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NOTES ON THE NATURaj, HISTORY AND
PHYSrOGEAPIIY OF NEW BRUNSWICK.

MY W h\ (JAN()X(i.

23.-
24.-

25.

26.-
27.-

28.-

29.-
30.-

31.-

-Ti.K Forestry Problem ix Nkw BRux.svvinK

-Cost of a Topo..r.u>hical Survey ok New Brunswick.

-What ,s the Hiohest Land kv New Hrunswick /

-On a Division ok Xmv Brunswick into P.iYsiu.RAniu-

Districts.

-On a marked Brows.nk-epkect observed near St

Stephen.

^A. Ophca,. Illusion „. ,„« P„>,,. Bo„s or C,u„L„rr.

UOUNTY.

-On the Physiographv ok the Nictor Lake Remon
-Pkoposals for a Nomenclature ok unnamed New

Brunswick Hills and Mountains.
-On Hkiohts determined with Aneroid in 1899.

Heprfnted ffom Bulletin No. XVIH. Natural H

«T. .lOIIN, N. B., TANADA •

Barnes & Co., Phince William Strekt.
J 899.

frnir

0

[Bull. Nat. Hist. Soc. N. Brit.vsw'k, XVIII., Vol. IV, p. 227,
Ht. Jolm, N. B., Imie, 18<J!).]

ARTICLE V.

NOTES ON THE NATURAL IJISTORY AND PHYSI
OGRAniY OF NEW BRUNSWICK.

By W. F. «anon(;, Ph.D.

23.— The Forestry Proijlem in New Brunsw

ICK.

(Read March rth ; revised December, 1809,)

The greatest natural source of wealth of New Brunswick lies in her
forests. These are steadily deteriorating. The public is uninformed
and hence indifferent as to their fate. These three facts constitute a
forestry problem of the gravest character, and one vastly important to
the future of this province.

Probably there is no other part of the earth's surface that origin-
ally bore a nobler forest on a land so richly watered. Some of the
most valued timber trees of the northern temperate zone grew in New
Brunswick, and completely clothed her hills and valleys from her farth-
est inland waters all around to the sea. Every part of the province is
penetrated by streams which, while swift, are never torrents ; and
these by the melting of the abundant snows of winter are made pass-
able for the lumber which thus ir.y be carried cheaply into the many
large nvers, and down these to h... Iiarbors at their mouths. Immense
tracts in the province are admirably adapted for tree growing, and are
useless for any other known purpose. Thus has Nature provided in
New Brunswick the conditions for a great industry, and thus does
she point out our most profitable occupation for the future, when
lumbering must be based upon forestry, which consists not in the
hunting of trees but in their cultivation.

In the meantime, however, New Brunswick forests are bein- irre-
trievably damaged. T do not now refer to defects in forest regulations
systems of cutting, stumpage, etc., for I know nothing about this
subject. I have inferred, however, from the numerous newspaper
writings of the late Edward Jack, who knew these matters so practi-

238

BULLETIN OF THK NATIM.AL n,STO»V SOCIETV.

i« the sreat far™t fir™ It "rr„t „„T ,T ^ T"'""' '"""' "'"' "'"'
n,akes tho,,e Area so had f„ ' "I V '""^^ "'"^ ''"»'™^ "'"
re.torod but iti, Vh S"""'"""- "r two it may he parliaily

.•.,e.4 it c:Ut ' o'^pTrrirr'tZ fV "•-"' -^ ""- '"■'
it Jt a ;::,: ""^ ^ ' """^"^'-^ ""■-" °^ -^ fo-t l

out oy the gicat hros, and the rain washes the enrtl, nir ;„, .w
streams, leaving behind but th. n.i, i , ""'

Most of H,„, ■. , , ^ '■"*■''■ ''<""'le to vegetation

PC od a ,d ,::'' ™ •"""'^i"'"^ ""^--'ly "y 'I- ice of th: glacial

manent destru t^ to te f^Ind ""' °' """ P-'i-"y per-

T ^""^ ^" ^" »rea many miles square on

«.ou 1 oTt e ve TuTu ll" 'T"7 ' "°""'"'""' ^"'"«' »' "•»
years a^o wasZ. ^ """^ ^''''''^ '«'""'«'' » «'•'> twenty

areas in the T '" '™*- ™'' '» "" ''^'■■•«°«' «=■««, but large

vZ„ f f "■"T" '"'™ '"*"•"' '" ''"' "'"" I"'' degree. The pre

:r°t" hi/ri'^rLtttir r " '-^^'^^ -^ -^ --"
«::: xtTe: :ii:tr„r -r "— -

well be combined with that of 7.U T ^' '^"^'' '"'^^"^ "^^

some DhasP. of 1 r ^""^ ^^""^ ^^'^^^«' ^^d even with

some phases ot lumber surveying.

But in addition to loss of t.mber and permanent injury to the soil
there areyet other losses suffered through the deforesting oTacountrT
Aj^^^f^o^na. still unsettled question as to the effect'of forlu/on

cludltg their recem " P,l„,er ot Fore.lry " S ar « , f"""'""™' «' Agrlcullure, !„■
m.nt. .„d .1.0 u, the report „, ,i« S7, Fo^l^to^" '''" ''°°'" °' "" "*"»"■

NATURAL ...STORV AND MIV«„„„A,.„v OF VMC IWUS.WIOK. 229

»tu,lc, t, th.nk an, ,„e,e«sod by tl,„ p,.„,e„c„ of fo^t,, to the .r.,.t
a,lv„„t„,.o of tl,„ f.r„„.r) it i, .verywhe.e known that t ,o .vn,!™

of ex remo low watrr altonutting witi, ,l,.,t,uctivo II„o<l». Tl i, not
only .nterfere, with navigation upon tl.o „„ • river,, l,ut,,"v

great p aot.oal unportance i„ the near future, since, a, the leadin.
aut or,t,es agree, the i„,pr„ve,„ent» in the oolulueti n of ^ol '

IteHt, notion of forest,, too, destroy, their game-produeing power and
the fi,,pro,|„c,ng power of their ,trea,„,, and hence r.^novestl"
att actton to wealthy ,port,n,„„ whom New Brunswick i, d„in.

wh.O, a people may sufler w,th loss of their forest,, will occur to all

same los.e, though these are far less in degree than Arcs entail
farmer' "" '"^"""■T'™"- '"""«'' P-'iaily ^.pt intac .;
In ,1.1,; T; : °"' *:'«""■«»"• "^ '•- lo- ■•» "-vofdahle

so etim " r"P"""'" ;r "-» »-'•"■ Especially reckless lumbering

p e,ent day the forest, are threatened by a new ,langer-tl,e rapacity
of pulp.„„ls, wh.c take lumber even a, small a, flvf inches Z^
and hence pract.cally clear the land where they operate leaving U,2

to operate ,n New Brunswick ,n a way to deforct any piece of land

int. Id th , ;" """•^' "»™8™™' - ■■" keep a forest

-y which the "" r °"'^ '^ * '^^'^■" »' ™"'"°" i" -"i"».

iToZ The '"^«':."^^^'"°- -= -"oved, the smaller being left to
grow^ The prevention of forest fires, and a wise system of cuttin.
would make the annual lumber crop as certain and^as cont nuou a.!

ot Zl m : '"'"J""'^'' "» P™'P-ty and contentment of
our people. What would it not mean to Charlotte county to-day if

brrJtTv^;, "" *"" ^"^"^""^ ^"' ^-^^ """ l-^ '«' '-* Udly

2.30

BVLUms OF TMK NATUKAf. HISTORY SOCIETY.

T fj ; u '^""'Ofl'iy It will. 1 hero IS one .situation, however in whirl.

In M .„l,„ ,„„l Charlotte cuntte,, an,l in le,«r degree ■„ „,|,e ' ,",
of .e ,„,„,„„, are many al,a,„l„„e,l fa,-,,,,, growing up in tree ,,

:o:::.;:;,:,i"™" ""-: -- ''.^'™- "- ■- -^ wo:,:,:::!, i:

;t» borro.-,,, eap,.ity, „a„. Carl "L':,',; f«" .,: if Z'rf „ T't'

mc^'no\Z Tl"' ''"""'"■■''"'•• " «:»™™".ent a, that of New Bruns-

opt:,," ;T ™ "'" "'''"'' '» '"'"' "'»P» ■>»' b-ked by pul. io
opinion. Any movement entailing mud, present Pvn.„„ t ,•

-urn would undouUedly ,„ c„nje,„ne,i 'yZZ^ loT"'

e great importance of this »ul,Jeet to the f'ture":;' e p-oti e JeT:

e , i„ty of n„ g„,.„„,„„„t t„ ^^1^^ ^^^ g_^

be towa,,!., the acquisition and dissemination of knowM^e unonTw
-bject of forestry in al, its aspects and in its relation to iS „Z
«uoh as ,.a,„e preservation, (ishing licenses, watc-powers loca^n '^

Th? experitce of ,7'° ■"'»""«™'"" "' "-- ««" Public interests,
xiie expenence of other countr es shows that ^i,ph ,.,• i u-

■nvestigation must be made independent of the eienterT.o"!

po t,c ,,ieh can be done only by placing the who;:°: t LT

lands „ a comm.ss.on, unpaid except for expenses, composed of the

■ o poor that she cannot command this service hom her sons.
24.- Cost of , Topoceaph.cal Subvev op New Bbunsw.ck.

(Re»d April 4tl), 1899).

In a former note upon this subiecfc CNn li\ t ■ ^ j
survev of K««, u • , »"^'jecc (JNo 14), I pointed out that a

NATURAL IIIHTORY AVD IMIYSKMiKAPIiy OF VRW nUUNHWICK. 231

perhaps .^500.000. AFr. Henry CJann.tt. (ioo^rapl.er of th. I'nite.l
Htaten Ge<,lo.McaI Hurvey. an.l the Lading American authority upon
th,H subject, in acknowIoHginK the receipt of a copy of the afore .nVn-
tionetl note, writes me as follows : •< Hoforring t.. what y..u say
concernw.« a survey of the province, let me suggest that a scale of
about two miles to an inch is su.liciently hu-ge for present re.,uire-
men s. Ih.s .s the scale which we are using in this country fo. the

faror" "^"'"' '"' '""''"'^ '"' '^"'' ''' "• '''' "'"^'^' '"'•'^^ -^'«-
"The expense of a survey for this scale, including all the opera-
tions incdent to the prouuction of the n.anuscript maps an.ounts on
an average, to about $5.00 to a square n.ile, which for the an.a of
New Brunswick, will he about .* 140,000, ^.hich is not a prohibitive
price to pay.

A very complete, and of course authoritative, account of the
methods of conducting topographical surveys and of constructing
topographicU maps is given by Mr. Gannett, in his ''Aims and
A ethods of Cartography " recently published by the Geological Survey
of Mary and (Special Publication, Volume U., Part IIIa, 1M)M. Ja
this work IS invaluable to all interested in this subject

A topographical survey of New Brunswick must in time be under-
taken, and so great will be its scientific and economic benefits that
this Society should use its utmost inlluence to have it begun as soon
as possible.

25.-_WnAT IS TiiK HioiiEST Land in Nkw Bhunswick?

(Read April 4th ; re-written December, 1890.)

In former notes of this series (Nos. 5 and 19), it was pointed out
that two hills compete for the honor of being the highest in .New
Brunswick, namely : Big Bald Mountain on the South Branch of Ne-
pisiguit, and another unnamed mountain three miles south of Mount
Sagamook near Nictor Lake. The latter of these two, I shall for
reasons to be given in a later n.yce (No. 30) call Mount Carleton *
^ej'ejght of Big Bald was measured in 1880 by Mr. Ells, and

Which is called Bald brthT^uldes Id ote ^'nH ""^"^ 'f '"^^'^- '' '' ^'^^""-'^
appears Idtherto to have beerenttLruJnamed ''"^ ''"''''■ *'°"''' ^^^'^^»«"

23-2

BULLETIN 0. mv. NATUBAL niSTORV SOCETV.

found to be 2,500 feet, „, given i„ his Geological report Th ,

Kical map marks it, liowever «« o 7nn f . "'"s'™! report The geolo-
one wl,o ha,, measured it ?v, ! ' "' "' '*'''- ^"^ " ">e only

follow, : .. S a, t! ,et r I"' ""':'™"'' '"' ""*""y -""^ - -

Mountain, .sout": , fa ';epi:i:':ir::"a:^ "r ""'""' -^ ^«^'"<'

with the aneroid, Mr. Ull, and T , "" " '""''""'' '" ''° «»

and barometric :eading a^: ' ifl '"T '^""'""^ °'" "" "'"-
taken while .oina un rij f i . ' ° "''"' »' "''^'"""S'. »"«

when returning \ZrLr T ''"■'°"'' '"^ °'"" "™

in. out the figu'r::;: '::;:! ;-' i?"'"* 7™™- '-- ^^ork.

W M. «,,.„,,,,,.„,;„„ „^;f;"«f '^".--'-^ to be very close,
level." This gives ■. ,!,.« , f """'"' "> *« -'.7-'5 Ae( «6„t.e «„

n-iyassigneTrtiit;™::.;;:" '"'"^ '"•''" -' -^^ '~

heret^lTe!::'^ l:'':''°'«^: -^ ''-'™'' Mount Caneton, are

n.adeitbydC^::ij:::t-:,Va::;o-:'u^/;T^rT'-^''''- '

Sagamook, and thi, 1 made by a m"";! f '''■' '''™ ''"""'
feet above Nictor Lake. Nictor JaTe n Tv """'™^™''"'^. '.633
.ueasurements, all corrected rot „ ^ * """'" "' '''"'■'<''^'>

(see later i^otl .31) S.;? rZ ea telT'^'ld'T:''''^™'™'

3,383 feet above the sea level ,T '' ""'^^ '^'"''''^''

this result is consider ly low ThTf" ""h"","'' '"'"•"^'' "-'
move, sli<;htly slug„ishlv and 1 u '" "^ barometer

Niotor La\-e and l« MoZIin'h " "^' ■"-urements of

rosuhs. Thus Mr Shrimer u ,"'" *"'" ™">^i<l'"-ably higher

feet, and Sagamlk . '^hX 0::?\"' "'T', ^^"^ ^ "^
2649 feet. There i, hnwev ■ ^'"" °'"'''"°" """"W '»'

and n,ou„tain JhlhinotT: dir rd^ U "^"'"™'"'' °' '"^-"'
they were made with n.ercunal barTm Tu" '"^'"'"y ''"'='

reliable than aneroids. In L °"' 7 "" ""■' "'""^ ""'^

checked by comparison with « . ''"'' °' ™'='' measurement.,
ried across'^the 1:™" bT!: "rt"""™ "' *'™'"' '''"'»■ ^^ ^-
employed by the Br t" h ^, ^ ""' ^'"'' ''>' ^ -^■■- ^ghtman,

of the highland of t e if .""T '" ™""'^""'"' "'* "■« -^'"-dation

foil in ti!, B Ilk ..ret: t^r'". ■"" ""' '^'""^ "« «'™" -

of his measurements hower wht t^'T ''°""'"^'" ''"■ ^"

ever, while relatively accurate, are absolutely

Bald

NATURAL HISTORY AND PHYSIOGRAPHY OP NEW BRUNSWICK. 233

too low, and we must apply to them a correction of fully 100 feet.*
As the mean of many careful observations he made the surface of
Nictor Lake 777 feet above the sea, i. e., with the correction 877 feet
He made Bald Mountain (or Sagamook) 2496 feet, i. e., 2596 with the
correction. If to this we add the 112 feet which Carleton surpasses
Sagamook or Bald, we have as the height of Carleton 2708 feet, which
18 very close to the 2715 of Big Bald.

If one were to take Hind's correction of 123 feet for Wightman's
results, instead of the 100 here adopted, it would make Carleton 2731
feet, thus surpassing Big Bald consideral)ly. I by no means think,
however, that reliance can be placed upon these latter figures, but they
at least should make us cautious in forming a judgment as to which is
the higher mountain. Big Bald and Carleton must be very near the
same height, with the probability in favor of Big Bald. The relative
heights could be best settled by a comparison of careful theodolite
measurements made from the summit of each upon the summit of the
other.

26.— On a Division op New Brunswick into Physiographic

Districts.

(Read May 2nd, 1899.)

Whoever attempts a systematic description of any class of facts or
phenomena, or treatment of phases of local history, for the whole of
New Brunswick, must feel the need for some natural and recognized

Tnhn y'^'"e!*"'« fl^'-^^ ^'•e too iow, becEuse it was assumed that the levels along the St
John, from P redencton to Grand Falls, made in 1826 by Foulis, were correct, whereas they

rXcaS": r^'T^r'*'"- H'"<^^«-'°g'-l report, 'l865..1)has^hown,lhJ
north r;;„ ^ir"',? from levels taken by Graham in connection with the survey of the
aCt .^ Lt tt'fn *'-°"\^^°«« «" ^^<^ ^y-' "O'^d, he reasons that Foulis' fl Jre. are
Jetlenhord nf hI H Othfr measurements by Wightman himself show a discrepancy
ex«7^ned hv ^h« ?^^ Frederlcton and high tide on Bay Chaleur of 77 feet, which is

S3 a^St Tohn'Th-^' "' '^'^'^ "'*^ "'^^^ atFredericton being 80 feet above high
69) thit ml! ; "J-H. /^'T "r ''°°^ '^^rroneous, for Duff has shown (this Bulletin, XV.

reTtil ffr wfl In '' "*. '""I'T^ *' ''°*^ ^^^'''- ^"' ' t'*""^ Hind puts the cor-
Se the fT f t r ^'^^ ? ^'^^' '"' ' "'•"'^ ^"•^^^"^'^ ««"^« of 419 feet for the river
tivTtf ^" "■*?° ^'^^- »«s higher than the Royal Road levels. Graham, moreover,

mea u~?s"oMh "' T"' 'Jn""' ''• ^'"''•^ ^ '^ '''' ^^'"^ "-«» ''^e at Calais ; late
the mZ' entf ll. Trt'l "' ""'^"'^ '^''' ^''°'" ^^^'^'^ '''''' '« continuous deadwater to

Ses thoLh^f w» 5 rZ^'T "' '*^' '° ^''°^ ^ correction of 100 feet to Wightman's
sullied bvwlLr , \1 •''' '^"■* «°'>««'^ative we might restrict it to the correction
Dlus 3 fit fnVf ?^ !T'^^ '° ^'' difference of 77 feet above high tide in Bay Chaleur.
plus 3 feet to reduce the latter to mean tide, that is, In all 80 feet

234

BOLLETIN 01- THE NATUHiL HISTORY 80CIBTY.

division Of Ae province into districts In a wnri, n„

pletion I have had to n,ake such a division and th T """"^ """

seudy to the suhjeot, with the fo, o:° g r s„ ts Z TTrZ

fairly natural division in tl,„ ' ™''"'' " «™^™ie"t and

po Jis e,peci J ; l;i Le'X^r^""' ""t '"■ "''°™^' P""
distribution of settle.enl '"I " f 'riLTt ^ '"«"--^,''"'
^y^.en.s ,,y„nes drawn along their wl ^3^' ^J^ron tT

-o-^TnrL^.:-:-^^^^^^^^^^

course, no ,nere accidental coincidence, but i the rllt of a 't

and runningtr ^^^ ZTr:i:z:::'T'VT

ous y be convemVnf in ,^.^ ■ wdteisneds. It will obvi-

attention a Zb l "o ^e"?""!- "'""' *"™"' '° ^'^ ^ ■"-»
boundaries of the atter J 7^'' "™"'^ '""™"»' "-J '■<"""' *e

the natural!" There t '" settle doubtful points in

-;- rr -f r -— ^ =- :izrr i:::
r,t:3SLt::a:rcrtoi^^^^^^^^

of these faofnr« H,. ■ Taking into account all

appeart:r:;t,:::r:s t::::rthr '™'"" ™""

Natural division, should obviou lybe tnow^ 177"""°'' "■'"•
for which, happily, convenient IndL 1 ZTretv^ar"^ °""'^"

,— ^ "°™ ^ °^^^ Lepreuu to Martins Head.

causes: '^^^: :o:Tc' :r^\z:tz7''''' '^^ °^°^^ '^'^^^•^ ^« ^- *° ^^-

straight, while watersheds are crooLsIcoldtw '"""'"^ ''"^ "^'•'^'"^- ^^^^ "'^^e
perfectly known when some of the toes we^elt^h.^TTK^'^'f "' ''^^ P''°"'"'^« ^*« '»>-
n.n as it was supposed they would th rd «!« S " ' "'' ^"'^ *"'"'' ''''^ '"^ °°*

^nce and head so near the basins of o he s i't is nr„ t n' "'"''"^ '^'^ '° '^ '^'^''^^ «»« P™v-
heads to fail into other countLs Such i, Vh/ f '!^ "''''^ convenient to allo^ their

Wa.haden.oa. and Salmon IUvt:MiL"S;ehi:a;rSstrh;'^- ''^°'^ ""^ Maga.uadav.c,

of the ?Tnvir\(e o[

SCALE

MILES

Fi.. I.

Fu. 2.

'■^V^

SCOTIA

P

niLfS

5.

C.

D.

E.

III.

NATURAL HISTORY AND PHYSIO«RAP„Y OF NEW nRUNSWICK. 235

ting (^rand Rive, and Little Ri.^" H^^St /:, " ^'^^
^.n. and sepa^atin, the Pi.h Ri;er a.^^^^.^t' ^ '^"^
Ihelohcine (or Carl.ton. ViOoria) SnMiMrlct. Includes a l^mth of
a .ne separating Beca,ui,„ec. from Nacawicac and Na ht J t:^^
Eel R.ver fron^ Sheogo„.„o, crcs.ing the St. John on th d:.; o
the granite at Middle Southampton. ^

TheNa,h,raak (orYorIc SulMlistrlrt . Includes all no.f. f ,■

7'^e Oj-o;„o,Yo (0. (i)...;,..?.,,/...,/) S„h.di.trict. Includes all nnrM

: ml 0:: r" ""^"^"^^^ ^"^^ ^V-hademoak and b r^ei k e •'
and Oromocto crossing the St. John with the County line"

o t'^T'C"''' ^''' ''■ ''^'-■^-"f^) Snh.di.tric, I„ Ides all
south of the preceeding to the Bay of Fundy.

The Petitcodiac (or Wtstmorland-Alhert) JhSfHrf Tm.j i .1 ,

uns neacl to Cape Tormenting Ti.^ n i. i- ->i>t.r-

T^Ae Richibncto (or Kent) nistri.-t T„-.i 1 ^.i. , .

fr„,„ Cape To,..e.,u,:ef: p;',. s^::*' ^"" °'"" "" '■^™-

T'Ae Nepimiiint (or Glouceder) Di^fviot T„ 1 j ., -

Benea„„e po.r:e!::Ls::::c::;';t:':'r"' "■»- """

provmoe upon this basis. A general natural division is however
possible, as shown on figure 2. Although the geological L„ndJS:

IV.

VI.

VII.

36

nULLKTIN OF THK NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY'.

//.

///.

a. fai ly rhstmct, the accompanying topography is not, and. hence
Hharp hnes aro impo.ssiblo, and the boundaries shown on the map are
only approximate. Th." divisions may be named as follows :

ax,8 of the T rov,„ce, and culminatinc. in the hij^h hills, 20(M».'>7„o fee
'nH,-':, ■::;.'^'"'"' '^ heac,wate,.sof the Tohi.,ue, Nep.iguif

'"'t^e^Ti •"' ^'^'•^°'"^7- ^-•'^--' by ^owe.. Carboniferous
In irr; J ' " " P^"''P''""' '^ '»^'''^^^«^ in its western part an.l
Tr 7'. r r '' '"■'''""'■^* ^^ '"-''•« '"^ '« I""' ""'1 level.

.mmtes interm.xed with Silurian and Devonian rocks reachin.
H.gldand.. 1 h,s may perhaps better be called The Southern Ridye..

27.- OV A MARKED BroWSING-EFFECT OBSERVED NEAR St. StEPHEN.

(Read May 2nd, 1899).
Five miles below St. Stephen, on the peninsula between the St
Croix and Oak Bay, is a high granite hill, called locally Dickie's
Mountain. It is notable for the supurb view it commands, and is
recorded in the Society's Bulletin as the best mapped hill in New
Brunswick (Bulletin No. XVII, page 12.3). The top is largely bare
rock, but bears hei. and there small spruces, many of which aUract
attention through their unusual form, for they are hour-glass shaped
or at times like two cones, with the base of one resting upon the apex'
of the other (see the third in the accompanying Figure 3). The lower
cone IS the most symmetrical, extremely dense, and always approxi-
mately of the same height, as the axe introduced into the three figures
will show. The upper cone may be absent altogether, or developed in
various degrees, and is always loose in structure, and quite like any
other spruce. One is at first inclined to ascribe the appearance to
hpping by man or to some growth conditions peculiar to the locality
but It ,s no doubt a marked kind of browsing effect. The place is a
sheep pasture, and these animals probably bite off the young terminal

NATURAL HISTORY AND PHYSIOGRAPHY OF NEW BRUNSWICK. 237

buds in spring, forcing the plants to branch profusely, as a hed-e does
when clipped. This is confirmed by the broken appearance c,f the tips
of the branches. The sheep browse as high as they can reach, but finally
the main terminal bud gets beyond them and thenceforth develops

Fio. 3. lirowsiDff effect upon spruces.

normally. Three stages in the development of the upper cone are
shown in the three accompanying figures which are traced from photo-
graphs and therefore are accurate. No doubt this effect is common
enough, though I have seen it in but two or three other places, and
never so perfectly as here.

•28. -An Optical Illusion on the Peat Bogs op Charlotte County.

(Read June «, 1899)

In a paper on " Raised Peat-bogs in New Brunswick," published
two years ago (Trans. Royal Society Canada, new series. III, sec. iv
1 50) I pointed out what seemed to be a rising and sinking of the surface
of the Lepreau bog to an extent of several inches, under the influence of
weather conditions which I could not determine. The only rule about

the movement seemed tn Hr t.ln'o th«t ^*- -r— -- k- i - ' - ,, ,

-- , ..!.„t ,^ ,0oc 111 bnghc ana leil in dark

238

nULLKTIN OF THE NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY,

weather. Tn a letter dated July 1st, 1898, Dr. C. Weber, of Bremen
Unniany, a distinguished authority on Peat-bogs, gives me an entirely
different, and doubtless correct, explanation of the phenomenon which
he Illustrates by the accompanying figure (Fig. 4). He shows that it

Fio. 4. Diag am of rays over a raised peat bOR in dark and bright weather Hochmoor »
raised bo^ : B ^ its hitci.e.st part. Starker erw'IrmtB 1 VifK-nhT l
strongly warmed layer of air. •*'^''«^'' e^warmte Luftsch.cht -^ more

is an optical illusion, caused as follows : if in dull weather, the eye of
an observer standing near the margin of the bog {i. e., C in Fig 4)
be at such a height that the top of some object on the opposite margin
IS just vKsible, (^. .., A) the ray from one to the other will be straight
If now, the sun appears, the layer of air in contact with the boc. will
become more st ongly warmed than the layers above it, and hence it
will become rarified and less refractive. When the ray from the
object reaches this layer, it passes into a less dense medium and hence
bends from the perpendicular, i. e., away from the surface of the bog
{^. e. from 6 to E). In issuing from this layer, it re-enters the denser
ayer, and hence it will be bent towards the perpendicular, and there-
fore still farther upward from the surface {i. e., from E to F) Con-
sequently the ray will pass over the head of the observer rto F) who
finding It necessary to rise vertically some inches to again see the
object, naturally thinks the bog itself has risen.

29.- On tiik Piiysioghaphy of the Nictor Lake Region.

(Read December 5th, ]89»).
At the eastern head of the Tobique River, in the north of the New
Brunswick Highlands, lies Nictor, fairest of New Brunswick lakes
It IS absolutely.wild, unvisited save by an occasional sportsman or
naturalist, and may be reached only by a several-days' canoe journey
It is unsurveyed, wrongly mapped, and scientifically little known
For these reasons, the following observations, made during two visits

NATURAL HISTORY AND PHYSIOORAPHV OF NEW BRUNSWICK. 2r.9

to the Jake in 1898 and 1899, will douhtles.s be acceptable , and l,e-
cause of the great interest of the place. I shall trv to make my account
monographic.

Uistory. The lake makes its first appearance in historical records
upon Franquelin's fine map of Acadia, of 1686, (Fig. 5, A). He does
not name the lake, though he marks the portage' to Xepisiguit
(Oniguen is the Maliseet Oonegun-^ portage), and he names the
Little Tobique, Nipisiyooichkh, or Little Nepisiguit, probably its

•■-.._ tj.,"

B

Berton-/S37

LaTlier maps oi Nictor Lake
a\\ one-third. ono^^noX ^\it

Ml" \,

i - ^ ''I ^ ~

; ; i ■.ammk -. \ .
'-., - <iriatti '■■ / -

^'M ''/„, „..- f ^,-

cj

Fig. 5. Early Maps of Nietor Lake.

Micmac name. How remarkably this map influenced all others of
this region for over a century, I ],ave elsewhere traced.* The lake
next appears, though very imperfectly, upon the fine engraved Baillie
and Kendall map of 1832 ; but it was first sketched by a surveyor in
1835, when Garden made the MS. map shown herewith (Fig. 5, B)
In 1837 Deputy Berton made the MS. sketch shown in Fig 5 C
which is the original of every published map of the lake down to 'the
present day. In August, 1899, I made a survey of the lake, the first

maJlHeS.'" '^"'^''^' "^" '*^-- "^- "- '''^ ^^^^ '^^ ^^ Brunswio. part of the

a40

BUtlETlN OF THE NATUKAL lIlSTOnT SOCrETY.

ever made, re,,„lt,„« in the acc„,npa„yi„« map (Fi,, f,). j „„j „ j .^
P .»■„., cco,„pa,,, „„,, „ ,i„p,, „„„e.made app:™,. , „„" e ude
pnncple ,,r ,„oasunng distance, , tl.e general Ihape ,„uat be r!ll
accurate thongh ,t, proportion, „,ay .,e ,„n,ew.,a. in error * ^ ^
The lake must have wit„eH,ed event, of no ,m«ll interest b„t
.e,e are unwrmen and lo,t. It was one of the ,no,t antie, ' ^d
frequented h.ghway, „or„„ ,he province, and ha, ,een the pa, n^of
warr,or,, nunter,, n,i„i„„ary prie,t,, trader,, grand ,eignior" L
or, and ,ch„lar,. 1 1 wa, probahly ,on,ewhere in thi, vicinity , ha t"
good lather iernardin peri,hed „„ hi, way fro,n the Nepi,i/u te

print ,:;t""ih;' "7°'r' '' '"'""■'" ^'"^ ««' "-"» -^ "

prn.t that I have found „ in Wightman', report on haronietrie

ZZHZ'T'" "^j;'' r'-^-'i "• ^ "*i,h houndir '; :

but he leit „, no account of hi, travel,. Governor Gordon can,e in'
1863, and ha, left u, in hi, " Wilderne., Journey, " a mo,t intere,"

In a:;':thef oct;f >: ^iLTiTp"""^ ^^-"^ °^ ---^

fi n X. ^, , ^ ""-^ e seen in the province, except, neihans

he Bay ot Chaleur,," meaning, of cour,o, the head of theX aZe
I all ou„e. He gave to Bald Mountain the name Sagamook- mou ,
of ch,efe)--„h,ch ,t ,till hear,. Later in the ,ame year Profel
L W. Badey v.s.tcd the lake, and has given u, our'flr,t ,cient7flc
note, upon tt, part.cuiarly it, geology, t Since then Me,srs. Hind E la
Chalmer,, and Hay, have briefly visited it with re,,ult, contain d in
well-known report,.: There are reference, to Niotor Lake in va ioi"
report,, gu.de book,, sporting books, etc., but I believe the abTve
menfoned include all real source, of information. Nearly ever,
wr,^r, from Ciordon to the pre,ent, apeak, of the beauty of the lakT

onef T T '"■ °'' *" """ <^'«- ") -« '" -'» ot name
one .n Roman letter,, including thoae already more or less in use (for a

l.st of wh,ch I am indebted to Mr. George Armstrong, of Perth Centre)

lalrrh "' '°,;"'"' '"'''' ""^ ""P-^f- *eflr,ttim? S
latovIWe myself gtven, for reasons and upon a principle fully set

1 0«>loelo«l Reports; this Bullettolv.IM. ll-M. Nat., 18M).

,? r s. .. -> r ^

§a ft g -

Fio. 6. Map of Nictor Lake.

241

n

HULLKTIN <»K THE NATURAL HI8T0KY HOCIKTV.

forth
they

.the next note of thU serieH (No. .{0). M„a of them are
tly ^)laii.«d by the fuctH given in the preceding section i .
norate th(^ who have been in some way closely connected'
WHh the his, ry of the Uk.. Mot»ine Island describes its formation
*K a glacal moraine. Nictor is « corruption of the Maliseet Nictau

Fia. 7.

meaning Porks, and applied by the Indians to the main fork« of
lob,.,ue. K was extended to the Little Tobique, and then to the Lake
nescrtphon. The most striking and charming feature of Nictor
^^onsists m the splendid forested hills among which it winds In the
beauty of its hill scenery no other lake of the province can compare with
It. The nils are highest towards the east (their heights are upon the
map), and as one enters from the Little Tobique he sees the fine range

Fig. 8, " '

crudely shown in Figure 7. This figure will be sufficient to admit of
their identification, but gives no conception of their real grandeur In
some respects they show yet better from farther up the lake (Figure 8).
and here \^ stately form of Sagamook shows to best advantage.
Best of a.l, I -..v^r, ..ro the views from the little island under Saga-

I

i

I

f

I

MATURAr. MISTOUY AND I'll YSIOriUAPIl Y OF NKW HHirNSWirK. 243

mook, from which all the proinin-i' hilln uhout tho lake are vinihle
The view (o tl, .ant in tho finest a%>e 9), hut to the we,t it i., little
mfenor (FiK'u..- 10). Ahove all an.l over all, however, rowers grand
SaRamook. Kising steeply over sixteen hundr.nl ^V.-t dir-'ctly from
the lake, hif()if>r thai, uuv other New Brunswick .111 rises from the
water, clothed with living forest, oxcopt for a few l>old 1)ohs,,s near

v'

Bernard IK

^^^' or Bald)

>^^^^ a/on<7J/caorZa*e~^t^e eastward from J^isUors TslTn ;^

FlQ. it.

Ks summit, shrouded often in mists, it is easily the finest, even thou^^h
not the highest, of New lirunswick hills. I^ippy is he who, from th..
ideal camping place upon the island, can w.Uch day after day these
beautiful hills in their varying lights and coi .rs, and can know they
are his own.

Next in charm to the hills is the virgin forest which clothes them.
This is everywhere entirely unbroken, except f( r the few naked spots

Vieiv alon^ Mtctor Lccke to the ^eiturardfnn, l/zTitors JcL

FiQ. 10.

near the summit of 8agamook. There is no trace o fire, nor of the
lumberman. Probably in no accessible part of the pr .vince is there a
finer forest, or one more nearly primeval than this It is of the
mixed growth of our common provincial species, and it is a fine sight to
see tho splendid spruce in sombre green towering abc ve the le^'vel of
the brighter green hard woods. This forest owes it. preservation
to the expensiveness of driving lumber down the c ooked Little

244

BULLETIN OF TUB NATURAL HLSTORY SOcIKTy.

Tobique. But the shadow of the deadly pulp-mill already looms over
It, and Its glory will soon depart.

This forest is extremely rich in game, especially moose and deer
Ihe lakes contain many trout and other fish, though in this respect
they are inferior to the Nepisiguit lakes.

Physiouraphy. The lake i« 8G4 feet, more rather than less, above
mean sea level. Tts maxi.num depth is 07 feet, surprisingly little for
a lull lake.* This depth diminishes to only 28 feft dirtc'tly undt
^agamook and lessens eastward so that Mud or Herton I.ake. separa
ted from Nictor only by a morainic ridge and connected with it bv a
short brook falling fro„. one to two feet, is but a few feet deep
hough It ,s made thus shallow by deposits of organic mud similar to
llmt found in so many of our " mud lakes."t The shores of xNictor
are usually bold and rooky, but in places the shores are of loose
.norainic materials, and but rarely of gravel or sand. There are but
wo islands one of them narrow and low, apparently a moraine, and
he other of highly tilted slate rising abruptly fron. the bottom. The
hitter bears a few trees and bushes, and forms the most charmin.;
camping-ground that I know of in New Brunswick. Four large brook^
ilow into the lake,s, of which two, Bald Mountain and Carit,ou, flow
in broad deep valleys, which are doubtless the courses of ancient
nvers. Williams Brook is new, and has upon it, not far from the
mouth an irregular fall of some eight feet, whose murmur can be
heard from atar on still days, and the mist from which in certain
weathers hangs like smoke over the slope of Gordon. A striking
place IS Spring Lake, practically an immense spring with a summer
emperature of but 41'^ or 42". The lakes empty l>y tl.e Little Tol;:
a very winding stream of n.uch, though rather monotonous, beauty
but perfectly ideal for the amateur canoeman ^

Origin offheLak.. T believe the lake occupies an ancient valley
of erosion choked by glacial drift. As I shall show in a later note
the entire upper valley of the Nepisiguit is very ancient, and it could
no have emptied by its pre.sont course. It probably therefore ran
into Nictor Lake by way of the portage valley now followed by Caribou
I^-l^e valley of the Little Tobicjue, though perhaps post-glacial

♦The deepest known lake In New Brunswick is n^nr r,.t.> r
Bulletin. XIV, 48). "ninswick i^ Clear Luke, Lepreau, rs feet (this

t This Bulletin, XVf 1, 126.

i

i

NATUKAL HISTORY AND PHYSIOOHAPIIY OF NEW BRUNSWICK. 245

in spots, is certainly pre-glacial as a whole Bv .>« ^^^^ • i ,

The geology, as traced in general by Bailey, Ells, and Chalmers, is
shown upon the geological map. All the large hill, about the lake
and.ts entn.e eastern end are of Prccambrian felsites, but Silurian
rocks appear a the western en,l. One very renuukable fact about the
g 0 ogy of the lake, first referred to by Bailey, is the presence of the
httle .sland of slate, Visitor's Island, completely s„rrou,uI,,l by felsi
It may represent the remanant of a tongue of Silurian rocks extending
along the bed of the lake to this point, which would give a -M-ea ta '!
to t ,s valley. The island slopes down so steeply and "abrupt^; „, he
north 8,de as to suggest » fault running along the axis of the lake
Were It not for ,ts relatively enormous size, 100 feet long by 50 wide'
one would be tempted to view it as simply an o„or„,„us boukler. Mu^
th,s IS but one of the very many attractive problem, awaiting solution
in this region.

JVaturalllutonj. No study whatever has yet been made of the
^oology of the region, and but little of the botany

The Nei<jhhoriny Iliyhlands. To the north of the lake the moun-
tain ranges appear irregular, and T have not tried to work out their
particular arrangement. On the southern side, however, they are as
follows rSagamook is not an isolated mountain, but is the northern-
most o three parallel ridges forming together a great island or plateau

t^tX^V'!": "'i ''^"" "^^ — P-^ying the next
,, f^\ " P'^*^"^" ^'^' ^''^''' ^^^^ «n the north, the deep

valley of Caribou Brook and the portage on the east, Bald Mountain
Brook valley on the west, and a valley between Nepisiguit Lakes and
the Mamozekel on the south. Sagamook is separated from the next
ridge, Mount Head, by a valley not over 300 feet deep, while a some-
what deeper valley lies between Head and Mount Carleton The
appearance of Head and Carleton from Sagamook is shown by Fig 11
Mount Carleton is over 100 feet higher than Sagamook, and is Lily
recognized by its bold, bare, saw-like top. Still farther to the south
ward one can see the summit of Mount Winslow, not a part of this
plateau (P.g. 12). On the westward of the valley of Bald Mountain

-tsrooK runs a fine rancro f^f h;uc qn.,*u x t. . .

Q,. !.. ...!,,, soutn-wusL. ic oegms at Nictor Lake

246

BULLETIN OF THE NATUBAL llISTORy 80CIETV,

With Jranquelin; next k Bailey, and then follows a series of six or more
crests which are to be named for the geologists who have investigated
he structure of the province, and which, therefore, may well be called
th Geolog^ts Bange. But on these matters future communications
Will be made to the Society.

The impression of this plateau which one gains by viewing it
from either Nictor or Nepisiguit lakes is extremely misleading. Thus

Fig. il.

ward overMn Hfadand Car/eti

on

the summit of Mount Carleton is not visible at all from Nictor Lake
nor from the Upper Nepisiguit Lake, though it is from the Lower
Nepis.guit Lakes. Again, the summit of Sagamook ^s ^ot visible
from the Upper Nepisiguit Lake, but only from the lower lakes
It IS only by visiting the summits of these mountains and comparinc^
the different views thus obtained, that one can gain a correct Lo^t
edge of their relationships.

A great charm of these mountains is the view from their summits.
Ihat from Sagamook is particularly grand. From the naked bosses

^_X>5:h^

Sa^amooA and Head /nm Carleton
Fig. 12.

'Ml a Bald anJTen-
erifie /ri/n Saqanxtek.

at the west end one can look away over the rolling Silurian plateau to
the mountains of Quebec and Maine, while from the highest point of
the mountain, a bare place near the eastern end of the ridge, one can
see far off to the north and east, and the fine range of mountains
through which runs the Nepisiguit, and the great mass from which
nses Big Bald on the South Branch. But even these views are sur-

con

KATURit BISTORT AKD Pnv8,o,;RAP„v OF SEW BRONSW.CK. 247

oTetot'hel'™" ""' "".'f' °' *"'""' CuHeton,. for here fro,,,
one spot the ey. may range without hindrance in eve.^ dilution a„,l
there eannot be a grander outlook over a more rugged coun ry a" v
where ,„ th„ province. Everywhere lie the splendid hills wl L ,'-
B -able crest, as ,f the sea, with it, r„lle,-s and breate,. we™ suddenly

by he l.tt e affa,rs of man as by the shadows of the sum,„er clouds
iloat,ng a.x,ve them. They are nea.-ly all foisted and u, b„ „, a
great contrast with most other parts of the p,.„vi„„e. A, o "e s I .'ds
upon the summit of one of these rarely-visited hills on a fair summ A
day, „d looks upon these unspoiled hills and forests, the verv ,■ " ,
0 ndat,o„s of h.s native land, he cannot but feel an exaltation w W h
IS one of the best joys of life.

charm;;,'!"o!:ce'' 'h "'"'' "" '""'"^ ""' ""'^ ''^ ™'"- "■" "'-'
charm „g place ,n the ,„ter,or of New B,-unswick, but as yet enti.elv

unsp„,lod. But the doom of th. summer hotel even now th,-eat , I

chores, and the pulp.,oiIl its forests. But why should not the p op

of New Bru„sw,ck prevent its despoiling, and set aside the lake and

Its shores a, a p,.ov,„cial park, to be kept wild and beautiful for thet

en,,oy,nent forever , It can be sacrificed for a small p,.e,,e„t profit I

aved for a large one in the future. But there is a,K,ther reaso, fo

U,e preserv„t,on of the lake region. In the very near future New

Brunsw,ck must turn her attention to systematic forestry, or else losi

c,t, ens. The fl,.st step towards such fore,stry must be the settin.,
as,de of certa,„ areas to be managed on good principle.,, as a nuci ":
for orestry extension, and for instruction in foreLy managem
^owhere ,„ the prov,„ce in an equally accessible place's therCso fine
a fores as here, o, one which it would be easier to manage on cor,."
pr,ne,ples. Var,ous states of the United States are making .-es a
uons abou the heads of their principal rivc-s for the pu pos of
preserv,ng fo.-est at,d game and water supply, as well as for wild'patk.
Le us be warned ,„ t,me and set aside here a forest and game prese.ve
and w^lclpark for the futu,, instruction and enjoyment'of ou,';:„;ie

248

BULLETIN OF THE NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETV.

30.-PROPOSALS FOR A NOMENCLATURE OK UNNAMEO NeW Brun.VICK

-tlii'Ls AND Mountains.

(Read December 5th, 1899)

able when it i, ,.ec„l,ed that pa 1 Tf'"'' f' "°" '™''*-
eve„ to «„an broo.. and pol a:::f.^\^ Tnrrrr^^

r::n;r:Ztt„f:r"-?'^ '-^ ■■^-™ ^»p'»'n-tr wa-
in,,, hunting lTi^:C, Zl :T ""■°"-" """^ "»° '»'■""•"-■

..a,ne, for the,o ari.! ;'„; ri^tin^l """ '^ ^'■*^" "'' """
inte.., in the. c othe. ':;:;—: r^rXr^'^an?" ""^

^j-s ue so. As the province becomes spf•^^o^l „„ u i.

: o~:rti:::r; ^^ ^^^— "'--"-- - ^:

o( the most trivial, inappropriate and inconvenient sorlo

mountains a convenient, appropriate anr] J ^ ' °"'

-^. sneh a matter i, ^ inU^ o^ .o^'^fderr: tThl'
If now we pass to details, three questions arise- first wh.f V A

How may names, deliberately given be intrnd„no^ • .
eiro^Jati^^Onide.. lumhermen,^an*d .o^ ZT^t C^t

X

1

NATUHAL HISTORY AND PHYSIOGRAPHV OF NKW imUNSWICK. 249

the woods, rnake no use of n^aps, but adopt names only as they hear

he' T.V '"•" "^^"^^"^ '^^- ^^^ «-^-" ^>f descnprive X "s

ir Yets'; ' r^'V" P'-e-namesaHse amon^ uneta u'

people. Yet such people, as I have often observed, have ^reat resnect

for maps, and for their "correct " V . r..' , i " respect

e% the, .„„M a.„p. rCtn^^^o f^Z; ^trt

«d u„„e..u,i„g„ „dor,t tl,eir „a,„es. The „„ie,. „ Ih vi" '"
to our mountam, is increas.Dft and if tl,e new na,„e, a e Tl

.hi T1 ''"'T "''^"'■" ""^ """f'^"^ '»^ guides il In h

b o"L::dr::eadi;7d^"rr' ™ °"' "■"" '- ■'- '"'"«"'

B::ir ;te::r„ r r^r's"^^ "-"^ '^ ^'^ --- -
«..u«ei.i„_r.;\;::\dt^^^^^^

We next consider wl,at shall determine the names to be adooted
3e.£.en .:r .VZitTr^rrX ^^^^^^^^^^^^

rer:e=:„ee?:rsi:r::T

rounds; second, they are dfied thaU^ '^Z'"' r"''^"""""'''''
associations, and hale sonn?: !1 :;e ^TtrZ 'Zar'^7:'

- Of these <,.,ities, hnt the, p„t hZet an taUoT X^ Jntr

250

BULLETIN OP THE NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY.

As to the actual words chosen, they may be drawn from any one of
Heveral classes. First, there are descriptive names ; but these are .ood
only when they describe some striking and easily-recognizable quality
ot the place, and are such as are not likely to be in use or to be
adopted elsewhere. Our mountains, however, are not unlike enousrh
to one another to mal:e many such names available. Then there are
Indian names, especially when these are familiarized into an eas^lv
pronounced form. Unfortunately, however, our Indians appear rarely
to have had native names for mountains, and this, of course, for much
the same reason that their white successors have none. Again namp.
may be drawn from those of persons or events prominent in the early
history of the province. In these we have a great store of pleasing
easily-pronounced, already more or less familiar, words - and as to
their appropriateness, it is surely fitting that the names oi those who
have laid the foundations of the province should be lastingly commem
orated in her eternal foundation hills. Most of our new names wHl
probably be drawn from this source. Of course such names will be
applied, as nearly as possible, to places associated with the person or
event commemorated. It is a fact, too. that more honor would be
done a person by naming for him a smaller mountain in an accessible

ThereT l^f 1 '''"'' '''" ' '''''' °"^ ^" ^ ^^^^ inaccessible
There should be, too, some proportion between the importance of the

place and the prominence of the person commemorated : the greater
hills should be named only for those of provincial prominence while
the smaller may well be devoted to the names of those whose import-
ance is only local. t'^n,

With the convictions here expressed, and following the principles
here recommended. I have ventured to apply „ame! to Lrmore
prominent mountains about Nictor Lake and along the upper Nepisi-

the finest of New Brunswick mountains, and is withal fairly accessible

About Nictor Lake is a particularly fine series of hills, described

and figured m the preceding note (No. 29). The map accompanying

that paper, as well as the one with this, show all new names in italics

Mount Bernardin is named for the Recollet Missionary, who"

about 1621, perished of cold and hunger somewheie in this vicinit^

while on his way from the mouth of the Nepieiguit to the St. John.

Franguehn is for the great French cartographer, who was the first, ii^

Map of

Victor Lake and upper Nepisiquit

NLW BRUNSWICK
Compiled b^j \NTGanovq

..:r \ooi(d m Feler:, Smeij Ofihil/^

Geology. ent I rtQTtd Pre Cambnon
fehites etc exctpt kveit e^i'i oi

ii-'-^f Mount Fron^ac

.S^ ^

lO

"w

' Ounr n -™.- , , ,

fa(«.-

\.-.

'^■'' Mount Enaiid

ipvemfflti sea Icvt/ ■ • ;* a<

ong r(vfr are mi/ts vVS'isJ ''''' ^'^'^i:^''

fhurst ■'-ore ca>/tp-i^ruu/idsS«/^^^^-wv- ■'''■'

; wBuKctin ol the Natural tiisfcry Smtlj »f Nf^.'BTunswKkJi /jj

•n feet.

Hn,M.;TI\ OF TIIK VATtrKAL HISTOKV s.)(

Fk;. 13

The heijrht of Sajramook is -io.'U feet above the sea ; (;urleton is

TrrK VATt'UAI, MISTOUV Su.„.;tv oK NKW I.HUN.SWUK, XVII,, l.S!M».

At^^

^^tlJ

^(^^

J

- . ^

J'

Map of

Nictor Lake and upper Nepisiguit

"^ NCW BRUNSWICK ^

Compiled biy W.FGanon^ *^;, ,

Geoloqy. entire QTfn Pre Combran
felsites etc except west enri ol
NictorIa|<e,whithisS/li.rmn <,hta

fE o^P

Fm;. l.S

'figurfi on lakes and nicwntams
liare feet above mean sea level

i Figures along n^t\ are n?iles \»-»'-"*
aboi/f Bafhurst ■♦■are ca»tp-(j roundsSJ^?^;.. .„.„■■ .w-' '
Names in //o/rcj are new. ^ '^Z ,,. m ♦ — T'TTrT' , ;T io
:>f Bulletin ol the Natural History bocitti; (kmimmi\.lY,Wu\%

s'-,^lf\ Mount Cartiir

5ot ubove the s,,i : Cirleton is 264G feet; Gordon is 15(J9 feet; LaT

our is "iMid feet.

^B

NATURAL niSTORF AND PHYSIOCi A- .V OF XKNN .UNSWICK. 2^1

1086, to place Nictor Lake upon a map. Garden in for '.^ .urvov.^
who, in 1835, was the first to sketch a modern map of , lukr a,i
to apply the name Nictor to it. Berton (lake, not mountain). Ih f..,-
the other surveyor who, in 1837, made the sketch n.ap wh.ch ha.s been
the original of all published maps of the lake even to the present day
Headx^ for a governor of the province who was here in 181!) and
named Mount Teneriffe. Gordon is for another governor, whose
charming book, " Wilderness Journeys," published first in 18(54 gives
the first published description of the lake. It was he who mtmed
Mount Sagamook. liaUey is for the naturalist, Professor in the
University of New Brunswick, who gave us, in 1864, the first scientific
account of the geology and botany of this region. GarhUm, applied
to what IS much tlie highest mountain in this part of the province
and possibly in the entire province, is named for Thomas Carleton'
governor of New Brunswick from its foundation in 1784 until his
death in 1817. Mounts Carleton, Head and Sagamook form a
plateau, which, since its peaks are named for two governors, and by
another, may well be called The. Governors' Plateau. In Nictor I ake
hes a httle island named from its mode of formation. Moraine Maud
South of Carleton lies another high and conspicuous mountain named
^\^nslo^v, in honor of Edward Winslow, who was so closely associated
with the foundation of the Province of New Brunswick, and who is
as yet uncoramemorated in any place-name.

As one stands upon the western end of Sagamook, he can see
running off to the southwest a fine range of very prominent hills, with
several rounded summits. This range begins with Mount Bailey and
terminates near Bald Head, south of the Tobique. Since Bailey is
one of the range, the other summits may well be named for the other
geologists who have worked in this province, Gesner, Mb, HartL
Matthew, Dawson, Ells, Chalmers, and the range may well be called
the Geologists' Range. No maps or figures are here presented, for I
hope soon to give it further study.

We pass next to Nepisiguit waters, of which a map is given
herewith (Fig. 13), and we may well commemorate in its numerous
grand hills those who have been prominent in the history of the rirer
and the region of the North Shore about its mouth. We come first to
-a large lake. It first appears on the excellent map of 1685 by the
Recollet missionary, Jumeau, as L. aucler, and the name is restored.

262

nUI.LKTIM OK TUB NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETT.

Worn no part of this lako can the summitn of Saga.nook or Carleton
»e seen, nor, of course, can the lake l,e seen from their summitH, but
they can be «een with great distinctness from near the summit of
lener.ff.. (F-.gs. 14, 15). Tn addition to those already mentioned, one
sees a low rounded hill, which shows more distinctly from the lower
end of the lake, named for Jmnmn, the lake's first cartographer To

Vlil}^LAJhL^o}[er.^ors Tiateau ^sL^^ar^iJrj^^

Fio. 14.

the northward stands up a splendid very high rounded dome, falling
outside the luuits of the map, but shown in Fig. 15. easily seen from
feagamook and from other directions, which is named Mount ViUebon
in honor of the most prominent of the French governors of wlat is
now Isew Brunswick when it was a part of Acadia.

Below Aucler are three other shallow lakes, from the eastermost of
which an arm, forming another lake, runs to the southward This is

JBernardin

fortage'

l//enr norCAivest fnm near summit of- JTovnt Tene

Fio. 15.

£^

remarkable for its great deposit of diatomaceous earth, described in
an earlier note (No. 17), whence it may be well called Diatom Lake.
feouth of these lakes and parallel with them runs a splendid ridge
known appropriately to the lumbermen as the Green Range It i. I
think, continuous with Mount Winslow, but I am not sure of this.

NATURAL P,8TOKY ANI, ..HY.rooiUPIIV OF NKW BlUrysWICK. 2.')3

South Of it Stands Mount Tennrirte, from which a fair view nutv he
obtained t<. ^h. westwar.l (Ki«s. , ,, ,5, and a particularly ,nnl.
to the easiv,i,d a^'iL/ \(\\ l^v^.... i . "'"««/ pfranu ono

the limits of th. 11 ' *''•' mountains falling outsido

do nl o h > r^ r "'• "''" l"^'"^'^'"''^^ ^li.tinctnnsH, the round

dome of I .^. Hald on the nouth branch of Nepisi,uit. and to the I
of It a pointed mountain with three bare spots near its J^nul '
^tter i. nan.d D..,.rr.. for the man, Ir.S "^ of C :

m 1780 the mterior of New Brunswick far lK,tter than any otl •
cartographer until well into this century. This is I tldnk Z
ta,n shown on the geological map at the fork c ' L s H LX
Nepis.guit (just west of the large N) '' ""^

We begin now to descend the river. As in other rivers of the
province the lumbern.en have a nomenclature of their :::Xt

View to (He LasU^ard from thP.-TJT^^TTJT^^^p^

Fig. 10.

rapid,, rock, points, etc., along the river, and tt,.,. „„™e, (for m„oh
help .ne„n,p,hng which Ian, indebted to Mr. P. J, JJ„r„.,, MPi™ o
Bathursg are g,ve„ on the map. A, to the ,„o„nt,i„,,, the fi t ,^
meet « the sym.netrical hill around which the .iver How wHVh
we„ be ,ed M„.u Co..n,y, in honor of the auf r of ^ ' ntZ
of Norteu, New Brunswick and Gaspe," (,832), i„ which if 2

N:rth:i:f''t,:" ^ "'""^''" ''^"""'' -^--'p"™ »' "^^ -

namld 1/ , T '" ", P''™'"™' symmetrical n.ountain, which i,
Darned Mount Peters, for the surveyor whose accurate man of the
nver, made m 1832, is the basis for all subsequent maps. >om le
forks of the I.,ttle South Branch three fine mountains ly ber.'u
once one of wh.ch was named Felspar Mount by Professor Ba" h
186 .and on the slope of which he describes 1 remarkable him
That to the east of it is named Mount Walker in honor of CommZe
Walker, who was the first English settler at the mouth of the rt^

254

BULLKTIN OF TIIK NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY.

by'cllV't'"" ':, ',"" " ''''" '-''-« -"">l«Hme„t described
by Cooney. 11,6 rounded „,„u„t,un just north of the river here is
na„,ed Mo,.,a nVta,.,,, for the surveyor of Frederioton who in

Zl T: ," "' '""'"'"•^'™ measurements through this region
0, the B„t,sh governn,ent, as .lescribed in a Eound.rv Blue Book for

, i •„ ; ?■ , ™ °" ""^ """"' '"'"'< i» » distinct, though not a
ngb .11 wh.h should be nan,ed Mount 6W«(„n the n, p, by Inist^ke

and atte„,pted to make a settlen.ent there. Lower still, on the north

r"thet:dr' \'P'™f ""^"■■"""■'-' --^^^ —"ain, pron.: t
in the landscape f,om both up and down river (see Figure, 16 18)

.sto,y. Oust west of ,t .s another of similar character. Imt not so
Ug, an.i „,ore deeply stained with red, and this is named fr
Chn„n,a,j, Ins nval. Directly „.u,tl, of LaTour, across the river is a
sple„d,d wooded ridge, as high as or higher than LaTour itself, am at
p™m,„e„t, but of softer and n.ore pleasing character, which is named
Mount Mar.,, for our Provincial heroine, the wife of LaTour

irom Mount LaTour t Portage Brook the hills are high,* but
none stand out d.stinctiy until the brook is reached. Portage Brook
occup,„, eep and broad valley, with splendid hill ranges aLg both
^des, ami these are named the J/.W„„„W.,V Ran.j, and the A^lian,'
Sa,uj to conunemorate two people, prominent in the history of the
North Shore. One of the hills in the Missionaries Range, the pronnn-
ent one as seen from below the brook. i„ the angle betw^een bro'ok nd

bool o„ta,n,ng much n,forn,ation about the lower part of the river.
It y. 1 be well ,n the future to apply the names of other missionaries
to other summ.ts of this range, and likewise to apply the names of

pmnnnent Acadians to the sun ts in the Acadian range

Just below the South Branch, on the south side, are two pro„,in-
ent rounded h.lls (Figure 17) which may be named Mount llaL and
Mount W,„,mou-el for two Micn.ac chiefs mentioned by Cooney.

rl.,.7Tr.; ap',!™' Ukelorrldr' '" 'r "";'"" " '" ""■ ■"'"*«'«■■ -' "••■"• l'll'"'o.8 .ho

•P|.liJd In ui ,C *^ °" " """ '"'■'•"«' ...•"..fl™ .nd ilclges th.. n.me8 an,

NATURAL HISTORY AND PHYSIOGRAPHY OF NEW BRUNSWICK.

255

Lower on the north bank stands out a very prominent mountain
(l^ig. 17), which IS named Mount Membertou in honor of the grand old
Micmac sachem, friend of the French, and one of those who saw
Cartier on the North Shore in 1534. Descending the river one
presently sees a bare reddish summit appearing over a wooded ridge
the first glimpse of Fronsac (Fig. 17), and later there comes into view

urine ?ne3hreC arid ^alion from ^ y/V^

Membertou /rvn^ ih

rransuc/yommirai^ J)£nyS fr7,-m tht ri^er a/>oi^e.

£naiict from Tn-er de/pw

Via. 17.

the symmetrical mountain locally called Bald Mountain (Fi- 17) but
much better to be known as Mount Denys in honor of the first se'ttler
at he mouth of the river, and the author of one of the most important
early works on Acadia, published in Paris in 1G72. North of it lien
Mount Fronsac (Fig. 18), somewhat higher than Denys itself, but
otherwise less distinctive, named for the Sieur de Fronsac. Denys' son
who hved and had a fort at Miramichi. Southwest of Denys there

Cartier /rem Deni/s

Fio. 18.

TTansacfromdtnij:

towers up „ |,are mountain visible from many points (Fi^ 1S\ M,„

New Brunswil j , T ^""gniors who once possessed mud, of
eastwar,! ,s a lower mountain, which shows more prominently from

256

BULLETIN OP THE NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY.

the river below (Fig 17), and this is named Mount Enaud {^ho n^eWed
Enault) for one of the most prominent of the early settlers at the
mouth of the river, mentioned by Ccjoney

Below Indian Falls no more prominent mountains appear. The
country becomes a flat plateau, sloping evenly and gradually eastward.

31.— On Heights determined with Aneroid in 1899.

(Read December 5th, 169'J).

In the course of a canob trip up the Tobique and down the Nepisi-

guit in August last, I made many measurements with a good aneroid.

These were all taken contemporaneously with the readings made at

Fredericton by Dr. Harrison for the meteorological service, and I wish

to express my thanks to him both for adjusting my aneroid and also

for a long series of readings used in computing results. I have since

found that my aneroid tends to read a trifle low, especially on the

greater heights; hence the following figures are to be taken as below,

rather than above, the truth. Those marked with a star "(*) have

never before been measured. The heights are all above mean sea level

at St. John. The position of all of the places, except the last in the

list, may be seen upon the map accompanying Note 30.

Forks of Tobi.iue (or Nictau ). Alean of tM-o measuieinents, .-,76 feet. Wight-

man gives (with an added correction exphiined earlier in Note 2;jr575

feet for four miles below Nictau.
Surface of Nictor Lai<e. Mean of fourteen measnrements, 8.S7 feet. Chalmers

made it 878, and Wiglitman (corrected) 877. Mean of the three, 864
Sagamook for Bald) Mountain. Mean of two measurements, 16.^3 feet above

the lake.^ Chalmers gives Ki.'.O, and Wightman 1719. Mean of the

three, Ib/U above the lake, and 2:,:u above the sea
mount Carleton. By direct measurement 112 feet higher than Sagamook,

and hence 1 /82 aboNe Nictor Lake, an<l 2(i46 above the sea.
Mount Gordon, on Nictor Lake. 7(».^ feet above Nictor Lake, and 1.^69 above

the sea.

*Bank^ot^ Caribou Brook, half way acros.s the Nictor-Nepisiguit Portage, 984

Surface of Nepisiguit Lake. Mean of five measnrements, 1011 feet. Chalmers
give. 996 ; mean of the two, 1.10.3. Mr. Chalmers statement that this is
the highest lake in New Brunswick, was of course made before the'
heights of the lakes on the south branch of Tobique, which are much
higher were measured. By direct measurement I made it 145 feet
above Nictor Lake, /. e. , 864 + 145 = 1009.

\

NATURAL HISTORY AND PHYSIOGRAPHY OP NEW BRUNSWICK. 257

^Mount Teneriffe. By direct measmement, 1105 feet above Nepisicruit Lake
and .once 2108 feet above the sea. Mr. Chalmers is ,n erroAn stating
that th.s,s about as hij,li as Sagamook. Even as seen from Sagamook
it IS much lower.

*Mount LaTom-. By direct measurement, lir,0 feet above the river. As this
falls 160 feet between the lake and Portage Brook, and the fall is con-
siderably greater below than above it, the river is here probably 940 feet
above the sea, and hence LaTour is 2090 feet above the sea

*Mouth of Portage Brook, river level. Mean of five observations^ 843 feet
River at camping place near the " bear house " at foot of Mount Cartier or

Bald Mountain. Mean of four observations, 7ir> feet
Mount Deny.s, or Bald Mountain, above Indian Falls. By direct measure-
ment above the river at the camping place, 117.-, feet. In 1898 I made it
1 1 <0 feet ; mean, 1172. This agrees well with the height of 1183 feet on
the survey map of 1832 by Peters. Mean of these two, 1138, which
added to the river level, gives 1893 feet above the sea. Chalmers, fol!
lowing Ells, gives 1922 ; mean, 1907. There are higher mountains in
the near neighborhood.

Mount Knaud, or Bald Face Mountain, is given on the Peters map as 998 feet
high, that IS, of course, above the river, and hence about 1090 feet above
the sea.

*Lower end Indian Falls. Mean of three measurements, 632 feet.
*Mouth of Nine-mile Brook. Mean of two measurements, 429 feet.