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POLA

♦

DUOOVERY AND ADVENTURE

W TBI

POLAR SEAS AND REGIONS.

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PREFACE

Thx design of the present work is to exhibit «
complete and connected view of the successive
voyages made to the Arctic regions. In those
climates Nature is marked by the most stupendous
features, and the forms which she assumes differ
from her appearances in our milder latitudes almost
as widely as if they belonged to another planet.
There the scenery is awful and dreary, yet abounds
in striking, sublime, and even beautiful objects.
The career of the navigators, who at various times
have traversed the northern seas, amid tempest,
darkness, and mountains of floating ice, presents
such a series of peril and vicissitude, and has given
rise to so many extraordinary displays of intrepidity
and heroism, as cannot fail to render most fiiterest-
ing the story of their several adventures. When
we consider also, that in this field of discovery
England laid the foundation of her maritime pie-
eminence, and that the men who have earned the
greatest glory in it have been chiefly British, it will
be admitted that the History of Northern Navigation
must have a peculiar charm for the Englis}! reader.

The narrative of these Voyages has been care-
fully drawn from the most authentic sources, by

vi PREFAOSt

Mr. Hugh Murray ; and the most distingaishedmen
of science in Scotland have lent their aid to illus*
trate that wonderful order of nature wliich prevaOs
within the Arctic Circle. Professor Leslie has
commenced the volume with a full examination of
the Climate and its Phenomena,— subjects so promi-
nent in those high latitudes, that, without a prelimi-
nary knowledge of them, the progress of discovery
would be but imperfectly understood. A general
Survey of all that is known of the Geological Struc-
ture of the same interesting regions is given by Pro-
fessor Jameson. The chapter on Natural History,
though it treats the subject rather in a popular than
in a scientific manner, has received the careiul re-
vision of a distinguished naturalist

The Whale-fishery forms an essential branch of
the present work. Of its daring operations, and its
various perils — as they occur in the depth of the
Polar seas— the description here introduced may be
the more acceptable, as it is presumed to be the only
one hitherto attempted within a moderate compass.

It might, perhaps, be expected that this work
should embrace an account of the expeditions per-
formed, by land or in boats, to ascertain the northern
boundaries of America and Asia : such a narrative,
however, was found quite incompatible with the
object of the present undertaking. The relation
of these enterprises may find a place in some future
volumes devoted expressly to the history of adven-
ture on the remote shores of those two continents

■■Miiiritriiiiiitfc--iiiiiiiViiiiM[<iiBiiiWii[aiiia^^

■;■♦■'

)st distingaishedmen
ent their aid to illus*
ature wlilch prevails
rofessor Leslie has
full examination of
,— subjects 80 promi-
Eit, without a prelimi-
trogress of discovery
ierstood. A general
he Geological Struc-
ions is given by Pro-
on Natural History,
ler in a popular than
eived the careful re>
alist

1 essential branch of
ig operations, and its
in the depth of the
re introduced may be
isumed to be the only
I moderate compass,
icted that this work
the expeditions per-
iscertain the northern
[a : such a narrative,
:ompatible with the
king. The relation
place in some future
the history of adven-
hose two continents

CONTENTS.

Chip.I.— The Climate of the PoIm Regions ... "5
n — Aninial and Vegetable life in the Polar

Regions a»

in.— Ancient Voyages to the North .... 83
rV. — Voyage* in Search of a North-East Paaaage 90
v.— Early Voyagei towards the Pole .... 18a
VI.— Early Voyages in Search of a North-West

Passage 143

VII.P— Recent Voyages for the Discorerf of a

North-West Passage MO

T m.— Recent Voyages towards the North Polo . S69
EC'^The Northern Whsle-Fisheiy . . . . ; Wf
X. — Arctic Geology >•• ,. 353

■Hita

mp«MaiVfr««««E«a

ENGRAVINGS.

Chart of the Polar Seas . . . To face the TttUpage.
VioOTtTTK— Perils attending the Whale-Fjahcry

'««•>«'■«■ Pa^e28

Whale with its Cub, Narwal, Ac 57

Arctic Animals— Polar Bear, Reindeer, Wolf, Pox,'

„^°8'*«'-- 65

Esquimaux Boy md Dog gg

Bear approaching a Srow-hut 131

Esquimaux striking a Walrus ! ! ! 148

Kayak, or Greenlander's Canoe ! 164

Mount Hecia • • ! * 181

Oomiak, or Woman's Boat ! . 224

SnowViUage ! ! ! . 834

Group of Esquimaux ! ! 846

Esquimaux Watching a Seal-hole ...*.* .' .* .^9

^inplemenU used in the Whale-Fisheiy . . . ! ! 315

^* ■■*•■> >..-«>-..

-^11 i'lil'whia'ilifii iiiiimi iimfaat^^M^iiia^^gnj

[NQS.

. Tofcxe the TttUpage.
iVhale-Fishory
• . . . . Page 28

' 67

indeer, Wolf, Fox,

65

88

131

143

164

••••».. 181

224

234

846

' «49

ishery 315

POLAR
SEAS AND REGIONS.

CHAPTER I.

The OitmOe of the Polar Regiom.

Tot climate and seasons within the Arctic cirete
exhibit most peculiar and strikine features, which
modify in a sin^ar manner the whole aspect of na
ture. An investigation of those phenomena seems
therefore necessary for enabling the reader to com-
prehend the narrative, and to follow through such
icy regions the paths of the daring navigators. And
the more fully to elucidate the subject, it will be
proper to give some explication of the principles that
regulate generally the distribution of neat over the
simace of our globe.

Many of the acts relating to the Polar climate have
been collected in the course of the bold and ardu-
ous attempts to penetrate to India across the northern
seas, rejects of tfiis kind, after being lone sus-
pended, were, in 1818, renewed, and embraced with
peculiar ardour by the English government For
two or three years previous to 1818, the captains of
ships employed in the northern whale-fishenr had ge-
nerally concurred in representing the Arctic sea as
of a sti/'den become almost open and accessible to
the adventurous navigator. Bythemorespeculativs
relaterti, it had been supposed that the vast 'vej bar*
Tier which, for many ages, obstructed those foilom
regions was at last, by some revolution of ouKglobsh

10

ClIHATK.

broken up and dispersed. The project of finding a
north-west passage to Asia,— a project so often
attempted and so long abandoned, — was by conse
quence again revived ; and the more daring scheme
of penetrating to the Pole itself had likewise been
seriously proposed. Of the complete success of
either plan, the hopes of sober thinkers were indeed
extremely slender; yet the prospect held forth
seemed to be more inviting, on the whole, than at any
former period when such bold undertakings had been
attempted. The discovery of a north-west passage,
were it ever attainable, could hardly, it is true, be
of any real benefit to our commerce ; since, in such
high latitudes, where only it must be sought for, it
would at all times be very precarious, and liable
to intemtption from the prevalence of ice. The
scheme of actually reaching that northern point on
the surface of our globe, which terminates its axis
of rotation, however interesting m a philosophical
view, can only be regarded as an object of pure cu-
riosity, and not hkely to lead to any useful or prac-
tical results. Yet was it befitting the character of
a great maritime nation to embrace every chance
of improving geographical knowledge, and of ex-
tending the -basis of natwal science.

The books and memoirs which contain the latest
accounts of the state of the northern seas, either sug-

i rested the enterprise then pursued, or were brought
brward in consequence of its adoption. Mr. Dames
Barrington, a man of learning and some ingenuity, em-
braced with ardour the opinion of the possibility of ap-
proaching to the Pole. In successive papers commu-
nicate d to the Royal Society of Irf)n(U>n he not only
condensed the information furnished by the older voy-
agers, but exhibited the results of the numerous que-
ries relating to the same object, which he had circu-
lated among persons engaged in the Greenland fishery
He thus iMt)ved, that in certain favourable seasons, Uie
Arctic «eas are for several weeks so open, that intrepid

rv.

lie project of findine a
I,— a project so often
idoned, — was by conse
de more daring scheme
self had likewise been
3 complete success of
3r thinkers were indeed
! prospect held forth
n tne whole, than at any
1 undertakings had been
f a north-west passage,
Id hardly, it is true, be
nmerce ; since, in such
must be sought for, it
precarious, and liable
svalence of ice. The
that northern point on
ich terminates its axis
ting ma philosophical
I an object of pure cu-
'. to any useful or prac-
itting the character of
embrace every chance
Jiowledge, and of ex-
cieuce.

>iich contain the latest
irthem seas, either sug-
rsued, or were brought
adoption. Mr. Daines
nd some ingenuity, em-
of the possibility of ap-
cessive papers commu-
of liOndon he not only
lished by the older voy-
i of the numerous que-
st, which he had circu<
1 the Greenland fishenr
favourable seasons, tae
\B so open, that intrepid

CtniATB.

11

navigators might safely penetrate to a very high
latitutlc. In compliance with his sanguine repre-
sentat ions, the Admiralty, in 1773, despatched Captain
Phipps to explore those regions ; but this commander
was unsuccessful in the attempt, having reached only
the latitude of 80i degrees when his ship got sur-
rounded by a body of ice near Spitzbergen, and es-
caped with extreme difficulty, though many of the
whaleis had in that summer advanced further. Mr.
Barringlon did not, however, despair ; nd, following
out his views, he induced Mr. Naire aid Dr. Higgins
to mako experiments on the congelation of sea-water.
The various facts were collected in a small volume,
to whi{h Colonel Beaufoy subjoined an appendix,
containing the answers made to his queries by Rus-
sian hunters (who are accustomed to spend the
whole yesir in Spitzbergen), relative to the probability
of travelling from that island to the Pole during win-
ter, in sledges drawn by rein-deer. The reports of
these haidy men were sufficiently discouraging.
Tliey pictured the winter at Spitzbergen as not only
severe but extremely boisterous, the snow falling to
the depth of three or five feet, and drifting so much
along the shores by the violence of the winds as
often to Mock up all communication. The danger
of being surprised and overwhelmed by clouds of
snow, raised in sudden gusts, was so great, that they
never ventinred to undertake any long journeys over
liie ice. ^for did they think it at all practicable to
have loaded sledges dragged over a surface so
rough and Idlly, by the force of reindeer or dogs.

■nie speculations of Mr. Scoresby had more than
ordinary chums to attention, as exhibiting the con-
clusions of a most diligent, accurate, and scientific
observer. Trained, from infancy to the navigation
of the frozen seas, under the direction of his father,
a r ost enlei-prising and successful leader, he con-
joined expoiience with ingenuity and judgment. For
several years, during the intervals of his Greenland

msmmmm

m

WMW" -^^

/^

IS ouiiAn<

yaytgm, he proMcated a regular comae of study,
wmcn enriched his mind with liberal attainments, and
gave a new impulse to his native ingenuity and
ardour. It was exceedingly to be regretted that any
JealoiBries or official punctUios should have prevented
government from intru8tin|r the principal command
of the Polar expedition to hun who not only proposed
it originally, but whoso talents and science, Joined to
his activity, perseverance, and enthusiasm, afforded
assuredly the best promise of its ultimate success.

Hans Esede, a benevolent enthusiast, formed a
plan of reclaiming the natives of Greenland from the
errors of Paeanism. After various ineffectual at-
tempts, he at last procured, by subscription, the sum
of £3000, with which he purcnased a vi ssel, and car<
ried his family and forty settlers to Baal*s river, in
the 64th degree of north latitude, where he landed
on the 3d of July, 1731. He was afterward ap-
pointed missionary, with a small salary by the Danish
government, which occasionally granted some aid to
Uie colony. During his stay, which lasted till 1736,
he laboured with great zeal m his vocation. In 1767,
the year before his death, he printed his Deteription
t^GreaUand, in the Danish langua^, at Copenhagen.
A translation of that work, much miproved and en-
laired, with useful additions by the editor, contains
valuable information, tinged vrith a large portion of
creduhty.

It is remarkable, that two centuries of extreme
activity should have added so very little to our
knowledge of the Arctic regions, llie relations of
the earlier navigators to tiiose parts possess an in-
terest which has not been yet eclipsed. The voyue
of Martens from Hamburgh to Spitzbergen may Be
cited as still the most instructive^ But uie best and
completest work on the subject of the northern
fisheries, is a treatise in three volumes octavo, trans-
lated from the Dutch language into French by
Bernard de Reste, and published at Paris in 1801,

rTimUBiTiitiir

t.

galar comae of study,
liberal attainments, and
native ingenuity and
to be regretted that any
I should have prevented
the principal command
1 who not only proposed
1 and science, Joined to
d enthusiasm, afforded
its ultimate success,
t enthusiast, formed a
I of Greenland from the
various ineffectual at-
V subscription, the sum
based a vi ssel, and car*
lers to Baal*s river, in
tude, where he landed
He was afterward ap-
all salary by the Danish
Uy granted some aid to
which lasted till 1736,
his vocation. In 1767,
printed his I7e*ertp<KM
igua^, at Copenhagen,
luch miproved and en-
by the editor, contains
nrith a large portion of

centuries of extreme
so very little to our
ons. The relations of
B parts possess an in-
eclipsed. The voyue
o Spitzbergen may on
tive« But uie best and
bject of the northern
volumes octavo, trans-
lage into French by
shed at Paris in 1801,

CLIIUTI.

18

un^er the title Hittmre de$ Picha, des DicomeiUt,
ttdes Etablitsemens da HoUandaii dans len Mer» du
Nard.

Tli« Arctic expedition, which in 1818 attracted the
attention of the public, proposed two d/ninct ob-
jects,—to advance towards the Pole— and to explore
a north-west passage to China. These were no
doubt splendid schemes ; but, in order to form a right
estimate of the plan and some anticipation of its pro-
bable results, it was necessary to proceed with cau-
tion, and employ the lights of science to guide our
steps. The facts alleged, respecting the vast islands
or continents of ice recently separated and dispersed
from the Arctic regions, gave occasion to much loose
reasoning, to wild and random conjectures, and
visionary declamation. Glowing anticipations were
confidently formed of the future amelioration of cli-
mate, which would scarcely be hazarded even in the
dreams of romance. Every person possessing a
slight tincture of physical science, conceived himself
qualified to speculate concerning the phenomena of
weather, in which he feels a deep interest j and hence
a very flimsy and spurious kind of philosophy, how-
ever trifling or despicable it may appear in the eyes
of the few who are accustomed to think more pro-
foundly, gained currency among certain classes of
men, and engendered no smaU ^are of conceit.
Meteorology is a complex science, depending on so
many subordinate principles, that require the union
of acciurate theory with a range of nice and various
observations, as to have advanced very slowly
towards perfection.

With regard to the nature and real extent of the
change which had taken place in the condition of
the icy seas, the reports have no doubt been greatly
exaggerated. To reduce them to their just amount,
it woulf*. be necessary to estimate the annual effects
produced in those regions, and likewise to compare
the observations of a similar kmd made by expe-

im

14

OUHATX.

rienced navigators at fonner periods. From a
critical examination of the vanous facts left on
record, it will perhaps appear, that those Arctic
seas have been more than once, in the course of
the last half century, as open as they are now repre-
sented.

To discuss with accuracy the question of the
periodical formation and destruction of the Polar
ice, it becomes necessary to explain the true princi-
pies which regulate the distribution of heat over the
globe. This I shall attempt to perform, independent
of every hypothesis, by a direct appeal to experiment
and observation.

If, at any place we dig into the ground, we find, by
the insertion of a thermometer, that, as we succes-
sively descend, we approach constantly to some
limitmg temperature, wnich below a certain depth
continues unchanged. This depth of equilibrium
varies in different soils ; but seldom exceeds thirty
or fifty feet. If the excavation be made about the
commencement of winter, the temperature will ap-
pear to increase in the lower strata ; but, on the con-
trary, if the pit be formed in the beginning of sum-
mer, it will be foimd to grow colder as we descend.*
Hence, the mass of the earth merely transmits veiy
slowly the impressions of heat or of cold received at
its surface. The external temperature of any given
day will perhaps take near a month to penetrate
only one foot into the ground. By digging down-
wards in summer, we soon. reach, therefore, the im-
pressions of the preceding spring and winter ; but the
same progress into tiie ground brings us back to the

* In the dreary climate of Hudion'i Bajr, it la remaikad bj the ml.
denta, thai, erea durtDf the anmmer montha, in digglnf Ibrongh Iha
ground Ibr a grave, they alwaya come at the depth of a Aw ftet to a
atrsturo of fmen earth. A alngularftature of the remoter Arelletiaeta
la the flreqnent appearance of ml mote. Tbla deception la oeeaaioned
hy the interspersed multitudes of mtnnte plants, now termed Pntoeoeau
itiiiala, a species of A Ira, which penetrate to a great depth through ths
anow, and vegetate in the aevenst weather

liiiWWBa

MIMATE.

IS

T periods. From a
ranous facts left on
ir, that those Arctic
ice, in the course of
us they are now repre<

the question of the
miction of the Polar
Kplain the true princi«
ution of heat over the
) perform, independent
t appeal to experiment

he ground, we find, by
3r, that, as we succes-
1 constantly to some
lelow a certain depth
depth of equilibrium
eldom exceeds thirty
in be made about the
I temperature will ap-
trata; but, on the con-
le be^nning of sum-
older as we descend.*
merely transmits very
or of cold received at
iperature of any given
1 month to penetrate
1. Bv digging down«
ach, therefore, the im-
ig and winter; but the
brings us back to the

sy, it ii nmaiked by Iha rMl.
>nth«.in digilnf tbroagh the
tbe depth of a Aw ftat to ■
re of the remoter Areiletiaeta
Thle deception ti oeeasioned
lants, now Mrmed Pnlacoeeu*
te 10 s greki depth through th*

temperatures of the autumn and of the summer.
Still lower, all the various fluctuations of heat be-
come intermingled and confounded in one common
mean. Such observations are more easily and cor-
rectly made, by having thermometers, with long
stems, sunk to different depth? in the ground ; and
from an extensive register we may conclude, that tho
temperature of the ground is always the mean result
of the impressions made at the surface during a
series of years. The successive strata, therefore, at
preat depths, may be regarded as permanent records
of the average state of the weat'aer in distant ages.
Perhaps the superficial influence will scarcely de-
scend fifty feet m the lapse of a century. Copious
springs, which percolate the bowels of the earth, and
rapidly convey the impressions of subterranean heat
to the surface, will consequently furnish the most
accurate reports of the natural register of climate.
These, if rightly chosen, differ not sensibly in theit
temperature at all seasons ; and, whether they have
their seat at a depth of one hundred or of five hun-
dred feet, they affect the thermometer alike.* Wo
are hence entitled to conclude, that however the
weather may have varied from year to year, or
changed its character at intervals of short periods of
years, it has yet undergone no material alteration
during the efflux of many ages.

Some philosophers attempt to explain such facts
as are now stated, from the supposed internal heat
of the globe, caused by the action of central fires ;
and pretend, in support of their favourite hypothesis-

..r Th« "'"b^teJ nrantaJn of Vancltue, eltnate fai the latitude of 430
55 , and SM diet abore the le»el of the Mediterranean Sea, ha« benn ob-
•enred to acquire Ita hIgheM temperature aboni the Drat day of Sewem-
b« and to reach the lowMt at the beginning of April, the fbrmer being
560.8, and the latter 94o.l by Fahranhelt'a scale ; which gWee 540.2 tor
. "f"* "•"• "* """•" •" solleoted fttmi tbe flaaurea of an meo-
ai»« UuMMooe rack, and aeeinio receWe the auperflclal Impreaalons In
Je space of three months. They burst fcrth with aueh a volume as to
wm, only a ftiw yards below their source, the translucld SorROe. a rtfer
•sawelylilteioriq ita dlachaige to the Tay abore Perth. »""•""'"

mm

16

CLIMATE.

that the temperature nlwayi increases near the bot-
tom of vf>ry (lenp mines. But this observation liolda
only in partitnilar situations, where the warm exha-
lations from the burning of lamps and the broathiiigr
ttf the workmen are collected and confined under the
roofs of the galleries. In the case of a deep open
pit, the effect is quite reversed, the bottom beini;;
always colder than the mean temperature. This is
owing to the tendency of the chill air to descend by
its superior density. The supcrhcial impressions of
heat and cold are thus not sent equally downwards ;
so that the warmth of summer is dissipated at the
mouth of the pit, while the rigours of winter are col-
lected below. A similar modification of temperature
we shall find occurs in profound lakes, in conse-
quence of the disposition of the colder and denser
portions of the water always to sink down.

The permanent heat of the ground is, therefore,
produced by the mere accumulation of incessant ex-
ternal impressions. These impressions are received,
either directly from the sun's rays, or circuitously,
through the medium of atmospheric influence. But
air is hetter fitted for diffusing than for storing up
heat. The whole mass of the atmosphere, it may be
easily shown, does not contain more heat than a
stratum of water only ten feet thick, or one of earth
measuring fifteen feet. According to their relative
temperature, the winds, in sweeping along the

ground, either abstract or conmiunicate warmth,
ut the sun is the great and original fountain of
heat, which the internal motion excited in the at-
mosphere only serves to distribute more equally over
the earth's surface. The heat imparted to the air,
or to the ground, is always proportional to the ab-
sorption of the solar beams; and the results are
hence still the same, whether we embrace the simple
theory, that heat is only the subtle fluid of light, in
a state of combination with its substratum ; or pre-
fer the opinion, that light has always conjomed

mMh

icreases near the bot-
this observation holds
vhere the warm exha-
mps and the hroatliing
ind conAncd under the

case of a deep open
led, the bottom being
temperature. This is
diilt air to descend by
erhcial impressions of
it eqdally downwards ;
er ia dissipated at the
ours of winter are col-
Ication of temperature
ound lakes, in conse-
;he colder and denser
o sink down.

ground is, therefore,
lation of incessant ex-
pressions are received,

rays, or circuitously,
pheric influence. But
; than for storing up
atmosphere, it may be
tin more heat than a
thick, or one of earth
irding to their relative
sweeping along the
ommunicate warmth.

original fountain of
ion excited in the at-
lule more equally over
t imparted to the air,
roportional to the ab-

and the results are
ive embrace the simple
ubtle fluid of light, in
B substratum; or pre-
las always conjoined

CLIMATB If

With it a certain admixture of the invisible matter
of heal.

Owing to the spherical form of the earth, and the
obliquity of its axis, very different quantities of !lght
or heat are received in the several latitudes. The
same portion of heat which would raise the tempera-
ture of 135 pounds of water a degree on Fahrenheit's
s&Rle, is only capable of melting one pound of ice.
The measure of ice dissolved is, therefore, the sim-
plest and most correct standard for estimating the
quantity of heat expended in that process. If we
apply calculation to actual experiment, we shall find
that the entire and unimpaired light of the sun would,
at the Equator, at the mean latitude of 46°, and at
the Pole, be sufllcient to melt a thickness of ice ex-
pressed by 38.7, 86.9, and 13.4 feet. Of this enor-
mous action, the greatest portion is no doubt wasted
in the vast abyss of the ocean ; and, of the remain,
der, a still larger share is perhaps detained and dis-
sipated in the upper atmosphere, or projected agaia
in a soft phosphorescence. Yet the light which, afta
those defalcations, finally reaches the surface of the
earth, if left to accumulate there, would create suck
inequality of temperature as must prove quite insup-
portable.

The slow conducting quality of the ground, if not
altered by extraneous influence, would fix the heat
where it was received, and thus perpetuate the eflfect
of the unequal action of the sun's beams. The
mobiUty of the atmosphere hence performs an im-
portant office in the economy of nature, as a great
regulator of the system, dispensing moderate warmth,
and attempering the extremities of climate over the
face of the globe. As the heat accumulates within
the tropics, it will occasion currents of cold air to
rush from the higher latitudes. But the activity of
the winds thus raised, being proportional to their ex-
citing cause, must prevent it from ever surpassing
certain limits. A perpetual commerce of heat be-
B8

18

OiniATB.

tween the Poles nnd the Equator it hence maintained,
by the agtsiw-y of oprxwitn currenlH in tho atmotphcre.
llieae currents will often have their dircction moili*
fled ; and they njay Btill produce the same effects, by
puTHuinfT an oblique or devious course. The actual
phenomena of climate only require the various
winds, throughout tlie year, to advance southwards
or northwards at the mean rate of almost two miles
an hour, or to perform in effect three journeys of
transfer annually from tlie Ki|uator to either Pole.
Not that these currents carry the impressions of heat
or cold directly from one extremity of the ^lobo to
the other, but, by their incessant play, they contri-
bute, in the succession of ages, to spread them gra-
dually over tho intervening space.

The system of opoosito aerial currents leads to the
same law of the graaation of temperature in different
latitudes, as the celebrated Professor Mayer of G6t-
tingen deduced from an empirical process. It would
appear that the variation of the mean temperature
at the level of the sea is always proportional to tho
sine of twice the latitude. Thus, for the parallels
of every five degrees, the arrangement is simple ; —

LalHnd*.

Mean Ttmntnton.

lAillnde.

M«an TMnpwatnr*.

o»

84«

60°

53».5

6

83 .8

55

49 .3

10

83 .4

60

45 .0

15

80 .7

65

41 .3

SO

77 .9

70

38 .1

S5

74 .9

75

35 .5

30

70 .9

80

33 .6

36

67 .0

85

33 .4

40

63 .4

90

33 *

45

58 .0

* Perhtpa thtgnulMton ortempererarawoaId,in the higher IntllndM,
nqnlra > vmall modlflcatlon. Inetcid of Rnnminir 3V> m the medium
at (be Pole, It mifhl be more exa«l lo adopt SMO, or the meitinc poiM or
the tea o( aea-watcr. Uut (lie recent vojiigore have rcKialerca the cold
neat in advancing nortbMrarda u much mors iuiaiuo. It la ef ideul, how

L.

MattM

>r if hence maintained,
nls in thfl atmosphpre.
! their direction moill*
!e the Burae effcclH, by
8 course. The actual
require the various
) advKnce southwHrda
e of iilinoRt two milen
ect tliree journeys of
juiitor to either Pole.
he iinpreRaiona of heat
einity of the Rlobo to
lant play, they contri-
B, to apread them gra-
ace.

lal currents leads to the
emperature in different
nfessor Mayer of G6t-
cal process. It would
ho mean temperature
lys proportional to the
riuis, for the parallels
uigement is simple ; —

llluds.

M«an TMnpontnr*.

50"

63°.6

65

49 .3

60

45 .0

65

41 .3

70

38 .1

76

35 .6

BO

33 .6

B6

33 .4

90

33 *

I wonld. In the higher IiUllndai,
URnminir S** m the medium
ipt S(f>, or tho nwItlnK poiat of
iigura have rcKlHlurvd tho cold
mluMiUd. ltl«eTld«ul,how

CUMATV. If

The arlthmoticnl mean, or 68", corresponds to tho
Tiiddle latiliiii. of 45°; but tho real mean of the
t. .iifwrnlure over the wliole surfsico of tlie globe is
67"^, which shouhl occur on llin parallel of 36° 614'.

The Mvsliin of currents niaintaiii^tl in tho atmo-
sphere likewise contributes essentially, by it« iinccas-
mg agen(fy in transfcrrinfy and disuersmK heat, to

Erevent the excessive inu<|uality of seasons in the
igher latitudes. But the motions produ(;ed in such
a vast mass of fluid must evidently follow, at long
intervals, the accumulated causes which excite them.
Hence probably the oripn of those violent winds
which, succeedmg to the sultry warmth of summer
and the sliarp frosts of winter, prevail in the months
of September and March, and are therefore called
by seamen the Equinoctial GaUi. In the Arctic
seas nature has made a farther provision for corrcet-
inff the excessive irrefn»l»rity of tho action of the
sun's rays. This luminary, for several months in
winter, is totally withdrawn from that dreary waste ;
but, to compensate for his long absence, he continues
during an equal period in summer to shine without
interruption. Now, from a beautiful arrangement,
the surface of the ocean itself, by its alternate
freeiiiig and thawing, presents a vast substratum,
on which the excesses of heat and of cold in succes-
sion are mutually spent. In ordinary cases, the
superficial water, as it cools and therefore contracts,
sinks down into the abyss by its superior gravity {
but when it grows warmer it expands, and conse-
(juently floats incumbent, communicating afterward
its surplus heat with extreme slowness to the mass
below. But the seas within the Arctic circle being
always near the verge of congelation, at which limit

vnt, that their thermometrtcal obsfrratlona muit be afllieted by dome
latent and inalerial Inncciincy. Were the iin«n temperature of Iha
Arctic tegloiM really below (he point of aaline con(!Blntlon, the annual
(torination uf Ico in thane iteaii woulil execed the iiunntUy dlaeblvod, and
tbnr«rni« the oxtcnHlon urthe Ihnun AelUa would, cuntrary to liicl, be con
Mwtly progrcwiTn.

20

OLIHATC.

water scarcely undergoes any sensible alteration of
volume even from a considerable change of tempera-
ture, the superficial stratum remains constantly
stagnant, and exposed to receive all the variable im-
pressions of the 8weepir.g winds. The piercing cold
of wintp;, therefore, spends its rage in freezing the
salt water to a depth proportional to its intensity
and continuance.* The prolonged warmth of sum-
mer again is consumed in melting those fields of ice,
every inch of which in thickness requiring as much
absorption of heat as would raise the temperature
of a body of water loi feet thick a whole degree.
ITie summer months are hence nearly gone before
the sun can dissolve the icy domes, and shoot with
entire effect his slanting rays. It may be shown,
that under the Pole the action of the solar light is,
at the time of the solstice, one-fourth part greater
than at the equator, and sufficient in the course of
a day to melt a sheet of ice an inch and a half
thick.

If horizontal winds serve to balance the unequi
ajJtion of the solar beams over the surface of the
mobe, the rising and descending currents excited m
the body of the atmosphere still more effectually
maintain the equilibrium of day and night. After
the ground has become heated by the direct illumi-
nation of the sun, it warms the lowest portion of the
incumbent air, which, being thus dilated, begins to
ascend, and therefore occasions the descent of an
equal portion d( the fluid. But these vertical cur-
rents, being once created, will continue their motion
long after the primary cause has ceased to impel
them, and may protract, during the night, the accu-

• At Melyille Wand, in the latitude of 74° 45', Captain Parrrob-
eerred ice to form of a tlilclinen from tliree to five incliea, around Iha
8lip'B«lde«,inthe»paceof twenty-four lionra; and In (me instance it

K US^til'l^'SH^™ ""''r*K''"* *"""*' «^«nhel.'. thennS;
being tlien 18° below zero. Sucli power of congelation, it might be com
puted, would require the full refHgerating action of a atnium of iSri
that limptniare, and nUiar men >Jmo« mile in heifht '•>™" ■"*

CLIHATfl.

21

sensible alteration of
>le change of tempera-
remains constantly
re all the variable im-
Is. The piercing cold
I rage in freezing the
ional to its intensity
iged warmth of sum-
ing those fields of ice,
}S8 requiring as much
■aise the temperature
hick a whole degree.
3e nearly gone before
omes, and shoot with
. It may be shown,
of the solar light is,
e-fourth part greater
ent in the course of
an inch and a half

balance the unoqual
er the surface of the
ig currents excited in
still more effectually
ay and night. After
by the direct illumi-
lowest portion of the
lus dilated, begins to
18 the descent of an
It these vertical cur-
lontinue their motion
has ceased to impel
' the night, the accu-

f 740 45', Captain Parry ob-
nee to five incbea, around the
onrg ; and In one instance it
ea, t^Wirenlieit'a thermometer
r congelation, it might be com
action of a atratun of air at
nila in height.

mulation 0.' chilled air on the surface of the earth.
Tliis effect i.'^ farther augmenied, in general, by the
fiigorific imprisHions which are at all times darted
downwards froiii a clear sky.* By t\w operation of
this combined system, therefore, the diurnal vicissi-
tudes of temperature are diminished in the temperate
and torrid zones. Another consequence results
from sucli rapid and continual interchange of the
higher and lower strata, that tlie same absolute
quantity of heat must obtain at every altitude in Uie
atmosphere.

This equal distribution of heat at all elevations
is moulded, however, by another principle, which
causes the regular gradation upwards of a decreasing
temperature. In fact, air is found to have its Capa-
city for heat enlarged by rarefaction ; so that any
portion of the fluid carried to the higher regions,
where it by consequence expands, will have its tem-
perature proportionally diminished. The decrease
of temperature in ascending the atmosphere is not
far from being uniform, at the rate of about one de
gree for every hundred yards of elevation. Hence
the limit of perpetual congelation forms a curve,
which is nearly the same as the Cmnpanion of the
Cycloid, bending gradaally from the equator, re-
verting its inflexure at the latitude of 45°, and
grazing the surface at the Pole. The mean heights
of eternal frost, under the equator, and at the lati-
tudes of 30° and 60°, are respectively 15207, 11484,
and 3818 feet.

. It is important to remark, that the heat of large
collections of water will seldom agree precisely with
the mean temperature corresponding to the latitude.
The variable impressions received at the surface
from the atmosphere will not, as on land, penetrate

• See Supplement to the Encyclopffldla Britannica, toI. 111. part i. p.
m ; or Tranaaetiona of tbe Royal aoclety of Edinburgh, toL tIU. i«M
il.pk469

ZZ OLIXATB.

dowly into the mass, and become mingled and
equalized at a moderate depth. Heat is conducted
through liquids chiefly by the internal play result-
mg from their partial expansion. In the more tem-
perate regions of the globe, the superficial waters of
lakes or seas, as they grow warmer, and, therefore,
specifically lighter, still remain suspended by their
acquired buoyancy. But whenever they come to be
chilled, they suffer contraction, and are precipitated
by their greater density. Hence the deep water,
both of lakes and of seas, is always considerably
colder than what floats at the surface. The grada-
tion of cold is distinctly traced to the depth of twenty
fathoms, below which the diminished temperature
continues nearly uniform as far as the sounding-
line can reach. In shallow seas however, the cold
substratum of liquid is brought nearer to the top.
The uicreasing coldness of water, drawn up from
the depth of only a few fathoms, may hence indi-
cate to the navirator who traverses the wide ocean
his approach to banks or land.

These principles, however, will not apply to the
peculiar circumstances of the Arctic seas. Water
differs essentially-, in its expansion by heat, from
mercury, oil, or alcohol : far from dilating uniformly,
a property which fits the latter substances for the
construction of thermometers, it swells from the
point of congelation, or rather a very few degrees
above it, with a rapid progression, to that of boiling.
Near the limit of its greatest contraction, the volume
of water is scarcely affected at all by any alteration
of heat. When the surface of the ocean is depressed
to a temperature between 28 and 44 degrees of
Fahrenheit's scale, it will remain almost stagnant,
and therefore exposed to the full impression of ex-
ternal cold. Hence the Polar seas are always ready,
under the action of any frosty wind, to suffer conge*
lation. The annual variations of the weather are in
those seas expended on the superficial waters, with

'. i

CLIMATE.

88

lecome mingled and
I. Heat is conducted

internal play result-
n. In the more tem-
i superficial waters of
armer, and, therefore,
n suspended by their
lever they come to be
I, and are precipitated
Bnce the deep 'water,

always considerably
surface. The grada-
te the depth of twenty
ninished temperature
far as the sounding-
sas however, the cold
lit nearer to the top.
ater, drawn up from
>ms, may hence indi-
erses the wide ocean

will not apply to the
Arctic seas. Water
lusion by heat, from
>m dUating uniformly,
ir substances for the
, it swells from the
r a very few degrees
on, to that of boiling,
tntraction, the volume
all by any alteration
the ocean is depressed
) and 44 degrees of
ain almost stagnant,
dl impression of ex-
eas are always ready,
ivind, to suffer conge*
of the weather are in
lerficial waters, with

out disturbing the vast abyss below. Contraiy to
what takes place under mOder skies, the water drawn
up from a considerable depUi is often warmer within
the Arctic circle than what lies on the surface. The
floating ice accordingly begins to melt generally on
the under side, from the slow communication of the
heat sent upwards.

These deductions are confirm ^ by the nice restdts
of astronomical observations. Any change in the
temperature of our globe would occasion a corres-
ponding mutation of volume, and consequently an
alteration in the momentum of the revolving mass.
Thus, if, from the accession of heat, the earth had
gained only a mUlionth part of linear expansion,
it would have required an increase of five times propor-
tionally more momentum to maintain die same rota-
tion. On this supposition, therefore, the diurnal re-
volution would have been retarded at the rate of three
seconds in a week. But the length of the day has
certainly not varied one second in a year since the
age of Hipparchus ; for we cannot imagine that the
ancient observations could ever deviate an hour from
the truth. We may hence conclude that, in the lapse
of three thousand years, the mass of our globe has
not acouired the ten-millionth part of expansion
which the smallest fraction of a degree of heat would
have communicated.

Tlie accumulation of ice on the surface of the
ocean would likewise have occasioned a prolongation
of the length of the day. This effect woidd no
doubt be diminished under the Arctic circle, from
the proximity of the glacial protuberance to the axis ;
but its influence womd cause a notable difference.

After the continued action of the sun has at last
melted away the great body of ice, a short and du-
Wous interval of warmth occurs. In the space of a
few weeks, only visited by slanting and enfeebled
ra)rs, frost again resumes his tremendous sway. It
begins to snow as early as August, and the whole

S4

OLnUTX.

\-\

\^

Sound 18 covered, to the depth of two or three feet,
fore the month of October. Along the shores and
the bays, the fresh water, poured from rivulets, or
drained from the thawing of former collections of
snow, becomes quickly converted into solid ice. As
the cold augments, the air deposites its moisture in
tlie form of a fog, which freezes into a fine gossamer
netting or spicular icicles, dispersed through the
atmosphere and extremely minute, that might seem
to pierce and excoriate the skin. The hoar frost set-
ties profusely, in fantastic clusters, on every promi-
nence. The whole surface of the sea steams like a
lime-kiln,— an appearance called the frost-smoke,
caused, as in other instances of the production of
vapour, by the water's being still relatively wanner
than the mcumhent air. At length the dispersion of
the mist, and consequent clearness of the atmosphere,
announce that the upper stratum of the sea itself
has cooled to the same standard; " heet of ice
spreads quickly over the smooth expanse, and often
gains the thickness of an inch in a single night. The
dartutess of a prolonged winter now broods impene-
trably over the frozen continent, unless the moon
chance at times to obtrude her faint rays, which only
discover the horrors and wide desolation of the scene.
The wretched settlers, covered with a load of bear-
skins, remain crowded and immured in their hut,
every chink of which they carefully stop against the
piercing external cold ; and, cowering about the stove
or the lamp, they seek to doze away the tedious
night. Their slender stock of provisions, though
kept m the same apartment, is often frozen so harf
aa to require to be cut by a hatchet. The whole of
the inside of their hut becomes lined with a thick
crust of ice; and, if they happen for an instant to
open a window, the moisture of the confined air is
immediately precipitated in the form of a shower of
snow. As the frost continues to penetrate deeper,
the rocks are heard at a distance to split with loud

♦ '.

c.

th of two or three feet,

Along the shores and

)ured from rivulets, or

former collections of
rted into solid ice. As
iposites its moisture in
;cs into a fine gossamer
iispersed through the
inute, that mi^t seem
n. The hoar frost set-
isters, on every promi-
f the sea steams like a
ailed the frost-imoke,
a of the production of
still relatively warmer
ength the dispersion of
less of the atmosphere,
turn of the sea itself
idard; " heet of ice
th expanse, and often
in a single night. The
ir now broods impene<
ent, unless the moon
faint rays, which only
Icsolation of the scene.
1 witli a load of bear-
mmured in their hut,
efuUy stop against the
wering about the stove
ize away the tedious
of provisions, though
often frozen so hard
tchet. The whole of
s lined with a thick
Jen for an instant to
)f the confined air is
! form of a shower of

to penetrate deeper,
ace to split with loud

OtnUTE. 24

explosioiu. The sleep of death seems to wrap up

the scene m utter and oblivious ruin.* *^

Kn^KiH"^^ -S^K*"" reappears abovo the horizon:

Sn K.-'^"*.^'™'' """«' '^^"'^ *he wide waste

Jh^fo^h^ *^° ^^^ prospect. By degrees, however,

inn^^^U""^"? °^.^h ^""^ " checked. In the

month of May, the famished inmates venture to leave

tiieir hut, m quest of fish on the margin of the sea.

As the sun acquires elevation, his power is greatlv

mcreased. The snow graduaUy WMtes awa?-lhe

ice dissolves apace-and vast fragments of it, de-

oS/j?" *1 ''^^ *I!^ undermined beneath/pre-

fC**^'**''®'""?^**'"" ^th the craillof

thunder. The ocean is now unbound, and its icy

dome broken up with tremendous rupture. The

enormous fields of ice, thus set afloat, are. bv the

Z!!!l^/ winds and currents, again disseverea and

fi^S!^^' ^•"^times.impeUed in opposite di^

I kf th^tlf rT**' "?/ ''^^'^ ^* '»"««"«> shock,
lil..o ♦« . °^ 70rid8,-s«ffieient, if opposed, to

™lt« n^'i.***'"''* *° * ""?*"*' *he Proudeitmon^
ments of human power. It is impossible to picture
a situation more awful than that of the poor crew
of a whaler, who see their fraU bark thw fataUv
*mi ti e^Peetmg immediate and inevitable dfr.

Before the end of June, the shoals of ice in the
Aretic seas are commonly divided, scattemd nnS
dissipated. ButtheatmoiherefteniS^?
tmuaUv damp, and loaded irith vapour. ^SttSs 22^
•on o^the year, a dense fog genenJlycoveSX

brejk tlieiU.Dee which iSfoStt^ uT • JSSS todiSlSr' *"
th«peM«bl«conipomire which <*ir«!Wrfi« ttSTi2^iJ^.^''«"
vMeJ countiy ; it wm Uh> detUi-Uto ^mS[aamlSS'^Jt 522"
lattoo. ud Um total abKnce of «nlm.uid«S!.^Lyf. "pT.f^^T^*'?^

c

86

OLIMATK.

surface of the sea, of a mUder temperature indeed
than the frost-smoke, yet produced by the inversion
of the same cause. The lower stratum of air, as it
successively touches the colder body of water, be-
comes chilled, and thence disposed to dcposite its
moisture. Such thick fogs, with mere gleams of
clear weather, infesting the northern seas during the
greater part of the summer, render their navigation
extremely dangerous. In the course of the month
of July, the superficial water is at last brought to an
equilibrium of temperature with the air, and the sun
now shines out with a bright and dazzling radiance.
For some days before the close of the summer, such
excessive heat is accumulated in the bays and shel-
tered spots, that the tar and pitch are sometimes
melted, and run down the ship's sides.

Notwithstanding the shortness of the summer in
fhe high latitudes, the air on land becomes often op-
pressively sultry. This excessive heat, being con-
joined with moisture, engenders clouds of mosqui-
toes, from the stings of which the Laplanders are
forced to seek refuge in their huts, where they enve-
lope themselves in dense smoke. Humidity marks
the general character of ihe Arctic regions, which
are covered during the greater part of the year with
chilling fogs. The sky seldom appears clear, except
for a few weeks in winter, when the cold at the sur-
face becomes most intense. Yet the rigour of that
season is not felt so severely as the thermometer
would indicate. When the temperature is lowest,
the air is commonly calm, and, therefore, alwtracts
less heat from the body than the exposure to a strong
wind of much inferior coldness. The providence of
the natives series to mitigate the hardsmps they have
to suffer. The Esijuimaux, on the approach of win-
ter, cut the hard ice into tall square blocks, with
which they construct regular spacious domes, con-
nected with other smaller ones, for the various pur-
poses of domestic economy They shape the inside

♦ '

totShmMafiaMiiixuMM/iaititna.^

ri.

der temperature indeed
oduced by the inversion
direr stratum of air, as it
rfder body of water, be-
disposed to deposite its
S with mere gleams of
northern seas during the

render their navigation
he course of the month
r is at last brought to an
with the air, and the sun

and dazzling radiance.
)se of the summer, such
ed in the bays and shel-
id pitch are sometimes
lip's sides.

rtness of the summer in
land becomes often op-
:es8ive heat, being con-
iders clouds of mosqui-
lich the Laplanders are
r huts, where they enve-
loke. Humidity marks
e Arctic regions, which
er part of the year with
am appears clear, except
rhen the cold at the sur-

Yet the rigour of that
ely as the thermometer
I temperature is lowest,
and, therefore, abstracts
the exposure to a strong
ess. The providence of
! the hardships they have
on the approach of win-
all square blocks, with
LT spacious domes, con-
ies, for the various pur-

They shape the inside

OLIMATIE.

27

With care, and give It an even, glossy surface by the
affusion of water. The snowy wall soon becomes
a solid concrete mass, which, being a slow conductor,
checks the access of cold, while it admits a sufficient
portion of liglit. It may also be remarked, that the
external darkness prevails only during a part of the
day. Since twilight obtains whenever the sun is
less depressed than 18 denrrees below the horizon, the
limits of entire obscuration occur in the latitudes of
84i» and 484°; in the former at midday in the win-
ter solstice, and in the latter at midnight in the sol-
stice of sunmer. Between these extremes the at-
mosphere at the opposite seasons glows to a greater
or a less extent, from the middle of the day or of
the night. Accordingly, Captain Pany's party,
during their detention at Melville Island, in the lati-
tude of 74° 40', found, that in clear weather, about
noon, they could easily, in the depth of winter, read
the smallest print on deck. This position corres-
ponds to the alternating parallel 01^68° 80', which
nearly reaches Orkney, where the transparency of
the nights in the height of summer is well known.
The approach of twilight is, besides, advanced in the
frozen regions by the superior refractive power of a
very dense atmosphere. The horizontal refraction
usually raises the lower limb of the sun and moon
about the twelfth part of their diameters, and often
pves it a wavy and fantastic outline. Hence the
reappearance of those luminaries is hastened within
the Arctic circle, though the quantity of anticipation
has been much exaggerated.

The ice which obstructs the navigation of the
Arctic seas consists of two very different kinds ; the
one produced by the congelation of fresh, and the
other by that of salt water. In those inhospitable
tracts, the snow which annually falls on the islands
or contuients, being again dissolved by the progress
of the summer's heat, pours forth numerous lills and
limpid streams, which collect along the indented

t8

CLIMATK.

shorei, and in the deep bays enclosed by precipitous
rocks. There, this clear and gelid water soon
freezes, and every successive year supplies an addi>
tional investing crust, till, after the lapse, perhaps, of
several centuries, the icy mass rises at last to the
size and aspect of a mountain, commensurate with
the elevation of the adjoining cliffs. The melting
of the snow, which is afterward deposited on such
enormous blocks, likewise contributes to their
growth; and, by filUng up the accidental holes or
crevices, it renders the whole structure compact and
imiform. Meanwhile, the principle of destruction
has ahready begun its operations. The ceaseless
agitation of the sea gradually wears and undermines
the base of the icy mountain, till, at length, by the
action of its own accumulated weight, when it has
perhaps attained an altitude of a thousand, or even
two thousand feet, it is torn from its frozen chains,
and precipitated, with tremendous plunge, uito the
abyss below. This mighty launch now floats like a
loity island on the ocean; till, driven southwards by
winds and currents it insensibly wastes and dissolves
away in Uie wide Atlantic.

Such I conceive, to be the real origin of the icy
mountains or tce&er^*, entirely similar in their forma-
tion to the ff/octerf which occur on the flanks of the
Alps and the Ihrrenees. They consist of a cleari
compact, and solid ice, which has the fine green tint
vergmg to blue, which ice or water, when very pure
and of a sufficient dei^h, always assumes. From
the cavities of these icebergs, the crews of the
northern whalers are accustomed, by means of a
hoM, or flexible tube of canvass, to fill their casks
easily with the finest and softest water. Of the
same species of ice, the fragments which are picked
up as they float on the surface of the ocean yield the
adventurous navigator the r >8t refreshing beverage.*

* The water wbieh flows IVom thoae Arctic glaclen beoomM thnwa
•■lin on Ow sppnwcbor winiar, «nd Ibmw along tbe coaM a thick ati»>

mmmtim

inclosed by precipitous
Lnd gelid water soon
year supplies an addi-
!r the lapse, perhaps, of
Bs rises at last to the
in, commensurate with
g cliffs. The melting
ard deposited on such
contributes to their
iie accidental holes or
structure compact and
inciple of destruction
itions. The ceaseless
wears and undermines
1, till, at length, by the
d weight, when it has
of a thousand, or even
from its frozen chains,
idous plunge, into the
lunch now floats like a
, driven southwards by
iy wastes and dissolves

I real origin of the icy
similar in their forma-
ar on the flanks of the
ey consist of a cleari
has the fine green tint
water, when very pure
vays assumes. From
;s, the crews of the
)med, by means of a
)8S, to All their casks
Dftest water. Of the
tents which are picked
of the ocean yield the
t refreshing beverage.*

.rctie glaclsn beoomM ftoua
u along Um eosM k thick iti^

WW^BtMBS^SBS^'i?ii^i^K^SSiu',ViSi-:mc-imii^,t-,,'^

Ic«bergi.^-{p. 28.]

. J

otnATi. 19

Tt vna long diiputed amongr »»»• learned, whether
the waters of the ocean are capable of beinir con-
gealcdj and many frivolous and absurd ?rimment>.
of course, were advanced to prove the impossibility
of the fact. But the question is now completely

mIS. I'll .i!"u ^^t '■'^^^•"« °f sea-water is estii
Wished both by observation and experiment. The
product, however, is an imperfect sort of ico, easily
distinguishable from the result of a regular crystaU
mation : it is porous, incompact, and imperfectly
diaphanous. It consists of spicular shootsT or thin
nakes, which detain within their interstices the
stronger brme; and its graniUar spongy texture has.
in fact, the appearance of congealed syrup, or what
the confectioners call water-ice. This saline ice can.
therefore, never yield pure water; yet, if the stronir
bnne imprisoned in it be first suffered to drain off
?.S w^V ,? ^^^ y,^' ^^^^ remains will melt into a
pSabie • " ' *" '^™° ""'*'' ""^ ^ deemed

To congeal sea-water of the ordinary saltness, or
tontaming nearly the thirtieth part of its weight of
aaline matter, it requires not an extreme cold : this
process takmg effect about the 27th degree on Fah-
renheit's scale, or only five degrees below the freez-
mg-pomt of fresh water. Within the Arctic circle,
therefore, the surface of the ocean being never much
warmer, is, m the decline of the summer, soon cooled
down to the limit at which congelation commences.
About the end of July, or the beginning of August.
a sheet of ice, perhaps an inch thick, is formed in the

s*.Mi!i";;,si?. '"• ^'^'^ ■» •"" •*""' ««"« «h« rt. M ton ft«

tJu'V^ ^y^ wmuked, tbat Uis raperfleial water nev iMltiii*

•irtythe««)Uii)«rtorit«weiihlof ealt; but untier ten ftSiellS^woI
wtB^. The Uablo bw ef tea-water waalbund to hold the IJSth put

C8

•9 oiniATi.

■|»c« of II singlfl night. The flroct now maintainii
Moendency, and ihoot* its increuing energy in all
direction*, till it has covered the whole extent of
those seas with a solid vault to the depth of sevi id
feet. Uut, on the return of spring, the penetrating
rays of the sun gradually melt or soften that icy
floor, and render its substance friable and easily dis>
ruptcd. The first strong wind, creating a swell in
the ocean, then breaks up the vast continent into
large fields, wliich are afterward shivered into frag«
ments by their mutual collision. This generally
happens early in the month of June; and a few
weeks are commonly sufficient to disperse and dis-
solve the floating ice. The soa is at lost open, for a
short and dubious interval, to the pursuits of the ad<
venturous mariner.

While icebergs are thus the slow growth of ages,
the fields or shoals of saline ice are annually formed
and destroyed. The ice generated from melted snow
is hard, pellucid, and often swells to enormous height
and dimensions. But the concretion of salt water
wants solidity, clearness, and strength, and never
rises to any very considerable thickness. It seldom
floats during more than part of the year ; thongh, in
some cold season, the scattered fragments may be
surprised by. the early frost, and preserved tUl the
following summer.

The whale-fishers enumerate several varieties of
the salt-water ice. A very wide expanse of it they
call ^JUld, and one of smaller dimensions ajlot.
When a field is dissevered by a subaqueous or grown
swell, it breaks into numerous pieces, seldom ex-
ceedin^ forty or fifty yards in diameter, which, taken
collectively, are termed a pack. Tliis pack again,
when of a broad shape, is called a patch ; and, when
much elongated, a stream. The packs of ice are
crowded and heaped together by violent winds ; but
they again separate and spread asunder in calm
weather. If a ship can sail freely through the float*

■MM

iWMt now maintaitui
loreaainff energy in all

the whole extent of
to the depth of itevi lal
springy, the penntratiag
elt or soften that icy

friable and easily dis>
id, creating a swell in
16 vast continent into
ixd shivered into tng-
ision. This generally

of 4une{ and a few
int to disperse and dis«
Da is at lust open, for a
the pursuits of the ad<

} slow growth of ages,
ae are annually formed
atod from melted snow
lU to enormous heigiit
ncretion of salt water
d strength, and never
I thickness. It seldom
)f the year ; though, in
red fragments maybe
and preserved tUl the

te several varieties of
ide expanse off it they
Her dimensions a floe.
a subaqueous or frown
us pieces, seldom ex-
diameter, which, taken
ck. This pack again,
ed a patch ; and, when
The packs of ice are
by violent winds ; but
read asunder in calm
:eely through the float*

CUMATB. tt

ingiriecesof io«, it is called dr^ft-iet: and the ice
itself is said to be Zoom or opm. When, from the
effect of abrasion, the larger blocks of ico are crum-
bled into minute fragments, this collection is ceiled
In-ath-ice. A portion of ice rising above the common
level is termed a hummock, being produced bv the
squeezing of one piece over anouicr. Tiiese lium-
mockp or protubcrunccs break the unifonn surface
of the ice, and give it a most diven<iflo(I and funtaHtic
appearance. They are numerous in the heavy pucks,
and along the edges of iee-Aelds, reaching to the
height of tliirty feet. The term sludge is applie<l bv
the sailors to the soft and incoherent crystals whicli
the frost forms when it Arst attacks the ruffled sur-
face of the ocean. As these increase, they have
some eflcct, like oil, to still the secondary waves ; but
they are prevented from coalescing into a continuous
sheet, by the agitation which still prevails; and they
form small discs, rounded by continual attrition,
and scarcely three inches in diameter, called pari'
cak€i. Sometimes these again unite into circular
pieces, perhaps a foot thick, and many yai'ls in cir-
cumference.

The fields and other collections cf iloating ice are
often discovered at a great distance, by that singular
appearance on the verge of the horizon, which the
Dutch seamen have tenned ice-blitik. It is ti stratum
of lucid whiteness, occasioned evidently by tlic irlare
of light reflected oblic^uely from the surface ui the
ice against the opposite atmosphere. This shining
streak, which looks always brightest in clear weather,
indicates, to the experienced navigator, 20 or 30
miles beyond he limit of direct vision, not only the
extent and figure, but even the quality of the ice.
The blink from packs of ice appears of a pure white,
while that which is occasioned by snow-fields has
some tinge of yellow.

The mountams of hard and perfect ice arc the
gradual production, perhaps, of many contune»i

I

33

CLmATE.

Along the western coast of Greenland, prolonjred
into Davis's Strait, they form an immense rampart,
which presents to the mariner a sublime spectacle,
resembling, at a distance, whole groups of churches,
mantling castles, or fleets under full sail. Every
year, but especially in hot seasons, they are partially
detached from their seats, and whelmed into the
deep sea. In Davis's Strait those icebergs appear
the most frequent : and about Disco Bay, where the
soundings exceed 300 fathoms, masses of such enor-
mous dimensions are met with, that the Dutch seamen
compare them to cities, and often bestow on them
the familiar names of Amsterdam or Haerlem. They
are carried towards the Atlantic by the current which
generally flows from the north-east, and after they
Teach the wanner water of the lower latitudes they
."apidly dissolve, and finally disappear, probably in
the space of a few months.

The blocks of fresh-water ice appear black as they
float; but show a fine emerald or beryl hue when
brought up on the deck. Though perfectly transpa-
rent like crystal, they sometimes enclose threads or
streamlets of air-bubbles, extricated in the act of
congelation. This pure ice, being only a fifteenth
part lighter than fresh water, must consequently
project about one-tenth as it swims on the sea. An
iceberg of 2000 feet in height would therefore, after
it floated, still rise 200 feet above the surface of the
water. Such, perhaps, may be considered as nearly
the extreme dimensions. Those mountains of ice
may even acquire more elevation at a distance from
land, both from the snow which falls on them, and
from the copious vapours which precipitate and con-
geal on their surface. But in general they are carried
forward by the current which sets from the north-
east into the Atlantic, where, bathed in a warmer
fluid, they rapidly waste and dissolve. It may be
shown by experiment, that if the water in which
they float had only the temperature of 42o, the mass

1

reenland, prolonged
a immense rampart,
a sublime spectacle,
groups of churches,
er full sail. Every
18, they are partially
I whelmed into the
)se icebergs appear
isco Bay, where the
lasses of such enor-
at the Dutch seamen
en bestow on them
or Haerlem. They
)y the current which
east, and after they
ower latitudes they
ippear, probably in

ippear black as they
or beryl hue when
1 perfectly transpa-
enclose threads or
ited in the act of
ig only a fifteenth
nust consequently
ns on the sea. An
uld therefore, after
the surface of the
msidered as nearly
mountains of ice
at a distance from
Palls on them, and
recipitate and con-
ral they are carried
s from the north-
thed in a warmer
solve. It may be
e water in which
e of 420, the mass

CLIMATE.

33

of ice would lose the thickness of an inch every
hour, or two feet in a day. Supposing the surface
of the sea to be at 52^, the daily diminution of thick-
ness would be doubled, and would therefore amount
to four feet. An iceberg having 600 ffet of total
elevation would hence, on this probable estimate,
require 150 days for its dissolution. But the melting
of the ice would be greatly accelerated if the mass
were impelled through the water by the action o£*
winds. A velocity oi only a mile in an hour would
triple the ordinary effect. Hence, though large
bodies of ice are often found near the banks of New-
foundland, they seldom advance farther, or pass
beyond the 48th degree of latitude. Within the
Arctic regions those stupendous blocks remain, by
their mere inertia, so fixed on the water, as com-
monly to serve for the mooring of vessels employed
in the whale-fishery. In such cases, however, it is a
necessary precaution to lengthen the cables, and ride
at some distance from the frozen cliff; because the
fragments of ice, which the seamen term calves, are
frequently detached from the under part of the mass,
and, darting upwards, acquire such a velocity in
their ascent, that they wotdd infallibly strike holes
into the ship's bottom.

The ice produced from salt water is whitish, po-
rous, and dmost opaque. It is so dense, from the
quantity of strong brine enclosed in its substance,
that, when floating m the sea, it projects only one-
fiftieth part above the surface. The porous saljne
ice has a variable thickness, yet seldom exceeding
six feet. But this saline ice which, during the
greater part of the year covers the Arctic seas, is
annually formed and destroyed ; a small portion of
it only, and at certain seasons, escaping tne general
wreck. The thaw commonly lasts about three
months ; and during that time the heat of the solar
rays, which, though oblique, yet act with unceasing
enetgy, whether applied directly or through the inter*

m

34

CLIMATE.

vention of the air oi the water, is sufficient for the
dissolution of all the ice produced in the course of
the autumn, the winter, and the spring. It may be
proved by experiment that, under the Pole itself, the
power of the sun at the solstice could, in the space
of a week, melt a stratum of five inches of ice. We
may hence fairly compute the annual effect to be
sufficient for thawing to the depth of forty inches.
It should likewise be observed, that, owing to the
pre vaihng haziness of the atmosphere in the northern
latitudes, those singular cold emanations which
always dart from an azure sky, and in the more tem-
perate climates diminish the calorific action of the
sun often by one-fifth part, can scarcely exist. On
this account, perhaps the estimate of the annual de-
struction of Polar ice may be swelled to a thickness
of four feet,

As heat is absorbed in the process of thawing, so
It 18 again evolved in the act of congelation. The
annual formation and destruction of ice withm th«
Arctic circle, is hence a beautiful provision of Nature
for mitigating the excessive inequality of tempera-
ture. Had only dry land been there opposed to the
sun, it would have been absolutely scorched by his
mcessant beams in summ. r, and pinched in the dark-
ness of winter by the most intense and penetrating
cold. None of the animal or vegetable tribes could
have at all supported such extremes. But in the ac-
tual arrangement, the surplus heat of summer is
spent in melting away the ice ; and its deficiency in
winter is partly supplied by the influence of the pro-
gress of congelation. As long as ice remains to thaw
or water to freeze, the temperature of the atmos-
phere can never vary beyond certain limits. Such
IS the harmony of the system ; and all experience
and observation forbid us to believe it to be subject
to any radical change. Some years may chance to
form more ice than others, or to melt more away t
out It were idle to expect any thina like a general or

iiimiMiw

__^

CLIMATE.

80

r, is sufficient for the
need in the course of
iie spring. It may be
der the Pole itself, the
ce could, in the space
ve inches of ice. We
D annual effect to be
iepth of forty inches.
3d, that, owing to the
•sphere in the northern
d emanations which
', and in the more tem-
salorific action of the
a scarcely exist. On
late of the annual de-
swelled to a thickness

rocess of thawing, so
of congelation. The
ion of ice within th«
il provision of Nature
lequality of tempera-
there opposed to the
utely scorched by his
d pinched in the dark-
ense and penetrating
iregetable tribes could
emes. But in the ac-
heat of summer is
and its deficiency in
influence of the pro-
s ice remains to thaw
rature of the atmos-
;ertain limits. Such
; and all experience
ieve it to be subject
years may chance to
o melt more awayt
lins like a general or

permanent disruption of the facial crust which binds
the regions of the north. Even were this ice once
removed, a similar collection woidd soon succeed,
since it is always the effect, and not the cause, of the
disposition of tne atmosphere, which it really serves
to temper. We should be guilty of the most vicious
reasoning in a circle, if we maintained that ice first
cooled the air, and that this cold air next increased
the fields of ice.

^ But, whatever maybe the vicissitudes of the Polar
ice, they cannot, in any sensible manner, affect the
climates of the lower latitudes. The whole circum-
jacent space where frost holds his reign, bears a very
small proportion to the surface of the northern
hemisphere. Reckoning from the parallel of sixty
degrees, it would not exceed the eighth part ; but,
since the gelid region hardly extends below the lati-
tude of seventy-five degrees, it may be stated at the
thirty-second part of the hemisphere. On the sup-
position, therefore, that the Arctic cold were ^1
transferred and infused into the atmosphere of the
south, it could yet produce no visible alteration of
climate.

Even if we imagined with Mr. Scoresby, that,
during the years 1816 and 1817, two thousand square
leagues of ice have disappeared in the Greenland
seas between the parallels of seventy-four and eighty
degrees, this extent would still scarcely exceed half
the surface of Ireland. It may be calculated, that
the loss of heat on our globe, occasioned by a total
eclipse of the sun, reckoning this only equivalent to
a complete obsciutition for the space of a single hour, is
as much as would be absorbed by the thawing of a cir-
cle of ice 500 miles in diameter, and 130 feet thick.
This quantity surpasses at least sixty times the ice-
fields dispersed from Greenland, allowing them the
mean thickness of thirty feet ; and yet the tempera-
ture of the air is never depressed more than a degree
or two during the continuance of any solar edipse.

86

CUMATK.

But the idea is quite chimerical, that any winds
could ti ver transport the Polar influence to our shores.
It may be proved, from the results of accurate ex-
periment, that a ciurent of air flowing over a warmei
surface, whether of land or water, becomes, in the
«pace of an hour, penetrated with the same temps-
rature through a stratum of eighty feet; though the
jmit of actual contact, or of mutual attrition, is con-
Sned to a surface not exceeding the 500th part of an
Inch in thickness. If we assign to it the height of
1 mile, wliich is a most ample allowance, it would
ose all its sharpness, and acquire the standard heat
n the course of sixty-six hours. Admitting this
rind to travel at the rate even of twenty miles each
lour, it would consequently spend all its frigorific
Action in a tract of 1380 miles. The gales from the
lemotest north must thus discharge their store of
itold into the German Sea or the Atlantic Ocean. Nor
could such impressions, though continued through a
course of ages, have the smallest power to chill the
superficial water ; for the moment any portion of this
was cooled, it would, from its increased density, sink
down into the vast abyss. The surface would not
be affscted till after the cooling had, in its progress,
pervaded the whole mass from the bottom upwards.
According to the calculations of Laplace, founded on
a comparison of the theory of tides with actual ob.
servation, the mean depth of the ocean exceeds ten
English miles. Supposmg, therefore, a wind blowing
from some northerly point, and ten degrees colder
than the water, were to sweep over the Atlantic six
months every year, at the rate of fifteen miles an
hour, it would take 220 years to cool that vast body
of water only a single degree.

Some persons have imagined that the mountains
or islands of ice, which are occasionally drifted into
the Atlantic Ocean, must be sufllcient, by their frigo-
rific influence, to modify the character of our climate.
One of the first who advanced that opinion was dts

B.

nerica], that any winds
influence to our shores,
results of accurate ex-
■ flowing over a wannei
water, becomes, in the
with the same temp:-
iighty feet; though the
mutual attrition, is con-
ng the 500th part of an
ign to it the height of
lie allowance, it would
|uire the standard heat
lours. Admitting this
1 of twenty miles each
spend all its frigorific
). The gales from the
scharge their store of
e Atlantic Ocean. Nor
rh continued through a
lest power to chill the
lent any portion of this
increased density, sink
rhe surface wotdd not
ig had, in its progress,
n the bottom upwards,
uf Laplace, founded on
r tides with actual ob>
the ocean exceeds ten
jrefore, a wind blowing
nd ten degrees colder
) over the Atlantic six
te of fifteen miles an
to cool that vast body

id that the mountains
casionally drifted into
ifficient, by their frigo*
aracter of our climate.
1 that opinion was dM

OLDIATX. tr

ingenious Richard Bradley, fellow of the Royal So-
ciety, and professor of botany in the university of
Cambridge. In "A Survey of the Ancient Hus-
bandry and Gardeninio:, collected from the Greek and
Roman Writers," printed in octavo at London in
17S6, he introduces the following remarkable pas-
sage:—

" I the rather mention the case of winds becoming
cold by mixinif with the effluvia of snow or ice, be-
cause I have made some remarks upon the tempest-
nous weather, which often happens about the end of
May, or in June, which has in all my observations
been brought in by westerly winds ; and again, I as
surely find, that at such times large islands of ice and
snow are passing to the southward in the Western
Ocean, as I have been informed by several captains
of ships that were then coming from our plantations
to England. Some of these i^ands are so large as
to measure sixty miles in length, and jrielding so
great a vapour, that for a day's voyage on one side of
them, the weather has been so hazy that the mari-
ners could not discover what they were ; and this
was accompanied with so much cold, that they ima-
gined they tiad mistaken in their accounts, and got
several degrees too far towards the north ; but a day
or two explained the matter, and gave them an op-
portunity of surveying what they had been so much
Biirprised at. Now, considering the extraordinary
heat of the sun at the season these appear, the va-
pour must be very considerable that rises from them ;
and it is no wonaer then, that, as it expands itself, it
presses the air with violence enough to cause tem-
pests and carry cold along witli it."

But a little reflection will convince us that such
remote influence on our climate must be quite insig-
nificant. At a very wide estimation, the surface
of ice exposed to the winds could never exceed the
thousandth part of the whole expanse of the Atlantic
Ocean : consequently the general temperature of the
D

88

CLIMATE.

air would not be altered the fortieth part of a degree.
Nor could this minute impression be wafted to our
shores, being invariably spent in the length of the
voyage. The opinion which Mr. Bradley entertained
near a hundred years ago might have been tolerated
m the infancy of physicnl science 5 but that the same
notion should be revived, and proclaimed with con-
fidence at this day, may well excite surprise.

These reasonings, which suggested themselves on
the occasion of the sailing of the first expedition sent
by government to explore the Arctic seas, have been
hingul-u-ly confirmed by tLa results of the late
danng voyages. Captam Parry, by the most vigi .
lant exertions, indeed, succeeded, during the brief
interval of an open season, to advance from Baflin's
Bay, by Lancaster Sound, above 400 miles west-
ward, through floatuig masses of ice, on the pa-
rallel of 75 degrees; but this distance is probably
not the third part of the whole space between the
Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. All the subsequent at-
tempts of that able navigator to penetrate any farther
in the same direction have proved unsuccessful ; and
his last arduous scheme of reaching the Pole, by
dragging boats over an expanse of rough and broken
ice, utterly failed. The utmost labour and incited
exertions of the crews scarcely enabled him to pro-
ceed, in 1827, three degrees northward from Spitz-
bergen, and attain the latitude of 82° 45', not far be-
yond the usual resort of the Greenland whalers.
Captain Weddell, without the stimulant of national
reward, had, four years before, the resolution to
penetrate to a very great height in the opposite hemi-
sphere, which is always considered colder and less
accessible than the northern, having advanced to the
latitude of 74° 15' in an open sea.

On the hypothesis that the quantities of ice which
encumber the Arctic seas have been accumulating
for a long succession of years, it is assumed as a
fact that thniughout Europe a milder and more

^5?^^.■.■^c^>i*fs^■/:v^:'.■^'s!»!■,'i

u-*ri,^^i^^j^ii^}im'

tieth part of a degree.
ion be wafted to our
in the length of the
r. Dradlcy entertained
It have been tolerated
ice; but that the same
proclaimed with con-
xcite surprise,
rgested themselves on
le first expedition sent
Arctic seas, have been
results of the late
y, by the most vigi.
led, during the brief
advance from Baffin's
ove 400 miles west-
8 of ice, on the pa-
distance is probably
e space between the
AH the subsequent at-
penetrate any fartlier
ed unsuccessful ; and
caching the Pole, by
e of rough and broken
}t labour and incited
r enabled him to pro-
)rthward from Spitz-
of 83° 45', not far be-
Greenland whalers,
stimulant of national
"e, the resolution to
in the opposite hemi-
ered colder and less
ving advanced to the
ia.

antities of ice which

I been accumulating

it is assumed as a

a milder and more

CLIMATi:. 99

genial climate had formerly prevailed. A closer in-
spection of the details, however, will show this sup-
position to be destitute of any solid support. One
hears continual complaints, indeed, of tlie altered
condition of the seasons, especially from elderly per-
sons, wliosc bodily frame has become more suscepti-
ble to the impressions of cold ; but similar lamenta-
tions have been repeated by the poets and the vulgar
from the earliest times. If we listened implicitly to
such querulous declaimers, we sliould believe that
nature has spent all her fires, and is ha tening fast
into decay. Immense forests, it is said, anciently
clothed the highest tracts of this island and other
northern countries, where scarcely a tree can now
be made to grow. The period of vintage was in
former ages several weeks earlier in France than at
present; vineyards were planted during the time of
the Romans in various parts of the south of England,
where at this day even hops are raised with diffi-
culty ; and the sides of many hills in Scotland bear
evident traces of the plough, which have been long
since abandoned irretrievably to the dusky heath.

But, in answer to such allegations, it may be ob-
served, that a patch of wood will not thrive in cold
situations, merely for want of the shelter which is
afforded by extensive plantations. In Sweden and
Norway, which are mostly covered with natu:.il
forests, it has become an object ofpolice to prevent
their indiscriminate destruction. The timber m those
sylvan countries is cut at stated periods of its growth,
and in detached portions ; the vacant spaces being
left as niurseries, embosomed amid an expanse of t^
trees. Some places in Sweden, where the forests
have been accidentally destroyed by fire, present the
image of sterility and of wide desolation.

It is probable that the vines grown in ancient times
were coarser and hardier plants than those which
are now cultivated. A similar observation extends
to all the products of gardening. A succession of

J

40

CtlMATI.

diligent culture softens the character of the Tcffeta-
We tnbes, and renders them more delicate, while it
heiffhtens the flavour of their fruit. The Roman
soldiers stationed in Britain would naturally jwfer
wine, their accustomed beverage, however harsh and
poor, to the cenisia, or unpalatable ale brewed bv
the rude arts of the natives.

The marks of tillage left on our northern hills
prove only the wretched state of agriculture at a re-
mote period. For want of a proper system of rota-
tion, and the due application of manure, the starving
tenantry were then tempted to tear up with the plough
every virgin spot thoy could find, and, after extract-
mgfrom it a pitiful crop or two of oats, to abandon
It to a lasting sterility. The cattle in those days,
having no sort of provender through the winter but
dry straw, were quite feeble and exhausted in the
spring. The soil, too, was very stiff, from want
of repeated and seasonable tillage. Under such cir-
cumstances, it affords no proof of any great heat,
that the slothful peasants, oppressed with a load of
clothes, usually began their operations in the field
before sunrise, while preparing the ground for the re-
ception of the barley-seed.

It is very difficult to ascertain the precise condi-
tion of the weather in distant a^es. TTie thermome-
ter was not invented till 1590, by the celebrated
Sanctorio; nor was that valuable instrument re.
duced to a correct standard before the year 1784, by
the skill of Fahrenheit. Wo have hence no observa-
tions of temperature which go farther back than a
century. Prior to this period, we must glean our in-
formation from tho loose and scanty notices which
are scattered through the old chronicles relative to
the state of the han'est, the quality of the vintage,
or the endurance of frost and snow in the winter.
Great allowance, however, should be made for tho
■Pi?V • f^^^geration and the 'ove of the marvellous
Which infect all those rude historical monuments.

!!>-^?!9?i«wiS5^'^,5sat«a53j.-j^v^^^^^^

'&vr.au4^t-ftL£ '-jji

CLIMATE.

41

iharactcr of the vc^eta-
more delicate, while it

eir fruit. The Roman
would naturally prefer

rape, however harsh and

alatable ale brewed by

I on our northern hills
e of agfriculture at a re-
proper system of rota-
of manure, the starving
) tear up with the plough
find, and, after extract-
wo of oats, to abandon
e cattle in those days,
through the winter but
and exhausted in the
very stiff, from want
Uane. Under such cir-
oof of any great heat,
)pres8cd with a load of
operations in the field
ig the ground for the re-
tain the precise condi-
ajres. The thermome-
>90, by the celebrated
iluable instnnnent re-
efore the year 1784, by
have hence no observa-
o farther back than a
I, we must glean our in-
scanty notices which
chronicles relative to
quality of the vintage,
;1 snow in the winter,
lould be made for tho
'oveof the marvellous
torical monuments.

♦^ .«' ancing over the incidental notices of the state
c. tne weather, it is obvious that no material change
has taken place fo- the last thousand years in the
chmate of Europe; but we may conjecture that it
hiis gradually acquired rather a milder character; at
least Its excessive severity appears on tho whole to
be of rarer occurrence. The weather seems not to
atrect any precise course of succession, although
two or more years of remarkable heat or cold often
follow consecutively ; yet there can be no doubt, that
series of atmospheric changes, however complicated
and perplexing, are as determinate in their nature as
the revolutions of the celestial bodies. When the
science of meteorology is more advanced, we sliall,
perhaps, by discovering a glimpse of those vast
cycles, which result from the varied aspects of the
sun combined with the feebler inlliience of the moon,
be at length enabled to predict with some degree of
probability, the condition of future seasons. The in-
termediale period of nine years, or the semi-revolu-
tion nearly of the lunar nodes and apogee, proposed
by Toaldo, seems not to be altogether destitute of
foundation. Thus, of the years remarkably cold,
1622 was succeeded, after the interval of four periods
or 36 years, by 1658, whose severity lasted through
the followng year. The same interval brings us to
1695, and five periods more extend to 1740,— a very fa-
mous cold year ; three periods now com- ) down to 1767
nme years more to 1776, and eighteen years more to
1794, the cold continuing through 1795. Of the hot
years it may bo observed, that four periods of nine
years extend from 1616 to 1662, and three such again
to 1679. From 1701 to 1718 there was an intervaJ of
seventeen years, or very neariy two periods, while
three periods reach to 1746, another period to 1754
and one more falls on 1763 ; and from 1779 to 1788,
there are just nine years. The year 1818 would
therefore correspond to 1701, 1719, and 174G, and
consequently very nearly to 1718. Again, the years

1/ ^

42

CLIMATE.

1784, 1793, 1809, and 1811, at the intervals of succes*
Bive periods, were all of them romnrkably warm. A
cycle of 64 years, iuciuding therefore six of thcie
nubordinato [leriods, has lately been proposed with
murh coiifldeiicfi, but apparently on slender groumls.

If the climate had undcrRono any real change in
the more temperate parts of Europe, a corres|M)nding
alteration, witii very distinct features, must inevitably
have taken place in the Arctic regions. But a dispas-
sionate inquiry discovers no circumstances whicn at
all clearly point at such a conclusion. On this head
we may readily satisfy ourselves, by a short retro-
spect of the pnncipal facts wlilch have been recorded
by voyagers.

Greenland, in its position and general outline, ap-
pears to resemble the vast promontory of South Ame-
rica. Froin Cape I'arowell, a small island, divided
from the shore by a narrow inlet called Staaten
Hoek, in the latitude of 60°, it stretches, in a north-
westerly direction, about 800 miles to Cape Desola-
tion, and then nearly northward to Good Haven, in
latitude 65°, where it inclines nearly a point towards
the east, as far as the island of Disco, which occupies
a spa'-^uus bay, between the latitudes of 67° and 71°,
in Davis's Strait. Thence the continent extends
almost due north, beyond the latitude of 76°, till it is
lost in the recesses of Baffin's Bay. Or the other
side, Greonland stretches about north-noit'i-east, 300
miles, but with a great smuosity, till nearly op-
posite to Iceland, in the latitude of 64°, and now
advances almost north-east to the latitude of 76°,
when, suddeidy bending to the nortli, it holds this di-
rection beyond Spitzbergen and the latitude of 80°.
Tlie coast is every where bold and rocky, like that
of Norway ; and the interior of the country consists
of clustering lofty mountains, covered with eternal
snows. But the western side, which fonns Davis's
Strait, is indented with numerous bights, creeks, and
fiords or firths, which, for the space of two or three
muuthti each year, look verdout, oiid yield lolerai>le

:,aS!mtm.mmms'A/i>-iiiSi(»^}a(-mMi£^>^*S.

le intervals of succes-
omnrkably warm. A
lereforc six of these
r boon proposed with
y on slender grounds.

0 any real change In
irope, a corre8])onding
tures, must inevitably
!ginn8. But a disnas-
rciiniHtanccs whion at
luaion. On this head
vi'R, by a short retro-
ch have been recorded

d general outline, ap-
ontoiy of South Ame-
small island, divided
inlet called Staaten
stretches, in a north-
liles to Cape Desola-
d to Good Haven, in
learly a point towards
Disco, which occupies
titude8of67°and71o,
le continent extends
itilude of 76°, till it is

1 Hay. Or the other
; north-noi'v Veast, 300
osity, till nearly op-
ude of 64°, and now
) the latitude of 76°,
nortli, it holds this di<
d the latitude of 80°.

and rocky, like that
f the country consists

covered with eternal
, which fonns Davis's
us bights, creeks, and
pace of two or three
t, dUid yield tolerable

OinATE. 4t

pMtnrage. The eastern shore, again, which pro-
perly l)ounds the Greenland s«!iMJ, can nircly bo ap-
proached by the whalers, as the accumulated stream
of ice, which in summer is constantly drifting from
the north-east, creates a formidable barrier. The
position of this icy boundary, thougli nearly parallel
to the land, is not absolutely fixed, but varies witliio
certain limits in different years. The late survey
by Mr. Scoresby was therefore not very satisfactory.
In Davis's Strait, the whalers generally resort to
Disco Bay, or push farther north ; sometimes as far
as the latitude of 76°, to the variable margin of the
great icy continent. On the other side of Green-
land, about the meridian of eight degrees east from
Greenwich, the ice, in warm seasons, retifes to the
latitude of 80°, beyond Hakluyt's Headland, at the
extremity of Spitzbergen ; while, at other times, it
advances as far south on the same line as the lati-
tude of 70°, enveloping the whole of that island, but
forming below it a wide bay, called the Whal^her's
Bight, on the parallel of Bear Island. The former
are called open, and the latter dote seasons. In open
seasons, the ships employed in these fisheries find a
channel from 20 to 60 leagues wide, through which
they shoot forward along the shores of Spitzbergen,
till they reach the latitude of 78° or 79°, where the
whales are most abundant. The chase of these ani-
mals, in the Greenland seas at least, seldom lasts
above two months, commencing generally at the end
of April, and terminating with June, when they usu
ally disappear, and the prevalence of dense fogs ren-
ders the navigation very dangerous. In Davis's
Strait, the fishery continues often for two, or even
three montlis longer. Mr. Scoresby thinks it were
better if our Greenland ships, like the Dutch and
other foreigners, began their voyage somewhat later
than has become the practice. In close seasons, tho
hardy navigator is obliged, with imminb:.>t peril and
hazard, to impcil his ship, by boring xiiidtr a press

44

CMIUTI.

of sail, and usisted by rop«i and aawi, through the
drift-ice which bordcni tJin ffrcat barrier, endeavouring
to follow every vein of water that runir nearly in the
requiri'.l direction. If he fail in this attempt, ho murt
forego the chance of a profitable voyage, and content
himself with the humbler pursuit of catching seals.

The space over which the line of ice may bo sup-
posed to oscillate in the Greenland seas, extends 1400
niih'N from Cape Farewell to aoo miles beyond Jan
Mayen's IslaiMi, which it includes, and has a mean
breadth of about 80 miles. Such is the extent of
the mere surplus ice formed and dissolved from year
to year, — exceeding the whole surface of Great Dri-
tain. Hence the miantity melted or liberated during
the years 1816 and 1817 l)ore no very considerable
pro[)orlioii to the ordinary fluctuating mass. It id
therefore evident, that whatever may be the casual
variations of the frozen expanse, no niiffhty alteration
has yet taken place in the climate and condition of
the Arctic i^as.

If we compare the Journals of former navigators,
we shall be convinced that all the changes of tlio
Polar ice are periodical, and are agtdn repeated at
no very distant intervals of time. Wo may pass over
the pretensionn of some Dutch captains, who alleged
that they had been carried by wmds or currents as
far north as the latitude of 88°, or e Vt. ii that of 89° 40*,
and conscqiiently only twenty miles from the Pole ;
since their estimate, at all times rude, from observa-
tions w ''h the fore-staff, was then founded on mere
dead reckoning after a contin '.ation of foggy weather.
Davis, in 1587, ascended, n the strait which de-
servedly bears his name, to the latitude of 78° la*,
where he found the variation of the compass to be
88° west, or nearly the same as at present. In 1616,
Baffin advanced, in the same quarter, as high as the
latitude of 78 decrees. Hudson had, nine years
before, penetrated m the Greenland seas to the lati-
tude of 81°, and tioen supposed laud as high as that

T

OtniATI.

ind mws, throoffh the
t barrier, endnavoiiring
hut ninir nearly in the
i this Httcmpt, lio must
1p voyiisrc 1111(1 content
luit of catcliinir senla.
ne of ice may bo «up-
»nil neas, oxtcndn 1400
iW miles beyond Jan
udcB, and haa a mean
inch is tiie extent of
1(1 dissolved from year
surface of Great Hri-
ted or liberated during
no very considerable
ictuating mass. It id
er may be the cacual
B, no mighty alteration
late ana condition of

of former navigators,
1 the changes of tlio
ore agiiin repeated at
e. Wo may pass over
captains, who alleged
wmds or currents as
9rev>.iithatof89<'40',
miles from the Pole ;
38 rude, from observa-
:hcn founded on mere
tion of fojfgy weather,
the strait which de<
le latitude of Ta** la*,
if the compass to be
9 at present. In 1616,
uarter, as high as the
Ison had, nine years
iland seas to the lati-
i laud as high as that

48

of 88° lying to the northeast of Spitibcrgen. Out
It IS raoitifying to remark how little progress has
buen made iii geographical discovery sinco Uioso
early and intrepid adventurers explored the Arctic
regions with their humble barks, which seldom ex-
cecded iho size of fifty tons. Wo must pass over
?Ji^Ti ,"'^ '"tcrval to obtain aut.-entic iiilomiation.
m 751, Captiiin M'CiUIam, whoi.. Mr. Harrington
calls a scientific seaman, sailed without obstruction
from I lakhiyt'H Headland as high as the latitude of
HJ4 , where ho found an open sea ; and the weather
being fine, notJmig hindered him from proceedinir
farther, but his resiwiwibility to its owners for the
safety of tho ship. Captain Wilson, about the end
pi Juno, 17M, having traversed floating ice from tho
latitude of 74» to 81", at last found the seaquito clear
as far as ho could descry; and he advanced to the
atitude of 83°, till, not meeting with any whales, and
iHiginmng to apprehend some danger, ho shaped back
lus course. At this vry Ume, Captain Guy, after four
days of foggy weather, was likewise earned to tho
same point. Tlie Polar seas at this period must
indeed have been remarkably open ; for -' of the
most extraordinary and best-authenticate. .oyaires
was performed in 1754 by Mr. Stephens, a very skil-
ful and accurate observer, whose testimony is put
beyond all manner of doubt by the cool judgment of
the late astronomer-royal. Dr. Maskelyne. This
navigator informed him, that about the end of May.
ho was dnven off Spitzhcrgen by a southerly wind
which blew for several days, till ho had readied tho
latitude of 844°; and that in the whole of this run
he met with httlc ico and no drift-wood, and !id not
find the cold to be anywise excessive. In different
Bubseoucnt years, the Greenland whalers have ad-
vancod to the latitude of 8 1 or 83 degrees. 1'his was
accomplished even in 1766; although, according to
lierguelin, the whole space between Iceland and tho
opposite coast was then frozen over. The year

46

ClIMATE.

1773, or tliat in which Captain Phipps performed h's
voyage, was still more favourable for approaching
towards the North Pole. In 1806, the elder Mr.
Scoresby ascended to the latitude of 81° 60'; but in
the following year he could not proceed farther than
the parallel of 78 J°. In 1811, the higher latitudes
were again accessible; and, after a short interval,
the summers of 1816, 1816, and 1817 are represented
as open seasons; though none of the whalers have
now penetrated so far into the north as had been done
in many former years, and particularly in 1754.

In tliis plain statement, one can perceive no de-
cided symptoms of any general or progressive ten-
dency towards a dissolution of the Polar ice. The
frozen border alters its position from one year to
another, and probably returns again to the same
limits after certain short periods of time. Such fluc-
tuations are analogous to the incessant changes which
alTect the state of the weather in the more temperate
regions. The complex system of winds moulds the
climate, and varies the features of the seasons over
the globe. It is a common remark of those who fre-
quent the Polar seas, that they find always the least
obstruction from ice when the preceding winter has
been very severe in the more southern latitudes. In
the year 1766, though the frost had proved most in-
tense through the rest of Europe, the whalers reached
a high latitude ; and, not to multiply instances, the
three seasons preceding 1818, reckoned very open,
succeeded to winters notoriously cold and protracted.
Nor is it difficult to discern the reason of tWs seeming
paradox ; for our severe winters are occasioned by
the prevalence of northerly winds, which must arrive
at the Polar seas from the south, and consequently
transport so much warmth to them as may check the
usual rigour of the frost.

The main argument, however, brought to prove the
deterioration of the Arctic climate, is drawn from the
supposed existence of a colony, which had once

fc«te%-ss«tri;fft*v»»*«»sM:»«*-fiais^

s.

in Phipps performed h>9
urable for approaching
In 1806, the elder Mr.
itudeof 81°50'; but in
lot proceed farther than
1, the higher latitudes
after a short interval,
lid 1817 are represented
le of the whalers have
! north as had been done
irticularly in 1754.
e can perceive no de-
ral or progressive ten-
3f the Polar ice. The
tion from one year to
ns again to the same
ids of time. Such fluc-
ncessant changes which
T in the more temperate
m of winds moulds the
es of the seasons over
mark of those who fre-
y find always the least
B preceding winter has
southern latitudes. In
5t had proved most in-
ipe, the whalers reached
multiply instances, the
8, reckoned very open,
sly cold and protracted,
reason of this seeming
era are occasioned by
inds, which must arrive
)uth, and consequently
them as may check the

ST, brought to prove the
nate, is drawn from the
lony, which had onca

CUMATK.

47

flourished on the eastern coast of Greenland, but has.
for several centuries, be-^ome extinct; all access to
Its remains being at length completely barred bvthe
accumulation o? ice. This tale, which seems to
have owed its birth to Torfteus, the historian of Nor-
way, has obtained very general credence. Yet, a
sober examination of the early &^fls, or northern
chronicles, so full of wonder and fable, will show
mat there :, no solid reason for entertaining such a
notion, or believing that the first settlement of Green-
land was made on the east side of the continent
Ihe whole contexture of the original narrative indi-
cates the very opposite conclusion.

After the North had ceased to send forth her nu-
merous swarms upon the fertile provinces of the
Koman empire, the Scandinavian nations, prompted
by their peciOiai situation, betook themselves to a
Jife of maritime adventure. Those bold and hardv
pirates visited every sea, and pillaged, during a
course of nearly three hundred years, all the coasts
Of Europe, from the extremity of Scotland to the
shores of Sicily. During the first half of the ninth
o^^ «7' ?^^^ conquered the Orkneys, the Shetland
ana Western Isles— obtained possession of Ireland
—plundered England and France— and extended their
ravages to Italy. In 876, the Northmen, or Nor-
mands, extorted from the weakness of the French
king the cession of the fine province of Neustria.
where they quietly settled; while another party
01 these fierce invaders had occupied the fertUe
''"n ♦ *v *'*?''°"'^ on the south side of the Baltic.

Hut the visits of those intrepid navigators were not
confined to the richer countries of the south. Thev
carried ravens with them, for the purpose of discover-
ing distant land, by the direction of the flight of those
powerful and sagacious birds. In 861, Nadodd, a
roving pirate, in one of his voyages in the northern
seas, happened to be cast away on an island which he
caued bnowland. ITiree years afterward, Gardar and

48

CLIMATE.

Flocke, two Swedes, visited it ; and having found a
great auantity of drift-ice collected on the north side
of it, tliey gave it the name of Iceland, which it still
bears. But in 874, Ingolf and Leif, two famous Nor-
wegian adventurers, carried a colony to this inhospi-
table rerion, the latter having enriched it with tne
booty which he had ravaged from England. Other
emigrants, whom the disorders of the times drove
successively from home, resorted in crowds to the
new settlement, which became very considerable in
the space of a few years.

Iceland :' ■"•If was able, after the progress of about a
century, t -nrt out likewise her colonies. Thor-
wald, a pu . _ and opulent Norwegian chief, who had
been lately banished thither from the court for some
murder committed by liim, soon died in exile, leaving
his wealth and liis restless spirit to bis son Eric
Raude, or the Red. This youth, actuated by «he same
vengeful passions, killed one of his neighbours in a
fight, and was obliged to withdraw himself from Ice-
land for the space of tljree years. In 982, Eric
sailed in quest of adventiub -;d discovery. In-
structed by the reports oi li s '^ T^^vigators, he
directed his course towards '. a* >west; and,
after a quick run, he descried o .> v mountains,
the one covered with snow and ..> ouiier cased with
ice, which he called Huitaerken and Blaaserken, or
the White Shirt and the Blue Shirt, and soon reached
a headland which lie doubled; and having entered a
spacious creek, he spent the winter on a pleasant
adjacent island. In the followuig season, pursuing
his discoveries, he explored the continent, and was
delighted with the freshness and verdure of its coast.
Contrasting this new country with the dark rocks of
Iceland, he bestowed on it the flattering appellation
of Greenland ; and, on his return, invited settlers to
join him, by circulating tlte most glowing and exag-
gerated descriptions. With twenty-five vessels he
Bailed back again ; but of these only fourteen reached

*«»»S6s»f«JBS«JgifS.>W<i.AS'j>Ji«(^SiSi

otnuTS.

49

it ; and having found a
lected on the north side
f Iceland, which it still
1 Leif, two famous Nor-
colony to this inhospi-
I enriched it with the
from England. Other
jrs of the times drove
3rte(> in crowds to the
le very considerable in

r the progress of about a
e her colonies. Thor-
>rwegian chief, who had
From the court for some
on died in exile, leaving
spirit to bis son Eric
th, actuated by <he same
of his neighbours in a
draw himself from Ice-
e yearsy In 982, Eric
■fa ';d discovery. In-
ii)i »* r^ivigators, he
i ! fi' -west; and,
d o . ' y mountains,
nd ... o-iicr cased with
•ken and Blaaserken, or
Shirt, and soon reached
I ; and having entered a
e winter on a pleasant
)wing season, pursuing
the continent, and was
and verdure of its coast.
f with the dark rocks of
he flattering appellation
etum, invited settlers to
nost glowing and exag-
twenty-five vessels he
se only fourteen reached

their destination. This colony was soon augmented,
by the arrival cf other adventurers, not only from
Iceland, but from the Orkneys and other islands
planted by the Norwegians. In the year 999, Leif,
a son of Eric Raude, having visited the court of
Norway, was induced, by the zealous and earnest
solicitation of King Olaf Tryggeson, to embrace the
Christian faith ; and, carrying with him some monks,
he found, through their ministry, no great difficulty
m persuadmg his father and the rest of the settle™
to forsake the rites of paganism.

The first colony having extended itself along the
coast to a wide firth, another settlement beyond that
boundary was established farther towards the west.
The former, called Oestre Bygd, or the EatUm Settle-
ment, is said to have included, in its most flourishing
state, twelve parishes and two convents; and the
latter, termed Festre Bygd,ot the Weitem SeUlement,
contained four parishes. The colonists of Greenland
were compelled to lead a life of hardship and severe
privations. Tliey dwelt in hovels surrounded by
mountains of perpetual ice ; they never tasted bread,
but subsisted on the fish which they caught, joined to
a little milk obtained from their starving cows; and,
■with seal-skins and the tusks of the walnis, they pur-
chased, from the traders who occasionally visited
them, the wood required for fuel and the construction
of their huts.

Combining the several circumstances together, it
seems clear that the origmal colony of Greenland
began about the southern promontory, pear Cape
Farewell, and stretched along the coast in a north-
westerly direction. Farther north, and probably as
high as the latitude of 60°, the second settlement was
formed. For some centuries both of them main-
tained a sort of commercial intercourse with Nor-
way; but this trade became afterward very much
reduced, in consequence of its being seized as an
E

50

CtlMATE.

exclusive privilege of the Danish court. About tho
year 1376, the natives of the country, or Esquimaux
invaders, ivhom the Norwegian settlers had in con-
tempt called ^railings or Dwarfs, attacked tho
western colony, which now claimed the assistance
of its elder brother. The scanty population, how-
ever, was enfeebled by such repeated alarms; and
that dreadful pestilence, termed the Black Death,
which raged over Europe from the year 1402 to 1404,
at last extended its ravages to Greenland, and nearly
completed the destruction. In fertile regions the
waste of the human species is always quickly re-
paired; but poor and oarren countries can seldom
recover from the depression of such severe calami-
ties. The colonies which occupied Greenland appear
to have languished near one hundred years afterward,
till they became finally extinct about tho commence-
ment of the sixteenth century.

But a notion has very generally prevailed, that only
♦he western settlement of Greenland had perished,
while the eastern was merely secluded from commu-
nication vrith the rest of the world by a vast barrier
of ice, at length accumulated on its shares. ITie
oidy question lately entertained was, whether these
ill-fated colonists have survived the catastrophe, or
have been suddenly entombed in ice and snow, as
the unhappy citizens of Herculaneum were anciently
involved in a dense shower of volcanic ashes, Tre-
mendous stories are told of the east side of Green-
land being now tenanted by giants and stalking
ghosts. Kor more than a century past the court of
Denmark has, at different times, despatched ships to
search after its lost colony, which, evidently under
the impression of superstitious awe, found it impos-
sible to penetrate on that enchanted coast farther
than Cape Discord, in the latitude of 61°. But in
favourable seasons small boats can, without much
difficulty, creep along tlie shore to a muoli liigher

g»ta^Mi<Si^BPjtaass»a»

CLIMATE.

fil

inish court. About tho
country, or Esquimaux
;ian settlers had in con-
Dwarfs, attacked tho
claimed the assistance
canty population, how-

repeated alarms; and
med the Black Death,
n the year 1402 to 1404,
> Greenland, and nearly
In fertile reg-ions the

is always quickly re-
I countries can seldom
of such severe calami-
lupied Greenland appear
tmdred years afterward,
!t about the coramencc-

y-

ally prevailed, that only
reenland had perished,
secluded from commu-
world by a vast barrier
id on its shores. ITie
ned was, whether these
ved the catastrophe, or
ed in ice and snow, as
ulaneum were anciently
r volcanic ashes, Tre-
the east side of Green-
ly giants and stalking
intury past the court of
les, flespatched ships to
wliich, evidently under
us awe, found it impos-
ichanted coast farther
ititude of 61°. But in
ats can, without much
lore to a much liigher

parallel. If any settlers had ever occupied the nar-
row baj's, they might surely have iscaped either in
their canoes or in sledges.

The supposed existence of a colony on the east
side of Greenland is clearly a fable, originating in a
misapprehension of the hnport of the designationa
applied severally to the two settlements. The one
first made lay no doubt to the east, as well as to the
south of the other; but tho ships which resorted
fyom Norway held a westerly course for them both.
Between them a mutual intercourse appears likewise
to have been maintained, which surely could not
have taken place had they been divided by a chain
of lofty and impassable mountsuns covered with
eternal snow. Traces of those ancient settlements
are besides observed even at present scattered along
the western sliores of Greenland, as low down as the
latitude of 61", though not corresponding altogethei
with the poetical descriptions of the Icelandic Sa-
gas. Except the very slight remains of a church,
the only vestiges now remaining consist of low
naked walls, which had served as pens for sheltering
the cattle.

It may be safely affirmed that the settlements
M'hich, during the last hundred years, the" Danes
have been forming at various points on the west side
of Greenland, are more numerous and tluriving than
those which existed at any former period. They
consist of twenty-one colonies, stretching over an
extent of 800 miles. The first establishment is only
a single family, occupying Bear Island, a little to
the east of Cape Farewell. Ten other hamlets,
composed chiefly of Moravians, are planted at differ-
ent points, from the latitude of 60° to that of 68°.
Three settlements are distributed round Disco Bay,
about the latitude of 69° : and seven more have been
extended thence as far as the latitude of 73°. So
far, therefore, from the population having been ex-
tirpated by the increased severity of the climat^ the

52

Ainiux Lim.

truth appears to be, that the present establishments
on the coast of Greenland extend ten degrees farther
north than the ancient settlements at their most
flonrishingf period. This advance of the colonies
has been owing, no doubt, to the increased activity
of the whale fisheries, and to the circumstance of
these having been lately carried with success into
Davis's Strait. But there is nothing certainly in
their history which betrays any radical or permanent
change in the climate of the Arctic regions. Tho
same continent of ice still remains during the fai
greater part of the year, to bar the access of the
navigator to the Pole.

CHAPTER II.

Animal and Vegetable Life in the Polar Regtont.

When we contemplate the aspect of the northern
world,— -bleak, naked, dreary, beaten by the raging
tempest, and subject to an extremity of cold which,
with us, is fatal to life and to all by which life is sup-
ported,— we naturally imagine that animal nature
must exist there on a small scale, and under diminu-
tive forms. It might be expected, that only a few
dwarf and stunted species woidd be scattered along
its melancholy shores, and that life, as it attempted
to penetrate these realms of desolation, would grow
faint and expire. But the mighty Architect of
nature, whose ways and power far surpass human
comprehension, makes here a £ull display of his in-
exhaustible resoupces. He has filled these naked
rocks and wintry seas with a swarming profusion of
life, such as he scarcely brings forth under the most
genial glow of tropical sons. He has stored them

mmmmmmm^smmmm»mmks.immms^mmimimiismrmm

present establishments
end ten degrees farther
[!ments at their most
?ance of the colonies
the increased activity
0 the circumstance of
ried with success into
8 nothing certainly in
ly radical or permanent
5 Arctic regions. Tho
emains during the fai
bar the access of th9

ail.

tn the Polar Regiont.

aspect of the northern
, beaten by the raging
ctremity of cold which,
all by which life is sup-
fie that animal nature
cale, and under diminu-
pected, that only a few
ould be scattered along
hat life, as it attempted
desolation, would grow
mighty Architect of
wer far surpass human
I fiill display of his in-
has filled these naked
swarming profusion of
gs forth under the most
He has stored them

ANtMAL im.

89

with the mightiest of living beings, compared to
whose enormous bulk the elephant and hippoix)ta-
mus, which rear their immense shapes amid the
marsliy plains of the tropics, seem almost diminu-
tive, hven the smaller species, as that of the her.
nng, issue forth from the frozen depths of the Ai.^tic
zone in shonls which astonish by their immensity.
Moving m close and countless columns, they fill all
ne southern seas, and minister food to nations. The
r, too, IS darkened by in-'--''-vbk flocks of sea-
'l, wJule, even upon ti'.a f, - , ,rface of the land,
nais of peculiar structure imd food suited to their
wants.

. By what means, or by what resources, does Nature
support, amid the frozen world, this immensity of
lire? Wonderful as are her operations, they ar«
always arranged agreeably to the general laws im-
posed upon the universe ; and we shall find, in the
structure and condition of the animal world, the
powers by which it is enabled to defy this frightful
rigour of the elements. Some of the provisions by
which animal frames are adapted to the varying ex-
tremes of the climate have almost the appearance of
direct interposition ; yet a more profound investiga-
tion always discovers the causes of them to be deeply
odged in their physical organization.

It is on the seas and shores of the Arctic zone that
we chiefly observe this boundless profusion of life ;
and m conformity with that arrangement by which
Nature supports the inhabitants of the seas, by
making them the food of each other, so here also
we observe a continued gradation of animals, rising
one above another, the higher preying upon the lower,
till food is at last found for those of largest bulk and
most devouring appetite.

The basis of subsistence for the numerous tribes of

the Arctic world is found in the genus medusa, which

the sailors graphically describe as sea-blubber. The

aieausd is a soft, elastic, gelatinous substance, spe.

E2 . i~

04

AMIVAL Lm>

cimens of vhich may be seen lyiti)? on our own shores,
exhibitinia: no signs of life except that of shrinking
when touched. Beyond the Arctic circle it increases
in an extraordinary degree, and is eagerly devoured
by the fiiuiy tribes of all shapes and sizes. By far
the most numerous, however, of the medusan races
are of dimensions too small to be discerned without
the aid of the microscope, — the application of which
instrument shows them to be the cause of a peculiar
colour, which tinges a great extent of the Greenland
Sea. This colour is olive-green, and the water is
dark and opaque compared to that which bears the
common cerulean hue. These olive waters occupy
about a fourth of the Greenland Sea, or above twenty
thousand square miles ; and hence the number of me-
dusan animalcules which they contain is far beyond
calculation. Mr. Scoresby estimates that two square
miles contain 23,B88,00O,000,00fl,()00 ; and as this
number is beyond the range of human words and
conceptions, he illustrates it by observing, that 80,000
persons woiild have been employed since the creation
m counting it. Tliis green sea may be considered as
the Polar pakiture-ground, where whales arc always
seen in the gr satest numbers. These prodigious ani-
mals cannot lerive any direct subsistence from such
small mvisible particles ; but these form the food of
other minute creatijres, which then support others,
till at length animal's are produced of such size as to
afford a morsel for their mighty devourers. The ge-
nus cancer, larger in size than the medusa, appears
to rank second in number and importance. It pre-
sents itself under the various species of the crab,
and, above all, of the shrimp, whose multitudes rival
those of the medusa, and which in all quarters feed
and are fed upon. So carniverous are the propensi-
ties of the northern shrimps, that joints hung out by
Captain Parry's crew from the sides of the ship were
in a few nights picked to the very bone ; and nothing
could be placed within their reach except bodies of

yinff on our own shores,
?ept that of shrinking
Arctic circle it increases
nd is eagerly devoured
)e8 and sizes. By far
of the medusan races

0 be discerned without
he apphcation of which
the cause of a peculiar
xtent of the Greenland
rcen, and the water is
) that which bears the
io olive waters occujjy
id Sea, or above twenty
3nce the number of me-
Y contain is far beyond
timates that two square
1,000,000; and as this

of human words and
y observing, that 80,000
loyed since the creation
!a may be considered as
ere whales arc always

These prodigious ani-
t subsistence from such
these form the food of

1 then support others,
luced of such size as to
ty devourers. The ge-
n the medusa, appears
d importance. It pre-
is species of the crab,
whose multitudes rival
ich in all quarters feed
erous are the propensi-
that joints hung out by
le sides of the ship were
rery bone ; and nothing
each except bodies of

ANIMAL Lira.

S9

which it was desired to obtain the skeleton. Many
of the zoophyti(^al and molluscousordcrs, particularly
actinia sepia, and several species of marine worms,
are also employed in devouring and in affording food
to various other animals.

Among the numberless tribes of living things which
people the northern seas, one class stands highly
conspicuous. These are the cetacea, comprehending
the largest of existing animals, and having a struc-
ture wholly (Ustinct from every other species. Al-
though their home be entirely in the depth of the
waters, they have several features in common with
the larger quadrupeds. They belong to the Linnaean
class of mammalia, or suck-giving animals ; they
produce their young alive ; their skin is smooth and
without scales; their blood warm; and the flesh
tastes somewhat like coarse beef. They have a
heart with two ventricles, and lungs through which
they respire ; and being wiable to separate the air
from the wattr, as fishes do by means of their gills,
they must com,i to the surface in order to breathe.
It is thus by no means strictly scientific to call the
whale a fish ; yet he is entirely an inb^tbitant of the
sea, having a tail, though placed in i Terent posi-
tion from that of ordinary fislies, wi ^e his front
limbs much more resemble fins than legs, and are
solely useful for pawing the deep. Hence the vul-
gar, following a natural and descriptive classifica-
tiau, obstinately continue to give the name of fish to
these watery monsters. But the most characteristic
and im|)ortant feature of the cetacea consists in a
tliick, deep layer of fatty substance, called blubber,
lodged beneath the skin, and surrounding the body,
which yields, on expression, nearly its own bulk of
thick, coarse, viscid oil. It is by this covering that
Providence enables them to defy the most dreadful
extremities of cold, and to preserve a strong animal
heat even under the eternal ice of the Pole. Yet
tiiis substance, being subserneut to the uses of maut

66

ANIMAL tin.

has rouRod a dreadful and deadly enemy, who em«
ploya affainit them the resources of art, — a [lower
which the mif^hticst brutal fort-e stekn in vain to op-
pose. He pursues them through ice and tempest,
and dyes all the northern seas with their blood.
They themselves are nicck, penoeful, slu(?gish j and
man, in tho dreadful contests which he wages with
them, is almost always the aggressor ; yet the resist-
ance which he then encounters is sometimes terri-
ble, and liis life is not unfiequently the forfeit.

Among tlie cetaceous tribes the chief place is due
to the wfude, of all animals " mightiest tlint swim
the ocean stream." Enormous as his bulk is, ru-
mour and the love of the marvellous have repre-
sented it as being at one time mucii greater, and the
existing race as only the degenerate remnant of
mightier ancestors. Mr. Scoresby, however, by col-
lecting various good authorities, has proved that
sixty feet was always nearly the utmost length of
the mvsticeiui, or great Greenland whale. Of 333
individuals, in the capture of which that gentleman
was concerned, none occurred of a length exceeding
fiS feet ; and he gives no credence to any rumour of
a specimen which exceeded 70 feet. Even 60 feet
implies a weight of 70 tons, being nearly that of
three hundred fat oxen. Of this vast mass, the oil
in a rich whale composes about tliirty tons, and
when, as was the case some years aj^o, that article
brought £55 or £60 per ton, we may form some idea
of the great value of the capture ; the bones of the
head, fins, and tail weigh 8 or 10 ; tho carcass, 30 or
33 tons. The oleaginous substance, or blubber, the
most valuable part of the animal, forms a complete
wrapper round the whole body, of the thickness of
from 8 to 20 inches. Tlie head is disproportionally
large, forming about a third of the entire bulk. The
basis consists of the crovni-bonc, from each side of
which descend those inunense jaw-bones which are
sometimes preseated to our wouderiug eyes, aud

in:.

sadly enemy, who em-
arcfig of art, — a [lower
Tt-e seckd in vain to op-
uii(;h ice and tonipcHt,
wna with their blood.
[Miiioeful, sluj^gish ; and

which he wages with
fgressor ; yet the rcsist-
^ers is sonactimes teni-
uently the forfeit.
8 the chief place is due

"mightiest that Rwim
>UB as his bulk is, ni-
narvcllous have rcpre-
; much greater, and the
egenerate remnant of
resby, however, by col-
rities, has proved that
' the utmost length of
snland whale. Of 333

which that gentleman
d of a length exceeding
lence to any rumour of
70 feet. Even 60 feet
, being nearly that of

this vast muss, the oil
about tliirty tons, and

years ago, that article
we may form some idea
turc; the bones of the
* 10 ; the carcass, 30 or
bstance, or blubber, the
imal, forms a complete
ly, of the thickness of
ad is disproportionally
if the entire bulk. The
one, from each side of
e jaw-bones which are

wouderiug eyes, aud

'*^M4i)!SisiHms-wmii%^^>^&>.m^g^mM^i

ANIMAL LirK.

97

which the whalers placn on ilnrk as trophies of their
fvucc^.ss, iiiul ill ordiT that thu fliio oil trontainRiI in
thorn may ooze from their low«)r cxtreniitieti. llieite
J;i«'-b<)nc!« uru from 16 to SO feet in length, ami ex-
tend along the mouth in a eiirv- d line, till they meet
and form a Biwcies of crcscem. The lips, nearly SO
feci long, disphiy, when open, a cavity capable of
receiving a Bliip's Jolly-boat with her crew. The
whale haH no external ear ; but, when the skin is re-
moved, a small aperture is discerned for the admis-
sion of sound. This sense accordingly is very im-
])erfect : yet the animal, by a quick perception of all
movements made on the water, discovers danger at
a great distance, llie eyes are proportionally 8ma!i,
though the sense of seeing is acute ; more so, however,
through clear water than thrr gh an aerial mcdi\m>.
But the most unique feature m the structure {' this
animal consists in the spirac/ei or blow-holes, f laced
nearly on the crown of tlic head. T>cse hs re ucen
compared to natural je(« (Feau throwing up 'vater to
the height of 40 or 60 feet; Lit the m-' ' careful
scrutiny of Mr. Scoresby ascertained, that they emit
only a moist vapour, and are neither more nor less
than huge nostrils. When, however, this vehem u
breathing or blowing is performed under the aurfat <,
a considerable quantity of water is thr> -< ip into
the air. The sound thus occasioned is t c < a^ y thing
like a voice emitted by the animal, and in tl-o case
of a violent respiration, it rescmblej the discharge
of a cannon.

The tail is the most active limb of this mighty
animal, iind the chief instrument of liis motion.
It does not rise vertically like that of most fishes,
being flat and horizontal, only four or five feet
long, but more than twenty feet bro }. It con<
sists of two beds of muscles connected with an
extensive layer sturounding the body, and enclosed'
by a thin covering of blubber. Its power is tre-
mendous. A single stroke throws a large boat with

■■iB

68

ANIMAt LIFK.

all Its crew into the air. Sometimes the whale
places himself m a peri)endicular position, with the
head downwards, and, rearing his tail on high, beats
the water with awful violence. On these occasions
the sea foams, and vapoure darken the air; the lash-
ing 18 heard several mUss off like the roar of a dis-
tant tempest. Sometimes e makes an immense
spring, and rears his whole body above the waves,
to the admiration of the experienced whaler, hut to
theterrorof those who see for the first time this asto-
nishing spectacle. Other motions, equally expressive
of his boundless strength, attract tiie attention of the
navigator at the distance of miles.

The fins, called by the French nageoires, and by
Dr.. Fleming "swimming paws," are placed imme-
dialtely behind the eyes. They are nine feet long,
enclosed by very elastic membranes, and provided
with bones similar in form and number to .those of
the human hand. Such is the spring and vitaUty
of the parts, that, if we may believe De Reste, they
continue to move fortome time after being separated
from the body. According to Mr. Scoresby, however,
while the whale swims, these organs lie flat on the
surface of the water, and are not at all instrumental in
producing his motion, which arises entirely from the
tail. The fins merely direct and steady the move-
ment, and thus serve rather as a helm than as oars.
The period of gestation in the whale is nine or ten
months, and the female brings forth in February or
March. She is viviparous ; that is, the young come
forth alive, not enclosed in an egg; and there is usu-
ally only one at a time. These delicate nurslings,
only about fourteen feet long, and weighinglittle more
than a ton, are watched over by the mother with the
most tender care. The whalers strike these suckers^
as they are called, not on account of their own valuer
but under the assurance that the mother will t ^ait
. forth in their defence. Then ensues a contest hard and
perilous, but commonly attended with a prosperous

":Viv'V,\.;^;^:r^';t^^^;^^;.^-i,>'y;f;: .

* 'H^kU^.^KM'^ -::L^-^

LIFK.

Sometimes the whale
icular position, with the
ig his tail on high, beats
!e. On these occasions
arken the air ; the lash-
' bke the roar of a dis-
e makes an immense
body above the waves,
;erienced whaler, but to
the first time this asto-
ions, equally expressive
ract tiie attention of the
miles.

ench nageoires, and by
na,^ are placed imme-
ley are nme feet long,
mbranes, and provided
iid number to -those of
ho spring and vitaUty
believe De Reste, they
le after being separated
Mr. Scoresby, however,
organs lie ilat on the
ot at all instrumental in
irises entirely from the
and steady the move-
s a helm than as oars,
he whale is nine or ten
i forth in February or
hat is, the young come
egg; and there is asu-
ese delicate nurslings,
nd weighinglittle more
Ijy the mother with the
;rs strike these suckera,
unt of their own valuer
the mother will t^ait
sues a contest hard and
led with a prosperous

ANIMAL LIFE.

S9

issue, for she never seeks safety in flight. She rushes
upon the boat, drags the line with extraordinary force,
tosses to and fro with extreme agony, and suffers her-
self to be struck by repeated harpoons without at-
tempting to escape ; while the good-natured captain
has his triumphant feelings damped by the considera-
tion, that his prize has fallen the victim to such an
tf ardour of maternal tenderness. According to iniXca-
tions afforded by notches in the whalebone, which
seem not, however, very fully established, the whale
does not attain his full growth under twenty-five
years, and is said to reach a very great age.

There is a considerable variety of whales. The
balcma physalis {balanoptera gibbar of La Cep^de),
called by the sailors razorback, is considerably longer
than the mj'sticetus ; and though his circumference
b ;• smaller, he is on the whole a still larger and more
powerful anin.iil. He is also swifter, swimming at
the rate of twelve miles an hour; and Mr. Scoresby
has seen him, when struck with a haipoon, run off
480 fathoms of line in a minute. An imiividual of
this species, found dead in Davis's Straits, measured
105 feet in length; he is, however, a dangerous
species to attack, as, by the extreme rapidity of his
motion, he often breaks the line, or obliges the sailors
to cut it ill order to escape destruction. Martens
mentions a whale of this kind, which dragged a boat
with it?^ crew among loose ice, where they all
periihed. As this fish contains only ten or twelve
to'.is of oil, of an inferior quality, the whalers gene-
ially shmi his encounter, unless when they are dis-
posed for a daring adventure, or mistake him, as they
frequently do, for a mysticetus. Besides the two
pectoral fins, he has a horny protuberance or fin at
the extremity of the back, which part of the body,
instead of being round as in the mj^sticetus, rises
into a narrow ridge. The bultma mu»aJus ot
broad-nosed whale, the balcma rostraia or beaked
whalt, and the baluma boopt or finuei, may be cou-

torn

60

ANDfAl UFE.

sidered as razorbacks on a smaller scale, with certain
specific distinctions. It is usually these smaller
whales that frequent the coasts of Norway and
Shetland, and sometimes make their appeam'ncc in
the British firths ; but neither they nor the physalis
ever attract the attention of an experienced Asher.

The only species besides the mysticctus, which is
the 6bject of regular whaling operations, is the cacha-
tot {phyieter microps) or spermaceti whale. This
variety occurs occasionally in the northern seas,
especially on the American coast, but abounds chiefly
in the waters bordering on the Antarctic zone, and
is the main object of pursuit in the southern fisherj'.
The cachalot does not seem to have met Mr.
Scoresby's observation, although a male was thro\vn
ashore at Limekilns on the Forth, as described by
Sir Robert Sibbald; but, according to the dcscrip«
tion of De Reste and others, this species is distin-
guished by a long row of teeth on the lower and
none on theupper jaw ; the back has a peculiar form,
with a small bunch behind : the tail is of extraordi-
nary breadth. The cachalot appears in large herds,
while the mysticetus, called by our fishers the right
whale, is found usually single. These bands vciy
often amount to two himdred, which are said to be
mostly female, under the guidance usually of a msde
of very large dimensions. To attack them is a for-
midable undertaking; but success is very advan-
tageous, since ten or twelve sometimes fall in one
encounter. The perils and adventures of this fishery
are described as almost exceeding belief; for which
reason it is to be regretted that Captain Day's
modesty makes him decline recounting any of those
which he witnessed. The quantity of oil is much
smaller than in the mysticetus, not usually exceed-
ing three tons ; but, from its being mixed with the
substance called spermaceti, is far superior in value.
The latter kind of oil, while warm, is fluid ; but on
being poui«d into hot water it congeals into Iarg«

il«aiampiHMH«iianKK:

•IFE*

sailer scale, with certain

usually these smaller
;oasts of Norway and
ike their apMara'ncc in
3r they nor the physalis
an experienced Asher.
the mysticctus, which is
operations, is the cacha-
lermaceti whale. This

in the northern seas,
3ast,but abounds chiefly
the Antarctic zone, and
in the southern fishery.
Bern to have met Mr.
lugh a male was thro\vn
Forth, as described by
cording to the dcscrip-
s, this species is distin-
eeth on the lower and
ack has a peculiar form,
the tail is of extraordi-

appears in large herds,
by our fishers the right
;le. These bands \eiy
d, which are said to be
dance usually of a male
Fo attack them is a for-
success is very advan-

sometimes fall in one
dventuree of this fishery
eding belief; for which
d that Captain Day's
recounting any of those
luantity of oil is much
us, not usually exceed-

being mixed with the
is far superior in value,
warm, is fluid ; but on

it congeals into Iarg«

ANnCAL LITE.

01

flakes. This whale yields also the peculiar aromatic
substance called ambergris, formed under peculiar
circumstances in the rectum, and voided as feces.

Another species, called the narwal, about sixteen
feet long and eight in circumference, appears to difler
little from a small whale, except in a tusk projecting
from his upper jaw, three to ten feet in length, which,
suggesting to the sailors the idea of a horn, has pro-
cured for him the appellation of the sea-unicorn. He
is swift, yet is taken without much difficulty, and
3rield8 two or three tons of very fine oil. The dol-
phin, another cetaceous animal of poetic fame, occa-
sionally occurs ; and the grampus appears often in
numerous herds, guided by some of larger size. The
beluga, or white whale, is also a small species, dis-
tinguished chiefly by its colour.

All the shores and borders of the Arctic zone are
crowded with huge amphibious races, which appear
to form an intermediate link between whales and
quadrupeds, — the tnammalia of the sea and those of
the land. Among these is to be distinguished the
morse or walrus (irichecus rosmarus), which bears
buch a resemblance to our domestic quadrupeds,
that sailors, according to their various impres-
sions, have given it the title of sea-horse or sea-
cow. It is a large, shapeless, unwieldy creature, 12
to 15 feet in length, and from 8 to 10 in circum-
ference ; the head small, the limbs short, of an inter-
mediate character between fins and legs. As a de-
fence against the extreme cold, these animals not
only have skins an inch thick, covered with close
hair, but enjoy like th». other cetacea a coating of oily
felt, with which their bodies are completely enveloped.
Thus cased, they lie stretched on the ice in the depth
of winter, without suffering any inconvenience. The
most remarkable feature of the walrus, however, con-
sists in two teeth or tusks, which project in a curved
line from the upper jaw, and are nearly two feet in
length. They are of beautiful white bone, almost
F

fe

62

AinKAI. LtFS.

equal to ivory, and mnch used in the fabrication of
artificial teeth. The front face, when seen at a
little distance, bears a strikins^ resemblance to the
human; and its appearance is suspected to have
sometimes ^ven rise to the fanciful reports of mer«
maids seen m the northern seas. Like all the ceta-
ceous tribes, to which the walrus is allied, he is dis-
posed to be peaceful and harmless. Captain Parry
describes the supine security with which a number
of theTi lay on the ice, piled over each other, without
discomposing themselves at the approach of a party
armed for their destruction. But they were doubt-
less not aware of the deadly weapons with which
man is armed, while his physical iispect displays
nothing with which they might not deem themselves
fully qualified to cope. In Spitzbergen, where thoy
have been long the object of chase to the Russian
hunters, they are reported to keep very strict watch;
it being-said that one stands guard wliile the others
sleep. Even when sensible of danger, they are not
forward to face it, but rather shun the attack by
rushing beneath the ice, when those behind, with
their tusks, urge forward their companions. Yet
when at length compelled to combat, they give battle
with the utmost coolness and courage; they then
stand firm by each other, rush in one united body
against the boats, and, striking with their tusks, en-
deavour to overset them. When repulsed too, they
repeatedly rally, and yield finally only to the fire-
arms of Europeans, or to the stratagems of the Es-
quimaux. Maternal tenderness, and the determina-
tion with which the female defends her young, are
equally conspicuous in them as in members of the
whale species.

The seal, an animal well known on all the shores
of Europe, need not be particularly described. The
Arctic species are distinguished by their very great
numbers, and by the various, or rather universal
purposes to which they are applied by the Esqui-

L':«K^d^-:>?.''_4fMMil

L>:L-?i<«M».«MMK*.na<-3^.MbW^Mwx~t

V.

in the fabrication of
ice, when seen at a
f resemblance to the
IS suspected to have
leiful reports of mer-
8. Like all the ceta-
vs is allied, he is dis*
less. Captain Parry
ivith whicn a number
er each other, without
e approach of a party
But they were doubt-
weapons with which
sical aspect displays
not deem themselves
itzbergen, where thoy
;hasc to the Russian
eep very strict watch ;
jard wliile the others

■ danger, they are not

■ shun the attack by
n those behind, with
ir companions. Yet
)mbat, they give battle
I courage; they then
1 in one united body

with their tusks, en-
len repulsed too, they
ally only to the fire-
tratagems of the £»•
IS, and the determina-
i fends her young, are
s in members of the

)wn on all the shores
larly described. The
d by their very great
or rather universal
}plied by the Esqui-

ANIMAL LTTE. 68

maux. They furnish food for his table, oil for hia
lamp, clothing for his person ; even their bones and
skin supply materials for his light portable boats and
his summer tents.

Before quitting the polar seas we must notice an-
other inhabitant, whose migrations render it familiar
to all the coasts of Europe. These waters, as
already observed, apparently so chill and ungenial,
contain not only an am{>le store of animal life, but a
vast superabundance, with which they supply all the
seas of the temperate climates. From them in par-
ticular, if we may believe the Dutch writers, are de-
rived the extenbive and valuable tribes of the herring.
Their immense bands break up from their frozen
depths about January, and in March appear on th^
coast of Iceland. Their column at this time, con-
fined between Greenland and the North Cape, is of
comparatively small breadth, but so dense that the
water is darkened by them ; any wooden vessel let
down brings up several : they may even be taken by
the stroke of a lance. They follow certain of their
number larger than the rest, called kings. These
kings are held in much respect by the Dutch, who
studiously spare their majesties, and even liberate
them when found in the net, lest, deprived of this
royal guidance, the nation should not find the way to
their accustomed haunts. After emerging from the
Greenland sea, this great army divides into two
wings, of which the right and largest bears down di-
rectly upon Scotland ; at the north-eastern extremity
of which it forms that immense field, in which the
Dutch for so many years carried on their great na-
tional fishery. They are now rivalled by the boat-
men of Wick and Thurso. A detaclunent smallei in
number, but some of which attain to superior excel-
lence, fills the western bays of Scotland, and passing
along Ireland, reaches the neighbouring coast of
France. Meantime the left or smaller wing, after
ranging the Noiwegian shore, has entered the Baltic.

@

64

ANIMAL LITK,

In July all these advancing divisions halt, and by tin
unknown impulse beffin to retrace their course to-
wards their northern home. De Reste considers it
certain, that the herrings, in returning, have a gene-
ral point of rendezvous not yet discovered ; but it
should seem that only the actual discovery of this
rendezvous can ascertain its existence. However,
about the end of September, they reach their resi-
dences beneath the ices of the Pole, where they re-
main three months; all the rest of the year being
spent in wandenng over the face of the ocean.

Although the object of Providence in leading the
herring this immense annual round is dou'^tless that
of furnishing food to numerous animals, and espe-
cially to man, yet tlie immediate impulse by which
they are urged to so extensive and regular a move-
ment has been the subject of much controversy.
Anderson supposes that they fly before the numerous
large fishes which fill the Arctic seas, and by wliich
they are pursued and devoured, and that they form
themselves into close bands with a view to self-de-
fence. But the regular course which they follow,
year after year, and their constant return at a fixed
period, suggests nothing of that tumultuous flight
which such a panic woula have prompted. It seems
more probablie, that they are led by those instincts
which guide fishes tp deposite their spawn in places
remote and dissimilar to their usual abode. The fe-
male herring, when taken on the coast of Britain, is
found commonly to contain a roe, and as this roe
comprises the embi^o of ten thousand future her-
rings, such a prodigious fecundity easily repairs all
the havoc committed upon the species, not oiUy by
its brethren of the deep, but also by the ingenuity of
man constantly exerted for its capture and destruc-
tion.

The other animals which frequent the Polar re-
gions belong chiefly or wholly to the land.

In the caves of the rocks, or in the hollows of the

isions halt, and by tin
irace their course to-
)e Reste considers it
iturning, have a gene-
ct discovered ; but it
ual discovery of this
jxistence. However,
hoy reach their resi-
Pole, where they re-
est of the year being
ce of the ocean,
idence in leading the
)und is dou'^tlcss that
a animals, and cspe-
ite impulse by which
and regidar a move-
f much controversy.
f before the numerous
iC seas, and by wliich
I, and that they form
ith a view to self-de-
3 which they follow,
tant return at a fixed
lat tumultuous flight
prompted. It seems
led by those instincts
their spawn in places
isual abode. The fe-
le coast of Britain, is
roe, and as this roe
thousand future her-
lity easily repairs eil
species, not only by
o by the ingenuity of
capture and destruc-

squent the Polar re-

to the land.

in the hollows of tbe

y, j»»«^ i.-i

■■■■-^ammmm

HHP

ANIMAL LIFE. Q0

ice, dwells the moat formidable of Arctic quadru<
pods, the Greenland or Polar bear. This fierce ty-
rant of the cliffs and snows of the north unites the
strength of the lion with the imtameablc fierceness
of the hyena. A long 8haf,'tfy covering of white soft
hair and a tsopious supply of fat enable hlin to defy
the winter of this rigorous climate. Under the heat
of Britain he suffers the most painful sensations;
Pennant saw one, over whom it was necessary from
time to time to pour largo pailfuls of water. An-
other, kept for some years by piofessor Jameson,
evidently sufftired severely from the lieatof an Edin-
burgh summer. The haunt of the bear is on the
dreary Arctic shores, or on mountains of ice, some-
tinaes two hundred miles from land ; yet he is not
strictly speaking, amphibious. He caimot remait
under water above a few moments, and he reacho
his maritime stations only by swimming from or*
icy fragment to another. Mr. Scoresby limits the
swimming reach to three or four miles ; yet Parrt
found one in the centre of Barrow's Strait, where i
was forty miles across. This bear prowls continu-
ally for liis prey, which consists chiefly of the smallel
cetacea and or seals, which, unable to contend with
him, shun their fate by keeping strict watch, and
plunging into the depths of the waters. With the
walrus he holds dreadful and doubtful encounters;
and that powerful animal, with his enormous tusks,
frequently beats him off with great damage. The
whale he dares not attack, but watches anxiously
for the huge carcass in a dead state, which affords
him a prolonged and delicious feast : he scents it at
the distance of miles. All these sources of supply
being precarious, he is sometimes left for weeks
without food, and the fury of his hunger then be-
comes tremendous. At such periods, man, viewed
by him always as his prey, is attacked with peculiar
fierceness.
The auuals of the north are filled with accounts
F3

66

AMTIIAL I.mS.

of the most Tierilous and fatal conflicts of the Polar
bear. The flrst, and one of the most tragical, was
suHtained by Harentz and Heeniskerke, in 16%, dur-
ing their vovage for the discovery of the north-east
passage, (laving anchored at an island near the
stiait of VVaygatz, two of the sailors landed, and
w« re walking on shore, when one of tliem felt him-
self closely hugged from behind. Thinking this a
frolic of one of his companions, he called out in a
corresponding tone, "Who's there t pray stand off."
His comrade looked, and screamed out, "A bear! a
bear !" then running to the ship, alarmed the crew
with loud cries. The sailors ran to the spot armed
with pikes and muskets. On their approach the bear
very coolly quitted the mangled corpse, sprang upon
another sailor, carried him off, and, plunging liis teeth
into his body, began drinking his blood at long
draughts. Hereupon the whole of that stout crew,
struck with terror, turned their backs, and fled pre-
cipitately to the ship. On arriving there they began
to look at each other, imable to feel much satisfac-
tion with 'their own prowess. Three then stood
forth, undertaking to avenge the fate of their country-
men, and to secure for them the rites of burial.
They advanced, and fired at first from so respectful
a distance that they all missed. The pivser then
courageously proceeded in front of his companions,
and, taking a close aim, pierced the monster's skull
immediately below the eye. The bear, however,
merely lifted his head, and advanced upon them,
holding still in his mouth the victim whom he was
devouring; but seeing him soon stagger, the three
rushed on with sabre and bayonet, and soon de-
spatched him. They collected and bestowed decent
sepulture on the mangled limbs of their comrades,
while the skin of the animal, thirteen feet long, be-
came the prize of the sailor who had fired the suc-
cessful shot.
The history of the whale-fishers records a number

onflicts of the Polar
e moat tra^pcal, waa
lakerke, in 1696, dur>
try of the north-east
nn island near the

0 sailore landed, nnd
)ne of them felt him-
id. '{"hinkin^ this a
, he called out in a
ire 1 pray stand off."
ned out, " A bear ! a
p, alarmed the crew
in to the spot armed
eir approach the bear

corpse, sprang upon
id, plunt^ni? his teeth
', his blood at long
) of that stout crew,
backs, and fled pre^
ing there they bvgnn

feel much sutisfac-

Three then stood
fate of theii country«

the rites of burial.
St from so respectful
i. The purser then
t of his companions,

1 the monster's skull
The bear, however,
Ivanced upon them,
ictim whom he was
n stagger, the three
(ronet, and soon de-
and bestowed decent
i of their comrades,
lirteen feet long, be-
0 had fired the suc-

!rs records a niunber

ANtMAt urr..

m

of remarkable escapee from the bear. A Dutch cap.
tain, Jonge Kees, in 1668, undertook, with two ca-
noes to attack one, and with a lance gave him so
dreadful a wound in the bellv, that his immediate
death seemed inevitable. Anxious, therefore, not to
injure the skin, Kees merely followed the animal
close, till ho should drop down dead. The bear,
however, having climbed a little rock, made a spring
from the distance of twenty-four feet upon the cap-
tain, who, taken completely by surprise, lost hold of
the lance, and fell ben> nth the assailant, who, plac-
ing both paws on hiw roast, opened two rows of
tremendous teeth, and paused linr a momettt, as if
to show him all the horrors of his situation. At
this critical instant, a sailor, rushing forward with
only a scoop, succeeded in alarming the monster,
who made off, leaving the captain without the
slightest injury.

In 1788, Captain Cook of the Archangel, when
near the coast of Spitzbergen, found himself sud-
denly between the paws of a bear. He instantly
c^led on the surgeon, who accompanied him, to fire,
which the latter did with such admirable promptitude
and precision, that he shot the beast through the
head, and delivered the captain. Mr. Hawkins of
the Everthorpe, in July, 1818, having pursued and
twice struck a large bear, had raised his lance for a
third blow, when the animal sprang forward, sei-'i'id
him by the thigh, and threw liim over its head into
the water. Fortunately, it used this advantage only
to effect its own escape. Captain Scoresby men-
tions a boat's crew which attacked a bear in the Spitz-
bergen sea; but the animal having succeeded in
climbing the sides of the boat, all the sailors threw
themselves for safety into the water, where they
hung by the jiinwale. The victor entered trium-
phantly, and ttiok possession of the barge, where i;
sat quietly till it was shot by another party. The
same writer mentions the ingenious contrivance of a

tarn

t«ws«.il

66

ANIMAL Uri.

sailor, who, being pursued by one of those crcatnrcn,
thrcwtlown sui'ct'»»ively iiis hat.jaoket, luinilliorchii'r,
>uid uvory ottier iirticlu in hiii puttHctiHiun, wlien the
brut« puusiiiHT ut oach, gave tlie sailor alway« a cer-
tain aavunlago, and enabled liiui Anally to regain tlu>
vosfiel.

Though the voracity of the bent is sufh, that ho
has been known to feed on his own Hpecios, yet ma-
tenial tenderness is as constiicuous in thn femalu aa
in other inhabitants of the frozen regions. There is
no exertion which she will not inukt! for the supply
of her proffeny. A she-bear, with her two cuIm,
being pursued by some sailors across a field of ico,
and finding that, neitlier by example, nor by a peculiar
voice and fxtion, she could urge them to the requisite
•peed, applied her paws and pitched them alternately
forward. The little creatures themselves, as she
came up, threw themselves before her to receive the
impulse, and thus both she and they effected their
escape.

Bears are by no means devoid of intelligence^
Ttieir scihemes for entnipping seals, and other ani*
mals on which they feed, often display considerable
ingenuity. The manner in which the Polar iKsar sur-
prises his victim, is thus described by Captain Lyon :
— On seeing his intended prey, he gets (|uietly into
the water, and swims to a leeward position, from
■whence, by frequent short dives, he silently makes
his approaches, and so arranges his distance, that at
the last dive he comes to the sjiot where the sesU is
lying. If the pour animal attempts to e8ca[)e by
rolling into the water, he falls into the paws of the
Dear ; if, on the contrary, he lies still, lus destroyer
makes a powerful spring, kills him on the ice, and de-
vours him at leisure. Some sailors, endeavouring to
catch a bear, placed the noose of a rope under the
snow, baited Ayith n piece of whale's flesh. The
bear, hawevt;r, contrived, three successive times, to
push the noose aside, and to carry off the bait im«

«pi

rs.

)iie of these crcatiircn,
t,Jm;k(!t, hanilkcrchii'r,
po8H('tiHiuii, wlieii the
c sailor iilw!iy« n ccr-
111 Aiiolly to regain tits

) bear is sur-h, that ho
* own HpocicH, yet rna-
uouH in thn femalu ai
con r^Kions. There is
)t inakt) for the supply
, with her two cubs,
ti across a fleld of ico,
niplo, nor by u peculiar
;c them to the requisite
iched them alternately
s themselves, as she
fore her to receive the
md they effected their

evoid of intelli{|;encek
seals, and other ani*
1 display considerable
lich the I'ular beav sur-
bed by Captain Lyon :
r, he gets (|uietly into
!eward position, from
fas, he silently makes
)s his distance, that at
sjiot where the seiU is
ttempts to e8ca[)o by
8 into the paws of the
lies still, his destroyer
him on the ice, and de>
lilors, ondeavouriiif; to
) of a rope under the
r whale's flesh. 'Hie
c successive limes, to
carry off the bait ua«

ANIHAI. LIFF..

«0

tiurt. Captain Scoreshy had half-tamod two cuh^b
which used even to walk tlie diM^k ; but they showed
themselves always restless under Uiii contineraent,
and Anally etTected their escape.

Aocordini^ to Pennant and other writers, the boar
forms chambers in the ^reat ice-mountains, where he
sleeus the lont; winter ni^ht, undisturlHMl hy the roar
of tiic northern tempest ; but tliis regular hibernation
is doubted by many n^oent observers. 1%! fact seems
to be, that tlie males roam about all winter in sean^h
of prey, not beiiift under the same necessity of sub-
mitting to the torpid state as the black bear of Ame-
rica, which feeds chiefly on vegetable food ; but the
females, who are usually pregnant during the more
rigorous season of the year, seclude themselves for
nearly the entire winter in their dens.

The animals which belong entirely to the land, and
feed on herbage, are, in a climate covered deep with
snow for nine months in the year, necessarily few
both in number and species. The reindeer, a most
patient and useful creature, the standing inhabitant
of all the northern lands, reaches nearly as far as
animal life can subsist. To the Laplander he is all
in all ; and in that climate he can always dig from
under the snow the moss or lichen, his favourite
food. Even in the severer Arctic climates he carries
his summer excursions as far as men have yet pene-
trated ; but at the end of October the deeply-frozen
earth allows him no longer to teach even tne simple
food in which he delights. They then assemble in
largo herds, and migrate to the southward. From
Melville Island they were oven seen crossing the
frozen surface of the sea, to reach a milder climate
on the American shore. The people witliin the
Arctic zone do not tamo the reindeer, or yoke
it in the sledge; it is not even for them the staff
of life ; but it affords a favourite object of sum-
mer chase, ^ves an agreeable variety to their
meals, and yields their warmest and most valuable

70

ANIMAL tIFE.

winter robes. The fur-skin becomes always richer
and more copious in proportion to the intensity of
the cold, against which it forms the only, but a suf-
ficient defence. In the chase the deer fall easy vic-
tims, even to the rude archery of the Esquimaux,
being so simple and curious, that, if a man merely
walks away from them, they follow. Some of these
animals who joined Captain Parry's crews on Mel-
ville Island played romid them like lapdogs, and at
setting oilt in the morning used to gambol by rearing
on their hind-legs. The musk-ox, the only member
of the bovine species which penetrates the Arctic
zone, though in smaller numbers, affords a wholesome
and agreeable variety of food. Its unwieldy form is

Protected from the cold by an immense profusion of
air, which envelopes its whole limbs and figure, and
also by an interior layer of wool, which appeared to
Pennant the finest he had ever seen, and made, he
Avas told, stockings superior to the ricliest silk. This
last, we suspect, is a temporary winter clothing.

The canine race affords several species which
brave the most extreme severity of the Arctic cold,
and remain after every other land-quadruped, except
the bear, has taken its flight to the southward.
Wolves, in considerable packs, continue still to seek
their prey in the utmost depths of the Polar winter.
It seems difficult to discover what food they find at
that season ; but a regular pack attended the English
discovery-ships, watching for whatever oflal might
bf found exposed, and serenading them with nightly
bowlings. As if by a sort of tacit convention, they
did not presume to attack the sailors, but they ad-
vanced in a most daring manner to the sides of the
ships, and sometimes even entered the huts of the
Esquimaux, whose dogs they esteemed the choicest
rize, and \ery speedily devoured them. The natives
catch them by traps formed of little sheds of ice, at
whose entrance is a portcullis of the same material,
comiected in such a maimer with the bait within,

Wi>^.»))'fliaB«»yiti:ffi'i!i;>«iiiy

E.

comes always richer
)n to the intensity of
} the only, but a suf-
he deer fall easy vic-
Y of the Esquimaux,
hat, if a man merely
low. Some of these
arry's crews on Mel-
i like lapdogs, and at
to gambol by rearing
•ox, the only member
lenetrates the Arctic
, affords a wholesome
Its unwieldy form is
mmense profusion of
limbs and figure, and
»1, which appeared to
rseen, and made, he
he richest silk. This
winter clothing,
veral species which
y of the Arctic cold,
id-quadruped, except
to the southward,
continue still to seek
of the Polar winter,
hat food they find at
attended the English
whatever oflal might
ig them with nightly
icit convention, they
sailors, but they ad-
r to the sides of the
ered the huts of the
rteemed the choicest
1 them. The natives
ittle sheds of ice, at
f the same material,
ith the bait within,

AltnifAL LIFE

71

that, whe» the latter is seized by the animal, the port-
cullis drops, and the wolf is taken. Their tenacity
of life is such as often, after apparent death, to cause
surprises and even dangers. The Arctic fox, a
small beautiful white animal, with woolly hair like a
little shock-dog, occurs in still greater numbers.
About a hundred were cauglit inCapt. Parry's second
voyage, some of which were half-tamed and made pets
of; while others, by a harder fate, were dressed for
table ; and their flesh, somewhat resembling kid, af
forded an agreeable relief from the constant use of
salted meat.

The dog, however, is the most important quadniped
of the Arctic world, and the most valuable possession
of its people, who have succeeded in taming and
rendering it equally valuable for draught and hunting.
The dogs of the Greenlander, the Esquimaux, and
the Kamtchadale, are large, and of a somewhat wild
aspect. Captain Lyon describes them as resembling
ii form the shepherd's dog, rising to the height of the
Newfoundland, but broad like the mastiff, having
short pricked ears, a furry coat, and a bushy tail. In
general, they are observed to bear a strong resem-
nance to the wolf, and the opinion is even prevalent
tfiat they are neither more nor less than tamed wolves.
Pi^rry and Richardson both mention instances in
which domestic dogs were seduced away by the at-
tractions of female wolves ; yet the avidity with
which the wolf devours these, his supposed tame
brethren, does not seem very indicative of so close
an aflinity. Nature, with provident care, defends
them against the cold, not only by a profusion of
long hair, but by a soft downy covering, formed be-
neathit at the commencement of winter, and shed at
the approach of the milder season. The Esquimaux
are much reproached for their harsh treatment of
these valuable servants ; yet in infancy they are used
with tenderness, the women often taking the young
puppies into bed, and feeding them from their owa

BiMM

72

AKIMAt LIFE.

months. As soon as they can walk they are yoked
to a small sledge ; in endeavouring to shake off which
encumbrance they learn to draw it. Severe and fre-
quent beatings, however, are necessary to train them
for actmg as a regular team. But their most severe
pnvation is in food ; of which, during the season of
scarcity, they obtain a portion barely sufficient to
maintain life, and not at all to prevent them from
ftlhng into a state the most meager and debilitated.
Their hunger is manifested by the nature of the sab-
stances with which they sometimes seek to assuage
it. Captain Parry saw one which ate a large piece
of canvass, a cotton handkerchief laid out to dry,
and apiece of a linen shirt. The Esquimaux, we must
recollect, are subject to severe scarcities, and the
food of the dogs being the same with their own, the
animals, on such emergencies, can scarcely expect
to be placed on a footing of equality. This rough
usage does not seem incompatible with a measure of
solid attachment to these valuable servants. The
natives refused to sell them to the English, till assured
that they would not be killed. They rejoiced greatly
to see a house built for them ; and at every visit a
friendly recognition took place between the dog and
nis old master. Wlien the animals are yoked in the
sledge, a whip of twenty feet long enforces obedi-
ence, while peculiar cries indicate the right or left, to
turn or to stop. Three dogs could draw a sledg«
weighing lOOlbs., at the rate of a mile in six minutes,
and one leader has drawn ISeibs. the same distance
m eight minutes. A full team, however, comprises
eight or ten dogs ; though seven have drawn a full'
sledge at the rate of a mile in four minutes and a
Imlf; while nine, employed in conveying stores from
the Hecla to the Fury, drew 161 libs, in nine mi-
nutes. Capt. Lyon reports most favou.ably of th«
team which he himself formed, who used to draw
him from ship to shin, a mile distant, in the {leeppst
daikness and amid clouds of snow-drift, with the

-m-

iiiii|tawiWW>#8ligiW'W»lii;iWji»lf>ll<|»r|WtiP^

walk they are yoked
ing to shake off which
V it. Severe and fre-
cesaary to train them
Jilt their most severe
during the season of
1 barely sufficient to
J prevent them from
jager and debilitated,
he nature of the s;jb-
mes seek to assuaj;e
ich ate a large piece
lief laid out to dry,
Esquimaux, we must
1 scarcities, and the
3 with their own, the
can scarcely expect
liiality. This rough
ie with a measure of
able servants. The
3 English, till assured
rhey rejoiced greatly
and at every visit a
i>etween the dog and
lals are yoked in the
ong eriforces obedi-
e the right or left, to
)uld draw a sledg«
I mile in six minutes,
s. the same distance
however, comprises
!n have drawn a fall'
four minutes and a
mveying stores from
leillbs. in nine mi-
it favou.ably of th«
who used to dra\r
tant, in the deepest
iuow-drift, with the

ASntAI. LOfB.

73

most perfect precision, when he could not have found
his own way for a hundred steps. Their services in
hunting are also of great value : they can snuff the
seal in his hole, or the deer on the mountains, from a
surpnsing distance. Assembled in packs, they face
even the Polar bear, keeping him at least at bay till
their masters come up with spears to the attack.

The air in those dreary regions is, almost as much
as the waters, peopled with its appropriate inhabit-
ants, who fill it continually with sound and life.
Here, too, the species are nearly all diflferent from
those which wing their flight through the temperate
skies, rhey do not shine with the bright hues of the
humming-bird, nor breathe the soft notes of the
nightingale, nor do they chann the air with the rich
melody of our woodland choirs; but the auk, the
petrel, and the gull, clustering in myriads, cause all
ttie rocks and shores of the north to echo with their
wild clang. They are almost all rapacious and car-
niiroious; the vast collections of shell-fish uid ma-
nne insects with which those seas abound, ^nd the
carcasses of the huge animals which are killed either
in conflicts with each other or with man, affordine
them an inexhaustible supply of nutriment.

The fiumar, or petrel {vrocellaria glacialit), is the
close attendant o( the whale ships in every stam of
their progress. Termed emphatically the bird of
storm, It faces the northern tempest when ravia&
with Its utmost fury, and seats itself on the agitated
crest of the mountain-wave, as calmly as if restine
on the surface of an untroubled lake! It follows
with one uniform object,— that of snatching and
feaating on portions of blubber. As soon as a whale
IS festened to the sHo of the ship, and begins *c >,'
cut up, an immense ir-ffter takes place, sometunes
exceeding a thousand, a'' m r'ionedin the rear, watch-
ing for the fraijments w :u arf wafted to leeward,
pe peculiar Ciiuckl.ng i oise by Tviiich they express
their eager expectation u^e voracity with which they

«^

•Ml

AMniAL ItFI.

seize on the fat, and the huge morsels which they
swallow, — the envy shown to those who have ob-
tained the largest of these delicate morsels, and
often the violent raeasm^s taken to wrest it from
them, — afford to the sailors cmious and amusing
spectacles. The surface of the sea is sometimes so
covered with them, that a stone cannot be thrown
without one being struck. When an alarm is given,
innumerable wings are instantly in movement, and
the birds, striking their feet agamst the water to aid
their flight, cause a loud and thundering plash.

The petrel, however, does not enjoy alone this
delicious ocean-festival. It is sought with equal
avidity by the various species of the lams or gull —
the Arctic gull, the kittiwake, and the snow-I 'rd
(larus ebumeua), which last excites admiration by ils
pure and beautiful white; but the elegance of its
taste does not correspond to that of its appearance,
fat blubber being its choicest luxury, while it utters a
loud and disagreeable scream. But all these raven-
ing tribes of me northern sky have a terrible rival
in the glaucous gijll (larvs glaucus), who equals in
rapacity and surpasses them all in power and
strength. In consideration of this, the Dutch have
invested him with the title of burgomaster; but that
sage magistrate uses, we trust, his power in a very
different manner from his winged representative,
who employs it solely in wresting from the weaker
species whatever he sees them possess, and esteems
desirable. He is usually hovering high in the air,
or seated on the loftiest icy pinnacles, whence, having
fixed his eye on a delicious morsel, he darts down
on the possessor, which, whether fulmar, snow-bird,
or kittiwake, must instantly resign the coveted prize.
Happily for these races, the burgomaster species is
very small in number, compared to the multitudes
over whom he tyrannizes.

The genus anas, comprehending tlie swan, the
goose, and the duck, large, useful, and often beautifid

-atttmuvftmifllfff

! morsels which thej
those who have ob-
lelicate morsels, and
ken to wrest it from
;urious and amusing
i sea is sometimes so
ae cannot be thrown
len an alarm is given,
\y in movement, and
amst the water to aid
lundering plash,
not enjoy alone this
9 sought with equal
of the lams or gull —
!, and the snow-I Td
ites admiration by ils
: the elegance of its
lat of its appearance,
xury, while it utters a
But all these raven-
have a terrible rival
lucus), who equals in
I all in power and
this, the Dutch have
ur^omaster; but that
, his power in a very
inged representative,
ting from the weaker
possess, and esteems
iring high in the air,
acles, whence, having
aorsel, he darts down
ler fulmar, snow-bird,
ign the coveted prize,
urgomaster species is
ed to the multitudes

nding tlie sww, the
il, and often beautiful

ANIMAL LIFE.

75

birds, traverse in vast flights all the northern seas
and ^waters. Like the rest of the anserei, tliey have
all webbed feet, consisting of branching toes con-
nected by a membrane, which enable them to move
with equal facility in the water as on land. The
swan, with its stately plumage, frequents chiefly the
inland seas and lakes, of which it has been called
the peaceful monarch. The goose, a less elegant
but more useful species, migrates in vast numbers
every spring to breed on the Arctic shores and islands,
and affords a valuable supply of food to all the
northern settlements. The Hudson's Bay Company
salt three or four thousand annually for winter. The
Indians celebrate the month of their arrival under
the title of the goose-moon. Migration during the
rigorous season, resorted to even by quadrupeds, be-
comes the still more natural resource of the feathered
creation. Even in September the flocks of geese,
winging their way to the southward, supplied a
warning to Captain Franklin of the winter that was
closing in upon him.

The duck reaches a still higher latitude than the
goose, and endures still severer cold. Great flocks
of that species called the eider arrive in spring on the
most northern shores of Greenland. All the birds
that fly over the frozen seas are provided by Nature
with a rich and ample plumage, and a lining of soft
dovm beneath; and the people of these countries
And the skins of birds, with the feathers inside, to
be one of their most comfortable anicles of clothing.
But the down of all the known species of birds is
surpassed in fineness by that of the eider, the deli-
cious softness of which fits it for the couch of ki'igs.
A pound of eider-dovm, according to Sir Charles
Giesecke, is usually sold for a pound sterling.
The finest is that which the birds pluck from their
breast to line the interior of the nest. TTie Green-
lander, watching his time, removes this precious
lining as soon as it is completed, whereupon the

w

TXOSTABLE LIFE.

poor animals form a second, destined to share the
same fate.

Among other Arctic birds are the terns, which on
the American coast are so very numerous, that an
island has been named from the immense floclcs with
which it is annually filled. They produce the most
delicate eegs of any water-bird. We may add the
colymbus fguillemot), whose skin aifords a peculiarly
comfortable clothing, — the tringa (sandpiper), — the
charadrius (plover), — the tetrao (grovse, and ptarmi-
gan), of wliich a species, much v^ued i account of
the delicacy of its flesh, occupies th interior of
Greenland. All ptarmigans change leir colour
from mottled gray or brown in summer, to pure
white during the winter months. According to De
Reste, the dark summer covering is shed at the end
of autumn, and a new plumage shoots out, which is
white, till darkened by the warmth of the following
spring—or, to speak more accurately, a partial moult
takes place in autumn, during which all the coloured
feathers are thrown out, and their places supplied by
white ones, while in spring most of these white
plumes are again cast, to make room for others,
adorned by the licher and more varied hues of sum-
mer. Captain Parry saw this last change go on so
rapidly among the grouse on Melville Island, as to
be perceptible from day to day.

The vegetable world does not, in this dark and
outer boundary of the earth, possess such an import-
ant and commanding character as the animal. Na-
ture, without departing wholly from her system and
laws, could not clothe with verdure and vegetation a
soil which for nine months of the year is frozen as
hard as rock, and covered with snow many feet
deep. The plants of more genial climates, indeed,
when inserted during the short and bright summer,
spring up and wear for some time a promising ap-
pearance ; but they are all nipped by the untimely w jn-
iejr. Still, Nature, in the northern repions, especially

- -'■ nwnriiiiOiin

WlHWliJWilliI

FE.

estined to share the

the terns, which on
' numerous, that an
immense flocks with
ly produce the most
We may add the
1 affords a peculiarly
fa (sandpiper), — the
(grouse, and ptarmi-
alued I account of
}ies th interior of
lange leir colour
n siunmer, to pure
. According to De
r is shed at the end
shoots out, which is
ith of the following
itely, a partial moult
lich all the colouied
r places supplied by
ost of these white
e room for others,
mried hues of sum-
ist change go on so
ilville Island, as to

>t, in this dark and
less such an import-
is the animal. Na-
om her system and
ure and vegetation a
e year is frozen as
li snow many feet
al climates, indeed,
ind bright summer,
mo a promising ap-
)y the untimely win-
1 regions, especiidly

VBOS'B&BLB LITE.

n

fa those approaching the Arctic zone, does employ
resources similar to those by which she cherishes
animal life. The fir, the pme, and other trees of
these climates, on being pierced, distil, not the balmy
and fragrant gums of Arabia and India, but rich,
thick, coarse juices, by which their interior heat has
been preserved, and which, in the shape of pitch, tar,
and turpentine, serve many valuable purposes of
commerce. Through the cherishing influences of
these juices, the lakes of North America are bordered
with tall dark forests, which aflTord to the agricultu-
ral countries an inexhaustible supply of valuable
timber. Even their gloomy foliage, while the forests
of the south are every autumn strewing the groimd
with their faded leaves, brave through the winter all
the fury of the northern tempest. Before reaching,
however, the inclement sky of the Arctic bOunoary,
this magnificent growth decays. Trees that had
been the pride of the forest dwindle into meager and
stunted shrubs. Beyond the Polar circle, these
monarchs of the wood, if they appear, rise only to
the height of a few feet, throwingout lateral branches.
On Melville peninsula, dwarf-willow and the andro-
meda tetragona almost alone afforded to the Esqui-
maux a scanty supply of wood for their arms and
utensils. Considerable quantities of drift-timber are,
however, frequently found along many of the barren
shores of the Arctic regions, supposed to have floated
originally from the mouths of the Siberian and other
northern rivers.

The plants which abound most m these dreary
chmates belong to the tribes of mosses and lichens,
the cryptogamxa of Linnaeus, the acotyledonea of Jus-
sieu. The meager vegetation vrith which the Arctic
■• surface is covered thus appears rather as if it were
an exudation from the rocks than the produce of the
soil. Yet the moss and lichen, which form the pre-
vailing features, are not only copiously produced,
but oossess a nutritious and salutary quality, not dis-
G8

•aMMlill

78

TSORTABtX UnS.

(tiayed in more fortunate regions. One species of
iclwn (L. rangiferimts) rorma, as it were, the main
staff of life to tlie Laplander; it supports the rein-
deer, and the reindeer supports him. The lichen
of Iceland, boiled in soupi or even converted into
bread, is to the natives a substantial part of their
subsistence. Farther north, where the depth of the
mow, and the continuance of frost, drive the inhabit-
ants to the shore and to animal food, these vegeta-
bles still afford support to the deer and to the other
quadrupeds which they use as food. It ia even with
a peculiar species of moss that they trim their lamps.
Taejungut or mushroom, which draws nourishment
without the aid of a proper root, and the Jilices at
ferns, which consist only of one spreading leaf, the
middle rib of which forms all their stalk, while their
slender roots spread under the ground, — these find
the means of existence even in Greenland.

The order cdga, and especially its genus fucus,
comprehending nearly all the variety of marine
botany, grows in vast abundance on the northern
shores. These rude plants, which have little or no
distinction of stem, root, or leaves, and whose fructifi-
cation is often included vrithin the substance of the
frond, cover the Greenland coast with submarine mea-
dows. The conferva, too, with their numerous fila-
ments, spring up in profusion.

A few plants, not belonging to this imperfect order
of vegetation, embellish, during the short summer
gleam, the northern fields. Under the bright influ-
ence of the sun at this season, indeed, some of the
moat beautiful among the floral tribe expand their
iietals. The ranunculus and anemone display their
rich and varied tints ; several species of saxifrage put
forth their flowers ; and the yellow poppy has even
a gaudy appearance — so that the genua papaver,
wmch enriches the plains of Hindostan, is among the
last to expire under the snows of the Pole. The
nobl«r fruits do not ripen under this uingefiisd aky »

mmmmimm

n.

vt. One species of
18 it were, the main
t Bupports the rein-
I him. The lichen
even converted into
:antial part of their
ere the depth of the
)8t, drive the inhabit-

food, these vegeta*
ser and to the other
tod. It ia even with
iiey trim their lamps.
I draws nourishment
t, and the ^/icej or

spreading leaf, the
eir stalk, while their
ground, — these find
Greenland.
lly its genus Juats,

variety of marine
ice on the northern
ch have little or no
I, and whose fructifi-
;he substance of the
with submarine mea>
their numerous fila-

this imperfect order
f the short summer
ler the bright influ-
ndeed, some of the
tribe expand their
imone display their
cies of saxifrage put
ow poppy has even
the genua papaver,
lostan, is among the
of the Pole. The
this imgedial sky^

TEOITABIK UVX.

79

yet shrubs producing delicious berries appear on the
borders, at least, of the Arctic zone in matchK«s
profusion. The northern Indians consider the fru't
of a bush called the arottia mcdU as the most deli-
cious food ; besides which they have the strawberry,
raspberry, red whortleberry, and various others.
Several of these are covered beneath the first snows
of winter, which are supposed to mellow them, and
which, when dissolved by spring, show the berries
still hanging on the branches, while the buds of all
the others are bursting, — the whole producing a deli-
cious impression unknown to those who have not
witnessed the desolation which immediately pre-
ceded.

These bleak climates enjoy a precious boon in the
plants which act as an antidote to scurvy, and which
defy the most severe cold of the Arctic aone. The
cochkaria, a thick tufted juicy plant, of extreme fe-
cundity, is emphatically called icurvy grass ; and the
different species of sorrel, especially the rumex dtgy-
nuB, were found by Captain Parry flourishing under
the snow at the very farthest limit of vegetation.

The extraordinary phenomenon of red mow ob-
served by Capt. Hoss and our other Arctic voyagers,
naturally excited tlie greatest interest both at home
and abroad. This singular aspect of a substance,
with which we never fail to associate an idea of the
purest and most radiant whiteness, has been ascer-
tained to result from an assemblage of very minute
vegetable bodies, belonging to the class of cryptoga-
mic plants and the natural order called alea. They
form the species named protococctu mWu oy Agardh,
which is synonymous with the uredo nivalis of
Mr. Bauer. This plant seems by no means pecu-
liar to the Arctic snows, but occurs on limestone
rocks in the island of Lismore in Scotland, as well
as among the Alpine and other countries of Eu-
rope. Saussure observed it so long ago as in the
year 1760 on Mount Breveu in Switzerland, and «>

TCOITABtl Lira.

frequently after that period that he expresses his sur
prise at its having escaped the notir-e of Scheuchzer
and other learned travellers. Ramond, whose ob-
servations so beautifully combine the precision of
acience with the perception of the picturesque, found
red »now on the mountains of the Pyrenees, as did
Sommerlcldt, 'he botanist, on those of Norway. In
the year 1818, vast masses of the same substance
overspread both the Apennines and the Italian Alps;
and it is recorded, then ten years prior to thatpenod
the virinity of lielluno and Feltri were covered to
tl.e depth of twenty centimetres with rose-coloured
snow.

According to Captain Ross, the Arctic mountains
on which he ol)served the red snow are about 600
feet high, and extend eight miles in length. The
depth to which the colour penetrated has been vari-
ously stated by different observers. Some found
that it descended many feet beneath the surface,
while others never ascertained that it spread beyond
one or two inches. There is -no reason to suppose
that the colouring matter itself, as well as the snow,
is a meteorologiral product, although Humboldt cer-
tainly mention^ u shnwer of red hail which fell at
Paramo de Guanacos, in South America. Moisture
is no doubt essential to the production of this plant,
as it is to that of all the other algffi ; but when once
formed, it seems to possess the power of continued
and increasin^vcgetation,evenoverrocksand stones,
•with only an occasional supply of fluid. The propa-
gatioii of minute vegetable forms, like the increase
of animalcules, is effected, under favourable circum
stances, with a rapidity of developement truly asto-
nishing i and the most probable conjectiure seems to
be, that snow is not the natural situation of the proto-
C0CCU3 nivalis, but that, from its great tenacity of life,
it not only preserves its vitality on that chUly and
ungenial surface, but, during the partial thawing of
uie snow, continues to increase and multiply. If

ri.

he expresses his snr
lot ice of Scheuchzer
Ratnond, whose ob-
ne the precision of
le picturesque, found
he Pyrenees, as did
ose of Norway. In
the same substance
ind the Italian Alps;
8 prior to that penod
;ri were covered to
I with rose-coloured

[le Arctic mountains
snow are about 600
les in length. The
ated has biBen vari-
vers. Some found
eneath the surface,
lat it spread beyond
D reason to suppose
18 well as the snow,
)ugh Humboldt cer-
1 hail which fell at
^erica. Moisture
iction of this plant,
BTffi ; but when once
x>wer of continued
'er rocks and stones,
r fluid. The propa-
8, like the increase
favourable circum
)pement truly asto-
ionjecture seems to
:uation of the proto-
reat tenacity of Ufe,
on that chilly and
partial thawing of
and multiply. If

MMW«|IP*PW

TIOITABLS ttn.

81

such be the case, it is easy to suppose how a wide
expanse may be covered with this red sufTiision,
during the dissolving and occasional flowing of the
tmowy waters. When once established among the
I'temaJ snows of the north, it becomes more nume-
rous than the sands of the ocean ; and, increasing in
density from year to year, at last presents to the as-
tonished and admiring navisrator a sight more sur-
prising in its r(!alily tlian any of the fabled wonders
of an Arabian tale.
A singular coinri icnce has been observed by bo-

tanists to exist I
flower. Thus tl
thyllis vulnari'
and many of
show a decider '
petals when tli.
stone. " How

n a white ground and a red

neli and brilliant variety of an-

>nly fdiind on a chalky surface;

r orders of flowenng plants

ify to produce red-coloured

,'• A to spring up on white lime-

— - -■• .iiuch more forcibly, then," says

Agardh, " must this law uperate upon plants like the
algae, in which colour is an essential part." That
excess of light produces the peculiar, or at least pre-
vailing, colour of the snow-plant, may be said to be
demonstrated by this singular fact, that the red
colour gradually changes to green as it occuis more
or less secluded from the action of light among the
fissures of rocks, or beneath the hollows or under-
surfaces of stones. This being the case, it will ap-
pear the less incomprehensible that the same plant
which is produced amid the snows of the Arctic re-
gions, or the highly-elevated Alps of more southern
countries, should be occasionally detected, even dur-
ing the heats of summer, covering the brilliant white
limestone of the plains. In the last-named locality
it was discovered by the Baron Wranrier in the pro-
vince of Nerike, and named by him lepraria kerme-
nna ; and the two supposed species have been since
ascertained to be one and the same.

In concluding our notice of this singular subject,
we may observe, that when the warmth of the return

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AKCDBNT VOTAOES.

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CHAPTER III.

Ancient Foyages to the ^Torih.

The voyages to the north, undertaken prior to the
great era of maritime enterprise and the invention
of the compass, were few in number, and scarcely
extended into those circumpolar regions which form
the special subject of the present voliune. It will
be enough, therefore, to take a rapid sketch of the
steps by which discovery proceeded towards these
remote and almost inaccessible quarters.

The Mediterranean, the shores of which consti*
tuted the first civilized portion of the west, was the
quarter where European navigation originated. As
Tjrre, situated in the depth of that sea, was the
earliest seat of commerce, Carthage, the daughter of
Tyre, was doubtless the first state which undertook
any extensive discoveries upon the ocean, lliese,
however, were shrouded in deep mystery, prompted
by the jealous and monopolizing temper of this
people, once so powerful and opulent. The classic
writers give only some slight and detached notices
of the voyage of Himilco, who appears to have sailed
along the exterior coasts of Spain and France, and
to have reached the. southern extremity of Britain.
This was probably only the first of a series of
voyages carried on with the view of procuring tin, a
metal rare and valued in those days. The Cassi-
terides, or islands of tin, which appear to be Corn-
wall and the Scilly Isles combined together, are a
mysterious and celebrated name among the primi-
tive authors of Europe.

The most distinguished of the Greek navigators to

•«

AHCnUT T0TA0X8.

the north was Pytheas, a citizen of Marseilles, a
commercial Greek colony, which, favoured by its
situation, had become tho chief emporium or the
commerce of Britain, already of some importance.
This commefce, however, was carried on, not by tho
ocean, but by a land carriage through Gaul. Pytheas
seems the first who, inspired by motives of intelligen'
curiosity, endeavoured by a maritime route to reach
the British coast, and to penetrate to the remotest
extremities of the north. Our knowledge of this
voyage is indeed imperfect, since it is almost en-
tirely due to Strabo,who, while he relates it, derides
the whole as a plpable forgery; yet the very par-
ticulars on which he founds this charge go far to es-
tablish the contrary. Pytheas appears to have passed
the Straits, and sailed along the western coasts of
France and Spain, which, from previous misconcep-
tion, he confounds together. Thence he seems to
nave directed his couree through the English Chan-
nel, and along the eastern coasts of England and
Scotland, till he reached the northern extremity of
the island. Not content with this achievement, he
continued to sail onwards into the depths of ocean,
till in six days he arrived at Thule, an island, where
it appeared to him that perpetual light reigned at
midsummer through the day and night. Immediately
beyond, his progress was arrested by a barrier of a
peculiar nature, by something which was neither
earth, air, nor sky, but a compound of all the three,
forming a thick viscid substance, through which it
was impossible to penetrate. These statements have
afforded much advantage to the skeptical adversaries
of Pytheas ; yet the summer days of Shetland are
re»'Jy very long, and the thick and gloomy mists,
with which the northern sea is often loaded, might
make a peculiar impression on one who had ventured
into this unknown ocean, so far beyond the limit of
former naviration : they might make him prone to
belieTe that he had arrived at the farthest boundaries

. .■^■--.•jM£ft>r-i:'.'/-*V

8.

of Marseilles, a
. favoured by its
emporium of the
some importance,
ried on, not by the
h Gaul. Py theas
lives of intelligen»
tne route to reach
i to the remotest
nowledge of this

it is almost en-
relates it, derides
yet the very par-
arge go far to es-
ars to have passed
estem coasts of
vious misconcep-
nee he seems to
le English Chan-
of England and
em extremity of

achievement, he
depths of ocean,
an island, where
light reigned at
ht. Immediately
by a barrier of a
lich was neither
of all the three,
through which it
; statements have
)tlcal adversaries
of Shetland are
d gloomy mists,
3n loaded, might
^ho had ventured
ond the limit of
ce him prone to
thest boundaries

AKCBNT TOYAaCfl.

81

of natnre. It seems difficult, however, to suppose,
with Bougainville, that the voyage of Pytheas should
ever have extended as far as Iceland ; but in another
direction he appears to have penetrated to the Baltic,
and also to have brought home some correct accounts
of ite shores, then known to the people on the Medi-
terranean almost solely by the qualities of the amber

v!U,u ^"' >mported from thence.
-. I /"y^*??® °^ Pytheas, though apparently quite
authentic, did not lead to any change in the channels
or MassyUan trade. It was found probably both
cneaper and more commodious to transport the pro-
ductions of Britain through Gaul, than to convey
mem by means of such a lengthened and perilous
voyage. The only farther additions to ancient
Knowledge respecting the northern seas were made
Dv the Romans, who, in order to conquer, were
«„j*^!.**,^° ^^J*^"® *« «arth. Agricola, before
undertaking the campaign which was to reduce
Scotland into a province, sent fleets to explore its
most northern shores and bays. The Romans, how-
ever, never appear to have sent naval expeditions,
ftavmg discoveiy alone in view, to the north, or per-
haps to any other quarter. Their delineation of
Scotland Itself is excessively rude ; and though they
nad traced the shores of Europe eastward as far as
liU8sia» Scandinavia appeared to them raly as a
cluster of large islands in the North Sea.

In the declme of the Roman empire, that countiTr
rormeriy almort unknown, became the seat of a most
ronnidable and extensive naval po^er. Norway,
under the temUe dominion of Harold the Fair'
liaired, and Denmark, under Gorm and Canute, sent
forth fleeu which piDaged all the maritime territories
Of Jiun^, and reduced many of them to temporary or
even final subjection. Their expeditions, however,
were from the north, not to the north. Their objects
were, not science, but ravage and conquest. The
Kumc tribes, indeed, were not without some tincture
H

r

86

ANCIENT rOVAOES.

of letters and poetiy; but theii' togas, or poetical
chronicles, celebrate only the exploits of their mightv
sea-kings and rovers, not any theme connected witn
commerce and the arts of peace. Yet a communi-
cation with these tribes enabled Alfred, an iUustrious
monarch, who shone so bright in that dark age, to
collect information respecting those extremities of
the earth which had remained unknown to the
Greeks and Romans. Ohthere, a chief who had
come from the upper tracts of Norway, afforded
some intelligence even respecting a voyage under-
taken along the Arctic shores of Europe.

Ohthere was considered a rich man in his own
country, being owner of twenty oxen, twenty sheep,
and six himdred tame reindeer. Fired by a spirit of
liberal research, he undertook a voyage to discover
the regions which lay to the north of the high latitude
in which his domain was situated. He sailed six
days in that direction, which appears to have brought
him 10 the North Cape, the fartnest point of Europe ;
he then turned three days towards the east, and
afterward five days to the south. All this while the
land on his right was desolate, traversed only by a
few wandering shepherds and hunters, of Finnish
race. Then, however, he reached a large river, the
opposite side of which was somewhat densely inha*
bited by the Biarmians, or people of northern Russia,
who showed such a hostile disposition as obliged him
to return. The fishery of the horse-whale (walnie)
was found to be carried on here with such advantage,
that many were afterward induced to foUow the
same course. Forster delineates the navigation of
Ohthere as reaching to the interior of the "Wtaie Sea )
but we do not think the period of eight days from
the North Cape could have carried him farther than
the river Kola, which agrees also with the supposi-
tion of his having been arrested on the frontier of
Russian Lapland.

The direction in which the Northmen sought rich

tga», or poetical
ts of their mighty
e connected with
Yet a communi-
red, an illustrious
that dark age, to
e extremities of
inknown to the
chief who had
forway, afforded
a voyage under-
jrope.

man in his own
m, twenty sheep,
ired by a spirit of
fage to discover
: the high latitude
. He sailed six
s to have brought
point of Europe ;
Is the east, and
\.ll this while the
rorsed only by a
Iters, of Finnish
i large river, the
lat densely inha*
northern Russia,
Dn as obliged him
B-whale (walrus)
t such advantage,
d to foUow the
le navigation of
if the Vmte Sea }
eight days from
him farther than
ith the supposi-
n the frontier of

tmen sougjit rkh

kingdoms to plunder and tp conquer was always the
south. To quit their bleak regions in search of
others still more bleak, would have been wholly
foreign to their views ; yet, as the sea was covered
with their sails, chance and tempest sometimes drove
them in that other direction. In 861, Nadodd,
during a piratical excursion, unexpectedly discovered
Iceland. This country had little to tempt a nation
of freebooters ; yet so it chanced, that there existed
materials for its colonization. Harold, in making
himself master of all Norway, had crushed the rights
and sway of numerous petty chieftains, and had thus
created a large body of malecontents. He was will-
ing to grant, and they to accept, a permanent refuge
in this frozen clime. Numerous bodies of emigrants
proceeded successively to Iceland, where they were
organized into a free and independent community.
They even crossed to the opposite coast of Green-
land, and fonne(i settlements, which for some time
were tolerably flourishing, though they have since
either perished or lost all communication with Ice-
land. During the eleventh century, however, chance
or enterprise led Greenland navigators southward to
another coast, which they called Vinland, and which
has been very generally believed to be America,
^ouffh, aftar a careful examination of the authorities
on wnich this opinion rests, we have been led to sup-
pose that the new country was merely a more south-
ern point of Greei.ian((. The limits of the present
work, however, will not admit any detailed account
of these settlements.

The republican cities of Italy, during the middle
ages, rekmdled the extinct spirit of commerce and
navigation, which they raised to a degree of prospe-
rity equalling probably that attained by Tyre and
Carthage during the height of their ancient glory.
These cities reached a measure of power and opu-
knce which enabled them to rank with the greatest
kingdoms. Their trade, however, lay chiefly within

..■.^^'^•WWH3^^"~

^mmmmmm

88

ANOirarT VOTAOXB.

the Mediterranean, especially ita eautem border,
whither were brought over land or by the Red Sea
the commodities of India. Few were disposed to
quit this bright and ftolden track to fece the tern-
pests of the ocean and of the north ; yet were thei«
not wanting a few adventurous spirits who undertook
a"^ were able to penetrate into these remote seas.

Nlcolo Zeno, an eminent and noble merchant of
Venice, undertook, in 1380, a voyage to Flanders,
during which a tempest drove him upon a coast which
he calls Friesland. The position of this unknown
shore has been a subject of controversy ; and some
have even had recourse to the h]rpothesis of its havin,(
been since swallowed up by the ocean. When, how
ever, we find that Friesland was in fact a cluster of
telanda, to which are applied the names, Talas, Broas,
Bres, Iscant, easily converted into Zeal, Brassa,
Unst, we may conclude with Forster that it is piti-
bably one and the same with the Shetland Isles.
Zeno, being cast ashore in a state completely desti-
ttite, was received with great kindness by the Prince
Zichmni, whose name seems to be a corruption of
Sinclair. Finding Zeno eminently skilled in naval
affairs, he reposed the highest confidence in him, and
placed under his command various naval expeditions.
So pleased was the Venetian with the favour of this
northern potentate, that he invited his brother An-
tomo to join him. The only voyage, however, which
seems to have carried him far to the north was one
to Greenland, and he gives a somewhat romantic
account of a religious establishment formed in that
country. The convent was built on the side of a
hill, whence burst a copious boiling spring, whose
waters enaUed the monks to vanquisb all uie evils
of the climate; when spread on the fVjzeh soil, they
api^ied it for the production of tne most useAd heibs
uidculinaiyplants; when introduced i>ito the houses,
mey warmed with it the apartments, and cooked the
victuals. Thev were likewise supplied from the

tub.

■■iaMdIiailMiiMWst

ft»iliTarfili'(>ril

esbtem border,
by the Red Sea
^ere disposed to
o foce the tem-
■ yet were there
b who undertook
B remote seas,
ble merchant of
tge to Flanders,
on a coast which
if this imknown
Brsy; and some
ssis of its having
n. When, how
fact a cluster of
e8,Talas,BroaB,
9 Zeal, Brassa,
r that it is pro-
Shetland Isles.
}mpletely desti-
Bs by the Prince
a corruption of
skilled in naval
mce in him, and
val escpeditions.
e favour of this
lis brother An-
however, which
north was one
iwhat romantic
formed in that
n the side of a
spiin?, whose
d) all die evils
''jzeii soil, they
wt usefbl herbs
l>ito the houses,
and cooked the
>lied from the

ANcicirr roTAOEs.

89

country with abundance of fish, reindeer, and wild
fowl; and vessels from Norway brought to them the
luxuries of life- Zeno undertook other voyages in a
different direction, which have even been supposed
to reach as far as America ; but we incline to think
that the passages which have suggested this conclu-
sion are either misunderstood or mterpolated.

Quirini, another Italian nobleman, in 1431, under-
took a similar voyage, and was driven by a similar
tempest on the coast of Norway. The southern
mariners arrived in the most miserable plight, having
lost the ship and been obliged to take to their boats,
after the greater part of the crew had perished of
hunger, cold, and especially thirst. They were thrown
first on a small uninhabited island, where, having
erected two tents, and found a large fish, they con-
trived to support life. After some days, a fisherman
and two boys came In a boat to the island, and were
at first terrified by the sight of the strangers ; but,
by courteous address, were soon prevailed upon to
take with them two of the sailors, Gerard of Lyons,
and Cola of Otranto. They rowed to a village on
the neighbouring island of Uost, where they met the
kindest reception. As it chanced to be Sunday, the
priests exhorted the congregation to afibrd all the
assistance in their power to these unfortunate stran-
gers. Six boats were fitted out, the appearance of
which dispelled all the fears of Quirini, and filled him
with joy. The chief native now gave a cordial wel-
come, and having set before him some rye bread and
beer, invited him to the habitations on the island.
The Italians were there received and treated with
uninterrupted kindness during a stay of three months,
in which time they completely recovered from all
their distress and fatigue. The natives of this little
island, about 130 in number, subsisted on stock-fish,
which they dried and carried to the market of Ber-
gen, where purchasers arrived from Germany and
other countries; also on sea-fowl, which in vast

Ha

W NOHTR-XAMT TOTAaiS.

flocks covered all the minx)unding rocks, and even
buat on the sides of the houses. Many of these
birds were so tame, that when the natives walked up
to their nests, they were wont to step off, allow two
°' *'"^*fi^8r» to be taken, and then resume their
seat. The people were most strict in their attend-
ance on religious duties, and carried their resigna-
tion to the will of Providence so very far, that they
rejoiced and sometimes oven held a festival at the
death of near relations. The Italians, accustomed
to the feehngs of southern jealousy, were extremely
surprised to see all the members of a family sleep-
ing together in one apartment, which they them-
selves were admitted to share, without the remotest
feeling of improDriety. In summer, both sexes
walked naked to the nearest pool, and bathed, pro-
miscuously, all in perfect innocence, and v/ithout
awakening any suspicion,— a practice indeed which
pretty generally prevails in the northern countries
of Europe at the present day.

The summer having arrived, Quirini took occasion
to go with the amiual ship to Drontheim, and, travel-
ling thence by land to Sweden, he found a vessel
bound for Rostock, in which he finally returned to
Italy by way of England.

CHAPTER IV.

Foyages in Search of a J^orth-Ea$t Pa$sag9.

T^B latter part of the iifteenth century may be
fixed upon as that period in the history of the worid
when mantune discovery proceeded on the greatest
scale, with the most splendid results, and the most
extensive influence on the condition of numkind.

T

"W^r

IIS.

rocks, and even
Many of these
natives walked up
tep off, allow two
hen resume their
It in their attend-
ed their resigna-
ery far, that they
I a festival at the
iana, accustomed
r, were extremely
f a family sleep-
vhich they them-
lout the remotest
mer, both sexes
and bathed, pro-
ice, and \7ith0ut
ice indeed which
orthem countries

rini took occasion
lieim, and, travel-
e found a vessel
nally returned to

frORTR-tAST TOTAOZt.

»1

hH Passage.

century may be
ory of the worid
1 on the greatest
ts, and the most

iOB of m«nkil^«^-

" Tiii'Tr-'ii I

Travellers and naviprators of the present day have
displayed an enterprise which nothin|r could exceed ;
but there remained for their efforts only tlie dark and
distant boundaries of ocean, or the interior of baiba-
rous continents. On the contrary, vast kingdoms,
new worids, regions teeming with unbounded wealth,
rewarded the daring career of Oama and Columbus.
A new direction was given to human ambition and
industry ; and the discovery of distant regions became
not only a commercial speculation with individuals,
but a grand object of national policy.

England, one of the most powerfW kingdoms of
Europe, had always shown herself ready to embark
m every scheme of utility : yet she was not alto-
gether ripe for these extensive undertakings. The
nations of Southern Europe were then nearly a cen-
tury in advance of those ruder states which lay be-
yond the Alps and the Pyrenees. Venice, Genoa,
Seville, Lisbon, not London or Amsterdam, were the
great schools of commerce and navigation. The
habits and ideas of the feudal system, its proud in-
dolence and contempt of mechanical pursuits, were
only in the course of being gradually superseded ;
and the mercantile interest possessed as yet only a
small share of that pre-eminent importance to which
it has since attained.

Henry VIL, amid these unfavourable circum-
stances, and with nothing of the heroic or adven-
turous in his composition, possessed yet qualities
which enabled him to appreciate the importance of ma-
ritime undertaking. Evenr thing which affbrded
any promise of filhng his coders was congenial to the
teste of that monarch ; and for this reason he showed
himself ready to meet the aspiring views of Colum-
bus with greater promptitude than any other monarch
of the age. That great navigator, after vain solicita-
tion at the courts of Spain and Portugal, sent hia
brother Bartholomew to make propositions to Henry,
Which were veiy readily accepted; but before hu

*i NORTH-EABT TOTAOI*.

messenfjer returned to Spain, Columbus, under the
auspicea of Isabella, was already crossing the At-
lantic. It was afterward with the full sanction and
favour of Henry, though not at his expense, that John
Cabot made that important voyage in which he dis-
covered Newfoundland, an island which, though not
fitted for culture, has become the well-known seat of
the greatest fishery in the world. He was also the
first European who came into contact with any part
of the mauiland of America. That prince afterward
granted to John Elliot and Thomas Ashurst of Bris-
tol, with several natives of Portugal, letters-patent,
to undertake the discovery of lands and regions un-
known ; but the result of their expedition is not re-
corded.

Notwithstanding these proceedings, England had
not yet thoroughly imbibed the true spirit of mari-
time enterprise. It had been kindled at a foreign
shrine, an(l, when deprived of external support, gra-
dually languished. This flame became nearly ex-
tinct during the long reign of Henry VIII. That
prince, full of bustle, needy of money, and not de-
void of intelligence, might have been supposed rather
prompt to embark in such enterprises ; but, involved
m so many disputes, domestic and theological, and
studying, though with little skill, to hold the balance
between the two great continental rivals, Charles
and Francis, he was insensible to the glory and ad-
vantages to be derived from maritime expeditions.
Sebastian Cabot, the son of the navigator just named,
in order to obtain employment, was obliged to quit
England and repair to Spain, where he was received
with much favour, and spent the greater pan of his
life, either in attempts at discovery, or in a quiet re-
sidence at Seville, where he was consulted and re-
vered as a nautical oracle.

After a long slumber, the maritime genius of
England was suddenly roused. It burst forth under
8 young prince of hi^ hope and promise. In 1693,

T

ib.

Ai

*»

imbuB, under the
crossing the At*
full sanction and
xpenae, that John
in which he dis-
rliich, tliough not
ell-known seat of
He was also the
ict with any part
prince afterward
Ashurst of Bris-
il, letters-patent,
I and regions un-
iditionis not re-

gs, England had
3 spirit of mari-
ied at a foreign
nal support, gra-
came nearly ex-
nryVIII. That
ley, and not de-
i supposed rather
;s; but, involved
theological, and
liold the balance
I rivals, Charles
le glory, and ad-
nie expeditions,
ator just named,
obliged to quit
le was received
ater part of his
or in a quiet re-
insulted and re-
time genius of
arst forth under
•mise. In 16$3,

NonTH'CAST T0YA0I8.

03

the sixth year of the reign of Edward VI., the mer-
chants of London, among whom are said to have been
" men of great wisdom and gravity," felt a sudden
and extreme ardour in the cause of discovery.
There chanced at that critical moment to be in Lon-
don no less a person than the younger Cabot, who had
aided his father in the discovery of North America,
and who, as already mentioned, had afterward, while
residing abroad, become an oracle in every thing con-
nected with navigation. With him the merchants en-
tered into deep consultation, and in conjunction with
him formed the general plan of a voyage, having
in view to reach, by way of the north and north-cas^
the opulent and celebrated regions of India and Ca-
thay. The obstacles to such an undertaking could
not yet be fully appreciated. No just idea could at
that time be formed of the immense breadth of Asia,
its extension towards the north, and the enormous
masses of ice with which its shores are encumbered.
The youthi\il monarch, whether he had any influ-
ence in inspiring this general ardour, or whether he
caught the flame from his people, showed certainly
the most eager interest in the cause. He had already
named Sebastian Cabot grand pilot of England, with
a salary, considerable in that age, of £166. It was
not by royal munificence, however, that the funds
were suppued for prosecuting this arduous enterprise.
An association, or senate, as it is called, was formod,
who Judged it most advisable to divide tlie concern
into shares of £38, by which means the sum of six
thousand pounds was easily raised, and employed
in the construction and equipment of three vessels
fitted for northern navigation. The preparations,
with a due regard to the formidable character and
length of the vojrage, were made on a scale of which
there had been ho previous example ; Cabot says,
"the like was never in any realm seen, used, or
known. The timbers were made of extraordinary
wtrsngth, by the best shipwrights; the keel was

I

"^•ssn:-— "^wfSBiF

04

K0RTH-EA8T VOVASES.

covered with thin sheets of lead, a contrivance then
practised for the first time, and since found most im-
portant ; provisions for eighteen months were put on
board. Cabot, though unable, probably from his age,
to accompany the expedition, drew out a series of
instructions, in which the whole conduct to be ob-
served by the officers and crew is minutely laid down.
He enjoins strict attention to private conduct and
morals ; that morning and evening prayers be read on
board each ship, either by the chaplain or master ;
that there be no " ribaldry or. ungodly talk, dicing,
carding, tabling, nor other devilish games." He pro-
hibits all acts tending to the breach of discipline,
" conspiracies, part-takings, factions, false tales,
which be the very seeds and fruits of contention."
Naval subordination being in that age only imper-
fectly established, and the tendency to mutiny ex-
tremely strong, these exhortations were most neces-
sary and important. All questions respecting the
steering Of the ship were to be decided by a council
of twelve, the captain having only a double vote.
Persons skilled in writing were, in each ship, to keep
a daily record of the course of navigation, the ce^
lestial observations, the aspect of the lands along
which they sailed, with every other interesting oc
currence. The masters of the different ships were to
meet weekly, compare these records, and, after com-
bining them with each other, enter tiiem in a com-
mon leger. Directions are even given for keeping
weekly accounts, maintaining the cook-room and
other parts of the ship clean, and preventing any
liquor from being spilled upon them. Tlie natives of
the countries which they visited were " to be consi-
dered advisedly, and treated with gentleness and
courtesy, without iny disdain, laughing, or con-
tempt." Particular endeavours were to be made by
fair means to allure some one on board, where he
was to be well clothed and treated, so as to allure
others; but we cannot so much s^plaud the hint.

T

MikiM

■MHHWMMiMUi^

♦ f

lass.

a contrivance then
ice found moat im-
lonths were put on
bably from his age,
w out a series of
conduct to be ob«
oinutely laid down,
ivate conduct and
prayers be read on
iplain or master;
^odly talk, dicing,
games." He pro-
lach of discipline,
tions, false tales,
ts of contention."
t age onlyimper-
icy to mutiny ex-
were most neces-
ins respecting the
:ided by a council
ly a double vote,
each ship, to keep
lavigation, the ce.^
' the lands along
er interesting oc
;rent ships were to
Is, and, after com>
* Uiem in a com-
o^ven for keeping
a cook-room ana
i preventing any
.. The natives of
ere " to be consi-
h gentleness and
lugning, or con-
sre to bie made by
board, where he
1, BO as to allure
B^plaud the hint.

I

HiTiiittiri

NORTH-EAST T0TA0E8.

95

that " if he be made drunk with your wine or beer,
you shall know the secrets of his heart." The mari-
ners are exhorted, however, to use the utmost cir-
cumspection in their dealings with these strangers,
and it invited to dine with any lord or ruler, to go
weU armed, and in a posture of defence. The
liveries furnished to the sailors were to be carefully
kept by the mercantile agents, and to be worn only
when their captain, considered it an object to show
them "in good array for the advancement and
honour of the voyage." He warns the mariners not
to be too much alarmed when they saw the natives
dressed in lions' and bears' skins, with long bows and
arrows, as this formidable appearance was often as-
sumed merely to inspire terror. However, he seems
to suggest a still more chimerical fear, when he tells
them, that there are persons armed jvith bows, who
swim naked, in various seas, havens, and rivers,
" desirous of the bodies of men, which they covet
for meat," and against whom diligent watch must
be kept night and day. We know not whether some
confused rumour of the shark and alligator had an
mfluence in suggesting this strange precaution.

The question was now to elect a fitting commander,
and many offers were made both by persons qualified
and unqualified. The choice for the supreme direc-
tion fell finally on Sir Hugh Willoughby. His re-
commendations, as mentioned by Adams, were high
birth, tall and handsome person, vsdiant conduct,
and skill in war,— merits probably enhanced by ad-
miration of the heroism which impelled him to ad-
ventuia himself in this new and daring career. Na
mention being made of nautical experience, it may
be suspected, that, amid so many brilliant qualities,
this most essential requisite was not duly tiucen ihto
account The command of the next vessel was given
to Richard Chancelor, «i ileve of Heniy Sidney, fa-
ther of Sir Philip, and who first gave lustre to that
great name. Sidney stood high in the favour of the

96

NORTH'KABT TOTAOM.

king, and was inspired with the most arfent zeal
for the promotion of the voyage. Chancelor is spe-
cially commended for " the many good parts of wit
m him, tending to inspire the most sanguine hopes
of his success.

AU preparations bemg thus completed. King Ed-
ward drew up a letter addressed to all " kings,
pnnces, rulers, judges, and governors of the earth :"
which, if composed by himself, certainly reflects very
considerable credit upon liis spirit and judgment.
He observes to these unknown potentates, that " the
great and Almighty God hath given unto mankind,
aDove aU other living creatures, such a heart and
desire, that every man desireth to join friendship
with other, to love and to be loved, also to give and
receive mutual benefits." He represents, therefore,
the duty of showing kindness to strangers, and espe.
cially to "merchants who wander about the worid,
se^ch both the land and the sea, to carry such good
and profitable things as are found in their countries
to remote regions and kingdoms." With this view.
It IS stated, that a valiant knight. Sir Hugh Wil-
loughby, and other trusty and faithful servants, had
departed from England. " We therefore desire you.
Hings and princes, and all other to whom there is
any power on the earth, to permit unto these, our ser-
vants, free passage by your regions and dominions,
for they shall not touch any thing of yours unwiUine
imto you." If such kindness were shown, he con-
cludes,—" We promise, by the God of all things that
Me co-.tauied in heaven, earth, and the sea, and by
the bfe and tranquillity of our kingdoms, that we
will with like humanity accept your servants, if at
any time they shall come to our kingdoms."

It was judged inexpedient to delay the depart^
nre of the vessels beyond the 10th of May, lest
tuey should be overtaken by winter in the northern
latitudes. All the members of the expedition took
a solemn and tender leave of their relations, kindnd.

M.

most ardent zeal

Chancelor is spe-

good parts of wit

«t sangfuine hopes

npleted, King Ed-
d to all "liings,
ore of the earth ;"
ainly reflects very
it and judgment,
entaies, that " the
en unto mankind,
such a heart and
o join friendship
li also to give and
resents, therefore,
rangere,andesp<>.
about the world,
> carry such good
in their countries
With this view,
;, Sir Hugh Wil-
lful servants, had
refore desire you,

0 whom there is
ito these, our ser-
s and dominions,
r yours unwilling
9 shown, he con-
of all things that

1 the sea, and by
igdoms, that we
ur servants, if at
Igdoms."

elay the depart-
th of May, lest
r in the northern
expedition took
ilaUonsiUndnd*

NORTH-SABT VOVAOES.

07

and " friends dearer than kindred," and were at their
station on the appointed day. The vessels early in
the morning dropped down from Ratcliffe to Green-
wich, where the court, and, as it were, the nation,
were assembled to witness and hail their departure.
The king himself was confined by iUness,but the
principal courtiere stood at the palace windows, the
rest of the household mounted the towers, while the
people in crowds lined the shore. The ships fired
their guns, causing the hills and valleys to resound ;
and " the mariners shouted in such sort, that the sky
rung with the noise thereof. In short, it was a very
triumph." The thought of the distant and unknown
seas mto which they were so perilously plunging
was either forgotten, jn this moment of exultation,
or served only to heighten its enthusiasm.

The expedition, after stopping a few days at Black-
wall, sailed down to Woolwich and Gravesend, and
thence to the coast of Essex, where contrary winds
unfortunately detained them till the 83d. Then, with
a favouring iple, they quitted England, and shaped
tlieir course mto the open expanse of the German
Sea. The sailors, however, fixed their eyes on their
native land as it gradually receded, and many, unac-
customed to these distant voyages, dropped a few
natural tears at the thought that they saw it perhaps
for the last time.

Sir Hugh was desirous of touching at the coast of
Scotland, but this was rendered impossible by con-
trary winds, which obliged him also to make fre-
ouent changes of course, " traversing and tracing
the seas." On the 14th July, he found himself in-
volved in that labyrinth of isles which stud the
coast of Norway between the 66th and 68th degrees
of latitude. The ships then bumd eastward and
out to sea, till they came to the larger range of
the Lofoot (Loffoden) Isles. The people, sub-
ject to Denmark, were gentle and courteous ; but
the English, evidently iirnorant of this coast, sought

98

WORTH-EAST TOYAOES.

in vain to learn how these islands were situated
with regard to tlie Norwegian shore. They pro-
ceeded onward to the large island of Seynam, or
Senjan, where they endeavoured without success to
.procure a pilot. They were now approaching the
northern cape of Europe, and saw before them the
abyss of the Arctic Ocean, stretching onwards to the
Pole, and soon to be iilled with shows and tempests.
In this critical conjuncture, Sir Hugh assembled
the commanders, and exhorted them to keep close
together ; but, in case of separation, appointed their
rendezvous at Wardhuys, understood to be the prin
cipal port of Finmark. The wisdom of this precau-
tion soon appeared. Before the English could enter a
harbour, there arose such "flawes of wind and terrible
whirlwinds," that they were obliged to stand out to
the open sea, and allow the vessels to drift at the
mercy of the waves. Amid the tliick mists of the
next stormy night the vessels of Willonghby and
Chancelor separated, and never again met. Cle-
ment Adams, who was with Chancelor, says, that
as they were driving before the gale, the Admiral
loudly and earnestly called upon them to keep close
to him ; but that he himself carried so much sail,
and his vessel was so superior, that Chancelor could
not possibly obey this order, Willoughby's pinnace
was dashed to pieces amid the tempest ; and next
morning, when light dawned, he could see neither
of his companions; but, discovering at length tho
smaller vessel called the Confidence, he continued his
voyage. He now sailed nearly two hundred miles
north-east and by north, but was astonished and be-
wildered at not discovering any symptom of land ;
whence it appeared that "the land lay not as the

globe made mention." The imperfect maps of those
ays appear not to have shown that rapid southerly
bend winch the coast takes towards the great opening
of the Waranger Fiord, on which Wardhuys is si-
tuated. Instead therefore,ofsailingalongortowards

»~'«^g|

s were rituafed
are. They pro.
I of Seynam, or
thout success to
approaching the
before them the
J onwards to the
vs and tempests,
lugh assembled
m to keep close
, appointed their
d to be the prin
n of this precau-
ish could enter a
wind and terrible
1 to stand out to
8 to drift at the
ck mists of the
Willoughby and
r-din met. Clc-
celor, says, that
lie, the Admiral
!m to keep close
d BO much sail,
Chancelor could
ughby's pinnace
npest ; and next
>uld see neither
at length the
16 continued his
) hundred miles
;oni8hed and be-
mptom of land ;
lay not as the
ct maps of those
rapid southerly
lie great opening
T^Taidhuys is si>
ilong or towards

NORTH'SABT T0TA0E8. 90

he coast of Norway, he was plunging alvnyn deeper
ftnd deeper into the abysses of the northern ocean.
At length the soundings, indicating a depth of 160
fathoms, proved the navigators to be far out at sea, m-
volved in some great and perilous error. They then
for some time took a direction to the south-east, yet
afterward again turned to the north, and continued
shifting their courses amid doubt and uncertainty.
Thus, as they groped their way through these vast
and stormy seas, at length land appeared, but high,
desolate, and covered with snow, while no sound
could be wafted over the waves except the crash of
iu falling ice, and the hungry roar of ite monsters.
This coast was evidently that of Nova-Zembla; but
there was no point at which a landing could be made.
After another attempt to push to the northward, the
mariners became sensible that the coast of Norway
was to be found only by an entire change of direc-
tion. They turned to the south-west, and having
followed that course for a number of days saw the
coast of Russian Lapland. Here they must have
been very near the opening into the White Sea, into
which, had fortune guided their sails, they would
have reached Archangel, have had a joyful meeting
with their comrades, and spent the winter in com-
fort and security. An evil destiny led them west-
ward, in the hope, probably, of reaching Wardhuys,
the only point in those immense seas of which they
had any distinct knowledge. The coast was naked,
uninhabited, and destitute of shelter, except at one
point, where they found a shore bold and rocky, but
with one or two good harbours. Here, though ft was
only the middle of September, they felt already all
the premature rigours of a northern season ; intense
frost, snow, and ice drivinp through the air, as though
it had been the depth of » inter. The officers con
ceived it therefore most expedient to searoh no longer
along these desolate shores, but to take up their quar-
ters in this haven till the ensuing spring. They were

-w^JSi^

too

K0RTR-SA8T TOTAOEi.

mirpnsed by the appearances of Arctic zoology, rein-
deer, foxes, polar bears, and " divers beasts to them
unknown, and therefore wonderful."

The narratire here closes, and the daricest gloom
"l^vplvea the fate of this first English expedition.
Neither the commander nor any of his brave com-
paiuons ever returned to their native shores. After
long suspense and anxiety, tidings reached England
that some Rassian sailors, as they wandered along
these dreary boundaries, had been astonished by the
view of two large ships, which they entered, and
fmrnd the gallant crews all lifeless. There was only
the journal of the voyage, with a note written in Ja-
nuary, showing that at that date the crews were still
alive. What was the immediate cause of a catas-
trophe so dismal and so complete, whether the ex-
tremity of cold, famine, or disease, or whether all
these ills united at once assailed them, can now only
be matter of sad coi^ecture. Thomson thus pathe
tieaUy laments their fate :—

_^ BfiiwntUe thejr,

Who, hem mUpiiM In the (Mberinc iee.
Tike their iMt look of the dMcendinf ann ,
While, ftdlmr dwth, and flerce with lenfbld ftrnt,
The long, long night. Incumbent, o^r their head*.
FWU horrible. Such wae the Briton'i Ikte,
At with Jtrst prow (what hare not Brilona dand ' i
He for the pMMg* longht, attempted lihoa
8a much in vain,

We must now follow the career of Chancelor, with
whom we parted amid the tempest which overtook
the ships at the extremity of Norway. This com-
mander pressed on, and, by keeping close to the
shore, or by obtaining better information, succeeded
without any difficulty in reaching Wardhuys. There
he waited for his companion seven dayn, after which,
disregarding the alarming reports of perils which
would beset his farther progress, he pushed on gal-
lantly towards his mysterious destination. " He held
OQ'lus course towards that unknown part of the

.4.tb.

r«B^|

tic zoology, rcin-

s beaits to them
»

e daricest doom
lish expedition.
r his brave com-
B shores. Aftei
cached England
wandered along
stonished by the
ey entered, and
There was only
:e written in Ja-
crews were still
ause of a catas-
vhetherthe ex-
, or whether all
n, can now only
son thuspathe

fbfdfhMt,

ilrbawb,

hte,

xisiland'i

lea

Chancelor,with
vhich overtook
iy. This com-
? close to the
tion, succeeded
tlhuys. There
jrsjtdlter which,
f perils which
pushed on gal<
on. "He held
n part of the

XGRTH-EAST TOTAOM.

101

world, and sailed so far, that he came at last to the

Elace where he found no night at all, but a contmual
ght and brightness of the sun, shining clearly upon
the great and mighty sea." As this was August, it
seems mysterious how the perpetual light of the
northern midsummer should have been perceived for
the first time, and have been ascribed to the progress
eastward. Probably a course of gloomy weather
had preceded and rendered it for the first time sensible.
Thus, however, the adventurers were guided to the
entrance of an immense bay, which was no other
than the White Sea, — a grand feature yet unknown
to Western Europe. They espied a little fishing-boat,
the crew of which, having never seen a vessel of
similar magnitude, were as much astonished as the
native Americans had been at the Spaniards, and,
taking the alarm, fled at full speed. Chancelor, with
his party, pursued and overtook them ; whereupon
they fell flat on the ground, half-dead, crying for
mercy. He immediately raised them most courte-
ously, and by looks, gestures, and gifts, expressed the
most kind intentions. Being then allowed to depart,
they spread every where the report of the arrival
"of a strange nation, of singular gentleness and
courtesy." The natives came in crowds, and the
sailors were copiously supplied with provisions and
*very thing they wanted.

Chancelor now, inquiring on what part of the
world he had been thrown, learned that he was at
the extremity of a vast country, then obscurely
known to Western Europe under the title of Russia
or Muscovy, and which was under the absolute rule
of a sovereign named Ivan Vasilovitch. Although
the court at Moscow was immensely distant, and
could only he reached by sledges over the snow,
Chancelor immediately began to negotiate for per-
mission to visit the capital of this great potentate ;
which he obtained after the delay of sending to
Moscow. His journey to that city carryinir him out
Is

'*'«^

102

KORTR-kAST rOVAOKI.

T

of the sphere of Arctic discovery, it will suffice tb
say, that he was received in the most satisfactory
manner, and returned with a letter from the Czar,
expressing a cordial desire to open an intercourse
with Enffland, and to grant to the Company of Mer-
chant-Adventurers every privilege necessary to en-
able them to carry on traffic in his kingdom. The
traders now assumed the title of the Muscovy Com-
pany ; and the same officer was again sent out with
credentials from Philip and Mary, who, in conse-
quence of thepremature death of Edward, then filled
the throne. The original object of an eastern pas-
sage was not lost sight of; the captain being in-
structed to make every possible inquiry on the sub-
ject. The spirit of discovery at homo was too ar-
dent, however, to wait his return. A small vessel,
called the Searchthrift, was fitted out in 1656, and
placed under the command of Stephen Burroughs,
who, on the first voyage, had- acted as master of
Richard Chancelor's vessel. Enthusiasm and hope
seem to have risen as high as at the departure of the
first expedition; Sebastian Cabot came down to
Gravesend with a large party of ladies and gentle-
men, and, having first-gone on board, and partaken
of such cheer as the vessel afforded, invited Bur-
roughs and his company to a splendid banquet at the
sign of the Christopher. After dinner, a dance being
proposed, the venerable pilot started up and tripped
it along with the most youthful of the party.

Under these cheerful auspices, Burroiuhs, on the
89th of April, sailed from Gravesend. Various cir-
cumstances delayed till tha middle of July his arrival
at the islands and straits of Waygatz, between Nova
Zembla and the continent. On the 31st the crew
saw what they imagined to be land, but it proved to
be " a monstrous heap of ice, which was a fearful
Bight to see." They were soon entangled in it, and
for six hours could with difficulty avoid one mass
without striking upon another. Soon after an im-

J^

it will suffice to
nost satisractory
■ from the Czar,
n an intercourse
'ompany of Mer-
necessary to en-

l(in^dom. The
e Muscovy Com-
jin sent out with

who, in conse-
Iward, then filled

an eastern pas-
aptain being in-
uiry on the sub-
3mo was too ar-

A small vessel,
out in 1556, and
)hen Burroughs,
jd as master of
isiasm and hope
departure of the

came down to
lies and gentle-
'd, and partaken
ed, invited Bur-
id banquet at the
er, a dance being
1 up and tripped
tie party.
lUToiwhs, on the
d. Various cir-
r July his arrival
s, between Nova
i 31st the crew
but it proved to
h was a fearful
mgled in it, and
tvoid one mass
>n after an im-

NORTH'EAST VOYAGES.

tnense whale came so close, that they might have
thrust a sword into him ; but, alarmed lest he should
overset the vessel. Burroughs called together his
men, and caused them to shout with all their might ;
upon which this mighty animal, which is neither fe-
rocious nor very courageous, plunged into the depths
with a terrible noise.

Among the islands of Waygatz, the English descried
a Russiamsail. The master, named Loshak, stated
himself to be in extreme haste ; but, on receiving a
glass, two pewter spoons, and two knives, he pre-
sented seventeen wild geese, and gave much infor-
mation. He stated this to be the country of the
wild Samoides, who owned no subjection to Russia,
but " will shoot at all men to the uttermost of their
power that cannot speak their speech ;" it was even
said that they ate the Russians. Loshak led the
captain to a place left by these people, where there
were still three hundred of their idols, the rudest
workmanship Burroughs ever saw. They consisted
of figures of men, women, and children, " very grossly
wrought ; the eyes, mouths, and other parts stained
with blood." We may here mention tnat Johnson,
one of the party, when at the Pechora, had been
present at a mighty scene of magic incantation, per-
formed by one of the great northern wizardbi. This
personage first took a great sieve, somewhat resem-
bling a drum, then he began to sing " as we use m
England to halloo, whoop, and shout at hounda," to
which the company responded with — igha, igha, igha !
At length the ma^cian fell into convulsions, and
dropped down as if dead, though he could still be
heard breathing. Johnson, having asked the mean-
ing of all this, was told—" Now doth our god tell him
what we shall do!" Having thus allowed him to
remain for a short time, the people began to cry
aghao, aghao ! whereupon he rose and again began
to sing. He next took a sword and thrust it through
his body, causing it to enter at the breast and isaua

104

NORTH-BABT VOYAOKf.

at the back. Johnson iaw it go into the shirt
before, and come out at the shirt behind, but
does not seem to have acrutiniied with any dili'
gence its actual passage through the person. The
sword, urobably only of iron, had been heated, which
would favour greatly a circuitous track. The magi-
cian then sat down with a vessel of hot water before
him, and a line or rope of deer-skin {massed round his
body, over all which, as well as himself, a spacious
cloth mantle was spread. The ends of the line, be-
ing left without the mantle, were drawn tight by two
men on opposite sides, till something was heard fall-
ing into the dish. Johnson, asking what this was,
learned with horror that it was the magician's head,
shoulder, and left arm, severed from the body by the
violent pulUng of the rope. Johnson besought that
he might be allowed to lift the cloak and view this
awftil spectacle, but was assured that no one could do
8<r and live. After the multitude had sung and hal-
looed for some time, the cloak was lifted, when the
wizard came forth perfectly entire, all the parts cut
asunder having, it seems, been miraculously replaced.
The imposture, liowever gross and obvious, appears to
have completely succeeded with the ignorant natives.
Burroughs had passed fifteen leagues beyond the
mouth of the Pechora, and the soundings indicated
an approach to Nova Zembla, when he came to the
conclnsion, that all attempts to penetrate farther this
year would be abortive Among other causes, he
mentions the imtoward north and north-easterly
winds, which were more powerful than in any othei
place he ever knew ; the great and terrible abundance
of ice, of which he had reason always to expect
greater store; the nights waxing dark, and Winter
with his stonns bennning to draw on. Under these
considerations he determined to return and winter at
Colmogro, stating his intention to resume next sum-
mer his attempts to penetrate eastward ; but this, in
consequence of other «<mployment, was never carried
into effect.

T

mim

IKS.

SO into the shirt
shirt behind, but
ed with any dili-
the person. The
teen heated, which
;rack. The magi*
f hot water berore
n passed round his
limself, a spacious
ds of the hne, be-
Irawn tieht by two
tig was heard fall<
; what this was,
! maincian's head,
m the body by the
son besought that
oali and view this
lat no one could do
had sung and hal-
B lifted, when the
, all the parts cut
culously replaced,
ibvious, appears to
3 ignorant natives,
igues beyond the
undings indicated
m he came to the
etrate farther this
other causes, he
id north-easterly
than in any othei
errible abundance
ilways to expect
lark, and Winter
on. Under Uiese
urn and winter at
-esume next sum-
vard ; but this, in
waa never carried

WORTH-BAST VOTAaC*.

100

Tliere occurred now a tragical incident connected
with northern discovery. Tlie Czar, Ivan Vasilovitch,
sent back with Richard Chancelor his ambassador and
orator, as he is termed, Osep Nepea Grfegorowitch, with
four ships heavily laden with furs, wax, train-oil, and
other Russian commodities, to the value of upwards
of £90,000, which belonged partly to the merchants
and partly to the orator. On this homeward voyage,
two of the vessels were wrecked on the coast of
Norway, a third reached the Thames, but the Ed-
ward Bonaventure, in which were the chiefs of the
expedition, was driven by the tempest into the bay
of Pittisligo (Pitsligo), in the north of Scotland, where
It went entirely to pieces. Chancelor endeavoured,
in a very dark night, to convey himself and the am-
bassador ashore in a boat. The skiff waa over-
whelmed by the tempest, and the captain drowned,
though the ambassador, by great good fortune, suc-
ceeded in reaching the land. He thence proceeded
to London, where Philip and Mary gave hiln a splen-
did and pompous reception.

A disastrous character upon the whole was thua
given to these voyages along the northern boundary
of Europe and Asia. This would not probably have
damped the high spirit of enterprise by which the
British were then animated; but the Muscovy Com-
pany had their attention diverted by the project of
opening a communication with Persia and India,
across the Caspian, and by ascending the Oxus to
Bochara. This scheme they prosecuted at great Cost,
and by a series of bold adventures, in which Jenkin-
son, Johnson, Alcocke, and other of their agents,
penetrated deep into the interior regions of Asia.
An unusual den'oe of courage was indeed necessary
to undertake this expedition, which was to be begun
by passing round the North Cape to tlie White Sea,
then by a land-jouniey and voyage down the Volga,
across the whole breadth of the Russian empire to
Aatrakhan, before they could even embark on the

^^w^^^y^'ijwy

106

NORTR-KAIT TOTAOIt.

Caapiuii. The truth i«, such a ■clieme was marked
by the iipioranco uot less ttian by the boldness of
early mercantile enterprise. It was soon ascertainedi
that no goods could bear the cost of such an immense
and dangoroui conveyance by sea and landt that
the goods of India could be brought, and those of
Europe returned, much cheaper and more commo
diously, by tlie way of Aleppo and the Mediterranean,
than by this vast circuit round the stormy north.
If the former conveyance, therefore, could not stand
a competition with the water carriage by the Cape
of Good Hope, how could the latter f It was aban-
doned, and no attertipt for a long time was made to
levive it.

This channel of intercourse with India having
failed, the attention of commercial and nauticcl ad-
venturers was again attracted to the possibility of
effecting a passage by the north and east of Asia.
Intelligence had just been received respecung the
river Obi, which was reported to enter the ocean by
seventy mouths, and which therefore seemed likely
to communicate with the most important countries
In the interior of Asia. John Balak, who had taken
up his residence at Duisburg, on the river Osella,
wrote to Gerard Mercator, the famous cosmographer,
a particular account of this river, and of the efforts
made by Aasenius, a native of the Netherlands, to
penetrate eastward along the Asiatic coast. He
mentions in particular another river called a tributary
of the Obi, but which, from the details, appears
rather to have been the Yenisei, down which came
"great vessels laden with rich and precious mer-
chandise, brought by black or swart people." In
ascending this river, men came to the great lake of
Kittay, (Baikal!) on whose banks were the Kara
KalmucB, who, he asserts, were the very people of
Cathay. It was added, that on the shores of this
ake had been heard sweet harmony of bells, and
iiat stately and large buildings had been seefi Uierein.

T

i>me was marked
the iMldncns of
■oon ascertained,
■uch an immense
i and laiul; that
;ht, and tjiotie of
nd mom commo-
he Mediterranean,
lie stormy north,
c, could not stand
iage by the Cupe
;r t It was aban-
;ime was made to

ith India havinr
1 and nauticcl m-
the possibility of
and east of Asia,
id respuc im(r the
nter the ocean by
ore seemed likely
portant countries
iK, who had taken
the river Osella,
lus cosmographer,
and of the efforts
B Netherlands, to
liatic coast. He
' called a tributary
I details, appears
lown which came
nd precious mer-
rart people.** In
the great lake of
9 were the Kara
le very people of
he shores of this
)ny of bells, and
been seed therein.

NARTR'IAST voYAfltS.

10?

Hcnre Mercator, in a letter to Hnkliivi. infers that n
very small pro^^ress beyond the limit already reached
by nuviKHtorx would carryr them to the great rnstem
realms of Japan and China. He maintained that
the capo bounding the Gulf of Obi was no other
than the great promontory of Tabis, which, accord-
ing to Plinv, formed the north-eastern boundary of
Asia; which being turned, the fortunate navigator
would bear down direct upon Sorica, Cathay, Cara-
balu,— those regions with which ancient and modem
rumour had identified the position of the Chinese
empire. This was undcrratmg the breadth of Asia
by a hundred degrees of longitude, or more than a
fourth of the circumference of the globe at this paral>
lei ; yet so imperfect were tlie sources of knowledge
in those days, that the error, however immense, can-
not be considered as fatal to the reputation of this
great geographer.

To realize these views, Arthur Pet and Charles
Jackman were supplied in 1680 with two vessels, the
George and the William. On the 93d June they
arrived at Wardhuys ; from which they sailed on the
1st July. Approaching Nova Zcmbla they found
themselves enclosed m a bay of ice, whence they
were obliged to come out as they entered, and had
much trouble before they were able to round the
large field to which it belonged. On the 19th of
Juljr they saw Waygatz, and endeavoured to make
their way along its southern coast ; but found it so
shallow that they were compelled to turn and make
a circuit by the north. Passing onwards they came
to a fair low island, and found a passage between the
ice and the shore, which, however, at length closed,
and they could advance no farther. At the same
time the ships were separated by large fields of ice,
and could communicate oidy hr beating drums and
firing muskets, till they were able to warp roimd and
rejoin each other. They ei\]oyed now the most
favourable breeze i but aU was rendered vain by the

108

NORTH-XAIT TOTAOII.

State of the ice. " Winds we have had at will, bnt
ice and fogs too much against our wills if it had
pleased the Lord Qod otherwise." The captains
determined to return to Waygatz, where tliey might
confer together, and endeavour to find a more open
passage. They were now obUged to warp from one
piece of ice to another, some of them so large that
they could not see beyond them from the topmast.
They were repeatedly enclosed by these masses, en-
veloped with dark fogs, and obUged to make fast
their vessel to icebergs, where, " abiding the Lord's
leisure, they continued with patience." On the 13th
August the vessels were involved among pieces of
loose ice, one of which broke the stock of their
anchor, " and many other great blows we had against
the same, that it was marvellous the ship was able to
abide them." The boat, being between the floe and
the brig, was struck, its side driven in, and the vessel
itself was made to recoil backward. Pet and Jack-
man did npt reach Waygatz tUl the 16th August, by
which time^ it being found impracticable to attempt
penetrating agsun to the eastward, they sought only
to repass the North C^. They appear to have
been zealous, well-fntentioned men; but, not duly
acquainted with the history of ice, they adhered too
closely to the land, whence large masses are conti«
nually detached or earned down by the rivers, while
the open sea might have afforded better hopes of a
prosperous navigation.

The United Prffoineet, when roused to resistance
by the ferocious bigotry of Philip, and by the cruel-
ties of the remorseless Alva, after a long, hard, and
glorious struggle, succeeded in establishing their
uttle territory as an independent republic. 'Hience
forth they began to look to the sea as the source of
their greatness and prosperity. This element sur-
rounded and penetrated their country on all sides,—
It towered, as it were, above them ; and they hac
employed its inundations to defend their small domain

MJIU

ill.

ve had at will, but
)ur wills if it had
'.." The captains
where t'ltey might
3 find a more open
1 to warp from one
them so large that
from the topmast.
r these masses, en-
iged to make fast
Ed)iding the Lord's
ice." On the 13th
among pieces of
the stock of their
iws we had against
le ship was ^Ic to
tween the floe and
1 in, and the vessel
:d. Pet and Jack-
tie 16th August, by
ticable to attempt
I, they sought only
y appear to have
ten; but, not July
!, they adhered too
masses are conti*
»y the rivers, while
better hopes of a

lused to resistance
, and by the cruel-
r a lon^, hard, and
establishing their
epublic. 'Hience
a as the source of
This element sur-
itry on all sides,—
im; and they hai.
their small domaii)

NORTH-EAST TOTAOE8.

109

against immenseljr superior forces. Commercfr«-a
commerce embracii.? the globe — was necessary to
compensate for the uanow limits within which thev
were hemmed, and to raise them to the first rank
among the states of Europe. The East was the
most promising quarter; but its approaches were
strictly guarded, and they had not yet a fleet which
could cope w;th the mighty armadas of Spain in the
Atlantic and Indian seas. The North alone was open
to their enterprise ; and by passing its frozen bound-
aries, they hoped to arrive at the nch and celebrated
empires whence so ample a tide of wealth had flowed
into Europe.

The first expedition was undertaken by a private
society of merchants, upon asking permission only
of the States, and of their high admiral. Prince
Maurice. Three vessels, with a small yacht, were
eqiiipped at Amsterdam, Enchuysen, and Zealand.
Tne pilot of the Amsterdam ship, to whose guidance
the expedition was generally intrusted, was William
Barentz, who a.pjpiTOved himself as one of the mos*
expert nautical men of the age.

The squadron sailed from the Texel on the 6th
June 1594, and on the 23d arrived at the island of
Kilduin in Muscovy. Approaching Nova Zembla it
was formed into two divisions, one of whidi at-
tempted to pass by the old route of the Strait of
Waygatz ; but Baientz himself, taking a bolder
course, endeavoured to pass round to the northward
of Nova Zembla, that ^at insular mass which op.
posed, like a barrier, his eastward {nroeress. Here
he coasted the Bay of Loros, so called from the
numerous flocks of the bird of that name, probably
the penguin, with wings so small compared to its
ample tody, that it seemed astonislung how they
coidd support the creature's motion in the air. Pass-
ing the Black Cape and William's Me, the Dutch
saw various features characteristic of the Arctic
world ; aiaoog others the walrus, in large herds. tlMit
K

£?SySft5^-l^^fe;SSJS;Si<S^;vlfei^

mm""

no

NORTR-SABT TOTAOES.

huge amphibious animal called varioualy sea-horse
or sea-cow, of which they give a very good descrip*
tion. Subsequentlv, at the Orange Isles, they came
upon two or three hundred lying in heaps upon the
sand, and basking in the sun. Having formed the
erroneous idea tliat these animals are helpless on
shore, the sailors marched against them as to an
assured victory, congratulating themselves on the
multitude of valuable teeth which would become an
easy prize. So completely were they mistaken, that
these gallant amphibia not only encountered, but
beat them off with loss and dishonour, breaking in
pieces the pikes, hatchets, and sabres employed in
this fruitless assault. The crews sustained also the
fierce encounter of the Polar bear. Having seen
one on the shore, they entered their shallop, and dis-
charged several balls at him, but without inflicting
any deadly wound. They were then happy when
they sncoeeded in throwing a noose about his neck,
hoping to lead him like a lapdog, and carry him as a
trophy into Holland; They were not a little alarmed
by his mighty and tremendous struggles : but what
was their consternation, when he fastened his paws
on the stem and entered the boat ! The whole crew
hastily clung to the poop, expecting instant death,
either from the eea or from his jaws. Providientially
at this moment the noose got entangled wiUi the
iron work of the rudder, and the creature struggled
in vain to extricate himself. Seeing him thus fixed,
they at length summoned courage to advance and
deroatch him with their spears.

Barentz, by the 1st August, reached the northern
extremity of Nova Zembla, in lat. 77«>; butthe wmd
blew so strong, separating the ice into large flakes,
that he and ms crew, rather early it should seem,
gave up hope and resolved to return.

Tlie two other vessels meantime pushed on along
the coast, and in due time arrived at Waygatz. Hiis
island had a very agreeable aspect, bei^g covered

iriia

T

18.

iriously 8e»-horafl
eiy gdiad descrip-
I Isles, they came
I heaps upon the
[avkig formed the
8 are helpless on
It them as to an
lemcelves on the
would become an
ley mistaken, that
encountered, but
nour, breaking^ in
ibres employed in
sustained also the
a. Having seen
r shallop, and dis-
without ijaflicting
then happy when
» about his neck,
nd carrv him as a
ot a little aJarmed
uggles : but what
astened his paws
The whole crew
ng instant death,
B. ProTidpntially
itangled with the
n«ature struggled
Aghim thusnxed,
■» to advance and

ihed the northern
77«; but the wind
into large flakes,
yitshomd seem,
n.

i pushed on along
It Waygatz. This
ict, being covered

NORTS-CA8T TOTAOCS.

Ill

with verdure and abundance of flowers, herbs, plants,
and particularly a great store of leeks. Large trees
were Ijring piled in heaps over each other, which ap-
peared very surprising, when neither on this nor the
opposite coast was there a single one found jrro wing;
but it was rightly judged that they were brought
down the rivers of Tartary, and Aifted hither by
winds and currents. On turning a point the Dutch
observed one of those great coUections of rudely
carved images which had been formerly remarked by
Burroughs. These consisted of men, women, and
children, sometimes having Ax>m four to eight heads,
all with their faces turned eastward, and many horns
of reindeer lying at their feet: it was called, there-
fore, the Cape of Idols. Forster alleges that the
Samoiedes have been falsely charged with this idda-
try, and that it were more chantable to conclude
these to have been images of departed friends whom
they cherished with pious veneration; but it does
not very exactly appear how the Samoiedes should
have had friends with six or eight faces.

The expedition had some diflteulty in working
their way throu|^ the Strait of Waygatz,— after
passing which, and sailing for some space idong the
coast of Nova Zembla, they were repelled by tte icy
barriers ; but having by perseverance rounded thrae,
they arrived at a wide, brae, open sea, witib the coast
bending rapidly southward; and though this was
only the shoro of the 6idf of Obi, they doid>ted not
that it was the eastern boundary of Ana, and would
afford an easy passage down iqmn China. Instead,
however, of prosecuting this voyage, they determined
to hasten back and communicate to their countrymen
this joyful intelligence. The two divisions met on
the coast of Rusrian Lapland, and arrived in the
Texel on the 16th September.

The intelligence conveyed in regard to the latter

Crt of this expedition kindled the most sanguine
pes in the government and people of Hwlani

M

113

NORTH-EAST TOTAOBS*

\\

V

Prince Maurice and the Statea-Oeneral no longer
confined themselves to empty praise and sanction,
but snpplied funds to aid m a fresh voyage. Six
vessels were fitted out, not as for adventure and dis-
covery, but as for assured success, and for canying
on an extensive traffic inifae golden regions of the
East. They were laden with merchandise, and well
supplied with money; while a seventh, a light yachtj
was instructed to follow them till they had passed
Tabis, the supposed bbundingpromontory or Asia;
when, having finally extricated themselves from the
Polar ices, and directed their course to China, it was
to return to Holland with the jojrful tidings. Petei
Planeius, the most celebrated cosmographer of that
age, drew up a map for their guidance, — doubtless
in our eyes a very crude performance, but which
combined all the geographical lights of that ignorant
period.

The armaments, which at that early epoch were
set forth with the greatest pomp and the most ample
equipment, usuaUy issued in the most lame and
abortive restdts. These large and heavily-laden ves-
sels were peculiarly ill fitted for winding their way
through narrow seas and channels encumbered with
ice. Of all the northern expeditions, accordingly,
none answered less than the present the great cost
and mamiiflcent expectations with which it had been
equipped.

The sqnadron sailed firom the Texel on the Sd of
June (1596), a period of the season decidedly too
late. Nothing great occurred till the 4th August,
when they reached the strait between Waygatz and
the continent, to which they had given the appellatioQ
of the Strait of Naasan. They came to the Cape
of Idols ; but though these were still dialm up in full
array, no trace was found of the habitations whidi
they might have seemed to indicate. A Russian ves-
sel, however, constructed of pieces of bark sewed
together, was met <n its way from the Pechora to

B8.

enerel no longer
ise and sanction,
ish voyage. Six
dventure and dis-
, and for canying
en regions of the
handise, and well
inth, a light yacht,
they had passed
nontory or Asia ;
mselves from the
Bto China, it was
il tidings. Petei
lographer of that
lance, — doubtless
lance, but which
9 of that ignorant

early epoch were
d the most ample
most lame and
leavily-laden ves-
inding their way
encumbered with
ons, accordingly,
Dt the gnat cost
which it had been

xel on the 3d of
on decidedly too
the 4th August,
en Waygatz and
en the a{n)el]ation
ma to tne Cape
II drawn up in full
lalntations whidi
. A Russian ves-
fl of bark sewed
t the Pechora to

KORTH-BAST T0TAOE8.

lis

the Obi in search of the teeth of the sea-horse, whale-
, oil, and geese. The sailors accosted the Dutch in a
very friendly manner, presented eight fat birds, and
on going on board one of the vessels, Vere strpck
with astonishment at its magnitude, its equipments,
and the high order with which eveiy thing was ar-
ranged. This being a fast^ay, they refused meat,
butter, and cheese; but, on being offered a raw
herring, eagerly swallowed it entire, head and tail
inclusive.

The navigators, after considerable search, fell in
with a party of Samoiedes, who are described as a
people of small stature, broad and flat face, little eyes,
short legs, and wrapped entirely in reindeer skins,
except a few who wore colowed cloth lined with fur.
They manifested considerable jealousy of strangers,
and on the approach of the interpreter, had drawn
their arrows to shoot him; but he called aloud,
" We are friends;" upon which they laid down their
weapons, and saluted him in the Russian stjde, by
bending their heads to the ground. The intercourse
which followed was conducted on their part with
considerable courtesy and good sense, mingled with
a feeling of precaution and even alarm. Onhearing a
gun fired, they ran away and leaped like madmen,
till assured that no harni was intended; and tliey
were then amused by seeing a little stone placed on
an eminenco struck and shattered to pieces by a mus-
ket ball.' A sailor boldly went up to the chief, dig*
nified in the narrative with the title of king, and pre-
sented him with some biscuit, which the monarch
graciously accepted and ate, though looking round
somewhat suspiciously. At length the parties took a
friendly leave ; but a native ran after the foreigners
with rigns of great anger, on account of one of their
rude statues which a sailor had carried off. These
figures were now judged to be divinities, and the
bones found lying before them the remains of sacri-
fices offend to them in that capacity. The Dutch
K3

Hi

NORTH-BAST V0TAOK8.

seem to have fonned a still lower estimate than Bm*
roughs of Samoiede sculpture. These images are de<
[Rcribed as little better than logs, somewhat rounded
at tlie top to represent ahead, with a slight projection
for the nose, two little holes for eyes, and one larger
aperture to represent the mouth.

The discoverers had been informed, in answer to
diligent inquiries, that beyond a point which might
be reached in about five days' sail, there extended a
large open sea to the south-east. They made re-
peated attempts to reach this point ; but, alter emerg-
mg from the Strait of W^gatz, were always driven
back by large bodies of floating ice. They perse-
vered till the end of September, when these masses
. atered the Waygafz in such force that they were
obliged with all speed to quit it by the western open-
ing, and bend their sails towards H(^and, without
havinff accomplished any one of the brilliant objects
for which this expedition had been undertaken.

A very considerable disappointment was felt in
that country at the failure of an expedition, from
which such sanguine hc^s had been eherishecL
The States-General declined supidying funds for a
fresh armament ; . but they proclauned a reward to any
individual or body of men by whom the object might
foe successfully accon^)li8hea. Hie town-council of
Amsterdam, with great spirit, determined to fit out
another squadron, on a smaller scale, and equipped
only for discovwy. They prepared two vessels,
which were respectively intrusted, one to Barentz,
and the other to John Comeliz Ryp, with seemingly
an equal division of power. Suspecting apparently
a prevalence of home-sickness, they admitted on
board none Wt nnmarried persons, who, it was
hoped, would be animated wiih a bolder spirit of en-
teiprise, and less inclined to long for return.

The vessels set sail, still rather too late, on the
loth of May, 1596. Their object setms to have been
to avoid the coast of Russia and the StiaitSt to shua

■riiM

Tir««i

s.

itimate than Bm*
86 images are de«
Diewhat rounded
t aligfat projection
18, and one larger

ed, in answer to
)int which might
there extended a
They made re-
but, after emerg-
re always driven
le. They perse*
en these masses
i that they were
he western open-
Hc^and, without
B brilliant objects
undertaken,
lent was felt in
expedition, from
been cherished,
ying funds for a
id a reward to any
I the object might
3 town-council of
rmined to fit out
le, and equipped
red two vessels,
one to Barentz,
, with seemingly
icting apparently
hey admitted on
IS, who, it was
>lder spirit of en-
r return,
too late, on the
tms to have been
B Strait«i to ahnn

NOKTH-BABT VOTAflU.

IM

«ven Nova Zembia, and to pish on direct through the
wide expanse of the Nortnem Oeean. Tliey even
stood inadvertently somewhat to the west, and on
the 93d came in view of the Shetland Idands.
Barentz urged that they shoidd turn due east, in
order to comjMnsate this deviation; bat (Torneliz in-
sisted that this would carry them at once into the
Strait of Wa^gati, the scene of so may abortive ef-
forts, and insisted upon steering towaras the north-
north-east. After passing the Shetlands, they saw
the moat brilliant celestiu phenomena they had ever
witnessed. The sun was attended by two parhelia
or mock suns, while a bright rainbow traverwd all
the three suns, and two other bows crossed the hea-
vens in diflRnent quarters. On the fith June some
sailcnrs called out, that a multitude of white swans
were swimming in the water; but the more expe-
rienced gave warning that these swans would be found
to be made of ice, and accordingly they Were soon
sailing in the midst of these moving masses. For
two days they proceeded between them as between
two lands ; while the oohmr of the sea, which was
green as grass, gave them the idea of being near the
countiT called Oreenland ; but Scoresby mis shoMm,
as is elsewhere Observed, that this oolour is produced
by the contents of the sea itsdf. On tbs 9tii the ad-
venturers discovered a long island rising abmptly
into steep and lofty clift, tius highest of yrbidi has
borne the appropriate name of Afount Misery. Pen-
nant, who errOMoiuly «q>poaes Benbet, in 160S, to
have been the first dinoverer, obeerves,— ^ The hor-
ror of this isle to the flrat diecovenrs must haye been
onspeakaUe: the proMeet dreary; black when not
hid with snow, and broken into a thousand precipicee
No sounds but of the dashing of die waves, the
crasMnp collision of floatmg ice, the disctwdant notes
of myriads of sea4bvrt, tlie yelpini? of Arctic foxes,
the snorting of tha wtdruses. Or i ' e roarins of the
Polar beats." The hills wen so cxcMsivuy steeps

i i

nm^i

ira

HOaTR'XAST YOTAOK*.

T

that though a party contriTed to clamber up, they
durat not look down, and the descent proTed most
doubtful and peiiknia. At length, applying their
backs to the face of the steep, they slid down with
safety, which Barentz, who looked up, could never
hare thought possible. From a bear, which the
Dutch irttacked, and vainly attempted to secure by a
noose, thev gave to it the name of Bear island, which
the English afterward attempted to supplant by that
of Alderman Cherie. Proceeding onward, still by
too northeriy a course, they reached the latitude of
80°, and discovered a coast which soon proved to be-
long to a country of great extent. This was Spitz-
bergen, or East Greenland, which, from the latitude,
thev probably anproached near its northern point of
Hakluyt's Headland. The name of Greenland, which
has in some degree adhered to this island,. was given
under the erroneous impression of its belonging to
that great extent of coast, so called by the Icelanders,
in distinction from which it has been called East
Greenland.

The Dutch, finding their progress eastward stopped
by this line of coast, now retraced their route sJung
its deep bays, still steerine southward till they found
themselves again at Bear island. Here Comeliz and
Barentz differed once more ; the former still adhering
to his. original views, and recommending that they
should again pudi northward, and endeavour to
find their way along the eastern coast of the newly-
discovered land ; but Barentz insisted more ration-
ally, that they ought to steer east-south-east, and en-
deavour to round the northernpoint of Nova Zembla.
Being unable to agree, and Barentz being resolved
for this time not to jneld, they determined to separate,
and to make trial each of his respective course. Ba-
rentz, whom we follow, proceeded according to his
plan, till at midday, on the 17th July, he found him
sdf off the coast of Nova Zembla; he had gone too
fiur south* and was obliged to turn again northwavd.

claihber up, they
sent proTed most
h, a^lving their
V elid down with
I up, could never

bear, which the
ted to secure by a
3ear island, which

supplant by that
J onward, still by
d the latitude of
loon proved to be-

This was Spitz-
rrom the latitude,
(lorthem point of
Oreenlanid, which
island,. was given

its belonging to
by the Icelanders,
been called East

eastward stopped
their route sJonff
ird till they found
iereComelizand
ner still adhering
ending that they
d endeavour to
ist of the newly-
ted more ration*
>uth-east,anden-
of Nova Zembla.
z being resolved
lined to separate,
tive course. Ba-
Bceording to his
r, he found him
he had gone too
igain wmhwaid.

NORTH-tAIT TOVAOSa. fff

He pushed on as vigorously as possiUe, but it was not
till the 6th August that he doubled Cape Nassau ; but
here finding the ice drifUag idong in large masses,
and being involved in deep fogs, he Judged it expedient
to moor liis vessel to a largelceborg. As the master
was walking on deck, he saw a large bear endeavour*
ing to scale the sides of the ship. He immediately
called out, "All hands up!" and the craw, having
mustered, raised loud cries, which induced the mon-
ster to retreat ; but he soon returned to the charge.
They had now a sail raised along the dedK, and four
guns loaded, which wen fired with such effect, that the
bear fled, and sought shelter amid huge masses of ice.
On the lOth of August the ice began to separate,
and the seamen remarked that the bu'g to which tiiev
were moored was fixed to the bottom, and thnt all
the others struck against it. Afraid that these loose
pieces would collect and enclose them, they qiUtted
their moorings and saUed on. The ice was airaady
forming on the surface, and the ship in sailing thioupi
made it crack on all sides. T^e Dutch worked on
their way, mooring themselves to successive frag-
ments, one of which rose like a steeple, being twenty
fathoms above and twelve benea^ tne water. They
saw around them more than four hundred large ice-
bei^ the fear of which made them keep close to the
shore, not aware of that being the quarter where
these dangerous bodies wera formed, and along
which they chiefly ranged. However, they steered
on, and having passed what they called Little Icy
Cape, came to Orange Island, which forms the
northern extremity of Nova ZemUa. Here ten men
swam on shore, and, having mounted several pUes
of ice which rose, as it were, into a little mountahi,
they had the satisfaction of seeing the coast tending
southw&rd, and a wide open sea to the south-east.
They hastened back to Barentz with these JoyM
tidings, and Uie success of the vosrage was considered
almost secure.

m"migmm

118

nomtU'MJun totaoib.

Bat dwse hopes wen delutiTe. After doaUing
what WW called C^w Desire (now Zelania), the ice-
bergs mustered in sueh force, that the crews ^va
np all i iea of doing more than reach the strait of
Waygata on their return home. They were driven,
however, so rapidly before the floating masses, that
thite men who had mounted one of them to recon*
noitre, would have bean left behind, but for extraor-
dinary exertions of a^ty. They were now drawn
direct into, what they called Icy Port, and the vessel
was thrown into a position almost perpendicular,
with one end nearly touching the bottom. Front
this critical attitude they were relieved next day ;
but flresh masses of ice continuaUy poured in, aug-
menting the terriUe ramparts with which thev were
enclosed. One side of the vessr I was raised oy suc-
cessive pieces Jammed beneath i^ but the other was
similarly elevated ; so that ths ahip was lifted to the
top of me ice as 1^ machinery. All this time the
cracking, both around them, on every side, and
withinUie ship itself was so dreadful, that they were
in continual feair of ita parting into fragmenU ; but
this interior cracking, arinng merely from the freel-
ing of the Juices of Ute timber, was much less dan-
gerous than they imagined.

The Dutch now felt that they must bid adieu for
thia year to al] h^pes cf esci^M fh>m their icy prison.
As tne vessel v s cracking continually, and opening
in different qui>rtei«, they made no doubt of its going
to pief^ea, and could hope to survive the winter only
by constructing a hut, which might shelter them
from the aranoaching rigour of the season. Parties
sent into the country reported having seen foot-
steps of reindeer, also a river of fresh water, and,
what was more important still, a great quantiw of
fine trees, with the roots still attached to them,
strewed upon the shore. Not one of these trees
QDuld have grown on the frozen soil of Nova Zambia ;
thev were all brought down the rivers of Muscovy

cs.

, After doabiing
Zelania), the ice-
t the crews ^ve
Boh the atrait of
[liey were driven,
iting maases, that
if them to recon-
d, but for extraor-
were now drawn
>rt, and the vessel
Mt perpendicular,
e bottom. From
ilieved next day;
Y poured in, aug-
which thev were
iras raised oy sue-
but the other was
[) was lifted to the
All this time the
every side, and
ful, that they were
o fragments ; but
ly from the freet-
B much less dan>

lust bid adieu for
m their icy prison,
ually, and opening
doubt of its going
re the winter only
ight shelter them
i season. Parties
laving seen foot-
fresh water, and,
great quantiw of
BttHched to them,
DO of these trees
lofNovaZembla;
iven of Muscovy

MOftTH-BABT VOTAOIS.

If

■nd Ttntary, and wafted over the ocean by wtaidl
and currents. This circumstance gave a peculiarly
cheerftd colour to the hopes of the mariners. They
trusted that Providence, which had in this surprising
manner furnished materials to build a house, and
fuel to warm it, v/ould supply also whatever was
necessary for their passing through the approaching
winter, and for returning at length to their native
country. A sledge was instantly constructed ; three
men cut the wood, while ten drew it to the spot
marked out for the hut. They sought to raise a
rampart of earth for shelter and security, and em-
ployed a long line of fire in the hope of softening the
ground, but m vain.— The carpenter having died, it
was found impossible to dig a enure for him, and
they lodged his body in a cleft of the rock.

The buildinff of the hut was cturried on with ar-
dour, as afformng the only hope of life ; yet the cold
endured in this operation was intense, and almost
insupportatde. When a nail was put into the mouth,
it was ilrozen to the lip, and brought the skin awav,
drawing blood. The snow sometimes fell so thick,
for days successively, that the seamen could not stir
from under cover. They had at the same time hard
and perpetual combats with the Polar bear. One
day the master saw from the ship three of these Ani-
ons anim^ running towards the working party, and
gave them warning by loud cries. They immedi-
ately ran towwds the vessel ; when one of them, in
his naste, fell into a cleft in the ice, and was given
up for lost; but the bears overlooked himyand con-
tinued their pursuit of tiie main body. The sailors
having at length reached the ship, made the circuit
of it, and mounted from behind; but their pursuers
entered in ftvnt, and advanced furiously to the attack.
A man, sent down to the kitchen to ught a match,
wa I in too great haste and agitation to accomplish
tha \ simple process, and the muskets were thus use*
Tne crew could now parry the assault oidy by

fhrowbic at th« bem whatert r eaiM fint to hand,
by wUoh the attention of the animala was alwavs
for a moneat attracted, tliouffh they returned to the
charge with ft«ah vigour. A? leagUi, when mattera
aeemed approaching to extremity, a halberd waa
darted at the largea^ which struck him on the mouth
with aueh force that he retreated, and the others fol*
lowed.

Notwithatanding this intense rigour, winter had
not yet thoroughly set in. Several days of south-
west wind dissolved a vast quantity of ice, and they
saw a wide open sea without, while the vessel was
enclosed witnin, as it were, by a solid wall. By
October they completed their hut, and prepared to
convey thiUier their provisions and stores. Borne
painful disooveriea were now made. Several tuns
of fine Dantsie beer, of an agreeable and medicinal
quality, and firom which thev had anticipated much
comfort, had firosen so hard as to break the casks,
burstingeven thA iron hoops by which they were
held. The contents, indeed, existed in the form of
ice, but this, when thawed, had merely the taate of
bad water; and though in the middle they found a
liquor concentrating m itself the whole strength of
the bear, it had not the true flavour and character of
that beverage. They made trial of mixing the two
together, bat without being aUe to restore its proper
reUsh and virtue.

The sun, whiqh bad hitherto been their only plea-
sure and CQDaolation, began now to pay only short
Tiaits,andto^vesi0>sof hia aniuroacliing departure.
He rose in the aoutEHMUth-east and set in the south,
south-west, iwhUe the moon was scarcely dimmed by
his preseaee. On the let November his fuU orb was
atill seen for aaliort interval ; on the 8d it rested on
the horixon, bom which it did not detach itself; on
the 4th the sky was oalm and dear, but no sun rose
or set.

The dreary winter night of three montha, w|uch

■ta

M.

iM lint to hudi

naia was alwava
>y returned to the
;u), when mattera
a halberd wan
him on the mouth
ud the otbera fol-

li;our, winter had
Q dayi of nouth-

S' of ice, and they
e the veaael waa
BoUd wall. By
and prepared to
d atorea. 8onie
ie. Several tuna
lie and medicinal
uiticipated much
hreax the caaka,
which thev were
id in the form of
>rbly the taste of
Ue they found a
rbole atrength of
and character of
r mixinfr the two
restore its proper

1 their only plea<
0 pay only short
acoingd^arture.
laetintheaouth.
trcely dimmed by
irhia full orb was
le 8d it retted on
detach itself ( on
, butnosun rose

B noBtlub wliieh

NORTR-IAST TOTAOIS.

131

had ntm set in, was not, however, without some
alleTiations. The moon, now at the full, wheeled
her pale but perpetual eircle round the horiaon.
With the sun diaappearad also the bear, and in his
room came the Arctic fox, a beautiful little creature,
whose flesh resembled kid, and fumiahed a variety
to their meals. They found great ditRcnlty in the
measurement of time, and on the 6th rose only late
a the day, when a controversy ensued whetner it
was day or nirht. The cold had atopped the move-
menta of all the clooka, but they afterward formed
a sand>riass of twelve hours, by which they contrived
tolerably to estimate their time.

On the 3d December, as the sailora lay in bed, they
heard from without a noise so tremendous as if all
the mountains of ice by which they were surrounded
had fallen in pieces over each other. In fact, the
first light which they afterward obtained showed a
considerable extent of open sea : yet this disruption
must have been produced by a merely internal move-
ment of the ice, not by any tendency towards thaw.

As the season advanced, the cold became always
more and more intense. Early in December a dense
fall of snow stopped up all the passages by which the
smoke could escape : so that a flra, at dl fitted for
the dreadful inclemency of the aeason, led to the
danger of suflbcation. The men were tiiusoUiged
to keep the room at a miserably low temperature, for
which they used the imperfect remedy of heated
stones, paued firom one bed to another. One great
trouble was how to wash their clothes ; whenever
they took these up ftom the boiling water, and began
to wrinff them, the linen froxe in their hands ; and
when they hung them up to dry, the side farthest
from the fin was bard firoien. The cold becoming
always mora rigorous, ice two inches thick was
formed on the walls. At length their sufferings
came to such an extremity, that, castingat each other
languishing and piteous looks, they anttoipated that

112

RORTH-EAtT TOTAOSf .

this must end in ui« extinction of life. They now
resolved that, cost what it might, they «hoiud foi
once be thorouj^y wanned. They repaired, there-
fore, to the ship, whence they brought an ample sup-
ply of coal ; and having kindled an immense fire, and
carefully stopped up the windows and every aperture
by which the cold could penetrate, they did bring
themselves into a most comfortable tempera ure. In
this delicious state, to which they had been so long
strangers, they went to rest, and talked gayly for
some time before falling asleep. Suddenly, in the
middle of the night, several awakened in a state of
the most painful vertigo ; their cries roused the rest^.
and all found themselves, more or less, in the same
alarming predicament. On attempting to rise, they
beoune dizzy, and could neither stand nor walk. At
length two or three contrived to stagger towards the
door ; but the first who opened it fell down insensible
among the snow. De veer, who stood behind, re-
vived him by pouring vinegar on his face ; and the
wintry air, which had been their greatest dread, now
restored Ufe to the whole party.

These unhappy mariners bemg thus compelled to
afford A certain access to the wintry blast, its effects
became always more and more insupportable. It
seemed as if the fire had lost all power of conveying
heat : their clothes were white with snow and hoar-
frost ; their stockings were burned before the feet
felt any waimUi, and this burning was announced by
smell rather than by feeling. Yet, in the venr midst
of these sufferings, remembering that the 5th January
was the feast of the Kings, they besought the master
that they might be allowed to celebrate that great
Dutch festival. They had saved a little wine and
two poundn of flour, with which they fried pancakes
in od; the tickets were drawn, the gunner was
crowned king of Nova Zembla, and the evening
passed as mCTrily as if thev had been at home round
their native fireside. Nothing can more strikingly

S8.

f life. They now
. they ishoiud foi
BT repaired, there*
gnt an ample Bup-
inunenK fire, and
uid every aperture
ie, they did bring
tempera ure. In
had been so long
I talked eayly for

Suddenly, in the
ened in a state of
31 roused the restt
less, in the same
pting to rise, they
uid nor walk. At
tagger towards the
sll down insensible

stood behind, re-
his face; and the
reatest dread, now

thus compelled to
ry blast, its effects
insupportable. It
)wer of conTe]ring
ith snow and hoar>
id before the feet
was announced by
t, in the veiy midst
lat the 5th January
esoughtthe master
ilebiate that great

a little wine and
ley fried pancakes
, the gunner was

and the evening
een at home round
ui more strikingly

nortr-iIast voTAoas.

ISt

fllustrate the salutary effecto produced even in these
desperate circumstances by mental occupation and
amusement,--«lfects of which Captain Parry after-
ward made so happy a use.

About the middle of January the crews began to
experience some abatement of that deep darkness
in which they had so long been involved. On throw-
mg a bowl, they could see it run along the ground,
vJuch was before impossible. Soon after, about
™>«day. a faint flush was seen to tinge the horizon ;
and this first dawn of the annual morning revived in
their hearts the hope which was almost extinguished.
On the 24th De Veer and two others ran in to say
that they had seen a portion of the sun's disk. Ba.
rent! demonstrated, fronj the structure of the earth,
that this could not take place for fifteen days. Many,
however, trusted more to the eyes of their compa-
nions; and bets were taken, which could not be de-
cided in the two following days in consequence of a
heavy fog in which the air was involved. The a7th,
however, being clear, they went out in a body, and
saw, ascendinfr above the horizon, the Aill ort) of
that great lummary. Joy took possession of their
hearts, and Barentz in vam continued to prove, that
this appearance was contrary to every principle of
science. He was not aware of the extensive power
of refraction in this northern air, which in C^t. Par-
nr's expedition, produced a similar abridgment m the
duration of the Polar winter.

Afliurs now assumed a more cheerful aspect lib
stead of constantly moping in \he hut, the men weiH
out daJy, employed themselves in walking, running,
and athletic games, which warmed their bodies and
preserved their health. With the sun, however, ap-
peared their old enemy, the bear. One attacked them
amid so thick a mist that they could not see to point
their pieces, and sought shelter in the hut. The bear
came to the door, and made the most desperate at-
tempts to burst it open ; but the master kept his

SIlWlBPWmi^"

IM

KOKTH-BAST TOTASKS.

back firmly aet against it, and the animal at last re-
treated. Soon uter he mounted the roof, where,
having in vain attempted to enter by the chimney, he
made furious attempts to puU it mmn, having torn
the sail in which it was wrapped ; all the while his
frightful and hungry roarings spread dismay through
the mansion beneath ; at lengtn he retreated. An-
other came so close to the man on guard, who was
looking another way, that, on receiving the sistm
from those within and looking about, he saw himself
almost in the jaws of the bear; however, he had the
presence of mind instantly to fire, when the animal
was struck in the head, retreated, and was afterward
pursued and despatch^.

The first reappearance of the sun had inspired
hopes that the weather would become continually
more mild and agreeaUe. It was, therefore, a severe
disai^intment, when, in February, a heavy north-
east gale brought a cold more intense than ever, and
buried the hut again under snow. This was the more
deeply felt, as the men's strength and supply of ge-
nerous food to recruit it were alike on me decline.
They no longer attempted daUy to dear a road, but
those who were able went out and in by the chim-
ney. A dreadful calamity then overtook them m the
failure of their stock of wood for fuel. They began
to gather all the fragments which had been thrown
away, or lay scattered about the hut ; but these beings
soon exhausted, it behooved them to carry out thmr
sledge in March of more. To dig the trees, how-
ever, out of the deep snow, and drag them to the hut,
was a task which, in their {xresent exhausted state,
would have appeared impossible, had they not felt
that Uiey must do it or parish.

In the course of March and Ainil,'the weather be-
came milder, and the attention of all the crew was
drawn to plans and prospects of return. Southward
on the side of Tartary, the icy masses were still
floeting, but to the norta-east there was an immense

•'sfr^tim

'W'm

BS.

I

animal at last re-
the roof, where,
tliechumiey,he
[own, having torn
all the while his
A dismay through
e tetreated. An-
il guard, who was
eiving the alum
It, he saw himself
wever, he had the
when the animal
nd was afterward

son had inspired
come continually
herefore, a severe
y, a heavy north-
ise than ever, and
rhis was the more
md supply of ge-
le on the decline.
) clear a road, hut
1 in by the chim-
nrtodi them m the
iiel. They began
had been thrown
t; but these being
to carry out their
ig the trees, how-
g them to the hut,
ezhansted state,
had they not felt

1,'the wealher be-
all the crew was
um. Southward
nasses were still
was an immense

NOETH-IAST TOTAOM.

IM

qien sea. Yet the barriers which enclosed the ship
not onl^ continued, but, to their inexpressible grie^
rapidlT mcreased, probably from the fragmente which
floated in tmon the breaking up of the great exterior
mass. In the middle of Marcn these ramparts wei«
only 75 paces broad, in the beginning of May they
were 500. These piles of ice resemUed the houses
of a mreat city, interspersed with apparent towers,
steeples, and chimneys. The sailors, viewing with
despair this position of the vessel, earnestly en-
treated permission to fit out the two boats, and in
them to undertake the voya^ homeward. The mas-
ter at length agreed, provided there was no better
prospect by the end of May. From the 30th to the
36th a north wind came on, and blew upon them a still
greater quantity of ice ; so that they no longer hesitated
to begin their work, and to bring from the ship sails
and cordage. The mere digging of the boats from
undjBr the snow was a most labraious task, and the

aiipment of them would have been next to impos-
le, but for the enthusiasm with which it was un-
dertaken. By the Uth June they had the vessels
fitted out, their clothes packed, and tlte provisions
embarked. Then, however, they had to cut a way
through the steeps and walls of ice which intervened
between them and the open sea. Amid the extreme
fatigue of duginff, breaking, and cutting, they were
kept in play by a nuge bear which had come over the
frozen sea from Tartary.

At length, the crew ,havingembariced all their clothes
and provisions, set sail on the 14th with a westerly
breeze. In the three following days they passed the
Cape of Isles, Cape Desire, and came to Orange Isle,
always working their way throudi much encumber-
ing ice. As they were off Icy Cape, Barentz, long
strugg^ng with severe illness, and now feeling his end
approach, desired himself to be lifted up that he mi|riit
take a last view of that iktal and terrible boundary,
on which be gased for a considerable- time.
L3

tM

ir<mTH-4IA8T TOTASIS.

On die following day the Teasels were again in*
Tolved anad masses of drift-ice, and were so forcibly
strudc, as well as squeezed between opposite fields,
tiiat the men had bid a find adieu to each other. See«
ing, however, a body of fixed ice at a little distance, De
Veertookarope and leaped from fragment to fiai^Tient,
till he arrived on the firm surface. A communica-
tion thus formed, diey landed first the sick, then the
stores and prorisions, and, finally, they drew the
boats themselves upon the ice. During this deten-
tion, Barents, being informed of the severe illness of
one Adrianson, mid, that he himself was not far from
his end. As he continued, however, conversing and
looking on a chart of the voyage made by De Veer,
it was thought that his disease could not be so seri-
ous, till he pushed aside the chart, asked for a draught
of water, and immediately expired. This event ex-
tremely afflicted the crews, both from their personal
attachment to Barents, and the loss of his skill in
piloting the vessels.

The sailots, with some drift-wood, repaued the
boats ; the ice, however, was still close around, and
they were struck wiUi the fear that they would never
escape from this bank, but must perish upon it. On
the 9Sdt however, tiiere appeared open sea at a little
distance, and bavins draped the boats over succes-
sive pieces of ice, they were again afloat. In the
three following days ther reached Cape Nassau, the
ice frequently stopping them, but opening again like
the gates of^a slmce, and allowing a passage. On
the 96th they were obliged once more to disembark
and i^tch tteir tents <m the ih)zen surface. On the
opposite coast they saw immense herds of sea-cows
(Wms), and the air daricened with numberless
birds. While they were fast asleep in the tent, the
sentinel edled out, ** Three bean I tmree bean r The
wlrale crew were instantly out ; tlieir muskets were
chttrged only with small shot for birds; however
" tfaiMe sweotmeats," though they could not inflict any

It were ■sain in-
1 were so forciUy
n oppoaHe fleldft
«aeh other. See-
little distance, De
imenttofnti^ent,

A cominunica-
the sick, then the
jT, they drew the
Ihnring this deten-
) serere illness of
f was not far from
ir, conTersing and
nade by De veer,
ddnotoe soseri-
isked for a draught

This event ex-
om their personal
OSS of his skill in

ood, repaired the
close around, and
t they would never
irish upon it. On
>pen sea at a little
mats over succes-
in afloat. In tfie
Cape Nassau, the
>pening again like
ig a passage. On
nore to disembark
I surface. On the
herds of sea-cows
with numberless
ep in the tent, the
ihreebeanr The
leir muskets were
r Urds; however
onld not inflict any

ICOaTB-BAST TOTAOBS.

m

Mrions womid, induced the monsters to turn, when
one of them was pursued and killed. The dead bear
was canried off in the mouth of one of the survivors
to the mopt rugged parts of the ice, when the two
devoured a large portion of his caroass.

The year was now advanced ; the bright light of
the sun and the occasional south-westerly breexes
mssolved the ice, and gradually opened a way before
them. It brought, however, dangen of a new class.
The distinction between fixed and floating ice had
now almost ceased, the former melting continually
away. As they thought themselves lymg secure on
a large field, a body of icebergs came in from the
open sea, struck and dashed it to pieces. The pack-
ages were separated from the boats, and several
dropped into the water. It was laborious to scram-
ble over the detached (ragments to a place of safety,
while the weighty articles sank into the softened ice,
not without the greatest risk of faUing to the bottom.
For twelve hours the sailors floundered through this
loose and broken surface before they could establish
themselves on the field which was attached to the
land.

The Sd of Mt was the finest day yet seen in Nova
Zembla; and the weather, continuing favourable,
produced on the 7th an open sea, to which, with
great labour, the men succeeded in dragging the
boats. From this time their progress, thoiu^ often
obstructed, was never entirely stopped. In several
of the ntcl^ bajrs they cau^t an> immense number
of birds, these poor animals n*t having yet learned
to fear man, and allowing themselves to be taken by
the hand. Near Admiral^ Bay they saw two hun-
dred sea-cows lying on a bank of ice, and attacked
them;JI}ut these powerful animals advanced to the
combat, snorting and blowing in so tremoBdooB a
manner, that, had not a fresh wind sprung up, the
nwrinen mi|^ have been in a serious {wemcament;
and they repented bitterly, anid so many inevitaUs

138

NORTH^SAST TOVAOKf.

vrUn, to have brought on themselTes one so very nn«
neoeasary.

On the asth, after passinff the bay of St Lawrence,
when they anproachied to the aontheni extremity of
Nova Zembta, the navigators discovered, with sur-
prise and Joy, two Russian vessels at anchor. They
approached, and were received with the usual cour-
tesy of that nation. Several of the Russians recol-
lected having met them in the former voyage, and
were truly astonished, instead of the large and
handsome vessels whose eijuipment they had so
much admired, to see them m these miserable open
boats, wiA meager and wasted frames. After mutual
presents, the parties agreed to sail together to Way-
gatz, but were separated by' a heavy gale. On a
smaU isle the Dutch found s^bundance of eoiMeana, or
scurvy-grass, by the use df which the sick recovered
in a manner almost miraculous. On the 3d August
they steered their course to the south-south-wiest,
and, though somewhat obstructed by ice, came on
the 4th in view of the coast of Russia. Thev had a
tedious but safe coasting voyage to Kola, where, to
their joyfid surprise, tl ey found John Comeliz, who
received them with the greatest kindness, and af-
forded them a comfortable passage to Amsterdam.
As no account was ever given of this commander's
own voyage, it may be presumed that it did not lead
to any important discovery.

The question as to a north-eastern passage was not
yet considered as- finally determined. The London
merchants next took it up, and, in 1608, fitted out
Henry Hudson, who had already distinguished him-
self by a voyage to Spitzbergen, and proved one of
the greatest of the early navigators. The design of
Hudson appears to have been, not to entangle himself
in the straits and islands on the Russian coast, but to
strike direct into the channel between Nova Zembla
and Spitzbergen. He dropped down to Blaekwall
on the 2Sd April, and on the 3d June saw the North

H^ jg?rfi^

ta.

68 one 80 very on-

7 of St Lawrence,
hem extremity of
sovered, with 8ur«
at anchor. They
th the usual cour-
le Russians recol-
>nner voyage, and
of the large and
lent they had so
me miserable open
les. After mutual
together to Way-
eavy gale. On a
ce of eochlearia, or
the sick recovered
On ibe Sd August
sonth-south-wiest,
1 by ice, came on
ssia. Thev had a
to Kola, where, to
^ohn Comeliz, who
kindness, and af-
ge to Amsterdam,
this commander's
that it did not lead

m passage was not
led. The JU)ndon
in 1606, fitted out
distinguished him-
and proved one of
rs. The design of
to entangle himself
ussian coast, but to
reen Nova Zembla
own to Blaekwall
line saw the North

IfOBTR-KAST TOTAOU.

139

Cape, bearing aonth-west He still pushed on to the
north and eat t, till he reached the latitude of 75 de-
gpees, when he found himself entangled among iee.
He at first endeavoured to pudi through, but, fail-
mi in this attempt, turned and extricated himself
wfth only •♦ a few rubs." On the 12th June he expe-
nenced a ttiick fog, and had his shrouds fit>ien ; but
the sky then cleared, and afforded bright sunshine
for the whole day and night. On the 16th, Thomas
Hilles and Robert Rayner solemnly averred, that,
standmg on deck, they had seen a meimaid. This
marine maiden is described as having a female back
and breast, a very white skin, and long black hau
flowing behind; but'on her turning round they de-
scried a taU as of a porpoise, and sneckled like a
mackerel. It seems uncertafai which of the ceta-
ceous species suggested this fancied resemblance to
the human form.

Hudson continued to push on eastward, varying,
according to the wind, between the latitudes of 74«
and 750. On the SSth, however, heavy north and
north-easteriy gales, accompanied with fog and
snow, obliged him to steer southeasterly; and this
course, on the aeth, brought him to the coast of Nova
Zembla, in lat 79<» 96'. Here, seemingly with prema.
ture resignation, whenJune was not yetclosed,he con-
cluded that it were fruitless to attempt to hold this
year a more northeriy course ; in place of which he
resolved to tnr the old and so often vainly-attenmted
route of the Waygatx. From this he was diverted by
the view of a lai^ge sound, which appeared to aflbrd
an equally inromising opening. On its shores also
were numerous herds of morses, from which he hoped
to defray the expense of the voyage. Nova ZemUa,
on the whole, seen under this Arctic midsummer, pre-
sented to him somewhat of a gay aspect. He mys,
it is "to man'k eye a pleasant umd; much roayne
land, with no snow on it, looking in some places graen,
and deer feeding 'boreon." "Hie sound, however, u

tie

NORTR-KAIT VOTAOM.

miBht hare been coqjectured from the strong eunrent
which came down, terminated in a large nrer, and
the boats soon came to anchorage in one fathom.
The mones also, though seen in great numbers, could
never be brougtit to close quarters. , The ice now
came in great masses from the south, '* very fearful
to look on ;" and though, " by the mercy of God and
his mighty help," Hudson escaped the danger, yet by
the 6th of July he was " void of hope of a north-east
passage," and, determining to put his employers to
no farther expense, hastened home to England.

We know not whether the Muscovy merchants
had been fuUy satisfied with the zeal displayed by
Hudson in this expedition; for've find him in 1609
setting sail firom the Texel under the auspices of the
Dutch East India Company, whose hopes of a
northern passage had agam revived. On the 6th May
he passed the North Cape, and on the 19th came in
view of Waidhuys. Hudson, though so excellent a
navigator, is a most unsatisfactory writer. His nar«
rative, amid vague complaints of fog and ice, shows
ordy Uiat he determined to turn his prow, and seek
to repass the North Cape, whence he steered across
the Atlantic to America. Forster says that he
reached Nova 2embla, an assertion directly contrary
to the captain's own narrative, and inconsistent with
the time spent in diis part of the voyage. Accord
ing to Constantin, the crew, consisting chiefly of
seamen accustomeid to seek India by the tropical
route, were soon alarmed by the fogs, tempests, and
floaUnff ice of the north. The troth is, Hudson's
own nSnd seems to have been fixed on north-westein
discovery. This appeara from several hints in his
second nsrrative; and he was pobably inclined to
content himself with a men snow of proceeding
eastward, that, appanntly baffled, he might follow
his favourite dbection. He seems to have been im-

Eiessed with the expectation of finding an open sea
etween Virginia and Newfoundland; and in fact

the stroni ciuicnt
a large nrer, and
g« in one fathom,
tat numbers, could
ra. The ice now
lUi, *• very fearful
mercy of God and
the danger, yet by
ipe of a nortn-eaat
1 hi* employers to
B to England,
uscovy merchants
zeal oisplayed by
I find him in 1609
the auspices of the
lioae hopes of a
1. On the 5th May
the 19th came in
ugh so excellent a
r writer. Hisnar*
bgand ice, shows
18 prow, and seek
: he steered across
Iter says that he
n directly contrarv
d inconsistent with
▼oyage. Accord
isisting chiefly of
ia by the tropical
bgs, tempests, and
truth is, Hudson's
i on north-westein
iveral hints in his
obably inclined to
)w of proceeding
I, be might follow
s to have been im-
ndmg an open sea
land; and in.fact

KOBTH-XAST VOYAOKS.

ut

I» discovered the important bay which Kceives the
mer caUed after him, the Hudson, and on which
Wew-York has been suce buUtj but this Ues out of
our present sphere.

.- J . Hu«8ja Company made afterward some at-
tempts to establish a factory on the Pechora; but,
after persevering for two or tliree seasons, they re-
linquished this undertaking. ^

In 1676, Captain John Wood, on'his own sanguine
repreeenutions of the probability of anorth-ewtem
E2?**"a''S? 'S"* ^"* **y *« Admiralty in the Speed-
well. On the farther coast of Nova.Zembla,Vow-

D™!!.*'**' difficulty reached their companion, the
Proeperoiw Pink, which afforded them a paraage

throw light on the question, brought home an im-
pression respecting it so very gloomy, that the plan
of penetrating to India in thi direction wasXEcS
forward given up, and has not been revived even in
the eras of the most enthusiastic edteiprise.

'»^iia^:f^ty£f^ma,

4.'.->lS>lIiSS;>iit': Sist^j^S

m

BAM.T rOLAR TOTA0IS

T

CHAPTER V.

Early Voyagf Umardt the Pole.

Thi attention of the public, it has appeared, had
been eariy drawn towards a Polar passage, which,
by striking directly across the ice and tempests of
that great boundary, might bring the navigator by
a shorter route than any other to the golden realms
of the East Mr Robert Thome, the zealous pro-
moter of eariy diswvery, in his memorials to Henry
VIH. and other great men, placed always foremost
the scheme of reachins India by this daring course.
It was not wOnderftd, however, that such a voyage
should not be the very first direction, of modem en-
terprise. A century had elapsed f.om the discovery
of the pass^ by the Cape of Good Hope, and half
tiiiat period since the commencement of the naval
career of Britain, before her seamen, despairing of
success by tbs more circuitous eastern and western
tracks hitbartd fbUowed, put forth all tiwir strength,
and attempted to penetrate this mighty northern bar-
rior of the earth.

Bnrants, in his third vcnrage, had discovered Spitz-
bergen, called at first New-Land, and afterward
Oieeidaiid; but it was by fishing «q>editions that
Endish vessels were first attracted into thsr hirit te-
titwles of Uie Greenland at Polar Sea. In 16C0, Al-
derman (Ur Francis Cneri«, of London, fitted out the
Godmad, ondieff the commaad of Stephen Bennet,
i— mfiigly with a vague scheme of poshing into ioe
nogrttMm seas in seardi of whatever fortune miriit
belUL Bennet began by the beaten track of the
North Ciqie, Wardhuys, and Kola : from which last

IBf

ike Pole,

has appeared, had
tr passage, whichr
and tempests of
the navigator by
the golden realms
, the zealous pro-
Bmorials to Henry
, dways foremost
;his daring course,
lat such a voyage
ipp. of modem en-
Lom the discovery
od Hope, and half
nent of the naval
non, despairing of
Mtem and western
I all tfieir strength,
igfaty northern bar-

1 discoiared Spitz-
id, and afterward
g expeditions that
)d into tbff high la-
Sea. Inl6M,Al<
ndoiit fitted oat the
f 8t«ph«n Bemet,,
if pashiog into tfa«
WOT iSwtime miriit
«ten tnck of the
i; from which last

•

BAmLT P01A» rOTAOKS.

13a

£^'r^??'.'''^'".*'?***®"'^'* !»»♦'«' north MHl
north-west into the Arctic Sea. On the l«th AngiuJ

.,! iTf °^^^)^ he deacned two hUls which seized
t^/^ol^T*' *>,''I?'«>"- In fow hours he reached
i«!j?!y./"'*"l°^®!ir""*' ^^ not aware, it should
Beem,or Its previous discovery by that navigator, gave

win/ H ™'.u'^ employer, the name of cfferie
if?. «i.h *" V*"* "I'lo" caught only two foxes and
a few fishes; for though they saw the teeth of a
morse, provmg that those animals did "use there."
S^«»1^" ""i'lfe*' *~ fw advanced to commence
^r^-^y^.Jffe??,'"- They "turned by way of

nn lL^«.iJ « ^"^^ ^^' ■"*> "»ehed th^ Thahies
on the 15th October. -muob

Sir Francis, on the return of the ship, thoosh it
came empty, judged there was enconrageinent enonrh

Bennet, accordiMly, not only went out a second time,
«l^^««.!r'"" "nceessive voyages, in which the
capture of the morse was cairied on with considera.
Die extent and success.

WhUe these fishing voyages were going on. Henry
Hudson, in 1607, was sent?ut by the'Su^ovV CoiS.
:)any to penetrate, if possible, directly aer6ss the
. ole. It was the first occasion of this very bold at-
tempt, and the first recorded voyage of this eminent
navfgator. Hudson, who sailed^rUielSM«?XJ
havmg cleared ScoUand, and passed the latitude of
Iceland, took a direction westward, being desirous
to murey tto nortbem and unknown bouhdaries of
Greenland, thinking there might be an open sea in
that direction as likely a. in ai^ other. Onthristh
June, the ahipe were hivolved in thick fog, their
shrouds and saUs befall frown, but when it cleared
next mommg, the saiTon descried a high and bold
headland, mostly covered with snow, bihind which
row a casteUated mountain, named the Mount of

2.«»l^Ty' "^ "S:? '•"• »»*' ^ ■*' <■«»» «em.
perate and agreeable. Thw steered ewtward to clear

1S4

lAMT rOlAK rOTAOM.

thi* eoMt { but, aA«r being for Mine time enveloped
in fogi, again saw land, very high and bold, and
without enow evon on the top of tne loftiest mouiw
tains. To this cape, in 73°, they gave the name of
Hold-with-Hope.

Hudson now took a north-eastward direction, and
on the 07th faintly perceived, amid fogs and mist,
the coast of Spitibergen. He still pushed northward,
till he paseed the 79th degree of latitude, where hs
found tne sun perpetually ten degrees above the hori-
Bon, yet the weather piercingly cold, and the shrouds
and sails often froien. The ice obliged him to steer
in various directions ; but, embracing every opportu-
nity, he pushed on, as appeared to him, to 81 i", and
saw land still continuously stretching as far as 89P.
But as the northern extremity of Spitsbergen does
not lie beyond 8!i<' of north latitude, he must here
have committed some mistake, either in his latitudes,
or in mistdiing for land extensive fields and masse*
of ice. It has been supposed that he had again
leached the opposite coast of Greenland; but this
seems inconsistent with his bearings, which are
always more or less to the eastward. The latitudes
of 81° and 83° he considers to be so completely
Iwned with ice as certainly to defeat all attempts at
a passage to the Pole in this direction. It appeared
to himinowever,that these seas mighv oe frequented
with great advantage on account of the immense
multitude of seals with which they abound. He re-
turned, coasting along Spitzbergen, some parts of
which appeared very agreeable ; and on the 16th of
September arrived in the Thames.

Tlie Muscovy Company, still the most enterprising
maritime body in England, determined yet to fit out
another expedition for Polar discovery. They in-
trusted it to Jonas Poole, who had distinguished him-
aelf m the Cherie Island voyages ; and it was hinted
to him that though discovery was to be his main ob-
ject, yet he mi^t catch, at intervals, some morses,
and even one or two whales, to naiko the Voyage

T

II.

ifl time «nv«loped
h and bold, and
Iw loftleot noouiw
(are the name of

ird direction, and
d fogfa and miat,
uahed northward,
ititude, where he
ea abore the hori*
, and the ahrouda
ligod liim to ateer
tiff every opportu-
Um, to 811«, and
ng aa far aa 89°.
Spitsbergen doea
le, he muat here
er in hia latitudea,
Selda and maaaea
At he had again
eenland; but thia
ringa, which are
■i. The latitudea
be 80 completely
•at all attempta at
lion. It app«ared
ighv oe frequented
t of the immenae
' abound. He re-
nt aome parte of
ad on the Iftth of

moat enteipriaing
ined yet to fit out
iovery. They in-
liatinffuiahednim-
and it waa hinted
to be hia main ob-
ala, aome moraea,
Qiake the f oyage

■ARLT roLAii roYAoia.

18(1

ieftay ita own expenaea. Poole took hia departure
in due flflaaon, aailing from blackwall on the lit
March, leio. By the 16th he had reached the coaal
of Norway, in lat. 65° ; but the wind then blew from
the north lo "extreme fierce, with grea* store of
enow and frost," and the veaael waa ao laden with
ice, that it could not maintain a «• fore courae,** but
waa driven back aa far aa Scotland. Here he re-
mained till the 19th April, when, favoured by a
aoutherly breeze, he again set sail, and, after many
atorma, snows, and extreme frosts, came in view, on
the 9d May, of the North Cape. He then steered for
Chcrie Island, near which he Judged himself to be on
the 6th ; but the fog was such that he could not sw a
cable's length, and '*the ship had many a knock;
but, thanks be to God, no harm waa done." Oontini'
ingtobeat about in this obscurity, he entirely missed
Cherie Island, and the first land aeen waa in 76° W,
being the ahorea of a sound on the coast of Spitsber-
gen, which, fW>m the deera' horns found there, he
named Horn Sound. He puahed on to 77^ SA*, where
he found the air more temperate than he had felt it
at the North Cape at the aame aeaaon. Soon, how
ever, there was a complete reverae ; the ahip was in
Tolved in thick foga^-and wind, froat, anow, and
cold seemed to strive for the maatery. After many
a sore stroke he got the veaael throu^ ; but the
mainsail waa atill " troten aa hard aa ever he found
any doth," and could with great difficulty be aet.
He diacovered an ialand, which he called Blackpoint,
and the nearest promontory he named Cape Cold;
but next day the weather changed ao entirely that,
had he fallen in with it then, he would have given it
a gentler appellation; therefore he called another
cape Fair Foreland. Poole'a views continued to
brighten when he found that the ann, aa the season
advanced, gave a most powerful heat; that the ice
waa melted on the ponds and lakea, while that which
atill floated on the sea waa not nearly so huge aa he
had aeen it in 73 degrees. He conceived favourable

136

BARLT POUOl TOTAOKS.

hopes, thenfore, even after so sharp a beginmni^
and judged that a passage by the Pole was as likely
to be found in this as in any other unknown direc<
tion. He might therefore have been expected to ap-
ply himself in the most zeatous and determined man-
ner to seek the passage. A large herd of morses,
however, having come in sight, he despatched his
crew in pursuit of them ; and from this time there is
not another word of discovery,— but the taking of the
wahrus and the deer, and now and then the attack
of the whale, absorb his whole attention. He met
with some dangers. One day he attacked a herd of
moiBes lying on ice, which proved hollow, and sud-
denly broke, whereon ice and beast slid into the sea
togetlier, and the crew had great difficulty in not
going along with them, especially one man ; for, be-
sides being crushed by the weight of dead morses
and ice, the animals that were alive struck at him in
the water and severely bruised him. Upon the
whole, he judged Spitsbergen to be milder than
Cherie Island, and was surprised at the great number
of deer, and at the care of Providence, which enabled
them to subsist with so little pasturage, with only
the rocks for a house, the starry canopy for a cover-
ing, and not a bush or a tree to shelter them from the
nii^ing cold of winter.

Altlwugh Poole returned from this voya^ without
having done or almost attempted any things yet as
he brought a considerable store of oil and morses*
teeth, his employers were not 01 satisfied. They
fitted him mit next year in the Elizabeth of 60 tons,
and in fheir instructions distinctly informed him that
discovery was to be his main object ; yet intimated,
that as he proceeded with the Mary Margaret des-
tined for the whale-fishery, he might begin with join-
ing her in taking a whale or two, and in his courea
along the coast kill as many morses as might chance
to present themselves. Having extracted the oil, he
was to floor the hold with their skins, which a tanner
had agreed to purcnase of the company; but all this

Bop a beginnings
tie was as likely
unknown direc-
i expected to ap-
determined man-
herd of morses,
s despatched his
this time there is
the t^ing of the
then the attack
intion. He met
tacked a herd of
hollow, and sud-
slid into the sea
difficulty in not
ne man ; for, be*
of dead morses
struck at him in
lim. Upon the
be milder than
ihe great number
:e, which enabled
urage, with only
nopy for a cover-
ter mem from the

SToya^ without
any thing, yet as
r oil and morses'
satisfted. They
Eibeth of 50 tons,
(iformed him that
t; yet intimated,
y Margaret des-
t begin with join-
fid in his coune
I as might chance
:racted the oil, he
s, which a tanner
•any; but all this

I

SAKLT r0L.*R TOTAOES.

187

only to lighten the cost of discovery, and not U> be
in any degree a primary object

The vessels set sail early in April (1611), but were
soon separated by fogs and storms ; and when Poole
reached the coast of Spitzbergen, he found only three
boats escaped from the wreck of the Mary Margaret.
In the rest of his proceedings we never hear a single
word of Polar discovery; but uo appUed himself
most diligently to the secondary object; and by the
3d of August lie had accumulated oil, morse skins,
and teeth, to the extent of 29 tons, — a good lading,
he observes, for a ship of 50. Accordingly it proved
her ruin. As the last package was brought in she
went entirely to one side, and all the morse skins
which lay loose in the hold, slipping in the same di-
rection, carried her entMly under water. Poole,
who sat in the cabin, considered himself as having
oii> the selection of two deaths, either to be drowned
by remaining, or, in attempting escape, to be killed
by the casks, staves, and divers other things which
were traversing the ship in every direction. He
chose the latter alternative as the least certain, and
though twice beaten down, was plucked from the
jaws of death, being enabled to crawl out with only
his scull laid open, his ears, back, and ribs severely
bruised. The crew, who all escaped, were taken on
board a Hull ship commanded by Thomas Marma-
duke, of whom Poole makes many complaints, which
Purchas, thinking too diffiise, has omitted. Of
Greenland in general Poole observes, that when he
went first, the mountains and plains were almost
white with snow; afterward they appeared green
with grass and a little moss; but, lastly, the sun
with his powerful heat dissolved the ice, and exhaled
such a profusion of vapours, that the day there dif-
fered little from the darkest night elsewhere.

He was, nevertheless, sent out a third voyage in
1613 with two vessels, the Whale and the Seahorse;
but he seems on this occasion also to have busied
MS

138

CAELT FOLAR VOTAOCa.

himself Mlely in the attack of whales, which he
killed to the amount of tUrteen. Nothingr is men
tioned of any thing being eiUier attempted or pro
jected in relation to discorery ; but he relates that
Thomas Marmaduke penetrated to the latitude of 88°
No detail, however, is given, nor have we any nam
tive from Maimaduke himself; which is to be re-

g retted, as he seems to have been more deeply im-
ued with the q|)irit of discovery than an> other
mariner of that time.

The next expedition was in 1613, und« 'Villiam
Baflto, the most learned navigator of th e, and
one of the greatest names in northern discovery. It
vraa not, however, by this voyage that he obtained
his reputation, though he was provided with six good
and well armed ships ; tht object seems to have been
little else than to chase from the Greenland seas all
other vessels that might attempt to use them for
fishery. Their system was, wlwnever they fell in
with a foreign vessel, to summon the master on
board, show the king's commission granted to the
worshipfid Company, and desire them to depart, on
pain of having a cannonade immediately opened upon
them. The strength of the English bemg in genera]
decidedly superior to that of sny other squadron that
appeared in those seas, these terms were usutdly ac-
ceded to without any attempt at opposition. At one
time, indeed, five vessels, Dutch, French, and a large
one of 700 tons from Biscay, mustered, and showed
signs of offering battle ; but the Biscayner having
lost courage and jrielded, the rest were obliged to
follow his example. Another Dutch ship havmg re-
Aised, and endeavoured to make oflT, so brisk a fire
was opened upon her, that die had nearly run on
shore, and was fain to submit A considerable num-
ber of English s^lors seem to have been on board
these foreign ships, who were all, wherever they
could be found, forcibly taken out. It seems difl!-
cult to discover on what ground the English founded
their rij^t to these coasts, since they had neither

IKS.

frhales, which he
Nothings is men
attempted or pro
it he relates that
he latitude of 88°
we weanynmrra
rhich is to be re-
more deeply im-
r than an> other

13, iind« 'Villiam

of tb -e, and
im discovery. It

that he obtained
ded with six good
>ems to have been
reenland seas all

to use them for
lever they fell in
a the master on
n granted to the
lem to depart, on
ately opened upon
1 bemg in general
her squadron that
I were usually ac-
iposition. At one
rench, and a large
ired, and showed
Biscayner having

were obliged to
shshiphavmgre-
>ir, BO brisk a fire
id nearly run on
onsideraUe num-
ve been on board
I, wherever they
It seems difli-
! English founded
they had neither

■AKLY rOhJkR VOTAOSS.

189

oeen the first discoverers, nor held them in any sort
of occupation. In fact, they were not able ultimately
to make good the pretensions assumed in so violent
a manner.'^

^ere is no mention of any anxiety or efforts of
Baflin for the purpose of discovery. On the con-
irary, Marmaduke, who had been again attempting
to penetrate to the north of Spitzblrgen, was chkt
den as having thereby hindered the voyage, and was
prohibited frona any farther attempts of the kind this
season. The former, however, made some curious,
and at that time novel, observations on the effects
o' Jj^fraction, in hi^h northern latitudes.

The Company stiU did not consider the question
of a northern passage decided, as indeed since the
time of Hudson it could not be said to have been
wjnously attempted. In 1614 they appointed Robert
Fotherby.in the Thomasine, to accompany their great
Greenland fleet of ten ships and two pihnacesf and
while the rest were busied in fishery to devote him-
self mainly to discovery. Balfin accompanied him
as pilot. After considerable obstructions, eleven
ships being at one time fast among the i^Mhe cap-

&i''''i''*«* °^.^""*' pushed on to Hakluyt^;
Headland. He endeavoured to penetrate through
Magdalena Bay, which he colls Maudlen Sound ; but
the weather was foul, and the ice lay unbroken bom
shore to shore. On the 10th, the weather peimitting.
he stood farther out, and succeeded in passing to the
north of Hakluyt's Headland; but the^toe^Sw piS
sented an impenetrable barrier. Fotherby then
steered westward, in hopes of a more favourable
opening ; but the ice trending south-west, he sailed
twenty-eight leagues without success, and then its-
turned to the Foreland. About the middle of Jidv
the air becoming clear and favourable, the com-
mander and Baffin ascended a high hill, to see what
prospect there was of getting forward; but. as far

f^A^^ ''""^^ ^rf,™' *?* '"y »Po» »he sea, which
indeed seemed whoUy "boimd with ice," though in

140

XARLT POLAR TOTAOES.

the extreme distance there was an appearance of
open water, which inspired some nope. After
amusing themselves for some days with whale-kill-
ing, they again mounted a very high hill, whence
thev saw an extensive sound, but much pestered
with ice. This was Sir Thomas Smith's Sound,
which they afterward ascended to its head, and found
a good harbour, very advantageously situated for
the whale-fishery.

It was now the 9th of August, and Fotherby saw
two Dutch ships, that had been appointed for north-
em discovery, making their way southward; but
he was determined not to be baffled without some
farther struggle. He pushed to the northward from
Cape Barren, and had made twenty-four leagues,
when he met the ice. He coasted along it for two
days, hoping for some adventure among its shat-
tered fragments ; but a north wind sprang up, with
heavy snow, and every thing being cold, thick, and
winter-like, he was forced again into harbour. The
shore and hill being now covered with snow, the
men's minds became possessed with a desire of re-
turning to England ; but Fotherby was unwilling to
depart without some farther satisfaction. He went
in a boat up RedcliiTe Sound, and though ice was
newly formed upon it, of about the thickness of a
half-crown piece, he pierced through, and got into
open water. The snow, however, continued to fail
thick, and the east wind forcibly blew in the ice, so
that they were glad to return to the ship. Passing
a point, it was observed that a cross which they had
erected, with the king's arms and a sixpence nailed
upon it, had been taken down, " sixpence and all,"
by the Dutch, and Prince Maurice's arms substi-
tuted ; this, however, was speedily redressed.

About the end of August, a gale sprang up from
the south-west, and brought milder weather than at
any former period of the season ; and the strenpth
of the thaw was proved, by the huge masses fallmg
from the snowr banks into the sea, with a noiae

IE8.

in appearance of
ne nope. After
9 with whale-kill-
tigh hill, whence
[t much pestered
I Smith's Sound,
ta head, and found
usly situated for

uid Fotherby saw
minted for north-
southward; but
led without some
e northward from
nty-four leagues,
d along it for two
among its shat-
I sprang up, with
g cold, thick, and
to harbour. The
i with snow, the
ith a desire of re-
was unwilling to
action. He went
1 though ice was
tie thickness of a
[igh, and got into
I continued to fail
)lew in the ice, so
he ship. Passing
IS which they had
a sixpence nailed
ixpence and all,"
ce's arms substi-
redressed.
e sprang up from
r weather than at
and the strength
ige masses falling
sea, with a noiae

BAiay POi.AR VOrAGBS*

141

like thunder. Conceiving better hopes, Fotherby
pushed out again, in a north-west direction, till lie
came nearly to the latitude of 80°, when he heanl a
mighty noise of the waves, as it were, breaking on
an extensive shore. It proved, however, that he was
now on the margin of the great northern ice. He
coasted for some time along that grand barrier; but
was soon embayed, and with difficulty extricated.
1 hs season advancing, he took the benefit of a north
wind to steer homeward, and on the 4th October ar-
rived at Wapping, with his whole crew of twenty-six
men in perfect health.

Fotherby, having recommended himself on this
voyage by spirit and digilence, was sent out next
year (1616) by the worsWpful Company, in the
Uichard, a pmnace of only twenty tons. After many
conflicts with ice and fog,he reached Hakluyt's Heai
land about the beginning of July. He soon began
his career of discovery ; but a strong southerly gale
driving him upon the ice, shattered his bark consi-
derably, and obliged him to return. As soon as his
vessel was refitted, he endeavoured, by a westerly
course, to find an opening among the ice, which pro.
jected m various points and capes, but remained still
fixed, and he found himself pushed by it southward
to the latitude of 76o. We soon find him stiU farthei
west, on what he thought should have been the south-
em part of Hudson's Greenland; and sea-fowls in vast
flocks seemed to indicate land, but the fog lay so
thick, "that he might easier hear land than see
It." However, about lat. 7IJ°, the air cleared, and
he descried a snowy hiU very high amid the clouds;
and the fog lying on each side, made it appear like
a great continent. It proved, however, to be only
an island, probably Jan Mayen ; and as the shores
presented nothing but drift-wood, and appeared
as if fortified with castles and bulwarks of rock,
no shelter was afforded from a heavy gale which
oegan to blow. This induced him to stand out
again to sea. He regained the northern point of

1 ^

I "v'r'ri.A:'^'

142

SARLT POLAR TOTAOEf.

\

Spitzbergen, and began to beat for a Polar pas-
sage. The wind, however, blew so strong from
the north-north-east, that he gave up the attempt,-
only resolving, on his way home, to take a sur^
vey of Hudson's Hold-with-Hope. He came to
the place where it ought to have been, but find-
ing no land, he insisted that Hudson must have
been mistaken in the position assigned to it,— a sus-
picion which lias been recently confirmed by Mr.
Scoresby. Availing himself then of a brisk north-
eriy breeze, he sailed for England.

Fotherby, on being asked as to the prospects of a
passage through these seas, replied, that though he
had not attained in this respect his desire, nothing
yet appeared to exclude hope. There was a spacious
sea between Greenland and Spitzbergen, though
much pestered widi ice ; and he would not dissuade
the worshipful Company from a yearly adventure of
£160, or £200 at the most; and the little pinnace,
with ten men, in which he had sailed two thousand
leagues, appeared to him more convenient for that
puipose than any of larger dimensions. A very lonj
period, however, elapsed before any attempt of thk
nature was resumed. .

f

AOSf.

t for a Polar pas*
!w so strong from
ve up the attempt,-
ne, to take a sur-
>pe. He came to
ive been, but flnd-
fludson must have
signed to it, — a sus-
• confirmed by Mr.
n of a brisk north-
d.

} the prospects of a
ied, that though he
i his desire, nothing
'here was a spacious
ipitzbergen, though
would not dissuade
yearly adventure of
1 the little pinnace,
sailed two thousand
convenient for that
sions. A very long
any attempt of thk

/

BARtT N0RTH-WX8T TOTAOSS. 148

CHAPTER VI.
Early Vo^ si. ho/aJ^orth-Wat Paii$ag

NoTwiTHSTANDUfo the early, repeated, and vigorous
efforts to discover a passage by the east and north*
east, the west was the quarter which finally drew
forth the grandest series of naval enterprise, and flat-
tered the nation longest with the hope of this signal
discovery. The maritime world were yet very Uttla
aware of the immense breadth of America at its
northern limit. That continent was long imagined
to terminate in a cape, after rounding which, and
passing through the strait of Anian,— an imaginary
channel, supposed by the early geographers to sepa-
rate America from Asia, — an entrance would be
opened at once into the Pacific, and the navigator
might proceed full sail to Japan, China, the Spice
Islands, and all the regions abounding in Indian
wealth.

Portugal, first of the European nations, had em-
barked in the career of ocean-discovery. Her mo-
narchs and princes devoted their most anxious study
and all the resources of their kingdom to double the
southern point of Africa, and thereby to overcome
the obstacles opposed by that continent to a direct
commerce with India. Their efforts were crowned
by the discovery of the passage by the Cape, through
which the trade and treasures of the Eastern World
became theirs. This would have been the most
brilliant maritime enterprise ever performed, had it
not been rivalled by the contemporaneous discovery
of America. Enough might seem to have been done
both for the benefit aod the glory of Portugal, with*

144

lAKLT NORTn-WXST V0TA0E9.

out directins the national regources into any other
channel. Yet one of the most illustrious houses of
that kingdom, with much enthusiasm and no small
loss, devoted itself to western navigation. This
house was that of Cortereal ; for a member of which,
John Vaz Cortereal, claims are advanced as having
discovered Newfoundland, nearly a century before
the celebrated vojrages of Columbus or Cabot. In
1600, his son, Caspar Cortereal, immediately upon
the discovery of the Western World, resolved to fol-
low in the steps of Columbus. Having obtained from
the king two vessels, he touched at Terceira, one of
the Azores, proceeded northward, whence he endea-
voured to find his way to India b) some of the higher
latitudes. Respecting the details of this voyage
there remain only detached shreds, which Mr. Barrow
has collected with equal learning and diligence. His
first attempt appears to have been made by the broad
Opening of the Gulf of St Lawrence, which he pro-
bably ascended, till, by the narrowing cha.inel and
the descending current, it was ascertained to termi-
nate in a river, and to afford no hope of a passage
round America. He then steered northwards, and
passed along a coast which Europeans have since com-
monly called Labrador, but which in the early maps
beara from him the name of Corterealis. In some of
the relations, this coast is called Terra Verde (Green-
land), but it has nothing in common with the coun-
Sto which Europeans have almost as improperly
xed that name. The territory is represented as
amply stocked with timber,— a description which
applies to the spacious forests of fir and pine that
elothe the region immediately north of Canada. The
natives are correctly descrilied as of small stature, —
a simple and laborious race;— and no less than fifty-
seven being allured or carried on boafd, were con-
veyed to Portugal. After a run along this coast, es-
tinated at eight hundred miles, Cortereal came to a
legion which appeared to some as lying almost be-

0TA0E9.

ees into any other
lustrioui houses of
asm and no small
navigation. This
I member of which,
dvanced as having
' a century before
bus or Cabot. In
immediately upon
rid, resolved to fol<
ving obtained from
It Terceira, one of
whence he endea-
some of the higher
s of this voyage
which Mr. Barrow
nd diligence. His
made by the broad
ice, which he pro-
mng cha.inel and
ertained to termi<
hope of a passage
d northwards, and
ns have since com-
in the early maps
etUii. In some of
rru Verde (Green-
m with the coun-
lost as improperly
is represented as
description which
fir and pine that
I of Canada. Tlie
•f small stature, —
no less than fifty,
board, were con-
ong this coast, es-
trtereal came to a
Ijring almost be-

KASLT NORTH-West VOTAOES.

140

neath the Pole, and similar to that formerly reached
by Nicolo and Antonio Zeno. Ramusio more explU
citly states the highest latitude attained as oidy
60 , which would place the vessels about the en-
trances into Hudson's Bay. But the season must
.h« d7® ''••'" far advanced; and the approach of
the Polar wmter, the floating mountains of ice, the
thick snows which filled the air.-all the gloomy
characteristics of an Arctic winter,-mu8t, to a crew
accustomed only to navigate the warm and temperate
seas, nave appeared peculiarly terrible. It was
'W^l .u"°^''^"*^'y necessary to return to Portugnl.
1 nat this necessity, however, was considered to arise
irom the season only, and that no general panic was
strack into the mmd of this intrepid navigator, was
sufficiently testified by his appearing on thi sea next
season with two vessels, which he guided directly to
the most northerly point of the former voyage. Here
he 18 described as entering a strait, Huron's per-
haps, or more probably Frobisher's; but at this cri-
tical point of the voyage the vessels were separated
^''uTP***' *"^ probably by the floating ices with
which these straits are infested. One of them sue
ceeded in extncating itself, and searched for some
time in vain for its lost consort; but that which had
on board the gallant leader of the expedition returned
no more, and no trace could ever be obtained of
Its fate.

When these gloomy tidings were conveyed to Por-
tugal, Miguel Cortereal, a younger brother, animated
with the most tender affection to Gaspw, and with a
congemal spirit of enterprise, determined to depart
m search of him. Early next spring, having equipped
three veskels, he saUed on the lOth May, im, from
the port of Lisbon. On arriving at the numerous
opemngs into Hudson's Bay, the captains adopted
the plan ofseparating, and each exploring a particu-
lar inlet. This, however, in some respects promising,
was an imprudent step ; for nothing could have more

t^S

^S'WUfflkwmr

146

KARtV NOATH-WKST TOTAOIS.

conduced to inutiml safoty than to liave kept clowj
toijcther, and aiderl each oihtjr in those dreatlful exi-
gencies to wliich this navigation is liable. It proved
a fatal measure ; two of the vessels indeed met and
returned ; but Miguel and his crow shared the fato
of those whom they had gone to seek, — they returned
not ; and it was never known whtire or how they
perished. The survivors reported at Lisbon this
heavy aggravation of tlie former distress. Fraternal
affection and daring courage seem to have throughout
charaiiterized this noble race. There was still a
third brother, Vasco Eanes, who besought of the
king permission to search for his lost kindred even
amid the abysses of this vast ocean ; but to this pro-
ject a royal veto was absolutely interposed, the king
declaring that it was too much to have lost in this
cause two of his best and most faithful servants.
After a commencement so gloomy, aiid such gallant
efforts made in vain, it does not appear that the pro-
ject of a northern passage was ever revived in Por-
tugal.

Spain, which had made the discovery of America,
and from that success derived so much glory and
wsalth, might have been expected to take a peculiar
interest in every thing connected with its farther ex-
ploration. The fact however appears to be, that, re-
velling among the rich plains and glittering treasures
of Mexico and Peru, she felt little uttraction towards
the bleak confines of the northern Pole. Only one
very early voyage is mentioned, that, namely, which
was undertaken, in 1534, by Gomez, witli a view of
discovering a shorter passage to the Moluccas. He
is said to have brought home a few of the natives ;
but no record is preserved either of the events which
attended his enterprise or even of the coast on which
he arrived. There remains of it, as has been ob-
served, only a jest, and one so indifferent as not to ,
be worth repeating. The chief exertions of Spain
for a passage were made from Mexico along ilte

'OTAOia.

to liave kept done
tliose Ureaclful exi-
8 liable. It proved
e!a indeed met and
uw sliared the fate
sek, — they returned
here or how Ihvy
cd at Lishon this
liHtrc8s. Fraternal
to have throughout
There waa still a
a be80ught of the

lost kindred even
in ; but to this pro-
nterposed, the king
.0 have lost in this

faithful servants,
y, aiid such gallant
ppear that the pro-
ver revived in Por-

;overy of America,
lo muuh glory and
1 to take a peculiar
with its farther ex-
ears to be, that, re-
glittering treasures
iittraction towards
n Pole. Only one
hat, namely, which
lez, with a view of
the Moluccas. He
BW of the natives ;
)f the events which
the coast on which
t, as has been ob-
different as not to
exertions of Spain
Mexico along ilie

XAntY WORTH-WEST TOTAOES.

14

north-west coast of Anirricai but thrsc we do not
propose to include in the present narrative.

Britain now took up tliis train of discovery, and
made it almost exclusively lier own. Her cffortn in-
deed were long in vain : the barric^rs of natiire wero
too mighty, and Am(!ri(!a, stretching hor boundaries
into regions tiiat lie beneath the perpetual sway of
the northern tempest, afforded only a precarious and
doubtful navigation. Kngland, however, has since
earned high glory in this career ; she has formed in
it some of her greatest naval cc mmjmders, has ofxtned
new chimnels for fishery, fixed the limits of the
western continent, and explored the M'ide seas and
large islands which range along its northern boundarj'.

The few attempts at northern discovery made in
the reign of Henry VIII. were all in this direction.
In 1697, that prince was so far wrought upon by the
representations of Mr. Robert Thome of Bristol, as
to fit out two handsome vessels, having on board
" divers cunning men," for the purpose of seeking
and describing strange regions. The chroniclers
liowever. Hall and Grafton, who narrate this u.jder-
taking, have not vouchsaied any report upon the re-
sult,—a negligence deeply deplored by Hakluyt, who,
by the most anxious inquiry, could only learn froni
Sir Martin Frobisher and Mr. Richard Allen, that one
of the ships was called Dominus Vob'scum, and
that one of the cunning men was a canon of St.
Paul's. His name is unknown ; but he was a great
mathematician, and wealthy, and shared the voyage
in person. Hakluvt was also informed, that the ex-
pedition had steered first to the north of Newfoimd-
land, where one of the vessels, adventuring into a
deep and dangerous gulf, was cast away ; the other
then moved southwaid, and having made observations
on Cape Breton and other coasts, returned to Eng-
land in October.

This undertaking was followed, nine years there-
after, by another, set on foot by Mr. Hore of London,

^^^^^^^^^Mm&^^^m^^^M^m^^^^^

i

148

■ARtY NORTH-WIST TOTAOII.

a wealthy and entRrprinini? individual, who easily in-
duced thirty youHK Reiitlcnion of family and fortune,
•onie of whom were (mm the Inns of Court, to em-
bark alonjf with him. Hakluyt had here enually to
lament the absence of written records ; but tie found
out Mr. Oliver Dawbony, who sailed in one of the
vessels; and having learned that a son* of Sir Wil-
liam Huts of Norfolk had been of the party, and was
atill ilive, he rode two hundred miles for the purpose
of conversin^r with that ^ntleman. From these
sources h«j collected, that this ^ay band of volunteers,
mustered in military array at Gnivosend, and having
taken the sacrament, went on board. They had a
long and tedious voyage, during which their buoyant
spirits considerably nagged. At the end of two
months they reached Gape Breton, then held as
part of the West Indies. Thence, in fulfilment of
their views, they endeavoured to shape a more
northerly course. They reached Penguin Island, the
same probably since called Birds' Island, abounding
so remarkably in fowls as large as a goose, and even
in bears, which made such tolerable food, that all
their wants were supplied. Having proceeded to
Newfoundland, Dawbeny one day called on his com-
rades to come and view a boat with the « natural
people of the country," whom they hal earnestly de-
sired to see. A barge was fitted out to treat with
them ; but the savages, alarmed, fled precipitately,
relinquishing the side of a bear which tney had been
roasting; and all attempts to overtake them were
fruitless. This coast appears to have been singularly
barren and desolate. Food, it was said, could be pro-
cured only by purloining from the nest of an oeprey
the fish collected for her young. It seems strange
that they should have remained on such a shore ; but
famine soon rose to such a pitch as to drive them to
a most friprhlful extremity. Several of them waylaid
a compamon, killed him, and deposited his flesh in a
secret place, to which they repaired, and having

ovMtn.

ual, who easily in-
ramily and foitune,
s of ('oiirt, to em-
id here eoually to
anlR; but he found
ilod in one of the
a ton of Sir Wil-
the party, and was
ies for the puiposo
lan. From these
land of volunteers,
rosend, and having
lard. They had a
hieh their buoyant
t the end of two
:on, then held aa
'■e, in fulfilment of
to shape a more
*enguin Island, the
Island, abounding
a goose, and even
ible food, that all
iiig proceeded to
called on his com-
vith the "natural
r ha.l earnestly de-
out to treat with
fled precipitately,
lich they had been
;rtuke them were
ve been singularly
said, could be pro-
nest of an oeprey
It seems strange
such a shore; but
8 to drive them to
il of them waylaid
lited his flesh in a
ired, and having

RARI.Y NORTfl-WKST VOVAOIS.

140

oasted it in siiccp^iKivo portions, eagerly fed upon it
An accKlt'iit bfiniyi'd tliis dreiuiful seciet. One oi
the company, walking with another, smelt the savour
ol broiled meat, and reproached his comnwie with
keeping a private hoard, wiiilc others wen; in such
learful want. They came to high words, when the
giulty person said, " Well if you will have it, it is a

iMcce of '8 flesh." Thi. being rejwrted with

Horror to the captain, he called together his crew,
and solemnly representing to them the dreadful guilt
they had incurred, obtained a promise to desist. The
lumme, however, becoming always more cruel, the
were at length driven to a systematic mode of cann-
ing on the same horrible course, and had arranged
the casting of lots to decide whose life should be
sacnfleed to save the rest, when a French ship ap-
peared m view. Finding it to be both in good order
and well stored with provisions, the Knglisii scrupled
not to atta(rk and seize it, recommending the ejected
crew to the ill-provided bark which they themselves
had left. They made their way in all haste home,
which they reached in the most squalid and miserable
state. So changed was young Buts, that neither Sir
William nor his mother could recognise him, till he
displayed a secret mark which proved him to be their
son. fticantime the Frenchmen arrived in their own
country, and raised loud complaints against the cruel
and unwarrantable manner in which tlie English had
treated tliem. Henry, unable to deny the extreme
hardship of their case, yet moved with pity towards
his own subjects, whom he was miwiUing to punish,
liberallvpaid from his private purse the fuU extent
of the loss.

From so slight a narrative, it were rash to form
any very positive conclusion; yet we cannot help
observing, that there is little appearance of the ad-
venturers having gone out duly prepared for theii
»ard and ardwoim undertaking, and little display o

N a

iftO

EARLY NORTH-WEST TOTAOES.

nautical skill, pradence, or good conduct, in the wtiole
of the expedition.

After so disastrous a trial, the spirit of western
discovery slumbered. The great zeal kindled in the
succeeding reiga of Edward VI. turned wholly to
the eastward, producing the voyages of Sir Hugh
Willoughby and others, which have been recorded in
a former chapter. It was otherwise with the spirit
of enterprise which revived under Queen Elizabeth.
That princess, however, though abundantly inclined
to favour whatever might contribute to the glory
and interests of her kingdom, did not originate or
prompt any of these schemes. Sir Humphrey Gil-
bert and Mr. Richard Willis wrote treatises, where
learned observations were combined with fanciful
reasonings and erroneous reports, but all calculated
to influence the public mind in support of such
undertakings. The first voyage was planned and
conducted by Martin Frobisher, an oflicer who after-
ward distinguished himself by naval exploits in
every quarter of the globe, but who earned his early
fame by contending with the snows and tempests of
the northern deep. Frobisher, regarding the westerr
passage as the only great thing still left undone
m the world, solicited for fifteen years, in city and
court, the means of equipping a small flotilla capable
of accomplishing this important object. The mer-
cantile bodies manifested a coldness very unlike the
zeal displayed on former occasions ; but some lead.
ing men at court were at last more propitious, and
through the favour of the Earl of Warwick, Fro-
bisher was enabled, in the year 1576, to equip three
vessels, respectively of 35, 30, and 10 tons. These
little barks, or rather boats, seemed ill fitted for
ploughing the Arctic deep; yet Mr. Scoresby has
observed, that such vessels are better calculated for
threading their way through channels obstructed
oy ice, and even for withstanding somewhat rude

OTAOES.

mduct, in the ^ole

i spirit of Mrestern
zeal kindled in the
turned wholly to
rages of Sir Hugh
re been recorded in
,vise with the spirit
r Queen Elizabeth,
ibundantly inclined
ibute to the glory
1 not originate or
Sir Humphrey Gil-
»te treatises, where
lined with fanciful
I, but all calculated
1 support of such
was planned and
n officer who after-
naval exploits in
ho earned his early
va and tempests of
yarding the westerr
: still left undone
years, in city and
nail flotilla capable
object. The mer-
less very unlike the
ns ; but some lead,
ore propitious, and
of Warwick, Fro-
576, to equip three
d 10 tons. These
imed ill fitted for
Mr. Seoresby has
;tter calculated for
lannels obstructed
ig somewhat rude

EARLV NORTH-WEST TOYAOEB.

10]

Bhouks from it, than larger alld more unwieldy
fabrics.

Frobisher, on the 8th June, dropped down from
Deptford to Greenwich, where the court then resided,
and, in passing by the palace, fired a round in his
best style. The (jueen looked from the windows,
cheering and waving her hand, and Secretary Wal-
singham came on board the vessels, wished them
success, and exhorted the crews to good order and
obedience. On the 12th the expedition passed Til-
bury Hope, and having on the 19th reached Yar-
mouth, stood thence out to sea. On the 86th Fro-
bisher saw before him Swinbome (Sumburgh) Head,
the bold southern promontory of Shetland, while he
had Fair Isle to the nort'i-west. In the ocean-navi'
gation which followed, he has only recorded his dis-
tances, latitudes, and directions. On the 11th July
he saw a range of awful and precipitous summits,
which, even in the height of summer, were all white
with snow. He concluded tliis coast to be the Fries-
land of Zeno, but in fact it was the southern point
of Greenland near Cape Farewell. A boat put out
towards the coast, but found it so barred with ice
and obscured by fog, that it waa impossible to land.
The navigators now steered westward, suffering se-
verely from northerly gales. On the 14th the wujd
shattered their foreyard, aad bore the mizenmast
overboard; and on the 16th the topmast with its sail
broke oflF, and fell into ihe sea. They continued to
press on; and upon ,'ht 22d a thick mist dispersing,
showed a long rango of coast, judged to be Labra-
dor. Ice, however, fc/med an impassable barriei
between them and th 3 land, while the line went down
100 fathoms without touching ground. The current
was ven' strong, but, from the impossibility of com-
ing to anchor, could not be measured ; yet it seemed
not less than a league and a half an hour. On the
1st August the discoverers approached to make ob-
servations on a large island of ice, which, as they

152

XARLT NORTH-MTXST VOTAGES.

>l

were viewing it, went to pieces, and fell into the sea
with a tremendous crash.

On the 18th they reached a more accessible coast
and becamo desirous to ascertain if it was inhabited.
Seeing seven boats plying along the beach, they sent
out one of their own, the crew of which, by holding
up a white cloth, induced a native canoe to approach;
but, on seeing the ship, the people immediately turned
back. Frobisher then went on shore, and, by the
distribution of several little presents, enticed one of
thern to come on board. This person, being well
treated with meat and drink, made on his return so
favourable a report, that nineteen followed his ex-
ample. The sailors had then a full opportunity of
observing this Esquimaux race. They are described
as " like to Tartars, with long black hair, broad faces,
and flat noses, having boats of seal-skin, with a keel
of wood within the skin." Next day they appeared
more shy, and with some difficulty one of them, by
the allurement of a bell, was drawn on board. Fro-
bisher, having no intention to detain him, sent a boat
with five men to put him on shore at the angle of a
rock ; but these, urged by curiosity and blinded by
false confidence, went on to join the main body of
the natives — a fatal step ; they were never allowed
to return. Frobisher spent two days firing guns,
and making inquiries at every point, but without
BDccess.

On the 2€th August, without any very particular
reason assigned, our navigator weighed for home ;
when passing by Greenland and Iceland, and coming
in view of Orkney, the Texel, and Yarmouth, he
reached Harwich in the beginning of October.

Frobisher had made little progress towards a west-
em passage ; yet, having with such slender means
penetrated thus far, and discovered a new country,
dignified with the title of Meta Incognita, his voyage
was considered highly creditable, and as affording
good promise for the future. The public intereui

rOTAGES.

and fell into the sea

)re accessible coast
I if it was inhabited^
the beach, they sent
f which, by holding
canoe to approach;
immediately turned
shore, and, by the
ents, enticed one of
person, being well
ade on his return so
!n followed his ex-
full opportunity of
They are described
ck hair, broad faces,
;al-8kin, with a keel
t day they appeared
Ity one of them, by
wn on board. Fro-
ain him, sent a boat
e at the angle of a
sity and blinded by
1 the main body of
irere never allowed
) days firing guns,
point, but without

any very particular
(veighed for home ;
[celand, and coming
and Yarmouth, he
g of October,
'ess towards a west-
uch slender means
Ted a new country,
icognitii, his voyage
e, and as affording
Phe public interest

XARLT NORTH-WEST T0TA8ES.

153

was excited by another circumstance of a very illu
Boty nature. AU his friends importuned him to cive
them something or other which had come from Meta
incogmta. At a loss to satisfy this avidity, he cast
his eyes on a large stone which, from its glittering
^pearance, he had been induced to take on board.
He broke it into pieces, and distributed them amonp
the circle of his acquaintances. One portion was
received by a lady, who happened to drop it into the
lire, where, after burning for some time, it appeared
to glitter like gold. Being thereupon carried before
tfte goldsniiths, they were so ignorant, or so misled
by the enthusiasm of the age, as to pronounce it a
valuable ore of the most precious of metals. This
false decision threw all England into a ferment of
joy. There was no difficulty now in equippinjr an
expedition. The queen contributed the ship Ayde
or 180 tons, besides means for enabling Frobisliei
to fit out two other vessels, the Michael and Ga
Dnel, of 30 tons each. Being invited to visit the
queen at Lord Warwick's seat in Essex, he re-
ceived her r-ajesty's hand to kiss, with many gracious
expressions. ' *

Frobisher sailed on the 86th May, 1677, with such
/.i!"^J?? ^"^i that on the 8th June he touched
at the Orkneys for fresh water, aUowing his gentle-
men and soldiers to go on shore for recreation? The
poor mhabitants, having, it is probable, suffered from
the uuroads of pirates, fled from their houses with
ones and shneks, but were soon, 1^ courteous treat-
ment, induced to return. Their accommodations
were found truly, miserable ; they had no vent for
smoke, but a fire in the middle of the house, on one
«de of which dwelt the family, and on the other the
catUe,— oatcakes and ewe-milk their only food. The
Knglish now entered on their perilous voyage throujrh
the northern ocean, during which they were much
cheered with the perpetual light, which aUowed
them at aU hours to read or otherwise amuse them-

I! It

164

EARLY NORTH-WEST TOVAOEB.

selves ; which is observed to be peculiijrly cheering
to such as " wander in unknown seas and long navi-
gations, where both the winds and raging surges do
pass their common course." They were surprised
to see large fir-trees, torn up by the roots, floating in
the midst of the ocean. On the 4th of July Friesland
presented its awful front, consisting of a range of
inaccessible mountains entirely covered with snow,
unless where, from the extreme steepness of the
cliffs, it had broken off and fallen into the sea.
During four days' sail, they saw, %vhenevcr the thick
fogs for a moment dispersed, a similarly dreary coast,
without any landing-place, and without a sign of
human habitation or even of life ; yet little birds, ap-
parently bewildered amid the mist, came and alighted
on board, and gave the impression that there might
be a milder region in the interior. But the inexpe-
rienced part of the crew were especially struck by
the islands of ice, rising thirty or forty fathoms above
the water, and- rooted at the bottom of seas whicli
the line could not fathom.

Frobisher now sailed across to Labrador, and
touched at the sound which received his name. The
coast, however, was found guarded by a mighty wall
of ice, which the ships could not penetrate; but the
captain, with two of his boats, worked his way into
the strait, and began to survey the country and people.
So crude were then the ideas respecting the geogra-
phy of these regions, that tliey imagined the coast
on their left to be America, and tliat on their right
Asia. Landing on the American side they scrambled
to the top of a hill, and erected a column, which,
after the great patron of the expedition, was called
Mount Warwick. On their return, cries were heard
like the lowing of bulls, and a large body of natives
ran up to them in a veiy gay and cordial manner.
They began an eager traffic for the trifling ornaments
displayed by their visiters, yet declined every invita-
tion to go on board, while the English on their part

TOVAOEB.

peculiijrly cheering
I seas and long navi-
nd raging surges do
rhey were surprised
the roots, floating in
4th of July Friesland
isting of a range of

covered with snow,
le steepness of the
'alien into tiie sea.
, whenever the thick
inilarly dreary coast,
i without a sign of
; yet little birds, ap-
st, came and alighted
on that there might
)r. But the inexpe-
especially struck by

forty fathoms above
attom of seas which

IS to Labrador, and
ived his name. The
ded by a mighty wall
jt penetrate; but the
worked his way into
e country and people,
specting the geogra-
imagined the coast
1 tliat on their right
1 side they scrambled
ed a column, which,
:pedition, was called
im, cries were heard
arge body of natives
and cordial manner.
he trifling ornaments
leclined every invita-
Snglish on their part

SARLT NORTH-WEST VOYAGES.

165

did not choose to accede to their overtures of going
into the country. Frobisher and a companion, meet-
ing two of the natives apart, rashly seized and began
dragging them to the boats, hoping there to gain their
friendship by presents and courtesy. On the slippery
ground, however, their feet gave way, the Esqui-
maux broke loose, and found behind a rock their
bows and arrows, whic'.i they began to discharge
with great fury. Frobisher and his comrade, seized
With a panic scarcely justified by two such miserable
assailants, fled full speed, and the captain reached
the boat with an arrow sticking in his leg. The
crew, imagining that something truly serious must
have driven back their commander in such discom-
fiture, gave the alarm, and ran to the rescue. Tlie
two barbarians instantly fled ; but Nicholas Conger,
a stout fellow, servant to Lord Warwick, seized one
of them and dragged him into the boat.

Meantime the ships outside were involved in a
dreadful tempest, being tossed amid those tremen-
dous ice-islands, the least of which would have been
suflicient to have crushed them into a thousand pieces.
To avoid dangers which so closely beset them, they
were obliged to tack fourteen times in four hours ;
but with the benefit of the perpetual light, the skill
of their steersman, and the aid of Providence, they
weathered the tempest, without the necessity of
driving out to sea and abandoning the boats. On
the 19th, Frobisher came out with a large store of
glittering stone ; upon which, says Dionise Little,
" we were all rapt with joy, forgetting both where
we were and what we had suffered. Behold," says
he, " the gloiy of man,— to-night looking for death,
to-morrow devising how to satisfy his greedy appe-
tite with gold." J 6 J ftr-

A north-west gale now sprang up ; before which,
like magic, the mighty barriers of ice by which the
ships had been shut out melted away. They had
now a broad and open passage by which they entered

l-M,

% ,

168

KAHLT NORTH-WBBT TOTAOEfl.

the Sonnd, which, in the conception of the English,
was a strait leading into the Pacific Ocean. In a
run of upwards of thiity leagues they landed at differ-
. ent points, and, mounting to the tops of hills, took
possession of the country, with solemn and sacred
ceremonies, in name of her majesty. Having found
in cne place a bridle of singular construction, they
examined their captive upon it, who thereupon seized
a dog, attached the bridle, yoked the animal in a
sledge, and exiiibited the Esquimaux mode of driving.
Tliis person admitted knowledge respecting the five
men captured in the pieceding year, but repelled
most strenuously the signs by which the English in-
timated their belief that they had been killed and
eaten. However, a dark source of suspicion was
soon opened; for some boats of the natives were
found, which, along with bones of dogs, flesh of un-
known animals, and other strange things, contained
an English canvass, loublet, a shirt, a girdle, three
shoes for contrary feet* — apparel which, beyond all
doubt, belonged to their countrymen lost in the pre-
ceding year. Anxiously hoping to recover them, they
left a letter in the boat, and pen, ink, and paper, with
which to return an answer. Still more vigorous mea-
sures were determined upon to recover or avenge
them. A party of forty, under Charles . Jackman,
marched iidand to take the natives in the rear, and
drive ihem upon the coast, where Frobisher with his
boats waited to intercept them. The wretches had
removed their tents into the interior; but the invaders,
after marching over several mountains, descried an-
other cluster of hrts, supposed at first to belong to a
different party; but the agitation and alarm visible
the instant the v were observed, showed that this was
the guilty band. Tlie Esquimaux, hastening to their
canoes, pushed out full speed to sea; and they rowed
with a rapidity which would have baffled all pursuit,
had not Frobisher with his boats held the entrance
of the Sound and there awaited them. As soon a*

"".-:>":iJ^i»iii#p^jAsM3ffeitejis^^

rOTAOXS.

lion of the English,
acific Ocean. In a
liey landed at differ^

tops of hills, took
solemn and sacred
sty. Having found
■ construction, they
10 thereupon seized
id the animal in a
ux mode of driving,
respecting the five
year, but repelled
iich the EngHsh in-
ad been killed and
! of suspicion was

the natives were
r dogs, flesh of un«
e things, contained
lift, a girdle, three
1 wliich, beyond all
len lost in the pre«
recover them, they
ik, and paper, with
nore vigorous mea-
recover or avenge
Charles . Jackman,
es in tlie rear, and
Frobisher with his
The wretches had
r; but the invaders,
tains, descried an-
first to belong to a
and alarm visible
owed that this was
, hastening to their
a; and they rowed
baffled all pursuit,
held the entrance
hem. As soon as

EARLY NORTH-WEST VOTAOES.

157

they saw themselves thus beset, they landed among
the rocks, abandoning their skiffs, which they hoped
to render useless by breaking the oars. The English
rushed on with alacrity to the assault; but the na-
tives, stationed on the rocks, resisted the landing,
and stood their ground with the most savage and
desperate valoim Overwhelmed with clouds of
arrows, they picked them up, plucking them even
out of their bodies, and returned them with fury.
On feeling themselves mortally wounded, they
plunged from the rocks i'^* > the sea, lest they sliould
fall into the hands of ti o conquerors. At length,
completely worsted, and having lost five or six of
their number, they sprang up among the chflfs and
eluded pursuit. There fell into the liands of tlie
assailants only two females, who caused some specu-
lation. One was stricken in years, and presented a
visage so singulariy hideous as suggested to many no
less a suspicion than that the great enemy of man-
kind stood before them in person. Thjs impression
gaining ground, it was resolved to apply a test then
considered infallible. Her buskins were plucked off,
to ascertain if she presented that peculiar stucture
of the lower extremities supposed to characterize
the dread foe of the human race. As this essential
character was found wanting, it was merely deter-
mined, by liberating her, to deliver their eyes from
BO distressing a spectacle. The other female was
young, with a child in her arms; and being, from
her peculiar costume, mistaken for a man, had been
fired at and the child wounded. It was in vain to
apply remedies; she licked off with her tongue the
dressings and salves, and cured it in her own way.
She and the msUe captive formerly taken looksd
strange at first, but, on biecoming intimate, found much
comfort in each other's society, and showed a strong
mutual attachment.

Frobisher still cherished hopes of recovering his
men. A large party appearing on the top of a hjiu,
O

108

KARLY NORTH-WEST VOYAaES.

nignn were made of a desire for mutual accommoda-
tion. A few of them advanced, and were introduceil
to the captives. The parties were deeply affected,
and spent some time without uttering a word ; tears
then flowed ; and wlien they at hist found speech, it
was in tones of tenderness and regret, which pre-

Cossessed the English mu'^h ir their favour. Fro-
ishcr now came forward and propounded, that on
condition of restoring h»^ five men, they should re-
ceive back their ow captives, with the addition of
sundry of those littic ^ifts and presents on whicli they
set the highest value. This they promised, and also
to eonvej etter to the prisoners. Doubtless by
this time tu.; captives lived no longer, and the natives
had no means of amicably redeeming their pledge ;
but they determined, by force or stratagem, to effect
their purpose. Three men appeared holding up flags
of bladder, mviting the invaders to approach; but the
latter, who saw the heads of others peeping from
behind the rpcks, resolved to proceed with the utmost
caution. The natives began by placing in view large
pieces of excellent meat ; and wh;;n their enemy comd
not be caught by that bait, a man advanced very close,
feigning lameness, and seeming to offer himself an
easy prey. Frobis)ier allowed a shot to be fired, by
which the person was cured at once, and took to hiar
heels. Seeing all their artifices fail, the barbarians
determined upon main force, and pouring down to
the number of a hundied, discharged their arrows
with the utmost fury. They even followed a con-
siderable way along the coast, regardless of the
English shot ; but the vessels meanwhile were too
distant from the shore io suffer the slightest annoy-
ance. Several of the seamen importuned Frobisher
to allow them to land and attack ; but this he refused,
as only calculated to divert them from the main
object, and to cause useless bloodshed.

The 21st of August had now arrived, the ice was
beginning to form around the ships, and, though little

' VOYAQES.

r mutual accommoda-
[, aiid were introducei]
were deeply aflected,
ttering a word ; tears
t last found speech, it
id regret, which pre-
: their favour. I'ro-
. propounded, that on
men, they should ro-
with the addition of
resents on which they
ey promised, and also
)ner8. Doubtless by
ingcT, and the natives
icmiuj^ their pledge;
ir stratagem, to effect
;ared holding up flaga
I to approach; but tlie
others peeping from
iceed with the utmost
placing in view large
vjii their enemy coiud
advanced very close,
', to offer himself an
a shot to be fired, by
once, and took to hiar
I fail, the barbarian*
nd pouring down to
harged their arrows
ven followed a con-
t, regardless of the
meanwhile were too
the slightest annoy-
nportuned Frobisher
; but this he refused,
lem from the main
3dshed.

arrived, the ice was
ips, and, though little

EABLY NORTH-WESf TOYAOES.

ISO

Krogress had been made towards China, the seamen
ad put on board two hundred tons of the precious
ore. They therefore mounted the highest hill, fired
a vollcjf in honour of the Countess of Warwick, and
made their way home.

Notwithstanding the vicissitudes whichhad marked
this voyage, its arrival was hailed with the utmost
exultation. Knthusiiism and hope, both with the
queen and the nation, rose higher than ever. The
delusion of the golden ore continued in full fonie, and
caused those desolate shores to be regarded as
another Peru. Special conunissioners, men of judg-
ment, art, and skill, were named by her majesty to
ascertain both the quality of the ore and the pros-
pects of the voyage to India. After due inquiry, a
most favourable report was made on both subjects,
and it was recommended not only that a new expe-
dition on a great scale, should be fitted out, but a
colony established on that remote coast, wlio might
at once be placed in full possession of its treasures,
and be on the watch for every opportunity of farther
discovery. To brave the winter of the Polar world
was a novel and daring enterprise ; yet such was then
the national spirit, that the appointed number of a
hundred was quickly filled up. There were forty
mariners, thirty miners, and thirty soldiers, in which
last number were oddly included, not only gentlemen,
but gold-finers, bakers, and carpenters. Materials
were sent on board the vessels, which, on being put
together, might be converted into a fort or house.
The squadron fitted out was the largest that had yet
adventured to plough the northern deep. H consisted
of fifteen vessels, furnished by various ports, espe-
cially by those of the west, and the rendezvous took
place at Harwich on the 27th May, 1578, whence they
■ailed on the 31st. The captains waited on tho
queen at Greenwich, and were personally addressed
by her in the most gracious manner ; Frobisher re-
ceiving a chain of gold, and the honour of kissing
her majesty's band

100

EARLY NORTH-WKST VOTAOE0.

Occasion was formerly taken to observe, that ex-
peditions got up on the (freatest scale, and with the
most ample means, usually proved the most Bnfortu-
nate. A larffe and encumbered fleet was ill calculated
to steer tlirough the ice-entangled straits, and amid
the mightv mountains which were floating over the
northern deep. On reaching the Queen's Foreland,
at »he openuig of Frobisher's Strait, the navigators
found It frozen over from side to side, and barred, as
It were, with Huccessive walls, mountains, and bul-
warks. A strong easterly wind had driven numerous
icebergs upon the coast, and hence the navigation
annd these huge moving bodies soon became most
perilous. The Dennis, a large vessel, on board of
w.::;.:. was part of ihe projected house, received such
a tremendous blow from a mountain of ice, that it
wentdown instantly, though theother8hipH,hastening
to its aid, succeeded in saving the men. This specta-
cle struck panic into the other crews, who felt that
the same fate migtit next moment be their own. The
danger was much augmented when the gale increased
to a tempest, and the icy masses, tossing in every
direction, struck furiously against the aides of the
vessels. Invention was now variously at work to
find means ot safety. Some moored themselves to
these floating islands, and being carried about along
with them, escaped the outrageous blows which they
must otherwise have encountered. Others held sus-
pended by tlie sides of the ship oars, planks, pikes,
poles, every thing by which the violence of the shocks
might be broken ; yet the ice, "aided by the surging
of the sea and billow," was seen to break in pieces
Blanks three inches thick. Frobisher considers it as
ledoundmg highly to the glory of his poor miners
and landsmen, wholly unused to such a scene, that
mey faced with heroism the assembled dangers that
oesieged them round. « At length, it pleased God
with his eyes of mercy to look down from heaven,"
—a brisk south-west wind dispersed the ice, and
gave them an open sea through which to navigate.

VOTAOEI.

to observe, that ez<
scale, and with the
ed the most mirortu-
net was ill calculated
ed straits, and amid
te floating over the
i Queen's Foreland,
trait, the navigators
) side, and barred, as
mountains, and buN
lad driven numerous
ence the navigation
soon became most
vessel, on board of
louse, received such
itain of ice, that it
Ihcrships.hasteningf
men. This specta-
rews, who felt that
be their own. The
n the gale increased
3, tossing in every
St the sides of the
iriously at work to
)ored themselves to
carried about along
;s blows which they
. Others held sus-
)ar8, planks, pikes,
ilence of the shocks
ided by the surging
to break in pieces
sher considers it as
jf his poor miners
such a scene, that
nbled dangers that
th, it pleased God
)wn from heaven,"
^rsed the ice, and
hich to navigate.

KARLV NORTll-WfiST VOVAOES.

After a few days spent in repairing the vessels, and
su^,)pmg up the lesiks, Frobisher bent afresh all his
efforts to wnetrato inward to the spot where he was
to lound his colony. After considorablo effort, he
mad.; ins way into the strait, when he discovered that
lie was sailing iMstween two coasts; but amid the
gloomy mists, and the thick snow wliirh fell ii. liis
northern midsummer, nothing could bo distii |y
seen. As, however, clear intervals oc( asionally oc-
curred, affording partial glimpses of the land, tlie
surmise arose, that this was not the shore along
which they had formerly sailed. Frobisher would
not listen to a suggestion which would have con-
victed him of having thrown away much of his time
and labour. He still pressed onward. Once the
manners imagined they saw Mount Warwick, but
were soon undeceived. At length, Christopher Hall,
ctuef pilot, stood up and declared, in hearing of all
the crew, that he never saw tliis coast before. Fro-
bisher still persevered, sailing along a country more
populous, more verdant, and better stocked with birds,
than the one formerly visited. In fact, «his was pro-
liably the main entrance into Hudson's B,iy, by con-
tinuing m which he would have made the most impor-
taut discoveries. But all his ideas of mineral wealth
and successful passage were associated with the old
strait; and, on being obliged to own that this was a
diflerent one, he turned back to the open sea. In this
retreat the fleet was so involved in fogs and violent
currents, and so beset with rocks and islands, that
the sailors considered it only by a special interposition
?L ™^u''^"^^i^^' "'"y w"« brought out in safety.
When they had reached ths open sea, and arrived at
the mouth of the desired strait, it was almost as
diJhciilt to find an entrance. However, Frobisher
was constantly on the watch, and wherever there
appeared any opening, it is said "he got in at one
gap and out at another," till at length he reached his
purposed haven in tne depths of the -rUi. Before
03

II

189

BAKLV NORTII-WXST VOYAOS*.

howpyer, the crows were completely landed and «a.
tablished, the 9th of August had come, thick snows
were faUin«r, luid it b«-hooved them to hold a solemn
consultation as to the prospects of the projected
colony. There remained of the house only the ma-
t6riiil8 of the 8<Mith and east sides; the rest had either
ffone down in the Dennis, or had been shattered into
fragmenU while suspended from the sides of the
ships to meet the strokes of the ice. Great part of
the bread had been 8[M)iled, an«l the liquors had sus-
tained a woful leakage ; in short there v^as no ade.
quate provision for a hundred men during a whole
year. Captain Fenton of the Judith inde.?d suggested,
that what remained of the house might bo formed
into a hut for sixty men, with whom ho undertook to
brave the northern winter ; but the carpenters, being
conrtilted, declared that such a structure could not
lie erected in less than two months, while their
utmost possible stay would be twenty-six days.
tte,nouncing the, idea of settlement, Froblsher still
asked his captains whether they might not, during
the short remnining interval, attempt some discovery
to throw a redeeming lustre on this luckless voyage i
but, in reply, they urged the advanced season, the
symptoms of winter already approaching, and the
danger of being enclosed in these narrow Inlets,
where they would be in the most imminent danger
of perishing,— in short, that nothing was now to l»e
thought of but a speedy return homeward. This
was effected, not witliout the dispersion of the fleet,
and considerable damage to some of the vessels.
These voyages contain notices of the country and

Jiople^ which strikingly agree wjth those collected
y recent navigators. This Meta Incognita, which
jicludes only the countries bordering upon the en-
rances of Hudson's Bay, is considered as a cluster
of large islands lying thick together, and separated
6y narrow inlets,— an idea, perhaps, not so unfounded
aa was for some time supposed. These provinces

tely landfld and «••
come, thick snowi
m to hold a loletnn
8 of the projected
house only the ma-
; the rcHt had either
been shattered into
I the Rides of the
ice. Great part of
he liquors had siis^
I there v^aa no ade>
len duhni; awliole
:h inde.'d su^ircsted,
B might be formed
om ho undertook to
e carpenters, being
itru«-ture could not
onths, while their

twenty-six days,
pnt, Frobjshcr still
might not, during
npt some discovery
is luckless voyage }
k'anccd season, the
preaching, and the
ese narrow Inlets,
; imminent danger
ing was now to lie
homeward. This
lersion of the fleet,
I of the vessels,
of the country and
ith those collected
1 Incognita, which
ering upon the en-
idered as a cluster
her, and separated
8, not so unrounded

These provinces

XARtT NORTH-WEST TOTAOKS.

169

consist of mountains and high lands covered with
mow, even in the midst of summer; and it appeared
Tery surprising to And in latitude 60° and f 1° a cold
much more intense than at the North Cape and Ward-
hnys in latitude 72°. The people are dcsiribed as
of npe-ohve complexion, with long black hair, broad
aces, and flat noses, much resembling Tartars, or,
more strictly, Samoiede8,to whom, accortiing to tho
best mformation Frobisher could obtain, thev were
also similar in their habits of life. The land could
scarcely yield either grain or fruit, and the people
made no attempt to cultivate them, eating merely
shrube and grass, "even as our kine do;" or, as
Kettle expresses it, "such grass as the country pro-
duceth they pluck up and eat, not daintily or sallad-
wise, but like brute beasts devouring the same." In
other respeiits, he observes, they seek "by their
hunting, fishing, and fowling, to satisfy their greedy
paunches, which is their only glory." They use
neither scat, table, nor cloth; but "when they are
imbrued with blood, knuckle deep, they use their
wngues as apt instruments to lick them clean."
From the manner in which, to the great disirust of
the beholders, they devoured their meat in the most
loathsome and putrid state, without any cookery
or preparation, an inference is somewhat rashly
drawn, that they would not make the least hesita-
tion m partaking of human flesh. Frobisher could
observe only their summer-houses, which are de-
scribed ixs poor caves, like ovens, having holes like
a fox or coney burrow, formed of pieces of whalebone
meetmgr at top, and covered with seal-skin, and in
the mside of which, by strewing moss, they formed
nests to sleep on. At the same time they were found
to be sharp-witted, and showed, by signs, great readi-
?# *lf° *o understand and reply to the English.
If they could give no information on any subject,
they shut their eyes; if they did not comprehend
what was said to them, they stopped their ears. They

^sifes^s^aa^g^^g^s^gis^^^--''

164

KARLY NORTH-WEST VOTAOES.

took the greatest delight in music ; repeating an^
keeping time to any tune wth voice, head, hand, and
, °ir "^^^^ daita, arrows, and other weapons were
skilfully contrived, and used with a courage amount,
mg even to desperation, of which repeated instances
have been given. Their little boats of skin (kayak)

were moved by one oar, with a swiftness which no
English sailor coidd match. Their astonishment
at European objects appeared particularly when
one of them was shown his visage in a mirror.
" He was upon the sudden much amazed thereat,
and, beholding advisedly the same with silence a good
while, at length began to question with him as with
his companion ; and finding him dumb, seemed to
suspect him as one disdainful, and would have grown
into choler ; until at last, by feeling and handling, he
found the deceit, and then, with great noise and cries,
ceased not wondering, thinking that we could make
men live and die at our pleasure." There were
great signs of mutual attachment, especially between
the male and female captive, who were brought home
on the second voyage. She killed and dressed the
dogs for him, and tended him carefully when S'.ck,
Mfhile he picked out the sweetest and fattest moraels
and laid them before her ; yet they lived entirely as
brother and sister -without the slightest impropriety.
Our naval recoids do not inform us of the feelings
excited ia ilie nation by tlie return from this hard,

t'tiWHUHMWy'llillii.);)^

V0TAGE8. ^

nusic ; repeating an^
oice, head, hand, and
other weapons were
th a courajre amount.
;h repeated instances
oats of skin (kayak)

swiftness which no
Their astonishment
. particularly when
visage in a mirror,
ich amazed thereat,
e with silence a good
on with him as with
m dumb, seemed to
id would have grown
ling and handling, he
freat noise and cries,
that we could make
ure." There were
t, especially between
) were brought home
led and dressed the
arefuUy when s'.ck,
t and fattest moraels
ley lived entirely as
lightest impropriety,
m us of the feelings
^uru from this hard,

DARLT K0RTH-WE8T TOTAOES.

165

peiilous, and abortive voyage. The failure of sue-
cessive attempts, and especially of one got up with
so much cost and circumstance, probably produced
Its usual effect of lassitude and despondence. The
ghttenng stone, which ^as to have converted this
northern Meta mto another Peru, was never more
heard of; a few careful assays having doubtless
established its utter insignificance. Frobisher re-
commended strongly the trial of the first mistaken
inlet which he had entered, as being, m comparison
ot tiie other, broader, more patent, and every way
more promising; but the people could by no means
be roused to any farther efforts. He was obliged to
seek m other climates employment for his daring
and active spirit. He accompanied Sir Francis
JJrake to the West Indies ; he commanded one of
Uie largest ships m the armament which opposed the
Spanish armada, and fought with such bravery, that
he was decorated with the honours of knighthood.
Being afterward sent to assist Henry IV. against
the League, and employed in the attack of a small
fort on the coast of France, he received a wound
from a baU, which, through unskilful treatment,
proved fatal in November, 1594. '

Seven years after Frobisher's last voyage, the spirit
of the nation was agam roused. Divers opulent mer-
chants of London and of the west determined to " cast
in their adventure ;" and, leaving wholly out of view
the delusive hopes of gold which had misled Frobisher.
directed theirs entirely to the discovery of a passage
to India. They fitted out two vessels, the sSnsW^
and Moonshine, of 60 and 35 tons respectively, which
were placed under the command of John Davis a
steady and determined seaman, endowed also with a
large portion of courtesy and good-humour, by which
he was likely to render himself acceptable to the
rude natives of those inhospitable shores: to pro.
mote which laudable purpose, he was provided not
onJy with a supply of the trifling gifts suited to theii

166

EARLY NORTH-WSST'VOVAaBB.

taste, but with a band of music to cheer and recreate
their spirits. This being a western naviaration, Da-
vis, on the 7th June, 1585, set sail from Dartmouth.
On the 19th July, as the seamen approached the
Arctic boundary, they heard, amid a calm sea beset
with thick mist, a mighty roaring, as of the wave?
dasliing on a rocky shore. The soundings gave 300
fathoms; however, the captam and master pushed
off in the boat to examine this supposed beach, but
were much surprised to find themselves involved
amid numerous itMjbergs, while all this noise had
been caused by the rolling and beating of these masses
against each other. Davis landed on some of these
islands, and broke off pieces of ice, which, being
carried to the ship, were converted into good water.
Next day he came in view of the soutli-westem
coast of Greenland, which appeared the most dreary
and desolate ever seen ; " deformed, rocky, and
mountainous, like a sugar-loaf, standing to our sight
above the clouds. It towered above the fog like a
white list in the sky, the tops altogether covered
Avith snow, the shore beset with ice, making such
irksome noise that it was called the Land of Desola-
tion" The water on this coast was black and thick,
like a stf nding pool, and though they saw many
seals floating, and birds beating upon the wat«r,
none could be caught.

After sailing for several days along this dreary
shore, without being able to approach on account of
the ice, Davis pushed out north-westward into the
open sea, hoping in " God's mercy to find our de-
sired passage." On the 29ih he came in view of a
land in 64° north latitude, which was still only Green-
land ; but as the wind was unfavourable for proceed-
ing westward, the air temperate, and the coast free
from ice, he resolved to go on shore and take a view
of the country and people. In the company of two
others, he landed on an island, leaving directions {jt
the rest to follow as soon as they should hear any

TOYA«3E8.

to cheer and recreate
item navigation, Da-
sail from Dartmouth.
tien approached the
nid a calm sea beset
ing, as of the waves
I soundings gave 300
and master pushed
supposed beach, but
hemselves involved
! all this noise had
ating of these masses
ed on some of these
jf ice, which, being
ted into good water,
f the soutli-western
ired the most dreary
formed, rocky, and
standing to our sight
above the fog like a
altogether covered
;h ice, making such
the Land ofDeaola-
was black and thick,
gh they saw many
jg upon the wat«r,

s along this dreary
roach on account of
h-westward into tlie
ercy to find our de-
e came in view of a
ivas still only Green-
ourable for proceed-
3, and the coast free
lore and lake a view
the company of two
saving directions f::»r
ey should hear any

SARtT NORTH-WEST VOTAOES.

167

loud signal. The party mounted the top-of a lock,
whence they were espied by the natives, wlio raised
a lamentable noise, with loud outcries like the howl-
ing of wolves. Davis and his comrades hereupon
struck up a high note, so modulated, that it mifht at
once be allurmg to the natives, and might summon
nis own crew to deeds either of courtesy or valour.
Burton, the master, and others, hastened, well armed,
yet with the band of music playing, and dancing to
It with the most invithig signs of friendship. In ac-
cordance with this gay summons, ten canoes hastened
from the other islands, and the people crowded round
the strangers, iittering in a hollow voice miintelligi-
We sounds. The English continued their friendly
salutations, while the other party still showed jea-
lousy, till at length one of them began pointing to-
wards the sun and beating his breast. These signs
being returned by John Ellis, master of the Moon-
shine, the natives were induced to approacli; and
being presented with caps, stockings, gloves, and
whatever the navigators had, and continuing to be
hailed with music and dancing, their fears g;ive place
to the most cordial amity. Next day there appeared
thirty-seven canoes; the people froni which kindly in-
vited the English on shore, showing eager impatience
at their delay. Davis manned his boats and went to
them; one of them shook hands with him, and kissed his
hand, and the two parties became extremely familiar.
The natives parted with every thing, the clothes froni
off their backs, consisting of seal-skins and birds'
skms with the feathers on them, their buskins of
well-dressed leather, their darts, oar^, and five canoes,
accepting cheerfully in return whatever their nev
visiters chose to present; and they kindly aided eacU
ether under the privations thus occasioned. Tht^
offered to return next day with an ample store of
furs and skins, wliich they saw the foreig^itrs value
so highly; but a favourable breeze sprin|,nng ur.,
Davis very properly determined to alloAv uolliiiii; tu

168

EARtV NORTH-WEST TOTAOCS.

Interfere whh his schemes of discovery. He steered
directly across the strait, or rather sea, which still
bears his own name. On the 6th Au^st he disco,
vered liign land, which he named Mount Raleiffh,
beiiif? part of Cumberland Island. Here, anchoring
in a fine road, the seamen saw three white animals,
which seemed to be goats. Desirous of fresh vic-
tuals and sport, they pursued them, but discovered
mstead three monstrous white bears. The animals
rushed on, fearless and furious, till being received
with several baUs, they retreated, apparently not
much hurt, but were followed and at last killed.
There appeared no symptoms of their having fed on
any thing except grass; but it was necessary to clear
away a very large quantity of fat before the flesh
could be eaten.

Davis, after coasting about for some days, agaiir
found himself at the cape which he had at first
reached on his crossing from the opposite shore of
Greenland. This promontory, which he called God's
Mercy, he now turned, when he found himself in a
sound stretching north-westward, twenty or thirty
leagues broad, free from ice, and its waters having'
the colour and quality of the main ocean. After
Mcendmg jt sixty leagues, he found an island in
the mid-channel, which still, however, afforded
an open passage, so that his hopes daily increased.
About the end of August, however, being involved
in fogs and contrary winds, he determined to sus-
pend operations for this season and return to Ens-
laud. *

Onono of the islands in this sound the seamen
,r ,-, ^ "owlmg, and saw twenty approach, of

wolf-hke appearance, but in most peaceful guise.

Impressed, however, with the idea that only animals

?^,^7, ^j""^*^ ^^ '"""'* o" *^ese shores, they fiied
and killed two, rottnd one of whose necks they found
a collar, and soon after discovered the sledge to which
he hau been yoked. Davis saw on tliis voyage abun-

"^[^

>M^-^

rOTAOES.

covery. He steered
ther sea, which still
ith August he disco-
led Mount Raleigh,
d. Here, anchoring
hree white anim&ls,
sirous of fresh vic-
fiem, but discovered
ears. The animals
, till being received
ted, apparently not
and at last killed.
■ their having fed on
iH necessary to clear
fat before the flesh

•r some days, agaiir
lich he had at first
lie opposite shore of
hich he called God's

found himself in a
•d, twenty or thirty
d its waters having
main ocean. After
found an island in

however, afforded
pes daily increased.
!ver, being involved

determined to sus-
and return to Eng-

sound the seamen
(venty approach, of
ost peaceful guise.
5a that only animals
e shores, they fiied
ise necks they found
1 the sledge to which
)u tills voyage abun-

EA-ILY N0RTH-V'£8T TOTAOES.

109

dance of the jlack and glittering stone of Frobish-'r,
and many of the rocks appeared " orient like gold;"
but httle attention was now excited by these delusive
appearances.

Although no ling was actually done by tliis expe-
dition, yet the Itimate views which it had opened
to Uavis inspii i sanguine hopes, and facilitated the
equipment of a -esh expedition. To the slender ar-
mament of thi Sunshine and Moonshine was now
added the Mem id of 120 tons, with a boat or pin-
nace. Davis sa ed from Dartmouth on the 7th May,
and on the 15th une came in view of the southern
extrem'y of Greenland; but, owing to severe
storms, it was the 29th before he reached the land
formerly visited in lat. 640. As the English ap-
Prpached, the natives came out in their canoes at fiist
with shouts and cries ; but, recognising their com-
panions of the former year, they hastened forward,
and hung round the vessel with every expression of
jov and welcome. Davis, seeing them in such fa-
vourable dispositions, went ashore and distributed in
presents twenty knives, refusing the oflbr of skins in
return. The most intimate acquaintance was now
oegufi ; yet they never met the strangers anew with-
out cmng, "iZ?ao«<.'" beating their breasts and lifting
their hands to the sun, by which a fresh treaty was
ratified. The 'wo parties amused themselves by
contests m bodily exercises. The Esquimaux could
not match their opponents in leaping ; but in wres-
tling they showed themselves strong and skilful, and
threw some of the best Englisli wrestlers. By de-
^es they began to manifest less laudable qualities.
rhey exercised many and solemn incantations,
though, Davis thanks God, without any effect. They
kindled a fire by rubbing two sticks against each
other, and invited him 10 pass thrcugh it ; but he,
in contempt of their sorcery, caused the fire to be
trodden out, and the embers thrown into the sea.
The natives showed soon a much more inconvenient
P

170

SARLT NORTR-WEBT VOTAOXB.

propensity to appropriate eveiy article, especially
iron, which came under their notice. Perhaps it was
imprudent ever to have made presents, thus suff-
gesting the idea, which does not seem to have be-
fore entered their minds, that any thing could be
obtained without an equivalent. However, they
soon reached the highest pitch of audacity; they
Rtole a spear, a gun, a sword, cut the cables, and
even the Moonshine's boat from her stem. The
leading personages of the crew remonstrated with
Davis, that for their security he must " dissolve this
new friendship, and leave the company of those
thievish miscreants." Davis fired two pieces over
their heads, v hich " did sore amaze them," and they
fled precipitatt'ly. But in ten hours they again ap-
peared with many promises and presents of skins ;
when, on seeing iron, " they could in nowise forbear
stealing." The commander was again besieged with
the complaints of his crew ; ho\vcver, " it only mi-
nistered to him an occasion of laughter," and he bid
his men look vijrilantly to the safety of their own
goods, and Dot deal hardly with the natives, who
could sinrcely be expected in so short a time " to
know their evils."

Davis now undertook an expedition to observe
somewhat of the interior. He sailed up what ap-
peared a broad river, but which proved only a strait
or creek. A violent gust of wind having obUged him
to seek the shelter of land, he attempted to ascend
a very lofty peak; but "the mountains were so
many and so mighty, that his purpose prevailed not."
While the men were g.nhering muscles for supper,
he was amused by viewing for the first time in his
life, a water-spout, which he describes as a mighty
whirlwind taking up the water and whirling it round
for three hours without intermission. Nexl day lie
re-embarked, and penetrated higher up the channel
but was surprised to find, instead of the huge uii
biokcn contuient which he had supposed, onlv wasti

rOTAOSB.

T article, especially
:e. Perhaps it was
)re8ent8, thus suff-
; seem to have be-
iny thing could be
;. However, they
of audacity; they
ut the cables, and
n her stem. The
remonstrated with
nust " dissolve this
company of those
id two pieces over
ize them," and they
urs they again ap-
presents of skins;
d in nowise forbear
again besieged with
^•cver, " it only mi-
ughter," and he bid
ifety of their own
I the natives, who
I short a time " to

edition to observe
lailed up what ap-
roved only a strait
having obliged him
tempted to ascend
lountains were so
)ose prevailed not."
luscles for supper,
3 first time in his
ribes as a mighty
id whirling it round
on. Next day lie
er up the channel
i of the huge uii
pposed, onlv wast.i

BABLT K0RTH-WE8T T0TA0E9.

171

and desert isles, with mighty sounds and inlets
passing between sea and sea.

Diu-ing the captain's absence matters had become
worse with the Esquimaux. The mariners on his re-
turn opened a fearful budget ; the natives had stolen
an anchor, cut the cable, and even thrown stones
of half a pound weight against the Moonshine; and
he was asked .f he would still endure these injuries.
Davis, who probably suspected that the sailors'
own dealings had not been very gentle, bid them
lave patience, and all should be well. He invited an
Esqmmaux party on board, made them various little
presents, taught them to run to the topmast, and
dismissed them apparently quite pleasedk Yet no
sooner had the sun set than they began to " practise
their devilish nature," and threw stones into the
Moonshine, one of which knocked down the boat-
swain. The captain's meek spirit was at length kin-
dled to wrath, and he gave full warrant for two boats
to chase the culprits ; but they rowed so swiftly that
the pursuers returned with small content." Two
days after, five natives presented themselves with
overtures for a fresh truce ; but the master came to
Davis, remonstrating that oi of them was " the chief
ringleader, a master of misc. i ;f," and was vehement
not to let him go. He was \\ ide captive, and, a fair
wind suddenly springing up, tue English set sail, and
carried him away, many doleful signs being then ex-
changed between him and one of his countr3rmen ;
however, on being well treated, and presented with
a new suit of frieze, his spirits revived, he became a
pleasant companion, and used occasionally to assist
the sailors.

Davis, finding the wind favourable, pushed across
the bay, in hopes of attaining the object of his voyage.
On the 17th July the mariners descried a land diver-
sified with hills, bays, and capes, and extending far-
ther than the eye could reach ; but what was their
horror on approaching, to find that it was only " a

172

KARLT NORTH-WIST TOTAOEa.

most mighty and Btrange quantity of ice !" It was,
in fact, that great barrier, which often, for a great
part of the season, Alls the middle of Baffin's Bay.
As they coasted along this mighty field, a fog came
on, by which the ropes, shrouds, and sails were all
fast frozen,— a phenomena which, on the a4th July,
appeared more than strange. Dismayed by these ob-
servations, the seamen considered the passage hope-
less, and, in a respectful yet firm tone, warned Davis,
that by "his over-boldness he might cause their
widows and fatherless, children to give him bitter
curses." Davis was willing to consider their case ;
yet, anxious not to abandon so great an enterprise,
he determined to leave behind him the Mermaid, as
a vessel less convenient and nimble, and to push on
in the Moonshine with the boldest part of his crew.
Having found a favourable breeze, he at last, on the
Ist August, turned the ice, and in lat. 66° 33' reached
land; ajong which he now coasted southward for
about ten degrees, entpjigled among a number of
islands, and missing, in his progress, the different
inlets which afforded an entrance into Hudson's Bay.
The shores were crowded with incredible flocks of
gulls and seamews, and the water so abounded in fish,
that, though their tackle was very indifferent, in the
running of an. hour-glass the crew caught a hundred
cod. On reaching Labrador, the coast was seen
covered with ample forests of fir, pine, yew, and
birch; but five men who landed were beset by tho
natives, and two of them killed and two wounded.
Davis, being also exposed to a violent tempest, and
seeing September arrive, judged it wisest to return to
England.

The public were considerably damped by the issue
of this expedition, so that Davis found no small dif.
ficulty in obtaining the means for equipping another.
He was obliged to hold out the inducement, that, by
proper arrangements, the outlay might be defrayed
by fishing and no additional expense incurred on

rOTAOKS.

ty of ice !" It was,
I often, for a great
lie of Baffin's Bay.
ty field, a fog came

and sails were all
I, on the a4th July,
smayed by these ob-
d the passage hope-
tone, wanied Davis,

might cause their
to give him bitter
Dnsider their case;
reat an enterprise,
n the Mennaid, as
ble, and to push on
t part of his crew.
!, he at last, on the
lat. 66° 33' reached
ted southward for
long a number of
Tess, the different
nto Hudson's Bay.
icredible flocks of
10 abounded in fish,

indifferent, in the
' caught a hundred
e coast was seen
r, pine, j^ew, and
i^ere beset by tho
id two wounded,
lent tempest, and
wisest to return to

imped by the issue
iiind no small dif-
quipping another,
ucement, that, by
light be defrayed
inse incurred on

EARLY NORTH-WEST VOYAGES.

173

account of discovery. By these arguments, and by
the exertions of his zealous friend, Mr, Sanderson, he
succeeded in fitting out the Sunshine, the Elizabeth,
and a pinnace. This last, to which he mainly trusted
for discovery, answered very ill tho character which
had been given of it, and was found to move through
the water like a cart drawn by oxen. On the 16th
June (1587), the adventurers arrived at their old
coast, and were received by the natives as before with
the cry ofiliaout and the exhibition of skins. These
savages, however, lost no time in the renewal of their
former system of thieving ; for xvhich great opportu-
nities were afforded during the putting together of a
boat with materials brought from England. They
carried off the planks, and when fired at placed them
before their bodies as shields, thus securing both their
planks and persons. It was now arranged that the
two large vessels should remain to fish, while Davia
in the pinnace should stretch out into a higher la-
titude with a view to discovery. In pursuance
of this plan he took his departure, and, continuing
to range the coast to the northward, on the 28th he
reached a point which he named Sanderson's Hope,
in upwards of 72 degrees, still finding a wide open
sea to the west and north. Here, the wind having
shifted, Davis resolved to hold on a western tack
across this sea, and proceeded for forty leagues with-
out sight of land or any other obstruction, when he
was arrested by the usual barriejr of an immense
bank of ice. He first endeavoiu-ed to round it by
the north, but, seeing no passage on that side, turned
to the south, beating about for several days without
success. Tempted by an ajiparent opening, he in-
volved himself iii a bay of ice, from which he was
not extricated without much difficulty and some
danger. He was obliged to wait the moment when
the sea beating and the sun shining on this mighty
mass should effect its dissolution. At length, on the
10th July, he came in view of Mount U^eigh, and
P3

174

■ARZ.T K I'rrf-WKgT VOTAOES.

11 I
■ (

m> M

«t midiught fonnc'! 'i;;,'.a^jlf ;it tho mouth of the in-
let discovered in the first voyage, and which has
HJncebeen called Omii'nrland Strait. Next day be
■ailed acroHg its entruiui and in the two following
days ascended its nortliern shore, till he w.is again
involved among numerous islands. He seems now
to have concluded is strait to be an enclosed guU,
and shaped his cou, to reach the sea; but being
becalmed in tlie bottom of the bay, he could not till
the 29th, by eoastin? along the southern shore, effect
his retreat. FrobisI Kjr's Strait was now passed, seem-
ingly without being recognised as such, but was
called Lumley's Inlet. He next crossed the mouth
of an extensive gulf, in one part of which his vessel
was carried along by a violent current, while in an-
other the water was whirling and roaring as is usual at
the meeting of tides. Tliis recess, being terminated
by Cape Chidley, was evidently the grand entrance
afterward penetrated by Hudson. Davis, however,
who had only half a hogshead of water left, hastened
to the point of rendezvous fixed with the two other
vessels; but, to his deep disappointment and just
indignation, he found that they had departed. It
was not without hesitation tfmt, with the slender
store remaining in his little bark, he ventured to
sail for England ; but having scarcely any alterna-
tive, he undertook the voyage, and happily accom-
plished it.

Davis wrote still to Mr. Sanderson in sanguine
and almost exulting terms. He had reached a much
higher lai uide than any fonner navigator, and, with
the exception of the barrier of ice on one side, had
found the sea open, blue, of vast extent, and un-
fathomable depth. He considered, therefore, that
the success oi a spirited attempt was almost infal-
lible. But tiip interest taken by the nation in such
enterprises seems only capable of being sustained foi
a certain period. Three failures had exhausted that
interest, and made men indisposed to listen or in-

(

VOTAOEa.

ho mouth of thn in«
age, and which has
trait. Next day be
n the two following
■e, till he w.is again
ds. He seems now
be an enclosed nfiilf,
I the sea; but beini?
jay, he could not till
outhcrn shore, effect
M now passed, seem-
d as such, but was
t crossed the mouth
of which his vessel
f-Tirrent, while in an-
roaring as is usual at
iss, being terminated
' the grand entrance
n. Davis, however,
' water left, hastened
I with the two other
pointment and Just
f had departed. It
t, with the slender
irk, he ventured to
arcely any altema-
md happily accom-

dersoD in sanguine
had reached a much
navigator, and, with
;e on one side, had
ast extent, and un-
red, therefore, that
t was almost infal-

the nation in such
f being sustained foi

had exhausted that
sed to listen or in«

lARLV N0RTH-WK8T VOYAOIS.

178

quire farther into the suhjert. It became the cry,B8
he inform-s us,—" ThiH Davis hath been three tjmoH
employed ; why hath he not found the passage 1"
The death of Secretary Walsingham occurring at
this period was a ar trero blow to the cause, while
the invasion by the dpanish Armada soon followed,
and engrossed for a space all the thoughts and ener-
gies of the nation. Mr. Sanderson still continued
the steady friend of Davis; but, unaWo ' !)tain
resources for a new armament, he could o„ . tiuploy
Molyneux, the best artist of his lime, 'o onstnict
a globe whicli comprised all that naviK , '^'mco-
yeries, and is atill preserved in the lib the

Middle Temple.

In 1602 the spbit of the nation revivt.,. io the
Muscovy Company, which liad taken the great li' hI
in all the early schemes of discovery, was now added
the Levant Company; and these two great bodies,
finding the course to India by the Cape still beset
With many dangers, determined upon a joint effort
to penetrate thither by the north-west. They sent
out Captain George Weymouth with two ve isels, the
Discovery and Godspeed, which they called fly.
boats, though they were respectively of 70 and 60
tons. He left London on the 2d May, and on the
I8th June came in view of the coast of Greenland,
which appeared to him " a main bank of ice." The
water was in many places as thick as puddle, mak-
ing him imagine himself among shallows, tiU the
sounding-line gave 180 fathoms without any ground.
This, formerly observed by Davis, was probably the
green cloudy sea of Scoresby, thickened by the in-
fusion of numberless animalcides.

Weymouth, having made sail westward with a
favourable breeze, came, on the 28th, in sight of the
coast of America. There appeared a promontory
covered with snow, which he concluded to be War-
wick's Foreland; but the vessels were tossed to and
fro by violent currents, or overfalls, as he calls them,

7f

XARLV NOnrn-WEgT V0VA0E8.

•nd involved in fogs ho thick, that they wf to onro

fuite closfl to ii hunk of ice before it was pereeived.
lowcvor, being in want of water, the party landed,
loaded then' boat with ice, and found it to make very
palatable drink. The crows hcaid a yroat sound like
the dashniRof waves on the shove; on making np
to which tliey wtro dismayed to find it " the noise
of a gtt^t quantity of ice, which was very ioath-
some to be heard." The niist becan.i so thick, that
they could not see two ships' length, and determined
to take down the sails ; but were petrified to find
thenj so fast frozen to the riffling, that in "this
chiefest time of summer they coidd not bo moved."
Next day they renewed the attempt; but it was
only by cutting away the ice from the ropes that
Uiey could be made to move through the blocks.
The following day the fog lay so thick, and froze
so fast, that ropes, sails, and rigging remained im-
moveable.

These phenomena produced a disastrous effect on
the mmds of the sailors, who began to hold secret
conferences, ending in a conspiracy " to bear up the
helm for England." It was proposed to seize Wey-
mouth, and confine him in his cabin till he gave his
consent; but the captain, receiving notice of this ne-
farious design, called the seamen before him, and in
presence of Mr. Cartwright the preacher, and Mr.
oobreth the master, called upon them to answer for
thus attempting to overthrow a voyage fitted out at
such ample cost by the honourable merchants. The
men stood firm, producing a paper signed by their
own hands, m which they justified the proposed step
as founded on solid reason, without any tincture
ot fear oe cowardice. They represented, that if they
should suffer themselves to be enclosed in an un-
Juiown sea, by this dreadful and premature winter,
they would not oiUybe in imminent danger of perish-
ing, hut could not hope to commence their career of
ttiscovery next year sooner than May; while by

VOVAOES. '

that tliey wf>ro onro
i>ro it was perceived,
er, the party landeti,
ound it to make very
udaffroiU sound like
ore ; on making up
to find it "the noiHc
t'h was very loath-
ecani( so thick, that
igth, and determined
ere pf trifiid to find
ffffing, that in " this
idd not bo moved."
ittempt; but it was
rom the ropes that
hrougrh the blocks,
so thick, and froze
fging remained im-

disastrous effect on
igdn to hold secret
icy " to bear up the
losed to seize Wey-
ihin till he jave his
ng notice of this ne-
1 before him, and in

preacher, and Mr.
thorn to answer for
'oyage fitted out at
le merchants. The
icr signed by their
d the proposed step
thout any tincture
Bsented, that if they
;nclo8cd in an un-

premature winter,
nt danger of perish-
mce their career of
m May; while by

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.V

EARLY NORTH-WEST VOTAOEfl.

177

Betting sail in due time fronn England they might easily
reach this coast in that month. Weymouth retired
to his cabin to deliberate, when he heard it an-
nounced that the helm was actually borne up. Hast-
ening on deck, and asking who had done this, he
was ans\yered, "One and all!" and he found the
combination such as it was impossible to resist,
though he took occasion afteiAvard to chastise the
ringleaders. The men, however, declared them-
selves ready to hazard their lives in any discovery
which might be attempted to the southward.

Accordingly, on descending to 61° N. lat., Wey-
mouth found himself at the entrance of an inlet, into
which he sailed in a south-west direction, a hundred
leagues by reckoning; but encountering fogs and
heavy gales, and finding the season far spent, he
deemed it necessary to regain the open sea. This
inlet, however, was thought to present more favour-
able hopes of a passage than any other that had yet
been discovered. It appears in fact to have been the
grand entrance of Hudson's Bay ; so that Fox justly
ascribes some merit to Weymouth in directing that
great navigator into this spacious expanse. As his
course, however, of v/est by south, must have led
him off the main channel of this large strait, and
throvm him on the western shore of what is now
called Ungava Bay, his estimated reckoning of a
hundred leagues is evidently overrated. In 55° he
found a fair land, consisting of islands and " goodly
somids," apparently the place where the Moravian
settlement of Nain was afterward formed. Soon
after, a dreadful hurricane from the west seemed to
take up the sea into the air, and drove the ships be-
fore it with the utmost impetuosity. Had it been
from any other quarter they must have been dashed
to pieces on rocks; however they ranged through the
open sea, and in the greatest extremity " the Lord
delivered us his unworthy servants." He had now
an easy navigation to England.

■:msm

178

EARLT NORTH-AVEST VOYAGES.

£.'

No farther proceedings occurred till 1606, when
the Muscovy and East India merchants fitted out a
vessel of forty tons under John Knight, who had
Deen employed in the Danish voyages to Greenland,
and was considered a stout and enterpiiaing sailor.
He sailed from Gravesend on the 18th April, but was
detained a fortnight in the Pentland Frith ; however,
" two lustie fellows, well acquainted w ith these north
parts of Scotland," took him into a good harbour
called St. Margaret's Hope, where he remained till
the 12th May. He directed his course almost due
west, towargis America, and had reached the latitude
of 58°, when winds and currents bore him to the
southward. On the 19th of June he was in 56° 48',
when he saw the continent rising like eight islands.
The vessel, however, had been so distressed with
tempest and heavy fogs, and so bruised between
mighty islands of ice, that it was necessaiy to put it
into a little cove to refit. Here the \vind blew with
such violence, bringing great islands of ice against
the vessel, that the rudder was torn from the stem ;
and hence it became necessary to haul it on shore at
the bottom of the cove, that it might undergo a tho-
rough repair.

On the 26th, Knight, with some of his men well
armedfwent across in the boat to the opposite coast,
in search of a better harbour, and to take a survey
of the country. With this view, the captain, his
mate, and another went over a hill, leaving three
men in charge of the boat. These last waited the
whole day in anxious expectation of the return of
the party; they then sounded trumpets, fired muskets,
and made every imaginable signal, but without effect.
After waiting till eleven at night, they gave up hopes,
and returned to the ship with these black and doleful
tidings. The crew were struck with the deepest
dismay at having thus lost their captain and best
officers, and being themselves left in such deplorable
circumstances. The boat was fitted out nextmom-

,..„t^.ik,...t-iff .^M II,' .■■'i,r--^i-:<-ja..p|j.ftg|^^^^^^^

VOYAGES.

rred till 1606, yrhen
rchants fitted out a
ti Kiiight, who had
yages to Greenland,

enterpiising sailor,
e 18th April, but was
and Frith; however,
ited H ith these north
ito a good harbour
ire he remained till
I course almost due
reached the latitude
Its bore him to the
e he was in 56° 48',
g like eight islands.

so distressed with
so bruised between
3 necessary to put it
the \vind blew with
ands of ice against
om from the stem ;
0 haul it on shore at
light undergo a tho-

ne of his men well
) the opposite coast,
d to take a survey
iw, the captain, his
. hill, leaving three
ese last waited the
)n of the return of
npets, fired muskets,
il, but without effect.
, they gave up hopes,
'.ae black and doleful
k with the deepest
ir captain and best
ft in such deplorable
itted out nextmom>

EAKLT NORTH-WEST VOYAGES.

179

ing for search, but could not cross the channel on
account of the ice. After two distressful days, on
the night of Saturday, the 28th of June, as the boat-
swain was keeping watch in advance of the tents, he
suddenly saw rushing through the darkness a great
body of men, who, on descrying him, let fly their ar-
rows. He instantly fired, and gave the alarm ; but,
before the crow could start from bed and be mus-
tered, the shallop was filled with fifty savages, who,
with loud cries and menacing gestures, showed them-
selves prepared for immediate attack. The English
mustered only eight men and a large dog, and though
the rain fell m torrents, they determined rather to
perish bravely, assailing this savage enemy, than to
wait their onset. They advanced, therefore, placing
the dog foremost. This bold front appalled the sa-
vages, who leaped into their boats, and made off with
all speed ; but they were entangled in the ice, and
detained a considerable time, during which the pur-
suers continued firing, and the savages were heard
"crying to each other very sore." They are repre-
sented, so far as could be judged, as very small peo-
ple, tawny-coloured, with thin or no beards, flat-
nosed, and man-eaters ; but this last particular was
doubtless hypothetical.

The mariners, placed in this alarming situation,
made all the haste they could to fit their shattered
bark for again taking the sea. They had first to cut
a way for her through the ice ; but they had nothing
which could be called a rudder, and the leaks were
80 large, that the sailors could scarcely enjoy half
an hour's relief from the pump. At length they
found means to stop up tolerably the principle fissure,
and, after hard rowing and pumping for three weeks,
succeeded in reaching the coast of Newfoundland.
Among the fishing vessels on that station, they found
most kind and loving friends, who supplied all their
wants ; and after twenty days spent in repairing their
sliip, and refreshing their bodies, the crew enjoyed a

180

BARLY NORTH-WEST TOTAOEa

^

i

good passage to Dartmouth, whence they transmitted
to London an account of the doleful issue of their
voyage.

It was Hudson that now stood foremost in the
"*^®if .P northern discovery, and earned a fame
which has placed him among the greatest of British
navigators. We have traced his career in former
chapters— first in the daring attempt to cross the
Pole Itself; then in his second voyage for the north-
cast passage; and also in his third excursion, which
ended in the discovery of the river now associated
with his name. But the most eventful of his voy
ages, and that marked by the grandest result, was
the one which closed his labours, undertaken with a
view to a western passage. The narrative of the
commander himself is only a meager journal, brought
down to a particular point of the voyage ; but a full
relation is given by a certain personage, naming
himself Abacuk Pricket, against whose testimony,
however, for reasons that will appear in due time,
there rest some heavy objections. This expedition
was fitted out by Sir John Wolstenholme, Sir Dudley
Digges, and other persons of distinction, who did
not, however, project it on a very magnificent scale.
It consisted only of one vessel of 55 tons, provisioned
for SIX months, which left the Thames on the 17th
April, 1610. Hudson touched at the north of Scot-
land, the Orkney and the Faroe Islands, Jl which
he judged to lie not in so high a latitude as tht maps
represented. On the 11th May he descried the east*
ern part of Iceland, and was enveloped in a thick
south fog; hearing the sea daahing against the coast
without seeing it. He was thus obliged to come to
anchor; but, as soon as the weather cleared, he pro
ceeded westward along the coast till he reached
Snow Hill (Snaefell), which rears its awful head
above the sea that leads to the frozen shores of
Greenland. On their way the navigators saw H*cla,
the volcano of which was then in activity, vomiting

^^^^i.^>,.,.^.^.,^:^Af^^^^ffl^

roTAOEa.

nee they transmitted
)leful iflsue of their

>od foremost in tlie
and earned a fame
3 greatest of British
is career in former
tempt to cross the
oyage for the north-
rd excursion, which
iver now associated
iventful of his voy
grandest result, was
^ undertaken with a
he narrative of the
ger journal, brought
! voyage ; but a full
personage, naming

whose testimony,
ippear in due time,
3. This expedition
nholme. Sir Dudley
istinction, who did
' magnificent scale.
S5 tons, provisioned
Thames on the 17th
the north of Scot-
I Islands, Jl which
ititude as th<:> maps
e descried the east-
veloped in a thick
g against the coast
obliged to come to
ler cleared, he pro
St till he reached
irs its awful head

frozen shores of
igators saw HAcla,

activity, vomiting

i^lit

TJiliriSi,

SARLT NORTH-WEST V0TA0E8,

181

torrents of fire down its snowy sides, with smoke
ascending to the sky; an object not only fear; il in
itself, but which struck them with alarm, as an mdi-
cation of unfavourable weather.

Leaving the Icelandic coast they now sailed west-
ward, and, after being deceived by illusory appear-
ances of land, at length saw the white cliffs of
Greenland towering behind a mighty wall of ice.
Without attempting to approach the coast, Hudson
sailed towards the south-west, and passed what he
imagined to be Frobisher's Straits, which in fact long
continued to be laid down on the coast of Green-
land, though with manifest error, since they evidently
belong to that of America. Hudson now turned
Cape Farewell, and " raised the Desolations," making
careful observation of those coasts, which he found
not well laid down in the charts. The mariners
soon began to descry, floating along, the mighty
islands of ice,— a sight which appalled all but the
stoutest hearts. Onward they sailed, however, some-
times enjoying a clear and open sea, but often en-
compassed by these mighty masses, or by the small
and drifting heaps; and at length they had to steer

•• -it,

r

182

EARLY NORTH-WEST TOVAOE*

as it were between twa hinds of ice. They some-
times moored themselves, on orcasions of peril, to
tho-se icebergs ; but seeing one of thorn dispart, and
fall with a tremendous crash into the sea, they no
lonper trusted to such a protection. On the 25th
.lune land appeared to the north, was again lost sight
of, and afterward discovered to the south ; so that
they found themselves at the broad entrance of th j
channel which has since obtained the name of Hud-
son's Strait. They were now still more pestered
with ice in various forms, particularly that of largo
islands standing deep in the water, which were more
difficult to avoid from the violent ripples and currents.
Thus they were often obliged, especially amid thick
fogs, to fasten themselves to the largest and firmest
of these masses, upon which they used to go out
from time to time, collecting the water melted in the
hollows, which proved to be sweet and good. Amid
these vicissitudes many of the sailors fell sick ; and
though Pricket does not choose to assert that their
sole malady was fear, yet in many he saw small
symptoms of any other. The crews of that period,
indeed, display few symptoms of the patience and
hardihood with which those of Willoughby and
Frobisher had first braved the northern tempests.
Hudson, seeing his men in this depressed temper,
bethought himself of an expedient by which he
hoped to animate them. He called them together,
showed them his card (chart), from which it appeared
that they had penetrated farther into the straits by a
hundred leagues than any former expedition, and put
It to themselves whether they would proceed, yea
or nay. This was a bold experiment, but did not
succeed. Some, it is true, expressed themselves
" honestly respecting the good of the action ;" but
others declared they would give nine-tenths of all
they were worth, so that they were safe at home:
others said they did not care where they went, so
they were oui of the ice. Hudson, vexed and dia-

jaus,

TOYAOBIi

tf ice. They some-
ccasions of peril, to
[)f them dispart, and
nto the sea, they no
Jtion. On the 25th
was again lost siRht
I the south ; so that
oad entrance of thj
d the name of Hud-
still more pestered
jularly that of larpfo
sr, which were more
ripples and currents,
specially amid thick
! largest and firmest
ley used to go out
water melted in the
et and good. Amid
ailors fell sick ; and
to assert that their
nany he saw small
rews of that period,
)f the patience and
f Willoughby and
northern tempests.
1 depressed temper,
lient by which he
died them together,
n which it appeared
nto the straits by a
expedition, and put
vould proceed, yea
iment, but did not
)ressed themselves
)f the action ;" but
I nine-tenths of all
ere safe at home:
liere they went, so
9011, vexed and di^i-

EAllty NOnTH-WEST VOYAOEB.

188

^ili^.^^ . ., A-». f-|.-^«,-| |. Ill , _

Appointed, broke up the conference, and followed his
own determination. This, we think, is evidently
the real state of the case, though Pricket represents
the captain liimself as in a state of alarm and doubt.
He accuses him also of having remembered too
long some of the speeches made on this occasion, to
the disadvantage of those by whom they had been
uttered. " .

Notwithstanding this failure, Hudson, buoyed up
by his own courage and hardihood, seeing land alter-
nately on one side and the other, having sometimes
a wide and clear sea, and being sometimes involved
amid mountains of ice, made his way onward. Cer-
tain rocky islands in wluch, when severely pressed
by the wind and floe, he found a tolerable harbour,
were called " Isles of God's Mercy ;" but even this
harbour was rendered dangerous by hidden reefs;
and the island adjoining to it contained, according
to Pricket, only " plashes of water and riven rocks,"
and had the appearance of being subject to earth,
quake. At length, they arrived at a broad opening,
Having on each side capes, to which Hudson gave
the names of the two chief patrons of the voyage;
to the one on the continent, that of Wolstenholme ;
to the other on the large island of Mansfield, that of
Sir Dudley Diggcs. Landing at the island cape, and
mounting a hill, the men descried some level spots
abounding in sorrel and scurvy-grass, plants most
salutary in this climate; while herds of deer were
feeding, and the rocks were covered with an unex-
ampled profusion of fowls. Seeing such ample ma-
terials, both for sport and food, the crew, who had
ever shown the most anxious concern for their own
comfort, earnest'.' besought Hudson to allow them
to remain and ; )v themselves for a few days on
this agreeable spov. But that great navigator, seeing
the season for his chief enterprise rapidly passing
away, repelled such an overture. He had not long
proceeded through tliis channel when the coasts on

184

KARLT NORTH'WEST VOTAOES.

r

each side were seen to separate, and he beheld before
Inm an ocean-expanse, to which the eye could dis-
cover no termination. It seemed to him, doubtless,
a portion of the mighty Pacific. Here, however,
Hudson 8 narrative closes, without expressing those
feehngs of pride and exultation which must have
filled his mind at this promised fulfilment of his
highest hopes. The relation of Pricket, on which
we must now depend, shows too clearly that many
of his crew would have had no sympathy with such
elevated feelings.

The expanse thus discovered by Hudson was the
great inland sea, called from him Hudson's Bay; and
It was a grand discovery, though not exactly what
he imagined. The 3d of August m';is now airived,
a seiwon at which the boldest of northern navigators
had been accustomed to think of returning. Little
inclined to such a course, he continued to sail along
the coast on the left, which must have appeared to
him the western boundary of America ; hoping pro-
bably before the close of autumn to reach some cul-
tivated and temperate shore, where he might take
up his wuiter-quarters. The shores along this bay,
however, though not in a very high latitude, are
subject to a climate the most rigorous and inclement.
Entangled in the gulfs and capes of an unknown
coast, struggling with mist and storm, and iU se-
conded by a discontented crew, he spent three
months without reaching any comfortable haven.
It was now the 1st November, the ice was closing in
on all sides, and nothing remained but to meet the
cheerless winter which had actually begun. The
sailors were too late of attempting to erect a wooden
house ; yet the cold, though severe, does not seem to
have reached any perilous height. Their chief alarm
respected provisions, of which they had brought
only a six months' supply, and consequently had now
only a small remnant left. Hudson took active
measures to relieve this want. He carefully hus-

«b^

ati'iti

VOTAOB0.

and he beheld before
h the eye could dis-
d to him, doubtless,
c. Here, however,
)ut expressinK those
1 which must have
d fulfilment of his
r Pricket, on which
o clearly that many
sympathy with such

by Hudson was the
Hudson's Bay; and
?h not exactly what
t was now airived,
lorthem navigrators
f retunung. Little
tinned to sail along
t have appeared to
lerica; hoping pro-

to reach some cul-
lere he might take
Tcs along this bay,
high latitude, are
OU8 and inclement.
es of an unknown
storm, and ill se-
V, he spent three
comfortable haven,
i ice was closing in
ed but to meet the
lally begun. The
f to erect a wooden
e, does not seem to

Their chief alarm
they had brought
sequently had now
idson took active
He carefully hus-

CARLY NonTH-Wl!BT V0YA0K8.

I8S

banded the original stock, and propounded a reward
to whoever should kill beast, flsh, or bird ; and
"Providence dealt mercifully," in sending such a
supply of white partridges, that in three months they
killed a hundred dozen. In spring these birds dis-
appeared, but were succeeded by flocks of geese,
swims, ducks, and teal, not denizens of the spot, btit
on their flight from soutli to north. When tliese
were passed, the air no longer yielded a supply, but
the sea began to oi)en, and having on the first day
taken five hundred fishes of tolerable size, they con-
ceived good hopes ; but this success did not conti-
nue. Being reduced to great extremity, they searched
the woods for moss, which they compare, however,
to pounded timber : they ate even frogs. The com-
mander undertook an excursion with a view to open
an intercourse with the natives, but they fled, setting
fire even to the woods behind them. Parley was
obtained with one, who was loaded with gifts, yet
he never returned. Discontents arose as to the diis-
tribution of the small remaining portion of bread
and cheese, to allay which the captain made a gene-
ral and equal partition of the whole. This was a bad
measure among such a crew, many of whom knew
not how "to govern their share," but greedily
devoured it as long as it lasted. One man even ate
the whole in a day, and broug;ht on a dangerous sur-
feit. Their distress, becomnig thus greater than
ever, soon brought on a most fatal crisis.

Hudson, as may be observed, had from the first to
struggle with an unprincipled, ill-tempered crew,
void of any concern for the ultimate success of the
voyage. He had probably hoped, as the season
should advance, to push on southward, and reach
next summer the wealthy regions which he was
coKimissioned to search, The sailors, on the contrary,
had fixed their desires on " the cape where fowls do
breed," the only place where they expected to obtain
both present suDcly and the means of returning to
U -2

180

EARLY NORTH-WCaT VOYAOEfl.

Englnnd. RinRleadrrs were not wantinff to head
this |[(rowinpr party of mnlcontents. At the entrance
of the bay the captnin liad disphiccd Ivet the mate,
who had shown strong propensitiea totirarda return-
ing, and appointed in his room Bylot, a man of
merit, and who had always shown zoai in the ge-
neral cause. He had also clianged the boatswain.
But the most deadly blow was struck by (irecn,
a wretch »vhom, after he had been cast off by all
his friends, Hudson, from humanity, had taken on
board, and endeavoured to reclaim and restore to
society. He was possessed of talents which had made
him useful, and even a favourite with his superior;
and among other discontents, it was reckoned one,
that a veil was thrown over several flagrant disor-
ders of which he had been guilty. Yet some hot
expressions of Hudson caused, it is said, by a mis-
understanding about the purchase of a gmy coat, so
acted on the fierce spirit of this ruffian, that, renounc-
ing every tie of gratitude and all that is sacred among
mankind, he became the chief in a conspiracy to seize
the vessel and expose the commander to perish.

After some days' consultation, the time was fixed
for the perpetration of this horrible atrocity. On
the 21st June, 1611, Green and Wilson the boat-
swain came into Pricket the narrator's cabin, and
announced their fatal resolution ; adding, that they
bore him so much good-will as to wish that he should
remain on board. Pricket avers most solemnly,
that he exhausted every argument which might in-
duce them to desist from ihmi horrid purpose, be-
seeching them not to do so foul a thing in the sight
of God and man, and which would for ever bamsh
them from their native country, their wives, and
children. Green wildly answered, that they had
made up their minds to go through with it or die,
and that they would rather be hanged at home than
starve here. An attempt was then made to nego.
tiate a delay of three, two, or even one day, but aU

VOYAOEI.

t wantinif to head
a. At the entrance
iced Ivet the mate,
iea to\irardi return*
I Bylot, a man of
wn zoal in the ge-
xe(\ tbe l)oat8wain.

struck by Green,
een cast off by till
nity, had taken on
lini and restore to
nts which liad made
with his superior}
was reckoned one,
sral flajn^nt disor-
y. Yet some hot
t is said, by a mis-
I of a gray coat, so
flan, that, renounc
lat is sacred among
conspiracy to seize
nder to perish,
the time was fixed
ible atrocity. On
Wilson the boat-
rrator's cabin, and

adding, that they
vish t}iat he should
s most solemnly,
It which might in-
lorrid purpose, be-
i thing in the si^ht
Id for ever bamsh

their wives, and
id, that they had
jh with it or die,
iged at home than
en made to nego«
n one day, but all

CARLV NORTII-WVBT VOYAQEM

187

without effect. Ivet came next, of whom, as btiing
a person of mature age, there Kcomcd more hope; but
he was worse than Green, declaring that he would
justify in England the (hed on which they had re-
solved. John Thomas and Michael I'crsc now camo
in, proving thcmwdvcH "birds of a feather," and
Motor and Uunnet having followed, an oath was
administered to the following tenor:— "You shall
swear truth to Go<l, your jjrince, and country ; you
shall do nothing but to the glory of God and the good
of the action in hand, and harm to no man." Pricket
complains of the reproach thrown upon him for hav.
ing taken this oath, the bare terms of which are
certainly unexceptionable ; but the dark context by
which they were illustrated marks them ns contain-
ing an implied obligation to remain at least psissive
on this dreadful occasion. All was now ready, but
Pricket persuaded them to d "hiy till daylight tho
accomplishment of their crime. They agreed, but
kept strict watch through the night, and held them-
selves ready to act at the first appearance of dawn.
Daybreak approaching, Hudson came out of his
cabin, when he was instantly set ui)on by Thomas,
Bennet, and Wilson, who seized him and bound his
hands behind his back ; and on his eageriy asking
what they meant, told him he should know when
he was in tho shallop. Ivet then attacked King
the carpenter, known as the commander's most de-
voted adherent. That brave fellow, having a sword,
made a formidable resistance, and would have killed
h/8 assailant, had not the latter been speedily re.
inforced. The mutineers tlien offered to him tha
choice of continuing in the ship ; but he absolutely
refused to be detained otherwise than by force, and
immediately followed his master, whom the conspi-
rators were already letting down the sides of the ves-
sel mto the shallop. Then, with a barbarity Iteyond
all example, they called from their beds and drove
mto it, not the firm adherents of Hudson, but the

mm

mei!mmm»im,\mm»imwm.i} mnnjij i

. «ir1!j!tjtlii1.i|j-»1ri

188

XAIU.7 NORTH-WEST VOTAGKS.

Bick and infirm sailors who could afford no aid, and
whose support would have been burdensome. They
threw after them the carpenter's box, with some pow-
der and shot. Scarcely was this transaction com-
pleted, when they cut off the boat from the stem,
" out with their topsail," and set off, flying as from
an enemy. Hudson, thus abandoned, was never
heard of more ; and this great navigator undoubted-
ly perished on those remote and desolate shores,
though the form or duration of the distress to which
he fell a victim must be for ever unknown.

The sailors, as soon as the guilty deed was ac-
complished, fell upon the ship as on a captured vessel,
breaking open every chest, and seizing on every
remnant of food which could be discovered. Green,
however, who now assumed the command, used some
vigour in restoring order. He placed the cabin and
provisions under the charge of Pricket, who was af-
terward accused of a matter no less than treason, —
lliat of secreting some cakes of bread. As soon as
the mutineers had time to reflect, rueful musings be-
gan to arise. Even Green admitted that England at
this time was no place for them, nor could he con-
trive any better scheme than to keep the high sea till,
by some means or other, they might procure a pardon
under his Majesty's hand and seal. The vessel was
now embayed, and detained for a fortnight amid fields
of ice, which extended for miles around it ; and, but
for some cockle-grass found on an island, the crew
must have perished by famine. Considerable dis-
putes with respect to the steerage arose between Ivet
and Bylot, who alone had any pretensions to skill ;
but the latter, being justly viewed with the greatest
confidence, at length guided them to Cape Digges,
the longed-for spot, the breeding place of fowls,
clouds of which accordingly still continued to darken
the air. The party immediately landed, spread them-
selves among the rocks, and began to shoot. While
the boa* was on shore, they saw seven canoes rowing

•0

■irai'.wmi-

OTAGBS.

afford no aid, and
rdensome. They
X, with some pow-

transaction com-
it from the stem,
off, flying as from
doned, was never
rigator undoubted-
i desolate shores,
3 distress to which
inknown.

iiilty deed was ac-
ti a captured vessel,

seizing on every
iscovered. Green,
mmand, used some
aced the cabin and
icket, who was af-
!ss than treason, —
)read. As soon as
rueful musings be-
ed that England at
nor could he con-
cp the high sea till.
It procure a pardon
. The vessel was
jrtnight amid fields
iround it ; and, but
n island, the crew

Considerable dis-
arose between Ivet
etensions to skill;
i with the greatest
n to Cape Digges,
g place of fowls,
lontinued to darken
inded, spread them-
n to shoot. While
iven canoes rowing

EARLY WORTH-WEST V0TA0E8.

189

towards them, whereupon "they prepared them-
selves for all assayes." However the savages came
forward, beating their breasts, dancing and leaping,
with every familiar and friendly sign. The utmost
intimacy commenced, the parties went backward and
forward, showed each other their mode of catching
fowls, and made mutual presents and exchanges. In
short, these appeared the most kind and simple peo-
ple m the world, and « God so blinded Henry Green,"
that he viewed them with implicit confidence. One
day, amid the height of this intimacy. Pricket, sitting
in the boat, suddenly saw a man's leg close to him.
Raising up his head, he perceived a savage with a
knife uplifted and ready to strike. In attempting to
arrest the blow, his hand was cut, and he could not
escape three wounds, one in the breast, and one in
the right thigh ; by which time he got hold of the
handle of the knife and wrenched it from the assassin,
whom he then pierced with his dagger in the left
side. At the same time a general attack was made
on the English crew, dispersed in different quarters.
Green and Perse came tumbling down wounded into
the boat, which pushed off, while Moter, " seeing
this medley," leaped into the sea, swam out, and,
gettmg hold of the stern, was pulled in by Perse.
Green now cried coragio, and he and Perse bran-
dished their weapons with such vigour, that the
savages ceased attempting to enter the boat; but
they poured in clouds of arrows, one of which struck
Green with such force that he died on the spot, and
his body was thrown into the sea. At length the
party reached the vessel ; but Moter and Wilson died
that day, and Perse two days after. Thus perished
the chief perpetrators of the late dreadful tragedy,
visited by Providence with a fate not less terrible
than that which they had inflicted on their illustrious
unfortunate victim.

The crew, thus deprived of their best hands, were
in extreme perplexity, obliged to ply the ship to and

I.IJIWP.W1H

MM"

tpe^

190

BARLT NORTH-WEST T0TA0I8.

fro across the straits, and unable, without the utmoAt
fear and peril, to venture on shore ; which yet was
absolutely necessary for obtaining provisions to carry
them to England. They contrived, during some
anxious and unhappy excursions, to collect three
hundred birds, which they salted and preserved as
the only stock whereupon to attempt the voyage,
'fhey suffered, during the passage, the most dreadful
extremities of famine, allowing only half a fowl
a-day to each man, and considering it a luxury to
have them fried with candles, of which a weekly dis-
tribution was niade for that purpose. Ivet, now the
Bole survivor of the ringleaders in the late dreadful
transai^tion, sunk under these privations. Tl»e last
fowl was in the steep-tub, and the men were become
careless or desperate, when suddenly it pleased
God to give them sight of land, which proved to be
the north of Ireland. They complain that on going
ashore at Berehaven.they did not meet the sympathy
and kindness which they so much needed; however,
by mortgaging their vessel, they obtained the means
of proceeding to Plymouth.

Purchas closes the narrative by saying, — " Well,
Mr. Pricket, I am in much doubt of thy fidelity ;"
and he is not singular in this suspicion. It seems
clear that this person did not avail nimself of all the
means by which he might have attempted to check
the atrocious mutiny. Probably, however, had he
been an active agent in the crime, he would have
been betrayed by some of his accomplices; or, if
they had been all bound together by mutual guilt,
they would have invented some story which would
have palliated or concealed the offence altogether ;
whereas it is set forth by this narrative in all its
atrocity.

Notwithstanding the calamitous and deplorable
issue of tliis voyage, the discovery thereby made of
a great open sea in the west seemed to jus y the
moBt flattering hopes of accomplishing a pas>sage.

'osmmi^Mmmm..

without the utmost
jre ; which yet was
^provisions to canry
rived, during some
IS, to collect three
d and preserved as
Itenipt the voyape.
e, the most dreadful
[ only half a fowl
ering it a luxury to
which a weekly dis-
ose. Ivet, now the
in the late dreadful
rivations. Tlie last
e men were become
luddenly it pleased
which proved to be
iplain that on going
; meet the sympathy
li needed; however,
obtained the means

by saying,—" Well,
bt of thy fidelity ;"
uspicion. It seems
il himself of all the
attempted to check
r, however, had he
ime, he avouM have
accomplices; or, if
ler by mutual guilt,
: story which would
oflTenee altogether;
narrative in all its

JUS and deplorable
ry thereby made of
emed to jus y the
plishing a pacisage.

EARLY NORTH-WEiT V0TA0S8.

191

To follow out this prospect. Captain, afterward Sir
Thomas Button, was despatched next year (1613),
having Bylot and Pricket as guides. Button seems
to have been an active and resolute seaman. He
soon made his way through the Straits, and, pushirg
directly across the great sea which opened to the
westward, lie came in view of an insular cape, which
he called Carey's Swan's Nest, and which aftervird
proved to be the most southern point of Southamp-
ton Island. Nothing else broke the apparent conti-
nuity of the ocean, and he cherished sanguine hopes
that the first coast he should see would be that of
Japan. Suddenly the alarm of land was given,
when there appeared before him an immense range
of Arctic coast, stretching north and south, and bar-
ring all further progress. Button, deeply disap-
pointed, gave to it the name of Hope Checked. Be-
fore he had time to look for an opening, the gloom
of the northern winter began to gather, and it be-
hooved him to seek quarters for the season. These )i(>
found in the same creek and river, which afterward
became the principal settlement of the Hudson's Bay
Company. In spite of his best precautions, he lost
several men through the severity of the cold, and
was unable to extricate himself from the ice till the
middle of June. He then steered northward, and
sought an opening through the broad bay between
the continent and Southampton Island, since called
Roe's Welcome. Seeing this chaimel, however, be-
come narrower and narrower, till it apparently closed,
he gave up the attempt, and, after touching at several
points of tlie island just named, returned to England.
Although Button had been thus baffled by the
unwelcome encounter of the western shore of Hud-
son's Bay, the merchants still justly considered it
by no means ascertained that this coast was so ex-
tensive and continuous as to preclude all passage
into the ocean beyond America ; they lost not a sea-
son, therefore, in fitting out (1614) two vessels under

192

EARLY NORTH-WEST TOTAOES.

Captain Gibbons, an officer of reputation, pronounced
by Button " not short of any man that ever yet he
carried to sea." But either his reputation went be-
yond his merits, or fortune was singularly adverse,
for never was there a more abortive voyage. He was
early entangled in a bay on the coast of Labrador, in
which he was detained the whole summer, and which
was afterward dignified with the appellation of " Gib-
bons his Hole." Having liere sustained some damage
from the ice, he had no sooner extricated himself than
ht! returned home.

The merchant adventurers, still undismayed, sent
out next summer (1665) the Discovery under Bylot,
who in all tlie late voyages had approved himself a
skilful navigator, and was accompanied by Baffin,
whose name was now established as the most skilful
steersman and best nautical observer of the age.
After passing Cape Farewell, they saw somu most
tremendous islands of ice, one of which rose 240
feet above water, and, according to the usual esti-
mate, which makes this visible part only a seventh
of the whole, had probably an entire height of 1680
feet. They entered the Straits, and having, on the
2d June, heard from tlie northern shore a tremen-
dous barking of dogs, landed and found five tents
covered with seal-skin, among which were running
about thirty-five or forty of these animals, of a
brinded black colour, resembling wolves. They had
collars and harness suitable for certain sledges, lined
with fish-bone, which were standing by. In one of
the houses was a bag with little images o*" men, the
only notice we find of any such fabrication upon this
coast. The navigators soon descried a canoe with
twenty individuals, whom they hailed with Greenland
words of courteous import, holding up knives and
other toys. Friendly salutations were given in return ;
but neither party chose to trust themselves within
reach of the other. At a little distance, the conflict
of opposite currents amid large icebergs caused so

♦ '

roTAOES.

utation, pronounced
n that ever yet he
eputiition went be-
singularly adverse,
e voyage. He Wiis
oast of Labrador, in
summer, and which
iI)pellation of " Gib-
ained some damage
ricated himself than

1 undismayed, sent
overy under Bylot,
ipproved himself a
mpanied by Baffin,
I as the most skilful
iserver of the age.
ey saw somo most
of which rose 240

to the usual esti-
art only a seventh
itire height of 1G80
and having, on the
•n shore a tremen-
id found five tents
hich were running
ese animals, of a
wolves. They had
;rtain sledges, lined
ing by. In one of
images o*" men, the
ibrication upon this
icried a canoe with
iled with Greenland
ing up knives and
rere given in return ;

themselves within
istance, the conflict
icebergs caused so

EARtT NORTH-WEST VOTAOEB.

103

fearful a grmding, that they gave to the adjoining
land the name of Mill Island. There they would
have been in extreme danger " had not God, who is
Ktrongor than ice or stream," deUvcred them.

The policy of lUiot in this voyage seems to have
I>een to keep dos- . the northern shore of the strait ;
and thus, entering' ludson's Bay at a higher latitude,
he hoped to keep clear of those lands which had
barred the westerly career of his predecessors. On
reaching, therefore, Hudson's Isles of God's Mercy,
instead of steering southward to Cape Dudley Digges,
lie proceeded directly west, and arrived in the broad
expanse, afterward called the Fox Channel. At
length, indeed, he saw land, but it was bounded by
a cape which had every appearance of being the
most northerly jwint of America. He called it Cape
Comfort; though this name it soon appeared, was
premature, for a single day had not elapsed, when
" his sudden comfort was as soon quailed." They
were now on the eastern coast of Southampton
Island, which spread on every side its almost mea-
sureless extent, seeming to preclude every prospect
of an opening on either hand. Disappointment, the
lateness of the season, and tlie pressure of the ice,
concurred in persuading Bylot that there was nothing
to be hoped for here, and determined him to set sail
immediately for England ; whither he carried a most
unfavourable report as to any prospect of penetratinir
westward in that direction.

But the adventurers were not discouraged by this
unfavourable result. Turning their hopes to a differ-
ent quarter, next year (1616) they again fitted o«t
uylot and Baffin with instructions no longer to at-
tempt the passage by Hudson's Bay, but to enter
the fretwn Davis (Davis's Straits), and push due
north till they reached lat 80°, if an open sea should
allow them to proceed so far ; then, turning to the
westward, to round, if practicable, the extreme point
of America, and to bear down upon Japan. Respect-
R

A,mm

mmm

194

lARLT HORTR-WSST rOTAflSfl.

ing this vojrage, which, perhaps, of all those to the
north, produced the most memorable discoveries,
Baffin has favoured us with only a very meager nar-
ration. Following the course pointed out, he reached,
on the 30th May, Hope Sanderson, the farthest point
of Davis's progress. Soon afterward the expedition
came to a number of small islands, on which they
found only females, some of very great age. These
at first ran and hid themselves among the rocks;
but the sailors having reached two dames, one of
whom was estimated at fourscore, and having pre-
sented to them bits of iron and the usual toys, the
latter carried a favourable report to their youthful
countrj' women. The whole party soon came down
to the shore, and four even went on board tlw
boat. The charms of these ladies were heightened
or disfigured by long black streaks made in their
youth with a sharp instrument, and lodged so deep
that they could not now be effaced. It was observed,
too, that the dead were buried merely by piling stones
over them, above which the body appeared, secured,
however, from' putrefaction by the extreme cold of
the climate. . The navigators sailed onwards in lat.
74°, when thiey were arrested by a large body of ice,
and obliged to turn into a neighbouring sound to
wait its melting. Here they received repeated visits
from about forty-two natives, the only account of
whom is, that they brought an extraordinary quan-
tity of the bones of sea-unicorns or narwals, great
numbers of which were seen swimming in the water.
Hence this was called Horn Sound. The mass of
ice now dissolved before the powerful influence of
the sun, and the discoverers sailed northwards among
its fhigments ; but still, snow fell every day, and
the 8lux)uds and sails were often so hard frozen
as to make it impossible to handle them. In 76°
they came to a fair cape, and then to a fair sound,
to which they gave the respective names of Diffges
and Wolstcaholme, the two main promoters of this

OTAflSS.

of all those to the
orable discoveries,
a very meager nar-
ited out, he reached,
1, the farthest point
vard the expedition
nds, on which they
' great age. These
among the rocks;
two dames, one of
e, and having pre-
the usual toys, the
■t to their youthful
ty soon came down
irent on board tlio
es were heightened
iaks made in their
ind lodged so deep
id. It was observed,
rely by piling stones
r appeared, secured,
tie extreme cold of
lied onwards in lat.
a large body of ice,
l^hbouring sound to
jived repeated visits
le only account of
ixtraordinary quan-
s or narwals, great
[nming in the water,
und. The mass of
iwerful influence of
1 northwards among
fell every day, and
«n so hard frozen
idle them. In 76°
len to a fair sound,
^e names of Digges
a promoters of this

SARLT NOnTK-WEST VOTAQKS.

105

undertaking, and who.'^e zeal was already associated
with localities in the .nterior of Hudson's Straits.
After having sustained a somewhat severe storm,
the expedition discovered another sound, which
would havcsupplied them with a multitude of whales
had they been duly provided with the means of cap-
ture: this they called Whale Sound. Next, in 78°,
appeared another inlet, the widest and greatest in all
this sea, and which was named after Sir Thomas
Smith, one of the main promoters of discovery.
This opening, which Baffin seems to have examined
very superficially, abounded almost equally in whales,
and caused particular astonishment by the extraor-
dinary aberration of the needle, to which nothing
similar had been ever witnessed. Between these
two sounds was an island which was named .Hak-
luyt, after the venerable recorder of early English
discoveries. Proceeding now along the south-west-
em.boundary of this great sea, the next «' fair sound"
received the name of Alderman Jones, another patron
of these laudable pursuits. It may be remarked,
that Baffin notices all these inlets, of which he was
the first -discoverer, in the most cursory manner,
without mention of any attempt to trace, m their in-
terior depths, an opening into any sea beyond. In
lat. 74° there appeared another broad opening, which
was called Sir James Lancaster's Sound; but while
he calls it great, he seems scarcely to have noticed
tliis future entrance into the Polar Sea; on the Con-
trary, he observes, at the very same moment, that
the hope of a passage became every day less and
less. He sailed on ; but a barrier of ice prevented
him from approaching the shore till he came within
the "indraft" of Cumberland's Isles, "where hope
of passage could be none." Finding the health of
his crew rather declining, he sailed across to Green-
land, where an abundance of scurvy-grass boiled in
beer quickly restored them ; and " the Lord then sent
a speedy aad good passage homeward "

mmmmm

106

XARLir N0RTH-WB8T T07AOEf.

On returning, he expressed tlie most decided con-
vii'tion that the (jreat sea which ho had travcrHed was
a bay enclosed on all sides, and affording no orMjning
into any ocean to the westward ; and his judgment
was received by the public, who named it from him
Baffin's Bay. He forcibly, however, represented tho
great opportunities which it afforded for the whale-
fishery, as those huge animals were seen sleeping in
vast numbers on the surface of the water, witliont
fear of the ship " or of any thing elNC." Davis's
Straits, accordingly, have ever since been a favourite
resort of the fisliers, who have not, liowever, often
ventured into those high latitudes, where whales arc
described by Baffin as more peculiarly abundant.

There was now a pause in English discovery;
every quarter had been tried, and none seemed to
afford any farther promise. Denmark, however,
which has always felt a natural interest in northern
navigation, made an attempt to follow up the success
of Hudson and Baffin. In 1619, Christian IV. sent
out two well-appointed vessels under Jens Munk,
who had the reputation of a good seaman. He suc-
ceeded in penetrating through Hudson's Straits into
the bay, whereupon he took upon himself to change
the whole nomenclature of that region, imposing the
names of Christian's Straits and Christian's Sea, and
calling the western coast New Denmark. But this
innovation, which was contrary to every principle
recognised in such cases, has not been confirmed by
posterity. Wlien September arrived, and the ice
closed in, he thought it prudent to seek winter-quar-
ters, and, accordingly, established himself in the
mouth of an opening, which, it is highly probable,
was that channel which has been since called Ches-
terfield Inlet. The season seemed to open with the
best promise, commodious huts were constructed,
and there were both abundance and variety of game.
The Danes saw some of those brilliant aerial pheno
mena which are peculiar to those latitudes ; at one

iiism}*«« '

T07AOES.

3 most decided con-

0 had travcrMnl was
ifTordin^ nu o|)cning
; and his jud{arint-iit
named it from liim

vcr, represented the
rded for the whale-
ere seen sleeping in
the water, witliont
ing else." Davis's
uce been a favourite
not, however, often
s, where wliales aro
Jiarly abundant.
Kiiglish discovery;
id none seemed to
)cnmark, however,
interest in northern
How up the success
Christian IV. sent
under Jens Munk,

1 seaman. He sue-
idson's Straits into
I himself to change
egion, imposing the
Christian's Sea, and
)enmark. But this
to every principle
. been confirmed by
rived, and the ice
0 seek winter-quar-
ed himself in the
is highly probable,
i since called Chea-
sd to open with the

were constructed,
nd variety of game.
iUiant aerial pheno
i latitudes; at one

KARLT NORTR-WXST TOTAOtS.

197

time two, and at another three sims in the sky, and the
moon once environed by a transparent circle, within
which was a cross cutting through its centre ; but,
instead of amusing their minds with these beautiful
appearances, they were depressed by viewing them
as a mysterious presage of future evils. Frost now
set in with all its intensity ; their beer, wine, and
other, liquors were converted into ice; the scurvy
began its ravages, and, ignorant of the mode of
treating it, they employed no remedy, except a large
quantity of spirits, which has always been found to
aggravate that frightful disorder. Unfit for the ex-
ertion necessary to uenure the game with which the
country abounded, they soon had famine added to
their other distresses. Their miseries seem to have
been almost without a parallel, even in the dark an-
nals of northern navigation. Munk himself was left
four days in his hut without food : at length, having
crawled out, he found that, of the original crew of
fifty-two, no more than two survived. He and they
were overjoyed to meet, and determined to make an
effort to preserve life. Gathering strength from de-
spair, they dug into the snow, under which they
found herbs and grass, which, being of an anti-scor-
butic quality, soon produced a degree of amendment.
Being then able to fish and shoot, they gradually re-
gained their natural vigour. The-- e lipped anew
the smaller of the two vessels, in w;.. jt they reached
home, on the 25th September, 1620, after a stormy
and perilous voyage. Munk declare ' his readiness
to sail again ; and there are various reports as to the
cause why he did not. Some say, that having, in a
conference with the king, been stung by some ex-
pressions which seemed to impute the disasters of
the voyage to his mismanagement, he died of a broken
heart. But Forster relates, that, during several suc-
cessive years, he was employed by the king on the
North Sea and in the Elbe, and that he died in 1628,
when engaged in a naval expedition.
R2

108

EARLY NORTn-W»T VOTAOZfi

The English, nfter Baffin's expedition appeared
to have nhut out all prospect of discovery in the more
northern seas, confined for a long time all their ef>
fort! hi the direction of Hudson's Bay. As these
did not lead to any important results, and are chiefly
connected with the remoter settlements of America,
vrc shall introduce here only a very slight sketch of
them.

Captains Fox and James vrere fitted out in 1631.
The /onner examined two passages leading to the
northward, one on the western side of Southampton
Island, called Sir Thomas Koe's Welcome ; the
other on the eastern side, called from lumsclf Fox's
Channel ; but he did not trace cither to any great
height. James, entangled in the southern extremity
of Hudson's Bay, spent a winter under the most ex-
treme suffering from cold, and returned next summer
to England.

About 1668 a settlement was formed in Hudson's
Bay, and an extensive company established for the
traffic in furs; but this association, though bound by
their charter to make the most strenuous exertions
for the discovery of a western passage, concerned
themselves very little with the subject till 1719, when
they were in a manner compelled to fit out an expe-
dition under Knight and Barlow. These officers,
however, never returned, and a vessel sent next year
under Captain Scroggs could learn no tidings of tliem.
Nor was it till nearly fifty years afterwanl that the
wrecks of their armament were found on Marble
Island, where they^tppear to have been cast ashore
and lost.

In 1741, after a long interval, Captain Middleton,
supported by a gentleman of the name of Dobbs, ob-
tained the command of two vessels, with which he
sailed up the Welcome. He came to a long inlet
called the Wager, but it appeared quite enclosed by
land, with a river falling into it. Proceeding to the
northern extremity of tlie Welcome, he found a

T -wiii'iTfrni

VOTAOitt

'xpedition appeared
JBcovery in the more
\g time all tlieir ef-
m's Bay. As these
■lults, and are chiefly
lements of America,
cry slight sketch of

! fitted out in 1631.
a^es leading to tlie
lide of Southampton
le's Welcome ; the
from lumsclf Fox's
cither to any great
: southern extremity
r under the most cx-
!tumed next stunmer

formed in Hudson's
' e9tahli«hed for the
m, thoiiffh bound by
strenuous exertions
passage, concerned
ibjcct till 1719, when
d to fit out an expc-
w. These ofUcers,
'cssel sent next year
n no tidings of tliem.
1 afterward that the
re found on Marble
'e been cast ashore

Captain Middleton,
name of Dobbs, o\h-
sels, with which he
ime to a long inlet
id quite enclosed by
Proceeding to the
ilcome, he found a

■ARLT NORTH'WCST ▼OTAQIS.

199

spacious opening, that afforded at first the greatest
hopcH ; but, flhding it also shut in bv land, he named
it kepulso Uay. The coast then taking an easterly
direction, he followed it till he came to a channel,
which, from tiie accnmtdation of ice at its entrance,
he called the Frozen Strait. A current ran through
it, which, however, appeared to him to be merely the
one that had entered by Hudson's Straits, and pro-
ceeded circuitously round Southampton Island. He
returned home, expressing a decided conviction that
no practicable passage existed in that direction.

Mr. Dobbs, the mover of the expedition, was
deeply disappointed by this result; and from his
own reflections, and tlie statement of several of the
inferior oflioers, became convinced that Middleton
had given a very false and imperfect statement of the
facts. Of this he so fully convin<!ed both the Par-
liinent and the nation, that £10,000 was subscribed
for a new expedition, and a reward of £90,000 pro-
mised to the discoverers of the projected passage.
Captains Moor and Smith, in 106, commanded this
armament, which, hke many of those ecjuipped with
peculiar pomp and circumstance, entirely failed.
They merely ascertained, what was pretty well
known before, that the Wager afforded no passage ;
and, after spending a severe winter there, returned
next season to England.

It appears, by notices which Mr. Barrow has drawn
from the Admiralty records, that the armed brig
Lion was sent in 1776, under Lieutenant Pickersgill,
and in 1777, under Lieutenant Young, with the view
of acting in concert with Captain Cook, who, in his
third voyage, might, it was hoped, make his way
round from Behring's Straits mto the Atlantic.
These officers reached respectively the latitudes of
68° and 73°, without effectmg or almost attemptmg
any thing farther.

MPnp

soo

MOINT NOKTH>WIIT TOTAOIf.

CHAPTER VIT.

Recent Voyages for the Discovery of a M'orth-wtst
Passage.

Britain had seen other nations cany off nil the
ffreat prizes in naval dlHcovery. She had scarrely a
vessel on the ocean, when the nations of the Itierian
|)eninsula laid open new worlds, and appropriated the
gokkn treasures of the east and of tne west. Her
energies heinjif once roused, her efforts were from the
beginning bold and adventurous, thougli sometimes
made with inadequate means, on a small scale, and
often with a disastrous issue. Advancing, however,
with regular steps, she first rivalled and finally sur-
passed all other modem nationn. The reigns of
<5eorge III. and of his eldest Bon formed the era
which decided both her maritime supremacy and her
special eminence in the department of discovery.
She achieved almost entirely the exploration of the
vast expanse of the South Sea, with its great and
numerous islands, leaving to the rival exertions of
France only a scanty gleanmg. The revolutionary
war for some time attracted exclusively the attention
and resources of the nation ; but as soon as a series
of signal triumphs had left Britain without an enemy
to contend with in the seas of Europe, she looked
again to this theatre of her former glory. Even
amid the din of arms, the African Association pur-
sued their enlightened and philanthropic course ; and
the important and brilliant issues to which it had led
finally induced the government to take an interest in
this undertaking, and apply to it resources which no

E'vate body could command. Mr. Barrow, who, by
personal observation, had illustrated eome of tlie

^Am

TOTAOII.

IT.

ry of a M'orth-wtit

IB carry off nil the

She had scarcj'ly a
tions of the Idormn
ind appropriated the

of tne wont. Her
fforts were from the
, thou(;li Bometimes

a Bmnll scale, and
dvancinjf, however,
led and finally sur-
vt. Tho reigns of
ion formed the era

Bupremacy and her
ntient of discovery.

exploration of the
with itR frreat and

rival exertions of

The revolutionary
isively the attention

as soon as a series
a without an enemy
Rurope, she looked
rmer glory. Even
n Association pur-
hropic course ; and
I to which it had led
I take an interest in
resources which no
[r. Barrow, who, by
atrated eotue of tlia

KKCINT tfORTH-WKIIT VOVAOII.

sflr

tnoni important qiisrters both of this and of other
rontinenth, took tne chief liircciion; prompting aiH\
Rui(iiii<; every itep with an eiier)(etic perseverance
ami practical Judtnncnt which had never been ex-
tended in an tM)tiul dejpree to similar objects. Tim
meaNiires imdertaken with respect to Africa, with
their varied and eventful results, do not come within
the compass of the present work. Iliit when lli«
spirit was once roused, it did not conflno itself to a
muiiUi point. The northern seas, as a theatre of ad-
venture, had Iwen unoccupied fjr half a century
'I'hero prevailed, indeed, a ((encral impreBsion, that
BO many expeditions undertaken in vain had set that
ffrcat (piestion at rest; but when Mr. Barrow applied
to it the powers of his vigorous and ijonctriitinff Judg-
ment, he became sensible that this conclusion was
quite groundless. Baffin had once sailed round that
great sea, which by him, and from him, was called a
bay J but his examination had been quite Buperflcial,
and insufficient to establish that continuity of land
with which the maps had so thoroughly enclosed it.
There were even striking facts indicating that there
was a communication with the Greenland sea on the
one side and tho Polar basin and tho Pacific Ocean on
the other. Even in regard to Hudson's Bay, no pro-
gress had been made since Parliament had offered a
reward of £20,000, and sent out the large expedition
under the Captains Moor and Smith. Thus the grpnd
question in which the country had long taken so deep
an interest was Btill open ; and to decide it nothing
more seemed necessary than that skill and undaunted
courage, of which British seamen had shown them-
selves so eminently possessed.

In 1818, the Admiralty fitted out two expeditions;
one destined for the discovery of the north-west pass-
age, the other to attempt a voyage across the Pol&
The first, which is the one we are at present to follow
confliBted ol ti Isabella of 385 tons, commanded
by Captain Johi: Robs, an officer of reputation and

i-iam»

S02

RECENT NORTH-VSaT VOTAOZS

experienced who had twice wintered in the 1: Jtic, had
been employed in surveying th« White Sea, and
been as far north as Bear or Cherie Island. Another
vessel, the Alexander of 258 tons, was commanded
by Lieutenant Parry, a young officer of rising merit,
who has since amply justified the choice which was
made by his employers.

On the 18th April the vessels dropped down the
Thames, and by the end of the month were off the
Shetland Islands. By the 27th May they came in
view of Cape Farewell ; round whicH, as usual, were
floating numerous and lofty icebergs of the most
varied forms and tints. On the 14th June they reached
the Whale Islands, where they were informed by the
governor of the Danish settlement, that the past
win'er had been uncommonly severe, the neigh-
bouring bays and straits having been all frozen two
months earlier than usual, and that some of the
channels northward of his station were still bound
in with the ice. A curious statement was here made,
that the Esquimaux, by their own account, could see
across the whole breadth of the bay, though not less
than two hundred miles, which would be an extra-
ordinary instance of the power of refraction; but
the ice, it nray be observed, often presents deceptive
appearances of land On the 17th June, in the
neighbourhood of Waygat Island, an impenetrable
barrier obliged the discoverers to stop their course,
making themselves fast to an iceberg, and having
forty-five whale-ships in company. Observations
made on land proved this island to be misplaced on
the maps Inr no less than five degrees of longitude.
At length the ice attached to the eastern shore broke
up, though still forming a continuous and impenetra-
ble rampart at some distance to the westward, in
which direction it had drifted ; but in the intermediate
space they were enabled to move forward slowly
along the coast, labouring through narrow and
intricate chatmels, amid mountains and loose fragi

MM*

' VOTAOZS

ered in the I: <iltic, had
the White Sea, and
erie Island. Another
ona, was commanded
)fficerof rising merit,
lie choice which was

ils dropped down the
month were off the
h May they came in
whicH, as usual, were
zebergs of the most
4th June they reached
were informed by the
?ment, that the past
r severe, the n^igh-
• been all frozen two
d that some of the
ion were still bound
iment was here made,
irn account, could see
) bay, though not less
would be an extra-
sr of refraction; but
m presents deceptive
5 l7th June, in the
ind, an impenetrable
to stop their course,
iceberg, and having
pany. Observations
[ to be misplaced on
egrees of longitude.
! eastern shore broke
luous and impenetia-
to the westward, in
ut in the intermediate
ove forward slowly
urough narrow and
una and loose frag<

:^ffi

fcEOSNT NORTH-WSST TOTAOES.

ihents of ice. They steered their course, however,
to the higher parts of the bay, and in about lat. 75"
cfune to a coast which had not been visited by former
navigators. They were stmck, as Baffin Aad been,
by the great number of whales which were slum'
bering securely in these deep recesses, never having
been alarmed by the harpoon. On the 7th August,
in the same latitude, a heavy gale sprung up, and
driving the ice against the vessels, made a display
of its terrible and dangerous power. A trial of
strength ensued between the ice and the ships ; being
daslied against each other with such force, that the
anchors and cables were successively broken, and a
boat, which could not be withdrawn from between
their stems, was crushed to pieces. Providentially,
when instant destruction was expected, the icy mass
receded, and the ships, owing to the extraordinary
strength of their construction, escaped without m.a-
terial injury.

Proceeding along a high mountainous coast, the
expedition came to a tribe of Esc^uimaux, who, of
all human beings, seem to exist m a state of the
deepesl seclusion. They had never before seen men
belonging to the civilized world, or of a race differ-
ent from their own. The first small party whom
the navigators approached showed every sign of the
deepest alarm ; heading, as was afterward under-
stood, a fatal influence from the mere touch of these
beings of an tmknown species. Yet they seem to
have felt a secret attraction towards the strangers,
and advanced, holding fast the long knives lodged
in their boots, and looking significantly at each
other. Having come to a chasm which separated
them from the English, they made earnest si^s that
only Saccheous the interpreter,* who boie a certain

* Thia yonng man wu a nntlve of Greenland, who had aeeompanied
the ThomsB and Ann, Captain Newton, one of the Leilh whalen, on
her homeward voyage in 1816 ; and the follcwing year he went out to
Ui« fitliery, returning a uecoud Uuie tu Europe. Uuiing Uiii period

■WMMM

-vriAMi'illM>W'TiMra'j>Mw»llMi

204

KECENT NORTH-WSST rOYAOM.

resemblance to themselves, should come across. He
went forward and offered his hand. They shrunk
back for some time in alarm ; at length the boldest
touched H and, finding it Hesh and blood, set up a
loud shout, which three others joined. The rest of
the party then came up, to the number of eight, witli
60 dogs, which joined with their masters in raising a
tremendous clamor. Ross and Parry now tliought
it time to come forward. This movement excited
alarm, and a tendency to retreat ; but Saccheous
having taught these officers to pull their noses, this
sign of amity was graciously accepted. A. mirror
was now held up to them, on seeing their faces m
which they showed the most extreme astonishment ;
they looked round on each other a few moments in
silence, then set up a general shout, succeeded by a
loud laugh of delight and surprise. The ship was
then the next object of their speculation. They be-
gan by endeavouring to ascertain its nature by inter-
rogating itself; for they conceived it to be a huge
bird spreading its vast wings and endowed with
reason. One of them, pulling his nose with the
utmost solemnity, began an address, " Who are you ?
Whence come jrou J Is it from the sun or the moon 1"
The ship remaining silent, they at length applied to
Saccheous, who assured them that it was a frame of
timber, the work of human art. To them, however,
who had never seen any wood but slight twigs and
stunted heath, its immense planks and masts were
objects of amazement. What animal, they also

being intelligent an4 docile, be made no meiin proficiency In a course
of elementary •tudy, In the pnw.ntlon of wliicli lie received every ae-
iUtanee fVom Iiis Menda in Leith. On the equipment of the Arctic
eipedition, liia wiahei to accompany the diacnvery glilpa having been
communicated to government through the medium of Captain Raiil
Hall, he was Immediately engaged as interpreter. His servires in tliat
capacity, as tbe narrative sbowa, were of eminent utility ; and, on hie
return, the Admhraity, deeirous to have hira property instructed, in ilie
event of a future ez|ieditinn, lem liim to Edinburgh for that purpose.
Here, liowever, in tlw ensuing spring, be was iinronunstely atlucked
wilb u Inflaiuautoiy fvvctr, wbicb carried Um off in a few day*

iiiimMiiniwwii nm— iDiw— iMiAi

teJSSj?IESti5&:r:

Wifi'fifiiia'Wri

r roYAOii.

uld come across. He
hand. They shrunk
It length the boldest
I and blood, set up a
joined. The rest of
number of eight, witli
r masters in raising a
1 Parry now thought
is movement excited
eat ; but Saccheous
pull their noses, this
accepted. A mirror
seeing their faces m
Ureine astonishment ;
er a few moments in
hout, succeeded by a
prise. The ship was
Bculation. They be-
in its nature by inter-
ived it to be a huge

and endowed with
; his nose with the
ress, " Who are you ?
he sun or the moon 1"
at length applied to
liat it was a frame of

To them, however,
but slight twigs and
nks and masts were
t animal, they also

leim proficiency In a course
ivliicli lie received every as-
le equipment of the Arctic
lincnvery glilpB having been
I medium of C'Rptain Raiil
|)reter. His services in ilist
iminent utility ; nnd, on hii
■ pc<^rly Instructed, In die
SdlnburiD for that purpose,
nras iinrortunitely atlaiked
Uu off in a f«w dayi

RXOBNT N0&TH>WS8T VOTAOM.

208

asked, could funish those enormous ikitu which
were spread for the sails. Their admiration was
soon followed by a desire to possess some of the
objects which met their eyes, but with little cere-
mony or dis "imination as to the means of effecting
their end. They attempted first a spare topmast,
then an anclior ; and tiiese proving too ponderous,
one of them tried the siqith's anvil ; but, finding it
fixed, made off at least with the large hammer.
Another wonder for them was to see the sailors
mounting to the topmast ; nor was it without much
hesitation that they ventured their own feet in the
shrouds. A little terrier dog appeared to them a
contemptible object, wholly unfit for drawing burdens
or being yoked in a sledge, while the grunt of a hog
filled them with alarm.

This tribe, in features, form, and even language,
belong evidently to the Esquimaux,— a race widely
diffused over aH the shores of the Arctic ocean. They
appear to have little or no communication with the
rest, and amid fhe genetal resemblance have some
distinguishing characters. The boat, large or small,
which we almost instinctively associate with our
idea of the Greenlander, is here wholly unknown.
Much of their food is found within the deep, but is
procured merely by walking over tiie lev surface,
which incrusts it during the greater part of the year.
Yet they have one important advantage, not only
ove^r other Esquimaux, but over the most civilized
of the native Arnericaos. The country swords iron,
which, beiitg flattened by sharp stones, and inserted
in a handle made of the horn of the sea-unicorn,
forms knives much more e£5cient than those framed
of bone by the neighbouring hordes. Again, unlike
the other tribes, they have a king, who rules seem-
ingly with gentle sway; for they described him as
strong, veiy good, and very much beloved. The dis-
coverers du) not visit the court of this Arctic jwten-
tate ; but they understood tiiat he drew a tribute,
S

*

. ■wgaTtawarr<arrrgaaim-.

306

RICKNT KORTRkWEST VOTAOSS.

consitting of train-oil, seal-skins, and the bone of-
the unicorn. Like other Greeidanders, they had
sledges drawn by large and powerful teams of dogs ;
their chase was ciiiefly confined to hares, foxes of
various colours, the seal, and the narwd. They re-
jected with horror the perverted luxuries of biscuit,
Bweatmeats, or spirits ; train-oil, as it streamed from
the seal and the unicorn, alone gratified their palate.
Captain Ross, swayed by national impressions, gave
to this tribe the name of Arctic Highlanders.

In the northern part of this coast the navigators
observed a remarkable phenomenon, — a range of
cliffs, the snowy covering of which had exchanged
its native white for a tint of dark crimson. This
red snow was not only examined on the spot, but a

{)ortion of it was broug^ o England, and was ana-
yzed by the most learned men both at home and
abroad, who have entertained various opinions as
to the origin of the colour. The latest observations,
as elsewhere observed, have established its vegetable
origin. *

Having now passed Cape Dudley Digges, Captain
Ross found himself among those spacious sounds
which Baffin had named, but so imperfectly de-
scribed. He seems, however, to have followed the
same hasty method. On looking up an inlet or
opening, and seeing it, at whatever instance, appa-
rently closed by land, he pronounced it at once a
bay, and deemed farther investigation superfluous.
Too much importance seems also to have been
attached to barriers of ice, which in many cases were
only temporary. He sailed past Wolstenholme and
Whale Sounds very quickly, without approaching
even their entrance ; concluding them to be blocked
up with ice, and to afford no hope of a passage. As
these openings stretched towaras the north, it must
be admitted that they could not m this high latitude
be considered very fovourable as to a western route.
He came next to Sir Thomas Smith's Sound, whiclb

!*-''^T~Tr^-'''^'^^''K^yrr '^rci'rrnxT.'t":

E-^;33?I3?.^*eLT:;sii.i.-'iiis;;-^

£i3»ni«fi*^^i?^i.^!^*4wifeii^wkv4!-A^^

-^■-

MBSfeiL...

roTAosa.

I, and the bone of
danders, they had
rful teams of dogs ;
to hares, foxes of
narwal. They re-
luxuries of biscuit,
18 it strea:ined from
atified their palate.
1 impressions, gave
Tightanders.
>a8t the navigators
enon, — a range of
ich had exchanged
rk crimson. 'Hiis
I on the spot, but a
land, and was ana-
both at home and
arious opinions as
latest observations,
lished its vegetable

ey Digges, Captain
s spacious sounds
10 imperfectly de-
have followed the
\g up an inlet or
i^er (ustance, appa-
mced it at once a
^tion superfluous.
Iso to have been
n many cases were
Wolstenholme and
thout approaching
hem to be blocked
of a passage. As
I the north, it must
1 this high latitude
to a western route,
ith's Sound, which

BIOINT NORTH-WEST TOTAeES.

20?

we may recoUsct Baffin to have described as the
most spacious and promising in the whole circuit of
these coasts. It was viewed with greater attention ;
but Captain Ross considered himself as having dis-
tinctlv seen it, at the distance of eighteen leagues,
completely enclosed by land. The space appears too
great for so positive an inference, and the belief that
ice barred its entrance seems to have been adopted
on very sUght grounds. He came next to a spacious
bay, which had hitherto been unknown and unob-
served,—afterward to that which Baffin had called
Alderman Jones's Sound ; but in respect to both, the
ice at their entrance, and the apparent boundary of
high land in the interior, led, as in the other in-
stances, to a prompt and unfavourable conclusion.

The season was now somewhat advanced, the
end of August approached, the sun set after a per-
petual day of two months and a half, and a thick
fogrend|red the lengthening nights more gloomy.
The land, seen at some distance, consisted of very
high and steep mountains, presenting, however,
some spots fit for human habitation. An opening,
forty-five nules wide, to the southward of a promon-
tory which was named Cape Chariotte, was decided
against m the usual summary manner. On the
30th August, the expedition cwne to a most mag-
nificent inlet, bordered by lofty mountains of peculiar
grandeur, while the water, being clear and free from
ice, presented so tempting an appearance that it was
impossible to refrain from entering. This channel,
which soon proved to be the Lancaster Sound of Baf-
fin, was ascended for thirty miles ; during which run
officers and men .crowded the topmast, filled with
enthusiastic hope, and judging that it afforded much
fairer hopes of success than any of those so hastily
passed. Captain Ross however, and those whom
he consulted, never showed those sanguine expecta-
tions. He soon thought that he discovered a high
lidge stretching directly across the inlet i and though

m

20S

RBCKNT NORTH-WEST TOTAOII.

8 great part of it was deeply involved in mist, yet
a passage in this direction was judi^ed to be hope-
less. The sea beinjif open, however, the commander
proceeded ; but about twelve o'clock Mr. Beverley,
the assistant-surgeon, came down from the crow's
nest, stating, that he had seen the land stretching
venr nearly across the entire bay. Hereupon, it is
said, all hopes were renounced, even by the most
sanguine, and Captain Ross sailed onward merely for
the purpose of making some magnetical observa-
tions.

At three o'clock, the sky having cleared, the
commander himself went on deck, when he states
that he distinctly saw across the bottom of the bay
a chain of mountains continuous and connected
with those which formed its opposite shores. The
weather then becoming unsettled, he made the sig-
nal to steer the vessels out of Lancaster Sound,
lieutenant Parry, however, declares that to him, in
the Isabella, this signal appeared altogether myste-
rious, being himself full of the most sanguine ex-
pectations, and seeing no ground whatever for
this abrupt retreat; but his duty obliged him to
follow.

On regaining the entrance of this great channel.
Captain Ross continued to steer southward along the
western shore of Baffin's Bay and Davis's Strait, with-
out seeing any entrance which afforded equal pro-
mise. Cumberland Strait alone was similar in mag-
nitude; but it could lead only into the higher lati-
tudes of Hudson's Bay, and afforded thus little chance
of a free passage into the Arctic sea. After survey
ing,' therefore, some of these shores, he returned
home early in October,

The Captain arrived in England under the most
decided conviction, that Baffin's observations had
been perfectly correct, and that Lannacter Sound
waa a bay, affording no entrance into any western
•ea. If even any strait existed between Uie moun*

riMih

' TOTAflSS.

ivolved in mist, yet
judged to be hope-
ver, the commanaer
dock Mr. Beverley,
wn from the crow's
the land stretchinj^
ly. Hereupon, it is
I, even by the most
d onward merely for
oagnetical observa-

laving* cleared, the
!ck, when he states
bottom of the bay
>us and connected
osite shores. Tho
1, he made the sig-
f Lancaster Sound,
ares that to him, in
1 altogether myste*
most sanguine ex-
•und whatever for
ity obliged him to

this great channel,
muthward along the
Davis's Strait, with-
afforded equal pro-
Rras similar in mag-
nto the higher lati.
ed thus little chance
tea. After survey
hores, he returned

ind under the most
3 observations had
t Lancai>ter Sound
s into any western
wtween the moun*

Monrr nokth-west roTAiixa.

S09

tains, it must, he conceived, be for ever innavi-
gable on account of the ice with which it is filled.
The intelligeni individuals, however, who had fitted
out the expedition with such zeal and on so great
a scale, felt deep dissatisfaction both at this con-
clusion and at the premises from which it had been
drawn. The grounds, in particular, on which Lan-
caster Sound, an opening so noble and so spacious,
and ir a position so favourable in respect to west-
em discovery, had been so abruptly quitted, ap-
peared wholly inadmissible. The same opinion was
very decidedly espoused by several of the officers,
and especially by Lieutenant Parry, who was second
in command, but had never been consulted on the
occasion, and who declared the relinquishment of
all attempt at discovery at that crisis to be in his
eyes completely unaccomitable. It was determined
in short, that a fresh expedition should be equipped
and intrusted to Mr. Parry, that he might fulfil, if
possible^ his own sanguine hopes and those of his
employers. He was furnished with the Hecla of
375 tons, and a crew of fifty-eight men ; and with
the Griper gun-brig of 180 tons, and thirty-six men,
commanded by Lieutenant Liddon. These ships
were made as strong and as well-fitted as possible
for the navigation of the Arctic seas ; and were
stored with ample provisions for two years, a copious
supply of antiscorbutics, and every Uiing which
cotud enable the crews to endure the most extreme
rigours of a Polar winter.

Lieutenant Parry, destined to outstrip all his
predecessors in the career of Arctic discovery ,weigheA
anchor from the Nore on the 11th May (1819), anj
on the SOth rounded the most northerly pomt of
the Orkneys. He endeavoured to cross the Atlantic
about the parallel of 58°, and though impeded during
the first fortnight of June by a series of unfavourable
weather, obtained on the 15tli, from the distance
apparently of not less than forty leagues a view of

S3

«10

RSCENT KORTH-WCST VOTAOBt.

the lofty cliffs composing Cape Farewell. On the
18th the ships first fell in with icebergs, the air
being also tiUed with petrels, kittiwaJkes, tema,
and other winged inhabitants of the northern sky.
Parry now made an effort to push north and west,
through the icy masses, in the direction of Lan-
caster Sound ; but these suddenly closed upon him ;
and on the 25th the two ships '.vere so immove-
ably beset, that no power could turn their heads a
single point of the compass. The vessels remained
thus fixed, but safe, when, on the morning of the
second day, a heavy roll of the sea loosened the
ice, and drove its masses against them with such
violence that only their very strong construction
■aved them from severe injury. The discoverers
therefore were fain to extricate themselves as soon
as possible ; and, resigning the idea of reaching Lan-
caster Sound by the most direct route, began to
coast northward along the border of this great icy
field, till they should rind open water. In this pro-
gress they verified the observation of Davis, that in
the narrowest part of the great sea, misnamed his
Strait, the shores on each side could be discovered
at the same moment. Thus they proceeded, till
they reached the Women's Islands, and Hope San-
derson, in about latitude 73°. As every step was
now likely to carry them farther from their destina-
tion, Parry determined upon a desperate push to the
westward. Favoured with a moderate breeze, the
ships were run into the detached pieces and floes of
ice, through which they were heaved with hawsers;
but the obstacles became always heavier, till they
were completely beset, and a heavy fog coming on,
made thei.. little able to take advantage of any
favourable change. Yet in the course of a week,
though repeatedly and sometimes dangerously beset,
they warped their way from lane to lane of open
water, till only one lengthened floe separated them
from a wide open sea to the westward. Bylabo-

VOTAOM.

I Farewell. On the
I icebergs, the air
, kittiwakes, terns,
r the northern sky.
J8h north and west,

direction of Lan-
ly closed upon him ;

were bo immove-

tum their heads a
le vessels remained
the mominii? of the
) sea loosened the
i8t them with such
strong; construction
^ Trie discoverers
themselves as soon
lea of reaching Lan*
ct route, began to
er of this great icy
rater. In this pro-
an of Davis, that in

sea, misnamed his
!ould be discovered
hey proceeded, till
ids, and Hope San-

As every step was
' from their destina-
operate push to the
oderate breeze, the

pieces and floes of
;aved with hawsers;
jrs heavier, till "they
;avy fog coming on,

advantage of any
course of a week,
3 dangerously beset,
ne to lane of open
floe separated them
restwara. By labo-

RKCBNT NORTR-WXST V0TA0K8.

211

riously sawing through this obstruction, they were
nble to penetrate finally the great icy barrier, and saw
the western shore, clear of ice, extending before them.

The navigators now bore directly down upon Lan-
caster Sound, and on the 30th July found them-
selves at its entrance. They felt an extraordinary
emotion as they recognised this magnificent chan-
nel, with the lofty cliflfis by which it was guarded,
aware that a very short time would decide the fate
of their grand undertaking. They were tantalized,
however, by a fresh breeze coming directly 6ovfTi
the Sound, which suffered them to make only very
slow progress. There was no appearance, however,
of obstruction either from ice or land, and even the
heavy swell which came down the inlet, driving the
water repeatedly in at the stem-windows, was hailed
as an indication of open sea to the westward. The
Hecla loft the Griper behind, but still without maJc-
ing any great way herself till the 3d August, when
an easterly breeze sprung up, carrying both vessels
rapidly forward. A crowd of sail was set, and they
pushed triumphantly to the westward. Their minds
were filled with anxious hope and suspense. The
mast-heads were crowded with ofllcers and men,
and the successive reports brought down from the
topmast pinnacle, called the crow's nest, were eagerly
listened to. Their course was still unobstructed.
They passed various headlands, with several wide
openings towards the north and south, which they
hastily named Croker Bay, Navy Board Inlet, &c. ;
but these it was not their present object to explore.'
The wind, freshening more and more, carried tliero
happily forward, till at midnight they found them-
selves in longitude 83° IS*, nearly a hundred and
fifty miles from the mouth of the grand inlet, which
still retained a breadth of fifty miles. The success
of the expedition, they fondly hoped, was now to a
great extent decided.

The Hecla, at this time, slackened her course to

MMHIIIi

212

uoniT NOKTH''wa»r votasm.

aUow her companion to come up, which she did la'
longitude 85°. They together proceeded to lonri-
tude 86° W, and found two other inlets, which
they named Burnet and Stratton 5 then a bold cape
named Fellfoot, forming apparently the termination
of this long line of coast. The lengthened swell
which still rolled in from the north and west, with
the oceanic colour of the waters, inspired the flat-
tering hope that they had already passed the region
of straits and inlets, and were now wafted along the
wide expanse of the Polar basin. Notliing, in short,
it was hoped, would henceforth obstruct their pro-

Kess to Icy Cape, the western boundary of America.
» alarm of land was given, but it proved to arise
only from an island of no great extent. However,
more land was soon discovered beyond Cape Fell-
foot, which was ascertained to be the entrance to a
noble bav, extending on their right, which they named
Maxwell Bay. An uninterrupted range of sea still
stretched out before them, though tliey were some-
what discomposed by seeing on the south a line of
continuous ice ; but it left an open route before them,
and they hoped to And it merely a detached stream. A
uttle space onwards, however, they discovered, with
deep dismav, tiiis ice to be Joined to a compact and
impenetrable body of floes, which completely crossed
the channel, and joined the western point of Max-
well Bay. It behooved them, therefore, immediately
to draw back, to avoid being embayed in ice, along
ttie edges of which a violent surf was then beating.
The officers began to amuse themselves with fruitless
attempts to catch white whales, when the weather
cleared, and they saw to the south an open sea with
a aark water-sky. Pany, hoping that this might
Jead to a free passage in a lower latitude, steered
m this direction, and found himself at the mouth
of a great inlet, ten leagues broad, with no visible
termmation; and to the two cs^es at its entrance h«
gave the names of Clarence and Se^ungs

rOTAOM.

>, which she did in'
)rocee(led to loitfii-
)(her inlets, which
1 ; then a bold cape
tlythe termination
B lengthened swell
Jrth and west, with
8, inspired the flat-
y passed the region
w wafted along the
Nothing, in short,
obstruct their pro-
undary of America,
it proved to arise
extent. However,
bevond Cape Fell-
e the entrance to a
t, which they named
I range of sea still
rh they were some-
the south a line of
I route before them,
letaehed stream. A
By discovered, witli
1 to a compact and
completely crossed
tern point oi Max-
refore, immediately
ibayed in ice, along
' was then beating,
jelves with fruitless
when the weather
h an open sea with
ig that this might
3r latitude, steered
iself at the mouth
ad, with no visible
s at its entrance h«
Seppings

MeiNT NOITH-WXST VOTAOta.

313

The mariners, finding the western shore of this inlet
deeply cnnumbered with ice, moved across to the
eastern, where they found a broad and open chan*
nel. The coast was the most dreary and desolate
they had ever beheld even in the Arctic world, pre-
senting scarcely a semblance either of animal or ve-
?:etable life. Navigation was rendered more arduous
rom the entire irregularity of the compass, now evi-
dently approaching to the magnetic Pole, an'd show-
ing an excess of variation which they vainly attempted
to measure, so that the bitmacles were laid aside
as useless lumber. They sailed a hundred and
twenty miles up this inlet, and its augmenting width
inspired them with corresponding hopes; when,
with extreme consternation, they suddenly perceived
the ice to diverge from its parallel course, running
close in with a point of land which appeared to
form the southern extremity of the eastern shore.
To this foreland they gave the name of Cape Kater.
The western horizon also appeared covered with
heavy and extensive floes, a bright and dazzling ice-
blink extending from shore to shore. The name of
the Prince Regent was given to this spacious inlet,
which Parry strongly suspected must nave a com-
munication with HufHon's Bay. He now determined
to return to the old station, and watch the op-
portunity when the relenting ice would allow the
ships to proceed westward. That station was
reached not without some dilBculty, amid ice and
fog. At Prince Leopold's Islands, on the tSfh, the
ice was as impenetraole as ever, with a bright blink,
and from the top of a high hill there was no water
to be seen ; luckily also there was no land. On the
18th, on getting once more close to the northern
shore, the navigators began to make a little way,
and some showers of rain and snow, accompanied
with heavy wind, produced such an effect, that on
the 3l3t the whole ice had disappeared, and they
could scarcely believe it to be the same sea which

214

RXCINT NORTII-WrsT voYAOl*.

had JiMt before been covered \* i ii floes upon floeau
far M the eye could re^ch.

Mr. Parry now crowdeU all raU to the westward,
and, thoufrh detained by want of wind, he paued
Radatock Bay, Capei Hurd and Hothani, and Deechy
Island { after whirh he reached a fine and broad inlet
leadujg to the north, to which ho assifmed Welling-
ton, the neatest name of the age. 'I'he Hoa up this
inlet Being perfectly open, he would not have hesi-
tated to ascend it, had there not been before him,
along the south coast of an island named Comwal-
118, an open channel, leading in a direction, which,
Being due west, he could have no hesitation in pre-
femng. Wellington Inlet was now considered by
the navigators, so high were their hopes, as forming
the western boundary of the land stretching from
Baffin s Bay to the Polar Sea, into which they had
lltUe doubt they were entering. For this reason Cap-
lain Farnr did not hesitate to give to the great chan-
nel wluch had effected so desirable a jimction the
merited appellationof Barrow's Sirail, after the much-
esteemed promoter of the expedition. A favourable
breeze now sprung un, and the adventurers passed
rayly and triumphantly along the extensive shore of
CoiTiwalUs Island, then coasted a larger island named
Bathurst, and next a smaller one called Byam Mar-
tin. At this last place, they judged, by some expe-
nments, that they had passed the magnetic meridian,
situated, probably, in about 100 degrees west longi-
tude, and where the compass would have pointed due
•ouUi instead of due north. The navigation now be-
came extremely difficult, in consequence of thick
fogs, which not only froze on the shiouds, but, as the
compass vna also useless, took away all means of
knowmg the direction m which they sailed. Thev
were obliged to trust to the land and ice preserving
the same line, and sometimes employed the most odd
expedients for ascertaining the precise point. They
encountered also a compact floe of ice. through

VOYAOia.

I floes upon floei u

lail to the westward,
uf wind, he passed
Fiothuni, and Ueechy
1 fine and brnad inlet

asRi^d Wellinff-
ge. 'lliB Hea up this
vould not have heai-
lot been before liim,
nd named Comwal-

a direction, which,
10 hesitation in pre-
now considered by
ir hopes, as forming
ind stretching from
into which they had
For this reason Cap-
re to the great chan>
rable a Junction the
irail, after the much-
ition. A favourable
adventurers passed

0 extensive shore of
'larger island named
e called Byam Mar-
jged, by some expe-
! magnetic meridian,
degrees west longi-
iild nave pointed due

1 navigation now be-
nsequence of Uiiclc
' shrouds, but, as the

away all means of
they sailed. They
I and ice preserving
ploved the most odd
teclse point. They
oe of icoi througb

UOBNT NOKTH-WtST TOTAOIt.

ais

yhich thev were obliged to bore their way by main
force. Through all these obstacles they reached the
ooast of an island larger than any before di»^overed,
to which they gave the name of Melvill»;. The wind
now failed, and they slowly moved forward by tow-
ing and warping, till, on the 4th Sentember, Mr. Parry
could announce to his Joyful crew, that, having reached
the longitude of lioo W. they were become entitled
to the reward of £5000, nromiscd by Parliament to
the first crew who should attain that meridian. The
mariners pushed forward with redoubled ardour, but
Boon fonnd their course arrested by an impenetrable
icy barrier. ITiey waited nearly a fortnight in hopes
of overcoming it; till about the SOth tlieir situation
became alarming. The young ice began rapidly to
form on the surface of the waters, retarded only by
winds and swells ; so that Captain Parry was con-
vinced, in the event of a single hour's calm, that he
would be frozen up in the midat of the sea. No op-
tion was therefore left but to return, and to choose
between two apparently good harbours, which had
been recently passed on Melville Tsland. Not with-
out difficulty he reached this place by the 34th, and
made choice of the most western harbour, as that
alone which aflbrded full security ; but it was neces-
sary to cut two miles through a large floe with which
it was fllled. To efToct this arduous operation, the
seamen marked with boarding-pikeo two parallel
lines, at the distance of somewnat more than the
breadth of the larger ship. They sawed along
these two lines, and then by cross-sawinga detached
larae pieces, which were separated diagonally m
order to be floated out ; and sometimes boat sails
were fastened to them to take the advantage of a
favourable breeze. On the 86th the ships were es-
tablished in five fathoms water, «f about a cable's
length from the beach. For some time the ice was
daily cleared round them; but this was soon found

W^in^'"

216

RSOKNT NORTH-WIST VOTAOBe.

m

1

an endless and useless labour, and they were allowed
to be regularly fro'">ii in for the winter.

Mr. Parry then applied himself to name the ex-
tended group of large islands along which he had
passed. He called them at first New-Georgia; but,
recollecting that this appellation had been pre-occu-
pied by a large island in the Pacific, he gave the
name of « the North Georgian Islands," after hig
majesty George III., whose reign had been so emi-
nently distinguished by the extension of nautical
and geographical knowledge.

The commander, finding himself and his ships
shut in for a long and drcaiy winter, devoted his at-
tention, with judicious activity, and a mixture of
firmness and kindness, to mitigate those evils, which,
even in lower latitudes, had often rendered an Arctic
wintering so fatal. His provisions being very ample,
he allowed the sailors weekly a pound of Donkin's
preserved meat, and a pint of concentrated soup, in*
stead of a pound of salt beef; beer and wine were
served instead of spirits; and a certain allowance
was made of sour-krout, pickles, and vinegar. The
sailors were also called together daily, and made to
swallow a quantity of lime-juice and sugar in' pre*
sence of the officers, their improvidence being such
aa to afford otherwise no hope of their spontaneously
imbibing this salutary draught. Their gums and
shins were also regularly examined, in order to detect
scurvy in its earliest symptoms. It was necessary
to be very economical of fuel, the small quantity of
moss and turf which could be collected bemg too wet
to be of any use. By placing the apparatus for bak-
ing in a central position, and by several other arrangc-
raents, the cabin was maintained in a very comforta-
k)le temperature ; but still, around its extremities and
in the bed-places,«teain, vapour, and even the breath
settled, first as moisture and then as ice ; to dry and
remove these annoyances became therefore a part ot
theii daily employment.

mtm

MM

■'irk:tsJ^7^-i)S'Ati»i^.i»ii^^ ....

■ •■ "liWMsSijia. .

VOTAOBe.

id they were allowed
winter.

elf to name the ex-
alonj^ which he had
New-Georgia; but,
1 had been pre-occu-
Pacific, he gave the
I Islands," after his
fn had been so emi-
[tension of nautical

nself and his ships
inter, devoted his at-
', and a mixture of
te those evils, which,
n rendered an Arctic
(ns being very ample,
a pound of Donkin's
oncentrated soup, in«
beer and wine were
a certain allowance
8, and vinegar. The
;r daily, and made to
ce and sugar in' pre*
rovidence being such
f their spontaneously
i. Their gums and
led, in order to detect
8. It was necessary
:he small quantity of
llected bemg too wet
le apparatus for bak-
leveral other arrange-
1 in a very comforta-
id its extremities and
, and even th^ breath
m as ice ; to dry and
ne therefore a part of

RECENT NORTH-WEST TOTAOES.

217

Mr. Parry was, from the first, aware that nothing
acted more strongly aa an antiscorbutic, than to keep
the men's minds in a lively and cheerful state. His
plans for this purpose were very original, and proved
very effectual. Arrangements were made for the oc-
casional performance of a play, in a region very re-
mote certainly from any to which the drama appeared
congenial. Lieutenant Beechy was nominated stage-
manager, and the officers came fonvard as amateur
performers. The very expectation thus raised among
the seamen, and the bustle of preparing a room for
the purpose, were extremely salutary; and when the
North Georgian theatre opened with " Miss in hei
Teens," these hardy tars were convulsed with laugh-
ter, not a little excited, perhaps, by viewing their
officers in so singular and novel a position ; at all
events the Arctic management was extremely
popular. As the small stock contained in one or
two chance volumes was exhausted, original com-
positions were produced, and afterward formed
into a little collection. The offiiers had another
source of amusement in the North Georgia Ga-
zette, of which Captain Sabine became editor, and
all were invited to contribute to this chronicle of
the frozen regions. Even those who hesitated to
appear as writers, enlivened the circle by severe but'
good-humoured criticisms.
«

_ Thui paaed the time,

Till, through the lucid ehamben of the aoutb,
Looked out the joyous Sun.

It was on the 4th November that this great orb
ought to have taken his leave ; but a deep haze pre-
vented them from bidding a formal farewell, and
from ascertaining the period down to which refrac-
tion would have rendered him visible ; yet he was
reported to be seen from the mast-head on the 11th.
Amid various occupations and amusements the
shortest day came on almost unexpected, and the sea-
T

iniiiiiiiiiiiiH^^

218

RECENT N0RTH-W4EBT TOTAGES

men then watched with pleasure the midday twi«
light gradually strengthening. On the 38th Janu-
ary none of the fixed stars could be seen at noon
by the naked eye ; and on the 1st and 3d of Fetwu-
ary the sun was looked for, but the sky was wrapped
in mist ; however, on the 3d he was perceived from
the maintop of the Hecla. Through the ^eatest
depth of the Polar night, the officers, duriu}^ the
brief twilight, had taken a regular walk of two or
three hours ; avoiding only to go farther than a mile,
lest they should be overtaken by snow-drift. There
was a want of objects to diversify this walk. A
dreary monotonous surface of dazzling white covered
land and sea : the view of the ships, the smoke as-
cending from them, the sound of hirnian voices,
which through the calm and cold air was carried to
an extraordinary distance, alone gave any animation
to this wintry scene. The officers, however, perse-
vered in their daily walk, and exercise was also en-
forced upon the men, who, even when prevented by
the weather from leaving the vessel, were made to
run round the deck, keeping time to the tune of an
organ. This movement they did not at first entirely
relish ; but no plea against it being admitted, they
converted it at last into matter of frolic.

By the above means health was maintained on
board the ships to a surprising degree. E vly in Ja-
nuary, however, Mr. Scallon, the gunner, felt
symptoms, flrst in the legs and then in the gums,
that decidedly indicated the presence of scurvy, of
which the immediate cause appeared to be the great
collection of damp which had formed round his bed-
place. At this first alarm, all the antiscorbutics on
board, lemon-juice, pickles, spruce-beer, &c. were
put into requisition ; a small quantity of mustard and
cress was also raised from mould placed over the
stove-pipe; and such was the success of these mea-
sures, that in nine days the patient coidd walk with-
out pain. Farther on in the season a number of

IT TOTAOES

sure the midday twi«
. On the 38th Jann-
ould be seen at noon
e 1st and 3d of Fetwu-
t the sky was wrajyped
le was perceived from
Through the p-eatest
e oflScers, during the
guiar walk of two or
go farther than a mile,
by snow-drift. There
t^ersiiy this walk. A
dazzling white covered
ships, the smoke as-
nd of human voices,
old air was carried to
ne gave any animation
fleers, however, perse-
exercise WBS also en-
3n when prevented by
vessel, were made to
ime to the tune of an
did not at first entirely
being admitted, they
r of frolic.

h was maintained on
degree. Early in Ja-
on, the gunner, felt
nd then in the gums,
)resence of scurvy, of
ipeared to be the great
formed round his bed-
the antiscorbutics on
ipruce-beer, &c. were
uantity of mustard and
lould traced over the
success of these mea-
itient coidd walk with-
season a number of

mOENT NORTH-WEST TOTAOKS.

210

slighter cases occurred, which were somewhat ag-
gravated by an accident. As the men were taking
their musical perambulation round the deck, a house
erected on ejiore, and contaising a number of the
most valuable instruments, was seen to be on fire.
The crew instantly ran, pulled off the roof with
ropes, knocked down a part of the sides, and being
thus enabled to throw in large quantities of snow,
succeeded in subduing the flames. Now, however,
their faces presented a curious spectacle, every nose
and cheek being white with frost-bites, while the me-
dical gentlemen, with their assistants, were obliged
to run from one to the other, and rub them with
snow, in order to restore animation. With one man
the amputation of several of his fingers became ne-
cessary, and no less than sixteen were added to the
sick-list.

The animal tribes disappeared early m the wmter
from this frozen region. The officers, on the I6th
October, made a shooting excursion, enjoying a very
fine day, though with the thermometer 47* below the
freezing point ; but they did not find a deer, a grouse,
or any animal which could be ranked as game. All
of them, deserting this wintry realm, had crossed
the seas to America. There remained only a pack
of wolves, which serenaded the crews nightly, not
venturing to attack, but contriving to avoid being
captured. A beautiful white fox was caught and
made a pet of. On the 18th May one of the men
gave notice that he had seen a ptarmigan ; and at-
tention being thus excited, Mr. Beverley next day
brought one down, and on the 15th three coveys
were discovered. The footsteps of deer weie also
seen, which, from the impression made on the snow,
seemed to be moving northward. From this time
ptarmigans were supplied in tolerable numbers ; but
they were made strictly a common good, being di-
vided equally among the crew, with only a preference
in favour of Uie sick There was found, also, mixed

230

RECINT KORTH-WBST VOTAaiS.

ft

with moss under the snow, an abundance of the
herb sorrel, a most potent antido'e against scurvy.
By these suppUes,and by the more genial weather, the
health of the crew, wl»ich at the end of March had
been in a somewhat alarming state, was completely
restored before the beginning of June. In extending
their excursions, however, they were considerably
incommoded by that distressing inflammation of the
/ eyes, produced from the glare of snow, called snow-
blindness. It was cured in a few days by cold appli-
cations, and it was prevented in future by covering
the eyes, or by wearing speciacles, in which crape
was used instead of glass.

On the 16th March the North Georgian theatre was
closed with an appropriate address, and the general
attention was now turned to the means of extrication
from the ice. By the 17th May the seamen had so
far cut the ice from around the ships as to allow them
to float ; but in the sea it was still immoveable. This
interval of painful inaction was employed by Cap-
tain Parry in an excursion across Melville Island.
The ground was still mostly covered with softened
snow, and even the cleared tracts were extremely de-
solate, though checkered byintervalsof fine verdure.
Deer were seen traversing the plains in considerable
numbers. To the north appeared another island, to
which was given the name of Sabine. Bv the mid-
dle of June pools were every where formed ; the dis-
solved water flowed in streams, and even in toiTents,
which rendered hunting and travelling unsafe. There
were also channels of water in which boats could
pass; yet throughout June and July the great cover-
mg of ice in the surrounding sea remained entire,
and kept the ships in harbour. On the 2d of August,
however, the whole mass, by one of Uiose sudden
movements to which it is liable, broke up and floated
out ; and the explorers had now open water in which
to prosecute their discovery. It was consolatory
to think, that this was the ver^ season at which they

r voVAais.

n abundance of the
lota against scurvy.
re genial weather, the
e end of March had
tate, was completely
June. In extending
Y were considerably
; inilammation of the
f snow, called snow-
w days by cold appli-
i future by covering
:les, in which crape

f eorgian theatre was
IBS, and the general
means of extrication
!>' the seamen had so
lips as to allow them
immoveable. This
I employed by Cap-
}ss Melville Island,
rered with softened
I were extremely de-
rvals of fine verdi 1 1 e.
ains in considerable
d another island, to
ibine. By the mid-
ere formed ; the dis-
ind even in torrents,
Uing unsafe. There
which boats could
uly the great cover-
la remained entire,
)u the 3d of August,
ne of those sudden
roke up and floated
ipen water in which
t was consolatory
sason at which they

SCCENT NORTn>WB8T TOTAOSB.

22!

had last year entered Lancaster Sound ; and if they
could make as brilliant a voyage this summer, the
following one would see them not far from Behring's
Straits. But it was not without some obstructions
that on the 4th they reached the same spot where
their progress had been formerly arrested. On the
16th they were enabled to make a certain progress;
after which the frozen surface of the ocean assumed
a more compact and impenetrable aspect than had
ever before been witnessed. The officers ascended
some of the lofty heights which bordered the coast ;
but, in a long reach of sea to the westward, no
boundary was seen to these icy barriers. There
appeared only the western extremity of Melville
Island, named Cape Dundas ; and in the distance a
bold high coast, which they named Banks's Land,
^sevena brisk easterly gale did not produce the
slightest movement in this frozen surface, they were
led to believe that on the other side there must be a
large barrier of land, by which it was held in a fixed
state. On considering all circumstances, there ap-
peared no alternative but to make their way home-
ward wliile yet the season permitted. Some addi-
tional observations were made on their return, on
the two coasts extending along Barrow's Strait.

Mr. Parry's arrival in Britain was. hailed with the
highest exultation. To have sailed upwards of thirty
degrees of longitude beyond the point reached by
any former navigator, — to have discovered so many
new lands, islands, and bays, — to have established
the much-contested existence of a Polar sea north
of America, — finally, after a wintering of eleven
months, to have brought back his crew in a sound
and vigorous state,* — were enough to raise his name
above that of any former Arctic voyager.

* Only one man died in the eouiw of their long and peiilona voyage,
but wboie diseiM wai no way referrible to a connexion with the exp*.
dliinn, the origin of bli malady having been of a date antefior to UN
MiUngof Uwibipa.

T8

RECENT NORTH-WEST TUTAQIS.

No hesitation was felt as to sending out another
expedition ; but, considering the strength of the ulti-
mate barriers which had twice arrested the progress
of the last, it became important to consider whether
there was not any other channel by which the Polar
sea, now ascertamed to exist, might be reached and
traversed with greater facility. In Hudson's Bay,
neither of '.le great northern sounds of the Welcome
nor of Fox's Channel had been traced to a termina-
tion. Middleton, in the former inlet, had ascended
higher than any other navigator ; but a thick cloud
had been raised around his reputation, and his FVo-
zen Strait, after all, was very likely to be only a
temporary barrier. If from either of these sounds a
passage should open into the Polar sea, it might be
navirated in a much lower latitude than that in
which Parry had wintered, and might perhaps be
also free from those large insular masses in which
he had been entangled. There was fitted out then
a new expedition, in which the Fury, of 337 tons,
was conjoined with the Hecla ; the commander con-
ceiving that two vessels of nearly equal dimensions
were best calculated for co-operating with and aid-
ing each other, while the examination of coasts and
inlets could best be. carried on by boats. This of-
ficer, now promoted to the rank of Captain, hoisted
his flag on board the Fury ; while Captain Lyon,
already distinguished by his servi^res in Africa, re-
ceived the command of the Hecla, and proved him-
self fully competent to the arduous duties of this
new service. The equipment, the victualling, and
the heating of the vessels, were all arranged with
the greatest care, and with various improvements
suggested by experience.

The expedition was ready to sail on the 8th May,
1821, and having then quitted the Nore, passed
through the Pentland Frith and by Cape Farewell,
suffering repeated detention ; but we shall not pause
till we find it on the 2d July at the mouth of Hudson's

TUTAOta.

sending out another
I strength of the ulti-
irrested the progreas
to consider whether
I oy which the Polar
ight be reached and

In Hudson's Bay,
nds of the 'Welcome
traced to a termina-
inlet, had ascended

; but a thick cloud
itation, and his /Vo-
likely to be only a
er of these sounds a
)lar sea, it might be
titude than that in
1 might perhaps be
ar masses in which
was fitted out then
! Fury, of 327 tons,
the commander con-
ly equal dimensions
rating with and aid-
nation of coasts and
by boats. This of-

of Captain, hoisted
rhile Captain Lyon,
rvu'.es in Africa, re-
;la, and proved him-
luous duties of this
the victualling, and
! all arranged with
rious improvements

sail on the 8th May,

the Nore, passed
I by Cape Farewell,
t we shall not pause
s mouth of Hudson's

RECENT NORTH-WEST TOTAQEfl.

228

Straits. Captain Parry, accustomed as he was to
scenes of Polar desolation, was struck with the pe-
culiarly dreary aspect which these shores presented.
The naked rocks, the snow still covering the valleys,
and the thick fogs that hung over them, rendered
the scene indescribably gloomy. The ships were
soon surrounded by ii-ebergs, which in one place
amounted to the numi/cr of fifty-four, — one rising
258 feet above the sea. They were attended by
large floes, rendered very fornudable by iieir rota-
tory motion. The peculiar danger of lliese straits,
often remarked by former navigators, arises from the
strong tides and currents • that rush in from the
AtlanUc, and cause continual and violent move-
ments among the huge icy masses with which the
channels are filled. Captain Lyon had proof of their
strength when he had two hawsers repeatedly car-
ried away, and his best bower-anchor, weighing more
than a ton, wrenched from the bows, and broken off as
if it had been crockery-ware. Amid these troubles,
the sailors were amused by the sight of three com-
panion-sliips, two belonging to the Hudson's Bay
Company, and one bringing out settlers for Lord
Selkirk's colony. These last, who were chiefly
Dutch and Germans, were seen waltzing on deck
often for hours together, and were only driven in bj
a severe fall of snow. Although almost m despair
at the numerous detentions they had experienced,
they recreated themselves from time to time by ma-
trimonial arrangements, in which they were so dili-
gent, that, it is said, there was scarcely a ball which
did not end in a marriage.

Amid these obstructions, the ships spent nineteen
days in making seventy miles ; which course, how-
ever, brought them, on the 21st, within two leagues
of what are called the Savage Islands. On the follow-
ing afternoon a loud shouting was heard over the ice
and soon after there appeared a numerous band of
natives, paddling their canoes through the lanes of

"224

SlOlirr N0RTn-WE8T VOTAOia.

open water, or, where theie failed, drawing: t^em
over the pieces of ice. Among a great number of
kayaki, or boats roAred by a single man (see plate,
p. 164), were five oomiakt, or women's boats, con-

structed of a framework of wood and whalebone,
covered with deer-skins, having flat sides and bot-
tom, and of considerable size. One of them, 85 feet
by 8, contained women, boys, and children, to the
number of twenty-one. Presently began a wild,
merry, noisy scene of frolic and traffic. The natives
carried it on with eagerness and even fury, stripping
themselves of the very skins which formed their
only covering, till they were in a state of total nu-
dity, except that the ladies always made a laudable
reservation of their breeches. They drove what
they meant should be an excessively hard bargain
yet, being wholly ignorant of the value of the rich
skins with which nature has invested the animals
of this Arctic climate, they raised shouts of triumph
when they obtained in exchange a nail, a saw, or a
razor. Their aspect was wilder and more dishevelled
than that of any other tribe even amcing this rude
race ; their character also seems fiercer and more sa-
vage ; and indeed it is in this quarter that most of the
tiagical encounters with Esquimaux have occurred.
Some of the ancient dames were pronounced to be the

t^w^

BT VOVAOtt.

' failed, drawingf them
)ng a great number of
single man (see plate,
t women's boats, con-

vood and whalebone,
ng flat sides and bet-
One of them, 26 feet
, and children, to the
isently began a wild,
d traffic. The natives
id even fury, stripping
I which formed their
n a state of total nu-
ways made a laudable
They drove what
jssively hard bargain
the value of the rich
invested the animals
sed shouts of triumph
ge a nail, a saw, or a
' and more dishevelled
ven amdng this rude
IS fiercer and more sa-
arter that most of the
imaux have occurred.
; pronounced to be the

RECEirr NORTH-WEST VOYAGES.

2£j

most hideous objects that mortal eye had ever be-
held ; inflamed eyes, wrinkled skin, black teeth, and
deformed features, rendered them scarcely Imman:
hence much apology was found for the dark and
dire suspicions cherished by Frobisher's crew re-
specting one of these damsels, and the odd investi-
gation to which it had prompted. The children
were rather pretty; though, from being thrown
carelessly into the bottom of tho boats, they had
much the appearance of tlie young of wild animals.
Besides traffic, the natives carried on a great deal of
rather rude frolic, like that of ill-regulated school-
boys. One of them got behind a sailor, shouted
loudly in one ear, and gave him a hearty box en the
other, which was hailed with a loud and general
laugh. They also carried on a dance, consisting
chiefly of violent leaping and stamping, though in
tolerable time.

In spite of every obstruction. Captain Parry, early
in August, reached the entrance of Fox's Channel,
and came in view of Southampton Island. It was
now the question, whether to fail directly up this
chaimel, and reach, by a comparatively short route.
Repulse Bay and the higher latitudes, or to make
the south-western circuit of Southampton Island,
and ascend the beaten track of the Welcome.
Captain Parry judiciously preferred the former, not-
withstanding its uncertainties, on account of the
great time which would be saved should this course
be found practicable. On the 15th he came to a
strait stretching westward , and apparently separating
the island from other land on the north. Hoping to
find this the Frozen Strait of Middleton, he entered
it ; but it soon proved a spacious and beautiful basin,
enclosed by land on every side. He named it the
Duke of York's Bay, and considered it one of the
finest harbours in the world ; but, after admiring a
large floe covered entirely with minerals, shells, and
plants, he moved out of it, and pursued the voyage.

RKCKNT NOntn-WEHT VOTAOVt.

On tho 2lHt the navijrators found themselves in
another str»it, not much encumbered with ice, but
dnrltenect by thick fogs ; and, before they almost
knew where they were, a heavy swell fVom the
southward showed that they had passed throuirli the
Frozen Strait, and were in tlie broad channel of
the Welcome. They speedily entered Repulse Bay,
in which modern speculation had cherished the
hope of a passage ; but a short investigation, made
by boats in every direction, proved that it was really
M Middleton had described it, completely enclosed.
A good deal of time had thus been lost through the
skepticism so unjustly attached to the narrative of
that eminent navigator.

Captain Parry, having come with all speed out of
Repulse Bay, began the career of discovery along a
coast hitherto unknown. An inlet was soon found,
and called by the name of Gore ; but when ascended
a certain length, it was not found to reach far inland.
At the mouth of this opening, the valleys were richly
clad with grass and moss, the birds singmg, butterflies
and other insects displaying the most gaudy tints, so
that the sailors might n.-. re fancied themselves in some
happier climate, had noi the mighty piles of ice in
the Frozen Strait told a different tale. Hunting par-
ties traversed the country in various directions, and
the game-laws of the preceding year were strictly
re-enacted, by which every beast or bird slain was to
be employed for the general good, allowing only the
head and legs as a dmtceur to the captor. The latter
however, adopted and made good a theonr, agreeablv
to which the description, hecM, was greatly extended,
so as to include even several joints of the back-bone.

Having passed Gore Inlet, the expedition found
itself among those numerous isles described by Mid-
dleton, which formed a complete labyrinth of various
shapes and sizes, while strong currents setting
between them in various directions, amid fogs and
drifting ice, rendered the navigation truly perilous.

ita

mind themselves in
nbrred with ice, but

before they almost
nvy swell from the
d pnflscd throufrli the
lie broad channel of
sntered Repulse Bay,

had cherished the
: investii^atiun, made
veA that it was rcallv
nompletely enclosedf.
}een lost through the
id to the narrative of

with all speed out of
of discovery along a
nlet was soon found,
;; but when ascended
td to reach far inland,
le valleys were richly
ds sin^in);, butterflies
! most (faudy tints, so
;d themselves in some
liprhty piles of ice in
It tale. Hunting par-
nous directions, and
r\g year were strictly
St or bird slain was to
od, allowing only the
e captor. The latter
»d a theory, agreeablv
was greatly extended,
ints of the back-bone,
he expedition found
lies described by Mid-
e labyrinth of various
mg currents setting
tions, amid fogs and
[ation truly perilous.

RECENT NORTIl-WRST VOYAGES.

287

The Fury was assailed by successive masses rushing
out from an inlt-t; her un(;hor was dragged along the
rocks with a grinding noise, and on being drawn up,
the two flukes were fdund to Iw broken off. The same
vessel was afterward carried along by a violent vwt-
rent, amid thick mist, without there being any means
of guiding or altering its direction ; so that Captain
Parry conriidcrs it alu»getli»r providcnUal that who
was not (lashed to pit^ccH against the surrounding
rocks. However, one channel, and one only, was
found, by which the mariners at Iat<t made their way
through this perilous maze. No sooner had they
reached the open sea, than, being obliged to run before
a strong northerly breeze, they were much dis-
heartened to find themselves, on tlie 3d of September,
at the very point which they had left the preceding
6th of August. All the interval had been employed
in the mere negative discovery, that there was nothing
to discover.

Captain Parry soon reached the northern coastf
and resumed his task, which was rendered very
tedious by the necessity of examining every opening
and channel, in the hope that ea(;h might prove the
desired passage into the Polar ocean. He first ex-
plored a large inlet, the name of which he gave to
Captain Ijyon, then a smaller one, which was named
from Lieutenant Hoppner ; and, by connecting these
with Gore Inlet, he completed his delineation of the
coast. The seamen had then the pleasure of opening
a traffic with a party of Esquimaux, whose first
timidity was soon overcome by the hope of being
supplied with some iron tools. In the course of this
transaction, the surprise of the crew was roused by
the conduct of a lady, who had sold one boot, but
obstinately retained the other in disregard of the
strongest remonstrances ab to the ridiculous figure
she in consequence made. At length, suspicion rose
to such a pitch, that, all coiirtc sy being set aside, hei
person was laid hold of, and the boot pulled off.
Then indeed it proved a complete deiHisitury of stolen

338

miCINT NORTH'WVBT VOTAttM.

tronaurc, since no lens tluin two spiponH and a p<)wtcr
plate were found within tliis napucrioti* receptacle.

The end of Srptembrr now approiichcd, and Cap-
tain Parry found hiinscif Hiuldenly in the depth of
winter. Snow had been falling during the whole of
the short aummer ; l»ut the united warmth of the air
and earth had melted it as it fell, and left the ground
still open to the sun's rave In one moment, as it
were, the snow made gooA its lodgment, and spread
its white and dazzling mantle over land and sea.
The rays being then no longer able to reach the soil,
the whole became subject to permanent and impene-
trable frost. Some parts of the snow were indeed
dissolved, and then refrozen in varied and l)eautiful
forms of crystallization; whereas at Melville Island,
the dead white covering once spread over nature had
never changed its aspect. A more serious symptom
existed in the rapid formation of the soft or pancake
ice on the surface of the dee]). The obstacle pre-
sented by this crust was at first so slight as to bo
Bcarcfely felt by a ship before a favouring gale ; but
it continually inc'iased, till the vessel, rolling from
side to side, and u.l her resources failing, became, like
Gulliver, bound by the feeble hands of Lilliputians.
At the same time the various pieces of drift-ice,
which were tossing in the sea without, had been ce-
mented into one great field called " the ice," that
threatened every moment to bear down upon the ves-
sels, and dash them in pieces. Under this combi-
nation of circumstances, the navigators could no
longer even attempt to reach the land, but determined
to saw into the heart of a large adjoining floe, and
there take up their winter-quarters. There was about
half a mile to penetrate, which, in the present soft
state of the pancake ice, was not very laborious. It
was, however, far from pleasant, the ice bending like
leather beneath their feet, and causing them some-
times to sink into the water, whence they did not
escape without a very cold bath.
• Captain Parry was now frozen up for another wintwr

T VOTAftia.

0 spoons and a pewter
ipiicioti* receptacle,
approiichod, and Cap-
It'iily in tho dcptli of
K during the whole of
tnd warmth of the air
ill, and left the ground
In one moment, as it
lodffincnt, and npread
? over land and sea.

nhle to reach the soil,
jmianent and impene-
le snow were indeed

1 varied and l)eautiful
308 at Melville Island,
ipread over nature had
norc serious symptom
jf the soft or pancake
. The obstacle pre-
st so slight as to be
I favoining gale; but
le vessel, rolling from
!s failing, became, like
lands of Lilliputians.
IS pieces of drift-ice,
without, had been ce-
alled " the ice," that
ar down upon the ves-

Under this combi-
navigators could no
I land, but determined
:e adjoining floe, and
;rs. There was about
1, in the present soft
ot very laborious. It
t, the ice bending like
causing them some-
whence they did not
h.
I up for another wintw

KIOBirr NORTH-WIST TOTAOI0.

S20

In the midst of the northern sea, and lie forthwith
ap|>liud hiniMclf tu make the necessary arraiigeinenta
with that Judi -ioua foresight which had been already
■o coiisnicuoui in the same trying circuiiiNtancci.
Througli lessuHH taught by experience, and by w vrd
ingenious cuiitrivances, the ship* were much . ore
thoroughly heated than in the former voyage; tlie
proviaiotiiiig, too, was more ample, and aiitidotet
agaiii8t scurvy still more copiouHly aupiilied. Tho
Polar tlieatre opened on the 'Jtri November with " The
Rivals." Captains Parry and Lyon volunteered tu
appear as Sir Anfhony and Captain Absolute; while
the ladies had very goiierouHJy removed an ample
growth of beard, disregarding tile comfortable warmth
which it afl"()nljd in an Arctic climate. The com-
piny were well received, and carried through »lieir
pcriormano(!s with unabated spirit ; yet this season
docs not seem to have gone off quite with tho same
eclat as the precedin;, Novelty, from the first the
chief attraction, had \ .n ofT, and the discomfort of
a stage, tiie exhibitions of which were attended with
a cold thirty degrees undur the freezing jwint, became
rather severe. The sailors found for themselves a
more sober and useful, as well as elBcaci jus remedy
against ennui. They established a school, in which
the better instructed undertook to revive the know-
ledge of letters among oUiers who had almost en-
tirely lost the slight tincture whidi they had once
imbibed. These hardy tari applied themselves to
their book with ardent and laudable zeal, and showed
a pride in their iv^w attainments like that of little
boys at school. By Christmas sixteen well-writt«n
copies were forthcoming from those who, two
months before, could scarcely forn. a letter. Amid
these varied and pleasing occupations, the shortest
day passt^d over their heads almost unobserved,
especially as the sun never entirely left them. Cap-
tain Lyon never saw a merrier Christmas than was
celebrated on board. The sailors, being amply le-
U

230

RECENT NORTH-WEST TOVAOES.

galed with fresh beef, cranberry pies, and grog',
became so extremely elevated, that they insisted on
successively drinking, with three hearty cheers, the
health of each officer.

The animal world, in this less rigorous climate,
even though the ground was completely frozen over,
did not disappear so entirely as on Melville Island.
A few solitary hares were caught ; but they were in
a miserable state of leanness, weighing only five or
six pounds, and had a pure white covering, which
resembled swan's down rather than hair. About a
hundred white foxes were foimd in the nets during
the winter. These beautiful creatures, when first
caught, were perfectly wild and ungovernable ;
but shortly the young ones at least threw off this
timidity. A delicate little animal found one day
in the snare proved to be an ermine; but it was
excessively frightened, and to the general regret
soon died.

The winter months were also enlivened by various
beautiful appearances which the sky at that season
presented. The northern world, when the sun de-
parts, is by no means involved in that deep, mono-
tonous gloom which such a privation might indicate.
After that luminary has finally quitted the earth, and
the long northern winter has closed in, the heavens
become a gay scene, through which the most brilliant
meteors are perpetually playing. Those singular
and beautiful streams of light, called commonly the
Aurora Borealis, or Northern Morning, keep up an
almost incessant illumination. They were discerned
in full splendour by Captains Parry and Lyon during
their Arctic residence. The light had a tendency to
form an irregular arch, which, in calm weather, was
often very distinct, though its upper boundary was
seldom well defined ; but, whenever the air became
agitated, showers of rays spread in every direction,
with the brilliancy and rapidity of lightnmg. Some-
times lung bands of light were spread out with

T TOVAOES.

erry pies, and grog',
that they insisted on
ee hearty cheers, the

ess rigorous climate,
•mpletely frozen over,
ELS on Melville Island,
fht ; but they were in
weighing only five or
vhite covering, which
r than hair. About a
id in the nets during
creatures, when first
and ungovernable ;
: least threw off this
limal found one day
n ermine ; but it was
) the general regret

» enlivened by various
lie sky at that season
Id, when the sun de-
in that deep, mono-
/^ation might indicate,
quitted the earth, and
closed in, the heavens
lich the most brilliant
ng. Those singular
called commonly the
Morning, keep up an
They were discerned
arry and Lyon during
ght had a tendency to
in calm weather, was
upper boundary was
lever the air became
ad in every direction,
of lightning. Some-
ere spread out with

RSCSNT NORTH-WEST V0TA0E8.

231

Inconceivable rapidity, but always appeanng to move
to and from a fixed point, somewhat like a riband
held in the hand and shaken with an undulatonr
motion. No rule, however, could be traced m the
movement of those lighter parcels called "the merry
dancers," which flew about perpetually m every
direction and towards, every quarter. In stormy
weather the northern lights always became more
rapid in their motions, sharing aU the wildness of
the blast. They gave an indescribable air of magic
to the whole scene, and made it not wonderful, that
by the untaught Indian they should be viewed as
"the spirits of his fathers roaming tlurough the land

of souls." . , -.1. .

Several questions have been agitated with respect
to the Aurora. It has been said to be accompanied
with a hissing and cracking noise ; and indeed Cap-
tain Lyon observes, that the sudden glare and rapid
bursts of those wondrous showers of fire make it
difficult to fancy their movements wholly without
sound. ¥«?! nothing was really ever heard. Captain
Parry complains, that he could not expose his e^s
to the cold long enough completely to ascertain the
point: but Captain Lyon declares, that he stood for
hours on the ice listening, and at a distance from
every sounding body, till he became thoroughly satis-
fied that none proceeded from the Aurora. It has
been a question whether this meteor hid the stars ;
it was generally decided that it dimmed the lustre of
those heavenly bodies, as if a thin gauze veU ha
been drawn over them,— an effect which was aug-
mented when several luminous portions were spread
over each other. In a clear atmosphere these lights
shone with a brightness which gave the impression
that they were nearer than the clouds : but wheneva
these last overspread the sky, the Aurora was tut
by them, and must therefore have been more distant
To Captain Parry the light appeared to assume tints
of yellow and lilac ; but to Captain Lyon its colour

333

RBCBNT NORTRATZST TOTAOEB.

always resembled that of the Milky-Way, or of very
Yivid sheet-lightning. The present writer saw tho
•aurora once, and only once, m its utmost brilliancy,
and exhibitmg all the phenomena described by these
northern observers,— his impressions agreeing parti
cularly with those of Captain Lyon.

Other luminous meteors, vising apparently from
the refraction caused by the minute and highly-crys-
talhzed spiculae of ice, appear in succession to em-
bellish the northern sky. The sun and moon are
olten surrounded with halos,— concentric circles of
vapour, tmted with the brightest hues of the rain-
• Y* 1. ^*''^^''^' <"■ ™ock suns, frequently adorned
With these accompaniments, shine at once in diflFerent
quarters of the firmament. EUis, who was with
Moor and Smith to Hudson's Bay, has seen six in
one sky. They are most brilliant at daybreak, dlmi-
nish in lustre a- the real sun ascends, but again
brighten at hi se, ig. The s«n himself, for some
time before he .:• -i ,- *rts for the winter, and also
after his reappear ,m spring, tinges the sky with
hues of match]. ^ • ^iiancy. The edges of the
Clouds near that iuminaiy often present a fiery or
burmshed appearance, while the opposite horizon
glows with adefip purple, gradually softening as it
ascends into a delicate rose-colour of inconceivable
beauty. As the solar orb at these periods never
rises more than a few degrees above the horizon, he
18, as It Avere, in a state of permanent rising and set-
ting, and seems to exhibit longer and more variously
the beautiful appearances arising out of that position.
At this time the naked eye can view him without
being dazzled; and Captain Lyon considers the
softened blush-colour, which his rays exhibit through
frost, as possessing a charm which surpasses even
that of an Italian sky.

Amid all these resources, the monotony of the
scene was begimiing to.be oppressive, when it was
relieved by an unexpected incident, which attracted

r TOTAOES.

Hilky-Way, or of very
esent writer sjiw tlw

its utmost brilliancy,
na described by these
ssions agreeing parti
jyon.

sing apparently from
mile and highly-crys-
n succession to em-
e sun and moon are
-concentric circles of
St hues of the rain-
, frequently adorned
le at once in different
Illis, who was with
Bay, has seen six in
nt at daybreak, dlmi-
I ascends, but again
njn himself, for some
r the winter, imd also
, tinges the sky with

The edges of the
n present a fiery or
lie opposite horizon
lally softening as it
)ur of inconceivable
these periods never
bove the horizon, he
inent rising and set-

and more variously
out of that position,
n view him without
.yon considers the
rajrs exhibit through
lich surpasses even

J monotony of the
ssive, when it was
iut, which attracted

RECBNT NORTH-WEST V0TA0X9.

283

univereal attention. On the morning of the let
February, a number of distant figures were seen
moving over the ice, and, when they were viewed
through glasses, the cry was raised, " Esquimaux !
Esquimaux !" As it was of great importance to deal
courteously and discreetly with these strangers, the
two commanders formed a party of six, who walked
in files behind each other, that they might cause no
alarm. The Esquimaux then formed themselves
into a line of twenty-one, advanced slowly, and at
length made a full stop. In this order they saluted
the strangers by the usual movement of beating their
breasts. They were substantially clothed in rich
and dark deer-skins, and appeared a much more quiet
and orderly race than their rude countrymen of the
Savage Islands. On the English producing their
precious commodities, knives, nails, and needles, an
active traffic was set on foot ; and the females, on
seeing that much importance was attached to the
skins which formed their clothing, began immediately
to strip off" those with which their fair persons were
covered. The captains felt alarm for the conse-
quences, under a temperature more than fifty degrees
below the freezing point; but were soon consoled
by discerning underneath another comfortable suit.
They were now cordially invited to enter their habita-
tions, to which they agreed most readily, only that
there appeared no habitations to enter. However,
they were led to a hole in the snow, and instructed
to place themselves on their hands and knees, in
which position, having crept through a long winding
passage, they arrived at a little hall with a dome-
shaped roof, whence doors opened into three apart-
ments, each occupied by a separate family. These
proved to be five distinct mansions, tenanted by
sixty-four men, women, and children. The mate-
rials and structure of these abodes were still more
singular than their position. Snow, the chief pro-
duct of the northern tempests, became here a pro-
IJ 8

884

UOKNT KOttTH-WCST VOTAOSS.

tection against its OMm cold. It was formed into
curved slabs of about two feet long and hdlf a R^t
thick, put together by a most judicious masonfy, so
as to present a species of doine-«haped structures,
rising six or seven feet above the ground, and about
fourteen or sixteen feet in diameter. The mode of
inserting the key-slab, which bound the whole toge-
.ther, would, it is said, have been satisfactory to the
eye of a regularly-bred artist. A plate of ice in the
roof served as a window, and admitted the light as
through ground glass ; which, when it shone on the
interior mansions, in their first state of pure and
beautiful trauspiirency, produced soft and glittering
tints of green and blue. But, alas ! ere long, accu-
mulated dirt, smoke, and offal, converted these apart-
ments into a scene of blackness and stench. This
little village appeared at first like a cluster of hillocks
amid the snow; but successive falls filled up the
vacuities, and converted it almost into a smooth sur-
face» so that even boys and dogs were seen walking
and sporting over the roofs ; though, as summer and
thaw advanced, a leg sometimes penetrated, and
appeared to the alarmed inmates below. Then, too,
the ceiling begins to drip ; and the tenants, after re-
peatedly endeavouring to patch it with fresh slabs,
and catching, of course, some severe colds, are obliged
to betake themselves to a more durable covering. In
eacn room, suspended fron\ the roof, burns a lamp,
with a long wick formed of a peculiar species of
moss, fed with the oil of the seal or the walrus, and
serving at once for light, heat, and cookery. The
family sit round the apartment, on a bench formed
of snow, strewed with slender twigs and covered
with skins ; but this part of the dwelling; must be
carefully kept a good deal below the freezing-point,
since a higher temperature would speedily dissolve
the walls of the frail tenement.

After a cheerful and friendly visit, an invitation
was given to the Esquimaux to repair to the ships*

[■ VOTAOBS.

It was fonned into
t long and h<df a luut
udicious masonry, so
ne-«haped stractoran,
he ground, and abont
neler. The mode of
ouiid the whole toge-
en satisfactory to the

A plate of ice in the
idmitted the light as
when it shone on the
It state of pure and
d soft and glittering
alas ! ere long, accu-
)nverted these apart-
is and stench. This
B a cluster of hillocks
ve falls filled up the
St into a smooth sur-
:s were seen walkina'
)ugh, as summer and
nes penetrated, and
8 below. Then, too,
the tenants, after re-
1 it with fresh slabs,
rere colds, are obliged
lurable covering. In
e roof, bums a lamp,
, peculiar species of
ai or the walrus, and
, and cookery. The
^ on a bench formed
' twigs and covered
le dwelling must be
w the freezing-point,
lid speedily Sssolve

' visit, an invitation
> repair to the shift,

j

KSCtm NORTH-WEST V0TA0E9.

235

when fifty accepted it with alacrity. Partly walk-
ine, and partly dancing, they soon reached the ves-
•els, where a striking congeniality of spirit was soon
found to exist between them and the sailors; bois-
terous fun forming to each the chief source of en-
joyment. A fiddle and drum being produced, the
nutivt . '• up a danc«, or rather a succession of
vehem> icaps, accompanied with loud shouts and
yells. Seeing the Kabloonas or Whites, as they
called the strangers, engaged in the game of leap-frog,
they attempted to join ; but not duly understanding
how to measure their movements, they made such
over-leaps as sometimes to pitch on the crown of their
heads : however they sprang up quite unconcerned.
Their attention was specially attracted to the effects
of a winch, by which one sailor forcibly drew to-
wards him a party of ten or twelve of their number,
though grinnmg and straining every nerve in resist-
ance ; but finding all in vain, they joined in the burst
of gcod-humoured laughter till tears streamed from
their eyes. One intelligent old man followed Cap-
fain Lyon to the cabin, and viewed with rational
surprise various objects which were presented. The
performance of a hand-organ and a musical snuff-box
struck him with breathless admii-ation ; and on see-
ing drawings of the Esquimaux in Hudson's Strait,
he soon understood them, and showed the difference
between their dress and appearance and that of his
own tribe. On seeing the sketch of a bear, he raised
a loud cry, drew up his sleeves, and showed the scars
of three deep wounds received in encounters with
that terrible animal. The seamen sought to treat
their visiters to such delicacies as their ship afforded,
but were for some time at a loss to discover how their
palate might be gratified. Grog, the seaman's
choicest luxury, only one old woman could be in-
duced to taste. Sugar, sweetmeats, gingerbread,
were accepted only out of complaisance, and eaten
«rith maaifest disgust} but train-oil, entrails of ani-

■ 'H^SS?^..

336

MCKNT IfOnTH-tfEBT VOTAOS«.

mals, and any tiling consisting of pure fat or greuei
were swallowed in immense quantities, ana with
symptoms of exquisite delight. This taste was first
evmced by an old woman, who, having sold her oil-
pot, took care previously to empty the content* into
her stomach, and lick it clean with her tongue, re-
gardless of her face becoming thus as black as soot.
Captain Lyon, being disposed to ingratiate himself
with rather a handsome young damsel, presented her
with a good moulded candle, six in the pound. She
immediately began to eat off the tallow with every
symptom of the greatest enjoyment, after which she
thrust the wick into her mouth; but the Captain,
concerned for the consequences to this delicate
virgin, insisted on pulling it out. In preference to
strong liquors they drank water in the most enor-
mous quantities, by gallons at a time, and two quarts
at a draught ; a supply of liquid which is perhaps ne-
cessary to dissolve their gross food, and which, being
obtained only from snow artificially mehed, is a scarce
winter article.

The Esquimaux were attended by a large pack of
wolves, which seemed to follow solely to pick up
whatever might be found straggling or defenceless
about their habitation. These animals continued
through the whole winter ravening with hunger, and
in eager watch for any victim which might come
within their reach. For this purpose they took a sta-
tion between the huts and tlie ships, ready to act
against either as circumstances might dictate. They
did not attack the sailors even when unarmed, though
they were often seen hovering through the gloom in
search of prey. Every stray dog was seized, and in
a few minutes devoured. Two wolves broke into
a snow-house close to the ship, and carried off each
a dog larger than himself; but, being pursued, one
of them was obliged to drop his booty. In the ex.
tremity of their hunger they hesitated not to tear
and devour the cables and canvass found lying new

nr*"

VOTAOSa.

)f pure fat or creue,
luantities, and with
This taste was first
having sold her oil-
3ty the contents into
with her tongue, re-
hus as black as soot.
0 ingratiate himself
amscl, presented her
i in the pound. She
le tallow with every
nent, after which she
h; but the Captain,
!es to this delicate
t. In preference to
;r in the most enor-
time, and two quarts
which is perhaps nc-
)od, and which, being
lly melted, is a scarce

d by a large pack of
w solely to pick up
gling or defenceless
! animals continued
ing with hunger, and
which might come
rpose they took a sta-
sh ips, ready to act
night dictate. They
hen unarmed, though
hrough the gloom in
>g was seized, and in
9 wolves broke into
and carried off each
:, being pursued, one
s booty. In the ex-
lesitated not to tear
ass found lying new

KECENT NORTM-WEST VOYAGES.

237

the vessel. A deadly war was therefore waged anainst
these fierce animals, of which thirteen were killed
in the course of the season, and sent to be eaten by
the Esquimaux,— a present which was received wiui
much satisfaction.

As spring advanced, the attention of the officers
was almost wholly engrossed by the prospects of
navigation and discovery during the approaching
summer. Their Esquimaux neighbours by no means
destitute of intelligence, and accustomed to shift
continually from place to place, were found to have
acquired a very extensive knowledge of the seas and
coasts of this part of America. One female, in par-
ticular, named Iligliuk, who bore even among her
countrymen the character of a " wise woman," was,
after a little instruction, enabled to convey to the
strangers the outlines of her geographical knowledge,
in the form of a rude map. A pencil being put into
her hand, she tn^-ed the shore from Repulse Bay
with such a tok le measure of accuracy as in-
spired great confia lice in what she might farther de-
lineate. Iligliuk then began to exhibit a coast
reaching far to the north, being, in fact, the eastern
limits of Melville peninsula. Next her pencil took
a westward direction, when her farther progress was
watched with the deepest interest ; upon which she
was seen tracing a strait between opposite lands, •
that extended westward till it opened on each side,
and spread into an apparently unbounded ocean.
This delineation, which promised to fulfil their most
sanguine hopes, gratified the officers beyond mea-
sure, and they loaded Iligliuk with attentions which
uiiluckily soon turned her head, and made her so
conceited and disdainful that they were obliged to
discontinue their notice of her.

Captain Lyon, in the middle of March, undertook
a journey across a piece of land, lying between the
station of the ships and the continent, which had
beeu named Winter Island. The party wtre scarcely

988

MOINT NORTR-WXflT VOTAOIC.

gone when they encountered a heavy gale, bring[in;
with it clouds of drift, with a cold bo intense, that
they could not stop for a moment without having
their faces covered with frost-bites. After some
vain struggles they determined to pitch their tent ;
but as the temperature within was at zero, anJ was
continually lowering, they felt that they could not
live through the night under this shelter. They
therefore dug a cave in the earth, and by huddling
together round a fire, immersed in smoke, to which
no vent was allowed, contrived to keep up a degree
of warmth, thongh still ten or fifteen degrees below
the freezing point. In the morning their sledge was
too deeply buried beneath the drift to leave any hope
of diggmg it out, and they could reach the ships,
now six miles distant, only by proceeding on foot
through a tempest of snow falling so thick that they
could not see a yard before them. Finding some,
times no track, sometimes several leading in diflferent
directions, they were soon bewildered, and wandered
they knew not where among h^avy hummocks of
ice. The frost-bites were so numerous that they
eould not muster hands enough to rub the parts
affected, and some began to sink into that dreadful
insensibility which is the prelude to death by cold,
and to reel about like drunxen men. Thus they had
resigned almost every hope of deliverance, when
providentially there appeared a new beaten track,
which they determined to follow, and in ten minutes
it led them to the ships. Theii arrival there caused
indescribable joy, as they had been nearly given up
for lost, while no party could be sent in search of
them without imminent risk of sharing their fate.

On the 8th May, in a more favourable season,
Captain Lyon undertook another journey. In a few
hours he crossed Winter Island, and reached the
strait separating it from the continent, covered with
heavy-grounded ice very difficult to walk upon. The
sun. now powerful, produced such a glare on the

1-

IT VOTAOIS.

a heavy gale, bringing
I cold no intense, that
oment without having
tst-bites. After some
ed to pitch their tent ;
I was at zero, anJ was
It that they could not
r this shelter. They
mnh, and by huddling
ed in smoke, to which
)d to keep up a degree
r fifteen degrees below
tming their sledge was
drift to leave any hope
iould reach the ships,
y proceeding on foot
Uing so thick that they
them. Finding some.
3ral leading in different
aldered, and wandered
■ h'-avy hummocks of
D numerous that they
ugh to rub the parts
ink into that dreadful
lude to death by cold,
men. Thus they had
of deliverance, when
I a new beaten track,
ivr. and in ten minutes
ii arrival there caused
been nearly given up
be sent in search of
r sharing their fate.
re favourable season,
ler journey. In a few
md, and reached the
intinent, covered with
lit to walk upon. The
such a glare on the

m

RECENT NORTH-WEST VOYAflES.

239

snow as affected several of the party with severe
blindneiR ; while the only mean:, of procuring water
was by holding up plates of ice in the solar ruys, by
which they were gradually melted. The party, hav-
mg reached the mainland, proceeded a considerable
way along the coast, crossing several bays upon the
ice ; but at last they came in view of a bold cape,
which they fondly and vainly hoped was the extreme
point of America. Here tliey were ovi,ri.>ken by a
storm of snow, but not accompiinied, like thn fornuer,
with perilous cold ; it melted as it fell, and formed a
pulp which penetrated into their tents, yet did not
dissolve so completely as to be fit for drinking. This
storm kept them imprisoned for sixty-eight hours ;
which dreary interval they enlivened by reading in
turn from three books they chanced to have with
them, and as soon as the sun began to gleam they
hastened to return to the ships.

The end of May presented a gloomy aspect, the
season being still more backward than in tlie more
noitherly and rigorous climate of Melville Island.
The snow was dissolved only on some spots, and
hardly any symptoms of vegetation were yet visible ;
but as there was an extent of open water in the sea
without. Captain Parry determined npon sawing his
way through to it. TTiis was a most laborious pro-
cess, the ice being much thicker and stronger than
at the commencement of the season ; and after the
seamen had continued at it more than a fortnight,
and were within forty-eight hours of completing a
canal, the body of the ice made a movement which
closed it entirely up. As they were looking on in
despair at this disaster, another passage opened,
which they attempted to render available. Tliis too
was closed in the same manner ; but these agitations
had at last thu effect of causing the whole mass to
float out into the open sea, and thus leaving to them
an unobstructed passage.

On the 2d July the ships began their career of

MO

IIKCCNT NOHTn-WMT TOYAOI*.

diHcovery. Itiey ha(! a favourable run throuf^h thia
ftca, wliioli formed a continuation of Fox'h Channel ;
but a atroni; current from the north was britigini;
down tlio masses of ice with great force. The Hecla
undf rwent some severe pressures, and, within five or
six hundred yards of the Fury, two large floct*
dashed against each other with such a tremen-
dous concucision, that numberless huge masses were
thrown fifty or sixty feet into the air. The vessel,
haii she come for a moment within the sphere of
-these movements, must have been dashed to pieces,—
happily, she escaped. This current, however, waa
hiirhly promising, Mince it could not be traced to the
mouth of Hudson's Straits, but must have come from
the western ocean which they were so anxious to
reach.

The ice pnsscd by, and the ships proceeded with a
favouring wind and tide. Tlie snores began now to
put on their summer aspect ; the snow had nearly
disappeared ; and the ground was covered with the
richest bloom of Arctic vecetation. The expedition
came to a fine river named Barrow, which formed a
most picturesque fall down rocks richly fringed with
very brilliunt plants. Here the reindeer sporting,
the cider-duck, the golden plover, and the snow-
bunting, spreading their wings, produced a gay and
delightful scene. On the 14th tlie navigators reached
the island of Amitioke, which had been described us
situated near tl>e strait they were then endeavouring
to reach. They saw about two hundred walruses
lying piled, as usual, over each other on the loose
d^ft-ice. A boat's crew from each ship proceeded
to the attack ; but these gallant amphibia, some with
their cubs mounted on their backs, made the most
desperate resistance, and one of them tore the planks
of a boat in two or three places. Three only were
killed, the flesh of which %vas found tolerable, afford-
ing a variety amid, the ordinary sea-diet.

The discoverers now proceeded northwards, and

•T TOTAOla.

urable run throuffh thia
tion of Fox'h Channel ;
lie north was britigini;
Teat force. The Hecla
iirea, and, within five or
Fury, two large floct*
with Huch a tremen-
lesH huge maflses were
0 the air. The vcfwel,
within the sphere of
een dashed to pieces, —
current, however, waa
lid not be traced to the
t must have come from
ly were so anxious to

ships proceeded with a
le snores besan now to
; the snow had nearly
was covered with the
ation. The expedition
arrow, which formed a
cks richly fringed with
the reindeer sporting,
plover, and the snow-
[8, produced a gay and
tlie navigators reached
had been described us
veve then endeavouring
two hundred walruses
ich other on the loose
rn each ship proceeded
It amphibia, some with
backs, made the most
of them tore the planks
ces. Three only were
fotmd tolerable, afford-
ry sea-diet,
eedcd northwards, and

UrCKNT N0RTII-**'i:ST VnVAOES.

ii41

saw before 'liom n ixiiil and liiifh niiiir*' of coast, se-
parated ap,iiirtMitiy from that along whicii they were
Nailing. Tiiis feature agret'int; with tiie indicutiona
of the fair lligliuk, llHttcrcd tiieni that they were
approaching the siruit exhibited by her as loriiiing
the entrance into the Polar basin. They pushed on
full of hope an<l aniniHtion, and were farther clieere(i
liy reaching the small iNland of iKloolik, wliicli she
had described as situated at the very commencement
of liie paissHge. Accordingly tlu y HiMtn nhw the Mtrait
stretching westward beftire ihe?n in long persjw!-
tive ; but, ax ! they discovered t the niune moment
an nnbroKnn sheet of ice fr'i n shore to Nhore, croNs-
ing and blocking up the pa.-.i iire ; and this not a loose
accidental floe, b«' the ic lu »h»j preceding winter,
on which the niiu.^unnner tiun had not produced the
slightest chk.'ge. Uii :', '.^ to adva' -e a sii j !e step,
Ihe^ amused themsrlves with l> ni-exciuiions ni
diflerent directions; luid Caplaii' irry at length
determined, on the lllh Augiis' v ili a party of six,
to undertake an expedition aloi ,; Uie frozen "urface
of the strait. The >,'« y was very labor i i, the
ice being sometimes 1 ;t u .^ i up in rugged hui. , , locks,
and occasionally lea- Mig I , jje spncrs of open water,
which it was necssary to cross tm a plank, or on
pieces of ice instead of boats. In four days they
came in view of a peninsula tenninated by a bold
cape, the approach to winch was guard«!d by succeK-
sive ranges of strata, resembling the tiers or galleries
of a high and commanding fortification. The party,
however, scrambled 'o the summit, whence they
enjoyed a most gratilying spectacle. They were at
the narrowest part of the strait, here about two miles
across, with a tide or current ruiming through it at
the rate of two miles an hour. Westward the sliores
on each side receded, till, for three (mints of the
compass and amid a clear horizon, no land wai^
visible. The captain doubted not that from this po-
nxktn he beheld the Polar sea ; into which, notwiih-

iiiLiaiJiuiiiipl.iiimiiL

iilUi»ftiija!M%j^,|liiJMi.jj|f,iyii>^i|||0|Mj jjiy^wy^^^^^ -

«49

RSCKNT NORTH-WEST V0TA0B8.

standing the formidable barriers of ice which Inter*
vened, he cherished the most sanguine hopes of
forcing his way. ' 'e named this the strait of the
Fury and Hecla, a 1 gave the sailora an extra can
of grog, to drink a safe and speedy passage through
its channel.

Captain Parry now lost no time in returning to the
ships, where his arrival was joyful and seasonable ;
for the opposing barrier, which had been gradually
softening and breaking into various rents and fissures,
at once almost entirely disappeared, and the vessels
next morning were in open water. On the Slst
they got under way ; and, though retarded by fogs
and other obstructions, had arrived on the 26th at
that central and narrowest channel which the com-
mander had formerly reached. A brisk bteeze now
sprang up, the sky cleared, they dashed across a cur-
rent of three or four knots an hour, and sanguinely
hoped for an entire success, which would compensate
so many delays and disappointments. Suddenly,
from the crow's nest above, it was announced that
ice, in a continuous and impenetrable field, unmoved
from its winter station, occupied the whole breadth
of the channel. In an hour they reached this barrier,'
which they found soft, porous, and what is termed
rotten. Spreading all their canva8s,they bore down
upon it, and 'sctually forced their way throuf.'h a
space of three or four hundred yards ; but there the;'
stuck, and found their progress arrested by a fis ei^
and impenetrable mass. From this point, during the
whole season, the ships were unable to advance a
single step. Nor had the crews any means ci ax-
erting their activity except in land-joumeys. Cap-
tain Lyon undertook an expedition southward, to
ascertain if any inlet or passage from sea to sea in
this direction had escaped notice. The country,
however, was so filled with rugged and rocky hills,
some a thousand feet high, and with chains of lakes
in which much ice was floating, that he could not pro-

>YA0E8.

ice which inter*
iguine hopes of
the strait of the
ors an extra can
passage through

1 returning to the
and seasonable;
1 been gradually
ents and fissures,
, and the vessels
r. On the Slst
retarded by fogs
A on the 26th at
which the com-
)ri8k breeze now
lied across a cur-
, and sanguinely
ould compensate
ents. Suddenly,
announced that
le field, unmoved
e whole breadth
ched this barrier,'
what is termed
,they bore down
r way throuf;h a
; but there the;'
58ted by a fijei^
point, during the
le to advance a
ly means ct ax-
journeys. Cap-
1 southward, to
)m sea to sea in
The country,
and rocky hills,
1 chains of lakes
le could not pro-

RECENT NORTH-WEST VOYAGES.

243

ceed above seven miles. Though it M'as the begin-
ning of September, the season was only that of early
sprmg; and the buds of the poppy and saxifrage
were just unfolding, to be prematurely nipped by the
fast-approaching winter.

More satisfactory information was derived from
another excursion made by Messrs. Reid and Bush-
man, who penetrated sixty miles westward along
the southern coast of Cockburn Island, till they
reached a pinnacle, whence they saw, beyond all
doubt, the Polar ocean spreading its boundless ex-
panse before them ; but tremendous barriers of ice
filled the strait, and precluded all approach towards
that great and desired object.

It was now the middle of September, and the
usual symptoms, of deer trooping in herds southward,
floating pieces of ice consolidating into masses, and
the thin pancake crust forming on the surface of the
waters, reminded the mariners, not only that they
could hope for no farther removal of the obstacles
which arrested their progress, but that they must
lose no time in providing winter-quarters. The
middle of the strait, at the spot where they had been
first stopped, occurred as the station whence they
would be most likely to push future discovery ; but
prudence suggested a doubt, whether the ships, en-
closed in this icy prison with such strong barriers on
*ach side, might ever be able to effect their extrica-
tion. It appeared, at all events, a serious considera-
tion, that they might be shut up here for eleven
months, surrounded by rocks and ice, amid the pri-
vations of an Arctic winter. By returning to Igloo-
lik, they would be ready to catch the earhest open-
ing, wmch was expected to take place on the east-
em side, from whence a few days would then bring
them to their present station.

On the 30th October, by the usual operation of
sawing, the ships were established in a harbour at
Igloplik. The ensuing season was passed with the

•r

S44

RECENT NORTH-WEST V0VA0E8.

most careful attention to the health and comfort of
the crews ; but thougli their spirits did sink, there
appear^ to have been, on the whole, less of srayety and
ligTitness of heart than in the two former winterings.
We hear nothing of the drama or even of the school.
In this position, north of Winter Island, they were
deprived for about seven weeks of tlie sun's cheering
beams. On the 2d December refraction still showed,
from the deck of the Fury, about the sixteenth part
of his disk. About the new year, Arcturus and Ca-
pella, stars of the first magnitude, were visible for
naif an hour before and after midday. On the 5th
January (1823), the horizon was so brightly suf-
fused with red, that they hoped ere long to see the
sun's orb burst forth ; but a fortnight of thick fog
occasioned a disappointment. On the 1 9th, the sky
having cleared, they saw him rise, attended by two
parhelia, and both crews turned out to enjoy the
novelty and splendour of this cheering spectacle.

The sailors found at Igloolik a col ny of Esqui-
maux, who received (hem at first with surprise and
some degree of alarm ; but, on learning they were
from Winter Island and intimate with its tenants of
last season, they hailed them at once as familiar
acquaintances. These natives belonged to the same
tribe, and were connected by alliance and close
relationship with many individuals of the Winter
Island party ; of whom, therefore, they were de-
lighted to receive tidings. The crews spent the
winter with them on quite a friendly footing, and
rendered important services to them during a period
of severe sickness. This intercourse, however, was
not on the whole nearly so satisfactory as in the
former place and season. It began to be observed,
that their attachment to the Kabloonas was greatly
prompted by interest and by the hope of extracting
presents ; that they begged for food and gifts almost
without intermission, and yet showed no gratitude
on receiving them ; taking much less into considera-

th and comfort of
its did sink, there
ilessofsfayetyand
former winterings,
iven of the school.
Island, they were
the sun's cheering
iction still showed,
the sixteenth part
Arcturus and Ca-
, were visible for
Iday. On the 5th

so brightly suf-
re long to see the
night of thick fog
1 the 19th, the sky
, attended by two

out to enjoy the
iring spectacle,
col ny of Esqui-
with surprise and
iarning they were
I'ith its tenants of
once as familiar
onged to the same
lliance and close
lis of the Winter
B, they were de-
crews spent the
ndly footing, and
m during a period
rse, however, was
actory as in the
n to be observed,
'onaa was greatly
ope of extracting
1 and gifts almost
wed no gratitude
!ss into considera-

RECENT NORTH-WEST V0TA0E8.

249

tion what they themselves got, than what others got
more than they. The indifference shown towards
such of their own tribe as were in a debilitated and
suffering state was viewed also with much dissatis-
faction. Kagha, a widow, cursed certainly with a
most frightful temper, was found almost perishing
through neglect. Captain Lyon took her into his
own cabin, where, however, her filth and scolding
made her a perfect nuisance; so that, after being
recruited and clothed in two folds of deer-skin, she
was remanded to the huts. Ten days after she was
found at the point of death, solely, it appeared,
through want of food ; and though removed imme-
diately to the ship's hospital, she died next day.
Our people were also much displeased at the stoical
firmness with which the relations received notice
of two of their deceased kindred, whom the dogs
had dug up ttom under the snow, that formed their
only covering, and had devoured. It was indeed
very difficult to find an earthy grave beneath the
glebe, now frozen as hard as rock; but an Esqui-
maux acquaintance having lost his wife, the sailors
piled over her such a heap of stones as might defy
the attempts of all the animals, wild and tame,
>vhich prowl throughout this dreary region. The
man gave thanks, but not cordially ; he even ex-
pressed a dread lest the pressure of this huge pile
would be painfully felt by his deceased spouse; and
soon after, when an infant died, he declared her
wholly incapable of bearing such a burden, and
would allow nothing but snow to be laid over her.
The Esquimaux, during this expedition, became
the subjects of a more minute observation than had
ever before been made upon them by Europeans.
TTiey constitute a most widely diffused race, occu-
pying all the shores of the Northern Ocean, and
embracing nearly the entire circuit of the globe.
Richardson and Franklin found them along the whole
coast of the American Polar sea; Kotzebue in the
X2

U6

RECENT NORTH-WEST VOYAGES.

» channel near Behring's Straits. The Samoiedes
and Kamtehadales, in northern Asia, seem to belong
to the same fam ily. A similarity of visage and figure,
boats, huts, and instruments, — even a resemblance
in habits, character, and mode of life, — might have
been produced by the common pressure of the same
very peculiar outward circumstances. The affinity
of speech, however, which is snch as proves the dia-
lects of all the Esquimaux to be mere varieties of
one common language, affords a clear proof, that an
original race from some one quarter has spread over
the whole range of those immense and desolate
shores. This migration must have been facilitated
by the vast continuity of coast which stretches along
the Arctic Ocean, and which is not equalled in any
other quarter. Hence, probably, the Esquimaux, at
distant ages, connected the old and the new conti-
nents, which at all other points were then wholly
unknown to each other.

The external form of that people seems influenced,
and, as it were, characterized by the severity of the
climate. Their stature is decidedly lower than that
of the European ; five feet nine inches being con-
sidered even in a man as almost gigantic, lliough
the trimk of the body is somewhat thick, all the ex-
tremities are small, especially the hands and feet, and
the fingers short. The face is broad and flat, the
nose small, and at the same time sunk so deep, that
in some instances a ruler could be applied from cheek
to cheek without touching it. It is somewhere ob-
served, that their visage presents that peculiar fonn
which the human face naturally assumes under ex-
posure to intense cold, when all the projecting fea-
tures are drawn in and the cheeks consequently
pushed out. In the same way exposure to the
weather may perhaps produce the high cheek-bones
of mountaineers. Under these modifications, how-
ever, both their body and limbs are very tolerably
shaped. Even the female countenance, though with-

<^m

rOYAGES.

The Samoiedes
3ia, seem to belong
)f visage and figure,
ren a resemblance
' life, — might have
essure of the same
ices. The affinity
1 as proves the dia-
mere varieties of
;lear proof, that an
ter has spread over
;nse and desolate
ve been facilitated
ich stretches along
>t equalled in any
the Esquimaux, at
fid the new conti-
were then wholly

! seems influenced,
he severity of the
ly lower than that
inches being con-
figantic. I'hough
t thick, all the ex-
innds and feet, and
road and flat, the
mnk so deep, that
ipplied from cheek
is somewhere ob-
;hat peculiar fonn
ssumes under ex-
he projecting fea-
jks consequently
exposure to the
high cheek-bones
odifications, how-
ire very tolerably
nee, though witli-

RECKNT NORTH-WEST V0TA0E8.

247

[p. 246.]

out pretensions to rej^ular beauty, is often agreeable,
with a frank and ^ood-humoured expression ; so that,
were it cleared of the thick cnist of grease and dirt,
BO as to exhibit the real complexion, which is only
that of a deep brunette, it might, even in Europe, be
reckoned handsome. The skin is unctuous and un«
pleasantly cold to the touch ; the flesh soft and flabby,
owing probably to the fat animal substances which
form the principal part of their food.

Dress, through the necessity imposed by the cli-
mate, is much more ample, and prepared with greater
care, than is usual among other savage tribes. That
of the men chiefly consists in a double coat of deer-
skin ; the inner part of whi(!h, having the hair placed
next the body, serves as a shirt, while from the outer
a spacious hood is raised to cover the head. The
breeches, of the same material, and also double, reach
down, overlapping the boots, which extend to the
knee, and are composed either of deer-skin, or, if
intended for hunting and travelling, of the hide of
the seal and walrus. The dress of the females con-
sists of the same particulars, with only some varia-
tions in form. They considered themselves particu-
larly fortunate in wearing breeches, and could not
hear without pity of their sisters in Europe, whom
the caprice of mshion had deprived of so comfortable
a habiliment. Their chief distinction lay in their
boots, framed of such capacious dimensions as to
make each leg appear as thick as the body, and allow
them to move only in a waddling gait, similar to
that of Muscovy ducks. These boots form, however,
most spacious receptacles for whatever goods, law-
ful or unlawful, may come into the possession of the
fair wearer. Captain Parry suspects that this huge
buskin was originally constructed as a receptacle
for their children,— a practice still prevalent among
some tribes. — and thus retains its old form, though
the hood is row generally substituted for this do-
mestic purj^cise.

348

BECENT NORTH-WKST VOVAOEt.

The Esquimaux do not huddle on these prarments
in a rude and careless manner, as a mere protection
dgainst the fierce influence of the climate : they dis.
pm« like other savages, a passion for embellishment
and finery. Their clothes are neatly sewed with
threads made from the sinews of animals ; the effect
of their rich furs is heightened by being arranged in
stripes of variouo colours, and by fringes along the
border, adjusted often with considerable taste. They
sought anxiously for beads, in lieu of which they
had ornamented themselves with girdles composed
of the teeth of the fox, wolf, or musk-ox, and one
female had fringed her jacket with a long row of
foxes' noses. It was suspected that these ornaments
might be regarded in some degree under the charac-
ter of amulets or charms, Nor do the Esquimaux
omit that universr.! ornament of savages, the painting
of the human skin. This is executed not by the
Indian process of puncturing, but by a species of
sewing. The women draw under tiie emdermis a
needle, with a thread dipped in lamp-black and oil,
wliich being taken out, and pressure applied to the
part, leaves behind it a permanent olive tint. This
operation, when performed with complete success,
does not draw blood ; but the executioi) is seldom
carried to that degree of perfection. The face, arms,
thighs, and sometimes the breasts of the females,
are profusely covered with this artificial tint.

The labour necessary for subsistence under this
rigorous climate is more arduous, and occupies a
greater share of time, than among any other race,
either civilized or savage. The ground, frozen for
more than nine months of the year, yields neither
root nor herb which can form a standard article of
food. No tame animals are reared for this purpose,
their dogs being so applied only in the last extremity
Hunting is their only resource ; and hence their day*
are spent in the chase of the wild animals which m
Iiabit the sea and the shore. They lead ^hus a lif(9

OVAQES.

n theso grarroenU
II mere protection
:limate : they dis*
ror embellishment
eatly sewed with
iiimals ; the effect
being arranged in
fringes along the
rable taste. They
Bu of which they
girdles composed
musk-ox, and one
th a long row of
t these ornaments
under the charac-

0 the Esquimaux
rages, the painting
cuted not by the
t by a species of
ir the euldermis a
mp-hlack and oil,
re applied to the

olive tint. This
;omplete success,
cutioi) is seldom
The face, arms,
ts of the females,
ificial tint.
Btence under this
I, and occupies a
f any other race,
pround, frozen for
sar, yields neither
tanciard article of

1 for this purpose,
he last extremity
1 hence their day»
animals which m
y lead thus a ]it^

RECENT NOUTH-WEST VOYAnES.

240

of contrivance and atlventure, in the course of which
energy and hardihood of character are formed, and
many faculties amply developed. In tlie absence oi
extreme scarcity of wood and iron, tl. / make use
of the bones of animals, which they have of all
shapes and sizes, yet this is often found too inflexible
a material; while cord or line is formed by cutting
their toughest and most elastic skins into long stripes.
During the short summer, they pursue with bow and
arrow the deer, whose flesh as meat, and whose skin
as clothing, are esteemed above all otliers. The eider
and other ducks also furnish thein with food ; while
the hide, with the feathers inwards, forms a light and
comfortable clothing. The early winter, however,
compels these animals, in large bands, to move into
more genial climes ; and hence, for nine months an-
nually, their food must be found in the waters. These,
indeed, are filled with the large cetaceous fishes, the
seal, the walrus, and even the whale ; but the hunters
and the game are separated by a thick covering of
ice. Tliese animals, however, though they make
their chief dwelling beneath the waves, as fonnerly
ciboerved, experience the necessity of ascending from

tflO

RKCEMT NORTtl-WKST VOTAOII.

time to time for the purpoBrs of respiration. At roch
moments the Esquimaux watch with the most in-
defatifrable patience, often ercctinjj a little snow-shed
to protect them from the cold ; and the instant the
animal appears, strike into him a dart or harpoon,
of which tiiey have several forms and sizes, and
sometimes throw by means of a long line, a neces-
sary part of their apparatus. Their grandest achieve,
ment, however, consists in the attack of the whale ;
on which occasion a large body of them unite, armed
with a variety of weapons. When struck he instantly
plunges into the water ; but, being obliged to come
up at short intervals, is always attacked afresh, till,
overcome by fatigue and loss of blood, this mighty
monarch of the deep remains an unresisting prey.
An Esquimaux does not hesitate, ev(>n singly, to at-
tack the Polar bear, the fiercest and most terrible of
all the Arctic races. In this encounter, however,
he must be aided by a band of his trusty dogs, which
rush fearlessly on, keep the animal at bay, and assail
him on all sides; while the master advances with
his spear, and avoiding, with almost preternatural
agility, the furious springs of the enraged monster,
pierces him with repeated strokes. Nooses, springes,
and traps are also used with skjl], chiefly agamst
birds and foxes.

The Esquimaux showlittlepnidence in the manage-
ment of their supplies. Tne instant that tidings
transpire of the capture of a walrus, shouts of ex-
ultation are laised through the village ; as its inhabit*
ants share the prize in common. On its arrival,
slices are instantly cut out, every lamp is supplied
with oil, the houses are in a blaze ; all the pots ara
filled with flesh, and the women, while cooking, pick
out and devour the most dainty morsels. Tlie feast
prepared, one man takes tip a liirge piece, applies it
to his mouth, and severs with his teeth as much as
that cavity can possibly admit; then hands it .to his
neighbour, and he to the next, till all is consumed.

•isiiihi

m

rOTAOII.

spirafion. At mich
with the most in-
g a little snow-Nhed
111(1 the instant the
a dart or harpoon,
n)s and sizes, and
long line, a neces-
ir fi^randest achieve*
tarrk of the whale ;
f them unite, armed
I struck he instantly
f( obli^red to come
ttackcd afresh, till,
blood, this mighty
I unresisting prey,
even singly, to at-
nd most terrible of
ticoimter, however,
trusty dogs, which
A at bay, and assail
Iter advances with
most preternatural
I enragod monster,
Nooses, springes,
U4f chiefly agamst

ence in the manage-
istant that tidings
Irus, shouts of ex*
age; as its inhabit*
1. On its arrival,
y lamp is supplied
:e ; all the pots ara
vhile cooking, pick
lorsels. Tlie feast
ge piece, applies it
s teeth as much as
hen hands it .to his
ill all is consumed.

RECENT KfORTM-WEST VOTAOIS.

2S1

A new piece is then supplied, and thus the process
continues, almost without intermission, till the ani*
mal is entirely consumed. To the capacity of Es-

Suimaux stomachs there seems scarceH' any limit,
ome experiments on the subject, made m the Fury,
and carefully noted, produced the most surprising re-
sults. A ' outh named Toolooak stands recorded as
having, ii. wenty-onc hours, received into his sto-
mach ten pounds four ounces of solid food* a gallon
and a pint of water, with- more than a pint of soup.
Captain Lyon pitched against him Kangara, who in
nineteen hours finished nine pounds fifteen ounces of
solid, and a gallon and a half of fluid. At this rate,
the most ample store very speedily <lisappears ; one
day they are labouring under fever, hemorrhage, and
iill the maladies incident to repletion ; a few days
after they are without a morsel to eat.

Considered as to their intellectual condition, the
Esquimaux have not the least tincture of what goes
by the name of learning; can form no abstract
idos; nor count above ten, the number of their
fingers. Yet, amid a life somewhat varied and
eventful, many faculties, without any artificial cul-
ture, are spontaneously developed. We have seen
the skill displayed in the construction of their houses,
as well as in pursuing and killing the various te-
nants of the earth and of the waters, on which their
subsistence depends. Their migratory habits give
them a considerable extent of lotial and geographi-
cal knowledge, which they are even in a certain de-
gree able to systematize and delineate. They are
also shrewd and intelligent In all the aflTairs of com-
mon life, and possess a considerable tal' at for humour
and mimicry.

In their moral qualities, the.E8quimaux,clr at least
this particular tribe, present much that is worthy of
commendation. ' At the first opening of the inter-
course, the most undeviating honesty marked all
their conduct, though this quality, in the course of

f

^

v»

KICIKT NORTII-WKIT TOTAOU.

twowiiUcrN'coininunirati()n,waHronNiil(!rablyuiuler<
ininetl. They were uxpotttd, indued, to most Mivere
teniptatiun, by Ht-eiiiij coiiNtimtly aeuttored about the
Bhipi litUo phuikt, piorcH of iron, sind eniiJty tin potn,
winch wuB to them iw if the decka had been atrewed
with gold and jcwcla. It uUu came to their know-
ledge, that, in mime of their early exehungCH, rich
Bkiim had been bartered for beads, and other trirten
of no real value, — a system againat which they ex-
claimed as abNolule robln-ry. From flnit to laat the
virtue now mentioned was nractised among them-
Belves in a manner worthy ol the golden age. Their
dress(!8, sledges, and all theii implement!* of hunting
and fiHhing. were left exfHised inside or ontwide of
the huts, without any instance being known of their
having been earrieiloff. FroiKtrty, without the aid
if laws and tribunals, was in the most perfect security.
The common right to the i)roiIu<-t8 of the chase
aoarks also a singular union, without seeming to re-
lax their diligence in search of food, though it may
perhaps contriliute to their very thoughtless consump-
tion of it. The navigators a<lmit that they were re-
ceived with the most cordial hospitality into the lit-
tle huts, where the best meat was set before them,
and ihe women vied with each other in the atten-
tions of cooking, drying, and mending their clothes.
" The women working and singing, their husbands
quietlv mending their lines, the children playing Ix;-
fore the door, and the pot boilin.T over the blaze of a
cheerful lamp," gave a pleasing picture of savage life.
Yet a continued intercourse showed that the iEsuvii-
maux inherited their full share of human frailty.
Begging we shall pass over, though in many in-
atances persevering and incessant, because it seems
to have been called fprth almost entirely by their
connexion with our countrymen, and by too lavish
presents at the first; while their little bursts of envy
appear to have flowed from the same source. But
the fair Esquimaux are charged with a atronif pro-

onsidorably iiinler*
ed, tu most ativere
tcattored about the
iuil pni|)ty till potfl,
\ httd b««ii atreweil
ime to their know-
iy t^xrhimi^cN, rich
In, mul othfr Iritlcs
mt which they cx<
>m Ami to lattt the
86(1 ainonff them-
roUleii dgp.. Their
iemeiitjs of huiiliii?
»i(lo or otitHide of
iii; known of their
y, without the aid
>Ht perfect security.
K-tM of the chiuc
ant BcemiiiH; tu re-
tod, though it may
U){htlr88 consuiiip-
that lliey were re-
>ilalily into the lit-
is set before them,
ther in the atten-
ding their clothes.
ig, their husbands
lildren playing Ix;-
)ver the blaze of a
lure of savage life.
3d that the Gstnii-
af human frailty,
mgh in many in-
, because it seems
entirely by their
and by too lavish
ttte bursts of euvy
ame source. But
vith a strong pro-

W!«;«!IT NORTtt-WKST rOTAOKB.

983

pensity to slander and detraction, which were ns
busy among tlicm, as they sat in circles round the
door mending their lines, as in the nioht fashionable
drawing-rooniH. Tlieir own conduct, meantinn!, is
said to have afforded the most ample s<'ope for cen-
suri'.tspccially in ri;gard toconnul)ial fidflity; and yet
when It is aihniited that these faults were caK'fully
concealed, suuJ much outward decorum observed, and
that the propcnHJiy tu calumny often led the natives
lieyond the strict limits of tnith, wo doubt whether
tot) impli(;it reliance may not have been placed on tho
scandalous chronicle of the frozen regions. Hie
naliyeH certainly do appear to display a fieculiar apa-
thy m regard to the sufferings and even the death of
nuighl)oiirs and relations. Widows, and the ajred
ami infirm, if they hiivo not children of their own
expeiience the grcat(!9t indifference. In times of
plenty, indeed, they share in the general abundance
of food ; but during scarcity a very small qnaii-
tity reaches them, and, receiving no attendance
in Uieir sickness, they pften perish through pure
want and neglect. The children arc treated with
•xtreme tenderness ; though the practice of adop-
tion, which prevails most extensively, :ind which
sstabhshes in full force between the parties the ties
t>r father and child, is practised with regard to bovs
only, and seemingly with the view that they mav
contnbute to support the old age of their factitious
parents.

The religious ideas of the Esquimaux, though ther
cannot be dignified with any better name than su-
perstition, are not much more absurd than the popular
creed of the ancient Greeks and Romans. Their
principal deity is Aywillaiyoo, a female, immensely

inJ;^K v"'^ *^^i- ^I 7^' ."^^'"Sf * P'&ta''» reach,
ng to her knee, so thick that it can scarcely be grasped

by both hands. Captain Lyon witm.ssed a inightv

incantation, in which Toolemak, the chief raarician.

•ununoned Aywillaiyoo to the upper world to utter

r

254

RECENT NORTH-WEST V0YA0E9.

her oracles. The party were assembled in a hut,
where light after light was put out, till they were left
in total darkness. Toolemak, the^i, after loud ir' o-
cations, professed to doscend to the world below to
bring up the goddess. Soon there arose a low chant
of peculiar sound, imagined to be the voice of Ay wil-
laiyoo. During half an hour, in reply to the loud
screams and questions of her votaries, she uttered
dubious and mystical responses; after which the
sound died away, and she was supposed to descend
beneath tlie earth, when Toolemak, with a shout, an-
nounced his own return to the upper world. The
magician however, being soon after on board a Bri-
tish ship, was treated with nine glasses of hot water
(brandy), mider the influence of which he began to
act over again his enchantments, when it appeared,
that by varying modes of applying the hand or jacket
to the mouth, he produced those changeful and mys-
terious sounds which hci passed for the words of
Aywillaiyoo. This divinity has for her father
a giant with one ann. The Esquimaux pan-
theon comprises, moreover, Pamiooli, a spirit fre-
quently invoked, and a large beiir, whose dwelling
is in the middle" of the ice, and who frequently
holds converse with mankind. The natives believe
also in a future world, the employments and plea-
siues of which, according to the usual creed of
savage races, ar6 all sensual. The soul descends
beneath the earth through succfcssive abodes, the
first of which has somewhat of the nature of pur
gatory; but the good spirits passing through it
find th« other mansions successively improve, till
they reach that of perfect bliss, far beneaih, where
the sun never sets, and where, by the ride of large
lakes that never freeze, the deer roam in vast
herds, and the seal and walrus always abound in the
waters.

We now return to the progress of thf expedition.
The spring was singularly uiifavourab[,e. Captam

OYAOES.

sembled in a hitt,
, till they were left
^l, after loud ir'o-
le world below to
arose a low chant
tie voice of Ay wil-
reply to the loud
tariea, she uttered
after which the
pposed to descend
;, with a shout, an-
pper world. The
er on board a Bri-
asses of hot water
(fliich he began to
when it appeared,
the hand or jacket
langeful and mys-
for the words of
I for her father
Esquimaux pan-
looli, a spirit fre-
•, whose dwelling
i who frequently
le natives believe
^ments and plea-
i usual creed of
lie soul descends
ssive abodes, the
;he nature of pur
issing through it
vely improve, till
ar beneaih, where
' the fide of large
er roam in vast
ays aboi'nd in the

jt the expedition.
L)urab[.c. Captam

RSCKNT NOUTII-WEST VOYAGES.

255

Lyon attemptfid to penetrate across Melville Penin-
sula, but found the route so rugged and so barred by
steep chains of mountains, that he was obliged to re-
turn in nineteen days without any discovery, except
of two rapid rivers falling into the sea near Igloolik.
Lieutenant Hojjpner accompanied a party of Esqui-
maux to Cockbum Island, but could not penetrate to
any distance inland. It was the 7th of August before
they were able, by severe sawing, to reach the open
sea ; by which time Captain Parry had renounced the
hope of effecting any thing important during the short
re mnant of this season. He formed, however, a very
bold plan, which was to bring all the stores of the
other vessel on board the Fury, and with it alone to
brave a third winter in the Polar regions, hoping that
the succeeding summer might be more propitious.
But as he was preparing to carry this too daring pro-
ject into effect, a report was made that symptoms of
scurvy had broken out on several of the crew, whose

ehysical strength appeared to be generally impaired
y the two hard winters through which they had
passed. This left no choice; and, in compliance
with the general opinion of his officers, Captain Parry
began his voyage homeward. The ships were drifted
!ibout in a stormy sea covered with ice for twenty-
four days; but, being at last favoured with a west-
eriy breeze, they crossed the Atlantic, and on the
10th of October, 1823, arrived in Brassa Sound,
Shetland. After two successive years thus passed in
the depths of the frozen world, whence not the
faintest rumour of the expedition had reached Britain,
its members were viewed almost au men risen from
the dead. The bells of Lerwick were rung, and
other extraordinary demonstrations of joy made
on their arrival. In a few days they entered tlie
Thames.

Two attempts had thus been made, each to a cer-
tain point successful, but both arrested much short
of the completion of the grand enterprise. The

256

RECENT JJORTH-WEST VOYAGES.

government at home, however, were not willing to
stop short in their spirited career. ITie western ex-
tremity of Melville Island, and the strait of the Fury
and Hecla, appeared to be both so blocked up as
to afford little hope ; but Prince Regent's Inlet, when
explored during Captain Parry's voyage, had pre-
sented, indeed, an icy barrier, but such as had so often
given way suddenly and almost instantaneously, that
its existence early in the season could not be con-
sidered very alarming. A passage through this
channel would bring the ships to the great sea
bounding the northern coast of America, that had
been seen from the strait of the Fury and Hecla, and
along which Captain Franklin had partly sailed, and
by which there was the fairest hope of reaching, by
the most direct route, the waters of the great Pacific.
To follow up these views. Captain Parry was again
fitted out in the Hecla ; while, in the accidental ab-
sence of Captain Lyon, the Fury was intrusted to
Lieutenant, now Captain Hoppner, who had taken
an active part in the operations of the last voyage.

The expedition set sail from Northfleet en the 19th
May, 1824, and was in Davis's Strait by the middle
of June. As the season, however, chanced to be pe-
culiarly rigorous, it was not till the iOth of Septem-
ber, that, after repeated repulses and severe straining,
they caught a view of the bold and magnificent
shores of Lancaster Sound, in which a few solitary
icebergs were floating. After this they thought
themselves fortunate, when, by pushing their way
through many miles of newly-fotmed ice, they
reached Port Bowen in time to make it their winter-
quarters.

The provision made during this winter for the
physical well-being of the expedition was still more
complete than in the former voyages. The heat of
the cabins was kept up to between .50 and 60 degrees,
and the seamen wore next the skin a clothing of fur,
a substance which nature has endowed with a warmth

<#

)TAOES.

re not willing to
ITie western ex-
strait of the Fury
io blocked up as
fent's Inlet, when
loyage, had pre-
!h as had so often
antaneoiisiy, that
3uld not be con-
\re through this

0 the great sea
merica, that had
y and Hecla, and
partly sailed, and
! of reaching, by
the great Pacific.
Parry was again
le accidental ab-
was intrusted to
, who had taken
the last voyage.

hfleet en the 19th

lit by the middle

chanced to be pe-

iOth of Septem-

1 severe straining,
and magnificent

ih a few solitary
lis they thought
ishing their way
b!rmed ice, they
ie it their winter-

i winter for the
an was still more
IS. The heat of
lO and t)0 degrees,
a clothing of fur,
ed with a warmth

RBCENT NORTH-WEST VftYAflES.

257

T*

far suipassing that of any human fabric. Yet the
deep monotony produced by the perfectly uniform
aspect of external nature, instead of becoming less
sensible by habit, was only the more painfully felt.
As the Arctic theatre had lost its attractioii, Captain
Hoppner started the idea of masquerades, which
were, perhaps, still more out of keeping with tlie
place and perpons ; but the sailors caught at it with
pleasure, and on these occasions all of thorn acted
their part with ^reat spirit, and with strict decoium.
The salutary and steady influence of the schools was
again revived, and the whole crew gave their pre-
sence, either as teachers, scholars, or spectators.

The spring was unusually favournble, and, with
comparatively easy sawing of the ice, the navigators
warped out to sea on the 19th July, 1825. As it ap-
peared most desirable to coast southward along the
western 'hore of the inlet, thf y stood across the bay,
but were soon arrested by a cc ntinuous barrier of ice,
which, howevev, left an open space on the opposite
side. A fruitless attempt was now made to penetrate
southward, the channel there being found to be
equally impeded with ice ; hence it was judged ad-
visable, with the view of seeking a less encumbered
passage along the western shore, to stretch to the
northward. An adverse gale, by which they were
overtaken near the month of -the inlet, now drove
them eastward; but at last they regained their
course, and soon came in view of the bold face of
the Leopold Isles, the rocks of which rise in hori-
zonti'i strata of limestone to the heiffht of 600 or 700
feet, resembling a huge and imp-Cj; ■ ible fortress.

Hav.i c 'uched at Cape Seppings, Captain Parry
pioceedf i jwn Uie inlet, where he was no longer
arrested t)y an un'Token barrier of ice. The sea,
howevp; , w i;; still heavily encumbered by numerous
sm;tlV augments, that were tossing about in every
(Urecii.n, a.id prpssed upon the ships so hard, that
«'"• me'i 1 'ished k . :> contrary wind ; which, coming

358

RECENT NORTH-WEST TOTAOES.

from the south, would open and disperse the masses
collected and driven against them by the orth wind.
In this anxious and precarious state, tli ,' worked
slowly on till the 1st August, when they i iched the
latitude of 72° 42Mongitude 91° 50'. H. o Captain
Parry, from the Hecla, saw the Fury rec( e a most
severe shock by a large floe, that forced li r against
the grounded ice of the shore ; and tidings ^ on came,
that she had been very sharply nipped, an was ad-
mitting water copiously. The command' trusted
that this would prove as harmless as the m.n.y shocks
which this vessel had already e.idured; that the
water made its entry by means of the twisted position
into which she had been thrown ; and that, when she
was relieved from pressure, her leaks wOuld close.
But the next accounts were, that she could not be
kept clear of water except by the action of four
pumps, at which the whole crew, officers and men,
were obliged to work. It became evident that the
evils under which she laboured could only be dis-
covered and remedied by the operation of heaving
down, by which her position being reversed, the parts
now under water would be exposed to view. This ex-
pedient required a harbour, and there was none at hand ;
however, something was formed, which resembled
one, by connecting with anchors and bower-cables
the grounded ice to the shore. Four days were spent
in unlading the Fury of those ample stores with
which she had been provided. The operation was
interrupted, too, by a violent storm of snow ; while
the external ice, being driven in, demolished, in a great
measure, the slender bulwarks by which the vessel
was secured. Her holds were filled with water, and
every examination proved the damage of hei hull to
be still more serious than was at first apprehended.
No means or prospect apr, ared, either of securing
her in her present posit= r or of floating her to any
known place of safety. In these circumstances, Cap-
tain Pariy, without" expressing any opinion of his

mmm.

TAOE».

KECENT POLAR VOYAGES,

259

iperse the massdt
ly the arth wind.
■ worked
iched the
^ Captain
e a most
: against
on came,
was ad-
trusted

ite, til
they I
)'. H,
ry rec(
)rced li
idin^s .
ped, an
nmand

the ma i.y shocks
idured; that the
e twisted position
nd that, when she
aks would close,
she could not be
e action of four
•fficers and men,
evident that the
mid only be dis-
ation of heaving
jversed, the parts
oview. This ex-
was none at hand;
which resembled
nd bower-cables
• days were spent
iple stores with
le operation was
of snow ; while
9lished,inagreat
(vhich the vessel
I with water, and
ge of hei hull to
"St apprehended.
Lher of securing
laling: her to any
umstances, Cap-
yr opinion of his

own, called for a report from Captain Hoppner and
liis principal officers, all of whom agreed " that an
absolute necessity existed for abandoning the Fury."
Signals, therefore, were immediately made to the
officers and men to carry their clothes and effects on
board the Hecla. The stores, from want of room,
were necessarily abandoned along with the sliip;
and barrels of beef, beer, biscuit, and other valuable
articles of provision, were left exposed on those
savage and desolate shores, where they were unlikely
to afford aid or benefit to any human being. After
such a (hsaster, and the end of August being arrived,
there was just time enough left to bring the Hecla
home with a fair prospect of safety, — aii event which
was in due time accomplished.

CHAPTER VIII.

Recent Voyages to~jiiards the North Pole.

Since the times of Hudson and Fothevby, during
the lapse of more than a century, the attempt to
reach and to crosn the North Pole had not been re-
sumed. The extraordinary zeal, however, which, in
the early part, of the reign of George III., and under
the patronage of that excellent monairsh, was kindled
in the cause of naval discovery, failed not to extend
in every direction. Mr. Daines Barriugton, distin-
guished by the miion of rank with scientific acquire-
ments, espoused with ardour the belief that, in spite
of every obstacle, the Pole of the eai th might be
reached, and various facts thereby brought to light,
which at present are hid in mystery. He read to
the Royal Society several papers on this subject,
which were afterward reduced into a sepaiate tica-

■?":*^^

S60

RECKNT POIAB VOTAOEB.

rise ; and that learned body, imbibing with zeal th»
opinions of their eminent associate, solicited the
Board of Admiralty to fit out an expedition which
might attempt to realize this interesting object. The
Earl of Sandwich, then at the head of the naval de-
partment, entered with ardour into the .'ociety's
views, and drew up the plan of an expedition, which
he submitted to his majesty, assured of meeting with
his cordial concurrence. The intentions of govern-
ment having now transpired, Captain John Phipps,
afterward Lord Mulgrave, offered himself for the
command, and was accepted. Two bomb-vessels,
known under the nUher odd names of the Race-
horse and the Carcass, were selected, and stored with
an extra provision of wine, spirits, and whatever else
could contribute to the comfort and health of the
crews. The Carcass was commanded by Lieutenant
Lutwidge, under whom Horatio Nelson, afterward
so celebrated in the naval annals of Britain, served
as cockswain. Other equipments were added, not
hitherto customary in nautical expeditions. Those
formerly fitted out in England were chiefly set on foot
by mercantile bodies, who were content to combine
geographical discovery with certain views of com-
mercial advantage. The expeditions projected under
the auspices of George IIL were the first which had
the promotion of science for their sole object. Mr.
Israel Lyons, an eminent astronomical observer, was
employed by the Board of Longitude to supply the
ships with suitable instniments ; they also sent two
chronometers, constructed with the greatest care by
Kendall and Arnold for measuring the distance
from the first meridian, by difference of time. Mr.
Gumming construct(!d a seconds-pendulum, fitted
to determine the range of that instrument in high
latitudes. Sir Joseph Banks and M. d'Alembert,
drew up papers suggesting various scientific objects,
respecting which observations would be desirable.
The vessels were also su^olie J with Dr. Irving's up-

•mm

fc^:^ SfT-jafe^-it-^-

g with zeal the
i, solicited the
pedition which
ig object. The
•f the naval de-
I the .'ociety's
pedition, which
jf meeting with
ions of povern-
n John Phipps,
limself for the
• bomb-vessels,
i of the Race-
and stored with
d whatever else
d health of the
:lby Lieutenant
Ison, afterward
Britain, served
vere added, not
litions. Those
liefly set on foot
tent to combine
views of corn-
projected under
first which had
le object. Mr.
il observer, was
3 to supply the
Y also sent two
preatest care by
g the distance
i of time. Mr.
endulum, fitted
rument in high
M. d'Alembert,
ientific objects.
Id be desirable.
Dr. Irving's ap-

RECENT FOLAR VOYAGES.

261

paratiis for distilling fresh water from the sea, — an
invention which, being then recent, excited much in-
terest.

Thus equipped, the expedition began to move on
the 2lst May, 1773 ; but being detained by contrary
winds, could not quit the Nore till the 4th June.
The last object seen on land was Whitby Abbey ;
and Captain Pliipps then steered into the mid-chan-
nel of the German Ocean, endeavouring to avoid
equally Norway and Shetland. In sixJ.y degrees of
latitude the sun set about twenty minuti^s past nine ;
the clouds making a beautiful appearance by its re-
flection from below the horizon. In latitude 66°, on
the 19th June, that luminary, even at midnight, was
still visible. Captain Phipps here undertook to
make deeper soundings than were ever known to
have been before attempted ; aad with a very heavy
lead he reacJ- ed 780 fathoms. The temperature at
that depth was 26° Fahrenheit, while in the air it
was 48^. Trial was now made of Dr. Irving's ap-
paratus, which was considered completely success-
ful, inasmuch as it was found to produce a sufficient
quantity of perfectly good water either for drinking
or cooking, without any inconvenient expense of fuel.
This favourable opinion has not been confirmed by
nautical experience; and the practice, chiefly, we
believe, from the quantity of fuel required, has never
come into general use.

On the 27th June, the navigators found themselves
in the latitude of the southern part of Spitzbergen,
without any appearance either of ice or land. On
the 29th they saw the shore, and stood close in with
It. This coast "appeared to be neither habitable
nor accessible ; for it was formed by high barren
black rocks, without the least mark of vegetation;
in many places bare and pointed ; in other parts co-
vered with snow, appearing even above the clouds :
the valleys between the high cliffs were filled with
snow and ice. The prospect would have suggested

2^2

RECENT POLAn YOYAORa.

!he wp.^tfcr^"^''^!"'"'"' ^'""^ ""''^^ mildness of
me weather, the smootli water, bright sunshine and

ioT''l^?^''f\'-^'''" '^ eheirfuLssZd noCdtv
^ the whole of this striking and romantic scene."

thif k"!5""T? enjoyed fine weather in sailing along
2vi 1 ** amllofty coast, and measured the height of
f^K ,e-?/, ^ mountains, one of which was found

he m1f«? ^'f ^" '•'? 3°."' -^""^ they learned from
the master of a Greenland vessel, that the ice lay

Dn nh"oi!;'f ^' 2.*^ \*? the westward, and that oni

lonril ^1"^° ^"^^•''' '^*P^ ^^ ^^^ lost in the
course of the season.

tdV)^ f '' ^^^^ ",f '^"^y* ^'''Pt^in P>»PP8 con-
tmued to steer along the coast of Spitzbergen, pass-
ing several Greenland ships busily cngaj,^d in the

f.'^l- ?\*?^t>^ •^'*'"« to Magdtlena Hoek,
near which he landed, and began observations upon
the variation of tlio compass, which were soon

p^T"P*i?'^ K"- ^^'^^ ^°S- ^*-'i"g informed by the
Rockingham Greenland ship, that the ice was ten
leagues off Hakluyt's Headland, he determined to
steer for that north-western extremity of Spitzbergen.
on the 5th, as he was avoiding certain islands off
uanes Uat, something white was seen amid the
mist, and a noise was heard as of surf breaking upon
the shore. The commander, desiring the Carcass
to keep close to him, determined to stand for it, and
see what it was. Ere long, amid thick foo-, the
crews saw an object on their bow, partly blacjk, and
partly covered with snow, which tliey at first mis-
took for islands, but which soon proved to be the
mam body of the ice, on which wind and sea were
beating with violence, and from which they could
not have escaped, except by constant change of tack,
and by the utmost alertness of officers and men

Captain Phipps, finding himself now upon the
main northern ice, and being informed that it ex-
tended, unbroken, to the north-west, determined to
move eastward,— a direction seldom taken by the

IKS.

t the mildness of
ht sunshine, and
less and novelty
omantic scene."
in sailinjf alonpr
•ed tlie height of
'hich was found
ley learned from
that the ice lay
1, and that one
been lost in the

in Pliipps con-
itzbergen, pass-
cngajfed in the
igdalena Hoek,
servations upon
ieh were soon
nformed by the
le ice was ten

determined to
of Spitzbergen.
ain islands off
seen amid the

breaking upon
ig the Carcass
itand for it, and

thick fog, the
rtly blacjk, and
:yat first mis-
oved to be the

and sea were
lich they could
change of tack,
s and men.
tiow upon the
led that it ex-
determined to
1 taken by the

RECENT POLAR VOYAGES.

S68

whale-fishers, and where he hoped to find some
opening to them unknown. Continumg to work his
way against the wind, between the ice and the land,
he passed first Hifkluyt's Headland, then Vogel
Sang, and on the 7th found himself approaching the
bold pinnacle of Cloven CliflT,— a remarkable pro-
montory, nanuul from its resemblance to a cloven
hoof, and whi(!li, from its perpendicular form, is
n(!ver covered with snow. Here, as the frozen
masses increased in number and size, and fresh ice
was forming on the surface of the sea, the officers
and men, after full deliberation, concluded it vam to
attempt penetrating in this direction. They were
farther discouraged, by considering that this was
nearly the place in which all previous navigators
had been checked in their efforts to reach the Pole.
Captain Phipps therefore determined to stand to the
westward, cherishing some hopes of a passage in
that direction. He had a dreary run, immersed in
fogs so thick, that the ships, even when very near,
could not see each other. A number of the crew,
notwithstanding an extra allowance of wine and
spirits, became affected with rheumatic colds and
pains in the bones. Having made ten degrees to the
westward, without the least appearance of an open-
ing, the commander determined again to try the east,
in the hope that the continuance of warm weather
might have dissolved the barriers which had formerly
arrested his progress. On the 12th July the navi-
gators were again in the vicinity of Cloven Cliff,
and found a good harbour on the island, to which it
is attached by a narrow isthmus. Here they obtained
abundance of water, and, notwitlistandiug the fog,
made some important celestial observations ; taking
the bearings and altitudes of the principal objects on
the coast. In endeavouring to push on, however,
Captain Phipps was again stopped at neariy the
same point as Ijeforc; finding the ice locked in with
the laud, and uo passage either to the east or north.

M4

RECENT I'OLAB VOYAGES.

He turned once more in despair westward, and kept
close to the miiiii ice, puNliina; >"'<> "H itx openings,
Boni.' of which, ht'iiii; nearly two leagues fonff, af-
forded hopes of a pasBatfc; but they proved to be
onhr ice-bays. Near Hakluyt'a Headland the sh' is
suffeied ii severe pressure betwecni a loose fraft.aeut
of ico and the main l)oiiy. The communder now
found It very unsafe to proceed before an eastcily
wind, whi< h brought in all the loose pieces, and drove
them iiffaiist the sn-eat mass, making it resemble a
rocky shore; andiiprovedboth ea-sierandsafer tosail
a»r:nnst the wind. Captain Phipps rcsolvtjd, in spite
ol rrpeated repulses, to make another effort to the
''ii-.tward ; and this lime he had some success. Mak-
ing way through the loose fragments, he came to an
ojjfn sea, stretching north-east, which inspired the
most flatt< ring hopes. The coast was neither so
lofty, nor exhibited the same dark monotonous aspect,
as the one he had just passed ; the tints, beuig more
varied and having more of the natural colour of
earth, h;\il caused the early navigators to give to
different points the names of lied Beach, Red Hill,
and Red Cliff. At length he reached Moffen, an
island low and flat, covered with numerous flocks of
wildfowl. Ho continued two days longer to sail
through an open sea, meeting only loose floating
masses, till, on the 27th, he was stopped by the main
body of (lie ice lying east and west. He then
coasted it to the eastward, pushing the ship, by a
press of sail, into the icy bays or openings, not-
withstanding the large loose pieces by wliich these
were encumbered. On the 29th July the expedi-
tion reached a low flat island, larger than Moffen,
clothed with moss, and filled with deer and various
animals. They found on the shore large fir-trees,
some 70 feet long, partly torn up by the roots, partly
cut down by the axe, and fashioned into different
shapes, but all pfrfectly entire. Two of the officers
engaged in an encounter with a walrus, from which

\9.

twanl, and kept
h11 itH openinf^,

ray proved to he
uiland the shps
I loose fraftiuent
•ommundpr now
ifore aneastcily
)ic('cs, and drove
Iff it resemble a
fiind safer to sail
csolvtjd, in .spito
her effort to the
success. Mak-
, he came to an
ch inspired the
tvas neither so
otonous aspect,
nts, being more
tural colour of
lors to give to
leach, Red Hill,
hed Moffen, an
lerous flocks of

longer to sail
r loose floating
aed by the main
'est. He then

the ship, by a
openings, not-
by wliich these
ly the expedi-
r than Moffen,
er and various
large fir-trees,
le roots, partly

into different
I of the officers
IS, from which

RRCKNT POt,AR VOYAOFd.

308

they came off witli little honour. The animal be-
ing single, was wounded in the flrtit instance ; but hti
immediately plungred into the deep, and came up
with a large body of his fellows, who made a united
attack upon the boat, wrested an oar from one of
the men, and had nearly overset her, when another
boat from the Carcass, imder the command of Nelson,
(;amr o her relief.

'' he point which the discoverers had n(»v

1 i, they saw that remote peninsula of Spitz-

whicii the Dutch call North-east-land, and
tlie range of the Seven Islands. The ice
I' '>ogan to gjither round them, and Captain

J . . . "a moimting the top of a highisland, saw

to tuc east ind north-cast one continued frozen sur-
face, boundrd only by the horizon. The ships were
now becalmed amid a In ;intiful and picturesque
scene; the immense field of ice being covered with
Know, except that some pools of water were coated
with a thin newly-formed crust. The mariners
attempted in vain to make any sensible progress
eastward; the ice closed fast, and no opening was
any where seen, except for about a mile and a half
round the ships. The pilots, who had never before
proceeded so far, were seriously alarmed lest they
should be beset. Nor were their fears groundless,
for next day the ships were frozen in faster than ever,
not having room to turn, while the passage by whic^h
they had entered from the westward had entirely
closed up behind them. The adventurers had then
no room for farther consideration, but how to ex-
tricate themselves and return home. They began
sawing through deep ice, where it was sometimes
twelve feet thick ; and these laborious efforts only
enabled them to move three hundred yards west-
ward; while the mass within which they were
enclosed was moving eastward, carrying them along
with it. In these circumstances. Captain Phipps
•onceived no time was to be lost in putting out the

t66

nCCVNT POtAR VOVAOEH.

bonti and draffpnsf them over the ice, with tlio view
of reaeliing the Dutch Bhips, which usuiiUy be^an
about this time to direct tneir course homewards.
On the 7th \uKUt,' (lie boats were got forwanl two
miles; and tiie cuii.>>'u1er« on 'lia returning to the
shipa, finding the ic^; >• i .', them a 'ittle more open,
caused all sails »o be t; a. • y whit^x ■.■.cans they wor.)
r.adc to move forward, ti.onsi;h rlowly, and still
coiuiteracted by the drift-ice. Hi-inK favoureil, how-
ever, by moist and foffxy wem'ier, their projfrcss be-
came more rapid. They came up with the boats,
dud took then) in ; and on the lOth, having a brink
gale from the north-east, they forced the ships through
all obsta I , though not without sustaining many
lieavy st.u) i!S, and bre<iking the shank of their best
bower-anci ir; but about noon they found themselves
in tlie open sea.

Being thus d ii ■ i red from their greatest fear, they
repaired to the harl« .n of Smeerenberg for rest and
refreshment. In ii" trinity they admired a very
lofty iceberg, which , m anted to the sea a perpendi-
cular face nearly 300 leet high, of a line light gieen
colour, and down which a cascade was pouring.
" The blacit mountains, white snow, and beautiful
colour of the ice, made a very romantte and uncom-
mon picture." A large fragment, which had fallen
into the sea, floated out, and grounded in twenty-
four fathoms : it stood fifty feet high, and was of the
same beautiful colour as the iceberg.

Captain Phipps, before quitting tlie Polar world,
made some general remarks on the phenomena which
it presents. He observed always a great swell near
the edge of the ice ; but. whenever he was enclosed
among its loose frag^inents, ibe sea was perfectly
smooth. According to Hudson, me green waters
were fiee from ice, wlitsh was found only in the blue ;
but no ground was now seen for this distinction, nor
does there probably exist any. Marten described
the aun at nmlniyht us resembling llio moon u» up-

aHimim

if*

f

mmttir liiuniii nmiimfi lYir li m i iiriii - „|irt,i

P '

DEH.

ice, with the view
ich usually be^an
jursp homewards.

I ({ot forward two
s rbturniuK to the

II 'ittle moro open,
\ .xans they wt-r.)

f lowly, and still
in^ favourtHJ, how-
their proifri-ss bc-
p with tliii boats,
th, having a brisk
dtlic ships through

sustaining many
ihank of their best
f found them.selvca

greatest fear, they
;nberg for rest and
y admired a very
the sea a perpendi-
' a hue light green
ade was pouring,
low, and beautiful
nanthj and unconi-
:, which had fallen
)unded in twenty-
igh, and was of the
jrg.

J tlie Polar world,
! phenomena which

a great swell near
jr he was enclosed
sea was perfectly

ihe green waters
id only in the blue ;
his distinction, nor

Marten described
i iho moon ui up*

— -^

r

•.''■.:2^y,fiaii-_ Ji'S-feaaitieate.atsaA^ttiia^-^a: iwAf aAMiB.^Jfeit-'-^'^ ESaaiasaiiiSlgJS

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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2.0

1^

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Photographic

Sdences

Corporation

23 WIST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716)872-4503

o^

:

ll

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

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Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

'

L

RECENT POLAR VOYAGES.

267

pearance; but our observers could see no differ-
ence, except what arose from its being lower in the
heavens.

Oh the 19th AuGfust, Captain Phipps weighed for
England, and on tiie Slth was somewhat surprised by
tlie sight of Jupiter, no star having for a long time
been visible amid the perpetual liglit of the northern
sl{y. After passing Shetland on tlie 7th September,
he met with a series of very heavy gales, diu'ing
which he lost three boats, and was obliged to throw
two guns overboard. However, having reached Or-
fordness on the 24th, he proceeded without farther
difficulty to the Nore.

The result of this voyage, which was considered
as having been made under fair and even favourable
circumstances, tended altogether to chill the hopes
of penetrating nearer to the great northern boimda-
ries of the earth. It seemed that, from the eightieth
degree, ice in one unbroken field stretched to the
Pole, and that its margin presented an impenetrable
wall to the navigators of the Greenland Sea. Dis-
appointed hope was followed, as usual, by a suspen-
sion of interest ; and the northern realms had simk
almost into oblivion, till the revival of the recent
spirit of discovery. Public attention was first recalled
to them by Mr. Scoresby, who, Bred as a practical
whale-fisher, had been nursed, as it were, amid the
tempests and snows of the north, and had observed
their aspects with an intelligent and scientific eye,
very unusual among those who pursue so rough and
bustling a trade.

In 1806 this gentleman made the nearest approach
to the Pole that has ever yet been fully authenti-
cated ; for the statements of the Dutch, and other
navigators, who boast of having gone much nearer,
are subject to great doubt as to their observations of
latitude. Mr. Scoresby was then acting as mate
under his father, who commanded a GreeSand ship.
They at first proceeded by Jan Mayen into the west.

t

sea

RECENT POLAR VOYAGES.

era bight, where the seal-fishery is carried on ; but
afterward they changed their purpose, and came
round to the whale-biglit. They found the vmters
encumbered, even in a low latitude, by much broken
ice, through which they made their way not without
some danger. They then reached an open sea, so
extensive that its termination could not be disco-
vered, and it was believed to extend four or five
hundred square leagues. On proceeding northward,
however, they soon arrived at a very close conti-
nuous field, consisting of bay-ice compacted by drift-
ing fragments. They pushed their way through it
by the most laborious exertions,— towing, boring,
warping, and mill-dolling— & process which consists
in the use of a sort of battering-ram. Having thus
opened a path across a very extended barrier, they
came, almost beyond hope, to an open sea, which
appeared nearly unbounded, having only the ice on
the south and the land on the east. Their object
was to catch whales ; and, following their primary
purpose, they chose a west-north-west direction.
Swiftly crossing tlie short meridians of this.parallel,
they soon passed from the 10th degree of east to the
8th degree of west longitude. Their latitude was
79" 35', and the sea was still open on every side. As
whales, however. Were wanting, they changed their
tack, and ran east-north-east about 300 miles, till
they came o the 19th degree of east longitude ; and
here they found themselves in lat. 81° 30', being a
degree higher than Phipps had reached, and only
about 500 geographical miles from the Pole. Had
discovery been their object, they had now a brilliant
opportmiity; and neither master nor mate would
have been insensible to the glory of acquiring en-
larged knowledge of these utmost boundaries of the
earth. But they had been fitted out by a mercantile
body to bring home a cargo of whale oil, and this
solid purpose could not be postponed to the most
brilliant speculations of science. The sea lay vast

r

iOES.

is carried on ; but
irposc, and camo
found the v/aters
i, by much broken
r way not without
d an open sea, so
uld not be disco-
ctend four or five
eeding northward,
very close conti-
)mpacted by drift-
ir way through it
—towing, baring,
ss which consists
m. Having thus
ided barrier, they
open sea, which
ig only the ice on
ist. Their object
ng their primary
h-wost direction.
IS of this.parallel,
free of east to the
heir latitude was
»n every side. As
ley changed their
ut 300 miles, till
3t longitude ; and
. 81° 30', being a
sached, and only
1 the Pole. Had
id now a brilliant
nor mate woiUd
of acquiring en-
)oundaries of the
t by a mercantile
iiale oil, and this
•ned to the most
The sea lay vast

T

RKCENT POIAR VOYAOES.

269

«ind open before them ; but, as it contained no whales,
it behooved them to stetr their course backwards to-
wards Hakluyt's Headland, in the vicinity of which
they caught twenty-four of those valuable animals,
fl'om which were extracted S16 tons of oil.

Mr. Scoresby indulged his curiosity by landing on
some of the insular tracts which fill the depths of the
Polar sea, and clambering up the lofty steeps which
usualhr rise from their shores. Charles's Island, or
Fair Foreland, at tlie north-west of Spitzbergen, was
the first Arctic ground on which he landed ; but the
fog soon spread so thick, that he coiUd remark little
except thennmense multitudeof birds which clustered
around the rocks and precipices. Afterward, in 1818,
he landed near Mitre Cape, and undertook to reach
the summit of that singularly insulated cliff of which
it consists. Much of the ascent was over fragments
of rock so loose, that the foot in walking slid back
every step, and the party could make no progress
but by the very laborious operations of running and
leaping. The continuance of frost appears to cause
this extraordinary decomposition of the rocky sub-
stance. At one place they found a ridge so steep,
that Mr. Scoresby could seat himself across it as on
the back of a horse. They reached the summit, es-
timated at 3000 feet high, about midnight, when the
sun still shone bright on its snow-capped pinnacle,
causing such a rapid dissolution, that streams of
water were flowing around them. It is considered
remarkable, that, in this frozen region, where, even
at a moderate elevation, the mean annual temperature
must be below the freezing ^int, the highest sum-
mits should put off their wmter-covering of snow,
in which so many peaks, both of the temperate and
of the torrid zones, are perpetually enveloped. It
would appear, however, that during the short interval
of continuous summer-day, the rays of the sun,
beating perpetually on the mountain-tops, which are
raised above the fogs that surround the watery surface.
Z2

970

RECENT -POtAB TOTAOEI.

produce a deiarree of heat much greater than corres*
ponds with the latitude. Hence the general average
of the year, and especially the part which composes
the lon^ Arctic night, must be mariied by a fearful
depression.

The view from this summit is described by Mr
Scorcsby as equally grand, extensive, and beautiful.
On the east side were two finely-sheltered bays,
while the sea, unruflled by a single breeze, formed
an immense expanse to the west. The icebergs
reared their fantastic forms almost on a level with
the summits of the mountains, whose cavities they
filled, while the sun illumined, but (tould not dissolve
them. The valleys were enamelled with beds of
snow and ice, one of which extended beyond reach
of the eye. In the interior, mountains rose beyond
mountains, till they melted into distance. The
cloudless canopy above, and the position of the party
themselves, on the pinnacle of a rock, siuroimded
by tremendous precipices, conspired to render their
situation equally singular and sublime. If a frag-
ment was detached, either spontaneously or by design,
it bounded from rock to rock, raising smoke at every
blow, and setting numerous other fragments in mo-
tion, till, amid showers of stones, it reached the bot-
tom of the mountain. The descent of the party was
more difficult and perilous than the ascent. The
stones sunk beneath their steps, and rolled do^n the
mountain, and they were obliged to walk abreast,
otherwise "le foremost might have been overwhelmed
under the masses which those behind him dislodged.
Finally, to the astonishment and alarm of the sailors
beneath, Mr. Scoresby and his companions, in a part
of their descent, slid"do\vn an almost perpendicular
wall of ice, and arrived in safety at the ships. The
beach was found nearly covered with the nests of
terns, ducks, and other tenants of the Arctic air, in
some of which there were yowng, over whom the
parents kept watch, and, by loud cries and vehement

OCB.

3atcr than corres-
le general average
t which composes
iiited by a fearful

described by Mr
vc, and beautiful,
yr-sheltercd bays,
le breeze, formed
it. The icebergs
; on a level with
ose cavities they
;ould not dissolve
lied with beds of
led beyond reach
tains rose beyond
distance. The
sition of the party
rock, surrounded
!d to render their
)lime. If a frag-
jusly or by design,
ig smoke at every
fragments in mo-
t reached the bot-
t of the party was
the ascent. The
i rolled doyfti the
to walk abreast,
een overwhelmed
id him dislodged,
arm of the sailors
panions, in a part
38t perpendicular
t the ships. The
vith the nests of
the Arctic air, in
, over whom the
ies and vehement

RECENT POLAR VOYAGES.

271

gestures, sought to defend them against the gulls
and other predatory tribes hovering around. Several
sailors wlio had robbed these nests were followed to
a considerable distance with loud and violent screams.
' Mr. Scoresby, also, in 1817, landed and made an
excursion on Jan Mayen's land. The most striking
leature was the mountain Hcerenberg, wliich rears
Its head 6870 feet above the sea; and, being seen to
the distance of thirty or forty leagues, nroves a con-
spiciious landmark to the mariner, llie first object
which attracted the eye were three magnificent ice-
bergs, which rose to a very great height, stretching
iTom the base of Beerenberg to the water's edge"
1 heir usual greenish-gray colour, diversified by snow-
white patches resembluig foam, and with black
points of rock jutting out from the surface, gave them
exactly the appearance of immense cascades, which
m lalling had been fixed by the power of frost. A
party ascended a mountain which composed only
the base of Beer iiberg,yet was itself 1600 feet high,
rhey were not long in discovering that the materials
composing this eminence were entirely volcanic.
They trod only upon ashes, slag, baked clay, and
sconce ; and, whenever these substances rolled under
their feet, the ground beneath made a sound hke that
of empty metallic vessels or vaulted caverns. On
the summit they discovered a spacious cratrr, about
600 feet deep, and 700 yards in diameter, tlie bottom
of which was filled with alluvial matter, and which,
being surrounded by rugged walls of red clay half-
baked, had the appearance of a spacious castle. A
spnng of water penetrated its side by a subterranean
cavern, and disappeared in the sand. No attempt
was made to ascend Beerenberg, wliich towered in
awful grandeur, white with snow, above the region
of the clouds; but at its feet was seen another crater
surrounded by an immense accumulation of castel-
lated lava. A large mass of iron was found, that
had been smelted by the interior fires. The volcano

"ii-MIPPWilPpPWW^

373

RECENT POtAR VOYAGES.

was at this time entirely silent, but Mr. Scoreflby
next year saw smoke rising from it to a great heiglit ;
and the same phenomenon had, in 1818, been dis-
cerned by Captain Oiiyott of the Richard, who even
remarked a shining redness like the embers of a
large fire.

The most important discoveries, however, effected
by Mr. Scoresby, took place in 1822, when he sailed
in the ship Baffin, of 331 tons and 50 men, for the
whale-fishery. He departed from Liverpool on tlie
27th March, and on the 28th passed the Mull of Can-
tyre, but immediately after encountered a violent
gale, which, blowing on this dangerous coast, ol)liged
him to take shelter for ten days in Loch Ryan. This
interval of leisure was improved, according to his
laudable custom, for purposes of scientific experi-
ment ; and in this instance he had particularly m
view the improvement of the chronometers used m
navigation. On the 8th April he again set sail;
passed on the 10th the dangerous rocks and islands
of Skerivore, west of Tiree; and on the 11th, at
noon, saw the island of St. Kilda. On the Mth,
when only in lat. 64» 3(y, the cry was raised
that ice was in sight, and the mariners were soon
involved in its streams, accompanied with the usual
dense and deep obscurity of Arctic fogs. On the
morrow they were stopped by an extensive patch,
which they spent several days in vainly attempting
to double ; but at length, setting all sail on the ship,
they made their way through it in the course of an
hour. They now proceeded northward with a fair
wind, observing the brilliant phenomenon of the
Aurora Borealis, and seeing the ocean covered with
large quantities of drift-wood. On the 25th April,
in lat. 75°, they found themselves in the region of
continued day; and being now in "a fishing latitude, '
took out their boats, coiled their lines, and prepared
the harpooiis, lances, and other apparatus. On the
27th they reached the 80th degree, and were within

■T'ii'i'itfr'*^''"''^"''

i^

■itfxnir

imffmiTt \ liumUiiltifH

1

•V

TlECENT POLAR VOYAGES.

278

U Mr. Scoreflby

0 !i frreat lieight ;
, 1818, been dis-
chard, who even
he embers of a

lowever, effected
1, when he sailed
50 men, for the
Liverpool on the
the Mull of Can-
ntered a violent
)us coast, ol)liKed
,och Ryun. This
according to his
scientific expcri-
d particularly in
nometers used in
! again set sail;
ocks and islands

on the Uth, at
a. On the Itth,

cry was raised
irinera were soon
ed with the usual
ic fogs. On the

extensive patcih,
vainly attempting
II sail on the ship,

1 the course of an
iward with a fair
jnomenon of the
ean covered with
n the 25th April,
% in tlie region of
a fishing latitude,"
ines, and prepared
pi)aratus. On the
1, aud were within

ten miles of Hakluyt'g Headland without having yet
felt any frost. Ontinuiiig to approach the Poh-,
Mr. Scoresby reached, on the asth, the main northern
loe at the same point where it had been found by
Lord Mulgrave. He proposed to run along it to the
eastward, in hopes of reaching a good fishing station,
but the state of the wind compelled him to turn in
tlie opposite direction. On the Cth May the first
whale was taken. On the 9th a heavy gale from tlio
north-east produced symptoms of cold, similar to
those felt in the extremity of an Arctic winter ; the
skin adhering to metallic substances; water spilt
within three feet of the cabin fire converted into ice ;
even a mug of good beer nearly frozen at the very
foot of the stove. Mr. Scoresby's situation was
painful; the sea was covered with such a dense
stratum of frost-rime, reaching to the height of 50
feet, that nothing could be seen from the deck : and
lie could not guide the ship without mounting the
topmast, wliere the view was clear, but the tcmiwra-
ture was from 3 to 8 degrees below zero, which the
gale rendered most intensely piercing. Soon after,
being involved in floating ice, he had a most difficult
(lourse to steer, though he observes that, to a true
navigator, the high exertion of nautical skill required
to perform the continual evolutions and changes of
course necessary amid floating ice, is productive of
peculiar enjoyment; and accordingly he extricated
liimself without any material damage.

Mr. Scoresby, finding no whales in his present
station, determined upon a change. For some time
past, these high latitudes, probably in consequence
of having been so long Jished, had become nearly
unproductive, and the only good cargoes were ob-
tained by penetrating through the ice to the eastern
shores of Greenland. A trip in this q\iarter coin-
cided with another object in which Mr. Scoresby
felt peculiar interest. The whole range of this coast
was absolutely imknown, unless at a figw points,

274

nKCENT POLAR VOYAOE*'.

which tho Dutnh had approiirhed and named ; and
it formed a coiitintioiis lino with lh;U on which the
colonies of Old Greenland, the subject of much in-
terest and controversy, were supposed to have been
situated.

In this course Mr. Scoresby was amused by strikinc;
instances of the refractive power of the Polar
atmosphere, when acting upon ice and other objirts
discerned through its medium. The rugged surfaiie
assumed the forms of castles, obelisks, and spires,
which here and there were sometimes so linked
tojfether, as to present the semblance of an extensive
and crowded city. At other times it resembled a
forest of naked trees ; and fancy scarcely required
an effort to identify its varieties with the productions
of human art ; — sculptured colossal forms, porticoes
of rich and regular architecture,— even with the shapes
of lions, bears, horses, and other animals. Ships
were seen inverted, and suspended high in the air,
and their hulls often so magnified as to resemhlo
huge edifices. Objects really beneath the horizon
were raised into view in a most extraordinary man-
ner. It seems positively ascertained, that points in
the coast of Greenland, not above 3000 or 4000 feet
high, were seen at the distance of ICO miles. The
extensive evaporation of the melting ices, with the
unequal condensation produced by streams of cold
air, are considered by Mr. Scoresby as tlie chief
sources of this extraordinary refraction.

It was on the 8th of .lune that, in 74^ 6' north la-
titude, a vast range of land was discovered, extend-
ing from north to south, about ninety miles, and of
which the most northerly point was concluded to be
that named on the charts Gale Hamkes' Land, while
the most southerly appeared to be Hudson's Hold-
with-Hope. Mr. Scoresby's ambition, however, to
mount some of its bold crags, which no European
foot had ever trod, was defeated by the mterposition
of an impassable barrier of ice ; and a similar one

L

VAOKK.

h\ and named ; nnd
\\ ih;it on which the
subject of much in-
pposed to have been

s amuHod by strikinc;
iwer of the Polar
ce and other objects
The niprgcd surfarro
obelisks, and spires,
)metimeB so linked
ance of an extensive
mes it resembled a
!y scarcely required
vith the productions
ssal forms, porticoes
■even with the shapes
ler animals. Ships
ided high in the air,
fied as to resemblo
l)eneath the horizon
extraordinary man-
;aiued, that points in
»ve 3000 or 4000 feet
of ICO miles. The
lelting ices, with the
by streams of cold
)resby as the chief
fraction.

t, in 74^ C north la-
discovered, extend-
ninety miles, and of
was concluded to be
Hamkes' Land, while
I be Hudson's Hold-
abition, however, to
which no European
by the interposition
; and a similar on«

RTECENT POLAR V0TA0K8.

975

havinir closed in behind him, he was obliRcd to sad
back and forward for severiU days throuKh a narrow
chaniul. DurinR this interval he had a jfood opppr-
» unity of takinat the beariuRS and directions of this
ffreat line of coast. The latitude, as given in the
maps, was tolerably correct, and was indeed his only
^riiide in tracing the positions; for the longitude, after
tlu! most careful observation, was found to differ
seven degrees from the best charts, and ten degrees
from those usually supFtlicd to the whale-fishers.
This const was generally mountainous, iiigged, and
barren, bearing much resemblance to that of Spitz-
bcrgen, though less covered with snow. It could not
be fully ascertained whether some low ground might
not be interposed between the sea and the mountains ;
but their aspect, and the general analogy of the Arc-
tic shores, suggested the idea that these mighty clUls
dipped perpendicularly into the waves.

Mr. Scoresby followed the usual system of naming
the prominent objects, either after persons eminent
in science or after his private friends. The two prin-
cipal bays or inlets were designated from Captain
Kater and Sir Walter Scott ; while two spacious fore-
lands or projecting peninsulas, the former supposed
to be an island, were assigned to Dr. WoUaston and
Sir Kvcrard Home. Other bays and capes were be-
stowed upon Sir Thomas Brisbane, Dr. Brinkley,
Colonel Beaufoy, Dr. Holland, Mr. Herschel, and
some of the author's personal friends. Afterward,
obtaining the view of some smaller bays to the south,
he was enabled thus to compliment Sir George Mac-
kenzie, Sir Charles Giesecke, Baron Humboldt, M.
de la Place, and M. Freycinet.

Mr. Scoresby now made a movement eastward
in search of whales, of which he found no traces in
the vicinity of land. Tliis change of purpose was
attended with a very distressuig circumstance. Wd-
liam Carr, one of his most expert harpooners, and a
tine active feliww.liud struck a whale, wluch flew oil

ff9

RECKNT POLAR VOVAOU.

with such rapidity, that the line wna jnrked out of
itn place, and threatened the thnkini; of the boat.
Having snatched tiie mpo to replace it in the pioper
position, he was caught by a sudden tunj, instantly
unisrafed overboard and plunged under water to rise
no more. The boat havuig at once righted itself, tlin
sailors looked roiind and asked, "Where is Carri"
One man cmly had seen him disappear, hut so instiui-
tancously, that he had merely missed the olycct,
without l)ftiniT alile to say how. The distress and
ajritationof the survivors afforded the stricken whale
a resjMte, of wiiich he availed himself to effect his
escajje. Mr. Scoresby, deeply distressed, took the
opportunity next Lord's day of railing the attention
of his crew to their own most importan*, interests,
and to their preparation for such a catastrophe as
had befallen their comrade ; on which occasion all
the sailors seemed much affected.

About a month was passed in searching for whales
at a little distanct' from the shore, and several of
these aninuils, as well as narwale, were taken ; but
as they ceased to appear, it was resolved again to
stand in for the land. On the 19th July the navi- •
gators came in view of a range of coast, of a very
bold and peculiar character, extending about forty
miles. It presented a mountain-chain from three to
four thousand feet high, rising at once from the
beach in precipitous cliffs, which tenninated in num-
berless peaks, cones, and pyramids, with sharp aiul
rugged rooks everywhere jutting out from their sid'js.
From one of the mountains rose six or seven tall
parallel chimneys, above each other ; one of which,
crowned with two vertical towers, was called Church
Mount. This coiist received the u.urie of Liverpool ;
while to the mountains was given thtil of Roscoe.
The range of shore terminated at Cape Htwlgson ;
bnyorid which, however, steering south-west, they
d(;scried three other piomontorjes, to which were
uuccessively given the names of Ca|)e Lister, Cape

mam.

vrnn jnrked out of
nkitif? of tho boat,
iure it in the pioper
Idcn turn, inntuntly
under water to rise
:;e righted itself, the
"Whore is Carrt"
ip«mr, hut so instun'
missed the ol)icct,
Tho distress ami
I the striclccn whale
niself to effeet liiH
istressed, took the
dhni; the attention
nportan*, interests,
h a catastrophe an
which occasioti all

arching for whales
ire, and several of
s, were taken ; but
resolved again to
19th July the navi- •
of coast, of a very
mding about forty
;hain from three to

at once from the
enninated in num-
8, with sharp and
ut from their sitVjs.
I six or seven tall
ler J one of which,
was called Church
i.imeof Liverpool;
n that of Roscoe.
it Cape HcMlgson;

south-west, they
s, to which were
[ya|)e Lister, Cape

RKCBN1 POLAR VOVAOKt.

277

flwainnon, and Cape Tobin. Hero Mr. Scoresby
took, fur the flrsl time, the opportunity of liUuliuK,
when he found tiie b«a(!h nuich lower thiui that further
t„- the north, and consiAing in a Kieat nuasuie of
loi)s<! stony hills. After some examination, he camo,
near Capo Swainson, to an enclosure formed by pa-
rallel walls, similai to those which the KNtpmnaux
eiiimtru(;t for liieir summer huts, and within which
were hollow structures like bee-hives, such as they
use for stores. A narrow scrutiny showed remains
of fuel, charred drift-wood, half-burned moss and
ashes; which last was considered as indicaliuK tiiu
place to have Injcn occupied ut no distant ptuiod.
There were also found instruments of wood and
bone, one of them tipped with iron.

Kesuming their course at sea, and still holding
south-westward, there now appeared a spucinus mlet,
to which, ia looking upwards, no termination could
be seen. Mr. Scoresby, while penetrating this iidet,
discovered another sound br.mching to the northward,
'ii'und the Livefj)ool coast, and supposed to form it
nilo an island, 'llic opposite shore of this entr<uico
was named Jameson's Land, from the eminent i)ro-
fessor of natural history at Edinburgh, lieyond
Capo Hooker, tho southern point of Jameson's Land,
another large inlet stretched towards the north, to
whi(!h was given the name of Captain Hasil Hall. It
had every appearance of convertmg J<>mcson's Land
also into an island. The coast to the westward of
this last approa(;h received the name of Milne's Land.
Between Cape Leslie, the northern point of Milne's
Land, and Cape Stevenson, on the opposite sIiore»
the original opening continued to stretch into the
interior, without any appearance of a termination.
Combining this observation with the position of
Jacob's Bight in the same latitude on the western
coast, which Sir Cliarles Giesecke traced to the
heiirht of 150 miles, wlicre it opened into a sort of
inland sea, there a|!])cared a strou"? presumption, that,
A u

278

RECENT POLAR VOYAGES.

instead of the continuous mass of land which our
maps represent, Greenland composes only an im-
mense archipelago of islands. To this great mlet,
the entrance of which was bounded by Cape Tobin
on the north, and Cape Brewster on the south, Mr.
Scoresby gave the name of his fiithtr, though poste-
rity will probably be apt to associate with himself
the name of " Scoresby's Sound."

These coasts, especially that of Jameson s Land,
were found richer in plants and verdure than any
others seen by our navigator within the Arctic circle,
and almost meriting the appellation of Gree.nland.
The grass rose in one place to a foot in height, and
there were meadows of several acres that appeared
nearly equal to any in England. Nowhere could a
human being be discovered; but everywhere there
were traces of recent and even frequent inhabitation.
At the foot of a range of cliffs, named after Mr.
Neill, secretary to the Wernerian Society, were
several hamlets of some extent. The huts appear
to have been winter-abodes, not constricted of snow
slabs like those of the Esquimaux of Hudson's Bay,
but resembhng those of the Greenlanders, dug deep
in the ground, entered by a long winding passage or
funnel, and roofed with a wooden frame overlaid
with moss and earth. The mansion had thus the
appearance of a slight hillock, and seemed quite an
underground habitation. Near the hamlets were
excavations in the earth, serving as graves, vvhere
implements of hunting, found along with the bones
of the deceased, proved the prevalence here of the
general belief of savage nature, that the employments
of man in the future life will exactly resemble those
of the present. There was one wooden coflSn, which
the author was willing to believe might mark a rem-
nant of European colonization. It was thought sin-
gidar. that the dwellers on this coast should have
heea tecently so numerous, and yet not one of them
left ; but probably these were winter-quarters, wliile

'«

IKS.

land which our
ses only an im-

this great inlet,
d by Cape Tobin
u the south, Mr.
tr, though poste-
ate with himself

Jameson's Land,
erdure than any
the Arctic circle,
m of Greenland.
Dt in height, and
res that appeared
Nowhere could a
■verywhere there
lent inhabitation,
named after Mr.
n Society, were
The huts appear
isl^ictcd of snow
if Hudson's Bay,
anders, dug deep
inding passage or
a frame overlaid
ion had thus the
I seemed quite an
le hamlets were
as graves, Avhere
ig with the bones
;ence here of the
, tiie employments
ly resemble those
odencoflSn, which
light mark a rem-
; was thought sin-
oast should have
t not one of them
er-quarlcrs, wlide

RECENT POLAR VOYAOES.

279

during the summer the natives had repaired into the
interior, where they might find those land-animals
which retreat to tlie southward during the more
rigorous season.

On emerging from this large sound and proceeding
southward, Mr. Scoresby discovered another conti-
nuous range of coast, which afforded to him a bay
to be named after Mr. Wallace, and three capes after
Messrs. Russell, Pillans, and Grahr.m, eminent pro-
fessors in the university of Edinburgh; also an
island named after Captain Manby; another after
Dr. Henry, and a cape after Mr. Dalton, two distin-
guished chemists at Manchester; also another cape
after Dr. John Barclay of Edinburgh.

Disappointed as to any appearance of whales on
this coast, Mr. Scoresby again steered out to sea and
to the northward. Icebergs surrounded him, amount-
ing at one place to the number of five hundred.
This course brought him in a few days within sight
of lands stretching more northerly than those recently
surveyed, and connecting them with the others which
he had first discovered. There appeared two large
territories, seemingly insular, to which were given
the names of Canning and Traill. Between them
was a most spacious inlet, honoured with the name
of Sir Humphrey Davy. On penetrating this open-
ing there arose several points of land, probably
islands, which afforded a range of mountains, made
commemorative of Werner, the celebrated geologist ;
a smaller ridge was assigned to Dr. Fleming; after
which were appropriated Capes Biot, Buache, Carne-
gie. He landed on Traill Island, and with incredible
toil clambered to the top of a hill, where he hoped
to have found a small plain containing a few speci-
mens of Arctic vegetation; but this summit was
steeper than the most narrowly-pitched roof of a
house, and, liad not the opposite side been a li'tle
smoother, he would have found much difRcultj in
sliding down. Beyond Traill Island, and separaiei

mem

RECENT POLAR VOYAGES.

from it by a considerable inlet named after Lord
Mountnorrif, was another coast ; the pointed extre-
mity of which n^ceived the narhe of Captain Parry.
This promontory beinjf at no great distance from
Cape Freycinet, which had been seen in the first sur-
vey, there was thus completed the observation of a
raii|D;e of four hundred miles of coast, formerly known
only by the most imperfect rumours and notices, and
which might therefore be strictly considered as a new
discovery.

Mr. Scoresby aftenvard approached more closely
to Canning Island, and penetrated a sound between
it and the main, connected apparently with Hurry's
Inlet, and where he gave names to Capes Allan,
Krusenstem, and Buch.

Our navigator would have been happy to examine
more of the Greenland coast, having on one occasion
had a fair prospect of being able to run southward
to Cape Farewell ; but the ship was not his own, and
his destination being to catch whales, compelled lum
to turn in another direction. He had met hitherto
with much disappointment in this pursuit ; and, the
season being far advanced, was apprehensive of
being obliged to return with a deficient cargo. But
on the 15th of August numerous whales appeared
round the ship : of these five were struck and three
taken, which at once rendered the ship fulUJishtd,
and placed him among the successful adventurers
of the year. He could return, therefore, with
satisfactory feelings ; and the pleasure of the voyage
homeward was only alloyed by the occurrence of
a violent storm off Lewis, in which Sam Chambers,
one of the most esteemed of his sailors, was washed
overboard.

To these discoveries of Mr. Scoresby some addi-
tions were made next year by Captain Clavering,
who was employed by the Admiralty to convey Cap-
tain Sabine to different stations in the Arctic sea, for
the purpose of making observatio'ns on the compara-

i

OES.

lamcd after Lord
the pointed extre-
of Captain Parry.
;at distance from
len in the first 8ur-
observation of a
t, formerly known
s and notices, and
onsideredasanew

;hed more closely

a sound between

intly with Hurry's

I to Capes Allan,

happy to examine
ig on one occasion
to run southward
is not his own, and
ies, compelled liim
3 had met hitherto
I pursuit ; and, the
I apprehensive of
icient cargo. But
1 whales appeared
e struck and three
[le B)up Jidl^shed,
essful adventurers
n, therefore, with
sure of the voyage
the occurrence of
eh Sam Chambers,
ailors, was waslicd

oresby some addi-
^aptain Clavering,
dty to convey Cap-
the Arctic sea, for
08 on the compara^

RECENT POLAR VOYAGES.

281

tive length of the pendulum as affected by the prin-
ciple of attraction.

Captain Clavering sailed on the ."Jd May (1833),
and on the 2d June arrived at Hammcrfest, where he
landed Captain Sabine with the tents and instru-
ments. The observiitions being competed, he sailed
on the 83d, readied the northern coast of Si)itzber
gen, and fixed on a small island between Vogel Sang
and Cloven CliH" for farther scientific operations.
While Captain Sabine was (iiiployed upon the island,
he endeavoured to push into a more northern lati-
tude ; but after great exertion, he could not reach
beyond 80° 20'. Accompanied by the former, whom
he had now rejoined, and whose observations were
completed, he left this coast on the 22d July, and
steered for the eastern shores of Greenland, of which
he came in view on the 5th August. The scene ap-
peared the most desolate he had ever beheld. The
mountains rose to the height of several thousand
feet, without a vestige of vegetation, or the appear-
ance of any living creature on the earth or in the
air. Even the drenry waste of Spitzbergen appeared
a paradise to tlii*. He landed Captain Sabine and
the scientific apparatus on two islands detached
from the eastern shore of the continent, which he
called the Pendulum Islands, and of which the out-
ermost point is marked by a bold headland, rising to
the height of 3000 feet.

While Captain Sabine was employed in his course
of observations. Captain Clavering surveyed a part
of the coast which lay to the northward, being the
first which Mr. Scoresby saw. It was at some dis-
tance, with an icy barrier lnteq)osed ; but was found
indented with deep and spacious bays, suspected
even to penetrate so far as to convert all this range
of coast into a cluster of large islands. The inlet,
which the former navigator had assigned to Sir
Walter Scott, was believed by Clavering to be
that discovered by the Dutch mariner Gale Iiamk<;s ;
A u 2

MS

HPCENT POtAR V0TAOE8,

but we have not ventured to remove this last from
the more northerly position fixed by Mr. Scoresby.
Other openini^ which occurred in proceeding to-
wards the north were named, by the Captain. Fos-
tor's Bay, Ardincaple, and Roseneath Inlets; and
he saw bold and high land still stretching in this di-
rection as far as the seventy-sixth degree of latitude.
In regard to the natives. Captain Clavering was
more fortunate than his predecessor, who saw only
their deserted habitations. On landing at a point
on the southern coast of Sir Walter Scott's Inlet,
he received intelligence of Esquimaux having been
Seen at the distance of a mile, and hastened thither
with one of his officers. The natives on seeing
them immediately ran to the top of some rocks ;
but the English advanced, made fnendly signs, depo-
sited a mirror and a pair of worsted mittens at the-
foot of the precipice, and then retired. The Esqui."
maux came down, took these articles, and earned
them away to the place of their retreat ; but they
soon allowed the strangers to approach and accost
them, though their .hands when shaken were found
to tremble violently. By degrees confidence was es-
tablished, and thev followed the English to their
own tent, five feet high and twelve in circumference,
composed of wood and whalebone. Their aspect
and conformations; their boats and implements, ex-
actly corresponded to those observed by Captains
Parry and Lyon in Hudson's Bay. A child, after
being diligently cleared of its thick coating of dirt
and oil, was found to have a tawny copper-coloured
skin. The natives were astonished and alarmed be-
yond mea.sure by the effect of firearms. A seal
being shot, one of them was sent to fetch it. He
examined it all over till he found the hole made by
the ball, when, thruf^'ing his finger into it, he set up
a shout of astonishment, dancing and capering in
the most extravagant manner. Another was pre-
vailed upon to fire a pistol ; but instantly on hearing
the report, started and run back into the tent.

1.

OES.

ve this last from
)y Mr. Scoresby.
n proceeding to-
the Captain. Fos-
eath Inlets; and
etching in this di-
legree of latitude,
in Clavering was
)r, who saw only
nding at a point
ter Scott's Inlet,
aux having been
hastened thither
atives on seeing
of some rocks ;
indly signs, depo-
3d mittens at ther
red. The KaqaU
cles, and carried
■etreat; but they
roach and accost
iken were found
onfidence was 03-
English to their
n circumference,
3. Their aspect
implements, ex-
vedby Captains
'. A child, after
k coating of dirt
copper-coloured
and alarmed be-
earms. A seal
to fetch it. He
he hole made by
into it, he set up
and capering in
nother was pre-
anlly on hearing
a the tent.

RECENT POLAR V0VA0E8.

283

The observations were not completed till the be-
ginning of September, when the season was too late
to allow Captain Clavering to gratify his wish of
making a run to the northward. Nor. did he extri-
cate liimself from the ice without some severe
shocks; yet, after spending six weeks at Dron-
theim, he entered the Thames in the middle of De-
cember.

We have departed somewhat from the regular
order of time, for the purpose of giving in a con-
nected view the observations and discoveries of Mr:
Scoresby, and the additions to them by Captain Cla-
vering. Meantime, however, another grand attempt
had been made to explore the depths of the Polar
sea. Combined with Captain Ross's mission in
search of the north-west passage, the Dorothea and
Trent were placed under the command of Captain
Buchan, with the view of pushing direct to the Pole,
and endeavouring not only to reach that grand boun-
dary, but to pass across it to India,— a voyage which,
from the relative position of these two parts of the
globe, would have been much shorter by this route
than by any other. It was contended by the sup-
porters of this undertaking, that the failures of Hud-
son, Fotherby, and Phipps had occurred in conse-
quence of their being entangled in the winding shores
and bays of the northern coast of Spitzbergen ; that
the production of ice took place chiefly in the neigh-
bourhood of land : and that, by keeping decidedly in
the midst of the ocean-channel, navigators would,
instead of a boundless and unbroken field, find an
open and navigable sea.

Captain Buchan having set out eaily in the season
of 1818, came on the 97th May in view of Cherie
Island. Without pausing there, he stretched along
the western coast of Spitzbergen, to the eightieth
degree of north latitude, where he encountered a se-
vere storm, which separated his vessels for a time,
and obliged them to seek shelter in Magdalena Bay.

m

i.Miiwi,im.

284

KECEKT POLAR VOTAOSa.

On the 10th June he met several Greenland diips,
and was informed by the maaters, that in the great
sea to tlie westwarcf, to which he had looked with
the greatest hope, tiie ice was completely impene-
trable. He determined, therefore, to turn Hakluyt's
Headland, and proceed nortii-eastward in the track
ultimately followed by Lord Mulgrave. On his way
he was soon completely beset, being hemmed in by
fields of ice ten or twelve miles in circumference,
amid which icebergs rose in the rudest and most fan-
tastic forms, appearing like specks in a boundless
plain of alabaster. On the 2(!th June the navigators
reached Fair Haven, situated between Vogel Sang
and Cloven Cliff. Being detained here for some
time, they found numerous herds of the walnis and
the deer, and killed, after hard combats, several of
the former, one weighing a ton ; while of the latter
they despatched with ease from forty-five to fifty,
the average weight of which was ISOlbs. Being at
length unable to move forward, they reached the la-
titude of SO** 32', where they were beset for three
weeks. On. the 89th July, the Dorothea was again
brought into open water ; but on the 30th she was
exposed to a tremendous gale, which blew her
upon the main body of the ice, with a force which
she was unable to resist. In this awful situation,
the crew, having no time to deliberate, determined to
tirni the helm so that the wind might drive the ship's
head into the ice, where, it was possible, they might
find a secure lodgement even amid this feanul tem-
pest. The helm was so placed ; and a solenm awe
impressed the mariners during the few moments
which were to decide, whether the Dorothea was to
be safely moored, or to be dashed to pieces. She
struck with a terrible shock, which was repeated
frequently in the course of half an hour. By that
time she had forced her way more than twice her
own length into the body of the ice, where she
remained immoveably fixed. By-and-by the gal9

OES.

nFCBNT POLAR VOTAOES.

285

i Greenland sliips,
, that in the great
I had looked with
tmpletely impene-
to turn Hakluyt's
tvvard in the track
ave. On his way
ng hemmed in by
in circumference,
dest and most Tan-
ks in H boundless
me the navigators
ween Vogcl Sang
;d here for some
of the walrus and
mbats, several of
while of the latter
orty-five to fifty,
120lbs. Being at
ey reached the la-
ire beset for three
)rothea was again
I the 30th she was
which blew her
ith a force which
is awful situation,
ate, determined to
ht drive the ship's
issible, they might
d this feanul tem-
and a solenm awe
the few momenta
B Dorothea was to
id to pieces. She
ich was repeated
in hour. By that
re than twice her
e ice, where she
^-and-by the gal9

moderated, and she was again brought into an
open sea ; but she had been so shattered, and the
water entered by such nujnerous leaks, that scarcely
any effort could preserve her from sinking. Next
morning, however, being fine, the crew with much
dilficultyworkedlierround to the harbour of Smee-
renberg. There she wiis so far refitted as to be able,
in the beginning of September, to take the sea, and
on the 10th October came in view of the coast of
England, near Flamborough Head.

No farther attempt was made to reach the Pole
in »/wp» ; but, after a certain interval, a plan was de-
vised to push towards that grand boundary in vehicles
wafted over the frozen surface of the ocean. It was
Mr. Scoresby by whom this scheme was first sug-
gested. In a memoir read to the Wemerian Society,
he endeavoured to prove that such a journey was
neither so visionary nor so very perilous as it might
appear to those who were unacquainted with the
Arctic regions. The Polar Sea in some meridians
would, he doubted not, present one continued sheet
of ice ; the inequalities of which, if tolerably smooth,
would oppose no insurmountable barrier. Intervals
of open water would be more troublesome ; yet the
vehicle, being made capable of serving as a boat,
might either sail across, or make a circuit round
them. This conveyance, he remarked, ought to be
a sledge formed of those light materials used by the
Esquimaux in the construction of their boats, and
drawn either by reindeer or dogs. The former ani-
mals are so fleet, that, in favourable circumstances,
they might go and return in a fortnight, while the
best dog-team would require five or six weeks ; the
latter, however, would be more tractable, and better
fitted for skimming over thin or broken ice. Though
the cold would be very severe, yet as no very
alarming increase occurred between the seventieth
and eightieth degrees of latitude, there was little
ground to apprehend that in the other ten degrees.

IT'

980

RECENT POLAR T0YA0E8.

roachinjf to the Pole, it shoukl become insupportable
For provisions wore recommended portable soups,
potted meats, and othci substances, which, with little
weight, contained iiiiich nourishment.

These BUKKtsitions did not for a considerable time
attract attention ; but at length Captain Fairy, after
his three brilliant voyages to the north-west, finding
reason to suspect that his farther progress in that
direction was hopeless, turned his enterprising views
elsewhere, and conceived the ambition of penetrating
over the frozen sea to tlie Pole. Combining Mr.
Scoresby's ideas with his own observations, and with
a series of reflections derived by Captain Franklin
from his extensive experience. Captain Parry formed
and submitted ^o the Lords of the Admiralty the plan
of an expedition over the Polar ice. Their Lord-
ships, having referred this proposal to the council and
committee of the lloyal Society, and received a favour-
able report as to the advantages which science might
derive from such a journey, applied themselves with
their usual alacrity to supply the Captain with every
thing which could assist him in this bold undertaking.
The Hecla was employed to carry him as far as a
ship could go, and with her were sent two boats, to
be dragged or navigated, according to circumstances,
along the unknown and desolate expanse between
Spitzbergen and the Pole. These boats, being built
of siHJcessive ihin planks of ash, fir, and oak, with
sheets of water-proof canvass and stout felt inter-
posed, united the greatest possible degree of strength
and elasticity. The interior was made capacious and
flat-flooied, somewhat as in troop-boats, and a runner
attached to each side of the keel fitted them to be
drawn along the ice like a sledge. Wheels were
also taken onboard, in case their use should be found
practicable.

The adventurers started early. On the 27th March,
1827, they were towed down the river by the Comet
steamboat, and on the 4th April weighed from the

OCR.

me insimportablc.
d portable soaps,
which, with little
int.

considerable time
[)tain Fairy, after
orth-west, findiiifr
proKTCRS in that
interprisinjy views
ion of penetrating

Combining Mr.
•vations, and with
Captain Franklin
tain Parry formed
idmiralty the plan
ce. Their Lord-
to the council and
receivedafavour-
ich science might
I themselves with
iptain with every
bold undertaking,
him as far as a
ent two boats, to
\,o circumstances,
Bxpanse between
)oat8, being built
fir, and oak, with

stout felt inter-
egree of strength
ide capacious and
lats, and a runner
itted them to be
'.. Wheels were
e should be found

n the 27th March,
rev by the Comet
cighed from the

nrcENT rotAR voyaoeb.

2^7

Nore On the 19th they entered the fine harbour
of Hammerfest in Norway, wliere they ri'mained two
or tliree weeks, and took on board eight reindeer,
with a quantity of picked moss for their provender.
Quitting Norway on the lllh May, they soon found
themselves among the ice, and met a number of
whale-ships. On the 13th they were in view of
Hakluyt's Headland, when the Captain endeavwired
to push his way to the north-east in the track of
Phii)j)s. The vessel, however, was soon (completely
beset, and even enclosed in a large floe, which
carried her slowly eastward alone with it. As every
day was now ah irretrievable loss. Captain Parry
became impatient in the extreme, and formed a nlan
to push off northward, leaving the ship to find a har-
bour for herself, where he trusted on his return to
trace her out. But the survey of the route in the
proposed direction was most discouraging. In con-
s<;(]ueiicc of some violent agitation in the preceding
season, the ice had been piled up in innumerable
hummocks, causing the sea to resemble a stone-ma-
son's yard, except that it contained masses six times
larger. This state of the surface, which would have
rendered it impossible to drag the boats more than a
mile in the day, was found to prevail for a considera-
ble space with little interruption. The current mean-
time continued to carry thi ship, with the floe to
Avhich it was attached, slowly to the eastward, till it
brouglit her into shoals in the vicinity of ice, where
she (T-ounded in six fathoms ; after which Captain
. . 'v felt it quite out of the Question to leave her
till she was lodged in a secure harbour. He worked
on J'radually, however, to the east and north, passing
Waiden Island, and obtaining a full view of the
Seven Islands ; but here the sea was covered with
one unbroken land floe attached to all the shores,
which destroyed every hope of finding a harbour
among these islands. No choice was then left but
to steer back for the coast of Spitzbergcn, where he

988

MKCENT POLAR VOYAGES.

unexpectedly lighted on a very excellent harbour,
naniod by hiin Hecla Cove, and which proved lo be
part of the bay to which an old Dutch chart had
Kiven the name of Treurcnbertf. It was now tho
20tii uf June, and the best of the Hoasou had been
Bpent in beating backwards and forwards on tlioso
icQ-bound shores ; he tlierefore resolved, witJiuut
farther delay, to prosecute the main object of his
enterprise. Scarcely hoping to reach the Pole, he
determined, at all events, to pusli as far nortii us
possible. He took with liiin seventy one days' pro
vision, consisting of pcmmiciui, (beef diried smd
pounded), biscuit, cocoa, and rum. Spirits of wine,
as the most portable and concentrated fuel, was
alone used for that purpose. There were provided
changes of warm clothing, tliick fur-dresses lor sleep-
ing in, and strong Esquimaux boots. The reindeer
and also the wheels were given up at once as altogether
useless in tho present jrugged state of the ice; but
four sledges, constructed out of tho Esquimaux
snow-shoes, proved very convenient for dragging
along the bafgngu.

On tho 2'2d June the expeditionary party quitted
tho ship, and betook Ukeniselvea to the boats amid
the cheers of their associates. Although all the
shores were still frozen, they had an open sea, calm
and smooth as a mirror, through which they sailed
slowly but agreeably with their loaded vessels.
After proceeding thus for about eighty miles, tljey
reached, not as they had hoped, the main body of the
ice, but a surface intermediate between ice and water.
This C3uld neither be walked nor sailed over, but
was to He passed by the two methods alternately.
However, on such a strange and perilous plan it be^
hooved them to land, in order to commence their
laborious and monotonous journey towards tlie Pole.

Captain Parry describes in an interesting munncv
the smgular mode of Inivclling to which they were
coini)elled to adhere. The fast step was lo lunvert

loeb.

txcellont harbour,

^lich proved to be

Dutch uhurt h<id

It was now thu

Houaou had beoii

urwurds on thesu

rectolved, without

laui object of his

lacli thu Pole, ]m

i as far nortii as

ity one days' pro

(beef dried iuid

Spirits of wine,

ntrated fuel, was

re were provided

-dresses for shiep-

tR. The reindeer

once as altogether

) of the ice ; but

the Esquimaux

ent for dragging

lary party quitted
> the boats amid
Although all the
in ouen sea, calm
rhich they sailed
' loaded vessels,
ghty miles, they
mam body of the
)en ice ana water*
sailed over, but
hods alteniately.
rilouB plan it be^
commence their
lowards the Pole,
teresting manner
which they were
p was to couveit

RKHnCNT POLAR TOYAORB

989

night into day ; to bcfftn their journey in the evenintf
and end it in the mominfir. Thus, while they had
quite enough of light, they avoided the snow*glarO
nnd the bliiidnnss which it UNually produces ; they
iiad the ice drier and harder beneath them; and they
enjoyed the greatest warmth, when it was most
wanted, during the period of sleep : they were only
n little annoyed by frequent and denser fogs. Thus
their notions of night and day became inverted.
They rose in what they called the morning, but
wliich was really late in the evening, and having
performed their devotions, breakfasted on warm co«
coa and biscuit. They then drew on their boots,
usually either wet or hard frozen ; and which, though
perfectly dried, would have been equally soaked in
fifteen minutes. The party then travelled five or six
hours, and a little after midnight stopped to dine.
Tliey now performed an equal journey in what was
called the afternoon ; and In the evening, that is, at
tin advanced morning hour, halted as for the night.
They then applied themselves to obtain rest and
comfort, put on dry stockings and fur-boots, cooked
something warm for supper, smoked their pipes, told
over their exploits, and, forgetting the toils of the
day, enjoyed an interval of ease and gayety. Then,
wrapping themselves in their ftir-cloaks, they lay
down in the boat, rather too close together perhaps,
but with very tolerable comfort. The sound or a
bugle roused them at night to their breakfast of
cocoa, and to a repetition of the same round.

The progress for several days was most slow and
laborious. Thefloes were small, exceedingly rough,
and with interposed lanes of water, which could
not be crossed without unloading the bo;its. It wa«
commonly necessary to convey these and the stores
by two stages, when the sailors, being obliged to re-
turn for the second portion, had to go three times
over the same ground ; sometimes they were obliged
(o make three stages, and thus to pass over it five

lpli»

990

RECENT eomt. VOTAOKi.

timet. Tliore fi '1 as much ram (l« they had expo-
ricrK^ed durini( ii, whiile cuurHu of spven yean
ill 11 lower liititiKle. A ^r'^U dnsil of the i( (i over
whicli they triivellcd wiu formed into numberlcsa
im)((uhir iietMlle-liito eryutals, MtaiidiiiK upwurdH, and
|)oint»'d ttt both ( iuln. Tlio horizonttti surface of
tiiiH part had Moinetinieii t>ie appcianuiee of (crueniith
velvet, while the vertical wciionH, when ia a com.
jKU't state, renoMihlod the inoNt beautiful i»atin-«nar,
and aubtmtos when Roi'ig to pieircM. 'I'henc iKiculiar
weHgeH, it was supposed, were produeed l)y the drops
«f rain piereinj? throuKli the sup«;riloiitl ice. Tho
needles at first afforded tolerably firm fixHinK; hut
becoming always more loose and moveable as thu
Bummur advanced, they at last cut the lioots and
feet as if thev had been penknives. Soinctiinei, too,
there arose nummocks so elevated and rugged that
the boats could only be iHirne over them, in a di-
rection almost i)erpendicular, by those formidable
operations called "a standing pull and a bowlino
haul." The result of all this was, that a severe ex-
ertion of five or six hours did not usually produce a
progress p( above a mile and a half or two miles,
and that in a winding direction ; so that, after having
entered upon the ice on the a4th June, in latitude 8l
degrees 13 minutes, the3r found themselves on the Si9th
only in 81 degrees 23 minutes, having thus made only
about eight miles of direct northing. Captain Parry
Boon relinquished all hope of reaching the Polej
however it was resolved to push on as far as possilde.
The party came at length to somewhat smoother
ice and larger floes, and made rather better progress.
While the boats were landing on one of these, the
commander and Lieutenant Ross usually pushed on
to the other end to ascertain the best course. On
reaching the extremity, they commonly mounted
the largest hummock, whence they beheld a scene of
which nothing could exceed the dreariness. The eye
rested only upon ice- -uid a sky hid in dense and dis-

ITAOK4.

!)s they had expo-
se of wven yoani
"il of the i( (I over
•1 into tiumberlcsn
iiiliiii; upwunlM, anil
rizunttti Hiirfacn of
[iiiriincc of (('■L'enisth
iH, whun in a ctrm*
leautiful Hatin-imir,
!M. 'I'hcnc iieculiar
aduced hy the dropH
p»;rfloiiil ice. Th«
y tirni fiM)tinK ; hut
ul moveable as thu
cut the iHMits and
I. Soinctiinei, too,
ed and rugiored that
iver them, in a di-
y those formidable
)ull and a bowline
8, that a severe ex-
t usually produ(;n a
half or two miles,
10 that, after having
June, in latitude 81
imselves on the t29th
ving thus made only
ng. Captain Parry
eachingf the Pole;
>n as far as possilde.
:)mewhat smoother
her better progrress.
1 one of tnese, the
I usually pushed on
3 best course. On
ommonly mounted
y beheld a scene of
wariness. The eye
id iu dense and dia-

1IRCT.NT rOLAIl VOVAOKi.

201

mnl foKK. Amid this •cone of inanimate desolatioiw
iie vi«w of a pussinK biril, or of i<-e in any jKiculiar
shape, excited an intense interest, which tliry .«uiled
to recollect; b\it they were principally cheered by
viewinK the two Imats in the distanfrc, tlie moving
fi(()ircs. of the men wimluiR with their (dcdges
nnionn the hununocks, and by hcsiiinK the sound of
human voices, which broke the nilence of this fro-
Tcn wilderness. The rain, mid the incrciiwngr
warmth of the season, indeed gradually softetuid
the ice and snow, but this only caused the travellers
to sink deep at every step. At one place they sunk
repeatedly three feet, and retpiired three hours to
,nake a hundred yards. As they halted on the eve-
ninff of the 6th July, the margm of the floe broke,
and a bag of co<!oa fell into tiie sea, but luckily
Rlijfhted on a tonjnic of ice and v is taken up.* At
the same time pools and even In! is were formed on
the froxen surface ; and though the peculiar blue ot
these HuperKlacial lakes formed one of the most
beautiful tints in nature, this was a poor compensa-
tion for bein(? obliged to make a (preat rfcJowr in
order to avoid them. Still, amid all these diffi-
culties, the floes became on the whole larRer, the
lanes of water longer, and the day's Journey was
gradually extended. Having attained 82 degrees
40 minutes, they began to hold it as a fixed {wint
that their cflTorts would be crowned with success so
far as to reach the eighty-third parallel. This hope
seemed converted into certainty, when, on the 88d
they had travelled seventeen miles, the greater pro-
portion of which was directly north. But there now
occurred an unfavourable change, which baffled all
their toils and liopes. Down to the 19th the wind had
blown steadily from the«outh, and, without aiding

• Itmty be menllonnd , thm lh« coiilenlii of ihepucNliie here »IIuded
to were found W b« quite uninjured after lliU rude '"•m""'""' •.?!?'
IMIIon lucrlbed to " MucklnUwIi't wnier proof canva«, -«" »'"''*«•
lure which, u> tecurity fur jen-iutre*, li uiantioDed by (/aptUll rWTf
ki IcriiM of Um hlgbwl eommeiuUUoii.

-. yit;i'.SiiS&MS;7XSiiiaK.tt

203

RKCENT POLAR V0YA0E8.

them much, had at least checked the usual movti
ment of the ice in that direction. On this last dav,
however, a -Jteady breeze sprung up from the north,
which opened, indeed, a few lanes of water; but
this it was feared could not compensate for the de-
gree in which it could not fail to cause the loos-
ened masses of ice, with the travellers upon them,
to drift to the southward. This effect was soon found
to take place to an extent still more alarming than
had been at first anticipated. Instead often or twelve
miles, which they reckoned themselves to have tra-
velled northward on the 82d, they were found not to
have made quite four. This most discouraging fact
was at first concealed from the sailors, who only re-
marked, that they were very long of getting to this
83d degree. The expedition was now fast approach-
ing the utmost limits of animal hfe. During their
long journey of the 22d they saw only two seals, a
fish, and a bird. On the 84th only one solitary rotga
was heard; and it might be presumed that, from
thence to the Pole, all would be a mighty scene of si-
lence and solitude. The adventurers pushtd on with-
out hesitation beyond the realms of life ; but now,
after three days of bad travelling, when their reckon-
ing gave them ten or eleven miles of progr^.ss, observa-
tion showed them to be four miles south of the posi-
tion which they occupied on the evening of the 22d.
The drifting of the snow-fields had in that time car
ried them fourteen miles backward. This was too
much. To reach even the eighty-third degree, though
only twenty miles distant, was now beyond the
Umits of hope. To ask the men to undergo such un-
paralleled toil and hardship, with the danger of their
means being exhausted, while an invisible power
undid what their most strenuous daily labours
achieved, was contrary to the views of their consi-
derate commander. In short, he determined that they
•hould take a day of rest, and then set out on their
return. This resolution was communicated to th^

ITAOEB.

KECENT POLAR TUYAOES.

293

fd the usual move
. On this last dav,
I up from the north,
anes of water; but
[ipensate for the de-
to cause the loos-
ivellers upon them,
effect was soon found
more alarming than
lead often or twelve
nselves to have tra-
y were found not to
)st discouraging fact
lailors, who only re-
ig of getting to this
3 now fast approach-
life. During their
iw only two seals, a
ly one solitary rotg«
resumed that, from
> mighty scene of si-
irers pushtd on with-
(ns of life ; but now,
:, when their reckon,
of progT'-ss, observa*
es south of the posi-
evening of the 23d.
tad in that time car
^ard. This was too
-third degree, though
is now beyond the
to undergo such un-
1 the danger of their
an invisible power
lous daily labours
iews of their consi-
determined that they
len set out on their
)mmumcated to th^

crew, who, though deeply disappointed at having
achieved so little, Acquiesced in the necessity, ana
consoled themselves with the idea of having gone
farther north than any previous expedition of which
there waa a well-authenticated record.

The return was equally laborious as the going out,
and in some respects more unpleasant, from the in-
<;rea8ing softness of the ice and snow; depriving
them of confidence in any spot on which they could
place their boats or persons, and often sinking two
or three feet in an instant. However, the drift
southward made no longer any deduction from their
progress, but added to it, eveiy observation giving
them several miles beyond their reckoning. There
was more open water, and it was a relief to them
that the sun in their nightly journeying was lower
in the horizon ; while, being to the northward, he
did not as, formerly, glare in their faces. They met
several bears, and killed one, which was eagerly de-
voured by the hungry crew ; but the meal was fol-
lowed by such severe s)rmptoms of indigestion as
inspired an unfavourable opinion regarding the flesh
of this animal. Captain Pairy attributed the bad
effects to the enormous quantity eaten. At length,
on the 11th August, they heard the soimd of the
surge breaking against the exterior margin of the
great icy field. They were soon launched on the open
sea, and reached Table Island, where a supply of
bread had been deposited ; but Bruin had discovered
it, and devoured the whole. They found, however,
some accommodations ; while the stores left at Wal-
den's Island were still quite undisturbed. On the 81st
the navigators arrived in Hecla Cove, from whence,
soon afterward, they sailed for England.

Such was the result of the first and only attempt
to penetrate to the Pole over the frozen surface of
the deep. All the prowess, energy, and hardihood
of British seamen were exerted to the utmost, with-
out miUuog even an approach towards the fulfil-
Bb3

i,ii»miX:atsti

294

BECBNT POLAR VOYAGES.

ment of their object. A failure so coioplete has
suspended for the present every idea of resuming
the project ; yet there seems nothing in the details
just given to deter from the enterprise as impossible,
or even to render it very unfeasible. The unfavour-
able issue seems evidently owing to the advanced
season of the year, when the thaw and consequent
dissolution of the ice had made great progress, and
all the materials of the great northern floor were
broken up. The water, in its progressive conver-
sion fVom solid into fluid, presented only a trea-
cherous quicksand, in which the travellers sunk at
every step, with the peril of being finally swallowed
up. The ice in these intermediate stages of its tran-
sition into water, and in the breaches and pressures
to which this save rise, assumed a variety of much
more rugged forms, than when it was spread and
fast bound over the surface of the ocean. Its ten-
dency also when loosened to float to the southward,
carrying with.it whatever is moving along its sur-
face, inevitably defeats every attempt to proceed
over it in a contrary direction. We entirely concur,
therefore, in Mr. Scoresby's opinion, that a departure
much earlier in the season would be quite indis-
pensable to give any chance of success. We would
even go famer than he, and advise to start at the
first dawn of the Polar day, when there would be
a probable chance of returning by the end of June.
The great plain of ice would 1^ much smoother and
much firmer at that than at any other season. It
would be deeply covered with snow, which would
fill various interstices, convert rugged steeps into
sloping ridges, and produce a surface generally more
level and uniform. This coating, too, would then
bo much harder, perhaps sufficient to sustain the
weight both of the men and boats, and afford every
where sure and solid footing. Wheels, it is probable,
might be employed with advantage, though wholly
uont for that nigged and sinking surface over whicL

rAOES.

ro so complete has
y idea of resuming
thing in the details
rprise as impossible,
ble. The unfavour-
ng to the advanced
law and consequent
great progress, oUd
lorthem floor were
progressive conver-
lented only a trea-
i travellers sunk at
ig finally swallowed
,te stages of its trail-
iches and pressures
i a variety of much
it was spread and
he ocean. Its ten-
at to the southward,
Dving along its sur-
attempt to proceed
We entirely concur,
ion, that a departure
>uld be quite indis-
mccess. We would
Ivise to start at the
hen there would be
by the end of June,
much smoother and
ly other season. It
snow, which would
rugged steeps into
rface generally more
ng, too, would then
:ient to sustain the
its, and afford every
V^heels, it is probable,
tage, though wholly
( BiuiEace over whicL

RECENT FOLAR V0YA0E8.

295

^mm

Captain Parry was obliged to tread. We are even
inclined to ask, whether other machinery might not
be beneficially introduced ? Could there not be con-
structed a light portable bridge, to be thrown' across
chasms and from hummock to hummock, over which
the keel of the boats by due adaptation might slide
as on a railway, and the evils of friction be avoided?
— The cold, doubtless, would be most extreme and
intense ; but Captain Parry's experience and manage-
ment during his four winterings seem to have re-
moved every apprehension that it would prove fatal.
The boats might be hermetically closed, with wind-
ing entrances, like the winter-huts of the Esquimaux ;
and it was clearly established, that, eveh in the dark-
est depth of the Polar winter, provided tempests did
not fill the sky, it was possible and even most salu-
tary, to perform brisk movements in the open air.
The travellers would indeed require an addition to
their spirituous fuel, not a weighty article ; also a
larger stock of clothes; but these last it would be every
way expedient to wear on their persons. The only
circumstance which seems seriously alarming, is an
observation made by Captain Parry, that the daily
allowance of provision, amounting to ten ounces of
biscuit and nine of pemmican, was not found sufii-
cient to maintain the men in full vigour ; and truly,
when contrasted with their severe toils, ic does ap-
pear an inadequate supply. It were dreadful indeed
to think of sending a party to the Pole on short allow-
ance. The quantity could not well be increased
without making the drag too severe ; but we cannot
help thinking that the victuals selected, fulfilled very
imperfectly the obvious condition of being such as to
comprise the greatest possible nutriment in the least
possible bulk. Thus it seems unaccountable that
the gioater part of the food should have been farina-
ceous, in the form of dry biscuit, which contains
surely much less nourishment than the same weight
of aiumal food. We preteud not to be at aU versant

MwrwaiN!^ >■

296

RSONT POLAR TOYAOSO.

in the mysteries of cookery ; yet portable soup, foe
instance, might certainly have been so prepared as
to imbody a much greater amount of nutritive sub-
stance than mere dried and pounded beef; and, if
duly seasoned, might have formed a most comfortable
mess imder the snows of the Pole. The addition of
some rich cakes, cheese, and butter might seem
likely to compose a store which, without exceeding
in weight that of Captain Parry, would yield a much
larger proportion of nourishment and strength. — ^We
should hesitate to recommend Mr. Scoresby's plan of
being drawn to the Pole by reindeer, or even of
trusting to a team of any description. These ani-
mals would be liable to many casualties, and, shoidd
they break down at an advanced period of the route,
the result might be disastrous in the extreme.

This project would requiie,of course, that the ship
should winter on the northern coast of Spitzbergen ;
an arrangement, we conceive, indispensable to avoid
that delay which had such an influence in frustrating
the late expedition. We are surprised to find, that
even Captain Parrj', after so many successful winter-
ings, considers this as a serious objection. In fact,
on seeing it admitted, that before the close of autumn
a ship might penetrate to 82°, and perhaps to 83°, we
are tempted to ask whether a discovery-vessel might
not, in tne first season, push forward to that latitude,
and find a station either in an island, if such should
bo found, as has been done before ; or, if not, whether
U might not enclose itself within one of the great
fields of ice, and there await the arrival of sprmg ?
A very considerable and probably the roughest por-
tion of the Polar route would thus be avoided.

A different principle from that above suggested
has been proceeded upon by Captain Ross, in the
Arctic expedition in which he is now engaged. By
the power of steam, which has produced such
wonwrs in modem navi^iation, he hopes to vanquish

MPnnnnmMRmMki

_L

♦ •

>YA0E8.

et portable soup, fot
been so prepared as
unt of nutritive sub-
funded beef; and, if
id a most comfortable
•le. The addition of
butter might seem
1, without exceeding
, would yield a much
t and strength. — We
Ir. Scoresby's plan of
eindeer, or even of
ription. These ani-
asualties, and, shoidd
d period of the route,
1 the extreme.
f course, that the ship
oast of Spitzbergen ;
idispensable to avoid
fluence in frustrating
urprised to find, that
ny successful winter-
i objection. In fact,
e the close of autumn
nd perhaps to 83°, we
scovery-vessel might
ward to that latitude,
sland, if such should
e; or, if not, whether
hin one of the ^at
fie arrival of sprmg ?
ily the roughest por-
lius be avoided.

lat above suggested
)aptain Ross, in the
is now engaged. By
has produced such
he hopes to vanquish

NORTHERN WHALE-FISHERY.

297

the obstacles which have arrested in this career all
former navigators. Steam, indeed, has no power
against ice; but if at any period of the season there
sliould be found an open sea reaching to the Pole, a
vessel thus propelled might in a week perform the
voyage to and from that great boundary. The doubt
whether the waters will ever open to such an extent,
and the fear that, having opened and allowed the na-
vigators to pass, the ice may close in behind them,
cannot fail to suggest themselves to the reader's
mind ; but we do not wish at present to indulge in
unfavourable augury.

Captain Ross makes this bold attempt solely upon
his own resources, and doubtless with the view of
effacing the error by which he relinquished to Cap-
tain Parry the glory of penetrating by Lancaster
Sound into the Polar ocean. He took his departiue
in the Spring of 1839. His vessel, it appears, suf-
fered some damage in the Gi-eenland sea, which he
was enabled to repair by the aid of a ship employed in
whale-fishing. He proposed, it was understood, to
winter in Spitzbergen, and in the course of the present
summer to attempt the execution of his grand design.
The issue, however, is not likely to be known in tbis
country till a very advanced period of the searon.

CHAPTER IX.

The NorOum WhaU-Fuhery.

We have formerly had occasion to notice the great
number and stupendous magnitude of those animal
forms with which nature has fiUed tlie abysses of the
Arctic ocean. The cetaceous orders, which include
the mightiest of living beings, belong peculiarly, and

liMliiMMiliil^

S98

NOKTHSRN WRAtS-nSHCRT.

in some respects exclusively, to those northern
depths. Confident in their multitude and their
strength, they would for ever ha\e rested peaceful and
undisturbed amid the vast and dreary domain which
Providence has given them to occupy, had not the
spirit of avarice commenced agaiuBt them a deadly
warfare. Man, ever searching the remotest parts
of the globe for objects which might contribute to
his use and accommodation, discovered in those
huge animals a variety of substances iitted for the
supply of important wants. Even after his more
refined taste rejected their flesh as food, the oil was
required to trim the winter lamp, and to be employed
in various branches of manufacture ; while the bone,
from its firm, flexible, and elastic quality, is pecu-
liarly fitted for various articles of dress and ornament.
No sooner, therefore, had the course of discovery
opened a way into the seas of the north, than he
discerned the benefits which might be derived from
snatching the spoil of these tenants of the frozen
waters. He commenced against them a system of
attack, that was soon converted into a regular trade,
but one more full of adventure and peril than any
other by which human subsistence is earned.

It has been generally supposed that whale-fishing,
as a commercial pursuit, arose subsequently to the
revival of navigation in Europe ; but the researches of
Mr. Scoresby leave no doubt that, on a small scale
at least, it existed at a much earlier period. Even
the voyage of Ohthere, in 890, shows that its opera-
tions were already carried on with some activity on
the coast of Norway. Indeed it was natural that,
in this native region of the cetaeea, their capture
would commence sooner than elsewhere, and at an
era probably ascending far beyond human records.
Still this was not the true whale, an animal which
never leaves its haunts in the depths of the Arctic
zone. It was that species of dolphin called bottle-
nose, which alone reach' ■ the northern extremities

BRCRT.

NORTHERN WRAU-n8RX<lT.

290

to those northern
iltitude and their
rested peaceful and
eary domain which
ccupy, had not the
inBt them a deadly
the remotest parts
night contribute to
iscovered in those
inces fitted for the
ven after his more
as food, the oil was
and to be employed
re ; while the bone,
ic quality, is pecu-
jress and ornament.
;ourse of discovery
the north, than he
(ht be derived from
lants of the frozen
t them a system of
into a re^lar trade,
and peril than any
ce is earned.
1 that whale-fishinf^,
subsequently to the
mt the researches of
It, on a small scale
irlier period. Even
liows that its opera-
ith some activity on
it was natural that,
taeea, their capture
ilsewhere, and at an
and human records.
[e, an animal which
depths of the Arctic
Dlphin called bottle-
northern extremities

of Eui^ope ; is occasionally stranded on the coasts of
Orkney and Shetland; and at times penetrates much
farther south.

The Northmen, in their career of conquest and
settlement over Europe, introduced on the coast of
France the hunting of the whale, which, to these
hardy mariners, was at once a trade and a sport ;
having found in the southern seas an inferior species,
attracted thithnr by the shoals of herrings on wliich it
fed. These smaller fish frequent the Bay of Biscay,
to which they seem to make a penodical migration,
and where they are arrested by the wide circuit of
its shores. Ancient documents prove that the Nor-
mans, the Flemings, and even the English, regarded
them as a valuable commodity ; less, however, for
the oil, which in this species is not very abundant,
than for the flesh, which satisfied the hunger and even
pleased the palate of our rude ancestors. Whales'
tongues are ranked among the delicacies that adorned
the table of the middle ages.

The bay just named afforded the chief theatre for
this southern whale-fishery, which was almost en-
tirely engrossed by the people inhabiting its interior
shores ; those of Beam and Gascony on the French
side, and of Biscay on the Spanish. The Basques in
particular soon surpassed all other nations, and car-
ried to such perfection the processes connected with
this pursuit, that the most expert whale-fishers in
modern times have done little more than copy their
usages. By degrees they extended their adventures
into the northern seas, where they met the people
of Iceland, a Norwegian colony, who had already
engaged in this trade. Here the Basques and Ice-
landers, combining their efforts, soon brought the
fishery into a very flourishing state.

This, however, was conducted on a small scale,
when compared with the enterprise of modem nations.
Yet the fir^t nortbera navigators were not attracted
thither by this special object, but stumbled on it; ••

•p

800

mnmmmmm

iroRTRiRN wRAiK-nnnitr.

it were, in the courae of their anluous attempts to
accomplish a passage to India by tlie Arctic seas
Barentz, in 1596, discovered Spitzbcrjfen, long the
main seat of this fishery, and even examined a con-
siderable extent of its shores ; but as these presented
an obstruction to his views of reaching India, and as
his voyage closed at last in disaster, no other result
was obtained beyond a certain knowledge of geo-
graphy and of the animal kingdom.

The English were the first who pushed their ope-
rations into the depth of the Arctic ocean. The Bear
Island of Barentz, being rediscovered and named
after Alderman Cherie, gave rise to a series of voy-
ages for the capture of the walrus, of which some
account has been already given. The views of the
merchants were much extended, when Hudson, hav-
ing engaged in his daring attempt to reach and to
cross the Pole, surveyed Spitzbergen or East Green-
land even to its northern extremity. Although unable
to penetrate farther, he gave information regarding
the immense number of whales which were seen on
those Arctic shores. Thenceforth the adventurers
fitted out for Polar discovery were instructed to cover
their expenses, aa far aa might be, by the occasional
capture of these valuable animals. This arrange-
ment, as formerly remarked, was not hapmr, so far
as discovery was concerned, since the considerations
of profit were very likely to supersede the main object
of the voyage. Poole, in 1610, confined his views
almost entirely to the capture of the walrus j but as
he reported a great abundance of whales, the Com-
pany next year sent out the Mary Margaret, furnished
with Biscayan harpooners, and with every thing re-
quisite for the great fishery. Captain Edge accord-
ingly succeeded in taking a small whale, *which
yielded twelve tons of oil ; the first, as he conceives,
that was ever extracted in the Greenland seas. The
termination of this voyage was unfortunate ; yet the
llusoovy Company next year sent out two ships*

♦ '

nSBUKtt

arduous attempts to
by the Arctic seas
pitzberjfen, long the
ven examined a con-
ut as thene presented
iachin^ India, and an
tister, no other result
I knowledge of geo-
lom.

'ho pushed their ope-
tic ocean. The Bear
icovered and named
le to a series of Toy<
drus, of which some
1. The views of the
I, when Hudson, hav-
mpt to reach and to
ergen or East Green-
ity. Althou|(h unable
iformation regarding
I which were seen on
3rth the adventurers
re instructed to cover
be, by the occasional
nals. This arrange-
ras not happv, so far
ice the considerations
srsede the main object
>, confined his views
)f the walrus } but as
of whales, the Com-
y Margaret, furnished
I with every thing re-
)aptain Edge accord-
small whsde,*which
first, as he conceives,
Sre^nland seas. The
unfortunate ; yet the
sent out two ships*

NORTHERN WHALB-nSBlkr.

301

the Whale and the Seahorse, to follow up the design.
The Dutch, meantime, intent on every rorm of com-
mercial adventnrc, had vessels that very year for the
same purpose in the Greenland waters. These our
countrymen chose to consider as interlopers, and
bemg the stronger party, compelled their rivals to
decamp, without even attempting the fishery. Next
year the same Company obtained a royal charter,
prohibiting all besides themselves to intermeddle in
any shape with this valuable branch of industry. To
make good this privilege, which the Dutch were not
disposed to consider well-founded, the Company fitted
out seven strong and well-armed ships, whose com-
manders, on reaching the seas round Spitzbergen,
found them filled with ships of different nations,
Dutch, French, and Spanish. All these the English
compelled either to depart, or to fish under the con-
dition of deUvering half of the proceeds to them aa
the lords of the northern seas. So busy were they,
however, in excluding others, that, little time or care
being bestowed on their own fishing, they returned
very slenderly laden. Foreign nations exclaimed
against this interference as a most flagrant example
of the tyranny of the new mistress of the ocean (
and, indeed, the grounds on which England rested
her claim do not appear to have been valid. She
alleged the prior occupation made by Sir Hugh Wil-
loughby; but supposing that the mere view, through
mist and tempest, of Uie Spitzbergen coast, could
have established a permanent right to rule over the
neighbouring waters, this discovery was shown by
Peter Plancius, the cosmographer, on the clearest
grounds, to have been made by Barentz, and not by
Sir Hugh. The commencement of the fishery by
the English formed certainly a better claim, yet still
by no means sufiRcient to establish perpetual sove-
reignty over those vast seas. The Dutch determined
not amy to refuse acquiescence, but to repel force
by force ; for which purpose they sent oat fleets so
Cc

■■

W^'

SOS

NORTBsnir wiuLE-riramY.

numerouB and so wall armed, that for some yean
only slight und partiiil annoyances were sustained
by them ; while the two governments appear to have
looked on and allowed the adventurera to fiftht it out.
At length, in 1618, a general encounter took place,
which terminated to tiie disadvantage of the English,
one of whose ships was taken and carried into Am-
sterdam. The Dutch administration, reluctant to
involve themHclvcis in a (juarrel with their powerful
neighbour, prudently restored the vessel with its
lading and crew ; bestowing at the same time a re-
ward on the gallant seamen who had made the cap-
ture. At length it appeared expedient to put an end
to this perpetual coUision. There was^dmitted to be
room enough for all the nations of Europe, provided
they ceased to annoy each other; therefore a divi-
sion was made of the coasts and toys of Spitsbergen
among such States as had been accustomed to resort
to the fishery. The English, allowed to have some-
what of the best claim, were favoured with the first
choice; they pitched upon Horizon Bay, Clock Bay,
Safety Port, and Magdalena Bay, in the more southern
part of the coast, and near the laige island called
Charles's Foreland. Then followed the other nations
in the order of their adjudged rights. The Dutch
ehose the fine island at the north-west extremity,
which they "named Amsterdam, with three bays, one
of which, between it and the mainland, they called
Hollanders' Bay. The Danes and Hamburghen
found an island and a bay between the Dutch and
English stations, while the French and Spaniards
wore obliged to content themselves with Biscayners'
Point and other bleak promontories along the north-
em coast.

The English Russia or Muscovy Company were
thus allowed full scope for carrying on the trade,
from which they diligently excluded the rest of their
countrymen. Their pursuits, however, were pro-
bably too various, and their transactions on too groat

-rilBlRT.

, that Tor som« yean
inces were suatained
iments appear to have
jiiturura to flirht it out.
encounter took place,
antage of the English,
and carried into Am-
istrution, reluctant to
si with their powerful
I the vessel with ita
It the same time a re-
ho had made the cap-
xpedient to put an end
ere was^dmitted to be
IS of Europe, provided
her; tlierefore a divi-
id bays of Spitsbergen
n accustomed to resort
allowed to have some-
favoured with the first
rizon Bay, Clock Bay,
y, in the more southern
le laiee island called
owed the other nations
i riehts. The Dutch
north-west extremity,
a, with three bays, one
mainland, they called
ea and Hamburghen
:tween the Dutch and
•^nch and Spaniards
elves with Biscayners*
tones along the north-

iscovy Company were
larrying on the trade,
eluded the rest of their
I, however, were pro-
Lusactions on too gT<»at

IfORTBCRN i*«Af.»<WBIIWIT.

308

a scale, for permitting them to bestow on this diffl-
cult trade that close attention which could alone
render it productive. The gains of their fishery were
more than absorbed by extensive losses ; they gra-
dually limited their transactions, till England scarce-
ly sent a ship to the north, and saw all the markets
filled by her industrious rivals.

The Dutch, meantime, succeeded in converting this
fishery into a grand source of national wealth. At
first, according to the usage of the time, they fol-
lowed the objectionable system of an exclusive
company, though on a somewhat liberal scale. The
oriifmal body, formed at Amsterdam, was obliged to
admit others belonging to Zealand and Friesland,
and finally to receive into their number many weal-
thy individuals of the province of Holland. The
nation, having thus invested an immense capital in
this trade, and carrying it on with their characteris-
tic prudence and diligence, soon raised it to the
highest pitch of prosperity. On their first arrival in
the northern seas, the whales were seen extended on
the face of the deep without any fear, and present-
ing themselves, as it were, to the stroke of the har-
poon. The only difliculty was to carry them home 5
for one or two such large animals were sufficient to
fill a ship. Tlie Dutch adopted, therefore, the plan
of extracting on the spot tne oil and bones; thus
reducing all the valuable substance into so small a
compass, that one ship could convey the produce of
numerous whales. They founded the village of
Smeerenberg, in the bay of the same name, where
fish were discovered in extraordinary abundance.
Boilers, tanks, coolers, and all the requisite apparatus,
were erected on an immense scale ; and this station,
during the summer, became crowded and populous,
resembling in some degree a northern Batavia. The
fishers caught whales without any effort, and had
only to carry them two or three miles to the shore,
where the oil was extracted. In tliis dreary comer,

m

304

KOKTiRiur WRALC'Vnimir.

too, were pi\jo)red all tho luxurirts of life, amonir
which an* ipecially mentioned Itot rolls, prepHrea
every mornini^. A bell waa runff, at the Round of
which all the inhubitanta ran to supply theniNelvea
with a dainty that seemed to belong to a diflferent
climate. Zorgdraifer mentions, thiit he entered this
bay in 1697, nnd found it o<;cupicd by 188 veNNela,
havinff on board the produce of 1959 fiBh.

Under these eaay circumstances, tho trade, even
in the hands of an exchisivu company, became an
ample source of national wealth. 8oon, however,
it experienced an unforeseen reverse. 'ITie whales,
pursued and killed in such vast numbers, learned to
tlrend the assault of that mighty destroyer who had
invaded their haunts, undisturbed for so many prior
anea. They (rraduully, and at last almost entirely,
deserted Hmeerenberi;^, removing into North Bay,
where they were still taken with facility ; but much
delay was incurred in the conveyance of the carcasses
to the former station. From North Bay, also, they
ffradiiallv receded, and the fishers were obliged to
follow them into the open sea, where both the cap>
ture and transportation became moro and more
difflcult. These mighty animals relinquished part
after part of their native deeps, and were everywhere
compelled to give way before a destroying power
which they could not otherwise escape. Thejr
sought their final refuge near that great bank of ice
which forms the western boundary of the Whale-
flshers' Bight in the Greenland sea. Hither it
behooved the pursuers to follow ; where, mooring
themselves to frozen fields, hey watched with no
small hazard the movements of their prey. The
expense and delay of conveying their prizes, some*
times 9000 miles, to the harbour of Smeerenberg,
becoming very inconvenient, arrangements were
made, by which the whale, being fastened to the
aides of the ship, witn flensed, or cleared of its blub-
ber and bone ; after which the useless carcass was

niRiiir.

uriftfl of life, amonir
1 Itot rolls. prepHrea
anif, at the sound of
o supply theniNclvee
IxtloiiK to a diflTorHiit
, tliHt he entered this
pied by 188 vessels,

11)59 fish.

iiccH, tho tnulp, even
company, becam« aii
Ith. Hoon, however,
iverse. '1*116 whales,
t numbers, learned to
y destroyer wlio had
3d for so many prior
last almost entirely,
mg into North Bay,
:h facility ; but much
ance of the CHrcasses
(orth Bay, also, they
lers were obli((ed to

where both thie cap-
me moro and more
lis relinquished part
and were everywhere

a destroying power
krise escape. They
lat great bank of ice
idary of the Whale-
md sea. Hither it
uw ; where, mooring
cy watched with no
of their prey. The
7 their prizes, some*
)ur of Smeerenberg,

arrangements were
ing fastened to the
r cleared of its blub-

tueless carcass was

irnRTRRRN WHALI-rUIIBIIT.

805

eonaigned to the deep. The village then lost eTery
fountution on which its prosperity had rested. Tlie
stores, furnaces, capacious vessels, and numeroua
utensils there di^Hisited, were canied away ; hence
it is now difficult to trace the spot on which stood
that once flourishing settlement. At the same time,
the trade, become thus arduous and perilous, ana
yielding reduced profits, was no longer advantageous
to an exclusive body. That once prosperous com-
pany was accordingly dissolved, and the fishery
thrown open to all who chose to engage in it : and
such is tho activity of individual enterprise, that,
even under a diminished nrosi^ct of success, a
greater number of ships ar jw employed than ever
was fitted out from the ports of Holland.

Tho Knglifth meantime did not remain altogcthci
unconcerned spectators of this imineni ' prosperity
on the part of their neighbours. After the Muscovy
Company was off the field, another was instituted,
under the title of " The Company of Merchants of
London trading to Greenland." They subsciribed a
capital of 40,000/. which was increased successively
to 82,000/. though only 45,000/. was actually paid.
This undertaking proved most disas'rous. In nine
years the entire capital was lost, an I the concern
broken up. Its fall is traced by Elking to the
usual loose and wasteful management incident to
large companies carrying on their concerns by un-
interested agents. Men were employed for masters
who were entirely unacauaintt'd with the business :
they were paid by a flxea salary instead of receiving
a share of the produce ; hence they used to spend
long interv^s on shore, amusing themselves with
hunting deer, and appropriating to their own use the
fruits of the chase. The wreck of the Company's
last ship, after the capture of eleven whales, preci-
pitated their ruin.

The legislature, mortified that this trade, which
was enriching the neighbouring nations, should prove
Cc9

1

iiiigiiiiiiHii^^

808

NORTHSRN WHALS-nSBERV.

SO fruitless in the hands of Britons, redoubled their
encouragements, and exempted from all duty the
produce of the national whale-fisheries. Thus fa-
voured, and stimulated by the representations of Mr.
Elking, the South Sea Company determined to em-
baik in this pursuit a large prupo<tion of their capital.
In 1735 they buUt twelve large and strong vessels,
fully equipped with cordage, casks, and fishing
implements. These ships went out in sprmg, and
returned with twenty-five fish, which did not quite
pay the expense of equipment ; however, this, upon
the whole, was thought not a bad beginning, and
gave hopes of improvement, which were far from
being fulfilled. In 1730 twenty-two ships were sent
out, and returned with only tv^elve whales, so that a
loss was incurred in that year of nearly 9000/. The
following season was little better; and the Company,
finding that in eight years they had expended an
immense sum, without the least prospect of repay
ment or profit, threw up the trade altogether.

Notwithstanding these repeated and sigiial failures^
the British government did not relax their zeal. In
1732 a bounty of twenty shillings per ton was granted
to every ship exceeding 200 tons employed in the
whale-fishery. Several private individuals were thus
induced to embark in the trade, and with tolerable
success ; yet there being still no appearance of its
rising to any national importance, the bounty was
extended, in 1749, to forty shillings. This produced
at length the desired effect. In 1753 the ships sent
out amounted to forty sail, including several from
Scotland, whose merchants in 1750 had begun to
participate in the trade. In 1755 they had increased
to eighty-two sail; and in the next twenty years the
trade continued in a varying but generally prosperous
state. Some regulations were introduced with the
view of making it more efficient as a nursery of
seamen ; and in 1769 it was considered firmly esta-
btiabed. after the oatioD had paid ia bounties upward*

*'

E-nSHERV.

ritona, redoubled their
sd from all duty the
e-fiaheries. Thus fa-
representations of Mr.
ny determined to em-
)ortion of their capital.
re and strong vessels,
;, casks, and fishing
jnt out in spring, and
, which did not quite
t ; however, this, upon
a bad beginning, and
which were far from
yr-two ships were sent
reive whales, so that a
of nearly 9000/. The
er; and the Company,
bey had expended an
ist prospect of repay
ide altogether,
ted and sigiial failures^
t relax their zeal. In
igs per ton was granted
tons employed in the
3 individuals were thus
le, and with tolerable
no appearance of its
ance, the bounty was
lings. This produced
[n 1753 the ships sent
icluding several front
n 1750 had begun to
^65 they had increased
next twenty years the
It generally prosperous
3 introduced with the
cient as a nursery of
onsidered firmly esta-
id ia bounties upward*

NORTnERIt tTHALB-FISHERT.

307

of, 600,000/. then reckoned an enormous sum. These
considerations induced the legislature, in 1777, to
reduce the rate to thirty shillings; but the fishery
could not support itself on this encouragement, and
the vessels employed fell, between the years 1775
and 1781, from 105 to 39. The allowance of forty
shillings being restored, it regained its full prosperity,
which soon appeared so steady as to admit the
reduction of the bounty; the total amount of wliich,
paid down to 1786, had not fallen short of 1,266,000/.
It was therefore reduced in 1787 to 30». ; in 1792 to
S5«. ; and in 1795 to 20}. Even under this lowest
grant the fishery increased; able and intelligeni
whale-captains were formed, and Britain soon out-
stripped all other nations in a pursuit in which hei
^ first steps had been so tardy. Another circumstanct
doubtless much favoured this progress. The Dutcli,
having imprudently admitted the French into their
territory, were soon absorbed into the destructive
vortex of that revolutionary power. Involved in
her long war with the mistress of the seas, and
subjected to the anti-commercial policjr of Na-
poleon, Holland saw all her fisheries, with every
other branch of her foreign commerce, completely
annihilated, and British vessels enjoying the imdis-
turbed possession of the northern seas. Peace, in-
deed, at length re-opened to that nation all these
channels of industry; but during a suspension of
twenty years their habits were broken, their con
nexions dissolved, their most skilful and intrepid
whale-fishers had died out; while Britain, which
had been~ in a state of ccmstant activity and im-

Erovement, was now every way an overmatch for
er formerly successful rival.
Before proceeding to describe the operations of
the whale-fishery, it may be proper to mention some
attempts which, with a view to its more eflectud
prosecution, were made to establish colonies on the
dreuy shores of the Polar sea.

808

NORTHERN WHALS-nSUERT

In 1633 the Dutch planned a settlement on the
northern coast of Spitzbergen, when seven sailors
volunteered for this arduous undertaking. On the
30th August the fleet left them in North Bay, where
they not only undertook to live during the winter,
but even to provide themselves with fresh provisions.
They visited all the surrounding shores, took three
reindeer and a number of sea-swallows, collecting
also a great quantity of a species of watercress.
Their great ambition was to catch a whale ; but,
though tantalized by the sight of many, all tlieir
attempts failed. Even one found dead and fresh on
the margin of the sea was floated out by the tide be-
fore they could secure it.

It was on the 3d October that the extreme cold
began to be felt, accompanied by numerous flights
of birds passing to the southward. On the 13th one
of the casks of beer was frozen three inches thick.
The winterers were obliged to break the ice in pieces,
and thaw it before the fire, when it made a very un-
palatable liquor. On the 15th, having ascended one
of the neightx>uring mountains they could see only
a small portion of the sun's disk on the verge of the
horizon, and in a few days it entirely disappeared ;
there was still a faint twiUght of eight hours, which
was soon reduced to five, and became every day
shorter and shorter. In November the cold increased
to the utmost pitch : they could not sleep in their
beds, but were obliged either to crouch over the fire,
or run full speed through the hut, to keep up the
vital energy. At length they ranged all their couches
round the fireplace and a stove, yet still found it ne-
cessary to lay themselves down between the stove
and the fire, holding their feet to the very embers.
On the 20th December they saw a very bright illu-
mination, resembling the Aurora Borealis, over the
southern part of the sky. Tliey could not, however,
believe it to be the resd Aurora, which they after-
ward saw of peculiar splendour in its proper plae«.

nSHBRT

fi settlement on the
when seven sailors
dertaking. On the
n North Bay, where
; during the winter,
irith fresh provisions,
g shores, took three
swallows, collecting
?cies of watercress.
;atch a whale ; but,
t of many, all tlieir
id dead and fresh on
!d out by the tide be-
lt the extreme cold
by numerous flights
rd. On the 13th one
1 three inches thick,
'eak the ice in pieces,
n it made a very un-
laving ascended one
they could see only
; on the verge of the
entirely disappeared ;
f eight hours, which
I became every day
ter the cold increased
d not sleep in their
crouch over the fire,
hut, to keep up the
iged all their couches
yet still found it ne-
i between the stove
to the very embers,
w a very bright illu-
a Borealis, over the
y could not, however,
I, which they after-
' in its proper place.

NORTHERN WHAlE-nSHERT.

8M

Night and winter continued in their utmost mtensi^
till the 22d January, when they again enjoyed atwi-
light of six hours ; at midday of the 26th there Ava»
no longer a star to be seen; but it was the 33d
February ere, from a mountain-top, they cou d descry
any portion of the sun's disk. Throughout the whole
period they had dreadful contests to maintam with
the Polar bear. On the 3d March one of these am-
mals had received two balls in the throat, which he
was endeavouring to pluck out with his paws, when
the whole seven sailors rushed on him with their
lances. Tlie bear dashed at one of them, tore the
lance from his hand, and threw him on the ground :
but as the animal was about to devour his victim,
another sailor stnick and obliged him to quit his hold ;
afterward, however, though pursued by all the seven,
he plunged into the sea and escaped.

Thus these seven persons passed through this nara
winter without any severe attack of sciwvy ; and on
the 87th May they were overjoyed by the ew of a
boat, which conveyed them to a neighbouring bay,
where seven Dutch ships had assembled for the
fishery. The active life led by these seamen was
apparently the chief cause by which their health was
80 well preserved. Tk„*„u

The success of this experiment induced the Duten
Company to repeat the attempt in the following year,
when seven other sailors, well furnished with victuals,
and apparently with every means of withstanding
the rigour of the climate, undertook to winter m
Spitzbergen. They appear, however, to have been
of a less active disposition than their predeceBSors,
and faUed in every attempt to procure ««* victuals.
The sun having quitted them on the 20th October,
they shut themselves up in their hut, out of which
they scarcely ever stirred. In a few weeks they were
attacked by scurvy under its most mahgimnt form,
which, amid this recluse life, and m the absence of
fresh meat and vegetables, assumed continually a

aio

NORTHERN WHALB-FMHERT.

more alarming type, till three died, whose bo^e" the
othere with difficulty enclosed in coffins. TTie sur-
rtvora killed a dog and a fox, which afforded some
wlief, brt not enough to arrest the promress of the
malady. The bears began to approach the hut, and
would have been a blessing, had the men retained
strength either to shoot the animals or to drag home
the carcass. Their mouths became ulcerated ; they
were unable to chew their biscuit ; and only Jerome
Carloen had power to rise from bed and kmdie a fire.
The sun appeared on the 84th February ; but they
could no longer derive aid from this benignant lumi-
nary. The last entry in their journal is in the fol-
lowing terms:— "We are all four stretched on our
beds, and are still alive, and would eat wilhngly, if
any one of us were able to rise and hght a fire. We
implore the Almighty, with folded hands, to deliver
usTrom this life, which it is impossible to prolong
without food or any thing to warm our frozen limbs.
None of us can help the other, each must support his
own misery."— Early in spring the fishuw vessels
arrived, and a party hastened to the hut. They found
it so fast closed, that an entrance could onljr be
effectfed by opening the roof. They found rt a
tomb. Three of the men were enclosed in the coffins
which had been framed for them; the other four lay
dead, two in their beds, and two on a piece of saU
spread on the floor. These last had perished m con-
sequence of mere inability to make the effort neces-
s^ for lifting and dressing the food ; and they had
suffered convulsions so dreadful, that their knees and
chin had come into contact, smd their bodies resem-
bled a rounded block. , ^^ ^

The Dutch tibout the same time made an attempt
to e««tablish acolonyonthe island of JanMayen,but
with a result equaUy fatal. The journal of the un-
fortunate seamen contains little except a very exact
register of the weather.

No farther attempts were made at that tune to <»•

mm

nSHSRT.

led, whose bodies the
n coflSns. The sur-
irhich afforded some
the progress of the
jproach the hut, and
d the men retained
nals or to drag home
ame ulcerated ; they
it ; and only Jerome
bed and kindle a fire.
February ; but they
this benignant lumi-
oumal is in the fol-
lur stretched on our
•uld eat willingly, if
and light a fire. We
ed hands, to deliver
ipossible to prolong
Lrm our frozen limbs,
ach must support his
' the fishing vessels
■he hut. They found
ranee could onljr be
. They found it a
nclosed in the coffins
i; the other four lay
) on a piece of sau
; had perished in con-
lake tne effort neces-
food ; and they had
, that their knees and
1 tiheir bodies resem-

ne made an attempt
id of JanMayen,but
e journal of the un-
except a very exact

ie at that time to co*

NORTHIRIV WHALX«n;HIRT.

811

Ionize Spitzbergen. The next instance of wintering
on those dreary shores arose from necessity and dis-
aster. A Russian vessel, which had sailed from Arch-
angel for the wliale-fishery in 1743, being driven by
the wind to the eastern coast of Spitzbergen, found
itself beset amid floating ice without hope of deliver-
ance. One of the party recollected that a hut had
been erected on this coast by some of his countrymen,
under the apprehension of being obliged to spend the
winter there. He and three others set out to dis-
cover the place. With much difficulty they reached
the shore, leaping from fragment to fragment of
moving ice ; then, spreading themselves in different
directions, they found the cottage, which, though
ruinous, afforded shelter for the night. Early in the
morning they hastened to the shore, to convey to their
comrades this happy intelligence. But what must
have been their horror, when they saw only a vast
open sea, without a vestige of the ship, or even of the
numerous icebergs which had been tossing through
the waves ! A violent gale had dispersed them ul,
and apparently also sunk the vessel, which was never
heard of more.

These four unfortunate seamen, abandoned on
this dreadful shore, having the long winter to pass
without food, or arms and implements to procure any,
did not, however, give way to despair. They had a
gun with which they shot twelve deer : then their
ammunition failed; but some pieces of iron were
found on the shore, which they contrived to fashion
into pikes. At the moment when their stock of ve-
nison was nearly exhausted, they found occasion to
employ these weapons against a Polar bear by which
they were assailed. The animal, being vanquished
and killed after a formidable struggle, supphed for
the present aU their wants. His flesh was food, his
skin clothing, his entrails, duly prepared, furnished
the string, which alone had been wanting to com
plete a bow. With that instrument they were mors

Ma

818

KORTnERir WBAUE-TIBBIRT.

than 8 match for the reindeer and the Arotle finCi
with the spoils of which they filled both their pantnr
«pd their wardrobe ; and thenceforth they avoided,
unless in cases of necessity, the encounter of the
bear. Being destitute of cooking utensils, they
were obliged to devour the food nearly raw— dried
either by suspension in the smoke during the long
winter, or by exposure to the heat of the sun during
the short summer. Yet this regular supply of fresh
meat, and, iibove all, the constant exercise to which
necessity prompted, enabled them to preserve their
health entire during six years, in which they looked
in vain for deliverance. In this time they killed 10
bears, S60 r-indeer, ami a multitude of foxes. At
the end of the six years one of them died, when the
three survivors sunk into despondence., giving up all
hopes of relief, and looking forward to the moment
when the last of them would become the prey of
the beats. Suddenly, on the l&th August, 1749, they
descried a vessel at sea. They lighted fires on the
heights, hoisted a flag formed of reindeer skins, and
were at length discovered by the ship, which proved
to belong to their native country. They loaded her
with such a quantity of skins and lard as enabled
them to pay eighty rubles for their passage, and af*
terward to make a profitable voyage.

The example thus involuntarily set by these Rus-
sian sailors has been followed, to a considerable ex-
tent by their coimtrymen, some of whom have since
regularly wintered m huts on the Spitzbergen coast,
and employed themselves in diasmg the walrus and
seal dong the riiore, the deer and Arctic fox in the
interior. They are constantly engaged in hunting,
unless whenlntemipted by tempest; and, even when
the hut is blocked up with snow, they find their way
out by the chimney. They have a reserve of salt
provisions; but as much as possible subsist on the
flesh and drink the warm blood of tlie reindeer, dig-
ging under the bbow for cochlearia, sorrel, and other

rand the Aretiefin;
lUed both their pantiy
;eforth they avoided,
the encounter of the
oking utensils, they
jd nearly raw — dried
moke during the long
leat of the sun during
egular supply of fresh
ant exercise to which
Ihein to preserve their
in which they looked
lis time they killed 10
iltitude of foxes. At
r them died, when the
ondence^ giving up all
irwardto the moment
i become the prey of
6th August, 1749, they
iy lighted fires on the
of reindeer skins, and
the ship, which proved
try. They loaded her
IS and lard as enabled
their passage, and af-
royage.

uily set by these Rub*
I, to a considerable ex-
ne of whom have since
the Spitzbergen coast,
shasing the walrus and
: and Arctic tax in the
y engaged in hunting,
mpest; and, even when
t)w, they find their way
have a reserve of salt
possible subsist on the
3d of tlie reindeer, dig-
leaiia, sorrel, and other

mmTBSMf wuLt-mmmf.

914

plants that act as antidotes to scurvy. By this regi-
men they generally pnserve their health completely
unimured, though the British seamen employed in
whale-fishing have occasionally found the dead body
of a Russian who had fallen a victim to this dread-
ful malady.

It is now time to give a general view of the mode
of catching whales practised by the two great fish-
ing nations of the present day, the British and the
Dutch.

The first object is to fit out a ship suited to the
trade. While the fishery was carried on in bays, or
on the txterior margin of icy fields, very slight fa-
brics were sufllcient ; but now that the vessels depart
early in the season, and push into the very heart of
the northern ices, they are liable every moment to
the most severe shocks and concussicms. The ship,
therefore, must be constructed in such a manner as
to possess a peculiar degree of strength. Its ex-
posed parts are secured with double or even treble
timbers; while it is fortified, ob the expression is,
externally with iron plates, and internally with stan-
chions and cross-bars, so disposed as to cause the
pressure on any one part to bear upon and be supported
by the whole fabric. Mr. Scoresby recommends the
dimension of 360 tons as the most eligible. A ship
of this site is sometimes filled; and the number of
men required for ite lavigation, being also necessary
for manning the boato employed in the fishery, could
not be reduced even in a much smaller vessel. A
larger tonnage than 360, being scarcely ever filled,
uivolves the proprietor in useless extra expense.
The Dutch are of opinion, that the vessels destined
for this fishery should be 113 feet long, 39 broad, and
13 deep, carrying seven boats, and from forty to fifty
seamen. One of the most essential particnlars m
the crow's nest, a species of sentry-box made of
canvass or light wood, pitched on the main-topmast,
or top-gallantmaat head. This is the post of ho-
Dd

3U

NOKTHT- ^ntALI-ruiRRT.

nour, and also of severe cold, where the master often
sits for hours in a temperature thirty or forty degrees
below the freezing-point, and whence he can descry
all the movements of the surrounding seas and ice,
and give directions accordingly. He is provided
with a telescope, a speaking-trumpet, and a nfle, with
which he can sometimes strike a narwal, as it floats
around the ship.

The whaling vessels usually take their departure
in such time as to leave the Shetland Isles about
the beginning of April; and before the end of the
month arrive within the Polar seas. It was long
customary to spend a few weeks at what is called
the Seafisher's Bight, extending along the coast of
Greenland, ere they pushed into those more northern
waters, where, amid fields and mountains of ice, tlie
powerful and precious mysticetiu is tossing ; but in
later times, it nas become usual to sail at once into
that centre of danger and enterprise.

As soon as they have arrived in those seas which
are the haunt of the whale, the crew must be every
moment on the alert, keeping watch day and night.
The seven boats are kept hanging by the sides of the
ship, ready to be launched in a few minutes ; and,
where the state of the sea admits, one of them is
usually mannted and afloat. These boats are from
25 to 98 feet long, about 6^ feet broad, and constructed
with a special view to lightness, buoyancy, and easy
steerage. The captain or some principal ofllcer,
seated in the crow's nest, surveys the waters to a
great distance, and the instant he sees the back of
the huge animal, which they seek to attack, emerging
froni the waves, gives notice to the watch who are
stationed on deck j part of whom leap into a boat,
which is instantly lowered down, and followed by a
second, if the fish be a large one. Each of the boats
has a harpooner, and one or two subordinate ofllcers,
and is provided with an immense quantity of rope
coiled together and stowed in different quarters of

-^*^^

naiRRT.

ere the master ofton
lirty or forty degrees
lence he can descry
inding seas and icn,
f' He is provided
ipet, and a rifle, with
t narwal, as it floats

;ake their departure
Ihetliind Idles about
fore the end of the
seas. It was long
ks at what is called
; along the coast of
ihose more northern
lountains of ice, tlie
\i is tossing ; but in
to sail at once into
irisp,

in those seas which
crew must be every
atch day and night,
g by the sides of the

few minutes ; and,
lits, one of them is
ese boats are from
oad, and constructed

buoyancy, and easy
le principal oflicer,
sys the waters to a
lie sees the back of
. to attack, emerging

the watch who are
>m leap into a boat,
1, and followed by a
Each of the boats
subordinate officers,
ise quantity of rope
lifferent quarters of

MORTnnuf WRiai-nsHiRT. 815'

I

1 Hud Harpoon. 9. Pricker. a Blabber Bptds.

4. Oun Harpoon. S. Lance.

Il«

NOKTBIRN WHALK'niHlRT.

it, Uie several parts being apliced together, so aa to
form a continued line, usually exceeding four thou-
sand feet in length. To the end is attached the hav'
poon (Jit. 1), an instrument formed, not to pierce
and kill tne animal, but, by entering and remaining
fixed in the body, to prevent its escape. One of the
boats is now rowed towards the whale in the deepest
silence, cautiously avoiding to give an alarm, of
which he is very susceptible. Sometimes a circuit
tons route is adopted in order to attack him from be-
hind. Having approached as near as is consistent
with safety, the narpooner darts his instrument into
the back of the monster.* This is a critical mo-
ment ; for when this mighty animal feels himself
struck, he often throws himself into violent convul-
sive movements, vibrating in the air his tremendous
tail, one lash of which is sufficient to dash a boat in
pieces. More conunonlv, however, he plunges with
rapid flight into the depths of the sea, or beneath the
thickest fields and mountains of ice. While he is
thus moving at the rate usually of eight or ten miles
an hour, the utmost diligence must be used that the
line to which the harpoon is attached may run off
smoothly and readily along with him. Should it be
entangled for a moment, the strength of the whale
is such, that he would draw the boat and crew after
him under the waves. The first boat ought to be
quickly followed up by a second to supply more line
when the first is run out, which often takes place in
eight or ten minutes. When the crew of a boat see
the line in danger of being all run off, they hold up
one, two, or three oars, to intimate their pressing
need of a supply. At the same time they turn the
rope once or twice round a kind of post called the
bollard, by which the motion of the line and the ca-
reer of the animal are somewhat retarded. This,

* TIm htrpoMi to laaMllinn dhwlitrfaii tnm • paeallsr ipeelM of
gM, tnwhkhcaMUMfonn/r. 4to«fflplogr*dibalUUiiiMd«bM DM
MOM Into vwy gweral UM.

WIIRT.

d together, so as to
ixceeding four thou-
1 is attached the har-
rtned, not to pierce
mng and remaining
escape. One of the
whale in the deepent

give an alarm, of
Sometimes a circui-
attack him from be-
lear as is consistent
9 his instrument into
is is a critical mo-
nimal feels himself

into violent convul-
9 air his tremendous
ant to dash a boat in
ver, he plunges with
e sea, or beneath the
if ice. While he is
of eight or ten miles
lUBt be used that the
tached may run off
i him. Should it be
rength of the whale

boat and crew after
rst boat ought to be
1 to supply more line
often takes place in
le crew of a twat see
run off, they hold up
mate their pressing
I time they turn the
id of post called the
the Ime and the ca-
lat retarded. This,

(Vom t paeallsr ipaeta* of
j«d i bill UUi mod* bM DM

NORliOSRN WHALK-riSHKRT.

817

however, is a delicate operation, which brings the
side of the boat down to the very edge of the water,
and if the rope is drawn at all too tight, may sink it
altogether. Wliile the lino is whirling round the
bollard, the friction is so violent, that the har*
pooner is enveloped in smoke, and water must be
constantly poiued on to prevent it from catching
fire. When, after all, no aid arrives, and the crew
find that the line must run out, they have only one
resource, — they cut it, losing thereby not only
the whale, but the harpoon and all the ropes of the
boat.

When the whale is first struck and plunges into
the waves, the boat's crew elevate a flag as a signal
to the watch on deck, who give the alarm to those
asleep below, by stamping violently on the deck, and
crying aloud—" A fall ! a fall .'" (Dutch, val, express-
ing the precipitate haste with which the sailors
throw themselves into the boats.) On this notice
they do not allow themselves time to dress, but rush
out in their sleeping-shirts or drawers into an atmos-
phere, the temperature of which is often below zero,
carrying along witli them their clothing in a bundle,
and trusting to make their toilette in the interval of
manning and pushing off the boats. Such is tho
tumult at this moment, that young mariners have
been known to raise cries of fear, thinking the ship
was going down.

The period during which a wounded whale re-
mains under water is various, but is averaged by Mr.
Scoresby at about half an hoiu-. Then, pressed by
the necessity of respiration, he appears above, often
considerably distant from the spot where he was har-
pooned, and in a state of great exhaustion, which
the same ingenious writer ascribes to the severe
pressure that he has endured when placed beneath a
column of water 700 or 800 fathoms deep. All the
boats have meantime been spreading themselves in
various directions, that one at least may be within a
Dd3

818

NOBTntRN. wRAU-nantiirr.

ttart, as it !■ ealled, or about ilOO yards of the point
of his risinif, at which distance they can easily reach
and pierce him with one or two more harpoons before
he again descends, as he usually does for a few
minute*. On his reappearance a ipsneral attack is
made with lances (Sg, b), which are struck as c ^p
as possible, to reacn and penetrate the vital paits.
liluod mixed with oil streams copiously from his
wounds and from the blow-holes, dying; the sea to
a great distance, and sprinkling, and sometimes
drenching the boats and crews. The animal now
becomes more and more exhausted; but, at the
approach of his dissolution, he often makes a con-
vulsive and energetic struggle, rearing his tail high
in Uu3 air, and whirling it with a noise which is heard
at the distance of several miles. At lengtli, quite
overpowered and exhausted, he lays himself r>n his
side or back, and expires. The ff?g is then taken
down, and three loud huzzas raised from the sur-
rounding boats. No time is lost in piercing the tail
with two holes, through which roues are passed
which, being fastened to the boats, drag the fish t«:
the vessel amid shouts of Joy.

The whale being thus caught and secured to the
Bides of the ship, the next operation is that otjleni-
ing, or extracting the blubber and whalebone. This,
if the full strength of the ship be put upon it, may
be executed in about four hours, though a much
longer time is often employed. The captain goes
round and gives a dram to each seaman, with double
allowance to important personages called the kings
of tlie blubber (Dutch ^ck-konMg), whose office it
is to receive that precious commodity, and stow it
in the hold. Anotner high functionary, called the
tptduioneer, has the direction of all the cutting
operations. The dist step is to form round the fish,
between the neck and the fins, a circle called the
kmt, arotmd which all proceedings are to be con>
ducted. To it is fastened & macluneiy uf blocks,

If
to

nsntii?.

10 yards of the potat
th«y can easily reach
lore harpoons before
illy does for a few
a general attark is
;h are struck as c ^ep
trute the vital paits.
copiously from his
les, dying the sea to
ittg, and sometimes
I. The animal now
auRted; but, at the
often makes a con-
rearing his tail hig^
noise which is heard
98. At length, quite
lavs himself on his
! ff?g is then taken
raised from the sur-
al in piercing the tail
h ropes are passed,
its, drag the fish to

and secured to the
ition is that otfleni-
id whalebone. This,

be put upon it, may
urs, though a much
The captain goes
seaman, with double
i^es called the kings
wag), whose office it
unodity, and stow it
ictionary, called the

of all the cutting

form round the fish,
I, a circle called the
ings are to be con-
lacliineiy uf blocka,

NonTinmir wHAti-mmKr.

a 10

Mikd the kent-uurchase, by which, with the aid of
a windlnaa, the body of the whale can be turned on
all sides. The harpoone-rs then, under the speck-
sioueer's direction, begm with a kind of spade (Jig.
3), and with huge knives, to tnakc l<mg parnllel cuts
from end to eno, which are divided by cross-cuts into
pieces of about half a ton. These are conveyed on
deck, and, bein; 'educed into smaller portions, are
received by two kings, who stow them in the hold.
Finally, being by other procHMcs still farthur divided,
it is received into casks, and the packing completed
by the instrument No. 3. As soon as the «;utting
officers have cleared the whole surface lying above
water, which does not exceed a fourth or a flfth of
the animal, the kent machinery is applieil, and turns
the carcass round, till another part, yet untouched,
is presented. This being also cleared, the mass is
again turned, and so on, till the whole has been ex-
posed, and the blubber removed. The kcnt itself is
then stripped, and the bones of the head being con-
veyed on board, there remains only the krtng, a huge
heap of fleshy and muscular substance, which is
abandoned, either to sink, or be devoured by the
flocks of ravenous birds and sharks whioii duly
attend on this high occasion. The blubber, now
deposited in the hold, is by various processes cleared
of its impurities, cut into small pieces, and deposited
in casks. While the Dutch establishment of 8mee-
renberg flourished, tliey extracted tlie oil in immense
boilers, constructed there for this purpose ; but when
the flshery was transferred to the icy banks in the
open sea, this operation was necessarily deferred
till the cargoes were deposited in the Dutch or
British ports.

The success of the fisheiy varies with the spot in
whirh whales are found. The most advant^ous
that the Greenland seas aflbrd has been considered
to be on the border of those immense fields of ice,
with which a gieat extent of them is covered. In

830

NORTHBRN WHALE-FISBERT

the open sea, when a whale ia struc!:, and plunges
beneath the waters, he may rise in any part of a
wide circuit, and at any distance from the boats ; so
that, before a second harpoon can be struck, he may
plunge again, and by continued struggles effect his
extrication. But in descending beneath these im-
mense fields, he is hemmed in by the icy floor above,
and can only find an aw.wsphere to breathe b]^
returning to their outer boundary. The space in
which he can rise is thus contracted from a large
circle to a semicircle, or even smaller segment.
Hence a whale in this position is attacked with much
better chance of success ; even two may be pursued
at the same moment, — a measure which, in the open
sea, often involves the loss of both. In the flourish-
ing state of the Dutch fishery, a hundred of their
vessels have been seen at once ranged on tiiemargia
of one of those immense fields, along which the boatu
formed so continuous a line that no whale could rise
without being immediately struck. This situation,
at the same time, is attended with considerable danger
from the disruptions and concussions to which these
plains are liable.

When the ship is surrounded with floating frag-
ments of ice, the fishery, though difiicult, is usually
productive. But the case is very different when
these pieces are packed together into a mass im--

Servious to ships or boats, yet leaving numerous
oles or openings, through which the whale can
mount and respire, without coming to the open
margin, or within reach of his assailants. The fish-
ers, when they see the whale blowing through one
of these apertures, must alight on the ice, and run.
full speed to the spot with lance and harpoon. At-
tack in such circumstances, however, is both difii-
cult and perilous ; and even when the whale is killed,
the dragging of Ids body either under or over th»
ce to the ship is a most tedious and laborious task,
which sometimes cannot be effected without outting
ihe carcass in pieces

tWnli^'iiMt ^SMMWWW

£-n8BERT

is struc'.:, and plunges
rise in any part of q
lice from the boats ; so
I can be struck, he may
led struggles effect his
iing beneath these im-
i by the icy floor above,
>sphere to breathe b]^
mdary. The space in
contracted from a large
iven smaller segment.
1 is attacked with much
en two may be pursued
sure which, in the open
f both. In the flourish-
ry, a hundred of their
:e ranged on the margit
3, along which the boatu
hat no whale could rise
truck. This situation,
fith considerable danger
sussions to which these

led with floating frag>
ugh difficult, is usually
i very different when
ither into a mass im>-
yet leaving numerous
which the whale can
: coming to the open
3 assailants. The iish-
I blowing through on?
ht on the ice, and run.
nee and harpoon. At-
however, is both diffi-
^hen the whale is killed,
her under or over th«
lus and laborious task,
ffectsd without outting

NORTHERN WHALB-VISHKRT.

881

M^en the great fields, in the progress of the tea-
eon, become open at various points, the fishery be-
comes liable to the same evils as occur among packed
ice. Still worse is the case when the sea is over-
spread with that thin newly-formed crust called bay-
ice. The whale easUy finds or beats a hole through
this covering, while neither can the boats penetrate,
nor the men walk over it, without the most immi-
nent danger. Yet Mr. Scoresby mentions a plan by
which he continued to carry on his movements, even
over a very slender surface of bay-ice. He tied to-
gether his whole crew, and made them thus walk
in a long line one behind another. There never fell
in above four or five at a time, who Were easily
helped out by the rest. The sufferers had a dram to
console them after their cold plunge ; and the com-
pensation was considered so ample, that Jack was
suspected of sometimes allowing himself to drop in
with the view of being thus indenuiifled.

Another grand distinction re^wcts, first, the Green-
land fishery, which, generally speaking, is that al-
ready described, and is chiefly distinguished by the
immense fields of ice which cover the ocean ; and,
secondly, the Davis's Strait fishery, where that ele-
ment appears chiefly in the form of moving moun-
tains, tossing through the deep. This last is arduous
and dangerous, but usually productive. It com-
menced at a comparatively late period, since it is
not mentioned by the Dutch writers prior to 1719 ;
and Mr. Scoresby has been unable to ascertain the
date when it was begun by the British. Within
these few years it has expenenced a remarkable ex-
tension, of which a full account will be given in the
course of this chapter.

The dangers of the whale-fishery, in spite of the
utmost care, and under the direction even of the
most experienced mariners, are imminent and ma-
nifold.

The most obvious peril is that of ihe ship being

822

NORTHERN WHALE-nSHSRT.

beset and sometimes clashed to pieces by the approach
and collision of those mighty Aelds and mowitains
of ice wiUi which those seas are continually filled.
The Dutch writers mention many of these ship-
wrecks, among which the following are the most re-
markable.

Didier Albert Raven, in 1639, when on the bor-
der of the Spitzbergen ice, was assailed by a furious
tempest. Though the ship was violently agitated,
he succeeded in steering her clear of the great bank,
and thought himself in comparative safety, when
there appeared before him two immense bergs, upon
which tiie wind was violently driving his vessel. He
endeavoured, by spreading all his sails, to penetrate
between them; but in this attempt the ship was
borne against one with so terrible a shock, that it
was soon felt to be sinking. By cutting the masts
the mariners enabled her to proceed ; yet, as she con-
tinued to take in water, several boats were launched,
which, being over-crowded, sunk, and all on board
perished. Those left in the ship found their condi-
tion more and more desperate. The forepart of
the vessel being deep in the water, and the keel
rising almost perpendicular, made it extremely diffi-
cult to avoid faUing into the sea ; while a mast, to
which a number had clung, broke, plunged down,
and involved them in the fate of their unfortunate
companions. At length, the stem separated from
tiie rest of the vessel, carrying with it several more
of the sailors. The survivors still clung to the
wretched fragments, but one after another was
washed off by the fury of the waves, whOe some, half
dead with cold, and unable to retain their grasp of
the ropes and anchors, dropped in. The crew of
eighty-six was thus reduced to twenty-nine, when
the ship suddenly changed its position, and assumed
one in which they could more easily keep their foot-
ing on board. The sea then calmed, and during
the recite thus afforded they.felt an irresistible \fi\>*

mi^nmmnmhfi'^.ii^l^Sm^j^mmsgm

i-nsHSRr.

pieces by the approach
fields and mountains
are continually filled,
many of these ship-
>wing are the most re-

39, when on the bor-
) assailed by a furious
as violently agitated,
lear of the great bank,
)arative safety, when
I immense bergs, upon
riving his vessel. He
his sails, to penetrate
ittempt the ship was
rrible a shock, that it
By cutting the masts
iceed; yet, as she con-
1 boats were launched,
mk, and all on board
hip found their condi-
atte. The forepart of

water, and the keel
ade it extremely diffi-
sea ; while a mast, to
broke, plunged down,
e of dieir unfortunate

stem separated from
r with it several more
rs still clung to the
le after another was
raves, whQe some, half

retain their grasp of
jed in. The crew of
to twenty-nine, when
position, and assumed
easily keep their foot-
n calmed, and during
felt an irresistible }f\\f

KORTHXRN WBALK-FISHERTt

838

pensity to sleep ; but to some it was the fatal sleep
of extreme cold, from which they uf er awok&
One man suggested the construction of a raft, which
was accordingly framed, contrary to the captain's
advice ; happily, no sooner was it launched than the
waves swallowed it up. The remnant of the vesse.
encountered next night another severe gale j and tha
sufferings of the crew, from cold, hunger, and burn-
ing thirst, were so extreme, that death in every form
seemed now to have encompassed them. In the
morning, however, a sail was descried, their signals
were understood, and being taken on board, twenty
survivors, after forty-eight hours of this extreme
distress, were restored to safety.

In 1670 the Blecker (Bleacher), Captain Pit, was
driven against the ice with such violence, that in an
instant sdl her rigging was dashed in pieces. Soon
after, twenty-nine of the crew quitted the vessel, and*
leaping by the help of poles and perches from
one fragment of ice to another, contnved to reach
the main field. Tlie captain with seven men re-
mained on board, and endeavoured to open a pas*
sage ; but soon after the ship again struck, when they
were obliged to go into a boat, and commit them*
selves to chance, the snow falling so thick that they
could scarcely see each other. As the weather
cleared, they (Uscovered their companions on the ice,
who threw a whale-line, and dragged them to the
same spot. There, the party having waited twelve
hours in hopes of relief, at length trusted themselves
to the boats, and in twelve hours were taken up by
a Dutch vessel.

Captain Bille, in 1675, lost a ship richly laden,
which went down suddenly ; after which the crew
wandered in boats over the sea for fourteen days
before they were taken up. Thirteen other vessels
perished that year in the Spitzbergen seas. Three
seasons afterward Captain Bille lost a second ship
by the violent concussion of the ice, the crew having

«34

MMTHIKN WBAtK'Minm.

Just time to save themselves on a frozen field. At
the moment of their disaster they were moored to a
large floe, along with another, a brig called the Red
Fox; which last shortly afterward underwent a
similar fate, being struckwith such violence, that the
whole, hull and masts together, disappeared almost
in an instant,— the sailors, like Captain Bille's com*
^y, having had merely time to leap on the ice.
The united crews now adopted various plans ; some
keeping their station, others setting out in boats in
different directions ; but all, in one way or other,
reached home. The same year the Concord went
down in an equally sudden manner ; but the crew
were happily taken up by a neighbouring ship.

The whale-fishery is not more distinguished for
examples of sudden peril and besetment thai), for
unexpected deliverance from the most alarming
situations.

Three Dutch ahips, in 1676, after having completed
a rich cargo on the northern coast of Spitzbergent
were at once so completely beset, that the crews in
^neral urged the necessity of proceeding over the
ice, and endeavouring to reach some other vessel.
Ouvekees, however, captain of one of tiie three,
strongly urged the obligation of doing all in their
power to preserve such valuable property, and they
agreed to make a farther trial ; when, in twenty days,
the ice opened, and they had a happy voyage home-
ward.

The Dame Maria Elizabeth, in 1769, had set out
early for the fishery, and was so fortunate as, by the
30th of May, to have taken fourteen whales. iTien,
however, a violent gale from the south blew In the
ice with such violence, that the captain found him-
self completely beset, and saw two Dutch vessels
and one Eng^sh go to pieces at a little distance. At
loisth a brisk gale from the north gave him the hope
•f being extricated ; when presently he was involved
^ a dense fog, which froze so thick upon the sail*

■WIWi

•ui-;'Vt!:i- J-'KBSSiWSsi&i'

^'^y^^^W^^l^i^S^II^^

»i-

m a frozen field. At
ley were moored to a
I brig called the Red
irward underwent a
uch violence, that the
r, disappeared almost
Captain Bille's com*

to leap on the ice.
various plans ; some
Uing out in boats in
1 one way or other,
ir the Concord went
anner; but the crew
Bfhbouring ship.
i>re distinguisned for
I besetment thao, for

the most alarming

Iter having completed
ioast of Spitzbergent
et, that the crews in
proceeding over the
some other vessel,
if one of the three,
>f doing all in their
e property, and they
vhen, in twenty days,
happy voyage home-
in 1769, had set out
0 fortunate as, W the
-teen whales. Then«
le south blew in the
captain found him-
two Dutch vessels
a little distance. At
th gave him the hope
mtlv he was involved
Mck upon the saihr

NORTBEKN WHALI-FISHERT.

82»

and Tigging, that the ship appeared a mere floating
iceberg. As the atmosphere cleared, tlie faint light,
and the birds winging their way to the southward,
announced the closing in of winter. Unable to malte
any progress, the seamen looked forward in despair
to the prospect of spending the season in that frozen
latitude. They had nearly come to the end of their
provisions, and famine was already staring them in
the face, when they thought of broiling the whales'
tails, which proved, very eatable, and even salutary
against the scurvy. Thus they hoped to exist till the
middle of February, beyond which the prospect was
very dismal ; but on the 12th November there arose
a violent north wind, which dispersed the ice. Their
hopes being now awakened, every effort was strained ;
and on the 18th a north-wester brought on so heavy
a rain, that next day they were entirely clear of the
ice, and had a prosperous voyage homeward.

The year 1777 was one wliich exhibited, on the
greatest scale, all the vicissitudes of this occupation.
Captain Brocrties, in the Guillamine, arrived that
year on the 22d June at the great bank of northern
ice, where he found fifty vessels moored and busied
in the fishery. He be.:?an it prosperously: the very
next day indeed he killed a large whale. The day
after, a tempest drove in the ice with such violence
that twenty-seven of the ships were beset, of which
ten were lost. Broerties, on the 25th July, seeing
some appearance of an opening, caused the GuiUa-
mine to be warped through by the boats; but, after
four days' labour, she found herself, with four other
ships, in a narrow basin, enclosed by icy barriers on
every side. The captain, foreseeing the danger of
permanent besetment, obliged the crew to submit to
a diminution of their rations.

On the Ist August the ice began to gather thick,
and a violent storm driving it against the vessels,
placed them in the greatest peril for a number of days.
On the 20th a dreadful gale arose from the north-

S20

irORTRXRlV WHALX-nSRKRT.

ea«t, in which the Guillamine suffered very comide*
i^le damage. In this awful tempest, out of the five
■hips two went down, while a tnird had sprung a
number of leaks. The crews were taken on board
of the two remaining barks, which they greatly in
commoded. On the 25th all the three were com
pletely frozen in, when U was resolved to send a
part" of ♦ • 9 men to seek aid from four vessels
w' a lys before had been driven lu-

ti>... i a l* distance ; but by the tiu .i iheir
arrival two o» tiiese had been dashed to pieces, and
the other two were in the most deplorable condition.
Two Hamburgh ships, somewhat farther removed,
had perished m a similar manner. Meantime the
former came in sight of Gale Hamkes' Land, in
Greenland, and the tempest still pushing them gra-
duaUy to the southward, Iceland at length appeared
on their left. The two more distant ones, com-
manded by Dirk Broer and Roel of Meyer, found a
little opening, through which they contrived to escape.
The crews of the three othere were beginning to
hope that they might at last be equally fortunate,
when, on the 13th September, a whole mountain of
ice fell upon the Guillamine. The men, half naked,
leaped out upon the frozen surface, saving with
difficulty a small portion of their provisions. The
broken remnants of ihe vessel were soon buried
under enormous piles of ice. Of the two other
■hips, one commanded by Jeldert Janz had just met
a similar fate, and there remained only that of Jans
Castricum, to which all now looked for refuge. By
leaping from one fragment of ice to another, the
men, not without danger, contrived to reach this
vessel, which, though in extreme distress, received
^hem on board. Shattered and overcrowded, she was
obliged immediately after to accommodate fifty other
■eamen, the crew of the Janz Christiaanz or Ham-
burgh, which had just gone down, the chief hai
pooner and twelve of the mariners having perished

^m

-nsiRRr.

luffered very comide*
empest, out of the five

I third had sprung a
were taken on board
rhich they ^eatly in
the three were com

resolved to send a
id from four vessels
Ben driven ^u-

by the tiu ^i iheir
lashed to pieces, and
t deplorable condition,
'hat farther removed,
nner. Meantime the
le Hamkes' Land, in

II pushing them gra-
id at length appeared
e distant ones, com-
oel of Meyer, found a
sy contrived to escape.
» were beginning to
be equally fortunate,
i whole mountain of
The men, half naked,
surface, saving with
leir provisions. The
»l were soon buried
. Of the two other
ert Janz had just met
led only that of Jans
oked for refuse. By
r ice to another, the
rtrived to reach this
me distress, received
Dvercrowded,she was
:ommodate fifty other
Christiaanz of Haln«
lown, the chief hai
iiers having perished

NORTHXftN WHALX-riSBlRT.

837

These numerous companies, squeezed into the crazy
bark of Castricum, suffered every kind of distress.
Famine, In its most direful forms, began to stare them
in the face. All remoter fears, however, gave way,
when on the 11th October, the vessel went to pieces
in the same sudden manner as the others, leaving to
the unfortunate sailors scarcely time enough to leap
upn the ice with their remaining stores, with great
difficulty they reached a field of some extent, and
contrived with their torn sails to rear a sort of co-
vering ; but, sensible that, by remaining on this deso-
late spot, they must certainly perish, they saw no
safety except in scrambling over the frozen surface
to the coast of Greenland, which was in view. With
infinite toil they effected their object, and happily
met some inhabitants, who received them hospitaoly,
and regaled them with dried fish and seals' flesh.
Thence they pushed across that dreary region, treated
sometimes well, sometimes churlishly ; but by one
means or other they succeeded at length, on the 13th
March, in reaching the Danish settlement of Frede.
rikshaab. Here they were received with the utmost
kindness, and, being recruited from their fatigues,
took the first opportunity of embarking for Denmark,
whence they afterward sailed to their native country.

The Davis's Strait fishery has also been marked
w th very frequent and fatal shipwrecks. In 1814
the Royalist, Captain Edmonds, perished with all her
crew; and in 1817, the London, Captain Mathews,
shared the same fate. The only account of either
of these ships ever received was from Captain Ben-
net of the Venerable, who, on the 15th April, saw
the London in a tremendous storm, lying to wind-
ward of an extensive chain of icebergs, among
which, it is probable she was dashed to pieces that
very evening. Large contributions were raised at
Hull for the widows and families of the seamen who
had suffered on these melancholy occasions.

Among accidents 4m a smaller scale, one of tba

*

tS^SSEL

838

MORTinRN WHAlK-rWKEllY.

most freqnont is, that of boats employed m pursuit
of the whale being overtaken by deep fogs or storms
of snow, which separate them from the ship, and
never allow them to regain it. A fatai mstance of
this kind occurred to the Ipswich, Cantain Gordon ;
four of whose boats, after a whale had been caught,
and even brought to the ship's side, were employed
on a piece of ice hauling in the line, when a storm
suddenly arose, caused the vessel to drift away, and
prevented her, notwithstanding the utmost efforts,
from ever coming within reach of the unfortunate
crews who composed the greater part of her esta-
blishment. Mr. Scorcsby mentions several casual-
ties of the same nature which occurred to his boats
companies, all of whom, however, in the end, hap.
pily found their way back. One of the most alanm
ing cases was that of fourteen men who were left
on a small piece of floating ice, with a boat wholly
unable lo witlistand the surrounding tempest; but
amid their utmost despair they fell in with the Lively
of Whitby, and were most cordially received on
boftrd*

Tlie source, howsver, of the most constant ala.
to the whale-fisher is connected with the movements
of that powerful animal, against which, with most
unequal strength, he ventures to contend. Gene-
rally, indeed, the whale, notwithstanding his im-
mense strength, ifc gentle, and even passive ; seeking,
even whon he is most hotly pursued, to escape from
his assailants, by plunging into the lowest depths of
the ocean. Sometimes, however, he exerts his
utmost force in violent and convulsive struggles;
and every thing with which, when thus enraged, he
comes into collision, is dissipated or destroyed man
instant. The Dutch writers mention Jacquez Vienkes
of the Gort Moolen (Barley Mill), who, after a whale
had been stnick, was hastening with a second boat
to the support of the first. The fish, however, rose,
and with its head struck the boat so furiously, that

■nSHIEIlT.

employed in pursuit
y deep fogs or storms
1 from the ship, and
A fatal instance of
ich, Captain Gordon ;
hale had been caught,

side, were employed
le line, when a storm
isel to drift away, and
g the utmost efforts,
5h of the unfortunate
Iter part of her esta-
ntions several casual-
occurred to his boats*
Bver, in the end, hap-
ine of the most alarm
en men who were left
•c, with a boat wholly
ounding tempest; but

fell in with the Lively
cordially received on

e most constant ala>
d with the movements
inst which, with most
s to contend. Gene-
twithstauding his im>
even passive ; seeking,
)ursued,to escape from
to the lowest depths of
(wever, he exerts his
convulsive struggles;
when thus enraged, he
ated or destroyed in an
ention Jacquez Vienkes
lill), who, after a whale
ling with a second boat
rhe fish, however, rose,
boat so furiously, that

NORTHERN WHALE-riSHXRY.

830

it was shivered to pieces, and Vienkes was thrown
with its fVagments on the back of the huge animal.
Even then this bold mariner darted a second har-
poon into the body of his victim ; but unfortunately
ne got entangled in the line and could not extricate
himself, while the other party were unable to ap-
proach near enough to save him. At last, however,
the harpoon was disengaged, and he swam to the
boat.

Mr. Scoresby, in one of his earliest vovages, saw
a boat thrown several yards into the air, from which
it fell on its side, plunging the crew into the sea.
They were happily taken up, when only one was
found to have received a severe contusion. Captain
Lyons of the Raith of Leith, on the Labrador coast,
in 1802, had a boat thrown fifteen feet into the air ;
it came down into the water with its keel upwards,
yet all the men except one were saved.

The crew of Mr. Scoresby the elder, in 1807, had
struck a whale, which soon reappeared, but in a
state of such violent agitation that no one durst ap-
proach it. The captain courageously undertook to
encounter it in a boat by himself, and succeeded in
striking a second harpoon ; but another boat having
advanced too close, the animal brandished its taU
with so much fury, that the harpooner, who was di-
rectly under, judged it most prudent to leap into the
sea. The tail then struck the very place that he
had left, and cut the boat entirely asimder, with the
exception of two planks, which were savedby hav-
ing a coil of ropes laid over them ; so that had he
remained, he must have been dashed to pieces.
Happily all the others escaped injury. The issues,
however, were not always so fortunate. The Aim-
well of Whitby in 1810, lost three men out of seven,
and, in 1813, the Henrietta of the same port lost
four out of six, by the boats being upset, and the
crews thrown into the sea.

In 1809, one of the men belonging to the Resolu-
Eea

830

hORTUKRIt WHALE-FISHERV.

tion of Whithy, itnck a s'.ckinj? whale ; after which
the mother, being seen wheeling rapidly round the
apot, was eagerly watched. Mr. Scoresby, being on
this occasion in the eapneity of barpooncr in another
boat, was selecting a situation for the piobable re-
appearance of the parent fish, when sudrlenly an in-
visible blow stove in fifteen feet of the bottom of
his barge, whicli filled with water and Instantly sunk.
The crew were saved.

Entanglement in the line, while the retreating
whale is drawing it oflf with rapidity, is often pro-
ductive of great disaster. A sailor belonging to the
John of Greenock, in 1818, having happened to step
into the centre of a coil of runnlrift rope, had a foot
entirely carried off, and was obliged to have tho
lower part of the leg amputated. A harpooner, be-
longing to the Henrietta of Wliitby, had incautiously
cast some part of the line under his feet ; when a
sudden dart of the fish made it twist round his body.
Ho had Just time to cry out,—" Clear away the line !
O dear !" when he was cut almost asunder, dragged
oterboard, and never more seen.

A whale sometimes causes danger by proving to
be alive after having exhibited every symptom of
death. Mr. Scoresby mentions the instance of one
which appeared so decidedly dead, that he himself
had leaped on the tail, and was busy putting a rope
through it, when he suddenly felt the animal sink-
ing from beneath him. He made a spring towards
a boat that was some yards distant, and, grasping
the gunwale, was assisted on board. The fish then
moved forwards, reared his tail aloft, and shook it
with such prodigious violence, that it resounded to
the distance of several miles. After two or three
minutes of this violent exertion, he rolled on his
side and expired.

Even after life is extinct, all danger is not over.
In the operation of flensing, the harpooners some-
times fall into tho whale's mouth, with the irami-

rniiKiiv.

K whale ; after which
ig rapidly round the
r. Scoreaby, beinjf on
harpooiicr in another
for the probable re-
ivhen suddenly an in-
!et or the bottom of
r and instantly sunlt.

while the retreating
apidity, is often pro-
atlor belonging to the
'iufr happened to step
ininK rope, had a foot
obliged to have tho
!d. A harpooner, be-
itby, had incautiously
der his feet; when a
twist round his body.
Clear away the line !
lost asunder, dragged
n.

danger by proving to
d every symptom of
ts the instance of one
lead, that he himself
s busy putting a rope
felt the animal sinlc-
ide a spring towards
distant, and, grasping
ward. The fish then
lil aloft, and shook it
, that it resounded to
After two or three
on, he rolled on his

1 danger is not over,
le harpooners sonae-
)uth, with the inuni-

iTn irrtl

NORTmilN WHAtC-mmKY.

881

nent danger of being drowned. In the cue of a
heavy swell they are drenched, and sometimet
washed over by the surge. Occasionally they have
t.ieir ropes broken, and are wounded byer.ch other's
knives. Mr. Scoreoby mentions a harp'^ner who,
after the flensing was completed, happc.;cd to havo
his foot attached by a hook to the kreng or carcass,
when the latter was inadvertently ^ut away. The
man caught hold of the gunwale of the boat; but
the whole immense mass was now suspended by his
body, occeivioning the most excnf'ating torture, and
even exposing him to the danger of being torn asun-
der, when his companions contrived to hook the
kreng with a grapnel, and bring it back to the 8ur«
face.

The whale, in attempting to escape, sometimes
exerts prodigious strength, and inflicts uix>n its pur-
suers not only danger, but the loss of their property.
In 1819, a boat's crew belonging to the Resolution
of Whitby struck a whale on the margin of a floe.
Supported by a second boat, they felt much at their
ease, there being scarcely an instance in wliich the
assistance of a third was required in such circum-
stances. Soon, however, a signal was made for
more line, and as Mr. Scoresby was pushing with
his utmost speed, four oars were raisied in signal
of the utmost distress. The boat was now seen
with its bow on a level with the water, while the
harpooner, from the friction of the line, was enve-
loped in smoke. At length, when the relief was
within a htmdred yards, the crew were seen ta
throw their jackets upon the neatest ice, and then
leap into the sea; after which the boat rose into
the air, and, making a majestic curve, disappeared
beneath the waters, with all the line attached to it.
The crew were saved. A vigorous pursuit was im-
mediately commenced ; and wie whale, being traced
through narrow and intricate channels, was disco-
vered considerably to the eastward, when three har-

IM

NOKTHMN WHAll-nSHCIIT.

Kons were darted at him. The line of two other
ate waa then run out, when, bv an accidental en-
tanfflement, it brolic, and enabled the whale to rarry
off in all about four milei of rope, which, with the
boat, were valued at liOl. The darinff fiMhers aKuin
([aveohaoe; thewhalewaaieen,butnii8(H>d. A third
tune it appeared, and was reached ; two more bar-
uoona wert struck, and the animal beinr plied with
lancea, becamo entirely exhausted, and yii-lded to
iu fate. It had by that time drawn out 10,440 yards,
or about six miles of line. Unluckily, through the
disengagement of a harpoon, a boat and thirteen
lines, nearly two miles in length, were detpched and
never recovered.

Whale-flshers sometimes meet with agreeable
surprises. The crew of the ship Nautilus had cap-
tured a fisht which being disentangled and drawn
to the ship, some of them were employed to haul in
the line. Suddenly they felt it pulled awaj as if
by another whale, ana havine made signals for
more line, were soon satisfled, by the continued
movements, that this waa the case. At length a
large ones rose up close to them, and was quickly
kil^d. It tlien proved, that the animal, while moving
through the waters, had received the rope into its
open mouth, and, struck by the unusual sensation,
held it fast between its Jaws, and thus became tlie
prey of his enemv.— The Prince of Brazils of Hull
had struck a small fish, which sunk ajqiarently dead.
The crew applied all their strength to heave it up ;
but sudden and violent Jerks on the line convinced
them that it was still alive. They persevered, and
tt length brought up two fishes in succession, one of
which had many turns of the rope wound round its
body. Having been entangled under water, it had,
in its attempt to escape, been niore and more impli-
cated, till, in the eno, it shared the fate of its com<
panion.

i

'■■J.f"~-'''"Ap,^:'^i^i-^)fy\,:-^'^' -'/

E-nSHlET.

rhe line of two other
, bv an aRcidrntal en-
lt'(( tho whale to cany
rope, which, with thn
le darinK flHhers affaiii
i,but miRsed. A third
ched ; two more har-
limal beins plied with
lusted, ana yielded to
rewn out 10,440 yardn,
inluckily, throuifh the
a boat and thirteen
th, were detached and

meet with afrreeable
hip Nautilus had cap-
lentanffled and drawn
B employed to haul in
it pulled awHj as if
nff made signals for
BO, by the continued
le case. At lenj^th a
lem, and was quickly
I animal, while moTlni;
ived the rope into its
lie unusual sensation,
and thus became the
ice of Brazils of Hull
sunk apparently dead,
ingth to heave it up ;
m the line convinced
rhey persevered, and
I in succession, one of
rope wound round its
I under water, it had,
niore and more impli-
1 the fate of its com<

NORTHIIUf WHAlK'VniRIIT.

883

A view of the whale-fishery, as it existed prior to
1S90, has thus been drawn fifom ample and authen-
tic materials afforded by the Dutch and other ear-
lier writers, as well as by the valuable work of the
younger Mr. Scoresbv. Having understood, how-
ever, that within the last few years the trade has
been turned into several new channels, we applied
to certain intelligent individuals in the principal poru,
from whom we have obtained such valuable mfor-
ncttion as enables us to bring down the history of
its operations to the very latest period.

A remarkable change has lately taken place as to
the waters in which the fishery is carried on. For
more than a century it was confined to the space be-
tween Spitzbergen and Greenland, commonly called
tho Greenland 8ea. Early in the eighteenth century
Uavis's Strait began to be frequented, and the ships
sent thither gradually increased in number. A
somewhat more ample return, in fact, was drawn
f n thobtr western seas, though Mr. Scoreaby con-
. ' ves that the longer and more expensive range,
V )>_ the increased hazards, fully counterbalanced uiis
11 ivantage. When he wrote, the Greenland fishery
was stiUtl.' HKMt considerable, and the ships pro-
ceeding tV.. I )r were in the proportion of three to
two of tiioise sent to Davis's Strait. Since that time
its produce has sustained a remarkable diminution ;
the whales which, durme He course of two centuries,
had been gradually veii.iug from place to [dace, have
at last sought refuge in the remote and inaooeaaible
depths of the icy sea. Hence this flahery haa been
almost abandoned; having employed, in 1899, only
one vessel, though in 1830 the number haa been in-
creased to four. For thia almoat entire loss of their
original ground, the whalers have been compensated
by the new and more extensive field opened up to
them on the western coast. The important expedi-
tions sent out by government under Ross and Parrv
have made them acquainted with a number of ad>

mm

334

NORTHERN WHALR-FMHIRT.

mirable stations on the farther side of Davis's Strait
and in the higher latitudes of Baflbi's Bay, which
were before bttle known, and scarcely ever fre-
quented. They now, therefore, prosecute their
fishery almost exclusively in those seas, and follow
a method which is in many respects different.

The vessels destined for tiiat quarter sail usually
in March, though some delav their departure till the
middle or even the end of April. They proceed
first to the northern parts of the coast of Labrador,
or to the mouth of Cumberland Strait, carrying on
what iscalled the South-west fishery. After remain-
ing there till about the beginning of May, they cross
to the eastern shore of the Strait, and fish upwards
alonv the coast, particularly in South-east Bay,
North-east Bay, Hingston Baj or Horn Sound.
About the month of July, they usually cross Baffin's
Bay to Lancaster Sound, which they sometimes
enter, and occasionally even ascend Barrow's Strait
twenty or thirty miles. In returning, they fish down
the western shore, where their favourite stations are
Pond's Bay, Agnes's Monument, Home Bay, and
Cape Searle. If the shii)s be not previously filled,
they commonly remain till the end of September,
and in some instances persevere till late in October.
Our informant at Petevhead mentions a vessel from
that port which was clean on tiie last day of Septem-^
ber; yet th3 captain (Hroceeded with such spirit
and resoluti'jn, that after this date he caught five
whales, mak<ni; his cargo equal to the average of the
year, and rea;h9d home by the 27th October.

The vessel! f jr Greenland saU aboat the beginning
of April, and return fluently in July, seldom re-
maining ca tlie fishing-ground beyond the end of
August.

The Davis's Strait fishery has always been sub-
ject to remarkable casualties, which have been still
farttier increased since the vessels took a wider
lange, and ventured into the higher and more ihnec

UHERT.

ide of Davis's Strait
Baflin's Bay, which

scarcely ever fre-
e, prosecute their
ise seas, and follow
!cts different,
quarter sail usually
sir departure till the
ril. They proceed
coast of Labrador,

Strait, carrying on
lery. After remain-
^ of May, they cross
it, and fish upwards
in South-east Bay,
or Horn Sound,
sually cross Baflln's
eh they sometimes
end Barrow's Strait
ming.they fish down
ivourite stations are
t. Home Bay, and
ot previously filled,
J end of September,

till late in October,
(itions a vessel from
i last day of Septem-
id with such spirit
date he caught five
to the average of the
!7th October.
1 aboat the beginning

in July, seldom re-

beyond the end of

B always been sub-
vhich have been still
essels took a wider
^r and more frraec

latitudes,
that, —

NORTHERN WHALS-FIBHRRT.

Our correspondent at Aberdeen state*,

In 1819, out of 63 ships there were lost 10

. . 1821, ... .79 II

. . 1839, .... 60 7

These wrecks have ^nerally occurred ut conse*
quence of the ships bemg beset in their attempt to
pass from the eastern uoast to Lancaster Sound,
across that great barrier of ice which fills the centre
of Bafihi's Bay. The sides of the vessels have
sometimes been pressed together ; at other times they
have been squeezed out of the water and laid upon
the ice. But experience seems to have enabled the
mariners to guard, in some degree, against these
dangers. Last year, of eighty-nine ships sent out
to this fishery, only four were lost ; namely, the
Dauntless, Bramham, of Hull ; the Rookwood, Law-
son, of London ; the Jane, Bruce, of Aberdeen ; the
Home Castle, Stewart, of Leith.

' Several of these shipwrecks have been attended
with very peculiar circumstances. In 1835, thb
Active, Captain Gray, of Peterhead, was so conK
pletely beset in Exeter Sound, that on the 1st
Octolier, the crew were obliged to abandon her and
take a pajssage in other ships. Next year a vessel,
sent out to ascertain her fate, found her on the
beach, at a little distance from the place of beset-
ment, completely tminjured. She was got off in a
few davs, and brought homevwith her cargo to Pe-
terhead, where she arrived on the 12th September.

In 1836, the Dundee, Captain Dawson, of London,
having ventured into the higher parallels of BzftMa
Bay, was, in 74° SO' north latitude, so completely
beset and enclosed within impenetrable barriers, that
the crew could obtain no assistance from the other
ships. To add to their distress, a Dutch vessd near
them was completely wrecked; and the men, to the

888

NOBTHSBN WBAUB«n8HKRT.

number of forty>siz, came on board entirely desti-
tute. They were supported from the 23d August to
the 6th October, when they set out in their Iraats to
endeavour to reach the Dai^h settlement of Levely ; ,
but as this was 350 miles distant, much doubt was
entertained if they would ever arrive at their des-
tination. TTie crew of the Dundee, reduced to
extreme distress by the want of provisions, succeeded
in killLag some seals and bears, on whose coarse
flesh they were thankful to sustain life. On the Ist
February they caught a whale, and on the 16th a
second, which afforded great relief, especially as
other fishes wene attracted by the desire to feed on
the carcass of tliis huge animal. Unfortunately for
their repose, Hbfi aea was not so completely frozen
but that enonnous icebergs were still tossing throurii
it with thundering noise, tearing up the fields by
which the ship was surrounded. On the S3d Feb-
ruary; one of uncommon magnitude was seen bear-
ing directly vsgm, their stem, its collision with which
appeared inevit!d)le; whereupon the seamen snatch-
in'' their clothes, leaped out upon the ice, and ran
to some distance. The iceberg rolled on with a
tremendous erasli, breaking the field into fragments,
end hiding from their view the ship, which they ex-
pected never to see again ; but happily it passed by,
and the Dundee aiqpeared from behind it uninjured;
a spectacle that was hailed with three enthusiastic
cheers. The mariners lost sight of the sun for
seventy-five days, during which they suffered such
severe ccdd, liuit they could not walk the deck for
five minutes without being frost-bitten. Luckily,
they were able to pick up a quantity of spars and
staves belonginff to the Dutch wreck, which afforded
» supply of fuel, otherwise they must have perished
from the intensity of the frost. By great good for-
tune, too, the body of ice in which they were enclosed
drifted to the southward more than eleven degrees
rfrom 74° 30', down to 63°), or about 800 miles, and

•nraiRT>

board entirely destU
>m the 23d August to
t out in their Iwats to
lettlement of Levely ; ,
ant, much doubt was

arrive at their des-
Dundee, reduced to
provisions, succeeded
.n, on whose coarse
itain life. On the 1st
9, and on the 16th a

relief, especially as
the desire to feed on
1. Unfortunately for
so completely frozen
e still tossing through
ring up the fields by
d. On the 33d Feb-
litude was seen bear-
B collision with which
m the seamen suatch-
pon the ice, and ran
!rg rolled on with a
e field into fragments,
s ship, which they ex-
t happily it passed by,
t behind it unipjured;
ith three enthusiastic
sight of the sun for
eh they suffered such
lot walk the deck for
xost-bitten. Luckily,
[uantity of spars and
(vreck, which afforded
ly must have perished
. By gteat good for-
ich they were enclosed
! than eleven iegteea
■ about 800 miles, and

NOHTHERR WHALS-nSBBRT.

837

was thus brought ne'irly to the mouth of Davis's
Strait. On the Ist April, when the Lee, Captain
Lee, of Hull, had just commenced her fishing, the
crew were agreeably surprised by meeting the Dun-
dee, whose catastrophe had excited the greatest in-
terest at home; they supjdied her liberally with
provisions, and every necessary for enabling ner to
reach BriUin. The vessel was adcordingly liberated
on the 16th April, and on the 2d June arrived off
Shetland, whence intelligence was immediately
spread of this happy deliverance.

One of the most affecting shipwrecks which ever
occurred in the northern seas was that of the Jean,
of Peterhead, in 1826. Of this we can give a full
account from an interesting narrative by Mr. Cum-
ming, the smveon, an eye-witness and sharer of the
calamity. This vessel sailed on the 16th March,
having on board only twenty-eight men, bvt received
at Lerwick a complement oi twenty-thnse natives of
Shetland; owing to which arrangement, as well as
by contrary winds, she was detained till the 38th.
IVom the evening of that day to the Ist April, the
ship encountered very stormy weather, which she
successfully withstood, and was then steered into
those western tracts of the Greenland sea which are the
most favourable for the capture of the seaL On the
14th, in the latitude of 68°, the fishery began most
prosperously. In one day the seamen kuled 1138
seals, and the entire number caught in five days
exceeded 3070. This scene, however, could not be
contemplated without some painfid impressions.
The seals attacked were only tne young, as they lay
fearlessly reposing on the ice, before they had yet
attempted to plunge into the wateiy element. One
blow of the dub stunned them completely. The view
of hundreds of creatures bearingsome resemblance to
the human form, writhing in uie agonies of death,
and the deck streaming with their gore, was at once
distressing and disgusting to a spectator of any feel-
F f

888

NORTHXRlf WBALI-nSHXItT.

ing. Howerer, this eTil soon gave 'way to others of
a more serious nature.

On the moming of the 18th April the saQors had
begun their fishery as usual ; but a breeze sprung up,
and obliged them by eleven o'clock to suspend ope-
rations. The gale continually freshened, and was
the more unpleasant from their being surrounded
with loose ice, Wiiich a dense and heavy fog made it im-
possible to distinguish at any distance, llie mariners
took in all sftil, but did not apprehend danger till six
in the evening, when the wind, which had been con-
tinually increasing, began to blow with tenfold fury.
All that the narrator nad ever heard, of the united
sounds of thunder, tempest, and waves, seemed faint
when compared with the stunnmg roar of this hurri-
cane. At eight the ship was borne upon a stream
of ice, from which she received several severe con-
cussions ; the consequence of which was that at ten
the water began to enter, and at twelve no exertion
in pumping could prevent her from being gradually
filled.

At one in the morning she became completely
waterlogged' She then fell over on her beam-ends,
when the crew, giving themselves up for lost, clung
to the nearest ol^ect for immediate safety. By judi-
ciously cutting away the main and fore masts, they
happily enabled the ship to right herself, when being
drifted into a stream of ice, she was no longer in
duiger of immediate sinking. The whole hull, how-
ever, was inundated and indeed immersed in water,
except a portion of the quarter-deck, upon which
the whole crew were now assembled. Here they
threw up an awning of sails to shelter themselves
from the cold, which had beoome so intense as to
threaten Uie extinction of life. Those endowed
with spirit and sense kept up the vital power bv brisk
movement ; but the natives of Shetland, who are
accused on such occasions of sinking into a selfish
despondency, piled themselves together in a he^,

imiiiiiiNiii

•TISBIRT«

piTe way to others of

April the sailors had
ut a breeze sprung up,
lock to susiwnd ope*
r freshened, and was
eir being surrounded
I heavy fog made it im*
itance. The mariners
rehend danger till six
, which had been con-
low with tenfold fury.
T heard, of the united
d waves, seemed faint
ling roar of this hurri-
lome upon a stream
A several severe con-
which was that at ten
at twelve no exertion
from being gradually

e became completely
ver on her beam-ends,
Ives up for lost, clung
diate safety. Tiy judi-
1 and fore masts, they
rht heraelf, when being
she was no longer in
The whole hull, how-
sd immersed in water,
ter-deck, upon which
ssembled. Here they
to shelter themselves
ome so intense as to
life. Those endowed
;he vital power by brisk
of Shetland, who are
' sinkine into a selfish
!S togetner in a heiq>,

MORTHBRM WHALI-mHlRT. 389

with the view of deriving warmth from each other's
bodies, lliose in the interior of the maps obtained
thus a considerable temperature, though accompanied
with severe pressure ; and blows were given, and
even knives drawn, to gain and to preserve this ad-
vantageous position. On the I9th, one Shetlander
died of cold, another on the 20th, and a third on the
21st,— events felt bv the others as peculiarly gloomy,
cihiefiy, it is owned, as forming a presage of their
own impending fate.

On the 32d the sun began to appear amid showers
of snow ; and the 33d Was ushered in by fine weather
and a clear sky. The opinions of the crew were
now divided as to what course they should steer in
search of deliverance. Two plans were suggested.
They could either stretch nortnward into the fishing
stations, where tliey might expect, sooner or later, to
meet some of their countrymen, by whom they
would be received on board ; or they might sail
southward towards Iceland, and throw themselves
on the hospitality of its inhabitants. The former
plan was in several respects the more promising, es-
pecially as a vessel had been in sight when the storm
arose. But its uncertaintier were also very great.
They might traverse for weeks these vast icy seas,
amid cold always increasing, aiid with imminent
danger of being swallowed up by the waves. Ice-
land was distant, but it was a oefinite point ; ar. \
upon this course they at last wisely determineu.
Several days were spent in fitting out their two re-
maining boats — all the othera having been swept
away— and in fishing up from the interior of the
vessel every article wnich could be turned to account.
During this operation, the weather continuing fine,
they could not forbear admiring the scene by which
they were surrounded. The sea was formed as it
were into a beautiful little frith, by the ice rising
uound in the most varied and fantastic forms, some-
times even assuming the appearance of cities adorned

■^■«^,yyy^|gjLj^^uy..;^i:J,i-jy..^^^^

6)

S40

KORTHSRN WBALE-FMHIRT.

with towen and forests of columns. Continual
eflforts were necessary, meantime, to keep the wreck
on the icy field ; for had it slipped over into the sea, of
which there appeared a strongr probability, it would
have ffone down at once. By the 96th the boats were
completely ready, having on board a small stock of
provisions, and a single change of linen. At half-
past one in the mommg of the 97th, the mariners
took leave, with some sorrow, of the vessel, which
" seemed a home even in ruins," leaving the deck
strewed with ^othes, books, and provisions, to be
swallowed up .,/ the ocean as soon as the icy floor
on which it rested should melt away. .

The two boats, having received forty-seven men
on board, lay very deep m the water; so that when
a smart breeze arose, tne men were obliged to throw
away their spare clothing and every thing else whidi
could be wanted, and soon saw their little wardrobe
floating on the face of the sea. The leaky state of
one of the barges entailed the necessity of hauling
it on a piece of ice to be repaired. The seamen
were frequently obliged also to. drag them both over
large fields, and again to launch mem. However,
a favourable wind m ten hours«nabled them to make
forty-one mUes, when they came to the utmost verge
of the icy stream, and entered upon the open ocean.
Their fears were not yet removed ; for if a heavy

Ele had arisen, their slender bai-ks must soon have
en overwhelmed. There blew in fact a stiff breeze,
which threw in a good deal of water, and caused
severe coid; however, at seven in the evening, they
saw, with inexpHressible pleasure, though dim and
distant, the lofty and snow-cai^ied mountains of Ice-
bnd. But these were still mty miles off, and much
might intervene ; so that the night, which soon closed
in, passed with a mixtuit of joy and fear. Fortunately
the mommg was favourable ; and about four they saw
ablack speck on the surface of tb<; ocean. It proved
to be an islandt naked, rocky, ^nd seemingly uniii>

■H

^M±^

■raRBRT.

columns. Continual
ne,to keep the wreck
id over into the sea, of

probability, it would
le 36th the boats were
»aTd a small stock of
fe of linen. At half.
le 97th, the mariners

of the vessel, which
IS," lcaving[ the deck
uid provisions, to be
soon as the icy floor
away. .

ived forty-seven men
water; so that when
vere obliged to throw
ivery thing else which

their little wardrobe
The leaky state of

necessity; of hauling
»ired. The seamen

drag them both over
ch them. However,
inabled them to make
le to the utmost verge
upon the open ocean,
oved ; for if a heavy
urks miist soon have
r in fact a stiff breeze,
[>f water, and caused
1 in the evening, they
are, though dim and
ed mountains of Ice-
T miles off, and much
fat, which soon closed
iudfear. Fortunately
d about four they saw
h <i ocean. It proved
and seemingly unin>

M

KORTHBUt WKALC-nSHKRT.

841

habited ; vet to set foot on any shore, however wild
and desolate, promised a temporary relief. On
turning a promontory, what was their joy to see a
boat pushing out to meet them! and they were re-
ceived by the natives of Grimsey (the name of the
little island) with every mark of kindness and com-
passion. The seamen were distributed among the
half-subterraneous abodes, and received a portion
of the frugal and scanty fare on which the inha-
bitants subsisted. They were long without any
means of communication by speech ; but at length
the clergjnnan appeared, who was able to converse
in Latin with Mr. Gumming. The latter, inquiring
how his countrymen could best reach the mainland,
was informed, that the islanders wouTd assist in con-
veying them to Akureyri, a small town, the residence
of the nearest Danish governor, though situated at
the distance of sixty-eight miles. Accordingly, at
seven in the morning of the Sd May, they set sail,
and, after a tedious voyage, reached at nine in the
evening the coast of Iceland. TTiey rowed along
the shore, touching at variouspoints, where they were
hospitably received ; till on Thursday, 4th May, they
saw a cluster of irregular wooden structures, which,
to their surprise, proved to be Akure3rri, the capital
of this quarter of the island. They were here also
received with the most humane hospitidity, and re-
mained three months before they cotdd obtain a pas-
sage home; during which delay unfortunately they
lost nine of their number, chiefly from mortification
and other morbid affections occasioned by extreme
cold. In the middleof July, they procuredapassage
in a Danish vessel, which brought Uiem and their
boats near to the coast of Shetland. Having landed
at Lerwick, they were conveyed by his Majesty's
ship Investigator to Peteriiead, where they arrived
on the 5th August.

The whale-fishery deserves finally to be consi- ■
dered in its commercial relations, under which u-
Ff3

iti«

S4>

NOETinnM wHALi-romiBT.

pect it ponessefl conaiderable importaneei whether
we consider the capital invested, or the amotmt and
value of the proceed*.

The ilrat and principal employment of capital in
this trade consists in tne construction and fittinBOut
of the vessels adapted for its various purposes. This
expense greatly exceeds that of other ships of the
same dimensions, owing to the manner in which the
timbers must be doubled and fortified, the necessity
of having seven boats, a copious supply of line, nu-
merous casks, and iishing implements. Mr. Scoresby
states, that the Resolution of Whitby, of 391 tons,
was built in 1B03 with all these equipments, but
without the outfit for a particular voyage, at 6381/.
In 1813, the Esk of Whitby, of 364 tons, cost
14,000<. t but this included the outlay for her first ad-
venture, which, being supposed to amount to 1700/.,
would make the expense of building and equipment
only 19,300/. The sum of UfiOOl. is stated to us
from Hull, as the estimate for building and fbmisMng
at that port a ship of 350 tons, in the vear 1813. Since
this last period a great reduction has taken place.
Mr. Cooper, in 1894, reported to the House of Com-
mons, that the sum required was only 10,000/. Ac-
cording to the information received in July, 1830,
from me different ports, we find that such a ship
may now be built and completely equipped for about
8000/. A Dundee correspondent calculates that half
of this sum is expended m carpenter work, and the
other half in saus, rigging, casks, lines, and other
fidiing apparatus.

Bemdes this original cost, a large annual expen-
diture is incurred m the prosecution of the fishery.
There is ftrst the outf t, being the provisions and
other supidies put on board before the ship goes to
sea. Mr. Scoresbystates the expense of fitting out
the Resolution of Whitby in 1803, to have amounted
to 1470/.— 4iamely, provisions^ coals, dec. 769/. ; in-
orance, 413/.; advance-mon^ to aeaaien, 9882.

BHnn

B-rUIUET»

I importaneet whether
ted, or the amotuit and

ployment of capital in
itruction and flttingout
ajious porposes. Thia
; of other ahipe of the
e manner in which the
fortified, the necessity
one supply of line, nu-
lements. Mr.Scoreshy
f Whitby, of 391 tons,
these equipments, but
cular voyaige, at €391/.
by, of 354 tons, cost
e outlay for her first ad-
led to amount to 1700/.,
building and equipment
14,000/r is stated to us
building and furnishing
in the year 1813. Since
ictionhas taken place.
1 to the House of Corn-
was only 10,000/. Ac-
received in July, 1830,
) find that such a ship
Btely equipped for about
dentcalciuates that half
larpenter work, and the
casks, lines, and other

, a large annual expen-
raeeution of the fishery.
iin| the provisions and
before thie ship goes to
le expense of ntnng out
1 1803, to have amounted
asi coals, &c. 769/. ; in-
auBf to aeaawD, 9882.

KORTHIRN WRALX-nsHIRT.

84a

Hie statements forwarded at the present date (July
1630), from the several ports upon this subject, vaiy
in a remarkable degree. At Leith the estimate is
from 700/. to laoof. ; Aberdeen, 1400/. ; Peterhead,
from ISOO/. to 1600/. ; while at Hull this outfit is
rerk3ned at 3000/., expressly stated as exclusive of
seamen's wages. Probably there may have been
some diflTerence cs to the articles included in these
estimates. An English crew, besides, may expect to
be more amply provisioned, while the vmrage fW>m
Hull is undoubtedly somewhat longer. To this first
outlay must be added the expenses incurred in pro-
secuting the fishery, and in preparing the cargo for
sale. The pay of the master and harpooners is
very Judiciously made to depend almost entirely
upon their success. They- receive a certain sum for
every whale struck, and afterward for every ton of
oil extracted. The seamen, also, though they must
have their monthly Wages, obtain additional allow-
ances in the event of a prosperous voyage. At Pe-
terhead, it is estimated, that if a ship comes home
clean, the entire loss will exceed 3000/. ; while iVom
Hull we have received a calculation, that the total
expense of a voyage, which produces 900 tons of
oil, will be 3500/., exclusive of insurance.

From these data we mav form some estimate of
the entire capital invested in the trade. Although
the number of ships annually sent out scarcely ex-
ceeds ninety, it is probable that there may be at least
a hundred in a stete fit for sailing. The annual ex-
penditure on each may be averaged at 3000/. The
value of wharves, warehouses, machinery for ex-
tractmg the oU, Ac. was stated by Mr. Cooper to
the House of Commons a* amounting at Hull to
60,000/. or 70,000/. ; and as that port enjoys about a
third of the trade, these estabtisfaments may pro-
bably amount altogether to 300^000/. We thus ob*
lain

844 NORTRIRNv WIIAll>rUliniT.

100 ships at £8000, £800,000

90 voyages at £3000 970,000

Warehouses, &c. 900,000

Capital invested, .... £14)70,000

Tho produce of the fisherv consists of oU and of
whalebone ; none of the other articles, in an esti-
mate of this kind, being worthy of mnch considera-
tion. Tlie prices of the^e two coi lodities vary
greatly, both at different pekiods and from one year
to another.

Whale-oil, in 1743, is stated to have sold for 18/.
per ton ; but in the following year it fell to 14/. In
1801, it rose so high as 60/., but in 1809, was only
31/., and in 1807, had sunk so low as 91/. In 1813,
it reached a b'<;her price than ever, the iineat quality
i)eing sold for 60/. ; but the prosperous fishery of
1814 brouffht it down to 39/. There has been since,
on the whole, a considerable reduction of price,
chiefly, it may be presumed, from the extensive use
of coal gas. Mr. Scoresby reckons the average of
the nineteen years, ending with 1818, at 34/., 15*.
while an intelligent correspondent at Aberdeen states
that of the last ten at 99/. Ei. The current price
(July, 1830), is given in the Scotch ports at from 94/.
to 96/. -, in Hull at 94/.

Whalebone bore anciently a very high price, when
the rigid stays and the expanded hoops oi our grand-
mothers produced an extensive demand for this com-
modity. The Dutch have occasionally obtained 700/.
per ton, and were accustomed to draw 100,000/. an-
nually from England for that one article. Even in
1763 it still brought 500/., but soon fell, and has
never risen again to the same value. During the
present century, the price has varied between 60i. and
800/., seldom falling to the lowest rate, and rarely
exceeding 150/. IVfr. Scoresby reckons the price in
(he five years ending 1818, at 90/., while at present

v-rumniT.

£800,000

970,000

900,000

£1,970,000

confiiBts of oil and of
ir articles, in an estW
tiy of ni'"*)! considera-
wo coi lodities vary
Dds and irom one year

d to have lold for 16/.

year it fell to 14i. In

but in 1809, waa only

I low as 91/. In 1813,

ever, the finest quality

prosperous fishery of

There has been since,

le reduction of price,

rom the extensive use

eckons the average of

ith 1818, at 34/., 16*.

dent at Aberdeen states

U. The current price

!otch ports at from 94/.

I very high price, vrhen
led hoops of our grand*
e demand for this com-
isionally obtained 700/.
I to draw 100,000/. an-
I one article. Even in
tut soon fell, and has
18 value. During tho
raried between 60/. and
Dwest rate, and rarely
jy ri'kons the price in
i 90/., while at present

NORTHIRN WUALI-rURKRT.

84S

(July, 1830) it is stated from the differrnt ports to be
from 160/. to 180/. This is for what is called the rizt-
bone, or such pieces as measure six feet or upwards in
length; those below this standard are usually sold
at half-price. It may appear singular that whale-
bone should rise while oil has been so decidedly
lowerifd ; but the one chanffc, it is obvious, causes
tho otiier. Oil, being the mun product of the fishery,
regulates its extent, which being diminished by the
low price, the Quantity of whalebone is lessened,
while tho demand for it continuing as great as before,
the value conseuuently rises.

The whale-fishery, for one ship and one season, is
a complete lottery, the result of which, according to
the skill and guoa fortune of the persons employed,
fluctuates between a largo profit and a severe loss.
Sometimes a vessel is so unlucky as to return clean;
another brings only one fish ; while eight or nine,
producing about ninety tons of oil, are considered
necessary to make an average voyage. There are
fortunate instances of a much larger produce. The
greatest cargo ever known by Scoresby to have been
Drought from the northern seas was that of Captain
Souter, of tho Resolution of Peterhead, in 1814. It
consisted of forty-four whales, yielding 999 tons of
oil, which, even at the reduced rate of 39/., sold for
9568/., raised by the whalebone and bounty to about
11,000/. In 1813, both the elder and youngrer Mr.
Scoresby brought cargoes, loss in Quantity, indeed,
but which, from the oU selling at 60i. per ton, yield-
ed a still greater return. The former, in the course
of twenty-eight voyages, killed 498 whales, whence
were extracted 4946 tons of oil, the value of which
and of the whalebone exceeded 150,000/. ; all drawn
by >iim out of the ctepths of the northern ocean.

The Dutch have published tables, exhibiting the
results of Uieir fisheiy for the space of 107* years, be-

* The ream VSH, 1S7S, tnd 1074, am niM Included, Um waf wiUt
france bavloi eauMd a auipeniton uf Ui« fiaiterjr.

•46

NotTnmN WHAii-rnnmir.

tween 1669 and 1778, both incltuive. During thnt
period tht-y sent to Qreeniand 14,167 ■hips, of which
561, or about four in the hundred, wer"¥8t Thev
took 67,590 whale., yielding 3,105,696 qiiardcelen^
of oil, and 93.I7!.,H60 pounds of bo,^, wKyle hied
a value of lfi,63l,rf The exp,,„;« of flttlng 3
fct'fcSS)°""i!;^*' '" n.879.6ia/. Value of Ship.

Ac i^Al ^.T "^ P^''P""nK «''« oil, bone,
&c., 8,667,109/. Total expenae., 14,917,160/. ; leuv-
h.g a pront of 3,714,149/. ll.e Davi;'. Strait fl.K.
between 1719 and 1778, employed 3161 veswl. of
^^'''l' f7''\'' '"'"• '•'•'« I"^'*d"«e wa. 4,98fi,93S/..

^i^lJ*^ Pe Greenland liBherywoidd thus have

that the putch, „, their e.timatc of expense., have
not uicluded the original cost of the vesiels. In U.e
subaequent yearn, from 1785 down to 1794, the num-

^iA^Lt"^ ^^ ""^"^"^ '° »**'y' ^^ th« trade i.
""il^ n*? ^een earned on with absolute lou.

The BntiBh fishery has lately vieldcd a produce
and value much exceeding that of the Dutch during
the period of its greatest prosperity. In the five
years ending with 1818, there were' imported into
England and Scotland 68,940 tuns of oiVand 3490
tons of whalebone; which, valuing the oil at 36/..
10.., and the bone at 90/., with 10,000/. in skins

EJq^ Lf"" P'^'^HSS ^ 9.834,110/. sterUng, o^
666,898/. per-annum. The fishery of 1814, a year
peculiariy fortunate, produced 1437 whales from
breenland, yielding 19,139 tuns of oil, which, even «
ihe lowerrate of 39/., including the whaleb;)ne and

^S'!?!^ '^^ ^ *? P"^""" 'to™ Davis's Strait,
formed altogether a value of above 700,000/.

1 *-A '"•'''••' ot oU conMlna from 18 lo 91 ilcknu or fVain 17 b. u

i-naimr.

Incluiivo. During that
<l 14,167 ship, of which
idred, were lost. They
r 3,105,696 qtiardcelen*
of boiie, which yielded
B expemo of fitting out
9,61!)/. Value of «hipf
m-pariiiK the oil, bone,
iBCB, 14,917,160/.; leav-
le Davis's Strait flghery,
•loyed 3161 vessels, of
Toduce was 4,988,936/.,
»f expenses, left a profit
Ishery would thus have
r cent., and the Davis's
Jut it may be observed,
natc of expenses, have
; of the vessels. In the
lown to 1794, the num-
sixly, and the trade is
with absolute loss,
lely Yielded a produce
at of the Dutch dwring
rosperity. In the live
re were imported into
0 tuns of oil, and 3430
aluingr the oil at 36/.,
ivith 10,000/. in skins,
9,834,110/. sterUnir, or
ishery of 1814, a year
3d 1437 whales from
M of oil, which, even at
ing the whalebone and
ice from Davis's Strait,
ibove 700,000/.

to 91 itckaM, or turn 77 U> W
ilch pouodi are cqiMl to iflO lU

ito EnilUi moMjr, tte tola it

NOllTinUUf WHALI'tHRIBT.

947

The foUowins has been furninhed to us from an
authentic source m the result uf Uie fishery of tlie year
1899, (UBtinipuBhiiig the ports : —

rorti.

Nn.of
Bhlpa.

Timaafa.

riab.

Oil.

Boaa. 1

Tuna.

II7I

H7

lUQS

3Uai

849

8ns

38
481
Ml
I44S
3S7

Tona.

C'wt

AteffiMn

Btrwick

IlundM

Hull

11
33

M
3

3301
300

3031

IO.MM

l«l

asas

714
1301

noa
Sin

lOU

84
II
77
33B
SI
71

a

30
45
118
34

83

8

M

935

37

48

>
97
»
78
91

14
18
»
ID
0
4

a

11

10
18
8

Kirkcaldy

I.«lth

l/ondon

HiinlroM

NawcMlla ....

WbUbr

ToMla..

8P

<IS,HI1

871

10,879

807

MO

nriMATlD TALDI.

10,679 tuns* of oil at 96/ 966,800/.

Wtk tona whalebone at 180/ 109,360/.

376,160/.

In the Commercial Tables presented to the House
of Commons in 1830, the entire proceeds of last year
are stated at 498,691/. 6f. 6<i. ; but this, of course,
includes also the southern fishery. Of this amount
there were exported to foreign countries, oil to the
Talue of 73,749/. lOi. 6(/., and whalebone amounting
to 40,666/. ISi. 6d. ; making in all, 114,416/. 6s. It
may be mentioned, that this trade is now carried
on entirely without legislative- encouragement, the
bounty having ceased to be granted since the year
1894.

• It mar ba obaanrcd that, In an tnaaa ^atamantt, the maaanre am-
aloyad la tha tun of 988 oM wine gallona, aqual to 900 0-lOUia Imparial
jMimlifil nUooi*

t48

IfORTHXRN WBAU-nSHXRT.

"niere has also been a somewhat singfular chanve
lu the ports from which the fisheiy is chiefly carried
on. In London were undertaken all the discoveries
which led to its establishment ; and for some time a
complete m-;jopoly was enjoyed by the great com-
pames formed in that city. Even between the years
1780 and 1790, the metropolia sent out four times
the number of vessels that sailed from any other
port. It was observed, however, that her fishery
was on the whole less fortunate than that of the new
nvals which had sprung up; and her merchants
were so much discouraged, that, in Mr. Scoresby's
time, they equipped only seventeen or eighteen ves-
sels. They have since almost entirely abandoned
the trade, employing last year and the present not
more than two ships. Hull early became a rival to
London, having sent out vessels at the very com-
mencement of the fishery. Although checked at
first by the monopoly of the great companies, as
soon as the trade became free, she prosecuted it with
distinguished success. In the end of the last century
that town attained, and has ever since preserved,
the character of the first whale-fishing port in Bri-
tain. "Whitby engaged in this pursuit in 1763, and
earned it on for some time with more than common
success; but her operations have since been much
lunited. liverpool, after embarking in the under-
taking with spirit, has now entirely relinquished it.
Meantime the eastern ports of Scotland have steadily
curried on, and even extended their transactions,
while those of the country at large were diminish-
ing. The increase has been most remarkable at
Peterhead; jand indeed this town, as compared espe-
cially with London, must derive a great advantage
from avoiding, both in the outward and homeward
voyrge, 600 miles of somewhat difficult navigation.
The following summary has been collected from
Mr. Scoresby, as the average quantity of shipping
fitted out in the different ports for nine years ending

C-nSHXRT.

iwhat singular change
iheiy is chiefly carried
ken all the discoveries
; and for some time a
red by the great com-
7en between the years
a sent out four times
lailed from any other
over, that her fishery
te than that of the new
; and her merchants
lat, in Mr. Scoresby's
iteen or eighteen ves-
9t entirely abandoned
r and the present not
arly became a rival to
lels at the very com-
/Uthougfa checked at
great companies, as
she prosecuted it with
md of the last century
Bver since preserved,
e-fishing port in Bri-
I pursuit m 1763, and
h more than common
ave since been much
larking in the under-
tirely relinquished it.
Scotland have steadily
id dieir transactions,
large were diminish-
most remarkable at
m,aa compared espe-
te a great advant^e
ward and homeward
it difficult navigation.
9 been collected from
quantity of shipping
for nine years ending

NORTHBRIf WnALE-nsRXnT.

849

with 1818 ; and the comparison of it with the num«
ber sent out in 1830, will show the present state of
the trade :—

Average of
1810-18. 1830

EMeiiAND, — Berwick, IX 1

Grimsby, 1 0

Hull , 53| 33

Liverpool, 1 0

London, 17 : 2

Lynn, ll 0

Newcastle 4| 3

Whitby, St 3

91| 41

Scotland,— Aberdeen, lOf 10

Banff, ,..| 0

Burntisland, 0 1

Dundee, 7| 9

Greenock, I 1

Kirkcaldy, | 6

Kirkwall, f 0

Leith, 8} 7

Montrose, .31 4

Peterhead, 6| 13

40} 60

lOtflLiy est •«••••••« •lol'J 91

The following list of the ships, sent out in 1830,
with the tonnage and masters, may interest some
classes of readers : — „
Gg

wHM

360 NORTBERK WHAIE-FIBHERT

HULL — 33.

T
Ahnm,Jaektoiu . . .

Al&ed, Bras*

Andrew Marvel, Orton

Ariel, Rogers

Brunswick Blyth. . . .
Comet, WoodaU, . . .

!>nnage.
.319
.322

..377
.340
.3.57
.311
.374
.286
.275
.289
.360
.351
.360
.364
.300
.316
.374

Toi

Jane, Maddison

Kiero, Martin

Kirkella, Carlill

Laurel, Manger

Lee, Lee

Lord Wellington, Ham

359
363
410
321
363
i-
354
385
262
286
307
320
328
305
360
281
342

Dorton, Linskill. ....
Dnncombe, Scoffin. . .

Eagle, Wright

Ellison, Jackson

Everthorpe, Johnston.
Gilder, M'Kenzie. . . .
Harmony, Bramham. .
Harmony, Parker. . . .
Ingria, Wilson. ....
Isabella, Humphrey. .

Mary Frances, Coldray
North Briton, Story.
Ozenhope, M'Intosh, .
Progress, Dannatt, . .

Swan, Dring.

Venerable, Bennett. . .
Volunteer, Markham. .
William. North

William Torr, Dannatt
Zephyr, Ash

LONDON — 2.

Margaret, Float. . . .

. 351 1 Neptune, Wallace. . .

WHITBY 2.

291

Phoenix, Mills.

]

. 324 ! William and Ann, Terry

NEWCASTLS — 3.

.362

Cove, Pdmer 373 Lady Jane, Fleming, .

OrenvilleBay, Warham. 340

390

BERWICK — 1.

Norfolk, Harrison, . .

310

KIRKCALDY 5.

Caledonia. Todd. . . .

..373
..319
..336

Rambler, T/iJson. . . .
Triad, Youni

.282
.«87

Earl Percy, Stewart.
Egginton,iS(oiar/. . .

BURNTISLAND — I.

Majestic, Davidson.

TIBHSRT

B, Maddison 359

ro, Martin 362

(ella, Carlill 410

rel, Manger 321

, Lee 363

1 Wellington, Harri'

m 354

; Frances, CMray, 385
th Briton, Story, . 262
nhope, M'Intosh. . . 2S6
Tress, Dannatt, . , , 307

m. Bring. 320

erable, Bennett. , . . 328
inteer, Markham. . . 305

liam, North 350

liamTorr, Dannatt. 281
hyr, Ash 342

tone, Wallace. ... 291

iamand Ann, Terry. 362

jr Jane, Fleming, . . 390

.310

ibler, V/utton.
id, Younr .

..282
..«87

—I.

kon.

NORTHBRN WHAIE-PISHERT.

LBITU — 7.

351

_ _ Tonnnge.

Baffin, SmitA 321

Juno, Lyall 345

North Pole, Smith. ... 312
Prince of Orange, Cfuthrie359

Tonnngs,

Rattler, Stodarl 348

Ulvcrstone, Liston. . . . 354
William and Ann, Smith 388

ABERDEEN— 10,

Alexander, Allan. .... 252
Bon Accord, Parker. . . 364

Dee, Cook 319

Hercules, Reid 852

Lstitia, Clark 318

Middleton, Jame» 298

Middleton, Mills 329

Neptune, Bruce 282

Princess of Wales, Gray 308
Saint Andrew, Reed. . . 313

PETERHEAD 13.

. Commerce, Cordiner. . 241

♦Eclipse, Penny 287

Gleaner, Shand 262

Hannibal, Birnie 315

Hope, Volum 251

James, Hogg. 346

♦Mary, Stewart 157

♦Perseverance, Ogston. 240

Resolution, Philip 400

Resolution, Hogg 291

Superior, Manion 306

Traveller, Simpson. . . . 400
♦Union, Mackie 224

DUNDEE — 9.

Achilles, Thorns 367

Advice, Deuchars 324

Dorothy, Davidson. . . . 369

Fairy, Welch 247

Friendship, Chapman. . 304

Horn, Stevenson 370

Princess Charlotte, Adam-
son 357

Thomas, Thorns 356

ThreeBrothers, Cameron 339

Eliza Swan,' Fulton. . . 306

London, Bum 345

Monarch, Davidson. ... 311

XONTSOSB — 6.

Spencer, Robertson. . . . 340
Johnof Greenocl^ Comi 316

In all, ninety-one ships,— four of which, marked thus ♦,
were for Greenland, all the others for Davis's Strait.

■rilM

S6

4ReTIC UEOLOOT*

CHAPTER X.
Arctic Geology.

Thf Geology of Spltzbergen, of East or Old Green-
land, iiid the countries examined and discovered by
Ross, ""any, Scoresby, and Clavering, although as
yet bi, imperfectly known, is far from being unin
teresting. It exhibits the same series of rocks, and
the same general arrangements, as occur in other
countries, the geognostical structure of which has
been thoroughly explored: The fossil organic remains
which, in all parts of the world, afford so much in-
formation in regard to the former condition of the
climate, seas, animals, and vegetables of the globe,
are not wanting in these remote and desolate regions ;
and, lastly, the Arctic Geology has afforded to the
mineralogist specimens of many of the rarer, and of
some of the more precious minerals and ores : —

1. North Cape, Cherie Island, Hope Island, TTie
Thousand Islands, Spitzbergen, and Ross's Islet,

North Cape. — The great primitive land of Scan-
dinavia continues onward to the extreme point of
Norway : but in this high latitude some new formp-
tions make their appearance among the older. The
sandstone-quartz of Alten has been known since the
travels of the celebrated Baron Von Buch. On the
cast, towards the Russian dominions, there is a con-
sid'irabie tract which deviates more from the primi-
tive tbvmation than the sandstone-quartz of Alten
does. SandstoM and conglomerate extend across the
subjacent gneiss in a horizontal position. These
evidently secondary rocks probably belong to the old
red sandstone formation of some authors. Hence,

KiiHsmmmm»m

OOT.

X.

gy-

, of East or Old Green,
led and discovered by
ilavering, although as
far from being unin
e series of rocks, and
Its, as occur in other
ructure of which has
fossil organic remains
Id, afford so much in-
rmer condition of the
getables of the globe,
I and desolate regions ;
r has afforded to the
ly of the rarer, and of
tierals and ores : —
md, Hope Island, The
and Ross's Islet.
imitive land of Scan-
the extreme point of
ude some new formp-
mong the older. The
been known since the
1 Von Buch. On the
inions, there is a con-
more from the primi-
itone*quartz of Alten
rate extend across the
ital position. These
)ably belong to the old
me authors. Hence,

ROPB ISLAND.

859

in Finmark we find ourselves on the edge of a great
secondary basin.

Cher^ Island. — The first land which rises above
the level of the ocean in the Arctic sea, beyond the
North Cape, is the small Cherie Island (Dear Island),
about 10 miles long, in north latitude 74° SO*, lon(r.
80° E., which isentirelycomposedof secondary rocks
horizontally stratified, and cut perpendicularly on the
coast into cliffs. The principal mcks are sandstone
and limestone, in which veins of leadglance or sul-
phuret of lead, sometimes containing native silver,
occur. The limestone abounds in shells in a fossil
state ; but shells very different from those that at
present inhabit these northern seas : the sandstone
contains a bed of coal, from two to lour feet thick, —
a fact subversive of that opinion ^vilich maintains that
coal is wanting in Arctic countries. In Scoresby's
drawing of Cherie Island three conical hills are re-
presented ; these, in all probabiUty, are of igneous
origin, probably secondary trap.

Hope Island and The Thousand Islands. — Farther
towards the north the depth of the sea is so incon-
siderable and unvarjring, that seamen, after seeing
the horizontal strata of Cherie Island, conclude that,
in their course northward, they sail first over the
horizontal basis of Cherie Island, and next over strata
which are visible in Hope Island and the Archipelago
of The Thousand Islands. The strata visible in
Hope Island and the Archipelago of The Thousand
Islands are said to be of blacKish clay-slate. Hope
Island, situate on the south coast of Edge's Island,
lies in N. lat. 76° 20', and longitude 20° E. It is
nine leagues long, but scarcely a mile broad, and
lies N.E. by E., and $.W. by W. It consists of five
mountains: the northernmost one is the highest; and
those succeeding diminish gradually in size. The
Thousand Islands is a large group of small isles in«
terposed between Hope Island and the south coast
of Edge's Island.

I

'^*;

854

AaonO OBOLOOT.

SpUzberretu—ThiB large island, although not the
most northern known land, is nearly so. It lies
between latitudes 76° 30« and 80° 7' N., and between
the longitudes 9° and 98° £. On taking a general
view of this island, the principal object that strikes
the eye are numberless mountain-peaks, ridges, and
precipices, rising immediately from the sea often to
a hei^t from 3000 to 4600 feet above the sea-level.
The various brown, green, and purple tints of the
land, as seen from a distance, are strikingly con-
trasted with the snow-capped summits, ridges, and
acclivities, and the valleys filled with snow or with
Racier-ice; which latter often extend downwards to
.the coast, forming splendid and lofty icy-cliiTs, from
100 to 400 feet high. On the east coast are two
large islands, viz. £dge*t bland and Aorth-eait

On approaching towards the west side of Stant'
fordand, on the east coast of Edee'i Land or Island,
between 77° and 78° north latitude, the lowest rock
is a coarse gnmular trap, split by means of vertical
rents into imperfect columns. This bed forms a flat
extent of coast of about ten miles and a quarter broad,
and forty-one miles long; and is the base or funda-
mental rook of an alternation of fine granular tand-
stone, an arenaceous marl-elate, compact eiliceous
limettone, and frequent repetitions of the trap-iook.
Organic remains were not met with either in the
sandstone or limestone bv Professor Keilhau; but in
some specimens collected at Cape Faneshaw, in that
part of Spitsbergen named A«» Frieeland, by the
officers of Captain Parry's expedition, we noticed
silicified tnadrtpoiree, retepores, orthoceratites, tere-
irattdites, and earditei. This same formation extends
to north latitude 80°, and is conjectured by Kielhau
to form the greater part of East Spitzbergen. It is
true that some boulders of granite were met with,
but these may have come from the great primitive
chain of West Spitzbergen. Professor Keilhau found

>0T.

ind, although not the
3 nearly so. It lies
0° 7' N., and between
On taking a general
al object that strikes
lin-peaks, ridges, and
(rom the sea often to
above the sea-level.
i purple tints of the
, are strikingly con-
nmunits, ridges, and
id with snow or with
ixtend downwards to
lofty icy-cliffs, from
east coast are two
and and Northrtatt

west side of Statu-
dge'i Land or Island,
ade, the lowest rock
l>y means of vertical
This bed forms a flat
I and a quarter broad,
is the Imse or funda-
(fine granular $and-
!, compact tiliceou$
ms of the trap-rook.

with either in the
ssor Keilhau ; but in
le Faneshaw, in that
V Friesland, by the
ledition, we noticed

orthocerattteSf ten-
le formation extends
jectured by Kielhau

Spitsbergen. It is
[lite were met with,
I the great primitive
feasor Keilhau found

•WPK*

BPITZBEROSN

S58

an interesting deposite of tkelUday in Stansforeland,
in which the same kinds of fossil-shells were found
as in a similar clay on thti southern coasts of Norway.
This deposite extends onwards nine and a half miles
from the shore, and rises 100 feet above the present
level of the sea. Bones of whales have been seen
in The Thousand Isles, at a considerable height
above the level of the sea, and probably imbedded in
this ihell-day. Are we to infer, from the situation
of this modem clay, that Spitzbergen has risen from
the bgttom of the sea at a comparatively recent
period? Limestone, like that at Cape Faneshaw,
occurs in the island named the Jiorth-east Land, on
the east coast of Spitzbergen. The officers of Cap-
tain Parry's expedition also found granite there.
The west and north coast of Spitzbergen are com-
posed principally of older rocks, viz. primitive and
sometimes transition rocks. The primitive rocks of
West Spitzbergen appear at the South Cape in latj-
tude 76i°. They are vertical strata of mica-slate, with
numerous beds of quartz, ranging from north-east to
south-west. In mm Sound and Bell Sound these
rocks form the high land ; and to judge from the
form of the mountams, these or other primitive rocks
ascend higher on the west coast. The primitive
rocks near South Cape appear in part overlaid with
the sheU-clay. A new formation of red sandstone
and gypsum occufs westward along trie seacoast in
fiords under the high chains, and also in small low
islands which lie in front of the coast. In the year
1836, sea-horse fishers from Finmark brought sixty
tons of coal from Ice Sound, in north latitude 78°, to
Hammerfest in Norway; and we are informed by
Scoresby, that the coal is so easily procured, that
many of the Dutch fishers a few years s«o, were in
the habit of laying in a stock of this useful mineral,
for fuel on the passage homeward. The coal of
Spitzbergen which extends beyond north latitude
79°, resembles in some places caimel coal ; in others

iuOhdiW

806

ARCTIO OKOlOOr.

it is brown coal or liniite. Scoresby, a little to the
north of north latitude 79°, at Mitre Cape, observed
the hills to be composed of gneiss, mica-slate, and
limestone,— and in King's Bay, a little to the south
of this cliff, on the coast, natural arches of marble.
On the north coast of Spitzbergen, in some points,
as at Red Beach, secondary rocks of red sandstone,
probably new red sandstone, occur; but the prevail-
ing rocks are of an older date, being principally pri
niitive, with less frequently rocks of the transition
class. The primitive rocks mentioned in Parry's
narrative are granite, gneiss, mica-slate, hornblende-
•late, primitive limestone or marble, quartz-rock,
dolomite marble, chlorite-slate, and clay-slate. In
the mica-slate precious garnets were frequently met
with. The transition rocks were principally clay-
elate, quartz-rock, and limestone. In some points
alluvial deposites were met with, and brvam coal or
lignite, either of new, secondary, or of tertiary for-
mation, was noticed.

Mqffen Island, a small low island, lying on the
north side of Spitzbergen, in north latitude 80° 1',
longitude 12° 43' east, was visited by Mulgrave, who
says it had not been noticed by the older navigators.
It may be of new formation, and, as Scoresby re-
marks, has probably been thrown up by the currents
from each side of Spitzbergen, meeting. It is of a
roundish form, about two miles in diameter, and has
a shallow lake in the middle. The lake, when Scores-
by saw it, was frozen over, except thirty or forty
yards round the edge, and this near the end of July.
The whole island is covered with gravel, and with-
out the least vegetation. It is but a/ewfeet above the
level of the sea. The only piece of drift-wood found
on it by Mulgrave, which was about tliree fathoms
long, and as thick as the n)izen-mast of a ship, hsid
been thrown over the sea-beach and laynear the lake.
Captain Parry landed on several islands on thenortli-
ero coast, viz. l,ow Island about seven miles long,

oor.

oresby, a little to tbe
Mitre Cape, observed
fieiss, mica-slate, and
r, a little to the south
ral arches of marble,
rgen, in some points,
cks of red sandstone,
jcur; but the prevail-
being principally pri
cks of the transition
nentioned in Parry's
ica-slate, hornblende-
marble, quartZ'TOck,
, and clay-slate. In
were frequently met
fere principally clay-
le. In some points
h, and brtrwn coal or
■y, or of tertiary for-

island, lying on the
north latitude 80° 1',
;ed by Mulgrave, who
the older navigators,
ind, as Scoresby re-
vn up by the currents
meeting. It is of a
in diameter, and has
le lake, when Scores-
iccept thirty or forty
near the end of July,
th gravel, and with-
i/ a/ewfeet above the
i of drift-wood found
about three fathoms
i-mast of a ship, had
and lavnear the lake,
islands on thenortli-
it seven miles lon|f,

JAN HAYKNS ISLAND.

SAT

V hich appeared composed pf transition quartz-rock.
t^AldenMetOn which werj ^-und primitive gramtes,
quartz-rock, and gneiss} iifd JRm»'» Wei, a remark-
able spot, the most northern known land of the globe,
being situated in north latitude 80° 48i', he found to
be composed of ^roy and ndduhgraniie-gnntt, viihtch
it very coaru, gratuUar, occaiionaUy porvhyrttte, vnth
imbedded prtdout gameU; alto afteth-rtd vaneiy

of Ae tame rock,

Remarks.— From the preceding details, it appears
that Spitzbergen and its neighbouring isles afford
rocks belonging to five of the great classes admitted
by geologists,— namely, primitive, transition, secon-
dary, tertiary (1), and alluvial. No true volcamc
rocks are mentioned by authors. Ores are of rare
occunence, small portions of iron-pyrites and of cfey
iron-stone being the only metalliferous minerals
enumerated. The dolomite-marble of Hecla Cove,
mentioned by Parry, agrees in colour, sixe oip^a,
and other characters, with the statuary marble of
Italy. In these islands the precious garnet is met
with. Its occurrence on Ross's Islet, and its known
distribution in other countries, shows that the pre-
ciout garnet, qf all the gemt, hat the widest geo-
graphical range, extending, m the ."wrlA^rn AmM-
phere.frtm the equator to the high laiUitde 80° 48V

" Jan Mayen's Island.— This island, according to
Scoresby, is situated between the latitudes of 70°
49* north, and 71° 8' 20" north, and between the
longitudes of 7° 36' and 8° 44' west. It » about
ten leagues long from north-east to south-west, and
is in no place above three leagues in breadth. The
peak of Beeienberg, the highest summit mthe island,
Scoresby found to be 6870 feet above the sea, conse-
quently higher than any of the summits m Spitzber-
gen and Greenland. It was seen by Scoresby at
the distance of 100 miles. The fbllowing account
of the geognosy of the only part of the island hitherto

■AM

858

AKOnO OEOLnoT.

examined is give?) hy Scoresby, and we know it it
correct, having in our poBBcssion the specimens col-
lected during the excursion :—

"I left my ship," says Captain Scoresby, " at three
quarters past one in the morning, accompanied by
Captains Js ikson and Bennet, whose snips wern
near at thp amc, and landed at half-pBst two, amid
a considerable surf, on a beach covered with a coarse
black sand. This sand, which formed a very thick
bed, covered over im extent of two - Hirce miles, and
about a furlong in breadth. It' ixtureoftVon

land, augitc, and olivineor rhry riie bhick parts,

which were very heiivy, and attracitd by the

magnet, had an appearance oa.^ ; gunpowder.

After a few feet rise, forming mk of black

■and, the strand proceeded inli >>n a horizontal
line for aliout a fourth of a mile, where if was ter-
minated by irregular cliiTs. The stran I appeared
to have been occasionally covered with the sea, as
it was strewed with drift-wood, part of which was
tolerably good timber, and the rest bruised and a
little worm-eaten. I had not advanced many paces
before I observed signs of a volcano. Fragments
of compact and vesicular lava were met with at every
step ; blocks of burned clay were next met with ;
ana, nearer the cliif, large masses of red clay, partly
baked, but still in a finable state, occurred in great
abundance. Numerous pointed rocks, probably of
the trap formation, were projecting through the sand.
One of these, which was vesicular basalt, had numer-
ous grains and crystals of augite imbedded in it.
Along with these was a rock nearly allied in appear-
ance to the celebrated millstone or vesicular basalt
of Andemach. After leaving the sea-shore, I per-
ceived no other mineral but such as bore undoubted
marks of recent volcanic action, viz. cinders, earthy
slag, burnt clav, scoriae, vesicular lava. The place
from whence these substances appear to have been
discharged being neari we attempted to reach it. In

OOT.

)r, and we know it i*
n the speciiiiern col-

fi Scoresby, " at three
ing, accompanied by
, whose snips wero
half-past two, amid
jovered with a coarse
formed a very thick
vo • iiircemile8,and

I xture of iron
lilt; black parts,
:irfra(;i:dby the

■ gunpowder.

iiik of black
11 1 horizontal
If, where if was ter-
'he strand appeared
red with the sea, as
I, part of which was
3 rest bruised and a
dvanced many paces
'olcano. Fragments
jre met with at every
ere next met with;
B8 of red clay, partly
te, occurred in great
I rocks, probably of
ng through the sand.
trbaaalt^ad numer-
gite imbedded in it.
irly allied in appear-
i or vesicular basalt
he sea-shore, I per-
1 as bore undoubted
, viz. cinders, earthy
ar lava. The place
appear to have been
pted to reach it. In

JAN MAYIN'a ISLAKP.

SM

performing the ascent, the steepness of the hill and
the looseness of the materials made the undertaking
not a little arduous. We frequently slid backwards
several paces, by the pieces of lava giving way be-
neath oui feet ; in which case the ground generally
resounded as if we had been travellmg on empty me-
tallic vessels or vaulted caverns. The baked clay,
and other loose rocks, consisted chiefly of large
masses at the bottom i>f ' ' hill; but about the
middle of the ascent i'. '/, .ibstances were in
smaller fragments. T>.>VfrM i 3 top, blocks of
half-baked red cIhv, op.KiiDiajt many crystals of
augite, wero again (nbtwith; iri t about the south*
em part of the summit, a ruyged wall of the same
sort occurred, giving the mo'intain a castellated
form of no small magiiiflcence. On reaching this
summit, estimated at 1500 feet above the sea, we
beheld a beautiful crater, forming a basin of 600 oi
600 feet in depth, and 600 or 700 yards in diameter.
It was of a circular form, and both the interior and
the sides had a similar inclination. The bottom of
file crater was filled with alluvial matter to such a
neight, that it presented a horizontal flat of an ellip-
tical form, measuring 400 feet by 340. A subterra-
Bean cavern penetrated the side of the crater at the
Aottom, from whence a spring of water issued, which,
after running a sliort distance towards the south,
disappeared in the sand. From this eminence we
had a most interesting prospect. Towards the north
appeared Beerenberg, now first seen free from clouds,
rising in great m^esty into the region of perpetual
frost. At the foot of the mount, on the tjuth-east
side, near a stupendous accumulation of lava, bearing
the castellated form, was another crater of simdar
form to the one described above. Towards the
■outh-west the utmost extent of the island was
visible ; while towards the north a thick fog ob-
scured the prospect, which, as it advanced m uately
grandeur towards us, gradually shrouded the dis*

f

89w

AROno OtOLOOT.

tout aeenery, until the nearer mountains wot»
wrapped in impenetrable gloom. The Ma at the
•ame time was calm, the sun bright, and the at-
mosphere of half the hemisphere without a cloud.
Excepting the interest excited by the volcano, Bcer-
enbeiv sunk every other object into comparative
insignlflcance. A rocky hill, with a precipitous side
'owards the sea, lying a little to the westward, I
iescended towards it from the ridge of the crater,
with the expectation of finding some other kind of
(Tck than what had yet been met with. It was
found to consist only of a cliff of yellowish gray
Iriable earth or clay, in which crystals of augite,
along with black roundish granular pieces of basalt,
lay imbedded. A piece of iron, which appeared to
have been derived from ironstone by a smelting pro.
cess conducted in the fhmace of naXtite, was found
near the volcanic mount. Being very cimibrous, it
wa» laid aside by our party as we ascended, and un.
fortunatelT left behind by as when we quitted the
shore. The cliffs here afforded but few specimens
of plants. Indeed, we travelled a considerable dis-
tance before we could perceive the least sign of vege-
tation ; as we advanced, however, we met with tufts
of plants in ftill lldwer, scattered widely among the
volcanic rocka ; but, under the last cUff we visited,
the variety was greater and the specimens more
vigorous. Among the plants we recognised rumex
digynus, saxiftaga tricuspidata, and OK»dtifblia,
uvnana peploides, silene acaulis, draba vema, &c.
We returned to the ships at six in the evening. A
nsl-'ng party which I sent out. proving unsuccessful
m toe offing, approached the shore about two miles
to the eastward of the place we visited, where, though
the surf was very conaiderable, and the strand tery
contracted, they eflbcCed a landing. They observed
oiii::.! drift-wood, a boafii oar, a ship's mast, and
•pine other wrought wbod, scattered atong the shore.
Eve^ rock they noticed, and all the specimens they

mr mounUhta w«n
om. The Ma at the
in bright, and the at<
lere without a cloud,
by the volcano, Beer*
ect into comparative
vith a precipitous side
e to the westward, I
0 ridge of the crater,
; some other khid of
n met with. It was
liflTof yellowish gray
:h crystals of augite,
lular pieces of basalt,
1, which appeared to
>ne by a smelting pro>
of natm%, was found
ng very cumbrous, it
we ascended, and un<
vhen we Quitted the
d- but few specimens
id a considerable dis-
the least signofvege-
er, we met with tufts
ed widely among the
last cliff we visited,
the specimena more
ve recognised nunex
a, and oppodtifblia,
lis, draba vema, &c.
t in the evening. A
proving unsuccessful
ore about two miles
{sited, where, though
and the strand tery
ing. They observed
a ship's mast, and
eredalonffthe shore.
i the spectmens they

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WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80

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imsmiftm^

OLD ORBENLANl). '

brought away, bore the same volcanic character as
those I observed. Near some large fissm-es, which
here and there occurred in the rocky and precipitous
cliff, immense henps of lava were seen, which ap-
peared to have been poured out of these chinks in
the rock. Cinders, earthy slag, iron-sand, and frag-
ments of trap-rocks, covered the beach and so much
of the cliff as they had an opportunity of examining.
The volcano discovered in this excursion I ventured
to name Esk Mount, after the ship I commanded,
and the bay where we landed Jameson Bay, in re-
membrance of my friend Professor Jameson."

Captain Scoresby farther remarks, that Esk Mount
appears to have been in action in the spring of the
following year; for, on the 39th of April, 1818, being
off Jameson Bay, he observed near to Esk Mount
considerable jets of smoke discharged at intervals
from the earth. The smoke was projected with
great velocity, and seemed to rise to twice the height
of the land, or about 4000 feet. Captain Gilyott, a
Greenland fisher, also observed the same appear-
ance, with this addition, that once he noticed a shin-
ing redness resembling the embers of an immense
fire. This fact serves to account for some strange
noises heard by the seven Dutch seamen who at-
tempted to winter here in the year 1633-4. In the
beginning of the night of the 8th of September, in
particular, they "were frightened by a noise as if
something had fallen very heavy on the ground ; but
saw nothing." This, instead of being the fall of an
iceberg, as some have supposed, was probably a
volcanic phenomenon.

3. Old Greenland.— This extensive land, which,
according to some, is a continuation of the continent
of America, while others view it as a group of large
islands, extends from north latitude 59° 14', to 72*
.•56' north latitude. The few details regarding its
geology we owe to Giesecke, who spent many years
on the west coast,— Scoresby, who explored th«
Hh

.^^'''

r

362

ARCTIC OEOLOOT.

east coast,— and Captain Ross, who sailed to the top
of Baffin's Bay. "

East Coast of Greenland.— Th\a iron-bound coast
is barren, rugged, and mountainous ; and even in the
wanner seasons of the year but few animals or
vegetables assist in varying the monotonous and
dreary scene. The average elevation of the coast
IS about 3000 feet. Several mountains measured by
Scoresby on the Liverpool coast were found to be
4000 feet; and Werner Mountains in Davy Sound
were estimated, by the distance at which they were
seen, and the elevation they assumed above the ordi-
nary mountains, to be 6000 feet. In the interesting
^ account of the exploratory voyage of a late distin-
guished officer, Captain Clavering, published in the
ninth volume of the New Edinburgh Philosophical
Journal, it is stated, that on the coast to the north-
ward of the part surveyed by Scoresby,— that,
namely, examined by Captain Clavering,— the moun-
tains are from 3000 to 4000 feet high. Scoresby's
survey extended particularly from Cape Barclay and
Knighton Bay, m about north latitude 69°, to Cape
Pairy in about north latitude 72° 30' ; that of Cap
tain Clavering from Cape Parry to an island ujider
north latitude 76° : the coast downwards to Staaten
Hook and Cape Farewell to about north latitude 59°
30*, is m part described by Crantz, but much of it is
entirely unknown.

The tract examined by Scoresby appe- rs to be
principally of primitive rock. Secondary rocks also
occur, but the transition are the least frequent. On
the beaches, and at the head of friths, alluvial depo-
sites were noticed.

Tlic primitive rocks noticed were, granite, gneiss,
mica-slate, hcriiblende-slate, syenite, and clay-slate.
These rocks exiiibit in that remote region the same
varieties of structure as those on the west coast of
Greenland, and these again do not differ from the
puiuitive rocks of Uiiiain and otJier countries ; thus

aav.

, who sailed to the top

rhis iron-bound coast
lous ; and even in the
but few animals or
the monotonous and
levation of the coast
ountains measured by
ast were found to be
;ajn8 in Davy Sound
e at which they were
sumed above the ordi-
t. In the interesting
yrage of a late distin-
ing, published in the
iburgh Philosophical
B coast to the north-
by Scoresby,— that,
ilavering,— the moun-
et high. Scoresby's
om Cape Barclay and
latitude 69°, to Cape
72° 30'; that of Cap
f to an island under
>wnwards to Staaten
Jut north latitude 59°
itz, but much of it is

resby appe'TS to be

Secondary rocks also

E least frequent. On

friths, alluvial depo-

vere, granite, gneiss,
jnite, and clay-slate,
lote region the same
»u the west coast of
not differ from the
tJier countries ; thus

EAST COAST OF OREENIAND.

363

ttflbrdinpr another proof of the uniformity of charac-
ter, similarity of position, and universality of distri-
bution of primitive rocks in all parts of the world.
Judging from what is known of the imbedded mine-
rals on the west coast of East Greenland, and reflect,
ing on the agreement of the rocks, both on the east
and west sides of the country, we may infer, that if
Scoresby had had leisure for more minute investi-
gation, his scientific zeal would have been rewarded
by the discovery of the hitherto rare cryolite, the
sodalite, and allanite, with magnificent tourmalines
and garnets, interesting varieties of zircon, splendid
specimens of hyperstene, the remarkable dichroite,
and with all the species of the felspar genue. There
does not appear any reason why the ores of iron,
lead, tin, and copper of the v/est coast should not
also occur in the same rocks upon the east ; and the
fine displays of apatate, calcareous spar, Jluor spar,
and of other simple minerals on the west coast, which
have been a source of so much instruction and de-
.ightful contemplation to the scientific observer, may
ill some future voyage present themselves in the
newly-discovered countries to the eye and the intelli-
gence of the naturalist. The sj»ecimens of transition
clay-slate picked up by Scoresby, prove the existence
of rocks of that class in Greenland, and thus add a
new feature to its geognosy ; for Giesecke does not
enumerate any of the slates he met with as belonging
to the transition class. This fact is also a farther
proof of the wide distribution of these rocks ; and
shows, in opposition to certain speculative views, that
they are not confined to a few narrow comers of the
globe, but, like granite, gneiss, &c., may be consi-
dered as occurring in most extensive tracts of coun-
try, and that, therefore, the series is to be associated
with the imiversal formations. We do not know-
any other examples of transition rocks having been
found in so high a latitude. Tlie secondary rocks
met with are referable to two formations, one aque

j.

-ARCTIC OEOLOOV.

Sn^ " '^ PO'-Myry *«"«. This coal-formation
for fhp fi "t ?"" °" ^i" '^''«* ''°^'' a»d was met with
.«m« f '^^ V"*^ '" Greenland by Scoresby. It is the
ET„h,S^^- °\^' ^^^'- ^^'''^ abounds all around
wK 5 '■*" short. It 18 that important deposite in

E5SnJX"lw "^ Z'^" ^^"' coal-mines i^ Scot"
land and England. It was met with only in Jame.
sm s Land yvhere it forms the principal de^site, and

fffordiia i'ntr""''^ ■'? peculiar characters s'tS
affording wiother example of the connexion of the

fT^h?^ P""""^""^ '■T'"^ °f ^''« surface of a coin!
T^iltr^l^^^^T^''^^ ^^^'^^^^ and composition.
S,t« S^fnT ^^'^y.' •=°"'^">« impressions and
casts of plants which have a tropical aspect,-a cir-
cumstance of high interest, when combined with ?he
Arctic situation of the coal. The coal-formation ij
Melville Island, m north latitude 75°, where the sum

s^e^Li'^of ':."ri." ^'^ '"'?'"'' ' '■«»nd,'orexa4inin7a
series of specimens, to contain various tropical.

coai-neios of Bntam; and as the same formation
occurs m Jameson's Land, in north latitude™!* h
8 very probable that future naturalists vdU detect,
m its stra a, plants of a simUar nature. RemSns of
plants with tropical characters, evidently ™ their
native place of growth, under the 75° north latitude
18 a fact which naturaUy leads to very intSeS

l^"'fr? '" '^^^ *° »he ancientTorrI of K
land, the former state of the climate, and com^
quently to the early condition of the Mhn^^d
vegetable kingdoms of Arctic lands. TheS for
mation of Jameson's Land, at mUN fvlm ^^hf^tl
a splendid display of secondar^ ^iLuC'as i s^

rVt ""^A *" '^^ "•'^^1« division of Scm'and.
rhe secondary trap-rocks,— all of which arp m/»r.
or lessof an igneous ^in. ^nd the coSemTioTof

.OOY.

Plutonic or ii^ieons
to the^r#< secondare
he other to the tecmi-

This coal-formation
»8t, and was met with
ty Scoresby. It is the
!i abounds all around
important deposite in
It coal-mines in Scot-
et with only in Jame-
)rincipal deposite, and
Jliar characters ; thus
the connexion of the
the surface of a coun-
ure and composition,
ins impressions and
opical aspect,— a cir-
m combined with the
'he coal-formation in
3 76°, where the sum-
und, on examining a
lin various tropical-
those met with m the
the same formation
lorth latitude 71°, it
turalists will detect,
lature. Remains of
. evidently in their
e 75° north latitude,
to very interesting
ticient fori\8 of the
;limate, and conse-

of the animal and
nds. The coal-for-
^eiWi aiffs, exhibits
trap-cliffs, as is so
iion of Scotland.
1 of which are more
he consideration of

WEST COAST OF OREKNLAND.

305

which is so importantly connected with the position
of the neighbouring strata, the form of the surface,
and the elevation of that surface above the waters
of the ocean, — occur at Traill Island, forming, ap-
parently, nearly its whole mass. These rockg arc
principally greenstone, and claystone, and felspar
porphyries.

Neither Captain Clavering, nor Captain Sabine,
who accompanied him, appear to have bestowed
any attention on the geology of the country sur-
veyed from Cape Parry to north latitude 76°, the
most northern land of Greenland seen by Clavering,
as all we obtain from their reports is simply, that
the land was mountainous, from 3000 to 4000 feet
high, and principally composed of trap-rocks.

Wat Coast of Greenland. — The west coast of this
forlorn region is equally mountainous, rugged, and
desolate as the east. The country, even when but
inconsiderably elevated above the sea, is covered
with snow, or encased in ice. In the warm season
of the year, rivers appear, but few in number and of
inconsiderable size, which are supplied by the melting
of the snow and ice. The same also is the case
with the lakes, which in some parts are of considera-
ble size. Springs then also burst forth, but in winter
the greater number cease. Giesecke mentions a
tidal spring, which rises and falls with the tide ; and
a hot ^ring, which neither cold nor storm interrupts,
flows all the year round with a tumperature of 104°
of Fahrenheit. This hot spring occurs in the south-
east of the coast, in the island of Ounartok, in north
latitude 60°, and is highly interesting, as showing
that that igneous agency, which was formerly exerted
so extensively in this country, is still at work beneath
the surface.*

The large islands that skirt this coast, of which

* Tho oiperimems of Cordler, detailed in the New Edinburgh
Fhiloaophical Juurnol, with tlic numerous dctaiiti in regard to itie tem-
pemliirc of sprinsa and niincB, i;o to Hupiwrt tho idea, urn of a central
heat, btit of a Hource of heat independent of that dcrwed from the suit,
■lluated to tlu erunl nf l/ie earth.

H h 2

■MWiiMa

9M

ARCTIC OXOLOOV.

the most consideiable is Disco, are, like the conti-
nent, composed of barren rocliB,andof valleys filled
with eternal ice; while the smaller islands are
formed of roundish elevations and hills, the bases of
which are inhabited by numberless sea-fowl.

The httle we know of the geology has been ob.
tamed by examining the seacoast, or tracts removed
but a short distance from it,— the interior and higher
parts of the country being inaccessible, owing to the
deep and constant cover of ice and snow.

Four classes of rocks occur, viz. primitive, se-
condary, tertiary, and alluvial. The primitive Nep.
tuman rocks are, some granites, gneiss, mica-slute,
white-stone, clay-slate, ffreen-stone, and limestone;
the pnvfuttve igneous rocks, are granite and porphyry.
These rocks exhibit the usual relations, the gneiss
appearing as the under or fundamental rock, sup-
Pprtmg the white-stone, mica-slate, and clay-slate,
with their limestones and greenstones ; while certain
granites, syenite, and porphyry, rise through the older
or Neptunian rocks. In these rocks various beauti-
ful and curious simple minerals occur, namely,
cryohte, allanite, sodalite, thulite; also numerous
precious garnets, rock-cryUal, rose-quartz, dichroite,
hypersteru, apatite or phosphate of lime, zircotUluor-
spar, calc-spar, gold-like mica, magnetic iron ore,
gadolontte, tm-stone, xeolfram, arsenical and iron-
pyntes, galena or leadglance, titanium, &c. &c.
Indurated talc and pot-stone are also met with. Of
these lamjw and kettles are made. Utensils made
of these minerals are carried to some districts where
tiiey are not found, and are bartered for provisions,
fKrs, &c. The Greenlanders, says Crantz, sometimes

8ive them as presents to persons of distinction in
enmark, where »hey are highly valued, as it is
thought that articles of food prepared in them are
more delicate than when done in metallic vessels. It
may here also be noticed, that the gold-like variety of
mica was at one time taken for gold j and it is stated

1'!

LOOY.

tea, are, like the conti*
ks, and of valleys filled
3 smaller islands are
9 and hills, the bases of
irless sea-fowl.
geology has been ob-
oast, or tracts removed
-the interior and higher
iccessible, owing to the
e and snow.
3ur, viz. primitive, se-
!. The primitive Ntp'
tes, gneiss, mica-slate,
-stone, aiid limestone;
3 granite and porphyry,
al relations, the gneiss
mdamental rock, sup-
i-slate, and clay-slate,
nstones; while certain
U rise through the older
3 rocks various beauti-
erals occur, namely,
«/«■<«/ also numerous
roit-(iuart2, dichroite,
i of lime, zircon,Jluor'
■a, magnetic iron ore,
, arsenical and tVon-
:e, titanium, &c. &c.
re also met with. Of
made. Utensils made
0 some districts where
artered for provisions,
ays Crantz, sometimes
rsons of distinction in
ighly valued, as it is
prepared in them are
n metallic vessels. It
he gold-like variety of
'gold: and it is stated

barrow's strait AKD MELVILLE ISLAND. 367

by Egede, that its appearance was so seducing, that
two successive expeditions were sent from Denmark
in the early part of the 17th century, in 1636, for car-
goes of it, in the expectation of finding gold. Not
discouraged by the first failure, a second ship was
laden with it, which, after the most cnreful analysis,
was found worthless.

The secondary and tertiary rocks, at present known
to occur in this coast, are secondary or tertiary traps.
or both, with slate-clay, limestone containing fishes,
and limestone containing imbedded amber. These
limestones and slate contain, or are associated with,
beda of brown coal or lignite ; in some kinds of brown
coal amber also occurs. These newer trap-rocks,
the amygdaloidal, varieties of which contain agate,
jasper, calcedony, and green earth, have been traced
from north latitude 69° W to the top of Baffin's Bay,
the furthest northern point reached by Captain Ross.*
A splendid display of these rocks is presented in the
large island named Disco, which is entirely formed of
them. The alluvial depositions, which are of sand,
gravel, clay, and rolled masses, occur on the seashore,
or on the sides of the fiords ; but they are not men-
tioned as appearing any where in great quantity.
Peat, which is to be considered an alluvial formation,
is met with in fenny places, interspersed with roots,
branches, decayed wood, and withered grass. Much
of the peat contains sea-shells, from which it is sus-
pected that the sea washed over it at some distant
period. No wood grows, but dri/l-ZDOod is frequently
obtained on the sea-coasts, particularly in the south-
ern and western parts.

4. Barrow's Strait, Melville Island, Port Bawen. —
All that is known of the geology of these Arctic
lands we owe to the Parry expeditions in 1819 and
SO, and m 1631-2-3.

The east side of ratlin's Bay, or west coast of

* CoMiderahle mnaiai of v.-ft ■ ij iron weie <bund by Capt. Hca, al
fcwolilck Pulut, in north latltu(>> ?oo 2*

1

368

ARCTIC OCOLOOT.

Greenland, aa already mentioned, is composed prin-
cipally of primitive and secondary rocks; on the
west side of Baffin's Day to the entrance of Lan-
caster s Sound, the predominating rocks were found
to be primitive, viz. gneiss, mica-slate, and granite,
in the latitude of the entrance of Lancaster's Sound,
in Possession Bay, the rocks are granite, syenite,
hornblende-rock, with disseminated precious gameta,
and rocks of new red sandstone, with fibrous and
granular gypsum. The north coast of Barrow's
Strait, as far westward as the Polar Sea, is said to
consist of limestone resembling mountain limestone.
Both sides of Prmce Regent's Inlet are formed of a
compact limestone, which contains fibrous brown
iron ore and a kind of brown coal. Its colours are
ash-gray, yellowish-gray, and yellowish-brown. It
affords about 80 per cent, of carbonate of mague-
ma, and is, therefore, a magnesian limestoneT It
contains imbedded masses of chert-quartz. The
organic remains found in it were entrochttet, catinu-
tana, meropore, turbinolia, favositet, several species
01 <er«6ra{ttte. a trochus, a turriteUa, and an orthoce-
ratUe. This has been called Port Bimm limestone :
its age has not been determined. Resting upon it
there are thick beds of gypsum, containing selenitic,
fibrous, and foliated varieties, which are connected
with a slaty limestone, which is newer than the Port
Bowen limestone. Byam Martin's Island appears to
be composed of granite and red-coloured quartz-
rock. A fossil dicotyledonous tree was found on the
shore of this island. MelvUle Island is the most
western pomt ever navigated in the Polar sea from
the eastern entrance. 1» iies in north latitude 74°
96 , and west longitude 1 13" 46'. Its length is one
hundred and thirty-five miles from east-north-east to
south-south-west; its breadth forty or fifty miles.
Granite, gneiss and syenite, were found in the vicinity
of Winter Harbour, but the principal formations in
the island, as far as the specimens brought allowed

HMMk~»<.

«

OV.

d, is composed pr!n<
idary rocks; on the
le entrance of Lan-
ng rocks were found
a-alate, and granite.
r Lancaster's Sound,
iro granite, syenite,
ted precious garneta,

e, with fibrous and
coast of Barrow's

Polar Sea, is said to
mountain limestone,
ilet are formed of a
ains fibrous brown
al. Its colours are
ellowish-brown. It
irbonate of mague-
siau limestone. It
chert-quartz. The
3 entrochttet, catinu-
itet, several species
lla, and an orOioce-
rt Bowm limestone ;
3. Resting upon it
ontaining selenitic,
hich are connected
lewer than the Port
I's Island appears to
id-coloured quartz-
ee was found on the
[sland is the most
the Polar sea from
I north latitude 74"*
Its length is one
fi east-north-east to
»rty or fifty miles,
ound in the vicinity
;ipal formations in
s brought allowed

mtVILLK PRNINSVIA.

800

ns to infer, appear to be transition glance coal, and the
firit, or oldest secondary coal-formations. The rocks
of these formations observed there were the follow-
ing:— 1. White quartz-rock, sometimes micaceous,
containing impressions of trilobites, belonging to the
genus asaphus. Sandstone containing trocni, or joints
of the stem of the encrinns, but the most frequent
fossils in the sandstone were vegetable casts and im-
pressions of species in some measure characteristic
of the coal-sandstone, particularly arborescent /ems,
resembling those which at present occur only m the
tropical regions of the earth. Slate-clay and clay-
ironstone were also found associated with the coal-
sandstono ; one specimen of ironstone was found to
contain a fossil autc«/a, named by K6nig, Melvilliana,
in honour of Lord Melville. The secondary coal is
more or less of a slaty structure : its colour is of a
brownish black. It emits no unpleasant smell when
burning, and leaves copious grayish-white coloured
ashes. It is quite a different coal from the brown
coal of Disco, which contains amber. It would ap-
pear that the trilobite, or glance coal, is connected
■with quartz-rock, while the secondary coal rests
upon a limestone resembling the mountam limestone,
containing bivalve shells and corallines, a species of
terebratula, and the Favosttes Goihlandicus. These
deposites appear to be traversed by whin dykes or
trap-veins.

6. Islands and Countries bordering on Hvdson's
Bay examined and partly discovered by Captain
Parry. — The lands bordenng on Hudson's Bay, and
the islands mentioned by Captain Parry, viz. Melville
Peninsula, Vansittart Island, Baffin Island, Winter
Island, Cockbum Island, Southampton Island, &c.,
are not very much elevated above the level of the
sea, — the average height is 800 feet, and the highest
summits not exceeding 1500 feet. The valleys are
narrow and rugged, and the cliffs sometimes display
mural precipices of more than one hundred feet high.

970 - ARCTIC OXOLOOT.

Tlio country is covered with ice and unow the (neater
part of the year, often exhibitin)? the moHt Npleudid
colours mid iridescences, and forms of tlie most pic-
turesque description. The upper soil varies from a
few inches to a foot in depth, beneath which tho
pound is frozen solid throughout the whole year.
The rocks of which this country is composed vary
ill their nature ; in some places primitive rocks pre-
dominatinij, in others thoes of the transition, or ol
tho secondary classes ; no tertiary rocks were met
with, nor formations eitlicr of tho ancient or modern
volcanic periods. Tlie primitive rocks enumerated
and descriiied are tho tollowing -.—(Jranile, gneiss,
mica slate, clay Hlate, chlorite slate, primitive trap,
serpentine, limestone, and porphyry. In these rocks
several interesting minerals occur, as the gems named
zircon and beryl, also precious eamet, aaynoliie, tre-
tnolile, diallage, coccolite, rock crystal, cale .^par,
rhomb ipar, asbestot, graphite or black-lead, specular
. ^ ore, magnetic iron ore, chrome ore, or chromate
of iron, titanitic iron, common and magnetic iron py-
rites. The transition rocks are quartz-rock, old red
sandstone, or red graywacke, common graywacke,
and flinty slate. In them the following minerals
were found ; viz. felspar, mica, chlorite, pale rose
ifuartz, epidote, rock crystal, short, molybdena, iron
glance, magnetic iron ore, copper pyrites, and iron
pyrites.

Of the secondary rocks, the only kinds met with
were limestone, bituminous shale, and greenstone.
No fossil organic remains were detected in any of tho
rocks of this series but the limestone, which afforded
two genera of corals, viz. caryophyllea and astrea;
one crustaceous annual of the tn7o»tte genus ; a^wo-
ductus, a terebratula, and species of the genera nau-
tilus, trochus, and orthocoiras. No extensive de-
posites of alluvial matters were met with. The
most striking objects are the rolled masses or boul-
dors, spread over some of the islands. Some islands,

.oar.

e and anow the )n«atCT
in)7 Uio moHt Hpleiulid
Forms of the most pic-
jper soil viirieH fioin a
1, l)eiieiith which the
ihout the wholo year,
iitry is composed vary
68 primitive rocks pre-
f the traiiHition, or oi
rtiary rocits were met
the ancient or modem
ivo rocks enumerated
ing: — (iranite, gneiss,
3 slate, primitive trap,
)hyry. In these rocks
Mr, as the gems named

gamet, aaynoliit, tre-
ck cryitalf cole .^par,
or black-lead, specular
\roine ore, or chrmnate
and magnetic iron py-
re quartz-rock, old red

common graywacke,
le following minerals
ca, chlorite, pale rota
ahorl, molybdena, iron
pper pyrites, and iron

; only kinds met with
ihale, and greenstone.
I detected in any of the
lestone, which afforded
yophyllea and astrea;
triloiite germs; upro-
ies of the genera nau-
I. No extensive de-
were met with. The
oiled masses or boul-
slands. Some islands,

ARCTIO OIOIOOT.

sri

entirely composed of limestone, wore stratred OTer
with boulders, often of enormous size, of gnein,
granite, and quarts, although no hillaof these focks
were witliin some hundred miles.

COROLVPIKe MMABXS.

The observations made in Cherie Island, Jan May-
en's Island, Spitsbergen, Old Greenland, and the
various lands and islands first explored during the
four Arctic expeditions, viz. that imder Captain RosSi
and the three under Captain Parry, afford the foU
lowing general facts and inferences :—

1. That these miserable and almost uninhabited
regions abound in primitive and transition rocks, and
that although secondary rocks occupy considerable
tracts, still as far as is known at present, their extent
is more limited than that of the older formations ;
that the alluvial deposites are not extensive ; that
true modem volcanic rocks occur only in Jan May-
en*s Island; and that the only tmces of tertiary
strata were found in tho sandston^'^, and clays, and
limestones connected with the new trap-rocks in
Baffin's Day.

8. That the Neptunian, primitive, and transition
rocks, now forminia; islands of various magnitudes,
were in all probabihty at one time connected together,
and formed a more continuous mass of land than at
present ; and that on these formations were depo-
sited the secondary limestones, sandstones, gypsum,
and coal, and upon these again the tertiary rocKs, and
the still newer shtU-clay of Spitzbergen : That these
various kinds of primary, transition, secondary, and
tertiary rocks and alluvial clays were raised above
the lf>vel of the sea at different times, through the
agency of the igneous and volcanic rocks.

3. That in the course of time the land was broken
up,— either suddenly or bv degrees, or partly by sud-
den and violent actioni uhd partly by the long-con-

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IBllliJBMWii,

872

ARCTtC OEoioar.

tinued agency of the atmosphere and the ocean,—
into Its present insular form ; and that, consequently,
the secondary and tertiary formations were fonnerly
in these regions more extensively distributed than at
present.

4. That previously to the deposition of the coal
formation, as m Melville Island and in Jameson's
Land, the previously-existing, or older hills, supported
a vegetation resembling that wliich at present cha-
racterizes the tropical regions. The fossil corals in
the limestones, corals of which the prototypes are
at present met with in the hot seas of the tropical
regions, also intimate that, before, during, and after
the deposition of the coal-formation, the waters of
the Arctic ocean were so constituted as to support
polyparia, or corals, resembling those of the present
equatorial seas.

5. That probably the ancient climates of the Arc-
tic regions were connected in some degree with the
former magnitude and form of the Arctic lands, and
their relations to the magnitude and height of other
countries.

3. That the boulders or rolled blocks met with in
different quarters, and in tracts distant from their
original localities, afford evidence of the passage of
water across them, and at a period subsequent to the
deposition of the newest Neptunian strata.

7. That possibly the distribution of the erratic
blocks or boulders, was occasioned by the agitations
In the ocean, caused by the upraising of certain
lands.

8. That the black or common coal, the coal of the
old or most abundant coal-formation, which some
speculators maintain to be confined to the more tem-
perate and warmer regions of the earth, is now
proved,— by its discovery by Parry in Melville Island
far to the west, and by Scoresby far to the east in
Jameson's Land, to form an interesting feature in
the geognostical constitution of Arctic countries.

MM

HIWIWHW»'lll>.iWlaP.gn|i

.oar.

ere and the ocean,—
nd that, consequently,
aations were fonnerly
ely distributed than at

eposition of the coal
id and in Jameson's
r older hills, supported
liich at present cha-
The fossil corals in
shthe prototypes are
seas of the tropical
are, during, and after
lation, the waters of
tituted as to support
f those of the present

climates of the Arc-
ome degree with the
the Arctic lands, and
! and height of other

1 blocks met with in
s distant from their
ice of the passage of
iod subsequent to the
inian strata,
ution of the erratic
ned by the agitations
upraising of certain

coal, the coal of the
mation, which some
led to the more tem-
' the earth, is now
Tyin Melville Island
y far to the east in
iteiesting feature ia
Arctic countries.

AROTIO OEOLOOT.

373

9. TTiat the new red sandstone and gypsum found
in tracts allow us to infer that they contain rock-salt.

10. That although few new metalliferous speci-
mens have been found to gratify the curiosity cf the
mineralogist, yet the previous details show that valu-
able ores of iron, copper, lead, and tin, and also gra-
phite, or black-lead, are met with.

11. That the gems, the most valued and most
beautiful of mineral substances, are not wanting in
the Arctic regions, as is proved by the occurrence
there of precious garnets, beryls, zircons, dichroiteSi
and rock-crystals.

12. That the islands and lands described in the
sketch exhibit the same general geognostical ar-
rangements as occur in all other extensive tracts of
country hitherto examined by the naturalist, — a fact
which strengthens that opinion which maintains that
the grand features of nature, in the mineral king-
dom, are everywhere similar, and, consequently, that
the same general agencies must have prevailed
during the formation of the different groups of rocks
of which the earth is composed.

iiu ran.

.^

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