CNt ^i-Fl 2 A "R-C. LIBRARY THE LIBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA m THE COMPLETE BOOK OF THE DOG Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2010 with funding from University of Britisii Columbia Library http://www.archive.org/details/completebookofdoOOIeig The Complete Book of the Dog "By Robert Leighton With Thirty-two Plates GASSELL AND COMPANY, LTD London, New York, Toronto and Melbourne 1922 PREFACE Our British regard for canine companionship has never been more pronounced than it is to-day. The desire to possess a good dog remains one of the most distinctive of our national characteristics. In spite of a temporary suspension of hunt- ing activities, of field sports and of breeding operations during the Great War, the hobb}^ of dog-keeping has retained its original prominence, the number of dogs in our midst has not seriously diminished, and the high quality of our cherished strains has suffered no permanent deterioration ; the fittest have survived to continue their race under the influence of improved scientific methods of mating, breed- ing and rearing. Some 22,000 carefully bred pedigree dogs were registered at the Kennel Club in 1921. During the same year 600 separate dog shows, under Kennel Club rules, were held throughout the United Kingdom, and there are no fewer than 303 specialist clubs exclusively devoted to the welfare of particular canine breeds. This widespread interest in the cultivation of the dog implies an increasing demand for concise and authoritative information on the points and characteristics of the several established breeds and for practical instruction on the manage- ment of the dog in health and disease. In preparing this volume with the purpose of meeting that demand I have aimed at making the work complete in all the essential particulars relating to the dog and his ownership, to the choice and pur- chase of a dog, feeding, kennelling, mating and breeding, and VI Preface such important matters as the rearing of puppies and the proper treatment of dogs in sickness. Each recognized breed is separately considered and de- scribed in detail ; each is represented by a selected example of its ideal type in the portrait of a well-known champion. These portraits are not necessarily of contemporary dogs. If in some instances I have gone back to pre-war days for examples of perfection it is because in my personal judgment there are not at present living such exceptionally good speci- mens as those which I have chosen to illustrate the Mastiff, the Newfoundland, the Great Dane and some few others* which attained supremacy at an earlier date. I desire to acknowledge my obligations to the owners who have favoured me with special photographs of their dogs, to the experts who have helped me with information or advice, and particularly to Mr. Francis Redmond, upon whose con- summate knowledge and experience I have freely drawn. To the Committee of the Kennel Club I am indebted for permission to reprint their Rules as an appendix to this book. ROBERT LEIGHTON CONTENTS Glossary . PASB xi Section I THE DOG AND HIS OWNER CHAPTER 1. The Choice of a Dog .... 2. The Care of the Dog .... 3. Breeding and Whelping .... 4. The Dog's Status, Legal and Social Section II NON-SPORTING AND UTILITY BREEDS 5. The Native British Dogs 6. The Larger Non-Sporting Breeds . 7. Utility Dogs ...... 8. Pastoral Dogs 3 II 31 43 55 72 89 105 Section III HOUNDS, GUN DOGS, AND OTHER SPORTING BREEDS 9. The Larger Sporting Breeds . 10. Coursing and Hunting Dogs 11. Gun Dogs . . . . 12. The Sporting Spaniel 13. The Smaller Sporting Breeds 127 146 159 176 193 viii Contents Section IV THE TERRIERS PAGE 14. The Original Working Terrier . . . 203 15. The Terriers of England .... 208 16. The Terriers of Ireland and of Wales . . 234 17. The Terriers of Scotland .... 248 Section V THE LITTLE DOGS OF LUXURY 18. Oriental Toy Dogs 279 19. Acclimatized Toys 295 20. The Miniature Breeds 308 Section VI CANINE MEDICINE AND SURGERY 21. Diagnosis — Some Simple Remedies . . . 319 22. ABC Guide to Canine Ailments . . . 325 Appendix 365 Index 378 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Mr. Francis Redmond's Champion Fox-terriers D'Orsay's Donna and D'Orsay's Model . . . Frontispiece FACING I'AGE English Mastiff Ch. Minting 5^ Bulldog Ch. Silent Duchess 64 Rough-coated St. Bernard Ch. Lord Montgomery ; Smooth- coated St. Bernard Ch. The Viking; Rough -coated St. Bernard Ch. Cinq Mars 74 Newfoundland Ch. Shelton Viking 80 Dalmatian Ch. Rugby Britamiia ; Great Dane Ch. Viola of Redgrave ......... 84 Champion Schipperkes Royd Oregonian and Royd Ruffian ; Poodles WTiippendell Abricotinette and Ch. Whippendell Negrillon 9^ Chow Ch. Red Craze ; Samoyed Ch. Zahra ... 96 Rough CoUies Laund Lordly and Ch. Laund Logic : Blue Merle Smooth Collie Ch. Laund L3'nne . . 106 Old Enghsh Sheepdogs Ch. Night Raider and Ch. Shepton Hero ; Shetland Sheepdog Wishaw Myrtle . . . 112 Alsatian Wolfdog Kurtson of Dundas .... 120 Bloodhounds Ch. Hengist and Ch. Dark of Brighton ; Champion Team of the Dumfriesshire Otterhounds . 130 Irish Wolfhound Ch. Ballyshannon I34 Highland Deerhound Ch. Noel of Ruritania . . . 138 Borzoi Piostri ; Coursing Greyhound Ch. Fascinating Wa5rs 146 Foxhounds Rambler and Marksman . . . . -154 Pointer Ch. Lunesdale George ; Pomters and Setters at work in the stubble ; English Setter Crossfell . . .162 Flat-coated Retriever Ch. Worsley Bess .... 170 Labradors .......•• I74 List of Illustrations sporting Spaniels ....... Field Spaniel, Basset-hounds, and Dachshund Wire-hair Terrier Ch. Common Scamp of Notts Bull-terrier Bitch Ch. Gvvent Jade .... Bedlington Terriers Ch. Miss Oliver and Cranky Blue Boy Airedale Terriers Ch. Celtic Bouncer and Ch. Roya Pageant Irish Terriers Ch. Paymaster, Erasmic, and Ch. Killamey Sport ..... Welsh Terrier Ch. Brynhir Burglar Sealyham Terriers Ch. Brash Binks and Ch Terriers of Scotland. — I Terriers of Scotland. — II . Pekingese Ch. Chu-erh Tu of Alderboume and Ch. Ah Cum Japanese Monamie Nichette King Charles Spaniels Maltese, Pomeranians, and Pugs French Bulldog, Brussels Griffons, and Yorkshire Terrier Toy Bull-terrier, Italian Greyhounds, and Miniature Poodles lACING I'ACB Brash Fortune 196 214 214 230 230 236 244 244 250 272 280 288 302 308 314 GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL TERMS In writing and speaking of dogs the expert is accustomed to use terms and phrases not commonly understood by the in- experienced. The following glossary includes most of these, alphabetically arranged for reference : Amateur Exhibitors are persons who attach theraselves to certain breeds, and have bred or exhibited them, or intend to do so, as distinct from Pro- fessional Exhibitors, who get together a team of show dogs of any breed which seems advantageous, and take them round from show to show for no other purpose than winning prize-money. Apple-headed imphes that the skull is round instead of flat on the top, as in the Toy Spaniel and the Toy Black-and-tan. Apron. — The friU or long coat below the neck of long-haired dogs. Awards. — The following is the order of Awards at all Dog Shows : First, Second, and Third — money prizes. Reserve — equal to Fourth, and taking the place of Third, should any objection be proved against any of the higher winners. V.H.C. — very highly commended. H.C. — highly com- mended. C. — commended. Bat-eared. — Ears held erect like those of the bat. Prominent in the Bouledogue Fran9ais. Beefy. — Applied to a Bulldog when its hind-quarters are too large and beefy. Belton (Blue-and-lemon). — A word applied to flecked Laverack Setters. Blaze. — A white mark up the face and between the eyes. Scottice : bawsent. Breeching — The tan-coloured hairs at the back of the thighs of a Black- and-tan Terrier, Setter, or Collie. Breeder. — The Breeder is the owner of a bitch at the time of whelping, or a person to whom she is lent, or leased, for breeding purposes. Breeds.--The following is the Kennel Club's Gassitication of Breeds in the Sporting and Non-sporting Divisions : Sporting. — Bloodhounds, Otterhounds, Foxhounds, Harriers, Beagles, Basset-hounds, Dachshunds, Elkhounds, Grej'hoimds, Deer- hounds, Borzois, Irish Wolfhoimds, Whippets, Pointers, Setters, Retrievers, Labradors, Spaniels, Fox-terriers, Irish Terriers, Kerry Blue Terriers, Scottish Terriers, Welsh Terriers, Dandie Dinmont Terriers, Cairn Terriers, Border Terriers. Sealyham Terriers, Skye Terriers, Airedale Terriers, Bedlington Terriers. NON-SPORTIXG. — Bulldogs, Bouledogues Franjais, MastiiTs, Great Danes, Newfovmdlands, St. Bernards, Collies, Old English Sheepdogs, Shetland Sheepdogs, Alsatian Wolfdogs, Dalmatians, Poodles, Bull- terriers, White English Terriers, Black-and-tan Terriers, Toy Spaniels, Japanese, Pekingese, Yorkshire Terriers, Clydesdale Terriers, Maltese, Italian Greyhoimds, Black-and-tan Terriers (Miniature), Lhasa Terriers, Chow Chows, Pomeranians, Pugs, Schipperkes, Griffons Bruxellois, foreign dogs not included in the above list (whether sporting or non-sporting). xii Glossary of Technical Terms Brisket. — The lower part of the body in front of the chest and between the arms. Broken-up Face. — Applied generally to the face of the Bulldog, Pug, and Toy Spaniel, and includes the wrinkle, the receding nose, and deep stop. Brush. — A term applied to a tail that is heavy with hair, as that of the Collie. Butterfly Nose. — A nose that is mottled, or showing spots of skin colour. Button Ear. — An ear that drops over in front, covering the inner cavity, as in the Fox-terrier. Cat Foot. — A short, roimd foot, with the knuckles high and well developed, as in the Greyhound. Challenge Certificate. — An award given to a dog, or bitch, winning the First Prize in the Open Class at a Championship Show. The dog is pre- sumed to have challenged all comers, and its proved merit is acknowledged by the certificate. Championship. — The title " Champion " is given to a dog winning three challeni,'e certificates, under three different judges, at three different shows. Character. — Showing the points of the breed which the spedmen is meant to represent. Cheeky. — Thick in the cheeks. Chest.- — The che.st of a dog is not what many persons speak of as breast, or chest; it extends beneath him, from the brisket to the belly. Chop. — The fore-face of the Bulldog. Cobby. — Well ribbed up ; short and compact in proportion, like a cob horse. Comb Fringe. — The hair that droops or hangs down from the tail of a Setter. Corky. — Compact and alert looking. Couplings. — ^The body of a dog between the limbs. The term denotes the proportionate length of a dog, which is spoken of as being short or long " in the couplings." Cow-hocked. — The hocks turning inward, giving an ungainly appear- ance to the hind-legs. This is a serious fault in a dog, and especially so in the larger breeds. Crest. — The upper arch of a dog's neck, usually applied to sporting dogs. Cropping. — A cruel practice, obsolete in this country since 1895, by which a dog's ears were cut in order to make them stand erect and pointed. Calotte. — The feathery hair on the thighs of a Pekingese, Pomeranian, or Schipperke. Cushion. — The swelling in the upper lips of a Bulldog, or Mastiff, which gives them an appearance of fullness. Dew-claw. — An extra claw and rudimentary toe found occasionally on the inside of the lower portion of the hind-leg of many dogs, especially the St. Bernard and other mountain breeds. They are usually removed in puppyhood. Dewlap. — The loose, pendulous skin under a dog's chin ; prominent in the Bloodhound. Dish-faced. — A depression in the nasal bone which makes the nose higher at the tip than at the stop. Docking. The ciitting or shortening of a dog's tail. Down-faced Wlien the nasal bone inclines downward towards the point of the nose. Draft. -To remove superfluous hounds from a kennel, or pack. Drop Ear, — The same as button ear, but hanging close to the cheeks. Dudley Nose. — A flesh-coloured nose. Elbow. — The joint at the top of the forearm. Elbows Out. — Referred to a dog whose elbows are not close to the body, as in the Bulldog. Glossary of Technical Terms xiii Enter. — To train a sporting clog for his future work. Youug hounds when first put into a pack are said to be entered. Faking, or Trlnunlng. — A common but dishonest practice performed on a dog to make him appear better than he actually is. There are special rules of the Kennel Club which deal with this matter of the preparation of dogs for exhibition. (See Appendix.) Fall. — The loose long overhanging hair over the face of a Yorkshire, Skye, or Clydesdale Terrier. Feather. — The fringe of hair at the back of the legs, as in the Setter and Spaniel. It is also applied to the body all over in long-haired breeds like Collies and Newfoundlands. Felted. — Matted, as applied to coat. Fiddle-beaded. — A long, gaunt, wolfish head, as seen in some Mastiffs. Field Trials. — Competitions instituted for the improvement of sporting dogs — Pointers, Setters, and Spaniels in particular. Retriever trials were run at Vaynol Park in 1871-2, but were discontinued untU 1906, when they were resumed under the auspices of the Kennel Club. Flag. — A term for the tail applied to Setters, Retrievers, etc. Flews. — The chaps, or peudidous lips of the upper jaw. The lips at the inner corners. Frill. — The feather or beautiful mass of hair projecting from the throat of a long-coated dog, notably the Collie and the Setter. Frog Face. — Applied to a Bulldog whose nose is too prominently forward. Grizzle. — An iron-grey colour. Hare-foot. — A long, narrow foot carried well forward. Harlequin. — Mottled, pied, or patchy in colour, as in some of the Great Danes. Haw. — An inner eyelid or membrana nictitana more developed in some dogs than in others. It is usually the colour of the iris, but red in many hounds. It should never be cut unless diseased. Height of a Dog. — The perpendicular measurement from the top of the shoulder-blade to the ground. Hoclts. — The joints between the pasterns and the upper part of the hind-legs. Hound Shows are those consisting exclusively of all, or any, of the following breeds : Foxhounds, Staghounds, Otterhounds, Bloodhounds, Harriers, and Beagles. Huckle Bones. — The tops of the hip joints. In the Money. — A phrase used to indicate that a show dog has taken an award higher than Reserve. Kinl( TaJl. — A tail with a single kink, or break in it. Kissing Spots. — The spots on the cheeks of some Toys and others, as the mole on the cheek of the Pug. Knee. — The joints attaching the fore-pasterns and the forearms. Layback. — The receding nose of a Pug, Bulldog, or Toy Spaniel. Leather. — The skin of the ear, most frequently used in reference to tlie ear of the Bloodhound and Dachshund. Level-Jawed.— Term applied to a dog whose teeth meet evenly, and whose jaws are neither overshot nor undershot. Lippy. — A term applied to the hanging lips of dogs where such should not exist. Lumber. — A superfluity of flesh, heavy and ungainly. Mask. — ^The dark muzzle of the Mastiff, and some other breeds. Merle.— A bluish-grey colour with black intermingled, i.e. marbled. Occiput. — The prominent bone at the back or top of the skull, which gives the dome shape to the head of the Bloodhound. It is from the back of this prominence that the length of the head is measured. Overshot. — Having the front upper teeth projecting over the lower. Pad. — The thickened protuberance on the sole of a dog's foot. xiv Glossary of Technical Terms Pastern. — The lowest section of the leg below the knee, or hock, respectively. Pencilling. — ^The dark lines divided by streaks of tan on the toes of a Black-and-tau Terrier. Pig-Jawed. — An exaggeration of an overshot jaw. Pily. — A peculiar quality of coat consisting of two kinds of hair, the one soft and woolly, the other long and wiry. Plume. — The tail of the Pomeranian. Principal Points ot the Dog: 1. Nose. 7. Neck. 2. Nasal Bone. 8. Shoulder. 3. Stop. 9. Top of the Shoulder. 4. Skull. 10. Elbow. 5. Occiput. Ti. Forearm. 6. Muzzle. 12. Knee. 13. Pastern. 14. Chest. 15. Top of Hip Joint. 16. Hock. 17. Stern. 18. Stifle Joint. Puppy.— A puppy is a dog under twelve months old, dating from and including the date of its birth. Quarantine. — All dogs brought into Great Britain from abroad are com- pelled by law to remain in quarantine for a period of six months. This regulation was instituted for the purpose of excluding animals infected with rabies. Racy. — Slight in build, long in the legs, as the Greyhound and Whippet. Recognized Shows. — Recognized shows are those held under Kennel Club Rules, or otherwise by permission of the Kennel Club Committee. Un- recognized shows are all other shows, and exhibits at these become dis- qualified for entry at any shows held under permission of the Kennel Club, Registration. — Before being exhibited at a recognized show a dog must be registered at the Kennel Club on forms supplied for the purpose, upon which particulars as to the dog's name, pedigree, date of birth and owner- ship are entered. The last transfer of ownersliip of a registered dog since it was last exliibited must be registered anew prior to exhibition by a new owner. {See APPENDIX.) Roach Back. — A back that is arched along the spine, and especially towards the hind-quarters. Rose Ear.— An ear which folds backward, revealing the inner burr of the ear, desirable in the Bulldog, the Greyhound, and the Borzoi. Glossary of Technical Terms xv Septum. — Tlie divisiou between the nostrils. Shelly. — A thin, narrow body, such as that of the Borzoi. Shoulder. — The region of the shoulder - blade, the point from which the height of a dog is measured. Sickle Hocks. — When the hind-legs of a dog show a bend at the hock and are well let down, they are said to have sickle hocks. The sickle hock is a merit in the Greyhoimd and the Collie, and, indeed, in all dogs in which speed is a desideratum. Sickle Tall. — A tail with an upward curve above the level of the back. Snlpy-Jawed.— A dog's muzzle when long, narrow and peaked. Spread. — The width between the arms of the Bulldog. Spring. — Round or well sprung ribs. Stern. — The tail of a sporting dog, particularly of the Foxhound. Stifle. — The joint in a dog's hind-leg next the buttock ; corresponding with the knee jomt in the hvunan leg. Sting. — A tail which tapers to a fine point, as in the Irish Water Spaniel, and the Bedlington terrier. Stop. — The depression just in front of the eyes between the sktill proper and the nasal bone. It is most obvious in Biilldogs, Pugs, and short-faced Spaniels. Throatlness. — Applied to the loose skin about the throat where none should exist, as in the Pointer. Thumb Marks. — The circular black spots on the forelegs of a Black- and-tan Terrier. Timber. — Bone. Trace. — The dark mark down the back of a Pug. Tricolour. — Black, tan, and white. Topknot. — The long fluffy hair on the top of the head of an Irish Water Spaniel, Dandie Dinmont, and Bedhngton. ;, True Arm. — The upper part of the foreleg, contrasted with the lower, which is also known as the forearm. True Thigh. — The upper part of the hind-leg. Tucked-up. — Tucked-up loin as in the Borzoi and Greyhound. Tulip Ear. — An elevated, open ear, as in some of the Toy Terriers. This ear is not desirable in any variety of sporting dog. Turn-up. — The projecting, turned-up chin of a Bulldog. Undershot. — The lower incisor teeth projecting beyond the upper, as in Bulldogs. This deformity in a terrier is a disqualification in the prize- ring. Vent. — The tan-coloured hair under the tail. Walking. — The owners of packs of hounds are in the habit of sending out puppies and young dogs to be nurtured and trained by neighbouring farmers and cottagers, who give them the individual attention which they might not receive in the home kennels. This is called " walking." Wall Eye. — A blue mottled eye, frequently occurring in the Sheepdog. Well Sprung. — Nicely rounded. Wbeaten. — A pale, yellowish colour. Wire-haired. — The harsh, crisp coat in rough-haired terriers. Commonly used to distinguish the long-haired varieties of dogs even when the hair is not rough. Wrinkle. — The loosely folded skin on the forehead of a Bloodhound, St. Bernard, or Bulldog. Section I THE DOG AND HIS OWNER The Complete Book of the Dog CHAPTER I The Choice of a Dog Commercial Value— How to Know a Good Dog— How TO Buy One No home is complete which does not include a dog as an important member of the family. Since prehistoric times, when our savage ancestors welcomed a woolly Utter of wolf- cubs into their cave and tamed them into domesticity, the dog has been man's chosen companion. Any sort of non- descript, cross-bred cur is better than no dog at all. Select breeding and a long pedigree do not confer the attributes of unselfish devotion and honesty of heart which have won for the dog the title of man's firmest friend. The Maligned Mongrel.— No apology for keeping a mongrel is necessary. He is a good dog and a fair dog. Can more be said ? He ought not to be mahgned. I have known many a lovable mongrel. If he is kept clean, well housed and properly fed, and is of decent habit, he may be as true a companion as an aristocratic champion. To the beginner in dog-keeping a mongrel gives useful practice. It is to be remembered, however, that a mongrel costs no less for feeding and attention than a perfect dog that is purely bred, and that a hcence and a railway fare must be paid for the one as for the other. If you want a cheap dog you can get one from any dogs" home." But you must not expect it to be a good one with correct points and a pedigree. You must take Hobson's choice, and in doing so you may find yourself burdened with a very inconvenient housemate who may easily cost you more 3 4 The Complete Book of the Dog than the price of a well-bred one bought from a respectable kennel. All mongrels are, of course, the illegitimate offspring of a misalliance, and as such they are condemned. But there is a kind of dog which, while not being of pure blood, is yet better than the mongrel of unrecognizable parentage ; and that is the half-breed. The best of these is the Lurcher, commonly an intentional cross between the Greyhound and the Retriever, a notably useful dog in the country, combining the speed of one parent with the nose and intelligence of the other. Another good cross is the Retriever-Collie or the Collie-Greyhound. The most popular of all half-breeds, as a watch-dog, is the Bull-Mastiff, who is almost worthy to be called a distinct breed. Any mongrel who has in him an infusion of Airedale Terrier blood is a useful sort, and Irish Terrier blood reveals itself in pluck and good sense. An over- sized Fox-terrier of doubtful parentage is often a very good dog. Mongrels of the large kind descended from the Newfound- land or the St. Bernard are not to be coveted now that we do not use dogs for draught work, and mixed relationships in the small toy varieties are decidedly objectionable and never to be encouraged. Accidents and improper alliances between dogs can only be averted by the utmost care and watchfulness on the part of their responsible owners. But in a well-kept kennel such catastrophes never occur. Choice of a Breed. — You should ask yourself, to begin with, for what especial purpose you want a dog, and determine beforehand what particular breed is best suited for that pur- pose. This is important, because the breed which you own at the first will, in all probability, remain your favourite. " Once a BuUdog man, always a Bulldog man," is almost an axiom. Many experts on particular breeds have become so by the sheer accident of their first acceptance of a pup. People often choose wrongly. I knew a man who began with a St. Bernard bitch. She had a litter of eleven puppies, all of them too pretty to destroy, none of them good enough to sell. There wasn't one that I would have taken as a gift. Two died : the remaining nine grew up, each of them weighing about 200 lb. And thus was that poor man burdened with the responsibility of housing, feeding, exercising and generally The Choice of a Dog looking after ten immense dogs which he could not get rid of at any price, and could not afford to keep ! The size of your dog should, of course, be relative to the accommodation available. To have a Newfoundland or a Great Dane galumphing about a smaU house is an mconvem- ence. A Deerhound or a Borzoi is an appropriate ornament m a baronial hall, but quite out of place in a London flat. For town, you do not want a dog larger than a Collie, a Dalmatian, or a Chow. A terrier or a toy dog is more suitable. Sporting dogs such as the Setter, the Pointer, or the Retriever, which need so much exercise, ought never to be kept in cities, though the lively Cocker Spaniel is a dehghtful companion in a town house The long-haired breeds are not at their best draggling round in wet, muddy streets. For town life, the clean-legged terrier, the BuUdog and the Schipperke are greatly to be pre- ferred.' A dog of any breed is suitable for a suburban home, where there is a garden and perhaps a stableyard for the kennel. . In the country, especially if you have a shooting, a better, a Labrador and a good Spaniel are practically necessary for working the coverts, and on a farm your choice includes the Sheepdog, the Retriever, and a team of sporting terriers. Even if you are not a gunman the Labrador is an ideal dog for a country house. He cannot be exceUed as a companion, and he can do everything that any other dog can do— except be deceitful. Many people, however, prefer the Airedale Temer ; and certainly he has an astonishingly wise brain. The Alsatian Wolfdog is not yet thoroughly acclimatized, and he remams essentially a one-man dog, not to be trusted \rith strangers. It is to be remembered that some breeds are better watch- dogs than others, some more docUe, some safer with children. Some are better at following. The Old English Sheepdog is a good foUower. The Fox-terrier is more inchned to stop and play. In town you want your dog to keep near you. A white dog can be more easily seen in a crowded thoroughfare than one that is the colour of the pavement. You need a long- legged, running dog for following a gig. There are some breeds physicaUy incapable of keeping up a run, others can easily outpace the horse. No dog should be expected to foUow a bicycle on any but a very short journey. It is not necessary 6 The Complete Book of the Dog for a good watch-dog to be a ferocious animal, but the dog set to guard a warehouse or a big mansion ought to be formidable and courageous. What the burglar dreads more than a possible attack is the bark of the alert dog that alarms the household ; and for this business many of the toy breeds and any of the terriers are as good as the Mastiff. The most docile of all dogs is the gentle Bulldog. I have seen a child lying asleep with its hand in a Bulldog's mouth. You cannot easily make a Bulldog lose his temper. Even the Bloodhound is not so dreadful as his name ; but apart from his skill in tracking he is not a useful dog and is singularly unresponsive. There is fashion in dogs ; and if it is your intention to make dog-keeping profitable, you have need to consider the circumstance that some breeds are more marketable than others. If at the moment of writing you possessed every Curly-coated Retriever now alive in the United Kingdom, you could not sell the lot for the price you would have to pay for one good Pekingese. The old black-and-tan Setter has fallen into neglect, both as a show dog and a game-finder. Among sporting Spaniels the Cocker is by far the most promi- nent, and the Sussex and the Clumber are scarce. The Bulldog will always be a national favourite ; and the Collie has never been out of fashion. The plebeian Bull-terrier, which Landseer chose as the typical representative of " Low Life," is now a gentlemanly and respectably owned dog ; but the old white Enghsh Terrier is as obsolete as the hansom cab, and the Black-and-Tan is rare. Fashion is faithful to the Fox-terrier in its two varieties, and it remains the most popular of all dogs, and the most perfectly bred. The Scottish Terrier is being challenged by the Cairn and the terrier of Sealyham ; and the Welsh Terrier has been swept aside by the more mentally alert Airedale. The West Highland White Terrier is less fashionable now than he was a few years ago. The Border Terrier is becoming popular. The Pug yielded position to the Pomeranian, and the Pomeranian has in turn given pride of place to the patrician Pekingese. Many people are deterred from keeping dogs by the belief that the hobby is expensive and that it entails a profitless The Choice of a Dog amount of trouble and anxiety ; but to the true dog-lover the anxiety and trouble are far outbalanced by the pleasures of possession, and as to the expense, that is a matter which can be regulated at will. A luxuriously appointed kennel of valuable dogs may, indeed, become a serious drain upon the owner's banking account, but if managed on business prin- ciples the occupation is capable of yielding a very respectable income. A show dog ought easily to earn his own living : some champions are a source of handsome revenue. Commercial Value of the Dog. — In this connexion it may be explained that there is not only the individual value of the dog itself, which may be very high, but there is his value as a winner of money prizes. The owner of a good terrier at a recent exhibition went away from the show the winner of ;^240 in cash prizes. There were travelling expenses and entrance fees, to be sure ; but as there are dog shows all over the country throughout the year, it will be understood how one single dog can earn an income. Most professional exhibitors take a team to every show they attend. Further than this there are the profits from stud fees and from the sale of puppies. There is a tiny dog now living whose stud fee is advertised at 20 guineas. Puppies are often sold before they are born The pick of a forthcoming litter was sold a little time ago for £200. Occasionally one hears of very high prices being paid for dogs acknowledged to be perfect specimens of their breed. For the St. Bernard Sir Belvidere £1,600 was offered. Plin- limmon was sold for £1,000, the same sum that was paid for the Bulldog Rodney Stone. For the Collies Southport Per- fection and Ormskirk Emerald Mr. Megson willingly paid £1,000 each. The Fox-terriers Go Bang and Meersbrook Bristles were sold for £500 each. Fox-terriers often fetch much more than that, and a common price for a good one is £100. The approximate price of a well-bred Fox-terrier that is not a prizewinner may be put at £25. A prize Bull-terrier might be bought for £100. Size is no criterion of a dog's market value. Mrs. C. Ashton Cross refused £2,000 for her Pekingese Chu-erh, and a Pomeranian that could lie in a soup-plate was priced in the 1 92 1 Kennel Club catalogue at £5,000. Such figures 8 The Complete Book of the Dog seem high beside the £850 which Colonel North paid for the celebrated Greyhound Fullerton. They are sums which only a competent judge with a long purse would dream of paying for an animal whose tenure of active life can hardly be more than eight or ten years, and already the mature dog's value must have been attested by his success in competition. It requires an expert eye to perceive the possibilities of a puppy, and there is always an element of speculative risk for both buyer and seller. Many a pup that has been sold for a song has grown to be a famous champion. At Cruft's Show in 1905 the Bulldog Mahomet was offered for £10. No one was bold enough to buy him, yet eighteen months afterwards he was sold and considered cheap at 1,000 guineas. How to Know a Good Dog. — Before deciding upon your purchase visits should be paid to a few of the important ex- hibitions of dogs. You cannot be expected to know and pick out a good one if you judge only by the casual specimens seen about the streets. You ought to get close up to them and make comparisons amongst all of the same breed that are benched side by side. Go to the ring-side and carefully follow the judging and consider the awards. When you have done this several times you will have received a valuable education on the qualities of dogs. Carefully study the descriptions and standards of points printed in this book, remembering that all these unalterable standards have been drawn up by committees of experts on the various breeds. Examine as many dogs as you can and demonstrate to yourself your ability to choose a good one — the best — in a miscellaneous collection. Then buy your dog. How to Buy a Dog. — The simplest way to get a dog is to have one given to you from a good kennel that is being drafted ; but that is not the usual way, and I am supposing that you want to buy one of your own choosing in the par- ticular breed upon which you have set your fancy. There are highly respectable establishments in London and most big cities where very good specimens can now be bought at a reasonable price. In these days you cannot easily go wrong or be seriously cheated in the buying of a dog. It is not worth a dealer's risk under the rules of the Kennel Club to issue a The Choice of a Dog false pedigree or sell a dog that is faked. But it is well when making a first purchase to take the friendly advice of a dis- interested expert and to be very certain of the dog's parentage and strain as well as its age, soundness, temper and condition. An approved method is to select a dog advertised for sale in the weekly papers devoted to sport and canine matters — The Field, The Lady's Field, Country Life, Our Dogs and The Dog World. A more satisfactory way still, if a dog of distinguished pedigree is desired, is to go direct to a well-known owner of the required breed, or to visit one of the great annual shows held by the Kennel Club, the Ladies' Kennel Association, Cruft's, the Scottish Kennel Club, or the similar events in Manchester and Birmingham, or your local town, and there choose your dog from the benches and buy him at his catalogue price. You can claim him at that price even though during the show his value has been increased by the winning of a challenge certificate and many prizes. Naturally, in estimating his worth you cannot do more than any other judge w'ho examines him. But it is possible for a dog to have won a prize and still have a bad mouth. Some judges overlook this fault when other points are superlative ; but there are very few breeds in which a level mouth is not a very important consideration. I have myself, with regret, had to refuse a championship to many a dog simply because its teeth did not meet with the approved cog-wiieel exactitude. An undershot jaw in a terrier is a serious fault. So be sure to examine the dog's mouth. Go over the animal point by point from stem to stern with the standard of his breed in your mind. See that in each particular he answers to the technical description. Feel his legs to assure yourself of the quality of bone ; feel his back, his ribs and the set of his shoulders. Examine his eyes care- fully for the proper colour and good eyesight ; look to his ears and the formation of his skull. Do not neglect to ex- amine his feet and the quality of his coat, and be sure that in his movements he has the right action. Of one thing you may be perfectly satisfied. If you buy a dog at a show he is certain to be in good condition. He would have no chance in competition if he were not sound, and he would not be admitted into the show at all without passing 10 The Complete Book of the Dog under the scrutiny of the veterinary surgeons who are ap- pointed to examine every dog as it arrives. In most cases show dogs have passed beyond distemper. When a dog catches distemper at a show it is seldom from the benches, which are scrupulously disinfected ; it is seldom from association with the other dogs. The most frequent cause of distemper comes from the visitors to exhibitions who have the habit of caressing the dogs one by one. And if such visitors come from homes where there is a dog ill with distemper the infection is very thoroughly disseminated among the younger dogs ; and especially those in the litter classes. These classes ought not to be permitted. It is not easy in any case for a novice to choose a dog from a nest of undeveloped puppies. I should recommend you to begin with one that is at least ten months old. If you do not want to be troubled with breeding operations and wish simply for a companion, you will be satisfied with a male. But a bitch is to be preferred. Bitches are cleaner in the house and more tractable than dogs. The idea that they are more trouble is a fallacy. The difficulty arises only twice in a twelvemonth for a few days, and if you are watchful there need be no mis- adventure. Some of the all-round judges are also dealers, and they can be commissioned to buy a dog and relieve you of all the trouble of bargaining by correspondence. Their reputation is at stake and they are to be trusted. This matter of buying a dog applies when afterwards you wish to sell one. The most prosperous of dog-keepers, who now makes a handsome income from his kennels, was at one time a novice in the game, hesitating over the purchase of his first puppy. CHAPTER II The Care of the Dog Feeding — Kennel Management — Training and Exercise — Washing, Grooming, and Showing The House-dog. — If only one medium-sized dog, or two or three of the smaller kinds, be kept, there is no imperative need for an outdoor kennel ; although all dogs are better for life in the open air. It is well for a terrier to have the freedom of the house, with easy access to the yard or garden. If he is properly trained and taught regular habits, he need not be at all unclean. A box in a quiet corner, where there is no traffic, and no draught, will serve very well for a bed, or a particular easy chair or sofa may be given up to him as his recognized sleeping place. A mat on the floor is not desirable ; it is too temporary, and he is apt to leave it on the slightest provocation, instead of settling down comfortably for the night. Wliere the rooms are spacious, so big a dog as the Great Dane or the Borzoi can well be accommodated in the daytime, and it is surprising into what small space a Deerhound can curl himself. But these large breeds ought always to be kennelled out of doors. For the toy and delicate breeds it is a good plan to have a dog-room set apart, with a suitable cage or basket kennel for each separate dog. Spratt's toy-dog kennel and run (No. 171), which is mounted on casters, is admirable for this pur- pose. The dog-room should have a fireplace or an [anthracite stove for use in winter or during illness, and, of course, it must be well ventilated and be open to the sunlight. A Parish's cooker is a useful addition to the equipment, especially when a kennel-maid is employed. There should be lockers in which to keep medicines, special foods, toilet requisites and feedingutensils,a water-tap and sink, and a table for grooming. The floor of such a room is best kept clean with Sanitas saw- dust. For bedding, Elastene wood wool is to be recommended. It is absorbent, antiseptic, clean and comfortable. 12 The Complete Book of the Dog SPRATTS PATENT L'^ Toy-Dog Kennel on Casters for Indoors Even delicate toy dogs, however, ought not to be perma- nently lodged within doors, and a dog-room is only complete when it has, as an annexe, a grass plot for playground and free exercise. Next to wholesome and regular food, fresh air and sunshine are the prime necessaries of healthy condition. Too much coddling and pampering is bad for all breeds. The House - dog's Food. — It is to be re- membered that the dog is a domesticated wild animal, descended from the wolf. He is by nature carnivor- ous. We have altered his shape and size, and developed his brain ; but we have not even yet done away with all his wild instincts, and while changing his character and appearance we have not changed the number of his ribs or the shape and capacity of his stomach. The most suitable treatment of the dog is that which nearest approximates to the natural life of his ancestors. Weakness and disease come more frequently from injudicious feeding and housing than from any other cause. Among the free and ownerless pariah dogs of the East, disease is almost unknown. The wild dog feeds upon flesh only, and never touches vege- table food other than an occasional nibble of grass. The dog's stomach is small in proportion to his size, and it ought not to be overloaded with slop food and watery vegetables. Even cow's milk, which so many think an appropriate food for a puppy, does not contain nearly so much nourishment as the natural milk of the bitch. The amount of fatty matter in the milk of a bitch is nearly three times that of cow's milk, and nine times that contained in mare's milk. The nearest approach to it is the milk of the ewe, followed by that of the goat and the sow, and when cow's milk is given it ought always to be strengthened with some other food, such as Lactol, Puppilac or arrowroot. In ordinary homes the house-dog may be fed with meat The Care of the Dog 13 scraps from the kitchen. By all means let the scraps of the dining-table be the foundation of his daily diet — meat, fish, soup, gravy, bread, vegetables, pudding. Sweets and fruit are not good for a dog ; they are liable to disturb his digestion, and should be withheld. Poultry bones, rabbit bones, and even the bones of lamb cutlets ought not to be given, because they splinter and might perforate tlie stomach. Fish bones should be removed, although most dogs are clever at separating them. If the quantity of table scraps is not enough for a meal, add broken dog-biscuit, Rodnim, stale brown bread, or boiled rice. This, kept in a special bowl, should be the dog's chief meal of the day, served to him by preference in the evening, with Rodnim or a dry biscuit for breakfast and a small quan- tity of raw meat at midday, or a bone to gnaw at. A bone, if it has no meat or marrow about it, is not nourishing food ; but it keeps a dog occupied, it is good for his teeth, and the gnawdng promotes salivation, which is good for his digestion. The house-dog ought never to be fed from the table. This is a bad habit. The duty of feeding him ought to be in the hands of one responsible person only. When it is everybody's and nobody's duty he is apt to be neglected at one time and overfed at another. Regularity in feeding is one of the secrets of successful dog keeping. It ought to be one person's duty also to see that he has frequent access to the yard or garden, that he has plenty of fresh, clean drinking water kept in his special metal dish in its recognized place where he can always go to it, plenty of outdoor exercise, and a comfortable bed. Feeding the Toy Dog. — For a puppy that has already got beyond the milk-teeth stage the food need only be a little more carefully prepared and less in quantity than that given to a grown-up dog. Pups are usually greedy, and especially so if they have worms. It is well to watch them eating and to take away the food when you think they have had their fill. For the grown dog one good meal a day is enough. The puppy is better with the quantity divided into two courses. Toy dogs require more deUcate feeding than terriers, but they should always have meat of some sort once a day. It is a mistake to suppose, as many persons do, that meat diet provokes eczema and other skin troubles in Toys. The con- 14 The Complete Book of the Dog trary is the case. No dogs, large or small, can be kept in condition for any length of time without a fair proportion of meat. Wholesome raw meat is always good for a dog, and a little boiled liver given occasionally is a better laxative than aperient medicine. French Bulldogs, Schipperkes, and miniature Poodles may be fed as terriers, but for Pomeranians, Pekingese and the other small breeds scraped raw meat mixed with boiled rice, seasoned with a small pinch of salt, makes a good meal ; or brown bread cut up and moistened with good stock gravy, together with minced, lean, underdone roast beef, with the addition, two or three times a week, of a little well-cooked green vegetable, varied with rice or suet pudding and plain biscuits. Fish may also be given occasionally, and hard- boiled egg is enjoyed. Farinaceous foods do not answer with all pet dogs, and fancy cakes and sweet biscuits often do positive harm. Spratt's pet-dog biscuits, and especially those composed of meat fibrine, or fish and meat, are prepared with care, and are to be recommended. Pet dogs are commonly overfed. Two meals a day should be the maximum, and no coaxing little tit-bits in between. Whatever the food is, it must be in concentrated form, not sloppy, and absolutely wholesome. Needless to say, all feeding and drinking utensils should be kept scrupulously clean. The Yard-dog. — When only one outdoor dog is kept and there is no vacant stable or shed in which he can live, a kennel can be improvised out of a packing case, supported on bricks above the ground, with the entrance properly shielded from the weather. An old square zinc cistern, turned on its side and provided with a door, is a good sub- stitute for the old-fashioned and unsatisfactory barrel-kennel if it is well ventilated and proportionate to the dog's size. No dog should be allowed to live in a kennel in which he cannot turn round at full length, and stand without knocking his head, and the doorway ought to be high enough for him to walk in without stooping. Properly constructed, portable, and well-ventilated kennels for single dogs are not expensive, however, and are greatly to be preferred to any amateurish makeshift. You can see and choose one at almost any dog show. Good ones can be bought from Boulton and Paul, The Care of the Dog 15 Norwich, or from Spratt's, Limited. Let the kennel be placed where it will be sheltered from the wind and have plenty of sunlight. Trees harbour moisture, and damp must be avoided at all costs. It is usually the single dog that suffers most from imperfect accommodation. His kennel is generally too small to admit of a good bed of straw, and if there is no railed-in run attached he must needs be chained up. The dog that is kept on the chain becomes dirty in his habits, unhappy and savage. His chain is often too short and is not provided with swivels to avert kinks. On a sudden alarm, or on the ap- pearance of a trespassing tabby, he will often bound forward at the risk of dislocating his neck. The yard-dog's chain ought always to be fitted with a stop link spring to counteract the effect of the sudden jerk. If it is necessary for a dog to be chained at all, and this is doubtful, the most humane method is to bend a wire rope between two opposite walls or posts about seven feet from the ground. On the rope is threaded a metal ring, to which the free end of the dog's chain is hooked. This enables him to move about on a path limited only by the length of the wire rope, as the sliding ring travels with him. The method may be employed with advantage in the garden for several dogs, a separate rope being used for each. Unfriendly dogs can thus be kept safely apart and still be to some extent at liberty. There is no obvious advantage in keeping a watch-dog on the chain rather than in an enclosed compound. A wire- netting enclosure can easily be constructed at very little ex- pense. For the more powerful dogs the use of wTOught-iron railings is advisable, and these can be procured cheaply from Spratt's or Boulton and Paul's, fitted with gates and revohing troughs for feeding from the outside. Kennels and Kennelling. — There is nothing quite so pitiful as the dog that is left alone all day and night in an un- interesting yard, where he has neither human nor canine Boulton and Paul's Single Dog Kennel i6 The Complete Book of the Dog companionship. A lonely dog never thrives so well as one who has playmates. He becomes physically indolent and mentally gloomy. For the dog himself as well as his owners the pleasures of Ufe are multiplied when there are more than one. Two or three can be kept almost as well as one ; but if breeding operations are contemplated an increase in accom- modation is required and the estabUshment of proper kennels. Kennels vary so much in construction, capacity, and price that a choice can only be determined by the dog-owner's requirements. A loose box makes an admirable kennel for a large dog, and a stable mth its range of stalls can always be Boulton and Paul's No. 108 Kennel converted into a dog-house. If two or three terriers are kept, a small lean-to shed, combining a sleeping-room and a covered run, should serve. A conservatory does admirably, as it can be heated in winter and there is usually a water supply. But nothing is so good as a properly constructed kennel. A popular and convenient form is Spratt's No. 147 ; but I prefer Boulton and Paul's No. 108. This is a perfect kennel so far as it goes, but it ought to have an extended railed-in run in front. It is as good as any I know for the accommodation of a brood bitch and her family. When the number of dogs varies, or when there are disagreements and jealousies, it is well to have several of these portable kennels situated in various paits of the garden or grounds. As a rule it is better to have the runs outside, for dogs love to have an outlook upon the world around them. It is, of course, abso- The Care of the Dog 17 lutely necessary that there should be no overcrowding, and the kennels must always be suited to the size of the breed. Apart from expense, there is no reason why kennels, like racing stables, should not be ornamental as well as sanitary and convenient. The kennels on some sporting estates are often most elaborate affairs. Those at Goodwood are said to have cost £18,000. Gun dogs and packs of hounds ought always to be as well housed as horses and be as regularly groomed and exercised, and an establishment where a large number of valuable prizewinning and stud dogs are kept must be run upon generous principles if it is to succeed. Opinions differ as to the best material for the flooring of kennels and the paving of runs. Asphalt is suitable for either in mild weather, but in summer it becomes uncomfort- ably hot for the feet, unless it is partly composed of cork or strewn with a layer of peat dust or Sanitas sawdust. Flag- stones are cold for winter, as also are tiles and bricks. For terriers, who enjoy burrowing, earth is suitable for the run, and it can be kept free from dirt and buried bones by a rake-over in the morning ; while tufts of grass left round the margins supply the dogs' natural medicine. But there is nothing so sanitary as concrete, from which all dirt can be cleaned away with the hose and brush. The movable sleeping bench must, of course, be of wood, raised a few inches above the floor, with a ledge to keep in the straw or other bedding. Long straw is the best bedding for dogs, and they much prefer it to anything else ; but, failing this, soft shavings do very well. Hay is poor bedding, as it becomes foul and sodden. Old blankets and sacking are an abomination, and should never be used. The best kennels are those which contain nothing but the dog and his straw bed. Wooden floors are open to the objection that they absorb the urine ; but dogs should be taught not to foul their nest, and in any case a frequent disinfecting with a solution of Pearson's or Jeyes' fluid should obviate impurity, while fleas, which take refuge in the dust between the planks, may be dismissed or kept away with a sprinkling of paraflin. Whatever the flooring, scrupulous cleanliness in the kennel is a prime necessity, and the inner walls, if they are not of enamelled tiles, should be frequently hmewashed. It is important, too, that no scraps c i8 The Complete Book of the Dog of rejected food or bones should be left lying about to become putrid or to tempt the visits of rats, which bring fleas. If the dogs do not finish their food when it is served to them, it should be removed until hunger gives appetite for the next meal. Many breeders of the large and thick-coated varieties, such as St. Bernards, Newfoundlands, Old English Sheepdogs, and rough-haired Collies, give their dogs nothing to lie upon but clean bare boards or concrete. The coat is itself a sufficient cushion, but in winter weather straw gives added warmth, and for short-haired dogs something soft is always needed as a bed to protect the hocks from abrasion. Very little straw is necessary. Food in the Kennels. — With regard to feeding, this must be studied in relation to the particular breed. One good meal a day, served in the evening, and a snack in the forenoon, and perhaps a large bone to gnaw at, is enough for any dog. The quantity must be regulated by his size and appetite. For the big breeds, such as Mastiffs, St. Bernards, Great Danes, Wolfhounds, Borzois, Bloodhounds, and Deerhounds, meat of some kind should form half of the staple diet. Dog biscuits and the various hound meals soaked in good broth may be given with advantage. Horseflesh, bullocks' heads, bullocks' tripes and paunches, cleaned and well boiled and mixed with Rodnim or sweet stale bread, previously soaked in cold water, should be given at about seven o'clock in the evening, and, at about noon, three Spratt's biscuits or a little raw or cooked meat. Horseflesh, which is used in many large kennels, is not to be so fully relied upon as ordinary butcher's meat. The horse is never bred for yielding food, and unless it has been killed by accident, or slaughtered because of injury, it dies either of disease or of old age. It is necessary, therefore, to be certain where the horseflesh comes from before it is distributed in the kennels, and it ought always to be promptly and well boiled. For the lesser dogs — Retrievers, Collies, Alsatians, and Airedales — I should be a little more particular perhaps, and look to the household for table scraps and butcher's meat ; but otherwise the difference would only be in quantity, and I should use more dog cakes. Terriers are easily satished and The Care of the Dog 19 do not need a great variety of food. Oatmeal porridge, rice, barley, linseed meal and bone meal may be regarded as occa- sional additions to the usual meat diet and are not necessary when dog cakes are regularly supplied. Well-boiled and well- strained green vegetables such as cabbage, turnip-tops and nettle-tOps are good, mixed with the meat ; potatoes are questionable unless well mixed with good gravy. Of the various advertised foods, many of which are excellent, the choice may be left to those who are fond of experiment or who seek for a convenient substitute for the old-fashioned and wholesome diet of the household. Sickly dogs require invalid's treatment ; but the best course is the simplest, and, given a sound constitution to begin with, any dog ought to thrive if he is properly housed, carefully fed, and gets abundant exercise. Exercise. — This last necessity comes as a natural attendant on hfe in the country. In the shooting or hunting season a sporting dog does not lack exercise ; pastoral dogs get theirs among the sheep, and terriers living in the country where there are vermin to hunt are not likely to be lazy. It is the town dog who is most often neglected. A sober walk at the end of a lead in crowded streets is not enough. The dog should be at liberty, and taught when young to keep to the pavement, and not endanger his Hfe and limb by approach- ing the track of onrushing motor-cars and other vehicles. If he is not led, he will, by his naturally restless habit, do considerably more walking than his master. But it is due to him to give him, as often as possible, a run in some park or field, where he can fetch and carry and thoroughly enjoy himself. If such a morning run is not possible, his owner can still give him exercise in the backyard, or even within doors, using a ball, an old slipper, or a cat-skin tied to a string to induce him to jump up at it. Half an hour of such ex- ercise once a day will keep him in good health. No dog can possibly be in proper condition if he is allowed to spend an indolent life on hearthrug or sofa, and if he is not mentally happy as well as physically comfortable. Material Needs. — Valuable dogs ought not to be allowed to take their exercise beyond the grounds unattended ; they may get into mischief, they may meet with accident, they 20 The Complete Book of the Dog may be stolen, and they cause worry when their absence is prolonged. It is necessary and according to law that dogs when outside the kennel-yard should wear a collar with the owner's name and address engraved on it, or with an identity disk attached. The round leather collars are more comfortable than the flat strap, and they do not drag out the hair. For the toy dogs a harness is sometimes better than the collar. Neither need be worn indoors unless the dog is liable to escape. The collar should be kept quite clean. Unless for a very powerful dog a leather lead or a soft silk cord is better than a chain ; but where permissible, and especially in the country, there should be freedom from all restraint. A dog- whip with a whistle at the end is useful. The whip need not be used for punishment. I had a Deerhound who always came promptly to heel when I cracked my whip. It was better than all whisthng or caUing. In cold or wet weather, or for travelling, a dog-coat is valuable for the short- haired breeds, and one is necessary for a Greyhound or a Whippet. These are all the material needs of a dog out of doors, if the occasional one for a muzzle is excepted. But for the complete equipment of the kennels there are several appliances and requisites, such as feeding and drinking dishes. These should be of iron or tin, enamelled for cleanli- ness, and standing on a firm base so that they cannot be upset. Their size should be proportionate to the amount of food for one meal, and it is well to have a separate dish for each dog. Terriers are naturally quarrelsome creatures, and the weaker and slower eaters never get their full share if all the food is served in one vessel. Give each his own portion and stand by yourself to see fair play. Better still, let each be fed separately in his own kennel. There are grooming materials, too — combs and brushes and hound-gloves. An indoor dog must be kept clean, and groom- ing is almost as important as exercise. Smooth coated or long haired, he should be gone over once a day with the dandy- brush and examined for skin troubles or possible fleas. Training. — Whatever his breed and his working attributes, the dog is mentally very much what liis master and mistress make him. If brought up from puppyhood in one unchanging household, he gets to understand the family's ways and wishes, The Care of the Dog 21 to adapt himself to their personalities and to devote himself to them alone. The mature dog who has already owned many masters has in him something of the individuality of each, to the confusion of his own. The sooner your dog and you come to an understanding of each other the better for both ; and it is well if in the beginning he comes to you with no objectionable habits or vices which must be unlearned. It is easier to school him into a new habit than to cure him of an old one. All sporting men and women know the importance of breaking in Pointers and Setters to their work while they are still young, of training them to quarter their ground and to stand steady when they have discovered game. They would not dream of letting a Labrador run wild up to the age of twelve months and then expect it to be endowed at need with perfect manners and a tender mouth. The education of a gun dog to prompt obedience and quick understanding must begin early if it is to be complete, and lessons in game-finding, pointing, setting, flushing or retrieving ought to be part of the daily routine of puppyhood. The Retriever who has not been taught to enter water at the bidding of sign or word may be found wanting when you require him to fetch a bird from river or lake. Gun-shyness, like a hard mouth, is supposed to be hereditary ; but any puppy can be cured of the fault in half a dozen lessons. There is no more reason why a shooting dog should fear a gun than he fears the crack of a whip. Companionship and sympathy between dog and master are the beginning and end of the whole business, and there is a moral obligation between them which ought never to be strained. Special training is not necessary for our larger breeds of dogs that have no prescribed work. You may encourage your Newfoundland in his natural skill in swimming ; but he has few opportunities of saving life. And what is there that you can teach a Mastiff, or a heavy, slow walking St. Bernard, or even a Great Dane ? The Irish Wolfhound, the Deerhound, and the Borzoi are no longer used in hunting, and in existing conditions the marvellous scenting powers of the Bloodhound are of little practical use. The most useful of our non-sporting dogs is the Collie, whose wisdom is best directed towards work 22 The Complete Book of the Dog among the sheep. But practice in this matter is better than all precept. The newly recognized Alsatian dog is said to be wonderfully clever and teachable, and it may be that under proper training for police-work he will occupy an important position ; but the trainers must necessarily be specialists, and for the present the owner of a dog of this variety can only treat him as a companion. Spaniels, of course, need particular education in work with the gun. But sporting terriers require no special training. You cannot teach them how to attack a badger or to catch rats. Instinct and environment do more than instruction, and if terriers are kept in sound condition and taken to places where they can get upon the scent of a badger or the line of an otter their natural gameness and pluck may be trusted to do the rest. The terrier who lives where rats abound must necessarily become more expert at killing them than one who has never been given an opportunity to test his skill ; and it is the same in hunting the larger vermin. The first principle of all training is obedience ; but obedience can only be ex- pected when you are sure 3'our dog understands what is wanted. There are sporting dogs and there are utility dogs, fool dogs and wise dogs, and it is equally certain that there are many dog lovers who value canine fidehty and affection far more than canine noses and the abihty to hunt. Nevertheless, every dog whose purpose in life is that of being a companion to humans should from the earliest age be taught lessons of obedience and confidence and have its interests and affections aroused for those with whom its lot is cast, A spoilt dog is as trying as a spoilt child, and the dog who at six months old has not learnt to be patient, tractable and clean, has not been brought up in the way it should go. House-training. — If you allow a very young puppy into the house, do not blame it for not having clean habits. How can it know any better ? If you take it out to the yard or garden at frequent intervals, and always after a meal or a drink, it wiU soon learn that out of doors is the right place, and will then go to the door when it wants to get out. Punish- ment for naughtiness may be necessary. But the dog must be taught the difference between right and wrong, and you The Care of the Dog: 23 must be certain of his guilt as well as of his knowledge of his guilt before you punish him. I always remember the late Dr. Gordon Stables coming into a drawing-room with his Newfoundland bitch. Presently a big patch of wet was observed on the carpet. The hostess accused the Newfoundland and demanded punishment. But the doctor shook his head. " I did not see her do it," he said, " and I will not punish her." Afterwards the parlourmaid explained that in carrying in the pot of tea she had spilt some. In any case a scolding is better than a thrashing, and many dogs are more sensitive to being called " naughty " than to being whipped. They are very quick indeed at under- standing the tone in which you speak to them, but they soon get to understand words also if you do not use too many of them and give them always the same meaning. Take the word " garden." This, if always used in the same sense with appropriate action, can be got to mean that the dog is to go outside, unattended, and relieve himself, and then come back. In time, wherever he is, he will learn that " garden " means the same thing, that he is to make himself comfortable. In the same way " kennel " may mean his accustomed corner of the room, as well as his outside sleeping place. Spoken lan- guage to a dog is simply the association of an idea with a par- ticular vocal sound. Do not confuse his ideas by saying " lie down " when you want him to stop barking, or calling out " rats " when there are not any about. You have to consider your dog's mental limitations and refrain from punishing him when he does not understand. It is unwise to punish him when he turns up after a long absence. He cannot keep count of time. Instead of chastising him you should welcome him back by showing your joy at his return. If he could, he would tell you what kept him away. He may have been imprisoned behind some garden gate, trying all the while to escape ; or he may have been innocently visiting a friend. Dogs make strange friendships. I had one who mysteriously disappeared every morning, and it was long before I discovered his friendly habit of accompanying the postman on his round. A frequent cause of a dog's disap- pearance is his discovery of a bitch in season, some distance 24 The Complete Book of the Dog away. You can hardly punish him for following the instinct of inherited habit. The antipathies of dogs are as curious as their friendships. They take unaccountable dislikes. Mr. Taunton had a Mastiff who became fierce in the presence of any butcherman. Many dogs show hatred of men in uniform. Their instincts are often beyond our comprehension. Dogs occasionally reveal traits of their remote wild ancestors. Their habit of scratching back the earth is an in- herited instinct derived from the wild dog's wish to cover his tracks. The burying of bones is another wild trait : so, too, is the very objectionable habit, which is observable in the bitch more often than the dog, of rolling in carrion and other filth. The object of this is probably also connected with the desire of a bitch to disguise her natural scent, which would be followed, with a stronger foreign smell that would cover it. The only way of preventing this habit is to keep a close watch on your dog and see that it does not wander aside. Punish- ment is not much good unless the offender is caught in the act. I was once visiting a friend's kennels when liis bitch came in and vomited in the midst of her puppies. My friend was about to thrash her when I stopped him and explained that the dam was only following her natural instincts, that she was not ill, but had adopted the method of her wild ancestors in thus bringing home food and disgorging it, half-digested, as a meal for her family. I have more than once examined such disgorged food and have always found it perfectly wholesome. On one occasion there was nothing but clean fresh rabbit, very finely masticated and mixed with the gastric juices of digestion. There could be no harm, I think, in allowing the weaning puppies to eat such natural food. To punish their dam for presenting it to them would have been wicked. Dogs are extremely sensitive to rebuke and punishment, and in the larger breeds there is the serious danger of their turning upon their chastiser. They have astonishing memories, and they never forget an injury wilfully inihctcd. They even feel the sting of ridicule : it is not wise to laugh at a dog or to tease one. They resent anything in the form of deceit and unfairness. Be scrupulously just in your dealings with your The Care of the Dog 25 dog. Firm you must be, in commanding obedience, but don't lose your temper. Remember always tliat the dog is an intelligent animal who thinks, and that it is to your ad- vantage that he should think well of you. Washing and Grooming. — The most carefully kept dogs are those that are regularly exhibited in competition at shows. No dog that is not perfectly clean and in good condition can be expected to win prizes. Grooming and conditioning have become a high art which the ordinary dog-owner cannot hope to emulate. But there is no reason why the ordinary dog should be dirt3^ or have fleas, or skin diseases which make him uncomfortable and unsightly. There is no secret process. It all depends upon judicious feeding, regular but not ex- cessive exercise in the open air, clean bedding, decent housing and frequent grooming. A bath is not often necessary. For the larger breeds an occasional s\^im, followed by a good run, is beneficial ; but for the smooth-coated kinds, such as Great Danes and Grey- hounds, a sponging is better than a bath, and nearly all the smooth-haired dogs, including the Bulldog, the Bull-terrier, the Whippet, and the smooth Fox-terrier, can be kept in sweet condition by dry cleaning with the comb, the dandy-brush and the hound-glove, the bare hand or an old towel. Wire- haired dogs ought not to be washed more often than is neces- sary for mere sanitation, and the occasions should be less fre- quent in winter than in summer. Brushing and combing are the best means of keeping the coat and skin clean, and it ought to be done daily. And, while it is being done, you look to the skin to see that there are no signs of eczema, no fleas or ticks, and you examine the eyes, ears, teeth and tongue. Many owners of valuable dogs use the tooth-brush and powdered charcoal for cleaning the dog's teeth. A dog with a foul mouth is very objectionable, and the teeth should be kept perfectly clean and free from tartar. A bite from a clean- mouthed dog may be painful, but it is quite harmless. A foul-mouthed dog cannot possibly be healthy. A properly kept dog is not infested with fleas ; but if by chance he should acquire any, the best way of getting rid of them is to take him outside, well away from the house and kennels, and give him a good peppering over with pyrethrum 26 The Complete Book of the Dog powder, or Keating. This stupefies the insects, which can then be brushed out. The dog should then be well washed with Spratt's dog soap., In the meantime the kennel should be cleaned and afterwa,rds sprayed with paraffin. For long- coated dogs that have fleas the grooming brush should be dipped in a mixture of paraffin and sweet oil, or spirits of camphor. The long-coated breeds, such as the Collie, Bobtail, Skye Terrier and Yorkshire Terrier, as well as the long-haired toy dogs, cannot be kept clean by grooming alone, and an occa- sional bath is necessary, particularly in preparation for a show. But for these breeds a more frequent grooming is usual, and a long-bristled brush which penetrates the coat will keep the hair free from dust and dirt, while the comb and the fingers will disentangle any matting. Scratching is destructive to a dog's coat, and should be rendered unnecessary by keeping the dog healthy and clean. A nervous dog is apt to take fright at sight of the preparations for a bath, so it is well to have everything ready before he is brought to it. Do not make the bath too full. It is deep enough if the water covers his elbows. The water must not be too hot. A few drops of cloudy ammonia will help to remove grease, and a httle disinfectant fluid may be added. The ordinary household soap is not suitable. If you care to make your own preparation, take a pound of soft soap, an ounce of powdered camphor and an ounce of mercurial ointment, well mixed. But Spratt's dog soap is excellent, and for the soft and silky-haired toy dogs there are special prepara- tions, such as Fomo, Lux, and Sherley's Shampoo. Wherever the washing takes place — in the kitchen, the stable-yard or the bathroom — guard against the dog's escaping and roUing himself while he is wet. Put the dog to stand in the water and begin by washing the feet, legs and tail. Then with a jug or cup bathe his back, leaving his head to the last, and apply the soap. The long hair of a Yorkshire, a Skye or a Maltese should be kept straight on the palm of the hand and not rubbed round and round. Leave the lather on the body long enough for the antiseptic properties to work while you are washing the neck. Then rinse thoroughly with plain tepid water, and, with fresh The Care of the Dog 27 water, wash the head, taking care that no soap gets to the dog's eyes or any water goes into his ears. Squeeze the coat with the hands before hfting the dog to the towel, and dry him thoroughly. For small and delicate dogs warmed towels ought to be used, and the drying and subsequent brushing and grooming should be done within the waiTnth of the fire. The brush and comb complete the drying process. The long hair of a Japanese or Maltese if allowed to dry without brushing becomes wavy and crinkled, instead of straight as it ought to be, and the same is the case with the Skye and the York- shire. There are several preparations in the market for promoting the growth of hair on long-coated dogs, but the main thing is to keep the dog clean and healthy, and to let his kennel be cold rather than warm and stuffy. If he has an inflamed skin five minutes' scratching will undo all the effects of pomades and cosmetics. Too much grooming and combing is as bad as too little. All that is needful is to remove the dead hairs and to keep the fast hair free from tangle ; and for this pur- pose perhaps a thorough combing and brushing once a week is enough, if the dog is carefully examined every day and given " a lick and a promise." Most dogs, of course, shed their coat in the spring, or after a serious illness, and scratching at such times does not imply either insects or skin disease, but only the dog's natural effort to get rid of superfluous hair. Show Preparation. — In theory the preparation of a dog for exhibition means only the devotion of a little extra time and care on washing and grooming during a few days before the event. This ought to be all that is necessary if a dog is to be judged by its normal and natural condition. But in practice many exliibitors go to infinite trouble in order to make their dogs look well and show off their salient points. It is quite necessary that a dog should be trained to stand well on the lead and to go through his paces without nervous ex- citement, and to allow himself to be handled and examined by a stranger in the judging ring. If he is a very good specimen of his breed the judge wiU not overlook him ; but many owners add to their dog's attractions by plucking, trimming, rasping and otherwise improving the coat by artificial means. The rules of the Kennel Club are very strict on this matter 28 The Complete Book of the Dog of preparation for show, and it is due to these rules that there is now far less trickery and trimming than was formerly the case. The Poodle is the only breed whose coat may be ob- viously and designedly clipped. Dew-claws may be removed in any breed, but no mechanical or surgical manipulation of any sort is permitted which has for its purpose the alteration of a dog's points and appearance. There must be no cutting, piercing, breaking by force, or any kind of operation tending to destroy the tissue of the ears or alter their natural forma- tion or carriage. Boric acid powder or a similar dry sub- stance may be used on a white dog for cleansing purposes, but it is a strict rule that no dye, colouring, darkening, bleaching or other matter is used for the purpose of altering or improving the colour or markings ; that no preparation, chemical or otherwise, is used for the purpose of altering or improving the texture of the coa.t, and that no oil, greasy or sticky substance is used and remains in the coat during the time of exhibition. Officially, therefore, preparation for show is reduced to the simple process of exhibiting the dog in its best possible condition, very clean and carefully groomed, and carefully trained to be on its best behaviour in the judging ring. Dog Showing. — However much you may believe that you possess the most perfect dog of his breed, you cannot be comfortably certain until you have tested his good qualities in competition with others of his kind. To know that one's dog is a good one, without any obvious fault, is gratifying ; but to sec him win prizes over a whole ring full of other people's good dogs is an experience calculated to swell one's heart with pride. The metliod of entering a dog for competition is not difficult. You discover in the announcements or advertisements in the dog papers that a show is to take place in your neighbourhood, and you apply to the secretary for a schedule. With the schedule you receive several printed forms. One of these is a registration form which you fill up, giving your dog's name, age and breed and the names of its sire and dam. You send this, with a fee of 3s. 6d., to the Secretary of the Kennel Club, 84 Piccadilly, W., and the registration becomes thereafter a sort of birth certificate. Then you study the show schedule and see which classes are available for your particular exhibit, The Care of the Dog 29 and you enter him in those for which he is eUgible according to the printed instructions. There are separate classes for dogs and bitches, novice, hmit, and open, with three prizes in each. But if you are already a member of the specialist club connected with your favourite breed, you are ehgible for many special prizes. There is a club for every breed, and there are many ad- vantages in being a member. If, for example, you are a mem- ber of one of the many Bulldog clubs, you come into friendly relations with other Bulldog enthusiasts, who will help you with advice and suggestions and give you the benefit of their experience. Club trophies and prizes are offered for members of these specialist clubs at most of the important shows, and each club has its chosen delegate on the Kennel Club Council of Representatives. Thus no recognized breed of dog is neglected. Having registered and entered your dog, you ma}' begin to prepare him for the show by careful grooming and training so that he may be at his best and not be stupid and timid when taken on the lead among other dogs. The show secre- tary will send you a numbered tally, corresponding with your bench number in the catalogue, with a pass ticket and other necessaries. If the show is in 3'our own neighbourhood you need have no trouble in reaching it and getting your dog to its bench. On entering, each dog is examined by a veterinary surgeon, but it is very rarely nowadays that any dog is turned back as diseased or unclean. Food and drinking water are pro- vided. During the time of waiting for the judging, you have full opportunity to give your dog the finishing touches which will bring him into exhibition bloom. His fate in the ring depends entirely upon himself in comparison with his com- petitors, aided by your own adroit management of him under the judge's eye. Do not be dismayed if he does not gain a money prize ; his position will be indicated by a Reserve, a Very Highly Commended, a Highly Commended, or a simple Commended, and you will know how he stands. He may even gain a First Prize and a Challenge Certificate, and to gain three such certificates under three different judges is to turn him into a full-blown champion. 30 The Complete Book of the Dog When you become a regular exhibitor at shows and need to travel long distances by rail, you will require a special travelling box for your dog. Properly constructed travelling boxes are an important part of the show dog's equipment. They must be strong and of appropriate size, in shape not too much resembling an ordinary packing case which can be over- turned and stowed by mistake beneath a pile of goods in a railway van. Per- haps the roof-shaped lid is best, as it obviously suggests the proximity of a live dog. The ventilation aper- tures must be properly protected, so that by no possibility can air be excluded. In such a box as the one 'J9^4 figured in this page a valuable dog can A Travelling Box travel hundreds of miles in safety and comfort. Such boxes are convenient when sending a bitch on a visit. No bitch in season should travel in any receptacle that is not properly ventilated, that does not allow her plenty of room in which to move, and that is not absolutely secure. If she is not to be attended on her journey a duplicate key of the padlock should be sent in advance by registered post. Address labels for use on her return journey should on no account be forgotten. CHAPTER III Breeding and Whelping Mating — The Brood Bitch — The Stud Dog — Rearing Puppies The modern practice of dog-breeding in Great Britain has reached a condition which may be esteemed as a science. At no other time, and in no other country, have the various canine types been kept more rigidly distinct or brought to a higher level of perfection. While admitting, however, that the dogs seen at our best contemporary shows are superlative examples of scientific selection, one has yet to acknowledge that the process of breeding for show points has its disadvantages, and that, in the sporting and pastoral varieties more especially, utility is apt to be sacrificed to ornament, and type and stamina to fancy qualities not always relative to the animal's capacities as a worker. The standards of perfection and scales of points laid down by the specialist clubs are usually admirable guides to the uninitiated, but they are often unreasonably arbitrary in their insistence upon certain details of form — generally in the neighbourhood of the head — while they leave the qualities of type and character to look after themselves or to be totally ignored It is necessary to assure the beginner in breeding that points are essentially of far less moment than type and a good con- stitution. The one thing necessary in the cultivation of the dog is to bear in mind the purpose for which he is supposed to be employed, and to aim at adapting or conserving his physique to the best fulfilment of that purpose, remembering that the Greyhound has tucked-up loins to give elasticity and bend to the body in running, that a Terrier is kept small to enable him the better to enter an earth, that a Bulldog is massive and undershot for encounters in the bull-ring, that the Collie's ears are erected to assist him in hearing sounds from 31 32 The Complete Book of the Dog afar, as those of the Bloodhound are pendent, the more readily to detect sounds conning to him along the ground while his head is bent to the trail. Nature has been discriminate in her adaptations of animal forms, and the most perfect dog yet bred is the one which approaches nearest to Nature's wise intention. We can alter the consistency of a dog's coat, we can change its colour : by selective breeding we can make him large or small, cloddy or fine : we can achieve many changes in his outward appearance. But we cannot improve his sight or hearing or his wonderful sense of smell or add to the power of his mysterious instincts. The following chapters will give abundant examples of how the various breeds of the dog have been acquired, manu- factured, improved, resuscitated, and retained. Broadly speaking, two methods have been adopted : The method of introducing an outcross to impart new blood, new strength, new character ; and the method of inbreeding to retain an approved type. An outcross is introduced when the breed operated upon is declining in stamina or is in danger of ex- tinction, or when some new physical or mental quality is desired. New types and eccentricities are hardly wanted, however, and the extreme requirements of an outcross may nowadays be achieved by the simple process of selecting in- dividuals from accredited strains of the same breed, mating a bitch which lacks the required points with a dog in whose family they are prominently and consistently present. Inbreeding is the reverse of outcrossing. It is the practice of mating animals closely related to each other, and it is, within limits, an entirely justifiable means of preserving and intensifying family characteristics. It is a law in zoology that an animal cannot transmit a quality which it does not itself innately possess, or which none of its progenitors has ever possessed. By mating a dog and a bitch of the same family, therefore, you concentrate and enhance the uniform inheritable qualities into one line instead of two, and you reduce the number of possibly heterogeneous ancestors by exactly a half, right back to the very beginning. There is no surer way of maintaining uniformity of type, and an examina- tion of the extended pedigree of almost any famous dog will show how commonly inbreeding is practised. A notable Breeding and Whelping 33 example was that of the celebrated Italian Greyhound Gowan's Billy, whose grandsire, great-grandsire, g.-g.-grand- sire, g.-g.-g.-grandsire, and g.-g.-g.-g. -grandsire were all one and the same dog ! The most prominent dog living at this moment is the son of his great-grandsire on both sides. Inbreeding is certainly advantageous when managed with judgment and discreet selection, but it has its disadvantages also, for it is to be remembered that faults and blemishes are inherited as well as merits, and that the faults have a way of asserting themselves with annoying persistency. Further- more, breeding between animals closely allied in parentage is prone to lead to degeneracy, physical weakness, and mental stupidity, while impotence and sterility are frequent concomi- tants, and none but experienced breeders should attempt so hazardous an experiment. Observation has proved that the union of father with daughter and mother with son is prefer- able to an alUance between brother and sister. Perhaps the best union is that between cousins. For the preservation of general type, however, it ought to be sufficient to keep to one strain and select from that strain members who, while ex- liibiting similar characteristics, are not actually too closely allied in consanguinity. To move perpetually from one strain to another is only to court an undesirable confusion of type. The Brood Bitch. — I have already stated that in founding a kennel it is advisable to begin with the possession of a bitch. If it is intended to breed by her, she should be very carefully chosen and proved to be free from any serious fault or pre- disposition to disease. Not only should her written pedigree be scrupulously scrutinized, but her own constitution and that of her parents on both sides should be minutely inquired into, and remember that while like niay beget like, the inevitable tendency is to throw back to former generations. A white Bull-terrier bitch, for instance, mated with a dog equally white, may have one or more puppies marked with brown or brindle patches. Research would probably show that on some occasion many generations back, one of his or her an- cestors had brindle or brown colouring. But the old-estab- lished breeds seldom reveal a serious throwback, and one of the indications of a pure strain is that it breeds true to type. Our domesticated dogs lead artificial lives, and we artificially 34 The Complete Book of the Dog restrict and direct their breeding. It is therefore not to be wondered at if our experiments often result in sterility. Mr. Theo Marples has stated that probably 40 per cent, of prize- bred bitches which visit prize-bred dogs are unproductive. In the wild state, brood bitches would exercise the freedom of natural selection, but we do not permit them to do that. Still, the instinct to follow their own choice remains strong, and most dog-owners have experienced difficulty with what is called a " shy breeder." It may be of either sex, but usually it is a bitch who, refusing to ally herself with a dog that we have chosen, yet exhibits a mad desire for one with whom we would not on any account have her mated. I am strongly of opinion that this enforced and " loveless " mating is accountable for the small and feeble litters which frequently occur in many of our aristocratic breeds. To send a brood bitch who is in temporarily delicate condition, boxed up in a railway van on a long journey, and to assist her immediately on her arrival to a strange and possibly abhorrent dog in strange surroundings cannot be good ; yet this is very frequently done. The chances of a good and healthy litter are immeasurably increased when the dog she is to marry is already known to her, when incHnation is added to happy opportunity, and there is a possibility of natural wooing and consent. From the eugenic point of view, the instinctive preferences of a bitch ought to some extent to be considered. Give her the leisurely choice of one out of three approved mates and she will probably select by instinct the one best suited to be the sire of her puppies. But force her to an instant alliance with an absolute stranger, and the resulting Utter, if there is any result at all, is likely to be a disappointment. A bitch comes into season for breeding twice in a year ; the first time when she is reaching maturity, usually at the age of from seven to ten months. The first observable sign is her general uneasiness and her greater frequency in urinat- ing. This latter is perhaps a survival from the wild state when a bitch coming into the condition " blazed " her trail for dogs to follow on the line of scent. A second sign will readily be discerned by the fact of an increased attentiveness of the opposite sex and the appearance of a mucous discharge from the vagina. She should then be carefully protected Breeding and Whelping 35 from the gallantry of suitors. Dogs kept in the near neigh- hourhood of a bitch on heat, who is not accessible to them, go off their feed and suffer in condition, and in any case it is not nice to have a team of strange dogs hanging round your front gate. To obviate this it is well to keep the bitch safely guarded in some enclosure where visitors cannot get near her. If you take her out for a walk you only increase the difficulties, for she will most certainly be tracked. With most breeds it is unwdse to put a bitch to stud before she is eighteen months old, but a Bull bitch should be allowed to breed at her first heat, while her body retains the flexibility of youth ; and there is no doubt that with regard to the Bulldog great mortality occurs in attempting to breed from maiden bitches exceeding three years old. In almost all breeds it is the case that the ^ first three litters are the best. It is accord- ingly important that a proper mating should be considered well in advance, and a prospective sire selected either through the medium of stud advertisements or by private arrangement with the owner of the desired dog. For the payment of the requisite stud fee, varying from a guinea to ten or even twenty pounds, the services of the best dogs of the particular breed can usually be secured. It is customary for the bitch to be the visitor, and it is well that her visit should extend to two or three days at the least. When possible a responsible person should accompany her. The exact time at which this visit should be made is a matter of arrangement and convenience. When possible it is well to send or take the bitch when she is fully due to come in season or when she exhibits the first sign, rather than to delay until the discharge has become red. This gives time for courtship and a natural alliance. But if the mating is to take place in her home kennels it is necessary onl}^ to protect her from other dogs and watch her until she herself shows her desire. If she is not willing she will snap and show her teeth, but if she begins to thrt and play with the chosen mate through the dividing railings and allows him to lick her, they may be left alone together to carry on their own affairs in a natural way. It is seldom that any assistance is necessary. The Stud Dog. — If the stud dog is a frequenter of shows he can usually be depended upon to be in sound physical con- 30 The Complete Book of the Dog ditioii. No dog who is not so can be expected to win prizes. But it ought to be ascertained beforehand that he is what is known as a good stock-getter. The fee is for his services, not for the result of them. Some owners of stud dogs will grant two services, and this is desirable, especially in the case of a maiden bitch or of a stud dog that is overwrought, as so many are. When the stud fees are as high as ten or fifteen pounds there is obviously a temptation on the owner's part to multiply the occasions for earning them. Some owners are more considerate, and diminish the services by exercising the right of taking in approved bitches only, rigidly excluding all that might deteriorate the breed. An acknowledgment of service in writing should always be given by the owner of the stud dog : and it is to the interest of both parties that this should be done. The most satisfactory way, of course, is to own your own stud dog, preferably of your own breeding. In any case, it is most important that both the mated animals should be free from worms and skin disorders. Fifty per cent, of the casualties among young puppies are due to one or other of the parents having been in an unhealthy condition when mated. A winter whelping is not advisable. It is best for puppies to be bom in the spring or early summer, thus escaping the rigours of inclement weather. For the care of the stud dog it is necessary only to keep him in perfectly good health and give him abundant meat food and open air exercise. The Bitch in Whelp. — During the period of gestation, which is sixty-two days, the breeding bitch should have ample but not violent exercise, with varied and wholesome food, includ- ing some preparation of bone meal, and an occasional cod-liver oil biscuit, such as those supplied by Spratt's. She will need a constant supply of clean fresh water. She is better without any medicine, but at about the third week, whether she seems to require it or not, she should be treated for worms. At about the sixtieth day she will begin to be uneasy and restless. A mild purgative should be given ; usually salad oil is enough, but if constipation is apparent castor-oil may be necessary, and her food should be sloppy rather than dry. On the sixty- second day the whelps may be expected, and everything ought to be in readiness for the event. Breeding and Whelping 37 A coarsely constituted bitch may be trusted to look after herself on these occasions ; no help is necessary, and one may come down in the morning to find her with her litter com- fortably nestling at her side. But with the toy breeds, and the breeds that have been reared in artificial conditions, difficult or protracted parturition is frequent, and human assistance ought to be at hand in case of need. The owner of a valuable Bull bitch, for example, would never think of leaving her to her own unaided devices. The Bulldog has been bred \vith a thick body, a short neck and a short muzzle, and when a bitch of this breed is giving birth to her whelps she cannot, so to speak, make both ends meet without difficulty and ex- haustion. A more flexibly built and longer bodied bitch can manage better, and she ought to need no assistance. Especially ought she to need no help of a surgical kind. Nature has endowed the female dog with the best of all possible ob- stetrical instruments in a long, clean, prehensile tongue, which she uses on these occasions with astonishing skill, helped by the natural forceps of her close-fitting teeth. I have myself sat by and watched a bitch from beginning to end of the opera- tion without once having needed to offer help. All undue interference should be avoided, and it is absolutely necessary that the person attending her should be one with whom she is fondly familiar and trustful. In anticipation of a possibly numerous litter, a foster-mother should be arranged for beforehand. Comfortable quarters should be prepared in a quiet part of the house or kennels, warm, and free from draughts. Clean bedding of wheaten straw should be provided, but the bitch should be allowed to make her nest in her own instinctive fashion. Let her have easy access to drinking water, remove her collar, and leave her alone. Parturition. — She will probably refuse food for a few hours before her time, but a little concentrated nourish- ment, such as Brand's Essence or a drink of warm milk, thickened with Lactol, should be offered to her. In further preparation for the confinement a basin of water containing antiseptic for washing in, towels, warm milk, a flask of brandy, a bottle of ergotine, and a pair of scissors are commodities which may all be required in emergency. The ergot, which 38 The Complete Book of the Dog must be used with extreme caution and only when the labour pains have commenced, is invaluable when parturition is pro- tracted and there is difficult straining without result. Its effect is to contract the womb and expel the contents. But when the puppies are expelled with ease it is superfluous. For a bitch of lo lb. in weight ten drops of the extract of ergot in a teaspoonful of water should be ample, given by the mouth. The scissors are for severing the umbilical cord if the mother fail to do it in her own natural way. Sometimes a puppy may be enclosed within a membrane which the dam cannot readily open with tongue and teeth. If help is necessary it should be given tenderly and with clean fingers, and, of course, if there are complications or any real difficulties a vet should at once be summoned. Occasionally a puppy may seem to be inert and lifeless, and after repeatedly licking it the bitch may re- linquish aU effort at restoration and turn her attention to another that is being bom. In such a circumstance the rejected little one may be discreetly removed, and a drop of brandy on the point of the finger smeared upon its tongue may revive animation, or it may be plunged up to the neck in warm water. The object should be to keep it warm and to make it breathe. When the puppies are all born, their dam may be given a drink of warm Puppilac and then left alone to their toilet and to suckle them. If any should be dead, these ought to be disposed of. Curiosity in regard to the others should be temporarily repressed, and inspection of them delayed until a more fitting opportunity. If any are then seen to be mal- formed or to have cleft palates, these had better be removed and mercifully destroyed. It is the experience of many observers that the first whelps bom in a litter are the strongest, largest, and healthiest. If the litter is a large one, the last born may be noticeably puny, and this disparity in size may continue to maturity. The wise breeder will decide for himself how many whelps should be left to the care of their dam. The number should be relative to her health and constitution, and in any case it is well not to give her so many that they will be a drain upon her. Those breeds of dogs that have been most highly developed by man and that appear to have the greatest amount of brain and intelligence are generally the most prolific as to the number of Breeding and Whelping 39 puppies they produce. The deUcate toy breeds usually have small litters of three or four. St. Bernards, Pointers, Setters are notable for the usual strength of their families. St. Bernards have been kno\vn to produce as many as eighteen whelps at a birth, and it is no uncommon thing for them to produce from nine to twelve. A Pointer of Mr. Barclay Field's produced fifteen, and it is well known that Mr. Statter's Setter Phcebe produced twenty-one at a birth. Phoebe reared ten of these herself, and almost every one of the family became celebrated. It would be straining the natural possibilities of any bitch to expect her to bring up eighteen puppies healthily. Half that number would tax her natural resources to the extreme. But Nature is extraordinarily adaptive in tempering the wind to the shorn lamb, and a dam who gives birth to a numerous litter ought not to have her family unduly reduced. It was good policy to allow Phoebe to have the rearing of as many as ten out of her twenty-one. A bitch having twelve will bring up nine very well, one having nine will rear seven without help, but a bitch having seven wiU bring up five better than four. When the puppies are all born and the bitch has attended to them, some warm, well-boiled arrowroot and milk, or Spratt's Puppilac, should be offered to her, and for the first few days her general diet should be light and slightly warm. As she is hkely to be sensitive and perhaps a little feverish for a day or two, she should be kept very quiet and not in- terfered with. Let her choose her own time for getting up, but give her the opportunity — invite her — to take a Uttle exercise. This promotes the flow of milk, and, besides, she must make herself comfortable. As soon as may be her bedding should be renewed, the place cleaned out and well disinfected. Gradually she will absent herself for longer periods, until at length she takes courage to go into the house to tell the news. Rearing Puppies. — Breeders of toy dogs, and especially when they have a trained kennel-maid, often rear the overplus offspring by hand, with the help of a Maw and Thompson feeding-bottle, peptonized milk, and one or more of the various advertised infants' foods or orphan puppy foods. Others prefer to engage or prepare in advance a foster-mother. The 40 The Complete Book of the Dog foster-mother need not be of the same breed, but she should be approximately of similar size, and her own family ought to be of the same age as the one of which she is to take additional charge. One can usually be secured through advertisement in the canine press. Some owners do not object to taking one from a dogs' home, which is an easy method, in con- sideration of the circumstance that by far the larger number of " lost " dogs are bitches sent adrift because they are in whelp. The chief risk in this course is that the unknown foster- mother may be diseased or verminous or have contracted the seeds of distemper, or her milk may be populated with embryo worms. These are dangers to guard against. A cat makes an excellent foster-mother for toy dog puppies. Cow's milk is not strong enough for puppies, and if it is given it ought always to be thickened. Goat's milk is far more suitable ; but the most popular substitute for bitch's milk is Sherley's Lactol, a preparation which I consider quite the best food for orphan puppies that has yet been produced. It may be given in increasing strength and quantity, as the staple diet, from suckling time to the time of weaning, served at first in the feeding-bottle and afterwards in the saucer. Tail-docking. — Apart from nursing and feeding there are some Httle things to be attended to with young puppies still in the nest, and one of them is the matter of tail-docking. There are certain breeds in which the tail, or a portion of the tail, is removed. The Old English Sheepdog is often born without a tail ; but when one is there, it is amputated at the joint nearest the rump. The Schipperke is dealt with in the same way, but a tiny stump may be left. The operation is done with a good strong knife and the stump touched with Friar's balsam. There is not much bleeding, and little ap- parent pain. It is best done at three days old or certainly within six days of birth. Spaniels, with the exception of the Irish Water Spaniel, have the tail shortened by about three- fifths of its length. This is done to prevent injury to the stem afterwards when hunting in coverts and thick undergrowths. Poodles' tails are docked of half their length. Airedales, Welsh, and Irish Terriers have rather less than half of the tail left. Fox-terriers and Sealyhams retain somewhat more than half. Yorkshire Terriers, the King Charles Spaniels, and Breeding and Whelping 41 Brussels Griffons should have one-third of the length left. These are all the breeds whose tails are not left as Nature made them. To meddle with the tails of any other puppies than those mentioned is to spoil them. The shortening is best done with a strong pair of scissors, at a joint if you can find one, and always at the age of from three to six days. The skin is pulled well back towards the rump and then, after the cutting, is drawn together over the exposed bone. It should not, of course, be done in the presence of the dam, and she had better remain absent for half an hour or so, until all signs have been cleared away. If any of the puppies should have dew-claws on their hind- legs these should be cut off close to the root. They are useless and are often a great nuisance in the grown dog through being broken and torn, or growing into the flesh. But they are sometimes left on the legs of the St. Bernard and other mountain dogs. They are rarely removed from the forelegs ; except of Fox-terriers, for the sake of neatness. It ought not to be necessary to give special attention to the dam after the first week, unless she develops any milk trouble ; and the sooner she resumes her normal meat diet the better. Scraped raw meat is good for her at this time. She should still be kept quiet and not interfered with. Many of the toy dogs are very resentful of interference : more than one of the Goodwood Pekingese bitches showed their resentment by devouring their own offspring. Some of the big dogs, such as the Mastiff and the Newfoundland, may lie upon their puppies and smother them if disturbed. The bitch should be allowed to suckle her young so long as her milk lasts ; but the daily periods of her absence from them should be gradually lengthened. When the puppies are three or four weeks old they may be taught to lap from the dish or saucer, but they ought not to be weaned suddenly. Little and often should be the rule when at about six weeks old they begin to take other food than milk, and a little nicely scraped raw meat should then be given once a day. They should be encouraged to move about as much as possible in their play, they should never go hungry, yet not be allowed to gorge. They should lie with the dam at night until they be- come so active as to disturb her own sleep, when they may be 42 The Complete Book of the Dog given 'their own separate compartments. At six weeks old they will be independent, and the number of their meals should be gradually reduced until at seven weeks they are put upon the rations of the adult dog. Worms. — Worms ought not to be a necessary accompani- ment of puppyhood, and if the sire and dam are properly seen to in advance they need not be. I have attended puppies, not one of whom has shown the remotest sign of having a worm, and the youngsters have almost galloped into healthy, happy maturity, protected from all the usual canine ailments by constitutions impervious to disease. I have seen others almost eaten away by worms ; they have perforated the stomach and wrought such damage that most of the puppies succumbed, and those that survived were permanently deficient in stamina and liable to go wrong on the least provo- cation. The puppy that is free from worms starts life with a great advantage. But this is seldom the case. When they are about eight weeks old you may see your puppies becoming pot-bellied, and as soon as this happens action must be taken vigorously if you are to rescue them. Even before this time — indeed as soon as it seems safe to give anything at all — an occasional dose of laxative medicine is desirable, or, better still, a grain of areca-nut powder to every pound the puppy weighs, followed by castor-oil. But this subject and also Distemper are dealt with fully in Chapter XXII. Do not be in a hurry to get rid of the puppies. It is very difficult to select one in the nest. All puppies change very much as they grow, and the best looking often goes wrong later, while the ugly duckling turns out the best of the litter. The head of a Bull pup changes in shape. Dandie Dinmonts and Bedlingtons are born black and tan, with smooth coats. The coat of a Dalmatian puppy is pure white, without a sign of a spot. The permanent ear carriage of a dog can never be properly ascertained in the early months. Whole-coloured breeds often show a temporary white patch on the throat. The biggest puppy is not necessarily the healthiest. An undershot jaw may become level, and a level one may go wrong. There are certain promissory points, however, which anyone familiar with the particular breed may recognize. CHAPTER IV The Dog's Status, Legal and Social The Law and the Dog — The Kennel Club — The L.K.A. Licences. — One of the first duties of the dog-ovvner is to take out a hcence for each dog he keeps. This is obtainable at all post offices at the cost of 7s. 6d., and is dated to run from the hour it is taken out until the foUomng 31st December. The person in whose custody or upon whose premises the dog is found will be deemed its owner until proved otherwise. The owners of certain dogs for certain purposes arc, however, exempted from taking out licences, viz. : (i) Dogs under the age of six months ; (2) hounds under twelve months old neither used nor hunted with the pack, provided that the Master has taken out proper Ucences for all hounds entered in the pack ; (3) one dog kept and used by a blind person solely for his or her guidance ; (4) dogs kept and used solely for the purpose of tending sheep or cattle or in the exercise of the occupation or calling of a shepherd. The Dog-owner's Liabilities. — ^There are many legal enact- ments with which the ordinary dog-keeper is not famihar. Some of these are rehcs of the old Forest Laws, not yet wholly obsolete but generally ignored. It is not commonly realized, for example, that the lord of a manor still has power by law to seize and take for his own use, or to kill, aU dogs used within the manor for killing game by any person not holding a game licence ; or that there is still a heavy penalty attached to the offence of using any dog for drawing or helping to draw any cart, carriage, truck or barrow. The statutes against bull- baiting and badger-baiting exist, of course, now as alw'ays, and the law prohibiting dog-fighting contests is strictly en- forced. While most people are aware that it is a punishable offence to suffer to be at large any unmuzzled ferocious dog, they do not always realize that it is equally culpable at law to set on or urge any dog to attack, worry or put in fear any person, horse or other animal. 43 44 The Complete Book of the Dog Dog Bites and Dog Fights. — Theoretical^, every dog is entitled to a first bite : that is to say, if he has previously been of irreproachable character he will probably be let off with a caution. Once a dog has displayed dangerous pro- pensities, however, the law looks upon him as a dangerous beast which his owner keeps at his peril. The onus of proof is on the victim of the bite to show that the owner had previous knowledge of the animal's ferocity. The person attacked can, if he is able, kill the dog before it can bite him, but he is not justified in shooting the animal as it runs away, even after being bitten. The owner of a dog which attacks sheep or cattle — and cattle include horses — is responsible for all damage, and there is no necessity to prove previous evil propensities. This is not the case in the circumstance of a dog injuring another dog in a fight or quarrel. The law looks upon fighting between dogs as a natural incident, and gives no redress to the owner of the vanquished animal, provided the fight was a fair one, and the contestants appear to consider it so. The owner, however, of a peaceably disposed dog which is attacked and injured, or killed, by one savage and unrestrained, has a right of action against the owner of the latter. The owner of the peaceably disposed animal may justifiably kill the savage brute in order to save his dog, but he must run the risk of being able to prove that this was the only means of putting a stop to the fight. The approved method of saving your dog in such a crisis has been decided by law to be that of beating off your dog's opponent with a stick. But most dog-keepers know that there is no better way of parting two fighting dogs than a good big pinch of snuff adroitly placed, or else, if snuff is not handy, a bucket of cold water emptied dexterously over the aggressor's face. ♦♦ Beware of the Dog." — This notice, as also the notice " Dogs will be shot," carries very little legal significance. By law you have no right to place a fierce dog in such a situa- tion that a person innocently coming to your house for a lawful purpose may be injured by it. The notice to be effectual should state that a fierce dog is at large on the premises : it must be a definite warning, and if a person so warned elects to run the risk and is injured in consequence, he is held to be the author of his own hurt. In the absence of an adequate The Dog's Status, Legal and Social 45 warning the injured person may recover damages for injuries received, unless it can be proved that he was a trespasser. A trespassing dog may not be shot unless he is caught actually doing damage, and the notice " Dogs will be shot " does not mean that stray dogs trespassing and hunting about in search of game can be shot at sight. The poisoning of trespassing dogs is prohibited by 27 and 28 Vict. c. 115, whereby every person who places or causes to be placed in or about any lands (except in a dwelling-house or enclosed garden for the purpose of destroying vermin) any poisoned flesh or meat is liable on summary conviction to a fine of £10. You are not held responsible in the case of trespass by your dog if the trespass is committed without your knowledge. If, however, the dog is known to be a confirmed trespasser his owner becomes liable, on the assumption that he ought to have taken means to prevent the dog trespassing ; and if he incites his dog to trespass then he is liable for any damage the dog may do. Dog-stealing. — The Larceny Act of 1861 made dog-stealing a statutable offence for which the punishment on summary conviction is a fine of ;^20 or imprisonment for not more than six months, with or without hard labour, and to be in possession of a stolen dog or its skin is under the same Act a misdemeanour triable at Quarter Sessions and punishable by imprisonment up to eighteen months. It is unlawful publicly to advertise rewards for the return of a lost or stolen dog on the promise that no questions will be asked. This is regarded as the compounding of a felony and the offender is liable to imprisonment. It is useful to know that the statute enacts that property in stolen goods reverts to the original owner upon conviction of the thief, and that the owner may recover his lost dog even from an innocent purchaser. In buying a dog, therefore, it is important that you should be certain that it has not been stolen, and where possible you should always demand a Kennel Club certificate of ownership. Muzzling Regulations. — Under the Contagious Diseases (Animals) Acts, 1878-1894, local authorities (i.e. county, borough, or district councils) were empowered to issue orders regulating the muzzling of dogs in pubHc places and the keep- ing of dogs under control (otherwise than by muzzling). 46 The Complete Book of the Dog Offenders under these Acts are liable to a fine not exceeding £20. The statute gives the Board of Agriculture power to make orders for muzzling dogs, keeping them under control, and the detention and disposal of stray dogs ; and section 2 of the Dogs Act, 1906 (known by some as the Curfew Bell Act), says that the Diseases of Animals Act, 1894, shall have effect : (a) For prescribing and regulating the wearing by dogs while in a highway or in a place of public resort of a collar with the name and address of the owner inscribed on the collar or on a plate or badge attached thereto : {b) With a view to the prevention of worrying of cattle for preventing dogs or any class of dogs from straying during all or any of the hours between sunset and sunrise. Stray Dogs. — The Dogs Act, 1906, has some important sections dealing with seizure of stray dogs, and enacts that where a police officer has reason to believe that any dog found in a highway or place of public resort is a stray dog, he may seize and retain it until the owner has claimed it and paid all expenses incurred by reason of its detention. If the dog so seized wears a collar on which is the address of any person, or if the owner of the dog is known, then the chief officer of police shall serve on either such person a notice in writing stating that the dog has been seized, and will be sold or destroyed if not claimed witliin seven clear days. Failing the owner putting in an appearance and paying all expenses of detention within the seven clear days, then the chief officer of police may cause the dog to be sold or destroyed in a manner to cause as little pain as possible. The police must keep a proper register of all dogs seized, and may transfer such dog to any estabhsh- ment for the reception of stray dogs, but only if there is a proper register kept at such establishment open to inspection. Another section enacts that any person who takes possession of a stray dog shall forthwith either return the dog to its owner or give notice in writing to the police containing a de- scription of the dog and stating the place where the dog was found, and the place where he is being detained, and any person failing to comply with the provisions of this section shall be liable to a fine not exceeding forty shillings. The Dog's Status, Legal and Social 47 Importation of Dogs. — The power of making orders dealing with the importation of dogs is vested in the Board of Agriculture, who have absolute authority in the matter. The initial step to be taken by a person wishing to import any dog into Great Britain from any other country excepting Ireland, the Channel Islands, and the Isle of Man, is that he must fill up an application form to the Board, in which he applies for a licence to land the dog under the conditions im- posed. On the form he has to give a full description of the dog, the name and address of the owner, the proposed port of landing, and the approximate date of landing, and further from lists which he will receive from the Board he must select the carrying agents he proposes should superintend the move- ment of the dog from the port of landing to the place of deten- tion, and also the premises of a veterinary surgeon on which he proposes the dog shall be detained and isolated as required by the order. An imported dog must be landed and taken to its place of detention in a suitable box, hamper, crate or other receptacle, and as a general rule has to remain entirel}' isolated for a period of six months. Motor-cars and Dogs .—Unquestionably the greatest enemies that the dog possesses at the present time are the motor-car and motor-bicycle. Presuming the owner of the dog is fortunate enough to know whose car or cycle it was that ran over his dog, and to have some evidence of excessive or unreasonable speed or other negligence on the part of the driver, he will find the law ever ready to assist him. A dog has every bit as much right to the high road as a motor. Efforts have been made on the part of motor owners to get the Courts to hold that dogs on a high road are only under proper control if on a lead, and that if they are not on a lead the owner is guilty of negli- gence in allowing his dog to stroll about, and therefore is not entitled to recover ; such efforts have not been successful. Even supposing a Court to hold that the fact of a dog being loose in this way or unaccompanied was evidence of negUgence against his owTier this would by no means defeat his owner's claim, for the law is, that though a plaintiff may have been negligent in some such way as this, yet if the defendant could, by the exercise of reasonable care, have avoided the accident, 48 The Complete Book of the Dog the plaintiff can still recover. There are several cases that decide this valuable principle. Dogs in Omnibuses and Trains. — The dog-keeper is fre- quently confronted by regulations and by-laws which inter- fere with his convenience. This is so even in the simple matter of travelling about with his canine companion. It is not permissible, for example, to take a dog of any sort inside an omnibus in London. You may take one outside if you can carry him up ; but this means that no large dog can travel by omnibus. In a railway train — by permission of the guard — you may take your dog into the compartment with you, but if he is too large to lie on your knees he must go into the guard's van, there to be chained up in a dark corner where probably other dogs before him have left their uncleanness and the germs of distemper. If the journey is a long one the sensible owner will put his dog into a travelling crate or a properly ventilated dog box. Carriage of Dogs by Land and Sea. — By statute a railway company is bound to carry dogs if it has facilities for doing so. But the law does not impose on the company the obliga- tion of an insurer with regard to animals, and as a result the company is only hable to the owner when a dog is injured or killed through the negligence or default of the servants of the company. In this matter it has become the custom of all British railway companies to limit their liability with respect to dogs to the sum of £2, unless the owner has previously de- clared a higher value and there exists a signed memorandum of the contract between the parties. In this event, of course, the railway company charges a higher premium proportionate to the declared value of the dog, in addition to the ordinary rate of charge for carriage. A useful case was an action against the Midland Railway Company, in which the plaintiff got judgment for £300, the sum claimed by him as damages for the loss of a Pointer bitch burnt to death in its hamper in the parcels oihce at Chesterfield Station. With regard to the carriage of dogs by sea the liability of the shipping company depends wholly upon the terms of the bill of lading, which is invariably full of exceptions limiting the shipper's liability. Few dog-owners understand these conditions and intricacies, and in the circumstance of their The Dog's Status, Legal and Social 49 wishing to export a valuable dog overseas, by far the safest and most satisfactory method is to place the transaction in the hands of Spillcr's or of Spratt's shipping department, which assumes the whole responsibility for the feeding, housing, insurance, and general care of the dog during transit. The Kennel Club. — From consideration of these statutory laws affecting the dog and his owner it is a natural transition to the Kennel Club. Just as the Legislature formulates and administers the laws of the land, so it is the Kennel Club which makes and administers the rules and regulations that keep clean and honourable the sport and commerce of dog-keeping. In the early years of the nineteenth century the " dog- fancier " was not esteemed as a respectable member of society. He was contemned as being in the nature of things little better than a sharper and a rogue. Dog shows were then held on premises which women dog-lovers dared not enter. But the Kennel Club has cleared the sport' of all fraudulent usages and made the transactions of the canine community so clean and honourable, the art of dog-breeding and exhibiting so reputable, that the highest ladies in the land now engage in them with enthusiasm and confidence. It is the Kennel Club which keeps record of all the pedigrees of our registered dogs, which maintains the rigid distinction between the various breeds, which regulates all our dog shows and awards the coveted honour of championship ; which legislates by its rules for the honest performance of all the commerce affecting the buying and selling and exhibiting of dogs. Even as the Jockey Club is the general headquarters in connexion with equine affairs, the Kennel Club is the supreme guiding and controlling power in the world of dogs. On examining the code of rules printed in the appendix to this book, the reader will understand to what a great extent the Kennel Club provides not only for the proper and tender treatment of the dogs themselves, but also for the prevention of all possible dishonesty, deception and injustice on the part of people having business dealings with dogs and dog shows. It is a club in the social sense, with a club-house in Picca- dilly. But mainly and ostensibly it is an assemblage of gentle men bound together by a common interest in the sports of hunting, shooting and dog-keeping. A general committee is 50 The Complete Book of the Dog annually elected, with sub-committees for special departments, such as Field Trials, Finance, House, Shows, Stud Book, and challenge certificates and show regulations. These are assisted by a committee of the Ladies' Branch of the Kennel Club, and there is an auxiliary council of representatives who are delegated by the various specialist clubs and societies all over the Kingdom. The general work of the Kennel Club is conducted by the secretary, with the aid of an assistant secretary and a large staff of clerks. The amount of detail work in corre- spondence, in keeping the registers of dogs, checking cata- logues, issuing permits for shows, and attending to the whole intricate business of regulating the affairs of the dog-loving community cannot be conceived by the outsider. One of the most important functions of the Kennel Club is that which gives the committee power of jurisdiction and of administering its strict penal rules. This power is very great, since in cases of proved malpractice it can damage the character of an individual and make him or her a person quite unfit to be a member of any society whose aim it is to maintain the purity of the sport it is founded to uphold. The procedure adopted in cases under the penal rule is as near perfection as it can be. The taking of evidence is based on the procedure of the Courts of Law, and when witnesses are unable to attend at the hearing of a complaint their statu- tory declarations are necessary if their evidence in writing is to be admitted. The chairman occupies the position of a judge. Verbatim reports of the proceedings are taken, and these are published in the Kennel Gazette, the official organ of the club. The club address is 84, Piccadilly, London, W. Quite recently this power of jurisdiction has been extended to the Scottish Kennel Club (59, George Street, Edinburgh), so that it is no longer necessary for offences committed in Scotland to be tried in London. The L.K.A. — Complementary to the Kennel Club and in no wise in opposition to it is The Ladies' Kennel Association. This society, which has its offices in Belfast Chambers, Regent Street, W., was established largely with the purpose of re- lieving the Kennel Club of much of the detail work connected The Dog's Status, Legal and Social 51 with the growing community of women interested in canine matters. Its object is not that of a social club, but of a union of women whose aim is the promotion of the scientific breeding of dogs, the commerce of dog dealing and exhibition, and the general welfare of the dog. In the early years of its incorpora- tion the L.K.A. limited its exhibitions of dogs to those owned and registered by women ; but since 1904 the annual championship show, held in the summer at Ranelagh, in Richmond Park, or in the Botanical Gardens, has been open to all exhibitors, men and women alike, and it is one of the prominent events of the London season, as well as being one of the four principal dog shows of the year. In these days there is no distinction between men and women as dog-owners and exhibitors, and in the following chapters on the various breeds of the dog it will be noticed how very many of the champions named have been bred by women. No dog is now exclusively a man's dog. Women have become experts in all breeds, from Bloodhounds to Blenheims, from gun dogs to Griffons, from Mastiffs to Maltese. The entrance of women into the canine commonwealth on an equal footing with men has contributed greatly to the benefit of the dog himself and to the purification of the whole atmosphere of dogdom ; and women have displayed again and again in the show ring that spirit of true sportsmanship which can meet a success without undue elation or a disappointment without dismay. Section II NON-SPORTING AND UTILITY BREEDS CHAPTER V The Native British Dogs Classification and Points — The Mastiff and the Bulldog Acclimatized Aliens and British Breeds. — We have in Great Britain at the present time some eighty distinct and officially recognized breeds and varieties of the dog. The Briton's love of the dog and his methods of selective breeding have gained for him the reputation of being the most suc- cessful dog-keeper in the world. In priding ourselves upon this reputation we must not forget that of the many different kinds of dog now established as British, not a few have had their origin in foreign lands, whence specimens have been im- ported in course of time to be so improved by selection that they have come to be commonly accepted as native breeds. Some breeds are protected from the claim that they are indigenous by the fact that their origin is indicated in their names. No one could pretend that the St. Bernard or the Newfoundland, the Spaniel or the Dalmatian, are of native origin. They are immigrants whom we have naturaUzed. In accepting and acclimatizing alien breeds we have in almost every case diverted the dog from its original and intended purpose. The Borzoi, which is with us merely an ornamental companion and only nominally a sporting dog, is in its native Russia a courageous hunter of the wolf and the bear. The Great Dane is by nature a boar-hunting dog, and the Dachshund, which we have softened into a velvety dandy of the drawing-room, is here a stranger to his proper work of dravting the badger, while the snow-white Samoyed of our show benches is essentiall}' a sledge hauler on the frozen trails of the Far North. For our small pet dogs that lie in cushioned comfort un- disturbed we have always gone abroad. None of them is of native British origin. Many bear in their names the obvious token of their foreign descent — the Pekingese, the Pomeranian, the Japanese, the Maltese, the Brussels Griffon, 55 56 The Complete Book of the Dog and the Bouledogue Frangais. But the Pug is also an accUma- tized aUen ; it came originally from the Far East, as did our King Charles Spaniels. We have two terriers — the Clydes- dale and the Yorkshire — which have been converted into lap- dogs, and there are the miniature varieties of the Black- and-Tan and the white Bull-terriers which are officially classed as Toys. But the fact remains that with these four exceptions, all of our popular small dogs of luxury are of exotic origin. On the other hand, it is interesting to note that without any such exception our terriers are exclusively indigenous. We have not borrowed a single breed or variety of terrier from abroad. Of the non-sporting and utihty breeds we have many that are equally British in remote ancestry. The Old English Sheepdog and the Collie are among them ; so, too, are our typically national Bulldog and his larger relative the English Mastiff. Classification and the Value of Points. — The ensuing chapters on the various breeds of the dog are grouped in sections : (i) Non-sporting and utihty breeds ; {2) Hounds, Gun-dogs, and other sporting breeds ; (3) the Terriers ; (4) Toy and Lap-dogs. In connexion with each separate variety a detailed description of the typical dog is given. These are the recognized descriptions authorized by the specialist clubs representing the welfare of the respective breeds. In many instances a scale showing the relative values of points is added. The importance of particular points varies. Every breed of dog possesses some characteristic distinguishing it from all others. Thus, for example, it may be seen that in the case of the Dalmatian the scale gives a percentage of 30 points for colour and markings and 15 for the quahties of the head ; whereas in the case of the Bulldog the colour of the animal is wholly ignored as a point, while as many as 45 points in the hundred are given for the head alone. No expert in the show ring ever judges his dogs on exact numerical points. He knows by heart all the salient attributes of each breed, and in a variety class he would not think of dismissing a good- headed Bulldog because of an ugly coat, or refuse a prize to an evenly spotted Dalmatian who happened to own a badly shaped skull. By a careful attention to the following de- scriptions the reader will understand exactly the distinguish- The Native British Dogs 57 ing characteristics of each breed and learn what to look for in choosing his dog or in comparing him with others of the same variety. The Mastiff. — The EngUsh Mastiff is the oldest of our native British dogs, cultivated in these islands for so many centuries that the only difficulty concerning his history is that of tracing his descent and discovering the period when he was not familiarly known. The probability is that he owes his origin to some very remote ancestor of aUen strain. The Assyrian kings possessed a large dog of decided Mastiff type, and used it in the hunting of lions and for the capture of \vild horses. It is more than probable that these canine giants were introduced into early Britain by the adventurous Phoenician traders who, in the sixth century B.C., voyaged to the Scilly Islands and Cornwall to barter their own com- modities in exchange for the useful metals. Knowing the requirements of their barbarian customers, these early mer- chants from Tyre and Sidon are believed to have brought some of the larger pugnaces, which would be readily accepted by the Britons to supplant, or improve, their courageous but undersized fighting dogs. In Anglo-Saxon times every two villeins were required to maintain one of these dogs for the purpose of reducing the number of wolves and other wild animals. This would indicate that the Mastiff was recognized as a capable hunting dog ; but at a later period his hunting instincts were not highly esteemed, and he was not regarded as a peril to pre- served game ; for in the reign of Henry III the Forest Laws, which prohibited the keeping of all other breeds by un- privileged persons, permitted the Mastiff to come within the precincts of a forest, imposing, however, the condition that every such dog should have the claws of the forefeet removed close to the skin. The name Mastiff was applied to any massively built dog. It is not easy to trace the true breed amid the various names which it owned. Molossus, Alan, Alaunt, Tie-dog, Bandog were among the number. The names Tie-dog and Bandog intimate that the Mastiff was commonly kept for guard, but many were specially trained for baiting bears, imported lions, and buUs. 5S The Complete Book of the Dog Bull-baiting was at one time the especial office of the English Mastiff ; he was known as the bull-dog. He was also used as a guardian of flocks and herds against the marauding wolf — a purpose for which most of the big dogs of Mastiff type have been bred in other countries. When bull-baiting was discontinued and the wolf was exterminated, the deep-mouthed Mastiff was retained as a protector of property. He remains our most distinguished watch-dog. His vigilance, his formidable presence, his aspect of ferocity, his deep, penetrating voice, and his great weight of body and strength of limb give him supremacy as the guardian of a lonely homestead. He is not by nature a bad-tempered dog ; often he is as docile as he is courageous ; but if roused to anger a dog of such power is a very dangerous creature, and no tramp or burglar would run the risk of approaching him. There is constant record of the Mastiff having been kept and carefully bred for many generations in certain old English families. One of the oldest strains was that kept by the Legh family, of Lyme Hall, in Cheshire. They were large powerful dogs, longer in muzzle than those which we are now accustomed to see. Another old and valuable strain was kept by the Duke of Devonshire at Chatsworth. It is to these two strains that the best Mastiffs of the present day trace back. The most noted Mastiff breeders of fifty years ago were Mr. Lukey, Captain Gamier, and Mr. Edgar Han- bury, each of whom drew upon the Lyme Hall and Chatsworth kennels. Mr. Lukey's Governor, Mr. Hanbury's Rajah, and Miss Aglionby's Turk were famous dogs whose names are searched for in all pedigrees of the Mastiff. Turk, a fawn dog, was considered the best Mastiff of his period. Rajah distinguished himself in the 'seventies. Other prominent representatives were Monarch, Scawfell, Nero, Gwendolen, the Emperor, and Crown Prince. The last-mentioned was a magnificent fawn dog. He was marred, however, by a Dudley nose and a light eye, and his muzzle was pale instead of black. These faults were perpetuated and often exaggerated in many of his descendants, and unfortunately he was indiscriminately bred from ; with the result that in a very short time breeders found it impossible to get a Mastiff unrelated to him. . »" 1^-- .&■; ■•VM-.- V, > 1 The Native British Dogs 59 It is to be deplored that ever since the era of Crown Prince there has been a perceptible diminution in the number of good examples of this fine old English breed, and that from being an admired and fashionable dog the Mastiff has so declined in popularity that few are to be seen either at ex- hibitions or in breeders' kennels. At the Crystal Palace in 1871 there were as many as 63 Mastiffs on show, forming a line of benches two hundred yards long, and " not a bad one among them " ; whereas at a dog show held twenty- five years later, where more than 1,200 dogs were entered, not a single Mastiff was benched. At the Kennel Club show of 1921 only nine of the breed were exhibited, and none of these was of superlative merit. The difficulty of obtaining dogs of unblemished pedigree and superlative type may partly account for this decline, and another reason of unpopularity may be that the Mastiff requires so much attention to keep him in condition. Never- theless, the mischief of breeding too continuously from one strain such as that of Crown Prince has to some extent been eradicated, and we have had many splendid Mastiffs since his time. Special mention should be made of that gi^and bitch Cambrian Princess, by Beau. She was purchased by Mrs. Willins, who, mating her with Maximilian (a dog of her own breeding by The Emperor), obtained Minting, who shared with Mr. Sidney Turner's Beaufort the reputation of being unapproached for all-round merit in any period. The accompanying portrait of Ch. Minting, together with the following description of a perfect Mastiff, gives an admir- able standard at which breeders should aim : Points of the Mastiff. — General Character and Symmetry : Large, massive, powerful, symmetrical and well-knit frame. A combination of grandeur and good nature, courage and docility. Head : In general outline, giving a square appearance when viewed from any point. Breadth greatly to be desired, and should be in ratio to length of the whole head and face as 2 to 3. Body : Massive, broad, deep, long, powerfully built, on legs wide apart, and squarely set. iluscles sharply dehned. Size a great desideratum, if combined with quality. Height and substance important if both points are proportionately combined. Skull: Broad between the ears, forehead flat, but wrinkled when attention is excited. Brows (superciliary ridges) sUghtly raised. Muscles of the temples and cheeks (temporal and masseter) well developed. Arch across the skull of a rounded, flattened curve, with a depression up the centre of the forehead from the median line between the eyes, to half way up the sagittal suture. Face and JMnzzle : Short, broad under the eyes, and keepmg nearly parallel in width to the end of the nose ; truncated, i.e. blunt and cut off square, thus forming a right angle with the 6o The Complete Book of the Dog upper line of the face, of great depth from the point of the nose to under- jaw. Underjaw broad to the end ; canine teeth healthy, powerful and wide apart ; incisors level, or the lower projecting beyond the upper, but never sul^iciently so as to become visible when the mouth is closed. Nose broad, with widely spreading nostrils when viewed from the front ; flat (not pointed or turned up) in profile. Lips diverging at obtuse angles with the septum, and slightly pendulous so as to show a square profile. Length of muzzle to whole head and face as i to 3. Circumference of muzzle (measured midway between the eyes and nose) to that of the head (measured before the ears) as 3 to 5. Ears : Small, thin to the touch, wide apart, set on at the highest points of the sides of the skull, so as to continue the outline across the summit, and lying flat and close to the cheeks when in repose. Eyes : Small, wide apart, divided by at least the space of two eyes. The stop between th« eyes well marked, but not too abrupt. Colour hazel-brown, the darker the better, showing no haw. Neck, Chest, and Ribs : Neck — Slightly arched, moderately long, very muscular, and measuring in circumference about one or two inches less than the skull before the ears. Chest — Wide, deep, and well let down between the forelegs. Ribs arched and well rounded. False ribs deep and well set back to the hips. Girth should be one-third more than the height at the shoulder. Shoulder and Arm — Slightly sloping, heavy and muscular. Forelegs and Feet : Legs straight, strong and set wide apart ; bones very large. Elbows square. Pasterns upright. Feet large and round. Toes well arched up. Nails black. Back, Loins, and Flanks : Back and loins wide and muscular ; flat and very wide in a bitch, slightly arched in a dog. Great depth of flanks. Hind-legs and Feet : Hind-quarters broad, wide, and muscular, with well-developed second thighs, hocks bent, wide apart, and quite squarely set when standing or walking. Feet round. Tail: Put on high up, and reaching to the hocks, or a little below them, wide at its root and tapering to the end, hanging straight in repose, but forming a curve, with the end pointing upwards, but not over the back, when the dog is excited. Coat and Colour : Coat short and close lying, but not too fine over the shoulders, neck, and back. Colour, apricot or silver fawn, or dark fawn brindle. In any case, muzzle, ears, and nose should be black, with black round the orbits, and extending upwards between them. SCALE OF POINTS General character and symmetry 10 Body (height and substance) 10 SkuU 12 Face and muzzle . 18 Ears .... 4 Eyes .... 6 Neck, chest and ribs 8 Forelegs and feet . 6 Back, loins, and flanks 8 Hind-legs and feet 10 TaU . . . . 3 Coat and Colour . 5 Gra nd to tal 100 Size is a quality very desirable in this breed. The height of many dogs of olden days was from 32 to 33 inches. The height should be obtained rather from great depth of body than length of leg. A leggy Mastiff is very undesirable. Thirty inches may be taken as a fair average height for dogs, The Native British Dogs 6i and bitches somewhat less. Many of Mr. Lukey's stood 32 inches and over ; Mr. Green's Monarch was over 33 inches, The Shah 32 inches, and Cardinal 32 inches. The method of rearing a Mastiff has much to do with its ultimate size, but it is perhaps needless to say that the selec- tion of the breeding stock has still more to do with this. It is therefore essential to select a dog and bitch of a large strain to obtain large Mastiffs. It is not so necessary that the dogs themselves should be so large as that they come from a large strain. The weight of a full-grown dog should be anything over 160 lb. Many have turned the scale at 180 lb. The Shah, for instance, was 182 lb. in weight, Scawfell over 200 lb. One of the great difficulties that breeders of Mastiffs and all other large dogs have to contend against is in rearing the puppies ; so many bitches are clumsy and apt to kill the whelps by lying on them. It is, therefore, always better to be provided with one or more foster bitches. At about six weeks old a fairly good opinion may be formed as to what the puppies will ultimately turn out in certain respects, for, although they may change materially during growth, the good or bad qualities which are manifest at that early age will, in all probability, be apparent when the puppy has reached maturity. It is, therefore, frequently easier to select the best puppy in the nest than to do so when they are from six to nine or ten months old. Puppies should be allowed all the liberty possible, and never be tied up ; they should be taken out for steady, gentle exercise, and not permitted to get fat or they become too heavy, with detrimental results to their legs. Many Mastiff puppies are very shy and nervous, but they will grow out of this if kindly handled. The temper of Mastiffs should be taken into consideration by the breeder. They are, as a rule, possessed of the best of tempers, but some inquiries as to the disposition of a stud dog should be made before deciding to use him. Other Types of Mastiff. — Mastiffs of various types are to be found on the Continent and in Asia. In Andalusia and Estramadura the handsome Spanish Alano is still used as an assistant in the bull-fight. He is larger than the so-caUed 62 The Complete Book of the Dog Spanish Bulldog, and is sometimes mistaken for the Dogue de Bordeaux, which latter is a much finer animal, impres- sively massive, with a square, much-wrinkled head, a broad, deep and powerful muzzle and a gladiatorial body, weighing about 120 lb. The coat is smooth, preferably a reddish fawn with a darker red mask. In general appearance he is not unlike our English Mastiff, but at best he is a vicious, for- bidding brute. The beautiful white-coated Pyrenean Dog is also essentially a Mastiff, and but for the difference in colour he in his turn bears considerable resemblance to the rare Mastiff of Tibet. Somewhat higher on the leg than the Tibet Mastiff, the Pyrenean has the same massive body, the same character and texture of coat and the same form of head. It is my belief that with our English Mastiff all of these breeds are descendants in different lines from the ancient lion-hunting dog of the Assyrian kings. The Bulldog. — Like the English Mastiff, of which he is a smaller form, the Bulldog is a descendant of the " Alaunt," Mastive, or Bandog, described by Dr. Caius, who states that " the Mastyve or Bandogge is vaste, huge, stubborne, ougly and eager, of a hevy, and burthenous body, and therefore but of little swiftnesse, terrible and frightful to beholde, and more fearce and fell than any Arcadian curre." The first mention of " Bulldog " as the distinctive name of this now national breed occurs in a letter, written by Prest- wich Eaton from St. Sebastian to George Wellingham in St. Swithin's Lane, London, in 1631 or 1632, " for a good Mastive dogge, a case of bottles replenished with the best lickour, and pray proceur mee two good buUdoggs, and let them be sent by ye first shipp." Obviously the name was derived from the dog's association Nvith the sport of bull- baiting, in which he was probably an assistant of the Mastiff as the terrier is an assistant to the Otterhound. The object aimed at in bull-baiting was that the dog should pin and hold the bull by the muzzle, and not leave it. The bull was natur- ally helpless when seized in his most tender part. As he lowered his head in order to use his horns it was necessary for the dog to keep close to the ground, or, in tlie words of the old fanciers of the sport, to " play low." Larger dogs were at a disadvantage in this respect, and, therefore, those The Native British Dogs 63 of smaller proportions, which were quite as suitable for the sport, were selected. The average height of the dogs was about 16 inches, and the weight was generally about 45 lb., whilst the body was broad, muscular, and compact, as is shown in Scott's well-known engraving of " Crib and Rosa." Wlien bull-baiting was prohibited by law the sportsmen of the period turned their attention to dog-fighting, and for this pastime the Bulldogs were specially trained. The chief centres in London where these exhibitions took place were the Westminster Pit, the Bear Garden at Bankside, and the old Conduit Fields in Bayswater. In order to obtain greater quickness of movement many of the Bulldogs were crossed with a terrier, although some fanciers relied on the pure breed. It is recorded that Lord Camelford's Bulldog Belcher fought one hundred and four battles without once suffering defeat. The decline of bull-baiting and dog-iighting after the pass- ing of the Bill prohibiting these sports was responsible for a lack of interest in perpetuating the breed of Bulldogs. Even in3i824 it was said to be degenerating, and gentlemen who had previously been the chief breeders gradually deserted the fancy. At one time it was stated that Wasp, Child, and Billy, who were of the Duke of Hamilton's strain, were the only remaining Bulldogs in existence, and that upon their decease the Bulldog would become extinct — a prophecy which all Bulldog lovers happily find incorrect. The specimens alive in 1817, as seen in prints of that period, were not so cloddy as those met with at the present day. But even now the outline of Rosa in the engraving of " Crib and Rosa " is considered to represent perfection in the shape, make, and size of the ideal type of Bulldog. The only objections which have been taken are that the bitch is deficient in wrinkles about the head and neck, and in substance of bone in the limbs. The commencement of the dog-show era in 1859 enabled classes to be provided for Bulldogs, and a fresh incentive to breed them was offered to the dog-fancier. In certain dis- tricts of the country, notably in London, Birmingham, Shef- field, Manchester, and Dudley, a number of fanciers resided, and it is to their efforts that we arc indebted for the varied 64 The Complete Book of the Dog specimens of the breed that are to be seen at the present time. The owner who wishes to trace back the pedigree of his Bulldog beyond its grandsire and granddam must have recourse to the invaluable pages of the Kennel Club Stud Book. If either of the immediate parents should be a champion the task of drawing up an extended pedigree ought not to be difficult. Almost every champion Bulldog of the past genera- tion has claimed connexion with one or more of the historic strains, and many can be followed back for a hundred years in direct and unbroken line of ancestry to the fountain-head in Turton's Crib and Berrie's Rose. Bulldog Strains. — Each of the recognized strains diverging from the original Crib — Rose source has been notable for cer- tain characteristic attributes. Bulldogs descended from Ch. Stockwell, for example, have been distinguished for their good heads and bodies. Those derived from the Don Salano strain have always been recognized by their lowness to ground, well defined but sometimes small skulls, and good body properties. The Bruce strain is noted in particular for its long skulls showing the desired points of great distance between the eyes and from eyes to ears, the ears being commendably small and usually set neatly on the head. The King Orry strain is remarkable for producing offspring with big long skulls having good layback, well turned-up under jaws and neat ears, the bodies also being of good shape. Of later date than these is the Prisoner strain. It has certain well-defined characteristics, notably the extreme width and turn-up of under] aw, large skull, well brokcn-up face and sound, evenly balanced body. The ears in this family, however, are in- clined to heaviness. Lastly, there is the sensational strain founded by Mr. Walter Jefferies, the skilled breeder of Ch. Rodney Stone. Not only was Rodney Stone in himself a magnificent Bulldog, but he has been the progenitor of many champions, all of them distinguished for uniform good qualities in wide fronts, small ears, long large skulls with plenty of cushion and good turn-up of under] aw. The bodies of the Stone strain as a rule are especially good, although in some cases there is a tendency to sink the first rib behind the shoulder. In the opinion of many judges the Rodney Stone MK. AND MRS. ARTHUR MAYORS DULLDOG CH. SILENT DUCHESS. The Native British Dogs strain is superlative, and it ought not to be crossed with any other blood. The value of adhering to a determined strain is indisputable. At the same time it must be understood that many champion Bulldogs of recent years — Nuthurst Doctor, Kitty Royal, and Silent Duchess, and, later still, Caulfield Monarch — have owed little to a rigid adherence to particular strains, but were the successful products of outcrosses scientifically mingled. I must here emphasize the opinion that no amateur breeder of the Bulldog should attempt an experiment with an out- cross. Unless he has prepared himself by years of study and experience, no breeder can hope to succeed. The pro- duction of a perfect Bulldog is never a matter of haphazard chance. The credit must go to the scientific operator who has studied the antecedents and idiosyncrasies of the various strains employed. For the following very carefully compiled description of the points of the Bulldog I am indebted to Mr. W. J. Stubbs, one of the most expert judges and handlers of the breed. It should be considered in conjunction with the portrait of Ch. Silent Duchess, who was acknowledged to be the most perfect Bulldog of her own or any other time. Description and Points ol tlie Perfect Bulldog. — General Appearance : In forming a judgment of a Bulldog the general appearance is of most im- portance, as the various points of the dog should be symmetrical and well balanced, no one point being in excess of the others so as to destroy the impression of determination, strength, and activity which is conveyed by the typical specimen. His JBody should be thickset, rather low in stature, but broad, powerful, and compact. The Head should be strikingly massive and large in proportion to the dog's size. It cannot be too large so long as it is square ; that is, it must not be wider than it is deep. The larger the head in circumference, caused by the prominent cheeks, the greater the quan- tity of muscle to hold the jaws together. The head should be of great depth from the occiput to the base of the lower jaw, and should not in any way be wedge-shaped, dome-shaped, or peaked. In circiuuference the skull should measure in front of the ears at least the height of the dog at the shoulders. The cheeks should be well rounded, extend sideways beyond the eyes, and be well furnished with muscle. Length of skull — that is, the dis- tance between the eye and the ear — is very desirable. The forehead should be flat, and the skin upon it and about the head very loose, hanging in large wrinkles. The temples, or frontal bones, should be very prominent, broad, square and high, causing a wide and deep groove known as the " stop " between the eyes, and should extend up the middle of the forehead, dividing the head vertically, being traceable at the top of the skull. The expression " well broken-up " is used where this stop and furrow are well marked, and if there is the attendant looseness of slun the animal's expression is well finished. The Face, when measured from the front of the cheek-bone to the nose, should be short, and its skin should be deeply and closely wrinkled. F 66 The Complete Book of the Dog Excessive shortness of face is not natural, and can only be obtained by the sacrifice of the " chop." Such shortness of face makes the dog appear smaller in head and less formidable than he otherwise would be. Formerly this shortness of face was artificially obtained by the use of the " jack," an atrocious form of torture, by which an iron instrument was used to force back the face by means of thumbscrews. The Nose should be rough, large, broad, and black, and this colour should extend to the lower lip ; its top should be deeply set back, almost between the eyes. The distance from the inner comer of the eye to the extreme tip of the nose should not be greater than the length from the tip of the nose to the edge of the under lip. The nostrils should be large and wide, with a well-defined straight line visible between them. The largeness of nostril, which is a very desirable property, is possessed by few of the recent prizewinners. Layback : When viewed in profile the tip of the nose should touch an imaginary line drawn from the extremity of the lower jaw to the top of the centre of the skull. This angle of the nose and face is known as the layback, and can only properly be ascertained by viewing the dog from the side. The inclination backward of the nose allows a free passage of the air into the nostrils whilst the dog is holding his quarry. It is apparent that if the mouth did not project beyond the nose, the nostrils would be flat against the part to which the dog was fixed, and breathing would then be stopped. Mouth: The upper lip, called the " chop," or Hews, should be thick, broad, pendent and very deep, hanging completely over the lower jaw at the sides, but only just joining the under lip in front, yet covering the teeth completely. The amount of " cushion " which a dog may have is dependent upon the thickness of the flews. The lips should not be pendulous. Jaws : The upper jaw should be broad, massive, and square, the tusks being wide apart, whilst the lower jaw, being turned upwards, should project in front of the upper. The teeth should be large and strong, and the six small teeth between the tusks should be in an even row. The upper jaw cannot be too broad between the tusks. If the upper and lower jaws are level, and the muzzle is not turned upwards, the dog is said to be " down-faced," whilst if the underjaw is not undershot he is said to be " froggy." A " wry-faced " dog is one having the lower jaw twisted, and this deformity so detracts from the general appearance of the dog as seriously to handicap him. The underjaw projects beyond the upper in order to allow the dog, when running directly to the front, to grasp the bull, and, when fixed, to give him a firmer hold. The eyes, seen from the front, should be situated low down in the skull, as far from the ears, the nose, and each other as possible, but quite in front of the forehead, so long as their corners are in a straight line at right angles with the stop, and in front of the forehead. They .should be a little above the level of the base of the nasal bone, and should be quite round in shape, of moderate size, neither sunken nor prominent, and be as black in colour as possible — almost, if not quite, black, showing no white when looking directly to the front. Ears : A good deal of a Bulldog's appearance depends on the quahty, shape, and carriage of his ears. They should be small and tliin, and set high on the head ; that is, the front inner edge of each ear should, as viewed from the front, join the outline of the skull at the top comer of such outline, so as to place them as wide apart, as high, and as far from the eyes as possible. The shape should be that which is known as " rose," in which the ear folds inwards at the back, the upper or front edge curving over outwards and backwards, showing part of the inside of the burr. If the ears are placed low on tlie skull they give an appleheaded appearance to the dog. If the ear falls in front, hiding the interior, as is the case with a Fox-terrier, it is said to " button," and this type is highly objectionable. Unfortunately, within the last few years the " button " and " semi-tulip " ear have been rather prevalent. If the ear is carried erect it is known as a " tulip " ear, and tliis form also is objectionable Nevertheless, at the beginning of the nineteenth century two out of every three dogs possessed ears of this description. Neck and Body: The neck sliould be moderate in length, very thick, deep, muscular, and short, but of The Native British Dogs 67 sufficient length to allow it to be well arched at the back, commencing at the junction with the skull. There should be plenty of loose, thick, and wrinkled skin about the throat, forming a dewlap on each side from the lower jaw to the chest. The chest should be very wide laterally, round, prominent, and deep, making the dog appear very broad and short-legged in front. The shoulders should be broad, the blades sloping considerably from the body ; they should be deep, very powerful, and muscular, and should be flat at the top and play loosely from the chest. The brisket should be capacious, round, and very deep from the shoulder to the lowest part, where it joins the chest, and be well let down between the forelegs. It should be large in diameter, and round behind the forelegs, neither flat-sided nor sinking, which it will not do provided that the first and succeeding ribs are well rounded. The belly should be well tucked up and not pendulous, a small narrow waist being greatly admired. The desired object in body formation is to obtain great girth at the brisket, and the smallest possible around the waist ; that is, the loins should be arched very high, when the dog is said to have a good " cut-up." The back should be short and strong, very broad at the shoulder and comparatively narrow at the loins. The back should rise behind the shoulders in a graceful curve to the loins, the top of which should be higher than the top of the shoulders, thence curving again more suddenly to the tail, fonning an arch known as the " roach " back, which is essentially a characteristic of the breed, though, unfortunately, many leading prize- winners of the present day are entirely deficient in this respect. Some dogs dip very considerably some distance behind the shoulders before the up- ward curve of the spine begins, and these are known as " swamp-backed " ; others rise in an almost straight line to the root of the tail, and are known as " stern-high." Tail : The tail should be set on low, jut out rather straight, then turn downwards, the end pointing horizontally. It should be qmte round in its whole length, smooth and devoid of fringe or coarse hair. It should be moderate in length, rather short than long, thick at the root, and taper quickly to a fine point. It should have a downward carriage, and the dog should not be able to raise it above the level of the backbone. The tail should not curve at the end, otherwise it is known as " ring-tailed." The ideal length of tail is about six inches. Many fanciers demand a " screw " or " kinked " tail, that is, one having congenital dislocations at the joints, but such appendages are not de.«irable in the best interests of the breed. Legs and Feet: The forelegs should be very stout and strong, set wide apart, thick, muscular, and short, with well-developed muscles in the calves, presenting a rather bowed outline, but the bones of the legs must be straight, large, and not bandy or curved. They should be rather short in proportion to the hind-legs, but not so short as to make the back appear long or detract from the dog's activity and so cripple him. The elbows should be low and stand well away from the ribs, to permit the body to swing between them. If tliis property be absent the dog is said to be " on the leg." The ankles or pasterns should be short, straight, and strong. The forefeet should be straight and turn ver>' slightly outwards ; they should be of medium size and moderately roiind, not too long or narrow, whilst the toes should be thick, compact, and well split up, making the knuckles prominent and high. The hind-legs, though of slighter build than the forelegs, should be strong and muscular. They should be longer, in proportion, than the forelegs in order to elevate the loins. The stifles should be round and turned slightly outwards, away from the body, thus bending the hocks inwards and the hind-feet outwards. The hocks should be well let down, so that the leg is long and muscular from the loins to the point of the hock, \«^hich makes the pasterns short, but these should not be so short as those of the forelegs. The hind-feet, whilst being smaller than the forefeet, should be round and compact, with the toes well split up, and the knuckles prominent. Colour and Coat : The coat should be fine in texture, short, close, and smooth, silky when stroked from the head towards the tail owing to its closeness, but not wiry when stroked in the reverse direction. The 68 The Complete Book of the Dog colour should be whole or smut, the latter being a whole colour with a black mask or muzzle. It should be brilliant and pure of its sort. The colours in order of merit are, first, whole colours and smuts, viz., brindles, reds, white with their varieties, as whole fawns, fallows, etc., and, secondly, pied and mixed colours. Opinions differ considerably on the colour question ; one judge will set back a fawn and put forward a pied dog, whilst others will do the reverse. Occasionally one comes across specimens having a black-and- tan colour, which, although not mentioned in the recognized standard as being debarred, do not as a rule figure in the prize list. Some of the best specimens which the writer has seen have been black-and-tans. Granted that the colour is objectionable, a dog which scores in all other properties should not be put down for this point alone, seeing that in the dog-fighting days there were many specimens of this colour. Action : In action the Bull- dog should have a peculiarly heavy and constrained gait, a rolling, or " slouching " movement, appearing to walk with short, quick steps on the tip of his toes, his hind-feet not being lifted high but appearing to skim the ground, and running with the right shoulder rather advanced, similar to the manner of a horse when cantering. In stature he should be low to the ground, broad and compact, the body being carried between and not on the forelegs. He should stand over a great deal of ground, and have the ap- pearance of immense power. The height of the foreleg should not exceed the distance from the elbow to the centre of the back, between the shoulder- blades. Considerable importance is attached to the freedom and activity displayed by the animal in its movements. Deformed joints, or weakness, are very objectionable. The head should be strikingly massive and carried low, the face short, the muzzle very broad, blunt, and inclined upwards. The body should be short and well-knit, the limbs stout and muscular. The hind-quarters should be very high and strong, but rather lightly made in comparison with the heavily made fore-parts. The most desirable weight for a Bulldog is about 50 lb. STANDARD OF POINTS Chop . Face Stop Skull . Eyes . Ears Chest and neck Shoulders Body . Back . Legs . Size Coat . Tail General appearance Tota: 5 5 5 5 15 5 5 5 5 5 5 ID 5 5 5 10 It must be acknowledged that there are many strains of this breed which are constitutionally unsound. For this reason it is important that the novice should give very careful consideration to his first purchase of a Bulldog. He should ascertain beyond all doubt, not only that his proposed pur- The Native British Dogs 69 chase is itself sound in wind and limb, but that its sire and dam are, and have been, in similarl}^ healthy condition. The dog to be chosen should be physically strong and show pronounced muscular development. If these requirements are present and the dog is in no sense a contradiction of the good qualities of its progenitors, but a justification of its pedigree, care and good treatment will do the rest. It is to be remembered, however, that a Bulldog may be improved by judicious exercise. When at exercise, or taking a walk with his owner, the young dog should always be held by a leash. He will invariably pull vigorously against this restraint, but such action is beneficial, as it tends to develop the muscles of the shoulders and front of the body. When taking up the Bulldog fancy, nine out of every ten novices choose to purchase a male. The contrary course should be adopted. The female is an equally good com- panion in the house or on the road ; she is not less affection- ate and faithful ; and when the inevitable desire to attempt to reproduce the species is reached the beginner has the means at once available. It is always difficult for the uninitiated to select what is likely to be a good dog from the nest. In choosing a puppy cate should be taken to ensure it has plenty of bone in its limbs, and these should be fairly short and wide ; the nos- trils should be large and the face as short as possible. The chop should be thick and heavily wrinkled and the mouth square. There should be a distinct indent in the upper jaw, where the bone will eventually curve, whilst the lower jaw should show signs of curvature and protrude slightly in front of the upper jaw. The teeth from canine to canine, including the six front teeth, should be in a straight line. See that the ears are very small and thin, and the eyes set well apart. The puppy having these properties, together with a domed, peaked, or " coconut "-shaped skull, is the one which, in nine cases out of ten, will eventually make the best headed dog of the litter. The breeding of Bulldogs requires unlimited patience, as success is very difficult to attain. The breeder who can rear five out of every ten puppies born may be considered fortu- nate. It is frequently found in what appears to be a healthy 70 The Complete Book of the Dog lot of puppies that some of them begin to whine and whimper towards the end of the first day. It may be that the cause is due to some acidity of the milk, but in such a case one would expect that similar difficulty would be experienced with the remainder of the litter, but this is not the usual result. Provided that the puppies can be kept alive until the fourth day, it may be taken that the chances are well in favour of ultimate success. Many breeders object to feeding the mother with meat at this time, but Mr. Jefferies once had two Utter sisters who whelped on the same day, and he decided to try the effect of a meat versus farinaceous diet upon them. As a result the bitch who was freely fed with raw beef reared a stronger lot of puppies, showing better developed bone, than did the one who was fed on milk and cereals. Similarly, in order that the puppy, after weaning, may develop plenty of bone and muscle, it is advisable to feed once a day upon finely minced raw meat. There are some successful breeders, indeed, who invariably give to each puppy a teaspoonful of cod-liver oil in the morning and a similar dose of extract of malt in the evening, with the result that there are never any rickety or weak dogs in the kennels, whilst the develop- ment of the bones in the skull and limbs is most pronounced. Owing to their lethargic disposition, young Bulldogs are somewhat liable to indigestion, and during the period of puppyhood it is of advantage to give them a tablespoonful of lime water once a day in their milk food. Many novices are in doubt as to the best time to breed from a Bull bitch, seeing that oestrum is present before she is fully developed. It may be taken as practically certain that it is better for her to be allowed to breed at her first heat. Nature has so arranged matters that a Bull bitch is not firmly set in her bones until she reaches an age of from twelve to eighteen months, and therefore she will have less difficulty in giving birth to her offspring if she be allowed to breed at this time. The best time of the year for puppies to be born is in the spring, when, owing to the approaching warm weather, they can lead an outdoor life. By the time they are six months old they should have sufficient stamina to enable The Native British Dogs 71 them to withstand the cold of the succeeding winter. It has been ascertained that Bulldogs which have been reared out of doors are the least liable to suffer from indigestion, torpidity of the liver, asthma or other chest ailments, whilst they invariably have the hardiest constitution. Bulldogs generally require liberal feeding, and should have a meal of dry biscuit the first thing in the morning, whilst the evening meal should consist of a good stew of butcher's offal poured over broken biscuit, bread, or other cereal food. In the winter time it is advantageous to soak a table- spoonful of linseed in water overnight, and after the pods have opened to turn the resulting jelly into the stew pot. This ensures a fine glossy coat, and is of value in toning up the intestines. Care must, however, be taken not to follow this practice to excess in warm weather, as the heating nature of the linseed will eventually cause skin trouble. With these special points attended to, the novice should find no difficulty in successfully becoming a Bulldog fancier, owner, and breeder. Finally, it cannot be too widely known that the Bulldog is one of the very few breeds which can, with perfect safety, be trusted alone to the mercy of children. CHAPTER VI The Larger Non-Sporting Breeds St. Bernards — Newfoundlands — The Great Dane — The Dalmatian The St. Bernard. — The St. Bernard is a mountain dog, de- scended from the Alpine Mastiffs which were kept at the Hospice of Great St. Bernard in Switzerland, where they were trained to go over the mountains to the succour of travellers who had either lost their way or been overcome by the cold. The dogs were sent out carrying blankets strapped round their bodies and a small barrel containing restoratives hung from their necks. They were trained in tracking, and their keen sense of smell helped them to dis- cover wayfarers buried in the snow. In this way they saved many lives. One historic dog named Barry is believed to have rescued no fewer than forty wanderers who had lost their way in crossing the Alps in the neighbourhood of St. Bernard. His stuffed skin, which may be seen in the museum at Berne, indicates that he was not a very massive dog or particularly beautiful. The dogs which are still kept at the Hospice are very different in type from the St. Bernards of Great Britain. But as often as not the monks have been content with a cross-breed. At one time, when their kennels were rendered vacant from the combined catastrophes of distemper and an avalanche which had swept away nearly all their hounds, they had recourse to a cross with the Landseer Newfound- land and the white, rough-coated Pyrenean Sheepdog, the latter not unlike the St. Bernard in size and appearance. Then, again, at some time the Bloodhound has been intro- duced, and it is certain that almost all the most celebrated St. Bernards of Great Britain have been closely allied to the EngUsh Mastiff. The result of all this intermixture of different breeds has been 72 The Larger Non-Sporting Breeds 73 the production of an exceedingly fine race of dogs, beautiful in shape, formidable in size, and most attractive in colour. As a watch-dog the St. Bernard has all the merits of the Mastiff, and when a large dog is desired there is none to surpass him as a companion. Most docile in temperament and disposition, he must yet be treated with consideration. The St. Bernard is sensitive to a degree, and seldom forgets an insult, which he resents with dignity. The dogs at the Hospice of Great St. Bernard are small and weedy in comparison with those that are seen in Great Britain. The good Fathers were more particular about their markings than great size. The body colour should be brindle or orange tawny, with white markings ; the muzzle white, with a line running up between the eyes and over the skull, joining at the back the white collar that encircles the neck down to the front of the shoulders. The colour round the eyes and on the ears should be of a darker shade in the red ; in the centre of the white line at the occiput there should be a spot of colour. These markings are said to represent the stole, chasuble and scapular which form part of the vestments worn by the monks. But it is seldom that the markings are so clearly defined ; they are more often white, with brindle or orange patches on the body, with evenly- marked heads. With us, St. Bernards are cither distinctly rough in coat or smooth, but the generaUty of the Hospice dogs are broken in coat, having a texture between the two extremes. The properties, however, of the rough and smooth are the same, so that the two varieties are often bred together, and, as a rule, both textures of coat will be the result of the alliance. The late M. Schumacher, a great authority on the breed in Switzerland, averred that dogs with very rough coats were found to be of no use for work on the Alps, as their thick covering became so loaded with snow and their feet so clogged that they succumbed under the weight and perished. On that account they were discarded by the monks. It was the Rev. Gumming Macdona who first introduced the breed into England in any number, and when competitive exhibitions of dogs were established the St. Bernard came quickly into prominence. Mr. Macdona's celebrated Tell 74 The Complete Book of the Dog formed the foundation of his magnificent kennel at West Kirby, in Cheshire. At a dog show at Cremorne held in 1863, two St. Bernards were exhibited, each of whom rejoiced in the name of Monk, and were, respectively, the property of the Rev. A. N. Bate and Mr. W. H. Stone. These dogs were exhibited without pedigrees, but were said to have been bred at the Hospice of St. Bernard. Three years later, at the National Show at Birmingham, a separate class was provided for the saintly breed, and Mr. Gumming Macdona was first and second with Tell and Bernard. This led to an immediate popularity of the St. Bernard. The names of Tell and Bernard have been handed down to fame, the former as the progenitor of a long line of rough- coated offspring ; the latter as one of the founders of the famous Shefford Kennel, kept by Mr. Fred Gresham, who probably contributed more to the perfecting of the St. Bernard than any other breeder. His Birnie, Monk, Abbess, Grosvenor, Hector, and Shah are names which appear in the pedigrees of most of the best dogs of more recent times. When Mr. Gresham drew his long record of success to a close there came a lull in the popularity of the breed until Dr. Inman, in partnership with Mr. B. Walmsley, established a kennel first at Barford, near Bath, and then at The Priory, at Bowden, in Cheshire, where they succeeded in breeding the finest kennel of St. Bernards that has ever been seen in the world. Dr. Inman had for several years owned good dogs, and set about the work on scientific principles. He, in conjunction with Mr. Walmsley, purchased the smooth-coated Kenilworth from Mr. Loft, bred that dog's produce with a brindle Mastiff of high repute, and then crossed back to his St. Bernards with the most successful results. The dogs bred at Bowden carried all before them in the show ring, and were continually in request for stud purposes, improving the breed to a remark- able extent. Dr. Inman was instrumental in forming the National St. Bernard Club. At the disposal of Messrs. Inman and Walmsley's kennel, there were such admirable dogs as the rough-coated Wolfram — from whom were bred Tannhauscr, Narcissus, Leontes, and Klingsor ; the smooth-coated dogs The King's Son and The I'liotograph by C. Keiti, U'ls/ian- Mr. G. Sinclair's Rough coated St. Bernard Ch. Lord Montgomery. Inman's Smooth-coated St. Bernard Ch. The Viking. riiotograf'h ry II '. H. StiicK: Mrs. A. H. Parker's Rcmgh-coated St. Bernard Ch. Cinq Mars. The Larger Non-Sporting Breeds 75 Viking ; the rough-coated bitch Judith Inman, and the smooth Viola, the last-named the linest specimen of her sex that has probably ever been seen. These dogs and bitches, with several others, were dispersed all over England, with the exception of Klingsor, who went to South Africa. During the Great War most of our larger breeds of the dog suffered, and breeding operations came almost to a com- plete standstill. Within the past year or two they have been renewed, but no St. Bernard of very conspicuous merit has yet taken the place of the exceedingly good ones that were prominent prior to the autumn of 1914. Perhaps the best just at present is Miss A. Waller's Ch. Lady Juliet, whose offspring seem likely to restore the breed to its former high position. Ch. King's Mark of Tynebank was the best of these, but he, alas ! died in 1921 when only two years old. The following is the description of the St. Bernard as drawn up by the members of the St. Bernard Club : Head : The head should be large and massive, the circumference of the skull being more than double the length of the head from nose to occiput. From stop to tip of nose should be moderately short ; full below the eye and square at the muzzle ; there should be great depth from the eye to the lower jaw, and the hps should be deep throughout, but not too pendulous. From the nose to the stop should be straight, and the stop abrupt and well defined. The skull should be broad and rounded at the top, but not domed, with somewhat prominent brow. Ears : The ears should be of medium size, lying close to the cheek, but strong at the base and not heavily feathered. Eyes : The eyes should be rather small and deep set, dark in colour and not too close together ; the lower eyelid should droop, so as to show a fair amount of haw. Nose : The nose should be large and black, with well-developed nostrils. The teeth should be level. Expression : The expression should betoken benevolence, dignity, and intelligence. Neck : The neck should be lengthy, muscular, and slightly arched, with dewlap developed, and the shoulders broad and sloping, well up at the withers. General Description of Body : The chest should be wide and deep, and the back level as far as the haunches, slightly arched over the loins ; the ribs should be well rounded and carried well back ; the loin wide and very muscular. Tail : The tail should be set on rather high, long, and in the long-coated variety bushy ; carried low when in repose, and when excited or in motion slightly above the line of the back. Legs : The forelegs should be perfectly straight strong in bone, and of good length ; and the hind-legs very muscular. The feet large, compact, with well-arched toes. Size : A dog should be at least 30 inches in height at the shoulder, and a bitch 27 inches (the taller the better, pro\'ided the symmetry is maintained) ; thoroughly well propor- tioned, and of great substance. The general outline should suggest great power and capabiUty of endurance. Coat : In the long-coated variety the coat should be dense and flat ; rather fuller rovmd the neck ; the thighs feathered but not too heavily. In the short-coated variety, the coat should be dense, hard, flat, and short, slightly feathered on thighs and tail. Colour and Markings : The colour should be red, orange, various shades of brindle (the richer colour the better), or white with patches on body of one of the 76 The Complete Book of the Dog above-named colours. The markings should be as follows: white muzzle, white blaze up face, white collar round neck ; white chest, forelegs, feet, and end of tail ; black shadings on face and ears. If the blaze be wide and rvms through to the collar, a spot of the body colour on the top of the head is desirable. The weight of a dog should be from 170 lb. to 210 lb. ; of a bitch 160 lb. to 190 lb. During the past generation St. Bernards have been bred in this country very much taller and heavier than they were in the days of Tell, Hope, Moltke, Monk, Hector, and Othman. Not one of these measured over 32 inches in height, or scaled over 180 lb., but the increased height and greater weight of the more modern production have been obtained by forcing them as puppies and by fattening them to such an extent that they have been injured in constitution, and in many cases converted into cripples behind. The prize winning rough-coated St. Bernard, as he is seen to-day, is a purely manufactured animal, handsome in appearance certainly, but so cumbersome that he is scarcely able to raise a trot, let alone do any tracking in the snow. The Newfoundland. — The dogs which take their name from the island of Newfoundland appeal to all lovers of animals, romance, and beauty. A Newfoundland formed the subject of perhaps the most popular picture painted by Sir Edwin Landseer ; a monument was erected by Byron over the grave of his Newfoundland in proximity to the place where the poet himself hoped to be buried, at Newstead Abbey, and the inscription on his monument contains the lines so frequently quoted : But the poor dog in life the firmest friend. The first to welcome, foremost to defend, Whose honest heart is still his master's own. Who labours, fights, lives, breathes for him alone. To mark a friend's remains these stones arise : I never knew but one, and here he lies. Robert Burns, also, in his poem, " The Twa Dogs," written in 1786, refers to a Newfoundland as being an aristocrat among dogs. Doubtless, other breeds of dogs have been the subjects of popular pictures and have had their praises sung by poets, but the Newfoundlands have yet a further honour, The Larger Non-Sporting Breeds 77 unique amongst dogs, in being the subject for a postage stamp of their native land. Landseer's " Distinguished Member of the Humane Society " was painted in 1838, and, as almost everyone knows, repre- sents a white and black Newfoundland. The dog portrayed was typical, and after a lapse of over eighty years, the paint- ing has now the added value of enabling us to make a com- parison with specimens of the breed as it exists to-day. Such a comparison will show that among the best dogs of recent times are some which might have been the model for this picture. It is true that in the interval the white and black Newfoundlands have been coarser, heavier, higher on the legs, with an expression denoting excitability quite foreign to the true breed,but these departures from Newfoundland char- acter are passing away — it is to be hoped for good. The breed is returning to the type which Landseer's picture represents — a dog of great beauty, dignity, and benevolence of character. A generation ago there was considerable discussion among owners of Newfoundlands as to the proper colour of the true breed, and there were many persons who claimed, as some still claim, that the black is the only true variety, and that the white and black colouring indicates a cross-breed. Again Landseer's picture is of value, because, in the first place, we may be almost certain that he would have selected for such a picture a typical specimen, and, secondly, because the picture shows, nearly half a century prior to the discussion, a white and black dog, typical in nearly every respect, except colour, of the black Newfoundland. There is no appearance of cross-breeding in Landseer's dog ; on the contrary, he reveals all the characteristics of a thoroughbred. Eighty \'ears ago, therefore, the white and black variety may be fairly considered to have been established, and it is worthy of mention here that " Idstone " quoted an article written in 1819 stating that back in the eighteenth century Newfound- lands were large, rough-coated, liver and white dogs. It is clear, also, that in 1832 Newfoundlands in British North America were of various colours. Additional evidence, too, is provided in the fact that when selecting the type of head for their postage stamp the Government of Newfoundland chose the Landseer dog. Therefore, there are very strong 78 The Complete Book of the Dog arguments against the claim that the true variety is essentially black. However that may be, there are now two established varieties, the black and the white and black. There are also bronze-coloured dogs, but they are rare and are not favoured. It is stated, however, that puppies of that colour are generally the most promising in all other respects. The following description of the Newfoundland, embodying the Club standard, is compiled by Major J, H. Bailey, whose knowledge of the breed is unique : Points of the Newfoundland. — Colour : The black variety of the New- foundland is essentially black in colour ; but this does not mean that there may be no other colour, for most black Newfoundlands have some white marks, and these are not considered objectionable, so long as they are limited to white hairs on the chest, toes, or the tip of the tail. In fact, a white marking on the chest is said to be typical of the true breed. Any white on the head or body would place the dog in the other than black variety. The black colour should preferably be of a dull jet appearance which approximates to brown. In the other than black class, there may be black and tan, bronze, and white and black. The latter predominates, and, in this colour, beauty of marking is very important. The head should be black with a white muzzle and blaze, and the body and legs should be white with large patches of black on the saddle and quarters, with possibly other small black spots on the body and legs. Apart from colour, the varieties should conform to the same stand- ard. The Head should be broad and massive, but in no sense heavy in ap- pearance. The muzzle should be short, square, and clean cut, Eyes rather wide apart, deep set, dark and small, not showing any haw ; Ears small, with close side carriage, covered with fine short hair (ther6 should be no fringe to the ears). Expression full of intelligence, dignity, and kindness. The Body should be long, square, and massive, loins strong and well filled ; chest deep and broad ; Legs quite straight, somewhat short in proportion to the length of the body, and powerful, with round bone well covered with muscle ; feet large, round," and close. The Tail should be only long enough to reach just below the hocks, free from kink, and never curled over the back. The quality of the Coat is very important ; the coat should be very dense, with plenty of undercoat ; the outer coat somewhat harsh and quite straight. A curly coat is very objectionable. A dog with a good coat may be in the water for a considerable time without getting wet on the skin. The Appearance Generally should indicate a dog of great strength, and very active for his build and size, moving freely with the body swung loosely between the legs, which gives a slight roll in gait. This has been compared to a sailor's roll, and is typical of the breed. As regards Size, the Newfoundland Club standard gives 140 lb. to 120 lb. weight for a dog, and no lb. to 120 lb. for a bitch, with an average height at the shoulder of 27 inches and 25 inches respectively ; but it is doubtful whether dogs in proper condition do conform to both re- quirements. At any rate, the writer is unable to trace any prominent New- foundlands which do, and it would be safe to assume that for dogs of the weights specified, the height should be quite 29 inches for dogs, and 27 inches for bitches. A dog weighing 150 lb. and measuring 29 inches in height at the shoulder would necessarily be long in body to be in proportion, and would probably much nearer approach the ideal form of a Newfoundland than a taller dog. In that respect Newfoundlands have very much improved" during the past quarter of a c«intury. Forty years ago, the most noted dogs were stated as a rule to be \tell over 30 inches in height, but their weight The Larger Non-Sporting Breeds 79 for height would indicate legginess, which is an abomiuation in a Newfound- land. A 29-inch Newfoundland is quite tall enough, and even that height should not be gained at the expense of type and symmetry. The white and black variety are, as a rule, slightly taller, smaller in loin and longer in head, but these differences in the two varieties are being rapidly removed, and at no distant date the white and black variety will probably be as correct in type and symmetry as the black variety now is. The Newfoundland Club scale of points is as follows : Head, 34 points : Shape of skull Ears .... Eyes .... Muzzle Body, 66 points : Neck .... Chest .... Shoulders Loin and back Hind-quarters and tail Legs and feet Coat .... Size, height and general appearance 8 10 4 6 4 12 10 10 12 S Total points . . .100 Among the notable champions of the past generation perhaps the most typical was Mr. J. J. Cooper's Ch. King Stuart, who excelled in the desired qualities of dome-shaped head, depth of stop, and expression. This black dog had an almost unparalleled record on the show bench. He was the sire of Mrs. Horsfield's very typical dog Ch. Bowden Per- fection, of Mr. Critchley's charming bitch Ch. Lady Buller, and the grandsire on both sire's and dam's side of Ch. Shelton Viking, bred by Mrs. Vale Nicolas. Miss Goodall's Ch. Gipsy Princess was an exceptionally large bitch bred by Mr. Haldenby from Ch. Wolf of Badenoch. Of the white and black variety Major Bailey's Ch. Prince of Norfolk was unquestionably the best specimen ever seen. He was a grandly proportioned dog, beautifully marked. He was very little used at stud, and his name appears in very few pedigrees ; but he was of the superlative type at which all Newfoundland breeders should aim if they want to restore the white and black variety to its deserved position. Women have been conspicuously successful as breeders of the Newfoundland. Mrs. Vale Nicolas, whose Ch. Shelton Viking is the illustration of this notice, has done a great deal for the breed in founding the Shelton strain of the black variety, 8o The Complete Book of the Dog and Miss Goodall's dogs with the " Gipsy " prefix have always been good. Mrs. J. J. Horsfield's name, too, in connexion with the Newfoundland is a guarantee of high quahty. In the white and black variety Mrs. W. A. Lindsay has met with considerable success. For very many years the black variety has been the better in type ; and in breeding, if blacks are desired, it will be safer as a general rule to insist upon the absence of white and black blood in any of the immediate ancestors of the sire and dam. But if, on the contrary, white and black dogs are required, the proper course is to make judicious crosses be- tween the two varieties, and destroy any black puppies, unless they are required for further crosses with white and black blood. In any case the first cross is likely to produce both black and mis-marked white and black puppies ; but the latter, if bred back to the white and black blood, would generally produce well-marked white and black Newfound- lands. In mating, never be guided solely by the good points of the dog and bitch. It is very desirable that they should both have good points, the more good ones the better, but it is more important to ensure that they are dissimilar in their defects, and, if possible, that in neither case is there a very objectionable defect, especially if such defect was also apparent in the animals' sire or dam. It is therefore important to study what were the good, and still more so the bad, points in the parents and grandparents. If these are not known, other Newfoundland breeders will willingly give information, and any trouble involved in tracing tlie knowledge required will be amply repaid in the results, and probably save great disappointment . When rearing puppies give them soft food, such as well- boiled rice and milk, as soon as they will lap, and, shortly afterwards, scraped lean meat. Newfoundland puppies re- quire plenty of meat to induce proper growth. The puppies should increase in weight at the rate of 3 lb. a week, and this necessitates plenty of flesh, bone and muscle-forming food, plenty of meat, both raw and cooked. Milk is also good, but it requires to be strengthened with Plasmon, or casein. The secret of growing full-sized dogs with plenty of bone The Larger Non-Sporting Breeds 8i and substance is to get a good start from birth, good feeding, warm, dry quarters, and freedom for the puppies to move about and exercise themselves as they wish. Forced exercise may make them go wrong on their legs. The Great Dane. — The origin of the Great Dane is so obscure that all researches have only resulted in speculative theories, but the antiquity of this dog is suggested by the fact that representations of a breed sufficiently similar to be considered his ancestors are found on some of the oldest Egyptian monuments. A few years ago a controversy arose on the breed's proper designation, when the Germans claimed for it the title " Deutsche Dogge." Germany had several varieties of big dogs, such as the Hatzriide, Sauf anger, Ulmer Dogge, and Rottweiler Metzgerhund ; but contemporaneously with these there existed, as in other countries in Europe, another very big breed, but much nobler and more thoroughbred, known as the Great Dane. He was introduced into this country spasmodically some forty-five years ago, when he was com- monly referred to as the Boarhound, or the German Mastiff, and for a time the breed had to undergo a probationary period in the " Foreign Class " at dog shows, but it soon gained in public favour, and in the early 'eighties a Great Dane Club was formed, and the breed has since become one of the most popular of the larger dogs. The Kennel Club has classed the Great Dane amongst the Non-Sporting dogs, probably because with us he cannot find a quarry worthy of his mettle ; but, for all that, he has the instincts and qualifications of a sporting dog, and he has proved himself particularly valuable for hunting big game in hot climates, which he stands very well. Respecting the temperament of the Great Dane and his suitabihty as a companion, writers have gone to extremes in praise and condemnation. In his favour it must be said that in natural intelligence he is surpassed by very few other dogs. He has a most imposing figure, and does not, like some other big breeds, slobber from his mouth, which is a particularly unpleasant peculiarity when a dog is kept in the house. On the other hand, it must be admitted that with almost the strength of a tiger he combines the excitability of a terrier, 82 The Complete Book of the Dog and no doubt a badly trained Great Dane is a very dangerous animal. It is not sufficient to teach him in the haphazard way which might be successful in getting a small dog under control, but even as a companion he ought to be trained systematically, and, considering his marked intelligence, this is not difficult of accomplishment. The Great Dane attains his full development in about a year and a half to two years, and, considering that puppies have to build up in that time a very big skeleton and straight limbs, special attention must be given to the rearing of them. The dam whelps frequently eight puppies, and sometimes even a few more. Mr. Larke's Princess Thor had a litter of seventeen, but even eight is too great a number for a bitch to suckle in a breed where great size is a desideratum. Not more than four, or at the outside five, should be left with the bitch ; the others should be put to a foster-mother, or, if they are weaklings or foul-marked, it is best to destroy them. After the puppies are weaned, their food should be of bone- making quality, and they require ample space for exercise and play. Nothing is worse than to take the youngsters for forced marches before their bones have become firm. The general characteristic of the Great Dane is a combina- tion of grace and power, and therefore the lightness of the Greyhound, as well as the heaviness of the Mastiff, must be avoided. The head should be powerful, but at the same time show quality by its nice modelUng. The eyes should be intelligent and vivacious, but not have the hard expression of the terrier. The distance between the eyes is of great importance ; if too wide apart they give the dog a stupid appearance, and if too close he has a treacherous look. Another very important point is the graceful carriage of the tail. When it is curled over the back it makes an otherwise handsome dog look mean, and a tail that curls at the end like a cork- screw is also very ugly. In former times " faking " was not infrequently resorted to to correct a faulty tail carriage, but it is easily detected. Great Danes sometimes injure the end of the tail by hitting it against hard substances, and those with a good carriage of tail are most liable to this because in excitement they slash it about, whereas the faulty position of the tail, curled over the back, ensures immunity from harm. The Larger Non-Sporting Breeds 83 The orthodox colours of the Great Dane are brindlc, fawn, blue, black and harlequin. In the brindle dogs the ground colour should be any shade from light yellow to dark red- yellow on which the brindle appears in darker stripes. The harlequins have on a pure white ground fairly large black patches, which must be of irregular shape, broken up as if they had been torn, and not have rounded outlines. When brindle Great Danes are continuously bred together, it has been found that they get darker, and that the peculiar " strip- ing " disappears, and in that case the introduction of a good fawn into the strain is advisable. The constant mating of harlequins has the tendency to make the black patches dis- appear, and the union with a good black Great Dane will prevent the loss of colour. Notably fine Great Danes among the early importations were the bitch Ch. Vendetta, whose height was 32 A inches at the shoulder. With her cropped ears she had the bold, frown- ing expression and commanding look which has been softened out from the more recent Danes. Hannibal and Colonia Bosco were mighty dogs in their time. The tallest of the Great Danes whose measurements are recorded was Chance, who stood 35 inches at the shoulder. Of recent years women have been prominent among the owners and breeders who have striven to keep perfect and to popularize this breed, and none has done more in this direction than Mrs. H. Hors- fall, who has sent forth many redoubtable champions. There are, indeed, few superlative Great Danes who do not owe relationship to the famous Redgrave strain. Viceroy of Red- grave and Viking, Vrelst, Vanguard and Viola of Redgrave are names to be coveted in all Great Dane pedigrees. Most of Mrs. Horsfall's champions have been brindles, and they mark the highest standard to which the breed has attained. It cannot be said that the Great Dane has yet regained the good quality which it possessed prior to 1915. The following is the official description issued by the Great Dane Club : General Appearance : The Great Dane is not so heavy or massive as the Mastiff, nor should he too nearly approach the Greyhound type. Remark- able in size and very muscular, strongly though elegantly built ; the head and neck should be carried high, and the tail in line with the back, or slightly upwards, but not curled over the hind-quarters. Elegance of outline and 84 The Complete Book of the Dog grace of form are most essential to a Dane ; size is absolutely necessary ; but there must be that alertness of expression and briskness of movement without which the Dane character is lost. He should have a look of dash and daring, of being ready to go anywhere and do anything. Teniperamevt : The Great Dane is good-tempered, affectionate, and faithful to his master, not demonstrative with strangers ; intelligent, courageous, and always alert. His value as a guard is unrivalled. He is easily controlled when well trained, but he may grow savage if confined too much, kept on chain, or ill treated. Height : The minimimi height of an adult dog should be 30 inches ; that of a bitch, 28 inches. Weight : The minimum weight of an adult dog should be 120 lb. ; that of a bitch, 100 lb. The greater height and weight to be pre- ferred, provided that qiiality and proportion are also combined. Head: Taken altogether, the head should give the idea of great length and strength of jaw. The muzzle, or foreface, is broad, and the skull proportionately narrow, so that the whole head, when viewed from above and in front, has the appearance of equal breadth throughout. Length of Head : The entire length of head varies with the height of the dog, 13 inches from the tip of the nose to the back of the occiput is a good measurement for a dog of 32 inches at the shoulder. The length from the end of the nose to the point between the eyes should be about equal, or preferably of greater length than from this point to the back of the occiput. Skxill : The skull should be flat rather than domed, and have a slight indentation running up the centre, the occipital peak not prominent. There should be a decided rise or brow over the eyes, but no abrupt stop between them. Face : The face should be chiselled well and foreface long, of equal depth throughout, and well filled in below the eyes with no appearance of being pinched. Mj4scles of the Cheek : The niuscles of the cheeks should be quite flat, with no lumpiness or cheek bumps, the angle of the jaw-bone well defined. Lips : The lips should hang quite square in front, forming a right angle with the upper line of fore- face. Underline : The underline of the head, viewed in profile, runs almost in a straight line from the corner of the lip to the corner of the jaw-bone, allowing for the fold of the lip, but with no loose skin to hang down. Jaw : The lower jaw should be about level, or at any rate not project more than the sixteenth of an inch. Nose and Nostrils : The bridge of the nose should be very wide, with a slight ridge where the cartilage joins the bone (this is quite a characteristic of the breed). The nostrils should be large, wide and open, giving a blunt look to the nose. A butterfly or flesh-coloured nose is not objected to in harlequins. Ears: The ears should be small, set high on the skull, and carried slightly erect, with the tips falling for^vard. Neck : Next to the head, the neck is one of the chief characteristics. It should be long, well arched, and quite clean and free from loose skin, held well up, snakelike in carriage, well set in the shoulders, and the junction of head and neck well defined. Shoulders : The shoulders should be muscular but not loaded, and well sloped back, with the elbows well luidcr the body, so that, when viewed in front, the dog docs not stand too wide. Forelegs and Feet : The forelegs should be perfectly straight, with big flat bone, the feet large and round, the toes well arched and close, the nails strong and curved. Body : The body is very deep witli ribs well sprung and belly well drawn up. Back and Loins : The back and loins are strong, the latter slightly arched, as in the Greyhound. Hind-quarters : The hind-cjuarters and thighs are extremely muscular, giving the idea of great strength and galloping power. The second thigh is long and well developed as in a Greyhound, and the hocks set low, tuniing neither out nor in. Tail : The tail is strong at the root and ends in a fine point, reaching to or just below the hocks. It should be carried when the dog is in action, in a straight line level with the back, slightly curved towards the end, but .should not curl over the back. Coat : The hair is short and dense, and sleek-looking, and in no case should it incline to coarseness. Gait or Action: The gait should be lithe, springy, and free, the action high. The hocks should move very freely, and the head should 1)e held well up. Colour : The colours are brindle, fawn, blue, black, and harlequin. The F/ioto^ra/>/i by Tom Rez'eley. Dalmatian Ch. Rugby Britannia. Bred bv Mrs. Hebe Bedwell. Photogrnpli l', and fitting close over the teeth, which should be particularly strong, fitting together like scissors, and not overshot. The Ears are medium in size, broad at the base and set high on the head. They should be alertly pricked, running out sharply on the ends and pointing for- ward. Each ear should resemble the half shell of an almond in shape. The ears may have soft tips, but breeding for prick ears is desired, although this has no effect on the dog's usefulness. The Eyes should be medium in size, almond shaped, set somewhat on the angle, and not protruding ; dark in colour. The eye must show spirit and understanding, with searching, sus- picious glances at strangers. Neck should be strong, with well-developed muscles, medium in length, without dewlap or throatiness. When excited the crest should rise, otlien\'ise stand out straight. Body : Deep chest, but not too broad, ribs flat, belly slightly drawn up, back straight and strongly developed. The body lengtli should slightly exceed the height at shoulder. Short-bodied, long-legged dogs should not be bred. The Alsatian should not be excitable. The necessary movements for tending sheep are ensured through good development of the angles in the hind-quarters. The rear portion of the dog's back broad and strong. The middle portion of the back long and falling off before the hind portion. Tail : Bushy with thick hair. At rest it hangs in a slight curve to the hock, and is often slightly curved to one side. When excited it is raised and more curved, but should not rise above the level of the back. Foreqiiarters : Shoulders sloping well back ; should lie flat and be well muscled but not loaded. The forelegs should be perfectly straight. Hind-quarters : Should be broad, with powerful muscles. The stifle well turned, fairly long, and, viewed from the side, dropping at an angle to the hocks. The hocks should be strong and well let down. Feet : Round, short ; toes arched and held closely together. Pads particularly hard, nails short and strong, and dark in colour. Dew-claws are not a fault, but should be removed at birth, as they often interfere with the dog's gait. Colour and Coat : Black, iron-grey, silver-grey, tan, yellow, either whole colour or toning into lighter colours, pure white, blue, or tiger colour, or with the so- called wolf colour. White on breast and legs allowed. The undercoat, excepting in pure black specimens, is always somewhat lighter than the outer coat, which should be harsh in texture but smooth. The dense wooUy undercoat is important, as the Alsatian must stand all weathers. Faults : The faults in build, which hinder the usefulness and power of endurance of the dog, are chiefly long legs, short bodies, too light or too heavy. Soft, weak backs, lack of angles in the leg bones and thin light bones, preventing elasticity in locomotion. Soft or too short coat and lack of underwool. Heavy or shallow skull ; short, dull or weak pointed teeth and undershot or overshot jaw. Spreading toes. Hanging or continually badly carried ears, badly carried tail or artificially treated ears and tail. A low-hung stem generally accompanies well-turned hind- quarters. To develop his working properties the dog should be taught in puppyhood to retrieve with enthusiasm, and it is advisable to give him daily exercise in quick turning by 124 The Complete Book of the Dog pretending to throw the ball in opposite directions, making him wheel quickly. Trotting exercise is very necessary. A dog of 23 inches at the shoulder should easily trot 20 miles at 8^ miles an hour without breaking into a gallop. A characteristic of the Alsatian is his exclusiveness. He attaches himself to one person only, and it is difficult to get him even to accept food from anyone but his master or mis- tress. The risk of his being maliciously poisoned is reduced by this dependence upon his owner, and his chances of a long and healthy life are enhanced. His devotion to his especial friend shows itself in implicit obedience, and very few lessons are needed in making him understand what is wanted of him. He is a wonderfully good follower in traffic ; it is seldom that he gets in the way of a motor-car. Having a keen sense of direction, an unerring homing instinct, he will find his way back alone if set free after a long railway journey. By nature he is suspicious of strangers, and will accept no friendly advances from them. Already he has the reputation of being a ferocious dog. At the same time he exhibits a surprising fondness for young things — kittens, puppies, chickens, and children. He will stand treatment from a child which he would resent with dangerous anger from an adult. It remains for owners of Alsatians to institute some system of intensive training and working trials on the plan adopted on the Continent and in the United States. Exercises in obedience to a sign or the spoken word : sitting, lying down, rising, remaining in the same place in the handler's absence. Exercises for activity : running, springing, climbing, carrying and fetching. Work in water : diving, swimming and re- trieving. Watch and guard service : going when sent in any direction, giving voice without command, defence of his handler against attack, seizing, letting go, warding off blows. Work of the nose : searching for lost or hidden objects, or finding out a man in a crowd, watching over a caught person, accompanying an arrested person, following a runner and ceasing to follow when called back. Training in such exer- cises as these need incur no hardship or cruelty. It is but an extension of the training which we give to our gun dogs, our Airedale Terriers and our Collies. Section III HOUNDS, GUN DOGS, AND OTHER SPORTING BREEDS CHAPTER IX The Larger Sporting Breeds The Bloodhound — The Otterhound — The Irish Wolf- hound— The Deerhound — The Borzoi — The Elkhound The Bloodhound. — The Bloodhound was much used in olden times in hunting and in the pursuit of fugitives — two services for which his acuteness of smell, his ability to keep to the particular scent on which he is first laid, and the in- telligence and pertinacity with which he follows up the trail, admirably fit him. The use and employment of these dogs date back into remote antiquity. They were used by the early Britons against the invading Gauls. Froissart frequently mentions them, and during the ever recurring hostilities between England and Scotland the Bloodhound was a pro- minent actor in many a Border foray. Sir Walter Scott was curiously fond of introducing the Bloodhound into his romances and ballads, and in " The Lady of the Lake " he shows his knowledge by referring to them as the — dogs of black St. Hubert's breed, Unmatched for courage, breath, and speed. These famous black Bloodhounds, called St. Hubert's, are supposed to have been brought by pilgrims from the Holy Land. Another larger breed, also known by the same name, were pure white, and another kind were greyish-red. The hounds of the present day are probably a blend of all these varieties. The Bloodhound, from the nobler pursuit of heroes and knights, came in later years to perform the work of the more modem detective ; but in this also his sevices were in time superseded by the justice's warrant and the police officer. We find it recorded about 1805, however, that the Thrapston Association for the Prevention of Felons in Northamptonshire 127 128 The Complete Book of the Dog provided and trained a Bloodhound for the detection of sheep-stealers, and it is true that from time to time the hound has been successfully engaged in the pursuit of poachers and criminals. There is no doubt that the police in country dis- tricts, and at our convict prisons, could use Bloodhounds to advantage ; but public sentiment is decidedly against the idea, and although one of His Majesty's prisons has been offered a working hound for nothing, the authorities have refused to consider the question or give the hound a trial. Half a century ago the Bloodhound was so little esteemed in this country that the breed was confined to the kennels of a very few owners ; but the institution of dog shows in- duced these owners to bring their hounds into public ex- hibition, when it was seen that, like the Mastiff, the Blood- hound claimed the advantage of having many venerable ancestral trees to branch from. At the first Birmingham Show, in i860, Lord Bagot brought out a team from a strain which had been in his lordship's family for two centuries, and at the same exhibition there was entered probably one of the best Bloodhounds ever seen, in Mr. T. A. Jennings' Druid. Known now as " Old " Druid, this dog was got by Lord Faversham's Raglan out of Baron Rothschild's historic bitch Fur}/, and his blood goes down in collateral veins through Mr. L. G. Morrel's Margrave, Prince Albert Solm's Druid, and Mr. Edwin Brough's Napier into the pedigrees of many of the celebrated hounds of the present day. Another famous Druid — grandsire of Colonel Cowen's hound of the name — was owned by the Hon. Grantley Berkeley. This typical dog was unsurpassed in his time, and his talent in following a line of scent was astonishing. His only blemish was one of character ; for, although usually as good-tempered as most of the breed are, he was easily aroused to uncontrollable fits of savage anger. Queen Victoria at various times was the possessor of one or more fine specimens of the Bloodhound, procured for her by Sir Edwin Landseer, and a capital hound from the Home Park Kennels at Windsor was exhibited at the London Show in 1869, the judge on the occasion being the Rev. Thomas Pearce, afterwards known as " Idstone." Landseer was The Larger Sporting Breeds 129 especially fond of painting the majestic Bloodhound, and he usually selected good models for his studies. The model for the hound in his well-known picture, " Dignity and Impu- dence," was Grafton, who was a collateral relative of Captain J. W. Clayton's celebrated Luath XI. Four superlative Bloodhounds of the past stand out in unmistakable eminence as the founders of recognized strains. They are Mr. Jenning's Old Druid, Colonel Cowen's Dniid, Mr. Reynold Ray's Roswell, and Captain Clayton's Luath XI ; and the owner of a Bloodhound which can be traced back in direct line of descent to any one of these four patriarchs may pride himself upon possessing a dog of unimpeachable pedigree. Among breeders mthin recent years Mr. Edwin Brough, of Scarborough, is to be regarded as the most experienced and successful. Bloodhounds of the correct type would to-day have been very few and far between if it had not been for his enthusiasm and patient breeding, and for all-round quality his kennel stands first in the history of the Bloodhound. His most successful cross was, perhaps, Beckford and Bianca, and one has only to mention such hounds as Burgundy, Babbo, Benedicta, and Bardolph to recall the finest team of Blood- hounds that has ever been benched. Mrs. G. A. Oliphant, of Shrewton, Wilts, whose kennels have produced Chatley Blazer and Chatley Beaufort, has of late years been a keen supporter of the breed. Mrs. Ohphant, who is the president of the ladies' branch of the Kennel Club, is a great believer in hounds being workers first and show hounds second, and her large kennels have produced many of a robust type and of good size and quality, all of them being carefully trained as hunters. But admirable Blood- hounds have also given distinction to the kennels of Mr. S. H. Mangin, Dr. Sidney Turner, Mr. Mark Beaufoy, Mr. F. W. Cousens, Mr. A. O. Mudie, Lord Decies, Mr. Hood Wright, Mr. A. Croxton Smith, Dr. C. C. Garfit, Dr. Semmence, and Mrs. C. Ashton Cross. Since the war several good Bloodhounds have been brought forward, notably Mrs. Edmunds' Ledbury Binnacle and Brigadier, and Mr. Hylden's Dark and Nigger of Brighton. Ch. Dark of Brighton is a supremely fine hound with a magnificent head and grand body and limbs. He is a black dog with tan markings. At the Kennel Club Show J 130 The Complete Book of the Dog in 1 92 1 he gained the Lonsdale Challenge Cup offered for the best dog of any breed in the show. The description of a perfect type of dog, as defined by the Association of Bloodhound Breeders, is as follows : General Character : The Bloodhound possesses, in a most marked degree, every point and characteristic of those dogs which hunt together by scent (Sagaces) . He is very .powerful and stands over more ground than is usual with hounds of other breeds. The skin is tliin to the touch and extremely loose, this being more especially noticeable about the head and neck, where it hangs in deep folds. Height : The mean average height of adult dogs is 26 inches and of adult bitches 24 inches. Dogs usually vary from 25 inches to 27 inches and bitches from 23 inches to 25 inches ; but in either case the greater height is to be preferred, provided that character and quality are also combined. Weight : The mean average weight of adult dogs in fair condition is 90 lb. and of adult bitches 80 lb. Dogs attain the weight of no lb., bitches 100 lb. The greater weights are to be preferred, provided (as in the case of height) that quality and proportion are also combined. Ex- pression : The expression is noble and dignified and characterized by solem- nity, wisdom and power. Temperament : In temperament he is extremely affectionate, quarrelsome neither with companions nor with other dogs. His nature is somewhat shy, and equally sensitive to kindness or correction by his master. Head : The head is narrow in proportion to its length and long in proportion to the body, tapering but slightly from the temples to the end of the muzzle, thus (when viewed from above and in front) having the appearance of being flattened at the sides and of being nearly equal in width throughout its entire length. In profile the upper outline of the skull is nearly in the same plane as that of the foreface. The length from end of nose to stop (midway between the eyes) should be not less than that from stop to back of occipital protuberance (peak). The entire length of head from the posterior part of the occipital protuberance to the end of the muzzle should be 12 inches, or more, in dogs, and 11 inches, or more, in bitches. Skull : The skull is long and narrow, with the occipital peak very pronounced. The brows are not prominent, although, owing to the deep-set eyes, tliey may have that appearance. Foreface : The foreface is long, deep, and of even width throughout, with square outline when seen in profile. Eyes : The eyes are deeply sunk in the orbits, the lids assuming a lozenge or diamond shape, in consequence of the lower lids being dragged down and everted by the heavy flews. The eyes correspond with the general tone of colour of the animal, varying from deep hazel to yellow. The hazel colour is, however, to be pre- ferred, although very seldom seen in red-aud-tan hounds. Ears : The ears are thin and soft to the touch, extremely long, set very low, and fall in graceful folds, the lower parts curling inwards and backwards. Wrinkle : The head is furnished with an amount of loose skin which in nearly every position appears superabundant, but more particularly so when the head is carried low ; the skin then falls into loose, pendulous ridges and folds, especially over the forehead and sides of the face. Nostrils : The nostrils are large and open. Lips, Flews, and Dewlap : In front the lips fall squarely, making a right-angle with the upper line of the foreface, whilst behind they form deep, hanging flews, and, being continued into the pendent folds of loose skin about the neck, constitute the dewlap, which is very pronounced. These characters are found, though in a less degree, in the bitch. Neck, Shoulders, and Chest : The neck is long, the shoulders muscular and well sloped back- wards ; the ribs are well sprung, and the chest well let down between the forelegs, forming a deep keel. Legs and Feet : The forelegs are straight and large in bone, with elbows squarely set ; the feet strong and well knuckled up ; the thighs and second thighs (gaskins) are very muscular ; the hocks well bent and let down and squarely set. Back and Loins : The back and Bloodhound Ch. Hengist. Bred by Mr. A. Croxton Smith. Champion Team ot the Dumfriesshire Otterhounds. Mr. II. Ilylden's Bloodhound Ch. Dark of Brighton. Winner of the Lonsdale Cup, 1921. The Larger Sporting Breeds 131 loins are strong, tlic latter deep and slightly arched. Stern : The stern is long and tapering and set on rather high, with a moderate amount of hair underneath. Gait: The gait is elastic, swinging, and free — the stem being carried high, but not too much curled over the back. Colour : The colours are black and tan, red and tan, and tawny — the darker colours being some- times interspersed with hghter or badger-coloured hair and sometimes flecked with white. A small amount of white is permissible on chest, feet, and tip of stern. For the care of Bloodhounds no especial treatment is necessary which does not apply to all other large dogs. Regular exercise in the open country is perhaps more imperative, and daily grooming is to be recommended. In puppyhood this breed is peculiarly liable to distemper, seven out of ten being the average number of victims, but the survivors may be trusted to mature without great trouble. It is well when the puppies are about six months old to begin giving them short lessons in tracking. Someone they know should run on, say across a field, perhaps hiding behind a fence some two or three hundred yards away, and then the puppies should be allowed to follow him. When they come up a fuss should be made of them, and they should be given a small piece of meat. The distance can be increased in a day or two, and the runner can leave little sticks with pieces of paper in the top along his line, so that the puppies can be made to work the proper track. If a puppy is tired, or does not seem keen, take him home and bring him out another day ; it is no good trying to make him work when he feels disinclined. The Otterhound. — The Otterhound is a descendant of the old Southern Hound, and there is reason to believe that all hounds hunting their quarry by nose had a similar source. Why the breed was first called the Southern Hound, or when his use became practical in Great Britam, must be subjects of conjecture ; but that there was a hound good enough to hold a line for many hours is accredited in history that goes very far back into past centuries. The hound required three centuries ago even was all the better esteemed for being slow and unswerving on a line of scent, and in many parts of the Kingdom, up to within half that period, the so-called Southern Hound had been especially employed. In Devonshire and Wales the last sign of him in his purity was perhaps when Captain Hopwood hunted a small pack of hounds very similar in character on the htch or polecat ; the modus operandi being 132 The Complete Book of the Dog to find the foraging grounds of the animal, and then on a line that might be two days old hunt him to his lair, often enough ten or twelve miles off. When this sort of hunting disappeared, and improved ideas of fox-hunting came into vogue, there was nothing left for the Southern Hound to do but to hunt the otter. He may have done this before at various periods, but history rather tends to show that otter-hunting was originally asso- ciated with a mixed pack, and some of Sir Walter Scott's pages seem to indicate that the Dandie Dinmont and kindred Scottish terriers had a good deal to do with the sport. It is more than probable that the rough-coated terrier is identical with the now recognized Otterhound as an offshoot of the Southern Hound ; but be that as it may, there has been a special breed of Otterhound for the last hundred years, very carefully bred and gradually much improved in point of appearance. They are beautiful hounds to-day, with heads as typical as those of Bloodhounds, legs and feet that would do for Foxhounds, a unique coat of their own, and they are exactly suitable for hunting the otter. The greatest otter hunter of the last century may have been the Hon. Geoffrey Hill, a younger brother of the late Lord Hill. A powerful athlete of over 6 feet. Major Hill was noted for the long distances he would travel on foot with his hounds. They were mostly of the pure rough sort, not very big ; the dogs he reckoned at about 23-i- inches, bitches 22 : beautiful Bloodhound type of heads, coats of thick, hard hair, big in ribs and bones, and good legs and feet. This famous Master has been dead now many years, but his pack is still going, and shows great sport as the Hawkstone, the kennels being at Ludlow Racecourse, Bromfield. The leading pack in the kingdom for the last seventy years, at any rate, has been the Carlisle when in the hands of Mr. J. C. Carrick, who was famous both for the sport he showed and for his breed of Otterhound. Such hounds as Lottery and Lucifer were very typical specimens ; but of late years the entries of Otterhounds have not been very numerous at the great exhibitions, and this can well be ex- plained by the fact that they are wanted in greater numbers for active service, there being many more packs than formerly The Larger Sporting Breeds 133 — in all, twenty-one for the United Kingdom. Perhaps the most energetic pack at the present time is the Dumfries, of which Miss Bell Irving is the Master. The sport of otter-hunting is decidedly increasing, as there have been several hunts started within the last dozen years. There can well be many more, as according to the opinion of that excellent authority, the late Rev. " Otter " Davies, as he was always called, there are otters on every river ; but, owing to the nocturnal and mysterious habits of the animals, their whereabouts or existence is seldom known, or even suspected. Hunting them is a very fascinating sport, and the question arises as to whether the pure Otterhounds should not be more generally used than they are at present. It is often asserted that their continued exposure to water has caused a good deal of rheumatism in the breed, that they show age sooner than others, and that the puppies are difficult to rear. There are, however, many advantages in having a pure breed, and there is much to say for the perfect work of the Otterhound. The scent of the otter is possibly the sweetest of all trails left by animals, and the oldest Foxhound or Harrier that has never touched otter is at once in ravishing excitement on it, and all dogs will hunt it. The terrier is never keener than when he hits on such a line. But for the real sport of otter-hunting there is nothing as good as the pure-bred Otterhound. There is something so dignified and noble about the hound of unsullied strain that if you once see a good one 3'ou will not soon forget him. He is a large hound, as he well needs to be, for the " varmint " who is his customary quarry is the wildest, most vicious, and, for its size, the most powerful of all British wild animals, the inveterate poacher of our salmon streams, and consequently to be mercilessly slaughtered, although alwa3's in sporting fashion. To be equal to such prey, the hound must have a Bulldog's courage, a Newfoundland's strength in water, a Pointer's nose, a Retriever's sagacity, the stamina of the Foxhound, the patience of a Beagle, the intelligence of a ColUe. The Perfect Otterhound. — Head : The head, which has been described as something between that of a Bloodhound and that of a Foxhound, is more hard and rugged than either. With a narrow forehead, ascending to a moder- ate peak. Ears : The ears are long and sweeping, but net feathered down 132 The Complete Book of the Dog to ftnd the fomging grounds of the animal, and then on a Hne that might be two days old hunt him to his lair, often enough ten or twelve miles off. When this sort of hunting disappeared, and improved ideas of fox-hunting came into vogue, there was nothing left for the Southern Hound to do but to hunt the otter. He may have done this before at various periods, but history rather tends to show that otter-hunting was originally asso- ciated with a mixed pack, and some of Sir Walter Scott's pages seem to indicate that the Dandie Dinmont and kindred Scottish terriers had a good deal to do with the sport. It is more than probable that the rough-coated terrier is identical with the now recognized Otterhound as an offshoot of the Southern Hound ; but be that as it may, there has been a special breed of Otterhound for the last hundred years, very carefully bred and gradually much improved in point of appearance. They are beautiful hounds to-day, with heads as typical as those of Bloodhounds, legs and feet that would do for Foxhounds, a unique coat of their own, and they are exactly suitable for hunting the otter. The greatest otter hunter of the last century may have been the Hon. Geoffrey Hill, a younger brother of the late Lord Hill. A powerful athlete of over 6 feet. Major Hill was noted for the long distances he would travel on foot with his hounds. They were mostly of the pure rough sort, not very big ; the dogs he reckoned at about 23^ inches, bitches 22 : beautiful Bloodhound type of heads, coats of thick, hard hair, big in ribs and bones, and good legs and feet. This famous Master has been dead now many years, but his pack is still going, and shows great sport as the Hawkstone, the kennels being at Ludlow Racecourse, Bromfield. The leading pack in the kingdom for the last seventy years, at any rate, has been the Carlisle when in the hands of Mr. J, C. Carrick, who was famous both for the sport he showed and for his breed of Otterhound. Such hounds as Lottery and Lucifer were very typical specimens ; but of late years the entries of Otterhounds have not been very numerous at the great exhibitions, and this can well be ex- plained by the fact that they are wanted in greater numbers for active service, there being many more packs than formerly The Larger Sporting Breeds 133 — in all, twcnty-onc for the United Kingdom. Perhaps Ihc most energetic pack at the present time is the Dumfries, of which Miss Bell Irving is the Master, The sport of otter-hunting is decidedly increasing, as there have been several hunts started within the last dozen years. There can well be many more, as according to the opinion of that excellent authority, the late Rev. " Otter " Davies, as he was always called, there are otters on every river ; but, owing to the nocturnal and mysterious habits of the animals, their whereabouts or existence is seldom known, or even suspected. Hunting them is a very fascinating sport, and the question arises as to whether the pure Otterhounds should not be more generally used than they are at present. It is often asserted that their continued exposure to water has caused a good deal of rheumatism in the breed, that they show age sooner than others, and that the puppies are difficult to rear. There are, however, many advantages in having a pure breed, and there is much to say for the perfect work of the Otterhound. The scent of the otter is possibly the sweetest of all trails left by animals, and the oldest Foxhound or Harrier that has never touched otter is at once in ravishing excitement on it, and all dogs will hunt it. The terrier is never keener than when he hits on such a line. But for the real sport of otter-hunting there is nothing as good as the pure-bred Otterhound. There is something so dignified and noble about the hound of unsullied strain that if you once see a good one 3^ou will not soon forget him. He is a large hound, as he well needs to be, for the " varmint " who is his customary quarry is the wildest, most vicious, and, for its size, the most powerful of all British wild animals, the inveterate poacher of our salmon streams, and consequently to be mercilessly slaughtered, although alwaj-s in sporting fashion. To be equal to such prey, the hound must have a Bulldog's courage, a Newfoundland's strength in water, a Pointer's nose, a Retriever's sagacity, the stamina of the Foxhound, the patience of a Beagle, the intelligence of a Collie. The Perfect Otterhound. — Head : The head, which has been described as something between that of a Bloodhound and that of a Foxhound, is more hard and rugged than either. With a narrow forehead, ascending to a moder- ate peak. Ears : The ears are long and sweeping, but n(;t feathered down 134 The Complete Book of the Dog to the tips, set low and lying flat to the cheeks. Eyes : The eyes are large, dark and deeply set, having a peculiarly thoughtful expression. They show a considerable amount of the haw. Nose : The nose is large and well developed, the nostrils expanding. Muzzle : The muzzle well protected with wiry hair. The jaw very powerful with deep flews. Xeck : The neck is strong and muscular, but rather long. The dewlap is loose and folded. Chest : The chest, deep and capacious, but not too wide. Back : The back is strong, wide and arched. Shoidders : The shoulders ought to be sloping, the arms and thighs substantial and muscular. Feet : The feet, fairly large and spreading, with firm pads and strong nails to resist sharp rocks. Stern : The stem when the hound is at work is carried gaily, like that of a rough Welsh Harrier. It is tliick and well covered, to serve as a rudder. Coat : The coat is wiry, hard, long and close at the roots, impervious to water. Colour : Grey, or buff, or yellowish, or black, or rufous red, mixed with black or grey. Height : 22 to 24 inches. The Irish Wolfhound. — There is little to be gathered from ancient writings concerning the size and appearance of the Irish Wolfhounds in early times. Exaggerated figures are given as to height and weight ; but all authorities agree that they were impressively large and imposing dogs, and that they were regarded as the giants of the canine race. It seems extraordinary that so little should have been accur- ately known and recorded of a dog which at one time must have been a familiar figure in the halls of the Irish kings. It was no mere mythical animal like the heraldic griffin, but an actual sporting dog which was accepted as a national emblem of the Emerald Isle, associated with the harp and the shamrock ; and there is no reason to suppose that it ever became extinct. Most students now agree that the late Captain Graham was near the truth when he gave the opinion that the Irish hound which was kept to hunt wolves is still represented in the Scottish Deerhound, only altered a little in size and strength to suit the easier work required of it — that of hunting the deer. This is the more probable, as the fact remains that the chief factor in the resuscitation of the Irish Wolfhound has been the Scottish Deerhound. The result of Captain Graham's investigations when seeking for animals bearing some relationship to the original Irish " Wolfe Dogge " was that three strains were to be found in Ireland, but none of the representatives at that time was anything like so large as those mentioned in early writings, and they all appeared to have deteriorated in bone and sub- stance. Sir J. Power, of Kilfane, was responsible for one line, Mr. Baker, of Ballytobin, for another, and Mr. Mahoney, The Larger Sporting Breeds 135 of Dromore, for the remaining strain, iium bitches obtained from two of these kennels, Captain Graham, by crossing them with the Great Dane and Scottish Deerhound, achieved the first step towards producing the animal that he desired. Later on the Russian Wolfhound, better known as the Borzoi, an exceedingly large hound, was introduced, as also were one or two other large breeds of dogs. The intermixture of these canine giants, however, was not at first very satisfactory, as although plenty of bone was obtained, many were most ungainly in appearance and ill- shaped animals that had very httle about them to attract attention. Captain Graham, however, stuck to his work, and very soon the specimens that he brought forward began to show a tixity of type both in head and in general outline. Brian was one of his best dogs, but he was not very large, as he only stood just over 30 inches at the shoulder. Banshee and Fintragh were others, but probably the best of Captain Graham's kennel was the bitch Sheelah. It was not, however, until towards the end of the last century that the most per- fect dogs were bred. These included O'Leary, the property of Mr. Crisp, of Playford Hall. O'Leary is responsible for many of the best dogs of the present day, and was the sire of j\Irs. Percy Shewell's Ch. Cotswold, undoubtedly the grandest Irish Wolfhound ever bred. In height Cotswold stood 34^ inches and was therefore perhaps the largest dog of any breed whose measurements are recorded. In 1900 Mr. Crisp bred KilcuUen from O'Leary, this dog winning the championship at the Kennel Club Show at the Crystal Palace in 1902 under Captain Graham. This was the year in which the Irish Wolfhound Club presented the hound Rajah of Kidnal to the newly formed Irish Guards, who have ever since kept one of the breed as a regimental mascot. Rajah (renamed Brian Boru) was bred by Mrs. A. Gerard, of Malpas, who owned one of the largest kennels in England and was breeder of the wonderful brood bitch Cheevra, the dam of Rajah and also of Ch. Cotswold Patricia, who was one of the tallest of her race, her height being 33 inches at the shoulder. Mr. J. W. Everitt, of Felixstowe, is one of the most success- ful breeders. His Kilronan and Yirra were among the best 136 The Complete Book of the Dog of his early hounds, but these have since been excelled in many instances, and at present his Kilgerran and Fota are as good specimens of the breed as one can expect to see. The Rev. C. H. Hildebrand has recently come forward as a prominent breeder and exhibitor. His Ballyshannon and Maureen hold a high position as typical Wolfhounds. Mr. R. Montagu Scott is the owner and breeder of several admirable hounds. The following is the description of the Irish Wolfhound as drawn up by the Club : General Appearance : The Irish "Wolfhound should not be quite so heavy or massive as the Great Dane, but more so than the Deerhound, which in general type he should otherwise resemble. Of great size and commanding appearance, ver>' muscular, strongly though gracefully built ; movements easy and active ; head and neck carried liigh ; the tail carried with an upward, sweep, with a slight curve towards the extremity. The minimum height and weight of dogs should be 31 inches and 120 lb., of bitches 28 inches and 90 lb. Anything below this shoiild be debarred from competition. Great size, in- cluding height at shoulder and proportionate length of bodj-, is the desider- atum to be aimed at, and it is desired firmly to establish a race that shall average from 32 inches to 34 inches in dogs, showing the reqmsite power, activity, courage, and symmetry. Head : Long, the frontal bones of the forehead very Sightly raised and very little indentation between the eyes. Skull not too broad ; muzzle long and moderately pointed ; ears small and Greyhound-like in carriage. Neck : Rather long, very strong and muscular, well arched, without dewlap and loose skin about the throat. Chest : Very deep, breast wide. Back : Rather long than short. Loins arched. Tail : Long and slightly curved, of moderate thickness, and well covered with hair. Belly : Well drawn up. Foreqiiarters : Shoulders muscular, giving breadth of chest, set sloping, elbows well under, neither turned inwards nor outwards. Legs : Forearm muscular and the whole leg strong and quite straight. Hind- quarters : Muscular thighs, and second thigh long and strong as in the Grey- hound, and hocks well let down and turning neither in nor out. Feet : Moderately large and round, neither turned inwards nor outwards ; toes well arched and closed, nails very strong and curved. Hair : Rough and hard on body, legs, and head ; especially wiry and long over eyes and under jaw. Colour and Markings : The recognized colours are grey, brindle, red, black, pure white, fawn or any colour that appears in the Deerhound. Faults: Too light or heavy in head, too highly arched frontal bone, large ears and hang- ing fiat to the face ; short neck ; full dewlap ; too narrow or too broad a chest ; sunken and hollow or quite level back ; bent forelegs ; overbent fetlocks ; twisted feet ; spreading toes ; too curly a tail ; weak hind-quarters, cow hocks, and a general want of muscle ; too short in body. The Deerhound. — ^The Deerhound is one of the most decora- tive of dogs, impressively stately and picturesque wherever he is seen, whether it be amid the surroundings of the baronial hall, or out in the open, gracefully bounding over the purple of his native hills. Grace and majesty arc in his ever}^ move- ment and attitude, and even to the most prosaic mind there is about him the inseparable glamour of feudal romance and The Larger Sporting Breeds 137 poetry. He is at his best alert in the excitement of the chase ; but all too rare now is the inspiring sight that once was common among the mountains of Morven and the glens of Argyll of the deep-voiced hound speeding in pursuit of his antlered prey. Gone are the good romantic days of stalking beloved by Scrope. The Highlands have lost their loneliness, and the inventions of the modern gunsmith have robbed one of the grandest of hunting dogs of liis glory, relegating him to the life of a pedestrian pet, whose highest dignity is the winning of a pecuniary prize under Kennel Club rules. Historians of the Deerhound associate him with the original Irish Wolfdog, of whom he is obviously a close relative, and it is sure that when the wolf still lingered in the land it was the frequent quarry of the Highland as of the Hibernian hound. I am disposed to affirm that the old Irish Wolfhound and the Highland Deerhound are not only intimately allied in form and nature, but that they are two strains of an identical breed, altered only in size by circumstance and environment. \Vhatever the source of the Highland Deerhound, and at whatever period it became distinct from its now larger Irish relative, it was recognized as a native dog in Scotland in very early times, and it was distinguished as being superior in strength and beauty to the hounds of the Picts. From remote days the Scottish nobles cherished their strains of Deerhound, seeking glorious sport in the Highland forests. The red deer belonged by inexorable law to the kings of Scotland, and great drives, which often lasted for several days, were made to round up the herds into given neighbour- hoods for the pleasure of the court, as in the reign of Queen Mary. But the organized coursing of deer by courtiers ceased during the Stuart troubles, and was left in the hands of retainers, who thus replenished their chief's larder. The revival of deerstalking dates back hardly further than a hundred years. It reached its greatest popularity in the Highlands at the time when Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were in residence at Balmoral. Solomon, Hector, and Bran were among the Balmoral hounds. Bran was an especiaU}^ line animal — one of the best of his time, standing over 30 inches in height. He was Landseer's model for the hound in his picture " High Life." 138 The Complete Book of the Dog Two historic feats of strength and endurance illustrate the tenacity of the Deerhound at work. A brace of half-bred dogs, named Percy and Douglas, the property of Mr. Scrope, kept a stag at bay from Saturday night to Monday morning ; and the pure-bred Bran by himself pulled down two un- wounded stags, one carrying ten and the other eleven tines. These, of course, are record performances, but they demon- strate the possibilities of the Deerhound when trained to his natural sport. Primarily and essentially, the Deerhound belongs to the order Agaseus, hunting by sight and not by scent, and although he may indeed occasionally put his nose to the ground, yet his powers of scent are not remarkable. His vocation, therefore, has undergone a change, and it was ascertained shortly before the war that of sixty deer forests there were only six upon which Deerhounds were kept for sporting purposes. Happily the Deerhound has suffered no decline in the favour bestowed upon him for his own sake. The contrary is rather the case, and he is still an aristocrat among dogs, valued for his good looks, the symmetry of his form, his grace and elegance, and even more so for his faithful and affectionate nature. Forty years ago Captain Graham drew up a list of the most notable dogs of the last century. Among these were Sir St. George Gore's Gruim (1843-4), Black Bran (1850-1) ; the Marquis of Breadalbane's King of the Forest, said to stand 33 inches high : Mr. Beaseley's Alder (1863-7), bred by Sir John McNeill of Colonsay ; Mr. Donald Cameron's Torrum (1869), and his two sons Monzie and Young Torrum ; and Mr. Dadley's Hector, who was probably the best-bred dog living in the early eighties. Torrum, however, appears to have been the most successful of these dogs at stud. He was an exceedingly grand specimen of his race, strong framed, with plenty of hair of a blue brindle colour. Captain Graham's own dog Kcildar, who had been trained for deerstalking in Windsor Park, was perhaps one of the most elegant and aristocratic-looking Deerhounds ever seen. His full height was 30 inches, girth 33^ inches, and weight 95 lb., his colour bluish fawn, slightly brindled, the muzzle and ears being The Larger Sporting Breeds 139 blue. His nearest competitor for perfection was, after Hector, probably Mr. Hood Wright's Bevis, a darkish red brown brindle of about 29 inches. Mr. Wright was the breeder of Ch. Selwood Morven, who was the celebrity of his race about 1897, and who became the property of Mr. Harry Rawson. This stately dog was a dark heather brindle, stand- ing 32 1 inches at the shoulder, with a chest girth of 34-J inches. The qualities aimed at now are a height of something less than 30 inches, and a weight not greater than 105 lb., with straight forelegs and short, cat-like feet, a deep chest, with broad, powerful loins, shghtly arched, and strength of hind- quarters, with well-bent stifles, and the hocks well let down. Straight stifles are objectionable, giving a stilty appearance. Thick shoulders are equally a blemish to be avoided, as also a too great heaviness of bone. The following is the accepted standard of merit : Points ol the Deerhound — Head : The head should be broadest at the ears, taperiug slightly to the eyes, with the muzzle tapering more decidedly to the nose. The muzzle should be pointed, but the teeth and lips level. The head shoixld be long, the skull flat rather than round, with a very slight rise over the eyes, but with nothing approaching a stop. The skull should be coated with moderately long hair whidi is softer than the rest of the coat. The nose should be black (though in some blue-fawns the coloitr is blue) and slightly aquiline. In the Ughter- coloured dogs a black muzzle is preferred. There should be a good moustache of rather silky hair, and a fair beard. Ears : The ears should be set on high, and, in repose, folded back like the Greyhound's, though raised above the head in excitement without losing the fold, and even, in some cases, semi-erect. A prick ear is bad. A big, thick ear, hanging flat to the head, or heavily coated with long hair, is the worst of faults. The ear should be soft, glossy, and like a mouse's coat to the touch, and the smaller it is the better. It shoiald have no long coat or long fringe, but there is often a silky, silvery coat on the body of the ear and the tip. W^hatever the general colour, the ears should be black or dark-coloured. Neck and Shoulders : The neck should be long- — that is, of the length that befits the Greyhoimd character of the dog. An over-long neck is not necessary, nor desirable, for tlie dog is not required to stoop in his work like a Greyhound, and it must be remembered that the mane, which every good specimen should have, detracts from the apparent length of neck. Moreover, a Deerhound requires a verj' strong neck to hold a stag. The nape of the neck should be very prominent where the head is set on, and the throat should be clean-cut at the angle and prominent. The shoulders should be well sloped, the blades well back, with not too much width between them. Loaded and straight shoulders are very bad faults. Stern : Stern should be tolerably long, taper- ing, and reaching to within i^ inches of the ground, and about i J inches below the hocks — when the dog is still, dropped perfectly straight down, or curbed ; when in motion it should be curved when excited, in no case to be lifted out of the line of the back. It should be well covered with hair, on the inside thick and wirj', underside longer, and towards the end a slight fringe is not objectionable. A curl or ring tail is very undesirable. Eyes: The eyes should be dark : generally tliey are dark brown or hazel. A very light eye is not liked. The eye is moderately full with a soft look in repose, but a keen, far- 140 The Complete Book of the Dog away gaze when the dog is roused. The rims of the eyelids should be black. Body : The body and general formation is that of a Greyhound of larger size and bone. Chest deep rather than broad, but not too narrow and flat-sided. The loin well arched and drooping to the tail. A straight back is not desirable, this formation being unsuitable for going uphill, and very unsightly. Legs and Feet : The legs should be broad and flat, a good broad forearm and elbow being desirable. Forelegs, of course, as straight as possible. Feet close and compact, with well-arched toes. The hind-quarters drooping, and as broad and powerful as possible, the hips beii]g set wide apart. The hind-legs should be well bent at the stifle, with great length from the hip to the hock, which should be broad and flat. Cow hocks, weak pasterns, straight stifles, and splay feet are very bad faults. Coat : The hair on the body, neck, and quarters should be harsh and wiry, and about 3 inches or 4 inches long ; that on the head, breast, and belly is much softer. There should be a slight hairy fringe on the inside of the fore and hind legs, but nothing approaching to the feather- ing of a Collie. The Deerhound should be a shaggy dog, but not over coated. A woolly coat is bad. Some good strains have a slight mixture of silky coat with the hard, which is preferable to a woolly coat, but the proper covering is a thick, close-lying, ragged coat, harsh or crisp to the touch. Colour : Colour is much a matter of fancy. But there is no manner of doubt that the dark blue-grey is the most preferred. Next come the darker and lighter greys or brindles.the darkest being generally preferred. Yellow and sandy- red or red-fawn, especially with black points — i.e. ears and muzzle — are also in equal estimation, this being the colour of the oldest known strains, the McNeil and the Chesthill Menzies. White is condemned by all the old au- thorities, but a white chest and white toes, occurring as they do in a great many of the darkest-coloured dogs, are not so greatly objected to, but the less the better, as the Deerhound is a self-coloured dog. A white blaze on the head or a white collar should entirely disqualify. In other cases, though passable, an attempt should be made to get rid of white markings. The less white the better, but a slight white tip to the stern occurs in the best strains. Height of Dogs : From 28 inches to 30 inches, or even more if there be sym- metry without coarseness, which, however, is rare. Height of Bitches : From 26 inches upwards. There can be no objection to a bitch being large, unless she is too coarse, as even at her greatest height she does not approach that of the dog, and, therefore, could not well be too big for work, as over-big dogs are. Besides, a big bitch is good for breeding and keeping up the size. Weight : From 85 lb. to 105 lb. in dogs ; from 65 lb. to 80 lb. in bitches. Among the more prominent owners of Deerhoimds during recent years have been Mrs. H, Armstrong, Mrs. W. C. Grew, Mrs. Janvrin Dickson, Miss A, Doxford, Mr. Harry Rawson, and Mr. H. McLauchin. Mrs. Armstrong bred two beautiful dog hounds in TaUsman and Laird of Abbotsford, and two typically good bitches in Fair Maid of Perth and Bride of Lammermoor. Mrs. Grew owned many admirable specimens, among them being Blair Athol, Ayrshire, Kenilworth, and Ferraline. Her Ayrshire was considered by some judges to be the most perfect Deerhound exhibited in his time. He was somewhat large, perhaps, but he was throughout a hound of excellent quality and character, having a most typical head, with lovely ej'cs and expression, perfect front, feet and hind-quarters. Other judges gave the palm to Mr. Harry The Larger Sporting Breeds 141 Rawson's St. Ronan's Ranger, who was certainly dilficiilt to excel in all the characteristics most desirable in the breed. Ranger was the sire of St. Ronan's Rhyme, a beautiful bitch who in 1906 had the distinction of being awarded the prize for the best dog of any breed in the show, both at the Crystal Palace and the Scottish Kennel Club Shows. Deerhounds are most captivating as companions. They are no fools if brought up sensibly, and they are obedient, while, for all they are so large, it is astonishing what little room they occupy ; they have a happy knack of curling themselves up into wonderfully small compass, and lying out of the way. They do not require a very great amount of food, and are readily and easily exercised, as, if let loose in some field or other convenient place, they soon gallop them- selves tired. They are, as a rule, excellent followers, either in town or country, keeping close to heel and walking in a dignified manner ; while, on the approach of a strange dog, a slight raising of the head and tail is generally all the notice they deign to give that they have even seen the passing canine. The Borzoi. — There is not a more elegant and graceful dog than the Borzoi or Russian Wolfhound. Combining sym- metry \nth strength, the wearer of a lovely silky coat, he is essentially a spectacular animal, attracting attention and admiration wherever he is seen. He is by nature affectionate, and he makes a capital house-dog. But in his native land he is used for hunting the wolf and also smaller game, including foxes and hares, and he is still classed by the Kennel Club as a sporting dog. Several methods of hunting the larger game were adopted in Russia on the great hunting estates before the war dis- turbed the serenity of sporting families. The most popular method when wolves were reported to be present in the neighbourhood was for the hunters to set out on horseback, each holding in his left hand a leash of three Borzois, as nearly matched as possible in size, speed and colour. The chief huntsman stationed the hunters at separate points every hundred yards or so round the wood. A pack of hounds was sent in to draw the quarry, and on the wolves breaking cover the nearest huntsman slipped his dogs, which gave chase and 142 The Complete Book of the Dog seized their prey by the neck, where they held him until the hunter arrived and dismounted to use his knife. It was important that the hounds should be of equal speed to reach the wolf simultaneously ; one dog would, of course, be unable to grapple with him. There are some owners of Borzoi kennels in England who advocate the use of this hound for coursing. The Borzoi is a comparatively recent addition to our accUmatized foreign dogs. One of the first examples of the breed exhibited in England was owned by Messrs. Hill and Ashton, of Sheffield, about 1880, at which time good specimens were imported by the Rev. J. C. Macdona and Lady Emily Peel, whose Sandringham and Czar excited general admira- tion. It was then known as the Siberian Wolfliound. Some years later the Duchess of Newcastle obtained several fine dogs, and from this stock Her Grace founded the kennel which has since become so famous. Later still. Queen Alexandra received from the Tsar a gift of a leash of these stately hounds, one of them being Alex, who quicldy achieved honours as a champion. The breed soon became as fashionable in the United States as in Great Britain, and some excellent specimens are to be seen at the annual shows at Madison Square Gardens. To take the points of the breed in detail, the description of the perfect Borzoi is as follows : Head : This should be long, lean, and ■well balanced, and the length, from the tip of the nose to the eyes, must be the same as from the eyes to the occiput. A dog may have a long head, but the length may be all in front of the eyes. The heads of tliis iDreed have greatly improved the last few years ; fewer " apple-headed " specimens and more of the desired triangular heads being seen. The skull should be flat and narrow, the stop not per- ceptible, the muzzle long and tapering. Too much stress cannot be laid on the importance of the head being well filled up before the eyes. The head, from forehead to nose, should be so fine that the direction of the bones and principal veins can be seen clearly, and in profile should appear rather Roman nosed. Bitches should be even narrower in head than dogs. The Eyes should be dark, expressive, almond shaped, and not too far apart. The Ears like those of a Greyhound, small, thin, and placed well back on the head, with the tips, when thrown back, almost touching behind the occiput. It is not a fault if the dog can raise his ears erect when excited or looking after game, altlaough some English judges dislike this frequent characteristic. The head should be carried somewhat low, with the neck continuing the line of the back. Shoulders : Clean and sloping well back, i.e. the shoulder blades should ahnost touch one another. Chest : Deep and somewhat narrow. It must be capacious, but the capacity must be got from depth, and not from " barrel " ribs — a bad fault in a running houud. Back : Rather bony, and free from any cavity in the spinal column, the arch in the back being more marked in the dog than in the bitch. Loins : Broad and very powerful, showing plenty The Larger Sporting Breeds 143 of muscular developmeut. Thighs : Long and well developed, with good second thigh. The muscle in the Borzoi is longer than in the Greyhound. Ribs : Slightly sprung, very deep, reaching to the elbow. Forelegs : Lean and straight. Seen from the front they should be narrow, and from the side broad at the shoulder and narrowing gradually down to the foot, the bone appearing flat and not round as in the Foxhound. Hind-legs : The least thing under the body when standing still, not straight, and the stifle slightly bent. They should, of course, be straight as regards each other, and not " cow-hocked," but straight hind-legs imply a want of speed. Feet : Like those of tlie Deerhound, rather long. The toes close together and well arched. Coat : Long, silky, not woolly ; either flat, wavy, or curly. On the head, ears, and front legs it should be short and smooth ; on the neck the frill should be profuse and rather curly ; on the chest and the rest of the body, the tail and hmd-quarters, it should be long ; the forelegs being well feathered. Tail : Long, well feathered, and not gaily carried. It should be carried well down, almost touching the ground. Height : Dogs from 29 inches upwards at shoulder, bitches from 27 inches upwards. Faults : Head short and thick ; too much stop ; parti- coloured nose ; eyes too wide apart ; heavy ears ; heavy shoulders ; wide chest ; "barrel" ribbed; dew-claws; elbows turned out ; wide behind. Also light eyes and over- or undershot jaws. Colour : The Club Standard makes no mention of colour. White, of course, should predominate ; fawn, lemon, orange, brindle, blue, slate and black markings are met with. Too much of the latter, or black and tan markings, are disliked. Whole coloured dogs are also seen. Although the Club standard of height has been raised from 27 and 26 inches to 29 and 27 inches for dogs and bitches respectively, it must be borne in mind that the best dogs of to-day far exceed these measurements, and, unless ex- ceptionally good in other points, a dog of 29 inches at shoulder would stand little or no chance in the showing under the majority of Enghsh judges ; indeed, bitches of 29 to 30 inches are by no means uncommon. Not many of us can afford to start at the top of the tree, and, except for the favoured few to whom money is no object, and who can buy ready-made champions, there is no better way of starting a kennel than to purchase a really good bitch, one, say, capable of winning at all but the more important shows. She must be of good pedigree, strong, and healthy ; such a one ought to be obtained for £15 upwards. Mate her to the best dog whose blood " nicks " suitably with hers, but do not waste time and money breeding from fourth-rate stud dogs, for if you do it is certain you will only meet with disappointment. On the other hand, if you have had little or no experience of dogs, you may possibly prefer to start with a puppy. If so, place yourself in the hands of a breeder with a reputation at stake. It is a fact that even a " cast off " from a good strain that has been 144 The Complete Book of the Dog bred for certain points for years is more likely to turn out a better dog than a pup whose dam has been mated " haphazard " to some dog who may or may not have been a good one. Big kennels also generally possess the best bitches and breed from them, and the bitch is quite as important a factor as the sire. If, however, you prefer to rely on your own judg- ment, and wish to choose a puppy yourself from a litter, select the one with the longest head, biggest bone, smallest ears, and longest tail, or as many of these qualities as you can find combined in one individual. Coat is a secondary matter in quite a young pup ; here one should be guided by the coat of the sire and dam. As regards size, a Borzoi pup of three months should measure about 19 inches at the shoulder, at six months about 25 inches, and at nine months, from 27 to 29 inches. After ten or twelve months, growth is very slow, although some continue adding to their height until they are a year and a half old. They will, of course, increase in girth of chest and develop muscle until two years old ; a Borzoi may be considered in its prime at from three to four years of age. As regards price, from £5 to £10 is not too much to pay for a really good pup of about eight to ten weeks old ; if you pay less you will probably get only a second-rate one. Having purchased your puppy, there are three principal items to be considered if you intend to rear him well : firstly, his diet must be varied ; secondly, the pup must have unlimited exercise, and never be kept on the chain ; thirdly, internal parasites must be kept in check. For young puppies " Ruby " Worm Cure is most efficacious. Food should be given at regular intervals — not less fre- quently than five times a day to newly weaned puppies — and may consist of porridge, bread and milk, raw meat minced line, and any table scraps, with plenty of new milk. Well-boiled paunch is also greatly appreciated, and, being easily digested, may be given freely. The adult hound, like the puppy, should never be kept on the chain ; a kennel with a railed-in run should be pro- vided, or a loose box makes a capital place for those kept out of doors. The Borzoi is as hardy as most large breeds, in spite of his appearance of delicacy. No weather is too cold The Larger Sporting Breeds 145 for him. Given a good dry kennel and plenty of straw, with judicious feeding and plenty of exercise, he ought to thrive. Before the war the Borzoi had reached the perfection of type, and high distinction was given to the breed by such admirable specimens as the Duchess of Newcastle's Ivan Turgeneff, Velsk and Tatiana ; Mrs. Borman's Kieff, States- man and Miss Piostri ; Mrs. Aitcheson's Strawberry King ; and Mrs. Vlasto's Trumps of Addlestone. None of these cham- pions has been excelled in quality during the past few years. Perhaps the best Borzois just now are the Duchess of New- castle's handsome bitch Ch. Revival of Notts and Mrs. Vlasto's Reptile of Addlestone. The Elkhound. — Some few years ago it seemed as if the Elkhound was about to be adopted in this country, but although the breed is classified by the Kennel Club, yet it does not make great headway. In Scandina\'ia the Elkhound does the work of a Pointer, for, as well as for elk and bear hunting, it is used as a gun dog for blackcock. It is remark- able for its powers of scent, and under favourable conditions will scent an elk or a bear three miles away. The breed is a very ancient one, dating back in its origin to the times of the Vikings. InteUigence, courage, and endurance are among its notable characteristics. It is rather short in stature, \\ith an average height of 20 inches. The head, which is carried high, is large and square, broad between the ears ; the stop well defined, the muzzle of good length, the eyes dark and full of expression, the ears sharply pointed and veiy mobile. The neck is short and thick, the chest broad and deep, the back straight and not long. The stern is thick and heavy, and carried curled over the back. As in most northern dogs, the coat is long and deep on the body, with a dense woolly under- coat, but short and smooth about the head. In colour it is grizzle in all its shades, grizzle-brown, black-brown, or black. Tan is rare. A white patch on the chest is frequent, as are white feet. The undercoat is always pale silvery iawn. Four typical specimens were exhibited at Ranelagh Show in 1921, bred by Mrs. George Powell ; but these, I consider, were hardly so good as those shown some years ago by Major A. W. Hicks-Beach. The best kennel of the breed is that kept by the Baroness de Forest. CHAPTER X Coursing and Hunting Dogs The Greyhound — The Whippet — Foxhounds — Harriers AND Beagles As distinct from the larger hounds used in hunting and track- ing are the swifter dogs engaged in coursing contests and for hunting in packs. The Greyhound. — This is the oldest and most conservative of all dogs, and his type has altered singularly little during the seven thousand years in which he is known to have been cherished for his speed, and kept by men for running down the gazelle or coursing the hare. The earliest references to him are far back in the primitive ages, long before he was beautifully depicted by Assyrian artists, straining at the leash or racing after his prey across the desert sands. The Eg^^p- tians loved him and appreciated him centuries before the Pyramids were built. In those days he wore a feathered tail, and his ears were heavy with a silken fringe of hair. His type was that of the modern Arabian Slughi, who is the direct and unaltered descendant of the ancient hound. King Solomon referred to him (Proverbs xxx. 31) as being one of the four things which " go well and are comely in going." That the Greyhound is " comely in going," as well as in repose, was recognized very early by the Greeks, whose artists were fond of introducing this graceful animal as an ornament in their decorative workmanship. In their metal work, their carvings in ivory and stone, and more particularly as parts in the designs on their terra-cotta oil-bottles, wine- coolers, and other vases, the Greyhound is frequently to be seen, sometimes following the hare, and always in remarkably characteristic attitudes. Usually these Greek Greyhounds are represented with prick ears, but occasionally the true rose car is shown. It was not until the reign of Queen Elizabeth that coursing 146 Flwtosraph l-y If. H. Strick. Mrs. Bornian's Borzoi Piostri. Miss Y. A. White's CoursiiiL; (ir(.}hnund Ch. Fascinating Ways. Coursing and Hunting Dogs 147 in England was conducted under established rules. These were drawn up by the then Duke of Norfolk. The sport quickly grew in favour, and continued to increase in popu- larity until the first coursing club was established at Swaff- ham in 1776. Then in 17S0 the Ashdown Park Meeting came into existence. The Newmarket Meeting in 1805 was the next fixture that was inaugurated, and this now remains with the champion stakes as its most important event. Afterwards came the Amesbury Meeting in 1822, and three years later came the Altcar Club. But it was not until eleven years after this period that the Waterloo Cup was instituted (in 1836), to win which is the highest ambition of followers of the leash. At the present time the run for the Waterloo Cup, which at the commencement was an eight-dog stake, is composed of sixty-four nominations, the entry fee for which is £25. The winner takes £500, and the cup, value £100, presented by the Earl of Sefton, the runner-up £200, the third and fourth £50 each, four dogs £36 each, eight dogs £20 each, and sixteen dogs /lo each. The thirty-two dogs beaten in the first round of the Cup compete for the Waterloo Purse, value £215, and the sixteen dogs run out in the second round for the Waterloo Plate, value £145 — the winner in each case taking £75, and the runner-up £30, the remainder being divided amongst the most forward runners in the respective stakes. The Waterloo Cup holds the same position in coursing circles as the Derby does in horse-racing. The National Coursing Club was estabhshed in 1858, when a stud book was commenced, and a code of laws drawn up for the regulation of coursing meetings. This is recognized in Australia and other parts of the world where coursing meetings are held. The Stud Book contains particulars of all the best-known Greyhounds in the United Kingdom, and a dog is not allowed to compete at any of the large meetings held under the Coursing Club rules unless it has been duly entered with its pedigree complete. In fact, the National Coursing Club is more particular in connexion with the pedi- grees of Greyhounds being correctly given than the Kennel Club is about dogs that are exhibited ; and that is saying a great deal. Various opinions have been advanced as to the best size 148 The Complete Book of the Dog and weight for a Greyhound. Like horses, Greyhounds run in all forms, and there is no doubt that a really good big one will always have an advantage over the little ones ; but it is so difficult to find the former, and most of the chief winners of the Waterloo Cup have been comparatively small. Coo- massie was the smallest Greyhound that ever won the Blue Riband of the leash ; she drew the scale at 42 lb., and was credited with the win of the Cup on two occasions. Bab at the Bowster, who is considered by many good judges to have been the best bitch that ever ran, was 2 lb. more ; she won the Cup once, and many other stakes, as she was run all over the country and was not kept for the big event. Master McGrath was a small dog, and only weighed 53 lb., but he won the Waterloo Cup three times. FuUerton, who was a much bigger dog, and was four times declared the winner of the Cup, was 56 lb. in weight. Very few Greyhounds have won the Waterloo Cup more than once, but Cerito was credited with it three times, namely, in 1850, 1852, and 1853, when it was a thirty-two-dog stake. Canaradzo, Bit of Fashion, Miss Glendine, Herschel, Thought- less Beauty, and Fabulous Fortune, are probably some of the best Greyhounds that ever ran besides those already alluded to. Bit of Fashion was the dam of Fullerton, who shares with Master McGrath the reputation of being the two best Greyhounds that ever ran. But Master McGrath came first. During his remarkable career in public he won thirty-six courses out of thirty-seven, the only time that he was de- feated being in 1870 at his third attempt to win the Waterloo Cup, and the flag went up in favour of Mr. Trevor's Lady Lyons. He, however, retrieved his good fortune the following year, when he again ran through the stake. Fullerton, who, when he won all his honours, was the property of Colonel North, was bred by Mr. James Dent in Northumberland. Colonel North gave 850 guineas for him, which was then stated to be the highest price ever paid for a Greyhound. He ran five times altogether for the Waterloo Cup, and was declared the winner on four occasions. The first time was in 1889, when he divided with his kennel com- panion Troughend. Then he won the Cup outright the three following years. In 1893, however, after having been put to Coursing and Hunting Dogs 149 the stud, at which he proved a failure, he was again trained for the Cup, but age had begun to tell its tale, and after win- ning one course he was beaten b}' Mr. Keating's Full Captain, in the second. This was one of the two occasions upon which out of thirty-three courses he failed to raise the flag. On the other he was beaten by Mr. Gladstone's Greengage, when running the deciding course at Haydock Park. It appears like descending from the sublime to the ridicu- lous to mention the Greyhound as a show dog, after the many brilliant performances that have been recorded of him on the leash, but there are many dogs elegant in outline with fine muscular development that are to be seen in the judging ring. Mr. George Raper's Roasting Hot, one of the prominent show dogs of a few years back, was as handsome as a peacock in his fawn and white colouring and elegant shape. On one occasion, after competing successfully at the Kennel Club Show at the Crystal Palace, he was taken to a coursing meeting, where he won the stake in which he was entered. Mr. Harding Cox has owned many Greyhounds that could run well and still win prizes as show dogs, and the same may be said of Miss Maud May's fine kennels in the north of England. Mr. Holgate's Ch. Honours Easy and Miss F. A. \\liite's Ch. Fascinating Ways, are perfect pictures of canine grace. Fascinating Ways is a successful coursing Greyhound, and is always kept in superlative condition. No capable judge of a dog can look at her without being impressed by her absolute beauty of shape and movement. The photograph reproduced on the plate facing p. 146 hardly does her justice. • The following is the standard by which Gre^'hounds should be judged ; Head : Long aud narrow, slightly wider in skull, allowing for plenty of brain room ; lips tight, without any flew, and eyes bright and intelligent and dark in colour. Ears : Small and fine in texture, aud semi-pricked. Teeth : Very strong and level, antl not decayed nor cankered. Neck : Lengthy, without any throatiness, but muscular. Shoulders : Placed well back in the body, and fairly muscular, without being loaded. Forelegs : Perfectly straight, set well into the shoulders, with strong pasterns and toes set well up and close together. Body : Chest very deep, with fairly well-sprung ribs ; muscular back and loms, and well cut up in the flanks. Hind-quarters : ■Wide and well let do%vn, with hocks well bent and close to the ground, with very muscular haunches, showing great propelling power, and tail long and fine and tapering with a slight upward cuiA-e. Coat : Fairly fine in texture. Weight : The ideal weight of a dog is from 60 lb. to 65 lb., of a bitch from 55 lb. to 60 lb. 150 The Complete Book of the Dog The Whippet. — Similar in shape to both breeds, the Whippet is often mistaken by the uninitiated for either a small coursing Greyhound or else a large Italian Greyhound. In size he comes midway between the two. Elegant in style, clean of habit and affectionate in character, he is a most desirable companion. The early writers called him the Snap- dog ; but he is not by nature snappish. The name was given to him in recognition of his skill in snapping up a fugitive rabbit while running at full stretch. He is still used for coursing rabbits, as his larger prototype is used for coursing hares. Whippet-racing as a popular sport is mainly confined to the working classes, the colliers of Lancashire, Yorkshire, Durham and Northumberland being particularly devoted to it. They train their Whippets almost as carefully and deli- cately as a Waterloo Cup winner. Rabbits are not often used, as their waywardness introduces too much the element of chance in a running contest. A rag held by the trainer beyond the winning post provides a better objective. The contests are handicaps, the starting point of each competitor being regulated by the dog's weight and his pre- sumed merit. Each dog, wearing its distinctive ribbon, is taken to its stipulated mark according to the handicap, and there laid hold of by the nape of the neck and hind-quarters ; the real starter stands behind the lot, and after warning all to be ready, discharges a pistol, upon which each slipper swings his dog as far forward as he can possibly throw him, but alwaj's making sure that he alights on his feet. The distance covered in the race is generally 200 yards, minus the starts allotted, and some idea of the speed at which these very active little animals can travel may be gleaned from the fact that the full distance has been covered in rather under 12 seconds. In order to induce each dog to do its best, the owner, or more probably the trainer, stands beyond the winning post, and frantically waves a towel or very stout rag. Accom- panied by a babel of noise, the race is started. The dogs make a bee-line for their goal, at the far end of the track, one and all as they finish taking a flying leap at their trainer's towel, to which they hold on with such tenacity that they are swung round in the air. The speed at which they are Coursing and Hunting Dogs 151 travelling makes this movement necessary in many cases to enable the dog to avoid accident, particularly where the space beyond the winning mark is limited. For racing purposes there is a wide margin of size allowed to the dogs, anything from 8 lb. to 23 lb., or even more, being ehgible ; but in view of the handicap terms those dogs which possess speed, and scale 9 lb. to 12 lb. amongst the light-weights, and over 17 lb. in the heavy ones, are considered to have the best chance. It is recognized that bitches are faster than dogs, and in consequence the terms upon which they are handicapped are varied. The general custom is to allow a dog 2| to 3 yards advantage for every pound difference in weight between it and the competing bitch. One of the fastest dogs that ever ran was Collier Lad, but he was almost a Greyhound in size. Whitefoot, whose owner challenged the world, and was considered to be quite unbeatable, was a Whippet in every sense, and was a nice medium weight, though probably Capplebank's time of ii| seconds stands alone. The best of the pre-war racing-dogs were Polly fro' Astley (15 lb.), Dinah (11^ lb.), and Eva (gf lb.). The training of Whippets is by no means easy work, and is more expensive than most people imagine. The very choicest food is deemed absolutely necessary ; in fact, a Whippet undergoing preparation for an important race is provided with the most wholesome fare. Choice mutton- chops, beef-steaks and similar dainties comprise their daily portion. Of course, exercise is a necessity, but it is not con- sidered good policy to allow a dog in training to gambol about either on the roads or in the fields. Indeed, all dogs which are undergoing preparation for a race are practically deprived of their freedom, in lieu of which they are walked along hard roads secured by a lead ; and for fear of their picking up the least bit of refuse each is securely muzzled by a box-like leather arrangement which completely envelops the jaws, but which is freely perforated to permit proper breathing. Any distance between six and a dozen miles a day, according to the stamina and condition of the dog, is supposed to be the proper amount of exercise, and scales are brought into use every few days to gauge the effect which is being produced. 152 The Complete Book of the Dog Colour in the Whippet is absolutely of no importance to a good judge, though possibly what is known as the peach fawn is the favourite among amateur fanciers. Red fawns, blue or slate coloured, black, brindled of various shades, and these colours intermingled with white, are most to be met with, however. In some quarters the idea is prevalent that Whippets are delicate in their constitution, but this is a popular error. Probably their disinclination to go out of doors when the weather is cold and wet may account for the opinion, but given the freedom of a house the Whippet will find a comfortable place, and will rarely ail anything. In scores of houses W'hippets go to bed with the children, and are so clean that even scrupulous housewives take no objec- tion to their finding their way under the clothes to the foot of the bed, thereby serving as an excellent footwarmer in the winter months. Probably in no other breed, except the Greyhound, do judges attach so little importance to the shape of the head ; so long as the jaws are fairly long and the colour of the eyes somewhat in keeping with that of the body, very little else is looked for in front of the ears. As in the case of racing competitors, really good dogs for show purposes are much more difficult to find than bitches. The best of the males are not so classical in outline as the females, though some of them are as good in legs and feet — points which are of the greatest importance. Such authorities on Whippet -racing as Ralph Harper and Joe Chadwick would not allow that a good- looking show dog could also be a good racer ; but there have been exceptions, and such beautiful Whippets of a few years ago as Shirley Dixie, Manorley Mode, and Lottie Hampton, and such recent champions of the breed as Shirley Sunstar, Kemmel, and Delphine are none the less to be admired if they have not been prizewinners on the racing track. The Whippet Club's standard of points is : Head : Long and lean, rather wide between the eyes and flat on the top ; the jaw powerful yet cleanly cut ; the teeth level and white. Eyes : Bright and fiery. Ears : vSmall, fine in texture and rose shape. Neck : Long and muscular, elegantly arched and free from throatiness. Shoulders : Oblique and muscular. Chest : Deep and capacious. Back : Broad and square, rather long and slightly arched over the loin, which should be strong and powerful. Forelegs : Rather long, well set under the dog, possessing a fair amount of bone. Hind-quarters : vStrong and broad across stilles, well bent Coursing and Hunting Dogs 153 thighs, broad and muscular ; hocks well let down. Ihrt : Round, well split up, with strong soles. Coat: Fine and close. Colour: Black, red, white, brindle, fawn, blue, and the various mixtures of each. Weight : 20 lb. The Foxhound. — There is plenty of proof that Foxhounds were the very lirst of the canine races in Great Britain to come under the domination of scientific breeding. There had been hounds of more ancient origin, such as the Southern Hound and the Bloodhound ; but something different was wanted towards the end of the seventeenth century to hunt the wild deer that had become somewhat scattered after Cromwell's civil war. The demand was consequently for a quicker hound than those hitherto known, and people devoted to the chase began to breed it. Whether there were crosses at first remains in dispute, but there is more probability that the policy adopted was one of selection ; those exceptionally fast were bred with the same, until the slow, steady line hunter was improved out of his very character and shape. At any rate, there are proofs that in 1710 hounds were to be found in packs, carefully bred, and that at that time some of the hunts in question devoted attention to the fox. The first known kennel of all was at Wardour Castle, and was said to have been established in 1696 ; but more reliable is the date of the Brocklesby, commenced in 1713. The first record of a pack of hounds being sold was in 1730, when a Mr. Fownes sold his pack to a Mr. Bowles. The latter gentle- man showed great sport with them in Yorkshire. At that time Lord Hertford began to hunt the Cotswold country, in Gloucestershire, and was tlie first to draw coverts for fox in the modern style. Very soon after this it became the fashion of the day to breed hounds. It was the rule to breed them on the most scientific principles, and by 1750 there were fifty such breeders, including the fifth Duke of Beaufort, Lord Lincoln, Lord Stamford, Lord Percival, Lord Granby, Lord Ludlow, Lord Vernon, Lord Carlisle, Lord Mexbro, Sir Walter Vavasour, Sir Roland Winns, Mr. Noel, Mr. Stanhope, Mr. Meynell, Mr. Barry, and Mr. Charles Pelham. The last- named gentleman, afterwards the first Lord Yarborough, was perhaps the most indefatigable of all, as he was the first to start the system of walking puppies amongst his tenantry, on the Brocklesby estates, and of keeping lists of hound pedi- 154 The Complete Book of the Dog grees and ages. By 1760 all the above-named noblemen and gentlemen had been breeding from each other's kennels. The hounds were registered, as can be seen now in Lord Middlcton's private kennel stud book, through which his lordship can trace the pedigrees of his present pack to hounds that were entered in 1760, got by Raytor, son of Merryman and grandson of Lord Granby's Ranter. Another pedigree was that of Ruby, who is credited with a numerous progeny, as she was by Raytor out of Mr. Stapleton's Cruel by Sailor, a son of Lord Granby's Sailor by Mr. Noel's Victor. This shows well how seriously Foxhound breeding was gone into before the middle of the eighteenth century. Portraits prove also that a hound approaching very closely to those of modern times had been produced at this early period. By such evi- dence the Foxhound had outstripped the Harrier in size by nearly 5 inches, as the latter does not appear to have been more than 18 inches, and the early Foxhound would have been 23 inches. Then the heavy shoulder, the dewlap, and jowl of the Southern Hound had been got rid of, and the coat had been somewhat altered. The old school of breeders had evidently determined upon great speed and the ability to stay, through the medium of deep ribs, heart room, wide loins, length of quarter, quality of bone, straightness of foreleg, and round strong feet ; the slack-loined, loosely built, and splay-footed hound of former generations had been left behind. To such perfection, indeed, had the Foxhound attained, that long before the close of the eighteenth century sportsmen were clamouring as to what a Foxhound could do. With so much prominence given to the Foxhound in the comparatively short period of forty or fifty years, it is no wonder that individual hounds became very celebrated in almost every part of the country. Mr. Pelham's Rockwood Tickler and Bumper were names well known in Yorkshire, and Lord Ludlow's Powerful and Growler were talked of both in Lincolnshire and Warwickshire. From the first, indeed, it appeared that certain hounds were very much better than others, and old huntsmen have generally declared for one which was in the whole length of their careers (sometimes extending to fifty years) immeasurably superior to all others they had hunted. Harry Ayris, who was for just half a Coursing and Hunting Dogs 155 century with Lord FitzHardingc, declared to the day of his death that nothing had equalled Cromwell ; Osbaldeston said the same of Furrier, and Frank Gillard never faltered from the opinion that Weathergage was quite by himself as the best hound he ever hunted. The Foxhound Kennel Stud Book abounds in the strongest proofs that hereditary merit in their work has been transmitted from these wonderful hounds, and they really make the history of the Foxhound. There have been many great hounds ; but there must be the greatest of the great, and the following twelve hounds are probably the best England has ever seen : Mr. Corbet's Trojan (1780), Lord Middleton's Vanguard (1815), Mr. Osbaldeston's Furrier (1820), Lord Henry Bentinck's Contest (1848), Lord FitzHardinge's Cromwell (1855), Mr. Drake's Duster (1844), Sir Richard Sutton's Dryden {1849), the Duke of Rutland's Senator (1862), Duke of Rutland's Weathergage (1874), the Earl of Coventry's Rambler (1874), Mr. E. P. Rawnsley's Freeman (1884), and the Grafton Woodman (1892). Breeding Foxhounds is one of the most fascinating of all the pleasures of animal culture, as the above list, so full of extreme merit, can be traced for nearly a hundred and thirty years. The hounds themselves have improved very much in looks during the past thirty years, and unquestionably they are not less capable in the field. There has been a sUght tendency to increase size of late years. The Belvoir dog- hound is within very little of 24 inches instead of 23I inches, the standard of thirty years ago, and this increase has become very general. In elegance of form nothing has been lost, and there can be no other to possess beauty combined with power and the essential points for pace and endurance in the same degree as a Foxhound. A detailed description of the Foxliound is here given : Head : Somewhat broad, not peaked like the Bloodhound, but long from the apex to the frontal bones, eyebrows very prominent, cheeks cut clean from the eye to the nostril, ears set low and in their natural condition thin and shapely, but not large, ♦nose large, jaw strong and level, and small dewlaps, expression fierce, and with the best often repellent. Eyes : Very bright and deeply set, ftill of determination, and with a very steady expression. The look of the Foxhound is very remarkable. A'eck : Should be perfectly clean, no skin ruffle whatever, or neck cloth, as huntsmen call it. The length of neck is of importance, both for stooping and giving an air of majesty. Shoulders : The blades should be well into the back, and should slant, other- wise be wide and strong, to meet the arms, that should be long and powerful. 156 The Complete Book of the Dog Legs and Feel : The bone should be perfectly straight from the ami downward, and descend in the same degree of size to the ankles, or, as the saying is. " down to his toes." The knee should be almost flat and level ; there should be no curve until coming to the toes, which should be very strong, round, cat-shaped, and every toe clean set as it were. Fore-ribs and Brisket : Deep, fine ribs are very essential, and the brisket should be well below the elbows. Back and Loins : Back should be straight. A hollow back offends the eye much, and a roach back is worse. The loin wide, back ribs deep and long, a slight prominence over the croup. Quarters and Hocks : The quarters cannot be too long, full, showing a second thigh, and meeting a straight hock low down, the shank bone short, and meeting shapely feet. Coat : The coat is hard hair, but short and smooth, the texture is as stiff as bristles, but beautifully laid. Colour : Belvoir tan, wdiich is browii and black, perfectly intermixed, with white markings of various shapes and sizes. The white should be very opaque and clear. Black and white, with tan markings on head and stifles. Badger pied, a kind of grey and white. Lemon pied, light yellow and white. Hare pied, a darker yellow and white. Stern : Long and carried gaily, but not curled ; often half white. Height : Dogs from 23^ to 24 inches ; bitches from 22 to 22^ inches. The Foxhound is- very seldom on exhibition excepting only at the great hound show at Peterborough, which has become a very great national institution. Masters of hounds send representatives from every part of the kingdom, and the annual show in July brings more hunting people together than any other fixture of the summer season. Similarly, the Foxhound is not among the dogs which are kept separateh^ as companions. He belongs to the kennels of the hunting country in which his lot is cast, and it is only by the courtesy of the M.F.H. that a hound passes into the care of a private individual. Lovers of dogs, however, who live in a hunting neighbourhood may usualh' be allowed to take a puppy into their charge and rear it until it is ready to be entered. Harriers. — It is a common belief that the modern Harrier is but a smaller edition of the Foxhound, reduced by selection and employed for hunting the hare instead of the fox, and it is almost useless to reiterate that it is a distinct breed of hound that can boast of possibly greater antiquity than any other, or to insist upon the fact that Xcnophon himself kept a pack of Harriers over two thousand years ago. Nevertheless, in general appearance the Harrier and the Foxliound are very much alike, a description of the one applying to the other, the one obvious distinction being that of size. Opinions differ, even among Masters of Harriers, as to what standard of height it is advisable to aim at. If you want to hunt your Harriers on foot, 16 inches is quite big Coursing and Hunting Dogs 157 enough — almost too big to run with ; but if you arc riding to them, 20 inches is a useful height, or even 19 inches. Either is a good workable size, and such hounds should be able to slip along fast enough for most people. Choose your hounds with plenty of bone, but not too clumsy or heavy ; a round, firm neck, not too short, with a swan-like curve ; a lean head with a long muzzle and fairly short cars ; a broad chest with plenty of lung room, forelegs like gun barrels, straight and strong ; hind-legs with good thighs and well-let-down hocks ; feet, round like cats' feet, and a well-set-on, tapering stern. It is useless to lay down any hard-and-fast rule as to colour. It is so much a matter of individual taste. Some Masters have a great fancy for the dark colouring of the old Southern Hound, but nothing could look much smarter than a good combination of Belvoir tan with black and white. Puppies, as a rule, a week or two after they are whelped, show a greater proportion of dark marking than any other, but this as they grow older soon alters, and their white mark- ing becomes much more conspicuous. As in the case of the Foxhound, the Harrier is very seldom kept as a companion apart from the pack. But puppies are usually sent out to walk, and may easily be procured to be kept and reared until they are old enough to be entered to their work. Beagles. — Smaller still than the Harrier, and again a dis- tinct breed of hound, is the Beagle. He is indeed the most diminutive of all our hounds that hunt in packs, and there is nothing to surpass him in beauty, whether he is seen either on the flags of his kennel or busy at his work in unravelling a difficulty on the line of a dodging hare. In neatness he is really the little model of a Foxhound. He is, of course, finer, but with the length of neck so perfect in the bigger hound, the little shoulders of the same pattern, and the typical quarters and second thighs. Dorsetshire used to be the great county for Beagles. The downs there were exactly fitted for them, and years ago, when roe-deer were preserved on the large estates, Beagles were used to hunt this small breed of deer. The uses of the Beagle in the early days of the last century were a good deal diversified. They were hunted in big woodlands to drive game to the gun, and perhaps the ordinary Beagle of from 158 The Complete Book of the Dog 12 inches to 14 inches was not big enough for the requirements of the times. It is quite possible, therefore, that the Beagle was crossed with the Welsh, Southern or Otterhound, to get more size and power, as there certainly was a Welsh rough- coated Beagle of good 18 inches, and an almost identical contemporary that was called the Essex Beagle. That a great many of the true order were bred became very manifest as soon as the Harrier and Beagle Association was formed, and more particularly when a section of the Peterborough Hound Show was reserved for them. Then they seemed to spring from every part of the country. In 1896 one became well acquainted with many packs that had apparently held aloof from the dog shows. There was the Cheshire, the Christ Church (Oxford), Mr. T. Johnson' s, the Royal Rock, the Thorpe Satchville, the Worcestershire, and in particular the Marquis of Linlithgow's pack, and of late there have been many more that are as well known as packs of Foxhounds. Beagle owners, like the Masters of Foxhound and Harrier kennels, have never been very partial to the ordinary dog shows, and so the development of the up-to-date Beagle, as seen at recent shows, is somewhat new. They are very beau- tiful little hounds, can give a vast amount of amusement, and, for the matter of that, healthy exercise. If a stout runner can keep within fairly easy distance of a pack of weU- bred Beagles on the line of a lively Jack hare, he is in the sort of condition to be generally envied. Description of the Beagle. — Head : Fair length, powerful without being coarse ; skull domed, moderately wide, with an indication of peak, stop well defined, muzzle not snipy, and lips well flewed. Nose : Black, broad, and nostrils well expanded. Eyes : Brown, dark hazel or hazel, not deep set nor bulgy, and with a mild expression. Ears : Long, set on low, fine in texture, and hanging in a graceful fold close to the cheek. Neck : Moderately long, slightly arched, the throat showing some dewlap. Shoulders : Clean and slightly sloping. Body : Short between the couplings, well let down in chest, ribs fairly well sprung and well ribbed up, with powerful and not tucked-up loins. Hind-quarters : Very muscular about the thighs, stifles and hocks well bent, and hocks well let down. Forelegs : Quite straight, well under the dog, of good substance and round in the bone. Feet : Round, well knuckled up, and strongly padded. Stern : Moderate length, set on high, thick and carried gaily, but not curled over the back. Colour : Any recognized hound colour. Coat : Smooth variety — Smooth, very dense and not too fine or short. Rough variety — Very dense, and wiry. Height : Not exceed- ing 16 inches. Pocket Beagles must not exceed 10 inches. General Appear- ance : A compactly built hound, without coarseness, conveying the im- pression of great stamina and vivacity. CHAPTER XI Gun Dogs The Pointer — The Setters — Retrievers and Labradors The Pointer. — It has never been made quite clear in history why the Spaniards had a dog that was very remarkable for pointing all kinds of game. They have always been a pleasure- loving people, certainly, but more inclined to bull-fighting than field-craft, and yet as early as 1600 they must have had a better dog for game-finding than could have been found in any other part of the world. Singularly enough, too, the most esteemed breeds in many countries can be traced from the same source, such as the Russian Pointer, the German Pointer, the French double-nosed Griffon, and, far more important still, the English Pointer. A view has been taken that the Spanish double-nosed Pointer was introduced into England about two hundred years ago, when fire-arms were beginning to be popular for fowling purposes. Setters and Spaniels had been used to find and drive birds into nets, but as the Spanish Pointer became known it was apparently con- sidered that he alone had the capacity to find game for the gun. This must have been towards the end of the seven- teenth century, and for the next fifty years at least something very slow was wanted to meet the necessities of the old- fashioned flintlock gun, which occupied many minutes in loading and getting into position. Improvements came by degrees, until they set in very rapidly, but probably by 1750, when hunting had progressed a good deal, and pace was increased in all pastimes, the old-fashioned Pointer was voted a nuisance through his extreme caution and tortoise-like movements. There is evidence, through portraits, that Pointers had been altogether changed by the year 1800, but it is possible that the breed then had been continued by selection rather than by crossing for a couple of decades, as it is qiiite certain 159 i6o The Complete Book of the Dog that by 1815 sportsmen were still dissatisfied with the want of pace in the Pointer, and many are known to have crossed their Pointers with Foxhounds at about that time. By 1835 the old Spanish Pointer had been left behind, and the English dog was a perfect model for pace, stamina, resolution, and nerve. The breed was exactly adapted to the requirements of that day, which was not quite as fast as the present. Men shot with good Joe Mantons, did their own loading, and walked to their dogs, working them right and left by hand and whistle. The dogs beat their ground methodically, their heads at the right level for body scent, and when they came on game, down they were ; the dog that had got it pointing, and the other backing or awaiting developments. There was nothing more beautiful than the work of a well-bred and well-broken brace of Pointers, or more perfect than the way a man got his shots from them. There was nothing slow about them, but, on the contrary, they went a great pace, seemed to shoot into the very currents of air for scent, and yet there was no impatience such as might have been expected from the Foxhound cross. The truth of it was that the capacity to concentrate the whole attention on the object found was so intense as to have lessened every other pro- pensity. The rush of the Foxhound had been absorbed by the additional force of the Pointer character. There has been nothing at all like it in canine culture, and it came out so wonderfully after men had been shooting in the above manner for about forty years. It was nearing the end of this period that field trials began to occupy the attention of breeders and sportsmen, and although Setters had been getting into equal repute for the beauty of their work, there was something more brilliant about the Pointers at first. Brockton's Bounce was a mag- nificent dog, a winner on the show bench, and of the first Field Trial in England. Newton's Ranger was another of the early performers, and he was very staunch and brilliant, but it was in the next five years that the most extraordinary Pointer merit was seen, as quite incomparable was Sir Richard Garth's Drake, who was just five generations from the Spanish Pointer. Drake was rather a tall, gaunt dog, but with immense depth of girth, long shoulders, long haunches, and a benevolent, Gun Dogs i6i quiet countenance. It was calculated that he went lifty miles an hour, and at this tremendous pace he would stop as if petrified, and the momentum would cover him with earth and dust. He did not seem capable of making a mistake, and his birds were always at about the same distance from him, to show thereby his extraordinary nose and confidence. Nothing in his day could beat him in a field. He got some good stock, but although none of them had his pace, some were capital performers, such as Sir Thomas Lcnnard's Mallard, Mr, George Pilkington's Tory, Mr. Lloyd Price's Luck of Edenhall, Lord Downe's Mars and Bounce, and Mr. Barclay Field's Riot. When Sir Richard Garth went to India and sold his kennel of Pointers at Tattersall's, Mr. Lloyd Price gave 150 guineas for Drake. The mid-century owners and breeders had all the advan- tages of what a past generation had done, as there were cer- tainly many wonderful Pointers in the 'fifties, 'sixties, and 'seventies. They were produced very regularly, too, in a marvellous type of perfection. Mr. William Arkwright, of Sutton Scarsdale, Derbyshire, had probably the best kennel in England before the war. He discovered and revived an old breed of the north of England that was black, and bred for a great many years by Mr. Pape, of Carlisle, and his father before him. With these Mr. Arkwright bred to the best working strains. Elias Bishop, of Newton Abbot, kept up the old breeds of Devon Pointers, the Ch. Bangs, the Mikes, and the Brackenburg Romps, and his have been amongst the best during the past decade, while Mr. Isaac Sharpe remains one of the most prominent and successful breeders of distinguished Pointers. There are, of course, exceptions to the rule that many of the modern Pointers do not carry about them the air of their true business ; but it would appear that fewer people keep them now than was the case a quarter of a century ago, owing to the advance of quick-shooting, otherwise driving, and the consequent falling away of the old-fashioned methods, both for the stubble and the moor. However, there are many still who enjoy the work of dogs, and it would be a sin indeed in the calendar of British sports if the fine old breed of Pointer were allowed even to deteriorate. The Pointer is a noble breed i62 The Complete Book of the Dog to take up, as those still in middle life have seen its extra- ordinary merit whenever bred in the right way. As to the essential points of the breed, they may be set down as follows : Head : Should be wide from ear to ear, long and slanting from the top of the skull to the setting on of the nose ; cheek bones prominent ; ears set low and thin in texture, soft and velvety ; nose broad at the base ; mouth large and jaws level. Neck : The neck should be very strong, but long and slightly arched, meeting shoulders well knit into the back, which shoiild be straight and joining a wide loin. There should be great depth of heart room, very deep brisket, narrow chest rather than otherwise, shoulders long and slanting. Legs and Feet : Should be as nearly hke the Foxhound's as possible. There should be really no difference, as they must be straight, the knees big, and the bone should be of goodly size down to the toes, and the feet should be very round and cat-shaped. Hind-quarlers : A great feature in the Pointer is his hind-quarters. He cannot well be too long in the haunch or strong in the stifle, which should be well bent, and the muscles in the second thigh of a good Pointer are always remarkable. The hocks may be straighter than even in a Foxhoxmd, as, in pulling up sharp on his point, he in a great measure throws his weight on them ; the shank bones below the hock should be short. Colour : There have been good ones of all colours. The Derby colours were always liver and whites for their Pointers and black breasted reds for their game-cocks. The Seftons were liver and whites also, and so were the Edges of Strelly, but mostly heavily ticked. Brockton's Bounce was so, and so were Ch. Bang, Mike, and Young Bang. Drake was more of the Derby colour ; dark liver and white. Mr. Whitehouse's were mostly lemon and whites, after Hamlet of that colour, and notable ones of the same hue were Squire, Bang Bang, and Mr. White- house's Pax and Priam, all winners of field trials. There have been several very good black and whites. Mr. Francis's, afterwards Mr. Salter's, Chang was a field trial winner of this colour. A still better one was Mr. S. Becket's Rector, a somewhat mean little dog to look at, but quite extraordinary in his work, as he won the Pointer Puppy Stake at Shrewsbury and the All- Aged Stake three years in succession. Mr. Salter's Romp family were quite remarkable in colour — a white ground, heavily shot with black in patches and in ticks. There have never been any better Pointers than these. There have been, and are, good black Pointers also. Height and Size : A big Pointer dog stands from 24J inches to 25 inches at the shoulder. Old Ch. Bang and Young Bang were of the former height, and the great bitch, Mr. Lloyd Price's^Belle, was 24 inches. For big Pointers 60 lb. is about the weight for dogs and 56 lb. bitches ; smaller size, 54 lb. dogs and 48 lb. bitches. There have been some very good ones still smaller. The Setters. — In some form or other Setters are to be found wherever guns are in frequent use and irrespective of the precise class of work they have to perform ; but their proper sphere is either on the moors, when the red grouse are in quest, or on the stubbles and amongst the root crops, when September comes in, and the partridge season commences. Though Setters are divided into three distinct varieties — the EngUsh, the Irish, and the Gordon or Black-and-tan — all have a common origin. Nearly all authorities agree that the Spaniel family is accountable on one side, and this con- tention is borne out to a considerable extent by old illustrations Mr. W. She.Trer Clark's Pointer Ch. Lunesdale George. * ^P^^Mt^ Pointers and Setters at work in the stubble. Mr. ti. C. Atkinson's English Setter Crossfell. Gun Dogs 163 and paintings of Setters at work, in which they are depicted as being very much like the old liver and white Spaniel, though of different colours. Doubt exists as to the other side of their heredity, but the most reasonable evidence gives the credit to the old Spanish Pointer. Where else could they inherit that wonderful scenting power, that style in which they draw up to their game, their statuesque attitude when on point, and, above all, the staunchness and patience by which they hold their game spellbound until the shooter has time to walk leisurely up, even from a considerable distance ? But, apart from the question of their origin, the different varieties have many other attributes in common ; all per- form the same kind of work and in the same manner ; con- sequently the system of breaking or training them varies only according to the temper or ideas of those who undertake their schooling. The English Setter. — Seen either at its legitimate work as a gun dog or as a domestic companion, the English Setter is one of the most graceful and beautiful of all sporting dogs, and its elegant form and feathery coat command instant admiration. Thirty years ago it was known by several distinct names, among the more important being the Blue Beltons and Laveracks, and this regardless of any considera- tion as to whether or not the dogs were in any way connected by relationship. It was the great increase in the number of shows and some confusion on the part of exhibitors that made it necessary for the Kennel Club to classify under one heading these and others which had attained some amount of nota- bility, and the old terms have gradually been dropped, while the distinctive colour and markings have been conserved. White predominates as the ground colour in most of the recognized strains, and it is perhaps by an occasional crossing with the Pointer that in some types patches of black or liver, lemon or orange, are to be seen. These patches ought never to be heavy, and the Setter whose silvery white coat is lightly flecked with blue is still preferred to the tricoloured variety, which is black, white, and tan. Until comparatively recently exhibition Setters and work- ing Setters were kept artificially distinct and judged from different points of view. Judges who were not themselves i64 The Complete Book of the Dog sporting men cared little about the dog's capabilities as a game-finder so long as he answered to their ideal of anatomy and canine beauty, and possessed what is known as a classical head. Sporting men, on the other hand, were reluctant to admit that the modern exhibition Setter could be useful for high-class work as practical game-finders in the field. The prejudice in favour of working dogs was justified by the circumstance that man^v' owners of show Setters wholly neglected the train- ing of their dogs, but bred them from generation to generation simply for exhibition purposes. In such conditions it was not to be wondered at that the dog's capacity for fine scenting and his natural aptitude for quickly picking up a knowledge of his proper duties were impaired. But there was clearly no reason why a beautiful exhibition dog should not also be a capable worker, and the edict of the Kennel Club which rules that no gun dog shall be entitled to championship honours until it has gained a certificate of merit in field trials has had the desired effect of improving the working qualities of all the breeds whose province is in the finding and retrieving of game. Man}' of Mr. T. Steadman's champion English Setters, bearing his " MaUwyd " prefix, have gained high distinction for their perfect work in field trials as well as for their excellence in the judging ring at shows ; and the same may be said of the Setters bred by Colonel J. C. Cotes, Mr. H. Gunn, Mr. E. Cockill, Mr. F. C. Lowe, and Mr. J. H. Salter. The following is the standard of points issued by the English Setter Club : Head : The head should be long and lean, with well-defined stop. The skull oval from ear to ear, showmg plenty of brain room, and with a well- defined occipital protuberance. 'Che muzzle m^oderately deep and fairly square ; from the stop to the point of the nose should be long, the nostrils wide, and the jaws of nearly equal length ; flews not too pendulous. The colour of the nose should be black, or dark, or light liver, according to the colour of the coat. The eyes should be bright, mild, and intelligent, and of a dark hazel colour, the darker the better. The ears of moderate length, set on low and hanging in neat folds close to the cheek ; the tip should be velvety, tlie upper part clothed with fine silky hair. Neck : The neck should be rather long, muscular, and lean, slightly arched at tlie crest, and clean cut where it joins the head ; towards the shoulder it should be larger, and very muscular, not throaty with any pcndulosity below the throat, but elegant and bloodlike in appearance. Body : The body should be of moder- ate length, with shoulders well set back or oblique ; back short and level ; loins wide, slightly arched, strong and muwcuhir. Chest deep in tlie brisket, with good round widely sprung ribs, deep iu the back ribs — that is, well Gun Dog^s 165 ribbed up. Legs and Feel : The slides should be 'well bent and ragged, thighs long from hip to hock. The forearm big and very muscular, the elbow well let down. Pasterns short, muscular, and straight. The feet very close and compact, and well protected by hair between the toes. Tail : The tail should be set on almost iii a line with the back ; medium, length, not curly or ropy, to be slightly curved or scimitar-shaped, but with no tendency to turn upwards ; the flag or feather hanging in long, pendent flakes ; the feather should not commence at the root, but slightly below, and increase in length to the middle, then gradually taper off towards the end ; and tlie hair long, bright, soft and silky, wavy but not curly. Coat and Feather- ing : The coat from the back of the head in a line with the ears ought to be slightly wavy, long, and silky, which should be the case with the coat generally ; the breeches and forelegs, nearly down to the feet, should be well feathered. Colour and Markings]: The colour may be either black and white, lemon and white, liver and white, or tricolour — that is, black, white, and tan ; tliose without heavy patches of colour on the body, but flecked all over, preferred. The Irish Setter. — Though this variety has not attained such popularity as its EngUsh cousin, it is not because it is regarded as being less pleasing to the eye, for in general appearance of style and outline there is very little difference ; in fact, none, if the chiselling of the head and colour of the coat be excepted. The beautiful rich golden chestnut colour which predominates in all well-bred specimens is in itself sufficient to account for the great favour in which they are regarded generally, while their disposition is sufficiently engaging to attract the attention of those who desire to have a moderate-sized dog as a companion. Probably this accounts for so many lady exhibitors in England preferring them to the other varieties of Setters. Mrs. Ingle-Bepler's beautiful Irish Setters are always a conspicuous feature at the large dog shows in and near London, and they have taken many championships. Miss N. Whittome, Mrs. E. M. Knight, and Mrs. R. Ames are also prominent breeders and exhibitors of this charming variety. On the Continent the Irish Setter is even more popular as a lady's dog than in Great Britain. We have to go over to its native country to find the breed most highly esteemed as a sporting dog for actual work, and there it is naturally first favourite. It has been suggested that all Irish Setters are too headstrong to make really high- class field trial dogs. Some of them, on the contrary, are as great in speed and not only as clever at their business, but quite as keen-nosed as other Setters. Some which have com- peted within the past few years at the Irish Red Setter Club's i66 The Complete Book of the Dog trials have had as rivals the best Pointers from England and Scotland, and have successfully held their own. The Club's description is similar to that of the English Setter excepting in the point of colour, which in the Irish variety should be a rich golden chestnut, with no trace what- ever of black, although white on the chest, throat, or toes, a small star on the forehead or a narrow streak of white on the nose is not a disqualification. The colour of the nose itself should be dark mahogany or dark walnut. The Black-and-tan Setter. — Originally this variety was known as the Gordon Setter, but this title was only partly correct, as the particular dogs first favoured by the Duke of Gordon, from whom they took the name, were black, tan, and white, heavily built, and somewhat clumsy in appearance. But the introduction of the Irish blood had the effect of making a racier-looking dog more fashionable, the presence of white on the chest was looked upon with disfavour, and the Kennel Club settled the difficulty of name by abolishing the term " Gordon " altogether. Very few of this variety have appeared at field trials for several years past, but on the few occasions when the oppor- tunity has been presented they have acquitted themselves at least as well as their rivals of other varieties, proving to be as fast, as staunch, and as obedient as any of them. A notable example of this occurred some seasons ago when Mr. Isaac Sharpe's Stylish Ranger excelled all his competitors at the trials and effectually put a stop to the silly argument that the Gordon Setters are old men's dogs. It is difficult to account for the lack of interest which is taken in the variety outside Scotland, but the fact remains that very few have appeared at field trials within recent years, and that the Black-and-tan is rarely seen at present- day shows. At the Kcnnol Club Show of 192 1 only six speci- mens were exhibited, and all of these were bred and shown by Dr. L. Turton-Price, of Dundee. The Black-and-tan Setter is heavier than either the English or Irish variety, but shows more of the hound and less of the Spaniel. The head is stronger than that of the English Setter, with a deeper and broader muzzle and heavier lips. The ears are also somewhat longer, and the eyes frequently Gun Dogs 167 show the haw. The black should be as jet, and entirely free from white. The tan on the cheeks and over the eyes, on the feet and pasterns, should be bright and clearly defined, and the feathering on the forelegs and thighs should also be a rich, dark mahogany tan. In other respects the standard of points for the English variety is a sufficiently explicit description. Amongst the oldest and most successful owners of Setters who have consistently competed at field trials may be men- tioned Colonel Cotes, whose Prince Frederick was probably the most wonderful backer ever known : Messrs. Purcell- Llewellyn, W. Arkwright, Elias and James Bishop, F. C. Lowe, J. Shorthose, G. Potter and S. Smale, who may be considered the oldest Setter judges, and who have owned dogs whose prowess in the field has brought them high reputation. Mr. B. J. Warwick owned probably more winners at field trials than any other owner, one of his greatest being Compton Bounce. Colonel Heywood Lonsdale has on several occa- sions proved the Ightfield strain to be staunch and true, as witness the splendid success he achieved at the Spring trials in 1921 with his Ightfield Prudence, to say nothing of his many earlier successes at the grouse trials in Scotland. Mr. Herbert Mitchell has been another good patron of the trials, and has won many important stakes. Mr. A. T. Williams has also owned noted trial winners. The Retrievers. — It is obviously useless to shoot game unless you can find it after it has been wounded or killed, and from the earliest times it has been the habit of sportsmen to train their dogs to do the work which they could not always successfully do for themselves. The Pointers, Setters, and Spaniels of our forefathers were carefully broken not only to find and stand their game, but also to fetch the fallen birds. This use of the setting and pointing dog is still common on the Continent and in the United States, and there is no in- accuracy in a French artist depicting a Pointer with a par- tridge in its mouth, or showing a Setter retrieving waterfowl. The Springer and the old curly-coated water-dog were regarded as particularly adroit in the double work of finding and retrieving. Pointers and Setters who had been thus broken were found to deteriorate in steadiness in the field. i68 The Complete, Book of the Dog and it gradually came to be realized that even the Spaniel's capacity for retrieving was limited. A larger and quicker dog was wanted to divide the labour, and to be used solely as a retriever in conjunction with the other gun dogs. The Poodle was tried for retrieving with some success, and he showed considerable aptitude in hnding and fetching wounded wild duck ; but he, too, was inclined to maul his birds and deliver them dead. Even the Old English Sheepdog was occasionally engaged in the work, and various crosses with Spaniel or Setter and Collie were attempted in the endeavour to produce a grade breed having the desired qualities of a good nose, a soft mouth, and an understanding brain, together with a coat that would protect its wearer from the ill effects of frequent immersion in water. It was when these efforts were most active — namely, about the year 1850 — that new material was discovered in a black- coated dog recently introduced into England from Labrador. He was a natural water-dog, with a constitution impervious to chills, and entirely free from the liability to ear canker, which had always been a drawback to the use of the Spaniel as a retriever of waterfowl. Moreover, he was himself reputed to be a born retriever of game, and remarkably sagacious. His importers called him a Spaniel — a breed name which at one time was also applied to his relative the Newfoundland. Probably there were not many specimens of the race in England, and, although there is no record explicitly saying so, it is conjectured that these were crossed with the Enghsh Setter, producing what is now familiarly known as the black flat-coated Retriever. One very remarkable attribute of the Retriever is that, notwithstanding the known fact that the parent stock was mongrel and that in the early dogs the Setter type largely predominated, the ultimate result has favoured the Labrador cross distinctly and prominently, proving how potent, even when grafted upon a stock admittedly various, is the blood of a pure race, and how powerful its influence for fixing type and character over the other less vital elements with which it is blended. It is only comparatively recently that we have realized how excellent an all-round sporting dog the Retriever has Gun Dogs 169 become. In many cases, indeed, where grouse and partridge are driven or walked-up a well-broken, soft-mouthed Retriever is unquestionably superior to Pointer, Setter, or Spaniel, and for general work in the field he is the best companion that a shooting man can possess. It would be idle to expect that the offspring of unbroken sire and dam can be as easily educated as a Retriever whose parents before him have been properly trained. Inherited qualities count for a great deal in the adaptability of all sporting dogs, and the reason why one meets with so many Retrievers that are incapable or disobedient or gun-shy is simply that their preliminary education has been neglected — the education which should begin when the dog is very young. In his earliest youth he should be trained to prompt obedience to a given word or a wave of the hand. It is well to teach him very earl}^ to enter water, or he may be found wanting when you require him to fetch a bird from river or lake. Lessons in retrieving ought to be a part of his daily routine. Equally necessary is it to break him in to the know- ledge that sheep are not game to be chased, and that rabbits and hares are to be discriminated from feathered game. Gun-shj-ness is often supposed to be hereditary ; but it is not so. Any puppy can be cured of gun-shyness in half a dozen short lessons. Sir Henry Smith's advice is to get your puppy accustomed to the sound and sight of a gun being fired, first at a distance and gradually nearer and nearer, until he knows that no harm will come to him. Companionship and sympathy between dog and master is the beginning and end of the whole business. Both as a worker and as a show dog the flat-coated Retriever has reached something very near to the ideal standard of perfection which has been consistently bred up to. Careful selection and systematic breeding, backed up by enthusiasm, have resulted in the production of a dog combining useful working qualities with the highest degree of beauty. A very prominent admirer and breeder was the late Mr. S. E. Shirley, the President of the Kennel Club, who owned many Retrievers superlative both as workers and as show dogs, and who probably did more for the breed than any other man of his generation. Mi. Shirley's work was carried 170 The Complete Book of the Dog on by Mr. Harding Cox, who devoted much time and energy to the production of good Retrievers, many of which were of Mr, Shirley s strain. Mr. Cox's dogs deservedly achieved con- siderable fame for their levelness of type, and the improve- ment in heads so noticeable at the present time is to be ascribed to his breeding for this point. Mr. L. Allen Shuter, the owner of Ch. Darenth and other excellent Retrievers of his own breeding, claims also a large share of credit for the part he has played in the general improvement of the breed. Mr. C. A. Phillips, too, owned admirable specimens, and the name of the late Lieut. -Colonel Cornwall Legh must be in- cluded. Many of Colonel Legh's bitches were of Shirley blood, but it is believed that a breed of Retrievers had existed at High Legh for several generations, with which a judicious cross was made, the result being not only the formation of a remarkable kennel, but also a decided influence for good upon the breed in general. But since the Shirley days, when competition was more limited than it is at present, no kennel of Retrievers has ever attained anything like the distinction of that owned by Mr. H. Reginald Cooke, at Riverside, Nantwich. By acquiring the best specimens of the breed from all available sources, Mr. Cooke has gathered together a stock which has never been equalled. His ideas of type and conformation are the outcome of close and attentive study and consistent practice, and one needs to go to Riverside if one desires to see the highest examples of what a modern flat-coated Retriever can be. Since Dr. Bond Moore imparted to the Retriever a fixity of character, the coats have become longer and less wavy, and in conformation of skull, colour of eye, straightness of legs, and quality of bone, there has been a perceptible improvement. As there is no club devoted to the breed, and consequently no official standard of points, the following description of the perfect Retriever is offered : General Appearance : That of a well-proportioned, bright and active sporting dog, showing power without lumber and raciuess without weedi- ness. Head : I/ong, fine, without being weak, the muzzle square, the under- jaw strong with an absence of lippiness or throatiness. Eyes : Dark as possible, with a very intelligent, mild expression. Necfi : I/ang and clean. Gun Dogs 171 Ears : Small, well set on, and carried close to tlie head. Shoulders : Oblique, running well into the back, with plenty of depth of chest. Body : Short and square, and well ribbed up. Stern : Short and straight, and carried gaily, but not curled over the back. Forelegs : Straight, pasterns strong, feet small and round. Quarters: Strong; stifles well bent. Coat: Dense black or liver, of tine quality and texture. Flat, not wavy. Weight : From 65 lb. to 80 lb. for dogs ; bitches rather less. As a rule, the Retriever should be chosen for the intelligent look of his face, and particular attention should be paid to the shape of his head and to his eyes. His frame is important, of course, but in the Retriever the mental qualities are of more significance than bodily points. A perfect head should be long and clean, but neither weak nor snipy. The eye should be placed just halfway between the occiput and the tip of the nose. It is pleasing to add that to this beautiful breed the phrase " handsome is as handsome does " applies in full measure. Not only is the average Retriever of a companionable dis- position, with delightful intelligence that is always responsive, but he is a good and faithful guard and a courageous pro- tector of person and property. It has already been said that the majority of the best-looking Retrievers are also good working dogs, and it may here be added that many of the most successful working dogs are sired by prizewinners in the show ring. The Curly-coated Retriever. — Very few sporting dogs have declined so much in public favour as the black curly-coated Retriever. He is now quite out of fashion even as a com- panion and house-dog. There is a prejudice against him on account of his alleged ill-temper, while for the work of re- trieving game it is objected that he has a hard mouth and is stubborn. It has always been accepted that he is inferior in nose to the flat-coated variety and not so easy to break. Many keepers and handlers have discovered in indi\idual specimens certain merit in the field, but the curly-coat has never approached the skill displayed by the Labrador, which has gradually been shouldering him into the background. The coat of the curly Retriever is his chief personal pecu- liarity. Its desired consistency is that of a close-fitting nigger curl of which each knot is solid and inseparable. A coat of this quality is not capable of improvement by any method 172 The Complete Book of the Dog of grooming, for the simple reason that its natural condition is in itself perfect. The little locks should be so close together as to be impervious to water, and all parts of the body should be evenly covered with them, including the tail and legs. A bad class of coat, and one which readily yields to the faker's art, is the thin open curl, which by careful manipulation can be greatly improved. Another bad quality of coat is one in which, upon the withers and over the loins in particular, the curls do not tighten up naturally, but are large, loose, and soft to the feel. Regarding the dog as a whole, the following may be taken as an all-round description : General Appearance : That of a smart, active, clean-cut and alert dog, full of go and fire. Head : Long and not weedy in the muzzle, nor thick and coarse in the skull, but tapering down and finishing with a stout broad muzzle. Skull : Should be flat and moderately broad between the ears, which are rather small, and well covered with hair. Ears : Should lie close to the side of the head, but not dead in their carriage. Face : The face should be smooth, and any indication of a forelock should be penalized. Eye : The eye should in all cases be dark and not too deeply set. Neck : Well placed in the shovUders and nicely arched, of moderate length and yet powerful and free from throatiness. Shoulders : Well laid back and as free from massiveness as possible, though there is a decided tendency in this variety to such a fault. Legs : Straight and well covered with coat. The bone should show quality and yet be fairly abundant. Feet : Compact and hound-like. Body : Should show great power, with deep, well-rounded ribs. As little cut-up in the flank as possible. Tail : Strong at the base, set on in a line with the back and tapering to a point, the size of the curls upon it diminishing gradually to the end. Hind-quarters : Should show great development of muscle, with bent hocks, the lower leg being strong and the hind feet compact. Any suspicion of cow hocks should be heavily penalized. Colour : Mostly a dull black. Some liver-coloured dogs are seen with very good coats and bodies, but their heads are generally thick and coarse, and the colour of their eyes does not always match, as it should do, with the colour of the coat. The Golden Retriever. — This is a variety which is becom- ing increasingly popular. Introduced forty or fifty years ago as the Yellow Russian Retriever, they are neither yellow nor Russian. They are really Labradors, and they have all the intelligence of the Labrador. Their colour is a pale golden tan. Black has always been the recognized colour of the Labrador, but the early Retrievers were by no means fixed in colour. In 1876 Dr. Bond Moore's black bitch Midnight whelped a litter of pale golden puppies, and somewhat later Captain Radcliffe owned several Golden Labradors at Ware- ham. It is stated by some writers that the black Labrador was designedly crossed with the Bloodhound, and by others Gun Dogs 173 that the Irish Setter has been used as an outcross. But if this was in order to get the golden colouring it was surely a roundabout method, considering that yellow Retrievers already existed on the Borders. In any case, the Golden Retriever is now a dog of fixed type. He is somewhat heavier than the ordinary flat-coated Retriever, but not very different in shape and quite as hand- some, and he has proved himself a capable worker in the retrieving of game. At recent field trials Mr. J. Compton's Balbeardie and Mr, T. W. Twyford's Tatler and Titus dis- tinguished themselves in close competition, and an increasing number of the variety are to be seen at important dog shows. Mr. Hermon's Balcombe Boy and Mr. Braybrook's Ballingdon Floss are notable prizewinners, and Mrs. W. M. Charlesworth's Golden Retrievers bearing her Noranby prefix are always especially good representatives of the variety. The description of the flat-coated variety applies to the Golden Retriever, with the exception that the latter has rather larger ears and is, of course, lighter in eye. The Labrador. — Among sporting dogs the true Labradors are unique. In the evolution of the flat-coated Retrievers they played a most important part, yet they themselves remain to-day very much as they were when their less legiti- mate offspring by the Setter were neither defined nor definable. It was not till the year 1903 that the original Labrador was recognized by the Kennel Club and drawn from his obscurity. He was not then supposed to be an especially good gun dog. A few short generations ago the big Newfoundland dog was more appreciated for the purpose of fetching and carrying game, and the Labrador was believed to be a smaller and less capable member of the same family. Newfoundlands and Labradors were convertible terms. Both breeds were im- ported together from North America in ships trading between St. John's and the British seaports. Many Labradors were landed at Poole, in Dorsetshire, and others at Shields on the Tyne. They were well known as sporting dogs in Northumber- land in the 'fifties of last century, and they have not been altered by any influence other than careful breeding and training. I am not aware of any dog of consequence to the breed 174 The Complete Book of the Dog having been imported in recent years. Without the assist- ance of shows or imported blood, however, they have sur- vived marvellously, thanks especially to the kennels of such breeders as the Dukes of Buccleuch and Hamilton, the Earl of Verulam, Lords Wimbome, Home, Malmesbury and Somerleyton, the Hon. A. Holland Hibbert, Mr. F. P. Barnett, Mr. C. Liddell, Mr. O. L. Mansel, and others equally enthusiastic. To the Duke of Buccleuch's kennel we are probably more indebted in the last thirty-five years than to any other. Its foundation was laid in two bitches by a dog of the Duke of Hamilton's from a bitch of Lord Malmesbury's. At Drum- lanrig, as well as on the duke's other estates, they have been most particular in preserving the purity and working qualities of their strain. And the same may be said of the Hon. Holland Hibbert, whose principal dogs are not only typical in appearance, but broken to perfection. To the ordinary observer the Labrador is not strikingly different in appearance from the flat-coated Retriever. He is about the same size and is the same colour. But his coat is less silky in texture as well as shorter in staple, with no feather or wave ; he is more clean cut. The ears are larger and rounder — more like those of the Pointer, and set rather far back and flat to the head, and the muzzle is squarer and rather more lippy. The stem is fairly full coated, well set on and straight, like an otter's tail. The eyes should by pre- ference be dark, the colour of burnt sugar, and just as sweet. Seen in his perfection, he is a most beautiful dog. It is through their merit as field dogs, however, that Labradors have been so carefully and persistently maintained. While as far as possible using only dogs typical in appearance, breeders have considered work as a sine qua non in the selection of a sire. Some years ago Mr. F. P. Barnett's Stag surprised shooting parties by his wonderful finds where all other dogs had failed. The Hon. A. Holland Hibbert was, I think, the first to run pure Labradors at the field trials with success, his Munden Sentry, M. Single, and M. Sandfly all having done well. But the most conspicuous performer was Mr. J. M. Portal's Flapper, a worthy son of Stag, who in a stake of twenty competitors Gun Dogs 175 at the Kennel Club trials of 1907 got second, and shortly after- wards second in a stake of seventeen at the International. The success of these dogs drew especial attention to the Labrador and induced other owners to patronize them. Since those days the breed has progressed apace and left all other Retrievers far behind. At the present time the Labrador is the most popular of all dogs used for the retrieving of game. Many have gained cele- brity as workers and become conspicuous alike at field trials and as exhibits at the prominent dog shows. The late Mr. T. W. Twyford's Ch. Tatler of Whitmore, his Teazle and Trefoil, have been especially commended. But Mrs. Quintin Dick is the foremost authority on the Labrador. No one is a better judge of the dog's working qualities or of his personal points. Her own dogs are superlative, and her " Banchory " prefix is familiar to all who keep within touch of the affairs of the dog world. Among Mrs. Quintin Dick's champions and their kennel mates are Banchory Lucky, Banchory Rando, Widgeon, Dina, Sunspeck, and Dipper. No breed of sporting dog owes more to an individual enthusiast than the Labrador owes to Mrs. Quintin Dick. Among other eminent sportsmen. His Majesty the King has been attracted by the fine working qualities of the Labrador. His Wolferton Dan and Wolferton Ben have both won prizes at leading shows. CHAPTER XII The Sporting Spaniel Irish and other Water Spaniels — Clumbers — Sussex AND Field Spaniels — Springers and Cockers The Spaniel Family. — The Spaniel family is one of the most important of the many groups into which sporting dogs are divided, not only on account of its antiquity as a breed, but also because of its many branches and subdivisions, ranging in size from the massive Clumber to the alert little Cocker. It is clear that they owe their origin to the same parent stock from which we got our different varieties of the Setter, since we find them described by the earlier sporting writers as " setting " or " crouching " Spaniels, in contradistinction to the " finding " or " springing " Spaniel, who flushed the game he found without setting or pointing it. As time went on, the setting variety was, no doubt, bred larger and longer in the leg, with a view to increased pace ; but the Spaniel-like head and coat still remain to prove the near connexion between the two breeds. All the different varieties of sporting Spaniels have, with the exception of the Clumber and the Irish Water Spaniel (who is not, despite his name, a true Spaniel at all), a common origin, though at a very early date we find them divided into two groups — viz. Land and Water Spaniels, and these two were kept distinct, and bred to c'.evelop those points which were most essential for their different spheres of work. Nearly all writers, both French and English, are agreed that the breed came originally from Spain, and we may assume that such early authorities as Gaston Phabus, Edward Plantagenet, and Dr. Caius had good reasons for stating that these dogs were called Spaniels because of the country of their origin. The following distinct breeds or varieties are recognized by the Kennel Club : (i) Irish Water Spaniels ; (2) Water 176 The Sporting Spaniel 177 Spaniels other than Irish ; (3) Clumber Spaniels ; (4) Sussex Spaniels ; (5) Field Spaniels ; (6) English Springers ; (7) Welsh Springers ; (8) Cocker Spaniels. Each of these varieties differs considerably from the others, and each has its own special advocates and admirers, as well as its own particular sphere of work for which it is best fitted, though almost any Spaniel can be made into a general utility dog, which is, perhaps, one of the main reasons for the popularity of the breed. The Irish Water Spaniel. — The history of the Irish Water Spaniel is in many ways extraordinary. As already stated, it is not technically a Spaniel at all. One can hardly hesitate to ascribe to it a close relationship with the French Poodle, which is a notably good water-dog by nature and obviously similar in general appearance and character. Mr. Justin McCarthy claimed that the breed originated entirely in his kennels, and this claim has never been seriously disputed by subsequent owners and breeders. It seems improbable that Mr. McCarthy can actually have originated or manufactured a breed possessing so many extremely marked differences and divergences of type as the Irish Water Spaniel ; but what he probably did was to rescue an old and moribund breed from impending extinction, and so improve it by judicious breeding and cross-breeding as to give it a new lease of life, and per- manently fix its salient points and characteristics. How- ever that may be, little seems to have been known of the breed before he took it in hand, and it is very certain that nearly every Irish Water Spaniel seen for the last half century owes its descent to his old dog Boatswain, who was born in 1834 and lived for eighteen years. There is no member of the whole canine family which has a more distinctive personal appearance than the Irish Water Spaniel. With him it is a case of once seen never forgotten, and no one who has ever seen one could possibly mistake him for anything else than what he is. He is attractive in a quaint way peculiarly his own, and intelligent-looking. In this particular his looks do not bewray him ; he is, in fact, one of the most intelligent of all the dogs used in aid of the gun, and in his own sphere one of the most useful. That sphere is indicated by his name, and it is in a country of bogs M 178 The Complete Book of the Dog and marshes, like the south and west of Ireland, of which he was originally a native, where snipe and wildfowl provide the staple sport of the gunner, that he is in his element and seen at his best, though, no doubt, he can do excellent work as an ordinary retriever, and is often used as such. But Nature (or Mr. McCarthy's art) has specially formed and endowed him for the amphibious sport indicated above, and has provided him with an excellent nose, an almost water- proof coat, the sporting instincts of a true son of Erin, and, above all, a disposition full of good sense ; he is high-couraged, and at the same time adaptable to the highest degree of per- fection in training. His detractors often accuse him of being hard-mouthed, but this charge is not well founded. Besides his virtues in the field, the Irish Water Spaniel has the reputa- tion— a very well-founded one — of being the best of pals. During recent years the breed has suffered a relapse in popularity in England, and classes at shows have not been nearly so strong, either in numbers or quality, as they used to be. But there are signs of a renewed interest, and excellent representatives of the variety have recently been exhibited in Chs. Deimod and Oueenstown Peggy, and such of their offspring as Gorey Boy, Judy Wog, and Dan O' Flanagan. A very characteristic Irish Water Spaniel is Miss D. Anderson's Snippet, whose portrait will be found on the plate facing p. 182. Most people are well acquainted with the personal appear- ance of this quaint-looking dog. The points regarded as essential in the Irish Water Spaniel are as follows : Colour : The colour should always be a rich dark liver or puce without any white at all. Any white except the slightest of " vshirt fronts " should disqualify. The nose of course should conform to the coat in colour, and be dark brown. Head : The head should have a capacious skull, fairly but not excessively domed, with plenty of brain room. It should be sur- mounted with a regular topknot of curly hair, a most important and dis- tinctive pomt. This topknot should never be scjuare cut or like a poodle's wig, but should grow down to a well defined point between the eyes. Eyes : The eyes should be small, dark, and set obliquely, like a Chinaman's. Ears : The ears should be long, strong in leather, low set, heavily ringleted, and from 8 to 10 inches long, according to size. Muzzle and Jaw : The muzzle and jaw should be long and strong. There should be a decided " stop," but not so pronounced as to make the brows or forehead prominent. Neck :' The neck should be fairly long and very muscular. Shoulders : The shoulders should be sloping. Most Irish Water Spaniels have bad, straight shoulders, a defect which should be bred out. Chest : The chest is deep, and usually ratlier narrow, but should not be so narrow as to constrict the heart aud lungs. Back and Loins ■ The back and loins strong and arched. The Sporting Spaniel 179 Forelegs : The forelegs straight and well boned. Heavily feathered or ringleted all over. Hind-legs : The hind-legs with hocks set very low, stifles rather straight, feathered all over, except inside from the hocks down, which part should be covered with short hair (a most distinctive point). Feet: The feet large and rather spreading as is proper for a water-dog, well clothed with hair. Stern : The stern covered with the shortest of hair, except for the first couple of inches next the buttocks, whiplike or stinglike (a most important point), and carried low, not like a hound's. Coat : The coat com- posed entirely of short crisp curls, not woolly like a Poodle's, and very dense. If left to itself, this coat mats or cords, but this is not permissible in show dogs. The hair on the muzzle and forehead below the topknot is quite short and smooth, as well as that on the stem. General Appearance : Is not remarkable for symmetry, but is quaint and intelligent looking. Height : The height should be between 21 and 23 inches. The English Water Spaniel. — In the Kennel Club's Register of Breeds no place is allotted to this variety ; all Water Spaniels other than Irish being classed together. Despite this absence of official recognition, a breed of Spaniels legitimately entitled to the designation of English Water Spaniels has been in existence for many years, in all proba- bility a descendant of the old " Water-Dogge," an animal closely resembling the French Barbet, the ancestor of the modem Poodle. They were even trimmed at times much in the same way as a Poodle is nowadays, as Markham gives precise directions for " The cutting or shearing him from the nauill downeward or backeward." The opinion expressed by the writer of The Sportsman' s Cabinet, 1803, is that the breed originated from a cross between the large Water-dog and the Springing Spaniel, and this is probably correct, though Youatt, a notable authority, thinks that the cross was with an English Setter. Possibly some strains may have been estabUshed in this way, not differing very much in make and shape from those obtained from the cross with the Spaniel. In general appearance the dog resembles somewhat closely the Springer, except that he may be higher on the leg, and that his coat should consist of crisp, tight curls, almost like Astrakhan fur, everywhere except on his face, where it should be short. There should be no topknot like that of the Irish Water Spaniel. The Clumber Spaniel is in high favour in the Spaniel world, alike with shooting men and exliibitors, and the breed well deserves the position which it occupies in the public esteem. No other variety is better equipped mentally and physically for the work it is called upon to do in aid of the i8o The Complete Book of the Dog gun ; and lew dogs, certainly none of the Spaniels, surpass or even equal it in appearance. As a sporting dog, the Clumber is possessed of the very best of noses, a natural inclination both to hunt his game and to retrieve it when killed, great keenness and perseverance, wonderful endurance and activity considering his massive build, and as a rule is very easy to train, being highly in- telligent and most docile and " bid-able." The man who owns a good dog of this breed, whether he uses it as a re- triever for driven birds, works it in a team, or uses it as his sole companion when he goes gunning, possesses a treasure. As a show dog his massive frame, powerful limbs, pure white coat, with its pale lemon markings and frecklings, and, above all, his solemn and majestic aspect, mark him out as a true aristocrat, with all the beauty of refinement which comes from a long line of cultured ancestors. All research so far has failed to carry the history of the variety back any further than the last quarter of the eighteenth century. About that time the Due de Noailles presented some Spaniels, probably his whole kennel, which he brought from France, to the second Duke of Newcastle, from whose place. Clumber Park, the breed has taken its name. Beyond this it seems impossible to go : indeed, the Clumber seems to be generally looked upon as a purely English breed. From Clumber Park specimens found their way to most of the other great houses in the neighbourhood, notably to Al thorp Park, Welbeck Abbey, Birdsall House, Thoresby Hall, and Osberton Hall. It is from the kennels at the last-named place, owned by Mr. Foljambe, that most of the progenitors of the Clumbers which have earned notoriety derived their origin. Nearly all the most famous specimens of early days were descended from Mr. Foljambe's dogs. There has been a great deal of lamentation lately among old breeders and exhibitors about the decadence of the breed and the loss of the true old type possessed by these dogs. But despite all they can say to the contrary, the Clumber is now in a more flourishing state than it ever has been ; and although we have not now, nor have had for the last twenty years, a John o' Gaunt or a Tower, there have been a large number of dogs shown during that time who possessed con- The Sportinj]: Spaniel i8i sidcrable merit and would probably have held their own even in the days of these bygone heroes. Some of the most notable have been Baillie Friar, Beechgrove Donally, Goring of Auchentorlie, Hempsted Toby, and Preston Shot, and, more recently, Hempsted Lucy Girl and Hempsted Shotover, who all earned the coveted title of Champion. The Field Trials have, no doubt, had a great deal to do with the largely augmented popularity of the variety and the great increase in the number of those who own Clumbers. For the first two or three years after these were tnily estab- lished no other breed seemed to have a chance with them ; and even now, though both English and Welsh Springers have done remarkably well, the}' more than hold their own. The most distinguished performer by far was Mr. Winton Smith's Beechgrove Bee, a bitch whose work was practically faultless, and the first Field Trial Champion among Spaniels. Other good Clumbers who earned distinction in the field were Beechgrove Minette, Beechgrove Maud, the Duke of Port- land's Welbeck Sambo, and Mr. Phillip's Rivington Honey, Pearl, and Reel. The points and general description of the breed as published by both the Spaniel Club and the Clumber Spaniel Club are identical. They are as follows : Head : Large, square and massive, of medium length, broad on top, with a decided occiput ; heavy brows with a deep stop ; heavy freckled muzzle, with well-developed flew. Eyes : Dark amber ; slightly sunk. A light or prominent eye objectionable. Ears : Large, vine-leaf shaped, and well covered with straight hair and hanging slightly forward, the feather not to extend below the leather. Keck : Very thick and powerful, and well feathered underneath. Body (iucludivg size and symmetry) : Long and heavy, and near the ground. Weight of dogs about 55 lb. to 65 lb. ; bitches about 45 lb. to 55 lb. Nose : Square and flesh coloured. Shoulders and Chest : Wide and deep ; shoulders strong and muscular. Back and Loin : Back straight, broad and long ; loin powerful, well let down in flank. Hind- quarters : Very powerful and well developed. Stern : Set low, well feathered, and carried about level with the back. Feet and Legs : Feet large and roimd, well covered with hair ; legs short, thick and strong ; hocks low. Coat : Long, abundant, soft and straight. Colour : Plain white with lemon mark- ings ; orange permissible but not desirable ; slight head markings with white body preferred. General Appearance : Shoiild be that of a long, low, heavy, very massive dog, with a thoughtful expression. The Sussex Spaniel. — This is one of the oldest of the land Spaniels, and probably also the purest in point of descent, since it has for many years past been confined to a compara- tively small number of kennels, the owners of which have i82 The Complete Book of the Dog always been at considerable pains to keep their strains free from any admixture of foreign blood. The modern race of Sussex Spaniels owes its origin in the main to the kennel kept by IMr. Fuller at Rosehill Park, near Hastings. This gentleman, who died in 1847, is said to have kept his strain for fifty years or more, and to have shot over them almost daily during the season, but at his death they were dispersed by auction, and none of them can be traced with any accuracy except a dog and a bitch which were given at the time to Relf, the head-keeper. Rclf survived his master for forty years, and kept up his interest in the breed to the last. He used to say that the golden tinge peculiar to the Rosehill breed came from a bitch which had been mated with a dog belonging to Dr. Watts, of Battle, and that every now and then what he termed a " sandy " pup would turn up in her litters. Owing to an outbreak of dumb madness in the Rosehill kennels, a very large number of its occupants either died or had to be destroyed, and this no doubt accounted for the extreme scarcity of the breed when several enthusiasts began to revive it about the year 1870. Mr. Saxby and Mr. Marchant are said to have had the same strain as that at Rosehill, and certainly one of the most famous sires to be found in Sussex pedigrees was Buckingham, by Marchant 's Rover out of Saxby 's Fan. About 1879 Mr. T. Jacobs, of Newton Abbot, took up this breed with great success, and when his kennel was broken up in i8gi, the best of the Sussex Spaniels were acquired by Mr. Woolland, and from that date this gentleman's kennel carried all before it until it, in turn, was broken up and dis- persed in 19Q5. So successful was Mr. Woolland that one may almost say that he beat all other competitors off the field, though one of them, Mr. Campbell Newington, stuck most gallantly to him all through. Mr. Newington's kennel always maintained a very high standard of excellence, and many famous specimens have come from it. Colonel Claude Cane's Jonathan Swift, Celbridge Eldorado, and Celbridge Chrysolite were notable examples of this variety. At the present time Mr. J. Kerr, of Harviestoun Castle, is perhaps the most successful adherent of the Sussex Spaniel. His Harviestoun Dirk and Har\'iestoun Dolly are a typical brace. Miss D. Anderson's Irish Water Spaniel Snippet. Fhoto^yapk l-y Tom RiicUy. Mrs. K. Fviciie's Coloured Cocker Fulmer Bell. :r^ English Springer Gh. Horsford Hetman. Hlue Roan Field Spaniel Ch. Trumpington Roger. Welsh Springer Ch. Longmynd Myfanwy, Mrs. Fytche's Black Cocker Fulmer Kaffir. Clunilier Spaniel Ch. Colwyn Clown. The Sporting Spaniel 183 The breed has always had a good character for work, and most of the older writers who mention them speak of Sussex Spaniels in very eulogistic terms. They are rather slow workers, but thoroughly conscientious and painstaking, and are not afraid of any amount of thick covert, through which they will force their way, and seldom leave anything behind them. A well-bred Sussex Spaniel is a very handsome dog. Indeed, his beautiful colour alone is enough to make his appearance an attractive one, even if he were unsymmetrical and ungainly in his proportions. This colour, known as golden liver, is peculiar to the breed, and is the great touchstone and hall- mark of purity of blood. No other dog has exactly the same shade of coat, which the word " liver " hardly describes exactly, as it is totally different from the ordinary liver colour of an Irishman, a Pointer, or even a liver Field Spaniel. It is rather a golden chestnut with a regular metallic sheen as of burnished metal, showing more especially on the head and face and everywhere where the hair is short. This is very apparent when a dog gets his new coat. In time, of course, it is liable to get somewhat bleached by sun and weather, when it turns almost yellow. Every expert knows this colour well, and looks for it at once when judging a class of Sussex, The description of the breed given by the Spaniel Club is as follows : Head : The skull should be moderately long, and also wide, with an indentation in the middle, and a fuU stop, brows fairly heavy ; occiput full, but not pointed, the whole giving an appearance of heaviness without dullness. Eyes : Hazel colour, fairly large, soft and languishing, not showing the haw overmuch. Nose : The muzzle should be about 3 inches long, square, and the lips somewhat pendulous. The nostrils well developed and liver colour. Ears : Thick, fairly large, and lobe shaped ; set moderately low, but relatively not so low as in the Black Field Spaniel ; carried dose to the head, and furnished with soft wavy hair. Neck : Is rather short, strong, and slightly arched, but not carrying the head mucli above the level of the back. There should not be much throatiness in the skin, but well marked frill in the coat. Chest and Shoulders : The chest is round, especially behind the shoulders, deep and wide, giving a good girth. The shoulders should be obUque. Back and Back Ribs : The back and loin are long, and should be very muscular, both in width and depth ; for this development the back ribs must be deep. The whole body is characterized as low, long, level, and strong. Legs and Feet : The arms and thighs must be bony, as well as muscular, knees and hocks large and strong, pasterns ver>' short and bony, feet large and round, and with short hair between the toes. The legs should be very short and strong, with great bone, and may show a slight bend in the forearm, and be moderately well feathered. The hind-legs should not be apparently shorter than the forelegs, or be too much bent i84 The Complete Book of the Dog at the hocks, so as to give a Setteiy appearance which is so objectionable. The hind-legs should be well feathered above the hocks, but should not have much hair below that point. The hocks should be short and wide apart. Tail : Should be docked from 5 to 7 inches, set low, and not carried above the level of the back, tliickly clothed with moderately long feather. Coat : Body coat abundant, flat or slightly waved, with no tendency to curl, moderately well feathered on legs and stern, but clean below the hocks. Colour : Rich golden liver ; this is a certain sign of the purity of the breed, dark liver or puce denoting immistakably a recent cross with the black or other variety of Field Spaniel. General Appearance : Rather massive and muscular, but with free movements and nice tail action denoting a tract- able and cheerful disposition. Weight from 35 lb. to 45 lb. The Field Spaniel. — The modern Field Spaniel may be divided into two classes. Indeed, we may almost say at this stage of canine history, two breeds, as for several years past there has not been very much intermingling of blood between the Blacks and those known by the awkward designation of " Any Other Variety," though, of course, all came originally from the same parent stock. The black members of the family have always been given the pride of place, and accounted of most importance, though latterly their parti-coloured brethren seem to have rather overtaken them. The first strain of blacks of which we know much belonged to Mr. F. Burdett, and was obtained from a Mr. Footman, of Lutterworth, Leicestershire, who was supposed to have owned them for some time. Mr. Burdett's Bob and Frank may be found at the head of very many of the best pedigrees. At his death most of his Spaniels became the property of Mr. Jones, of Oscott, and Mr. Phineas Bullock, of Bilston, the latter of whom was most extraordinarily successful, and owned a kennel of Field Spaniels which was practically unbeatable between the dates of the first Birmingham Show in 1861 and the publication of the first volume of the Kennel Club's Stud Book in 1874, many, if not most, of the dogs which won for other owners having been bred by him. His Nellie and Bob, who won the chief prizes year after year at all the leading shows, were probably the two best specimens of their day. Another most successful breeder was Mr. W. W. Boulton, of Beverley, whose kennel produced many celebrated dogs, in- cluding Beverlac, said to be the largest Field Spaniel ever exhibited, and Rolf, whose union with Belle produced four bitches who were destined, when mated with Nigger, a dog of Mr. Bullock's breeding, to form the foundation of the The Sporting Spaniel 1.S5 equally if not more famous kcmicl belonging to Mr. T. Jacobs, of Newton Abbot. It was Mr. Jacobs who, by judiciously mating his Sussex sires Bachelor, Bachelor III, and others with these black- bred bitches, established the strain which in his hands and in those of his successors. Captain S. M. Thomas and Mr. Moses Woolland, carried all before it for many years, and is still easily at the top of the tree, being the most sought for and highly prized of all on account of its " quality." The systematic attempt to breed Spaniels of various col- ours, with a groundwork of white, does not date back much more than a quarter of a century, and the greater part of the credit for producing this variety may be given to three gentle- men, Mr. F. E. Schofield, Dr. J. H. Spurgin, and Mr. J. W. Robinson. In the early days of breeding blacks, when the bitches were mated either with Sussex or liver and white Springers or Norfolk vSpaniels, many parti-coloured puppies necessarily occurred, which most breeders destroyed ; but it occurred to some of these gentlemen that a handsome and distinct variety might be obtained by careful selection, and they certainly succeeded to a very great extent. The most famous names among the early sires are Dr. Spurgin's Alonzo and his son Fop, and Mr. Robinson's Alva Dash, from one or other of whom nearly all the modern celebrities derive their descent. No doubt there is a very great fascination in breeding for colour, and in doing so there is no royal road to success, which can only be attained by the exercise of the greatest skill and the nicest discrimination in the selection of breeding stock. At the same time colour is not everything, and tj'pe and working qualities should never be sacrificed to it. The points of both black and coloured Field Spaniels are identical, bar colour, and here it must be said that black and tan, liver and tan, and liver are not considered true variety colours, though of course they have to compete in those classes, but rather sports from black. The colours aimed at by variety breeders have all a ground colour of white, and are black and white, blue roan, liver and white, red roan, liver, white and tan, and tricolours or quadri-colours — i.e. blue or red roan and tan, or both combined, with tan. The vSpaniel i86 The Complete Book of the Dog Club furnishes the following description of the Black Field Spaniel : Head : Should be quite characteristic of this grand sporting dog, as that of the Bloodhound or the Btilldog ; its very stamp and countenance should at once convey the conviction of high breeding, character and nobility ; skull well developed, with a distinctly elevated occipital tuberosity, which, above all, gives the character alluded to ; not too wide across muzzle, long and lean, never snipy nor squarely cut, and in profile curving gradiially from nose to throat ; lean beneath eyes, a thickness here gives coarseness to the whole head. The great length of muzzle gives surface for the free develop- ment of the olfactory nerve, and thus secures the highest possible scenting powers. Eyes : Not too full, but not small, receding or overhung ; colour dark hazel or dark brown, or nearly black ; grave in expression, and be- speaking unusual docility and instinct. Ears : Set low down as possible, which greatly adds to the refinement and beauty of the head, moderately long and wide, and sufficiently clad with nice Setter-like feather. Neck : Very strong and muscular, so as to enable the dog to retrieve his game with- out undue fatigue ; not too short, however. Body {including size and sym- metry) : Long and very low, well ribbed up to a good strong loin, straight or sUghtly arched, never slack ; weight from about 35 lb. to 45 lb. Nose : Well developed, with good open nostrils, and always black. Shoulders and Chest : Former sloping and free, latter deep and well developed, but not too round and wide. Back and Loin : Very strong and muscular ; level and long in proportion to the height of the dog. Hind-quarters : Very powerful and muscular, wide, and fully developed. Stern : Well set on, and carried low, if possible below the level of the back, in a perfectly straight line, or with a slight downward inclination, never elevated above the back, and in action always kept low, nicely fringed, with wavy feather of vSilky texture. Feet and Legs : Feet not too small, and well protected between the toes with soft feather ; good strong pads. Legs straight and immensely boned, strong and short, and nicely feathered with straight or waved Setter-like feather; overmuch feathering below the hocks objectionable. Coat: Flat or slightly waved, and never curled. SuflTiciently dense to resist the weather, and not too short. Silky in texture, glos.sy, and refined in nature, with neither duflfelness on the one hand nor curl or wiriness on the other. On chest, tmder belly, and behind the legs, there should be abundant feather, but never too much, and that of the right sort, viz. Setter-like. The tail and hind-quarters should be similarly adorned. Colour: Jet black through- out, glossy and true. A little white on chest, though a drawback, not a disqualification. General Appearance : That of a sporting dog, capable of learning and doing anythmg possible for his inches and conformation. A grand combination of beauty and utility. The English Springer. — It is only recently that the Kennel Club has officially recognized the variety known as the English Springer. For a long time the old-fashioned liver and white, or black Spaniels, longer in the leg than either Sussex or Field Spaniels, had been known as Norfolk Spaniels, probably from association with one of the Dukes of Norfolk. But when this old breed was taken up by the Sporting Spaniel Society, they decided to drop the name of " Norfolk," and to revert to the old title of " Springer," not, perhaps, a very happy choice, as all Spaniels are, properly speaking, Springers in The Sporting Spaniel 187 contradistinction to Setters. There is no doubt that this variety of Spaniel retains a resemblance to the old strains which belonged to onr forefathers, before the long and low idea found favour in the eyes of exhibitors, and it was cer- tainly well worth preserving. The only way nowadays by which uniformity of type can be obtained is by somebody having authority drawing up a standard and scale of points for breeders to go by, and the English Springer Spaniel Club, founded in February, 1921, is to be commended for having done this for the breed under notice. Even before it gained official recognition the English Springer had been taken up by men whose names are familiarly known — Mr. W. Arkwright, Major Harry Jones, Sir Hugo FitzHerbert, Mr. C. C. Bethune Eversfield, and Mr. Winton Smith — and their work is being carried on by Mr. Charles Knill, the Rev. J. T. Phillips, Mr. William Humphrey, and Miss D. Morland-Hooper. They are undoubtedly the right dogs for those who want Spaniels to travel faster and cover more ground than the more ponderous and short-legged Clumbers, Sussex, or Field Spaniels do, but their work is hardly equal in finish and precision to that of either of the two former breeds. Points of the English Springer. — The Skull shoxild be of medium length and fairly broad ; slightly rounded — what may be termed an apple fore- head, with deep stop aud well chiselled eye sockets. The Jaw should be of good length ; straight, square, and deep muzzled, and not in any way " snipy." Good deep lips, and nostrils well developed. The Eyes should be hazel or dark and of nice size, aud should rather be well set in than in any way prominent. The Ears should be long and set in a hne with the eye, hanging fairly close to the cheek and well feathered. The Neck should be strong and muscular, of a nice length and free from throatiness. The shoulders long, sloping and well set back — this giving great activity and speed. The Forelegs should be of good length with straight clean flat bone, well feathered. The feet round with thick pads. The Body should be strong — with a short strong back and well sprung ribs. A deep chest with plenty of heart room. The Loins should be muscular and of great strength, and, if anything, slightly arched, well coupled up and knitted together. The Hind-quarters should be strong as with the hind-legs, and the stifles moderately bent and not twisted either in or out. The Stern should be low and never carried above the level of the back ; well feathered and with a lively motion. The Coat should be flat or straiglxt and thick, but an open wavy coat is not objectionable. Colour : Anything except red and white. Height : Not more than 21 inches. Weight : Not under 25 lb. or over 50 lb. The general appearance should be symmetrical, compact, strong, merry, active, and built for endurance and activity. The Welsh Springer. — Like the English Springer, the Welsh Springer has only recently come into prominence ; but i8S The Complete Book of the Dog his admirers claim for him that he has existed as a separate breed for a long time, though not beyond the bounds of the Principality, where he is referred to as the Starter. When his claims were first put forward they were vigorously con- tested by many who could speak and write with authority upon the various breeds of Spaniels, and it was freely asserted that they were nothing but crossbreds between the ordinary Springer and probably a Clumber in order to account for the red or orange markings and the vine-leaf shaped ears. Even if they are a new breed, they are a most meritorious one, both in their appearance, which is eminently sporting and work- manlike, and for the excellence of their work in the field. Those who have seen them at work have nothing but good to say of them, and for working large rough tracts of country in teams their admirers say thej^ are unequalled. In appearance they are decidedly attractive, rather more lightly built than most Spaniels, small in size, indeed, very little larger than Cockers, invariably white in colour, with red or orange markings, and possessing rather fine heads with small Clumber-shaped ears. Their general appearance is that of extremely smart and active little dogs. The Welsh Springer is described by the Sporting Spaniel Society as follows : Skull: Fairly long and fairly broad, slightly rounded, with a stop at the eyes. Jaws : Medium length, straight, fairly square, the nostrils well developed, and flesh coloured or dark. A short, chubby head is objection- able. Eyes : Hazel or dark, medium size, not prominent, not sunken, nor showing haw. Ears : Comparatively small and gradually narrowing towards the tip, covered with feather not longer than the ear, set moderately low and hanging close to the cheeks. Neck : Strong, muscular, clean in throat. Shoulders : I;i/-k h T/tos. Fail. Tricolour Ch. Bayard. Bred and owned by Lady Fowler of Braemore. Mrs. Jenkins' typical Ruhy Ch. Clevedon Cerdic. Photograph by Thos. Fall. Mrs. G. Clements' Rlack-and-tan Ch. The Goblin. Lady Fowler's Blenheim Bitch Hentzau Honevbee. KLNG CHARLES SPANIELS. Oriental Toy Dogs 289 than are the Pug and the Pekingese. They came by way of Spain from the Far East and were probably introduced during the reign of Henry VIII. The Tudors and the Stuarts alike were fond of them. It was a Toy Spaniel that accompanied Mary Queen of Scots to the scaffold. King Charles II so loved and indulged these little animals that he allowed them the full freedom of White- hall, Hampton Court and other royal palaces, and was seldom to be seen without one or more in his company. There is reason for their being associated with the name of King Charles, and they ought not to be called Toy Spaniels. When the Kennel Club proposed to class them under this general name, King Edward VII (then Prince of Wales) intervened and made a special request that they should continue to be named King Charles Spaniels. There are four recognized varieties of the breed, or strictly speaking, five, as the Marlborough Blenheims are considered a distinct type, said to have been first brought over from Spain during the reign of Charles II by John Churchill, first Duke of Marlborough, from whose home, Blenheim Palace, the name was derived. If we may take the evidence of Vandyck, Watteau, Fran9ois Boucher, and Greuze, in whose pictures they are so frequently introduced, all the Toy Spaniels of bygone days had much longer noses and smaller, flatter heads than those of the present time, and they had much longer ears, these in many instances dragging on the ground. The Marlborough Blen- heim has retained several of the ancestral points. Although this variety is of the same family, and has the same name, as the short-nosed Blenheim of the present day, there is a great deal of difference between the two types. The Marlborough is higher on the legs, which need not be so fully feathered. He has a much longer muzzle and a flatter and more contracted skull. The Marlborough possesses many of the attributes of a sporting Spaniel ; but so also does the modern Blenheim, although perhaps in a lesser degree. He has a very good scent, and has been used to work the coverts for cock and pheasant. This has led some people to the belief that the variety may be related to the Cocker Spaniel ; but the theory is not worth considering. T 290 The Complete Book of the Dog The ground colour of the Blenheim is white, with chestnut encircling the ears to the muzzle, the sides of the neck are chestnut, as are also the ears. There is a white blaze on the forehead, in the centre of which should be a clear lozenge- shaped chestnut spot, called the beauty spot, which by in- breeding with other varieties is fast being lost. Chestnut markings are on the body and on the sides of the hind-legs. The coat should incline to be curly ; the head must be flat, not broad, and the muzzle should be straight. The chestnut should be of a rich colour. The four varieties — the Black-and-tan King Charles, Tri- colour or Prince Charles Spaniel, the modern Blenheim, and the Ruby — have all the same points, differing from one another in colour only, and the following description of the points as determined by the Toy Spaniel Club serves for all : Head : Should be well domed, and in good specimens is absolutely semi- globular, sometimes even extending beyond the half-circle, and projecting over the eyes, so as nearly to meet the upturned nose. Eyes : The eyes are set wide apart, with the ej'elids square to the line of the face, not oblique or fox-like. The eyes themselves are large, and dark as possible, so as to be generally considered black, their enormous pupUs, which are absolutely of that colour, increasing the description. There is always a certain amount of weeping shown at the inner angles. This is owing to a defect in the lachrymal duct. Stop : The " stop " or hollow between the eyes is well marked, as in the Bulldog, or even more so ; some good specimens exhibit a hollow deep enough to bury a small marble. Nose : The nose must be short and well turned up between the eyes, and without any indication of artificial displacement afforded by a deviation to either side. The colour of the end should be black, and it should be both deep and wide with open nostrils. Jaw : The muzzle must be square and deep, and the lower jaw wide between the branches, leaving plenty of space for the tongue, and for the attachment of the lower lips, which should completely conceal the teeth. It should also be turned up or " finished," so as to allow of its meeting the end of the upper jaw turned up in a similar way, as above described. Ears : The ears must be long, so as to approach the ground. In an average-sized dog they measure 20 inches from tip to tip, and some reach 22 inches, or even a trifle more. They should be set low on the head, hang flat to the sides of the cheeks, and be heavily feathered. In this last respect the King Charles is expected to exceed the Blenheim, and his ears occasionally extend to 24 inches. Size : The most desirable size is indicated by the accepted weight of from 7 lb. to 10 lb. Shape : In compactness of shape these Spaniels also rival the Pug, but the length of coat adds greatly to the apparent bulk, as the body, when the coat is wetted, looks small in comparison with that dog. Still, it ought to be decidedly " cobby," with strong, stout legs, short broad back and wide chest. The symmetry of the King Charles is of importance, but it is seldom that there is any defect in this respect. Coat : The coat should be long, silky, soft and wavy, but not curly. In the Blenheim there should be a profuse mane, extending well down in the front of the chest. The feather should be well displayed on the ears and feet, and in the latter case so tliickly as to give the appearance of their being webbed. It is also carried well up the backs of the legs. In the Black- and-tan the feather on the ears is very long and profuse, exceeding that Oriental Toy Dogs 291 of the Blenheim by an iuch or more. The feather ou the tail (which is cut to the lengtli of 3J to 4 inches) sliould be silky, and from 5 to 6 inches in length, constituting a marked " flag " of a square shape, and not carried above the level of the back. Colour : The colour difl^ers with the variety. The Black-aud-tan is a rich glossy black and deep mahogany tan ; tan spots over the eyes, and the usual markings on the muzzle, chest, and legs are also required. The Ruby is a rich chestnut red, and is whole-coloured. The presence of a few white hairs intermixed with the black on the chest of a Black-and-tan, or intermixed with the red on the chest of a Ruby Spaniel, shall carry weight against a dog, but shall not in itself absolutely disqualify ; but a white patch on the chest or white on any other part of a Black-and- tan or Ruby Spaniel shall be a disqualification. The Blenheim must on no account be whole-coloured, but should have a ground of pure pearly white, with bright rich chestnut or ruby red markings evenly distributed in large patches. The ears and cheeks should be red, with a blaze of white extendmg from the nose up the forehead, and ending between the ears in a crescentric curve. In the centre of this blaze at the top of the forehead there shoidd be a clear " spot " of red, of the size of a sixpence. Tan ticks on the forelegs and on the white muzzle are desirable. The Tricolour should in part have the tan of the Black-and-tan, with markings like the Blenheim in black instead of red on a pearly-white ground. The ears and under the tail shovdd also be lined with tan. The Tricolour has no " spot," that beauty being peculiarly the property of the Blenheim. The All Red King Charles is known by the name of " Ruby Spaniel " ; the colour of the nose is black. The points of the Ruby are the same as those of the Black-aud-tan, differ- ing only in colour. The different varieties of Toy Spaniels have been so much interbred that a litter has been reputed to contain the four kinds, but this would be of very rare occurrence. The Blen- heim is now often crossed with the Tricolour, when the litter may consist of puppies quite true to the two types. The crossing of the King Charles with the Ruby is also attended with very good results, the tan marldngs on the King Charles becoming very bright and the colour of the Ruby also being improved. Neither of these specimens should be crossed with either the Blenheim or the Tricolour, as white must not appear in either the King Charles or the Ruby Spaniel. It is regretted by some of the admirers of these dogs that custom has ordained that their tails should be docked. As portrayed in early pictures of the King Charles and the Blen- heim varieties, the tails are long, well flagged, and inclined to curve gracefully over the back, and in none of the pictures of the supposed ancestors of our present Toy Spaniels — even so recent as those painted by Sir Edwin Landseer — do we find an absence of the long tail. Although the Toy Spaniels are unquestionably true aristo- crats by nature, birth, and breeding, and arc most at home in a drawing-room or on a well-kept lawn, they are by no means 292 The Complete Book of the Dog deficient in sporting spirit, and, in spite of their short noses, their scent is very keen. They thoroughly enjoy a good scamper, and are all the better for not being too much pam- pered. They are very good house-dogs, intelligent and affectionate, and have sympathetic, coaxing little ways. One point in their favour is the fact that they are not noisy, and do not yap continually, as is the habit with some breeds of toy dogs. Those who have once had King Charles Spaniels as pets seldom care to replace them by any other variety of dog, fearing lest they might not find in another breed such engag- ing little friends and companions. Although these dogs need care, they possess great powers of endurance. They appreciate warmth and comfort, but do not thrive so well in either ex- treme heat or intense cold. One thing to be avoided is the wetting of their feathered feet, or, should this happen, allowing them to remain so ; and, as in the case of all dogs with long ears, the interior of the ears should be carefully kept dry to avoid the risk of canker. ) Formerly a great number of these ornamental pets were in the hands of working men living in the East End of London, and competition to own the best was very keen. The value of good specimens in early days appears to have been from £5 to £250, which latter sum is said to have been refused by a comparatively poor man for a small Black-and-tan with very long ears, and a nose much too long for our present-day fancy. Like the Pug and the Pomeranian, King Charles Spaniels have been subjected to keen competition with the Pekingese. In 1920 they were omitted from the Kennel Club show schedule ; but they are coming back to their own again, and at a recent show there were as many as 136 entries. Among the most successful exhibitors of late years have been the Hon. Mrs. McLaren Morrison, the Hon. Mrs. Lytton, Mrs. Graves, Mrs. L. H. Thompson, Miss Young, Mrs. H. B. Looker, Mrs. Privette, Miss Hall, Mrs. Dean, Mr. H. Taylor, Mrs. Bright, Mrs. Adamson, Miss Spofforth, Mrs. Hope Pater- son, Mrs. Lydia Jenkins, and Miss E. Taylor. While many of these remain to gain fresh laurels, they have been joined by such more recent devotees as Lady De Gex, Lady Edward Spencer Churchill, Lady Fowler of Braemore (breeder of Ch. Oriental Toy Dogs 293 Bayard), Mrs. E. A. Pcmberton, Mrs. Hecksher (breeder of the best Ruby bitch, Lovejoy), Mrs. R. VV. Clements, whose Black-and-tan The GobUn is rivalled only by Mrs. Graves' Sweet Iris, Mrs. Raymond Mallock, and Mrs. Gardner ; while the sterner sex are represented by Mr. W. Hum and Mr. Bryan. The novice fancier, desirous of breeding for profit, exhibi- tion, or pleasure, when price is an object for consideration, is often better advised to purchase a healthy puppy from a breeder of repute rather than to be deluded with the notion that a good adult can be purchased for a few pounds, or to be carried away with the idea that a cheap, indifferently bred specimen will produce first-class stock. It takes years to breed out bad points, but good blood will tell. When you are purchasing a bitch with the intention of breeding, many in- quiries should be made as to the stock from which she comes. This will influence the selection of the sire to whom she is to be mated, and he should excel in the points in which she is deficient. It is absolutely necessary to have perfectly healthy animals, and if the female be young, and small stock is desired, her mate should be several years her senior. A plain specimen of the right blood is quite likely to produce good results to the breeder ; for example, should there be two female puppies in a well-bred litter, one remarkable as promising to have all the requirements for a coming champion, the other large and plain, this latter should be selected for breeding purposes as, being stronger, she will make a better and more useful mother than her handsome sister, who should be kept for exhibition, or for sale at a remunerative price. The modern craze for small specimens makes them quite unsuitable for procreation. A brood bitch should not be less than 9 lb. in weight, and even heavier is preferable. A sire the same size will produce small and far more typical stock than one of 5 lb. or 6 lb., as the tendency is to degenerate, especially in head points ; but small size can be obtained by suitably selecting the parents. Puppies of this breed are essentially delicate, and must be kept free from cold and draughts, but they require liberty and freedom to develop and strengthen their limbs, otherwise they are liable to develop rickets. Their food should be of the best quality, and after the age of six months nothing seems 294 The Complete Book of the Dog more suitable than stale brown bread, cut up dice size, and moistened with good stock gravy, together with minced, lean, underdone roast beef, with the addition, two or three times a week, of a little well-cooked green vegetable, varied with rice or suet pudding and plain biscuits. Fish may also be given occasionally. When only two or three dogs are kept, table scraps will generally be sufficient, but the pernicious habit of feeding at all times, and giving sweets, pastry, and rich dainties, is most harmful, and must produce disastrous results to the unfortunate animal. Two meals a day at regular intervals are quite sufficient to keep these little pets in the best condi- tion, although puppies should be fed four times daily in small quantities. After leaving the mother they will thrive better if put on dry food, and a small portion of scraped or finely minced lean meat given them every other day, alternately with a chopped hard-boiled egg and stale bread-crumbs. CHAPTER XIX Acclimatized Toys The Pug — The Pomeranian — The Maltese — The Brussels Griffon The Pug. — The Pug, in its fawn-coloured variety, is a venerable breed. It enjoys the antiquity of long descent that is attached to the Maltese dog and the crush-nosed canines of China and Japan, Many writers have been per- plexed in their attempt to account for its origin, and even scientific naturalists have often gone astray. In the Natural History Museum at South Kensington, where mounted speci- mens of the various types of dog are kept for the education of students, the Pug is classed among the Pugnaces in relation- ship with the British Bulldog and the English Mastiff ! This is clearly an error. The Pug is certainly not British, and as certainly it is not a fighting dog. Statements have appeared from time to time to the effect that the breed was brought into this country from Holland. That may be true. In the last century it was commonly called the Dutch Pug. But this theory does not trace the history far enough back, and it should be remembered that a hundred years ago the Dutch East India Company was in constant communication with the Far East. The study of canine history receives frequent enlightenment from the study of the growth of commercial intercourse between nations, and the trend of events would lead one to the belief that the Pug had its origin in China, particularly in view of the fact that it is with that country that most of the blunt-nosed toy dogs, with tails curled over their backs, are associated. There is a variety of Pekingese dog which is smooth coated, and if you can imagine a Pug with long hair, the fancied picture of him will rather closely resemble a not very good Pekingese. If we got the Pug from Holland it is almost certain that the Dutch imported him from Far Cathay, where he was known as the Happa dog. 295 296 The Complete Book of the Dog The Pug was known in England a century ago. At that time it was customary to crop his ears, and he may be seen thus disfigured in old Dutch earthenware jugs and in many of the paintings of the early nineteenth century. But it was some seventy-five years since that the Pug was brought into prominence in Great Britain by Lady Willoughby de Eresby, of Grimthorpe, near Lincoln, and Mr. Morrison, of Walham Green, who each independently established a kennel of these dogs, with such success that eventually the fawn Pugs were spoken of as either the Willoughby or the Morrison Pugs. At that period the black variety was not known. The Wil- loughby Pug was duller in colour than the Morrison, which was of a brighter, ruddier hue, but the two varieties have since been so much interbred that they are now undistinguishable, and the fact that they were ever familiarly recognized as either Willoughbys or Morrisons is almost entirely forgotten. A " fawn " Pug may now be either silver grey or apricot, and equally valuable. The Pug had not been long introduced into England before it became a popular favourite as a pet, and it shared with the King Charles Spaniel the affection of the great ladies of the land. Queen Victoria possessed one, of which she was very proud. The Pug has, however, now fallen from his high estate as a ladies' pet, and his place has been usurped by the Toy Pomeranian, the Pekingese, and the Japanese, all of which are now more highly thought of in the drawing-room or boudoir. But the Pug has an advantage over all these dogs as, from the fact that he has a shorter coat, he is cleaner and does not require so much attention. It was not until the establishment of the Pug Dog Club in 1883 that a fixed standard of points was drawn up for the guidance of judges when awarding the prizes to Pugs. Later on the London and Provincial Pug Club was formed, and standards of points were drawn up by that society. These, however, have never been adhered to. The weight of a dog or bitch, according to the standard, should be from 12 lb. to 16 lb., but there are very few dogs indeed that are winning prizes who would fail to draw the scale at the maximum weight. One of the most distinctive features of a fawn Pug is the trace, which is a line of black running along the top Acclimatized Toys 297 of the back from the occiput to the tail. It is the exception to find a fawn Pug with any trace at all now. The muzzle should be short, blunt, but not upfaced. Most of the winning Pugs of the present day are undershot at least half an inch, and consequently must be upfaced. Hardly more than one champion of the present day possesses a level mouth. The toe-nails should be black according to the standard, but this point is ignored altogether. In fact, the standard, as drawn up by the Club, should be completely revised, for it is no true guide. The colour, which should be either silver or apricot fawn, the markings on the head, which should show a thumb- mark or diamond on the forehead, together with the orthodox size, are not now taken into consideration, and the prizes are given to over-sized dogs with big skulls that are patchy in colour, and the charming little Pugs which were once so highly prized are now the exception rather than the rule, while the large, lustrous eyes, so sympathetic in their expression, are seldom seen. The black Pug is a recent production. He was brought into notice in 1886, when Lady Brassey exhibited some at the Maidstone Show. By whom he was manufactured is not a matter of much importance, as with the fawn Pug in existence there was not much difficulty in crossing it with the shortest- faced black dog of small size that could be found, and then back again to the fawn, and the thing was done. Fawn and black Pugs are continually being bred together, and, as a rule, if judgment is used in the selection of suitable crosses, the puppies are sound in colour, whether fawn or black. In every respect except markings the black Pug should be built on the same lines as the fawn, and be a cobby little dog with short back and well-developed hind-quarters, wide in skull, with square and blunt muzzle and tightly curled tail. Among the Pugs of the past which have given distinction to the breed one remembers in particular Mr. T. Proctor's Ch. Confidence and his son York, both of them correct in every respect ; Mrs. Gresham's Ch. Grindley King, Miss Rosa Little's Ch. Betty of Pomfret and Miss L. Burnett's Ch. Master Jasper. These were all fawn Pugs. Prominent in the black variety have been Miss F. M. Daniel's Ch. Bouji, Miss Little's Ch. Lady Mimosa, and Mrs. Gresham's Jack 298 The Complete Book of the Dog Valentine. It was for the last-named Pug that the late Marquis of Anglesea paid the very high price of £250. Jack Valentine was bred by Miss J. W. Neish, who had a fine kennel of Pugs in Forfarshire. Mrs. J. St. G. Martineau has for many years been a prominent breeder and exhibitor of ex- cellent Pugs. Her fawn champion, Oriel Bruce, has always been admired for his perfection in the desirable points, and in spite of his years he is still able to win prizes. When the portrait of him, in company with his kennel mate, Joyce, was taken at Olympia in the hot July of 1921, the sun was in their faces, and this accounts for their closed eyes and their some- what sleepy expression. The Pomeranian. — The similarity between the Pomeranian and the northern wolf-spitz, or Laika, is too close to be acci- dental. Before the era of dog shows the Pomeranian was quite a large dog, generally white in colour, resembling the Samoyed breed, from which it most probably originated. Various colours were gradually introduced, and a preference for small dogs led to the present diminutive size. The breed was known in Great Britain a century ago, as may be seen by Gainsborough's portrait of " Perdita " Robinson ; but there was no systematic register of Pomeranians prior to the year 1870, and even ten years later than that date so little was the variety appreciated that a well-known writer on dogs began an article with the words, " The Pomeranian is admittedly one of the least interesting dogs in existence, and consequently his supporters are few and far between." The animal thus criticized hardly exists to-day, and it would not be recognized as a relative of the dear little morsels of fluffiness which are now to be found at every fashionable dog show. The records of the Kennel Club give interesting evidence of the curious lluctuations in Pomeranian popularity. In 1870 three of the breed were exhibited, and no increase in the number occurred at the chief dog show in England until 1881, when fifteen were entered. In 1890 not a single Pomer- anian was shown ; but in the next year there was a leap to fourteen ; in 1901 to sixty, and in 1905 to the record number of a hundred and twenty-five. Then competition with the Acclimatized Toys 299 Pekingese began, and the Pomeranian slipped back and back in popukirity until at the Kennel Club Show in 1921 there were but twenty-three specimens of the breed on exhibition. The standard of points issued by the Pomeranian Club of England in 1891 is very explicit : Appearance : The Pomeranian should be a compact, sliort coupled dog, well knit in frame. He should exhibit great intelligence in his expression, and activity and buoyancy in his deportment. Head and Nose : Should be foxy in outline or wedge-shaped, the skull being slightly flat, large in pro- portion to the muzzle, which should finish rather fine and free from lippi- ness. The teeth should be level, and should on no account be undershot. The hair on the head and face should be smooth and short-coated. The nose should be black in white, orange and sable dogs ; but in other colours may be self, but never parti-colour or white. Ears : Should be small, not set too far apart, not too low down, but carried perfectly erect like those of a fox, and, like the head, should be covered with short, soft hair. Eyes : Should be medium in size, not full, nor set too wide apart, bright and dark in colour, showing great intelligence ; in white, shaded sable, or orange dogs the rims round the eyes should be black. Neck and Body : The neck should be rather short, well set in. The back must be short and the body compact, being well ribbed up and the barrel well rounded. The chest must be fairly deep and not too wide, but in proportion to the size of the dog. Legs : The forelegs must be well feathered, perfectly straight, of medium length, and not such as would be termed " leggy " or " low " on leg, but in due proportion in length and strength to a well-balanced frame. Must be fine in bone and free in "action. The hind-legs and thighs must be well feathered, neither contracted nor wide behind ; the feet small and compact in shape. Shoulders should be clean, and well laid back. Tail : The tail is one of the characteristics of the breed, and should be turned over the back and carried flat and straight, being profusely covered with long, harsh, spreading hair. Coat : There should be two coats, an undercoat and an overcoat ; the one a soft fluffy undercoat, the other a long, perfectly straight coat, harsh in texture, covering the whole of the body, being very abundant round the neck and fore part of the shoulders and chest, where it should form a frill of profuse standing off straight hair, extending over the shoulders. The hind-quarters should be clad with long hair or feather- ing from the top of the rump to the hock. Colour : All whole colours are admissible, but they should be free from white or shadings, and the whites must be quite free from lemon or any other colour. A few white hairs in any of the self colours shall not necessarily disqualify. At present the whole-coloured dogs are : White, black, brown (light or dark), blue (as pale as possible), orange (which should be as deep and even in colour as possible), beaver, or cream. Dogs, other than white, with white foot or feet, leg or legs, are decidedly objectionable and should be discour- aged, and cannot compete as whole-coloured specimens. In parti-coloured dogs the colours should be evenly distributed on the body in patches ; a dog with white or tan feet or chest would not be a parti-colour. Shaded sables should be shaded throughout with three or more colours, the hairs to be as " uniformly shaded " as possible, with no patches of self colour. In mixed classes where whole-coloured and parti-coloured Pomeranians compete together, the preference should, if in other points tliey are equal, be given to the whole-coloured specimens. Where classification is not by colours the following is recommended for adoption by show committees : (i) Not exceeding 7 lb. (Pomeranian Miniatures). (2) Exceeding 7 lb. (Pomeranians). (3) Pomeranians and Pomeranian Miniatures mixed. 300 The Complete Book of the Dog VALUE OF POINTS Appearance . Head . Eyes Ears Nose Neck and shoulders Body . Legs Tail Coat Colour . 15 5 5 5 5 5 10 5 ID 25 ID Total The white variety of Poms adhere more closely to the primitive type than do the others, and although many have been bred small, yet there is an inclination to revert to the heavier weight which excludes them from the miniature classes. I do not happen to know any distinctively good white Pom just now to compare with Ch. Tatcho and many that were bred or owned a dozen years ago by Miss Hamilton, of Rozelle, Miss Lee-Roberts, Miss Chell and Mrs. Goodall-Copestake. More black Pomeranians have been bred in England than any other colour, but they are hardly so perfect now as such early celebrities as Billie Tee, Marland King, and Gatcacre Zulu, although one must make exception in the case of Mrs. Franklin's beautiful brace of champions Dimanche and Tre- vorina, of Mrs. Peters's Chiswick Sultan and Mr. T. Brown's Chiswick Ebony. Among the browns, perhaps none has equalled Ch. Tina, who scaled a little under 5 lb. This beauti- ful little lady was bred by Mrs. Addis and won over every Pomeranian that competed against her. To-day perhaps the best of this colour is Miss B. Stevens's King Darkie's Gift. The shaded sables have always been popular. One re- members such distinguished examples as Mrs. Hall Walker's Dainty Boy and Dainty Belle, and Mrs. Vale Nicolas's lovely Sable Mite. Miss Ives had an excellent sable in Dragon Fly, and Miss Bland's Marland Topaz was a celebrity hardly excelled in quality even by the Erimus Mighty Atom, which Mrs. Langton Dennis is now showing, or by Mrs. Peters's Chiswick Swell. A great point in the shaded sable is in the delicate blending of the colours, one melting into the other without abruptness or patchiness. Acclimatized Toys 301 The omngo-coloured Pomeranians are perhaps the most charming of all. They are whole coloured, with very little lighter shading. Mr. W. Brown, of Raleigh, was the principal breeder some years ago. Tiny Boy and Orange Boy were among his best ; and Miss Hamilton, of Rozelle, added con- siderably to the popularity of the orange colouring. At present this variety is distinguished by the inclusion of Miss Wilson's famous champion dog Flashaway of Dara, after whom come Dara's daughter Ch. Morceau D'or, Mrs. M. Brown's Gold Premium, Mrs. Jack's Sunburst of Perivale, and Mrs. Judge-Brown's Sunbright Sun. But Flashaway of Dara is by a long way the superlative specimen. One of the many charms of the Pomeranian is this assort- ment in coloration. It adds greatly to the interest in com- petition, and preserves the breed from all danger of becoming uniformly monotonous. As a show dog the Pom is always an attraction, and under careful management the commerce of buying and selling and breeding may be very profitable. A really good Pom can fetch as much as £250. One has re- cently been catalogued at the sale value of £5,000. This, of course, is a prohibitory price, intimating that the dog's owner would not part with him for untold wealth. A Pomeranian who is not equal to show form, however, is still a desirable dog. He is alert and not lazy, is a very good watch, if some- times a little noisy and persistent in his barking. He is gener- ally clean and sweet in the house, and not difficult to keep in healthy condition. As a companion out of doors he is as good as any of the toy breeds, always taking a proprietary interest in his owner. It may be added that in grooming a Pom the operator brushes the hair against the stream, forward to the head, to give the fur the required upright fluffiness and depth. The use of the scissors in trimming the ears or feet is prohibited, and not really necessary. The Maltese. — No doubt has been cast upon the belief that the small, white, silky Canis Melitams is the most ancient of all the lap-dogs of the Western world. It was a favourite in the time of Phidias ; it was an especial pet of the great ladies of Imperial Rome. It appears to have come originally from the Adriatic island of Melita rather than from the Mediterranean 302 The Complete Book of the Dog Malta, although this supposition cannot be verified. There is, however, no question that it is of European origin, and that the breed, as we know it to-day, has altered exceedingly little in type and size since it was alluded to by Aristotle. The " offspring of the stock of Malta " were probably first imported into England during the reign of Henry VIII. It is certain that they were regarded as " meet playfellows for mincing mistresses " in the reign of Elizabeth, whose physician. Dr. Caius, alluded to them as being distinct from the Spaniel, " gentle or comforter," and averred that it was customary when Maltese puppies were born to press or twist the nasal bone with the fingers " in order that they may seem more elegant in the sight of men " — a circumstance which goes to show that our forerunners were not averse from improving artificially the points of their dogs. The snowy whiteness and soft, silky texture of its coat must always cause the Maltese dog to be admired ; but the variety has never been commonly kept in England. Forty or fifty years ago it was more popular as a lap-dog than it has ever been since, and in the early days of dog shows many beautiful specimens were exhibited by Mr. R. Mandeville, of Southwark, who has been referred to as virtually the founder of the modern Maltese. His Fido and Lily were certainly the most perfect representatives of the breed during the decade between i860 and 1870, and at the shows held at Birmingham, Islington, the Crystal Palace, and Cremome Gardens, this beautiful brace was unapproachable. Mrs. Carlo Clarke has made many efforts to popularize the breed in England, but the popularity has been spasmodic, and it is very rarely that we see such good models as her own Boule de Neige, or Lady Gifford's Hugh, or the Hon. Mrs. McLaren Morrison's Melita. Such later specimens as Mrs. Chard's Snowflack, Mr, Leese's Lady Macdonald and Miss Van Oppen's Snowflake of Esperance have not been excelled within recent years. The best off- spring of the variety appear, however, to have migrated to Canada, where they are far more commonly appreciated than in England, or even than in Scotland, where many especially good ones have been prominent. A cold climate seems to suit this long-haired breed, notwithstanding that it comes from so far south as the Mcditeiranean. Miss \"an Oppcn's Maltese Ch. Snowflake of Espcrance. Miss G. Franklin's Ch. Morceau d'Or. Miss L. \Vilson's Ch. Flashaway of Dara. POMERANIANS. Miss M. .\. Bland's Ch. Marland King. Mrs. J. St. George Martineau's I'ugs Ch. Oriel Bruce and Oriel Joyce. Acclimatized Toys 303 It is a breed which to be kept in perfection requires more than ordinary attention, not only on account of its silky jacket, which is peculiarly liable to become matted, and is difficult to keep absolutely clean without frequent washing, but also on account of a somewhat delicate constitution, the Maltese being susceptible to colds and chills. If affected by such causes, the eyes are often attacked, and the water running from them induces a brown stain to mar the beauty of the face. Skin eruptions due to unwise feeding, or para- sites due to uncleanliness, are quickly destructive to the silky coat, and constant watchfulness is necessary to protect the dog from all occasion for scratching. The diet is an important consideration always, and a nice discernment is imperative in balancing the proportions of meat and vegetable. Too much meat is prone to heat the blood, while too little induces eczema. Scraps of bread and green vegetables well mixed with gravy and finely minced lean meat form the best dietary for the principal meal of the day, and plenty of exercise is necessary. Coddling is to be avoided. Owners who keep their canine pets ii) jewel caskets have only themselves to blame if the little things fail to exhibit the intelligence which comes of unrestrained enjoyment of free life. It is well to preserve the beauty of a silky white robe, but not at the sacrifice of its owner's physical comfort and freedom. The be.=t way to keep a Maltese is to give it plenty of open air exercise, to feed it judiciously, and to let the coat be subjected to as little grooming and washing as will serve merely to preserve it from tangle and from dirt. If it is intended for exhibition, there will be plenty of time to get the hair in condition a fortnight or so before the show. The following is the standard description of the Maltese : Head : Should not be too narrow, but should be of a Terrier shape, not too long, but not apple-headed. Ears : Should be long and well feathered, and hang dose to the side of the head, the hair to be well mingled with the coat at the shoulders. Eyes : Should be a dark brown, with black eye rims and not too far apart. Nose : Should be pure black. Legs and Feet : Legs should be short and straight, feet round, and the pads of the feet should be black. Body and Shape : Should be short and cobby, low to the ground, and the back should be straight from the top of the shoulders to the tail. Tail and Carriage : Should be well arched over the back and well feathered. Coat, Length and Texture : Should be a good length, the longer the better, of a silky texture, not in any way woolly, and should be straight. Colour : It is desirable that they should be pure white, but slight lemon marks should 304 The Complete Book of the Dog not count against them. Condition and Appearance : Should be of a sharp Terrier appearance, with a Hvely action, the coat should not be stained, but should be well groomed in every way. Size : The most approved weights should be from 4 lb. to 9 lb., the smaller the better, but it is desirable that they should not exceed 10 lb. The Brussels Griffon. — No one who is well acquainted with the Brussels Griffon would claim that the breed dates back, like the Maltese, to hoary antiquity, or, indeed, that it has any pretensions to have " come over with the Conqueror." Lady Spicer, who is a great authority on the breed, and was until lately the leading judge and exhibitor, is of opinion that it is a manufactured dog, related to the little red terriers of Yorkshire ; but pictorial art often supplies better evidence than mere conjecture, and in our National Gallery there is the famous portrait of Jan Arnolfini and his wife, painted by Jan Van Eyck in 1434, in which is introduced a tiny, rough- coated, short-faced dog of unmistakable Griffon type, size and colour. As this picture was painted in the neighbourhood of Brussels and the dog was not done from imagination, I am disposed to believe that our now fashionable breed is of un- diluted Flemish origin, cultivated to the type of the modern Brussels Griffon. Even in the last twenty-five years we can trace a certain advance in the evolution of the Griffon. When the breed was first introduced into this country, under- jaw was accounted of little or no importance, whereas now a prominent chin is rightly recognized as being one of the most important physical characteristics of the race. Then, again, quite a few years ago a Griffon with a red pin-wire coat was rarely met with, but now this point has been generally rectified, and every show specimen of any account whatever possesses the much-desired covering. The first authentic importations into this country were made by Mrs. Kingscote, Miss Adela Gordon, Mrs. Frank Pearce, and Fletcher, who at that time {circa 1894) kept a dog-shop in Regent Street. Mrs. Handley Spicer soon fol- lowed, and it was at her house that, in 1896, the Griffon Bruxellois Club was first suggested and then formed. The Brussels Griffon Club of London was a later offshoot of this club, but it served no permanent purpose and has since been dissolved. Griffons soon made their appearance at Acclimatized Toys 305 shows and won many admirers, though it must be admitted that their progress up the ladder of popularity was not so rapid as might have been expected. The breed is especially attractive in the following points : It is hardy, compact, portable, very intelligent, equally smart and alert in appear- ance, affectionate, very companionable, and, above all, it possesses the special characteristic of wonderful eyes, ever changing in expression, and compared with which the eyes of many other toy breeds appear as a glass bead to a fathomless lake. Griffons, like most other toy dogs, are more susceptible to damp than to cold. While not greedy, like the Terrier tribe, they are usually good feeders and good doers, and not tiresomely dainty with regard to food. It is acknowledged that they are not the easiest of dogs to rear, particularly at weaning time. From five to eight weeks is always a critical period in the puppyhood of a Griffon, and it is necessary to supersede their maternal nourishment with extreme caution. Farinace- ous foods do not answer, and usually cause trouble sooner or later. A small quantity of scraped raw beef — an eggspoonful at four weeks, increasing to a teaspoonful at six — may be given once a day, and from four to five weeks two additional meals of warm milk — goat's for preference — and not more than a tablespoonful at a time should be given. From five to six weeks the mother will remain with the puppies at night only, and three milk meals may be given during the day, with one of scraped meat, at intervals of about four hours, care being taken to give too little milk rather than too much. At six weeks the puppies may usually be taken entirely from the mother, and at this time it is generally advisable to give a gentle vermifuge, such as Ruby. A very little German rusk may also be added to the milk meals, which may be increased to one and a half tablespoonfuls at a time, but it must always be remembered that, in nine cases out of ten, trouble is caused by overfeeding rather than underfeeding, and until the rubicon of eight weeks has been passed, care and oversight should be unremitting. At eight weeks old. Force or brown bread- crumbs may be added to the morning milk, chopped meat may be given instead of scraped at midday, the usual milk at tea- time, and a dry biscuit, such as Plasmon, for suppei. At u 3o6 The Complete Book of the Dog ten weeks old the milk at tea-time may be discontinued and the other meals increased accordingly, and very little further trouble need be feared, for Griffons very rarely suffer from teething troubles. Like most other hard-coated dogs, they are better without frequent baths, but regular grooming should take place daily ; by grooming being understood the sponging of the eyes and muzzles, together with a thorough combing of the coat and general inspection of the skin. Brussels Griffons are divided into three groups, according to their appearance, and representatives of each group may be, and sometimes are, found in one and the same litter. First and foremost, both in importance and in beauty, comes the Griffon Bruxellois, a cobby, compact little dog, with wiry red coat, large eyes, short nose, well turned up and sloping backward, very prominent chin, and small ears. Secondly come those of any other colour, or, as they are termed in Brussels, Griffons Beiges. These are very often of the usual colour, with a mismark of white or black, or occasionally they may be grey or fawn. But the most approved colour, and certainly the most attractive, is black-and-tan. The third group is that termed " smooth," or, in Brussels, Griffons Braban9ons. The smooth Griffon is identical with the rough in all points except for being short-haired. As is well known, smooth Griffons are most useful for breeding rough ones with the desired hard red coat, and many well-known show dogs with rough coats have been bred from smooth ones : for example. Sparklets, Ch. Copthorne Lobster, Ch. Copthome Treasure, Ch. Cop- thorne Talk-o'-the-Town, and Copthorne Blunderbuss. This and many other facts in connexion with breeding Griffons will be learnt from experience, always the best teacher. The dogs just named were bred by Lady Spicer, who, until her recent retirement, did more for the improvement of the breed in Great Britain than any other enthusiast. Her " Copthorne " prefix is sought for in all pedigrees of the best blood in each of the varieties. Mr. and Mrs. T. Whaley have also been energetic supporters of the breed ; their Glenartney Griffons are well known. Mrs. J. H. Charters, Mrs. G, J. Morgan, and Miss E. M. Croucher are among the many promin- ent owners and breeders at the present time. Mrs. Morgan, Acclimatized Toys 307 who acquired the whole of Lady Spicer's stock, has quite the largest and most representative kennel of this breed in Great Britain, and her " Coptharrow " aflix is always a guarantee of the best blood. Her charming Red Rogue and Bad Lad of Coptharrow are candidates for future celebrity. Mrs. Charters owns perhaps the most famous individual smooth Griffon in Ch. Pax of St. Margaret, and an admirable rough red in Flame of St. Margaret. In this latter class the bitches excel the dogs, Miss Plunket's Rosaleen and Virago and Mrs. Shambrook Saunders' Brenda and Box-o'-Tricks are dis- tinguished champions. The contemporary smooth bitch of highest repute is Mrs. Sainsbury's Ch. Elizabeth. The descriptive particulars of the Brussels Griffon are : General Appearance : A lady's little dog — intelligent, sprightly, robust, of compact appearance — reminding one of a cob, and captivating the atten- tion by a quasi-human expression. Head : Rounded, furnished with some- what hard, irregular hairs, longer round the eyes, on the nose and cheeks. Ears : Erect when cropped as in Belgium, semi-erect when uncropped. Eyes : Very large, black, or nearly black ; eyelids edged with black, eyelashes long and black, eyebrows covered with hairs, leaving the eye they encircle perfectly uncovered. Nose : Always black, short, surrounded with hair con- verging upward to meet those which surround the eyes. Very pronounced stop. Lips : Edged with black, furnished with a moustache. A little black in the moustache is not a fault. Chin : Prominent without showmg the teeth, and edged with a small beard. Chest : Rather wide and deep. Legs : As straight as possible, of mediimi length. Tail : Erect, and docked to two- thirds. Colour : In the Grifltons Bruxellois, red ; in the Griffons Beiges, preferably black-and-tan, but also grey or fawn ; in the Petit Braban^on, red or black-and-tan. Texture of Coat : Harsh and wirj-, irregular, rather long and thick. In the Brabangon it is smooth and short. Weight : Light weight, 5 lb. maximum ; and heavy weight, 9 lb. maximum. Faults : The faults to be avoided are light eyes, silky hair on the head, brown nails, teeth showing, a hanging tongue or a brown nose. While they are not trick dogs, Brussels Griffons are easily taught. They are the most knowing of all toys, causing constant amusement by their funny ways and their quaint human expression. CHAPTER XX The Miniature Breeds Miniature Bulldogs — The French Bulldog — The Yorkshire Terrier — Toy Poodles — Black-and-tan AND Bull-terriers — Italian Greyhounds Many of the large kinds of dog are represented in miniature varieties, which are classed among Toys and Pets. In several instances these pygmy specimens possess all the characteristics of the originals of which they are but small editions, differing only in the matter of size and weight. Miniature Bulldogs. — Bantam Bulldogs are not really toys ; they are simply little ones, answering to the same standard of points as the ordinary Bulldog excepting that their weight is not more than 15 or 16 lb. Some few years ago this variety of our national breed entered into close com- petition against the bat-eared French Bulldog, and many re- markably good ones were brought forward by Lady Kathleen Pilkington, Mrs. Carlo Clarke, Mrs. Burrcll and other ladies ; but there appeared to be no great advantage in cultivating small size in a dog which was already so firmly fixed in type as the greater Bulldog, whereas the Miniature had no outstand- ing attractions, excepting those of car carriage, which were not present in the Bouledogue Fran9ais. Miniature Bulldogs, of course, still exist ; but they are no longer being forced into public notice, and I doubt if they are still being designedly bred to the aim of diminutive size. The French Bulldog. — It was from the Engli<=h variety of pygmy Bulldogs that the now fashionable French Bulldog was evolved. In the early 'fifties of the last century there was a constant migration of laceworkers from Nottingham to the coast towns of Normandy, and these people frequently took their little Bulldogs with them. The process may have been intentional or accidental, but it is commonly believed that it was from these little Nottingham dogs that the French Bull- 308 French Hulldog Ch. L'Enfant Prodigue. Bred and owned by Mrs. Hubert Roberts Mrs. Morf;an's Brussels Griftbn Red Rogue of Coptharrow. Mrs. Tilbur\'s \'i)r'Kshire Terrier Ch. The Miller's Daughter. Mrs. C. J. M ' ;rifl"uns Red Rogue, Bad Lad .\\n\ IMain Jane of Coptharrow. -The Miniature Breeds 309 dog got all but its large tulip ears. When this altered variety was imported into England somewhere about 1900 it entered into competition with our English Miniatures. The two were interbred, and there was confusion. Ultimately the Kennel Club decided that they must be kept apart under different breed names, and the French dog thereafter became officially recognized as the Bouledogue Fran^ais. In 1903 the French Bulldog Club issued the following description : General Appearance : The French Bulldog ought to have the appearauce of an active, iutelligeut, and very muscular dog, of cobby build, and be heavy in bone for its size. Head : The head is of great importance. It should be large and square, with tlie forehead nearly flat ; the muscles of the cheek should be well developed, but not prominent. The stop should be as deep as possible. The skin of the head should not be tight, and the forehead should be well wrinkled. The muzzle should be short, broad, turn upwards, and be very deep. The lower jaw should project con.siderably in front of the upper, and should turn up, but should not show the teeth. Eyes : The eyes should be of moderate size and of dark colour. No white should be visible when the dog is looking straight in front of him. They should be placed low down and wide apart. Nose : The nose must be black and large. Ears : Bat cars ought to be of a medium size, large at the base and rounded at the tips. Thej' should be placed high on the head and carried straight. The orifice of the ear looks forward, and the skin should be fine and soft to the touch. Neck : The neck should be thick, short, and well arched. Body : The chest should be wide and well down between the legs, and the ribs well sprung. The body short and muscular, and well cut up. The back should be broad at the shoulder, tapering towards the loins, preferably well roached. Tail : The tail ought to be set on low and be short ; thick at the root, tapering to a point, and not carried above the level of the back. Legs : The forelegs short, straight and muscular. The hind-quarters, though strong, should be Ughter in proportion to the fore- quarters, the hocks well let down, and the feet compact and strong. Coat : The coat of medium density ; black in colour is very undesirable. Among English breeders and exhibitors of the French Bull- dog, Lady Lewis, Mrs. Charles Waterlow, Mrs. Romilly, Mrs. Lesmoir-Gordon, Mrs. F. W. Cousens, and Mrs. Hubert Roberts have been especially prominent. Mrs. Roberts is the owner of an excellent example in her present-day Ch. L' Enfant Prodigue, and Mrs. Romilly is the breeder of an equally good one of the other sex in her Ch. Venus. As companions and friends the Miniature and the French Bulldogs are alike faithful, fond, and even foolish in their devotion, as all true friends should be. They are invariably good-tempered, and, as a rule, sufficiently fond of the luxuries of this life to be easily cajoled into obedience. Remarkably intelligent, and caring enough for sport to be sympathetically 310 The Complete Book of the Dog excited at the sight of a rabbit without degenerating into cranks on the subject like terriers ; taking a keen interest in all surrounding people and objects, without, however, giving way to ceaseless barking ; enjoying outdoor exercise, without requiring an exhausting amount, they are in every way de- sirable pets for both town and country. As puppies they are delicate, and require constant care and supervision ; but that only adds a keener zest to the attrac- tive task of breeding them, the more so owing to the fact that as mothers they do not shine, and generally manifest a strong dislike to rearing their own offspring. In other respects they are quite hardy little dogs, and — one great advantage — they seldom have distemper. Cold and damp they particularly dislike, especially when puppies, and the greatest care should be taken to keep them thoroughly dry and warm. When very young indeed they can stand, and are the better for, an extraordinary amount of heat. The Yorkshire Terrier. — The most devout lover of this little terrier would fail if he were to attempt to claim for him the distinction of descent from antiquity. Bradford, and not Babylon, was his earliest home, and he must be candidly acknowledged to be a very modem manufactured variety of the dog. Yet it is important to remember that it was in Yorkshire that he was made — Yorkshire, where live the clever- est breeders of dogs that the world has known. What the Yorkshiremen of fifty years ago desired to make for themselves was a pygmy, prick-eared pet dog with a long, silky, silvery grey and tan coat. They already possessed the foundation in the old black-and-tan wire-haired terrier. To lengthen the coat of this working breed they might very well have had recourse to a cross with the Clydesdale, which was then assum- ing a fixed type. The original broken-haired Yorkshire Terrier was often called a Scotch Terrier, or even a Skye, and there are many persons who still confound the diminutive toy with the Clydesdale, whom he somewhat closely resembles. At the present time he is classified as a toy dog, and exhibited solely as such. The terrier character has been bred out of him, and while he still retains a little of his former liveliness, yet most of his dogginess has been sacrificed to the desire of his breeders for diminutive size and inordinate length of coat. The Miniature Breeds 311 Perhaps it would be an error to blame the breeders of Yorkshire Terriers for this departure from the original type as it appeared, say, about 1870. It is necessary to take into consideration the probability that what is now called the old- fashioned working variety was never regarded by the Yorkshire- men who made him as a complete and finished achievement. It was possibly their idea at the very beginning to produce just such a diminutive dog as is now to be seen in its perfec- tion at exhibitions, glorying in its flowing tresses of steel blue silk and ruddy gold ; and one must give them full credit for the patience and care with which during the past fifty years they have been steadily working to the fixed design of producing a dwarfed breed which should excel all other breeds in the length and silkiness of its robe. The extreme of culti- vation in this particular quality was reached some years ago by Mrs. Troughcar, whose little dog Conqueror, weighing 5-^- lb., had a beautiful enveloping mantle of the uniform length of four-and-twenty inches ! Doubtless all successful breeders and exhibitors of the Yorkshire Terrier have their little secrets and their peculiar methods of inducing the growth of hair. They regulate the diet with extreme particularity, keeping the dog lean rather than fat, and giving him nothing that they would not them- selves eat. Bread, mixed with green vegetables, a little meat and gravy, or fresh fish, varied with milk puddings and Spratt's " Toy Pet " biscuits, should be the staple food. Bones ought not to be given, as the act of gnawing them is apt to mar the beard and moustache. For the same reason it is well when possible to serve the food from the fingers. But many owners use a sort of mask or hood of elastic material which they tie over the dog's head at meal-times to hold back the long face-fall and whiskers that would otherwise be smeared. Similarly, as a protection for the coat, when there is any skin irritation and an inclination to scratch, linen or cotton stock- ings are worn upon the hind-feet, and at all times when the dog is not on show or being groomed his locks are tied up in ribbons. Many exhibitors pretend that they use no dressing, or very little, and this only occasionally, for the jackets of their Yorkshire Terriers ; but it is quite certain that continuous 312 The Complete Book of the Dog use of grease of some sort is not only advisable but even neces- sary. Opinions differ as to which is the best cosmetic, but Mr. Sam Jessop, who has had great experience with the breed, recommends the following preparation. Take of hydrous wool fat 2 oz., benzoated lard 2 oz., almond oil 2 oz., phenol 30 grains, alcohol (90 per cent.) | oz. The first three ingredients are melted together upon a water-bath ; the phenol, dissolved in the alcohol, being added when nearly cold ; the whole being thoroughly mixed together. Washing need not be frequent if the dog's skin is kept in good condition by judicious feeding and exercise ; but in washing, the best white curd soap should be used to bring the water into a foamy lather before the dog is put to stand in the bath, Spratt's Fomo is a valuable antiseptic shampoo for a Yorkshire. He should not be scrubbed. The soapy water is squeezed from the sponge on the parting along the neck, back and tail, leaving the head to the last. When the coat is wet, carefully work the fingers through it, keeping the long hair extended. A thick, absorbent towel should be wrapped about the dog and pressed with the hands, and when the hair begins to dry, finish the process with a clean, long bristled brush. If the coat is allowed to dry without brushing it will become wavy, which is a great objection. It is only by grooming that the silvery cascade of hair down the dog's sides and the beautiful tan face-fall that flows like a rain of gold from his head can be kept perfectly straight and free from curl or wi inkle ; and no grease or pomade could impart to the coat the glistening sheen that is given by the dexterous application of the brush. The gentle art of grooming is not to be taught by theory. Practice is the best teacher. But the novice may learn much by observing the deft methods employed by an expert exhibitor. Mr. Peter Eden, of Manchester, is generally credited with being the actual inventor of the Yorkshire Terrier. He was certainly one of the earliest breeders and owners, and his celebrated Albert was only one of the many admirable speci- mens with which he convinced the public of the charms of this variety of dog. He may have given the breed its first im- pulse, but Mrs. M. A. Foster, of Bradford, was for many years the head and centre of all that pertained to the Yorkshire The Miniature Breeds 313 Terrier, and it was undoubtedly she who raised the variety to its highest point of perfection. Her dogs were invariably good in type. Mr. Mitchell's Westbrook Fred deservedly won many honours, and Mr. Firmstone's Grand Duke and Mynd Damaris, and Mrs. Sinclair's Marcus Superbus, stand high in the estima- tion of expert judges of the breed. Perhaps the most beautiful bitch ever shown was Waveless, the property of Mrs. R. Mar- shall, the owner of another admirable bitch in Little Picture. Mrs. VV. Shaw's Ch. Sneinton Ametliyst is also remembered. At the present time perhaps Mrs. Tilbury's champion, the Miller's Daughter, is the best living specimen of the breed, if that position is not given to Miss O. Saunders' Ch. Tiny Lady Roma. Mr. F. H. Clarke's Tiny Tom and Mrs. Marshall's Little Dot are also of very high merit. The standard of points laid down by the Yorkshire Teirier Club is as follows : General Appearance : That of a long-coated pet dog, the coat hanging quite straight and evenly down each side, a parting extending from the nose to the end of the tail. The animal should be very compact and neat, his carriage being very sprightly ; bearing an air of importance. Although the frame is hidden beneath a mantle of hair, the general outline should be such as to suggest the existence of a vigorous and well-proportioned body. Head : Should be rather small and flat, not too prominent or round in the skull ; rather broad at the muzzle, with a perfectly black nose ; the hair on the muzzle very long, which shoiild be a rich, deep tan, not sooty or grey. Under the chin, long hair, about the same colour as on the crown of the head, which should be a bright, golden tan, and not on any account intermingled with dark or sooty hairs. Hairs on the sides of the head should be very long, of a few shades deeper tan than that on the top of the head, especially about the ear-roots. Eyes : Mediiun in size, dark in colour, having a sharp, in- telligent expression, and placed so as to look directly forward. They should not be prominent. The edges of the eyelids should be dark. Ears : Small, V-shaped, and carried semi-erect, covered with short hair ; colour to be a deep rich tan. Mouth : Good even mouth ; teeth as sound as possible. A dog having lost a tooth or two, through accident or otherwise, is not to disqualify, providing the jaws are even. Body : Very compact, with a good loin, and level on the top of the back. Coat : The hair, as long and as straight as possible (not wavy), should be glossy, like silk (not woolly), extending from the back of the head to the root of the tail ; colour, a bright steel blue, and on no account intermingled with fawn, light or dark hairs. All tan should be darker at the roots than at the middle of the hairs, shading off to a still lighter tan at the tips. Legs : Quite straight, should be of a bright golden tan, well covered with hair, a few shades lighter at the end than at the roots. Feet : As round as possible ; toe-nails black. Tail : Cut to medium length ; with plenty of hair, darker blue than the rest of the body, especially at the end of the tail, which is carried slightly higher than the level of the back. Weight : Divided into two classes ; under 5 lb. and over 5 lb. to 12 lb. Of the larger than 12 lb., of course, one sees many examples in the stieets, kept merely as companions. These retain a 314 The Complete Book of the Dog good deal of the terrier nature, and when properly kept and regularly groomed they are very engaging and desirable. The Toy Poodle. — This much-favoured variety is a re- duced copy of the larger Poodle, with the same points in every particular but that of measurement. It is clipped and groomed in the same fashion, and it has the same properties, but as its height does not exceed 15 inches at the shoulder and its weight is proportionately less, it is obvious that the miniature is a more convenient dog for the house than his cumbrous relative. The task of keeping a full-sized Poodle in good condition is no light one. Consequently Toy Poodles which entail less trouble are popular, and very charming little dogs they are, with their almost human wisdom and their wanning ways. Mrs. Jack Taylor's Ch. Arc Angel is at present the superlative example of the Miniature variety. Miss Brunker has long been prominently associated with both the miniature and the larger Poodle. The team of four illustrated herewith are Chieveley Poodles bred by Miss M. Moorhouse. They are Chieveley Grumps, Chuette, Chuckles and Cheeky Boy. The Miniature Black-and-tan. — Except in the matter of size, the general appearance and qualifications of the Miniature Black-and-tan Terrier should be as nearly like the larger breed as possible, for the standard of points applies to both varieties, excepting that erect, or what are commonly known as tulip ears, of semi-erect carriage, are permissible in the miniatures. The officially recognized weight for the toy variety is given as " under seven pounds," but none of the most prominent present-day winners reach anything like that weight ; some, in fact, are little more than half of it, and the great majority are between 4 lb. and 5 lb. He is certainly not a robust dog, and he has lost much of the terrier boisterousness of character by reason of being pampered and coddled ; but it is a fallacy to suppose that he is necessarily delicate. He requires to be kept warm, but exercise is better for him than eiderdown quilts and silken cushions, and judicious feeding will protect him from the skin diseases to which he is believed to be liable. Under proper treatment he is no more delicate than any other toy dog, and his engaging manners and cleanli- ness of habit ought to place him among the most favoured of lady's pets and lap-dogs. Fhotogiapli I'v Russell. Toy Bullteirier Queen of Zambesi. J'li.'ti'^raf'li ly Klisscli. Italian Circv houmls Rosemead Una and Rosemead Laura. Minialurc I\ii.ilk-> Chieveley Grumps, C. Chuette, C. Chuckles, ami C. Cheeky Boy. Bred bv Miss M. Mooi house. The Miniature Breeds 315 For the technical description of points the reader is re- ferred to the chapter on the larger variety of Black-and-tan Terrier (see p. 212). Toy Bull- terriers. — Of late years Toy Bull-terriers have fallen in popularity. This is a pity, as their lilliputian self- assertion is most amusing. As pets they are most affectionate, excellent as watch-dogs, clever at acquiring tricks, and always cheerful and companionable. They have good noses and will hunt diligently ; but wet weather or thick undergrowth will deter them, and they are too small to do serious harm to the best stocked game preserve. The most valuable are small and very light in weight, and these small dogs usually have " apple-heads." Pony Queen, the former property of Sir Raymond Tyrwhitt Wilson, weighed under 3 lb., but the breed remains " toy " up to 15 lb. When you get a dog with a long wedge-shaped head, the latter in competition with small " apple-headed " dogs always takes the prize, and a slightly contradictory state of affairs arises from the fact that the small dog with an imperfectly shaped head will sell for more money than a dog with a perfectly shaped head which is larger. At present there is a diversity of opinion as to their-points, which are not the same as those of the large Bull-terrier, but more like those of the finer-built Old English Wliite Terrier, par- ticularly in head properties and the shape of eye. The head in the Toy variety is long and flat, wide between the eyes and tapering to the nose, which should be black. Ears erect and bat-like, straight legs and rather distinctive feet ; some people say these are cat-like. Toy Bull-terriers ought to have an alert, gay appearance, coupled with refinement, which re- quires a nice whip tail. The best colour is pure white. A brindle spot is not amiss, and even a brindle dog is admissible, but black marks are wrong. The coat ought to be close and stiff to the touch. Toy Bull-terriers are not delicate as a rule. They require warmth and plenty of exercise in all weathers. Italian Greyhounds. — The most elegant, graceful, and refined of all dogs are the tiny Italian Greyhounds. Their exquisitely delicate lines, their supple movements and beautiful attitudes, their soft large eyes, their charming colouring, their gentle and loving nature, and their scrupulous cleanliness of habit — all these qualities justify the admiration bestowed 3i6 The Complete Book of the Dog upon them as drawing-room pets. They are fragile, it is true — fragile as egg-shell china — not to be handled roughly. But their constitution is not necessarily delicate, and many have been known to live to extreme old age. Miss Mackenzie's Jack, one of the most beautiful of the breed ever known, lived to see his seventeenth birthday, and even then was strong and healthy. Their fragility is more apparent than real, and if they are not exposed to cold or damp, they require less pamper- ing than they usually receive. This cause has been a frequent source of constitutional weakness, and it was deplorably a fault in the Italian Greyhounds of half a century ago. Very few of these beautiful dogs are to be found in the shows, but those that were on exhibition half a generation ago were a joy to look upon. Among the more prominent owners of that period were the Baroness Campbell von Laurentz, whose Rosemead Laura and Una were of superlative merit alike in outline, colour, style, length of head, and grace of action ; Mrs. Florence Scarlett, whose Svelta, Saltarello, and Sola were almost equally perfect ; Mrs. Matthews, the owner of Ch. Signor, the smallest and most elegant of show dogs ; and Mr. Charlwood, who exhibited many admirable specimens, among them Sussex Queen and Sussex Princess. The Italian Greyhound Club of England supplied the following standard of points : General Appearance : A miniature English Greyhound, more slender in all proportions, and of ideal elegance and grace in shape, symmetry, and action. Head : Skull long, flat, and narrow. Muzzle very fine. Nose dark in colour. Ears rose shaped, j^laced well back, soft and delicate, and should touch or nearly touch behind the head. PTie draught, such as : Spirits of ether, 10 to 60 drops ; spirits of chloroform, 5 to 20 drops ; solution of muriate of morphia, 3 to 20 drops ; camphor water a sufficiency. Mix. In less urgent cases of colic a simple dose of castor oil will be found to answer quite as well, and the oil is to be followed by a dose of brandy in hot water. If there be much drum-like swelling of the abdomen, hard rubbing will do good, with a draught propor- tioned to the size of the dog and containing 10 to 60 grains of bicarbonate of soda, 2 to 10 drops of oil of cloves, and 5 to 10 drops of laudanum in camphor water. Constipation is also a very common complaint. It often occurs in the progress of other diseases, but is just as often a separate ailment. Perhaps no complaint to which our canine friends are liable is less understood by the non-professional dog doctor and by dog owners themselves. Often caused by weakness in the coats of the intestine. The exhibition of purgatives can only have a temporary effect in relieving the symptoms, and is certain to be followed by reaction, and consequently by further debihty. Want of exercise and bath common cause. Many dogs have a dry constipated habit, often greatly increased by the bones on which they are fed. This favours the disposition to mange, etc. It produces indigestion, encourages worms, blackens the- teeth, and causes fetid breath. Symptoms. — The stools are hard, usually in large round balls, and defalcation is accomplished \nth great difficulty, the animal often having to try several times before eficcting the act, and this only after the most acute suffering. The faeces are generally covered with white mucus, showing the heat and semi-dry condition of the 332 The Complete Book of the Dog gut. The stool is sometimes so dry as to fall to pieces like so much oatmeal. There is generally also a deficiency of bile in the motions, and, in addition to simple costiveness, we have more or less loss of appetite, with a too pale tongue, dullness, and sleepiness, with slight redness of the conjunctiva. Sometimes constipation alter- nates with diarrhoea ; the food, being improperly commingled with the gastric and other juices, ferments, spoils, and becomes, instead of healthy blood-producing chyme, an irritant purgative. Treat- ment.— Hygienic treatment more than medicinal. Mild doses of castor oil, compound rhubarb pill, or olive oil, may at first be necessary. Sometimes an enema will be required if the medicine will not act. Give oatmeal, rather than flour or fine bread, as the staple of his diet, but a goodly allowance of meat is to be given as well, with cabbage or boiled liver, or even a portion of raw Uver. Fresh au" and exercise in the fields. You may give a bolus before dinner, such as the following : Compound rhubarb pill, i to 5 grains ; quinine, | to 2 grains ; extract of taraxacum, 2 to 10 grains. Mix. Cracks and Chaps. — Commonest on the feet. Perfect clean- liness is absolutely necessary. Condy's fluid, or water reddened with permanganate of potash. The same treatment will do when on the bitch's teats. Boracic lotion to all kinds of cracks. The animal needs cooling medicine or alteratives, such as are found in Spratt's medicine chest. Cystitis, or Inflammation of the Bladder. — May be caused by irritant medicines given internally, or from cold. In bad cases a vet. should be called, as it may be stone or the passage of gravel into the urethra. Symptoms. — The dog is anxious and excited. He pants, whines, and makes frequent efforts to pass his urine, which comes only in drops and driblets, while he cries out with the pain the effort gives him. His appetite fails him, he is feverish, and, if examined, the lower part of the belly will be found swollen and tender to the touch. Just after the dog has made a little water there is ease for a short time, but as soon as the urine collects the pain comes on again. Usually the bowels are affected. Treat- ment.— If a small dog, a hot bath will be found to give great relief. In order to relieve pain and calm excitement, opium must be given in repeated small doses, and the bowels must on no account be neglected, but the rule is not to give any irritant purgative like aloes or black draught. However useful such aperients may be in some disorders and inflammations, they simply mean death in this. Small doses of castor oil may be given if they seem to be needed. N.B. — Diuretics arc to be avoided, but a little cooling mixture ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 333 of mindercrus spirit, i drachm to 4 in camphor water, may be given every four hours. If the water cannot be passed and the belly is swollen, with moaning and evident distress, a qualified veterinary surgeon should be called in, who will no doubt pass the elastic catheter. The use of the catheter should be followed up with nice hot poppy fomentations and a large linseed-meal poultice to the region of the abdomen, and an opium pill may now work wonders, or the morphia suppository of the Pharmacopoeia may be placed in the rectum. Food must be light, tasty, and easily digested, but rather low, especially at first. Drink : milk demulcent, linseed tea, barley water, etc. Deafness. — Sometimes congenital. In such cases it is in- curable. Caused also by accumulation of wax in the ear ; pour a few drops of warm oil in and move the ear gently about. Deaf- ness of old age cannot be cured. Attend to the general health. If fat, reduce diet and avoid all starchy foods. If thin, feed well, exercise, and give Virol. Deformities. — Can only be treated by an expert after careful examination and thought. Destroying Puppies. — ^Drowning, even in warm water, is painful, because lingering. The best plan is the ugliest. Take one up and dash with great force on the stone floor. It is dead at once. N.B. — Never do so before the dam. Destroying Useless Dogs. — The S.P.C.A. recommend shooting in the forehead. I have often counselled the giving of morphia in sufficiently large doses to cause sleep, and then carefully chloro- forming. After all, the strongest prussic acid is the most certain and the quickest, but a vet. only should administer it. Diabetes. — Both that form called mellitus or sugary diabetes and diabetes insipidus are incurable ; the former, at all events. Symptoms. — The earliest synnptom will be excessive diuresis com- bined with inordinate thirst. The coat is harsh and dry and staring, the bowels constipated, the mouth hot and dry, and probably foul. Soon emaciation comes on, and the poor animal wastes rapidly away. Sometimes the appetite fails, but more often it is voracious, especially with regard to flesh meat. The dog is usually treated for worms, and the case made worse. The disease is a very fatal one, and if fairly set in can seldom be kept from running its course onwards to death. Treatment. — Exceedingly unsatisfactory. Ex- perience has found the most benefit accrue from treating canine patients in the same way as human beings suffering similarly. I therefore do not hesitate to order the bran loaf if the animal is worth the trouble, and forbid the use of potatoes, rice, flour, oat- meal, and most vegetables, and feed mostly on flesh, and occasionally 334 The Complete Book of the Dog beef tea and milk. Give from ^ grain up to 3 grains of opium (powdered) and the same quantity of quinine in a bit of Castile soap, twice or thrice daily. You may try Virol and nux vomica. Diarrhoea. — Looseness of the bowels, or purging, is a very common disease among dogs of all ages and breeds. It is often symptomatic of other ailments. In weakly dogs exposure alone will produce it. The weather, too, has much to do with the pro- duction of diarrhoea. In most kennels it is more common in July and August, although it often comes on in the very dead of winter. Puppies, if overfed, will often be seized with this troublesome com- plaint. Among other causes we find the eating of indigestible food, drinking foul or tainted water, too much green food, raw paunches, foul kennels, and damp, draughty kennels. The purging is, of course, the principal symptom, and the stools are either quite liquid or semi-fluid, bOious-looking, dirty-brown or clay-coloured, or mixed with slimy mucus. In some cases they resemble dirty water. Sometimes a little blood will be found in the excrement, owing to congestion of the mucous membrane from liver obstruc- tion. In case there be blood in the stools, a careful examination is always necessary in order to ascertain the real state of the patient. Blood, it must be remembered, might come from piles or polypi, or it might be dysenteric and proceed from ulceration of the rectum and colon. In biUous diarrhoea, with large brown fluid stools and complete loss of appetite, there is much thirst, and in a few days the dog gets rather thin, although nothing like so rapidly as in the emaciation of distemper. The Treatment will depend upon the cause, but as that is generally the presence in the intestine of some irritating matter, we can hardly err by administering a small dose of castor oil, combining with it, if there be much pain, from 5 to 20 or 30 drops of laudanum, or of the solution of the muriate 01 morphia. This in itself will often suffice to cut short an attack. The oil is preferable to rhubarb, but the latter may be tried — the simple, not the compound powder — dose from 10 grains to 2 drachms in bolus. If the diarrhoea should continue next day, proceed cautiously — remember there is no great hurry, and a sudden check to diarrhoea is at times dangerous — to administer dog doses of the aromatic chalk and opium powder, or give the following medicine three times a day : Compound powdered catechu, i grain to 10 ; powdered chalk with opium, 3 grains to 30. Mix. If the diarrhoea still continues, good may accrue from a trial of the following mLxture : Laudanum, 5 to 30 drops ; dUute sulphuric acid, 2 to 15 drops ; in camphor water. This after every Uquid motion, or, if the motions may not be observed, three times a day. If blood should appear in the stools give the following : Kino powder, i to 10 grains ; powder ABC Guide to Canine Ailments :>:>:) ipecac, J to 3 grains ; powdered opium, i^ to 2 grains. This may be made into a bolus with any simple extract, and given three times a day. The food is of importance. The diet should be changed ; the food requires to be of a non-stimulating kind, no meat being allowed, but milk and bread, sago, arrowTOot, or rice, etc. The drink either pure water, with a pinch or two of chlorate and nitrate of potash in it, or patent barley-water if the dog will take it. Disinfectants. — These are useful in many ways, and we have good ones, such as solution of carbohc acid, Jeyes', Sanitas, Izal, Pearson's, etc. But science has now proved that the great bulk of so-called disinfectants are simply deodorizers, and have no germ-kiUing power at all. Moreover, their use often does harm, because people imagine they can take the place of cleanHness. Garden soap and boiling water should be used for all kennels, the disinfectant to be used afterwards. Distemper. — Although more than one hundred years have elapsed since distemper was first imported to this country from France, a great amount of misunderstanding still prevails regarding its true nature and origin. The disease came to us with a bad name, for the French themselves deemed it incurable. In this country the old-fashioned plan of treatment was wont to be the usual rough remedies — emetics, purgatives, the seton, and the lancet. Faihng in this, specifics of all sorts were eagerly sought for and tried, and are unfortunately still beheved in to a very great extent. Distemper has a certain course to run, and in this disease Nature seems to attempt the elimination of the poison through the secre- tions thrown out by the naso-pharj^ngeal mucous membrane. Our chief difl&culty Hes in the complications. We may, and often do, have the organs of respiration attacked ; we have sometimes congestion of the liver, or mucous inflammation of the bile ducts, or some lesion of the brain or nervous structures, combined with epilepsy, convulsions, or chorea. Distemper is also often compU- cated with severe disease of the bowels, and at times with an affec- tion of the eyes. Causes. — Whether it be that the distemper virus, the poison seedhng of the disease, really originates in the kennel, or is the result of contact of one dog with another, or whether the poison floats to the kennel on the wings of the wind, or is carried there on a shoe or the point of a walking-stick, the following facts ought to be borne in mind : (i) Anything that debilitates the body or weakens the nervous system paves the way for the distemper poison ; (2) the healthier the dog the more power does he possess to resist con- tagion ; (3) when the disease is epizootic, it can often be kept at bay by proper attention to diet and exercise, frequent change of 336 The Complete Book of the Dog kennel straw, and perfect cleanliness ; (4) the predisposing causes which have come more immediately under notice are debility, cold, damp, starvation, filthy kennels, unwholesome food, impure air, and grief. Scrupulous avoidance of these causes is the only means of prevention. Inoculation has been tried ; but no serum has yet been discovered which can be depended upon, so far as I know. Dogs may take distemper at any age ; the most common time of life is from the fifth till the eleventh or twelfth month. The worst form is called Stuttgart distemper. I do not believe that it is curable. It is terribly catching, and as a disease it is comparable only with the most virulent form of typhus fever. In ordinary distemper, however, there is always hope of saving your dog. But everything depends upon good nursing. Symptoms. — There is, first and foremost, a period of latency or of incubation, in which there is more or less of dullness and loss of appetite, and this ghdes gradually into a state of feverishness. The fever may be ushered in with chills and shivering. The nose now becomes hot and dry, the dog is restless and thirsty, and the conjunctiva of the eyes will be found to be considerably injected. Sometimes the bowels are at first constipated, but they are more usually irregular. Sneezing will also be frequent, and in some cases cough, dry and husky at first. The temperature should be taken, and if there is a rise of two or three degrees the case should be treated as distemper, and not as a common cold. From the earhest stages there is a peculiar " mousy " smell. At the com- mencement there is but little exudation from the eyes and nose, but as the disease advances this symptom will become more marked, being clear at first. So, too, will another symptom which is par- tially diagnostic of the malady, namely, increased heat of body combined with a rapid falling off in flesh, sometimes, indeed, pro- ceeding quickly on to positive emaciation. As the disease creeps downwards and inwards along the air-passages, the chest gets more and more affected, the discharge of mucus and pus from the nostrils more abundant, and the cough loses its dry character, becoming moist. The discharge from the eyes is simply mucus and pus, but if not constantly dried away will gum the inflamed lids together ; that from the nostrils is not only purulent, but often mixed with dark blood. The appetite is now clean gone, and there are often vomiting and occasional attacks of diarrhoea. Now in mild cases we may look for some abatement of the symp- toms about the fourteenth day. The fever gets less, inflammation decreases in the mucous passages, and appetite is restored as one of the first signs of returning health. More often, however, the disease becomes comphcatcd. ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 337 Diagnosis. — The diagnostic symptoms are the severe catarrh, combined not only with fever, but speedy emaciation. Pneumonia is a very Ukely corapUcation, and a very dangerous one. There is great distress in breathing, the animal panting rapidly. The countenance is anxious, the pulse small and frequent, and the extremities cold. The animal would fain sit up on his haunches, or even seek to get out into the fresh air, but sickness, weakness, and prostration often forbid his movements. If the ear or stethoscope be applied to the chest, the characteristic signs of pneumonia will be heard ; these are sounds of moist crepitations, etc. Bronchitis is probably the most common complication ; in fact, it is always present, except in very mild cases. The cough becomes more severe, and often comes on in tearing paroxysms, causing sick- ness and vomiting. The breathing is short and frequent, the mouth hot and filled with viscid saliva, while very often the bowels are constipated. If the hver becomes involved, we shall very soon have the jaundiced eye and the yellow skin. Diarrhcea is another very common complication. We have frequent purging, and, maybe, sickness and vomiting. Fits of a convulsive chai'acter are frequent. Epilepsy is sometimes seen, owing, no doubt, to degeneration of the nerve centres caused by blood-poisoning. There are many other complications, and skin complaints are a common sequel. Treatment. — This consists firstly in doing all in our power to guide the specific catarrhal fever to a safe termination ; and, secondly, in watching for and combating compHcations. WTienever we see a young dog aiUng, losing appetite, exhibiting catarrhal symptom.?", and getting thin, ^\ith a rise in temperature, we should not lose an hour. If he be an indoor dog, find him a good bed in a clean, well- ventilated apartment, free from lumber and free from dirt. If it be summer, have all the windows out or opened ; if winter, a little fire ^^^ll be necessary, but have half the window opened at the same time ; only take precautions against his lying in a draught. Fresh air in cases of distemper, and, indeed, in fevers of all kinds, cannot be too highly extoUed. The more rest the dog has the better ; he must be kept free from excitement, and care must be taken to guard him against cold and wet if he goes out of doors to obey the calls of Nature. The most perfect cleanUness must be enjoined, and dis- infectants used, such as permanganate of potash, carboUc acid, Pearson's, or Izal. If the sick dog, on the other hand, be one of a kennel of dogs, then quarantine must be adopted. The hospital should be quite removed from the vicinity of all other dogs, and as soon as the animal is taken from the kennel the latter should be thoroughly cleansed and disinfected, and the other dogs kept warm and dry, well fed, and moderately exercised, w 338 The Complete Book of the Dog Food and Drink. — For the first three or four days let the food be light and easily digested. In order to induce the animal to take it, it should be as palatable as possible. For small dogs you cannot have anything better than milk porridge. At all events, the dog must, if possible, be induced to eat ; he must not be " horned " unless there be great emaciation ; he must not over-eat, but what he gets must be good. As to drink, dogs usually prefer clean cold water, and we cannot do harm by mixing therewith a little plain nitre. Medicine. — Begin by giving a simple dose of castor oil, just enough and no more than will clear out the bowels by one or two motions. Drastic purgatives, and medicines such as mercury, jalap, aloes, and podophyUin, cannot be too strongly condemned. For very small Toy dogs I should not recommend even oil itself, but manna — I drachm to 2 drachms dissolved in milk. By simply getting the bowels to act once or twice, we shall have done enough for the first day, and have only to make the dog comfortable for the night. On the next day begin with a mixture such as the following : Solution of acetate of ammonia, 30 drops to 120 ; sweet spirits of nitre, 15 drops to 60 ; salicylate of soda, 2 grains to 10. Thrice daily in a httle camphor water. If the cough be very troublesome and the fever docs not run very high, the following may be substituted for this on the second or third day : Syrup of squills, 10 drops to 60 ; tincture of henbane, 10 drops to 60 ; sweet spirits of nitre, 10 drops to 60, in camphor water. A few drops of dilute hydrochloric acid should be added to the dog's drink, and two teaspoonfuls (to a quart of water) of the chlorate of potash. This makes an excellent fever drink, especially if the dog can be got to take decoction of barley — barley-water — instead of plain cold water, best made of Keen and Robinson's patent barley. If there be persistent sickness and vomiting, the medicine must be stopped for a time. Small boluses of ice frequently admin- istered will do much good, and doses of dilute prussic acid, from I to 4 drops in a little water, will generally arrest the vomiting. If constipation be present, we must use no rough remedies to get rid of it. A little raw meat cut into smcdl pieces — minced, in fact — or a small portion of raw liver, may be given if there be Uttlc lever ; if there be fever, we are to trust for a time to injections of plain soap-and- water. Diarrhoea, although often a troublesome symptom, is, it must be remembered, a salutary one. Unless, therefore, it becomes excessive, do not interfere ; if it does, give ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 339 the simple chalk mixture three times a day, but no longer than is needful. The discharge from the mouth and nose is to be wiped away with a soft rag — or, better still, some tow, which is afterwards to be burned — wetted with a weak solution of carbolic. The forehead, eyes, and nose may be fomented two or three times a day with moderately hot water with great advantage. It is not judicious to wet a long-haired dog much, but a short- haired one may have the chest and throat well fomented several times a day, and well nibbed dry afterwards. Heat applied to the chests of long-haired dogs by means of a fiat iron will also effect good, and the hot-water bottle is comforting. The following is an excellent tonic : Sulphate of quinine, I to 3 grains ; powdered rhubarb, 2 to 10 grains ; extract of taraxacum, 3 to 20 grains ; make a bolus. Thrice daily. During convalescence good food, Virol, Spratt's invahd food and invahd biscuit, moderate exercise, fresh air, and protection from cold. These, with an occasional mild dose of castor oil or rhubarb, are to be our sheet-anchors, I find no better tonic than the tablets of Phosferine. One quarter of a tablet thrice daily, rolled in tissue paper, for a Toy dog, up to two tablets for a dog of Mastiff size. Sherley's supply preparations and medicaments suited to the various stages of distemper, and Spratt's have a distemper cure which can be relied upon. But I repeat that much depends upon good nursing. Dysentery. — Most troublesome and frequent stools, with great straining, the dejections are liquid, or hquid and scybalous, with mucus and more or less of blood. Frequent micturition, the water being scanty and high-coloured. The dog is usually dull and rest- less, and there is more or less of fever, with great thirst. If the anus be examined it will be found red, sore, and puffy. Treatment. — The animal should be properly housed, and well protected from damp and cold, which in dogs very often produce the disease. Give a dose of castor oil with a few drops, according to the dog's strength, of the liquid extract of opium ; follow this up in about two hours with an enema or two of gruel, to assist its operation. Much good may be done by hot fomentations to the abdomen, and by hnseed-meal poultices, in which a tablcspoonful or two of mustard has been mixed, to the epigastrium, followed by a full dose of the hquid extract of opium. This may be followed by from 5 grains to 30 of the trisnitrate of bismuth, in conjunction with from J grain to 2 grains of opiirni, thrice a day. Judicious diet is of great importance in the treatment of this disease. It must be 340 The Complete Book of the Dog very light, nutritious, and easily digestible, such as jeUies, bread- and-milk, cream, eggs, patent barley, Bovril, with an allowance of wine if deemed necessary. The drink may be pure water, frequently changed, barley-water, or other demulcent drinks. Dyspepsia. — Usually called Itidigestion. A dog is said to be off his feed. It is one of the commonest of all complaints, and is the forerunner of many serious chronic ailments. In fact, it may be said to be a symptom more than an actual disease. The causes are : Improper or irregular feeding ; over-feeding ; want of exercise of a pleasant recreative kind ; want of fresh air ; food of a too dainty kind ; general irregularity of management, and the foul air of kennels. Symptoms. — ^The dog does not appear to thrive, his appetite is either lost entirely or capricious ; the eye is more in- jected than it should be, and the nose dry. There is generally some irritabihty of the skin, and he is out of condition altogether. Treat- ment.— Begin by giving a dose of opening medicine, such as castor oil and buckthorn syrup, from 2 drachms to i ounce of this mixture. Lower the diet for a day or two, and give twice a day from 5 to 15 grains of the bicarbonate of potash in water, with from 5 to 20 grains of Gregory's powder. A milk diet alone may be tried. For chronic dyspepsia the treatment resolves itself very easily into the hygienic and the medicinal, and you may expect very httle benefit from the latter if you do not attend to the former. Begin the treatment of chronic indigestion, then, with a review of the dog's mode of life and feeding, and change it all if there is a chance of doing good. The following is a safe and simple tonic pill, one to be given twice daily : Sulphate of quinine, ^ to 3 grains ; sulphate of iron, ^ to 6 grains ; extract of taraxacum, 3 grains to 10. Make into a bolus. Dyspepsia, Acute (or Gastritis). — Inflammation of the stomach is a very fatal and a very painful disease in the dog, though happily somewhat rare. It is supposed by most authorities to originate as a primary disease, but it is more often the result of an irritant poison or the administration by ignorant kennelmen of excessive doses of tartar emetic. I doubt if it ever presents itself as a primary disease. Symptoms. — There is vomiting, great thirst, high fever ; the animal stretches himself on his belly in the very coolest comer he can find, panting and in great pain. Enteritis generally accom- panies bad cases ; the ears are cold, and the limbs as well. Dark gramous blood may be vomited, or pure blood itself, from the rupture of some artery. And thus the poor dog may linger for some days in a most pitiful condition. Finally, he is convulsed and dies, or coma puts a milder termination to his sufferings. ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 341 Treatment of milder forms of gastritis. Recipe : Dilute hydro- cyanic acid, I to 10 drops ; laudanum, 5 to 25 drops ; solution of chloroform, 2 drachms to i ounce. This to be given as a draught. Hot fomentations after\^'a^ds to the region of the stomach may give relief, and the strength must be kept up by nutritive enemata — beef tea mixed in cream. In simple cases 3 to 30 grains of the trisnitrate of bismuth may be given a quarter of an hour before each meal. This is good also in irritative dyspepsia, mixed with a little of the bicarbonate of soda. Ear, Internal Canker. — This is a distressing chronic in- flammation of the ear to which many dogs are hable. The in- flammation is in the inside or lining membrane of the ear, and often causes partial deafness. The first sjTiiptom, or sign rather, we see, is the poor animal shaking his head, generally to one side. If you look into the ear now, you may find a little redness. There is also a bad odour, ^\^len the disease has fairly set in, the symptoms are running of dark matter, mingled with cerumen from the ear, frequent head-shakings, dullness, capricious appetite, and very often a low state of the general health. Treat- ment.— ^Whenever you fine a dog showing the first signs of canker, take the case in hand at once. Do not begin by pouring strong lotions into his ear. The ear is such a very tender organ, disease and inflammation are so easily induced that harsh interference is positively sinful. Begin by giving the dog a dose of some mild aperient, either simple castor oil, or, better still, from i to 4 drachms of Epsom salts, with quinine in it. Let the dog have good nourish- ing diet, but do not let him over-eat. Let him have green, well- boiled vegetables in his food to cool him, a nice warm bed, exercise, but not to heat him, and try to make him in every way comfortable. Then give him a tonic pill of sulphate of quinine, sulphate of iron, and dandelion extract. Fomentation is all that is needed in the early stages. Place cotton wadding gently in each ear, lest one diop gets in to increase the irritation ; then apply your fomentation to both sides of the ear at once, using four flannels or four woollen socks altern- ately. But if the dog has been neglected in the beginning, and the discharge has been allowed to increase and become purulent, then local applications will be needed. Previously to pouring in the lotion, be careful to wash out the matter from the dog's ears as gently as possible with a weak solution of permanganate of potash. A good astringent lotion for canker is an infusion of strong green tea, used warm, or a lotion of dried alum, from i grain to 5 to I ounce of distilled water ; or nitrate of silver, sulphate of copper, or sulphate of cadmium, which are used in the same proportions. Lastly, but not least, we have the liquor plumbi subacetatis, 10 to 342 The Complete Book of the Dog 20 drops to I ounce of water, to which a httle glycerine may be added, but greasy mixtures should, I think, be avoided. The canker cap may be used, but not constantly, as it heats the head too much and adds to the trouble. I- Ear, External Canker. — A scurfy condition of the flap, the edge of which may be sore, ragged, and scaly. The flap also be- comes thickened. Such a thing ought to be seen to in time. When the ear is buried in long hair, probably matted, have the latter removed with scissors. Perfect cleanliness is the next thing to secure, and for this reason have the ear well, though gently, washed with warm water and a little mild soap. Then apply zinc ointment or Cadum ointment. It may be necessary to touch the sores occasionally with bluestone, or a 20-grain solution of nitrate of silver. The canker cap must imperatively be worn, and in order to give the ears a better chance of healing the flap may be folded back over the head and bound in that position. The strictest regulations as to diet and exercise must be enforced, but the dog must be protected from rain or other wet, and not permitted to overheat himself. Abscesses of the flap of the ear are caused by blows or accident. If the use of zinc ointment does not heal it the abscess must be opened by a free incision and a little lint inserted, wetted in water, to which a few drops of carbolic solution have been added. The wound will heal if kept perfectly clean and softened by the zinc ointment or Zam-Buk. Ear, Inflammation of the Flap. — Should yield readily to washing with permanganate of potash lotion. If badly cut or torn in the bush or in fighting the ear should be neatly stitched and dressed with antiseptic. Eczema. — Vide Skin Diseases. Emaciation. — Always a bad sign, but taken by itself it is not diagnostic. Very rapid in some fevers, such as distemper, more slow in kidney or liver ailments and in worms. It is, however, not a good thing to conclude quickly that a dog has worms or anything else, such as nephritis. A skilled vet. should examine very carefully. Enemas. — Sometimes given for the relief of great constipation. The syringe should be the ordinary balloon-shape and proportioned to the size of the dog, holding from 2 ounces to a pint. Warm soapy water is as good as anything, but see that the syringe is completely filled, else air will be thrown up. Oil both the anus and the tube, and after the operation keep the dog at rest on straw for some little time until the matter is hkely to be softened. Warm olive oil, '^orj glycerine and water, is sometimes used. Not much is required, but in all cases the syringe must be full. ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 343 Enteritis. — Vide Bowels, Inflammation oi*. Epilepsy. — Vide Fits. Eyeball, Dislocation of. — First clean the eye with lukewarm water and very soft sponge, simply squeezing the water over it, freeing it from all dirt. Then the eyeUds must be held widely apart by an assistant while you exert gentle but firm pressure with clean, oiled fingers, and the eyeball will sUp back into its place. But this must be done at once, or much mischief will ensue. Eye Diseases. — See Amaurosis ; Cataract. Eyes : Disease of the Haws. — These get red, enlarged, and hardened. They may sometimes curl outwards. Very unsightly, and if persistent must be cut, but only a vet. can do this safely. This trouble with the haw is more common among Bloodhounds, Newfoundlands, Pugs, and Bulls. Eyes, Inflammation of. — However caused, this must be treated on general principles. If acute the animal should be kept for some days in a darkened room, and as much at rest as possible. Low diet, milk, beef tea or Bovril, and slops. Spratt's invaUd food and invalid biscuits after the inflammation has subsided. Bowels to be opened with the castor oil and syrup of buckthorn mixture, and kept open with a little raw liver. Bathing thrice daily, or oftener, with cold water, will do good, and after a few days use eye-drops, put in with a camel-hair brush (i grain of sulphate of zinc to i ounce of water, or 3 grains of powdered alum to the same quantity). A borax eye-wash might be used, or a grain of nitrate of silver to the ounce of water. In convalescence feed well and often. A little raw meat, soup, milk, eggs, and Virol. No cod-liver oil ; this is apt to disagree, especially with Toy dogs. Don't expose to high winds or wet for some weeks. Eyes, Sore. — The trouble is generally in the eyelids, which may be ulcerated. The eyes themselves are congested and the hds sometimes swollen, and matter discharges. Give purgatives, lessen diet, no dainties. A httle citrine ointment or lanoUne, to prevent eyes sticking together, and during the day eye-drops. Eyes, Weeping. — A vet. only should see and treat, else an abscess may form, as the lachrymal ducts are generally closed up. Japanese and Pekingese are more subject to watery eyes than are the native British breeds. Feet, Sore. — Perfect cleanUness, washing every night. Clean bed, after anointing with Zam-Buk. If sores around the nails, dog to wear socks. Zinc or alum or borax lotion. Cleanliness to be thorough. Fits. — VVliatever be the cause, they are very alarming. In 344 The Complete Book of the Dog puppies they are called Convulsions, and resemble epileptic fits. Keep the dog very quiet, but use httle force, simply enough to keep him from hurting himself. Keep him out of the sun, or in a dark- ened room. Wlien he can swallow give from 2 to 20 grains (accord- ing to size) of bromide of potassium in a httle camphor water thrice daily for a few days. Only milk food. Keep quiet. The epileptic fit, common after distemper, is easily known. Sudden attack, the dog falls, and is unconscious, with frothing at mouth and champing of the jaws. Treatment. — Just keep him quiet and prevent his injuring himself. A whiff or two of chloroform if it continues long. Then the same treatment as for puppies in fits, but the dose to be bigger. No occasion for alarm, but the medicine must be con- tinued for weeks. Afterwards give from a quarter to a whole tablet of Phosferine thrice daily. Great care in diet is needed, and this should never be too stimulating, but nourishing and simple. Fleas. — Washing with Spratt's medicated soap. Extra clean kennels. Dusting with Keating's, and afterwards washing. This may not kill the fleas, but it drives them off. Take the dog on the grass while dusting, and begin along the spine. Never do it in the house. Foods for Sick Dogs. — Do not forcibly cram the dog. A spoonful taken naturally is better than ten forced. The latter exhausts the dog and worries liim terribly. Little and often should be the rule. Milk diet ranks highest, but it should have eggs in it and not be too sweet. Rabbit or chicken broth, with the meat finely cut up. Liver boiled is a dainty that few dogs refuse, but it is to be used with caution. Grilled sweetbreads. For Toy dogs the milk should be peptonized (Fairchild's — any chemist). Robin- son's patent barley. Fish, but not the oily kinds. Raw meat minced and without the fat in early convalescence. Bovril also ; then Virol to pick up the strength and substance, and Spratt's invahd food and the invahd biscuits. If one rings the changes on all these, and nurses well without fidgeting the patient, the dog ought to do well. Gastritis. — See Dyspepsia. Genital Organs. — ^There are few troubles of the genital organs that need attention in either dog or bitch. What is called Balanitis is a shght running of pus from the organ of the male. The general health needs seeing to, and the feeding must be carefully regulated. The dog must not have dainties, nor be pampered. Cleanliness of all surroundings. If much discharge, syringing once a day with nitrate of silver lotion, i grain to the ounce ; or boracic acid, 3 grains to the ounce. Prolapse of cither vagina or uterus needs the attention of a vet. ; but he must be a skilled one, for an ignorant ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 345 man has been known to take such protrusion for a tumour and roughly operate. Gleet. — For these and all other such troubles it is best and safest to call in a vet. ; but good feeding and perfect cleanhness of surroundings will always prevent such ailments. Goitre, or Bronchocele. — A swelhng of the thyroid gland, in front of the larynx. It may come on rapidly in puppies, to whom it may be fatal. In older dogs more slowly. Friction with a collar may cause it in some, and it may cause great difficulty in breathing, brain trouble and death. Bulldogs seem to be especially subject to this complaint. If in a puppy, and coming on suddenly, hot fomentations will do good, and, indeed, there is little more to be done. In old dogs, Terriers and Mastiffs, from ^ to 4 grains each of the iodide bromide of potassium thrice daily, with a bicar- bonate of iron pill, or the syrup of iodide of iron — suitable doses. Locally, rubbing in the official ointment of iodide. Cut the hair short. After swelling is reduced, extract of milk and Virol after each meal. Harvest Bugs. — ^These are a species of fleas or jiggers common in dry grass and vegetables of many kinds. They are so small as to be seldom visible, but they burrow under the skin and cause intolerable itching. The application of the ordinary Uquor ammonia may afford rehef, and the dog should be washed and a httle oil rubbed in afterwards. Hsematuria. — Blood in the urine. Another disease which the layman should not attempt to treat, as it may arise from stone in the bladder. Vide Cystitis. Hepatitis (Inflammation of the Liver). — Symptoms. — As we should naturally expect, we will find aU the symptoms of inflamma- tory fever, with some degree of swelling in the region of the Hver, and considerable pain and tenderness. This pain is often manifest when the dog gets up suddenly to seek the open air. He will frequently be found lying on his chest in dark corners, on cold stones, perhaps, and panting. His eyes are heavy and duU, his coat stares, he is dull himself, is frequently sick, with loss of appe- tite, and very high temperature of body. About the second or third day jaundice supervenes. Very high-coloured and scanty urine is another symptom, and often there is dyspnoea, especially indicative of inflammation of the upper portion of the hver. The bowels are constipated, and of the colour of clay. The disease soon produces emaciation, and often dropsy of the belly. Treat- ment.— Subdue the fever by rest, cold water to drink, with a httle chlorate of potash in it. A dose or two of mindererus spirit and sweet nitre. If ailment not complicated with or the result of dis- 346 The Complete Book of the Dog temper, give after a day or two a pill at night of from 2 to 20 grains of Barbadoes aloes, 3 to 30 grains of extract of taraxacum, in a bolus, followed up in the morning by a dose of sulphate of soda and magnesia, with a little nitre. Give from 3 to 15 grains of Dover's powder thrice daily. In very acute cases a large blister will be needed to the right side. Mustard poultices, hot fomen- tations, and a large linseed-meal poultice will be sufficient in sub- acute cases, and a little mustard may well be added to the poultice. When you have succeeded in subduing the symptoms, if there be much yellowness of the skin, combined with constipation or scanty faeces, give the following thrice a day : Powdered ipecac, ^ to 5 grains ; extract of taraxacum, 3 to 15 grains. The food, which was at first sloppy and non-stimulating, must now be made more nourishing ; and good may be done by rubbing the abdomen with a strong stimulating liniment of ammonia, while a wet compress is to be applied around the belly, the coat having been previously wetted with water well acidulated with diluted nitro-hydro- chloric acid, the compress being wrung through the same solution. Great care must be taken on recovery with the dog's diet, and moderate exercise only should at first be allowed, and tonics administered. Husk. — A form of bronchitis, requiring similar treatment. It is also associated with derangement of the stomach. Worms are often the originating cause. Indigestion. — Vide Dyspepsia. Irritation of Skin. — Find out the cause. It may be from parasites, lice, fleas, ticks, or harvest bugs. Washing and perfect cleanliness of all surroundings. Fresh bedding for outdoor dogs. Washing with mild but good dog soap. Jaundice. — Sometimes called the Yellows, from the peculiar hue of the skin and the eyes. It may be caused by congestion of the liver, often a result of the complications of distemper, or by a sudden chill, or by the dog's having been allowed to stand in the wet. Obstruction of the bile duct by the passing of a gall- stone is another cause, or the duct may be blocked by the entrance of a round worm. Jaundice may come on with dullness and loss of appetite, staring coat, dry nose, and heat on top of the head. Treatment. — Smear the belly with belladonna liniment, then apply hot fomentations and poultices to the region of the liver. Give also from 2 to 10 or 20 grains of chloral hydrate and repeat the dose if necessary. Wlien the pain has abated give an aloes bolus at night, and, in the morning a draught containing sulphate of soda and sulphate of magnesia, from \ drachm to 3 drachms of each in water. Afterwards, light, nutritious and easily digested food ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 347 and tonics of iron and quinine, with plenty of food and moderate exercise. Kidneys. — See Nephritis. Lactation. — The bitch's milk may be deficient. Give her Puppilac or plenty of creamy cow's milk to drink, mixed and thickened with com flour ; also Robinson's patent barley. Massage to the breasts. If there is a flow of milk from the teats of a bitch who is not in whelp, with painful swollen glands, milking may be needed twice a day, but no violence must be used. Rub the breasts with a little brandy, and with belladonna liniment, and give castor- oil. Afterwards liver to keep the bowels open. Never neglect such a condition, else tumours may form. Laryngitis, or Inflammation of the Organ of Voice. — This may be acute or chronic, the former sometimes the result of injury or extension of inflammation of throat, as in colds. There may be a good deal of effusion and swelhng. If the dog seems in much pain and is making strange noises and attempts to vomit, better send for the vet. ; meanwhile fomentations with large hot poultices will do much good. Open bowels and put on low diet. Quiet and rest, with ice-cooled water to drink. In the chronic form a harsh dry cough, with hacking and evident pain. This form may or may not be infectious, but the dog should be kept by himself anyhow. Good nursing is needed, and, if a thin-coated dog, a jacket had better be worn. Open the bowels and give a cough mixture. Lice. — Found mostly on long-haired dogs who have been allowed to sleep out on dirty straw. The lice are hatched from nits, which we find clinging in rows, and very tenaciously too, to the hairs. The insects themselves are more difficult to find, but they are on puppies sometimes in thousands. To destroy them I have tried several plans. Oil is very effectual, and has safety to recommend it. Common sweet oil is as good as any, and you may add a httle oil of anise and some sublimed sulphur, which will increase the effect. Quassia water may be used to damp the coat. The matted portions of a long-haired dog's coat must be cut off with scissors, for there the lice often lurk. The oil dressing will not kill the nits, so that vinegar must be used. After a few days the dressing must be repeated, and so on three or four times. To do any good, the whole of the dog's coat must be drenched in oil, and the dog washed with good dog soap and warm water twelve hours afterwards. Liver. — See Sluggish Liver and Hepatitis ; also Jaundice. Lock-jaw (Tetanus). — Seldom met with in dogs,lbut it is a most terrible complaint, often called'^ Rabies by the ignorant. 348 The Complete Book of the Dog I question the utility of forcing the jaws open. Sedatives, such as hydrate of chloral, 2 to 12 grains, with 5 to 12 grains of bromide of potassium in plenty of water, may be given thrice daily. Liquid nourishment only, beef tea, eggs, milk, and Bovril. Send for skilled vet. Lumbago. — Pain, stiffness, semi-loss of power in hind-legs. Stimulating embrocations, ammonia and turpentine, application of hot iron over flannel. Bandage to be worn. Otherwise treat as for rheumatism. Mange. — See paragraphs under Skin Diseases. Meningitis. — Inflanmiation of the brain is a disease we find sometimes among puppies, especially if overfed and excited by too much exercise in the sun. It may be caused by worms as well as the poison of distemper. The symptoms are fits, convulsions, whining or moaning, great heat of head, and a rise in the temper- ature of several degrees. Treatment. — Seek the assistance of a skilled vet. as quickly as possible. If one cannot be had, keep the animal in a quiet, cool, darkened apartment, and give only the hghtest of nourishment, milk, beef tea, milk-and-egg mixture, Lactol, and put ice to the head for fifteen minutes at a time. Milk Troubles. — See Lactation. Mouth, Ailments of. — ^The mouth of the dog is one of the most important portions of his anatomy, important to both himself and his owner. The teeth of a young dog, and, indeed, of any dog that has been properly cared for and correctly fed, are beautifully white and pearly, one reason for this being that the crown, or exposed portion of the tooth is covered with enamel, not cementum. The gums are hard and sohd to the touch, and the extremely mobile tongue, the soft palate, the hps, and the opening to the gullet are beautifully adapted for the fulfilment of their functions. It is most important that they should be kept in healthy condition, for upon them depends the dog's own health. It is essential for the purposes of sport and defence, as well as for health and appearance, that a dog's teeth should be properly seen to. Loose and carious teeth are of very frequent occurrence, often existing as one of the s^TTiptoms of either dyspepsia or intestinal worms, more especially in pampered pets, who are allowed to eat what and when they choose. As a rule, puppies shed their milk-teeth without any trouble, but the milk-teeth, after getting loose, sometimes get fixed again. This is a matter that wants looking to, for the presence of milk-teeth often deflects and renders irregular the growing permanent teeth. Whenever, then, you find a milk-tooth loose, try to extract it ; this can generally be done by the finger and thumb covered with the comer of a handkerchief. If, however, ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 349 the tooth has been allowed to remain so long in the jaw as to become refixed, its extraction becomes rather more difficult, and requires instrumental assistance. After extracting the tooth touch the gums with a solution of tincture of myrrh and water, equal parts. As your dog grows up, if you want him to retain his dental apparatus to a goodly old age, you must trust to regular and wholesome feeding, and never permit him to carry stones, nor to indulge in the filthy habit of chewing wood. For show dogs powdered char- coal should be used to clean the teeth, with a moderately hard brush, but tartar should never be allowed to remain on the teeth of any dog one values. It ought to be scraped off, or it will give rise to disease. Mouth, Canker of. — Symptoms. — These are seldom noticed until the disease is pretty far advanced, and a sweUing is formed on the dog's jaw, beneath or over the carious tooth. This swelling discharges either pus and blood or thin effusion. The discharge is offensive. There is pain, as evinced by the unwilhngness of the dog to have his mouth examined or the jaw touched. If neglected there may come a nasty fungus-looking growth. Treatment. — Attention must first be directed to the teeth, and any carious tooth or portion of a carious tooth must be extracted. This operation will probably have to be performed after the dog has been placed under the influence of an anaesthetic, and therefore he must be taken to a skilled vet., unless, indeed, he can be securely held and his mouth kept open by aid of an assistant and any means at your command. The disease must then be treated on general principles. If there is proud flesh, blue-stone must be used, or the sohd nitrate of silver. If only xilceration and foetid discharge, use a wash of Condy's fluid (i drachm to 3 in a pint of water), and the alum and myrrh wash (10 grains of alum and i drachm of tincture of myrrh to I ounce of water) ought to be used several times a day, by means of a rag or bit of sponge tied to the end of a stick. Attention must be paid to the general health, and especially to the state of the stomach. Give an occasional dose of oil and buckthorn. Mouth, Foul, is a condition of the canine mouth very often seen. The highest-bred dogs are the most subject to it, and among these it is more frequently seen among household pets. Examina- tion of the mouth reveals, first, a very obnoxious breath, the gums are swollen, may be ulcerated at the edges, but at all events bleed with the shghtest touch. Some of the teeth may be loose or decayed, but invariably even the sound ones are encrusted with tartar. Treatment. — Begin by thoroughly cleansing and scahng the teeth ; this done, use a wash — ^water well reddened with permanganate of potash. The teeth are to be cleansed every morning with vinegar 350 The Complete Book of the Dog and water. The only medicine needful will be an aloetic aperient once or twice a week, with a dinner pill. Quinine, | to 3 grains ; powdered rhubarb and ginger, of each 2 to 5 grains ; extract of taraxacum, sufficient to make a bolus. The feeding must be altered for the better. If the dog is fat and gross, meat, and especially sugar and fat, must be prohibited. Put him on oatmeal porridge and milk, or Spratt's cake. If lean and poor, an allowance of meat must be given, or the thirty-per-cent. Spratt's cake, and also Virol twice a day. Let the drink be pure water or butter-milk. Nephritis, or Inflammation of the Kidney. — Sometimes called acute Bright's disease. It is a very serious disease, and somewhat difficult for the layman to diagnose, so that if it be even suspected, a vet. should be called in. The symptoms are shivering, a staring coat and a general dejected appearance. There is thirst, fever, a hard, quick pulse, and perhaps sickness and vomiting. Stiffness and pain in the region of the loins, with some degree of tenderness on pressure : sometimes suppression of urine, and the urine if passed may contain blood, or even pus. Bowels constipated. Delirium may occur, succeeded by coma and death. Treatment. — Give the kidneys all possible rest, and try to reduce the inflammation and get rid of at least a portion of the urea of the blood by the bowel. This may be done by purgatives, podophyllin, and jalap, or elaterium may be tried. Resin of jalap, i grain to 5 ; podophylUn, iV grain to 2 grains ; extract of hyoscyamus, i grain to 5. Mix ; make one piU, to be given every morning. Plenty of hot poppy fomentations must be applied to the loins, followed by large Unseed and mustard poultices applied to the stomach. Diuretics and fly blisters must be avoided as highly dangerous. Diet, low and sloppy. Nipples. — ^These may become sore or cracked when the bitch is giving milk. Cleanliness, washing with weak permanganate of potash. Boracic lotion and ointment. It may be advisable to remove the puppies, spoon feeding them. Nose, Ailments of. — Nasal catarrh is commonest. It may be mistaken for oncoming distemper. Discharge from the nostrils sometimes tinged with blood and of a foetid odour. Regulate the diet ; bathe the nostrils in hot water and syringe them out with warm water, to which a little Condy's fluid has been added. Nour- ishing food. Nose bleeding may be from a blow or from ulceration. A dilute solution of Adrenalin will stop it. A worm may have got into the nose, or there may be a polypus. Let a vet. examine. Obesity, or Fatness. — Generally from over-feeding and con- sequent indolence. Reduce the food by half. No fat, no sugar, no oily fish, no starchy food of any kind, except a little toasted Spratt's biscuit of the " Toy " or " Terrier " kind. Lean meat, ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 351 eggs, white fish, Uver boiled or raw. Occasional purgatives. Medicine of Httle use or dangerous. Ophthalmia. — See Eyes, Inflammation of. Paralysis. — It arises from pressure on the roots of the nerve in a limb or in any group of muscles ; pressure by effusion or otherwise upon the spinal cord or brain itself. It may arise from constipation in the case of the hind-quarters. Paralysis is some- times the result of a blow or injury to the spinal column. Another cause in puppies is the irritation of teething, and it may be a comphcation of distemper — a bad sign. Treatment. — The castor oil and buckthorn mixture, 2 parts of oil, i of syrup of buckthorn first. See that the medicine has acted ; if not, it must be repeated or an enema given. Keep his strength well up, and use this pre- scription : Iodide of potassium, i to 5 grains ; extract of bella- donna, tV to 2 grains ; extract of gentian, 2 to 10 grains. Make into a bolus ; give thrice daily. Continue this treatment for a week ; if httle improvement the dose is to be shghtly increased and Virol given. Gentle friction, or massage with the warm hand, will go far to maintain the nutrition of the limbs, and prevent ataxy or wasting. The bladder must be attended to, and, if necesseiry, the catheter passed and the water drawn off. Parasites. — Vide Fleas, Harvest Bug, Lice, Ticks, Worms. Piles, or Haemorrhoids. — Most common things among dogs who are roughly fed and get but little exercise. Caused by con- stipation or sluggish Uver. Pain while sitting at stool should at once arouse suspicion, or he may be observed frequently to hck the regions under the tail, or sit down and trail the anus along the ground. Upon examination the anus will be found to have lost its usual healthy contracted appearance, and is puffy and swollen. There are seldom external piles without internal as well. The stools, too, will often, especially if the dog be constipated, be found tinged with blood. Old dogs are more frequently troubled with piles than young ones. Treatment. — This must be both local and constitutional. The food ought to be of a non-constipating nature, and contain a due amount of flesh. Boiled greens ought to be given frequently, and occasionally a piece of raw bullock's hver. Exercise is most essential. Gentle purgatives may be re- quired, just enough to keep the bowels moderately free, such as a little sulphur in the food, or a Uttle castor oil given the last thing at night. Locally. — Cleanliness of the parts. An ointment will also be of great service, and ought to be not only well smeared on twice or oftener every day, but a little inserted into the rectum. The compound ointment of galls, with a double proportion of powdered opium, is very useful ; or the benzoated oxide of zinc 352 The Complete Book of the Dog ointment may be used, but if there be much tenderness the dog does not like it so well. Pleurisy is a most painful disease, caused by cold and damp while the dog is hungry and tired, or may be the extension of the inflammation of the lungs, pneumonia, constituting the disease pleuro-pneumonia. In pleurisy without pneumonia the ailment commences with rigor or shivering. Uneasiness, countenance anxious, coat staring. Thirst, pain, panting, and a dry, harsh cough. Fever and high temperature, and all the usual symptoms of inflammation. Rough sounds at first on applying the ear to the chest. No sound after the effusion takes place. If matter forms, distinct rigors or shivering. Treatment. — Both this disease and pneumonia will need all the skiU of a good vet., but much good can be done before he comes, or the case may be treated without him. Give a dose of castor oil at once, enough to open the bowels well, but no lowering medicine. Hot fomentations, poultices, and the usual local means of reUeving pain. Let his bed be warm and dry, but the apai^tment itself cool and well ventilated. After the oil has acted, i grain to 6 grains of James's powder may be given at once, and repeated at intervals of five hours until eight powders have been given. The following mixture may be used thrice daily for the first two or three days : Cream of tartar, from lo to 30 grains ; mindererus spirit, from 20 or 30 drops to 2 drachms, in a Uttle camphor water. When the fever has abated, some bhstering fluid might be rubbed in, if the seat of the pain can be positioned, but the coat would have to be cut and shaved at the place. Low diet at first. In convalescence after the fever, support the system with the usual foods for the sick, and a little wine or brandy and water may be needed thrice daily, but its effect must be watched on pulse and temperature. Diarrhoea, if it comes on, must not be stopped at once. It is generally salutary. Tincture of aconite is often of use in the first stages instead of the fever mixture ; dose, from 2 to 15 drops every three hours, in a little water. Iron tonics also in convalescence, and the tonic food Virol. Pneumonia. — Vet.'s assistance if possible, and trust all to him. It is inflammation of the lungs and may be an extension of bron- chitis. The disease is ushered in by restlessness, thirst, and some degree of rigor, which often escapes observation before the dog is really iU. Pain comes on, the breathing is quickened and laborious. The head is extended, the tongue protrudes, the eyes arc inflamed, the heaving breath is hot. He sits up hour after hour untO his feet slip from under him and his eyes close. Yet in a moment he may be aroused again by the feeling of suffocation. Add to ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 353 these unmistakable symptoms a disagreeable short cough, dry at first, but soon accompanied by the hacldng up of pellets of rusty-coloured mucus. Extensive lung inflammation may go on to death without any cough at all. Unlike the breathing of pleurisy, where inspiration is short, painful and interrupted, that in pneu- monia has expiration longer than inspiration. In addition, there are constipation of the bowels, high-coloured urine, and perspiration on the inner parts of the thighs. Pneumonia may often be com- plicated with pleurisy, or with bronchitis, or inflammation of the pericardium, the liver, or even the peritoneum itself, which last is more rare. Again, fits are not infrequent in pneumonia, especially if it is occasioned by distemper. These fits are adynamic in their character, and depend upon the anaemic condition of the blood, and should therefore never be treated by setons and such rough remedies. Treatment. — In general principles the same as that for pleurisy, but remember, please, that good nursing is half the battle. Poisons and their Antidotes. — WTiether as the result of acci- dent or by evil design, dogs are exceedingly hable to suffer from poisoning. Independently of either accident or design, the animal is sometimes poisoned by his owner unwisely administering to him drugs in too large doses. Poison is often put down to rats and mice, and in a form which is usually just as palatable to the house-dog as to the vermin. There are so many ingenious traps nowadays sold for the catching of vermin that really the practice of poisoning rats should seldom be resorted to. Catch the rats in a cage trap, and give sport to your Terriers. The symptoms of poisoning always appear very rapidly, and the great distress of the animal usually leads us to guess what has happened, and also to a knowledge of whether the poison is of the irritant, the narcotic, or the narcotico-irritant class. The irritant class gives rise to great pain in the stomach and belly, which is often tense and swollen, while the vomit matter is sometimes tinged with blood. The sickness and retching are very distressing ; so, too, at times, is the diarrhoea. The narcotic, such as opium, morphia, etc., act upon the brain and spinal cord, causing drowsiness, giddiness, and stupor, accom- panied at times with convulsions or paralysis. The narcotico-irritants give rise to intense thirst, great pain in the stomach, with vomiting and purging. Whenever it is sus- pected that a dog has swallowed narcotic poison, the first thing to do is to encourage vomiting by the mouth and to get rid of the poison as speedily as possible. Sulphate of zinc — dose, 5 to 20 grains or more in water — is one of the quickest emetics we have ; X 354 The Complete Book of the Dog or sulphate of copper — 3 to 10 grains — is good. At the same time the dog must be well drenched with lukewarm water. The s\Tnptoms and general treatment of the more common poisons are given below, but I advise the amateur to send at once for a veterinary surgeon. Acid, Carbolic. — In whatever way this is introduced into the system it is followed by great pain, sickness, shivering, prostra- tion or collapse. Olive oil or white of egg drench. Drench of sulphate of magnesia. Wrapping in hot rug, with hot water bottles ; the administration of brandy and water with sal-volatile. Antimony, or Tartar Emetic, rare in dog poisoning, but there are cases known. Give emetics and demulcents, barley water, white of egg mixed with water, magnesia, arrowroot and milk. After- wards stimulants for collapse. Wrap warmly in rug and put near fire. Arsenic. — ^This poison may have been put down for cats or dogs. It is found in many rat pastes and in vermin killers, also in fly papers, which should never be left in the way of puppies. There is depression at first, soon followed by terrible pain in stomach and throat, hacking and coughing, vomiting of brown matter and mucus, purging, great thirst, exhaustion and collapse. Give emetic to encourage vomiting, drench with salt and water or soapy water. Magnesia in large doses, or from a drachm to an ounce of dialysed iron after more urgent symptoms have abated, barley water, stimulants to overcome depression, hot fomentations and linseed poultices to stomach ; rest. Cantharides, or Fly Blister. — A puppy has been known to pick up and swallow this. Pain, great restlessness and vomiting of mucus and blood. Emetics, followed by demulcents, white of egg, milk or gruel. (N.B. — No fat or oil of any kind.) ^\^len the urgent symptoms are relieved, linseed poultices to abdomen, rest and warmth. Copper (in form of verdigris, perhaps). — Same treatment as for cantharides. Iodine, or Iodide of Potassium. — The former is sometimes used to reduce glandular swellings, and too much of the latter is often given in medicine. If long administered it destroys appetite and reduces flesh. Emetic, if the poisoning be acute — \vdne of ipecacuanha or sulphate of zinc in hot water ; demulcents, plenty of starch and gruel in full doses, and stimulants. Lead (as in white paint, crayons, French chalk). — Give emetics, Epsom salts in hot water ; then demulcents and poultices to stomach. Mercury. — In the older books the green iodide of mercury, white precipitate, etc., were recommended for skin and parasite ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 355 troubles. They killed the parasites, and often the dog. Care should he taken when putting ointments of any kind on the skin tliat the dog does not lick the dressing off. Dogs believe in the curative efficacy of their own tongues, and the animal's sahva is certainly an anti- septic, but he must not have a chance of licking the dressings from sore patches. To prevent this, let him wear a very wide cardboard collar. In suspected poisonings by mercury there is the usual sort of vomit, with great pain and distress and difficulty of breath- ing ; depression, leading to convulsions, death. Give drenches of white of egg and water, or flour and water ; then an emetic ; after- wards demulcents and stimulants for depression or collapse. Send for a good vet. Opium. — An emetic ; strong coffee as a drench ; electric shock to spine. Strychnine, or Nux Vomica, may be thrown down to a dog in some form or picked up in some of the vermin killers. The vomiting to be kept up with emetics. Antidotes are animal char- coal, olive oil, brandy and ammonia ; perfect rest and quiet, artificial respiration, hot poultices to stomach, hot bottle to back. In all cases of poisoning where the vet. quite despairs of Ufe, it is probably best to permit the dog to pass quickly away. Still it is not well to give up hopes too soon. The greatest difficulty we have to contend with in such cases, Hes in the fact that it is sometimes impossible to find out what the dog has swallowed. Prolapsus Ani, or a coming down or falling out of the end of the rectum, is occasionally met with in dogs of a weakly dispo- sition ; and if not properly treated, it may end in gangrene, slough- ing, and death. Careful regulation of the bowels is necessary, by simple laxatives, fresh air and gentle exercise. It is advisable to employ cold water enemas containing 3 or 4 drops of the tincture of iron to an ounce. Not more than from | ounce to 3 ounces should be injected, as it is meant to be retained. Do this twice or thrice a day. The protruded part of the gut is to be carefully returned before the injection is used. Prurigo. — Included in Skin Diseases, which see. Ptyalism, or Salivation. — An excessive secretion of the salivary glands. May be due to abuse of mercury, or decayed teeth, or foul mouth, or simply some local irritation. If there is no apparent cause, give a bitter tonic or dinner pill and see to his general comfort. Rabies. — Dogs that have fits are often beheved to be mad. There is of course such a disease as Rabies, but medical authorities themselves dispute as to its diagnosis and some go so far as to say that no such disease is ever seen in Britain. 356 The Complete Book of the Dog Rectum and its Ailments. — I have already mentioned piles. Much the same treatment will do for all irritations at the end of the gut. Great cleanhness is needed. Rheumatism, Acute. — Is generally found in dogs that have been neglected or over-pampered. One attack predisposes to another. The proximate cause is exposure to damp. Treatment. — Constitutionally the indications of treatment are to allay the pain and assuage the fever. We may fulfil the first indication by opium and belladonna in conjunction, as by a pill hke the pre- scription : — Powdered opium, \ grain to 2 or 3 grains ; extract of belladonna, | to 2 grains ; extract of taraxacum, 3 to 10 grains. Mix. Given every night, and if there seems to be very much distress, give also from 3 to 10 or 15 grains of this powder : — Powdered opium and powdered ipecac, 2 drachms ; nitrate of potash, powdered and dry, 2 ounces. Mix. Give thrice daily. Let the dog have a soft, warm, comfortable bed, with plenty of fresh air, but with freedom from draughts. Let his water, in which a teaspoonful or two of nitre and the same of bicarbonate of potash should be mixed, be placed handy to him, and always kept fresh. WTien the dog is first attacked his bowels ought to be cleared with a saline purgative, and afterwards kept open with from I drachm to 4 drachms of Epsom salts every morning, com- bined with 3 to 10 drops of tincture of hyoscyamus and 5 to 20 of dilute sulphuric acid. Sometimes from 5 drops to i^ drachms of the tincture of colchicum may be added with advantage to the morning draught. Food. — Low diet at first, but if signs of weak- ness exhibited, resort to beef tea, mutton broth, milk, and eggs. Locally, in a case of really acute rheumatism, very little can be done. In small dogs the warm bath may effect some good. Em- brocations are better suited to chronic or subacute cases. Heat applied to the scat of pain by means of a common fiat iron I have found do most good, or the use of bags of heated sand. After the acute stage is got over, give the following : — Sulphate of quinine, \ grain to 3 grains ; iodide of potassium, i grain to 5 grains. Rheumatism, Chronic. — ^This is known by the name of chest founder and kennel lameness. It is very often situated in the shoulder and in the chest. It is common in the back and loins, when it is termed lumbago. It is less common in the hind-quarters, but the feet are often affected. There is usually some degree of swelhng, if it be in the limbs ; there is little or no fever, though sometimes the appetite is lost ; but the animal is stiff and lame, and cries out when you handle the tender part, and even when attempting to walk. Treatment. — Cleanliness, dryness, and purity of the kennels. Give the dogs their food regularly, and see that ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 357 they are never allowed to lie out in the wet and cold. Regulate the bowels, and give tonics, or arsenic may do good. Virol cannot fail to improve the animal's condition, unless he is gross. Avoid sugar, or, indeed, dainties of any kind. Rickets. — Improper food is one great cause ; taking the puppy too soon from its dam, and supplying it with a diet unsuited to its digestion, may produce rickets. A weakly bitch will often have rickety puppies. A damp kennel, and the breathing of foul air, with lack of exercise in the warm sunshine, will be very likely to produce rickets in a puppy. Symptoms. — Decline of the general health. The pup is not so hvely ?^ he ought to be, and has occasional attacks of diarrhoea. The coat is dirty and harsh. At the same time there will be more or less tumefaction of the belly. Soon the bones begin to bend, especially the forelegs, and there is no longer any doubt about the nature of the complaint, although ten to one the puppy has been previously treated for worms. You must give the puppy good, wholesome, nourishing food ; his sleep- ing-berth ought to be dry and warm, and free from all bad smells, and he must have sufficient exercise and sunshine. Good milk with a little lime-water, and beef tea or Bovril, may be given with advantage. The only medicine you need use is an occasional dose of castor oil, say once a week, or when the dog is constipated. Par- rish's syrup of the phosphates will help to strengthen the consti- tution, in conjunction with Virol. Bone-meal does good in these cases. Spratt's Patent, I think, make this. Skin Diseases. — If I were to be asked the questions, " WTiy do dogs suffer so much from skin complaints ? " and " Why does it appear to be so difficult to treat them ? " I should answer the first thus : Through the neglect of their owners, from want of cleanliness, from injudicious feeding, from bad kennelling, and from permitting their favourites such free intercourse with other members of the canine fraternity. Overcrowding is another and distinct source of skin troubles. My answer to the second question is that the lay- man too often treats the trouble in the skin as if it were the disease itself, whereas it is, generally, merely a symptom thereof. To plaster medicated oils or ointments all over the skin of a dog suffer- ing from constitutional eczema is about as sensible as would be the painting white of the yellow skin in jaundice in order to cure the disordered hver. But even contagious diseases caused by skin germs or animalcules will not be wholly cured by any appUcations whatever. Constitutional remedies should go hand in hand with these. And, indeed, so great is the defensive power of strong, pure blood, rich in its white corpuscles or leucocytes, that I beUeve I could cure even the worst forms of mange by internal remedies. 358 The Complete Book of the Dog good food, and tonics, etc., without the aid of any dressing whatever except pure cold water. In treating of skin diseases it is usual to divide them into three sections : (i) The non-contagious, (2) the contagious, and (3) ail- ments caused by external parasites. (i) The Non-Contagious. — (a) Erythema. — This is a redness, with slight inflammation of the skin, the deeper tissues underneath not being involved. Examples : That seen between the wrinkles of well-bred Pugs, Mastiffs, or Bulldogs, or inside the thighs of Greyhounds, etc. If the skin breaks there may be discharges of pus, and if the case is not cured the skin may thicken and crack, and the dog make matters worse with his tongue. Treatment. — Review and correct the methods of feeding. A dog should be neither too gross nor too lean. Exercise, perfect cleanUness, the early morning sluice-down with cold water, and a quassia tonic. He may need a laxative as well. Locally. — Dusting with oxide of zinc or the violet powder of the nurseries, a lotion of lead, or arnica. Fomentation, followed by cold water, and, when dry, dusting as above. A weak solution of boracic acid (any chemist) will some- times do good. (b) Prurigo. — Itching all over, with or without scurf. Some- times thickening. Treatment. — Regulation of diet, green vegetables, fruit if he will take it, brushing and grooming, but never roughly. Try for worms and for fleas. (c) Eczema. — The name is not a happy one as applied to the usual itching skin disease of dogs. Eczema proper is an eruption in which the formed matter dries off into scales or scabs, and dog eczema, so-called, is as often as not a species of lichen. Then, of course, it is often accompanied with vermin, nearly always with dirt, and it is irritated out of all character by the biting and scratch- ing of the dog himself. Treatment. — Must be both constitutional and local. Attend to the organs of digestion. Give a moderate dose of opening medicine, to clear away offending matter. This simple aperient may be repeated occasionally, say once a week, and if diarrhoea be present it may be checked by the addition of a little morphia or dilute sulphuric acid. Cream of tartar with sulphur is an excellent derivative, being both diuretic and dia- phoretic, but it must not be given in doses large enough to purge. At the same time we may give thrice daily a tonic pill like the following : — Sulphate of quinine, J to 3 grains ; sulphate of iron, \ grain to 5 grains ; extract of hyoscyamus, J to 3 grains ; extract of taraxacum and glycerine enough to make a pill. Locally. — Perfect cleanliness. Cooling lotions patted on to the sore places. Spratt's cure. (N.B. — I know what every remedy contains, or ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 359 I should not recommend it.) Benzoated zinc ointment after the lotion has dried in. Wash carefully once a week, using the oint- ment when skin is dry, or the lotion to allay irritation. (2) Contagious Skin Diseases. — These are usually called mange proper and follicular mange, or scabies. I want to say a word on the latter first. It depends upon a microscopic animalcule called the Acarus follicidorum. The trouble begins by the forma- tion of patches, from which the hair falls off, and on which may be noticed a few pimples. Scabs form, the patches extend, or come out on other parts of the body, head, legs, belly, or sides. Skin becomes red in white-haired dogs. Odour of this trouble very offensive. More pain than itching seems to be the symptomatic rule. Whole body may become affected. Treatment. — Dress the affected parts twice a week with the following : Creosote, 2 drachms ; linseed oil, 7 ounces ; solution of potash, i ounce. First mix the creosote and oil, then add the solution and shake. Better to shave the hair off around the patches. Kennels must be kept clean with garden soap and hot water, and all bedding burned after use. From three months to six will be needed to cure bad cases. Mange Proper is also caused by a parasite or acarus called the Sarcoptes canis. Unlike eczema, this mange is spread from dog to dog by touch or intercommunication, just as one person catches the itch from another. Symptoms. — At first these may escape attention, but there are vesicles which the dog scratches and breaks, and thus the disease spreads. The hair gets matted and falls off. Regions of the body most commonly affected, head, chest, back, rump, and extremities. There may not be much constitutional disturbance from the actual injury to the skin, but from his suffering so much from the irritation and the want of rest the health is affected. Treatment. — Some ointment must be used to the skin, and as I am writing for laymen only I feel chary in recommending such strong ones as the green iodide of mercury. If you do use it, mix it with twice its bulk of the compound sulphur ointment. Do over only a part or two at a time. The dog to be washed after three days. But the compound sulphur ointment itself is a splendid application, and it is not dangerous. (3) Skin Complaints from Vermin. — The treatment is obvious — get rid of the cause. As their diagnosis is so difficult, whenever the dog-owner is in doubt, make certain by treating the dog not only by local applications but constitutionally as well. In addition to good diet, perfect cleanliness of coat, kennel, and all surroundings, and the apphcation of the ointment or oil, let the dog have all the fresh air possible, and exercise, but never over-exciting or too fatigu- ing. Then a course of arsenic seldom fails to do good. The form 36o The Complete Book of the Dog of exliibition which I have found suit as well as any is the tasteless Liquor arsenicalis. It is easily administered, preferably mixed with the food, as it ought to enter the blood with the chyle from the diet. The dose, day by day, is gradually, not hurriedly, increased. Symptoms of loathing of food and redness of con- junctiva call for the cessation of the treatment for two or three days, but it should be resumed with the same size dose as given before the interval. There are two things which assist the arsenic ; they are, iron in some form and Virol. The latter will be needed when there is much loss of flesh. A simple piU of sulphate of iron and extract of liquorice may be used. Dose of Liquor arsenicalis from I to 6 drops thrice daily to commence with, gradually increased to 5 to 20 drops. Dandruff. — A scaly or scurfy condition of the skin, with more or less of irritation. It is really a shedding of the scaly epidermis brought on by injudicious feeding or want of exercise as a primary cause. The dog, in cases of this kind, needs cooUng medicines, such as small doses of the nitrate and chlorates of potash, perhaps less food. Bowels to be seen to by giving plenty of green food, with a morsel of sheep's melt or raw hver occasionally. Wash about once in three weeks, a very little borax in the last water, say a drachm to a gallon. Use mild soap. Never use a very hard brush or sharp comb. Tar soap (Wright's) may be tried. Sluggish Liver. — Symptoms very obscure. Attention to general health. No dainties or sugar. Fair proportion of meat. Allowance of hver, boiled or raw, to keep bowels open. Extract of taraxacum in small doses. Ticks. — I have noticed these disagreeable bloodsuckers only on the heads and bodies of sporting or Collie dogs, who had been boring for some time through coverts and thickets. They soon make themselves visible, as their bodies swell up with the blood they suck until they resemble small soft warts about as big as a pea. They belong to the natural family Ixodida. If not very numerous they should be cut off, and the part touched with a little turps. The sulphuret of calcium wiU also kill them, so will the more dangerous white precipitate, or even a strong solution of carbolic acid, which must be used sparingly, however. Tongue. — ^The tongue of a healthy dog should be soft and of a pinky hue ; if white far back there is some disorder of stomach or bowels, whicli must be seen to. Tongue : Carbuncle, or unhealthy swclUng underneath. This used to be called Blain ; caused by bad feeding and impure blood. The swelling is under the tongue at one side, and there is an increased flow of saliva of a fetid odour. The swelhng must be ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 361 lanced by a vet., and the mouth kept constantly clean with permanganate solution. Tongue, Inflammation of. — May arise from bites. If so, wash out well with solution of permanganate of potash twice daily, and give a soft diet, tripe, hver, etc., or porridge, or Spratt's invalid food. If much swelUng, give an aperient. An incision or two sometimes needed, but a vet. must do this. The brutal and useless custom of worming the tongue is now obsolete. Tongue, Ulceration of, and wounds that heal badly, must be touched with caustic, and an astringent boracic lotion used, about 15 grains to i ounce of water. Ulcers, wherever situated, must be treated on general prin- ciples. Locally an antiseptic lotion or Cadum ointment, or, if very foul, a touch of bluestone or lunar caustic. Poultice if swelling around the ulcer, followed by dressing of zinc ointment, perfect cleanliness, and good strengthening diet. Urinary Organs. — Any ailment of these regions, either in dog or bitch, should be seen to and treated by a good vet., whose rules and directions must be strictly followed out. Worms. — We have, roughly speaking, two kinds of worms to treat in the dog : (i) the round, and (2) the tape. (i) Roundworms. — They are in shape and size not unlike the garden worm, but harder, pale, and pointed. Symptoms. — Some- times these are alarming, for the worm itself is occasionally seized with the mania for foreign travel, and finds its way into the throat or nostrils, causing the dog to become perfectly furious, and in- ducing such pain and agony that it may seem charity to end its life. The worms may also crawl into the stomach and give rise to great irritation, but are usually dislodged therefrom by the violence accompanying the act of vomiting. Their usual habitat, how- ever, is the small intestines, where they occasion great distress to their host. The appetite is always depraved and voracious. At times there is coHc, with sickness and perhaps vomiting, and the bowels are alternately constipated and loose. The coat is harsh and staring. There usually is short, dry cough from reflex irritation of the bron- chial mucous membrane, a bad-smeUing breath, and emaciation or at least considerable poverty of flesh. The disease is most common in puppies and in young dogs. The appearance of the ascaris in the dog's stools is, of course, the diagnostic s^Tuptom. Treatment. — The usual remedy is the simple one of giving a dose of areca powder, followed by castor oil once a week. This clears the blood, even if there are no worms. I have cured many cases with santonin and areca-nut powder (betel-nut), dose 10 grains to 2 drachms ; or turpentine, dose from 10 drops to i J drachms. 362 The Complete Book of the Dog beaten up with yolk of egg. But areca-nut is preferable for tape- worm, so we cannot do better than trust to pure santonin. The dose is from i grain for a Toy up to 6 grains for a Mastiff. Mix it with a little butter, and stick it well back in the roof of the dog's mouth. He must have fasted previously for twelve hours, and had a dose of castor oil the day before. In four or five hours after he has swallowed the santonin, let him have a dose of either ohve oil or decoction of aloes. Dose, 2 drachms to 2 ounces or more. Repeat the treatment in five days. Spratt's cure may be safely depended on for worms, and there are many other preparations in the market from which the dog-owner may make his own choice. Ruby is especially good for 3'oung puppies. The EUwyn worm cure gives good results, Sherley's worm capsules are both safe and certain, and they do not require the castor oil. The perfect cleanliness of the kennel is of paramount importance. The animal's general health requires looking after, and he may be brought once more into good condition b}' proper food and a course of vegetable tonics. If wanted in show condition we have Plasmon to fall back upon, and Burroughs and Wellcome's extract of malt. There is a roundworm which at times infests the dog's bladder, and may cause occlusion of the urethra ; a whipworm inhabiting the caecum ; another may occupy a position in the mucous membrane of the stomach ; some infest the blood, and others the eye. (2) Tapeworms. — There are several kinds, but the treatment is the same in all cases. The commonest in this country is the Cucu- merine. This is a tapeworm of about 15 inches in average length, but it may be fully 30 inches long. It is a semi-transparent ento- zoon ; each segment is long compared to its breadth, and narrowed at both ends. Each joint has, when detached, an independent sexual existence. The dog often becomes infested with this para- site from eating sheep's brains, and dogs thus afflicted and allowed to roam at pleasure over fields and hills where sheep are fed sow the seeds of gid in our flocks to any extent. We know too well the great use of Colhe dogs to the shepherd or grazier to advise that dogs should not be employed as assistants, but surely it would be to their owners' advantage to see that they are kept in a state of health and cleanliness. Treatment. — We ought to endeavour to prevent as well as to cure. We should never allow our dogs to eat the entrails of hares or rabbits. Never allow them to be fed on raw sheep's intestines, nor the brains of sheep. Never permit them to lounge around butchers' shops, nor cat offal of any kind. Let their food be well cooked, and their skins and kennels kept scru- pulously clean. Dogs that are used for sheep and cattle ought, twice a year at least, to go under treatment for the expulsion of ABC Guide to Canine Ailments 363 worms, whether they are infested or not ; an anthelmintic would make sure, and could hardly hurt them. For the expulsion of tape- worms we depend mostly on areca-nut. In order that the tapeworm may receive the full benefit of the remedy, give the dog a dose of castor oil the day before in the morning, and let him have no food during that day except beef tea or mutton broth. The bowels are thus empty next morning, so that the parasite cannot shelter itself anywhere, and is therefore sure to be acted on. Infusion of cusco is sometimes used as an anthelmintic, so is wormwood, and the liquid extract of male fern ; in America, spigelia root and pumpkin seeds. The best tonic to give in cases of worms is the extract of quassia. Extract of quassia, i to lo grains ; extract of hyoscyamus, ^ to 5 grains. To make one pill. Thrice daily. The action of the quassia here is anthelmintic as well as tonic, and the hyoscyamus, when continued for some time, has a gentle action on the bowels, and, being a narcotic, is probably also an anthel- mintic, as I have the opinion that many narcotics are. Wounds.— In all cases of severe wounds a vet. should be sent for at once, and the person who takes the message must be instructed to inform him of the nature of the accident. Roughly speaking, the immediate treatment of wounds is (i) to arrest the bleeding, (2) to cleanse the wound, (3) to keep the parts at rest, (4) to protect the wound from outward contamination, by clean antiseptic dressing. We must never touch a wound with dirty hands or dirty instruments. We cannot expect healing by the first intention if we poison it with dirty hands. In bleeding from an artery the blood comes in spurts with every wave of the pulse ; if from veins it simply runs. Only a vet. can tie an artery or use torsion or twisting on it, but pressure applied firmly with the fingers in the wound and in the bleeding spot will arrest it. This pressure must be kept up for some considerable time. Before dressing a wound, wash the hands with hot water, or warm water, and soap. While doing so, dis- patch someone for a little turpentine, and rub this well over them ; or use methylated spirit, brandy, or whisky for the same purpose. Cleansing the Wound. — ^The water must be as pure as possible. The wound is now to be gently washed, having first added some antiseptic solution to the water. Carbolic acid, i part to 40, is best. But if this be not handy, two tablespoonfuls of Condy's fluid to a pint of warm water may be substituted, or spirits mixed with water that has been boiled and allowed to cool, or even a dessertspoonful of salt in half a pint of water. Having washed the wound, and taken care not to rub away any blood clots that may have been formed, proceed to dress it temporarily — the vet. will do the rest. Wring a pledget of Imt out of your carbolized lotion and 364 The Complete Book of the Dog place it in the wound. Over this put a layer or two of nice clean cotton-wool ; then carefully bandage it secundum artem. The edges of the wound, if big, must be brought together with strapping before dressing, and a splint may be needed to go over all in order to secure perfect rest. Keep the dog quiet, and prevent his tearing off the dressings, even if you should have to muzzle him. For contused wounds, wetted antiseptic wool fixed by a bandage should be used. Poisoned wounds must be most carefully cleansed with your antiseptic solution, and then dressed in the usual way. The vet. will know whether dressing must be repeated every morn- ing. It is best so, as a rule, for the first three days. Bites from other dogs need not be looked upon as poisoned wounds. Treat in the ordinary way with antiseptics. Yellows, The. — This is an ordinary kennel or keeper's name for Jaundice, which see. Postscript. — As a dog gets old he ought to have less work to do and get more care. Ndt that he is to be coddled — coddling kills man or beast — but he needs protection from the weather and cold, and better diet, though less of it, and far more kindness and consideration. He has been faithful and true, a real friend, and he deserves our special sympathy when age overtakes him. Twenty years mark, perhaps, the extreme span of a dog's life. Fourteen is the average. Bulldogs nowadays seldom live to see their eighth year. What is to be done when our companion is overtaken by old age or by incurable infirmity and illness ? The lethal chamber ? Certainly not for an old and valued friend. Nor would you hand him over to perfect strangers to whom he is " only a dog." Consider his own grief at such a parting, which is bitterer far, perhaps, than the pain of death itself. No ; let your old friend have your kindness, attention and sympathy to the very last, and let him die with your hand on his brow. 1 APPENDIX KENNEL CLUB RULES Revised 20th April, 1921 Prewminary The Committee of the Kennel Club may, subject to Rule 15, for such time as they tliink lit, delegate their powers under these Rules, wholly, or in part, to any Sub-Committee composed of members of the Kennel Club ; or, with the sanction of a General Meeting, to any other body. The Committee of the Kennel Club shall have the power to grant permission for Shows to be held under the Rules of the Kennel Club, or otherwise, and subject to such regulations as they may deem fit. The Committee of the Kennel Club shall have the power to withdraw or cancel any such permission. An application for a Licence to hold a Show under Kennel Club Rules, or otherwise, must be lodged with the Secretary of the Kennel Club, 84 Piccadilly, London, W., at least 30 days previous to the Show, or, if the Show be held in Scotland, with the Secretary of the Scottish Kennel Club, 59 George Street, Edinburgh. No Licence shall be granted for a three-day Show except on the under- taking that all dogs are permitted to be removed not later than six p.m. on the third day. The fees for Shows held imder Kennel Club Rules shall be as follows : £ s. d. {a) Payable on application — For a Licence for a Show . • . . o 15 o (6) Payable immediately after the entries close — If the entries exceed 150 and not 250 . .100 I. .. >> 250 ,, ,, 500 . . 2 15 o For every complete hundred entries over 500 100 Definitions The CoMJnTTEE of the Ken'XEI, Club means a majority of the Committee present and voting at a properly convened Aleeting at which a quorum is present. Delegated Authority. — The Majority present and voting at a properly convened Meeting of a quonmi of a Sub-Committee or other body to whom powers have been delegated by the Committee of the Kennel Club. The Singular includes the plural and vice versa. He and Dog include both sexes. A Show m.eans a Dog Show, i:icluding any Exhibition of dogs for competition or awards to which the pubUc are admitted by fee or otherwise. Recognized Shows are those held under Kennel Club Rules, or other Regu- lations of the Committee of the Kennel Club or delegated authority ; those held under sanction of an authority abroad recognized by the Kennel Club ; all Hound Shows held under an authority recognized by tlie Kennel Club. 36s 366 Appendix Unrecognized Shows are all other Shows ; exhibits at the same thereupon become disqualified for entry at any Shows held under permission of the Committee of the Kennel Club or delegated authority. A Hound Show is a Show consisting exclusively of all or any of the following breeds : Foxhounds, Staghounds, Otterhounds, Bloodhounds, Harriers, Basset-hounds and Beagles. An Open Class is one in which all dogs of any breed or variety of breed therein provided for can compete. A Limit Class is one in which no dog can compete which has won more than six first prizes in Open and Limit Classes at Shows where Challenge Certificates are offered for the breed. A Novice Class is one in which no dog can compete which has won a First Prize in any Class other than Puppy, Maiden, Local, Members' or District, or a Challenge Certificate at a Show held under Kennel Club Rules, vide Kennel Club Rxile 4. A Maiden Class is one for dogs who have never won a prize in any Gass at Shows held under Kennel Club Rules, vide Kennel Club Rule 4. [The words " Novice " and " Maiden " m.ust not be used as the name, or part of the name, in connexion with any other Classes other than defined above, but they may be used in con- nexion with Local and Members' Classes.] (Dogs which have won the title of Champion under American Kennel Club Rules are not eUgible for entry in a Novice or Maiden Class at a Show under Kennel Club Rules.) A Local Class is a Class confined to either (a) A County or {b) To a radius approved by the Committee of the Kennel Club. A Puppy. — A Puppy for the purposes of exhibition is a dog of six and under twelve months of age, dating from and inclusive of the date of its birth. A Puppy Class. — A Puppy Class is one for dogs of six and under twelve months of age on the first day of the Show. (Puppies over three and imder six months of age are ineligible for exhibition.) (See definition of a Puppy.) A Litter. — A litter consists of one or more puppies bom at the same parturition. A Litter Class is one for not less than two or more Puppies of one and the same Utter under three months of age on the first day of the Show. Not more than one entry can be made from one litter in the same Class. A Sweepstake Class is one in which the total entry fees are given as the prize money in such proportion as the Committee of the particular Show may determine, and no greater deduction than 10 per cent. of such entry fees may be made. The Breeder is (i) The owner of a bitch at the time of whelping, or (2) The person to whom it is lent, or leased, for breeding purposes, provided prior to the whelping he has lodged a declaration of the lending, or leasing, signed by him and the owner of the bitch, with the Secretary of the Keimel Club. (Fee, in the latter case, 10s.) A PrizE.^A Money Prize or Prize of any description won in a Class, or Special Prize or Challenge Certificate, is included in this definition. 1. Registration ol Dogs' Names, Pedigrees, etc. — The following registrations must be made at the Kennel Club on forms supplied for the purpose, and in accordance with the directions thereon. (a) The name, etc., of a dog prior to its being first exhibited, whether for competition or not. (Fee, 3s. 6d.) (6) Any change of the name of such a dog prior to exhibition imder its new name. (Fee, £1.) Appendix 367 (c) The last transfer of ownership of a registered dog since it was last exhibited prior to exhibition by its new owner. (Fee, ys. 6d.) (d) Rectification of any mistake in a previous registration. (Fee, 3s. 6d.) NOTF<. — Unless it can be proved to the satisfaction of the Committee of the Kennel Club that fraud has been committed, or that a bona-fide mistake or misrepresentation has been made, no re-registration of a dog can be allowed as regards breeds or varieties. (e) A name assumed by an individual for exhibition and breeding pur- poses. (Fee, £2 2s. per annum.) (/) A Prefix or Affix may be registered by an individual or partnership (Initial Fee, £1 is. ; Maintenance Fee, los. 6d. per annum. ]^ Holders of prefixes and affixes paying los. 6d. per annum Maintenance Fee may compound on payment of £5 5s., after which no further fee will be required. {g) Hounds exhibited from a Pack or Cry of Beagles mu.st first be regis- tered at the Kennel Club, fee, 3s. 6d., and the name of their Pack or owner must be given as part of the registered name, for which there will be no charge. (A) Greyhounds already registered in the name of the exhibitor, under National Coursing Club Rules, must be registered at the Kennel Club under the same name and the letters, " G.S.B." added afterwards. A 2S. inquiry fee will be charged for information as to whether any dog is registered or other\vise. The Committee of the Kennel Club may decline an application for any registration or cancel any registration already made. Dogs are exempt from registration in the following cases : (i) (i) Dogs exhibited exclusively in Classes specially exempted by the Committee of the Kennel Club or Delegated Authority ; (2) Classes for dogs owned by children under sixteen years of age ; (3) Exemption Shows, i.e. small Shows held in conjunction with Agricultural and Horticultural Shows, FStes, and the like. (i) Puppies exhibited exclusively in Litter Classes. (k) Foxhounds, Staghounds, and Otterhounds belonging to recognized Packs, and also Harriers, Beagles and Basset-hounds belonging to packs entered in the Stud Books of the Association of Masters of Harriers and Beagles, and the Masters of Basset-hounds. (/) Foxhounds, Staghounds, Otterhounds, Bloodhounds, Harriers, Basset- hounds, Beagles and Greyhounds when exhibited at a Hound Show held under an authority recognized by the Kennel Club. (>») Dogs in Special Classes sanctioned by the Committee. 2. Names, Prefixes and AfiOxes. — A name which has become eligible for entry in tlie Stud Book cannot be again registered in the same breed. A name once registered cannot again be registered in the same breed for ten years after the ist January following the last registration, except that — If a dog has been registered, but dies before it has been exhibited or bred from, or before it has been entered in the Stud Book, the owner may cancel the name, and the same shall be deemed to have been never registered. (Fee, los.) A Prefix or Affix shall constitute part of a name. A distinguishing letter or number either in figures or words shall not be used as a prefix or affix. On a change of name of a prizewinner, the old name, as well as the new, m.ust be given when the dog is entered for exhibition until the new name has been published in The Kennel Gazette. A name of a dog which has once become eligible for entry in the Stud Book cannot be changed. The name of a dog imported from the United States of America or its possessions cannot be changed. 368 Appendix 3. Entry for Exhibition : Removals. — Entries for a Show must close at the latest five clear days before the Show opens, and the day fixed may not be altered. In case of violation of this Rule the Secretary or Manager, or both, shall be held responsible and may be dealt with under Rule 17. A dog, when entered for a Show, must be solely and imconditionally the property of the exhibitor. A dog, however, may be sold with its engagements, and exhibited in its new owTier's name subject to the transfer being registered previous to the Show, with a declaration that the new owner undertakes to abide by the rules and conditions on the original entry form of the Show. Separate entry forms must be filled up for the exhibit of each person. All Entry Forms must be signed by the Exhibitor or his authorized agent in accordance with the provisions specified thereon. No official may fill up any Entry Form except his own, or alter any Entry Form after the entry has b^ • t^ade. A Show Committee ma; • the right to refuse, on reasonable grounds, any entry. Puppies may be remov. 3 dose of the Show on the first day or on any subsequent day within a.n hour prior to the opening or subsequent to the closing of the Show. ^u order for this purpose must be obtained from the Secretary on the first day of the Show. It shall be left to the Executive of the Show to determine the hour of closing a Show, and the hours and the conditions for the removal of dogs, on each or any day, but the conditions may not include a right to charge a fee for the removal before the hour of closing. And no exhibit, other than puppies as above provided, shall be allowed to be removed from the Show, except at the hours and on the conditions so determined, unless by and with the order of the Veterinary Surgeon, or of the Show Manager, imder very exceptional and imforeseen circumstances, which must be reported by the Show Manager to the Kennel Club. The time of closing tlie Show and the conditions for the removal of dogs on each and every day must be included in the Regxilations of every Show. 4. Estimating Number ol Prizes Won. — All wins previous to the mid- night preceding the day specified iu the Schedule for closing entries shall be coimted when entering for any class. Equal awards shall count as a win for each dog so placed, 5. Withdrawal £rom Competition. — Once in a Show a dog may not be withdrawn from competition without the written consent of the Show Com- ' mittee or Secretary, except when the Judge announced in the Schedule is changed, in which case only, the dog may be withdrawn before the commence- ment of the judging of the breed or variety of the breed, and may be removed from the Show by the owner or his accredited agent. 6. Weighing or Dogs. — Every dog entered in a class hmited by weight must be weighed in the presence of the Judge, or of a Steward, or other official delegated by the Judge, immediately before competition in any such class and in every subsequent class in which there is a change in the weight limit. 6a. Judge's Decision. — A Judge's decision shall be final except in a case of fraud or misrepresentation or where a mistake has been made bova Jide by the Judge. Subject to these exceptions his decision shall be deemed to be final at the termination of his judging tlie class. A Judge shall be empowered to withhold any Prize, Special Prize, or Challenge Certificate, if in his opinion there is lack of sufficient merit, but he must mark his judgfng slips that the award has been so withheld. When a Judge withholds a Third Prize for want of merit, the Reserve Award must also be withheld. Subject to Rule 13 the Judge is not eutitied to withhold a Prize for any other reason, but he must not withhold any Prize in Sweepstake Classes. Any alteration made by a Judge must be initialled by him, and where such Appendix 369 alteration is made after the slips are handed in, they must bear the time and date of making such alterations endorsed upon his judging book, slips, letter or other document. 7. Championship Shows 'and Title. — A Championship Show is one at which the Kennel Club permits competition for Challenge Certificates. A Challenge Certificate is a Certificate granted by the Kennel Club for offer for competition and award to the best of each sex in a breed or variety of breed at a Show held under their Rules in accordance with the Regulations governing the issue of Challenge Certificates. The title of Champion shall attach to a dog winning three Challenge Cer- tificates under three different Judges, except in the case of Pointers, Setters, Sporting Spaniels, and Retrievers born after the ist June, 1909, in which breeds it shall be necessary that in addition to having been awarded three Challenge Certificates by three different Judges, a dog must also have gained a Prize or Certificate of Merit or qualified for Championship at a Field Trial which is recognized by the Kennel Club. A dog ha\'ing won two or more ChalL ificates and not having won a Prize or Certificate of Merit at a Field .ognized by the Kennel Club may be run — not for competition, and Wi . le payment of any entry fee, with the object of gaining such Certificate the Kennel Club Field Trials or at any Field Trials recognized by the Kenn^. Club where like facilities are granted. N.B. — Qualified for Championship shall mean that it shall be in the power, and at the discretion of the Judge (or Judges) judging at a recognized Field Trial to award a qualification to any dog running at such Trials that has previously won two or more Challenge Certificates under Kennel Club Rules, which in his (or their) opinion has shown the necessary working qualifications of his breed, which, in the case of Spaniels includes retrieving, although he (or they) may not consider such dog sufficiently well broken to be worthy of the Certificate of Merit. Notice of such qualification to be forwarded to the Secretary of the Kennel Club. Intending competitors under this rule must notify the Secretary of the meeting tlieir intention of running a dog at or before the closing of entries for any meeting. To compete for a Challenge Certificate a dog must have been registered and have won a prize in a Class confined to its breed or variety open to all exhibitors at the Show in question. It is ad^'isable that a Judge shall award a " Reserve " Challenge Certificate if, in his opinion, there is sufficient merit to justify such award. In deciding such award the Judge must first consider the question of second prize winners who have not met some of the first prize winners in competition. If in the opinion of the Judge there is not sufficient merit to justify him in awarding a Challenge Certificate it must be withheld, and he should mark his judgmervt book accordingly. No Kennel Club Challenge Certificate shall be granted by the Committee of the Kennel Club, or Delegated Authority, for any breed or any variety of a breed — {a) If a separate Open Class for each sex is not provided for the same. (b) If the Show offers less than £2 for first prize money in any Class except Brace, Team, Stud Dog, Brood Bitch, Veteran, Breeders' Selling, Litter, Local and Members' Classes. (c) If the Show does not offer three prizes in its Open Classes. (d) If the Show is on the sweepstakes principle (except in Brace or Team Classes) . 8. Classification and Special Prizes at Shows (Subject to Rule 7). — Show Committees may offer such prizes and make such classffication and definitions thereof (subject to the definitions in the Kennel Club Rules) as they think fit, except that — (a) All Classes advertised iu the Schedule of a Show must be clearly defined in the Schedule. 370 Appendix (b) When Classes or Prizes are guaranteed the names of the guarantors must be stated in the Schedule and Catalogue imder such Class, Prize or Breed. (c) No Classes or Prizes may be offered for progeny sired by a specified dog, Specialist Club Stakes excepted, and no prizes of free services of any dog permitted. (d) No puppy shall be eligible to compete in any Class or for any prize, competition for which is Ihnited to exhibits not exceeding a certain stated weight or height, unless such class or Prize be confined to puppies only, but a puppy shall be eligible to compete in any Class or for any prize, competition for which is limited to exhibits exceeding a certain stated weight or height, provided that the puppy exceeds the stipulated weight or height and is otherwise eligible. {e) No dog shall be eligible to compete for a Special Prize (open to more than one breed or variety) which has been beaten in its breed class or classes by another of either sex, eligible to compete for that Special Prize. A Show other than a championship Show may give sweepstakes classes, but the fact that such classes are offered must be prominently stated on the front page of the schedule and only classes so designated in the schedule can be offered or given at such Show. No classes at any Show under Kennel Club Rules can be amalgamated or cancelled, but a Show may be abandoned by permission of the Committee of the Kennel Club. 9. Veterinary Examination at Shows. — At least one qualified Veteri- nary Surgeon, or some person competent to act as a substitute, if specially permitted by the Committee of the Kennel Club or Delegated Authority, must be appointed to a Show. No dog suffering from an infectious or con- tagious disease shall be allowed to enter or remain in a Show. The Veterinary Surgeon, or authorized substitute, shall — {a) Examine each dog at the entrance of the Show, and during the Show if required, and if in his opinion the dog is not fit to enter or remain in the Show he shall give his opinion in writing, stating his reasons, signed and lodged with the Secretary as soon as possible. (6) Examine any dog on the day it is objected to on the ground of being blind, deaf, or suffering from contagious or infectious disease, or that it has been prepared for exhibition in contravention of the Regulations made by the Committee of the Kennel Club, and give his opinion in writing, signed, to the Secretary before the Show doses. No such dog may leave the Show before such examination. 10. Payment and Delivery ol Prizes. — All prizes offered and won out- right must be paid or delivered not earUer than twenty -one days and not later than thirty-one days from the close of the Show. Where any money prize is offered in the Schedule it must be paid in full, without deduction, except in cases where amounts are legally due to a Show Executive. Where Class Prizes are offered in kind, the value of the same shall be stated in the Schedule. Prizes awarded to dogs objected to must not be paid or delivered until the objection has been finally determined, and in the case of an appeal to, or any objection by, the Committee of the Kennel Club, not until permission is granted by that Committee. In the case of violation of this Rule the persons signing the Licence appli- cation form upon which the Licence for the said Show was granted shall be held primarily responsible and may be dealt with under Rule 17. When Special Prizes are offered by a Specialist Club, the Executive of such Club will be held primarily responsible. Appendix 371 11. Sales at Shows. — Any person daimiug to purchase a dog exhibited at any Show must, at the time of claiming, lodge a sum at least equal to 20 per cent., and if required tlie whole amount, of tlie catalogue price of the dog at the Secretary's Office in tlie Show, and obtain a receipt for tlie same. Such receipt must bear on its face the time the claim was made, and the dog must then be sold in accordance with the regulations of the particular Show and the Kennel Club Rules, and the remainder of the purchase money must be paid to the Secretary before tlie removal of the dog from the Show, or the deposit may be forfeited, in which event any such deposit must be paid over to the owner of the dog, less the commission, if any, which the Show is en- titled to charge under their regulations on the sum deposited. Any sums deposited by anyone except the eventual purchaser of the dog, or those for- feited as before provided for, must be returned to tlie respective claimants, and the Committee of a Show shall see that all such deposits must be returned, and all purchase money received for a dog sold at their Show, less com- mission, if any, must be paid to the late owner within seven days from the close of the Show. When any dog is sold, the Secretary of the Show must see that a " Sold " card is placed over its bench, as soon as possible after the completion of the sale. 12. Objections to Dogs.- — An objection to a dog may be made by any person, except by one who is under a term of suspension by the Kennel Club. The objection must be in writing and delivered to the Secretary at his office in the Show, or at his address as advertised in the Schedule. If the objection is made by persons other than the Show Committee or the Committee of the Kennel Club or Delegated Authority, the sum of los. must be deposited at the same time, which shall be returned unless the Committee of the Kennel Club, or Delegated Authority, deem the objection frivolous, in which case it shall be forfeited. Where an objection is made against more than one dog a separate deposit must be lodged in the case of each dog. In the case of an objection to a Pack, Couple, Team, Brace, or Litter, one deposit only to be lodged. An objection must be lodged : (a) On the ground of incorrect weight — at the time of weighing, which may, in the first instance, be made verbally to the judge (who shall make note thereof), but which must, without delay, be followed by the formal objection as above. {b) On the ground of being improperly tampered with, blind, deaf, or suffering from any form of contagious or infectious disease — before the Show closes. (c) On any other ground — within twenty-one days from the last day of the Show. An objection shall be dealt with at a Show Committee Meeting, if possible, within fourteen days, and in no case later than twenty-eight days, of its being lodged. A copy of the objection shall be dispatched by the Secretary witliin twenty-four hours of the objection being lodged to the registered owner of the dog at his address given on the entry form, and reasonable notice of the meeting shall be sent to any persons concerned. The decision of the Show Committee shall be communicated to parties concerned within forty-eight hours. No objection shall be invalidated solely on the ground that any notice has not been duly given, or that any meeting has not been duly held imder this Rule. An appeal shall lie to the Committee of the Kennel Club, or Delegated Authority, as the case may be, if lodged within fourteen days of the decision. 13. Disqualification and Forfeit of Prizes. — A dog shall be disqualified for competition — (i) By the Committee of the Kennel Club, or Delegated 372 Appendix Authority, direct, or : — (2) By the Committee of a Show on objection (see Rule 12), subject to appeal to the Committee of the Kennel Club, or Delegated Authority, as the case may be, if it is proved to be : (a) Exhibited at an unrecognized Show {see Definitions). (b) Registered in the name of and owned by a person suspended for dis- creditable conduct as from the date of the charge being lodged at the Kennel Club and for the period of such suspension (see Rule 17). (c) Exhibited by a person disqualified or suspended vmder Rules 16 or 17. (d) Entered after the date fixed for the closing of entries [see Rule 3). (e) I,ed into the ring or worked at a Field Trial or taken charge of at a Show or Field Trial by a person suspended under Rules 16 or 17. (/) Totally blind. {g) Totally deaf. (h) Castrated. (i) Spayed. (;') Prepared for exhibition in contravention of Regulations contained in Appendix II. {k) Suffering from an uifectious or contagious disease. (/) Entered in a manner not complying with the Classification in the Schedule. (ni) Exhibited for competition by a Judge of the Show. [n) Not duly registered in the Kennel Club books before exhibition {see Rule I (a) ). (o) Not duly transferred in the Kennel Club Books, before exhibition, where a change of ownership of a registered dog has taken place {see Rule i (c) ) . (p) Entered at a Show not in accordance with the Kennel Club Riiles. {q) Imported after the ist January, 1907, in contravention of the Regu- lations of the Ministry of Agrictilture and Fisheries issued under the Importation of Dogs Order for the time being in force. If a dog is entered in a class for which he is ineligible, and is not with- drawn from competition before the judging of the class in question is begun, the dog shall be disqualified, but all such cases must be reported by the Show Secretary to the Kennel Club, and the exhibitor may be fined at the discretion of the Committee of the Kennel Club, and, in addition to such penalty, the exhibitor is liable to be dealt with imder Rule 17. The owner of a dog disqualified for any of the above reasons is liable to forfeiture of all entry fees and prize money made in respect of or won by such dog at the Show or Shows in question. The Committee of the Kennel Club shall have power to atmul or remit all or any part of any disqualification under this Rule ; also to inflict fines not exceeding Five Shillings, in lieu of disqualification, upon exhibitors who shall have made errors in the entry forms which are, in the opinion of the Com- mittee of the Kennel Club, of a technical or clerical character. 14. Order of Merit when Dogs are Disqualified. — If a prizewinner be dis- quahfied in accordance with Rule 12, the dogs next in consecutive order of merit, if so placed by the Judge, and awarded not less than Reserve, shall be moved into the higher places in the Prize List, and such placings shall thereupon become the awards. 15. Delegation of Powers of the Committee of the Kennel Club. — There shall be no right of appeal to the Committee of the Kennel Club against the decision of a Delegated Authority acting under powers conferred by these Rules. But the Committee of the Kennel Club shall not delegate to any Sub- committee or to any other body other than the Executive Committee of the Scottish Kennel Club, the power to disqualify or suspend any person under Rules 16 or 17. 16. Disqualification of Persons Officiating, etc., at Unrecognized Shows. — Any person promoting, exhibiting, judging, or in any way officiating at an unrecognized Show shall, at the discretion of the Committee of the Kennel Club, be disqualified from judging, competing, winning a prize, making Appendix 373 an objection, or taking any part at a Show or Field Trial held under the permission of the Committee of the Kennel Club, or Delegated Authority. All dogs exhibited at any such Show shall be disqualified from competition at any recognized Show. Such disqualification shall also apply to all dogs registered in the name of, or owned by, any person disquaUfied under this Rule. The Committee of the Kennel Club shall have power to remove any dis- qualification under tliis Rule. 17. Suspension tor Discreditable Conduct, etc., or Default. — (i) Dis- QU.\I.IFICATION OR SUSPENSION FOR DISCREDITABLE CONDUCT, OR CONDUCT Injurious to all interested in Canine ^Matters. — If in the opinion of the Committee of the Kennel Club a person shall have been guilty of any dis- creditable conduct, or conduct which is injurious to all interested in canine matters in regard to a dog, or any matter whatsoever connected with or arising out of a Dog Show or Field Trial, or any matter relating to the same or to these Rules, they shall pass a resolution to that effect, and they shall have the power to suspend him from taking part in or having any connexion with any Show or Field Trial held bj' the permission of the Committee of the Kennel Club or Delegated Authority or attending the same. Any person proved to the satisfaction of the Committee of the Kennel Club to have knowingly employed any person suspended under this Rule, in any capacity whatsoever, in connexion with dogs, will be liable to be dealt with under this Rule. Such suspension shall disqualify from competition all dogs registered in his name and owned by him as from the date of the charge, on which he has been found guilty, being lodged at the Kennel Club, and for the period of such suspension. The Committee of the Kennel Club may, if they see fit, also disqualify such person for life from judging at, or taking any part in the management of, a Show or Field Trial held under permission of the Kennel Club or Delegated Authority. Any person disqualified or suspended from exhibiting is not eligible to become, or remain, a member of a Club registered at, or affiliated with, the Kennel Club during the period of such suspension. The Committee of the Kennel Club shaU have power to remove or modify any or either of such disqualifications. All complaints under this Clause, except those m.ade by the Committee of the Kennel Club or Delegated Authority, or the Committee of a Show or Field Trial, must be accompanied b)^ a deposit of 1,7., which may be wholly or partly awarded to the person or persons complained of, if the complaint be dismissed or dealt with as the Committee of the Keimel Club shall think fit. (2) Suspension of Def.\ulters, including Show Guarantors, Com- ^^TTEES AND PROMOTERS. — If in the opinion of the Committee of the Kennel Club a person shall have been proved to be in default m regard to any trans- action whatsoever connected with or arising out of a Dog Show or Field Trial, or any matter relating to the same, or to these Rules, they shall pass a resolution to that effect, and shall have the power to suspend him as under Clause (i), for such time as they deem fit, and also any dog or dogs of his, registered in his name, for a period of such suspension, as from the date of the charge being lodged at the Kennel Club. The Committee of the Kennel Club may, if they think fit, require a com- plaint under this Clause to be accompanied by a deposit of {jz, as under Clause I of this Rule, save only where the complaint is against Show Guarantors, Committees, or Promoters, for non-payment of prize money, or other prizes or monies. The Committee of the Keimel Club shall have power in any case under this Rule to publish the accoxmt of the same, together with the proceedings in respect thereof, in the official organ of the Kennel Club, viz. " The Kennel Gazette," together with his name, description and address, and further to publish the names of such disqualified or suspended persons, respectively 374 Appendix vinder Clauses (i ) and (2) of this Rule, in two separate " Black Lists," which they shall have power to forward to any person or persons concerned, as they may think fit. Should it be proved to the satisfaction of the Committee of the Kennel Club that any person suspended under this Rule has attended any Show or Shows during the period of suspension, such term of suspension may be increased. The Committee of the Kennel Club shall have power to remove any such disqualification or suspension. 18. Penalty for Infringement of the Rules of the Kennel Club by the Committees, Secretaries, or Managers of Shows.— The Committee of the Kennel Club shall have power to inflict a fine not exceeding £s on the Committee, Secretary, or Manager of a Sliow who may have broken the Rules and Regulations of the Kennel Club in the conduct of their Show. In the case of non-payment of any such fine, the guarantors may be held responsible. 19. The Committee of the Kennel Club may make Alterations to the Appendices to the Kennel Club Rules. — The Committee of the Kennel Club shall have power to make such alterations to the Appendices of the Kennel Club Rules, from time to time, as they may consider necessary and expedient. 20. The Committee of the Kennel Club the Final Court of Appeal. — The Committee of the Keunel Club shall be the final Court of Appeal or Umpire in all questions or disputes of any kind whatsoever (except where such powers are delegated by the Committee of the Kennel Club), arising out of any Show held by permission of the Committee of the Kennel Club or Delegated Authority. A person attending or entering a dog for such Show shall by such act be deemed to have agreed with the Committee of the Kennel Club, or Delegated Authority, to refer any such question or dispute to that Committee or Delegated Authority, as the case may be, under the provisions of the Arbitration Act, 1889, or any statutory modification thereof. APPENDIX I REGULATIONS FOR SHOWS HELD UNDER LICENCE OF THE COMMITTEE OF THE KENNEL Club, or Delegated Authority 1. Undertaking by Chairman, Treasurer, and Secretary of Show when sending Application for Licence. — The application for a Licence must be signed by the Chairman of the Committee of the Show, the Treasurer of the Show, and the Secretary of the Show, on the form provided by the Kennel Club ; but if Challenge Certificates are applied for, three additional members of the Show Committee must also sign the undertaking. The said above-mentioned officers of the Show must also give their full addresses in the space provided on the said form. The signing of such application form by the above-mentioned officers of the Show shall be construed as an under- taking by each of them, whereby they bind themselves jointly and severally to hold and conduct the Show under and in accordance with the Rules and Regulations of the Kennel Club, and to abide by and adopt any decision of the Committee of the Kennel Club, or any authority to whom the Committee of the Kennel Club may delegate its powers, dealing with or having reference to any matter or dispute arising out of or in connexion with the Show, and shall be taken as an agreement by them, and each of them, that any decision given against them, or any of them, imder Rules 16 or 17 of the Kennel Club Rules shall be communicated by the Secretary of the Kennel Club to the Secretaries of Dog Shows, Field Trials, and Societies affiliated with the Kennel Club, and shall also be published in the official organ of the Kennel Club — " The Kennel Gazette " — together with a report of the proceedings in the matter, and their name or names, addresses and descriptions. Any notice sent by registered post to any of the said above-mentioned officers of the Appendix 375 Show at the ;icklresscs yiveu by Ihcni ox\ tlic said ft)rui shall be deemed full and sufficieut notice ou the part of the Kennel Club to them, or any of them, of any proceedings, matters, or decision of the Committee of the Kennel Club, or any authority to whom the Committee of the Kennel Club may delegate its powers, or in regard to anything arising out of the said Licence, or having regard to the conduct of the said Show, or in respect of any other matter whatsoever arising out of or in connexion with the said Show. The Secretary of the Show, unless a meml)er of the Committee, will not be held responsible as a guarantor of the prize-money. The Secretary, Manager, and/or Comuiittee of a Show shall be responsible for the payment of any tines imposed (vide Kennel Club Rule i8). 2. OfiQcial Entry Form for Shows held under Kennel Club Rules the Only Form recognized. Only one Exhibitor may enter on one Form. Preservation of Entry Forms by Show Committees. — Entry Forms must be in accordance with the approved form naiued in Appendix III, and which must be issued by the Secretary of the Show, and all entries must be made thereon and not otherwise, and entirely in ink or indelible pencil ; only one exhibitor shall enter on one form. All such Entry Forms must be preserved by the Show Committee for at least twelve months from the last day of the Show. The Secretary of a Show must enclose at least one Registration and one Transfer Form with each copy of the Schedule issued if he is issuing the Kennel Club Rules as provided by Regulation 7 ; but if he is issuing the Kennel Club's Authorized Show Regulations in place of the Kennel Club Rules, the enclosing of rcgi.stration and transfer forms is not compulsory. 3. Particulars ol Entry and Names and Addresses of ail Exliibitors to be published in the Catalogue. — Full particulars of the entry of each exhibit, as given on the Entry F'orm by the Exhibitor, and the names and addresses of all Exhibitors, as given on their Entry F'orms, must be published in the Catalogue of the Show. 4. Entry for Exhibition. — Entries for a Show must close at the latest five clear days before the Show opens, and the day fixed may not be altered. In case of violation of this Rule, the Secretary, or Manager, or both, shall be held responsible, and may be dealt with under Rule 17. 5. Disinfection. — The Executive shall, before receiving any dog at a Show, cause all benches, pens and utensils to be properly and efficiently dis- infected, and must see that such disinfection is maintained during the Show, and to obtain a certificate from the Benching Contractors that this has been carried out, and must see that proper disinfection is maintained during the Show. 6. Isolation of Suspicious Cases. — The Executive of a Show shall pro- vide a suitable place in which dogs suspected of contagious disease can be properly isolated from the rest of the »Show. 7. Publication of Names of Guarantors and of the Kennel Club Rules and Regulations. — The names and addresses of the Guarantors of a Show must be printed on the outside front page of all Schedules and Cata- logues, except in the case of Shows where classes are provided for other ex- hibits as well as dogs, where the names and addresses need only be printed at the head of the Dog section. A copy of the Kennel Club Rules, together with Regulations attached thereto, as supplied by the Kennel Club, must be provided with or attached to every Schedule and Catalogue, unless the Kennel Club's authorized Show Regulations are substituted therefor. A copy of the Kennel Club Rules must be accessible at the Show to every exhibitor. 8. Free Passes must be supplied to Exhibitors ; Exliibits only to be allowed in Show. — (a) The Committee of a Show shall provide every ex- hibitor witli a free pass enabling him or her to enter the Show at any time during its continuance, but in the case of a dog owned in partnership only one such free pass need be issued by the Show Executive. 376 Appendix {b) No animal other thau au exhibit shall be allowed within the precincts of a Dog Show during its contuiuance. (c) Any exhibitor entering three or more dogs shall be allowed a Kennel- man's Pass, free. 9. Weighing Machines.. — Where any competition with a weight limit takes place, properly constructed weighing machines must be provided. 10. Necessary Documents to be forwarded and Information given to the Secretary of the Kennel Club. — The Secretary of a Show must forward the following documents to the Secretary of the Kennel Club, 84 Piccadilly, I(Ondon, W., within the time specified, as follows : (a) Two vSchedules of the Show as published, including an entry form, and any and all enclo.sures sent therewith to exhibitors, and within three days of their being published. {b) An Official Catalogue of the ShoAv, containing a full and correct list of all the entries made thereat, and all the awards correctly marked therein, within three days of the close of the Show. (f) Any Entry Forms called for by the Secretary of the Kennel Club, upon demand. (d) Any List of Suspended Persons, sent by the Secretary of the Kennel Club, must be returned immediately after the close of the Show, per registered post. {e) Any other documents and any information in connexion with any appeal or complaint must be forwarded to the Secretary of the Keunel Club, when requested by him. 11. FraudiUent or Discreditable Conduct at Shows to be reported. — The Executive of a Show must immediately report to the Committee of the Kennel Club any case of alleged fraudulent or discreditable conduct at or in connexion with the Show which may come under its notice, and at the same time forward to the Secretary of the Kennel Club all documents or information in connexion therewith which may be in its possession or power. Where alleged fraudulent or discreditable conduct takes place at a Show in Scotland, the Executive of the Show must make such report in the first instance to the Committee of the Scottish Kennel Club. Providing evidence is placed before the Committee of the Kennel Club that undue influence has been exercised by any person or that any improper means have been adopted to obtain, or interfere with, the appointment of a Judge at Shows under Kennel Club Rules, and the Committee of the Kennel Club con- sider the evidence warrants any inquiry, the Committee of the Kennel Club will call upon the Committees of such Shows to produce all correspondence or evidence in connexion with the case, and will on being convinced of mal- practice deal with the offenders under Kennel Club Rule 17. APPENDIX II REGtn,ATIONS AS TO THE PREPARATION OF DOGS FOR EXHIBITION A dog shall be disqualified from winning a prize or from receiving one if awarded at any Show held under Kennel Club Rules (save and except in such cases as are specified hereimder under the head " exceptions ") if it be proved to the Committee of the Show or the Committee of the Kennel Club, as the case may be : 1. That any dye, colouring, darkening, bleaching, or other matter has been in any way used for the purpose of altering or improving the colour or markiiigs of a dog. 2. That any preparation, chemical or otherwise, has been used for the purpose of altering or improving the texture of the coat. Note. — The coat may be cleaned by use of some dry substance such as boric acid powder used solely for cleansing purposes, but on no account must any of such substance be allowed to remain in the coat at the time of exhibition. Appendix 377 3. That any oil, j;reasy or sticky substaucc has bccu used and remains iu the coat during time of exhibition. 4. That any part of a dog's coat or hair has been cut, clipped, singed or raspel down by any substance, or that the new or fast coat has been removed by any means except in tlie following breeds : — Bedlington Terriers, liuU- terriers, Collfes, Fox-terriers OVire and Smooth), Pomeranians, Poodles, Retrievers (Curly-Coated) and Yorkshire Terriers. Note. — The old or shedding coat and loose hairs may be removed in all breeds. No comb must be used that has a cutting or rasping edge. 5. That any cutting, piercing, breaking by force, or any kind of opera- tion or act which destroys tissues of the ears, or alters their natural formation or carriage, or shortens the tail, or alters the natural fonnation of the dog, or any part thereof, has been practised, or any other thing has been done cal- culated in tlie opinion of the Committee of the Keimel Club, to deceive, except in cases of necessary operation certified to the satisfaction of the Com- mittee of the Keimel Club. That the lining membrane of the mouth has been cut or mutilated in any way. Exceptions 1. Shortening the tails of dogs of the following breeds will not render them liable to disquahfication : Spaniels (except Irish Water), Airedale Terriers, Fox-terriers, Irish Terriers. Sealyham Terriers, Welsh Terriers, Old English Sheepdogs, Poodles, Toy Spaniels, Yorkshire Terriers, Schipperkes, Griffon Bruxellois, and such other breeds as the Committee may from time to time determine. 2. Dew-claws may be removed in any breed. APPENDIX III The foi,i,owing Regui,ations and Forms, which are Copyright, can be OBTAINED ON APPUCATION TO THE SECRETARY OF THE KENNEt CLUB, 84 PlCCADII,I,Y, LONDON, W., OR THE SECRETARY OF THE SCOTTISH Kennei, CIvUb, 59 George Street, Edinburgh Regulations Regulations with regard to Classes which are eligible for Free Entry in the Kennel Club Stud Book. Regulations governing the issue of Challenge Certificates. Forms Registration, Registration Inquiry, Re-registration, Prefix, Cancellation of Name, Change of Name, Show Entry, Stud Book Entry, Transfer, Stud \'isit. Loan of Bitch, Produce, Registration of Assimxed Name. Registration of Title and Application to hold a Show. INDEX ABC Guide to canine ailments, 325 et seq. Aberdeen Terrier {see Scottish Ter- rier) Acclimatized Toy Dogs, the Pug, 295 ; the Pomeranian, 298 ; the Maltese, 301 ; Brussels Griffon, 304 Airedale Terrier, 205, 207 ; intelli- gence of, 5 ; question of classi- fication of, 227 ; as otter-hunter, 228 ; Club standard and scale of points, 229-230 Alan dog, 57 Alano, the, 61 Alaunt dog, 57 Alsatian Wolfdog, 5, iig et seq. ; points of, 123 Atavism, phenomenon of, in breed- ing, 284 B Badger-baiting, laws relative to, 43 " Badger-dog " {see Dachshund) Bandog, 57 Barbet, French, ancestor of modern Poodle, 179 Basset-hound, 193 et seq. ; Sir J. Millais's description of a perfect, 195 Beagles, hunting powers of, 157 ; noted packs of, 158 ; descrip- tion of, 158 Bearded Collie, Scottish, 108 Bedlington Terrier, 207, 231 ; breed- ing of, 232-3 ; standard of points of, 232 Belgian Sheepdogs, 118 Belgium, dogs as beasts of burden in, 95 " Beware of the Dog." the law in relation to notices, 44 Bingley Terriers, 205, 228 Bitch in whelp, the, 36 Black-and-tan King Charles Spaniel, 288 ; points of, 290 ; treatment of puppies, 293 Black-and-tan (or Gordon) Setters, 166-7 Black-and-tan Terrier, 56, 211 et seq. ; crop ears, 212 ; standard of points of, 212 ; Miniature, 314 Black Pug, the, 297 Blenheim Spaniel, as sporting dog, 289 ; points of, 290 Bloodhound, 6, 127 ; as tracker, 127 ; points of, 130 ; puppies, 131 Blue Belton, the, 163 Boar-hunting dog {see Great Dane) Bordeaux, Dogue de, 62 Border Terrier, 207, 249, 250 ; points of, 251, 252 Borzoi, 55, 141 ; use of, 141 ; points of, 1 42 ; treatment of puppies, 144 Bouledogue Franyais, 56, 309 Boxer, the, 119 Breed, choice of a, 4 Breeding and Whelping, discrimina- tion in, 31 ; inbreeding and out- crossing, 32 ; the brood bitch, 33 ; the stud dog, 35 ; the bitch in whelp, 36 ; partvirition, 37 ; rearing puppies, 39 ; tail-dock- ing, 40 ; worms, 42 ; prevention of breeding, 329 British dogs, native, 55 ; the Mastiff, 57 ; the Bulldog, 62 Brood bitch, the, 33 Brussels Griffon, 55, 304 et seq. ; treatment of puppies, 305 ; descriptive particulars of, 307 Bull-baiting, 43, 58, 62, 63 378 Index 379 Bulldogs, 6, 14, 56, 62 et seq. ; docility of, 6, 71 ; treatment of puppies, 14, 69, 70 ; use of, in bull-baiting, 63 ; strains of, 64 ; description and points of per- fect, 65 et seq. ; breeding of, 69 ; Miniature, 308 Bull-Mastiff, 4 Bull-terrier, 6, 56, 207, 213 et seq., 245 ; as fighting dog, 213 ; Hinks's strain of, 214 ; cropped ears. 215 ; Club description of. 216; Toy, 315-316 Cairn Terriers, 205, 207, 249, 263, 264, 268 et seq. ; description and scale of points, 270, 271 Canada, Northern, dogs used for traction in, 96 Canine ailments, ABC guide to, 325 et seq. Canine medicine and surgery, 317 c< seq. Carriage of dogs, 48 Chien de Beauce, 118 Chien de Berger d'Alsace, 119. [See also Alsatian Wolfdog) Chien de la Brie, 118 Chinese dogs {see Pekingese and Chow) Choice of a breed, 4 el seq. Chow Chow, 99 et seq. ; points of, 100 Classification and the value of points, 56 Clumber Spaniel, 6, 179 et seq. ; points of, 181 ; field trials, 181 Clydesdale Terrier, the, 56, 207, 275 ct seq. ; description of, 275 ; puppies, 276 " Coach Dog " (see Dalmatian) Cocker Spaniel, 6, 188 et seq. ; par- ticulars of breed, 191 Collie-Greyhound, 4 Collies, 56, 106 ; the working, 107 ; bearded (or Highland), 108 ; the show^, 109 ; description of per- fect, HI Continental Sheepdogs, 118 Coursing and Hunting Dogs, the Greyhound, 146 ; the Whippet, 150 ; the Foxhound, 153 ; Harriers, 156; Beagles, 157 Couteulx Basset, 193 Cowley Terrier, 206 Curly-coated Retriever, 171 ; de- scription of, 172 Dachshund, 55 ; as badger hunter, 196 ; origin of, 197 ; varieties of. 199 ; points of, 199 Dalmatian, 56 ; as coach-dog, 85 ; puppies, 87 ; points of, 87-8 Dandie Dinmont Terrier, 132, 207, 253 ; assistant to Otterhound, 253-4 '• early breeders of, 254 ; standard of points of, 255 Deerhonnd, 134, 136; origin of, 137 ; use of, 138 ; points of, 139 Deerstalking, 137 " Deutsche Dogge," 81 Disease, diagnosis of, 320 et seq. ; prevention of, 319 Distemper, 72, 130 ; causes of, 10, 335 ; symptoms, 336 ; com- plications, 337 ; treatment, 337 Dobermann Pinschers, 119 Dog bites and dog fights, 44 Dog-breeding, 31 e< seq. Dog, choice of a, 3 ; the maligned Mongrel, 3 ; choice of a breed, 4 ; fashion in, 6 ; commercial value of, 7 ; how to know and buy a good, 8 Dog-fighting contests, prohibition of. 43. 63 Dog-licences, 43 Dog-stealing, punishment for, 45, 279 Dog, the, and his owner, 3 et seq. ; status of, legal and social, 43 et seq. Dog, the, care of : the house-dog, 1 1 ; food of house-dog, 1 2 ; feeding toy-dog, 13 ; the yard- dog, 14 ; kennels and kennelling, 15 ; food in the kennels, i8 ; ex- ercise, 19 ; material needs, 19 • training, 20; house-training, 22; 38o Inde X washing and grooming, 25 ; show preparation, 27 ; dog showing, 28 Dogue de Bordeaux, 62 Draught dogs, 94 ; Eskimo, 96 ; Huskies, 97 ; Samoyed, 97 " Dutch Pug," the, 295 Dutch Sheepdog, 118 Ear-cropping declared illegal, 209 212, 215 Elkhound, the, 145 Elterwater Terrier, 206 English Pointer, 160; essential points of, 162 English Setters, 163 et seq. ; points of, 164 English Springer, the, 1S6 ; points of, 187 English Terriers, 207, 208 et seq. English Water Spaniel, 179 Eskimo dogs, 96 Essex Beagle, 158 Exercise, necessity of, for dogs, 19 etseq., 131, 151, 319 Field Spaniel, the, 184 et seq. ; points of, 185, 186 " First bite," privileges of, 44 Flanders, wage-earning dogs in, 95 Fleas in kennels, 17 ; how to treat dogs infested with, 25, 319 Food and the dog's health, 319 Food in the kennels, 18 Foods for sick dogs, 344 Forest laws, early, 43, 57 Foxhounds, 153 ; twelve best, 155 ; detailed description of, 155 Fox-terriers, 203, 207 smooth, 216 et seq. ; celebrated kennels, 217, 219; points of 218 wire-haired, 223 et seq. ; question of size, 226 France, dogs as beasts of burden in, 95 French Barbet, ancestor of modern Poodle, 179 French Basset, 193 French Bulldog, the, 14, 308 et seq. \ treatment of puppies, 14, 70, 310 ; description of, 309 French Pointer, 159 French Sheepdogs, 115, n8 German Boxer, 119 German Pointer, 159 German Sheepdogs, 119 German Teckel, 119 (see Dachshund) Glossary of technical terms, xi etseq. Golden Retriever, 172-3 Gordon Setters, 166-7 Great Dane, 55 ; origin of, 81 ; treatment of puppies, 82 ; char- acteristics of, 82 ; ofl&cial de- scription of, 83 Greyhound, history of, 146 ; the Waterloo Cup, 147 ; size and weight of, 147-8 ; standard for judging, 149 ; Italian, 315 Griffon Basset, 193 Griffon Beige, 306 Griffon Braban9on, 306 Griffon Bruxellois, 304, 306 Groeneudael, the, 118 Gun dogs, the Pointer, 159 ; the Setters, 162 ; the English Set- ters, 163 ; the Irish Setter, 165 '< the Black-and-tan Setter, 166 ; Retrievers, 167 ; the Labrador, 173; Sporting Spaniels, 176 Gun-shyness, 169 H Half-breed dogs, 4 Happa dog, the, 280, 295 Plarriers, 156-7 ; Xenophon's pack of, 156 ; treatment of puppies, 157 Hatzriide, 8r Highland Collie, 108 Highland Deerhound, 134, 136 c* seq. Holland, dogs as beasts of burden in, 95 Hounds and other large Sport- ing Breeds, the Bloodhound, 127 ; the Otterhound, 131 ; the Index 381 Irish Wolfbuund, 134 ; the Deerhouud, 136 ; the Borzoi, 141 ; the Elkhouud, 145 House-dog, II ct seq. ; treatment of puppies, I z House- training of puppies, 22 Hudson Bay, dogs of, 96 Hungarian Sheepdog, 118 " Huskies." the, 96 I Importation of dogs, the law and, 47 Inbreeding and outcrossing, 32 Irish Setters, 165-6 Irish Terriers, 204, 207 ; merits of, 234 ; size and colour, 236 ; official description of, 237 Irish Water Spaniel, 177 ; points of, 178 Irish Wolfhound, 134, 137 ; points of, 136 Italian Greyhounds, 315 ; points of, 316 J " Jack Russell " Terrier, 205, 244 Japanese Chin Club, formation of, 288 Japanese Spaniel, origin of, 286 ; treatment of puppies, 287 ; official standard for, 288 K Kennel Club, foundation of, 49 ; rules of, 27, 209, 365 et seq. Kennel Gazette, founding of, 49 Kennels (and kennelling), 15 ; fleas in the, 17 ; food in the, 18 Kerry Blue Terrier, 239-40 King Charles Spaniel, 56, 280, 288 ; name of, 2S8 ; recognized vari- eties of breed, 2S9 ; points of, 290 ; treatment of puppies, 293 Komondor, the, 118 I,abrador, the, 5 ; as sporting dog, 173 ; celebrated kennels, 174 I,adies' Kcuncl Association, estab- lishincut of, 50 I^aika, the, 298 L,aue Basset, 193 I,arceny Act, the, and dog-stealing, 45 Laverack, the, 1G3 Ivaw and the dog, 20, 43 et seq., 95 I^ice, treatment for, 347 Licences, law relative to, 43 Little Dane, the, 85 Loudon and Provincial Pug Club formation of, 296 Long-haired Terriers {see Clydesdale, Yorkshire and Skye) Lurcher, the, 4 Luxury dogs, little, 277 ; Pekingese, 279 ; Japanese, 286 ; King Charles Spaniels, 2SS M Maltese Dog, 55, 301 ; origin of, 301 ; care of, 303 ; standard description of, 303 Manchester Terrier, 209, 211 Maremmes, Sheepdog of the, 118 Marlborough Blenheims, 289 et seq Mastiff, the, 56 ; as hunting dog, 57 ; points of, 59 ; treatment of puppies, 61 ; other types of, 61 Medicines, administration of, 323 et seq. Memory of dogs, 24 Miniature breeds, 308 ; Bulldogs, 308 ; Yorkshire Terrier, 310 ; Toy Poodle, 314 ; Black-and- tan, 314 ; Bull-terriers, 315 ; Italian Greyhounds, 315 Molossus dog, 57 Mongrel, the, 3, 4 Motor-cars and dogs, 47 Muzzling orders, 45 N National Coursing Club, establisti- meut of, 147 Native British dogs, the, 55 ; ac- climatized aliens and British breeds, 55 ; classification and the value of points, 56 ; the 382 Inde: Mastiff. 57, 6i ; the Bulldog, 62, 64 Newfoundland, the, 76 et seq. ; points of, 78 ; treatment of puppies, 80 Non-sporting and utility breeds, 55 et seq. Non-sporting breeds, the larger, 72 et seq. ; the St. Bernard, 72 ; the Newfoundland, 76 ; the Great Dane, 81 ; the Dalmatian, 85 Notices (Warning) as to dogs, 44 Old English Sheepdog, 5, 56, 114 ; tail-docking, 115 ; puppies, 115; points of, 116 Omnibuses, dogs in, 48 Oriental Toy Dogs, 279 et seq. Original Working Terrier, the, 203 et seq. Otterhound, the, 131 ; notable packs of, 132, 241 ; the perfect, 133 Otter-hunting, 133, 228, 251 Outcrossing and inbreeding, 32 Owtchar, Russian Sheepdog, 115 Parasites {see Fleas, Lice, Worms) Pariah dogs, immunity from dis- ease, 12 Parturition, 37 Pastoral dogs, Shepherds' Dogs, 105 ; Collies, 106 ; Working Collies, 107 ; the Show Collie, 109 ; Shetland Sheepdogs, 112 ; the Old English Sheepdog, 114 ; Continental Sheepdogs, 118 ; the Alsatian Wolf dog, 119 " Peking spaniels," 280 Pekingese, the, 55, 279 ; treatment of puppies, 14, 285, 286; scale of points of, 284, 285 Peterborough, hound shows at, 15C Pinscher, Dobermann, 119 Pittenweem Terrier, 206 Pointer, the, origin of, 159 ; field trials for, lOo ; development of English, 161 ; essential points of, 162 ; as retriever, 167 Points, value of, 56 Poisons and their antidotes, 353 et seq. Polar exploration, selection of dogs for, 97 Poltalloch Terriers, 206, 258 Pomeranian, the, 55, 298 et seq. ; treatment of puppies, 14 ; stan- dard of points of, 299 Poodle, the, treatment of puppies, I4f 91. 92 ; characteristics of, 89 ; origin of, 90 ; corded variety, 90 ; curly, 92 ; points of, 93 ; the Toy, 314 Prince Charles Spaniel, 290 ; points of, 290 Pug, the, 280 ; origin of, 295 ; varieties of, 296 ; Black, 297 Punishment of dogs, hints on, 22 et seq. Puppies, house-training of, 22 ; rear- ing of, 39 ; tail-docking of, 40 ; prevention of disease in, 319 Puppies, treatment of : House dog, 12 ; Toy dog, 13 ; French Bull- dog, 14, 70, 310 ; Schipperke, 14 ; Poodle, 14, 91, 92 ; Pom- eranian, 14 ; Pekingese, 14, 285, 286 ; Mastiff, 61 ; Bulldog, 14, 69. 70. 310 ; Newfoundland, 80 ; Great Dane. 82 ; Blood- hound, 131 ; Borzoi, 144 ; Harrier, 157 ; Japanese Spaniel, 287 ; King Charles Spaniel, 293 ; Brussels Griffon, 305 Pyrenean Dog, 62, 72 Quarantine for dogs, 47 Remedies, simple, for sick dogs, 322 Retriever-Collie, 4 Retrievers, the, 167 ; flat-coated, 168; as sporting dogs, 168, 1 73 ; description of perfect, 170; curly-coated, 171-2; Golden, 172 ; Labrador, 173 et seq. Index 383 Roseiieath Terrier, 206 Rottweiler Metzgerhund, 81 Ruby Spaniel, the, 290 Rules, Kennel Club, 27, 209, 365 et seq. Russian Pointer, 159 Russian Retriever, 172 Russian Sheepdog (Owtchar). 115 Russian Wolfhound, 141 St. Bernard, the, 72 ; use of, 72 ; description of, 75 Samoyed, the, 55, 97 et seq. ; stan- dard for, 98 Sauf anger, the, 81 Schipperke, 14, loi ; points of, 102 Scottish bearded Collie, 108 Scottish Deerhound, 134 Scottish Sheepdog, 115 Scottish Terrier, the, 132, 204, 207 ; as show dog, 263 ; known as Aberdeen Terrier, 264 ; points of, 265 ; special faults and scale of points, 266 Sealyham Terrier, 205, 207, 244 ; as sporting dog, 245 ; points of, 246 Setters, 6, 162 ; English, 163 ; points of English, 164 ; Irish, 165 ; Black-and-tan (Gordon), 166 Sheepdogs, Shetland, 112 et seq. ; Old English, 114 e/ seq. ; Rus- sian, 115 ; Continental, 118 e/ seq. ; Alsatian, 119 et seq. Shetland Sheepdogs, 112 Show preparation of dogs, 27 Sickly dogs, treatment of, 19, 322, 344 Skin diseases, frequency of, and treatment, 322, 357 et seq. Skye Terrier, the, 207, 249, 254, 272 et seq. ; points of, 275 Slughi, Arabian, 146 ; progenitor of Greyhound, 146 ; description of, 149 Smooth Fox-terrier, the, 216 et seq. ; standard of points, 218 Smooth-haired Terriers, 203, 207 Snap-dog {see Whippet) South of England Airedale Terrier Club, formation of, 229 Southern Hound, the, 131 Spaniel family, the, 176 Spaniel, the, 5, 6, 168, 176 ; Irish Water, 177 ; English Water, 179; Clumber, 179; Sussex, 181 ; Field, 184 ; English Springer, 186 ; Welsh Springer, 187 ; Cocker. 188 Spanish Pointer, 159 Sporting breeds, the larger, 127 et seq. ; the smaller, 193 et seq. Sporting Spaniel, the, 176 et seq. Springer, the, as retriever, 167 ; English, 186; Welsh. 187 Stray dogs, the law and, 46 Stud dog, the, 35 Sussex Spaniel, the, 6. 181 et seq. ; description of breed. 183 Tail-docking of puppies. 40 Technical terms. Glossary of, xi et seq. Teckel, German. 119 Teeth of dogs, cleaning, 25 Terriers, 6, 203 ; treatment of puppies, 204 ; White English, 208 ; Black-and-tan, 211 ; Bull, 213 ; Smooth Fox, 216 ; Wire- haired Fox, 223 ; Airedale, 227 ; Bedlington, 231 ; Irish, 234*; Kerry Blue, 239 ; Welsh, 240 ; Sealyham, 244 ; Border, 250 ; Dandie Dinmont, 253 ; West Highland White. 257 ; Scottish. 263 ; Cairn, 268 ; Skye, 272 ; Clydesdale, 275 Tibet dogs, 62, 280 Tie-dog, 57 Toonie dog, 112 Toy Bull-terriers, 315 Toy Dogs, treatment of Toy pup- pies. 13 ; acclimatized, 295 et seq., 314. 315 ; Oriental, 279 et seq. Toy Poodle, the, 314 Toy Spaniels, 291 et seq. Toy White Poodles, 93 384 Inde X Training the dog, ii, 20 Trains, dogs in, 48 Tcavelling boxes, 30 Tricolour (or Prince Charles) Spaniel, 290 Turnspit, the, 197 U Ulmer Dogge, 81 Utility Dogs, the Poodle, 89 ; draught dogs, 94 ; the Eskimo, 96 ; the Samoyed, 97 ; the Chow Chow, 99 ; the Schip- perke, loi Ventilation, importance of, 319 W Washing and grooming of dogs, 25, 312 Watch-dogs, 5 Waterloo Cup, establishment and history of the, 147 Water Spaniels, 177, 179 Waterside Terrier, 205, 228 Welsh Springer, the, 187 ; points of, 188 Welsh Terrier, the, 204, 207, 240 ; colour of, 240 ; coat of, 241 ; origin of, 241 ; standard of perfection of, 243 West Highland White Terrier, 205, 206, 207, 249, 254, 257 ; at Poltalloch, 258 ; coat of, 258 ; sporting abilities of, 259 ; stan- dard of points, 260 Whelping, hints on, 36 et seq. Wliippet racing, 150 Whippet, the, 150, 210 ; training of, 150, 151 ; standard of points, 152 White English Terriers, 208 ; points of, 210 White Scottish Terrier, 205, 207 Wire Fox-terrier Association, form- ation of, 226 Wire-haired Black-and-tan Terrier, 205, 207 Wire-haired Fox-terrier, the, 203, 207, 223 et seq. Wolf as progenitor of domestic dog, 3. 12, 24 Wolfdogs, 5, 105 ; Alsatian, 119 Wolfhound, the Irish, history of, 134 et seq. ; description of, 136 Wolf-spitz, the, 298 Working Terrier, the original, 203 et seq. Worms, danger of, in puppies, 42 ; in Pekingese dogs, 286 ; lia- bility of dogs to, and treatment for, 361 et seq. X Xenophon, his pack of harriers, 156 Yard-dog, 14 Yorkshire Terrier, 56, 207, 310 ; origin of, 310 ; coat of, 311 ; treatment of, 311 ; standard of points, 313 Pkimtbo in Enclakd bt Cassell & Company, Luiitko, London, E.C.4. F.30.I32t University of British Columbia Library DUE DATE pep 0 R ^070 f^p' . I r. 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