegetation more juicy
and stronger. Most of the species of plants found
by us on the American coast, and wanting in
St. Lawrence Bay, indicate a less wintry climate.
We found on the island mentioned above, Jlnus
incana, as a little shrub, and Spircea chamcedri-
folia, plants which we had noticed at Kamtschatka,
and not on the American island of Oonalashka,
and which a more rigorous clime seems to have
kept from St. Lawrence Bay. The Flora of this
island is adorned by Orobanche and a Pinguicula,
The Cineraria palustris grows particularly luxu-
riant on the well-watered declivities, which are
formed at the foot of the ice-walls. Betula nana
is met with already on the outer coast. The level
ground of this coast is not covered with snow
during the summer.

Not far from the back of Kotzebue's Sound,
about a degree and a half more south, Cook found

])

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30a

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

the banks of Norton Sound well wooded, and the
trees rose always higher towards the interior of
the country (northwards). •

Mackenzie, farther east, in the interior of Ame-
rica, found the banks of the river to which he gave
his name, grown with high trees, as far as under
the 68th degree of north latitude, and these banks
appeared to him to be of ice.

It seems to us, weighing all the circumstances,
that the American coast of Beering's Strait enjoys
a milder climate than the Asiatic.

Let us be permitted to place by the side of this
melancholy portrait of these coasts, the picture of
European nature under the 70th degree of north
latitude (three degrees and a half further north-
ward than the most northern points touched by us.)
" The circular bay and the amphitheatre of Tal-
vig, as they suddenly burst upon us through the
narrow channel by which we passed, were highly
attractive. The church stood in the middle of the
green and animated slope, with the large house of
the clergyman above, and on the sides there were
two considerable gaards, with Quans and peasants
along the banks j and picturesque rocks, with a
majestic foaming waterfall above. Add to all this,
the animation of summer j the ships in the har-
bour, a Copenhagen and a Flensburg brig, with a
Russian vessel from the coast of Archangel, and
Finns and Norwegians in continual motion back-
wards and forwards in the bay, going with fresh

KAMTSCHATKA.

303

fish to the Russians, and dry to the merchant, and
returning with meal and grain. Who would re-
present Finmark as dreary and miserable, if lie saw
the beautiful situation of the Bay of Talvig ?

" About mid-day we crossed the nine short
English miles from Talvig to Altengaard, the seat
of the head magistrate (Amtman\ in the inmost part
of the Fiord. This gaard is also an object of sur-
prise. It is situated in the middle of a wood of
high Scotch firs, in a green meadow, with noble
views through the trees, of the Fiord, of the points
which project beyond one another into the water,
and, finally, of the fields of Seyland and Lang-
fiord. The trees around are so beautiful, and so
diversified ! We see through the boughs, on the
opposite side of the water, the foaming stream
which descends from the rocks, and communicates
perpetual motion to the saw-miUs ; and in the
Fiord, and in Refs-botn, every hour that the sun
advances in its course, lights up some new gaard
to us. The habitation is a villa, not a country-
house built for the dust of law papers, or for the
management of law-suits. It appears, when we
enter the wood from the beach, as if we were
transported to the park of Berlin j and when the
perspectives down the Fiord open on us, it then
seems as if we were viewing Italian distances, or
one of the lakes of Switzerland." (Leopold Von
Buch's Reise durch Norwegeii uiul Luppland, &c.
p. 1<85.)

5. t ^•■'

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

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Mageroe, under the 70th degree, with its jagged,
naked rocks, among which large and extended
masses of snow lie every where, at the end of
July seems to be a counterpart to the aspect of the
shore of the Bay of St. Lawrence. The birch,
however, though stunted, grows more on the de-
clivities of the mountains, at an elevation of four
hundred feet. Leopold Von Buch estimates the
mean temperature of the air of this island at H°
R., and the height of the perpetual snow at two
thousand feet. It, however, never freezes in well-
closed cellars, and the grass does not cease grow-
ing under the snow. A rivulet flows during the
whole winter, near Hammerfest, at Qualoe. .

We see, on the other hand, on the coasts to
which our attention is directed, a more luxuriant
vegetation ; bushes, (high trees, Mackenzie,) thriv-
ing on a soil eternally frozen on a ground of pure
ice.

Wahlemberg (de Vegetatione et Climate in Hel-
vetia Septentrionali, p. 84.) has proposed this
law for Europe . " The mean temperature of the
air towards the 46th degree of north latitude, is
equal to the temperature of the earth, in level
countries, raised but little above the surface of the
sea. From this centre, the temperature of the air
decreases more quickly, as well towards the north
as towards the summits of the mountains, than the
temperature of the earth j and, towards the south,
more quickly increases, so that in the north, and

KAMTSCHATKA.

305

on the mountains, the temperature of the earth is
warmer, but in the south less warm than the mean
temperature of the air." . v

On the coast we visited, only the direct heat of
the sun, and the temperature of the air, during the
summer, could support tlie vegetation on an eter-
nally-frozen earth. Shall we suppose the cold of
the winter to be so severe there, that the mean
temperature of the air could still fall below the
temperature of the earth ? The sight of nature on
these coasts, in the absence of all meteorological
observation, contradicts the above law, which, if
proved for Europe, seems to be unfavourable to
the hypothesis ventured by us, according to which
the mild climate of this part of the world is owing
to the warmer air which passes over it.

Steller, whom Pallas calls immortal, first de-
veloped, under Beering, the natural history of this
country and these seas ; and Merk, under Billing,
Ijonourably followed his example. Other learned
men and collectors have explored Kamtschatka
more at their ease, and Oonalashka has been
visited. The names of Steller and Merk have re-
tained all their lustre. Of their botanical collec-
tions much has remained unpublished, particularly
in the herbaries of Lamberti, Willdenow, and G6-
renki. Pallas, in the Zoographia Rossica, as far
lis it went, (to the middle of the fishes,) has col-
lected every thing relating to zoology. With due
respect to our predecessors, we shall make but a

VOL. III. X

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IlEMAllKS AND OPINIONS.

\ii

few observations on the Fauna of these seas ami

coasts. ■:,■!:-_=:■.•. .: .fh-.;. \^i :m:.w j^"

The large mammalia have gone over from the
American continent to Oonemak. There we find
the rein-deer, a wolf, and a bear, which appears to
be the European brown bear. The black bear
( Ursus AmerkanuSy gala genisque ferrugineis), the
valuable skin of which is sought for furs, is first
met, together with the brown bear, on the remote
north-west coast. There is, besides, at Oona-
lashka, the black fox, and several small GUreSy
among which the Mus oeconomus is distinguished,
which stores under the snow, for winter stock, the
roots of the Polygonum viviparum, of the Surana,
(Silium Kamtschaticum,) and other plants. The
other mammalia belong to the Fauna of the sea.

As, on the one hand, in proportion as you go
further in the land towards the north, the woods
become less lofty, the vegetation gradually de-
creases, animals become scarcer, and, lastly, (as at
Nova Zembla,) the rein-deer and the Glires vanish
with the Isst plants, and only birds of prey prowl
about the icy streams for their food ; so, on the
other hand, the sea becomes more and more
peopled. The Alga;, gigantic species of Tang, form
inundated woods round the rocky coasts, such as
are not met with in the torrid zone.* But the

* The sea Tang^ which serves the Manilla galleons as ii
mark of the vicinity of iand on tiic coast of Ci>'iiti>.ia, might,

17

KAMTSCHATKA.

307

waters swarm with animal life, though all aquatic
animals seem to remain in a lower scale than their
relatives of the same class on land. The Medusae
and ZoophyteSj Moluscce and Crttstacece^ innumer-
able species of fish, in incredibly crowded shoals,
the gigantic swimming mammalia, whales, phy-
seters, dolphins, morse and seals, fill the sea and
its strand, and countless flights of water-fowls
rock themselves on the bosom of the ocean, and,
in the twilight, resemble floating islands.

The sea-otter does not seem to penetrate to the
northward beyond the chain of the Aleutian
islands, and begins to become scarce after it has
caused the destruction of the native tribes. The
sea-lion and the sea-bear appear to keep in about
the same limits ; other seals, more resembling the
Phoca vituUna, are found more frequently to the
north. Countless herds of morse are met with
in Beering's Straits, and the teeth of these animals
seem to form a considerable branch of trade with
the natives of St. Lawrence Island. We heard
only corrupted traditions at Oonalashka, which
seemed to refer to the Manatus borealis, A Phy-
seter, a sea-wolf, six different species of whale,
Delphinus orca, and two other dolphins, are found
round the Aleutian islands ; and, besides this, the

perhaps, mark the extreme progress of this formation to the
limits of the monsoon. To this is added the Fucus buccinalist
which occurs at the Cape of Good Hope.

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

«; I

\

Delphinus leucas, in the north of Beering's Straits,
as we infer from several accounts.
a On the coast of Beering's Straits are found several
species of Viverra and Cams, among which the black
fox has chiefly excited our rapacity. The very com-
mon Arctomys cytillus, the skin of which produces
an elegant fur, is distinguished among the Glires»
The rein-deer, which belongs to both coasts, seems
to be wanting in St. Lawrence Island. The dog,
every where in the north the first companion to
man, and his useful draught animal, is wanting
only on the Aleutian islands, where it was formerly
introduced and increased, but was extirpated by
the masters of the country, because it pursued the
fox, whose skin was their surest source of riches.

Many land-birds have spread over to Oonalashka
from the nearest coast, of which the white-headed
American eagle is predominant. With respect to
the albatrosses, Diomedea exulans, we have to cor-
rect a very common error, which has gained credit
under the authority of Pallas.* The albatross
does not visit the north as a transitory guest from
the southern hemisphere, merely to appease its
hunger for a short time, and then to return at the

* Unica Septentrionum vUitans avis Diomedea albatrus,
hiemem antarcticam fugiens, per immensum oceanum ad nostra
littora, aestiva abundantia piscium anadromorum alHcitur, neu
tamcn apud nos general, sed ad aestatem antarcticam proliH*
candi gratia iliuc denuo abit. Zoogr. Ross, vol. i. p. 297, ami
vol. ii. p. 308.

KAMTSCHATKA.

309

breeding season to its southern home. The alba-
tross builds its nest of feathers on the highest sum-
mits of the Aleutian islands, namely, on Umnack
and Tschatirech Sobpotschnie ostroff, (the Island
of the Four Peaks.) It lays two very large eggs,
of a blueish colour, and hatches in the summer
season. The black variety mentioned by authors
is the young one. The Aleutians ascend these
summits towards August, and take the eggs from
the nest ; they also throw darts, made for the pur-
pose, at the sitting birds, and are particularly eager
after their fat, with which they abound at this
season.

Not a single animal of the class of Amphihice
appears either at Oonalashka or the Aleutian
islands. :j i v^

Among thie insects, the beetle is predominant ;
and among these the Carabus, of which Dr. Esch-
scholtz counted sixteen kinds, many of which are
not hitherto described. Several water-beetles
animate the lakes and standing water. It might
perhaps be in vain to look for them more to the

north.

The common northern large Maja (Liihodes
arctica, Lat.) is distinguished among the crabs, and
is particularly excellent for food.

We refer to Pallas and other authors with re-
spect to the fish, on the constant and innumerable
swarms of which the subsistence of the people of

X 3

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310

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

the north, and of their domestic animals *, (with
the exception of the rein-deer) depends, as it
does in a milder climate on the harvest of corn,
dried fish being the only substitute for bread and
fodder among the people of the north. The more
simply organized inhabitants of the sea will lead us
to make some general remarks.

We have recognized, in the equatorial ocean, a
laboratory of nature, where she causes lime-stone
to be produced or precipitated by Mollmcce, worms,
and especially Polypi. In the sea which washes
the Aleutian islands, animals of the same class are
no less numerous, at least, as far as concerns the
number of the individuals, and many of the species
are not less gigantic than in that zone, but the
production of lime-stone does not take place.
Among the MoUuscce, the cuttle-fish, {Sepia oc-
topus?) which is the most remarkable, grows to
a size, that really renders it dangerous to the
small baydares of the natives, as it is able to over-
turn them, and justifies, in some degree, the fable
of the polypus, which is said to entwine ships in
its arms, and draw them to the bottom. There is no
great variety of testaceous animals, and if the num-

* Inclined to make comparisons, we observe that Marco Polo
mentions, in the 46th chapter of the third book, of the country
of Aden (in the torrid zone) that even the horses, oxen, and
camels, all eat fish, as no herb appears above the soil, on ac-
count of the extreme heat. The cattle rather eat dried than
fresh fish.

KAMTSCHATKA.

ill

ber of species is not very considerable, it is made
up for by that of the individuals of a few species
generally diffused. Several Balanus, and the com-
mon muscle, {Mytilus edulis,) for the most part
cover the strand. The muscle, which among us
is generally eaten, is here a most dangerous food,
which is only taken in case of necessity. It is
said to operate, at times, as a most decisive poison ;
and we were assured that people had often died
in consequence of eating it. No Molluscce of
these seas can be compared for the production of
lime«stone with the Chama gigas and other species
of the south.

Among the Zoophytes, Cuv. the sea-stars (^As-
terias, L.), sea hedge-hog (Echinm, L.), and sea-
jelly (Medma, L.) are distinguished. The most
common sea-star (Asterias rubens ?) attains a size
of almost a foot in diameter. A Eurgak (Caput
mednsee) is decidedly a different kind from that
found at the Cape of Good Hope. The most
common sea hedge-hog (^Echinus esculentus ?)
serves for food. The Medtisce, and other insigni-
ficant animals, supply the whales with sufficient
sustenance.* The place of the southern Litho-
phytes is occupied by the Ceratophytes ; and the
north coast of Umnack, in particular, produces
several very distinguished species. The fishermen
frequently draw up with their lines, from the bot-

* Wc did not meet with Clio horealis in these seas.

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

torn of the sea, large twigs, six feet long, which,
from their near resemblance, they consider to be
the beard of a gigantic animal, and which appeared
to us to be the skeleton of a sea-pen, (Pennatula.)

It now remains for us to describe the people
who inhabit the coasts and islands we have
noticed.*

It is well known that the Tschukutskoi, settled
on the north-east point of Asia, the inhabitants of
St. Lawrence Island, those of the opposite coast,
and in fact all the inhabitants of the northern coasts
of America, beginning from Beering's Straits, on
the one side southwards, as far as the Konagi,
at Kadjak, and the Tschgatzi, at the back of
Cook's inlet, and, on the other side, to the north
and eastward, along the Icy Sea, at the mouth of
Mackenzie and Copper-mine rivers, as far as the
Esquimaux, on the north of Hudson's Bay and
Labrador, and to the Greenlanders, and the people,
discovered by Ross, in the highest north of Baffin's
Bay, belong to one and the same race of men ; a
race of a decidedly Mongol physiognomy, that of
of the Esquimaux, whose Asiatic origin is evident,
and whose wandering may easily be followed over

* We observe that we call most of these people and tribes,
mentioned by us, by names which they did not give themselves,
but which were imposed upon them by strangers. And this is
the case with most people on the earth. Thus the word Aleu-
tian seems to be derived from the interrogative particle allixt
which struck strangers in the language of that people.

KAMTSCHATKA.

313

the East cape of Asia, and along the coasts of
America.

i The language, remarkable for its artificial con-
struction, the mode of life, the manners, arts,
the very peculiar navigation in leather-boats
(Kadjak bayilares*), the arms, the costume, are
every where the same in the essential parts, and
in the drawings given by travellers we can scarcely
distinguish the Greenlanders from the Tschukut-
skoi, or Konagi.

Vater, in Mithridates, vol. iii. part 3. p. 425, hesi-
tates to reckon the inhabitants of the Fox islands,
the Aleutians, with G. Forster among the Esqui-
maux ; but they clearly belong to the same race.
Dr. Eschscholtz has convinced himself of the essen-
tial coincidence of their differing dialects with the
original language, and they otherwise entirely re-
semble their relatives of the same race. This
people has evidently wandered from the American
continent westwards, to the islands ; the most
western of the chain have remained unpeopled
us those lying in the interior of the Kamtschatka
basin.

The language of this branch of people is suffi-
ciently well known to us, chiefly by the school-
books in the Greenland dialect, for which we are
indebted to the Danish missionaries, and by the
Bible, translated into the Greenland and Labradore

* It is remarkable that they are wanting among the northern
liighlanders of Ross.

i

314

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

languages. * Dr. Eschscholtz has undertaken,
with the assistance of an Aleutian who accom-
panied us, to clear up the Aleutian dialect, and
its very intricate grammar. He was resolved to
conclude this equally difficult and meritorious
work which he had begun ; and it is to be hoped,
that the necessary assistance of his protege in this
labour, will not be withdrawn from him. "

In the Aleutian, as well as in the Greenland
dialects, there is a remarkable difterence in the
language of the men and of the women.

The Kamtschadales do not belong to this branch.
They are, likewise, a Mongol race, and speak
different dialects of a seemingly peculiar language.
This people is now almost entirely extinct under
its new foreign yoke. (Vide Krusenstern, vol. ii.
chap. 8.) - • ^ ''

The author is not competent to speak on the
Aleutians and the Russian American Company.
He would only be able to express his wounded
feelings and his commiseration. Whoever, ac-
cording to established custom, disregards the right
of a defenceless people to their native liberty,
must allow that, under this rigorous clime, poverty
is wretchedness, and the Aleutians are poor and
miserable to an unheard-of degree, compared to
the more prosperous, robust, and independent

* Mithridates, vol. iii. part 3. p. 432, and Linguarum Index,
p. S5.

KAMTSCHATKA.

315

tribes of the same branch. Tliey are harmless,
wretched slaves, who are even now let out without
due economy, though not with the same wanton
prodigality as formerly, and whose race will soon
be extinct. * —

Sauer, Davidoff, LangsdorfT, Krusenstern, and
others, have expressed their opinions on this subject.

We shall indulge in but a few observations on
the more northern tribes, the Tschukutskoi, the
inhabitants of St. Lawrence Island, and the shores
of Kotzebue's Sound ; and refer to the Russian
accounts, Cook, the narrator of Billing's expedi-
tion, SaretschefT and Sauer, and to the account of
our voyage. More competent persons have taken
it upon them to speak on these tribes.

* Sauer, in the Supplement to his Voyage, gives an extract
from the journal of a Russian officer, which speaks of the first
Russian hunters on these islands. " They used, not unfrc-
quently, to place the men close together, and try through how
many the ball of their rifle-barrelled musket would pass ! Ge-
gori SchelikofF has been charged with this act of cruelty, ard I
have reason to believe it."

In Billing's '^me, the people of Oonalashka were still distin-
guished by greater civilization, refinement, and skill in arts, but
now no longer.

On the West Indian islands the negro-slaves, not unfrequcntly,
fled into the inaccessible mountains of the interior {Negres mar-
rons, Cimarrons). Here, where only the sea affords sustenance,
the Aleutians, on several islands, are said to have fled ipto the
mountains.

We have been officially informed, that the number of the
Aleutians on the Fox islands was, in the year 1806, 133* men,
and 570 women; and, in 1817, 462 men, and S8i women (?).

m

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Wi'B

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316

REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

We became acquainted with the Tschukutskoi
at the same place where Cook and Billing had been
before us. We found their accounts of the manners
and customs of this people, as far as we became
acquainted with them, very accurate, but must
contradict them only in one point; namely, in
respect to the advantages ascribed to them above
other tribes, in cultivation, strength, a superior
stature, and particularly in more European fea-
tures. We recognized in them only the Esqui-
maux of the opposite coast, to whom we even
thought them inferior in ingenuity. Only some
of them might, perhaps, be distinguished by a
higher stature. ^r-r^^ysyu' i^ tu<.^i^\--:^^-:j:Wfj'^^ »;;

The Tschukutskoi acknowledge, indeed, the
Russian supremacy ; but the tribute, which they
voluntarily bring to Russian trading places, is only
like a duty by which they obtain access to them,
and they enjoy the advantages of trade, while their
independence remains unimpaired.

As the island of St. Lawrence lies between the
two continents, its inhabitants seem to keep a me-
dium between the Tschukutskoi and Americans,
but to be more nearly related to the latter. They
do not appear to burn their dead as the Tschukuts-
koi do. We have found skulls on the plateau of
the island, and in the fragments of rocks at the
foot of the montains, but not the monuments
made of drift-wood, which are erected on the
American coast, to mark the burial place of the

KAMTSCKATKA,

317

dead, on the frozen-ground of the hills, and pro-
tect it against wild beasts. It is well known that
they wear the ornaments at the corner of the
mouth, which distinguish the Esquimaux, from
Kotzebue's Sound, to the mouth of Mackenzie
River ; but they are less general among them, and
of a smaller size. They appeared to stand in
commercial relations with the Tschukutskoi, and
to procure from them, particularly, dresses (Parkas)
of rein-deer skin, which they use : they do not
possess the animal itself. They are rich in morse-
teeth and other productions, procured from marine
animals, and are fond of trade.

The Tschukutskoi hate the inhabitants of the
American coast, with whom they live in enmity and
war, and pictured them to us in the blackest colours.
In our intercourse with them, we observed only that
precaution which becomes a man capable of bearing
arms, towards strangers, and which we ourselves
used towards them j but never perceived any thing
that could authorize in us a suspicion that they in-
tended treachery. Their riches in Russian goods,
iron, blue glass beads, &c., struck us very much.
If we understood the Tschukutskoi rightly, and
may credit them, they procure these goods, like
llie Tschukutskoi themselves, from Colima.
Shall we believe that the trade of the Americans
has really opened a way to this market by sea,
round the Schclatzkoy-noss, or rather by night,

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REMARKS AND OPINIONS.

and in the winter season, by means of sledges,
over the frequently mentioned isthmus of this
promontory?

METEOROLOGY. — MAGNET.

The naturalist of the expedition had only the
observation of Troughton's dipping needle ; and
that only twice, in Chili and St. Lawrence Bay.
He can only repeat what is found in Ross's Voy-
age, Appendix, page 128 : —

" We never got any result from this instrument
which could be depended on,"

U'

' sledges,
i of this

,,. ,.

r.

only the
die; and
ince Bay,
ss's Voy-

istrument

■t

>i

' ''.«;■!.

APPENDIX

i BY

OTHER AUTHORS.

•.>.fS^

!

' sn

'>

''■•" it.:';'r:r

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

r f-'

In the North Sea we saw swarms of Medusae
swimming in the sea j for the first time, (the 22d
of August, 1815,) we caught a great number of
Medusa capillaris^ L. On the 27th, another large
Mediisa was very frequent, which seemed un-
known to us. It was distinguished by the edge of
the disk being divided into thirty-two small
round incisions, and by the great fluctuation in
the form.

The two continued calms, which we had in the
Atlantic Ocean, were very advantageous for catch-
ing and observing the Molluscs, On the l6th of
October we saw for the first time two kinds of
SalpcB; the one was a Salpa maxima^ L. ; the other
a singular kind, composed of two hermaphrodites,
externally different, in which I was so fortunate to
observe the reciprocal propagation. The one,
wliich I shall call Hermaphroditus^ has already
been described by Forskohl, by the name of Salpa
pinnata, and is distinguished by its broad elong-
ation, in the front and underpart of the body,
which is wanting in the Hermaphrodita, The first
has a single tolerably long blue stripe on the back
and on each side ; but the latter, in the same places,

VOL. III. y

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322

APPENDIX.

five short arched spots in one row. The Hernia-
phroditus does not swim singly about in the sea,
in its natural state ; but several together, the one,
holding itself fast by the points of the elongated
excrescence to that of the next, form themselves
into a wheel-shaped figure, the elongations forming
the radii. In the large channel, through which
the water flows that it sucks in, to move the body
forwards, it carries a young one, fastened by a
navel-string to the inner side of the back : this
young one is living, and sucks in and discharges
the water at the same time as the one that bears
it. It has no elongation on the fore part of the
body ; and has on each side of the back five blue
spots, and is therefore a hermaphrodite.

The Hermaphrodita, always single, nourishes in
a conical space, in the under part of the body, an
innumerable quantity of Hermaphroditus ; and
from eight to ten are born together, holding to
each by their elongated excrescence. ''' •- ^

During the second calm, on the 24th of October,
we caught a number of Glaucus AtlanticnSy
Blumenbach, which seemed to lie quietly on the
surface of the water, and on the following day a
Pterotrachea pulmonatUy Forsk., which iias a great
resemblance with a fish. During all this time we ob-
served the Gryllus tataricuSy L. lying in great
numbers on the water ; a propitious wind had
happily driven these destructive swarms into the
sea. It did not appear to be many days since tliis

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

323

had taken place, as most of those which we took
up were fresh, and not yet beginning to corrupt.
A few years before, they had visited Teneriffe,
and occasioned gr«?^t daniage about the town of
Laguna.

The day after our arrival at Teneriffe, Chamisso
an4 myself commenced our three days* excursion
into the island, early in the morning. Our guide
first conducted us into the mountains, on the
western point of the island. The rocky walls be-
hind this town were covered with fleshy plants, of
which the Euphorbia canariensis and Piscatoria,
Cacalia Kleinia, and the Cactus Opuntia, which
grows entirely wild here, sometimes form entire
thickets, being arborescent. Farther on, in a valley,
we saw two pretty high dragon trees, (^Dracaena
draco, L.) one of which bore fruit. About two
o'clock at noon, we descended into a large vale,
and saw the town of Laguna. An aqueduct leads
from the mountains into the town. Not a single
inn was to be found on this spot ; there were four
monks' and two nuns' convents in this place. We
had incessant torrents of rain all the aflernoon ;
and, though the rain had not ceased on the follow-
ing morning, we continued our way to Oratava. At
first, a broad even path, led us between fertile fields
of lupines, through large villages, but it soon be-
came, on account of the frequent clefts in the
rocks, only a broad foot-path, consisting entirely of
steps. It was also here that the most delightful

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APPENDIX.

1

si' u^^^B' s '

w^N^^^^HV'

vineyards were planted, and where we frequently
saw the date-tree, (^Phoenix dactijlifera, L.) in
gardens fenced in W'th the American aloe. At
noon, we had proceeded so far, that we could be-
hold from an eminence the town of Laguna and its
spacious harbour, which was full of ships. But as
we had fixed to be on board on the evening of
the following day, we did not proceed, but turned
back, when it was already getting. dark, to seek
our night's lodging in a large village. The rain
fell in torrents during the night ; which washed
the streets so clean, that it was very good walking
on the following day, and we had already reached
Laguna about noon. We took from this place
the nearest way along the high road to Santa Cruz,
which lasted a few hours. On this road we met
two loaded camels, of a dun colour.

Among the sixty-two plants, which we collected
during these three days, in such unfavourable
weather, we found thirty peculiar to the Canary oi-
Madeira islands, thirty that these islands have iu
common with Europe, and only two with Africa.
The number of the dicotyledones, amounts to
forty-six j and that of the monocotyledones to only
nine ; the first are therefore as five to one. We
only found seven kinds of ferns.

On the 14th of November, after we had passed
Cape Ve'd islands, we caught three sliarks,
(Sgitalus glmicusy L.) which had followed a boat
that was sent out to examine a large piece of wootl

GENKUAL OBSERVATIONS.

325

floating on the water. On one of them a small
sucking fish was fastened, {Echeneis remora, L,) On
the I6tb, three herons, (as we took them to be,)
followed the ship ; they appeared to be very
fatigued; for one of them tried to seat itself on
the back part of the ship, but fell again into the
water. On the following day, we shot a duck,
which we decided to be the Anas sirsair, described
by Forskohl, in Egypt. To-day a shark fastened
itself again to the hook, which we recognized to
be Squalus carcharias; two Echenei were attached
to its body. On the 20th of November, we saw
the first large Brazilian Holothuria, {Physalia).
On the 7th of December, (near the Brazilian
coast,) we sailed through a long yellow streak in
the sea, several fathoms broad. We drew some
of the water up in a pail, and observed that
the yellow colour was occasioned by immense
numbers of small, thin, yellow stems, about half' a
line long. Through the microscope we clearly
discovered several transverse divisions in each of
the round stems. Two days afler, we again met
with such streaks in the sea ; we afterwards saw
narrower green stripes, which were formed of
myriads of microscopic animals. These were dis-
tinguished by no external members, and had a
resemblance to a Planaria, On the 10th we
descried the Brazilian coast; we saw to-day the
first frigate birds, (Pelecanus aquilm^ Lin.)
Though the mountains of the coast of the con-

Y 3

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1 ■ ^

|!i !

■ n

»■''

^9

D

.i^B

&26

APPENDIX.

tinent opposite the island of St. Catharine's art*
not very high, none of* us ever succeeded in
reaching the top of one of them. The principal
cause was the impenetrable wood ; we could
only ascend as far as the slaves had opened a
way with the axe, for fetching wood j if we at-
tempted to go farther, we soon found ourselves
raised above the ground, and suspended upon a
texture of climbing plants. For in the same manner
as the plants of Teneriffe showed a tendency to
arborescence, the vegetation in Brazil was re-
markably disposed to the rampant and climbing
character. Among the two hundred and thirty-
seven kinds of plants, which we collected here,
were one hundred and twenty-eight Dicotyle-
dones, sixty-nine Monocotyledones^ and forty
Filices, The proportion of the Dicolytedones to
the Monocotyledones h therefore two to one.
The number of the Filices is very remarkable,
being to that of the Phenogamous plants, as one

to five. ='- '■■^^"^'-■^'^'V ;*•'■:*;^■^-.■'i^■'^■?^f^;-^::^^-^..^

On the 2d of January, 1816, we saw, to the
north of Cape Victoria, on the coast of Chili, great
numbers of animals of the dolphin kind swimming
in the sea. They were distinguished by having
no dorsal fins ; and, in swimming, very much re-
semble sharks, on account of their large pectoral
fins. They have a pretty long snout j the upper
half of their body is brown, and the under half
white. They did not swim as fast as dolphins,

GENERAL ODSKRVATIONS.

327

moved the whole body, and also came up to the
surface of the water to draw breath.

We collected three hundred and eighteen kinds
of the autumnal plants, in Chili, among which, one
hundred and sixty-eight Dicotyledones, thirty-five
MonocotyledoneSt and only fifteen Filices; con-
sequently, the proportion of the Dicotyledones to
the Monocotyledones is five to one. From the port
of Talcaguano to the town of Conception we could
observe three distinct Floras or kinds of vege-
tation : the first on low hills, covered with clay,
towards the sea, was distinguished by its beautiful
myrtle groves, and thickets of Guevina, in the
shade of which grew large parasite plants, Lianes,
for example, Lapageria, Lardizabala, &c. The
more unfruitful spots of these eminences, were
made green by the shrub-like Pitcaimia coarctata,
with long prickly leaves. The second Flora was
in the large sandy valley, scarcely rising above the
level of the sea, and extending from Talcaguano
to Conception ; (Enotherce and Corymbiferw were
chiefly in blossom at this season. The third
Flora commenced at Conception, on the mountains
of mouldering granite. We hardly touched upon
this at all. «

In Easter Island, we could not find, all along he
west coast, any of the numerous statues, described
by all navigators who have visited this island ; only
a pedestal seemed to remain -, we saw four upright
black blocks on the S. E. coast, but at a great dis-

1:1^

3^

APPENDIX.

|il';l

tance, which we must consider as such statues. Of
the pierced and extended er^-laps, which were
formerly in fashion, we only saw one instance, in
an old islander. The stone on the part of the
shore where we landed was old brown lava. The
tattooing of the face consisted chiefly of one stripe,
running all round, near which were several round
spots, at equal distances from each other. Some
had the face entirely tattooed, so that only a few
red spots remained, which showed the colour of
the skin. ^ The lips of all we saw were dyed either
blue or black. Many of the people were thickly
marked with black dots, from the instep to the
knee. Of the domestic animals, we only saw one
fowl. On the 7th of April we caught a Salpa
bipartita, Labill. which was very different from all
other Salpce, At the same time 1 likewise ob-
tained the only true marine insect hitherto known,
which has much resemblance to the Fe/f'a, Latr.
It runs with great rapidity on the surface of the
sea (like the Hydrometra rivulorum, F.) and lives
in all seas under the torrid zone. ''

The inhabitants of the Penrhyn islands were
not tattooed ; some of them had their hair cropped,
and others wore a wreath of black feathers round
their head ; some of them also wore a small mat
on the shoulder, to serve as a mantle. In each of
the boats, which are furnished with an out-rigger,
was an elderly man, who had a whole cocoa-leaf
hung round his neck, some of the foliola, on one

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

3^29

side, being fastened together. On the out-rigger,
they had tied a number of lances of cocoa-wood,
about two fathoms long, which they first declined
to barter for iron. They kept up an incessant
loud nc:se, distorted their eyes, and made other
savage motions, to make themselves appear
terrible. Their boats were very simple, resem-
bling a trough, and composed of many pieces, but
did not seem adapted to sailing ; in general, there
were six men in each. They seemed to call iron
(as on Easter Island) Hoio : they appeared not to
understand the word taboo, or rather did not know
what we meant by using it, as the word is, to them
a very serious one. Waihini seemed, in their
language, also to be a denomination for a woman.
They brought us nothing eatable, with the excep-
tion of green cocoa-nuts j they, however, seemed
to be very well fed. . »- <. .

On the 13th of May, (after we had been only
two days in the northern hemisphere,) we har-
pooned a dolphin for the first time, (^Delphinm
DelphiSy Lin.) The head ended in a long snout ;
on each side of its jaw we counted twenty-three
teeth, that is in all ninety-two. This day we like-
wise, for the first time, caught a Velella, the inter-
nal gristly shell of which, went from the front
angle of the left side, in the under membrane, to
the back angle of the right side, (placing the ani-
mal with one of the longer sides of the under mem-
brane towaids the spectator.) This TefeZ/rt was

\^i I

330

ArrENDix.

If

•I I

F*
^

about three inches long, and rather narrow ; the
shell was of a light brown colour, the membraneous
edge of the sail scarcely blue. We caught, at the
same time, a Porpita. On the 1st of June, during
a calm, we caught a second VeLila, the shell of
which and the sail in the membrane, had an oppo-
site direction to the first, which we caught on the
13th of May. The largest specimens were only
an inch and a half long ; the feelers, which in the
former were light brown, and blue only at the
end, had here a blue colour from the basis, and
the points reddish yellow. The shell was of a very
light yellow colour, and only the lower membrane
tinged blue on the edge. On this day, we also
caught iiGlaucus,y/hich differed from Blumenbach's
G. Atlantkus only in being smaller. The follow-
ing day we saw a grey gull, (Procellaria Jurcata,
Pall.) flying about in great numbers.

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.:ii .>.>-v

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331

• ■ 'i' • UV)^'

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>. I

ON THE CORAL ISLANDS.

I. THEin ORIGIN.

ru'y

1 HE low islands of the South Sea and Indian Ocean
mostly owe their origin to the operations of several
species of coral. Their situation with respect to
each other, as they often form rows, their union in
several places in large groups, and their total ab-
sence in other parts of the same seas, make us con-
elude, that the corals have founded their buildings
on r^^hoals in the sea ; or, to speak more correctly,
on M lops of mountains lying under water. On
the ' side as they increase, they continue to
approach the surface of the sea, on the other side
they enlarge the extent of their work. The larger
species of corals, which form blocks measuring
several fathoms in thickness, seem to prefer the
more violent surf on the external edge of the reef;
this, and the obstacles opposed to the continuation
of their life, in the middle of a broad reef, by the
amassing of the shells abandoned by the animals
and fragments of corals, are probably the reason
that the outer edge of the reef first approaches
the surface. As so6n as it has reached such a
height, that it remains almost dry at low water,
at the time of ebb, the corals leave ofl' building

I

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i 111

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li

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Bl lilt I

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332

APPENDIX.

i ►

1 H

t^ if

■"i -Bit. 11

higher; sea-shells, fragments of coral, sea-hedge-
hog shells, and their broken off prickles are united
by the burning sun, through the medium of the
cementing calcareous sand, which has arisen from
the pulverisation of the above-mentioned shells,
into one whole, or solid stone, which, strengthened
by the continual throwing up of new materials,
gradually increases in thickness, till it at last be-
comes so high, that it is covered only during some
seasons of the year by the high tides. The heat
of the sun so penetrates the mass of stone when
it is dry, that it splits in many places, and breaks
off in flakes. These flakes, so separated, are raised
one upon another by the waves at the time of high
water. The always active surf throws blocks of
coral (frequently of a fathom in length, and three
or four feet thick) and shells of marine animals
between and upon the foundation stones; after
this the calcareous sand lies undisturbed, and offers
to the seeds of trees and plants cast upon it by
the waves, a soil upon which they rapidly grow
to overshadow its dazzling white surface. Entire
trunks of trees, which are carried by the rivers
from other countriev-^ and islands, find here, at
length, a resting place, afler their long wanderings :
with these, come some small animals, such as lizards
and insects, as the first inhabitants. Even before
the trees form a wood, the real sea-birds nestle
here ; strayed land-birds take refuge in the bushes ;
and at a much later period, when the work has

13

THE CORAL ISLANDS.

S33

been long since completed, man also appears,
builds his hut on the fruitful soil formed by the
corruption of the leaves of the trees, and calls
himself lord and proprietor of this new creation. ;

»"

t -I Mi'

II. FARTHER FORMATION AND PECULIARITIES

. tib./ OF THE CORAL ISLANDS. ,

In the preceding account we have seen how the
exterior edge of a sub-marine coral edifice first
approaches the surface of the water, and how this
reef gradually assumes the properties of land ; the
island, therefore, necessarily has a circular form,
and, in the middle of it, an enclosed lake. This
lake, is, however, not entirely enclosed ; (and it
could not be, for, without supply from the sea,
it would soon be dried up by the rays of the sun,)
but the exterior wall consists of a great number
of smaller islands, which are separated from each
other by sometimes larger, sometimes smaller
spaces. The number of these islets amounts in
the larger coral islands to sixty; and between them
it is not so deep, but that it becomes dry at the
time of ebb. The interior sea has, in the middle,
generally a depth of from thirty to five and thirty
fathoms; but on all sides, towards the lar.d, the
depth gradually decreases. In those seas, where
the constant monsoons prevail, where, consequently
the waves beat only on one side of the reef or

m

II

id

lk;'»

I

'■■i

li

I

8

3.S4.

APPENDIX.

island, it is natural that this side of the reef, ex-
posed to the unremitting fury of the ocean, should
be formed chiefly by broken off blocks of coral,
and fragments of shells, and flrst rise above the
element that created it. It is only these islands,
respecting the formation and nature of which we
hitherto know any thing with certainty; we are
still almost entirely without any observations on
those in the Indian and Chinese sea, which lie in
the regions of the six months* monsoons. From the
charts given of them, it is to be inferred that
every side is equally advanced in formation. The
lee-side of such a coral reef in the Pacific Ocean,
which is governed by the constant monsoons, fre-
quently does not show itself above the water, when
the opposite side, since time immemorial, has at-
tained perfection in the atmospheric region ; the
former reef is even interrupted in many places by
intervals tdierably broad, and of the same depth as
the inner sea, which have been left by nature like
open gates for the exploring mariner to enter the
internal calm and secure harbour. In their exter-
nal form, the Coral islands do not resemble each
other ; but this, and the extent of each, probably
depends on the size of the sub-marine mountain
tops, on which their basis is founded. Those
islands, which have more length than breadth, a^^d
arc opposed in their greatest extent to the wind
and waves, are richer in fmitful islands than those
whose situation is not so adapted to a quick fbrm-

%

THE CORAL ISLANDS.

ssrj

ation. In tlie large island-chains there are always
some single islets, which have the appearance of
high land : these lie upon an angle projecting into
the sea, are exposed to the surf from two sides,
consist, therefore, almost entirely of large blocks
of coral, and are destitute of smaller fragments
of shells and coral sand to fill up the intervals.
They are, therefore, not adapted to support
plants requiring a depth jf soil, and only afford
a basis to high trees, provided with fibrous
roots, (as the Pisonia, Cordia Sebastiana, L.
Morinda cttrifoUa, L. and Pandanus odoratissimus,
L.) which, at a distance, give to these, always very
small, islands the form of a hill. The inner shores
of the island, exposed to the surf, consist of fine
sand, which is washed up by the tide. Between
the small islands, under their protection, and even
in the middle of the inner sea, are found smaller
species of coral, which seek a quiet abode, form
in time, though very slowly, banks, till they at
last reach the surface of the water, gradually
increase in extent, unite with the islands that
surround them, and at lenfjth fill up the inner
seas ; so that what was at first a ring of islands,
becomes one connected land. The islands which
are so far formed, retain in the middle a flat place,
which is always lower than the wall that surroiuuls
tliem on the banks ; for which reason pools of wa-
ter are formed in them afler a continued rain —
the only springs and wells they possess. Among the

M

I'

336

^as^ APPENDIX. PHV

peculiarities of these islands is, that no dew falls
in the evening, that they cause no tempests, and
do not check the course of the wind. The very
low situation of the country sometimes exposes
the inhabitants to great danger, and threatens their
lives, when the waves roll over their islands, if it
happens that the equinox and full moon fall on the
same day, (consequently when the water has
reached its greatest height,) and a storm agitates
the sea at the same time. These islands are said
to be also shaken by earthquakes.

. •« ■ T I-

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337

^'-,,. a,

ON THE

NATURE OF THE ROCKS

ON THE COAST OF . ' •* <

NEW CALIFORNIA, THE ISLAND OF OONALASHKA,
AND THE COASTS OF BEERING*S STRAITS,

ACCORDING TO THE OBSERVATIONS MADE THERE, AND
i ; MINERALS COLLECTED BY DR. ESCHSCHOLTZ.

BY

>.

MORITZ VON ENGELHARDT.

Dr. Eschscholtz gave me the minerals which he
had collected, that I might examine them, and
had the politeness to give me information respecting
the situation in which each specimen was found ;
this was the origin of the following remarks, and
the list accompanying them. ' ' '

M. V. E.

NEW CALIFORNIA.

The northern tongue of land running into the
sea, on which the little fortress of St. John, at the
entrance of the bay of San Francisco lies, consists
of serpentine rock, which is also found farther
south on the steep shores of the sea coast. With

VOL. III. »

ii

i

iVi

338

APPENDIX.

II

U

il

it are mixed, amianthus, scaly talc, magnetic
pyrites, and bronzite, (or Schiller Spar), mine-
rals which in other countries usually accompany
the serpentine in a similar manner, and afford here
an additional proof of the regular course of tlie
process, of the formation of the earth. The same
is shown by the manner of the stratification.
It is well known that in most primitive rocks, the
serpentine appears on the outside, that is, there
where its last layers, (that uniformly cover the other
rocky strata,) border on the floetz mountain; in
Saxony for instance, at the circumference of the
white stone, the slaty covering of which adjoins
rocks of later formation ; on the south side of the
Swiss Alps, (near Aviglia and Yvrea), where the
plain of Piemont begins with compound mountains
(Schiitthiigel) j in Silesia, in the Zobten mountain,
which extends far into the level country, and in
the same manner on the coast of New California.
Not only does a piece of serpentine that divides
into flakes, which was thrown upon a sand-bank
by the current coming from the interior of the bay,
prdVe that it laid between slates, because the ser-
pentine could not change its otherwise compact
mass, except by this means j but the clay-slate itself
appears in the low rock at the foot of the serpentine
wall, and these border on sand-stone, and conglo-
merate, the cliffs of which occupy the narrow
border of the coasts. The vicinity of the sea is
common to the serpentine of New California, with

NATURE OF THE ROCKS.

339

the serpentine at Cape Lizard, on the Shetland
islands, and on the Cordillera oftlie coasts of South
America. If we consider that the sea formerly
covered those countries whicli contain the floetz
mountains, which are rich in petrefactions, and ad-
mit the hypothesis, that primitive mountains, which
were not covered by the floetz mountains, rose as
islands above these seas, it appears how the ser-
pentine of what is now the interior country for-
merly lay equally situated on the coasts ; an analogy,
which,if thoroughly investigated, may lead in future
to important conclusions respecting these and other
kinds of rock, in the history of the formation of the
surface of the earth.

'f'i-r'

u.r

OONALASHKA.

Dr. Lanosdorff reports, in his voyage round the
world, that this island consists of granite and
porphyry, as Kamtschatka, and the whole chain of
the Aleutian islands, from the noith-west coast of
America, contains nothing but primitive rock.
From the beautiful series of specimens of rock
which have been brought from Oonalashka, and in
which only the wood-stone (Lythoxyloti) is wanting,
which Dr. Eschscholtz, however, frequently saw
there, it appears that older sand formation prevails
with amygdaloid, porphyry, claystone, and jasper.
Lavender-blue and brown-red clay-iron-stone
forms the paste of these kinds of rocks, which

z 2

340

i>':: APPENDIX,

■0

change into each other. The amygdaloid con-
tains calcspar, much green earth, stilbite, glassy
felspar, also small nests of red iron-stone; the
porphyry, properly only a condensed amygda-
loid paste, sometimes becomes jasper, and has,
besides the minerals already mentioned, also small
crystals of common felspar. Where green earth
was accumulated, tlie colour of the stone changed
into grey green ; where flinty earth and iron pre-
vails, it increases in hardness, where they are
wanting it becomes clay, and changes into sand-
stone, resembling that of coal.

These kinds of rock (most of which have a
striking similarity with those which are met with
in the interior of the same formation, upon the
Nahe, on the left bank of the Rhine, and in the
north of Germany) were found partly on the east,
partly on the west side of Captain *s Harbour, (a
bay of the north coast,) in steep pointed rocks,
which are subject to continual changes. Where
travellers formerly saw and sketched conical sum-
mits, (as SaritschefF did,) there were now saddle-
shaped hollows ; the fragments of the former sum-
mit covered the sides j where Dr. Eschscholtz,
during his first stay at Oonalashka, in the year
1816, had seen these hollows flat, he found them
farther hollowed out on his second visit to Oona-
lashka, in 1817, and the formerly low round tops
of the lateral boundary changed into small peaks.
Earthquakes had not now been the cause of those

NATURE OF THE UOCKS.

341

changes, but, probably, tlie unequal solidity of the
stone composing the masses of rock which are
piled one over the other. In places where I had
opportunities of observing these formations, I saw,
analagous to the change of the clayey, flinty, and
sandy places, in one and the same layer, masses of
crumbly clay, slate, loose sandstone, and conglo-
merate, firm porphyry and amygdaloid, alternate
with each other ; and of the two last, grotesque
rocks, and rugged walls, produced by the vvashint^
away and sinking together of their softer "ntei'e-
nient layers, rising among dreary nilv^.

Not less interesting than the kinds of rocks just
mentioned is the appearance of the pcrrJiyry-slule
and rocks resembling basalt, at Oon.ilashk!?, Do
they belong here to the formation of the older
floetz sandstone, or to the floetz trap? The?e
questions, which force themselves upon us, caruiot
indeed be satisfactorily answered for want of know-
ledge of the stratification of the two kinds of .ock,
but the supposition may be hazarded, *^hat these
rocks belong to the floetz trap. Indissolubility,
greater hardness, by which the piece No. 30.
is distinguished from real basalt, seem to be
owing to quartz and augite, winch here form a
chief ingredient of the rock, though ot.iervsise
only sprinkled, like porphyry, ii> bi'S»dt. But that
this stone contains augite, sp*^ nks for the affinity
with the real floetz trap, vviiich is farther confirmed
_. .... . z 3

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IS'

34,2

APPENDIX.

by the porphyry slate, which (occurring only in
this formation) likewise contains this fossil.

If the supposition which adopts at Oonalashka
members of the family of floetz trap, is correct, it
^'ill be a confirmation of the near relation that has
been often noticed elsewhere between these form-
ations and volcanoes ; an affinity which must be
equally interesting to the Neptunists and to the
Vulcanists, though there is but little hope that
their contest will be decided on this remote field.

From the shores of the harbour of St. Peter and
St. Paul, in Kamtschatka, green, yellow, and brown-
red jasper was brought, which is stated to lie there in
horizontal layers ; we also have from the peninsula,
without any knowledge of the place where it was
found, a beautiful calc-spar crystallization, (H.'s
equi-axe) on scales of chalcedony, and brown semi-
opal, the fragment of a kernel of the amygdaloid.
The southern Kamtschatka, therefore, probably
contains the same kind of rocks as Oonalashka ;
and as, according to Mr. LangsdorfF, the Aleutian
islands, which lie between both, resemble Oona-
lashka in the exterior as in the volcanoes, it is to be
conjectured that the whole chain consists of floetz
i'ock.

-i*

? ', BEEIIINC S STRAIT.

Saline marble, resembling that which forms the
ruined rocks of St. Lawrence Bay, is regularly
found aM strata in mica slate, and this probably is

19

NATURE OF i'HE ROCKS.

343

likewise the case on the Tschukutskoi coast, as the
specimens brought from thence contain white-
grained calcareous stone sprinkled with silver-white
mica, and graphite is also found in the neighbour-
hood, which generally belongs to the mica slate.
Of the kind of rock itself, we have a specimen
from Kotzebue's Sound, lying opposite, where it
may be found in the neighbouring mountains.
The mica is silver-white, like that which the lime-
stone contains; may not, therefore, the hypothesis
be allowed, that the primitive rock continues from
Asia to America, and that both continents were
once united at Beering's Strait? As the one
coast (the Asiatic) is said to be steep, the opposite
one flat, they are to each as the banks of a river
and side valleys, forming by running waters. The
supposition of a later separation is therefore not
contradicted by the nature of the strair.

No direct observation has informed us what kinds
of rock occupy the space between Beering's
Strait and the Aleutian islands ; but as on the north
side of Oonalashka a layer of gneiss syenite was
found, and in Kotzebue's Sound a very remarkable
porphyritic syenite, these formations may perhaps
serve as a basis for the floetz mountains of the
Aleutians. In this case the extended basin be-
tween the above mentioned island-chain and New
California, appears to be an inlet bounded by two
groups of primitive rock, and filled with floetz
rock, whose similar formations (sand-stone, conglo-

z 4

344

APPENDIX.

merate, jasper) rise on both sides of the basin.
Their stratification seems to be regular; for if you
draw a line between the conglomerate rocks and
the serpentine near Saint John, to the north side
of the Bay of San Francisco, where Dr. Eschscholtz
saw rocks of a red-brown colour, and which were con-
sidered to be conglomerate ; and extend the line to
the S. W., it meets the volcanic Sandwich islands,
and has exactly a similar direction with the Aleu-
tian islands, from Alashka to Atha.

It is remarkable, that as in many other places
where masses of land are separated, here too, vol-
canic islands lie before the entrance of Beering's
Strait. Has the whole chain of the Aleutians
risen from the sea like the island that rose
in the year 1795 or 1797, near Umnack? Or
are here only summits of a chain of mountains, the
bases of which are at the bottom of the ocean ? Or
are they remains of a rocky dam that has been
rent asunder ? The answer to these questions might
perhaps be obtained, if the nature of the rocks of
the two coasts of Asia and America, from Beer-
ing's Straits to the chain of the Aleutians, and
this chain itself were examined ; but of this we can
have little hopes, so long as, in voyages of discovery,
even on accessible coasts, attention shall be paid
* to the collection of plants and animals, but no re-
gard had to the formation of the earth, though a
firm basis of physical geography is to be sought in
this alons. Till the importance of geognosis is more

NATURL OF THE ROCKS.

315

generally acknowledged, and accurate observations
made in remote parts of ^he earth, we can form
only conjectures on the nature of it, drawn from a
comparison of circumstances of its structure that
are merely hinted at, with others more accurately
determined. - .r...

'» ■■■.,» I

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346

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15,-'

LIST OF THE MINERALS

COLLECTED BY DR. ESCHSCHOLTZ,

-,■■■'-. -■ ' . t .> -

AND PRESENTED TO THE CABINET OF NATURAL CURIOSITIES OF
THE UNIVERSITY OF DORPAT.

V \ 3

li!' ti I

FROM THE COAST OF NEW CALIFORNIA.

1. Common Serpentine crossed in all directions
by bliieish and greenish-white steatite, which en-
closes veins of amianthus, (^Asbestus ?) : contains
tombac-brown bronzite in single folia: slighii^
affects the magnetic-needle. — From the rock of the
sea coast, south of the fortress of St. John, at the
entrance of the Bay of San Francisco.

^. Common Serpentine, intermixed with scaly
talc: contains magnetic pyrites, interspersed in
small crystals, also small folia of bronzite.,— Is
found with No. 1 .

3. Serpentine approaching the noble , with
greenish-white earthy talc in undulating lamella}.
— From a sand-bank in the Bay of San Fran-
cisco.

4. Serpentine which approaches the noble. Fis-
sures separate the stone into angular and roundish
pieces, the superficies of which is spread over with
a tiiin layer of chalcedony, which is covered with
aciculur arragonite. The amianth veins which

>SITIBS OF

LIST OF MINEHALS.

347

traverse the serpentine are not heaved by tlic fis-
sures which cross them. — From the sand-bank.

.5. Scaly-taky leek and olive-green ; of a greasy
aspect, tolerably soft, very friable, adheres strongly
to the tongue. — From the rocks of the coast.

(i. Scaly-talc and Serpentine^ lying in flakes over
one another, crossed by amianth. The mountain-
green scaly-talc, clearly an intimate mixture of
amianth, (Asbesttis?) and steatite. — From the
rocks of the coast.

7. Black contorted Clai/'Slate, The surfaces of
the lamellae, when newly broken, are shining,
striped brownish-grey. — Low rocks along the sea-
coast, at the foot of the serpentine-stone wall.

8. Greenish-grey Sand-stone and Conglomerate.
Quartz grains united without visible cement, form
the chief mass, in which fragments of clay-slate and
heliotrop are imbedded.

9. Heliotrop, a large fragment from the conglo-
merate, which is still united to it.

10. Compact Green-stone, with sprinkled iron
pyrites. — Fragment from the conglomerate.

11. Brown yellow Sand-stone, composed of quartz
grains and many fragments of clay-slate. — Forms
rocks which run into the sea at the foot of the ser-
pentine rock.

12. Ferruginous, reddish-brown common 7fl.?/w?r,
liaving a metallic lustre, and many small fissures,
which are filled up by calcareous spar. — From the
sand-bank — the bay.

i

,i.

It:

1:

348

APPENDIX.

13. Jasper t passing into brown iron-stone. The
surface, where broken, of a metallic lustre. — With
the conglomerate. No. 8., rocks which project out
of the sea.

14. Conchoidal Honi'Stone, flamed, flesh-coloured,
greenish-grey, and greyish-white. Finely sprinkled
with iron pyrites. — Found loose near No. 13.

I" »4

' - FROM OONALASHKA. ^* ;

15. Greenish-grey small-grained Sandstone, re-
sembling coaly sand-stone (JSteinkohlen sand-skin) .
with fragments of clay-slate and pieces of a fossil,
too small to be distinguished, which is dark-olive,
and leek-green, transparent, soft, and having a
conchoidal fracture. — Thrown up by the sea,
near the settlement of Illuluk, in Captain's Har-
bour.

16. Reddish and greenish-grey Sand-stone.
Finer grained and firmer than the preceding.
Reddish-grey calcareous clay iron-stone (Eisen-
thon')y is the cement of the quartz grains. — From
the shores of Captain's Harbour.

17. Dark lavender-blue Clay Iron-stone, with a
fine-grained uneven fracture, a tendency to slati-
ness, and the surface ochreous ; lying on the moun-
tain east of the settlement.

18. Clai/ Iron-stone and Green Earth mixed, so
that in some places the one predominates, and
sometimes the other. — Situated on the west side
of Captain's Harbour.

LIST OF MINERALS.

349

19. Amygdaloid; mass of clay iron-stone, like
No. 17. only firmer. It has longisii pores, ofwhicli
some are empty, others filled with green earth
and lithomarge. Glassy felspar in small crystals.
Globular masses covered by pieces of green earth,
passing into apple-green lithomarge. — Over
No. 17.

20. Amygdaloid i as the preceding, but without
felspar, also with nests of compact red iron ore,
enveloped in the green earth. — As No. I9.

21. Amygdaloid ; the green earth finely sprinkled j
the calcareous spar in small masses and nests, rare ;
glassy felspar is abundant ; hence the whole is
like porphyry. — From the shores of Captain's
Harbour, near Illuluk.

22. Clay Iron stone, separating into spherical
masses, almost quite compact, spotted by green
earth ; rendered like porphyry, by crystals of felspar.
— On the shore near the settlement.

23. Porphyry, Blueish, brown, red mass of clay
iron-stone, with felspar crystal. — As No. 22.

24. Porphyry, Dark red brown, compact and
quartzy paste, with brown-red jasper veins, greenish
felspar crystals, and single small masses of
zeolite. ; ; ,

25. Brown-red Porphyry, with small crystals
of compact felspar, tinged by green earth, — As
No. 22.

26. Porphyry-slate, Greenish-grey, with many
white glassy felspar crystals, raven black and

350

APPENDIX.

dark olive-green augite crystals and grains, en*
closing iron pyrites. — Layers from Captain's
Harbour.

27. Porphyry^ weather-worn ; as are also the
felspar crystals, which are earthy and greenish-
grey. — On the western side of Captain's Har-
bour, with No. 18.

28. Grey-green Porphyry ^ full of spots of green
earth and felspar crystals. — Under No. 27.

29. Amygdaloid, The mass by exposure is be-
come earthy and greenish-grey, contains cal-
careous spar, covered by stilbite. — Layers from
Illuluk.

30. Stones resembling basalt. Brownish black,
fine-grained, tolerably hard, lustre glistening,
sprinkled in with augite, and porphyrylike in
crystals, (Hauy*s Pyroxene hemitrope.) Specific
gravity 2,701. — From the foot of the so called
great volcano on the west coast of the island.

31. Compact liver-brown and bluish-black
spotted stone, with fine pointed crystals of a
brown-red, very sofi, undefinable mineral, and
with a finely-sprinkled felspar, in incipient de-
composition. Fracture, straight lamellae. Blueish
earthy mould covers the surface of the clefls, and
red hematite penetrates into the mass from with-
out. Specific gravity 2,621. —Layers from the
west side of Captain's Harbour.

32. Yellowish white Clay-stone, with red jasper

LIST OF MINERALS.

351

veins, which contain small ch'usy cavities of Me-
sotype. — Layers from Illuluk.

33. Brick-coloured common Jasper^ allied to
eisenkiesel. — As No. dS.

34. Small Rock Crystals, — From cavities of the
almond-stone, which lies east of Illuluk. > ;

35. Blueish-white almost compact quartzy FeU
spar Rock, with nests of reddish-white porcelain
earth, and much, finely-sprinkled iron pyrites. — •
Lies in beds at Illuluk.

36. Gneiss Syenite, — Layers from the northern
sea coast, near Captain's Harbour.

FROM ST. LAWRENCE BAY.

37. White small-grained Calcareous Spar, with
silver-white scaly mica.— Forms rocks on the south
end of the bay.

38. Calcareous Spar, sprinkled with plumbago.
A flat mass, which appears to have filled up »
cleft.

40. and 41. Foliated Plumbago,

• ■ 1

FROM KOTZEBUE*S SOUND.

42. Silvery-white Mica-slate, with noble garnet
in small crystals.

43. Porphyritic Syenite, red mass of felspar,
with tolerably large crystals of hornblende and
felspar.— Both are from the beds of the Rocky
Island in the Sound.

r

352

APPENDIX.

FROM KAMTSCHATKA.

44. Greenish-yellow Jasper, resembling horn-
stone.

45. Red Jasper, — From the shore of the har.
hour of St. Peter and St. Paul, where the red
jasper is imbedded in red, and with this is stratified
horizontally.

46. Crystallized Calcareous Spar, (H.*s inverse),
on grey-blue chalcedony and brown-semi-opal.
Fragment of a large kernel of the amygdaloid. —
Locality unknown.

FROM THE ISLAND OF OWHYEE.

47. Scoriaceous Lava, resembling the dross of a
forge. Near the under surface of a longish quad-
rangulai* specimen, a more compact layer of lava
runs through the porous mass, and which in one
half of the piece repulses the north pole of the
magnetic needle, and attracts it in the other.

48. Scoriaceous Lava, with a very shining surface,
almost compact. Strikes fire with steel, and has
no influence at all on the magnet. — Both pieces
from a stream of lava from the Mouna Wororai, on
the west side of this island.

FROM THE ISLAND OF GUAHON.

49. Compact Lime'Stone, flamed, flesh-coloured,
and reddish-white. Has a fine texture almost
even in the fracture, and several faint traces of
petrifaction. — From steep rocks on the S. W.
coast.

- \

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I

:ir,s

DESCRIPTION

OF

A NEW SPECIES OF MONKEY.

(PRESBYTIS MITRATA.)

bv frederick eschscholtz.
(with a drawing.)

The generic character is : Angidus facialis GO
graduum, Sacaili bticcales milli. Nates ti/liis
instructs. Cauda elongata, Antipedes genu
attingentes.

This monkey was brought us for sale, by the
inhabitants of Sumatra, on our passage through the
Straits of Sunda ; it was tame, but lived scarcely
a day on board. As, on classing the mon-
keys, an essential difference was found to distin-
guish it from all the species hitherto known, 1
thought proper to assign to it a peculiar species
under the name of Preshytis, on account of its
resemblance to an old woman, with a cap on her
head. Its length, from the head to the beginning
of the tail, is about a foot and a half. The back is
covered with finely-curled (or wavy) hair, two
inches long ; which is of a yellowish- white colour,

VOL. III. A A

H

?lt!

354

APPENDIX.

ii,

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I
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at the roots, and towards the tip, a bhieisli-grey ;
the back part of the head is also covered with a
similar long hair, r^the same colour, which stands
erect, and gives the monkey the appearance of
having on a fur cap. This greyish hair is bor-
dered by a black arched band, formed of hair
three quarters of an inch long, and extending from
the place where the zygoma joins the coronal bone,
to the upper edge of the ear, and from thence
directly across the head. The whole space be-
tween this band and the eye-brows is thickly
covered with yellowish hairs, of which those nearest
the band measure a full inch ; but those near the
eye-brows only half an inch. Only one very
raised place in the middle of the forehead, lying-
above the eye-brows, is almost bare of hair, aiul
shows the black skin. A few single straight black
hairs, nearly an inch long, may be considered as
the eye-Lrows, v hich, however, extend over the
nose. The concha of the ear has not a very broad
edge ; its skin is of a reddish colour, and it has on
it long yellowish hair ; an ear-lap is also percepti-
ble. The colour of the skin of the face is alniosf
black ; both eye-lids however, (the upper is par-
ticularly broad,) are reddish. The lij)s are co-
vered with short whitish hair.

The hair on the under side of the body nica-
sures almost two inches, and is white. The tail is
longer than the body, covered with pretty lon*^
hair every where, at the top blurish grey, beneath

A NEW SPECIES OF MONKEY.

355

greyish yellow ; at the end is a tuft of yellow hair
an inch and a half long. The arms of the animal
reach almost to the knee when standing erect ; the
liair on the upper side is whitish grey, on the un-
der side of the upper arm white and woolly ; on
the fore-arm yellowish, straight and close. The
liands are covered on the back with rcddish-brown
hair, (as far as the last joint of the finger,) the
fore-fingers are particularly long and narrow ; but
the thumb is very short, as it reaches only to the
half of the middle of the hand. The two middle
fingers are much larger than the two others. The
nails of the fore-fingers are long semi-cylindrical,
a little bent, which makes them have a resemblance
to claws, but round, and in the form of a nail at
the tip. Only the nail of the fore-finger is
obliquely blunted, which gives it a small point on
the inner side. The nails of the thumb arc short,
raised, depressed and rounded off' at the edge.
The skin of the bare palm of the hand is reddish.
The long white hairs of the hind feet have a woolly
appearance ; the hands oti the back are here also
covered with reddish -brown hair; llicy are longer
than liie fore-hands, with wliicli they agree in
every other particular.

On both sides of the rump are two roundish
bare callous places, of a yellowish-brown colour.

With respect to the form of the face, it has only
to be observed, that the zygoma projects very
much, while the nose is very little, and scarcely

V 2

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3.50

APPENDIX.

raised ; seen in proBie, the projection of the foro-
head, the nose, the upper jaw, and the gums of the
under jaw, make almost a straight line.

I can add a few words respecting the skeleton :
the skull is pretty round, the jaw-bone not much
projecting, as the facial angle is sixty degrees ; on
the sagittal suture, no trace of a crista ; the nasal-
bone very small, triangular, two lines long ; the
inter-maxillary bones, begin already above the
nasal bones ; there are only twenty-eight teeth in
my female specimen, which, to judge from the
blackness of them, was already full-grown ; the
corner teeth scarcely larger than the others. There
are twelve pretty short vertebra? of the back ; the
vertebrae of the loins, are seven in number, long,
and with broad transverse processes ; the os sacrum
consists of three vertebrjE, of which only two join
the OS ilium, and, lastly, the tail is formed of twen-
ty-eight longish joints, without processes. Of the
twelve ribs, seven arc primary, and five secondary;
the two lowest secondary ribs are not attached to
the place of junction of two vertebrae, but are
fixed to the body of one. Of the shoulder-blade,
it is also to be observed, that the coracoidal pro-
cess, which is here long, is divided as a sei)arate
bone J but is rendered only half moveable, by a
narrow gristle. The sternum consists of five bones,
lying longitudinally.

357

REMARKS

ON THE

PHYSIOLOGY AND NATURAL HISTORY

OF THE

MEDUSA, VELELL^, AND PORPIT^.

BY

FREDERICK ESCHSCHOLTZ.

1 HOUGH the number of authors who have written
on these animals is not small, yet the more accu-
rate observer often finds many things which he
may add to what is already known, particularly in
what relates to their mode of life. These three
kinds of animals clearly belong to one order :
1. Because they remain nearly passive, swimming
on the surface of the sea in search of prey ; 2. Be-
cause, besides the body adapted for swimming on
the surface, they have as chief organ?, the innu-
merable stomachs and mouths ; and, 3. Are all fur-
nisheil with particular arms lor seizing their prey.
They live iii the warmer regions of all sea5 ; and
do not appear to go beyond tiu' ioi lictli degree of

latiiudf.

^ A 3

III i!

1

)\

;-{.}8

AI'rKNDIX.

I. MEDLS.E, rilYSALlA.

As we have hitherto been in error and doubt
respecting many parts of these animals, and as the
mode in which they procure food will doubtless
interest many persons, I will here give a connected
account of tiiem.

The oval bladder, vvhich forms tlie body of tlie
animal, and keeps it swimming on the surface of
the water, by the air which it contains, may be so
contracted on the back bv means oi* muscles, as to
form a sort of comb. By the assistance of this
(;omb the medusa catches the wind, and is driven
about on the surface of the water. The long spiral
arms, which are furnished on one side, from top to
bottom, A'ith kidney-sliaped suckers, liang down,
unrolled behind, and follow the floating bladder ;
as soon as a fish, or any other animal, touches them,
it is caught by the suckers, benumbed by the cor-
rosive fluid, and brought near to the bladder by a
spiral contraction of the arm, in which a large en-
tirely muscular feeler (Jentaculuni) growing to the
basis of the arm, but free at the point, seems to co-
operate. When the prey is thus brought near the
bladder, innumerable tubes, provided with suckers,
(real stomachs,) await it, seize it on all sides, and
suck in the soft and soluble parts. Thus satiated,
these tube-shaped stomachs swell and contract in
an extraordinary niatmer, the contents arc seen to
shnie tinough, like dark grains ; while quietly di-

MKDU.S,K, VKLFXL.i:, AM) POHIMTJ;. 869

gestiiig these they pay no regard to any new prey
that may approach, bnt leave it undisturbed to
their hungry neighbours.

The long arms seem to grow out singly, as one
may always be distinguished as the thickest and
longest. In some very large individuals of the
Physalia glauca we observed, indeed, two remark-
ably large arms, yet one was always larger than
the other. They are all provided at the root with
the above-mentioned muscular feeler. The tu-
bercles described by authors on the proboscis of
the bladder of the Physalia giauca, which is found
in abundance near the Cape of Good Hope, are
nothing more than little stomachs, that have not
attained their complete growth. I have convinced
myself by the examination of some full-grown spe-
cimens. In one of them, which must have made
a good booty just before, not only all the stomachs
hanging to the middle part of the bladder, but
also the above-mentioned tubercles on the pro-
boscis were filled with a reddish grainy mass ; be-
sides, they had all, like those stomachs, yellow
points, and those nearest to the bladder of the
body, could not be taken for any thing but real
stomachs, on account of their whole form and
their yellow funnel-shaped mouths. Besides these
organs, there are three round bundles of little pale
threads hanging down ; on nearer examination it
was found that each bundle consisted of two kinds
of threads, namely, of longer t ylinilrical pointed

A A 1

It J

(

I

3(k)

APPENDIX.

threads, and of shorter ones furnished with a sucker^
As a longer thread of a blueish colour always hung
(in the Physalia glauca) close to the shorter one, I
imagine that these two threads represented an un-
formed young one, hanging to the mother, and
that the longer thread was the first arm for seizing
prey, the shorter one a stomach ; it is not neces-
sary for the bladder to get filled with air, as the
young one is carried by the mother.

Wishing to see whether the small cavity at the
back process of the Physalia i^lauca was really an
opening closed by a muscular valve, I took the
bladder in the middle, pressed the air towards the
end of the back process, and saw how a small
round opening was formed in the place of the
cavity out of which the air pressed. When I left
off' pressing, the opening closed again ; the bladder
became quite slack by the air being pressed out*

II. VELELLiE.

The flat body of the velellae, swimming on the
surface of the water, has the appearance of a paraU
lelogram with rounded corners j its exterior skin
is very soft, and incloses two transparent gristles,
joined together in tne middle, and forming an
ellipse, with concentric stripes. These are a little
convex, and lie in the body in a diagonal line. On
them stands a transparent gristly semicircular sail,
also in a diagonal direction, and in such a manner,
that its enils are turned to the exterior edge of the

MEDUS.E, VKLKLL.E, AND I'OUI'IT.E. 3()\

body ; at the top, in the middle, it runs out in a
small point, and is entirely surrounded by a narrow
(probably muscular) skin, in such a manner, how-
ever, that it does not cover the point of the sail ;
beneath, this skin does not attach itself to the
body, but remains free. On the under-superficies
of the body, there is in the middle a large stomach,
in the form of a bottle, whicli is surrounded by in-
numerable smaller stomachs, as far as the elliptic
gristly mass extends. The whole border of this
gristle is covered with pretty long thin tentacula,
which, where the gristle lies near to the edge of
the body, project from under it.

The large middle stomach (which is always
considered as the only one, by authors) seems to
swallow very small animals, as we sometimes found
it filled with remnants of them; the smaller
stomachs can only suck in their booty. They are
generally white, with blue dots on the basis.

The descriptions given by most authors are
suited only to the genus, but are nowise adapted
to distinguish the species from one another. The
same may be said of the four descriptions in La-
marck, Histoire Nat. des Aninuiux sans Vertebres,
t ii. p. 480. Among those seen by us, four species
may be distinguished r

A, The gristly shell (when you turn the longest
side of the body towards you) extends from the
front angle of the right side of the body lo the
back angle of the left side.

M ;

i

i

.m

AITENOIX.

m

m

1. VelelUi, — The membrane ol' the body dark
blue; the pretty convex gristly shell is but a very
little lighter, the usual transverse line dividing the
shell in two, very deeply grooved; the skin surround-
ing the sail beneath, dark blue; above, paler; the
tentaciila, blue at the basis, at the end reddish,
yellow. Length of the body, two inches. — At the
Cape of Good Hope.

2. Velella — Membrane of the body, dark blue
only at the edge ; gristle shell, pale yellow ; the
skin enclosing the sail, colourless: the tentacular
Hi the basis, blue ; at the end, reddish yellow.
Length of the shell, scarcely an inch and a half.—
In the North Pacific Ocean, about the thirtietli
degree of latitude. (For the most part, animals not
fully grown.)

B, The gristly shell extends from the front angle
of the left side of the body, to the back angle of the
light side.

3. Velella. — Membrane of the body, dark blue ;
shell brown ; the skin enclosing the sail, pale blue ;
the tentacula, at the basis, light brown; at the end,
dark blue ; body three inches long, but much nar-
rower in proportion than the two preceding. — Du-
ller the equator, in the neighbourhood of Radack.

4. Velella. — Membrane of the body, dark blue,
shell yellow; the skin enclosing the sail, remark-
ably green. Length above two inches ; nearly an
inch and a half broad. — In the Northern Pacific
Ocean, north of the Sandwich inlands,

Hi

MKDiJs.i., vr,Li;iJ,.i , wn roitiMT.i;.

:m

HI. rOUlMTit.

The body ot the Porpita is circular, likewise
incloses a very thin transparent gristle, which is
here also circular, furnished with many (forty-two)
raised radii, and several concentric rings. The
exterior skin rises above the gristle, as a narrow
rim. There is no trace of a sail. On the under-
superficies, you observe in the middle, a large
stomach, surrounded by innumerable smaller ones,
exactly as in the veklla ; there are, likewise,
small tentacula attached to the edge of the gristle.
A peculiarity of this species is, however, their
very long, club-shaped, triangidar seizers, which
are likewise inserted in the edge of the gristle,
of different lengths and thicknesses, (according
to the age,) and provided, on their edges, with
round suckers. 'Inese are always placed at some
distance from each other, with respect to the
length of the seizer ; the suckers, however, of the
three different borders stand opposite each other j
the seizers are not regularly triangular, but one
of the superficies is much smaller than the two
others.

The Porpita seems destined to fish only on the
siutace of the sea, as it stretches out its seizers in
an horizontal direction, like radii.

The species Irequently observed by us in tl>e
North Pacific Ocean, from the equator to the 40th
degree of north latitude, has u dark violet gristly
shell J the skinny edge was blue j the stomachs

f I

J()l.

ArrENDix.

white, with blueish spots on the basis j the tentacida
dark blue ; the seizers a very little greenish, almost
transparent. The disk of the body measured, in
diameter, one inch, the seizers nearly two.

I must here repeat what I said respecting the
difference of the species of the velella, Porpita
nuda. Lam. Hist. Nat. des Anim. s. Vertebr. torn. ii.
p. 484. n. 1. is probably an individual with its seizers
torn off, such as we also have frequently caught,
because their seizers easily remain hanging in the
net, and tear off. — Porpita appendiculata. Lam. 1.
c. n. 2. is a common Porpita, mutilated by small
crabs, of the exterior skin of the edge of which
only three fragments ren.ainedj we likewise met
with such.

Porpita glandi/era, Lam. 1. c. n. 3. gives the de-
scription of an uninjured individual; also the Porpi-
ta gigantea, Lam. 1. c. n. 4. which (if it is really so)
can be distinguished from the preceding by the
blue colour of the seizers.

In conclusion, I will observe, that the Physalia
are furnished, besides the suckers, only with arms
for seizing their prey ; the Velella only with ten-
tacula, but the Porpita with both.

30.5

DESCRIPTION

OF

NEW FOREIGN BUTTERELIES,

BY

FREDERICK ESCHSCJIOL TZ.

fifiFORE I enter into the description of the
single species, I must previously observe, that
their number is not large, because the principal
objects of the expedition were, on tlie one hand,
the north ; on tlie other, the small Coral islands
in the South Sea. Besides, we visited the south-
ern climates only in the winter months, conse-
quently, at the season most unfavourable for
insects. Hence it was, that ChiH and California
furnished each but two butterflies. I did not see
one butterfly at Oonalashka, during our tolerably
long stay, at the three different seasons in which
we visited it. The richest harvest, in this respect,
was in Manilla, though the inhabitants assured us
that it was precisely the most unfavourable time
for insects.

I must also observe, that iii iiaminu \\w species.

IMAGE EVALUATION
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Photographic

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Appendix.

*

I have, in this respect, followed the example of
Latreille; (as he describes the South American
butterflies brought by Humboldt and Bompland,)
that is, I have given to the butterflies the names oi'
men of more modern times, as those of ancient
history and mythology are of no value j because, for
example, other people have ,L^ot among the Trojan
knights, (as Renmus.) Besides this, Latreille was
not the first in this respect, as Fabrizius had al-
ready adopted the names of Portlandia, Huntera,
Allionia, Blomfieldia, Banksia, Solandra, &c. Lat-
reille gives the names unchanged j but I give a
proper termination, according to the example of
Fabr'-isius, to distinguish the new from the old.

I. PAPILIO RURICKTA.

p. E, A, alts caudatis fiiscis : anticis macula
alba quadrata ad marginem posticiim ; posticis macu-
Us bifidis marginalibttSf in utraque pagina miniatis.

From Brazil, from the continent opposite to the
island of St. Catharine. — The length, from wing's
end to wing's end, is three inches and four lines.
The colour of the wings is a dark brown, with a faint
greenish lustre ; the lower wings are a little darker
above than the upper ones. On the back margin
of the upper wings there is in the middle an
almost square white, yellowish spot, which extends
from the back edge, to the second wing rib ; and is
separated near the edge, from the first broad black
tendon. Each of the lower wings has four ver-

NEW FOREIGN RUTTERFLIES.

3(>7

VV

milion spots ; the first is broad, nearly liinule at
the abdominal corner ; the three others consist each
of two conical patches, united at the basis, the
points of which are turned towards the margin ;
they occupy the three scallops following the back
angle, and always lie between two tendons. In
the other scallops, some red dots are observed as
an indication of these spots. In the hollows of
the scallops, you see, as usual, white scales. The
winged tail is half an inch long. Beneath, the
wings have a brown silky lustre ; the upper wings
have, quite at the root, a spot, and a short
brown streak under the former, of a vermilion
colour. The square white spot is also here. At
the root of the inferior wings, we also meet, under-
neath, with three red spots; from the lowest of
them, a long red stripe extends to the abdominal
corner ; it is a line distant from the inner edge.
The four red spots described on the surface of the
under-wings are also found beneath, of the same
form, but almost of a rose-colour ; the three other
scallops are here furnished with red spots, divided
ii\to two parts, which are, however, a little more
obscure than the four others. The tail, on the
under side, has also a red stripe. The feelers, legs,
and upper side of the body have a black colour ;
underneath, the body is brown. The edges of the
single joints of the feelers project so much, that
they seem to be annulated. My specimen is a
female.

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APPENDIX.

II. PAPILIO KOTZEBUEA.

. P. E, T. alis candati.s atris : posticis subtus
macidis senis marginalilms^ fasciaque transversa
abhrevtata anguli am pttrpureis ; fronte, colli
thoracis abdominisque lateribus coccineis.

From Manilla. — Some are smaller than the pre-
ceding, others larger. The colour of the wings
is black, particularly dark on the under wings. On
the upper wings of a smaller species, are four rather
imperceptible grey yellow stripes towards the back
corner, which run parallel with the back edge, in
the greater one there are scarcely any traces of
them. The under wings are distinguished by their
narrowness, and by their broad tail, which is
rounded at the end, and half an inch long. On the
back angle on the upper side, there is a longish
somewhat imperceptible red spot ; in the other
scallops, only single red dots stand together. But
on the under side, the six more or less kidney-
shaped purple coloured spots are very clear j they
stand around the whole exterior border, placed
always between two tendons. A broad band of
the same colour extends from the back angle as far
as the middle of the wing, to the third tendon, and
is intersected by two black tendons running
through it. The upper wings, on the under side,
have many grey yellow streaks, of which two
always run between two tendons, from the middle
tendon to the exterior margin. The very small

18

NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

369

palpi and the woolly forehead are a pale red. The
sides of the neck and thorax, as the grooves of the
abdomen on the sides, are vermilion ; the two last
annuli of the abdomen are quite red. I have
seen only three females. ,

III. PAPILIO CHAMISSONIA.

P. E, T. alts caudatis Jiiscis, omnibus utrinque
fascia angusta alba tratisversa, posticis utrinque
maculis octo marginalibus coccineis.

From Brazil. — Its length is three inches four
lines from wing's end to wing's end. The colour
of the wings and body is a dark green glossy brown;
the under wings become quite black towards the
margin. Three lines distant from the exterior edge
of the upper wings runs parallel with it a yellowish
white, quite straight band, scarcely half a line in
breadth, which increases a little in breadth towards
the back edge jf the wing, and is very plain on
the disks of both wings. A similar band of the
same colour extends also over the under wings,
likewise running parallel with the exterior edge,
but distant from it about six lines; it becomes
broader in the middle, and thus extended, terminates
at the innermost tendon. This band is equally
strongly marked on both sides. Opposite to each
scallop of the under wings is a vermilion transverse
spot (not unlike a wine-glass) ; a similar one stands
on the back angle, so that there are in all eight
patches. These red spots are particularly visible

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APPENDIX.

on the under side of the wing; on the upper side
the two top ones are ahnost entirely lost. Tiie
wing-tail is pretty narrow, and only three lines
long. The hairs on the forehead, the back, and the
thorax, as well as the feelers and legs, are quite
black. The palpi, many spots on the breast,
the shanks, and the sides of the body have a ver-
milion colour. ♦ . V

A remarkable pecuHarity in this butterfly is
the rolled interior edges of the lower wings, as
they are covered inside with small grey scales,
between which, on the whole length of the wing,
grows a white wool, the fibres of which are a line
in length. The same is found also in the Paj).
Vertumnus, F. and P. Sesostris, Cram. It has a
great similarity with two already-described butter-
flies, which besides have the same country with it;
for which reason I must give the differences. The
one is Pap. Agavus, Drury's Illustr. of Exot. Ins.
vol. iii. tab. ix. fig. 4. It has great resemblance
with ours, by its white band and red spots of the
lower wings, but differs much from it by the two
tailed wings; besides, ours has no large squarish
spots. Less dissimilar from it is the other. Pap,
Thyastesy (Fabr. E. S. n. 77.) as it has several
white spots on the surface of the lower wings. My
specimen is a male, • .

IV. PAPILIO IIUMANZOVIA.

P. E. A. a fit ecavdatis atris; anticis iitrinqiie posli-

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NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

371

cisqtie suhtus bast ruhris; posticis medio aJhis,margme
prcesertim subtus rubro maculatis.

From Manilla. — Its length from wing's end to
wing's end is five inches four lines. Its chief colour
is a dark pure black. The upper wings have the
usual white grey radii, which are here particularly
light; there are likewise from three to four white
stripes lengthwise, between the spaces formed by
the two chief veins. Almost at the root of the
wings is a vermilion transverse spot, which is near
four lines long, and one and a half broad. In the
middle of the under superficies of these wings the
white stripes almost entirely cover the black ground
as they greatly increase in breadth. There is here
also a red spot at the root, but it lies almost
lengthwise of the wing, extending merely between
the two chief tendons, and ending in the middle in
a roundish elongation. The lower wings are of a
very dark black, have in the middle a large uniform
white spot, which is divided into five parts by
black veins. In the back angle is a long vermilion
patch which incloses a uniform black onej an
almost square spot is on the under angle, and is
likewise vermilion. In the third space there is
the third small red spot. Towards the upper edge,
on the exterior corner, there are several sinall
sky-blue scales, which are so situated that they
form three short streaks. ;• L '

On the under side the lower wings are beauti-
fully decorated. The large white middle spot has

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372

APPENDIX.

here also almost the same form, with the exception
that the fifth innermost division of it is divided by
a red stripe, extending from the spot in the back
angle; on the other hand, a round white spot is
found in the fifth division. The red colour is here
richly distributed. A small part of the wing's base
is quite vermilion, and is divided by black veins
into five parts. The spot in the back angle, de-
scribed in the upper surface, extends almost to
those at the basis, and in the same manner the
spot in the hindermost angle fills up almost the
whole space ; a similar one is in the third division, at
the border. The spots on the three following
scallops are smaller; the last is hook-shaped. In the
uppermost space there is a large spot, pretty
narrow at the begininng, running along a great
extent of the edge, but which then turns inwards
and increases considerably in breadth, so that it
reaches to the next vein. In this broad part you
observe a large number of sky-blue scales. There
is, besides, in the middle of the wing, opposite to
the broader end of that last described, a scalloped,
not large spot, which is half red, half white. The
body, feelers, and legs, are black ; the thorax has
three transverse rows of white points. This last
circumstance, as well as the wings being red at
the basis, and the white radii on the upper wings,
could almost persuade me to take this butterfly
for a Trojan knight. My specimen is a female.

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NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

373

V. PAPILIO KRUSENSTERNIA.

P. E. A, alls ecaudatis atris : posticis supra
medio cinereis, subtus margine annulis rubris ; omni-
bus subtus basi rubris.

From Manilla. — Its extended upper wings mea-
sure four inches nine lines. The chief colour is
black. The upper wings have, towards the ex-
terior edge, only faint streaks, of greenish-grey
scales, which are, however, marked stronger on
the under side. The hinder half of the inferior
wings, with the exception of the border, is thickly
covered with greenish-grey scales ; it is divided
into several parts, by the broad black veins. In
the back angle there is a very indistinct, narrow,
red semi-circle. The upper as well as the lower
wings on the under superficies have as much
red at the root, as the preceding butterfly. The
lower wings are furnished with many variously
shaped red spots, of which some form perfect
rings, others indicate this form in simple spots.
In the back angle there is a long patch, which
runs up and down, along the first vein to -4 point,
and incloses in the middle a heart-shaped black
spot. Above this spot, some sky-blue scales shine
on a red ground. The second space is quite red
from the middle to the edge, but leaves open two
black spots, lying one above the other, of which
the upper one is larger and cornered, the under
almost round. The spot of the third space forms

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APPENDIX.

Hi

a perfect annulus ; the fourth is ahnost the same,
only that it is a little open towards the edge. In
the three other divisions there is always a crescent
at the edge and another towards the middle, with
the points turned towards the margin. The in-
ternal half-circle shows some sky-blue scales. The
body, feelers, and legs are black ; some points in
the neck, three transverse rows of points on the
breast, on each side, as well as streaks on the
thighs and legs, are white. These white spots on
the thorax, as well as the same colour of the
lower wings, at the root, in the preceding butterfly,
make me suppose that both maj be of one kind.
My specimen is a male.

VI. PAPILIO ASTENOUS, F.

From Manilla. — Of this beautiful large butter-
fly only the female had hitherto been known;
the male, which is much smaller, is however
greatly distinguished by the marking of the lower
wings, which are likewise fulvous j but the exterior
border has only narrow black scallops. Near the
scallops there are a number of black scales on a
yellow ground, and which form another row of scal-
lops, which gives this part the appearance of being
covered with black gauze. The radii on the upper
wings of the male are whitish, though they are
yellowish in the female. The narrow strong-
nerved wings of the male are remarkable, of which
the upper wings are mostly found half scaled.

NEW FOIIEIGN BUTTERFLIES.

375

It has also a narrow ring round the neck, of a
purple colour. The last great horny joint of the
body, by which the males, among the knights, may
always be exactly distinguished, is of a white
colour ; while, on the other hand, the very small
last joint of the female is covered with black hair.
None of the many males and females which I have
seen, had, on the surface of the body, (the roots of
the wings,) such red spots as are described and
di'awn by Jablonsky.

I also caught a variety of the female, which,
besides its inconsiderable size, was distinguished
by the marking of the lower wings, where the ful-
vous colour was confined to only a large spot in
the middle, as in Pap, Helena, L. the orange colour.
On the under side, a yellow point is in the broad
black border, at each tendon. The red band
round the neck is in this one also remarkably
broad. . ..^, . ,

, ..>!

VII. PAPILIO LEDEBOUIllA.

P. E, A»f alts ecaudatis atris : anticis punctis
tnarginalihus, posticts fascia transversa macidari
albis ; posticts subtus ad angulum ant lunula lutea.

From Manilla. — This butterfly, with respect to
its size and marks, has the greatest resemblance
to the Pap, Pammon, F., so that I at first hesi-
tated to consider it as a peculiar species, particu-
larly as a variety is mentioned with untailed wings.
I have seen seven specimens of this butterfly,

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376

Ari»ENDlX.

which were all untailed. The yellow longish s\yoiii,
which form the transverse band on both sides of
the inferior wings, are thrice as long as they are
broad ; they fill up the space which, in the P. Pant'
mon, (in Jablonsky*s figure, tab. xix. fig. 4.) is
covered by blue scales. On the under side of
the lower wings, in the back angle, there is a
brownish-yellow spot in the form of a crescent ;
the convex side is turned to the inner margin. In
some specimens a small red-brown point is left
also on the upper side of this spot. Besides the
usual white spots of the exterior edge of the lower
wing, between the scallops, there is on the under
superficies, opposite to each of them, another small
white transverse spot, sometimes in the form of a
crescent. The circumstance of my once having
seen this butterfly, in conjunction with the Pap,
PolyteSy F. induced me to examine my specimens,
and I found that all three of the present butterfly
were males, and my two polytes females. Both
butterflies are greatly distinguished from each
other, yet they have, on close examination, some-
thing in common, but only on the under super-
ficies. Here both have, in common, as well the
fine white longitudinal stripes at the roots of all
the wings, as the stripes on the belly, and the

white points on the thorax.

•••■'■ • • r ...->■>

VIII. VANESSA TAMEAMEA.

V, alts basifusciSf ajnce atria : anticis fascia media^

WW- ■i'^lSe^^E^I"'^} ii-

NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

377

posticis antemarginalifulva, nigro punctata ; posticis
subtus obscure viridibus, vitta lata rosacea.

From Woahoo, one of the Sandwich islands. —
This butterfly has much resemblance to the
Van, Atlanta^ L., but particularly to the Atlanta
indica (which is much distinguished as a peculiar
kind.) This one, however, of the Sandwich
islands, exceeds both considerably (a fourth part)
in size ; the wings are of a brown colour on the
upper side, from the roots to the vermilion bands.
The band of the upper wings is three lines broad,
has a longish black spot; nearly on the front edge,
towards the back edge of the wing, on the interior
edge of the band is a large round black spot ; the
space, also, between the two spots where the first
branch diverges from the large middle tendon is
black. In the black space, between the band
and the tip of the wing, there are three white
spots, of which the largest long one is on the front
edge, nearer to the band ; the smallest likewise on
the front edge, but nearer the tip, and the third
spot, of a kidney shape, is nearly in the middle.
The band of the lower wings lies a line and a
half from the exterior black edge, and extends
over four membranes, namely, over the third to
the sixth. The spots of the intervals, nearest to
the internal edge, are only half as long as the two
others, and are each marked with a large black
patch ; the third longest spot has also a dot,
though very small. At the edge of the third

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378

APPENDIX.

Space is a small blue spot, on a brown ground,
surrounded by a black ring. On the under super-
ficies, besides the upper spot in the red band of
the upper wings, there is another black spot,
which is in the triangular space of the band that
is prolonged to the root of the wing. Between
the large white patch and the band there is a
blueish stripe. The space between the two large
white patches, to the tip, is covered with scales of
a dirty green. The lower wings, upon the whole,
are, on the under side, a dirty green, with darker
scalloped bands. From the middle of the front
edge to about the middle of the wing extends a
white greenish scalloped patch. The place on the
upper side, where the red band lies, is here of a
pale rose colour, but which has a dirty look, on
account of the many green scales spread over it.
The body on the upper side is brown, covered
with greenish-grey hair beneath, as well as the
palpi and legs; the feelers black, with white clubbed
ends, eyes brown. • s: ? • ; n-. :?;< ,

Tamaahmaah, the great hero, and first king of all
the Sandwich islands. / -ev-ui rU: io A? i.<*

IX. CYNTHIA ROESELIA.

C. alts Jerrugineis, fascia lata rubra communis
anticis fascia altera alba.

From Brazil.— Of the size of the Pap* urticce, L.,
only the lower wings are narrow, elongated, and the
corner of the exterior edge so much protruded, that
the wings might almost be called tailed. Tiie ground

NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

379

colour of the wings, on the surface, Is blackish-
brown ; a vermilion band, from two to three lines in
breadth, runs transversely over the superior wings,
continues lengthwise over the lower wings, and
terminates in a point before the back edge. In
the band of the upper wings there are, in front,
two indented black stripes ; a similar one runs
likewise along the under wings, lengthwise of the
band. Close to the band of the superior wings,
after a narrow brown space, follows a blueish
white transverse band, consisting of five longish
spots, of which the two hind ones have an inden-
ture outwards. Besides these, there is at some
distance from the exterior edge of all the wings,
a row of small white spots, which become gradually
narrower and more obscure on the lower wings.
Of the under side, it is only to be observed that
all the dark colours of the surface are much paler,
particularly the red band of the under wings, is
almost uniform in colour with the whole wing;
there is, however, in the middle of it, a small
brownish spot. The body at the top is brown,
the bottom grey j the feelers are brown with
yellow clubs. i ,- : . ,

» • 'X. APATURA RARICK.

Ap, alts Jbrriigineis : an lids fascia abhrrviala,
posticis disco albis, anticis macula tnagna lutea ad
marginem posticum, . i y . - , t ,

From the Coral islands of Radack, in the

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380

AP1»END1X.

Northern Pacific Ocean. — Of the size of the
Ap. Bolina, The ground-colour is dark brown.
The superior wings have a short white band,
consisting of four iongish spots, and which takes
its direction from the middle of the front edge to
the exterior border ; it extends over four mem-
branes, from the second to the fourth. At a small
distance from the exterior margin there are six
other spdts, of which the upper one is very
large. A broad, crooked, brownish, yellow patch
extends from nearly the middle of the wing,
to the back edge near the back angle. The
upper half of the under wings has somewhat of a
brownish violet lustre. In the middle of the wing
there is a large Iongish patch, the under and ex-
terior edge of which is bordered with a dirty
yellow J on the under side of the wings there is the
same distribution of colour, only that the darker
colours are here paler, and more indistinct ; the
superior wings have, at the fore-edge, between the
roots and white band, three white spots encircled
with black. Besides this all the wings at the ex-
ternal edge are encircled with a double row of
Iongish grey spots. The body at the top is dark
brown, underneath spotted white ; the feelers
black, with yellow tips \ the palpi and feet whitish-
grey.

Rarick is one of the chiefs of Romanzoff's
group, who first approached us with tokens of
friendship. • ■ ^ ■ - •

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NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

XI. APATURA KRAIMOKU.

381

Ap. alisjuscis, marginibus duplici serie punctorum
alborum.

From Guahon, the most southern of the Mariana
islands. — Of the size of the^P* Bolina, of uniform
dark brown, with an olive green lustre. Close to
the external edge runs a row of small whitish-grey
dots over all the wings, of which two always stand
in one membrane. At a distance of two lines
from the edge there is a second row of larger white
spots, of which there is always one in a membrane.
On the under side, besides the marks of the upper
side, there are two white spots at the front edge of
the superior wings, near the roots. Body and feet
brown, feelers black.

Kareimoku, governor of the island of Woahoo,
one of the Sandwich islands.

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XII. IDEA ABIGAR.

/. alts albis nigro cinctis, margine punciis albis
duplici serie, anticis fascia apicali transversa alba,
medio posticisque subtus striis ferrugineis. r

From Manilla. — This species is of the size of
the Pontia Cratcegi, only the wings are narrower.
The chief colour is white, but the upper wings
are marked with so much black brown colour, that
only a triangular space, divided by a black tendon,
in two spots lying above each other, is left. There
is, besides, a broad white transverse band towards

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APPENDIX.

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the tip of the wings, to which a large cornered
point, near the exterior edge, is joined. The ex-
terior black edge is marked with a double row
of white dots, but which vanish near the tip. At
the roots of the wings there are two straight yel-
low-brown stripes ; and on the exterior edge of the
large white spot, a third crooked one. The under
wings are likewise white ; their foremost edge,
bordered by a narrower, the hinder edge, how-
ever, with a broader brown band. Near to the
border, in the band, there is a double row of white
dots, of which four are always placed in a membrane.
In the third membrane there is a hard, black,
longish mass, which indicates the Sack (^Sach) of
the relative species in this place. On the under
side, the superior wings are marked the same as on
. the upper side, only the dark brown is here more
reddish brown. The lower wings have here, in the
broad brown border, many longish light brown spots,
which encroach at the back edge with their points
upon the white ground. Scutcheon, feelers, and
legs are black ; the abdomen brown above and
yellow beneath. White dots are on the forehead,
head, the roots of the wings, above and below, and
the legs, and on the basis of the lower wings, even
on the under side ', the stripes on the thigh and
palpi white. ^'^' ■'-'>--y<-^ .»''.' :i;. ■ .• >■. '': r (.■ .i^ ..-,, ,-.■. .

Abigar, chief of a small island of Romanzoff 's
group.

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NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

383

■h'.^ii<

XIII. IDEA MANUJA.

/. alts rtifb Jerrugineis, nigro cinctis, punctis du-
pUci serie marginis, maculisque utrinque lacteisy j^oS"
ttcis subtus nigro venosis.

From Brazil. — This butterfly has great simi-
larity with the J, Eresimus, with respect to size
and marking j in the latter respect, also, with
/. Berenice, Its colour is reddish brown ; the
front and exterior edge of all the wings is bor-
dered black ; particularly broad on the lower
wings. On the same there is, as usual, a double
row of white dots, of which those of the outer row
vanish on the tip of the superior wings ; also,
towards the back angle a spot is wanting in each
row. On the front edge of the upper wings are
three ; then again three others, close to these two ;
and, lastly, along the external border, four larger
milk-white spots. In the front part of the under-
wings there are four white spots. On the under
side the wings are marked the same as on the
upper, only the double row of larger dots is here
interrupted. The lower wings have here a some-
what lighter colour ; all the veins are black, some
of them are edged with a narrow white margin, as
the middle points of the upper side are here longer,
and follow the veins for a little way. Head,
scutcheon, thorax, feelers, and palpi are black j
head, shoulders, and thorax have white spots.
The colour of the abdomen is dark brown under-
neath, with a white line lengthwise.

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384

APPENDIX.

Manuja, a person of rank in the Sandwich
iskinds, who made the voyage from Owhyee to
Woahoo, in the Rurick.

XIV. IDEA PLEXfPPUS, L.

> Var, alts posticis margine nigro supra puncth
albis dupUci serie. ? ; ;x a w - /^s^r/rv •
Of this butterfly, which is said to be also met
with in America and China, I caught a variety in
California, which has also the double row of white
dots on the black border of the lower wings, on the
upper side ; here also the double row of dots on
the disk of the upper wings towards the back angle
is not interrupted, as in Herbst's drawing. Of the
black spot of the lower wings on the second ten-
don (from the inside), mentioned by Herbst, I see
no more traces in my specimen than in Herbst's
drawing itselfl '' v : • / ■ i i /

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XV. EUPLOEA KADy.

jE. alls supra atro cceruleis : anticis macula albo
vittata punctisque marginis cyaneis ; posticis macula
Jlavescente,

From Guahon, the most southern of the Ma-
riana islands. — - This butterfly has entirely the
form, and almost the marks of the Pap, Phcenareta
(Schaller, Naturforsch, 21. St., s. I77. tab. v.)
Its superior wings are paiticularly distinguished by
the great convexity of the back edge, so that they
always cover half of the under wings in their natural

NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

385

extent. The colour of the upper wings at the top
is dark blue; in the middle, between the first
and second tendon from the back edge, is a large
heart-shaped spot, of a beautiful ultra-marine co-
lour ; the points are turned towards the roots of
the wings. In the upper part of this patch there
is a long, blueish-white transverse spot. Above the
large heart-shaped spot, there is another on the
upper edge, and on the external margin five other
azure blue dots j near the tip of the wing there
are two white dots. The lower wings have two
chief colours, which are separated from each
other by a line running from the root to the middle
of the exterior edge. The front half looks faded,
as it is of a glossy, yellowish-grey colour, which
becomes dark grey towards the middle. The back
half, on the other hand, has a cast of blue on a
dark brown colour. In the front half, there is in
the middle a large longish spot of a yellow brown,
which looks mealy, and is contiguous to the dark
brown colour. In the middle of the exterior edge
there are three other azure spots, of which the front
one is the largest. The under side of the wings
shows a dark brown colour. Quite close to the
exterior border of the superior wings there is a
row of milk-white dots ; a second, likewise milk-
white row, answers to those described on the upper
side, only those nearest to the tip of the wing are
sms^ler. Between the second and third tendon
from the back edge, there is a transverse, oval,

VOL. III. c c

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ii

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SSi>

APPENDIX.

milk-white spot in the middle. The space from
the second tendon to the exterior edge is of the
same colour as the front part of the lower wings on
the upper side ; there is here, likewise, in the mid-
dle, a similar mealy, yellowish-brown spot. There
is besides, at the upper edge of the spot last de-
scribed, a black-brown oval ring, which answers
to the white stripes in the large heart-shaped spot
on the upper side. The dark brown colour of the
under wings shines a little reddish. Quite close
to the back edge are eight white dots ; another
row, a little farther distant from the front and back
edge, consists of nine blueish dots. Body, feelers,
and legs, are dark brown. On the head, shoulders,
thorax, and roots of the wings on the under side,
there are the usual white spots.

Kadu, a native of the Carolinas, remained eight
months on board the Rurick. ..:.,,;. : v .^

. V XVI. PAPHIA BCEBERA.

:m

• P. alts glaitcescentibus supra late nigro cinctis,
atroque venosis, posticis subtus margaritaceis.

From Manilla. — Of the size of the P. Crat(egit
L. The greatest part of the wings on the upper
side is pale sea-green. The sector edge of the supe-
rior wings is bordered with a black band, one line
and a half broad j the exterior edge of the same wing
with one three lines broad ; and, lastly, the external
edge of the lower wings with one of a black
brown colour four lines broad. All the tendons

X J

i ..KiV

NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

S87

are broad, and of a black colour. The dark edge
of the under wings is glossy at the sides, but faint
at the back angle. On the under side, the supe-
rior wings have a greenish colour like mother-of-
pearl, the middle tendons are bordered with dark
brown, but the tip and exterior margin of the
wing is grey. The lower wings are covered here
and there with a lustre resembling mother-of-pearl ;
the tendons and several places of the external edge
are of a very pale grey brown colour. The colour
of the upper part of the body is properly black,
but covered with sea-green scales and hair ; be-
neath, on the contrary, of a white colour. Feelers
black ; eyes brown j feet white.

XVII. NEPTIS ILLIGERA.

N. alis atris : anticis stria longitudinali maculaque
rotunda^ posticisque fascia transversa albis.

From Manilla. — Equal to the N, Melicerta and
Agathe in size, and similar in the marks. The
colour of the wings is black brown ; a white grey-
ish stripe extends from the root of the superior
wings to about the middle of them j between the
internal end and the back angle of the wings is a
large roundish white spot ; three distinguished but
very small white dots lie in a row between the large
patch and the tip of the wing. Before and behind
these three there are two other white dots. On the
exterior edge run two very indistinct light brown
lines, of which the interior one is abbreviated.

c c 2

888

APPENDIX.

Quite close to the external edge in the middle, a
longish white spot is distinguishable, which joins
the two white transverse bands of the lower wings,
when the upper ones are naturally spread out.
This band occupies the middle of the wing, and
extends from the internal almost to the sector
edge ; a light brown line surrounds the exterior
edge at some distance from it. There is more
white on the under side ; the longitudinal stripe
of the upper wings has become broader, and there
is another narrow stripe also lengthwise above it.
The exterior edge is almost surrounded with a
treble row of lines, but which are frequently inter-
rupted. On the lower wings there is, above the
broad band, a narrow one of equal length, a little
crooked. The exterior edge is adorned with a
treble white border, of which the middle line is the
broadest. The body, at the top, is of a black-brown
colour in common with the feelers ; at tlie bottom
it is white, as also the palpi and thighs ; the other
part of the legs is brown. There is besides, on
the front edge of the back, a spot in the form of a
horse-shoe, sparkling with green and red gold
colours.

On comparing this species with the Melicerta,
it will easily be seen that the present is distin-
guished by the round spot and narrow streak of
the superior wings, and by wanting the white
margin of the lower wings on the upper side.i-?^^

NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

389

::!ft;

m>

XVIII. ACR^A CLAUDINA.

Act, alisjlavis, supra extus nigro cinctis, anticiS'
que fascia nigra transversa anteapicali, subtus fusco
irroratis.

From Brazil. — The colour of the wings on the
npper side is yellow-ochre. The size is somewhat
smaller than the following, Ac. Sirena ; the back
angle of the present species is also very cornered,
by which it deviates from the rest of this genus.
A broad part of the tip and exterior edge of the
superior wings is black, as also a narrow band,
which is however very broad in front, extending
from the middle of the front border, towards the
back anglci to- the external edge. The middle of
this transverse band unites by an oblique black
line with the black tip of the wing. Between the
roots of the wings and the transverse band', there
are, at the front edge, four small scalloped trans-
verse streaks, which have a resemblance with those
of the species Argynnisy F. On the lower wings
there is a black exterior edge, which is thickened
towards the back angle, by two fine black scalloped
streaks, and some black scalloped stripes at the
root. On the under side the chief colour is light
yellow. The transverse band of the superior wings
is here brown and indistinct. Two fine scalloped
brown lines surround the exterior edge of all the
wings ; similar lines are seen at the root of the
superior ones, and the front half of the lower

c c 3

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!■♦•

,i'j

390

APPENDIX.

wings, in transverse lines ; and on the latter, ranged
in single lines. There is also in the middle of the
lower wings a larger, and a row of smaller brown
dots bordering on the scalloped line of the edge.
Body and feelers at the top dark brown ; beneath,
both white ; the clubs of the feelers, and the legs
light brown.

XIX. MECHANITIS MERIANA.

M. alls atris : macula baseos (posHcorum anticd)
fasciaque externa Juhis, supra media, subtus undU
que albo pvnctatis.

From Brazil (Rio Janeiro). — The size and
form coincide with the M. Euterpe, to which it is
very similar j but according to a mere description,
it is difficult to distinguish it from the Susannah.
The chief colour of the wings is black j on the
superior wings you first observe a triangular reddish
yellow spot, which extends from the root to the
middle of the wing, is here rounded off, and
leaves behind a narrow black rim on the edge of
the upper and lower wings. Between the tip of
the wing and the large patch runs a broad scalloped
reddish-yellow transverse band, on the inner side
of which deep indentures are observed. It comes
very close to the sector edge, but it keeps very
distant from the exterior. Between the two spots
there are four scattered white dots. From the
root of the lower wings to the middle of them, a
longish quadrangular reddish-yellow spot extends

NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

391

close to the front edge, which has two indentures
towards the exterior edge. There is a broad
scalloped transverse band of the same colour, a line
and a half from the external margin, which reaches
neither the front nor the back edge ; inwards it
has indentures, outwards projecting scallops. On
the interior border of the wing between the root
and band there are five white points, of which four
form a rowj other indistinct ones are between
the two patches. On the under side we must
observe the greatest number and distinctness of
the white dots^ in the middle, and a row of dots
on the edge of all the wings. Besides these, the
reddish spot at the root of the lower wings is here
divided into a small spot near to the root, and a
larger one in the shape of a cross. Of the parts
of the body I can only observe of the back, breast,
and legs, that they have w hite dots j the rest is
wanting in my specimen..

m

XX. PONTIA HENNINGIA.

P,aUs atris: anticis fascia lata transversa alba, poS'
ticis supra medio maculisque subtus lateralibus suU
phureis, basique coccineis.

From Manilla. — It is a little smaller than
Herbst's drawing of Pasithoe, with which it has
great similarity. From the outer edge of the upper
wings, not far from the root, begins a white band
three lines broad, and extends towards the back
angle, which it does not however reach. The root

c c 4

!)

'*■

392

APPENDIX.

of the wings is made grey by single white scales ;
without the band, and near it, is a white spot.
Towards the exterior edge and tip are several in-
distinct grey spots. The under wings, quite at
the root, are blackish-grey, then a little white-greyj
and after this follows the sulphur colour, which is
half-enclosed by a black band, which occupies the
greater part of the front, and the whole exterior
edge ; the middle tendons are also black. On the
under side, the grey spots on the tip of the superior
wings are transformed into five white ones. In the
lower wings, besides the yellow colour, there are
three longish spots at the exterior edge, and a
round one in the middle. The root of the wings
is here scarlet. The back part of the body white,
the other parts black grey.

XXI. PONTIA OLGA.

p. alls anticis albis, vents margineque nigris, sub-
tus apicejlavo maculatis, posticis aurantiacis, margine

mgrts.

From Manilla. — This species is of the size of the
P. Rapcp, and has the greatest similarity with Judith.
The upper wings are white ; the last end of the
sector edge, the whole exterior edge, and the
front tendons, are black. The under wings have
a gold yellow colour ; the front and external edge
are bordered with black. On the under side the
black colour of the upper side has become brown ;
the two midcUe tendons are coloured broader, and

NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

393

on the tip there are three light yellow spots. The
lower wings are here of a sulphur colour ; only the
exterior edge is brown like the three foremost ten-
dons. Feelers, blackish brown, scarcely visible on
the inner side, with white dots half way. Back
brown, with white hair ; thorax white ; abdomen at
the top yellow ; underneath white ; feet brown.

P. Judithf F. is distinguished by the red spotted
edge of the lower wings, and by the want of the
three yellow spots on the under side of the tip of
the upper wings.

, '' ,, XXII. PONTIA MERCEDIS.

P. alts albis, macula antica triangulisque duplici
serie marginis nigris, posticis subtus Jlavis, albo
venosisy anticejulvo cinctes.

From Talcaguano in Chili. — Nearly as large
as the male of P. Brassicce, The colour of the
wings on the upper side is white, and a very strong
lustre of mother-of-pearl at the root. A long
quadrangular spot extends from the middle of the
sector edge of the superior wings, as far as the third
of the breadth of the wing. About three lines
from the external edge, there is a row of triangular
spots, with their points turned to the exterior edge,
the corners of which, at the basis, are hooked. The
one nearest to the back edge is only a longish spot.
All these spots are in the membranes, between the
tendons. From the exterior edge itself, there
begin club-formed spots, but which lie on the ten-

.1

I

ji

w

Htl.

^ •

394

APPENDIX.

dons with their basis, and run ahnost to the other
row. On the lower wings there is likewise this
double row of spots, but they are fainter, and those
on the edge divided by the white tendon. The
upper wings are also white underneath, but a broad
space of the tip is of a light yellow colour. The
large spot is here, like the double row of the smaller
ones, much fainter, and does not extend to the
sector edge. The lower wings are here light yellow ;
the front edge of a narrow gold yellow ; the white
tendons encompassed with a narrow blackish line.
The double row of triangular spots is nearly the
same as on the upper side ; in the middle of the
wings there is a uniform white spot. The body at
the top is blackish, underneath (as also the legs)
white. The feelers black, with white annuli.

XXIII. COLIAS ANDREA.

C alts albis margine antico extenioque late fiigro
cinctiSf posticis subtus sulphureis.

From Manilla. — Of the size of the C. Rhamniy
and has much resemblance to the Fhryne, and the
female of the Drusilla (Herbst Tab.) ; wings
white above ; the broad sector and vandyked exte-
rior edge of the superior wings is of a blackish
brown ; the tip however remains white, and has
only black tendons. The exterior edge of the
lower wings is broad, and blackish brown. Un-
derneath the upper wings are also white, but the
tip has a broad brown edge, and incloses a longish

1.5

NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

395

white patch. The colour of the lower wings un-
derneath is of a'sulphur yellow ; the exterior edge,
still broader here, is brown. Body blackish, cover-
ed with white scales and hair, feelers blackish-
brown, legs and feet yellow-brown.

XXIV. HIPPARCHIA STELLERA.

H, alts supra Jiescis, subtus albicantibus, Jasciis
duabm communibus Jiescis, anticis, ocello magno
utrinque bipupillato, posticis supra duabus subtus sex.

From Manilla — This species is exactly of the
size of the H, Lisander (Herbst, tab. 195.
fig. 4, 5.) with which and with Baldus, F. it has
great resemblance. The colour of the wings at
the top is brown, with a faint lustre of olive-green ;
the superior ones have on the usual place a large
black eye, with a yellow iris and two small steel-
coloured pupils. The lower wings have in the
middle of the exterior edge, two eyes, half as
large, and with only a single pupil. The exterior
edge of both wings is darker. Beneath, the
colour of the wings is whitish ; the external border,
however, as well as two narrow transverse stripes,
innumerable small streaks, the rings round the
yellow iris, and the front edge of the superior wings,
are brown. The body brown, beneath whitish ;
feelers black with white rings; at the end brownish
red. This butterfly has besides two longish trans-
parent bladders at the roots of the superior wings,
particularly beneath, which are extended tracheae
and facilitate its flight.

U i

■M

39(y

APPENDIX.

•-r,^/

XXV. LYCiENA SCH-EFFERA.

L, alts nigris, anticis utrinque medio albis ; owi-
nibus suhtus hast argenteo maculatis, posticis Jasciis
duahus alibis : postica atro maculata^ . ' y ^

From Manilla. — About the size of the i. Damis,
and JEsopuSf with which this kind in some measure
coincides in form and marks. At the top the wings
are blackish brown, and shine in a certain light,
like verdigris ; the upper wings have here a longislv
white spot in the middle, which nms pointed to-
wards the root ; beneath, this patch extends to the
back edge. There is on the root or near the sector
edge, a broad short stripe of a silvery-green colour.-
Above, the inferior wings are uniform blackish-
brown ; beneath, they have on the basis one large
and two small silver-green spots. There are, then,
two broad white bands lying above each other, of
which the hindermost bears eight longish black
spots in a row. The brown colour is lighter on
the under side. The upper part of the body, as
well as the white annulated feelers, has a blackish-
brown colour ; the body beneath^ and the feet, are
white.

XXVI. LYC^NA CRAMERA.

L, alis supra brunneis, subtus griseis, Jascia com'
muni marginaU utrinque Julva, subtus punctis nigris,
aluo ctnctts* • i ,< ^nt.'^ = * ,\! '^ > . > «. !,■ ■■■'..•' ri-» ■^i* •>■♦''■

From Teneriffe. — Size and form of the L^

NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

397

Scarm, The colour of the wings on the upper side
is dark brown, with a green silky gloss. Scarcely
half a line from the exterior edge runs a yellowish
red, somewhat scalloped, band across both wings,
and both sides, more than half a line broad. Be-
neath, the common colour of the wings is grey.
The superior wings, near the red band, have
eight large black spots, standing near each other,
which are bordered with white rings ; only one of
these spots stands by itself; the others form almost
a row. On the lower wings, towards the bottom of
each, there are twelve very small black dots bor-
dered with white, in three transverse lines; the
top one has four, the middle three, and the
back one five dots. The edge beyond the red
band is white on the lower side, with a row of
black dots. Feelers with white rings, and body
black above, and underneath grey.

The species described is probably a female ; the
male may look very different.

' - , XXVII. CASTNIA PALLASIA.

C. alts anticis Jusco virentibus, griseo fasciatis,
posticis atriSf fascia baseos punctisqtie marginis albis,
Jhscia media maculari rubra.
. From Brazil. — It has great resemblance, with
respect to size and marks, with C. Licus. The
ground colour of the superior wings is dark olive-
green ; on it are observed two spots, and a scal-
loped band lengthwise, of a brownish-grey colour.

ii

') \

i \ i' '■

j;:

398

APPENDIX.

The smallest triangular spot lies on the sector edge
over the middle of it ; the second, three times as
large, on the back edge, near the back angle ; the
band between both extends from the back edge,
nearer the root, towards the point, and from its
upper half spreads out a broad branch towards the
exterior edge. The lower wings on the basis are
brownish- violet ; then follows, towards the middle,
a broad white transverse band, crossed by brown
tendons. The ground-colour of the rest of the
back part of the wing is black. On this is a
transverse band, consisting of eight vermilion
spots, of which those nearest the front edge are the
smallest. Exactly on the outer edge are five
larger, and two very small white dots. On the
under side of the upper wings the ground-colour is
of a glossy blue ; the band which runs into the
great spot and the little spot are here yellowish-
white ; at the exterior edge, there is a row of seven
square whitish-grey spots. At the root of the
wings, on the fore-edge, there is a red stripe. The
marking of the lower wings on the under side is
only so far distinguished from the upper side that
the band and spots are here larger and more cor-
nered. The body is brown with a greenish lustre
at the top ; the lastannulus of the body yellowish-
red J feelers black ; legs with red stripes. • f

» '

! :' !

XXVIII. SPHINX PUNGENS.

Sph, alts anticis griseis, nigro Jasciatis, annulo

NEW FOREIGN BUTTERFLIES.

399

medio striisque duabus longitudinalibus atris, posticis
bast rufis, nigro trifasciatis, abdomine maculis later'
alibus rufis atrisqtie altemis.

Sphinx Convolvuli var. Drury Ins. 1. tab. xxv.
fig. 4. — From Port Jackson, in New Holland. —
This species, connected also with Sph, Convolvuli
of Fabrizius, has properly more resemblance with
Sph, Ligustri than with the former. The principal
colour of the upper wings is whitish-grey on a
brown gi'ound, with many scalloped blackish-brown
transverse bands, of which one in the middle is
the largest and darkest. Distinguished are a small
ring and two short stripes in the middle, and an-
other stripe, with scalloped ends, at the tip of the
wing. The lower wings are red at the root, to-
wards the middle pale pink, the deep exterior
border is grey. Three black bands are particu-
larly distinguished : one almost annular, inclosing
the red colour at the root, a middle narrower scal-
loped one at the interior edge, and a third broad
band on the grey edge. The superior wings have
beneath, a brownish-grey colour; two to three
lines from the exterior edge runs a narrow wavy
blackish-brown transverse line. The lower wings
are here light grey, which becomes always whiter
towards the inner edge. A black band, particu-
larly broad at the inner edge, runs over the mid-
dle of the wing ; behind it follows a white band ;
and, lastly, the wing is bordered by a greyish-brown
broad edge. The body is grey above and at the

!'■ I

h\

V!

400

APPENDIX.

m i'^

. i; 1 fit

sides ; on the back on each side near to the roots
of the wings runs a broad black stripe, which, at
the beginning of the abdomen, first runs towards
the middle, but suddenly turns across to the side.
On each side of the abdomen are five square rose-
coloured spots, which become smaller towards the
end of the body, and at last indistinct. Between
the two upper spots there is a short black stripe,
between the rest a broad square black spot. Be-
neath, the middle of the body is white ; on the
belly are three black dots lengthwise j the three
last tracheae on each side are black. The short
feelers are in front dark brown, behind white, legs
grey.

Sph, ConvolvuH exceeds this species in size ; it
wants the small annulus and the longitudinal
stripes of the upper wings ; its under wings are
grey, &c. ■ :

The present species might much easier be taken
for Sph, Cingulata^ F., which may be distinguished
by the white point of the upper wings and the five
black spots on the belly. - .^^ '

Our species is said to sting very severely with
its proboscis.

XXIX. ZEUZERA VIRIDICANS.

Z, alisjlavis, maculis duabus magnis puncHsque
viridibus, * . .. „ . . . . .

From Manilla. — Exactly of the size and form
of the Hepialus humtdi, F. The ground-colour of

NEW FOREJON BUTTERFLIES.

iOl

the wings is light yellow, which is covered with
many large and small green satiny spots. Of this
colour are the roots of the upper wings, then a
large round spot, and then follows a long patch ;
besides this, there are ten smaller spots. On the
lower wings there is a transverse band at the ex-
terior edge, consisting of one- internal round and
one large long spot ; at the front edge and in the
middle some smaller spots. The underside of the
wings is not at all different from the upper side.
We have still to notice a brown curved bristle
about four lines long on the basis of the lower
wings. The black feelers are broadly fringed up
to the middle, then narrow in the form of a saw.
The hair on the shoulders, head, and thorax
brown ; the rest is rubbed off in my specimen.

IS

XXX. NOCTUA BAMBUCINA.

N, alls atris, anticis chalibeo strigosis, apice annu-
loque collarif posticis margtne lato extemo anoque
aurantiacis.

From Manilla, on the bamboo trees. — It is of
the size of the N, Libatrix, The upper wings
are dark-brown near to the sector edge, and at the
back edge is a long stripe of a steel blue colour ; of
the same colour two points and one hook in the
middle ; and lastly, at some distance from the ex-
terior edge, eight short streaks above each other,
which also form a transverse band. The tip of
the upper wings, the broad exterior margin of the

VOL. III. D D

:i

Mi

402

APPENDIX. (

under wings, an equally broad part of the end of
the body, and lastly, a collar, which extends over
the thorax in a conical form, are all of a reddish
yellow colour. The other part of the lower wings
and the upper part of the body is a blackish violet
blue. Underneath, the marks of the wings are
nearly the same ; the steel-blue streaks are want-
ing in the upper wings ; the wings themselves how-
ever, have a bluish lustre in the middle. All the
tendons are lighter below, than the ground colour.
The black thread-like feelers (not at all jagged)
are pointed at the end, and before the end there
is one place white. The last limbs of the large
black feelers naked, cylindrical j feet blackish
grey.

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413

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414

APPENDIX.

:

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Longitude.

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31.

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04 04 04

AREOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS.

415

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416

APPENDIX.

•

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VOL. in.

E E

418

APPENDIX.

m

TABLE

OF COMPARISON OP THE SPECIFIC CnAVITY OF THE SEA

WATER, &c. — continued

4

3

3

IN THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE.

1

65
60
55
50
45
40
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0

Specific

Weight of

the Sea

Water.

Time.
1816.

Mar.
April

May

'Si

k

Specific

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Water.

Time.

Specific

Weight of

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Water.

Time.

ft, ^

£ 3

Si c

343
345

1.0285
1.0294
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1.0283
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113
125
140
157
164

1.0280
1.0298
1.0298
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1.0292
1.0291
(1.0261)

1818.

Mar.
Feb.

335
316
302
282
269
261
254

1.0287
1.0299

1818.
April

APPENDIX.

419

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+ + + +

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^ coi-i'j" •-<eomOT<-< «o(?»

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ooeo«««coeo««oo«eoco«eoMO«
+ + + + + + +

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^|| I I I I I I I I I I i I I I i I I l|l i I

U5 y5 1^ oc c. d -J 01 c". "J" >r <i I- o| » c5 "^ -^ o5 (T. ^

_ i-, — -< I-, yt 01 ^ -M ri f?i ?i 01 y o> w er;

i: E 1'

01 c: >»•

1 my

124,

APPENDIX-

1

k ■ ■

*

Transpa-
rency of the
Water in
Fathoms.

'paAiidsqo iOj<i

Ship's

Longitude.

O ' l>

+ 24 9 56W
21 23 CO
20 SO 21
90 24 47
19 42 49
17 56 51
15 S3 6
13 45 48
10 50 54

Latitude.

55

* c?: »c « w w ♦

+

Temper-
ature of
the Air.

.s s

II

to »o

• ••••_•••

1 ii

•<r "* TjS ^ Tj! ©5 « ©s'
>oiou:>ou)>oto>o

i'emperatu

on the
Surface.

IT

1

II 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

>4 <D i-i 00 0^ d -- &i !?:

; 1

fV

.rv-''^^

-'-i'25 '- ^

^^

»'ii;.#*;» .

. :.''*••■ s.*'.;

REMARKS

1

ON THE PRECEDING OBSERVATIONS ON THE

SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF THE SEA WATEK

IN DIFFERENT LATITUDES,
AKD

ON THE TEMPERATURE OF THE OCEAN AT

DIFFERENT DEPTHS. '

BY J. C. HORNER.

» -. ■ t

i»

't

rn

1 HE observations on the specific gravity of the
sea water have been aheady drawn up in an instruc-
tive table (page 403.) by the able naturalist of the
expedition, and arranged according to the degrees
of latitude. This table evidently shows the fact,
which is also proved by the experiments on Kru-
senstern's voyage, that the sea on the surface, be-
tween the tropics, is specifically heavier, that it
contains more salt, than in higher latitudes. If we
take together the statements from 25th degree
south, as far as 25th degree north latitude ; and, in
the same manner, from 50° to (j5° degree of north
latitude, the mean of tiie first is, 1. 0*288, that of
the latter 1.0245, which gives tlie difference of
0.0013 or 4 But this by no means proves an

''!i

/

fl.

42()

APPENDIX.

absolute inequality in the saltness of the water in
general. To give a decided opinion on it, the
sea water must be fetched up from considerable
depths, and weighed. Probably the greater salt-
ness arises from the rapid decrease of the fresh
water, in consequence of evaporation. From the
well known slowness of the transition of chemical
elements in undisturbed compounds, this decrease
is but slowly repaired j and as the upper layers are
also the warmer, they may, notwithstanding their
greater specific density, in consequence of their
extent, be maintained by the warmth swimming
above the lower cooler layers, by which a principal
agent of commixture, the difference of weight,
is rendered of no effect. This slowness of change,
and the condensation of the saline solution at the
surface, which results from it, has the advantage,
that the acceleration of the evaporation sets
bounds to itself, because, with the increasing con-
densation, the attraction of the salt to the parts
of the water is greater, and, consequently the
diminution of the latter less. Without this arrange-
ment, the tropical seas would perhaps be covered
like the frozen seas c^ the north, with constant
fogs. Subsequent experiments will show how far
our explanation of this inequality is correct ; of
which we have now more hopes, as convenient
accurate apparatus have been discovered to fetch
up water from any depth, at pleasure, and un-
mixed.

SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF SEA WATER.

4^

* The considerable number of observations (there
are one hundred and sixteen of tliem) on the tem-
perature of the sea below the surface, their extent
over waters of the ocean remote from each other, and
probably, also, their accuracy, give tbem a decided
claim to the attention of the natural philosopher j
and the perseverance with which tl>ey were con-
tinued, under various circumstances, dees honour
as well to the Naturalist of the Expedition, as to
the commander, who not jnly in calms, but in
some periods, almost daily, afforded the necessary
assistance. They were ail made with the Six-ther-
mometer *, which is a good assurance of their ac-
curacy. It is certainly remarkable, that an instru-
ment so simple, so convenient in the use, so
certain in the results, and which has been long
known, is not more frequently used for this pur-
pose J so that in the latest scientific voyages,
much more uncertain thermometers have been
used, to which only the deep sea clamm of Captain
Ross forms an exception.

Our observations fall under two heads : measure-
ments of the temperature in different depths, in
the same places of the oceaUj and in statements
of the warmth in the usual soundings, from sixty
to eigiity fathoms, in different places.

The most complete observations on the changes

'.f

* Tliis instrument was divided, after the English manner, in
degrees ot* Fahrenheit : I have reduced the result to degrees
of Reaumur.

/n

4^28

APPENDIX.

of the temperature, in increasing depths, are, in the
South Sea, of the 13th and 14th of September,
1817, in 36° north latitude, and 148° west longi-
tude. Besides confirming the general law, that
the cold increases with the depth, they also afford
the following results.

1. The upper parts of the water show a particu-
lar warmth, as the temperature, in the first eight fa-
thoms* diminished only 0°, 4 R., but from that depth
to twenty-five fathoms, full 6° R. From twenty-five
fathoms to a hundred fathoms' depth, the decrease
of warmth is considerably less, since, in the next
twenty-five fathoms, it is only 1°, 7 Rm and in the
next fifty fathoms, only 1°, 5 R. ; a decrease, which
amounts to only the tenth part of the preceding.
It is still slower between a hundred and three hun-
dred fathoms.

2. If we compare these observations with those
of the 6th of June, 1816, in 37° north, and in
199° west longitude, consequently, in the same
parallel of latitude, the influence of the season is
))articularly observable in the temperature, on the
surface, which in June is 13° R., in September
18° R. It, however, does not go much deeper than
from twenty-five to fifly fathoms; and at a hun-
dred fathoms it is already within the limits of the
accuracy of such observations ; for we have, i -

r 6th June, 9°, 4 R.

For 100 fathoms J 13th September, 9, 4 —

l 14th September, 8, 6 —

SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF SEA WATER.

429

R.

'^ 3. A certain coincidence with these results, only
on a greater scale, is shown by the experiments of
the 15th of Nov. 1817, in 9° north latitude, and
205° west longitude, in which the temperature
decreases from the surface to about sixty or
seventy fathoms, rapidly and uniformly, from
24% 7 R. to 8% 8 R. From 69 to 101 fathoms, this
rapid decrease, instead of proceeding, is suddenly
reduced to the small amount of 0°, 9 R. But if
we compare these observations with those imme-
diately preceding and succeeding them, of the
13th, 14th, and 17th of November, we shall hesi-
tate to draw from them decisive conclusions.

The observations of 13th April, 181 f), in 15°
south, and 130° west, follow a quite different course
from those in September, 181 7> in 2G° north. The
decrease of warmth from the surface, to as far as
a hundred fathoms* depth, is much more incon-
siderable, being here only 3°, 6, there nearly treble,
namely, 9°, 4 Reaum. It becomes more consider-
able between a hundred and two hundred fathoms,
namely, 8°, 8 R. Remarkable as this inequality is,
it yet seems impossible to ascribe it to an error in
the observation, such as too soon drawing up the
thermometer j for, on the one hand, the regular
course of the experiments of the 14th Septem-
ber, 1817, and their coincidence with those of
the 13th, at the depths of 0, 25, and 100 fa-
thoms, does not allow us to suppose any thing of
the kind ; on the other side, the observations of

5

II

..

i3()

APPENDIX.

1.3th April, 1816, find their confirmation in the
preceding ones of the 7th of April, in 18'' south,
which give a difference of 0 to 125 fathoms of
4°, 8 R., that is, from 0 to 100 fathoms ; likewise
3°, 8 R. The same observations tlien give for the
second hundred of the depth in fathoms, Hkewise
about 8^ Reaumur.

It is not to be discovered, from the observations,
whence this diifi^rence in the progressive decrease
of the warmth arises. It cannot well be ascribed
to the influence of the seasons, at least in latitude
35° north : the observations of June and September,
show an agreement with each other. The reason
perhaps is, that the perpendicular rays of the sun
penetrate the water, between the tropics, to a
greater depth than in latitudes where the sun
never appears in the zenith. The place of constant
temperature, independent of the seasons, must, pro-
bably, lie much deeper between the tropics than
beyond them.

5, The observations of the 22d of September,
1817, in 28° north latitude, and in 152'' west lon-
gitude, seem to present a much more uniform
course, particularly if we set aside the statement
in twenty-five fathoms' depth, which does not
appear to agree with the higher or lower observ-
ations. We have from them a decrease of heat, of
3°, 5 R. for the first fifty fathoms ; 3°, 0 R. for the
second fifty fathoms, and 4° 3 R., from a hundred
to two hundred.

17

SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF SEA WATER.

431

•»» The collective observations on tlie progress of
the decrease of heat were made in the South Sea.
From the Atlantic Ocean we received only a
few insulated statements, for depths of a hundred
to two hundred fathoms. The experiments in
both oceans are arranged in the following table.

Warmth of the Sea Water at different Depths, arranged
according to the Geographical Latitudes in degrees of
Reaumur's Thermometer.

Month.

8

Si

Si

sl

£

1

i
2

4

2

o

April

21.0

_

17.2

9.9

...

18 S.

125W.

__

21.4

— .

17.8

10.8

_

15

134

May

22.6

_

13.5

—

w-

1 N.

177

Nov.

24.5

—

10.7

—

—

9

204

/In the South
\Sea.

__

23.0

14M

—

—

—

12

210

Dec.

22.1

12.8

—

—

—

16

240

__

21.7

16.6

—

—

—

18

224

Sept.

20.1

—

13.0

8.8

—

28

152

June

18.7

—

13.5

—

9.4

29

199

Sept.

18.0

~

9.3

7,0

5.4
(4.8)*

36

147

f* In 400 Fa-
\ thorns.

June

13.0

_

9.3

—

5.0

37

199

Jan.

10.4

_

3.2

—

44 S.

57

March

17.3

—

12.3

—

—

34

27

fin the At-
\lantic Ocean.

April

15.8

12.8

—

7.9

—

31

15

Oct.

18.9

— .

10.6

_

—

30 N.

15

^^

16.4

— ~

11.0

" ' ■

39

13

The temperatures in the usual soundings from
70 to 80 fathoms, appear, on account of their con-
siderable number, from which mean numbers may

II

432

APPENDIX.

be deduced, the best calculated to supply funda-
mental data. Yet eome singular results appear in
them. Among these is ths statement in the South
Sea, that in 18° N. latitude, and 76 fathoms* depth,
in December, the water was 2^° R. warmer than
in 11° N. latitude, and 70 fathoms* depth, in No-
vember. Perhaps the local places of observation
have had here some influence. The observation in
11** latitude Hes in the west of the Mariana islands,
and in the north of the Phihppines, consequently
sheltered against the warmer currents from tlie
south, by a kind of wall, and open only to the
north, while on the other hand, the place, in 18"
latitude, lies more in the open sea. The temper-
ature, found at a depth of 90 fathoms, in the Chi-
nese Sea, to the west of Lu9on, is remarkably cold ;
perhaps in consequence of the north-east currents
prevailing in December.

Almost daily observations on the temperature
were made in the Atlantic Ocean, from the 20th
of April to the 13th of June, 1818, mostly at a
depth of 70 fathoms. In order to balance the
possible errors of the observations which may arise
from the difference in the time that the ther-
mometer was under water, I have added several
together, and noted the mean number. They are
in the following table. The figures in parentheses
show the number of observations the mean of
which is given.

SPECIFIC GRAVITY 01' SEA VVATEH. 433

»

•■• •

TeiniKTature of

the Water

a in

ii

it

Observation.

on the Ihelow tlie

Latitude.

Longitude.

Surface.

Surface.

Mm

57

Aptil 20—26.

(5)

18.6

13.0

0 '

17 15 S.

0 f

3 20 W.

— 27-30.

(4)

20.8

13.5

66

10 24

12 2

— 30 — May 4.

(5)

22. 1

11.8

67

5 12

17 5

May 3-10.

(«)

22.7

11.4

74

0 43 N.

20 28

— 10-16.

(7)

22.6

11.4

75

4 51

24 38

— 15-1 9.

(5)

21.2

11.5

67

9 34

29 38

— 20-24.

(5)

20.3

16.1

71

19 30

35 7

— 25-30.

(6)

18.3

14.8

71

31 0

3G .30

— 31 —June 6.

(5)

15.1

12.3

68

-10 30 '

29 40

June 7 — 13.

(7)

13.2

9.6

7"

48 9 '
1

17 \b

t

m

This table shows a similar anomaly ro t'lrU
which we noticed in the South Sea. 1 hat is, thv5
proportionately low temperature ne;iv' the eojiiitor,
from 5° S. to 10" N. Perhaps the greater heat iie-
tween 20° and 30" of southern latitude, might be i
remnant of the southern summer. 3<.:t the cot?..
siderable increase of temperature in the ,?Jone, be-
tween 15° and 30" north latitude, is still mjre
remarkable. For though, towards the end of M :> ,
the sun was near the zenith of those parts, yet this
influence, which could be only commencing here,
must have shown itself in the waters near Ihe
equator, which the sun had just traversed at tlie
time of those observations (in April), which was
by no means the case. The tem], e.ratures at the
surface indicate indeed this «nf?.i:ence of the sun,
being the highest at the eqi:ator (22^" li.), while

VOL. III. F F

134

/ APPENDIX.

■;i i'

the southern half of the tropical seas had already
assumed an autumnal temperature, since we ob-
serve hei*e, in 17" S., the same warmth (18J° R.)
as in 30° N.

, The difference of the seasons, of the places, and
of the Qv )ths in which these observations were made,
allow us neither an accurate comparison of them
among each other, nor with the small number of
facts collected by other observers so as to enable
us to deduce general and definite rules. Desirable
as it would be that these examinations of the tem-
perature of the air should be made in certain
parallels, for example, from 10** to 10" degrees,
circumstances cannot always be commanded,
though the excellent series of daily observations
which the preceding table contains, show what
may be done without waiting for calms. But the
observers might at least agree to make all their
experiments at the same depths, namely, at ^, 50,
100, 200 fathoms, in which the frequent deviation
of the plumb-line from the perpendicular direction
must be taken into account. Frequent repetitions
of the observations, at every opportunity, is the
more advisable, because, in unexpected and ano-
malous results, it is the only means of guaran-
teeing their accuracy ; and we would particularly
recommend attention to a sufficient duration of the
experiment, and to frequent comparison of the
tliermometrograph with an accurate thermometer,
at different temperatures. Lastly, the more detailed

19

SPECIFIC GKAVITY OF SEA WATER.

■136

experiments on the progressive decrease of heat
at small intervals, if they are made in distant
latitudes, different temperatures, and seasons, are a
valuable acquisition to the doctrine of heat in
general, and in particular to the natural philosophy
of our globe.

.......p'..

'> :.-':'■';;

V

I «

■^(»««yt\iv-., f,

■. M'

'1 r :i* ; i 'J »■

t '

I

* .■' *

*■ wi- '

'^1

Led

: i . . . . ;f f:>.: n,

•I'll

< *■ I' . -i '•

I !• 'i

i 1

1

4.'?r)

»M1

POSTSCRIPT.

rfi

1 HE author of the "Remarks and Opinions," being
at a distance from the commander and narrator of
tlie expedition, was unable to compare and correct
his statements or decisions by those of his learned
coadjutors. He could not even correct his ortho-
graphy of foreign names and words to make it agree
with that observed in the journal of the voyage,
as he did not see the proof-sheets of the work.
With respect to written languages, he has followed
the authority of native authors ; and with respect
to the unwritten ones, principles of his own, of
which he has given an account in his note to the
vocabulary.

Many of these papers, in the interval between
their origin and their publication, in the progress
of time and knowledge, are already superseded by
later information. The author wished to have
cancelled them. South America has been brought
nearer to us. Important works and constant in-
tercourse have opened Brazil to us. Chili is no
longer the country we sawj we present a picture
of the past; i'ree trade now exports the copper

POSTSCRIPT.

437

which the first defenders of independence were
obliged to use for cannon balls.

Later discoveries have brought the question
which we discussed respecting the polar regions
nearer to a decision, and advanced the point of view
from which it is to be contiJiriolated. Lieutenant
Parry has penetrated from x^ancaster Sound be-
tween islands and masses of land intei'sected by
channels, as far as the 115° of west longitude (an
extent of 35°,) only 20° this side of the meridian
of Mackenzie River. We are inclined to imagine
that similar islands and masses of land occupy a
great part of the polar regions between Greenland
and New Siberia, and particularly in the north of
Beering*s Straits, (Burney.)

On the other hand, the discovery of New South
Shetland, by William Smith, in 1819, which we
cannot help fancying is united with Sandwich
land, has revived the belief of a southern continent,
to which Cook himself was attached, even after
his second voyage. This coast, bordering on one
of the most frequented seas, and several hundreds
of ships, on account of the westerly storms on the
west passage, are obliged to approach it within a
few degrees ; we are astonished at the lateness of
the discovery.

Lastly, W. Scoresby (An Account of the Arctic
Regions. Edinburgh, 1820,) has given us a work on
the North Polar Regions, the solid reasoning of
wliich throw? our hasty sketch into the shade.

F F J

•:,^'

! 1 as.

I'i

I '.

438

APPENDIX.

These essays appear unchanged. And the author,
removed from the place of publication, is not able
to remedy the defects of which he is sensible. He
will only add a few corrections and remarks.

D. Adelbekt Von Chamisso.

In Marchj 1821.

" -.r •'.

* »

r ».»

■' i

■ ^ "'\

•

■ '-'^^V,'^

-It:;." . .7

'v-vl- ^■

: ," ••-■..!!

■1 ,.'.■.,

■\' ..^.l.ii

439

" » •' ■' * .. >

- . 4 i i

CORRECTIONS AND REMARKS.

• '--•> ^ VIEW OF THE GREAT OCEAN, &C.

Tag akse Literature,

K. C. Alter, on the Tagalese Language, Vienna,
1802, merely informs us that an imperfect MS.
Tagalese Vocabulary exists in the Imperial Library
at Vienna.

: " System of Languages and Numerals of the
Eastern Islands of the Great Ocean.** When we
wrote our observations on the dialects of the
islanders of the Great Ocean, we had not been
able accurately to compare the dialect of Tonga
with any other dialect of the same general lan-
guage, and such a comparison was necessary suffi-
ciently to establish our decision.

We must here return our thanks to a man of
learning, who took a lively interest in the object of
our research, and zealously strove to procure for
us the literary assistance which we required. His
Excellency the Minister of State, Baron William
Von Humboldt exerted himself to procure for us
some of the books which the venerable mission-
aries in the Society islands have written in the
same language, and which have been printed partly

A

\

uo

APPfiNDIX.

at Paramatta, in New South Wales, partly in Ota-
lieite itself, and of which mention is made in the
Narrative of the Mission at Otaheite. London,
1818, ■ "t ■ •'" •

We see, with astonishment, these islands, under
the influence of Christianity, quickly and tran-
quilly rising from a state of social order, resem-
bling ours in the middle ages, to that which has
but now begun for our world after long and bloody
storms. The people and the chiefs there take each
other by the hand over the ruins of the abolished
social system, of the taboo, and of arbitrary power j
the written law is unanimously and solemnly de-
sired, proposed, and confirmed, and the foreign
teachers, who refrain from all interference in the
concerns of the state, behold, with prayers of gra-
titude, the growth of the seed they have sown.

While we hoped, in vain, for specimens of the
rising literature of Otaheite, our wish has been
fulfilled in another dialect, and we are indebted for it
to the same beneficent Missionary Society. We have
before us a Grammar and Vocabulary of the Lan-
guage of New Zealand, published by the Church
Missionary Society. London, 1820. 8vo. The
author of this grammar is the same Mr. Kendall
who has communicated to us the Vocabulary in
Nicolas's voyage. The language has now been
opened to us, and we correct our opinion.

The dialect of New Zealand has, like the Tonga,
pronouns of the three persons in the singular, and

13

th(
th(

\\.

CORRECTIONS AND REMARKS.

441

the four persons in the dual and plural, (we mean
the double first person, of which the one includes,
and the other excludes, the person addressed.) The
pronouns of the dual are formed of the roots of
those of the plurals, and of the number two. All
appear, in the dialect of New Zealand, more simple
and more concentrated than in the dialect of
Tonga, where every person has several pronouns
of different uses. These pronouns, and particularly
those of the twofold first person of the plural,
must be the most difficult part of the language for
a foreigner, what he last conceives and makes
himself master of. Being an essential part of the
Malay language, they may, perhaps, exist in all
the dialects of Eastern Polynesia, and we now
believe we have done wrong in omitting, as
dubious, in the dialect of Owhyee, the pronoun of
the third person, which Lisianskoy mentions. It is
Oyera, which coincides with ly-a, Malay j SiyUt
Tagalog ; la, Tonga and New Zealand.
. The particles which mark the time and mode
of the action, are different in the dialects of Tonga,
New Zealand, and Owhyee.

It is very far from easy to find out the
arithmetical system of a people. It is at New
Zealand, as at Tonga, the decimal system. What
may, perhaps, have deceived Mr. Kendall, at the
beginning, in his first attempt in Nicolas*s voy-
age, and which we followed, is the custom of the
New Zealanders to count things by pairs. The

•4
I

IJ

m

/ '

1

I

J

ii'2

APPENDIX.

natives of Tonga count the bananas and fish like-
wise by pairs and by twenties {Teco'Wf English
score). The decimal and vigesimal system fre-
quently run into one another, (quatre-vingt, sia:'
vingt, quinze-vingt. ) We do not believe we have
erred, with respect to Uadack, but the numeral
system of the Owhyeeans, and other people of the
Great Ocean, may, perhaps, require a more ac-
curate examination.

The orthography fixed in the New Zealand
Grammar, is natural and worthy of recommend-
ation ', and it is to be hoped tliat it agrees with
that followed in the Otaheite books.

MANILLA. — VOLCANO DE TAAL.

The drawing mentioned by us of the crater of
the Volcano lie Taal, will be found in the ** Voyage
Pitoresque," which M. Choris is going to publish
at Paris, under the especial patronage of his High-
ness Count Romanzoff. This beautiful and faith-
ful gallery of our voyage will greatly illustrate our
observations and remarks. We oflen found it su-
perfluous to describe what it was the province of
the able artist to represent to the eye.

*-t'' \

,;.T

THE END.

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