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1

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1

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5

6

T

NC

It

A cii

CIV
The M

Prpfeffo

Bv J

^nrich'

Prin

TRAVELS

INTO

NORTH AMERICA}

CONTAINING

Its Natural History, and

A circumftantial Account of its Plantations

and Agriculture in general,

WITH THE

CIVJL, ECCLESIASTICAL AND COMMERClAl-
STATE OF THE COUNTRY,

The MANKBRs of the inhabitant!, and feveral curiom and
IMPORTANT REMARKS on vanous fubjefts.

By PETER KALM,

Profeflbr of Oeconomy in the Univerfity of Aobo in Swedidi Pialand,
and Member of the S/wedi/k Royal Academy of Sciences.

TRANSLATED INTO ENGLISH

By JOHN REINHOLD FORSTER, F. A. S.

Enriched with a Map. fevcral Cots for the Illaftration of Natural
Hiftory, and fome additional Notes.

THE SECOND EDITION.

IN TWO VOLUMES,

VOL. n.

LONDON,

Printed for T. Lc w n d e s, N** 77, in Flcct-ftfcet. 1772.

im

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4 i ,. J !i

VI

I

E

ICOUL
face,
which I ;
The a
is a Swedt
pecuh'ar v
in genera]
and inhab
French y \\
for up war
Swedes, v
of them tl
nefs of th(
author, pi
nated his r
lijh, I hav
been oHJig
when I lav
judice or n
the winfer,
and conver
he came tc
company o
doubt, furr
genuous ace
that unfavo

P R E F A C

E

E D

OF THE

T

O R.

I

Could have left this vohmie without pre-
face, was It not for fome circumftances
wiiich 1 am going to mention.
^ The author of this account of North- America
IS a ;:iwede, and therefore fcems always to fhew a
pecuhar way of thinking in regard to th^ En^Hflj
in general, and in regard to the firft proprietors
and ^habitants o^ Philadelphia in particular. The
French, the natural enemies of the Englijh, have,
for upwards of a century, been the allies of the
Swedes, who therefore are in general more fond
of them than of the E?iglipj, The external polite-
nefs of the French m Canada fully captivated our
author, prejudiced him in theirfavour, and alie-
nated his mind, though unjuftly, from the Eng;.
Itfh. I have therefore now and then, in remarks
been ohhged to do the £,7^4/7, juftice, efpecially
when I law the author carried away either by pre-
judice or mifinformation. He pa^ed almort all
thewjnrer, between 74S and 1749, at /?^rr^^///
and converfed there with his countrymen^ when
he came to Philadelpi:.:: he likewi/b was in the
company of the Swedes fettled there; thefe, no
doubt, furnifhed him with many partial and difin-

genuousaccountsoftheE;?^7^),andgave his mind
that unfavourable biafs which I ; fo often difplays

4 in

I ' "n

■d'l

iv

PREFACE.

n

in prejudice of a nation^ now at the head of th^
enlightened world, in rc;;.ird to every religious,
moral, and focial viit.ie. The author frequently
feems to throw an i' liberal reflet^tion on the firft
proprietors o{ Penfylvarila, and the quakers ; tho'
they eot that province not by force, bpt by a char-
ter from t;ie EngliJIo government, to whom the
Swede: gave it up by virtue of a public treaty.
Proir^'ted by fuch falfc infinuations of his coun-
tryipcn, he likewife enters very minutely into ihc
circumftances of the Swedes, and often omits
more important points, relative to the legiflaior
and father of Fenjyhanla, William Fenn, who
gave that province exigence, laws, and reputation.
The author, however, often does juftice to the
excellent conftitution of Fenfyhaniay as may be
feen in Vol. I. But when he fpeaks o^ Jiones at--
tracing the moijiure of the air, fee Vol. I. this is
fomewhat unphilofophically expreffed. No ftonc
attrads the moifture of the air, unlcfs impregnat-
ed with faline particles; however, when the Uone?
are colder than the atrnofpherc, they then ton-
denfe the moifture of the airpn their furface : the
porous ftones abforb it immediately, but thofe of
a more folid texture, as marbles, ^c. keep it on
their furface till it evaporates.

I HERE take the opportunity of returning my
humble thanks to my friends, who have gene-
roully prpmoted this publication; as without this
public manner of acknowledging their favours, \
would think myfelf guilty of ingratitude, which,
in my opinion, is one of the moft deteftablc
vices.

Fth. the i^th> 1771,

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• Vol

PETER K A L M'

TRAVELS.

4"-'>'the 1 2th. 1745.

know Jh!hTrZt""'' '" °"^'^ '°

lately rpfu^suoh "^T """^^P'ants

/V-^ >^^ in genera 1^ "P; '^an at Raccoon, and i„

roads very bad irt /ow and clayX 'pj^,'"''^' '^'

As .his fee^t^'hi de'Th tZ°^ '^1 '"^'^-
»t was cuftomary to burn ft ^7. °/ ''"= S^^''^'
"d of that month f. V" ^'"''^'' °' =« th=
in order ro gfvc the rT,f'V° '^' "^'^ -'''■'=)

to-day J but if it be ufJ,,! *"'* ""anner

great deal of damat! f" /"' ?"" ""'y- " does a
il>oots offcvera™ fes Lr°^''" '" "'^ ^""''S
leaves, which di n „ rhT.b "' '"]"' "^^ <'«d
"•''y; and in fuch nW u* '^°°''' confider-
had been bu„ tr Waf ''' "'^ ''"'^ '"^«
old trees were ol £^'1^^ ■'°^''^"' '^^
there remaiusaotllrb„r '"'."^ ""' ''°^V".
Voi:. ir '"» ''-"' " great field, withont

any

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^ April 1749-

,.y.oo.,. At .he fame ti.. aU ro.s of ^
and plants .,re conlumed by the fire, o
deprived of the.r power of b"Jd.n . a S

-""^^7i.CerrV:l"?:i'bectntlea..s,
!Ii"r;h;t'ta.?areburnt:. his is another

r^^"\r;:.in;rnlt:;dftif;t:ar;^r-

^'"T f'reat number of dry and hollow trees

'"rb^^nt' tl e (^« time, though .hey could

• ve s ewe in the houfes. and by that means

"re D 'tof the forelb. The upper mould

^'vifc burns away in part by that means, no^

\TZ birg'f the dead leaves is at-
wh<ch 'b'l.J'"^'^^' S ^j^^ government of

'r r /".^/.ha e ately publiflied an edift. which
^'f<T h s burnS • never.helefs every on=
Slfa's he iJelfSanS this prohibition met w.h

"" ^™r werr;aft numbers of V/ocdlkeJ. the

St?£.|Srona.Lvvhic.^

rc\S ^u^riifair S i.;ret^.ably come

"^rHtatet'o'ft trifled wood given me to-
aI ^hiclfwas found deep in the ground at
S J: In this wood the fibres an mw.d

'■'"^^ Tvcl;- 'L^ It - .: lEt,' in.every
5:a'r.tUhadbutjuabeencut»roma

hiccoryuee. IliKE-

Indian
I ihiU
Sequel
as are
diggin
this ki
the fe;

Raccoo.

the riv

the nes

At

Ap.

obferva:

Twc

tree^ ov

fame wj

eeeded t

in diarr

above c

was the

creafed i

wafps \\

cake wa^

that. of t

quarters.

young on

the coloi

the wafpi

fph'nts, u

dark bro\

biack rin^

rM,

l^eio Jerfey, Raccoon. »

I r.iKEWisE got fome (hells to-day, whfh ih^
^y/y?. commonly call Clam, and whir of he
/W.«,. make their ornaments and money. „^S

ict|uei. iiieie Clams were not frefh h.,f r k
- are every where found in Nefj^^aJ'''-^^
d'gg.ng deep into the ground ; the live flSlc 'f
h.skind are only found in f.lt water S „"
fc. ""f'- ?"' «hefeC/.«. were found a"
fe; LJ' ''^"'' ""'-^'^.^/^^ miles /rem
.he nTare^f^tX;. "' ""- ^-n^i-d f-.
At night I went to Mr. Bartram's feat.
yip. 13th. I EMPLOYED this day in feveril
obfervations relative to botnny. ^

Two nefts of wafps hune in t h.VIi „,, i
upp (mio,. » u I '™,. . 5 '" " "'fill maple-
tree, m er a brook. Their form was whollv' the
fame w.th that of ot:r wafp-ncfts, bu h '^ 1'
cceded them in fize. Each neft ^as terjnchel
n diameter, in each neft were th ee c"ke
above one another, of which the Jowermoft
was the b.ggeft. and the two uppemoft de-
creafed m proportion : there were fom^L of
wafps ,n them. The diameter of the foweft
cake bout fix inches and one quarL." I J

quarters. The cells in which the eef= or ih,
young ones w^re depofited. were hexf^onal and
he colour of the neft grey. I was lold th^t
the wafps make this kind^ofnefis out of h; , r<^v
fpl.nts. which ftick to old pales and vvall'" A
dark brown bee, wi,h h\A anrnj^i ,^^o
Wack r.ngs on the belly, and purple ^ings. flew

^ ^ about

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4 Jpnl 1749-

about the trees, and might perhaps be an inha-
bitant oF thefe nells.

Another kind of wafps, which are larger
than thciV, make their nefts quite open. It
confifh merely of one cake, which has^no co-
ve^ilu^ and is made of the boughs of trets.
The cells are horizontal, and when the eggs or
voun- hirv^ ly in them, they have hds or co-
verings, that the rain may not come mto them.
But whither the old wafps retreat during ftorms,
is a myttery to me, except they creep into
the crevices of rocks. That fide of the cake
which is uppermoft is covered with fome o.ly
particles, fo that the rain cannot penetrate. 1 ne
cells are hexagonal, from five to fevcn lines
deep, and two lines in diameter. Mr. Barlram
obferved, that thefe nefts are built of two forts
of materials, viz. the fplints which are found
upon old pales, or fences, and which the w-md
feparates from them ; for the wafps have often
been obferved to fit on fuch old wood, and tognaw
awav thefe fplints ; the fides, and the lid or cover
of the cells are made of an animal fubflaiice, or
Plutmous matter, thrown up by the wafps, or
prepared in their mouths; for when this fub-
llance is thrown into the fire, it does not^ burn,
but is only finged, like hair or horn. But the
bottom of the neft being put into the fire, burns
like linen or half-rotten wood, and leaves a imell
of burnt wood. The wafps whofe nefts I have
now defcribed, have three elevated black fliin.
ing points on the forehead*, and a pentagonal

* Thefe three points are common to mnft infeas and ought
ther Jorc noc to be made charaaenitics of any particular fpc^J^.

blac]
autui
moui
In fp
come
'light
in fp

cavitii

other

under

Gv

iiumbc
yip,

Chejicr
mills ;

more t
the wo
\tvy n
when tJ
works,
cafe th(
conveiiii

coon. , 1

lows, VIZ

under gr

The i

thofe wii

Hirundo

of North

They are cal
1^1 lefts for Io(
cbjefts near a

^ewjerfey. Raccoon.
Wack fpot on the thorav t„ j ,

mountains, where th J I? , "4 .."'■"" "^
Infpring. when tb fu'n LS'.o o""'^^ "■'■7^'''-
come out 'Juringday-,imc LnVr?^""' '''^^
f'ighf, when it grows c"d I f , '""''"''
'" Spring during runftine 'in a'r u'"' """'>
cav,ties in the Luntains.' w's LlTor"'"'

more than one faw I lit r ^ ^"^ "°

•he woods and foTefts of the/ '^"T"^ "'"

convenient for building upon. " " '^ "°'

^- 16th. This mornino- r rffn..n^^ • r,
^ijii, country has fcveral kind<^ nf c. /
/ows, VIZ. fuch as live in barn« in i ^'''^''

' c xr . 'rir^^*^' i round them in all *k

of AW.^«..,,, .,,,, , traldled ot;''^^rey

Cbjefts ntar at hand, f . "^ ' ^^^ compound eye;, do for.

Bo r '

S correfnond

' . I

\vX

if April ly^g.

forrefpond very nearly to the European Hou/e-'
Sivaihw in regard to their colour, however, there
Iceins to be a fmall difference in the note. I
took no notice this year when they arrived : but
the following year, 1750, I obferved them for
the firll lime, on the loth of yJpn'/ {new ftyle);
the next day iji the morning, I faw great num-
bers of them fitting on polls and planks, and
they were as wet as if they had been juft come
out of the fea ^\ They build their nefls i^

! r.

e

f a

* It has been a fuhjefl of contcft amon;; naturaliRs, to determine
the winter retreat oi' S-wailo-u", So.iie think, they go to warmer
cllmaies when they difappCar in the Noithern countries : others fay,
they creep into hoHoxv trees, and holes in clefts of rocks, aid
ly there ail tiie winter in a torpid ll:jte : and others affirm, that
they take their Tetreat into water, and revive again in fpring. The
two firll opinions have been proved, and it Teems have found cre-
dit; the lail have been treated as ridicuiou', and ahnoft as an old
woman's tale. Natural hillory, as all the other hiitories, de-
pcr.ds not always upon the intrinfic degree of probability, but
upon fjfts founded on t!\ii telUniony of people of noted veracity.
'—Swallows are feldom feen finkinj,' down into the water ; Szval-
loivs have not fuch organs as froT;s or li;:ards, which are torpid
during winter, ergo. Swallows live not, and cannot live underwa-
ter.— rhis way of arguinp-, i believe, would carry us, in a great
many cafes, too far^for tho' it is not clear to everyone, it may
however be true; and lizards and frogs are animals of a clafs
widely difFere.it from that of birds, and muft therefore ofcourfe
have a different liruilnre; hence it is they are claffed feparately.
The bear and the marmot are in winter in a torpid ftate, and have
however not fuch orjjans as lizards and frogs ; and no body doubts
of their being, during forne time, in the mod rigid climates in a
torpid (late; for the Alpine nations hunt the marmots frequently,
by digging their holes up, and find them fo torpid, that they cut
their throats, without their reviving or giving the leaft fign of life
during the operation; but when the torpid marmot is brought into
a warm room and placed before the fire, it revjv?s from its lethargy.
The queftion mult therefore be decided by faili ; nor are they
wanting here ; Dr. M'allerius-, the celebrated SvjcJiJh chemifl,
wrote in 1748, September the 6th Q S. to the late Mr. Klein, fe-
cretarv to the city di Danix.ick : " Thai he has feen, more than once,
Stta/loius aficmblino on a reed, till they were all immerfed and went
to the bottom i this being preceded by a dirge of a quarter of aa

hour''

New Jerjey, Raccoon, y

Iioufcs and under the roofs on the outfide ; I
likewife found their nefts built on mountains

lirur's lenpth. He atteft, likewlfe. that he had fcen a Sw^llo^
cauolit dunng w.nter out of a lake with a net. drawn L iTcnm

icrews and engines, on account of their weiaht All M.- i

3..fl.o„cd made affiH.vic> „p„„ oa.h b' &:/ L „,a^ b « ''«!? °

«"atg1v r; ?vx''' '^-T t ^':'>-^?^- 'f ''^' — -

mnH^ro7»i . ^' /V/a«) which when brought into a

Count ST''"' '°''^'. 'r^^^'^ and fluttered about. ^ i,^/,*

liP t^r. "*^v • , . '^f Oay«//oiv/ caught in the net, one of which

The yea;?7.?Phe ^ot two '^ '"/^ ^^^^ P°"' ^^ ^''^'^^^^'' ' i«

tnot ^r °"^^" "P '" '^"^ "^^ f'-°'" ""der the ice, all which he
took ,n 0 a warm room, where he diilindly obfer^ed how thev
gradua My revived; but a few hours after thev all died Zn.u
.me hjs people got likewife fo.e WW^'nl^t but he'or
dered them again to be thrown into the water, r /./,, Z/r/,,
Rj^ta, a mafter fifhermao. at Olet/.o, made affidavit. 17 .T that
22 years ago. two f zW/.zc. were taken up, by him. n ate un
bo"t S.'t' being brought into a w?;m 'room 'theytw .
TiSLr'l t ^-""^ ^°/"^°' ^ "^'^^'- fi«^^rman, at Sira^aL, made
aihdavit hat in ,736. he brought up in winter, in a net from
under the ice of the lake at R.%i, a feemingly dead SJ/ JT
which revived in half an hour's' time, in a warm room! and he
fav a quarter nf an hour after, the bird grow weaker? anil foo„
nFrh;/l"^'j "^ h ^ ^'^^ '■^'^°" myfelf among the eye-witne/Tcs
of his /«r^^.^,„ of natural hiftory. In the yefr ,7,c beinp a
J^ttle boy, I faw feyeral ^../.W. brought in winter bfiifheTnfen!

^ + from

4^

(• !

r '■■■

(iHii

n*

■I'i^'f'

< i \

(

I m ■; ■ .

I

8

^/n/ 1749.

an4 rocks whofc top projcded bc7onJ the Hon
toi^ • ihcy build too under the corners of per-

from the river /'/>/./, fo my father's lioufi-, where twn of them
v/cjc brought intdii vrrhi room, revived, a.ul Hew about. I Uw
ihcm ft veial times lettiing on the vr,irm flnve. (which fhr A'o,/,'.
r« nations hate in their rcjoms) ^nd J rccolUa well that thi- fains
foreman -the f6U'<^, and I had thcin, when dead, in my h:ind.

It^ fht: yinr 17C4, aiter the'.a<'ath of my uncle G^-^/^/r^^; //W;
rapuin inthcpc^b regiment of foot-guarHs ; bcin^ myfelf one of
r.is Jie.r?, r jdminiRered for my co-heiri, fcvcral ertaes called th.»
.S/.,»-</?y, o( Dirftkan, in Po!,p Prnffia, which my Inte urcle farmed
under the kuig.^ Jr Jafunry the lake cf Ijhjbau, bcloppine to
there cftatef, being covc;cd with ice, I ordered the filheriuen to
iilh iherem, and m my prefcnce fevend Swall^v^i were taken ;
vvijich the fifht-rmen threw in ar^ain ; hut or.- I to(.k up myfclf
brou(jht u ho,n., which was fiv^ mii-.s from thence, and it rcviv'
ed, but dted i.bout an hour aft(3r it*, reviving. TJiefe are fath:
attdtc'd by people of tht :>igheil quality, by fome in public of.
iices, and by others, who, though of a low rank, however made
thefe afhcavus upon oath. It is impcffible to fuppofe indifcrimi-
ratcly that they were prompted by vi.vvs of intereft, to aflVrt as a

aa, a thing which had no truth in jt. It is therefore highly pro-
babie, or rather incor.tellably true-, that S^^ulhvj^ retire in the
t^oythern cmintries daring winter, into the water, and llav there in
a torpid ftate, tj!! the return of wrmth revives them 'again ih
pr.ng. fhe qiielbon therefore I believe ought for the future to
bethusftated: 1 he fwallows in Bpal., Italy, France, and per-
tiaps lome from E,)glaf,d, remove to warmer climates ; fome En^.
Jjjh onti andfT>me in GnmaKy and other mild countries, retire
into clefts and holes in rock^, a.d remain there in a torpid fiatc.
In the colder northern countries th4 ^uW/.tw immcrfe in the fea.
in lakes and rtvcrr. nnd remain in a torpid Hate, under ice, dur'

g winter, ff ere are Ail] fome ohj.aions to this latter afler-
ticn, which we mull remove. It is faid, Why do not rapacious
ftih, .nd sqM^t..c quadrupeds and birds, devour thefe S..vai:o<vjs!>
1 he anfwerrg obvious. ••6W//:^/chure only f^^^ places in the
waerforthDirwinter retreat, as are near /ceds a.!d rufl.es ; fo
hat finkmg down there between them and their roots, they are by

c"her.nhr.> w\""'* '^' rapacidufnefs of their enemies. But
c.hers ob,ra Why are not liiefe birds caught in fuch waters as

whiTh^r"" ^'''f'^ .^y "^^^ •' ^ ^^^'-^ ^J- fame anfw

vifl RJfl. ' ""'"^r '° '^^ ^'^ '^^J^^'°"' ^^"' ^'^'^ for this like.
^^ie hlherme.i take care to keep off with their nets from places

tinr I ""•^; r^ '"'*^"' ^'' ^''' of entangling and tearing

• n,U ' T V^' '^^"'^'"" ""^ Sv^alh^s under water, is th?

K..oa that ihcy are feldum di.hi-bed iu their filent winter-retreats.

\Mi4t

p.end
Swal
fcttlci
know
fcrvc

ditahl

ncHes
nea In
lualc *S
and W£
^he pc(

^ornetin

What cpn/

ver caught

Diit with th

f'h" ; an

feet to a re(

argument tj

fuption, I i

located \r\ xv

amples of t

may add the

Serves them'.

may be di/Ie

^ody, ifit ^

as a colleftio

nions. Natt

diver/jfied the

it to the var

thought nece/

'iiou* great h:

Colliu/on and i

improbability

aftes of the or

tome; but a

"pinion J and(

^^'ith candour

^^/eipea anc

cafe. F.

pendictilar rocks : anrf ,(,- /i.

[-.led and l.uilt ouilf ht?";■^^''.'•^^■''-
^^own that the huts of til r J " '^ ^•'••il
f-rvc the purpofc of thl V /t'^""'' ^''"''^ ""t
dit.blc lady and'hcr chif/ '^Jr- ^ ^^')' "<^-

"^'J" to ;t. A loTJ'f c^""''^ «K-wit.

''nd was about to bfood them V "^ ''P' '" "'
fh«= people raw the femlfti. 7' ''"^^ ^f'^r.
^ggs : hut the male flvW .1 ''1""^ P" 'he

Sometimes fettling c„T„fi,°"' J.^' "'^' "^'^

e "1 a naiJ, wa$ heard to utter

What cq„/!rmi tliis opinion (i;il „. . .

i-""" ' and fonjetimes the a\w/ '^ "*° '^^^^ to the reeds ani
[eet to a reed, when they UrTfc '''''\y^' ^^^'^"^d Jhh th^^J

;"»/ add ,he minkdlilfVc"" ""?" ""» • » which wl

a very

li

|:1

fii

« I

10

April 1749.

n>s

a very plaintive note, which betrayed his unea»
iincfs : on a nearer examination the caufe ap-
peared ; for the female was found dead in the
neft. The mde then went to fit upon the eggs,
but after being about two hours on them, and
thinking the bufinefs too troublefome for him,
he went out, and returned in the afternoon with
another female, which fat upon the eggs, and
jafterwards fed the young ones, till they were
lible to provide for themfelves, The people dif-
fered here in their opinions about the abode of
Swallows in winter : mofl of the Swedes thought
that they lay at the bottom of the fea ; fome,
with the Englijh and the French in Canada^
thought that they migrate to the fouthward in
autumn, and return in fpring. 1 have likewife
been credibly informed in Albany, that they have
been found deeping in deep holes and clefts of
rocks, during winter.

The Chimney Swallows are the fecond fpe-f

cies, and they derive their name from building

their nefts in chimneys, which are not made

ufe of in fummer : fometimes when the fire is

not very great, they do not mind the fmoke, and

remain in the chimney. I did not fee them this

year till late in May, bat in the enfuing year,

J 750, they arrived on the 3d of May, for they

appear much later than the other Swallows. It

is femarkable that each feather in their tail ends

in a ftifF fharp point, like the end of an awl -,

they apply the tail to the fide of the wall in the

chimneys, hold themfelves with their feet, and

the fViff tail ferves to keen them ud : thev make

a great thundering noife all the day long, by

flying

flying
they
it is V
much
a chin
in the
did th
Europ,
neys ?
them
adopte
Catejh)
figured
Felafgt
The
(Linnc
every v
\n the I
Jakes.

The

cribed

Qatejby

Hirundi

than th

places ]

on the

thefe A

for the

near the

hawks 1

and ajar

^ Hiruna
t. 8.

t Hirum

New Jerfey, Raccoon,

II

flying np and down in the chimneys, and as
hey bujld .he,r nefts ia chimneys o^ly, and
itis wdi known that the /WWhave not fo
much as a hearth made of n^afonry. much lefs
a chnnney. but make their fires on the ^^ound
.n thexr huts, it is an obvious queftion. Where
d.d thefe Swallows build their nefts b^foVe .he
^«r.^.««. came and made houfes with chim-
neys ? It ,s probable that they formerly made
them jn great hollow trees. This opinion was
adopted by Mr. Bar.ram, and many others here
C.../4r has defcribed ih. Chimney S^^allo^^k

plSia ' °'- ^'""''"' ""^'^ " "''■""^»

The Ground Swallows or Sand Martms,

fL'mceuss Htrundo riparia) are to be met with

every where ■„ Amertca ; they make their nefls

n the ground on the fteep ihores of rivers and

The Purple Martms have likewife been def-

^:'^tejby f. Dr. Ltnnaus likewife calls thetn
Ilirundo purpurea They are lefs common her^
than the former fpecies ; I have feen in feveral

SThe n rrH^°"^r T^^ °' ''°="-'^''' ""d fixed
Th^f If ^ ^ °^ '^' ^''"'' °" P^^Pofe that
thefe iW™ „ay u,ake their nefts i^ them ;

n/ i! P'°P'V^ ""^ ''^'5™"'' of having thetii

hawks and crows as foon as they fee them.
3nd alartn the poultry, by their anxious note, of

^ Jiirundo^ Cauda aculeate. Jm^rirana r»»»-it- ^, . . ...
t. 8. " "^^' '>-oi.c*u, »^aroI. vol. Ill ;

t ^;>//W. /*r/«r.«. Nat. Hifl. of Carol, vol. i. t. ^u

tho

II

\^i%.

'i

1

i

>

(■ii;

( .

f *

>rH

It

'li;

'< IS

'I 1

if-

f

]■ ^^

r

« I

1^

h if.

12

April 1749.

the approach of their enemies. The chickens
are likewife ufed to run under dieher, as foon as
they are warned by the Martins.

yip* 17th. The Dirca paluftrls^ or Moufe^
woody is a httle flirub which grows on the riling
ground adjoining to the fwamps and marflies,
and was now in full bloflbm. The Englijh
in Albany call it Leather-wood, becaufe its baric
is as tough as leather. The French in Canada
call it Bois de Plovib, or Leaden-wood, becaufe
the wood itfelf is as foft and as tough as lead.
The bark of this fhrub was made ufe of for
ropes, baikets, &c. by the Indians, whilfl: they
lived aihong the Swedes. And it is really very
fit for that purpofe, on account of its remarkable
ftrength and toughnefs, which is equal to that of
the Lime-tree bark. The EngUJJj and the Dutch
in many parts of North America, and the French
in Canada, employ this bark in all cafes where
we make ufe of Lime-tree bark in Europe.
The tree itfelf is very tough, and you cannot
ealily feparate its branches without the help of a
knife : fome people employ the twigs for rods.

Ap. 20th. This day I found the Straw-
berries in flower, for the firfl: time, this year :
the fruit is commonly larger than that in Swe-
den ; but it feems to be lefs fweet and agreeable.
The annual harveft, I am told, is always of
fuch a nature, that it affords plenty of bread for
the inhabitants, though it turns out to greater
advantage in fome years than it does in others.
A venerable feptuagenary Swede, called Aoke

>-//>/*!» nfk.ymn rv^ a ♦ r» « » 1 r» r\ 1 r» (hii>'>f3 f>0 o r> 1 a-\ I n t*» 1 it

barren

crop

people
It is \\V
their hi
and frc
clear c
Many
this ace
membe
fuffer ir
ftarved
Sometir
year th
drought
always c
inhabita
famine
plcafe (
ni{hmen
more th
no cold
is of (hi
feldom 0
thing is
fow ihe
feafouv'j,
another i
of fome 1
There is
or Nov eh
not reap
of fruit,
fortune il
'^n many c

peoph

New Jerfey, Raccoon. 13

people had dways had pretty plentiful crops.
Ins l.kewife to be obferved. that the people eat
the.r bread of ma.ze, rye, or wheat, quite pure
and free from the inferior kinds of corn, and
dear ot hu/ks, ftalks, or other impurities!
Many aged Swedes and Englijhmen confirmed
th.s account, and faid, that they could not re-
member any crop fo bad as to make the people
fuffer ,n the leaft. ,j,uch lefs that any body w^as
ftarved to death, whilft they were in AJerica.
Sometimes the price of corn rofe higher in one
year than m another, on account of a ^reat
drought or bad weather, but ftill there\vas
always corn fufRcient fortheconfumption of the
inhabuants. Nor is it likely that any great
famine can happen in this country, unlefs it
p.cale God to afflift it with extraordinary pu-
n.fliments. The weather is well known, from
more than fixty years experience. Here are
no cold nights which hurt the germ. The wet
IS ot (hort continuance, and the drought is
eldom or never of long duration. But thS chief

t^'^u '^^J'^'' ."'""y °f "■•"• The people

fow the different kinds, at different times and

lealons. and though one crop turn out bad. yet

another lucceeds The fummer is fo long, that

of fome fpec.es of corn they may get three crops.

Th„e IS hardly a month from May to OBober

or hio'jember. inclufive. in which the people do

not reap fome kind of corn, or gather fome fort

ot iruit. It would indeed be a very creai mis-

or.une if a bad crop (hould happen /for here, as

in many other placef. thpv In,, .,r. .,„ rt«„, .^ j

are

I

k

ill

m

i J I

i t

I

1

1'

■ t

1

t ■

\ '■

^

\

•fM!

«-1

' i 'm

,,:l

14

^pril 1749.

are contented that there is plenty of food for thtf
prefent exigencies.

The Pe^ch-trees were now every where in
bloflb,m ; their leaves were not yet come out of
the buds, and therefore the flowers (hewed td
greater advarrtage ; their beautiful pale red colour
had a very fine cfFc(ft ; and they fat fo clofe that
the branches were entirely clad with them.
The other fruit-trees were not yet in flower ',
however the apple-hloflbms began to appear.

The Engltjh and the Swedes of America give
the name ot Currants * to aflirub which grows
in wet ground, and near fwamps, and which was
now in bloflTom ; irs flowers are white, have a
very agreeable fragancy, and grow in oblong
bunches ; the fruit is very good eating, when it
is ripe ; the Jiyle [Stylus) is thread-fhaped (Jili-
formts), and ihorter than the Stamina-, it is di-
vided in the middle, into five parts, or Stigmata,
Dr. Liiinceus calls it Cratcegus -f-, and Dr. Gro-
ncvlus calls it a Mefpilus %,

^p, 22d. The Swedes give the name of
Whipperiwill, and the Englifli that of Whip-poor-
will^ to a kind of nodturrial bird, whofe voice is
heard in North America^ almofl: throughout the
whole night. Catejhy and Edwards both have
defcribed and figured it §. Dr. Linnceus calls it
a variety of the Caprimulgiis Europaus, or Goat^

* It muft be carefully diftinguifhed from wliat is called Cur-
rants hr^England, \j\\\ch\s {\\q Ribcs rubrum. F«

t Crtttagus tometnoja, Linn. Spec. Pi. p. 682.

X Mefpilus itienniSf foliis ovato-oblongist /err at is-, fultus tomentc*
Jis, Gronov. Fl. Virgin. 55.

& Catrimtihits minor Jlmericanns. CateO). Nat. Hi ft. o( Carolina,

, . . . .

Vol. in. I. 16. Edxvards's Nat. Hill, of Birds, i. 6"^.

fucker :
make it
other,
one dirt:
from all
winter,
mer. I
many ot
it before
name is
fpeaklng

IVhip'po

the firft

interme(

EjigliJJ:*

poor-wil

cation :

but foon

tinues fo

Europe.

for fome

again : i

and fett]

coming 1

fleps of t

very (hy,

f:ttle clo

to the he

fifts of i

tlie houfc

whippcri'i

up and c;

you hear

fucker

New Jerfey, Raccoon. |^

fucker : Its fliape, colour, fize, and other qualities,
make it difficult to diftinguifli them from each
other. But the peculiar note of the American
one dilhnguiOies it from the European one, and
from all other birds : it is not found here during
winter, but returns with the beginning of fumt
mer. I heard it to-day, for the firft time, and
many other people faid, that they had not heard
It before this fummer j its Englijh and Swedifb,
name is taken from its note; but, accurately
fpeaking, it does not call Whipperiwill, nor
IVhlp'poor-vjill, but rather Whipperiwip, fo that
the firft and laft fyllables are accented, and the
intermediate ones but flightly pronounced. The
Eiiglifi change the call of this bird into Whip^
poor-ivilh that it may have fome kind of fignifi-
cation : it is neither heard nor feen in day-time i
but foon after fun-fet it begins to call, and con,
tinues tor a good while, as the cuckow does in
Europe. After it has continued calling in a place
for fome time, it removes to another, and begins
again : it ufually comes feveral times in a niaht,
and fettles clofe to the houfes j I have i^t^ it
coming late in the evening, and fettling on the
Iteps of the houfe in order to fing its fong; it is
very (hy, and when a perfon flood flill, it would
f:ttle clofe by him, and begin to call. It came
to the houfes in order to get its food, which con-
fifts of infcds; and thofe always abound near
the houfes at nighty when it fat and called its
iv/uppemvlnp, and faw an infed pafTing, it flew
up and caught it, and fettled again. Sometimes
you hear four or five, or more, near each other,
ca^iing as it were for a wager, and raifing a great

great
noifc

V

!l

fji

'!i,

■^1;.

t. '

I

iM:

if
*

. 4

1

' i

J

' ^ i

.,L

(

1

I. 'I

l6 ' ^prii 1749.

noife in the woods. They were feldom heard
in towns, being either extirpated there, or
frightened away, by frequent (hooting. They
do not like to fit on trbes, but are commonly
on the ground, or very low in bufhes, or on the
lower poles of the enclofure^. They always fly
near the ground : they cdntifiue their calling at
night tin '^ i^rovvs quite dark ; they are filent till
the daw » Jay comes ori, and then they call
till the fun rifes. The fun feems to ftbp their
mouths, or. dazzle their eyes, fb as to make
them fit ftill. I have never heard them call in
the midft of" night, though I hearkened very
attentively on purpofe to h?ar it -, and many
others have done the fame. I am told they
make no ncfl:, but lay two eggs in the open
fields. My fervant (hot at one which fat on a
bufh near the houfe, and though he did not hit
it, yet it fell down through fear, and lay for
fame time as if dead 5 but recovered afterwards.
It never attempted to bite when it vras held in
the hands, only endeavouring to get loofe by
llirring itfelf about. Above, and clofe under
the eyes, were feveral black, long, and ftiff
briflles, as in other nocturnal birds. The Euro-
peans cat it. Mr. Catejhy fays, the Indians
afiirm, that they never faw thefe birds, or heard
of them, before a certain great battle, in which
the Europeans killed a great number q{ Indians,
Therefore, they fuppofc that thefc birds, which
are reftlefs, and utter their plaintive note at
night, are thie fouls of their anceftors who died
in battle.

Jp>

'4
tofh(

large

Th

howc

They

leaves

Th

and I

the la

which

Penn s

tall on

their ]

earliert

To-

treey (

yet cor

The

Woods,

poor". '

fandy

plants 1

appear

by thei

tie eat 1

forry to

fond of

they hai

touched

and its

OL.

New Jerfey, Perm's Neck. ,7

tn ii' ^f"- Jl'^''^ "^^ Cherry-trees began
to fhew the.r bloffjms; they had already pretty
large leaves. / pctiy

"The Apple-trees h'kewife began to blolTom •
however the C/;.ro,-r.... were" more forward!

.n Jf "^ Mulberry-trees * Were yet quite naked ;
and I was /orry to f5nd that this trie is one of

Lh.VN '" S^"'"g '"^«' »nd one of the firft
Which gets fruit.

Pem s Neck The Tulip- frees, efpccially the
tall ones, looked quite green, being covered with

earlielt whjch get leaves.
^ To-day I faw the flowers of the Sa/n,fras.
tree, (Laurus Sqffafras.J The leaves were not
yet come out. The flowers have a fine frtiell.

IHE /.;;(;&««;« peremis is abundant in- the
woods, and grows equally in good foil and in
poor. I often found it thriving on very poor
Tandy fields, and on heaths, where no other
plants w,ll groiv. Its flowers, which commonly
appear .n the middle of May, rtiake i, fine fliew
by their purple hue. I was told, that the cat-
tle eat thefe flowers very greedily ; but I was
lorry to find very often that they were not fo
Jond of It, as It is reprefented, efoecially wheft
they had any thing eile to eat j and they feldom
touched It, notwithftanding its fine green colour,
and Its foftneis : The horfcs cat the flower/

1 ■ j ' ( (■

"'■'■J ''
'■'\. ! ::

1'

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Vol. II.

Mo

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but

I

1 8 ''Jprit 1749.

but leave the ftalks and leaves. If the cat-
tle eat this plant in fpring, neceffity and hun-
ger give it a relifh. This country does not af-
ford any green paftarcs like the Swedtjh ones 5
the woods are the places where the cattle muft
collea their food. The ground in the woods is
chiefly flat, or with very little rifings. The
trees ftand far afunder ; but the ground between
them is not covered with green fods 5 for there
are but few kinds. of grafles in the woods, and
they fland fingle and fcattered. The foil is very
Joofe, partly owing to the dead leaves which co-
ver the ground during a great part of the year.
Thus the cattle find very little grafs in the woods,
and are forced to be fatisfied with all kinds of
plants which come in their way, whether they
be good or bad food. I faw for feme time this
fpring, that the cattle bit oflfthe tops and (hoots
of young trees, and fed upon them ; for no
plants were yet ^ome up, and they ftand in ge-
neral but very thi. ''nd fcattered here and there,
as I have juft menti. ed. Hence you may ea-
fily imagine that hun^ compels the cattle to
eat plants, which they \ ild not touch were
they better provided for. However, I am of
opinion, that it would be worth while to make
ufe of this Lupine to mend dry fandy heaths,
and, I believe, it would not be abfolutely im^
pofTible to find out the means of making it a-
greeable to the cattle.

The Oaks here have fimilar qualities with the
European ones. They keep their dead leaves al-
moft during the whole winter, and are very
backward in getting fr^fh ones ; they had no

leaves

New Jerfey, Raccoon. ,p

'eaves as yet, and were hn\ \.^(v k«^' •
fiiew a few. ^^^ beginning to

K^ll\i^Tr'^^^^^^^^ '^' ^^^edes call

^tngs^btrd\ and which I have mentioned in a

former volume appeared hereabouts rdal^or
the firft time this fpring. ^*

Numbers o^ Oil h^rfht rn/r.i - n ^'
^^usj fat on thele^tes o th,C'g^£'f;;?-
^...«.. ./^«V and feafted on iSll'/lL

leaf 1; at ' ^"" "''"^' ^"'^ '^cy devoured a

readv 'I "^r"'""''!- ^"""^ "^ 'hem had al-

cr2 Th ° u'""''! ^"^^ "'^y ^°"ld hardly
trcep Thus t^.s phnt, which is almoft ccr-

ta.n death to other animals, is their dabty food.
Tii^Fire-fies appeared at night, for the firft
U„.e th,s year, and flew about between , he trees

iparfs of fire flew up and down. I will tive a
njore pamcular account of them in an^mher

Towards night I went to Raccoon,

the^L'n^d at f"' 't "'^''' ""'' ''^ ^°^^' '^^^
C T VolrproS"^ Th: 1 "JS^^ ^! ^"^-'
meter was a de'grS'L a'h'alf t^fth ' fre""-'

waters of any depth j but upon fuch onlv as

th cLtr/'"'' rh«deep.^he ice lay Zh
tnicKnels of one third part of a //W + The
evemng before, the wind was fouth.^but TL
.n.ght was calm. The appJe-trees and cherly!

^ tree*

^1:.

I .11

do

May 1749.

trees were in full bloflbm. The peach-trees
were almoft out of flower. Moft of the foreft-
trees had already got new and tender leaves, and
moft of tjaem were in flower, as almofl: all kinds
of oaks, i\n:^og'VJOQ^y fComus VloridaJ , hiccory,
wild prunes, faflafras, horn-beam, beeches, 6cc.
The plants which were found damaged by
the froft, were the following, i. The Hiccory.
Moft of the young trees of this kind had their
leaves killed by the froft, fo that they looked
quite black in the afternoon ; the leaves were
confumed by froft every where in the fields, near
the marfties, and in the woods. 2. The black
Oak, Several of thefe trees had their leaves da-
maged by the froft. 3. The white Oak. Some
very young trees of this kind had loft their leaves
by the froft. 4. The bloflToms of the Cherry-
trees were hurt in feveral places. 5. The
flowers of the Englijh Walnut-tree were entirely
fpoiled by the frolt. 6. The Rhus glabra. Some
of thefe trees had already got leaves, and they
were killed by the cold. 7. The Rhus radi-
cans ; the tender young trees of this kind fuf-
fered from the froft, and had their leaves partly
killed. 8. The Thali^lra, or Meadow Rues,
had both their flowers and leaves hurt by the
froft. 9. The Podophyllum pcltatum. Of this
plant there was not above one in five hundred
hurt by the froft. 10. The Ferns, A number
of them, which were lately come up, were de-
ftroyed. 1 muft add feveral plants which were
likewife hurt, but which I could not diftin-
guiQi, on account of their fmallnefs.

1 WENT to feveral places this day. ^

'I'HB

New Jerfey, Raccoon. i,

^nT*"^ ^^V^" ''°'^''"'"' Sf««' in great abundance
on fcvera low meadows. Its floVr-buds were
already t.nged with their precious fcarlet, and
adorned the meadows. It Ts not yet appli d "o
any ufe. but that of delighting the fight.

One of the Swedes here had planted an En,-
///» walnut-tree r>^7^«^ n-^w/ in his gnrden
and ,t was now about three yards high Ht was'
1" full bloffoa., and had already gfeat leave/
whereas the black walnut-trees! vvhich grow
fpontaneoufly in every part of thi's countryf "=^
not yet any leaves, or flowers. The laft n pht^

fhere hS I f"' '"''^ '"'= ^''^^^^^ards, that

PuIm '""JT^ ^"Sl'fi walnut-trees in
F/nladc/p/na, wh.ch came on very well : but
that they were killed by the froft.

I LOOKED about me for the trees which had

not yet got freA leaves, and I found the fol-
lowing ones :

Juglans nigra, or the i?/^r^ V/alnut-iree.

I'raxmiis excelfior, or the Ajh

Acer Negundo, called the Whi'tc All here.

/Vj/^^ aquatica, the 'rtipdo-tree.

Dtojpyros Virginiana. or the Perftmon.

yttts Lal^rufca, or the Fox^grapes ; and

/^////J- ^/^^r^, or the 6'2//?;,/r/;.

The trees whofe leaves were coming out,
were the following : ^ '

Moms rubra, tlie Midherry-^tree
Fagus Cajlanea, the Chefnut-tree.
Flatanus occidentalism or the Water-beech
Laurus Saffafras, the Saffafras-tree,
Juglans alba, the Hiccory. Some trees of

^ 3 this

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May 1749.

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this kind had already large leaves, but othcr«
had none at all; the lame difference, I believe,
cxifts hke wife among the other fpecics of hiccory.
The Virginian Cherry-tree grows here and
there, in the woods and glades : its leaves were
already pretty large ; but the flowers were not
yet entirely open.

The Safci/ras-free was now every where in
flower 5 but its leaves were not yet quite direlofed.
The Ltqiridamhar Siyradfliia or S-wcet Gum-
tree, grows in the woods, eipccially in wet foil,
in and near purling rivulets : its leaves were now
already fprouting out at its funimit. This tree
grows to a great thicknefs, and its height rivals
that of the tulleft firs and oaks ; as it grows
higher, the lower branches die and drop, and
leave the ftem at lafl quite fmooth and (Irait,
with a great crown at the very fummit i the
leeds are contained in round, dentated cones,
which drop in autumn j and as the tree is very
tall, fo tne high winds carry the feeds away to
a great diflance. I have already given an ac-
count of the ufe of this tree in the firft volume,
to which I muft add the following ;iccount.
^ The wood can bs made very fmooth, becaufe
Its veins are extremely fine : but it is not hard -,
you can carve letters on it with a knife, which
Wil feem to be engraved. Mr. Lewis Evans
told me, Irom his own experience, that no wood
in this country was more fit for makina moulds
for carting brafs in, than this. I enquired of
Mr. Bartram, - Whether he had found the
rolin on this tree, which is fo much praifed in
Phyfic ? He told me, "That a very odorife-

rous

^i•tt' Jerfey. Sakm.

^ne further you 20 to tlu- 9., ./ \^ "^'
quantity of gu',„ d^es th ref Sd'l f I"'"

the di n e 5f cl"/"'' ''Tl"^ calculated ?„;
docs not ^ ' "' '" "''= »°^"^"n ones ip

nowers, which h^m™.,^ yiuancc lor its fine
quite velTow ThTf *'""" °P'"' 'n^deitlook

"P pretty high: but it fst 1^^?^"
thefe meadoivs were marrtiv ""^ °'i"-"'^''" 'hat

had been c„ the^t^ S', rt' "° 7'"^
are mown twice a year 1^;; J'^'"-'^ "'«dows

whth /rj gT:;sthicif '"' '^-^ "- '^'' ^'

be mown aifd m,n 7' "°^ *'"'°'^ «' to

not fuel g'rafs atTh7orn' °"' '" ^^'^'"'^ ^--
thefe had now • hefem.T'' T °^ "^°^'"8' »^
vallies, wherT he Snn h f ^^ '" '"'''^" ''"^

^ + The

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May 1749.

The wild "Prune-trees were now every where
in flower ; they grow here and there in the
woods, but commonly near marfhes and in wet
ground : they arc diflinguifhable by their white
i3ov/ers : the fruit when ripe is eatable.

The Cornus Florida^ or Dogwood^ grows in
the forefts, on hills, on plains, in vallies, in
marfhes, and near rivulets. I cannot therefore
fay which is its native foil ; however, it feems
that in a low but not a wet foil it fucceeds beft ;
it was now adorned with its great fnowy Involu-
era, which render it confpicuous even at a
diftance. At this time it is a pleafure to travel
through the woods, fo much are they beautified
by the bloiToms of tl is tree. The flowers which
are within the Invohicra began to open to-day.
The tree does not grow to any confiderable
height or thicknefs, but is about the fize of our
Mountain Ajh {^Sorbus aucuparia). There are
three fpecies of this tree in the woods ; one with
great white Involucra, another with fmall white
ones, and a third with reddi(h ones.

The woods were now full of birds : I faw
the lefler fpecies tvery where hopping on the
ground, or creeping in budies, without any great
di?gree of fhiivefs ; it is therefore very ealy for
all kind of fnakes to approach and bite them.
1 believe that the rattlefuake has nothing to do
but to ly ftill, and without waiting long, fome
Jittle bird or other will pafs by or run diredtly
upon her, giving her an opportunity of catching
it, without any enchantment.

Salem is a little trading town, fituated at
fame diftance from the river Delaware, The

houlca

houfes d(

ftone, am

town, an

habitants

they can.

fome ver)

fore it is

Experien(

hither frc

pale and

perfea: he

The town

time, by

from the

water are

next to th

with the 2

are hurtfu

fummer, t

quent. I

along with

after their

Salem, in |

ihey fell Cn

over they v

Many <

it is not fc

and French

by being lai

The Gql

an annual f

of Saler/i ha

feeds from <

tations of cc

New Jcrfey, Salem'. a«

houfes do not ftand far afunder, and are partly
Hone, and partly wood. A rivulet palTes by the
town, and^ falls into the Delaware. The i„!
habitants live by their f=veral trades as well as
'hey can. I„ ,he neighbourhood of Salem are
fome very low and fwampy meadows ; and there-
tore It ,s reckoned a very unwholefome place.
Expenence has fhewn, that thofe who "cam^
h. her from other places to fettle, got a ve?v
pale and fickly look, though the^ irived "^
perfea health, and with a'very iLly cotu"
The town ,s very eafily diftinguiflied about this

iT'.l^f'' '^'^^"^ble ftench which arifs
from the fwamps. The vapours of the outrid
water are carried to thofe inhabitants which live
next to the marftes j and enter the body along
w.th the a,r, and through the pores, and thuf
are hurtful to health. A, the*^ end of every
rummer, the intermitting fevers are very fre-
quent. I knew a young couple, who came
along wah me from England to America: foon
after the.r arrival at Philadelphia, they went to
Salem, jn perfeft health ; but a few weeks after
they fell fack. and before the winter was half
over they uere both dead.

Many of the inhabitants plant Saffron; but
It IS not fo good and fo ftrong as the Er^glifi
^nA French Sajron. Perhaps it grows bft.i
by being laid up for fome years, as tobacco does.
i-^-e-^qUypmmherbaceum, or Cotton plant is
an annual plant J and feveral of the inhabitants
ot Salem had began to fow it. Some had the

Ifcds from C?r»//VM. wh<.r, tl,... I ,.. . ,

,. .• „ » — -"^ '■"^'3 "•'vc great plan-

Utions of cotton; but others got it out of fome

cot tea

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cotton which they had bought. They faid, it
was difficuh, at firft, to get ripe feeds from the
plants which were Town here 5 for the fummer
in Carolina^ from whence their firfl feed came,
is both longer and hotter than it is here. But
after the plants have been more ufed to the tXU
jnate, and haftened more than they were for*
merly, the feeds are ripe in due time.

At night I returned to Raccoon.

May 4th. Crab-trees are a fpecies of wild
apple-trees, which grow in the woods and glades,
but efpecially on little hillocks, near rivers*.
In New Jerfey the tree is rather fcarce ; but in
Penjyhania is plentiful. Some people had
planted a fingle tree of this kind near their
farms, on account of the fine fmells which its
flowers afford. It had begun to open fome of
its flowers about a day or two ago; however,
moft of them were not yet open. They are
exadlly like the bloflbms of the common apple-
trees, except that the colour is a little more red-
difh in ih^ Crab-trees -, though fome kinds of
the cultivated trees have flowers which are very
near as red : but the fmell diftinguifhes them
plainly -, for the wild trees have a very pleafant
fmell, fomewhat like the rafp-berry. The
apples, or crabs, are fmall, four, and unfit for
any thing but to make vinegar of. They ly un-
der the trees all the winter, and acquire a yellow
colour. They feldom begin to rot before fpring
comes on.

* Pyrus aronaria. Linn. Sp. Plant. Malus /ylwfirist fiori*
bus sdoratis^. Gronov* Fl- Virfinics. p. 55.

I CAN-

I CAJ

Crab-treL

and to-d

which a

loft theii

not flowc

other ha

had alreai

of April

xry had r

European

From her

from Eur

trees of ^

latter. I

forward ne

try, unlel!

foon as th

which th(

feems, the

a confidera

nights as v

countries,

fucceeded

ilowers con

trees in rhi

(if I may

warmth -, t

they are ah

fore, It bar

fAiropean ti

the /Kiiive

J^c of the f

This is a r

Creator.

New Jerfey, Raccmn. j.-f

r CANNOT omit an obfervation here The
Crai-irees opened their flowers only y fteSav
and to-day, whereas, the cultivated IpSTj

not flower before Z']:^'^^-!':: tt
other hand, the crltivated or Euri:anol

trvhf,) K '"'' wahiut-trees of this coun-

ty had ne, her leaves nor flowers, when the
W.« '^-d has large leaves and bbffo^' !
From hence It appears, that trees brought over

latter f*''^^'^''' /°^f """ch fooner than the
latter. I cannot fay what is the reafon of this

S"n"e?th "h ^"'■^^"^'' '^"^ - 'hi-o n-
foo'n a^^h ^^ ""^ *°"^ '^'" hloflbms as
which the/ h^" '• "?'" ''^Sree of warmth.
Which they have in their native country. It
feems the EuroJ,ea, trees do not expeft? after
a confiderablc degree of warmth, any^^fuch cold
n.ghtsas will kill theirflowers; for ^in Scold
countries, there feldom happen any hot d^ts
f^cceeded by fuch cold nigl^t"^ ^s will hurt the
owers confiderably. On ^he contra^^.th V^^

It 1 may fo fpeak) not lo truft to the firft

.hrare'M "V'r^r'r '''' ' S-a.er hearrwhej
they are ai, .ady lafe from cold nights. There-
to.. ,t happens often that the flowers of the
EuroJ,r., trees are killed by the froils here bu^
1"= "ai.ve trees are feldom hurt, thcu-h ,hev
^c of the lame kind with th. ^. Jl" '""^

Creator. ^'""^ "^ '^" «""^<^'" ^^ "'e

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May 1749,

May 5th. Early this morning I went to
Rapaapo, which is a great village, wljofe farms
ly all fcattered. It was inhabited merely by
Swedesy and not a fingle Englifimany or people
of any other nation, lived in it : therefore they
have preferved their native Swedijh tongue, and
mixed but few Englijh words with it. The in-
tention of my journey was partly to fee the
place, and to colled: plants and other natural
curiofities there ; and partly to find the places
where the White Cedar, or Ciipreffus thyoides.

grows.

The Mayflowers, as the Swedes call them,
were plentiful in the woods where-ever I went
to-day ; efpecially on a dry foil, or one that is
fomewhat moift. The Swedes have given them
this name becaufe they are in full bloffom in
May. Some of the 'Swedes and the Dutch
call them Pinxter-bloem, fWhitJunday flowersj,
as they really are in bloffom about Wtiitjuntide.
The Englijh call them Wild Honeyfuckles i and
at a didance they have fome fimilarity to the
Honeyfuckky or Lonicera, Dr. LinmeiiSy and
other botanifts, call it an Azalea *. Its flowers
were now open, and added a new ornament
to the woods, being little inferior to the flowers
of ^ the honcyfuckle and Hedyfarum. They
fit in a circle round the ftem's extremity, and
have either a dark red or a lively red colour;
bat, by /landing for fome time, the fun bleaches
them, and at lafl: they get a whitiOi hue. I

•_ * Azalea nuii for a, Ltnn. Spec. Plant, p. 214. Axalia rawu
v>fra Jicres nudts. Gron. Vrg. 21.

know

know n

height (

were as

others v

a palm ;

of flow(

that thii

only gat

becaufe

fmelh b

ever, thi

a place i

To-D.

In Swedi

Ericmas,

ftile f .

they alw

ftile ; wl

However

and in o

reckoned

BuLLF

which I 1
ing to-d
roaring b
in the bu
though th
that of a
bad goria

yzaiea e)

frgecoci. Co!

t Accorilir

X .Ra".a bca

<ana, aquatica

New Jerfey, Rapaapo. «j

know not ^\,y Golden calls them yellow *. The
hs>ght of the bu(h is not always alike <5.™!
were as tall as a full grown 'n^L and tai e"'
others were but low. and forne were not at';

^LfZ \ ^ '^'°P'^ ^""^^ "°' y« found
that th.s plant may be applied to any ufe ; ,hey

only gather the flowers, and put them in potf
becaufe they are very fl,ewy. S^hey have fome
fmell ; bu, I cannot fay it is very pleafanti How-
ever, the beauty of the colour entitles themTo
a place in every flower-garden.

To-DAy I faw the fitft ear of this year's rve

fiilf "t'haT- 'T' 'I *^" "' -" ^l'-'

ftile f. But ,n New Sweden, the peopleVaid
they always faw the ears of rye i„>VoS
^le ; whether the fpring begins late or ear^y:
However ,„ fon,e years thenars come early
and m others late, in ^pHI. This fprine Jl
reckoned one of the late on-s ^ ^

Btn.LFROGS + are a large fpecies of fro«s
wh.ch I had an opportunity of hearing and "e'e^
ing to-day. As I was riding out. I heard a
roarmg before m. ; and I thought it w,s a buU
.n the bufnes. on the other flj^e of the dv "e

t.utof abul. I was however afr.id. that a
bad gonng bull might be near me. though I

t Accordingly about the 291I, „f /,/,, „ew fiile
} R^t-.a team. Linr.. Syft I. -,. ~-<i n " .

l\'k

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May I74fi.

1 \

did not fee him ,• and I continued to tliihfc (q
tillfome hours after, when I talked with feme
Swedes about the Bullfrogs, and, by their ac-
count, I immediately found that I had heard
their voice 5 for the S'wedes told me, that there
were numbers of them in the dvke. I after-
wards hunted for them. Of all the frogs in
this country, this is doubtlefs the greater. I
am told, that towards autumn, as fbon as the
air begins to grow a little cool, they hide them-
felves under the mud, which lies at the bottom
of ponds and ihgnarit waters, and ly there tor-
pid during winter. As foon as the weather
grows mild, towards fummer, they begin to
get out of their holes, and croak. If the fpring,
that is, if the mild weather, begins early, they
appear about the end of March, old flile; but
if it happens late, they tarry under water till
late in April. Their plnces of abode are pond?,
and bogs with flagnant water; they are never
in any flowing water. When many of them
croak together, they make an enornious noife.
Their croak exadly refembles the roaring of an
ox or bull, which is fomewhat hoarfe. They
croak fo loud, that two people talking by the
fide of a pond cannot underftand each other.
They croak all together; then ftop a little, and
begin again. It leems as if they had a captain
among them ; for when he begins to croak, all
the others follow; and when he flops, the
others are all filent. When this captain gives
the fignal for flopping, you hear a note like
poop coming from him. In day-time they fel-
dom make any great noife, unkls the ^^ is co-
vered,

vered. \

and, wh

though I

they cro

of the V

heads 01

flowly, (

they go {

water, tl

water be

SoMEl

the pond

they hafi

They are

Bullfrog 1

have ofter

old Sijoedi

when the

well know

ners 5 I hj

equal the

almofl pail

how well 1

Sivedes laid

he could h(

two leaps

frog, whicJ

^eld, and b

Indian^ wh

the frog, h

tnat it made

as it collide

^rog with al

^^oifc he ma

New Jerfey, Rapaapo. jj

vered. But the night is their croaking time •
and. when all .s calm, you may heaf h^m'
hough you are near a mile and a half off. Wh«[
th«y croak, they commonly are near the furftc"
of the water, under the buflies. and have their
heads out of the water. Therefore, by ,oi^I
flowly. one may get clofe up to them^S
they go away. As foon as they are quite under
water, they think themfelvd fafe. lollZ
water be very fliallow. " '"*

Sometimes they fit at a good diilance from
he pond ; but as foon as theylufpeft any dangeT.
they haften wuh great leaps into the wate/
They are very expert at hopping. A fulI-groS
Bullfrog takes near three yards at one hop I
have often beea told the following ftory by the
ttJZ^^T ;''''^'' hW^ned here! at tL ti^^
when the Tndians lived with the Swedes It is
wen known, that the I„dia„s are excelb^t run.
nersi ^ have feen thera, at Governor Johnfon's
equal the heft horfe in its fwifte/^ cou^fefand
Imoft pafs by it. Therefore, in order to try
Z/f-t ''""-f^°g-^ c^o^ld leap, fome of the
W..laid a wager with a young /;^.fe;^- fhit

two leaps before hand. They carried a bull-
field' a?df '^'{•^^•^ T"""^' '" ^ P^"'^. -^^ ■
Indmn, who endeavoured to be clofely uo wit*,

twg with all his might at the nron^r fi
nojfe he mad- • "- " - - ' "*"'" "

e in runni

ng frightened the poor

fr.

O!

I i

1$

:ri;i':.ii

>1 ■,!

? f w^

i^\

3«

May 1749^

Wi-A

I

frog ; probably it was afraid of being tortured
with fire again, and therefore it redoubled its
leaps, and by that means it reached the pond
before the Indian could over-take it.

In fome years they are more numerous than
in others : nobody could tell, whether the
fnakes had ever ventured to eat them, though
they eat all the leller kinds of frogs. The
women are no friends to thefe frogs, becaufe
they kill and eat young ducklings and goflin^s:
fometimes they carry off chickens that come too
near the ponds. I have not obferved that they
bite when they are held in the hands, though
they have little teeth ; when they are beaten,
they cry out almoft like children. 1 was told
that fome eat the thighs, of the hind legs, and
that they are very palatable.

A TREE which grows in the fwamps here,
and in other parts of America^ goes by the name
of White Juniper-tree, Its item indeed looks
Jike one of our old tall and ftrait juniper-trees
in Sweden : but the leaves are different, and the
wood is white. The Eng/i/h call it mite
Cedar, becaufe the boards which are made of the
wood are like thofe made of cedar. But neither
of thefe names are juft, for the tree is of the
cyprefs kind *. It always growi in wet ground
or fwamps : it is therefore difficult to come to
them, becaufe the ground betwen the little hil-
locks is full of water. The trees lland both on
the hillocks and in the water : they grow very

^ * Cuprejfus thyoides. Linn. Spec. PI. p. 1472. Cypreflas Ame-
ncana, frudlu minimo. Miller's Card. Didtionar/.

. . " - clofe

clofe
flemi
to w]
wher
tall a

prefer
fumm
lower
Th
called
numer
parts o
northcj
found,
one de
latitude
to iht I
in the v
trees wj

than un(
many pu

which ar

point, th

white; i

young cre

fe'ls, tunj

able; the

wood for

are buiit c

sre built c

in Ritpaap,

^^"t the ch

fords is thi

v\

^lofe together, and have ftrait ,W u .
ftems J but they were ^La \ ^'"^^ ^"^^ ^all
'° -hat they hlrbeefbif T'l''" ""-^er
where they are )eft to grow ' ^^Z"''' P'^"'
'^11 and a. thick as thrtaV^^'fi'^'^ ^row as
pieferve their preen 1,7 u , "''-fees s they
Summer, the tf H o„el t ^°'\ '" ^''''ter and
'o-er part of the C " "° ^""=''" ^" '^e

calScXtU'^VJef r S-- -e
numerous i„ W^r^Z "/ff" '^^^"'P' '^=

"""herly pif^e. wbe"e tt h'^K- ^'''= '"°«
one decrees anH m. r ^'^^'^' under forty-

to the North of (^."S^lf l^ ^'^ ^'^'^'"- ^°^
i" the woods. Thf wh ,1 "'a "°^ ^''^ ^°""d
•i-fes whichrefift theloft % ''" "/""= °f 'he
when it is put lr..t \° Pufefaftion ; and

than under ground i™"r''' '^ '^'" '»« J°ng"r

-any P-polsThtatstood f '' '^'"P ^dfor

which are to be put^mn ,f ^''"';"' *"'* P^As

point, the red cedar ° £^,S''°""'^' hut in^his

young trees are emnlol,?! «-^ ,^ ""°*'- The
tells.luns. &c TjlXJ°' ''°°P' ^""•''d bar-
able; the thict . A ?^ '^^^ '•''= '^'" "nd pH-

-°d fS CO ;';•';: L'"%f°;^ ^r'^-. -d

are buiit of it fl' T • ^ ''* ''°"^" which
"^ built of jJXL'l '^"""^" thofe which

'-^the c1,ief thi^:tl' "!."'^"f."d- wood,

f^rds js the bell: k

which the white cedar af-

^

01. JI.

■^iHi

^i liiingies. The white

D

cedar

«!

1 ;$

i<'i

!r>

.J^i'

I • i

I

"I

i

34

May 1749.

i'(

%

cedar (lilnglcs are preferred to all others for
feveral reafons ; firft, they are more durable than
any others made of American wood, the red
cedar ihingles excepted ; fecondly, they are very
light, fo that no (Irong beams are requifite to
fiipport the roof. For the fame reafon it is un-
iiGcefiary to build thick walls, bfcaufe they are
not prcfcd by heavy roofs. When fires break
out, it is lefs dangerous to go under or along
the roofs, bccaufe the fhingles being very light
can do little hurt by falling ; they fuck the
water, being fomcwhat fpungy, fo that the roofs
can eafily be wetted in cafe of a fire : however,
their fatncfs occafions that the water does net
hurt them, but evaporates eafily. When they
burn and are carried about by the wind, they
have commonly what is called a dead coal,
which dots not eafily fet fire where it alightr.
The roofs made of thefe fli ingles can eafily be
cut through, if required, becaufe they are thin,
and not very hard -, for thefe qualities the people
in the country, and in die town?, are very de-
firous of having their houfes covered with white
cedar (hingles, if the wood can be got. There-
fore all churches, and the houfes of the more
fubftantial inhabitants of the towns have fliin-
gle roofs. In many parts of N'cw Tork province,
where the white cedar does not grow, the peo-
ple, however, have their houfes roofed with
cedar fliingles, which they get from other parts.
To thot purpofe great quantities of il:iingles are
annually exported from Bjggharbour and other
parts of New Jerfy, to the town of New Tork^
from whence they are dlflributed throughout tbs

provirce.

frov

Jifcew

/or/}

tants

humt

til em

other

their c

/)ofteri

are aJr

young

cou/uir
do nor

^Ci\\ of

^t is wt

had OIK

thicker

^eter; h

two fee

forty- tw(

years gro

•"'■iifed fro

tht advan

have over

nefs. Bu

ffifure tin

Philadelph

are roofed

itiade oft

^^t a trifli,

^ave made

^he thickne

A^.w yerfey, R^p^^^^^

province A • '35

tants are very bufv here nor ,"'"'* ''"''-"-
•^'.mber of there tree, b,^ "'^ '° ''••'^^" "^e
«^'«n entirely. Thev ^ u "'" '" «tirpa,e

their own pfefent nf^w. . ^^' ^'^"t only un,,;

^'°«7--^y- By f Sr ""'^ '•'^s-^' "'■-f

y-"^ /hoo>. ,en . ah ?Sr .''/-•"i' o„{y
counting the cifcles round ,h / "^'^rved. b>
f ""t grow up very qSv K """' '''^f 'hey
,;^^:'l of tin.e.before^,Kt^'^' ^^q^i-'c a gre,^
^' " wtll known that a tr?. ' '"' ^°' "'^ber.
f^y year; a ftem. j'h ff/^'l^^'y one drcl,^

^"^■ker end : another ^ '"'" """""d the

'^° f«t in diameter hfd'" '' u "'^ ^"°'''^^
years growth is reaiLd il f"^ "««• cghtv
;7"-ed fron, feed cTbe tfedt^' • ' .^^'''' "'I-

'^e advantages which ,hi1 1 ' "™^"^- ^mong
''7 over ofber., the 'o.le I '"^'' ^'"g'^«
"^'^- B.U this good and^ /r,''°" '^'" "ght-
{"fure times turn o,,/ ^! "' '5"^'"^ may i„

^«//^.;.. an "oth ; Ses '"^""'^2^°- '"
"e roofed with ceda n,- , '^''"'^ 'he houfes

f"de of thefe (h g s^'tV rV' "'^ -"'
b"t a trifling waVhl „„ rh '^"'T, ''S''^' """^ bear

f-e-.de L .t\Z e v7h"^' 'V^' P^opl.

'he tbK-knefs of ,he wal s of r- "'• - ""''^"'"^

"^ three ftofies high Tee t ^ '''' ''°"'^^ f'^re.

^f^jiwiar and garret not incJud:

tlH'ltiji!

I'iV'l

<'l

36

May 1749.

ed), and found mod: of them nine inches and a
half, and fome ten inches thick j therefore it is
by no means furprifing, that violent hurricanes
fometimes make the brick gable-ends to vibrate
apparently, efpecially on I'uch houfes as have a
very open fituation. And fince the cedar trees
will foou be wanting in this country, and the
prcfent roofs when rotten mud be fupplicd with
heavier ones, of tiles, or of other wood, it is
more than probable, that the thin walls will not
be able to bear fuch an additional weight, and
wili cither break, or require to be fapported by
props : or elfe the whole houfe mufl: be pulled
down and rebuilt with thicker walls. This ob-
fervation has already been made by others Some
of the people here make ufe of the chips of white
cedar inflead of tea, alluring me that they pre-
ferred it in regard to its wholefomcncfs to all
foreign tea. All the inhabitants here were of
opinion, that the water in the cedar fwamps is
wholefomer than any other drink 5 it creates a
great appetite, wbich they endeavoured to prove
by feveral examples. They afcribed this quality
to the water itfelf, which is filled with the rofin
of the trees, and to the exhalations which came
from the trees, and can eafily be fmelled. The
people likewife thought that the yellowifh colour
of the water, which flands bctw^cen the cedar
trees, was owing to the rofin, which comes out
of tbe roots of thefe trees. They likewife all
agreed, that this water is always very cold in the
hottcft feafon, which may be partly owing to
the continual fliade it is in. I knew feveral
people who were refolvcd to go to thefe cedar

fwan

their
cedar
there
when
very \
xi2an,
is verj
gation
branch
them
roots,
them r
The
I have
of my
Dame o
red and
Cedar,
the Sw.
tree bej
growth

quite di

femblcs 1

to its col

^o big, t:

-At Racci

X\ot very

thfim ftar

fame groi

clpeciaJIy

Juniperu
t Juniperui

Awamps,

«heir ii«itl"'l;l'' r;" ^o^ fhc recovery of

there: he then on ' u • . ^?''' "°' '"""eed

-here it got aTit^we 'Z m^l^ «-""".

very weli ; and though it was ;«« t.ll"T °"

pan. yet it was full of cone, Ann," "'.'" '

'5 very remarkable, with re'L fn ?K ' ''""S

g«.on of this tree • Mr n P'°P'-

l^ranchesiufpringtwoyeafsfucfTr '"' '"
'hem into the fwamnv fn I u^"''/' """^ P"'

roots, and ruccee7ed''Ly'''weTl'"ri? '^r"'^"

oi" my account S ^ •^"f" '^ '" «he courfc
oame of red lunioT^h 't \''" ^''"^ " 'he

tree belon^gs to 'h" ^^^.^^''ir'-r A=
growth t has a deal J r3i • ' ."' ^rft

qui'/SeTenVleav s The"h'''°"" "^ " «"»
ftmble, that of tbe"«„5%t7 '^'"^'>' ^^-
'o its colour and LlT t J"'"P'"'' >•> regard
fo big, though ih^^rj r7''"* '^'y «re not

Jimiperm Virpininnn. r ;- o.^^ ^ ,

^ other

I,

'A

m

■■)

i.f

iif M

1

i

'J

1 ;

v\

< 'ill

,t f

3? Mr^v ly^^.

other rifing grounds, in a dry, and frequeutk
in a poor loil. I have feen them growing iii
abundance, as thick and tall as the talleft fir^
tree?, on poor dry and fandy heaths. Towards.
Canada, or in the mod northerly places, where
Oave feen them, they commonly choofe the
iteep fides of the mountains, and there they
J?row promifcuoufly with the common Juniper.
The mcft northerly. places, where I have found
them wild m the woods, is in Canada, eighteen
I'rench miles to the fouthward of the Fort Samt
Jean, or St^ John. In abput 4^0 . ^^^^^
Lmiuoe. I have likewife fecn it growing very.
\^'cUu^ a garden, on the iflaqd of Magdalene \
belongmg to the then governor of MontreaK
Mo?2/mir le Baron de LQngueil. But it had been
gotatmqrefoutherly place?, and was tranfplant-
td here. Of ajl the woods in this country,
this is without exception the moft durable, and
With! ands putrefadion longer than any other •
n IS therefore employed in all fuch cafes where
li IS moft liable to rot, efpecially for all kinds of
po(ts which are to be put into the ground. Some
people hy that if an iron be put into the ground
^long with a pole of cedar, the iron would be

halfcorrodedbyruftinthefametimethatthewood
xvould be rotten. In many places both the fences,
and the pofls belonging to them, are made of red
cedar. The beft canoes, confifting oi a fmole
piece of wood, are made of red cedar ; for th^'ey
lad longer than any others, and are very light.
In A,,^ 2ork I have feen pretty large yachts
buiit of red cedar. Several yachts which go

e river St, la-.K.re>icc, clofc by the town of

* At\ \([zn<^ m th
Montreal in Cnruidc.

fror

are

tion

the^

red (

the

reafo

cedar

plent

heart

what(

a very

coloui

be ex(

a parl(

of i\\Q

AfTeml
boards
that th
ginninc
and th<
the boai
their c(
obliged
ever, I
colour if
^^efli, ai
care is t
rubbed r
^eep its

* The low
^ater, is mac

i:

om

Ne

la

^rom New Tork to Alb

J^^fiy, nhpaaft

29

are

■oned ,n the firft volume « ' £ p/v 7' ""
they cannot make aiv „- i .' fMadelphia

red cedar, becaufe ihYnr ■ °' °"'^^ ^'"^'^ "f

reafon they do not roof ?K • u "/ ''^^ '^"e
cedar fting^es , b°t [nL^"', ''°"'^* ^'"'h red

p!-tifu). It make" excdl^tf T ''';^''= '' '^
li^rt of this cedar k nf fi ^ood roofs. The

whatever is mad of .S":"'/^'^^-' -'^
a very agreeable aid JLl r 7 ^"^' ^"^ l^^s
colou'r ffdes S .Agrees tr 'if"''" ^•■'' "^=

be exceeding]/ proSr . J ' "'^ "^""^ ^ould
T r,,ri • / r'^perjor cabinet wort Tr
J pailour in the country feat of riT a> . ^ ^'"^
of the Members of the P f, : ^'"'''''- °"e
if'Tembly. w.infcottS SS ~ "^"'■^ "^
boards of red cedar Z \/''' '^° ^«'»
that the cedar looked ;.r.^ ^'"'''" ^'^"''^'^ ""e

§'■-.> butitt?;Tctdete''r^''-

and the boards Jbok^d vert ffiabbv" ef''" ^

the boards near tk- • i "^ \-"^'^^y* efpeciallv

their colour fp'^LTtr i^^' •^""■^''>' '"^
obliged ,p p^, „':,ht; W. AV- had bee„

C'^^^ I was told fU.. u ^^^^^ • ^ow^

coiour if rthin va'rnJ^'if = '"°°'^ "'" ^"^^P "^

freffi, and juft after t . ''"- "'^°" " ^■'^'■'*^ " '^

care is takin ,h he too. "" P^'"""' ^"'^ ''f

rubbed or hurt A. T-'^ " "°' afterwards

^«P its co,our-tn«^ t'^r Xa';;'"^' ^f''

D4

Since

If

I 1 /;■ '!

i:l i

M

S ! ■

J^f!'

ill

*l

¥ i4

I % Ai

I'

11 i I

I: I

' '!

l'.?*V

49 May ly^^

9'ince h has a very pleafant fmell whenfre/L.
fome people put the, ihavings and chips of it
among their linen, to feeure it; againft being
worm-eaten. §ome likewife get bureaus, &c,
madj of red cedar, with the fame. view. But
Jt IS only ufeful foe .(his purpofe as Jojig as it is
frt{h, for It lofes its fmell after fome time, and
IS then no longer good for keeping off in fedts,
Jt IS fometimes fent to England, as timber, and
fells very well. In many places round Fhiladel-
phta, in the feats of the gentry, there was com-
monly an avenue, with a row of thefe trees
planted on both fides, leading from the high
road to the houfe. The lower branches were
cut, and only a fine crown left. In winter,
when mofl other trees have loft their leaves,
this looks very fine. This tree has likewife a
very llowgrowth i for a flem, thirteen inches and
a quarter in diameter, had one hundred and eigh-
ty-eight rings, or annual circles; and another,
eighteen inches in diameter, fcad at leaft two
hundred and fifty, for a great number of the
rings were h fine that they could not be count-
ed. This tree is propagated in the fame man-
ner as the common Juniper- tree is in Sweden,
VIZ. chiefly by birds, which eat the berries and
emit the feeds entire.

In the evening I returned to Raccoon.
May 6th, The Mulberry-trees fMorus
rubra) about this time began to blofibm, bu
their leaves were yet very fmall. The people
divided them into male and female trees or
flowers ; and faid that thofe which never bore any
fruit were males, and thofe which did, females.

Smilax

Smi

the fv

now b

all eve

fhrubs,

anothei

betweej

with hi

fo it is 1

a pafiiag

plentifu

of long

of a rof^

and tcai

ibmetim

when bo

not to m

Jutely ru

fions a c

from XttK

^oop, anc

little pafii

and then

"^^^i a fna

fi'om dart

plant has

hufhes. 1

tJie fpincs

be a kind

deftitute oi

May 8th

"ocked w

icind efpeci

New Jerfey, Raccoon.

-- beginning to come^^r foJ^V^r T'^
all every w nter j it climh. ■ ^^^^ ^^^^

'"Other : fay ,hil .^^ns Trt,°? "■'" °' """^ ^o
between the treerS nfi ftlfP"'^ P^^8«
with its cirrhi or tendrns £ J '^ ""3^ ^^crc
fc it is with the uS d ffl!"u ''^" <"' People.

P'^tiful, the ftaiktoKs the h'' '"''"= "'^
°f long fpines, whichTre aVfton "°T '^ ^""
of a rofe.bu/h. and cateh hl.^ "I '.' "'^ ^P'""
"nd tear them : this ?„ u}% "^ '''^ clothes,
fometitnes bring yo^ S".'^°™« P'^"' n^ay*

when botanizing^or^oii^g Lo tl!'"'"' f""^'''
not to mention that fh^?! u "'^ "'°''''''' ft>r.
l«ely ruined by it nums'^fV^V^'^ft be abfo-
fion» a deep fhade i„7h/ ' 5^'""' " °oca-
Jom tree to^ tree V of en . Thif f '^ "°^'"S
«oop, and even tocreep on a'll fn ['" y"" '«
''«je paffages which are left cof"/ '^°"Sh the
"nd then you cannot be car 'fS '° "'t ground,
vent a fnafce (of which ,h?/ ^"""S'^ ^o Pre-
from dartina into vo„. V '""e numbers here)

tr '^^ 'he'SeTo ouTl P'= '^^''^ °f *hi
'»"h«. It is quite ":°"'/V;"= young rofe-

the fpines ; fo ?ba , ft "* '™°°''' between

be alind'of^hor: bl""r ^""''^ '^^e it to
deftitute of leaves ' """'"' ^^en it is

focke-'d with inn'umeTaM'^r °"'^ "-« »°-

'---.e others. They i^-dil^'-^

great ^

f 1 ;' ■ f a!

■ llljlMi i ' I'ilf'i

.i-

I; i'.

.1.

'

'!

1: i

Id

42

May ly^g,

v,«

H 'i

great white webs, between the branches of the
trees, (o that they were perceptible, even at a
diHancej in each of thcic- webs were thoufands
of Caterpillars, which crept out of them after-,
wards, and fpread chiefly upon the apple-trees.
They confumed the leaves, and often left not
one on a whole branch. I was told, that fome
years ago they did fo much damage, that the
apple-trees and peach-trees hardly bore any
fruit at all ; becaufe they had confumtd all the
leaves, and expofed the naked trees to the in-,
lenfe heat of the fun, by which means feveral
of the trees died. The people took the follow-
ing method of killing thefe C^/dT^/Z/^rj- ; They
fixed fome flraw or flax on a pole, fet it on fire,
and held it under the web or nefls ; by which
a part was burnt, and a part fell to the ground.
However, numbers of the Caterpillars crept
up Jie trees again^, which could have been pre-
vented, if ihey had been trod upon, or killed
any other way. I called chickens to fuch plates
where they crept on the ground in numbers ^
but they would not eat them. Nor did the
wild birds like them ; for the trees were full of
thefe webs, though whole flights of little birds
had their nefts in the gardens and orchards.

May J 8th. Though it was already pretty
late in May, yet the nights were very dark here.
About an hour after fun-fet, it was fo dark,
that it was impoflible to read in a book, though
the type was ever fo large. About ten o'clock,
en a clear night, the dark was fo much increafed,
that it looked like one of the daikcfl; flar-lighc
nights in autumn, in Swede?].. It likewife
' - * fcemed

fpcmed f

y^i the (

do in S

fiights ar

vyith clo

dark and

tiherefore

to travel i

nor horfe

genera), \

parifon tc

of Swedci

(i^'ink High

have their

matter to

ifs peculiar

advantages

places, Sw,

to any of rh

J WILL \

^weden is t

Und why J r

The nigh

^^nd in wint

Marker, than

l^^ere h no ki

km a very fa

pn Aurora i

^ear. The

jmake th^ ni

pore fafe an

Nuently as

hw which

New Jerfey, R^,^^^^^

f.'ghts are commonly dart , / u '. "'"^' '^^^
vyith clouds; I coL ' ' '"'^ '^^ % covered
riark and cloudy sleL^^"' ."^^'n °nly to

'0 travel in f„,h cloudyl'ts'";' "^''■'^^"''
nor horfe could find their wa'!' ^°:"«'ther ma„
general, feem very difaPr.lM . "'«'''''■ '"
par-fon to the light and^^lo °r ""'' '" ^o'""

of Swe^,„. jfj^^ g^nous fummer nights

'^'■nk flightly olour countrrTorh '"^'^^ "^
have their advantaees sTS ■ °^^^' countries

!»a.terto boaft o/on thrSj' "°' f "^"""e of
'ts peculiar advanta^ TnH " ''''^""''"c has

t«""g« and fnco'nveni.^°" '"''^'''"S "'^
places, 5..v^« wi] he ?ou"h "'"^ "^ '^'^"""
'0 any of them. """^ '° ''^ "O' inferior

^i"s pJfSarrrti" ^•'^'p-^^ i .hink

»"d -hy I prefer o;:;:,:^r,r;^ °f/--.V..

The n ghts are v^.,, T , , ^^^ Sweden.
•'"' in winte.heTLel^"'"""^^ '""■»'"«'•;

M». than 'the'^JinT^r 2 Ssl'/^ '' "°'
'here IS no kind of ^«ror^ of , " SweJen y for
,S''^a very faint li^T uf/''^''- ^"'^ 'he ftars
h ^«rora BoreJ/s 'appears "n""^ '"'"^^''^We if
)'^^- The winters hefe brin!""' Z '^'^« «
Hke the nights dear and 2 "f ^"'"^' '°
hfe fafe and eafy Th. ,1^^^" "-awllin?
N"ently as i„te„fe a^ "„ ol 0"'^'^°"'"'=^
»ow which falls hes on Iv ,^1'^r'^''''- The

''^F goes off with a oreat'^r "/^'' *"'* ^'-

a j,fcat deal of wet. The

Rati/e-

m
ml

1

{

I

..

."!

iffl ■

f 1= :

1;t

f!f '■

' ' f ' f

i(r J

Jl?

r

1^1

r '' 'i-

' '\

liifa

m

«'!

II

\lrM]^

I; fiM.

PpnR 1

i
i

\\

^^H|

'

1

1
1

1k

1^1

ttl

:|i

44

May 1749.

Jtattle-fnakest Horned-fnakes, red-bellied, green,
and other poifonous Snakes^ againft whofe bite
there is frequently no remedy, are in great
plenty here. To thcfe I muft add the wood-
lice, with which the forells are fo peftered,
that it is inopofTible to pafs through a bufli with-
out having a whole army of them on your
cloaths, or to fit down, though the place be
ever fo pleafant. The weather is fo inconftant
here, tha- when a day is moft exceffivcly jiot,
the next is often fenfibly cold. This fuddcn
change often happens in one day; and few
people can fufFer thefe changes, without im-
pairing their health, The heat in fummcr is
cxcefBve, and the cold in winter often very
piercing, but may be guarded againft. But
when the great heat endures long, there is
hardly any remedy for it. -It has frequently
happened, that people who walked into the
fields, dropped down dead, on account of the
violence of the heat, Several diftempers prevail
here -, and they jncreafe every year. Nobody is
left unattacked by the intermitting fever; and
many people are forced to fufFer it every year,
together with other difeafes. Pcafe cannot be
fown, on account of the infedts which confume
them*. There are worms in the grains of rye,
and numbers of them are in the cherry-trees
The Caterpillars often eat all the leaves from
the trees, lb that they cap not bear fruit in that
year; and numbers di« every year, both of fruit-
trees and foreft- ;rees. The grafs in the mea-

dows IS

and otl

fore the

rot nej

The ho

dows ar

The pai

fuch pla

are com

ficult to

the trees

foil is ex

forced, d

of the fu

branches

leaves :

milk, ar

The houj

tations.

throw trc

houfes, ai

of thefe i

art; but

tion, or

Thus evej

defeds; J

with his o

The ry(

which is

agriculture

which are j

inhabitants
fields, wh
turies toge

dows

^ew Jerfey, Raccoon. ^.

tTl ^'K'^'-' ~'"""™"='^ ^y » kind of worms
and other fpcc.es caufe the plumbs to droD hi
fore they are half ripe. The oak Lrl fff !"
not near fo good tim'^ber as the 14" ^^f
The houfes are of no long duration TK
dows are poor, and what'gr^fi I",; haTe s":^-
The pafture for cattle in the forcfts confiL of
fuch plants as they do not like, and whTch thev
r """Pfllfd to eat by neceiEty , foT i is di7

foil isT^cSn^ ^^^t^t'^rLr^'tt^'-f *^
fo;ced during almoft the ;ro£\itr"tm

The h r a J-;^^:,/-ve^^^^^^^

rations. Hurricanes are frei.iPnf ,«u- i!
throw frppc rsr. frequent, which over-

with his cS^,- C^ ''^° "" *=°"'«' himfclf

very

R'

1 ,;; ;i

iiifl- ' r

i

<, ■! i!

'Fr ii

I

'M

•i Ml

f :''

'If : V

'til kM' !::

46

May 1749;

( I

very fine foil, they ufe it as fuch, as long as h
will bear any corn ; and when it ceafes to bca'r
any, they turn it into paftures ftor the cattle,
and take new corn-fields in another phce,'
where a fine foil can be met with, and where it
has^ never been made ufe of for this purpofe.
This kind of agriculture will do for fome time;*
but it will afterwards have bad confequences, as
every one may clearly fee. A few of the inha-
bitants, however, treated their fields a little
better: the Englijh in general have carried
agriculture to a higher degree of perfe^ion than
any other nation. But the depth and riches of
the foil, which thofe found here who came
over from England, (as they were preparing
land for ploughing which had been Covered
with woods from times immemorial) mifled
them, and made them carelefs hufbandmen.
It is well known, that the hidiafis lived in this
country for feveral centuries before the Eurd-
pcans czir\^ into it 5 but it is likevvife known,
that they lived chiefly by hunting and fi(hin<y[
and had hardly any fields. They planted mai2,
and feme fpecies of beans and gourds; and at
the fame time it is certain, that a plantation of
fuch vegetables as ferve an Lid'um family during
one year, take up no more ground than a farmer
in our country takes to plant cabbage for his fa-
mily upon J at leaft, a farmer's cabbage and
turnip ground, taken together,- is always as
extenfive, if not more fo, than the corn-fields
and kitchen-gardens of an Indian family.
Therefore, the Lidians could hardly fubfifl for
one month upon the produce of their gardens

and

and fiel

Indians
tant fro
judge, h
for corn
thick an
(as is ye
one had
pieces aj
able, w]
rcmalnet
confidera
Europeai
fine loil t
trees as tl
thing to
up in he;
They c(
pfoughint
f^^iy; anc
moH: pier
getting a
other Eiir
adopt the
the Indian
tivated irr

o

crop with
pad u res aj
to i.\\it \n
fince time
have been
^mcQ the cf
^•hy agrjci
ufeful bfar

and

New Jerfey, Raccoon, ' ^^

and fields. Commonly, the little villam of

thick .„d „i „TJ 1, 5",r' Vf"" "'"''

{ ' r W "^"^ tnouph thev cIporf.ri

p uo juc to cut down the wood n.if .v
I'P in heaps, snd to clear ^w^ a j i ' ^^^ ^^
They coild .htr £LJ; , .-"^ '^ ri'

moft plentiful hS T is e"; t^h^^ '.
getting a rich crop has fpo edthe P r/^ "1

'ivated grounds, as !ong\s tVill 01"''"''
crop without manuring: bu to r^i fh •' '
paftures as foon as thef can b° " ™ '"'5

to t.ke in hand new Ibc^s of „ "° T^' =""^

oranch. .s fo .mperfcd here, th« one

can

!f; ii^

1

i

li

1

)

^!^ ■ h

> ■

1

,' ^

48

Jl% ^749,

;i

can learn nothing in a great trad of land^
neither of the En^lijlj, nor of the Swedes^ Ger-
tnansy Dutch, and French -, except that, from
their grofs miftakes and carclclfnefs for futurity,
one finds opportunities tvtry day of making all
forts of obftrvationf, and of growing wife at the
oxpence of other people. In a word, the corn-
fields, the meadows, the forefls, the cattle, &c.
are treated with great carelefTnefs by the inha-
bitants. We can hardly be more laviflj of our
woods ill 6wedm and Finland than they are
here : their ej/es are fixed upon the prefent gain,
and they are blind to futurity. Every day their
cattle are harraffed by labour, and each genera-
tion decreafes in goodnefs and fize, by being
kept (hort of food, as I have before mentioned.
On my travels in this country I obferved feveral
plants, which the horfes and cows preferred to
all others. They were wild in this country,
and like wife grew well on the driefl and pooreft
ground, where no other plants would fuccecd.
But the inhabitants did not know how to turn
this to their advantage j owing to the little ac-
count made of Natural Hiftory, that fciencc
being here (as in other parts of the world)
looked upon as a mere trifle, and the paftime of
fools. I am certain, and my certainty is founded
upon experience^ that by mean of thefe plants,
in the fpace of a few years, I have been able to
turn the -pooreft ground, which would hardly
afford food for a cow, into the richeft and moil
fertile meadow, where great flocks of cattle
have found fuperfluous food, and are grown
fat upon. I own, that thefe ufeful plants were

not

not to I

but wit

tnan w

where t

when I

of tht

perceive

Jenr plan

only req

a nee froi

every wj

Creator j

incnt, or

I HAVI
'"ay perh
the bad i
every part
cd to (he

the feverai
however d(
or two fkiJ
fcarce.

Birds ol

found in ai

plentiful tl

liberty here

"lany places

awares upor

of prey it is

confifl of go

in fliade. ^3

New Jer/iy. Raccoon. .-

not to be found on the op«,.nj c
""t with a fma^"flLe^;^ntr:l^^P'r'"'
ni_an would eafijy collefl .^ ■ '"^'"'S'' »
where ,hcy were Vbe tt f '" *^ P'""*
when I heard the co„nf ^'^ "fton.flied.

of <he badneft of Z I ^''^'^ ^'""P'^-'nng
perceived the n^Lin?:""^'^]'^' ^ likcwi.f
ienf plants grow"!!!!,?. ■ "'"' ♦^^"=" ^-w excel-
only requirfdr f.^ °*" ^^'■°""'^'' ^''l'i^l>

ar^^iiv"7oXr/o?s

ed to ftew the reX I' V'''''''"'' '"'^"d-
•hinly /locked wLh ^^ ■""' J°"^"''' '^ ^o

.^e fevera^tt^he's ThXnir;'^^"7" ^"
however deny thaf T k, ""^'^""'^y^ i do not

or two ikilj'io llYft/ buTr " '°""' °"«
fcarce. ""«ii5, out they were very

plentiful than in SwJln t/ ^ '-^'^ "'°^*'

«'>«ty here, as therTte' fti^ '^ '"'">' #^'"
many places fromTt, ! ^--eat lorefts in

aware/upon'chickenr, ."!f "?'>' "" ^'^"'^ """
of prey it fs aui^ wl?^ '^"'''^'- ^o the birds

^n fl'ade. ^It n^hM '"', P^°'''^'=^ '''^X "^^
*r '-'..-^t nignt the owl.^. mhi^u .-_ -^
VOL. if " r> " ' "^'"i^-ij uic very

iiurac-

i ,

'I

M ;

' I

te^^

«♦

I

'1

5^

May^ij/^r),

Dumcrous, endanger the fafcty of the tame
fov/ls. They live chiefly in niarfhes, give a
difagreeable (hriek at night, and attack the
chickens, which commonly rooft at night in the
apple-trees, peach-trees, and cherry trees, in
the garden. But fince they arc very bufy in
clearing this country of woods, as we are in
Sweden and Finland, it may be of ufe for ex-
pofing the birds 'of prey, more than they are
now, and for depriving them of the opportunities
of doing mifchicf with fo much eafe.

The thick forefts of America contain num-
bers of ftags ; they do not feem to be a different
i'pecies from the European (lags. An EngHjJo-
wan was pofTefled of a tame hind. It is oblerv-
able that though thefe creatures are very (liy
when wild in the woods and tedar fwamps,
which are very much frequented by them, yet
they can be tamed to fuch a degree, if taken
young, that they will come of their own accord
to feck for food : This hind was caught when
it was but very little ; the colour of the whole
body was a dirty reddifh brown, the belly and
the under fide of the tail excepted, which were
white J the ears were grey ; the head, towards
the fnout, was very narrow, but upon the
whole the creature looked very fine. The hair
lay clofe together, and was quite fhort ; the tail
reached almofi: to the bend of the knee, near
which, on the infide of each hind-foot, was a
knob or callus ». The pofTefTor of the hind faid,
that he had tamed feveral flags, by catching
them whilfl they were very young. It was
jnow big with young ones. It had a little:

its neck._ that bv walkin?!

beil hun? about

the w
and u

t0£^O

woulc

leap o

wentf

a nigh

like otl

^t Was

decoyei

cially ji

rous Of

almofl i

when ii

faw it

though .

they coi

As Toon

^^^^y maJ

^'nh coi

out into

pwn fooi

Jt was nc

eat clover

^eda panic

Jt was ]jk

common n

vera! othe

ioid /lags

thern as c

twenty-fivt

piece for ti:

W'hich cor

^ecember^

m

J«P over the higheren^^'''^ ''^' "' *' could
'-^"t far into .he wood, ""■''''■ ^'"«™« '>
!'ke other cuttle When t : ."^'"^"^d h"-"*

decoyed them even dh^ '''^' «»gS and
^''"y in rutting time 1,! '''^ ''""'"• e%-
7"» opportunities of T'"? "%'"'^'*" "un'.e-
^V°ft « ''is door. Lri"^ "'" ""^ '^^S'.
,^'>en it was turned tovvtl T^ '"'^^"^' ^"d
'^w 't riling md I.T- '''^ "''"'J. I often

'hough I did^not ?ee ^nl'r^ T'"'*^ "'at pl^
'hey commonly ppea2 "^^ °" "'^ -^-d.' bu
As foon as the wildTal Lve^h' .'" ''""^ '"^'er. ■
'hey make off. l„ S„ 7h '^f' °^^ '"«".
W"h corn and hayT bu n' T' ^"^ '^' hind
°"f "nto the woods and J. /"""^'^ '' ^ent
°'^n food, eating both ^.T:,'"' /"'"'^'^'"g ''«
« was now kept in , ^ I ""^ "'her plants •
eat clover. theTa e, oS°" '' '^ ''''^ chiefly

" was hkewife contented w rh T', '"'''''''''*'''■
common plantane. or i!' 'he leaves of the
'[eral other plants Th? iV^''"^"^' ^nd fe-
'°'d %s to'people ^ p!^-^'1°^°^ 'his bind

hem as curiofities to oSi t^'"'' "^'^ ^ent
twenty-fi.e, th.Vey." "'''^^ P'^«-«. He got
P'ece for them In fh " i ">' '^''''n^s a-

^hich comn^ „c d 'fc, °? ='"^' ^-= winter.

^ I <r\\\aA

uuu

iu me thir-

^*

1 1(1

i •.1.

Ill

52

May ij^g*

! i

teentli of March, old ftile, during the courfc
of which there fell a great quantity of fnow,
the flags were found dead in the fnow, but
chiefly higher up the country, where the fnow
was deeper. Nobody could determine whether
their death was the confequence of the great
quantity and depth of fnow, which hindered
their getting out, or whether the froft had been
too fcvere, and of too long duration, or whe-
ther they were (hort of food. The old people
likevvife relate, that vafl: numbers of flags came
down in the year J 705, when there was a
heavy fall of fnow, near a yard deep, and that
they were afterwards found dead in the woods,
in great numbers, hecaufe the fnow was deeper
than they could pafs through. Numbers of
Birds were likewife found dead at that time.
in that fame winter, a flag came to Matfcng
into the flables, and eat hay together w^ith the
cattle. It was fo pinched by hunger, that it grew
tame immediately, and did not run away from
people. It afterwards continued in the houfe,
SIS another tame creature. All aged perfons
alferted, that formerly this country abounded
more with flags than it does at prefcnt. It was
formerly not uncomnr»on to fee thirty or forty
of them in a flock together. The reafon of their
decreafe is chiefly owing to the increafe of po-
pulation, the deflru^tion of the woods, and the
mimber of people who kill and frighten the flags
at prefent. However, high up in the country, in
great forefts and defarts, there are yet great
numbers of them. Among their enemies is the
hynx of this country, which is the fame with

the

the
and
upof
b]oo(
I
hills
were
they
and ^
worm
dung
thro'
road,
Thefe
infe(5ls
Cicudci
monly
infcdts,
May
a parifl
which
in orde
1 firft j

vifeable
and hai
know vv

* Wargl
lynx, the 01
Kaft'o, or c
Call the forr
is the bige
on its back
the latter is
wiih more i\

n

New Jerfcy, Raccoon.

the Swedifh one* Thp,r ^i; u

and when' the fta^s p^^ CL^V^" T'''
upon him tref fort f ij -I'- '"'y '^''•' ''own

bloodJ;d;e1.e gfeo'cMill r ^"'' ["f,"^ "^«
werermmr !i ' ^*"°''' grounds; tht-v

worms, which are ide ."fe t ;nSn/ ^Th'
dung beetles had dug verv deer, infl^rK^" ^^^
thro' horfe-duns tho' Tr I, '^ t.^^«'°""'''

road, fo that a f eat hean IT °", '^' ^"'^^'^
Thefe holes w=-!Tf ''"P °'^ ^^--''^ '^y "ear it.

infers efneckilv J Tk"^' °''"P''^'' ^^ °'h<r
monly found one 5^ '^^ ''°'" "P- 'eom-

a Parifh in the country cailedVL- c T"'"' ^
which is vet chi^fl,, : ^ u . f '"^'''''''^^"' ^nd
To ^,A ' cliieHy inhabited by SweA-, ir.
in order to nrnrp^ri ;« , ■' "*^^"'-f> in

* fTar^/o; FdlsUnxlAnn. The 9.,.V,
lynx, the one is called the llKr^^r L fl "''"'^°" ^'^''^ ^inds of
Kattlo, or cat.iynx The r , ^^ ' f^'^'^y^'^. and the other the
call the for.erV:/.-./Jl: ^T^X^^l^^Z r'"?'^"' -^
»^ the b.ggeft, of a brown,/h red miv / fK^"'^"' ''^^ ^«'•"'^•■
on Its back, and white toward? rL I ^f '^^ ^'^^ ^"^ ^vh.te.
the latter is fnuIierAndTas - I.! ^""^' ^'^^ ''^^'^vni/h Tpor. :
wiih more /pot^. F. ' " " " ''^"^'''^ *=* "^^'^e uiucc; ^,,4

llr,, !

1( ^ ^ '

1 1? i f

i

f - '

■1

* ■

P-\

(

Ul

1 ':' I

,11: ■' 'i

'w

au-

I f

'54

5^. J

lal pi:

May 1749.

ire different from the vernal

autumn;

ones. '1 ne t:iweaes nagi tnis winter told me the
ceconomical and medical ufes of many plants,
to which they gave names unknown to me :
they could not then (hew me thofe plants on
account of the feafon, and by their deficient and
erroneous defcriptions, I was not able to guefs
what plants they meant. By going away fo
early as the beginning of April, I would have
remained in uncertainty in regard to theic
things. It was therefore fit, that I (liould
fpend a part of the fpring at Raccoon, efpecially
as I had fiill time enough left for my tour to
the North.

On the road we faw a Black Snake, which we
killed, and found jufl: five feet long. Catejhy
has dcfcribed it and its qualities, and alfo drawn
it *. The full-grown Black Snakes are com-
monly about five feet long, but very flenderj
the thicked I ever faw was in the broadeft part
hardly thr e inches thick ; the back is black,
fliining, and fmooth j the chm white and
fmooth ; the belly whitilh turning into blue,
(hining, and very fmooth; I believe there are
fome varieties of this fnake. One which was
nineteen inches long, had an hundred and eighty-
fix fcales on the belly, f Scuta Abdominalia) and
ninety-two half fcales on the tail (Squamce
fnbcaudaLs), which I found to be true, by a
repeated counting of the fcales. Another, which
was feventten inches and a hr.lf in length,
had a hundred and eighty-four fcales on the

* A' PUIS KiPtr^ See Cat^f/jv*i Nat. Hill:, of CaroL ii= t-. 48=

belly, J

this I

the fc£

end of

wound

The

They i

(pring,

weathei

after th

torpid 0

in this

in lefs t

happene

very wai

habitatic

end of it:

This
are to b
that a dc
almoft in
fued : bu
nor any \\

f It has i

cbara<fter enij

fpecies of fnal

or their Squ::K

/jjecies, fo tli

the whole nu

fpecies J care

hy any accide

in which cafe,

chamder is nc

neither are the

conflant ; and

than none at al

cfatilmals maj

belly,

^i

New Jerfey, Raccoon. j^

S,wT^°"-? fi^ty-four half fcaleson the tail •
tfcis I likewife affured mvfelf of h, .„ . '
the fcales over a^ain I, "l \u counting
-dofthisIaftVal". "tai V,^f ^ t'' ^
wound healed up again f. * '"'^ ''^'

The country abounds with Black Snakes
1^1 "nd""f "^ ''"' ""^ "^^-^ -"- olu in

wS/ ppts" i^uTif ir^' "'^ f. ---

aftfr fh^f .F ' . " fi™^' CO d again
atler that, they are quite frozen, and Jie ftiffanH
.orp.d on the ground or on the ce, when t^keJ
;n th,s fta.e and put before a fire They revte
in lefs than an hour's time Tt hL r ■
happened, when the Cnin/o/ 4™: is'

h:b^ta;^™' '^'^^y ^°- °-^°f "^er:i^

are'^.^o V.' '^ ^r'^'^ °^ "" '^« f^^-k" which
are to be found here, for it moves fo quirk

that a dog can haraly catch it. It is therefor;

a nu,ft tmpofllble for'a man to efcpe i if pur!

nor any way dangerous ; many people have been

or their S,..„.r M^^^.^Jl^.^ Pr^'/wt''" ^f r'"'-'
'pKies, fo that offcn the difti ™/ '^ ""''" °' '"'= ''™-
the whole number of t e f™ 'f ^;;ir"\"1 '" '" '"• ""■■= =

by any accident Save "olu,; ,i a'n'd'ha.'ir b " '"'" "'^ ■"'"
.0 wh,ch cafe, it U impollibic- to , ,akc . l of h f "'^"^ •'S"'' *
character is no, quite ,„ ^ood lni7c;fnr )^ "l'""\'- . ''''=
tie.ther are the ma.ks taken from co o, ft ' "7-''' "f '^''' "^^
cooftant; aodfoitisbciterin n-^ 'r"^ •• ""P"' *••':• 9" te

than none at ail. Tim" a ,d o "t "* ""^ '"''■"«=« '^'^'"«''=.-.
- ---u.. „ay p^taps ciear .,, th«r naura ch.racie;;. "T

E 4

bit

H,

i

; 1

^■!/:

! r

1

1

1 :

1 ;
i ,

H«

1:1

Hi

5$

May 1749 •

■1

bit by It in the woods, and have fcarce felt any
more inconvenience than if they had been wound*
ed by a knife; the wounded place only remains
painful for fome time. The Black Snakes fel-
dom do any harm, except in fpring, when they
copulate 5 at which ;imc, ifdifturbed, they will
attack the perfon that difturbs them. I am
acquainted with fevcral people, who have on
fuch an occafion run fo hard as to be quite .out
of breath, in endeavouring to efcapc the fnake,
which moved with the fwiftnefs of an arrow af-
ter them. If a perfon thus purfued can mufter
up courage enough to oppofe the fnake with a
ftick or any thing elfe, when it is either paffed
by him, or when he fleps a(ide to avoid it, it will
turn back again, and fcek a refuge in its fwift-
nefs. I have been afuired by feveral, that when
it overtakes a perfon, who has tried to efcape it,
aod who has not courage enough to oppofe it,
it winds round his feet, fo as to make him fall
down ; it then bites him feveral times in the leg,
or whatever part it can get hold of, an J goes off
again. I {hall mention two circumftances,
which confurn what I have faid. During my
ftay in New York, Dr. Golden told me, that in
the ipring, 1748, he had feveral workmen at
his country feat, and among them one lately ar-
rived from Europe^ who of courfe knew very
little of the qualities of the Black Snake. The
other workmen feeing a great Black Snake copu-
iatino with its female, engaged the new comer
to go aod kill it, which he intended to do with
a little ilick. But on approaching the place
where the ihakc^s lay, they perceived him, and

the

the mai
purfue
little es

he was :
\)\my an
threw h
out of 1
fnake, t
in two o
were rej
it, witho
Many pe
which ha
of town
girJs, attc
^n the wc
funning a
Black Sna
under her

fothatfhe
hy htv fri|
fnake cauli

^fir, on m

lady to he

and really

body as clo

to tear it j

gifl came t(

gr*-'at an ai

Tiot hear the

of a confum

^^\^ fnake i;

Mck people.

the mal(

t^ew Jer/ey, Raccoon.
great

17

wrath
. ue the fellow with a.Z,':" "7 .?"*'"« to
little expcaed fuch otarin ^./r/'".'''^ ^ he
fl'ngmg away his flick- bein . '""''*' ""<»
he was able/ The tke ^ ° hi" " '^^
him, and twiftino fever J t:!^ ' ""ertook

threw him dow^^ and l" ^ '^"""^ ^^' f««.
out of his fcnft"'. he coni!. ''"''* ^''^ ^'«°ft
fnake. till he ook a k„°f "!' «" "'^ °^ '^"^
in two or three pll«"Th'"'' f"' " ''^'•^"gh
were rejoiced at^^ his iiX '"'r'', ^°^'^'«en
it. without offering to he, .k"'^ ^'"^''^'^ «
Many people at J^t^ tL/'f ""P^t°-
which happened to a yourjla^v 1 '''"^'"
of town in fammer/to. fher wiX ^ "''"' ?"
girls, attended by her nil i, ""^"^ "'^w

- the wood, inaVa wiT.hfj/- '^r"
running about anH K«f ^ ^'"^^s where

Black fnake bd"diS:,*^«'- ='"*^^' »
underherpetticoafs and ,<»"!.'" '""°"«- ^an
fo that fhe ^ftll bacWai 7* r '°""^ *""• ^="ft
by her fright, or by the V„ '^T" °«afioned
rnake caulld. The „'„ ""'P'''^°" ^^^''^h the
[--peftir^g that a BiacSak7:-t '1 ^"' '""^
her, on Slaking ufb of a r5 .'^^' ^"'"^'^ ''"^^
Jady to herfelf^ag fn he Ii7, J"*^ l^ """'"S •'"'^
and really found the „v "^ h'"- "^'oaths,

bodyascK Jol',; t --d ^^out h.'r

to tear it away and ,l' r ^2"^° ^«s not able
gi'l c.n,e to hT/fdf i i'^t'f ^^"' ". and the
grcMt an averfion to^the 'ne, '^\~"r ^=d fo
not hear the iigh? of him T°' '^f' '^=^°»ld
ofaconfumptiS At o^h '•'^'''''' ^"'^ died
•his fnake JZ": -_7. °'^^' '""« of the year

Mck

people. Ho

we

vvay, than to at-.
'^er I have heard ii aiTerted

frequently,

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May 1749.

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frequently, that tvtci in fummer when its time
of copulation is paft, it purfues people, efpecially
children, if it finds that they are afraid and run
from her. Several people likewife aflured me
from their own experience, that it may be pro-
voked to purfue people, if they throw at it, and
then run away. I cannot well doubt of this,
as I have heard it faid by numbers of creditable
people ; but though I wanted to try the experi*
ment I could never fucceed in provoking them.

Moft of the people in this country afcribed
to this fnake a power of fafcinating birds and
fquirrels, as I have defcribed in feveral parts of
my Journal. When the fnake lies under a tree,
and has fixed his eyes on a bird or fquirrcl
above ; it obliges them to come down, and to go
diredlly into its mouth. I cannot account for
this, for I never faw it done. However, I have
a lift of more than twenty perfons, among which
are fome of the moft creditable people, who
have all unanimoufly, though living far diftant
from each other, afierted the fame thing -, they
afluredme upon their honour, that they have feen
(at feveral times) thefe Black Snakes fafcinating
fquirrels and birds which fat on the tops of trees,
the fnake lying at the foot of the tree, with its
eyes fixed upon the bird or fquirrel, which fits
above it, and uucrs a doleful notej from which
it is eafy to conclude with certainty that it is
about to be fafcinated, though you cannot fee it.
The bird or fquirrel runs up and down along
the tree continuing its plaintive fong, and alw<iys
comes nearer the fnake, whofe eyes are unalter-
ably fixed upon it. It ftiould feem as if thefe

poor

poor en
by hopf
appears
they are
they tui
enemy,
its mouti
pofe. ^
tinually
woods oj
wait for \
creatures
that this
that the
from the
lies quiet,
ture has b
feels pain
it will at
mouth. 1
fioned by
wound gkV
be objeded
not poifonc
if the fnak
or fquirrel
eafily keep
with poultr
it. But th
tills interpr
which I rec
pie, who hj
rel being uj

\n^]rt**c ^-^

JV-m Jerfey, Raccoon. ^^

poor creatures endeavoured to efcai>e tJ,^ f ,r
by bopping or running up he tre^. t, k "'

creatures a mortal hJf^ -t^^ ^ c "^^^ P°°^
♦J,^.. ^u- *."'""3' Dite. Therefore it fp^r^fc

Jro. the fnake: wteh'lf rr :f Kte^-"^
■es qu,ef be.ng affured .hat .he wounded crea

h trrt tThfoC tr/oi': d'r ^-"^ '^«

mouth. The Plaintife no-e .^n T '"'° '"
fioned by the Lutenefs of the paTn XhT

-stiSv^rre-of^h^HE?"

pie, wjio have alTured me of i*f tu-. r •

ipectators have not b

een
able

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May 1749.

able to let it come that pitch, but killed the
fnake, and as foon as it had got a mortal blow,
the fquirrel or bird deftined for deftrudtion,
flew away, and left off their moanful note, as if
they had broke loofe from a net. Some fay, that
if they only touched the fnake, fo as to draw off
its attention from the fquirrel, it went off quick-
ly, not flopping till it had got to a great dillancc.
Why do the fquirrels or birds go away fo fud-
denly, and why no fooner ? If they had been
poifoned or bitten by the fnakfS before, fo as not
to be able to get from the tree, and to be forced
to approach the fnake always more and more,
they could however not get new ftrength by
the fnake being either killed or diverted. There-
fore, it feems that they are only enchanied,
whilfl the fnake has its eyes fixed on them,
However, this looks odd and unaccountable,
though many of the worthiefl and mod reputa-
ble people have related it, and though it is fo
univerfally believed here, that to doubt it would
be to expofe one's felf to general laughter.

The black fnakes kill the fmaller fpecies of
frogs, and eat them. If they get at eggs of
poultry, or of other birds, they make holes in
them, and fuck the contents. When the hens
are fitting on the eggs, they creep into the neft,
wind round the birds, (lifle them, and fuck the
eggs. Mr. Bartram afferted, that he had often
iQQn this fnake creep up into the tailed: trees,
after bird's eggs, or young birds, always with
the head foremofl, when defcending. A Swedi
told me, that a black fnake had once got the head
of one of his hens in its mouth, and was wound

feveral

New Jerfey, Raccoon. 6i

fcveral times round the body, when he came
and killed the fnake. The hen was afterwards
as well as ever.

This fnake is very greedy of milk, and it li
difficult to keep It out, when it is once ufed to
go into a cellar where milk is kept. It has been
fcen eating milk out of the fame difli with chil-
dren, without biting them, though they often
gave It blows with the fpoon upon the head,
when It was over-greedy. I never heard it hifs^
mg. It can raife more than one half of its bo-
dy from the ground, in order to look about her.
It ikins every year ^ and its ikin is faid to be a
remedy againft the cramp, if continually worn
about the body. •'/'"*

The rye was now beginning to flower.

I have often obferved with aftonifhrnent, on
my travels, the great difference between the
plants and the foil, on the two oppofite banks
ot brooks. Sometimes a brjok, which one can
Itride over, has plants on one bank widely dif-
ferent from thofe on the oppofite bank. There-
fore, whenever I came to a great brook or a ri-
ver I expecfled to find plants which I had not met
with betore. Their feeds are carried down with
the ftream from diftant parts. The foil is like-
wife very often different on the different fides of
a rivulet, being rich and fertile on the one, and
dry, barren, and [undy on the other. But a
great river can make Ml greater differences.
Thus we lee the great difparity between the pro-
vince oJPenJyhania, and New Jerfey, which
arc only divided by the river Delaware. In
^enfyhama the foil confifts of a mould mixed

with

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May, 1749,

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with fand and clay, and is very rich and fertile:
and in the woods which are higher in the coun-
try, the ground is mountainous and flony. On
the other hand, in the province of New Jerfev,
the foil is poor and dry, and not very fertile'
ibme parts excepted. You can hardly find a
flone in N^w Jerjeyy and much lefs mountains.
In Penfyhama you fcarce ever fee a fir-tree, and
in New Jerfey are whole woods of it.
• This evening I arrived at Philadelphia,

May 22d. The Jocufts began to creep out
of their holes in the ground laft night, and con-
tmued to do fo to-day. As foon as their winces
were dry, they began their fong, which is almoll
iufficient to make one deaf, when travelling
through the woods. This year there was an
immenfe number of them.

May 25th. The tulip-tree ( Liriodendron
tuhpijeraj was now in lull blofTom. The
iiowers have a refemblance to tulips, and look
very fine, and though they have not a very
agreeable fmell, yet the eye is pleafed to fee
trees as tall as full«grown oaks, covered with
tulip-like flowers.

Cm the flowers of the tulip-tree was an olive-
coloured Chafer (Scarabceus) without horns
{viuttciis) the future and borders of his win^-
ihells [Elytra) were black, and his thighs brown.
I cannot with certainty fay whether they colled-
cd the pollen of the flower, or whether they
coupled. Later in fummer, I faw the fame kind
of beetles make deep holes into the ripe mul-
berries, either to eat them, or to lay their eggs
m them. I likewife found them abundant in

I the

the lea

tree.

The
hills.

The

cherries

to fatififj

ofthecJ

May ;

Travat,

evening

quite cl<

from th(

was quit

breeze.

perceived

woods to

in propoi

foon as i

by a viole

threw dov

a good wa

ral trees,

oi rain, w

every thinj

does are fr

lity of cool

a deal of d;

ed by thun

are pafTed 0

fore.

May 28t
ia full bloo

^ragrancy, \

the leaves of

tree.

hills.

The ftrawb

Penfyhank, PhiUdelphla. g.

le Magnolia, glauca, or beaver-

erries were now ripe on the

l^n .he rout^'we^'Stwnd-^Th??^
was quite cam nr,^ « vyuju. me air

^juiic caim, and we coulH nr»» r i
breeze Rm- ♦k ^^^^^uia not feel anv

woods to the fouth-wel^and whiT '" 'j"^

Ja proportion as .heXd 'cal'ta^^r^A'
loon as It was com»> n^ * " nearer. As

by a violentguft of wL ° wfA""-""^"'^^''
threw down tie weak" 'dot S ZZT''
a good W3y along with it. and5e"dow f ^e"

htyo c^oZtheair h"' ^"' ''^^ '''^l^-
a deal of dlmas' Th "°""=^^^' ^hey often do

ed by thitd h'hTni^rfrr"'^'"^"''-

-paiTed over, the i.^n^JJ,f°-y;J^y

inSfbbot 1::\^''^''t E^^^^a ..s no.
fr.r. "^'"^^v- Its flowers have a verv oleafanf
fragrancy. which refrefhes the travehe'rf •„ S

woods.

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

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Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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May 1749.

woods, cfpecially towards the cveolng. The
flowers of thw wild vine afterwards fupplicd the
place of thofe of the Magnolia. , Several other
flowers contribute likcwifc towards perfuming
the ambient air. ,; - v:-?>j

in flower. It grow^ chiefly on fendy heaths, or
on dry . poor grouad^> which: few other plants
will agree with ; it -is common in Ptnfylvam'a,
but particuUtly in New Jerfey, and the province
of New Torky it is fcaroe in Canada ; its leaves
ftay the wrnter j the flowers are a real orna-
ment to the woods; they grow in bunches like
crowns, and are of a fine lively purple colour ?
at the bottom is a circle of deep purple, and
within it a gfeyifli or whitilh colour. The
flowers grow as aforefaid, in bunches, round the
extremity of the flalk, and make it look like a
decorated pyramid* The Englijb at New York
call this plant the Dwarf LaureL Its qualities
are the fame witk thofe of the Kalmia latifolia
viz. that it kills flieep and other fe^r animals,
when they eat plentifully of it. I Ao not know
whether it is noxious to the greater cattle. It
is not of any known ufe, and only fcrvcs to at-
tra(5l the eye whilft in flowen^ -r-'^i'^^^ -»"

The Kalmia /tf/j/^/wr was likewife in full
bloflbmat prefent*v It rivals tbe preceding one,
in the beauty of its colour s yet though they
are confpicuous in regard to the colours and
ihape of their flowers, they are no ways re-
markable for fmell, fuch as the Magnolia is 5 for
they have little or no fmell at all. So equally
and juflly does nature diflribute her gifts ; no

part

^enfylvama, Philadelphia. g -

Nrt of tlie creation has them al! ..^K k. •
U a«d ..one is .bfolu V:^i;f flt s

io.^A • ^\r^ ? nambers from Eiifoi^ m \t^.„

already f« S^'in ^it^jTr^^"*'? T'
new comer,* in otdcr to wcIcomeXm 1 ° ^»
who had been convem^ '"^>^'rtcan Indmm,

likewife two ^.srxs^^^^/S^^tr-/"'

hat h^Ln T'^r ^^«"^«ftd with, thought
tnat they had plainly perceived a fimifaritv in

were t'hf ^ft -, f '^''' '''"'*' of'^/^^-z^^w
dant of\^^ '''1'^'''"' *'«' 'he fame defcen-

t" 3;tiaTc;'"Hf ^f"T-p'*^p^ y"

hem at dp" ^/'^^ ''^^^' ""^ =>= ^'^'-^ lac
them at Dr. PW/^'uo-day. They are white!

and

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May 1749-

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and tafte like common potatoes, but not quite
fo agreeable ; and I think it would not be worth
while to plant them in Sweden, though they
might bear the climate. The plant thefe roots
belong to is the Dtofcorea alata.

The inhabitants make plenty of cheefe. They
are not reckoned fo good as Englifi cheefe:
however, fome take them to be full as good
when old ; and fo they feemed to me. A man
from BoJIqji in Neiv-Efighvid told me, that they
made very good cheefe there : hut they take
care to keep the cattle from falt-water, efpeci-
ally thofe who live near the fea-coafts; for it
has been found, that the cheefe will not become
fo good when the cows graze near falt-water,
as it will when they have frelli water. This,
however, wants nearer examination, in my opi-
nion.

May 31/1. About noon I left Philadelphia,
and went on hoard a fmall yacht, which fails
continually up and down upon the river Dela-
ivare, between T^reiiton and Philadelphia. We
failed up the river with fair wind and weather.
Sturgeons leaped often a faihom into the air.
We faw them continuing this exercife all day,
till we came to T^renton, The banks on the
Pcnfyhoanian fide were low j and thofe on th3
New Jerfcy lide fbeep and fandy, but not very
high. On both fides were perceived forefls of
tall trees, with deciduous leaves.

During the courfe of this month, the fore-
noon was alv/ays calm ; bat immediately after
noon ir began to blow gently, and fometimes
pretty flron^ly. This morning was likevvife

fair;

AVa- Jerfiy, Burlhgton. ^7

fa^;r<^and;„ Che afternoon it was cloudy, but did

built ofZt' rt °^ ""'^ •''"• ^ g""'^ houfe

in bread li AK u""' "°^ d-^creafed vifibly
urcaatn. About three c^'tAmAr tU- c ^

we paired Burlin.ton ""' ^f'""°°'>

though they flood far diftant from each o her
The tovvn has a good fituation, fincc fhbs of

/^tlSe'^rih"'^ i,3 carrying o'n an'^eiten-'
Iv/I / ''^= P^°P"^tors of that place *
have granted >t great immunities, by which ,•« i,
'ncreafed fo as to fwallow all the tirade of 'he
-ijacent towns The houfe of the governor at
Bm-lmgton is but a fm.Il one: it is built .f
ftone. clofe by the river iide. and is fh 'Wft
bu Mmg m the town as you come from PhUa-
^^Ip/na. It iS obferved, that about thf Si

u^er^'at^r':: ''^'- 'f' '''' '»«''«"' -^ the h ^h
v^ater at Cape Hmbpen comes at nine o'clock

m^the mornmg, it will be at Chejler. on the ri.

ver Ddaware about ten minutes after one

twt?f ''/'''"fP^''^' «bout ten minutes afer
two o c^ock , and at Burlington, about ten mi-
nutes after three o'clock; for the tide in the^ -
ver Delaw.ire comes quite up to Trenton.

* William Pim, Ef^. and his heirs after him,

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The banks of the river were now chleffy
high and deep on the fide of New Jerjlyt eon-
ililing -pf; a pale brick-coloured foil. Or> the
J^enlfham^n fidcj they iwere gently Hoping, and
coniifttfdof:a blackifli rich mould, mixed with
pariicjes ^of GWmmtv (Mka). On the New
^frfcy fide appeared fome firs j but fcldom on
jhevx^ther,,, except jn a few places where they
were acqidcnt^Hy-, brought over from N^w
yerfey* :■■■.■.

, Towards night, after the ti<ie had begun to
ebb and the wind was quite fubfided, we could
not proceed, but dropped our anchor about feven
tniles from Tr^';?/.?//, and pafTcd the night there.
iThe woods were full ol Fireflies, (Lampyris)
which flew Uk^ fparks of fire between the trees,
and fomftimes acr^fsJthe river. In the marflies,
the Bullfrogs ^nqw and. then began their hideous
roaring i aod m^re than a hundred of them
roared togi^thcr*) Tht W/iif-poor- willy or Goat-
JuckeryVi^ likcyvi^^ heard every where.- ^£i h

yz^^v-ift- ^"^^ continued our voyage this
morning, after the rain vvas over. The .river
Delaware ,'^'3^^ vqry narrow here^ and the banks
th,e , fame ;. js we fby nd;- them y efte rd ay, after
w^ =had :pa_ffed J^uriington* , About eight o'clock
in the morning, we aJirived ■ at 'TrentoUy^ ^

June 2d. TH/s'rnyrping we lett Trentotiy
^nd proc<'eded. tpward^ New T^ork, The coun-
try 1 have defcribed before. The fields were
lown with whear^ rye, maize, oats, hemp, and
flax. In feverai places, wc faw very large pieces
of ground with hemp.

We
woods
grounc

but th
woods.
The
the fwa
fragran(
air, tbg
ed the
fliewcd
we oftei

the woe
flowers.
h occupi
dioica, c

and has
grows or

Meadow
met wit!
Bartfia cc
Monarda]
^ry, they
with the f
The S

woods, ar
The he

of them '

people bui;

^hich is h",

baking.

Nrnjerfey. Trentm.

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fragrancy of irt h^^ u '" '^"'^•^ and the
-fthaYo ou tirhb f'" ''"'""'^'^ ""=
fliewed that a^bwver ± uf"* '^'" "'^^^'''''^

flowers. t ™ il ft,i"; •H"'""' ^«h its red

i-ccupled ^ thl'li ^t;^,;--i",^7/^
dtowa, or r^ad Pat/Kfl "^V^arta m{\ Lychms

PW«...«to7growSftd ,r?'"P'°"' 'T''*
and has fine red aTdn^-r"^'"^" «''»'"'<'•

l^ows on Wtaltf :et 'r? ^
Meadow-pinks or T,,.l -J Europe the

wl^l^^ft^a-^-er ad.ne.

ofTh?.';tdef'1ro''^«'=f ''^ -;<= -ft .

people building "i,oJ"°"^ tt^^^'"' ""'

which is likewif^ r^nl^ > ■ "^ °^ •""« ^''y.

baking. ^aiployed In making ovens for

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Buckwheat was already coming up In feve-
ral places. We faw fingle plants of it all day \[\
the woods, and in the fields, but always by the
fide of the road; from whence it may be con-
cluded, that they fpring up from lull and Mat-
tered feeds.

Late this evening we arrived at New Briwf-.

June the 3d. At noon we went on board
a yacht bound for New Tork^ and failed down
the river, which had at firft prety high and deep
banks, of red fand-ftone^ on each fide, which
I have mentioned before. Now and then there
wasa farm-houfe on the high (liore. As we c?me
lower down, we faw on both fides great fields
and meadows, clofe up to the water. We could
not fail at random with the yacht ; for the tivcr
was often fliallow in fome places, and fome-
times in the very middle. For that purpofe,
the conrfe which we were to take vyas marked
out by branches with leaves on them. At lafl
we got into the fea, which bounded our prof-
ped on the fouth ; but on the other fide, we
were continually in fight of land at fome diftance.
On coming to the mouth of the river, we had
a choice of two roads to New York -y viz, either
within the Staten IJland, or without it. The
inhabitants are determined in their choice by
the weather; for when it is flormy and
cloudy, or dark, they do not venture to fail
without, where the fea itfelf communicates.
We took that courfe now, it being very pleafant
weather; and though we ilruck on the fands

once

once

rived 1

Jun

got frc

a quan

teis ar

and di«

new fl:

Str

about !

jfiimaic

no flra'

ftrawbe

fo gooc

Rei>

the hill

were nc

Some w

was put

the firft

Chep

titles bi

high-roj

but behi

On com

New To>

near thd

ties of c

feidom fs

New Tot

All trave

they pafs

Com

mc

New Turk.

71

rived at iVm rork about nine o'clock

>«f 4th. 1 FOUND vines in feveral jjardens
sot from the old countries. They hear annuallv

teis are very fe,ere. they are killed hy the froft

Hit Tr •" "'^ 2-und ; but theLxt S
new (hoots fpring up from the root. ^ ^

about the mwn every day. An EmM,„a„ from
>/....^ afferted. that in that ifland there wTrT
"° fti;«wberr,es. The fnakes are very fond of
ftrawberr.es. Thofe which they had here were
fo good as the S..ed/fl, and FMald or.^ "

.u un ^^°^ER was fown in fevera! nlaces on
the hdls without the town. The country people

borne were already mown j and the dry clover

Te fi^rft 00 '7° ■"' '■" "^"^ '° '^'^ carried r;
me nrit opportuninty. '

Cherry-trees were planted in great ouan-
■t.es before the farm-h^oufes. and^tng he

i- beS r Sat'f 1 " ^^- ^-»>'^^ ^
liina tnat place they became more fcarce

Ne^Zfr/jTf^'"'' '" 'he province rf
Z7.i ' ; ""'I '■'"" ^^'■y common again
ne r the gardens. Here are not fo many Lk-
ties of chernes as there are in PeMvLa. I

Nt"V7 T °^"'' ""^^'^ ^-=" cherries ; at
New York ; but commonly the four red ones

they pafs by. Between- New B.ruttJkokk and
* Commonly called Blad-hmn Chrrhi.

7

L .til

p:H^' I

4, 'S

.',11
rtt

n^

im

^^m\

'i^"

M \ I

$

V,

i II' ; ii

>A\.

X^»^>^n9>f

\%y^

\'i&

7»

Sfafen IJknJp ^r&a (c\^ chcrryrg^^en^ ; but
propa/tionarly priory, orchards, i^ith app]prtrcc$,

7f</''f^ ^th J . . . S'^.W4ff' &??ngpmen ^and mer-
chants, ^ bet w^cci) $fty.,^n4 fixty ycftF^ of age,
a^tcfj, j^at .4'7Bgi:il)c*r;'Vf^cthcy . J^^;.plai«)y
f"MOa,-|]?yeral kirvts. |of fi^^, d/3e»re;4fa <io number
cverjjr,yeari apd tjiaujjcjr could nP^gtt near fq
many fi(h now^s't}|»cy.couI4 for^iji^fly* ..r

R|JMj ? brandj p^parcdiroii^ the fugar-cancs,
and in greai.ulp "with , ill ^
American colonics, i^. ,fecI^Qne4.,much. vvliolc-
fomer |han brandy, made frpzu wine or corn -{-.
In ponfirmation of this ppinjqi^, they fay, tha?
if you. put a piece <^i frc(h meat imp rum. and
another iptp brandy^ .and leave them there for
fome months^ that ip the rum will, keep as it
was, but that in the brandy vyill be qijite e^ten,
and fpll of holes. But thi? experiment does not
ktm a very accurate or^e; to me^ Major Eqder-
fort told me, that being upon the Qmadg, expcr
dition, he had obfcfved, li^at (uch of his mep as
drank brandy for foniQ time (ii^d pf it; but
thofe who drank rum were not hurt, though
they got dirui^k vyith,,^^ ^^yery day, aqd pftener

t That rum is among the (p;ntuous liquors' lef« noxious tha^
any one of the reft, is chiefly owing to the barfamic quality it gets
from ,|hc fugar, which «orr<as the flyptic quality ail kinds of
brandy ^nd IpirUuous liguors have. The older the rum is, and
<he loftgir it hi» been kept in a great csiki the more is its ftypti-
city correfted. All wMc4i has been hfely proved by the cleareft
expeninents. explained and deduced from the moll indifputable
principles of chemittry, in . a pamphlet written by that able che-

LONG-

LONC

/ite the
norfbcn
than th
number
yet fom

^very ya

foil of t

poor; bt

qusntity

of fifh, a

pre thprc

(horcs ol

formerly i

caufe thei

^udlions G

very cafy t

have hecn

l/Iand is \

iheJis, whi

fervc novy ,

foutbcrn pa

and the noi

{s more cor

Iftowin/prir

[part. Th<

commonly i

7««f loti

and failed ut

I for A/Sa;ny.,

peet of Jittk

jwhither thej

Igoods for fa

pe commej

ii

northern pm Of thTia.ZA- ^\^ ^"- The

yet fome. n-hich however dccrtaft 1 '* l"'
every year, bccaufe .hev kJftuTZ '"""'!'''«'
fo,l of the fouthern wrt of *l ■n*"^ . ^'''>
poor,- but this deficfe^ :f ^1"^'"^ '* very
Quantify of oyfters jS i 1* "P ''J' « "aft

fire thpre far more »hunLZTJ^\ "" "'''•«^'» .
fliores of the ifland tI ? °" ''"= northern
formerly chofe the fr.*.»K °''' '''' ''■'"*^'''

caufe they fubfifted n ™«P'" '" "^« •"' be,

very eafy ,o fill , whoS ^•V"'"^' °""' '' «
haveheen drjvedl, ^o/e , "'' °^^^^^^^^
Ifland is ftrewed „i,u ^^ T" ^°°'^- The
ftells, whiciThe /S,^^f;-*elJs and other

foutbern part of °he iZr '^^ */. ^*='''«- The

is more conftant o» the ntl„^' ^h'^'^t^r
; fto w in ipring lies lon^^l^ V^" P"^' '^^ *e

Pm- TheVopK;^^^^^^

commonly tall aff C^ ^^^^S-Aw., a^d ,

'"/failed u^he^ivT^y ^r^^'^>* «d

for ^/w^ All th?;aS£;'"*r'''»r'*

fet of little boats return- f^^'^ ' *'''<"»
"hither they had broStn^ ^V^" ^^«' T.^,

^ -.erce ofthirtSrin^tlS;

^':

if

:1ii(

i^
■ J

iiii

'»\

Ifi If

W,!:;!

i'v

>'/.

liiiit

•../ .

\u

74

June 1749.

II !

Il^

number of Its inhabitants, i»o off very well. Tlie
rivcf Hudjon puns from North to Smith here,
cxept feme high pieces of land which fnmctimes
projc(ft far into if, and alter its diredtion j its
breadth at the mouth is reckoned abf>ut a mile
and a quarter. Some porpeffes played and tum-
bled in the river. The eaftern fliore, or the
JSIsw Tork fide, was at firft very fteep and high;
. but the weftern was very Hoping and covered
with woods. There appeared farm-houfes on
both fides, furroundtd with corn fields. The
ground of which the fteep fhores confided wa5
of a pale brick colour, and fome little rocks of a
grey fand-flone were feen here and there. About
ten or twelve miles from New Torkt the weftern
Ihore appears quite different from what it was
before 3 it confifts of fteep mountains with per-
pendicular (ides towards the river, and they arc
cxadly like the flecp (ides of the mountains of
Hall and Jiimnebarg in JVeJl Gothland. Some-
times a rock projeds like the falliant angle of a
baftion : the tops of thefe mountains are covered
with oaks, and other wood ; a number of ftones
of all fizes lay along the (hore, having rolled
down from the mountains.

These high and fteep mountains continue for
fome Englijh miles on the weftern fhore; biit|
on the callern fide the land is high, and fome-
times diverfified with hills and valleys, which I
;«rc commonly covered with deciduous trees,
amongft which there appears a farm now and
then in a glade. The hills are covered with
iloncs in fome places. About twelve miles fromi

Kc'W Tori
\LAping u
pa /Tig c vv
we prccec
river very
pretty farr
corn-ficldc

About tw(

ii'gh mour

left us, an

from cart:

This ahert

weflern /lie

became int

inllocks, V

init the cal

jit'Ii^Jitful p

in the nigh

'^'^i the mo

ebbing with

June Jit

cur voyage u

breeze. ' VV

tains, which

l^rt of a gr(

pretty deep,

and iikewife

jweiiern [Jiore

Ni4 not come

on the oppo/ii

|mountains we

ffliort blunt nof;

^^t^^cn New Tork and Many y.

pafl^'gc we met with po"; fl- ;"f r ">« -hole
wc prccecdcd we found thn '^^ "'''='■• As
ri-r vc-ry mud S^t/'^f'," banks of, he
pretty fanm, furrounjed J; h , " T"^^'' °^

About twentj-two ,ni) n"'"-'""/" ""^ ^icw.

eft us, and made as it were a S "'f""°"<=d
from eaft to weft n,.;,„ - ''" ''"^S« here

This altered tlTe L^f T°" '''= ^°"""y.
weftern fl>ore of 'he river '"-■ ^"""'^X °n the
became interfperfed with'li mi!""?"""'"'"""'. >'t
"I'ocks. ..hich were fear" "u"," ""'* ^°""d

delightful profpei aaTv'^ '" "'^^^'^ "» >

'■" 'he nig(n;r= caft o :'« .'"^ ' '"'''^ "''"''
f the corning. eW ,fr''°^ f"^ ^^Y '^er«

ebbing with great force. "' "^^ "'^^ ^»»

""<• voyage up the river . °r 'u^ •'^'^ continued
breeze VV» ' ^"^ the t de and a faint-

^« of a greyTnd.Vo„:'^:'^e°'"'- ',!'-^^ ^-
P^'t'y ftecp. and coveredjru ^Z '"«'' «"<!
=nd likewife with fir! ^"''^'lec'duous trees,
weft ^r„ n " "" "« and red cedar. tu
veitern fliore was full of rocks Jh I ^ The
flid not come ud tn ,h^u • > ' ^""^'^ however

1!^

t ■ ('

'; if*

♦ ;1

till

I

;i '

I '!'!

r-it

4J i

"'(' i!l

H.:,/ilJ

.!f1

': t

u

' ]>

1

i

1

\ i ' 1

•A

. ■!*

t

^6

yun^ 1749-

'r f

fog which furroundcd them. The country tvai'
nnfil for cultivation, being lb full of rocks, and
accordingly we faw no farms. The diftiftce from
thefe mountains to New Tork is computed at

thirty-fix £77^///^ milcSi :-.iiL;::ir; .,.

A thick fog now rofe up from" tliehi^h ijioun-
tains. For the fpate of fome Englijb miles,
we had hills and rocks on the weftcrn banks of
the river ; and a change of lefier and greater
mountains and vallies covered with yopng firs,
red cedars, and oaks, on the eaflern fide. The
hills clofe to the river fide are commonly low,
but their height incrcafes as they are further
from the river. Afterwards we faw, for fome
miics together, nothihg but high round moun*
tains and vallies, both covered with woods ; the
vallice are in reality nothing but low rocks, and
Aand perpendictilar towards the river in many
places. The breadth of the rrrer is fometimes
two or three mufket-{hot, but cotnmotily not
ftbove one ; cveiy now and then w« faw fcveral
kinds of ii(k leaping out of xht water. The
wind vaniflicd away about ten o'clock in the
mt>rning, and forced us to get forwards with
our oars^, the tide feeing almoft fpent.
:. Th^ water in ihe river has hct"e no more a
brackifl> taftd J yet i was told that the tide, cf-
peciaUy wfctn the wind is South, fometimes
carries the fait water up higher with it. The
oolour t^f the water was likewife altered, for it
appeangd darker here than before. To account
for the firft origin of rivers is very difficult, if
not wholly impoffible ; fome rivers may have
come frorii a great rsfcrvoir of water, which

being

rain orpt
and fiQw<
places wl
This is p^
in fo man
foft earth
rocks, zt^
ever it fee
origin froi
dence thei
cxiflence t
to the ac
Among tl;
Hud/on : I
the variety
way above-
in a di redl \
a diftance 0
miles, and j
which it ms
places b?tw(
pf faighi^ot
it is remark;
they come ti
redly acrofi
ftand perpen
is an ©pcnmi
hroad as the
through, am
on the other
likewifc rcma
«^hcre it paj
^<i«p, tarnd oh

Setwee,, New Tork and Albany. *,-.

being confiderably encreafed by heaw ftlU t

This is perhaps the fJr u ^f^ °PP°fition.
in fo many bTnd n^/"^ .^^V/omc rivers run

::S; S.fs /^- "^^^^^^^^^^^^

to the accid „,al eruDdon ^ ^^/ "°' ^ °^'"8
Among fhefe river, T '^'"" '''°"«'-

on thi other fide irrT* «° *« « ''«f^f.

*hcre i, paffes hr ^^\ "*" '° ^"«'» P'"^"
N«p. and o^lrf^.'^'r ""tains 'is a,

""*"•' '"'« "1 «>e other places.

The

\'i \

i

^ f

i

T I ■' I'

1 i

.i.

■i > :l

.1) '. ■}

.I'M;

1^1

nif.

fi)

ijtiliii

Hi

Ml

Il I

1

t '

■:■> fc.

!!.!| .

1 -il

\Hi

t!

¥

^une 1*749.

The perpendicalsr rocks oti the fides of the river
are furprifing, and it appears that if no paflages
had been opened by Providence, for the river to
pafs througbi the mountains in the upper part
%f the country xvonld have been inundated, fnice
'ihefe mountairts, like fo many dykes, would have
hindered the water from going on. ^uere. Why
does this river go on in a dired line lor fo con-
fiderabid a diftance ? Why do the many paffages,
throMgh whicb the river flows acrofs the moun-
tains, lyundei* the fame meridian? Why are
Waterfalls near fome of thefe paflages* or at leafl
ihallow water with a rocky ground ?

Wc now perceived exceffive high and fleep
mountains e-n both fides of the river, which
echoed back each found we uttered. Yet not-
withflanding they were fo high and fleep, they
were covered with fmall treeJ;.

The Blue Mountains, which reared their tow-
ering tops above all the other mountains, were
t\<y\v {^x\ before us, towards North, but at a
great diftaace.

---The country began here to bok mOre cul-
vated, and lefs moiint'iinous.
-^'The laft of the high weftern mountains is
called Biitterhilly after which the country be-
tween the mountains grows more fpaciou?.
The firms became very numerous, and we had
a profpeft of m^-ny corn-fields, between the hills:
before we palfcd thefe hills we had the wind in
our face, and we could only get forward by tack-
ing, which went very flow, as the river was
hardly a mufket-fliot in breadth. Afterwardsi
we caft anchor, becaufe we had both wind and|

tid

e a2am

ft us.

Whilst

. Whili

aad the ci

The L

the chefni

I found th

fome part^

latifoliay u

the flower J

SoM-E i\

South- wef]

weighed a

The place

end of ihof

their heigh

grey rock, ft

\% a vaft I

we had pad

Game cleare

river iikewi

near an £72^

fome time,^,.

the river j *t

chain of mc

^des are cov(

their \\<^\o\^i,^

barren ; for

'there, on a<^c

'^1^^(^, and

I that part is j

Of thefe mountains

i^at: for it fsajr,

iua operates net fb

Ij^ ''allies, and the

iiu;iiaii:5ofiiioJimo

Be^^e,» N.W Xonk W Albany. ^^

-Whilst we waited (nr .1,

I found the '"'ip-ie MSS:J:^''-^''f f •
fome parts of the wood a/i;il -r */^^^''*^ '"
/f i/i&. which wfSinfct'''" ^"^^"^
the flowers were aSj wifS •" ^ "'°"«'*
Some time ^fter nw„ t^. -^'ii ''^" "*^^^'

South- weft/ whi,h2/a7,;"\''r°ff'-°n»
weighed anchor anr) ^^ ? ""^^ wiijd. . we

The' place were welav Tl'^'f^ °"^ ^"^^'g*-
end of .hofeileep a„d7ma ?":t°\^"-'"<^ "'«
their height,:is verv am, • ^ '"?'""°"P'ains .'

grey rocMone, and cIoTeS '^"^^ «"«« of
came clearer of monn, ' "^ , ® ''°""'ry be-

"- ^'^r^--rarr'hrefdt!:'t^- \

near an £»^.>^. ,„;,« broad Af£ r°r' '^^'
fame time, we found n^ ^^ failing for

the river / bu' on ^1 ° 'J'^'" mountains flong

chain of ™o:„t2.t tS'Lrtt f r ^ ^'

'here. o„ a^counf of .£ L"!l d"^ "°"''^ «'°^
'ijyners. and the violence ff^ ^'^'"I °'^^«*.

'h" part is ex-porid A/^^f'r'.''''?'''^''
^ "• -^ ^P; ealtern fide of the

E i;-- •"^•uiuwins, i-', * wyju un tile

river

\

1 1 '»-'■'

I

N-|::,ui]

;i

» i:

ilHl

1

'.r

fiffli

,-%v\

t,irr

Nu

;■ ttoiteii..

f I

iBB!

83

June 1749.

M

i''i''

1 Sti

liver IS tnuch more cultivtted than the We{lern,'
where we iekioiB Mr a houfe, the land bein^
covered with woodsy though it is in geheral very
level. About Mif^ta E^hfi miks from New
Tork the cobiiiijr is not very high 5 yet it i^
every Urhcl^e co<reitd with Wbdds, except fome
iiew farms whieb U^ere fctttcfed here ttird there.
The high nM>iHita!ii« ilrhich tre left in th6 after-
tiooriy ikiw appeared thovii the wdod^ and the
country. Thei^ ilioiititaihs^ whi<:h were called
the Hi^hiunds, did liot projeft liiore North than
the bther, in the pkce where we anchored.
Their fides (dot thofe totvards the nvcr) were fel-
dom per()endicular» htit (loping, fdthat ofie could
climb up to the top, tho' not without difficulty.

On feveral high grounds hear the river^ i\it
people burnt lime. The madei' Of thd yacht
told n>e, that they break a fine bluei(h grey
lime-ftone in the high grounds, along both fides
of the river, for ibc fpace of fome Englijh miles,
and barn lime of it. But at fome miks diflancd
there is no more lime-ftone, and they find alfd
none on the banks till they come to Albany.

Ws paiTed by a little neck of land, which
projected on the weftcrn fide in the river, and
was called Dance, The name of this place i$
faid to derive its origin from a fefVival which
the Dutch celebrated here in former times, and
at which they danced and diverted thcmfelves;
but once there came a number oi Indians, who
killed them all.

We caft anchor late at nigh? , ''ccaufe the wind^
ceafed and the tide was ebbing. The depth of|
l})c river is twelve fathoms here.

The!

flight, 3

7 June
tvith*th(
was her
in "genet
low itoci

covered

and poor

habic i^i

a corn^fi

the fame

tniles; an

Ac eleven

little iflan

nVer, and

Tork aodi

ftonyi'a/jtt

diftance w

woods, chi

tops above

further off,

them. T^

we went*Q»

culti\f^tcdj[r

full of-gifda

fandy. uj^ev

and one oft

^^ ty a mjfri

favv fevera] c

taim are vcj

'appear th rou

V'OL. II,

^^/«/..«-AH'-*&r« and Albany. a%,

covered witjf w»o<Sf^^^^f «^*«'^r

At eleven o^^ P*^"!** *««^nfe*ent.
little ifland^: Xh iL- *''i!^ *«^''^**'*-''> a
river. arid« mt^^^^^i'^ of .he

ftonyi'a«d :I.H*/V^^J^^^^^^^ ft^l lot..

tops ^6ore tL reft Jf ^"^±1*''''=''K^ *«-r
further off. thr £ 1£! 1^^* ^^^a" mil

full of endir ofi.ft-^t,!^. '"«-^S»ern-fli<jft,;;arty
and one of tftem • oiliifri t.i *5"***fl^t>--/Me,

'»PP«r througVthe clo«<Jc afd?i''*\ '^''^^
Vol. 11. "™' 2na tower above all

other

!, J3

if

J!

ii ■' '■ ■■

: 5 r I' ;:■!

■!(

'(ii*!'

..,:iill!f-uk

11"

m

■82

Jum 1749.

i I

I •

!■ . il

tl

! i

)

^1
1^ ,1 ■

■ 'J

Other mountains. The river is full an E^g/I/J:
mile broad oppofite Slrajburg.

They make ufc of a yellow Jgarkus, or
' mufhroomy which grows on mdple-trecs, for
. tinder j that which is found ort the red-flower-
ing maple {^cer ruhruttt) is reckoned the heft,
and next in goodnefs is that of the Sugar-mapk
{Acer Jaccarinum)y which is fometimes reckon-
ed as good as the former.

Rhineeck is a place at fome diftance from

Strajburghy further off from the river. It is ih-

. habited by many Germans, who have a church

there.

At two in the afternoon it began again to

blow from the fouth, which enabled us to pro-

ceed. The country on the eaflern fide is high,

y and confifts of a well cultivated foil. We had

fine corn-fields, pretty farms, and good orch-

. ards, in view. The weftern ihore is likewife

. fomevv'bat high, but i\\\\ covered with woods,

and we now and then, though feldom, faw one

or two little fettlements. The river is above an

EngUp mile broad in moft places, and comes

in a Itrait line from the North, fo that we could

not fometimes follow it with our eye.

June 13th. The wind favoured our voyage
during the whole night, i:^ that I had no op-
portunity of obferving the nature of the coun-
try. This morning at five o'clock w^ were but
nine Englip miles from Albany, The country
on both fides the river is low, and covered
with woods, excepting a few little fcattered fet
tkments. Under the higher Ihorcs of the riverj

are!

5re "v(
[Caresi

We fa

•ntlbany
is chiei
We Can
As t(
of wood
^bove a.
of It arc
for govei
the morr
All tj
New Tor
down the
free from
or planks
ftnd furs,
which arc
come hom
'nerchandi
the chief,
ihe inhabii
dians in the
dians are d
banians to
yachts are f
in which th

^u% lodged
Cedar, or of

toi^ confifts
cedar, becaui
piuch longer

^^'•^m Hew Tcri and ^/A

ff'^^y. The land w, bo?h cf'"'^ ''"^"^s
« ^h'efly Jow. and teore ca J ,? "'^ ""^ ''^■='-

^,^.w:5 "^ird^ je ra.. .,, ^,^,

f°^ governing the y hts^ a? ^'?' "P^i^nce
the morningnve arrived a;^i^' "«''' °'^J°^k m
Ale the yaclif, JI-V ,'*''''>

down the „Ver Slff 7' ^^'y S° "P and
free from ice. T&h ."^ '* " '« open and

comehomeah„^re„n° ,'5^ t"*^^- They
merchandizes witi^ S' °"^^ ""•'"g ^ U
the chief. Thi Jaft LlbrT"^, ^'"■^''^'"" '■»
*« '"habitants of J/L'^^" "'«')' «eceflary to
^^'^^^ m the fur trade S't P ''l"' '^'^''•
f^f are drunk, therwill .' *'^'" ">« ^»-
W«. to fix the JrS nf' u " '° '^' ^l'
yachts are pretty ill .> \^ '^« ^"rs. The
-which VVinLTtit' ^goodcabS;
01% lodged. Thev .X "^ ''^'>' oommodi-

P'/'^'-. or%f ,,i;^^o:7 7;'»onl, buiJt of.../

'om confifts of white o^fc ^''?"?"'^y. <he bot-
«d^r, becaufe the J Uer wul H '^ ^'^^^ °f ^^^
."'?^h Wer than the W 'J^^t P"=-f-^«-„

fpJfl

pc 10 ipJir. vvl

• 7^>en « is n^ucfc .^^

an^

r1 ; ^n

' »

ii!.fir"

il r.

: 'I

i i'-' "I

I,

ii'

I-

M

I !:

i I' . !
1 '■: ,)

m

iiii

-.*4

yune 1749.

any thing, and the river Hudfon is in ma^7
parts full of fands and rocks, againft which the
keel of the yacht fometimes hits 5 therefore
they choofc white oak for the bottom, as be-
ing the fofter wood, and not fplitting fo eafily i
and the bottom being continually under Water,
is not fo much expofed to putrefadtion, and
holds out longer.

The Canoes which the yachts haVe along
with them are mad** of a fmglc piece of wood,
hollowed out; they are (harp on both ends,
frequently three or four fathoms long, and as
broad as the thicknefs of the wood will allow.
The people in it do not row fitting, but com-
monly a fellow ftands at each end, with a ftiort
oar in his hand, with which he governs and
brings the canoe forwards. Thofe which are
made here at Albany , are commonly of the nvhite
Pine ', they can do fervice for eight or twelve
vears, efpccially if they be tarred and painted.
At Albany they make them of the white pine,
fmce there is no other woou fit for them ; at
Neiv York they are made of the tulip-tree, and
in other parts they are made of red or white
cedars : but both thefe trees are fo fmall, in
the neighbourhood of Albany, that^ they are
unfit for canoes 5 there are no feats in the ca-
noe?, for if they had any, they would be more
.liable to be overfet, as one could not keep the
equilibrium fo well,

Battoes * are another kind of boats, which
are much in ufe in Albany : they are made oil

• From the Fretick Sateaux (BoauJ,

horn

u9|

■Albanf.

*;

boards of white p,r.,. the bottom is flat th.*
»hey may row ihe better m n^,li ' *

fathoms Jone The h^J^T,! r ^°"?^^ "^^^ four

LtfanllThlterd.lr t :S/"t" '° '"^^
and fix inches. tLv are Thlt °."' ^^^
for carrvfno „^„j i^ '^"'^"3' ""de ufe of

'f "frying goods, by means of the river.: ,^
the Indtans j that is wh^n ,\.J • ' '°

enough for .u 1. ' " '"°^^ "''S" are open

the canoes cannot carrv a Pr?at r,.^^ !»
eafifv nv,.rf^f .u I ' ^ ' cargo, and are

ab^ to them both. I faw no boats here like
thofe ,„ Sweden, and other parts oi Europe.

damage ^"^7 °" ^%\"'""y ^ 8^"' '^"l of
aamage at ^/^^sj,. There is hardly a month

>n fummer durin" wrhiVh ^ A-^ft j ^ • '"°"''»
The rpring co„^;t,^:,tl'dT°fed

t H^ (L H u " °[ "■'" ^"'i kitchen-herbs.
eshad T'^ 'hat the bloflbms of the apple

verv f ■^' '''""«' ="'"mn there would be bu
often lolled by the froft in the .^^.A. ^Z
autumn here is of long continuance, ;i;h warm^

^3 days

1 1.1

flii

/■^

I ^ m

8*

1' « '

June 1749.

r '• ■ III

. '.i y

days and nights. However, the cold nfghtj
commonly commence towards the cndof iS^/»-
tembery and are fi^equcnt in OBober. The peo-
ple are forped to keep their cattle in ftablcs, fron>
the middle of November, till March or April,
^nd muft find them hay during that time *.

During fummer, thp wjnd blows common-
ly from the $outh, and brings a great drought
along with it. Sor^ietimes it rains a little, an4
as foon as it has rained the wind veers to Norih-
\veft, blowing for feveral days from that point,
and then returning to the South. I have had
frequent opportunities of feeing this change of
Tyind happen very ^xa(Sl:ly, bpth this year and
the following.

June 15th. The enclofures were made of
Ijoardsof fir-wood, of which there is abundance
in the extenfive woods, and niany fai^y-miUs to
cut it iqto boards.

The fcver^l forts of apple-trees grow very
veil here, and beai: as fine fr.uit as in any other
part of North America. Each farm has a largq
orchard. They have fome apples here?, which
are very large, and very palatable i they are fen(
to New Tork, and other places as a rarity.
They make excellent cyder, ip autumn, in the
country round Albany,

All the kinds of cherry-tree?, which have
been planted here, fucceed very well.

Pear-trees do not fucceed here. This was
complained of in many other parts of North
America, {Jut I fear that they do not take

• The reader mu/l reckon all this according to the old fllle.

fufficisfli

fofflcicn
of them
parts of
Peac
and ncv
tributed
and eats
Perhaps
much to
Thev
befides lY
They
they wan
They
loofe foil
for it will 1
reap a hu
"J^ry good
covers afte
had exam]

Spring, to

up again 1

crop. Mi

ftandfng n

vi^heat. 1

monly fowi

They f

Albany^ wi

they get tw

they get tw

only to ten

trifling. T

Albany, are

\\s^ in fevers

^ Albany^

h

tributcd to a worm wh;rh T • . ''''' '^-

loofe fnn • "T"^^" '" «'"' abundance • A

verv pcoH tin^ f •. 5^ reckon maize a

vciy gcoa Kind of corn, bemwi. .I,„ n
cover-! afi^r I,.! L . "^'•siiie tlje flioots re-
covers after be ng hurt by the froft. Thev have

had examples here of the rhoota dyin^ t 4. in
P "f^in^f^ '"I 2"""'^' '"'^ yet' l';y ;i,ot .

flanging mTh longe Tg' Lft'; f'^^^^^
wfipnf -T^u I "^r^ againit a dfou;^ht, than

Thv." r ,' ^^"^ *" September,

triflinry T^L • *^ ^^i" uHc, tftey think If vcrv

Jive in fQv.r.^ ....... ^^^^^^•f- The Germa^^s

,.- -e^^... ^.cu, Villages, and fow great quan-

^ 4 titles

f! ^'^1

Ul'

•I

88

yune 1749.

111!

m

M

rl

titles of wheat, which is brought to Album }
and from thence they fend many yachts laocpi
with flour to New Tork* The wheat-flour
from Albany is reckoned the beft in all North
America^ except that from Sopus or King's Towrit
a place between Albany and New Tork. All the
bread in Albany is made of wheat. At New Tork
theypay ihe^/^^/yr flour with fcveralfliillings more
fer hundred weight, than that from other places.

Rye is likcwife fown here, but not fj ge-
nerally as wheat. '

They do not fow much barley here, becaufe
ihey iiO not reckon the profits very great.
Wheat is fo plentiful that they make malt of it.
lx\ the neighbourhood of New Tork, I faw great
iields fown with barley.

They do not fow more oats than are qeceflary
for their horfes.

The Dutch and Germans ^ who live here-
flbouts, fow pcafc in great abundance -, they
fucceed very well, and are nnnnally carried to
New y^orky in great quantities. They have been
free from infccSts for a confiderable time. But
of late years t|ie fame beetles v/hich deftroy the
peafe in Pjcnjylvaniai New Jerfcy, and the lower
parts of the province of New Tork, have likewife
appeared abundant among the pea^e here. It \z
a real l^fs to this town, and to the other parts
cf North Amerlcc^ which ufed to get peafe from
hence for their own confumptiori, and that of
their failors. \x. had been found that if they
procured good peafe from Albany y and fowed
them near Kings Town, or the lower part of
the province of New Tork, they fucceeded very

wcii

well thQ.
fccond^ I
or wouk
into the J
not boil,
wholcfon:

POTAI

pie preftn

dunng vvi

The Bt

have Jikcv

pretty weli

them durii

that feafon

The Hu

^0 this pluc

bird.

The rhi

covered are

is reckoned

times better

thyoidesj. '

here, m fuc

I in Europe.

I parts of the

"J^^fey and B

jt'fy of deal'.,

\^'< Albany, \

\Tork, and frc

The wood

[wife grow oi

l^rifing qua

|of trees oq th

Z

•Albany ,

«»

or would cat them ^T ' ' "°''°^3' could

not boil, or fofc„"we|^.'^bn^ K T ''''^ ^'»
Uow. g'^c'-'bie to the palate, I do not-

/;Sd^aSs':rs 1""^^'- . «°""' p"--

during winter "^ '"' ''*^P'«g '^eni in

Jhatfeafon. ' ^°' ""^^ S^nerally rot in

7 1 .0 ^h^pf rE£/.^?^- ^^^f -) comes
bird. ""'"'''"«" 's rather a fcarcc

The rhingies xvith which ih^ h„ r
covered are made of ,he Wh.V d- "'^^ ^"^
is reckoned as (jood and .. , ", ^'"^' ^'^'^ll
times brtter. than tl'l wl "'^'''"' ''"^ ^'"n'^-

, liere, in fuch places wLfJ """^ abundant

in iV.;.,. iLve "rve rf:enT°"P"'"u" 2^""
Pjrts of the province o/iVr ^ T '" "''= '''"'"

•i'y of deal /Vom tr'wr ^D^?^ ^ '""^ ^^^n-
of ^fev, wh ch ar. f '^"" P'"« on this fide

I 2 " "* ^''^ "^^"^ ^flem by their

vvefght.

f?' 'f

J, 'I -i

mm^iii

,-u l.

1'

* ■■!■ 'i- H'SfV'

• 1' i

Vi

i&!±

t is 1!; !

^0

>«^ 1749.

weight. But where they found no trees, they
hung down along the deep (hores, and covered
them entirely. The grapes are eaten after the
frofl has attacked them ; for they are too four
before. They are not much ufed any other
way.

The vafl woods and uninhabited grounds,
between Albany and Canada^ contain immenfe
fwarms of gnats, which annoy the tiavellers.
To be in fome meafures fecured again ft thefe
infedls, fome befmear their face with butter or
grcafe 5 for the gnats do not like to fettle on
greafy places. The great heat makes boots very
uneafy; but to prevent the gnats from ftinging
the legs, they wrap fome paper round them,
under the ftockings. Some travellers wear caps
which ^over the whole face, and have fome
gauze before the eyes. At night they lie in
tents, if they can carry any with them ; and
make a great fire at the entrance, by the fmoke
of which the gnats are driveii away.

The porpeiTes feldom go higher up the river
Hudjon than the fait v/ater goes; after that, the
fturgecns fill their place. It has however fome-
times happened, that porpelTes have gone quite
up to Albany,

The fireflies [Lampyris) which are the fame
that are fo common in Pcnfyhania during fiun-
iner, are here i^cn in abundance every night.
They fly up and down in the ftreets of this town.
They come into the houfcs, if the dcors and
windows are open.

Several of the Fenfylvanlan trees are not
to be met with in thcic wcods ; 'ih.

Magnolia

Magno
Nyffa,
Liqiiidc
Diofpyr
Liriode,
Jiiglam

C era's C
Robinia
Gledhjia
Arwona

Celtls ol\
[number of

The mo
Ithe height
purfe of i\\
f'^to the fca^
)i2nts from ;
'ay» are ch
ivhich grow
(icre.

, This aftei
I'ss m the r
klovv the to'

Pg» and no
[tis almoft en

ifihabited \
Mcfnng this
Kre we faw
rhich were Je
Y formed a^
pe Red Mr?p!
Fce \x\ fci/c^ra
h7 on the

Albany,

91

SZ'-SZ- 1° '-'■■" ""'•'•■'"'■

y .^ -' tne :>-wamp Oak.
Ceras Canade^fo, the 'Sallad-tree

Uhis occidenUiUs, the Netth 7! ^ ',

, The more mnZZV \- ^'f''^''^ '^"e.
h height of thrSL ;;^''°" °^ "'^ P'''"'

i-<o the fca, and a'ccorH f""' *""" Southward
'1-ts from 'noTtS to ouf "t.""y f'^= ^"''-"f
'V. are chic% the c"a"U .h ? r'''' ?"''-''^y
^vhWi grow in P !/•/ • '''^' ^^^^'■a' plants

This afternoon I went to fee in ;n,n^ ^• t
h "> the middle of the river a£. ^^'$
pow the town Th;c ;<i. j • °"' ^ '"''«
h and notLvc^'lf^^V-'-^^ff -ile

i inhabited b!:-,, 1 >"'° '°'" ^"^''^^ ' «"d

*ffing this'iflrnd "f h'e r/e'r of."' '''"''
N we raw no wood ^ ° ^ ""'^^-

fhich were Jeff rr>.,o^ . f^^^P^ ^ ^^^ trees

J formed a t Tre it"". °" ''^^ '^°^^'

he in fe.:S ,& 'tT^ ^'^'^ '" ^t'""-
I "^^ f'jaces. its lfn\7<-c .>..«. ...1.-

K on the under fides. andr;r "■"

or

^" agitated
by

■ 1

1

1

i\

' »i

-I

'Ml

J

I

i :

fi:

; i I \-
f III! ^

*,- 1

''ft

! ■ii

'■r

11
if'

/I nit'

I

gzy

^mis iy4.g.

IT ft'

I il
I i

I it'. .a

I'h':

il

!i

hiL...

by the wind, they make the tree appear as if It
was full of white flowers. The Water-beech
fPlatanus occidentalis) grows to a great height,
and is one of the mofl fhady trees here. The
Water-poplar* is the moft conia:jon tree here-
abouts, grows exceedingly well on the fhorcs of
the river, aad is as tall as the tallcft of our afps.
In fumrner it affords the befr (hade for men and
cattle againft the fcorching heat. On the banks
of rivers and lakes it is one of the moll ufeful
trees, becauie it holds the foil by iis extenfivc
branched roots, and prevents the water froiri
wafhing it away. The Water- beech and the
Elm-tree fUImusj ferve the fame purpofe. The
wild Prune-trees were plentiful here, and were
full of unripe fruit. Its wood is not made ufe
of; but its fruit is eaten. Sumach fRh us gla-
bra) is plentiful here ; as alfo the wild vines,
which climb up the trees, and creep along the
high {liores of the river. I was told, that the
grapes ripen very late, though they were already
pretry large.

The ylmcrlcan Elm-tree (VhnusAmerkam)
formed feveral high hcfU^es. The foil of this
jilf.nd is a rich mould, mixed with fand, which
is chiefly employed in maize plantations. Therej
were, likevvile large Adds oi potatoes. Tfiel
whole ilLmd. was leafed for one hundred pouiids|
of Ne'W York currency. The perfon who hai
taken the leafe, again let fome greater and fome
fmaller lots of ground, to the inhabitants cf

* Popuhi gla'rdulis 'variis hcji foliorutn ndnrxu^ fdl'is romifA
//e'^Diifi/ws, aciy?!!n/itis, ftrra'e a'l^gulnf:.;^ utrinsue glabrii, — An /W
ptius h/fetohiyHa Linna;i ?

Jll'm

Albany^
by that
(Portiili
vn great
June
goes ab(
Albany^

when th<

ing near'

water wi

that feafc

likewife I

The c

here. T

three Or

fome of 1

fix pair oi

about the

Great piec

which for

that ffand

very high

ice flops i

the river ij

obfervcd to

monly is j

here m wii

iive feet. <

are put up,

oi April ihi

The wat

very cool at

tafte. ivhiV

as if It

r- beech
height,

. The
^e here-
lorcs of
ur afps.
len and
e banks
c ufeful
itenfivc
)r from
md the
. The
id were
lade ufe
hus gk-
i vines,
3ng the
that the
already

-^Ibanyl

n

Mam', for waking kitchen-gardens of- ,n^
in great abn„danc:^idTo;st" ^1^^ ''-

when the fnow melts thpr^ ;7u j.' 'P""g

ing near this toTn for L „"^'^ '"^ ''°^^-
water which comesVt t Etarffi„t

!^^^::^;:.Ve:";-s^^^^^^^ -''

here Vh • " .^'""^"y '-^ckoned very fevere
tnree Or four feet thiVk o^ *u ^""^'""iy
feme of the inhabitat'cro''ff:d1h/ rivtr w^^^

Great ptes oftftme d^w^"'""'"^^^ ^^"^•

which/foo^etitncrc r7wrt£^"',£*'J'T'
that ftand clofe to the Zre ti, ""'^^

hete in winter to the depth J three fouror

Xv thW are °"' • '' ''"Smning or middle
■^pru ttiey are m motion again.

tTl I'r. i'^'i"!^^ but had a kind of acid
' ■"""•'' ^^«" "^^ very agreeable. On a

r.^

•I'

> t i;J 1

;i| Ijiifi

.:t {

;• !

J-

a

1 m

nearer

n

yane ty^g,

' 'M

If m:.

VI

]'§M

i

■ !t

-}

i '

f

I i'

' ; ;, '3

nearer examination, I found ^n abundance ot
little infcdis in it, which were probably Momcidi
Their length was different i fonie v^ere a geome^
trical line and an half, others two, and othefs
iour lines long. They were very narrow, and
of a pale colour. The head was blacker' and
thicker than the other parts of the body, and
about the fize of a pin's head. The tail was di-
vjded into two branches^ and each branch ter-
minatcd in a little black globule. When thefe
infeds fwim, they proceed in crooked or undu-
lated hnes, almoft like Tadpoles. I poured feme
of this water into a bowl, and put near a fourth
part of rum to it. The Monocidh inftead of
being affecfted with it, fwam about as brifkly as
they had done in the water. This fhews* that
if one makes punch with this water, it mtift be
very ftrong to kill the Monccitru I think this
water is not very wholerome for people who are
not ufed to it, though the inhabitants oi Album
who drink it every day, fay, they do not feel
the leafl: inconvenience from ir. I have been
feveral times obliged to drink water here, in
which I have plainly feen Monociih fwimming;
but I gener% felt the next day fomcwhat hkea
pea in my throaty or as if I had a Avelling there;
and this continued for above a week. I felt
fuch fuellings this year, both at Albany and in
other parts. My fcrvanr, Tung-Jlroemy like-
wife got a great pain in his breall, and a fenfation
as from a fwelling, after drinking water with
Monoculi in it: but whether thefe infeds occa-
iioned ir, or whether it came from feme other
caufe, I cannot afccrtain. However, I have

al

vv

ays

lance of

geome-
d othefs
3W, and
kei* and
dy, and

was di-
ich ter-
en thefe
r undu-
ed fome
I fourth
lead of
iflcly as
^Si that
mtiftbe
nk this
vho are
dibanjt
lot feel
/e been

^/^^/y/. ;

J occa-

other

I have

always

have io^JlZZn in ^'rr^' '■" "• I

from the det^Trwel " Z' ^'i' "^'^^' '^f^'"
this countrv P^r^ 'J'ff^-'-ent parts of

arifc from w;,erf of Z r T °/ °"^ difeafcs
fufficicntly «am ° "^ ^'''"''v^'^ich we do not

which is a;^pl,2 7,^' '"^ ^'f ' ">^ water of
brewing, and ifh; T" "'^ ' •»"' ^°^ t".
•he watVr of .he r ve & i '^ T-T'^'^^y '^^^
by .he town T fs ""f""'.'^^^^^ ^<^^^ Oofe

niuddy, and very tarmi; f ^'^^''''^ '5''"=
'hat account, it i^ kTn n ,["™'"^'-' """d. on

the ilime may fubfid '^ ' ^ '^ "'''u'" °'^^' """
cool a little. ' "^ '''" ''^^ water may

.hauhe'bfr chSa,: Z'T)' ^'^^ '°'<' -•
of the 5/^,^, P.W Th/n ^e were made

f;;;P'-nion. we - haTctl-mlde ofTe'^^?

other w^od f Ihis ; So^'^rT't,"'^; °/^"y

nut-tree aftn-H, P" P°'c- The black Wal-

but it does not , "' "'""'^ ^°' «°-k«^

^fej, °' 2'°^^ '" '^'^ neighbourhood of

'^«-/s;h;:7jrT!:':^'"',.--j-'i

It

i^ii

I ■■ ''J

' «

^'V'f

i • I I'f' '

■iif^'?:•

■'■■

r-;'

i

• ■

. u '

' f;

■ 1

1

/ ;i .

,» > ■ i i

J

*n

;^6

June jy^g:

'\

Vi

i 'i

Pi'

li

^^^^^H t

^^^^^^^H I

^^^^m -'

i| , >;■

ji .

(

II

II'^^'I

■ 1

iki^

i j

1

^^H . ^H

II"

H^ 1

I'lr

1 /

■j B

1

;

^^^^B i^Hi

;ti-5- V 1

i
1

HI MB

r- ■ ; ■ ■:. ■■>

HH

Ifgi

^^^^^^Hkl^^^jPr')

^ii!il

9i

L

; It is fituated on the declivity of a hill, clofc to
th€ weftcrn ihore of the river Hud/on, about one
hundred and forty-fix Englifi miles from New
Tork, Thjs town extends . along the river,
. which flows here from N. N. E. to S. S. W.
.The bigll ^inountains in the weft, above the
town, hoanjd the profpect.on that ike. There
1 are t\yo\h\\tchts\Ti^lhny>2iiiEngJiJh one and
_ a Z)«/f/;. one, .The JDz^/r;^ church ftands at
, fome diftance from the river, on the eaft fide of
. the market. It is.built.of ilone^ and in the
middle it has a fmaJl fteeple^ with a bell. It has
but Of^e roinirtcr, who preaches twice evety
. Sunday. The i;/^/^ church, is fituated on the
hill, at the weft end of the market, dire^ly un-
der the fort- it is hkcwife built of .ftone, but
has no fleeplc. . There was no feryice at this
church at this time, becaufe they had no mini-
fterj and all the people underftood Dutch, the
garrifoii. excepted. The minift<^r of this church
has a fettled income of oae hundred pounds
fterling, .which ^he gets from England. The
town-hall Jies to the fouthward of the Dutch
churchy, clofe-hy^tl^rive^ fide.^ It is a fine

buildiagpjf ftopej^'thxeAfiorierh It has a
fmaU tx)wef,,pt; fteejief -witha;^ ^d a gil:

taih and v^nfi U^^SR^ .^f n.A, ,3,^^ 5,^,,

The hoi^s^^q .tbk:ft£iWi^iH,e,:yjEry'ceat, and
partly built wifliftones (;Qv,?r:ed ^yith, Ihingles of
tht JV hit e Fmelu Son? e 9re_|ls ted with tiles
from Hollandt becaufe the clay of this neigh-
bourhood is not reckoned fit for tiles. Moftof
the houfes are built in the old way, with the
gable-end towards the ftrect; a f:;w excepted,

which

which
ufed.
thofe (

fcribed

flreet, i

planks.

covered

pra<aife(

have vii

damagec

reach ah

prefervej

rain ; b

weather

hcing ha

from th(

rally in i

^idts arc

the peopl

ally on t\

houfes.

with peoj

troublefon

greet ever

litcnefs of

ftreets are

in fome pa

Greets are

others inu

^reet whic

five times L

a market-p]

are very di

«ttie in X

'Albany.

which were lately built in ,h, ^^

ufed. A great r.umb« ^f u r '"''""^' "ow

planks The o'otfide o tl tV "^"' "^
covered with hme or r^L °."^" " "ever

praftifed in any^,°;n»"^ "»^ have I f.e„ it
have vifitfd ; and Tli. ,7"?* '"'''"^ ^^ich I
damaged by the ai Zf' ^^ "°' ^""^ to be
feach almoil to the midHr i""*'"* °" the root,
Preferves the wall, f^^ K °^ '^ ^^«"- This
"in; but is eiemX T-^^ '^"'"''S^'' h^ 'ha
weather for the nS ^'.''^^'i'^^hle i„ ^ainy

heing hardly Iny JZlJ" 't ^^^«'' 'here

fro«.the guttefs^^Thellrret'd'"^ ''^ ^^^•^■•
""y in the middJe of the b ' r °°" """^ g^"^-
fides are feats, on which H?"^" ' /"'' °" '''•"•
'he peopJe fpendall^rt '•,""."« fair weather.

ally on ^hofe^tct fe' : St > ^'"P-'
houfes. In the evening ,hJ r ''""^"^ °^ 'he
'vi'h people of both W '1^"'' are covered
troublefome. aVthofc itr V'^l!' '^'" •' father
greet every bodv unl.7 k''"' ''^ "^^ °hJiged to

f ne.. c/.hethSn;^^f"^^3r ' ''' '-
ftreets are broad, and fomt If !l """'• ^^he
'" fome parts thev are iT.^ ■ u^"^ ^'' P^^^^ ,

«;«'» -; ala>o/;a7atetThe '""^ "^^ '""^
o'hers intcrfeft them ., < "^"' ""'* 'he

rtreet which goes beL' l^ ""«'"• ^h^
five .hnes brofde, th ^he orh •''° ''"^^'^^^' "
a market-place. Th " ft ^'"" '"'' ''^"■« ^^
'"^ ^^7 dirty, becaufe r" "P?" '"^ '^''^°'-
"ttJe in the^.T.!::'.lP^°P'« ^"^'^ '-heir
foi. II. " jv ""•' "immer nidus.

" fhere

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98

June 1749.

1; I

n/j:i

There are two market-places in the town, to
which the country people refort twice a week.

The fort lies higher than any other build-
ing, on a high fteep bill on the weft fide of the
town. It is a great building of ftone, furround-
ed with high and thick walls j its Situation is
very bad, as it can only ferve to keep off plun-
dering partieG, without being able to fuftain a
fiege. Thctc are numerous high hills to the
U'eft of the fort, which command it, artd from
whence one may fee all that h done within it.
There is commonly aa oflicier and a number of
foldiers quartered in it. They fay the fort con-
tains a fpring of water. > ^ -,

The fituation oi Alhany is very ^dvantagtbu^
in regard to trade. The river Huif/bri, which
flows clofc by it, is frobi twelve to twenty feet
deep. There is not yet any quay made for the
bettef lading of the yachts; bfccaufe the people
feared it would fuffer gfd^tly, or be entirely car-
ried away in fpring by the ice, which then comes
down the river J the veflefls which are in ufe
here, may come pretty near the fhore in order to
he laden, and heavy goods arfe brought to them
upon canoes tied together. '.?//^^«y carries on a
confiderable commerce With New l^ork, chiefly
in furs, boards, wheat, flour, peafe, feveral kinds
of timber, &:c. There is n6t a place in all the
Brit;Jh colonies, the HudJon% Bay fettlements
excepted, where fuch quantities of iurs and Ikins
are bought of the Indians as at Albany* Moft
of the merchants in this town fend a clerk or
agent to Ofwego, an EngliJ?j trading town upon
the lake Ontario^ to which the Indians refort

wiih

whole
tribes c
goods.
Indians
their gc
and thai
i\it valu

Titl% to

merchan

are highi

Indian a

bear, anc

goods for

when the

cheated, I

fatisfied v

once dranJ

which tht

whole WO]

their Jofs i

I nedtar. B^

Y'i Indians ,

jerpecially f

jpJace, they

jikins. Th(

carrying fun

Fg to the ,

rvithilanding

Vmada earn

yhey Cct^fi ti

-Albany, s
wih their furs. I i„,,„. :-H-,v 99

account of this place in^ F^ " '""^^ minute

-hole ^"mmeratfe/':"', f ^"^ 'P-'^^f'e
'"b« ofI„j;a„^ wCcom. , 'i;"^^ *"'''' many
f od«- Many people £1?,^° '^'^ ^'^^ ^^Z
Indtuns are frequently cre.rS'''^ T' "^« 'he
'"e-r goods. efpe\ian74^"\t '" difpofing of
and that fometimes the^r ^ ""^ '" "quor.
"'^ value of their S/° ^K «" °"« ^^'f o f
neA to feveral tranftSs of ,K-' ^''^ ^ -"-
merchan ,s of ^H " ""^ "^ f -^ Jcmd. The
are highly pleafed when 7hev h. '^''^'' ""^
/W.^« a greater portion of 7 '['' ^i'""" ^ P°or
bear, and when Ih^T^ilT^y "^^n he'can
goods for mere trifles. The 7J"«!-' ''" his
when they are fober again ,^.T' °^''" ^"d.
cheated, they erumM^ r ' "" '^ey have been
^"i^fied whe'n^hey' flSrr^';"' hut are S
once drank as much 2.U " '''^J' have for
which they vaW £e"^5^^- ^hle.'of a 1,^;:
whole world, and they ar. ^ ^'"^ '^^^ '" 'he
'he-r lofsif ehey agai^ '7 f f '"[^nCble to

";aar. Bcfides (hi! t' ad! Lo?'"^'"' °^ "''•''
\ofhJ,ans come to ^JLf °-^*'"<f''' ^ "umber
KP^c.ally from C^r't^?' '"veral parrs.
place, they hardly bring 'a„ " . °™. ''^'^ '^"=r
&,ns There is^a great n^ i'"^- ''^ '"^^^er-
carrymg furs to the IS "f '>' '° <^''»'^'/'^ for
K to the French wTh'^''' '^'^^ helong-
J;'thftanding which the It ^"'"P^'^y^" "ol
IW^carryonaconiLerfbrr "T'^''""= '"
% ^-d their furs. ifZlllZ'tl''^'^'

to

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June 1749.

to ihcir corrcfpondents at Jllbany, who purchafe
it at the price which they have fixed upon
with the French merchants. The Indians take
return leveral kinds of cloth, and other

m

goods, which may be got here at a lower
rate than thofe which are lent to Canada from
France,

The greater part of the merchants at JIbany
have extenfive efhtcs in the country, and a great
deal of wood. If their cftates have a little
brook, they do not fail to ere6l a faw-mill upon
it for fawing boards and planks, with which
commodity many yachts go during the whole
fummer to M'7c^ 3Vy^, having fcarce any other
lading than boards.

Many people at ^if/tezy make the wampum of
the Indians, which is their ornament and their
money, by grinding fome kinds of (hells and
muicles ; thjs is a coniiderAble profit to the in-
habitants. 1 fliall fpeak of this kind of money
in the fequel. The extenfive trade which the
inhabitants o( Jib any carry on, and their fpar-
in'^ manner of life, in the Dutch way, contri-
bute to the confiderable wealth which many of
tht-m acquire.

Tup: inha'ut.mts oi Albany and its environs
are ahnoft z\\ Dutchmen, They fpeak Dutck,
have Dutch preachers, and divine fervice is
•^•.erformcd in that language : their manners
arc likewife quite Dutch \ their drefs is how-
cH-er hke' that of the E?!:^lip. It is well
knoWn that the firft Europeans who fettled la

.1

the province of Ncio Tork were Dutchman.
Duri:v^ the time that they were the mailers of

tlii)|

JO

this province thfy pofll-ffed themfelves cf Ar
!>weden *, of which .l,cy were kllou/ H "
ever the oleafur,. «r „ /.""^fc jealous. How-
land .„d Swn! w^^t'f "f. .his T"''"""'
for towards .he end Tf 66! %^H'\ '^"^='"'°" '
by order of King cZ£tL 7' ^""'-
Nev, York, then V. IpJ^A Tl '°
Soon oftcr Colonel Nkhih So ^//
which then bore the mme of c- ! ^ ^^'l'<'"y,
"pon taking i,. named iJ5// / "l'^'' ""''

lobars fr:r.-vP;^^'"i>o;^

fcended. who now le in^L "'"" ^ ^'•

rork, and who Lffl fh '''''";'" ""^ ^"^
eflates i„ that pro'lince. ^""''^ ^'"^ ^"='1

The avarice and felfidjner.; nf ,(,. • u l-
tantsof^/^^„. ,re verv well\.f ""= '"'^'''h-

f r.«c/;, and even by the Dutch t.^ I ""'
part of AA,«,nr-{ province ,f a e, "'^'"^^^
derftands the art nf J.,, V •''''' "''^° ""'

well. 'l.onldV. e Sft^^""t ^^'^^'^
not fail to ruin him F- t""' ''^''7 "'""Id

con^es to thi nl c wi.h /'^i!' ^"'°" "°i'"dy
v^-r iijjv, Diace Without the m^/^ ,a^ z^'

"eceffity, and therefore I was a/l-Tdl^f'"^:
places, what induced me to co to k "'

one after another. I ^^l ^L'^', '^ /-

.;i

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[ 102

>«(f 1749.

I . I-

m

judgment, which people formed of them, was
not without foundation. For though they fel-
dom fee any Grangers, (except thofe who go
from the Brii{fh colonics to Canada and back
again) and one might therefore expedt to find
viduals and accommodation for travellers chea-
per than in places where travellers always rc^
fort to, yet I experienced the contrary. I was
here obliged to pay for every thing twice,
thrice, and four times as dear as in any part
o^ North Avierica which I have palled through.
If I wanted their afliftance, I was obliged to
pay them very well for it, and when I wanted
to purchafe any thing, or to be helped in fome
Cflfe or other, I could prefently fee what kind
of blood ran into their veins \ for they cither
£xed exoibitant prices for their fervice?, or were
very backward to afllft me. Such was this
people in general. However, there were feme
amongft them who equalled any in North Ame-
rica^ or any where] clfe, in politenefs, equity,
goodnefs, and readincfsto ferve and to oblige; but
their number fell far ihort of that of the for-
mer, li I may be allowed to declare my con-
jedures, the origin of the inhabitants of Albany
and its neighbourhood feems to me to be as
follows. Whilft the Dutch pofleffed this coun-
try, and intended to people it, the government
took up a pack of vagabonds, of which they in-
tended to clear the country, and fent them along
with a number of other fettlers to this province.
The vagabonds were fent far from the other co-
lon ids, upon the borders towards the Indians
and other enemies, and a few honcfl families

were

103
were perfuadcd «► go with them, in order to
keep them in bounds. I cannot L^, ,.,C
account for the difference be" wce7th"h?^

.Ted t .h \ """°" " '^^ ^"''^' '-ho are fc ?
^edinthe lower part of N,w rori province
The latter are civil, obligine iuft in »(,-
and finccre , and tho..oh .P" ^ ^^ ?""»'•

"ious. yet thiv are wS 1^ """ "°' '""^°-
, jrci iiicy are w<iil meaning aiH hnn^rt

«nd the.r promifes are to be relied on" '

during the war between E>,^/a„^ and Frl?'

ctVu '""^ "-"'^ the%c"ce "o - ^ril

ttbS'to"'' r°"u« '^''"«' od,er caufe, con!

the S^.m'^", "'""/''^ °^J^« °f hat red in

^^^tana, rot at the bejriuninf* nf fK-»«.

re";dt7de«' if'"' °^ ^°"' P-- had're"
ceivea orders to commence hoftilities the

FjcA engaged theirs to attack the in abitants
of;V^£.^/W, which they faithfu ly x S -
ed. M,ng every body they met wirh. and carrv
ng oft whatever they found. Durin. "Jis 1 1
he people of ^Sa«y .^m.incd neu, .?!. d c"!

murd "redTh"- 'ht "*■"• "'^ ^^O'/mJ^;
murdered the inhabitants of AViy RmJa'!>/ The

or wmch the Indians robbed the houfes in
Ne^ fi«^/W was carried to .^/^^„;, f° r faie

ve veTlf ^h' 'l" r" '""^"^^ i"'«^'= fi-
ver veHds though the names of the owners

pay them well, and whatever they would del

^ 4 matid.

I'll

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y««^ 1749-

I1 ::

mand. This was afor wards- interpreted hy the
inhabitants o( Nr*^ :^ng/and,j ^s i^ i^ Alba-
nianstncourdgQdtk^.hi^iafis to kill more of the
people, who vy ere in a manner, their brothers,
an^ who were ruyed;t^ 0/ the fame crown. Up-
on the firfl: news; pfibis l>ehavio«r, which the
Indians^ themfely es fpread in New England^ the
inhabitants of the , latter province were greatly
incenfed, and threatened, that the firft ftep they
would take in another war, would be to burn
Albany^ and the adjacent, parts. . In the prefent
war it would fufficiently. appear how backward
the other Britijlo provinces in America are in
afTifting Albany ^ and the neighbouring places,
in cafe of an attack from the French or Indians *.
The hatred which the Englijh h^^i againft the
people, at Albany, is very great, but that of the
Albanians againft the EngHJb Is carried to a ten
times higher degree. This hatred has^fubfifted
ever fince the time when the E«^///2> conquered
this country, and is not yet extinguifhcd, tho'
they could never have got fuch advantages un-
der the Dutch government, as they have ob-
tained under that of the Englifi*. For, in a
manner, their privileges are greater. .than ihofe
oi Englijhmen, ■ ..-., ^^ .,

'The inhabitants of yilbany are. much more
fparing than the ^»g-/^. The meat which is
ferved up is , often infufHcient to fatisfy the
Aotnach, and the bowl doc$ not circulate fo
freely as amongfl the Englip, The women arc

>^c«- «,•»,-•

• Mr. Kalm publilhed this third volume juH during the time of
the laft war, F.

pCf.

queue,
teriftlcs;
i:i a bag
1 was fu

Frenchm>

puJl at rr

Thei]

very diffi

breakfaft

thirty or

them, a n^

and buttc

put fugar

it into t\n

with the

flices of hi

they breai

dinner is

they fomet

difli for tj

boiled or r(

ufe of buttc

a thin kind

^o"r, but r

each dinnei

ed with abu

"yoii. xh

-Albany, '

negroes. Some of the !ni?l-. "'" **'* ^h'«fly
own hair, but it hvry^ff''T '^"^ ^'^
q»=..e. which are LoLJ un7'"'°"! * ''^S «^

in a bag ,he firft day I came Z! Z°'^ ""y ^''"^

puJl^at my Fre.c/!7cl ''"'''-« offered to

verJSen^mlbarofT 'l' '^"'^"S ^^ '«
breakfaft i,, ,ea. common.^ ' '.! ^"'^"'^^- Their
thirty or forty yearT a^o ^ 7"^""' """^- About

'hem, and tiley b eaSed'' -7' ""'^"°^" ">
-'i butter. or^.:j J'' -J- "^-n bread
put fugar into the cim h. , ^hey never

« into^heir mooThr^hi ft\ f/d'- 1*" ''" °'
with the tea thev ,..^T j ^ ''""'^- Along
fa of hung beF kr -""^ butter, ^itf

they breakfaft generalh, N " "°' "''"^I here ; .
rfinnpr ;, 1 6'=neraily about feven Tu ■
o'nner is butter-milk and f, T ^heir

they fometimes add f Lr th ^"^■' '° ^'''^''
'"ft for them, or frf^' ^? " '^ « 'delicious

hoiled or roafted fle/h T? V""^ ^^""^^ o^

"ft of butter-milk infte.-idT/? '''metimes make

'thin kind of norr df. .f ^"? "'"'• to boil

K"-. but not dSf bTe •h"'''^'' '^«« very

"ch dinner they W ^"' '^'^ther. To

|:^with abundant tfWnLrif'«^'.P-Par-

"OOli,

They frequently e-aTbu:;er.-7k;'^;!:.dT

end

ji|.|iHii

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June 1749.

and fallad, one mouthful after another. Their
fuppcr is generally bread and butter, and milk
and bread. They ibmetimes eat cheefc at
breakfaft, and at dinner ; it is not in flices, but
fcraped or rafpcd, fo as to pefemble coarfe flour,
which they pretend adds to the good tafte of
eheefe. They commonly drink very fmall beer,

or-pure wateriiv,i,5i^.i, av-^^-'^ •

The governor of iST^w Tork often confers at
Jli^any with the Indians of the Five Nations/
or the Iroquefe, (Mohawks, Senekas, Cayngaws,
Onondagoes, and OnidoesJ efpecially when they
intend either to make war upon, or to continue
a war againft the French. Sometimes their
deliberations likewife turn upon their converfion
to the chriftian religion, and it appears by the
anfwer of one of the Indian chiefs, or Sachems,
to governor Huntery at a conference in this town,
that the EngHJh do not pay fo much attention
to a work of fo much confequence as the French
do, and that they do not fend fuch able men
to inftrua the Indians as they ought to do*.

• Mr. Kalm is, I believe, not right informed. The French
ecclefiaft^c? have allured fomc few wretched Ind^am to their rchgioi
and intcreft. and fettled them in fmall villages ; but by the account,
of their behaviour in the feveral wars of xh^trcmh ^nA Enghjh.
they were always guilty of the greateft. cruelties and brutalities;
and more fo than their heathen countrymen ; ard therefore it fecms
that they have been rather perverted ^^^an ':on verted. On th
other hand, the E.^l^/b have traodated the Bible into jje langu
of the>;r^/«m« Indians, and converted many of them to he
true knowledge of Ofd ; and at this prcfent tu-ne, the /«i.-^« cha-
rityfchools, andmiOlors, conduced, by the Rev Mr. £W
wlclock. have brought numbers of the Muun to the kno^^
of the true God. The foclety ror propngatmg the gofpel .
foreign parts, fends every year many m>ffionaries, at their own

1... r..j-l...' A.,A tl,f M.yai^Lm Bnthren zrenliol

••— •ristiCITli, Jl»<*—

very aftive in the ccnvcrnon oi Gcniikn io ih^ '^ ^'' ^'^"^^,

- rof

of her M.Jea,-f/ood!wTTn J ;-fS"r^"

for theirldZfj'-^.lt^^^^^^^^

their fouls, by thetre.r^-' f?'^"' '" ""^^n

that toMsiZJZt^-^f'''' ^"-ff''-' "'"i

fcarce ended. <vbe„ ZToi 2! S7 1""^
got up. and anfwered. that t T "'''""'
the Indians, he thank^} !i- ^^' ""'"' tf ^U

hadfome among them, (whom he \^l c "'"^'^^
wlw injlead of treachh,T^ "el'lie wife named)

t^ quarrel amng themfdves It.^ '^""' ''"^
the governor to fot.T u "* '^*" entreated

'Jem .. for before the/,v^re com? ^'^ '"?"«'*

adr™ith/ar;ga'';t'tr,irt^e'''^^'

fo^ge .on, in which they UretSn^ced?

t*«,1 o" ^J'/V^i^^r."^/""! "■« *0"'d have ,-„d„,„,^_:,.
|*e lni..ns. f .- -' ■'••■' "•'"^'"' "" f ™p,£a.i„£ The lorp^l'Ii^;';

The

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108

'June 1749.

The governor could not forbear laughing at this
tjxtraordinary fpeech. I think the words of St.
Faul not wholly unapplicable on this occaf^on :
For the name of God is blafphemed amongft the
Gentiles t through you -f.

June 2 1 ft. About five o'clock in the after-
noon we left Albany^ and proceeded towards
Canada, We had two men with us, who were
to accompany us to the firft French place, which
is Fort St. Frederick^ or as the Englijh call it,
Crown Point, For this fervice each of them was
to receive five pounds of New York currency,
befides which I was to provide them with
viduals. This is the common price here, and
he that does not choofe to conform to it, is obli-
ged to travel alone. We were forced to take up
with a canoe *, as we could get neither battoes,
nor bo^ts of bark ; and as there vi^as a good road
along the weft fide of the river Hudfon, we left
the men to row forwards, in the canoe, and we
went along it on the (hore, that we might be
better able to examine it, and its curiofities,
with greater accuracy. It is very incommodious
to row in thefe canoes; for one ftands at each end
and puihes the boat forwards. They commonly
keep clofe to the (liore, that they may he able
to reach the ground eafily. Thus the rowers arc
forced to ftand upright, whilft they rov/ in a
canoe. We kept along the ihore all the evening,
towards the river, it confifted of great hills, and
next to the water grew the trees, which I havej
above mentioned, and whichlikewifearetobemet

See thedefcriptionof it. p. 8|.

W

ith

Between Albany and Saratoga. ,09

with on the fliores of the ifle in ,I„ ,•
below Albany. The ilS ft re Z^'^^T-^''

been broade^r. For he e it ""n"" '^''^ ^°^'""'x
the corn-fields, at abonr 1 ^^P'^S '''"k on
from the river whh wh h • ."^ y*'"^' '^'«''n«^e
Fron. this i.'iS'^J' J' ; 77-"- ^^

ground formerly was the fhnri ;,/ .f '^^ "'^"S
tie corn-fielda its bed yS^f ^ """•' »"d

n>ay be added. ,hat the fam ftdhwhU'T'' !!
on the prefent Ihorc^f ,1"^.'^^"* which abound

plied to^any ufe bv^e jnff T'' '"^ "^^ "»' ^P"
Itattered on^h S, r "'""' 'j' P'^"tif""y
this change w:f o!S;ne bTthl S^S''"

ettTortttf^^d"^^^'^^^^^^^^^^

fields of flax whirh ^'" "'•'■^^^ great

flower. Infone pans T' """^ ''^«''""i4 to

in others it- waTL'^^^'Sd ff^;°„7 "^r^"' ^"'^
droueht which \o.a ""'""^"t. The exceiBve

fprinl had puS ed n "," "'*^ '''^'^"ghout this

plant than xhFZi:^^ Tf,'"' ""t"' ^'''^

napfu. Linn.J XhT fa w r (^^Z^"/'-""

on the drieil LT^^,l l^^ '"""' P'^""'
-- ..-6.-W1 uilk, growing in fpitc

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of the parching heat of the fun, and though the
paftares and meadows Were' txccflively poor,
and afForded fcarce any food at al), yet the cattle
never touched t\\t Mullein, Now and then I
found fields with peafe, but the Chdrlbck (Sina-
fis arvinfis Lirni. J ktpt thernxjui'te under. The
foil in mofl of theie fieids is k fine ihould, which
goes^prctty d^ep;^' '■"'-■■'" •* ''' "' '-

The' wild Vinc^' teveir'ill the hills alortg the
rivers, on <whlch no other plants groit", dnd on
thofe which «<re covered with trce<?, they climb
to the tops of thetn,' and wholly cover them,
making them bend down with" their weight.
They had already large grapes-; we faw them'
abundant all this day, and during all thic time
that we kept to the river Hucifoti, oii ihk h'^Ws,

along the ihores, and on fome little iflands in

the rivbr. ■ '■:.'i^ii^}iii%-''*ifiMU':^^ii'i-'^^''i-i^'''

Th£ white-hacked Maize'thleves appeared
now and tiien, flying amongft the baflies : their
notc'is fine, and- they are not fo large as the
black mai2e-thie?es, {OrioJus Phcenicms), We
faw them near N^w Torky for the firft time'. '• '^

We found a Water-beech tree f Plat anus occi-
dent alts) cut doWn near the road, meafiiring
about five feet in diamcter/^*^' '

This day, atid for fome days afterwards, we
met with iflands in the river. The larger ones
were cultivated^ and turned into corn-fields and
meadows.

We walked about five Ejiglijh miles along the
fiver to-day, and found the ground, during that
time, very uniform, and confiding of pure earth.
The Red Maple, the Water-beech, the Water-
• ' afp,

between Albany and Saratoga. , , ,

,fp. the vviJd Prune-tree, the Sumach the Elm
(he wild Vuies, and fomc fpecies of W n '
were the trees which we met whh on 1 IT''
Aores of the river, where foml Ar " ''^''^

We pafl-cd .he ^ight about fi. ^^ toi^
A«j ma countryman's cottage. OntLZt

a^thUtSTb'rhlTr" V"^ -' ^^^^

^..^fettlers^it'lf/Jtrc^Sl^^^^^^^^
grounds. About half an ELmZTl. ""f

our lodgings, was the place w£ the iH/r"*
in the river Hudfen thi^r» L- , , ^°P*

Mow ftre^Tal'ove t Kr^f''"' J""*
ca.h a good .any fortes if'^lnt ^ ""^

middle was the thre^L fl "l' ^°' '" '»>«
for the hay and ftraw ' nJ ' ^'^ " " P'"*^^

korho.fejeows,"rd 0 lr„,;t 'JheT"
itfelf was verv hrc^ q^ *»'"mais. The barn

in .he cou.4fc„rir t;: i-^^s^*

J June 22d» Tf^TC rr»rw.«- ^^'»r\^

o4ides to thlwa'^er^aTfeaVfr' °"\°'
"ver^ M^/;«^^, , before r fji!^- f"'^""' '" ''^

fe«. ThiV failt aboutL: £ 'r^ "7

from .he.place where I paffld the Slf Th"

Icountry t the fall ic o " '"= "'gjit. The

kutL ft litfef Th^ "-r.'' °"'^ ^""^
(noft place- and L •'!°'*^ *' ''"^^^ '«

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The CohoesFall is one of the grcateft in North
America. It is in the river Mohaivkt before it
unites with the r'ver Htidfon, Above a^nd below
the fall, the fides and the bottom of the river
confifl of hard rock. The river is three hun-
dred yards broad here. At the fall there is a
rock crolTways in the river, running every where
equally high, and crofling in a ftrait line with
the fide which fornns the fall. It reprefents, as
it were, a wall towards the Ipwer iidc, whi^h
is not quite perpendicular, wanting about four
yards. The height of this wall, over which
the water rolls, appeared to mc about twenty or
iwenty^four yards. I had marked this height
in my pocket-book ; and afterwards found it
agreed pretty well with th^ account, which that
ingenious engineer, Mr. Lewis Evans, commu-
nicated to me at Philadelphia* He faid, that he
had geometrically meafured th$ breadth and
height of the fall, and; found it nine hundred
Englijh feet broad, and feventy.-fiv;e feet high.
The rcprefentation of this fall, wh^^h is here
joined, has been made by Mr. Evans* There
was very little water in the river at prefcnt, and
it only ran over the fall in a few places. In
fuch places where the water had rolkd down
before, it ha<l cut deep holes below into the
rock, fometimcs tp the depth of two or three
fathoms. The bed of the riw^r, below the fall,
was of rock, and quite dry, there being only a
channel in the middle fourteen feet broad, and!
a fathom or fomewhat more deep, through
which the water paffed which came over thel
fall. We faw a number of holes in the rock,|

btlov

^'f-^'^en many and Saroto^a. ,„
Deiow the fall ,«U' £'1^- ^

or Mountain Sks tE '"V^" ^'^'^ ^"'1
•here being I,ree dlln ^'^ ^'^''"'^ in fize •
ones, wf hT ct? S^''"'' ^«.^11 aaJIo^
not a cloud aboveThe ??"■"?'?*' fun-fhine,
^". Howeverc ofe l T" f 1? "^^ ^'"^ «
water was in fuch a fmln • ' '^'"''* ">«

a continual driz'llL^S IT';^^' ^^"« ^«
vapours which rofe frlm k "'^''"'* •'X «»"■
fall, and were carr^l!i u ® '^* ^«« Murine its
fore, in comi„rw4b°'''''^*i''^'"<^-T*ie.

« on". « from f Par tS' ^"f.^'etted
which xvere in the w,? i. , ^''*' w^'r -pools,
•--d ftveral &Vft°" t 1*"' ^°"-
wugbt by fomc people „h„' ^nd t^ej, ^^^^
W'th angling. ^^1' Z^ ^T^"^ themfclves
['ft of tife ffrte wTdc S' ''"«''0"t« con-
hills about ^I6,„y %tr.^^f ^""^^ '^^
« is apt to fliiver int„ 7 • *''P°''<^ «° »he air.
does. -^ - >^ " '^'f;i?'°^0"zontal fl^^^^^ as q^

iftT noon wfe cohtifiii^/»fef"' •' 'jf r -!
>n the crttje.''w4rwt h t-'?^'"'^^ '° f''^«'''^'»
o^tofa whirebi^e Sff^R"^!?"^" "sna made
where w*.,a/- J ^j^^-^f^ftateyondtfte farm

every whbre ^ With^h^i^'^J i " v^ /% .g-"^"" J
F«* not' ab<>ve two f^t aS fe Jl ^""^ '> ^^«<=
foot deep. The ftore aSlelf a"/"" ^"' °"«
of find and pebbles Th^ ,t *^{F*' "''er confifted
"gainft us; fo th t ;ur rowrr' ^7 rapid, and
^rfc to get forward aSth^""*^ " ""y ^'ard
VOL. il. ^-..wy ui foiij and were

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jfutie 1749

very high and fteep in fomc parts. The breadth
of the river was generally near two muikct-fhot.
Sturgeons abound in the river Hudfon We
faw them for feveral days together leap high up
into the air, efpecially in the evening; our
guides, and the people who lived hereabouts,
afTerted that they never fee any ilurgeons in
winter time, becaufe thefc fifli go into the fet
late in autumn, but come up again in fpring
and ftay in the river all the fummer. They are
faid to prefer the (hallowcft places in the river,
which agreed pretty well with our obfervations ;
for we never faw them leap out of the water but
in (hallows. Their food is faid to be feveral
kinds of confervce, which grow in plenty in
jbme places at the bottom of the river; for thefe
weeds are found in their bellies when they are
opened. The Dutch who are fettled here, and
the Indians t fi{h for ilurgeons, and every night of
our voyage upon this river, we obfervcd feveral
boats with people who (truck them with har-
poons. The torches which they employed were
made of that kind of pine, which they call the
black pine here. The nights were exceedingly
dark, though they were now (horteft, and though
we w^re in a country fo much to the South of
Sweden. The banks of the river lay covered
with dead fturgeons, which had been wounded
with the harpoon, but efcapjed, and died after-
wards I they occa(ioned an infupportable ftencb
during the exceflive heat of the weather.

As we went further up the river we faw an
Indian woman and her boy fitting in a boat of
bark, and an Indian wading through ihe river,

6 with

^''■<«^^n Albany ^„d Saratoga.

ber of Indian, » n,rfZ, *''-'* '"='■« « M«-
ilurgconfiftery, We 1^' T t'^^' °^ th«
if we co*ld get one of ,^! " "'"' *•"'» '» "■/
Port St. Fr'elZ, 0„ our^'^'TP*"^ ■" ^
'h»t aJl the men «^er. 1 ° • '"^'^ ''«' ^'""'d

boys , a go and look for Mem Tk'"^«* ""='''
bread for payment, and w^ aavT .I'^'"''"'^""'
Jittle round loavesr ■ for 7. I - "*"* 'w™ty
-"^ of great Jportarce J '^ ^°"/'' "'« i'

not go till we gave them . u V '"'' '^""'^

<"rned ic into corl-BM. \ ''''^- «''»«' ^^<1
bad leafed it to ,"eS " ^"L** P^«'"«"' 'h^y

buiJt ,l,eir huts or r,V °^ ■"'"<»"« «" 't. They
very fi.-plc ptn ^^""7" "'^ ''^^"^ °" «
ground ^rpendkuS '^ **' ""T- P"' '"'" '^e
placed p^esUndmS' °;rrir''f'' '^'y h^d
Tb.y h^d either „TvJ,/° III "t ''P°" "^^"'•
of branches wi:h iZHl ! u • u' "^'^ ^»"^>ft<^d
'".^.Po'- Their tei,5 -- fi«d to ■
winch were foread nn ,>,. . °* aeer-/k ns

W^ were a cCle "fl^L^irr'^', '^'''^'■^ "f^""

t'olc as to keep water Th- a ' ""''^ 'o

into !ong flicea, and hun, up t'ZT '7' ^"'
y. and to be ready agaifft Winter Th /'"J-'"

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crofs-lcggcd, as the Turks do, but between their
feet, which, though they be turned backwards,
arc not croflcd, but bent outwards. The wo-
men wear no head-drcfs, and have black hair.
They have a (hort blue petticoat, which reaches
to their knees, and the brim of which is border-
ed with red or other ribbands. They wear
their fhifts over their petticoats. They have
large car-rings ; and their hair is tied behind,
and wrapped in ribbands. Thtix Wampum, or
Pearls, and their money, which is made of
(hells, are tied round the neck, and hang down
on the brcaft. This is their whole drcfs. They
were now making feveral kinds of work of Ikins,
to which they fowed the quills of the American
Porcupines, having dyed them black or red, or
or left them in their original colour.

Towards evening, we went from hence to
a farm clofe to the river, where we found only
one man, looking after the maize and the fields;
the chief of the men not being then returned
from the war.

The little brooks here contain Crawfifli,
which are exactly the fame with ours *, with
this difference only, that they are fomewhat
Icfs } however, the Dutch inhabitants will not
eat them.

June 23d. We waited a good while for the
Indians, who had promifed to come home, in
order to (hew us the way to Fort St. Ann, and
to affift us in making a boat of bark, to continue
ou- voyage. About eight o'clock three of the

Cancer Ajlacus Linn,

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^''^"^ ^iany and Saralosa. '„^
^^ii arrived. TK-;,. u • ^

/hon ; they woj fouU " ^ r"^^'^' ""'' '«
of abnght green ^0^1' t'^T''"'^^'^'
fl"« which covers the^r' T i^"' 'Moulders, a
cloth, or /kins, wh ch S v S' ""''/'«« of
and part of the thighs Th u^ I!"""'* ">« 'ega
«ps. nor breeches.^ tJ'17>'^ "^"hcr batl
'h« "Pper part of thX foLi""^ ^'^ P^'"'*"!
cheeks, with vermiJion R ^"f *' ""'' 'heir
a ribband. fro.„ which hui\ '^''" ''''^ *«
breaft, containing, thet J„.v!s' ?h'°"" '° "><=
to accompany us for thir vftill- *^P.'°'"'''<=''
after changed their mind/ ti "^'' ^"""°on
%/j/««^«. who gavr hem '' ""^"' ^»h an
were obliged to mftl ,h- ^ "'°'^- Thus we

guides, wlo werrtwevir°"h '^ ^"''°"' "''"'
return us fifteen ftilhW ^ l^?''* ^"°"8h to
them before-hand. ^' ^^'''^ ^'^ had paid

l!fi miles fron/£«'"g;^^ ^hot,t ten E„s.

treated from theneetn!/'/ ''''""""' ^^ad re-
W 7„^W had taken o;k1r' n''.''"^^ '^e
they met with, fet the houft ' 'i '^^ P^°P'«
down the trees. ThLf^ ,°" ^'■«' and cut
•ants returned, they found ' \^'" ""^ "^•'■■^bi-
, forced ,0 ]y Mde/a fe i!° ^°"'"' ^"'i were
\ huddled together "^ ^°''"^' ^^icb were

!-S ?olJI tth'/de'^"-'^- •'-''.

hdls near^he river wer/fr ^^k'^'- ^^e

Y Pa'e colour. "P* '"'^ the earth of

The American Elder ^c^ z

J " (^"mbucus occidenta-

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lis ^J grows in incredibk quantitiet akng thofc
laills, which appear qtiite white, from the abun-
4anpe pf Bowers on the Elder.

Aj-L this day along, we had one current after
after another, full of ftones, which were gr^at
obilacles to our getting forward. The water
in the river was very clear, and generally /hal-
low, being only from two to four feet deep,
running very violently againft us in mod places.
The ihore was covered with pebbles, and a grey
fand. The hills coniifted of earth, were high,
and ftpod perpendicular towards the river, which
was near two mufket-fhot broad. Sometimes
the land was cultivated, and fometimes it was
covered with woods.

The bills near the river abound with red and
white cjover. We found both thefe kinds
plentiful in the woods. It is therefore difficult
to determine whether they were brought over
by the Europeans, as fome people think ; or
whether they were originally in America, which
the Indians deny.

We found Purflane (Portulaca oieracea)
growing plentiiully in a fandy foil. In gardens
it was one of the worft weeds.

We found people returning every where to
their habitations, which they had been forced
to leave during the war.
, The farms were commonly built clofe to
the liver, on the hills. Each houfe has a little
kitchen-garden, and a ftill leffer orchard. Some
farms, however, had large gardens. The

* SAwhurut l./in/i/}et}ftt I Smu

kitchen-

other r/^/^^«

kitchen-gardens afford fevcMl f j . '

water-melons, and kidl2t^f' J^U^'^^i'.
ards are full of apple-tree/ tk- ^^* °'<^''-
had fcv or no appl« on • '"' ^'" "'^ '«es
nights which had'^ha;oe„ fr""*,:^^ '^' ^'°«y
'Jrought which had cE. ;"u^''-^' ""<* 'h«
fummer. continued throughout this

The houfes hereahnnf,
of beams of wood? and of /[' ^'T'^b builjt
by the fun and^ri tf'^T ^'''^' <^'''<i
erefted, and upon them a oi. • l"' ^''^ ^--ft
and the fpars/ Ti^e w.n^ '''l*"'' '^° '^"IJs,
of boards: The roof? °" "\^ g^^Je is made

of fir. Theymake tL Jjw' T"' '^'■"S^"
between the beams, to wX''"^"' ''"■^^^•
and that they mieht nnr '^ r Z'""'"' "'^rmerj
rain and air. thlf L "^'/ ''^ "'^'^y^d by

the outfide. ' Th7ce L'"' K '. ""'"' '"'"''» °«

The farms are Ik V'.H°"' '"^^ h°"fe.
fide. oronSe hU to h"-''°'"^ '° ">« "ver-
are large fields Sm^aTze"''^ '"' ^~""'' "^<='»

^here they had-'mTny hot'!-! °^ '''^ "-r.

With the furface of the wa.e ' rZr k", ' ^'''^

arge enough to admit a ki ien p ^'" ^^^«

the entrance to the hoL I ^^^°'^ ""^ '"

by the Mujk-Rats * J"'"'^'* ^ad been eaten
placed along the w'aterS Th'".^"?' '" '^^P'
fome maize or apples ' '^ Waited with

--- — -". — "£ .iW«/, or Reeds, "and

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June 1749.

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The Sajfafras-trees abound here, but never
grow to any confidcrable height, '^' '- -

Chesnut-trees appear now and then.

The Cock/pur Hawthorn (Cratagus Crus
Gain L/ltt«.) grows in the pooreft foil, and has
very long fpines ; which fliews, that it may be
very advantageoufly planted in hedges, efpecially
in a poor foil.

This night we lodged with a farmer, who
had returned to his farm after the war was over.
All his buildings, except the great barn, were
burnt.

June 24th. The farm where we paffed the
night was the laft in the province of New Tork,
towards Canada, which had been left ftanding,
and which was now inhabited. Further on,
we met flill with inhabitants : but they had no
houfes, and lived in huts of boards ; the houfes
being burnt during the war.

As we continued our journey, we obferved
the country on both fides of the river to be ge-
nerally flat, but fometimes hilly ; and large
tradts of it are cohered with woods of fir-trees,
Now and then we found fome parts turned into
corn-fields and meadows ; however, the greater
part was covered with woods. Ever fince we
left Alb any y almoft half-way to Saratoga, the
river runs very rapid J and it cod us a deal of
pains to get upwards. But afterwards it be-
comes very deep, for the fpace of feveral miles \
and the water moves very flowly. The fhores
are very ftecp, though they are not very high.
The river is two mufket-fliot broad. In the
afternoon it changed its diredlion ; for hitherto

" . • , its

^ontaneou

plantations

The w

were extre

The n

, the fhores c

! before.

The tre(
oi^the adjai
I are elms, *bi
[lime-trees, r
\ American E
[and i\it wild

^''^"» Many and Saratoga.

its direaion was from North ♦/. c t. r

it came from N. N. E to S ^ w '^' ^"^ "°^

times from N. E to S W ^""^ ^^^^^^

with our common red ones rp "'•"^ "^^' ^*'««
The Ant-hills conmchin T''u'"f'' ^'"''■)
niouldered fton. which at, ^/l "'" ^^'^'^^^
ing nothing elfe for {hem ^'''' '^''^ ^'^-

woods. We Ire toM^T ^^^'^^^^ ''» the
fMorusruirlltnvk^^'} Mulberry - trees
b«t rather fcarce and h-.^\8'°'^ '^'W here.
\ place where the; gtowin'J?'^ »oft norther!
they have not htln^Z^'"/''"'" « 'eaft,
north. We met wfth wJr"^ /""''^^ "> 'he'
but commonly in T"ch nt^^'^'P^ everyday;
W-. or had Vn! ciltfv el "h' ""^ '^""^
fctS^-''^"^-aS„dat?„erX

before. "^^'- ^ ^<"^.. "ot feen it therf

- elms, -birches. whitrS" alters''!' '°-''^^'

bme-trees. red willows and t'h r ' '^^S'tfees,

K«fwa» Elder iZt ''''^^""t-trees. The

H 'he wifd V Les Sff"^ ^''^'"^^«> -'^««.)
Ithe ?ro..nH (,„„ " .'• °"> appear m places wh.rX

I " ""■••' ""' "''" ^'^mewhat cultivated, as'if

they

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122

June 1749.

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they were dciirous of being the companions of
men. The lime-trees and white walnut-trees
are the moft numerous. The horn-beams,
with inflated cones, (Carpinus OJirya Linn.)
appeared now and then 5 but the water-beech
and water-poplar never came within fight any
more.

We frequently faw ground-fquirrcls and
black fquirreJs in the woods.

At a little diflance from Saratoga^ we met
two Indians in their boats of bark, which could
fcarce contain more than one perfon.

Near Saratoga the river becomes (hallow
and rapid again. The ground is here turned
into corn-fields and meadows, but on account
of the war, it was not made ufe of.

Saratoga has been a fort built of wood
by the Englijh, to flop the attacks of the French
Indians upon the Englifi inhabitants in thefc
parts, and to ferve as a rampart to Many, Iti«
fiiuated on a hill, on the eaft-fide of the river
Hudfon, and is built of thick ports driven into
the ground, clofe to each other, in the manner
of palifades, forming a fquare, the length of
whofe fides was within the reach of a mufket-
fhot. At each corner are the houfes of the
officers, and within the palifades are the bar-
racks, all of timber. This fort has been kept
in order and was garrifoned till the laft war,
when the Englijh themfelves in 1747 fet fire to
it, not being able to defend themfelves in it
againft the attacks of the French and their In-
dians 5 for as foon as a party of them went out
of the fort, fome of thefe enemies lay concealed,

and!

.nd^eUher took then, nil pHfoncr., or Aot

both .YEn,liJk a^dVSwtw^l^e^Sl

ri yiiu ^^^^\x Indians. zonce^\f.A ^t '

felves one night in a thicket near the fort 7"

pretended to be wounded fell^ln'J ""^

"gain, ran a little wav anH ^ '. S°' >=?

Above half the gardfrr^rl^rSX'"-
prifoners ; but as foon a«! fh.,? ^^^"*

with then,, the P.:::? a d' hrre^ainr /^
J.». came out of the bnfhes, be vTx "thffnr"
treis and the 'Ptirrlia. r •-"-•■vvixc me tor-

took then, prifSf ' Thofrlf '^ "'^'"' ^"^

'he fort had^arS ; ;imrfot«?.f *'"' '"
cou d they fire unnn ^ "^ S^tes, nor

equally eCKy t::::;^en'T:t ''^^

their cannon s5b"r '''"; ''s'^*- ^"^ under

'(!,„„. -r. .^^* generally cut down Tk,
^ •■-" - ««^ nver are high, fteep. and confiftTf

earth.

j.

f ; Br

'!'.

:|

•H (Mi

!'.:

I t!' 'M

, I;

: I!'

! I * i !

1 r '

'f;

fci i ,:

Iff' -I

111

t.??

3-f:

fi' ■'

124

yune 1749.

mi

V ,>

earth. We faw fome hills in the nofth, be-
yond the diftant foreft. The inhabitants arc
JDutc/i, and bear an inveterate hatred to sM Eng^
lifhmen.

We lay over night in a little hut of hoards
created by the people who were come to live
here.

June 25th. Several faw-mills were built
here before the war, which were very profitable
to the inhabitants, on account of the abundance
of wood which grows here.

.The boards were eafily brought to Albam^
and from thence to New Torkt in rafts every
fpring with the high water; but all the mills
were burnt at prefcnt.

This morning we proceeded up the river,
but pfter we had advanced about an Englijh mile,
we fell in with a water- fall, which coft us a
deal of pains before we could get our canoe
over it. The water was very deep juft below
the fall, owing to its hollowing the rock out by
the fall. In every place where we met with
rocks in the river, we found the water very
deep, from two to four fathoms and upwards;
becaufe by finding a refiftance it had worked a
deeper channel into the ground. Above the fall,
the river is very deep again, the water Hides
along filently, and increafes fuddenly near the
ihores. On both fides, till you come to Fort
Nicholfon, the fhore is covered with tall trees.
After rowing feveral miles, we pafled another
water-fall, which is longer and more dangerous
than the preceding one.

GlANTS-

"« is the

ill

th, be-
nts arc
M Eng"

' boards
to live

re built
ofitable
indance

Albanjt
:s every
le , mills

e river,
'fh mile,
ift us a
r canoe
\ below
out by
It with
er very
(Wards j j
orked a
the fall,
r Hides
ear the
to Fort
1 trees.
another
igerous

.he memoirs of .he Royaul ^ ft'"^'' '"
Sciences, are abundant near tS i"!''"^ °^

% efther /ones or 'rie rTh°^'"°'* °f "'^^
were fifteen inches if • ^"""ndance. Some

'«r. Their'd?prh 1 TSe';'/°- -"
feme that / obferved were 1 ^'^^ent. and

fti? plain that th'yZltZr'"'°'°''' ''^?-
whirling of the water rounHuL,"^'" '° the
•hat means was put in m." P'''"'^' ^^W' by
the fand. ^ ' '" """"on. together with

iVi2f.«r„^t^?noe?whTh r u".P '°^°^»
a great convenience to u, \ '^ '^^^« been
impoffible to get over^h ' *"" ^« ^ound it
teing heavy, afd' fJa" t vT'-' ''!'' *^ ""°«
'.vcept in one place whrY h fl" "'. '^'^ "^^••.
rock, and where it was it^onffiKi °""'* °'" t^'e
Recount of the fteepne/s aff Si' '", ^^^ "P' o™
fall. We were according vnM 'f '""^^ ^^ 'he
"noehere. and to carrv ? ^'^ ° ^""= °"^
Nnfrequen.ed woods Xo FoTJ"""^^^^^ '^'°''&^
B'M, which isafpacefr%°" ''^^ "'^^
«% -E^yi^ miles, durinrwh-7 '^"^-'hree to

their

m "f

'if:!

' s

fj

■ii

Jl

*l!i

^'i.i . i

126

June 1749.

'*:

their banks, and throwing them acroft the
-water. AH the land we palled over this after-
noon was almofl level, without hills and ftones,
and entirely covered with a tali and thick forcft,
in which we continually met with trees which
were fallen down, becaufe lo one made the leaft
life of the woods. We paffed the next night in
the midft of the foreft, plagued with muikitoes,
gnats, and wood-lice, and in fear of all kinds of
ihakes.

June 26th. Early this morning we con-
tinned cur journey through the wood, along the
river Hudjhn. There was an old prath leading
to Fort Nicholfon, but it was fo overgrown with
grafs, that wc difcovcred it with great diffical-
ty. In fome places we found plenty of rajp^
berries.

Fort Nicholfon is the place on the eaftern
fhore of the river Hudfon, where a wooden for-
tification formerly flood. We arrived here
fome time before noon, and refted a while.
Colonel Lydius rcfided here till the beginning
of the laft war, chiefly with a view of carrying
on a greater trade with the French Indians y but
during the war, they burnt his houfe, and took
his fon prifoner. The fort was fituated on a,
plain, but at prcfent the place is all overgrown 1
V ith a thicket. It was built in the year 1709^
daring the war which C^nztn Amie carried on I
sgainll the French, and it was named after the
brave Englijh general Nicholfon* It was not lb
much a fort, as a magazine to Fort Anne. In
the year 171 1, when ih^ Englijh naval attempt
upon Canada mifcarried, the Englijh themfelvcsl

fctl

Tofs the
lis after-
d ftoRes,
:k forcft,
es which
the lead
night in
uikitoes,
kinds of

we con.
ilong the
1 leading
'wn with
diffical-
of rqfp^

B caftern
)den for-
ced here
a while,
beginning
" carryiog
arts', but
and took
ted on a
^ergrown
sar 1709^
arried onj
after the
ras not lb
'nne. In
i attempt
lemfelvcs
fct

^^'^een Nichlfotf and Anne.

W\

fct lire tv-) this olar^ Tk^ r -i ,

"v 'crni, ana Went E M u xt J,
acrofs the woods, in order 7„ ■"• E- or N. E.

per end of the riv«V J z *''"** ''^ '»»» up-

boat from the former £» %?^''' S" in ,
paired over this afterno^ ^^^ «'°""d we
and fomewhat W 8°° ^-""^ ^"'"''"^ ««'

country was evl vrhe !/ "°^'*<'"«' «•"! the
.hick Lefts. Th t eesT'!?'^ T> '^" ""^
forded a fine ftade ■ bu, I, ,'' ''°'^' '""^ "f-
enjoyed from ft ta's lekn!,''^^1'' ""^'^ ^^
quantity of gaais which fil?H ^ "'^ '"^^^diblc
found feveral p antlhere 1 . l''* ^°°'^^- ^e
each other, (a^s Tn our wio^ """r^^^ ^"^ f^""*

havedeftroy^.bl) .hH' '^''"'^ '''^ "«'«
here. The grou,^ Va, ^^'^ "° ^?"J« «-« came

^ered with lives of the Jaft? , ''*•"' '^''^ ^°-
Pl^ces we found thferolr """• *"" ^°'»«
great quantities of i^Th °Tg^°^" with
)y very good, confiftin; of ! f """ ^'f^''^'-
)v -cb the plants thrivf very wei'^ ^r'*^:- *"
"(eems that it would anfwe7vel^ , JJ'.''"^''«
cultivated: however T.f^ "^"^^ ^^J' »f 't were

fcarce hereabout a^difT^ '"'"^" ^^^= ^^--r

.'J. bow great woui t' be :ir:?rr^ ^•'^'^-
«g heat of the fun »h; i. , °^ '''<= Parcb-
<s full forcer "'' ""S^' «hea ad with

W

E

■I

' till

lii

M

t!'; ,' =

;.

:^!*t'(f] ^^i

f ,-

■( 'f

i: I,
'■ f

i :, J li

■iii

23

June 1749.

i U'

'iiiif I:

We lodged this night near a hrooki in order
to be Jiadicicntlj fupphed with water, which
was not every where at hand during this ieafon.
^he muOutoeSy panchiQs. or gnati, and the
woodlicc, were ycf)r troublcfomc^ Our fear of
fnakcs^'aQd oithzJiadianst rendcrftd thia night's
reft .v£fy puecarioufi and unfccucc. , ^

';JPuNCHiNsy; as. tKd i^tt/M call. them, arc the
litUe gnats (CuleKpuiicartsJLmn.j which abound
here. They are, very awnute,. and their wings
grey, wiih black lpots» They are ten times
worfe than thchrgctoaGSf /Culex pifiens Lim.)
cr mufkitocsj for; their fizc .renders them next
to iniperceptiblc ; they are evci«y where carelefs
of their liveSf fuck their £11 of blood, and caufe
a burning pain. ..t-j g,^^j. ^j^^^ ^ -.-^rh
,^ .We heard fcveral great trees fall of them-
felvea in the night, though it .was fo calm, that
not a ksf flirrcd. jTJxcymade a dreadful crack-

**#g-t-. »».,«v»rr t^nrt'T' f-'pr-^l i f*.**^ '^•Oi'» •%f;t ^

x^.^une 27th, "Wx. continued pur* journey in
the morning. ; We found the country like that
which we paifed over yefterday, except meet-
ing with. iftwWls^ ^^''^y tlil«! niorningwc
plainly hear(J,a;|^I)L jn the river Hudfan,

In every* part of the foreft we found treeJ
thrown down -.either, by ftorms, or aee: but
none vifjgre .cut -idown^ there being no inhabi-
tant S|. and iko ugh the, wo^^^ is- very fine, yet no-
body tnaKeii tifs^^ li. n We found it very dif-
IScjaTttp get" oyer Yuch trees, becaufe they had
flopped up alnioft all the paffages, and clofe to
them was the chief reiidence of raitle-fnakes,
during the intenfenefs of the heat.

About

titFbi
<vhich

fefook.

in ordi

there \

Fort S

time, f

and coi

burther

been ob

/jave pu

viiions <

from th<

not hav<

than thn

the wiih

to nd an

ABotri

ttikc, of 1

^\y the 0

to tht fori

when it v^

We m,

tvhich wei

m a good (

June 2[

Americana
^orcfts here
One was ca
the inridt oi
Plentiful th
caiied the i^
Wood was r«

n order
which
feafon.

nd the
fear of
night's

are the
abound
r wings
n times
sLinn.)
:m next
carelefs
id caufe

them-
Im, that
I crack-

Pori uinm.

H^

^^ Jon Anne. iflSunon^r''^^^

in order to ma J a ne^bfat "rl'^^'^^ "^^^
^bcre was r,o poffibijftv w ° / ^''^' ^^^"^^^
Fort St. i^^Xir'Shouf^t W^ "^^^ '-
""J^. for one of our ^u des k/r"^' "'"'"^ ''^
and could not have Inn. i" '^'^ morning,

burthen. Jf be ^ b\en "?r ^""''^1 '''^ ^-
been obliged to ftop on his 3^00?'.'^' ^^'^''^ ^^^«
•^«ve put us under /rea/d.ffiT"> '^^"'''' ^°"^d
vifions would foon^have f/. '''L '' ""^ P^°-
^rom the defart place X, 1" '*^'"^^^' ^'^^
"othave arrived ararvTnbrv'^r'. ^^^^^^^
than three or four days^ hL -f^ ^'^^^ '*" lefs
the wiih'd.for place and #h r ^/ ^ "^^ '"'^^^^
to f ert and recover! *" ^'^ '"^'^ ^^d time

AboITT Fort j4^*,^ /.

'" ^good condition; ^ ^ 5^*'" '''« ^wt was
June aSth, The ,*», •

forefts hereabouts Th ^''"ndance. i„ the

,^«:-canerLS;:i"'-°^-''-fir!
'he infide of the tre^ h- "T • ' **" account of

P'fn"fuJ than the othe? r'^' ''• '' '^^ '"°«
"'Wthei?,^£,^ beIr''T"' ^'"■^h ^«
'^;°<^ was redd,5^^' O f tt\:\^ f °"' »f «he

FrkT TT ^^* ine Dark- nT «U.> c

''^ the

!i]

uiiri|i

PP

!fl

; . i

N

u\

I

if

If:

i ■Mil

H

II

m

1;;

-II

1 -

1
• ■

I

■ik

M.

130

yune 1749.

the boats made ufc of here are commonly made,
it befng tougher than the bark of any other tree^
With the bark of hiccory, which is employed
as baft, they fow the elm-bark together, and
with the bark of the red elm they join the ends
of the boat fo cbfe as to keep the water out.
They beat the bsrk between two ftoncs 5 or for
want of them, between two pieces of wood.

The making of the boat look up half yefter-
day, and all this day. To make fuch a boar,
they pick out a thick tall elm, with a fmooth
bark, and with as fevj; branches as pofllble.
This tree is cut down, and great care is taken to
prevent the bark from being hurt by falling
againft other trees, or againft the grounds With
this view Ibme pcoprle do not fell the trees, but
climb to the top of theni, fplit the bark, and
ilrip it off, which was the method our carpen-
ter took. The bark is fplit on one fide, in a
flrait line along the tree^ as long as tbe boat b
intended to be -, at the fame time, the bark is
carefully cut from the flcm a little way on both
ficiesof the flit, that it may more eafily feparatej
the bark is then pealed off very carefully, and
particular care is taken not to make any holes
into it J this is eafy when the fap is in the trees*
lirid at other fcafons* the tree is heated by the fire,
for that purpofe* The bark thus fljript off is
fpread on the ground, in a fmooth place, turning
the infide downwards, and the rough outfide
upwards, and to ftretch it better, fome logs of
wood or ftones are carefully put on it, whicb
prefs it down. Then the fides of the bark are
gently bent upwards, in order to form the fides

of

^ftfic boat : rnm- A- i . '^'

from each other ilT °^ '^" <"• ^our f„t
^^des of ,he boat retntS '"I' '" ^'"■^•'' '»'<»

^rfc are then bentTn he Irm ' ^* ^u''" "^ ">!
'' to have, and accord.vV„ . ""^'^ ""= ''°''t

tne boat are made of thiVt ^ l "' "^^ <>(
•hey being ,ough and pt b,?' tI"' ''■■'^^°'^-
into feveral flat piece, abo,!; • i^^ "" '•■"'
bent into the form wh/chX L""'' '^''^' '"^
"fd-ng to their pJa^e t 1\ "u^' ?<!'"><'. «c*
w^ver part of the boat R '• u™"*" ^^ ""-
are put acrofs the boat „ "^ '!"" '''"'' 'he*-
bottom, pretty clofe. ab'our'l"r "'^ ''^'^''' °^ ''^
from each other. The nl ^T' °' ''" '"^bes
"f the boat is made of ^£^ ."^^^ °" "^^ fide
'ength of the boa , wJ^ U? """ P°'«' of <hfc
«" the fide of the' boa Veinr^ f °fe to.-.her.
are to be Jofned. The.Z^f^' "'^e'e they
between, thefe two pC ' ^! °! '^ ''"'^ i^ P«t
threads of baft, of t'he ' . r ^'''^"^ "P '*"h
tough bark, or ^ith roo s But'hT'' '' °"'^^
fewed up. the ends of fL k '^°"= '^ '« 'hus
between the two pis ' u'rT ^''"^^'''e P«t
-keep them at fSr^^;::^,;^^^. '^^'•""--
Af er that is done, the do ^ r ""'' °'her,

and bein? bent nrL i ^ , " ^""^ f«>^'ed to^rethe.

'he LTt'at tEp.Th7;orf ' ''"^'-'dc'nln^^f

'hedi/iance of 'thir,? oT'e"fr^Vb«.°^her. at

'Kg'^'V'westromeach

other.

''Jiill

ii' y

I: ,V'

1- , I

' i i

132

JuHe 1749-

I -!k

I:: I

%iihM yi

Other* Thefe bands are tomrrionly made of
hiccor/, on account of its toughncfs and flexi-
bility, and have a good length. Their extremi-
ties are put through the bark on both fides*
juft below the poks, which make the edges ;
they are bent up above thofe poles, and twiftcd
round the middle part of the bands, where they
are carefully tied by ropes. As the bark at the
two ends of the boat cannot be put fo clofe to-
gether as to keep the water out, the crevices arc
-ftoppcd up with the cruihed or pounded bark of
the red elm, which in that ftate looks like oakum.
Some pieces of bark^re put upon the ribs in the
boat, without which the foot would eafily pierce
the thin and weak bark below, which forms the
bottom of the boat, for the better fecurity of
which, fome thin boards are commonly laid at
the bottom, which may be trod upon with more
fafety. The fide of the bark which has been
upon the wood, »hus becomes the outfide of the
boat, becaufe it is fmooth and flippy, and cuts
the water with lefs difficulty than the other.
The building of thefe boats is not always quick ;
for fometimes it happens that after peeling the
bark off an elm, and carefully examining it, it
is found pierced with holes and fplits, or it is
too thin to venture one's life in. In fuch a cafe
another elm mnft be looked outj and it fome-
timeS' happens that fcvcral elms muft be ftrippcd
of their bark, before one is found fit for a boat.
That which we made was big enough to bear
four perfons, with our baggage, which weighed
fomewhat more than z man.

All

^or-t Anne.

a boat of bark. For as f h. • '^^ P'"* '^''''

Mes. contain numbe'lof ^7:"' ^"'^^^^"'he

may eafily run afia'nVa^"'" T''""' '"^^ ''°«
wouWtMr half the !»' A^arp branch, which

veryfaft. expo' ng th^lor- '■^'"'' ™"^'' °"
ger, where ?he later ifvf !? " '"" «'"' ^"n*

i--h a branch heW .he boa? ^"^' ^'^'^'^"^ '^

without ales For'i fh^ 'i!' «'"'" ^"^-^'y-
more with a fudden^i^ '^°l'°''' ''"'^«'»
heel, may cafi ly nL '^u^ '"'? '^ ^oat, the

the boat/which E V °"?'' ""= ''°"°'" of
with ver;difa^ree?hE • '^""" ''« ""^nded
When the S 7o ":„ T""'?'^^""'. efpecialj;

a fudden depth of wa^r TS *r '^u"^'°'"« '° '^^
common in tL latra" d [ivTrs h'e' ^'"" '"

more"Sifri„ ty Z^S/^^ V'>-^
are here. They werfr ^*"T'^'' '''^n 'hey

•hat we could n^t7eTalfth?:Ur th" ^'^•
had furrounded ourfelves wkh S ' "^'^ ^*

bouTrh";' '?„d^;fr" ^r^^-- ^«v a.

part of the journey Tca2^"'"' "'^" °" -X
down but a who^aVJ "f ttn °"' °'^"' <"«
clothes. They caufed „c l "*P* "P°" 1"^

- 'he gnats. Juggle" aft "£ ThT '!""
time we flayed here Th.?^- ' ^"^ ""= '*^"

•^ car.

: ^

, r

III- liUi

yi

iii

<]'

s.- /,

M

1

1

. ' '■ i' ' ,

1

! j

) y

N<

<i|

\l

'34

yi0^ ly^g.

I ■

i

ii

J i'

i' lii I'p

ear, from whence it is difficult to e^ctitttS: th'cni.
There are examples of people twhofe ears were
fwelled to the lize of the fift, on account of one
of thefe infedls creeping in^q them, acnd biting
them.

The Whipperiwill^ or IVhif -poor -Will ^ cried
all night on every fide- The Fire-fiies^^vf in
numbers through the woods at night.

Fort Anne derives its name from Queer)
Anne-, for in her time it feirved 3§ a fortification
again ft the French, It lies on the weftern fide
of the river Woodcreekt which is here as incon-
siderable as a brook, of a fathom's breadth, and
:piay be waded through in any part, during this
feafon. The fort is built in the fame manner as
the forts Sarataga and N^cholfotj, that is to fay,
pf palifades, withip which the foldiers were
quartered, and at the corners of which were
the lodgings of the officers. The whole con-
lifted of wood, becaufe it was ercded only with
fl view to refift irregular troops. It is built oq
& little rifing ground which runs obliquely to the
river Woodcreekt .The country round about it is
partly flat, partly hilly, and, partly marihy, but
it confifts merely of earth, and no ftones are to
be met ivith, though ever fo carefully fought
for. Cfeneral Nicholjon built this fort in the
year 17095 but at the conclufion of the wari
then carrying on againft the French, it ffiared
ihe fame fate wir\ Saratoga and Fort Nicholjon^
being burnt by the Englijh'm 171 1 . This hap-
pened with the following circumftance: In 171 1
the E/?^/j^.refo]ved to attack Canada by land
and by fea^ at the fame time. A powerful
fleet laiied up the rivei

St, Laivre:

befiege

enrage

but it

the gr

Rogue r

and ret

palifadc

V/hy i\

in eredi

burnt i

They r*

from th(

ing of

fome pc

^reat pa

wretchec

*old me,

^any had

places fo

with a vi

^ort yinhh

^35

headed a fumlroufarr; 1''*? 'X''''°"^
to attack il^.;,w. ^^ V^'l P'^^^ ''3' '«nd.
hence; but a great 1» r. 'l'"« «'me from

A/pwrecked r.hV er t t^'^ «=« -«
obliged to return to Ne^ itlanTZ'^' '""^
of this misfortune w.s LmS ! . ^ ''^ "'^^«
cated to General AW /rJ^^'^'y '^omniuni-
retreat. Gaptarn t2"^"\ ''''° ^^' ^^^'^^d to

that he had been ^lon2 ^""""'' '"''^ «"«
General. i\^i-/.#« was ^^'^ '7'^.. ^"'i that
go down the river SS • k'"" ''' ''"'^ '°
<hat purpofe, when h^t^f' h",^"' ^'^^''^ ^"^
'he difaL which befe Th lei' ''TT f
enraged, that ha endeavoured f 1 ; u '^'' ^^
hut it being too ftrongfor him hTst ^''''
•he ground, and tram>d o„ 'ir cfv"! " '°
Roguery, treachery. He then r^^ fi ^ f ^ °'"
and returned. We fal ,K. ^'^ V° '''^ ^°ff'

palifades in the g^^und IdTX'/'^' "^"^"^

Why the £«^/ylhad been "? I tit 2 «"''^^'
in eredting the fort nn^ u ^[ " ^^P^^^e
burnt it wi hout i^v ""^ '^'"^ afterwards
They reolied ,h\^ P*^^'""" "nfideration ?

ing of the for? Tt '"°'^' ^°' the rebuil4-

^-e pel^e-idf t'h y3 T '■"^- ''"'''
^reat part of ir m fK rf appropriate a

'-tch'ed; 1 "it bif fo:; ^'^Vh:'' n ^

to'd me, that fom^ ,T.u • ■' n ^""^^ further
placesforC?.!!! !^*"- P°°' ^.^'«ions to the

^ ■* and

/

1/

;i

.. i ' \

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I ih

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J 36

June 1749'

i I >' t

n:\Xi

>: I

and that: they hed acquired fuich fortunes as rcn-*
derjed thcp^u pqual tp ibfS: cicbcft |iivimbitants of

The heat wag c;xqcfliye to-day, vcfpccially in
the afwruoon, when it was quite^ calm; We
wercj^m the,vei;y jfpot wh^re ^mt Anne formerly
ftood ; ^ itr ,wa& a lutle p)acf : free from trees, but
furroondjed with thcmoo every fide^ where the
fun had full liberty ta heat the air. Afternoon
it grew as warm as. in a hot bath *, and I never
felt a greater heati. I found a difficulty of brcathr
ing, and it feemed tooac as if my lungs could
not draw in a fufiicient quantity of air. \ was
pnorc eafed when I we»t down into the vallies,
and efpecially along the Wood-creek, I tried to
fan the air to me with my hat, but it only enr
creafed the difficulty of breathingi and I received

* In Snvedfn apd in Rvjfifi it i$ ufual for people of aU ranks
Xo bathe every week at lealt dne time ; this is done in a ftoi-e heated
by an oven, to a furjprifing degree, artd which is enough to ftifte
people who ar,e pot iifed to it ;t;.fQr commonly the be^t i) encreafed
by the hot Iteam, catifed by throwing red hot ftones into water.
In thefe baths, in i?*^^, the lower fort of people, men and wo-
men, bathfB promi^MouCy, as the i2amd»; did, and from whom,
as i'/urar^^ obferves, in hig Life of (^a/^, the, G''««'*^ adppted this
indelicate and indecent tuftom, and which fpread fo much, that
X\^t^mT^txw- Adrian, zx^l^areui JSntanirius W6re obliged to make
jaws againft u, ,b|it .peither were tb^y Jong obfprvcd, for we find
foon the Council of Ldodicea obliged to prefcribe a canon againjl
this brutal cufloffi, and botwithflanding this we find foon after that
not only perfons of all rooks* hi^t even clergymen and monks
bathed promifcuouOy with women, in the f^me baths ; and fropi
thence, it is probaole, this cuftbm paiTed among the 'Ruffians,
wheo-xhrifiianity took place among them. Near the bath, ia
RuJJiat is commonly a pond, wh^re the people plunge in, when
quite hot, and in winter they welter in the fnow ; and Saturdays it
is common to fee before the bath naked men and women, each
having a bundle of rods in their hands, with which fhey gently beat
pu^ another, when in the bath. F,

the

the

water in ,he Zmv coTn? •'>"''"''«« W
much weakened. bJ-,hT^'!'°"' """" a" ^n^

towards evening .be^^irbJaitt""' ^^^'«

Sfter a great deal o/Sbi?^''*^ **"■■• boat.
io-ney this ^orni^ng^ "ot*^ .'^.^r"""'^ ^- '
were muchdiniinifted oW;<fJ? ''^""''' «''^'^h
great hafte; for by beinV n W ** *° -n^ke
■hing on our backs rh£ J'^f^ ^^ "^^7 e.enr

^««., we could no! SkT? '^" '"°°'^^ '^ ^o"
provifions with us h,.- * f^« quantity of '.

-ceffary thingf^Tth us !^/^^^'-'' other^ve^f --

-y heartily.^ rlTeVa^teT: S,^'"^^'''=«
'h^/'ver. and feveral treeTw.? ^ "'*' """=■•'■"
''h'ch frequently ftonned II '"=" ^"0^ it. "

men in the boaf olz'^ '"* ''°«. 1 left the
i.ic uoat, and went alon™ .t /i ■*

r^a^A^m. The cround ^„ # V^^ '''"''^ '«'*'>

J'ver was fo low. tb! it mr.fl k ""^ ^"^'' "^ «hc

wh feveral fort, of tr e« „ u L . "'^■"^ '^<»'««d
"tediftances from each orh'- ^^'^ « '«<'d«-
«f graa grew betreen them TK "'^ ' «^«' *»«»»
|a Ane ihade, very Dec" ffar^;^ J '*': '''." ^'^.rded -

hably JeFened by t£!:rK'i«T """^ ~«fi-
h met with, life Vnf, "'^'^' °^ g"«" which ■

^h'ch the beavers b.dl}"""' "'''dykes,
""".difficulties. ThefeT'K'"' "' Produced ;

Hedtogetherallfortsofhr"^"' '"'"'"''' had.
N placed them '^--" °: '"'"S''* ^"d branches.

"""" "^"^ "^^O putting fflud

and

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^^■^^ i

■ ■ Sir

i. I ^. 111. ill

.^^i

I3S

>«^ 1749.

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■:^ Ui\, '<r

ai>4 clay ia betwixt them, to ftap the water.
They had hit off the ends of the branches as
neatly as If they had been chopped off with a
hatchet. The grafs about thefe places was
trod down by ther», and in the neighbourhood
of ;the dykes we fometimes iKct with paths in the
graf&, where the beavers probably carried trees
along. We found a row of dykes before us,
which flopped us a confiderable while, as we
could not get forwards with the boat, till we
had cut through ihem.

As Toon as the river was naore open, we got
into the boat again, and continued our journey
in it. The. breadth of the river, however, did
not exceed eight or nine yards, and frequently
it was not above three or four yards broad, and
generally fo (hallow, that our boat got on with
difficulty. Sometimes it acquired fuch a fudden
depth, that we could not reach the ground with
fticks of (even feet long. The ilream was very
rapid in fome places, and very flow in others.
The banks were low at firft, but afterwards re^
markable high and fleep, and now and then?
-rock projeifted into the water, which always
caufed a great depth in fuch places. The rocks I
confifted here of a grey quartz,. mixed with grey
lime-ftone, lying in ftrata. The water in the
river was very clear and tranfparcnt, and we faw
feveral little paths leading to it from the woo(k,
.faid to be. made by beavers, and other animals,!
which refprted here to drink. After going 3
flittle more than three Englip miles, we came tol
.a place, where a fire was yet burning, andthenj
we little thought that, we had narrowly efcapKiJ

_^€^

5 water,
iches as
" with a
ces was
ourhood
bs in the
ed trees
fore us,
;> as we
, till we

we got

journey

iver, did

equently

)ad, and

on with

a fudden

und with

was very

n others.

yards re^

id then 9

1 always j

^he rocks I

with grey

er in the

id we faw

le woo(k,

r animals,

' going al

e came tol

and then!

ly efcapa'l

deailij

Between Port, Anne and St P., J •

death laft niefct „ , ^'

No^ and then w; m.tZutV^ *'" ^^"i'^Z-

acroft the river. a„dVome/T''' 'J''' '^'"l

which were troublefoL.lV^'"' ^'^ ^'''^"'
Towards mVhr «r** ^ .. '^>

j-t and r« A" .dt/s ^kV '''^''/'^ ^-'
ihe commander of Fort & B Ji''-T'* ^*"' ^7
pany three Engli/hmn .^'^ '^'^^^o »«om.

fcnd them in cfffo Wefli^r^'^V'''^ '° "ei
MW, who were gone to ^'.''8''"<*<5xir^,^,4

the laft war. The p ac™!' ^ ' °^ "''"» •'«
^ that lime, but as it had^nV'*^^"^^ wnclnded at

'tis ftep, thereforethey fiS„ '^'^ "''"''' '»'^«
irary to the order of the cT ^ ^°' "^^y- ^on.
and went towards the £wl^T' ofMontreaf,
here had occafion to admSuP'""^"°"'- We
enceforus, in efcap ngTeft bV^^ °^ P'°"'-
ound the graft trod down a ['he H "'1"'- ^^
had no thoughts of danl ' 'tltl '°"^' •">«
thmg was quiet and DeacI'M '^*„^''''«''«d every
wards informed, tbat'^thefe L- ^l '"'"' "^'"^
[grafs down, and paffed th^f^ ^"^ ''°'^ '^e
fclace where we fotfndi h ^^ !"«''' '^ 'he
Kning. The ufS oad wh "! \""''' '" '^e
(afce. was by Fort JiC u'^'"'"'' ""^^ '^^e to
t^ey they had gonfrunf" *° '^°"'^» "><">

huld have met us without /k ^''"'' '^'7

Pon us all as E„./,Zl„ c "u'V *«* '°°king

Kgone out, r£f ^l'!V7''°fc Wood thef

N of the trouble of JL "!" '!?"'?^ '''"e been
I - i,-"6 «i,y further to fatisfy

their

:,

liiwml

t !

! '(

U'

' ,1

^'

HO

June 1749.

IM'"^

their cruelty. We were greatly ftruck when the
Frenchmen told us, how near death we had been
to-day. We pafTed the night here, and though
the French repeatedly adviied and defined me not
to venture any further with my company, but
to follow them to the firft Englijh fettlcmenr,
and then back to Fort St. Frederic, yet I refolv,
pdft with thjC protedlion of the Almighty, to
continue my journey the next day.
ciWe faw immenfe numbers of thofe wild
pigeons flying in the woods, which fometimes
come in incredible flocks to the fouthern Englijf)
colonies, mofl: of the inhabitants not knowing
where they come from. They have their nefts
in the trees here; and almofl: all the night make
a great noife and cooing in the trees, where ihcy
roofl:. The Frenchmen (hot a great number of |
them, and gave us fome, in which we found 1
great quantity of the feeds of the elm, which
evidently demonftrated the care of Providence in
fupplying them with food j for in May the feeds
of the red maple, which abounds here, are
ripe, and drop from the trees, and are eaten by
the pigeons during that time : afterwards, tiie
feeds of the elm ripen, which then become their
food, till other feeds ripen for them. Thcirj
flefh is the moft palatable of any bird's fleihl[
ever tafted. .^ o ..j..

Almost every night, we heard fome treesl
crack and fall, whilil we lay here in the woodJ
though the air was fo calm that not a leaf ftiw
red. The reafon of this breaking I am totalM
unacquainted with. Perhaps the dew loofenj
the roots of trees at night j or, perhaps therd

kvhcn the
had been
i though
d me not
>any, but
ttlcmenr,
1 1 rcfolv,
ghty, to

lofe wild
bmetimes
■n Englijh
knowing
heir nefts
ght make
here ihcy
umber of
we found
n, which I
^idence in
Mhe feeds
here, arc
5 eaten by
/ards, the
;ome their
1. Their
d's MI

^^^^^^n Forts ^nne andSL Frederic ,4,

gcons'fetti; irf^';uSe;'^rr ""''' P'^
w^eigh it down . or n! k. . ^"^ ^^^e as to

of gravity, mzk\ng the wciih^ l"" "'""'"
for the roots to fupport ^ •. ""^^ «'"'"
pojot when it ca„T :•„:; ^'^ «- - to the
which may as well han„- • "**=?* "Plight,

wind bllws hard. 7is reckon ^T** ^J''^" ""»
, to flcep or walk i^ the Joorf?! "''^ '''"S'^°"»
many trees which fal? ilTu' °" "^'^ount of the
« is very ca J, the " LfL "'!. """^ *^*" ^-^^
"""- ve'ry grelt an^c^^t^s 'T'i" lif "«
fcwal parts America th« fk /i ^'^ '°'<*' '"
canes foLtimes o'Z'XZ f fZl^ '"";
.he wood., and tear dL„ the treeit P*"//

Merc almoft all the S^ ^ " ^^® ^^''^^s,

^"diayalli„o;itS7""'''r^^-''.

kpurfes much bettJr ;7 ° " **•="• «nd

t»'tea and coffee hI"^* *!''' both with-

tidj iournevs as min. .u l '" 'ummer. on

and

.1^ ii

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1 1

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■-i\',

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■¥r

i4i

yutie i/49.

"! f

and r cannot fufficiently dcfcribd ttic ^nt tarte
it has in fuch ctrcum(lanccs« It relieves a wearj
traveller more than can be ihaginedj as I hate
iByfeif experienced, together with a great man?
others who have travelled through the defart
forefts of jimericai on fuch journeysi tea i]
found to be almoft as pcccflary as victuals *.

June ?oth. This morning we left our boat
to thtFrenchment who made ufe of it to carry
their pfovifiions ; for we could not make any
further ufc- of it, on account of the number of
trees which the French had thrown acrofs the
river during the laft war, to prevent the attacki
ef the EngiiJJj upon Canada. The Frenchman
gave us leave to make ufe of one of their boats,
^hich they had left behind them, about fix
miles frotii the place where we pafled the laft
night. Thus we continued our journey on foot,
along the river; and found the country flaiji
with fonie little vales here and tijere. It wat
every where covered with tall trces^ of the de-
ciduous kind ', among which the beech, tfitj
eim^ the American lime-tree, and the fugar*
maple, where the moll numerous. The trecjl
fl^nd at fome diftance from each other; andthe|
foil in which they grow is extremely rich*

After wc had walked about a Swedifi m\\tii
er fix Englijh tni :s, we came to the place where
the fix Frenchnten had left their bark boats, of

• .On my travels through the defart plains, beyond the nrffj
f^ol^a, I have had feveral opportunities of making the rameobfcrJ
talidhs on Tea ; and < very traveller, in the fame circumftances,!
will readily allow them to be very juH. F.

whiclil

B.'tween Forts Anne and St. Frederic. ,43

which we .00k one, and rowed down the rirer
which was now between „.„ . « »« ri»er<

prds broad. The 7ro!md l'" u""* ''^«'>'r

very /u,ooth. and .'„f Try Lh^^'s?" •"''
we found a hill confift;„^^f * Sometimes

.d wi.h f J fine Sa of .? "^r ^' "'*-
liJccwife obferved black ftrips^n^/''K- ^°
were fo fmall. q^ar I could nTd t "„^ n^ itS'^
they were of Eliminer o, "=''-"»»ne whether

ftrata. I^ing one above S» ^ ^trt^C"""^
of five inches tk. ^ ^^^^^ °^ 'be thicknefs

pin? to the nor h a1 we w^^'k' ''"''''>-
raw high and fteep hU Is o^ the ife" fide"' "'
ly covered with trees; but n r h/ * ^^T
banks confift of a Avamnv t .,f P5«\'h«

gave way when it wV. f^i / S"'"""''' '*''''■■'»
Le fiilarity o " ^^ S V"' ^""^'^
which my conntrvineV.rin .'""' '"'*''^«'
In thofe pacts Sl\C „T^ T""' '° «J™«».

covered whh tall .^^ ''?' "°' ''''"y' '^ere
I 'e. ..eeches and whit; wdnlt;::s' "' ^*^

>S,:^d^bo:er,et";tr '''i '°^''«"''- -^

|had built it. "^'""^ "'■ "^'^ £'"-^/^.'?«^

We had rowed very faft all tU. „c.
m order to o^f fx. -j f "° arternoon,
I to get forward; and we thought tha!

we

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wc were upon the true road, but found ourfcltei
greatly miftakcn : for towards night we obfcrv-
ed, thai the reeds in the river bent towards us^
which was a mark that the river likcwifc flow^
cd towards us j whereas, if we had been on the
triK; fiver, it (hould have gone With us. We
likcwifc obfervcd. from the trees which lay acrofs
ihc river, that nobody had lately paffcd that way,
though we (hould have feen the ftcps of the
Frenchmen In the grafs along the fhorc, when
they brought their boat over thcfe trees. At
laft, wc plainly faw that the river flowed againft
us, by fevcral pieces of wood which floated
(lowly towaids us ; and we were convinced,
that wc had gone twelve Englijh miles, and
upwards, Upon a wrong river, whicb obliged us
to return, and to row till very late at night.
We fometimcs thought, through fear, that the
Indians, who were gone to murder fome Eni-
lijh, would unavoidably meet with us. Though
wc rowed very fall, yet we were not able to-
day to get half-way back to the place where wc
firft left the true river.

The mofl odoriferous effluvia fometimcs
came from the banks of the river, towards
night, but we could not determine what flowers
diffufed them. However, we fuppofed they
chiefly arofe from the Afclepias Syriaca, and the
j^pocynum androfcemifolium.

The Mujk Rats could likewife be fmelled at
night. They had many holes in the (hores,
even with the furfacc of the water.

We pafTed the night in an ifland, where wc
A could I

^''-'""P'^^s^ne^ndSr. Frederic. ,,,
ffi not fleep on account of th. .
Ad not venture tanukc . fi« 1 T'"'. ^«
^««/ AouW find ua out anH tfi'i ' ^" ">* ■^«-
feveralof their do« LLw •' " u ^"''"^''
uncafinc/i . -.o,^^ j!;;^^,^^ .ddcd to our

■ - :- r .'! ** • "^ "f r*'"» «* .'»»n ,.-f:

» >^«* J^fJI ^^;^J yf^iif,. p ,

•s.' »

■'' i'^.";^ Ud

'4

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.^rjOT-^ . ,j^.,f,yy .i^hiuwn.,;

•! -:..•„., . '-^S '"•>•',• <•.«/, ,,„,^V,;,

• '*• •••'■'' .j,Y t >; ,.i » * \ *

-'Oft «rfw „,.vL 4 " :m '''•* '•"''•■■ ■■

^ — V-'-'W. ""^l r.,.nt 'Aim i;»^„f ,
> METEO-

t ■!.■ •

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M E T E O R O L O G I G A L

OBSERVATIONS.

11 Mi

ADVERTISEMENT.

'! 11-'

'! 1

» ^1

f .,.

IN the firft column of thefe Tables, the rea*
der will find the days of the month ; in
the fecondj the time or hour of the day when
the obfervations were made j in the third, the
rifing and falling of the thermometer ; in the
fourth, the wind -, and in the fifth, the weather
in general, fuch as rainy, fair, cloudy, &c.

The thermometer which I have made ufe of
is that of Mr. Celjius, or the Swedtjh thermome-
ter fo called, as I have already pointed out in
the Preface. To diftinguifli the degrees above
freezing-point from thofe below it, I have ex-
prefTed the freezing-poijnt itfelf by 00| and pre-
fixed o to every degree below it. The num-
bers therefore which have no o before them,
fignify the upper degrees. Some examples will

make

9

iLi'ii^'ir

Mt

^^^ca. Ubfervatlons.

of December it is rZlTl^'^^^' "" the ,,th
!-. « eight o'ZSt^^' "^^ '''--oS'
It was therefore at , Jl "'"^'ng. was at 02 r
fJ^gree. below the ffeeSr '•'"' ^' °^ ^aK

'"the afternoon, it wara?oT'"'' ''"' =>' '>vo
on the freezing-poipT ir °°^°' °'- exadJy up.

S^have 4a'tha Uh'ethtr'r °°^^' ''
laiicn i of a deo^ree h^l„ I '"^"^mometer was
h"t 0.3 would n^nk luZ •''' ^--^^-'ng-point
degree above thf fS^;i " .^^' "''in | of a
^".'^03.0. is three deSh^r^- J^^^Hkc-
Pomt, and 4.0. four£s abT '^' ^''^^'"S"
The numbers in ,h^ , ^°°^e it, ^

ffyas follows: "sSr""'"'^ "'"'^^ '^S"
.2. a frefli gale • j ! a '•" "' » gentle breezf.

7 «orm fr hurrta'ne "If '^ ^ """^ 4. aX*
laft tables, the winds ;re ^l,""' '" f"'"'' «f 'he
d^y. » figniiies that they have!, """l^"^ °"" "»
%•. Thus.ontheaTftVf])?"';'''"^^'' that
I ^^"•- This fte ws that fu^'^^'-'-' ft^nds N.
have turned to the north .11^ ^ea,her-cocks
^'"d has been felt, and the . {' ''"' '''« "o
a" the day long. ^ "'^ % has been clear

Before J wen(- t« /-^
Idefired Mr. Si fi/f'"^''' '" '""'"mer 1740
•--logical oblTrTattrr;'' "^f ^^ '"°'"'= --
"y ^bfence, in order to '"-> '^^^'"^''^' during
heat of that province Fo/?h'r "'^ '""n,mer!

h'm a thermometer, ^nd J Py°^'' ^ ^'<''
proper ufe of if .nrf ? '"'^''uaed him in the

down his obferv'ations a'tT 'f ''"'^ =' •" - e
%/f^ tniles to ,rL .u ^'.' ''"'' about four

:(

' I

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;?f

y":t'JI

(I

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I 'I

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1 '1:

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148 Meteorological Obfervations.

is very excufable for not putting down the hour,
the degree of wind, &c. for being employed m
bufinels of greater confequcnce, that of culti-
vating his grounds, he could not allow much
time for this. What he has done is, however,
fufficient to give an idea of the Fenfylvantan
fummer.

Augufi

r

JD./ H. jTher.

'^ugujl

I '74.8.

As m
I2 a'

2I5 m^

U ai

Z\S ni|

(2 al

4 5 m
p a,

12 a

20.0

24-5

22.0

24-5
22.0

The Weather in general.

M9 l-n^^fWH

^SEz/Fair."
£ 2

E2
E2

2tor^l7'fc<^yrhromeraFn.

x'-i.^^ 'r;r^^ ^^•^' ^^-^y and rainy all

^ . H I- ciofdr'"^-

7|5 ml 1^5 s S W2 A/S'f t"^^' ^"^ ^^^iefly fair.
S5 m 18.0 S S WolFa rTn H ^ ^"' '"^ ^^^"^7.

96 m 17.5 WN Wo
14 a| 22.0 WNWiI

-; ti

IT ~ I — * %\J

106 ml J8.5
3 a[ 20.5

III 6 ir.
T a

|4
6

lap
6

F 1
F I

T?.

air.

m
a

m
a

'^1
2

1.4 5 m
4 a
15 5 m

a( ?i.

mj

i»' 21.

J £^ I f

^8:5liwVFaT'^'^'^^^^^^^^

32.0 S W I '
22.0 W o

17.0 WNW2 n,„,J., '^T' '"''"■• Jt'^zinsj rain altem

j8.o/WSW/^ c '■"'"«:'> i4ir.

ao.o| W- s VVo SS?^' ''""'y' '"' ^™" "■>•■ to 3 a.

'9.5 N £ a "" eVi'Z'r" '^''^ ^^ ■- °'c'ock
^8.3 N N F 2 Wv^hat cloudyl fo.e ti.e fair.
'«^'£NF2 Dark '^'">:^^ "^'g'^'-

i-TizzJing ram sjj the day.

jCloudy.

Scattered clouds.
^ air.

Iff

i

:attered clouds- fompfrj^^^ •

Hi

22

•'')

11

:^^ i M

^i^gHft.iy^^*

Wind.

ESEi

SE2

WSW2

W2

WNWi
N W I

W I

WN W.;

W 2

S W2

W S W I
SE2

E3

NE4

N I

S W I
S W3
N W2

S Wi

The Weather in .general.

Fair ; about twelve it became cloudy,*
Cloudy. ^ ^ I

Scattered clouds. ..

Scattered clouds, dark towards eve«
Violent rain. '

About fcven it cleared up.

Scattered clcudj.
Scattered clouds.

Fair. At night a great halo appeared

round the fun.
Dark. A ftrong rednefs at fun-fetting.
Cloudy. At ten it began to rain, and

it rained all day.

Rain.

Scattered clouds,

(lightning.
Towards evening driz2ling rain and
Scattered clouds ; air very cool.

Fair, in the morning it began to grow
cloudy ; at night lightning, hard
rain, and fome thunder.

Septmhir

September 174^.

7 m 20.0 N W 2 Scattered do;;^;: ^

2 6m iq 0 N W r c ..^"i'^^^" ^'^^ afternoon. *

2 a 00 c N W ^^^^^'■^^ *^^0"ds all day.

^ ^' 23.0J S , jit became more cloudy. In the even-

ing appeared a grisat hale round

2 a| 24.01

SEj jScattered clouds.

5 6 m .24.5
|J2 n 26.5
6j 6 ml 27.0
I a| 28.5

S E 2 /Scattered clouds,

7 5 JL 3 Dark fometimes. The fun flione*

8 6m 26.^NNE2R^^^^
' ^ ^6.5

9 6 m 24.5 N I

I a 24.5

Scattered clouds all day.
Scattered clouds all day.

24.0 LV N W 1 Fair.
-4-5

23-2 WNW I Fair.
12I 6 ml 24.0 A Calm b."'S'^* 3 ^alo round (he moon.

si; I Fair,

fair; but a cool wind an the morning,

jScattered clouds.

r ^'T^. "^°/^ ^J«"^y. In the evening
. , , '"f„^"^"'"^'"'ght, violent rain and

12'1^^5^''''^'P"-<^h-^«^day.
17 5m 25 J N^^ Cloudy.

'ocattcrcd cloudi.

it

■A

i \

*<;»

1 •!■

i

:!J. •!

! :ii i^'

' #1

%m

I

f y \- \

>f

.rtf

." i(

1/ ,'

.1:

■^ -*' I

? J

15^

September 1748.

18

19
20

2i

22

as

24

^5

26

27
28
29

H.

6
I
6
6
I

7
I

6

2

6

2

6
2
6
2
6
2
6
2

7
2

m

m
m

a
en

a
tn

a

m

a

Thcr.

13.0

24.5
14.0
II. 0
23.0
10.5
25.0
no
28.0
14.0
28.0

o 7

m

18.C

a

28.0

Ti)

15-5

a

27-5

IT

17.0

a

27.0

m

140

a

20.C

m

15-5

3

20.5

IT.

16.C

Wind.

Calm.

NTNE I
NE I
NEo

NE I

NTNE I

NE I

N W I
NE I

.V N E I

N E I
N E I
N E I
NEo

The Weather in general.

Fair.

Fair all day.
Scattered clouds.
Scattered clouds.

Fair, •

Fair. i

Fair.

It grew dark. At night came rain,

which continued late.
Dark. At 8, fcattered clouds.
Scattered clouds.
Fair.

Cloudy. Fair at 8, and all the morning.

Cloudy.

Fair and cloudy alternately.

Cloudy.

Fine drizzling rain,
, Alternately fair and cloudy.

Cilibsr

m H. ]

16

Oi

2

a

26

ni

36 Hi

I a

47 ^

I

a

57 "^

67 m

I

a 1

76 m

86 m I

96 m| I

3 a

2

106 m

2

2 I.

2

II

7 ^

2(

2 a 2(

126 IT i

8

2 a

2C

136 ni

2

2 J,

17

Hi

> m

5

I

a 2f

156

m

4-

2 a

24.

166 m

11.

176 m

8.

2 -^ 18.

186 w

12. (

I '

4-c

195

ni 00. c

2

* 9.C

205

ni 01. c

2

•T 9-0

217 ni' co.O

I

^1 ^

5.0

m

m oo.ol

W U. iTher.

O^ober i^4g.

tVind.

_The Weather in general.

'53

6'

86
96

7

12

Si Fair. Sca-tered clouds at 8.

N W I Cloudy*

Scattered clouds. Late at ni^ht a
N W , Fair. ^'"' "" '^""^ ^^^ «^°°"- "

Ni Fair.
NEi Fair. •

E N E z Cioulif Va[r' t o ^° ^°"^f i''^ "'°°"-
E N E 1 CJonHv Q ^ 9» and all day.
S S F r » • ^; ,^^^a«ered clouds at 8.
Cloud '"''^"'"g-

SVvjF^-whlch fell down. Fair at 8.

WN W

ws w

oi> VV 0 Pair.
S S E 0 Fair.

Fair all day.

ENEo
NE I

2C

^\ 00,0

Cloudy,
v-'loudy.

S W 0 ^

WSW.Scatttrcdc.'ouds.

vv c 'i:- ■ """"''ay.

(f

<

\i

• fi

I,

t f.

.L.

•( ri

J

'■■V

%\

f

^3

■ V

|pi|#ll|>

f ii

i',54

OSioher 1748.

p

H.

Ther.

WinJ.

23

6 m

4-5

NN£i

I a

16.0

24

6 m

4-5

No

2 a

18.0

25

6 m

4'5

S Wi

26

6 m

4.0

SWo

3 a

19.0

27

b IT)

i.o

S Wo

3 a

17.0

28

6 m

9.0

E2

29

6 m

14.0

W I

I a

20.0

30

6 tn

3-0

NWi J

31

7 m

4.0

Wi

I a

l8.;0

The Weather rn general.

■M

Fair.

Fair.

Fair. Air very much cohdenfed in the

afternoon.:
Fair.

Fair. '

Heavy rain all day.

Fair.

At night I faw a meteor, commonly
called the {hooting of a ftar^ going
far from N. W. to S. £♦

Fair.

Fair,

\)\ H. II

il 7 ml
2I 6 ml

3 a

31 7 »"
I a

41 7 W

12 n

I a|

6| 7 ml
I a

71 lA

„, 4 A
«l 7 m
1 a
7 m
9 ml
I a
[101 7 m

9

6{
I"

I'

12

7
II

II

18

17.

'5-

6^

^3<

4.(

12 c
03.C
11.5

5-0
00.0

5.5

0.0

3.0

8.0I

4.5
01. 0

8.0

4.o|

7 m 03.0

7"! 0I.o|^

2 a

I ai
[nj 7 m

i ai
12) 6 ml

2 a

4
7m

2 a

'417"'
I a

5|7m
I a

IJ

7 m
I a
7m
3 al

Remember 17^5^

Dl H. jTher.l Wind. I Th. w \ ^"^^

H h- J^^eather m general.

117 m 3.01 -^ '

26

m

4.0

18.

S Eo 1 *

7 '"I 4-olSW, i^^^3^-

I a 17.0 • I

^)7W 4-5| NEx Fair. ;'

N E , cS;:^^ '""^'"S fcnewhat cloudy,

I a I4.0
Ta\\ I. of

Il2 HI 1^ ol

I af 12. o|

7

7

IJ.

m

=1 '8.01 t^^|^fef"% rain.

SW, Ate, ghti, cleared up.

a| 130 WNW2 '
40|WSWi Cloudy.

'•5| N W 2 Cloudy.

a 12.0

'ID

a| 1

5-0
7"^! 00.0 N

5.5I
'''I o.

8.

3.0]
8.

4.5 1
8.

'''''b^afr'^"'"^^*^^*^- the water.

N

m

3
2

2

W

N
03.0I VV

a| II.
Ol.

W2

O I Fair.
' E I Fair.

Fair.

|p. ^'■°"8 '•^J aurora.

!^j;>^^^y and continual drizzhng,,.^^

Pair and cloudy alternately
,^Somet,a.es drizzling rainT

(!

%x

156
Di a

mvi

21
22

?3

24

26

27

28
29

30

m

a
m

a
m

a
m
m

November 174S.
Ther.f Wind. I The Weather in grneral.

15.C
19.C

20.C
10.0
16.C

oo.c

SW2

El

S I
SW4

WNW3
N \V o

N Wo

Ni

Fair.

Rain all day.

Cloudy, foggy, and rain now aoi

then.
Fair. [to-djy

It was very cold laft night, and fa,
Alternately fair and fomewhat cloudy,

and always pretty cold.
Fair ; fcattered clouds : pretty warn

in the air.
Cloudy, foggy, and quite calm.
Somewhat cloudy.
Fair, and a little cold.

I '\,a

Dectn.m

IS,

December 1748.
rncral. H^jJLII^'; „^'"^ TheWcather in general.

^57

N r

6

Fair, and coJd ; a great halo rbund the
tA/cT,r L "»oon at night. "'^na the

WbW,A pretty red aurora, however a fair
4|7 m 6.0 S S W 0 Fair.

3 a 18.0

7 m S-sl^ N E ,

4 a 9,5

7 H 6.5 SSW 1 Cloudy.

Cloudy.
Fair.

iCJoUuy.

10.0WNW2 ^""^^.edcJoudn

o i» W I Fair.

7 m

o:i''^'Kte"'^''«^"''^^^'--«

0 Txr It. o'clock.
iyW 0 Foggy, and cloudy.

'^:^f ^^.^"^ ^' l^- wind. .

. Jc XT , P^^-'xt n fiht a ftr(

TH q N W 2 Scattered%Ioud;.

^8 4 °7:oWNwJFair and cloudy alternately.

W I

Fair.

F9

01. 0

02.5 N W xfCIoudy. ro„,e fnow, the ii,ft ,his win-

03.0 Wi Fair.
4.0

f 1 ^7^^^^^ ^^-^- ^•'-t nx at night

/ 5 vv :, VV I were quite red ftripes on the Iv

lioJ No Fair."'^^^-*^-
12 a| 2.0J i

2i2

i

lijiij

I ■■'

)i-t

m

'i.'i

n :

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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t>ecember 1748«

m w\ u

&

i- m

I

D.

22

24
25

H.

2 a
i68 m

17
28

29
31

8 n)

2 a

8 m

2 a

8 ID

2 a

8 in

2 a

8 m

8 m

2 a

8 m

2 a

8 m

2 a

8 ID

2 a

Ther.

04-5
13.0

13.0

18.0

13.0

17.0

18.0

18.5

3-0

3-5

04.0

07.0
8.0

3-0
13.0

8.0

lO.O

6.0

4.0

Wind.

SE o

SSWo

WSWo
SW I

S3

SSE 2
W3

WNW3
WNW3
W o

NNE 1

The Weather In genferat.

NNE 1
— c
W 3

|NW I

Fair.

Tt grew cloudy in the afternoon*

Heavy rain.

Foggy and cloiidir.

Thick fog.

Fair 5 but late in the evening a hard

Ihower ofrain*
Laft night was a ftoi-m, ram, tiiunder,

and lightning.
Het^vy rain all day.
Laft night a violent ftbrih /lomtV.

and S. and heavy rain. The mem-

ing ^as cloudy, aiid fonlie fiiow

fell.
Clears up.
Fair.
Fair. '

Somewhat cloudy, and intermittent

ihowers.
Cloudy and foggy all day.

Fair.

At night a Halo round the moon*

7fl«ttfl';|

ii I ill

January ly^g.

D.

H.

2 a

2 a

74'"

47^

Ther.

07.0

Wind.

NWo

4.0

— 0

«4-5WNW

5-5

— I

2.0

NWi

2.0

— I

The Weather

'r9

in

general.

Fa

iir.

5
6

7

S

10

Ii

13

14

_ ni

2 a
71: m

7i:'«
2 2

5 a

2 «

Tim
2 a|
7im
2 a

i IT)

2 a

4 a

7iw
2 a

i2J7i;i»

2 a

7ini
I a

7iH'
I a

'5 7
2

7
8

2

7

7

7

02.6

u.o

03.0

03.0

14-5
14.5

01.0

04.0

6.0

03.0

Wi

W o'
W o
— o

NW
W

w 3

NWi

Alternately fair and cloudy.

Cloudy. '

Fair.

Fair.

Fair, but darkned towards night, with
lome (now.

Somewhttt cloudy.

WNWiFair-
WNWi

15-0

2.0

03.0

04.0

S 2
W 4

.3.0JWN W 1 Aurora, cloudy, heavy rai«5 at night.

Cloudy, and ftowers, feme fnow at
'I'gl't 5 l^t 9 morn. W. S. W. 3 -

WNW 3taoud;.''* "^ ^- '^; ^'^^ ^ '^'' ^' ^•

-t:_j

04.0 WNW 3

16

18

m

a

m
a

m
a

m
low

01.5

07.5

03.0

IQ

7 m

05-5
02.0

07.0

3-0
08.9
09.0
08.0

OII.O

09.0

012. 0
OII.O

3(010.5

NNWa
WNW2

WNWi

WNWo

•— o

NW3

NNE 0

— o
N W 1

— I

W

I
I

Fair, . , , .

r air.

Cloudy.

Cloudy, and fnows all day j it lay above

two inches thick.
Fair.

All the laft night W N W a.
Fair all day. ^

Cloudy ; fnows all day, and the cnfu-

mg night.
Cloudy, and fnows in the morning, fair

all the afrernoon, and the iher-

moraeter at cij.o; /now lay five

inches deep.
Fair.

[

120

' n\

I

-m

I'l

i ' 'Iw

''.\

|:! I

< .!

n vi

*■ I '

.N.4

;

1

';

i:i j^*

1 '

"> i

1 * -
: 1 ^

ii:;

I r^iiry

! Ai

i6p

January 1749^

I n

I'l

m

D.

20

2T
22

23

24

25

26

27
28

30
3

H.

7
2

7
2

7
2

7

7

7
2

JT

2

7
2

7

2

7
3
7
3
7
3

a

ID

a
m

a
m

a
m

a
m

a
in

a

m

a
in
a
m

a
m

a
m

a

Ther

012.5
07.0

022.0
03.0
05.0
01.0

010.0

30

oi.o

4.0

00.0

4.0

013.0

I.O

07.0

00.0
OI.O

4.0

05.0

03.0

013.0

4.0

04.0

8.0

Wind.

W I

WNWo
W I
W I
W I

WNWi

— I
NNE o

NE o
WNWo

W o
WNWi

— I

W I

WNWi
NNE I
WNWi
WNWi

The Weather in general.

Fair. .*,, 44„.^ .

Fair,

Fair.

Cloudy.

Fair ; a great halo round the moon at

night.
Cloudy, fnows all day»

Fair. r

Fair,

Cloudy ; at three in the afternoon be.

gan to fnow.
Fair ; halo round the mooil at night.

Cloudy \ fnows almoft all day«

F'^ir.

Fair \ halo round the moon at night.

Fair ; halo round the moon at night.

\\< I

iii \\

fibruari

ii

Pehr

^] »• jThef.lVVind.

T^c Weather in general,
i^air; a halo rou^hT^oTn at nigh7.

03.o|WNWi
iiol W I _

5.ohVNWoFair.-
6.0 Wo

00.0 W o Fair.

'9-5 — o

uila.'Jrr. E .r 1^^^^^ ^^" '' «'sht wind NN E J.

o6.pNrNW2

03 0 N W 2
"'010.5 NWo

*' 30WSW]

iir.

A crabng no,fe was heard in all houfe,
the n.ght before. Aurora.-Fa r

allday,--at7inthcmorn.NWr
-atg,WNW,-ati,.Wr

^ ^\ ii I— at 9 N ,-.at 10 ^ j^^

' L '-ati?,NW ,.

rair.

NWo
W I
W I

— 1

W I

j;r.

Pretty clear ; a violent fform with rain
. all the enfuing night.

""il.Tr'T'^' «ighti atnighta
.^ght^m,lar to an Aurora BcreaJi'

aNrj about nine at night a faint Au-

WNwJciour^"^^''^^"^^-

N W 2 Fair.
N W , Fair.

9 OS S W

JJ.C

s s w

■^"WNWoFair.
NW I

2.0 W^NWi Cloudy. ^'

00.0 ' •'

Vol. n.

AI

»9

lil

If''

:\M

mn

<ij)Jif

i 1^

■'i|.iil<i'

Hi

1 ,1 I

'^rL

i ■ a

iji:

II

i^l. 1

162

D. H.

February 1749.

19

20

hi ■'■''.

26

27

28

5.-rr

61 ir
2

4 a

6-i- m

6j.ir

4 a
64.111

8

n)

,"3

rn

3 a

6 m

3 a

rher.
03.C

OI.C

1-5

4-5
008

4-c

i; ot,

• .«,■■■ '■•<■

3^q

3-5
c6.c

4.C

4.C

10. c

3-P
I

012. c

02.C

04.0

OI.O

04.5

Wind.

N.N £2
N Wi

The Weather in general.

Cloudy i rain all day» mixed with fnow

and hail. '1 '•'
Cloudy. , )

N W o Cloudy ; at 5 in the morn, wc heard a
N N £ 1 , waterfall near a mill, about a mile
S of us, making a ftronger noife
than common, the' the air was very
calm — at 10 began a rain which
continued the whole day.
WNWilFair.

'''■,-.

W 2 Fair.

Some clouds gathered round the fun.
Cloudy. '

S S W I
W I

WNWc

NNWi

N 2
NW 4

03.5 WNWa

Alternately fair and cloudy.

Fair j cloudy at night ; at eight in the
evening was a halo round the moon,
and the clouds in the S. quite red.

Cloudy, and fnow in the morning ; but
fair at 4 in the afternoon.

Flying clouds.

:Ut

Anarch

'March i-iAq, ,

»l H- (Ther.HVind. , „. J. '^

- r— — - ■ t^ ^"""er ;„ general.

'P m 09.0 WNW2 Fair A I —

P A °>-S \ ■ . S^at ha o round th. .^^

♦ 3 2.C A '^""f ln'o round th» ™

II I ^ "^ Clouds in S "M/

* a 7.0 Si ^ "^3vy ram at night.

SP ^\ 4.0 W T Al

? « ii.o W, r -^f'y ^alr and cloudy Th« „. .

7P Hi 00.0 w s w J A?;^; . , ^.

f 4 6-5 ■ S E , f'°"^f- , fr^ »nd rain all day, and

ij6 ID ^Jmvp L '^'"- S"= Cloudy, xvith

, 1^ ^ ^'0 0 Z N af ^1' 2^ ''-^ rain. Fair at 4 ia

ll 9 1 n ^ *|*- air.

1^ aj lo.ol I

J3 « 13.C W2 ^^^"^y fovvards night.

3 ^ o,i • f"^^ ^'^''^«^Jy blown about all dav

^ "^ Cloudy. Clears up at 8 in th.

U A 4.0

ji ^1 6.0 NVV2 '

^^SWcFair^H . ,.

..^..^. r wicltt!'^ ^'^^^ "- -c.d

M'

A&

''-'fj III

I ' n

•Hi ||

,1

iflj

ifir'lit'

li

I. !

I

i»,S^

•IH

1 64

March 1749.

i;! 5i;

D.

20

21

22

H.

Ther.

23
24

25
26

27
28

0 n:

3 2

61m

3
6 m

3 ^

6 IT

3 »

6 m

n
6|m

3 »
6 m

29

30

31

6 ID

3 a

61: m

3 ^

6 m

2 a

6 ID

2 a

05-5
II. 5

2.0

14.5
10 0

19.5
15.0
19.0
8.C
15.C

65
II. 0

00.0

I i.c

3'C
9c

30

12.0

I c

6.C

03.C

4.C

5.C

Wind.

W o

SW I

3 S E 0

The Weather in general.

Fair. Cloudy towards night,

Cloudy.

Cloudy. IftteriniUent (bowers.

• MS til ^1 I

S S E 0 Cloudy.

S S E 1 Heavy rain.

S W I Fair.

WNW3Fair.

Flying clouds.
WNWaFair.

S W 2 Flying clouds. About 8 at night a
fnow-fire on the horizon in S. W.
WNWiFair.

6im

3 ai I4-C

S 1

la.NNWa

NNW2

E I

SE I

N 1

Rain all the day, and the next night.
Fair.

Fair. Cloudy at noon : begins tofnow,
which continues till night, when
it turned into rain.

Cloudy.

i.'fiii

I: :

TTi

4iisin

Jpril

1113: ':iti

■^pril 1749,

Its

5.5 N N E .Li i ehc ;„,-■;;-;—

^-5 ' f ■"'>;'.;!"' -uch .hunder ,„d ligh..

3" o°T''^'r"^'^»ft'''-= "hole day.

3] 601 02. c N Wi Fair.

3 a| 9'0

A\ 6r;j 02.0

3 a 16.0
5) 6 m 00.5

W I Fair.
N I Fair.

— " v^.5 ix I Fair. _v. ' •

4.0 s w 1
23.0

S2

JO

7 m 9.0 N W 2

3 a 13.0 •*

0ml i.c N ,
7.C

?-5

Fair.

.Fair. Cloudy afternoon

rlin^ '" '^ '"'"'"S '^ began to
ra^^. and continued till fate at

^'ying clouds.

klternately fair and cloudy. Snow.
N K . bou;ry.-Br-- - - 1; and

WNW2Fair.^^Afternoon cloudy, with bail and
N W 2 Fair.
i> W- , Cloudy.

E I Cloudy ; fair at eight. Cloudy to-
wards night. •'^ ^°

^ i 'Aimoft quite "fair.

Fair.

!i'

i

1 ,!

1 I

'y\Hu

i d i

i

■ (

1 ^ '

ifi

10

i66

1 r

1';' I I

D.

H.

Thcr.

20

6

m

2.C

3

a

21

22

S

m

13.0

3

a.

23.0

23

51

m

II 0

3

a

255

24

6

IT

12.0

3

a

22. C

25

6

m

18.C

3

a

24.C

26

6

m

28.C

3

a

30.C

27

6

m

17. C

3

a

25. c

28

6

in

7.C

3

a

24.C

29

6

IT

7.C

3

a

17.0

3<^

5

n

3-c

3

a

»5-5

April 1749.

Wind. The Weather in general.

S W o A hoar froft this morning. Fair and

very hot all day.
S W I Fair j with hot vapours raiftd by the
fun,
S o Almoil fair,

W I Fair.

S I Cloudy, intermittent drizzl. fliowers.

S 0 Rain the preceding nipht, and now
and then this day. At night thun-
der and lightning.
W I Fair,

W 2 Fair.

Wo Fair.

N 2 Fair,

E 2

E I Flying clouds.

S I

Ma^

D.l H. ITh

er,

^f 4m oi.c
3 a 18.5

i.o

5»n

3 a 23.0

May 174^;
(J!!::^ J^IIllJI^caeher /„ genera,.

W.f Fair. •*''''

idy

SStHi 4.0I VV

c

8|

9i

10
II

3 a 27
4f 5 m 16.
S\ J«n 13.0I
3 a 27.0
5 m 14 ^j
5 m 13

5 m
m

4.0
14 o

3 a 14.

T) I

3'0 S

3 a i6.cl
6 m i2.c|w
3 a 28.0

i2f 6 ml 13.CIW'
3 a| 20

131 5 «' 9.0I N

3 a 18

Pair.
S 3 p'l/ing clouds.

No fc^
^' 'Rain almoft the whole day.

SWolfntermmentftowers.
SWcFair.

^W2Fa,V.

^ I Fair.

'4i

^\

4

'71 5

ii

'9 5

20| 5

3

21I6

22j

^i 5m

3 a

Mil 2 m
2j| 8 m
2 a

5 ^\ 00 5f N W 0 JFair.

'^2 Cloudy.
Rain.
iCloudy,

5 m 9.0 ss
a 20 o
mj 17.01
23.0J
m[ 20.0I S 1

24.0I
ml 1 3.0/
m 17.0/ W
mj 19.0I w

24.0I
ml 20.0

2
I

Rains intermittently alldav .„w r l

L/ensverymuch^tSt'. ^'^''

Fair.
Fair.

S W

'7.0 S W , Fair.
33-5

Fair.
I JFair. Very hot.

32 o| S W , Fair.

28.0I ^ t^"''-' ^n<J very W4rm.

M ^

26

• «

(, .

iif'jti-'

■If

111

i68

' II

D.

H.

8 m

Thcr

21 0

Wind.

26

WNWs

3 a

25 0

27

7 ^

17.0

W2

1 a

25.0

28

7 IT

I5P

W I

2 a

256

29

7 m

ib.o

W 2

2 a

25.0

30

5 "^

13.0

WNWi

— a

25.0

W I

31

5 «^

13.0

SWi

I a

27.0

May 17491

. The Wcaiher in general.

Flying clouds ; at night thick cloudi)

with ftorm and rain.
Thick, fcattered clouds.
Pretty cool.

Flying clouds.

Fair.
Cloudy.

Somewhat cloudy.
Fair.

Ill

r'

7««

i" inrH'r

A H

i--

^ •! !

Dj H. jTherl UTin^,

>^ 1749,:

23.0 S W J
SE 1

169

^e Wfcather r„ gencfa * |

20

21

Rain the precQding nieht"

22.0 ' f'"- ■"■ ' •

23.0 — I CI . -^ ,

13.0 £'y'"g ^^0"ds-

20.0 N r In • •

33.0 SW, rr"^/'°»''<''-

'1.0 No f,)r"-'^°""' ^ich rafn.

^60 S I Ipair.

'M No Xi""''""'°'"''' '^'■"' "^n.

20.0 M N E J Fair.
20.01

'8-0 No (Fair.

"•°ESE,F„v.
32. 0 N E I Tk J

20.0 'n N W I Fah" "'' '^'^'' ^''''>' '^o^er.c,

27.0 '

^^•° S I JFair.
I o jCloudy,

lo W ,° &^^' »"■"' '■<»»= ftowers.

'7-0 s, jp^i^;

, N Vv , 1^^

^ I Thunder and

lain.

H

'1

I I'

I! AU

t li m

i' I

l.i

iiiilil

170

D-

H.

Thar.

25

5 m

23.0

2 2

32.0

26

? ni

12.0

27

6 tn

11. 0

28

6 m

18.0

I a

35-0

29

7 m

6.0

30

S «n

II.O

3 ^

31.0

June 1749'

Wittd.

Si

Ni.

Si

Si
W I

The Weather in general.

Fair.

Fair.
Fair.
Fair;

Fair.
Fair.

DJH.

I
2?

n)

31

8 m
2 a
6 m

51 m

74.5 m

86

m

9l7 m
13 a

104? 'T'

3 a

I]

12

13

U

If

a
m
(I)

a

m
a
m
a
5 m
rom
vis m
3 2

h a

j— a

3 2

3
2
I
2
I
21
2;

2(

3"
21

:.8

26

28

H

19.

24,

25.

19.

3

')

a
tn

a
m
a

I9.(

24.(

27.C
16. c
27.C
19. c

J

5fm

6 m

26.0
18.0

y^'b 1749. ,7,

a| H. |Thcr.| Wind. , ^eJV_eatWj^e^er^.

jFiying clouds, ~-'.'~^ """"

Fair. ^

Fair.
rhunder.ftorm,andrafnatnfght

Fair.

Cloudy ; rain at night.

i7.c(NWo(Fair/'^-^'""

AlternateJy fair and cloudy. A halo
RainTe'^'^'r'"^^^^-^"--

tim..r?^'"?."'g'^^- ^" day]

S W 0 (Fair ""rn^^ " >'' ^'i^^^'"^ ^°«'e'-^-
- I r^' A/°'"*^'"«es. flying douds and

S S E I Fair.

^ — ^. W ' Fair,

0 n) 20.0 0 S W I Fair.

^ ^ 33-ol — I I

ml 2i.o|WSWiFair.

Fair.

Fair j fometimes cloudr.

« »-» oj 1 j '

S I Fair,

^-- I Cloudy.
N N E 0 Fair. ^

— o

S S W I Cloudy ; rain.

_ [Pretty fair.

S I Fair.

7 I Cloudy; fomerain.
^ 0 Fair.

C\j.? E'y'"g clouds.

i> W 2 Fair.
S W2
SJ Vy I Alternately fair and cloudy.

i i

I a 27.C
5 m 16.0
I a 27.0

I.] a I ifi.cl

' — Ji

^

2+

j:

( ■ ' ■

i ■

»

m

m

V t

|, :V.

^r f

i 1 ,

f

'\\

jilitw

111* '■ ' 1

\

•j).|

i

■f 1

*' *';

^^ '1 ^

f-: :

' H .

■

^m

;i, :'n

lit

11 'i

ii; : ■ISi

': i!::l

172

D.

H.

24
26

27
28

29
31

6 m

3 ^

5 m

3 a

5 »n

3 a

5 m

3 ^

6 m

a

3

6 m

2 a

6 m

2 a

6 m

1^ at

Then

20.0
29.0

20.0

29*5

21.0
30.0
22.0
21 5

17. 0

27.0
16.0
24.0

July 1749.

WinJ. The Weaiher in general.

Fair.

sw

— I

WSWo
— • o
S o

— I
W I

— I
W I

— i
NW i

■•«•«•.«>.

i4.oNArNW

Fair.
Fair.
Cloudy J intermittent (hewers.

Fair.

Fair ; flying clouds at night, and

(bowers.
Fair.

26.0
16.0
22.0

E I Cloudy } rain almoft all day.

jfu^m

D.

H. 1

1 ]6 m

1 2

1 a

1 '^

im

a

35

m

4

m

2

a :

5

m

a

6S

m 1

3

a I

76

m I

3

a I

86

m 1

3

a 2

96

m I

r

a 2

106

n) li

3

a 2i

116

m li

126

m i^

2

a 2<

137

m 1 1

2

a 3c

146

m 16

2

a 26

156

m 14

2

a 28

165 m 14

3

a 26

i75 ^' 14.

3

2 27.

185 n

' 16.

3

a 29.

196 n

1 17.

3 5

3 30.

205 ir

> 16.

3 a| 28.;

215 m

i7.(

2 a

29.C

5 a

27c

225 m

19.C

3 a

17.-

Ther.i

"—hS^ The Weather In general.

^71

13.0

NEi

ne!

'•r:

Cloudy. Som^ ihowersT

3«If

Fair.

21.0

'w 'JS"''^- ^f.-«»^-l'<'^ night.

NE 2

1^ E 1 JFair.
S W I

Cioudy. ■ Somcfliowers,

ESE^

a I

NE 3 Heavy rain all day.
^ome thModcr..

_ , ^'*'"^y- f'^-cquent fliawcrs.

S Wi

SW 1

— i

SWi

W I
W I

— I

N Wi

NE2

— 2
NE I

S E /
' — I

S 0

— o

1\ r*^""^^!: ^"d rain in the morning. At

W I Fair " '"'''"'"S ^-''"S ^'^"<JS'

— I I
SWo Fair.

S VV , JFalr.
— I

NE2

Cloudy. Somediowers.

Flying clouds.
Ram at night.
Flying clouds.

Cloudy.
Flying clouds.

Fair.
Fair.
Fair.

f'air. At night thunder and rain.
Flying clouds.

Rain all day.

23

< \

iff

, ; 1 ,4,

■i':

: f ;

V

\ fl

f- !

11

jii

^74

'!l

™ ' : m

I'll'

D.

H.

Ther.

23

5

2

ft

16.5
22.5

24

2

a

'3-5
22.0

25
26

5

4
S
3

m
a

m
a

7.0
20.5
13.0
18.0

27

5
2

m
a

10.5
23.0

28

5

m

lO.C

2

a

20.0

29
3^

5

r

m
m
m

13.0
1 1.0
13.6

3

a

iii'5

Augujl 1749.

Wind. The Weather In general.

S \V

SW

S W

NE

S W

SW

N E
N E
S ]

— I

3

3
2

2

2

2

I

I

I

1

I

I

2

2

Rain early in the morning. At 10 m.

flying ctouds.
Flying clouds.

Fair.

Alternately fair and cloudy.
Much rain this afternoon.
Flying clouds. ' ^

Fair. ,^

Fair.

Fair. ''■': '\y

Fair and cloudy alternately.

jlntcrmittent Ihowers.

D.I H. n

3 a

2 sim
2 a
5|m
2 a
6 m

12 a
5I6 m

3

4i

loim
ic4 a

;7 «"

Skim

4 a
9 5'^

3 ^

lJ0|5|m

3 a

III 5i^

3 a

7 m

a

lya

I a

12

2
I
I
li

'7
22

^5

28

25.
16.
26.
I5.(

25.<

14.J

Uiii

Sim

2 a
St^

3 a

rr

-I

'9 6 m

3 a
6 m

3 «

6 m

3 a

6 m

3 a

14.C
24.5
15.0
22.5
16.0
19.0,

8. J

20.5

12.0
17.0
27.0
140
26.0

19.0
26.0

150

'9-5
13.0
22.0

4

iO

11

12

Sipumber ly^g, ^^^

Wind. I Th^.«beMj.ge„,„l.

: ^ V 2 I;: rS% p

Fair. T' •, • ^ ^.i

Somewhat cloudy. No«,»d,he„j„.,.

SW I Fog and rain; "

„— I Fair. ,' •:

N^E 2 Fair.
FNEofFair.
iNNE^lFair.
N £ J (Fair.
N E 2^ IFair.

iNNEsJFair. Forenoon, a halo roun I the fu„

'NNETlFafr.

S W I

s \v /

Fair.
Fair.

Fair.

iia

Fair.
jCjo^Jy. ''.r-n towards night.

Somewhat cloudy. ^

l!i|i#

' : M

' I

h\

!M I

,) : f, 1

' 11 i

' -I

>•■ '

I

L

i ■:

d

2?

.1 ■

>. 1

li ' :

im

ii :•:

! t;

ilMii

176

September 1749*
Wind. The Weather In general.

Fair.

Fair. Rain at noon.

Flying clouds in the afternoon.

Alternately clear and cloudy.

Fair.

Cloudy and rainy.

Rainy all dajr.

Heavy rain all day*

Fog. I '

Flying clouds.
Drizzling rain.
Somewhat cli*.

OBoher 1749.

D.

H.

I

yirr.

w

2

7 m

3

6 m

I a

4

6 m

5

6 m

a

6

6i m

7
8

3 «

2 a
6 j. rr.

i3

Ther.
9.0

2.C

3-5

ii2rO

II. o

10.5

11.0

ICO
12.0

10. c
I4.C

7.0
I8.C

Wind.

N W I
— 1
W I

S W I
■— I
S I

N E I

The Weather in general.

Rain.

Somewhat fair. .

Hoar froft this morning. Fair all

Fair.

Rain.
Cloudy. -

ENE I JRainallday.
— I

ENE I

S I

S I

Flying clouds.
Fair.

ME'

Ma
Durin

D.jThei

Mori:

1 22

2 20

3 23

4 22

i

18

6

18

7

22

\

9

10

H

II 22

12

25

n

23

'4

25

M 24

16 22

17 23
\%\ 25

'9

20

23

2lj 24
22 18
231 15

2-]

I 22

25 22

26 23

27

19

28

24

29

25

METEOR(

P 25 (

V

01. IT.

2

2

2

3
3

3<
3^

3^
37

36

cneral.

ETEORI

/ *>ir. joHW Bartram, near PA//^^ /./.•
During my Abftnce, i„ ^hc Su/ T ^^^^^'^^^'^'
^.-.^^ .* '"u^..^"'""cr of the Year 17^9.

D'lTher.lTher

^V'"-!- ) The Weather !. gen.,,,.

/ ^

Voi< ir.

N

7«ii

mm

I !t; .'

: .1

■^\\^'i

I 'i I

Iflli'M?': '!

I i

r, ,

^

■ MI

■ -i:

■^^%

July 1749"

K I,

D

Ther.
Morn

Ther

I

2

3

4

5
6

7
9

10

II

J2

13
14

15

i6

17
i«

19

20
21
22

23

24

25
26

27
28
29

30

3i

Aft.

21

30

18

11

26

24

36

22

32

22

34

20

35

20

35

20

29

16

29

17

33

20

35

22

33

26

30

20

29

21

30

29

29

18

19

18

33

19

33

22

31

23

23

23

25

20

36

27

36

28

32

24

30

19

27

23

30

30

34

21

34

Wind.

The Weather in general.

£).fT

■

M

w

B

N W

1 ]

s w

Heavy ftiowcrs.

1 ^1 '

N W

1

W

H

NW

Rain.

B '

W

Hard fliowera.

■

N E

Rain.

1 8 li

N

Fair.

1 91:

N

Fair.

■

N W

Fair.

H ij II

W

Fair. Rain at night.

■ 12 14

W

Fair.

1 13 li

W

Hard ftiowcrs.

1 M 18

N

Fair.

1 '5 '5

E

Rain.

1 '^ 23

N E

Cloudy.

■ '7 '4

N E

Rain.

■ 4 18

W

Fair.

H 19 is

W

Fair.

; * :' B 20 ?o

w

Fair.

■ 21 20

w

Heavy (bowers.

■ 22 23

w

Heavy Ihowcrs.

1 ^3 '7

w

Fair. .

I H 18

w

I 25 20

w

■ 26 10

w

Fair.

■ 27 12

w

Fair.

■ 28

'3

w

Rain.

1 ^9

22

1 30

^7

■ 3'

20

A^ay/I

*.

t^.\Th

^uguft

er.

Morn

(Therl Wind.
Aft.

749.'

The Weath

179

er in general.

18

4 18

5 22
6| 18

17

91 '2
10 13
ij II

12 144

13 18 I 3

14 18

'5 '5

16

23

'7 '4

18 i8 ■i^

'9| '8 25

?o I 26

i| 20 25

23 34

32
30

39
37
27

25

24

24

25

30
I

30
30

33
34

20
2

22
231

25
26

27

28

29
30
3^

18

20
10

22

34
30

32

24

12 20

'3 I 23
24

7 I 25
29

20

W

N2

w

NW

N W
Nw
N W
NW

NW
W
W
N

NW
W

s w

N E

NW

NW

W

w

NWbyW

NW
NW

w

E
E

i:i

I 1 1

Rain.

Rain,

Fair.
Fair.
Fair*
Fair.

ili

1

^'

f 1

■ t i ■

1

r

• 1

: 1

)

Na

Stpumlif

mm

I

V \

<■ I*

■ ^ '1*

fi m

Seftmber 1749.

The Weather in general.

Hrrd fhowers.

Rain.

Rain.

Cloudy.

CloiiHy,

Cloudy.

Cloudy.

Rain.

Kaiti.

Thunder- florm.

05iober 1749.

D.

Ther.

Ther.

M.

Afr.

I

13

25

2

14

29

?

8

15

4

n

29

Wind.

W

N W
N
W

D

Ther,

Ther.

■

M.

Aft.

5

17

30

6

18

30

7

16

21

8

IJ

22

Wind.

E

E

NW

NW

m

Between For,, ^„„e .^ St. PrcJeric. , 8,

Jt:^6 1'i!-, tiAY''^ ^' s- "P-

place where we leftT , be/ore „c got to the
try which we naffeH t T '°'"'- '^^'^ ^"»n-

a row of am,2inf hth moT, -'^ ""''^'"^ '^"'

fo-d udi/^cultto^et ollv "' '"•"^""'^
<o land and boil our dinner ^^"' '" *'"^"
'he ground, which was verv fmo \"""^ P'""*
'vater. and looked iTke ill t )' ^" ""'*"
moraffes which are n.!nr/ 1 °' °"^ •^"'^'*)»
•his reafon the D .^'^n J^; '° *"= "^^ ^ '-
the ■p-^WX.^tr^s^^f^/;" there parts
run from S. S. W. to N N F a """""tains
come to the rivi-r ,k- c ' ^t*" '^hen they

The river runs "or the H'a '"'."'«"""''«•
together from fouTh to LrtS"" °' '''"*= ■""«

a" rowedl^^S^^r.Cld'f ^' ^"«'' ^"^
vifions wereeaten to-daTat br 'ataft ""rh' ^'■°-
was freqiientlv an P«L,7> ■, ' The river

then iebe\ameLrrowS TndV"' T' '''°'''

but upon the whole i 1 "1;"^^°?" ''/f '''^•

was furrounded on both fX' VT'^ t''"^'^' """^

About lix o'clockTn £ ''^ 'I'S'' """""tains.

at a point of land abo- • ''.'"'"^' ^'^ "'""^'^
fromVort St Fr'e^nT pT''! t^^^ """^
river is convertedTmo IVn • '"1 "''=' P°'"t ihe
wind mil icept bo^in?p^r;rf^'^7'"''^=
-h. it waf impoffibfeCuVlr^fctw/ri^

A- virdfanktfie land-n.

N3

iinct

M

f

M^r

• !l

ff '

Hi

!H#

J f-

r

.H

i

Ir ■

n -^ '

^,^

« f , 'J

.'•^H

Ml 1^

1

^''i

■

- ■

' " 1

1 ■

vM

'i = n^tfH

i :,]H

i!

?

U pi'

l;l

!l:i

1S2 J^^ 1749-

fincc we were extremely weak. We were
therefore obliged to pafs the night here, in fpite
of the rcmonjirances of oui* hungry ftomachs.

It is to be attributed to the peculiar grace of
God towards us that we met the above mentioned
Frenchmen on our journey, and that they gave
us leave to take one of their bark boats. It
feldoni happens once in three years, that the
French go this road to Albany ; for they com-
monly pafs over the lake St. Sacrament, or, as
the En^liJJj call it, lake George, which is the
nearer and better road, and every body wondered
why they took this troublefome one. If wc
had not got their large flrong boat, and been
obliged to keep that which wc had made, wc
would in all probability have been very ill off;
for to venture upon the great bay during the
lead wind with fo wretched a velTel, would have
been a great piece of temerity, and we (hould
have been in danger of being ftarvcd if we had
waited for a calm. For being without firc-armf,
and thefe deferts having but few quadrupeds,
we mufl have fubfifled upon frogs and fnakes,
which, (efpecially the latter) abound in thefe
part!=;. I can never think of this journey, with-
out reverently acknowledging the peculiar care
and providence of the merciful Crea..

July 2(i. Early this mornir^ l .-t out
on our journey again, it being moon-(hine and
calm, and we feared left the wind (hould change
and h,-come unfavourable to us if we ftcpped
We all rowed as hard as poflible,
arrived about eight in the morning
Frederic, whic'a the Englijh call

Croicn

any

a.id I'jppily
at Fort St.

Port St. Frederic.

J 83

Crown Point. Mon/ipnr r r , ^

nor, received us.ZZltt^^''Z' "'' S"^""

t"-. and had m de'^S,' 7''^ P°'"= '""-

fountry, by which he I,!,? "''"'" '"'° '^is

knowledge of feveralfhin f'^9'"^«d an cxadt

I WAS informed i«df •'""!!"' '° "^ ««'•

and ,hat they had „o h °H^ ' '"'^ ''"" J'"-.
(prins. The exceffivc hit "if Z"'" ^'"« '^^
growth of plants ■ and o .■ ^ . '""'''^'^ '^e

the fmall trees whiih' "'^^^ ^"''6 dried up ;
by the fun, h d : he S;r "'" ^^^'''"' ''"'^1
the fields bore a !er„ T'.'"'^ "^^ ^°^" in
wheat had no^yet ear?^ 'T^'^ ^^Pf^- The

h'o/ro.«s. The' grr; d' :: f:,ri^ p^'^ -

deep cracks, in whfc'n ,1, f- , . "'"^'= and
?"'! hid th;„;,- , 2 „"her pur^ Jnakes retired
""pregnable afylum ^"^' "' '"'° an

;ind. which L'dVe L' f r^ ;i%, 1^^'^' -'^ -^^
^ve. One of the chlf r ^ i^^ "^""'^ ^^ten-

.-«. the numeVotfi :'SLlt' "^^^"^^
"1 the woods, throu<.h Vn ^P." ^"^'y y"r

W/i7.7.. who freauenfll ''^^ "^'='<^''5«"'^ of the
"'=y are h..nS 5,,^^ ^T" '^"'' ''^''^
*oods when everrthi:,;-;^;"*'^"--'''^ fir

"^"^ made for thi. uf-fn V F°'^ «g''la(ions

'J"% owing to the car?7/'' f ^'^''^'^ ''«
S 10 tne caie and zeal of a fin-.I^

* perlon.

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perfon. froirt heiice it appears, ho# Well 9
tifeful fcienee is received and (ct off, 'rhen the
leading men af a country are its patrons. The
governor of tl>e fort was pleafcd to fhew me a
long paper, which the then governor-general of
Canada, the Marquis la Gal/fonmere, Imd fent
him. h: was the fame marquis, who, fome
years after, as a French admiral, engaged (he
Bnglijh fleet under admiral Byng, the confe-
quenc^ of which was the conqueft of Minorca.
In this writing, a numher of trees and plants
are mentioned, which grow in North- America,
^nd deferve to be colleifled and culrivatcd on
account of their ufeful qualities. Some of them
are defcribed, among which is thq Poly gala
Senega, or Rat tk-fnake-roGt ; and with feveral
of them the places where they grow are men-
tioned. It is further requefled that all kinds of
feeds and roots be gathered here ; and, to affift
fuch an undertaking, a method of preferving
tbe gathered feeds and roots is prefcribed, fo
that they may grow, and be fent to Paris. Spe-
eimensof all kinds of minerals are required; and
all the places in the French fettlements are men-
tioned, where any ufeful or remarkable (lone,
earth, or ore has been found. There is like-
ivife a manner of making obfervations and col-
lecftions of curiofities in the animal kingdom.
To thefe rcqucfts it is added, to enquire and get
information, in every poflible manner, to what
purpofe and in what manner the Indians employ
certain plants and other produdions of nature,
as medicines, or in any other cafe. This ufe-
., .j...,„^. .,^. u„ Qr(]er of the marquis

lui papt^r wtio uiavvij uy i^y

Fort St. Frederic.

li,

improved by the marnn.'e*. , corrected and

the officers in TefoL'/yt '''/""' '° ""
learned men who trav led "n /he'""^ '° °'^''
the end of the wMnl- ' ■ • '''^""^T- At
officers, °o let hi ^ " '" '"•'""«'°" '" 'he
which of the comlnn^7n"°'-f" "^' ''""^
grcteft dil gence i^h" H r^'"* ''^'^, "'"^^ 'h''
of plants and other natural cu foS, If '^
might be able to oromore ,K. L ' ^^^ ^e

portunitv occarred^To nl ^J '^'''" '" °P-

ether manne!: I fo'nnrf th/t Te 1^" of d.7

tafc for iatu alhiftorv ; J''*," "'"'^'^ g^-=««

raturc than^^ he 17 /-^ °"r' P"'' "^ ""='
was everv h.2 r T"^^'^' colonies, ft^here it

fcle aZ ? ^ " ^°'u "^" ''"'' etnploytnent ,"
icrape a fortune together, and xvher^ .K» rJ-
were hpW ;.. . • r i wnere the Iciences

V^ere iicid in unxverfai contempt.* It was ftill

complained

snd how would the inhabitants ir^^^^

g^,r at prefent almoft inlXTarde„ ' ^A^"' ^''^^P'^"'^' ^^i^'*
'«iized in Old Ef,nl J/ u j ? ^ "* and are as if it were naf.t

and by the ^i;t r^'l^^^^^^^

on Dr. Z.W./, „ew edition ofhi??^ ^ "f"? ^^'^ "^ an eyi

{merua have contributed - o!l,l! ?i *^°"^^""d ^^at the £«eA7j ,'„
J"«ory than an/ S "^n^r t ^'''''^^^^^' P^^'^o^^ngitura"
^'^e^W. thouah theVl. '^ ^^'''"' ""'^ «"^'"Iy more than
cned by their ^reat mT '"^'^ "^l" ''' ^^^^ handfomely penfi^
that branch of tl^'_r^*V ^'^ ^l'^^^^^" hand the £../.K?t

wa w a miDKing being, without any of thofe

mercenary

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186 ' >^ 1749-

complained of here, that thofe who ftudied na,
tural hiftory, did not fufficiently enquire into
the medicinal ufe of the plants oiCanada,

The French^ who are born in France, are
fdid to enjoy a better health in Canada than in
their native country, and to attain to a greater
age than the French born in Canada, I was like-
wife afTured that the European Frenchmen can do
more work, and perform more journies in
winter, without prejudice to their health, than
thofe born in this country. The intermitting
fever which attacks the Europeans on their arri-
val in Penfyhania, and which as it were makes
the climate familiar to them, is not known here,
and the people are as well after their arrival as
before. The Englip have frequently obferved,
that thofe who are born in America of European
parents, can never bear fea-voyages, and go to
the different parts of South- America, as well as
thofe born in Europe, The French born in
Canada have the fame conftitutions ; and when
any of them go to the Weft-India iflands, fuch
?is Martijiique, Domingo, &c. and make feme
Iby there, they commonly fall fick and die foon
after : thofe who fall ill there feldom recover,
unlefs they are brought back to Canada. On

mercenary views held forth to the learned of other countries.
And as to li.e other parts of literature, the Enghfi in JmricaM
undoubtedly fuperior to the Frencfj in Canada, sMtnefs the many
ufeful inlUtuiions, colleges, and fchools founded in the En^lifi
colonies in North- Jmerica, and fo many very confiderabje libranjs
now ereaing in this country, v^hich contain fuch a choice 0 ire-
ful and curious books, as were very little known in Ca>iada before
it fell into the hands y." ihQE»ghjp; net to mention the produc-
tions of ofiginal genius written by Jmeti.am born. F.

tlic

W Sf. Trederic

87

lUands can more eafily bear the climate ard
a.ta:n a great age there, which I heard confirmed
in many parts of Canada. "nnrmea

M 5th. Whilst we were at dinner we
ffveral times heard a repeated difagreeable „m
cry. at fome diftance from the fo r.^^fhe Hve;
Woodcreek: Mr. Lujignan, the govc nor 0,"
us this cry was no good omen. be«.r. h "con d
conclude from it that the Indians, whom we
efcaped near Fort Anne, had con/pieted hel
align of revenging the death of one of thei'
brethren upon the EngliJ}., and that their ftouts
>ewed that they had killed an Englifi^an H
oon as I came to the windowf 1 faw ,he;,
boat, wuh a long pole at one end, on The x-
rem.ty of wh.ch they had put a bloodyftu^
As foon as they were landed, we heard that they
bemg fix in number, had continued their jo 'r
ney (from the place where we had marks of

m the Enghjh boundaries, where thev found a
man and h,s fon employed in mowing'the corn
They crept on towards this man. and (hot him
dead upon the fpot. This happened near th^

>.ho were then gone out to attack them. Ac-

,cord,ng to the,r cuftom they cut off the ll.ull of

A dead man and took it with them, to^c her

wuhh.s clothes and his fen. who ^as'S t

*^f^;:^''sv?^r"^^'•'^^""'^^^^^^^^

as

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"July 1749.

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as a fign of their fuccefs. They were drcfled In
fhirts, as ufual, but fome of them had put on
the dead man's clothes ; one his coat, the other
his breeches, another his hat, &c. Their faces
were painted with vermillion, with which
their (hirts were marked acrofs the fhoulder?,
Moft of them had great rings in their ear?,
which feemed to be a great inconvenience to them,
as they were obliged to hold them when they
leaped, or did any thing which required a violent
motion. Some of them had girdles of the fkins
of Rattk-fnakes, with the rattles on them ; the
fon of the murdered man had nothing but his
fhirt, breeches and cap, and the Indians had
marked his fhoulders with red. When they got
on (hore, they took hold of the pole on which
the IkuU was put, and danced and fung at the
fame time. Their view in taking the boy, was
to carry him to their habitations, to educate him
inftead of their dead brother, and afterwards to
marry him to one of their relations. Notwith-
Handing they had perpetrated this aft of violence
in time of peace, contrary to the command of
the governor in Montreal, and to the advice of
the governor of St. Frederic, yet the latter could
not at prefent deny them provifions, and what-
ever they wanted for their journey, becaufe he
did not think it advifeable to exafperate thenu
but when they came to Montreal, the governor
called them to account for this adion, and took
the boy from them, whom he afterwards fent
to his relations : Mr. Luftgnan allied them, what
they would have done to me and my compa-
^\r.,.^ if thptr V»:3d met us in the defert ? They|
3 rephed,

F^ort St. Frederick.

189

replied, that as it was their ch.Vf ;«* •
take their revenge on thl ^t / /. ''"'*^" '^
village where thfir b"ol^ t^S'th'^
would have Jet us alone . but i> 1 u ^ ^^^^
ed on the humour they ^ere n •T'' 1'^'"^'
when we firit cao^rt'o Th r"^^^^^^
the commander and all thT^ ^ / -"owever,

it. Th. Indials XiT'lt \*^/^/^'="
it in a fwamr, t-iT ^ "'"^^' ^^ad found

oil: aTw'hen"^ hV;7r "S'"? "^%»''
thought it was ? Tj!i^ T ^^^^* ^^a« they

S,j 7'"'°' *"■< °» *»• >«« 4«Sf ,1;

Whole fnout was vet to he r^.-r> ♦u ^ 7 - ^"®
half mouldered. ^He added tha^^K '^ '^'''
ob&rved. tbatanvnfl u ' ^" ^^ ^^^ "ot

elephants. * """ '^^'^ ''onci, fuppofcd to belong to

He

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190 jfufy 1749-

He had perfedly the fame (hape, and qualities,
as ou common bears in Europe, except the ears,
which feemed to be longer in proportion, and
the hairs which were ftifferj his colour was
deep brown, almoft black. He played and
wreftled every day with one of the dogs. A
vaft number of bear-fkins are annually exported
to France from Canada, The Indians prepare
an oil from bear's greafe, with which in fum-
mer they daub their face, hands, and all naked
parts of their body, to fecure them from the bite
of the gnats. With this oil they likewife fre-
quently fmear the body, when they are excef-
fively cold, tired with labour, hurt, and in other
cafes. They beheve it foftens the ikin, and
makes the body pliant, and is very ferviceable

to old age.

The common Dandelion (Leontodon Taraxa-
cum Linn,) grows in abundance on the paftures
and roads between the fields, and was now in
flower. In fpring, when the young leaves be-
gin to come up, the French dig up the plants,
take their roots *, wa(h them, cut them, and
prepare them as a common fallad ; but they
have a bitter tafte. It is not ufual here to make
ufe of the leaves for eating.

"^uly 6th. The foldiers, which had been paid
off alter the war, had built houfes round the fort,
on the grounds alloted to them 5 but moft of
thefe habitations were no more ^han wretched

\ * In France tlie young blanched leaves, which Scarce peep ou:
' of molehills, and have yet a yellow colour, are univerfairy eaten as
a fallad, under the name oiPiJinlit, F»

cottages.

^ort St. Frederick. j^j

cottages, no better than thof^ ?n ♦!,

wretched places of W.. ti.h th« d?/
rcnce, however thaftK-;-- l i. ^ "'"^'

and pure wheat b^ead^ Th. ^ .""'i-'^ ^""^
bad e'reaed confiftd of holds ftan/'"''' '^'^
dicularly clofe to each other ' ^1"'''"^ ?/■■?«"-
of wood too. Thecrrvt/; ^'"=/°«'f« were
with day. to keep the rol^ ^^'^ ^°^^'^ "P
was commonly cU or T ™-, The floor
which is con^lnTe're. ' The het,i*r-1°"?'

waft:?"' ;°-' -«pt thlji^ce'w trthe'S

wastoly, which was made of grey fand-fto„e

TuaS "oleT" T r fi'^ °f P-iSerof
?n /l!!'fi 1 ''""'"'' *''= ftones quite clofe
to the fire-place were lime-ftones ; h^weve r
was aflured that there was no danger of «;/
efpecally af the ftones. which wereloft e^S'
ed to the heat, were ofalar<»e fi,e TK T^'
«o glafs in their windows! " ^^^^ ^^'^

July 8th. The Galiwn tinBorium is calleH
'^{-"yaune rouge by the French throughou aH

thifcdour rt-p' V' ^'''^'^'» ^^^''"ge

ro-pV^hirrSfi-^rh/heffz^

winTr „'1°T^^^. ?^.^. '^fl°"f of doors during the
' '"" ""° '"""-^ood in the woods, living

upon

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1*1 :i

J 9.2 5^«^ 1749-

upon nothing but dry plants, which are Very
abiindant -, h.owev.er tliey do not fall off by this
foQjd, but look very fine and plump in fpring.

Ju/y 9th. The fkeleton of a whale wa^
found Tome Frenc/t miles from ^ebeCy and one
French n)Jle frotp the river St. Laurence, in a
place where no flowing water comes to at pre-
fent. This ikeJeton has been of a very confi-
.derable fize, and the governor of the fort faid,
he had fpoke with feveral people who had feen

it.

July 10th. The boats which are here made
pfe of are of three kinds, i. Bark^bcatSy made
of the bark of trees, and of ribs of wood. 2.
Canoesy confiHing of a fingle piece of wood, hoU
lowed out, which I have already defcribed be-
fore. They are here made of the white fir,
and of different fizcs. They are not brought
forward by rowing, but by paddling; by which
method not half the ftrength can be applied ;
which is made ufe of in rowing ; and a fingle
man might, I think, row as fafl: as two of them
could paddle. 3. The third kind of boats are
Bateaux. They are always made very large
here, and employed for large cargoes. They
are flat-bottomed, and the bottom is made of
the red, but more commonly of the white oak,
which refifts better, when it runs againfl: a ftone,
than other wood. Tlie fides are made of the
white fir, becaufe oak would make the Batm
too heavy. They make plenty of tar and pitch

here.

The foldiery enjoy fuch advantages here, as
ihey are nOt allowed in every part of the world*
'" ^ ~ Thole

'^ort St, Prcderic. -,.

Thofe who formed \\m> r.. -r r ,
''ad a very p,e„S iflL^^f L^i t." ^'^^
half of wheat brea/ Th7 '^tl ' .^""""^ «"d a
bacon, and fa.t Jeltin p^X'^T'ir '"J^'
kill oxen and other catHe Vk ^''°'n«imes they
Jiftributed a„,o„g [h^^di rs 'tllfhe'l^' "

P'y then,! 'The^foldr/htdVStf" '.^ '"''-
den without the fort whf/h ,K '^'" S^""^

to attend, and plant i„t 1,,'^ ^"u '"°^'^'^
and fome of them Ld I -Zr" ^^'y ^^^^^i
them, and plant d SuJ.d .'"'"u''-''""'"" >"
governor told me .h i° P"''^''^'' The

to allow the foldiers a LLf ' ^-'"'"'' ^"^°'"
gardens, at fuch Tf hSfHo" /h^ ''f '^"-
as were not fituated „. "^ hereabouts

whence they CO Mb, fuonVr"- J°^"^' ^^°™

ti- of peaJe thefofdle^ate vT^'jifrr* J,''
With bein^ upon a,,ar^ ,^ I r^ "^^ trouble
lakecloriyrf^,,^;;^^^^ ;J« fort, -^ - the

with birds and animak th^r "'?'^' ^^°""«1

choofe to be d.-li^t 1 r""°"Sft them who

-'f very grand ir^e^ardltd^Tftr;"'
got a new, coat everv mL . ^^'"'^ f°''''"

a waiftcoat, cap ha7 h^ T"' ' ''"' ^"""'"y-
of stockings, U^'o'pJir'^TfcTn"' '"° 4

i-".^e^Cedto^rtyfKh7„7hXtn?

par*

lili

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194 • >^y '749-

particular labour for the king. When this ij
confidered, it is not furprifing to find the men
are very frelh, well fed, ftrong and lively here.
When a foldier falls fick he is brought to the
hofpitalj where the king provides him with a
bed, food, medicines, and people to take care of
and ferve him. When fome cf them afked leave
to be abfent for a day or two,, to go abroad, it
was generally granted them, if circumftances
would permit, and they enjoyed as ufual their
fhare of provilions and money, but were obliged
to get fome of their comrades to mount the
guard for them as often as it came to their turns,
for which they gave them an equivalent. The
governor and officers were duly honoured by the
foldiers ; however, the foldicrs and officers often
fpoke together as comrades, without any cere-
monies, and with a very becoming freedom.
The foldiers who are fent hither from Franct,
commonly ferve till they are forty or fifty years
old, after which they are difmifTed and allowed
to fettle upon, and cultivate a piece of ground.
But if they have agreed on their arrival to ferve
no longer than a certain number of years, they
are difmiffed at the expiration of their term.
Thofe who are born here commonly agree to
ferve the crown during fix, eight, or ten years >
after which they are difmifTcd, and fet up for
farmers in the country. The king prefcnts each
diimi^^ed foldier with a piece of land, being
.commonly 40 artents * long, and but three

broad,

* h

of thoie

\r,Arpent in France contains 100 Frrw.^jerches and each
ie 22 French icet j then the Fntuh fuut uemg 10 '"^^'^i'-'^^

Fort St. Ffederic. ,

broad, if the foil h» ^c ■
out; but thev It fn "^"f' ^°°''"''"* •''^°"gh-
worfe ground/ /:T^''" "'''^^' 'f ■^ <>« a

*d by the kin.. Cho r!n r'^' u' "^ ^' ''^'^ =■««-
and children^iTh ° P?''" '"™'^'^' '"« wife.

or four firr/earVS °klS Hk '"^ • "'^ '''"^
cow. and the moft nccelrv "'« ^"" '"" '
agriculture Som» r^ij- ^ 'nftruments for

in building a ^Zt'^V^.^V:^^^ ''-
them. Thefe are sreat hll n! . '"^ P^^

who begins ,0 keep^houfe at i?,-" P°°r^"'
a country where »h» , " '"^'"'s that in

guifl^ed ^y"h Top S: \T ^V'''^'"^''''^'"-
at a loft for foldierr F Y u '""« """»' be

and population of cLf. a :, ''^r '^."'''''«'°"

pofed l^tne years ago 1; L£" ^'' ''"" P"-" '
trom Francl every yj° t\^. f ° ««" "ver

old foldiers niay JJILL ^f^ ""''"' «he
fettle in the coun trT^ t1J\ f ^^Lr^^-^'' ""^
lotted to the foldie7; ablut th," j'"'' "" ="*
good, confifting throuX „ . ^ ?' "^^^ ^^^X
mixed with clay "''°"S''°"' °* « deep mould,

of a triangular form rt '^"V<='^°f wood, and
S lorm. The p-,oughs fccmed to

Pan., ,687. p. , , J. p."' "-"" ^'V- >-■ V"" A^ £.«.v tf /••r/,,.

0^ league ; but as this do-'s hi no ^'^ °* '^""^ ^'' ^ ^'^^^>^ I'z..

pent of Z'.^,,,,, which by^ordir o^t'"' '/^''^' ^^'^^ ^^^^ ^'^'"'^ ar-
2200 feet, />../, meafure /fee tL "? ^'^"'" ^^^^' ^^'^^ ^^d at

P" to leave it cut of the ti. f ^''"'^"'^ ''''^ ^^ '^°"ght prt

o

2

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196

July 1749'

1' i'M \\

be left convenient. The wheels upon which
the plough-beam is placed, are as thick as the
wheels of a cart, and all the wood-work .s fo
clumfily made that it requires a horfe to draw
the oloueh along a finooth field. , , . ,
Rock-stones of different forts lay fcattercd
on the fields. Some were from three to five
feet high, and about three feet broad. They
were p?etty much alike in regard to the k.nd of
the ftone. however. I oblerved three diftcrert

foecies in them. ^ r \

^ t Some confifted of a quartz, wViofe colour

refembled fugar-c.ndy. and which was mixed
w th a black fmall-grained glimmer, a black
horn-ftone. and a few '"in-te gramsof a browa
foar The quartz was moa abondant in the
Sure. tl?e glimmer was Ukew. em great
quantity, but the fpar was incon iderable. 1 he
Several kinds of ftones were well mixed, and
.hough the eye could diftjnguiA -hem. y^t^o
inftrument could feparate them. The ftone w"
very hard and coropad. and the grains of quarts

looked verv fine, » ^ c

2. Some pieces confifted of grey particles of
quartz, black glimmer, and horn-ftone, toge-
ther with a few particles of Ipar, which ma .
a very clofe, bard, and compait mixture, only
differing from the former in colour.

, A few of the ftones confifted of a mixture
of white quartz and black glimmer, to which
fome red grains of quartz were added, ine
S (quarti) was molt predominant jn this mix-
ture. and the glimmer appeared m large Jato.
This ftone was not fo well mixed as the former.

anu

^ort St. Frederic. ,p.

of alJ kmds, and chiefly the followinV '

whole ftrata are .et wi^iX ^ ^^0"
»quant.ty of (hells of this fort, grown To" Lr
Lh'3nTar.r"^ ''"^."' ""^^ «ceedf„g :

always .he i.prefilons R':tZlJl,^^T
low furfaccs of the fliellc „ -.u ^''

nf fk /I- M , "^ells, without any veftiV^.

the real (h^U i;i' V ^^^^ ^^^^^^ appears
real (hdl ibck.ng m the ftone, and by its

Fwrt. Introd. to Min. p? 9? p?" ^"''■-'/^'''"* M'^us cu/c^r^„.

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light colour is eafily diftinguifliable from the
ftone. Both thefe kinds are plentiful in the
flonej however, the impreffions are more in
number than the real (hells. Some of the (helh
arc very elevated, efpecially in the middle, where
they forni as it were a hunnp ; others again are
deprelTed in the middle 5 bat in mod of them
the outward furface is remarkably elevated.
The furrows always run longitudinally, or from
the top, diverging to the margin.

Petrijied Corniia Ammonis. Thefe are like-
wife frequently found, but not equal to the
former in nurnber : like the /t-^/W/^, they arc
found really petrified, and in impreffions j
amongil them were fome petrified fnails. Some
of thefe Cornua Atnmonis were remarkable big,
and I do not remember feeing their equals, for
^hey meafured above two feet in diameter.

Different kinds of corals could be plainly
feen in, and feparated from, the ftone in which
they lay. Some were white and ramofe, or
Liihophytes ; others were Harry corals, or Ma-
drepores-, the latter were rather fcarce.

1 MUST give the name of Stone-balls to a kind
of flones foreign to me, which are found in
great plenty in fome of the rock-ftones. They
were globular, one half of them projedlng ge-
nerally above the rock, and the other remaining
in it. They confiil of nearly parallel fibres,
which arife from the bottom as from a center,
and fpread over the furface of the ball and have
a grey colour. The outfide of the balls is
fmooth, but has a number of ffiall pores, which
externally appear to be cgvered with a pale grey

cruli.

Fon St. Frederic.

i

crufl. They are from an inch

99

half in diam'eter: ' " "' '" '" '"'*' '""^ »

Amongst fome other kinds of& which

were very pecuhar, and copinionly lay in the

tZIT'' ^"'^ °"« «:'«'' Wack, ai^d the other
reddifl, b own, or granite coloured.

of verv fine "- «'^f3fs lies uppermoft. confifts
oi very fine grams, wh.ch, when e:(,mined by

ilcTthf °r' /PP'l^ ^° ''^'^^ "^ ^'^^ bL colour!
l.kethat of a fmooth iron, not attacked by ruft

i'^whh t--"°r">' ^'' '"Oft of .h4 ^i*:
gular, with Ihuiing furfacesj and they fparkle
when the fun fhines. All the grainLfhis
fand wjthput exception are attrtacd by the
magnet, i^mongft tbefe black or dee? b ue
grams, they weet with a few grains of aU or

the f^dfand which l.es itninediately under it.
and which I /hall now defcribe. This red J;
garne,.CQlpured fand is very fine, but not fo fine

! t "^ ^'"f- ^'' grains not only participate
Of the colour of garnets, but tp.^ are really no!
thing but pounded garnets. Some gra in^s are
round, others angulated* all q>i„e and are fem !
-pe lucid, but the magnet has no effed on them
^nd they do not fparkle fo niuch in funihine'
Th.s red fand is feldom found very pure k
be.ng commonly «>ixed with a white fand. con-
fift'ng of particles of quartz. The biac|c a"d

mentioned" TK^'" P'^"'' '"'''« -'^^ 1^^^°-
mentioned. The uppermoft or hl.rU f^r-* 't-

aboBt a quarter " " " "

O

deepi when it

ca

was
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carefully taken off, the fand under it became
of a deeper red the deeper it lay, and its depth
was commonly greater than that of the former,
When this was carefully taken away, the white
fand ofquartz appeared mixed very much at top
Avith thered fand, but growing purer the deeper
it lay. This white fand was above four inches
deep, had round grainsi which made it entirely
like a pearl fand. Below this was a pale grey
angulated quartz fand. In fome places the gar-
ivet-coloured fand lay uppermoft. and this grey
angulated one immediately under it, without
a grain of either the black or the white fand.
' I CANNOT determine the origin of the black
or fteel-coloured fand^ for it was not known here
whether there were iron mines in the neighbour-
hood or not. But I am rather inclined to be-
lieve- they may be found in thefe parts, as they
are common in different parts ot Canada, and as
this fand is found on the (hores of almoit all the
lakes, and rivers in Canada, though not m
equal quantities. The red or garnet-coloured
fand has its origin hereabouts 5 for though the
rocks near F^rt St. Frederic contained no gar-
Bets, yet there- are ftones of different fizes on
thefliores, quite different from the ftones which
form thofe rocks 5 thefe ftones are very full of
grains of garnets, and when pounded there is no
perceptible difterence between them and the red
land. In the more northerly parts of Camda,
or below ^eifec, the mountains ihemfelves con-
tain a great number of garnets. The garnet-
coloured fand is very common on the ftiores of
" ' . the

Port St. Frederic. joi

(he river St. Laurence. I (hall leave out feveral

t"ZT "'"'''•' ""'^^ "P°" «he ,; ner
readers! '' ""'"te^^fting to moft of my

The ^/^fv„«»? androfamifolium grows in a-
undance on h.lls covered whh tree^ and." f„
full flower about this time, tlie i^-r^c// call ^
E^rbea lafuce. When the ftalk is cut or tore
a «h.te m.lfcy juice comes out. The fZA
a tnbute the fa,T,e qualities to this plant, whfch
.be po.fon-tree. or /?/;„, ^.;v««.%as i? £
fghjl^ colon.esj that its poifon is noxious t»
fome pedons. and harmlefs to others The
mtlky ju.ce when fpread upon the hands and
booy, has no bad efFed on fotl^e perfons, wLre-

bMtr Tr rioMirur'^V '^^^
irSt^'kr-^'-^-'^SSinThtpS

tls affea S ""V "'"^ "■'' '"'•■'l'"^ ^^hala^

eacf ont P'rP'.'' ^I'^" 'hey come with-

at the l^ ^- ^- '•' generally allowed here.

hat tnc ladtefcent juice of this plant, when

pread on any part of the huti,an body not o^v

ftin'aUearth: '" r"'^"^""^ corVe^S
iKin, at leaft there are few examples of perfons

vith the ju.ce t.il they were white all over and

have often rubbed the plant in ^, hinds till

was qu.te cruAed, without feeliL the leaft

inccnven.ence, or change on mv hand %t

"Ule never touch this Dkn, ^ ''''"'^- ^^^

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July 1749.

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July i2tb. JBuRDQCK, or Jlrclium Lappa,
grows in feveral places about the forti and the
governor told me, that its tender fhoots are eaten
in fpring as raddiQies, after the exterior peel is

taken off. ; . 1 j r

The Si/on Canadeiife ^hoMV^d^ \n the woods of

all North-America. The French call it cerfml
fauvage, and make ufe of it in fpring, in greea
foups, like chervil. It is univerfallypraifed here
as a whofefonie, antifcorbutic plant, arid as one
of the bed which can be had here in fpring.
^ The Jfckpuis Syriaca, or, as the French call
it, le Cotojiicr, grows abundant in the country,
on the fides of hills wdiich lie near rivers and
other fituations, as well in a dry and open place
in the woods, as in a rich, loofe foil. When
the ftalk is cut or broken it emits a ladefcent
juice, and for this reafon the plant is reckoned
in fome degree poifonous. The Fre?ich in Car
nada neverthelefs ufe its tender ilioots in fpring,
preparing them like afparagus j and the ufe of
them is not attended with any bad confequences,
as the ilender flioots have not yet had lime to
fuck up any thing poifonous. Its flowers arc
very odoriferous, and, when in feafon, they fill
the woods with their fragrant exhalations, and
make it agreeable to travel in them, efpecially
in the evening. The French in Canada make a
luaar of the flowers, which for that purpofearc
gathered in the morning, when they are cover-
ed all over with dew. This dew is exprefTed,
and by boiling yields a very good brown, palata-
ble fuear. The pods of this plant, when ripe,

conum a

kind 01 WOUl, Wiiivii wnvAWiv^ xU\^ i*--^/

and

Fort St. Frederic,

ito^

and refembles cotton {rr\rri «rU »

got its French .1^1 The poo "^5'^'^."' ^"^

jnftead of feathers. This nlanf f?^ ■ ' ^ "
at the end of June LTZ -^'^ '" '^'^'""^«
the feeds areS f„ 1^ ^'"."Jr^ °^>^> ""d
Thehorres nevTeaTof'lhirilt °^'^^^*^^^-

fide,i'„ order to eSineT'"", °" "' ^*ft«'«
^riofities there. From , hi f ^ '?'l '"-^ °"^«
a little diftance fl^^lTsTpttVT- ''
ofveryh.gh mountains appear on fh /""^
(hore of lake Q.amplam, l^ZZ. f '"f '^'■"
to north i and on the ?,rt r. ^ ^"^^ ^°"th
another ^hain of hi.h "" ^'^' °^ '^'■'' '^'" ■'«
the fame di eftTon ^Tw""'""^ '"""'"g '"
are not dole o the lIL l°" '^^"ft'^n^fide
twelve miles from it • tl' IT^ '^°"' '^" «>■•
it and them is bw a'nd 1 f^La""''^ '^f^^^'^
woods, which likewife do L 1 ^^"^""^ ^'"^
except in fcuch piTcec . ^S 't ™°""ta''n'',
ftroy the forefts h 're L ^:''' '^'^''='' ''e-

burnt them down The J' '""'^'^ '''^'" ^"^
nerallv fteep fides b„f ^ !"°unta,ns have ge-

noe, wliich could onlv cnnt I ''^ '" ^ ""
snd as foon as we uL A '" *'"'=«' P^^'ons.
Aorc to the top of tK T-"''"'''^ ^^""^ '''^
-very ftee^/a^d tveTerS'a "^'f^"^^''
He great rock-ftones Ly oT the „"°t', if
•nountams are covered with tree? h\ ■ I '*""
Plfes the forefts have "'L'TIl..''"'/" '^™«
"Iter a ereat H,,l -,<■ .....,V' "^"'">=u

great deal of tro;ibI

e, we

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reached the top
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"July 1749-

of one of the mountains, which was covered with
a dufly mould. It was none of the higheft;
and fome of thofe which were at a greater dif-
tance were much higher, but we had no time
to go to them ; for the wind encreafed, and our
boat was but a h'ttle one. We found no curious
plants, or any thing remarkable here.

' When we returnr' -^ the (bore we found
the wind rifen to fucx height, that we did
not venture to crofs the lake in our boat, and
for that reafon I left the fellow to bring it back,
as foon as the wind fubfided, and walked round
the bay, which was a walk of about feven £«^-
UJh miles. I was followed by my fervant, and,
for want of a road, we kept clofe to the (hore,
where we palTed over mountains and fharp
ftones ; through thick forefls and deep marfhes,
all which were known to be inhabited by num-
berlefs rattle-fnakes, of which we happily faw
none at all. The ihore is very full of ftones
in fome places, and covered with large angulated
rock-ftones, which are fomeiimes roundilh, and
their edges as it were worn off. Now and then
we met with a fmall Tandy fpot covered with
grey, but chiefly with the fine red fand which I
have before-mentioned ; and the black iron fand
likcwife occurred fometimes, We found ftones
of a red glimmer of a fine tek'ture, on the moun-
tains. Sometimes thefe mountains with the
trees on them ftiood perpendicular with the vva-
ter-fiJe, but in fome places the fhore was

mar (by.

I SAW a number of petrified Cornua Ainmnn^
in one place, near the fhore, among a .number of

ftones

Fori St, Frederic.

ftones and rocks. The rocks confift of a arev
l.mc-ftone. which is a variety of the Hcfc f ^7
and l.es ,n a (Irata, as that does. Some of them
conta-n a tiumber of petrifadions with a„d
without Aells , and in one place we found oro
d,g^us large Ccrnua AmZnis. about "S
inches in breadth. In fome places the wa^er
had wore off tha ftone. but coiTld not have the
fame effea on the petrifadions, which lay e t
vated above, and in a „.anner glued on' 1^

The ■^o"ntains'We^r''(/,e^'*fliore are amazing
lyh.gh and large, confifting of a compaft ^"fj
rock-ftone. which does not^ ly i„ ftTa^ affi
lime-ftone. and the chief of whofe .onftftuent
parts are a grey quartz, and a dark gl mmcr
Th,s rock-ftone reached down to the wirerir.*
places where the tnountains flood cbro the
Aore, but where they were at fome diftanJe
ron, it they were fupplied by ftrata of grey a„d
ack hme-ftone which reached to thf^ater-
de. and wh.ch I never have feen covered v^hh
the grey rocks. •»■" wua

>he^mn/'^''?i'' ''^"''^'"' S™^s '1 mud/ and In
he moft rapid parts of brooks, and is infM
bloom about this time. ""

July lyth. The difteni]iers which ra<.e
among the Indians are rheumafifins ^TpkurZ
which anfe from their being obliged frCeS
°V" '"°'« P"t5 of the woods at nightYS

i t"ei"f r' '^"^ ^"'^ -"• '° -hTch

requntvInLH ^T'' '"'^ ^^'X" their being

^^,f:^^, '- g-»t - quantity Si

•o •.^-.. xu wwcn cale they commonly ly

down

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«o6 >^ 1749-

down naked ih tht open air, without any regard
to the feafonj or the weather. Thefe diftcm-
pers, cfpedally the pleurifies, arc likewife very
common among the French here j a-nd the goi
vernor told me he had once a very violent fit of
the latter, and that Dr. Sarrafin had cured him
in the following manner, which has been found
to fuccced beft here. He gave him fudorifics,
which were to operate between eight and ten
hours J he was thfen bled, and the fudorifics re-
peated j he was bled again, and that efFcftually
cured him.

Dr. Sarrcfin was the royal phyfician at %?-
i?ecy and a correfpondent of the royal academy of
fcienccs at Paris, He was poffefTed of great
knowledge in the pradlice of phyfic, anatomy,
and other fcicnces, and very agreeable in his be-
haviour. He died at ^lebec of a malignant fe-
ver, which had been brought to that place by a
jtliip, and with which he was infeded at an hof-
pital, where he'vifncd the fic He left a fon,
who likewife (hidied phyfic, ana nt to France
to make hinifclf n^.ore perfed in ^e pradlical
part of it, but he died there.

The intermitting fevers fometim.. come
amongft the people here, and the venereal aifeafe
is common here. The Indicuu are likewife in-
{^O.t^ with it ; and many of them have had it,
and fome (lill have it ; but they likewife are per-
fei^tly poiiclied of the art of curing it. There
are examplei^ i:^^ Frenchmen and Indians, infeded
all over the body with this difeafe, who have
been radically and peile<rtly cured by ihc Indians,
xv\th\n fiyp- t^r fiY rpon'li^- The FreTick havc_

„o,|

Fort St. Frederic. ^^^

not been able to find this remedy out • thonoh
they kno v that the Indians emnJ^ ' tftough

but .ha: cheir chief '7^:7^?,:: :^^^i^[y'

unknown to the French I V. c *''
heard what thefe ZZltJ tP ."^'^'^"^d*
count of them at C\T,l' ^ §"^" "" «^-
demy of fcie^ce, * ^ '''' '"^'^ "^^^^^ «"-

woX The/a&s^ii:; ili rhe^"^^-

North-* American colonies- bnt n r ^ f-^

are very frequent Snm ' ' r u r ^''''''^^ ^^^X
jr ictjucnr. Some of thefe worms whiVK

■hey eome. thoui .L e",,." f"/ ^T ^''^^^^
/^/y 19th. Fort St, Frederic i^ a f^r^-fi

The breadth of this \Zr ■ Z \ ^""-""^"t,
niufcet-rhor -vu ^ ,' ''^"' ^bout a good

m whofe hands l^di "'•<;„ t'"^'^"*'"''^''^'

of the Pre;:,/, cZt rT •'".'^ '"^"''gement

"^'' court oi admirahy was at the

_„; See .l,eMe,„o;.of.W Academy, fo. .h. ,„,,„,. ^^^^

1 "' *'■%" V-vV. :., f „b.,bly one of .hcfc roo:. P.

time

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ytiiji 1749.

time of the erection of this fort : Pot it is to h*
obfcrved,,that the government of Canada is fub*
jcd to the court of admiralty in France, and the
governor-general is always chofcn out of that
court. As mofl of the places in Canada bear the
names of faints^ cuftom has made it necefTary to
prefix the word Saint to the name of the for*
trefs. The fort is built on a rock, confifting of
black lime-flates, as aforefaid 5 it is nearly qua-
drangular, has high and thick walls^ made ot the
fame lime-done, of which there is a quarry about
half a mile from the fort. On the eaftern part
of the fort is a high tower, which is proof againft
bombfhells, provided with very thick and fub-
flantial walls, and well flored with cannon from
the bottom almoft to the very top; and the go-
vernor lives in the tower. In the terre-plein of
the fort is a well built little church, and houfes
of ftone for the officers and foldiers. There are
iliarp rocks on all iides towards the land, beyond
acannon-Qiot from the fort, but among them are
fome which are as high as the walls of the fort,
and very near them.

The foil about fort St, Frederk is faid to be
very fertile, on both fides of the river; and be-
fore the lad war a great many French families,
efpccially old foldiers, have fettled there; but
the king obliged them to go into Canada, or to
fettle clofe to the fort, and to lie in it at night.
A great number of them returned at this time,
and it was thought that about forty or fifty fami-
lies would go to fettle here this autumn. Within
one or two mufket-fliots to the eafl of the forf,
is a wind-mill built of flone, with very thick

wails,

Fort Sl Frederic.

209

wall . and moft of ,he flour which is wanted ,0
fupply th. fort ,V ground here. This vL-
mill >s io contrived as to fcrve the purpo'lofa
redoubt and at the top of it arc fiv/or ^""fi
p-eces of can,K,n. During the laft war there
was a number o fold.ers quartered in this mil)
becaufe they could from thence look a g.ent w ''
«p he r.ver and ohferve whether the eZZ
boats approached , which could not be done ffo^t
the ffirt nfelf, and which was a nurter of « ea
confcquence, as the Englifi „,ight (if this guard
had not been placed here) have gone in'their
little boats dole under the weftern" (l,ore of the
mer and. then the hills would have preven cd
the,r bemg feen from the fort. Therefore the
fort ought to have been built on the fpot where
the m.ll ftands, and all thofe who come to fee t
a e .mmedtately (truck with the abfurdiry of is

5 rh n ^^ " ^:^^''" "'^'^ i" 'he place
of the m.ll, u would have commanded the river

and prevented the approach of the 6,,,a>y ; and
a fmall d.tch cut through the loofe lime-ftone
from the nver (which comes out of the lake s'*
TT<^ to lake CAamph>„, would have fur^
rounded the fort with flowing water, becaufe it
would have been fituated on the extremity o
he neck of land I„ ,hat cafe the fort wo^uid
always have been fufficiently fupplied with frefa
water, and at a diftance f/om the high rocE
wh,ch furrounded it in its prefent fituation. We
prepared to-day to leave this place, having wait-
ed dur,ng [om,: days for the arrival of the yacht

L; , Pl:«, ^°"«^ntly all fummer between the

lorts b(. jo/,„ and St. Frederic: dmm,r r..,r n...

Vol. U. p ■ ^ --, —J'

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210

>/k 1749.

H.

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here, we had received many favours. The go-
vernor of the fort, Mr. Lufignarit a man of
learning and of great poliiencfs, heaped obliga-
tions upon us, and treated us with as much ci-
vihty as if we had been his relations. I had tiic
Iionour of eating at his table during my /lay
here, and my fervant was allowed 10 eat with
his. We had our rooms, &c. to ourfelves, and
at our departure the governor fupplied us with
ample provifions for our journey to fort St, John,
In (hort, he did us more favours than we could
have expected from our own countrymen, and
the officers wcie like wife particularly obliging
to us.

About eleven o'clock in the morning we fet
out, with a fair wind. On both fides of the lake
are high chains of mountains j with the diffe-
rence which I have before obferved, that on the
eaftern fliore is a low piece of ground covered
with a foreft, extending between twelve and
eighteen EngHJJo miles, after which the moun-
tains begin ; and the country behind them be-
longs to New England. This chain confifts of
high mountains, which are to be confidered as
the boundaries b^'tween the French and Englilh
poffeffions in thefe parts of North America, On
the wellern (hore of the lake, the mountains
reach quite to the water fide. The lake at firfl
is but a French mile broad, but always encreafes
afterwards. The country is inhabited within
a French mile of the fort, but after that, it is
covered with a thick forefl. At the dilhnceof
about ten French miles from fort St. Frederic,
the lake is four fuch miles broad, and v/e per-
ceive

Ml

Lake Chawplain.

ceive fome iflands in it Th,
yucht (aid (here were abonf /5 -^P'*'" "^^ 'hs
i»ke. of which fomrwere^V '^ '.^^"''^ ''" 'hac
He allured me that Th; , , " ™"''^'=^^'''« 'Ize.
<" deep, that a line of twll":." /" '""'^ P"^^
not fathon, it , and clo.rto K -^"'^^^°"''^
cha.n of mountains ^ene allu . ^''"' "''^^-^ »
country. " frequentiv ha^ ^'1 r,:^ l"f ''=
thorns. Fourteen i->,«^/ "fv' <='«'"y '-i-
^W./v^ we faw ourkrl ;> %''°'" ^°'' ''>''■
wl'icl. is here about cFr "^' '" ""= '^^e.
This day the f^Z c^utt d" th" 'rf
which were very low, feemed'V.. r " '^'°"''''''

igh mountains: nea'r he 1 1'° '"[["""^ '"'=-"1
from many mountains the fnt T ' ^"^ ' ^""^
of a charcoal-kiln. Now and^th? "' r^' '"'"°'^'=
river which fell into Xe 1 r' '^^ "'''''«
hind the high mountain, ; V ''^ ''°"""-y ^«-
'hc lake, if, a?! am ;m" '' "'='^'=^" '^^^ of
n>iles together with T .,1 foreT"', '"r ^a'"^"^'
many rivers and brook. Zih.'l"^"'^'^'"^ ''/

'^k=;. and very iit to bc'i hj fed "%)" 'o""^"
are fomet ines ro-kv =„a r ■ ^ ''chores
Towards ni,.ht the m„n , ""''r^' ^'"'^^ here,
ally, the Jake ifv^X"' "^ecreafed gradu-
neuher rocks nor ihloZt it T! "'"'^^f ^
Ihe wind abated anrf «,» u ''""^ ^' ""~''"
^ore a„, ,^,,,,^; -'I, -^anchored do/e to Vh.

'firt-rj'- T^hT^r:"'"! -^--eeded with

;."'«. was abol'^haf/:;:;; - ;- '-f -^ '^

fie djftance of that nl^^^ <• - '^^ ^^^^^' ^«r

-0^. iake c/j;;;i 7s^t™ t';;f\^'-f-.

M= /rm/; miles % ,ho, i., !P"''f '" I'' ^"y-

' ■•■"' '"^^ " l>tre about lix

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''July 1749.

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EngliJJj miles in breadth. The mountains were
n6w out of fight, and the country low, plain,
and covered with trees. The (hores were landy,
and the lake appeared novy from four to fix
miles broad. It was really broader, but the
illands made it appear narrower.

We often faw Indians in bark-boats clofe to
the fhore, which was however not inhabited >
for the Indians came here only to catch fturgeons,
wherewith this lake abounds, and which we
often faw leaping up in the air. Thefe Indians
lead a very fingular life: Atone time of the year
they live upon the fmall ftore of maize, beans,
and melons, which they have planted ; during
another period, or about this time their food is
fiih, without bread or any other meat; and an-
other feafon they eat nothing but flags, roes,
beavers, 6cc,. which they (hoot in the woods, and
rivers. They, however, enjoy long life, perfcvit
health, and are more able to undergo hardfliips
than other people. They fing and dance, are
joyful, and always content; and would not, for
a great deal, exchange their manner of life for
that which is preferred in Europe,

When we were yet ten French miles from
fort St. 'John, we faw fome houfes on the weftern
fide of the lake, in which the French had lived
before the lafl: war, and v/hich they then aban-
doned, as it was by no means fafc : they now
returned to them again. Thefe were the firft
houfes and fettlements which we faw after wc
had left thofe about fort St, Frederic^

There forn-trly was a wooden fort, or re-
doubt on the eailern fide of the lake, near the

water-

.! 1

Lake CJmmplaia. ^ j

incu^fions of rk^i^ ^ll^"^^"^ J-
was afTured that m^r, r? V " i^i^e -, and I

in there pUce/ A tL^""'''^''^''' ''?'^ ''^'=" "^''^
that the? reckon fo " ""'" '^'y '^'^ me.

The yacht which we went in to 9. -/./
was the firft that was hniU ul ? J°'"^^

on lake r/,.JJ • r ." ^^^^' ^"^^ employed

0 iitvffoTr '^'//"''"-'•')' 'h^y made ,(•
or ^tf^('«,.« to fend provifions over the lake Tl„.

captain of the yacht was u FrenchnJ.V
this country; he had huilt h anT '■ •'"

foundings of the lake, in orde; to fi„ '" 'T
m.e road between fort'^.! ylTand £J "'y
'i''7. Oppofite the wind-mil! the lakl i f
three fathoms deeo hn, \l * ^"""^

more ftallow the '^Wrer i ^'""' '"°'''= "-"^
>//«. nearer,,. ir^comes to fort St.

We now perceived houfes on the fhore aaai,,
ine captain had otfer.^j^,•^s j„ ,i,^ , ■*?'."•
were n,'rf.^>l„ .!,. /' I 'i" '" .''^« '^'^'"^'". wnich

were perfectly the fame, in colour and

V

Ipecicf,
with

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214 July 1749.

with the European ones. Otters arc faid to be
very abundant in Canada,

Seal-Jkins are here made ufe of to cover boxes
and trunks, and they often make portmantles of
them in Canada. The common people bad
their tobacco-pouches made of the fame fkins.
The feals here are entirely the fame with the
Swedlfl or European one, which are grey with
black fpots. They are faid to be plentiful in
the mouth of the river St. Laurence, below
^lebec^ and go up that river as far as its water
is fait. They have not been found in any of
the great lakes of Canada, The French call
them Loups marlns^.

The French^ in their colonies, fpend much
more time in prayer and external worflup, than
the Engltjh and Dutch fet tiers in the Britijh cor-
]onies. The latter have neither morning nor
evening prayer in their fliips and yachts, and no
difFLTcncG is made between Sunday and other
days. They never, or very feldom, fay grace
at dinner. On the contrary, the French here
have prayers every morning and night on board
their fliipping, and on Sundays they pray more
than commonly : they regularly fay grace at
their meals ; nnd every one of them fays prayers
in private as foon as he gets up. At Fort St.
Frederic all the foldiers allembled together for
morning and evening prayers. The only fault
was, that mofl of the prayers v/ere read in La-
tin, which a great part of the people do not un^
d^^fftand. Below the abovementioned wind-

♦ Sea Wolves,

mill

Lake Champlmn.

215
miH, the breadth oFfli.- loir« • i_

(hot, and it loot more L " '''°"u' '""'^"-
T-k^ '"w«^a more like a river than q 1.j^«

The country on both fides is low and 1! ;
covered with woods. We faw ^ffi ^ ' f"*
Mattered cottages alone Vhe ('hT u '^ ^^'='^
further, the co1,ntr7hihabhed w^^"' .'-''"^^
option. The lake^is here K fix",o Te 'T"
deep, and forms feveral iflandl A V

whole courfe of this vovLe th. V. ""^ *''^
lake was alwavs Hir.,^^^ % ''n'""°" "^ 'he
N. N. E. ^ '''^'^ ^'°°^ S. S. W. to

In )ome parts of Canada are ereat tr..^, c
land be one ne- to fin»l- ,- ^ } "^""^ °f

wide are allotted ZI flc''l '°"S' ^"^^ f°"r

intends toSf hSe '^t'^f':''.r^1'"°'^"" "''''
is eftablifhed heirnhl" i ^' '"' ''""l^o'd

'i:^« t Jo fTkjj^i:; "''''''" " -^ ^--

FoniJ^/r'ot.i'^'^J^'""-/"' "= ^"i-d at
calm, all the afternoo'n. ""'^""=' """'^' ^^^

the^t'lilf I; SIV" '^r- ^ -'^■^'>

of the mouth of lalfe'^r/,.^ "'f !-^" *^^«
water.fide It wL nt f ^''''"^^''«' <^'o'^ to the
iiuc. lu was intended to cover fh^ ^^ .

round about it, which they were 'hen .-""^
people, and ,0 ferve as a rr.Ll ,V. !" S°'ng to

-^ ammunition, wich" weTe-^^Vir/Cfr

* Montreal

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Montreal to Fort .S/. Frederic, becaufe they
may go in yachts from hence to the laft menti-
oned piaccj, which is impoflable lovyer down, as
libaut two gun-ft)Qt further, there is a (hallow
full of flones, and very rapid wateriri the river,
over yvhiphithey cap only pafs in bateat^x, or fiat
vefTels. Formerly Fort Chamblan^ which lies
four French miles lower, was the magazine of
provifion^ ; |)ut as they were forced firft to fend
them hithjer \n l^ateaux, and then from hence
in yachts, and the road to Fort Chamhlan from
Montreal being by land, and q^uch round about,
this fort was eret!ted. Jt has a low (ituation,
and lies in a fandy foij, and the CQuntry about
it is li^cewife low, flat, and covered with woods.
The fort is quadrangular, and includes the fpace
of one arpent fquarc. In each of the two cor-
ners which look towards the lake is a wooden
building, four (lories high, the lower part of
which is of flone to the height of abqut a fathom
and a half. In thefe buildings which are poly-
angular, are holes for cannon and lelTer fire-
arms. In each of the two other corners towards
the country, is only a little wooden houfe, two
(lories high, /ifheje buildings are intended for
the hahit^tipns pf the foldiers, and for the better
defence of the place; between thefe houfes
there ^re poles, two fathoms and a half high,
(harpned at the top, and driven into the ground
c'ofe to one another. They are made of the
Thuya tree, which is here reckoned the bell:
wood for keeping froo^ petrifadtion, and is much
preferable to fir in that point. Lo ver down
iiiS paliiaucs were doubic, one row vvituin Uii

other.

Ml

Fort St. John. ^

If I in height, rr;; ; t s: 5:^ r

a I along ,be palifade.. with a bll °f,f * ^°"

pofed to thefr ^rt!' 1^^111'%^ ^^^ r
hundred men were in garifon he^re 'buX ^
lime there were only a governor o .„ V^'*

and brother-in-law to Mr FT ^f""««^".
nor of Fort St. FreJerl:' T^"""' '^l ^over-

fe fort, on ^otlffit'beltf ^l.^tj
has a very ^ood foil- h^^t i^ • /fn *^" ^"^

habitantsf t'h ough it' is taked^Jh"* •'"'"' '"-
getfome as foon as poffiMe ' "''' " ^""'"^

The Fr^-^./i i„ ail C^w^^^ call ,he pn«c
A&v.;,^.m. which name, it is (J T. I
borrowed from the Indians Thlr ^^pj"^"^

in fuch prodigious num w'jn Ih. 'f^' "'*
Fort^/. 7<,^„ that ;^ ?1 I?,. '''°°'*"'°"nd
died Foft ;;i?;;42r'%^,^ -ore properly

i» other place": ' '' '^'^^ '^^^^ '^°'-'<=

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'July 1749.

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The Rattle Sjtake, according to the unani-
mous accounts of the French, is never feen ia
this neghbourhoo<^, nor further north near
Montreal AX\6 ^ebec \ and the mountains which
furround Fort St. Frederic, are che mofl: northerly
part on this fide, where they have been feen.
Of all the fiiakes which are found in Canada to
the north of thefe mountains, none is poifonous
enough to do any great harm to a man ; and all
without exception run away when ihey fee a
man. My remarks on the nature and properties
of the raitle-fiiake, I have communicated to the
royal Swedifi academy of feiences*, and thither
I refer mv readers.

July 2 2d. This evening fome people arrived
with horfes from Prairie, in order to fetch us.
The governor had fent for them at my defire,
becaule there were not yet any horfes near Fort
St. John, the place being only a year old, and
the people hid not had time to fettle near it.
Thofe who led the horfes, brought letters to
the governor from the governor-general of Ca-
nada, the Marquis la GaUffoniere, dated at ^^-
bec the fifteenth of this month, and from the
vice-governor of Montreal, the Baron de Lon-
gueil, dated the twenty-firft of the fame month.
They mentioned that I had been particularly
recommended by the French court, and that the
governor (l]»Quld fupply me wiih every thing I
wanted, and forward my journey ; and at the
fame time the governor received two little cafks
of wine for me, which they thought would

See their Memoirs for the year 1752.

relieve

e unani-
:r feen ia
rth near
ns which
northerly
sen feen.
"Canada to
poifonous
; and all
hey fee a
properties
:ed to the
»d thither

>]e arrived
fetch us.
rjy defire,
near Fort
old, and
le near it.
letters to
ral of Ca-
id at ^^-
from the
[1 de Lon-
ne month,
irticularly
d that the
ry thing I
nd at the
little cafks
:ht would

Fori St, John.
relieve me on my Journev A. • l
the kings of France InP^ j\ ""'^^^ ^« ^'^^^

afalute'fromThe cannon 7^^^ '^'^^'^' ""^^^
health of the govcm^^^^^^^ and the

July 27d ^^'^'"""'-^^"^^^i and others.
j«y -630. i HIS morn np- wf* r^*
journey to Prairie, from wK j! ' ?.°"'
proceed ,0 Montr.a/; ,he d"ft! '"^^"'^"^'^ '°
Irom fort St. >/,/ b„ l„H '" °^ ^'•'^'"'
F/-.«r/; miles, and from M,' " ''"'^°"^d &=
i>«.^ (league ) and a hTif h"". '° ^'"'''•'■''' '^°

wc had on our right'^'.h "I/''' '^'T' '" «•>«
(St. 7«/«'s river.) ^ This is r""' "^^ *' >^'«
mouth of the hki r/, I., ■ """'^ °f the

*e river St wL^Tft T'"' '^"^' '■"•"
we had tra v.llJZJttT" "''"'■-> ^ f'"

was always low. woody, and nre'-.v T"''^

f w«. in the midft of Lm^,?^ f ' i''°"S'^
fo^nd it difficult to get forwaTdR '■'''" ^=
obferved that fort St -^Z ^T " " '° •"=

'^»mer. when his r^ad „ %°^'^ ""•"' *'^
-%-„y it could: ;r hale r'^-' !."''
.'oper degree of folidity. ^Twr, h TY"^ '^
iwty men were thrpf J .u ""ndred and

i"g .his roadT for whkh J' "' "°'''' '" "^k-
«pence of the govTrnmenr ^^ J""" u^'"^ ^' "'«=
"'«y (bis every dav Tn7 ' '"'^ ^''^ ««'"^ed
-I'i ^gain /efi' £ loTk ^t "" ''=^

«i«. which vme vervM n'r""' °^ g"«' «"d.
I we h,d — - . y troublefome to ns. A r,„

I - ■■■•<i p-= aoout three f r.«./; „,ijes, "^^ «me

out

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"July 1749.

out of the woods, and the ground feemed to
hvi^ been formerly a marOi, which was now
dried up. From hence we had a pretty good
profpedon all fides. On our right hand at a
great dirtance we faw two high mountains,
rifing remarkably above the reft ; and they were
not tar from fort Champlam. We could like-
wife from hence fee the high mountain which
lies near Montreal -, and our road went on near-
ly in a ftraight line. Soon after, we got again
upon wet and low grounds, and after that into
a wood which confilled chiefly of the fir with
leaves which have a filvery underfide *. We
found the foil which we paffed over to day, very
fine and rich, and when the woods are cleared
and the ground cultivated, it will probably
prove very fertile. There are no rocks, and
hardly any flones near the road.

About four French miles from fort St. Johriy
the country makes quite another appearance. It
is all cultivated, and a continual variety of fields
with excellent wheat, peafe, and oats, prefented
itfelf to our viewi but we faw no other kinds
of corn. The farms flood fcattered, and each
of them was furrounded by its corn fields, and
meadows ; the houfes are built of wood and very
fmall. Inftead of mofs, which cannot be got
her£, they employ clay for flopping up the cre-
vices in the walls. The roofs are m?de very
much floping, and covered with flraw. The
foil is good, flat, and divided by feveral rivu-
lets; and only in a few places there are fome

Abies foliis/iibtus argenteis*

little

Fort Sf.

feemed to
was now
retty good
hand at a
mountains,
they were
rould like-
itain which
nt on near-
got again
jr that into
ihe fir with
de *\ We
3 day, very
are cleared
1 probably
•Qcks, and

rt St. Jo/w,
Jarance. It

yo/m to Prairie.

221

P?of t Z^\T/^V^ -7 ^- f- this

country, a -^cSv J^/ ^ -f ^e the
covered with corn. an/,u' '"^''eWs were
mer-wheat here t\: o ^ !'"'""y '^^= «"""
'i'e. fo that .her; is ^o oS„ f '','" "I"^ ^'='-
ly as fallow. The foreft, t °'' '""'"? " '<>

lime, when wood will K. """ ''« ^

Such was the appearance of th?™' ''■"^ ^"^"•
to/r«V;i.. and'^lhe river St A ''^ 'I""' "J^
M we had now always i^filt '^7""'' ^'"'^h
liiis country was in m?, ^ ^ ^nd. m a word.

About din;^er^time we Ir '."^ '■'^'="-
which is fuuated onTliH, r""'^ " ^''"''■'''
'he river St. La Jell w! 2'^"/:^^°""^ "-«
becaufe I intended ^o vSit fh \"' '^'" '^'y-
neighbourhood, before I vven o„ '' ''" '^'"

Pratrie de la Magdelene is a fm,Il ■>,
'he eaftern fide of the river St / ""'8« O"
two French miles and a h. V f 'T' ^^°«
which place lies N W fro I""* ^"«''-^'^'''
o'her fiie of .he riv;r aJ ° h ^'""' °" ^'''^
^mWV is quite flat In/h [ f°"'"'3' round
On oil fide.^a e larS corn ^\Y'^^' ^"^ "''^''g''-
P;ft"res. On tK^'^S:' "bf ""■ l'^
i-JWTO^^ pafTes bv and K u '"'" St.

W^ mile and 7 'ha^ ,f ''"'"'^ ' ''^<=*'^'h of a

I^fing wooden IfslSlu °' "■'"''^^' -"h
'«"s are ftopned „n T x. t ^'■^^'^« '" the
'"•"e little b?.^?„ "^of f ''^'\. '^^'^^ "«

which

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222

'July 1749.

V ii r

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which latter the enchafement of the doors and
windows was made of the black liinc-ftonc. In
the midfl: of the vilbge is a pretty church of
flone, with a ftecple at the weft end of it, fur-
nifhed with bells. Before the door is a crofs,
together with ladders, tongs, hammers, nails,
5cc. which are to rtprefent all the inflrumcnts
made ufe of at the crucifixion of our Saviour,
and perhaps many others befides them. The
village is furrounded with palifades, from four
yards to five high, put up tormerly as a barrier
againft the incurfions of the Indians, Without
thcfe pali/ades are feveral little kitchen and pjea-
furc gardens, but very few fruit-trees in them.
The rifing-grounds along the river are very in-
confiderabie here. In this place there was a
prieft, and a caj)tain, who aiiumed the name of
governor. The corn-fields round the place are
cxtenfive, and fovvn with fummcr-wheat ; but
rye, barley and maize are never feen. To the
fouth-wcfl of this place is a great fall in the
river St. Laivrence, and the noife which it
caufes, may be plainly heard here. When the
water in fpring encreafes in the river, on ac-
count of the ice which then begins to dilToIve,
it fometirr)i:s happens to rife fo high as to over-
flow a ^reat part of tin , fields, and, inftead of
fertilizing them as the river Nik fertilizes the
Egyptian fields by its inundations, it does them
much damage, by carryin;^ a number of graiTes
and plants on them, the ieeds of which fpread
the worft kind of weed?, and ruin the fields.
Thcfe inundations oblige the people to take
their cattle a great way olT, becaufe the water

covers

Pniirlc.

floors and
ftonc. In
hurch of
)f it, fur-
s a crofs,
ers, nails,
flrumcnts
r Saviour,
m. The
from four
a barrier
Without
and plea-
in ihctn.
; very in-
:re was a
t name of
place are
beat ; but
To the
ill in the
which it
^Vhen the
:r, on ac-
o dllTolve,
s to over-
inftead of
tilizes the
does them
of grafles
ich fpread
the fields.
5 to take
the water
covers

223

covers a great traaofland, but h.nn'l •

^ays on It above two or thr.. ^ ^^'^^ '^ "^^^r

fomewhat below Prairie ' "'"''' '^"^^'^

July 2 I th T

Prair,e in ^ bateau !o i^J^'^f ^ ^«"t from
St. Lawrence. The r\f.° "'' "P°" '^^ f'^er
^erv deep near Pr^U fo T'l^P''^' "^"' n°t
go higher than Monrlal 1^' '^- "'f '^' """°'
Je high water. Zf aZ^n" J^''"' "'"'''
/•wr/^, but no further tL , °™= "P «"

'"»• On our arrival there we i ', ""'^ ''"""
Prople at that gate of th/! ""'"^ =* ^'•"^vd of

<o pars through^ Thevwe°''"' !r''"'= ■'■'^' »'"'-■
i"g us. becatfe thev w^!'' "7 '^^'■™"' «f f^e-
&.-/a were to come^to , ' '"'"""^'' "i^t 'on.e
*ey had heard fo^;b'^^,7"^P-P'<= of whom
"ever feen, and weare ^LSk '^''°'" '^'y ^^^
-<= were the fir/1 W.' tW ^ """''^ ''"'^>'' "'^^
f '/. As foon as we we c la, /./'' u""' '" ^^'"-
•l-e town font a caoiain ^I ' I ' '''^ governor of

, '*w him to the7,ve^no7;ho^°r''='r'^ ^^^"■'1
"•"duced me to him T^! P '^' "'^'''' '^« '»-

»« yet vice-governo;, bu he'-i^I ^""^'""'^ ""''
promotion from FraJ, r- '^"'^ '^^P^'^cd his
civilly and genercTX .S r' ''"'"^^ "'•« m°>-e

h="t.oned that he had .-f ^''¥<'«^n., wliid,
I "i-Pv -.c wuh wharevcr I

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224 . "July 1749-

flioiild want, as I was to travel in this country
at the expcncc of his moft Chriftian majcfty.
In ihort governor Longueiiil loaded inc with
greater favours than I could expe(1: or even
imagine, both during my prefcnl Hay and on
my return from, ^ebec.

The difFtrrcnce between the manners and
cuftoms of the French in Montreal and Canada,
and thofe of the Englijh in the American colo-
nics, is as great as that between the manners of
thofe two nations in Europe, The women in
general are handfnme here ; they are well bred,
and virtuous, with an innocent 'and becoming
freedom. They drefs out very fine on Sundays j
and though on the other days they do not take
much pains with other parts of their drefs, yet
they are very fond of adorning their heads, the
hair of which is always curled and powdered,
and ornatiiented with glittering bodkins and
aigrettes. Every day but Sunday, they wear a
little neat jacket, and a fliort petticoat which
hardly reaches half the leg, and in this parti-
cular they feem to imitate the Indian women.
The heels' of their (lioes arc high, and very
narrow, and" it' is furprizing how they walk
on thenrr. In* i^eir knowledge of cfeconomy,
they greatly furpiifs the E;»7^'-///^i' v^brilen in the
plantations^ Who indeed hdiit taken the liberty
^f thiowing aH the burthen of hbufe-keeping
upon their hufbands, and fit in their chairs all
day with folded arms *. The women in Candu

on

li

* It feems, that for the fiitur?, the fair fex in x\\t Englijh c(i\^-
nies ill jSonb-dnu.-.a, will no longer defcrvc the reproaches Mr,

! .1

^romPratrk to Montreal. „

alway, in fhe bA^^jr^^'' i^^^'^ 'hej are
do not din.ke any wo^k Sr,:' '^''"*^' ^^ »"d

ing of the utenfils nnH IJ^ ^^ ^^^ <^^<^an*
"-« .he floor.. b'oth„?he"r„"' '^ '°'»'"
were hardly cleaned once nfil 1 ?". '°""''^'
« a difagreeable fight to one wh ''''' *'"'^''
amongrt the£)«/^A„H p°"* "'''° "mes *■«"»

ftant fcouring a^J fcruf^f '^^^ ,^''"= '^e con-
reckoned as importan as^hf "^ v' ^°°«' '«
i'fclf- To preven the t Tl^f °^ "^'S'on
'hus left on .L floor W h^ '*""' '^^'"^ "
health, the women wetTr'"^""^'""' '° 'he

which renders hmo7cVnJa"'^ ''■"" * ^^y.
afperfion as often a/.rfr * ;'P"''"g 'he

•gain. Upon he whole £ " '''^ T"^''
not averfe io the takW , ''".'^"er, they are

ofhoufekeeping. and! h'"" '"^*" "'' ''"^"''"»
'he daughters 'f'th"e'b«trfoT;V"''r '^^^
of ihe governor himfelf nL . I ff°P'^> ='"'»

and going into kitcSn and ir° "''^. '^'''^^'^'
"ery thing be done as ft olhf "* '° '°°^ ">«'

baStre^e^y'Sr"' f""^ '^''-''->

-^o.dLvSt:sr;;i„--t;^^

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226 y^^y ^749-

1 HAVE been told by fome among xhtFrend,
^;^ho had goijc a. beaver-hunting with the irz-
Jians to the northern pirts of Canada, that the
animals whofe Ikins they endeavour to get, and
vrhich arc there in gfcat plenty* are beaver*,
wild-oats* or lyn^xes, and martens. Thefe ani-
mals are the more valued, the htlhtt they are
caught to the north, for their ikins have better
hair, and look better than thofe which are taken
more fouthward, and they became gradu^ally bet-
ter or worfe, the more they arc northward or
fouthward. ..(h r h's - ; v

White Partridges * 18 the name v^hich the
Trench in Canada give to a kind of birds,
abounding during winter near Hudfins Bay, and
which are undoubtedly our Ptarmigansy or Snow-
hens^ (letraoLagofus). They arc very plentiful at
the time of a great froft, and when acorifiderable
quantity of fnow happens to falk They are
defcribid to me as having rough white feet, and
being white all over, except three or four black
featheps in the tail j and they are reckoned very
fine eating. From Edwards Natural Hiftory
of Birds (pag. 72.) it appears, that the ptarmi-
gans are common about Mud/on s Bay f .
"" Hdres are likewife faid to be plentiful near
Hudjbn's Bay, and they are abundant even m
Canada, where 1 haveoften feen, and found them
perfedly correfpondiftg with our Snvedijh hares.
In fummer they have a brownifli grey, and in
winter a fnowy white colour, as with us *.

• Perdrix blanchesf.

t See Bk. Zool. SoppK pbte XIII. f. 1. F.

ft,./.pUteXLVII.f.i. F. MeCHA-

ward here asthev 1 1^, ^'i """" "°' 3«:t fo for-

"'ho have n^t 'h!^ • '*'' """« '° <>=»'* here.

*i"y. and through n ^^'^ ^t™"'"'«^<'"dc«-

•ion of mechanlT L^V''''° ''*"*' " ^ooA no-
made verrSod clol T' ^f^"" ''"« ^^o

burbe>„?bfe;vcdif»J°'""'°" houfe-flies have
rfred and Sty > f, "alo' ^^l" K^ '"'^' """^ ''"»-

opinio. thr^hfVoiniref);':! ""'^ "^ "^
here with the Pf.^ ^»nmon «ies ftrft came over

-ere C J S "E^aft ' ft^''' '^'^'"^'^
this J however I u! u" ',^*" ''°' *'Pute
defarts beTween ?! T' ''''"!'''"« » was in the

retrr^i-'iriTtr^v?^'-'^-^

they have not been 1. !'^ 1"'"*'"*' *'''«''«
oeen imported from &rd^A^p,;;.On the mk!

tt'dS^iVhS'^-f^A^!^^

Kt in a good coSui „"\„t:hlr,hf I 7^
lften_ travelled there a;d bacrL",;!.''.^ f^^
"icnnan that fpw^r^i r> '.-pr="> ""*■ ^o

that feveral Europeans, bmhTefa

Q^

TC and

after

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228

"July i749<

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w^

after that time, had travelled through thofe
places, and carried the flies with them, which
were attrafted by their provifions.

Wild Cattle are abundant in the fouthern parts
of Canada, and have been there fince times im-
memorial. They are plentiful in thofe parts,
particularly where the Illinois Indians live, which
are nearly in the fame latitude with Philadelphia;
but further to the north they are feldom ob-
ferved. I faw the fkin of a wild ox to-day j it
was as big as one of the largeft ox hides in Eu-
rope, but had better hair. The hair is dark
brown, like that on a brown bear-fkin. That
which is clofe to the fkin is as foft as wool.
This hide was not very thick ; and in general
they do not reckon them fo valuable as bear-fkins
in France. In winter they are fpread on the
floors, to keep the feet warm. Some of thefe
wild cattle, as I am told, have a long and fine
wool, as good, if not better, than fheep wool.
They make ftockings, cloth, gloves, and other
pieces of worded work of it, which look as well
as if they were made of the heft (heep wool j
and the 7W/««J employ it for feveral ufes. The

flc(h equals the beft beef in goodnefs and fatnefs.
Sometimes the hides arc thick, and may be made
ufe of as cow-hides are in Europe, The wild
cattle in general are faid to be llronger and big-
ger than European cattle, and of a brown red
colour. Their horns are but (hort, though very
thick clofe to the head. Thefe, and feveral
other qualties, which they have in common with,
and in greater perfeftion than the tame cattle,
Un^,M> inAttn^A fnmi* to eideavour to tame themj

byi

ii

MontrcL^l

229

by whicli means thev would n^»,.v .u ,
tages arifing from theCooleftof L' '^;'"-
account of their great ftrVn I u ."■' ^"<^' <"»
ploy them fuccefsfX n^ • ^' "'''' '° «'"-
this'view fome h ve Le,, 'f"^'''"'^«- With
calves, and bro.gthr^^^&LTnK''*

S:;^?dr"^trero^f^^^-^"y-^^^

though they have r'n '/?' y"" "'"'^ ^ ''"d

about; fo hTt the .?^ '/"''''""'''<=''' "r run

hicher'to been found "L"*^ T'^"^^" ^»^ "«
opinion, that the" catt ' cat*^: l'"^ ^^° °f
cold; as they never so north n??f, f ''"" "^«
tioned, though thefnm^ i^^ P'ace Imcn-

in thofe nor»Crn pam "tI .K-'f^ t^°'' "^«
the country about he S ^. "'."'\''^«. *hen

pled, it will he mL'taf/t um^ ther P?"
and that afterwards thev milh? ^^ ?*"'*'•
uftd to the northerly cSaTef* ""^Lf 5'- '"
and ii'r.^^/, {„ cw« make ufe \(lrJ'"^''"'i
there creature to put ^S^:\^ "^^ "^
iHE peace which was rr.r,,^i.,^ :^ vrv^A

f-«.. an'd iVW waV proSed ^h^*'!,""
The foldiers were und^r P'^°''"'"'«'J this day.

the walls was fi ed oft 7nd"fom> tT""^^^ °"
£-worksweree.hibited.'::k.i^":;£Sw:

f '.:i5dt"e\e^ire ovTr r!' 'f "," '""P-'-'X "hid. In
0/ tamed animal, de<rer. °al. f *1 '?.""' "« = ! >» »" 'he pro«„!„
'w Mceilofs. f . ° • ""'" "'= e^ceiicnce of theirwifd and

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was illummated. A^ the ftreees Wei-e di^Wtl^d
with people till late ht night. The gbverrior
invited me to fupper, and to partake c^flhejoy
of the inhabitants. There were prefeht a num-
ber of officers, and perfons of diftinCtion 5 and
the feftival concluded Mth the greateft joy,

y^;^ 28tfi; This morriing I acrompariied
^he gbvfetitor, biiroh Longuem/, and his family,
to a' little 'Mftd called Mag^eIene,\'Mch is his
own propet-ty. It lies in the river Sf. Lanvrmcei
diredlty'o^pofite to the'tbVvri, on the eaftern fide.
The governor h'ad'hcire a very neat houfe, thoogh
it wk's riot very large; -a Hhe extenfive garden,
and a coiirt-yard. The river paffes betv^een the
town arid this i!land, and is very rapid. ISIear
ihe town it is diep eriotrgh for yachts 5 but to-
wards" the lilahd it grows niore {hallow, fo that
they' arc 'obliged to p'^fh the boats forwards with
poles. There was amrllon the ifland, turned
•by the itllere force of tlie ^eam, without 'an ad-
ditiiin^r n^ill-dam.

TrtE fhtooth famaeh, or Rhus glabr*a, grows
in ^Ytit plenty here.- 1 have no where feen it
io tali ^s in this pla(5fe,''ivhere it had fometimes
the height of eight Virds, atid a proportionable
thicknefs. <-^*\"ci--'-"V

Saff^as ^s planletf tiet-e ; for it is never foDnd
Wildinthefe parts, fort ^^/z;?^ being the moft
norriierly place where I have found it wild.
Thofe fhrubs which were on the ifland had
been planted many years ago ; however, they
were but fmall fhrubs, from two to three feet
high, and fcarce fo much. The reafon is, be*
the ftem is killed every winter, alrnoft

cauie

every

down

Montreal.

231

&t:^; Sn^ Jt-»? P-duc. new

rafras in a very coTd Se!"*="'" "^ ^' "^

The red Mulberry-trees (MarajraWi/W ^
are l.kew.fe pianterf here. \ faw four o;£ve of
hem about- five yards hfgh. which rbe governor
told me had been twenty years in this illTlll
were j,r.ught from ^L fouther y Jfrts fince
.hey do not gro«r wild near Monleal The
moft northerly place, where I have found it
growing fpontaneouily, is about twILTl^'
m.>es north oi Albany, as I have beenfflS
by the country people who live in that nlace
and wheat the fame time informed me tWiJ
was very fcarce in th^ woods. When I came t^
Saratoga. I enquired whether any of "hefe mtf
berry-trees had been found in .Lt neighbouT
hood .? but every body told me, that thfv were

^Z- A ? "'"'^ V^'^'' •'"t fhat tf,e &efore-
menfoned place, twenty miles above ^/Z^t
the moft northern one where theygrow^Thofe
mu berry.„ees. which were pifnted on th[
■land, fucceed very well, thougfi they are olaced
in a poor foil. Their foliage is lari^e ^ ?!• t
^t they did not bear a^yfrffhi^ 'J2'

^°Tr\} T'' '"^^^^'^ '^^^ ti^ey can bear i
confiderablc degree pf cold.

plaI"Lf f '^'"'^ ^^' P''""^'' l''^''^''" » fl»dy
place, and was grown to a great height. All

Q>f the

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'232

>b 1749-

I': I

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iJiiiiq

the Trench hereabouts call it Cotonier *. It la
never found wild near the river 6"^. Livwrence\
nor north of fort; 5/« Frederic^ where it is now
veryfcarce, -^nol ^ci'n',)riuni rjviaJ '5"*/ t.f/;i;}-
-The red cedar is palled Cedre rouge by the
French, and it was likewife planted in the go-
vernor's garden , wheth er it had been brought
from wore fouthern parts, for it ia not to be met
with in the forefts Hereabouts. However, it
came on very well here^ H\y..vm '^m ifc'

About half an hour, after feven in the even-
ing we left this pleafant ifland, and an hour after
our return the baron de Longueuil received two
agreeable pieces of news at once. The firft was,
that his Ton J who had been two years in Frjw^^,
was returned ; and the fecond, that he had
brought with hi ni the royal patents for his fa-
ther, by which he wa? appointed governor of
Montreal, and the country belonging to it.

They make ufe of fans here, which are
made cf the tails of the wild turkeys. As fooa
as the birds are ihot^ their tails are fpread like
fans, and dried, by which means they keep their
figure. The ladies and the men of diftindion
in town wear thefe fans, when they walk in the
flrects, during the intenfenefs of the heat.

All the grafs on the meadows round Mon*
treal conCiih chiefly of a fpccies of Meadow-grafs,
or the Poa capillaris, Linn* -f*. This is a very llcn-

• Cotton-tree, Mr. Kalm mentions before^ that thiss name w given

to the J/cIepias Syriaca. F.

f Mr. Ka!m *Itrcribes it thus : Poa culmo /nhcomprejlo panicuk it'
•nyij/ima, /j[>i(uUt irijloris minimis, f of culh htt/t ^^nhjcentibus%

dcr

Montreal

'33

about the town Th! ^'"'' "'^''S the rivulets
fn>it. that .hrbouIhsLTr" t* 'O'-J'd with
wards by the weight Th7 ?"'•'''""' '^^^"-

has a red colour and a fine taft- fnf r"' "
are fometimes made of ;»'■•" ?J^ prefetves

nf« at thi, time. xLy a^Ae 'iSTanr'"'
by Jr fo agreeable as thofe in ZS' '- ."^'

o'her places ThA"^^^^^"^^^^^^^^^
wereongmal natives 6f ^«J,vL TA'^*' '^^y
brought over by the EuZT„T' fifr- ^'"^ "

f-it.iughrsi;?Ss£ s'r"
Shirxi^-s«'#^*^S:

Ivan yf»,.J; , *^^^' ^"^^5 Jior^bnVmal.

I4gthe£^ra,i^^--n.«^^^^

f»?«S/» I ft. The Mvernor-jren^roi ^e ^

I W. commonly refide! at Ssf^^tl t ?.T

|.-u/goesto Mmna/. and generally 7;;nd;

the

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224 ^ttguji 1749'

the winter there^ In fumtner they chiefly re^
fide at SluekCi on accoun,t of the king's fiiip§,
which arrive there (during that feafon, aad bring
bim letters, whicfh he mw^ft anfwer; hcfidss
other buiinefs which conie^, in about that tii^ic.
During his refidence in Montreal he lives in \\^^
caftle, as. it is caHed, which, is a large houfe of
A©ne, built by governor-gep^ral /^i«Wr^w/i4 aq^d
fliU belonging to his family, \^ho hire it^o tlie

klJJg» r/;>'iffiHa«.e'lfi^e^/ :. , ' •

l^n^Y h?^vz m Canada fcarce any other bi^t

',paper-^currcDcy. ^ iiardly ever faw any coin,
except French Sols,, confiilingof hj^afs,. wijh,a
very fmall mixture of fijver f they were qo^ite

, thin by c^nftant circulation, .,and wckc valued at
a fQland^|KaJ;f.; The. bijjlarenpt printed, but
Wfiuen. TT^ir f i;igin is.^a? jfolloyv^, Jl^e^jFr^^^
king having fpundit very d^ngeroustofenrf^poqy
for the pay o£tbe.troops,.^nd Qtber pi^rpoieSj^over
to Canada, on accqviut of privateers, fhipwreck?,

,an4 olhfir.accide^s.j, he orderpd thatinft£adqf|

4t .the Jntepdaqt,. pr kir\g'ii ftewaid, 2it ^ekc,

.Qr the C9^mlffary^at4%z^w4'^o^^ write. bills
for the .v4ue 1)f.> the^iip^ ^(lich arpdue .to ,tV|

. troops, , apd wl^imi |h^y ^i%ibate to each fql-
dier. On.thefp bilk is in^ciibed,, that they bqr
tl^e valuje c»f ^^9h,pr,,fifc{i:a fMm, iiil next 0^4-
hr-p apd ,tjbpy,jfre:%ned{by,tbeintendant, pr

^he comoiiii^ryj ,^nd in the .imerval they ten
the value ofnnLoriey, In .the month oi OMer\
at a certain llatcd time, every one brings, the
bills in his poffeffion to the intendant at ^.%,
or the comroiflary at Montreal y who exchangssj
them for bills of exchange upon Frarue, whiclij

aTei

" iMontreat,

'35

ittpm <hett in hwful money, «i the kihrt

I kept U]l acxt 'Oao6,r, when ft may be ex!

cnanged by o«e ef tbofe geniletten. for a Wl|

fon France. The paper money cU onhr be

UM in 0»6^.r; and exchanged for ^i,u

Lpon France. They are of difFe.,„f values. ,„d

SilUer' '^o'^';'^'"'' '"''^ perhaps Vome
ire it'lllels. Towards autumn, when f he meri

tots A.ps com* infrom France, the merch^n U
emJeavour to g^t «s mSfty bills as they can and

rhefebjlls arepartly printed, fpaces being kft
\k the name. fum. &c. But Ihe firft bil! Z
l^per currency is all wrote, and is thereforj

« jea to be cmmterfeited, which has foSm«^

E tfn iiS' g-t puniflimeat.. wS

ave been mfli<fted upon the avihors ^of .thefe

forged bills, arid =wlvich generally are oaS

a e deterred people from attempting it a^a^^

et "Sr/' "^'^ *""* arrvefyfeaTeat
llTli ft ^'^'■^ " " i?*^« «">"* -^f 'mall c<5itt

oMrged to fuffe, a fmall loft, ami eould pVy „6

intermedkfepr,ces between oHe liVreand^wo*

I fHEV ctemmorily give one hundred and fift^

.wes a ysat to a faithful and diligent footnia?

bred f ''*T' :°^ '''^ ^"«' •^"^ar^e
kondred hvres. A journeytnan to an 4rti|

gets

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236 '^w^wy? 1749;

gets three or four llvres a day, and a common
labouring man gets thirty or forty fols a day.
The fcarcity of labouring people occafions the
wages to be fo high ; for almoft every body
finds it fo crjiy 40 fct up as a farmer in this uncuitj-
YaiCjd cc aiiyp wUere he can Hve well, and at a
fmall expence, that he does not care to I'erve
tnd vyork for others.

?f.. Montreal is the fccond town in Canadaj^m
regard to fize and vv^ai di ; but it is the firfl on
account of its fine fituation, and mild climate.
Somewhat above the town, the river St. Law-
rence divides into feveral branches, and by thati
means forms feveral iflands, and among which |
the iile of Montreal is the grcateft. It is tenj
French miles long, and near four broad, in its
broadefl,.part. Tk<< Xovfii oi Montreal is built
on the eaftexn, fide of the ifland, and clofeto
pne of theo.mpft confiderable branches of the)
fiver St, Lawrence ; and thus it receives a very!
pleafant, and advantageous fituation. Thel
town has a quadrangular form, or rather itis|
a redangular parallelogram, the long and eaflerr
fide of which extends along the great branch 0^
the river. On ^19 other fide it is furroundcc
with excellent corn-fields, charming meadowsJ
and delightful woods. It has got the name oj
Montreal ixony a great mountain, about half
mile wcftwards of the tov/n, and lifting its head
far abpve the woods. Monfieur C^rZ/Vr, oneoj
the firft Frenchmen who furveyed Canada morj
-Accurately, called this mountain fo, on his arj
rival in this ifland, in the year i535» when hj
vifited the mountain, and the Indian town J^^j

Montreal,

^vr

he Roman catholic way. would call every olace
in this country after fome faint or other canfn!

TL'T^""'' but they h^Jc^o S
ible to make th.s name general, for it has al-
ways kept Its firft name. It is prett^ well fonifi^i

anger from the fudden incurfions of the^enemy"

roops. Howev ,, it cannot long ftand a rS-

larfiege. becaufe it requires a great garriKn

.ccount of its extent, and blaufe^ it conVX

f .efly of wooden houfes. Here are fever"

I churches, of which I rhall only mention tha

lelongmg to the friars of the order of St Sul

J rs, that belonging to the nunnery. andAat

ofthehofpitalj of which the firft .v »,

bv far t\^f,r.A u L . ""' '^ however

,Jn ^^^r ' ^°'^ '" ''^"^ t° «s outward

inalVr^'T'"^-!.""^ °"'y '■" 'J>"^ PJ»c«:

ot 5/. 5«////«^ have a fine large houfe. where

wl W-^-'"'''^;'^ ^P*^'°"^> «"d h^s good
Th cot "f "?' fo magnificent as the former.
m college of tl e Jefuits is fmall. but well

halh anH f f 'u'"^' ^°^ "'^ amufement.
le! hM "'« °^ '''' ^"""""nities to which

«^b It^of-ft ^"""r^ "''^ '^""'■^ '» 'he town
r ,h l'*"""' ''"' '""'^ °f 'hem are of tim-
' '"""gh very neatly built. Each of the

better

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belter fort of houfes had a door towards ttic
Itrect, with a feat on aach fide of it, f©r amule*
meni and recreation in the morning and cvcninr/,
Th* long ftreets arc broad and ftrait, and divided
»t right angles by the fliopt ones : fome are pay-
«d, but moft of them very uneven. The gates
of tho town are numerous j on the eaft fide of!
the town towards the river are five, two great
and three kflfer ones ; and on the other fide arc
likewifc fevcral. The governor-general of Ca-
nada^ when he is at Mentreal, refides in the
caftle, which the government hires for that!
purpofe of the family of Vaudrtuil\ but the go-
vernor of Montreal is obliged to buy or hire a
houfe in town; though I was told, that the
government contributed towards paying the
rents.

In the town is a Nunnery, and without its
walls half a one; for though the laft was quite,
ready, however, it had not yet been confirmed I
by the pope. In the firft they do not receive
every girl that offers herfelf 5 for their parents
muft pay about five hundred ecus, or crowns,
for them. Some indeed are admitted for three
hundred ecus, but they are obliged to ferve thofe
who pay more than they. No poor girls are
taken in.

The king has ereded a hofpital for fick fol-
diers here. The fick perfon there is provided
with every thing he wants, and the king pays
twelve Ibis every day for his ftay, attendance,
(ilfc. The furgeons are paid by the king. When
an officer is brought to this hofpital, who is
fallen fick in the fervic^ of the crown, he re-

MoniYeal

'^19

^ ffives v,<fh,al3 and attendaiice gr^Is : but if he
Ins got a fickncffr in the execution of his private
tonccrns. anxi t:omes to be cured here, he muft
pay it out of his own purfe. When thep<s is
room ciiotighm the hofpital, tbey lifec wife take
ipfomc of the fickinhabHam^ of the town afid
country. They have the medicines, and the
^tendance of the furgeone, gratis, but nwft
pay twelve fols per day for meat, ^e.

Every Friday is a market-day, when the
country people come to the town with proviw
liona, and thofe who want them muft Up\r
fefdves on that day, bccaufe it is the onl J
market-day in the whole week. On that day
kbwiife a number of I^diam come to town, to
fell their goods, and buy others.

The declination of the magnetic needle wa«
here ten degrees and thirty-eight minutis, weft.
I Mr. G//to, one of the priefts here, who had
a particular taftc for mathematicks and aftrono-
my, had drawn a meridian in the garden of the
femin^ry which he faid he had examined re-
peatedly by the fun and ftars, and found to be
veryexa^ft. I compared my compafs with it, taking
earc ihat^no iron was near it. and found itsdecli-
flationjuft the fame as that which I have before
menrioned.

^ AccoRDiNO to Monfieur GiUIon's obfervati-
ens, the iMitude of Montreal is forty-iive de-
grees and twenty-fcven minutes.

Monsieur Fontarion, another prieft, had

.m^d-e thermometrical obfervations in Montrmk

trom the beginning of this year 1749. Hemade

j «ic ot Remmur\ thermometer, which* he placed

I omstinies m fhc window hulf open, and ixm^--

times

ilTM'

\A

,,l(

9-\\ !l

i

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\

546 -^uguft 1749.

times in one quite open, and accordingly
it will feldom mark the greateft degree
of cold in the air. However^ I (hall give ^
fhort abftra^l of his obfervacions for the winter
months. In January the greateft cold was oa
the ]8th day of the month, when the Reau-
murian thermometer was twenty*three degrees
below the freezing point. The leaf): degree of
cold was on the 31(1 of the fame month, when
itwasjuft at the freezing point, but mofl of the
days of this month it was from twelve to fifteen
degrees below the freezing point. In February
the greatefl cold was on the 19th, and z^i\
when the thermometer was fourteen degrees
below the freezing point; and the leafl was on
the 3d day of that month, when it rofc eight
degrees above the freezing point; but it was
generally eleven degrees below it. In March
the greatefl cold was on the 3d, when it
was ten degrees below the freezing point, and
on the 22d, 23d, and 24th, it was mildeil,
being fifteen degrees above it : in general it was
four degrees below it. In ^prtl the greateft
degree of cold happened on the 7th, the ther-
mometer being five degrees below the freezing!
point; the 25th was the mildefl day, it being
twenty degrees above the freezing point; but in |
general it was twtilve degrees above it. Thefej
are the contents chiefly of Monfieur Pontariorin
obferfrations during thofe months ; but I foundj
by the manner he made his obfervadons, that
tbe cold had every day been from four to fix
degrees greater, than he had marked it. Hel
bad likewife marked in his journal, that the]

•Montreal
trees were QuJtS^Sl ,'Tl' * «"■"'• '•'^^' 'he

winters on fhe o'he h "f *'"'*' ^^'''■- The
tut the friar^,; ,f „tv/' ?"'='' *°«-'-'

«^ hard as formery\Cr;h^' "'^^ "^--^
'he fame duration ■ ,nT\3 /j'^y were not of

fro- the north :td"„^h/4f''-''' "'^ "^°'«

%'^^-. in co«pan; Srthrr°"'i""'"*^ '°
^owr.,,/, M. 1 &^Z„J^ fecond major of

"■road on our kft on .h '^ T"' ''"'^ P«"y
,">e ifle of M«W ^" i^' "o^h-well fide was

K>^as clofeJy inbab 7ed ;ioI^!h '^^ ^'''-
^-as very plain a„rf fu. 5"^ ^« '■'»'«'•; and

ore confix of puTe „l,f'"^>'' ^'^ "''^
,^^« or four yards htbTL' "^T ''"^^^'^
own along the river IhI J ''^^"'°°'J« were cut
hcr/M _^ il^^'^-nae. for the diftanr^ "

^-noafes were

R

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242 -^^^«y^ ^749*

of wood, or ftone, indlfcritninately, and whlte^
wafLed on the outfide. The other buildings,
fach as barns, (tables, &c, were all of wood.
The ground next to the river was turned either
into corn-fields, or meadows. Novsr and then
we perceived churches on bpth fides of the river,
the fleeples of which were generally on that fide
of the church which looked towards the river,
becaufe they are not obliged here to put the
fteeples on the weft end of the churches. With-
in fix French miles of Montreal we faw fever^il
iflands of diifererit fizes on the river, and mod
of them were inhabited 5 and if fome of them
were without houfes on^them, they were fore-
times turned into corn-fields, but generally into
^Beadows. We faw no mountains, hills, rocks,
or ftones to-day, the country being flat through-
put, and confifting pf pure mould.

All the farms in Canada ftand feparate from
pach other, fo that each farmer has his pof-
feffions entirely diftindl f om thofe of his neigh-
bour. Each churchy it is true, has a little vil-
lage near it j but that confifti chiefly of the par.
ibnage, a fchpol for the boys and girls of the
place, and of the houfes of tradefmen, but rare-
ly of farm^houfes s and ?f that was the cafe, yet
their fields vyere feparated. The farm-houres
hereabout? are generally built all along the rifingl
banks of the riVer,' either clofe to the water or
at fome diftance from, it, and about three or four
^rpcns fron\ each other. To fome farms are
annexed frnall orchards : but they are in general
Without them; however, alrnofl every farmd
has a kitchen-garden. _ j

■ - ' ^ I HAVM

Between Montreal and T,
I HAVE been told by all ,h,

>'ois Rivieres,
>re who h;

243

journies To thribulhern ZT3 r^" ^/'' ""^de
the rhttMiJMppi, that^hl ^T'^^' """^ 'o
with peach™ whirh K f "'"■' =*'=""<^

in one of the roomf ,:h ^^ ^^"^ "°" ^o-'es
The roofs are corned ZthL'"''? " '^' ^'^^
vices and chinks a!e filled L't' . '^^' "^-
o.her buildings are c'oS w^ehta^^" ^^^

There are feveral r^./r '

road fide, which Is pL^^f;), T'^^P ^^ '^'
nm. Thefe croffi.! «1 '° 'he (hores of the

and are pu up tf .cT.J? "°""^°" '" ^'''"''^-.
'"• They are made of ,f °,"°2 '" "^^ '""^1-

high and%r:p™t„VSd'"l" 1^ >T'^^
which looks towards th. j ^" '^" ^"^e

in which they p7ace n ^«/° r ' ' ^^''^--^ '^"l^.
crof. or of ZloirC^ wi,^",?^"'-? ''-
her arms; and before th?.^! '^^ ^"^''"^ '"
giafi, to prevent its bei^i r% T^ ' P'=^^ °f

churches. are veTy n' cJ. ? ''.' "°' '"'^^ ^^°'"
"P abou, them J Z^a"'""^- '"^ ^''^.Vpit

Saviour. fucCa bamt J """?''"« °"'
°f vinegar, and Derh^^. ^'' ""'"' => "^'t

■^aliy made ufe P,7"Pl ™^"y ""ore th.n were

«hich crowed when. ./z^fS"? "O^e cock.

IS Comr»-»y^«l

when 5/. Pff,^ dj„i^^

7- put at the top of the crofs
R

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Auguji 1749.

The country on both fides was very delight-
ful to-day, and the fine ftate of its cultivation
fidded greatly to the beauty of the fcene. It
could really be called a village, beginning at
Montreal/ And ending at ^el?ec, which is a
dillance of more than one hundred and eighty
miles; for the farm-boufcs are never above five
arpcns, and fometimcS brt three, afunder, a
few places excepted. The profped is exceed-
ingly beautiful, when the river goes on for fome
pities together in a ftrait line, becaufe it then
ifhorten^ the diftances between the houfes, and
makes them form exactly one continued village.
" All the women in the country, without ex-
ception, wear caps of fomc kind or other. Their
jackets are fhort, and fo are their petticoats,
which fcarce reach down to the middle cf their
legs; and they have a fiWer crofs hanging down
on the breaft. In general they are very kborl-
otts; however, I faw fome, who, like the £k^-
/?//?> women in the colonies, djd nothing but
prattle all the day. When they have any thing
to do within doors, they (efpecially the girls)
commonly fing fongs, in which the word?
[Amour and Ca^ur are very frequent. In the
country if is uiual, that when the hufband re-
ceives a vifit from perfons of rank, and dine^
with them, his wit^ ftands behind and ferves
him; but in the townS;, the ladies are more
iiftinguiflied, and would willingly alfume an
^qual, if not a fuperior, power to their hui-
bands. When they go out of doors they wear
long cloaks, which cover all their other clothes,
and are either grey, brown, or blue. The men j

iiif

^''''^''> Montreal and trois Rl^;,,,, ,
fometimes make ufe of ft,„ , ' ^

obliged to go in the fa,-f'"the"'''" '""X^'^
fne aHv^niprre of hem^ • j ^^^ women have

cloaks. wieSLT^t^Tod/'S'''^ ""'^''^ "-^«
^ We fometimes faw wind m^f """^ "•
They were generally bj^^t^^' "^^'- "'^ farms,
of boards, ^whichf toe ,hL^°"'l '^'■''^ " '^^

=0"ld be turned to tlJS'cc^f 1' ^>^"'
The breadth nf »k • o^calionally.

-''*y=.>t\trtrp,:::--'-Vquai

quarter of an Englifl, mi e iS • "'^1"''°"' »
"was near two l^/^'^'^ "^"^ ' '" °'her part.

fometimes high and ite^n j r^ ^'°^« ^^as
or floping, ^ """^P' ^nd Sometimes low.

At three oVInrfr »(,:„ r

'he river, which /a ^i„t"r ''•"'= P^'^^'l ''^
^^»^^, and comes from it ^^, ''''"' ^t. Law>.
•niddle of whkh latte™isf , "^'"'n''^'^' '" '^^^
^chts which eo betw Jn 7. r ^^ '^^'"''- The
go on the fou.h^lft^^de'oflTsY^"' ;^"'''^-'
" " d-'eper there, b« th<- I^ ' ' '"""''"
"Wth-w-eft fide, becaufe ; '" ^'^" '^^^

■I^P enough for £h;mRr!i' •'f-^'^''' ^"'^ V^t
fe feveral more h oc^bouS K-' k ^ '''*°'' '^'^
«ed Somewhat tnC' Z^''^ ''' ^" '"'»-
fi-ies the river i, „n ,, .^' . country c- both

f^ quite overflowed %rr. ; " '^' ^°^» "^ t°

To make up for til /!«•"" ""'' °^'''^= y^r-'
^n> 'Old, if as th, ''^"''"'.y' "^e country, I

nver. °""'' « ^'ong the banks of the

r,ff 5-.^''''7f"5 apart of the rr„.. c.

's lo broad that
R

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we could hardly

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24^

Auguji 1749.

I ^ii

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kc any thing but iky and water before us and

1 was every where told, that it is feven French

miles long, and three broad. From the middle

of this lake as it is called, you fee a large high

country m the weft, which appears above the

woods. In the lake are many places covered

with a kind of rulh, or Scirpus palufirist Linn,

There are no houfes in fight on either fide>of

the lake, becaufe the land is rather too low

there; and in fpring the water rifes fo high,

that they may go with boats between the trees.

However, at fome diflance from the fliores,

where the ground is higher, the farms are

dofe together. We faw no iflands in the lake

this afternoon, but the next day we met with

fome.

Late in the evening we left lake St. Fierrer
and rowed up a little river called Riviere dc
houpi in order to come to a houfe where we
might pafs the night. Having rowed ?bout an
Efiglijh mile, we found the country inhabited
on both fides of the river. Its fliorcs are high ;
but the country in general is flat.. We pafTed
the night in a farm-houfe. The territory of
Af^;?/rW extends to this place; but here begins
the jiirifdidlion of the governor of T^ois Rivieresy
to which place they reckon eight French miles
from hence.

j^ug. 3d. At five o'clock in the morning
we fet out agnin, and firfi. rowed down the little
river till we came into the lake St. Pierre, which
we v.ent downwards. iVfter we hnd gone a
good v/ay, we perceived a high chain of moun-
tains in tiis north-vvef}, vvhith wsrs very much

CI r • \ " j

tci

^rois Riviereu

H7

•levated above the Jow fl.*

north-vveft fl^ore'of it'sr'pCwJn "^'^
general very cloftlv ;„i, ,•.-^7'^'^' was now in

louth-eaft 4 we L „„ r ; ""^ ^" "^=
co.nery covere/;i^\";„j;-^«- -'X a
times faid to be under water hnXt 1 ^T^'
there are, as I am ,niT ' '^'""'' ^'•"''^h

farms. Towards the en 'of ^thf Se"^" "'
went into its proper bounds a. „ 'hi "'"■
above a mile and a half hmV^ ^!i 'r ''^'"^ "°'
grows ftill narrower From' T"^ "^^'7^'*'' '*
St. Pierre to WpV,,;; u''* '^"'^ °f Lake

F..... miles, ^r atr^/ev^^oS"- '''^
morning we arrived at the ia«er n '"u''"'

wc attended divine fervicr ^ "' *"'''"'*'

7r^/*f Rivieres is a liffl^ ^« ? ^

had the appearnnc: of aSg" [.^"""t 'i;? '"^^
ever reckoned anions the !h™ ^ ' " '^ '"''''-

Canada, which =re"4 ^Vfer a'nTr °'
Rtvteres. It is faiV) 7^ 1 .' f"""^^"'' ^"^ Trois

'he two firft and »h:'^ 'V'^' ?''^'^^' ''"^^^en

from each Vhe ro w^ ^- ^I'^f' "*'" •^'"^"t

Me of the rivj St i? " *'"''' "" "^^ "°^'h

one fide the rLr n <^ f '"^ P'^'"'"*"'- O-^

%/^. oit a" d"a S\ o^d ^'g'„ I'^-V"
Me, are fine corn-fidd, !u\ ? /''^ ""'"'■
much mixed with fand ^^u '^' '^" '^ ^^^^
churches of ftor 1 1 " '^= '^""^ "'^ t^^O

•he friars ttod"er"o"Tt ^".' ^ """'^^"^
!»wi is likewife the feafof L ,rr- ^^''*
•" C«W«, whofe ho„rf • , r ''^'"^ §°^^'"o
MoftoftheX h r " '•''^"''^ of rtone.
«nrv °-i \°. ".'^°"'^' ="■= of timber, a fin^u

o". ^wicrabiy well builr, and (land

R

very
niuch

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2^4^ • AuguJI ij4,^:

much aftrndcr; atifl the'ftfccts artf crooked.
The fhore here conlifts of fand, and the rifing
grounds aloiig it are pretty bigh. When the
wind is very violent here, it raifes the fand, and
blows it about the flrects, naaking it very
tfroublefome to walk in thcna. The nuns,
which are about twenty-two in rlucnber, arc
reckoned very ingenious m aVl kinds of needle-
work. This town formerly flouriOied more
tfcan any other in Canada, for the Indians
brought their goods to it from aH fides ; but
iince that time they go to Montreal and ^ehecy
and to the Englifi, on account of their wars
with the Iroquefey or Five Nations, and for
feveral other realbns, fo that this town is at pre-
ient very mmrh reduced by it. Its prcfent inha-
bitants live chiefly by agriculture, though the
neighbouring iron-works may fervc in fom©
ineafurc to fupport them. About an Englifi mile
below the town, a great river falls into the river
St. Laavrence, but lirft divides into three bran-
ches, k) that it appears as if three rivers difem-
bogued thecifelves there. This has given occafi-
on to call the river and this town, Trois Rhiem
(the T^liree Rivers. J

I'HR tide goes about a French mile above
'Trois Rivieres, though it is lo triiiing as to be
hardly obfervable. But about the equinoxes,
and at the nev^ moons and full moons in
fpnng and autumn, the difterence between the
higheft and loweii: water is two feet. Accord-
ingly the tide in this river goes very far up,
for from the ahave-intntioncd place lo the

lea

i&

'm

Trols Rivieres,

H7

wf™lir'",?'""»:''''^''«^-«l fifty

JilTu .'"5"^°"'P*°y were refting;! Went
on horfebacfc joview the iron-work Tk!
country which I pafled through was prlt
hjgb faady. and generally flat I fa/n7
iher ftones nor mountains here.

The tron-worlt, which is the on I v one in .kL
country, lies .hree miles to the wK r«^
fowm. Here are two ereat for<,« k r?
two leiTerones ,o each of Te'gfSes 1'nd
under the fame roof with themf The bellows
.ere made of wood, and every thing elfrislc
1 in Wj/& forges. The melting fvens ftand
clofe to the forges and are thelame" om
The o,e IS got two French ailes and a half from

1 i.Tkir';' ^^ ""^"^"^ "'"'^^r ^o fledged
It IS a kind of moor ore *, which lies in veins

w..h.n fix inches or a foot from the firflc' of

.^be ground. Each vein is from fix to e Jht.et

'"ches deep and below it is a white fand^ The

ms are iurrounded with this fand on both

i^Jes. and covered at the top with a thin L Id

The ore is pretty rich and lies in loofeTnl;

the ve.ns of the fize of two fifts. tloX

S ''WlZ "*'"^'' ='^-" eighte^nS
Lfiil./ 1 '^"Psare full of holes, which
^e filled with ochre. The ore is fo foft th . t
!; may be crulhed betwixt the . fingers Viev
make ufe of a grey ihne-ftone, which is iJiki

in

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j^uguji 1749.^

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Nir.

in the neighbourhood, for promoting the fufi-
bility of the ore j to that purpofe they likewifo
employ a clay marie, which is found near ihij
place. Charcoals are to be had in great abun-
dance here, becaufe all the country round this
place is covered with woods, which have nevet*
been ftirred. The charcoals from ever-green
trees, that is^ from the fir kind, are befl: for the
forge, but thofe of deciduous trees are beft for
the fmelting oven. The iron which is here
made, was to me defcribed as foft^ pliable, and
tough, and is faid to have the quality of not
being attacked by ruft fo eafily as other iron;
and in this point there appears a great difference
between ihc Spafiijh 'won and this in (hip-build-
ing. This iron- work was firft founded in 17371
by private perfons, who afterwards ceded it to
the king; they cafl cannon and mortars here,
of uilfcrent fizes, iron floves which are in ufe
all over Canada^ kettles, &c. not to mentioa
the bars which are made here. They have like-
wife tried to make ileel here, but cannot bring
it to any great perfection, becaufe they are unac-
quainted with the befl manner of preparing it.
Here are many officers and overfeers, who have
very good houfes, built on purpofe for them.
It is agreed on all hands, that the revenues of
the iron-work do not pay. the expences which
the kitig mud every year be at in maintaining
it. They lay the fault on the bad flate of po-
pulation, and fay that the few inhabitants in
the country have enough :o do with agriculture,
and that it therefore coils great trouble and large
fums, to get a fuilicient number of workmen. I

B'J5

Trois Rivieres.

But however plaufible th

25r

is f J

IS

may appear, yet it

pridng that the king fhould he a lofer

«rryng on th.s work ; for the ore is cjw

Shi?' t7 ■"'''■ '^' '^'o^-^ork. and ve J
tuiible The iron is good, and can be very con-
.eniently difperfed over the country. Th's Is
nioreover the only iron-work in the cruntri
from which every body muft fupply himft{f
with iron tool,. .„d what other iron he w"n
But the officers and fervants belonging ,?", '
-ron-work, appear to be ,n very affluent ci
cumftances. A river runs down from theiron"-
work. into the river St. Lawrence, by whlh
.11 the iron «n be ftnt in boats through^orthe
country at a lew rate. In the evening^! retu „!
ed cga.n to Trois Riviera. ^

ylug. 4.h. At the dawn of day we left this
ace and went on towards Quebec. We found
> e land on the north fide of7he river fomewW
cievated iandy. and clofely inhabited alonTthe
water fide. The iouth-eaft ftore. we were
■old. IS equally well inhabited, bu the w^ods
along that (hore prevented our feeing the houfes

li I'r' ^"'''f^^h"-? -n the fount rihc
land clofe to .he river being fo low as^ be
'"bjea ,0 annual inundations. NearW/J/
^res the river grows fomewhat narrow/ bu't
"enlarges again, as foon as you come a iit.L

^^Vn^rt"'.' ''"' ""'^ th 'breadth of a ;

two hnglij/j miles.

.As we went on, we faw feveral churches

^ ore "of "t """' ""' "^" •'"'" °"-- Th"
'abr.hlt,.:!r!^r^^'5^'r.>habi,ed for

about three Quarters nF
, - — _ _

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WEBSTER, NY. 14580

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cpi^tryj ]M bjcyiMiS di& the woocJs and ttd
yrildefnefs eufcrcarc* All the rivulets falling in^
•to the river St, Lawrence are Mkewtfe well in^
habited on . bptl^ fides* I obferved thrqughout
Canada^ that the Qultivated lands \j only along
the river Sl^. Lawrence^ and the atlwr rivers ia
the iCountry, the environs of towns excepted^
round which the country is all cultivated and
inbabiiterf within- the diO-aoce of twelve or eigh-
teen Bn^lijh inilrs. .Th« great iflands in the
liver are likevvife inhabited.
^^jThx ftiores of.the river now became higher^
more obliq^ue and ileep^ however they confided
chiefly of earth.. Nov/ and then fome rivers, oc
great bnooks, fall in tp the t'wcv St » Lawrence ^
among which one of the mod confiderable is the
MivJere PuatUe,, which unites to the fouth-eaft
fidck with the river St, Laurefice, about two
French rpiles bttlgw Trois Rkicres, and has on
its bank?, a little way frorw its mouth, a town
called Beca?icotirty xj^hich is wholly inhabited by
4^enakee Ind^ansi who have been converted to
the Rp?mm ca^holi^^ religion,, and have Jefidti
among than?; ,Af a great diftance, on ihe'north-
weft fide^^Ql^" ihje.;.xi>'e;r, wa faw a chain of very
^^g^ >W^»iwi[l?,..run^r^ing frjoui noriK to foulh^
e^y.aj^S ai>P.ve^ihe.re4 vf the count rvy which iJ
quitie/fl^trhctS vHJtlioqi ,any remarkable hills.
j,,,IJer.b .were feyera) ]im.6-kilns along the river?
and the lime-ilonc employed in them is broke
ifi the neighbouring high grounds* It is com-
pi(5t and grey, and the lime it yields is pretty
white.

Between Trois Rivieret and ^eiec. 25,

The fields here are generally fown with wheat
oats, ipajze, and pcafe. Gourds and water.

melons v^pMiited in abundance Hear tb*

farms.- ^^i^^^.i, ■:iiH 'v^i^.-rv . ,,>.,.

A Humining im (rrochm^stduhrt^T^
jmong the bufljes. in a place" whert wc Janded
0-day. The French frail it Oifiau muche, and
% ,t IS pretty common in' Canada j and I have
ton It lince federal timej at %?!«• "-■"" K'1>Ju.^
_ About fi^e o'clock in the afternoon' we were
obliged to take our night's lodgings oh^ Ihore^
rhe w.nd blowing very ftrong Igainft usTand
bemg attended with rain. '<! flund thi. ,he
rearer we came to C«.^.^. the more op,in and
free from woods was the country. ThV place
where We pafll-d^ ,he night Is diftant from L^!
^•f twelveTTrfwc^ miles. — ,' !>, '"" i!.i:w."i,,1>*

• ^1^^ ''*''f * ""y peculiar method of catchi
ing fifh near the /hore here. They plac/hed^M
*r,g the ftore. made of twtfted ozfers, fo dofe
£ ,"0° f * "" g«,«hrough them, and from one
den f.«f ''!"'. '"«''' """'"^'"g '° the different

Phoofe fqeh place* where the water run.j ol
ur.ng the^ ebb. and leaves the hedg^ Ik!

tbll ^/''P'•i?.*''* '"°™ of cylinders.
Nt broader below. They are placed upright
and 8re about a yard high, and^two feetand a

ntrance for the fiihes, made of twigs, and fome-
!"»« of yarn made into a net. Oppofite toTbL

fowards^the lower part of the river, b another

entrance.

!

254

Auguft 1747.

entrance, like the firft, and leading to a box of
boards about fotfr ftet long; t^o deep, and two
l>Toad, Near «^ch of the whefels is a hedge, lead-
ing obliquely to the long hedge, arid making an
acute angle with it. This jytier hfcdge is made
iii order to lead the fifh iftto the trap, and it is
placed on that chd^f the loiig hedge which looks
towar<ls the. upper part of the river 5 now when
the tide comes ^p the river, the fifli* and chief-
ly the eels, go ufp with it along the river fide ;
wheri the water begins to ebb, the fi(h likewife
go down the river, and meeting with the hedges,
they fwim alofig* them, till' they come through
the wheels into thdbbkcs of boards, at the top of
which there is a hole with a cdver, through
which the fifh idould be taken -out. This ap-
paratus is chiefly niiade on account of the eels.
In fome places berekbouts they place nets inftea^
of the hedges of twigs; > X^^^^* u a<^- 4

The fhore-s df the rlvfer tto# cbnfifted no
more of pure ekrfh ; but of a fpecies of flate,
They are very' fteep, and nearly f^erpendicular
here, and the -flktcs^^ of which the^ confift are
black; with a brown call j and divifibl6 into thin
ihiv^rs, no thicker thstn the back of a knife.
Thcfe flates mtiuldief as fobn ak tHey are eXr
pofed to 'the open' ^f^ and the 'fhore is covered
with ' graiiis* of Imall fand, whitfi^ari nothing but
particles of fuch mouldered ilates. Some of the
ftrata run hbrizbniijl; others obliquely, dipping
10 the fouth, aiKj rifing to the north, and feme-
times the contrary way. Sometimes they form
bendings like large femicircles : fometimes a
prpendicular line cuts <i^ th^ ftrata, to the depth

Between Trols Riviem and ^ebec. 2:5

_of two feet J and the Hates on both fides of the

Jine form a perpendicular and fqjooth wall. In

fooie places hereabouts, they find amongft the

flates a ftratum abiput four inches thick of a erev

compaa. but pretty fof, lime-ftone. of which

the i/^ms^ for many centuries haw made, and

the ^w# 3f .prei^pt ftUl.make, tobaccor
pipes *. "^•v^

^»j-^/Sth. This morning wc. continued

o«r jouTftev by rpwing. the contrary wind hin-

.dcnng us from failing,, The appe,raiwe pf ,he

fliores was the fame as yefterday; they were

)iigb, pretty fteep, and quite perpendicular , and

confiftcdof the black ilate before defctibed. The

country at the top was a plain without emi-

Mnces,,ap^ clofely inhabited abng the river, for

jibout the fpace of an. £„^/^ mile and ahajf in,

land. Here are no illands in this part of tfc

fiver, hut leveral flony places, perceptible at low

water o^ly which have feveral times proved fa-

t?l to travellers. The breadth of , the xiver va-

'^^ .•" fope parts i(t W4S a little more than

iree quartfrs of a mile, in others half a mile.

W4 in ftme above_ twp^iles, .The inhabitants

S! f^L '^' ' [*'^' HPf 5^4 ,pf,c8tching eels

J ore-n,enf.Qne^ h, n,,ny place^.they mike

?5

.♦ Tllisl!m.llnn.C._ . •."•'•■'''•'V'" 'WJIl ;^Q «3i3in«(»
m, but grows harder in time. Fv * T^ ^ "^^^^

Iv i 1;

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256

Auguli iy4j.

V

• i r

"'■ ' i':'-l|!

Bugs {Cimex leBularius) abound In Canada]
and I met with them in every place where I
lodged, both in the towns and country, and the
people know of no othyer remedy for them than
patience".

'^ni Cricfcets {QryUus domeflkus) are alfo
abundant in Cunada, efpeciatiy in the country,
where ttc^di^grecable giieA« lodge in the
chimpies' 5 '^ 8or a^e they uncomnfion in the
town«, Tficy ^^y he^p fepiih fiimmer and winter,
and fie^mly cm clothes in pieces for paf.
time. " ., -;:,^„

• Thk GocEroaches {Bkm orientalis) hav^
^ifcver been found in the houfes here.

The (horcs of the riycr grow more floping as
you come nearer to ^eiec: To the northward
appears a high ridge of mountains. About two
Frenc/i miles and a half from ^^^^^ the river
beconies very narrow, the Ihorcs being within
the re^ch of a rnuiketribot from each other.
The country on both fides was floping, hiliy,
trovercd with trees, aud fead many finan rocks ^
the jhbi)e was ftony. About four o'clock in ^n
aftemood we- happily arrived at ^d^C The
xhy does, ^i^(^t,^^sLX tifl bne is cloffe to it, the
prp&cd^.p<5.i|M; iiHeNJcf^ed by a high tnoumain

on tiie.^th'ftdct Ho^^*^^^^^^ * P^^f ^^ ^^^ ^o*""
tifkationV f§fcu an mgboi dtiftance, being fitit-
ate on ;tbQ^i%^|tj|iouiilain« As foon as the fol-
diersjk^v^lif ,|IMB with W^^^^i^ec, tliey cal-
led Qttt^ t|ut aB^iofeiwlK} bad never been there
t)efbre fliouldbc dtickcd, if they did not pay
fomctlVing to releafe tbcmfelvcs. This cuftora
even the governor-general of Canada is obliged
* ^ te

^ehe^i

^57

to fubmit to, on hi"« firA •
We did not 'J: X't'ZTiJ°r f"'r&
•own to b= exempted Trom ,h' .^^ ' °^ '''''
which is very ad.am.reous to ti, ^"'"^ '"^°™-
enables theft, to fDend!!. '^°"'*"' «» >t

Immediately aft«(r m„ ?•,'"' '*'>°''''-
who bad accc^Ltf^^ "''.'.*'"' "ffi"'

me ro the p.I,ce oHh. tbTn W?" ^""'•^'' '«<»
-I of C.U. th ™J' Wj.'Bor-gene.

nobleman of »ncommorSet wfc't^' !
towards me with evf r,„,^- ' '*''» *ebaved

•he time he ftaid I tk' "'/^ ^°°'^"*''*' ''""'"^
•'ready ordered fol^U,!'""'"'^; ^^ ^^^
for me, ind took Tare ?^ !"" u* '° ^* «°* ^""Jy

'hins I ---drb^irhCol r„rjf;-?

- - .0 bis tab.. aJe^ir^-^w"

•he mountiio, oa wh^lk "^ *^ "©rth fide;
gin great naftures • an^ *k / o^nJnd it be-

M.ftmg«ia,ed i«to .he'!;l7,":^-^Tbe a^

^«e lowec hcs on the Fi»#N. ZH .^^ *

*t)L, If.

^ U hat!tf VdUl^ la h4^, ViU,^

by

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Auguft 1749.

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by a foclc which lay that way, not by any gra-
dual diminution of the water. The upper city
lies above the other, on a high bill, and takes
up five or fix times the fpacc of the lower,
though it is not quite fo populous^ The moun-
tain^ oh whrcb the upper city is fituatcd, reaches
above the houfes of the lower city. Notwith-
ftanding the latter «re three or four (lories high,
and >^c view, from the palace, of the lower
cit)r-#art of Which is immediately under it) is
^nou^ to caufc a fwimming of the head. There
is only one eafy way of getting to the upper city,
and there part of the mountain has been blown
tl^r This road IB very fteep, notwithftanding it
is made winding and ferpentine. However,
they go up and down it in carriages, and with
waggons. All the other roads up thfe mountain
are fo fteep, that it is very difficult to climb to
the top of them. Moft of the merchants live
in thelov^rcr city, where the houfcs are built
very clofe 'together. The ftreets in it are nar-
row; very i^ugged, aod^ almoft - always wet.
There is likcwife a church, and a fmall market-
place. T^he Oppcr city is inhabited by people
of qa^lity, by fevei^al pferfons belonging to the
.different oflceSj'bJ^^tradefmen, and others. In
this paut are the fchi^f buildings of the town,
amongit«vfci(!lf^4he -knowing are worthy parti-
cular fiotioe. »!^. eJcal :)fU .n?u ^ i^.
xii J.'^The Piiiteaisf^^atedon^^ the Weft or
fteepeft^ fide of -the' mountain, juft above the
lower city. It is not properly a palace, buta
large building of ftonc, two ftories high, exrend-
ing north and fouth. On the weft fide of it is
° a court*

wi h rl^' fu « ''''°"* '*'° ^^'''°'" broad, paved

«h b°t a A;"-"^ "''"". "'^ "'y ""-^ 'he river
exn.D.t a charmmg profpea. This eallerv

f rv,s asa very agreeable walk after dinnernd

hofe who come to (peak with the governor-e"-

is he lT-^"% 'i" ^' " " ^'^^''"' T«« pal! cc

hhJhu ^ '°^''"^" '»°""' «h= guard before
When fhf ' ^''' ""'' '" ""= -'^"♦-yard^ and

tl^e drum ir^ '" W"' '■" ''™"' ""d beat
haoel »k u «r""°'-g<'"<=f''» has his own
Chapel where he hears prayers; however he
often gc^s to mafs at ,he chufch of the iZls*
wh,ch.s very near the palace. '

eiol; ;n ^ ^u"'''^" '" ''"■■' 'own are feven or
eight .n number and all built of ftone.

1. 1 HE CatAedra/ church is on the rieht fianrf
comrng from the lower to the upper thy. S'
w« beyond the biihop's houfe^ T^' pZ ;

olVLTfT""'^^'^''^ '" ornamenting '^t!
di ifio„rf„ fh ' /' " r«"nd fteepfe. with two
mwhons ,„ the lower of which aVe fome bells

2 T,,T-Fn: T''* f*='' are very fine.

0 ly chur'ch th./h ' '°''?' ^''P^' '^^'^ '^ 'h^
"y cnurch that has a clockj and I fliall m^n

"on It more particularly below. ' "*"*

"u Uijtivaniia. ' ' ^■'""''•- riuiiiijcijlriai.

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3. The Recokis church is oppofite the %^X^
of the palaccy on the weft fide, looks well,
and has a pretty high pointed fleeple, with a
divifion below for the bells.

4. The church of the UrfuUnes has a round
.^ire. ,,,,... ,,.^, . .><i-...

5. The churcl> of the hofpital.

6. TuEhiftiop's chapel. ,

7. Th^ church la the loW6r city was built
in 169Q, after the town had been delivered from
the 'EngUJh^ and is called liotre Dame de la
Vi&oire. It has a fmall fteeple in the middle of
the roof, fcjuare ?it the bottom, and round at

thetop,;^; . . - .^ U.U ^

8. The little chapel of the governor^general,

may like wife he ranked amongft thefe churches.

III. Th& biftop's houfe is the firft, on the
right hand, coming frbm the lower to the up-
per town. It is a fine large building, furround-
ed byan extenfive court-yard and kitchen-garden
on one fide, and by a wall on the other.

IV,. T^ E college of the Jefuits, which I
will defcribe more particularly. It has a much
more noble appearance, in regard to its fize and
architediurc, than the palace itfelf, and would
be proper for a palace if it had a more advanta-
geous ilfuati^n. It is about four times as large
as the palace, and is the finefl building in town.
It ftands on the north fide of a marker, on the
jfouth fide pf which is the cathedral.

V. The houfe of the Recolets lies to the
weft, near the palace and dirtdlly over againft it,
and confifts of a fpacious building, with a large
orcliard, and kitchen-garden. The houfe i$

two

^tiec.

26

two ftori« high. In each ftory is a narrow
gallery wath .roop,^„i5^d,,halls o.fone. or both

Vi. The mulJ, D!eu. where the fick are

yir. The houfe of tli'e clVrgy « « a large
bj'.Id.ng. on the north-eaft fide of the cathedra^l!
Here is on one fide a fpacious court, and on the
other towards the ri.er. a great orchard, and
kitchen-gardcn. Of all the buildings in the
town none has fo fine a profpeft as that in the

fe^'i°''«'"« '.° ."''^ '"^"^'^' *hich Jies on
iver ^ T? Tr'"'' '°°\' " ^ood way down the
»ra J u-^'f?'" °" •''* ^"'"^f hand have the
worlt, and hardly any profpeft at all from their
college nor have the.RecoIets any fine view
from their houfe. In this building all the clergy
of Quebec lodge with their fuperiof. They hafe
large p.eces of land in feyeral parts of Canada
Thth'^J 'V^"" ''^ "^rg-ernn.ent. /rot'

Vlll, The convent of ths Utfutine w.xs (hall
be mentioned in the fequeJ. "■''«'

These are all the chief public buildings in

he town, but to the^pon^-weft, juft before
the town, is '^^' .? wr^. .o^?.,-'

IX. The houfe of the intendant, a public
building, whofe fize makes it fit for a palace
It IS covered with tin, and ftands in a fecond
iower town, iUuated fouth ward upon the riv^r

• l^e Semwaire,

St.

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Augujl 1749.

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;9/. Charles, It has a large and fine garden on
its north fide, In this houfe all the dclihcrations
concerning this province, are held ; and the
gentlemen who have the management of the
police and the civil power meet here, and the
intcndant generally prcfides. In affairs of great
confequence xht governor-general is likewifc
here. On one fide of this houfe is the florc-
houfe of the crown, and on the other the
prifon.

Most of the houfes in ^ebec are built of
flone, and in the upper city they are generally
but one ftory high, the public buildings except-
ed. I faw a few wooden houfes in the town,
but they mufl not be rebuilt when decayed.
The houfes and churches in the city are not
built of bricks, but the black limc-flates of
which the mountain confifts, whereon ^lebec
flands. When thefc lime-Hates are broke at a
good depth in the mountain, they look very
icompadl at firft, and appear to have no fliivers,
dr lamellce, at all; but after being cxpofed a
while to the air, they feparate into thin leaves.
Thefe flates are foft, and cafily cut; and the
city-walls, together with the garden- walls, con-
iifl chiefly of them. The roofs of the public
buildings are covered with common Hates,
which are brought from France^ becaufe there
fire none in Canada.

The flated roofs have for fome years wich-
ilood the changes of air and weather, without
fuiFering any damage. The private houfes h«ve
roofs of boards, which are laid parallel to the
fpars^ and fometiines to the eavcS| or fometimes

pbliquely.

^ichec.

263

obliquely. The corners of houfcs are made of
a grey fmall-grained Hmc-none, which has a
^rongrmdl, hke thc//y;^>^V^«, *, and the win-
dows are generally enchafed with it. This lime
ftonc IS more ufcful in thofc places than the lime-
^^^tcs, which always fhiver in the m. The out-
iides of the houfes are generally white-wafhed.
The windows are placed on the inner fide of the
walls J for they have fometimes double windows
in winter. The middle roof has two, or at
nioft three fpars, covered with boards only.
The rooms are warmed in winter by fmall iron
floves, which are removed in fummer. The
ftoors are very dirty in every houfe, and have
all the appearance of being cleaned but once
every year.

The Powder magazine ftands on the fummit
ot the mountain, on which the city is built,
and louthward of the palace.

The ftreets in the upper city have a fufficient
breadth, but are very rugged, on account of
the rock on which it lies; and this renders them
very di (agreeable and troublefome, both to foot-
paflengers and carriages. The black lime-flates
ballet out and projed every where into fharp
angles, which cot the (hoes in pieces. The
ftreets crofs each other at all angles, and are vcfy

The many great orchards artd kitchen-Par-
dens, near the houfe of the ^Jefuits, and other
public and private buildings, make the town

^atic^^W.lit^/^'M- ^^"'-^y^' "I- P' 86- Lapis fuillusprif-

^4 appear

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^uguj 1749.

^ppcar very large, though the number of houfts
it contain^ is nor. very confjderaWe. Its extent
from foui^ to north is faid to be about fix hun-
dred iaifes, anij. from the Qiore of the river
alongthcio-^'er tpwn; to the wcftern wall be-
twecn three hundred amd fifty and four hun.
dred tpifes. It mafl be Here obfervejd, that this
fpace ii not ^ct whclly inhabited 5 for on the
weft and fouth fide, i)png the town walls, are
large pfeccs of land ^^iihout any. buildings on
them, anddeftined to be built upon in future
times, when the nun^pf inhabitants will be
encreafed in ^f^^i?y ' ,

The bifliop, whofe ftJC is ja the city, is the
only biftjBp m^Cam^a. 'm$ diopefe extends ^0
Loui/^am; on the Mexic/in gulf fouthward, and
to the fbuth-feas weft vyard , ^-. ., , _^ „

Nobirhop, the pope, excepted, ever' had a
more e;x:teBfive aiocefc,. But bis Spiritual flock
IS very inccnfiderabte ;^t Tome diftanqe from ^e-
Sec, and his (heep;arepttcn many hundred miles
diftantfrlDni each other, t" .

Sipelfec iS the oply lea:port and trading town
in all Cahd^^ and from thence all the produce
c^ the cpuntrjM? exported. The port is below
the town ih the gVeVj, which is there about a
qushter bf a Wrench mile broad, twu;ty-fivc
fathonis dee|), and its gii>iind is very good f6r
anchoring, / -^ t/ie Vfljjps' are fecared fVom all
Itorms in this' port i However, the north-eaft
wind is the wc!-ft, becaufe it can ad more
powerfully. When I arrived here, I reckoned
thirteen great and fmall veflels, and thev ei-

Jput it i^ to De re-
marked)

pCwivvi ^livic ly wuiiic in.

marked, that -fig other' fli.ps tWan Fr^w>5 &H«
can come .nto the^iort, tho'ugh they Stdme
from any plart ,„ Fr.n'ce. anllikiwLS^'

Sr Th ^. "^ ""^" '° f'" 'heir go Js

■bfiftence. and that fcven.1 are^eTy ^S
debt, whjch they fay is owin» *« .k • .
and vanifv Tki ' " owing to their luxury
ana vanity. The merchants drefs vervfin^/
;ndare extravagant in their filpifti j/S'
ladies are every day in fuir ^«^ * j "'"^

a^-edasif^eyi;:;'i!?,^'^jj«^-ch

aici liae, DUr riAfiir^ fcia,^^ ,!._»- .

ior fh,..v. u ' ,-.—'*"- *^^ii^o lu nave wc

'wthcm, by placing a rock there which

- xv^iiio lu nave worked

It is

am

»poffibI

!«

^(

! !

'lO

^ihf

z(>6

Auguji 1749.

i I

11 1.17

inapoffible ta afcend. All the rifing land there-
abputs iss like>vife fo well planted with cannon,
thatit feems iq[ipoflible for an enepiy's (liipsor
bpa^s to come to the town withq^t running into
icaoilncnt danger of being funk. On the land
fid« the tawn is likewife guar4ed by high moun-
tains y fo thft,q^9fe,,§Qd ^af^Jjay^.qombined to
it;-, . •. '< . ■■ . - ,:.

^ebec yv^s founded by it? former governor,
Samel de Champlain, io the, year 1608. We
arc inforcned by hiftory, that its rife was very
flow. In 1629, towards the end of Julyy'w. was
taken by two JS>nglifime?2r Lewis ^nd Thomas
Kerkrky capitulation, and fuirendered to them
by the aliov^^tpenlioped de Champlain, At that
-fime, Cana^aan^^ehec Vitv^ wholly deftitute|
of proviliona j fo that they looked upon the Eng-
lijh more as their 4cliverers than thtir enemiai
The abovci-mer^Moned -K>r>^j, were the brothers
of the Englijh admiral David Kerk, who lay
with his fleet fom^what lower in the river. In
the year 1632, ■ the, i^r^;zc/z got the town of
^ebeG^ and allC^^^^j, returned to them by tbef
peace, l^is remarkable, that the F/-^,zc// were
doubtful wh^the^ they fhould reclaim Canaial
from the Englifh^ or leave it to them. The
greater part were of opinion, that to keep it
would be of no; advantage to France, becaufc[
the country was cold ; and the expences far ex«
Reeded its produce -, and becaufe France couldl
not people fo cxtenfive a country, without
weakening herfelf, as Spain had done before;!
that it was better to keep the people in Franca

r n I

and employ tliem in aii iOf ts 01 manuiacrarci^

wbicli

^uelec.

ttf

hvliicfc would obligd the other European poweit
Uho have co]onie& in America to bring their raw
^oods to French ports, and take FrencA manu^
[azures in return. Thofc on the other hand
Uho had more extenfive views, knew that the
climate was not fo rough as it had been repre^
fcnted. They likewife believed that that which
caufcd the expenccs was a fault of the company
becaufe they did not manage the country well!
They would not have many people fent over at
once, but little by little, fo that Fra?2ce mipht
Dot feel It. They hoped that this colony would
m future times make Fraffce powerful, for its
inhabitants wbuld become more and more ac-
quainted with the herring, whale, and cod
fifhenes, and likewife with the taking of feals -
and that by this means C^;!^?^^ would become a
fehool for training up feamen. They further
mentioned the feveral forts of furrs, the conver-
iion of the /W/W;?/, the ihip-building, aiidthe
various ufes of the extenfive woods. And laftly
that it would be a confiderable advantage to
[France, even though they ihould reap no other
benefit, to hinder by this means the progreft of
the Eng/i/h in ^mn'ca, and of their encreafinff
power which would otherwife become infup^
portable to FraP2ce', not to mention feveral other
reafons. Time has (hewn that thefe reafons
were the refult of mature judgment, and that
fteylaid the foundation of the rife of Frafjce
t were to be wifhed that we had been of the
lame opinion in Sweden, at a time when we were

httuallv in nnfTpfTlrvn ^f at r- 7 .1 ^ >,

|findbeft province in all I:^orth America, or when

wc

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i

!

'i[', '

^ t

' f ^

v:ff

\l

dt68

' a

hi "i!

i^ I:':

m I

AuguJI 1749.

lYc were yet in a conditiod to get the pofltfllon
pf it. WifiJom gnd fprcfight does npt only look
upon the prcCenl Uipeg, but eivcn extend^ its
views to futurity. ' . *

In the year 1663, at the beginning of February,
the great earthquake was felt in ^ekc andai
^reatpartpf Cajtada, and there are ftill feme
yeftiges of its cflfc(aa at that time i however, no
Jives were Iftft, :. ^; , / r

p Qn the 16th of 0^^^/r 1690, ^^(?^^^ was,
tefieged by the E^ngUji) general William P%
who was obliged tp retire a few days after, with
great lofs. The EngUjh have tried feveral limes
to repair their loffcs, but the river St. haijorenik
has alwayjs been a v^ry good defence for this!
country. An. enemy, and one that is not ac.
quainted with this river, cannot go upwards ini
it, without being ruined s. for in the neighbour*
hood of ^uebeCy\l abounds with hidden rocks,
and has ufpng currents in fame places, whichl
^pblige the (nips to make many windings. [

TTwE name pf |J|/^^/^ it is fa^d is derived from
a ,iVc7m<^» word* on account of its fituation onl
^jft neck or point pf land, For when one comesj
wp in the river by l^JJi^ ^ Orleans ^ that part oif
\iitx\y^iSt%h4'^rence does not come in fightj
^ ,whic^ Hesrabpve the town, .SLt^U it appears asii
"rthe river y(/C^tfin/fx,w^ Hesjuft before, wai
;;^ cpn^jnuation pf* the St» Lawrence. But op
.advancing furib^^jb^sjjr^ecpurfe of the rive^
..iComes within %lit,3nd has at firft a grea
limilarity to the mouth of a river or a great bayJ
This has given occafion to a failor, who fawi
i.i;incxpe<aedly, to cry out in his provincial dialeq

• ■• » » A 1

^eheci^ ,

26$

\lutbec*, that 5s what a point of land! and
from hence it is ihqught the city, ob^taincd its
j narn^. Others derive it from t}ae Algonkin word
\iuehega or Quebec, %nifying th^t >yhich grow,
wrrow, becaufe the r,ivcf, becomes narrower as
litcomes nearer to the town., .

IHE river 6/. Lawrence » ^xa^ly a otiartet
of a Fr^^// mile,, or three quarters of gn iB«jfii/^
mile broad ^i^ebec. The fall; / water nlver
comes up to the town in Jt,.an4 therefore the
inhabitants can make ufc of. ^he" water In the
river for their kitchens, Uc^ All accounts
agree that not withftanding ^^jg breadth of thh
I river, and the violence of its courfe, efpeciaUy
during ebb. It is covered with ice during the
whole winter, which is ftrppg eno^gh for walk-
ing, and a carriage may go over it. It js faid
to happen frequently that, when^he . river has
been opep m May, there are fucK cold nigjits in
this month, that it freezes again, and wijl bear
walking over. This is a clear j^oof of the in-
tenleneis of thp froft here, eipecially when one
confiders that which I (hall mention immediate-
llyaiter, aboyt the ebbing and flowing of the
tide in this river. The grea (eft breadth of the
river at its mouth, is computed, to be twenty-fix
French miles or fevcnty-eight E/?^M . miles,
though the boundary betwc;eri >he ie^ and the
river cannot weU be afcer^i^ecf as ffie latter
gradually lofes itfclf in, and united With the
tormer. Thegreateft partof the water contain-
€din the numerous lak.. of Canada, four or

* Meaning %r/^,f.

five

il

If

II I

\ H

\a

■ii I'

1 1-

m

fen^e of Mrlhich *dre like large Teas, is forced tol
idifelnbdga^* into the fca by tudans of this river
ttlfiWt. The-iyayigation up tfiis river from thfc
fca is re»dered very dangerous- by the ftrength of
theciirrertt> a^d by the number of fand-banks,
which often arife inplaces where they never were
"before. T^b^ £^j^//;)5J> have -experienced thisfor-
taiatioh df new fands oncfr or twice, when the?
ftttempted ' to -ijoaquer Canada, Hence the
^perich hfiv>6' good reaforw to look upon the river

diiiTfrE-itifc'goes far beydttd %-i$<?^ in the riverj
'^k Lawenc^J as I h^Ve mentioned above,!
Vhe differetjee' between high and low water is |
Jfeneraliy-'b^ween fifteen and fixteen feet,
French trteufut«e 5 but with the new and fulli
teoon, and v^^hen the wihdis likewifc favourablej
the difFcreftce is feven^teen or eighteen feet, which'
as indeed very confiderable* ^

Augf^ft '*fih, ' Qinfeng is the current Fr^»c^
limncin Canada, of a plant, the root of which
4ias a very great value in China f. It has been
]grawing finee times tomemoria! in the C/iinefei
^Tariaty znd in Ccrtea, ^htrerit is annually col-
^eded and brought 10 China. Father Du Ha!it\

. ^ ^he n^erS^- takvntrce -was »o raort Ja barrier to the vie.
loriot^s JSf/>^ fleets in the lall war, nor vvcre the fortifications cf j
!^eifc cajpaSle to witliftand the gallant attacks of their land army,
wich dihppoiMed tkc'^d Frtnchmen xnCanada of their too fan-
^oine expc^aUons; <and> at preferit, they are rather happy at this
change of fortune, which has made them fubjeds of the Britijh
Iceptre, who^e mild ihfluente tlrey at pn^fent enjoy. F.

*t Botaoiibr know this plant by the name of Panfx quinquifel'mi
foliis ternatis quinatis Linn. Mat. Med. § ii6. 8p. plant, p. i^.
12. Gronov. Fl. Firg. p. 147. See likewife Catefiyh Nat. Hift.
ofCarolina, Vol. 111. p. 16. t. vS. Laffitau Ginf. ^\. t. i. Father
<«W/fi'«jfJiift. de la Nouvelle France, Tom. IV. p. 308. fig*
Xiil. and i om. v. p. 24.

7 %d

.(

^eh€C.^'

271

feys, It is the dfioft f rdcious, mA the inoft ufcful
of all the plaintsr in ^ftern Tartary, and attfafts,
every year, a ftiKJiber of pfop^e-into the deferts of
that counitry. '^Ut Mantechtmx-i'artars C2\\ it
Orhota, that is thomoft noblei>^or the queen of
plants, ^ht^Hftars mi GMnefe^t2ii[Q it very
much, and afcribe to it the powcrof euring feveral
dangerous diicafes, and that of reftoi^rng to the
body neVi^ ftrengtb, ^and ftippfying the lofs caufed
by the exertion of the tnenttfl, tthd corporeal facul-
ties. An oQnce of Ginfeng ^it^ts the fuiprizing
price of feven off eight ounces of aver at Pe^in?
When the French botanifts in Canada ^rii hvr
I figure of It, they rcmem-bei-ed' -to havefeen a
fimilar plant in- this coahtry* Tlicy werexoh-
firmed m th©Fr cOBJedurc by coi^fidering that
feveral fctflefnents m Canada, Iv iinder the fame
kitode with thofe parts of the 0////?^ Tartaty
and C/zw^, where the true- €/«/p;)^ grows wHd'
They fucGeed;edirt their attempt, and found the
fame Gtnfeng wiJd a«d aburidatttiiii feveral pafrs
oWorth^Amema, both in French znA Emit fk
t)Iantations, m plain parts of the woods.' It is
fond df (h^de. and of a d^ep -rich:, ,„ould, and
ot land which Js neither wet nor high ft Is
not every where very common, for fometiitie^
one may fearch the woods for the fp^ce of Ye^
veral miles without finding afioc^le plant of' ir
but in thofe /pots where it grows it is -ai^i;
found m great abundance. It flowers irt wiy
and June, and its berries are ripe at the entj of
Tr u y^^'^ tranfplanting very wel},^d
J^ill loon thrive m its new ground. Some people
here, who have gathered the berries, and put
-cm into iiiCir kirchen-gardens, told me that

th

ey

m

\\

^\.

f. I

u

■l!

•' i\

I •:j f

I hi

Mi

• I'.

i !

\ ■ \ A 1

Auguji 174^.

they lay one or two years in the grdund witli
put coming up* The IrQquafe, or Five (Sixli
Nations, eg)! the QinJ^ng roots Quranttoml
which it is faid fignifies a child, the roots bearing
a faint rcfcmblan^e to it: but others arc opinion
that they mean thf thigh aod leg by it, and the
roo^s look pretty like it. The French ufe this
root for curing the afthma, as a ftomachic, and
to promote Uxx\\\x^ in woipen. The trade
which is carried on with it here is very brifk;
for they gather great quantities of it, and fend
them to France, from whence they are brought
to China^ and fold there to great advantage*.
It is faid the merchants in Frame met with
amazing fuccefs in tliis trade at the firft outfet,
but by continuing to fend the Qinfeng over to
China, its price is fallen confiderably there, and
confequently in France and Canada-, however^
<^cy ftill find their account in it. In the fum-
merof 1748, a pound of Qinfeng^iA fold for
fix Francs, or Liyi?fs, at ^^«:i but its com*
mon price, here i^ one hundcred Sols, or five
Vyrcs-. jp«ring^ f|>jr ikzy in Canada, all the
merchants H $j^dgc aqd Afp^/r^^?/ received or-
ders Uofxx th^ir correfpondeots in France to fend
over a quantity, of Gtnfeng, there being an un-
common demand for it this fummer. The roots
were according;lj^ colleaed in Canada mih all
poffiblc diligence J the Indians efpecially travel-
led about the country in order tocollcdt as much
as they could together, and to felljt to the

• Mr. OAeci feemes to doubt whether the EurefieaKt rtzp m
advantage, rrom the GJn/ing trade or not, bccaufc the CW.da
not value the CW« roots io much as thofe of the Chintfiramrn
and therefore the former bear fcarce half the price of the latter.
Sec OJhitk s Voya^i to China, Vol. I. p. 225. F.

merchants

merchants at Mmndl. The IM-axi"tn th^
neighbourhood of this town ^^i^Z^G^
much ■ taken np with tfti. bufineft \h»t tl.

plant of7t to be fomd, fa effeaually have thev

L Thl^Jr '°°"- After the A^,W have
lift ȣ"* '"o'** W th^'iri^chiints. the laiter
"f '*=,/ g'-Mf ae«l of pins with them
They antfTpread on th^fto^ t6 Z, which
iommo«Jy require, twb rtdnihi anRS.
according as the feafch ft^vet brX -*n^'°'

cqua,nted ^i.h the a/^./methorf^Fj^ 3
"■However u is thought aoftgft'aihi E?

p^ditg ;:;^^, °^^^ Mr 0>.i.. afler,!o„. Sec A.

Tr_ - T r

ratloni

'I if 1^ I

I III

','

lit

if

m

m

'<, .

;

t

1 ?*'■■■

■

li.i

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^i^

i: i

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. '^ I m

57f

Augiift 1749.

\

i.fii. .1:.

'«

rations they dip the roots in a decodion of the
leaves of Ginjeng. The roots prepared by the
Chinefe are almoll tranfparent, and look like
horn in thcinfidej and the roots , which are fit
for ufe, mufl be heavy and compa_dt in the in-

The plant which thrpughout Canada bears
the name of* Jicrba capillaris is likewife one of
thoie with which a great trade is carried on in
Canada. The Englijh in their plantations call it
Maiden'hair\ it grows in all their North- Ame*
rican colonies, which I travelled through, and
likewife in the fouthern parts oi Canada \ but I
never found it near ^ebec. It grovys in the
woods in fhady places and in a good foil *.
Several people in Albany and Canada, aflured
me that its leaves were very much ufed inflead
of tea, in confumptions^ coughs, and all kinds
of pedoral difeales, This they have learnt
from i\\t Indians, who have made ufe of this
plant for thefe purpofes fince times immemorial.
This American maiden-hair is reckoned prefer-
able in furgery to that which we have in £«-
rope'\} and therefore they fend a great quantity
of it to Fraftte, every year. The price is dif-
ferent, arid regulated according to the goodnefs
of the plant, the care in preparing it, and the
quantity which is to be got. For if it be
broujght to ^ueiec iii grieat abundance, the price

-^-t

*itiii^jMmm'jieJ^iiikofl^iJiK,tp. pi. p. 1557. Car.
auttts, in his Canadenf, plant, hijioria, p. 7. calls it Adiantum Ami-
ricanumt and gives together with the defcription, a figure of it^
p. 6.

f Mianfum Capillus Vut$ris, True Maiden-hair.

fallsi

\t]n

^eicc.

Ays

■» !

falls; and on the contrary h rifes when ,h.

found ^rt "t ;'^"" ^^' """* "f"'"" '^'^ =»
about ,huT^ /^i-^^/ went into the woods

TJwhi^3,ts^-^trt7oti^

fuffers greatly from woris. Onion TXl

Se;^Te^77tS"\^sr.';^^^^^

Tpv^r..! f ' /. ^^^' ^^«y l»kew fe plant

£^ T^i?; fS' ;^^f ''. ^^"^''^' -""i

„f7-.TV .'^"cumbers. They have plenty

town in abundance, and ufed chiefly in winter
farfneps are fometimes eaten, though noTverv
common. Few people took notice ol- pot toe?

tSrt:^! ^ref;;j^^f -«

a&ed why thev d« „„7" '''^ ^''^^'^ here are
anrwer thft /h^^catorfind^'a"; rS^'th '^^

1 cabLaJ wfe ="• ^-f -^-<^«v. the
-"known tf the ^t^XtJ^^i^

* This is fl l-;«J -.f i_i. *.:tj«i\0 -fH n^

which grow out above 'the^'^'' ^'f"^ l"^^ '^""^ "'^^^^ 'o^'^. '
turnep-cabbaee V^,° J ^a/^T"! ^^''"'" " ^J^^" from he

Jn ha!y. '.y^nmon in Gfr,77fl;jj-, and ihc former likewi/e

cm

ployed

H

ij n

Ndfl

1:^

;! '1

',!

■ i

ii

I fill

M:l

76.

Augufi 1749.

ill

Ml

'i\'

employed in Towing and planting kitctcn herbs
in Canadut and have had Tome experience ia
gardening* told mc that they were obliged to
lend for frcfh feeds^ from France every year, bc-
caufe they Qorpcnonly lofc their ftrcngth here
in the third generation^ and do not produce
fuch plants as woold eqCial the original ones in
tafte and goodnefs.

T\ii^ P^uropeans have never been able to find

any chara<^er6, much lefs writings, or books,

among the Indians, who have inhabited Norths

America {incG time immemoriaU and fecm to be

all of one nation, and fpeak thb fame language.

Thefe Indians have therefore lived in the greatcft

ignorance and darknefa, during fome centuries,

and are totally unacquainted with the flate of

their country before the arrival of the Euro--

peans, and all thcic knowledge of it coofifts in

vague traditions, and mere fables^ ,. It is .not

certain whether any other nations poflcllbd /ime-

rica, before the prelent Indian inhabitants came

into it, qr. whether any other nations Hifited this

part of the, .gloj^e before Columbus difcovered

it. It, is , equally unknown,- whether the ChriJ-

tian religion was ever preached here in former

times,. 1 converfed with feveral Jefuits, who

uilde^toak lypg journies in this ex '•'' 'e country,

and afk^i theip, whether thev had rrjet wit*

any mafks that theje had formerly been feme

Chr-ifiians ani.ong the Indians, which lived here?

but they all anfwered, they had not found

The Indians have ever been as ignorant

oi rcfiiudiure and manual labour as of fcicnce
jjnd writing. In vain does one (eek for well

biiill" tr\ttino nr\A V\.-\\\Ctae* n w'r t i\ r- 1 ni tr\rt\x-tnr\tir\r\i.

- • ' ■ high

%^<f<r.

^77

iendcJ for the fir#. «!-,.,- • ."'";"= i^^ct in-
. '"'^ "^"c nrc-place in it. Traveller*! r^/^

colours to itfelf. We can enjoy none of thefe

tf:i:v:^:T j^hiiii^ry o;.he cit

hl'nl 1 '•'•'/"'•^/^''^J for every thing that
St if'' ""^l P"'''' '^^ «o- "ike a
happened InT' '• *" \"^ '^'"^ 'hat really
Si f ''"*^"•n« there have, however,
been found a few marks of antiquity, from which

Sv inTir-f "A'- "'^ ^-'^^«-^ was

Uence, and more c vilified, if--" ♦'- --^ ■

^ 3 the

Ml

J ]' ■' I

•" = f,

lji:-j|i'

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(m1

u

M ;'i

178

'Augufi 1749-

C'l" II'

I

P

the Europeans found on thoir arrival here ; or
that a great military expedition was undertaken
to this continent, from thefe known parts of the
"world.

This is confirmed by an account which I re-
ceived from Mr. de Verandrieri^^ who has com-
nianded the expedition to the fonth-fea in per--
fon, of which! (hall prefently give an account.
1 have heard it repeated by others, who have
been eye-witneffes of every thing that happened
on that occaiion. Some years before I came in-
to Canada, the then governor-general, Chevalier
de Beauharnoh, gave Mr. de Verandrier an order
to go froni Canada, with a number of people, on
an expedition acrofs North- j'merica to the fouth-
fea, in order to examine how far thofe two places
are diftant from each other, and to find out what
advantages might accrue to Canada, or Louijiana,
from a communication with that ocean. They
fet out on horfeback from Montreal, and went
as much due weft as they could, on account of
the lakes, rivers, and mountains, which fell in
their way. As they came far into the country,
beyond many natlono, they ibmetimes met with
large trades of land free from wood, but covered
wifh a kind of very tall grafs, for the fpace of
fome days journey. Many of thefe fields were
every where covered with furrows, as if they
bad been ploughed and fown formerly. It is
to be obfcrved, that the nations, which now in-
habit Norths America, could not cultivate the
land in this manner, becaufe they never made

iiTf* r\^ Jiorrpc. r\^ex\. nlnnaVis. nr flnv inftrnmentS

of hufbandry, nor had they ever fccn a plough

before

before the Europeans came to xhtm
three places, at a confid
other, Our travellers r

279

In two or
erable diftance from each

- o, g,ow„ people Ltthl^rent": It'

mtiirce. When they came far to the w^/1

««, or £«r«/^^„. had ever been, they found in
one place ,n the woods, and again on alr^e
plain, great pillars of ftone. leaning upon ead.

'£.' l^t'^: fT''""'" «'"''^ -' b„t1-uppo7e!
hat they had been erefted by human hand/

Sometimes they have found fuch ftones laid upon
one another, and, as it were, formed into a wall
In fome of thofe places where they found fu h

JonT %Z r" "°V'^"'^ -y ofher fortrof

though they have made a very careful fearch
after them. At laft they met with a large ftone
I'ke a pdlar. and in it a fmaller ftone was fixed

charaders. This ftone, which was about a foot

W^meafure in length, and between fou

r fi c mches broad, they broke loofe, and car-

fent to W, to ,he fecr«ary of ftate, the count
<^lMaurepas. What became of it after.vards is
unknown to them, but they think it is yet pre-
ferved ■„ h,s colledtion sLeral of the^Jef i

unanimoufly afiirm, that the lette

rz on It

are the fame with thofe which m the boo'k

con-

M -I

\ ;

i '

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containirvg accounts oi'Tatana, are called Tata^
w«charad:ers *; and that, on comparing both
together, they found ihem pcrfe^ly alike. Not-

* This accoant feems to be highly probable, for we find in
Marco Paolo that Kublai-Khan^ one of the fucceflbrs oi Genghizkhany
after the cotiquell of the fouthcrn part of China, fent (hips out to
conquer the Kingdom oi Japan^ or, as they call it, Nipan-gn^ but
in a terrible ftorm the whole fleet was caft away, and nothing was
ever heard of the men in that fleet. It feems that feme of thefe
fliips were caft > the fliorcs, oppofite the great Atnirican lakes, be-
tween forty and fifty degrees north latitude, and there probably
erefted thcfe monunients, and were the ancefiors of fome nations
who are called Mozow/zri/, and have fome degree of civilization.
Another part of this fleet, it feems, xeached the country oppofite
Mexico^ and there founded the Mexican empire, wh.ch, according
to their own records as preferved by the Spaniards, and in their
painted annals in Purchases Pilgrimage^ are very recent ; fo that
they can fcarcely remember any more than feven princes before
Metczuma II. who was reigning when the Spaniards arrived there,
15 1 9, under Fernando Ccrtez; confequently the firft of thefe princes,
fuppofing each had a reign of thirty-three years and four months,
and adding to it the fixteen years of Motezuma, began to reign in
the year 1 270, when Kublai-Khati^ the conqueror of all China and
of "japany was on the throne, and in whofe time happened, I be-
lieve, the firft abortive expedition to Japan^ which I mentioned
above, and probably furnifned North-America with civilized inha-
bitants. There is, if I nm not miflaken, a great fimilarity between
the figures of the Mexican idols, and thofe which are ufual among
the Tartars, who embrace the doArines and religicn of the Daldi-
Lama, whofe religion Kublai-Khan firft introduced among theMfla-
gtdsi or Moguls. The favage Indians of North- America, it feems,
have another origin, and are probably defcended from the Tukag-
hiri, and Tchucktchai, inhabitants of the moft eafterly and norther,
ly part of AJia, where, according to the accounts of the Ruffians,
there is but a fmall trajeft to America. The ferocity of thefe na-
tions, fimilar to that of the Americans, their way of painting, their
fondnefs of inebriating liquors, (which the Tukaghiri prepare from
poifonoiis and inebriating raufnrooms, bought of the Rujftans) and
many other things, fhow them plainly to be of the fame origin. The
E'l'imaux feems to be the fame nation v.'ith the inhabitants of Gw«-
land, the Samoyedes, and Lappcnians. Scuth-America, and efpccially
Peru, is probably peopled from the great unknown fouth continent,
which is very near America, civilized, and full of inhabitants of
various colours ; who therefore might very eafily be caft on the
Aiturican continent, in boats, or proast F.

■ •■■ ■ *. •' • ' with-

vvrthAanding the qucftions which ih^ French on
the louth-fca expedition aiked the people there
concerning the time when, and by whom thofc
pillars were ereded ? what their traditions and
fentiments concerning them were ? who had
wrote the charaders ? what was meant by them ?
what kind of letters they were ? in what Ian-
guage they were written ? and other circum-
fiances ; yet they could never get the leafl: ex-
plication, the Indians being as ignorant of all
there things as th^ French thcmfclvcs. All thev
could fay was, that thcfe ftones had been in tholb
places time immemorial The places where
the pillars flood were near nine hundred French
miles weftward of Montreal, The chief inten-
tion of this journey, viz. to come to the fouth^
fea, and to examine its diftance from Canada
was never attained on this occafion. For the
peop e fent out for that purpofe, were induced
to take part in a war between fome of the moft
diftant Indian nations, in which feme of the
French were taken prifoners, and the reft oblig-
ed to return. Among the laft and moft wefter-
ly/«^/^;2x they were with, they heard that the
fouth-fea was but a few days journey off, that
they (the Indians) often traded with tht Spani-
ards on that coaft, and fometimes likewife they
went ioHudfon's Bay, to trade with the En^lifh.,
borne of thefe Indians had houi'es, which were
made of earth. Many nations had never feea
any Frenchmen-, they were commonly clad in
ikins, but many were quitti naked.

All thofft who Irirl iv>^ri/=» 1^ : •-- • r>

— -- '='-•••-» inoUv, ivvij^juuniivjs in u^-

nada to the fouth, but chiefly weftward, .agreed

that

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Auguji 1749.

that there were many great plains dcftltute of
trees, where the land was furrowed, as if it had
been ploughed. In what manner this happen-
ed no one knows ; for the corn-fields of a great
village, or town, of the Indians, arc fcarce above
four or fix of our acres in extent -, whereas thofe
furrowed plains fometimes continue for fevcral
days journey, except now and then a fmall
fmoolh fpot, and here and there fome rifing
grounds.

I COULD not hear of any more veftiges of an-
tiquity in Canada, notwithftanding my careful
enquiries after theiii. In the continuation of my
journey, for the year 1750 *, I {hall find an op-
portunity of fpeaking of two other remarkable
curiofities. Our Sivedijh Mr. George Wejiman,
A. M. has clearly and circumflantially fliewn
that our Scandinavians , chiefly the northern
ones, long before Columbus'^ time, have under-
taken voyages to IS! orth- America ; fee his differ-
tation on that fubjcdt, which he read at Aba in
1747, for obtaining his degree.

Augujl 8th. This morning I vifited the
largeil nunnery in ^tebec. Men are prohibited
from vifiting under very heavy punishments j ex-
cept in fome rooms, divided by iron rails, where
the men and women, that do not belong to the
convent, (land without, and the nuns within the
rails, and converfe with each other. But to en-
creafe the many favours which the French na-
tion heaped upon me, as a Swede, the governor-
general ^Qi the bifhop's leave for me to enter

This part has not yet been publUhed.

tk

^ehec.

283

the^convent, and fee its conftniaion. The b?-
Ihep alone has the power of granting this fa-
vour, but he does it very fparingly. The royal
phyfician, and a furgeon, are however at liberty
to go in as often as they think proper. Mr. GauL
thter, a man of great knowledge in phyfic and
botany, was at prefent the royal phyfician here,
and accompanied me to the convent. We firft
faw the hofpital, which I (liall prefently de-
fcribe, and then entered the convent, which
forms a part of the hofpital. It is a great build-
ing of ftone, three (lories high, divided in the
infide into long galleries, on both fides of which
are cells, halls, and rooms. The cells of the
nuns are in the higheft ftory, on both fides of
the gallery ; they are but fmall ; not painted ia
the infide, but hung with paper pidures of faints,
and of our Saviour on the crofs. A bed with
curtains, and good bed-clothes, a little narrow
dcfk, and a chair or two, is the whole furniture
of a cell. They have no fires in winter, and
the nuns are forced to ly in the cold cells. Oa
the gallery is a ftove, which is heated in winter
and as all the rooms are left open, fome warmth
can by this means come into them. In the
middle ftory are rooms where they pafs the dav
together. One of thefe is the room where they
are at work ; this is large, finely painted and
adorned, and has an iron ilove. Here they were
at their needle^work, embroidering, gilding, and
making flowers of lilk, which bear a great fi mi-
larity to the natural ones. In a word, they were
all employed in fuch n'lcp wnrlrc oc „,^jL r..:*
able 10 ladies of th

eir rank in life. In anoth

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hall they aflembled to hold their juntos. An,
other apartment contains tho(e who are indiipof.|
cdj but fuch as arc more dangcroufly ill havel
rooms to themfelvcs. The novices, and new!
comers, are taught and inftruifted in another hall.
Another is deftincd for their refc(flory, or din-
ing-room, in which are tables on all fides j on
one fide of it is a fmall defk, on which is laid
a French book, concerning the life of thofcj
faints who are mentioned in the New Tcfta-
ment. When they dine, all are filent ; one ofl
the elde/1: gets into the defk, «nd reads a part of
the book before-mentioned ; and when they arc
gone through \x, they read fome other religious
book. During the meal, they fit on that fide of
the table which is turned towards the wall.
Almofl: in every room is a gilt table, on which
are placed candles, together with the pifture of
our Saviour on the crofs, and of fome faints:!
before thefc tables they fay their prayers. On
one {\Aq is the church, and near it a large gal-
Jery, divided from the church by rails, fo that
the nuns could only look into it. In this gal-
lery they remaio daring divine fervice, and the
clergyman is in the church, where the nuns
reach him his facerdotal clothes through a hole,
for they are ViO% allowed to go into the ve,(l:ry,|
and to be in the^ fame room with the prieft.i
There are fHl] feveral other rooms and halls
here, the ufe of which I do not remember.]
The lowefi: ftory contains a kit? hen, bake-houfe,
feveral butteries, ^c. In the garrets they keep!
their corn, and dry their linen. In the middlcj
ftory is a balcony, on the outfide, almoft rQurndj
. . the

^ehec.

28^

\k whole building, where the nuns are allowed
to take air. The profpedt from the convent is
wry fine on every fide; the river, the fields, and
he meadows out of town, appear there to great
advantage On one fide of the convent is a
large garden, m which the nuns are at liberty
to walk about; it belongs to the convent, and
,s furrounded with a high wall. There is a
huantity of all forts of fruits in it. This con-
vent, they fay,, contains about fifty nuns, mod
of them advanced in years, fcarce any being un-
dcr forty years of age; At thi^ time there were
jvojoung ladies amofig the«i who were in-
llrua-ed in thofe things which belong to the
bowiedge of nuns- They are iiot allowed to
become nuns immediately after their entranced-
hut tnuft pafs through a noviciateof two of three
years, in order to try whether they will be con--
itaot. For, during that time, it is in ^heif '
power to leave the convent, if a momftic lift-
dpcs not fuit their inclinations, Birt as foon as '
they are received amor^g th^^^nqns, -a^d have
bade their vow8> they. are obliged to contirnse
t cirwhote hfe^ift it? if they appear willing to
change their mode of life,, they are locked u'lyi
ii;:a.rioGm, from whence they caai n^v^r g^t.outl^^
JThe n«ns of this <ion vent never- ^Qfarthsr, front ^
irthan to the hofpital, which,Mefr'he»r i^. and"
e«enmakes^a.partofit. They^:^.kfc to at^:^
tenltbe fick, .and- to take Care <ir^ tpoiVi./ I wi§'4
t(rid by feveral people hcre^ fom6 ©f^vvlilch Wdr^' ^
ladies, that none of the nun« weht Int^ a -con- -
|vent, till (he had attained to an^oin which (h^
'- imaii hopes of ever getting a hufband. The

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296

^i^guj 1749.

nuns of all the three consents m ^ehec looked
very old, by which it fecms that there is fbmci
foundation for this account.
trTHB hofpital, a? I have before-mentioned
tnakes a part of the convent. It confifts of two
large halls, and fome rooms near the apothecary's
Ihop. In the halls are two rows of beds on each
fide, within each other. The beds next to the
wall are furnilhed with curtains, the outward
ones are withdut them. In each bed -ire jfine
hed-clothes, with clean double (hcets. As foort
as a fick perfon has left his bed, it is made again,
in order to keep the hofpital in cleanlinefs and
order. The beds are two or three yards diftant,
^d near each is a fmall table. There are good
iron ftoves, and fine windows, in this hall. The
nuns attend the iick people, and bring them
mcati and other neceflaries. Befides them there
are fome men who attend, and a furgeon. The
royal phyfician is likewife obliged to come hither,
once or twice every day, to look after everything,
and give prefcriptions. They commonly receive
iick foldiers into this hofpital, who are verynu-
naerous in July and Auguji, when the king's j
(hips arrive, and in time of war. But at other
times, when no great number of foldiers are fick,
other people can take their places, as far as the
number of empty beds will reach. The king
finds every thing here that is requifite for the fick
perfons, viz. provifions, medicines, fewel, &c.
Thofe who are very ill are put into feparate
rooms, in order that the noife in the great hall
inay not be troublcfome to them.

8

The

^ebcc^

287

The civility of the inhabitants here is more
refined than that, pf the Dutch and £»fM, ia
ihcfcttlcments belonging iQ Great Britain ; but
the latter, on the other hand, do not idle their
time away in drefliog, as the French do here.
The ladies, cfpecially, drefs and powder their
haircvery^day, and put their locks in papers evey
night; which idle cuftom was not introduced
10 the Enghjh fettlements. ^he gentlemen
wear generally their own hair; but fome have
wigs. People,; of rank are yfcd to wear laced
cloaths, and all the crown-pfficers wear fwords.
All the gentlemen, even thofe of rank, the go-
vernor-general excepted, when they go in,
to town on a day that looks like rain, carry
their cloaks op their left arm. Acquaintances
of either fex, who have not feen each other for
fome timq, on meeting again falute with mutual
kiufs. ...

^Concerning the Canada plants, I can hers
add, that the further you go northward, the
more you jind^the .pUnts are the fame with
ibe ^«;?</{^ opes ; thus, on the north fide of
Imbec. a fourth part of the plapts, if not more,
are the fame with the fpontaneous plants in
Sweden. A,few plants and trees, which hav?
aparticular quality, or are applied to fome par-

The Rem-deer Mofs (Lichen ranglfirinus)

grows plentiful in .lie woods :o^^nA%ebec.

M. Gaulthier. and feveral other gentlemen, told

me. that the French, on their Jong journies

M^,4 s,..^ \rvvUi,, wu iiLwguflic or ttieir tur

trade

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288

jiuguft 1759.

trade with the Iftiita»s, fomeiim^s boil this mofs
and drink tlie dccodtion, for want of better fbod
when their proviiiuns afc at an end ; and they
fay it is very mUfittve. Several Frenchmen,
who have been in the Terra Labrador, where
there are many rein-deer (whbh thQ French and
Indians here call CaribouxJ related^ that al! the
land there is in t»olt places covered with this
rein-deer mofs, fo that the ground looks as
white as fnow, ^- "

• Auguji loth. This day I din«d with the
Jefuits. A few days before, \ paid my vifit ta
them J and the next day their prefident, and
another father Jefiiit, called on me, to invite
me to dine with them to-day, I attended divine
fervice in their church, which is a part of their
houfe. It is very fine within, though it has no
feats-, for every one is obliged to kneel down
during the fervice. Above the church is a
fmall fteeple, with a clock. The building the
Jefuits live in is magnificently built, and looks
exceeding fine, both withi)ut and vvithin;
which gives it a fimilarity to a %X\t palace; It
confifts of (lone, is three ftories high» exclusive
of the garret covered witb flates, and built in a
fquaro fornit lik€ the new palace at ^ioch
^i>/M?, irtcludinfg a large court., fts. fize isfach;
that three hundred families would find room
enough in it; though at prefent there were not
above twenty Js>fuits in it. Sometimes there is
a much greater number of them, efpeclally
when thofe return, who have been fent as mif-
ftonaries into the country. There is a lon^

^eiet,

ftdp

tl' ^^^ ''''" <''■ -'"■•^h «« «'thcr cell,
Every .hinl Is i^ J'^' tP^'he^ry-ftop. &c.

which ft^d w'e wh. L""r'°^" "^'f^^^ft

build th, towh Th u*'" f '■/"'* ''=g»" '°

number of St treP'^ 5'^ ^'^'^'' P'^"'«<1 =*
with all f„r»'r ,'/"'* the garden is ftocked
mm all torts of plants for the ufe of the kitchen
The Jefuus dine together in a great hall Th!
are tables nIafP/1 oil '■• great naij. 1 here

ut S'V" •"*" '° '■"'1 ^o'n« religious book?

%ie wotn ''Ir" '";'^"s y°" ''° -' ^=

-he la ter of which '''' ^'"'"'' "' '"•'"'*'=«'

y^nere, by vvay of proverb, that a h „.>,,» ,-'
"u.uent to iketch out - --'.<;- " " ■'.";■"" '^

u

recol;

prieft

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29^

Auguft 1749.

not be made without a chliTcl ; but a Jduit ab.
folutely requires the pencil* j to fliew how
much one furpafles the others. The Jefuits arc
commonly very learned, ftudious, and are very
civil and agreeable in company. In their whole
deportment there is Ibmething pleafing j it is no
wonder therefore thai they captivate the minds
of the people. They fcldom Ipeak of religious
matters; and if it happens, ihey generally avoid
difputes. They are very ready to do any one a
fervice; and when they fee that their afliftanceis
wanted, they hardly give one time to fpeak of it,
falling to work immediately, to bring about what
is required of them. Their converfation is very
entertaining and learned. To that one cannot be
tired of their company. Among all the Jefuits
I have converfed with in Canada, I have not
found one who was not polFefTed of thefe qualities
in a very eminent degree. They have large
poffelTions in this country, which the French
king gave them. At Montreal they have like-
wife a fine church, and a little neat houfe, with
a fmall but pretty garden within. They do not
care to become preachers to a congregation in
the town or country ; but leave thefe places,
together with the emoluments arifing from
them, to the priefts. All their bufinefs here is
to convert the heathens ; and with that view
their miffionaries are fcattered over every part of|
this country. Near every town and village,.
' peopled by converted Indians, are one or two

• Pourfai't iin recoki ilfaut urn hacbetttt pour un pretre un c'lJmA
tr.ais pour un "Jefuitt ilfaut un pinceau,

JeluitJ,

^'ififC.

29 f

to do "VP'S"":''"' l'"' I've as chrifti'ns ou.hc

nad! 4^' ^""^ ^'- ^'"'"' ^"'1 "" over Ca-
nada. There are likpu/ic^ T.r •• -/r- •
with thoff^ ,;i,h^ I'KewiIc Jcfuit m.ffionaries

wun tnofe who are not converted ; ^o thit ther^
J rr;'^ a Jeruit in every vilia : be !.!>! .

, ^^ convert. .Jn winter he 2oes on th^-Ir
great hunts, where he is i^.c^^.n^o^-^^Z
1,1' '". '"'"S'^'We inconvenienciesj fuch as

V at Lr.L"V ;'"" °"' ''""' ■'" g"°d and Ld
w ether . I • 'T "°' '^"S"*^'"? ""^ kind of
rJarm wiS;'"/ '" "'? ^»'^'« h"'^. which of,e„
nvarnj with fleas and other vermin &c Tl,«

teafons Vh I r^' '""' ''k^w-fc for political

k ne for I •'''^';'' ''■' °'^ g^"' "<"« '° their
King for they are frequently able to perfuade

to ilr' '° '''"'' "^^■''- '^"'y ^vith the m!

0 r P ^^l "P°." '''^'"' '" brin? their fur

to the Fr^«f^, and not to permit the £/;r//r.o

I aVor th "''r"P''^ ^°^ "''^" '^' ^"dZ"^
ties whl^K ' 7 (°"'""n« kill the miffiona-

ifed thtf " T^ 'P'"^ "'■^' "^'^^'■-'^-
rhL • ^"^^"^ »'•= accordinPly the

rtief occupations of the Jefuits here TlL t

, ,..a lu^nx go iii proceiiions in re-
^ mem-

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292 -^^"Ji 1749'

membrance of the Virgin Mary, and other faintJ*
They feWom go into a houfe in order to get
meat ; and iLaugh they be invited, they do not
like to ftay, except ihey be on a journey. Every
body fees, that they are, as it were, feledted
from the other people, on account of their fupe-
rior genius and qualities* They arc here rec-
koned a moft cunning fct of people, who gene-
rally fucceed in their undertakings, and furpafs
all others in acutenefs of underftanding. I have
therefore feveral times obferved that they have
enemies in Canada. They never receive any
others into their fociety, but perfons of very
promifing parts ; fothat there are no blockheads
among them. On the other hand, the p-iefts
receive the beft kind of people among their order
they can meet with; and in the choice of
monks, they are yet lefs careful. The Jefuits
who live here, are all come from France 5 and
many of them return thither again, after a ftay
of a few years here. Some (five or fix of which
are yet alive) who were born in Canada^ went
over to France, and were received among the
Jefuits there; but none of them e-ver came back
to Canada, I know not what politioal reafon
hindered them. During my ftay in ^ebec, one
of the priefts, with the bifliop's leave, gave
up his pfiefthood, and beoame a Jefui*. The
other priefts were very ill pleafed with this, be-
caufe it feemed as if he looked upon their con-
dition as too mean for himfelf. Thofc congre-
gations in the country that pay rents to the
Jefuits, have, however, divine fervice performed
by priefts, who are appointed by the bilhop^;

and

Quebec,

and the land-rent only bel

293

Neither the

priefis

ongs to the Jefuits.

trade v.\fh f' " Tn -^^ J^^"'*^^ ^^''^7 O" any
This afternoon I vifited the building called

with walks ,n It. and rooms on each fide It
" f^eral ftories high, and clofe to it i a fine

hnbs. and divided by wa ks. The nrofnefl-

IZ^IT '''^ '^-ft - ^-^- ThfptS

Jefmt* ,n c.vihty; and therefore I fpent mv
«.me very agreeably in their company/ ^

c Jof Th" I "' '-'^1'°"^ """^ moft numerous
clals of the clergy ,n this country; for mod of

.hechurches. both in towns and villages (the

A few of them are iikewife miffionaries. In
Canada are two>„Wn«; one in 9uekc. the
other in M,«.,./. The priefts of ,^ fem „ 'y

f pply only the congregation on the ifle of Mont-

to th. i ? r '" ^''"'"^''- '^' P"^ft« ''^longing
0 the |«.^,cfem,nary oiSciate. *^The former, of

anXeofr T "^"''"^ ''^^ they never fuffer
a wtive of a„«</a to come among them. In the

fon.n.^y at ^..^.. the natives !fCanadaZ2l
.trni:^::':./l°^^r_'°«''X-hildrenof

U

where the youth

s are

taught

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294 '^^ig^'J^ 1749-

taught Lath, 2nd inftrudcci in the knowledge
of thofe things and fcicnccs, which have a more
immediate connexion with the bufinefs they arc
intended for. However, they are not very nice
in their choice ; and people of a middling capa-
city are often received among them. They do not
feem to have made great progrcfs in Latin \
for notwithftanding the fervice is read in that
language, and they read their Latin Bre-
viary, and other books, every day, yet mod
of them found it very difficult to fpeak it.
All the priefts in the ^ebec feminary are con-
fecrated by the bifliop. Both the feminaries
have got great revenues from the king; that in
^lebec has above thirty thoufand livres. All the
country on the weft fide of the river St, Law-
rencBy from the town of ^lebec to bay St. Paul,
belongs to this feminary, befides their other
pofTelTions in the country. They leafe the land
to the fettlers for a certain rent, which, if it be
annually paid according to their agreement,
the children or heirs of the fettlers may remain
in an undifturbed poffefTion of the lands. A piece
of land, ihrtc arpents ^' broad, and thirty, forty,
or fifty arpents\ov\^, pays annually an ecw^, and
a couple of chickens, or fome other additional
trifle. In fuch places as have convenient water-
falls, they have built water-mills, or faw-mills,
from which they annually get confiderable fums.
The feminary of Montreal pofl:efires the whole
ground on which that town ftands, together
with the whole iile of Montreal, I have been

• A French acre,

•j- A Fnnclj- coin, value about a, (;rown ^ngUJh,

affureJ,

<?>

'ueliec.

95

aflured, that the eround-rpnf r>f ,u .

ifle is comontpH J """" •^^"t °f Ihe town and

fides whaTC /e ^T *''°"'""'d '--' ^ be-
holding eoScfns iJe^P ™''^"" '''*P"^'"g'
funerals, &c All^h ? ^"^ "' marriages and

belong tot re^in H ,Xe"ld'thT""'r"
.he country have no fhare in 'them. 'X'f the

rn:: ff::r'' ^"-'^'^■■"s -'^ °"^' -

prieits, has greater revenues than it can ev

lu rrancty to the chief femjnarv ther*- Tk^ t j
rents belonging to ^^. ^u.h S^^L^.l^l'^t'

- brought „p .o"tr:;dl °7h/s :!::

ve.n the country parishes, get the Lh" from

2s.t£,., .tes^tK
um When a pr.eft ,n the country grows old
d has done good fervices. he I fbmaimes*
ilowed to come into the feminary in town The

wnXer tTi '° ^!^« "^ 'i^-"-" 'h '•
gift of thrbbo^ "'^ "'" P'^^-« -« - -be

in c2r' Th:;\'avV?fi ^'^f °' t^^^--

l,^.,r u -^^ey nave a fine large dweIh"no.

d : n7' '"^ %fi"«'burch. where the of!
He ate. Near jt is a large and i5ne garden v/hich

deavoJ Tn / "' '''''• ^^^y do not en-

"cavour to choofe rnnn;i,rr f.ii...... „

take all they can get. Thev d

affuced, ■ ^fflicfit their brains with mudi

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and

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Auguji 1749,

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I have been aflured, that after they have put on

their monadic habit, they do not fludy to in-

creafe their knowledge, but forget even what

little they knew before. At night they generally

ly on mats, or fome other hard matrafies ; how.

ever, I. Jhave iometimes fecn good beds in the

cells of fome of them. They have no poffeflions

here,, having made vows of poverty, and live

chiefly on the alms which people give them,

To this purpofe, the young monlis, or brothers,

go into the houfes with a bag, and beg what

they want. They have no congregations in the

country, but fometimes they go among the

Indians as miffionarics. In each fort, which

contains forty men, the king keeps one of thefe

monks in (lead of a priefl, who officiates there.

The king gives him lodging, provifions, fer-»

vants and all he wants, befides two hundred

livres a year. Half of it, he fends to the com-.

munity he belongs to; the other half he refcrves

for his.own ufe. On board the king's (liips arc

generally no other pricfts than thefe friars, who

are thexefpre looked upon as people belonging to

the king. When one of the chief priefts* in

the country dies, and his place cannot immedi"

ately, be filled up, they fend one of thefe friars

there, to offiei^ate whilft the place is vacant.

Part of thefe monks come over from France^

and part are natives of Canada, There are no

other mon^s ia Canada ht^id^s thefe, except

now and then .one of the order of St* Aujiin

or fome other, who comes with one of the

}ting*6 (hips, but goes off with it again.

cjisuft^

Jtm

ice IS vacant.

'^ehec.

297

Auguji I nh. This morning I took a walk
out ot town, with the royal phvfician M r ,
ther, i„ order to coIk^pCf^^ot t
nunnery at W diftance from %ebec. Thi!

Itone, J es m a pleafant fpot, furronnded with

men InH K f -'^ °"'^ P"?''^*' ^''^ ■»"' for the

A I u ""S " '" '" ''^<='»'* give them Dbvfic

and take the cloth away when%hey hTve eattn*

eav,ng the reft for male fervants. But in The

Sar:a^:hfrrmea.l".hStl.^^

seneral of rLT ^ GMonniere, governor-

general of Cfl«<;di,, granted we leave to fee this
nunnery hkewife. where «o man is aUowed to
enter, without his leave, which i, ,1 T
fe i-eidom confers on a^'ytdy. "T^'Tbrf:

fee fre o?TKr "/""r" ^^'^ ^^ 'l^^"""'

t ' ^r™°;:- ^'"y "^ 'l^^^ «re old,
tat there are l.kewrfe fomc ve,fy voun- one«

among them, who looked very Veil ^ The„

rn^ n?r '^ tT '""'' "^^ ^'^'^ *-^'
in,h. ."" !7-. ^'^"^ 'eo'ns are the fan>e as
'- .n. .... p.ace, except iome additional furni-

ture

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Augiif. 1749.

tiire in their cells ; the beds are hung with
blue curtains j there are a couple of fmall
bureaux, a table between them, and Ibmc pic-
tures on the wails. There are however no
ftoves in any cell. But thofe halls and rooms,
in which they are airembled together, and in
vi'hich the fick ones ly, are fuppHcd with an
iron (love. The number of nuns is indeterminate
here, and I faw a -uimber of them. Here

are likewife fonie .obationers preparing for
their reception among the nuns. A number of
little girls are fent hither by their parents, to be
inflruded by the nuns in the principles of the
chriftian religion, and in all forts of ladies work.
The convent at a diftance looks Hke a palace,
and, as I am told, was founded by a bifliop,
who they fay is buried in a part of the church.

We botanized till dinner-time in the neigh-
bouring meadows, and then returned to the
convent to dine with a venerable old father
recolet, who officiated here as a prieft. The
difhes were all prepared by nuns, and as nume-
rous and various as on the tables of great men.
There were likewife leveral forts of wine, and
many preferves. The reveni>e& of this monaf-
tery are fa id to be confideraWe. At the top
of the building is a fmall rteeple with a bell.
Confidering the large trads of land which the
king has given in C4<inada to convents, Jejuits^
priefls, and fevcral families of rank, it leems
he has very little left for himfelf.

Our common rafp-berries, are fo plentiful
here on the hills, near corn-fields, rivers, and
brooks, that the branches iook quite red on
. . ' account

'iiebec.

299

wount of the number of berries on them.
They are r.pe about this time, and eaten as a
ieftrt after dinner, both frefl, and preferved.

The Mountain AJh, or Sorb-tree * is pretty
common m the woods hereabouts.

They reckon the north-eaft wind the mod
pierang of all, here. Many of the beft people
kere, affured me, that this wind, when it i.
very violent in winter, pierces through walls of
.moderate thicknefs, fo that the whole wall on
the mfide of the houfe is covered with fnow or
a thick hoar froft, and that a candle pkced
near a thinner wall is almoft blown out by the
wind which continually comes through. This
wind damages the houfes which ar^ built of
tone, and forces the owners to repair them verv
frequently on the north-eaft fide. The north
ind north-eaft winds are likewife reckoned verv
cold here. In fummer the north wind is gene-
taily attended with rain. ^

Jm f^'/?'"=^ i, ,^'™«« between ^eiec
mi Montreal \% on all hands allowed to be verv
great. The wind and weather oi Montreal are
often entirely different from wh^t they are at
> u ; ^^liewinter there is not near fo cold as
in the laft place. Several forts of fine pears will
Igrownear Montreal, but are far from fucceeding
« Y'C, where the froft frequently kills them!
4ebec\i^% generally more rainy weather, fprins
egins later, and winter fooner than at Montreal,
-here all forts of fruits ripen a week or two
earlier than at ^ebec.

* Barbiis aucuparia»

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30<?

Auguji 1749.

I •

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Aug, \ 2th. This afternoon I went out of
town, to (lay in the country for a couple of days,
that I might have more Icjfurc to examine ihe
plants which grow in the woods here, and the
ftate of the country. In order to proceed the
better, thfc governor-general had fent for an In^
dian from Lorettc to fliew us the way, and
teach us what ufe they make of the fpontaneous
plants hereaboutsv This /«<//^«. was an Englijh^
man by birth, laken by the Indians thirty years
ago, when he was a boy, and adopted by them,
according to their cuftoni, inftead pf a relation
of theirs killed by the enemy. Since that time
he conftantly ftayed with them, became a Roman
Catholic and married an Indian woman : he dref-
fes J ike an Indian ^ fpeaks Englijh and French^
and many of the Indian languages. In the wars
between the French and Englifhyin this country,
the French Indians have made many prifoners 0
both fexes in the Englijh plantations, adopted
them afterwards, and thf v married with people
oi the /Wiw« nations. I^i hence the Indian
bJpod in Canada is* very mu^ mixed withEa-
ropean blood, and a great par. ^ the Indiani
now living, ©we th^ir origin to i- ^^ope, hi
likewife remarkable, that a great j. n of tb
people they had taken during the war and incor
porate^ with their nations* efpecially the young]
people, did DOt choofe to return to their nativ
country, though their parents and neareil rela
lions came to (h^l^n and endeavoufed to perfuad
them to it, and though it was in their power t
do it. The licentious life led by the Indians^ pleafi

^A fKpm hptfpp tVian thaf c\( t^pir 'R.urn'hpnn rela

,^,.*3f. tions

I

Hetween ^etec and Lorette. 30 ,

lionS5 they drcflcd like the Indians, and reeu-
/« thcr affairs in their way. It U thfre-
fo-e d.ftcrlt |odifti«guift them, except bv thcl
clour wh.ch.sfo.„ewhat whiter than thltof
he /W;^. There are likewife examples of
toe Fre.uhmen going amongft the 7W««i and
following their way of life. There is on th=
contrary fcarce one inftance of an Mk„\ adopt!
ing the European coftoms ; but thofe who wera
«ken prisoners m the war, have always endea!
vouped to come to their own people again. eve„
.ftcrfcveral years of captivityf and though thej

K .K n" P""'''^" 'hat were evcr^offc!!
fed by the Europeans in ^»,fr/<rtf. ^

The lands, which we paffed over, were everv
where la.d ou, into corn-fields, ^eadowslor
|p Jres. Almoft all round us the profpeft j^re.
lent d to our v.cw farms and farmrhoufes, and
ace lent fields and meadows. Near the towa
e land ,s pretty flat, and interfefted now and
. I ^f^'^'^^- The roads are very
H broad, and lined with ditches on each

t were of terraces, one above anotlier.v (This

flhZ ft ''• ''°^r'''' P'*"y '"'^<«''/-ehief.
without ftones, and covered with richuBould;

ttn ?!'' ^''-*'-''i'«>-fl«*. which is To
common hereabouts, and is divided into feall

it'' '"1 ^""-"^'^ ^ ** ""• *°me of th,
jMta were horizontal, others perpendioBkri I

;jH,kew.e_ found fach per'pen'dicular ftr'at

fe-"r.!:! ''t\ P^^?'...'" 'he neighbour-
= -" '^s— V. O.U cue mifs «re cultivaied ;

^ and

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Augtcft 1749-

j-JjUl rfi II \ |t'

and Tome are adorned with fine churches, houfe)!,
and corn-fields. The meadows are commonly
in the vaHies, though fomc were likewifc on
eminencies. Soon after we had a fine profpeQ
from one of thefe hills, ^iebec appeared very!
plain to the eaflward, and the river St. Laiv^
rence could likewife be feen j farther diftant, on
the fouth-caft fide of that river, appears a longl
chain of high mountains, running generally pa-
rallel to it, though many miles diftant from it.
To the weft again, at fome diftance from the
rifing lands where we were, the hills changed!
into a long chain of very high mountains, lying
very clofe to each other, and running parallel
likewife to the river, that is nearly from fouth to
north. Thefe high mountains confift of a grey
rock-ftone, compofed of feveral kinds of ftone,
which I (liall mention in the fequel. Thefe
mountains feem to prove, that the lime-flates
are of as ancient a date as the grey rock-flone,
and not formed in later times ; for the amazing
large grey rocks ly on the top of the mountains,]
which confift of black lime-flates.

The high meadows in Canada are excellent,!
and by far preferable to the meadows round|
Philadelphia^ and in the other 'EngUjh colonies,
The further I advanced northward here, the
finer were the meadows, and the turf upon
them was better and clofer. Almoft all thegrafsl
here is of two kinds, viz* a fpecies of the nar-
roiv leaved meadow-grafs * \ for its fpikes -f con-

• Poa anguftifolia, Linn.

t 3piculse tri vd c[uadi:i>ilor3e minlmse; femina bail

pubefcen

m

m\

Between ^ebec and Lorette. 303

bin either three or four flowers, which are fo
«cecd,ngly foall. that the plant might .ll\,
c taken for a bent grafi * ; and its feeds have
fevcral fmall downy hairs at the bottom. The
0 her plant which grows in the meadows, is
be ^hte clover f. Thefe two plants form the
iiay in the meadows , they ftand clofe ,nd thick
together and the meadow.grafs fpoaj is pretty
.all. but has very thin ftaiks. Af the root of
.he meadow-grafs the ground was quite covered
with clover, lo that one cannot wilh for finer
meadows than are found here. Almoft all the
meadows have been formerly corn-fields, as ap-
pears from the furrows on the ground, which
ll.ii retnamed. They can be mown but once
every fummer. as fpring commences very late.

TliEy were now bufied with makin-. hav.
and getnng ,t m and 1 was told, the^ had
begun about a vveek ago. They have hay-ftacks
near moft of their meadows, and on the wet
ones they make ufe of conic hay-ftacks. Their
meadows are commonly without enclofures, the
cattle being in the paftures on the other fide of
the woods, and having cowherds to take care of
mem where they are neceflary.

The corn-fields are pretty large. I faw no
drams any where, though theyVeemed to be
wanting ,n fome places. They are divided into
ndges, of the breadth of two or three yards
broad between the furrows. The perpendi-
cular height ot the middle of the ridge, Jrom

• ^^rojlis. Linn.

\ 'Tri/ilmm recent, Linn, TrifoUum p)

ifonum fratenfd allum, P, rj.

1

III

th<

8

?■ '

3H

Augujl 1749,

the level to the ground, is near one foot. All
tb<ir corn is fummcr-corn ; for as the cold in
winter deftroys the corn which lies in the
ground, they never fow in autumn. I found
white wheat moft commonly in the fields. They
have likewifc large fields with peafc, oats, in
fomc places fummer-rye, and now and then
barley. Near almoft every farm I met with
cabbages, pumpioris, and melons. The fields
are not always fown, but ly fallow every two
years. The fallow-fields are not ploughed in
fummer, fothe weeds grow without reilraintin
them, and the cattle are allowed to go on them
all fummer *.

The houfes in the country arc built promif-
cuoufly of (lone, or wood. To thofe of ftone
they do not employ bricks, as there is not yefi
any confiderable quantity of bricks made here.
They therefore tike what rtones they can find
in the neighbourhood, efpecially the black lime-
flates. Thcfe are quite compadl: when broke,
but (hiver when expofed to the air; however,
this is of little confcquence, as the ftones flick
fail in the wall, and do not fall alunder. Fori
want of it, they fometimes make their buildings,
of lime-ftone, or farad-itone, and fometimes of
grey rock-flone. The wails of fuch houfes are
commonly two feet thick, and feldom thinner.
The people here can have lime every where
in this neighbourhood. The greater part of the

• Here follows, in the original, an account of the endofiirfsj
made ufe of near i^eUc, which is intended only for the ^mk\
but not for a nation that has made fuch progrefs in agriculture anl
hufbandry as the Enghjk. F. . I

houfd

Lorctte,

305

houfcs in the country, are buift of wood, and
fometimcs pla.ftcrcd over on the outfide. The

ftory high. In every room is either a chimney

of iron about two feet and a half lon^, one

ot and a half broad, thefe iron ftovcs are all
eft at the iron- works at Trcis Rivieres. Some

LTh • A'""'' °' """"' "°' "'"'^h larger
than the iron ftovcs. but covered at top with
an iron plate The finoke from the ftoves is
conveyed up the chimney, by an iron pipe. I„
fummer the ftoves are removed

This evening we arrived ai Lorelte, where
we lodged with the Jefuits.

^ug. 13th In the morning we continued
oar journey _ through the woods to the high
mountains. ,n order to fee what fcarce plants
and curiofities we could get there. The ground
was flat at hrft. and covered with a thick wood

\t nW "'kPI'" ""''^y P'^"^- Near lialf
the plants, which are to be met with here.

groivm the woods and moraffes of ^wd'c«.

tln!^" h-^'"'''^ Cherry-trees here, of two
tnds which are probably mere varieties, thongh
hey d.ffer ,„ feveral refpedls. Both are pretty
common in Canada, and both have red berries'.
One kind, which is called C.r^.r by theP««./;.

I A u°"' ^'^r' ''^"'''''' an'l t'^^if acid
wraas t^he mouth, and cheeks. The berrie.

ir.

X

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'1 '

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' 1 1

-'flift

; I i

Augiift 1749.

of the other fort have an agreeable fouruefs, and
a pleafant tafte *.

The three-leaved Hellebore f grows in great
plenty in the woods, and in many places it co-
vers the ground by itfelf. However, it com-
monly choofes moffy places, that are not very
wet /and the wood-forrel %, with the Mountain
Enchanters Night-Jhade ||, are its companions.
Its feeds were not yet ripe, and muft of the ftalks
had no feeds it all. This plant is called Tijfa'
voyanne jaiine by the French, all over Canada.
Its leaves and ftalks are uled by the Indians, for
giving a fine yellow colour to feveral kinds of
work, which they make of prepared Ikins. The
French, who have learned this from them, dye
wool and other things yellow with this plant.

We climbed with a great deal of difficulty to
the top of one of the higheft mountains here, and
I was vexed to find nothing at its fummit, but
what I had feen in other p?rts of Canada be-
fore. We had not even the pleafurc of a pro-
fpedl, becaufe the trees, with which the moun-
tain is covered, obftruded it. The trees thatl
grow here are a kind of horn-beam, or Carpmim
Oftrya, Linn, xht American elm, the red maple,
thefugar-maple, that kind of maple which cures
fcorched wounds (which I have not yet defcrib-
cd), the beech, the common birch-tree, the

• The kind called Cerifter by i\ie French, I defcribed thus hA
journal:. Cerafmfoliis ovaiis /enafis,/erratun's profundi: fire [ubuliA
th.fruSfu raccm-fo. The other thus : Ctrafus foliis Imeolatis, ( «-j
naio-Jerratis, ofuiis, fr u£iu fert foiit.. rio.

f Helleborus trifv)lius.

I OxaUs Ac.tofilla, Linn.

II Circaa Jipinat Linn.

I fugarj

Lorefte.

307

fugar-birch + the forb-tree, the Canada pine,
called Peruffe, the mealy-tree with dentated

juft before defcnbcd. and the berry - bearing

The Gnats in this wood were more nume-
rous than we could have wiflied. Cold water
they reckon the beft remedy againft the bite,
when the wounded places are .walhed with ic
immediately after.

At night we returned to LoreUe, having ac-
curately examined thp plants of note we met with
to-day.

^i^gnji 1 4th. Loretie Is a village three Frenc/i
"l! n ^? '^«,.^^ftward of ^e^ec. Inhabited
chicHybyln^^ans of the Hr^rm nation, convert-
ed to the Roman catholic religion. The village
hes near a Utile river, which falls over a rock
there, with a great noife, and turns a faw-mill
and a flour-mill. When the Jefuit, who is now
with them, arrived among them, they lived in
their ufual huts, which are made like thofe of
\Xit Laplanders. They have fince laid afide this
cuftom, and built all their houfes after the
/r^;7^>^ fafhion. In each houfe are two rooms,
w;2; their bed-room, and the kitchen on the
outfide before it. In the room is a fmafl oven
ot Itone, covered at top with an iron plate. Their
beds are near the wall, and they put no other
clothes on them than thofe which they are
dreffed in. Their other furniture and utenfils

X Beiula Nigra, Linn.

• Vtburvnm dentatuntt Linn.

X2

look

ii 1

IJi

Juguji 1749.

look equally wretched. Here is a fine little
church, with a fteeple and bell. The fteeple is
raifed pretty high, and covered with white tin
plates. They pretend, that there is fome fimila-
rity between this church in its figure and dif-
pofition, and the Santa Cafa, at Loretto in Ital^^
from whence this village has got its name. Clofe
to the church is a houfe built of ftone, for the
clergymen, who are two Jefuits, that conftantly
live here. The divine fcrvice is as regularly at-
tended here as in any other Roman catholic
church ; and I was pleafed with feeing the ala-
crity of the Indians^ efpecially of the women,
and hearing their good voices, when they fing
all forts of hymns in their own language. The
Indians drcfs chiefly like the other adjacent In-
dian nations ; the men, however, like to wrear
waiftcoa's, or jackets, like the French, The
women keep exadlly to the Indian drefs. It is
certain, that thefe Indians and their anceftors,
long fince, on being converted to the Chriflian
religion, have made a vow to God, never to
drink flrong liquors. This vow they have kept
pretty inviolable hitherto, fo that one feldom fees
one of them drunk, though brandy and other
ftrong liquors are goods which other Indians
would fooner be jkiUed for than part with
them. ...•» ,,,

These Indians, have made the Trench their
patterns in feveral things, befides the houfes.
They all plant maize ; and fome have fmall
fields of wheat and rye. Many of them keep
tows. They plant our common fun-flower *

• Heliant^ius annuus.

m

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in

Lorem: 30^

to SST'""'^'''^'' ='"'' "^'^ "^-^ <■«<'= °f it in-

rin? f'^ Pl^"« here is of the L.W fon v! d
rpens looner thai, the other : its gr/ins IVe
Jnaller. b.t g.ve tr^oreand better flour i„ p "
portion. It commonly ripens here at the middle
iome„mes however at the end. oi yluguf ^^'"'
The Swedijl, winter-wheat, and winter-rve
has been tr.ed in Canada, to fee how wel7!;
would fucceed, for they employ nothin. bu
fummer-corn here, it having been found that
^^^ French wheat and rye difs here irwinte
It It be fown in autumn. Dr. Sarrazin h.^
.herefore (as I was told by the eldeft oTfh: tt

/ve of th? ?°: ' ''"^" '^"^"''•y °f -heat and
rye, of the w.nter-corn fort, from S-weden It

was fown in autumn, not hurt by the winter

thoTof^rr- l""" "" "^^'-^ '■^ C
as thofe of the Canada corn, but weighed netr

fi er flour than that fummer-corn. Nobody could
tell me, why the experiments have not been
continued.^ They cannot, I am told, bake 5
white bread here of the fummer-corn. a hey
can ,„ France of their winter-wheat. ]V' Z
people have affured me. that all the kimier^
corn now employed here came from S.vedT,l,
Ncry for the Fre.cA. on their arrival, foind
the winters m Canada too feverc for the Fr^.c A
wmter-corn, and their fummer-corn did n« .
!!f "Pf "' °" ^""""^ of the Aortn.fs of fum-
mer. Therefore they began to look upon Ca-

.„u 'r""r ^'-"■^* "iaii an uieiefs country

where nobody could Jive, till they fdl u'cf^

X

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310 Auguji 1749.

the expedient of getting their fummer-corn from
the moft northern parts of £«rfi'/'^, which has
fuccceded very well.

This -day I returned to ^ebec^ making bota-
nical obfervations by the way.

AuguH 15th. The new governor-general of
all Canada, the marquis de la y^nquiere, arrived
lafl: night in the river before ^ebec \ but it be-
ing late, he referved his public entrance for to-
day. He had left France on the fecond of ^uncy
but could not reach ^ebec before this time, on
account of the difficulty which great fhips find
in paffing the fands in the river St. Lawrence,
The fhips cannot venture to go up without a fair
wind, being forced to run in many bendings, and
frequently in a very narrow channel. To-day
was another great fcafl:, on account of the Af*
cenfion of the Virgin Mary, which is very high-
ly celebrated in Roman catholic countries. This
day was accordingly doubly remarkable, both on
account of the holiday, and of the arrival of the
new governor-general, who is always received
with great pomp, as he reprefents a vice-roy
here.

About eight o*clock the chief people in
town afTcmbled at the houfe of Mr. de Vaudreuil,
who had lately been nominated governor oiTrois
Rivieres, and lived in the lower town, and whofe
father had likewife been governor - general of
Canada. Thither came likewife the marquis de
la GaliJJbnniere, who had till now been governor-
general, and was to fail for France with the firft
opportunity, xie was accompanied by tne peo-
ple belonging to the government. I was like-
wife

wife invited to fee this feftivity. At half an
hour after eight the new governor-general went
froni the fhip into a barge, covered with red
cloth, upon which a fignal with cannons was
given from the rampart?, for all the bells in the
town to be fet a-ringing. All the people of
di(tin<aion went down to the fhore to falute the
governor, who, on alighting from the barge, was
received by the marquis la Galiffhnniere, After
they had faluted each other, the commandant of
the town addreiTed the new governor-general in
a very elegant fpeech, which he anfwered very
concifelyj after which all the cannon on the
ramparts gave a general falute. The whole
ftreet, up to the cathedral, was lined with men
in arm?, chiefly drawn out from among the
burghe/Tes. The governor-general then walked
towards the cathedral, dreffed in a fuit of red,
with abundance of gold lace. His fervants
went before him in green, carrying fire-arms on
their flioulders. On his arrival at the cathedral
he was received by the bifliop of C^«^^^, and
the whole clergy alTembled. The bifhop was
arrayed in his pontifical robes, and had a long
gilt tiara on his head, and a great crozier of mal-
iy filvcr m his hand. After the bifhop had ad-
dreiTed afhort fpeech to the governor-general, a
pried brought a filver crucifix on a long ftick,
(twopriefts with lighted tapers in their hands,'
going on each fide of it) to be kifibd by the go-
vernor. The bifhop and the priefls then went
through the long walk up to the choir. The
fervants of the governor-general followed with
their hats on, and arms on their flioulders. At

^ 4 lalt

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312

J^ugtift I J 4,0'

lafl came the governor-general and his fulte,^
and after them a croud of people. At the be-
ginning of the choir the governor-general, and
t've general de la GaUjformkre, ftopt before a chair
cxvered with red cloth, and flood there during
the whole time of the celebration of the mafs,
which was celebrated by the biihop himfdf.
From the church he went to the palace, when
the gentlemen of note in the town afterwards
went to pay their refpciSts to him. The reli-
gioiis of the different order?, with their refpec-
five faperiors, iikewife came to him, to teftify
their joy on account of his happy arrival. Among
the numbers that came to viht him, none ftaid
to dine but thofe that were invited before-hand,
among whi. h I had the honour to be. The en-
tertainment lafled very long, and was as elegant
as the occafion required.

The governor-general, marquis dc la Jew
guiere, was very tall, and, at that time, fome-
thing above fjxty years eld. He had fought a
defperale naval battle with the EngUjh in the
laft war, but had been obliged to furrender, the
Englijh being, as it was told, vaftly fuperior in
the number of ihips and men. On thi-s occafion
he was wounded by a ball, which entered one
iide of his fhoulder, and came out at the other.
He was very complaifant, but knew how to pre-
ferve his dignity, when he diftributed favours.

Many of the gentlemen, prefent at this en-
tertainment, aflerted that the following expedient
had been fuccefsfully employed to keep wine,
beer, or water, cool during fummer. The

are

Quebec.

313

.re well corked, hung up in the air, and wrap-
ped ,n wet clouts. This cools the wine i„X
oules notwahftanding it was .pire warm be-
fo e A ter a lutle while the clones are again

Zt7nf,w''^ '^ '"^^"^ ^^'" 'hat is xl be
had, and this is always continued. The wine

colder than the water with which the clouts
are made wet. And thongh the bottles Zlu
be hung up i„ the fu„fl,i„e. the above w y^
proceeding wjll alwnys have the Ame eiFed *
, Juguji .6,h The occidental Arior vitU
IS a tree which grows veiv pienriful in CanajJ

inc louin lice or Rnr-rt-sn-^ :„ *u
A7 -v i , ^^'^g-/?, in the province of

mw-Tork, and l,k.ui/e near Caffes, in the
»e province, which places are in forty-two
degrees and ten minutes north latitude.

Mr Bartram however, informed me, that
he had found a fingle tree of this kind in Vh^.
ima near thejalh in the river James. Doftor
&/^.« hkewife afllTted, that he had feen it ia
many places round his feat Coldingham, which
lies etween Nev^-York, and ^1.,^,; ^bout

•.o.,,will get a rcmnrk b.V decree of ^oM tj/o •''f"' "r""""-
poration fucceeds. after ren^ , Jl !i; ■ V ^ q'Ji'-ter the eva-
Tierefore fplrit A/;^ '/?,,'' ^ PP'^gs, the greater is the cold.

»=re than w "er : a"d fpSt^'o'';'^';'! I"'^^" "'^" """' ""I'
li-e, being ftill raore voh le thL I ?'?'""/'?'=• ""^^ b/ q"ick.
lil' is l!il) eteatcr Tl° I '''=".0"rit of wine, its cooling qua-

bloivin.. upon it J„Z"T ■' ^ "P°''"S « » the air, and by
I T ^l^'Haocc ^ciialuf Linn, ^ ^-^

forty.

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314 Auguji 1749.

forty-one degrees thirty minutes north latitude.
The French^ all over Canada, call it Cedre blanc.
The Englip and Dutch in Alha7iy likewife call
it the white Cedar. The Englijh in Firginiuy
have called a Thuya, which grovvs with them, a
Juniper,

The places and foil where it grows beft, are
not always alike, however it generally fucceeds
in fuch ground where its roots have iufficient
moifture. It feems to prefer fwamps, marihes,
and other wet places to all others, and there it
grows pretty tall. Stony hills, and places where
a number of ftones ly together, covered with
feveral kinds of moflfes *, fcemed to be the next
in order where it grows. When the fea (liores
were hilly and covered with mofTy ftones, the
Thuya feldom failed to grow on them. It is
likewife feen now and then on the hills near
rivers, and other high grounds, which are co-
vered with a duft like earth or mould ; but it is
to be obfervcd that fuch places commonly carry
a fouri(h water with them, or receive moiilure
from the upper countries. I have however feen
it growingin fome pretty dry places ; but there it
never comes to any conliderable fize. It is pretty
frequent in the clefts of mountains, but cannot
grow to any remarkable height or thicknefs.
The talleft trees I have found in the wooes in
Canada, were about thirty or thirty-fix feet
high. A tree of exadlly ten inches diameter
had ninety-two rings round the ftem-f-j another

• Lichen^ Bryutrif Hypnum,

•j- Oi thefe rings or circles, it is well known sll trees get lutj

nno a%tor\t voir (f\ t'n^t t\\p\t (frvt^ tr\ Q(rpr^air> t-\\f artf Qi tht Ui^^i

and the quicknefs, or flownefs of its growth. F.

01,

Sluebee. j,.

of one foot and two inches in diameter had one
hundred and fotty-two rings*.

The inhabitants of Canada generally makft
Bfe of this tree m the following cafes. It being
reckoned the moft durable wood in Canada, and
«rh|ch bed withftands putrefaaion. fo as to re-
main undamaged for above a man's age. enclo-
fares of all kinds are fcarce made of any other
ihan this wood. All the pofts which are driven
^m the ground, are made of the Thuya wood.
The pahlades round the forts in Canada are
likc^.fe maoe of the fame wood. The planks
II. the houfes are made of it; and the thin nar-
row pieces of wood which form both the ribs
aod the bottom of the bark boats, commonly
made ufe of here, are taken from this wood,
becaufe . t ts pl.ant enough for the purpofe. efpe.
cially whdft n .s frerb. and likewife becaufe it

ne of the beft for the ufe of lime-kilns. Its
branches are ufed all over Canada for befoms :
and the tw.gs and leaves of it being naturally
bent together, feem to be very proper for the
porpofe The Indians make fuch befoms and
bring them to the towns for fale. nor do I
remember having feen any befoms of any other
wood. The fre(h branches have a pLuliar
agreeable fcent, which is pretty flrongly fmelled
m houfes where they make ufe of befoms of this

This Thuya is made ufe of for feveral medi-
cinal purpofes. The commandant of Fort Sf.

«!«,!'"''""'""'''"'«'• "'■" I 'i'e'fe of the diameter, of

Frederic,

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316 '^ugr^J 1749.

Frederic, M. de Luf.gnan, could never fuffid-
cntly prkife its excellence for rheumatic pains.
ric told me he had often feen it tried, with re-
markable good fuccefs, upon feveral pcrfons, in
the following i^'anher. The frcfh leaves are
pounded in a mortar, and mixed with hog's
^reafc, or any other grenfe. This is boiled toge-
ther till it becomes a falve, which is fpread on
linen, and applied to the part where the pain
ii. The falve gives certain relief in a fliort
time. Againft violent pains, which move upl
and down in the thighs, and fometimes fpreadi
all over the body, they recommend the follow-
ing remedy. Take of the leaves of a kind ofl
P(?^/>i?^* four-fifths, and of the cones of thcf
Thuya one-fifth, both reduced to a coarfe pow-
der by themfelves, and mixed together after-
wards. Then pour milk-warm water on it, fo
as to make a poultice, which fpread .on linen,
and wrap it round the body : but as the poultice|
burns like fire, they commonly lay a cloth be-
tween it and the body, otherwife it would burnl
and fcorch the ikin. I have heard this remedyl
praifed beyond mcafure, by people who faid theyl
had experienced its good efFecfls. An Jro(im}\
Indian told me, that a decodion of Thuya leaves
was ufed as a remedy for the cough. In the
neighbourhood of Saratoga, they ufe this de-
codioti in the intermitting fevers.

The Thuya tree keeps its leaves, and is greer
all winter. Its feeds are ripe towards the enc

• Polypcdtum frcnde finnaia, pinnh afternu ad iajin fuimi
*l'ptnd:culatu.

never fuffid-
umatic pains,
led, with re-
al pcrfons, in
:(h leaves are
d with hog's
is boiled toge-
1 is fpread on
here the pain
ef in a fliort
lich move up
etimes fpread
d the follow-
of a kind ofi
cones of the
a coarfe pow-
)gether after-
/ater on it, fo
sad. on linen,
IS the poultice
y a cloth be-
lt would burn
[ this remedy!
who faid they|

An Iroqueje
Thuya leave
•ugh. In th

ufe this de-

,i September, old %le. The fourth of OiJoier
f r y -'L' ^7*9. tome of the cones, efpecianv
. ofe wh.ch Rood much expofed to he heat 7f
e fun. had already drop.^heir feeds, and all
e other cones were opening i„ orde to fl.ed
t em. Th>s tree has. in common with manu
,oher^w„,^« tree*, the quality of IS
plentiful m marfl,es and thick woodf wh ch
m be wth certainty culled its native pTacef
lowever, there is fcarce a finglc Thuya free'n
bfe places which bears feed. ; if. on^.he oth^
knd. a tree accidentally ftands on the o tfid o^
wood, on the fea fhore. or in a i5eld where

Ws. I have found this to be the cafe wi h he
Thuya on tnnumerable occafions. h L £
ich 1;:' 7;'' the fugar-maple. the l^
.lethte^ fif , healtng fcorched wounds.
ne white fir-tree, the pine called Peruke
'ihe mulberry-tree and fcveral others ^ '

^ugufi 17th. This day I went to fef ft,-
-er^of the Ur/u^ whic^rifd^o d

rch tI * '°''" '"^ ^'' " ^'^y fine

urcb. The nuns are renowned for their piety,

N they go lefs abroad than any others Th«
knare l.kewif. not allowed .0 Jo i„\o Thi'

mop. At the defire of the marquis de k Gal-
gw.r. the,bi(hop granted meJeave ,0 v^t

y.h?ab^r? "." °"^ ""^^'' "'^ "-^^^eceived
y the abbefs, who was attended by a sreat

- -f ..v.n.-, »ui tiie nioit part old ones.
^ . We

fftSr j'f

« ^ 'i'l

3i8

Auguft 1749.

We faw the church ; and, it being Sunday^ ue
found fome nuns on every fjdc of it kneeling by
thcmfclvcs and faying prayers. As foon as wc
came into the church, the abbefs and the nuns
with her dropt on their knees, an'' fo did M,
Gaulthier and myfclf. We then went to aa
apartment or fmall chapel dedicated to the!
Virgin Mary, at the entrance of which, they I
all fell on their knees again. Wc afterwards
faw the kitchen, the dining hall, and the apart-
ment they work in, which is large and fine.
They do all forts of neat work there, gild pic-
tures, make artificial flowers, &c. The dining
hall is difpofed in the fame manner as in the
other two monafleries. Under the tables are!
fmall drawers for each nun to keep her napkin,
knife and fork, and other things in. Theirl
cells are fmall, and each nun has one to her-
felf. The walls are not painted 1 a little bedj
a table with a drawer, and a crucifix, and pic-
tures of faints on it, and a chair, conftituie the
whole furniture of a cell. We were then led
into a room full of young ladies about twelvei
years old and below that age, fent thither bj
their parents to be inftrudted in reading, and in
matters of religion. They are allowed to go to
vifit their relations once a day, but mud noj
flay away long. When they have learnt read^
ing, and have received inftrudtions in religion]
they return to their parents again. Near the
monaftery, is a fine garden, which is furroiindj
ed with a high wall. It belongs to this inHIj
tuticn, and is flocked with all forts of kitchen!
herbs and fruit-trees. When the nuns areal

work!

work, or during dinner, every thing is filent
jn the rooms, unlefs fome one of them reads to
the others; but after dinner, they have leave to
take a walk for an hour in or two in the garden,
or to divert themfclvcs within-doors. After we
bad fecn every thing remarkable here, we took
our kave, and departed.

About a quarter of a Swedijh mile to the
weft of ^ebec, is a well of mineral waters,
which carries a deal of iron ochre with it, and
has a pretty ftrong taftc. M. Gaulthier faid,
that he had prefcribed it with fucccfs in coftive
cafes and the like difeafes.

I HAVE been aflured, that there are no fnakes
in the woods and fields round ^ebec, whofebite
is poifonous -, fo that one can i-iStXy walk in the
grafs. I have never found any that endeavoured
to bite, and all were very fearful. In the fouth
parts of Canaday it is not advifeable to be ofF
one*s guard.

A VERY fmall fpecies of black ants * live
in ant-hills, in high grounds, in woods ; they
look exadly like our Swedijh ants, but are
much lefs.

Aug. 2 1 ft. To-DAY there were fome peo-
ple of three Indian nations in this country with
the governor-general, viz. Hurons, Mickmacks^
and Antes ^', the laft of which are a nation of
Iroquefey and allies of the Englijh, and were
taken prifoners in the laft war.

Iff

• Fnrmica n'yra. Linn,
t Probably bnid.es.

The

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■'! .^

320

Jt/guJ 1749,

The Utirons are fome of the Tame Indians
with thofe who live at Lorette, and have re-
ceived the chriillan religion. They are tall,
robuft people, well Ihaped, and of a copper-
colour. They have fliort black hair, which is
fhaved on the forehead, from one ear to the
other. None of them wear hats or caps. Some
have ear-rings, others not. Many of them have
the face painted all over with vermillion; others
have only ftrokes of it on the forehead, and near
the ears 3 and fome paint their hair with Ver-
million. Red is the colour they chiefly make
ufe of in painting themfelves; but I have like-
wife itzi\ fome, who had daubed their face with
a black colour. Many of them have figures in
the face, and on the whole body, which are
ftained into the fkin, fo as to be indelible. The
manner of making them (hall be defcribed in
the fcquel. Thefe figures are commonly black;
fome have a fnake painted in each cheek, fome
have feveral crofies, fome an arrow, others the
fun, or any thing tMo, their imagination leads
them to. They have futh figures likewife on
the brcaft, thighs, and other parts of the bodyj
but fome have no figures at all. They wear a
fhirt, which is either white or checked, and a
fhaggy piece of cloth, which is either blue or
white, with a blue or red ftripe below. This
they always carry over their fhoulders, or let it
han^ down, in which cafe they wrap it round
their middle. Round their neck, they have a
firing of violet wampums, with little white
wampums between them. Thefe wampums are
fmall, of the figure of oblong pearls, and made

of

^lebec.

32 1

It he ^S TY^ ^"^^EngUp call clams*.
At the end of the wampum ftrings, many ot
he ^d^ans wear a lar^e French filve^r wb \^ith
the k>ng s effigy on theit breads. Other; ha «
a large (hell on the breaft. of a fine white coW
which they val.e very' high, and is very dear

ht neck They all hjve their breafts uncover-

made of th'e t" ^"«' "^■"'^ tobacco-pouch,
made of the fkm of an animal, and the hairv

fide turned outwards. Their rho'es are made7f

ikins, and bear a great refemblance to the flioes

The Mf^OT^f^^ are dreffed like the Hurom
but d,ft.ngui/h themfelves by .heir long S
hair, of a jetty-black colour. Almoft al the

cTr J R-fT'- ••'^°'^ '?'»!^ was pretty much

Si / >' - .''^" '^"^ complexion of the
W^ /VW their blood being mixed with
he W,<,«,. ether by the adopted prifo;,ers
f o,h le;ces, or by the f ..«,/.;,,,J vl,\^A
n the country, and often contribute their fliare
towards the encreaft of the Indian fam£. the r

a"e^om„"°S ''""S/^^y %■ Th, MikZc^s

re co„n,o„, not fo tall as xh^Hurons. I have '
not feen any Indms whofe hair was as lone and
ftrauastheas. Their language is different^

Vol, li."' y ,k .

, ' ' * that

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Mgitft 1749-

that of the Ilurons ; thcrefofc there is an inter-
preter here for them on purpofe.

The Anies are the third kind of Indians

which came hither. Fifty of them went out

in the war, being allies of the EngUjb^ in order

to plunder in the neighbourhood of M?«/r^j/.

But the French^ being informed of their fcheme,

laid an ambufh, and killed with the firft dif-

charge of their guns forty-four of them j fo that

only the four who were here to-day faved their

lives, and two others, who were ill at this time.

They are as tall as the Hurons, whofe language

they fpeak. The Hurons feem to have a longer,

and the jinies a rounder face. The Anies have

(bmething cruel in their looks ; but their drefs

is the fame as that of the oxhtt Indians. They

wear an oblong piece of white tin between the

hair which lies on the neck. One of thofe I faw

had taken a flower of the rofe mallow, out of a

garden, where it was in full bloffom at this time,

and put it among the hair at the top of his head.

Each of the Indians has a tobacco-pipe of grey

lime-ftone, which is blackened afterwards, and

has a long tube of wood. There were no Indian

women prcfent at this interview. As foon as

the governor-general came in, and was feated

in order to fpeak with them, the Mickmacks fat|

down on the ground, like Laplanders^ but the.

other Indians took chairs.

Thejie is no printing-prefs in Canada^ tho'
there formerly was one; but all books are
brought from France^ and all the orders made
in the country are written, which extends even
to the paper- currency. They pretend that tbcj

prefsl

§^ehec.

e IS an inter-*

323

Khe r! ^'' /"^^^^"^^ ^ere, left It fhould

*nat Fraw^ may have thp nr^fi, „ -r r ^ . '
exportation of bLks h.-thef '^"^ ^"'^ ''^^

renTfrom!h'r ''•''" u'" '" """y '^'pe'Ss diiFe-
rent from thofe m the EW^VJ provinces TMc

tI: u''S'°"' ''"«'«^n the two nation?

piece 01 bread m brandy, and eat i> . ^f J,^
Uke a dram of brandy^ /„'dea"Vj:iL:;f ltd

£ b e'kfaS and'' " ''''7'^^ "''^ ^°'"«'°'
cok^ Q ' '^ """y ''^ the ladies drink
coffee. Some eat no breakfaft at all. I have

rv DinnV • '^ '''* ™°"^y °'" °f 'heir coun,

/auai?/ b! " ''''"^ '''^"^'y « "°°"' People

reft foil. 1 ' ^'"' "*""y of difteP, and the

vheaf fl •„. ^l '°''V "'«= °^^'. ''"d baked of
wneat nour. For each nrrfon »!,»„ „... . _i..

aapkin. fDQon. on^ <-::i:"'" 'C' n"' " H'!"e.

. C)ometimes

y 2

likewil

ey

n

324

^ugujl ly^g.

I I!

i':i.U^:

A-. V ':!;

Ml. i

I • ( 'I

likewli'e give knives ; but they are generally
omitted, al! the ladies and gentlemen being pro-
vided -with their own knives. The fpoons and
forks are of filver, and the plates of Delft ware.
The meal begins with a foup, with a good deal
of bread in it. Then follpw fre(h meats of vari^
ous kinds, boiled, and roafted, poultry, or game,
fricaflees, ragoos, ^c. of feveral forts; together
with different kinds of fallads. They commonly
drink red claret at dinner, mixed with water;
and fpruce beer is likewife much in ufe. The
ladies drink water, and fometimes wine. After
dinner the fruit and fweet-meats are ferved up,
which are of many different kinds, *ijiz, walnuts
from France y or Canada, either ripe, or pick-
led; almonds, raifins, hafelnuts, feveral kinds
of berries, which are ripe in the fummer feafon,
fjch as currants, cran- berries, which are pre-
fer ved in treacle ; many prefer ves in fugar, as
ftraw-berries, rafp-berries, black-berries, and
mofs-berries. Cneefe is likewife a part of the
defert, and fo is milk, which they eat laft of all
with fugar. Friday and Saturday they eat no
fle(h, according to the Roman Catholic rites;
but they well know how to' guard againft hun-
ger. On thofe days they boil all forts of
kitchen-herbs, and fruit; fifhes, eggs, and
milk, prepared in various' ways. They cut
cucumbers into flices, and eat them with cream,
which is a very good difh. Sometimes they put
whole cucumbers on the table, and every body
that likes them takes one, peels, and flices it,
and dips the flices into fait, eating them like
racidifhes. Melons abound here, and are always

■ eaten

i liL^jr ?"^°"'y "Oft themfelves, which
diiner ^r''j'-^ ^T^" I'»=«ediat ly after

Haw wo great dogs .o.day put before a Me

ha nefs lit 5"% ""' °"''^- ^hey had neat
harnefs. I,ke hprf.s, and bits in their moulhr

' the car. was a barrel. The dogs are 7°rtitd
by a boy. who .run. behind the cart nd'^

con as they come to the river, they Jul t'' ^
h .r own accprd. When the b«reU, filled

^ ii^ive ieeu tiiem fetch nnf nnh. .„...:' l,.7>

wife wood, and other th

not only water, but h'ke-

ings. In winte

r It 13

cufloniary

II

I 11

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-)

I .

* >

' i
■ If

1 '

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326

Mgujl 1749.

cuftomary in Canada, for travellers to put dogs
before little fledges, made on purpofe to hold
their cloathes, provillons, &c. Poor people com-
monly employ them on their winter-journies, and
go on foot themfelves. Almoft all the wood,
which the poorer people in this country fetch
out of the woods in winter, is carried by dogs,
"Which have therefore got the name of horfes of
the poor people. They commonly place a pair
of dogs before each load of wood. I have like-
wife feen fome neat little fledges, for ladies to
ride in, in winter ; they are drawn by a pair of
dogs, and go faflier on a good road, than one
would think* A middle- fized dog is fufficient
to draw a Angle perfon, when the roads are
good. 1 have been told by old people, that
horfes Were very fcarce here in their youth, and
almofl all the land-carriage was then effected by
dogs. Several Frenchmen^ who have been a-
mong the Efquimaux on Terra Labrador^ have
aflured me, that they not only make ufe of dogs
for drawing drays, with their provifions, and
other neceflaries, but are likewife drawn by them
themfelves, in little fledges.

Jlug, 25th. The high hills, to the wefl: of
the town, abound with fprings. Thefe hills
confifl of the black lime-flate, before-men-
tioned, and are pretty deep, fo that it is diflicult
to get to the top. Their perpendicular height
3S about twenty or four and twenty yards. Their
fummits are deflitute of trees, and covered with
a thin cruft of earth, lying on the lime-flates,
and are employed for corn helds, or paftures.
It feems inconceivable theref re, from whence

thefe

^tbec.

1^7

thefe naked hills could take fo many running

hills like torrents. Have thefe hills the quality
of attrading the water out of the air in the
day time, or at night ? Or are the litne-flatcs
more apt to it than others f

mol''^ v^ ^"'^^l '" ^''"'"^'' "e ftrong, well
made fw.ft. as tall as the horfes of our cavalry,
and of a breed imported from France. The in'
habitants have the cuftom of docking the tails
of their horfes. which is rather hard fpon them
here, as they cannot defend themfelves againft
the numerous fwarms of gnats, gad-flies? and

the other in their carts, which has probably
wfr 'h^docking of their tails.^ as the
horfes would hurt the eyes of thofe behind
S: ''y 'j:°'""g '^eir tails backwards and for-
iTrW f g°'"^'-nof-general. and a few of

the chief people in town, have coaches, the reft
make ufe of open horfe-chairs. It is a genera
complaint, that the country people bji„ ,o
keep too many horfes. by which means the cows
are kept Ihort of food in winter

The cows have likewife been imported from
W. and are of the fize of our commo,^
JWyScows, Everybody agreed that the

tie. wnicb were born of the original Frend,
bre.d. never grow up to the fame fize. This
hey afcnbe to the cold winters, durino which

and give them but little food. Almoft all the
cows have horns, a few. however. I h... fte„
WiiHout them. A cow without horns would be

' 4 reckoned

1 i

I i.

mm

r

. .1

?M'

i!. > ! 1" l!

I M'^

i ^ 1^

328

Augufi 1749.

reckoned an unheard of curiofity in Pen/\'hania,
' The beef and ve^l at Quebec is reckoned fatter
and more palatable than at Montreal. Some
look upon the falty paftures below ^ebec as
the caufe of this diffcrehce. In Canada the
oxen draw with the horns, but in the Englifli
colonies they draw with their withers, as horfes
[ do. The cows vary in colour; however, moft
of them are either red, or black.

Every countryman commonly keeps a few
Iheep, which fupply him vvith as" much wool
as he wants to clothe hinifclf with. The better
fort of clothes are brought from France, The
fheep degenerate here, after they are brought
from France, and their' progeny ft ill more fo.
The want of food in \^rnter is faid to caule this
degeneration. ; 1

*^ , ■ ■ ' r^ ' '* c • • ■•••■-■

I HAVE not fee n any goats iriG?;?^^^, and I
have been a'fTured that there are none. I have
feen but very few in iht Efiglifh' c6\6mt%y and
only in their towris, where they are kept' on ac-
count of fome fick people, who drink the milk
by the advice of their phyficians.

The harrows are triangular J two of the fides
are fix f^et, and the thii-d four feet long. The
teeth, and every other part of the harrows are
pt woofj. The teeth are about five inches long,
and about as much diftant from each other.

The prpfpedl of the country about a quarter
of a mile "Swedijh, north of ^uehee, on the weft
fide of the river St. Lawrence, is very fine.
The country is very iteep towards the river, and
^grows higher as you go farther from the water.
In many places it is naturally divided into ter-

races. From the heights, one can look a ^reat

way : Quebec appears very plain to the Ibu b

and he „ver St. Lawrence to the eal^ on

wh.ch were veff.ls faWing „p and down To

nsofl:""^ high .nountains, whiJh th^
h lis of the nver end with. All the country is
la.d out for corn-fields, mendows. and paftures!
moft of the fields were fown with whea^ S
with whue oats, and fome with peafe. Se3
fine houfes and farms are interfperfed all over
the country, and none are ever together The
welhng-houfe is commonly buHt of bhck

',r;?'"\r'* ^'""'"y ^hite-wafhed on he
ut-fide Many rivulets and brooks roll dow„
he h.gb grounds, above which the ^reat mou^

lime llates that fli.ver m pieces in the open
ir. On the hme-nates lies a mould of two'^or
three feet tn depth. The foilin the corrfield

i" "'iir.h:' "',' '""^ r'^" °^ '"^^ '™ -

Hate. All the rivulets cut their beds deep infS
.he ground 5 fo that their ftores are com-^on J
fl.me_flate A darfc-grey lime-ftone is fom !
times found among the ftrata, which, when
broke, fmells like ftink-ftonc. "

They were now building feveral ftlps below
^>ei>ec, for the kmg's account. However, h7.
fore my departure, an order arrived from France

except thofe which were already on the flocks-
becaufe they had found, that the fl>ips built of
Amencan oak do not laft fo long as thofe of
hurobean nak. N«,r <5>v-/!,- -- f . -

cak, and what grows there is not fit for ufe!

beinn^

^ !■

' 'I

) \\

33°

Attgui 1749,

i ,!

■Hj-I i

i':l

!il|

;! : il

being very fmall j therefore they are obliged to
fetch their oak timber from thofe pans of
Canada which border upon New-England, But
all the North- American oaks have the quality
of laftins; longer, and withftanding putrefadion
better^ iiic vactner north they grow, and men
merfa. The timber from the confines of New^
"England is brought in floats or rafts on the rivers
near thofe parts, and near the lake St. Pierre^
which fall into the •^rrn river iS/. Lawrence,
' Some oak is likewife brought from the country
between Montreal and Fort St. Frederic, or
Fort Champlain i but it is not reckoned fo good
as the firfl:> and the place it coaies from is fur-
ther didant.

Aug, 26th. They (hewed a green earth,
which had been brought to the general, mar-
quis de la Galijffhnnieret from the upper pans of
Canada. It was a clay, which cohered very fail
together, and was of a green colour throughout,
like vcrdigreafe *.

All the brooks in Canada contain crawfi{h>
of the fame kind with ours. The French are
fond of eating them, and fay they are vaftly de-
creafed in number fince they have begun to
catch them.

The common people in the country feem to
be very poor. They have the neceflaries of
life, and but little clfe. They are content with
meals of dry bread and water, bringing all
other provifions, fuch as butter, cheefe, fieih,
poultry, eggs, (^c. to town, in order to get

jrr-

money

Prom ^ebec to Bay St. PauL ^ 3 1

money for them, for which they buy clothes and
brandy for themfclves, and drefTes tor their wc
men. Notwithftanding their poverty, they are
always chearful, and in high fpirits.

Auguji 29th. By the defire of the governor-
VjTt' ^f"^""'' delajonquiere, and of marquis
Uilaiyalijjonntere, I fet out, with fomc French
gentlemen, to vifit ihe pretended filver-mine, or
the lead-mine, near the bay St. PauL I was
glad to undertake this journey, as it gave me an
opportunity of feeing a much greater part of the
country than i fhould otherwife have done. This
morning therefore we fet out on our tour in a
boat, and went down the .river St. Lawrence.

The profpedt near Quebec is very lively from
the river. The town lies s^txy high, and all the
churches and other buildings appear very confpi-
cuous. The (hips in the river below ornament
the landfcape on that fide. The powder maga-
zine, which {lands at the fummit of the moun-
tain on which the town is built, towers above '
all the other buildings.

The country we pafTed by afforded a no lefs
charming fight. The river St. Lawrence flows
nearly from fouth to north here j on both fides
of It are cultivated fields, but more on the weft
Udethan on the eaft fide. The hills on both
ftiores arc fte p and high. A number of fine
hills, feparated from each other, large fields,
which looked quite white from the corn with
which they are covered, and excellent woods of
deciduous trees, made the country round us lock
[very pleafant. Now and then we faw a church
oM>one, and in feveral places brooks fell from
^ the

'( I

■A I

w

i

y,2 Augu/l 1749- "

the hills Into the river. Where the hrooks arc
confiderablc, there they have padc favv-mills,
*nd water-mills.

After rowing for the fpace of a French mile
and a half, we came to the ille o^ Orleans, which
is a large ifland, near feven French miles and a
half long, and alfnoft two of thrfc miles hro?d,
in the wicieft part. It lies in the middle of the
riyer St, Lawrence^ is very high, has fleep and
very woody (hores. There are fome places with-
out trees, which have farm houfes helow, quite
clofe to the (horc. The ifle itfelf is well culti-
vated, and nothing but fine houfes of ftone,
large corn-fields, imeadows, pa (lures, woods of
deciduous trees, and fome churches built of
flone, are to he feeri on it.
• We went into that branch of the river which
flbvs^s on the wefl fide of the ifle oi Orleans, it
being the fhortefl. It is reckoned about a qdar-
ttr of a French mile broad, but fhips cannot
fake this road, on account of the fand-banks,
which ly here near the projeding points of land,
and on account of the {hallowriefs of the water,
the rocks and ftones at the bottom. Thefliores
on both fides fi:ill kept the fame appearance as|
before.' On the weft fide, or on the continent,
the hills near the river confill throughout of|
black lime-flatc, and the houfes of the peafantsi
are liiadc of this kind of flone, White- waflied
on the outfide. Some few houfes are of diffe-|
rent kinds of flone. The row of ten moun-
tains, which is on the wefl fide of the river, and!
runs nearly from fouth to north, gradually comesj
nearer to the river : for at ^^lekc they are near

two

From ^ebec to Bjj St. Paul. 333

two French miles diftant from the fliore , but
nine French miles lower down, the river, they arc
almofl clofe to the Hiore. Thefe raountiins arc
generally covered with woods, but in fome places
the woods have bee,, deftroyed by accidental
fires. About eight French miles and a half from

' ^f f 'c.°" i''= "^f '""^'= ^^ '•"= "*". is '"■■liurch
called i>t. Anne, clofe to the fliore. This church

IS remarkable, becaufe the fliips from /'rw*
and other parts, as foon as they are got fo far up
(he river St-. Lawrence, as to get fight of it, give
a general difcharge of their artillery, as a fign of
hoy, that they have paft all danger in the river.
I and have efcaped all the fands in it.

The water had a pale red colour, and was

very dirty in thofe parts of the river which w=

(aw to-day. though it was every where comput-

I ed above fix fathoms deep. Somewhat bdow

I i/. Anne, on the weft fide of the river & Law-^

\rmce another river, called k Grande. Riviere, or

the Gr.«/ mver, falls in it. Its water flows

with fuch violence, as to make its way almofl

into the middle of the branch of the river St'

\Lawrence, which runs between the continent

and the ifle of Or/f^a/.

About two o'clock in the afternoon the tide
began to flow up the river, and the wind beina
tkewife agamft us.^ we could not proceed any
farther, t,ll the t,de began to ebb. We therefore
00k up our night's lodging in a great farm be-
longing to the priefts in ^,e6ec, near which is a
finecnurch called 5/. Joachim, after a voyaee of
Ubout eight French miles. We were exceeding
|WI1 received here. The king has given all the

country

i , II

i :ii

I 1 '

ll:'f

■it'

iilh

f

: ! f

334 '^^g^J 1749.

country round about this place to the feminary
or the prieils at ^e^ec, who have leafed it to
farmers who have built houfes on it. Here are
two priefts, and a number of young boys, whom
they inftrudl in reading, writing, and Latin.
Moft of thefe boys are defigned for priefts : Di^
reaiy oppofite to this farm, to the eaftward, is
the north-eaft point, or the extremity of the ifle
of Orleans,

All the gardens in Canada abound with red
currant ihrubs, which were at firft brought over
from Europe, They grow exceffively well here,
and the ihrubs, or buOies, are quite red, bein»
covered all over with the berries, ^

The wild vines* grow pretty plentifully in
the woods. In all other parts of Canada they
plant them in the gardens, near arbours, and
fummer-houfes. The fummer^houfes are made
entirely of laths, over which the vines climb with
their tendrils, and cover them entirely with their
foliage, fo as to flielter them entirely from the
heat of the fun. They are very refrefhing and
tool in fummer. •

The flrong contrary winds obliged us to ly
all night at St. Joachim,

-^HHft 3^^h- This morning we continued
our journey in fpite of the wind, which was very
violent againft us. The water in the river be-
gins to get a brackifh tafte, when the tide is
higheft, fomewhat below St, Joachim 5 and the
faruicr one goes down, the more the faline tafte i
cncrcafcs. At firft the wcftern fhore of the river

m k,

f Vidf labrufcs U valpiRt »

has,

From ^ebec U Bay St, Paul. ^35

has fine, but low corn-fields, but foon after the
high mountains run clofe to the river fide. Be-
fore they come to the river, the hilly fhores con-
m of black lime-ilate ; but as foon as the hi-h
mountains appear on the river fide, the lim^e-
flates difappear. For the. ftone, of which the
high mountains confift, is a chalky rock-ftone
mixed with glimmer and quartz * The glim-
mer is black i the quartz partly violet, and part-
ly grey. All the four conftituent parts are fo
well mixed together, as not to be eafily feparat-
cd by an inftrument, though plainly diflinguifli-
able with the eye. During our journey to-dav,
the breadth of the river was generally three
Frenc/i miles. They fhcwed me the turnings
the (hips are obliged to fail in, which feem to
be very troublefome, as they are obliged to bear
away for either fhore as occafion requires, or as
the focks and fands in the river oblige them to
do.

For the diftance of five French miles we had
a very dangerous pafl'age to go through ; for the
whole weftern fhore, along which we rowed,
confifts of very high and fteep mountains, where
we could not have found a fingk place to land
with fafety, during the fpace of five miles, in cafe
a high wind had arifen. There are indeed two
or three openings, or holes, in the mountains,
into which one could have drawn the boat, in
the greateft danger. But they are fo narrow,
that la cafe the boat could not find them in the
hurry, it would inevitably be daOied againft the

• e>

wMam micacw giwrzofo caicariwn.

j^l:)i||

I

y^ 11

V'-'lli

if

< i

recks.

53^

^ligiijl 1749.

'^iPr ^ ' „:.

\ m

rocks. Thefe high mountains are either quite
bare, or covered with fome fniall firs (landing
far afunder. In fome places the.re are great clefts
Zomg down the mountains, in which trees grow
very clofe together, and are taller than on the
other parts of th? mountain; fo that thofe places
look like quick-hedges, planted on the folid
rock. Soon after we paffcd a fmall church, and
fome farms round it. The place is called I'etiu
Ilivkrer,^nd they fay its inhabitants are very
poor, which feems very probable. They have
no more land to cultivate than what lies be-
tween the mountains and the river, which irj
the widefl part is not above three muflcet-fhot,
and in mod parts but one broad. About feven-
tccn French miles from ^ie^ec the water is fo
falty in the river that no one can drink it, our
rowers therefore provided themfelves with a
kettle full of frefh water this morning! About
five o'clock in the evening we arrived at bay St,
Pau/, and took our lodgings with the priefts, who
have a fine large hgufe here, and entertained us
very hofpitably.

Bay S^, Pau/ is a fmall parifli, about eighteen
French piiles below ^^^.v, lying at fome diftance
from the fhore of a bay formed by the river, on
a low plain: It is- furrounded hy high moun-
tains on every fide, one large gap excepted,
which is over againfl the river. Allthe farms
are at fome diftance from each other. The
church is reckoned one of the moft.ancier.t in
Canada; which kems to be confirmed by its
bad architeaiire, and want of ornaments ^ for
the walls are formed cf pieces gf timber, .eredl-

I '• vi I

if" I

Bay St. Paul. yj.

ed at about two feet diftance from each other
fupporfng ,he roof. Between thefe pieces of
timber, they have made the walls of the charch
of hme.flate. The roof is flat. The church
has no fteeple, but a bdl fixed above the r^f
m the open a.r. Almoft all the country in *hh

leafed u to the farmers. The inhabitants live
II ,T." /g'"^"l'">-e, and making of tar
which laft is fold at ^ebec.

hJ"/!K^°"""'^^'"S '""'• """J fi'"«<ed upon a
bay of the nver, it may he conjedlured, that this
flat ground was formerly part of the bottom of

of water in the river, or by an encreafe of earth
^hich was carried upon it from the continent b;

par of the plants which are to be met with here
wnr taT/r ';■>' ^"'J" '' g'^rs-wort. fea milfc-

Xh ,h ■ tf-^ P"'*^ +• «"» ^^«° I have
aiivcd the inhabitants, whether they find /hdls

m the ground by digging for wells, they always

.nAvered m the negative. I received the fame

nfwer from thofe who live in the low fields

■redly north of ^ueiec. and all agreed, th« they

Wndl of" k"^'']-'"8 by digging, but different
Kinds of earth and fand.

It is remarkable, that there is generally a

£r Ti '" '""l ^'y f-™ "-'« - 'he river!
wh.ch rifes from the high mountains; covered
WKh tall woods, with which it is furrounded on
every fide but one. For example, when the

f Salicornla. QIjuv p:r..^ .•._•

Vol. JL 2 . • j

• Wind

A,. ^

i I

(!'

m

iiii'

111

338

J^iigujl 1749.

Wind comss from the river, it ftrikes againft
one of the mountains at the entrance of the bay.
it is refleded, and confequently takes a diredlion
quite different from what it had before.

I FOUND fand of three kinds upon tht fliorcj
one is a clear coarfe fand, confifting of angulated
grains of quartz, and is very common on the
ihore^ the other is a fine black fand, which I
have likewife found in abundance on the fhores
of lake Champlain *, and which is common all
over Canada, Almoft every grain of it is at-
traded by the magnet. Befides this, there is a
garnet coloured fand f , which is likewife very
iine. This may owe its origin to the garnet
coloured grains of fands which are to be found in
all the flones and mountains here near the (here.
The fand may have arifen from the crumbled
pieces of feme ftones, or the ftones may have
been compofed of it. I have found both this
and the black fand on the fhores. in feveral parts
of this journey ; but the black fand was always
the mort plentiful.

Auguji 3 ifl. All the high hills in the neigh-
bourhood lent up a fmoke this morning, as from
a charcoal-kiln.

Gnats are innumerable here i and as foon as
one looks out of doors, they immediately attack
him ; and they are ftill worfe in the woods.
They are exactly the fame gnats as our common
Swedijlj ones, being only fomewhat lefs than the
North- American gnats all are. Near Fort St,

* See p. 199. of this volume,
t See p. 199. of this volume.

Jean,

«ifi

% Sf. Paul.

Z29

Jean, I have ikewife feen on,., f t
lame with ours b,u thl ^ ^' "^^""^ ^"« 'he
almoft of the fize of 7 ""'' ^"T^'^^' "^'^g^^.
which are here are beLn; "''"'"^'« *" ^^^^^
However. I comfor.lH /T/'!!'' """^'I-Wrftv.

orthe.dkp;trwr:r;r£v^^'-=

told, there Jere HIv r JT'', '"'•''"' ^'^ ^^'■«
what below bav 5/ P / '"'"*'• 5°™^"

'and. which Zms ZtZ7T' ' "''^ °f
compact lime-ftone iv^nlin I- •^'^^' P'""'^

-oft perpendicularfli ^ "feet'^7/ -^ t
a variety of the black lime-fla'eT Th a'^ ^
d'P to the fouth-eaft, ^d b,fll» '''

north-weft The »h; i, V . °"' '" 'he

to fifteen l^chls^ wSlhf 'ft"' "' ''r, '-
it has a ftrone fmell ^t a- ■ Z""" '' ^^"ken,
as before, to the weftern ftore of fhV ■ ^ '
which confifts of nothin/huA '■"'^'■'

and rocks. The river ;,n . i K "'"""'^ins
miles broad here Now" /k°'' '^"'' ^^'-'"'''
ftripes in the rock of fi u '" ^'^ ^°"'d fee
y '" "'E rocJc, of a fine wh te. lont r,^-

' ^"^ ' ^^^^ ^Ody, ^Vc'/r^j" ; the foot.

* '^y-ula ho.

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Augujl 1749.

ukhka-, a Httle boat, ufii a (hip, nahlkoan\ fire,
Jkute\ hay, maJkoefee\ the hare, ivhabus^
(they have a verb, which exprefTes the adlion
of hunting hares, derived from the noun) ; the
marten, whabifiams\ the elk, moofu'^ (but fo
that the .final u is hardly pronounced) j the rein-
deer, attickw, the moufc, mawituljis. TheJ^-
fuit who told me thofe particulars, likewife in-
formed me, that he had great reafon to believe,
that, if any Indians here owed their origin to
Tataria, he thought the Algonkins certainly did;
for their language is univerfally fpoken in that
part of North'' America which lies far to the
wcH of Canada, towards AJia. It is faid to be
a very copious language ; as for example, the
verb tc go upon the ice, is entirely different in
the Algonkin from to go upon dry land, to go upon
the mountains, &c.

Late at night we arrived at ^erre £ Ehouk"
menty which is twenty-two French miles from
^tebeCy and the lafl cultivated place on the
weflern fhore of the river *S/. Laivrtnce. Ths
(^ountry lower down is laid to be fo mountain-
ous, that no body can live in it, there not being
a fingle fpot of ground, which could be tilled.
A little church, "b<flonging to this place, flands
on the fhore, near the water.

* The famous mvnf-dcer is acccrdinply nothing butran elk; for
no one can deny the derivnticn oi tncofe-^eer form fnooju. Con-
fjdering cfpecially, thac before the Ii-osuefe or Five Nations grew
tp that power, which they at prefent have all over 'North- Amvica,
the Aigonhn^ wzxG then the leading nation among the Indians, and
their language was of courfe then a mod imiverral language over
the greater part of No- th- America ; and though they have been
very nearly deftroyed by the Iroiupfey their language is ftiil more
unlverfai m Canut/n, ih&ii aoy of the reft. F.

2 No

Terre d'Ehoukment

341

li^

No walnut-trees grow near this village, nor
,are there any kinds of them further north of
this place. At bay St. Paul, there are two or
three walnut-trees of that fpecies which the
£;?iV//?> call butter-nut-trees; but they are looked
upon as great rarities, and there are :io others in
the neighbourhood.

Oaks of all kinds, will not grow near this
place, nor lower down, or further north.

Wheat is the kind of corn which is Town
in the greateft quantities here. The foil is
pretty fertile, and they have fomctimes got
twenty-four or twenty^fix bufhels from one,
though the harveft is generally ten or twelve
fold.^ The bread here is whiter than any where
elfe in Canada,

Tkey fow plenty of oats, and it fucceeds
better than the wheat.

They fow likewife a great quantity of peas,
wh-ich yield a greater encreafe than any corn ;
and there are examples cf its producing an hun-
dred fold.

Hex^e are but few birds; and thofe that pafs
the fummer here, mi.Tate in autumn; fo that
there are no other birds than fnow-birds, red
partridges, and ravens, in winter. Even crows
do not venture to txpofe themfeiv cs to the rigours
of winter, but take flight in autumn.

The Bull-frogs live in the pools of this neigh-
bourhood. Fire-Jiies are liK-wife to be found
here.

Instead of candles, they make ufe of lamps
in country places, in which the burn train oil
Pf porpefTes, which is the common oil here.

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512

September 1749.

Where they have none of it, they fupply its
place with train-oil of feals. ^r / ^

• ^^J"'^' m!^' There was a woman with child
in this village, who was now in the fifty-ninth
year o. her age. She had not had the catamenia
during eighteen years. In the year 1748, fhe
got the fmall-pox, and now Oie was very big
bhe raid fhe was very well, and could feel the
inot.ons ot the fcEtus. She looked very well,
and had her huiband alive. This being an un-
common cafe, (he was brought to the royal
phyfician, M, Gaulthier, who accompanied us
on this journey.

At half an hour after feven this morninff we
went down the river. The country near hrre
d EOoulement is high, and confifts of hills of a
Joofe mould, which ]y in three or four rows
above each other, and are al) well cultivated,
and mo% turned into corn-fields 5 thou'^h
there are likewife meadows and paftures. *"

The great earthquake which happened in
Canada m February, 1663, and which is men-
tioned by Charlevoix^, has done confiderable
damage to this place. Many hills tumbled down •
and a great part of the corn-fields on the loweft
hills were deflroyed. They fhewed me feveral
little iflands, which arofe in the river on this
occauon.

There are pieces of black lime-ilate fcattered
on thofe hills, which confifl of mould. For the
Ipace of eight French miles along the fide of the
river, there is not a piece of lime-flate to be feen^

* ^^^\^i^ Hipirt de la l^owville France, Tom. \l, p. m. ,25.

but

I>

Terre d*Eboulemente.

343

but inftead of it, there are high grey mountain?,
confifting of a rock ftone, which' contain > a pur-
pie and a chryftaline quartz, mixed with lime-
Itone, and black glimmer. The roots of thefe
mountains go into the water. We now begin
to fee the lime-flates again.

Here arc a number of Terns*, which fly
about, and make a noife along the (hore.

The river is here computed at about four
Fr^«^// miles broad.

On the fides of the riVer, about two French
miles mland, there are fuch terraces of earth as
at Terre d* Eboulement s but foon after they are
fucceeded by high difagreeable mountains.

Several brooks fall into the river here, over
the fteep fliores, with a great noife. The (hores
are fometimes feveral yards high, and confifts
either of earth, or of rock-ftone.

One of thefe brooks, which flows over a hill
of hme-ftone, contains a mineral water. It has
a ftrong fmell of fulphur, is very clear, and does
not change its colour when mixed with gall-
apples. If it is poured into a filver cup, it looks
as It the cup was gilt; and the water leaves a
lediment of a crimfon colour at the bottom,
ihe Itones and pieces of wood, which ly in the
water, are covered with a flime, which is pale
grey at the top, and black at the bottom of the
Itone. Tnis flime has not much pungency, but
tafles like oil of tobaco. My hands had a ful-
phureous fcnell all day, becaufe I had handled
lome of the llimy ftoncs.

• Sterna hirundo^ Linn.

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September 1749,

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The black hmc-flatc now abounds again, neap
the level of the water. It lies in ftrata. which
are placed almoft perpendicularly near each
other, inchuing a little towards W, S. W
Each itratumis between ten and fifteen inches
thick. Mofl of them are fliivcred into thia
leaves at the top, towards the day, but i.i the
inlide. whither neither fun, nor air and water
can penetrate , they are clofe and compad. Some
of thcfe ftones are not quite blavk, but have a
greyifh cafh

About noon we arrived at Cap aux Oyes, or
Gee/e Cape, which has |WPbably got its name
irom the number of wild geefe which th^ French
found near it, on their firft arrival in Canada
Atprefent we faw neither geefe, nor any kind
ot biras here, a fingle raven excepted. Here
we were to examine the renowned metallic veins
in the mountain ; but found nothing more than
fmall veins of a fine white fpar, containing a few
fpecks of lead ore. Cap aux Oyes is computed
twenty-two, or twenty-five French rt>iles diftant
Irom ^uehec, I was moft pleated by finding
thamoitof the plants are the fame as grow iii
Sweden; a proof of which I ihall produce in the
lequel. •

' The fand-reed * grows in abundance in the
fand. and prevents its being blown about by the
wind. ^

^1 HE ^a-lime grafs f likewife abounds on the
Ihores, Eoth it and the preceding plant are

* Arundo armaria Linn,
■f Eljmus arenarius Jiina.

called

Cap atix Oyes,

345

called Seigle de mcr * by the French. I have
b.en aff-u.ed rh,u fhdc plants grow in fire«
fl.nty ,n N.^jou„San<i, and on other Wh.
Mencan /l.orcs ; the pbces covered with S

S7' 'f ■" '^i'^""^'^ ''ke corn-fields wS
m.gl . rxpla.n the p^fTaoe .in our northerrS
counts or ^^^(xcellM-winc^land^, which men
..on. that rh.y had iound whd.fi Id 'of wheat
growing wild. . , " "' wcai

The Tea -'c plantain % [3 very freanent on
I *«= "'°^'l- The F,.«.vi boil its leL'n a broA
on the,r Tea- vovage.. or eat them as a fallad it
I may l,k. w.ii be picicled !,ke fan^phire.

lhJ"Vh^;^"■""l ^"^"^ '" Sre« abundance
her. The/„^-^«,, ^7^,,,./ ^ ,■„ .^^ _d /

m thofe part, of iV.r//; .^,,,,/,^ i,hi,h J have

S t"h ''^T H'^Momi, and m,x the leave!
I With tobaccc3 for^their ufe

ant IK re. The French call it Z^^^r/.r ahH
broth, to give it a pJcdknt ta/}e.- • ■

mon. it^ roct is pounded, mixed with flour
|and eaten here, when there isa fcarcity of bread!

Itkolcriw.^IfLtna'vifj/^ « the name *vhich

covered Jong before Sg ^''V''' ^^'"'"' ^^^^^ ^^^X dif.
''f-./ Paris Zwrf /r/;/-^^^ ^^Tf'*.^ .^^-- >^-w' an^

! ^'•^«^«i wva urft, Linn. *
i %7r«^W^, Linn.
V ^*'./tfj <:«/f//?, Linn.

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WEBSTER N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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34^

September 1749.

^ Trite forb-tre^, or mountain -afli, the cran-
berry-buQi, the juniper-tree, the fea-fide peafe,
the Linnaa, and many other Swedifh plants, are
likewife to be met with here.
^, We returned to bay St, Pj«/to-day. A grey
feal fwam behind the boat for fome time, but
was not near enough to be fliot at.
f'Sept* 2d» This morning we went to fee the
filver or lead veins. They \y a little on the
fouth-fide of the mills, belonging to the priefts.
The mountain in which the veins ly, has the
fame conftituent parts, as the othei high grey
rocks in this place, viz. a rock-ftone compofsd
of a whitifli or pale grey lime-ftone, a purple or
almoft garnet-coloured quartz, and a black glim-
mer. The lime-ftone is in greater quantities
here than the other parts 5 and is is fo fine as to
be hardly vifible. It cfFervcfces very flrongly
with aquafortis. The purple or garnet-coloured
quartz is next in quantity 5 Hes fcattered in ex-
ceeding fmall grains, and ftrikes fire when ftruckj
with a fteel. The little black particles of glim-
mer follow next} and laft of all, the tranfpa-i
rent cryftalline fpeckles of quartz. There are
fome fmall grains of fpar in the lime-ftone. All
the different kinds of ftone are very well mixed
together, except that the glimmer now and then
forms little veins and lines: The ftone is very
hard j but when expofcd to fun-ftiine and the
open air, it changes fo much as to look quite
rotten, and becomes friable j and in that cafe, its|
conftituent particles grow quite undiftinguifh-
able. The mountain is quite full of perpendicu
clifts, in which the veins of lead-ore run fn

E. S. E,|

Bay St. Paul.

E. S,

347

Set JS:usr^;. j^^^

fem.d.apha„oos fpar. which work ve y ^
n . t there are fometimes ftripes of a fno wy wSfc

IZ'nfn' ^"y, "'■""'^ "'^^y^ vein, of ^ J-e"^
Kind of ftone hke quartz This fn^r k ^

cracks, and divides^ into fuch ; e£ as 0^^."^
"t .s „,uch rbfter. neverftrik^ fi : JnTZ{

10 the touch Tr f '^u' ""^ " ""' '"'""oA

toes ,n fpecks of an inch fquare, or brer

J «s generally very poor. ;a few places excepted
The veins of fo/t fpar. and other kinds of C'
r very narrow., and commonly from ten to
fteen inches broad. In a few Lees they a e
wenty .nches broad, and in one fingle oIa~
ST ""' ' '?^'- ^''^ "rook Scf „^

own fo d ep^ro'^ih '°""'^^'''«=™»». runs
uwn 10 Deep into the mounta n, that the Hif

tance from the fuq^mit of the hili; to the bottom

of

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34S

September 1749.

t)f the brook, is near twelve yards. Here ji
examined the veins, and found that they always!
keep the fame breadth, not encreditng near the!
bottom of the brook j and likewife, that they
are no richer below, than at the top. From
hence it may be cafily concluded, that it is not
worth while finking mines here. Of thefe veins
there are three or four in this neighbourhood,
'^t fome diftance from each other, but all of the!
fapie quality. The veins are almoft perpendi-
tiilar, fometimes deviating a little. When pieces]
of' the ^reen flione before-mentioned ly in the
W^ter," a great deal of the adherent white fpar
and lime-flone is confumed ; but the green ftone
remains untouched. That part of the veins
wliich is turned towards the air is always very
rbugh, becaufe the fun, air, and rain, havej
niouldcred a great part of the fpar and lime-
ftonej but the gjreen flonc has refifted theirj
attacks. They fometimes find deep holes in|
thefe veins, filled with mountain crvftrls. Th;
'greateft quantity of lead or filver ore is- to
fbund next to the rock, or tvcn on the Ciich o{
Vein. There are now and thdn Ihne grrjnsofl
■pyrites in the fpar, which have a fine g62d co-|
lour. The green fione when pourided, and put
cn a red-hot fliovel, burn's with a blue flame.I
'Some fay, they can then obferve a fulphureousj
fmell, which I 'could never perceive, though myj
fcnfe of fniellirjg is very perfett. When thisl
green ilone is grown quite red-hot, it loofes its!
green colour, and acquires a whitifli one, but!
•V^lll not citervcfce with aquafartiu

♦ ThjI

Bay St. Paul.

349

The fulphureous fprings (if I may fo call
tbem) are at the foot of the mountain* which
contains the filver, or lead ore. Several fprings
join here, and form a little brook. The water
jothofe brooks is covered with a white mem-
brane, and leaves a white, mealy matter on the
trees, and other bodies in its way; this matter
baJi a ftrong fulphureous fmell. Trees covered
with this mealy matter, when dried and let on
fire, burn with a blue flame, and emit a fmell
of fulphur. The water does not change by be-
ing mixed with gall-apples, nor does it change
blue paper into a diiferent colour, which is put
into it. It makes no good lather with foap.
Silver is tainifhed, and turns black, if kept in
this water for i little while. The blade of a
knife was turned quite black, after it had lain
about three hours in it. It has a difagrecabic
!ih>ell, which, they fay, it fpreads ftill more in
rainy weather. A number of grafshoppers were
klkn into it at prefent. The inhabitants ufed
this water, as a remedy againft the itch.

In the afternoon we fcnt to fee another vein,
which had been fpoken of as filver-ore. It lies
about a quarter of a mile to the north-eafl of
bay St.Pauly near a point of land called Cap an
Corbeau, clofe to the fliore of the nvtrSt, Law-
rence. The mountain in which thefe veins ly,
conlift of a pale red vitrefcent fpar, a black
glimmer, a pale lime-flone, purple or garnet-
coloured grains of quartz, and feme Mranfparent
quartz. Sometimes the reddilli vitrefcent fpar
IS the moft abundant, and lies in long ftripes of
fmall hard grains. Sometimes the fine black

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35^ September 1749.

glimmer abounds more than the remaining cob-

Itituent parts 5 and thefe two laft kinds of ftone

generally run in- alternate ftripes. The white

hme-ftone which conlifts of almoft invifible

particles, is mixed in among them. The

garnet-coloured quartz grains appear here and

there, and fometimes form whole ftripes. They

are as big as pin's heads, round, fhining, and

ftrike fire with ftcel. All thefe ftones are very

bard, and the mountains near the fea confift

entirely of them. They fometimes ly in almoft

perpendicular ftrata, of ten or fifteen inches

.thicknefs* The ftrata, however, point with

their upper ends to the north-weft, and go up-

wards from the river, as if the water, which is

clofe to the fouth.eaft fide of the mountains,

bad forced the ftrata to lean on that fide. Thefe

mountains contain very narrow veins of a white,

and fometimes of a greenifti, fine, femidiapha-

nous, foft fpar, which crumbles eafily into

grains. In this fpar they very frequently find

fpecks, which look like a calamine blend*.

Now and then, and but very feldom, there is a

grain of lead-ore. The mountains near the

fhore confift fometimes of a black fine-grained

horn-ftone, and a ferruginous lime-ftonef The

horn-ftonein that cafe is aly/ays in three or four

times as great a quantity as the lime-ftone.

In this neighbourhood there is likewife a
fulphureous fpnng, having exadly the fame
qualities as'that which 1 have before defcribed.

Liiin. by'X, Nat. III. p. ,26. Ed, Xii. ^

^ The

Bay St, Paul. ^K^

I The brbad-leaved Reed Mace * grows in the
very fpring, and fucceeds extremely well. A
mountain-afli flood near it, whofe berries were
of a pale yellow fading colour, whereas on all
other mountain-afhes they have a deep red
I colour. ^ ,.

They make great quantities of tar at baf
St. FauL We now paffed near a place in which
they burn tar, during fummer. It is cxadly
the fame with ours in Eaji-Bothnta, only fome-
what lefs ; though I have been told, that there
are fometimes very great manufadtures of it
here. The tar is made folely of the Pin rouge f
or red Pine. All other firs, of which here are
feveral kinds, are not fit for this purpofe, be-
caufe they do not give tar enough to repay the
trouble the people are at. They make ule of
the roots alone, which are quite full of refin,
and which they dig out of the ground -, and of
about two yards of the fi:em, juft above the
root, laying afide all the reft. They have not
I yet learnt the art of drawing the refin to one
jide of the tree, by peeling off the bark i at
leaft they never take this method. The tar-
barrels are but about half the fize of ours. A
ton holds forty-fix pots, and fells at prefent for
twenty-five francs at ^^ebec. The tar is rec-
koned pretty good.

The fand on the fhore of the river St Law-
rence, confifts in feme places of a kind of pearl-
land. The grains are of quartz, fmall and

• Typha latifolia, Linn,
termmatis, corns ovatis licvibus. Fkr. Canad.

fern id ia-

I .'

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352

! i

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j'iii'

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\\ 'I'Hiili

September 1749.

little particlM ofghmmer; and there are liU

find, which I have before defcribed, and wh ch
•bounds in Canada. • ^^

5f// 4th TVe rhountains hereabouts were
^vered wub , ver^ thick fog ,o-day. refemblin.
tlie fmoak of a char coal-Jciln. 4nyof thefc
inoont!i.n. art very high. During my ftay i„
Canada. I a/lced many people, who have travelled
tnuch ,n North-Amrka. whether they ever me.
^..h mountains fo high, that the ftow L"
melts on them in winteri to u-hich they always
.Dfwered .n the negative. They fay ihat ,h

foBie ot thofe between 0«^^a and the £«.M

but°"tW ^TS " S^-^" P"" °^ ''»« '"^'«™'^
begins " "' ^°'"' '' "'^ 8'"' heat

„,f7^f^i.*:°""''y'"^" ^""^^ =•* "n"'!" flax as he
wants for h.s own ufe. They had already taken
» op feme time ago> and fpread it on the fields.
meadows, and paftures, in order to bleach it
it was very (hort this year in Canada.

TheV find iron-ore in feveral places here-
abouts. Alnioft a ^wedip mile from bay &t.

S 7 y ■'*"' '""""y" '•'*'^ '■' " "hole mouB-
tarn full of ,ron-ore. The country round it is

covered^Uh a thick foreft, and has many riv,-
^ets of different fizes, which feem to make the
erection ot iron-works very ea(y here. But the
government having as yet fuffcred very much
by the iron-works at rrois Rhieres, nobody

ventures

Petite Riviere. .,.

venture, ,o propbfe any thing further in that

Sept. 5tb. EARty this oiorninit we fet out
on our return to S^ebtc. We con.rJd our
journey at noon, notwithft.nding Se heaW
ram and thunder incommoded ul At tba^
u^e we were juft at Petite RiJere. and .be
■de beg,n„,ng ,„ ^^b. i, wa. impoffible for us

nH "P T'"'* "' "'^'•^fo^' we Jay by here
and went on fliore. ■' ' '

^ff"cf'"T, " » ''■"'« ""'"gf. on the
weitern fide of thp n'u*, c» r .

on a liffir • I V '• ^"'^'■"'-'f. and lies

name Th T '/' ^'■°'" '*''="" » "''^'' i"
name The houfes are built of ftone. and are

fi e Im)e church of ftone. To the weft of the

here T. ^ ^" '•"■" °' '""^ hours fooner
here than ordinary. The river St. Lawrence
3 nua ly cuts off a piece of land, on Kft
Kte of he Village, fo that the inhabitants f/ar

pollers here, which at moft is but a mujket

oil! i'Sfri!*'" °" '!:? f''"" ^^<= °f t^° kinds.

Une ,s a black one. which I have often men-

built. The other is generally black, and fome-
nmcs dark grey, and feems to be a fp^cies of

ii S A^ ■' "!''='* ^''''' ^ '^'^"^ here.
It ,s chiefly diftingmlhed from the former, by

being cut very eafily. giving a very white lime!
when burnt, and not eafily mouldering in.o

VOL. JI. A a A.-

■i|:'

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mini

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September 17*49.

(hivers in the air. The walls of the houfes
here are entirely made of this flate \ and like-
wife the chimnics, thofe places excepted which
arc expofed to the greateft fire, where they place
pieces of grey rock-ftone, mixed with a deal
of glimmer^ The mountains near Petite Riviere
confift merely of a grey rock-ftone, which is
entirely the fame with that which I defcribed
near the lead-mines of bay St. PauL The
foot of thefe mountains confifts of one of the
lime-flate kinds. A great part of the Canada
mountains of grey rock-ftone ftand on a kind
' of flate, in the fame manner as the grey rocks
of JVeJi'Gothland in Sweden.

Sept. 6th. They catch eels and porpefTes
here, at a certain feafon of the year, viz, at the
end of September, and durin^g the whole month
of OBober, The eels come up the river at that
time, and are caught in the manner I have be^
fore defcribed. They are followed by the por-
pefTes, which feed upon them. The greater
the quantity of eels is, the greater is likewiie
the number of porpefTes, which are caught in
the following manner. When the tide ebbs
in the river, the porpefTes commonly go down
along the fides of the river, catching the eels
which they find there. The inhabitants of this
place therefore ftick little twigs, or branches
with leaves, into the river, in a curve line or
arch, the ends of which look towards the (hore,
but ftand at fome diftance from it, leaving a
paflage there. The branches ftand about two
feet diftant from each other. When the por-
pefTes come amongft them, and perceive the

ruflling

Between Petite Riviere and ^ebec. 3^5

fuming the water makes with the leaves, they
dare not venture to proceed, fearing left there

S ,^? "'''•'' 't' ."'«" has receded fo
or the ends of the arch, whofe movina leaves
fnghten them again. In this confufiSn the.
fwim backwards and forwards, till the water is

where .he inhaD.tants kill them. They give a
great quantity of train-oil. ^ ^ *

ein™f r,!''^ '^°'''. '" ." g'^y "^'"y' f»» °f ferru.
gmous cracks and pierced by worms. The

holes are fmall perpendicular, and big enough

to admit a middling pin. Their fides ie likl!

the clav'hfrK"'* '"'^ '?'"f-P""fi«d ' »nd where

nh,/ • .'''''= °';h^=-c°l<»ured ftumps of
tobacco-pipe tubes. ^

At noon we left P.<,V, Riwere, and continu-
ed our journey towards ^/. >^f,5;«.

Between Petite Riviere, which lies in a
.tie bay. and 5.. >..i,^, .he weftern fl,ore
of the nver St. Lawrence confifts of prominent
mountains, between which there are feveral
finall bays. They have found, by long expL-
r.ence, that there is always a wind on th^fe
mountains even when it is calm at Petiu
fo,ere. And when the wind is pretty high at
he aft-mentioned place, it is not^dvLwe to

m ,h^5"r '.'• ' '"'"' '^'' ^'"'J ^"d waves.

is W 'h r^ '"? •''Sh near thefe moun-

tiins. We had at prefent an opportunity of ex-

P^iencng u. In the creeks between the moun-

■^ ^ 2 tains.

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25^

• September 1749-

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tains, the water was almoft quite frqooth ; but
on our coming near one of the points formed by
the high mountains, the waves cncreafed, and
the wind was fo high, that two people were
forced to take care of the helm, and the mail
broke fevcral times. The waves are likewife
greatly cncreafcd by the Itrong current near
thofe points or capes.

Sept, yih, A little before noon, W€ con-
tinued our voyage from St. Joachim,

They employ trce-mulhrooms very frequent-
ly inftead of tinder. Thofe which are taken
from the fugar-maple are reckoned the beft;
thofe of the red maple are next in goodnefs;
and next to them, thofe of the fugar-birch.
For want of thefe, they likewife make ufe of
thofe which grow on the afp-tree or tremble.

TpERE are no other ever-green trees in this
part of Canada than the thuya, the yew, and
fpme of the fir kind.

The thuya is efteemed for refifling putre-
faftion much longer than any other woodj and
next in goodnefs to it is the pine, called penijl'c
.here. .jr-^j;

They mgke cheefe in feveral places here-
abouts. That of the ifle of Orleans is, how-
ever, reckoned the beft. This kind is fmall,
thin, and round ; and four of them weigh about
a French pound. Twelve of them fell for
thirty I'ols. A pound of fait butter cofts ten
folc at ^ebec, and of fie/h butter fifteen fols.
Formerly, they could get a pound of butter for
four fols here.

The
6

n, vft con-

Between Petite Riviere and ^ebec. 357

Thf corn-fidds towards the river arc flopine •
they are fuffered to \y fallow and to be iov^-n al-
ternately. The lowii ones looked ydlow at this
diftance, and the fallow ones green. The wreds
are left on the latter all fummcr, for the cattle
to teed upon.

The aHi wood furnifhes the heft hoops for
tuns here; and for want of it, they take the
thuya, Jjtfle birch- trecg, wild cherry-trees, and
others.

The hills near the river, on the weftern fide,
oppofite the ifle of Orleans, are rerv hi-h and
pretty Heep They confirt, in moft" parr, of
black lime-fl.ite. There are like^vifc fome fpots
which con fill: of a rock-flone, which, at firft
»ght, looks like a fand-flone, and is compofed
of grey quartz, a reddifii hme-ftone, a little
grey lime-rtone, and fome pale grey grains of
fand. Thefe parts of the ftone are fmall and
pretty equally mixed with each other. The
ftone looks red, with a greyifli cafi, and is very
hard. It lies in fi:rata, one above another. The
thicknefs of each ftratum is about five inches.
It IS remakable, that there are both elevated
and hollow imprefiions of pcdinites on the fur-
face, where one like wife medts with the petri-
fied fhells thenifclves; but on breaking the
ftone, it does not even contain the leaft vcftirre
of an imprefiion or petrified (h^W. All the im-
prefTions .ire fmall, about the Ifirgth and breadth
clan inch. The pinicnlar? o[ quartz in the
ftone ftrike fire with fteel, and the particulars
of hme-aone efilrvefce ilron-ly with aqr^a-
Jorfis, The upper and lower ^furfkcs of thu

A a 3 flrata

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3S8

September iy^<).

W

ftrata coniift of lime-ftonc, and the inner parts
of quartz. They break great quantities oi^this
ilone in order to build houfes of it, pave floors
with it, and make flair-cafes of it. Great quan-
tities of it are fent to ^ebec. It is remarkable,
that there are petrifa«:ons in this ftone, but
ntver any in the black lime-flates.

The .women dye their woollen yarn yellow
with feeds of gale *, which is called poivrier
here, and grows abundant in wet places.

This evening, M. Gaulthier and I went to
fee the water-fall at Montmorencu The coun-
try near the river is high and lerel, and laid out
into meadows. Above them the high and fteep
hills begin, which are covered with a cruft of
mould, and turned into corn-fields. In fome
M&x^ ftcep places, and near the rivulets, the hills
confift wf mere black lime-flate, which is often
crumbled into fmall pieces, like earth. All the
fields below the hills are full of fuch pieces of
lime-Hate. In Come more elevated places, the
earth confift^ of a pale red colour j and the lime.
jQates are likcwife reddifl).

The water-^fall tit2X Mont mor end is one of
the highell I ever fa w. It is in a river whofe
breadth i^ not very conliderable, and falls over
the {leap fideof a hil). confifting entirely of blark
hme-ilate. The fall'is, now at the bottom of a
little cieckofthcrivef. Both fides of the creek
confift merely of black lime-flate, which is very
much cracked and tumbled down. The hill of
lime-flate under the water-fall is quite perpendi-

* Uyrkagale, Linn.

cular,

L '*v^^"^:\>".

Montmorenci^

3i;9

oular. and one cannot look at it without aftoniih-
ment. The rain of the preceding days had en-
creafed the water in the river, which gave the
fa a grander appearance. The breadth of the
tall IS not above ten or twelve yards. Its per-
pendicular height Mr. (^aulthier and I gucffcd-to
be between a hundred and ten, and a hundred
and twenty ittx-, and on our return Xo.^ebec,
we found our guefs con^rmcd by feveral gentle-
men who had adtually meafiired the fall, and.
i«und It to be nearly as we had conjeaured.
iiie people who live in the neighbourhood ex-'
rggerate m their accounts of it, abfolutely dcclar-
iDg that It is three hundred feet high. Father
Uiarlemix ''^ is too fparing, in giving it only
forty feet in height. At the bottom of the fall
there is always a thick fog of vapours fpreadin^^
about the water, being refdved into theiij by
Its violent fall. This fog occafions almoft per-
petual rain here, which h more or le^ heavy,
in proportion to its diftance from the fall. Mr*
Gaulthier ,m^ myfelf, together with the man
who (hewed us the way, were willing to come
nearer tp the falling water, in order to examine
n?ore accurately how it came down from fuch a
height, and how the ftone behind the water
looked. But, being about tw.elve yards off the
fall, a fudden guil: of wind blew a thick fog up-
on us, which, in lefs than a minu|e, had wet us
?. thoroughly as if we had \yalkcd for half an
hour in a heavy a^ower. Wc therefore hurried
away as faft as we could. The noife of the

See hii Bipirt dt U Nouv, France^ torn,

y. p. m, 100.

fall

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September iy^4g»

fall IS ibmelioaes heard at ^eSec, which is two
i^r^c^ miles oiFto the |btithward ; and this is a
fign of .a norih-eaft wind. At other times, it
can be well heard in the villages, a good way
low^r to the north j and it is then reckoned an
iindQuhte4 fig^i of. a fouth-weft wind, or of rain
The black lime-.flate on the fides of the fall lies
111 dipping, and almoft perpendicular ftrata. In
thefe hcnc-nate ftr^ta are the following kinds of
ftone to bemet withicf

Fibrous .gyp/um *. This lies in very thin
leaves between the cracks of the lime-flate. Its
colour is a fnowy white. I have found it in fe-
veral parts of Canada, in the fame black lime-
ftone.

Pierre a Calumet, This i« the Prench name
of a ftoi^e difpofed in ftrata between the lime-
llate, and of which they make almoft all the to-
bacco-pipe heads in the country. The thick-
nefs of the ftrata is different. I have feen pieces
near fifteen inches thick; but they are common-
ly between four andEvo inches thick. When
the ftone is long expofcd to the open air or
heat of the fun, it gets a yellow colour; but in
the infidc it is gr^j. It is a lime.ftoneof fuch
a compad:nefs, that its particles are not diftin-
guifl)ab]e by the naked eye. It is pretty foft
and win bear cutting with a knife. From this
quality, the people like wife judge of the goodnefs
of theftone for tobacco-pipe heads ; for the hard
pieces of it are not fo fit for ufe as the fofter

• Gypfum amantiform, JValkr, Mm. Germ. ed. p. 74. Fihrcus

ones.

i'^eiee'.

361

ones I have feen fome of thefe ftones fhiverins
into thin leaves an the ou.fide, where they wer!
expafed to the fun. All the tobacco pipe C
wh.ch the common people in Canada make afe
of, are made of this ftone. and are ornamented
|n different ways. A g^eat part of the gentry
kewife make dfe of the*, efpeeially When
.hey are on ^a journey. The /„£« hare em-
ployed th.s ftone for thfe fame purpofes far fe^-

The heads of the tobaccto-pipes are naturally of
lhnt,r^"°'''"''' ''"' '^'y 're blackened
better. They cover the head all over with

any other fife, by which means it gets a good
buck colour, which is encreafed by frequent
:td ?'*"''«''f 'he pipes are always mS

Thekb sre^iio coal* heaV^ this fall, dr in the

n the netghbounng village fliewed me a'^piL

of coal which, they faid. they had found on

one of the hills about the fait, ^'-v- .

We arrived at ^ueiec vfery late' at night. ■

^f?t. 8. Intermitting fevers of all kinds

are very rare at ^eiec. as' Mr. GauMkr affirms.

» All _ , ' ■ :'• ff ;..',•. <^-vi ji4j.!>ij i.ij>V'

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3^2

September 1749.

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On the contrary, they are very common near
Fort St.Frederici and near Fort Detroit , which
is ^French colony, between Lake Erie and Lake
HuroHy in forty-three degrees north latitude.

Some of the people of quality make ufe of
ice-cellars, to keep beer cool in, during fummer,
and to keep frefli fleih, which would not keep
long ill the great heat. Thefe ice-cellars are
CQjpmonly built of ftone, under the houfe. The
walls of it are covered with boards, becaufe the
ic€ is more eafily confumed by ftones. In winter
they fill it with fnow, which is beat down with
the feet, and covered with water. They then
open the cellar holes and the door, to admit the
cold. It is cuftomary in fummer to put a piece
of ice into the water or wine which is to be
drank.

All the fait which is made ufe of here is im-
ported from France, They can make good fait
here of the fea water ; but France keeping the
fait trade entirely to itfelf, they do not go on
with it here.

The Efquimaux are a particular kind of Ame-
rican favages, who live only near the water, and
never far in the country, on Terra Labrador, be-
tween the mofl outward point of the mouth of
the river St, 7 awrence and Hudfons bay. I
have never had an opportunity of feeing one of
them. I have fpoken with many Frenchmen who
have feen them, and had them on board their
own veflels. I {hall here give a brief hiftory of
them, according to their unanimous accounts.
The EJquimmix are entirely different from

com-

*1-i.i>
«(i(^

^eBec.

3*3

complexion and their language. They are al-
moft as white as Europeans, and have little eves •
the men have likewife beards. The Indians, on
ihe contrary, are copper-coloured, and the men
have no beards. The£/^a^Wa* language is ftid
to contain fome European worAs * Their
houfes are_- cither caverns or clefts in the moun-
tamc, or huts of turf above grounj. Thev ne
ver fow or plant vegetables, living chiefly on va-
nous kinds- of whales, on feals f, and wal-
rulles J. Sometimes they likewife catch land
animals, on which they feed. They eat moft of
their meat quite raw. Their drink is water-
and people have likewife feen them drinking the
fea- water, which was like brine.

Their Ihoes, ftockings, breeches, and jackets,
are made of feal-fkins well prepared, and fewed
together with nerves of whales, which maybe
iwifted like threads, and are very tough. Their
cloaths.the hairy fide of which is turned out
wds, arc fewed together fo well, that they can
JO up to their (houlders in the water without
«tting their under cloaths. Under their upp"
jcloaths. they wear fliirts and waiftcoats made of

t P&oca <vitulina. Linn.
X ^riihcthus rojvmrits. Linn.

feals

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3^4

September 1749.

;)S'

',! II,

* , *

I.I'

feals ikins, pfcparcd fo Well as t6 be quite foft,
I faw one of their womcns dreflcs ; a cap, a
waiftcoat, and coat, made all of one piece of feal's
fkin well prepared, foft to the touch, and the
hair on the outfide.. There, is a long train be-
hind at their coats, which fcarce reach them to
the middle of the thigh before ; under it they
wear breeches and boots, all of one piece. The
(hirt I faw was likewife made of a very foft feal's
fkin. The Efquimaux women are faid to be
handfomer than any of the American Indian wo-
men, and their hufbands are accordingly more
jealous in proportion.

I HAVE likewife fcen an Efquimaux boat. The
outfide of it confifts entirely of fkins, the hair of
which has been taken off; and the fides of the
fkins on which they were inferted are turned
outwards, and feel as fmooth as vellum. The
boat was near fourteen feet long, but very nar-
row, and very (harp-pointed at the extremities.
In the infide of the boat they place two or
three thin boards, which give a kind of form
to the boat. It is quite covered with ikins at
the top, excepting, near one ehd, a hole big!
enough for a iingle perfon to fit and row in, and
keep his thighs and legs under the deck. The
figure of the hole refembles a femi-circle, the I
bafe or diameter of which is turned towards the
larger end of the boat. The hole is furroundedi
with wood, on which a foft folded fkin is faft-|
ened with ftraps at its upper end. When thej
Efquimaux makes ufe of his boat, he puts his j
legs and thighs under the deck, fits down at thej
bottom of the boat, draws the Ikin before-men-
tioned]

^ebec*

3^5

floned round his body, and faftens it well with

the ftraps j th

th(

over

waves
boat with confiderable violence, and not a fingle
drop comes into ^ the clothes of ,he Efgli.
mux keep the wet from him. He has an oar
m h.s hand, which has , paddle at each end "it

boat in equihbnum during a ftorm. The^^paddles

Uin but a Cngle perfon. E/juimaux have often

ltd i • f ' ' n'^^'^ '=°'" '"""y ■»"« from
and. 0 violent ftgrms. where (bL found it

ifficah ,0 fave .hemfelves. Their boats floa
on the waves hke bladders, and they row them
with incredible velocity. I am told they have
'boats of different ihapes. They have likewife
larger boats of wood, covered with leather, in
which feveral people may fit, and in which their
women commonly go to fea.

Bows and arrows, javelins and harpoons, are
their arms. Wuh the laft they kill whales, and
other large marine animals. The points of their
arrows and harpoons are ilmetimes made of iron,
ometimes of bone, and fometi^es of the teeth

it "rr^'- J^'''M''^'' "e made of feals
lUns The needles with which they fow their
cloa hs are hkewife made of iron, or of bone.

They fomctimcs go on board the'Sr.)^
fli<ps. in order to exchange fome of their poods
0 kn.ves and other iron. But it is not advife-
ame lor Europeans to go on fliore. unleft thev
^e numerous , tor the E/^m„iaux are fall'e and

treache-

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366

September 1749.

fi'i

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8

treacherous, and cannot fufFer flrangcrs artiortgft
them. If they find themfclves too weak, they
run away at the approach of flrangers; but if
they think they are an over-match for them,
they kill all that come in their way, without
leaving a fingle one alive. The Europeans,
therefore, do not venture to let a greater number
of EJquimaux come on board their fliips than
they can eafily mafter. If they are fhip-wreck-
cd on the EJquimaux coafts, they may as well
be drowned in the fea as come fafc to the (here;
this many Europeans have experienced. The
European boats and (hips which the Efquimaux
get into their power, arc immediately cut in
pieces, and robbed of all nails and other iron,
which they work into knives, needles, arrow-
heads, &c. They make ufe of fire for no other
purpofes but working of iron, and preparing the
fkins of animals. Their meat is eaten all raw.
When they come on board an European ftiip,
and are offered fome of the failors meat, they
never will tafte of it till they have feen fome
Europeans t2X it. Though nothing pleafed other
favage nations fo much as brandy, yet many
Frenchmen have aflbred me, that they never
could prevail on the Efquimaux to take a dram
of it. Their mirtruft of other nations is the
caufe of it; for they undoubtedly imagine that
they are going to poifon them, or do them fome
hurt; and I am not certain whether they do
not judge right. They have no ear-rings, and
do not paint the face like the American Indians.
For many centuries paft they have had dogs
whofe ears are erected, and never hang down.

They

^keiec.

267

They make ufe of them for hunting, and Inftead
of horfes in winter, for drawing their goods on
the ice. They themfclves fometimes ride in
fledges drawn by dogs. They have no other
domeftic animal. There are indeed plenty of
rein-deer in their country ; but it is not known
that either the Efquinmux^ or any of the Indians
in America^ have ever tamed them. The French
in Canada, who are in a manner the neighbours
of the Efqmmaux, have taken a deal of pains to
carry on fome kind of trade with them, and to
endeavour to engage them to a more friendly
intercourfe with other nations. For that pur-
pofe they took fome Efquimaux children, taught
them to read, and educated them in the beft
manner poffible. The intention oiKh^ French
was, to fend thefe children to the Efquimaux
again, that they might inform them of the kind
treatment \\\^French had given them, and there-
by incline them to conceive a better opinion of '
the French, But unhappily all the children died
of the fmall-pox, and the fchcme was dropt.
Many perfons in Canada doubted whether the
fcheme would have fucceeded, though the chil-
dren had been kept alive. For they fay, there
vas formerly zv\ Efquimaux taken by the French^
and brought to Canada, where he ilaid a good
while, and was treated with great civility. He
learnt French prerty well, and feemed to reliili
the French way of living very well. When he
was fcnt back to his countrymen, he was not
able to make the leaft impreiTion on them, in
favour of the French j but was killed by his
lieareil; relations, as half a Frenchman and fo-
reigner.

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3^^ September 1749.

rcigncr. This inhuman proceeding of the Ef
qutmaux againft ali Grangers, h the reafon why
none of the Indians q{ Norths America ever give
quarter to the Efquimaux if th«y meet with
them, but kill them on the fpot j though they
frequently pardon their other enemies, and in-
corporate the prifoAcrs into their nation.

For the ufe of thofc, who are fond of com-
paring the languages of fcveral nations, I have
here mfertcd a few Efquimaux words, commu-
nicated to mc by the Jefuit &aint Pie. One
kombucv two, tigali three, U -, four, mifRla^
gat ; water, fi/ia/okta ; rain, ii//a/uci ,• heaven
^ffff^\ or nabugakjhei the fun, Jhikonak, or
Jakaknuk'y the moon, takocky an egg. mameguk-
the boat, kagack^ the oar, pacotick-, the knife
Jhavtei a dog, mekke, or timilok^ the bow, ;)^//i.'
Jick', an arrow, itf//&Mhe head, niakocki the
^^T, tchtui the eye, >t///r;*, or>;^; the hair, ;;«/-
fiadi a tooth, w/^^^; the foot, itikat. Some
think that they are nearly the fame nation with
the Greenlanders, or Skraiingersi and pretend
that there is a great affinity in the language *.

Plumb-trees of dif^rent forts, brought
over from^ France, fucceed very well here. The
prefent year they did not begin to flower till this
month. Some of them looked very well i and
I am told the winter does not hurt them.

f irif'

• The above account of the E/qumaux may be compared with
Henry Elu^sJ.count ,^^ ^ Voyage to Hud/onh Bay, By the Dobh
Galey and Ca.tforn.a, &c. ani The Account of a Foyaz» for thi

%JL ff'"'f'TT ^i'^-^"' ^"d laftiy. which CrW5
ii'Jttryo/ Greenland. Two Fols, Zvo. F.

• Sept,

^iebec.

o£ the m^
I reafbn why
ka ever give

meet with
though they
ic8^ and in-
ion.

>nd of com-
ons, I have
Is, comtnu-
Pie. One,
'Ur, miffila-
k; heaven,
Qjikonak, or

manneguk',
\ the knife,
bow, petik-
iakock', the
e hair, nut-
kat. Some
oation with
nd pretend
nguage *.
5, brought
bere. The
ver till this

welli and
em.

compared with
» iy the Dobbs
Voyagt for the
Ins, by the Clerk
^hich Crantz'i

^^pt* nth. Th

1^9

E mai

ffl

quis de Ja Galifomiiere
othe'rT K '"*" •"'?, "o^i^^mcn, who, above all

ftaf„r- J* -- ^ "'■'* °^ ''"='= was of a low
ftature. and fomewhat bump-backed. 4 E

ence r„T7 ''"^'^^ i" =■" branches of J"

fpeak w^,h V^"^' '''" "'•^'^n he began to

Teat r ""^ ''''°"' "' I •'""gin^d I fa«r our
S ffThT; ""/^' "^ "="' f'-"- When he

of a coumf; 7'' ""P^'"^ " '° """"^ 'he ftate
hfs r.,f •^' ' "'^' afton.flicd to fee him take

lofoohv T P°';''"' "' "'^" ^^ natural Jht

adeal nf rf?',''"*""'' ""'* ^ always drew
mefelc«,"i2 ^,"°^'fg^ f-'» "• He told

power/iS in f /°''""' "nd to make a country

Asfrln 1 " "*'" ^''«'' have his eqJal here

formatinn • "°^^ meafures for gettin? in-

had fnr f ■ • . W**^" he faw people, who

counS T "T ^"'"J" ^ fettled place of .he

;Ll?K!"fl»".'''orc parts, he always qucftio^ed

fol.ll. ' ^ ' ''"'''' "°""' "'■«'

' . ■" " animals.

!• i

m

!,

lil.

(I

370 Septembtr iy^()»

animals, 6cc. of rhc place. He likcwife cnqu?-
re?J what ufc the inhabitants made of thcfe
things; in what (late their hulbandry was; what
lakes, fivers, and paffagcs there are; and a num-
ber of other particulars. Thofe who feemed to
have clearer notions than the reft, were obliged
to give him circumftantial defcriptions of what
they had fcen. He himfelf wrote down all the
accounts he had received; and by thh great
application, fo uncommon amoag ptrlons of his
rank, he foon acquired a knowledge of the mod
diftant parts of America. The priefts, com-
mandants of forts, and of feveral diftarjt places,
arc often furprized by his queflions, and wonder
at his knowledge, when they come io^ebec to
pay their vifits to him ; for he often tells them
that near fuch a mountain, or on fuch a (horc,
&c. where they often went a-hunting, there
are fome particular plants, trees, earths, ores,
&c. for he had got a knowledge of thofe things
before. From hence it happened, that fome of
the inhabitants believed he had a preternatural
knowledge of things, as he was able to
mention all the curiofities of places, fometimes
near two hundred Swedip miles from ^eSec,
though he never was there himfelf. Never was
there a beti^. '^i*»wfman than he j and nobody
can take be ; ?v fures, and choofe more pro-
per means for improving a country, and encreaf-
ing. its welfare. Canada vizs hardly acquainted
with the treafure it poffefTed in the perfon of
this nobleman, when it loft him again; the king
wanted his fervices at home, and could not
leave him fo far off. He was going to France
8 with

Ill

Siuehec. .

with a coUcaion of natural corfo/Ities. .nA
of earth. ^ ^ " '"^ ^^""'^'. ^" toxes full
The black lime-flate has h<-,.n .

"cgivc a more minute detai of it tu
mountain on which Sluehec is hi |r ^ l"
hills along the river V/ 7 ' ""'' *''=

About o ,„ J f '"geincr, on both fides of Stiebfr
About a yard from the furface thi^ ftnn, ^'"'"^'

compaa. and without any c acj -b^l^'^"'"'
cannot Derceiv^ .t,,. ■. ^^ ""'^''S; io that one

being imperc ntible t V • "a"' '" P^"'^'"
from three nrf!, I' ''" '" '^"'^' ^^^'^h vary

upwards \n tj^^^V' '° '""="''' 'h'^-'^' ""^
built, the foata do no", l'"r" ^■'''^'' ^"'^"^ '»
pin?, fo a ,o K / honzontal, but dip-

havelikewife Ln fo^.M , ■ ,'" P'""' '
northward bn,n/r'"' '""''"'"S '° «be

mer Ho'rizolal Safr'''"'""'f "' ''« f°'-
occurred to me oo The^ft "'"'^ ^"'^''' '^^^'=
narrow crackTMv k '^"" "= ^'^'''=d by

fibrouT white 'j£ are commonly filled with

gatioofe w h aTnJr'if?he^ "" '°T"™" ''«
late above it is brok'.n ^^" orftratum of

cafe it has Jhl , '" P'^"' ' ^"'^ '" 'hat

"e t Has the appearance of a thin white leaf
The large cracks are almoft filled up wVh tra„r

he ZT\ •'^'*^''' °^ '^'«^--' fi-r On/: ';

or the mountain contains v^^i- o.,.^.:.:-- .r.r "
«7'tals, from which the corner of the mountain

\\

\

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■

if''

■

'■' f

■

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^

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if

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M

372 September 1749.

which lies tc the S. S. E. of the palace, has
got the name of Poiftte de Diamante, or Dia-
mond Point. The fmall cracks which divide
the ftone, go generally at right angles; the
diftarices between them are not always equal.
The outfide of the ftratum, or that which is
turned towards the other ftratum, is frequently
covered with a fine, black, fliining membrane,
which looks like a kind (^i a pyrous horn-ftone.
In it there is fometimes a yellow pyrites, always
lying in fmall grains. I never found petrifac-
tions or inpreffjons, or other kinds of ftone in
it, hefides thofe I have juft mentioned. AlnioR
all the public and private buildings at ^lebcc
confiil of this lime-flate; and likewife the walls
round the town, and round the monafleries and
gardens. It is eafily broken, and cut to the fize
wanted. But it has the property of fplitting in-
to thiu fl:iivers, parallel to the furface of the
flratum from whence they are taken, after lying
during one or more years in the air, and expofed
to the fun. However, this quality does no da-
mage to the walls in which they are placed; fori
the ftcnes being laid on purpofe into fuch a
pofition that the cracks always run horizontally,
the upper ftones prefs fo much upon the lowerl
ones, that they can only get craks. outwardly,!
and fhiver only on the outfide, without going|
further inwards. The fliivers always gro\
thinner^ as the houfes grow older.

In order to give my readers fome idea of tbe
climate of ^ebcc, and of the different change^
of heat and cold, at the feveral feafons of tlii
year, I will here infcrt iomc particulars cxtrauc

im

^iehec.

S ZSrS^J;''-^' of the
-opy of thofe which he h^H""; '^^ ^ave me a
744. .0 the end of J/j '"f''' ^^""^ O^^^^'"
thermometrical ohkT.J^T^'-':, ' 746- The
I do not think them aceuT/ "'r °'"''' ''^""'"<=
//5/Vr made ufe oUeZlit^^-'t '' ^'- ^''"^-
degrees of cdd cannot f '1^°™='=^ 'I's
'he quicMlver beTn. dL n-T-"^'^ determined,
the bottom, as S a? tf T, "^= S'°''= «
confiderable. Th " Ir ""'"^ ''^S">s to be
throughout the year T, '"?' "^« made

- 'he^orning ^Z u ^Tr^d tht" ^ ^^ht
noon. He ha<; f^l^^ . ^"^^^ ^'^ ^^e after-

the afternoon WsT"^' '"^ obfervations ia
inaccurate, by faei^L '""■""'neter was likewife
°ybe.ngpIacedanabadfituation.

The year 174^.

^ec. In the obryaln^f'"' u '"' "'" ^«'-
obrerved. that th Ti ° / if r°'''" >'""' '' '^
•^i'h ice in the beg ; , n„' '(T'""'' '°''''^
end of December. ^ "'°S "f January, or the

the';trrro7thrmrnTh"'^"^ '^PP^^-^ ''"-S

wiS-eyTt'f/f^r'' '"^" '''^ -'deft

'could not remember onrr ''^'./''^^^ P"^"^

was only two fee'deep and thT'"- " "^^ ^"°-

|rtenS-^-'^e"lt;^,rnS"o:;
l^'^ich ferupon : foidierrand ttm^-

"^ trjorh.

t i l'

I'M

111

:'iii

ml !

374 September 1749.

much. On the 19th and 20th, they began to
make iRcifions into the fugar*maple, and to pre-
pare lugar from its juice.

j4fr//. During this month they continued
to cxtradt the juice of the fugar-maple, for
making fogar. On the yth the gardeners began
to make hot- beds. On the 20th the ice in the
river broke loofe near ^ebec, and went down ;
whicli rarely happens fo foon 5 for the river St.
Lawrence is romctimes covered with ice oppofite
^iebecy on the 10th of May, On the 22d, and
2jd, there fell a quantity of fnow. On the a5th
they began to r)W near St. Joachim, The fame
day they faw feme fwallows. The 29th they
fowed corn all over the country. Ever fince the
23d the river had been clear at ^ebec.

May. The third of this month the cold was
fo great in the morning, that Celjius's or the
SweSjh thermometer, was four degrees below
the treezing point? however, it did not hurt
the corn. On the i6th all the fummer-corn
wasfown. On the 5ththe Bangiiinaria, ISIar-
ciJJiiSi and violet, began to blow. Ihe 17th
the wild cherry-trees, rafbeiry-buflies, apple-
trees, and liiDv-trees, began to expand their
leaves. The ilrawberrics were in flower about
that time. The 29th the wild cherry-trees
were in bloiTom. On the 26th part of the
French apnle^ trees, cherry-trees, and plum-
^rees, opened their flowers.

June, The 5th of this month all the trees
bad got leaves. The apple-trees were in full
flower. Ripe ftraw-berries were to be had on

the

tlie 22d. Here it is noted, that the weather was
very fine for the growth of vegetables.

y^fy- The corn began to (hoot into ears' on
tne i2th, and had ears every where on the 21ft.
(It IS to be obferved, that they fow nothing but
fummer-corn here) Soon after the corn began to
ilower. Hay-making began the 22d. All this
month the weather was excellent.

^^g' On the 12th there were ripe pearS
and melons at Montreal, On the 20th the corn
was ripe round Montreal, and the harvefl was
begun there. On the 22d the harveft be-
gan at ^ebec. On the 30th, and 31ft, there
was a very fmall hoar-froft on the ground.

Sept. The harvefl of all kinds of corn end-
ed on the 24th and 25th. Melons, water-me-
lons, cucumbers, and fine plums, were very plen-
tiful durmg the courfe ot this month. Apples
and pears were likewife ripe, which is not al-
ways the cafe. On the laft days of this month
they began to plough ,the land. The following
is one of the obfervations of this month ; " The
« old people in this country fay, that the corn
^*| was formerly never ripe till the 15th or i6th
** of September, and fometimes on the 12th ;
" but no fooner. They likewife affert, that it
•** never was perfedly ripe. But fincethe woods
** have been fufficiently cleared, the beams of
'I the fun have had more room to operate, and
** the corn ripens fooner than bcfors *^" It

Bb4 is

JJL '' T """l^ ^\ ^^^''^^"S °^ *'°'^^' b"^ cultivation, Rnd no-
pu ation, that a her the climate of a country, and make it mild,
iiic Komam iookcu upon the winters oi G/rmavy and En:land as

very

i 9 W

1:1 : ill

)li

I 'Jl

1 I

Hi.';

1.'

376

September 1749.

js further remarked, that the hot fummers are
always very fruitful in Canada, and that moft of
the corn has hardly ever arrived at perfecft ma-
turity.

Oci. During this month the fields were
ploughed, and the weather was very fine all the
time, -There was a little frofl for feveral nights,

very fevexe, bat happily both countries have at prefent a much
jnorc mild climate than fbrmerfy, owing to the three above-men-
tioned reafons. ISit^r Penrfiurg, under fixty degrees north lati-
tude, the river N^'va was covered with ice 1765, in the beginning
f)f December and cleared of it April the nth 1766. At Tjari'Jln.
\yh;ch IS under fcrty-cight degrees forty minutes north latiiude,
the nver Fdga was covered with ice the 26th of No-vemb^r 176c,
nnd the ice broke in the livcr J/>n! the 27th 1766, (all old ftile}!
is It not almcft incredible, that in a place very near twelve de-
f?rces more to the fouth, the effefts of cold fliould be felt longer,
w 1 more feverely, than in the more northern climate ? And the'
ine ntighboiirhood of Tefe^Jiurg has a great many woods, the cold
was, however, lels feveie, and laltingj rfariijin, on the contrary,
has no woods for many hundied miles in its neighbourhood, if we
.xcept fcmie few trees and bulhes along the Volga, and its ifles,and
the low land along it. Wherever the eye looks to the eaft, there
are vaft plains without woods, for many hundred miles. The
cleanijg a country of woods, cannot therefore alone contribute fo
Tnuch to make the climate milder. But cultivation does more. On
a ploughed tield the fnow will always fooner melt, than on a field
covered with grafi. The inflammable warm particles brought in-
to the field, by the various kinds of manure, contribute much to
foften the rigours of the climate; hut the exhalations of thoufands
of men and cattle, it^. a populous country, the burning of fo many
combuflihles, and the difperfion of fo many cauftic particles, thro'
the whole atmofphere ; thefe arc things which contribute fo much
towards fohcning the rigours of a climate. In g hundred fquare
iniics near Tjaritjln, ilie^e is not fo much cultivated land as there
IS withrn ten near PtUrJhuyg ; it is in proportion to the number of
the mhabitants of both places, and this makes the chief difference
of the climate. There is flill another confideration, Peierjburg lies
near the fea, and 77flr;V/7 in an inland country ; and, generally
fpcaking, countries near the Tea have been obffrved to enjoy a mil-
der climate. Thefc few remarks will be, 1 believe, fufficicnt to en-
able every body to judge of the changes of the climate in various
countries, which, no doubt, grow warmer and more temperate, ^s
cu.'uvation and population increafe. F,

and

Sluekc. ,__

and on the 28th it fnowed. Toward, the end
of thrs month the trees began to flied their

1C3VCS.

Nov. They 'continued to plough till the ,oth
ot this month, when the trees had flied all their
leaves. T.Il the ,8th the cattie went out of
doors a fevv days excepted, when bad weather
had kept them at home. On the i6th there
was fome thunder and lightning. There was

Tli '"^ """ '° """ ^^- ^''■^'■"'" °n the
Dec. During this month it is obferved, that

Sn'fhTT I ''"".'""^h milder than ufual.
On the ift a (hip could ftill fet fail for France-
but on the ,6th the ri.er St. Lawrence was
covered with ,ce on the fides, but open in the
middle. In the nver Charles the ice was thick
enough for horfes with heavy loads to pafi over
It. On the 26th the ice in the river St. Law-
rence ^was wafted away by a heavy rain ; but on
the 28th part of that river was again covered

The next obfemtions fliew, that the winter
has hke wife been one of the mildeft. I now re-
lume the account of my own journey.

This evening I left ^ebec with a fair ^vlnd.
The governor-general of Canada, the marquis de
la Jonqmcre, ordered one of the king's boa?s, and

7T "?'"' ^° ^""^ "'^ to Montreal. The middle
of the boat was covered with blue cloth, under
which we were fecured from the rain. This

C"'^A7'"'^' ''u'^' "^P^"^^ ^^t^^ F^^^^ch

i^in^. We went three French miles to-day.

Sept,

; 1

i

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1
i

1

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mmr^i^i

I

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It

378

September 1749.

Sept. 12. We continued our journey during
all this day.

The fmall kind of maize, which ripens in
three months time, was ripe about this time,
and the people drew it out of the ground, and
hung it up to dry.

The weather about this time was like the
beginning of our Auguft, old iHle. Therefore
it feems autumn commences a whole month
later in Canada^ than in the midft of Sweden,

Near each farm there is a kitchen garden,
in which onions are moft abundant; bccaufethe
French farmers eat their dinners of them with
bread, on Fridays and Saturdays, or fafting days.
However, I cannot fay, the French are ftrid
obfervers of falling \ for fcveral of my rowers ate
fle(h to-day, though it was Friday. The com-
mon people in Canada may be fmelled when one
pafles by them, on account of their frequent ufe
of onions. Pumpions are likewife abundant in
the farmers gardens. They drefs them in fe-
veral ways, but the moft common is to cut them
through the middle, and place the infide of the
hearth, towards the fire, till it is quite roafled.
The pulp is then cut out of the peel, and eaten j
people above the vulgar put fugar to it. Carrots,
fallad, French beans, cucumbers, and currant
flirubs, are planted in every farmer's little
kitchen-garden.

Every farmer plants a quantity of tobacco
near his houfe in proportion to the fize of his
family. It is hkewife very necefTary that they
fliould plant tobacco, becaufe it is fo univerfally
fmoaked by the common people. Boys of ten

or

Ml.

I Ll

^ebec.

79

\\M I

h ripens in

this time,

;round, and

as like the
Therefore
lole month
Sweden,
len garden,
becaufe the
them with
afting days.
: are ft rid
' rowers ate
The com«
\ when one
requent ufe
bundant in
Jem in fe-
o cut them
fide of the
ite roafted.
and eaten ;
:. Carrots,
id currant
[ier*s little

of tobacco

fize of his

that they

univerfally

03'S of ten

or

or twelve years of age run about with the pipe
in their mouths, as well as the old people. Pcr-
fons above the vulgar do not refufe to fmoak a
pipe now and then. In the northern parts of
Canada, they generally fmoak tobacco by itfelf •
but further upwards, and about Montreal, they
take the mner bark of the red Cornelian cherry *
crufh it, and mix it with the tobacco, to make
It weaker. People of both fexes, and of all
ranks, ufe fnuff very much. Almoft all the to-
bacco which IS confumed here is the produce of
the country, and fome people prefer it even to
l^trgiman tobacco : but thofc who pretend to be
coanoifTeurs, reckon the laft kind better than the
other.

Though many nations imitate the French
cuftoms ; yet I obferved, on the contrary, that
the French m Canada, in many refpedts, follow
the cuftoms of the Indians, with whom they con-
verfe cv^ry day. They make ufe of the tobacco^
pipes, fhoes, garters, and girdles, of the 7W/W.
1 hey follow the Indian way of making war with
cxadnefsi they mix the fame things with to-
bacco; they make ufe of the /W/^^^ bark-boats,
and row them in the Indian way; they wrap
fquare pieces of cloth round their feet inftead of
ftockmgs, and have adopted many other Indian
iaQiions. When one comes into the houf? of
•^Canada peafant, or farmer, he gets up, takes
his hat off to the ftranger, defires him to fit
down, puts his hat on, and fits down again. The
gentlemen and ladies, as well as the pooreft pea-

. f^

hi \

f' 1

Cornus fatntuinea, Linn,

fants

M,

It ''•

3 So

Sepiemher 1749.

y Mr

fants and their wives, are called Monficur and
Madame. The peafants, and efpecially their
wives, wear flioes, which confift of a piece of
wood hollowed our, and are made almoft as
flippers. Their boys, and the old peafants
themfelves, wear their hair behind in a cue j
and moft of them wear red woollen caps at
home, and fometimes on their journies.

The farmers prepare moft of their difhes of
milk. Butter is but feldom it<t\^y and what
they have is made of four cream, and therefore
not fo good as EngUJh butter. Many of the
Trench are very fond of milk, which they eat
chiefly on fading days. However, they have
not fo many methods of preparing it as we have
in S%veden. The common way was to boil it,
isnd put bits of bread, and a good deal of fugar,
into it. The French here eat near as much
flefti as the Englifi, on thofe days when their
religion allows it. For excepting the fo'up, the
fallads, and the defert, all their other diflies
confift of flcfh varioufly prepared.

At night we Jay at a farni-houfe, near a
river called Petke Riviere, which falls here into
the river St. Laivrence. This place is reckoned
fixteen French miles from ^ehec, and ten from
Trois Rivieres, The tide is ftill confiderable
here. Here is the lart: place where the hills,
along the river, confifl of black lime-flate j fur-
ther on they are compofed merely of earth.

Fire-flies flew about the woods at night,
though not in great numbers j the French call
them Mouchcs a feu.

The

I-etween ^ek-c and Trois Rki(res. 381

The houfcs in this neighbourhood are aH
made of wood. The rooms are pretty iar^-
rhe inner roof refts on two. three, ur four!
large thick fpars, according to the li« of the
7Zf. The^hinks are filled with chy, i„ftead
otmofs The windows are made entirely of
paper. The chimney is erefted in the micidlc
of the room; that part of the room which is
oppofite the fire, is the kitchen , that which I
behmd the chimney, ferves the people to flee ^
and receive ftrangers in Sometimes there is a*^
iron ftove hehind the chimney.

Sept i^th Near CAam/>/am, which is a
place about five Frenc/i miles from Trois Ri

yellow, and fumetimes ochre-coloured fandv
earth, in which a number of fmdl fprines arif/
The water in them is generally filled with yellow
ochre, which is a fign. that thefe dry^faZ
fields contain a great quantity of the fame iron
ore. which .s dug at Trou Rivieres. It is no"
conceiveable from whence that number of fmal
rivulets takes their rife, the ground above being
flat, and exceeding dry in fummer. The land,
near the river are cultivated for about an EngKil
mile into the country; bat behind them there
are thick forefts. and low grounds. The woodf

which coll .a a quantity of moifture, and pre^
vent the evaporation of the water, force ii to
make its way under ground to the river. The
ftores of the river are here covered with a great
deal of black iron-fand.

Towards evening we arrived at Trcis Ri-
vieres, where we ftaid no longer. t!>.n was ne.

flary

\i f

h

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cc

£ t

4;::

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3^2

September 1749.

cefTary to deliver the lettcrj, which we bronght
with us from ^ebec. After that we went a
French mile higher up, before we took our
night's lodging.

This afternoon we faw three remarkable old
people. One was an old Jefuit, called fathtfr
Jofeph Auberyy who had been a miflionary to
the converted Indians of St. Francois. This
fummer he ended the fiftieth year of his miflion.
He therefore returned to ^ebec, to renew bis
vows there; and he feemed to be healthy, and
in good fpirits. 'The other two people were our
landlord and his wife; he was above eighty years
of age, and (he was not much younger. They
had now been fifty-one years married. The
year before, at the end of the fiftieth year of
their marriage, they went to church together,
and ofl?ered up thanks to God Almighty for the
great grace he gave them. They were yet
quite well, content, merry, and talkative. The
old man faid, that he was at ^lebec when the
Englijh befiegcd it, in the year 1690, and that
the bifliop went up and down the flreets, dref-
fed in his pontifical robes, and a fword in his
hand, in order to recruit the fpirits of the
foldiers. ,

This old man faid, that he thought the
winters were formerly much colder than they
are now. There fell likewife a greater quantity
of fnow, when he was young. He could re-
member the time when pumpions, cucumbers,
&c, were killed by the froft about mid-fummer,
and he affured me, that the fummcrs were war-
mer

^k:

Between Trots Rivieres and Montreal. 3S5

mer now than they ufcd to be formerly. About
thirty and fome odd years ago, there was fuch a
fcvcre winter in Canada, that the froft killed
many birds j but the old man could not remem-
ber the particular year. Every body allowed,
that the rummers in 1748, and 1749, had been
warmer in Canada than they have been many
years ago.

^ The foil is reckoned pretty fertile ; and wheat
yields nine or ten grains from one. But when
this old man was a boy, and the country was
new and rich every where, they could get
twenty, or four-and-twenty, grains from one.
They fow but little rye here; nor do they fow
much barley, except for the ufe of cattle.
They complain, however, that when they have
a bad crop, they are obliged to bake bread of
barley.

Sept, 14th. This morning we got up early,
and purfued our journey. After we had gone
about two French miles, we got into Lake St.
Pierre, which we croffed. Many plants, which
are common in our Swedijh Lake§, fwim at the
top of this water. This Lake is faid to be
covered every winter with fuch ftrong ice, that
a hundred loaded horfes could go over it toge-
ther with fafety. .; •

A CRAw-FiSH, or river lobfter, fomewhat
like a crab, but quite minute, about two geo-
metrical lines long, and broad in proportion,
was frequently drawn up by us with the aquatic
weeds. Its colour is a pale greenifli white*

t-, 1

li

\ ■,

I ■• r

i^n

1: t

The

3^4

September 1749.

I I

liiuLuy& fi-i

y ' lii

.! t

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?

1 i

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1

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■ 1

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The cordated Pontcdcria * grows plentiful
on the fides of a long and narrow canal of water
in the places frequented by our watcr-lillies f!
A great number of hogs wade far into this kind
ofrtrait, and fomclimes duck the grcateft part
of their bodies under water, in order to get at
the roots, which they arc very fond of.

As foon as wc were got through Lake St,
Pierre, the face of the country was entirely
changed, and became as agreeable as could be
wifhed. The ifles, and the land on both fides
of us, looked like the pretticiT: pleafure-gardcnsi
and this continued till near Montreal,

Near every farm on the river-fide there are
fomc boats, hollowed out of the trunks of fin<?lc
trees, but commonly neat and well made, hav-
ing the proper fhape of boats. In one place I
faw a boat made of the bark of trees.

Sept, 15th. We continued our journey early
this morning. On account of the flrength of
the river, which came down againft us, we were
fometimes obliged to let the rowers go on flior e,
and draw the boat.

At four o'clock in the evening we arrived at
Montreal \ and our voyage was reckoned a
happy one, becaufc the violence of the river
flowing againft us all the way, and the change-
ablenefs of the winds, commonly protradl it to
fourteen days.

Sept. 19th. Several people here in town
have got the French vines, and planted them in

• Pontederia cor(fafa, Liwii

'4X

their

(M

Montreal, ,g

of a reff^ ^"'"' °^ ''"""ft white , ih/Xr

,. ",v "y» white wine is madr • anj <•
«he red ones, red wine. The cold' in ^°'"

have dln.Tr.' P'"^'"' ' but whether th.t,
an old O/ ""^r " "°^^^^^ly determined. For

the country w ^^^opeans carric into

///^W tL ^^ communicated th.m to the
ort !i "^ i'rcnclu on the other hand h.v^

aHured me, that tne Illinois hdiJu^. hJ.
abundance of this fruit, when th^ iZch S

P anted hem fince times immemoriat. 4,;,.
^v.r, I do not remember having read that ths

• Cucurlita citraUu:. Linn.

Vol, U. o

I,.

f! I|!

]
I

^ C

W/^5-

386

September 1749.

1 .

I Ml

■1 r

s ' i ■

1
t 1 i '

1

Europeans, who firft came to North- America,
mention the water-melons, in fpeaking of the
difhes of the Indians at that time. How great
the fummer heat is in thofe parts of America
which I have pafled through, can eafilybe con-
ceived^ when one confider&, that in all thofe
places, they never fow water-melons in hot-
beds, but in the open fields in fpring, without
fo much as covering them, and they ripen in
time. Here are two fpecies of them, viz. one
t^'ith a red pulp, and one with a white one..
The iirft is more common to the fouthward,
with the Illinois, and in the Englijh colonies ;
the laft is more abundant in Canada, The feeds
are fown in fpring, after the cold is entirely
gone off, in a good rich ground, at fome dif-
tance from each other; becaufe their flalks
fpread far, and require much room, if they
fhall be very fruitful. They were now ripe at
Montreal', but in the Englijh colonies they
ripen in 'Jitly and Auguji, They commonly re-
quire lefs time to ripen in, than the common
melons, Thofe in the Englijh colonies are com-
monly fweeter, and more agreeable, than the
Canada ones. Does the greater heat coi>tribute
any thing towards making them more palatable ?
Thofe in the province oi New-Tor k are> how-
ever, reckoned the b.eA,

The water-melons are very juicy ; and the
juice is mixed with a cooling pulp, which is
very good in. the hot fummer-reafcn. Nobody
in Canada, in Albany, and in other parts of
ISew-Tork, could produce an example, that the
eating of water-melons iX', great quantities had

hurt

America^
g of the
[ow great
America
y be con-
all thofc
in hot-
without
ripen in
viz. one
bite one.
uthward,
colonies ;
FTie feeds
entirely
fome dif-
ir flalks
if they
iV ripe at
ies they
lionly re-
common
are eom-
than the
^ntribute
alatable ?
'e> how-

and the
which is

Nobodv
parts of
that the

Montreal.

387

Further to the foufi, ,hT fr.n ' r"^' ^*"S=^-
it is thought bring on '^;S,^.^^;f= °f them
other bat! diftempcrs, efplc T A I"'' """^
as »rc left ufed to them S.n "^^ P'°P'<=
=«fl--ed ™e. that when p':;^,^^^ HT'T
came to the7/A«.,V. ani c? f'veni ti^'"'"^".
the water-melons of that oart IC ■ T' "^
got a ferer ; and tSre 'the V"" '1'''^
X^c French not to eat of a fru t f„ a""'" "'^"''^

keep them i"a r^om l? "u"- ^" '^''"'"^'' 'hey

by ^i>ich"m "ans theTWi^it' '?'■= '"'^'^^
after they are rine • h.;/ ^ . '"'° "lonths

the fro/f" ,X; not 'r^t ''^'^'^^"' "««
tations they iSr" t ^"/''^ ^».?4^^ plan-

e^^th^-I^T ThV:<ri7

burnt with a red h^, ■ • ' .^"'' afterwards
the ftalfc wa, Se'n ed °"f„";i^^ ^'^"^^ ^'if-
-y be eaten at a.i/"an ftcT""/; P ^'^
>/v<7aw. where they have Vac / ■'^'''-

they make a holein^he gro„„d l.f?' ""'''
melons careFnlli/ \^. ■ ^ . ,"°' P"t the water-

which r^z'XT:;[:;ttj' '-'''' 'y

part of winter. Few oeoole h ^''"^'Sreat

this trouble with ,h^ ^ '^ ' ^°'^^'"='' take

they be°n' very c.nr "'"=f-T''°"= ' ^'^^<^^
vJ.""''.''"y. ^°?''"g- and the winter h.i^„
-V -"'u ,00, it Items tn h» i.,r. _ o- S

:tep them for

teems to be lefs necciT^

eating in that feafon. which

^rv to

:; ;ii

C 2

al

rea

IS

dy

'^ i

It^

i •MH

388

September 1749.

already very cold. They are of opinion in thefe
parts, that cucumbers cool more than water-
melons. The latter are very ftrongly diuretic.
The Iroquefe call them Onoheferahatee,

Gourds of fevcral kinds, oblong, round,
flat or comprefled, crook-necked, fmall, Gfc.
are planted in all the Englijh and French colo-
nies. In Canada^ they fill the chief part of the
farmers kitchen-gardens, though the onions
came very near up v^rith them. Each farmer
in the Englijh plantations, has a large field
planted with gourds, and the Germans, Swedes,
Dutcht and other Europeans, fettled in their
colonies, plant them. Gourds are a confiderable
part of the Indian foodj however, they plant
ftiore fquafliss than common gourds. They de-
clare, that they have had gourds long before the
Europeans difcovered America ; which feems to
be confirmed by the accounts of the firft Euro-
peans that came into thefe parts, who mentioned
gourds as common food among the Indians,
The Fre?2ch here call them citrouilies, and the
Englijh in the colonies, pumpkins. They are
planted in fpnng, when they have nothing to
fear from the frofl, in an enclofed field, and a
good rich fjjl. They are likewife frequently
put into old hot- beds. In Canada, they ripea
towards the beginning of September, but further
fouihward they are ripe ^t the end ov July. As
foon as the cold weather commences, they take
o5a]I the pumpions that remain on the ftalk,
whether ripe or not, and fpread them on the
floor: in a part of the houfe, where the unripe
cnes ijrow ptrfcdly ripe, if they arc not laid

one

1 in thefe
1 water-
diuretic.

, round,
lall, (^c,
ch colo-
irt of the
e onions
1 farmer
rge field
Swedes,
in their
ifiderable
ley plant
rhey de-
efore the
feems to
rft Euro-
lentioned
Indians,
and the
rhey are
othing to
d, and a
requently
bey ripea
It further
'uiy. As
they take
he ftalk,
n on the
le unripe

.> ^ * 1 .1 1 rl

Montr cal» -g^

one upon the other. This is done round Mont-
realm the middle of September; but in PeM-

and even tnroughout the winter, if they be wel
fecured ,n dry cellars (for in damp ones they
rot very fopn) where the cold cannot come i„^

heated ±' '^^ ' '.'""• '" ^'^ ^°°"'' -"^-h are
heated now and then, to prevent the cold from
damaging the fruit.

them in afhes. and eat them then, or go to fell
them thus prepared in the towns, ^nd they
have, indeed, a very fine flavour, when roafted.

the fhces before the fire to roaft ; when they
are roafted. they generally put fugar on the
pulp. Another way of roafting them, is to cut
them through the middle, take out all the feeds.
put the halves together again, and roail them
in an oven. When they are quite roafted, fome
butter IS put .nwhilft they are warm, which
bemg tmbibed mto the pulp, renders it very
palatable. They often boil pumpions in water,
and afterwards eat them, ei-her alone or with
flefh. Some make a thin kind of pottage of
them, by boihng them in water, and aftervvards
maceratrng the pulp. This is again boiled wUh
a little of the water, and a good deal of milk,
and ftirred about whilft it is boiling. Some-
times the pulp is ftamped and kneaded into

dOUph. witH rm;T/a flf^,,„ „„ ^^i n /. , .

^ ., .v.i.., ... ,,^v iiJjUi Qi Oliicr liGUr i Of

th

lli

ey m^.ke cakes. S

Of ih!s

ome make paddings and

tarts

i'

r

f'^- i

1 :K ; .. '

1 ' ' ' ' '

'f-

I ('

;90

September 1749.

0

f

Si

gourds. The Indians, in order to prc-
ferve the pumplons for a very lQn| time, cut
them in long flices, which they faften or twift
together, and dry them either by the fijn, or by
the fire in a room. When they are tlius dfied,
they will keep for years together, ajid when
boiled, they tafle very well. The Indians pre-
pare them thus at home and on their journies,
and from them the Europeans have adopted this
method. Sometimes they do not take the time
to boil it, but eat it dry with hung-beef, or
other ilefh; and I own they are eatable in that
ftatc, and very welcome to a hungry flomach.
They fometimes preferve them in the following
manner at Montreal. They cut a pumpion in
four pieces, peel them, and take the feeds out
of them. The pulp is put in a pot with boiling
water, in which it muft boil from four to fix
minutes. It is then put into a cullender, and
left in it till the next day, that the water may
run off. When it is mixed with clpves, cinna-
mon, and fome lemon peel, preferved in fyrup,
and there muft be an. equal quantity of fyrup
and of the pulp. After which it is boiled toge-
ther, till the fyrup is entirely imbibed, and. the
white colour of the pulp is quite lo/t.

Sept, 20th, The corn of this year's harveft
in Canada, was reckoned the fineft they had
ever had. In the province of New-Tork, on the
contrary, the crop was very poor. The autumn
was very fine this year in Canada.

Sept. 22d. The Frenc/i in Canada carry on
a great trade with the India?2s -, and though it
Was ^ormer.y the only trade of this extenfjve

country.

Montreal, ^gj

the S ^ "•. ^\ P'*'^"'' ^''^y have befides
Ire cS,l« /?°'''' [^^'^"l °'her articles which
are exported from hence. The Indians in this

Sh°ert?' "''? «° '""""g '" -"•" 'i' '
tne other Indian nations, commonly brine their

furs a«d flcms to fale i„ the neighbouring &
IT: ^rV' '^'' '' "ot f"fficie„t^. The

bf-ng ,he,r goods to the Eng/i/?,, as the£,Wj/i
fake in • '^'f'-'"'^' "e obliged to under-

theconn r"f 'fr/'^'^^' ''^^ ^"-^^^ 8°°ds ir.
the country of the Indians. This trade is chief-

of vculf. Z ^'.^'"'""l' ^"d " great number

carr^vIn.i-?K 'f"'"'/°y"S« for that purpofe,

Sl« ^ """"/"'^ 8°°''^ "^ «hey know

leceflary to take money on fuch a journev, as

the Indians do not value it, and indeed I think

ver^r VT^° S° °" thefc journ.cs. fcarce
ever take a fol or penny with them.

1 WILL now enumerate the chief goods which
the Frcn^A carry with them for this trade, and

r,peans have t.ught the 7W,;,;,, i„ ,heir neidi-

aid afjde therr bows and arrows, which were
formerly the.r only arm., and make ufeof muf-

^-rr-/ ^'^^ --/".'^///j vvifh niuikets, they would be;
i^arvcd to death.; as .Imoil all their food conliils

^ "^ 4 of

M, J

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n„|

i

l^

392 September 1749.

of the fleih of the animals, which they hunt ; qc
they would be irritated to fuch a degree as to at-
tack iht^Europems. The India?is have hitherto
never tried to ix.akeinulkcts or liinilar fire-arms ;
and thejr great indolence does not even allow
them to mend thofe muflcets which they have
got. They leave this entirely to the Europeans,
As the Europeans came into North- America,
tl re very careful not to give the Indians

fln) Crarmfi. But in the wars between the
French and Englijh, each party gave their /«-
diuH allies fire-arms, in order to weaken the
force of rhe enemy, The French lay the blame
M^r^n the Dutch fettlers in Albany, faying, that
they began, in 1642, to give ihtiv Indians fire-
arms, and taught them the ufe of them, in
order to weaken the French, The inhabitants
oi Albany, on the contrary, aflert, that the
French firft introduced this cuftom, as they
would have beeq too weak to refift the combin-
ed force of the Dutch and Englijh in the colo-
nies. Be this as it will, it is certain that the
/W/Wf buy niufkets from ihQ Europeans, and
jcnow at prefent better how to make ufe of
them, than fome of their teachers. It is like-
wife certain, that the Europeans gain confider-
ably by their trade in mullcets and ammunition.
Fieces of white cloth, or of a coarfe uncut
cloth. The Indians conftantly wear fuch pieces-
of cloth, wrapping them round their bodies.
Sometimes they hang them over their (houlders;
in waim weather, they fallen them round the
middle; and in cold weather, they put them
over the head. Both their men and women

wear

1 I

!,i 1-1

Montreal,

lUnt; QC

as to at-
hitherto
re-arms ;
;n allow
ley have
iropeans,
America,
; Indians
/ecn the
their /«-
iken the
le blame
ng, that
'ans fire-
hem, in
habitants
that the

as they
combin-
he colo-

that the
ans, and
e ufe of
: is like-
confider-
junition.
fe uncut
ch pieces
' bodies,
loulders;
und the
•ut them
1 women
wear

393

wear thefe pieces of cloth, which have com-
monly feveral blue or red ftripes on the edge

Blue or red cloth. Of this the Indian wom'en
make their petticoats, which reach only to their
knees. They generally chufe the blue colour.

t^htrts and fiifts of linen. As foon as an In^
dian fdlow, or one of their women, have put
on a fhirt, they never wafh it, or Ilrip it ofF,
till It is entirely torn in pieces.

Pieces of cloth. Which they wrap round their
legs inftead of {lockings, like the Ruffians,

Hatchets, knives, fcifars, needles', and a fteel
to Jlrtke fire with, Thefe inftruments are now
common among the Indians. Thty all take
thefe inftruments from the Europeans, and
reckon the hat.hets and knives much better
tha^n thofe which they formerly made of flones
and bones. The flone hatchets of the ancient
Indians are very rare in Canada,
^ Kettles of copper or brafs, fometimes tinned
in the infide. Jn thefe the Indians now boil
all their meat, and they have a very great run
with them. They formerly made uie of earthen
or wooden pots, into which they poured water, or
whatever elfe they wanted to boil, and threw in
red hot flones to make it boil. They do not
want iron boilers, becaufe they cannot be eafily
carried on their continual journies, and would
not bear fuch falls and knocks as their kettles
are fubjed to.

Ear-rings of different fizes, commonly of
brafs, and fometimes of tin. They are worn
•^^ both men and women, though the ufe of

ih

em is not iicutTal,

Vermillion,

II

J

'i

11

r '

S ll

I i

ii >

i; iit ■'

: f

t '

15. 1 ">

Mil

394

September 1749.

Vermttlkn, With this they paint their face,
fliift, and feveral parts of the body. The>^ for-
merly made ufe of a reddifh earth, which' is to
be found in the country; but as (he Euro^
peans brought them vermillion, they thought
nothing was comparable to it in colour. Many
perfons have told me, that they had heard their
fathers mention, that the firft Frenchmen who
came over here, got a great heap of furs from
tht Indians, for three times as much cinnabar
as would ly on the tip of a knife.

Ferdfgreafe, to paint their faces green. For
the black colour, they make ufe of the foot at
the bottom of their kettles, and daub their
whole face with it.

Looking glafes. The Indians are very much
pleafed with them, and make ufe of them chief-
ly when they want to paint themfelves. The
men conftantly carry their looking glaftes with
them on all their journies; but the wortien do
not. Th- men, upon tjie whole, are more
fond of drti. than the women.

Burning giu^ -. Thefe are excellent pieces
of furniture in Xl opinion of the Ltdians ; be-
caufe they ferve to . ht the pipe without any
trouble, which an inc lent Indian is very fond

^ Tobacco is bought by the northern Indians,
m whoJe- country it Will not grow. The
fouthern Indians always plant as much of it as
they want for their own confumption. To-
bacco has a great run amongft the northern In-
dtansi and it has been obferved, that the further

thc^

Montreal.

395

their face.
They for-
^hich is to
;he EurO'
y thought
r. Many
leard their
men who
furs from
cinnabar

Jen. For
he foot at
aub their

:ry much
^m chief-
'es. The
iftes with
romen do
ire more

nt pieces
ans ; be-
lout any
^ery fond

Indians,
'. The

of it as

n. To-

hern In-

i further

they

they live to the nortbwawi, the more they
(moke of tobacco.

Wampum^ or, as they arc here called, por^
ceknes. They are made of a particular kind of
ihcJIs, and turned into little (bort cylindrical
beads, and ferve the In4icm^ for money ^d
orn^pient.

Glafs keftds, of a fmall fi^e, and while *or
other colours. The Indian Woipen know hotw
tofanen theip in their nt)bands, pouches, and
cloths.

Brafs and Jieel inire,. ftr feveral kinds of
work.

Brandy, which the Indians value above all
other goods that can be brought therm nor
have they any thing, though ever fo dear to
them, which they would not give away for this
liquor. But, qn account of the many irregu^
larities which are caufed by the ufe of brandy,
the fale of it has been prohibited under fevere
pepalties; howevcf, they do not always pay an
implicit obedience to this order.

These are, the chief goofjs which the French
carry to th^ Indians, and they have a good run
a^o;)g thpm,

The goods which they bring back from the
Indians, confift entirely in furs. The French
get them in exchange for their goods, together
with all the neceflary provifions they want on
the journey. The furs are of two kinds ; the
beft are the northern ones, and the worft fort
thofe from the louth.

In the northern parts of America there are

..i.^i.j „,^ A^iiOvYin^ iiviiio ui aiiiiiiaib : Dears,

6 beavers.

5 ?

r

39^

^1 (!

\Mr<

M I

September 1749,

^i.Lyit..^rt^i

beavers, elks *, rein-deer f , wolf-lynxes J, and
martens. They fometimes get martens Ifeing
from the fouth, but they are red, and good for
little. Fichou du Nord is perhaps the animal
which the Englijh, near Hudfon's bay, call the
wolverene. To the northern furs belong the
bears, which are but few, and foxes, which
are not Very numerous, and generally blacl^;
and feveral other ilcins.

The ikins of the fouthern parts are chiefly
taken from the following aninials : wild cattle,
flags, roebucks,- otters, Pichoux du Sud, of
which P. Charlevoix makes mention §, and are
probably a fpecics of cat-lynx, or perhaps a
kind of panther J foxes of various kinds, rac-
coons, cat-lynxes, and feveral others.
• It is inconceivable what hardfhips the people
in Canada mufl: undergo on their journies.
Sometimes they muft carry their goods a great
way by land; frequently they are abufed by
the Indians, and fometimes they are killed by
them. They often fuf^er hunger, thirft, heat,
and cold, are bit by gnats, and cxpofed to
the bites of poifonous fnakes, and other dan-
gerous animals and infers. Thefe deftroy a
great part of the youth in Canada, and prevent
the people from growing old. By this means,
however, they become fuch brave foldiers, and
fo inured to fatigue, that none of them fear dan-

* Originacs. ■ <

f Cariboux

J Loup cerviers.

§ In his Hill, de la Nouv. France, Tom. V. p. 158.

m

Montreal.

397

nxcs J, and
irtens Iking
d good for
the animal
ay, call the
belong the
:es, which
ally black;

are chiefly

wild cattle,

'« Sud, of

§, and are

perhaps a

kinds, rac-

«

the people
■ journies.
3ds a great
abufed by
; killed by
nrft, heat,
expofed to
other dan-

deftroy a
nd prevent
his means,
diers, and
1 fear dan-

ger or hardfliips. Many of them fettle amono-
the Indtans far from Canada, marry Indiali
women, and never come back again.

The prices of the fkins in Canada, in the
year 1749, were communicated to me by M. de
Couagne, a merchant at Montreal, with whom
I lodged. They were as follow :

Great and middle fized bear fkins, cofl

fiv^ livres.
Skins of young bears, fifty fols.
•— — — lynxs, 25 fols.

—• pichoux dufud, 35 fols.

— foxes from the fouthern parts,

35 '^oJs.
" ' '■" " — otters, 5 livres,
— "-~ — — ' raccoons, 5 livres.

— ' martens, 45 fols.

— — — wolf 'lynxes *, 4 livres.

.—— wolves, 40 fols.

- - carcajoux, an animal which I do

not know, 5 livres.

vifons, a kind of martens, which

:8.

live in the water, 25 fols.
Raw fkins of eiks f , 10 livres.
.. — flags \.

Bad fkins of f/z^j and flags %, 3 livres.
Skins of roebucks, 25, or 30 fols.
■■ ' ' ■ red foxes, 3 livres,
" ■ ■ beavers, 3 livres.

• Loups cerviers.

f Originacs verts. ■

J Cerfs verts.

§ Originacs et cerfs pafies.

ii'i

I WILL

iJJ

398

September 1 749.

\

II

I WILL now infcrt a lift of all che dliTcrent
kinds of ilcins, which are to be got in Canada,
and which are fent from thence to Eurdpe, [
got it from one of the grealeft merchants in
MontreaL They are as follow :

Prepared roebuck /kins, chevreuiJs paj/es.

Unprepared ditto, chevreuils verti.

Tanned ditto, chevreuils tanSs,

Bears, ours*

Young bears, ourfons.

Otters, loutres.

Pecans*

Cats, chats.

Wolves, loup de hois, '

Lynxes, loups cerviers.

North pichoux, pichoux du ncrj*

South pichoux, pichoux du fud.

Red foxes, renards rouges,

Crofs ibxefs, renards croifes^

Black foxes, renards noirs.

Grey foxes, renards argentis.

Southern, or Virginian foxes, renards du fud

oil de Virginie.
White foxes, from TadouJJac, renards diaries

de TadouiTac.
Martensj martres,
Vifonsy ov foutreaux.
Black fquirrels, ecureuils noirs.
Raw flags fkins, cerfs verts.
Prepared ditto, cerfs pajfes.
Raw elks fkins, originacs verts.
Prepared ditto, originacs pajps.
Rein^deetr ficins, cariboux.

Raw

Montreal. ^^^

Raw hind fkms, biches verts.
Prepared ditfo, iiches pq/ftes.
Carcajous.

Muik rats, rats mufques.
Fat winter beavers, caJUrs gras d'hiver.
iJitto fummer beavers, cajlors gras d'hi
Dry winter beavers, caJUrsfics d'hiver. '
IJitto fummer beavers, cajlors fees d'M
Old winter beavers, cajlors vieux dhiver.
I'Uto Jummer beavers, cajlors vieux d'ete.

To-day, r got a piece of native copper from
tlie Upper Lake. Tiiey find it tlierf almoft
quite pure; fo that it does not want melTine
""=[ ^8?,'"' b"< is immediately fit for workin?
Father Charlevoix * fpeaks of it i„ his Sof.
of Nenv-France. One of the Jefuits at S-
real y,ho had been at .he place where This
metal is got, told me. that it is generally found
near the mouths of rivers, and that there are
pieces of native copper too heavy for a fingle
man to lift up. The Indians there fay, ?hat
hey formerly found a piece of about feven fee
long, and near four feet thick, all of pure cop-
per. As It IS always found in the ground near
the mouths of rivers, it is probable that the fee
or water carried it down from a mountains but
notwuhftand ing the careful fearch that has been
made no place has been found, where the
metal I,es in any great quantity together.

The head or fuperior of the prierts of Mont-
real, gave me a piece of lead-ore to-day. H«

• Set his Hift. de la Nouv, Fi-. Ton. VI, j. 41 ;.

faid

i: • i

ifOO

eptemher 1749.

IN

u;

fffi

1 1')

r ii ;.

'1 I,

ill \

faid It was taken from a place only a few French
miles from Montreal and it confided of prelty
compact, (liining cubes of lead-ore* I was
told by feveral perfons hcre^ that furthermore
fouthward in the country^ there is a place where
they find a great quantity of this lead-ore in the
ground. The Indians near it> melt it, and
make balls and fhot of it. I got fome pieces
of it likewife, confiding of a fhining cubic lead-
ore, with .narrow ftripes between it, and of a
white hard earth or clay, which cfFervefces with
cqua fortis,

I LIKEWISE received a reddifh brown earth
to-day, found near the Lac de Deux Montagnes,
or Lake of Two Mountains, a few French rriiles
from Montreal* It may be eafily crumbled into
duft between the fingers. It is very heavy, and
more fo than the earth of that kind generally is.
Outwardly, it has a kind of glofly appearance,
and, when it is handled by the fingers for fome
time, they are quite as it were filvered over. It
is,itherefore> probably, a kind of lead-earth, or
an earth mixed with iron-glimmer.
■ i^HE ladies in Canada are generally of two
^kiods;.4fc>me cooie over from France, and the
^■ Refl:.. natives, tvnl'he former pofiTefs the politenefs
peculiar to the French nation; the latter may
be .'divided into thole of ^lebec and Montreal
— Tli6jifft';of thefe are equal to the French ladies
in good breeding, ha>ing the advantage of fre-
quently Gonverfing with the French gentlemen
and ladies, who come every fummer with the
king's (liips, and (lay feveral weeks at Quebec^
but iirld jaiiifo ta MonircaL The ladieb of this

1

alt

Montreal, jqj

laft place are accufed by the French of ^m^k\nz
too much of the pride of the Indians, and of be!
ing much wanted in French good breeding.
What I have mentioned above of their rireffin^e
thcr head too affiduoufly, is ,he cafe with all
the ladies throughout Canada. On thofe days
when they pay or receive vifi.s, they drefs h
gayly, that one is almoft induced to think their

^ZT-^ft' J^= Srcateft dignities in tho
Hate lilt Frenchmen, who confidered thines
m their true light, complained very much that
a great part of the ladies in Canada had got into
the permc.ous cuftom of taking too tnuch care
ot their drefs, and iquandering all their fortunes,
and more, upon it, in/lead of fparing fomething
for future t.mes They are no iefs attentive to
have the neweft faftions; and they laugh at
each other, when they are not dreffed to each
other s fancy. But what they get as new fafti-
ons, are grown old, and laid afide in France ■
lor the fhips coming but once every year froni
thence, the people in Canada conlider that aj
the new falhion for the whole year, which the
people on board brought with them, or which
they impofed upon them as new. The ladies in
Lanada, and efpecially at Montreal, are verv
ready to laugh at any blunders ftrangers make in
Speaking. In Canada nobody ever hears the
French language fpoken by any but FreKchmen}
lor ftrangers feldom come thither i andthe/«-
dtans are naturally too proud to learn French,
but oblige the French to learn their language.
From hence it naturally follows, thn the nte
^anaaa ladies cannot he.r any thing uncommon
^°'"^^- Dd with-

- I

I

!l

■1' >

ill

I 'i

* >

Utt'^ 1

', i'

^^^^^^M%' ^

r

1

402

September iji^g.

without Iau2hin? at it. One of the firft auef-

they propofe

fti

ger is, wheth(
is married r l fte next, how he likes the ladies
in the country} and whether he thinks them
handfomer than thofe of his own coontry ; And
the third, whether he will take one home with
him ? There are fome difference between the
ladies of ^/£'/^f<:, and thofe of Montreal \ thofe
of the lafl place feemed to be generally hand-
fomer than thofe of the former. Their behavi-
our likewife feemed to me to be fomewhat
too free at ^lebeCy and of a more becoming
modefty at M.ontreal, The ladies at ^lebec,
efpecially the unmarried ones, are not very in-
duftrious. A girl of eighteen is reckoned very
poorly off, if flie cannot enumerate at leaft
twenty lovers. Thefe young ladies, efpecially
thofe of a higher rank, get up at feven, and drefs
till nine, drinking their coffee at the fame time.
When they are dreffed, they place themfelves
near a window that opens into the ftreet, take
up fome needk-work, and few a ftitch now and
then ; but turn their eyes into the ftrcet moft of
the time. When a young fellow comes in,
whither they are acquainted with him or not,
they immediately lay afide their work, fit down
by him, and begin to chat, laugh, joke, and
invent' double-entendrei ; and this is rckoned be-
ing very witty*. In this manner they frequently
pafs the whole day, leaving their mothers to CiO
all the bufmefs in the houfe. In Montreal, the
girls are not quite fo volatile, but uioi?e induf-

W J?.-?i/nV lif\£%Uf.

trious.

Montreah

irft quef-
lether he
the ladies
nks them
try; And
Dme with
ween the
'j/; thole
lly hand-
ir behavi-
fomewhat
becoming
t ^lebec,
t very in-
oned very
at leaf!
efpecially

and drei's
ime time,
hemfelves
reet, take
\ now and
it moft of
:omes in,
m or not,

lit down
joke, and
koned be-
Vequently
[lers to CO
treal, the
)i?e indul-

tnous.

463

trlo-us. They are always at thefr ncedle-work,
- domg fome necelTary bufinefs in the houfe!

They arehkewife chearful and content ; and no<
body can fay that they want either wit, or
charms Their fault is that they think too well
otthemfelves However, the daughters of peo-
ple of all ra-ks, without exception, go to mar-
l^et, and carry home what they have bouj^ht.
i hey rife as foon, and go to bed as late, as
any of the people in the houfe. I have been
ailured, that, m general, their fortunes are not
confiderable; which are rendered fliii more
Xcarce by the number of children, and the fmall
revenues in a houfc. The girls at Montreal are
ri "'."''/ difpleafed that tbofe at 9uebei: fret
hufbands fooner than they. The reafon of this
IS, that many young gentlemen who come over
trom France with the (hips, are captivated by
the ladies at %iebec, and marry them j but a^
tnele gentlemen feldom go up to Montreah the
girls there are not often fo happy as thofe of the
tormer place.

Sept 23d. This morning I went to Saut ait

cli' "" f'^''^ ^^'^^ ^''''''^' «^'les northwa-d
^i Montreal, to defcribe the plants and minerals
there, and chiefly to col]ea feeds of varions
plants. Near the town there are farms on both
lides of theroadj but as one advances farther
on the country grows woody, and varies in re-
gard to height. It is generally very arong; and
there are botn pieces of rock-ftone, and a kind
of grey hme-ftone. The roads are bad aiKJ af,
moft impaffable for chaifes. A little before I

-L> d a arrived

I .1

404

September 1749.

i

I Mi

IS!

I'

arrived at ^aut au Recollel, the woods end, ani
the country is turned into corn-fields, meadows,
and pailures.

. -A-BOUT a French miU from the town are two
Hmc-kilns on the road. They are built of a grey
lime-ftone, burnt hard, and of pieces of rock-
fton^, towards the fire. The height of the kiln
from top to bottom is feven yards.

Tme lime-flone which they burn here, is of
two kinds. One is quite black, and fo compadt,
that its conftituent particles cannot be diftin-
gui(hcd, fome difperfed grains of white and pale
grey fpar excepted. Now and then there are
thin cracks in it filled with a white fmall-grained
Ipar.

I HAVE never feen any petrifadions in this
ftone, though I looked very carefully for them.
This ftone is common on the ille of Montreal,
about ten or twenty inches below the upper foil.
It lies in ftrata of five or ten inches thicknefs.
This flone is faid to give the befl lime; for,
though it is not fo white as that of the following
grey lime-ftone, yet it makes better mortar, and
almolt turns into ftone, growing harder and
more conapaa every day. There are examples,
that when they have been about to repair a
houfe mad« partly of this mortar, the other
ftones of which the houfe confifls, foonev broke
in pieces than the mortar itfelf.

The other kind is a grey, and fometimes a
dark grey lime-ftone, confiding of a cornpa^
calcareous-ftone, mixed with grains of fpar, of
the fame colour. It is full of petrified flriated

fhells

i

^'t^ien Montreal and SautauRecollet. |oi
ftells or peainites. The ereafpft^,,,. e^ ^
petrifaftions are. however ^onlvimn/*"'^
the hollow fide of .he /heV twa'^d'^'h"' °/

though I could never find the fi,m^ (U 7 • J. *'
natural ftate on the fl>ores Ld^r S *" *"'
ceivable ho«r fi,ch a a .'am?, ' / '""'^°''-
could come together T^^l "^^ ""f felons
tion. "'S"''^'-. 36 I fliall prefently men-

co'fiftY„;%'f1,r:,n«f *S' ?''"'i°"'-
on feveral parts of the Se wh^; i, Hel' i^h^

be^ufe it grow., dal^p" "^ tf^t^j;" ^-->
fiR-wooD IS reckoned the beft for the llm^
kilns and the thuya wood next to it. The wood
of the fugar-maple. and other trees of a fimilar
nature, are not fit for it. becaufe tLl^
great quantity of roals. ' ''"^ '^'l^'^^^
Grey pieces of rock-ftone are to be feen i„
the woods and fields hereabouts "

The leaves of feveral trees and plants he»,«

"7 '° r K^ P/'^ ^"^^ efpecially tCe orfhe
red maple, the fmooth fumich*, the p!fe„VL
>^//to««, Linn, and feveral of the feZ^

• Rhutgfa&rum, Linn.

!^'. '11

Dd

At

;/.

m !i

n , Ji

40I5

SeptemBer 1749.

, At noon I arrived at Saut au Recolleft whicli
ijs, a little place, fituated on a branch of the river
$t Lifwrence^ which flows with a violent cur^
rent between the ifles of Montreal and Jefus^
|jt. has got its nan^e from an accident which
happened to a recollet friar, called Nicholas Vell^
in the year 1625. He went into a boat with a
^'onver»ed Indian^ and fome Indians of the nation
oi Huronst in order to go Xo^ebec, but, on
going over this place in the river, the boat
jDverfet, apd both the friar and his profelyte
were drovyned. The Indians (who have been
fufp^cftedj of pccaficning the overfetting of the
boat) fwarp to the ihore, faved what they could
of the friar^s efiedts, and kept them.

.The country hereabouts is full of flones, and
they have but lately began to cultivate it ; for
^ the. old people could remember the places
covered with tall woods, which are now turned
4nto corn-fields, meadows, and paftures. The
priefts ia-^^ that this place was forrnerly inhabit-
ed by fome converted Hurons, Thefe Indians
lived on, a. high mountain, at a little diftance
jfrqm Montreal, when the French firft arrived
here^ ^nd the Utter perfuaded them to fell that
Jand. They did fo, and fettled here at Saut au
Jiecolletf and the church which flill remains here,
was built for them, and they have attended
^ivine fervice in it for many years. As the
prench beggn to increafe on the ifle of Montreal^
they wiflied to have it entirely to themfelves,
and perfuaded the Indians again to fell them this
fpot, and go to another. The French have
fjnce prevailed upon the Indians (v/hom they did

not

Saut au RecoIIet,

t, which
the river
lent cur^
id Jefus^
t which
o/as Vell^
It with a
be nation
but, on
the boat
profelyte
ive been
I of the
ley could

nes, and
; it ; for
le places
■^' turned
IS, The

inhabit-
3 hidians

didance

: arrived

fell that

Saut au
lins here,
attended

As the

VLontreaU
imfelves,
hem this
ich have
they did
not

407

not like to have amongfl: them, becaufe of their
c^runkenncfs, and rambling idle life) to leave
this place agqin, and go to fettle at the lake des
JJeux Montagues, where they are at prefent, and
have a fine church of flone. Their church at
i:>aut au Recollet is of woocj, looks very old and
ruinous though its infide is pretty good, and is
made ufe of by the Frenchmen in%his place!
Ihey have already brought a quantity of ftones
foon '' '"'^"'^ ^"'^"^^"^ ^ "'"^ church very

Though there had been no rain for fomc
days pad, yet the moifture in the air was fo
great that as I fpread fome papers on the irround
this afternoon, in a fliady place, intending to
put the feeds J colledted into them, they were fo
wet in a few minutes time, as to be rendered
quire ufclefs. The whole fky was very clear
and bright, and the heat as intolerable as in the
miodle of yuly, -

One half of the corn-fiei'^s are left fallow al-
ternately. The fallow-grounds are never pIou'>h-
cd in fummer; fo the cattle can feed upon the
weeds that grow on them. All the corn made
ule of here is fummer corn, as I have before ob-
served. Some plough the fallow-grounds late
in autumn ; cther.s defer that bufinels till fpring;
but the firft way is faid to give a much better
crop Wheat, barley, rye, and oats, are harrow^
ed, but peafe are ploughed under ground. They
low commonly about the 15th oi Jprit, and be-
gin with the peafe. Among the many kinds
ot peafe which are to be got hert^ the" -refer
the green ones to all others for fowing7 They

"^ ^ 4 require

'I •

II; i: ■

I

^1 !l

' %

4-0 8

September ly^g*

require ^ high, dry, poor ground, mixed with
poarfe fand. The harvc/l time commences
about the end, and fometimes in the middle of
4ugufl. Wheat returns generally fifteen, and
fometimes twenty fold ; oats from fifteen to
thirty fold. The crop of peafe is fometimes
forty fold, but at other times only ten fold ; for
they are very different. The plough and har^
row are the only initruments of hufbandry
they have, and thofe none of the bcft fort nei-
ther. The manure is carried upon the fallow
grounds in fpring. The foil confifts of a grey
ilony earth, mixed with clay and fand. They fow
no more barley than is neceffary for the cattle;
for t'hey niake no malt here. They fow a good
deal of oats, but merely for the horfes, and other
cattle. Nobody knows here how to make ufe
of the leaves of deciduous trees as a food for the
cattle, though the forells are furnifhed with no
other than trees of that kind, and though the
people are commonly forced to feed their cattle
at honie during five months.

I HAVE already repeatedly mentioned, that
almofl all the wheat which is fown in Caiiada
is fummer, wheat, that is fuch as is fown in
fpring. Near ^ie5ec it fometimes happens,
when the fummer is lefs v/arm, or the fpring
later than common, that a great part of the
wheat does not ripen perfcdtly before the cold
commences. I hav^ been afi'ured that fome
people, who live on the IJle de Jefus, fow wheat
in autumn, which is better, finer, and gives a
inore plentiful crop than the fummer wheat ;

but

I I

id with
imences
iddlc of
?n, and
teen to
netimes
)ld ; for
tid har-
ifbandry
on nei-
: fallow
: a grey
hey fow
: cattle;
a good
id other
ake ufe
i for the
ivith no
ugh th^
r cattle

d, that
Cafiada
own in
appens,
s fpring
of the
he cold
t fome
7 wheat
gives a
wheat ;
but

Saui au RecoIIef,

409

o^he^wt:,"" "■''" ^"'°'''= ^ -'^^ ^^^o- the

of wooden pale.. The J.c^Tf fc '"^f
are to be got here rz-nH- .1. i "'^ '''''"^'»
trifling. ^ "" ""'^". 'he harbour very

Dial" irr^ " ^ '""'' ''P''"S. as the prieft of this

hence, near the riv'er7V f -"^ ""I" ^""^
during the var i"'"/^"»/^"'»i of which

«... 'tJ.::;;,'^7,5-,: --,,«;. ""»

ceed beca!,r.X ^ pear-trees will not fuc
ccea, beoauie the winter is too fevere fnr ,K

and fo«etia,es they are killed by he fSftt^h:
neighbourhood of Mo„,rea/. Pkm-tre« oft
mal forts, were firft brought over W ^
fucceed very well, and wifbftand thT' "'''.
winter. Three forts J T^ f'^""" "^

o er flo ' /°°''i-''"' '^' walnut-trees bourt
over fiom France die almoft every year down 1

ftfe.y. thev are ohl.V Jl '.° 1' ''"'' f°f S'-eater

^ty, they are obliged to p„, ft,,,^ ;,„;:d^j"h^^

:xj«

Chefnut-

n

Ti

i' I i !

liii^^i

In '1

III

ttti

\M

410

Septemher 1749.

Chefnut - trees, mulberry- trees, and the like,
have never yet been planted in Canada,

The whole cultivated part oF Canada has
been given away by the king to the clergy, and
fome noblemen -, but all the uncultivated parts
belong to him, as likewife the place on which
^ebec and Tirois Rivieres are built. The ground
on which the town oi Montreal is built, together
with the whole ifle of that name, belongs to the
priefts of the order of St. Siilpicius, who live at
Montreal, They have given the land in tenure
to farmers and others who were willing: to fettle
on it. The firfl fettlers paid a trifling rent for
their land ; for frequently the whole leafe for a
piece of ground, three arpens broad, and thirty
long, confilt in a couple of chickens ; and fome
pay twenty, thirty, or forty fols, for a piece of
land of the fame fize. But thofe who came lat-
ter, mull pay near two ecus (crowns) for fuch a
piece of lan^, and thus the land-rent is very un-
equal throughout the country. The revenues
of the bifhop of Canada do not arife from any
landed property. The churches are built at the
cxpence of the congregations. The inhabitants
of Canada do not yet pay any taxes to the king ^
.•»nd he has no other revenues from it, than thofe
which arife from the cuftom-houfe.
' The priefts of Montreal hzs^ a mill here,
where they take the fourth part of all that is
ground. However, the miller receives a third
part of this fliare. In other places he gets the
half of it. The priefts fometimes leafe the mill
for a certain fum. Befides them nobody is al-
lowed to ere<5l a mill on the i-fle of Montreal,
7 they

II

MontreaL

411

they having referved that right to themfclvcs.
In the agreement drawn up between the prieftg
and the inhabitants of the ifle, the latter are
obliged to get all their corn ground in the mills
of the former.

TiiEY boil a good deal of fugar in Canada of
the juice running out of the incifions in tho
fugar-maple, the red maple, and the fugar-
birch ; but that of the firft tree is moft com-
monly made ufe of. The way of preparing it
has been more minutely dcfcribcd by me in the
Memoirs of the Royal ^wedijh Academy of Sci-
ences *.

Sept. 26th. Early this morning I return-
ed to Montreal. Every thing began now to
look like autumn. The leaves of the trees were
pale or reddifh, and moft of the plants had loft
their flowers. Thofe which ftill prcferved them
were the following -^ i

Several forts of afters, both blue and white.

Golden rods of various kinds.

Common milfoil.

Common felf-hcal.

The crifped thiftle.

The biennial Oenothera.

The rough- leaved fun-flower^ with trifoliated
leaves.

The Canada violet,

A fpecies of gentian.

• See the Volume for 175 1.

t Ajieres, Solidagines. Achillea millefolium. Prunella -vulgaris.
Carduiis crifpus. Oenothera biennis, Rkdbtckiii iriMa, Viola Ca^
nadenjii. Giutiana Saponaria.

WlLP

'ii!

fl

■l.i

n

m

ill

■II I

i i

'4^1

Septemlfci

1749,

Wr

LD Vines are abundant in the woods here-
abouts, ch'rnbing up very high trees.

I HAVE made enquiry among the French,
who travel far ii/o *hc- country, concerning the
food of the Indiam, Thofe who live far north,
I am told, cannot plant any thing, on account of
the great degree of cold. They have, there-
fore, no bread, and do not live on vegetables •
fleHi and fiai is their only food, and chiefly the
fledi ofbeavers, bears, rein-deer, elks, hares, and
feveral kinds of birds. Thofe Indians who live
far foiithward eat the following things. Of ve-
getables they plant maize, wild kidney-beans *
of feveral kinds, pumpions of different forts,
Jquafies, a kind of gourds, water-melons and me-
lons f . They likewife eat various fruits which
grow in their woods. FiOi and flefli make a
very great part of their food. And they chiefly
like the flefh of wild cattle, roe-bucks, flags,
bears, beavers, and fome other quadrupeds.
Among their d^mty difhes, they reckon the
ivater-taregrafs +, which the French call folk
fooine, and which grows in plenty in their lakes,
jn ftagnant waters, and fometimes in rivers which
flow ilowly. They gather its feeds in Odloher,
and prepare them in difl^ercnt ways, and chiefly
as groats, which take almoft as well as rice.
They make likewife many a delicious meal of the
feveral kinds of walnuts, chefnuts, mulbenies, aci-

• Pha/eeli. ■

'f Cucumis tnelo. Linn.

X Zizania ajuatica, Linn,

Monlt'caL

4^3

wild !: '^'"^"^P^'"« t, hazel-nuts, peaches.
wM p,,nes, grapes, whortle-bcrries ofrcvcn
lorts, various kinds of medlars Kl.^r / •
and nfK^^ f •* J '"cwjars, black-hcrncs.
ana other fruit and roots. But fN^ r, - c

Tf ,L r ^ """^""^i here before the arrivd

the .,frT'u°u"'^'''"= "'="'• 'hough they fee
he ufe ,^,,„h ,he Europ,,>,s make of the ^cu

.rthedfr' ^"'i^°"S^ ""'y "«= fond of a
NorH'V ^^AVERs are abundant all over

liv^uponthei /.';;, V"-^"""'^"- '^'•'« ^'"'^-'^
year It , " f"*^ ^"""S ^ great part of the

of them a'eannually killed and th J,? "T '"

nL?K " f--\'° -^-t dlLfjt-
mes, ,n order to catch or flioot them Th •

.1. "'^■^"'/"'«^. before the arrival of thesL
'■^/f^«x, only caught as many as they fou h „
ccffary to clothe themfelves with Inhere h
.hen no trade with the /kin. ^t' p're^Ta J^m!

e^d::i? nutSo":;ch':iTt "' •^'•'''^^'

;W/W well for them »nHr-' ^^ P'^^S the

latter to exiroate th^r. 'T" ";°""S« the

'"^ cA:cirpate thele animals. Manv r-^^i

'" ^'W. told me. that when theywcre /o^J

• -Winona muricatct. Linrr.
t tagmpumila. Linn.

i]

all

t-l H(

4J4

Septemhef' 1749.

jjjijl'ii', f

m

' I i;

irl

all the rivers in the neighbourhood of Monfreaf^
the river St, Lawrence not excepted, were full
of beavers and their dykes j but at prefent they
are extirpated in that quarter.
^-^ Beaver-flesh is eaten not oply by the /;?-
diansi but likewife by the Europeans^ and efpe-
cialJy the French, on their fafling days -, for his
h€^inefs> in his fyftem, has ranged the beaver
among the filh. The fle(h is reckoned beft, if
the beaver has lived upon vegetables, fuch as the
afp, and the beaver-tree * -, but when he has
eaten fifh, it does not tafte well. To-day I taft-
cd this flefli boiled, for the firft time ; and tho'
every body prefent, befides myfelf, thought it a
delicious dilli, yet I could not agree with them*
I think it is eatable, but has nothing delicious.
It looks black when boiled, and has a peculiar
tafte. In order to prepare it well, it muft be
boiled in feveral waters from mcrning till noonj
that it may loofe the bad tafte it has. The tail
is likewife eaten, after it has been boikd in the
feme manner, and roafted afterwa..': j but it
contifts of fat only, though they would not call
it io', and cannot be fwallowed by one who is
not ufed to eat it. Sometimes, though but fel-
dom, they catch beavers with white hair.

Wine is almoft the only liquor which people
above the vulgar are ufed to drink. They make
a kind of fpruce-bcer of the top of the white-
fir 'fi which they drink in fummer 3 but the

* Magnolia giauea. Linn.

+ Jpinette blanche. The way of brewing this beer is dcftribed
at large in the Memoirs of the Royal Academy of Sciences, for the
year 175 1, p. 190.

m%

•* Montreal.

4*f

life of It IS not general ; and it is feldom drank
by people of quality. Thus great fums go an-
«Ui(lIy out of the country for wine , as they
have no vines here of which they could make a
liquor that ,s fit to be drank. The common
people drink water ; for it is not yet cuftomary
hereto brew beer of malt j and there are no
orchards large enough to fupply the people
w.th apples for making cyder/ Some of the
people of rank, who poffefs lai^e orchards,
lomet.mes out of curiofuy, get a fmall quan-
tity of cyder made. The great people here,
who are ufea from their youth to drink nothing
but wiiie. are greatly at a lofs in time of wart
when al t.,e Ihips which brought wine are in-
tercepted by the Englijh privateers. Towards
the end of the laft war, they gave two hun-
rired and fifty Frana. and even one hundred
i^cus, for a barnque, or hogfhead, of wine.

A MIDDLING horfe now cofts forty Francs *
and upwards j a good horfe is valued at an hun-
dred Francs, or more. A cow is fold for fifty
trancsi but people can remember the time
when they were fold for ten Ecus f. A (heep
cofts five or fix livres at prefent; but laft year.
when every thing was dear, it coft eight or ten
Francs. A hog of one year old. and two hun-
dred or an hundred and fifty pounds weight.
IS fold at fifteen Francs. M. Couagne, the n?er-
chant, told mc, that he had feen a hog of four
hundred weight among the Indians. A chicken

t An Ecu is three Franct.

c a

t$

ill

1 !i

^i!

f k

416

September J 749.

M

IS fold for ten or twelve Sols * ; and a turkey fop.
X^tmySols, KMinotX of wheat fold for an
Ecu lafl year 5 but at prefent it coft forty Sols^
Maize IS always of the fame price with wheat,
becaufe here is but little of it 5 and it is all made
ufe of by thofc who go to trade with the Indians.
A Mmot of oats cofts fometimes from fifteen to
twenty Sols i but of late years it has been fold
iox twenty-fix, or thirty Sols. Pcafe bear al-
ways the fame price with wheat. A pound of
butter coAs commonly about eight or ten Sols-,
but laft year it rofe up to fixteen Sols. A dozen
of eggs ufcd to coft but three Sols ; how-
ever, now are fold for five. They make no
cheefe at Montreal; nor is there any to be had,
except what is got from abroad. A water-me-
Ion generally cofts five or fix Sols ; but, if of a
large fize, from fifteen to twenty.

There are as yet no manufadures eftabliflied
in Canada -, probably, becaufe France will not
lofe the advantage of felling off its own goods
here. However, both the inhabitants of C^/^^^^^,
and the Indians, are very ill off for want of them'
in times of war. *

Those perfons who want to be married, muft
have the confcnt of their parents. However, the
judge may give them leave to marry, if the pa-
rents oppofe their union without any valid rea-
fon. Likewife, if the man be thirty years of
age, and the woman twenty-fix, they may mar-

* Twenty So!s make one Livre»

X A French meafare, about the fame as two bufiiels in Eng^

turkey for
fold for an
forty Sols^
th wheat,
s all made
»e Indians*

fifteen to

been fold
: bear al-

pound of
• ten Sols i

A dozen
' ', how-
make no
:o be had,
/ater-me-
t> if of a

ftabUflied

will not

vn goods

f Canada,

of them,

led, mull
^ever, the
f the pa«
'alid rea«
years of
nay mar-

lels in Eng*

Monirial,

•♦'?

Sept. 29th This afternoon I went out of
town, to the fouth-weft part of the ifle, in order
to view the country, and the (economy of the
people, and to colJeft fever.l feeds. J A before
the town are fome fine fields, which were for-
m^r^y cult.vated. but now ferve as paftures.
To the north-weft appears the high mountain
wh,ch hes weftward of iW.„/r.^//and is very
fertile and covered with fields and gardensfror^
the bottom to the fummit. On thi fouth-eaft

htlu "'V ^'- ^"^'■("^'^ which is very
broad here; and on its fides are extenfive corn-
toeids and meadows, and fine houfes of ftone.
which look white at a diftance. At a great dif-
tance fouth-eaft ward, appear the two high
«oun ams near fort CAami/au, and fome others
near lake C/,amphi„. raifing their tops above
the woods. All the fields hereabouts are fiUed
with ftones of different fizes, and among them
there .s frequently feen a black lime-ftone. Abo«
a FW, mile from the town, the high road goes
along the r.ver. which is on the left-hand ; Cd

and inhabited. The farm-houfes are three!

TkIVm^ '!?'"'' '"^""^ ^""" "=h other

The bills near the river are generally high and

piettyfteep5 theyconfift of earth; and the fields
nnnTf m'T, r ^l'' "'"' P'="^ of rock-ftone

IS tull of ftones ; in fome nlar^c tK.,. „„ ,__, .

111

E

waves,

BV I »"

418

;i<r«|

. t

' 'i :l

ll^

OSiobet* 1749.

waves. Hbwever, thofe who go In boats into
the fouthern parts of Canada, are obliged to
work through fuch places.

Wild-geese and ducks, began to migrate in
great flocks to the fouthern countries.

05t, 2d. Tnr two preceding days, and this,
1 employed chiefly in colledting (ttds.

The laft night's froft had caufed a great al-
teration in fevcral treeSi Walnut-trses of all
forts {hed their leaves in plenty now. The
flowers of a kind of nettle * were all entirely
killed by the froih The leaves of the American
lime-tree were likewife damaged. In the kit-
chen-gardens the leaves of the melons were all
killed by the froft. However, the beech, oak,
and birch, did not feem to have fuff^ered at all.
The fields were all covered with a hoar- froft.
The ice in the pools of water was a geometri-
cal line and a half in thicknefs.

The biennial Oenothera f grows in abun-
dance on open woody hills, and fallow fields.
An old Frenchman^ who accompanied me as
I was colled:ing its feeds, could not fufiiciently
praife its property of healing wounds. The
leaves of the plant muft be cru(hed, and then
laid on the wound.

Saeurs de Congregation are a kind of religious
women, different from nuns. They do not
live in a convent, but have houfes both in the
town and country. They go where they pleafe.

• UrtUa di'varicata, Linn,
f Oenctbira iiennit, Linn.

and

T.

'La Ch'n^i

ats into
iged to

^rate ia

nd this,

eat al-
1 of all
The
entirely
mrican
the kit-
vere all
h, oak,
i at all.
ir~froft.
ometri-

abun-

fields.

me as

iciently
The

kd then

eligious

do not

L in the

pleafe.

and

tand are even allowed to marrv \f -,«

< tunity offers, but this I am to d' I ^^P°'"
feldnm T« "' ""s> A am told, happens verv
ieidom. U many places in the country, there
are ^t wo or more of them: they have the r
i^oufe commonly near a church, ^and JeneraUv

?JadJnl .^h"^^^n religion, to teach thei

reading wnting, needle^work. and other fema^
accomphrhments People of fortune board the r
daughters with them for fome time TK

and whatever clfe they want, upon very rea-
fonable terms. The houfe where the whole
community of thefe ladies \\v^ and from
whence thev are Tern- ^«^ ' l "°"^ '

corpoTated Lm^ { ^'' '^'"^' '^ ^^^°"^^ i"-

and fome people reckon it to be four thousand

ot a fubfiftence during her life-time. . ,. .

to the fouth-eaft of ikf,;,^;^,^/, b^^ ^„ ^^ ^
Ule,clofe.to the river ^/.£^^,^,;,,,. Tbefrm-
houfes ly along the river-fide, about four^;
Jive arpen^s from each other. Here i/a fine

t'^'f^ f ^l''' ^^'"^ ^ ^«^-" fteeple, and the
whole place has a very agreeable fitua ion Jts
n^meis faid to have had the following onV n
As the unfortunate M. Sa//, was here, who wa
afterwards murdered by h^s own country'men
further up m the country h. ,.,. ... /. ^ ""^^
upond:fcoveringa(ho;^-,I^^a^;--

E e 2

* means

11

*:IJ

I,

,:!

i«'l,

420 OSfober 1749.

means of the river St, Lawrence, He talked
of nothing at that time but his new ihort way
to China. But as his proje(ft of undertaking
this journey, in order to make this difcovery,
was flopped by an accident which happened to
him here, and he did not that time come any
nearer Chinas this place got its name, as it
were, by way of joke.

This evening I returned to Montreal,
OB. 5th. The governor-general Xii ^ebec
is, as I have already mentioned before, the chief
commander in Canada, Next to him is the
intendant at ^ebec; then follows the governor
of Montreal, and after him the governor of
^rois Rivieres. The intendant has the greateft
power next to the governor-general j he pays
all the money of government, and is prefi-
dent of the board of finances, and of the
court of juftice in this country. He is, how-
ever, under the governor-general, for if he
refufes to do any thing to which he feems ob-
liged by his office, the governor-ge«eral can
give him orders to do ft, which he muft obey.
He is allowed, however, to appeal to the go-
vernment in- France. In each of the capital
towns, the governor is the higheft perfon, then
the lieutenant-general, next to him a major,
and after him the captains. The governor-
general gives^ the firft orders in all matters of
confequence. When he comes to 7rois Rivieres
and Montreal^ the power of the governor ceafes,
becauf'i je always commands where he is. The
govcrnor-generi.iI commonly goes to Montreal
once every yeur, anu inOiuy m vviiiicr j anu

6 during

Montreal.

421

during his abfence from^«.^,^, the lieutenant-
genera commands there^^Wh^n the govcmor-

fen? f,^^' p'° °^ *•'* •'■"S'^ ''"P^ ^"= -annually
ent from Fra«« to CanaJa. carrvin.. recrnit,

d.ed in the fervice. or have got leave to fettle
ow""aI' Z' '-"'"---. or .0 return

manner. W,th thcfe people they likewife fend

found !"r ""?'" °'' P'^'"'""^' -ho ha e S
found gu.lty ot imoggl.pg in Fr.„,e. TheJ

vrJLtT -r '°fr""^ '" 'he gallies. but at

fhet a,e frL /'"" '° ,"'^ ^°'°"'"' -here
iney are tree as foon as they arrive and .•;,n

*hoole what manner of life they p ealb hiZ
never a,h,wed ,0 go out of the'/ou ^/t .f!
out the fc.ng's ipecial licence. The ki, J's ftL

^hich ,■""!' ^^r' '^i!''"'"^ °f '""chandtz^
which tne kmg h,is bought, in order ,0 be

d>ftr.b.ued a.nong the Mia.s on certain occafi-
ons The .nhabitants of Ccwa^a pay very little
to the king. In the year , 748, a beginin^ w i
however made, by laying a du.v of thrtZ'

chants of-C,,ada. A regulation was likewife
made at that fme, that all the furs and Ikins
exported to Fra,u-e from hence, fl.ould pay a
certain duty; but what is carried tn ,h. Jd.:..-

pays nothing. The merchants

E

of all

parts ot

fl

i

422

OBober 1749.

El'.

'^P' 'ill' ll

f,(,.j«'!|ji

! r^

)

^1 f)

■^Wi,l

France and its coloaies, are allowed to fend
Ihips witii goods to this place; and ^t§luebec
merchants are at liberty likewife to fend their
goods to any place in France^ and its colonies.
But the merchants 2X§luebec have but few fhips,
becauf^ the failors wages are very high. The
towns in Fr^;«f^ which chiefly trade with Canada^
are Rofhelk and Bourdeaux; next to them are
Marfeilksi Na7Jtes, Havre de Grace, St. Malo,
and others. The king's ftiips which bring
goods to this country, come either from Breji
or from Rochefort. The merchants at ^lebec
fend flour, wheat, peafe, wooden utenfils, &c,
on their own bottoms, to the French pofleffions
in the Weft-Indies. The v/alls round Montreal
were built in 1738, at the king's expence, on
condition the inhabitants fhould, little by little,
pay oflf the coft to the king. The town at pre-
fent pays annually 6000 Uvres for them to go-
vernment, of which 2000 are given by the femi-
nary of pricfts. At Quebec the walls have like-
wife been built at the king's expence, but he did
not redemand the expence of the inhabitants,
becaufe they had already the duty upon goods
to pay as above njentioned. The beaver-trade
belongs folely to the Indian company in France,
and nobody is allowed to carry it on here, befides
the people appointed by that company. Every
other fur trade is open to every body. There
are feveral places among the Indians far in the
country, where the French have ftorcs of their
goods ', and thefe places they call les pojies.
The king hriS no other fortreffes in Canada than

. Montreal,

423

St. Frederic, K>t Crownpoint, Montreal, Fron-
tenac. and Ntagara. All other places belong

to go to trade with the Indians muft have a li-
cence from the governor-general, for which he

going to IS more or lefs advantageous for trade
A merchant who fends out a boaf laden with all
orts of goods, and four or five perfons with it

V^y^'^ ^"" ^'' °' "'^ ''""dred lir/es fo
he permiffion .- and there are places for which

canL^^r \''l°"'"^»d 'ivres. Sometimes one
cannot buy the hcence to go to a certain trading
place becaufe the governor-general has grant!
Ir'rZ- "iV° ^'"l' " '° f"-"" acquaimance

« ant^oVf- ''• '^'1! r^'y """"'"g f'o-" 'he
g anting of l.cenccs, belongs to the governor.

£04

INDEX.

I'

'mm

f

'i|

T Itl, <

"•'«i.

7

i

ii„

t^.

, iMI

!ij ii|i

■t

■

1

1 •;

1

mtii

■J 1

I N D E X.

ALBANY, town of, ii. 82.
Alders, i. 152.
Algonlcin words, ii. 338.
American nigh efliade, i. 74, 15,.
ravages, i. 77. ii. 1,/

deer, i. 162.

~~— colonics, i. 206,

~ agriculture, ii. 45.

Ames, ii. 322.

Anne fort, near Canada, ii. no.

Antiquities found in North-America, ii. 270.

Ants, ,. X29, 134, 238, 364, 365. ^^

Apocynum androfamifoliumt ii. 201 .

Arhor yita^ '»• 313.

AfcUptOi SyriacCf ii. 202;

Afli, i. 53.

Afp, i. 408.

Azores, i. 4;

Badger, i. 148.
Battoes, ii, 192;

Bears carnivorous in North-America, i. qi.
Beairers, 1. 162, 358. ^

— --t^ee, i. 160. ii. 63, 69.
Beech, 1. 54.

Beetles, ii. 5, ,9, 62, 468.

Bees, i. 226.

Birch-tree, i. 108.

Blubbers, i. 12.

Blue-bird, i. 366.

Blue Mountains, ii. 78, 8t.

Bonetos, i. 17,

Bottle-iiofe, a kind of whale, • 14.

Buck wheat, i. 273.

Bugs, i. 3,9. ii. 25.

Isuil-frogs, II. 29.

Burdock, ii. 202.

Burlington, in New-Jerfey, ii. 67.

Button wood, i, 54. ^ '

f '1

I

Candle*

s

11:

ft /.

INDEX.

Candlebfrry-tree, i. 150.
Carabut latusy i. 364.
Carolina^ its produce, i. 218.
CaJJta ChannecriJIa, i. 94.
Cat hird, i 48.
Cedai-trce, ii. 33,
Champlain lake, ii. 203.

Charaaers of the French and Engllfli women in North-
America compared, ii. 224.

of the ladies in Canada, ii. 400.

Chcfnut-tree, i, 53.

Cherry-tree, i. 5.

Chichefter, i. 126. . • . .

Clertry of Canada, ii. 289.

Cockroaches, i. 321

Conoes fall, in the river Mohawk, ii. m.

Collmfonia Canadenfis^ '• '54'

Comarum palujlre^ 1 108

Copper, native, from the Upper Lake, li. 399,

Cornua Ammonii^ petrified, ii. 203.

Ccryphana Hippurus, i. 15.

Cotton plant, ii. 25.

Cows in Canada degenerate, ii. 327.

Crab-tree, ii. 26.

Cranes, i. 367.

Crickets, i. 318, 365. ii. 256. "

Crown Point, ii. 207.

Cryflals, tranfparent, i. 64.

Currants, i 53. ii. 14, 233, 334.

Cuitard apples, i. 55.

Dandelion, ii. 190.
Deal, i. 2.
Deer, ii 50.
, Delaware river, i. 8, 37.
^y\ci in Canada, ii. 323.

Diftempers among the Indians, ii. 205.
Dog.fifl}, i. 14.

Dog-, ood, i. 158. ii. 24.

Dogs-bane, i. 103.

Dogs trained to draw water from the river, ii. 325.

— — put before flfdges in winter, ii. 326,

Dolphin, or dorado, i. 15,

Dracontium faetidtmi^ i. 381.

f N D E X,

Flder-trce, i. 52. ii. ,21, 122.

Llizabcth Town, i. 182.

Elm, i. 53. ii. 92, 129.

Kfquimaux, ii. 362.

Evergreens in North-America, i. 281.

Europeans in North America before Columbus, i. 335.

Fertility of inhabitants, i. 314,

Fever and ague, i. 284.

Fire flies, ii. 90.

Fifh, flying, i. 16.

Fleas, original in America, i. 318.

Fort St. Frederic, or Crown Point, ii. 207.

John, in Canada, ii. 215.

Nicholfon, ii. 126.

Foxes, i. 220.

Franklin, Mr. his obfervations on America, i. ir6.
Fifhcnes, ii. 253. ^

ffogs* i. 379-

Gallium tln^orlnuni, ii. 191.
Gcefe cape, ii. 344,
Gentian^ i. 108.

German town in Penfylvania, i. 60, 146.
Giants pots, i. 95.
Gmfcng, ii. 270.

Gnaphalium margaritauum, i. 102.
Goofe-foot, i. 93.
Gourds, i. 271. ii. 388.
Grafs-worms, i. 317.
Guinea pepper, i. 58.
Gulls, common, i. 18.

Hares, i. 82.

Hatchets of the Indians, i. 340.
Helebore, i. 382.

Herrings, curious account of them, i. 220.

Hiccory, i. 51.

Hinds, tamed in North^America, ii. 250.

Hinlopen cape, in Penfylvania, i. 8,

Honey locuft-tree, i. 55.

Hopnifs, i. 385.

Horfes in Canada flrong, ii. 327.
Humming bird, 1. 164. ii. 253.
Hurons, an Indian nation, ii^ 320.

Jerfcy

-VI:

INDEX.

Jerfey pine, i. 261.

Indians, livelihood of the, i, 401. ii. 276.

■— traffic, ii. 390.

barbarity, ii. 187.

Iron, i. 236.

Juniper- tree, ii. 34, 37.

Kalmia hi'tfcVta^ i, 53, 336.

angujlifoliay ii. 64,

Katnifs, i. 386.

?jomv

Lawrence, St. ii. 269.

Lead-veins near Bay St. Paul, ii. 346.

Lepas anatiferaj i. 12. ,>i ..

Licences for marrying in America, i. J3^.

Lime-tree, i. 54.

Lime-flates, black, ii. 3.71.

Lime-ftone, pale grey, i. 66.

Linnaa horealis^ i. 108.

Locuft-tree, i. 54.

Locufls, i. 316.

Loreite^ ii. 307.

Long ifland, ii. 73.

Lupinui perennisy ii. 17.

Lynx, ii. 52.

Maize- thieves, I. 368. ii. 110. ^^^.::

Maiden-hair, ii. 274.

Maple, red, i. 131, 392.

Marangoins, a kind of gnats, ii. 217.

Marriage ceremonies, i. 331.

Martins, ii. 11.

Meadows, how watered, i. 241.

Mtloe majaiis, i. 39-^.

Meteorological obfervations, ii. 146.

Mickmacks, an Indian Nation, ii. 321. .'

Mirk, i. 359,

Mocking bird, i. 170.

Moles, a kin.' of, i. 149.

Mciitmorenci v/ater-fali, ii. 358.

Montreal, a great town in Canada, ii. 236.

account of the ?limate of, ii. 239.

Moofe-deer, i. 232.
Moufe-wood, ii. 12.

^.v^ountsiii--

iv^ountsiii-

^ N D E X.

Mountain-afli, ii. 299.
Mountain-flax, i. 237.

Mulberry tree, 11.40,97,231.

Mullein, 1. loi.

Mufcovy glafs, j. 66.

Muflc rats, i. 355. ii.„g. •,^^,

Mufquitoes, 1. 112, 209. ii. 133.

Natural hiftory promoted in Canada, ii. ,8,
Negroe Haves in North- America, i. 310 ^'

NeTi~5d,U7T;''"'^'P^''^"'^'3I3.

-Brunrwick, i. 17B.

Newcaftie, a town in Penfylvania, i. 21.
■- — —-. founded by the Dutch, ibid.
New Yoflc, i. 192.

•"■ ■ affembly, i. 202.

ZTZTT" P°''^2nd trade, i. 197.
Nicholfon.fort, near Canada, ii. 126.

Oaic,i.5, 52,53.
Uemthera biennis^ ii. 418.
Orleans, Ifle of, ii. 332.
Orantiutn, i. 389.
Oyfters, how pickled, i. i8^.

Paper-currency of Canada, ii. 2 ^54.
Parfneps, ii. 233. ^

Partudges,i. ,64,351.11. 226.
bt. Paul's bay, ii. 336.

Peafcdeftroyed by an infefl, i. 136.
Jredtinices, ii. 197. "^

Penn's Neck, i. 324.
Penny Royal, i. 152.
Perfimon, i.54, 270.
Petite Riviere, ii. or?..
Petrel, i. ,7. '^^

Philadelphia, capital of Penfylvania, i. 22.
rierre a Calumet, ii. 360.
Pierre, St. ii. 245.
Pigeons, wild, i. 374.

fine, {.54,281,282.
P antam, i. 92. ii. 345,
Pieur.ry, 1. 294.
* iuiiiD-irec, i. 53.

f-:.?uta?;|

■antyt

! il

i

Polecat,

I N p E X.

Polecat, American, i. 213.

Polytrichum commune , i. 144.

Pontederia cordata, ii. 384.

Porpefle, i. 13. ii. 354.

Potatoes, Bermudian, i. 142. ii. 89. .

Potentilla fruticofa^ i. 108.

Prairie de Magdelene, ii, 221.

Privet, i. 67, 129,

Pumpions, ii. 389.

Purflane, ii. 118.

Pyrites, cubic, i. 65.

Quebec, the chief city in Canada, ii. 257.

Raccoon, i. 163, 360.

Rapaapo, ii. 28.

Rafberries, ii. 298.

Rattle-fnake, i. 248.

Reafons for fuppofing part gf North-America was formerly

under water, i. 104, 157.
Red-bird, i. 366.
Reed-mace, ii. 351.
Rein-deer mofs, ii. 288.
Remarks upon North- America, i. S^,
Rhus Radicam-i i. 139.
Robin-red-breaft, i. 381.

Rock-flonefij ii. 196. • ; , .

Rum, obfervations on it, ii. 72.
Rye, ii. 45.

Sage, ufcd in fevers, i. i8g.

Salem, a little town in New-Jerfey, ii, 24.

Sallad-tree, i. 54.

Saratoga, ii. 122.

Saroihra gentlanoideSy i. 98.

SaflTafrasi-tree, i. 1 34, 266. ii. 23, 230.

Saw-millK, ii. 124.

Scarabam^ i. 364.

Sca-iien, i. 19.

Servants, different kinds of, i. 303.

Shear- water, i. 18.

Silk manufadture, i. 97.

Sifon Canadenfe^ ii. 202.

S'oe Ihrub, i. 53.

Smilax kur'ifolw^ ii. 41.

.J

anaKc-

\ r.\ f: r-Hi>

vi

was formerly

,:. f-

anaKC"

Snake, black, ii. 54.

Snow-birJ

»';.35i» 374.

Snow-hens, ii. 226.

Soap-ftone, i. 234.

Soeurs de Congregation, ii, 418.

Spanifli needles, i. 134. .^j

Spoon- tree, i. 263. ^ .

Squirrels, i. 75, 243, 245.

btatcn ifland, i. 183.

Sturgeons^ ii. 1 14.

Sumach, i. 59, 139.

Swallow, ii. 5.

Sweet fern-tree. i. 126. ii. 22.

Tallow fhrub, i. 150.
Tar, ii. 351.

Tawho, or Tawhim, i. 387.
Terns, i. 18.
Thorn-apple, i. Jig.
Thuja occidentals, ii. 314.
/ritmoufe, great, i. 19.
Tooth-ach, how cured, i. 32-.
Treesof America, i. 51. '^
Trenton, i. 173.
Trientalis Europaa^ i. 108.
Triglothln maritimum^ i. 108.
Trois Rivieres, a town in Canada, ii. 247.
Tropic -bird, i. 18. '

Truffles, i. 224.
Tulip-tree, i. 292. ii. 62.
Tulipotree, i. 52.
Turlcy cocks, i. 164.
Turtle, 1.17.

Vervain t i. 93.

Vines, i. 52.

Virginian maple, i. 48,

_ azarole, i. 52, 90.

^ajjg fgbjj,^ -^ ^^^

Walnut-tree, i. 53.
Wampum, ii. 100.
Wafp-nefts, curious, fi. 3.
Water- beeches, i. 259. ii. 231.
-" ' '-- melons, ii o^-

■y^.

,«■

/ 1

■s~j-

A

Whip.

mW'^

I N: J^ 5 X.

Whip, poor- Will, ii. 14.
WhortJe- berries j i. 373.
.V/ilmington, i. 116, 122.
Winds, changeable about the Azores, i. 4.
Wine, i. 98, 297.
Winterberry-tree, i. 54.
Wolves, i. 223.

Women in Canada, drefs of, ii. 244.
Woodlice, ii. 133.
Woodpeckers, i. 20, 116, 377.
Worm-feed, i. 128.

Yams, ii. 65.

Zizant aquatua^ ii. 205, 223.

FINIS.

v\

i:

DIRECTIONS to the BINDER.

Raccoom
Flying Sqjjirrel
PuRPL£ Jackdaw
American Pigeon
Mocking Bird
CoHOEs Fall
Map

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