GOLONSAY OSlimatc, Geology, etc Murdoch IVTNeill THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES COLONSAY ITS PLANTS, ETC. COLONSAY ONE OF THE HEBRIDES ITS PLANTS : THEIR LOCAL NAMES AND USES — LEGENDS, RUINS, AND PLACE-NAMES- GAELIC NAMES OF BIRDS, FISHES, ETC. — CLIMATE, GEOLOGICAL FORMATION, ETC. BY MURDOCH MCNEILL EDINBURGH DAVID DOUGLAS 1910 THIS VOLUME IS IRespectfullE S>efcicatefc TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD STRATHCONA AND MOUNT ROYAL, G.C.M.G., G.C.V.O., D.C.L., LL.D., D.L. IN ACKNOWLEDGMENT OP HIS GENEROUS ASSISTANCE, WHICH HAS ENABLED THIS VOLUME TO BE COMPLETED AND PUBLISHED DA PREFACE A COLLECTION of the plants of his native island was begun by the writer in 1903, during a period of convalescence, and was continued as a recreation, from time to time, as occasion offered. In 1908 the idea of making use of the material accumulated and arranging it for publication was conceived, and to put it into effect a final endeavour was made that season to have the plant list of the island as complete as the circumstances would permit. In preparing the little volume for the press, the lack of works of reference was found a serious drawback. The following publications were found most helpful : — Bentham and Hooker's British Flora ; Withering's English Botany ; Cameron's Gaelic Names of Plants ; Hogan's Irish and Scottish Gaelic Names of Herbs, Plants, Trees, etc. ; Gregory's History of the West Highlands ; Oransay and its Monastery, by F. C. E. M'Xeill ; " Colla Ciotach Mac Ghilleasbuig," by Prof. Mackinnon (Celtic Monthly, Sept. 1903-Jan. 1904); Geikie's Scenery of Scotland ; Notes on the Geology of Colon- say and Oransay, by Prof. Geikie; The Two Earth-Movements of Colonsay, by W. B. Wright, B.A., F.G.S. ; Sketch of the Geology of the Inner Hebrides, by Prof. Heddle ; Journals of 719649 vi PREFACE the Scottish Meteorological Society ; Address on the Climate of the British Isles, by A. Watt, M.A., etc. Among the many friends who have given generous aid, special thanks are due to two gentlemen in particular r Mr Arthur Bennett, F.L.S., who has named or verified nearly all the Colonsay plants ; and Professor Mackinnon, of the Celtic Chair, Edinburgh, a native of Colonsay, who kindly read the proof-sheets and corrected the Gaelic names. Others kindly gave help in a variety of ways. Thus Mr E. B. Bailey, who was engaged for several seasons in the Geological Survey of the island, corrected and amplified the chapter on Geology. In determining doubtful species, assistance was received from the authorities at Kew and the following gentlemen : — Kev. W. Moyle Rogers, F.L.S., Bournemouth (Rubi) ; Mr W. Barclay, Perth (Rosa) ; Rev. E. S. Marshall, M.A., F.L.S., Taunton (Euphrasia, Betula, etc.) ; Rev. E. F. Linton, M.A., Salisbury (Mentha, Hieracia, Salix, etc.); Mr Charles T. Druery, F.L.S., Acton (Ferns); the late Rev. W. R. Linton, M.A. (Hieracia) ; Rev. G. R. Bullock Webster, F.L.S. (Chara, Tolypella). For information concerning the plants of the surrounding islands and assistance in other ways, the writer is much indebted to Mr Symers M. Mac Vicar (flora of Tiree, Eigg, Lismore, etc.), Dr Gilmour (list of the Islay plants), Mr P. Ewing, F.L.S. (Glasgow Catalogue of Native and Estab- lished Plants), Dr M'Neill, Medical Officer of the County of Argyll, and others; and to Mr Donald M'Neill, Lower Kilchattan, and the older inhabitants for information on local matters. PREFACE vii The writer trusts that much of the matter contained in the following pages may be regarded as typical of and applicable in many respects to the Western Islands as a whole. He would gladly have entered into greater detail regarding the old-time industries, place-names, topography, traditions, and folk-lore of Colonsay, but the general reader may be of opinion that enough has been said on these matters in a work primarily intended to treat of the flora of the island. M. Mc^. KILORAN, COLONSAY, . December 1909. CONTENTS CHAP. PAGB 1. GENERAL DESCRIPTION .' . . .' . . 3 2. CLIMATE . . ... 45 3. GEOLOGICAL FORMATION . . ' . . . 54 4. WOODS, LOCHS, AND PASTURES . . . .69 THE FLORA ...... 86 INDEX . . 205 COLONSAY ONE OF THE HEBRIDES CHAPTER I GENERAL DESCRIPTION THE islands of Colonsay and Oransay and the neighbouring islands of Islay, Jura, and Scarba, with their islets, constitute the group of the South Inner Hebrides. Colonsay and Oransay were formerly jointly known as Eilean Tarsuinn (or the cross-lying island), so designated, it would seem, from an exaggerated notion of their oblique position with relation to the Sound of Islay. In the Old Statistical Account it is mentioned, but erroneously, that they are named after two saints, Colon and Oran. Colonsay (Gaelic, Colasa) is 9 miles long, and averages 3 in breadth; with Oransay, the length is 12 miles. Situated in lat. 56° 5' N., long. 6° 15' W., the island is distant by sea from Greenock about 110 miles and from Oban about 38. In striking contrast to the opposite island of Jura, whose Paps rise steeply from the Atlantic to a height of 2571 feet, and the more distant Mull, where Ben Mor attains an altitude of 3169 feet, Colonsay is low-lying; Carnan Eoin, its highest hill, not exceeding 470 feet above sea-level. The channel that separates it from the nearest islands varies in breadth from 8 to 20 miles, widening from south 4 COLONSAY to north. The depth of the channel generally is less than 20 fathoms, but north of the island the sea deepens con- siderably with an irregular bottom. Notwithstanding the low elevation, in clear weather distant views of the other islands and of the mainland can be obtained. Northward, beyond the isles of lona, Tiree, and Coll, the outline of what is thought to be the peak of Ben Heavel (1260 feet) in Barra, 70 miles away, has been observed. The hills of Donegal in Ireland to the south-west, and Goatfell in Arran, 44 miles off, are more frequently seen. In winter the snow-capped Ben Cruachan and other Argyllshire hills, and even Ben Nevis, 60 miles distant, are familiar objects on the horizon in the north-east. On the western side the wide sweep of the Atlantic is broken only by the lonely Du Hirteach lighthouse (15 miles off) and a few barren rocks ; the Skerryvore light flashing into view across the intervening 37 miles of sea only when the sky is very clear. For several hours during low water the smaller island of Uransay is connected with the southern end of Colonsay by a sandy, islet-dotted strand. Oransay (Gaelic, Orasa) is derived from the Norse (Orjiris-ey = ebb-tide island). The name is common in the West, there being some twenty of them between the western shores and islands. Oransay is about 2000 acres in extent, and hilly on the north ; its highest hill, Beinn Orasa, being 308 feet above sea-level. The southern portion is low-lying, with sand-dunes over- grown with Sea Maram, Sea Sedge, and other plants and mosses, which assist in binding the sand. With the excep- tion of some shrubby Willows and Elders, the island is treeless. After his departure from Ireland in 563, St Columba is said to have landed at Oransay, but there is no historical record confirming this tradition. Port-na-h-Iubhraich (Port of the Barge), at lochdar-na-Garbhaird, on the west side of GENERAL DESCRIPTION 5 the Strand, has been suggested as his probable landing-place. According to local tradition, this was also the spot where, at a later date, the galley of a viking chief came ashore. It is related of St Columba that before he left Ireland he made a vow never to settle within sight of his native hills, and dis- covering that he could still see them from the Beinn in Oransay, he moved to lona. The earliest mention that we have of Colonsay is in Adamnan's Life of St Columba, which was written about A.D. 693, i.e. about ninety-six years after the saint's death. The name in Adamnan's Latin is Colosus. In this, the oldest book which can be proved to have been written in Scotland, the author relates an interesting story of one Ere Mocudruidi, who had the hardihood to cross, in a small boat, the stormy strip of ocean that separates Colonsay from lona, with the intention of stealing the seals that St Columba was rearing for his own use. He hid his coracle among the sand-hills in Mull, on the opposite side of the sound, and, in concealment, waited for the fall of night for carrying out his dishonest design. St Columba, perceiving his purpose, sent two of the brethren to apprehend him. " Why dost thou often steal the goods of others, transgressing the divine command ? When thou art in need, come, and then thou shalt receive for the asking all that is necessary," said the saint when the culprit was brought before him; and, lest he should return empty, he caused sheep to be killed for him. Fore- seeing in spirit that the death of the thief was at hand, St Columba ordered Baithene in Tiree to send to him to Colonsay, as a last gift, a fat sheep and six pecks of corn. On the day that the presents arrived Mocudruidi died suddenly, and the gifts were used by the mourners at the funeral feast. The Norwegians held the Western Islands for upwards of 400 years, and although it is nearly 650 years since they lost possession, evidences of their occupation are not wanting in 6 COLONSAY Colonsay in place-names — e.g. Poll-na-Cnarradh (Ga. Poll = pool, NOT. Knarr = vessel; i.e. the Pool of the Vessel), Scalasaig (Bay of Small Huts), Cnoc Innibrig (Knoll of Ingibiorg), etc. — in legends, and in interments such as were dug up at Lag-na-Birlinn, Machrins golf-links, and at Traigh- nam-Barc. Bronze coins of Wigmund, Archbishop of York A.D. 837-854, similar to one recently found in a ship-burial in the island of Arran, were discovered in the viking's grave at Lag-na-Birlinn. A sword, rusty and almost mouldered away, was lying near the bones of the warrior who met his death at Traigh-nam-Barc, the local tradition in connec- tion with it being, that a fight took place in the vicinity between natives and the Norsemen who landed from the galley at Port-na-h-Iubhraich. The leader of the latter was killed, and his body encased in the stone coffin, which lay in the ground undisturbed for more than 600 years. Three of the principal hill-forts — Dun Eibhinn, Dun Ghallain, and Dun Cholla — are said to have been named after three sons — Edmund, Gallan, and Coll — of the King of Lochlann. In one of the Norse sagas mention is made of a certain Earl Gilli, Lord of Coin (Colonsay or Coll?), being married in the eleventh century to a Norwegian lady of high rank. The Druid's circle, some rough stones arranged in a circular manner at Buaile Riabhach, recalls a still more remote and mysterious past. Britain, before the Roman invasion, was the stronghold of Druidism, and not until the Celtic people were converted to Christianity did this form of worship entirely disappear from their midst. The cill 's are of Christian origin. They are the remains of chapels which were in use before, some of them after, the Reformation. Sites of about a dozen of these old structures are pointed out in various places in the island. Portions of the walls of two — Temple of the Glen and Kilchattan — are yet standing, and, judging by what is still seen of the walls, they were of GENERAL DESCRIPTION 7 small size. Gravestones show that burials were made within and around the buildings. Of some of these old structures hardly a trace now remains. Time, in its work of destruc- tion, was aided by man, who found the stones (as well as those constructing the duns) useful for various other purposes. The dedications were to Columba (Oransay), Oran, Catan, Ciaran, Coinneach, Maol-Rubha (Cill-a- Rubha), Moire (Mary — two dedications, one in Colonsay and one in Oransay), Bride (Bridget), and Catriona (Catherine). Among the possessions confirmed by David II. in 1344 to John, Lord of the Isles, we find Colonsay included. The island was occupied until the seventeenth century by the M'Duffies or M'Phees. They held it from the M'Donalds, but there is no evidence to show at what period they first came into possession, or indeed that they ever had a written charter of the island. After the forfeiture of the Lordship of the Isles, M'Phee, like M'Donald of Islay, became a tenant of the Crown. M'Phee was clerk or secretary to the council or parliament of the M'Donalds of Islay. Their stronghold was evidently Dun Eibhinn, from which their title of Lord of Dun Eibhinn, engraved on a tombstone in lona, had been derived. A Donald M'Duffie or M'Phee of Colonsay wit- nessed a charter of John, Earl of Ross, in 1463. In 1609 another of the name and designation was present at the assembly of island chiefs in lona presided over by Bishop Knox, when the nine famous statutes of Icolmkill were enacted. Something of the history of the M'Phees may be learned from the inscriptions on their tombstones. Their burial- place was a small chapel built against the south wall of the church in Oransay. It contained some of the sculptured stones now arranged along the north side of the church. One of these is to the memory of Murchardus M'Duffie, who died in 1539. Another was over the tomb of Sir 8 COLONSAY Donald M'Duffie, abbot in Oransay when Dean Monro made his tour of the Western Isles in 1549. Monro wrote that "the He is brucket by ane gentle capitane callit M'Duffyhe, and pertained of auld to clan Donald of Kintyre." The last of the M'Phees of Colonsay, Malcolm M'Phee, was killed at Eilean-nan-Kon, south of Oransay, by Coll Ciotach in February 1623. Earlier in the century he, according to Gregory, had been compelled for a time to hold his lands from Argyll, instead of M 'Don aid of Islay. This circumstance, however, did not prevent him from joining Sir James M'Donald when the latter escaped from Edinburgh Castle in 1615. The rising was unsuccessful, and at its close M'Phee was delivered into the hands of Argyll by Coll Ciotach, one of his associates in the recent revolt. After being detained for some time as a prisoner in Edinburgh, M'Phee was allowed to return to Colonsay. Places of concealment in various parts of the island, named after him (leab' fhalaich Mhic-a-Phl), indicate that he had been hunted about from place to place for some time before his death. He was finally followed to the south-western extremity of Eilean-nan-R6n, an-t-Eilean-Iarach, but would have still remained undiscovered had not his whereabouts been made known to his pursuers in a curious manner. Coll and his men were returning to Oransay after a fruitless search when the cry of a gull hovering over a particular spot attracted their attention, and on reaching the place they found M'Phee crouching on a very narrow ledge of rock at the edge of the sea. "Fabhar, a Thamhais," pleaded the fugitive. " Fabhar no fabhar," answered Tamhas Mac 'Hie Mhoirche, the person who first saw him, "is beag fabhair a gheibhteadh o t' fheusaig ruaidh mu'n am so 'n deV' In June 1623 Coll and his son Gilleasbuig, with four followers, were summoned to Edinburgh on the charge of murdering Malcolm M'Phee of Colonsay, Donald (Og) M'Phee, Dugald GENERAL DESCRIPTION 9 M'Phee, John M'Quarrie, and Ivor Ban (the Fair), the com- plainants being Mary M'Donald (M'Phee's widow), Donald, a son, Catherine, Annie, and Flora, daughters, besides relatives of the other victims. Although the history of the island is often veiled in obscurity, we can gather from various sources that its owner- ship during the latter half of the sixteenth century and the early part of the seventeenth was a source of contention among the M'Phees, M'Donalds, M 'Leans, and Campbells. After the forfeiture of the Lordship of the Isles in 1493, the Isles, instead of following one leader, were divided among a number of chiefs who frequently opposed one another. In their quarrels over the ownership of certain parts of Islay, M'Lean of Duart and M'Donald of Islay were fighting for close on half a century, 1550-1600. Local traditions of raids and clan fights are often associated with this period. The battle of Traigh Ghruineart in the north of Islay, in 1598, brought the long tribal warfare between the M 'Leans and M'Donalds to a close. Before the fight began, Dubh- sith Beag, a native of Jura, asked Lachlan Mor, chief of the M'Leans, for "a day's work." Owing to his diminutive size, M'Lean refused to take him into his ranks. Nothing daunted, Dubh-sith went to the opposite party. M'Donald gave him "a man's place." "I will see to Lachlan Mor; you dispose of the rest," exclaimed the dwarf, who forthwith betook himself to the shelter of some neighbouring scrub. In the heat of the fight, Lachlan Mor bent down to arrange his armour. Dubh-sith, who was an expert bowman, seeing part of M'Lean's person unprotected by his coat of mail while he was in this position, shot him with an arrow. Besides their chief, nearly 300 of the M'Leans fell on that day. The M'Donalds' loss was not so great, but their chief, Sir James M'Donald, Lachlan Mor's nephew, was wounded. The person whose doings during this stormy period most 10 COLONSAY vividly impressed the imagination of succeeding generations of islanders was Colla Ciotach (Mac Gilleasbuig) M'Donald. Although we do not know the date of his arrival in Colonsay, he was long connected with the island. According to local tradition, he came from Ireland. The date of his birth was about 1570. His grandfather, Coll, was brother to James M 'Donald of Dun Naomhaig, and of the Glens in Ireland, the first Earl of Antrim being a cousin. It is said that Coll was twice married, and local tradition hands down an incident in connection with the burial of one of his wives. M'Donald of Keppoch had been married to a woman much younger than himself. For a slighting retort which she made when he was in a playful mood, " Se sin miolaran an t-seana choin ris a chuilein," he sent her away, and she after- wards lived with Coll in Colonsay as his wife. M'Donald, later on, found his way to the island. Coll, on hearing of his arrival, went to apprise his wife, who had been but recently confined. Wishing to find out if she still had any regard for her former husband, he told her that M'Donald had been drowned off the Point of Ardnamurchan. On hearing this, she turned away her face and expired. A dispute subse- quently arose between Coll and Keppoch as to where the body should be taken for burial, Kilchattan or Oransay; and to settle the matter they resorted to a duel of spears at the western entrance of the mansion-house, afterwards known as Bealach an t-Sleagh (Gateway of the Spear). Two of Coll Ciotach's sons, Alastair and Angus, are referred to in local tradition ; but not the third, Gilleasbuig. Alastair, Montrose's celebrated general, was born in the Abbey barn (Sabhall Ban), Kiloran, used as the family residence after the old Abbey had fallen into a dilapidated condition. It was an indication of the warlike career before him, that the swords jumped out of their scabbards and the muskets fired of their own accord on the night of his birth. His nurse, who possessed second sight, predicted that the child would GENERAL DESCRIPTION 11 become a great warrior, valiant and famous, and that victory would be his until the day that he planted his banner upon Gocaru-go. As possessing the mightiest arm in Ireland "a dh' aindeoin c6 theireadh e," he, in 1644, was chosen leader of the Earl of Antrim's troops in support of Charles I. Alastair's successes with Montrose are a matter of history. One fine summer morning, while on the march through Argyll's country to chastise the Campbells, he halted for the morning meal. He asked the name of the green knoll over which his banner had been raised. " Gocam-g6 " was the reply. Alastair remembered his nurse's warning, and the heart of the warrior who never yet turned his face from the foe (nor even scrupled to cut the head off an old friend if he happened to oppose his party) now became that of a child. After planting garrisons in Dunaverty and Dun Naomhaig, Alastair crossed over to Ireland, where soon afterwards he fell in battle. Coll Ciotach took a leading part with Sir James M'Donald against the Campbells in 1615. He afterwards returned, unmolested, to Colonsay. "While M'Phee occupied his stronghold of Dun Eibhinn, Coll resided in Kiloran. A feud for supremacy was carried on between these two hardy chiefs for the next six or seven years, until the murder of M'Phee. For many years after this event, Coll, with his family, lived on the island, and there is nothing in tradition to show that he was disliked by the people. The Campbells came down in force in 1639, and carried off everything that they could lay hands upon. From this date Coil's connection with the island became severed. He, along with his sons Gilleasbuig and Angus, is said to have supported Alastair at Inverlochy. He was afterwards treacherously entrapped by General Leslie outside the castle of Dun Naomhaig, and con- fined in Dunstaffnage. The old man was hung from his own galley mast over a rocky gully behind the castle. After Coll Ciotach had been cleared out in 1639, Colonsay 12 COLONSAY apparently became a possession of the Campbells. In 1700 the island was sold by the Earl of Argyll to Donald M'Neill, the latter's estate of Crerar in South Knapdale being part of the purchase price. For the next 200 years Colonsay and Oransay remained in the possession of the M'Neills, many of whom, during that period, attained to distinction both in military and civil life. At the death of Major-General Sir John M'Neill, V.C., K.C.M.G., in 1904, the estate passed, by purchase, into the hands of the present proprietor, Lord Strathcona and Mount Royal, G.C.M.G., High Commissioner for Canada. Most of the M'Neills now in Colonsay are descended from a person who, at an early date, migrated from the island of Barra. He, with his family and chattels, crossed the sea in an open boat. During the voyage his wife gave birth to a child, and to protect the mother and infant from the weather M'Neill slaughtered a cow and placed them in the warm carcase. The woman, a M'Phee, subsequently nursed one of the M'Phees of Colonsay, and by the turn of events we may assume that this was primarily the object of the migra- tion. The child that was born in the boat was afterwards known as Iain a' Chuain (John of the Ocean), a designation that continued to be applied to succeeding generations of his descendants. M'Phee gave M'Neill a house at Baile Mhaide, some distance from the family residence. When M'Phee's cock happened to crow it was answered, after the manner of cocks, by M'Neill's. This assumption of independence, even by a fowl, so near her dwelling annoyed M'Phee's wife. To save further friction, the laird offered M'Neill his choice of any other place in the island as a site for a new habitation. M'Neill selected the place now known as Aird-an-Duin, in Machrins, and there built his house, which continued to be occupied by many generations of his descendants. The badge of the M'Neills, white dryas (Machall Monaidh), does not grow in Colonsay, but it is found in some of the more GENERAL DESCRIPTION 13 mountainous northern islands. The local badge is Channelled Wrack (Feamainn Chireagach). Although the monastery at Oransay is believed to have been founded originally by St Columba, the present build- ings date from a much later period. St Columba's buildings were of clay and wattle, but even had they been constructed of more lasting material, it is certain that they would have been destroyed in the ninth and tenth centuries by the Vikings and the Danes. These hardy sea-rovers made their first descent on lona in 795, and for the next 200 years our shores were subject to their invasions, often sudden and disastrous. The good John of Isla, Lord of the Isles, is credited with the foundation, about 1350, of the present priory at Oransay. It belonged to the Augustine order, and canons were brought from Holyrood. While the Lords of the Isles were in power, Oransay, it may be assumed, was the centre of a nourishing community. Foundations have been traced which extended over a much larger area than the buildings now occupy. Along both sides of the road leading from the priory to the strand the ruins of a number of circular enclosures, each about 18 feet in diameter, are to be seen. Others were probably cleared away when the road was made. Those still existing are situated well within view of the church, and it is supposed that these structures had been used for stacking the seed- grain of persons living in Colonsay, who carried it across the strand for the blessing of the Church, and also for the more practical reason of having it preserved until seedtime from the depredations of freebooters. Oransay having the right of sanctuary was, so far, free from such visits. A number of sculptured stones, some exhibiting very fine workmanship, are now arranged along one side of the chapel at Oransay. Formerly they lay on the floor, over the graves of persons of note, but for preservation they were removed to their present positions. One of the stones, on which is 14 COLONSAY carved in relief the figure of a knight in armour, is supposed to have been to the memory of Sir Alexander M'Donald of Loch Alsh, who was murdered in the prior's house in 1498 by M'lan of Ardnamurchan. The cloisters, which were described by Pennant, have been partially restored. Of the many crosses which once adorned the precincts of the priory, one fine specimen is still standing. Hewn from a single stone, it is fully 1 2 feet in height, and elaborately carved. It is believed to have been erected to the memory of Colin, a prior who died in 1510. Another cross (M'Duffie's Cross) had been fixed in a cairn of stones on the way to the landing- place. It is said that the bodies of the heads of the M'Duffie family were rested for some moments on this cross as they were taken to the chapel for burial. The lodhlann-mhor (large corn-yard) is a green, flat-topped mound to the south of the priory. From excavations made, it is believed that this was a circular enclosure formerly used for stacking grain, and that the shifting sand gradually filled it up and gave it its present striking outline. In the course of excavations carried on in various parts of Oransay, finds of antiquarian interest were obtained. Various ornamental articles — bronze brooches and ring, beads, etc. — were found in a grave at Carnan-a-Bharraich (Barra-man's Cairn). The remains of animals, shellfish, etc., found in an ancient kitchen-midden at Caisteal-nan-Gillean, and enumerated by Mr Symington Grieve in his treatise on the Great Auk (pp. 54, 55), indicate what the bill of fare of our ancestors at different periods consisted of. Bones of the Eed Deer (Fiadh), Wild Boar (Fiadh Thorc ; Cullach), Marten (Taghan), Eat, Seal, and Otter1 (Beist-Dubh; Dobhran), 1 The Otter, at one time common, but absent from the island for close on half a century, has recently been seen in the vicinity of its old haunts at Port-na-Cuilce. Places in various parts of the island — Rubha-an-Dobhrain, Glaic an Taghain, Dunan-a-Chullaich, etc. — are named after animals some of which have become extinct. GENERAL DESCRIPTION 15 and those of various kinds of birds (including the Great Auk, an extinct species) and fishes, Avere identified. The Kabbit, though now plentiful in the island, is not indigenous, and is consequently not included as such in Mr Grieve's list. It is said that rabbits were first introduced from Barra in the eighteenth century, and that holes were dug for them in the sand-hills at Baile-Mhaide. The shellfish mentioned by Mr Grieve include the Oyster. Limpet- hammers, barbed bone spear-heads, lap-stones, and other articles were also found during excavations. Other shell deposits are to be seen at Cnoc Sligeach, Cnoc Riabhach, etc. Two places of interest not previously referred to in connection with Oransay are Cill-a-Mhoire, the site of an old chapel, and Dun Domhnuill, a conspicuously situated hill-fort with the ruins of rather extensive fortifications on the top. Surrounding Oransay are a number of smaller islets and exposed reefs, congenial homes of the Cormorant (Sgarbh), the Eider Duck (Lacha Mhor), and many other sea-birds. In the winter time the scene is enlivened by the arrival of flocks of the Barnacle Goose (Cathan), Grey Lag Goose (Geadh Glas), Pintail Duck (Piobaire), and other visitors which are driven south from Northern Europe by the severity of winter. Seals of two kinds are numerous ; the large Grey Seal (Tabeist) preferring the solitude of the outer reefs, while the Common Seal (Ron) is more frequently seen in the bays and channels nearer shore. Lying high and dry, beyond the reach of the tide, the young of the Grey Seal are to be seen on the rocky islets in late autumn. They are generally creamy white in colour, solitary, and lying motionless on the rocks, but showing signs of anger when approached. Helpless little creatures, too fat and buoyant for diving, they put their heads, in fancied security, under the water in times of danger. While they are still young their mothers are said to shift their 16 COLONSAY position at every spring tide. The Common Seal has its young in spring and early summer. Approached by steamer from the east it has been said that "Colonsay has a barren, uninviting appearance, the shores being rocky and often precipitous, and the prospect inland being closed by bare, rugged hills. But the interior is extremely fertile, showing wide stretches of pasture-land and good agricultural farms." l The harbour is in the eastern outlet of the more southern and lesser of two valleys containing the bulk of the arable land, which cross the island from side to side. In a prominent position on Cnoc-ua- Faire, overlooking the harbour, stands a granite obelisk erected by the inhabitants to the memory of Lord Colonsay, a former proprietor of the island and a well-known lawyer of the Victorian era. He was Lord Justice General of Scotland from 1851 to 1873, when he was created Baron and made first Lord of Appeal from Scotland. Westward from the harbour lie the farms of Scalasaig and Machrins ; the latter extending to the western shore, and including within its borders a well-situated golf-course. The mansion- house, policies, and home-farm, and the crofting district of Kilchattan occupy the greater portion of the northern valley. In depressions among the hills in the north- east and south of the island are other farms and crofting townships. A survey from a few points of vantage will discover that the two valleys just referred to are closed in by three main tracts of hills : one in the north, one in the centre, and another in the south. The arable land is thus sheltered from cold northerly winds, an important consideration from an agri- 1 " Notes on the Geology of Colonsay and Oronsay," by James Geikie, LL.D., F.R.S., F.R.S.E., etc., of H.M. Geological Survey (Trans- actions of the Geological Society of Glasgow, vol. vi. partii., 1878-79, 1879-80). GENERAL DESCRIPTION 17 cultural point of view. The hills decrease in elevation from north to south. They usually present their escarpments or steep faces to the north, falling with a gentler depression in the opposite direction. This formation is best seen north of Kilchattan and Kiloran, where the hills rise in perpendicular precipices from the sea, and gradually, though somewhat irregularly, slope southwards to Loch Fada. They rise again more or less abruptly from Loch Fada, falling with an easier gradient in the direction of Scalasaig and Machrins. These alternating ridges and valleys which cross the island from side to side are, to the popular mind, suggestive of a series of violent subterranean upheavals rather than the slower work of denudation. Concurrently with an irregularity that appears in the rock structure in the north-east of the island, a series of ridges from Carnan Eoin to Beinn-na-Fitheach runs north and south at right angles to the main tracts of hills, effectively closing in the eastern gap of the main valley and sheltering Kiloran from withering easterly winds. Owing to the general conformation of the hills, cattle — for the rearing of which the island has long been famous — are able to find shelter from every wind that blows. The largest sheets of fresh water are Lochs Fada and Sgoltaire ; the former situated near the centre of the island, and the latter in the northern end. Marshy and reed-over- grown areas along their margins provide seclusion for water-fowl such as the Mallard or Wild Duck (Lacha Riabhach), Coot (Bolachdan), and Teal (Crann Lach). Winter visitors include the Widgeon (Lochlannach) and very occasional flocks of the Wild Swan (Eala Fhiadhaich). Numbers of Snipe (Gudabochd), and less commonly the Jack Snipe, inhabit the marshes. The Lapwing (Sadharcan) breeds plentifully in the peat-bogs on the north side of Loch Fada; and the Meadow Pipit or Titlark (Reabhag), in whose nest the egg of the Cuckoo (Cuthag) has been 2 18 COLONSAY found, the Skylark (Uiseag), and the Land Rail or Corn Crake (Tarritrean) in the adjacent meadows. The idea that the Corn Crake passes the coldest of the months in holes in dry banks still survives. In winter the whistle of the Golden Plover (Feadag) is heard in the surrounding fields and commons. On the north-western side of the island the hills overhang the sea for some 3 miles, from Kiloran Bay to the Inbhear in Kilchattan, in rugged, precipitous cliffs, rising here and there in terraces, one above another, and interrupted at intervals by chaotic accumulations of broken rocks, and by deep and gloomy aoineadh's and slochd's. Most of this coast is rock-bound, and inaccessible from the sea to all except the daring and skilful lobster-fisher, who, to be successful in the pursuit of his precarious calling, must know every treacherous reef and every creek along the dangerous shore. North- west of Kiloran Bay there are good examples of raised beaches, platform-like in formation, and now forming the arable land of the little crofts of Port-an-Tigh-mh6ir. Judging from the antiquarian remains, this now secluded part of the island had, in former times, been a settlement of some importance. Ruins of fortifications and buildings curiously circular in outline are to be seen on the headland of Cailleach Uragaig and at Dun Tealtaig. Cill-a-Rubha is the site of an old church and graveyard. A corn-mill or muileann-dubh, driven by the overflow water from Loch Sgoltaire, is said to have been at one time situated below Bealach-a-Mhuilinn. The only indication now re- maining of the existence of this structure is a fragment of a small millstone. Westward, past Aoineadh-nam-Ba and the high precipice of Geodha-gorm, is Aoineadh-nam-Muc, said in former times to have been assigned by crofters as summer quarters for their pigs to prevent them from roaming at large and damag- GENERAL DESCRIPTION 19 ing the crops. Lamaluin (Lambs' Holm), with its beautifully green verdured headland, its shingly beaches, and Piper's Cave, is a little farther on. Dreis-nic-Ceothain is named after a young woman who had the hardihood to walk across that dangerous ledge. In the cliffs around Aoineadh-nam- Muc, Lamalum, and other parts, great numbers of sea- fowl — Gulls of various kinds (Sgaireag = Kittiwake?, mostly) Cormorants, Guillemots (Eun Dubh a Sgadain), Razor- bills, etc. — lay their eggs on the ledges. When they are disturbed from their nests the shrill cries from thousands of throats, the howling of the wind over the edges of the cliffs, and the dashing of the waves beneath, create a discordance not readily forgotten. Binnean Eiabhach, the highest sheer cliff (about 350 feet) in the island, is annually taken possession of by the Peregrine (Seobhag) for rearing its young ; and as each spring comes round a pair of Eavens (Fitheach), in choosing a site for their nest, make a leisurely survey of the most inaccessible spots in the neighbourhood. The sombre aspect of these northerly exposed and usually sunless cliffs is relieved from early summer onwards by an abundance of wild-flowers and ferns, which find root-space in the many interstices and on ledges in these broken and fast disintegrating rocks. Colonies of yellow-flowered Rose- root, glaucous green-foliaged Campion, rosy-coloured Thrift, daisy-like Matricary, together with the greenery of the Sea Spleenwort and many other plants and ferns, make a com- bination of pleasing colours that favourably contrasts with their rugged surroundings. Here also the Scottish Lovage and the rarer Spergularia rupestris are safe from the maraud- ing hands of the collector. Many other plants not usually characterised as sea-rock plants, and apparently happy in their novel surroundings on ledges and in crevices, lend a charm to the scene with their flowers of various hues. Among those noted were Bird's- foot Trefoil, Blue Scabious, 20 COLONSAY Honeysuckle, Stonecrop, Bramble, Lady Fern, Soft Meadow, Cock's-foot, and other grasses. Kiloran Bay, with its much-admired stretch of yellow sand about a mile in width, is formed by a deep indenta- tion in the northern coast-line. This neighbourhood, apart from its own peculiar attractions, is interesting botanically. A bed of sandy limestone, which, judging by the ruins of an old kiln near Craobh-na-Sgeachag, had at one time been burned by the inhabitants for making lime, accounts for the presence of certain calcicole or lime-loving plants. Hartstongue Fern is common in the gullies below Uragaig. Plants more or less confined to the neighbourhood are the curious little Moonwort Fern, Knotted Figwort, Sea Holly, and the Red Broomrape, which is parasitic on the roots of the Wild Thyme. Natural sea-caves, haunts of the Rock Dove (Caiman Creige) and other birds, penetrate into the rocks on both sides of Kiloran Bay for considerable distances. A number of fugitives are said to have been formerly suffocated by their enemies in the New Cave below Uragaig. Heaps of broken rocks and debris partly block the mouth of the cave. Inside there are a well and a smooth stone : the stone is said to have been used in former times by frequenters for sharpening their swords. Slochd-dubh-Mhic-a-Phi is a natural tunnel in the rocks north of the New Cave, and the following traditional story in connection with it has been handed down for generations. A clansman of the Laird of Lochbuie who visited Colonsay was gleaning after the reapers in the Glen of Ardskenish ; and Macphee, the chief of the island, who was under a geas or taboo not to let pass a sword-stroke, coming round to see the shearers, when passing the Mull man cut off his hand. On finding this out, the M 'Leans came over to avenge the deed. When he heard of their arrival, Macphee, accom- panied by his servant and his famous black dog, left his GENERAL DESCRIPTION 21 residence at Kiloran and escaped to the hills. As they were retiring over Beinn-a-Sgoltaire they heard the wails of Macphee's wife — herself a daughter of Lochbuie — who was being maltreated by the M'Leans because she would not tell them where her husband was hiding. Macphee exclaimed to his servant : " Good were your promises to her the day she gave you these trews," pointing to those that his servant had on, "that you would see no harm come to her." " Unlucky is the time that you remind me of it," answered his henchman ; " if I and the black dog were with you we would defy them; but I will now return, and I shall be slain, and you shall be caught also." Macphee, retiring to the cave in question, which is open at both ends, set his black dog at the one end while he took his stand at the other, and both so well defended their respective posts that it was only by opening a hole through the roof that the M'Leans were able to get at them. This cave ever since has been called Slochd-dubh-Mhic-a-Phi. Bogha-Mhic-a-Bhastair — a rocky islet, almost submerged at high tide, on the western side of Kiloran Bay — is said to have been named after one of Macphee's servants, who landed on it to abstract an arrow with which he had been pierced by his enemies while endeavouring to escape from them by swimming across the bay. He pulled the arrow out of his body, and swam over to Port Easdail; thence walked to Port Olmsa, where he got a boat with which he crossed the channel to Jura, and so escaped. Place-names l and fragments of legendary lore would in- dicate that in former times raiding parties, who, judging by the sequel in some cases, did not always fare well at the hands of the inhabitants, sometimes landed at Kiloran Bay. 1 It has been asserted that the places in Balanahard had formerly been so well named in detail that the people without difficulty could apportion the land out as they sat on Cnoc-a-Chreagain — "yes, even to the breadth of a ' caibe ' handle. " 22 COLONSAY Lag-na-Birlinn, a slight depression on the west side of the blown sands, derived its name from an incident which ended with the burning of M 'Lean's birlinn or barge. The boat must have been dragged through the dunes for about a quarter of a mile before it was set fire to. Rusty boat-rivets were found in the surface sands for many a long day after. Baile-Mhaide, some distance inland, is the reputed scene of an old-time conflict ; and here again the odds seem to have gone against the incomers, for their chief is said to have preferred voluntary death by drowning at Rudha-Buidhe- Mhic-Iomhair, on the east side of Balanahard, some 2 miles distant, rather than fall into the hands of his bloodthirsty pursuers. A well-preserved tomb of a Viking chief, with the skeletons of a man and horse, the metal parts of the horse's accoutrements, sword, balance, and other interesting relics now on view in the Royal Scottish Museum, were unearthed some years ago at Lag-na-Birlinn in the blown sands. The weights of the balance, which are of unknown value, are chased on one side, and are enamelled. Balanahard comprises the north-eastern extremity of the island. Its northern shore-line is broken and precipitous. Off Meall-a-Chuilbh the sea, even in calm weather, is invariably agitated by the strong currents of the Gulf of Corryvreckan ; steamers here encountering more violent seas than those met off the dreaded Mull of Kintyre. In the cliffs around, the Scottish Lovage and the Rose-root grow in profusion. High up in the precipices of Slochd-a-Chroinn the Scurvy Grass is seen in great luxuriance, forming dense green masses. The Erect Bugle, a plant not previously re- corded for this or neighbouring islands, was discovered on the syenite above Slochd-a-Chroinn. Within living memory stone crosses, stone models of the human parts, and other relics of the past were to be seen at the ancient burying-ground of Gill Chatriona. At Cnoc Mhic 'Ille Mhinniche, near by, the crofters formerly followed GENERAL DESCRIPTION 23 a superstitious custom of pouring out, for good luck, an offer- ing of new milk when the cows were turned out to the fold on May Day. It was believed that if the practice was neglected by anyone, some evil would befall the delinquent's best cow. On one occasion, so it is related, an old woman who had accidentally spilt all her milk, gave an offering of whey instead. Appreciating the spirit, the dwellers under- neath struck up on the pipes the tune Fhuair mi deoch mhig o'n mhnaoi laghaich Banarach nam bo, nach d'61 an cobhar. Dun Loisgte, Dun Meadhonach, and Dun Crom, are close together on the north side of the farm ; Dun Leathann and Cnoc-na-Faire,1 where the people in olden times used to watch for the approach of their enemies, lying to the south- east. The Cowrie Beach and Uinneag lorcuil, a natural, window-like opening in one of the rocks, seen best from the sea, are in the extreme north-east. St Columba's, or the Wishing Well, is popularly credited with certain wish- fulfilling potentialities. Part of the ceremony is to leave a gift for the saint. A miscellaneous collection of articles is usually to be seen on the slabs which cover the well. Bird life is varied and abundant among the rugged hills and secluded shores of Balanahard and the east of the island. The Carrion Crow (Feannag Dhubh), Grey or Hooded Crow (Feannag Ghlas), Buzzard (Croman), and Kestrel (Speireag Ghlas) here have their haunts. Among the broken rocks underneath the cliffs the Black Guillemot (Calag) has its nest, and Mergansers (Sioltach) feed in pairs in the bays, building their nests in the heather in rocky places. The Jackdaw (Feannag Bheag), one of the farmer's pests, and 1 There are at least two other hills (watch-hills) bearing the same name, one at Dun Ghaillionn and another at Scalasaig. Their situation in the northern end of the island indicates the direction from which the approach of their enemies was looked for by the natives. 24 COLONSAY the Starling (Druideag) inhabit clefts and fissures underneath Carnan Eoin. Woodcock (Coilleach Coille) nest among the withered bracken in the natural woods, from which also issues the prolonged jarring note of the Nightjar (Cuidheal- Mhor). Its nest, with two nestlings, has been found in the heather. To dry, stony, and louely situations the Wheat- ear (Clachran) and the Stonechat are partial. In strange contrast with its wild surroundings, the little Rock Pipit appears flitting and chirping from rock to rock on the stormy shore. Kiloran, with its pretty policies and plantations of forest trees, offers a pleasing contrast to the characteristic bareness of the surrounding landscape. " The luxuriance of the trees in the neighbourhood of Colonsay House astonishes the stranger, who, while wandering in their glades, might easily fancy himself in some well-wooded part of the Lowlands. Here we find growing vigorously in the open air, all the year round, several plants which on the mainland could not survive the winter." l The garden and grounds, which were laid out in a naturally well-sheltered situation, are now further protected by belts of forest trees. Plants, flowers, fruit, and vegetables usually seen in gardens on the main- land arrive here at a tolerable state of perfection. The site of the present mansion-house adjoins that of an old abbey and churchyard. According to the Old Statistical Account, there was a monastery of Cistercians in the island, their abbey being in Kiloran and their priory in Oransay. At the beginning of last century the ruined walls of the old church, which stood on what is now a grassy slope south- east of the house, were removed to allow of the extension of the pleasure-grounds in that direction. In 1695 it is recorded by Martin that the "principal church" stood in the village of Kiloran. As early as 1549 Monro writes 1 Professor Geikie, in his Notes on the Geology of Colonsay and Oransay. GENERAL DESCRIPTION 25 that the island "hath ane parish kirke." Oran's Well, with its unfailing spring of clear, cool (though possibly now contaminated) water, is situated to the north-east of the spot where the church stood. The abbey barn was utilised for a time as mansion-house, retaining its designation of "An Sabhall Ban." It stood on the ground where the kitchen-garden is now laid out ; and here, according to tradition, Montrose's famous general, Alastair Mac Colla (Alexander MacDonald), son of Colla Ciotach (Kolkitto), was born. Some stones at the base of an old elm are said to have formed part of Coil's drying-kiln. Among the ferns — Lady Fern, Male Fern, Broad Buckler Fern, and others — luxuriating in the woods around Kiloran, a few plants of the Soft Prickly Shield Fern, a rare plant in the West of Scotland, were found. Gooseberries, Raspberries, Currants, etc., carried from gardens, principally by the Blackbird, are springing up everywhere. Besides providing conditions suitable for the growth of particular plants, those sheltered woods are the homes of numerous birds that love a sylvan retreat. In spring and early summer the Song Thrush (Smeorach), Mistle Thrush (An t-Eun Glas), Blackbird (Lon Dubh), Wren (Dre611an), Red- breast (Brudeargan), Titmouse (Cailleach a' Chinn Duibh), and Chaffinch (Breac an t-Sll) contribute to the chorus of song. The Dipper (Gobha Dubh nan Allt), Water Rail (Dre611an Dorann), and Water Hen (Cearc Uisge) frequent the burn and its vicinity. In the trees the Ring Dove (Caiman Coille) often has its nest; the Sparrow Hawk (Speireag Ruadh) and Owl (Cailleach Oidhche) less fre- quently. Sparrows (Gealbhonn), which almost completely disappeared, years ago, from the island, have again become numerous and destructive to growing seeds — an occupation that is being shared within recent years by the Greenfinch. Small colonies of the Rook (Rocais) attempted, unsuccess- fully, on several occasions to settle in the trees in the park. 26 COLONSAY Other birds common in the vicinity and other parts of the island are the Wagtail (Bigein an t-Sneachd), Hedge Accentor, and Yellow Bunting (Buidheag a' Chinn Oir). Less common species include the Bullfinch (Buidhean na Coille), Goldcrest, Tree Creeper, and Warblers. Several other places in the neighbourhood of Kiloran are, on account of the traditions associated with them, worthy of passing notice. Dunan-nan-Nighean is on a low, somewhat isolated hillock to the south-east of Kiloran Bay. The entrance to the structure is in a more or less complete state, and still lintelled. The children of one of the chiefs of the M'Phees are said all to have been born here ; their mother removing hither from the family seat at Kiloran before the advent of each addition to the family. It is related that a number of daughters were born ; and there was a belief that if seven daughters were born in succession the seventh would be in possession of the second sight. Another version is, that in the event of a son being born in the Dun, he would be more fortunate than any of his race. South of Kiloran, near the place where the road crosses between the eastern and middle portions of Loch Fada, a fight is alleged to have taken place between natives and Mull men, known since as Blar-an-Deabhaidh.1 While the battle was in progress Calum Gaol Mac Mhuirich (slender Malcolm M'Vurich), who lay ill of a fever in his house at lodhlann Chorrach on the opposite side of the loch, had his servant on sentry outside keeping him informed of how it fared with the combatants. At last, getting excited, he im- patiently donned his kilt, grasped his sword, and hurried across to join in the fray. He killed the first of the foe that he met ; and to instil a young native, whom he found hiding 1 To assist in repelling the invaders, nineteen unbearded youths of the Bells (Cloinn Mhic 'Ille Mhaoil) alone, descended Bealach na h-airde from Balanahard. Though at one time common, there is none now bearing the name in the island. GENERAL DESCRIPTION 27 in a furze bush, with courage, he caught some of the gushing blood in the hollow of his hand and made the youth drink it. He then gave him a sword, and, inspired by Malcolm's example, the young man fought bravely until the invaders were vanquished. When the fight was finished, a friend, meeting Malcolm, remarked, " I thought you were ill with a fever." " Oh yes," he replied ; " but I got relief." Return- ing homewards from Corra Dhunan, Malcolm noticed a reflection on the face of a rock some distance to the north of the middle loch, and on arriving at the spot found, to his surprise, eight of the foe lying fast asleep. Taking advantage of their helpless state, he killed them one after the other. He then collected their swords, which stood against a rock and caused the reflection which had first attracted his attention, and took his departure. This spot has ever since been known as Glaic-a-Mhoirt (Murder Hollow). Another version states that this incident took place on the following morning. Ruins of hill-forts are not so common about Kiloran as in other parts of the island ; and the remains of the few that are to be seen, such as Dunan-a-Chullaich, above the mill, and Dun Ghaillionn, half-way between Kiloran and Riskbuie, are in positions that are by no means unassailable. Another isolated knoll with traces of buildings on it, but now bearing no local name, situated to the south-west of Kiloran Bay, near Ceann-da-leana, is better adapted for purposes of defence. Dunan Easdail is a small headland on the east side of Kiloran Bay. Parts of the walls of the old church from which the town- ship of Kilchattan has derived its name are still standing, surrounded by the gravestones of the burying-ground, the only one that is now used in the island. The ruins of Cill- a-Mhoire, another of the old chapels, are to be seen east of the Baptist church. Two standing-stones — by some associ- ated with Druidical times — respectively 8 and 10 feet above 28 COLONSAY the ground, and noticed by Pennant on his tour through the island in 1769, are conspicuously seen oil the rising-ground between Loch Fada and Port Mor. Stone cists or coffins have been discovered in the cultivated ground near by. Dun Meadhonach, an isolated knoll to the south, formed the site of an easily defended fort. The neighbourhood of Port Mor is botanically one of the most interesting in the island. The Wild Beet growing on the sea-rocks, Celery-leaved Ranunculus on the sandy shore, Parsley Dropwort at the edge of the brackish shore pools, and the tiny Lesser Duckweed floating on the surface of still waters, are among the local rarities not noticed elsewhere. In the little gullies of the rocky northern shore, amidst accumulations of shelly sand and decom- posing seaweed, the glossy waving Sea Club-rush, the stout Foxsedge, and the slender Juncus Gerardi grow in great luxuriance. While the country's trade overseas was still being carried on by sailing vessels, without lighthouses — of which four are now to be seen from Colonsay — to warn them of the prox- imity of dangerous rocks, hardly a winter passed without one or more wrecks taking place on some part of the island. The circumstances attending these losses are yet vividly re- counted with more or less detail. Persons are living who witnessed the wreck of the barque Clydesdale on Eilean- nam-Ban at Port Mor during a storm in December 1848. Bound for Glasgow from Charleston in South Carolina with a cargo of cotton, the ship had been driven back, with sails torn, from the Mull of Kintyre by contrary south-easterly winds, which, veering westward, finally drove her on to the rocks. Though built a short time previously on the Clyde, of the toughest oak, the ill-fated vessel, under the pressure of the huge seas that dashed over her, soon broke in two. Twelve of the crew were rescued in fishing-boats by th6 natives, and others were saved by clinging to the stern portion of the GENERAL DESCRIPTION 29 vessel, but of the crew of twenty-three six men were drowned. Machrins, to the casual tourist, is perhaps the best-known locality in the island, for lying along the shore between Maol Chlibhe and Druim Sligeach is that stretch of undulat- ing machair land that holds such a fascination for the golfer, Machrins golf-links. Here, while he enjoys his game, the player may view a combination, on a small scale, of sea- coast scenery of bluff headland and receding sandy bay that is difficult to beat. Stretching out to sea and rising abruptly from the Atlantic, Dun Ghallain — named after Gallan, who was reputed to be a son of the King of Lochlann — formed an easily defended site for the fort that once crowned its summit. Flanked on either side by pretty sandy beaches — Traigh an Tobair Fhuair on the north and Port Lobh on the south — this headland was well adapted for defensive purposes. From the ruins of the old fort at the top an extended view is obtained of the rock-bound coast from Kilchattan south beyond Ardskenish. Huge green seas rise over sunken rocks far out from shore, sometimes passing onwards with white and curling crests, sometimes breaking into surging masses of snowy foam. Bogha Samhach, one of the most treacherous of these sunken rocks, lies in the path of boats going north and south ; the seas giving warning of its pres- ence only by breaking occasionally and at unexpected moments. In the cliffs underneath the fort deep, gurgling caverns are grooved and worn by the ceaseless waves. Huge banks of rolled stones and gravel of every grade of fineness have been piled up by the Atlantic rollers at Rudha Aird-alanais and at Garbh Chladach. Inland, the golf-links and the arable land of Machrins form a pretty foreground of undulating sward backed in the distance by rugged and heath-clad hills; farther off, the outline of the misty hills of surrounding islands is seen. 30 COLONSAY Of the four ruined chapels observed by Pennant on his ride from Oransay to Kiloran, Cill-a-Bhride, situated about a quarter of a mile east of Machrins farm-house, was doubtless one, presuming he came from Oransay by the Temple of the Glen, and on to Machrins through Bealach-an-t-Sithein. By this route the Temple of the Glen would be the first to be reached, Cill-a-Bhride the second, Kilchattan the third, and Kiloran the fourth. Had he chosen a more westerly course he would have passed Cill-a-Choinnich and Cill-a-Chiarain, thence going on to Kilchattan and Kiloran. A Tigh Searmonachaidh ("preaching-house") stood at a little distance from the south end of Machrins farm- house, and served as the parish church until the present one was built in 1802, the minister's residence being then -at Ardskenish. It was also called Tigh-na-Suidheachan from the fact that it was fitted with turf benches. The ruins have been long since removed to allow of the land in this part being cultivated. It was somewhere in this vicinity, too, that the earliest-known schools in the island iiad been situated ; and one of the old school door-lintels with a schoolmaster's name carved on it was afterwards used as .a corner-stone in the construction of a barn, now also falling into ruins. Near the old church there was a "branks" (brangas) for the punishment of church offenders, who were usually pilloried during church service. It had been fixed to a large standing-stone, a part of which yet remains. The last person to be exposed to public odium in this way (according to one version) was a woman ; and her brother, hearing of the occurrence, went out of church in indignation and re- leased his sister. He then broke off the " branks " and threw it into Lochan Moine Nic Coiseam, "where it remains to this day." "LathaCath na Sguab air taobh tuath Dhun Ghallain " GENERAL DESCRIPTION 31 was a well-remembered day in the annals of the locality, when a battle was fought on the sands of Traigh an Tobair Fhuair between natives and Norsemen, who, it is surmised, were attempting to land. The combatants on one side, probably the natives, appear to have been armed with sharpened sheaves of birch. That it turned out to be a deadly conflict for one side or the other, notwithstanding the primitive weapons in use, is proved by the number of human bones which have been exposed from time to time on the sands of the bay. There is a belief that if any one disturbs the bones by digging for lug-worms, the favourite bait in flounder-fishing, a storm will arise which will prevent the person from being able to use the bait thus obtained. It is a curious coincidence that the last time bait was dug here a storm came on which half-swamped the boat of those who set the lines. Of the old ruins of Cill-a-Chiarain on the north side of Port Lobh hardly a vestige now remains, the stones having been used in building one of the field walls in the neighbour- hood (garadh na h-airde). Dunan-ga'-Gaoth is at the head of Traigh an Tobair Fhuair. Following the old road southwards from Machrins through Druim Sligeach and down Bealach-na-Traghadh, passing the deep gullies of Turnigil on the right and the grey Carna Glasa on the left, we come in view of the bent-covered dunes, the sandy beaches, and skerry-lined shores of Ardskenish. Cut off from Garvard by the bay of Traigh- nam-Barc on the east, this promontory, projecting for several miles into the Atlantic, forms the south-western extremity of the island. Stretching seaward for miles are reefs and sunken rocks over which the sea, as far as the eye can reach, rises in stormy weather into foaming masses of roaring breakers — an impressive sight of the power of the elements in an angry mood. To the lover of nature these solitudes provide much that 32 COLONSAY is of interest. Seals bask lazily in the sunshine on the exposed reefs till the returning tide floats them off" again. On the calm waters of Traigh-nam-Barc groups of Eiders may be seen congregating some distance from the shore. As these handsome birds often have their nests near the centre of the island and on the verges of high precipices, it is surmised that they carry their young, one by one, to the sea soon after they are hatched. Standing in the shallow waters of the Glen burn at the head of the bay, among less conspicuous members of their kind, are a few of the Great Black-Backed Gull (Dubh-Fhaoileann-Mhor). Shel- drakes (Cra-gheadh), handsomer specimens than their more domesticated brothers of the ornamental pond, anticipating danger, are shifting uneasily about in the vicinity of the sand- banks, in the rabbit-holes in which they often have their nests. and lay a considerable number of eggs. Over mid-channel a pair of visiting Gannets (Amsan) are going through swift, lightning-like evolutions as they dive from a great height for the fish beneath. Nearer shore the elegant Tern (Steirneal) imitates on a lesser scale the performance of the Solan ; not diving, however, but merely picking some delicate morsel off the surface of the sea. Among the wrack-covered boulders at the water's edge a Wild Duck affects the utmost incapacity for rational movement, Avhich, as closer observation discovers, is only a device to draw away attention from a sadly reduced following of three ducklings, the remnant probably of a former lively brood of ten or twelve, a convincing proof of the rapacity of the voracious gulls. " Sandpipers " (Loirean Traghadh) move briskly in search of insects along the sands, and a pair of Oyster-Catchers (Bridein) manifest keen displeasure at the presence of the intruder by a steady volume of shrill and ear-piercing cries. Two dark-plumaged specimens of the Lesser Skua (Fasgadair) are flying over the promontory in search of fresh victims. They chase and frighten the sea-gulls to make them disgorge their half- GENERAL DESCRIPTION 33 digested food, on which they, the "Gull-Teasers," subsist. Farther out to sea the Great Northern Diver (Bunabhua- chaille) disappears, Avhen feeding, for several minutes at a time under the water. As we advance on our way along the shore an occasional Heron (Gorra-Ghriodhach), Curlew (Crotach), and wary Redshank (Coileach Traghadh) rise with startled cry from sequestered hollows. The Lesser Black- Backed Gull (Dubh-Fhaoileann), Herring Gull (Faoileann Mhor), Black-Headed Gull (Aspag1?), Common Gull (Faoileann Bheag), etc., are wheeling, with measured beat, along the shore, while various kinds of divers fish in the outer channels. Cormorants are particularly abundant, and it was formerly believed that they assumed a new stage of existence at the termination of every seven years : Seachd bliadhna 'na sgarbh, Seachd bliadhna 'na learg, Seachd bliadhna 'na bhal-ar-bodhan, Gu sith-siorruidh 'na bhunabhuachaille. Which may be translated thus : Seven years a sgarbh (Shag or Green Cormorant), Seven years a learg (young Cormorant ?), Seven years a bal-ar-bodhan (Black Cormorant), For ever and ever a bunabhuachaille (Diver). The Glen is a grassy flat closed in on the south-east side by the Garvard Hills, which rise abruptly over it in precipitous rocks. The soil — raised-beach deposits — is of a shelly, sandy nature, and produces wild flowers in abundance. A slow- flowing stream — Abhainn-a-Ghlinne — running parallel with the base of the rocks is the home of the Water Ranunculus, the Least Marsh wort, and other aquatic plants. The elegant fern- like foliage of the Meadow-rue appears here and there from clefts in the rocks, and masses of the reddish-purple Hemp Agrimony and pink-tinged Valerian grow on the 3 34 COLONSAY banks of the stream. The delicate white-flowered Grass of Parnassus is seen in profusion in moist places. Orchids in a variety of colours, blue Gentian, pink Centaury, orange Stork's-bill, and other free-flowering plants peculiar to such situations delight the senses with richness of colouring and sweetness of fragrance. Garvard occupies the central part of the southern end of the island. The outlook among the islets of the strand is an ever-changing scene : at low tide, when the water recedes, wide tracts of shell-strewn sand are left exposed ; at high tide, a land-encircled islet-studded sea, with the hills of Oransay in the background, lies before us. Memorials connected in traditional lore with interesting events in days gone by are not rare in this locality. Situated close to the road, about half a mile from the strand, are the partially standing Avails of the Temple of the Glen, silent reminders of old ways that vanished together with the sway of the Romish Church at the advent of the Reformation. Local tradition associates the Temple of the Glen with a visit of King Robert the Bruce on the eve of his return to the main- land to reassert his right to the Scottish crown after his prolonged retreat in Rathlin; and there is nothing im- probable in the supposition that this vigorous monarch visited Colonsay and other islands, either on pilgrimage, or in the hope of winning over their hardy chiefs to his patriotic but desperate cause. In Sir Walter Scott's poetical narrative of the battle of Bannockburn in the Lord of the Isles Bruce is supported by a contingent of island chiefs under the leadership of the Lord of the Isles, and among these the Lord of Colonsay bears no inconspicuous part : — Brave Torquil from Dunvegan high, Lord of the misty hills of Skye, Mac-Niel, wild Bara's ancient thane, Duart, of bold Clan Gillian's strain, GENERAL DESCRIPTION 35 Fergus, of Canna's castled bay, Mac-Duffith, Lord of Colonsay, Soon as they saw the broadswords glance With ready weapons rose at ouce. The shores of Mull on the eastward lay, And Ulva dark and Colonsay, And all the group of islets gay That guard famed Staffa round. Merrily, merrily, goes the bark, Before the gale she bounds ; They left Loch-Tua on their lee, And they waken 'd the men of the wild Tiree, And the Chief of the sandy Coll. Lochbuie's fierce and warlike Lord Their signal saw, and grasped his sword, And verdant Hay call'd her host, And the clans of Jura's rugged coast, And louely Colonsay. Yet still on Colonsay's fierce lord, Who press'd the chase with gory sword, He (De Argentine) rode with spear in rest, And through his bloody tartans bored, And through his gallant breast. Nail'd to the earth, the mountaineer Yet writhed him up against the spear, And swung his broadsword round ! Stirrup, steel-boot, and cuish gave way, Beneath that blow's tremendous sway, The blood gush'd from the wound ; And the grim Lord of Colonsay Hath turn'd him on the ground, And laugh'd in death-pang, that his blade The mortal thrust so well repaid. Funeral parties on their way to Oransay halted at the Temple of the Glen and there awaited the ebb of the tide before crossing. Half-way across the strand fragments of lime-built stone-work show the foundation of the sanctuary cross (Crois-an-Tearmaid) which marked the boundary of 36 COLONSAY the holy ground of Oransay. The criminal who got here before he was overtaken by his pursuers, and after- wards remained a year and a day in Oransay, was safe. Three dunans or small forts — Dunan-na-Fidean, Dunan lochdar-na-Garbhaird, and Dunan-nan-Nighean, the last- named on the Ardskenish side beside Port-na-Patharlinn — are within view of one another on the southern shore ; a fourth, Dunan-nan-Con, being situated close to the roadside farther north. Dun Cholla is a conspicuous green debris-covered hill on the Balaromin side, and was probably one of the larger, though at the same time one of the less easily defended, of the forts. A church had been situated at Cill-a- Choinnich, and a muileann-dubh stood beside the burn that has since borne its name on the Balaromin side of the strand. Cnoc Eibrigin, a conspicuous green knoll, is topped by a standing-stone of comparatively modern erection. It is said to have been the place where local questions and disputes used to be settled. Two farms — Balaromin-dubh and Balaromin-mor — lie on the eastern side of the road that leads from Scalasaig to the strand. The dark heather-covered hills through which the road carries its winding, undulating way give place, towards the shore, to green slopes and fertile glades fringed here and there between projecting rocky points with pretty bays of white sand. Sycamore-trees, forming a rectangular square which surrounds the garden attached to the residence at Balaromin-dubh, have developed into fair-sized specimens, notwithstanding the open situation. Leana-na-h-Eaglais, or the Plain of the Church, is a flat of greensward near the farm-house of Balaromin-mor, with the remains of an enclosure surrounding the ruins of an old church. A short distance to the east there is a standing- stone to which Donald Ballach is said to have been bound before he was shot by the followers of Angus, son of the famous Coll Ciotach. At that time Colonsay was in the GENERAL DESCRIPTION 37 hands of the Marquis of Argyll, who sent Donald Ballach to the island as his representative. This individual taxed the very shellfish on the shore. On the death of the husband he claimed the horse or the cow of the widow. Sometime about 1644, Angus, son of Coll Ciotach, visited the island. He met a widow taking her only cow as a tribute (damh- wsanri) to Donald Ballach. On hearing her story, Angus sent her home, saying that he would settle the matter with her oppressor. Accompanied by his men, he went to Oransay, where Donald Ballach was staying. The latter was at home on Angus's arrival, and he offered him snuff. " Have you a feather ? " (that is, for the snuff), asked Angus. " I have not," answered Donald Ballach; " if I had [that is, the power of flying] I should not have been awaiting you here this night." Donald was dragged across the strand to Balaromin-mor, where his career was cut short by seven musket-balls ; and word was sent to the Marquis that if he sent another man like Donald Ballach to Colonsay he would be treated in a like manner. On a clear day a nne view of the surroundings is obtained from the top of Beinn Eibhne, which rises abruptly from Poll Gorm to a height of 321 feet. Binnean Crom, a pro- jecting shelf of rock over the edge of a precipice, is said to have been formerly used as a gallows for criminals. There is a hole in the shelf through which one end of the rope was passed. Ruins of old buildings are to be seen on the hill. Underneath, on the rocky, sandy hillocks that fringe the shores of Poll Gorm, the Blue (and white) Spring Squill, the succulent-leaved Rockfoil, and the tidy Whitlow Grass grow in profusion.1 Between Loch Colla and the sea there are stretches of marshy and boggy ground overgrown with characteristic peat-bog vegetation — Mud-sedge, Horse-tail, Bog-cotton, Club-rush, Spike-rush, Sun-dew, Bog Asphodel, 1 Plants of salt-marsh — Glasswort, Milkwort, Sea Aster, and others — are abundant along the margin of the strand. 38 COLONSAY and many others equally common but bearing less familiar names. Dun Eibhinn, situated about a mile west of the harbour, is one of the most impressive of the many forts that once crowned the summits of the hills throughout the island. It is circular in shape, and close on 100 feet in diameter. The position was practically inaccessible except on the side of the entrance to the fort. The hill, like a number more of those that had been utilised for defensive purposes, is green and strewn with the stones which had once formed the fortifications. The last of the M'Phees of Colonsay is said to have lived in the fort. Dunan Leathann is near Cnoc-an- Ardrigh, on the right-hand side of the road that leads up to Milbuie from Scalasaig. The stones were many years ago rolled down the slopes and used for building the dry-stone dyke on the east side of the road. The hearthstone (leac- an-teinntean) discovered in it was so large as to cause those who saw it to wonder how it could have been carried up the hill. A short distance from the hotel, in Buaile Riabhach, a Druidical circle is to be seen. On Beinn-nan-Gudairean, to the south of Loch Fada, heather ale used, it is said, to be made. A large granite boulder, which was probably left there during the glacier period, lies near the top of the hill. About a mile north of the harbour, at Riskbuie, on the east coast, some stones mark the site of the Caibeal — the Chapel of Riskbuie. A curious carved figure, now fixed up at Tobar Oran, was part of a stone cross formerly standing on the east side of the chapel. Another carved figure that rtjioiced in the local sobriquet of Dealbh-na-leisg (Image of Sloti"K) is believed to have been built into one of the adjoin- ing dweilling-houses. In addition to those noted, other antiquarian remains — ruins, standings stones, cairns, burial-places, knocking-stanes, etc. — are to be se£«n in various parts of the island. GENERAL DESCRIPTION 39 Rare and Migrating Birds. — Birds rarely seen in Britain sometimes visit these islands, or are driven to them by stormy weather. One of these rare visitors was picked up alive at the roadside between Kiloran and Kilchattan on 1st January 1897. It was sent to Edinburgh, and identified by Mr W. Eagle Clarke, M.B.O.U., keeper of the Natural History Department, Royal Scottish Museum, as the Frigate Petrel. The bird is now on view in the Museum, and is one of the only two specimens yet found in European waters. The other one was washed ashore dead on Walney Island, Morecambe Bay, in November 1890. Prior to that date it was not seen north of the Canary Isles. Common in the Southern Hemisphere, the species was found breeding in great numbers on the islands off S.W. Australia by Gould's collector, Gilbert. Certain birds, on the other hand, that used to frequent the island are now rarely or never seen. The Chough (Cnamh- ach) used to nest in various places, but it has not been much in evidence for a number of years. From Sguid Pioghaid we might infer that the Magpie (Pioghaid) was once a native. Visitors to the island or its shores that have been casually noticed include the Fieldfare (Liath-Truisg), Redwing, Shoveller, Tufted Duck, Sand Grouse (seen one season), Dotterel, Sanderling, Turnstone, Greenshank, Dunlin, and "American Cuckoo." In addition to those already mentioned, the author has been able, with the kind assistance of Professor Graham Kerr, of Glasgow University, to bring together the local Gaelic and English (or Latin) names of various birds, fishes, shellfish, etc., which may be inserted here. BIRDS. Bal-ar-Bbdhan. — Black Cormorant. Cathag. — Jackdaw. Feannag Idheach. Clachran Coille. — Stone-chat. 40 COLONSAY Cearc Fhraoich. — Grouse. Cearc Thomain. — Partridge. Coileach Dubh.—Klzck Cock ; Black Grouse (male bird). Coileach Fraoich ) M Cock Red Grouge ( ]e Coileach Ruadh ) Eun-a- Ghiuirinn. — Puffin. Eun-a-Phiocaich. — Black Guillemot in immature plumage. Eun-Beag-a-Stoirm. — Stormy Petrel. Eun-Mor. — Gannet ; Solan Goose. Amsan. Faoileann Mhor Ghlas. — Applied probably to large species of Gull in immature plumage. Geadh £od.— Brent Goose. Gearra Chrotach. — Whimbrel. Oranna Chrotach. lolaire. — Sea Eagle. Lacha Mhor. — Eider Duck. Known in neighbouring islands as Lacha Ckolasach (Colonsay Duck). Learg Uisge. — The name given to the Black or Common Cormorant, when seen in winter fishing on fresh- water lochs or streams (see p. 33). Liath Chearc. — Grey Hen • Black Grouse (female bird). Loirean (Gulamag). — Sandpiper. Loirean Tragbadh. — Ring Plover and allied species. Meana' Ghurag. — Snipe. Also Gudabochd, Naosg. Seobhag Bheag Ghlas. — Merlin. Sgarbh. — Shag or Green Cormorant. FISHES. Bacach-gearr.1 — Turbot (?). Bodach Ruadh. — Codling. Bradan. — Salmon. Liathag = youug Salmon or Grilse. Bradan Leathan.1 — Halibut (?). Breac. — Fresh- water Trout. Breac Donuis. — Shanny. 1 The author, not having obtained specimens of these, is unable to identify them with certainty. GENERAL DESCRIPTION 41 Cam-a-Reasain.1 — Hag-fish (?). The Gaelic name is also applied to Fish-lice. CarbJianach.1— Silver Smelt (?); Silver Haddock (?). Carnag. — A fish found at ebb-tide. Carrachan. — Sea-scorpion, one of the Bullheads. Cloimheag. — Butter-fish. Cnamhairneich.1 — (?). Creagag. — Ball an Wrasse. Grog Dhubh.1 — Species of Bullhead (?). Crudan Dearg. — Gurnard (red). Crudan Glas. — Gurnard (grey). Donnag. — Rockling (several kinds). Eas/jann. — Eel. Easgann Mara. — Conger. Fionnag. — Whiting. Garbhag. — Flounder. Gealag. — Sea-trout. Gibearneach. — Cuttle-fish. Gobach Odhar. — A large kind of Ray or Skate. Gobag. — Dog-fish. Greusaiche. — Father-lasher (?), a species of Bullhead or Gurnard. lasg-Mear. — Grey Mullet. Langa. — Ling. Leabag. — Flounder. Garbhag (local). Leabag Bhuinn. — Sole. Leabag Mhor. — Diamond Plaice. Leabag (local). Liu.— Lythe ; Pollack. Mac-lamhaich. — Devil-fish ; Octopus. Morair. — Haddock. Adag. Murlach. — King-fish (local) ; Lesser Spotted Dog-fish. Nathair Thraghadh.1 — Pipe-fish (?) ; sometimes applied to Rag-worm. 1 The author, not having obtained specimens of these, is unable to identify them with certainty. 42 COLONSAY Ordag-a-Mhuilleir. — Gemmeous Dragonet, one of the Gobies. Piocach. — Saithe; Coal-fish. In its young state it is known as Gudainn (Cuddy) ; in the May following, Geiteanach. Piocach is applied to it in the second year, and Piocach-mbr after. Ucsa is the mature fish. Rionnach. — Mackerel. Rionnach-an-Eicli. — Horse Mackerel. Sgadan. — Herring. Sgat.—'R&j; Skate. Siolag. — Launce; Sand-eel (local). Sporran Feannaig. — Mermaid's Purse : the egg of the Dog-fish or a species of Skate. Suit Oir.1— Poor Cod (?). Trosg. — Cod. SHELL-FISH, ETC. Bairneacli. — Limpe t. Breallascan. — Gaper Shell. Ciochan-nam-Ban-Marbh. — Sea Anemone. Claba Dubha. — Cyprina Islandica. Cluasag Baintighearna. — (Artemis exoleta.) Conachag. — Buckie ; Whelk. Conan Mara. — Sea Urchin. Cruban. — Partan ; Edible Crab. Deargann Traghadh. — Sand-hopper ; Sand-flea. Deiseag. — Velvet Swimming Crab. Eisir. — Oyster. Faochag.— Periwinkle ; Whelk (local). Feasgan. — Mussel. Feasgan-mor. — Horse Mussel. Figheadair Fairge. — Spider Crab (?) with long' limbs. 7. — Cockle. 1 The author, not having obtained specimens of these, is unable to identify them with certainty. GENERAL DESCRIPTION 4£ Gille-geal.— White Whelk ; Dog-winkle. Giomach. — Lobster. Giomach Dearg. — Spiny Lobster. Giomach Tuathalach.l—(1). Giuirinn. — Barn acle . Gorra- Crag. — S tar-fish. Lug a. — Lug or Lob- worm. Maighdeag. — Cowrie Shell. Muisgeann. — Razor-fish ; Spout-fish. Parian. — Green Shore Crab. Parian Tuathalach. — Scorpion Spider Crab. Sgeith Rbin. — Jelly-fish. Slige Cas Capuill. — Sometimes applied to the flat shell of the Clam. Slige Chreachain. — Scallop Shell ; Clam. Sop-gun-IarraidTi. — The spawn of the Whelk or Buckie. SEAWEEDS 2 Barr Dearg. — Tangle tops. Barr Leathachan. — Laminaria saccharina. Sea-belt. Cailionnagach. — Plocamium coccineum. Carrachdag ; Dubh-Shlat. — Laminaria digitaia, var. stenophylla. Duileasg. — Dulse. Feamainn. — Seaweed ; Sea-ware. FeamainnBhuiceanach. — Fucus platycarpus (F. ceranoides). Feamainn Bliuidhe. — Fucus nodosus. Knobbed Seaweed. This was the kind formerly used (locally) for making kelp. It was cut every third year. Feamainn Bhuilgeanach. — Bladder Wrack (Propach, C.). 1 The author, not having obtained specimens of these, is unable to identify them with certainty. 2 For kind assistance in the identification of the Seaweeds, the writer's thanks are due to Miss Zamorska, Technical College, Glasgow. 44 COLONSAY Feamainn Chireagach. — Channelled Wrack. Feamainn Dhubh. — Fucus serratus. Notched Wrack. Gille-ma-Lionn. — Sea Laces. Gruag-na-Maighdean-Mhara. — Desmarestia aculeata. Llobhagach. — Applied to Confervse such as Enteromorpha intestinalis, etc. Mathair-an-Duilisg. — Carrageen ; Irish Moss. Muraille. — Badderlocks ; Hen ware ; Murlins. The mid- rib and the spore- producing part of it (Sgeachagan) are edible. Muraille-mbr. — Himanthcdia lorea (female plant). Rbmhagacli. — Himanthalia lorea (male plant). Slabhachdan.— Sloke. Stafa. — Laminaria digitata. Tangle. Trailleach. — A kind of seaweed considered to be of little value as manure for land, as it dried up and took a long time to decay. CHAPTER II THE occurrence in the Western Islands of Scotland of certain plants — Rock Samphire, Sea-Kale, etc. — confined elsewhere in Europe to countries lying farther south, points to more equable conditions of climate than have been generally supposed to prevail in these northern latitudes. The Rock Samphire was found in Colonsay in 1906, and two years later on the Mangustra cliffs, a little north of Eilean Molach, on the west coast of Lewis, in lat. 58° 5' N. On the authority of Mr Bennett, no station for this plant, out- side Britain, is known in Europe north of lat. 51°. The Sea- Kale occurs in Islay, and there is an old record of the finding of it in the Outer Hebrides — " head of Lochmaddy, North Uist, on sand, 1848. D. C. Burlingham." From the returns of the meteorological stations (as they are printed in the Journals of the Meteorological Society), we find that the Western Islands of Scotland possess a climate which, in mildness and uniformity of temperature, is quite exceptional, and Avithout a parallel in the same latitude. During the months of December and January the mean temperature of those islands lying south of Harris and Skye — 41° to 44° F. — is reached or exceeded elsewhere in Britain only in the Isle of Man and Anglesea, and in the western and south-western extremities of England and "Wales. The only places in Scotland with a mean tempera- 45 46 COLONSAY ture of not less than 42° F. during January are the southern islands of the Outer Hebrides — North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and Barra, with their islets, and Tiree in the Inner Hebrides. Thus we find tender exotics, unable to survive the keener winters of the neighbourhood of London, thriving in the Western Islands, much farther north. The influences at work in modifying the cold of winter are equally well marked in tempering the heat of summer. During the warmest months — June, July, and August — the only districts in the kingdom that have a mean tem- perature as low as, or lower than, that of the Isles — 53° to •57° F. — are the seaboards of Argyll and Western Inverness, a narrow strip along the north-east of Scotland to Kinnaird Head, and the counties lying north of the Moray Firth. As an agreeable change from the warmer and more enervating regions of the south, the cool, bracing climate of the Islands is yearly becoming more appreciated by an increasing number of tourists, who travel westwards during the warmest of the months. The mildness of the Hebridean climate is emphasised by taking a wider view of the subject, and comparing the climate of the country as a whole with that of other countries in the same latitude. The following table, repro- duced from Hann's Climatology, shows the MEAN TEMPERATURES ALONG LATITUDE 52° N. FROM WEST TO EAST Station. Longitude. January. July. Difference. Valencia, S.W. Ireland . 10" 25' W. 42° "3 F. 59° '2 F. 16°'9 F. Oxford . . . . 1° 16' W. 38°'5 610<2 22° 7 Posen .... 17° 5'E. 27° "I 64°'9 37°'8 Kursk .... 36° 8'E. 15°'l 67°'6 52" -5 Barnaul and Semipala- tinsk. 80°30'E. 1-0° '4 71°'2 71°'6 CLIMATE 47 Formerly the mildness of our winters was generally attributed to the influence of the Gulf Stream, which was supposed to flow across the Atlantic in a never-ending stream of warmer waters to our shores. This long-established theory has of late years lost its weight with many investi- gators. It is found that the Gulf Stream has almost ceased to exist a little to the east of the Banks of Newfoundland ; and the most recent authorities attribute the favourable temperature conditions of the North Atlantic directly to the influence of the prevailing south-westerly winds, and indirectly to a surface drift of warmer waters which these winds drive before them. The prevailing winds on the American side of the Atlantic, on the other hand, are from the north-east, bringing to lower latitudes the icy conditions of the Arctic Circle. The prevalence of our balmy south- westerly winds is due to the existence of a permanent area of high pressure near the Azores, and a permanent area of low pressure near Iceland.1 Although no record of the climate of Colonsay is available, an approximate idea of its character may be formed from the returns of surrounding meteorological stations (v. p. 48). The island's vegetation is also a good indication of the nature of its climate, and if we had no other means of information much could still be learned, with regard to _ the general meteorological conditions prevailing, from a careful survey of the island's flora. Moss- and lichen-coated trees indicate a moisture-laden atmosphere; spongy and mossy pastures, and an abundance of rushes, sedges, and other plants of wet situations point to an unstinted and a well- distributed rainfall. Trees and plantations leaning east- 1 " Address on the Climate of the British Isles," by Andrew Watt, M.A., F.R.S.E., Secretary of the Scottish Meteorological Society (Scottish Geographical Magazine, April 1908). Much of the informa- tion herein contained has been gleaned from Mr "Watt's interesting paper. 48 COLONSAY TABLE SHOWING THE MEAN MONTHLY AND ANNUAL TEMPERATURES OF THREE INSULAR STATIONS SURROUNDING COLONSAY: those for the first and second being calculated on a mean of 40 years — January 1856 to December 1895 — and for the third on a mean of 10 years— 1897 to 1906 inclusive. J 1 g £ . > Station. 1 JlH anuai 1 « SH -, 1 A a a 1-5 S 3 ° 1-5 * Rudha Vaal, feet. miles. Islay . 147 8S 40-9 40 -S 40 Q 4 vo 48'6 54'2 Du Hirteach Lighthouse 145 15 WNW 42-0 41-4 41 4 i-O 48-3 52-9 Lochbuie, Mull . 20 20 NE 431 39-0 41 0 4 1-6 49-3 55'4 Station. a .2 3 c lilt 13 i ! 1 1 1 § Year. 3 a5 " <1 02 c 5 0 1 feet. Rudha Vaal, miles. e Tslay. . Du Hirteach 147 8S 55-6 56-0 54-0 4^ •9 44- 427 47-9 Lighthouse 145 15 WNW 55-2 557 54-4 4< )•! 451 44-0 48-0 Lochbuie, - Mull. 20 20 NE 57-0 56-4 54-5 4{ J-4 44'f 41-5 47-9 ward testify to the prevalence and force of the westerly winds. Plants of foreign origin, which are found growing extensively out of doors elsewhere only in the climatically favoured counties of Cornwall and Devonshire, indicate the mildness of the island's winter climate. In favourable seasons, the peach and the fig ripen their fruit in good situations on walls in the open. The heat of summer is not, however, sufficient, as a rule, to bring wheat to perfec- CLIMATE 49 tion ; and owing to the prevalence of sunless days in autumn the ripening process of the young wood of fruit-trees and other plants is often but imperfectly done. Temperature. — According to Dr Buchan's maps of the temperature of the British Isles, the mean annual temperature of the county of Argyll is 48° -5 F. ; the average variation being 39°-5-42* F. in January to 56°-57°'5 F. in July. In mid-winter (January) the only parts of Britain that have a mean temperature of 41° F. and over are situated west of a line drawn from Loch Roag in Lewis southward through Skye, Ardnamurchan, and the Isles of Mull and Islay. Colonsay lies west of this line, with, if it be produced farther south, the Isle of Man and Anglesea, the western seaboards of Wales and the extreme south-western counties of England. Along the East Coast, on the other hand, the isotherms of 38° and 39° are dominant. In mid-summer, again, we find that, owing to the tempering influence of the Atlantic, the temperature on the West Coast is generally lower than it is on the East. Elevation and Temperature. — For every 300 feet ascent that we make the thermometer drops 1° F. To get the same decrease of temperature at sea-level we have to travel more than a degree of latitude due north. Owing to this natural decrease of temperature from south to north, we find that the limit at which cultivation can be carried on gradually descends from an altitude of 2000 feet in the south of Eng- land to sea-level in the Shetland Isles. The bracken is said to determine the line of cultivation in Britain, but on the West Coast it is not uncommonly found growing at elevations at which few crops could be grown with profit. In a low- lying island like Colonsay, the difference in temperature between sea-level and the highest point is so small (less than 2° F.) as to be barely noticeable, and hardly sufficient to affect the distribution of plants. On the mainland, however, and wherever the land attains to a considerable altitude, we find, 4 50 COLONSAY as we ascend, an appreciable reduction of temperature, marked in the loftier of the islands by the occurrence of certain species of plants that are rarely, or never, found growing at low levels. Rainfall. — According to Dr Hugh Eobert Mill, Director of the "British Rainfall," the yearly rainfall of Colonsay may be taken as varying from 40 to 50 inches, distributed throughout the months of the year, on an average, as follows : — January 5 inches, February 4 inches, March 3 inches, April 2 inches, May 2 inches, June 3 inches, July 4 inches, August 4 inches, September 5 inches, October 5 inches, November 5 inches, December 5 inches. MEAN MONTHLY AND ANNUAL RAINFALL OF THREE INSULAR STATIONS SURROUNDING COLONSAY : calculated on a mean of 15 years — 1876 to 1890 — for Gruinart and Fladda, and on a mean of 9 years— 1866 to 1874— for Hynish, Tiree. a c S o % . £ Station. 1 J2 in I 1 1 4 1 | feet miles Gruinart, Islay 214 10 S 4-88 3-55 3-1 1 2 07 2-09 2-86 Fladda . 12 20 NE 6'66 4-28 4'] 0 2 35 2-50 374 Hynish Farm, Tiree . 50 34 NW 5-27 3-53 2 •68 2-26 2-19 § lg £ 1 & ! S fe Station. 1 IIU .22 Q 0 "3 i-s I 1 02 •! I ! i a S £ 1 Year. feet miles Gruinart, Islay 214 10 S 3-07 3-80 4-33 4' 25 4'9( 5-41 44-40 Fladda . 12 20 NE 4-19 4-36 5-14 5- 48 6-2' 5-82 54-89 Hynish Farm, Tiree . 50 34 NW 3-18 2-73 4-18 4' 32 S 3-47 40-52 CLIMATE 51 The height and configuration of the land have a powerful influence on the rainfall. Where high hills intercept moisture-laden winds from the sea, the fall is much greater than it is in low-lying districts. Warm air holds more vapour in suspension than cold air ; and as the moisture- laden winds that blow in from the sea rise over the hills they quickly cool and precipitate part of their moisture in the form of rain or fog. At the low-lying lands of the Rhinns of Islay the average fall is probably under 40 inches ; in the more hilly district round M'Arthur's Head in the same island it rises to about 60 inches (37 years' average, 1862-98). In Tiree, where much of the land is scarcely higher than sea-level, the annual fall is little more than 40 inches; at Lochbuie, which lies under the high mountains of Mull, it is 90 inches. At Stornoway the annual fall is about 48 inches (1856- 98), at Portree 88 inches, and at Dunollie and Oban about 60 inches. A comparison of the returns from the East Coast with those from the West shows that the rainfall on the West Coast is much greater than it is on the East, on no part of which does it reach 40 inches, while it is less than 30 on the north-east coast of Caithness, the low-lying lands to the south-east of the Moray Firth, along the East Coast to Burnt- island, and on the low grounds of Mid and East Lothian. Over a large part of the south-east of England, from the Humber to the estuary of the Thames, the average rainfall varies from about 22 to 25 inches. The average number of days on which rain falls annually on the West Coast is about 200, and on the East Coast 150. Great variations, however, occur in the annual rainfall, and a short series of observa- tions, if taken as indicating the average rainfall of a particular district, might prove very misleading. Even a decade is not a long enough period to get a true mean. The seventies were a wet decade, which, if taken alone, would lead us to 52 COLONSAY overestimate the rainfall of many localities ; the eighties, a dry decade that would cause us to underestimate it. Winds. — In the more exposed of the Western Isles the prevalence of strong winds has a most detrimental effect on the growth of many plants, particularly those that are not native but have been introduced to the islands. During the early part of the growing season the tender leaves and shoots of trees in exposed positions become prematurely battered and brown, and are rendered unfit for carrying on the complicated processes that are so vital to the well- being of the plant. Not infrequently the young leaves are torn off the trees by the force of the wind before they are fully developed. Owing to the preponderance of westerly winds, trees in exposed positions acquire a characteristic one-sided shape, the greater part of their development being in the easterly direction. Autumn gales frequently damage the fruit crop by stripping the fruit off the trees. Often when a gale or stormy weather is approaching from the west a rising swell on the sea gives premonitory warning of its advance several days beforehand, even though the air around may be comparatively still. Directions from which the wind blew at Du Hirteach Lighthouse (15 miles W.N.W. of Colonsay) during 1898 : — K, 44 days; N.E., 19 days; E., 28 days; S.E., 37 days; S., 58 days ; S.W., 69 days ; W., 59 days ; N.W., 49 days ; calm or variable, 2 days. Sunshine. — The percentage of sunshine on the West Coast is greater than might be expected, taking into consideration the heavy rainfall of the West Coast when compared with that of the East. In 1906 bright sunshine at Oban was 28 per cent (average rainfall 60 inches), and in Edinburgh 31| per cent (rainfall 26 inches). The average sunshine for Stornoway for 25 years is 29 per cent. In spring, when CLIMATE 53 east winds are common, the West Coast is frequently much sunnier than the East. Locally, the sunniest and driest weather is experienced in the months of April, May, and June, crops sometimes suffering from drought during that period. In the daily sunshine returns for May and June 1909, published from health and holiday resorts all over the country, Oban, for a period, remained at the top of the list. In addition to this remarkable duration of sunshine, the climate of the district is characterised by other notable features. Analysis has shown that, for purity, its atmo- sphere is unexcelled in Europe ; and while all along the West Coast the rainfall is considerable, the humidity is less than that of Brighton and other health resorts in the south of England. The dryness of the atmosphere in Colonsay may be gathered from the rapidity with which the soil and the roads dry even after heavy rains. Temperature of the Sea. — The mean annual temperature of the sea on the West Coast of Scotland is 49°'l F., ranging (at Oban) from 43° '3 F. in March (the coldest period) to 55° '7 F. in August. In shallow bays, at full tide on a sunny day, the temperature is much higher, and in Colonsay the sea is much warmer on the southern than it is on its deeper northern shores. On the East Coast of Scotland the mean annual temperature of the sea is 1° to 2° F. less than that of the West, ranging (at Dunbar) from 40°'3 F. in March to 56°*4 in August. The temperatures of the sea and the air are about equal on the East Coast ; on the West Coast the temperature of the sea is 2° to 3° F. in excess of that of the air. CHAPTER III GEOLOGICAL FORMATION VIEWED across the intervening channel f rom Colonsay, the land- scape of Mull presents to us certain unfamiliar features which find no counterpart in Colonsay or in any of the neighbouring islands within view. The terraced outline of the majestic Ben Mor is rounded and full, but, even where dissected into summits and slopes, this Tertiary volcanic mass differs funda- mentally in appearance from the hills of the southern islands, which are composed of very ancient schistose rocks. In these two islands, Colonsay and Mull, we have types sufficiently illustrative of the two main formations — schistose and gneissose on the one hand, and basaltic on the other — into which the Western Isles of Scotland may be grouped. Colonsay, Gigha, Islay, Jura, and neighbouring islets are, as might be expected from the trend of the great Caledonian rent, closely associated in structure with the mainland of Argyll. It is not certain, however, that the rocks of Colonsay are actually represented among the schists of the Argyllshire mainland, and it is interesting to note that Dr Peach places them in the great Torridonian system, named after Loch Torridon in Ross-shire. The rocks of Coll, Tiree, lona, and the Outer Hebrides are more like the north of Scotland gneisses. Skye, Canna, Eigg, Mull, and some smaller islets comprise those of basaltic structure. While broadly placing them in a few groups, minor 54 GEOLOGICAL FORMATION 55 differences enter into the formation of individual islands which impart to each its distinctive characteristics in landscape and scenery; the composition of the flora also varies to some extent. Few of the islands of the Inner Hebrides are, in detai], identical in structure ; but the Outer Hebrides present us with more of a sameness in formation, their entire length, a stretch of 130 miles, being mainly composed of Old or Lewisian gneiss, the most ancient rock in Britain. Coll, Tiree, and the greater part of lona are similarly formed. In some of the Outer Hebrides, where the vegetation is too scanty to obscure its naked surface, this rock imparts a barren and desolate aspect to the landscape. It attains its greatest elevation in the island of Harris, where it rises to a height of 2662 feet. The basaltic islands, from Skye southward to Mull, are of much more recent origin, and consist of consolidated lava- flows erupted during the Tertiary period. Ulster, Mull, Rum, Skye, St Kilda, the Faroes, and Iceland are believed to have been the principal centres of volcanic activity, from which, it is claimed by some, cones arose to a height of 15,000 feet, ejecting discharges which overran an area of 40,000 square miles. Others hold that the lavas issued more often from fissures than from definite craters, and built up undulating plateaux rather than cones. The numerous north-west basaltic "dykes" of the "Western Highlands furnish ample evidence of the existence of volcanic fissures of this period, although it remains an open question whether these were the chief sources of the lava streams. There is no lack of evidence to show that these islands were once united in one great plateau.1 The northern and larger portion of the Isle of Skye is mainly composed of Tertiary volcanic rocks. The Cullins originated from bosses of gabbro which pierced through underlying basalt plateaux; and the Red Hills between 1 See Appendix. 56 COLONSAY Sligachan and Broadford have been similarly formed of granophyre and allied rocks — striking examples of the peculiar contour assumed by the particular varieties of rock of which they are composed. There are large areas of Torridonian sandstone, much like that of Colonsay, in the south of Skye ; and the neighbouring isles of Soay, Scalpay, and part of Eaasay are mainly formed of it. Torridonian sandstone is the principal rock in the northern half of Eum. The higher mountains of the southern portion of the island are composed of gabbro. Quartz-porphyry and allied rocks enter into the formation of the western side ; while gneissose rocks, recently shown by Mr Barker to be of Tertiary age, are much in evidence in the south-east. The isles of Canna, Muck, and Eigg mainly consist of basaltic lavas. Mull, like the northern part of Skye, is mostly Tertiary volcanic rock. Deep layers of lava flows appear to cover remains of the Mesozoic period. The mountains north of Lochbuie are composed of gabbro ; while Ben Mor, the highest mountain in Mull, is formed of bedded lavas. Granite appears over a large area of the Eoss of Mull. It is quarried, and has been largely employed in structures requiring great strength. Du Hirteach and Skerryvore lighthouses, Black- friars Bridge, Holborn Viaduct, Thames Embankment, and the Prince Consort Memorial, Hyde Park, are well-known structures for which this stone has been used. The landscape of the basaltic differs greatly from that of the gneissose and schistose islands. The regular terraced formation and beautiful green-verdured slopes, such as are to be seen in Mull and the north of Skye, pleasingly contrast with the irregular ruggedness of the Outer and South Inner Hebrides. As the decay of the rocks furnishes a rich loam which supports a luxuriant growth of grass, the basalt districts are distinguished by their greenness even up to the tops of the hills. GEOLOGICAL FORMATION 57 The South Inner Hebrides consist, for the most part, of a series of complicated and highly metamorphosed rocks, known for the present as Dalriadian, from the ancient Celtic kingdom of Dalriada. The islands form, as it were, the south-western fringe of the zone of rocks belonging to this group, which traverses the Central Highlands of Scotland. Gigha, the most southern of the islands, is, like the adjacent portion of Kintyre, mainly composed of quartzite and mica- schist. The western part of Islay consists mostly of grits and dark slates of the Torridonian system, with Lewisian gneisses forming the Khinns. The central parts are mostly slate, the north and east quartzite-schist. Broad belts of limestone run between Portaskaig and the head of Lochindaal. Portaskaig is well known to geologists also for its conglomerates containing granite boulders. Jura and Scarba are principally formed of quartzite-schist. The Paps of Jura and the adjacent hills of Islay are among the finest and most characteristic examples of quartzite rocks to be seen in the Highlands. Luing and Seil are composed of graphitic mica-schist and black slate, the latter being worked ; Lismore and the Garvelloch Isles consist of lime- stone, associated in the latter with Portaskaig conglomerate ; Kerrera is composed of andesite (porphyrite), etc. The islands of Colonsay and Oransay were described by M'Culloch as "extremely uninteresting in a geological view," the predominant rock being micaceous schist ; but subsequent investigations have discovered that there are other and interesting varieties of rock entering into the structure of these islands. Quite recent researches, by Messrs Wright and Bailey of the Geological Survey, have brought to light certain facts which may have an important bearing, not only on the orogenic history of Colonsay, but also on that of the Highlands in general. Geology, to the lay mind, is a somewhat abstruse subject, 58 COLONSAY and it is not proposed here to enter into its discussion further than to note some of its relations to the landscape and flora of Colonsay. The difficulties encountered by any other than a geologist in tracing certain rocks through the island, owing to the superficial resemblance the different varieties bear to one another and their lack of distinctive features, are greatly increased by the many intermediate forms which they assume. Irregularities in topography and in the outcropping of the rocks also occur, which are sufficiently great to perplex the novice in his pursuit of practical geology in the field, and to prevent him, if left to his own resources, from ever discovering the key to the stratigraphical problem of the islands. A coloured geological map, kindly lent by Messrs Wright and Bailey, prepared after the recent- survey of the island by the Geological Department, enabled the writer to follow up the principal rocks throughout the island, with a view to ascertaining the influence (if any) exerted by the underlying strata on the surface vegetation, referred to more in detail elsewhere. Colonsay and Oransay are, as already stated, mainly composed of sedimentary rock of Lower Torridonian age. They consist of " alternating series of grits, flags, and mud- stones, with a well-marked bed of sandy limestone near the top." l The strike is approximately north-east and south-west, and the prevalent dip towards the east. "The Colonsay limestone, which, with the beds above and below it, constitutes an easily recognisable horizon, occurs on the eastern coast of the island, dipping out to sea at a low angle." An almost continuous succession from higher to lower beds is passed over as one proceeds westwards or southwards from the limestone, " and on finally reaching the extreme outlying parts of Oransay and Ardskenish there is still no indication F.G.S. (Q p. 297). The Two Earth-Movements of Colonsay," by W. B. Wright, B. A. , . (Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society, vol. Ixiv. No. 254 GEOLOGICAL FORMATION 59 of any base to this enormously thick series of sediments." Taking the harbour, therefore, as the most accessible though perhaps not the most illustrative starting-point, and following the road westwards past Machrins beyond the golf-links to Dun Ghallain, some 3 miles distant, we may conveniently take note of the principal series of strata of which the island is composed as they occur on the way. In the immediate neighbourhood of Scalasaig there is a mass of granitic rock quite different in structure and origin from the surrounding sedimentary strata. On both sides of the road, between the harbour and the hotel, it is seen protruding through green patches of verdure in confused heaps of angular, grey masses. Further notice of this rock is deferred to a later paragraph dealing with igneous rocks, to which class it properly belongs. The bed of limestone previously referred to skirts the coast in a narrow strip from Balaromin-dubh until it passes out to sea at Rudha-an-Dobhrain north of Scalasaig. It is therefore to be seen both north and south of the harbour, but close to the road it is covered by the granite. A good exposure of it occurs at the monument. Dark phyllites, which overlie the limestone, appear at Rudha-dubh and on the east of Balaromin-dubh, between the outcrop of the lime- stone and the shore. Kiloran flags, the strata underlying the limestone, form most of the hilly land, north and south, from Dun Tealtaig to Balaromin-dubh. The flanks of the Beannan above the hotel, and the ridges eastward to Carn-mor, show much bare rock through a scanty covering of heather and other dark heathy vegetation often seen on this formation. The western declivities of Cnoc-na-Faire, on which the monu- ment stands, and the hills of Balaromin show less naked rock. Associated with the limestone it also encircles Kiloran Bay, rising into Carnan Eoin, the highest hill. Beinn-a- Sgoltaire, Beinn-nan-Gudairean, and Cnoc-an-t-Samhlaidh are 62 COLONSAY South of the road, beyond the boggy ground of Rioma-mhor, alternate beds of mudstones and grits run their length through Garvard to the strand, each kind of rock carrying with it its peculiar characteristics of contour, which are well exposed on both sides of the track from Garvard House to Bealach-an-Aircleich. The mudstones rise up in low weathered escarpments on the east side of the path, the grits presenting their rounded forms on the west. Mudstones reappear in Oransay, rising there into the highest hill, Beinn Orasa. The stone has been much used for building the field dykes about Machrins. Cutting across the golf-links to the headland of Dun Ghallain, we come to the last of the rock series to be considered — the Dun Ghallain green-banded epidotic grits — which, except for the mudstones and sandstones, are . the lowest rocks of the Colonsay series. Near the head of Port Lobh the overlying white felspathic grits are readily distinguished from the Dun Ghallain grits by their different structure. The white grits are not as clearly stratified as the green-banded grits. Dun Ghallain grits curve round the south-west of the island from Turnicil to the head of Traigh-nam-Barc, rising there into Cam Spiris, and appearing again in the Cuirn-mhor of lochdar-na-Garbhaird and on the Oransay side of the strand. In the north-eastern extremity of the island the relations are more complex. A traverse made from the outcrop of the limestone at Scalasaig to Kiloran Bay passes " first over successively lower beds dipping south-eastwards, and then this dip is reversed and the same series is repeated in ascending order until the Kiloran Bay limestone is once more reached. The anticline thus crossed has a north-easterly trend, and brings to the surface, along its axis, the rocks of the Kiloran and Milbuie groups which underlie the limestone. From the manner in which the limestone circles round Kiloran Bay, it is clear that the latter here occupies the GEOLOGICAL FORMATION 63 Centre of a synclinal basin. Finally, the northern end of the island has an anticlinal structure; and a mass of gneiss, presumably of Lewisian age, occupies the centre of the fold," e.g. to the north of Balanahard Bay and at Sgeir Nic Fhionnlaidh, etc., "which has a north-easterly trend." * Igneous Rocks. — Scalasaig granite, already referred to, is the largest mass of igneous rock in the island. It is a diorite, and is described by Professor Geikie as a "coarsely crystalline rock of a very hard, tough, and durable character. It forms a handsomely marked rock — the pale and dark- coloured minerals being in about equal proportions — and might be advantageously employed as an ornamental building -stone. For structures requiring great strength hardly a better stone could be desired, as its crushing power must be very considerable." It was locally used in the construction of Scalasaig pier. Syenite and kentallenite, other granitic rocks, appear in Balanahard — the former above Slochd-a-Chroinn, and the latter in the vicinity of Cnoc Ormadail. Kentallenite is a particularly interesting rock, taking its name from Kentallen, where it has been wrought for years as " the black granite of Ballachulish." There are four smaller plutonic masses — two in the northern part of Balanahard, one in Lamalum, and one in Aoineadh-nam-Muc. Lamprophyre dykes of widely different ages are numerous in the north of the island, while basalt dykes (Saor-an-Dao) of Tertiary age are to be met with in the south. Glaciation. — Viewed some distance off, the hills of the island present certain flowing and undulating features which geologists inform us are characteristic results of glacial 1 The Two Earth- Movements of Colonsay, by W. B. Wright, B.A., F.G.S. 64 COLONSAY action. In glacial times, so we are told, the whole of the country, like the north of Greenland at the present time, was overflowed with ice, which ground and smoothed all the rough surfaces. But the softer rocks, readily affected by the weather, have in the lapse of intervening ages lost much of the rounded outline acquired during the glacial period. Nevertheless, a careful examination will discover well - smoothed and well - striated surfaces. These striae, which are very well seen on the rocks rising from the strand, were caused by the rubbing of stones as they were pushed along the surface by moving glaciers. They agree in the general direction in which they run — east to west — and this shows that the ice, as might be expected, flowed from the mainland. Here and there, in hollows and on the hill-sides, boulders carried by the ice, differing in structure from the surrounding rocks, are met with. Messrs Wright and Bailey have identified boulders of granite from Glen Fyne, porphyries from Loch Fyne, pebbly sandstones and red conglomerates from an unknown source ; also schists, such as those of Jura and Crinan, and other kinds of rocks not entering into the formation of Colonsay. These " erratics," which were carried along by the ice, point to a prolonged movement from the easterly direction. Boulder clay or till is met with in hollows in various localities. It is usually a reddish coloured, gritty clay, quite unstratified, and abundantly charged with angular and sub- angular stones and boulders, not a few of which show finely striated surfaces. Many of the stones are of local origin, while others come from a distance. The distribution of the boulder clay confirms the supposition regarding the direction from which the ice came. It is generally found in situations sheltered from the full brunt of the ice as it flowed from the mainland. Ant-Allt-ruadh (the Red Burn) has probably derived its name from the discoloi'ation of its GEOLOGICAL FORMATION 65 waters, in time of flood, by this deposit through which it grooves its channel. Superficial Deposits. — The principal of these are: — (1) Raised Beach Deposits, (2) Boulder Clay, (3) Peat, (4) Alluvium, and (5) Blown Sands. The most fertile and easily worked soils in the island originated from raised beach deposits laid down at the time when the sea over- flowed the land to various levels at and below the 100-feet contour. Though the soils are usually of a light stony nature, they yield good crops. The arable land of Balanahard, Port - an - Tigh - mhoir, East Kiloran, Lower Kilchattan, Machrina, Ardskenish, Garvard, and some other places, as well as Oransay, are of this character. Boulder clay is expensive to work, but with good drainage and tillage yields good crops. The principal areas of it are West Kiloran, Upper Kilchattan, Laon Airidh, West Scalasaig, and Balaromin-dubh. Much of the low-lying land, mostly meadow, such as Kiloran meadows and the low ground bordering Loch Fada — Blar-an-Deabhaidh, Leana-ghlas, etc. — is composed of peat. Unless well looked after in the matter of drainage and top-dressing, grass in these meadows is apt to die out and be replaced by less nutritious plants, such as the Jointed Rush (Frafann), sedges, mosses, and others of a semi-aquatic nature. The principal areas of alluvium to be met with are the low-lying parts of Fang in Kiloran, Leana-na-Cachaleith in Kilchattan, and Moine Thomach in Scalasaig. Tracts of blown sand, irregular and billowy in outline, are to be seen in the north and south ends of the island. Over most of the hilly land there is a layer of peat, of some depth in the hollows, becoming thin towards the tops of the hills, and frequently allowing bare rock to be exposed on the summits. That the peat layer is gradually increasing in depth may be observed in the peat-cutting areas, where 5 66 COLONSAY trenches that are made in cutting peat for fuel are seen, in the course of years, to be filling up. When cutting is done, the top spit with the covering vegetation is removed and laid aside ; after the available layers of peat have been removed, it is set back in the bottom of the trench. Although the growing process of the peat is noticeable in moist places, it is not so apparent on the dry hill-tops. Besides those already enumerated, many intermediate grades of soil are to be met with throughout the island — dark, hazel and yellow loams, soils containing a large propor- tion of humus, and others of a sandy nature, with possibly small areas of calcareous soils in Uragaig and some other places. There is no available record of the soils having been analysed. One of the most fertile loams in the island has been formed by the decay of the "Scalasaig granite." " Much of the fertility of the districts bordering on the sea is derived from shelly sand which the Atlantic supplies more or less abundantly to all the islands of the Inner and Outer Hebrides. This sand supports a beautifully green turf, which in summer time is gay with wild flowers, affording colour effects for which the landscape painter may search the pasture-lands of the mainland in vain. The greater part of Oransay is of this character."1 Landscape and scenery are largely dependent on geological structure. Hard rocks resist disintegration and form hills, while the softer and more destructible materials crumble away into hollows and valleys. Every prattling stream that finds its way to the sea assists in the process of landscape sculpture. The running water carves out the hollows and the valleys by cutting and grooving the channels of the streams deeper and ever deeper, carrying away the loosened 1 "Notes on the Geology of Colonsay and Oransay," by James Geikie, LL.D., F.R.S., F.R.S.E., etc., of H.M. Geological Survey (Tramactions of the Geological Society of Glasgow, vol. vi. part ii., 1878-79, 1879-80). GEOLOGICAL FORMATION 67 material in its downward course. Without considering its rocky aspect, which possibly strikes the traveller from the south as nothing short of remarkable, the predominating note in the island's landscape is the flowing and undulating outline acquired during the glacial period. It is true, however, that the softer rocks are yielding to the disintegrating influence of the weather, and that the characteristic results of the ice are being slowly but surely effaced. Rocks and Flora. — Owing to the identical structure of Coll, Tiree, and the Outer Hebrides, we would expect to find their floras very much alike in composition. Such, in fact, is the case ; but while Mr M 'Vicar, in his Notes on the Flora of Western Inverness, classes Tiree with the Outer Hebrides, he points out that the flora of Coll has many features in common with that of the schistose islands. In the actual records of plants there is a greater resemblance between the floras of the schistose and gneissose islands than between either of them and those of the basaltic formations. It should be noted, however, that the soil in many of the most prolific localities in the former has not been derived from the rocks of which the islands are composed, but has been deposited during the raised-beach periods. It is probably of these raised-beach deposits that much of the low-lying and most fertile land of the islands — Coll, Tiree, Barra, etc. — is composed. A larger number of plants are found in the South Inner Hebrides than in any of the other groups. The many other kinds of rocks, besides the schists, entering into the struc- ture of the islands may help to enrich their flora. Certain calcicole plants are known to occur on the limestone in Islay, and even in Colonsay, where the area occupied by this rock is restricted to very narrow limits. The flora of Lismcre is characterised by the common occurrence of 68 COLONSAY certain species — Wall Rue and Hartstongue Ferns, Rock Rose, etc. — which show a preference for lime. Plants are found on the basaltic formation which have not been recorded from the South Inner Hebrides. Some species, again, are common to both groups of islands that are wanting in the Outer Hebrides ; while a still fewer number are found in the Outer Hebrides and on the basaltic islands that are absent from the South Inner Hebrides. CHAPTER IV WOODS, LOCHS, AND PASTURES Natural Woods.1 — There are two natural woods — Coille-mhor and Coille-bheag — on the eastern slopes of the northern half of the island, and there is reason to believe that formerly they extended over a much larger area of the island than they now cover. The woods principally consist of birch of the Tomentosa section. Varieties of Betula alba were dis- covered, but not the type; investigations in this direction, however, were not searching. There is a good proportion of oak (one specimen being identified as Quercus pedunculata and another as Q. sessiliflora) in Coille-mhor ; and of Aspen (Populus tremula) in Coille-bheag, where some trees 30 to 35 feet high are to be seen. Hazel, Rowan, Willow, HaAvthorn, and Holly also enter into the composition of the woods. A few good-sized Ash-trees are to be seen in Glaic-an-Uinnsinn, but it is doubtful if they are truly indigenous. Near the beginning of last century a path from Colonsay House was made through Coille-mhor to a summer-house (an Tigh C6intich) at Cul-Salach, and it is possible that the Ash- trees were then planted. Although many of the old Birch-trees are dying out, the woods are being rejuvenated by young plantations of Birch 1 This paper on " Jsatural Woods and Plantations" was read before the Edinburgh Botanical Society at their meeting on 8th April 1909. 69 70 COLONSAY and Aspen, which are naturally springing up and contending for supremacy with an annual luxuriant growth of bracken. The Woodbine twines over the trees, and festoons along the edges of the numerous rocky gullies that cut up these slopes ; and the Ivy has climbed up and formed pretty evergreens of the more stunted of the forest trees. The Prickly Toothed Buckler Fern grows in profusion, and the little Filmy Fern is also to be seen under mossy banks. White felspathic grits underlie Coille-bheag, and grey phyllites is the principal rock in the vicinity of Coille-mhor, the better condition of the rabbits in the latter being, no doubt, due to the more grassy herbage of the phyllites on which they feed. Estate Plantations. — The earliest planted trees now to be seen in the island are a few old specimens of Ash and Elm, survivors of a semicircular line of trees which marked the boundary of the original mansion-house garden. These, together with a clump on the southern slope of Beinn-a- Sgoltaire, are believed to have been planted more than a century and a half ago — possibly soon after the first part of the mansion-house had been built, in 1722. In his Tour (1772), Pennant remarks on the vigorous growth of the trees around Colonsay House. Other trees within the policies, now grown to a considerable size, were planted about a century ago. The first extensive planting of trees began about .eighty to ninety years ago, when Cnoc Calanda, Pairc Dharaich, Caolachadh, Fail-na-Muc, and Glaic-a-Chuill were, in the course of years, successively planted. A number of smaller plantations, including that at the Manse and Allt-Euadh in Scalasaig, were planted by Lord Colonsay about fifty years ago. Such was their tardiness in making headway when plant- ing in the island first began, that it was considered amply satisfactory if the trees grew sufficiently to form good cover. For the first ten years or so they made little progress, and many places had to be planted over and over again. Not WOODS, LOCHS, AND PASTURES 71 until the trees had grown sufficiently to give shelter to one another was the annual growth at all apparent. Protection from animals and shelter from winds were provided at first by dry-stone dykes 5 feet high, extensively built for the purpose. Alder and Sea-Buckthorn were planted along the edges most exposed to the prevailing winds. For wet situations Alder and various species of Poplar were used. Poplars did not last well, and they were also liable to be blown over. Native trees — Birch, Oak, Rowan, etc. — have sprung up in hilly ground where planted trees did not grow. The most commonly planted of deciduous trees are Ash, Elm, Beech, Sycamore, and Alder, mixed with a lesser number of Lime, Horse-Chestnut, Turkey Oak, White Beam, White Willow, etc. The Ash, though one of the fastest growing and most useful of the trees, is liable to decay. The Beech grows well in dry situations, and has not yet shown any signs of unhealthiness. While most of the trees — Ash, Oak, Conifers, etc. — lose their lower branches in dense shade, those of the Beech have, in many cases, retained their vitality arid still produce leaves. This is also the case with the Lime, Chestnut, and perhaps a few other kinds. Of coniferous trees the Larch, Scots Pine, Silver Fir, and Norwegian Spruce have thriven best. The Larch has pro- duced the most valuable timber, but the Silver Firs are the handsomest trees. A few other species — Cluster, Mountain, and Corsican Pines — are also planted. Owing to its tendency to fall over at an early age, the Cluster Pine is often seen with the lower portion of the stem prostrate. Coniferous trees, as a rule, do not take kindly to full exposure to strong winds. Cupressus macrocarpa has not been planted as a forest tree, but it appears suitable for the climate. Rhodo- dendrons, which were first planted for cover where the woods were getting thin about thirty years ago, are now thoroughly at home, and every year hundreds of seedlings are spon- taneously springing up. 72 COLONSAY The average annual rate of growth of all the plantations from the time of planting has not exceeded 6 inches. Trees of Cupressus macrocarpa and Acer pseudoplatanus in good soil and in an exceptionally well - sheltered situation at Kiloran grew at the rate of 1 foot 10 inches per annum for twenty-five years ; but that is quite an exceptionally fast rate of growth for this island. MEASUREMENTS OF SOME OF THE LARGEST TREES IN THE ISLAND. Kind of Tree. Age. Height. Girth of Stem at 5 ft. from the Ground. years. ft. in. ft. in. Ash 90-100 83 0 5 7 ., 70 0 9 2 Elm 78 0 7 6 Beech . 74 0 5 10J Chestnut 69 0 4 11 >f 60 0 7 3 Sycamore Lime 71 6 74 0 7 5 6 4) Alder . 68 0 5 8 Larch . 80-90 71 6 3 2 )i 70 0 4 4 Scots Pine 73 0 4 0 Cluster ,, 62 6 5 3 56 0 8 3 Norway Spruce 58 0 3 8 Silver Fir 67 0 6 7 Picea Webbiana 68 0 5 2 Douglas Fir . 47 0 2 11J Spreading Elm 150 50 0 9 0 Spread of branches 90ft. Cupressus 54 69 0 11 10 Very short bole ; TfldCTOCdTpd girth taken at 2 ft. from the ground. This tree was grown from seed sent by Colonel (afterwards General) Mitchell from India. The records from Skerryvore Lighthouse show that these islands are more subject to stormy weather than any other WOODS, LOCHS, AND PASTURES 73 part of the British coast, and the evil effect on the develop- ment of trees is manifested by the extremely slow annual rate of growth. The island of Tiree, the land lying nearest to Skerry vore, is destitute of trees. In Colonsay the planta- tion of Glaic-a-Chuill, which extends well up to the top of Beinn-a-Sgoltaire, provides a striking example of the retard- ing effects of exposure to winds on the growth of some kinds of trees. The plantation is more than sixty years old, and even in the sheltered hollow at the base of the hill, where the soil is also much better, the trees do not exceed 60 feet in height — an annual growth rate of something less than a foot — while at higher elevations the trees make little or no progress. The following are measurements of four pigmy trees growing near the top of the hill (elevation about 350 feet). They are not taller than the heather among which they grow, but they are still green and living : — Larch (a), height 1 foot 11 inches, girth of stem 2 inches; Larch (b), height 2 feet 2 inches, girth 5| inches, spread of branches 2 feet 9 inches ; Scots Pine, height 1 foot 9 inches, girth 1^ inches ; Spruce, height 1 foot 2 inches. In the shelter of the dry-stone dyke close at hand, Spruce and Larch have grown to the height of the dyke but no higher. The early decay of such trees as the Ash and Elm may sometimes be due to the nature of the ground, as the soil in many places is too shallow to produce heavy timber or to sustain the trees in a healthy, growing condition for long. Often when they are blown over by strong winds the roots lift up all the soil along with them and leave the bare rock exposed. As the result of a moist climate, and one that is detrimental to the health of the trees, we generally find the stems and branches with a luxuriant growth of moss, lichens, etc. Trees with a hard, smooth bark, the Beech in particular, and those that shed their bark, as the Birch, Scots Pine, etc., as well as young trees that are growing rapidly, are sometimes not so much infested with this form of vegeta- 74 COLONSAY tion; but exceptions are not infrequent in every case. Parmelia perlata, Nyl., is the commonest of the lichens. Usnea barbata, Fr., gives the trees a peculiarly hoary aspect. It is sometimes seen growing on the south-west but not on the north-west side of the trunks. Sticta pulmonaria, Ach. (Tree Lungwort) is common on the Ash, Oak, Sycamore, etc. Pannaria plumbea, Lightf., and species of Pertusaria, etc., are less frequently seen. The following are among the commonest of the mosses found growing on the stems and branches : — Eurhynchium myosuroides, Schpr. (on the Birch), Ulota phyllantha, Brid. (Ash), Hypnum cupressiforme, var. resupinatum, Schpr. (White Willow), Hypnum cupressiforme, var. filiforme, Brid. (Larch), Metzgeria furcata, Eaddi, and Brachythecium rutabulum, Bruch and Schpr. Ornamental Trees and Shrubs. — The following list may not be without interest as being among those plants that thrive under the influence of the sea air. It should be remarked, however, that all those noted are growing in sheltered situa- tions in Colonsay House grounds near the centre of the island. Evergreens. — Rhododendrons (R. ponticuni) thrive in various kinds of soils and situations, and in early summer make a pretty display with a profusion of their purple-violet flowers. The first plants, which were introduced about sixty years ago from Ardlussa in Jura, have developed into large specimens 20 feet high and 40 feet through. Seedlings from the woods were planted by their Majesties King Edward VII. and Queen Alexandra in commemoration of their visit to the island on 29th August 1902. The Holly, though growing naturally in exposed situations, produces berries in any quantity only in sheltered places about Kiloran woods. The Common Laurel (Prunus lauro-cerasus) is one of the most valuable evergreens, readily breaking into growth after it is cut back. The Portugal Laurel (P. lusitanicus}, though beautiful in the young state, has not lasted so well as the WOODS, LOCHS, AND PASTURES 75 Common Laurel. The Sweet Bay or Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis), from which the laurel wreaths were made by the ancients, also succeeds well. Escallonia macrantha, intro- duced by Messrs Veitch's collector William Lobb from Chili in 1847, has proved a most desirable acquisition to the local list of evergreens, growing into good-sized bushes and forming large expansive hedges. It combines glossy foliage with a profusion, in early spring, of rose-carmine flowers, and a dense habit of growth. Kegarded on the mainland as a tender shrub (and here, too, plants have been cut down in severe winters), it is found growing in quantity only in the south-western counties of England, where the flowers are sold to visitors at watering-places. Propagation is readily effected by layers. Aucuba japonica (the best evergreen for smoky towns) in its variegated form, Laurustinus (Viburnum Tinus), the Holm or Evergreen Oak (Quercus Ilex), and Mahonia (Berberis Aquifolium) suit the climate. Kinds of Euonymus with variegated leaves make pretty objects in sheltered situations. Cotoneasters do well in exposed positions. Veronica speci'osa, an attractive evergreen from Van Diemen's Land, bearing numerous spikes of mauve- coloured flowers in the depth of winter, and V. salicifolia, now springing up in places spontaneously from seed, are other desirable though old-fashioned subjects. Aralia (Fatsia) japonica has proved hardy in the shrubbery, and its large, glossy leaves make it a valuable evergreen shrub. In 1908 one specimen bloomed profusely, and remained in flower from the end of autumn till the new year. Desfontainea spinosay another of W. Lobb's introductions from Chili (1850), Chamcerops Fortunei, a Chinese Palm, and a species of Yucca which flowered freely in 1907, and is now 12 feet in height with a stem 1| foot in girth (3 feet from the ground), have been growing out of doors for years. After flowering, the head of the Yucca divided into three shoots. Deciduous. — The most showy of those introduced include 76 COLONSAY Lilac, Laburnum, Mock Orange, Weigela, shrubby Spiraeas, and Deutzias. The Snowberry spreads rapidly in sheltered places and is suitable for shady situations, and the Flowering Currant (Ribes sanguineum) has been found growing spon- taneously in the woods. Fuchsia Riccartoni grows into large shrubs, but it has been cut down by frost in severe winters. Hydrangeas are a feature, a row on the east side of a Haw- thorn hedge near the mansion-house producing in an average season hundreds of huge corymbs of blossom in white, pink, and blue shades. The Lemon - scented Verbena (Lippia citriodora) developed stems 3| inches in diameter and 11£ inches in girth. These measurements are of one of a few stems from the same plant, a seventeen years' growth, killed G. — Leana Ghlas ; not uncommon. — May. L. multiflora, b congesta (Lej.). — Goirtean Artair, Leana Ghlas. — June. TTPHACE/E (the Reedmace family) The local representatives of the order are aquatic perennials with long, linear leaves. The leaves of the Bull- rush (Bog-Sheimhin, I.) are used for making chair- bottoms, mats, etc. Sparganium, L. S. erectum, L. — Branched Bur-reed. Seasg Righ, C. Ditch, roadside between Post Office and Hotel. Common. — July. S. minimum, Fr. — Small Bur-reed. Kiloran burn; frequent in pools. — July. LEMNACEJS (the Duckweed family) Floating herbs, consisting of small leaf-like fronds which send out delicate root-like fibres into the water beneath. Lemna, L. L. minor, L. — Lesser Duckweed. (Lus-gun-Mhathair-gun- Athair.) On still pools south of Port Mor. — Per., June. The Lemnae generally are considered to possess the property of purifying the unwholesome air in marshy places. Ducks and geese are fond of all the species. W. ALISMACE.E (the Alisma family) A small group of marsh or aquatic species. The Flowering Rush, Arrowhead, and Water Plantain, British species, are suitable for planting at the margins of ornamental waters. Alisma, L. A. ranunculoides, L. — The Lesser Water Plantain. (Corr- Chopag.) Frequent in marshy situations. — Per., June. 180 COLONSAY (the Naiad family) An order of marsh or aquatic plants, some with floating leaves, others entirely submerged in deep water, occurring in the sea as well as in fresh waters. All the following are perennials. Triglochin, L. T. palustre, L. — Arrow-grass. Barr-a-Mhilltich, C. Boggy and marshy places. — June. Cows are extremely fond of it. W. T. maritimum, L. — Sea Arrow-grass. Not uncommon in the salt-marshes. — May. Potamogeton, L. A considerable genus, difficult to determine, and abundantly represented throughout the island. The plants in the following list were identified by Mr Arthur Bennett, F.L.S. P. natans, L. — Broad Pondweed. Kiloran burn. Common. —July. P. polygonifolius, Pourr. — Oblong Pondweed. Duilleaga- baite. The common kind abundant in running and in stagnant waters, deep and shallow. The leaves were applied to scalding burns for cooling. Also used as an ingredient in certain plasters. Duilleaga-baite-firionn were credited with greater healing properties than other kinds, but the species to which the name applied was not discovered. — July. P. polygonifolius, var. pseudo-fluitans. — Marsh ; head of the Glen. P. Gessnaceasis, Fischer. — Pool of brackish water, Rudha Gheadha. This is a hybrid between P. natans, L., and P. polygonifoUus, Pourr., and occurs in Ireland (A. B.). P. alpinus, Balb. — Burn, Geadhail-na-Crithe. — June. P. heterophyllus, Schreb. — Various-leaved Pondweed. West Loch Fada and Loch Colla. — July. THE FLORA 181 P. heterophyllus, c graminifolius (Fr.). — Loch Sgoltaire. — August. P. nitens, Weber. — West Loch Fada.— July. P. perfoliatus, L. — West Loch Fada. — July. P. pusillus, L. — Slender Pondweed. West Loch Fada; common. — July. P. pusillus, b tenuissimus, Koch. — Middle Loch Fada. (A later examination of specimens leads Mr Bennett to hope that this may turn out to be P. trichoides, Cham.) P. Sturrockii, Ar. Benn. — Loch Sgoltaire and Loch Fada. P. pedinatus, L. — Fennel Pondweed. Pools, western shores. — August. P. jUiformis, Xolte. — Pools, western shores. Ruppia, L. R. maritima, L. — Shore pool, Poll Gorm. — July. R. rostellata, Koch. — Tassel Pondweed. Shore pools, south of Port Mor. — June. Zannichellia, L. Z. palustris, L. — Horned Pondweed. Shore pools, Machrins. — August. Zostera, L. Z. marina, L. — Grasswrack. Bilearach. Abundant, growing where sediment has been deposited in the sea, and frequently washed ashore. — July. The long, grass-like leaves, when dried, are used for packing, and for stuffing mattresses. W. Naias, L. N.flexilis, Rostk. and Schmidt. — Slender Naiad. Found in the three divisions of Loch Fada. — August. "A very in- teresting find. For many years it was only on record from Ireland ; then my late friend Abram Sturrock found it in East Perth, and Dr White in Mid Perth. It is rare in 182 COLONSAY Europe, occurring only in Pomerania, Finland, and Upland, and Scania in Sweden" (A. B.). CYPERACE^: (the Sedge family) Grass-like herbs, usually found in moist situations and at the edges of waters. The leaves are usually stiffer than those of grasses ; the stems are solid, and the sheaths of the leaves closed all round. All the species of the order in- cluded here are perennials. Eleocharis, Br. E. palustris, Koem. and Schult. — Creeping Club-rush. Ditch, Garvard; common. — July. E. uniglumus, Schultes. — One-glumed Spike-rush. Marshy ground above Loch Sgoltaire. — August. E. multicaulis, Sm. — Many-stalked Club-rush. In tufts on stony shore, Loch Fada side. — July. Scirpus, L. S. pauciflorus, Lightf . — Few-flowered Club-rush. Ele- vated moorland between Kilchattan and Machrins. — August. S. azspitosus, L. — Tufted Club-rush ; Deer's Hair. Ciob. Abundant on the moors, often mixed with the heather. It is particularly common in places on the grits. — June. This is the principal food of cattle and sheep in the Highlands in March and till the end of May. W. Locally it is not often eaten by sheep. S. fluitans, L. — Floating Club-rush. Common in streams and in marshy pools of still water. — August. S. filiformis, Savi. — A slender and elegant species, seen only at a muddy corner of Leana-mhor, Garvard. — August. S. setaceus, L. — Bristle Club-rush. Common in moist places in the hill pastures. — July. S. lacustris, L. — Lake Club-rush. Luachair Bhogain. THE FLORA 183 Margins of Loch Fada. — July. It was formerly used in making horse-collars, baskets, etc., in various parts of the country. S. maritimus, L. — Sea Club-rush. Seasg-na-Mara. Com- mon in salt-marshes. — August. Cows eat it ; the roots, dried and ground to powder, have been used instead of flour in times of scarcity. W. S. rufuSy Schrad. — Plentiful in the salt-marshes at Port Mor and the Strand. — May and June. Eriophorum, L. E. vaginatum, L. — Hare's-tail Cotton-grass. Canach-an- t-Sleibh. Usually growing more in tufts and flowering rather earlier than the following species, often at higher elevations. — May. E. angustifolium, Roth. — Common Cotton - grass. An Canach. Abundant in boggy places. The cottony tufts were gathered and used for stuffing pillows and cushions. — June. " S'e bu leaba dhuinn an Luachair S'e bu chluasag dhuinn an Canach." This plant is useful in the island of Skye to support cattle in the earlier part of spring, before other grasses are suffi- ciently groAvn. Pennant's Tour, 1774. E. angustifolium, b. minus, Koch. — Marshy ground, Carnan Eoin, at an elevation of 400 feet. E. angustifoTium, d. elatius, Koch. — Boggy ground, burn- side, Leana Ghlas. — July. Schoenus, L. S. nigricans, L. — Bog-rush. Seimhean C. Frequent in wet hollows through which the surrounding water drains. — June. S. nigricans,/ nanus. — Northern slopes of Beinn-a-Sgoltaire. — June. 184 COLONSAY Cladium, P. Br. C. Mariscus, Br. — Great Twig-rush. Colgroc, I. Grow- ing at the edges of the lochs. — August. Carex, L. A large genus constituting an important part of the herbage of the meadows and hilly pastures of the island. With careful drainage they are displaced by the more nutritious grasses. C. dioica, L. — Ill-drained, spongy ground. — May. C. pulicaris, L. — Flea Sedge. Wet situation, Baile Mhaide; not uncommon. — June. G. arenaria, L. — Sea Sedge ; Sea Matgrass. Taithean. A common plant of the blown sands, and one that greatly assists in binding them. The long, creeping roots were made into cattle-ties. In former times, when cattle were ferried across to the mainland on their way to the markets of the south, it was part of every cattleman's duty to have a certain number of these ties prepared beforehand. — June. C. vulpina, L. — Fox Sedge. At the seaside, Port Mor and other places. — June. C, echinata, Murr. — Little Prickly Sedge. Interstices in rocks, Port Olmsa, and shore turf, Port-an-Obain, Balana- hard, etc. — June. C. remota, L. — Damp gully near shore, south of Kudha •Gheadha; rare. — June. C. leporina, L. — Oval-spiked Sedge. Rather common in moist situations in pastures. — June. (C. ovalis, Good. — A. B.) C. Goodenowii, Gay. — In one or other of its forms the commonest sedge in the island. Frequently found growing in comparatively dry situations on the hill-sides as well as in thoroughly marshy low-lying situations. The most variable of local species, it is also one of the earliest to start into THE FLORA 185 growth, often enticing cattle when other food is scarce into dangerously boggy places where they are sometimes lost. — June. C. Goodenowii, Gay, b juncella (Fr.). — Wet ground, sea- side, Port-an-Tigh-Mhoir. — June. C. Goodenoicii, Gay, tornata, Fr. — Peat-bogs, Biskbuie. — June. C. flacca, Schreb. — Growing in large patches, meadows, Kiskbuie. One of the commonest Sedges. Patches of badly drained land are often plainly indicated by the presence in quantity of this glaucous green -foliaged plant. A very vari- able species. (C. glauca. — A. B.). — June. G. limosa, L — Mud Sedge. Alluvium flats near Loch Colla, and at Lochan-a-Bhraghad. — June and July. G. pilulifera, L. — Pill-headed Sedge. Crevices in rocks above Teampull-a-Ghlinne. — May. C. caryophyllea, Latourr. — Vernal Sedge. Kiloran Bay, and turf, Port-an-Obain, Scalasaig. — May and June. C. pallescens, L. — Pale Sedge. Damp hollow, Coille-mhor natural wood. — June. C. panicea, L. — Pink-leaved Sedge. Not uncommon in moist meadows. — June. C. panicea, b. tumidula, Laestad. — Damp pasture, seaside, north of Port Mor.— June. "A very interesting form found also in Boss" (A. B.). G. syloatica, Huds. — Wood Sedge. Coille-mhor and Kiloran woods. — June. The Laplanders prepare a coarse clothing from this plant. Linn. C. helodes, Link. — Smooth-stalked Beaked Sedge. Grow- ing from interstices in rocks above Lochan-a-Eaonabuilg (C. Icevigata, Sm. — A. B.). C. binervis, Sm. — One of the commonest Sedges, and found growing in a variety of situations, often in tuft-like masses. It is found both at high-water mark and growing on the summits of the hills, and is one of the first plants to start 186 COLONSAY into growth where the heather has been burned. It is also one of the first to become established where the heath-covered turf has been removed. — June. G. distans, L. — Distant Sedge. Shore rocks above Port Mor and Traigh-nam-Barc Bay. — June and July. C.fulva, Host. — Uncultivated hillocks, Garadh Gainmhich, in moist situations ; not uncommon. — June. C. extensa, Good. — Shore rocks, Balaromin-mor. — July. C. extensa, b pumila, And. — Shore rocks at high-water mark, Rudha Gheadha. — June. G. flava, L. — Yellow Sedge. Damp pasture, Kiloran. — June. C. (Ederi, Retz. — Wet ground near Loch Colla, and moist hollow, east coast. — June. G. CEderi, c. cyperoides, Marss. — Recorded by Mr Somer- ville. C. lasiocarpa, Ehrh. — Slender Sedge. Edge of Loch-na- Sguid, and marshy ground, Loch Colla. — May. C. hirta, L. — Hairy Sedge. Moist meadow below Bala- romin-mor farm-house. — July. G. inflata, Huds. — Bottle Sedge. Seasg-uisge. Abundant in the shallow water at the edge of Loch Fada. Used for thatching, and lasting well. — June. (G. ampullacea, Good. -A. B.). GRAMINEAE (the Grass family) One of the largest and most important of the natural orders of plants. In Britain all the species are herbs, but in the tropics some kinds (Bamboos = Guile Fhrangach) grow to the height of tall trees. As forming the chief supply of food for man and forage for animals, Rice (Ris), Indian Corn (Coirce-mor), Millets (Muileud, L), Wheat (Cruith- neachd), Oats (Coirce), Barley (Eorna), Rye (Seagal), are cultivated in all parts of the world. Rye Grasses and other kinds are extensively grown as forage plants (fodar), THE FLORA 187 Sugar (Siucar) is obtained from the sweet sap of various species. The Sugar Cane — for its sugar, rum, molasses — is an important crop of hot climates. Other products of the order are aromatic oils, ornamental seeds (Job's Tears), straw for plaiting and thatching. Macaroni and vermicelli are pre- pared in Italy and Sicily from fine wheat-flour ; " corn-flour " is obtained from Indian Corn. Bamboos are put to an endless variety of uses ; a hardy kind (Metake) thrives, locally. The Pampas Grass and Provence Reed make hand- some specimens for lawns, and many smaller kinds — Feather Grass, Quaking Grass, Agrostis — are used for decorative purposes. Phalaris, L. A small genus, including the Canary Grass, from which the canary seed is obtained, now appearing in the country as a Aveed of cultivation. P. arundinacea, L. — Reed Canary Grass. Not uncommon at sides of ditches. — Per., July. The Gardeners' Garters or Ribbon Grass often seen in gardens is a variegated form. Anthoxanthum, L. A. odoratum, L. — Sweet Vernal Grass. (Mislean.) Abund- ant in well-drained situations. — Per., May. It imparts the characteristic sweet scent to new-mown hay, and is a valuable ingredient in pastures on account of its early growth and for continuing to send up leaves until late in the autumn. With the exception, perhaps, of sheep, domestic animals show no great partiality for it, but where it is abundant it is said to improve the quality of mutton. Alopecurus, L. A. geniculatus, L. — Marsh Foxtail. Fldeag Cham, C. Not uncommon in marshy meadows. — Per., July. A. pratensis, L. — Meadow Foxtail. (Fideag.) Kiloran 188 COLONSAY meadows. — Per., June. One of the best of forage grasses, and well adapted for moist land. It constitutes the greater portion of many of the richer natural pastures of Britain. Phleum, L. P. pratense, L. — Timothy ; Cat's-tail. (Bodan.) Kiloran meadows. — Per., July. An excellent forage plant of which all animals are fond, and a valuable ingredient of pastures. It was introduced from America as a forage crop about 1761, and it was first known as Timothy in South Carolina, having been taken to that State by a Mr Timothy Hansom. It thrives on heavy soils and those of a peaty nature. Agrostis, L. « . A. canina, L. — Brown Bent-grass. Commons and moors. — Per., July. A. alba, L. — Marsh Bent-grass. Feorine, C. Abundant in marshy situations. One of the commonest grasses. — Per., August. A. alba, b. stolonifera (L.). — Fiorin-grass. Bushy ground, Kiloran. — Per., July and August. Recommended for moist soils and irrigated meadows. It affords herbage early in spring and late in autumn. A. alba, c. maritima, Meyer. — Edge of shore pools, Port Mor ; not uncommon in such situations. — July. A. tennis, Sibth. — Fine Bent-grass. Well-drained pasture, Screadan. — Per., July. A suitable species for dry soils; and although cattle are not fond it, sheep are said to relish it, particularly in winter. It will grow on bare, exposed places where more valuable kinds fail. A. tennis, var. pumila. — Growing in very dwarf tufts on bare, rocky sands, Cul-Salach. — July. A. nigra, With. — Garvard. — August. THE FLORA 189 Ammophila, Host. A. arenaria, Link. — Sea Maram ; Matweed. Muran. Planted locally on the blown sands to prevent them shifting. One of the best and most lasting materials used locally for thatching houses. — Per., August. It is recorded that mat and rope making from this species was the only handicraft of the inhabitants of the village of Newborough in Wales about the beginning of the seventeenth century. Aira, L. A. caryophyllea, L. — Silvery Hair-grass. Sandy pasture, upper part of Garadh Gainmhich. — Ann., June. A. prcecox, L. — Early Hair-grass. Common in rather bare rocky places on the hills. — Ann., May. This and the preceding species are soon dried up, and can yield nothing but a little early food for sheep. W. Deschampsia, Beauv. D. ccespitosa, Beauv. — Tufted Hair-grass. Cuiseag Airgid(?). Growing in large tufts or tussocks in wet situations, enabling the collector to pass dry-shod over wet and boggy places. The highly ornamental flowering panicles are used for winter decoration. Its very coarse herbage is seldom eaten by animals. — Per., July. D. flexuosa, Trin. — Waved Hair-grass. Moin-fheur, C. Frequent in rough pastures and meadows, often on peaty soils. — Per., July. The seed of this species is often sub- stituted for the more valuable Yellow Oat-grass. D, flexuosa, b. montana, Hook. fil. — A pretty, purplish- coloured form not uncommon on the hills. — July. Holcus, L. H. mollis, L. — Soft Meadow-grass. Woods, Kiloran ; local. — Per., July. Not unsuitable for sowing in wooded or 190 COLONSAY barren places; and its creeping roots render it useful for binding dry, sandy slopes. H. lanatus, L.— Yorkshire Fog; Woolly Soft Grass. Common on impoverished soils. — Per., July. It should be regarded as a weed rather than a proper ingredient of pastures, and every means used for its extirpation. Stock are not fond of it either in the green state or dried as hay ; the latter being spongy and unfit for horses. A vena, L. Cultivated varieties of Oat have sprung from A. sativa (the Common Oat). The Yellow Oat (A. flavescens, L.) is a desirable constituent in pastures and meadows, being valuable both for grazing and hay. A. pubescens, Huds. — Downy Oat-grass. In the vicinity of the limestone rock, Uragaig. A lime-loving plant, pro- ducing but scanty herbage. — Per., June. A. pratensis, L. — Perennial Oat. Coirce Fiadhain, C. Recorded by Mr Grieve. Arrhenatherum, Beauv. A. elatius, Mert. and Koch. — False Oat-grass. Kiloran meadows. — Per., July. The herbage is said to be bitter and not much relished by cattle. It will grow in shaded woods and plantations. A. elatius, b bulbosum, Presl. — Goin-Fheur. A weed of sandy fields, with knotted roots which, in winter time, are burrowed for and eaten by rabbits. Sieglingia, Bernh. S. decumbens, Bernh. — Decumbent Heath-grass. Hilly pastures, Dun Ghaillionn. — Per., July. THE FLORA 191 Phragmites, Adans. P. communis, Trin. — Common Eeed. Cuilc. Abundant at the edges of the lochs and sometimes used for thatching. Per., August. The plumes are useful for winter decoration, and in France and Italy they are made into dusting-brushes. Cynosurus, L. C. cristatus, L. — Crested Dog's-tail. Coin-Fheur, I. Dry pastures. — Per., June. As it sends up many leaves from the base, it is recommended for lawns which are frequently cut. It forms a close turf, and sheep are said to be less subject to foot-rot in. pastures where it grows, Koeleria, Pers. K. gracilis, Pers. — Shore rocks, Port Mor ; not uncommon on dry banks. — Per., June. Produces but little foliage, which is covered with short, downy hairs. Molinia, Schrank. M. coerulea, Moench. — Purple Melic-grass. Braban, I. Although very abundant in wet meadows and badly drained hill pastures, all kinds of stock reject it if they can get other food. When compelled to take too much of it in hay, they are liable to get into a bad condition. — Per., August. Catabrosa, Beauv. C. aquatica, Beauv. — Water Whorl - grass. At the mouths of freshwater streams on the seashore. — July. C. aquatica, b. littoralis, Parn. — Mouth of small stream, Kiloran Bay sands. — August. Dactylis, L. A genus of a single species. An elegant variegated form is used for edgings in gardens. 192 COLONSAY D. glomerata, L. — Bough Cock's-foot Grass. Common. — Per., July. Remarkable for the rapidity of its growth, it yields an enormous crop of nutritious herbage, growing well in shady, well-drained situations. Briza, L. B. media, L. — Quaking-grass. Crith Fheur. Kiloran meadows. — Per., June. Prized as a decorative grass. Generally found on impoverished soils, and dying out under good cultivation. Poa, L. A large genus, including valuable fodder plants. The Alpine Meadow - grass (P. alpina) thrives at elevations where scarcely any other pasture plant will grow. P. annua, L. — Annual Poa. The commonest British plant, forming the chief ingredient of the grass in the London parks. Flowers all the year round. — Ann. P. nemoralis, L. — Wood Meadow-grass. Local. — Per., July. Of very early growth and suitable for lawns and ornamental grounds in places shaded with trees. P. pratensis, L. — Smooth- stalked Meadow-grass. In rather dry, rocky situations, producing an early herbage. — Per., June. P. trivialis, L. — Rough-stalked Meadow-grass. — Common Per., July. In wet, dry, or shaded situations. A valuable and highly nutritious grass for low-lying pastures. Glycerin, Br. G.fluitans, Br. — Manna Grass; Floating Sweet Grass. Cuiseag Mhilis. Milsean Uisge, C. Sluggish streams and stagnant waters. The plant was formerly well known to children for the honey contained in the flowers. — Per., July. All grazing animals are fond of it, and the seeds are greedily eaten by marsh - fowl and freshwater fish — trout, etc. THE FLORA 193 Semolina was formerly prepared from them. The seeds are small, but very sweet and nourishing. They are collected in several parts of Germany and Poland, and are esteemed as a delicacy in soups and gruels. When ground to meal they make bread very little inferior to that made from wheat. W. G. fluitans, b. triticea, Fr. — Damp hollow, Fang. — July. G. plicata, Fr. — Shallow, stagnant pool in meadow, Bala- romin-mor. — July. G. maritima, Mert. and Koch. — Creeping Sea Meadow- grass. Shore rocks and shore turf, Port Mor. — June. Festuca, L. A widely distributed genus of temperate climates, including some of our most valuable pasture grasses. F. pratensis (Meadow Fescue) is excellent for permanent pasture. It forms a considerable portion of the herbage of the natural pastures on the mainland. F. rottboellioides, Kunth. — Sea Hard-grass. Pier wall and dry sandy situations along the southern shore. — Ann., June. F. bromoides, L. — Sandy ground, upper part of Druim- buidhe, and cultivated fields, Machrins. — Ann., June. (F, scuiroides. — A. B.). F. ovina, L. — Sheep's Fescue. Feur Chaorach, C, This grass constitutes one of the principal ingredients in the herbage of the dry hill pastures. — Per., June. It forms a large proportion of the sheep pastures of the Highlands ; its presence indicating dry conditions, and the consequent adaptability of such situations for sheep. F. rubra, L. — Creeping Fescue. Top of rocks, Port-an- Obain, Balanahard. Common on the sea rocks, and suitable for sowing on dry, sandy soils. — Per., July. F. rubra, g. arenaria, Fr. — Recorded by Mr Somerville. F. elatior, L. — Tall Fescue. Side of Port Lobh burn, Machrins, and gully below Uragaig. — Per., July. Notwith- 13 194 COLONS AY standing its coarseness, cattle are fond of it, and it is recom- mended for sowing in permanent pastures. It grows to a height of 3 to 4 feet. Bromus, L. B. ramosus, Htids. — Smooth Brome-grass. Gully below Tigh Iain Daraich. — Per., August. B. commutatus, Schrad. — One plant, roadside, Kiloran. — Bi., June. B. hordeaceus, L. — Soft Brome. Frequently met with in Kiloran. Of small value for pastures. — July. Br achy podium, Beauv. B. sylvaticum, Eoem. and Schult. — Slender False Brome. Shady situation on large boulders, mouth of New Cave. — Per., July. " It is not liked by domesticated animals, but deer and rabbits eat it." Lolium, L. L. perenne, L. — Perennial Ryegrass. Breoillean, C. Common at the edges of fields. — Per., June. Extensively cultivated as a forage plant, and cultivated in England for this purpose as early as 1677. It is suitable for a great variety of soils, and adapted in an eminent degree for alternate husbandry, producing a large bulk of highly nutritious herbage. L. perenne, c multiftorum (Lam.). — Italian Rye-grass. A garden weed, Kiloran. — June. It was introduced as a forage grass from Hamburg in 1831, and from Italy in 1833. As it is biennial in its nature, this species is more suited for alternate husbandry than for permanent pastures. It grows quickly and luxuriantly, and cattle are very fond of it. The seed that is imported is said to yield an earlier and a heavier crop than what is ripened in this country. THE FLORA 195 Agropyron, J. Gaertn. A. caninum, Beauv. — Bearded Wheat-grass. Growing up through hedge, roadside, Cnoc-an-Arbhair. It shoots out its bright green leaves early in spring. — Per., July. A. repens, Beauv. — Quitch-grass; 'Couch-grass. Feur-a- Phuint, C. Troublesome weed. — Per., July. A. junceum, Beauv. — Shore-wheat. Glas Fheur, C. Edge of sand-banks, Kiloran Bay, and sandy bay, Meall-a-Chuilbh. — Per., August. Lepiurus, Br. L. filiformis, Trin. — Rather a rare British plant of mari- time sands, recorded by Mr Grieve. Nardus, L. N. stricta, L. — Common Nard; Heath Matgrass. Beitean ; Borrach, C. One of the commonest moor grasses. It is wiry, and animals are not fond of it. — Per., June. Div. II. GYMNOSPERMS Gymnosperrns do not, like the Angiosperms, have their ovules enclosed in a seed-vessel (ovary), but develop them directly upon the axis, as in the Yew, or upon capillary leaves, as in the cones of the Pine, Fir, Larch, etc. They are fertilised by the pollen-grains falling directly upon them. Gymnosperrns form a connecting link between the Angio- sperms and the higher Cryptogams. CONIFERS (the Pine family) An extensive order, including many excellent timber trees which also yield resins (pitch, turpentine, tar) and aromatic oils and balsams with medicinal properties. Some — Yew (lubhar), 'Cypress (Sipreis ; Craobh Bhroin) — possess 196 COLONSAY poisonous qualities. Yast forests of conifers alone are to Ibe met with in the Northern Hemisphere. The Mammoth Tree of California attains a height of upwards of 400 feet ; the Kedwood, a close ally, also growing to a great size. The Yellow Pine (Giubhas Buidhe), Pitch Pine (G. Dearg), White Pine (G. Geal), etc., are highly valued for building purposes. Large plantations of Larch (Learag), Fir, Spruce, etc., have been made in this country. Cedar (Seudar), Cypress, Juniper, and other ornamental species are commonly planted in pleasure- grounds. Conifers generally do not thrive in the smoky atmo- sphere of towns, nor, unless well screened, in close proximity to the sea. Juniperus, L. A numerous genus of evergreen shrubs or small trees. The aromatic wood of the American Red Cedar is used in cabinet-making and for lead-pencils. J. communis, L. — Common Juniper. lubhar Beinne. Frequently prostrate and spreading, sometimes to the length of three or four yards. Dead remains of sterns much larger than those now growing are to be seen. The green branches were burned for fumigating houses after infectious diseases. The berries, which take two years to come to maturity, were used for flavouring whisky, as they still are in other countries for flavouring gin. — May. They are diuretic, and yield an oil of medicinal value. J. communis, b. intermedia, Nyman. — Balanahard hills. J. sibirica, Burgsdorf. — Rocky hillocks, Poll Gorm and southern end of Ardskenish, in exposed situations. — May. Pinus, L. Though constituting the bulk of the Coniferse in the Northern Hemisphere, this genus is unknown in the southern half of the globe. Austrian, Corsican, Himalayan, and Stone Pines are among those that are commonly planted. The THE FLORA 197 Cluster and Sea Pines have been planted with success on bare sand-hills of maritime districts in France. P. sylvestris, L. — Norway or Riga Pine ; Scots Fir. Oiubhas. Introduced; one seedling was found growing in Druim Buiteachan under natural conditions, but the seedlings are probably eaten as they grow by rabbits. — May. This species yields Burgundy pitch. The badge of the Clan M'Gregor (Clan Alpin). P. Pinaster, Ait. — Cluster Pine. Introduced. CRYPTOGAMS OR FLOWBRLESS PLANTS Although the members of this group have sexual organs they do not bear flowers with stamens and pistils. Reproduc- tion is brought about by minute cellular bodies called spores. These are produced in abundance, in special structures, on the underside of the fronds of Ferns, in the axils of the leaves of Selaginella, etc. Cryptogams comprise the simplest forms of plant life. They are conveniently divided into two series — Vascular and Cellular. In the former (Ferns, etc.) there is a manifest distinction, as in flowering plants, between stem and leaf, and their tissues include vascular as well as cellular elements; in the latter (Moulds, Algae, etc.), no such distinc- tion between stem and leaf exists, their structure being simply cellular. FILICES (the Fern family) This is by far the most important group of the Vascular Cryptogams, found in abundance in all moist climates. In warm countries some species (Tree-ferns) are arborescent in character ; others are climbers. A few possess active properties. Adiantums (Maiden-hair), Pteris, Asplenium, etc., are largely grown in hothouses for their elegant foliage. The Parsley and Oak (Sgeamh Dharaich, C.) Ferns occur in the Northern Islands, and the Adder's-tongue (Lus-na- 198 COLONSAY Nathrach, C.) in the Outer Hebrides. All the local species have a perennial root-stock. Hyme/iophyllum, Sin. H. tunbridgense, Sm. — Filmy Fern. Kocky mossy banks with a northern exposure; natural woods and plantations, Kiloran. H. peltatwn, Desv. — Recorded by Mr Grieve. Pteris, L. P. aquilina, L. — Brake ; Bracken. ((F)raineach(mhor).) Abundant in woods and pastures in well-drained situations. On the exposed hill-tops it is scarcely a foot in height, but in the sheltered gullies on the East Coast it grows to 7 or 8 feet. It is spreading rapidly and monopolising a good deal of the best of the ground. It is cut and stacked for winter bedding for cattle. Meal is prepared from the thick fleshy roots (rhizomes) in Japan, where the young shoots are also said to be eaten like asparagus. In Monmouthshire the green tops were burned in the summer time and the ashes moulded into balls for washing, before washing soda came into such general use. Blechnum, L. B. Spicant, With.— Hard Fern. ((F)raineach Chruaidh.) Abundant in hilly pastures, under banks, and on rocky slopes facing the north. Aspleniwn, L. A. Adianlum-nigrum, L. — Black Spleenwort. (An Raineach-uaine.) Commonly growing out of crevices and joints in rocks in shady situations. A. marinum, L. — Sea Spleenwort. ((F)raineach-na-Mara.) Abundantly growing out of interstices in the sea locks on the East Coast, sometimes down to high-water mark. A. Trichomanes, L. — Maiden-hair Spleenwort. — Dubh THE FLORA 19$ Chasach; Lus na Seilg, C. Boiled in milk and strained, it was considered a good remedy for coughs and chest ailments. The species is now much more plentiful than it was when regularly collected for medicinal purposes. A. Ruta-muraria, L.— Wall Rue. (Kue Bhallaidh, C.) Not uncommon on old walls. Athyrium, Both. A. Filix-fcemina, Roth. — Lady Fern. Frith-Eaineach. Raineach Mhuire, C. Abundant. Frith-Raineach is often- indiscriminately applied locally to this and various species of Lastraeas. Phyllitis, Hill. P. Scolopendrium, Newm. — Hart's-tongue Fern. Teang'- an-Fheidh. Not uncommon in the rocky gullies of the northern shore and in the vicinity of Iviloran. An infusion of the leaves was used as a remedy for coughs and colds. Gystopteris, Bernh. C. fragilis, Bernh. — Brittle Bladderfern. Friodh Raineach, C. Recorded from the neighbourhood of the New Cave by Messrs Grieve and Miller. Polystichum, Roth. P. aculeatum, Roth.— Prickly Shield Fern. Ibhig, C. An evergreen fern frequently found in the vicinity of the New Cave. P. aculeatum, b lobatum (Presl.). — Rocky slopes facing the north, Driseig. — September. P. angulare, Presl. — Soft Prickly Shield Fern. A few plants. Confirmed by Mr C. Druery, F.L.S. Not previously recorded from the Western Isles, though at one time occur- ring in Arran and adjacent islets. In 1899 plants were dis- covered by the late Mr Somerville in the woods at Skipness 200 COLONSAY in the Kintyre peninsula. The species is not known to have occurred on the mainland north of the Forth and Clyde. South of that line, though by no means common, it has been found in a number of counties, and it is not rare in either England or Ireland. Lastrcea, Presl. L. montana, T. Moore. — Mountain Shield Fern. Crim- Raineach, C. Shady gully, Coille-mhor ; not uncommon. L. Filix-mas, Presl. — Male Fern. Marc-Eaineach, C. Abundant in woods, and often in sunny positions along the banks of streams. In sheltered situations it remains green through the winter. " Its root-stock is used in medicine as a remedy for tape-worm." L. spinulosa, Presl. — Prickly-toothed Buckler Fern. Abundant on mossy and rocky banks facing the north. L. aristata, Rendle and Britten. — Broad Buckler Fern. Common in Kiloran woods. L. cemula, Brackenridge. — Recorded by Mr Grieve. Polypodium, L. P. vulgare, L. — Common Polypody. (Ceis-Chrann.) On old walls and on the mossy trunks of trees. Phegopteris, Presl. P. polypodioides, Fe"e. — Beech Fern. Moist slopes facing the north, Druim Buiteachan and other places. Osmunda, L. 0. regalis, L. — Royal Fern. Righ Raineach. Banks of ditches near Loch Fada. The root-stock was cut up and steeped in water, and the mucilaginous matter from it applied to sprains. Botrychium, Sw. B. lunaria, Sw. — Moonwort. Luan-Lus, C. A few plants on grassy slopes, Creagan. — June. This plant was held in THE FLORA 201 superstitious reverence among Celtic and other nations ; horses were said to lose their shoes where it grew. C. EQUISETACE^E (the Horsetail family) British species are perennial herbs with hollow-jointed stems, marked by longitudinal striae, without true leaves. Equisetum, L. E. ar cense, L. — Corn Horsetail, Earball Capuill, I. A common weed of moist fields. E. sylvaticum, L. — Branched Wood Horsetail. Cuirridin Coille, I. Damp hollow below Allt-ruadh plantation. E. palustre, L. — Marsh Horsetail. Cuirristfn, I. Ditch, roadside, Bealach Gaoithe, and other places. E. limosum, L. — Smooth Naked Horsetail. Loch side. E. limosum, b. fluviatile (L). — Ditch below Screadan. LYCOPODIACE.E (the Club-moss family) Species of the order are widely distributed ; but, judging from fossil remains, they were more abundant and grew to a larger size in the earlier geological periods. Lycopodium, L. L. Selago, L.— Fir Club-moss. Garbhag-an-t-Sle"ibh. A few plants among the hills. Perennial. As several were found uprooted, it is possible that the species is being exterminated by grazing stock. SELAGINELLACE^; (the Selaginella family) A large and interesting tropical order, confined in Britain to a few species. Selaginella, Spring. S. selaginoides, Gray. — Lesser Alpine Clubmoss. Common in moist situations. — Per. 202 COLONSAY CELLULAR CRYPTOGAMS CHARACE, 124. Hedera, 130. Helleborine, 173. Heracleum, 129. Hieracium, 139. Hippoph?e, 164. Holcus, 189. Htunulus 166. Lotus, 113. Luzula, 178. Lychnis, 104. Lycopodiaceae, 201. Lycopodium, 201. Lycopsis, 148. Lycopus, 157. Lysimachia, 144. Lythracese, 124. Elaeagnacese, 164. Elatinacete, 106. Elatine, 106. Eleocharis, 182. Empetraceae, 171. Hydrocotyle, 126. Hymenophyllum, 198. Hypericacese, 106. Hypericum, 106. Hypochseris, 139. Ly thrum, 125. Malaxis, 173. Malva, 107. Malvacese, 107. Matricaria, 136. Empetrum, 171. Medicago, 112. Epilobium, 125. Equisetacese, 201. Equisetum, 201. Ericaceae, 142. Ilex, 110. Illecebraceffi, 160. Inula, 135. Iridacese, 174. Melampyrum, 154. Melissa, 157. Mentha, 156. Menyanthes, 147. Erica, 143. Iris, 174. Mercurialis, 165. Eriophorum, 183. Erodium, 109. Jasione, 141. Mimulus, 151. Molinia, 191. Erophila, 99. Eryngium, 126. Eupatorium, 134. Juncacese, 177. Juncus, 177. Juniperus, 196. Montia, 106. Myosotis, 148. Myrica, 167. Euphorbia, 165. Myricacese, 167. Euphorbiacefe, 165. Kreleria, 191. Myriophyllum, 124. Euphrasia, 152. Myrrhis, 128. Labiates, 155. Fagus, 169. Lamium, 159. Naiadacese, 180. Festuca, 193. Lapsana, 139. Xaias, 181. Filices, 197. Lastrea, 200. Narcissus, 175. Fragaria, 117. Lathyrus, 114. Nardus, 195. Fraxinus, 145. Leguminosfe, 110. Narthecium, 177. INDEX 207 Nitella, 202. Prunella, 158. Solanacese, 149. Nymphseacese, 97. Prunus, 115. Solanum, 150. Pteris, 198. Solidago, 134. CEnanthe, 128. Pyrola, 143. Sonchus, 140. Oleaceae, 145. Pyrus, 120. Sparganium, 179. Onagracete, 125. Spergula, 105. Ononis, 112. Quercus, 169. . Spergularia, 105. Orchidacere, 172. Spinea, 116. Orchis, 173. Radicula, 98. Stachys, 158. Orobanchacese, 154. Radiola, 108. Statice, 143. Orobanche, 154. Ranunculacese, 94. Stellaria, 104. Osmunda, 200. Ranunculus, 28, 33, 95. Suseda, 162. Oxalis, 110. Papaver, 97. Papaveracefe, 97. Parnassia, 122. Raphanus, 102. Rhinanthus, 154. Ribes, 122. Rosa, 118. Rosacese, 115. Tanacetum, 136. Taraxacum, 140. Teucrium, 159. Thalictram, 94. Pedicularis, 153. Peplis, 125. Rubiacese, 131. Rubus, 116. Thlaspi, 101. Thynras, 157. Petasites, 137. Rumex, 163. Tilia, 108. Peucedanum, 129. Phalaris, 187. Ruppia, 181. Ruscus, 176. Tiliaceae, 108. Tolypella, 202. Phegopteris, 200. Phleum, 188. Sagina, 105. Trifolium, 112. Triglochin, 180. Phragmites, 191. Phyllitis, 199. Salicornia, 162. Salix, 170. Trollius, 96. Tussilago, 137. Pimpinella, 127. Salsola, 162. Typhacese, 179. Pinguicula, 155. Sambucus, 130. TJlex, 111. Pinus, 196. Plantaginacese, 159. Plantago, 159 Plumbaginacene, 143. Poa, 192. Polemoniacefe, 148. Samolus, 145 Sanicula, 126. Saxifraga, 121. Saxifragacete, 121. Scabiosa, 132. Schcenus, 183. Ulrmis, 166. Umbelliferse, 125. Urtica, 167. Urticaceaj, 166. Utricularia, 154. Polemonium, 148. Scilla, 176. Vacciniacese, 142. Polygala, 103. Scirpus, 182. Vaccinium, 142. Polygalacere, 103. Scleranthus, 160. Valeriana, 132. Polygonacese, 162. Scrophularia, 151. Valerianacese, 132. Polygonatum, 176. Polygonum, 163. Scrophulariacese, 150. Scutellaria, 158. Valerianella, 132. Verbascum, 151. Polypodium, 200. Polvstichum, 199. Sedum, 123. Selaginella, 201. Veronica, 151. Vicia, 114. Populus, 171. Selaginellacese, 201. Vinca, 146. Portulacere, 106. Senecis, 137. Viola, 102. Potamogeton, 180. Sherardia, 132. Violaceje, 102. Potentilla, 117. Sieglingia, 190. Primula, 144 Silene, 103. Zanichellia, 181. Primulacese, 143. Sisymbrium, 100. Zostera, 181. . 208 INDEX GENERAL (but not including the general matter under Orders and Genera) Accentor, Hedge, 26. Blaeberry 142. Carrion Crow, 23. Agrimony, 33, 134. Blar-an-Deabhaidh,26. Carrot, 129. Alder, 71, 168. Blinks, 106. Catchfly, 103. Alkanet, 148. Bluebell, English, 177. Cat's-ear, 139. All-heal, 132. Scottish, 141. Cat's-tail, 188. Allseed, 108. Boar, Wild, 14. Caves, 20. Alluvium, 60, 65. Bog-bean. 147. Celandine, 96. Alsike, 113. -cotton^ 183. Centaury, 34, 146. Andesite, 57. -myrtle, 167. Chaffinch, 25. Angelica, 129. -orchis, 173. Chaffweed, 145. Angiosperm, 93. -rush, 183. Chapels, 6, 18, 30. Apple, 121. Ardskenish, 31, 61. Bogha-Mhic-a-Bhas- tair, 21. Charlock, 101. Chervil, 128. Arran, 4, 6. Borage, 148. Chestnut, 71. Arrow-grass, 180. Boulder clay, 60, 64. Chickweed, 104, 106. Ash, 69, 145. Bracken, 82, 198. Chives, 176. Aspen, 69, 171. Bramble, 116. Chough, 39. Asphodel, Bog, 177. Brome, 194. j Chrysanthemum, 136; Aster, Sea, 134. Brooklime, 152. ; Cinquefoil, 118. Auk, Great, 14, 15. Brookweed, 145. Clay, 60, 64, 65. Avens, 117. Broom, 112. Cleavers, 131. Broomrape, 20, 154. Climate, 45. Baile-Mhaide, 22. Buckbean, 147. Clover, 83, 112. Balanahard, 22. Buckthorn, Sea, 71, Clubmoss, 201. Balaromin, 36, 59. 164. Club-rush, 28, 182. Balm, 157. Buckwheat, 163. Cock's-foot, 192. Bamboo, 187. Bugle, 22, 159. Cole-seed, 100. Barberry, 96. Bugloss, 148. Coll, Isle of, 4, 67. Barra, Isle of, 4, 67. Bullfinch, 26. Coll Ciotach, 10. Bearberry, 142. Bunting, 26. Coltsfoot, 137. Bedstraw, 131. Burdock, 138. Columbine, 96. Beech, 71, 169. Bur-Marigold, 135. Conglomerates, 57, 64. Beet, 28, 161. Burnet Rose, 119. Conifers, 71, 76, 195. Bent-grass, 188. Bur- reed, 179. Convolvulus, 149. Bindweed, 149. Butcher's-broom, 176. Coot, 17. Birch, 69, 168. Butterbur, 137. Cormorant, 15, 33, 40. Birds, 15, 17, 19, 20, 23, 25, 32, 39. Buttercup, 83, 95. Butterwort, 155. Corncockle, 104. ^> Corncrake, 18. Bishopweed, 127. Bittercress, 99. Buzzard, 23. Cornsalad, 132. Cotton-grass, 183. Bittersweet, 150. Camomile, 135, 136. Couch-grass, 195. Blackbird, 25. Campion, 19, 88, 103. Cow-parsnip, 129. Blackcock, 40. Canary-grass, 187. Cowwheat, 154. Blackthorn, 115. Canna, Isle of, 54, 56. Crane's-bill, 109. Bladderfern, 199. Caraway, 127. Cress, 99, 101. Bladderwort, 154. Carline, 138. Crinan, 64. INDEX 209 Cross, sanctuary, 35. Crow, 23. Crowberry, 171. Elecampane, 135. Elevation and tempera- ture, 49. Garlic, 176. Garvard, 34, 61. Garvelloch Isles, 57. Crowfoot, 95, 96. Elm, 70, 166. Gentian, 34, 147. Cryptogams, 92, 197. Enchanter's Night- Geological formation, Cuckoo, 17, 39. shade, 125. 54. Cuckoo-flower, 99. Erratics, 64. Geranium, 109. Cudweed, 134. Escallonia, 75. Germander, 152. Curlew, 33. Currant, 25, 122. Evergreens (garden), Gigha, Isle of, 54, 57. Gipsywort, 157. Everlasting, 134. Glaciation, 63. Daffodil, 175. Eyebright, 153. Glasswort, 162. Daisy, 134, 136. Globeflower, 96. Dalriadiau, 57. Falcon, 19. Gneiss, 54, 57, 63. Dandelion, 140. Ferns, 197. Gold of Pleasure, 100. Dead-nettle, 159. Fern, Beech, 200. Goldcrest, 26. Deer, Red, 14. Bladder, 199. Golden Plover, 18. Deer's Hair, 61, 182. Buckler, 70, 200. Golden Rod, 134. Deposits, superficial, 65. Filmy, 70, 198. Hard. 198. Golf-links, 16, 29. Goose, Barnacle, 15. Devil's-bit, 132. Hartstongue, 199. Brent, 40. Dewberry, 117. Lady, 199. Grey Lag, 15. Dicotyledons, 93. Male, 200. 1 Gooseberry, 25, 122. Diorite, 63. Moonwort, 20, 200. | Goosefoot, 161. Dipper, 25. Diver, 33. Royal, 200. Shield, 199, 200. Goosegrass, 131. Gorse, 111. Dock, 163. Fescue, 193. Goutweed, 127. Dog-rose, 120. Field-fare, 39. Granite, 56, 64. Dog's-tail, 191. Field-madder, 132. Scalasaig, 59, 63. Donald Ballach, 36. Fig, 48, 166. - Grass of Parnassus, 34, Dotterel, 39. Figwort, 20, 151. 122. Dove, 20, 25. Fiorin, 188. Grasses, 186. Dove's-foot, 109. Fishes, 40, 41, 42. Grasswrack, 181. Dropwort, 28, 128. Flag, Yellow, 174. Greenfinch, 25. Dubh-sith Beag, 9. Flags, 59. Greenshank, 39. Duck, Eider, 15, 32, Flax, 84, 108. Grey Seal, 15. 40. Flora, The, 86. Grey-hen, 40. Pintail, 15. Forget-me-not, 148. Grifs, 57, 62, 70. Tufted, 39. Foxglove, 151. Groundsel, 137. Wild, 17, 32. Fox-sedge, 28, 184. Grouse, 40. Duckweed, 28, 179. Foxtail, 187. Sand, 39. Dunan - nan - Nighean, French Willow, 125. Gulf Stream, 47. 26. Frog Orchis, 174. Guillemot, 19. Dunlin, 39. Fuchsia, 76. Black, 23, 40. Dykes, 71. Fumitory, 98. | Gull, 19', 32, 40. Fungi, 86, 93. Gull-teasers, 33. Eagle, Sea, 40. Furze, 111. Gymnosperms, 195. Earthuut, 127. Eigg, Isle of, 54, 56. Gabbro, 56. Hair-grass, 189. Elder, 4, 130. Gannet, 32, 40. i Hard-grass, 193. 14 210 INDEX Hardheads, 138. Kerrera, Isle of, 57. j Mallard, 17. Harebell, 141. Harris, Isle of, 55. Kestrel, 23. Mallow, 107. Kilchattan, 16, 17, 27. Manna-grass, 192. Hart's-tongue, 20, 199. Kiloran, 17, 24. Marigold, Corn, 136. Hawk, Sparrow, 25. Kiloran Bay, 20. Marsh, 96. Hawkbit, 140. Kintyre, 57. Marshwort, 33, 127. Hawk's-beard, 139. Kitchen-midden, 14. Marten, 14. Hawkweed, 139. Kittiwake, 19. Masterwort, 129. Hawthorn, 69, 121. Hazel, 69, 83, 169. Knapweed, 138. Knawel, 160. Matgrass, 184, 195. Matweed, 189. Heartsease, 102. Knotgrass, 163. May, 121. Heath, 143. Knotweed, 163. Mayweed, 135, 136. Heather, 82, 142. Meadow-grass, 189, 192. Heath-grass, 190. Lady's Bedstraw, 131. Meadow Rue, 33, 94. Heath-rush, 177. Fingers, 113. MeadowSweet, 116. Heath-vetch, 114. Mantle, 118. Measurements of trees, Hedge Mustard, 100. Smock, 99. 72. Helleborine, 88, 173. Lag-na-Birlinn, 22. Medick, 112. Hemlock, 126. Lamb's Lettuce, 132. Melic-grass, 191. Hemp Nettle, 158. Lamprophyre, 63. Mercury, 165. Henbit, 159. Landscape, 56, 66. Merganser, 23. HerbBennet, 117. Lapstones, 15. Merlin, 40. Herb Robert, 109. Lapwing, 17. Mesozoic, 56. Heron, 33. Laurel, 74, 115. Mica-schist, 57. Hill-forts, 23, 27, 29, Lava, 55, 56. Milfoil, 124, 135. 36. Lent Lily, 175. Milkwort, 103. Hogweed, 129. Lewisian, 55, 63. Mimulus, 151. Holly, 74, 110. Lichens, 74, 83, 93. Mint, 156. Holly, Sea, 20, 126. Limestone, 20, 57, 58, Monocotyledons, 172. Holyrood, 13. 59, 62. Moonwort, 20, 200. Honeysuckle, 20, 131. Lime-tree, 71, 108. Moor-cock, 40. Hop, 166. Limpet-hammers, 15. Mosses, 74, 82. Horsetail, 201. Ling, 142. Mountain Ash, 121. Hyacinth, 176. Linseed, 108. Mouse-ear, 104. Hydrangea, 76. Lismore, Isle of, 57, Muck, Isle of, 56. 67. Mud-sedge, 37, 185. Igneous rocks, 59, 63. Loam, 56, 66. Mudstones, 61. lona, 5, 54. Iris, 174. Lobelia, 141. Loch Fyne, 64. Mug wort, 137. Mull, Isle of, 53, 56. Islay, 9, 45, 57. Lochs, 76. Mullein, 151. Ivy, 7, 130. London Pride, 121. Mustard, 101. Loosestrife, 125, 144. Jackdaw, 23, 39. Lousewort, 84, 153. Naiad, Slender, 181. Jacksnipe, 17. Lovage, 19, 22, 128. Narcissus, 175. Jacob's Ladder, 147. Luing, Isle of, 57. Nard, 195. Jointed Rush, 65, 178. Lungwort, 151. Natural woods, 69. Juniper, 196. Nettle, 167. Jura, Isle of, 57, 64, 74. Machrins, 29, 60. Nightjar, 24. Madder, 132. Nipplewort, 139. Kentallenite, 63. Magpie, 39. No'nsuch, 112. INDEX 211 Oak, British, 69, 71, Plants of the pasture, Ribwort, 160. 169. 81. Riskbuie, 38. Evergreen, 75. of the shore, 89. Rock, basaltic, 54. Turkey, 71. Plover, Golden, 18. granitic, 59. Oat -grass, 190. Ring, 40. igneous. 59. 63. Orache, 161. Poa, 192. sedimentary, 58. Oransay, 4, 13, 61. Orchis, 34, 84, 173. Polypody, 200. Pondweed, 180, 181. Rock- cress, 99. Rocket, 99, 101. Osier, 170. Poor Man's Weather- Rockfoil, 37, 122. Otter, 14. Owl, 25. glass, 144. Poplar, 71, 171. Rock-rose, 68. Rocks and Flora, 67. Oyster, 15. Poppy, 97. Rook, 25. Oyster-catcher, 32 Porphyry, 57, 64. Rose, 119. Port Mor, 28. Rose Bay, 125. Palm, 75. Pansy, 102. Preaching-house, 30. Primrose, 144. Roseroot, 19, 22, 123. Rowan, 69, 71, 121. Parsley Piert, 118. Primrose Peerless, 175. Rum, Isle of, 56. Partridge, 40. Puffin, 40. Rush, 177, 178. Pastures, 81-84. Rye-grass, 194. Pea, 114. Quaking-grass, 192. Peach, 48, 115. Quartzite, 57. Sallow, 170. Pearlwort, 105. Quartz-porphyry, 56. Saltwort, 144, 162. Peat, 65. Queen of the Meadows, Samphire, Rock, 45, Pennycress, 101. 116. 87, 128. Pennywort, 126. Quitch-grass, 195. Sand, Blown, 65. Peppermint, 156. Sanderling, 39. Peregrine, 19. Raasay, Isle of, 56. Sandpiper, 32, 40. Periwinkle, 146. Rabbit, 15, 70. Sandspurry, 105. Petrel, Frigate, 39. Radish, 102. Sandstone; 56, 60, 64. Stormy, 40. Ragged Robin, 104. , Sandwort, 105. Phanerogams, 92. Ragwort, 83, 137. Sanicle, 126. Phyllites, 59, 70. Rail, Land, 19. Saxifrage, 122, 127. Pigmy trees, 73. Water, 25. Scabious, 132. Pignut, 127. Pilewort, 96. . Rainfall, 50, 51. Raised beaches, 18, 33, Scalasaig, 16, 59. Scalpay, Isle of, 56. Pimpernel, 144, 145. 65. Scarba, Isle of, 357. Pine, 197. Ramsons, 176. Scenery, 66. Piper's Cave, 19. Ranunculus, 28, 33, 95. Schist, 54. Pipit, 17, 24. Rape, 100. Scorpion-grass, 148. Plain of the Church, 36. Raspberry, 25, 116. Scots Plane, 110. Plantain, 88, 159. Ratf 14. Sculptured stones, 13. Plantations, 70. Plants, lime-loving, 20, Raven, 19. Razorbill, 19. Scurvy-grass, 22, 100, Sea-blite, 162. 90. Redbreast, 25. Holly, 20, 126. local distribution of, Red-rattle, 153. Kale, 45. 88. Redshank, 33. Maram, 189. of dry situations, 84. Redwing, 39. Milkwort, 144. of wet situations, 84. Reed, 191. Pink, 88, 143. of the bogs, 90. Rest-harrow, 112. Purslane, 105. of the lochs, 77. Rhododendrons, 71, 74. Sedge, 4, 184. 212 INDEX Seal, 15, 32. Stitchwort, 104. Tway blade, 173. Seaweed, 43, 44. St John's-wort, 107. Twigrush, 184. Sedge, 184, 186. Stone cists, 28. Seil, Isle of, 57. Stonechat, 24, 39. Uragaig, 20, 66. Self-heal, 158. Stonecrop, 123. Shag, 33. Stonewort, 202. Valerian, 33, 132. Sheep's-bit, 141. Stork's-bill, 34, 109. Greek, 147. Sheldrake, 32. Strawberry, 117. Verbena, Lemon - Shell deposits, 15. Strise, 64. scented, 76. Shell-fish, 42, 43. Sundew, 123. Vernal Grass, 187. Shepherd's Purse, 101. Sunshine, 52. Veronica, 151. Shipwrecks, 28. Swan, 17. Vetch, 83, 113, 114. Shore-weed, 160. Sweet Amber, 106. Violet, 102. -wheat, 195. Briar, 120. Shoveller, 39. Cicely, 128. Wagtail, 26. Shrubs (garden), 74. Gale, 167. Wall Pepper, 123. Silver-weed, 118. Sycamore, 36, 110. Wall-rue, 68, 199. Skua, 32. Syenite, 63. Warbler, 26. Skullcap, 158. Watch-hills, 23. Skye, Isle of, 54, 55. Tansy, 136. Watercress, 98. Skylark, 18. Tare, 114. Water Hen, 25. Slate. 57. Teal, 17. Lily, 97. Sloch'd-dubh-Mhic-a- Temperature, 48, 49. Pepper, 106, 163. Phi, 20. Temperature of the sea, Plantain, 179. Sloe, 115. 53. Purslane, 125. Snapdragon, 151. Temple of the Glen, Wheat-ear, 24. Sneezewort, 135. 34. -grass, 195. Snipe, 17, 40. Tern, 32. Whimbrel, 40. Snowberry, 76, 130. Tertiary, 55, 63. Whin, 111. Soay, Isle of, 56. Thistle, 138. Whitlow - grass, 37, Solan Goose, 32, 40. Thrift, 19, 143. 99. Solomon-seal, 176. Thrush, 25. Whorl-grass, 191. Sorrel, 164. Thyme, 20, 157. Whortleberry, 142. Sow-thistle, 140. Till, 64. Widgeon, 17. Sparrow, 25. Spear-heads, 15. Timothy, 188. Tiree, 5, 55, 73. Willow, 69, 71, 170. Spearmint, 156. Titlark, 17. Willow-herb, 125. Spear-thistle, 138. Titmouse, 25. Winds, 52. Spearwort, 95. Toad-rush, 177. Winter-green, 143. Speedwell, 152. Spikerush, 182. Tormentil, 118. Torridonian, 54, 56, Wishing-well, 23. Woodbine, 70, 131. Spleenwort, 19, 88, 58. Woodcock, 24. 198. Spurge, 165. Tree-creeper, 26. Trees and Shrubs, Woodruff, 131. Woodrush, 178. Spurry, 105. Squill, 37, 176. 74. Trefoil, 113. Wood-sage, 159. Wood-sanicle, 126. Star of the Earth, Trout, 76, 77. AVood-sorrel, 110. 160. Turnip, 100. Woods, natural, 69. Starling, 24. Turnstone, 39. Woolly Soft Grass, 190. Starwort, 104, 124. Tutsan, 106. Woundwort, 158. INDEX 213 Wrack, Shore, 43, 44. Wren, 25. Wych Elm, 166. Yarrow, 135. Yellow Bunting, 26. Yellow Flag, 174. Yellow Rattle, 154 Yorkshire Fog, 190. GAELIC NAMES OF PLANTS, BIEDS, ETC. Aillean, 135. Breac-an-t-sil, 25. Cathair - thalmhainn, Aineach, 178. Breoillean, 194. 135. Aiteodha, 128. Bridein, 32. Cathan, 15. Amsan, 32, 40. Briollan, 153. Ceann - a - sgadain • Aspag, 33. Brisgean, 118. dheirg, 158. -nan-caorach, 158. Cearban, 95. Badan measgan, 155. Broga-cubhaig, 102, Cearc-fhraoich, 40. Bainne muice, 140. 141. -thomain, 40. -bo-gamhnach, 153. -crodh-laoigh, 153. Bru-chorpan, 177. Brudeargan, 25. -uisge, 25. Ceis-chrann, 200. Bal-ar-bodhan, 33, 39. Buidheag, 95. Chritheach, A', 171. Ballan-buidhe, 137. -a-chinn-oir, 26. Ciob, 61, 182. Barr-a'-mhilltich, 180. -an-arbhair, 136. Cirean-coileach, 104. Bealaidh, 112. Buidhean-na-coille, 26. Clachran, 24. Bearnan-bride, 140. Bunabhuachaille, 33. -coille, 39. Beist-dubh, 14. Cloimh-uisge, 202. Beitean, 195. Cailleach - a - chinn - Cluain-lin, 105. Beithe, 168. duibh, 25. Cluaran, 138. Biadh - ur - eunachan, -oidche, 25. Cluas-liath, 139. 110. Cainb-uisge, 134. -luchag, 104. Bigein-an- t-sneachd, Calag, 23, 40. Cnamhach, 39. 26. Cal-broilein, 100. Cnamh-lus, 134. Bilearach, 181. -Pharuig, 121. Cn6-leana, 118. Biolair, 98, 100, 152. -slapach, 161. Cobhair Mhuire, 160. Biolair-ioc, 124. Calg-bhrudhainn, 176. Cobharach, 148. Biotais, 161. Calltuinn, 169. Codalan, 97. Blathan -buidhe - nam - Calman-coille, 25. Coig-bhileach, 118. bo, 113. -creige, 20. Coileach-coille, 24. Bliochan, 177. Camabhil, 135. -dubh, 40. Bliochd fochainn, 141. Canach, 183. -fraoich, 40. Bodan, 188. Caolach-miosa, 108. -ruadh, 40. -coille, 126. Caora-bada-miann, 117. -traghadh, 33. Bog-fhonntan, 140. -caorthainn, 121. Coin-fheur, 191. Bogha-muc, 177. -caothaich, 106. Coinneal Mhuire, 151. Bolachdan, 17. •mhea(ng)lain, 131. Coirce-fiadhain, 190. Bollasgan, 97. Caorag-leana, 104. Colgroc, 184. Borraidh, 148. Caornan, 114. Conasg, 111. Braban, 191. Carbhaidh, 127. Copag, 164. Braoileag, 142. Carran, 105. Copan-an- driuchd, 118. Braonan - a' - mhadaidh Cartal, 156. Corra-meille, 114. ruaidh, 118. -coille, 127. Casraiginn, 163. Cathag, 39. Corr-chopag, 179. Cos-uisge, 128. 214 INDEX Cra-gheadh, 32. Eala, 17. Fuile Thalmhuinn, 96, Crann-Lach, 17. -bhuidhe, 107. Fuinnseach, 125. CrannTeile, 108. Earball-capuill, 201. Cranntachan-an-Deam- Earra-dhreas, 120. Gallan-greanach, 1S7. hain, 165. Eidheann, 130 -mor, 137. Craobh Faidbhile, 169. Eisg, 40, 41 , 42. Garbhag - an - 1 - sleibh. Creachdach, 125. Eoinean, 134. 201. Creachlach-dearg, 109. Eun-beag-a-Stoirm, 40. Garbhan-creige, 123. Creamh, 176. -dubh-a-Sgadain, 19. Gath-buidhe, 158. Crim-raineach, 200. -a-Ghiuirinn; 40. Geadh-glas, 15. Crith-fheur, 192. -glas, 25. -god, 40. Crois-an-Tearmaid, 35. -mor, 40. Gealbhonn, 25. Croman, 23, 40. -a-Phiocaich, 40. Gearr-dhearc, 96. Crotach, 33, 40. Geobhastan, 129. Cuach Pharuig, 159. Faidbhile, 169. Gille-fionndruinn, 146. Cuidheal-mhor, 24. Fail-chuach, 102. Gille-guirmein, 132. Cuilc, 101. Falcair-fiadhain, 144. Giubhas, 197. Cuilionn, 110. Faoileann, 33, 40. Giuran, 129. -traghadh, 126. Farach-dubh, 151. Glas-fheur, 195. Cuirridin-coille, 201. Fasgadair, 32. -leun, 95. Cuiseag-airgid, 189. Feadag, 18. Gleadhran, 154. -mhilis, 192. Feamainn, 43, 44. Gluineach, 163. Cullach, 14. -chireagach, 13, 43. Gobha-dubh- nan - allt, Curran, 126, 129. Feannag, 23, 39. 25. Cuthag. 17. Fearmdagach, 167. Goin-fheur, 190. -nimhneach, 158. Gorra-ghriodhach, 33. Da-bhileach, 173. Fearn, 168. Grafan-nan-clach, 123. Darach, 169. Fearsaideag, 101. Grain-aigein, 96. Deagha-dearg, 146. Feoran Curraigh, 157. Grainnseag, 171. Dearca, 122. Feorine, 188. Groiseid, 122. -collie, 142. Feuran, 176. Grunnasg, 137. Dearna Cridhe, 118. Feur-chaorach, 193. Gudabochd, 17, 40. Dithean, 136. Feur-a-Phuint, 195. Dobhran, 14. Feur-saille, 160. ladh-lus, 149. Draighionn, 115, 121. Dreas-chubhraidh, 120. Fiadh, 14. Fideag, 187. lasg, 40, 41, 42. Ibhig, 199. Dreas-nam-mucag, 119. Fineul Madra, 135. lolaire, 40. Dreas-na-smeur, 116. Mhuire, 100. lotliros, 104. Dreollan, 25. Fionnan-geal, 122. lubhar-beinne, 196. -dorann, 25. Fitheach, 19. Droman, 130. Fliodh, 104. Lacha Cholasacb, 40. Druideag, 24. Flur-na-cubhaig, 99. -mhor, 15, 40. Druidh-lus, 164. Foinne-lus, 165. -riabhach, 17. Dubhan-na-caora, 141. Fothannan, 138. Leamhan, 166. Dubh-chasach, 198. Frafann, 65, 178. Learg, 33, 40. Dubh-fhaoileann ,32,33. (F)raineach, 197-200. Lear-uinnean, 176. Duchas, 130. Fraoch, 142, 143. Leitis Luain, 132. Duilleaga-baite, 180. Friodh-raineach, 199. Liath Chearc, 40. Duilleag-mhaith, 139. Fualactar, 127. -lus, 137. Duil-mhial, 149. Fuath-gorm, 150. -Truisg, 39. INDEX 215 Lili-bhuidhe, 175. Lus-nan-laoch, 123. Neoinean-mor, 136. Lion, 108. -nan-laogh, 122. Neup, 100. Lion na h-Aibhne, 95. •nan-leac, 153. Nuallach, 152. Lionn-luibh, 166. -nan-sgor, 158. Lochal, 152. Lochlannach, 17. -na-peighinn, 126. - na - sith - chainnt, Oidhreag, 116. Oibheall-uisge, 126. Loirean, 40. 125. -traghadh, 32, 40. •riabhach, 153. Peabair-uisge, 95, 96. Lon-dubh, 25. -taghta, 174. Peasair, 114. Luachair, 177. • teang' - an - daimh, Peur, 115, 121. -bhogain, 182. 148. Piobaire, 15. Luan-lus, 200. Pioghaid, 39. Luibh-a-Chait, 134. -a-chneas, 116. Mac-an-dogha, 138. Machall-coille, 117. Plinntrinn, 110. Pluran Cluigeannach, -a-sporain, 101. -monaidh, 12. 141. Chaluim Chille, 107. •uisge, 117. Plur-an-lochain, 141. -na-machrach, 157. Madar, 131. Praiseach Feidh, 101. -na-maclan, 109. Maorach (shell - fish), Mhin, 161. -nan-tri-beann, 147. 42, 43. -na-mara, 162. Lns-a'-bhainne, 103. Maraiche, 100. Preas-deilgneach, 96. -a-Chadail, 97. Marc-raineach, 200. - nan - gorm - dhearc, -a-Chalmain, 96. Meacan-dubh-fiadhain, 117. -a-chorrain, 135. 159. -a-chrom-chinn, 175. -ragaim, 135. Raineach, 197-200. -a-chrubain, 147. -raibhe, 100. Reabhag, 17. -an-Aisige, 175. -ruadh, 102. Righ-raineach, 200. -an-Easbuig, 127. Meoir Mhuire, 113. Rocais, 25. -an-fhogair, 99, 163. Meuran - nan - daoine - Roideagach, 167. -an-t-siabuinn, 103. marbh, 151. Ron, 15. -a-R6s, 104. Meana' Ghurag, 40. Ruaimleadh, 97. -buidhe Bealltainn, Milsean-uisge, 192. Ruanaidh, 164. 96. Minmhear, 126. Ru-beag, 95. - chosgadh • na • fola, Mionnt, 156. Rudh, 109. 135. Mislean, 187. Rue-bhallaidh, 199. ere, 152. Modalan, 155. Ruin, 131. -ghlinn - Bhracadail, -dearg, 153. 165. Moin-fheur, 189. Sadharcan, 17. -gun-mhathair - gun- Morag, 174. Sail-chuach, 102. athair, 179. Mor-fhliodh, 129. Saimbhir, 128. -deathach - thalmh - Moth-urach, 173. Saitse-fiadhaich, 159. uinn, 98. Mucag-fhailm, 120. Samh, 164. -leighis, 165. Muchog, 154. Saor-an-dao, 63. • mhic - righ - Bhreat - Muileann-dubh, 18, 36. Sealbhag, 164. uinn, 157. Muran, 189. Seamrag, 112, 113. -na-caithimh, 131. Mhuire, 144. -na-fearnaich, 123. Naosg, 40. -nan-each, 138. -na-Fraing, 136. -na-malla, 157. Nead-coille, 94. Neanntag-aog, 159. Seangan, 113. Searbhan muc, 141. -na-nieala, 153. Neoinean, 134. Searraiche, 96. •nan-cnapan, 151. -cladaich, 143. Seasg, 184, 185, 186. 216 INDEX Seasg-na-mara, 183. Sioltach, 23. Suth-lair, 117. -righ, 179. Siunas, 128. Seileach, 170. Slan-lus, 160. Tabeist, 15. Seileachan, 125. Slat-oir, 134. Taghan, 14. Seileastair, 174. Smeorach, 25. Taithean, 184. -nan-gobhar, 178. Smeuran, 116. Tarritrean, 18. Seimhean, 183. Snathainn bhathadh, Tarruing-air-eigin, 177. Seircean suir'ich, 131. 124. -gun-taing, 177. Seobhag, 19. Sobhrachan, 144. Teang'-an-fheidh, 199. -bheag-ghlas, 40. Speireag-ghlas, 23. Torc-fiadh, 14. Sgaireag, 19. -ruadh, 25. Torrachas Biadhain, 95. Sgarbh, 15, 33, 40. Spionan Mhuire, 118. Tuirseach, 104. Sgeachag, 121. Spog-na-cuthaig, 102. Sgeallan, 101. Sgitheach, 115. Siabunn-nain-ban-sith, Sporan Buachaille, 101. Sreang bogha, 112. Sriumh-na-laogh, 151. Ubhal, 121. Ucas fiadhain, 107. Uinnseann, 145. 103. Steirneal, 32. Uiseag, 18. Sicamor, 110. Suth-eraobh, 116. tTrach bhallach, 174. PRINTED BY NF.ILL AND CO., LTD., EDI> University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which it wss DOTTOWGQ. DUE 2 WKS FROM DATE RECEIVED NON-RENEWABLE OCT 3 1 21)01 DUE 2 WKS FROM DATE RECEIVED RVICES I/cMeill - 330 Colon say, DA 880